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Title: Building with logs

Author: Clyde P. Fickes
W. Ellis Groben

Release date: April 28, 2019 [eBook #59380]

Language: English

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/59380

Credits: Produced by Tom Cosmas compiled from images made available
by The Internet Archive.

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BUILDING WITH
LOGS ***

BUILDING
with LOGS

Miscellaneous Publication No. 579
U. S. Department of Agriculture
Forest Service

The art of log construction is relatively simple, once a few basic
principles are understood. The pioneers who opened the lands
beyond the eastern seaboard did not have boards with which to build
such shelter as they needed. Logs were so plentiful in the forested
area of our country that, with their resourceful ingenuity, the settlers

built their homes in conformity with those principles of log
construction which prevailed in the countries from which they
migrated. Those principles have remained the same down through the
years.
The pioneer had but an ax for a tool and consequently made only
those articles which could be hewed out of wood. Today there are
many tools available, and to do a first class job of log construction
one must know how to handle the double-bitted or single-bitted ax,
the broadax, saw, adz, chisel, slick, ship auger, and drawknife. In this
bulletin it is assumed that the reader is familiar with the ordinary
frame building methods used where wood is the principal
construction material.

Washington, D. C. Issued September 1945

BUILDING WITH LOGS
By Clyde P. Fickes, Engineer, and W. Ellis Groben, Chief
Architect, Forest Service

Contents
Page Page
Building the foundation 1 Chinking 27
Preparing the logs 1 Chinkless log cabin construction 28
Dimensions of the Milled-log construction 31
2
building Hewing timbers 31
Framing the corners 3 Fireplace framing 31
Round-notch corner 4 Oiling and painting 35

Other log corners 7 The finished structure 35
Door and window jambs 12 Furniture 39
Floor joists 12 Chairs and stools 39
Laying the wall logs 12 Bed and bunk 39
Window and door Chest and buffet 47
14
openings Settee 47
Window and door frames 16 Dining table 49
Roof framing 22 Table, bench, book rack, and wood
50
Shake roofs 23 hod
Partitions 23 Building plans 53
Flooring 24 Additional information 56
Interior wood finishing 25
Calking 25

BUILDING THE FOUNDATION
A building should have a good foundation, and a log structure is no
exception to the rule. For the sake of economy in labor and material it is
sufficient, in some instances, to place small buildings on piers of concrete or
rough native stone, but usually it will be more satisfactory to use continuous
walls of stone masonry or concrete to provide uninterrupted support for the
logs and thus avoid their tendency to sag. These walls, however, should be
provided with small openings for the circulation of air to prevent the wood
from dry rotting. Furthermore, the continuous foundation wall has the
additional advantage of preventing rodents from getting under the building. In
no case should the logs be placed directly upon the ground since wood tends to
decay when in contact with the earth.
The two end walls of the exterior foundation should be higher than the side
walls in order to offset the difference in level of the logs on adjacent walls, the
end-wall logs being half their thickness higher than those on the side walls.
In building a log wall the chief problem is in closing the opening between
each pair of logs. There are various ways of doing this, but only those regarded
as most satisfactory will be described in this publication. The width of such

openings is affected by several factors: (1) The manner of placing the logs
upon each other; (2) the type of corner used where two walls meet; (3) the
openings for doors and windows; and (4) the natural shrinkage of wood in the
process of drying.

PREPARING THE LOGS
The selection of straight, smooth, even-sized logs is the prime
consideration (fig. 1). Top diameters should be as uniform as possible, but as a
rule not less than 10 nor more than 12 inches. (Slightly smaller or larger
dimensions may be used if no others are available.) The taper should be as
slight as possible. For logs longer than 40 feet, the top diameter may be less
than 10 inches in order to avoid an excessive diameter at the large or butt end.

Figure 1.—Starting to build the log
cabin—laying the foundation.

Cedar, pine, fir, and larch, in the order named, are most desirable for log
construction. All knots, limbs, or bumps should be trimmed off carefully when
the log is peeled. It is best to cut the logs in late fall or winter, for two
important reasons: (1) Logs cut in spring or summer peel easier, but crack or
check to an undesirable degree while seasoning. (2) Insect activity is dormant
during the winter months; hence, if the logs are cut and seasoned then, they are
less liable to damage by insects or rot-producing fungi.

Logs should be cut, peeled, and laid on skids well above the ground for at
least 6 months before being placed in the building. This may not always be
possible, but it is a good rule to follow. Logs should be stored in a single deck
with 2 or 3 inches between them to permit complete exposure to the air. Logs
having a sweep or curve should be piled with the curve uppermost so that their
weight will tend to straighten them while they are drying. Where the skidding
space is limited, logs may be double-decked, using poles between tiers.
Unrestricted air circulation materially aids seasoning.
Sort the logs carefully before starting construction, using the better ones in
the front or other conspicuous walls of the building. If the logs are not uniform
in size, the larger ones should be placed at the bottom of the walls.

DIMENSIONS OF THE BUILDING
For practical reasons the dimensions of a log building are the inside
measurements taken from one log to the corresponding log in the opposite
wall. Outside dimensions vary somewhat with the size of the logs, thus
accounting for the use of inside measurements. Where projecting corners are
desired, logs should be at least 6 feet longer than the inside dimensions of the
building. In erecting the walls, the logs should be kept even or plumb on the
inside faces if it is desired to finish the interior with wallboard or plaster.

FRAMING THE CORNERS
The corner is one of the most important aspects of log construction. On it
the appearance and stability of the structure depend. Different types of corner
construction are in use in the United States, each varying in accordance with
local building customs or individual taste.

Figure 2.—The round- Figure 3.—Ranger station,
notch or saddle corner. Gallatin National Forest,
This is an unusually fine Mont., illustrating effective
example of scribing and use of round-notch corners. A,
fitting logs together. The and B, Dwelling under
square-cut logs have yet to construction; C, barn.
be dressed and shaped
with the ax to give them a
pleasing appearance.

