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Title: Discoveries in Australia, Volume 2

Author: John Lort Stokes

Release date: April 1, 2004 [eBook #12146]
Most recently updated: December 14, 2020

Language: English

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/12146

Credits: Produced by Sue Asscher

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DISCOVERIES
IN AUSTRALIA, VOLUME 2 ***

DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA;
WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE

COASTS AND RIVERS

EXPLORED AND SURVEYED DURING THE

VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BEAGLE,

IN THE YEARS 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43.

BY

COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE
ADMIRALTY.

ALSO

A NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY'S VISITS

TO THE

ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA.

BY

J. LORT STOKES,

COMMANDER, R.N.

VOLUME 2.

LONDON: T. AND W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET.

1846.

MESSRS. FITZMAURICE AND KEYS DANCING FOR THEIR
LIVES.
L.R. Fitzmaurice, del.
London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.

CONTENTS OF VOLUME 2.

CHAPTER 2.1.

Leave Port Essington.
Clarence Strait.
Hope Inlet.
Shoal Bay.
Ian for Observations.
Explore a new Opening.
Talc Head.

Port Darwin.
Continue Exploration.
Mosquitoes and Sandflies.
Nature of the Country.
Its parched appearance.
Large ant's nest.
Return to Shoal Bay.
Visit from the Natives.
Remarks.
Their teeth perfect.
Rite of Circumcision.
Observations on the Migrations of the Natives.
Theory of an Inland Sea.
Central Desert.
Salt water drunk by Natives.
Modes of procuring water.
Survey the harbour.
Natives on a raft.
Anecdote.
Bynoe Harbour.
Well.
Brilliant Meteors.
Natives on Point Emery.
Their surprise at the well.
Importance of water.
Anecdote.
Languages of Australia.
Specimens.
Remarks.
Leave Port Darwin.
Tides.
Squall.
Visit Port Patterson.
Leave.
Examine opening to the south-west.
Table Hill.
McAdam Range.
Adventure with an Alligator.

Exploring party.
Discovery of the Victoria.
Ascend the river.
Appearance of the Country.
Fitzmaurice River.
Indian Hill.
The Beagle taken up the river.

CHAPTER 2.2.

Exploration of the Victoria.
First appearance of Sea Range.
Curiosity Peak.
Appearance of Country from.
Whirlwind Plains.
Encounter with an Alligator.
His capture and description.
Cross Whirlwind Plains.
White and black ducks.
Kangaroos.
Enter hilly country.
Meet the boats.
Thunderstorm.
Carry boats over shoals.
New birds.
Reach Hopeless.
Progress of boats arrested.
Reconnoitre the river.
Prospect from View Hill.
Preparation for pedestrian excursion.
Leave Reach Hopeless to explore the upper part of the river.
Native village.
Squall.
Mussel Bend.
Meet Natives.
Successful fishing.
Party distressed.

Thirsty Flat.
Tortoise Reach.
Singular appearance of the ranges.
Effect of the great heat.
One man knocked up.
Approach of natives.
Preparation for defence.
Appearance of the natives.
Move further up the river.
Emu Plains.
Select position for night quarters.
Upward course of the Victoria.
Commence return.
Kangaroo shot.
Wickham Heights.
New Tortoise.
Lucky Valley.
Race was with a native.
Meet his tribe.
They make off.
Hard day's work.
Quarters for the night.
Return to Reach Hopeless.

CHAPTER 2.3. VICTORIA RIVER.

Proceed down the river from Reach Hopeless.
Meet watering party.
One of the men deserts.
Kangaroo shooting.
The writer left to complete survey of river.
Silk cotton-tree.
Fertility of Whirlwind Plains.
Attempt of one of the crew to jump overboard.
Reach the Ship.
Suffer from sore eyes.
Lieutenant Emery finds water.

Geological specimens.
Bird's Playhouse.
Tides.
Strange weather.
Range of Barometer.
Accounted for by proximity of Port Essington.
Hurricane.
Effects of the latter.
Dreary country behind Water Valley.
Fruitless attempt to weigh ship's anchors.
Obliged to slip from both of them.
Proceed down the river.
Complete survey of Main Channel.
Visit south Entrance Point of river.
Discover a number of dead turtles.
Cross over to Point Pearce.
Mr. Bynoe shoots a new finch.
The Author speared.
Pursued by natives.
Escape.
Flight of natives.
Armed party pursue them.
Night of suffering.
General description of the Victoria.
Gouty-stem tree and fruit.

CHAPTER 2.4. VICTORIA RIVER TO SWAN RIVER.

Leave Point Pearce.
Error in position of Cape Rulhieres.
Obtain soundings on supposed Sahul Shoal.
Discover a shoal patch on it.
Ascertain extent of bank of soundings off the Australian shore.
Strange winds in Monsoon.
See Scott's Reef.
Discover error in its position.
Make Depuch Island.

Prevalence of westerly winds near it.
Sperm whales.
Tedious passage.
Death and burial of the ship's cook.
Anecdotes of his life.
Good landfall.
Arrival at Swan River.
Find Colony improved.
Hospitality of Colonists.
Lieutenant Roe's account of his rescuing Captain Grey's party.
Burial of Mr. Smith.
Hurricane at Shark's Bay.
Observations on dry appearance of Upper Swan.
Unsuccessful cruise of Champion.
Visit Rottnest.
Fix on a hill for the site of a Lighthouse.
Aboriginal convicts.
Protectors of natives.
American whalers.
Miago.
Trees of Western Australia.
On the safety of Gage Roads.

CHAPTER 2.5.

Sail from Swan River.
Search for the supposed Turtle-dove Shoal.
Approach to Houtman's Abrolhos.
Find an anchorage.
View of the Lagoon.
Guano.
Remnants of the wreck of the Batavia.
Pelsart Group.
Visit the Main.
Geelvink Channel.
Enter Champion Bay.
Appearance of the Country.

Striking resemblance of various portions of the coast of Australia.
Leave Champion Bay.
Coast to the northward.
Resume our examination of the Abrolhos.
Easter Group.
Good Friday Harbour.
Lizards on Rat Island.
Coral formation.
Snapper Bank.
Zeewyk Passage.
Discoveries on Gun Island.
The Mangrove Islets.
Singular Sunset.
Heavy gale.
Wallaby Islands.
Flag Hill.
Slaughter Point.
Observations of Mr. Bynoe on the Marsupiata.
General character of the reefs.
Tidal observations.
Visit North Island.
Leave Houtman's Abrolhos.
General observations.
Proceed to Depuch Island.
Drawings on the rocks.
Native youth.
New bird and kangaroo.
Effects of Mirage.
Examine coast to the Turtle Isles.
Geographe Shoals.
Number of turtles.
Bedout Island.
Scott's Reef.
Approach to Timor.
Pulo Douw.
Scene on entering Coepang Bay.
Surprise of Swan River native.
Visit to the Resident.

His stories.
Fort Concordia.
Second visit to the Resident.
The Timorees.
Arrive at Pritie.
Description of the country.
Muster of the shooting party.
Success of the excursion.
The Javanese Commandant.
Character of the Timorees.
Dutch settlement in New Guinea.
Leave Coepang.
Island of Rottee.
Tykal Inlet.
Inhabitants of Polo Douw.

CHAPTER 2.6.

Sail from Rottee.
Search for shoal.
Dampier's Archipelago.
Examination of coast.
Strange weather.
Natives.
Passage between Delambre and Huiy Islands.
Proceed to Montebello Isles.
Description of them.
Barrow's Island.
Tryal Rocks.
New kangaroo.
Abundance of turtle.
New wallaby.
Sail for Swan River.
Find Ritchie's Reef.
Islands between Barrow's and North-West Cape.
Table of soundings.
Swan River Native.

Anchor under Rottnest.
Vocabulary.
Erect beacons.
Bad weather.
Habits of a native dog.
Geological observations.
Sail from Swan River.
Error in position of Cape Naturaliste.
King George's Sound.
Appearance of Bald Head.
Princess Royal Harbour.
Origin of settlement.
Town of Albany.
Salubrity of climate.
Excursion into interior.
Course a kangaroo.
Pitfalls.
Herds of kangaroos.
Rich country.
The Hay River.
Return to Albany.
Departure for South Australia.
Discover an Island.
Death of a seaman.
Position of Neptune Isles.
Kangaroo, Althorp and Quoin Islands.
Holdfast Road.
Adelaide.
Description of country.
Governor Gawler's policy.
Visit the Port.
Mr. Eyre's expedition.
Hardships of Overlanders.
Cannibalism.
Meet Captain Sturt.
Native schools.
System of education.
Sail for Sydney.

Squalls.
Error in coast.
Bass Strait.
Arrive at Sydney.

CHAPTER 2.7.

Land Sales.
Unsettled boundaries.
New Zealand.
Hunter River.
Midnight alarm.
Ludicrous scene.
Changes in Officers of ship.
Leave Sydney.
Port Stephens.
Corrobory.
Gale at Cape Upstart.
Magnetical Island.
Halifax Bay.
Astonish a Native.
Description of country.
Correct chart.
Restoration Island.
Picturesque arrival.
Interview with the Natives from Torres Strait.
Their weapons.
Shoal near Endeavour River.
Discover good passage through Endeavour Strait.
Booby Island.
New birds.
The Painted Quail.

CHAPTER 2.8. GULF OF CARPENTARIA.

Leave Booby Island.
Eastern shore of Gulf.

Van Diemen's Inlet.
Exploration of.
Party of Natives.
Level country.
Tides.
Visit Bountiful Islands.
Description of them.
Sail for Sweers Island.
Investigator Road.
Natives.
Locusts.
Record of the Investigator's visit.
Dig a well.
Boats explore island and coast to the westward.
Sweers and Bentinck Islands.
Tides.
Take ship over to the main.
Another boat expedition leaves.
Ship proceeds to the head of the Gulf.
Discovery and exploration of Disaster Inlet.
Narrow escape.
Description of Interior.
Wild Fowl.
Explore coast to the eastward.
Inlets.
Discover the Flinders.
The Cuckoo.
Ascent of the river.
Night scene.
Burial tree.
Remarks.
Return to the ship.
Exploration of south-western part of Gulf.
Large inlets discovered.

CHAPTER 2.9. GULF OF CARPENTARIA.

Boat expedition.
Explore an opening.
Discovery of the Albert.
Natives.
Picturesque Scenery.
Hope Reach.
Birds and Fishes.
Upper Branch.
Beauty of the Landscape.
Land excursion.
The Plains of Promise.
Halt the party and proceed alone.
Description of the country.
Return down the Albert.
Mouth of River.
Arrive at Van Diemen's Inlet.
Find Mr. Fitzmaurice severely wounded.
General result of the survey of the Gulf.
Winds and Temperature.
Booby Island.
Endeavour Strait.
Reach Port Essington.

CHAPTER 2.10. INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO.

Leave Port Essington.
Dobbo Island.
Visit from the Schoolmaster.
Church.
Trade of the Arrou Islands.
Their productions.
Visit from Natives.
The Banda Group.
Penal Settlement.
Adventures of a Javanese.
Captain de Stuers.
Native dance and sports.

Nutmeg Plantations.
Mode of preserving the fruit.
Amboyna.
Visit a natural grotto.
Sail from Amboyna.
Island of Kissa.
Village of Wauriti.
Missionary establishment.
Serwatty Group.
Return to Port Essington.

CHAPTER 2.11. PORT ESSINGTON AND THE NORTH-WEST
COAST.

Appearance of Settlement.
Effects of climate.
Native mother.
Trade in teeth.
Macassar Proas.
Lieutenant Vallack visits the Alligator Rivers.
Interview with Natives.
Prospects of Port Essington.
Lieutenant Stewart's Route.
Climate.
Remarks of Mr. Bynoe.
Harbour of refuge.
Sail from Port Essington.
Sahul Shoal.
Arrive at Coepang.
Timorees.
Sail for North-west Coast.
Strong winds.
Cape Bossut.
Exploration of North-west Coast.
View of Interior.
Birds.
Solitary Island.

Visit the Shore.
Amphinome Shoals.
Bedout Island.
Breaker Inlet.
Exmouth Gulf.
Arrive at Swan River.

CHAPTER 2.12.

Reported Harbour.
Set out for Australind.
The Grass-tree.
Correspondence with Mr. Clifton, etc.
Sail from Gage Road.
Examination of coast.
Reach Champion Bay.
Visit Mount Fairfax and Wizard Peak.
Arid nature of country.
Want of water.
Native Grave.
The Greenough river.
Natives.
Leave Champion Bay.
Koombanah Bay.
Naturaliste Reef.
Reach South Australia.
Port Adelaide.
Proposed Railroad.
Visit Mount Barker.
Encounter Bay.
Native fishing.
Return to Adelaide.
Sail from South Australia.
Portland Bay.
Squatters.
Tour in the interior.
Fertile country.

View from the Sugarloaf.
Visit Cape Bridgewater.
Sail for Hobart.
Liberality of Sir John Franklin.
Atmospheric changes.
Arrive at Sydney.

CHAPTER 2.13.

Exploration of Interior.
Twofold Bay.
Survey of Bass Strait.
Dangerous situation of the Beagle.
Kent and Hogan Groups.
Gipps Land.
Wilson's Promontory.
The Tamar.
Eastern entrance of Strait.
Steam communication between India and Australia.
New Guinea.
Straitsmen.
North coast of Tasmania.
Aborigines.
Port Phillip.
Directions for ships passing King Island.
Complete survey of Bass Strait.
Farewell to Sydney.
Moreton Bay.
The Comet.
State of Tasmania, or Van Diemen's Land.
Lighthouses in Bass Strait.

CHAPTER 2.14. AUSTRALIA TO ENGLAND.

Sail from Tasmania.
The South-west Cape.
Monument to Flinders.

Rottnest Island.
Lighthouse.
Penal Establishment.
Longitude of Fremantle.
Final departure from Western Australia.
Rodrigue Island.
Effects of a hurricane at Mauritius.
The crew and passengers of a foundered vessel saved.
Bourbon.
Madagascar.
Simon's Bay.
Deep sea soundings.
Arrival in England.
Take leave of the Beagle.
The Surveying service.

APPENDIX.

WINDS AND WEATHER ON THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN
COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. BY COMMANDER J.C. WICKHAM,
R.N.

LIST OF CHARTS.

VOLUME 2.

VICTORIA RIVER.
GULF OF CARPENTARIA.
ALBERT RIVER.
PART OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
PORT ADELAIDE AND HOLDFAST BAY.

[Not included in this ebook]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOLUME 2.

MESSRS. FITZMAURICE AND KEYS DANCING FOR THEIR LIVES.
FIRST APPEARANCE OF SEA RANGE.
HEAD AND FEET OF ALLIGATOR.
KILLING AN ALLIGATOR, VICTORIA RIVER.
WICKHAM HEIGHTS FROM TORTOISE REACH.
CAPTAIN STOKES SPEARED AT POINT PEARCE.
GOUTY-STEM TREE.
FRUIT OF GOUTY-STEM TREE.
VIEWS OF MORESBY'S RANGE, SEA RANGE, AND CAPE BEDFORD.
ANCIENT DUTCH GUN.
NATIVE DRAWINGS.
COEPANG FROM THE ANCHORAGE.
PASSING BETWEEN BALD HEAD AND VANCOUVER REEF.
ENTRANCE OF VAN DIEMEN'S INLET.
INTERESTING TREE.
BURIAL REACH, FLINDERS RIVER.
UPWARD VIEW OF HOPE REACH, ALBERT RIVER.
FIRST VIEW OF THE PLAINS OF PROMISE, ALBERT RIVER.
LAST VIEW OF THE PLAINS OF PROMISE, ALBERT RIVER.
APPROACH TO PORTLAND BAY.
DANGEROUS SITUATION OF BEAGLE.
DEVIL'S TOWER.
KILLING A KANGAROO.
HUMMOCK ISLAND.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY.

CHAPTER 2.1.

Leave Port Essington.
Clarence Strait.

Hope Inlet.
Shoal Bay.
Land for Observations.
Explore a new Opening.
Talc Head.
Port Darwin.
Continue Exploration.
Mosquitoes and Sandflies.
Nature of the Country.
Its parched appearance.
Large ant's nest.
Return to Shoal Bay.
Visit from the Natives.
Remarks.
Their teeth perfect.
Rite of Circumcision.
Observations on the Migrations of the Natives.
Theory of an Inland Sea.
Central Desert.
Salt water drunk by Natives.
Modes of procuring water.
Survey the harbour.
Natives on a raft.
Anecdote.
Bynoe Harbour.
Well.
Brilliant Meteors.
Natives on Point Emery.
Their surprise at the well.
Importance of water.
Anecdote.
Languages of Australia.
Specimens.
Remarks.
Leave Port Darwin.
Tides.
Squall.
Visit Port Patterson.

Leave.
Examine opening to the south-west.
Table Hill.
McAdam Range.
Adventure with an Alligator.
Exploring party.
Discovery of the Victoria.
Ascend the river.
Appearance of the Country.
Fitzmaurice River.
Indian Hill.
The Beagle taken up the river.

LEAVE PORT ESSINGTON.

Early on the morning of the 4th of September, 1839, the Beagle was once
more slipping out of Port Essington before a light land wind. We had taken a
hearty farewell of our friends at Victoria, in whose prosperity we felt all the
interest that is due to those who pioneer the way for others in the formation
of a new settlement. No doubt the hope that our discoveries might open a
new field for British enterprise, and contribute to extend still more widely
the blessings of civilization, increased the sympathy we felt for the young
colony at Victoria. There is always a feeling of pride and pleasure
engendered by the thought that we are in any way instrumental to the
extension of man's influence over the world which has been given him to
subdue. In the present instance, the success of our last cruise and the state of
preparation in which we were now in for a longer one, caused us to take our
departure from Port Essington in far higher spirits than on the former
occasion.

PASS THROUGH CLARENCE STRAIT.

We again shaped our course for Clarence Strait, the western entrance of
which was still unexamined. The wind, however, being light, we passed the
night in Popham Bay; and on leaving next morning, had only six fathoms in
some tide ripplings nearly two miles off its south point, Cape Don. We
passed along the south side of Melville Island, where a large fire was still
burning. Early in the evening we anchored in seven fathoms, to wait for a

boat that had been sent to examine a shoal bay on the North-West side of
Cape Keith. Green Ant Cliffs bore South-West two miles.

September 7.

Weighing at daylight we hauled up south, into the middle of the channel,
crossing a ridge of 5 1/2 fathoms; Ant Cliffs bearing West-South-West five
miles, and three or four from the shore. This ridge appears to be thrown up at
the extremity of the flats fronting the shore. On deepening the water to 10
and 12 fathoms, the course was changed to West 1/2 South, passing midway
between North Vernon Isle and Cape Gambier, where the width of the
channel is seven miles, though the whole of it is not available for the
purposes of navigation, a long detached reef lying three miles from the Cape,
and a small one two miles from the North Vernon Isle.* The tide hurried the
Beagle past between these reefs with some rapidity, the soundings at the
time being 19 fathoms.

(*Footnote. These isles, three in number, lying quite in the centre of the
western entrance of the Strait, are fringed with extensive coral reefs. There
are, however, deep passages between them.)

Having cleared Clarence Strait, and found it to be perfectly navigable with
common precaution (which in a slight degree enhanced the value of the
discovery of the Adelaide) our course was directed for a bay to the
southward, which Captain King had not examined. A very refreshing cool
north-westerly seabreeze* had just succeeded a short calm. Passing four
miles from the western extremity of the Vernon Isles, we had irregular
soundings of ten and seven fathoms. The ripplings and discoloured water are
a warning that they should be approached with caution on this side.

(*Footnote. The seabreeze prevailing from the westward through Clarence
Strait, the passage to Port Essington from the westward, during the easterly
monsoon, might be more easily made by passing through it, instead of
working along the north side of Melville Island.)

The mouth of a considerable inlet came in sight at the head of a bay as we
advanced towards it, steering South by East. This opening began to appear of
consequence as we drew near, although the singularly gradual decrease in

the soundings, on a sandy bottom materially diminished the probability of its
being the mouth of a river. Still, when we anchored as near as we could
approach, there remained a hope of its being so.

HOPE INLET. SHOAL BAY.

September 8.

Early in the morning Mr. Forsyth and myself started to explore the opening.
We soon discovered that it was nothing more than a shallow creek at low-
water. The tide here rising twenty feet, gave it the important appearance it
had yesterday evening. A tall clump of naked trees was conspicuous at the
east entrance point, towering above the insipid mangrove shore. We gave it
the name of Hope Inlet, to commemorate the feelings it excited on its first
discovery. From the south point of Clarence Strait it is distant eleven miles,
and the bay in which it lies, from the shallow-water at the head of it, was
called Shoal Bay.

The boat being provisioned for four days, we pushed on to explore another
opening above fifteen miles to the westward. The seabreeze setting in early,
we did not reach it till after dark, when we landed for observations at a cliffy
projection near the eastern entrance point: this we found to be composed of a
kind of pipeclay, mixed with calcareous matter. We had some difficulty in
landing, and then in scrambling up the cliffs by the light of a lantern. If any
of the watchful natives happened at the time to be on the lookout, they must
have stood fixed with astonishment at beholding such strange persons, who
at such a time of night, with no ostensible object were visiting their shores.

EXPLORE A NEW OPENING.

September 9.

Before the veil of darkness was quite removed, we could faintly distinguish
the mouth of the opening; and the sight at daylight was most cheering. A
wide bay appearing between two white cliffy heads, and stretching away
within to a great distance, presented itself to our view. Far to the southward,
between the heads, rose a small table-topped hill. As we pulled in towards
the eastern entrance point, the river-like appearance began to wear off, more

land making its appearance towards the head of the opening. On reaching
this point Mr. Forsyth and myself climbed up the cliff, whilst the breakfast
was cooking. From the summit we had a good view of the bay, and were
delighted to find large openings in the south-east and south-west corners of
it. The table hill before mentioned, stood on the point between them. To see
the eastern part of it, however, it was necessary to cross to the opposite
point, where some talc slate, pieces of which measured four inches in length,
was found imbedded in quartz. The point was called in consequence, Talc
Head.

PORT DARWIN.

The other rocks near it were of a fine-grained sandstone: a new feature in the
geology of this part of the continent, which afforded us an appropriate
opportunity of convincing an old shipmate and friend, that he still lived in
our memory; and we accordingly named this sheet of water Port Darwin. A
few small bamboos grew on this head; the other trees were chiefly white
gums. I climbed to the top of one of them, and obtained thence a view of
another opening in the eastern part of the harbour. It now being low-water,
an extensive shoal was discovered, reaching from abreast of Talc Head to the
point separating the South-East and South-West openings, an extent of
nearly five miles. This somewhat diminished the value of our discovery, as it
limited the capabilities of the bay as a harbour.

We now proceeded to explore the north-eastern and largest opening, distant
six miles from our station. A large islet and a reef left the entrance only a
mile wide. Expanding again, it formed two arms, one running south, the
other East-South-East, between small groups of singular isolated haycock-
shaped hills, about 250 feet high. Following the latter, being the largest, we
found that it soon curved round, taking a southerly direction. A bank free
from mangroves occurring in this bend, we availed ourselves of it, as the day
was closing in, to secure some early stars for latitude and longitude. The
intense pleasure afforded by traversing water that had never before been
divided by any keel, in some measure compensated us for the annoyance
from the mosquitoes and sandflies, that took the opportunity of assailing us
while in the defenceless state of quiet necessary in making observations.
Pushing out into the middle of the stream, and each wielding a beater, our

tiny enemies were soon shaken off, and borne back to the shore by a
refreshing North-West breeze.

We found it necessary to keep a sharp lookout here for the alligators, as they
swarmed in dangerous numbers.

The scarcity of fish, and the shallowness of the water did not hold out much
hope that the arm we were tracing would prove of great extent; still many
speculations were hazarded on the termination of it. The temperature in the
night was down to 78 degrees, and the dew sufficiently heavy to wet the
boat's awning through.

CONTINUE EXPLORATION.

Anxious to know how far this piece of water was to carry us into the
untrodden wilds of Australia, we moved off with the first streak of dawn.
Ten miles in a South by East direction brought us to where the width and
depth was not sufficient to induce us to proceed further. Besides, as we were
then only fifteen miles from a bend of the upper part of the Adelaide, which
must receive the drainage of all that part of the country, it seemed
improbable that any other large river existed in the neighbourhood. Six miles
from our furthest, which was about thirty miles from the entrance, we passed
a small island. The banks on either side of the inlet were, as usual, a thick
grove of mangroves, except in one spot, a mile lower down, where we
landed on our return for observations. This we found to be a low cliffy
projection of slate formation, whilst scattered over the face of the few miles
of country, which we are able to explore, were small bits of quartz; large
blocks also of which protruded occasionally through a light kind of mould.

APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.

The country was a most thirsty-looking level, the low brushwood on which
cracked and snapped as we walked through it, with a brittle dryness that
testified how perfectly parched-up was everything. A single spark would
instantly have wrapped the whole face of the country in one sheet of fire.
Slight blasts of heated withering air, as if from an oven, would occasionally
strike the face as we walked along; sometimes they were loaded with those
peculiar and most agreeable odours that arise from different kinds of gums.

Still the white eucalyptus and the palm, wore in comparison with the other
vegetation, an extraordinary green appearance, derived probably from the
nightly copious falls of dew, which is the only moisture this part of the
continent receives during the present season. The birds we observed were
common to other parts of the continent, being a few screaming cockatoos,
parrots, and quails, and near the water a small white egret. There was
nothing of interest to recall our memories to this first visit to a new part of
Australia, save a very large ant's nest, measuring twenty feet in height. This
object is always the first that presents itself whenever my thoughts wander to
that locality.

As the boat was not provisioned for the time it would take to explore all the
openings we had discovered, and as the capabilities of Port Darwin were
sufficiently great to require the presence of the ship, I determined on
returning immediately to Shoal Bay.

VISIT FROM THE NATIVES.

During the time we were absent, some of our people who had been on shore,
received a visit from a party of natives, who evinced the most friendly
disposition. This verifies what I have before observed, as to the remarkable
differences of character that exist between many Australian tribes, though
living in the immediate neighbourhood of each other; for, it will be
remembered, that at no great distance we had experienced a very different
reception.

Those people amounted in number, with their families, to twenty-seven, and
came down to our party without any symptoms of hesitation. Both men and
women were finer than those we had seen in Adam Bay. The tallest male
measured five feet eleven, which is three inches less than a native Flinders
measured in the Gulf of Carpentaria. The teeth of these people were ALL
PERFECT, an additional proof that the ceremony of knocking them out, like
others practised in Australia, is very partially diffused. The rite of
circumcision, for instance, is only performed at King's Sound, on the west
side of the Gulf of Carpentaria, and near the head of the Australian bight on
the south. Mr. Eyre, who discovered the existence of the rite on the last-
mentioned part of the continent, infers that the natives of the places I have
mentioned must have had some communication with each other through the

interior; but it is possible that at a distant period of time, circumcision may
have been very generally practised, and that having become gradually
disused, the custom is now only preserved at two or three points, widely
separated from each other. I do not advance this as a theory, but simply as a
suggestion, as there is some difficulty in supposing communication to have
taken place across the continent.

MIGRATION OF THE NATIVES.

Some light may be thrown on the migration of the aboriginal inhabitants of
Australia, by tracing the parts of the coast on which canoes are in use. It has
already been mentioned, that we had not seen any westward of Clarence
Strait, neither were they in use in the bottom of the Gulf of Carpentaria, nor
on the south coast.* By the assistance of these and similar facts, we may
hereafter be enabled to discover the exact direction in which the streams of
population have flowed over the continent. But I am not prepared to agree
entirely with Mr. Eyre when he concludes, as I have stated, from the fact of
the rite of circumcision having been found on the south and north-west
coasts, and on the Gulf of Carpentaria, that there exists any peculiar
connection between the tribes inhabiting those several points. This
enterprising traveller moreover thinks that the idea he has started goes far
towards refuting the theory of an inland sea, another presumption against
which he maintains to be the hot winds that blow from the interior.

(*Footnote. An inference may be drawn from the parts of the shore on which
canoes are in use, to show that the migrations of the natives, so far
southwards, have been along the coast. The raft they use is precisely the
same in make and size on the whole extent of the North-west coast.)

THEORY OF AN INLAND SEA.

I confess that the theory of an inland sea has long since vanished from my
mind, though I base my opinion on reasons different from those of Mr. Eyre.
The intercourse between natives of opposite sides of the continent (though it
is certainly possible) has never been established, and while it remains
hypothetical, cannot be adduced to overthrow another hypothesis. The
existence of hot winds also blowing from the interior is not conclusive, as
we had, when in the Gulf of Carpentaria, very cold winds coming from the

same direction. We know, however, that the temperature of winds depends
much on the nature of the soil over which they sweep, for instance, in a cold
clayey soil, the radiation of heat is very rapid.

Before quitting this subject it may be as well to mention that my own
impression, which the most recent information bears out, is that instead of an
inland sea, there is in the centre of Australia a vast desert, the head of which,
near Lake Torrens, is not more than three hundred feet above the level of the
sea. The coast being surrounded by hilly ranges, the great falls of rain that
must occasionally occur in the interior, may convert a vast extent of the
central and lowest portion, towards the north side of the continent, into a
great morass, or lake, which, from the northerly dip, must discharge its
waters slowly into the Gulf of Carpentaria, without possessing sufficient
stability to mark either its bed or boundaries.

FRIENDLY NATIVES.

To return to the party of natives which has given rise to this digression. They
had clearly never seen a white person before; for they stepped up to one man
of fair complexion, who had his trousers turned up over his knees, and began
rubbing his skin to see whether it was painted. They came fearlessly to our
party, as they were collecting shells at the extremity of a long flat. One of the
officers, who happened to be very thirsty, placed such confidence in their
friendly manner, that he allowed them to conduct him alone to a small well
near the beach, but the water was too salt to be drunk. The force of habit is
astonishing: natives drink this brackish fluid and find it very refreshing. The
small quantity that suffices them is also surprising, though they will drink
enormously when they can get it.

MODES OF PROCURING WATER.

Their mode of procuring this necessary element is singular, and they exhibit
in this particular much ingenuity and great fertility of resources. They are
never harassed with the idea of being without any; which not only distresses
but adds to the horror of thirst with the European explorer, who has not
experienced the constant watchfulness of Providence, and does not know
that he may collect from the leaves, with a sponge, on some mornings, as
much as a pint of water. This has, however, been done, even on the south

coast, where the dews are not so copious as on the north-west. The natives
themselves are never at a loss for that indeed precious article, water. They
sometimes procure it by digging up the lateral roots of the small gumtree, a
dusty and fatiguing operation: they break them off in short bits, and set them
up to drain into a piece of bark or a large shell. By tapping also the knotty
excrescences of trees they find the fluid, which they suck out. Many of these
modes of obtaining water are of course known to experienced bushmen, like
Mr. Eyre, whose deeply interesting narrative of his hardships and perils has
already enlisted the sympathy of the public.

September 12.

We moved the ship into Port Darwin, anchoring just within the eastern cliffy
head which, to commemorate Lieutenant Emery's success in finding water
by digging, we named after him.

SURVEY OF THE HARBOUR.

All the surveying force was now put in instant requisition; Captain Wickham
went to examine an opening in the coast mentioned by Captain King, lying
about twelve miles further to the westward, whilst the other boats explored
the openings at the head of the harbour.

That on the eastern part, Mr. Fitzmaurice traced ten miles in a south-easterly
direction, being the greatest distance it was navigable for a boat. The
remaining branch in the large opening, in the south-eastern corner of the
harbour, Mr. Forsyth and myself explored South-South-East three miles, and
South-South-West five more, the extent to which it was possible to advance.
Beyond, it was strewed with large blocks of granite; a fact, for which we
were in some degree prepared, as in the vicinity of the Adelaide River we
had proof of the primary formation of this part of the continent. As the boat
lay scarcely afloat between two of these lumps of rock, numbers of white
ibises, with black necks, kept flying over us from the southward, indicating
that a swamp lay in that direction. We also disturbed several alligators, who
slid off quietly into the water at our approach. There was no variety in the
shores of this inlet, composed like all the others, of an impenetrable network
of mangroves. A ridge of the same conical-shaped low hills before alluded
to, as existing in this neighbourhood, rose upon our right as we came up, and

bore from our furthest North by West two miles; from the highest part up the
inlet in the south-west corner, east two miles.

The latter we found very tortuous, extending in a general direction south
nine miles. No events occurred worthy of any remark during our
examination, except one of a trifling character: the mosquitoes taking
advantage of the calm, between the high mangroves on the banks, attacked
us most cruelly, a circumstance we mention as trifling, as far as the reader is
concerned, but of great moment to us.

After completing the survey of the southern and western portion of this
harbour, we returned to the ship, where soon afterwards Captain Wickham
also arrived, having found Patterson Bay to be a good port. It trended in
south ten miles, and East-South-East the same distance, forming quite an
inner haven, which was named after Mr. Bynoe.

NATIVES ON A RAFT.

At the turning leading from the outer to the inner harbour they came
suddenly in view of a raft making across, a distance of three miles, on which
were two women with several children, whilst four or five men were
swimming alongside, towing it and supporting themselves by means of a log
of wood across their chests. On perceiving the boat they instantly struck out
for the land leaving the women on the raft. For some time the latter kept
their position, waiting until the boat got quite near, when they gave utterance
to a dreadful yell, and assuming at the same time a most demoniacal aspect,
plunged into the water as if about to abandon the children to their fate.

MATERNAL AFFECTION AND FEAR.

Not so, however; despite the dreadful fear they appeared to entertain of the
white man, maternal affection was strong within them, and risking all to save
their offspring, they began to tow the raft with all their strength towards the
shore. This devotion on the part of the women to their little ones, was in
strong contrast with the utter want of feeling shown by the men towards both
mothers and children.

Captain Wickham now, no doubt to their extreme consternation, pulled after
the men, and drove them back to the raft. Some dived and tried thus to
escape the boat, while others grinned ferociously, and appeared to hope, by
dint of hideous grimaces--such as are only suggested even to a savage by the
last stage of fear--to terrify the white men from approaching. At length,
however, they were all driven back to the raft, which was then towed across
the harbour for them; a measure which they only were able to approve of
when they had landed, and fear had quite subsided.

Doubtless, the forbearance of our party surprised them, for from their
terrified looks and manner, when swimming with all their strength from the
raft, they must have apprehended a fate at least as terrible as that of being
eaten.

The raft itself was quite a rude affair, being formed of small bundles of wood
lashed together, without any shape or form, quite different from any we had
seen before.

Bynoe Harbour was found to terminate in three deep creeks branching off
between North-East and South-East, the largest of which led into fresh
water, but in small detached pools, which are separated from the salt, by a
shelf of red porous sandstone, and which two miles further became entirely
lost in the rocks. The green appearance of the gumtrees and an occasional
clump of palms, which had pleasingly succeeded the mangroves, as they
advanced, assured Captain Wickham that there was fresh water near.
Probably, if they had carried their researches further, they would have found
these signs reappear again, doubtless proceeding from a swamp, the presence
of which the reader will recollect I inferred from seeing the ibis flocking
from the south-west up the south inlet in Port Darwin; the west inlet of
which is only one mile distant from the north-east creek in the head of
Bynoe Harbour. Doubtless when the country is not in its present parched and
thirsty state, all these are fresh at their heads.

WELL AT PORT DARWIN.

The slow progress made in watering, from the soft nature of the soil in the
bottom of the well, lengthened our stay considerably in Port Darwin. The
water oozed through the sides, beginning to do so at a depth of twenty-five

feet. The strata cut through varied considerably, in part consisting of
ironstone mixed with a white kind of marl or pipeclay, for eight feet, then
sandstone of a reddish colour and in a state of decomposition, with a darker
kind of marl, in which were small bits of mica, for a depth of sixteen feet,
the remaining portion of two or three being a sandy mud, apparently of the
consistency of clay and of a light grey colour. The position of this well is in
a small valley at the east end of the first sandy bay within Point Emery, in
the centre of which the observations were made, placing it in latitude 12
degrees 27 minutes 45 seconds, longitude 1 degree 19 minutes 40 seconds,
East of Port Essington.

On this beach several unsuccessful hauls were made with the seine, though a
few rare and curious fish were taken, which Lieutenant Emery added to his
collection of coloured drawings of Australian fish; some of them will be
found in the appendix to this volume. Mr. Bynoe also obtained specimens of
one or two rare birds; the large red-necked vampire of the Adelaide River,
and the cream-coloured pigeon before alluded to, were also seen by him,
being the farthest south the latter was met with by us.

BRILLIANT METEORS.

Some brilliant meteors were observed during our stay, one in particular on
the evening of the 20th, in the West-North-West. It fell from the zenith at an
angle of about twenty degrees from a vertical line. The descent was marked
by a long train of light, visible ten seconds, while others of less brilliancy
followed from the same place within an hour. Again on the 23rd, was the
dark vault of heaven illumined about the same time in a similar manner, as
well as on the 28th; the number of meteors being the same on each day.

We were rather surprised on the 24th, to experience a squall from the
eastward about midnight, a regular occurrence on the North-west coast in
January and February only.

VISITED BY NATIVES.

On the 24th a party of natives made their appearance on Point Emery. Their
voices, shrill like those of all their fellows, were heard before they were
seen. With these it was particularly so, though on all occasions the speaking,

and hallooing of the Aborigines can be heard at a very considerable distance.
They were found, when on shore, to be of the party we had before seen in
Shoal Bay, with the addition of five strange men. All appeared actuated by
the same friendly disposition, a very strong indication of which was their
presenting themselves without spears.* Like most others on that coast, they
had apiece of bamboo, eighteen inches long, run through the cartilage of the
nose. Their astonishment at the size of the wells was highly amusing; sudden
exclamations of surprise and admiration burst from their lips, while the
varied expressions and play of countenance, showed how strongly their
feelings were at work within.

(*Footnote. Speaking of natives appearing without spears, reminds me to
mention for the information of future explorers, that their arms are always
near at hand. They even trail them sometimes between their toes, a fact
which travellers should ever bear in mind.)

It is very singular, and not very susceptible of explanation, that although
they climb tall trees by merely resting their toes in a slight notch cut as they
ascend, the natives will hesitate in alarm before looking over the edge of a
precipice or height; it was, therefore, some time before this party could be
induced to look down the well. At length by stretching their spare bodies and
necks to the utmost, they caught sight of the water in the bottom.

SURPRISE OF NATIVES AT THE WELL.

The effect upon them was magical, and they stood at first as if electrified. At
length their feelings gained vent, and from their lips proceeded an almost
mad shout of delight. Nothing perhaps could have more decisively shown
the superiority of the white men to these savages, than our being thus able to
procure this necessary of life from so great a depth, there being moreover no
outward appearance of any. Perhaps their delight may be considered a sign
how scarce is water in this part of the country. I should certainly say from
the immense quantity each man drank, which was two quarts, that this was
the case. A further corroboration of the extreme importance of this element
to the Western Australian is, that a native, in describing a fine country,
always opens his narrative by stating the important fact--plenty water.

The deep interest which in the natives always succeeds to the discovery of
this necessary article, must strongly impress the explorer, who will ever
afterwards look upon streams, even in other countries, with far different
feelings from any before experienced. In no land does the presence of water
more rapidly enrich the landscape, changing it from a thirsty-looking plain to
a rich green spot, than in Australia, and it is in journeying through such a
country, when one suddenly meets with a luxuriant valley, that the eye
naturally dwells with delight on the changing scene, and the impression, not
easily forgotten, clings to us even when far away. When gazing on the
superabundant water that flows in almost every corner of the earth, we
cannot but reflect on the scantily supplied Australian, nor fail to wish him a
more plentiful supply.

BLESSING OF WATER.

Naturally we are disposed to reflect but little on the great blessings of the
most ordinary things. In the eyes of the civilized man, fire and water are
matters scarcely worthy of thought; but it is the traveller who learns to
appreciate how great blessings they are in reality.

An influenza appeared to be raging among the natives, all having the
remnants of colds, coughing severely when we met them. Several attempts
were made to induce them to come on board, but they proved vain.
Sometimes, just as the boat was leaving the shore, they would enter the bow
of it, as if about to accompany us; no sooner, however, was the boat in
motion, than out they jumped, laughing and apparently delighted to deceive
us, acting, in fact, exactly the part of noisy children.

"IRRU, IRRU."

Our friendly intercourse with these natives sustained a shock, which at first
threatened to annihilate it, but which fortunately ended, as it began, in
smoke. One of the officers used a common flint and steel, in order to procure
a light for his cigar; at this new mode of procuring fire all eyes were open--
for doubtless they procure it only by means of friction--but when he
proceeded to place the lighted cigar between his lips, and roll forth from
thence a thick and perfumed cloud, fright took full possession of them, and
exclaiming "irru, irru," with the arm extended, and a slight vertical motion of

the hand, they darted off most unceremoniously, clambering up the face of a
precipitous cliff, with extraordinary agility. Their cry of "irru, irru," and their
manner of delivering it, were identical with those of King's Sound, under
somewhat similar circumstances. In a few days they had forgotten their
fright, and had returned to renew the friendly relations this little incident had
interrupted.

During the short time we passed with this people in Port Darwin, some
words of their language were collected by many of us. Those that we all
agreed in I have noted down, but the different names for things given by the
same person, here and at Shoal Bay, will at once impress the reader with the
conviction of how impossible it is for transient visitors to obtain a correct
vocabulary. Those first made out at Port Essington, were found to be half
Malay words, and of any meaning rather than what they were supposed to
convey. The words given below are from Mr. Earl's vocabulary, the result of
four years careful examination and experience.

COLUMN 1: ENGLISH.
COLUMN 2: SHOAL BAY.
COLUMN 3: PORT DARWIN.
COLUMN 4: PORT ESSINGTON.
COLUMN 5: SWAN RIVER.

Crab : Algaura : - : Meir : -.
Dog : Melinga : - : Mugki : Dudah.
Ear : Bangua : - : Alayjar : Zungah.
Eye : Ummera : Mical : Ira : Mael.
Hair : Brailma : Guarshiel : Angbal : Cutap.
Hand : - : Guian : - : -.
Stone : - : Lowheil : - : -.
Tree : Urmingua : - : Ojalli : Boono.
Teeth : Emburge : - : Aujije : Nalgo.
Water : - : Kararback : - : Kaaby.

