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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Mediæval Military
Architecture in England, Volume 1 (of 2)
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
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will have to check the laws of the country where you are located
before using this eBook.
Title: Mediæval Military Architecture in England, Volume 1 (of 2)
Author: George Thomas Clark
Release date: December 31, 2020 [eBook #64187]
Most recently updated: October 18, 2024
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/64187
Credits: MWS, Robert Tonsing and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images generously made available by The
Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEDIÆVAL
MILITARY ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND, VOLUME 1 (OF 2) ***
Architecture in England, Volume 1 (of 2)
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
will have to check the laws of the country where you are located
before using this eBook.
Title: Mediæval Military Architecture in England, Volume 1 (of 2)
Author: George Thomas Clark
Release date: December 31, 2020 [eBook #64187]
Most recently updated: October 18, 2024
Language: English
Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/64187
Credits: MWS, Robert Tonsing and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images generously made available by The
Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEDIÆVAL
MILITARY ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND, VOLUME 1 (OF 2) ***
Page 4
MEDIÆVAL MILITARY
ARCHITECTURE
IN
ENGLAND.
By G E O . T . C L A R K .
VOL. I.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.
. . . . . Time
Has moulder’d into beauty many a tower,
Which, when it frown’d with all its battlements,
Was only terrible. . . . . —Mason.
LONDON:
WYMAN & SONS, 74–76, GREAT QUEEN STREET,
LINCOLN’S-INN FIELDS, W.C.
1884.
ARCHITECTURE
IN
ENGLAND.
By G E O . T . C L A R K .
VOL. I.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.
. . . . . Time
Has moulder’d into beauty many a tower,
Which, when it frown’d with all its battlements,
Was only terrible. . . . . —Mason.
LONDON:
WYMAN & SONS, 74–76, GREAT QUEEN STREET,
LINCOLN’S-INN FIELDS, W.C.
1884.
Page 5
TO
E. A. FREEMAN, Esq.
THE HISTORIAN OF THE NORMAN CONQUEST,
T H ES E PA PER S,
COLLECTED AND PUBLISHED AT HIS SUGGESTION,
IN THEIR PRESENT FORM,
ARE APPROPRIATELY INSCRIBED.
E. A. FREEMAN, Esq.
THE HISTORIAN OF THE NORMAN CONQUEST,
T H ES E PA PER S,
COLLECTED AND PUBLISHED AT HIS SUGGESTION,
IN THEIR PRESENT FORM,
ARE APPROPRIATELY INSCRIBED.
Page 6
P R E F A C E.
THE articles comprehended in the present volumes were written at very
long intervals of time, some half a century ago, and printed in the
Transactions of various Societies in different and distant counties. Many
also appeared in the Builder newspaper. Each paper was intended to be
complete in itself, and was written with no expectation that they would ever
be collected and reprinted as one work. This I mention to account for, and I
hope in some degree to excuse, the occasioned iteration of certain views
concerning the connexion between the banks and earthworks, the moated
mounds of the ninth century, and the buildings in masonry afterwards
placed upon them,—which the Author was the first to set forth, and which
are explained at length in the Introduction.
The latter and greater part of the work is occupied by minute, and, it is
hoped, generally accurate accounts of most of the principal castles of
England, and of one or two of a typical character in France and Scotland.
The account of Caerphilly was drawn up in 1834. It was, I believe, the first
attempt to treat, in a scientific and accurate manner, the plans and details of
a great mediæval fortress.
My cordial thanks are due to the editors of the various Archæological
Journals in which the original papers appeared, and especially to the late
editor of the Builder, Mr. Godwin. I have also especially to thank an old
friend and school-fellow, Mr. Murray, of Albemarle Street, for leave to
reprint the paper on the Tower of London, and for the use of the woodcuts
with which he so liberally embellished the original in his “Old London.”
To Mr. Freeman my obligations are of a different and less personal
character. Other historians have visited the scenes of events which they
were about to describe, but no one has shown himself so familiar with the
ancient divisions, civil, ecclesiastical, and military, of English ground, and
with the buildings connected with them. His accomplishments as a
THE articles comprehended in the present volumes were written at very
long intervals of time, some half a century ago, and printed in the
Transactions of various Societies in different and distant counties. Many
also appeared in the Builder newspaper. Each paper was intended to be
complete in itself, and was written with no expectation that they would ever
be collected and reprinted as one work. This I mention to account for, and I
hope in some degree to excuse, the occasioned iteration of certain views
concerning the connexion between the banks and earthworks, the moated
mounds of the ninth century, and the buildings in masonry afterwards
placed upon them,—which the Author was the first to set forth, and which
are explained at length in the Introduction.
The latter and greater part of the work is occupied by minute, and, it is
hoped, generally accurate accounts of most of the principal castles of
England, and of one or two of a typical character in France and Scotland.
The account of Caerphilly was drawn up in 1834. It was, I believe, the first
attempt to treat, in a scientific and accurate manner, the plans and details of
a great mediæval fortress.
My cordial thanks are due to the editors of the various Archæological
Journals in which the original papers appeared, and especially to the late
editor of the Builder, Mr. Godwin. I have also especially to thank an old
friend and school-fellow, Mr. Murray, of Albemarle Street, for leave to
reprint the paper on the Tower of London, and for the use of the woodcuts
with which he so liberally embellished the original in his “Old London.”
To Mr. Freeman my obligations are of a different and less personal
character. Other historians have visited the scenes of events which they
were about to describe, but no one has shown himself so familiar with the
ancient divisions, civil, ecclesiastical, and military, of English ground, and
with the buildings connected with them. His accomplishments as a
Page 7
topographer and as a master of mediæval architecture are peculiar to
himself among historians, and materials which in their original form are dry
and uninstructive give, in his hands, weight and substance to some of his
most brilliant sketches. As a collector of some of these materials, I have
often felt surprise and delight at the use to which they have been applied;
and, although my work has been rather that of a quarryman or brickmaker, I
am sometimes led almost to regard myself as sharing in the glory of the
architect.
himself among historians, and materials which in their original form are dry
and uninstructive give, in his hands, weight and substance to some of his
most brilliant sketches. As a collector of some of these materials, I have
often felt surprise and delight at the use to which they have been applied;
and, although my work has been rather that of a quarryman or brickmaker, I
am sometimes led almost to regard myself as sharing in the glory of the
architect.
Page 8
C O N T E N T S O F V O L. I.
CHAPTER.
I. Introduction
II. Earthworks of the Post-Roman and English Periods
III. Of the Castles of England at the Conquest and under the
Conqueror
IV. Of the Political Value of Castles under the Successors of the
Conqueror
V. The Political Influence of Castles in the Reign of Henry II.
VI. The Castles of England and Wales at the latter part of the
Twelfth Century
VII. The same subject continued
VIII. The same subject concluded
IX. The Rectangular Keep of a Norman Castle
X. Of the Shell Keep
XI. Castles of the early English Period
XII. Of the Edwardian or Concentric Castles
CHAPTER.
I. Introduction
II. Earthworks of the Post-Roman and English Periods
III. Of the Castles of England at the Conquest and under the
Conqueror
IV. Of the Political Value of Castles under the Successors of the
Conqueror
V. The Political Influence of Castles in the Reign of Henry II.
VI. The Castles of England and Wales at the latter part of the
Twelfth Century
VII. The same subject continued
VIII. The same subject concluded
IX. The Rectangular Keep of a Norman Castle
X. Of the Shell Keep
XI. Castles of the early English Period
XII. Of the Edwardian or Concentric Castles
Page 9
Alnwick Castle, Northumberland
Arques Castle, near Dieppe
Arundel Castle, Sussex
Barnard Castle
Beaumaris Castle, Anglesey
Bedford Castle
Berkhampstead Castle, Herts
Berkeley Castle, Gloucestershire
Bodiham Castle, Sussex
Borthwick Tower, Midlothian
Bôves Castle
Bowes Castle
Bramber Castle, Sussex
Bridgenorth, Oldbury, and Quatford, Shropshire
Bronllys Tower, Brecknockshire
Brough and Brougham Castles, Westmoreland
Builth Castle, Brecknockshire
Caernarvon Castle
Caerphilly Castle, Glamorgan
Cardiff Castle, Glamorgan
Carlisle Castle
Castell Coch, Glamorgan
Castle Rising, Norfolk
Château-Gaillard, Normandy
Christchurch Castle, Hants
Clifford Castle, Herefordshire
Clitheroe Keep, Lancashire
Clun Castle, Shropshire
Cockermouth Castle, Cumberland
Colchester Castle
Conisborough Castle
Arques Castle, near Dieppe
Arundel Castle, Sussex
Barnard Castle
Beaumaris Castle, Anglesey
Bedford Castle
Berkhampstead Castle, Herts
Berkeley Castle, Gloucestershire
Bodiham Castle, Sussex
Borthwick Tower, Midlothian
Bôves Castle
Bowes Castle
Bramber Castle, Sussex
Bridgenorth, Oldbury, and Quatford, Shropshire
Bronllys Tower, Brecknockshire
Brough and Brougham Castles, Westmoreland
Builth Castle, Brecknockshire
Caernarvon Castle
Caerphilly Castle, Glamorgan
Cardiff Castle, Glamorgan
Carlisle Castle
Castell Coch, Glamorgan
Castle Rising, Norfolk
Château-Gaillard, Normandy
Christchurch Castle, Hants
Clifford Castle, Herefordshire
Clitheroe Keep, Lancashire
Clun Castle, Shropshire
Cockermouth Castle, Cumberland
Colchester Castle
Conisborough Castle
Page 10
ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. I.
Page 11
Alnwick Castle, Plan of
Arques, Castle of, Plan of the
Barnard Castle, Plan of
Ditto The Keep
Beaumaris Castle, Ground Plan
Ditto Entrance
Ditto Bird’s-eye View
Berkhampstead Castle, Plan
Berkeley Castle, Plan
Ditto Keep
Borthwick Tower: Section
Ditto Plan of First-floor and Basement
Bowes Castle, Plan of First Floor and Ground Floor
Bramber Castle, Plan and Section
Bridgenorth Castle, Plan of Keep
Brough Castle, Plan
Brougham Castle, Ground Plan
Ditto Ground Plan of Keep
Ditto Keep, Vertical Section
Ditto Keep, from the South-West
Builth Castle, Ground Plan
Caernarvon Castle, Bird’s-eye View
Ditto Battlements, Eagle Tower
Caerphilly Castle
Ditto Ground Plan
Cardiff Castle, Ground Plan
Carlisle Castle, Plan
Castle Rising, Plan of Keep
Ditto Plan of Upper Floor
Château-Gaillard, Plan
Christchurch Castle, Plan
Arques, Castle of, Plan of the
Barnard Castle, Plan of
Ditto The Keep
Beaumaris Castle, Ground Plan
Ditto Entrance
Ditto Bird’s-eye View
Berkhampstead Castle, Plan
Berkeley Castle, Plan
Ditto Keep
Borthwick Tower: Section
Ditto Plan of First-floor and Basement
Bowes Castle, Plan of First Floor and Ground Floor
Bramber Castle, Plan and Section
Bridgenorth Castle, Plan of Keep
Brough Castle, Plan
Brougham Castle, Ground Plan
Ditto Ground Plan of Keep
Ditto Keep, Vertical Section
Ditto Keep, from the South-West
Builth Castle, Ground Plan
Caernarvon Castle, Bird’s-eye View
Ditto Battlements, Eagle Tower
Caerphilly Castle
Ditto Ground Plan
Cardiff Castle, Ground Plan
Carlisle Castle, Plan
Castle Rising, Plan of Keep
Ditto Plan of Upper Floor
Château-Gaillard, Plan
Christchurch Castle, Plan
Page 12
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTION.
THE art of construction in Europe from the fall of the Roman empire to the
dawn of the Reformation, though of late years much and successfully
investigated, has been approached almost exclusively from its ecclesiastical
side. This was, for many reasons, to be expected. The service of the altar
justified, perhaps required, the highest degree of taste in the design of the
temple, and the utmost richness in its ornamentation. Moreover, the greater
number of our ecclesiastical buildings are still in use, and even the remains
of those that are in decay, being chiefly monastic, are interesting from the
intimate connexion of their foundations and endowments with early piety
and learning, and from the evidence supplied by their records of the descent
of landed property and of the ancestry of the older historic families of the
country.
The coëval military structures exhibit, generally, no such splendours of
design or excellence of execution, nor do they awaken such sympathies in
our breasts. The parish church is the common concern of all who worship
within its walls, or whose dead are laid within its sacred precinct; but the
castle, always a dangerous and unpopular neighbour, and often associated
with local tyranny or the disasters of war, was in most instances ruined or
swept away with the general use of gunpowder, and even where preserved,
its narrow dimensions and inconvenient arrangements, particulars more or
less essential to its value as a place of defence, rendered it, except in a few
instances, unfit for a modern residence, and have thus tended to sever it still
more completely from the current sympathies and interests of humanity.
Nevertheless, there is in these structures, obsolete as they are, or because
they are obsolete, much to attract those who care to know of the life and
customs of former generations. Many of these buildings were the work and
residence of persons who have left their mark upon the history of our
country. Some, as York, Lincoln, Norwich, Dover, Rochester, Chester,
Colchester, Wallingford, have been the seats of Saxon thanes or Danish
jarls, succeeding a Roman or perhaps British occupant; others, as
INTRODUCTION.
THE art of construction in Europe from the fall of the Roman empire to the
dawn of the Reformation, though of late years much and successfully
investigated, has been approached almost exclusively from its ecclesiastical
side. This was, for many reasons, to be expected. The service of the altar
justified, perhaps required, the highest degree of taste in the design of the
temple, and the utmost richness in its ornamentation. Moreover, the greater
number of our ecclesiastical buildings are still in use, and even the remains
of those that are in decay, being chiefly monastic, are interesting from the
intimate connexion of their foundations and endowments with early piety
and learning, and from the evidence supplied by their records of the descent
of landed property and of the ancestry of the older historic families of the
country.
The coëval military structures exhibit, generally, no such splendours of
design or excellence of execution, nor do they awaken such sympathies in
our breasts. The parish church is the common concern of all who worship
within its walls, or whose dead are laid within its sacred precinct; but the
castle, always a dangerous and unpopular neighbour, and often associated
with local tyranny or the disasters of war, was in most instances ruined or
swept away with the general use of gunpowder, and even where preserved,
its narrow dimensions and inconvenient arrangements, particulars more or
less essential to its value as a place of defence, rendered it, except in a few
instances, unfit for a modern residence, and have thus tended to sever it still
more completely from the current sympathies and interests of humanity.
Nevertheless, there is in these structures, obsolete as they are, or because
they are obsolete, much to attract those who care to know of the life and
customs of former generations. Many of these buildings were the work and
residence of persons who have left their mark upon the history of our
country. Some, as York, Lincoln, Norwich, Dover, Rochester, Chester,
Colchester, Wallingford, have been the seats of Saxon thanes or Danish
jarls, succeeding a Roman or perhaps British occupant; others, as
Page 13
Bamborough, Taunton, Sarum, Tutbury, and Hereford, are associated with
the earliest, most celebrated, or most patriotic of our purely English kings;
others, as the Tower, Windsor, Winchester, Berkeley, Pontefract, Newark,
Carisbrook, were the scene of the splendours of our greatest or the miseries
of our most unfortunate monarchs; some, as Oxford, Northampton, Lewes,
Kenilworth, are connected with great constitutional struggles between
prince and subject; some, as Exeter, Bedford, Rochester, Pembroke,
Chepstow, and Raglan, remind us of bloody combats and sieges from the
times of the Conqueror to those of Charles the First. Some castles, as
Sherborne, the Devizes, Malmesbury, Wolvesley, Newark, Farnham,
Norham, and Durham, were constructed by lordly ecclesiastics who brought
the arm of the soldier to support the brain of the priest and statesman; some
again, as Hedingham, Bungay, Axholm, Alnwick, Raby, Tonbridge,
Warwick, Wigmore, Powderham, Goderich, and Helmsley, are intimately
bound up with the great baronial names of De Vere, Bigot, Mowbray, Percy,
Neville, Clare, Beauchamp, Mortimer, Courtenay, Talbot, and De Ros, those
“ancient stocks that so long withstood the waves and weathers of time.”
Ludlow is identified with the fairest creation of Milton’s genius; Caerleon
and Tintadgel glitter bright in mediæval romance; while Shrewsbury,
Chester, the Welsh castles, Carlisle, Newcastle, Prudhoe, Ford, Hermitage,
Jedburgh, Berwick, and a host of subordinate towers and peels, are
celebrated in Marchman’s warfare or Border Minstrelsy, and played a part
in the politic but unjust aggressions of our earlier Henrys and Edwards.
The histories and remains of these fortresses are full of interest to the
antiquary, whether his branch of study be legal, social, architectural, or
military. Almost all the most important of our English castles date, in some
form or other, from remote antiquity, and their associations were of slow
growth, and deeply rooted in many centuries of the national history. Most
were the centres of estates which had become great in the course of many
generations, and for the protection of which they were established; and the
tenure and services of the tenantry had grown up gradually, so that the
castle, or rather the fortified hall, was closely connected with the
institutions, laws, and customs of the estate, or it might be the shire,
wapentake, rape, or hundred, of which it was the defence. Such castles as
Belvoir, Clitheroe, Gloucester, Totnes, Dunster, Hastings, Bramber, and
Tickhill, were the “capita” or chief seats of ancient sokes, honours, and
baronies, having peculiar privileges within their garths and demesnes, with
the earliest, most celebrated, or most patriotic of our purely English kings;
others, as the Tower, Windsor, Winchester, Berkeley, Pontefract, Newark,
Carisbrook, were the scene of the splendours of our greatest or the miseries
of our most unfortunate monarchs; some, as Oxford, Northampton, Lewes,
Kenilworth, are connected with great constitutional struggles between
prince and subject; some, as Exeter, Bedford, Rochester, Pembroke,
Chepstow, and Raglan, remind us of bloody combats and sieges from the
times of the Conqueror to those of Charles the First. Some castles, as
Sherborne, the Devizes, Malmesbury, Wolvesley, Newark, Farnham,
Norham, and Durham, were constructed by lordly ecclesiastics who brought
the arm of the soldier to support the brain of the priest and statesman; some
again, as Hedingham, Bungay, Axholm, Alnwick, Raby, Tonbridge,
Warwick, Wigmore, Powderham, Goderich, and Helmsley, are intimately
bound up with the great baronial names of De Vere, Bigot, Mowbray, Percy,
Neville, Clare, Beauchamp, Mortimer, Courtenay, Talbot, and De Ros, those
“ancient stocks that so long withstood the waves and weathers of time.”
Ludlow is identified with the fairest creation of Milton’s genius; Caerleon
and Tintadgel glitter bright in mediæval romance; while Shrewsbury,
Chester, the Welsh castles, Carlisle, Newcastle, Prudhoe, Ford, Hermitage,
Jedburgh, Berwick, and a host of subordinate towers and peels, are
celebrated in Marchman’s warfare or Border Minstrelsy, and played a part
in the politic but unjust aggressions of our earlier Henrys and Edwards.
The histories and remains of these fortresses are full of interest to the
antiquary, whether his branch of study be legal, social, architectural, or
military. Almost all the most important of our English castles date, in some
form or other, from remote antiquity, and their associations were of slow
growth, and deeply rooted in many centuries of the national history. Most
were the centres of estates which had become great in the course of many
generations, and for the protection of which they were established; and the
tenure and services of the tenantry had grown up gradually, so that the
castle, or rather the fortified hall, was closely connected with the
institutions, laws, and customs of the estate, or it might be the shire,
wapentake, rape, or hundred, of which it was the defence. Such castles as
Belvoir, Clitheroe, Gloucester, Totnes, Dunster, Hastings, Bramber, and
Tickhill, were the “capita” or chief seats of ancient sokes, honours, and
baronies, having peculiar privileges within their garths and demesnes, with
Page 14
manorial dependencies scattered through many counties, and accumulated
in some considerable degree even before the Norman era. Many of the lands
were held, even in Saxon times, by the ancient tenure of military service,
which, reduced into a system under the Norman kings, often took the form
of guarding and keeping in repair some specified part of the lord’s castle, a
tower, gate-house, hall, or wall, to be paid either in person as castle-guard,
or by the commutation known as ward-silver. Something like castle-guard
appears indeed in the history of Norwich castle as early as the seventh
century, and it was common in the tenth. Like the castle of Chester, that of
Durham was the seat of an Earl-Palatine, the subject of the grim humour of
Cœur-de-Lion, who of an aged Bishop made a young Earl, whose
successors, more fortunate than those of their lay brother, preserved their
Earldom and its more than Vice-regal appendages almost unshorn till the
Reformation, and with a splendid remnant of judicial and social power to
our own day; and indeed, even now, though his mitre no longer springs out
of a coronet, nor is his crozier as formerly combined with a sword, and
though the baronial hall has been liberally surrendered for the purposes of
education, the lord of Durham is not altogether wanting in pride of place,
nor reduced, as yet, even to episcopal poverty.
The “Registrum Honoris de Richmond,” a very curious Custumary,
specifies the precise part in that castle that each tenant was to defend. At
Belvoir, Staunton tower, at Berkeley, Thorpe’s tower, are so called because
families of those names were responsible for them, and at Dover, Magminot
and a score of other towers still bear the names of the chief tenants of that
important lordship, and thus preserve the memory of a tenure the substance
of which has long been abolished. The connexion between the military
tenant and his lord was intimate, and much imbued with the ancient
Teutonic equality and independence. The lord held his “aula” for his own
safety and that of his tenants; their mutual support gave power to the one
and security to the others; no man was degraded by such a tenure. The most
powerful barons were almost always also tenants holding fiefs under other
lords, often far their inferiors in rank and power.
It is this ancient history, this connexion with the earliest works of
defence, that gives so great an interest to the older castles. When, in later
days, and under extraordinary circumstances, it suited the king or some
great baron to erect a castle in a new place, the fabric had no root, no
in some considerable degree even before the Norman era. Many of the lands
were held, even in Saxon times, by the ancient tenure of military service,
which, reduced into a system under the Norman kings, often took the form
of guarding and keeping in repair some specified part of the lord’s castle, a
tower, gate-house, hall, or wall, to be paid either in person as castle-guard,
or by the commutation known as ward-silver. Something like castle-guard
appears indeed in the history of Norwich castle as early as the seventh
century, and it was common in the tenth. Like the castle of Chester, that of
Durham was the seat of an Earl-Palatine, the subject of the grim humour of
Cœur-de-Lion, who of an aged Bishop made a young Earl, whose
successors, more fortunate than those of their lay brother, preserved their
Earldom and its more than Vice-regal appendages almost unshorn till the
Reformation, and with a splendid remnant of judicial and social power to
our own day; and indeed, even now, though his mitre no longer springs out
of a coronet, nor is his crozier as formerly combined with a sword, and
though the baronial hall has been liberally surrendered for the purposes of
education, the lord of Durham is not altogether wanting in pride of place,
nor reduced, as yet, even to episcopal poverty.
The “Registrum Honoris de Richmond,” a very curious Custumary,
specifies the precise part in that castle that each tenant was to defend. At
Belvoir, Staunton tower, at Berkeley, Thorpe’s tower, are so called because
families of those names were responsible for them, and at Dover, Magminot
and a score of other towers still bear the names of the chief tenants of that
important lordship, and thus preserve the memory of a tenure the substance
of which has long been abolished. The connexion between the military
tenant and his lord was intimate, and much imbued with the ancient
Teutonic equality and independence. The lord held his “aula” for his own
safety and that of his tenants; their mutual support gave power to the one
and security to the others; no man was degraded by such a tenure. The most
powerful barons were almost always also tenants holding fiefs under other
lords, often far their inferiors in rank and power.
It is this ancient history, this connexion with the earliest works of
defence, that gives so great an interest to the older castles. When, in later
days, and under extraordinary circumstances, it suited the king or some
great baron to erect a castle in a new place, the fabric had no root, no
Page 15
associations. The grand characteristic of an old castle, the mighty
earthwork, was wanting, and its place was ill supplied by masses of
masonry and a ditch of moderate dimensions. No tenants clustered round
the place, to it no manors were attached, no dependents held lands by the
tenure of its defence. Thus Bere, Beaumaris, Caernarvon, Diganwy,
Conway, Harlech, and Caerphilly, grand structures as were most of them,
were mere intrusions upon the soil, and when the need that produced them
ceased, as they represented no private estate, and were the residence of no
great baron, they were left to fall into decay. Not the less are they of great
architectural interest. They are mostly of one date, laid out and constructed
upon one plan. Though intended for military purposes, within the palace
shares with the fortress. The accommodation afforded is ample, the main
apartments are spacious, the ornamentation rich. The inner court,
gatehouses, and hall of Caerphilly are grander than anything of the sort in
Britain.
The castles of a still later period, when built on new sites, were scarcely
Castles in the military sense of the term. They were not posted for the
defence of a March or a threatened district, but for the residence, more or
less secure, of the lord, usually of a newly-acquired estate, very often
purchased with the ransoms of prisoners taken in the French wars. Even
where the castle most predominated, as at Bodiham, built, as Arundel was
largely repaired, with the spoils of war, or at Tattershal, they were rather
palace-castles than castle-palaces, and this was especially the case with
Bolton, Wressil, and Sheriff-Hutton, works of the latter part of the
fourteenth century. In such works the salient towers, loops, embattled
parapets, and bold machicolations, are introduced partly for their
appearance, partly from custom, but scarcely for any military purpose.
To the student of military architecture, or of the art of the defence of
strong places before the introduction of gunpowder, the ground-plans of
defensive works and the details of castellated architecture of every period
are interesting; sometimes they are to be admired for the grandeur of their
earthworks or the enormous strength of their walls; sometimes for their
happily-selected site and the skilful disposition of their arrangements for a
flanking defence; or, as at Arques, Dover, Sarum, and Windsor, for their
subterranean outlets and countermines. Some, as Clitheroe and Peak, were
structures purely military, intended to contain only a captain and a small
earthwork, was wanting, and its place was ill supplied by masses of
masonry and a ditch of moderate dimensions. No tenants clustered round
the place, to it no manors were attached, no dependents held lands by the
tenure of its defence. Thus Bere, Beaumaris, Caernarvon, Diganwy,
Conway, Harlech, and Caerphilly, grand structures as were most of them,
were mere intrusions upon the soil, and when the need that produced them
ceased, as they represented no private estate, and were the residence of no
great baron, they were left to fall into decay. Not the less are they of great
architectural interest. They are mostly of one date, laid out and constructed
upon one plan. Though intended for military purposes, within the palace
shares with the fortress. The accommodation afforded is ample, the main
apartments are spacious, the ornamentation rich. The inner court,
gatehouses, and hall of Caerphilly are grander than anything of the sort in
Britain.
The castles of a still later period, when built on new sites, were scarcely
Castles in the military sense of the term. They were not posted for the
defence of a March or a threatened district, but for the residence, more or
less secure, of the lord, usually of a newly-acquired estate, very often
purchased with the ransoms of prisoners taken in the French wars. Even
where the castle most predominated, as at Bodiham, built, as Arundel was
largely repaired, with the spoils of war, or at Tattershal, they were rather
palace-castles than castle-palaces, and this was especially the case with
Bolton, Wressil, and Sheriff-Hutton, works of the latter part of the
fourteenth century. In such works the salient towers, loops, embattled
parapets, and bold machicolations, are introduced partly for their
appearance, partly from custom, but scarcely for any military purpose.
To the student of military architecture, or of the art of the defence of
strong places before the introduction of gunpowder, the ground-plans of
defensive works and the details of castellated architecture of every period
are interesting; sometimes they are to be admired for the grandeur of their
earthworks or the enormous strength of their walls; sometimes for their
happily-selected site and the skilful disposition of their arrangements for a
flanking defence; or, as at Arques, Dover, Sarum, and Windsor, for their
subterranean outlets and countermines. Some, as Clitheroe and Peak, were
structures purely military, intended to contain only a captain and a small
Page 16
garrison, and provided with scanty accommodation, and quite destitute of
ornament; in others, as Ludlow, Caerphilly, and Beaumaris, the interior
arrangements were on a scale and of a character to accommodate a Royal
Court. Even where the walls are destroyed, there often remain, in the
earthworks, traces of a much earlier people than the Normans, a people
who, as at Old Sarum, Castle-acre, Marlborough, Clare, Tonbridge, and the
Devizes, occupied the ground with bank, ditch, and palisade, long before
native skill had attained to the construction of wall or tower. Finally,
although the stern necessities of war did not admit of the banded shafts,
lofty vault, or woven window-tracery of Tintern, or Fountains, or many a
less distinguished church, the ornamentation of the richer castles, as Dover,
Rochester, Hedingham, Newcastle, Knaresborough, Castle Rising, and
Coningsborough, is marked by a chastened fitness peculiar to such works;
and of the ruder and less ornate castles, the ruins of very many present a
savage grandeur which few who have visited Caerphilly, Harlech, or
Scarborough, can fail to appreciate; any more than that union of strength
with beauty so conspicuous in Chepstow, Raglan, and Ludlow, which,
enhanced by an illustrious history, attains its highest perfection in Warwick.
The history of such castles as are connected with public events is seldom
difficult to trace. They are mentioned by the ancient chroniclers, and their
repairs and various particulars concerning them are often entered on the
Pipe rolls, and in other of the records of the realm. About a score, such as
Arundel, Bamborough, Taunton, Wigmore, and Hereford, are named in the
Saxon annals, and in charters of the eighth and following centuries; and
others, though unnamed in these authorities, may from their general
similarity safely be attributed to the same people and period. The castles on
the Welsh Marches, as Ludlow, Montgomery, Chester, Rhuddlan, Cardiff,
Chepstow, and Pembroke, had their special jurisdictions; their courts of law
and of record; their chancellor, chancery, and official seal; the lord’s
“Vicecomes” exercised powers of pit and gallows, and his court passed
fines and recoveries, and other early instruments for the conveyance of
land. In the northern Marches such castles as Norham, Prudhoe,
Cockermouth, Alnwick, Naworth, Caerlaverock, and Home, constructed for
the defence of an exposed frontier or a debatable district, the home of those
who lived by “snaffle, spur, and spear,” are commemorated in the records of
either country. Others were originally royal castles, as Dover, Canterbury,
Winchester, London, Nottingham, and York; or, as Kenilworth, Bridgenorth,
ornament; in others, as Ludlow, Caerphilly, and Beaumaris, the interior
arrangements were on a scale and of a character to accommodate a Royal
Court. Even where the walls are destroyed, there often remain, in the
earthworks, traces of a much earlier people than the Normans, a people
who, as at Old Sarum, Castle-acre, Marlborough, Clare, Tonbridge, and the
Devizes, occupied the ground with bank, ditch, and palisade, long before
native skill had attained to the construction of wall or tower. Finally,
although the stern necessities of war did not admit of the banded shafts,
lofty vault, or woven window-tracery of Tintern, or Fountains, or many a
less distinguished church, the ornamentation of the richer castles, as Dover,
Rochester, Hedingham, Newcastle, Knaresborough, Castle Rising, and
Coningsborough, is marked by a chastened fitness peculiar to such works;
and of the ruder and less ornate castles, the ruins of very many present a
savage grandeur which few who have visited Caerphilly, Harlech, or
Scarborough, can fail to appreciate; any more than that union of strength
with beauty so conspicuous in Chepstow, Raglan, and Ludlow, which,
enhanced by an illustrious history, attains its highest perfection in Warwick.
The history of such castles as are connected with public events is seldom
difficult to trace. They are mentioned by the ancient chroniclers, and their
repairs and various particulars concerning them are often entered on the
Pipe rolls, and in other of the records of the realm. About a score, such as
Arundel, Bamborough, Taunton, Wigmore, and Hereford, are named in the
Saxon annals, and in charters of the eighth and following centuries; and
others, though unnamed in these authorities, may from their general
similarity safely be attributed to the same people and period. The castles on
the Welsh Marches, as Ludlow, Montgomery, Chester, Rhuddlan, Cardiff,
Chepstow, and Pembroke, had their special jurisdictions; their courts of law
and of record; their chancellor, chancery, and official seal; the lord’s
“Vicecomes” exercised powers of pit and gallows, and his court passed
fines and recoveries, and other early instruments for the conveyance of
land. In the northern Marches such castles as Norham, Prudhoe,
Cockermouth, Alnwick, Naworth, Caerlaverock, and Home, constructed for
the defence of an exposed frontier or a debatable district, the home of those
who lived by “snaffle, spur, and spear,” are commemorated in the records of
either country. Others were originally royal castles, as Dover, Canterbury,
Winchester, London, Nottingham, and York; or, as Kenilworth, Bridgenorth,
Page 17
and Rochester, fell by escheat or forfeiture into the hands of the crown, and
so were maintained at the public expense, and the cost of their repairs
charged in the sheriffs’ accounts of each county.
However complete, and it is usually much the reverse, may be the history
of a castle, any knowledge we may desire as to its particulars greatly
depends upon what may remain of the structure, either in masonry or
earthworks, and to understand these the first thing necessary is a plan, and
this is just what is wanting in most guides or handbooks of castles. With a
good plan not only the age and much of the details of any castle can be
ascertained, but sometimes the work recorded in the Pipe or Fabric rolls
may be recognised. Original plans indeed there are none; no doubt the
military architects, like their ecclesiastical brethren, drew and worked from
designs and plans, but these have not been preserved. No such thing is
known to exist as an original design or a working drawing of a Norman or
even an Edwardian castle. In ecclesiastical researches, from the known
uniformity of the arrangements, this want is scarcely felt, but the plan and
details of a castle vary with the disposition of the ground or the caprice of
the builder, and although a hall, a kitchen, a chapel, a well, and a barrack
are indispensable features in a castle, these parts have nothing of the
regularity of position of a nave or choir, a cloister, a chapter-house, or a
refectory. Nevertheless, great as is the variety in both the plans and details
of castles even of the same age, their architects and engineers worked by
certain rules, so that if these be studied a clue will be obtained to the age of
the work executed. The dimensions, plan, and profile of the earthworks, the
presence, absence, or figure of the keep, the thickness of the walls, the plan,
figure, proportion and position of the mural towers, the character of the
entrance, the material employed, and the particulars of the masonry, all, if
carefully observed, afford a clue to the date of the building or of some of its
parts, so that as a general proposition, a Norman castle may be known from
one of the early English period, or from those of the first or second Edward,
and still more readily from those built in the reign of Richard the Second.
What these rules are, in what these differences consist, will appear further
on.
Mediæval architecture has only been scientifically studied during the last
forty or fifty years, and military architecture for a still shorter period.
Rickman, who first taught us to read the date of a building in its details, was
so were maintained at the public expense, and the cost of their repairs
charged in the sheriffs’ accounts of each county.
However complete, and it is usually much the reverse, may be the history
of a castle, any knowledge we may desire as to its particulars greatly
depends upon what may remain of the structure, either in masonry or
earthworks, and to understand these the first thing necessary is a plan, and
this is just what is wanting in most guides or handbooks of castles. With a
good plan not only the age and much of the details of any castle can be
ascertained, but sometimes the work recorded in the Pipe or Fabric rolls
may be recognised. Original plans indeed there are none; no doubt the
military architects, like their ecclesiastical brethren, drew and worked from
designs and plans, but these have not been preserved. No such thing is
known to exist as an original design or a working drawing of a Norman or
even an Edwardian castle. In ecclesiastical researches, from the known
uniformity of the arrangements, this want is scarcely felt, but the plan and
details of a castle vary with the disposition of the ground or the caprice of
the builder, and although a hall, a kitchen, a chapel, a well, and a barrack
are indispensable features in a castle, these parts have nothing of the
regularity of position of a nave or choir, a cloister, a chapter-house, or a
refectory. Nevertheless, great as is the variety in both the plans and details
of castles even of the same age, their architects and engineers worked by
certain rules, so that if these be studied a clue will be obtained to the age of
the work executed. The dimensions, plan, and profile of the earthworks, the
presence, absence, or figure of the keep, the thickness of the walls, the plan,
figure, proportion and position of the mural towers, the character of the
entrance, the material employed, and the particulars of the masonry, all, if
carefully observed, afford a clue to the date of the building or of some of its
parts, so that as a general proposition, a Norman castle may be known from
one of the early English period, or from those of the first or second Edward,
and still more readily from those built in the reign of Richard the Second.
What these rules are, in what these differences consist, will appear further
on.
Mediæval architecture has only been scientifically studied during the last
forty or fifty years, and military architecture for a still shorter period.
Rickman, who first taught us to read the date of a building in its details, was
Page 18
induced to turn his attention to architecture by the advice of Mr. Blore, who
died but the other day.
But Rickman, a member of the Society of Friends, scarcely notices
castles, and they have by no means shared in the flood of light directed by
Willis upon our cathedrals. Rickman’s rules, however, apply as much to one
class of buildings as to the other. What has been done, and what has to be
done, towards a history of the architecture of castles, though aided by
contemporary records and especially by sheriffs’ accounts and Fabric rolls,
has been mainly attained by attention to the internal evidence afforded by
the buildings themselves and their earthworks. Even where the castle is a
ruin, where the ashlar casing has been stripped off, and little left but the
rubble and concrete of the interior of the walls, as at Bramber, Saffron-
Walden, and Thurnham, and the disintegrating effect of the weather has had
full play, it is not impossible, nor very often difficult, to detect the general
age of the several parts of the building by the thickness of the walls and the
character of the materials and workmanship, as well as by the outline of the
works. The absence of ornament and the general removal of window-
dressings and door-cases often, it is true, render the absolute date difficult to
discover, but even then, the general figure of the openings, the rough
contour of the arches, the position and proportion of the buttresses may be
detected, and a tolerably safe conclusion formed. Perhaps, on the whole, the
greatest difficulties the military antiquary has to contend with are those
where, as at Norwich, Lancaster, York, Oxford, Caermarthen, or
Haverfordwest, the building is converted into a gaol, or where, as at
Appleby and Chilham, it is part of or attached to a modern residence.
Warwick, so remarkable on many accounts, is especially so for the skilful
manner in which it has been made suitable for modern habitation without
materially obscuring its ancient parts, and this merit may be claimed for
Tamworth, and perhaps for Raby.
Our county historians are often diffuse upon the descent of a castelry, and
the particulars of its area and tenures, but their descriptions of the buildings
are seldom intelligible. Even Surtees, so distinguished for the wealth and
lucidity of his style, whose history of Durham contains, entombed in folio,
chapters that in a more accessible form would have met with far more than
antiquarian attention, never attempts scientific description. Hunter, whose
histories of Hallamshire and of the Deanery of Doncaster are perfect as
died but the other day.
But Rickman, a member of the Society of Friends, scarcely notices
castles, and they have by no means shared in the flood of light directed by
Willis upon our cathedrals. Rickman’s rules, however, apply as much to one
class of buildings as to the other. What has been done, and what has to be
done, towards a history of the architecture of castles, though aided by
contemporary records and especially by sheriffs’ accounts and Fabric rolls,
has been mainly attained by attention to the internal evidence afforded by
the buildings themselves and their earthworks. Even where the castle is a
ruin, where the ashlar casing has been stripped off, and little left but the
rubble and concrete of the interior of the walls, as at Bramber, Saffron-
Walden, and Thurnham, and the disintegrating effect of the weather has had
full play, it is not impossible, nor very often difficult, to detect the general
age of the several parts of the building by the thickness of the walls and the
character of the materials and workmanship, as well as by the outline of the
works. The absence of ornament and the general removal of window-
dressings and door-cases often, it is true, render the absolute date difficult to
discover, but even then, the general figure of the openings, the rough
contour of the arches, the position and proportion of the buttresses may be
detected, and a tolerably safe conclusion formed. Perhaps, on the whole, the
greatest difficulties the military antiquary has to contend with are those
where, as at Norwich, Lancaster, York, Oxford, Caermarthen, or
Haverfordwest, the building is converted into a gaol, or where, as at
Appleby and Chilham, it is part of or attached to a modern residence.
Warwick, so remarkable on many accounts, is especially so for the skilful
manner in which it has been made suitable for modern habitation without
materially obscuring its ancient parts, and this merit may be claimed for
Tamworth, and perhaps for Raby.
Our county historians are often diffuse upon the descent of a castelry, and
the particulars of its area and tenures, but their descriptions of the buildings
are seldom intelligible. Even Surtees, so distinguished for the wealth and
lucidity of his style, whose history of Durham contains, entombed in folio,
chapters that in a more accessible form would have met with far more than
antiquarian attention, never attempts scientific description. Hunter, whose
histories of Hallamshire and of the Deanery of Doncaster are perfect as
Page 19
records of the descent of families and property, is not at home in
architectural detail; and even Whitaker, who, with Hunter, was quite aware
of the interest which attaches to earthworks, gives plans of but few of them,
and says very little about the details of the castles. To come down to the
latest period, even Raine, Hodgson, and Eyton, in their histories of Durham,
Northumberland, and Salop, so copious and so accurate in all matters of
record, pass by with but short notice the various earthworks and castles in
which those counties are so rich, and the details of which would be so
valuable. We look in vain in the pages of these writers for any general
conclusions as to the age, style, and points of resemblance or difference
between these works, points which certainly fall within the province of the
topographer.
The great work of King, the “Munimenta Antiqua,” three-quarters of a
century or more older than most of the above, and full of absurd theories,
misplaced learning, and fanciful and incorrect descriptions, recognises the
importance of plans and details, and although those given with great show
of accuracy are often very incorrect, they are worth a good deal, and with
all its absurdities the book is on the whole valuable.
The “Vetusta Monumenta,” a work of the same school and period,
includes a few castles, and gives plans and sections of two, the Tower and
Hedingham, correctly, and in great detail. Unfortunately, these large and
needlessly expensive plates are accompanied by no proper descriptions. The
voluminous works of the industrious Britton include very few castles, but
what there are, as Rochester, Kenilworth, and Castle Rising, are drawn and
planned with extreme accuracy. The drawings of Grose and the brothers
Buck serve to show the condition of many English castles a century ago,
though the descriptions of Grose are poor, and his drawings are by no
means clear. Buck’s perspective is very incorrect, but this allows of the
bringing into view more of a building than can really be seen at once, which
has its advantages.
Since the rise, during the last twenty years, of numerous county
archæological societies, castles have received more attention; but no
distinct work has appeared upon English castles, though many of the most
remarkable are noticed by Mr. Parker in his excellent works on domestic
architecture. More recently has appeared the book of the late Mr. Wykeham
Martin upon his ancestral castle of Ledes, a work not only well illustrated
architectural detail; and even Whitaker, who, with Hunter, was quite aware
of the interest which attaches to earthworks, gives plans of but few of them,
and says very little about the details of the castles. To come down to the
latest period, even Raine, Hodgson, and Eyton, in their histories of Durham,
Northumberland, and Salop, so copious and so accurate in all matters of
record, pass by with but short notice the various earthworks and castles in
which those counties are so rich, and the details of which would be so
valuable. We look in vain in the pages of these writers for any general
conclusions as to the age, style, and points of resemblance or difference
between these works, points which certainly fall within the province of the
topographer.
The great work of King, the “Munimenta Antiqua,” three-quarters of a
century or more older than most of the above, and full of absurd theories,
misplaced learning, and fanciful and incorrect descriptions, recognises the
importance of plans and details, and although those given with great show
of accuracy are often very incorrect, they are worth a good deal, and with
all its absurdities the book is on the whole valuable.
The “Vetusta Monumenta,” a work of the same school and period,
includes a few castles, and gives plans and sections of two, the Tower and
Hedingham, correctly, and in great detail. Unfortunately, these large and
needlessly expensive plates are accompanied by no proper descriptions. The
voluminous works of the industrious Britton include very few castles, but
what there are, as Rochester, Kenilworth, and Castle Rising, are drawn and
planned with extreme accuracy. The drawings of Grose and the brothers
Buck serve to show the condition of many English castles a century ago,
though the descriptions of Grose are poor, and his drawings are by no
means clear. Buck’s perspective is very incorrect, but this allows of the
bringing into view more of a building than can really be seen at once, which
has its advantages.
Since the rise, during the last twenty years, of numerous county
archæological societies, castles have received more attention; but no
distinct work has appeared upon English castles, though many of the most
remarkable are noticed by Mr. Parker in his excellent works on domestic
architecture. More recently has appeared the book of the late Mr. Wykeham
Martin upon his ancestral castle of Ledes, a work not only well illustrated
Page 20
and furnished with an excellent ground-plan, but in which the architecture
and arrangements of the fortress are treated in a scientific manner, and his
conclusions supported, in many instances, by original documents.
England contains many curious and some grand examples of military
architecture; but that insular position and those industrious habits which
have given her internal peace have not been favourable to the erection of
fortresses of the larger class: for these we must pass to the Continent, and
especially to France. In France not only were the works of imperial Rome
of a grand and substantial character, but they were adopted and employed
by the people after the fall of the empire, and both Franks and Visigoths,
unlike our English Saxons, practised the arts of attack and defence upon
Roman principles, and remodelled the older works to meet the later
circumstances of the period. In the southern provinces, especially, are still
to be found castles and fortified towns such as Tholouse, Narbonne,
Beziers, and Carcassonne, where the old Roman circumvallation has been
preserved, and may still be recognised amidst the additions and alterations
of succeeding ages.