Round-Notch Corner
The round-notch, or saddle, corner (fig. 2) is generally considered the most
satisfactory from every standpoint. This type of corner gives the most
distinctive appearance because the logs project sufficiently beyond the corner
not to appear dubbed off (fig. 3). It is a good, self-locking, mechanical joint,
relatively easy to construct, and holds the logs rigidly in place.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 4.—Method of marking saddle
corners.

In cutting the saddle, the material is taken out of the under side of the upper
log without disturbing the top surface of the bottom log. All the moisture thus
drains out at the corner and, consequently, the wood is much less subject to
decay than if other types of corners were used. The shrinkage in the outer area
of the log’s circumference tends to open up the space between the logs. Finally,
in the round-notch corner, one-half of the shrinkage between the logs is
allowed to remain in the corner. The separation, therefore, is not as great as if
each log had been cut down to the heartwood, a disadvantage common to most
other types of corners.
The tools required to make a round-notch or saddle corner are: A pair of
log dogs to hold the log in place, 10- or 12-inch wing dividers with pencil
holder and level-bubble attachment, sharp ax, 2-inch gouge chisel with outside
bevel, crosscut saw, spirit level, and plumb board. The framing of this corner,
described in figure 4, should be relatively easy.
First, the bottom logs should be set in place
on opposite sides of the foundation. Hew a flat
face of 2 to 3 inches in width on the under side of
the log where it rests on the foundation, so that it
will lay in place. Then place the bottom log on
each end-wall and accurately center it so that the
inside face of all four logs is to the exact interior
dimensions of the building. Dog the logs into
place so they will not move while being marked
for the corner notch. The wing divider is now set
for one-half the diameter of the side log. With the
lower leg of the divider resting on the side of the
under log and the other leg, with the level-bubble
Figure 5.—Chopping uppermost, resting against the bottom of the
the notch in a saddle upper log and directly above the lower log, start
corner. moving the divider upward, with a side motion,
so that the lower leg follows the curvature of the
under log. The pencil point of the upper leg
makes a mark on the surface of the upper log
which will be the intersection of the surfaces of the two logs when the notch
has been cut from the upper one. Repeat this operation four times to mark all
four sides of the corner. A little practice will make you adept at keeping the
points of the divider perpendicular to each other.

After the notch has been marked at both ends of the log, turn it over on its
back. It is a good idea to intensify the divider mark with an indelible pencil so
that it will be easily followed. Chop the notch out roughly, as illustrated in
figure 5, then chip down as closely as possible to the mark, supplying the
finishing touches with a gouge chisel. The finished notch should be cupped out
just enough to allow the weight of the log to come on the outside edges, thus
insuring a tight joint.
When the next side log is rolled into place, the dividers should be set apart
for the width of the space between the top of the first and the bottom of the
following log, and the marking repeated as before. If you wish to have the
upper log “ride” the lower one a little, so that an especially tight joint is
obtained, the dividers should be set a little wider apart than the space actually
requires.

Other Log Corners
The dovetail, or box, corner (figs. 6 and 7) is a strong corner, and
considerable experience is required in order to make a neat-looking job. This
type has several undesirable features: (1) The logs are apt to develop a wide
crack because the corner is framed from the part of the log in which the least
shrinkage occurs, and (2) since the logs are hewed down to form the corner, the
wood has a tendency to collect and retain moisture which soon results in decay.
Also, this corner detracts noticeably from the “loggy” appearance so
characteristic and desirable in log structures. The drawings in figure 6 show the
most practical methods of marking and framing the dovetail, or box, corner.
The flat, or plain, tenon corner (fig. 8), is also common. It may be made in
two ways. In one, only the bearing surfaces are framed, while in the other, all
four sides of the tenon are framed flat. The plain tenon corner does not have
the highly desirable feature of being self-locking. However, it is simple to
make and economical, and therefore especially suitable for temporary
structures. The logs must be pinned together, as shown in figure 11. All the
framing can be done on the ground, before the logs are put in place. Carefully
fitted, this makes a neat-looking job.
Directions for constructing the flat, or plain, tenon corner.—Square one
end of log, as in figure 8, at point A, then measure required length and saw the
opposite end square, at B. If the log has any curvature, turn it on the skids until
its back is up. Determine the thickness of the tenons, based upon the average

top and butt diameters of the log. Then take an 18-inch length of board the
same width as the thickness of the tenons, driving a nail through its center and
into the center of the log. Place the spirit level on top of the board and mark
lines on the log at the top and bottom edges. The width of a tenon varies with
the diameter of the logs; 8- to 10-inch diameters will produce 6- to 7-inch wide
tenons.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 6.—Marking and framing the
dovetail, or box, corner.

Figure 7.—Ranger Station, Lolo National
Forest, Mont. Note the meticulous
construction of box corners.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 8.—Framing the flat, or plain,
tenon corner.

Nail a 1 inch by 1 inch cleat on the pattern board to points C and D and
then make saw cuts on each end, cut chip off and smooth the surface. Turn log
over and repeat on the other side. After framing out the sides of the tenon, the
log is ready to be placed on the wall. Some fitting between corners is usually
necessary but, if the logs are fairly straight and smooth, the work will be
minimized.
The upright, or groove-and-tenon, corner (fig. 9) is used to a considerable
extent in the West. It has desirable features from a mechanical standpoint: (1)
The weight of the building is carried on the full length of the logs and does not
rest solely on the corners, as in other types, and (2) it makes a tight wall
because no openings will develop between the logs. Although not difficult to
construct, the upright corner requires considerable mechanical skill and

accuracy. A good carpenter can frame the entire building on the ground before
any logs are placed on the foundation, after which it can be erected in a very
short time. Next to the round-notch corner the upright, or groove-and-tenon
corner, probably has the best appearance.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 9.—Framing the upright, or
groove-and-tenon, corner.