DIFFICULTY OF UNDERSTANDING THE NATIVES.

The great difference between the words at Shoal Bay and Port Darwin, must
now be apparent to the reader; a more extended acquaintance with the

aboriginal inhabitants of Australia, has shown that many words put down by
us as meaning a certain thing, signify in reality, "What do you mean?" "I do
not understand"--which shows at once the great difficulty of arriving at the
truth. This must often be the case; for what is more natural, than that when a
savage is asked the meaning of a thing, and knows not, but that he should
express his ignorance? How often this expression of ignorance has been
registered as the denomination of some animal or thing, we leave the reader
to conjecture. Moreover, there are many words totally obliterated from their
dialects, which thus undergo constant alteration. This in part arises from the
circumstance of their never mentioning the name of a deceased person, who
has perhaps been called after a tree, bird, or animal; which then receives
another appellation, the old one passing away. From the few words given of
the respective dialects of Port Essington and Swan River, they would appear
essentially to differ, and from what has since come under my own
observation, as well as from facts collected by others, I feel confident that
there are many distinct dialects spoken in Australia.

DIALECTS OF AUSTRALIA.

It is easy enough for those who hold to the theory that Australia produces
few dialects, to create for themselves a resemblance in words by mutilation
and addition; but on careful examination, the similarity will not be found to
exist. The natives we took from Swan River, never could understand any of
those we met on the North-west coast, though certainly Mr. Moore
recognized a few words spoken by the natives on the West coast, about 200
miles north of Swan River, as being identical with the language used at the
latter place.

It may here be as well to quote Strzelecki on this subject, ere we pursue our
narrative:

"The circumstance of the three natives who accompanied Captain Flinders
and Captain P.P. King, in the survey of New Holland, and of those who
accompanied me amongst the different tribes of New South Wales, being
unable to understand one word spoken by tribes of other districts, would lead
to the belief that the dialects spoken in New Holland, are far from possessing
those affinities, still less those identities of language, from which a common
root might be inferred. Those European visitors or explorers who adduce, in

support of a common root, some hundred words analogous in sound,
construction and meaning, as being spoken all over New Holland, have
jumped to the conclusion with, I fear, too much haste and eagerness. Besides
many other insuperable difficulties, which an investigation of such a nature
presents, there was one quite sufficient to defeat all attempts to fathom the
subject, namely, the syntactic ignorance of the language to which the inquiry
related. Indeed, to any man who knows and speaks four European languages,
it will be at once apparent, that to seize upon, and note from the sound, a
word belonging to one country, so as to compare its sound and accentuation
with a word belonging to another country, needs a thorough knowledge of
the genius of the two languages, and of their alphabet, through which alone
the pronunciation can be discriminated."

Though, however, we may not attain to a knowledge of the truth at once, yet
should we never lose an opportunity of making a vocabulary of such words
as we know to be correct. This should be the case from one consideration
alone; for how gratifying it is, when visiting an uncivilized people, to find
that you know a word or two of their language! The satisfaction is mutual--
there is at once a sympathetic link between you--you no longer appear as
thorough strangers to each other, and this slight knowledge of their dialect
may often be the means of making useful acquaintances.

To return, however, to the thread of our narrative.

LEAVE PORT DARWIN.

The opening to the westward, visited by Captain Wickham, requiring further
examination, we left Port Darwin for that purpose, beating out on the
morning of the 26th. Before taking leave, however, of this place, it will not
be deemed irrelevant if we give some slight description of it. The entrance
points, I have already said, are white cliffy projections, and distant from
each other three miles. Just outside them lies a long four fathom bank,
which, together with a very extensive flat of one, and two fathoms, nearly
joining it from the eastern side, and another fronting the north side of the
west entrance point, comprise all the dangers on entering this port; which,
although of considerable size, is much occupied by shoal water, particularly
on the western side, commencing from abreast of Talc Head. The best
anchorage is near Point Emery. The extreme of the latter, and a clump of

peaked bushes on the south point of the eastern arm of the harbour, when in
one, make a good mark for leading out; passing on the west side of the four
fathom bank, where the channel is a mile wide and 10 fathoms deep.

IRREGULARITY OF THE TIDES.

The tide is very irregular in Port Darwin, rising at springs 24 feet, and at
neaps sometimes only two; its rate being from one and a half to three knots.
The time of high-water at the full and change of moon, was half-past five,
which being half an hour earlier than at Clarence Strait, fully bears out the
opinion I have before expressed, that the flood-tide comes from the
westward.

Having to beat out against the seabreeze, the flood-tide made before we
could get round the point on the coast lying midway between Ports Darwin
and Patterson, and we were compelled to pass the night in the
neighbourhood, a circumstance rendered disagreeable by the recurrence of
another midnight squall from East-North-East, so severe as to require the use
of a second anchor. The rain was so bitterly cold and sudden, as well as
violent, acting also on our frames with more severity from the lightness of
our clothing, that it had all the effect of a shower-bath, momentarily taking
away the power of speech. It caused a rapid fall in the thermometer of ten
degrees, bringing it as low as 60 degrees. At Port Darwin it had been
regularly 87 and 89 degrees in the day, and 80 degrees at night.

MIDNIGHT SQUALL.

The squall gave but slight warning of its approach, and four hours afterwards
the mutinous assemblage of clouds had wholly disappeared from the
heavens, leaving nothing to stay the advent of light which came pouring
itself in floods of molten glory over the cloudless sky, as the morning broke.
This was the signal of our again moving towards Port Patterson, which we
entered, passing on the eastern side of the reef in the mouth, and anchoring
close to the eastern shore of the outermost of a chain of sandy islets, forming
the west entrance point of the harbour, and extending eight miles in a North-
North-East 1/2 East direction from the land. This group is based on a great
coral ledge that dries in part at low-water, thus affording the natives the
means of going over easily to them, a circumstance of which they avail

themselves, as we found them on the outer island. They would not, however,
come near us, moving off as we landed. Doubtless the terror of some of their
party, in a great measure arose from a vivid recollection of the raft interview,
which was likely to dwell long in their minds; at all events, if not of the
same party, they had heard of us, and it will readily be believed, that we had
been painted in sufficiently terrible and exaggerated colours to render a
second interview, in their minds, very undesirable.

QUAIL ISLAND.

Our discovering them in this place, which we named Quail Island, from that
bird being found in great abundance, quite destroyed the hope we had
previously entertained of procuring turtle there. It was the season for their
incubation, and at that time the island swarmed with them; but our sable
friends had abundantly availed themselves of this fact, as we saw the
remains of several of their turtle feasts. Although low, and composed entirely
of sand, we found a native well of excellent water near the middle of the
island, which, having been enlarged, afforded an ample supply, a
circumstance that at once renders this a spot of importance and value. Both
on this and others of the group there were a few small trees and a sprinkling
of brushwood.

We did not notice any of the singular detached hills seen at Port Darwin, and
the greatest elevation any of the land in the neighbourhood attained was 200
feet; neither did we observe any primary rocks.

The observations were made at the South-East point of Quail Island, which
by them is placed in latitude 12 degrees 30 9/10 minutes South, and
longitude 1 degree 42 1/4 minutes West of Port Essington. The almost
insulated character of this part of the coast, and the quantity of soundings the
openings required detained us until the 6th of October, when we passed out
on the western side of the large reef in the centre of the entrance, which is
the proper one, and received the name of West Channel. The western
entrance point of Bynoe's Harbour, bearing South 15 degrees East, leads
through it. This guide is only, however, of service to a certain distance within
the entrance, as it leads over a small patch that dries at low-water, distant
two and a half miles from the above-mentioned point on the same bearing.
To avoid this danger, it is therefore necessary to haul over towards Quail

Island, when the highest hummock on it bears South-West 1/2 West. The
tides follow the direction of the channel, varying in velocity from one to two
knots. The ebb in the offing set West-North-West.

PORT PATTERSON.

The reader will be able to have an idea of the large sheet of water these
united harbours form, by knowing that Port Patterson is twelve miles long
and seven wide at the entrance; though at the upper part, forming the mouth
of Bynoe Harbour, it is not half that width. The latter winds round to the
South-East for a distance of 15 miles, with an average width of two, and a
depth of nine fathoms. Thus terminated our exploration in this
neighbourhood; the result having been to give this part of the coast quite an
insulated character. The sheets of water creating this new feature, although
monotonous with their mangrove-lined shores, still conveyed us many miles
into various parts of the continent that had never before been seen by a
civilized being.

Another opening of far greater magnitude, and promising in all probability to
lead far into the interior now lay before us, at a distance of 140 miles further
on the coast to the south-west. By the evening we had lost sight of the land
near Port Patterson, and were steering towards the opening that promised so
much. A gap in the coastline, 28 miles wide, with a strong tide passing to and
fro, failed not to give birth to endless speculation as we approached the spot.
I had always looked forward to the examination of this unexplored portion of
the North-west coast, as one of the most interesting parts of our survey.

REACH POINT PEARCE.

In consequence of light north-west and westerly winds, our approach was
tantalizingly slow, and we did not enter the opening until the evening of the
9th, when we passed four miles from the north point, called by Captain
King, Point Pearce. His visit to this part of the coast was in September 1819,
and under very adverse circumstances; his vessel had but one anchor left,
and the strong easterly winds then prevailing, with thick hazy weather,
rendered his progress into the opening both difficult and hazardous: after a
trial of two days, and having several narrow escapes from getting on shore,

he bore away to examine the coast to the south-west, where he was repaid
for his disappointment by the discovery of Cambridge Gulf.

Thus did the exploration of this wide and interesting opening fall to our good
fortune; as we proceeded inwards, several beautiful medusae passed the ship,
and our hopes were roused to the highest pitch by the muddy appearance of
the water. At sun set the anchor was dropped in five fathoms; Point Pearce, a
cliffy level projection, bearing North-West by North five miles, and about
one and a half from a low rocky point.

FOSSIL HEAD.

A bluff projection, bearing South 65 degrees East seven miles, bounded our
view to the southward, and a range of sugarloaf hills, the highest being 350
feet, rose about eight miles in the rear of it.

October 10.

We were naturally very anxious to proceed, and as soon as there was
sufficient light to read the division of the bearing compass, the ship was
gently stealing onward in the direction of the bluff, and furthest land seen
last evening to the South-East. We had not proceeded far before we
discovered a distant level range, beginning to show itself to the right of this
projection, adding still more to the zest with which we pursued our search.
The tide, however, making against us, and the wind gradually failing, we
were compelled to anchor abreast, and distant three quarters of a mile from
the north-west point of a bay two miles wide.

The bluff headland, before alluded to, forms the south-east point of this bay,
and to which Captain Wickham and myself hastened instantly the ship was
secured.

We found a few fossils on the side of this ridge, as we ascended, which at
once induced us to name it, Fossil Head. Our view was decisive of the fact,
that all further progress eastward was at an end, but to the south sandbanks
and patches of dark-coloured water bounding our view left still great hope.
The high land terminated abruptly to the southward, whilst looking to the
northward it appeared to subside in an East-North-East direction. The base

of this range was fronted by a low piece of land, stretching out on its north-
west side, and forming a point which bore South 35 degrees East five miles
from Fossil Head.

TABLE HILL.

But the most remarkable feature in the scene was an isolated flat-topped hill,
having all the appearance of a bastion or fortress, rising abruptly from the
surrounding plain, to an elevation of 650 feet, the upper part being a line of
cliffs, greatly adds to the appearance it presents, that of a complete
fortification. It bore North 85 degrees East, fourteen miles from Fossil Head;
and the country between was very low, and intersected by a creek about
midway. This remarkable piece of land is called in the chart Table Hill; an
inlet trended in towards the foot of it.

We noticed several old traces of natives; the country in the neighbourhood
was of a stony desolate character, yet appeared to afford nourishment for a
small growth of white gums. After examining two mangrove creeks of no
importance, in the north-west corner of the bay fronting the ship, we
returned.

Our hopes of finding a river of some magnitude were not in the least
destroyed from what we had seen from Fossil Head, and the southerly
direction of the flood-stream fostered our belief. Independent of these signs,
we felt that we were again entering upon a new part of the continent, and the
thoughts thus engendered acted like a powerful stimulant, so that we were
not easily cast down.

The tide serving badly, and the day being far advanced, it was decided that
we should not move the ship till next morning, when after getting abreast of
Fossil Head, we steered from it on the bearing of the deep-water channel we
had seen yesterday. We proceeded cautiously, feeling our way with the boats
ahead. After passing some distance along the eastern side of a long dry
sandbank, we were obliged again to anchor, both boats signalizing a depth of
only two fathoms.

FIND A CHANNEL FOR THE SHIP.

Table Hill bore North 46 degrees East, fifteen miles, and Fossil Head North
15 degrees West. It was now necessary to find a channel for the ship, which I
succeeded in doing the next day, and on that following, the 12th, Captain
Wickham, Mr. Bynoe, and myself, went to visit the high table range, while
Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys were to examine the large inlet running in
towards the foot of Table Hill.

By following a creek we almost reached the foot of the high level range in
the boat; a line of cliffs stretched along near the summit, beneath which it
sloped down rapidly to the plain. We ascended by a slight valley,
communicating with a break in the cliffs, but found on reaching the top that
instead of being on a level, we were standing amidst a series of undulations
or low hills, forming the crest of a platform, but so blended together, and of
so nearly the same height as to appear in the distance one continuous plain.
It was, therefore, with some difficulty that we could find the highest part,
each, until we reached it, appearing to be so. Ultimately I was compelled to
climb a tree, in order to obtain the necessary angles.

VIEW FROM TABLE HILL.

The view was very extensive, a wide inlet separating the range we stood on
from other high land trending southward, with great irregularity, from the
base of which stretched out a long plain, similar to that which lay at our feet.
The latter was intersected by creeks that could be traced by the mangrove
fringe which marked their course. Many parts of the low lands were covered
with a salt incrustation, and here and there were scattered trees deposited by
the overflows of the water, that still appeared to flow from the southward.
The sight of this driftwood and many minor appearances, was indeed most
welcome, and added full confirmation to the opinion that we were now
within the mouth of a large river.

To the South-West, and distant thirteen miles, were two large islands, which
from the remarkable shape of two patches of trees on their northern ends, we
named Quoin and Clump Islands. A small patch of low land was discovered
beyond them, between which and Quoin Island appeared the proper channel.
That, however, lying between the islands seemed sufficiently large for the
ship. Being moreover within our immediate reach, it was determined that we
should proceed by it.

MACADAM RANGE.

A remarkable change here occurred in the character of the country, the hills
being now composed of a white, and very compact kind of sandstone. In the
cliffs the strata were very marked, dipping to the South-East at an angle of
about thirty degrees with the horizon. The base and sides of these heights
were thickly strewn with small fragments of sandstone. The appearance
presented was precisely similar to that of a new road, after it had undergone
the improving process invented by Mr. McAdam, in whose honour,
therefore, we named this McAdam Range.

A large light-coloured kangaroo was the only living thing we saw. A short
green-looking grass was thinly sprinkled over the country, imparting a
freshness to it, which, in contrast with the aridity that had of late surrounded
us, was quite delightful.

Crossing the flat on returning to the boat, I was much struck by one
particular spot on the border of a creek. I came suddenly upon a number of
flat stones placed in rows, one upon the other. Though altogether covering
about ten yards of ground, there was no appearance of any shape in their
arrangement. I am still puzzled, to determine whether they were merely the
results of childish amusement, or had performed their part in some magical
incantation or religious ceremony of the natives. I am the more inclined to
think it was the latter, as there was a native grave near, covered with the
same kind of flat stones, to the height of about three feet. We had not before
observed anything like it, neither did we afterwards. Several flights of large
curlews were seen passing over the boat, and resting on the flats in its
neighbourhood. Whilst endeavouring to procure some of them, I was placed
in a sufficiently awkward position, running the risk of becoming myself a
fresh meal instead of procuring one.

NARROW ESCAPE FROM AN ALLIGATOR.

I had stripped to swim across a creek, and with gun in hand was stealthily
crawling to the outer edge of the flat where my intended victims were, when
an alligator rose close by, bringing his unpleasant countenance much nearer
than was agreeable. My gun was charged with shot, and the primitive state
of nudity to which I had just reduced myself, precluded the possibility of my

having a second load. To fire therefore was useless, and to retreat difficult,
for I had wandered from the boat some distance across the bank, on which
the water was fast rising. Thought, there was no time for, and before my
companions could have reached me, the tide would have flooded the place
sufficiently to enable the alligator to attack me at a disadvantage. My only
chance of escaping the monster was to hasten back to the boat, and to cross
the last creek before the alligator, who appeared fully aware of my
intentions. It was now, therefore, a mere matter of speed between us, and the
race began. I started off with the utmost rapidity, the alligator keeping pace
with me in the water. After a sharp and anxious race, I reached the last creek,
which was now much swollen; while the difficulty of crossing was
aggravated by my desire to save my gun. Plunging in I reached the opposite
shore just in time to see the huge jaws of the alligator extended close above
the spot where I had quitted the water. My deliverance was providential, and
I could not refrain from shuddering as I sat gaining breath upon the bank
after my escape, and watching the disappointed alligator lurking about as if
still in hopes of making his supper upon me. Waiting till the monster came
close, I took a deliberate aim at his eye, which had only the effect of
frightening him a little.

The wind, which was light, blew from the North-East from sunset last
evening until noon, being the first land-wind we had yet experienced. The
temperature remained nearly the same as at Port Patterson, the maximum
being here 86, and the minimum 81.

October 13.

We got on board about noon, and the next day Mr. Fitzmaurice returned. He
had found Table Hill to be a perfect natural fortress, accessible only at the
South-East corner by a slight break in the line of cliffs surrounding it; the
large inlet terminated in a creek passing close at the southern foot of the hill,
where it branched off in an east and north-east direction, and in the course of
three miles, became lost at the western extremity of some low thickly-
wooded plains, which extended eastward as far as the eye could reach. To
the south lay McAdam Range, which declining to the eastward, was at
length blended with the plain, the eye finding some difficulty in determining
where the hills ended and the plain commenced.

HOPES OF DISCOVERING A RIVER.

All the soundings and other data for the chart, in the immediate
neighbourhood, were collected by the 16th, when the ship was got
underweigh, as soon as the tide, which here rose twenty feet, was high
enough. After passing through a channel, six and seven fathoms deep, which
the dry extreme of the sandbank fronting the flat, extending off McAdam
Range, bearing South-South-East led through, we hauled over to the
westward for a swash way in the sands, extending off the north-west end of
Clump Island. In crossing the inlet, running under the south end of McAdam
Range, we found as much as ten fathoms, a depth that led to the hope of its
being of great importance, perhaps indeed the mouth of a river. Passing
between Clump and Quoin Islands, we anchored midway between the latter
and Driftwood Island, a proceeding which the approach of high-water
rendered necessary, as from the great fall of the tide we were obliged at that
time to have at least seven fathoms. We were now surrounded on all sides by
flat shores, and from the masthead, I could trace the low land forming the
western side of the principal channel. The high land south of McAdam
Range, was found to terminate in a remarkable peak, which in the certainty
of our search proving successful, we named River Peak. It was almost
blended in one with a range beyond, yet the fact of the distance which really
existed between them, did not escape our anxious observation; and it was
indeed in the different shade of these two ranges, one being less distinct than
the other, that we found ample confirmation of our hopes.

PREPARATIONS FOR EXPLORING.

It was soon arranged that Captain Wickham and myself, should at once
dispel all doubts, and that next morning, Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys
should start to explore the river-like opening, under the south end of
McAdam Range, to which we have above alluded.

DISCOVERY OF THE VICTORIA.

Our preparations were rapidly made, a few days provisions were stowed
away in the boat, and as the western sky glowed red in the expiring light of
day, the gig was running before a north-west breeze, for the chasm in the
distant high land, bearing South 20 degrees East, twelve miles from the ship.

As we advanced, the separations in the range became more marked and
distinct, as long as the light served us, but presently darkness wrapped all in
impenetrable mystery. Still we ran on keeping close to the eastern low land,
and just as we found that the course we held no longer appeared to follow
the direction of the channel, out burst the moon above the hills in all its
glory, shedding a silvery stream of light upon the water, and revealing to our
anxious eyes the long looked-for river, rippling and swelling, as it forced its
way between high rocky ranges. Under any circumstances the discovery
would have been delightful, but the time, the previous darkness, the moon
rising and spreading the whole before us like a panorama, made the scene so
unusually exciting, that I forbear any attempt to describe the mingled
emotions of that moment of triumph. As we ran in between the frowning
heights, the lead gave a depth of eighteen and twenty fathoms, the velocity
of the stream at the same time clearly showing how large a body of water
was pouring through. "This is indeed a noble river!" burst from several lips
at the same moment; "and worthy," continued I, "of being honoured with the
name of her most gracious majesty the Queen:" which Captain Wickham
fully concurred in, by at once bestowing upon it the name of Victoria River.

A glance at the map will show that we have not overrated its importance, or
acted hastily in calling it the Victoria; and it must be admitted that as the
Murray is to South-eastern Australia, so in value and importance is the great
river Victoria, to the opposite side of the continent.

Pursuing our course between the rocky heights, in a south-east direction, the
outline of a high peaked hill, standing between two ranges, became visible,
appearing, even at that time, so remarkable as to be named Endeavour Hill.*
The wind failing, we pushed into a small opening out of the stream, on the
right hand, to pass the night.

(*Footnote. Afterwards found to be 690 feet, the highest in the
neighbourhood.)

VIEW FROM LEADING HILL.

Anxious to trace further the course of the river, Captain Wickham and
myself ascended the top of a neighbouring hill before early dawn. The view
which presented itself when the day broke, was fraught with every charm of

novelty. A rapid stream passing between barren rocky heights, here stealing
along in calm silence, there eddying and boiling as it swept past, lay at our
feet. By a sudden bend two miles east of where we stood, it was hid from our
view; the ranges overlapping, however, still pointed out the further course of
the Victoria. The boat lay in the mouth of a creek, which communicating
with another four miles further down, formed an island on the eastern side of
the river, which we called Entrance Isle.

The formation of this part was a sandstone of a reddish hue, and in a state of
decomposition. A wiry grass and the never-failing eucalyptus were sparingly
scattered over the face of the country, which round the entrance had a most
unpromising and dreary appearance, showing at a glance its utterly sterile
character.

EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER.

Taking a hasty breakfast, we pulled up the river; the tortuous nature of the
first reaches, changing their directions suddenly from north to east-south-
east with a depth of seventeen and twenty fathoms, produces violent eddies
and whirlpools. Passing these, a splendid sheet of water lay before us,
trending south-east by south, as far as the eye could reach from the boat, and
more than a mile wide. In the first part of this we had a few shoal casts of the
lead, but afterwards the depth was eight and ten fathoms, it being near low-
water. In order to catch a glance at what was beyond, and to spell the oars,
we landed at a point on the east side, from which Endeavour Hill bore West
1/2 South three miles. Here the river, by taking a slight turn more to the
southward, was again lost sight of. We were sorry to perceive that it was
much occupied by shoals, that showed themselves at this time of tide. The
first began five miles beyond our station, commencing from abreast of a
rugged ridge, on the west bank. The singular manner in which the blocks of
sandstone were strewed over this height, caused it to bear a strong
resemblance to old ruins. The appearance of the country had not as yet
improved, though the sandstone had lost that reddish hue we had noticed in
the morning, while preserving the very marked dip to the south-east.

Continuing we found the change in the direction of the river very slight, and
at the end of sixteen miles it suddenly turned off to the eastward, which I
was sorry to find, as its diverging from its original south-easterly direction,

appeared likely to disappoint our expectation that the Victoria would prove a
highroad to the interior of the continent. The width had hitherto been almost
two miles, but there was not sufficient depth to give us any hope of bringing
the ship up thus far.

APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.

The country now began to assume a more cheerful aspect. The hills
exhibited no longer the same rugged outline, and were better clothed with
vegetation. From the top of one of a conical group, forming the north point
of the river where it changes to the eastward, I could trace its direction but
little further.

On the opposite side the hills receded, forming an amphitheatre round a level
plain, through which ran a creek. On its banks, for the first time, we saw
fires of the natives. Here, also for the first time, we noticed the gouty-stem
trees; whilst the slope of the hill we ascended was covered with a tolerable
sprinkling of grass. Kangaroos, likewise, were observed on every side
springing along the turf; and a few great alligators passed up the stream,
after reconnoitering our boat at the risk of a shot or two.

We were now nearly thirty miles from the ship; and a few stations were still
necessary to be made to complete the survey so far. Our proceeding farther
was therefore useless, especially as an exploring expedition must pass up the
river; and retracing our steps we reached the ship near midnight on the 20th.
The intelligence of the success of our cruise was received on board with an
enthusiasm which explorers only can appreciate. Mr. Fitzmaurice had not
returned, which favoured my surmises that he would find a river.

October 21.

Mr. Forsyth having collected all the necessary material for the survey near
the ship, we shifted our berth this afternoon into deeper water, between the
south end of Quoin Island and another small islet to the south-west, which
from our operations on its south-eastern corner we called Observation
Island. The weather was very remarkable in the evening--dark patches of
clouds appearing in the western horizon, from which vivid lightnings

flashed, and loud peals of thunder roared. The frightened stream of the sea-
birds evinced how seldom nature puts on such an aspect in this place.

CAPTAIN WICKHAM ASCENDS THE VICTORIA.

Before proceeding further with the ship, it was necessary to feel our way
with the boats. Whilst this was going on, Captain Wickham determined on
pushing up the river in the gig to ascertain if it was fresh sufficiently near to
water the ship from, when she had been taken as far up the Victoria as it was
possible. He left next morning on this more than interesting trip.

FITZMAURICE RIVER.

The same afternoon Mr. Fitzmaurice returned, having, as we had suspected,
discovered a river that carried his boat thirty miles in an east direction from
the south end of McAdam Range. Towards the upper part it was scarcely
half a mile wide; but for an Australian stream was remarkably free from
bends, pursuing a straight course between rocky heights, with a depth
varying from two to seven fathoms. Many shoals occurred towards the
entrance, where in some places it was more than two miles wide. This river
was named Fitzmaurice River after its discoverer; and the mouth or inlet of
it, after his companion, Keys Inlet.

In sounding the channel, I found that when the hill Captain Wickham and
myself were first on, behind Entrance Isle, was in a line with the north end
of the high land at the south side of the entrance, it formed a good lead up. In
consequence we named it Leading Hill, and the end of the range alluded to,
Indian Hill, from our constantly seeing smoke near it. A flat of three or four
fathoms at low-water extended across the channel, with River Peak bearing
between North 35 East and North 64 East. I visited Indian Hill, but failed to
meet with any of the natives, although I saw their fires not far off in the hills
to the south-west. It is a ridge covered with blocks of sandstone, with a few
trees here and there. From its summit I had an extensive view of the low land
stretching away to the northward, and forming the western side of the
channel. It appeared so cut up with creeks as to form a mass of islands and
mud flats, which appeared from the quantity of drift timber, to be frequently
overflowed, and partially so apparently at high spring tides. The farthest
high land I saw bore west about twelve miles.

MEMORIAL ON INDIAN HILL.

I left here a paper in a bottle, giving an account of our proceedings, and
should have been sorry to think, as Wallis did when he left a similar
document on a mountain in the Strait of Magellan, that I was leaving a
memorial that would remain untouched as long as the world lasts. No, I
would fain hope that ere the sand of my life-glass has run out, other feet than
mine will have trod these distant banks; that colonization will, ere many
years have passed, have extended itself in this quarter; that cities and
hamlets will have risen on the banks of the new-found river, that commerce
will have directed her track thither, and that smoke may rise from Christian
hearths where now alone the prowling heathen lights his fire. There is an
inevitable tendency in man to create; and there is nothing which he
contemplates with so much complacency as the work of his own hands. To
civilize the world, to subdue the wilderness, is the proudest achievement to
which he can look forward; and to share in this great work by opening new
fields of enterprise, and leading, as it were, the van of civilisation, fills the
heart with inexpressible delight. It is natural, therefore, as I traced the record
of our visit and deposited it on Indian Hill, that I should look forward in a
mood very far different from that of Wallis, to the speedy fruition of my
hopes.

October 27.

The winds for the last few days had been from West-North-West to North-
West, light after midnight to near noon, then moderate and sometimes fresh.
The tides, as they approached the springs, increased their velocity,
occasionally coming down in bores at the rate of four and five knots.

RETURN OF CAPTAIN WICKHAM.

Captain Wickham returned this morning, having discovered the river to be
fresh about seventy miles above the ship. For some distance it had not
decreased in size, which was very delightful news. I had been several times
on the point of inquiring on this subject; but fearing an unfavourable reply,
hesitated. Now my hopes were at their highest pitch, and I was quite
impatient to start on an expedition up the river.

On the 29th the ship was taken under my guidance up the river, as far as the
commencement of the long southerly reach. As the shoals in that part had not
been sufficiently examined, we proceeded to do so in the evening, and two
channels were discovered; one between a bank, dry at low-water, and a
covered patch of one and a half and two fathoms, and the other between the
covered bank and the east shore; the latter, although the narrower, I found to
be the better. The tides set direct through it, and to keep close to the bank is a
simple and sure guide. The least water is four fathoms, half a fathom more
than was found in the other, the direction of which crossed the set of the tide
when the bank on the west side became covered.

THE BEAGLE TAKEN UP THE VICTORIA.

Next morning we moved the ship three miles further up into a bight on the
east side from which Endeavour Hill bore West 13 South two miles and a
half.

The Beagle was now nearly fifty miles up the Victoria, and might have gone
seven miles further, but a valley holding out a hope that we might find water
by digging, and the distance at which the river was fresh being too great for
us to think of completing our stock from it, we anchored abreast of it. Whilst
on shore getting observations for the errors of the chronometers in the
afternoon, I could not avoid soliloquising as I gazed on the ship lying
surrounded by lofty rocky heights, that towered above her masts till they
appeared mere sticks. The contrast forcibly presented itself between the
comparative insignificance to which she was reduced by the elevation of the
hills around, and the majestic appearance she was accustomed to bear when
among the low lands of which we had seen so much. The sight reminded me
of early years of wandering within the narrow arms of the sea in Tierra del
Fuego, save and except there were not the forests of ages to hide the
nakedness of the land, which even there was clothed to the water's edge.

My companion reporting the instruments in the boat broke the reverie I was
indulging in; and on returning on board I found everyone busily preparing
for the expedition up the river.

CHAPTER 2.2.

Exploration of the Victoria.
First appearance of Sea Range.
Curiosity Peak.
Appearance of Country from.
Whirlwind Plains.
Encounter with an Alligator.
His capture and description.
Cross Whirlwind Plains.
White and black ducks.
Kangaroos.
Enter hilly country.
Meet the boats.
Thunderstorm.
Carry boats over shoals.
New birds.
Reach Hopeless.
Progress of boats arrested.
Reconnoitre the river.
Prospect from View Hill.
Preparation for pedestrian excursion.
Leave Reach Hopeless to explore the upper part of the river.
Native village.
Squall.
Muscle Bend.
Meet Natives.
Successful fishing.
Party distressed.
Thirsty Flat.
Tortoise Reach.
Singular appearance of the ranges.
Effect of the great heat.
One man knocked up.
Approach of natives.
Preparation for defence.
Appearance of the natives.
Move further up the river.
Emu Plains.
Select position for night quarters.

Upward course of the Victoria.
Commence return.
Kangaroo shot.
Wickham Heights.
New Tortoise.
Lucky Valley.
Race was with a native.
Meet his tribe.
They make off.
Hard day's work.
Quarters for the night.
Return to Reach Hopeless.

EXPLORATION OF THE VICTORIA.

The expedition, consisting of the two large boats and gig, with Captain
Wickham, who was to show them the watering place, left the ship early on
the morning of the 31st of October. I was to follow in one of the whaleboats,
and explore the upper parts in company with Captain Wickham; and after
completing the survey near the ship, I was at last fairly off to explore the
Victoria with the first glimmer of light the morning following, once more to
revel in scenes where all was new. How amply is the explorer repaid by such
sights for all his toils! To ascend a hill and say you are the first civilized man
that has ever trod on this spot; to gaze around from its summit and behold a
prospect over which no European eye has ever before wandered; to descry
new mountains; to dart your eager glance down unexplored valleys, and
unvisited glens; to trace the course of rivers whose waters no white man's
boat has ever cleaved, and which tempt you onwards into the bosom of
unknown lands: these are the charms of an explorer's life.

Mr. Forsyth accompanied me. We landed nearly opposite the rugged ridge I
have before mentioned, for a few angles and bearings. Here we found two
native rafts of precisely the same construction as those we had previously
seen on the North-west coast, formed out of nine poles. The shape the reader
will remember from the sketch in that part of the work, and with the
exception of only two instances, where they appeared merely temporary
affairs, we have noticed no other kind of rafts in use. Wherever this great

similarity in their mode of water-conveyance prevails, we may infer the
natives have had communication with each other.

FIRST APPEARANCE OF SEA RANGE.

We passed the night in the end of a crooked reach, near the only rocky islet
in the river, lying four miles East-South-East from the furthest point I had
before attained. With the exception of a squall from north-east in the
afternoon, there was scarcely any wind, and the night was cloudy with some
slight showers of rain. As the mosquitoes allowed us little rest, we were glad,
when the day broke, to be again moving. We now found the river take a
north-east direction for eight miles, averaging in width upwards of three-
quarters of a mile, and in depth at low-water two fathoms. A sudden change
in the trend of the reaches brought in sight the strange appearance of the
country represented in the woodcut annexed.

CURIOSITY PEAK.

The peak on the right bank we named, from the passion it assisted us in
gratifying, Curiosity Peak. Landing at the foot we were not long reaching the
summit, although the thermometer was 90 degrees in the shade. The river
formed a remarkable feature in the landscape before us, to the north-east;
and behind it rose a high table-range of hills, from five to six hundred feet in
elevation. These were capped with low reddish-coloured cliffs.

WHIRLWIND PLAINS.

At their feet stretched an extensive and seemingly boundless plain in a north-
east direction, whilst on the south-east side, and distant about eighteen miles
from where we stood, low ranges of hills were visible. Here and there over
the plains were many small whirlwinds appearing in the distance like streaks
of smoke curling upwards through the air. These, though affording relief to
the eye in the wide prospect that opened before us, are fraught with danger
when occurring on the river; for on one occasion they nearly upset the gig,

and threatened to consign its crew to a watery grave. In the present instance
they gave an impulse to our invention, suggesting the propriety of
designating the level tract of country before us, Whirlwind Plains. The high
land rising suddenly out of it, and bounding it very abruptly on the north-
west side, we named Sea Range. We could trace the river passing along at its
foot in an East-North-East direction for nine miles, when it appeared to cross
the plain; a large island lying midway changed its course for a short distance.

I found a strange kind of fruit growing in a hollow, near the top of Curiosity
Peak; the tree was small and leafless, with the fruit hanging in bunches about
the size of a damascene plum, of the colour of a peach, and containing a
large stone. I afterwards had a pie made of this fruit, which proved to be by
no means bad eating.

Besides the sandstone of which the peak is composed, I found a kind of slate
on the north-west side. Several banks showed themselves, leaving at that
time of tide scarcely a boat channel, although the river was a mile wide at
high-water. A great part of the day was occupied in collecting material for
the chart of this part, and we passed the night near the foot of Curiosity
Peak. On the grassy flat opposite, I killed five white ibises at a shot.

At sunset, I noticed large flocks of a rather small brown pigeon, constantly
flying from Whirlwind Plains to the north-west, and back again in the
morning. The mosquitoes did not give us any peace again this night.

ENCOUNTER AN ALLIGATOR.

November 3.

Starting early, we had just passed all the shoals in the neighbourhood of
Curiosity Peak, and entered a narrow part of the river, when the leadsman in
the bows of the boat reported, "A large alligator coming down the stream,
sir." Elated by the expectation of sport, we instantly grounded the boat on the
right bank to keep her steady, and waited anxiously for the monster's
approach. It will readily be believed, that every eye was fixed upon him as
he slowly advanced, scarcely disturbing the glassy surface of the water, and
quite unconscious of the fate that impended over him. At length he came
abreast, and about eighty yards off, only the flat crown of his head, and the

partly serrated ridge along his back, appearing in sight. It was a moment of
deep excitement for us all, and everyone held his breath in suspense as I
pointed my gun at the brute's head.

EFFECT OF A SHOT.

I felt confident of hitting my mark; but judging from the little effect I had
produced on former occasions, scarcely dreamt of the execution my ball
actually did. It happened that to-day I was in excellent practice, and had just
hit a large wild dog, a long shot, making him jump high off the ground; but
this beast is as tenacious of life as a cat, and instead of falling dead, he
limped off and escaped. But to resume: I fired, and never heard a ball strike
with more satisfaction in my life. It laid the alligator sprawling, feet
uppermost. There was no time to be lost in getting him on shore; two or
three strokes with the oars brought us alongside of the monster, as he floated
on the surface of the stream. The business was to attach a line to one of his
legs; and as we knew that he was not dead, but only stunned, this was rather
a nervous operation. I noticed indeed a hesitation among the men, as to who
should venture, and fearing lest our prize should escape, I seized the line and
made it fast to one of his fore-legs, when we proceeded to the shore,
dragging him alongside. Before reaching it, however, our friend gave signs
of reviving animation, and as we could not foresee to what extent he might
regain his activity, we dropped him astern, clear of the boat, fearing lest in
floundering about he might stave in her broadside. In doing so, moreover,
and by way of a sedative, I fired a charge of large shot at his head, the
muzzle of the gun not being a yard from it; and yet the only effect produced,
was a slight stupor of the intellectual faculties, evinced by a momentary state
of quiescence.

THE ALLIGATOR ON SHORE.

On reaching the shore, the men jumped out to haul the alligator up on the dry
land, and began to pull away vigorously. It was a comic scene to witness.
They expected to have some difficulty in performing their task; but suddenly
they found the rope slacken, and looking round beheld the alligator walking
up after them of his own accord, faster than was pleasant. In their haste,
endeavouring to keep the rope taut, one fellow tripped up; and it was for a
moment a question whether he would not be snapped in two; the feeling of

alarm, however, soon gave way to a sense of the ludicrous, at beholding the
manner in which he gathered himself up into a ball and rolled out of the
alligator's way. I thought it now high time to take decisive measures, and
with another shot altered the intentions of the monster, who endeavoured to
back towards the water. Perhaps if he had been further away from it, I might
have been tempted to try Waterton's experiment.

It was not before he had received six balls in the head, that he consented to
be killed. During the operation he exhibited something of his savoir faire, by
opening his mouth, that looked like a gigantic man-trap, and suddenly
shutting it with a loud snap, which made us shudder, and forcibly recalled to
mind the escape I had had a few days before, from having my body
embraced by such a pair of jaws.

The reader will gather a good idea of their size from the woodcut; and their
power of holding will be shown in the description accompanying. The view
annexed represents the moment when the alligator received the first shot on
shore; the singular character of Sea Range is also shown, and the small
whirlwinds I have alluded to, as having the appearance of smoke.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ALLIGATOR.

HEAD AND FEET OF ALLIGATOR.

Length of Alligator, 15 feet. From base of head to extreme of nose 2 feet 2
inches. Across the base of head, 2 feet. Length of lower jaw, 2 feet. Teeth in
both jaws, vary in size, and are variously disposed, as will be seen above; in
upper jaw on each side of maxillary bone, 18, 2 incisors. Ditto in lower jaw,
15, 2 incisors. The largest teeth are 1 1/2 inch in length. The two lower
incisors are stronger and longer than the upper, and project through two
holes in front part of upper jaw.

Breadth across the animal, from extreme of one fore foot, across the
shoulders to the other side, 5 feet 2 inches. The fore feet have each five
perfect toes; the three inner or first, have long horny nails, slightly curved;
the two outer toes have no nails, nor are they webbed. The third and fourth

toes are deeply webbed, allowing a wide space between them, which is
apparent even in their passive state. The hind feet have four long toes; the
first two are webbed as far as the first joint, and the others are strongly
webbed to the apex of last joint, the last or outer toe has no nail.

From the apex of tail, a central highly notched ridge runs up about midway
of it, and there splits into two branches, which pass up on each side of the
spine over the back, as far as the shoulders, gradually diminishing in height
to their termination.

A central ridge runs down from the nape of the neck over the spinous
processes of the vertebrae (being firmly attached to them by strong
ligaments) as far down as the sacrum, diminishing to its termination
likewise.

KILLING AN ALLIGATOR, VICTORIA RIVER.
G. Gore, del.
London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.

CONTENTS OF ITS STOMACH.

All the alligator's stomach contained was about fourteen pounds of pebbles,
some of them measuring four inches in diameter. We were some time
skinning the monster, and after securing a little of the best part of the flesh
for eating,* proceeded on our way.

(*Footnote. The writer supped off alligator steaks, and informs the reader
that the meat is by no means bad, and has a white appearance like veal.)

The river, as I have already said, ran along the base of Sea Range for some
distance, when it turned off across the plain in a south-east direction.

BANKS OF THE VICTORIA.

The high land quite overlooked the stream, and enhanced the picturesque
effect of the trees that rose in rich green masses on the banks, which were
here only about half a mile apart. The depth, however, was two fathoms,
double what it had been for some distance before. We had now fairly turned
our backs on Sea Range, and were crossing the plains in a south-east
direction. On the part of the Victoria we had passed were a few white ducks,
with black or very dark brown wings. I noticed that the bill and legs were of
a very pale pink, and they had a pale yellow eye. They were evidently the
same bird that I had seen at Port Essington.* They were scarce and not met
with in other parts of the river. Kangaroos were numerous on the banks, as
we entered the plain, and during the day were to be seen in numbers under
the bushes near the water's edge. I added one to our stock of fresh
provisions, which with alligator steaks and ducks, gave us a good supply to
share with the other boats. We named this part of the river Long Reach, from
its carrying us nine miles in a direct course, with a general width of a quarter
of a mile, and a depth of two and three fathoms. The banks were well
defined, in many places being a low line of cliffs six feet high, presenting to
our view several feet of brown soil, resting on a compact clay. This is the
general character of this extensive plain; and from the small size of the trees,
chiefly white gums, that are thinly scattered over it, we may infer that it is
land of recent formation. Two miles from the end of Long Reach, we passed
a sandy head, where the tide rises from three to ten feet.