Like the Romans, their successors made use of earthworks and of timber
both for attack and defence, and for permanent works employed masonry of
a very Roman character. Such accounts as have descended to us of the great
sieges of the Middle Ages show that the machines and methods in use were
those handed down by tradition from Rome, many of them being such as
Cæsar employed, while others were the same as those sculptured on the
column of Trajan or described by Vegetius. Mines and countermines,
battering-rams, balistæ, catapults, the cat, the mouse, the sow, and a large
family of devices for reaching under cover the wall to be undermined, were
all derived from Roman warfare, and were employed, if not with the skill
and discipline of Rome, with a degree of vigour and boldness that was
scarcely less effective.
Moreover, the political circumstances of France were eminently
favourable to the construction of great military works. The great duchies
and scarcely subordinate kingdoms which afterwards composed the French
monarchy were, in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, independent states,
each with an open frontier needing defences, and with a brave and wealthy
baronage very able and very willing to supply them. Hence France contains
within its present borders not only cities of Roman origin and celebrated
and arrangements of the fortress are treated in a scientific manner, and his
conclusions supported, in many instances, by original documents.
England contains many curious and some grand examples of military
architecture; but that insular position and those industrious habits which
have given her internal peace have not been favourable to the erection of
fortresses of the larger class: for these we must pass to the Continent, and
especially to France. In France not only were the works of imperial Rome
of a grand and substantial character, but they were adopted and employed
by the people after the fall of the empire, and both Franks and Visigoths,
unlike our English Saxons, practised the arts of attack and defence upon
Roman principles, and remodelled the older works to meet the later
circumstances of the period. In the southern provinces, especially, are still
to be found castles and fortified towns such as Tholouse, Narbonne,
Beziers, and Carcassonne, where the old Roman circumvallation has been
preserved, and may still be recognised amidst the additions and alterations
of succeeding ages.
Like the Romans, their successors made use of earthworks and of timber
both for attack and defence, and for permanent works employed masonry of
a very Roman character. Such accounts as have descended to us of the great
sieges of the Middle Ages show that the machines and methods in use were
those handed down by tradition from Rome, many of them being such as
Cæsar employed, while others were the same as those sculptured on the
column of Trajan or described by Vegetius. Mines and countermines,
battering-rams, balistæ, catapults, the cat, the mouse, the sow, and a large
family of devices for reaching under cover the wall to be undermined, were
all derived from Roman warfare, and were employed, if not with the skill
and discipline of Rome, with a degree of vigour and boldness that was
scarcely less effective.
Moreover, the political circumstances of France were eminently
favourable to the construction of great military works. The great duchies
and scarcely subordinate kingdoms which afterwards composed the French
monarchy were, in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, independent states,
each with an open frontier needing defences, and with a brave and wealthy
baronage very able and very willing to supply them. Hence France contains
within its present borders not only cities of Roman origin and celebrated
Page 21
under the immediate successors of the Romans, but the remains of the
castle-palaces of the dukes and barons of Normandy and Brittany; of
Burgundy, Provence, Navarre, Flanders, Anjou, and many a lesser province;
and he is but little qualified to judge of castles or of fortified mediæval
cities who is unacquainted with Arques, or Falaise, or Loches; Coucy or
Château-Gaillard, or Etampes; Carcassonne, Avignon, Villeneuve, or
Beaucaire, or the splendid restoration of Pierrefonds.
The possession of these great works has drawn forth, though tardily, a
few writers capable of comprehending and describing them. Those in
Normandy are the subject of the well-known lectures of M. de Caumont,
delivered at Caen in 1830 and published in 1835. They contain a very
interesting section on military works, with plans and elevations which,
though roughly executed and on a small scale, are valuable; his descriptions
are clear, and his conclusions generally sound. Others, before M. de
Caumont, have described particular structures, but he seems to have been
the first to attempt a general classification based upon a critical examination
of the examples in his own province.
Of detached writings, monographs, may be mentioned those of M.
Deville upon Château-Gaillard, Tancarville, and Arques, published in 1828,
1834, and 1839. The first is particularly strong in its history of the castle
and of its famous siege, and the last excellent both in history and
description; and all three are accompanied by clear ground-plans.
The great work of Viollet-le-Duc, though not confined to military
architecture, contains by much the most comprehensive, as well as the most
detailed, account of French castles yet given to the world; and as, besides
the general resemblance between all European castles, those of the eleventh
and twelfth centuries in Normandy are almost counterparts of those of the
same period, and often built by the same nobles or their sons, in England, it
has deservedly become our chief authority. Also the castles of France, being
on a larger scale and often more perfect than our own, M. Le-Duc has been
able to explain more satisfactorily than could have been done here, certain
details, such, for example, as those of the gateway, drawbridge, and
portcullis, and especially of the timber superstructures for vertical defence,
known as “hourdes” and “bretasches,” terms represented with us by the
“hoard” of a London builder, and the “brattice” of the mining engineer. M.
Le-Duc’s work has given occasion and matter for a small volume from the
castle-palaces of the dukes and barons of Normandy and Brittany; of
Burgundy, Provence, Navarre, Flanders, Anjou, and many a lesser province;
and he is but little qualified to judge of castles or of fortified mediæval
cities who is unacquainted with Arques, or Falaise, or Loches; Coucy or
Château-Gaillard, or Etampes; Carcassonne, Avignon, Villeneuve, or
Beaucaire, or the splendid restoration of Pierrefonds.
The possession of these great works has drawn forth, though tardily, a
few writers capable of comprehending and describing them. Those in
Normandy are the subject of the well-known lectures of M. de Caumont,
delivered at Caen in 1830 and published in 1835. They contain a very
interesting section on military works, with plans and elevations which,
though roughly executed and on a small scale, are valuable; his descriptions
are clear, and his conclusions generally sound. Others, before M. de
Caumont, have described particular structures, but he seems to have been
the first to attempt a general classification based upon a critical examination
of the examples in his own province.
Of detached writings, monographs, may be mentioned those of M.
Deville upon Château-Gaillard, Tancarville, and Arques, published in 1828,
1834, and 1839. The first is particularly strong in its history of the castle
and of its famous siege, and the last excellent both in history and
description; and all three are accompanied by clear ground-plans.
The great work of Viollet-le-Duc, though not confined to military
architecture, contains by much the most comprehensive, as well as the most
detailed, account of French castles yet given to the world; and as, besides
the general resemblance between all European castles, those of the eleventh
and twelfth centuries in Normandy are almost counterparts of those of the
same period, and often built by the same nobles or their sons, in England, it
has deservedly become our chief authority. Also the castles of France, being
on a larger scale and often more perfect than our own, M. Le-Duc has been
able to explain more satisfactorily than could have been done here, certain
details, such, for example, as those of the gateway, drawbridge, and
portcullis, and especially of the timber superstructures for vertical defence,
known as “hourdes” and “bretasches,” terms represented with us by the
“hoard” of a London builder, and the “brattice” of the mining engineer. M.
Le-Duc’s work has given occasion and matter for a small volume from the
Page 22
press of Mr. Parker. There is besides a work in German, “Geschichte der
Militär-Architectur des fruhern Mittelalters,” by M. G. H. Krieg von
Hochfelden, which contains much of great interest concerning German
castles, as well as a general notice of those in France and England.
Although military architecture in England, setting aside the works of the
Romans, begins with the age, and probably with the actual period, of the
Norman Conquest, the country contains numerous examples of military
works of an earlier, and in many instances no doubt of a very remote, time.
These works, executed in earth, or at least of which no parts but banks,
mounds, and ditches remain, are sometimes of great size, but usually of
extreme simplicity of plan. Of most of them, the Roman again excepted, the
relative age is all that we can hope to ascertain, but even from this
knowledge we are at present very far; and although it is probable that the
simple encampments, of irregular outline, and on high ground, are the work
of the earliest inhabitants of Britain, and those of circular or more regular
outline, having higher banks, and placed in more accessible positions, are
the works of the post-Roman period, yet the outlines are often so mixed,
and the arrangement of the mounds and banks so alike, that it cannot always
certainly be said what is sepulchral, what merely commemorative or
monumental, and what military; what the works of the earlier or later Celts,
what of the Saxons, what of their Danish conquerors, and sometimes even,
though not often, what is Roman.
The particulars of these various earthworks, so different in plan and
extending over so many centuries, deserve a separate notice, and therefore,
though originally intended to have been here treated of, it seemed more
prudent to lay this branch of the subject aside for the present, in the hope
that it may be taken up when the completion of the larger scale Ordnance
Maps shall afford more accurate and copious data than now can
conveniently be procured. The subject, in fact, should have entered into the
instructions given to the officers of the Survey, by which means we should
at least have avoided the obscure and sometimes contradictory system of
nomenclature by which these works have been designated at different
periods of this great, and in most respects admirable, national undertaking.
But, although it be expedient here to pass by in silence those earthworks,
irregular, rectangular, or concentric, which have no direct connexion with
the subsequent castles of masonry, and therefore with military architecture,
Militär-Architectur des fruhern Mittelalters,” by M. G. H. Krieg von
Hochfelden, which contains much of great interest concerning German
castles, as well as a general notice of those in France and England.
Although military architecture in England, setting aside the works of the
Romans, begins with the age, and probably with the actual period, of the
Norman Conquest, the country contains numerous examples of military
works of an earlier, and in many instances no doubt of a very remote, time.
These works, executed in earth, or at least of which no parts but banks,
mounds, and ditches remain, are sometimes of great size, but usually of
extreme simplicity of plan. Of most of them, the Roman again excepted, the
relative age is all that we can hope to ascertain, but even from this
knowledge we are at present very far; and although it is probable that the
simple encampments, of irregular outline, and on high ground, are the work
of the earliest inhabitants of Britain, and those of circular or more regular
outline, having higher banks, and placed in more accessible positions, are
the works of the post-Roman period, yet the outlines are often so mixed,
and the arrangement of the mounds and banks so alike, that it cannot always
certainly be said what is sepulchral, what merely commemorative or
monumental, and what military; what the works of the earlier or later Celts,
what of the Saxons, what of their Danish conquerors, and sometimes even,
though not often, what is Roman.
The particulars of these various earthworks, so different in plan and
extending over so many centuries, deserve a separate notice, and therefore,
though originally intended to have been here treated of, it seemed more
prudent to lay this branch of the subject aside for the present, in the hope
that it may be taken up when the completion of the larger scale Ordnance
Maps shall afford more accurate and copious data than now can
conveniently be procured. The subject, in fact, should have entered into the
instructions given to the officers of the Survey, by which means we should
at least have avoided the obscure and sometimes contradictory system of
nomenclature by which these works have been designated at different
periods of this great, and in most respects admirable, national undertaking.
But, although it be expedient here to pass by in silence those earthworks,
irregular, rectangular, or concentric, which have no direct connexion with
the subsequent castles of masonry, and therefore with military architecture,
Page 23
there remain, nevertheless, certain earthworks which are so connected, and
which must therefore here be noticed, and are of importance sufficient to
require a separate chapter for their consideration.
which must therefore here be noticed, and are of importance sufficient to
require a separate chapter for their consideration.
Page 24
CHAPTER II.
EARTHWORKS OF THE POST-ROMAN AND ENGLISH PERIODS.
BUT little is recorded of the internal condition of Britain between the
departure of the Legions, a.d. 411, and the arrival of the Northmen in force
thirty or forty years later; but whatever may have been the effect of Roman
dominion, or of the infusion of Roman blood, upon the social or
commercial character of the Britons, it is at least certain that they had made
little progress in the construction of places of defence. The Romans dealt
rather with the country than with the people. The foreign trade under the
Roman sway was no doubt considerable, and much land was under
cultivation, but the Britons seem to have acquired but few of the Roman
arts, and nothing of the Roman discipline. Neither have their descendants,
the Welsh, many customs which can be traced distinctly to a Roman origin;
and although there are many words in their language which show its origin
to be cognate with the Latin, there are comparatively few which can, with
any probability, be shown to be derived from the Latin. How far against the
Scots and Picts they made use of Roman tactics or employed Roman
weapons is but little known. In defending themselves against the Northmen
they, no doubt, took advantage of the Roman walls at Richborough and
Lymne, and afterwards of Pevensey, but on the whole with only temporary
success; and from these they were driven back upon the earthworks of their
probably remote predecessors. There is not a shadow of evidence that they
constructed any new defensive works in masonry upon the Roman models,
or even repaired those that were left to them in the same material.
There do, however, remain certain earthworks which seem to be laid out
according to Roman rules, but which contain no traces of Roman
habitations, are not connected with great Roman roads, and the banks and
ditches of which are of greater height and depth than those generally in use
among the Romans in Britain, and which therefore there seems reason to
attribute to the post-Roman Britons. Such are Tamworth, Wareham,
Wallingford, possibly Cardiff, though upon a Roman road, and the additions
to the Roman works at York. The name Wallingford, “the ford of the
EARTHWORKS OF THE POST-ROMAN AND ENGLISH PERIODS.
BUT little is recorded of the internal condition of Britain between the
departure of the Legions, a.d. 411, and the arrival of the Northmen in force
thirty or forty years later; but whatever may have been the effect of Roman
dominion, or of the infusion of Roman blood, upon the social or
commercial character of the Britons, it is at least certain that they had made
little progress in the construction of places of defence. The Romans dealt
rather with the country than with the people. The foreign trade under the
Roman sway was no doubt considerable, and much land was under
cultivation, but the Britons seem to have acquired but few of the Roman
arts, and nothing of the Roman discipline. Neither have their descendants,
the Welsh, many customs which can be traced distinctly to a Roman origin;
and although there are many words in their language which show its origin
to be cognate with the Latin, there are comparatively few which can, with
any probability, be shown to be derived from the Latin. How far against the
Scots and Picts they made use of Roman tactics or employed Roman
weapons is but little known. In defending themselves against the Northmen
they, no doubt, took advantage of the Roman walls at Richborough and
Lymne, and afterwards of Pevensey, but on the whole with only temporary
success; and from these they were driven back upon the earthworks of their
probably remote predecessors. There is not a shadow of evidence that they
constructed any new defensive works in masonry upon the Roman models,
or even repaired those that were left to them in the same material.
There do, however, remain certain earthworks which seem to be laid out
according to Roman rules, but which contain no traces of Roman
habitations, are not connected with great Roman roads, and the banks and
ditches of which are of greater height and depth than those generally in use
among the Romans in Britain, and which therefore there seems reason to
attribute to the post-Roman Britons. Such are Tamworth, Wareham,
Wallingford, possibly Cardiff, though upon a Roman road, and the additions
to the Roman works at York. The name Wallingford, “the ford of the
Page 25
Welsh,” may be quoted in support of this view. It is difficult to understand
how it is that there are no remains in masonry which may be attributed to
this period, for it is impossible that with the example of the Romans before
their eyes, and a certain admixture of Roman blood in the veins of many of
them, the Britons should not have possessed something of the art of
construction. This difficulty does not occur in Gaul, whence the Romans
were never formally withdrawn. On the Continent indeed, generally,
buildings are found of all ages, from the Roman period downwards.
Gregory of Tours, in his “Historia Francorum,” written towards the end of
the sixth century, describes the fortified place of Merliar as of great extent
and strength, in which there were included a sweet-water lake, gardens, and
orchards; and M. de Caumont cites a description of an episcopal castle on
the Moselle in the same century, which was defended by thirty towers, one
of which contained a chapel, and was armed with a balista, and within the
place were cultivated lands and a water-mill; and there were many such,
like the defences of Carcassonne, of mixed Roman and post-Roman work,
that is, of work executed before and about the fifth century.
In Britain, the course of events was different. The Northmen, men of the
sea, and accustomed to life in the open air, had no sympathies with the
Celts, and utterly disdained what remained of Roman civilisation; slaying or
driving out the people, and burning and destroying the Roman buildings,
which, in consequence, are in England fragmentary, and in most cases only
preserved by having been covered up with earth or incorporated into later
structures. The Roman works were mostly on too large a scale for the wants
of new settlers, and even where these occupied the Roman towns they cared
not to restore or complete the walls, but buried what remained of them in
high earthen banks, upon which they pitched their palisades, and within
which they threw up their moated citadels. The Northmen respected
nothing, adopted nothing. Their earliest mission was one of violence and
destruction. They appear, in the south and east at least, in a large measure to
have slain and driven out the people of the land, and to have abolished such
institutions as they possessed. But not the less did they carry with them the
seeds of other institutions of a far more vigorous and very healthful
character. Whether Saxons, Angles, or Jutes, though landing on the shores
of Britain in quite independent parties, they had the substance of their
speech, their customs, and their gods in common. They had the same
familiarity with the sea, the same indisposition to occupy Roman buildings,
how it is that there are no remains in masonry which may be attributed to
this period, for it is impossible that with the example of the Romans before
their eyes, and a certain admixture of Roman blood in the veins of many of
them, the Britons should not have possessed something of the art of
construction. This difficulty does not occur in Gaul, whence the Romans
were never formally withdrawn. On the Continent indeed, generally,
buildings are found of all ages, from the Roman period downwards.
Gregory of Tours, in his “Historia Francorum,” written towards the end of
the sixth century, describes the fortified place of Merliar as of great extent
and strength, in which there were included a sweet-water lake, gardens, and
orchards; and M. de Caumont cites a description of an episcopal castle on
the Moselle in the same century, which was defended by thirty towers, one
of which contained a chapel, and was armed with a balista, and within the
place were cultivated lands and a water-mill; and there were many such,
like the defences of Carcassonne, of mixed Roman and post-Roman work,
that is, of work executed before and about the fifth century.
In Britain, the course of events was different. The Northmen, men of the
sea, and accustomed to life in the open air, had no sympathies with the
Celts, and utterly disdained what remained of Roman civilisation; slaying or
driving out the people, and burning and destroying the Roman buildings,
which, in consequence, are in England fragmentary, and in most cases only
preserved by having been covered up with earth or incorporated into later
structures. The Roman works were mostly on too large a scale for the wants
of new settlers, and even where these occupied the Roman towns they cared
not to restore or complete the walls, but buried what remained of them in
high earthen banks, upon which they pitched their palisades, and within
which they threw up their moated citadels. The Northmen respected
nothing, adopted nothing. Their earliest mission was one of violence and
destruction. They appear, in the south and east at least, in a large measure to
have slain and driven out the people of the land, and to have abolished such
institutions as they possessed. But not the less did they carry with them the
seeds of other institutions of a far more vigorous and very healthful
character. Whether Saxons, Angles, or Jutes, though landing on the shores
of Britain in quite independent parties, they had the substance of their
speech, their customs, and their gods in common. They had the same
familiarity with the sea, the same indisposition to occupy Roman buildings,
Page 26
the same absence of all sympathy with the native Britons. If they still held
most of their lands in common, the house and the homestead were already
private property. Their family ties were strong, as is shown in the
nomenclature of their villages. As they conquered, they settled, and
practised agriculture, and as they embraced Christianity they gradually
established those divisions, civil and ecclesiastical, sokes and rapes,
tythings, hundreds, wapentakes, and parishes, which still remain to attest
the respect to which they had attained for law and order, for the rights of
private property, and their capacity for self-government.
Much akin to, and before long to be incorporated into the English nation,
were the Norsemen from the seaboard country north of the Elbe, the Danes
of English history and of local tradition, who in the eighth century played
the part of the Saxons in the fifth. They scoured the same seas, and harassed
the Saxons as the Saxons had harassed the Britons, only the invaders and
the invaded being, generally, of the same blood, finally coalesced, and the
distinctions between them became well-nigh effaced; still, for three
centuries, the ninth, tenth, and eleventh, the Danish name was the terror of
the British Isles. They infested every strand, anchored in every bay,
ascended every river, penetrated and laid waste the interior of the country.
Orkney is full of their traces, their language is the key to the
topographical nomenclature of Caithness, the gigantic works at
Flamborough Head are attributed to them; the great cutting, by which they
carried a branch of the Thames across Southwark, is on record. In the year
a.d. 1000, Ethelred found them forming much of the population of
Cumberland. Such terminations as eye, ness, holm, and by, so common
along the shores of England, or over the lands watered by the Trent and the
Humber, the Tees and the Tyne, and not unknown on the western coast,
show the extent and permanence of their settlements. It does not, however,
appear that the Danish earthworks differed materially from those thrown up
by the other northern nations in England. Camps tending to the circular
form and headlands fortified by segmental lines of bank and ditch belong to
all, and all when they settled and acquired property underwent very similar
changes in their habits and modes of life.
No doubt, among the earlier works of the Northmen, those thrown up to
cover their landing and protect their ships, were the semicircular lines of
ditch and bank found on capes and headlands and projecting cliffs on
most of their lands in common, the house and the homestead were already
private property. Their family ties were strong, as is shown in the
nomenclature of their villages. As they conquered, they settled, and
practised agriculture, and as they embraced Christianity they gradually
established those divisions, civil and ecclesiastical, sokes and rapes,
tythings, hundreds, wapentakes, and parishes, which still remain to attest
the respect to which they had attained for law and order, for the rights of
private property, and their capacity for self-government.
Much akin to, and before long to be incorporated into the English nation,
were the Norsemen from the seaboard country north of the Elbe, the Danes
of English history and of local tradition, who in the eighth century played
the part of the Saxons in the fifth. They scoured the same seas, and harassed
the Saxons as the Saxons had harassed the Britons, only the invaders and
the invaded being, generally, of the same blood, finally coalesced, and the
distinctions between them became well-nigh effaced; still, for three
centuries, the ninth, tenth, and eleventh, the Danish name was the terror of
the British Isles. They infested every strand, anchored in every bay,
ascended every river, penetrated and laid waste the interior of the country.
Orkney is full of their traces, their language is the key to the
topographical nomenclature of Caithness, the gigantic works at
Flamborough Head are attributed to them; the great cutting, by which they
carried a branch of the Thames across Southwark, is on record. In the year
a.d. 1000, Ethelred found them forming much of the population of
Cumberland. Such terminations as eye, ness, holm, and by, so common
along the shores of England, or over the lands watered by the Trent and the
Humber, the Tees and the Tyne, and not unknown on the western coast,
show the extent and permanence of their settlements. It does not, however,
appear that the Danish earthworks differed materially from those thrown up
by the other northern nations in England. Camps tending to the circular
form and headlands fortified by segmental lines of bank and ditch belong to
all, and all when they settled and acquired property underwent very similar
changes in their habits and modes of life.
No doubt, among the earlier works of the Northmen, those thrown up to
cover their landing and protect their ships, were the semicircular lines of
ditch and bank found on capes and headlands and projecting cliffs on
Page 27
various parts of the sea-coast. Usually they are of limited area, as the
invaders came commonly in very small bodies, but the Flamborough
entrenchment has a line of bank and ditch three and a half miles long, of a
most formidable character, and including a very large area.
Along the coast of South Wales are many small camps, probably of
Danish origin, such as Sully, Porthkerry, Colhugh, Dunraven, Pennard,
Penmaen, five others on the headland of Gower, and five or six along the
southern shore of Pembrokeshire. Besides these material traces of the
invaders, are a long list of such names as Haverford (fiord), Stackpole,
Hubberton, Angle, Hubberston, Herbrandston, Gateholm, Stockholm,
Skomer, Musselwick, Haroldston, Ramsey, Strumble, Swansea, savouring
intensely of the Baltic. The Dinas’ Head between Newport and Fishguard
bays, though bearing a Welsh name, is fortified by an entrenchment due
without doubt to the Northmen.
These and similar works evidently belong to the earlier period of the
northern invasions, when the long black galleys of the vikings visited at not
infrequent intervals the British and Irish shores, before they settled in either
land. In the fifth and sixth centuries settlements began to be formed in
Britain, and speedily assumed dimensions very formidable to the natives.
The south-eastern coast of Britain, infested even in Roman times by the sea-
rovers, and thence known as the Saxon shore, had been fortified by the
Romans, but the works, intrinsically strong, were too weak in British hands
to stem the progress of the foe. In a.d. 530, Cerdic and Cynric took the Isle
of Wight, and slew many Britons at a place where Wightgar was afterwards
buried, and where he probably threw up the work which bore his name, and
afterwards, as now, was known as Carisbroke. In 547, Ida, the “flame-
bearer” of the Welsh bards, founded Bebbanburgh, now Bamborough, and
enclosed it first by a hedge [hegge], and afterwards by a wall; and in 552
Cynric engaged the Britons at Sorbiodunum, afterwards Searo-burh, and
now Old Sarum; as did in 571 Cuthwulf or Cutha at Bedcanford or Bedford,
in each of these two latter places, as at Carisbroke and probably at
Twynham or Christchurch, throwing up the works which yet remain. The
conquest of the Romano-British cities of Cirencester, Bath, and Gloucester,
and the whole left bank of the Severn, from the Avon of Bristol to that of
Worcester, was the immediate consequence of the victory of Deorham in
571, and was followed by the possession of Pengwern, afterwards
invaders came commonly in very small bodies, but the Flamborough
entrenchment has a line of bank and ditch three and a half miles long, of a
most formidable character, and including a very large area.
Along the coast of South Wales are many small camps, probably of
Danish origin, such as Sully, Porthkerry, Colhugh, Dunraven, Pennard,
Penmaen, five others on the headland of Gower, and five or six along the
southern shore of Pembrokeshire. Besides these material traces of the
invaders, are a long list of such names as Haverford (fiord), Stackpole,
Hubberton, Angle, Hubberston, Herbrandston, Gateholm, Stockholm,
Skomer, Musselwick, Haroldston, Ramsey, Strumble, Swansea, savouring
intensely of the Baltic. The Dinas’ Head between Newport and Fishguard
bays, though bearing a Welsh name, is fortified by an entrenchment due
without doubt to the Northmen.
These and similar works evidently belong to the earlier period of the
northern invasions, when the long black galleys of the vikings visited at not
infrequent intervals the British and Irish shores, before they settled in either
land. In the fifth and sixth centuries settlements began to be formed in
Britain, and speedily assumed dimensions very formidable to the natives.
The south-eastern coast of Britain, infested even in Roman times by the sea-
rovers, and thence known as the Saxon shore, had been fortified by the
Romans, but the works, intrinsically strong, were too weak in British hands
to stem the progress of the foe. In a.d. 530, Cerdic and Cynric took the Isle
of Wight, and slew many Britons at a place where Wightgar was afterwards
buried, and where he probably threw up the work which bore his name, and
afterwards, as now, was known as Carisbroke. In 547, Ida, the “flame-
bearer” of the Welsh bards, founded Bebbanburgh, now Bamborough, and
enclosed it first by a hedge [hegge], and afterwards by a wall; and in 552
Cynric engaged the Britons at Sorbiodunum, afterwards Searo-burh, and
now Old Sarum; as did in 571 Cuthwulf or Cutha at Bedcanford or Bedford,
in each of these two latter places, as at Carisbroke and probably at
Twynham or Christchurch, throwing up the works which yet remain. The
conquest of the Romano-British cities of Cirencester, Bath, and Gloucester,
and the whole left bank of the Severn, from the Avon of Bristol to that of
Worcester, was the immediate consequence of the victory of Deorham in
571, and was followed by the possession of Pengwern, afterwards
Page 28
Shrewsbury, a most important post, and one by means of which the
Mercians, and after them the Normans, held the Middle March of Wales. All
along the line from Christchurch and Carisbroke, by Berkeley and
Gloucester, Worcester, Warwick and Shrewsbury, earthworks were then
thrown up, most of which are still to be seen.
With the social changes among the invaders changed also the character of
their military, or rather of their mixed military and domestic, works. The
British encampments, intended for the residence of a tribe having all things
in common, were, both in position and arrangements, utterly unsuited to the
new inhabitants. The Roman stations, intended for garrisons, save where
they formed part of an existing city, were scarcely less so, nor were the
earlier works of the Northmen suited to their later wants. These were mostly
of a hasty character, thrown up to cover a landing or to hold at bay a
superior force. No sooner had the strangers gained a permanent footing in a
district than their operations assumed a different character. Their ideas were
not, like those of the Romans, of an imperial character; they laid out no
great lines of road, took at first no precautions for the general defence or
administration of the country. Self-government prevailed. Each family held
and gave name to its special allotment. This is the key to the plan of the
later and great majority of purely English earthworks. They were not
intended for the defence of a tribe or territory, nor for the accommodation of
fighting men, but for the centre and defence of a private estate, for the
accommodation of the lord and his household, for the protection of his
tenants generally, should they be attacked, and for the safe housing, in time
of war, of their flocks and herds.
These works, thrown up in England in the ninth and tenth centuries, are
seldom, if ever, rectangular, nor are they governed to any great extent by the
character of the ground. First was cast up a truncated cone of earth, standing
at its natural slope, from twelve to even fifty or sixty feet in height. This
“mound,” “motte,” or “burh,” the “Mota” of our records, was formed from
the contents of a broad and deep circumscribing ditch. This ditch, proper to
the mound, is now sometimes wholly or partially filled up, but it seems
always to have been present, being in fact the parent of the mound.
Berkhampstead is a fine example of such a mound, with the original ditch.
At Caerleon, Tickhill, and Lincoln it has been in part filled up; at Cardiff it
was wholly so, but has recently been most carefully cleared out, and its
Mercians, and after them the Normans, held the Middle March of Wales. All
along the line from Christchurch and Carisbroke, by Berkeley and
Gloucester, Worcester, Warwick and Shrewsbury, earthworks were then
thrown up, most of which are still to be seen.
With the social changes among the invaders changed also the character of
their military, or rather of their mixed military and domestic, works. The
British encampments, intended for the residence of a tribe having all things
in common, were, both in position and arrangements, utterly unsuited to the
new inhabitants. The Roman stations, intended for garrisons, save where
they formed part of an existing city, were scarcely less so, nor were the
earlier works of the Northmen suited to their later wants. These were mostly
of a hasty character, thrown up to cover a landing or to hold at bay a
superior force. No sooner had the strangers gained a permanent footing in a
district than their operations assumed a different character. Their ideas were
not, like those of the Romans, of an imperial character; they laid out no
great lines of road, took at first no precautions for the general defence or
administration of the country. Self-government prevailed. Each family held
and gave name to its special allotment. This is the key to the plan of the
later and great majority of purely English earthworks. They were not
intended for the defence of a tribe or territory, nor for the accommodation of
fighting men, but for the centre and defence of a private estate, for the
accommodation of the lord and his household, for the protection of his
tenants generally, should they be attacked, and for the safe housing, in time
of war, of their flocks and herds.
These works, thrown up in England in the ninth and tenth centuries, are
seldom, if ever, rectangular, nor are they governed to any great extent by the
character of the ground. First was cast up a truncated cone of earth, standing
at its natural slope, from twelve to even fifty or sixty feet in height. This
“mound,” “motte,” or “burh,” the “Mota” of our records, was formed from
the contents of a broad and deep circumscribing ditch. This ditch, proper to
the mound, is now sometimes wholly or partially filled up, but it seems
always to have been present, being in fact the parent of the mound.
Berkhampstead is a fine example of such a mound, with the original ditch.
At Caerleon, Tickhill, and Lincoln it has been in part filled up; at Cardiff it
was wholly so, but has recently been most carefully cleared out, and its
Page 29
original depth and breadth are seen to have been very formidable. Though
usually artificial, these mounds are not always so. Durham, Launceston,
Montacute, Dunster, Restormel, Nant cribba, are natural hills; Windsor,
Tickhill, Lewes, Norwich, Ely, and the Devizes, are partly so; at Sherborne
and Hedingham the mound is a natural platform, scarped by art; at Tutbury,
Pontefract and Bramber, where the natural platform was also large, it has
been scarped, and a mound thrown up upon it.
Connected with the mound is usually a base court or enclosure,
sometimes circular, more commonly oval or horseshoe-shaped, but if of the
age of the mound always more or less rounded. This enclosure had also its
bank and ditch on its outward faces, its rear resting on the ditch of the
mound, and the area was often further strengthened by a bank along the
crest of the scarp of the ditch. Now and then, as at Old Sarum, there is an
additional but slighter bank placed outside the outer ditch, that is, upon the
crest of the counterscarp. This was evidently intended to carry a palisade,
and to fulfil the conditions of the covered-way along the crest of one of
Vauban’s counterscarps. Where the enclosure is circular, the mound is either
central, as at Pickering, or Mileham, or at Old Sarum, where it is possibly
an addition to an older work, such as Badbury, or it stands on one side, as at
Tutbury. Where the area is oblong or oval, the mound may be placed near
one end, as at Bramber. At Windsor and Arundel it is on one side of an
oblong enclosure, producing a sort of hourglass constriction, and where this
is the case a part of its ditch coincides with the ditch of the place. Where the
court is only part of a circle it rests upon a part of the ditch of the mound. At
Sarum there are two ditches concentrically arranged. At Berkhampstead the
mound is outside the court. On the whole, as at Tickhill, Castle Acre, and
Lincoln, it is most usual to see the mound on the edge of the court, so that it
forms a part of the general “enceinte” of the place. Where the base court is
of moderate area, as at Builth and Kilpeck, its platform is often slightly
elevated by the addition of a part of the contents of the ditch, which is
rarely the case in British camps. At Wigmore and Builth, where the mound
stands on the edge of a natural steep, the ditch is there discontinued. The
base court is usually two or three times the area of the mound, and
sometimes, as at Wallingford or Warwick, much more. No doubt the reason
for placing the mound on one side rather than in the centre of the court was
to allow of the concentration of the lodgings, stables, &c., on one spot, and
to make the mound form a part of the exterior defences of the place.
usually artificial, these mounds are not always so. Durham, Launceston,
Montacute, Dunster, Restormel, Nant cribba, are natural hills; Windsor,
Tickhill, Lewes, Norwich, Ely, and the Devizes, are partly so; at Sherborne
and Hedingham the mound is a natural platform, scarped by art; at Tutbury,
Pontefract and Bramber, where the natural platform was also large, it has
been scarped, and a mound thrown up upon it.
Connected with the mound is usually a base court or enclosure,
sometimes circular, more commonly oval or horseshoe-shaped, but if of the
age of the mound always more or less rounded. This enclosure had also its
bank and ditch on its outward faces, its rear resting on the ditch of the
mound, and the area was often further strengthened by a bank along the
crest of the scarp of the ditch. Now and then, as at Old Sarum, there is an
additional but slighter bank placed outside the outer ditch, that is, upon the
crest of the counterscarp. This was evidently intended to carry a palisade,
and to fulfil the conditions of the covered-way along the crest of one of
Vauban’s counterscarps. Where the enclosure is circular, the mound is either
central, as at Pickering, or Mileham, or at Old Sarum, where it is possibly
an addition to an older work, such as Badbury, or it stands on one side, as at
Tutbury. Where the area is oblong or oval, the mound may be placed near
one end, as at Bramber. At Windsor and Arundel it is on one side of an
oblong enclosure, producing a sort of hourglass constriction, and where this
is the case a part of its ditch coincides with the ditch of the place. Where the
court is only part of a circle it rests upon a part of the ditch of the mound. At
Sarum there are two ditches concentrically arranged. At Berkhampstead the
mound is outside the court. On the whole, as at Tickhill, Castle Acre, and
Lincoln, it is most usual to see the mound on the edge of the court, so that it
forms a part of the general “enceinte” of the place. Where the base court is
of moderate area, as at Builth and Kilpeck, its platform is often slightly
elevated by the addition of a part of the contents of the ditch, which is
rarely the case in British camps. At Wigmore and Builth, where the mound
stands on the edge of a natural steep, the ditch is there discontinued. The
base court is usually two or three times the area of the mound, and
sometimes, as at Wallingford or Warwick, much more. No doubt the reason
for placing the mound on one side rather than in the centre of the court was
to allow of the concentration of the lodgings, stables, &c., on one spot, and
to make the mound form a part of the exterior defences of the place.
Page 30
The mound and base court, though the principal parts, were not always
the whole work. Often there was on the outside of the court and applied to
it, as at Brinklow and Rockingham, a second enclosure, also with its bank
and ditch, frequently of larger area than the main court, though not so
strongly defended. It was intended to shelter the flocks and herds of the
tenants in case of an attack. At Norham, the castle ditch was used for this
purpose as late as the reign of Henry VIII. There are several cases in which
the mound is placed within a rectangular enclosure, which has given rise to
a notion that the whole was Roman. Tamworth is such a case, and there,
fortunately, the mound is known historically to have been the work of
Æthelflaed, as is that of Leicester, similarly placed. From this and from the
evidence of the earthworks themselves a like conclusion may be drawn as
to the superadded mounds at Wareham, Wallingford, and Cardiff. At
Helmsley, as at Castle Acre, Brougham, and Brough, the earthworks stand
upon part of a Roman camp, and at Kilpeck and Moat Lane, near
Llanidloes, part of the area may possibly be British.
East Anglia contains some fine examples of these moated mounds,
combined with rectangular encampments. Castle Acre is an excellent
example, as are, in a less degree, Mileham and Buckenham.
When the English lord took up his abode within a Roman camp or
station, he often turned the Roman works, whether of earth or masonry, to
account, and threw up his bank in one corner, altering the contiguous banks
and ditches to suit his new arrangements. Thus at Pevensey, Leicester,
Cambridge, Lincoln, Southampton, Winchester, Chichester, Caerleon,
Chester, English mounds and base courts are placed within Roman
enclosures which either are or were walled. At Auldchester, near Bicester,
the Roman Alauna, is a mound of later date than the camp. At Plessy,
Tamworth, Wallingford, Wareham, Cardiff, are found mounds decidedly of
later date than the enclosing works. There are also cases where the mound is
placed within an earthwork with something of a tendency to the rectangular,
though scarcely to be pronounced either Roman or Romano-British. Such
are Clare, Hereford, Eaton-Socon, where the mound is very small indeed;
and Lilbourne. Tempsford is very peculiar: it is a small rectangular
enclosure close to the Ouse, and in one corner, upon the bank, is a small
mound.
the whole work. Often there was on the outside of the court and applied to
it, as at Brinklow and Rockingham, a second enclosure, also with its bank
and ditch, frequently of larger area than the main court, though not so
strongly defended. It was intended to shelter the flocks and herds of the
tenants in case of an attack. At Norham, the castle ditch was used for this
purpose as late as the reign of Henry VIII. There are several cases in which
the mound is placed within a rectangular enclosure, which has given rise to
a notion that the whole was Roman. Tamworth is such a case, and there,
fortunately, the mound is known historically to have been the work of
Æthelflaed, as is that of Leicester, similarly placed. From this and from the
evidence of the earthworks themselves a like conclusion may be drawn as
to the superadded mounds at Wareham, Wallingford, and Cardiff. At
Helmsley, as at Castle Acre, Brougham, and Brough, the earthworks stand
upon part of a Roman camp, and at Kilpeck and Moat Lane, near
Llanidloes, part of the area may possibly be British.
East Anglia contains some fine examples of these moated mounds,
combined with rectangular encampments. Castle Acre is an excellent
example, as are, in a less degree, Mileham and Buckenham.
When the English lord took up his abode within a Roman camp or
station, he often turned the Roman works, whether of earth or masonry, to
account, and threw up his bank in one corner, altering the contiguous banks
and ditches to suit his new arrangements. Thus at Pevensey, Leicester,
Cambridge, Lincoln, Southampton, Winchester, Chichester, Caerleon,
Chester, English mounds and base courts are placed within Roman
enclosures which either are or were walled. At Auldchester, near Bicester,
the Roman Alauna, is a mound of later date than the camp. At Plessy,
Tamworth, Wallingford, Wareham, Cardiff, are found mounds decidedly of
later date than the enclosing works. There are also cases where the mound is
placed within an earthwork with something of a tendency to the rectangular,
though scarcely to be pronounced either Roman or Romano-British. Such
are Clare, Hereford, Eaton-Socon, where the mound is very small indeed;
and Lilbourne. Tempsford is very peculiar: it is a small rectangular
enclosure close to the Ouse, and in one corner, upon the bank, is a small
mound.
Page 31
The group of works, of which the mound was the principal feature,
constituted a Burh. The burh was always fortified, and each inhabitant of
the surrounding township was bound to aid in the repair of the works,
almost always of timber, a material which the Saxons, like other German
nations, appear usually to have preferred for building purposes to stone,
though some of their towns were walled, as Colchester and Exeter, and
Domesday records the custom of repairing the walls of Oxford, Cambridge,
and Chester.
In these English, as before them in the British works, the ditches were
sometimes used to contain and protect the approaches. This is well seen at
Clun and Kilpeck. At Tutbury the main approach enters between two
exterior platforms, and skirts the outer edge of the ditch, until it reaches the
inner entrance. The object was to place the approach under the eyes and
command of the garrison.
As there are still some archæologists whose experience entitles their
opinions to respect, who attribute these moated mounds to the Britons, it
will be necessary to point out that the attribution of them to the English,
though materially strengthened by the evidence of the works themselves,
does not wholly, or even mainly, rest upon it. While the British camps are
either præhistoric or unnoticed even in the earliest histories, and the age of
the Roman works is only deducible from their plan and style, and from the
known and limited period of the Roman stay in Britain, English works are
continually mentioned in the chronicles, and the names of their founders
and date of the construction of many of them are on record. Thus Taunton
was founded by Ine a little before 721–2, when Queen Æthelburh destroyed
it. The original earthworks still remaining are considerable, and formed part
of the defences of a fortress erected long afterwards. In the ninth century, as
the Danish incursions became more frequent, works of defence became
more general, and are largely mentioned directly, or by implication, in the
Anglo-Saxon chronicle. In 868–9, the Danish army was at Nottingham, a
strong natural position, in which it was besieged by the West-Saxons. In
870, the Danes were a whole year at York and wintered at Thetford, where
large earthworks remain. In 875 they were at Cambridge, and in 876 at
Wareham, a West-Saxon fortress, whence they attacked Exeter, and at all
these places are earthworks. In 878, we read that Ælfred “wrought” a
fortress at Æthelney, and in 885 the Danes laid siege to Rochester and
constituted a Burh. The burh was always fortified, and each inhabitant of
the surrounding township was bound to aid in the repair of the works,
almost always of timber, a material which the Saxons, like other German
nations, appear usually to have preferred for building purposes to stone,
though some of their towns were walled, as Colchester and Exeter, and
Domesday records the custom of repairing the walls of Oxford, Cambridge,
and Chester.
In these English, as before them in the British works, the ditches were
sometimes used to contain and protect the approaches. This is well seen at
Clun and Kilpeck. At Tutbury the main approach enters between two
exterior platforms, and skirts the outer edge of the ditch, until it reaches the
inner entrance. The object was to place the approach under the eyes and
command of the garrison.
As there are still some archæologists whose experience entitles their
opinions to respect, who attribute these moated mounds to the Britons, it
will be necessary to point out that the attribution of them to the English,
though materially strengthened by the evidence of the works themselves,
does not wholly, or even mainly, rest upon it. While the British camps are
either præhistoric or unnoticed even in the earliest histories, and the age of
the Roman works is only deducible from their plan and style, and from the
known and limited period of the Roman stay in Britain, English works are
continually mentioned in the chronicles, and the names of their founders
and date of the construction of many of them are on record. Thus Taunton
was founded by Ine a little before 721–2, when Queen Æthelburh destroyed
it. The original earthworks still remaining are considerable, and formed part
of the defences of a fortress erected long afterwards. In the ninth century, as
the Danish incursions became more frequent, works of defence became
more general, and are largely mentioned directly, or by implication, in the
Anglo-Saxon chronicle. In 868–9, the Danish army was at Nottingham, a
strong natural position, in which it was besieged by the West-Saxons. In
870, the Danes were a whole year at York and wintered at Thetford, where
large earthworks remain. In 875 they were at Cambridge, and in 876 at
Wareham, a West-Saxon fortress, whence they attacked Exeter, and at all
these places are earthworks. In 878, we read that Ælfred “wrought” a
fortress at Æthelney, and in 885 the Danes laid siege to Rochester and
Page 32
“wrought” another fortress about their position, no doubt the great mound
that still remains outside the castle and the Roman area. In 893, the Danes
ascended four miles along the Limen or “Lymne” river in Kent, and there
stormed a work, “geweorc,” which was but half constructed. In the same
year Hæsten entered the Thames and “wrought” him a work at Milton, and
other Danes landed at Appledore, at the mouth of the Limen. In 894 Ælfred
fought with the Danes at Farnham, where the episcopal keep still stands
upon a burh. Hæsten or Hastings had already constructed a burh at Benfleet,
which was stormed by Ælfred, who in the same year blocked him up at
Buttington, on the Severn. In 896, the Danes threw up a work on the Lea,
twenty miles from London, whereupon Ælfred threw up another work on
each bank of that river lower down, and diverted the waters through a
number of shallow courses, thus effectually shutting in the Danish ships.
The Danes, in consequence, marched inland, and crossed the country to
Quatbridge, on the Severn, and there “wrought a work” and passed the
winter. Some of these works remain, and are good examples of moated
mounds.