DOOR AND WINDOW JAMBS
Door and window jambs should be framed just like the corners except that
only the back should be grooved. The door side, or face, may be rabbeted or
left smooth so that a separate wood door stop may be nailed in place. If the
logs are reasonably dry, from 3 to 4 inches should be left at each corner for
settlement due to shrinkage; otherwise, more or less space should be allowed,
as conditions require. In about 6 months the cap log will come down and close
this gap. Similar provisions should be made for settlement over door and
window openings.

FLOOR JOISTS
As soon as the first round or tier of logs is laid, the floor joists should be
set in place, notching them into the bottom side logs. If the building has a
continuous masonry foundation, the joists may be set on top of it, as in a frame
building.
In order that the ends of the joists may have sufficient bearing on the wall,
it is necessary either to notch the ends into the side logs or hew the latter off on
the inside. A simple method is to cut the notches in the side logs before they
are rolled into place. Pole joists should be from 4 to 8 inches in diameter and
hewed level on the upper side to provide a solid bearing for nailing the
flooring. Several different ways of framing the floor joists are shown in figure
10.

LAYING THE WALL LOGS
In laying the successive rounds of logs in the walls, several details must be
observed to keep them lined up so that the top logs form a level seat for the
roof framing. The corners should be kept as level as possible as each round is
laid. This can be done by measuring vertically from the top of the floor joists,

from time to time, as a check. A variation of 1 inch in height will not cause a
serious difficulty.
The height of the corner’s is regulated in two ways: (1) By increasing or
decreasing the depth of the notch, and (2) by reversing the top and butt ends of
the logs when laying them in the wall.
The logs should be fitted together as tightly as possible. In the case of
somewhat irregularly surfaced logs, it may be necessary to smooth off certain
portions of the under side of the upper log to secure a tight fit. Only in
exceptional instances, however, should this be done to the top of the lower log.
The face of the logs on the inside of the building must be kept plumb, that
is, in the same vertical plane. An ordinary carpenter’s, or spirit, level may be
used, but a 6- to 8-foot plumb board is considered most satisfactory because of
its greater length.
The logs should be pinned together with a wooden pin or large spike (fig.
11). Spiking is done by boring a ¾-inch hole halfway through the upper log
and continuing with a 7⁄16-inch hole through the bottom half. Then drive a 10-
or 12-inch spike into place, or until it penetrates half the next log below. The
spikes should be staggered in alternate rounds or tiers of logs. If wooden pins
are used, fir or oak logs are preferable. Neither wooden pins nor spikes,
however, offer interference to the settling of the walls.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 10.—Framing floor joists.

The spike method is easier and quicker, and just as satisfactory as the
wooden pin. The logs should be pinned approximately 2 feet from each corner
and at each side of the window and door openings. For small structures, where
the alignment of the walls is not so important, pinning may be eliminated, but
it is essential to align larger buildings accurately in order to prevent individual
logs from springing out of place.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 11.—Pinning logs
together.

Where the use of logs having a decided curve, or sweep, is unavoidable
they should be set in the wall with the bow or back up. Such logs may be
straightened by making enough saw cuts in the upper side of the curved
surface to allow them to straighten out. The cuts should be from one-third to
one-half the depth of the log, or slightly more, if necessary (fig. 12).

Figure 12.—Straightening a curved log.

WINDOW AND DOOR OPENINGS
Early American log structures were characterized by relatively dark
interiors because window openings, designed for protective purposes, were
small and far apart. Since protection is no longer a consideration, window
frames may be of standard size and located where they are most suitable for
adequate day lighting.
As soon as the first round of logs and the floor joists are laid in place, mark
the location of door and window openings on the inside face. Next saw out the
door openings and chop out the notch in the doorsill log to within an inch of
the true or finished line, as shown in figure 13. Leave final cutting of the
openings to the exact dimensions until the window and door frames are to be

placed in position, thus insuring a good finished wood surface. Also, determine
the height of the openings above the floor line and mark them in figures on the
bottom log for reference from time to time. The necessary cuts should be made
in the log directly over each opening before placing it in position. When the
log which carries the window frame is reached, a notch must be made for it as
for the doors.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 13.—Cutting window and door
openings.

To provide the necessary doors and windows, openings must be cut in the
walls after the logs have been placed in position. As soon as a log in the wall is
cut in two, the problem arises of how to hold the loose ends in place. Also, the
doors and windows require the proper kind of frames to insure airtight closure
between the latter and the ends of the wall logs. The most practicable and

satisfactory method is to frame a vertical notch in the ends of the wall logs,
into which can be fitted a spline attached to the back of the jamb or side-pieces
of the door and window frames. This method of framing holds the wall logs in
place, allows them to shrink and settle without hindrance, and makes a
weathertight joint between them and the door and window frames. The vertical
notch in the end of the wall logs may be framed by boring a 2-inch auger hole
in each log as it is laid in place. The hole should be located so that, when the
wall logs are sawed out for the opening, the saw cut passes down through the
edge of the hole nearest the opening. It is then a simple matter to frame the
notch to take the spline. The inside face of the notch can be left rounded and
the spline chamfered to fit. To keep the holes in line from log to log, use the
plumb board illustrated in figure 14.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 14.—Method of marking
openings.