(*Footnote. Figured by Mr. Gould, as Tadorna radjah.)

The river now took a south by west direction, for nearly two miles, a little
narrower, but three fathoms deep throughout. Towards the latter part the
banks were fringed with mangroves of a small and singularly even growth,
resembling a clipped garden shrubbery. Our course again changed to south-
east, entering the low range of hills bounding the south-eastern side of
Whirlwind Plains. It was long after dark when we reached so far. We had
passed the watering boats some distance further down on their way to the
ship. Our sudden meeting in the dark on the lonely river, had a singular and
romantic effect. Being anxious to join the gig, we pushed on, and at
midnight were surprised by a loud call from Captain Wickham, who lay
beneath the shadow of a high bank. It was a strange sound, this English hail,
to hear echoed in these wild hills, where only the shrill cry of the savage had
been borne on the blast before!

THUNDERSTORM.

I was sorry to find, that the tide did not at present rise sufficient to admit the
large boats into the fresh water, so that getting a load would have been a very
long operation, had it not been for a tremendous fall of rain that followed a
thunderstorm, deluging every pool, and at once affording the means of
filling the casks. This storm began at South-East and drew round by east to
North-West, from which quarter it blew strong for an hour. The torrents of
rain lasted two hours, and cooled the air so rapidly, as in that time to reduce
the thermometer from 92 to 82 degrees. This change was so sudden, that it
made those who felt it shiver as if it were the depth of winter, and RUSH
INTO THE RIVER WATER TO KEEP THEMSELVES WARM.

November 4.

Both boats proceeded up the river at daylight. We started from the end of
Short Reach, trending East-North-East, and about four miles within the
range of hills, on the South-East side of the Plains. The first reach led us a
mile and a half in a South-East direction, and at the end of it a flat of large
boulders extended; across this we dragged the boats easily. The river now
took a turn from East-North-East to North, and at the end of a mile we came
to another extensive flat, quite dry. There was a deep pool below it, with a
precipitous hill, 350 feet high, on the eastern side. This we called Steep
Head, and its singular dark cliffy face, frowning over the placid waters, gave

an air of grandeur to the scenery. Stretched out on the face of these cliffs, we
left the skin of our friend the alligator, to be taken to the ship by the watering
boats when they returned.

SHOALS IN THE RIVER.

There was now heavy work before us, with the thermometer at 93 degrees in
the shade: we had to drag the boats over the large flat that impeded our
progress. The way was made as smooth as possible, and plenty of rollers
laid, but an unlucky stone found its way through the thin plank of the gig.
Captain Wickham acted as head carpenter in repairing the damage, which
occupied so much time that it was dark before the boats were floated in the
deep water beyond. We dined on the bank, by the light of a lantern hung on a
tree. The tide at this place only rose two feet.

SCENERY ON ITS BANKS.

November 5.

Taking advantage of the cool of the morning, we moved off with the early
dawn. A fine sheet of water lay before us, and everything promised well. The
vegetation looked stronger and richer. Above the growth of acacias and
drooping gums, that leant over the banks kissing their reflection in the
limpid waters, rose on each side high broken ranges. Their heights had round
summits, just beneath which, in some, could be traced a low line of cliffs, so
singularly characteristic of Sea Range. The very marked dip in the strata did
not extend beyond the latter, and here I could not detect any. Flights of large
vampires, whistling ducks, many-coloured parakeets, and varieties of small
birds, made the river quite alive, and their continued cry of alarm gave
vivacity to the scene, and disturbed the stillness that had reigned there for
years. Every living thing is terrified at the sight of man. This reach of the
Victoria enabled Mr. Bynoe to add two new birds to his collection; one, a
species of pigeon, but resembling a small quail in its habits and size; the
cerae of the nose, the beak and the feet, were a pigeon's, but the flight and
the manner of running along the ground, where it kept, were those of a quail.
It was found in small families of eight or a dozen, very wild and scarce, and
was only seen in this part of the river. The only one we were able to get, had
a very long pointed crest. The colour was a light red, with a white chin and a

black band across the throat; the tips of the wings were slightly bronzed. It is
figured in Mr. Gould's work, from this specimen, as Geophaps plumifera.

SINGULAR BIRD.

The other bird was of a species, that at first sight appeared to be a teal. It
went in small flocks, and as it got on the wing made a long shrill plaintive
kind of note. The deep glossy rifle-green colour of their back, and the
transparent streak of white across the wing, gave them a most beautiful
appearance, as the sun's rays lit up their rich plumage in their circuitous
flight round the boat. Their number did not exceed twenty, and they too were
only seen on this part of the river. They were also very wary, which is
singular in the inhabitants of a wilderness, almost totally unfrequented by
man. We only got one specimen, by which we found that it had the head and
bill of a goose. It was indeed quite a goose in miniature. Although we never
before or afterwards met with this bird, it was seen at Port Essington, though
of inferior plumage, some time in 1840, and a specimen was obtained, from
which Mr. Gould has named it Nettapus pulchellas. The whistling duck of
the Adelaide River, was also only seen on this part of the Victoria.

After proceeding north-east one mile and a half, and east two miles, we
came to a pretty little islet covered with palms and acacias, and rich long
grass. Numbers of large white waterlilies grew on its banks. The river was
now only an eighth of a mile wide, and two fathoms deep. This still
promised well. Scarcely, however, had we indulged in the hope that the
Victoria might yet convey the boats many miles into the interior, when a
shoal appeared.

PROGRESS OF THE BOATS ARRESTED.

Over this we got tolerably well, but at the end of two miles in an East-South-
East direction from Palm Island, all hopes were at an end of proceeding
farther in the boats, as for a great extent the river was impassable for them.
We found there was a large sheet of water beyond, and then another dry
patch. It would therefore have been useless labour to attempt dragging the
boats over any more of the dry parts. Two conical-shaped hills, so much
alike that we called them the Brothers, bore North by West 1/2 West one
mile.

The thermometer was 101 degrees at noon in the shade. I shot some very
large dark-coloured ducks in the afternoon. Kangaroos were numerous. The
water was fresh soon after passing Palm Island.

That we were thus finally deterred from proceeding farther with the boats,
was a source of deep mortification. Since the great flat we had experienced
so much difficulty in getting over yesterday, all had gone well. Each turn in
the river appeared more beautiful, and brought something new to increase
our interest; and we fondly imagined that great discoveries were in store for
us. But the fates had decreed otherwise, and we were compelled to pause,
after having ascended in the boats from the ship above 75 miles. We named
this reach, in consequence, Reach Hopeless.

November 6.

It being evidently impracticable to proceed higher up in the boats; a small
party of us landed at daylight, in order to ascend a neighbouring height, and
thence to trace as far as possible the upward course of the river, preparatory
to a pedestrian excursion along its banks. Before sunrise we reached the
summit of a narrow ridge, trending East-South-East 1/2 a mile east, from
where the boats were lying: in this singular ridge I again noticed the dip to
the south-east: it was composed of a variety of rocks, jasper, a greyish kind
of flinty indifferent limestone, and greywacke.

SINGULAR APPEARANCE OF THE RIVER.

The view from it was very limited, the valley of the river turning short to the
northward, two miles east by south of our position, to which we gave the
name of Station Hill. Before I had finished my round of angles, the heat had
become so great that some of our party were compelled to return to the
boats, whilst myself, with two of the men, pushed on for nearly two miles in
an easterly direction, along the foot of some table-topped hills, and were
then gratified with another peep at the river, which had a very singular
appearance, in some places nearly dry, discovering a wide bed of large
pebbles: long narrow islands, whose shape attested the former rapidity of the
currents, covered with reeds and acacias, and deep pools of standing water,
were its most characteristic features. Several kangaroos, alarmed by our
approach, hastily quitted their cool hidingplaces, presenting beautiful shots;

but as the traces of natives were both recent and numerous, we thought it
most prudent to reserve our fire, and shortly after, upon finding a native fire
still alight, to keep the open ground as much as possible. We travelled for a
long mile over a level flat of good soil, though now quite destitute of
vegetation, save some beautiful specimens of the truly evergreen gumtree.

PROSPECT FROM VIEW HILL.

At length we reached the summit of View Hill, and no effervescing draught
could have proved more really refreshing than the south-east breeze which
greeted us there. It is separated from the ranges to the southward by a deep
narrow valley. We noticed from it that the river evidently increased in size,
as traced upwards, and I was very glad to find that the delight I experienced
in making this discovery, was shared by my companions. We traced it east
for two long miles--a deep broad and picturesque stream: beyond that limit it
took a more southerly direction, apparently behind some high tableland
(Table Hill) 200 feet high. Beyond, and on the eastern side of the valley of
the river, rose a high peak, crowned by a remarkable block of stone, to which
we gave the name of The Tower. I made a sketch of the scenery, and took a
round of angles, and then we returned to the boats. On our arrival we found
the thermometer had been as high as 110 degrees at one P.M. The afternoon
was occupied in selecting a party of five out of the boats' crews, for a
pedestrian excursion; and at night, jaded as we were, it was almost
impossible to sleep, owing to the screeching noise of the vampires, and the
howling of the native dogs.

PREPARATIONS FOR A PEDESTRIAN EXCURSION.

November 7.

Making slings and packing provisions for an early start to-morrow morning
occupied the greater part of the day. Mr. Bynoe, as he had done yesterday,
added to his valuable collection a few rare birds, and strange plants; while I
took several readings of the barometer, morning and evening, for the
elevation of the bed of the river: the mean gave a resulting height of thirty
feet.

Our bivouac at Reach Hopeless, was under the shade of a cluster of drooping
gumtrees, which secreted in their thick foliage, numbers of a bird figured by
Mr. Gould as Tripidorhynchus argenticeps. These kept up a constant
amusing chatter, in which we could frequently detect an exact imitation of
the words Walk Up, when spoken sharply. A kangaroo Mr. Bynoe had shot,
and hung on a tree, drew the attention of birds of prey, consisting of two
kinds of hawks, one of a dark brown, almost black, and another a lighter
shade of the same colour, resembling copper, with a great deal of white
about the head; so that we were surrounded with feathered companions.

The wind as usual was East-North-East in the morning, and North-West in
the evening. The thermometer ranged from 97 to 112 degrees during the day,
and fell to 90 degrees at night; during which we noticed several meteors in
the north and north-west falling perpendicularly.

November 8.

Our little band left the boats before daylight, the morning being agreeably
cool (temperature 85 degrees). Captain Wickham had intended heading this
most interesting expedition himself, but feeling indisposed, the party was
eventually placed under my command, and in addition to myself, consisted
of Mr. Bynoe, surgeon; Mr. Forsyth, mate; George Knox, Robert Gower, and
William Willing, seamen; John Brown, and Richard Martin, marines.
Besides provisions for six days, and arms, we had with us the following
instruments: large sextant, small sextant, artificial horizon, chronometer, two
compasses, spyglass, watch, lantern, and measuring tape.

Our route was that of yesterday to View Hill, and we reached the river a mile
to the eastward by half-past seven A.M. We halted here for ten minutes to
skin a kangaroo, which I had shot as we crossed the plain; a piece of good
fortune that induced me to determine upon leaving a part of our provisions at
the first convenient spot. We found the banks of the river thickly clothed
with tall reeds, through which with some difficulty we forced our way. To
the north-west the high land receded from the river, having an extensive, and
apparently alluvial flat between its base and the course of the stream.

After a brief halt, we proceeded in an East 16 degrees South direction. Two
miles good walking brought us to the head of a deep gully, the banks of

which were covered with tall reeds; we followed its course nearly due north
to the river, which it joined near the foot of the high land I have before
spoken of. The bed of the stream was dry here in patches for half a mile. As
none of our party had been recently accustomed to much pedestrian exercise,
and we had been travelling for nearly five hours over a broken country, and
in a temperature varying from 87 to 100 degrees in the shade, I thought it
time to halt and dine. While dinner was being prepared, Mr. Bynoe and
myself shot three brace of rare ducks, of a small light grey kind, in the pools
near. I afterwards accompanied Mr. Forsyth to get some bearings from an
elevation on the north side of the river.

COURSE OF THE VICTORIA.

Towards the south-east we perceived a very decided break in the hills,
through which I hoped to trace the course of the Victoria, that being the
direction of the centre of this vast continent: in this however we were
disappointed, for the river turned short round to the north-east. The banks
were so high, and so thickly covered with tall reeds, that it was only by the
very green appearance of the trees about its banks that its course could be
made out. The temperature at one P.M. in the sun was 127 degrees. Knowing
how impossible it was to avoid being tracked by the natives, should they
wish it, even upon the hardest ground, and that in the event of their doing so
any buried stores would be forthwith discovered, and yet anxious to
disencumber the party of any superfluous load, I directed one of the men to
take the 8-pound canister of preserved meat and throw it into a thick cluster
of reeds and palms, about thirty yards distant; and after taking a set of sights
for longitude, recommenced our journey to half-past three P.M. in a north-
east direction; passing through a lightly timbered plain, that had been
evidently at no distant date exposed to the ravages of fire. At half-past four
we came to a bend of the river, trending North 56 degrees East and South 22
degrees West. Passing several trees still on fire near the river, after another
short halt, which the state of the atmosphere no less than the nature of the
ground rendered desirable, we resumed our north-east course, but were
compelled to make a considerable westerly detour, in order to clear the deep
watercourses intersecting the banks at this place, and which, extending
nearly to the base of the hills, rendered the fatigues and labours of the march
additionally and needlessly heavy.

NATIVE VILLAGE.

Just before dark we came upon a native village, near the foot of a bare rocky
hill, having a northern aspect, and lying about one mile south-west of the
river. It contained thirteen huts of paper-bark, standing in a bare stony plain,
and with no signs of being at this time inhabited. We found here
considerable difficulty in forcing our way through the tall and thickly
growing reeds which lined the bank. The next reach in the river trended
North-West for about a mile, and then turned off North-North-East at the
foot of a high rocky range. The next turn in the course brought us upon a yet
burning native fire. Under ordinary circumstances such an indication of the
near presence of natives, of whose intentions, whether hostile or otherwise, I
had no means of judging, would have induced me to take up open quarters
for the night, which was now closing in upon us; but the threatening aspect
of the sky to the south-east led me to prefer a spot sheltered by the luxuriant
foliage which here fringed the river's banks.

VIOLENT SQUALL.

The squall reached us at seven. The wind, which had been at south-east,
veering to north, and the thermometer falling five degrees; it lasted for about
an hour, during which time the harsh screams of the affrighted birds--the
moaning of the wind--the awful roll of thunder, and the fearful brilliancy of
the lightning, combined to supply all the terrible beauty which invests such
scenes; especially when they surprise the startled adventurer upon his
unknown path, and add their hostile influence to the unreckoned dangers that
await his progress. The only means we had of preserving our only suit of
clothes dry from the drenching showers of rain was by taking them off, and
stuffing them into the hollow of a tree, which in the darkness of the night we
could do with propriety.

Within an hour the weather had cleared up, and was as fine as before the
squall. The change came just in time for me to secure a meridian altitude of
Achernar, which, with a set of sights for time, completed the requisite
observations. We noticed a singular meteor in the East-South-East about 8
o'clock this evening, darting perpendicularly UPWARDS: it lasted for ten
seconds: between the hour mentioned and midnight, we saw a great many,
passing chiefly from south-east to north-west. At nine, having set the

watches for the night, we lay down to sleep, and passed a quiet night with a
temperature of 85 degrees, and a north-west wind.

November 9.

We started early the following morning, after having obtained a set of
bearings, and followed the bank of the river to the north-west for half a mile,
then forded it and took a north-easterly direction, passing close to the foot of
some hills forming the south side of the valley of the river, which at this
place is scarcely a mile wide. High tableland formed the west side of it, and
low broken ranges trending east, bounded it in that direction.

MUSSEL BEND.

The bend above where we slept we called Mussel Bend, from our finding
several there: they appeared similar to those found by Oxley in the
Macquarie. The country over which we travelled the first part of the day was
exceedingly stony, and wore a most uninviting appearance.

While the party halted to skin a kangaroo I had been so fortunate as to shoot;
I ascended the top of a neighbouring hill to make a sketch, and get some
bearings. From this elevation I traced the river in a north-west direction for
three miles, and I gazed with rapture, only known to the discoverer, upon a
clear and magnificent expanse of water, yet greatly dismayed at its northerly
direction. To the north-east was an extensive and apparently alluvial flat;
while to the westward, the high land approached the river. It is worthy of
remark, that so far as our observation extended, wherever the hills approach
the river on one side they recede from it on the other.

DISCOVERED BY NATIVES.

Continuing in a more easterly direction in order to avoid the deep
watercourses near the banks, we found the country wore a much less arid
appearance, and changing our direction to North-North-West in order to
ascend some high ranges distant two miles and a half, overlooking the east
bank of the river, we came suddenly upon some native tracks, and presently
surprised two children, who scampered down the bank in very natural alarm,
and were soon lost among the tall reeds. A little further on we passed within

200 yards of three women carrying bundles of bark at their backs; their
anxiety for their children had allowed us to approach thus close unseen; but
no sooner were we discovered, than they raised a shout which was answered
from the heights on our right, and from the banks of the river on our left, by
parties evidently too numerous to render it prudent to attempt a nearer
meeting. We therefore held on our way without appearing to notice them.
They were quite naked, with the exception of a slight covering of bark round
their waists. We halted at half-past ten A.M. in an open spot in the dry bed of
the river, overlooked by a high table hill. Our party looked very much
distressed from their half-day's work. The weather had been very close, and
a good deal of the walking over broken ground; and these circumstances,
coupled with the fact that the thermometer stood at 107 degrees in the shade,
and that all had been for a long time cooped up in a small vessel, will fully
explain and account for the general fatigue.

SUCCESSFUL FISHING.

In a pool of the river near our resting place, I caught, within an hour, some
dozen good-sized fish: using a bait of kangaroo flesh. There were two sorts,
one of the shape of a trout, and ten inches long; it had a dirty orange-yellow
belly, and a muddy bronze back; the lower hole of the nose had a raised
margin. The other measured seven inches, and resembled in shape a small
fish at home, known to all schoolboys as the prickle-back; it was curiously
marked, having five spots nearly black on each side, near the ridge of the
back; the ground around them was a dark glossy brown; the belly was a
slightly shining white, reaching as far up as the lower line of the eye and the
margin of the spots.

While Mr. Bynoe was occupied in making sketches of them, which have
been transmitted to Dr. Richardson, Mr. Forsyth and myself ascended a
neighbouring hillock, and traced the river in a westerly direction for two
miles; it then turned round to North-North-East: a deep narrow valley
separated it from the higher land to the eastward. The bed of the river at this
place, though partly dry, was wider than we had hitherto seen it, and the
trees upon its banks still showed evident signs of being washed by a
mountain torrent. After making a set of observations for longitude, we
started again at 3 o'clock P.M. taking a north-west direction over a flat of
tolerably fine light mould. Near here a party of natives crossed the river, in

the direction of those we had first seen: perhaps to effect a junction of forces
and demand the meaning of our strange intrusion. We took an East 1/2 North
direction across the flat, but finding the ground very broken and stony,
intersected by deep watercourses, and rendered additionally impracticable by
high grass and thick reeds, we were compelled, after getting half across, to
make the best of our way to the river.

FATIGUE OF THE PARTY.

It was intensely hot, not a breath of air stirring, and to add to our
misfortunes, we had inadvertently dined off the contents of a canister of salt
meat. We reached the river at half-past five, being all of us pretty well
knocked up with heat, fatigue, and thirst: one of our party, I heard
afterwards, drank nearly TWO QUARTS of water at a draught.

Further on in this reach, I determined to occupy quarters for the night; it was
wide and deep, trending East by South, but shut in about a mile above our
present position by a dry patch of stones, with clear banks on either side. As
we were now in what appeared to be a rather thickly populated district of the
country, it was requisite to choose a position beyond the reach of sudden
attack. Having consulted our security as much as possible in this particular, I
took, before dark, the necessary bearings and angles for the survey, and was
delighted to observe that the valley of the river again trended away to the
southward. We had a cool breeze after dark from the north-west, and the
thermometer went down to 90 degrees. I had scarcely secured observations
for latitude and longitude, before a squall from the south-east, accompanied
by heavy rain, recalled the scene of last night.

CHARM OF DISCOVERY.

The same screams from the same kind of birds, disturbed in their roosting
places, and the same mournful howling of the wind, as it swept fitfully
through the trees that overshadowed us, broke the silence that had reigned
around our solitary fire, and exercised their wondrous power over the
imagination. In a few moments my thoughts were borne on to the very heart
of this mysterious country, over many a dreary plain, where thirst, fatigue,
and hunger were all forgotten. It is impossible to define the exact nature of
the charm which particular minds find in the perils and adventures of

discovery, whether on the shore or over the wave. Certain, however, it is,
that scarce any motive of human exertion can compete with it in the powers
of endurance it supplies to its votaries.

The squall served to clear the air, and was succeeded by a cool breeze from
the north-west. The thermometer down to 87 degrees.

THIRSTY FLAT.

Yet cool, as comparatively speaking, the nights are here, still I could not but
remark that the ground never became so; and this I imagine to be one of the
principal causes of that fatigue from which some of our party suffered so
much: during my watches I invariably noticed some poor fellow or another
vainly trying to secure the rest of which he stood so much in need: rolling
with restless anxiety from side to side, and sometimes in absolute despair,
starting up on his feet: neither could I fail to note the wearying effect these
broken slumbers produced, symptoms of which showed themselves more
plainly each morning.

Having provided myself with the means of calculating the latitude, I worked
the observations I had taken during the night. It placed the spot of our
bivouac in 15 degrees 29 minutes South. We estimated our distance from the
boats, having carefully timed ourselves each march, at 23 miles; 10 in an
east, general direction, and 13 North-East by North.

November 10.

We pushed onwards in the cool of the morning, taking a South 20 degrees
West direction, for three miles, crossing the eastern part of the flat to which
we yesterday gave the name of Thirsty Flat, and found the soil a light mould,
covered with long dry grass. This brought us to a bend in the river, trending
in rather a tortuous manner east, and passing through a wide valley, with
table ranges, varying from 5 to 600 feet on either side. Towards their
summits there were perpendicular cliffs of some 30 or 40 feet, similar to the
high land of Sea Range. The country just here was so thickly wooded that I
was obliged to climb a tree in order to get the bearings. We noticed some
very curious black horizontal streaks on the hills in our immediate vicinity.
We crossed the river, or rather over its bed--a patch of stones--and found

some shells of the water-tortoise at the remains of a native fire on the bank:
we named the reach Tortoise Reach, in consequence. Here too Mr. Bynoe
added some rare and beautiful specimens of finches to his collection.

ENERVATING EFFECT OF THE GREAT HEAT.

The cool north-west wind had now deserted us, and though yet scarcely nine
o'clock A.M. the thermometer stood at 105 degrees. I had again the good
fortune to shoot a kangaroo: it was a long cross-shot, the animal going at
speed. Our route now lay across a barren stony plain, of which the
vegetation it might once have boasted had been burnt off: the blackened
ground, heated by the fierce rays of the sun, seemed still to us on fire. In
crossing a creek which lay in our path, and which we managed to do by
means of a fallen tree, Mr. Forsyth showed symptoms of being struck with
the sun, but a little water, which I was happy enough to get from the creek,
revived him. Several others of the party also complained of the trying effects
of the great heat; after a short rest, I therefore determined on making for the
river, which we arrived at in half an hour, near a bed of dry rocks, but with
the reaches on either side wide and deep, and shut in by steep banks. By this
time one of the men was seriously indisposed; all hopes, therefore, of
proceeding much further upon this most interesting expedition I was
compelled, though very reluctantly, to abandon. This was still the more a
subject of deep regret, because the present width, and the south-easterly
direction which the river now appeared to take, gave me just hopes that great
progress might be made in the desired direction in the course of another day:
while I felt satisfied that we were abandoning the course of a river whose
undiminished magnitude made each mile's journey along its banks of
increased interest, and which I felt convinced would, if followed out,
conduct us far towards the heart of this terra incognita.

The weather continued calm and close; temperature at noon, in the shade 110
degrees. I noticed a difference in the bed of the river at the place where we
prepared dinner: hitherto the dry spots, which from time to time we passed
over, or halted upon, were strewn about with large boulders; here, however,
we were encamping near a very remarkable rocky ledge, dipping to the
south-east, and of the same character as the rocks on the sea coast, when
seen at low-water.

APPROACH OF NATIVES.

Scarcely had we disposed of our invalid as comfortably as circumstances
would admit, under a bank overshadowed by acacias and gumtrees, when we
heard the shrill voices of an evidently large body of natives, concealed by
the foliage on the opposite bank of the river, which was just here quite dry,
and not more than eighty yards across.

PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE.

As I had no means of knowing either their number or intentions, it was
necessary to make the best preparations that time and place would allow for
defence, should it unhappily become necessary: a contingency which, in the
debilitated condition of all the party, now too deprived altogether of the aid
of one of its members, I could not contemplate without some anxiety. I
directed the men to occupy such situations in the long grass as would give
the most deceptive appearance to our numbers, and stationed Mr. Bynoe, Mr.
Forsyth, and myself where, if required, we could act most effectually. These
preparations were hardly complete, when two natives, accompanied by a
large cream-coloured dog that howled mournfully, came down suddenly,
shouting "Ho! ho!" upon the opposite bank, as though more clearly to
reconnoitre our position. They were fine looking men, with bushy hair and
spare limbs, quite naked, and apparently unarmed--a usual indication among
the aborigines of Australia that their intentions are peaceful. They amused
themselves for a time by making all sorts of gestures, shouting still "ho! ho!"
to those of their body in concealment, from whom they had probably been
detached for observation. What they thought of us, strange intruders as we
must have appeared to them, it is not possible fully even to imagine; at any
rate they seemed impressed with some sort of respect either for our
appearance, jaded as we were, or our position, and forbore any nearer
approach. I was of course very glad that no appeal to force was necessary: in
the first place I should very reluctantly have resorted to it against those to
whom we appeared in the character of invaders of a peaceful country, and in
the second, had one of our party been wounded, the consequent delay would
have rendered our return to the boats certainly a work of great difficulty,
perhaps wholly impossible; for no considerations of expediency would in my
mind have justified the abandonment of a defenceless comrade, wounded in
the common cause, either to the natural dangers and privations of the

country, or the barbarous revenge of its inhabitants. They continued in force,
upon the opposite bank, for some time, and then gradually withdrew. I may
remark that the condition and appearance of the two who made themselves
visible, indicated their residence in a country fitted to supply abundantly all
natural wants. I should also state that I could not perceive that extraordinary
exaggeration of a certain Jewish ceremony, that prevailed in one part of King
Sound.

APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES.

It is to be regretted that our position would not allow us to seek the
acquaintance of these people. I could not help comparing the bold, fearless
manner in which they came towards us--their fine manly bearing, head erect,
no crouching or quailing of eye--with the miserable objects I had seen at
Sydney. I now beheld man in his wild state; and, reader, rest assured there is
nothing can equal such a sight. Before me stood two of the aboriginal
inhabitants of Australia who had never, until then, encountered the hitherto
blighting look of a European.

After a long rest, we were enabled to move on again slowly in the cool of the
evening, along the south bank of the river, followed by one of the native
dogs, that differed only from those I had seen on other parts of the coast, in
being rather larger.

EMU PLAINS.

Two miles further brought us into a fine open plain, over which two emus
were going best pace; we therefore named it in their honour: while the valley
to the southward was christened after the Beagle, and the ranges on either
side bore the names of her former and present commander: those to the
north-east and south-west were called, after the officers who accompanied
me, Forsyth and Bynoe Ranges. The soil on Emu Plains was far superior to
any we had seen since leaving the boat, and was lightly and picturesquely
timbered with the white gum. We were very cautious in choosing our
sleeping berth for the night, to avoid a surprise during the dark; we therefore
selected a friendly hollow beneath the stem of a straggling and drooping old
gumtree, large enough to conceal the whole party, near the centre of a great

patch of pebbles, with the river, on one side, within a hundred yards of us,
and on the other, distant about three hundred.

Those who are practically conversant with such positions as this, will readily
call to mind what a safeguard from any nightly approach was afforded by the
loose pebbles that surrounded us, upon which not even the unshod foot of a
native could fall without so much of accompanying noise as would serve to
put the watch with his ear to the ground upon the qui vive: this was proved
to be the case during the night, when we distinctly heard the footsteps of the
prowling savages. We had no squall, and except this interruption, the
howling of native dogs, and the shrill peculiar whistle of a flock of vampires
constantly flying backwards and forwards over our heads, we slept in peace
in our comfortable little retreat.

UPWARD COURSE OF THE VICTORIA.

Our last regretful view of this part of the Victoria--for every member of our
little band seemed to feel an equal interest in the subject--was taken from a
position in latitude 15 degrees 36 minutes and longitude 130 degrees 52
minutes East; 140 miles distant from the sea: but still 500 miles from the
centre of Australia. Its apparent direction continued most invitingly from the
southward--the very line to the heart of this vast land, whose unknown
interior has afforded so much scope for ingenious speculation, and which at
one time I had hoped, that it was reserved for us to do yet more in reducing
to certainty. And though from the point upon which I stood to pay it my last
lingering farewell, the nearest reach of water was itself invisible, yet far, far
away I could perceive the green and glistening valleys through which it
wandered, or rather amid which it slept; and the refreshing verdure of which
assured me, just as convincingly as actual observation could have done, of
the constant presence of a large body of water; and left an indelible
impression upon my mind, which subsequent consideration has only served
to deepen, that the Victoria will afford a certain pathway far into the centre
of that country, of which it is one of the largest known rivers.

When I had at length most reluctantly made up my mind that all further
progress along the banks of the Victoria must be abandoned, I left the spot of
our temporary encampment, and proceeded alone a short distance in the
direction of the interior; as though partly to atone, by that single and solitary

walk towards the object of my eager speculation, for the grievous
disappointment I experienced at being compelled to return. It was
something, even by this short distance, to precede my companions in the
exciting work of discovery--to tread alone the solitary glades upon which,
till now, no native of the civilized West had set his foot--and to muse in
solemn and unbroken silence upon the ultimate results of the work to which
the last few days had been devoted--to mark the gradual but certain
progression of civilization and christianity--and to breathe forth,
unwitnessed and uninterrupted, the scarce coherent words of thankful
adoration for the providential care which had hitherto sustained and directed
us.

RETURN HOMEWARDS.

November 12.

I found our invalid so much recovered to-day, that I determined on making a
short march homewards in the cool of the early morning. We reached
Tortoise Reach by 8 o'clock A.M. where we passed the day. During our
morning's walk I again had the luck to knock over a kangaroo. It was a
female, and had a very young one in its pouch. It is worthy of remark that
most of those I killed were does, with young ones of different ages, which
afforded Mr. Bynoe the means of making some interesting observations on
the manner in which they are brought forth, which will be found further on
in the part of the work relating to Houtman's Abrolhos, where more
opportunities occurred of arriving at a satisfactory result. Mr. Bynoe added
here to his collection of birds, to which also, I was so fortunate as to be able
to contribute a beautiful specimen of a rifle-green glossy ibis, common in
Europe. I tried the water with a very roughly manufactured fly: the fish rose
repeatedly at it, though there was scarcely a ripple, and notwithstanding my
own want of success under these unpropitious circumstances, I feel perfectly
satisfied that with proper tackle, and on a favourable day, this prince of
sports might be enjoyed on the Victoria.

WICKHAM HEIGHTS.

WICKHAM HEIGHTS FROM TORTOISE REACH.

I availed myself of the opportunity of our halt at this place to wash my only
suit, piece by piece, and afterwards made a sketch of the north-eastern part
of Wickham Heights from the dry flat in the reach. The woodcut annexed
will convey at once to the reader, those singular features in the hills--the
low line of cliffs resembling fortifications near their summit, and, still more
remarkable, the horizontal black streaks near their base.

NEW TORTOISE.

We here found the back-shell of one of the largest of the water-tortoises,
from which the reach was named. It measured ten inches, was very narrow
at the fore part, where the continuous line of the margin was broken by an
arch where the head protrudes, and was much expanded posteriorly. It
resembled greatly the Chelidona oblonga, inhabiting Western Australia,
with the exception of the arch and its more oval shape; and as in that kind,
the last vertebral plate was divided by a suture. A shell of a Victoria River
tortoise has been deposited in the British Museum. We here noticed many
varieties of turbinated shells, and among them a small buccinum; beside
mussels. At a native fireplace I saw heaps of the latter, as well as the bones
of young alligators; portions of the jaws with teeth were picked up.

The temperature during the day ranged from 90 to 105 degrees in the shade.
A light breeze from north-west in the evening succeeded a long calm.
Before sunset I got a peep at the eastern side of a valley, before noticed, in

the direction of our route back, and felt convinced that by crossing it we
should avoid Thirsty Flat, and shorten the route to the boats.

LUCKY VALLEY.

November 13.

Our walk this morning fully realized all my expectations of the preceding
evening, for by 8 o'clock A.M. we reached the dining place of the second
day. To record the satisfaction we felt in escaping a second journey over
Thirsty Flat, by following the valley we had seen yesterday evening, we
named it Lucky Valley. After a brief halt, we pushed on, and by eleven,
were at our old quarters in Mussel Bend. We heard the voices of natives in
all directions, far and near, and as I found the party still astonishingly fresh,
and eager to proceed, I thought it best to keep going. We therefore
continued our journey, and just before dark reached the spot where we had
dined the first day. Here, however, the cheerful excitement of our pleasant
and shady walk through Lucky Valley having gone off, the men felt the
effects of their long day's march, and were all more or less knocked up.

RACE WITH A NATIVE.

Near the river, as we were approaching our intended bivouac, we came
upon a native walking leisurely across the plain, and so intently occupied in
poising and straightening his spear, and fixing it in the throwing stick, that
he allowed me, being in advance of the rest, to get within sixty yards of
him: I then loudly hailed him. He cast one look of utter and indescribable
astonishment at the strange being who thus interrupted his pathway over his
native soil, and was off at the top of his speed. Little anticipating that I
should soon have to test in earnest the fleetness of these people, I tried rates
with him for a short distance, and remarked, with surprise, that he had not
that superiority of speed which might have been expected. Perhaps fright
deprived him of his full powers, for what must have been his sensations on
finding himself almost cut off by a party of beings whose very existence
was till then unknown to him? I have since half regretted that I did not see
how much nearer I could have approached without discovery, but at the
time I did not wish to frighten him too far. To have got so near as I did will
seem almost incredible to those who recollect the wary character, and the

peculiarly restless and vigilant eye of the savage: some strong emotion of
love or hate had for the time perhaps rendered him quite unconscious of all
surrounding objects!

We came on the river over a steep bank covered with high reeds, and as a
party of natives were distinctly audible below, myself, Mr. Forsyth, and Mr.
Bynoe led the way. The natives crossed immediately, and were visible for a
few moments through the foliage on the other side: however, they appeared
but to wait in order to verify the astonishing report just brought in by their
breathless countryman; for as the foremost of our party emerged from the
tall reeds, our opposite neighbours slowly drew off, and were soon hid in
the dense obscurity their position afforded. They had evidently examined
our old fireplace very minutely, but the precaution taken to preserve the
meat canister had luckily been successful.

QUARTERS FOR THE NIGHT.

I selected the quarters for the night not without some anxiety, for the natives
were evidently in force in our immediate neighbourhood, and their shrill
cries kept us all awake, though the day's march had been an arduous one.
We had made good upwards of twenty miles: the ground, except in Lucky
Valley, was of a most trying character: the thermometer at noon 102
degrees, and with nearly 150 pounds weight among seven of us, for the sick
hand was of course relieved as far as possible. I got the requisite
observation for latitude during the night; and since necessity is ever the
mother of invention, read off my sextant by a torch made for the occasion
from pieces of paperbark. It will easily be believed, that I did not needlessly
prolong the work; for the light of the torch rendered me a prominent mark
for any prowling savage to hurl his spear at: however, His Eye, to whom the
darkness and the light are both alike, watched over our safety, and we spent
the night in security if not in silence.

November 14.

The morning broke, and we found ourselves apparently alone in the
solitudes of the forest: no sound or sign indicated the presence of its more
rightful proprietors. Did the savage so soon prepare to yield to the
advancing movement of that hitherto fatal civilization before which his

name, his race, nay, all traces of his rude existence may ere long pass into
oblivion? or did the gathering of the night, and the apparent peaceful aspect
of the morn, denote that one gallant struggle would be made ere a strange
shout of triumph woke the silent echoes with the glorious name with which
we had dignified our new discovery, and which throughout the world
sounds as the appropriate title of the fair sovereign of its mightiest people?

RETURN TO REACH HOPELESS.

A rapid walk brought us to our old bivouac by ten o'clock, without anything
of particular interest having occurred upon the route. We found only one
boat at Reach Hopeless, Captain Wickham having gone down the river with
the others in order to hasten the watering party. In another chapter will be
found some more detailed remarks upon the peculiar and distinctive
character of the Victoria; they will not be uninteresting to the reader who
feels any of that curiosity which is in part an incitement to the discoverer.

We learnt from the party at the boat that a large body of the natives had
been down watching their movements, and apparently intending if possible
to surprise them. Though they had approached very near, they would not
have been seen but for a shooting party, which got a view of them from an
overlooking height, crawling along the ground with evident caution. They
were probably the same party we had encountered higher up, and had traced
our trail backwards, in order to see whence, and in what force we had
entered their territory. Little did they imagine, as they gazed upon our small
party and its solitary boat, that they had seen the harbingers of an
approaching revolution in the fortunes of their country!

CHAPTER 2.3. VICTORIA RIVER.

Proceed down the river from Reach Hopeless.
Meet watering party.
One of the men deserts.
Kangaroo shooting.
The writer left to complete survey of river.
Silk cotton-tree.
Fertility of Whirlwind Plains.

Attempt of one of the crew to jump overboard.
Reach the Ship.
Suffer from sore eyes.
Lieutenant Emery finds water.
Geological specimens.
Bird's Playhouse.
Tides.
Strange weather.
Range of Barometer.
Accounted for by proximity of Port Essington.
Hurricane.
Effects of the latter.
Dreary country behind Water Valley.
Fruitless attempt to weigh ship's anchors.
Obliged to slip from both of them.
Proceed down the river.
Complete survey of Main Channel.
Visit south Entrance Point of river.
Discover a number of dead turtles.
Cross over to Point Pearce.
Mr. Bynoe shoots a new finch.
The Author speared.
Pursued by natives.
Escape.
Flight of natives.
Armed party pursue them.
Night of suffering.
General description of the Victoria.
Gouty-stem tree and fruit.

REUNION OF THE BOATS.

November 13.

The day was devoted to fixing the position of several of the surrounding
hills; and in the afternoon we obtained observations for rating the
chronometers: I found that one by French, which I had worn in my pocket,

had gone most admirably. Captain Wickham joined us in the gig after dark.
The evening was cloudy, and we had a sharp squall at midnight from south-
east.

November 14.

Both boats were moved off down the river at daylight, and ere it had passed
away, the ford above Steep Head was left behind. We found that the
watering boats had not got over the shallow below, so that we spent the
night together; and a merry party we made. We talked over all we had seen,
and the hills that rose around echoed back for the first time the laugh and
the song of civilized man, and our strange language was repeated as glibly
by the rocks of Australia as if they were those of our own native land. So
true is it that nature is ever ready to commune familiarly with us, whereas
by our very brethren we are looked upon as enemies to shun, and are
incapable of making ourselves understood by them.

A DESERTER.

When the morning of the 15th broke it was discovered that one of the men
belonging to the watering party had deserted during the night. He had been
guilty of this offence once before, in order to steal the spirits which had
been buried for the use of my exploring party. What however could have
induced him to take this step a second time--risking, without any apparent
motive, the danger of being left on a strange, and almost uninhabited coast,
it would be difficult even to suggest. Parties were immediately despatched
in quest of him, and at length, after an arduous search, he was found behind
a large sandstone rock on the side of a hill; having revisited the spot where
the provisions had been concealed for the use of my party, in the hope of
obtaining possession of his god the rum-keg. He had evidently prepared for
desertion: clothing, biscuit, and fishing-tackle being among the stores with
which he had made off. This despicable wretch--for such must everyone
consider the man who would steal his shipmates' provisions, when each had
only his bare allowance--had nothing to say, either in extenuation or
explanation of his conduct. Most fortunate for him was it that our humane
exertions to discover his retreat were successful; he could not long have
subsisted by himself, and even had he been so happy as to fall in with, and
receive hospitable welcome from the natives, he must of necessity have

lingered out a life of toilsome, cheerless hardship while a companion of
their wanderings, and when unfitted for this by old age, he would,
according to the custom of the country, have been left to die, unfriended and
alone, upon the spot where his last weary efforts failed. The delay
occasioned by this extraordinary and unlooked-for event, made it late by the
time all the boats were fairly on their way down the river. The wind was
light from the north-east, and the temperature about 90 degrees, at 9 o'clock.

NEW KANGAROO.

I pushed on to gain a station at the commencement of the hills on the
eastern side of Whirlwind Plains, and also, if possible, to shoot a kangaroo
to send to the ship:* I was so fortunate as to secure two; one of a new
species, very small, and of a dark brown colour, with coarse hair, I found in
rocky land, which it appears solely to inhabit, as it was also found near the
ship. As, however, like the generality of kangaroos, this species only move
of their own accord in the night time, they are rarely seen, and but one good
specimen was obtained by Lieutenant Emery, who brought it to England,
and submitted it to Mr. Gould, who has described it as Petrogale concinna.
It is now in the British Museum.

(*Footnote. I had now become quite an adept in this kind of sport. My plan
was to direct a man to walk along near the river, where they are generally
found, whilst I kept considerably above him and a little in advance, so that
all those that were started running up from the bank in the curved direction,
habitual with all kangaroos, passed within shot.)