In the tenth century the number of English fortresses was prodigiously
increased, chiefly by the energy of Æthelflaed. Ælfred died in 901, and was
succeeded by Eadward, his son, who attacked, in the fortress of Badbury,
his cousin Æthelwald, who held Christchurch and Wimborne. In 907,
Chester, the Roman walls of which had long lain in ruin, was strengthened,
probably by the earthworks still to be seen in its south-western corner,
though the mound has been almost entirely removed. In 910, Æthelflaed,
sister to Eadward and Lady of the Mercians, comes upon the scene as the
greatest founder of fortresses in that century. In that year she built a burh at
Bramsbury, and in 913 one at Scergeat or Sarrat, and at Bridgenorth
(Oldbury). In 913, about the 14th of April, Eadward built the north burh at
Hertford, between the rivers Memera or Maran, the Benefica or Bean, and
the Lygea or Lea, upon which long after stood the shell keep of the Norman
castle; and after May and before midsummer he encamped at Maldon while
Witham burh was being built. Then also the second burh of Hertford, south
of the Lea, was built. In the same year, 913, Æthelflaed and her Mercians
built the burh of Tamworth in the early summer, and in August that of
Stafford; and in the next year, 914, also in the summer, that of Eddesbury,
and towards the end of autumn, that of Warwick, on which are still traces of
a later keep.
that still remains outside the castle and the Roman area. In 893, the Danes
ascended four miles along the Limen or “Lymne” river in Kent, and there
stormed a work, “geweorc,” which was but half constructed. In the same
year Hæsten entered the Thames and “wrought” him a work at Milton, and
other Danes landed at Appledore, at the mouth of the Limen. In 894 Ælfred
fought with the Danes at Farnham, where the episcopal keep still stands
upon a burh. Hæsten or Hastings had already constructed a burh at Benfleet,
which was stormed by Ælfred, who in the same year blocked him up at
Buttington, on the Severn. In 896, the Danes threw up a work on the Lea,
twenty miles from London, whereupon Ælfred threw up another work on
each bank of that river lower down, and diverted the waters through a
number of shallow courses, thus effectually shutting in the Danish ships.
The Danes, in consequence, marched inland, and crossed the country to
Quatbridge, on the Severn, and there “wrought a work” and passed the
winter. Some of these works remain, and are good examples of moated
mounds.
In the tenth century the number of English fortresses was prodigiously
increased, chiefly by the energy of Æthelflaed. Ælfred died in 901, and was
succeeded by Eadward, his son, who attacked, in the fortress of Badbury,
his cousin Æthelwald, who held Christchurch and Wimborne. In 907,
Chester, the Roman walls of which had long lain in ruin, was strengthened,
probably by the earthworks still to be seen in its south-western corner,
though the mound has been almost entirely removed. In 910, Æthelflaed,
sister to Eadward and Lady of the Mercians, comes upon the scene as the
greatest founder of fortresses in that century. In that year she built a burh at
Bramsbury, and in 913 one at Scergeat or Sarrat, and at Bridgenorth
(Oldbury). In 913, about the 14th of April, Eadward built the north burh at
Hertford, between the rivers Memera or Maran, the Benefica or Bean, and
the Lygea or Lea, upon which long after stood the shell keep of the Norman
castle; and after May and before midsummer he encamped at Maldon while
Witham burh was being built. Then also the second burh of Hertford, south
of the Lea, was built. In the same year, 913, Æthelflaed and her Mercians
built the burh of Tamworth in the early summer, and in August that of
Stafford; and in the next year, 914, also in the summer, that of Eddesbury,
and towards the end of autumn, that of Warwick, on which are still traces of
a later keep.
Page 33
In 915, Æthelflaed constructed a burh at Chirbury, probably in the field
still known as the King’s Orchard, and at Wardbury, and before mid-winter
that of Runcorn, where was afterwards a Norman castle. In that year the
Danes ascended the Bristol Channel and entered Irchenfield, west of
Hereford, remarkable, amongst many others, for its burhs of Kilpeck and
Ewias-Harold, whence they were driven back by the men of Hereford and
Gloucester, and of the surrounding burhs. In 916, Æthelflaed stormed the
mound of Brecknock, and took thence the Welsh king’s wife and thirty-four
persons. Late in the year Eadward was some weeks at Buckingham, and
there constructed two burhs, one on each bank of the river, on one of which
afterwards stood Earl Giffard’s keep. In 917, Æthelflaed took Derby, the
gates of which town are mentioned, and in 918 the burh of Leicester, soon
after which she died in her palace in Tamworth. In 919, Eadward went to
Bedford, took its burh, the site of Lord Beauchamp’s keep, and there
remained for four weeks, during which time he threw up a second burh on
the opposite or south bank of the river Ouse. In 920 he constructed the burh
at Maldon, and in 921, in April, that at Towcester, which in the autumn he
girdled with a wall of stone. In the following May he directed the burh at
Wigmore to be built, and in August the whole Danish army spent a day
before Towcester, but failed to take it by storm. In that year the Danes
abandoned their work at Huntingdon and wrought one at Tempsford, and
thence moved to Bedford, whence they were repulsed. They also attacked
the burh at Wigmore for a day, but without success. This was a busy year. In
it the English stormed Tempsford burh, and beset Colchester burh, and slew
there all but one man who escaped over the wall. Maldon burh also was
attacked by the Danish army, but without success. In November, Eadward
repaired the burhs at Huntingdon and Colchester and raised that at
Cledemutha. In 922, the same great English leader, between May and
midsummer, “wrought” a burh at Stamford on the south bank of the
Welland, opposite to that already existing. He reduced the burh at
Nottingham, repaired it, and garrisoned it with Englishmen and Danes. In
923, Eadward erected a burh at Thelwall, and in 924 one at Bakewell, and a
second at Nottingham, opposite to the existing one, the Trent flowing
between them. In 943, Olaf the Dane took Tamworth by storm. In 952,
mention is made of the fastness of Jedburgh, and of the town of Thetford. In
993, Bamborough was stormed.
still known as the King’s Orchard, and at Wardbury, and before mid-winter
that of Runcorn, where was afterwards a Norman castle. In that year the
Danes ascended the Bristol Channel and entered Irchenfield, west of
Hereford, remarkable, amongst many others, for its burhs of Kilpeck and
Ewias-Harold, whence they were driven back by the men of Hereford and
Gloucester, and of the surrounding burhs. In 916, Æthelflaed stormed the
mound of Brecknock, and took thence the Welsh king’s wife and thirty-four
persons. Late in the year Eadward was some weeks at Buckingham, and
there constructed two burhs, one on each bank of the river, on one of which
afterwards stood Earl Giffard’s keep. In 917, Æthelflaed took Derby, the
gates of which town are mentioned, and in 918 the burh of Leicester, soon
after which she died in her palace in Tamworth. In 919, Eadward went to
Bedford, took its burh, the site of Lord Beauchamp’s keep, and there
remained for four weeks, during which time he threw up a second burh on
the opposite or south bank of the river Ouse. In 920 he constructed the burh
at Maldon, and in 921, in April, that at Towcester, which in the autumn he
girdled with a wall of stone. In the following May he directed the burh at
Wigmore to be built, and in August the whole Danish army spent a day
before Towcester, but failed to take it by storm. In that year the Danes
abandoned their work at Huntingdon and wrought one at Tempsford, and
thence moved to Bedford, whence they were repulsed. They also attacked
the burh at Wigmore for a day, but without success. This was a busy year. In
it the English stormed Tempsford burh, and beset Colchester burh, and slew
there all but one man who escaped over the wall. Maldon burh also was
attacked by the Danish army, but without success. In November, Eadward
repaired the burhs at Huntingdon and Colchester and raised that at
Cledemutha. In 922, the same great English leader, between May and
midsummer, “wrought” a burh at Stamford on the south bank of the
Welland, opposite to that already existing. He reduced the burh at
Nottingham, repaired it, and garrisoned it with Englishmen and Danes. In
923, Eadward erected a burh at Thelwall, and in 924 one at Bakewell, and a
second at Nottingham, opposite to the existing one, the Trent flowing
between them. In 943, Olaf the Dane took Tamworth by storm. In 952,
mention is made of the fastness of Jedburgh, and of the town of Thetford. In
993, Bamborough was stormed.
Page 34
TOWCESTER BURGH BURY MOUNT
Of the fifty burhs named in the chronicle, about forty-one have been
identified, and of these about twenty-nine still exist. Of this number,
twenty-two are moated mounds, mostly with base courts also moated. At
Taunton, as at Chirbury, there is reason to suppose that there was a mound,
and the works at Exeter, Rochester, Colchester, and Pevensey, which are
Roman, possibly succeeding earlier British works, have been taken
possession of and altered by the English, as is the case also at Chester,
where was, and at Pevensey, where still is, a mound. At Rochester is a large
mound, though outside the fortress. Rougemont in Exeter is itself a natural
mound, and Bamborough, from its great height and steepness, needed
Of the fifty burhs named in the chronicle, about forty-one have been
identified, and of these about twenty-nine still exist. Of this number,
twenty-two are moated mounds, mostly with base courts also moated. At
Taunton, as at Chirbury, there is reason to suppose that there was a mound,
and the works at Exeter, Rochester, Colchester, and Pevensey, which are
Roman, possibly succeeding earlier British works, have been taken
possession of and altered by the English, as is the case also at Chester,
where was, and at Pevensey, where still is, a mound. At Rochester is a large
mound, though outside the fortress. Rougemont in Exeter is itself a natural
mound, and Bamborough, from its great height and steepness, needed
Page 35
neither mound nor earthwork of any kind. Of double burhs, commanding
the passage of a river, the chronicle mentions Nottingham and those on the
Lea, and others at Hertford, Bedford, Stamford, and Buckingham.
Unfortunately, none of these are perfect. At Nottingham and on the Lea
both mounds have long been removed; one is remembered at Stamford and
Buckingham, and one may still be seen at Hertford. But the only double
mounds remaining to show how, in the tenth century, the English defended
the passage of a river, are those at York, which are not mentioned in the
chronicle.
It appears then, that setting aside works that have not been identified, or
which have been destroyed before note was taken of them, there are above a
score of burhs, the date of the erection of which, and the name of the
founder, are entered in a trustworthy record, and which are still to be seen.
What then is a burh? A burh is a moated mound with a table top, and a base
court, also moated, either appended to one side of it, or within which it
stands. But the burhs, the dates of which are on record, and which are thus
described, are but a very few of those found all over England, in the
lowlands of Scotland, and on the marches bordering on Wales, which from
their precise similarity in character to those actually identified must be
assumed to be of like date and origin, and may therefore safely be attributed
to the ninth and tenth and possibly to the eighth centuries, and to the
English people, that is to the Northern settlers generally, as distinguished
from the Britons and the Romans.
It happens also that, in very many cases where these burhs are found,
they can be shown to have been the “caput” or centre of an estate. It is
probable that this was always the case, but as a rule it is only with respect to
the very large estates that this can be proved from records. Thus the mound
of Wallingford was the seat of Wigod, whose heiress married Robert
D’Oyley; Bourne or Brum was held by Earl Morcar in 870; Edwin, Earl of
Mercia, Lord of Strafford Wapentake, in Yorkshire, had an “aula” at
Laughton-en-le-Morthen, and Conyngsborough was the centre of a royal
fee. The English Lord of Richmondshire had a seat at Gilling, the mound of
which has not long been levelled. The mound at Halton was the seat of Earl
Tosti. At Berry Banks, near Stone, dwelt Wulfer, Lord of Mercia. The chief
seats of the English lords of Hallamshire are not known, but in that district
the latter thanes were Waltheof, Tosti, Sweyn Lord of Sheffield, and Harold,
the passage of a river, the chronicle mentions Nottingham and those on the
Lea, and others at Hertford, Bedford, Stamford, and Buckingham.
Unfortunately, none of these are perfect. At Nottingham and on the Lea
both mounds have long been removed; one is remembered at Stamford and
Buckingham, and one may still be seen at Hertford. But the only double
mounds remaining to show how, in the tenth century, the English defended
the passage of a river, are those at York, which are not mentioned in the
chronicle.
It appears then, that setting aside works that have not been identified, or
which have been destroyed before note was taken of them, there are above a
score of burhs, the date of the erection of which, and the name of the
founder, are entered in a trustworthy record, and which are still to be seen.
What then is a burh? A burh is a moated mound with a table top, and a base
court, also moated, either appended to one side of it, or within which it
stands. But the burhs, the dates of which are on record, and which are thus
described, are but a very few of those found all over England, in the
lowlands of Scotland, and on the marches bordering on Wales, which from
their precise similarity in character to those actually identified must be
assumed to be of like date and origin, and may therefore safely be attributed
to the ninth and tenth and possibly to the eighth centuries, and to the
English people, that is to the Northern settlers generally, as distinguished
from the Britons and the Romans.
It happens also that, in very many cases where these burhs are found,
they can be shown to have been the “caput” or centre of an estate. It is
probable that this was always the case, but as a rule it is only with respect to
the very large estates that this can be proved from records. Thus the mound
of Wallingford was the seat of Wigod, whose heiress married Robert
D’Oyley; Bourne or Brum was held by Earl Morcar in 870; Edwin, Earl of
Mercia, Lord of Strafford Wapentake, in Yorkshire, had an “aula” at
Laughton-en-le-Morthen, and Conyngsborough was the centre of a royal
fee. The English Lord of Richmondshire had a seat at Gilling, the mound of
which has not long been levelled. The mound at Halton was the seat of Earl
Tosti. At Berry Banks, near Stone, dwelt Wulfer, Lord of Mercia. The chief
seats of the English lords of Hallamshire are not known, but in that district
the latter thanes were Waltheof, Tosti, Sweyn Lord of Sheffield, and Harold,
Page 36
whose seats must be sought for in the mounds and banks of Castle Hill and
Castle Bailey, near Bradford; Castle Hill, at the meeting of the Sheaf and
Don; Tickhill, Wincobank, and Mexborough, all moated mounds; also in
Lancashire and Yorkshire are Melling and Hornby in Lonsdale, Castle Hills
at Black Bourton, Robin Hood’s butt at Clapham, and Sedbury or Sedda’s
burh, a well-known mound with oval courts, Castle-dykes at Ledescal and
Langwith, Maiden Castle at Grinton, and Kirkby Malessant. The great
mound at Clare in Suffolk was the fortified seat of Earl Aluric, who held an
enormous estate in that district. Eye, in the same county of Suffolk, the seat
of Earl Edric, has a fine mound, as have Thetford and Haughley. The hill of
Hedingham and that of Norwich are natural, but the latter was raised
artificially and fortified with a ditch and horseshoe appendages, probably in
the ninth or tenth centuries. Dudley also was a great English residence, as
was Bennington mound in Hertfordshire. Hereford was fortified by the
great Harold, Ewyas by another Harold; Kilpeck and Richard’s Castle were
also early seats, as were the mounds of Clun, Oswestry, and Whittington, in
Shropshire. In Scotland upon the mound called the “Butte of Dunsinane,”
tradition places the residence of Macbeth early in the eleventh century. The
butte stands within an oval area defended, says Pennant, by banks and
ditches. Opposite Kingussie on the Spey is a very curious natural mound,
rising on three sides out of the marshes of the river, and which is known to
have been the residence of the celebrated Wolf of Badenoch. There is also a
moated mound with appended courts on the banks of the Clyde.
Castle Bailey, near Bradford; Castle Hill, at the meeting of the Sheaf and
Don; Tickhill, Wincobank, and Mexborough, all moated mounds; also in
Lancashire and Yorkshire are Melling and Hornby in Lonsdale, Castle Hills
at Black Bourton, Robin Hood’s butt at Clapham, and Sedbury or Sedda’s
burh, a well-known mound with oval courts, Castle-dykes at Ledescal and
Langwith, Maiden Castle at Grinton, and Kirkby Malessant. The great
mound at Clare in Suffolk was the fortified seat of Earl Aluric, who held an
enormous estate in that district. Eye, in the same county of Suffolk, the seat
of Earl Edric, has a fine mound, as have Thetford and Haughley. The hill of
Hedingham and that of Norwich are natural, but the latter was raised
artificially and fortified with a ditch and horseshoe appendages, probably in
the ninth or tenth centuries. Dudley also was a great English residence, as
was Bennington mound in Hertfordshire. Hereford was fortified by the
great Harold, Ewyas by another Harold; Kilpeck and Richard’s Castle were
also early seats, as were the mounds of Clun, Oswestry, and Whittington, in
Shropshire. In Scotland upon the mound called the “Butte of Dunsinane,”
tradition places the residence of Macbeth early in the eleventh century. The
butte stands within an oval area defended, says Pennant, by banks and
ditches. Opposite Kingussie on the Spey is a very curious natural mound,
rising on three sides out of the marshes of the river, and which is known to
have been the residence of the celebrated Wolf of Badenoch. There is also a
moated mound with appended courts on the banks of the Clyde.
Page 37
LAUGHTON-EN-LE-MORTHEN
The burhs are mentioned in the early laws of England, but by this time
the signification of the word had become extended, so that it was frequently
applied not only to a moated mound but to the town that had sprung up
around it. By the laws of Æthelstan, every burh was to be repaired within
fourteen days after the Rogation days, and money was allowed to be coined
at royal burhs. By the laws of Edmund the king’s burh was a place of
The burhs are mentioned in the early laws of England, but by this time
the signification of the word had become extended, so that it was frequently
applied not only to a moated mound but to the town that had sprung up
around it. By the laws of Æthelstan, every burh was to be repaired within
fourteen days after the Rogation days, and money was allowed to be coined
at royal burhs. By the laws of Edmund the king’s burh was a place of
Page 38
refuge, and under those of Æthelred, he who fought in a king’s burh was
liable to death. Burh-bryce was the violation of a castle or dwelling. Burh-
bote, a payment for keeping burhs or fortresses in a state of defence, was a
branch of the well-known “trinoda necessitas.” Originally, the English burh
was a fortified house, the “Domus defensabilis” of Domesday, the “Aula,”
the German “Saal,” of the owner of the surrounding estate or manor, which
the tenants were bound to defend; of which the designation may sometimes
be Norman, but the thing designated is undoubtedly of far earlier origin.
The term burh naturally became extended to the cluster of surrounding huts,
and a hedge with a ditch was their primary enclosure, the repair of which is
provided for in very early Saxon laws. A good stout hedge, even of
quickset, is not to be despised, and the cactus and bamboo hedges of India
will turn a band of soldiers. The word “Haia” is not infrequent in
Domesday, and it there means an enclosure into which wild beasts were
driven, “Haia in qua capiebantur feratæ.” It was also used for the enclosure
of a park, as the Haye Park, at Knaresborough, and the Hawe Park attached
to Skipton Castle. King Ida’s hedge at Bamborough was for the defence of
annexed pasture lands, for the castle scarce needed any such addition to its
surpassing strength. The word was also extensively used in Normandy, both
for a defence and for an enclosure. One of the old Herefordshire castles
bears the name of Hay.
liable to death. Burh-bryce was the violation of a castle or dwelling. Burh-
bote, a payment for keeping burhs or fortresses in a state of defence, was a
branch of the well-known “trinoda necessitas.” Originally, the English burh
was a fortified house, the “Domus defensabilis” of Domesday, the “Aula,”
the German “Saal,” of the owner of the surrounding estate or manor, which
the tenants were bound to defend; of which the designation may sometimes
be Norman, but the thing designated is undoubtedly of far earlier origin.
The term burh naturally became extended to the cluster of surrounding huts,
and a hedge with a ditch was their primary enclosure, the repair of which is
provided for in very early Saxon laws. A good stout hedge, even of
quickset, is not to be despised, and the cactus and bamboo hedges of India
will turn a band of soldiers. The word “Haia” is not infrequent in
Domesday, and it there means an enclosure into which wild beasts were
driven, “Haia in qua capiebantur feratæ.” It was also used for the enclosure
of a park, as the Haye Park, at Knaresborough, and the Hawe Park attached
to Skipton Castle. King Ida’s hedge at Bamborough was for the defence of
annexed pasture lands, for the castle scarce needed any such addition to its
surpassing strength. The word was also extensively used in Normandy, both
for a defence and for an enclosure. One of the old Herefordshire castles
bears the name of Hay.
Page 39
CASTLE HILL MEXBOROUGH
The Edictum Pistense of Charles the Bald, in 864 (cap. i.), expressly
orders all “Castella et firmitates et haias,” made without his license, to be
destroyed, “disfactas,” because they were injurious to the district. “Vicini et
circummanentes exinde multas deprædationes et impedimenta sustinent”
(“Rerum Gallicarum Scriptores,” vii., 677). Hedges therefore were not
always mere enclosures, but sometimes a military defence.
These mounds, where they have descended to us, and have undergone no
change at the hands of the Norman architect, are mere green hillocks, clear
indeed in their simplicity, though having lost by time the sharpness of their
profile, and more or less of their height and of the depth of their ditches. No
masonry has ever been observed upon them which could by any possibility
be attributed to their founders, or which could be supposed to be part of
their original design. It is evident, however, that the earthwork was only the
support of some additional defence. On the mound was certainly a
residence, and both its crest and base, as well as the appended courts, must
The Edictum Pistense of Charles the Bald, in 864 (cap. i.), expressly
orders all “Castella et firmitates et haias,” made without his license, to be
destroyed, “disfactas,” because they were injurious to the district. “Vicini et
circummanentes exinde multas deprædationes et impedimenta sustinent”
(“Rerum Gallicarum Scriptores,” vii., 677). Hedges therefore were not
always mere enclosures, but sometimes a military defence.
These mounds, where they have descended to us, and have undergone no
change at the hands of the Norman architect, are mere green hillocks, clear
indeed in their simplicity, though having lost by time the sharpness of their
profile, and more or less of their height and of the depth of their ditches. No
masonry has ever been observed upon them which could by any possibility
be attributed to their founders, or which could be supposed to be part of
their original design. It is evident, however, that the earthwork was only the
support of some additional defence. On the mound was certainly a
residence, and both its crest and base, as well as the appended courts, must
Page 40
have been encircled by some sort of barrier besides the earth-bank. We read
that Towcester was defended by a wall, which however was built very
quickly, and probably was like a field wall, without mortar. But with or
without mortar, no wall could have been placed upon a fresh heap of earth,
and that spoken of must have stood upon the natural ground at or around the
base of the mound. No doubt Exeter was walled by Æthelstan, and
Colchester had walls, partly, as we see, Roman, but partly no doubt,
English; and Derby had gates, though of what material is not stated. At
Corfe is some masonry, certainly older than the Conquest, and part of its
outer defences; but Corfe is a natural hill. It is well known that the English
were from a remote period conversant with masonry, and constructed
churches of stone or timber as suited them best; and nothing is more natural
than that they should have employed the former where the object was to
resist an attack. But upon a burh, or upon an artificial earthwork of any
height, masonry of any kind was obviously out of the question. Timber, and
timber alone, would have been the proper material. Timber was always at
hand, and it was a material of which, possibly from their early maritime
habits, the English were very fond. Also the rapidity with which these burhs
were constructed shows that timber must have been largely employed. They
were thrown up, completed, attacked, burnt, and restored, all within a few
months.
There are not wanting descriptions of these timber-defended works. M.
de Caumont cites a curious passage from Ernaldus Nigellus, an author of
the ninth century, who relates an expedition under Louis le Debonnaire
against the Breton king, Marman, whose strongholds were protected by
ditches and palisades.
“Est locus hinc silvis, hinc flumine cinctus amoeno.
Sepibus et sulcis atque palude situs.”
Intus opima domus....
This however was a Breton work, and there is no mention of a mound.
Two centuries later the mound was in general use, and another quotation,
taken also from M. de Caumont, from the life of John, a canonised prelate
of the church of Terouane, by Archdeacon Colmier, gives an account of the
fortress of Merchen, near Dixmude, in which the material employed and the
mode of construction are clearly set forth. The original, taken from the
“Acta Sanctorum,” is appended to this paper, and is in truth a description of
that Towcester was defended by a wall, which however was built very
quickly, and probably was like a field wall, without mortar. But with or
without mortar, no wall could have been placed upon a fresh heap of earth,
and that spoken of must have stood upon the natural ground at or around the
base of the mound. No doubt Exeter was walled by Æthelstan, and
Colchester had walls, partly, as we see, Roman, but partly no doubt,
English; and Derby had gates, though of what material is not stated. At
Corfe is some masonry, certainly older than the Conquest, and part of its
outer defences; but Corfe is a natural hill. It is well known that the English
were from a remote period conversant with masonry, and constructed
churches of stone or timber as suited them best; and nothing is more natural
than that they should have employed the former where the object was to
resist an attack. But upon a burh, or upon an artificial earthwork of any
height, masonry of any kind was obviously out of the question. Timber, and
timber alone, would have been the proper material. Timber was always at
hand, and it was a material of which, possibly from their early maritime
habits, the English were very fond. Also the rapidity with which these burhs
were constructed shows that timber must have been largely employed. They
were thrown up, completed, attacked, burnt, and restored, all within a few
months.
There are not wanting descriptions of these timber-defended works. M.
de Caumont cites a curious passage from Ernaldus Nigellus, an author of
the ninth century, who relates an expedition under Louis le Debonnaire
against the Breton king, Marman, whose strongholds were protected by
ditches and palisades.
“Est locus hinc silvis, hinc flumine cinctus amoeno.
Sepibus et sulcis atque palude situs.”
Intus opima domus....
This however was a Breton work, and there is no mention of a mound.
Two centuries later the mound was in general use, and another quotation,
taken also from M. de Caumont, from the life of John, a canonised prelate
of the church of Terouane, by Archdeacon Colmier, gives an account of the
fortress of Merchen, near Dixmude, in which the material employed and the
mode of construction are clearly set forth. The original, taken from the
“Acta Sanctorum,” is appended to this paper, and is in truth a description of
Page 41
a moated mound, with its fence and turrets of timber, its central dwelling,
and the bridge across the ditch rising to the top of the mound. The
description is illustrated by the representation of the taking of Dinan, in the
Bayeux tapestry. There is seen the conical mound surmounted by a timber
building, which two men with torches are attempting to set on fire, while
others are ascending by a steep bridge which spans the moat, and rises to a
gateway on the crest of the mound.
Many of these mounds under the name of motes (motæ) retained their
timber defences to the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and that too on the
Shropshire and Welsh border, crowded with castles of masonry.
Ducange defines mota as “Collis, seu tumulus, cui inædificatum est
castellum. Olim castella numquam nisi in eminentissimis locis extruebantur.
In Flandria vero, humili ac planissima regione, congestis undequaque
terrarum molibus, fieri solebant motæ, quibus arces imponerentur”; and
adds that mota is the same work known in Dauphigny as “poypia,” and in
Auvergne as “mote seigneuriale.” From Lambertus Ardensis he quotes:
“Motam altissimam, sive dunjonem eminentem in munitionis signum
firmavit, et in aggerem coacervavit.” And Orderic tells that, in 1098, Pain
de Mont-Doubleau delivered up to William Rufus, “Fortissimam, quam
apud Balaonem possidebat, motam, per quam totum oppidum adversariis
subactum paruit.” And in 1119, Fulk of Anjou, with 500 knights laid siege,
“ad motam Galterii,” which the king had fortified. Also near Ponte-Corvo
was “Motam magnam, quam faciebat facere Dominus Canis cum mulfossis
et tajatis ad claudendum Paduanos,” like the great mound at Rochester, just
outside the city wall. In the Roman de Rou:—
“Hubert de Rie est à sa porte
Entre le mostier et sa mote.”
“Mostier” being the church. Also in “La Bataille des Sept Arts”:—
“Qui fu fier cum chastel sur mote.”
Also the Consuetudines Trecensis speak of “Le principal chastel ou maison-
fort, mote, ou place de maison seigneuriale”: and in Colletus, “Il y a des
masures qui ont des droits très considérables; nous avons des simple poypes
[ce sont des terres élevées et fossoyées] qui ont les plus beaux droits.” The
History of Dauphigny has, in 1290, “Item castrum seu Poypiam de
and the bridge across the ditch rising to the top of the mound. The
description is illustrated by the representation of the taking of Dinan, in the
Bayeux tapestry. There is seen the conical mound surmounted by a timber
building, which two men with torches are attempting to set on fire, while
others are ascending by a steep bridge which spans the moat, and rises to a
gateway on the crest of the mound.
Many of these mounds under the name of motes (motæ) retained their
timber defences to the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and that too on the
Shropshire and Welsh border, crowded with castles of masonry.
Ducange defines mota as “Collis, seu tumulus, cui inædificatum est
castellum. Olim castella numquam nisi in eminentissimis locis extruebantur.
In Flandria vero, humili ac planissima regione, congestis undequaque
terrarum molibus, fieri solebant motæ, quibus arces imponerentur”; and
adds that mota is the same work known in Dauphigny as “poypia,” and in
Auvergne as “mote seigneuriale.” From Lambertus Ardensis he quotes:
“Motam altissimam, sive dunjonem eminentem in munitionis signum
firmavit, et in aggerem coacervavit.” And Orderic tells that, in 1098, Pain
de Mont-Doubleau delivered up to William Rufus, “Fortissimam, quam
apud Balaonem possidebat, motam, per quam totum oppidum adversariis
subactum paruit.” And in 1119, Fulk of Anjou, with 500 knights laid siege,
“ad motam Galterii,” which the king had fortified. Also near Ponte-Corvo
was “Motam magnam, quam faciebat facere Dominus Canis cum mulfossis
et tajatis ad claudendum Paduanos,” like the great mound at Rochester, just
outside the city wall. In the Roman de Rou:—
“Hubert de Rie est à sa porte
Entre le mostier et sa mote.”
“Mostier” being the church. Also in “La Bataille des Sept Arts”:—
“Qui fu fier cum chastel sur mote.”
Also the Consuetudines Trecensis speak of “Le principal chastel ou maison-
fort, mote, ou place de maison seigneuriale”: and in Colletus, “Il y a des
masures qui ont des droits très considérables; nous avons des simple poypes
[ce sont des terres élevées et fossoyées] qui ont les plus beaux droits.” The
History of Dauphigny has, in 1290, “Item castrum seu Poypiam de
Page 42
Montlyopart; item castrum seu fortalicium de Pusigniano.” Ducange is
copious on this subject.
The use of the mound as the site of the “maison seigneuriale” was
general in England, and several such—as Barwick-in-Elmet and Laughton-
en-le-Morthen—are still pointed out as the seats of early English nobles and
kings; and of others thrown up primarily for defence, as Tamworth and
Leicester, and afterwards occupied as royal and other residences, the date is
on record.
After the Conquest, the English term “burh” seems to have given place to
the Latin “mota,” at least in public records. It is true that in a charter by the
Conqueror, given by Rymer, occurs “Et in burgis, et muro-vallatis, et in
castellis,” but “burgis” may be held to mean borough towns. In the charter
of Matilda, 1141, bestowing the earldom of Hereford on Milo de
Gloucester, she grants “Motam Hereford et cum toto castello,” words which
evidently refer to the mound, now destroyed, and not, as has been supposed,
to the right to hold a moot there. Also, in the convention between Stephen
and Henry of Anjou the distinction is drawn between “Turris Londinensis et
‘Mota de Windesora,’” London having a square keep or tower, and Windsor
a shell keep upon a mound. Probably when, as at Durham, keeps of
masonry superseded the “ligna tabulata firmissime compacta,” the fortress
ceased to be called a mote, and became a castle; but in very many instances
this change was a long time in coming about, and in many of the less
important and private residences it never occurred at all. Thus, the moated
mounds on the Upper Severn show no trace whatever of masonry, and as
late as the reign of Henry III., 159 years after the Conquest, and years too of
incessant battling with a warlike and sleepless foe, timber was still the
material of their defences. The Close Roll of 9 Henry III., 30 May, 1225,
thus addresses the Custos of Montgomery:—
“Rex etc. dilecto et fideli suo Godescallo de Maghelins salutem.
Precipimus tibi quod ex parte nostra firmiter precipias omnibus illis qui
motas habent in valle de Muntgumery quod sine dilatione motas suas bonis
bretaschiis firmari faciant ad securitatem et defensionem suam et parcium
illarum.”[1] And not only in the defences of these lesser motes and fortified
private houses did timber play an important part. Turrets of timber were
prepared for the castle of Montgomery, and even Shrewsbury itself, the seat
successively of three most powerful earls and the chief place in their
copious on this subject.
The use of the mound as the site of the “maison seigneuriale” was
general in England, and several such—as Barwick-in-Elmet and Laughton-
en-le-Morthen—are still pointed out as the seats of early English nobles and
kings; and of others thrown up primarily for defence, as Tamworth and
Leicester, and afterwards occupied as royal and other residences, the date is
on record.
After the Conquest, the English term “burh” seems to have given place to
the Latin “mota,” at least in public records. It is true that in a charter by the
Conqueror, given by Rymer, occurs “Et in burgis, et muro-vallatis, et in
castellis,” but “burgis” may be held to mean borough towns. In the charter
of Matilda, 1141, bestowing the earldom of Hereford on Milo de
Gloucester, she grants “Motam Hereford et cum toto castello,” words which
evidently refer to the mound, now destroyed, and not, as has been supposed,
to the right to hold a moot there. Also, in the convention between Stephen
and Henry of Anjou the distinction is drawn between “Turris Londinensis et
‘Mota de Windesora,’” London having a square keep or tower, and Windsor
a shell keep upon a mound. Probably when, as at Durham, keeps of
masonry superseded the “ligna tabulata firmissime compacta,” the fortress
ceased to be called a mote, and became a castle; but in very many instances
this change was a long time in coming about, and in many of the less
important and private residences it never occurred at all. Thus, the moated
mounds on the Upper Severn show no trace whatever of masonry, and as
late as the reign of Henry III., 159 years after the Conquest, and years too of
incessant battling with a warlike and sleepless foe, timber was still the
material of their defences. The Close Roll of 9 Henry III., 30 May, 1225,
thus addresses the Custos of Montgomery:—
“Rex etc. dilecto et fideli suo Godescallo de Maghelins salutem.
Precipimus tibi quod ex parte nostra firmiter precipias omnibus illis qui
motas habent in valle de Muntgumery quod sine dilatione motas suas bonis
bretaschiis firmari faciant ad securitatem et defensionem suam et parcium
illarum.”[1] And not only in the defences of these lesser motes and fortified
private houses did timber play an important part. Turrets of timber were
prepared for the castle of Montgomery, and even Shrewsbury itself, the seat
successively of three most powerful earls and the chief place in their
Page 43
earldom, was by no means wholly a work in masonry. In the reign of
Edward I. the jurors appointed to report upon the condition of the castle,
state: “Quod unus magnus turris ligneus qui edificatur in castro Salop
corruit in terram tempore domini Uriani de St. Petro tunc vice comitis et
meremium ejusdem turris tempore suo et temporibus aliorum vice comitum
preterea existencium ita consummatur et destruitur quod nichil de illo
remansit in magnum dampnum domini Regis et deterioracionem ejusdem
castri.” In a French charter of 1329 occurs, “Premierement le motte et les
fossez d’entour le motte de Maiex,” and in 1331, “Le motte de mon Manoir
de Caieux et les fossez entour.” It appears, then, that from an early period,
certainly from the ninth century, it was a common practice in constructing a
strong place, whether a private dwelling or a military post, to place it upon
the summit of a mound, and to surround both the mound and an appended
enclosure with defences of earth, and that in many, probably for some time
in all, cases the building within and the defences around such places were
of timber, and indeed, so far as they stood on made ground, necessarily so.
Sometimes probably, when the front was more extended, as when a small
pasture ground attached to the main fortress was to be protected from
sudden assaults, recourse was had to a “haia” or “clausura.”
In viewing one of these moated mounds we have only to imagine a
central timber house on the top of the mound, built of half trunks of trees
set upright between two waling pieces at the top and bottom, like the old
church at Greensted, with a close paling around it along the edge of the
table top, perhaps a second line at its base, and a third along the outer edge
of the ditch, and others not so strong upon the edges of the outer courts,
with bridges of planks across the ditches, and huts of “wattle and dab” or of
timber within the enclosures, and we shall have a very fair idea of a
fortified dwelling of a thane or franklin in England, or of the corresponding
classes in Normandy from the eighth or ninth centuries down to the date of
the Norman Conquest.
The existence of these mounds in distinct Welsh territory is very curious
and requires explanation. That this form of dwelling was in common use
among the Welsh is certainly not the case. Where moated mounds occur in
Wales it is usually on the border, or near the sea-coast, or in or near the
open valleys accessible to the English, which the English or Northmen are
known to have invaded in the eighth and ninth centuries. The mound near
Edward I. the jurors appointed to report upon the condition of the castle,
state: “Quod unus magnus turris ligneus qui edificatur in castro Salop
corruit in terram tempore domini Uriani de St. Petro tunc vice comitis et
meremium ejusdem turris tempore suo et temporibus aliorum vice comitum
preterea existencium ita consummatur et destruitur quod nichil de illo
remansit in magnum dampnum domini Regis et deterioracionem ejusdem
castri.” In a French charter of 1329 occurs, “Premierement le motte et les
fossez d’entour le motte de Maiex,” and in 1331, “Le motte de mon Manoir
de Caieux et les fossez entour.” It appears, then, that from an early period,
certainly from the ninth century, it was a common practice in constructing a
strong place, whether a private dwelling or a military post, to place it upon
the summit of a mound, and to surround both the mound and an appended
enclosure with defences of earth, and that in many, probably for some time
in all, cases the building within and the defences around such places were
of timber, and indeed, so far as they stood on made ground, necessarily so.
Sometimes probably, when the front was more extended, as when a small
pasture ground attached to the main fortress was to be protected from
sudden assaults, recourse was had to a “haia” or “clausura.”
In viewing one of these moated mounds we have only to imagine a
central timber house on the top of the mound, built of half trunks of trees
set upright between two waling pieces at the top and bottom, like the old
church at Greensted, with a close paling around it along the edge of the
table top, perhaps a second line at its base, and a third along the outer edge
of the ditch, and others not so strong upon the edges of the outer courts,
with bridges of planks across the ditches, and huts of “wattle and dab” or of
timber within the enclosures, and we shall have a very fair idea of a
fortified dwelling of a thane or franklin in England, or of the corresponding
classes in Normandy from the eighth or ninth centuries down to the date of
the Norman Conquest.
The existence of these mounds in distinct Welsh territory is very curious
and requires explanation. That this form of dwelling was in common use
among the Welsh is certainly not the case. Where moated mounds occur in
Wales it is usually on the border, or near the sea-coast, or in or near the
open valleys accessible to the English, which the English or Northmen are
known to have invaded in the eighth and ninth centuries. The mound near
Page 44
Llanidloes is an exception, being distinctly within the hills. But that of
Tafolwern, from which the Welsh princes dated several charters, is near the
open valley. That of Talybont, whence Llewelyn dated a letter to the
Archbishop of Canterbury in 1275, and which was afterwards visited by
Edward the First, is on a plain within easy reach of the sea. Hên Domen and
Rhos Diarbed on the Upper Severn are also good examples. Still, as the
Welsh princes intermarried and had frequent communication with the
English, they must have been familiar with a form of fortification very
simple and easy to construct, and yet very capable of being held against a
sudden attack. It must be observed, also, that the English hold upon the
Welsh border was of a very fluctuating description, and the Welshmen must
not only have been perfectly familiar with the English method of
construction, but from time to time have been actually in possession of their
strongholds. That the Welsh used timber for defensive purposes appears
from their law by which the vassals were to attend at the lord’s castle for its
repairs or for rebuilding, each with his axe in his hand. In some cases in
these Border works there is scarcely any mound, at others the mound is low
and hollow in the centre. Caer Aeron and another small earthwork near
Builth seem to have been the earthen bases of a mere circular wigwam.
Caer Aeron cannot have been a mere temporary structure, as the
circumscribing ditch has been cut with considerable labour in the rock.
It is very evident, both from the existence of Offa’s dyke, and from the
immense number of these moated mounds thrown up along its course, that
the English had early and long possession of large tracts of the border
territory. Offa ruled over Mercia from a.d. 757 to 796, and his dyke extends
from the mouth of the Wye to that of the Dee. At its northern part, for about
forty miles, is a second work, known as Wat’s Dyke, a little in its rear, and
thought to be a somewhat earlier work, also by Offa. Before the actual line
of a work so galling to the spirit of a turbulent people could have been
decided upon there must have been many years of contest along the border,
and the English must have had something like permanent possession of the
land on either side, and have held estates of which the mounds still existing
were the “capita” or chief seats. The dyke, it should be remembered, was
rather a civil boundary than a military defence.
It is further to be remarked that moated mounds corresponding precisely
in pattern to those in England, are very numerous in Normandy. In size they
Tafolwern, from which the Welsh princes dated several charters, is near the
open valley. That of Talybont, whence Llewelyn dated a letter to the
Archbishop of Canterbury in 1275, and which was afterwards visited by
Edward the First, is on a plain within easy reach of the sea. Hên Domen and
Rhos Diarbed on the Upper Severn are also good examples. Still, as the
Welsh princes intermarried and had frequent communication with the
English, they must have been familiar with a form of fortification very
simple and easy to construct, and yet very capable of being held against a
sudden attack. It must be observed, also, that the English hold upon the
Welsh border was of a very fluctuating description, and the Welshmen must
not only have been perfectly familiar with the English method of
construction, but from time to time have been actually in possession of their
strongholds. That the Welsh used timber for defensive purposes appears
from their law by which the vassals were to attend at the lord’s castle for its
repairs or for rebuilding, each with his axe in his hand. In some cases in
these Border works there is scarcely any mound, at others the mound is low
and hollow in the centre. Caer Aeron and another small earthwork near
Builth seem to have been the earthen bases of a mere circular wigwam.
Caer Aeron cannot have been a mere temporary structure, as the
circumscribing ditch has been cut with considerable labour in the rock.
It is very evident, both from the existence of Offa’s dyke, and from the
immense number of these moated mounds thrown up along its course, that
the English had early and long possession of large tracts of the border
territory. Offa ruled over Mercia from a.d. 757 to 796, and his dyke extends
from the mouth of the Wye to that of the Dee. At its northern part, for about
forty miles, is a second work, known as Wat’s Dyke, a little in its rear, and
thought to be a somewhat earlier work, also by Offa. Before the actual line
of a work so galling to the spirit of a turbulent people could have been
decided upon there must have been many years of contest along the border,
and the English must have had something like permanent possession of the
land on either side, and have held estates of which the mounds still existing
were the “capita” or chief seats. The dyke, it should be remembered, was
rather a civil boundary than a military defence.
It is further to be remarked that moated mounds corresponding precisely
in pattern to those in England, are very numerous in Normandy. In size they
Page 45
vary within much the same limits. All have or had a proper ditch, some, as
Briquessart and Des Olivets, stand in the centre of the court, some at one
end, others on the edge. The court is sometimes circular, most commonly
oblong, very rarely indeed rectangular. The outer enclosures have their
ditches, which communicate with those of the inner defences. M. de
Caumont gives a list of fifty-four of these mounds, within a radius of sixty
miles from Caen, and since he wrote many more have been observed. These
also were, from an early period, the seats of great landowners, and from
very many of them came the knights and barons who accompanied William
to England, and there settled in posts very similar. Sir F. Palgrave gives a
list of 131 of these fortified residences in the Cotentin, the Avranchin, and
the Bessin, which includes only six of those mentioned by de Caumont. A
large number of those earthworks seem never to have had, at any time,
defences of masonry. Others, upon the mounds, had Norman shell keeps.
Besides the British theory, these mounds have been claimed as
sepulchral. It is of course possible that such mounds as Arundel or
Marlborough may have been originally sepulchral, and therefore older than
their defensive additions. To few if any has the crucial experiment of
opening them been applied; but this is not a very probable explanation, and
could certainly not be applied to those mounds as a class. Among many
other reasons for taking this view, it may be observed that sepulchral
mounds are always artificial, whereas moated mounds are often natural, and
still more frequently partly so. No one could suppose Hawarden, or
Dunster, or Montacute, to be sepulchres, and yet these are as much moated
mounds as Arundel and Tonbridge. Moreover, sepulchral mounds are not
often placed where a defensive work is obviously needed, and most rude
nations are superstitious, and would object to dwell upon or around a grave.
The Tynewald in Man, Cwichelmsley Knowe in Berkshire, and a work
upon the Clyde in Lanarkshire, are the only known sepulchral mounds
which have been employed for other purposes, and of these the two former
are judicial, not residential. The barrows round York, though smaller than
most burhs, are big enough to have carried residences, but do not appear to
have been so employed. Moreover, the common testimony of the country
has generally given to the moated mounds some name, such as Castle Hill
or Burh, indicative of their military origin.