WINDOW AND DOOR FRAMES
There are two ways of making window and door frames—in three pieces
(two side jambs and one head jamb), or in four pieces (two side jambs, one
head jamb, and a sill piece). When a three-piece frame is used, the bottom log
of the opening is cut or shaped to make the window or doorsill and the jamb

pieces are then fitted to the sill. If the jambs are framed from pieces of log
slabbed on two opposite sides, a presentable frame in keeping with the log
character of the structure is obtained. The window or door face of the jamb
pieces may be rabbeted for the windows and doors, respectively, or they may
have separate wooden pieces, known as stops, nailed on. The spline on the
back of the jamb may be rabbeted out, or a 2 inch by 2 inch piece of straight-
grained wood nailed on. The head jamb can be framed in the same way; it does
not require a spline on the back. Each side jamb has a dowel framed on each
end. The bottom dowel fits into a mortise in the sill and the top dowel into a
similar mortise in the head jamb.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 15.—Window frames.
In a four-piece frame, the sill log is cut with a slope, in the customary way,
and the jambs are fitted as for a three-piece frame. Figure 15 illustrates the
installation of three- and four-piece window frames.
When the head jamb or top log over the opening
is reached, the frames are ready for installation. The
opening is now cut out, the sill fashioned, the
vertical spline slot framed, and the head jamb log
cut out to fit over the opening. At this point, the
amount of settlement resulting from the shrinkage of
the wall logs, as they dry out, must be determined
and a corresponding allowance provided in the
opening. This allowance is made between the upper
side of the headpiece of the frame and the bottom of
the log directly over the opening, and should be
from 2½ to 4 inches for a door 6 feet 8 inches to 7
feet in height, or 1½ to 3 inches for an ordinary
double hung window. The log over the opening
should be notched out on the under side so that it
Figure 16.—Log can be dropped in place after the frame has been set
in position.
jamb window
frame. When the type of window or door frame here
described is used, neither outside nor inside casings,
sometimes called wood trim, are required. The logs
selected for the jamb material should be from 2 to 3 inches larger in diameter
than the wall logs, in order to fit properly. Also, they will be much easier to
work if well-seasoned (fig. 16).

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 17.—Typical log-wall section,
taken through window.

If standard mill work frames are used, false side jambs of sawed material,
usually 2-inch planks, should be fitted in the openings to hold the logs in place.
For a wall made of 10-inch logs, a plank 2 inches by 10 inches should be used
for the jambs and the standard frame fitted in place between them after
providing the necessary allowance for the wall logs to shrink or settle. The
head casing ordinarily will cover the space allowed for shrinkage.

Some kind of insulating material which will take compression, such as
crumpled newspapers, asbestos wool fiber, or rock wool, may be used to fill
the space over the head allowed for settlement. Insulating material must be
installed loosely, so as not to take any weight as the headlog gradually settles.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 18.—Various ways of framing
eaves. Despite the fact that sawed rafters, as
shown above, are often used for convenience in
framing the roof, sawed or milled material is
incongruous in appearance in the exterior of log
buildings Hence, pole rafters, hand-made shakes,
and similar hand-riven features are preferred.
For the log-type frame, copper or galvanized steel flashing should be
fastened to the bottom of the cut in the top log, leaving the lower edge of the

flashing free to slide on the face of the log head jamb. As the wall settles, the
bottom of the flashing can be trimmed off if too much of the face of the head
jamb is covered. This makes a weathertight joint and protects the insulating
material with which the shrinkage space has been filled. See figure 17, Head
section.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 19.—Framing log purlins for
shakes.

ROOF FRAMING
Roofs may be framed in several ways, depending upon the kind of material
available and the appearance desired. The framing for a shingle roof, whether
of sawed material or round poles, is done in the same way as that of a frame
building. The top log on the wall may be cut with a flat seat for the rafters to
rest upon, as at Y, in figure 18, A or notched out to receive them as at Z in
figure 18, B. The gable ends may be run up with the logs, which is preferable
for architectural appearance, or framed like the gables of a frame structure, and
then covered with wood siding, shingles, or shakes (fig. 19).
The shingles may be laid over sheathing boards in the usual manner or on
shingle strips placed across the roof rafters, parallel with the ridge and exactly
spaced to receive them, commonly known as “barn-fashion.”
The particular method to be followed in framing the eaves depends largely
upon their projection. Where the effect of a considerable overhang is desired,
an eave purlin log may be used to support the projecting shakes as shown in
figure 19, A. To support 30- to 36-inch long shakes having a 6-inch lap, the log
purlins should be spaced at approximately 24-inch intervals, as in figure 19. In
regions of heavy snows, the eave log may be placed slightly forward to help
support the overhang, or an additional eave log may be placed in position, as
shown in figure 19, B. The gable logs should be run up at the same time as the
roof logs, and both rigidly framed together.

Shake Roofs
It is often desirable to use hand-split shakes for the roof covering. These
are usually made from cedar, but may be of any straight-grained wood, free
from knots, which splits easily. First, the logs are cut in lengths of 30 to 36
inches and then the shakes are split off with a tool called a froe (fig. 20).
After the log cuts are set on end, the froe is held on the upper end of the
block and then struck a blow with a wooden maul which causes a piece of the
block or shake to split off. Being hand-split, the thickness varies somewhat; the
minimum is ½ inch. A roof of thin shingles, lacking sufficient scale, is never as
effective as a rough textured one, using ¾- to 1¼-inch thick shakes, to

harmonize with the sturdy appearance of the
log walls. The width, normally 6 to 8 inches,
is governed by the size of the blocks of wood
and varies accordingly, while the length is
governed by the spacing of the roof logs or
purlins. Shakes are always laid on the purlins
in single courses, lapping the sides 1½ to 2
inches and over-lapping the ends at least 6
inches, as illustrated in figure 19. Nailing is
usually done with six- or eight-penny
galvanized box nails. Copper nails may be
used for greater permanence. A good shake
roof will not leak although from the inside of
the building it may appear to have many
holes. Figure 20.—Splitting
shakes with the froe.
The ordinary, uninteresting, straight-line
effect at the butts may be broken up by
staggering them from 1 to 2 inches, as is
often done with shingles. This method produces an effect more in keeping with
the log walls. Although involving greater care and additional labor it is
preferable, from an architectural point of view, to the more common custom of
laying them to uniformly straight lines.
At the ridge of the roof, where the shingles or shakes intersect, provisions
must be made for weatherproofing. The shingled Boston ridge, comb
intersection, or pole ridge, shown in figure 21 are practical and much more
satisfactory from the standpoint of architectural effect than stock metal ridges,
ridge boards, and other methods.