The height we visited was of coarse sandstone formation, and attained an
elevation of 150 feet. As I was left to examine some parts of the river which
had been passed in the night, I had a further opportunity of determining the
value, and estimating the fertility of Whirlwind Plains. My examination
only confirmed my previous conjectures in favour of the capabilities of the
soil. From what I had seen at Port Essington, as ground considered
favourable for the growth of cotton, there can be no doubt that on these
plains it would thrive much better; but the soil on the Victoria is of too
fertile a character to bear any comparison with that of Cobourg Peninsula.

SILK COTTON-TREE.

At Reach Hopeless, and at other points of the important stream I am
describing we observed numerous specimens of a kind of silk cotton-tree
(Bombax): the diameter was sometimes as great as twenty inches; and it not
unfrequently rose to the height of twenty or thirty feet, though generally
shorter. The pods were of an oval shape, and about two inches and a half in
length; each pod was in three divisions and full of a silky cotton, with the
seeds not imbedded but held at the extremity of the fibres. I brought home a
specimen and presented it to Sir William Hooker, of the Royal Botanical
Gardens at Kew, with whom I have since had some correspondence on the
subject. He informs me that the plant is one hitherto undescribed; but that
Sir Joseph Banks met with it in Captain Cook's voyage.

November 17.

We continued our descent of the river: stopping from time to time to
complete the survey. In the end of Long Reach we noticed that the stream
ran up two hours after high-water. After securing some observations for
latitude under Station Peak in the early part of the night, we proceeded
further down the river, delighted to escape from that mosquito-haunted
neighbourhood.

EFFECTS OF DRINKING SALT-WATER.

November 18.

At day-break I was very much distressed and astonished to see one of the
men on a sudden start up under the influence of delirium, and attempt to
throw himself into the water, from which the combined strength of three or
four of the crew with difficulty restrained him. He was one of the best men I
had with me; his sudden and serious illness had doubtless been produced by
the draughts of saltwater which he had swallowed during the night. He had
been accustomed to indulge in very liberal potations while we were up the
river, and now, when from necessity the allowance was restricted to a gallon
per day, he had most foolishly attempted in the dark to quench his thirst
with the salt waters of the advancing tide. In the afternoon we rejoined the
ship, and he was placed under the care of Mr. Bynoe; but it was some time
before he fully recovered from the effects of his rash experiment. The day
was very oppressive, the thermometer being 105 degrees in the shade, and

there was no wind. We were cordially greeted by our shipmates upon our
return, and both Mr. Forsyth and myself enjoyed the luxury of a night's rest
in our hammocks; a most agreeable change after the hot stones upon which
we had generally been compelled to court repose during our exploration.
We had both suffered much inconvenience from the attacks of flies upon
our visual organs, necessarily exposed and undefended as they had been
when we were occupied during the observations and in viewing the strange
scenes of the last eighteen days. The irritation upon the lids produced a
copious discharge, which fairly sealed them up at night; so that, at last, in
order to have them ready for immediate use, I found it requisite to sleep
with a wet linen cloth covering each eye.

We heard with great satisfaction that Lieutenant Emery's search for water
had been completely successful, and that two large wells had been dug in
the valley, abreast of which the ship was anchored. During our absence the
barometer had ranged between 30.08 and 29.97; the minimum height being
always at noon. There had been several sharp squalls from the eastward,
beginning at south-east and ending at north-east, with a few showers of
rain. North-west, or seabreezes, were regular near the changes of the moon,
and of greater duration. No meteors were observed since the 16th, but
between the 7th and 11th they were very numerous.

GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.

November 20.

I went ashore to collect a few geological specimens: the sandstone which
prevailed everywhere was in a decomposed state, but there was a very
decided dip in the strata to the south-east, of about 30 degrees. On the east
side of Water Valley, I found the same kind of slate, noticed before at
Curiosity Peak: but what most interested me was a bituminous substance
found near the bottom of the wells recently dug, and 23 feet from the
surface of the ground. It was apparently of a clayey nature when first
brought up, but became hard and dark upon exposure to the air, and ignited
quickly when put into the flame of a candle. The sides of Water Valley were
very precipitous, and nearly 300 feet high: a growth of palms marked the
spot, and served to indicate our wells. We here saw also the same fruit I had
noticed on Curiosity Peak.

BIRD'S PLAYHOUSE.

I found matter for conjecture in noticing a number of twigs with their ends
stuck into the ground, which was strewed over with shells, and their tops
brought together so as to form a small bower; this was 2 1/2 feet long, 1 1/2
foot wide at either end. It was not until my next visit to Port Essington that I
thought this anything but some Australian mother's toy to amuse her child:
there I was asked, one day, to go and see the bird's playhouse, when I
immediately recognised the same kind of construction I had seen at the
Victoria River: the bird* was amusing itself by flying backwards and
forwards, taking a shell alternately from each side, and carrying it through
the archway in its mouth.

(*Footnote. Figured in Mr. Gould's work as Chlamydera nuchalis.)

November 22.

The moon being full to-day we noticed that the tides were very strong:
particularly the flood-stream, which came in bores, and sometimes swept by
the ship at the rate of 6 1/2 knots, while the ebb did not exceed 4 1/2: the
greatest rise also to-day was 24 feet.

SINGULAR CHANGE OF WINDS.

November 25.

My journal of this day begins with remarking a very extraordinary change
that took place in the winds. Instead of the usual fresh North-West breeze
after ten A.M., there was a moderate one from East-South-East. This drew
round gradually by east to north. At sunset the weather was very gloomy;
but the barometer indicated nothing, ranging as usual. In the early part of
the night the wind was light from North-North-West, changing suddenly at
midnight to a fresh breeze from South-East with rain. When the morning
broke, it had veered to East-South-East with squalls from East-North-East
and heavy rain. Dense masses of clouds covered the sky, enveloping
everything in gloom; which, though so far agreeable as to reduce the
temperature to 75 degrees, had a most singular effect after the constant
bright sunny days we had experienced. There was still no unusual change in

the barometer, the maximum being 30.06, and the minimum 29.98 at two
P.M. The night was squally without rain.

HURRICANE AT PORT ESSINGTON.

November 27.

The day broke with an appearance of fine weather; patches of blue sky
peeped between the heavy masses of clouds, and expanding as the day
advanced, left us at sunset with a cloudless vault of blue overhead. The
barometer was lower throughout the whole of this day than it had been at
all, being at two P.M. 29.91. When this strange weather first began I was
disposed to consider it to be of the same character as that which I had
before observed to occur within a few days of the change of the moon. But
its duration and occasional violence led me to think otherwise, and I
afterwards found my conclusions to be correct; as at this very time a
hurricane visited Port Essington, distant 270 miles, in a North 30 degrees
East direction.*

(*Footnote. The following account of the effects of this hurricane at Port
Essington is from the pen of Captain Stanley, and has been published in the
Nautical Magazine for September 1841.

Monday 25th.

A strong breeze set in from the south-east with drizzling rain, but as the
barometer remained at 29.90, its usual point, and similar weather had been
experienced at the change of the monsoon in 1838, nothing was
apprehended, more particularly as the wind moderated (as had been
expected) at sunset. Between seven and eight o'clock the wind drew round
to the southward, and the barometer began to fall rapidly: at ten it blew
furiously from the same quarter, and the barometer was as low as 29.10;
many of the trees were blown down at this time. At midnight the wind drew
round to the eastward, and blew a perfect hurricane, before which nearly
everything gave way; the trees came down in every part of the settlement;
the marines' houses were all blown down; the church, only finished a week,
shared the same fate: the barometer fell to 28.52.

About two A.M. the wind shifted suddenly to the northward, from which
point for about half-an-hour, its fury was tremendous; the government-
house, built on stone piers, was blown away from them to a distance of nine
feet; the sea rose ten feet and a half, by measurement afterwards, above the
usual high-water mark. H.M.S. Pelorus, having parted her cables, was
driven on shore, and thrown over on her beam ends, on the north-east point
of the settlement, where heeling over 82 degrees, her starboard side was
buried nine feet in the mud, leaving the keel three feet clear of the
ground.**

At daylight the barometer rose slowly to 29.90, the gale moderated, and the
sea went down so fast, that between seven and eight we were able to send a
boat to the assistance of the Pelorus: after eight the breeze continued to
blow strong from the northward for two days, with heavy rain.

The occurrence of such a hurricane must be very rare, as the natives were as
much astonished as ourselves, and came to beg for shelter: they have no
name for it, and no tradition of anything of the sort having happened before:
the state in which the very extensive fences at Raffles Bay were in shortly
before, must prove that the trees had never been blown down in the way
they were on the 25th of November, since that settlement was abandoned in
1829.

The extent of the hurricane must have been very limited: at Coepang a
strong gale from the south-west was experienced, and also between Java
and Timor on the 26th, but the wind did not change. Even 18 miles north, at
Vashon Head, the change of wind must have been greater though equal in
force. There the first trees fell with the wind from West-South-West; a few
fell when the wind was east, and most when the wind was north-west. The
Malays have an idea that every fifth year the monsoon is stronger than
usual, but can give no reason for thinking so. According to them this
monsoon ought to have been a strong one.

(**Footnote. The Pelorus was dug out of the mud, and once more got afloat
towards the middle of February following. This immense undertaking was
accomplished by the indefatigable exertion and mechanical skill of her
commander, Captain Kuper, C.B., assisted by Captain Stanley. J.L.S.))

COURSE OF THE STORM.

The bad weather in the Victoria then would appear to have been caused by
the proximity of the southern edge of this storm as it passed to the
westward. The fact of the time when the weather was the worst, having
been the same at Port Essington, and in the Victoria; and of the French
discovery ships meeting it in Torres Strait first, shows the westerly course
of the storm. Its northern edge did not reach Coepang, but a strong gale
from the south-west on the 26th showed that it was passing. Most probably
it took a more southerly course before reaching Timor.*

(*Footnote. We were informed at Timor that hurricanes were never felt
there, but occur once in four or five years to the southward of it. It may be
added that a vessel lost her top-masts in the Port Essington hurricane, near
Sandalwood Island, and that to the southward of Java hurricanes occur
frequently.)

I passed the night on shore, making observations for latitude, and in the
hope also of being able to obtain another specimen of the new small
kangaroo, that being the time when it is generally to be found on the move.
But I did not succeed in this object; and failed also in my expectation of
knocking over one of a large kind seen in the interior. I left the observation
spot for this purpose with the first grey of the morn, taking an East-North-
East direction for about four miles.

DREARY COUNTRY.

The country was most dreary; vast ranges strewn over with huge blocks of
sandstone, rose in desolate grandeur around; chasms, ravines, and thirsty
stony valleys yawned on every side; all was broken, rugged, and arid, as if
the curse of sterility had fallen on the land; in short, the contrast was
complete between this desert place and the country we had so lately
traversed up the river. I was able, accordingly, to procure nothing in the
shape of a fresh meal, save a few black cockatoos and some of the pigeons
of a dark brown colour, with a white patch on the extremity of the wing,
which I have alluded to in the earlier part of the work relating to King's
Sound, as always inhabiting rocky districts and making a whirring sound,
like a partridge, on the wing.

LOSE TWO ANCHORS.

November 29.

This afternoon and the whole of the next day, when the tide suited, we were
endeavouring to weigh the ship's anchors; but they were together with the
cables so imbedded in the bottom, which must have been a quicksand, that
this proved impossible. Had the ship been fitted with Captain Charles
Phillips', R.N., capstan, there would have been a better chance of
succeeding. As it was, after heaving down the ship nineteen inches by the
head, and splitting the hawse pipes, we were ultimately obliged to leave
both behind, and thirty fathoms of cable with one and fifteen with the other.
This circumstance suggested the appropriate name of Holdfast Reach for
this locality; and perhaps in some future generations, when this part of the
world has undergone the changes that seems destined for it, the
archaeologist of Victoria River may in vain puzzle his wits with
speculations concerning the Beagle's anchors.

Whilst at this anchorage, just after dark, flocks of whistling ducks were
constantly heard passing over our heads in a South-West by West direction,
or towards the head of Cambridge Gulf, which led to the supposition that
there was a river in that neighbourhood. We placed the south point of Water
Valley in latitude 15 degrees 13 3/4 minutes South and longitude 2 degrees
22 minutes West of Port Essington, variation one degree easterly. Our tidal
observation made the time of high-water, at the full and change of the
moon, 9 o'clock, when the mean rise at springs was sixteen feet, and at
neaps ten. The duration of the flood-stream was seven hours, being two
greater than the ebb. The former ran 50 minutes after high-water, and the
latter 30 minutes after low-water. Before leaving Holdfast Reach,
Lieutenant Emery observed one or two natives, opposite Water Valley,
being the only ones that had been seen from the ship. He endeavoured to
obtain an interview, by going up alone towards them, but they drew off
when he got near.

DROP DOWN THE RIVER.

December 1.

We slipped from our last anchor at daylight, and proceeded down the river.
After pirouetting through Whirlpool Reach, we got as far down as the flats
fronting River Peak, above which we anchored near noon. After having
been shut up among rocky ranges for a month, the sight of the sea horizon
was a novelty, and the cool, refreshing breeze, as it came sweeping over the
unbroken expanse of waters, created in us very pleasing sensations.

Next morning we beat down the main channel, which was called the
Queen's, the deep water varying from five to nine fathoms being on the
west side. Some shoal patches of a quarter and two fathoms, lying midway
between Observation Island, and the end of the long sand extending off its
northern side, prevented our proceeding further. The boats completed the
survey of the western side of the channel in the afternoon: the largest creek
examined by Mr. Forsyth received his name.

REACH THE SEA.

December 3.

Dropping down the channel with a light air from the westward, and a boat
in advance sounding, no impediment occurred after passing the sands
extending off Observation Island, as a fine deep channel of six and eight
fathoms followed the western side of Quoin Island, and the long sand
stretching off its north end. When we had cleared this the anchor was
dropped in eight fathoms, and the boats were again employed in sounding.

That the Beagle was once more anchored outside all the banks--to have
touched on any of which, with the great strength of the tides that hurried us
along would have been fatal--was a great relief to all of us, especially to
me, in whom Captain Wickham had placed so much confidence as to trust
the ship to my guidance, whilst exposed to the dangers I have mentioned.

December 4.

Moved the ship within three miles and a half of the south extreme point of
the river, the highest part bearing South 40 degrees West. A party of us
visited it, and, from a rather extraordinary sight we there beheld, it was
called Turtle Point.

DEAD TURTLES ON THE SHORE.

Behind some very low scattered sandhills that form it, fronting a mangrove
flat, we beheld great numbers of dead turtles, that seemed to have repaired
thither of their own accord to die. They were lying on their bellies, with
their shells for the most part uninjured, though some were turned over, and
showed other signs of visits from the natives. A few skeletons of a large
bustard* were also seen there, so that the place had quite the appearance of
a cemetery, and reminded me of a spot on the River Gallegos in Patagonia,
where the guanacos (a kind of llama) assemble to pay the debt of nature,
and leave their bones to whiten the surface of the plain. Never before, on
any occasion, had we seen dead turtles in any similar position; how they
could have got there was a mystery, unless we suppose them to have been
thrown up by some earthquake wave. They had evidently not been
transported thither by the hand of man, though, as I have observed, some of
the natives who thinly inhabit this district, finding them there, ready to their
hand, had availed themselves of the gifts of fortune. I could not help, as I
gazed on this remarkable scene, calling to mind the marvellous elephant
cemetery described by Sinbad the Sailor. It is possible that the observation
of some similar phenomenon may have suggested to the imagination of the
authors of the Thousand and One Nights their romantic fiction. At any rate
an air of mystery will always hang round Turtle Point until the facts I have
mentioned shall have been explained.

(*Footnote. A specimen of one of them was brought away and deposited in
the Museum at Sydney.)

The nature of this part of the country I have before described on my visit to
Indian Hill. A ridge of breakers ran off north a couple of miles from our
station; a low point, bearing West 16 degrees South about eight or nine
miles, with an opening trending in south intervening, with some slightly
elevated land bearing South 34 degrees West about four or five leagues,
terminated our view to the westward. We found the tide much weaker on
this side of the entrance, not exceeding three miles an hour; the stream ran
up three-quarters of an hour after high-water. The times of high-water for
the last three days had been most unaccountably the same.

December 5.

Crossed over to Point Pearce at daylight, but the wind being light all the
morning did not reach an anchorage till the afternoon; the extreme of the
point bearing North 41 degrees West three-quarters of a mile. A line of
ripplings extended a couple of miles off to the south-west of it, in which we
found there was only four fathoms. In standing across the entrance we
passed first a bank of three fathoms, with six and seven on each side; Turtle
Point bearing South 45 degrees West 11 miles; then two more, one of seven
and eight fathoms, with twelve and seventeen on each side, the other of
only two fathoms with twelve on the south, and twenty on the north side.

MERMAID BANK.

We subsequently found the latter to be a continuation of the bank on which
Captain King had five fathoms, Point Pearce bearing North 22 degrees East
5 miles; and in order to record his visit we named it, after his vessel,
Mermaid Bank.

VISIT THE SHORE FOR OBSERVATIONS.

December 7.

I left the ship in the morning to make some observations at Point Pearce for
the errors of the chronometers. I was accompanied to the shore by Mr.
Bynoe, who was going on a shooting excursion. It being high-water, I was
obliged to select a spot near the cliffs forming the point, for carrying out my
intention. That selected was about 60 yards from the wood-crowned cliff
which rose behind; thinking such an intervening distance would secure me
from the spear of the treacherous native. This caution rather resulted from
what had before occurred at Escape Cliffs, where Messrs. Fitzmaurice and
Keys so narrowly escaped, than from any idea that natives might be lurking
about. Indeed, Mr. Bynoe had been shooting all over the ground yesterday,
and had neither seen nor heard anything to indicate their existence in this
neighbourhood; though doubtless, from what followed, they had been very
busily watching him all the time, and were probably only deterred from
making an attack, by the alarm with which his destructive gun, dealing
death to the birds, must have filled them. Requiring equal altitudes, I was
compelled to revisit the spot in the afternoon for the corresponding
observations. The boat in which Mr. Bynoe returned to the ship, was to

carry me on shore. We met at the gangway, and in answer to my inquiry, he
informed me that he had seen no traces of the natives. He had shot a new
and very beautiful bird of the finch tribe, in which the brilliant colours of
verdigris green, lilac purple, and bright yellow, were admirably blended.*
The time was short; half an hour would have sufficed for the observations,
and we should have left the coast. As it was now low-water, and I had to
traverse a coral reef half a mile in width, I resolved to lighten myself of my
gun, which I had taken with me in the morning, that I might with greater
safety carry the chronometer. On landing I directed Mr. Tarrant and one of
the boat's crew to follow with the rest of the instruments. The walking was
very bad, the reef being strewed with coral fragments, and interspersed with
large pools. With my mind fully occupied by all we had seen of late, I
hurried on without waiting, and reached the observation spot, just glancing
towards the cliff, which presented nothing to the view except the silvery
stems of the never-failing gumtrees.

(*Footnote. Figured by Mr. Gould from this specimen as Amadina
gouldiae.)

THE AUTHOR SPEARED.

I had just turned my head round to look after my followers when I was
suddenly staggered by a violent and piercing blow about the left shoulder:*
and ere the dart had ceased to quiver in its destined mark, a loud long yell,
such as the savage only can produce, told me by whom I had been speared.

(*Footnote. See the view annexed. )

CAPTAIN STOKES SPEARED AT POINT PEARCE.
C. Martens, del.
London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.

PURSUED BY THE NATIVES.

One glance sufficed to show me the cliffs, so lately the abode of silence and
solitude, swarming with the dusky forms of the natives, now indulging in
all the exuberant action with which the Australian testifies his delight. One
tall bushy-headed fellow led the group, and was evidently my successful
assailant. I drew out the spear, which had entered the cavity of the chest,
and retreated, with all the swiftness I could command, in the hope of
reaching those who were coming up from the boat, and were then about
halfway. I fully expected another spear while my back was turned; but
fortunately the savages seemed only to think of getting down to the beach to
complete their work. Onward I hurried, carrying the spear, which I had
drawn from the wound, and determined if, as I expected, overtaken, to sell
my life dearly. Each step, less steady than the former one, reminded me that
I was fast losing blood: but I hurried on, still retaining the chronometer, and

grasping my only weapon of defence. The savage cry behind soon told me
that my pursuers had found their way to the beach: while at every
respiration, the air escaping through the orifice of the wound, warned me
that the strength by which I was still enabled to struggle through the deep
pools and various other impediments in my path, must fail me soon. I had
fallen twice: each disaster being announced by a shout of vindictive
triumph, from the bloodhounds behind. To add to my distress, I now saw,
with utter dismay, that Mr. Tarrant, and the man with the instruments,
unconscious of the fact that I had been speared, and therefore believing that
I could make good my escape, were moving off towards the boat. I gave up
all hope, and with that rapid glance at the past, which in such an hour
crowds the whole history of life upon the mind, and one brief mental act of
supplication or rather submission to Him in whose hands are the issues of
life and death, I prepared for the last dread struggle.

NARROW ESCAPE FROM DEATH.

At that moment the attention of the retreating party was aroused by a boat
approaching hastily from the ship; the first long, loud, wild shriek of the
natives having most providentially apprised those on board of our danger.
They turned and perceived that I was completely exhausted. I spent the last
struggling energy I possessed to join them. Supported on each side I had
just strength to direct them to turn towards our savage enemies: who were
hurrying on in a long file, shouting and waving their clubs, and were now
only about thirty yards off. Our turning, momentarily checked their
advance, whilst their force increased. During these very few and awfully
anxious moments, a party, headed by Lieutenant Emery, hastened over the
reef to our support. Another moment, and ours would have been the fate of
so many other explorers; the hand of the savage almost grasped our throats-
-we should have fallen a sacrifice in the cause of discovery, and our bones
left to moulder on this distant shore, would have been trodden heedlessly
underfoot by the wandering native.

At the sight of Lieutenant Emery's party, the natives flew with the utmost
rapidity, covering their flight, either from chance or skill, by my party; in a
moment the air, so lately echoing with their ferocious yells, was silent, and
the scene of their intended massacre, as lonely and deserted as before!

I was soon got down to the boat, lifted over the ship's side, and stretched on
the poop cabin table, under the care of Mr. Bynoe, who on probing the
wound gave me a cheering hope of its not proving fatal. The anxiety with
which I watched his countenance, and listened to the words of life or death,
the reader may imagine, but I cannot attempt to describe. The natives never
throw a spear when the eye of the person they aim at is turned towards
them, supposing that everyone, like themselves, can avoid it. This was most
fortunate, as, my side being towards them, the spear had to pass through the
thick muscles of the breast before reaching my lungs. Another circumstance
in my favour was that I had been very much reduced by my late exertions.

NIGHT OF SUFFERING.

The sufferings of that night I will not fatigue my readers by describing; but
I can never forget the anxiety with which Mr. Bynoe watched over me
during the whole of it. Neither can I forget my feelings of gratitude to the
Almighty when my sunken eyes the next morning once more caught the
first rays of the sun. It seemed as though I could discover in these an
assurance that my hour was not yet come, and that it would be my lot for
some time longer to gaze with grateful pleasure on their splendour.

Several excursions were made during our stay in search of the natives, but
without success. An encampment was found in the neighbourhood, near a
small freshwater swamp, and by the things that were left behind it was
evident that a hasty retreat had been made. It would have been as well if we
could have punished these people in some way for their unprovoked attack;
but to have followed them far into the bush would have been quite useless.
A comparison of their conduct with that of the natives of Shoal Bay,
confirms what I have before stated of the extraordinary contrast presented
by the dispositions of the aboriginal inhabitants of Australia; for in both
instances we were the first Europeans they had ever encountered.

TREACHERY BAY.

The observations, which nearly cost me my life in endeavouring to obtain,
placed Point Pearce in latitude 14 degrees 25 minutes 50 seconds, South
longitude 2 degrees 49 minutes West of Port Essington. The time of high-
water, at the full and change, was seven o'clock, when the tides rose from

twenty to twenty-six feet. The cliffs forming it are of a reddish hue, from
the quantity of iron the rocks in the neighbourhood contain. To
commemorate the accident which befell me, the bay within Point Pearce
was called Treachery Bay, and a high hill over it Providence Hill.

In the nights of the 10th and 11th we had sharp squalls from the eastward,
being early in the season for their repeated appearance. There was the usual
gathering of clouds, the hard edges of which were lit up by the constant
flashing of lightning. It is singular that all these squalls, wherever we have
met them, should happen within five hours of the same time, between nine
at night and two in the morning.

COURSE OF THE VICTORIA.

I have thus detailed the circumstances attending the discovery and partial
exploration of the Victoria, that new and important addition to our
geographical knowledge of one of the least known and most interesting
portions of the globe. Its peculiar characteristics--for, like all Australian
rivers, it has distinctive habits and scenery of its own--the nature of the
country through which it flows--its present condition, its future destiny, are
all subjects, to which, though I may have cursorily alluded before, I am
under promise to the reader of returning. Of that promise, therefore, I now
tender this in fulfilment.

The Victoria falls into the Indian Ocean in latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes
South and longitude 129 degrees 21 minutes East, being at its confluence
with the sea, between Turtle and Pearce Points, twenty-six miles wide. The
land upon either side as you enter the river is bold and well defined, but
from the margin of the western shore, an extensive mud and mangrove flat,
not entirely above the level of high-water, and reaching to the base of a
range of hills, about seventeen miles from the water's edge, seems to
indicate that at one time the waters of the Victoria washed the high land on
either side.

For the first thirty miles of the upward course, the character of the river
undergoes but little change. The left side continues bold, with the exception
of a few extensive flats, sometimes overflowed, and a remarkable rocky
elevation, about twenty-five miles up, to which we gave the name of The

Fort, as suggested by its bastion-like appearance, though now called Table
Hill in the chart. To the right the shore remains low, studded with
mangroves, and still, from appearance, subject to not unfrequent
inundations: towards the mouth, indeed, it is partially flooded by each
returning tide. Thirty-five miles from its mouth its whole appearance
undergoes the most striking alteration. We now enter the narrow defile of a
precipitous rocky range of compact sandstone, rising from 4 to 500 feet in
height, and coming down to the river, in some places nearly two miles wide,
in others not less than twenty fathoms deep, and hurrying through, as if to
force a passage, with a velocity sometimes not less than six miles an hour.

NATURE OF THE COUNTRY.

It continues a rapid stream during its passage through this defile, an extent
of some thirty miles, and beyond it is found slowly winding its way towards
the sea across a rich alluvial plain, fifteen miles in width. Above this plain
is found a second range of similar character and formation to that before
mentioned; the stream, however, having of course somewhat less both of
width and depth, and flowing with a decreased rapidity. The elevation of the
hills on either side was at first entering considerably less than in the former
range; they had also lost much of their steep and precipitous appearance;
but as we gradually proceeded up, the former distinctive characteristics
returned: the hills rose higher and more boldly, almost immediately from
the water's edge, and continued each mile to present a loftier and more
rugged front; never however attaining the extreme altitude of the former or
Sea Range. Above Reach Hopeless the width of the alluvial land, lying
between the immediate margin of the river and the hills which bound its
valley, considerably increased; and just in proportion as the high bold land
approached the channel on one shore, it receded from it on the opposite, and
left an extensive alluvial flat between that bank and the retreating hills; the
whole valley, too, widened out, so that, supposing the stream at one time to
have filled it from the bases of the high land on either side, it must have had
a breadth above Reach Hopeless of from three to five miles, and this still
increased when I last traced its presumed course beyond Mount Regret.

The extreme altitude of Sea Range is from 7 to 800 feet, and of the hills last
seen, near Mount Regret, from 4 to 500. The distinctive formation common

to both consists in their level summits, within twenty feet of which a
precipitous wall of rock, of a reddish hue, runs along the hillside.

VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS.

The upper portion of the valley through which the river passes varies in its
nature from treeless, stony plains to rich alluvial flats, lightly timbered with
a white-stemmed gum. The banks are steep and high, thickly clothed with
the acacia, drooping eucalyptus, and tall reeds. The various lake-like
reaches had, of course, no perceptible stream, but their banks, no less than
the dry patches in the bed of the river, satisfied us that the Victoria had
recently been, and in all probability would soon again become, a large and
rapid river.

GOUTY-STEM TREE.

Among the most curious vegetable productions along its banks are the silk
cotton-tree and the gouty-stem tree. The latter has been already mentioned
by Captains King and Grey, and here attains a great size: it bears a very
fragrant white flower, not unlike the jasmine; the fruit is used by the
natives, and found to be a very nutritious article of food, something similar
to a coconut. Not having previously noticed it in this neighbourhood I
conclude this to be the northern limit of its growth. The reader will
remember my having before alluded to seeing it near the mouth of Fitzroy
River, where I have also mentioned the extent of coast on which we found
it, and given the limits of its indigenous empire, extending not quite over
two degrees of latitude. The peculiar character of the tree I leave the reader
to learn from the woodcuts annexed.

GOUTY-STEM TREE.

ITS FRUIT.

That containing the fruit* is from a specimen obtained near the Fitzroy, as it
was in flower when I saw it in the month of November on the banks of the
Victoria.

FRUIT OF GOUTY-STEM TREE.

(*Footnote. For description of this fruit, see Volume 1.)

I may here remind the reader, that among the results of our exploration of
the Victoria was the addition of a new species of kangaroo, a freshwater
tortoise, some fish, and several beautiful birds to the domains of natural
history.

CHAPTER 2.4. VICTORIA RIVER TO SWAN RIVER.

Leave Point Pearce.
Error in position of Cape Rulhieres.
Obtain soundings on supposed Sahul Shoal.
Discover a shoal patch on it.
Ascertain extent of bank of soundings off the Australian shore.
Strange winds in Monsoon.
See Scott's Reef.
Discover error in its position.
Make Depuch Island.
Prevalence of westerly winds near it.
Sperm whales.
Tedious passage.
Death and burial of the ship's cook.
Anecdotes of his life.
Good landfall.
Arrival at Swan River.
Find Colony improved.
Hospitality of Colonists.
Lieutenant Roe's account of his rescuing Captain Grey's party.
Burial of Mr. Smith.
Hurricane at Shark's Bay.
Observations on dry appearance of Upper Swan.
Unsuccessful cruise of Champion.
Visit Rottnest.
Fix on a hill for the site of a Lighthouse.
Aboriginal convicts.
Protectors of natives.
American whalers.
Miago.

Trees of Western Australia.
On the safety of Gage Roads.

SAIL FOR SWAN RIVER.

December 12.

By this day Mr. Bynoe thought I was sufficiently recovered to be able to
bear the motion of the ship at sea, and we accordingly sailed in the morning
for Swan River.

Standing out from Point Pearce we had a better view, than on our first
approach, of the coast to the north of it; trending in a North 11 degrees East
direction. It had a sandy appearance and was fronted with a rocky ledge at
low-water, with one or two remarkable bare sand patches, four or five miles
from the Point. We had a shoal cast of nine fathoms (eight at low-water) ten
miles west from Point Pearce. In the afternoon we stood to the westward, in
very even soundings of 15 fathoms.

On the 13th we saw the white cliffs of Cape Rulhieres, which, like Point
Pearce, we found to be four miles and a half west of its assigned position.
On the 14th and 15th we were beating to the westward with a light and
variable wind.

SAHUL SHOAL.

Our progress was slow, the monsoon being light; we therefore stood to the
northward, to find a more steady breeze, and in order, whilst making our
westing, to get some soundings over a large dotted space in the chart,
bearing the name of the Great Sahul Shoal. We desired also to ascertain the
extent of the bank of soundings extending off this part of the Australian
continent, which here approaches to within 245 miles of the south end of
Timor. The soundings varied, according to the boards we made over it, from
30 to 60 fathoms; the bottom in the lesser depth being a kind of coral, with
bits of ironstone mixed with sand; whilst in the greater depth, it was a green
sandy mud.

On the 17th at 8 P.M., whilst standing on the north-west, near the centre of
the eastern part of the supposed Sahul Shoal, the water shoaled suddenly to
16 fathoms, from 68, a mile to the south-east. The helm was put down, and
when in stays there were only 14 1/2. The position of this patch is in
latitude 11 degrees 8 1/2 minutes South, longitude 126 degrees 33 minutes
East. Standing off South by East, in two miles the water deepened to 72
fathoms. It was not until we had gone about ten miles, that we again got
into 60 fathoms, on the outer edge of the bank of green sandy mud, fronting
the Australian shore, and approaching within a hundred miles of the south
end of Timor. This bank appears to be separated from the collection of coral
patches, forming the Sahul Shoal by a deep gap or gut, in which the depth
generally was above 70 fathoms, with a rocky bottom; though in part of it,
in latitude 11 degrees 36 minutes South and longitude 124 degrees 53
minutes East, there was no bottom with 207 fathoms.

Dr. Wilson, in his Voyage round the World, mentions that he crossed several
parts of the Sahul Shoal on his passage from Timor to Raffles Bay, and
never found less than 14 fathoms.

On the 20th, at noon, we had no bottom with 131 fathoms, latitude 11
degrees 34 minutes and longitude 124 degrees 52 minutes East. Our
progress now appeared to improve. Strange to say, though apparently in the
very heart of the monsoon, we were favoured with a light breeze from the
south-east; and, to show how currents are governed by the wind, I may
remark that the current experienced this day had changed its direction from
North-North-East to West.

SCOTT'S REEF.

On the 24th, several water-snakes were seen, and in the afternoon, with a
light north-west wind, we passed about six miles from the north end of
Scott's Reef,* which we placed a few miles to the westward of its position
in the chart, and of which we shall take another opportunity of speaking.

(*Footnote. One of the discoveries of Captain Peter Heywood, R.N.)

Through God's mercy I was now so far recovered as to be able to crawl on
the poop to see this reef, but soon found that I had overrated my strength:

my back became affected; all power appeared to have deserted my limbs;
and I suffered dreadfully. Even to this day I feel the weakness in my back,
particularly in cold weather, or when I attempt to lift any great weight
suddenly.

Westerly winds, that increased as we got to the southward, brought us in
sight of Depuch Island, a level lump of land, on the evening of New Year's
Day, and at 7 P.M. we tacked in 15 fathoms, about twelve miles North-West
1/2 North from it. We spent a couple of days beating to westward in the
neighbourhood of the coast, from which the bank appeared to extend sixty
miles, with an equal number of fathoms on its edge.

January 14, 1840.

At noon, the same prevailing westerly winds brought us within fifty miles
of the north point of Sharks Bay, bearing South-East by South. On the same
evening we saw a herd of sperm whales. From that day we had a southerly
wind, which drawing round to the east as we got to the south, forced us
away from the land, so that from there our track to Swan River described
two sides of an acute-angled triangle; the 24th placing us somewhat further
than we were on the 14th, namely 700 miles west from our destination; but
at length we got a favourable wind to take us in.

DEATH AND BURIAL OF THE COOK.

January 21.

I must refer back to this date to record that a gloom was cast over the ship
in the morning, in consequence of the rigid hand of death having been laid
on one of our men, the cook, by name Mitchell, worn out by old age and
bodily infirmities. He breathed his last at midnight, and at 10 A.M. we
committed his body to the deep. There is perhaps no place where the burial
service has a more impressive effect than at sea; and in the present instance
the grave demeanour of the whole crew attested that it was so. The day too
was gloomy, and in keeping with the solemn scene; while a fresh breeze
gave the ship a steady keel. Occasionally the beautiful prayers were
interrupted by the roar of the foaming waters as the ship plunged onwards;
then swelling on the breeze and mingling with its wailings they were

wafted, we would fain hope, to that peaceful home to which we were
sending our shipmate. A chilling plunge announced his passage into the
mighty deep, leaving no trace to mark the spot on the wave, which swept on
as before.

The wandering and strange life of the deceased became the theme of
conversation during the day, and many interesting anecdotes were recalled.
On one occasion he had passed a few days in a vessel that had been turned
bottom up in a squall, but which, luckily, having a light and shifting cargo,
floated. His only companions were two negroes, who, with the apathy of
their race, spent the principal part of the time in sleep. It was by boring a
small hole through the vessel's bottom, and pushing up a stick with a
handkerchief attached, that they were enabled to attract the attention of a
passing ship, by whose people they were cut out. Old Mitchell's propensity
for fishing was very singular. Almost down to the last, when in his
hammock under the forecastle, he would have a line passed to him
whenever he heard fish playing about; and he would catch at it as it was
drawn through his fingers, until exhausted nature failing he fell into a
lethargic sleep. His situation latterly was peculiarly pitiable. Worldly affairs
and a future state were so painfully mingled, that it was impossible to
determine whether or not resignation predominated. He evidently recoiled
from the awful contemplation of futurity, and sought refuge in the things of
this life. Even whilst in the pangs of death he could not conceive why he
should be so cold, and why his feet could not be kept up to a heat which
nature, in obedience to the dictates of infinite wisdom, was gradually
resigning.

We arrived at Swan River on the 31st, under circumstances which must
forcibly illustrate to a landsman the precision with which a ship may be
navigated. We had not seen land for fifty-two days, and were steering
through a dense fog, which confined the circle of our vision to within a very
short distance round the ship. Suddenly the vapour for a moment dispersed,
and showed us, not more than a mile ahead, the shipping in Gage's Road.

We found a vast improvement in the colony of Western Australia since our
last visit, and again experienced the greatest hospitality from the colonists.
To the assiduous attentions of my much valued friend, the Surveyor-

General, Lieutenant Roe, R.N., I in great measure ascribe my rapid
recovery. He gave me a painfully interesting account of an excursion he had
made in search of the party left behind by Captain Grey during his
exploring expedition in the neighbourhood of Sharks Bay, with the
sufferings and disastrous termination of which the public have already been
made acquainted in the vivid language of the last-mentioned officer.

LIEUTENANT ROE'S ACCOUNT OF THE RESCUE OF CAPTAIN
GREY'S PARTY.

It was on one of those soft beautiful evenings, so common in Australia, that
I received this narrative from my friend. We had strolled from his cottage, at
the western extremity of the town of Perth, and had just emerged from the
patch of woodland, concealing it from the view of the Swan, which now lay
at our feet. About a mile below, the broad shadow of Mount Eliza, nearly
extended across the river; and in the darkness thus made, the snow-white
sails of a tiny pleasure-boat flitted to and fro. Beyond lay the beautiful lake-
like reach of the river, Melville Water, just ruffled by a breeze that came
sweeping over its surface with all the delicious coolness of the sea. The
beauty of the scene did not divert me from the events of my friend's story,
serving rather to impress them the more vividly on my mind. I remember
well the animated and affecting manner in which he delivered his narrative,
and how his hard features became lit up as he proceeded by an expression
of honest pride, fully justified by the fact that he had on that occasion been
the means of saving the lives of several of his fellow-creatures. When he
found them they were under a headland, which they had not sufficient
strength left to ascend, nor were they able to round the sea face of it. One of
them, finding all hope of proceeding further at an end, went down on his
knees and prayed to the almighty for assistance; and just as another had
bitterly remarked on the uselessness of proffering such a request, Mr. Roe
and his party, as if directed by the hand of Providence, appeared on the
ridge above them. It would be painful to describe minutely the condition to
which these poor fellows had been reduced; it will be sufficient to state, that
thirst had compelled them to resort to the most offensive substitute for pure
and wholesome water.

DEATH OF MR. FREDERIC SMITH.

One of their party, Mr. Frederick Smith, had been left behind; and so
bewildered were they in their despair, that they could give no definite
account of what had become of him. Mr. Roe immediately went in search,
and not many miles in the rear, found the poor fellow quite dead in a bush,
with his blanket half rolled round him. It appeared that he had tried to
scramble up a sandhill and had fallen back into the bush and died--a sad and
melancholy fate for one so young. He had laboured under great
disadvantages in walking, having cut his feet in very gallantly swimming
out to save one of the boats during a hurricane in Sharks Bay. He was
reduced to a perfect skeleton; having, in fact, been starved to death. The
sight drew forth a tributary tear of affection even from the native who
accompanied the party. Mr. Roe consigned poor young Smith's remains to
the earth, and setting up a piece of board to mark the spot, smoothed down
his lonely pillow, and moved with his companions in mournful silence
towards the south.

It must have been an impressive scene; the sun, as if conscious that he was
shining for the last time on the remains of the ill-fated young explorer,
seemed to linger as if unwilling to descend into the western horizon; and his
full red orb painted a number of light airy clouds that floated through the
sky in the most brilliant colours, and shed a stream of fire over the water as
it rolled with a mournful dirge-like sound on the strand close by. The howl
of a wild dog now and then fell on their ears as they performed their
melancholy task, and alone broke the stillness that reigned around, as they
retreated slowly along the beach.

Whilst on this humane excursion, Mr. Roe witnessed a wondrous gift
possessed by the natives. The one that accompanied him, perceiving
footmarks on the sand, where some of his countrymen had been, was
enabled by them to tell Mr. Roe, not only in what number they were, but
THE NAME OF EACH. This account was verified on their return to Perth,
from whence the natives had been sent during Mr. Roe's absence on the
same errand.

HURRICANE IN SHARKS' BAY.

The hurricane I have mentioned, as encountered by Captain Grey in Sharks
Bay, latitude 26 degrees South, occurred on February 28th, which,

corresponding with the hurricane season of the Mauritius, leaves little doubt
that at the same time the shores of New Holland are occasionally visited by
more easterly ones, moving in nearly the same direction. The other two
instances of hurricanes occurring in the neighbourhood are those of the
Ceres, in 1839, in latitude 21 degrees South, above 300 miles North-North-
West from Sharks Bay, and of the Maguashas towards the end of February,*
1843, in latitude 18 degrees South, about 400 miles north of the same place.
Ships, therefore, passing along the North-west coast of New Holland at the
season we have mentioned, should be prepared for bad weather. The
hurricane experienced by Captain Grey began at South-east and ended at
North-west. The lull in the centre of it showed that the focus of the storm
must have passed over that locality. Captain Grey does not enter sufficiently
into detail to enable us to trace the veering of the wind.

(*Footnote. In volume 1 will be found mention of the bad weather met with
by the Beagle in this month on the north-west coast. For further information
on this subject see Mr. Thom's interesting Inquiry into the Nature and
Course of Storms London 1845.)

An observation I made on visiting this time the upper course of the Swan, is
worth recording. Many parts were perfectly dry, more so than any I had
seen on the Victoria, and yet I was informed that last year those very parts
were running with a good stream. It seems reasonable to infer, therefore,
that in certain seasons of the year the Victoria, though dry in some places
when I visited it, is a full and rapid river.