Briquessart and Des Olivets, stand in the centre of the court, some at one
end, others on the edge. The court is sometimes circular, most commonly
oblong, very rarely indeed rectangular. The outer enclosures have their
ditches, which communicate with those of the inner defences. M. de
Caumont gives a list of fifty-four of these mounds, within a radius of sixty
miles from Caen, and since he wrote many more have been observed. These
also were, from an early period, the seats of great landowners, and from
very many of them came the knights and barons who accompanied William
to England, and there settled in posts very similar. Sir F. Palgrave gives a
list of 131 of these fortified residences in the Cotentin, the Avranchin, and
the Bessin, which includes only six of those mentioned by de Caumont. A
large number of those earthworks seem never to have had, at any time,
defences of masonry. Others, upon the mounds, had Norman shell keeps.
Besides the British theory, these mounds have been claimed as
sepulchral. It is of course possible that such mounds as Arundel or
Marlborough may have been originally sepulchral, and therefore older than
their defensive additions. To few if any has the crucial experiment of
opening them been applied; but this is not a very probable explanation, and
could certainly not be applied to those mounds as a class. Among many
other reasons for taking this view, it may be observed that sepulchral
mounds are always artificial, whereas moated mounds are often natural, and
still more frequently partly so. No one could suppose Hawarden, or
Dunster, or Montacute, to be sepulchres, and yet these are as much moated
mounds as Arundel and Tonbridge. Moreover, sepulchral mounds are not
often placed where a defensive work is obviously needed, and most rude
nations are superstitious, and would object to dwell upon or around a grave.
The Tynewald in Man, Cwichelmsley Knowe in Berkshire, and a work
upon the Clyde in Lanarkshire, are the only known sepulchral mounds
which have been employed for other purposes, and of these the two former
are judicial, not residential. The barrows round York, though smaller than
most burhs, are big enough to have carried residences, but do not appear to
have been so employed. Moreover, the common testimony of the country
has generally given to the moated mounds some name, such as Castle Hill
or Burh, indicative of their military origin.
Page 46
It has been observed that moated mounds are usually near the parish
church. This might be expected, since the parish, like the manor, was
usually a private estate, and the church was originally provided by the lord
for the accommodation of his tenants and himself.
There is a class of mounds due probably to the same people with those
above described, but very seldom moated, and not usually accompanied by
base courts and enclosures. These are the moot-hills, used for civil
purposes, as the holding of courts-leet, of which the mound at Barton, in
Northamptonshire, is a fine example. They are not uncommon. There is one
near Kenilworth, close to Stoneleigh Church, one at Hawick, one called the
Mote Hill, in Hamilton Park; there is also one on the right bank of the
Neckar, below Heidelberg. Sometimes they are called toot-hills; hence
Tothill Fields, though the mound is gone.
In claiming for these moated mounds a northern and in Britain an English
origin it would be too much to assert that in no other class of works is the
mound employed, or by no other people than the Northmen; but it may be
safely laid down that in no other class of early fortification does the mound
occur as the leading and typical feature. In Roman and Norman, and
possibly in purely British works, the mound may be occasionally seen, like
the cavalier in the works of Vauban, as at Kenilworth, or as an outwork, as
at Caerphilly, or it may be employed to cover or divide an entrance; but
such mounds are of irregular shape, mere detached and elevated parts of the
general bank, and not likely to be confounded with the moated mound
described above.
Appendix.
Vita Sti Johannis Epis: Morinorum. Ob: 1130.
[Acta Sanctorum, Januarii 27.]
Contigit ut in villa, cui Morchem vocabulum est, hospitii
mansionem haberet [Johannes]. Erat autem secus atrium ecclesiae
munitio quaedam quam castrum vel municipium dicere possumus
valde excelsa, juxta morem terrae illius, a domino villae ipsius multis
retro annis extructa. Mos namque est ditioribus quibuscunque regionis
church. This might be expected, since the parish, like the manor, was
usually a private estate, and the church was originally provided by the lord
for the accommodation of his tenants and himself.
There is a class of mounds due probably to the same people with those
above described, but very seldom moated, and not usually accompanied by
base courts and enclosures. These are the moot-hills, used for civil
purposes, as the holding of courts-leet, of which the mound at Barton, in
Northamptonshire, is a fine example. They are not uncommon. There is one
near Kenilworth, close to Stoneleigh Church, one at Hawick, one called the
Mote Hill, in Hamilton Park; there is also one on the right bank of the
Neckar, below Heidelberg. Sometimes they are called toot-hills; hence
Tothill Fields, though the mound is gone.
In claiming for these moated mounds a northern and in Britain an English
origin it would be too much to assert that in no other class of works is the
mound employed, or by no other people than the Northmen; but it may be
safely laid down that in no other class of early fortification does the mound
occur as the leading and typical feature. In Roman and Norman, and
possibly in purely British works, the mound may be occasionally seen, like
the cavalier in the works of Vauban, as at Kenilworth, or as an outwork, as
at Caerphilly, or it may be employed to cover or divide an entrance; but
such mounds are of irregular shape, mere detached and elevated parts of the
general bank, and not likely to be confounded with the moated mound
described above.
Appendix.
Vita Sti Johannis Epis: Morinorum. Ob: 1130.
[Acta Sanctorum, Januarii 27.]
Contigit ut in villa, cui Morchem vocabulum est, hospitii
mansionem haberet [Johannes]. Erat autem secus atrium ecclesiae
munitio quaedam quam castrum vel municipium dicere possumus
valde excelsa, juxta morem terrae illius, a domino villae ipsius multis
retro annis extructa. Mos namque est ditioribus quibuscunque regionis
Page 47
hujus hominibus et nobilioribus, eo quod maxime inimicitiis vacare
soleant exercendis et caedibus, ut ab hostibus eo modo maneant
tutiores, et potentia majore vel vincant pares, vel premant inferiores,
terrae aggerem quantae praevalent celsitudinis congerere eique fossam
quam late patentem, multamque profunditatis altitudinem habentem
circumfodere, et supremam ejusdem aggeris crepidinem vallo ex lignis
tabulatis firmissime confacto undique vice muri circummunire,
turribusque, secundum quod possibile fuerit, per gyrum dispositis,
intra vallum, domum vel, quae omnia despiciat, arcem in medio
aedificare, ita videlicet ut porta introitus ipsius villae non nisi per
pontem valeat adiri, qui ab exteriori labro fossae primum exoriens est
in processu paulatim elevatus, columnisque binis et binis, vel etiam
trinis altrinsecus per congrua spatia suffixis innixus, eo ascendendi
moderamine per transversum fossae consurgit, ut supremam aggeris
superficiem coaequando oram extremi marginis ejus, et in ea parte
limen prima fronte contingat.
In hujus-modi ergo asylo Pontifex, cum suo frequenti et reverendo
comitatu hospitali, quum ingentem populi turbam tam in ecclesia,
quam in atrio ejus, manus impositione, et sacri Chrismatis unctione
confirmasset, ut vestimenta mutaret, eo quod coemiterium humandis
fidelium corporibus benedicere statuisset ad hospitium regressus est,
unde illo, ut propositum perficeret opus, iterum descendente, et circa
medium pontis, triginta quinque vel eo amplius pedum, altitudinem
habentis, certa de causa subsistente, populique non modica caterva
ante et retro, dextra lævaque circumstipante, continuo antiqui
machinante hostis invidia, pons ponderi cessit, et dissipatus corruit,
magnamque illorum hominum turbam cum episcopo suo ad ima
dejicit; fragore autem ingenti e vestigio consecuto, transtris,
trabibusque tabulatis, et ruderibus magno cum impetu pariter et
strepitu concidentibus: nebula quaedam tenebrosa ita omnem illam
ruinam repente circumfudit, ut quid ageretur vix quisquam discernere
potuerit.
Translation.
It chanced that in a town called Merchem, Bishop John had a guest-
house. There was also close to the court of the church a strong place,
soleant exercendis et caedibus, ut ab hostibus eo modo maneant
tutiores, et potentia majore vel vincant pares, vel premant inferiores,
terrae aggerem quantae praevalent celsitudinis congerere eique fossam
quam late patentem, multamque profunditatis altitudinem habentem
circumfodere, et supremam ejusdem aggeris crepidinem vallo ex lignis
tabulatis firmissime confacto undique vice muri circummunire,
turribusque, secundum quod possibile fuerit, per gyrum dispositis,
intra vallum, domum vel, quae omnia despiciat, arcem in medio
aedificare, ita videlicet ut porta introitus ipsius villae non nisi per
pontem valeat adiri, qui ab exteriori labro fossae primum exoriens est
in processu paulatim elevatus, columnisque binis et binis, vel etiam
trinis altrinsecus per congrua spatia suffixis innixus, eo ascendendi
moderamine per transversum fossae consurgit, ut supremam aggeris
superficiem coaequando oram extremi marginis ejus, et in ea parte
limen prima fronte contingat.
In hujus-modi ergo asylo Pontifex, cum suo frequenti et reverendo
comitatu hospitali, quum ingentem populi turbam tam in ecclesia,
quam in atrio ejus, manus impositione, et sacri Chrismatis unctione
confirmasset, ut vestimenta mutaret, eo quod coemiterium humandis
fidelium corporibus benedicere statuisset ad hospitium regressus est,
unde illo, ut propositum perficeret opus, iterum descendente, et circa
medium pontis, triginta quinque vel eo amplius pedum, altitudinem
habentis, certa de causa subsistente, populique non modica caterva
ante et retro, dextra lævaque circumstipante, continuo antiqui
machinante hostis invidia, pons ponderi cessit, et dissipatus corruit,
magnamque illorum hominum turbam cum episcopo suo ad ima
dejicit; fragore autem ingenti e vestigio consecuto, transtris,
trabibusque tabulatis, et ruderibus magno cum impetu pariter et
strepitu concidentibus: nebula quaedam tenebrosa ita omnem illam
ruinam repente circumfudit, ut quid ageretur vix quisquam discernere
potuerit.
Translation.
It chanced that in a town called Merchem, Bishop John had a guest-
house. There was also close to the court of the church a strong place,
Page 48
which might be regarded as a castle or a municipium, very lofty, built
after the fashion of the country by the lord of the town many years ago.
For it was customary for the rich men and nobles of those parts,
because their chief occupation is the carrying on of feuds and
slaughters, in order that they may in this way be safe from enemies,
and may have the greater power for either conquering their equals or
keeping down their inferiors, to heap up a mound of earth as high as
they were able, and to dig round it a broad, open, and deep ditch, and
to girdle the whole upper edge of the mound, instead of a wall, with a
barrier of wooden planks, stoutly fixed together with numerous turrets
set round. Within was constructed a house or rather citadel,
commanding the whole, so that the gate of entry could only be
approached by a bridge, which first springing from the counterscarp of
the ditch, was gradually raised as it advanced, supported by sets of
piers, two, or even three, trussed on each side over convenient spans,
crossing the ditch with a managed ascent so as to reach the upper level
of the mound, landing at its edge on a level at the threshold of the gate.
In this retreat the bishop with his numerous and reverend retinue,
after having confirmed a vast crowd of people both in the church and
its court, by laying on of hands and the unction of the sacred chrism,
returned to his lodging that he might change his vestments, because he
had resolved to consecrate a cemetery for the burial of the bodies of
believers. When, in again descending from his lodging, in order to
effect the proposed work, he halted for some reason about the middle
of the bridge, which had there a height of thirty-five feet or more, the
people pressing behind and before, and on each side, straightway, the
malice of the old enemy so contriving, the bridge yielded to the weight
and fell shattered; and the crowd with the bishop fell to the bottom
with a great crash of joists, beams, and planks, with great force and
noise, while a thick dust at once enveloped the ruin so that scarce any
one could see what had happened.
The following is also curious:—
(Ludovicus Grossus, a.d. 1109.) “Puteolum regreditur antiquam
antecessorum suorum destitutam Motam castro jactu lapidis
propinquam, occupat. Castrum fundibalariorum, balistariorum,
saggitariorum, emissa pericula sustinentes; etc.”
after the fashion of the country by the lord of the town many years ago.
For it was customary for the rich men and nobles of those parts,
because their chief occupation is the carrying on of feuds and
slaughters, in order that they may in this way be safe from enemies,
and may have the greater power for either conquering their equals or
keeping down their inferiors, to heap up a mound of earth as high as
they were able, and to dig round it a broad, open, and deep ditch, and
to girdle the whole upper edge of the mound, instead of a wall, with a
barrier of wooden planks, stoutly fixed together with numerous turrets
set round. Within was constructed a house or rather citadel,
commanding the whole, so that the gate of entry could only be
approached by a bridge, which first springing from the counterscarp of
the ditch, was gradually raised as it advanced, supported by sets of
piers, two, or even three, trussed on each side over convenient spans,
crossing the ditch with a managed ascent so as to reach the upper level
of the mound, landing at its edge on a level at the threshold of the gate.
In this retreat the bishop with his numerous and reverend retinue,
after having confirmed a vast crowd of people both in the church and
its court, by laying on of hands and the unction of the sacred chrism,
returned to his lodging that he might change his vestments, because he
had resolved to consecrate a cemetery for the burial of the bodies of
believers. When, in again descending from his lodging, in order to
effect the proposed work, he halted for some reason about the middle
of the bridge, which had there a height of thirty-five feet or more, the
people pressing behind and before, and on each side, straightway, the
malice of the old enemy so contriving, the bridge yielded to the weight
and fell shattered; and the crowd with the bishop fell to the bottom
with a great crash of joists, beams, and planks, with great force and
noise, while a thick dust at once enveloped the ruin so that scarce any
one could see what had happened.
The following is also curious:—
(Ludovicus Grossus, a.d. 1109.) “Puteolum regreditur antiquam
antecessorum suorum destitutam Motam castro jactu lapidis
propinquam, occupat. Castrum fundibalariorum, balistariorum,
saggitariorum, emissa pericula sustinentes; etc.”
Page 49
CHAPTER III.
OF THE CASTLES OF ENGLAND AT THE CONQUEST AND UNDER THE
CONQUEROR.
IT has usually been assumed that the rapidity of William’s conquest was
due to the absence of strong places in England. There is, however, ground
for believing that England, in this respect, was exceedingly well provided,
—quite as well provided as Normandy; and that, with the possible
exception of a very few recently-constructed strongholds, the works in the
two countries were very similar in character. The older sites of the castles of
the barons in Normandy are nearly all ascertained, and are for the most part
distinguished by a moated mound with an appended court or courts also
moated. This simple and very effective form of defence has been shown to
have been in use among the Northern nations, invaders both of England and
the Continent, and in the ninth and tenth centuries was as common on the
banks of the Thames, the Humber, and the Severn, as on those of the Seine
and the Orne. It was in the eleventh century, and chiefly during the troubles
attendant upon the accession and minority of Duke William, that the
Normans seem to have adopted a new and more permanent description of
fortress, and the old-fashioned structure of timber began to be replaced by
walls and towers in masonry, and especially by keeps of that material. Of
these the best-known, because the most durable, form was the rectangular,
of which not above half a dozen examples can be shown with certainty to
have been constructed in Normandy before the latter part of the eleventh
century, and but very few, if any, before the English conquest; nor is there
known to be in Normandy any specimen of the polygonal or circular form
of keep as early as that event. De Caumont, indeed, attributes the
rectangular keep of Langeais, in which brick is largely used, to the year
992; but there is great reason to doubt this conclusion, and Du Pin and St.
Laurent are probably among the oldest of this form, and do not seem to be
earlier than the reign of Duke William; and this is true also of Arques and
Nogent-le-Rotrou. In Normandy, as in England, the polygonal or shell keep,
though on the older site, seems usually to be in masonry, which is the later
construction; that of Gisors was built by Robert de Belesme in 1097, and
OF THE CASTLES OF ENGLAND AT THE CONQUEST AND UNDER THE
CONQUEROR.
IT has usually been assumed that the rapidity of William’s conquest was
due to the absence of strong places in England. There is, however, ground
for believing that England, in this respect, was exceedingly well provided,
—quite as well provided as Normandy; and that, with the possible
exception of a very few recently-constructed strongholds, the works in the
two countries were very similar in character. The older sites of the castles of
the barons in Normandy are nearly all ascertained, and are for the most part
distinguished by a moated mound with an appended court or courts also
moated. This simple and very effective form of defence has been shown to
have been in use among the Northern nations, invaders both of England and
the Continent, and in the ninth and tenth centuries was as common on the
banks of the Thames, the Humber, and the Severn, as on those of the Seine
and the Orne. It was in the eleventh century, and chiefly during the troubles
attendant upon the accession and minority of Duke William, that the
Normans seem to have adopted a new and more permanent description of
fortress, and the old-fashioned structure of timber began to be replaced by
walls and towers in masonry, and especially by keeps of that material. Of
these the best-known, because the most durable, form was the rectangular,
of which not above half a dozen examples can be shown with certainty to
have been constructed in Normandy before the latter part of the eleventh
century, and but very few, if any, before the English conquest; nor is there
known to be in Normandy any specimen of the polygonal or circular form
of keep as early as that event. De Caumont, indeed, attributes the
rectangular keep of Langeais, in which brick is largely used, to the year
992; but there is great reason to doubt this conclusion, and Du Pin and St.
Laurent are probably among the oldest of this form, and do not seem to be
earlier than the reign of Duke William; and this is true also of Arques and
Nogent-le-Rotrou. In Normandy, as in England, the polygonal or shell keep,
though on the older site, seems usually to be in masonry, which is the later
construction; that of Gisors was built by Robert de Belesme in 1097, and
Page 50
that of Carentan at about the same time. Many even of the most
considerable mounds, as Briquessart and Vieux-Conches, show no trace of
masonry. The shell keep of Plessis-Grimoult was held by De Caumont to
have been constructed before 1047; but if this be so, it is certainly a singular
exception. Castle-building in Normandy seems to have preceded the
English conquest, if at all, by but a very few years.
The Romans left behind them in Britain many walled towns; but it is not
known to what extent these defences were preserved by the Northmen, or in
what condition they found them. At the conquest, Chester, Lincoln, Exeter,
Hereford, Leicester, Oxford, Stafford, and Colchester, seem to have been
already walled, and the walls of Exeter had been repaired or rebuilt by
Æthelstan. Canterbury, Nottingham, and York were defended by a ditch.
There were also probably some others, and possibly a few military towers
in masonry of English workmanship; but there is no evidence of there
having been anything like a rectangular keep, notwithstanding the special
mention in 1052 of Richard’s Castle, the work of Richard, the son of Scrob.
There is no reason to suppose that it possessed a tower of that character,
which would have been quite out of keeping with the moated mound which
even now marks the spot, and upon which the remains of the shell keep are
still to be seen. Still less had the English any shell keeps constructed in
masonry. What there really was in the way of military masonry and what
was its character are not so clear. It was said of Dover, by William of
Poictiers, that it was by Harold “studio atque sumptu suo communitum,”
and that there were “item per diversa loca illius terræ alia castra ubi
voluntas Ducis ea firmari jubet”; also in the account of the advance of
William from Canterbury it is added, “Veniens ... ad fractam turrim castra
metatus est,” pointing to a work in masonry, though no doubt it might, as at
York, be Roman. Arundel, named in “Domesday” as having been a castle in
the reign of the Confessor, was probably, from the size of its mound and the
depth of its ditches, as strong as any castle of its type in Normandy; but no
masonry has been observed there, either upon or about the mound, of a date
earlier than the Conquest, if as early.
That there existed in England, at the Conquest, no castles in masonry of
English work it may be too much to assert; but it may safely be said that,
save a fragment of wall at Corfe, no military masonry decidedly older than
that event has as yet been discovered. In 1052, when the Confessor and Earl
considerable mounds, as Briquessart and Vieux-Conches, show no trace of
masonry. The shell keep of Plessis-Grimoult was held by De Caumont to
have been constructed before 1047; but if this be so, it is certainly a singular
exception. Castle-building in Normandy seems to have preceded the
English conquest, if at all, by but a very few years.
The Romans left behind them in Britain many walled towns; but it is not
known to what extent these defences were preserved by the Northmen, or in
what condition they found them. At the conquest, Chester, Lincoln, Exeter,
Hereford, Leicester, Oxford, Stafford, and Colchester, seem to have been
already walled, and the walls of Exeter had been repaired or rebuilt by
Æthelstan. Canterbury, Nottingham, and York were defended by a ditch.
There were also probably some others, and possibly a few military towers
in masonry of English workmanship; but there is no evidence of there
having been anything like a rectangular keep, notwithstanding the special
mention in 1052 of Richard’s Castle, the work of Richard, the son of Scrob.
There is no reason to suppose that it possessed a tower of that character,
which would have been quite out of keeping with the moated mound which
even now marks the spot, and upon which the remains of the shell keep are
still to be seen. Still less had the English any shell keeps constructed in
masonry. What there really was in the way of military masonry and what
was its character are not so clear. It was said of Dover, by William of
Poictiers, that it was by Harold “studio atque sumptu suo communitum,”
and that there were “item per diversa loca illius terræ alia castra ubi
voluntas Ducis ea firmari jubet”; also in the account of the advance of
William from Canterbury it is added, “Veniens ... ad fractam turrim castra
metatus est,” pointing to a work in masonry, though no doubt it might, as at
York, be Roman. Arundel, named in “Domesday” as having been a castle in
the reign of the Confessor, was probably, from the size of its mound and the
depth of its ditches, as strong as any castle of its type in Normandy; but no
masonry has been observed there, either upon or about the mound, of a date
earlier than the Conquest, if as early.
That there existed in England, at the Conquest, no castles in masonry of
English work it may be too much to assert; but it may safely be said that,
save a fragment of wall at Corfe, no military masonry decidedly older than
that event has as yet been discovered. In 1052, when the Confessor and Earl
Page 51
Godwin came to terms, and the attack on London was set aside, it is stated
that Archbishop Robert and his Frenchmen fled, some westward to
Pentecost Castle and some northwards to Robert’s Castle; so that these
places probably, like Richard’s Castle, were in Norman hands, though it
does not follow that they were constructed of the material or in the fashion
then coming into use in Normandy.
“Domesday” mentions directly forty-nine castles as existing at the date of
the survey, and of these at least thirty-three were on sites far older than the
Conquest; and of them at least twenty-eight possessed artificial mounds
similar to Arundel and the castles in Normandy. “Domesday,” however, is
notoriously capricious both in its entries and omissions on such matters as
were not included in its proper view, and its list of castles is nearly as
incomplete as its list of churches. Neither were required to be noted. “Of the
forty-nine castles recorded,” says Sir H. Ellis, “eight are known, either on
the authority of ‘Domesday’ or of our old historians, to have been built by
the Conqueror himself; ten are entered as erected by greater barons, and one
by an under-tenant of Earl Roger; eleven more, of whose builders we have
no particular account, are noticed in the ‘Survey,’ either expressly or by
inference, as new.” The fact is, however, that although the number of castles
actually mentioned may be only forty-nine, of castles and castelries (which
imply a castle) there are named in “Domesday” fifty-two. The castles
reputed to have been built by the Conqueror himself are Lincoln,
Rockingham, Wareham, two castles at York, Dover, Durham, London, and
Nottingham, of which the last four are not mentioned in “Domesday.”
Exeter, also omitted, is generally reputed to be one of William’s castles, as
was Stafford; which, however, was constructed and destroyed before the
date of the survey. “Terra de Stadford in qua rex percepit fieri castellum,
quod modo est destructum,” a very short period for the construction and
destruction of a work in masonry. Mr. Pearson, who has given great
attention to the subject of Norman castles in England, tabulates the result of
his researches in the atlas attached to his “History.” He there enumerates, as
standing in the reign of the Conqueror, forty-nine castles belonging to the
King and fifty to his subjects. Of these, at least thirty-eight have mounds.
He gives also a list of fifty-three belonging to private persons in the reign of
William Rufus, of which at least five have mounds. Probably there were of
each class many more than these. Colchester, for example, is not included,
nor Farnham, nor Berkhampstede.
that Archbishop Robert and his Frenchmen fled, some westward to
Pentecost Castle and some northwards to Robert’s Castle; so that these
places probably, like Richard’s Castle, were in Norman hands, though it
does not follow that they were constructed of the material or in the fashion
then coming into use in Normandy.
“Domesday” mentions directly forty-nine castles as existing at the date of
the survey, and of these at least thirty-three were on sites far older than the
Conquest; and of them at least twenty-eight possessed artificial mounds
similar to Arundel and the castles in Normandy. “Domesday,” however, is
notoriously capricious both in its entries and omissions on such matters as
were not included in its proper view, and its list of castles is nearly as
incomplete as its list of churches. Neither were required to be noted. “Of the
forty-nine castles recorded,” says Sir H. Ellis, “eight are known, either on
the authority of ‘Domesday’ or of our old historians, to have been built by
the Conqueror himself; ten are entered as erected by greater barons, and one
by an under-tenant of Earl Roger; eleven more, of whose builders we have
no particular account, are noticed in the ‘Survey,’ either expressly or by
inference, as new.” The fact is, however, that although the number of castles
actually mentioned may be only forty-nine, of castles and castelries (which
imply a castle) there are named in “Domesday” fifty-two. The castles
reputed to have been built by the Conqueror himself are Lincoln,
Rockingham, Wareham, two castles at York, Dover, Durham, London, and
Nottingham, of which the last four are not mentioned in “Domesday.”
Exeter, also omitted, is generally reputed to be one of William’s castles, as
was Stafford; which, however, was constructed and destroyed before the
date of the survey. “Terra de Stadford in qua rex percepit fieri castellum,
quod modo est destructum,” a very short period for the construction and
destruction of a work in masonry. Mr. Pearson, who has given great
attention to the subject of Norman castles in England, tabulates the result of
his researches in the atlas attached to his “History.” He there enumerates, as
standing in the reign of the Conqueror, forty-nine castles belonging to the
King and fifty to his subjects. Of these, at least thirty-eight have mounds.
He gives also a list of fifty-three belonging to private persons in the reign of
William Rufus, of which at least five have mounds. Probably there were of
each class many more than these. Colchester, for example, is not included,
nor Farnham, nor Berkhampstede.
Page 52
Of the ninety-nine castles enumerated by Mr. Pearson as belonging to the
reign of the Conqueror, at least fifty are on old sites. These are Arundel,
Berkeley, Bramber, Cambridge, Carisbrook, Chester, Clare, Clifford,
Caerleon, Coningsburgh, Dover, Durham, Dunster, Dudley, Eye, Ewias,
Guildford, Hastings, Huntingdon, Launceston, Leicester, Lincoln, Lewes,
L’wre, Marlborough, Montacute, Norwich, Oxford, Pevensey, Pontefract,
Quatford, Raleigh, Richard’s Castle, Rochester, Rockingham, Shrewsbury,
Striguil, Stafford, Stamford, Tickhill, Tonbridge, Trematon, Tutbury,
Wigmore, Windsor, Wallingford, Wareham, Warwick, Worcester, and York.
Almost as many are doubtful, and probably not more than two or three,
such as Richmond, London, and possibly Malling, were altogether new. The
fact is, that all these lists, however valuable they may be as showing what
castles were taken possession of or re-edified or strengthened by the
Normans, give no adequate idea of the fortresses already existing in
England, and omit scores of earthworks as large and as strong as those
occupied by the Normans in England or left behind them in Normandy, of a
date long before the reign of William,—probably before the end of the tenth
century. If, as said by William of Newbury, the castles were the bones of the
kingdom, it must be admitted that the English skeleton was a very perfect
one. Every part of England, much of Scotland, and the accessible parts of
the Welsh border, were covered with strong places, which were, no doubt,
defended, and well defended, with palisades, as more suitable to made
ground than work in masonry such as was more or less in use for
ecclesiastical purposes. If, at the Conquest, no English stronghold held out,
it was not that such places were less capable of defence than those in
Normandy, but that England was broken up into parties. Harold’s seat was
too insecure and the few months of his reign far too brief to allow his great
administrative talents to come into play; and his early death left the English
without a leader. The power of the other earls was local. There was no
organised opposition. Notwithstanding the assertion of Orderic that the
English were mere tillers of the soil, a convivial and drinking race, they by
no means submitted quietly to the Norman rule; but their efforts for
freedom, boldly devised and gallantly executed, were ill-timed and ill-
combined, and were in consequence put down in detail. Under such
circumstances, the strongholds of the country availed little. Dover, Lewes,
Arundel, Bramber, Tonbridge, Rochester, Guildford, Farnham, Wallingford,
and Berkhampstede, had their strong earthworks been held in force, would
reign of the Conqueror, at least fifty are on old sites. These are Arundel,
Berkeley, Bramber, Cambridge, Carisbrook, Chester, Clare, Clifford,
Caerleon, Coningsburgh, Dover, Durham, Dunster, Dudley, Eye, Ewias,
Guildford, Hastings, Huntingdon, Launceston, Leicester, Lincoln, Lewes,
L’wre, Marlborough, Montacute, Norwich, Oxford, Pevensey, Pontefract,
Quatford, Raleigh, Richard’s Castle, Rochester, Rockingham, Shrewsbury,
Striguil, Stafford, Stamford, Tickhill, Tonbridge, Trematon, Tutbury,
Wigmore, Windsor, Wallingford, Wareham, Warwick, Worcester, and York.
Almost as many are doubtful, and probably not more than two or three,
such as Richmond, London, and possibly Malling, were altogether new. The
fact is, that all these lists, however valuable they may be as showing what
castles were taken possession of or re-edified or strengthened by the
Normans, give no adequate idea of the fortresses already existing in
England, and omit scores of earthworks as large and as strong as those
occupied by the Normans in England or left behind them in Normandy, of a
date long before the reign of William,—probably before the end of the tenth
century. If, as said by William of Newbury, the castles were the bones of the
kingdom, it must be admitted that the English skeleton was a very perfect
one. Every part of England, much of Scotland, and the accessible parts of
the Welsh border, were covered with strong places, which were, no doubt,
defended, and well defended, with palisades, as more suitable to made
ground than work in masonry such as was more or less in use for
ecclesiastical purposes. If, at the Conquest, no English stronghold held out,
it was not that such places were less capable of defence than those in
Normandy, but that England was broken up into parties. Harold’s seat was
too insecure and the few months of his reign far too brief to allow his great
administrative talents to come into play; and his early death left the English
without a leader. The power of the other earls was local. There was no
organised opposition. Notwithstanding the assertion of Orderic that the
English were mere tillers of the soil, a convivial and drinking race, they by
no means submitted quietly to the Norman rule; but their efforts for
freedom, boldly devised and gallantly executed, were ill-timed and ill-
combined, and were in consequence put down in detail. Under such
circumstances, the strongholds of the country availed little. Dover, Lewes,
Arundel, Bramber, Tonbridge, Rochester, Guildford, Farnham, Wallingford,
and Berkhampstede, had their strong earthworks been held in force, would
Page 53
have rendered William’s advance too imprudent to have been attempted;
and that these and other not far distant positions were well chosen is shown
by the fact that they were all adopted by the Conqueror. The conquest of
England was made possible, not by the absence of strong places, but by the
want of organisation for their defence.
But whatever may have been the character of the defences in use in
England before the arrival of the Normans, it is certain that from that period
they underwent a considerable and probably a rapid change, though
scarcely so rapid as has been supposed. The Normans, who had so long, in
common with the English (probably by reason of their common ancestry),
employed the moated and palisaded mound, proceeded to carry out in
England the important improvements they had already commenced in
Normandy. William’s chief object, having conquered, was to secure his
conquest; and his first care, on obtaining possession of each division of the
kingdom or each capital city or town, was to regard it from a military point
of view, and to order the construction of such strong places as might be
necessary for the holding of it. How completely, in so doing, he trod in the
footsteps of those who had gone before, is shown by what he found and
what he did towards the covering of London and the maintaining of his
communication with the sea. Thus he found and reinforced castles at
Chichester, Arundel, Bramber, Lewes, Hastings, and Dover. On his road he
found and strengthened Canterbury, Tonbridge, Rochester, and Ryegate. In
London he founded the Tower, an entirely new work; but for the defence of
the basin of the Thames he trusted to the ancient sites of Guildford and
Farnham, possibly Reading, and certainly Wallingford and Berkhampstede.
And so all over the kingdom, such strongholds as were central, in good
military positions, or of unusual strength, or were placed in the ancient
demesne lands of the Crown, were taken possession of or reconstructed for
the sovereign; but every baron or great tenant in chief was permitted,—and,
indeed, at first expected, and was no doubt sufficiently ready,—to construct
castles for the security of the lands allotted to him, which in the vast
majority of instances meant to remodel the defences of his English
predecessors. This was under the pressure of circumstances; for William
seems always to have been awake to the danger of uniting extensive
hereditary jurisdictions, and even from the first to have contemplated
governing the counties through the intervention of vice-comites, or sheriffs,
who were appointed and could be displaced at pleasure. But this policy was
and that these and other not far distant positions were well chosen is shown
by the fact that they were all adopted by the Conqueror. The conquest of
England was made possible, not by the absence of strong places, but by the
want of organisation for their defence.
But whatever may have been the character of the defences in use in
England before the arrival of the Normans, it is certain that from that period
they underwent a considerable and probably a rapid change, though
scarcely so rapid as has been supposed. The Normans, who had so long, in
common with the English (probably by reason of their common ancestry),
employed the moated and palisaded mound, proceeded to carry out in
England the important improvements they had already commenced in
Normandy. William’s chief object, having conquered, was to secure his
conquest; and his first care, on obtaining possession of each division of the
kingdom or each capital city or town, was to regard it from a military point
of view, and to order the construction of such strong places as might be
necessary for the holding of it. How completely, in so doing, he trod in the
footsteps of those who had gone before, is shown by what he found and
what he did towards the covering of London and the maintaining of his
communication with the sea. Thus he found and reinforced castles at
Chichester, Arundel, Bramber, Lewes, Hastings, and Dover. On his road he
found and strengthened Canterbury, Tonbridge, Rochester, and Ryegate. In
London he founded the Tower, an entirely new work; but for the defence of
the basin of the Thames he trusted to the ancient sites of Guildford and
Farnham, possibly Reading, and certainly Wallingford and Berkhampstede.
And so all over the kingdom, such strongholds as were central, in good
military positions, or of unusual strength, or were placed in the ancient
demesne lands of the Crown, were taken possession of or reconstructed for
the sovereign; but every baron or great tenant in chief was permitted,—and,
indeed, at first expected, and was no doubt sufficiently ready,—to construct
castles for the security of the lands allotted to him, which in the vast
majority of instances meant to remodel the defences of his English
predecessors. This was under the pressure of circumstances; for William
seems always to have been awake to the danger of uniting extensive
hereditary jurisdictions, and even from the first to have contemplated
governing the counties through the intervention of vice-comites, or sheriffs,
who were appointed and could be displaced at pleasure. But this policy was
Page 54
at first, in certain districts, necessarily postponed; though even then William
made it to be understood that the chief castles of the realm, by whomsoever
built, were royal castles; and their actual acquisition was always an
important part of the policy of both him and his successors so long as
castles were of consequence. Thus Windsor, Cambridge, Exeter, Corfe,
Wareham, Winchester, Porchester, Southampton, Carisbrooke, Canterbury,
Dover, Lincoln, Rockingham, Nottingham, Stafford, Guildford, Warwick,
Marlborough, and York were royal castles from the commencement.
Wallingford, Gloucester, Bristol, Oxford, Tutbury, Worcester, though built
by subjects, were not the less claimed and officered by the Crown. Even
Durham, though held by the bishops, and Leicester, Lincoln, and
Huntingdon, by the lords of those earldoms, were from time to time in the
hands of the Crown, whose rights over them were of a far more direct
character than those it claimed to exercise over the lands and other feudal
possessions of the same lords.
Arundel, Shrewsbury, Montgomery, Bridgenorth, and some less
important fortresses, fell to the Crown on the overthrow of the house of
Talvas; and with this event a number of castles on the Welsh border, built by
tenants of Earl Roger, became fiefs in capite, dependent directly upon the
Crown. Besides these, there are on record in England about forty or fifty
castles built by local barons, which, when it suited the Crown, were taken in
hand and repaired and garrisoned at its charge.
Of nearly all the castles on record, as existing in the reigns of the
Conqueror and his sons, the sites are well known; and of very many,
fragments of the masonry remain. What is very remarkable is, that of this
masonry there is but little which can be referred to the reign of either the
Conqueror or William Rufus,—that is, to the eleventh century. Of that
period are certainly London and Malling, Guildford, Bramber, Carlisle, the
gate-house of Exeter, the lower story of Chepstow, the keeps of Chester,
Goderich, Walden, Wolvesey, Colchester, and Newcastle, though this last
looks later than its recorded date. Newcastle was probably on the site of an
earlier castle; at least, the entry in the Hundred Rolls (ii., 119),—“Juratores
dicunt quod Vicecomes ... fecit quandam inquisitionem ... super motam
castri predictæ villæ,”—looks like it. There is some reason to regard the
keep at Malling as the earliest Norman military building now extant in
England, and as the work of Gundulf, the architect of the Tower keep. The
made it to be understood that the chief castles of the realm, by whomsoever
built, were royal castles; and their actual acquisition was always an
important part of the policy of both him and his successors so long as
castles were of consequence. Thus Windsor, Cambridge, Exeter, Corfe,
Wareham, Winchester, Porchester, Southampton, Carisbrooke, Canterbury,
Dover, Lincoln, Rockingham, Nottingham, Stafford, Guildford, Warwick,
Marlborough, and York were royal castles from the commencement.
Wallingford, Gloucester, Bristol, Oxford, Tutbury, Worcester, though built
by subjects, were not the less claimed and officered by the Crown. Even
Durham, though held by the bishops, and Leicester, Lincoln, and
Huntingdon, by the lords of those earldoms, were from time to time in the
hands of the Crown, whose rights over them were of a far more direct
character than those it claimed to exercise over the lands and other feudal
possessions of the same lords.
Arundel, Shrewsbury, Montgomery, Bridgenorth, and some less
important fortresses, fell to the Crown on the overthrow of the house of
Talvas; and with this event a number of castles on the Welsh border, built by
tenants of Earl Roger, became fiefs in capite, dependent directly upon the
Crown. Besides these, there are on record in England about forty or fifty
castles built by local barons, which, when it suited the Crown, were taken in
hand and repaired and garrisoned at its charge.
Of nearly all the castles on record, as existing in the reigns of the
Conqueror and his sons, the sites are well known; and of very many,
fragments of the masonry remain. What is very remarkable is, that of this
masonry there is but little which can be referred to the reign of either the
Conqueror or William Rufus,—that is, to the eleventh century. Of that
period are certainly London and Malling, Guildford, Bramber, Carlisle, the
gate-house of Exeter, the lower story of Chepstow, the keeps of Chester,
Goderich, Walden, Wolvesey, Colchester, and Newcastle, though this last
looks later than its recorded date. Newcastle was probably on the site of an
earlier castle; at least, the entry in the Hundred Rolls (ii., 119),—“Juratores
dicunt quod Vicecomes ... fecit quandam inquisitionem ... super motam
castri predictæ villæ,”—looks like it. There is some reason to regard the
keep at Malling as the earliest Norman military building now extant in
England, and as the work of Gundulf, the architect of the Tower keep. The
Page 55
North or Gundulf’s tower at Rochester Cathedral is by the same great
builder, and possibly was intended as a military building: if so, it may rank
with Malling. Probably there is more of this early masonry; but not much.
Dover, Rochester, Porchester, and Hedingham, among our finest examples,
are certainly later. Part of Durham Castle is, no doubt, of the age of the
Conqueror; but the shell keep has been rebuilt, and it is doubtful whether
the original work was of the age of the early Norman chapel and hall
attached to it. Speaking generally, those castles in England which belong to
what is called the Norman period are too late to be the work of the
Conqueror or his personal followers, and too early to allow of any
preceding work in Norman masonry (usually sound and solid), having been
constructed and swept away. What is the solution of this difficulty? Of what
character and material were the great majority of the castles which William
ordered to be constructed? Of what character were those mentioned in
“Domesday”?
That William ordered many castles to be constructed is certain; and
among the orders left with Bishop Odo and William Fitz Osborn, when
acting as joint regents of the kingdom, was one specially charging them to
see to the building of castles; and no doubt these orders were obeyed. But it
has been hastily assumed that the castles constructed were of masonry. The
keeps of Dover and Rochester, for example (if such were erected under the
Conqueror), were certainly not those now standing, which belong to the
reign of Henry II.; and so of Norwich, and probably of Nottingham, now
destroyed. And yet the masonry of William’s reign was of a very durable
character, as is seen in the Tower of London, and in not a few still standing
churches. Also it is stated that William “custodes in castellis strenuos viros
collocavit, ex Gallis traductos, quorum fidei pariter ac virtuti credebat.”
This looks very much as though the castellans were at first, at any rate, put
in charge of existing castles; which must mean that in most cases some
temporary arrangement was made, and the existing works strengthened
until it was convenient to replace them by others more in accordance with
the new ideas of strength and security.
William and his barons evidently employed two classes of castles,—one
always in masonry, and one very often in timber. Where a castle was built in
a new position, as in London, or where there was no mound, natural or
artificial they employed masonry and chose as a rule for the keep the
builder, and possibly was intended as a military building: if so, it may rank
with Malling. Probably there is more of this early masonry; but not much.
Dover, Rochester, Porchester, and Hedingham, among our finest examples,
are certainly later. Part of Durham Castle is, no doubt, of the age of the
Conqueror; but the shell keep has been rebuilt, and it is doubtful whether
the original work was of the age of the early Norman chapel and hall
attached to it. Speaking generally, those castles in England which belong to
what is called the Norman period are too late to be the work of the
Conqueror or his personal followers, and too early to allow of any
preceding work in Norman masonry (usually sound and solid), having been
constructed and swept away. What is the solution of this difficulty? Of what
character and material were the great majority of the castles which William
ordered to be constructed? Of what character were those mentioned in
“Domesday”?
That William ordered many castles to be constructed is certain; and
among the orders left with Bishop Odo and William Fitz Osborn, when
acting as joint regents of the kingdom, was one specially charging them to
see to the building of castles; and no doubt these orders were obeyed. But it
has been hastily assumed that the castles constructed were of masonry. The
keeps of Dover and Rochester, for example (if such were erected under the
Conqueror), were certainly not those now standing, which belong to the
reign of Henry II.; and so of Norwich, and probably of Nottingham, now
destroyed. And yet the masonry of William’s reign was of a very durable
character, as is seen in the Tower of London, and in not a few still standing
churches. Also it is stated that William “custodes in castellis strenuos viros
collocavit, ex Gallis traductos, quorum fidei pariter ac virtuti credebat.”
This looks very much as though the castellans were at first, at any rate, put
in charge of existing castles; which must mean that in most cases some
temporary arrangement was made, and the existing works strengthened
until it was convenient to replace them by others more in accordance with
the new ideas of strength and security.
William and his barons evidently employed two classes of castles,—one
always in masonry, and one very often in timber. Where a castle was built in
a new position, as in London, or where there was no mound, natural or
artificial they employed masonry and chose as a rule for the keep the
Page 56
rectangular form,—a type said to have been introduced from Maine, and
seen at Arques, at Caen, and at Falaise; but where the site was old, and there
was a mound, as at Lincoln, Huntingdon, Rockingham, Wallingford, or
York, they seem to have been content to repair the existing works, usually
of timber only, and to have postponed the replacing them with a regular
shell till a more convenient season, which in many cases did not occur for a
century.
Nor was the postponement very serious, for the native fortresses, if well
manned, were strong, at least for a limited time. The attacks of the Danes
upon Towcester, Bedford, and Wigmore are on record; and yet these, of all
of which the earthworks remain, were not burhs of the first class, and
certainly would not contain a hundred men,—or, even if the base-court were
occupied, more than thrice that number,—and the Danish army could
scarcely be less than ten times as numerous. The fact is, however, that such
a mound as Arundel or Tonbridge, palisaded, could be held for a short time
by three or four score of resolute men against a sharp attack from any
number, armed as men were armed in the tenth and eleventh centuries. No
doubt, towers of masonry were more secure, because less dependent upon
the vigilance of the garrison, less obnoxious to fire, and less liable to be
taken by surprise. But the Normans were stout soldiers, well disciplined,
and could from the first expect no quarter from the insurgent English.
Among the castles ordered by William to be built, one of the most
important was York. The order was given in the summer of 1068; and it is
known that the new castle was to be upon the old English site, which
contained a moated mound of the first class, commanding and protected on
one side by the Roman city, and on the others by the swamps and waters of
the Ouse and Foss. William’s castle was to be garrisoned by three leaders
and five hundred knights, which implied a considerable following. Its area,
therefore, must have been spacious, and no doubt included with the mound
its ample base-court as seen at the present day. In 1069, the castle was
attacked by the citizens in revolt, and was even then capable of being held,
and was held, till William came to its assistance. He then ordered a second
castle to be constructed upon the Bayle Hill, the mound still to be seen on
the opposite or right bank of the river; and this was completed in eight days,
before he left the city. A few months later, before September, 1069, the
citizens, aided by the Danes, again attacked and burned the castles, which in
seen at Arques, at Caen, and at Falaise; but where the site was old, and there
was a mound, as at Lincoln, Huntingdon, Rockingham, Wallingford, or
York, they seem to have been content to repair the existing works, usually
of timber only, and to have postponed the replacing them with a regular
shell till a more convenient season, which in many cases did not occur for a
century.