Figure 21.—Ridge treatments.

PARTITIONS
If the log building is to be divided into several rooms, at least two different
methods may be used to construct the partition walls. If the log construction
plan is to be carried throughout the structure by using interior log-wall
partitions, these should be laid out and framed in, and the door openings cut in
the same manner as previously described for exterior walls. If a log partition
comes at a place in a cross wall where it is not considered desirable to have the
log ends project into the room beyond the opposite face of the wall, they may
be sawed off flush with the face of the cross wall, as shown at X, figure 22,
Plan A. This will not weaken the joint since the logs are both pinned and
locked in place.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 22.—Interior partitions.

Where frame partitions are used, they should be constructed as in a frame
building. A gain or a 3- to 4-inch deep groove should be cut in the log wall into
which the end studding of the frame partition is to be set (fig. 22, Plan B). The
cut should be made in each log before it is placed in the wall. In no case should
the studding at the ends of the partitions be nailed to the log walls which they
intersect in order not to interfere with or be affected by their shrinkage and
settlement.

FLOORING

A subfloor should be laid first using shiplap or sheathing. Over this a
finished floor of such hardwoods as maple or oak, or the harder softwood
species such as Douglas-fir, western larch, or southern pine, may be laid.
Vertical grain and flat grain may be had in both softwood and hardwood, but
the vertical grain shrinks and swells less than the flat, is more uniform in
texture, wears more evenly, and the joints open much less. Finished flooring
consists or tongue-and-groove material of various thicknesses and widths.
Despite a slight tendency to splinter and wear irregularly over a period of
years, plain wide planking of random-width boards makes an appropriate floor
for a log building. An attractive effect may be had by using screws instead of
nails, countersunk to a depth of ½ inch and concealed by inserting false
wooden dowels glued in place as shown in figure 23, B. Keying the boards
together with wood keys, at random along the edges, adds to the attractiveness
of the flooring.

Figure 23.—Flooring. A, Plain tongue and
groove; B, random-width planking.

INTERIOR WOOD FINISHING
Hanging doors and windows, and many other customary details of building
construction should be done in the usual manner in building with logs.
Whenever cupboards or other built-in units are constructed, they must be

framed to be independent or entirely free of the log walls, like the furniture.
However, such fixtures as lavatories may be attached to two adjacent logs
without any subsequent structural complications.

CALKING
When round logs are laid up in a wall there is always an opening between
them unless they are grooved on the under side to saddle the one below, as
described later under chinkless log cabin construction. In exterior walls, this
opening, or crack, must be closed in order to make the structure weathertight.
There are several methods of doing this. If the logs are reasonably straight and
uniform in size and the corners carefully made, the opening between them will
be small, often barely perceptible. When this is the case, the openings should
be filled with some sort of calking compound applied with either a pressure
gun or a trowel (fig. 24).

Figure 24.—Examples of tight joints well
calked. A, Interior calking; B, exterior
calking.

In recent years several kinds of calking material have been put on the
market. They are applied best with a gun having a pressure-release trigger
whereby the calking compound is forced through a nozzle made in various
shapes and sizes to meet different requirements. These calking compounds are
not adversely affected by heat or cold, retain their natural flexibility, and have
an adhesive property which causes them to adhere to the surface to which they
are applied.

A good plastic compound will adhere to the logs under all conditions and
can be patched easily by simply applying more material. A black fiber seal is
not objectionable and, at the same time, gives a practical finish. The seal
should be applied to both sides of the exterior and interior log walls, producing
an almost hermetically sealed building. When applied with a pressure gun
having a ⅜-inch nozzle, 1 gallon will fill about 300 linear feet of opening. If
applied in cold weather, the material should be heated to a temperature of 60°F.

CHINKING
When using logs that are somewhat rough and irregular in shape, the
resulting space between them may be so large that the calking material cannot
be used satisfactorily to fill the opening. In such cases, it will be necessary to
insert “chinking,” which usually is applied to the interior and exterior walls in
one of two ways:
1. Split chinking.—Segments of a log are split out in sizes which fit the
opening and, after being carefully shaped with the ax to make a tight fit, are
securely nailed in position. This kind of chinking requires considerable work
and patience to secure a good appearance.
2. Pole chinking.—Small round poles may be used to fill
the openings (fig. 25). Usually they are cut in sizes and
lengths to fill the opening from wall to wall. This sort of
chinking may be applied rapidly to either inside or outside
walls and makes a neater job than the preceding method. Figure 25.—
Unless the logs are thoroughly seasoned these small poles Pole
sometimes have a tendency to pull away from the nails. chinking.
When the chinking has been completed, the openings will
have been reduced sufficiently in width to allow the calking
material to be applied successfully.
It is always a serious problem in log construction to devise a practical
method for permanently fastening the plaster daubing in place on both inside
and outside walls. In some instances, shingle nails may be driven into the logs
2 to 3 inches apart for the full length of the opening or 2-inch wide strips of

metal lath may be used and the plaster applied to fill it. Cattle hair may be
added to the plaster to increase its adhesive consistency and thereby hold it
more rigidly in place. Sometimes, wood strips are nailed on the lower log to
hold the plaster in position, as shown in figure 26, but they are unsightly.

Figure 26.—Wood
daubing strips.

CHINKLESS LOG CABIN CONSTRUCTION
Chinkless construction, associated with the building of log structures in
Scandinavian countries, eliminates the chinking and mudding so prevalent in
many log buildings. It consists of grooving the under side of every log in each
tier so that it saddles the log beneath, making a close joint for its entire length.
The groove is marked by a tool which, for convenience, may be called a cabin
scribe or a drag (fig. 27).
Directions for chinkless log cabin construction.—-Mark and cut out the
notch just as is done for a round-notch corner. Next, dog the log in place and
scribe, making the additional mark shown by dash line (X, fig. 27). Then, cut to
line and, finally, drop log in position.