During our stay the Colonial schooner, Champion, returned from an
unsuccessful search for the mouth of the Hutt River, discovered by Captain
Grey in the neighbourhood of Moresby's Flat-topped Range. Near the south
end of it, however, they found a bay affording good anchorage.

ROTTNEST ISLAND.

March 25.

We moved the ship to Rottnest Island, to collect a little material for the
chart, and select a hill for the site of a lighthouse. The one we chose lies
towards the south-east end of the island, bearing North 76 degrees West

(true) twelve miles and a quarter from Fremantle gaol. The Governor and
Mr. Roe accompanied us to Rottnest, where we found that a penal
establishment of Aboriginal prisoners had been formed during our absence.

ABORIGINAL CONVICTS.

No one would say that the Australian natives cannot work, if they could just
see the nice cottages of which this settlement is composed. The
Superintendent merely gives the convicts a little instruction at first, and
they follow his directions with astonishing precision. They take great pride
in showing visitors their own work. It is an interesting though sorrowful
sight to see these poor fellows--some of them deprived of their liberty for
life, perhaps for crimes into which they have been driven by the treatment
they receive from those who have deprived them both of their land and of
their liberty. Many, if not most of them, are in some measure unconscious of
guilt; and they are almost incapable of appreciating the relation between
what they have committed and the punishment which has fallen on them.
Their minds are plunged in the darkest ignorance; or if they know anything
beyond the means of satisfying their immediate wants, it is that they have
been deprived of their rightful possessions by the men whose chains they
wear. Surely this reflection should now and then present itself to the white
man who is accustomed to treat them so harshly, and induce him to judge
more leniently of their acts, and instead of confining himself to coersive
measures for protection, make him resort to the means which are within his
reach of raising the despised and oppressed savage more nearly to a level
with himself in the scale of humanity.

The native prisoners at Rottnest collect salt from the lagoons, cut wood, and
at present almost grow sufficient grain to keep them, so that in a short time
they will be a source of profit rather than of loss to the crown. Some of
them pine away and die; others appear happy. Generally, however, when a
fresh prisoner comes among them, great discontent prevails; they enquire
eagerly about their friends and families; and what they hear in reply recalls
vividly to their minds their wild roving life, their corrobories, the delights
of their homes; and of these, too, they are sometimes compelled to think
when a blue streak of smoke stealing over the uplands, catches their restless
eye, as it wanders instinctively forth in that direction from their island

prison. They will often gaze on these mementos of their former free life,
until their eyes grow dim with tears and their breasts swell with those
feelings which, however debased they may appear, they share in common
with us all. On these occasions they naturally turn with loathing to their
food. Those who suffer most are the oldest; for they have ties to which the
younger are strangers.

The rapidity with which the young ones grow up and improve in
appearance, in consequence of their regular food and the care taken of
them, is astonishing. They are allowed to have a common kind of spear,
though without any throwing stick; and sometimes receive permission to go
to the west end of the island to endeavour to kill wallaby, which are there
rather numerous.

We were happy to find that the attention of the public, and the Government
at home, had been drawn to the wrongs and sufferings of the Aborigines of
Australia; and that a desire of preserving them from deterioration and
ultimate destruction, had been evinced. Protectors had been sent out for the
purpose of attending especially to their interests, so that it was evident that
what was wanted was not goodwill towards them. It was easy, however, to
perceive that the system was a bad one, and to foretell its failure. The most
prominent feature in the plan adopted, was the gathering together of the
natives in the neighbourhood of settlers without previously providing them
with any means of subsistence, so that they were in a manner compelled to
have recourse to depredations.

AMERICAN WHALERS.

To show to what extent whaling is carried on in these seas by foreigners, I
may mention that during our stay at Swan River, I at one time counted as
many as thirteen American whalers at anchor. It was to be regretted that this
department of industry had been abandoned by the colonists, who however
derived considerable advantage from the barter trade they carried on with
the whale ships.

At Perth we found our old shipmate Miago, and were sorry to observe that
he was as great a savage as ever. He had got into considerable disgrace
among his fellows on account of his having performed one of these feats of

which he was so continually boasting on the North-west coast, namely,
carrying away a woman. He was hiding about, in momentary fear of being
speared by those whom he had injured.

BOTANY OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA.

Among the information obtained this time at Swan River, was the following
table, relating to the vegetable kingdom of Western Australia.

COLUMN 1: NAME COMMONLY GIVEN BY SETTLERS.
COLUMN 2: NATIVE NAME.
COLUMN 3: GENUS.
COLUMN 4: REMARKS.

Mahogany : Jarrail* : Eucalyptus : Grows on white sandy land.
Red gum : Kardan : Eucalyptus : On loamy land.
Bluegum : Co-lort : Eucalyptus : On river banks and flooded lands, a sure
indication of vicinity of water.
White gum : Wando : Eucalyptus : On stiff clay lands, sometimes tapped for
water contained in hollow trunk.
York gum : To-art : Eucalyptus : Abundant in York--on good soil.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth:
Gnardarup : Eucalyptus : Like several stems twisted together, abondant in
interior.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth:
Wooruc : Eucalyptus : Brown glossy stem, smooth.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth:
Gnelarue : Eucalyptus : Nankeen-coloured stem.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth:
Mallat : Eucalyptus : Tall, straight, rough bark.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth:
Morrail : Eucalyptus : Nearly similar.
Cable gum, these varieties all seen in the interior, not common at Perth:
Balwungar : Eucalyptus : Glaucus-leaved.
Honeysuckle : Mang-ghoyte : Banksia : Large flowering cones
containinghoney.
Honeysuckle : Be-al-wra : Banksia : Large flowering cones containing
honey.

Black wattle : Kile-yung : Acacia : Indication of good soil--produces
gum.
Broom or Stinkwood : Cab-boor : - : Light sandy loam.
Holly : Tool-gan : Hakea : Sandy soil--produces gum.
Cabbage tree : Mote yar : Nuytsia floribella : Gum in abundance.
Beef tree or the oak : - : Casuarina.
Palm tree : Djir-jy or jirjy : Zamia media, gl. : Red fruit, nut, called baio,
ripe in March, is considered a delicacy by the natives.
Raspberry jam : Maug-art : Acacia : Sweet scented--grows on good gruund.
Raspberry jam : Minnung : Acacia : Gum very abundant.
Blackboy : Balga : Zantha hast : Gum on the spear--resin on the trunk.
York nut : Madda : - : Smells like sandalwood.
Red apple : Quonni : - : Affects salt grounds.
Swamp oak : Yeymbac : - : Name applies rather to the paper-like bark--used
to hold water, to cover houses, etc.
Rough-topped blackboy : Barro : Zantha : Resin makes a powerful cement.
Native yam : Werrang : - : Said to grow to a large size to the North.
Native potato : Tubuc : Orchis.
Native turnip : Canno.
New Zealand flax : - : Phormium tenax : This grows pretty abnndantly, I
forget the native name.

(*Footnote. The letter a is sounded broad and full as in Father.)

SAFETY OF GAGE ROADS.

The result of our soundings between Rottnest Island and the main, showed
that a bank extended out to the north-east, from the foul ground off the
Stragglers, sufficiently to check, in some measure, the vast body of water
rolling in from the north-west; and thereby adding to the safety of Gage
Roads, provided vessels anchor in the proper berth, which is in seven or
eight fathoms, on sandy mud, about a mile from the gaol, bearing East by
North. A quarter of a mile nearer the shore the bottom shoals rapidly to four
and three fathoms, on rocky ground slightly coated with sand. It is therefore
not likely a ship, well found, can drag her anchor up a bank so steep as that
inclination in the bottom forms. The wrecks that have occurred in this
anchorage may be traced to vessels not selecting a proper berth. From their

desire to be near the shore they get into the shoal rocky ground; a breeze
comes on when they are in no way prepared, in the midst of discharging
cargo; and in some cases, before a second anchor can be let go, the ship is
driven on shore. Thus, through the want of judgment exhibited by a few
individuals, has a whole community suffered in the manner I have alluded
to, when speaking of the loss of the Orontes at Port Essington.*

(*Footnote. See volume 1.)

CHAPTER 2.5.

Sail from Swan River.
Search for the supposed Turtle-dove Shoal.
Approach to Houtman's Abrolhos.
Find an anchorage.
View of the Lagoon.
Guano.
Remnants of the wreck of the Batavia.
Pelsart Group.
Visit the Main.
Geelvink Channel.
Enter Champion Bay.
Appearance of the Country.
Striking resemblance of various portions of the coast of Australia.
Leave Champion Bay.
Coast to the northward.
Resume our examination of the Abrolhos.
Easter Group.
Good Friday Harbour.
Lizards on Rat Island.
Coral formation.
Snapper Bank.
Zeewyk Passage.
Discoveries on Gun Island.
The Mangrove Islets.
Singular Sunset.
Heavy gale.

Wallaby Islands.
Flag Hill.
Slaughter Point.
Observations of Mr. Bynoe on the Marsupiata.
General character of the reefs.
Tidal observations.
Visit North Island.
Leave Houtman's Abrolhos.
General observations.
Proceed to Depuch Island.
Drawings on the rocks.
Native youth.
New bird and kangaroo.
Effects of Mirage.
Examine coast to the Turtle Isles.
Geographe Shoals.
Number of turtles.
Bedout Island.
Scott's Reef.
Approach to Timor.
Pulo Douw.
Scene on entering Coepang Bay.
Surprise of Swan River native.
Visit to the Resident.
His stories.
Fort Concordia.
Second visit to the Resident.
The Timorees.
Arrive at Pritie.
Description of the country.
Muster of the shooting party.
Success of the excursion.
The Javanese Commandant.
Character of the Timorees.
Dutch settlement in New Guinea.
Leave Coepang.
Island of Rottee.

Tykal Inlet.
Inhabitants of Polo Douw.

SAIL FROM SWAN RIVER.

The improved state of the colony enabling us to get supplies, it was
resolved that we should return to the North-west coast, examining on the
way, Houtman's Abrolhos, a coral group that had very rarely been visited,
since the Dutch ships were lost on them, one 120 and the other 220 years
ago, and of which next to nothing was known.

Not being able to persuade Miago to accompany us, he being too much
engaged with his new wife, we enlisted the services of a native youth who
generally went by the name of Tom, and left Gage Roads on the afternoon
of April 4th.

Off the west end of Rottnest a sail was seen, which we afterwards found, to
our mortification, was H.M.S. Britomart, from Port Essington. We had
another fruitless search for the bank reported to the northward of Rottnest.
Steering North-North-West from the west end of it, the soundings increased
gradually to 35 fathoms, till passing Cape Leschenault at the distance of
twenty-two miles; but afterwards, no bottom with 50 fathoms, till reaching
the latitude of 31 degrees 7 minutes South, where the coast projecting,
brought us again within twenty miles of it, and into a depth of 45 fathoms.
We continued in soundings till in latitude 30 degrees 36 minutes South,
varying from 26 to 98 fathoms, seventeen miles from the land with the
former, and twenty-five with the latter depth, which shows the extent and
steepness of the bank of soundings fronting the coast, between the parallels
I have mentioned.

THE ABROLHOS GROUP.

April 6.

There was unusual weather last night, overcast with a squally westerly
wind. Just laying our course North-North-West, at noon we were in latitude
29 degrees 11 minutes South, on the position assigned to a reef called the
Turtle Dove. From the masthead I could see nothing indicating a shoal.

Captain King passed near this position, and also remarks not seeing it. The
Colonial schooner Champion, in beating to the southward, has passed over
and near its assigned position, and I think we may fairly infer that there is
no such reef as the Turtle Dove, and that probably it originated from the
south end of the Abrolhos reef, ten miles North-North-West of it, being
seen. We found 29 fathoms on this supposed shoal, with 35, twelve miles
South by East of it, and 127, twenty-eight miles in the same direction.
Between it and the south end of the Abrolhos Group the water deepened to
35 fathoms. In approaching the nearest island we passed close round the
south-east end of a reef, running out about a mile from the south point, and
then trending away round in a North-west by North direction, so as to form
one side of a lagoon, whilst the island I have mentioned--a long narrow
strip trending North-east by North--forms the other. The weather looking
unsettled, the wind being from the south-west, with slight rain squalls, we
were glad to find shelter, so near the commencement of our work, in a bight
on the east side of the island, three quarters of a mile from the south point,
where we anchored in 13 fathoms, scarcely a quarter of a mile from the
shore. A coral patch, of two and a half fathoms, with only two on its
northern extreme, confines this anchorage, which affords shelter from
South-South-East round by West to North-east by North. The tide rose here
32 inches.

From the masthead I got a tolerably good view of the island, in some places
scarcely a cable wide, and a number of islets scattered to the north-west.
The lagoon at this place was not more than three miles across, though
marked twelve in the old charts; and I could trace the long line of white
breakers rolling in on the other side in solemn grandeur, contrasting
strongly in their foaming turbulence with the placid waters within the
protection of the reef and island. I could clearly distinguish the limit of the
danger in this direction, and that there was nothing to break the swell
beyond. The surface of the lagoon was diversified by blue and grey patches,
showing the alternations of shoal and deep water; near the centre there
appeared to be a channel, which we afterwards found to be ten fathoms
deep.

In the head of the bight where we were anchored, there was a narrow low
sandy neck, placed by our observations in latitude 28 degrees 58 minutes 26

seconds South and longitude 1 degree 47 minutes 32 seconds west of Swan
River,* over which we hauled a boat to examine the opposite side of the
lagoon.

(*Footnote. As we shall refer all longitudes during this cruise to Scott's
Jetty, Swan River, I may here state that the approximate longitude of that
place is considered to be 115 degrees 47 minutes East of Greenwich.)

A few remarkable clumps of mangroves pointed out the position of some
lagoons about a mile and a half from the south end of the island, which is
fronted by a line of low overhanging cliffs of recent, cream-coloured
limestone. Upon these rests a layer of a kind of soil, in some places
eighteen inches deep, in others four feet, in which the seabirds burrow, and
which, from what I have since seen of the much sought after guano, I
believe to contain some of the valuable substance. In some of the islands
forming Houtman's Abrolhos which we subsequently examined, I found
similar signs of the presence of this manure, which I think worthy of being
made the subject of enquiry.

On the south part of the island I found a block of scoria measuring three
feet by two; which, though not appearing to possess the power of floating,
must have been brought by the current from the volcanic island of St.
Paul's. We saw a few hair-seals on the beach when we landed, and a rich
kind of rock oyster was found at low-water.

PELSART GROUP.

On the south west point of the island the beams of a large vessel were
discovered, and as the crew of the Zeewyk, lost in 1728, reported having
seen the wreck of a ship on this part, there is little doubt that the remains
were those of the Batavia, Commodore Pelsart, lost in 1627. We in
consequence named our temporary anchorage Batavia Road, and the whole
group Pelsart Group. It was the wreck of this Dutch ship that led to the
discovery of this part of the continent of Australia, Commodore Pelsart
himself having crossed over to it in a boat in search of water.

VISIT TO THE MAIN.

April 8.

In the afternoon we got underweigh, with a fresh south wind. The low neck
over which the boat was hauled, and which appeared like a gap from the
offing, bearing west, led clear to the northward of the two fathom patch. We
steered across East by South 1/2 South for the main, losing sight of the
island from the Beagle's poop (height 15 feet) at the distance of five miles
and a half. Three miles further brought us in sight of the land, forming a
high level range, with a knob or lump on its south extreme. Some five or six
miles to the south-east were seen isolated peaks, which we rightly supposed
to be the Wizard Hills of Captain King, whilst the lump above spoken of
proved to be Mount Fairfax, the level range being Moresby's Flat-topped
Range. As we neared them the Menai Hills began to show themselves.

Our soundings, after leaving the island, deepened quickly to 30 and 35
fathoms. Six miles from it the depth decreased to 23 fathoms. We stood off
and on during the night, the current setting North-North-West a mile an
hour. The space between the Abrolhos and the main bears the name of
Geelvink Channel, after Vlaming's ship, the first that ever passed through
(A.D. 1680).

The chief object of the Beagle's visit to the main was to ascertain the
position of a good anchorage, before spoken of as reported at Swan River to
be under the south-west end of Moresby's Flat-topped Range. The
favourable account which Captain Grey had given of the country behind the
range made the knowledge of a good anchorage in its neighbourhood of
vast importance. Captain King missed this portion of the coast by crossing
over to the Abrolhos, which he places some five miles too much to the
westward, the lowness of the island deceiving him, as indeed it at first did
us. The reef off the south-west end, however, he has rightly fixed.

April 9.

At daylight the ship was in 24 fathoms, fifteen miles from Wizard Hills,
bearing South 70 degrees East. As we neared the shore, steering North-East
by North we saw a low point, running out west from the south end of
Moresby's Range, fronted by heavy breakers, particularly to the north-west.
Behind, the water was quite smooth, and promised a snug anchorage. We

passed round the reef in 13 1/2 fathoms, at the distance of a half, and three-
quarters of a mile; but we did not haul into the bay until some suspicious
spots had been sounded over by a boat. Finding not less than four and a half
fathoms, we stood in, Mount Fairfax bearing east. The small table hill
forming the north-west extreme of the Menai Hills, bearing North 11
degrees East, leads clear to the westward of the reef. Between this and the
north point of the bay the water occasionally lifts suspiciously. Inside the
depth is regular, five and six fathoms, fine white sand.

CHAMPION BAY.

To this anchorage was given the name of Champion Bay; whilst the
projection sheltering it from the south-west was called Point Moore, after
the Attorney-general at Swan River, who visited it in the Colonial schooner.
We anchored early in the forenoon in four fathoms, Mount Fairfax bearing
North 81 degrees East five miles and three-quarters; Point Moore South 49
degrees West one mile, the end of the reef North 60 degrees West also one
mile, and a bare-topped brown sandhill, South 33 degrees East, three-
quarters of a mile. Immediately under the last-mentioned the observations
were made, placing that spot in latitude 28 degrees 47 minutes 8 seconds
South and longitude 1 degree 9 minutes 20 seconds West of Swan River. A
most singular ridge of very white sandhills lay a quarter of a mile to the
eastward.

ELEVATION OF THE HILLS.

A plan of the bay was made, and the elevation of the neighbouring heights
taken; Mount Fairfax proving to be 585 feet, and Wizard Peak 700 feet.

I regretted there was not time to visit Moresby's Flat-topped Range, as we
might have got a glimpse of the good land reported by Captain Grey in the
neighbourhood. The sides of the high lands look fertile over the sandhills of
the bay; but through a spy-glass I found that they had a brown arid
appearance and were destitute of timber.

I was forcibly struck with the resemblance between Moresby's Range, Sea
Range on the Victoria, Cape Flattery on the north-east coast, and I may add,
from Flinders' description, the cliffs forming the coast range at the head of

the Australian Bight. The great similarity in the elevation, all being between
500 and 700 feet, is still more remarkable. To bring this great resemblance
between opposite portions of the Australian continent before the reader, I
have inserted sketches of those parts which were seen in the Beagle.

VIEWS OF MORESBY'S RANGE, SEA RANGE, AND CAPE
BEDFORD.

The beach in the south corner of Champion Bay, having the appearance of
being seldom visited by a surf, it is possible that a small vessel may be
sheltered by the reef in north-west gales, which the anchorage is exposed to,
and which, therefore, can only be considered safe in the summer season.
Five miles to the southward of Point Moore there is another bay, which
appeared much exposed to the prevailing winds. The shore between is rocky
with outlying reefs.

LEAVE CHAMPION BAY.

April 10.

We left Champion Bay at daylight, with a moderatE south wind and fine
weather, and passed over some uneven ground south-west of the north
point, soundings varying from five to seven fathoms, sand and rock, which
though at a quiet time, almost formed breakers.

APPEARANCE OF THE COAST.

As we ran along to the northward, the coast was lined with sandhills very
partially dotted with vegetation. Behind these was a margin of brown arid-
looking downs, receding to the foot of the uplands. Twenty miles of the
coastline from Champion Bay trended North 29 degrees West.

At noon we were in latitude 28 degrees 26 minutes South; the Menai Hills,
a group lying just off the north end of Moresby's Flat-topped Range,
bearing South 73 degrees East ten miles. A valley or ravine, through which
probably a rivulet* runs in the wet season, bore North 83 degrees East two
miles, and a singular large patch of sand, 270 feet above the sea, North 22
degrees East two miles and a half. North of this patch the land changes its
appearance; the bare sandhills cease, and a steep-sided down, 300 feet high,
faces the coastline. Our track was from two to three miles from the shore, in
19 and 22 fathoms, fine white sand; a heavy surf washing the beach. South-
east of the Menai Hills the country appeared much broken, with high table
ranges of from 4 to 700 feet.

(*Footnote. This (in latitude 28 degrees 25 minutes South) may have been
one of the rivers discovered by Captain Grey, but which it was impossible
for us to determine, as no account of them had been left with the Surveyor-
general, Mr. Roe.)

It was now necessary to resume our examination of the Abrolhos, and
thirty-one miles on a West 1/4 South course, brought us between two
groups of them, where we anchored for the night in 23 fathoms. The
soundings in standing across Geelvink Channel, were 22 and 26 fathoms,
fine white sand; the current ran North-North-West, a mile an hour.

April 11.

At daylight we found that the summit of a large island, in the centre of the
group to the northward, bore North 21 1/2 degrees West about nine miles.

GOOD FRIDAY HARBOUR.

We now beat to the southward in search of a harbour, where the ship might
lie in safety whilst we went to work with the boats, and were fortunate
enough to discover one close to the north-east point of a large island lying
in the centre of the group to the southward; which we named Easter Group,
and the harbour Good Friday Harbour, to commemorate the season of the
Christian year, at which we visited it. Perhaps at some future period, when
the light of the gospel shall have penetrated to every part of the vast
Australian continent, these sacred names, bestowed by us upon some of its
outworks, may be pronounced with pleasure, as commemorative of the time
when the darkness of ignorance and superstition was just beginning to
disperse.

Good Friday Harbour, like all coral harbours, requires to be taken by eye,
being full of coral knolls, which necessitate the utmost vigilance. In itself,
however, it is an excellent port, capable of holding a large number of ships,
and with a general depth, between the coral patches, of from 15 to 17
fathoms, with a fine muddy sandy bottom. The eastern extremity of the
large island bearing South by East 1/2 East led into the harbour. As we
threaded our way among the patches of coral, the view from the masthead
of the submarine forests through the still pellucid water was very striking.
The dark blue of the deep portions of the lagoon contrasted beautifully with
the various patches of light colours interspersed.

We found to our surprise that the group into which we had penetrated was
entirely distinct from that under which we had first anchored to the
southward, so that we had already discovered the Abrolhos to form three
separate groups.

RAT ISLAND.

The centre island we named Rat Island, from the quantity of that vermin
with which it was infested. We also saw here a few seals, and numbers of a
very pretty lizard (figured in the appendix) with its tail covered with spines.
Several of these were brought away alive. I had two myself for nine months
on board, and afterwards presented them to Lady Gipps. Of those taken by
Lieutenant Emery, he was so fortunate as to bring one alive to England, in
1841. It is still in his possession, and thrives remarkably well. In one of his
last letters he writes to me as follows on the subject: "The Abrolhos lizard is

very docile, and knows Mrs. Emery quite well, and will eat and drink out of
her hand; but is timid with strangers. Its habits are rather torpid, but it
becomes active when in the sun or before the fire. It eats so very little that a
piece of sponge cake about the size of a small bean will satisfy it for three
or four weeks. It changes its skin twice a year."

The formation of Rat Island resembles that already noticed in Pelsart
Group; there were the same low overhanging cream-coloured limestone
cliffs, to the height of half the island; the greatest elevation of which was 13
feet, with a similar soil, mixed with guano, and filled with burrows of the
sooty petrel, or mutton bird. Surrounding it is a low coral reef, trending
northward to the outer edge of the group.

CORAL FORMATION.

This reef afforded me an opportunity of examining the coral formation of
the Abrolhos, which, with the exception of Bermuda, is the place farthest
removed from the equator where coral formation is found. The reef on
which Rat Island rests extends off four hundred yards on the inner side, and
has 12 fathoms just off it, on a grey sandy mud. The greater portion is
composed of a variety of corals intermixed, and forming a consolidated
mass, with brain-stones scattered over. It is nearly dry at low-water; but a
portion does not rise so high, projecting out so as to form a narrow shelf,
from the edge of which a wall descends almost sheer to the depth of 54 feet.
The upper 20 feet are formed of a peculiar kind of coral, growing in the
shape of huge fans, spreading out from stout stems overlapping each other
in clusters, and having angular cavities between. The coral forming the
lower 34 feet of the wall is of the common large branch kind.

Whilst in Good Friday Harbour the quarter-master reported smoke on one
of the islands to the north-east. All eyes were instantly turned in that
direction, in curiosity to find what could have caused it. And sure enough a
long streak of smoke was curling upwards through the air. It soon however
appeared that it rose from some fire on the main, distant about thirty-five
miles, and that its being visible by us was owing to the extreme clearness of
the atmosphere.

The observation spot on Rat Island was on the north-east end, which we
placed in latitude 32 degrees 42 minutes 50 seconds South and longitude 1
degree 57 minutes 50 seconds West of Swan River. Having completed our
work in the harbour, we left, for the purpose of securing the requisite
material for the north-east part of this group, which we found to be a
detached cluster with deep-water between, and to be also similarly
separated from the extreme of the group--a small isle about five feet high,
composed of sand and dead coral. The average depth surrounding the
islands was 20 and 23 fathoms, being the same level as that of the great flat
or plain on which they rest, and which extends out from the mainland,
shelving off at the outer edge of the southern part of the Abrolhos almost
precipitously to no bottom with 250 fathoms. We now proceeded
southward, to examine the opening between Easter and Pelsart Groups, and
to complete the extremity of the northern part of the latter.

SNAPPER BANK.

On our way we discovered a coral bank of 7 fathoms, a mile and a half
long, seven miles East-South-East from the north-east end of Easter Group.
We called it Snapper Bank, from the immense quantity of that fish which
we found on it. In half an hour we caught more than we could cure, so that
it became necessary to stop the sport. This shows what a lucrative trade
might be carried on by the people of Swan River with the Mauritius; for the
lake on the island of Rottnest affording a large supply of salt, any quantity
of fish might easily be caught and cured. The whole group is abundantly
supplied, though nowhere so plentifully as at Snapper Bank.

From near the south-east end of this bank the main was visible from the
Beagle's poop. Here we anchored for the night in 24 fathoms, and next
morning stood out to sea between Easter and Pelsart Groups to ascertain if
there were any more reefs to the westward, though the long unbroken swell
was almost sufficient to convince us that there were none.

SOUNDINGS BETWEEN THE GROUPS.

In a line between the outer reefs of the two groups the depth was 36
fathoms; a mile and a half further in we had 29; but outside it deepened off
suddenly to no bottom with 70, and in two miles and a half to none with

170. Before returning we tried for bottom with 250; but, as has been already
mentioned, without success. Outside the reef we felt a current setting a mile
an hour North-North-West. In standing in again we passed close round the
north-west end of the reef encircling Pelsart Group, in 31 fathoms, and
anchored in 17, just without a line of discoloured water, which we found to
have 5 fathoms in the outer part, extending across the mouth of the lagoon;
the largest island bearing South by West one mile and three-quarters.

GUN ISLAND. DUTCH REMAINS.

April 24.

In the morning the boats were despatched on their ordinary work, and
Captain Wickham and myself landed on the largest island, a quarter of a
mile long, forming the north-western extreme of Pelsart Group, and which
we named Gun Island, from our finding on it a small brass four-pounder of
singular construction, now deposited in the United Service Museum (see the
cut annexed) with quantities of ornamental brasswork for harness, on which
the gilding was in a wonderful state of preservation; a number of glass
bottles and pipes, and two Dutch doits, bearing date 1707 and 1720. This
was a very interesting discovery, and left no doubt that we had found the
island on which the crew of the Zeewyk were wrecked, in 1727, and where
they remained so long, whilst building, from the fragments of their vessel, a
sloop, in which they got to sea by the passage between Easter and Pelsart
Groups, which has consequently been called Zeewyk Passage. The scene of
their disaster must have been on the outer reef, a mile and three-quarters
south-west from Gun Island, along which ran a white ridge of high
breakers.

ANCIENT DUTCH GUN.

The glass bottles I have mentioned were of a short stout Dutch build, and
were placed in rows, as if for the purpose of collecting water; some of them
were very large, being capable of holding five or six gallons; they were in
part buried in the sand, and the portion which was left exposed to the air
presented a singular appearance, being covered with a white substance that
had eaten away the glaze. A number of seal bones were noticed on this
island; and I have no doubt they are the remains of those that were killed by
the crew of the Zeewyk for their subsistence. On the north end of the island
was a hole containing brackish water; when we dug it deeper the salt water
poured in. The next small islet to the East-South-East we discovered to be
that on which the Dutchmen had built their sloop. On the west side of it was
a spot free from coral reefs, thus offering them facilities, nowhere else
afforded, for launching the bark which ultimately carried them in safety to
Batavia.

A mile and a half to the southward of Gun Island, opposite a singular-
looking indentation in the outer side of the reefs, a small cluster of cliffy
islets approaches within half a mile of them. It is rather singular that in
another of the group--larger than Gun Island, lying in the centre of the
lagoon, and the only one not visited by the Beagle's boats--water should
have been found by a party who came from Swan River to save the wreck
of a ship lost in 1843, close to the spot on which the Batavia struck more
than two hundred years ago. This island is called in the chart Middle Island.
The well is on the south point, and the water, which is very good, rises and
falls with the tide. Doubtless this must have been the island on which the
crew of Pelsart's ship found water, though for some time they were deterred
from tasting it by observing its ebb and flow, from which they inferred it
would prove salt. The north point of Gun Island, which our observations
placed in latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds South, longitude 1
degree 53 minutes 35 seconds West of Swan River, is fronted for half a mile
by a reef.

MANGROVE ISLETS.

The ship was now moved to the north-east extreme of the lagoon, to which
we crossed in 17 fathoms--the depth we anchored in, a mile north-west
from a cluster of islets covered in places with mangroves, from which they

receive their name. To the southward the depth in the lagoon, as far as a
square-looking island, was 15 and 16 fathoms. The north extreme of the
south island lay three miles to the south east of the Mangrove Islets, by
which we found that its length was nearly ten miles, with a general width of
about a tenth of a mile.

One of the eastern Mangrove Islets was a mere caY, formed of large flat
pieces of dead coral, of the same kind as that of which I have before spoken
as resembling a fan, strewed over a limestone foundation one foot above the
level of the sea, in the greatest possible confusion, to the height of five feet.
In walking over them they yielded a metallic sound. Pelsart, like Easter
Group, is marked by a detached islet lying a mile off its north-east extreme.

May 3.

We fetched in under the Lee of Easter Group as the north-west gale of this
morning commenced. The barometer did not indicate the approach of the
gale, falling with it, and acting as in those we had encountered at Swan
River.

SINGULAR SUNSET.

The sunset of the two days preceding had presented a very lurid appearance,
and the most fantastically shaped clouds had been scattered over the red
western sky. It seemed as though nature had determined to entertain us with
a series of dissolving views. Headlands and mountains with cloud-capped
pinnacles appeared and faded away; ships under sail floated across the sky;
towers and palaces reared their forms indistinctly amid the vapour, and then
vanished, like the baseless fabric of a dream.

The winds since the 29th had been very easterly; but early on the 1st
became fresh from north-east; a stagnant suspicious calm then succeeded,
during the forenoon of the 2nd. At noon the glassy surface of the water
began to darken here and there in patches with the first sighing of the
breeze, which soon became steady at north-west, and troubled the whole
expanse as far as the eye could reach.

HEAVY GALE.

It was not, however, as I have said, before daylight of the 3rd that the gale
commenced in earnest, continuing with great violence, accompanied with
heavy squalls of rain, till noon next day, when the wind had veered to
South-South-West. During this time the whole aspect of the scene was
changed; immense dark banks of clouds rested on the contracted horizon;
the coral islands by which we were surrounded loomed indistinctly through
the driving mist; and the decks were drenched by heavy showers that
occurred at intervals. The wind blew hardest from West-North-West, and
began to moderate about nine on the morning of the 4th, when it had got
round to south-west. The current during this breeze set a mile and a half
East-South-East, changing again to the northward as the wind veered round
to the southward. This clearly shows how certainly, in this neighbourhood,
the movements of the air influence those of the sea.

WATER-SPOUTS.

It was the evening of the 5th before all was again clear overhead. In the
morning, however, we shifted our berth, which had been a mile from the
south extreme of the detached cluster of islets forming the north-east end of
Easter Group. Several small water-spouts formed near the ship as we were
about to weigh, which induced us to wait a little until they passed.

On the 8th we bore away for the northern group in 26 and 27 fathoms; the
space between was named Middle Passage.

WALLABY ISLANDS.

Passing outside of a patch of breakers, lying two miles to the northward of
the eastern islet, we hauled up south-east, and by feeling our way with the
boats got the ship into a snug harbour on the south-east side of the highest
island of the Abrolhos, which was afterwards named East Wallaby Island;
another large one, named West Wallaby Island, lying two miles to the West-
South-West with three small flat islets just between. To these we gave the
name of Pigeon Islands, the common bronze-winged pigeon being found
there in great numbers. The harbour we named Recruit Harbour, from its
affording fresh supplies of the small kangaroo, in addition to the fish found
everywhere else. Like the other ports in the Abrolhos, it is full of coral
patches; the south point of north Pigeon Island, in one with a bare sandhill

on the South-East point of West Wallaby Island, bearing South 50 degrees
West, leads into the harbour clear of the spit on the north-west side and
some coral patches on the east. In entering we had 7 and 8 fathoms, but the
depth inside is 11 and 12; it is perfectly sheltered on all sides.

These islands, after the others, of which the greatest height is 12 feet,
appear of considerable altitude; though the loftiest point rising on the north-
east extreme of East Wallaby Island, measures no more than 50 feet. This
island is upwards of a mile each way; whilst the west one is two miles and a
half long, and one broad. In the centre of the eastern is a low flat, with hills
rising all around, with the exception of the south side.

FLAG HILL.

The loftiest, which is called Flag Hill, is, as I have mentioned, on the north-
eastern extreme, and has a long finger-shaped point running out from its
foot in a north-east direction, to which we gave the name of Fish Point,
from the number of snappers we caught there. They were so voracious that
they even allowed themselves to be taken with a small bit of paper for a
bait. Flag Hill is a rock formed of sand and comminuted shells; while the
flat which stretches to the south-west from its foot is of limestone
formation. In it we found a kind of cavern, about 15 feet deep, with a
sloping entrance, in which was some slightly brackish water, that in
percolating through the roof had formed a number of stalactites.

A reef, which dries in patches at low-water, connects the east and west
Wallaby Islands. On the south-west point of the latter are some sandhills 30
feet high; and on that side also is a dense scrub, in which the mutton birds
burrow, so that it forms rather troublesome walking.

SLAUGHTER POINT. NEW SPECIES OF WALLABY.

The northern end is a level, stony flat, terminating towards the sea in
projecting cliffs six or eight feet high; with patches of bushes large enough
to serve as fuel here and there, all full of a new species of wallaby, which,
being plentiful on both the large islands, suggested their name. The reader
will obtain a good idea of the numbers in which these animals were found,
when I state that on one day, within four hours, I shot 36, and that between

three guns we killed 76, averaging in weight about seven pounds each;
which gave rise to the name of Slaughter Point for the eastern extreme of
the island.

As there is no record of the Dutch having visited the northern group, it is
impossible to say whether wallaby were then found on it or not. How they
could have got there is a mystery, as there were no large floating masses
likely to have carried them from the main. The species has been described
from a specimen we obtained, as Halmaturus houtmannii; it is distinct from
Halmaturus derbyanis, found on most of the islands on the southern parts of
the continent.

We shall now fulfil our promise to the reader by laying before him the result
of Mr. Bynoe's interesting observations on the Marsupiata, which the
number of wallaby killed at Houtman's Abrolhos afforded him the means of
perfecting. I may preface his remarks by stating, that all the information I
could gain from the colonists on the subject was, that the young of the
kangaroo were born on the nipple, which my own experience appears to
corroborate.

MR. BYNOE'S OBSERVATIONS ON THE MARSUPIATA.

"My first examination," says Mr. Bynoe, "of the kangaroo tribe, to any
extent, occurred at the Abrolhos; there I had an extensive field for
ascertaining the exact state of the uteri of the wallaby of those islands. I
opened between two and three hundred, and never found even the
rudiments of an embryo; but in the pouch I have seen the young adhering to
the nipple from the weight of half a dram to eight ounces and upwards. On
examination, the only substance found in the womb when the animal was
young and full grown, was a cheese-like substance of a straw colour: I
likewise found a similar substance in the pouch around the nipples, and in
many instances where the nipples were much retracted, it completely
covered them, but it was of a darker hue than that in the uterus, and of a
saponaceous or greasy feel; the aperture of the pouch so much contracted as
scarcely to admit two fingers; wombs with their cornua remarkably small,
and nipples in the pouch scarcely pointing, and in many instances retracted.

"Animals with these appearances, I concluded, had never borne young.
Examinations frequently took place immediately after they were shot. In
those that had recently discarded their young from the pouch, one nipple
and frequently two were found much lengthened, and very often one more
than the other. I have seen them in the wallaby frequently two inches in
length, and with pouches so large, that you could with ease thrust your hand
into them; the uteri with their appendages enlarged and apparently very
vascular, as well as thickened; but in no one instance at the Abrolhos could I
detect a gravid uterus; but I have seen the young adhering to the nipples less
than half an inch in length, and in a perfectly helpless state. It is generally
supposed that the uterus in the adult animal is not supplied with much
arterial blood, merely sufficient to nourish that viscus. If such be the case,
can it have the power of retaining the germ in the womb, when on the most
minute examination of the young, I could not detect, by cicatrice or line of
abrasion on any part of the abdomen, that they ever possessed umbilical
vessels, or had been in any way nourished by a placenta? Let us take into
consideration the small size of the animal found in the pouch, its utter
helplessness, its slight power of motion, and its firm attachment to the
nipple. The more it is in the embryonic state the firmer is its attachment to
the mother; to separate it from the nipple requires some force; the
surrounding parts of the opening of the mouth, after separation, bleed
profusely, and the animal has no power to close it; the opening remains
gaping and circular, the animal lies on its side, and if very young, soon dies.
On each side of the opening is a line showing the extent of the mouth.
When arrived at greater maturity it can make no noise until the mouth is
fully developed, and then a faint hissing note; it has no power to stand until
very large, and the hair is about to shoot out from the skin. An animal in so
helpless a situation could not possibly, with all the aids and contrivances of
the mother, attach itself to the nipple and produce adhesion of the oral
aperture, when even at a later period it has no motion of life or power to
close that opening. The retention in the uterus must be of short duration. I
have been led to these conclusions from examinations on the banks of the
Victoria River. A flying doe, inhabiting the grass flats, of more than
ordinary size, was killed. In thrusting my fingers into the pouch, I found
that the mammary glands were remarkably enlarged, pressing forcibly into
that cavity. I questioned the seaman who took up the animal, immediately
after being shot, whether he had taken the young out, and received a

negative answer. Finding the mammary glands so extremely enlarged, I was
induced (although pressed for time) to examine the uterus, and posterior
and internal parts of those glands--the cornua as well as the other parts of
the uterus were much thickened, and apparently highly injected with blood.
On opening the cavity I found it throughout thickly coated with slimy or
mucal secretion (the only uterus found by me in this state.) I now extended
my examination in front of the womb to the posterior part of the mammae,
and in doing so discovered a small gelatinous mass, about twice the size of
a pea. On a closer inspection, it appeared to be retained in a thin transparent
tube. I watched the substance narrowly and could distinctly perceive the
rudiments of an animal. The feet were not developed, but pulsation and
motion were not only observed by me, but by two of the men with me, both
exclaiming "look at the little animal!" although I feel convinced that they
did not know what I was searching for. There was not time to examine
further into its state. I carefully removed the uterus, the apparent embryo
and the mammae, and put it in a wide-mouthed bottle with some spirits, and
gave it in charge of the seaman who was to carry a portion of the animal for
the dinner of that day. It was placed in a canvas bag, but on crossing a Deep
watercourse he had the misfortune to break the bottle, which he never
mentioned until the following day. The contents soon dried up and became
an uniform mass. The intense heat had rendered it so firm that nothing
could be made of it; all the gelatinous parts had adhered so firmly to the
bag, that I was compelled to abandon it. My object was to ascertain if there
was a communication in a greater state of development between the womb
and posterior part of the mammae, during the period of gestation; and I was
fancying I had arrived at some conclusion, but all my hopes were destroyed
by one fatal smash! So many theories have been formed on that point--that
to advance this as a fact, would be treading too firmly on tender ground. At
the first view of the gelatinous mass I seriously considered whether it could
have been a gland, and whether the pulsation might have been
communicated from muscular twitchings; I took my eye off the substance
for some time, and on again looking at it, felt more confident than ever, that
it was not a glandular substance. Its peculiar configuration and want of
solidity proved it indeed not to be gland; its motion, on touching it with the
point of the finger, was so much that of an embryonic animal, that I at once,
without further investigation, pronounced it a kangaroo.

"Might not the tube I discovered convey the animal to the posterior part of
the mammae, where it might become attached to the nipple in an inverted
state? At any rate it was not in the body of the uterus. Had the mass been
saved I should have taken one more look of inquiry without attempting to
alter its structure, and left the matter for the judicious decision of some of
the professors of comparative anatomy at home."

It may here be remarked that the birds met with on Houtman's Abrolhos,
with the exception of one, resembling in shape and colour a small quail,*
were known and common on the mainland. The aquatic species were also
familiar to us; but the habit of one kind, of a sooty-black colour, generally
called noddies, was quite new--that of building their nests, which are
constructed of seaweed and contain only one egg, in trees. There were not
many varieties of fish, the most abundant being snappers; of those that were
rare Lieutenant Emery made faithful sketches.

(*Footnote. Haemapodicus scintilans, Gould.)