Nor was the postponement very serious, for the native fortresses, if well
manned, were strong, at least for a limited time. The attacks of the Danes
upon Towcester, Bedford, and Wigmore are on record; and yet these, of all
of which the earthworks remain, were not burhs of the first class, and
certainly would not contain a hundred men,—or, even if the base-court were
occupied, more than thrice that number,—and the Danish army could
scarcely be less than ten times as numerous. The fact is, however, that such
a mound as Arundel or Tonbridge, palisaded, could be held for a short time
by three or four score of resolute men against a sharp attack from any
number, armed as men were armed in the tenth and eleventh centuries. No
doubt, towers of masonry were more secure, because less dependent upon
the vigilance of the garrison, less obnoxious to fire, and less liable to be
taken by surprise. But the Normans were stout soldiers, well disciplined,
and could from the first expect no quarter from the insurgent English.
Among the castles ordered by William to be built, one of the most
important was York. The order was given in the summer of 1068; and it is
known that the new castle was to be upon the old English site, which
contained a moated mound of the first class, commanding and protected on
one side by the Roman city, and on the others by the swamps and waters of
the Ouse and Foss. William’s castle was to be garrisoned by three leaders
and five hundred knights, which implied a considerable following. Its area,
therefore, must have been spacious, and no doubt included with the mound
its ample base-court as seen at the present day. In 1069, the castle was
attacked by the citizens in revolt, and was even then capable of being held,
and was held, till William came to its assistance. He then ordered a second
castle to be constructed upon the Bayle Hill, the mound still to be seen on
the opposite or right bank of the river; and this was completed in eight days,
before he left the city. A few months later, before September, 1069, the
citizens, aided by the Danes, again attacked and burned the castles, which in
Page 57
1069–70 were again renewed. Now, York was the metropolis of the most
disaffected half of the kingdom. There, if anywhere, a castle of stone would
be desirable, and stone could readily have been brought by water; and yet
York Castle was constructed and made capable of being defended in a few
months, and its subsidiary fortress in eight days; and both soon after were
taken and burned, and at once ordered to be reconstructed. It is clear, from
the time occupied by the whole sequence of events, that these castles were
not of masonry. Moreover, the masonry of the present York keep contains
nothing that can be attributed to the eleventh century; but much that is far
too early to have replaced a really substantial keep or curtain of Norman
date had such been built. Upon the great and artificial mound of Bayle Hill,
the site of the second castle, there is neither trace nor tradition of any
masonry at all.
The building of a Norman castle required both time and money. The
architects, overlookers, and probably the masons, had to be imported from
Normandy, and in many cases the stone for the exterior; and as most of the
existing square keeps, and very nearly all the shell keeps, are of the twelfth
century, it seems probable that the Conqueror was to some extent content
with such defences as he found in England; strengthened, no doubt, very
materially by the superior skill and resources of his engineers. This is quite
consistent with the fact that the art of castle-building did, from the building
of the White Tower, undergo a great and somewhat rapid change. It is true
of William, both in Normandy and in England, as Matthew Paris observes,
“ad castra quoque construenda, rex antecessores suos omnes superabat”;
and he, no doubt, as we are told by William of Jumieges, “tutissima castella
per opportuna loca stabilavit.” Lanfranc, writing to Roger, Earl of Hereford,
before his rebellion, assuring him of William’s confidence, adds, “et mandat
ut quantum possumus curam habeamus de castellis suis, ne, quod Deus
avertat, inimicis suis tradantur”; and in the subsequent rebellion, it was
when Ralph Guader found the men of castles against him, that he left his
wife and children to make terms from Norwich Castle, while he himself
fled. Lanfranc’s despatch informs William, “Castrum Noruuich redditum
est, et Britones qui in eo erant et terras in Anglia terra habebant, concessis
eis vita et membris.” Besides the Bishop and Earl Warrene, the castle
contained three hundred “loricati,” with cross-bowmen and many artificers
of military machines. Also the same prelate charges Bishop Walcher, of
disaffected half of the kingdom. There, if anywhere, a castle of stone would
be desirable, and stone could readily have been brought by water; and yet
York Castle was constructed and made capable of being defended in a few
months, and its subsidiary fortress in eight days; and both soon after were
taken and burned, and at once ordered to be reconstructed. It is clear, from
the time occupied by the whole sequence of events, that these castles were
not of masonry. Moreover, the masonry of the present York keep contains
nothing that can be attributed to the eleventh century; but much that is far
too early to have replaced a really substantial keep or curtain of Norman
date had such been built. Upon the great and artificial mound of Bayle Hill,
the site of the second castle, there is neither trace nor tradition of any
masonry at all.
The building of a Norman castle required both time and money. The
architects, overlookers, and probably the masons, had to be imported from
Normandy, and in many cases the stone for the exterior; and as most of the
existing square keeps, and very nearly all the shell keeps, are of the twelfth
century, it seems probable that the Conqueror was to some extent content
with such defences as he found in England; strengthened, no doubt, very
materially by the superior skill and resources of his engineers. This is quite
consistent with the fact that the art of castle-building did, from the building
of the White Tower, undergo a great and somewhat rapid change. It is true
of William, both in Normandy and in England, as Matthew Paris observes,
“ad castra quoque construenda, rex antecessores suos omnes superabat”;
and he, no doubt, as we are told by William of Jumieges, “tutissima castella
per opportuna loca stabilavit.” Lanfranc, writing to Roger, Earl of Hereford,
before his rebellion, assuring him of William’s confidence, adds, “et mandat
ut quantum possumus curam habeamus de castellis suis, ne, quod Deus
avertat, inimicis suis tradantur”; and in the subsequent rebellion, it was
when Ralph Guader found the men of castles against him, that he left his
wife and children to make terms from Norwich Castle, while he himself
fled. Lanfranc’s despatch informs William, “Castrum Noruuich redditum
est, et Britones qui in eo erant et terras in Anglia terra habebant, concessis
eis vita et membris.” Besides the Bishop and Earl Warrene, the castle
contained three hundred “loricati,” with cross-bowmen and many artificers
of military machines. Also the same prelate charges Bishop Walcher, of
Page 58
Durham, “Castrum itaque vestrum, et hominibus, et armis, et alimentis
vigilanti cura muniri facite.”
Castles, no doubt, there were at William’s command, many and strong.
All that is here contended for is, that whatever he may have desired,
William was able to construct but few castles such as London or Durham;
and that the greater number of those that remain and exhibit the Norman
style of architecture belong, some to the close of the eleventh, and a greater
number to the twelfth century. But if William did not actually build so many
castles as is supposed, he and his followers certainly restored and occupied
an immense number, upon which those who came immediately after him
built structures, the ruins of which we now see.
There is much to be learned from the consideration of the positions of
these fortresses. William’s first care, on obtaining possession of each
district, was to order the preparation of such strong places as might be
necessary for the holding of it. But it is evident that he was influenced also
by another consideration: he desired to be regarded as the legitimate heir of
the Confessor, rather than as the conqueror of the kingdom; and so far as
was consistent with his own security, he strove to administer the ancient
laws, and to leave the ancient tenures and private estates, and even English
owners, undisturbed. This indeed, owing to the strong national discontent,
shown by repeated insurrections and by a general current of ill-will of
which these were the indications, he speedily found to be out of the
question. But even while driving out the native magnates, he was careful to
associate the new men, as far as possible, with the past, in the hope (well
founded) that before long the “successores et antecessores,” as they are
called in “Domesday,” would be looked upon as part of a continued line,—
Earl Roger, for example, as the representative of Edwin of Shrewsbury,
Hugh Lupus of Morcar, and William Fitz Osbern of Ralph the Earl of
Hereford under the Confessor.
And this policy is particularly evident in the sites of the castles. Where
circumstances absolutely required it, an entirely new position was selected;
but this was extremely rare, and probably did not occur in half a dozen
instances, if indeed in more than London and Richmond. Usually it was
found that the English lord had attached to his estate an earthwork upon
which he and his ancestors had lived for centuries, which was identified
with the estate or district, and regarded with respect and confidence by the
vigilanti cura muniri facite.”
Castles, no doubt, there were at William’s command, many and strong.
All that is here contended for is, that whatever he may have desired,
William was able to construct but few castles such as London or Durham;
and that the greater number of those that remain and exhibit the Norman
style of architecture belong, some to the close of the eleventh, and a greater
number to the twelfth century. But if William did not actually build so many
castles as is supposed, he and his followers certainly restored and occupied
an immense number, upon which those who came immediately after him
built structures, the ruins of which we now see.
There is much to be learned from the consideration of the positions of
these fortresses. William’s first care, on obtaining possession of each
district, was to order the preparation of such strong places as might be
necessary for the holding of it. But it is evident that he was influenced also
by another consideration: he desired to be regarded as the legitimate heir of
the Confessor, rather than as the conqueror of the kingdom; and so far as
was consistent with his own security, he strove to administer the ancient
laws, and to leave the ancient tenures and private estates, and even English
owners, undisturbed. This indeed, owing to the strong national discontent,
shown by repeated insurrections and by a general current of ill-will of
which these were the indications, he speedily found to be out of the
question. But even while driving out the native magnates, he was careful to
associate the new men, as far as possible, with the past, in the hope (well
founded) that before long the “successores et antecessores,” as they are
called in “Domesday,” would be looked upon as part of a continued line,—
Earl Roger, for example, as the representative of Edwin of Shrewsbury,
Hugh Lupus of Morcar, and William Fitz Osbern of Ralph the Earl of
Hereford under the Confessor.
And this policy is particularly evident in the sites of the castles. Where
circumstances absolutely required it, an entirely new position was selected;
but this was extremely rare, and probably did not occur in half a dozen
instances, if indeed in more than London and Richmond. Usually it was
found that the English lord had attached to his estate an earthwork upon
which he and his ancestors had lived for centuries, which was identified
with the estate or district, and regarded with respect and confidence by the
Page 59
surrounding tenantry. It is surprising to find how completely the leading
positions in the country had thus been occupied. The upland passes; the
margins of the rivers; the summits, where readily accessible, of the
detached hills; the spots rendered strong by cliffs or ravines, or extended or
impracticable marshes. Each had its aula, where a succession of lords had
identified themselves with their people, afforded them protection, and
received in return their support. Such were Guildford, Farnham, and
Berkhampstede, in the clefts of the belt of chalk by which London is
girdled; Hertford, Bedford, Wallingford, Tamworth, Worcester, Shrewsbury,
Durham, and York, upon the banks of deep or rapid streams; Windsor,
Belvoir, Lincoln, Corfe, and Montacute, placed on the summit of more or
less detached hills, commanding a broad sweep of country; Dover,
Scarborough, and Bamborough, upon rugged and lofty sea-cliffs, isolated
by deep and formidable ravines; Huntingdon, Cambridge, Ely, and Oxford,
more or less covered by marshy fens at that time almost impassable; while
attached to and so placed as to overawe their adjacent cities or towns were
such fortresses as Exeter, Leicester, Winchester, Chester, Chichester,
Taunton, York, Norwich, and Nottingham. Each, including many that
belonged to the Crown, represented an English estate. To many of them
military service had long been paid; and now into them the knights and
barons from Normandy and the lieutenants and governors for the Crown
were inserted.
So far, the policy was sound and promised to be successful; but when the
new lords began to build castles of stone they became obnoxious to both
sovereign and people. The possessor of a strong castle was ever ready for
rebellion, and was not uncommonly a tyrant even to his own people, of
whom this made him independent: hence, castles properly so called,—
buildings in masonry,—were hated by both king and people. The old-
fashioned residence, half mansion, half fortress, formed of earth and timber
or at best of a rude kind of masonry, such as Scott more by intuition than
inquiry attributes to the Saxon Cedric, was strong when held by brave men
in sufficient numbers for a short time; but under ordinary circumstances it
could easily be attacked, and set on fire. These fortified residences were out
of fashion with the Normans, and fell into disuse. The English lords were of
the same immediate lineage with their tenants; and if they occasionally
squeezed them, they did it as a man squeezes his own milch cow, tenderly.
But the castle of stone was held by a stranger whose language, arms, and
positions in the country had thus been occupied. The upland passes; the
margins of the rivers; the summits, where readily accessible, of the
detached hills; the spots rendered strong by cliffs or ravines, or extended or
impracticable marshes. Each had its aula, where a succession of lords had
identified themselves with their people, afforded them protection, and
received in return their support. Such were Guildford, Farnham, and
Berkhampstede, in the clefts of the belt of chalk by which London is
girdled; Hertford, Bedford, Wallingford, Tamworth, Worcester, Shrewsbury,
Durham, and York, upon the banks of deep or rapid streams; Windsor,
Belvoir, Lincoln, Corfe, and Montacute, placed on the summit of more or
less detached hills, commanding a broad sweep of country; Dover,
Scarborough, and Bamborough, upon rugged and lofty sea-cliffs, isolated
by deep and formidable ravines; Huntingdon, Cambridge, Ely, and Oxford,
more or less covered by marshy fens at that time almost impassable; while
attached to and so placed as to overawe their adjacent cities or towns were
such fortresses as Exeter, Leicester, Winchester, Chester, Chichester,
Taunton, York, Norwich, and Nottingham. Each, including many that
belonged to the Crown, represented an English estate. To many of them
military service had long been paid; and now into them the knights and
barons from Normandy and the lieutenants and governors for the Crown
were inserted.
So far, the policy was sound and promised to be successful; but when the
new lords began to build castles of stone they became obnoxious to both
sovereign and people. The possessor of a strong castle was ever ready for
rebellion, and was not uncommonly a tyrant even to his own people, of
whom this made him independent: hence, castles properly so called,—
buildings in masonry,—were hated by both king and people. The old-
fashioned residence, half mansion, half fortress, formed of earth and timber
or at best of a rude kind of masonry, such as Scott more by intuition than
inquiry attributes to the Saxon Cedric, was strong when held by brave men
in sufficient numbers for a short time; but under ordinary circumstances it
could easily be attacked, and set on fire. These fortified residences were out
of fashion with the Normans, and fell into disuse. The English lords were of
the same immediate lineage with their tenants; and if they occasionally
squeezed them, they did it as a man squeezes his own milch cow, tenderly.
But the castle of stone was held by a stranger whose language, arms, and
Page 60
armour were strange to the people, and by them feared and hated. The
Norman castle was a purely military building. It was not only strong when
well garrisoned, but its passive strength was also great; and when the bridge
was up and the gates closed it was at all times safe against an enemy
unprovided with military engines. Fire, the ordinary and ready weapon of
the populace, against such a wall, for example, as Cardiff (40 feet high and
11 feet thick), or against such a Tower as London, could do nothing. The
garrison also, composed in the English times of the tenants of the lord,
under the Normans were not unfrequently mercenaries,—men without ruth
or conscience, distrusted even by their employers, whose trade was war and
whose gain was plunder, and of whom Maurice de Bracy was a very
favourable specimen. “Quot domini castellorum,” it was said “tot tyranni.”
No wonder, then, that the Norman castles came to be regarded as the
symbol of rebellion on the one hand, and of tyranny on the other.
Although the personal attention of the Conqueror was necessarily
confined to the chief cities and central towns of England, to Exeter,
Gloucester, Nottingham, Lincoln, York, or Durham, his western frontier
was not neglected, although he was obliged to depute its ordinary defence
to others. The Welsh, hardened by centuries of constant warfare, held with
tenacity their strip of mountain land between Offa’s Dyke and the sea, and
were ever on the watch to spoil that other more fertile tract which lay
between the Dyke and the Severn and the Dee, known as the March.
Foremost among the barons of the March were Roger of Montgomery and
Hugh D’Avranches, Earl of Chester, to whom later generations gave the
surname of the “Wolf.” The caput of this latter earldom, protected by the
deep and rapid Dee, was posted at one angle of the old Roman enclosure;
and the castle of Earl Roger, girdled by the convolutions of the Severn, was
an almost impregnable citadel. From these fortresses these great earls
exercised more than regal power over the counties of Salop and Hereford,
composing the Middle March. The border barons, their feudatories,
succeeded to no peaceful heritage; but by degrees they possessed
themselves of the older English possessions upon the border, and along with
them of the fortresses by which in Mercian times the Welsh had been held
so long at bay. That these were numerous is evident from the remains of
their earthworks; and that they were strong and well held against the Welsh
is evident from the English names along and beyond the frontier.
“Domesday,” however, though compiled after Earl Roger had held the
Norman castle was a purely military building. It was not only strong when
well garrisoned, but its passive strength was also great; and when the bridge
was up and the gates closed it was at all times safe against an enemy
unprovided with military engines. Fire, the ordinary and ready weapon of
the populace, against such a wall, for example, as Cardiff (40 feet high and
11 feet thick), or against such a Tower as London, could do nothing. The
garrison also, composed in the English times of the tenants of the lord,
under the Normans were not unfrequently mercenaries,—men without ruth
or conscience, distrusted even by their employers, whose trade was war and
whose gain was plunder, and of whom Maurice de Bracy was a very
favourable specimen. “Quot domini castellorum,” it was said “tot tyranni.”
No wonder, then, that the Norman castles came to be regarded as the
symbol of rebellion on the one hand, and of tyranny on the other.
Although the personal attention of the Conqueror was necessarily
confined to the chief cities and central towns of England, to Exeter,
Gloucester, Nottingham, Lincoln, York, or Durham, his western frontier
was not neglected, although he was obliged to depute its ordinary defence
to others. The Welsh, hardened by centuries of constant warfare, held with
tenacity their strip of mountain land between Offa’s Dyke and the sea, and
were ever on the watch to spoil that other more fertile tract which lay
between the Dyke and the Severn and the Dee, known as the March.
Foremost among the barons of the March were Roger of Montgomery and
Hugh D’Avranches, Earl of Chester, to whom later generations gave the
surname of the “Wolf.” The caput of this latter earldom, protected by the
deep and rapid Dee, was posted at one angle of the old Roman enclosure;
and the castle of Earl Roger, girdled by the convolutions of the Severn, was
an almost impregnable citadel. From these fortresses these great earls
exercised more than regal power over the counties of Salop and Hereford,
composing the Middle March. The border barons, their feudatories,
succeeded to no peaceful heritage; but by degrees they possessed
themselves of the older English possessions upon the border, and along with
them of the fortresses by which in Mercian times the Welsh had been held
so long at bay. That these were numerous is evident from the remains of
their earthworks; and that they were strong and well held against the Welsh
is evident from the English names along and beyond the frontier.
“Domesday,” however, though compiled after Earl Roger had held the
Page 61
Earldom of Shrewsbury about twelve years, only mentions four castles
upon his border,—Oswestry, Montgomery, Shrewsbury, and Stanton or
Castle Holgate, and the Earl’s house at Quatford. Bridgenorth and
Carreghova were built a few years later, in the reign of Rufus; but
Bridgenorth represented the burgh of Æthelflæda, the remains of which are
possibly seen at Oldbury, as are earthworks of still stronger type, actually
employed by Earl Roger at Quatford. Besides these, Wattlesborough and
Clun exhibit rectangular Norman keeps; and eleven or twelve more castles
in those districts are mentioned in records as early as the reign of Henry I.
Altogether, by the close of the twelfth century there were from fifty to sixty
castles in the county of Salop alone. Now, although the masonry of these
castles, or of such of them as remain, can very rarely indeed be attributed to
the Norman period, the earthworks show that they existed as fortresses long
before that time; and it seems, therefore, certain that here, as in other parts
of England, Earl Roger and his barons made the most of such works as they
found ready to their hands; and this applies equally to the Palatinate of
Chester and to the southern Marches, where also Norman castles took the
place, with more or less of interval, of strongholds of the English type.
upon his border,—Oswestry, Montgomery, Shrewsbury, and Stanton or
Castle Holgate, and the Earl’s house at Quatford. Bridgenorth and
Carreghova were built a few years later, in the reign of Rufus; but
Bridgenorth represented the burgh of Æthelflæda, the remains of which are
possibly seen at Oldbury, as are earthworks of still stronger type, actually
employed by Earl Roger at Quatford. Besides these, Wattlesborough and
Clun exhibit rectangular Norman keeps; and eleven or twelve more castles
in those districts are mentioned in records as early as the reign of Henry I.
Altogether, by the close of the twelfth century there were from fifty to sixty
castles in the county of Salop alone. Now, although the masonry of these
castles, or of such of them as remain, can very rarely indeed be attributed to
the Norman period, the earthworks show that they existed as fortresses long
before that time; and it seems, therefore, certain that here, as in other parts
of England, Earl Roger and his barons made the most of such works as they
found ready to their hands; and this applies equally to the Palatinate of
Chester and to the southern Marches, where also Norman castles took the
place, with more or less of interval, of strongholds of the English type.
Page 62
CHAPTER IV.
OF THE POLITICAL VALUE OF CASTLES UNDER THE SUCCESSORS OF THE
CONQUEROR.
IT is rather remarkable that castles should not occupy, even incidentally, a
more prominent place in the “Domesday Survey,” as they formed a very
important feature in the country; were closely, for the most part, attached to
landed property; and were of great political importance. No great baron was
without a castle upon each of his principal estates, nor was any bishop
secure of his personal safety unless so provided. At the death of the
Conqueror, it was the possession of Winchester Castle that gave to William
Rufus the royal treasure, and enabled his adherents to acquire the castles of
Dover and Hastings, and thus, at the commencement of his reign, to secure
a safe communication with Normandy. The king, it is true, had the people
on his side and owed his eventual success to their support, but the barons of
his party depended largely upon their fortresses. Archbishop Lanfranc held
Saltwood, which the earthworks show even then to have been strong;
Willam de Warren held Lewes and Ryegate and the strong hill of
Coningsburgh in Yorkshire; Chester belonged to Earl Hugh, who was
supported by his fifteen barons, each of whom had his castle; and in North
Wales the Earl held Diganwy, which, covered in front by the Conwy water,
closed the seaward pass from that aggressive district. With the Earl and on
the side of Rufus were Robert de Tilliol, who held Flint and Rhuddlan, and
Scaleby and other castles on the Scottish border; while Bishop Wolstan,
representing the English feeling, held his episcopal castle of Worcester
against Urso d’Abitot and a swarm of Marcher barons who crossed the
Severn to assail him.
Nevertheless, the lords of the castles were mostly on the side of Duke
Robert. Such were Alan the Black and Ribald his brother, the lords of
Richmond and Middleham; Stephen of Holderness, strong in his sea-girt
rock of Scarborough; the Mowbrays, Geoffrey, Bishop of Coutance,
Justiciary to the Conqueror, and a great soldier; and Robert Mowbray, his
brother’s son, who held the impregnable rock of Bamburgh and the great
OF THE POLITICAL VALUE OF CASTLES UNDER THE SUCCESSORS OF THE
CONQUEROR.
IT is rather remarkable that castles should not occupy, even incidentally, a
more prominent place in the “Domesday Survey,” as they formed a very
important feature in the country; were closely, for the most part, attached to
landed property; and were of great political importance. No great baron was
without a castle upon each of his principal estates, nor was any bishop
secure of his personal safety unless so provided. At the death of the
Conqueror, it was the possession of Winchester Castle that gave to William
Rufus the royal treasure, and enabled his adherents to acquire the castles of
Dover and Hastings, and thus, at the commencement of his reign, to secure
a safe communication with Normandy. The king, it is true, had the people
on his side and owed his eventual success to their support, but the barons of
his party depended largely upon their fortresses. Archbishop Lanfranc held
Saltwood, which the earthworks show even then to have been strong;
Willam de Warren held Lewes and Ryegate and the strong hill of
Coningsburgh in Yorkshire; Chester belonged to Earl Hugh, who was
supported by his fifteen barons, each of whom had his castle; and in North
Wales the Earl held Diganwy, which, covered in front by the Conwy water,
closed the seaward pass from that aggressive district. With the Earl and on
the side of Rufus were Robert de Tilliol, who held Flint and Rhuddlan, and
Scaleby and other castles on the Scottish border; while Bishop Wolstan,
representing the English feeling, held his episcopal castle of Worcester
against Urso d’Abitot and a swarm of Marcher barons who crossed the
Severn to assail him.
Nevertheless, the lords of the castles were mostly on the side of Duke
Robert. Such were Alan the Black and Ribald his brother, the lords of
Richmond and Middleham; Stephen of Holderness, strong in his sea-girt
rock of Scarborough; the Mowbrays, Geoffrey, Bishop of Coutance,
Justiciary to the Conqueror, and a great soldier; and Robert Mowbray, his
brother’s son, who held the impregnable rock of Bamburgh and the great
Page 63
castle of Axholm in the fens of Lincolnshire; both strong, though in a
different kind of strength. With them was the powerful Earl Roger of
Shrewsbury with his border following; and at a later period Robert de
Belesme, his successor, builder of Bridgenorth and Carreghova, and
superior lord of many border castles. In the west, Duke Robert was
supported by Bernard Newmarch, who held the castles of Brecknock and
Builth, and a large and fortified tract of Monmouthshire; with whom were
William of Breteuil, son of William Fitz-Osborn, and lord of Hereford;
Roger de Lacy of Ewias; and William Earl of Eu, the owner of the strong
rock of Hastings, who at that time held the castle and walled city of
Gloucester. Besides these great leaders were, on the same side, Ralph
Mortimer of Wigmore; Walter Giffard, whose castle on one bank of the
Buckinghamshire Ouse, combined with a similar moated mound on the
other, commanded that town and its river; Ralph Guader, who held
Norwich; and Hugh Bigot, his successor there, lord of Framlingham, after
Norwich the strongest place, both in earthworks and masonry, in East
Anglia. Between Bristol and Bath the Mowbrays ravaged the country up to
the tower of Berkeleyness, the present castle being then but an earthwork;
and with them were Hugh de Graintmaisnel, who held Hinckley and
Leicester castles; and William de Carileph, at first one of William’s prime
councillors; but who afterwards changed sides, and was enabled to do so
with safety from his possession of the keep of Durham. Bishop Odo, who
held Rochester Castle (even then a place of great strength), and with it the
passage of the Medway, placed there Eustace of Boulogne; and himself,
with his brother Earl Robert and five hundred knights, held the Roman
Pevensey, strengthened by a mound and some other English additions in
earth.
Rufus, however, with far more energy than his brother Robert, had also
the popular feeling on his side, which enabled him to make head even
against this powerful combination. He laid siege to Pevensey, and took it
after a seven weeks’ siege. He then assailed and took Rochester, and finally
Tonbridge, held by Gilbert Fitz-Richard, the consequence of which success
was the banishment of Bishop Odo. Robert Mowbray was beaten back from
before the walls of Ilchester Castle, now utterly destroyed; and Bishop
William was forced to surrender Durham. Carlisle, wasted by the Danes in
877, received from Rufus a castle and a keep, now standing; and Newcastle,
similarly provided in 1080, also retains its keep, and a gatehouse with some
different kind of strength. With them was the powerful Earl Roger of
Shrewsbury with his border following; and at a later period Robert de
Belesme, his successor, builder of Bridgenorth and Carreghova, and
superior lord of many border castles. In the west, Duke Robert was
supported by Bernard Newmarch, who held the castles of Brecknock and
Builth, and a large and fortified tract of Monmouthshire; with whom were
William of Breteuil, son of William Fitz-Osborn, and lord of Hereford;
Roger de Lacy of Ewias; and William Earl of Eu, the owner of the strong
rock of Hastings, who at that time held the castle and walled city of
Gloucester. Besides these great leaders were, on the same side, Ralph
Mortimer of Wigmore; Walter Giffard, whose castle on one bank of the
Buckinghamshire Ouse, combined with a similar moated mound on the
other, commanded that town and its river; Ralph Guader, who held
Norwich; and Hugh Bigot, his successor there, lord of Framlingham, after
Norwich the strongest place, both in earthworks and masonry, in East
Anglia. Between Bristol and Bath the Mowbrays ravaged the country up to
the tower of Berkeleyness, the present castle being then but an earthwork;
and with them were Hugh de Graintmaisnel, who held Hinckley and
Leicester castles; and William de Carileph, at first one of William’s prime
councillors; but who afterwards changed sides, and was enabled to do so
with safety from his possession of the keep of Durham. Bishop Odo, who
held Rochester Castle (even then a place of great strength), and with it the
passage of the Medway, placed there Eustace of Boulogne; and himself,
with his brother Earl Robert and five hundred knights, held the Roman
Pevensey, strengthened by a mound and some other English additions in
earth.
Rufus, however, with far more energy than his brother Robert, had also
the popular feeling on his side, which enabled him to make head even
against this powerful combination. He laid siege to Pevensey, and took it
after a seven weeks’ siege. He then assailed and took Rochester, and finally
Tonbridge, held by Gilbert Fitz-Richard, the consequence of which success
was the banishment of Bishop Odo. Robert Mowbray was beaten back from
before the walls of Ilchester Castle, now utterly destroyed; and Bishop
William was forced to surrender Durham. Carlisle, wasted by the Danes in
877, received from Rufus a castle and a keep, now standing; and Newcastle,
similarly provided in 1080, also retains its keep, and a gatehouse with some
Page 64
traces of the exterior wall. In 1098 Malcolm of Scotland, the husband of St.
Margaret, was slain before Alnwick, then better known as Murielden; and
Mowbray was driven from Tynewald Castle back upon Bamburgh, which
seems to have been finally taken by means of a “malvoisin,” which in this
instance was evidently an entrenched camp thrown up to the west of the
castle, and employed probably as the headquarters of a blockade. In this
reign also the conquest of South Wales was completed, and the foundations
laid of a chain of castles from Gloucester and Hereford to Pembroke, the
main links of which were Chepstow and Abergavenny, Caerleon and
Cardiff, Builth and Brecknock, Caerkennen, Caermarthen, Cardigan, Tenby,
and Carew. How far these Welsh castles were at once constructed of
masonry is uncertain. Besides Chepstow, two only, or at most three, and
those subordinate, Ogmore, Penlline, and Newcastle, exhibit decided
Norman features; but however this may be, neither Fitz-Hamon,
Newmarch, nor Arnulph of Montgomery were likely, in the face of foes so
formidable, to be satisfied with defences in any way inferior to the strongest
of that day.
The reign of Henry I. was prolific in castles. It is probable that to him is
due the greater number of our extant rectangular keeps, by the construction
of which he carried to completion the plans sketched out by his father,
which his brother had been too busy and too much pressed to take in hand.
In this reign, especially between 1114 and 1121, most of the Welsh castles
were completed. Bristol and Cardiff castles were the work of Robert Earl of
Gloucester. Bishop Roger of Salisbury built Sherborne, Salisbury, the
Devizes, and Malmesbury; and his brother, Alexander of Lincoln, Sleaford
and Newark. “Castella erant crebra per totam Angliam.” Most of these were
great and strong, very different from the hasty and unlicensed structures of
the succeeding reign.
Henry, like Rufus, commenced his reign with the taking of Winchester
with its treasures. Flambard, who had been entrusted with the great
episcopal castles of Durham and Norham, was imprisoned in the keep of
London. The outlawry of Robert Malet and Robert de Lacy, in 1101, gave
Henry their castles in Yorkshire and Suffolk; and in 1102 Ivo de
Graintmaisnel was driven from his mound at Hinckley, and forced to flee
the country. Also the King obtained, by forfeiture, the castles of William de
Warenne, though these were afterwards restored. Henry, in 1103, laid his
Margaret, was slain before Alnwick, then better known as Murielden; and
Mowbray was driven from Tynewald Castle back upon Bamburgh, which
seems to have been finally taken by means of a “malvoisin,” which in this
instance was evidently an entrenched camp thrown up to the west of the
castle, and employed probably as the headquarters of a blockade. In this
reign also the conquest of South Wales was completed, and the foundations
laid of a chain of castles from Gloucester and Hereford to Pembroke, the
main links of which were Chepstow and Abergavenny, Caerleon and
Cardiff, Builth and Brecknock, Caerkennen, Caermarthen, Cardigan, Tenby,
and Carew. How far these Welsh castles were at once constructed of
masonry is uncertain. Besides Chepstow, two only, or at most three, and
those subordinate, Ogmore, Penlline, and Newcastle, exhibit decided
Norman features; but however this may be, neither Fitz-Hamon,
Newmarch, nor Arnulph of Montgomery were likely, in the face of foes so
formidable, to be satisfied with defences in any way inferior to the strongest
of that day.
The reign of Henry I. was prolific in castles. It is probable that to him is
due the greater number of our extant rectangular keeps, by the construction
of which he carried to completion the plans sketched out by his father,
which his brother had been too busy and too much pressed to take in hand.
In this reign, especially between 1114 and 1121, most of the Welsh castles
were completed. Bristol and Cardiff castles were the work of Robert Earl of
Gloucester. Bishop Roger of Salisbury built Sherborne, Salisbury, the
Devizes, and Malmesbury; and his brother, Alexander of Lincoln, Sleaford
and Newark. “Castella erant crebra per totam Angliam.” Most of these were
great and strong, very different from the hasty and unlicensed structures of
the succeeding reign.
Henry, like Rufus, commenced his reign with the taking of Winchester
with its treasures. Flambard, who had been entrusted with the great
episcopal castles of Durham and Norham, was imprisoned in the keep of
London. The outlawry of Robert Malet and Robert de Lacy, in 1101, gave
Henry their castles in Yorkshire and Suffolk; and in 1102 Ivo de
Graintmaisnel was driven from his mound at Hinckley, and forced to flee
the country. Also the King obtained, by forfeiture, the castles of William de
Warenne, though these were afterwards restored. Henry, in 1103, laid his
Page 65
hands upon Arnulph de Montgomery’s castle of Pembroke, and on those of
Robert of Poitou, his brother, between the Ribble and the Mersey. The death
of William Earl of Moretaine brought in the almost impregnable hill-castle
of Montacute, with Trematon, Launceston, Tintagel, Boscastle, and
Restormel, and other Cornish fortresses. The fall of Robert de Belesme
gave the crown the castles of Arundel,—a lesser Windsor in its plan, and
scarcely inferior in its position; of Shrewsbury, the mound of which still
towers over the Severn, and dwarfs even the extensive and incongruous
railway-station at its foot; of Bridgenorth, where a fragment of the keep
shows what it must once have been; and of Carreghova, of which the very
traces are well-nigh effaced. Belesme retired to Normandy, where he is said
to have been lord of thirty-four castles; but the fragments of his power only
betrayed him into further rebellion, so that he ended his life a prisoner and
an exile on the castled mound of Wareham.
There still remained, indeed, in private hands a considerable number of
castles, the owners of which found it convenient to give way, and thus to
retain a portion of their influence. Such were Bourne in Lincolnshire;
Malton, held by Fitz-John, in Yorkshire; Beaudesert in Warwickshire; the
episcopal castles of Newark and Sleaford, and that of Oakham. There were
also Warblington in Hampshire; and in Cumberland, Egremont and
Cockermouth.
The rebellion of 1118 gave to Henry the castles of Hugh de Gournay in
the west, of Stephen of Albemarle at Scarborough, of Eustace of Breteuil, of
Richard de l’Aigle, and of Henry Earl of Eu; together with the Mowbray
castles of Thirsk, Malzeard, and Burton in Lonsdale. Nearly the whole of
the strongholds thus acquired were retained by Henry in his own hands, and
Suger states that in Normandy the principal castles were by him either
destroyed or held: “Fere omnes turres et quæcunque fortissima castra
Normanniæ ... aut eversum iri fecit ... aut si dirutæ essent propriæ voluntati
subjugavit.” In either country he laid hands on the castles; but where the
delinquents held in both, it was upon those in England that the forfeiture
was most rigidly enforced. Among the exceptions were William de
Roumare, who was allowed to hold Lincoln; and similar protection was
shown to Ralph de Conches, William de Tancarville, William de Warenne,
Walter Giffard, and William d’Albini. Among their castles were Ryegate,
Lewes, Coningsburgh, and Castle Rising, Buckingham and Arundel.
Robert of Poitou, his brother, between the Ribble and the Mersey. The death
of William Earl of Moretaine brought in the almost impregnable hill-castle
of Montacute, with Trematon, Launceston, Tintagel, Boscastle, and
Restormel, and other Cornish fortresses. The fall of Robert de Belesme
gave the crown the castles of Arundel,—a lesser Windsor in its plan, and
scarcely inferior in its position; of Shrewsbury, the mound of which still
towers over the Severn, and dwarfs even the extensive and incongruous
railway-station at its foot; of Bridgenorth, where a fragment of the keep
shows what it must once have been; and of Carreghova, of which the very
traces are well-nigh effaced. Belesme retired to Normandy, where he is said
to have been lord of thirty-four castles; but the fragments of his power only
betrayed him into further rebellion, so that he ended his life a prisoner and
an exile on the castled mound of Wareham.
There still remained, indeed, in private hands a considerable number of
castles, the owners of which found it convenient to give way, and thus to
retain a portion of their influence. Such were Bourne in Lincolnshire;
Malton, held by Fitz-John, in Yorkshire; Beaudesert in Warwickshire; the
episcopal castles of Newark and Sleaford, and that of Oakham. There were
also Warblington in Hampshire; and in Cumberland, Egremont and
Cockermouth.
The rebellion of 1118 gave to Henry the castles of Hugh de Gournay in
the west, of Stephen of Albemarle at Scarborough, of Eustace of Breteuil, of
Richard de l’Aigle, and of Henry Earl of Eu; together with the Mowbray
castles of Thirsk, Malzeard, and Burton in Lonsdale. Nearly the whole of
the strongholds thus acquired were retained by Henry in his own hands, and
Suger states that in Normandy the principal castles were by him either
destroyed or held: “Fere omnes turres et quæcunque fortissima castra
Normanniæ ... aut eversum iri fecit ... aut si dirutæ essent propriæ voluntati
subjugavit.” In either country he laid hands on the castles; but where the
delinquents held in both, it was upon those in England that the forfeiture
was most rigidly enforced. Among the exceptions were William de
Roumare, who was allowed to hold Lincoln; and similar protection was
shown to Ralph de Conches, William de Tancarville, William de Warenne,
Walter Giffard, and William d’Albini. Among their castles were Ryegate,
Lewes, Coningsburgh, and Castle Rising, Buckingham and Arundel.
Page 66
It has been said that Henry did not himself construct any new castles.
This is probable enough, as all the sites of importance had been occupied by
his father; but it is not improbable, judging from the internal evidence
afforded by their remains, that he completed such of his father’s castles as
were left unfinished. Of baronial castles, the grand fortress of Kenilworth,
by far the most important strong place in the midland counties, was
constructed in this reign, though very probably upon an English site, by the
founder of the house of Clinton. In this reign also were probably
constructed the masonry of Northampton Castle, by Simon de St. Liz, and
that of Old Sarum and Odiham by Bishop Roger. The keep of St. Briavel’s,
now destroyed, was reconstructed, or built of masonry; and Ralph Flambard
laid the foundations of and seems to have completed the keep of Norham.
The issue of the contest between Matilda and Stephen turned very much
upon the castles over which each had control. It was again by the seizure of
Winchester Castle and its treasure that Stephen was able to celebrate his
coronation in the adjacent cathedral. It was under the walls of Reading
Castle, strongly placed between the meeting of the Kennet and the Thames,
that he trusted himself to meet Matilda’s adherents, and with them to lay the
corpse of her father before the altar of the great Abbey that he had founded,
and the ruins of which have long survived those of its secular neighbour.
From Oxford, strong in its walled city and partially water-girdled keep,
Stephen issued his first charter, so full of promises to his new subjects; and
thence he went to Durham, one of the strongest castles of the North, to meet
David of Scotland, who had wasted the border from Carlisle to Newcastle,
and taken Alnwick and Norham, though foiled before Wark and
Bamborough. One of David’s principal concessions was the castle of
Newcastle. On the other hand, he obtained the confirmation to him of that
of Carlisle, long the gate of Scotland. The two, posted one at each end of
the lines of Severus and Hadrian, are still tolerably perfect, as is the
impregnable Bamburgh, the Norman keep of which, in Stephen’s time, was
new.
From Oxford, still his central stronghold, on his return to the South,
Stephen conceded his second charter, less distinct in its promises as the
danger of his position seemed less pressing. On the report of his death in
1136, it was trust in their strong castles of Exeter, Plympton, Okehampton,
Norwich, Framlingham, and Bungay, that encouraged Baldwin de Redvers
This is probable enough, as all the sites of importance had been occupied by
his father; but it is not improbable, judging from the internal evidence
afforded by their remains, that he completed such of his father’s castles as
were left unfinished. Of baronial castles, the grand fortress of Kenilworth,
by far the most important strong place in the midland counties, was
constructed in this reign, though very probably upon an English site, by the
founder of the house of Clinton. In this reign also were probably
constructed the masonry of Northampton Castle, by Simon de St. Liz, and
that of Old Sarum and Odiham by Bishop Roger. The keep of St. Briavel’s,
now destroyed, was reconstructed, or built of masonry; and Ralph Flambard
laid the foundations of and seems to have completed the keep of Norham.
The issue of the contest between Matilda and Stephen turned very much
upon the castles over which each had control. It was again by the seizure of
Winchester Castle and its treasure that Stephen was able to celebrate his
coronation in the adjacent cathedral. It was under the walls of Reading
Castle, strongly placed between the meeting of the Kennet and the Thames,
that he trusted himself to meet Matilda’s adherents, and with them to lay the
corpse of her father before the altar of the great Abbey that he had founded,
and the ruins of which have long survived those of its secular neighbour.
From Oxford, strong in its walled city and partially water-girdled keep,
Stephen issued his first charter, so full of promises to his new subjects; and
thence he went to Durham, one of the strongest castles of the North, to meet
David of Scotland, who had wasted the border from Carlisle to Newcastle,
and taken Alnwick and Norham, though foiled before Wark and
Bamborough. One of David’s principal concessions was the castle of
Newcastle. On the other hand, he obtained the confirmation to him of that
of Carlisle, long the gate of Scotland. The two, posted one at each end of
the lines of Severus and Hadrian, are still tolerably perfect, as is the
impregnable Bamburgh, the Norman keep of which, in Stephen’s time, was
new.
From Oxford, still his central stronghold, on his return to the South,
Stephen conceded his second charter, less distinct in its promises as the
danger of his position seemed less pressing. On the report of his death in
1136, it was trust in their strong castles of Exeter, Plympton, Okehampton,
Norwich, Framlingham, and Bungay, that encouraged Baldwin de Redvers
Page 67
and Hugh Bigot to rise in arms. Bath had then a castle and was a walled
town. Stephen laid siege to and took the castle, and thence, with two
hundred horse, rode to Exeter, where Rougemont, its citadel, was strong and
well garrisoned. The siege was a remarkable one, and the warlike machines
employed both within and without were of a formidable character. The
citizens were with Stephen, so the attack was on the city front. The bridge
from the city, still standing, was one point of attack. A “malvoisin” was
constructed, whence stones were poured in upon the garrison; the walls
were ruined, and the towers much injured. Finally the well ran dry, and the
garrison surrendered upon terms. Plympton also capitulated, and Norwich
was taken.
On Stephen’s arrival from Normandy, in 1137, he secured the castles of
Bourne, Wareham, and Corfe, the two latter held by Fitz-Alured and
Redvers. A second rising, in 1138, timed with an invasion by the Scots,
turned in some degree upon the strength of the castle of Bedford, then
including a pair of moated mounds on the opposite banks of the Ouse, of
which one is entirely removed, and the other remains deprived of its
masonry, and shorn of its fair dimensions. This castle was held by the sons
of Milo de Beauchamp, its owner, and only surrendered after a long and
severe siege conducted by Stephen in person, which terminated in a
blockade. The defence was very able, and the surrender upon fair terms.
Meantime David, linking the interests of Matilda with his own claims to
the great earldom of Huntingdon, twice crossed the border in the spring of
1128, retiring as Stephen approached, but a third time returning in August.
He took Norham, and much injured its superb keep, built by Bishop
Flambard in 1121, a noble ruin which still frowns over the Tweed, and is
rich in historical recollections. Bamburgh, Alnwick, and Malton were held
for Stephen by Eustace Fitz-John. Parts of the wall and inner gate of
Alnwick are of about this date; but Malton has disappeared, though the
earlier Roman camp may still be traced. David’s progress was also checked
by Clitheroe, a very strong castle, of which the Norman keep, one of the
very smallest extant, crowns the top of an almost impregnable rock.
At this period Stephen’s position was most critical. Against him, on the
Welsh Marches, Talbot held Goderich and Hereford, while Ludlow and
Dudley, Shrewsbury and Whittington, were in the hands of Paganel, Fitz-
Alan, and William Peverel. Further south, the barons of Somerset were
town. Stephen laid siege to and took the castle, and thence, with two
hundred horse, rode to Exeter, where Rougemont, its citadel, was strong and
well garrisoned. The siege was a remarkable one, and the warlike machines
employed both within and without were of a formidable character. The
citizens were with Stephen, so the attack was on the city front. The bridge
from the city, still standing, was one point of attack. A “malvoisin” was
constructed, whence stones were poured in upon the garrison; the walls
were ruined, and the towers much injured. Finally the well ran dry, and the
garrison surrendered upon terms. Plympton also capitulated, and Norwich
was taken.