The scribe is 12 inches long, made preferably of ⅜-inch square steel or iron
bent in much the same manner as the spring in a steel trap; the two ends are
turned down about 1½ inches like two fingers, diverging to about ¾ of an inch
at the points, and then sharpened with a flat surface on the inside of the point
toward the loop. The loop should be hammered out thin to provide sufficient
flexibility to allow the points to spread or close easily. A ring is welded around
the two halves of the tool which, when slipped up or down, makes it possible
to adjust the points and thereby prevent any further spreading while the tool is
in use. A link from a small chain, placed over the legs before the points are
turned, will serve the same purpose and, to prevent the points from springing
together, a small piece of wood may be forced between them.

Click on image to view larger version

Figure 27.—Chinkless log cabin
construction.
To fit a log, first frame it at the ends and then fit it down to within about 2
inches of the lower log where the opening is the widest It is difficult to do a
good job of scribing when the logs are too close together. The scribe must then
be adjusted at the point where the opening is the widest so that, when holding
the tool parallel to the opening, the lower point of the scribe will ride on the
surface of the bottom log. By exerting sufficient pressure, the upper point will
score the top log. Repeat this operation to score the upper log on the other side.
The corner tenons must be marked likewise. Next, turn the log over, work the
tenons down and then cut a V-shaped groove to the marked lines in the
remaining portion of the log, using a double-bitted ax. This groove should be
cut deep enough along its center to permit the outer edge of the groove to rest
continuously on the lower log. By removing the least amount of wood to make
the smallest possible groove, the closest fit is obtained with the least effort.

Figure 28.—Fine example of milled-log
construction—ranger’s dwelling,
Whitman National Forest, Oreg.
The principle of the scribe is based on parallel lines, and it can readily be
seen that if there is a hump on the lower log there will have to be a gouge in
the upper one. When the work is done carefully, the space remaining is
negligible. Where an airtight wall is desired, a strip of plumber’s oakum should
be laid on the bottom log before the upper log is dropped into place. If this
material is not available, dry moss is a fairly practical substitute.

Milled-Log Construction
Sometimes it is feasible to take advantage of a portable mill to face the logs
on three sides rather than to hew them by hand. The level beds seat the logs so
well that calking is minimized, the smooth interior surfaces permit of easy
finishing, particularly where wood wainscoting or plaster is used, while the
round-log exterior effect is undisturbed, except where the logs project at the
corners. Figure 28 illustrates a structure built in this way.

HEWING TIMBERS
The facing or hewing of round timbers to obtain one or two sides surfaced
flat for framing purposes, as shown in figure 29, requires considerable skill in
the use of the ax and broadax. There are, however, a number of mechanical
aids (fig. 30) which should be used by anyone undertaking log construction in
order to simplify the work as much as possible. The carpenter’s spirit level, the
steel square, and chalk line and chalk are necessary for laying off the lines to
be followed in hewing timbers. In framing logs they should be laid up on skids,
or sawhorses, dogged fast in place with iron dogs, and the dimensions laid off
on each end of the log with the level and square to insure that the lines are
parallel to each other. Then, with the chalk line, carefully snap lines on the side
of the log connecting corresponding points at each end. For squaring the ends
of a log and cutting pole rafters, use the miter box to guide the saw. To measure

lengths accurately the steel tape, or a board pattern cut to the exact length, may
be used.

FIREPLACE FRAMING
The living-room fireplace, invariably the most prominent interior feature,
harmonizes best with a log interior if built of stone and provided with a crude
log shelf. The fireplace itself may be either the traditional masonry type or the
more modern metal-lined one equipped with a heatilator.
The masonry of the fireplace and its chimney should always start on solid
earth, below the frost line, like the foundations of the building itself. Masonry
does not settle, unlike the surrounding log construction. Consequently, it is
recommended that a self-supporting log framing be built around and entirely
free of the masonry of the fireplace and chimney, as illustrated in figure 31.
The opening should be framed in the same way as window and door openings.
The fireplace and chimney masonry should not be erected until the opening has
been framed for it. Upon completion, the intersection between the stone and
wood should be thoroughly calked to make an airtight, weatherproof job. This
method allows the wall logs to settle, because of the unavoidable shrinkage,
without structural failure.

Figure 29.—Framing hewed timbers.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 30.—Mechanical aids in cutting
timbers. Method: Cut both miter boxes at angle
X for ⅓ pitch. Fasten them securely to the floor or
to a log, used as a sawhorse, and space exactly the
required distance apart to insure that all rafters are
cut alike. Then place each rafter in the boxes, back
down if any curvature exists, dog rigidly in place
and saw to the pattern.
Line A represents the exterior wall face and, if
sawed off on line B, parallel with the wall face,
overhang of eave will be 1 foot, 6 inches. Any
desired overhang may be had and sawing
eliminated by fixing the distance C. The

irregularly hewed rafter end is preferable to the
uniform elliptical saw-cut ends. Finally, hew the
upper surface of the rafters to a smooth even
bearing to receive the roof sheathing boards.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 31.—Framing around the
fireplace. Framing logs around fireplace and
chimney varies with the effect desired: (1) By
using an exposed vertical slabbed log and spline,
as at A, with space X, to allow for the shrinkage
settling of the logs above the mantel, or (2) by
using a concealed vertical slabbed log and spline,

as at B, where the masonry is exposed above the
mantel.

Figure 32.—A useful type of modern log
dwelling—ranger station, Gallatin
National Forest, Mont.