Half a mile west from Slaughter Point we found two caverns similar to that
on East Wallaby Island, from which we got three tons of excellent water.

APPEARANCE OF THE REEFS.

The reefs surrounding this group appeared very much broken; and even at
Easter Group we had found them to be not so regular as at Pelsart's. This
suggests the idea, which appears to be borne out by all we saw, that the
reefs are compact in proportion to the exposed position of the islands; the
shelter afforded by Pelsart Group, in fact, did not require the reefs to be so
united round the other islands to the north.

From the highest part of East Wallaby Island we discovered a patch of land
bearing North-West 1/2 North eleven miles. The outer reef extended in that
direction from the south-west point of West Wallaby Island, though it could
only be traced by detached patches of breakers. To the south-east of its
commencement lies Evening Reef. The observations were made on the
north end of the north-east Pigeon Island, bearing West by South half a mile
from our anchorage, in latitude 32 degrees 27 minutes 21 seconds South
and longitude 2 degrees 1 minute 10 seconds West of Swan River, variation

4 degrees 10 minutes westerly. The temperature of Houtman's Abrolhos is
rendered equable by the fact that they lie at the limit of the land breezes;
during the month we were there the thermometer averaged 71 degrees.

Our protracted stay enabled us to get a tolerable series of tidal observations,
which present some singular results. The time of high-water at the full and
change was six o'clock when the tide rose 30 inches. It appeared that during
the night there was a short flood of six hours with a rise of seven inches,
and an ebb of two hours with a fall of only five inches; but that during the
day the flow and ebb were nearly equal, the former being eight hours and
twenty minutes, the latter eight hours and five minutes, and the rise and fall
in each being 25 and 26 inches respectively.

TIDAL OBSERVATIONS.

A difference was also noticed between the day and night tides at Rat Island,
where the time of high-water at the full and change of the moon was ten
o'clock, and the rise varied from 8 to 32 inches, from the result of twenty-
five observations; by which I found, moreover, that the tides ebbed five
hours and a half in the night, and six hours and a half during the day, and
the water fell 9 inches with the night, and 18 with the day ebb. The
difference between the length of the night and the day floods was an hour;
the duration of the former being six hours, whilst that of the latter was
seven; whilst the difference in the rise was 7 inches, the greatest general
height, which was during the night tides, being 20 inches.

We were detained in Recruit Harbour until May 21st, determining the
position of the number of small islands and detached reefs to the south-east
of Wallaby Islands; but at length, after completing the soundings on the
north-east and north side and ascertaining the extent of the reef to the north-
west, we proceeded to the isolated patch of land before mentioned as seen
from Flag Hill, and which, from its relative position to the remainder of
Houtman's Abrolhos, we called North Island.

An anchorage was found in 12 fathoms, three quarters of a mile from a bay
on the north-east side, and half a mile from the reef extending to the
northward. The island was about a mile across, and nearly circular. It was
surrounded by a range of hills, with a flat in the centre, covered with coarse

grass, where a great many quails were flushed, affording good sport, but not
a single wallaby.

RECORD HILL.

The highest hill on the south-west point, measuring 42 feet, received the
name of Record Hill, from our leaving a paper in a bottle, giving an account
of our cruise. A contiguous reef stretched out from the west side of the
island for the distance of a mile, beyond which was the open sea. This reef
extended two miles and a half to the North-North-West and four miles and a
half to the southward. Our observations were made on a sandhill 36 feet
high, immediately over the bay, which they placed in latitude 32 degrees 18
minutes 5 seconds South longitude 2 degrees 9 minutes West from Swan
River.

LEAVE HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS.

May 23.

From Record Hill we had perceived that the sea was quite clear to the north
and west beyond the reef, and being satisfied that we had reached the
extremity of Houtman's Abrolhos,* we weighed in the morning, and passed
about a mile and a half from the reef to the north of the island in 26
fathoms; and hauling up South-South-West, along the western side of the
reefs, gradually deepened the water to 42 fathoms over a rocky ground,
Record Hill bearing North 70 degrees East six miles and a half. We then had
no bottom with 50 and 60 fathoms until noon, when we had 122 fathoms,
sand and coral; Record Hill then bearing North 52 degrees East eleven
miles and a half, just barely visible from the poop. It is singular that we
should have had bottom at that distance from the group, whereas, when we
had not proceeded half so far from the southern portion we had no bottom
with 200 fathoms.

(*Footnote. Their extent in latitude therefore nearly corresponded with the
old chart; and the apparent confusion in the shape given them, no doubt
arose from their extremes only having been seen and then extended towards
each other.)

To ascertain if there were any more reefs to the westward, we now steered
West-South-West, sounding occasionally with 200 and 220 fathoms
unsuccessfully.

After running thirty-two miles without seeing any indication of further
dangers, of which, moreover, the long ocean swell rolling in convinced us,
we steered to the northward.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

It may be proper to conclude our account of Houtman's Abrolhos with a few
general remarks. They form three groups instead of one, as was formerly
supposed; Pelsart Group being separated from Easter Group by a channel,
the least width of which is four miles, whilst the middle passage between
the latter and the Northern Group is six miles wide. The Abrolhos extend in
a North-North-West direction forty-eight miles, diminishing in breadth
towards the north; the greatest width of Easter and Pelsart Groups being
twelve miles in a West-South-West direction. In Easter Group the outer
reefs are most distant from the islands, being there four miles from the
nearest, which is Rat Island. In the Northern Group the islands are more
detached than in the others, and North Island is separated from them by a
distance of ten miles.

We have already alluded to the regularity and sameness in the soundings in
these groups, and between them and the main, clearly showing that they are
not connected with each other, but rest on the outer extremity of a level or
bank, stretching out from the main, and having a slight southerly
inclination, the depth (29 fathoms) between the southern group and the
coast being greater by four fathoms than between the coast and the northern
group. On either side of the Abrolhos, at the same distance from land, the
depth is more than 100 fathoms. The general nature of the bottom, in the
quiet places between the reefs, is a fine grey sandy mud or marl, but in
more exposed situations this is not so compact, whilst broken shells are
more abundant. This bottom bears a striking resemblance to that within the
Great Barrier Reefs.

After leaving the Abrolhos, as I have narrated, our progress to the
northward was unusually slow, and between the parallels of 26 degrees 50

minutes South and 25 degrees 40 minutes South we again got into
soundings varying from 187 to 81 fathoms, fine grey sand. At the greatest
depth the ship was forty miles from the land, and twenty miles at the least,
which was off Dirk Hartog's Island, at the south point of Sharks Bay. In
passing round the north-west extremity of the continent we delayed, again
endeavouring to get sight of Ritchie's Reef; but, on this occasion, as on our
passage from the Victoria to Swan River, it was not seen, and as no bottom
was obtained with 200 and 240 fathoms in its assigned position on the
chart, it must either have a very different one or does not exist.

PROCEED TO THE COAST.

The part of the North-west coast that had not been seen by Captain King,
commencing a short distance to the east of Depuch Island, it was resolved
that our survey of that part should begin there, and on the 9th of June the
Beagle reached an anchorage off a sandy bay on the north-east side of that
island. As we drew near our progress was impeded by a fierce south-east
breeze during the forenoons, which we found to prevail during our stay,
being stronger at the full and change of the moon. Although coming directly
from the land they quite made us shiver, reducing the temperature on one
occasion to 59 degrees. These winds began about daylight at south,
gradually veering and drawing round to the eastward as the day advanced,
and subsiding again as rapidly after noon, leaving the evening and night
generally calm.

SEARCH FOR WATER.

A search was immediately made for the stream of fresh water reported to
have been found by the French, in Freycinet's voyage, on Depuch Island. As
our stock was now very much reduced, and as our stay on the coast
depended on the supply we could procure here, we were greatly concerned
to find that our examination was in vain. Everything appeared parched up;
wells were forthwith commenced, and we dug as many as eight, but at the
depth of twenty-one feet the water that poured into them was salt.
Fortunately Mr. Bynoe found a reservoir of water in the main valley leading
up from the north end of the sandy beach, and about a mile from the sea.
From this we got about six tons of tolerable water, although the labour of
carrying it on the men's shoulders in seven-gallon barecas was very great,

the only road lying through the valley, which, as may be inferred from the
rounded stones it is strewed with, sometimes conveys a torrent to the sea.
Large columnar blocks of the greenstone of which the island is composed,
present, as the sun falls on their iron rusty surface, an appearance as if the
sides of the valley were lined with red warriors. The section presented to
our view, by the deepest well we sank at the mouth of this valley, consisted
of a light kind of mould for six feet, then a layer of sand and shells of the
same depth, resting on a coarse soft kind of reddish sandstone.

FORESTIER GROUP.

Depuch is the centre of a string of islands which bears the name of Forestier
Group, fronting the coast at the distance of from one to three miles. It is
much larger than the others, being about eight miles in circumference, and
reaching an elevation of 514 feet; whereas the smaller islands, some of
which are thickly covered with brushwood and coarse grass, are none of
them above 50 feet high. They are of a formation totally different, being of
a very coarse gritty yellow sandstone, in many places quite honeycombed,
with some low sandhills superimposed.

DEPUCH ISLAND.

Although Depuch Island is one vast pile of reddish-coloured blocks,
scattered about in the greatest possible confusion, sometimes resembling
basaltic columns, its outline from seaward appears even. In the valleys, and
on some of the more level spots near the summit, there are occasionally
slight layers of soil, affording nourishment to a coarse grass, a few bushes,
and several stunted eucalypti; but on the whole the vegetation of the island
is extremely scanty. From the highest point we had a view over the main,
extending inland for a great distance. It appeared to be flat, with the
exception of some isolated rocky hills, of a formation similar to that of
Depuch, from 200 to 500 feet in height, and about six miles from the shore.
We could also see at a distance of twenty-eight miles a very remarkable
pyramidal hill, surmounted by a tower-like piece of rock, bearing from our
position South 30 degrees West. From the white appearance of many large
patches of the level country, we inferred that they were covered with a salt
efflorescence; and it is probable that a very great portion of it is
occasionally flooded, being cut up by a number of creeks, which must

overflow at spring tides, especially when they occur simultaneously with
the north-west winds that prevail on this coast during the monsoon.

This group of islands is so connected with the main by extensive sandbanks,
that at low-water it is possible to walk across to them; and of this facility
the natives no doubt avail themselves to procure turtle. It appears indeed to
be only on such occasions that they can visit Forestier Group, as we saw no
traces of rafts on this portion of the coast. Depuch Island would seem to be
their favourite resort; and we found several of their huts still standing. They
were constructed of boughs and twigs fixed in the ground, and joined
overhead in a circular shape. Over this was thrown a loose matting of
twisted grass.

NATIVE DRAWINGS.

The natives are doubtless attracted to the place partly by the reservoirs of
water they find among the rocks after rain, partly that they may enjoy the
pleasure of delineating the various objects that attract their attention, on the
smooth surface of the rocks. This they do by removing the hard red outer
coating, and baring to view the natural colour of the greenstone, according
to the outline they have traced. Much ability is displayed in many of these
representations, the subjects of which could be discovered at a glance. The
number of specimens was immense, so that the natives must have been in
the habit of amusing themselves in this innocent manner for a long period
of time. I could not help reflecting, as I examined with interest the various
objects represented*--the human figures, the animals, the birds, the
weapons, the domestic implements, the scenes of savage life--on the
curious frame of mind that could induce these uncultivated people to repair,
perhaps at stated seasons of the year, to this lonely picture gallery,
surrounded by the ocean-wave, to admire and add to the productions of
their forefathers. No doubt they expended on their works of art as much
patience and labour and enthusiasm as ever was exhibited by a Raphael or a
Michael Angelo in adorning the walls of St. Peter or the Vatican; and
perhaps the admiration and applause of their fellow countrymen imparted as
much pleasure to their minds as the patronage of popes and princes, and the
laudation of the civilized world, to the great masters of Italy. There is in the
human mind an irresistible tendency to indulge in a sort of minor creation--

to tread humbly in the footsteps of the Maker--to reproduce the images that
revolve within it, and to form, from its own ideas, a mimic representation of
the actual world. This is the source of all art and all poetry; of every thing,
in fact, which tends to adorn and refine our nature. It is this uncontrollable
desire to work on and fashion the rough materials that lie under our hands
that gives the first impulse to civilization, and impels us onward in the
progress of improvement. And wherever we discern the faintest indication
that such a principle is at work, there we may securely hope that
development will ultimately take place. Until we find a nation which has
never attempted to emerge from the circle of its mere animal wants--which
has never exhibited the least inclination to develop the most ordinary arts--
which not only rejects clothing, but is absolutely indifferent to ornament--
which leaves its weapons uncarved, its skin unpainted, free from tattoo, we
must not despair of the general efficacy of civilization. These savages of
Australia, as we call them, who have adorned the rocks of Depuch Island
with their drawings, have in one thing proved themselves superior to the
Egyptian and the Etruscan, whose works have elicited so much admiration
and afforded food to so many speculations--namely, there is not in them to
be observed the slightest trace of indecency.

(*Footnote. See the accompanying lithographic impression of the copies
made by Captain Wickham of the native drawings on Depuch Island.)

NATIVE DRAWINGS.

Lithographic impression of the copies made by Captain Wickham of
the native drawings on Depuch Island. They have already appeared in
the Royal Geographical Journal Volume 12. The following list will
convey to the reader what the drawings are intended to represent.

1. A goose or duck.
2. A bird; probably the leipoa.
6. A beetle.
11. A fish over a quarter-moon; which has been considered to have
some reference to fishing by moonlight.
61. A native dog.
16. A native, armed with spear and wommera, or throwing stick,
probably relating his adventures, which is usually done by song, and
accompanied with great action and flourishing of weapons, particularly
when boasting of his prowess.
20. A duck and a gull.
34. A corrobory, or native dance.
65. A crab.
30. A native in a hut, with portion of the matting with which they cover
their habitations.
67. A kangaroo.
71. Appears to be a bird of prey, having seized upon a kangaroo-rat.
32. Shark and pilot-fish.

During our stay we did not see any of the natives on the island; but on the
main several of them were observed, though they would not allow us to
communicate, moving off as soon as any attempt was made to get near them
in the boats. On one occasion, when Mr. Fitzmaurice, in a whaleboat, was
examining a part of the coast to the eastward of Depuch Island, he entered a
creek, which soon, however, became too confined by the mud-banks for
them to use the oars.

HOSTILITY OP THE NATIVES.

While in this position a shout attracted his attention, and he perceived a
party of natives, armed with spears approaching the boat, with evident
hostile designs. They of course naturally looked upon us as intruders; and as
the point was not worth contesting, the creek being of no importance, Mr.
Fitzmaurice thought it better to withdraw, rather than run the risk of a
collision that could have led to no beneficial results.

TOM'S TERROR OF THEM.

The native youth we had brought with us from Swan River did not at all
approve of these excursions. He was generally taken, with a view of giving
confidence to any of his wild countrymen who might be encountered; but
he exhibited the greatest possible repugnance to this service. His terror for
the northern men fully equalled that of Miago, from whom doubtless he had
received the most terrific accounts. It was only by giving him a gun that he
could be at all induced to go. He evidently felt himself more secure with
European arms than with his own rude ones; and appeared to have learnt
their superiority by experience, for he was a very fair shot. When I first
asked him why he did not prefer his spear, his simple reply was, "Can't look
out;" meaning that the northern men could not see the contents of a gun
coming, whereas if a spear were hurled at them they could avoid it. His
bravery was of much the same complexion as that of Miago; and he
threatened magnanimously to inflict the most condign punishment on the
fellows who opposed Mr. Fitzmaurice's landing. He had a strong impression
that these northern people were of gigantic stature; and in the midst of the
silent and gaping interest with which he listened to Mr. Fitzmaurice's
account of his adventure, the words big fella often escaped from his lips;
and he appeared quite satisfied when assured that his opinion was correct.

The agility this native exhibited in spearing fish was astonishing. In shallow
water he would actually course the fish till he got them within spearing
depth, when, although his prey darted past, he struck it with the most
surprising precision. The quiet, splashless manner in which he ran through
the water was really singular. When his spear required new pointing, the
sole of his foot was turned up and the spear's head pared down upon it with
a knife. When the latter was not to be procured the teeth were made use of;
and I may here remark that the constant use which some savages make of
their teeth may have much to do in producing the projecting jaw. It seems
almost evident to common sense that the constant employment of the teeth
must have a material effect in causing a change in the facial angle.

ANCHORAGE AT DEPUCH ISLAND.

We found the anchorage at Depuch Island to form a tolerable port, being
protected from the north-east by one of the group, distant about three miles,
from which a reef extends to the West-North-West, leaving the mouth of the

harbour exposed only between North-West by North and West-North-West.
Our observations placed the centre of the sandy beach on the north-east side
of the island in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 47 seconds South and
longitude 2 degrees 0 minutes 20 seconds West of Swan River, variation 2
degrees westerly; and the time of high-water, at the full and change, at half
past ten, when the tide rose 15 feet, but only 5 during neaps.

NEW BIRD AND KANGAROO.

Although Depuch Island had been visited before, there still remained
something quite new to reward the diligent search that was made after
objects of natural history: namely, a small kind of kangaroo, a land bird,
and a shell, a species of Helix. The bird was shot by Mr. Bynoe; it was a
finch,* and beautifully marked with stripes of crimson down the breast, on
a black ground with white spots; the throat, and a patch round the stump of
the tail, were crimson. It is remarkable that all the beauty and brilliancy of
colour in this bird is underneath, the back being of a common earthy brown.

(*Footnote. Named by Mr. Gould from this specimen, Emblema picta.)

The kangaroo I had myself the good fortune to knock over on the summit of
the island; it was the only one shot during many an excursion made over
that dreary heap of desolation, the metallic sound the rocks yielded to our
step giving ample warning of our approach to their quick ears. The colours
of this specimen, the prettiest we had seen, were a dark grey, with a large
angular patch of white down the side, extending from the top of the
shoulders nearly to the hips. Down the centre of the back, ran a streak of
black, which was also the colour of the extremity of its slightly bushy tail.
The face and belly were likewise darker than other parts of the body, and
the feet were black and well cushioned, giving it a firm hold of the rocks
over which it bounded with surprising agility, through it never ran very far,
always popping into the cavities caused by the loose manner in which the
blocks forming the island are thrown together.*

(*Footnote. Mr. Gould has figured an animal very like this I have described,
as Petrogale lateralis, or the Stripe-Sided Rock Wallaby, from a specimen he
some time afterwards got from Western Australia; but he has not noticed the
beautiful kangaroo of Depuch Island.)

The specimen of the species of Helix I have above mentioned was found by
Mr. Dring, one of our most successful collectors in that department. In the
Appendix are figured some of the new shells discovered during the voyage.

Leaving Depuch Island, we examined the coast to the eastward as far as the
Turtle Isles, a distance of eighty-five miles, the first twenty-seven of which
trended North 55 degrees East, and the remainder North 67 degrees East
curving slightly inwards. As the French had obtained a distant view of this
coast, it did not possess to us the interest of being a new portion of the
continent.

EFFECTS OF MIRAGE.

Still the effect of the treacherous mirage, which has often deluded the way-
worn thirsty traveller with the false appearance of water, raised many parts
of the interior that had not before met the eye of an European. These
presented a very level outline. The interior was, for a great distance, a vast
plain, so low that we could scarcely see it from the ship's masthead over the
sandhills, which did not exceed the height of 40 feet. Six or seven miles
from the Turtle Isles this extensive level was interrupted by the presence of
a group of hills, from 200 to 300 feet in elevation, apparently of the same
character as the heights behind Depuch Island. As seen through the medium
of mirage, they often had a most curious appearance: high continuous
ranges, changing again to lofty islands, danced in the tremulous air. I should
remark that when the land was subject to this distortion, it was always
during the forenoon, and on those days the winds were invariably light.

APPEARANCE OF THE COAST.

The shore, for nearly fifteen miles from Depuch Island is very low, lined
with mangroves, and intersected by creeks, which at high-water, when the
tide rises sometimes 18 feet, are of some magnitude, and inundate much of
the low land, leaving large portions of it whitened by a salt incrustation.
Beyond, as far as the Turtle Isles, the coast is fronted with a ridge of
sandhills, scantily covered with vegetation (the highest, as I have already
said, rarely exceeding an elevation of 40 feet) forming a barrier between the
sea and the low lands behind, which, from the masthead, appeared to be
thickly covered with small trees, and slightly raised from three to seven

miles from the coast. Several of the natives showed themselves at a
distance, and from the numerous fires, it appeared to be a well inhabited
part of the continent. Still we saw no appearance of a stream of fresh water;
and, though there were several creeks, the only opening of any consequence
was forty-three miles from Depuch Island. From its abounding with oysters
we named it Oyster Inlet. Across the mouth of it lies an islet, just within the
north-eastern end of which there was a sufficient depth for the Beagle. The
formation of the island was a reddish porous sandstone. At a native fire-
place I found a piece of quartz and a large pearl oyster-shell. The tide rose
here 15 feet near full moon.

THE GEOGRAPHE SHOALS.

The only outlying dangers on this extent of coast were the Geographe
Shoals, two rocky patches some distance from each other. The outer one
was thirteen miles from the main, and bore North 22 degrees East twenty-
three miles from Depuch Island.

TURTLE ISLANDS.

The shore fronting the north Turtle Island projects, leaving a space of only
ten miles between, of which, on account of the shoals, only a small portion
lying near the island is navigable. Nearly opposite the latter is another
opening, of some extent at high-water; but from the impediments that
offered to our examining it, we named it Breaker Inlet. During spring tides
it must carry a large body of water over the very low land it intersects.

The South Turtle Isle is a mere bank of sand and white coral; the northern is
about half a mile across, of the same formation precisely as the low isles of
Forestier Group. It is fronted on all sides with a coral reef extending off
from a mile to a mile and a half, which dries at low-water, leaving an abrupt
wall of from two to three feet at the outer edge, with pools between it and
the island, in which several luckless turtles, who had deferred leaving until
too late, were found. Though we only took what was required for our own
consumption, the number that could have been here obtained was
enormous.

In the course of four hours thirty green turtles were brought on board, one
of which, and not the largest, weighed 385 pounds. A small hawk's bill, the
first and only one seen, was also taken. On this part of the coast grows a
peculiar small kind of weed, on which they feed; it was first seen near
Depuch Island. I have been informed that the turtles at Ascension Island,
when fresh caught, have a large ball of a curious kind of weed in their
stomach, and that as soon as it is consumed, they become watery and lose
their flavour. Though many diligent inquiries have been made after this
weed, it appears to be still unknown.

A sandhill on the south-east end of the North Isle our observations placed in
latitude 19 degrees 53 minutes 48 seconds South, and longitude 3 degrees
09 minutes 10 seconds East of Swan River; variation 1 degree 0 minutes
westerly. The tide ran between the island and the shore nearly two knots an
hour; the flood stream came from the north-west; and the rise at springs was
18 feet, the time of high-water being 11 o'clock.

SEARCH FOR WATER.

A fruitless attempt was made to procure water on this island, by digging;
and as we were now reduced to a supply for only ten days, it became
necessary that we should immediately proceed to Timor in search of some.
This was much to be regretted at the present moment, as the coast to the
east had never been seen, and therefore possessed the charm of being a new
part of the continent. We consoled ourselves for not being able to visit it by
the reflection that it would hold out some inducement for us to return to this
land of sterility.

On Turtle Island was found a broken jar, probably left by some of the
Macassar people, who are occasionally blown in upon this part of the coast.

July 14.

The unusual fogs that had prevailed for three days dispersing, allowed us to
leave our anchorage under the south-east side of North Turtle Isle, and soon
after dark we occupied another near Bedout Island, having crossed some
rocky ledges of seven fathoms on the way. When the Beagle was midway
between these islands, they were both visible from the masthead. In the

night, and during the early part of next day, it blew strong from south-east,
causing a high-topping sea. Time being precious, we could not wait for a
quiet day to land on Bedout; its position was therefore determined by
observations with the sea horizon, and differs very materially from that
given by the French.

We weighed early in the afternoon of the 15th, and passed round the north-
west end of Bedout, where there is much uneven ground with ripplings. We
carried soundings until abreast of the north end of Rowley Shoals and
twenty-five miles from their inner side, in from 45 to 154 fathoms. These
shoals, like the Abrolhos, appear to stand on the outer edge of a bank
projecting off this portion of the coast, as we did not get bottom after
leaving their parallel.

On the 20th, in the afternoon, we passed, having no soundings with 200
fathoms, along the western side of Scott's Reef, at the distance of three
miles, and determined its position. It forms a large lagoon, with an opening,
not appearing to be a ship passage, midway on its western side; marked by a
dry bank just within it, in latitude 14 degrees 3 minutes 30 seconds South
and longitude 6 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds East of Swan River. The
eastern extreme of the reef was not seen; the southern limit is in latitude 14
degrees 15 minutes South; and the north-west extreme being in 13 degrees
55 minutes South, and longitude 6 degrees 2 minutes East of Swan River,
gives it an extent of twenty miles in a north and south direction.

SCOTT'S REEF.

Captain Owen Stanley, in March, 1840, discovered a shoal about sixteen
miles to the North-North-East of Scott's Reef; he considered its extent from
east to west to be about five miles; but from the masthead the south end of
it could not be seen. It did not appear to have more than two or three feet
water on it. The north point, Captain Stanley places in latitude 13 degrees
39 minutes South, longitude 121 degrees 56 minutes East; or 6 degrees 11
minutes East of Swan River.*

(*Footnote. This reef was seen by the Seringapatam merchant ship in 1842.)

We now began to feel a westerly current, which increased to a knot and a
half as we got near Rottee; the winds being moderate, between East and
East-South-East.

PULO DOUW.

July 23.

The weather was hazy: the high land of Rottee was seen in the forenoon, the
highest part of the island, a rather pointed hill, bearing North 60 degrees
East. At 1 P.M. we saw Pulo Douw, which we endeavoured to weather, but
the current prevented us. It is a remarkable island, with a gap in the centre
and a clump of trees, that looks like a sail when first seen, on the north-west
end, which terminates in a low sandy point. This is also the case with the
south-east extreme, off which a reef extends for about half a mile; indeed,
there appeared to be no ship passage between the sandy islets that lie to the
east of Pulo Douw and Rottee. We rounded the north-west end of the former
at the distance of a mile and a half, passing through some heavy ripplings,
apparently an eddy setting to the north-east round the island. Pulo Douw
appeared to be thickly inhabited, and was encircled by a reef, except at its
North-North-West point, where there is a cliffy projection. Angles were
taken for fixing the position of the islets between Pulo Douw and Rottee,
which we found to be wrongly placed. The Scotch Bonnet, a remarkable
rocky lump, seen over the south-west end of Rottee, and in line with the
south side of Pulo Douw, bore South 60 degrees East. During the night we
had a fresh wind from East-South-East and sailed through several ripplings,
our first entering suddenly upon which caused some anxiety, though the
lead gave no bottom with 60 and 70 fathoms. We passed some distance
from the western end of Samow Island in the morning; but the high peaks
of Timor were not seen till near noon. The eager eyes of the native whom
we had brought with us from Swan River were the first to descry them; and
he exclaimed in tones of rapturous astonishment, "Land! big fella! all the
same cloud!" I shall not easily forget the amazement of this savage,
accustomed as he was to behold the level plains of his native land, when he
saw, towering in alpine grandeur to the sky, the pinnacled heights of Timor.
He seemed scarcely able to conceive, even when assured by the evidence of

his own senses, that it was possible for mountains to be so high and ranges
so vast as those that now developed themselves before him.

REACH TIMOR.

In crossing the mouth of Coepang Bay towards Samow, in the evening, the
appearance was truly grand. A vast heap of vapour was slowly moving
across the mountains, disclosing at intervals their jagged summits towering
towards the sky, and occasionally allowing the eye to penetrate for a
moment into the depths of mysterious valleys that seemed to stretch for
unknown distances into the recesses of the great Timoree Range. Some wild
flying clouds that rapidly traversed the heavens imparted a curious
alternation of light and shadow to the lowlands that presented themselves to
our view--chequering the whole with gloomy patches and light spots, and
revealing or hiding in rapid succession the extensive woods and the patches
of cultivation that lay within the bosom of the Bay. The dazzling white sand
beaches, too, strongly marked by the dark blue sea, heightened the beauty
of the scene; which to us, who had for some months seen nothing but the
monotonous north-west coast of Australia, appeared truly enchanting.

During the first watch we beat up the bay, and at midnight anchored; the
barking of dogs, the crowing of cocks, and the tolling of bells assuring us
that we were once again in the vicinity of civilization. In the morning we
found ourselves off the town of Coepang, when we shifted our berth farther
in; the flagstaff of Fort Concordia bearing south a quarter of a mile.

SWAN RIVER NATIVE.

Our Swan River native came up to me after we had anchored, dressed in his
best, shoes polished, and buttoned up to the chin in an old uniform jacket.
"Look," said he, pointing to some Malay lads alongside in a canoe,
"trousers no got 'um." A toss of the head supplied what was wanting to the
completeness of this speech, and said as plainly as words could have done,
"poor wretches!" I tried in vain to point out their superiority, by saying,
"Malay boy, work, have house; Swan River boy, no work, bush walk." I
then drew his attention to the country, the delicious fruits and other good
things to eat (knowing that the surest road to an Australian's heart is through
his mouth) but all was in vain! my simple friend shook his head, saying,

"No good, stone, rock big fella, too much, can't walk." Home, after all, is
home all the world over, and the dull arid shores of Australia were more
beautiful in the eyes of this savage than the romantic scenery of Timor,
which excited in him wonder not delight. It was amusing to see how
frightened he was on going ashore the first time. With difficulty could he be
kept from treading on our heels, always, I suppose, being in the habit, in his
own country, of finding strangers to be enemies. He was instantly
recognised by the Malays, who had occasionally seen natives of Australia
returning with the Macassar proas from the north coast, as a marega,* much
to his annoyance.

(*Footnote. I have never been able to learn the meaning of this word. They
told us at Coepang it signified man-eater; which explains the native's
annoyance; and may serve as a clue to the discovery that the aborigines of
the northern part of the continent occasionally eat human bodies as they do
in the south.)

LAND AT COEPANG.

Being anxious to make the acquaintance of the Resident, who bore the
reputation of being a most intelligent person, a party of us paid him a visit
the second day after our arrival. The narrow streets, lined with Chinese
shops and pedlars of every description, from the long-tailed Chinaman to
the thick, crisp-haired, athletic Timoree, were soon passed. We then entered
a rich green valley, with some fine houses on the left: the sight was strange
and new to us in every way. What we most enjoyed was the vegetation--a
feast for our eyes, after the dull arid shores of North-western Australia: and
we gazed with intense pleasure on the rich green spreading leaf of the
banana and other tropical fruit-trees, above which towered, the graceful
coconut. Is it possible, thought I, that Timor and Australia, so different in
the character of their scenery, can be such near neighbours, that these
luxuriant valleys, nestling among the roots of these gigantic hills, are only
separated by a narrow expanse of sea from those shores over which nature
has strewed, with so niggard a hand, a soil capable of bearing the
productions characteristic of the latitudes within which they lie?

COEPANG FROM THE ANCHORAGE.
G. Gore, del.
London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.

A meagre-looking apology for a soldier, leaning against a tree, suggested to
us that we must be near the Resident's dwelling: we were so. It soon
appeared that it was the last of the large houses before mentioned, and that
the soldier was the sentinel.

VISIT THE RESIDENT.

We were speedily ushered into the presence of D.T. Vanden Dungen
Gronovius. What sort of person, reader, do you picture to yourself with such
a name? Great of course; and in truth such was he, not only in height and
bulk, but as he soon informed us, in deeds likewise; he talked fast, and
smoked faster, and possessed a general knowledge of all the recent
discoveries. We learned from him that the Zelee and Astrolabe were laid on
their beam ends for twenty-four hours in the hurricane of last November,
when the Pelorus was lost at Port Essington. After listening to some strange
and amusing stories about Borneo, where the Resident had been

Superintendent for twelve years, we took our leave. I was glad to find that
Mr. Gronovius entertained views more liberal than Dutchmen generally do.
He had, as he told me, written to the Governor-General at Batavia,
requesting that Coepang might be made a free port, and emigration allowed.
He most kindly offered us horses and guides for riding or shooting.

FORT CONCORDIA.

The observations for latitude, longitude, etc. were made in Fort Concordia,*
near the flagstaff. I was surprised to find this fort so much out of repair; the
only guns fit to be fired out of were two brass six-pounders, the carriages
indeed of which were not trustworthy. On these guns I noticed the same
mark as on that we found at Houtman's Abrolhos, namely, two sides of a
triangle bisecting two small circles. I never see an old fort without thinking
of the anecdote of a party from the Beagle visiting one at Valdivia on the
west coast of South America. The guns were very much out of repair, and
when the remark was made to the old Spaniard who showed the fort, that
they would not bear to be fired out of ONCE, with a shrug of his shoulders
he replied that he thought they would bear it TWICE! But to return to Fort
Concordia: it stands on a madreporic rocky eminence, about 60 feet in
elevation, commanding the straggling town of Coepang, which, certainly,
from the anchorage** does not impress the stranger with a favourable
opinion of the industry of its inhabitants, though it improves in proportion
as you retreat from the beach. The foot of the height on which the fort
stands is washed by a small rapid stream that skirts the south side of the
town. Its course from the eastward is marked by a deep gorge, on the sides
of which a stranger might feast his eyes on the riches of tropical scenery.
Here and there above the mass of humbler vegetation, a lofty tapering
coconut tree would rear its graceful form, bowing gently in the passing
breeze. On every hill was presented the contrast of redundant natural
verdure, clothing its sides and summit, and of cultivated fields along the
lower slopes. These by irrigation are turned into paddy plantations, the
winds blowing over which give rise to those insidious fevers, intermittent, I
am told, in their character, which are so prevalent at Coepang, as well as
dysentery, from which indeed the crew of the Beagle afterwards suffered.

(*Footnote. Latitude 10 degrees 10 minutes 11 seconds South, and
longitude 9 degrees 50 minutes 00 seconds West of Swan River.)

(**Footnote. See the view annexed.)

DUTCH MILITARY FORCE.

The whole force the Dutch have at Coepang is sixty soldiers, half of whom,
too, are Javanese. Yet the subjection in which this small force keeps the
natives, is beyond belief. A sergeant is the commandant at Rottee, and such
power has he over the inhabitants, that he can at any time raise a thousand
armed men in the course of a few hours. Many of the largest ponies used at
Coepang, are brought from Rottee. Their origin no one could give me any
information about; all agree in saying they were found with the island, and
the natives have no traditions.

THE RESIDENT'S TALES.

My second visit to the Resident was for the purpose of accepting his offer
of a guide, and of making arrangements for a day's shooting. I found him as
usual, sitting smoking in a large cool room. We were soon in the interior of
Borneo, the scene of his former exploits. Some of these were of so
sanguinary a character, that they do him very little credit; and many of his
tales partook of the marvellous. Among the Dyaks, natives of the interior, it
is a custom, he said, that when a man wishes to marry, he must produce a
certain number of human heads. He related that he had once seen a very
handsome young woman, to whom a number of heads had been delivered,
swimming about in some water, and playing with them. At another time he
averred that he saw a woman mix human brains with water and drink it! Mr.
Gronovius also informed me that the land on the western sides both of
Timor and Borneo was gaining on the sea, particularly at the latter place;
and a report prevailed that on some of the elevated parts of the former
chama shells had been found. In answer to my inquiries about earthquakes,
I was told that, only the last month the island of Ternate in 0 degrees 50
minutes North had been visited by one, which had thrown down all the
houses, and that in 1690, the town of Coepang had also been destroyed.
From the Resident also, I received accounts of three ports in Rottee, one on

the north-west side, another on the south-east, and a third, on the north-east,
opening into Rottee Strait.

THE TIMOREES.

Among the fresh information gained from Mr. Gronovius during this visit,
was an account of the natives of Timor called Timorees. They are very
superstitious, and when a person of consequence dies, a number of
karabows (buffaloes) pigs, and ponies are killed and placed over his grave,
as an offering to the evil spirit. Some, in case of sickness, imagine, that by
eating a whole buffalo, even the horns and hoofs, by degrees, they can
appease the anger of the demon to whom they attribute all their misfortunes.

Many of the Timorees have really handsome features, strikingly different
from the Malays. Their hair, which is neither woolly nor straight, but crisp,
and full of small waves, is worn long behind, and kept together by a
curiously formed comb. There is altogether a degree of wildness in their
appearance that ill accords with their situation; for nearly all the Timorees
in Coepang are slaves sold by the Rajahs of the different districts, the value
of a young man being fifty pounds.

A powerful Rajah, commonly called the Emperor of Timor, visited Coepang
during our stay there. Unfortunately we all missed seeing him. He was
attended by a large and well-armed guard, and appeared to be on very good
terms with the merchants of the place, who made him several presents, no
doubt through interested motives; probably he supplies them with slaves.
His character is notoriously bad; it was only the other day that he had one of
his wives cut to pieces, for some very trifling offence.

A SHOOTING EXCURSION.

On taking my leave of the Resident, I fixed the day for our shooting
excursion. We were to go to a place called Pritie, on the northern shore of
Babao Bay, and distant some fifteen miles from the ship, which rendered it
necessary therefore to make an early start.

Daylight on Monday morning accordingly found us on the northern shore of
the bay, but we soon ascertained that our guide knew very little about the

matter; and what was still worse, there was no getting near the shore, a bank
of soft mud fronting it for some distance, at this time of tide, and
particularly in the vague direction our guide gave us of Pritie. The day was
fast advancing; so we made our way back to a cliffy projection we had
passed before light, where, after some difficulty, we got on shore. Whilst
the breakfast was cooking, I made a sketch of the bay, and took a round of
angles, all the charts and plans I had seen being very erroneous.

Our guide appeared to take our not going to Pritie greatly to heart; but we
made the best of our way to some clear spots on the side of the high land
seen from the boat. We met a few natives, who all agreed there were plenty
of deer close by, which we believed, for we saw numbers of very recent
tracks. But the jungle was impenetrable; so, after rambling for an hour or
two, at the expense of nearly tearing the clothes off our backs, and
emulating the folly of the wise man of Thessaly, we again determined to
make for Pritie, or at least to try and find it. The tide too now served, and
after a pull of some hours, carefully examining every creek and bight, we
spied at length two canoes hauled up among a patch of mangroves.
Landing, we soon found some houses, and a person to show us the road to
Pritie; for we had still a walk of three miles across a well watered flat piece
of country. We were highly pleased with this, to us, novel sight; and our
enjoyment was heightened by beholding the tricks and grimaces of some
impudent monkeys perched on the tops of the lofty trees, out of shot range,
and too nimble to be hit with a ball.

VALE OF PRITIE.

We at last reached our destination, on the eastern side of a beautiful stream.
Immediately to the northward some lofty peaks reared their rugged summits
in an amphitheatre round the rich and picturesque vale of Pritie, which lay
at the feet of their varied slopes, one mass of tropical vegetation. Trees of
enormous height shot up by the waterside, and between them, as we
approached, the little sharp-roofed houses of the village of Pritie could be
seen scattered here and there amidst their gardens.

Our old guide, who had by this time recovered his serenity of mind, led us
direct to the Commandant, a mild and very civil old Javanese, to whom
orders had been sent by the Resident at Coepang to show us every attention.

His room was adorned by a magnificent pair of antlers which, we were
rejoiced to hear, had been lately taken from a deer shot within a hundred
yards of the house. After a repast of young coconuts, and gula, a kind of
honey; it was arranged that a party should be collected to go with us on the
morrow to shoot deer and pigs.

Our host now took us to see the village, and then conducted us to the house
we were to occupy during our sojourn at Pritie, which was a large homely-
built edifice erected for the Resident's use when he visits this
neighbourhood. We spent the dusk of the evening in pigeon-shooting, but
did not meet with much success; for the birds perched for the most part on
the summits of trees so lofty that they were quite out of shot-range. Many of
these giants of the forest must have attained the height of at least two
hundred feet. They formed a grand element in the landscape, especially
when their huge trunks rose by the side of the limpid water of the stream
that intersects the vale of Pritie. Between their topmost boughs, to the north,
the amphitheatre of hills which I have mentioned lifted up their indistinct
forms, round which the shades of night were gathering, towards the
heavens, that soon began to glisten with a multitude of faint stars.

EVENING REPAST.

By the time we got within doors, after our unsuccessful stroll, we were
quite tired, and well prepared to enjoy our dinner. The dignified air assumed
by our guide, evidently for the purpose of showing off, and the ostentatious
liberality with which he proffered the goodly viands sent by the
commandant, amused us highly. An account of our fare may be acceptable
to the gastronomic reader, who will thus be enabled to determine whether
he should envy or pity the voyager to the distant shores of Timor. First came
tea and coffee; then, in the course of an hour, followed fowls, cooked in all
sorts of ways, with a proportion of rice. The good things were brought in by
a train of domestics some fifty yards long, headed by a paunchy, elderly
man, who greatly reminded us of Caleb Balderston. If there was a word said
by any of the lookers-on--for many came to have a gaze at the lions--he was
out in a moment, and brought the offender to account. In short, by his
officious attention he afforded us much amusement, and greatly contributed

to our proper enjoyment of the dinner. Our candles were original ones--a
few threads of cotton drawn through a roll of bees' wax.

Dinner being over, we retired to pass as cold a night as we had felt for some
time, having only a few coarse mats to cover us; so that long before
daylight we were obliged to get up and walk about for the purpose of
warming ourselves. The first of the morning we spent again pigeon-
shooting; the birds were large and wild, yet we managed to get a few.

THE HILLS IN A MIST.

This excursion gave us an opportunity of beholding the mountains of Timor
under a remarkable aspect. From various openings in the woody plain we
could perceive their sides, clothed in grey mist, above which sometimes we
caught a glimpse of a pinnacle rising through the clear air, and just touched
by the rays of the morning sun. Here and there the slopes of the hills were
dimly seen through the vapour, which in other places, however, rolled along
in thick masses, completely hiding the uplands from view. Nearly every
gorge and valley was filled with heavy volumes of fog, whilst in some, a
slight steam only rising, allowed the trees to be faintly discovered. There is
nothing more grand than the aspect of lofty peaks and crags and precipices
imperfectly revealed through a morning mist. It seems as though the
darkness of night, unwilling to depart, lingers still fondly around them.
Their hollows and recesses are still wrapt in gloom, when all else around is
beaming with light. Within the tropics the contrast thus afforded has a
startling effect; but the influence of the sun is not long to be resisted; the
mist soon begins to disperse; valley after valley opens its depths to the
view; the outline of each rocky peak becomes more and more defined
against the deep blue sky, and presently the whole scene appears before you
clear and bright, with every line sharply drawn, every patch of colour
properly discriminated, a splendid panorama of towering hills and waving
forests.