On Stephen’s arrival from Normandy, in 1137, he secured the castles of
Bourne, Wareham, and Corfe, the two latter held by Fitz-Alured and
Redvers. A second rising, in 1138, timed with an invasion by the Scots,
turned in some degree upon the strength of the castle of Bedford, then
including a pair of moated mounds on the opposite banks of the Ouse, of
which one is entirely removed, and the other remains deprived of its
masonry, and shorn of its fair dimensions. This castle was held by the sons
of Milo de Beauchamp, its owner, and only surrendered after a long and
severe siege conducted by Stephen in person, which terminated in a
blockade. The defence was very able, and the surrender upon fair terms.
Meantime David, linking the interests of Matilda with his own claims to
the great earldom of Huntingdon, twice crossed the border in the spring of
1128, retiring as Stephen approached, but a third time returning in August.
He took Norham, and much injured its superb keep, built by Bishop
Flambard in 1121, a noble ruin which still frowns over the Tweed, and is
rich in historical recollections. Bamburgh, Alnwick, and Malton were held
for Stephen by Eustace Fitz-John. Parts of the wall and inner gate of
Alnwick are of about this date; but Malton has disappeared, though the
earlier Roman camp may still be traced. David’s progress was also checked
by Clitheroe, a very strong castle, of which the Norman keep, one of the
very smallest extant, crowns the top of an almost impregnable rock.
At this period Stephen’s position was most critical. Against him, on the
Welsh Marches, Talbot held Goderich and Hereford, while Ludlow and
Dudley, Shrewsbury and Whittington, were in the hands of Paganel, Fitz-
Alan, and William Peverel. Further south, the barons of Somerset were
Page 68
encouraged against him by William de Mohun from his hold at Dunster,
strong naturally and by art; and by Fitz-John at Harptree, a castle in the
defiles of the Mendips; while Maminot both held and strongly augmented
Dover. Stephen, however, was active and he was brave. Leaving
Archbishop Thurstan to muster and encourage his northern supporters, he
himself marched south, strengthened the garrison of Bath, and threatened
Bristol. Thence he entered Somerset, and took by siege the Lovel seat of
Castle Cary, of which the earthworks cover a hillside; secured Harptree by
surprise, and thence doubled back upon Hereford, which won, he next
recovered the old British and English fortress of Pengwern or Shrewsbury.
Bristol alone held out, strong in its newly-built keep, and in the presence of
Robert Earl of Gloucester, its builder.
The “battle of the Standard,” a.d. 1138, was fought in the open field,
under the leadership of D’Aumâle; but it was also named from North
Allerton, where, intersected by the railway, are still seen formidable
earthworks far older than Bishop Puiset’s castle which surmounted them,
and which was afterwards entirely razed by Henry II. The victory of North
Allerton was enhanced by the capture of Dover by Stephen’s Queen. The
castle of Carlisle still remained in the possession of King David, and thence
he renewed the war, and in the following year obtained for his son Henry
the earldom of Northumberland; with the exception, however, of the castles
of Newcastle and Bamburgh.
When, in 1139, Stephen’s change of policy lost him the support of the
clergy, led by his ambitious brother the Bishop of Winchester, his first blow
was struck at the episcopal castles. Of these, the Devizes, Sherborne, and
Malmesbury belonged to Bishop Roger of Sarum. Malmesbury, an
episcopal encroachment upon the adjacent Abbey, was wholly the Bishop’s
work, and is now utterly destroyed. Sherborne, a very ancient episcopal
seat, still retains its early earthworks, and a keep and gatehouse, the work of
Bishop Roger; and although of the Devizes there remain but a few
fragments of its circular keep, the earthworks (the grandest in England)
show that it may well have deserved its great reputation. These Stephen
seized upon, and he also took Newark-upon-Trent, still admired for its lofty
and extended front, and for its magnificent Norman entrance. With Newark
fell Sleaford, both built by Bishop Alexander of Lincoln, nephew of Bishop
Roger, and also a great builder of castles. Sleaford is utterly demolished,
strong naturally and by art; and by Fitz-John at Harptree, a castle in the
defiles of the Mendips; while Maminot both held and strongly augmented
Dover. Stephen, however, was active and he was brave. Leaving
Archbishop Thurstan to muster and encourage his northern supporters, he
himself marched south, strengthened the garrison of Bath, and threatened
Bristol. Thence he entered Somerset, and took by siege the Lovel seat of
Castle Cary, of which the earthworks cover a hillside; secured Harptree by
surprise, and thence doubled back upon Hereford, which won, he next
recovered the old British and English fortress of Pengwern or Shrewsbury.
Bristol alone held out, strong in its newly-built keep, and in the presence of
Robert Earl of Gloucester, its builder.
The “battle of the Standard,” a.d. 1138, was fought in the open field,
under the leadership of D’Aumâle; but it was also named from North
Allerton, where, intersected by the railway, are still seen formidable
earthworks far older than Bishop Puiset’s castle which surmounted them,
and which was afterwards entirely razed by Henry II. The victory of North
Allerton was enhanced by the capture of Dover by Stephen’s Queen. The
castle of Carlisle still remained in the possession of King David, and thence
he renewed the war, and in the following year obtained for his son Henry
the earldom of Northumberland; with the exception, however, of the castles
of Newcastle and Bamburgh.
When, in 1139, Stephen’s change of policy lost him the support of the
clergy, led by his ambitious brother the Bishop of Winchester, his first blow
was struck at the episcopal castles. Of these, the Devizes, Sherborne, and
Malmesbury belonged to Bishop Roger of Sarum. Malmesbury, an
episcopal encroachment upon the adjacent Abbey, was wholly the Bishop’s
work, and is now utterly destroyed. Sherborne, a very ancient episcopal
seat, still retains its early earthworks, and a keep and gatehouse, the work of
Bishop Roger; and although of the Devizes there remain but a few
fragments of its circular keep, the earthworks (the grandest in England)
show that it may well have deserved its great reputation. These Stephen
seized upon, and he also took Newark-upon-Trent, still admired for its lofty
and extended front, and for its magnificent Norman entrance. With Newark
fell Sleaford, both built by Bishop Alexander of Lincoln, nephew of Bishop
Roger, and also a great builder of castles. Sleaford is utterly demolished,
Page 69
and being entirely post-conquestal, had scarcely any earthworks to preserve
its memory.
Among the events of this important year were the taking of Nottingham
and Marlborough Castles by Stephen; his attack on Ludlow; the appearance
on the scene of his rival, the Empress Matilda; and his siege of Arundel, in
which castle she took refuge with D’Albini and Queen Adeliza his wife.
Nottingham is gone. Of Marlborough only a fine mound remains, upon
which stood its circular keep. Much of Ludlow, especially its rectangular
keep, played a part in Stephen’s siege, as did a part of the existing exterior
wall, whence the grappling-hook was thrown by which the King was
hooked, and was being dragged up to its battlements, when he was rescued
by the Scottish Prince Henry. Arundel preserves its earthworks pretty much
as they must have appeared in the reign of the Confessor; and with its shell-
keep on its mound, and the original gatehouse at its foot, gives to the
modern visitor a fair notion of the appearance of the defences before which
Stephen pitched his camp. It was also in 1139 that De Redvers, returning to
England, landed under the Conqueror’s castle of Wareham, on the margin of
the Poole water. From Wareham he proceeded to Corfe, a seat of the Kings
of Mercia, where he was besieged by Stephen.
It was during this period of the war between Stephen, Matilda, and the
Church party, that were constructed the multitude of unlicensed castles
(“castra adulterina”) employed not merely for the security of the builders,
but to enable them to prey upon their neighbours with impunity. Nothing
could well be worse than the circumstances under which these castles were
built, and the purposes for which they were employed. “Stephen,” says John
of Tynemouth, quoted by Dugdale, “concessit ut quilibet procerum suorum
munitionem, seu castrum, in proprio fundo facere posset.” William of
Jumieges and Malmesbury compare the times to those of Normandy during
the minority of Duke William; and other writers declare the state of
England to have resembled that of Jerusalem during the Roman siege. There
was no rule and no responsibility. The unhappy peasants were forced to
labour in the construction of the strongholds of tyranny. It would seem that
these castles were built with great rapidity, and with but little expenditure of
labour upon earthworks, for in the next reign they were destroyed without
difficulty, and scarcely any of their sites are now to be recognised. They
were the work of the lesser barons, probably with the connivance of their
its memory.
Among the events of this important year were the taking of Nottingham
and Marlborough Castles by Stephen; his attack on Ludlow; the appearance
on the scene of his rival, the Empress Matilda; and his siege of Arundel, in
which castle she took refuge with D’Albini and Queen Adeliza his wife.
Nottingham is gone. Of Marlborough only a fine mound remains, upon
which stood its circular keep. Much of Ludlow, especially its rectangular
keep, played a part in Stephen’s siege, as did a part of the existing exterior
wall, whence the grappling-hook was thrown by which the King was
hooked, and was being dragged up to its battlements, when he was rescued
by the Scottish Prince Henry. Arundel preserves its earthworks pretty much
as they must have appeared in the reign of the Confessor; and with its shell-
keep on its mound, and the original gatehouse at its foot, gives to the
modern visitor a fair notion of the appearance of the defences before which
Stephen pitched his camp. It was also in 1139 that De Redvers, returning to
England, landed under the Conqueror’s castle of Wareham, on the margin of
the Poole water. From Wareham he proceeded to Corfe, a seat of the Kings
of Mercia, where he was besieged by Stephen.
It was during this period of the war between Stephen, Matilda, and the
Church party, that were constructed the multitude of unlicensed castles
(“castra adulterina”) employed not merely for the security of the builders,
but to enable them to prey upon their neighbours with impunity. Nothing
could well be worse than the circumstances under which these castles were
built, and the purposes for which they were employed. “Stephen,” says John
of Tynemouth, quoted by Dugdale, “concessit ut quilibet procerum suorum
munitionem, seu castrum, in proprio fundo facere posset.” William of
Jumieges and Malmesbury compare the times to those of Normandy during
the minority of Duke William; and other writers declare the state of
England to have resembled that of Jerusalem during the Roman siege. There
was no rule and no responsibility. The unhappy peasants were forced to
labour in the construction of the strongholds of tyranny. It would seem that
these castles were built with great rapidity, and with but little expenditure of
labour upon earthworks, for in the next reign they were destroyed without
difficulty, and scarcely any of their sites are now to be recognised. They
were the work of the lesser barons, probably with the connivance of their
Page 70
chief lords, or even of Stephen and Matilda, who were little scrupulous as to
the terms on which they accepted assistance. This multiplication of castles
without the licence of the sovereign was no novelty, and was forbidden on
the Continent by the celebrated “Edictum Pistense” of Charles the Bald in
864, already cited.
Another irregularity was the admission to the title of earl of several
persons unfitted to receive so great an honour, and whose only claim to
distinction was that they were leaders of mercenaries. Stephen was not in a
condition to endow all of them with the third penny of the revenues of a
county, the usual appanage of an earl. Many of the earls created by Stephen
stood, however, in a very different position. Such were Geoffrey de
Mandeville, Lord of Plessy and Walden, who accepted the Earldom of
Essex from both parties; Alberic de Vere, who built the noble keep of
Hedingham, and was the first of the long line of the Earls of Oxford; Hugh
Bigot, who held the Earldom of Norfolk; Richard de Clare, who held that of
Hertford; D’Aumâle, of Yorkshire; Gilbert de Clare, of Pembroke; Robert
de Ferrers, of Derby; and probably William de Ypres, the Earldom of Kent.
Stephen seems to have created, in all, eight; and the Empress six,—
Cambridge, Cornwall, Essex, Hereford, Salisbury, and Somerset.
From Arundel, Matilda, it is said by Stephen’s courtesy, moved to Bristol,
where her brother, Robert Earl of Gloucester, held his castle on the marshy
confluence of the Frome with the Avon. Robert also at that time held the
royal castle of Gloucester, long since destroyed, and a prison built on its
site; and he was probably builder also of the shell-keep still standing upon
the mound of Cardiff. At that time Matilda’s friends held Dover, with the
square keep of Canterbury, placed just within the enceinte of the yet older
city ditch, and almost within bowshot of the still more venerable mound of
Dane John. Mention is also made of the castles of Trowbridge and Cerne as
recently erected. The latter was taken by Stephen by storm, before the
attack on Malmesbury. Trowbridge held out with success.
The great event of 1141 was the siege, or rather the battle, of Lincoln.
The castle had been surprised, and was held by Ranulph Earl of Chester and
his half-brother William de Roumare. As Stephen approached, Earl Ranulph
left the place secretly to procure assistance from the Earl of Gloucester.
This was afforded, and the two earls, with 10,000 men, some of them Earl
Robert’s Welsh followers, crossed the Trent, and found Stephen drawn up to
the terms on which they accepted assistance. This multiplication of castles
without the licence of the sovereign was no novelty, and was forbidden on
the Continent by the celebrated “Edictum Pistense” of Charles the Bald in
864, already cited.
Another irregularity was the admission to the title of earl of several
persons unfitted to receive so great an honour, and whose only claim to
distinction was that they were leaders of mercenaries. Stephen was not in a
condition to endow all of them with the third penny of the revenues of a
county, the usual appanage of an earl. Many of the earls created by Stephen
stood, however, in a very different position. Such were Geoffrey de
Mandeville, Lord of Plessy and Walden, who accepted the Earldom of
Essex from both parties; Alberic de Vere, who built the noble keep of
Hedingham, and was the first of the long line of the Earls of Oxford; Hugh
Bigot, who held the Earldom of Norfolk; Richard de Clare, who held that of
Hertford; D’Aumâle, of Yorkshire; Gilbert de Clare, of Pembroke; Robert
de Ferrers, of Derby; and probably William de Ypres, the Earldom of Kent.
Stephen seems to have created, in all, eight; and the Empress six,—
Cambridge, Cornwall, Essex, Hereford, Salisbury, and Somerset.
From Arundel, Matilda, it is said by Stephen’s courtesy, moved to Bristol,
where her brother, Robert Earl of Gloucester, held his castle on the marshy
confluence of the Frome with the Avon. Robert also at that time held the
royal castle of Gloucester, long since destroyed, and a prison built on its
site; and he was probably builder also of the shell-keep still standing upon
the mound of Cardiff. At that time Matilda’s friends held Dover, with the
square keep of Canterbury, placed just within the enceinte of the yet older
city ditch, and almost within bowshot of the still more venerable mound of
Dane John. Mention is also made of the castles of Trowbridge and Cerne as
recently erected. The latter was taken by Stephen by storm, before the
attack on Malmesbury. Trowbridge held out with success.
The great event of 1141 was the siege, or rather the battle, of Lincoln.
The castle had been surprised, and was held by Ranulph Earl of Chester and
his half-brother William de Roumare. As Stephen approached, Earl Ranulph
left the place secretly to procure assistance from the Earl of Gloucester.
This was afforded, and the two earls, with 10,000 men, some of them Earl
Robert’s Welsh followers, crossed the Trent, and found Stephen drawn up to
Page 71
receive them. The result of the battle was the capture of Stephen, and the
confirmation of Earl Ranulph in Lincoln Castle. On this Matilda went to her
royal castle at Winchester, a part of the defences of the old Venta Belgarum,
and characterised by a large mound, now removed. Here Bishop Henry, safe
in his rectangular keep of Wolvesey, still standing near the Cathedral, in the
opposite angle of the city, treated with her almost as equal with equal, but
acknowledged her as Lady of England. Their accord, however, was neither
cordial nor of long duration. Upon the Queen’s return, in some discredit,
from London, an open quarrel broke out. She attacked Wolvesey, and the
Bishop retaliated upon the royal castle with better success.
Under the escort of Brian Fitz-Count and Milo, to whom Matilda had
given the Earldom of Hereford and the “Castle and Mote” of that ancient
city, she fled from Winchester, Earl Robert guarding her rear. They were
pursued. Matilda reached Ludgershall Castle in safety, and then went to the
Devizes; but Earl Robert was taken on the way by William of Ypres, and
imprisoned in Rochester Castle. Stephen was then a prisoner in Bristol
Castle; and in November, 1141, the Earl and King were exchanged. A
month later, at the Synod of Westminster, the pains of excommunication
were denounced against all who built new castles, or offered violence to the
poor,—a significant conjunction.
Stephen’s illness and Earl Robert’s absence in Normandy checked for a
short time active hostilities, and meantime Stephen held the Tower of
London, and Matilda the castle of Oxford. Late in 1142, Stephen attacked
and took Oxford, and blockaded the castle until the winter set in, and the
stock of provisions fell short. The Thames was frozen, and the ground
covered with snow, by the aid of which Matilda, robed in white, escaped
across the river, and fled to Fitz-Count at Wallingford. The castle was then
surrendered. Its grand mound is yet untouched; and below it, upon the river,
is a large square tower of the eleventh century. Part of the city wall also
remains.
Before Reading, Stephen had taken several strong but less important
fortresses, such as Bow and Arrow Castle on the Cliff of Portland, which
still remains, and Carisbroke, the strength of the Isle of Wight. He took also
Lulworth, in Purbeck, represented by a far later residence. Cirencester,
which he burned, seems never to have been restored; and Farringdon, built
in haste by the Earl of Gloucester, was also swept away. Stephen’s strength,
confirmation of Earl Ranulph in Lincoln Castle. On this Matilda went to her
royal castle at Winchester, a part of the defences of the old Venta Belgarum,
and characterised by a large mound, now removed. Here Bishop Henry, safe
in his rectangular keep of Wolvesey, still standing near the Cathedral, in the
opposite angle of the city, treated with her almost as equal with equal, but
acknowledged her as Lady of England. Their accord, however, was neither
cordial nor of long duration. Upon the Queen’s return, in some discredit,
from London, an open quarrel broke out. She attacked Wolvesey, and the
Bishop retaliated upon the royal castle with better success.
Under the escort of Brian Fitz-Count and Milo, to whom Matilda had
given the Earldom of Hereford and the “Castle and Mote” of that ancient
city, she fled from Winchester, Earl Robert guarding her rear. They were
pursued. Matilda reached Ludgershall Castle in safety, and then went to the
Devizes; but Earl Robert was taken on the way by William of Ypres, and
imprisoned in Rochester Castle. Stephen was then a prisoner in Bristol
Castle; and in November, 1141, the Earl and King were exchanged. A
month later, at the Synod of Westminster, the pains of excommunication
were denounced against all who built new castles, or offered violence to the
poor,—a significant conjunction.
Stephen’s illness and Earl Robert’s absence in Normandy checked for a
short time active hostilities, and meantime Stephen held the Tower of
London, and Matilda the castle of Oxford. Late in 1142, Stephen attacked
and took Oxford, and blockaded the castle until the winter set in, and the
stock of provisions fell short. The Thames was frozen, and the ground
covered with snow, by the aid of which Matilda, robed in white, escaped
across the river, and fled to Fitz-Count at Wallingford. The castle was then
surrendered. Its grand mound is yet untouched; and below it, upon the river,
is a large square tower of the eleventh century. Part of the city wall also
remains.
Before Reading, Stephen had taken several strong but less important
fortresses, such as Bow and Arrow Castle on the Cliff of Portland, which
still remains, and Carisbroke, the strength of the Isle of Wight. He took also
Lulworth, in Purbeck, represented by a far later residence. Cirencester,
which he burned, seems never to have been restored; and Farringdon, built
in haste by the Earl of Gloucester, was also swept away. Stephen’s strength,
Page 72
however, lay in London and the east; and that of Matilda about Gloucester
and Bristol, and in the west. Stephen also held Pevensey. The great midland
barons stood aloof, biding their time. Thus Roger de Bellomont and his
brother Waleran, of Meulan, held Leicester with its Roman walls and
English earthworks, protected by the meads of the Soar; along the edge of
which, and at the foot of the mound, is still seen the Norman Hall, and hard
by the stately church of St. Mary de Castro, also in large part Norman. They
also held Mount Sorrell, at that time a strong castle built upon a rock of
syenite, but now quarried away, both rock and castle, to macadamise the
highways of the metropolis. Saher de Quincy was strong about Hinckley,
where the early mound, stripped of its masonry (if, indeed, it ever received
any), still guards the eastern entrance to the town. The Earl of Chester held
Lincoln as his own; and the hill of Belvoir, the cynosure of the Midland,
was guarded by the grand shell-keep of Trusbut and De Ros, burned down
and rebuilt after a tasteless fashion in our own days.
In 1146, death deprived Matilda of the Earls of Gloucester and Hereford.
She retired to Normandy; but her place was taken by the younger
Plantagenet, her son. In this year also Stephen availed himself of the
presence of the Earls of Chester and Essex at his court to seize their
persons, and to force them to render up, the one the castles of Lincoln and
Northampton, the other that of Plessy, of which the moated mound and
contained church are still seen, and Stansted Montfitchet, now almost
merged in a railway station, and which then vied with the old castle of the
Bishop of London at Stortford. Walden, also thus gained, is still famous for
its earthworks, and for the fragment of its Norman keep, composed, like
Bramber and Arques, of flint rubble deprived of its ashlar casing.
Earl Geoffrey having thus purchased his liberty, employed it in burning
the castle of Cambridge, the mound of which, sadly reduced in size, still,
from the interior of the Roman camp, overlooks the river. While in pursuit
of the Earl, Stephen is said to have built certain new and probably
temporary castles. More probably he refortified with timber some of the
moated mounds, such as Clare, Eye, and Bures, of which there are many in
Essex and Suffolk. Works in masonry he certainly had neither time nor
means then to construct. Soon afterwards the Bishop of Winchester ceased
to be papal legate, and found it convenient to support his brother’s party,
and persuaded him to refuse permission to Archbishop Theobald to attend
and Bristol, and in the west. Stephen also held Pevensey. The great midland
barons stood aloof, biding their time. Thus Roger de Bellomont and his
brother Waleran, of Meulan, held Leicester with its Roman walls and
English earthworks, protected by the meads of the Soar; along the edge of
which, and at the foot of the mound, is still seen the Norman Hall, and hard
by the stately church of St. Mary de Castro, also in large part Norman. They
also held Mount Sorrell, at that time a strong castle built upon a rock of
syenite, but now quarried away, both rock and castle, to macadamise the
highways of the metropolis. Saher de Quincy was strong about Hinckley,
where the early mound, stripped of its masonry (if, indeed, it ever received
any), still guards the eastern entrance to the town. The Earl of Chester held
Lincoln as his own; and the hill of Belvoir, the cynosure of the Midland,
was guarded by the grand shell-keep of Trusbut and De Ros, burned down
and rebuilt after a tasteless fashion in our own days.
In 1146, death deprived Matilda of the Earls of Gloucester and Hereford.
She retired to Normandy; but her place was taken by the younger
Plantagenet, her son. In this year also Stephen availed himself of the
presence of the Earls of Chester and Essex at his court to seize their
persons, and to force them to render up, the one the castles of Lincoln and
Northampton, the other that of Plessy, of which the moated mound and
contained church are still seen, and Stansted Montfitchet, now almost
merged in a railway station, and which then vied with the old castle of the
Bishop of London at Stortford. Walden, also thus gained, is still famous for
its earthworks, and for the fragment of its Norman keep, composed, like
Bramber and Arques, of flint rubble deprived of its ashlar casing.
Earl Geoffrey having thus purchased his liberty, employed it in burning
the castle of Cambridge, the mound of which, sadly reduced in size, still,
from the interior of the Roman camp, overlooks the river. While in pursuit
of the Earl, Stephen is said to have built certain new and probably
temporary castles. More probably he refortified with timber some of the
moated mounds, such as Clare, Eye, and Bures, of which there are many in
Essex and Suffolk. Works in masonry he certainly had neither time nor
means then to construct. Soon afterwards the Bishop of Winchester ceased
to be papal legate, and found it convenient to support his brother’s party,
and persuaded him to refuse permission to Archbishop Theobald to attend
Page 73
the new Pope at Rheims. Theobald, however, defied the King, and on his
return took shelter within the unusually lofty walls and strong earthworks of
Framlingham, a Bigot castle in Suffolk. About this time mention is made of
castles at Cricklade in Wilts, at Tetbury and at Winchcombe in
Gloucestershire. At Coventry also there was a castle, and another at
Downton in Wiltshire, still celebrated for its moot-hill.
In 1149, York opened its gates to young Henry of Anjou, who assembled
a considerable force, with which he met the royal army at Malmesbury,
though without an actual collision. Of 1151 is on record a curious
convention in which the Earls of Leicester and Chester were concerned,
under which no new castles were to be built between Hinckley and
Coventry, Coventry and Donnington, Donnington and Leicester; nor at
Gateham, nor at Kinoulton, nor between Kinoulton and Belvoir, Belvoir
and Oakham, Oakham and Rockingham. In 1152 occurred the celebrated
siege of Wallingford, held for Matilda by Brian Fitz-Count. Enough of
Wallingford remains to show how strong it must formerly have been; and
the temporal was fully equalled by the spiritual power, for the town, always
small, contained just twice as many churches as apostolic Asia. Stephen,
unable to approach the Castle from its landward side, threw up a work still
to be traced at Crowmarsh, on the left bank of the river, and there posted his
engines. Young Henry, holding Malmesbury, Warwick, and about thirty
other not very distant castles, marched to the relief of Wallingford, and
invested the lines of Crowmarsh, besieging the besiegers. Stephen advanced
to their aid from London, and Henry seems to have moved into the town,
holding the passage of the river at the bridge by a special work. Wallingford
was thus saved, and Henry, early in 1153, laid siege to Stamford, where, as
at York, Hertford, and Buckingham, two mounds commanded the river; and
stormed Nottingham, where were similar works upon the Trent. Stephen,
falling back into the eastern counties, took Ipswich, a castle of which even
the site is lost.
The death of Eustace, Stephen’s son, in August, 1153, paved the way to
an arrangement between the rivals. Stephen was to remain King, and Henry
became his acknowledged successor. William, Stephen’s surviving son, was
to retain the Warenne castles and estates, which included Ryegate, of which
traces remain; Castle-Acre, with its mound and other earthworks, placed
within a Roman encampment; Castle-Rising, one of the least injured and
return took shelter within the unusually lofty walls and strong earthworks of
Framlingham, a Bigot castle in Suffolk. About this time mention is made of
castles at Cricklade in Wilts, at Tetbury and at Winchcombe in
Gloucestershire. At Coventry also there was a castle, and another at
Downton in Wiltshire, still celebrated for its moot-hill.
In 1149, York opened its gates to young Henry of Anjou, who assembled
a considerable force, with which he met the royal army at Malmesbury,
though without an actual collision. Of 1151 is on record a curious
convention in which the Earls of Leicester and Chester were concerned,
under which no new castles were to be built between Hinckley and
Coventry, Coventry and Donnington, Donnington and Leicester; nor at
Gateham, nor at Kinoulton, nor between Kinoulton and Belvoir, Belvoir
and Oakham, Oakham and Rockingham. In 1152 occurred the celebrated
siege of Wallingford, held for Matilda by Brian Fitz-Count. Enough of
Wallingford remains to show how strong it must formerly have been; and
the temporal was fully equalled by the spiritual power, for the town, always
small, contained just twice as many churches as apostolic Asia. Stephen,
unable to approach the Castle from its landward side, threw up a work still
to be traced at Crowmarsh, on the left bank of the river, and there posted his
engines. Young Henry, holding Malmesbury, Warwick, and about thirty
other not very distant castles, marched to the relief of Wallingford, and
invested the lines of Crowmarsh, besieging the besiegers. Stephen advanced
to their aid from London, and Henry seems to have moved into the town,
holding the passage of the river at the bridge by a special work. Wallingford
was thus saved, and Henry, early in 1153, laid siege to Stamford, where, as
at York, Hertford, and Buckingham, two mounds commanded the river; and
stormed Nottingham, where were similar works upon the Trent. Stephen,
falling back into the eastern counties, took Ipswich, a castle of which even
the site is lost.
The death of Eustace, Stephen’s son, in August, 1153, paved the way to
an arrangement between the rivals. Stephen was to remain King, and Henry
became his acknowledged successor. William, Stephen’s surviving son, was
to retain the Warenne castles and estates, which included Ryegate, of which
traces remain; Castle-Acre, with its mound and other earthworks, placed
within a Roman encampment; Castle-Rising, one of the least injured and
Page 74
most remarkable Norman keeps in England; Lewes, with its double mound
and strong natural position; and Coningsburgh, an English site of excessive
strength, though not then as yet celebrated for its noble tower. He also had
the castles of Wirmegay and Bungay, Norwich, and the castle and honour of
Pevensey. It was also agreed that the garrisons of the royal castles generally
should swear allegiance to Henry and to Stephen; and the castellans of
Lincoln, London, Oxford, Southampton, and Windsor gave hostages that on
Stephen’s death they would give them over to Henry. It was also agreed at a
conference at Dunstable in 1154, that all castles built since the death of
Henry I. should be destroyed (a clause which may be taken to show that no
absolutely new castles of very great importance had been built by Matilda
or Stephen); and that all mercenary troops should be sent back to their own
countries. The office of sheriff, as representing the crown in the counties,
was to be strengthened.
Stephen died in October, 1154, and his rival ascended the throne as
Henry II. without opposition.
and strong natural position; and Coningsburgh, an English site of excessive
strength, though not then as yet celebrated for its noble tower. He also had
the castles of Wirmegay and Bungay, Norwich, and the castle and honour of
Pevensey. It was also agreed that the garrisons of the royal castles generally
should swear allegiance to Henry and to Stephen; and the castellans of
Lincoln, London, Oxford, Southampton, and Windsor gave hostages that on
Stephen’s death they would give them over to Henry. It was also agreed at a
conference at Dunstable in 1154, that all castles built since the death of
Henry I. should be destroyed (a clause which may be taken to show that no
absolutely new castles of very great importance had been built by Matilda
or Stephen); and that all mercenary troops should be sent back to their own
countries. The office of sheriff, as representing the crown in the counties,
was to be strengthened.
Stephen died in October, 1154, and his rival ascended the throne as
Henry II. without opposition.
Page 75
CHAPTER V.
THE POLITICAL INFLUENCE OF CASTLES IN THE REIGN OF HENRY II.
HENRY II. was a great builder, and especially of military works. “In muris,
in propugnaculis, in munitionibus, in fossatis, ... nullus subtilior, nullus
magnificentior, invenitur.” This, however, does not so much refer to new
castles, of which he built but few, as to the completion or addition of new
keeps to the old ones, such, for example, as Dover.
A few days after his arrival in England he received the fealty of the
magnates of the realm at Winchester Castle, and was crowned at
Westminster, 19th December, immediately after which he granted to
William, Earl of Arundel, the castle and honour of Arundel and the third
penny of the county of Sussex. This was probably for life, for upon the
Earl’s death in 1176 the castle and county reverted to the Crown, and were
re-granted. Notwithstanding this beginning, Henry was fully determined to
carry out the policy agreed upon at Wallingford in the face of the nation. A
few days later he attended a council at Bermondsey, at which it was decided
to order all foreign mercenaries to quit the kingdom on pain of death, and to
raze all castles erected in the reign of Stephen. This decision was felt on all
sides to be absolutely required; and it was, to a great extent, at once acted
upon. Of these “castra adulterina” he destroyed, by some accounts, 375; by
others, 1,115. Unfortunately, their names and sites have rarely been
preserved, and can only be inferred where a castle played a part in the wars
of Stephen and Matilda, and is not afterwards mentioned. These castles
were, no doubt, built usually by men of limited means, and in haste; but
even a small and badly-built castle of masonry would require some labour
and outlay of money for its destruction. Possibly many of these buildings
were of timber, upon the existing mounds. Also there are found slight
earthworks of no great height or area, the plan of which seems that of a
Norman castle, and which not improbably belong to this period. At Eaton-
Socon, in Bedfordshire, and Lilbourne, in Northamptonshire, are such
earthworks. Farringdon and Mount Sorrel Castles, and those of Stansted
and Hinckley, Coventry, Cricklade,and Winchcombe, are thought to have
THE POLITICAL INFLUENCE OF CASTLES IN THE REIGN OF HENRY II.
HENRY II. was a great builder, and especially of military works. “In muris,
in propugnaculis, in munitionibus, in fossatis, ... nullus subtilior, nullus
magnificentior, invenitur.” This, however, does not so much refer to new
castles, of which he built but few, as to the completion or addition of new
keeps to the old ones, such, for example, as Dover.
A few days after his arrival in England he received the fealty of the
magnates of the realm at Winchester Castle, and was crowned at
Westminster, 19th December, immediately after which he granted to
William, Earl of Arundel, the castle and honour of Arundel and the third
penny of the county of Sussex. This was probably for life, for upon the
Earl’s death in 1176 the castle and county reverted to the Crown, and were
re-granted. Notwithstanding this beginning, Henry was fully determined to
carry out the policy agreed upon at Wallingford in the face of the nation. A
few days later he attended a council at Bermondsey, at which it was decided
to order all foreign mercenaries to quit the kingdom on pain of death, and to
raze all castles erected in the reign of Stephen. This decision was felt on all
sides to be absolutely required; and it was, to a great extent, at once acted
upon. Of these “castra adulterina” he destroyed, by some accounts, 375; by
others, 1,115. Unfortunately, their names and sites have rarely been
preserved, and can only be inferred where a castle played a part in the wars
of Stephen and Matilda, and is not afterwards mentioned. These castles
were, no doubt, built usually by men of limited means, and in haste; but
even a small and badly-built castle of masonry would require some labour
and outlay of money for its destruction. Possibly many of these buildings
were of timber, upon the existing mounds. Also there are found slight
earthworks of no great height or area, the plan of which seems that of a
Norman castle, and which not improbably belong to this period. At Eaton-
Socon, in Bedfordshire, and Lilbourne, in Northamptonshire, are such
earthworks. Farringdon and Mount Sorrel Castles, and those of Stansted
and Hinckley, Coventry, Cricklade,and Winchcombe, are thought to have
Page 76
been dismantled at this time. Drax Castle, in Yorkshire, stood out, and was
destroyed, as, though far less completely, were Bungay and Tutbury, Thirsk,
Malzeard, and Groby. Under the pressure of the times even ecclesiastical
buildings had been occupied as castles. Ramsey and Coventry Abbeys were
so used by Geoffrey Glanville and Robert Marmion, and the fine church of
Bridlington by D’Aumâle.
Henry strove to carry out the new policy without respect for rank or
party; but when he threatened the strongholds of the great nobles his
difficulties began. Hugh Mortimer and Roger, son of Milo Earl of Hereford
and High Constable, old supporters of Matilda, refused to surrender
Wigmore, Cleobury, Bridgenorth, Hereford, and Gloucester. Henry at once
took action. Leaving Wallingford Castle in the spring of 1155, he laid siege
to Bridgenorth, whence one of his letters is dated “apud Brugiam in
obsidione.” He also took by siege Cleobury and Wigmore. This success
caused the Earl of Hereford to surrender Hereford and Gloucester, where
Henry had received much of his education; and on his protestation of
submission, the Earl was allowed to retain Hereford. Henry, Bishop of
Winchester, Stephen’s brother, was forced to flee the country, and his
castles were ordered to be destroyed; and that this order was executed
appears from the charge for the work entered in the Pipe Roll for 1155–6. In
like manner D’Aumâle, a baron of the house of Champagne, whose power
lay in Holderness, and who had commanded at Northallerton, was forced, in
January, 1155, after a short resistance, to give up Scarborough, the strongest
castle in Holderness, and Skipsea, not far its inferior. Henry also visited
Northampton, Nottingham, Lincoln, and York, and some of the western
castles and counties. At Windsor the “fermor” of the castle expended £4.
15s. 5d. in his reception “in corredio regis.” According to Mr. Eyton, 140
castles were destroyed in the course of 1155. William of Ypres, a turbulent
leader of Flemish mercenaries, who had been created Earl of Kent by
Stephen in 1141, was banished. He was one of the “pseudo Comites.”
A part of the new policy, though not at once enforced, was the
introduction, to a certain extent, of a money commutation for personal
military service. The new payment, under the name of “scutage,” became an
important branch of the revenue of the Crown. A rule was also established,
which, if not always acted upon, was well understood, that no man should
destroyed, as, though far less completely, were Bungay and Tutbury, Thirsk,
Malzeard, and Groby. Under the pressure of the times even ecclesiastical
buildings had been occupied as castles. Ramsey and Coventry Abbeys were
so used by Geoffrey Glanville and Robert Marmion, and the fine church of
Bridlington by D’Aumâle.
Henry strove to carry out the new policy without respect for rank or
party; but when he threatened the strongholds of the great nobles his
difficulties began. Hugh Mortimer and Roger, son of Milo Earl of Hereford
and High Constable, old supporters of Matilda, refused to surrender
Wigmore, Cleobury, Bridgenorth, Hereford, and Gloucester. Henry at once
took action. Leaving Wallingford Castle in the spring of 1155, he laid siege
to Bridgenorth, whence one of his letters is dated “apud Brugiam in
obsidione.” He also took by siege Cleobury and Wigmore. This success
caused the Earl of Hereford to surrender Hereford and Gloucester, where
Henry had received much of his education; and on his protestation of
submission, the Earl was allowed to retain Hereford. Henry, Bishop of
Winchester, Stephen’s brother, was forced to flee the country, and his
castles were ordered to be destroyed; and that this order was executed
appears from the charge for the work entered in the Pipe Roll for 1155–6. In
like manner D’Aumâle, a baron of the house of Champagne, whose power
lay in Holderness, and who had commanded at Northallerton, was forced, in
January, 1155, after a short resistance, to give up Scarborough, the strongest
castle in Holderness, and Skipsea, not far its inferior. Henry also visited
Northampton, Nottingham, Lincoln, and York, and some of the western
castles and counties. At Windsor the “fermor” of the castle expended £4.
15s. 5d. in his reception “in corredio regis.” According to Mr. Eyton, 140
castles were destroyed in the course of 1155. William of Ypres, a turbulent
leader of Flemish mercenaries, who had been created Earl of Kent by
Stephen in 1141, was banished. He was one of the “pseudo Comites.”
A part of the new policy, though not at once enforced, was the
introduction, to a certain extent, of a money commutation for personal
military service. The new payment, under the name of “scutage,” became an
important branch of the revenue of the Crown. A rule was also established,
which, if not always acted upon, was well understood, that no man should
Page 77
build a castle, or convert his dwelling into a “domus defensabilis,” without
a licence from the King.
In 1156 Henry went, by way of Dover, to the Continent, where he took
Mirabeau and Chinon, one of his charters being dated “Mirabel in
obsidione,” and another, “apud Chinon in exercitu”; nor did he return to
England till 1157, when he was at Southampton Castle, and went thence to
Ongar, Richard de Lacy’s Essex castle, and received from William Count of
Mortaine, King Stephen’s son, Pevensey and the Warenne castles, which
had fallen to him with the name and estates of that family. Hugh Bigot also
gave up Norwich, and made a general submission. Henry then visited
Colchester and other Essex castles, and thence proceeded to Northampton.
Malcolm of Scotland was fain to follow the example of his English friends,
and gave up Carlisle, Bamborough, and Newcastle, together with the three
northern counties. His personal submission was made to Henry at Peveril’s
Castle in the Peak, on which occasion the sheriff’s expenses on his behalf
were considerable. Malcolm was allowed to retain his grandmother’s
honour and castle of Huntingdon.
The destruction of so many smaller and later castles restored to their
former prominence those of greater strength and older date, which, being
for the most part necessary for the defence of the kingdom, were preserved
and strengthened, and entrusted to castellans of approved fidelity. Becket,
before his ecclesiastical promotion, thus received the castles of the Tower
and of Berkhampstead, and the castle and honour of Eye.
One of Henry’s chief difficulties arose out of the position of the marcher-
lords, such as the De Clares and the Mareschals, whose almost regal
powers, granted originally to enable them to hold the frontier against the
Welsh, were more frequently used, in conjunction with the Welsh, to coerce
the sovereign.
In 1157 Henry invaded North Wales, and while traversing Counsyth, a
Flintshire pass, was for a moment in great personal peril. It was on this
occasion that Henry de Essex threw down the standard and fled, and thus
forfeited his castle of Raleigh. On his way back Henry repaired the castles
of Basingwerk and Rhuddlan, and probably directed the construction of
Bere Castle, a very curious fortress with some ornamental details in the
a licence from the King.
In 1156 Henry went, by way of Dover, to the Continent, where he took
Mirabeau and Chinon, one of his charters being dated “Mirabel in
obsidione,” and another, “apud Chinon in exercitu”; nor did he return to
England till 1157, when he was at Southampton Castle, and went thence to
Ongar, Richard de Lacy’s Essex castle, and received from William Count of
Mortaine, King Stephen’s son, Pevensey and the Warenne castles, which
had fallen to him with the name and estates of that family. Hugh Bigot also
gave up Norwich, and made a general submission. Henry then visited
Colchester and other Essex castles, and thence proceeded to Northampton.
Malcolm of Scotland was fain to follow the example of his English friends,
and gave up Carlisle, Bamborough, and Newcastle, together with the three
northern counties. His personal submission was made to Henry at Peveril’s
Castle in the Peak, on which occasion the sheriff’s expenses on his behalf
were considerable. Malcolm was allowed to retain his grandmother’s
honour and castle of Huntingdon.
The destruction of so many smaller and later castles restored to their
former prominence those of greater strength and older date, which, being
for the most part necessary for the defence of the kingdom, were preserved
and strengthened, and entrusted to castellans of approved fidelity. Becket,
before his ecclesiastical promotion, thus received the castles of the Tower
and of Berkhampstead, and the castle and honour of Eye.
One of Henry’s chief difficulties arose out of the position of the marcher-
lords, such as the De Clares and the Mareschals, whose almost regal
powers, granted originally to enable them to hold the frontier against the
Welsh, were more frequently used, in conjunction with the Welsh, to coerce
the sovereign.
In 1157 Henry invaded North Wales, and while traversing Counsyth, a
Flintshire pass, was for a moment in great personal peril. It was on this
occasion that Henry de Essex threw down the standard and fled, and thus
forfeited his castle of Raleigh. On his way back Henry repaired the castles
of Basingwerk and Rhuddlan, and probably directed the construction of
Bere Castle, a very curious fortress with some ornamental details in the
Page 78
Early English style, built upon a detached rock in a valley west of Cader
Idris.
In 1158 Henry visited various parts of England. At Carlisle, in January,
he knighted Earl Warenne, but refused that honour to Malcolm King of
Scotland. While there he fortified Wark Castle, the sheriff’s charge for
which was £21. 8s. 11d. At Nottingham he gave to Richard de Haia the
custody “castelli mei de Lincoln,” showing that he claimed it for the Crown.
In August he embarked at Portsmouth or Southampton for Normandy; and
while abroad took the castles of Thouars, Amboise, Fretevel, Moulins, and
Bon-Moulins. In 1159 he was occupied three months at the siege of
Thoulouse, which he failed to take. Other castles in Normandy he took and
repaired; others, again, he destroyed; and he built a few altogether new.
In January, 1163, Becket came to England with the King, and gave great
offence to the baronage by claiming Tonbridge Castle for his see. Towards
the close of the year Henry deprived him of the charge of the castles of Eye
and Berkhampstead; and in December admitted him to a personal interview
at Oxford Castle. In this year Henry was again at Peak Castle, and in
March, 1164, at Porchester. Soon afterwards the strong castle of Tickhill fell
to the Crown by escheat; and Henry spent Christmas at Marlborough, a
royal castle.
In 1165, after a short visit to Normandy, during which the Queen visited
Sherborne Castle, Henry was at Rhuddlan, and caused Basingwerk and the
Flintshire castles to be again put in order. This was fortunate, for the
campaign was unsuccessful. Expenses on that occasion were allowed at
Oswestry (then called Blancmont), Shrawardine, and Chirk Castles. This
was an assertion of ownership on the part of the Crown, although Oswestry
was part of the private estate of William Fitz-Alan, then a minor. Henry
retired to Shrewsbury, and soldiers were brought up from Worcester and
Abergavenny, some of whom were quartered in the Corbet Castle at Caus.
Grosmont, Llantilio or White Castle, and Scenfrith, the Monmouthshire
trilateral, also contributed soldiers. From Shrewsbury, Henry, reinforced,
advanced into Powis-land, and encamped on the Berwyn Mountain, where
he was near being cut off by the Welsh, and had to take refuge at Shotwick
Castle, a small fortress on the root of the peninsula of Wirrall, whence he
retired to Chester, and returned to London.
Idris.
In 1158 Henry visited various parts of England. At Carlisle, in January,
he knighted Earl Warenne, but refused that honour to Malcolm King of
Scotland. While there he fortified Wark Castle, the sheriff’s charge for
which was £21. 8s. 11d. At Nottingham he gave to Richard de Haia the
custody “castelli mei de Lincoln,” showing that he claimed it for the Crown.
In August he embarked at Portsmouth or Southampton for Normandy; and
while abroad took the castles of Thouars, Amboise, Fretevel, Moulins, and
Bon-Moulins. In 1159 he was occupied three months at the siege of
Thoulouse, which he failed to take. Other castles in Normandy he took and
repaired; others, again, he destroyed; and he built a few altogether new.