In building an ordinary fireplace, the firebox and inner hearth should be
made of firebrick to withstand intense heat and the various parts proportioned
in accordance with standard practice to insure efficient operation.[1]
[1] For this purpose the following publication will be found useful: Farmers'
Bulletin 1889, Fireplaces and Chimneys.

The heatilator is a built-in recirculating steel unit consisting of metal sides
and back to form a heating chamber, adjacent to the fire pit, which draws cold
air through a register at each side near the floor and after the air is heated ejects
it through similar registers above. It should be installed in conformity with the
manufacturer’s directions, taking care to select a stock-size unit suitable for the
dimensions of the fireplace opening and to erect the surrounding masonry
accordingly.

OILING AND PAINTING

After all the openings have been properly calked and the logs brushed
clean, it is often desirable, although not absolutely necessary, to treat the log
surfaces with some sort of preservative material. Logwood oil is excellent for
the exterior. The colorless variety is preferable in most cases but, if some color
is desired, add just enough burnt umber, or raw sienna paste, to give the proper
shade. For interior finish, apply a coat of clear shellac and then one or two
coats of dull varnish. The trim can be treated in a similar manner to preserve
the pleasing effect produced by the natural surface and color of the wood.

THE FINISHED STRUCTURE
Examples of modern log construction are shown in figures 32, 33, and 34.
Early types of log structures are illustrated in figure 35.

Figure 33.—Modern structures showing
effective use of log construction in
recreation buildings on national forests in
Montana. A, Dude ranch; B and C,
recreational and mess hall, Seely Lake.

Figure 34.—Organization camp at Seely
Lake showing log work In greater detail.
A, Entrance wing; B, cabin group. Note
the wedges under porch post to provide
for settling of walls. Wedges are
gradually driven out as necessary.

Figure 35.—Early types of log structures
built by the U. S. Forest Service in the
West. A, Ranger station, Gallatin
National Forest, Mont.; B, ranger’s
dwelling, Nezperce National Forest,
Idaho; C, log cabin in Arizona.

FURNITURE
The matter of interior furnishings is always of great concern to those who
build log cabins. Odds and ends or too many “what-nots” may prove to be
misfits. Pieces of Early American design are perhaps the most appropriate
ready-made furniture, but sturdy, rustic pieces yield the greatest satisfaction.
Many cabin owners have found a great deal of pleasure in making essential
furniture, such as bunks, beds, tables, chairs, settees, and similar items. In the
East, birch is preferred as a material, and in the West, lodgepole pine is most
satisfactory. Other native species, however, will do just as well. In making
furniture it is advisable to remove the bark from the logs because bark collects
insects, causes the wood to deteriorate and eventually falls off, leaving
imperfect, unsightly surfaces. Figures 36 and 37 show types of furniture
suitable for log residences.
For rustic effects, the use of a stain of the following proportions gives a
satisfactory appearance: 2 quarts turpentine, 2 quarts raw linseed oil, and 1 pint
liquid drier, to which add ½ pint of raw sienna, ½ pint of burnt umber, and a
touch of burnt sienna. The top surfaces of tables, buffets, chests, and rawhide
seats should have two coats of spar varnish. Where countersunk screws are
used in connection with a stain finish, insert false wood, dowel-like plugs in
preference to plastic wood to conceal the screwheads.
Simplicity, both in construction and appearance, is the keynote for
producing the most harmonious effects in furniture, in keeping with log
interiors.

Chairs and Stools
Armchairs can be built with well-seasoned lodgepole or eastern pine, or
birch (fig. 38). The cornerpieces should be mortised and tenoned to the frame
and rail and anchored in place with ⅜- by 15-inch lag screws. The arms should
be fastened to the cornerpieces with ⅜- by 5-inch carriage bolts and to the slab
support with ⅜- by 4-inch lag screws. The vertical slab support should be
rigidly secured to the frame with ⅜- by 3-inch carriage bolts. Cushions may be
of the filler type, without springs, and covered with homespun fabric. Use 2-
inch wide heavy canvas strips, securely fastened with furniture tacks, to
support the cushions.

Upright chairs and stools (fig. 39) can be made from the same material as
the armchair. Cross the poles to impale the legs rigidly. The crosspieces of the
chair back should be curved to fit the human back. The joints must be tightly
glued, mortised, and tenoned.

Figure 36.—Furniture suitable for log
cabins—convenient, sturdy, and easy to
make. A, Bed; B, bed and armchair.

Figure 37.—A, Dining table appropriate
for log cabin; B, book rack and hod.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 38.—Plan for making an armchair
suitable for log residence.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 39.—Plan for making an upright
chair and stool.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 40.—Plan for making a double bed for
log residence.

Bed and Bunk
Birch or well-seasoned lodgepole or eastern pine is suitable for making a
bed or bunk. In making a bed (fig. 40) the crosspieces should impale the corner
posts tightly; the joints should be glued and toe-nailed from below. Do not cut
the side or end pieces until the bedspring has been measured and then allow for
a slight play in both directions in setting the angle irons, in order to facilitate
the insertion and removal of the mattress. Use 14- by 3-inch carriage bolts to
fasten the angle irons to the wood frame. Figure 40 is a plan for making a
double bed 5 for a single bed, reduce the width accordingly.
A double-deck bunk is made in much the same way as a bed (fig. 41).

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 41.—Plan for building a double-deck
bunk.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 42.—Plan for making a combination
chest and buffet.

Chest and Buffet
No log residence is complete without furniture for storing clothes. A
combination chest and buffet suitable for log cabins can be made from well-
seasoned lodgepole or eastern pine, tamarack, or birch (fig. 42). The ends,

doors, shelves, and drawer fronts should be cut from No. 2 tongue-and-groove
commercial pine lumber.