Whilst I was gazing at this picture, the report of a fowling piece behind me
drew my attention, and on turning I was surprised to see the old
commandant out shooting likewise, and with him no less a person than
Caleb Balderston, as we had christened his faithful domestic. In their
company we returned to Pritie.

MUSTER OF THE PARTY.

Soon after breakfast our party began to muster, each man armed with a
long-condemned Tower musket. On one of them I was surprised to
recognize the name of a marine who had belonged to the Beagle in 1827.
The powder they used was of the coarsest kind, carried in small pieces of
bamboo, each containing a charge, and fitted in a case of skin, something
like our cartouch boxes. As a substitute for balls they used BOLTS OF
STONE, from two to three inches long. Besides a musket, each had a huge
knife or chopper, stuck in his belt. I was much struck with the simple
contrivance they had for shoes: a piece of the fan palm plaited together and
tied under the foot. The number of uses to which this tree is applied is
astonishing--for making water-buckets, for thatching houses, filling up the
panel-work of doors, and a variety of others I could mention.

It was late before we could muster all our force; but we at length got away,
commandant and all. I was much pleased with the respect everyone paid
him, especially as he was one of those mild kind persons who require very
little. Soon after leaving the village we halted in a shady spot, near a stream
of water, some of our party being still missing. This gave me a good
opportunity of comparing the features of the Malay and Timoree, for some
of both were in attendance. The Malay has a much more open countenance
than the Timoree, but is not so handsome, the latter having a more aquiline
nose.

THE SHOOTING ARRANGEMENTS.

When they all arrived I counted fifty armed men. There were some whose
grey hairs proclaimed their lengthened years; though there was a keenness
in their eyes that revealed that the principle of vitality was strong within
them yet; in others all the dash and vigour of youth was perceptible; many
had a truly wild appearance, with their long bushy hair and ever restless
eye. It was a picturesque sight to behold fifty such fine fellows scattered
about in small groups in the deep shade of these solitudes.

All the necessary arrangements being made, we once more started. An
hour's walk brought us to a rather large plain, where I and my companions
were stationed, about a hundred yards asunder, whilst the rest of the party

formed a circle, driving all the game in our direction. Unfortunately those
on the left commenced hallooing before those on the right, in which latter
direction the only three deer in the circle ran from the noise, instead of
towards us. Two of them were shot, and by the stone bolts above
mentioned. We now went to fresh ground, when, provoking to say, the same
thing happened again, not without our suspicions being raised that this was
purposely contrived; so that after all we were obliged to leave without a
single shot. Each deer, the largest of which, a doe, must have weighed a
hundred pounds, was shot STANDING, for the natives have a peculiar cry,
which arrests the animal's progress for a moment, while they fire.

THE JAVANESE COMMANDANT.

The deer were all brought up to the commandant, who begged our
acceptance of them. We thanked him, and took the two smallest. By the
time we reached Pritie they were skinned and hung up, ready to be put into
the boats. The persons who had shot them had received their stone bolts
again very little injured; the hole they make is enormous. We rewarded
these people; but to the commandant we were really at a loss how to
express our obligations. At length we thought of giving him some powder
and shot, which was a present he seemed right glad to receive. I afterwards
learnt the history of this excellent old Javanese, and was surprised and
grieved to hear that a person so universally esteemed had been banished
from Java and his family for some trifling political offence. His property
was sold to purchase his freedom, and the proceeds were entrusted to the
captain of a ship, who ran off with the whole, thus at once ruining a most
worthy family, and reducing my good friend the commandant to the
necessity of remaining in exile. I was glad to hear, on my second visit to
Timor, that he was still alive and well, though without any prospect of an
alleviation to his condition.

Wishing him farewell, we left Pritie with some regret. By dark we had
crossed Babao Bay, and reached the ship at half-past eight. It may be as
well to mention that, looking from Coepang, the valley of Pritie is situated
immediately under Timor Peak, the highest over the northern shore of
Babao Bay. A small hut, on a projecting shingle point, close to the
westward, marks the landing place, where several canoes are generally to be

seen hauled up. At high tide a boat can get in; but, as we have already said,
there is a long mud flat at low-water.

THE TIMOREES.

The Timorees do not bear the character of being very industrious; the small
portion of land they cultivate is turned up in the following manner: a slight
fence is placed round the part required for the purposes of agriculture and a
drove of bullocks is driven furiously backwards and forwards over it; which
very much resembles the mode adopted for thrashing corn in some parts of
South America.

The Rajahs of the western portion of Timor receive their appointment from
the Resident at Coepang; and their installation I am told is rather a grand
affair. Nearly all the Timorees speak Malay, a soft pleasant-sounding
tongue, apparently easy to be acquired; but there were few of the Coepang
people that spoke the native language. Some of the Timor customs are
singular: if a woman, for example, dies in childbirth, she is buried on the
spot where she breathes her last.

DUTCH SETTLEMENT IN NEW GUINEA.

During our stay at Coepang I met the doctor of the Dutch settlement at
Triton Bay, on the west coast of New Guinea. He gave me a very poor
account of the inhabitants. The Dutch settlers, he says, can scarcely venture
out of the fort; as the natives have bows and arrows, as well as muskets,
with which they are excellent marksmen. Their firearms they obtain in
exchange for birds of paradise, tortoise-shell and birds-nests, from vessels
from the Arru, and other islands in the Eastern Archipelago. When a vessel
arrives on the coast they flock down from the interior to trade, which cannot
be done without an interpreter. It is even then attended with great risk,
owing to the extreme treachery of the natives. Knives, stained blue, and
cotton goods are in great request; but, although they of aware of the
superiority of Europeans, they will not on any account allow them to live in
their country. The inhabitants, however, are better disposed on the shores of
Great Bay, a deep indentation on the north-east side of the island, where
great quantities of nutmeg grow.

On the 5th the Mangles arrived from Sydney by the outer route through
Torres Strait, having lost all her anchors, and been nearly wrecked in a
south-east gale near Halfway Island. She was commanded by the same
master, Mr. Carr, to whom I have before alluded as having given the first
information concerning the survivors of the crew of the Charles Eaton.

ISLAND OF ROTTEE.

The next afternoon we weighed, and the following morning anchored, the
water being deep, close in near Tykale Inlet, on the south-west side of
Rottee, for observations,* and for the purpose of better determining the
position of Pulo Douw, and the other islands in its neighbourhood.

(*Footnote. They placed the south point of the inlet in latitude 10 degrees
46 minutes 18 seconds South and longitude 0 degrees 43 minutes 50
seconds West of Coepang.)

An extensive coral flat fronts this part of Rottee, connecting it with the
small islands lying off it.

We got from the natives some shells of a kind of small green mussel of a
very peculiar shape. The old men from whom I got them was making a
meal from some rare shell-fish. He did not understand the value of money;
and, strange to say, not a word of the Malay language. The same was the
case with all his companions. At the part of Samow I visited the people all
understood it, which is very remarkable, as only a narrow strait separates
the islands. In this state of ignorance they may perhaps be purposely kept.

I here recognised several Australian shrubs and palms. The rock of which
this port of Rottee is formed appeared of a madreporic nature, scattered
about in huge blocks. At a little distance from the water it formed low
broken cliffs from twenty to thirty feet in length; these were everywhere
undermined by the sea, from which the land here was evidently emerging. I
noticed several deserted huts and broken walls or fences, which bore the
appearance of having had much labour bestowed on them at some time or
other. They added much to the lonely appearance of the place, for there is
nothing that imparts so great an air of desolation to a scene as the signs that
it has once been inhabited by man. Tracts which have never before been

trodden by human foot may be gazed on with pleasurable emotions; but
there are always melancholy associations connected with a spot which our
fellow-creatures have once inhabited and abandoned.

The natives we saw belonged to the southern side of Tykale Inlet. They
were occupied in looking after some weirs, from the size and number of
which it would appear that they chiefly live on fish.

JEWELLERS OF PULO DOUW.

The inhabitants of Pulo Douw are a small wandering tribe from Savu,
chiefly jewellers, as the Resident at Coepang informed me. It is a strange
place for them to take up their abode in; perhaps they do not like the idea of
living under a Rajah. They are, I believe, beautiful workmen; but with them
all is not gold that glitters. There are plenty of coconuts in the island, but
little water; the landing at all times is bad.

When at Coepang we saw some specimens of the gold, collected after
heavy rains from the washings of the hills, and brought down for barter to
the merchants in grains enclosed in small lengths of bamboo, containing
each from six to eighteen drams. Thirty miles south-west of Diely, also, are
some mines of virgin copper.

CHAPTER 2.6.

Sail from Rottee.
Search for shoal.
Dampier's Archipelago.
Examination of coast.
Strange weather.
Natives.
Passage between Delambre and Huiy Islands.
Proceed to Montebello Isles.
Description of them.
Barrow's Island.
Tryal Rocks.
New kangaroo.

Abundance of turtle.
New wallaby.
Sail for Swan River.
Find Ritchie's Reef.
Islands between Barrow's and North-West Cape.
Table of soundings.
Swan River Native.
Anchor under Rottnest.
Vocabulary.
Erect beacons.
Bad weather.
Habits of a native dog.
Geological observations.
Sail from Swan River.
Error in position of Cape Naturaliste.
King George's Sound.
Appearance of Bald Head.
Princess Royal Harbour.
Origin of settlement.
Town of Albany.
Salubrity of climate.
Excursion into interior.
Course a kangaroo.
Pitfalls.
Herds of kangaroos.
Rich country.
The Hay River.
Return to Albany.
Departure for South Australia.
Discover an Island.
Death of a seaman.
Position of Neptune Isles.
Kangaroo, Althorp and Quoin Islands.
Holdfast Road.
Adelaide.
Description of country.
Governor Gawler's policy.

Visit the Port.
Mr. Eyre's expedition.
Hardships of Overlanders.
Cannibalism.
Meet Captain Sturt.
Native schools.
System of education.
Sail for Sydney.
Squalls.
Error in coast.
Bass Strait.
Arrive at Sydney.

Leaving Rottee we passed, soon after dark, round the western end of Pulo
Douw, and stood for the position of a shoal reported by Mr. Lewis of the
Colonial schooner, Isabella, to be in latitude 14 degrees 43 minutes South,
and longitude 119 degrees 20 minutes East. Our inducement to search for
this shoal was the fact of its being supposed to lie in the direct route of
vessels sailing between Timor and the West coast of Australia. But after
searching from the 9th to the 14th, and sounding repeatedly without getting
bottom, we came to the conclusion that it did not exist. Breakers could have
been seen at least ten miles from the Beagle's masthead, as there was a
considerable swell from the south-west.

LIGHT WINDS.

On the 15th we were in latitude 16 degrees 05 minutes South and longitude
118 degrees 16 minutes East. After one of those stagnant calms so
frequently met with near the equator, we got a light westerly breeze on the
morning of the 18th. Towards midnight it freshened, veering from South-
West by South to West-South-West with some rather sharp rain squalls. It
appears that the westerly winds had already set in, and that the calm we
experienced on the 17th was an unoccupied space between the easterly and
westerly winds. There are few parts of the globe where light winds prevail
so much as on the North-west coast of New Holland, particularly between
the latitudes of 13 and 17 degrees, and from one to two hundred miles from
the land. They are, however, excepting in the months of January, February,

and March, from the eastward, south-east in the morning and east in the
afternoon. These winds prevented us from making the coast on the eastward
of Depuch Island; and as we had failed in getting a supply of provisions at
Timor, we were compelled to relinquish the plan of continuing the
examination of that part of the coast between the Turtle Islands and
Roebuck Bay.

BEZOUT ISLAND.

The Beagle was consequently anchored under Bezout Island, one of the
eastern isles of Dampier's Archipelago, and boats were sent to examine the
coast on the southward of Cape Lambert.

It may, perhaps, be worthy of remark, that should a vessel be brought by
any chance to this dreary part of the world in May, June, or July, anchorages
exposed to easterly winds should be left at or before daylight--that being the
time they set in; by noon all is again quiet. Bezout Island is of the same
formation as Depuch; and so are many of the broken ridges, with bare stony
summits, of a dark brown hue, on the main near Cape Lambert, trending
South-South-West. A more dreary sterile country can scarcely be seen; yet it
still maintains inhabitants.

August 26.

The weather has been truly strange for the last four days. The winds, instead
of being easterly have been from South-west to North-west, light with the
former during the mornings, and moderate with the latter in the evenings.
On this day they were from all quarters, with distant thunder in the north-
west, and several rain squalls. In the night it settled at east, a fresh breeze
bringing with it fine weather. In connection with our former remarks on
striking vicissitudes in the weather occurring near the change of the moon,
we should mention that it was new moon the day following.

The material for the chart collected in this part consists of the main from
below Picard Island to nearly twenty miles west of Cape Lambert, with the
neighbouring islands, an extent of nearly forty-five miles. The part near
Picard Island was carefully examined by Mr. Forsyth. He reported the main
to the South-South-West of that island, forming the head of the bay between

Cape Lambert and Depuch, to be extensive flats of mud and sand, over
which the sea sometimes passed. Between Picard and Cape Lambert the
shore is cut up by mangrove creeks. On a hill up one of these, several small
kangaroos were seen. Near the Cape Mr. Forsyth perceived twenty-seven
natives, seven of whom were children, in one party.

DELAMBRE ISLAND.

On the 27th we crossed over to Delambre Island, on which a large party
landed in the afternoon. A few turtle were here taken, of a different kind
from any we had seen before, and apparently a cross between the Hawk's
Bill and the Green Turtle; several nests were also found, in one of which
were 138 eggs. This island terminates, like Bezout Island, to the northward,
in cliffs about 90 feet high, with deep water close to; on the east and west
sides it is fronted by a reef nearly a mile in extent; but we could see no
traces of those lying three miles to the North-North-West of the North-West
point, laid down by Captain King. The passage between Huiy Island and
Delambre is five miles wide, though clear for two miles only, and in
working out we found that it had a very uneven bottom, over which a two-
knot tide causes heavy ripplings. We noticed that a hill, lying nine miles to
the south-west of Bezout Island, called in the chart Round-backed Hill,
bearing between South 5 degrees East, and South 15 degrees East, clears
the reefs on either side the channel; and that the same hill bearing South 24
degrees West leads between Bezout and Delambre, and South 8 degrees
West clears the reef off the eastern side of the latter.

THE MONTEBELLO GROUP.

From Delambre we proceeded to the Montebello Islands, principally in
order to set at rest two points of great interest, namely, the position of
Ritchie's Reef, and of the long lost Tryal Rocks. On the 31st, in the
afternoon, we anchored in 6 fathoms on the eastern side of Tremouille
Island, a cliffy islet off the south-east end of which bore South 42 degrees
East two miles. The tide was ebbing and setting to the North-North-East
two knots an hour. We found the Montebello Group to be confined by a
coral reef encircling it. The two principal islands are Tremouille and
Hermite Islands. The fact that these and their neighbours are not separated
in the charts fully evinced the necessity of our visit. Leaving a boat to

examine them, the ship proceeded towards the northern end of Barrow's
Island, being anxious to avoid the southerly winds to which the anchorage
off Tremouille is exposed. These usually commenced at midnight, blowing
from south-west, freshening and veering to south by 8 A.M., and by about
10 moderating at South-South-East. On our way to Barrow's Island they
were so violent as to cause the ship to drive with two anchors ahead, there
appearing to be no holding ground, but simply a coating of sand over a
rocky ledge. During the prevalence of these winds the temperature varied
from 66 to 76 degrees.

Near Barrow's Island, on our passage, I shot (from the quarter-boat) the
largest sea-snake ever killed. It is figured and described in the Appendix, by
Mr. J.E. Gray, as Hydrus major, and measured eight feet one inch in length,
by three inches broad; the colour was a dark yellow: several smaller ones
striped brown and white were also seen.

BARROW'S ISLAND.

We found that from the Montebello Group a long series of reefs and small
islands, the largest and most central of which is called Lowendal, extends
towards Barrow's Island, leaving a winding channel* along the north side of
the latter. Near the centre of the western side of the reef is a cluster which
proved to be the long-lost Tryal Rocks; the middle and largest of which is in
latitude 20 degrees 35 minutes South and longitude 0 degrees 17 minutes
West of Swan River.** The reef continues along the eastern side of
Barrow's Island, extending off three miles; our anchorage was consequently
little more than that distance from the shore. We examined the northern and
eastern sides; the former is composed of red sandstone cliffy projections,
separated by sandy bays, fronted for nearly two miles by a coral reef, partly
dry at low-water; but the south part of the eastern side becomes very low;
and where the cliffs end there is a remarkable valley trending westwards.
There were recent marks of the sea many feet above the ordinary reach of
the tides, bespeaking occasional strong south-east winds. A number of
stony-topped hills, from 150 to 200 feet in height, were scattered over the
northern parts of the island. In the valleys was a little sandy soil, nourishing
the spinifex, and a stunted kind of wood sufficiently large for fuel.

(*Footnote. Lowendal Island, bearing east, leads into it.)

(**Footnote. We recognised them from a sketch furnished by the Admiralty,
and made in 1719 by a Dutch sloop sent in search of them from Batavia.
They placed them eight degrees west from the coast of New Holland. If we
take leagues instead of degrees it would bring them near their actual
distance from the shore. Van Keulen says they were seen in the ship
Vaderland Getrouw, and found to be in 20 degrees 30 seconds south. In
1777 they were seen by Captain Joss, of the Danish ship Frederisberg
Castel, who places them in 20 degrees 40 minutes South. It was by his
description that I recognised them beyond a doubt, although his longitude
would place them thirteen degrees more to the westward, and near the
position they have occupied for years in the charts. The centre of them bears
North by East five miles and a quarter from Cape Dupuis, the north-west
point of Barrow's Island.)

NEW KANGAROO.

We found a new kind of kangaroo and wallaby on Barrow's Island; but the
only specimen obtained of the former was destroyed through the neglect of
the person in whose charge it was left. It was a buck, weighing fifty pounds,
of a cinnamon colour on the back and a dirty white on the belly; the hair
was fine and long; the head of a peculiar shape, resembling a dog's, with a
very blunt nose; the forearms were very short; the hind feet cushioned like
those inhabiting rocky ground. The does appeared to be much lighter; but
all were very wary and scarce. From the number of red sandhills, too,
scattered over the island, they were difficult to be seen at a distance. From
our description of this specimen it has been named Osphranter isabellinus.
With the wallaby we were more fortunate, Mr. Bynoe and myself
succeeding in knocking over four, weighing from five to eight pounds; they
also had blunt noses, and were of a light brown colour, quite different from
those on the Abrolhos.

Two iguanas, measuring seven feet in length, and nearly black, striped
slightly with white, were also killed here.

We did not find any surface water; everything wore a dry parched
appearance. No traces of natives were discovered, except some charred
pieces of wood. Indeed I may remark that we saw signs of fire on every part
of the continent we visited. From the south extremity of the island a long

reef trended in the direction of the mainland, where Captain King traced it
extending off some distance, thus connecting with the shore the whole of
these islands, which seem to lie in a line with each other, like the various
parts of a submerged piece of land. The small isles, especially between the
Montebello Group and Barrow's Island, have all the same direction; so that
it seems fair to conclude that they were once a part of the main, being in
fact fragments of a promontory, forming a gulf similar to Exmouth Gulf,
lying on the south-west of it. I had been led to expect this from the fact of
our finding the flood-stream coming from the north-east, whereas the
direction of it in the offing is North-North-West.

SUPPLY OF TURTLES.

Barrow's Island, being about twelve miles broad and twenty long, would, in
the event of a penal settlement being formed in this neighbourhood, make a
good second Norfolk Island. On leaving we brought away with us seven
tons of turtles from the abundant supplies its shores afforded. Many of them
we gave to our friends at Swan River on our arrival. We cannot quit this
island without reminding our readers that it was named after the
distinguished Secretary to the Admiralty, who has just retired from office
after a period of service of nearly half a century, during which time he was
the promoter of all geographical research, and mainly instrumental in
founding a society which is of growing importance to Great Britain, and
who has established a lasting reputation both by his travels and his literary
productions.

On our return to Tremouille Island Mr. Fitzmaurice joined us, having
completed the examination of the Montebello Group, a large proportion of
chart material, in a very short space of time, considering the number of
small islands, which would render it an endless labour to attempt any
description, further than that they lie something in the shape of a scythe.

RITCHIE'S REEF.

A hill 145 feet high, the loftiest point of the group, rises near the centre of
Tremouille, the north-east island, off the north-west end of which a ledge
extends in the direction of an out-lying reef, bearing North 55 degrees West
(magnetic) nine miles and a half, which places it in latitude 20 degrees 17

minutes South and longitude 0 degrees 26 minutes West of Swan River; or
115 degrees 21 minutes East. This could be no other than that which we had
so often looked for as Ritchie's Reef, as our former tracks to the westward
had assured us that it did not lie in that direction. In latitude it agreed with
the position given to it on the charts, but in longitude it differed
considerably, lying full half a degree to the eastward. It therefore appeared
not to be a discovery of Lieutenant Ritchie's, as it had been not only seen
previously by the French, who had considered it as a reef extending off
Tremouille Island, but many years before by Captain Clerke, who placed it
in latitude 20 degrees 18 minutes South, nine or ten miles North-West
(magnetic) from what he thought to be Rosemary Island, but which it is
very evident was Tremouille. The name then of Clerke's Reef should be
given it instead of Ritchie's.

WALLABY SHOOTING.

Mr. Fitzmaurice having seen plenty of wallaby on the larger islands, a party
of us went on shore in the evening, after securing observations for the rates
of the chronometers on a small islet called Flag Islet, near the centre of the
rocky cluster fronting the eastern side of Hermite Island. This can be
recognised by it alone having a sandy point on the south-west end, which
we placed in latitude 20 degrees 27 minutes 47 seconds South and longitude
0 degrees 8 minutes 20 seconds west of Swan River. The time of high-water
here at full and change, was about 10 o'clock, when the tide rose fourteen
feet; the flood-stream came from the northward.

We found that Tremouille was as scantily supplied with vegetation as
Barrow's Island; in one or two places was growing a stunted kind of wood,
sufficient for fuel for a small-sized ship; but there was no sign of water. The
wallaby, which were very numerous, must have got their supply of moisture
from the copious dews. They were found lying very close in the wiry
prickly grass, allowing us to kick them out, when they went off at speed,
affording excellent sport, quite equal to any rabbit shooting; among three
guns we managed, in a couple of hours, to bag nearly twenty. It was quite a
new kind of wallaby, and has been classed, from a specimen we brought
away, as Lagorchester conspicillata. It had a blunt nose, similar to those at
Barrow's Island, and was about the same size, though its colour was lighter,

and it had a back exactly like a European hare. The tail tapered away like a
rat's, and the flesh was by no means good to eat, tasting very strong; this
was the only instance in which we found wallaby at all unpalatable.

Although our exploration in this neighbourhood did not lead to our finding
any of the land fertile, yet from the new feature our chart will give to this
part of the coast, the necessity of the Beagle's visit will be evident. Our
object had been satisfactorily attained, inasmuch as we had cleared up the
doubts respecting Ritchie's Reef, and the long-lost Tryal Rocks. We had
also been so fortunate as to add to the stores of natural history a new
kangaroo and two kinds of wallaby, besides a large water-snake.

RITCHIE'S REEF.

September 9.

We left Tremouille Island in the morning, and passing round the north side,
soon came in sight of Clerke's, alias Ritchie's Reef. It was our intention to
have gone round the northern end of it, but the tide setting two knots an
hour forced us to the southward. In a line midway between it and
Tremouille the depth was 17 and 20 fathoms. The reef was nearly three
miles long, in a north-east and south-west direction, and one mile and a half
wide; the centre being partly dry. Two miles and a half South-West by West
of it we crossed a patch of 13 fathoms, with 22 and 25 fathoms on each
side, the northern part of Hermite Island bearing South 62 degrees East
fourteen miles, soon after which it was lost sight of from the poop.

The next afternoon a westerly wind brought us again in with the land; and
in the evening we tacked in six fathoms, three miles and a half to the
northward of Thevenard Island, which we found to be connected with a reef
we discovered in the morning, lying eleven miles North by East from it;
inside this reef the water looked deep and smooth. The island is a narrow
strip lying east and west, about three miles; the west end we made in
latitude 21 degrees 26 minutes South and longitude 114 degrees 54 minutes
East. From the number of islands I saw to the south of Thevenard, I think
the reef continues to Maison Island, near the North-west Cape. The outer
one, seen from the Beagle, is in latitude 21 degrees 31 minutes South and
longitude 114 degrees 42 minutes East. I myself believe the whole extent

from Maison to Barrow's Island is occupied by islets and reefs, probably all
connected. We know, in fact, from Captain King, that a reef extends sixteen
miles off the south end of Barrow's Island.

RESULT OF SOUNDINGS.

Seventeen miles in a North-West by North direction from Thevenard Island
we had 65 fathoms, fine white sand, having deepened gradually from six
fathoms three miles north of it. In June of this year, working to the North-
East we had 68 fathoms three miles West by South of that position, and 111
fathoms six miles North-West of it; beyond this no bottom was found with
120 and 150 fathoms.*

(*Footnote. The following table is the result of other outer soundings
obtained in the Beagle, showing how far the bank of soundings extends off
the Western coast of Australia.

COLUMN 1: LATITUDE SOUTH (DEGREES, MINUTES).
COLUMN 2: DEPTH IN FATHOMS.
COLUMN 3: QUALITY OF BOTTOM.
COLUMN 4: DISTANCE FROM NEAREST LAND.

32 02 : 70 : Fine white sand and rock : Rottnest or Garden Island 20 miles.
30 55 : 86 : Fine grey sand : Main abreast 34 miles.
29 38 : 127 : Fine grey sand : Main abreast 39 miles.
26 42 : 187 : Fine grey sand : South point of Shark's Bay 37 miles.
21 14 : 111 : Fine white sand : Thevenard Island 25 miles.
20 00 : 150 : Fine white sand : Tremouille Island 35 miles.

It would thus appear that a ship in less than 110 fathoms off the west shore
of the continent would be within forty miles of the land; and nearly the
same distance from the islands fronting it, when in about 200 fathoms
between the latitudes of 19 degrees 50 minutes South and 20 degrees 10
minutes South. The bank of soundings extends further off the North-west
coast, as eighty-five miles north of Depuch Island we had only 75 fathoms,
fine white sand. In a south direction from that position the water shoaled
rapidly to 40 fathoms in fifteen miles; but very gradually afterwards to 15

fathoms in fifty miles. This slope of the bank was determined by several
boards in working to the westward.)

RETURN TO SWAN RIVER.

The glimpse we got of the string of islands lying between Barrow's Island
and the North-west Cape, was quite unexpected, as the next land we had
intended seeing was Swan River. After rounding the North-west Cape, we
had the usual southerly winds, but a strong breeze from the north-west
overtook us in latitude 30 degrees 40 minutes South and longitude 112
degrees 25 minutes East, and shortened the passage, bringing us on the 27th
to an anchorage under the east end of Rottnest Island, where we found a
current sweeping round to the southward, at the rate of nearly a knot an
hour. There had not been any previously felt; but in latitude 30 degrees
South and longitude 110 degrees East, two days before the north-wester, it
set two knots to the northward; another instance of how entirely the currents
are governed by the winds off this coast.

NATIVE TALENT.

Our Swan River native had not obtained so much information of his wild
countrymen to the northward as Miago. Still he had made the most of what
he saw; and his visit to Timor crowned all. The facility and rapidity with
which he could make a song about anyone whom he might choose as the
subject of his poetical fancy, was very amusing; he must have equalled
many of the Italian improvisatori. He had also got a very good idea of
where the ship had been since leaving Swan River, in his head. The
drawings of his countrymen on Depuch Island had greatly hurt his vanity,
whilst they excited his emulation; and always afterwards, whenever he
could get hold of paper or pencil, he was trying to excel them, which, from
the improvement he made, I have no doubt he would have shortly done.

During the time he and his townsman Miago were with us, the following
vocabulary was made; the words from Port Essington have been furnished
by Mr. Earl.

COLUMN 1: ENGLISH.
COLUMN 2: PORT ESSINGTON.

COLUMN 3: SWAN RIVER.

Crow : - : Woordang.
Emu : Angorok : Wadye.
Eggs : Olajuk : Noorago.
Shags : - : Mere.
Kangaroo : Abbugi : Yewart.
Female Kangaroo : - : Waroo.
Wallaby: - : Wallyo.
Bandicoot or rat : - : Condee.
Very small kangaroo, larger than a wallaby : - : Goora.
Ringtail possum : - : Gnoorah.
Large possum : - : Goomal.
--tailed possum : - : Mooroo.
Native dog : Nukakoin : Dudah.
The tail : - : Diar.
Black swan : - : Coolecha.
Duck : Cormoro : Oonanah.
Mountain duck : - : Kooracha.
Wombat : - : Koolemah.
Magpie : - : Gooraba.
Brown Chatterer : - : Telaho
Fishhawk : - : Undoorah.
Eagle : - : Mulurah.
Pigeon : - : Woodah.
Quail : Windalo : Barrabberry.
Tortoise : - : Booye, or Boorje.
Mullett : - : Kalkurrie.
Cobler : - : Corallia.
Small blue bird : - : Deldillia.
Snake : Ambeetj : Waggile.
Sun : Muree : Murgah.
Moon : Allee : Magee.
Stars : Argadba : Nungarah.
Clouds : - : Marah.
Wind : Mailo : Curajahl.
A bird : Aluk-aluk : Walta.

Sand : Onak : Coo-yah.
Head : Wokbok : Cuttah.
Eyes : Ira : Mael.
Nose : Anjinmul : Moolyah.
Ears : Alaijar : Tungah.
Mouth : Angaikbirig : Dah.
Chin : - : Nungah.
Face : Anmarura : Yoodah.
Hair : Angbal : Cutap.
Eyebrows : - : Mingart.
Eyelashes : - : Cunbah.
Teeth : Anjigi : Nalgo.
Tongue : - : Dalang.
Neck : - : Wardo.
Throat : - : Daragert.
Shoulders : - : Wundardah.
Arms : - : Wango.
Armpit : - : Nulyar.
Collar bone : - : Chelee wundardah.
Arm, upper : - : Maraga.
Arm, lower : - : Aye yung.
Wrist : - : Mardalliah.
Thumb : Gamar : Marang-unga.
First finger : - : Mara-mamal.
Second finger : - : Mara-cudejip.
Third finger : - : Mara-cudejip.
Little finger : - : Mara-colun.
Nails : - : Bere.
Back : - : Goon goh.
Loins : - : Moondo.
Hips : - : Corlge.
Buttocks : - : Mooro.
Hip joint : - : -.
Thigh : - : Dahwool.
Knee : - : Bonnet.
Leg : Adjirt-adjirt : Mattah.
Hams : - : Yallee.

Ankle : - : Bilgah
Heel : - : Geenang hooran.
Foot : Ingalmulbil : Geenang coongoh.
Instep : - : Geenang guerack.
Toes : Rujut-bullal : Chenang ungah.
Breast : - : Undoo.
Belly : Angonidjark : Cabollo.
Breast (woman) : - : Bebe.
Navel : - : Bilye.
Woman : Wari-comomo : Babelyah.
Man : Iwala : Medah.

To run, stoop, hide, crouch, when about to rain : Kiddi kit mya warra.
To go a long distance : Maran dugon bordeneuk.
To cut up an animal of any kind for roasting : Dedayah killa, kuirderkan, ki
ti kit.
To cover up, to keep warm : Borga koorejalah kunah.
For roasting : Ki ti kit.
To cut up : Kurerkna.
Give me some water : Yahago cabe.
I'm very thirsty : Gangah.
To carry the pickaninee : Colanganee wandung.
Here carry the pickaninee (strong expression) : Colang maranga barang
wandung.
Give me some money : Anyah (or ana) yunagh, uddah.
No money, go away : Neundoh barang gerangah.
You have money : Anyah yungagah uddah.
I go to sleep : Unyah begang undagah.
To sneeze : Neyetta.
A tree : Boono.
Vegetation generally : Jibbah.
Grass : Bobo.
Long grass : Bobo wal-yur-deg.

NAMES OF SNAKES OF SWAN RIVER.

Waggile.
Noo no.
Si Dubat.
Wang go.
Bije modo.
Cocongorun.
Beara.
Poolyar.
Uur-nah.
Iguana.
Aunderah.

LIZARDS OF ABROLHOS, AS WELL AS SWAN RIVER.

Uundung.
Jinerarah.
Jeregarah.

When the weather became fine, we ran over to Gage Road.

ERECT BEACONS AT ROTTNEST.

October 11.

We again visited Rottnest in the ship (Lieutenant Roe the Surveyor-General,
accompanying us) for the purpose of erecting beacons on the rocks lying off
the points of Thomson's Bay, as marks for leading clear to the eastward of
the Champion Rock. We were happy to have an opportunity of rendering
this important service to the colonists, who acknowledged it in a very
handsome manner.

Another object in crossing over to Rottnest was to avoid a north-west
breeze which came on the next day; on the 15th we again returned to Gage
Road.

ANECDOTES OF A WILD DOG.

Whilst we were at Swan River this time, a wish I had long entertained of
procuring a pup of the wild breed of dogs* of the country, was gratified. It
was a bitch, and left in the hollow of a tree by her mother who had just
escaped. Knowing that they hunt kangaroos in packs, and have excellent
noses, I was anxious to try if something useful might not be made out of a
cross with the fox-hound; and with this view on my arrival in England, I
gave her to my cousin, Mr. G. Lort Phillips; but she died in a fit soon after
coming into his possession. Whilst with me she had two litters of pups by a
pointer, three each time, the first at two years, and the second after an
interval of ten months. At these times she was particularly savage, and
would take the opportunity of paying off any old grudge she might have
against those who had ill-used her--for she never forgot an injury--by
stealing after them and snapping at their heels. She was very much attached
to her young; one day I took her on shore and she kept catching birds to
bring to them, supplying them, as an over-fond mother will do, with a
superfluity of good things.

(*Footnote. I am informed by Colonel Owen Phillips, 56th B.N.I., formerly
Assistant-Resident at Macassar, that he saw four wild dogs brought to Sir
Stamford Raffles at Java, which bore a very strong resemblance to the
animals mentioned in the text.)

I was very much interested in this animal, and took a great deal of pains to
tame her, though I never fully succeeded. Her nose, as I have said, was
excellent; and though quite mute she could hunt very well, as I found by
repeated trials when out rabbit shooting. She would never leave a hole,
working at it with her feet and teeth until she got at the inmate. These
qualities confirmed me in my opinion that a cross with the fox-hound would
produce a good result. As an illustration of her keenness of smell, I may
mention that one day when we were lying in the Tamar river, she winded
some sheep on the bank, and was instantly overboard and after them,
swimming so rapidly that she had reached the land, and, though herself only
the size of a large dog-fox, had pulled down a fine ram before a party could
get on shore to prevent her. When they landed, instead of trying to make her
escape, she slunk into the boat. This freak of hers cost me five pounds.

PECULIARITIES OF THE WILD DOG.

In cold weather her coat was always best, and the brush on her tail most
perfect. She was of a light tan colour, with a little white on the tip of the
tail, and a few black hairs sprinkled in the brush; there was a little black
also about her face. Her step was light and stealthy; and in her eye
meekness and cunning were curiously blended. Though very shy of man,
when once taken up in the arms she lay as quiet as a cat; but with all dogs
she was very quarrelsome, fighting savagely with a greyhound bitch I had
on board, and several times nearly killing a small dog. It was always
difficult to catch her, as she would generally manage to escape either
between the legs or by springing over the shoulders, except when we were
going on shore; then she would allow herself very quietly to be put into the
boat; but on our return the difficulty was how to get her off, and it became
necessary to pounce upon her suddenly. She was never heard to bark, the
only noise she ever made being the dismal howl peculiar to her breed, and
this only when tied up, which consequently, for the sake of peace, was but
of short duration, and always had to be done with a chain, as she would
instantly bite through a rope. Her mischievous propensity was remarkable,
as she often stole into the officers' cabin and pulled books down from the
shelves, tearing the backs off and then destroying the leaves. As an instance
of her sure-footedness and activity I may mention that I have seen her leap
twice her own height from the stem of the midship boat, in endeavouring to
seize fowls or meat that was hung on the mainstay, always alighting on the
point she sprang from. At other times she would attempt to crawl up it like a
cat, in order to steal what was there. Her proneness to thieving was very
great; I have frequently seen her eating stolen things when she would refuse
what was offered her; it was never safe to take her near poultry.

GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

Whilst in this locality I may take the opportunity of introducing a few notes
on the geological formation of the country in the neighbourhood of Swan
River, furnished by Mr. Bynoe:

The most remarkable feature is the absence or scantiness of the secondary
and transition rocks; all the tertiary appears to be of the newest kind, and to
lie in juxtaposition with the primary. This character forms the sandy margin
from the Darling Range, or chain of granite hills, nearly 2000 feet high to

the sea, in the immediate vicinity of which the sand is bounded by a
calcareous form of limestone, and, where jutting into the sea and forming
perpendicular or overhanging cliffs, the faces are thrown into a beautiful
kind of fretwork (See volume 1) of more compactness than the surrounding
mass. In most places about the neighbourhood of Fremantle, shells are
found of the existing species along the coast, firmly impacted in its
substance, particularly a large species of buccinum, as well as the strombus.
This calcareous formation has been traced as far north as Shark's Bay; it
crosses over to the Abrolhos Group, there frequently lying over a coral
formation, and forming in many places cavities of a cylindrical figure, of
some few feet in depth. Beds of clays, varying in quality and colour, are to
be met with on sandy margins, containing particles of gypsum.

On the Darling Range is found a red cellular structure capping the granite,
assuming all the appearance of having been subjected to fire; it extends also
in the low country about that neighbourhood.

Slate of a primitive character is found on the Canning River. The mountain
chain or Darling Range runs nearly in the direction of north and south. On
the eastern side of it, close to the base, are several groups of isolated conical
hills, from a half to one mile apart, extending from the William River to the
Tugee District, a distance of about one hundred and twenty miles, bearing
on their summits strong evidences of ignition. The country farther on to the
eastward falls into sandy plains, similar to those on the western side, and
intersected by watercourses; during the summer, pools remain, and at that
time become remarkably salt. On the mountains, as well as on the plains,
scattered pebbles in patches are to be met with; they appear to contain iron,
being highly magnetic.

SAIL FROM SWAN RIVER.

From the very debilitated state of some of the crew, from dysenteric
affections contracted at Timor, we were not able to leave Swan River before
the 25th of October. At noon on the 28th, Cape Naturaliste bore South 80
degrees East three miles; according to our observations it was in latitude 33
degrees 31 minutes 45 seconds South four miles further south than it is
placed in the charts, though in longitude (0 degrees 47 minutes 30 seconds
West of Swan River) it appeared pretty correct. Some reefs have been

reported three or four miles off the north-east side of it: but we could see
nothing of them, and had a depth of 25 and 26 fathoms. We got soundings
of 23 and 25 fathoms in passing along a few miles from the coast towards
Cape Leeuwin, in the neighbourhood of which we looked in vain for a rock
called the Rambler, that had been supposed to be about twelve miles south-
west of a remarkable white patch close to the northward of the Cape, the
locality of which it always serves to show. Twenty miles west of Cape
Leeuwin the depth was 47 fathoms.

Passing along the south coast we found the white-topped rocks near Cape
Chatham to be in longitude 0 degrees 29 minutes 30 seconds East of Swan
River. They are not only remarkable in themselves, but like the Eclipse
Islands, are admirably situated for showing a ship's position when in with
the coast.

PASSING BETWEEN BALD HEAD AND VANCOUVER REEF.
G. Gore, del.
London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.

PEAKED HILL.

We entered King George's Sound on November 2nd. I should here observe
that Bald Head is connected with the main by a low piece of land, in the
centre of which stands a small peak; this gives the head, from the offing to
the southward, the appearance of an island. In the view annexed the reader
will perceive a representation of the conspicuous headland called Peaked
Hill, with its peculiar profile outline, lying about five miles south-west of
Bald Head.

Proceeding up the Sound we anchored in Princess Royal Harbour, Mount
Clarence bearing North-North-East, and the south end of Michaelmas
Island just open of Point Possession. The entrance to this great basin is by a
narrow channel in the north-east corner; a long spit extending off the inner
western entrance-point forms the chief impediment. Few vessels escape
touching it; but although the passage is thus contracted the Beagle was
worked through both ways. Inside, there is water sufficient for the largest
ship in the navy; but only for a limited space, a short distance within the
entrance--merely a hollow scooped out towards the north-west corner of the
harbour.

ALBANY.

Here, just above a dazzling white sandy beach, a straggling village points
out the township of Albany. Mounts Clarence and Melville reared their bare
granitic heads on either side, and huge fantastically-shaped boulders were
strewn over their slopes. The origin of this settlement may not be generally
known: it was first planned, in consequence of a report that the French were
about to establish themselves there; which turned out to be the truth, for
they had actually formed and abandoned a settlement before Major Lockyer
arrived from Sydney, in 1825. The gang of convicts he brought with him
was withdrawn, when Albany became part of the government of Western
Australia.

Among the few improvements that had taken place since our visit in 1836,
were a jetty and a government storehouse. The latter was close to the spot
where the observations were made, and where I noticed some trappean
dykes intersecting the granite in a North-North-West direction. I observed
the same circumstance at Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope.