In January, 1163, Becket came to England with the King, and gave great
offence to the baronage by claiming Tonbridge Castle for his see. Towards
the close of the year Henry deprived him of the charge of the castles of Eye
and Berkhampstead; and in December admitted him to a personal interview
at Oxford Castle. In this year Henry was again at Peak Castle, and in
March, 1164, at Porchester. Soon afterwards the strong castle of Tickhill fell
to the Crown by escheat; and Henry spent Christmas at Marlborough, a
royal castle.
In 1165, after a short visit to Normandy, during which the Queen visited
Sherborne Castle, Henry was at Rhuddlan, and caused Basingwerk and the
Flintshire castles to be again put in order. This was fortunate, for the
campaign was unsuccessful. Expenses on that occasion were allowed at
Oswestry (then called Blancmont), Shrawardine, and Chirk Castles. This
was an assertion of ownership on the part of the Crown, although Oswestry
was part of the private estate of William Fitz-Alan, then a minor. Henry
retired to Shrewsbury, and soldiers were brought up from Worcester and
Abergavenny, some of whom were quartered in the Corbet Castle at Caus.
Grosmont, Llantilio or White Castle, and Scenfrith, the Monmouthshire
trilateral, also contributed soldiers. From Shrewsbury, Henry, reinforced,
advanced into Powis-land, and encamped on the Berwyn Mountain, where
he was near being cut off by the Welsh, and had to take refuge at Shotwick
Castle, a small fortress on the root of the peninsula of Wirrall, whence he
retired to Chester, and returned to London.
Page 79
In February or March, 1166, was compiled the return of military fiefs and
tenants in chief, known as the Liber Niger, and which professes to represent
the feudal military force of the kingdom, though so far only as the division
of the land into military fees was then completed. The Liber Ruber states
the fees, in the reign of Richard I., to have been 32,000. Orderic gives them
at nearly double this, or 60,000. But there are no data for estimating, with
any approach to correctness, the force that the King could bring into the
field. Under Henry I. and Stephen, mercenaries were largely employed,
drawn mainly from Flanders. The Liber Niger has received very valuable
attention at the hands of Mr. Eyton and Professor Stubbs.
Early in Lent in this year Henry embarked at Southampton for
Normandy, where he reduced the castles of Alençon and La Roche Mabile,
and received a visit from the King of Scotland. Late in the year Geoffrey de
Mandeville and Richard de Lacy engaged in an unsuccessful expedition
into North Wales, and again strengthened Basingwerk Castle, during which
they were attacked by the Welsh. Henry remained absent in Normandy,
Gascony, and Brittany about four years, landing at Portsmouth in March,
1170; but he returned to Normandy in June. In October he wrote to Prince
Henry, directing him to restore the honour of Saltwood to the Archbishop.
On the 29th of December, Becket was murdered, the assassins having rested
at Saltwood the preceding night. After the murder they went to
Knaresborough Castle, then held by Hugh de Morville as castellan.
In August, 1171, Henry landed at Portsmouth, and early in September
was in South Wales, where he took Caerleon from Iorwerth ap Owen, and
went on to Pembroke Castle to meet Prince Rhys, to whom he made over a
large part of Cardigan. From Pembroke, or rather from Milford, he went, in
October, to Ireland, whence he returned, by St. David’s and by Cardiff, to
England in April, 1172, and thence embarked from Portsmouth for the
Continent in May.
In April, 1173, the confederacy between the King of France and Prince
Henry, who carried with him the discontented party among the English
barons, broke out into open war in both countries. Henry the elder remained
at Rouen, and with the doubtful exception of a short visit to England was
content to leave the conduct of the war there to the faithful and able Richard
de Lacy.
tenants in chief, known as the Liber Niger, and which professes to represent
the feudal military force of the kingdom, though so far only as the division
of the land into military fees was then completed. The Liber Ruber states
the fees, in the reign of Richard I., to have been 32,000. Orderic gives them
at nearly double this, or 60,000. But there are no data for estimating, with
any approach to correctness, the force that the King could bring into the
field. Under Henry I. and Stephen, mercenaries were largely employed,
drawn mainly from Flanders. The Liber Niger has received very valuable
attention at the hands of Mr. Eyton and Professor Stubbs.
Early in Lent in this year Henry embarked at Southampton for
Normandy, where he reduced the castles of Alençon and La Roche Mabile,
and received a visit from the King of Scotland. Late in the year Geoffrey de
Mandeville and Richard de Lacy engaged in an unsuccessful expedition
into North Wales, and again strengthened Basingwerk Castle, during which
they were attacked by the Welsh. Henry remained absent in Normandy,
Gascony, and Brittany about four years, landing at Portsmouth in March,
1170; but he returned to Normandy in June. In October he wrote to Prince
Henry, directing him to restore the honour of Saltwood to the Archbishop.
On the 29th of December, Becket was murdered, the assassins having rested
at Saltwood the preceding night. After the murder they went to
Knaresborough Castle, then held by Hugh de Morville as castellan.
In August, 1171, Henry landed at Portsmouth, and early in September
was in South Wales, where he took Caerleon from Iorwerth ap Owen, and
went on to Pembroke Castle to meet Prince Rhys, to whom he made over a
large part of Cardigan. From Pembroke, or rather from Milford, he went, in
October, to Ireland, whence he returned, by St. David’s and by Cardiff, to
England in April, 1172, and thence embarked from Portsmouth for the
Continent in May.
In April, 1173, the confederacy between the King of France and Prince
Henry, who carried with him the discontented party among the English
barons, broke out into open war in both countries. Henry the elder remained
at Rouen, and with the doubtful exception of a short visit to England was
content to leave the conduct of the war there to the faithful and able Richard
de Lacy.
Page 80
The English rebellion was of a very grave character. Among the rebels
were the Earls of Chester and Leicester, Ferrars Earl of Derby, Mowbray,
and Paganel. Ferrars held Groby, Tutbury, Burton, and some other castles;
Mowbray held Kinnard’s Ferry Castle in Axholm, Thirsk, and Malzeard,
which seem again to have been repaired or rebuilt; David of Scotland, Earl
of Huntingdon, held that castle; as did Bishop Puiset Norham and Durham.
These northern castles were strong, and supported by the Scottish levies;
but the great body of the baronage was with the king, and even in the North
his party preponderated. It included Umfraville of Prudhoe, De Vesci of
Alnwick, Ros of Hamlake, Bruce of Whorlton and Skelton; and in the south
almost all the great barons. Lacy laid siege to and burned Leicester town;
but the castle seems to have held out. He also, accompanied by Bohun,
marched into the North and wasted the border country and the Lothians.
The royal castles generally were ordered to be victualled and garrisoned.
In September, Robert, Earl of Leicester, landed at Walton in Suffolk with
a body of Flemish mercenaries. Suffolk was, no doubt, selected for the
landing as being opposite to the Flemish ports, and under the local influence
of the house of Bigot, who held the castles of Framlingham and Bungay,
and were hereditary Constables of Norwich, an office often forfeited, but
which gave them great influence in the city. Leicester and his Flemings
were at once received at Framlingham, and thence besieged Haganet Castle,
governed for the king by Ranulph de Broc. This they took; but failed before
the walls of Dunwich, and thence marched towards Leicester. Meantime
Lacy and Humphrey de Bohun had hurried back from the Scottish border,
were reinforced near Bury by the earls of Arundel, Cornwall, and
Gloucester, and in October came up with the Flemish army at Fornham St.
Geneviève. The invaders were routed, and Leicester and his countess taken
and sent prisoners to Normandy. Lacy’s work was, however, but half
completed. Mowbray still held Axholm, and Earl David, or probably for
him, Anketil Mallori, held Leicester Castle. The King of Scots laid siege to
Carlisle, while his brother took the castles of Knaresborough, Brough, and
Appleby. In May, 1174, Leicester Castle was still untaken, and the Scots
had reduced Warkworth and laid siege to Prudhoe and Alnwick. Lacy was
engaged in the siege of Huntingdon, aided by St. Liz, who claimed it. But a
second body of Flemings had landed, had attacked Norwich, and much
injured Nottingham and Northampton. The Bishop of Lincoln had,
however, taken Axholm.
were the Earls of Chester and Leicester, Ferrars Earl of Derby, Mowbray,
and Paganel. Ferrars held Groby, Tutbury, Burton, and some other castles;
Mowbray held Kinnard’s Ferry Castle in Axholm, Thirsk, and Malzeard,
which seem again to have been repaired or rebuilt; David of Scotland, Earl
of Huntingdon, held that castle; as did Bishop Puiset Norham and Durham.
These northern castles were strong, and supported by the Scottish levies;
but the great body of the baronage was with the king, and even in the North
his party preponderated. It included Umfraville of Prudhoe, De Vesci of
Alnwick, Ros of Hamlake, Bruce of Whorlton and Skelton; and in the south
almost all the great barons. Lacy laid siege to and burned Leicester town;
but the castle seems to have held out. He also, accompanied by Bohun,
marched into the North and wasted the border country and the Lothians.
The royal castles generally were ordered to be victualled and garrisoned.
In September, Robert, Earl of Leicester, landed at Walton in Suffolk with
a body of Flemish mercenaries. Suffolk was, no doubt, selected for the
landing as being opposite to the Flemish ports, and under the local influence
of the house of Bigot, who held the castles of Framlingham and Bungay,
and were hereditary Constables of Norwich, an office often forfeited, but
which gave them great influence in the city. Leicester and his Flemings
were at once received at Framlingham, and thence besieged Haganet Castle,
governed for the king by Ranulph de Broc. This they took; but failed before
the walls of Dunwich, and thence marched towards Leicester. Meantime
Lacy and Humphrey de Bohun had hurried back from the Scottish border,
were reinforced near Bury by the earls of Arundel, Cornwall, and
Gloucester, and in October came up with the Flemish army at Fornham St.
Geneviève. The invaders were routed, and Leicester and his countess taken
and sent prisoners to Normandy. Lacy’s work was, however, but half
completed. Mowbray still held Axholm, and Earl David, or probably for
him, Anketil Mallori, held Leicester Castle. The King of Scots laid siege to
Carlisle, while his brother took the castles of Knaresborough, Brough, and
Appleby. In May, 1174, Leicester Castle was still untaken, and the Scots
had reduced Warkworth and laid siege to Prudhoe and Alnwick. Lacy was
engaged in the siege of Huntingdon, aided by St. Liz, who claimed it. But a
second body of Flemings had landed, had attacked Norwich, and much
injured Nottingham and Northampton. The Bishop of Lincoln had,
however, taken Axholm.
Page 81
In the midst of this critical state of affairs, Henry landed at Southampton
in July, 1174, with his prisoners, whom he sent to Devizes. His arrival
coincided with a sudden and material improvement in the state of his
affairs. While Henry was engaged in an act of penance at Becket’s tomb,
William, King of Scots, was taken before Alnwick. After a short illness in
London, Henry went to Huntingdon in time to receive the surrender of the
castle, and thence to Framlingham, which, with Bungay, was surrendered to
him by Hugh Bigot. Prince Rhys, then in alliance with Henry, besieged and
took Tutbury, and the Mowbray castle of Malzeard was also taken. At
Northampton, in July, Henry received the submission of the Bishop of
Durham, with the castles of Durham, Norham, and Northallerton. Thirsk
Castle was given up by Roger de Mowbray; Tutbury and Driffield by Earl
Ferrars, with Leicester, Mount Sorrell, and Groby.
Henry’s success was complete; but the rebellion showed how dangerous
were the great castles to public order, and how necessary it was to dismantle
a large number of them, and to keep the rest, as far as possible, in the hands
of the Crown. This policy he continued to act upon to the end of his reign,
treating all conquered rebels with great clemency as regarded their persons
and their estates, but retaining their castles in his own hands. Even Richard
de Lacy, to whom the hundred of Ongar was granted in 1174, was not
allowed to retain the castle.
In May, 1175, Henry was in England, and in June received the surrender
of Bristol Castle from William, Earl of Gloucester. In January, 1176, was
held the council at Northampton, at which the kingdom was divided into six
circuits, with three justiciaries for each circuit. Among the edicts which they
were to enforce were those relating to castles. A strict inquisition was to be
made into the tenure by castle-guard, and how far its duties were
discharged.
It does not appear to what extent the new regulations were carried out;
but the general effect of the new system was to check marauders, and to
render insurrections more difficult and less frequent. Northallerton, more
than once dismantled, was at last (1177) entirely destroyed; and the Bishop
of Durham, its owner, had to pay a fine of a thousand marcs for his share in
the last rebellion. Such castles as Durham, Norham, and Scarborough,
which it was expedient to preserve, were attached to the Crown, and placed
in the hands of faithful castellans. Bamburgh was entrusted to William de
in July, 1174, with his prisoners, whom he sent to Devizes. His arrival
coincided with a sudden and material improvement in the state of his
affairs. While Henry was engaged in an act of penance at Becket’s tomb,
William, King of Scots, was taken before Alnwick. After a short illness in
London, Henry went to Huntingdon in time to receive the surrender of the
castle, and thence to Framlingham, which, with Bungay, was surrendered to
him by Hugh Bigot. Prince Rhys, then in alliance with Henry, besieged and
took Tutbury, and the Mowbray castle of Malzeard was also taken. At
Northampton, in July, Henry received the submission of the Bishop of
Durham, with the castles of Durham, Norham, and Northallerton. Thirsk
Castle was given up by Roger de Mowbray; Tutbury and Driffield by Earl
Ferrars, with Leicester, Mount Sorrell, and Groby.
Henry’s success was complete; but the rebellion showed how dangerous
were the great castles to public order, and how necessary it was to dismantle
a large number of them, and to keep the rest, as far as possible, in the hands
of the Crown. This policy he continued to act upon to the end of his reign,
treating all conquered rebels with great clemency as regarded their persons
and their estates, but retaining their castles in his own hands. Even Richard
de Lacy, to whom the hundred of Ongar was granted in 1174, was not
allowed to retain the castle.
In May, 1175, Henry was in England, and in June received the surrender
of Bristol Castle from William, Earl of Gloucester. In January, 1176, was
held the council at Northampton, at which the kingdom was divided into six
circuits, with three justiciaries for each circuit. Among the edicts which they
were to enforce were those relating to castles. A strict inquisition was to be
made into the tenure by castle-guard, and how far its duties were
discharged.
It does not appear to what extent the new regulations were carried out;
but the general effect of the new system was to check marauders, and to
render insurrections more difficult and less frequent. Northallerton, more
than once dismantled, was at last (1177) entirely destroyed; and the Bishop
of Durham, its owner, had to pay a fine of a thousand marcs for his share in
the last rebellion. Such castles as Durham, Norham, and Scarborough,
which it was expedient to preserve, were attached to the Crown, and placed
in the hands of faithful castellans. Bamburgh was entrusted to William de
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Stuteville, and Norham to William de Neville, Scarborough to the
Archbishop of York, Berwick to Geoffrey de Neville, and Durham to Roger
de Coniers. The assize of arms, by which, in 1180, it became the duty of
each freeholder to provide himself with arms and armour according to his
means and condition, rendered the commonalty more capable of resisting
tyranny, and on the whole tended to strengthen the hands of any not very
unpopular sovereign against the barons.
The general result of Henry’s domestic policy was undoubtedly
successful, and his latter years were untroubled by any serious outbreak. In
1177, he returned to Normandy; but both there, and during his subsequent
visits to England, he paid great attention to the castles of each country,
visiting many of them, appointing and changing the castellans, and causing
the defences to be kept in proper order. In February, 1187, he visited the
very singular castle of Chilham by Canterbury. He died in the castle of
Chinon, July, 1189.
Archbishop of York, Berwick to Geoffrey de Neville, and Durham to Roger
de Coniers. The assize of arms, by which, in 1180, it became the duty of
each freeholder to provide himself with arms and armour according to his
means and condition, rendered the commonalty more capable of resisting
tyranny, and on the whole tended to strengthen the hands of any not very
unpopular sovereign against the barons.
The general result of Henry’s domestic policy was undoubtedly
successful, and his latter years were untroubled by any serious outbreak. In
1177, he returned to Normandy; but both there, and during his subsequent
visits to England, he paid great attention to the castles of each country,
visiting many of them, appointing and changing the castellans, and causing
the defences to be kept in proper order. In February, 1187, he visited the
very singular castle of Chilham by Canterbury. He died in the castle of
Chinon, July, 1189.
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CHAPTER VI.
THE CASTLES OF ENGLAND AND WALES AT THE LATTER PART OF THE
TWELFTH CENTURY.
HOWEVER numerous may have been the castles destroyed under the
Convention of Wallingford, or during the subsequent reign of Henry II.,
they seem to have been almost entirely fortresses of recent date, in private
hands, and of little importance as regarded the general defence or the
orderly administration of the kingdom. Among those that played at all an
important part in the internal wars of the sons or grandsons of Henry, there
are missing but very few known to have been built or restored by his
predecessors or by himself; and the names that occur in the chronicles of
the period, or are entered from time to time in the records of the realm,
show that the country continued to be amply provided with castles, and that
almost all of the first class were occasionally repaired at the cost of the
Crown, and were governed by castellans holding office during the king’s
pleasure, whom moreover it was the custom frequently to change. It is here
proposed, at some length, to enumerate the fortresses of England and in the
Marches of Wales, as they stood at the close of the reign of Henry II., so far
at least as their names and positions or any account of them can be
recovered.
Taking London as the centre, military and political, of the kingdom, we
have, upon the Thames, the Tower, the first and chief fortress founded by
the Conqueror, and which he considered sufficient to protect and overawe
the city. In the city itself, also upon the banks of the Thames, near the outlet
of the Flete, was Baynard’s Castle, the stronghold of the Barons Fitz-
Walter, standard-bearers to the City of London, and an important branch of
the House of Clare. At various distances from this centre, according to the
disposition of the ground, were posted within the northern and southern
passes of the chalk ridge, Berkhampstead, an appanage of the earldom of
Cornwall, and Guildford, the early keep of which stands in part upon an
artificial mound. Also, to the immediate south of London, were the
episcopal castle, still inhabited, of Farnham, and Earl Warenne’s castle on
THE CASTLES OF ENGLAND AND WALES AT THE LATTER PART OF THE
TWELFTH CENTURY.
HOWEVER numerous may have been the castles destroyed under the
Convention of Wallingford, or during the subsequent reign of Henry II.,
they seem to have been almost entirely fortresses of recent date, in private
hands, and of little importance as regarded the general defence or the
orderly administration of the kingdom. Among those that played at all an
important part in the internal wars of the sons or grandsons of Henry, there
are missing but very few known to have been built or restored by his
predecessors or by himself; and the names that occur in the chronicles of
the period, or are entered from time to time in the records of the realm,
show that the country continued to be amply provided with castles, and that
almost all of the first class were occasionally repaired at the cost of the
Crown, and were governed by castellans holding office during the king’s
pleasure, whom moreover it was the custom frequently to change. It is here
proposed, at some length, to enumerate the fortresses of England and in the
Marches of Wales, as they stood at the close of the reign of Henry II., so far
at least as their names and positions or any account of them can be
recovered.
Taking London as the centre, military and political, of the kingdom, we
have, upon the Thames, the Tower, the first and chief fortress founded by
the Conqueror, and which he considered sufficient to protect and overawe
the city. In the city itself, also upon the banks of the Thames, near the outlet
of the Flete, was Baynard’s Castle, the stronghold of the Barons Fitz-
Walter, standard-bearers to the City of London, and an important branch of
the House of Clare. At various distances from this centre, according to the
disposition of the ground, were posted within the northern and southern
passes of the chalk ridge, Berkhampstead, an appanage of the earldom of
Cornwall, and Guildford, the early keep of which stands in part upon an
artificial mound. Also, to the immediate south of London, were the
episcopal castle, still inhabited, of Farnham, and Earl Warenne’s castle on
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the hill at Reigate, of which some traces remain. Higher up the Thames
were Windsor, Reading, Wallingford, and Oxford, all fortresses of high
antiquity and of the first rank. Between the Thames and the sea-coast the
country was well guarded, and the communications with Dover,
Portsmouth, and Southampton, so important to sovereigns with possessions
on the Continent, rendered secure. Dover, called by William the Conqueror,
according to Matthew Paris, “Clavis et repagulum,” the key and bolt of the
kingdom, was one of its oldest, largest, and strongest fortresses, and
covered a nearly impregnable area of thirty-five acres. It crowned the crest
of a chalk rock which seemed to rise out of the sea, and steep by nature was
rendered still more so by art, and bore traces of Norman, English, Roman,
and probably British occupation. Its well of water is particularly specified,
according to M. Paris, in Harold’s celebrated covenant with Duke William.
Indeed, there seem to have been two wells in the keep, besides another, no
doubt that of Harold, in the outer ward, probably a Roman work. The town
also was walled. In the rear of Dover lay the city of Canterbury, mentioned
in “Domesday” as fortified. It was strong to the landward, with a
formidable bank and ditch, revetted by a Norman wall, and towards the
water was covered by the marshes of the Stour, at one time navigable up to
the quays of the ancient city. At one angle and just within the area, was a
strong rectangular keep, a Norman addition, and near it was the Danejohn, a
far older moated mound, older even than the bank and ditch of the city,
which were laid out at an angle to include it. Near to Canterbury was
Chilham, a Norman tower of peculiar form, on the site of a work burned by
the Danes in 838–51; and at no great distance was Saltwood, given to the
see of Canterbury in 1036, and said to owe the formidable banks and
ditches which still surround it to a son of Hengist. West of Dover William
d’Abrincis had built the castle of Folkestone, now, with the cliff it stood
upon, swallowed up by the sea. It was preceded by an earlier work in earth
a little further inland; Sandwich, one of the cinque ports, was also
embanked and walled. Between Dover and London, upon the marshy
windings of the upper Medway, stood the mound of Tonbridge, with its
Norman walls and shell keep, a place of immense strength, and the subject
of a long contest between the archbishops and the earls of the race of De
Clare. Again, in the rear and upon the same road was the castle of Rochester
sharing its defensive strength with the oldest tower of the contiguous
cathedral and the walled city standing within or on the lines of a Roman
were Windsor, Reading, Wallingford, and Oxford, all fortresses of high
antiquity and of the first rank. Between the Thames and the sea-coast the
country was well guarded, and the communications with Dover,
Portsmouth, and Southampton, so important to sovereigns with possessions
on the Continent, rendered secure. Dover, called by William the Conqueror,
according to Matthew Paris, “Clavis et repagulum,” the key and bolt of the
kingdom, was one of its oldest, largest, and strongest fortresses, and
covered a nearly impregnable area of thirty-five acres. It crowned the crest
of a chalk rock which seemed to rise out of the sea, and steep by nature was
rendered still more so by art, and bore traces of Norman, English, Roman,
and probably British occupation. Its well of water is particularly specified,
according to M. Paris, in Harold’s celebrated covenant with Duke William.
Indeed, there seem to have been two wells in the keep, besides another, no
doubt that of Harold, in the outer ward, probably a Roman work. The town
also was walled. In the rear of Dover lay the city of Canterbury, mentioned
in “Domesday” as fortified. It was strong to the landward, with a
formidable bank and ditch, revetted by a Norman wall, and towards the
water was covered by the marshes of the Stour, at one time navigable up to
the quays of the ancient city. At one angle and just within the area, was a
strong rectangular keep, a Norman addition, and near it was the Danejohn, a
far older moated mound, older even than the bank and ditch of the city,
which were laid out at an angle to include it. Near to Canterbury was
Chilham, a Norman tower of peculiar form, on the site of a work burned by
the Danes in 838–51; and at no great distance was Saltwood, given to the
see of Canterbury in 1036, and said to owe the formidable banks and
ditches which still surround it to a son of Hengist. West of Dover William
d’Abrincis had built the castle of Folkestone, now, with the cliff it stood
upon, swallowed up by the sea. It was preceded by an earlier work in earth
a little further inland; Sandwich, one of the cinque ports, was also
embanked and walled. Between Dover and London, upon the marshy
windings of the upper Medway, stood the mound of Tonbridge, with its
Norman walls and shell keep, a place of immense strength, and the subject
of a long contest between the archbishops and the earls of the race of De
Clare. Again, in the rear and upon the same road was the castle of Rochester
sharing its defensive strength with the oldest tower of the contiguous
cathedral and the walled city standing within or on the lines of a Roman
Page 85
enclosure, and commanding the lowest bridge upon the deep and rapid
Medway. Many of the castles of Kent, especially those in private hands,
were founded in the thirteenth century, or later; but Horton, Eynsford, and
Lullingston, on the Darent, and that of Sheppy, on the Swale, are far more
ancient. Besides these Otford, an archiepiscopal castle, was the “caput” of
an Honour. Cowling is mentioned in Mercian charters in 808. The manor
belonged to Leofwin, brother of Harold, and was held by Bishop Odo.
Allington Castle was demolished by the Danes and afterwards held by Earl
Godwin, and later on by Odo. The Norman additions were probably the
work of Earl Warenne. Near to Maidstone is Malling, thought to be as early
a Norman keep as any in England, and tolerably perfect though small;
Thurnam or Godard’s Castle also has a square Norman keep and some early
earthworks, and near to it were the very perfect moated mounds of Binbury
and Stockbury. Ledes Castle, still inhabited, has a detached and water-
girdled keep and a very complete barbican. The keep of Sutton, afterwards
Sutton-Valence, seems to be Norman. Tong Castle, in Bapchild manor on
the Swale, attributed to Hengist, was built as a castle by the St. Johns.
Bayford Castle occurs in Sittingbourne; and Queenborough, in Sheppey,
though called from the queen of Edward III., is probably of much older
date. At Alfrington Alfred is said to have had a strong place, called
afterwards Burlow. At Verdley, and Castlefield in Hartfield, are vestiges
said to represent castles.
In Sussex each rape had its castle, founded probably by the Jutish
settlers. Of these under the Norman rule Hastings, almost equal to Dover in
its natural strength, though of smaller size, was the head of the barony of
the earls of Eu. It is first mentioned in the Bayeux tapestry, where in one of
the compartments is written, “Iste [comes Moretaine] jussit ut foderentur
castellum ad Hasteng.” This probably relates to the double line of ditches
by which the castle is cut off from the body of the hill. The town also was
walled. Pevensey, strong in its Roman wall and added English earthworks,
was the castle of De Aquila, the seat of the Honour called by the English of
“The Eagle.” Here, in 1118, the Custos of Windsor expended £118. 4s. in
repairing the palisades (“palicii”) of the castle. Lewes, with its mounds
crowning each end of an isolated hill, was the favourite strength of the
Warennes, Earls of Surrey. The natural platform, added ditches and mound,
and square keep of Bramber, on the Adur, rendered almost impregnable this
seat of the turbulent and powerful Barons Braose of Gower, who also
Medway. Many of the castles of Kent, especially those in private hands,
were founded in the thirteenth century, or later; but Horton, Eynsford, and
Lullingston, on the Darent, and that of Sheppy, on the Swale, are far more
ancient. Besides these Otford, an archiepiscopal castle, was the “caput” of
an Honour. Cowling is mentioned in Mercian charters in 808. The manor
belonged to Leofwin, brother of Harold, and was held by Bishop Odo.
Allington Castle was demolished by the Danes and afterwards held by Earl
Godwin, and later on by Odo. The Norman additions were probably the
work of Earl Warenne. Near to Maidstone is Malling, thought to be as early
a Norman keep as any in England, and tolerably perfect though small;
Thurnam or Godard’s Castle also has a square Norman keep and some early
earthworks, and near to it were the very perfect moated mounds of Binbury
and Stockbury. Ledes Castle, still inhabited, has a detached and water-
girdled keep and a very complete barbican. The keep of Sutton, afterwards
Sutton-Valence, seems to be Norman. Tong Castle, in Bapchild manor on
the Swale, attributed to Hengist, was built as a castle by the St. Johns.
Bayford Castle occurs in Sittingbourne; and Queenborough, in Sheppey,
though called from the queen of Edward III., is probably of much older
date. At Alfrington Alfred is said to have had a strong place, called
afterwards Burlow. At Verdley, and Castlefield in Hartfield, are vestiges
said to represent castles.
In Sussex each rape had its castle, founded probably by the Jutish
settlers. Of these under the Norman rule Hastings, almost equal to Dover in
its natural strength, though of smaller size, was the head of the barony of
the earls of Eu. It is first mentioned in the Bayeux tapestry, where in one of
the compartments is written, “Iste [comes Moretaine] jussit ut foderentur
castellum ad Hasteng.” This probably relates to the double line of ditches
by which the castle is cut off from the body of the hill. The town also was
walled. Pevensey, strong in its Roman wall and added English earthworks,
was the castle of De Aquila, the seat of the Honour called by the English of
“The Eagle.” Here, in 1118, the Custos of Windsor expended £118. 4s. in
repairing the palisades (“palicii”) of the castle. Lewes, with its mounds
crowning each end of an isolated hill, was the favourite strength of the
Warennes, Earls of Surrey. The natural platform, added ditches and mound,
and square keep of Bramber, on the Adur, rendered almost impregnable this
seat of the turbulent and powerful Barons Braose of Gower, who also
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owned Knepp Castle, nearer the head of the river, where a mound and some
Norman masonry may still be seen. Knepp was afterwards held by King
John on the attainder of William de Braose, and in 1216 was ordered to be
destroyed. Arundel, the only castle named in “Domesday” as existing in the
reign of the Confessor, and the seat successively of Earl Roger of
Montgomery, of d’Albini, and the race of Fitz-Alan, still overlooks the dell
of the Arun, and wears many of its older features; and finally Chichester,
also a Montgomery castle, long since destroyed, or reduced to its primal
mound, stood within the fortified area of the Roman Regnum. Besides these
there seem to have been Norman castles at Eastbourne and Firle, all traces
of which have, however, disappeared. Mention is also made of Sedgewick
Castle, near Horsham.
More to the west in Hampshire, upon the Havant water, was Boseham, a
very famous castle long since swept away; and upon the inlet of
Portsmouth, Porchester, a noble combination of Roman and Norman
masonry. Within its area is contained a parish church and churchyard, and
here was the favourite muster-place for troops destined for Havre. On the
opposite side of the Solent, in the centre of the Isle of Wight, is Carisbroke,
celebrated for its keep and mound, and its wells of unusual depth, and on
the opposite mainland, at the marshy junction of the Stour and the Wiltshire
Avon, stands the ancient keep of Christchurch, placed exceptionally upon
the mound of the earlier Twynham. Here also is preserved the Castle Hall, a
late Norman building, almost a duplicate of a corresponding structure in
Fitzgerald’s castle at Adare, near Limerick. Upon the verge of Southampton
Water, between the Anton and the sea, occupying a strong peninsula, is the
town of that name, still preserving the remains of its Norman walls, and of
the keep of a very formidable castle once included within its area.
Inland of this line of castles from the sea northwards to the Thames, the
counties of Wilts and Berks showed with Hampshire an abundance of
strong places. There, though actually in Hampshire, was Winchester, the
British Caerwent and the Roman Venta Belgarum, which in its English days
contested with London the supremacy of the South. Strongly fortified with
broad and high earthworks and deep ditches, it contained, attached to one
angle, the royal castle, and within another, its diagonal, the episcopal keep
of Wolvesey, of which the one is now represented by its noble hall, and the
other by its rectangular Norman keep. The Hall at Winchester, though of
Norman masonry may still be seen. Knepp was afterwards held by King
John on the attainder of William de Braose, and in 1216 was ordered to be
destroyed. Arundel, the only castle named in “Domesday” as existing in the
reign of the Confessor, and the seat successively of Earl Roger of
Montgomery, of d’Albini, and the race of Fitz-Alan, still overlooks the dell
of the Arun, and wears many of its older features; and finally Chichester,
also a Montgomery castle, long since destroyed, or reduced to its primal
mound, stood within the fortified area of the Roman Regnum. Besides these
there seem to have been Norman castles at Eastbourne and Firle, all traces
of which have, however, disappeared. Mention is also made of Sedgewick
Castle, near Horsham.
More to the west in Hampshire, upon the Havant water, was Boseham, a
very famous castle long since swept away; and upon the inlet of
Portsmouth, Porchester, a noble combination of Roman and Norman
masonry. Within its area is contained a parish church and churchyard, and
here was the favourite muster-place for troops destined for Havre. On the
opposite side of the Solent, in the centre of the Isle of Wight, is Carisbroke,
celebrated for its keep and mound, and its wells of unusual depth, and on
the opposite mainland, at the marshy junction of the Stour and the Wiltshire
Avon, stands the ancient keep of Christchurch, placed exceptionally upon
the mound of the earlier Twynham. Here also is preserved the Castle Hall, a
late Norman building, almost a duplicate of a corresponding structure in
Fitzgerald’s castle at Adare, near Limerick. Upon the verge of Southampton
Water, between the Anton and the sea, occupying a strong peninsula, is the
town of that name, still preserving the remains of its Norman walls, and of
the keep of a very formidable castle once included within its area.
Inland of this line of castles from the sea northwards to the Thames, the
counties of Wilts and Berks showed with Hampshire an abundance of
strong places. There, though actually in Hampshire, was Winchester, the
British Caerwent and the Roman Venta Belgarum, which in its English days
contested with London the supremacy of the South. Strongly fortified with
broad and high earthworks and deep ditches, it contained, attached to one
angle, the royal castle, and within another, its diagonal, the episcopal keep
of Wolvesey, of which the one is now represented by its noble hall, and the
other by its rectangular Norman keep. The Hall at Winchester, though of
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very early English date, is after the Norman type, having three aisles. The
castle was the prison of Archbishop Stigand in 1066. Before its gates, in
1075, Earl Waltheof was beheaded. Here, in 1102, was tried the memorable
dispute for precedence between York and Canterbury. In 1141 it was
defended by the Empress Maud, and here Henry II. held several
Parliaments, and Cœur de Lion paused when in the adjacent cathedral he
was a second time crowned on his return from captivity in 1189.
Scarcely second to Winchester in strength, and its equal in undefined
antiquity, is Old Sarum, a hold of mixed but uncertain origin, where the
concentric lines of masonry, girdling and crowning the central mound,
included the cathedral of the diocese, and to which, according to the
historians of Wiltshire, King Alfred caused an exterior bank and palisade to
be added. In Wilts was also the Devizes, reputed the finest castle on this
side the Alps. “Divisæ quod erat Salesberiensis Episcopi castellum, mirando
artificio, sed et munimine inexpugnabili firmatum,” but of which there now
remains little besides the gigantic mound and profound ditches. Of
Marlborough the burh alone remains, while of Malmesbury, an
encroachment of the secular upon the lands of the regular clergy, all traces
are removed. Over the Hampshire border is Old Basing, where the Saxons
were worsted by the Danes in a pitched battle in 871, which became the
“caput” of the fifty-five lordships held by Hugh de Port in “Domesday,” and
afterwards of the St. John’s oldest barony. Even in the time of Henry II. it
was called the old castle, and in a rather later reign Robert, Lord St. John,
had a licence to fix a pale along the base of his mote at Basing, and to
maintain it so fortified during the king’s pleasure. The original circle of
earthwork is nearly all that now remains. At no great distance is Odiham,
once a possession of the see of Winchester, where is an early tower, stripped
of its ashlar, and surrounded by marshy ground once famous for its forest
sport. Castle Coombe was a famous and very early Wiltshire castle, now
reduced nearly to an earthwork, and Warblington, a stronghold of the
Montacutes, and the castle of Cirencester are both gone, the latter destroyed
by Henry III.
Still further to the west are the castles of Dorset and Somerset, Devon
and Cornwall. Wareham, the ancient Frome-mouth, placed between the
Frome and the Piddle, once marked the limits of Poole harbour, and was a
place of great strength and fame. As early as 876 its west side, the root of
castle was the prison of Archbishop Stigand in 1066. Before its gates, in
1075, Earl Waltheof was beheaded. Here, in 1102, was tried the memorable
dispute for precedence between York and Canterbury. In 1141 it was
defended by the Empress Maud, and here Henry II. held several
Parliaments, and Cœur de Lion paused when in the adjacent cathedral he
was a second time crowned on his return from captivity in 1189.
Scarcely second to Winchester in strength, and its equal in undefined
antiquity, is Old Sarum, a hold of mixed but uncertain origin, where the
concentric lines of masonry, girdling and crowning the central mound,
included the cathedral of the diocese, and to which, according to the
historians of Wiltshire, King Alfred caused an exterior bank and palisade to
be added. In Wilts was also the Devizes, reputed the finest castle on this
side the Alps. “Divisæ quod erat Salesberiensis Episcopi castellum, mirando
artificio, sed et munimine inexpugnabili firmatum,” but of which there now
remains little besides the gigantic mound and profound ditches. Of
Marlborough the burh alone remains, while of Malmesbury, an
encroachment of the secular upon the lands of the regular clergy, all traces
are removed. Over the Hampshire border is Old Basing, where the Saxons
were worsted by the Danes in a pitched battle in 871, which became the
“caput” of the fifty-five lordships held by Hugh de Port in “Domesday,” and
afterwards of the St. John’s oldest barony. Even in the time of Henry II. it
was called the old castle, and in a rather later reign Robert, Lord St. John,
had a licence to fix a pale along the base of his mote at Basing, and to
maintain it so fortified during the king’s pleasure. The original circle of
earthwork is nearly all that now remains. At no great distance is Odiham,
once a possession of the see of Winchester, where is an early tower, stripped
of its ashlar, and surrounded by marshy ground once famous for its forest
sport. Castle Coombe was a famous and very early Wiltshire castle, now
reduced nearly to an earthwork, and Warblington, a stronghold of the
Montacutes, and the castle of Cirencester are both gone, the latter destroyed
by Henry III.
Still further to the west are the castles of Dorset and Somerset, Devon
and Cornwall. Wareham, the ancient Frome-mouth, placed between the
Frome and the Piddle, once marked the limits of Poole harbour, and was a
place of great strength and fame. As early as 876 its west side, the root of
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the twixt-waters peninsula, was criticised as weak. In one corner of its
rectangular and pseudo-Roman area, a moated mound has been thrown up,
as at Tamworth, by the river-side, and its earthworks and position justify its
reputation as the key of Purbeck, of which Corfe was the citadel. Corfe,
perched upon the summit and slope of a chalk hill between two clefts
whence it derives its name, is now a magnificent ruin. Half its noble
rectangular keep still stands, and incorporated into the wall of its middle
ward is a fragment of the palace of the old West Saxon kings, probably the
only material evidence extant that they ever employed masonry in their
military works. Of Sherborne, an ancient episcopal seat, the spacious
earthwork still contains much of a late Norman keep, and is still entered
through a Norman gatehouse. Ilchester and Shaftesbury Castles are gone,
and only a part of the earthworks of that of Dorchester remain. West of
Purbeck, in Portland, is Bow-and-Arrow Castle, upon the sea-cliff, a
curious and somewhat peculiar structure of early date, built or occupied by
the De Clares. From Portland to the mouth of the Exe there do not appear to
have been any strong places of importance.
Just within the mouth of the Exe is Powderham, the work of an Earl of
Eu and of De Redvers, and their Courtenay successors, and higher up and
opposite, Rougemont, the citadel of Exeter, which still exhibits the high
banks, deep ditches, and ancient gatehouse, fragments of the defences
behind which the citizens braved the fury of the Conqueror. Inland from the
Exe is Okehampton, the earliest of the English possessions of the great
family of Courtenay, and the work of Baldwin of Exeter, of the lineage but
not bearing the name of De Clare. He was the builder also of Tiverton
Castle which is now destroyed, as also is Bridgewater. Among the early
castles of the district was Stoke Courcy, now a ruin; Stowey, “pulchrum et
inexpugnabile in pelagi littore locatum”; and Dunster, the strongest place in
the west, the “Domesday” castle of the Mohuns, and after them, as now, of
the Luttrells. In the west of Devon there remains the mound of Plympton, a
Redvers castle, and the shell keep of Totnes, the work of Joel of that place,
and afterwards inherited by the Barons Braose. Barnstaple town was
probably walled, and certainly had four gates. At Taunton a Norman keep
and part of a Norman hall still stand on the banks of the Tone, and rise out
of earthworks attributed to King Ine. At Montacute, the high ground marked
by an immense Romano-British camp, ends in the sharp-pointed hill which
William Earl of Moretaine selected for his castle, of which the name,
rectangular and pseudo-Roman area, a moated mound has been thrown up,
as at Tamworth, by the river-side, and its earthworks and position justify its
reputation as the key of Purbeck, of which Corfe was the citadel. Corfe,
perched upon the summit and slope of a chalk hill between two clefts
whence it derives its name, is now a magnificent ruin. Half its noble
rectangular keep still stands, and incorporated into the wall of its middle
ward is a fragment of the palace of the old West Saxon kings, probably the
only material evidence extant that they ever employed masonry in their
military works. Of Sherborne, an ancient episcopal seat, the spacious
earthwork still contains much of a late Norman keep, and is still entered
through a Norman gatehouse. Ilchester and Shaftesbury Castles are gone,
and only a part of the earthworks of that of Dorchester remain. West of
Purbeck, in Portland, is Bow-and-Arrow Castle, upon the sea-cliff, a
curious and somewhat peculiar structure of early date, built or occupied by
the De Clares. From Portland to the mouth of the Exe there do not appear to
have been any strong places of importance.
Just within the mouth of the Exe is Powderham, the work of an Earl of
Eu and of De Redvers, and their Courtenay successors, and higher up and
opposite, Rougemont, the citadel of Exeter, which still exhibits the high
banks, deep ditches, and ancient gatehouse, fragments of the defences
behind which the citizens braved the fury of the Conqueror. Inland from the
Exe is Okehampton, the earliest of the English possessions of the great
family of Courtenay, and the work of Baldwin of Exeter, of the lineage but
not bearing the name of De Clare. He was the builder also of Tiverton
Castle which is now destroyed, as also is Bridgewater. Among the early
castles of the district was Stoke Courcy, now a ruin; Stowey, “pulchrum et
inexpugnabile in pelagi littore locatum”; and Dunster, the strongest place in
the west, the “Domesday” castle of the Mohuns, and after them, as now, of
the Luttrells. In the west of Devon there remains the mound of Plympton, a
Redvers castle, and the shell keep of Totnes, the work of Joel of that place,
and afterwards inherited by the Barons Braose. Barnstaple town was
probably walled, and certainly had four gates. At Taunton a Norman keep
and part of a Norman hall still stand on the banks of the Tone, and rise out
of earthworks attributed to King Ine. At Montacute, the high ground marked
by an immense Romano-British camp, ends in the sharp-pointed hill which
William Earl of Moretaine selected for his castle, of which the name,
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appropriately transported from his Norman castle, alone remains, and but
little more of Castle-Carey, the Lovell seat, besieged and taken by Stephen,
or of the Norman keep of Harptree, in a pass in the Mendip range.
Of importance beyond all these more or less local castles was that of
Bristol, founded by Robert, Earl of Gloucester, but found too valuable to be
intrusted to his successors in the earldom. Its square Norman keep stood
between the Frome and the Avon, and was strong both in works and in
position. After centuries of contest for its possession between the earls of
Gloucester and the Crown, it ceased to be of military value and was taken
down. Upon and beyond the Tamar, as at Montacute, Wallingford, and
Berkhampstead, may be traced the footsteps of the powerful noble who held
the great earldom of Cornwall. Their principal Cornish castles,—Trematon,
Launceston, where the town also was walled, and Restormel,—were the
work originally of Robert, half-brother of the Conqueror. Their remains are
considerable, and their strength and position were such as to give them
immense influence in that wild and almost impenetrable district. St.
Michael’s Mount remains strongly fortified; Carnbrea, the work of Ralph de
Pomeroy, still marks the rocky ridge whence it derives its name, and there
are traces of Boscastle, the hold of the Barons Botreaux, and of the
Arthurian castle of Tintagel. There are besides in Cornwall a few fortified
houses, and a multitude of strong places,—camps rather than castles, very
peculiar in character, and probably the work of the native Cornish before
the arrival of the stranger.
It appears, then, that south of and upon the Thames and Bristol Avon
there stood, at the close of the twelfth century, at least eighty-nine more or
less considerable castles, a very large number of which were kept in repair
by the sheriffs of the counties and governed by castellans appointed by the
king and holding office during pleasure. Of these, at least thirty contained
shell keeps placed on moated mounds, and were in some form or other far
older than the Conquest; and about seventeen were characterised by
rectangular keeps, of which two only, Guildford and Christchurch, were
associated with mounds, and of these very few indeed were of pure Norman
foundation. Of the remaining forty-two the particulars are doubtful, so they
cannot be counted with one class or the other, but most of them are also
older than the Conquest.
little more of Castle-Carey, the Lovell seat, besieged and taken by Stephen,
or of the Norman keep of Harptree, in a pass in the Mendip range.