Settee
A settee can be made from well-seasoned pine or birch (fig. 43). Join the
corner poles to the slab frame and rail with mortise-and-tenon joints; then
anchor the joints by means of ⅜- by 6 -inch lag screws. Fasten the arms to the
corner poles with ⅜- by 5-inch carriage bolts and to the slab support with ⅜-
by 4-inch lag screws. Use ⅜- by 3-inch carriage bolts to fasten the slab support
to the frame. The 1- by 2-inch hardwood crosspieces should be securely
fastened at the top ends and notched into the legs at the bottom ends, held by
2-inch wood screws, driven into place at an angle. Back slats should be
mortised and tenoned to the rail and frame. The cushions should be the filler
type, without springs if so desired, and covered with homespun fabric.

Figure 43.—Plan for making a living-room
settee.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 44.—Dining table plan.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 45.—Plan for making benches.

Dining Table
Peeled pine or birch is ideal material for building a dining table (fig. 44).
Make a tight saddle joint between B and the legs. Cross poles to impale the
legs tightly. Notch E for the cross poles. Upper surface of C should be slab-
faced and fitted between D and cross poles, all rigidly braced together. Top
pieces of tables should be doweled at places indicated in the drawing with ½-
by 4-inch wood dowels, glued and clamped to insure tight joints. Notch top
pieces A 1-inch deep to receive B and D. Top outside edges of A, C, and E
should be hewed.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 46.—Plan for a book rack.

Table, Bench, Book Rack, and Wood Hod
Well-seasoned lodgepole or eastern pine, tamarack, cedar, or birch are
suitable for benches (fig. 45). The joints should be glued. Countersink any
screws, then conceal the heads with false wooden dowel-like plugs. If the
furniture is to be painted, use plastic wood. A book rack may be made of the
same material used for the bench, except cedar, which is unsuitable (fig. 46).
The sides and bottom shelf should be rabbeted and thoroughly glued. The two
intermediate shelves can be made adjustable by boring 3 holes in each side-
piece 2 inches apart, above and below the position shown for the shelves in
figure 46, into which loose wooden pins may be inserted for their support.
Screw the top in place, countersink screwheads and insert wood cover plugs or

false dowels for concealment where stained finish is used. If painted, plastic
wood may be used.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 47.—Plan for a fireplace wood hod.

A fireplace wood hod (fig. 47) may be made of wood and metal. Use well-
seasoned lodgepole or eastern pine, tamarack, or birch. Make a tight cradle
joint between horizontal and vertical side-pieces, using 14- by 2-inch carriage
bolts except that by 3-inch lag screws should be used for fastening the lower
side-pieces and bottom. Secure the wrought-iron handle to each side toppiece
with 3- by 1½-inch carriage bolts. The wood sides should have hewed edges of
¾ inch minimum thickness.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 48.—Floor plan for a four-room log
residence.

BUILDING PLANS
Selection of the site and preparation of building plans varies with
individual taste. In choosing a location one must consider availability of
transportation, shopping centers, water supply, sewage disposal, electric
facilities, and kindred factors.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 49.—Floor plan for a four-room log
residence with somewhat different orientation
than that shown in figure 48.

Before undertaking construction it may be desirable to consult an architect
or competent builder to make sure that (1) your desires are satisfied with
respect to the necessary accommodations; (2) rules and regulations enforced by
local authorities will be observed; and (3) provisions are made for installing
telephone, electricity, water, and plumbing facilities. Failure to take these
precautions may necessitate costly changes after construction has begun.
Plans for suitable four-room log residences are given in figures 48 and 49,
and for a five-room structure in figure 50. Figure 51 shows the layout of a

United States Forest Service two-room guard cabin adaptable for summer
residence use.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 50.—Floor plan for a five-room log
residence, including three bedrooms, living-
room, kitchen, and two porches.

Click on image to view larger version
Figure 51.—U. S. Forest Service two-room
fireguard cabin adaptable for summer residence
use.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Additional useful information on building log cabins may be obtained from
the following publications:

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
FIREPLACES AND CHIMNEYS. Farmers' Bul.
1889, 52 pp., illus. 1940.

PROTECTION OF LOG CABINS, RUSTIC
WORK, AND UNSEASONED WOOD FROM
INJURIOUS INSECTS. Farmers' Bul. 1582,
20 pp., illus. 1929.

USE OF LOGS AND POLES IN FARM
CONSTRUCTION. Farmers' Bul. 1660, 26
pp., illus. 1931.

OTHER SOURCES
LOG BUILDINGS. Wis. Agr. Col. Ext. Stencil Cir.
158, 39 pp., illus. 1940.

LOG CABIN CONSTRUCTION. A. B. Bowman.
Mich. State Col. Ext. Bul. 222, 54 pp., illus.
1941.

LOG CABINS AND COTTAGES; HOW TO
BUILD AND FURNISH THEM. W. A.
Bruette, ed. 96 pp., illus. New York.

THE REAL LOG CABIN. C. D. Aldrich. 278 pp.,
illus. 1934. New York.

SHELTERS, SHACKS, AND SHANTIES. D. C.
Beard. 243 pp., illus 1932. New York.

U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1954
For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing
Office
Washington 25, D. C. — Price 25 cents

TO KEEP THE TREES GROWING
Here in the United States we are cutting trees faster than
new ones are growing for the future. And because science is
showing us how to use wood better and in new ways we are
likely to want more trees in the future than we use today. In
fact we must double the annual growth of usable wood. This
can’t be done easily or quickly. It will require decades of good
forestry. So we must take steps now—

To protect all our forests well from fire, insects,
and disease;

To stop wasteful and destructive cutting;

To keep plenty of trees of all sizes growing to
replace those we cut;

To restore commercial tree growth on millions
of acres of forests that have been badly
treated or burned;

To give farmers and other small owners more
help in growing, harvesting, and marketing
their tree crops;

To put wild land into public forests when
private owners cannot take care of it or the
public interest calls for special treatment.

Transcriber Notes
All illustrations were moved so as to not split paragraphs.

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