I was sorry to see that the infant town of Albany had made so little progress,
especially as it possesses by far the finest harbour in Western Australia.
There is no doubt that ultimately its great natural advantages will be
developed; but it is somewhat surprising that they have not already been
turned to better account. Though there is not a very great extent of good
land in the neighbourhood, there is amply sufficient to hold out
encouragement to the settler; especially when we consider that this is one of
the most healthy portions of the continent, that it is never visited by hot
winds, and that the thermometer is rarely below 60 or above 85 degrees.
This evenness of temperature at all times of the year is very remarkable,
and renders the spot particularly suitable for invalids, many persons coming
even from Swan River to renovate themselves. If our East Indians were
aware of what a salubrious climate they might enjoy at King George's
Sound, they would soon be seen flocking thither to repair the constitutions
they have injured on the banks of the Ganges and the Indus.

Our object in visiting this place was to obtain a meridian distance; and
between the observations for rating the chronometers I availed myself of an
offer of Lieutenant Warburton, commanding the detachment of the 51st
Regiment, doing duty there, to accompany him on a visit to the out-stations.
We were joined by a person from the settlement, who owned some
kangaroo dogs, and by three or four natives.

Leaving Albany, we reached the foot of a large clear piece of land called the
Great Plain, about fifteen miles distant, and a little off the Swan River road.

BURNING THE BUSH.

On our way we met a party of natives engaged in burning the bush, which
they do in sections every year. The dexterity with which they manage so
proverbially a dangerous agent as fire is indeed astonishing. Those to whom
this duty is especially entrusted, and who guide or stop the running flame,
are armed with large green boughs, with which, if it moves in a wrong
direction, they beat it out. Their only object in these periodical
conflagrations seems to be the destruction of the various snakes, lizards,
and small kangaroos, called wallaby, which with shouts and yells they thus
force from their covert, to be despatched by the spears or throwing-sticks of
the hunting division. The whole scene is a most animated one, and the eager

savage, every muscle in action and every faculty called forth, then appears
to the utmost advantage, and is indeed almost another being. I can conceive
no finer subject for a picture than a party of these swarthy beings engaged
in kindling, moderating, and directing the destructive element, which under
their care seems almost to change its nature, acquiring, as it were, complete
docility, instead of the ungovernable fury we are accustomed to ascribe to
it. Dashing through the thick underwood, amidst volumes of smoke--their
dark active limbs and excited features burnished by the fierce glow of the
fire--they present a spectacle which it rarely falls to our lot to behold, and of
which it is impossible to convey any adequate idea by words.

COURSE A KANGAROO.

After tethering out our horses and making our breakwind for the night, we
went out in the evening to look for a kangaroo. I had never as yet seen one
put fairly at his speed on open ground before a dog, but this evening I was
fully gratified; for we soon found a couple lying out on our side of the
plain, and by crawling up through the wood we managed to slip the dogs
about five hundred yards from them. Away they went, leaving a stream of
dust in their wake. Their habitual curving direction soon gave us a
broadside view; and a splendid course it was. They ran horizontally, no leap
or hop being perceptible. At first the dogs closed rapidly, but for some time
afterwards no change in their relative positions took place, each doing his
best. The kangaroos held their own well, until they had reached nearly the
other side of the plain, a distance of about two miles, when the dogs began
gradually to draw on them, and at length, after a turn or two, the smaller
was run into just before entering the wood. It was a fine young buck,
weighing about 60 pounds, and made a capital supper for our party. The
natives cooked the tail for us in their own way, roasting it with the hair on,
the best mode of dressing it, except in soup.

Next morning we found that our sable friends had eaten so much of the
kangaroo that there was great difficulty in getting them to move. However,
they at length consented to accompany us, and we proceeded five or six
miles further on the Swan River road, to a place where a party of soldiers
were stationed. Here the temptation of a fresh supply of kangaroo proved
irresistible, and with the exception of one, who was Lieutenant Warburton's

servant, the natives all left us to resume the pleasant occupation of eating.
The gastronomic feats performed by these persons are really surprising; and
in the work recently published by Mr. Eyre the reader will find some
curious details on the subject.

We now took a westerly direction, for a tract of good country lying about
thirty-five miles from the Sound, a little to the westward of the road to
Swan River.

PITFALLS FOR KANGAROOS.

On our way we crossed several short trenches, cut by the natives for
pitfalling kangaroos, which were here very numerous. They were dug
across the runs of the animal, and covered with a slight layer of brush or
grass, and were very narrow at the bottom, so that the prey could get no
footing to bound out.

HERDS OF KANGAROOS.

I have never, at any other place, seen similar contrivances resorted to by the
aborigines; in this neighbourhood they have probably been suggested by the
great abundance in which the kangaroo is found. I am certain there could
scarcely have been less than a hundred in a herd. It was curious to observe
them hopping along over the grass or underneath the trees, with the large
males bringing up the rear of a certain number of does. We had several very
beautiful courses, but the dogs being footsore were beaten on all occasions.

I was very much pleased with this portion of the country: it quite resembles
the park-like features of Port Phillip. We heard the kangaroos thumping the
ground all night, as they hopped along round our bivouac, the heavier fall of
the male being plainly distinguishable. It was now determined to shape a
southward course for Ungerup, one of Lady Spencer's farms on the Hay
River; and after laying down our position by a sort of dead reckoning I had
kept to find the course, we started.

Soon after moving off, Lieutenant Warburton discovered that he had
forgotten to leave some message or other at the station, and determined on
sending back his native servant. But as he was out of the limits of his own

tribe, it required some persuasion to induce him to go; and he was only
prevailed on to do so by being allowed to carry his master's gun for
protection.

Part of our road lay through a thick mahogany scrub; and as the horse I rode
was a young unbroken one from the Cape, I might perhaps with less trouble
have tried to take an elephant straight with a snaffle bit in his mouth. The
sameness of the trees in this part being very great it is difficult to hold a
direct course; and if, after having chosen one to steer by, my attention
happened to be taken off by a kangaroo starting up, I was always obliged to
refer to the compass.

We made the Hay a mile or two above Ungerup; it is there a small tortuous
rivulet, with rich grassy banks, overhung by wide shady trees. The valley is
narrow, sloping gently up on either side. If I had been pleased with the good
piece of land just left, I was still more so with this; the mould was rich and
fine: I did not believe there was land of such quality near the Sound.

LADY SPENCER'S FARMS.

In passing another of Lady Spencer's farms, seven miles farther down the
same river, we were glad to pocket a large piece of damper for our evening
meal, which we made at our old bivouac near the Great Plain, where we
found the native under the break-wind, which he had covered with another
bough or two. Next evening we got into Albany, and on the morning of the
15th the Beagle was running out of King George's Sound.

It was resolved that we should touch at South Australia, to secure a good
meridian distance by short stages between Swan River and Sydney.
Accordingly, on the morning of the 27th, we entered Investigator Strait,
having been detained by strong easterly winds about a hundred and fifty
miles to the westward of Kangaroo Island. Whilst contending with them we
discovered a small high rocky island, the summit of which we found to be
in latitude 34 degrees 49 minutes South and in longitude 19 degrees 4
minutes East of Swan River; it bore South 8 degrees East nine miles from
the high peak on Greenly's Island. The name of the Beagle was bestowed
upon it.

At noon, as we entered the Strait, we committed to the deep the body of
Nicholas Lewis, seaman, who died of sickness contracted at Timor.

NEPTUNE ISLES.

We kept close to the Neptune Isles, a low rocky group, the southernmost of
which we give the position of; Captain Flinders, who passed too far to the
northward, having not exactly determined it: it lies in latitude 35 degrees 22
minutes 15 seconds South and longitude 20 degrees 22 minutes 15 seconds
East of Swan River. These islands appear well adapted for a light-house.

There was a strong indraught of a knot an hour into Spencer's Gulf.
Kangaroo Island has no remarkable features; whilst Althorpe and Quoin
islands are sufficiently striking to be recognized by anyone who has once
seen them.

On the morning of the 29th we anchored in Holdfast Road, in 4 1/2
fathoms, Mount Lofty,* a slight excrescence on the highest part of the range
of hills eastwards, bearing North 80 degrees East; a flagstaff at a straggling
village under it pointed out the township of Glenelg. At the foot of this we
made our observations, which place it in latitude 34 degrees 58 minutes 30
seconds South and longitude 12 degrees 41 minutes 15 seconds West of
Sydney.

(*Footnote. This hill, bearing east, is a guide to Holdfast Road.)

Landing at Glenelg we proceeded towards Adelaide, which lay about six
miles to the northward, in the centre of a rich plain, stretching from the foot
of Mount Lofty to the sea, and contracting gradually to the southward,
where beyond Glenelg it rises into downs, increasing in height as they
approach Cape Jervis, and ultimately blending with spurs thrown off from
Mount Lofty range. Adelaide itself is situated on the banks of the Torrens, a
very insignificant stream, or rather series of pools, in the dry season.

ADELAIDE.

I have spoken, in a former chapter, of my astonishment at first seeing
Sydney; but certainly the same feeling was roused in a still greater degree

by the first appearance of Adelaide; although I was prepared for something
great by what I had heard of the multitudes that had flocked thither from the
mother country. In truth a noble city had in the course of four years sprung,
as if by magic, from the ground, wearing such an appearance of prosperity
and wealth that it seemed almost incredible it could have existed but for so
short a time.

GOVERNOR GAWLER'S POLICY.

The fact is that this was mainly owing to the liberal expenditure of the
governor, Colonel Gawler, who saw the policy at the earliest possible
opportunity of making adequate preparation for the stream of population
that was so rapidly flowing in. Every public building was erected on a scale
to suit the anticipated splendour of the colony, and in so substantial a
manner, that it will be long ere another outlay becomes necessary. That this
was the best line of conduct to adopt, most persons, on reflection, will
acknowledge. In New Zealand, for example, much of the disturbances that
have arisen may be attributed to the fact of so many settlers arriving before
sufficient preparation had been made for their reception.

Much fault has been found with Colonel Gawler's military display, as it is
called; in other words, with his raising a corps of volunteers. But the
necessity of this may be presumed from the facts, that Sir Charles Napier,
the conqueror of Scinde, as we learn from his own pen, refused the
government, because a military force was not to be sent with him; and that
it has been found advisable to place a body of troops at the disposal of
Colonel Gawler's successor.

I paid a visit to the port, distant from the town about five miles, made easy
by an excellent macadamized road, carried, in some places, on a causeway
over a swamp, and forming a great and imperishable monument of the
Governor's enterprising spirit. The port reminded me of one of the quiet
mangrove creeks on the North coast, except that it had only one bend,
changing from a northerly to a south-westerly direction, which at certain
times of the day renders it navigable, with a fair wind, each way. For
instance, the seabreeze will take a vessel out through the northerly part, and
next morning she will have the land breeze to carry her the rest of the
distance; whilst, alternating, the same breeze serves to take ships in. The

mouth of the port is well marked with black and white buoys; and a light
vessel is moored off the entrance, with pilots in attendance; a red buoy is on
the bar, where at high-water there is sometimes 15 feet, but the tides are
very irregular, being much higher with south-west winds; the general rise
was about four feet.

MR. EYRE'S EXPEDITION.

We were very much pleased with the animated description we had of the
departure of Mr. Eyre's expedition to the north; but what gave us particular
satisfaction was the evidence afforded of how much the whole colony had
the welfare of this enterprising little band at heart. I had not before seen in
Australia any place where the progress of discovery was so liberally
forwarded, as the readers will at once learn from Mr. Eyre's book. One
cause of this we may discover in the fact that the richness of the country
immediately surrounding Adelaide made them eager to ascertain its extent.
Indeed until this was known they were necessarily unsettled, as few liked to
locate themselves permanently until the extent of the field within which
they were to make their choice was determined.

To what extent the colonists of South Australia are indebted to the sacrifice
of property, the loss of time, the bodily fatigue, and unceasing exertions of
Mr. Eyre, I also leave the reader to gather from his own lucid narrative. The
country has now been found to be almost hemmed in by sterile districts; and
the good lands, contrary to our experience of the rest of the continent, to be
nearly all in one spot. A number of enterprising colonists, therefore,
concentrated within comparatively narrow limits, could not fail of
developing the resources of the country, and of discovering what mineral
treasures it may contain. The good encouragement it has lately received has,
to a certain extent, assisted in bringing it back to the position of one of the
most thriving colonies in Australia; though we must attribute much of its
present prosperity to the impulse originally given by the policy of Colonel
Gawler, which, though it may have caused a temporary financial
embarrassment, is now making its happy effects sensibly felt.

THE OVERLANDERS.

The eastern extent of the country of South Australia was determined by the
Overlanders, as they call the gentlemen who bring stock from New South
Wales. The first that came across were Messrs. Bonny and Horden. An
interesting account of them will be found in Captain Grey's work. Many of
these pioneers of civilization endure extraordinary hardships during their
expeditions; as an example of which I may mention that Mr. Bonny, in
endeavouring to find a new route, was compelled to kill a calf and drink its
blood to save his life. On this occasion water was found by the cattle,
turned loose for that purpose. Another gentleman, who had lost his way in
the bush, had recourse to a curious expedient to assuage his burning thirst,
namely, to bleed the horse he rode, which was the means of preserving both
himself and the quadruped also.

On our arrival in Adelaide the town was full of the Overlanders, and
everyone was engaged in buying or selling stock, which gave the place
quite an animated appearance. From one of these gentlemen I learned
undeniable proofs that the Australians indulge in cannibalism. He had seen
in a woman's bag the hand of a child that had been partly eaten. Since that
time the matter has been placed beyond a doubt by the report of the
Protector, Mr. Sievewright, who witnessed with his own eyes a most
horrible feast off the body of a young woman.* It is extraordinary that a
custom so remarkable should have so long wanted confirmation.

(*Footnote. See Mr. Eyre's Discoveries in Central Australia.)

CAPTAIN STURT.

At Adelaide I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the intrepid
traveller Captain Sturt, who has since again taken the field, endeavouring to
penetrate to the interior of the Australian continent, and to remove the veil
of mystery that now hangs over it. From him I learnt that the same strange
kind of bird, a species of rail, that once visited Swan River, also made its
appearance in South Australia on one occasion. I have already alluded to
this remarkable circumstance in a former chapter.

During our stay we visited Mount Lofty, placed by our observations in
latitude 34 degrees 58 minutes 20 seconds South, and longitude 12 degrees
30 minutes 20 seconds West of Sydney. The cool air of this range, the

greatest elevation of which is 2200 feet, was very pleasant after a ride over
the heated plain. I was agreeably surprised to find in the heart of the hills a
most comfortable inn, where our party sat down to a luncheon of lamb
chops and green peas, with a beautiful cool bottle of sherry. Such is the
march of civilization! To the north of our road was a lead mine, which will
ultimately be a source of great riches to the colony; for which, indeed,
nature has done much in the way of mineral productions.

NATIVE SCHOOLS.

I was greatly pleased with the apparent success that had attended the
schools of the German Missionaries; and especially with the aptitude for
learning displayed by both boys and girls; but my pleasure would have been
much increased had I not felt convinced that the system of education
adopted, possessed many serious defects. In the first place, sufficient care
did not seem to have been taken to recommend the schools to the natives,
and to induce them to send their children voluntarily. That it was necessary
to resort to some means of effecting this beyond mere persuasion, will be
evident when we recollect how useful even the youngest member of an
Australian family is to its parents. Almost as soon as the child begins to
walk, certainly as soon as it is capable of receiving instruction, light tasks,
even in the hunting expeditions, are allotted to it; so that, to remove either
boys or girls, and take them to school, is, in reality, to deprive their friends
of assistance, which to them is valuable. For this reason, some
compensating advantage should be offered to the father, to prevail on him to
send his children to school.

Again, when once pupils have been procured, it is exceedingly unwise to
allow them to maintain a constant intercourse with their tribe, and be thus
subjected to deteriorating influences that must almost irresistibly combat
the beneficial effects of their education. But it is needless to dwell further
on this subject, as Mr. Eyre has so completely stated the question in his late
work.

REMARKS ON THE SYSTEM FOR CIVILISING THE NATIVES.

I cannot, however, refrain from alluding to another point in connection with
this matter; namely, that when I visited South Australia, all instruction was

communicated in the native language. My attention had already been drawn
to the subject on visiting Tahiti, in 1835, when I perceived with regret, that
the missionaries, instead of endeavouring to introduce the English tongue,
persisted in imparting instruction in a kind of corrupted dialect, of which
the words were for the most part native, whilst the syntax and construction
were in exact conformity with our own; the observation of the same
circumstance at New Zealand, had further induced me to reflect on the
subject. How much more prudent would it have been to introduce, at once,
the language of Great Britain into the islands of the Pacific; as, judging
from every indication, it must ultimately prevail over the vast variety of
primitive and imperfect dialects now spoken; and which serve as barriers
between the various tribes. That the same mistake should have been made
in South Australia was the more remarkable, as public opinion seems to run
completely counter to it. It appears evident indeed, that if the object was to
benefit and civilize the aboriginal inhabitant, the right course to take, was to
give him an instrument which he could employ to enlarge his mind and
extend his experience. It was wrong to expect that much good could be
done by confining him within the sphere in which his thoughts had been
accustomed to move; or at any rate, to limit the expansion of his
knowledge, within the bounds of a dialect which was only imperfectly
understood by the masters who taught it. I am aware that the excellent men
who adopted this plan, were fearful of allowing the natives to acquire a
facility of communicating with the vicious part of the white population; but
had they taken a more enlarged view, and considered the absolute
impossibility of preventing a certain amount of intercourse--had they had
more confidence in the better part of their own race, and reflected on the
immense advantage which the inquisitive savage would derive from being
enabled to put questions to men who could enlighten him by their answers,
they would more speedily have effected their benevolent intentions. I am of
opinion that no surer method of raising the Australian in the scale of
civilization could have been devised, than to put him in possession of the
English language; and I am glad to hear that the opinion I so early formed
has at length been partially acted upon. The natives will soon be open to an
engagement on board a vessel, and may expect to emulate the New
Zealanders, some of whom have risen to be mates; and to acquire the
information and experience of which they stand so much in need. Whereas,
were their knowledge confined to their own imperfect dialect, not only

would they be unable to extend their acquaintance with other parts of the
world, and with the arts of civilization, but they would remain, as many of
them now are, actually incapable of communicating with many inhabitants
of their own districts. For it must be borne in mind, that very frequently, a
tribe inhabiting one valley is ignorant of the language spoken in the next.
So that to instruct them only in their own forms of speech, is not only
difficult, since, on the death of each master someone else has to learn the
grammar and vocabulary to supply his place, but absolutely tends to
perpetuate the isolation in which the natives now live; and which is the
main cause of the little development of their minds, and the inferior position
they occupy in the scale of civilization.

LEAVE HOLDFAST ROAD.

We sailed from Holdfast Road, on December 7th, but in consequence of
light winds, with occasional very heavy squalls, it was not until the
afternoon of the 10th, that we got out to sea by Backstairs Passage, between
Cape Jervis and Kangaroo Island. On the morning of the 8th, we were
obliged to shorten all sail to a very heavy squall from West-South-West,
which announced its appearance by a distant roaring, some time before it
was seen on the water. These squalls generally succeed the hot winds that
prevail at this season in South Australia, coming from the interior.*

(*Footnote. During the hot winds we observed the thermometer, in the
direct rays of the sun, to be 135 degrees.)

ARRIVE AT SYDNEY.

Easterly winds prevented us from entering Bass Strait until the 16th. In
reaching in towards the coast, seven or eight miles west of Cape Otway, we
found that it projected three or four miles too much on the charts. Bass
Strait appeared under a different aspect from what it had been accustomed
to wear; light winds, by no means in keeping with our impatience, detaining
us till the 21st, when we got a kick out of the eastern entrance from a strong
south-wester, and afterwards had a good run up to Sydney, where we
arrived on the 23rd.

CHAPTER 2.7.

Land Sales.
Unsettled boundaries.
New Zealand.
Hunter River.
Midnight alarm.
Ludicrous scene.
Changes in Officers of ship.
Leave Sydney.
Port Stephens.
Corrobory.
Gale at Cape Upstart.
Magnetical Island.
Halifax Bay.
Astonish a Native.
Description of country.
Correct chart.
Restoration Island.
Picturesque arrival.
Interview with the Natives from Torres Strait.
Their weapons.
Shoal near Endeavour River.
Discover good passage through Endeavour Strait.
Booby Island.
New birds.
The Painted Quail.

LAND SALES.

No improvement had taken place in colonial affairs, and the sales of land, in
consequence of the high price, were very limited. The fact was, the
regulations that had recently been made gave very little satisfaction. By
these the minimum price was fixed at one pound per acre; in consequence
of which many predicted that millions of acres would be excluded from the
market for ages to come, as it seemed not conceivable that any change
could make them worth a quarter that sum, especially as on an average the
natural grasses of the country will only support one sheep to four acres. The
inevitable consequence was to prevent an augmentation of the emigration

fund, which inflicted a serious evil on the colony, though by many the high
price was considered a great boon, as it enabled them to enjoy, at a trifling
charge, immense back runs, as safe from the intrusion of interlopers as if
they had been granted by the Crown in perpetuity. It is my impression that
the attempt to raise the largest sum of money by the sale of the smallest
number of allotments is unwise, as it operates as a discouragement to small
capitalists, who wish to occupy the land for themselves; it would in the end
be more advantageous almost to give the land away, to a certain extent, in
order to encourage people to go there. It may be worth remarking here, that
on a rough calculation the pound per acre system would realise, supposing
the whole continent were sold, the sum of about 1,679,616,000 pounds.

UNSETTLED BOUNDARIES.

The most curious circumstance connected with the division of land in New
South Wales, is the uncertainty that prevails respecting the boundary line of
estates, which must be the source of endless disputes and expensive
litigation among the colonists. The whole arises from the system adopted of
laying down the boundaries by the magnetic north instead of by the true.
This is in itself no easy matter, owing to the local attraction and the
difficulty of finding needles that agree. But the chief cause of endless
change is the variation, which has progressively increased at Sydney since
the colony was first formed, so as to make a difference in the boundary of a
grant of land of one square mile in ten.

I will suppose a case in order to illustrate my meaning. In the early days of
the colony a piece of land is obtained by a person who merely performs the
location duties, and does nothing to his estate until the present time, when
he or his successor goes to occupy it. When the land was purchased the
direction of the boundary line was, by compass North 20 degrees East; but
the proprietor finds that in consequence of the increase of variation during
the interval, a North 20 degrees East line by compass at this time would
differ from what it was when his title deeds were made out, one square mile
in ten. As this change has at Sydney been progressive, and may indeed take
a contrary direction, the boundary lines of grants of lands depending on it
will vary accordingly, and afford endless food for the lawyers. A scientific
friend of mine, who was once trying to remedy the evil in a particular

instance, was entreated by one of that profession not to interfere, for by so
doing he would be taking the bread out of the mouths of himself and his
brethren.

NEW ZEALAND.

Since our last visit to Sydney the colonisation of New Zealand had taken
place, but from what I heard of the loose system pursued by the Company
of obtaining lands from the natives, I could not but form an opinion that
those who bought lots of them must in the end be ruined; even their right to
sell these lands at all was at the time much questioned. This being the case,
the difficulty any Governor must have to contend with, who should attempt
to solve the intricate problem involved in the land-question, was apparent,
and it will be evident also that those who pretend to form a judgment on the
conduct of Captain R. Fitzroy, must take into consideration the character of
the people, both white and coloured, with whom he had to deal, and various
other circumstances that are usually kept out of sight.

During our long stay at Sydney I visited the mouth of the Hunter, for the
purpose of determining the position of Newcastle. The courthouse,
according to my observations, is in latitude 32 degrees 55 minutes 50
seconds South and longitude 0 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds East of
Sydney. This is the district from which all the coal used in New South
Wales is brought, and a good harbour is therefore of importance. A party of
convicts were employed in building a breakwater, connecting a cliffy island
at the entrance with the south point of the river, for the purpose of
deepening the mouth, but I much question whether it will answer, as the silt
that is washed down by the stream not finding its former exit may by
meeting the sea form a bar.

In ascending the valley of the Hunter I saw sufficient to convince me that a
railroad could easily be carried up from Newcastle to Maitland, and thence
to Patrick's Plains.*

(*Footnote. It appears that a company having for its object the realization of
this idea has just been formed.)

MIDNIGHT ALARM.

I cannot at this place resist the temptation of relating an anecdote, which,
though it is not exactly connected with the subject of my work, may not be
thought uninteresting by the reader. I was one night sleeping at a friend's
house; all the family had retired to rest, and I have no doubt that a perfect
stillness prevailed around. Suddenly, a noise like thunder startled me from
my slumbers, and as soon as I was able to collect my scattered thoughts, I
distinctly heard a series of violent blows against a door at the foot of the
staircase leading up to my bedroom. Though the first impression might have
been that the disturbance was caused by thieves breaking into the house, it
appeared improbable that such characters should make their approach with
so much clamour. I instantly leaped out of bed, and arrived in time to see a
sight which I shall never forget.

LUDICROUS SCENE.

The owner of the house, who slept on the ground floor, equally astonished
with myself at the noise, had also quitted his pillow, and, arming himself
with a sword and taper, advanced, in the costumes of Iago, when he
reappears upon the stage after stabbing Cassio and Rodorigo, towards the
door against which the monotonous thumping still continued at regular
intervals. It now appeared that the cause of his alarm was on the inside; and
my host who believed that a party of robbers had introduced themselves
into his premises, hailed them in a loud voice, promising that if they did not
cease their hammering, and surrender, he would put them every one to
death. So far from attending to his suggestion the thumps increased in
rapidity and violence, and he had scarcely time to put himself in a defensive
position when the door burst open and out rushed his assailants--a multitude
of round figures of all sizes, without heads, legs, or arms! His first thought
was that the supernatural existences of New South Wales had now for the
first time revealed themselves to his eyes! Here was material for a fairytale!
The genii of this country in which everything runs into leg were then it
appeared all body! Such were the fancies that flashed through his mind as
he made a desperate lunge at the advancing foe, one of whom he transfixed
from breast to back, whilst the rest in an instant overthrew and trampled
him under foot, if I may use the expression. And now arose a wild scream--
of laughter from myself and the others who had witnessed this mortal
combat, for the disturbers of our night's repose were no other than a number

of huge pumpkins, which had been placed in a heap upon a press on the
landing, and from having been perhaps carelessly piled had given way, and
rolled, one by one, downstairs, accumulating at the bottom against the door,
until by their weight they forced it open!

CHANGES ON BOARD THE BEAGLE.

During our stay at Sydney some important changes took place among the
officers of the ship, the principal of which were the departure for England
of Captain Wickham, who had never thoroughly recovered from the attack
of dysentery he experienced on our first arrival at Swan River, and the
promotion of the writer to the vacancy thus created. Lieutenants Emery and
Eden also left for England; the former was succeeded by Lieutenant
Graham Gore.

This almost total change in the arrangements of the ship requiring some
delay, and the season for passing through Torres Strait, moreover, not
having commenced, it was the 3rd of June 1841, before the Beagle again
rounded Breaksea Spit, having touched on the way for a meridian distance
at Port Stephens.*

(*Footnote. We ran out of Port Stephens before a westerly gale. After
passing between Entrance Island and Soldier Point, we steered for
Salamander Head, and then for Tomaree Summit, when it was over the
centre of the first projection inside Nelson Head, which led over the south-
west corner of the shoal patch lying abreast of Red Point in 4 fathoms.
When Nelson Head just shut in Yacaba extreme, we steered for the former,
and passing it hauled over North-East 1/2 East for the western part of
Yacaba Head, keeping a white spot on the second point inside Nelson Head,
just open of the latter, until the leading marks for running out (which I have
before given in my former visit to Port Stephens) were on.)

SINGULAR CORROBORY.

Whilst at the latter place, I witnessed a corrobory presenting a peculiar
feature. As soon as it was dark, a number of heaps of fuel scattered here and
there were simultaneously ignited, and the whole surface of the green was
speedily lighted up by the flames. When the illumination was complete, the

men, painted with spots and lines of white commenced the dance, which
consisted in running sideways or in file, stamping with great violence, and
emitting an inharmonious grunt, gesticulating violently all the time, and
brandishing and striking together their weapons. The peculiar feature in this
corrobory, was the throwing of the kiley, or boomerang, lighted at one end;
the remarkable flight and extraordinary convolutions of this weapon marked
by a bright line of fire, had a singular and startling effect.

As we were rounding Breaksea Spit, we met four merchant ships, who
gladly availed themselves of our convoy. On the 6th, being anxious to
repeat our last meridian distance, and also the magnetic observations, we
anchored under Cape Upstart. We likewise availed ourselves of the visit to
complete the examination of the bay on the east side of the Cape. The 7th
was a remarkably gloomy day, signalized by a very unusual fall in the
barometer between 8 A.M., and 2 P.M., from 30.14 to 30.00, when the
breeze which had been fresh in the morning, increased to a gale with
squalls. At 3, the wind shifted to the southward, and at 8 when it moderated,
the barometer again rose to 30.17. It is these sudden breezes that are so fatal
to ships caught off the outer barrier without an opening to get within its
shelter. No traces of natives were seen; but the supply of water was as
abundant as before, and we took the opportunity of completing our stock.

MAGNETICAL ISLAND.

On the 8th in the evening we left for Magnetical Island, about half a mile
off the west side of which we anchored next day in 5 fathoms. The depth
from thence shoals in gradually to the head of the bay. A small rocky islet,
to which our observations refer, bore south half a mile, in latitude 19
degrees 7 minutes 10 seconds South and longitude 4 degrees 29 minutes 12
seconds West of Sydney. On this I found a greyish kind of slate; but on
Magnetical Island I discovered no local attraction affecting the needle, so as
to warrant the name bestowed by Cook. It is a high piece of land, with an
ill-defined peak in the centre, 1770 feet high.

A description and view of it have been given in the first volume. We
remained there five days, in order to rate the chronometers, and to examine
the head of Halifax Bay, where a large estuary had been reported by Captain
King; but of this we could see nothing, and came to the conclusion that he

must have been deceived by mirage. The land certainly was low in that
direction, and trending in to the southward appeared afterwards to wind
round to South-West, offering facilities for getting over the range before
spoken of as 3,600 feet high, and bounding the shore of Halifax Bay. We
were, however, glad of this opportunity of examining a portion of the
continent, that had always excited the attention of those who passed, by its
fertile aspect.

HALIFAX BAY.

A party landed in the south corner of Halifax Bay, on a long flat sandy
beach, which at high-water is completely covered. Crossing some small
sand dunes, bound together by a sort of spinifex, we got into a luxuriant
growth of grass, rich and soft, with a springing sort of feel to the feet. A few
wallaby were started in this, but we obtained none; and seeing a group of
rich-looking eucalypti and tea-trees, some of us bent our steps thitherwards,
and found a small stream of fresh water, which filtered itself through the
sand towards the beach. There was no time to trace it; but for some distance
inland we could follow its course with the eye, from the luxuriant
vegetation it nourished. The soil was light and sandy, covered with dense
creepers, and innumerable quantities of the Angustifolia in splendid flower,
many of the clusters occupying a space of three feet in diameter, with a
proportionate stem of about five feet from the earth. The hum of insects,
and sudden disturbance of rich-coloured parrots, screaming and fluttering
through the branches, and the strong, short, rapid flight of the dove, with its
melancholy cooing, transported us in imagination a long way inland,
whereas we were not three hundred yards from the beach. We now wended
our way towards a small eminence, through long grass, in most places
interwoven with creepers, compelling us to tear our way through them in
the ascent.

ASTONISH A NATIVE.

In doing so Mr. Bynoe flushed a native; but before the rest of the party
could come up, he had taken to flight. The simultaneous cries of "here's a
native!" "where!" "here!" "there he goes stark naked," rose; and before ALL
EYES could catch a glimpse, his dark figure insensibly blended with the
waving branches of his wild solitude, and without a cry of fear or joy, he

was lost to us, perhaps for ever! We burst through the same brushwood he
had recently thrown aside, and entered a labyrinth of forest trees, without
finding a clue to the direction he had taken.

The whole of the country appeared to be granitic; the eminence on which
we stood bore that character, and some parts, near the beach, were thrown
into massive blocks, at high-water, completely surrounded by the flux of
tide. The view inland was intercepted by hills and trees, the former
assuming the same appearance as the one we were on, but higher. Our
game-bag was thinly lined with small curlews, oyster-catchers, and
sanderlings.

A sandy spit connects Magnetical Island on the south side with the main,
and must be sufficiently shoal at low water to allow the natives to ford over;
for we found no canoes with those we met on the island, who were
numerous and apparently very well disposed. Although not a large race,
they were in very good condition; part of their food, is the native yam,
called warran in Western Australia. The birds on the island are common to
other parts; and the wallaby, of which Mr. Bynoe shot three, are light
coloured.

CORRECT CHART.

On the evening of the 13th, we again proceeded on our passage; the night
was hazy, with a few slight squalls, much resembling the weather which we
had before experienced in the same place. Towards the close of the 15th, we
anchored eight miles from Cape Tribulation, bearing North 11 degrees
West. The summit of Snapper Island, bore South 7 degrees East six miles;
by which we found that both it and the coast are placed on the charts too
much to the eastward.

In passing Point Barrow I was very much struck with the similarity which
the low line of cliffs, running along the summit of the high land, bears to
that on the Victoria River.* We avoided the reef off Cape Flinders, by
following the directions given in the first volume, and by making a detour
to the southward round Princess Charlotte's Bay, were enabled to keep
underweigh all night.

(*Footnote. See Sketches.)

RESTORATION ISLAND.

Continuing, we reached Restoration Island soon after dark on the 19th. It
was rather a confined anchorage, to be taken up at that hour with five ships.
Our arrival was under rather singular circumstances. The night being dark,
we could not make out even the outline of the high rocky island, which
appeared one dark mass; and the meeting of the land and sea was only
occasionally distinguished by patches of white, where the water broke
against the steep rocky sides of the island. Not a sound came from the shore
as we drew near our berth; but no sooner did the heavy splash of the anchor,
and the noise of the cable running out, resound among the heights, than one
loud yell of startled natives seemed to rise from one end of the island to the
other. The discharge of a signal rocket, however, that curved its flight over
the island, instantaneously quieted the uproar, and a death-like silence
succeeded.

NATIVES OF TORRES STRAIT.

In the morning we found that the island was occupied by a party of natives
from Torres Strait. Their canoes, which were furnished with outriggers,
were hauled up on the beach, and their spears were deposited in the bushes
around, ready for immediate use; but, although they seemed to suspect our
friendly intentions towards them at first, no disturbance occurred, and some
were prevailed upon to come on board. Their presence forcibly reminded us
of the melancholy fate of the crew of the Charles Eaton; and no doubt they
had come to the southward on a wrecking expedition. They were a much
finer race of men, than those met with on the shores of the continent; their
voices sounded softer, and their language appeared quite different. They
instantly recognized the drawing of a Murray Island canoe, in Flinders'
Voyage, and constantly kept repeating the word toolic, meaning iron, in the
Murray Island language. The lobe of their ears was perforated with a large
piece of bone; and their hair was like that which I have before described as
crisp. I noticed that their spears were all pointed with bone, and that the
shafts in those used for fishing were large, with a coil of line attached, and a
string also connecting the head, which came loose when a porpoise or turtle

was struck; whilst the wood, floating, acted as a drag. At daylight on the
21st we proceeded on our passage.

About four or five miles to the southward of Endeavour River, we passed
some discoloured patches near the shore; and thereabouts a shoal has since
been discovered. Having before expressed an opinion that there was a safe
passage through Endeavour Strait, I resolved to take this opportunity of
setting the question at rest. Before passing between the Possession Isles,
towards the entrance of it, I acquainted the rest of the convoy with my
intentions, to give them the option of taking the chance of a passage with
me, or of proceeding by the ordinary route. They chose the former, and we
accordingly entered the Strait, which we found navigable for vessels
drawing 18 feet, by passing about a mile and a half to the northward of the
Wallis Islands, steering a westerly course. In crossing the ridge extending
off Cape Cornwall, the least water was 3 1/2 fathoms at low tide; North
Wallis Island bearing South 64 degrees East seven miles. There still,
however, appeared to be more water to the southward, which determined
me to examine this passage more minutely on my return from the Gulf. A
course was now held for Booby Island, where we anchored in the evening
(the 23rd).

PASSAGE THROUGH ENDEAVOUR STRAIT.

It was my intention, in order that we might commence our exploration of
the Gulf with a good supply, to have searched for water in Port Lihou, on
the south side of Cook Island, in Endeavour Strait; but the ships in company
being able to supply us the delay was avoided. Since our last visit, the book
at the Post Office, on Booby Island, had been destroyed by some
mischievous visitors, and the box was in a very dilapidated state. We
repaired the latter, and left a new book with a supply of pens and ink.

A ton or two of water was also procured from some holes in the rocks on
the island. I have before spoken of the heaps of stone which Captain King
concluded were erected by seamen; but Dr. Wilson, in his Voyage round the
World, mentions some cairns of stone on certain islands to the northward,
not previously visited by Europeans, and which must have therefore been
the work of natives.

THE PAINTED QUAIL.

Mr. Bynoe was fortunate enough to procure two pigeons of a new species
(Ptilinopus superbus) and of beautiful colours; the breast being dark purple,
the crown of the head red, and the other parts green; besides one specimen
of a bird, of the same genus as one on the Abrolhos, generally called a
quail, but with this difference, that it only lays four eggs, whereas quails lay
fourteen or fifteen. It is known to the colonists as the Painted Quail; and has
been called by Mr. Gould, from the specimen we got on Booby Island,
Haemipodius melinatus.

CHAPTER 2.8. GULF OF CARPENTARIA.

Leave Booby Island.
Eastern shore of Gulf.
Van Diemen's Inlet.
Exploration of.
Party of Natives.
Level country.
Tides.
Visit Bountiful Islands.
Description of them.
Sail for Sweers Island.
Investigator Road.
Natives.
Locusts.
Record of the Investigator's visit.
Dig a well.
Boats explore island and coast to the westward.
Sweers and Bentinck Islands.
Tides.
Take ship over to the main.
Another boat expedition leaves.
Ship proceeds to the head of the Gulf.
Discovery and exploration of Disaster Inlet.
Narrow escape.
Description of Interior.

Wild Fowl.
Explore coast to the eastward.
Inlets.
Discover the Flinders.
The Cuckoo.
Ascent of the river.
Night scene.
Burial tree.
Remarks.
Return to the ship.
Exploration of south-western part of Gulf.
Large inlets discovered.

June 26.

The vessels forming our convoy departed this morning, and soon
disappeared in the western horizon, leaving the Beagle, that seemed
destined to be a solitary roamer, once more alone at anchor under Booby
Island.

On the same evening she was herself pursuing her lonely way towards the
Gulf of Carpentaria, the eastern shore of which we saw on the morning of
the 1st of July. In the afternoon we anchored in 3 1/4 fathoms; the north end
of a very low sandy piece of coast, which we found to be in latitude 16
degrees 13 1/2 minutes South, longitude 9 degrees 10 East of Port
Essington, bearing South 70 degrees East, six miles and a half. From this
place the coast trended South 10 degrees West, and was fringed with
mangroves; a few straggling casuarinas grew near the sandy parts, a feature
which we constantly afterwards found to recur; their tall broom-like shapes
form a remarkable element in the coast scenery of the Gulf.

SINGULAR TIDAL PHENOMENON.

A fruitless attempt was made to visit the shore, which was fronted for the
distance of a mile by a bank of soft mud. We could therefore gain no
information respecting the interior; but from the numerous fires, it appeared
to be thickly inhabited. It was here that we first observed the singular
phenomenon of the tides ebbing and flowing twelve hours.

GULF OF CARPENTARIA.

Next day the coast was examined for fifteen miles to the southward; its
general character has already been given, which renders it unnecessary to
dilate further here. North-east winds now forced us away from the land, and
we did not see it again till the morning of the 3rd; when, finding as much as
four fathoms within two miles and a half of a projection, we named it, in
consequence, Bold Point. It is in latitude 17 degrees 0 minutes South,
longitude 8 degrees 48 minutes East of Port Essington, and is rendered
conspicuous by two clumps of trees. North 23 degrees West two miles from
Bold Point, we observed an opening, and after anchoring the ship as near
the entrance as possible, I left with the whaleboats, accompanied by Messrs.
Forsyth, Fitzmaurice, and Tarrant, to examine it, early in the afternoon. The
view annexed, taken by Lieutenant Gore, just after the boats had shoved off,
will give the reader an excellent idea of the appearance of the south-eastern
shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria, from a distance of only two miles. In this
view, a gull, resting on the back of a sleeping turtle, will attract the attention
of the reader.

ENTRANCE OF VAN DIEMEN'S INLET.
G. Gore, del.

London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846.

Proceeding, we crossed the bar, extending three quarters of a mile off the
mouth of the inlet, on which we found only two feet at low-water. The coast
on each side was sandy, with clumps of trees, and to the northward was
fronted by an extensive flat of sand. The first reaches of the inlet promised
well, having a depth of from 1 1/2 to 3 fathoms, and a width of from two to
three hundred yards; but it ultimately became much narrower, and so
torturous that, after following its windings for twenty-seven miles, we had
only advanced eight miles in a South 60 degrees East direction from the
entrance. It then divided--one branch trending south, and the other east; and
each being only fifteen yards wide and two feet deep, the water quite salt,
and the mangroves on either side, moreover, almost meeting, rendered it
impossible to proceed further. Our hopes had been buoyed up as we
advanced, an impression prevailing that we had discovered a river, from our
finding that at low tide the water was simply brackish. I can only account
for this by supposing that there was an imperceptible drainage of fresh
water through the banks.

The highest part of the country we saw was on the south side of one of the
reaches, six miles from the mouth; but even there the utmost elevation was
only ten feet. This rise was marked by a growth of tolerable-sized eucalypti.
Elsewhere the banks were scarcely three feet above high-water level, and
generally fringed with mangroves, behind which in many places were
extensive clear flats, reaching occasionally the sides of the inlet towards the
upper parts, and forming at that time the resort of large flights of the
bronze-winged pigeon.

In many of the reaches we met with flocks of wild ducks, of the white and
brown, and also of the whistling kind. The birds we had not before seen
were a large dark brown species of rail, so wary that I could never get
within shot of it, and a rather small blackbird with a white crest. A few of
the large species of crane, called the Native Companion, were also seen.
The only kind of fish taken was the common catfish.

PARTY OF NATIVES.