Of importance beyond all these more or less local castles was that of
Bristol, founded by Robert, Earl of Gloucester, but found too valuable to be
intrusted to his successors in the earldom. Its square Norman keep stood
between the Frome and the Avon, and was strong both in works and in
position. After centuries of contest for its possession between the earls of
Gloucester and the Crown, it ceased to be of military value and was taken
down. Upon and beyond the Tamar, as at Montacute, Wallingford, and
Berkhampstead, may be traced the footsteps of the powerful noble who held
the great earldom of Cornwall. Their principal Cornish castles,—Trematon,
Launceston, where the town also was walled, and Restormel,—were the
work originally of Robert, half-brother of the Conqueror. Their remains are
considerable, and their strength and position were such as to give them
immense influence in that wild and almost impenetrable district. St.
Michael’s Mount remains strongly fortified; Carnbrea, the work of Ralph de
Pomeroy, still marks the rocky ridge whence it derives its name, and there
are traces of Boscastle, the hold of the Barons Botreaux, and of the
Arthurian castle of Tintagel. There are besides in Cornwall a few fortified
houses, and a multitude of strong places,—camps rather than castles, very
peculiar in character, and probably the work of the native Cornish before
the arrival of the stranger.
It appears, then, that south of and upon the Thames and Bristol Avon
there stood, at the close of the twelfth century, at least eighty-nine more or
less considerable castles, a very large number of which were kept in repair
by the sheriffs of the counties and governed by castellans appointed by the
king and holding office during pleasure. Of these, at least thirty contained
shell keeps placed on moated mounds, and were in some form or other far
older than the Conquest; and about seventeen were characterised by
rectangular keeps, of which two only, Guildford and Christchurch, were
associated with mounds, and of these very few indeed were of pure Norman
foundation. Of the remaining forty-two the particulars are doubtful, so they
cannot be counted with one class or the other, but most of them are also
older than the Conquest.
Page 90
Passing into the middle belt of country extending from the Thames and
Avon to the Tees and the Lune, and from the German Ocean to the Severn,
the provision for defence is found to be fully equal to that in the South. In
the East Anglian province, in the counties of Essex, Suffolk, Norfolk, and
Cambridge, the chief strongholds were Colchester, Hedingham, Bungay,
Framlingham, Castle Acre, Castle Rising, Norwich, and Cambridge.
Colchester, the work of Hubert de Rye or his son, acting in some measure
for the Crown, is built of Roman, or quasi-Roman, material upon a Roman
site and within the area of a town mentioned in “Domesday” as fortified. It
commanded the inlet of Harwich and the Blackwater, and in its rear, higher
up the Coln, was the De Vere keep of Hedingham, still a very perfect
structure, and unusually though severely ornate. This keep stands upon a
natural mound, protected by a formidable ditch, and appended to it is an
outer enclosure, older evidently than the keep. In the same county is
Rayleigh, celebrated for the extent of its earthworks, and, with Clavering,
attributed to Swegen or Suenus, sheriff of Essex under the Confessor, and
ancestor of Henry de Essex, Henry I.’s disgraced standard-bearer. The
earthworks of both places are, however, probably much earlier than the
masonry. There also is Plessy, a Mandeville restoration in masonry, with the
parish church within its enclosure; Ongar, for the time the castle of Richard
de Lucy; and Stansted Montfichet, the remaining earthworks of which
indicate its site. Bishops Stortford, or Weytemore, was an early manor of
the Bishop of London, who there had a castle. These four last-named castles
all had moated mounds. At Bures also was a moated mound eighty feet
high, hence its name of Mount Bures; also at Birch Castle, near Colchester,
and at Benyngton were castles. Canewdon was either a castle or a very old
fortified house, dating from the time of Henry de Essex, and at Canfield,
called from its castle, “Canefield ad Castrum,” the De Veres had a fortress
of which the mound is still seen.
Framlingham is the chief castle of Suffolk. It is attributed originally to
Redwald, king of East Anglia, at the close of the sixth century. Here there is
at present no keep, but the Norman walls, of unusual height, forty to fifty
feet, and eight feet thick, still enclose the court, and are protected by
enormous earthworks, deep and high and of great extent. This was the chief
of the Bigot castles, said to have been built by Hugh Bigot in 1176, and to
the same powerful family belonged Bungay, “hard by the river Waveney,”
with grand earthworks, a mound, and the remains of a square keep. Walton,
Avon to the Tees and the Lune, and from the German Ocean to the Severn,
the provision for defence is found to be fully equal to that in the South. In
the East Anglian province, in the counties of Essex, Suffolk, Norfolk, and
Cambridge, the chief strongholds were Colchester, Hedingham, Bungay,
Framlingham, Castle Acre, Castle Rising, Norwich, and Cambridge.
Colchester, the work of Hubert de Rye or his son, acting in some measure
for the Crown, is built of Roman, or quasi-Roman, material upon a Roman
site and within the area of a town mentioned in “Domesday” as fortified. It
commanded the inlet of Harwich and the Blackwater, and in its rear, higher
up the Coln, was the De Vere keep of Hedingham, still a very perfect
structure, and unusually though severely ornate. This keep stands upon a
natural mound, protected by a formidable ditch, and appended to it is an
outer enclosure, older evidently than the keep. In the same county is
Rayleigh, celebrated for the extent of its earthworks, and, with Clavering,
attributed to Swegen or Suenus, sheriff of Essex under the Confessor, and
ancestor of Henry de Essex, Henry I.’s disgraced standard-bearer. The
earthworks of both places are, however, probably much earlier than the
masonry. There also is Plessy, a Mandeville restoration in masonry, with the
parish church within its enclosure; Ongar, for the time the castle of Richard
de Lucy; and Stansted Montfichet, the remaining earthworks of which
indicate its site. Bishops Stortford, or Weytemore, was an early manor of
the Bishop of London, who there had a castle. These four last-named castles
all had moated mounds. At Bures also was a moated mound eighty feet
high, hence its name of Mount Bures; also at Birch Castle, near Colchester,
and at Benyngton were castles. Canewdon was either a castle or a very old
fortified house, dating from the time of Henry de Essex, and at Canfield,
called from its castle, “Canefield ad Castrum,” the De Veres had a fortress
of which the mound is still seen.
Framlingham is the chief castle of Suffolk. It is attributed originally to
Redwald, king of East Anglia, at the close of the sixth century. Here there is
at present no keep, but the Norman walls, of unusual height, forty to fifty
feet, and eight feet thick, still enclose the court, and are protected by
enormous earthworks, deep and high and of great extent. This was the chief
of the Bigot castles, said to have been built by Hugh Bigot in 1176, and to
the same powerful family belonged Bungay, “hard by the river Waveney,”
with grand earthworks, a mound, and the remains of a square keep. Walton,
Page 91
another Bigot castle, was destroyed by Henry II. Clare, the manor whence
the earls of Gloucester and Hertford derived their family name, retains its
mound with part of a polygonal keep, and outworks in earth and masonry
on a scale commensurate with the power of their lords. The area is occupied
in part by a railway station. Eye, the mound of which remains, was a castle
at Domesday, the seat of Robert Malet, and afterwards was given by Henry
II. to Ranulph, Earl of Chester. Dunwich, though not a walled town, was
protected by a deep ditch and high bank, upon which as late as the reign of
Henry III. was a palisade.
The chief castle of Norfolk was Norwich, a place of immense strength
and high antiquity. Its rectangular keep of great size and more ornate than
usual, though much injured by injudicious repairs, and closed against the
antiquary by its conversion to the base uses of a prison, still predominates
grandly over the fine old city, of which it was long the glory and the dread.
Its deep, single ditch, far older than its works in masonry, is now for the
most part filled up and built over. The city also was strongly walled.
Haganet, a Norfolk castle taken by the Earl of Leicester and his invading
Flemings, is utterly destroyed. Mileham, of which the moated mound,
though low, and a fragment of a square keep remain, was the work of Alan,
son of Flaald, who held the manor from the Conqueror. To him also is
attributed the adjacent castle of Burghwood, of which large earthworks
remain. Orford, an almost solitary example of a Norman polygonal keep, is
tolerably perfect. The keep of Castle Rising, though smaller in dimensions
than Norwich, resembles it in type. It is the most highly-ornamented keep in
England, and, though a ruin, is well preserved and cared for. Here also is
that great rarity, a tolerably perfect and unaltered fore-building and
entrance. This keep stands within a lofty bank, beyond which, on one side,
is a spacious outwork, also heavily embanked. Castle Acre, best known for
its Norman priory, contains also the mound and other earthworks and part
of the shell keep of a large castle, and near to these is the town of Lynn,
once strongly fortified, and still possessing an early gatehouse. At Thetford,
girt by a double ditch, is the great mound thrown up by the Danes in 865–6
to command the then adjacent city, but this post, so important before the
Conquest, does not seem to have been occupied afterwards. Other Norfolk
castles were Buckenham and Tateshall, of which the date is doubtful, and
Marnham, of which it was reported in the reign of Edward I.—“Quod
erectio castri de Marnham est in præjudicium domini Regis.” Wirmegay, a
the earls of Gloucester and Hertford derived their family name, retains its
mound with part of a polygonal keep, and outworks in earth and masonry
on a scale commensurate with the power of their lords. The area is occupied
in part by a railway station. Eye, the mound of which remains, was a castle
at Domesday, the seat of Robert Malet, and afterwards was given by Henry
II. to Ranulph, Earl of Chester. Dunwich, though not a walled town, was
protected by a deep ditch and high bank, upon which as late as the reign of
Henry III. was a palisade.
The chief castle of Norfolk was Norwich, a place of immense strength
and high antiquity. Its rectangular keep of great size and more ornate than
usual, though much injured by injudicious repairs, and closed against the
antiquary by its conversion to the base uses of a prison, still predominates
grandly over the fine old city, of which it was long the glory and the dread.
Its deep, single ditch, far older than its works in masonry, is now for the
most part filled up and built over. The city also was strongly walled.
Haganet, a Norfolk castle taken by the Earl of Leicester and his invading
Flemings, is utterly destroyed. Mileham, of which the moated mound,
though low, and a fragment of a square keep remain, was the work of Alan,
son of Flaald, who held the manor from the Conqueror. To him also is
attributed the adjacent castle of Burghwood, of which large earthworks
remain. Orford, an almost solitary example of a Norman polygonal keep, is
tolerably perfect. The keep of Castle Rising, though smaller in dimensions
than Norwich, resembles it in type. It is the most highly-ornamented keep in
England, and, though a ruin, is well preserved and cared for. Here also is
that great rarity, a tolerably perfect and unaltered fore-building and
entrance. This keep stands within a lofty bank, beyond which, on one side,
is a spacious outwork, also heavily embanked. Castle Acre, best known for
its Norman priory, contains also the mound and other earthworks and part
of the shell keep of a large castle, and near to these is the town of Lynn,
once strongly fortified, and still possessing an early gatehouse. At Thetford,
girt by a double ditch, is the great mound thrown up by the Danes in 865–6
to command the then adjacent city, but this post, so important before the
Conquest, does not seem to have been occupied afterwards. Other Norfolk
castles were Buckenham and Tateshall, of which the date is doubtful, and
Marnham, of which it was reported in the reign of Edward I.—“Quod
erectio castri de Marnham est in præjudicium domini Regis.” Wirmegay, a
Page 92
Warenne castle, strong in its marshy approaches, was certainly earlier. At
Weting, near the church, was a castle with a mound, on which a few years
ago was a fragment of the keep. It was the seat of De Plaiz, who represented
Mont Fitchet, and whose heiress married the ancestor of the house of
Howard. There was also a castle at Kenningdale, near Diss.
Cambridgeshire contained but a few castles, the fens presenting little to
attract the spoiler, and being in themselves a secure defence. At Cambridge,
upon the banks of the sluggish and winding Cam, a prison has taken the
place of the castle ordered by the Conqueror; but a part of the mound and a
fragment of its subsidiary banks remain, and are not to be confounded with
the still earlier Roman enclosure. At Ely a large mound with appended earth
banks is thought to have been the site of the ancient castle of the bishop of
that see. All traces of masonry are gone, as at Wisbeach. The camp at Castle
Camps, the seat of the Saxon Wolfwin, once held a Norman castle, the work
of the De Veres. Of Chevely, an episcopal castle, a fragment remains.
Burwell, the masonry of which belonged to one of Stephen’s improvised
castles, is remembered as that before which Geoffrey de Mandeville
received his fatal wound. A fragment of its wall and the mound remain.
Swavesey and Bassingbourne were early castles.
Hertford, Bedford, and Buckingham, the inland positions of which were
insufficient to secure them from invasions from a foe beyond the sea, were
not unprovided with castles. Hertford, visited by the Danes in 894, was
fortified by Edward the Elder in 914, who there threw up a burh between
the rivers Lea, Mineran, and Bean, and in the year following a second burh
on the opposite bank of the Lea. Hertford, says Smith in 1588, has two
castles, one on each bank of the Lea. These corresponded to the two banks
already mentioned. Upon the still existing mound Peter de Valoines placed
the keep ordered by the Conqueror. The Magnavilles next held it, and Henry
of Huntingdon calls it, “castrum non immensum sed pulcherrimum.”
Berkhampstead, as old, and a far more considerable fortress, and the head
of a great Honour, has been mentioned as one of the northern defences of
the metropolis. Its mound, wholly artificial, still supports the foundations of
a Norman shell keep, and appended to it is a large oval platform, the walls
and entrances to which remain. The whole is partially encircled by several
concentric lines of bank and ditch, the character of which shows that they
Weting, near the church, was a castle with a mound, on which a few years
ago was a fragment of the keep. It was the seat of De Plaiz, who represented
Mont Fitchet, and whose heiress married the ancestor of the house of
Howard. There was also a castle at Kenningdale, near Diss.
Cambridgeshire contained but a few castles, the fens presenting little to
attract the spoiler, and being in themselves a secure defence. At Cambridge,
upon the banks of the sluggish and winding Cam, a prison has taken the
place of the castle ordered by the Conqueror; but a part of the mound and a
fragment of its subsidiary banks remain, and are not to be confounded with
the still earlier Roman enclosure. At Ely a large mound with appended earth
banks is thought to have been the site of the ancient castle of the bishop of
that see. All traces of masonry are gone, as at Wisbeach. The camp at Castle
Camps, the seat of the Saxon Wolfwin, once held a Norman castle, the work
of the De Veres. Of Chevely, an episcopal castle, a fragment remains.
Burwell, the masonry of which belonged to one of Stephen’s improvised
castles, is remembered as that before which Geoffrey de Mandeville
received his fatal wound. A fragment of its wall and the mound remain.
Swavesey and Bassingbourne were early castles.
Hertford, Bedford, and Buckingham, the inland positions of which were
insufficient to secure them from invasions from a foe beyond the sea, were
not unprovided with castles. Hertford, visited by the Danes in 894, was
fortified by Edward the Elder in 914, who there threw up a burh between
the rivers Lea, Mineran, and Bean, and in the year following a second burh
on the opposite bank of the Lea. Hertford, says Smith in 1588, has two
castles, one on each bank of the Lea. These corresponded to the two banks
already mentioned. Upon the still existing mound Peter de Valoines placed
the keep ordered by the Conqueror. The Magnavilles next held it, and Henry
of Huntingdon calls it, “castrum non immensum sed pulcherrimum.”
Berkhampstead, as old, and a far more considerable fortress, and the head
of a great Honour, has been mentioned as one of the northern defences of
the metropolis. Its mound, wholly artificial, still supports the foundations of
a Norman shell keep, and appended to it is a large oval platform, the walls
and entrances to which remain. The whole is partially encircled by several
concentric lines of bank and ditch, the character of which shows that they
Page 93
were protected by stockades instead of walls of masonry. Here the Black
Prince spent his latter days, and here he died.
The chief castle of Bedfordshire, the head of the Beauchamp barony, was
at Bedford, where the Ouse, menaced by the Danish galleys, was protected
early in the tenth century by a mound upon each bank, one of which is now
removed and the other was crowned by the keep of the Norman castle.
Bedford Castle is famous for two memorable sieges in the reigns of Stephen
and Henry III. Of its works, once extensive, the masonry has been removed,
the fosse has also been filled up, and the mound somewhat reduced in size.
Risinghoe, The Giants hill, on the Ouse below Bedford, seems to have had a
shell keep, and at Tempsford is to be seen a curious but small earthwork
thrown up by the Danes in 921, and taken by Edward the Elder late in the
year. Whether this was the site of the subsequent Norman castle is very
doubtful. There was also a castle at Odell or Wahull, the seat of the barons
of that name. It is uncertain when was founded Bletsoe, a castle and the
head of a Beauchamp barony. Below Bedford, on the Ouse, are the
earthworks of Eaton-Socon, also a Beauchamp castle, but dismantled at an
early period.
The remains of the castle of Huntingdon, though reduced to banks,
ditches, and a mound, nevertheless show how spacious and how strong
must have been this chief seat of the broad earldom of Countess Judith and
her descendants the kings of Scotland, earls also of Huntingdon. The Danes
were encamped here in 921, and the burh which had been ruined was
restored by Eadward in the same year. The ditches were fed from the Ouse,
which expanded before the castle as a broad marsh, now a fertile meadow.
Of the early military history of the castles of Connington, Kimbolton, and
Bruck, but little is recorded.
The castle of the Giffards, earls of Buckingham, included one of the two
burhs which were thrown up on opposite sides of the Ouse, in 915, to
command the river and protect the town. The castle was probably destroyed
in the reign of Stephen, and the further mound levelled. The Paganels had a
castle at Newport; the Hanslapes at Castlethorpe; the Barons Bolbec at
Bolbec, now Bullbanks, in Medmenham; and there seem to have been
castles at Winslow, Lavendon, and Whitchurch.
Prince spent his latter days, and here he died.
The chief castle of Bedfordshire, the head of the Beauchamp barony, was
at Bedford, where the Ouse, menaced by the Danish galleys, was protected
early in the tenth century by a mound upon each bank, one of which is now
removed and the other was crowned by the keep of the Norman castle.
Bedford Castle is famous for two memorable sieges in the reigns of Stephen
and Henry III. Of its works, once extensive, the masonry has been removed,
the fosse has also been filled up, and the mound somewhat reduced in size.
Risinghoe, The Giants hill, on the Ouse below Bedford, seems to have had a
shell keep, and at Tempsford is to be seen a curious but small earthwork
thrown up by the Danes in 921, and taken by Edward the Elder late in the
year. Whether this was the site of the subsequent Norman castle is very
doubtful. There was also a castle at Odell or Wahull, the seat of the barons
of that name. It is uncertain when was founded Bletsoe, a castle and the
head of a Beauchamp barony. Below Bedford, on the Ouse, are the
earthworks of Eaton-Socon, also a Beauchamp castle, but dismantled at an
early period.
The remains of the castle of Huntingdon, though reduced to banks,
ditches, and a mound, nevertheless show how spacious and how strong
must have been this chief seat of the broad earldom of Countess Judith and
her descendants the kings of Scotland, earls also of Huntingdon. The Danes
were encamped here in 921, and the burh which had been ruined was
restored by Eadward in the same year. The ditches were fed from the Ouse,
which expanded before the castle as a broad marsh, now a fertile meadow.
Of the early military history of the castles of Connington, Kimbolton, and
Bruck, but little is recorded.
The castle of the Giffards, earls of Buckingham, included one of the two
burhs which were thrown up on opposite sides of the Ouse, in 915, to
command the river and protect the town. The castle was probably destroyed
in the reign of Stephen, and the further mound levelled. The Paganels had a
castle at Newport; the Hanslapes at Castlethorpe; the Barons Bolbec at
Bolbec, now Bullbanks, in Medmenham; and there seem to have been
castles at Winslow, Lavendon, and Whitchurch.
Page 94
West of this district came Berkshire, Oxfordshire, and Gloucestershire.
Windsor, Wallingford and Reading have been mentioned. The keep of
Windsor has a late Norman base, and the foundation of a gateway is of that
date, as is the entrance to a very curious gallery in the chalk, which ran
from the interior of the place beneath the buildings and the wall and opened
as a postern upon the scarp of the main ditch. The mound upon which the
round tower is placed is artificial and was surrounded by banks and ditches
much on the plan of Arundel. Reading was an early castle and strongly
posted between the Thames and the Kennet, upon an earthwork long before
contested between the Danes and the Saxons. The castle is supposed to have
been demolished by Henry III., in pursuance of the treaty of Wallingford:
no trace of it remains. Wallingford has had better fortune: its mound and
enclosure, the seat of the English Wigod, occupy one corner of the
rectangular earthworks of the town, and rest upon the river. It was attached
to the earldom of Cornwall, and was a place of great strength and splendour.
A few fragments of masonry still remain, and some traces of Stephen’s
camp on the opposite bank at Crowmarsh. There were also castles, though
of small consequence and doubtful age, at Newbury, Brightwell,
Farringdon, and Aldworth, the latter the seat of the Barons de la Beche.
Oxford Castle was a place of great antiquity and very strong, and formed
a part of the defences of the city. The mound remains and a crypt within it,
but the keep is gone. There is seen, however, above the river bank a rude
and early square tower of Norman work, now a prison. At Banbury,
Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, built a castle in 1125, which was held by the
Crown under Edward II. At Middleton was a strong castle, held by Richard
de Camville in the reign of John, and there were others, smaller buildings,
at Bampton, Bedington, Dedington, and Watlington, possibly demolished
by Henry II. Broughton, the castle of the Lords Say, is in this county.
Woodstock, though a royal manor, does not seem to have been fortified.
The castles at Ardley and Chipping-Norton were destroyed by Stephen. The
latter had a moated mound.
In Gloucestershire, besides Bristol, which was more connected with
Somerset, is Berkeley Castle, mentioned in the survey, but in its present
form built for its lord by Henry II. in acknowledgment of services rendered
to the Duke of Anjou, which remains marvellously little altered to the
present day. Gloucester, a royal castle, stood on the Severn bank at one
Windsor, Wallingford and Reading have been mentioned. The keep of
Windsor has a late Norman base, and the foundation of a gateway is of that
date, as is the entrance to a very curious gallery in the chalk, which ran
from the interior of the place beneath the buildings and the wall and opened
as a postern upon the scarp of the main ditch. The mound upon which the
round tower is placed is artificial and was surrounded by banks and ditches
much on the plan of Arundel. Reading was an early castle and strongly
posted between the Thames and the Kennet, upon an earthwork long before
contested between the Danes and the Saxons. The castle is supposed to have
been demolished by Henry III., in pursuance of the treaty of Wallingford:
no trace of it remains. Wallingford has had better fortune: its mound and
enclosure, the seat of the English Wigod, occupy one corner of the
rectangular earthworks of the town, and rest upon the river. It was attached
to the earldom of Cornwall, and was a place of great strength and splendour.
A few fragments of masonry still remain, and some traces of Stephen’s
camp on the opposite bank at Crowmarsh. There were also castles, though
of small consequence and doubtful age, at Newbury, Brightwell,
Farringdon, and Aldworth, the latter the seat of the Barons de la Beche.
Oxford Castle was a place of great antiquity and very strong, and formed
a part of the defences of the city. The mound remains and a crypt within it,
but the keep is gone. There is seen, however, above the river bank a rude
and early square tower of Norman work, now a prison. At Banbury,
Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, built a castle in 1125, which was held by the
Crown under Edward II. At Middleton was a strong castle, held by Richard
de Camville in the reign of John, and there were others, smaller buildings,
at Bampton, Bedington, Dedington, and Watlington, possibly demolished
by Henry II. Broughton, the castle of the Lords Say, is in this county.
Woodstock, though a royal manor, does not seem to have been fortified.
The castles at Ardley and Chipping-Norton were destroyed by Stephen. The
latter had a moated mound.
In Gloucestershire, besides Bristol, which was more connected with
Somerset, is Berkeley Castle, mentioned in the survey, but in its present
form built for its lord by Henry II. in acknowledgment of services rendered
to the Duke of Anjou, which remains marvellously little altered to the
present day. Gloucester, a royal castle, stood on the Severn bank at one
Page 95
angle of the Roman city. It had a mound and a shell keep, now utterly
levelled, and the site partially built over. It was the muster-place and
starting-point for expeditions against South Wales, and the not infrequent
residence of the Norman sovereigns. Sudeley and Winchcombe were early
castles; the latter stood near St. Peter’s Church, and was the seat of
Kenulph, a Mercian king. There were also castles at Dursley and at
Brimpsfield, built by Osbert Giffard. The only Gloucestershire castle of any
consequence beyond the Severn was St. Briavels, built by Milo, Earl of
Hereford, probably about 1130, upon or near the site of an earlier work,
represented by an artificial mound. In the reign of Henry I. it was in the
hands of the Crown. It is the special head of Dene Forest, of which the
constable of the castle was warden. Here were held the miners’ courts, the
usages of which were very peculiar. St. Briavels formed the connecting link
between Gloucester and such of the Monmouthshire castles as were in the
hands of the Crown. Of smaller castles in this district may be mentioned
one at Aylesmore near Dymock, one near Huntley, and others at Ruardean
and Penyard.
North of Gloucestershire came the castles of the more purely midland
shires of Worcester, Warwick, Stafford, Northampton, Leicester, and
towards the eastern seaboard, Lincoln. The castle of Worcester stood on the
bank of the Severn, hard by the cathedral. The mound, now removed, was
occupied with masonry by Urso d’Abitot, who, however, did not always get
the best of it in his conflicts with the bishop. Also on the Severn was
Hanley, long since destroyed, and Emly, also a Beauchamp seat. Hartlebury,
the episcopal castle, is further inland, as is Dudley, the seat of the Barons
Somery, a place of high antiquity and great natural strength.
Warwick was one of the greatest, and by far the most famous of the
midland castles, famous not merely for its early strength and later
magnificence but for the long line of powerful earls, culminating in the
king-maker, who possessed it and bore its name. It was founded as a burh
early in the tenth century, and the keep, said to have resembled Clifford’s
Tower at York, stood upon the mound: both are now removed. The castle as
usual formed a part of the enceinte of the town, and the wall from the west
gate to the castle stood upon an early earth bank. Near to Warwick is
Kenilworth, the chief fortress of the midland, including a large area, and
strongly though artificially fortified. Of the English Kenelm nothing is
levelled, and the site partially built over. It was the muster-place and
starting-point for expeditions against South Wales, and the not infrequent
residence of the Norman sovereigns. Sudeley and Winchcombe were early
castles; the latter stood near St. Peter’s Church, and was the seat of
Kenulph, a Mercian king. There were also castles at Dursley and at
Brimpsfield, built by Osbert Giffard. The only Gloucestershire castle of any
consequence beyond the Severn was St. Briavels, built by Milo, Earl of
Hereford, probably about 1130, upon or near the site of an earlier work,
represented by an artificial mound. In the reign of Henry I. it was in the
hands of the Crown. It is the special head of Dene Forest, of which the
constable of the castle was warden. Here were held the miners’ courts, the
usages of which were very peculiar. St. Briavels formed the connecting link
between Gloucester and such of the Monmouthshire castles as were in the
hands of the Crown. Of smaller castles in this district may be mentioned
one at Aylesmore near Dymock, one near Huntley, and others at Ruardean
and Penyard.
North of Gloucestershire came the castles of the more purely midland
shires of Worcester, Warwick, Stafford, Northampton, Leicester, and
towards the eastern seaboard, Lincoln. The castle of Worcester stood on the
bank of the Severn, hard by the cathedral. The mound, now removed, was
occupied with masonry by Urso d’Abitot, who, however, did not always get
the best of it in his conflicts with the bishop. Also on the Severn was
Hanley, long since destroyed, and Emly, also a Beauchamp seat. Hartlebury,
the episcopal castle, is further inland, as is Dudley, the seat of the Barons
Somery, a place of high antiquity and great natural strength.
Warwick was one of the greatest, and by far the most famous of the
midland castles, famous not merely for its early strength and later
magnificence but for the long line of powerful earls, culminating in the
king-maker, who possessed it and bore its name. It was founded as a burh
early in the tenth century, and the keep, said to have resembled Clifford’s
Tower at York, stood upon the mound: both are now removed. The castle as
usual formed a part of the enceinte of the town, and the wall from the west
gate to the castle stood upon an early earth bank. Near to Warwick is
Kenilworth, the chief fortress of the midland, including a large area, and
strongly though artificially fortified. Of the English Kenelm nothing is
Page 96
recorded, but the founder of its Norman work was the first of the house of
Clinton, one of Henry I.’s new earls, probably the only extant family
descended in a direct male line from the builder of a Norman keep of the
first class. The square keep and much of the existing wall are original, but
the broad lake, which added so much to its strength and is now drained and
converted into meadow, was probably a rather later addition, of the age of
the gatehouse on the dam, and of the curious earthwork covering its head.
The central earthworks are probably very early. Of Maxtoke, also a Clinton
castle, there are remains. Of the castle at Fillongley, the chief seat of the
Lords Hastings till they married the heiress of Cantelupe, and removed to
Abergavenny, only a few fragments remain. Ralph Gernon had a castle at
Coventry. Brownsover, Sekington, and Fullbrook castles were probably
adulterine, and are known only by vague tradition, and it is doubtful
whether the castle of the De Castellos included the burh at Castle
Bromwich or was on the site of the later manor house. The burh at
Sekington is very perfect. The Limesis had a castle at Solihull, of which the
moat long remained, as had the Coleshills at that place. The Birminghams
had a castle in the manor of that name, near the church; there were early
castles at Erdington, at Studley on the Arrow, and at Oversley, long the seat
of the Butlers, whose ancestor was “Pincerna” to the Earls of Leicester.
Beldesert, built by Thurstan de Montfort soon after the Conquest, received a
market from the Empress Maud, and Dugdale mentions Simili Castle,
probably the seat of a family of that name. Ragley was a later castle.
Coventry was strongly walled.
The line of the Trent on its passage through Staffordshire was amply
fortified. Stafford, otherwise Chebsey castle, constructed by the Conqueror,
probably upon the burh thrown up by Eathelflaeda in 913, was destroyed
before the date of the Survey, and was, therefore, probably not a work in
masonry. The town was fortified. The castle of the Barons Stafford was near
the town, but outside it. Its foundations are original. Of the Ferrers castles
Chartley is only indicated by a mound. Beaudesert and Burton are
destroyed. Tamworth, their chief seat, as that of the Marmions before them,
still retains its shell keep and part of the curtain wall, remarkable for its
herringbone masonry. It was a royal Saxon residence in the eighth century,
and the mound on which stands the keep was thrown up in 931. As at
Wareham and Wallingford, it is placed near the river in one corner of a
rectangular earthwork open on that side. Tutbury, also a Ferrers castle,
Clinton, one of Henry I.’s new earls, probably the only extant family
descended in a direct male line from the builder of a Norman keep of the
first class. The square keep and much of the existing wall are original, but
the broad lake, which added so much to its strength and is now drained and
converted into meadow, was probably a rather later addition, of the age of
the gatehouse on the dam, and of the curious earthwork covering its head.
The central earthworks are probably very early. Of Maxtoke, also a Clinton
castle, there are remains. Of the castle at Fillongley, the chief seat of the
Lords Hastings till they married the heiress of Cantelupe, and removed to
Abergavenny, only a few fragments remain. Ralph Gernon had a castle at
Coventry. Brownsover, Sekington, and Fullbrook castles were probably
adulterine, and are known only by vague tradition, and it is doubtful
whether the castle of the De Castellos included the burh at Castle
Bromwich or was on the site of the later manor house. The burh at
Sekington is very perfect. The Limesis had a castle at Solihull, of which the
moat long remained, as had the Coleshills at that place. The Birminghams
had a castle in the manor of that name, near the church; there were early
castles at Erdington, at Studley on the Arrow, and at Oversley, long the seat
of the Butlers, whose ancestor was “Pincerna” to the Earls of Leicester.
Beldesert, built by Thurstan de Montfort soon after the Conquest, received a
market from the Empress Maud, and Dugdale mentions Simili Castle,
probably the seat of a family of that name. Ragley was a later castle.
Coventry was strongly walled.
The line of the Trent on its passage through Staffordshire was amply
fortified. Stafford, otherwise Chebsey castle, constructed by the Conqueror,
probably upon the burh thrown up by Eathelflaeda in 913, was destroyed
before the date of the Survey, and was, therefore, probably not a work in
masonry. The town was fortified. The castle of the Barons Stafford was near
the town, but outside it. Its foundations are original. Of the Ferrers castles
Chartley is only indicated by a mound. Beaudesert and Burton are
destroyed. Tamworth, their chief seat, as that of the Marmions before them,
still retains its shell keep and part of the curtain wall, remarkable for its
herringbone masonry. It was a royal Saxon residence in the eighth century,
and the mound on which stands the keep was thrown up in 931. As at
Wareham and Wallingford, it is placed near the river in one corner of a
rectangular earthwork open on that side. Tutbury, also a Ferrers castle,
Page 97
occupied a natural knoll above the Trent, raised on one side by an artificial
burh, and covered on the other by extensive works in earth of early date,
probably original. The present masonry is chiefly the work of John of
Gaunt, but the fine old Priory church, founded by the early lords, still stands
just outside the ditch. Lichfield is reputed to have had a castle at the south
end of the town. At the north end is the cathedral, “Lichfield’s moated pile,”
defended by a broad and deep ditch, and on one side by a lake or pool. It is
not improbable that these works, which are rectangular in plan, were
executed by the Romanised Britons, and that their existence caused the
selection of this spot as the seat of the bishopric. The Bishop’s castle of
Eccleshall has lately been alienated. There was a castle at Heley, and at
Alton, now Alton Towers, and at Stourton. Of the castle of Newcastle-
under-Lyne, held by the Earl of Chester for John, all trace is lost.
The Northamptonshire castles stood mostly upon the lines of the Nene
and the Welland. Northampton, built by Simon de St. Liz, certainly upon an
earlier site, was a strongly walled and celebrated place, the scene of
important events in English history. Its castle has long been reduced to a
few earthworks and a fragment of masonry, and very recently these also
have been destroyed. Of Fotheringay, a very ancient fortress, the scene of a
siege by Henry III., there remains little in masonry, although the bank and
mound are perfect. It was dismantled by James as the scene of his mother’s
execution. Barnwell Castle is probably late, as is the fine fortified gatehouse
of the Sapcote family, at Elton. At Castle Ashby, all trace of the castle is lost
in the grand old house which has succeeded to it. Of Lilbourne, a moderate
mound and a rectangular earthwork are the sole remains of the castle. Near
Towcester at Moor End in Potterspury, and at Alderton, were castles,
probably built and destroyed in the reigns of Stephen and Henry II.
Towcester itself does not appear to have been fortified by the Normans, nor
the curious burh at Earls Barton, the moot hill for the earldom of Countess
Judith. But of all the Northamptonshire castles the most interesting, both
from its history and its remains, is undoubtedly Rockingham, founded by
the Conqueror upon an old site, standing in its old shire and forest, and
which has been always inhabited and cared for. Near to Rockingham, but in
Rutland, is Oakham, built by Walkelin de Ferrars in 1180, where the keep is
gone, but the original late Norman hall is quite perfect and still in use. Of
the defences of this remarkable fortress there remain ditches and banks,
with a part of the curtain wall and a large outwork of earth. Belvoir, well
burh, and covered on the other by extensive works in earth of early date,
probably original. The present masonry is chiefly the work of John of
Gaunt, but the fine old Priory church, founded by the early lords, still stands
just outside the ditch. Lichfield is reputed to have had a castle at the south
end of the town. At the north end is the cathedral, “Lichfield’s moated pile,”
defended by a broad and deep ditch, and on one side by a lake or pool. It is
not improbable that these works, which are rectangular in plan, were
executed by the Romanised Britons, and that their existence caused the
selection of this spot as the seat of the bishopric. The Bishop’s castle of
Eccleshall has lately been alienated. There was a castle at Heley, and at
Alton, now Alton Towers, and at Stourton. Of the castle of Newcastle-
under-Lyne, held by the Earl of Chester for John, all trace is lost.
The Northamptonshire castles stood mostly upon the lines of the Nene
and the Welland. Northampton, built by Simon de St. Liz, certainly upon an
earlier site, was a strongly walled and celebrated place, the scene of
important events in English history. Its castle has long been reduced to a
few earthworks and a fragment of masonry, and very recently these also
have been destroyed. Of Fotheringay, a very ancient fortress, the scene of a
siege by Henry III., there remains little in masonry, although the bank and
mound are perfect. It was dismantled by James as the scene of his mother’s
execution. Barnwell Castle is probably late, as is the fine fortified gatehouse
of the Sapcote family, at Elton. At Castle Ashby, all trace of the castle is lost
in the grand old house which has succeeded to it. Of Lilbourne, a moderate
mound and a rectangular earthwork are the sole remains of the castle. Near
Towcester at Moor End in Potterspury, and at Alderton, were castles,
probably built and destroyed in the reigns of Stephen and Henry II.
Towcester itself does not appear to have been fortified by the Normans, nor
the curious burh at Earls Barton, the moot hill for the earldom of Countess
Judith. But of all the Northamptonshire castles the most interesting, both
from its history and its remains, is undoubtedly Rockingham, founded by
the Conqueror upon an old site, standing in its old shire and forest, and
which has been always inhabited and cared for. Near to Rockingham, but in
Rutland, is Oakham, built by Walkelin de Ferrars in 1180, where the keep is
gone, but the original late Norman hall is quite perfect and still in use. Of
the defences of this remarkable fortress there remain ditches and banks,
with a part of the curtain wall and a large outwork of earth. Belvoir, well
Page 98
deserving of the name, the only other Rutland castle, was the seat of the
Todenis, ancestors of the D’Albini and Ros families, and of its present
lords. Like Windsor, its circular keep, rebuilt nearly from its foundations,
crowns a detached hill, and from its terrace is one of the richest views in
England.
In Leicestershire, Leicester Castle, the seat of its powerful and turbulent
Norman earls, stood, and in part still stands, between the Soar and the
Roman Ratæ, the walls of which are said to have been destroyed in 1173.
Of Hinckley, the seat of the Grantmaisnils, and the “caput” of their Honour,
the mound alone remains by the side of the Roman way. The castle was
probably dismantled by Henry II. Groby, a Ferrers castle, has long been
reduced to a small mound, and Mount Sorrel, once so strong, is utterly
destroyed. By a convention at Mount Sorrel in the reign of Stephen,
between Robert, Earl of Leicester, and Ralph, Earl of Chester, already cited,
it was agreed that Ralph Gernon’s castle of Raunston should be destroyed
and Whitwick strengthened, but that no new castle should be built between
Hinckley, Donnington, Leicester, Belvoir, Okeham, and Rockingham.
Should any be so built, the two earls agreed to demolish the works. Sauvey
Castle was an early work. Of Castle Donnington, the house of the Zouches
of Ashby, the early history is obscure.
The main castles of Lincolnshire were Lincoln and Axholme. Axholme,
built in the fens of that name, was a place of immense strength, and the
head of a barony of the Mowbrays, a race always on the side of disorder.
The castle has long been destroyed, and the fen, to which it owed much of
its strength, is drained. Lincoln Castle has been more fortunate. The hill of
Lincoln has been thought to retain traces of British occupation, and its
Roman buildings and English earthworks are very remarkable. Soon after
the Conquest 166 houses were destroyed to make room for the castle itself,
and 74 more to give space around it. Its enormous banks occupy an angle of
the Roman station, and contain parts of the ruined wall and gate, both
Roman. The great mound, the larger of two, is occupied by the original
shell keep, which, placed at the foot of the cathedral, towers high above the
city, and overlooks the broad plain beyond. Often visited by the Norman
kings, Lincoln Castle is specially famous for the great battle fought beneath
its walls in 1141, in which Stephen was taken prisoner by Robert, Earl of
Gloucester, and his men from Glamorgan.
Todenis, ancestors of the D’Albini and Ros families, and of its present
lords. Like Windsor, its circular keep, rebuilt nearly from its foundations,
crowns a detached hill, and from its terrace is one of the richest views in
England.
In Leicestershire, Leicester Castle, the seat of its powerful and turbulent
Norman earls, stood, and in part still stands, between the Soar and the
Roman Ratæ, the walls of which are said to have been destroyed in 1173.
Of Hinckley, the seat of the Grantmaisnils, and the “caput” of their Honour,
the mound alone remains by the side of the Roman way. The castle was
probably dismantled by Henry II. Groby, a Ferrers castle, has long been
reduced to a small mound, and Mount Sorrel, once so strong, is utterly
destroyed. By a convention at Mount Sorrel in the reign of Stephen,
between Robert, Earl of Leicester, and Ralph, Earl of Chester, already cited,
it was agreed that Ralph Gernon’s castle of Raunston should be destroyed
and Whitwick strengthened, but that no new castle should be built between
Hinckley, Donnington, Leicester, Belvoir, Okeham, and Rockingham.
Should any be so built, the two earls agreed to demolish the works. Sauvey
Castle was an early work. Of Castle Donnington, the house of the Zouches
of Ashby, the early history is obscure.
The main castles of Lincolnshire were Lincoln and Axholme. Axholme,
built in the fens of that name, was a place of immense strength, and the
head of a barony of the Mowbrays, a race always on the side of disorder.
The castle has long been destroyed, and the fen, to which it owed much of
its strength, is drained. Lincoln Castle has been more fortunate. The hill of
Lincoln has been thought to retain traces of British occupation, and its
Roman buildings and English earthworks are very remarkable. Soon after
the Conquest 166 houses were destroyed to make room for the castle itself,
and 74 more to give space around it. Its enormous banks occupy an angle of
the Roman station, and contain parts of the ruined wall and gate, both
Roman. The great mound, the larger of two, is occupied by the original
shell keep, which, placed at the foot of the cathedral, towers high above the
city, and overlooks the broad plain beyond. Often visited by the Norman
kings, Lincoln Castle is specially famous for the great battle fought beneath
its walls in 1141, in which Stephen was taken prisoner by Robert, Earl of
Gloucester, and his men from Glamorgan.
Page 99
There was a Mowbray Castle at Epworth, now destroyed, and one at
Kenefar, laid level by Henry, Bishop of Lincoln, in the reign of Henry II.
Bourne or Brun was in 870 the seat of a Saxon Thane, whose mound, after
the Conquest, was occupied by the Lords Wake. It was at one time an
important place, and the remaining earthworks show its area to have been
considerable. Bolingbroke Castle, once the “caput” of an Honour, is now
destroyed. Stamford-on-the-Welland was guarded by two mounds, thrown
up in 922, of which one has disappeared, but the other, as at Bedford and
Buckingham, was saved by its incorporation into a Norman castle, to be
seen no longer. Sleaford, an episcopal castle, occasionally mentioned in the
twelfth century, is now gone, as is the castle of Horncastle, restored to
Adelais de Condie in 1151, but at the same time ordered to be demolished,
and which probably stood within the walls of the Roman station, of which
large fragments remain. Bitham also is gone, taken by siege and levelled by
Henry III. in 1218. Folkingham, the “Mansio capitalis” of Ulf the constable,
was held by Gilbert de Garod, and long afterwards fell to the Lords
Beaumont. Boothby was a fortified house of the Paynells or Paganels, and
is of late Norman date. Topclyve Castle was built by Geoffrey, bishop-elect
of Lincoln, in 1174.
Kenefar, laid level by Henry, Bishop of Lincoln, in the reign of Henry II.
Bourne or Brun was in 870 the seat of a Saxon Thane, whose mound, after
the Conquest, was occupied by the Lords Wake. It was at one time an
important place, and the remaining earthworks show its area to have been
considerable. Bolingbroke Castle, once the “caput” of an Honour, is now
destroyed. Stamford-on-the-Welland was guarded by two mounds, thrown
up in 922, of which one has disappeared, but the other, as at Bedford and
Buckingham, was saved by its incorporation into a Norman castle, to be
seen no longer. Sleaford, an episcopal castle, occasionally mentioned in the
twelfth century, is now gone, as is the castle of Horncastle, restored to
Adelais de Condie in 1151, but at the same time ordered to be demolished,
and which probably stood within the walls of the Roman station, of which
large fragments remain. Bitham also is gone, taken by siege and levelled by
Henry III. in 1218. Folkingham, the “Mansio capitalis” of Ulf the constable,
was held by Gilbert de Garod, and long afterwards fell to the Lords
Beaumont. Boothby was a fortified house of the Paynells or Paganels, and
is of late Norman date. Topclyve Castle was built by Geoffrey, bishop-elect
of Lincoln, in 1174.
Page 100
CHAPTER VII.
THE CASTLES OF ENGLAND AND WALES AT THE LATTER PART OF THE
TWELFTH CENTURY (continued).
THE castles of the shires of Nottingham and Derby, of Yorkshire,
Lancashire, and Cheshire, complete the tale of the fortresses south of the
Tees and Lune. Nottingham, one of the castles ordered and possibly built by
the Conqueror, on a rock high above the Trent, contained one of the
grandest of the rectangular keeps. It was removed in the seventeenth
century, and replaced by a building of about the same dimensions, but of
very different character. At the foot of the rock were the two mounds
thrown up in the tenth century to command the passage of the Trent, but
these also have been removed. Another castle upon the Trent was that of
Newark, the work of Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, in the twelfth century.
The very considerable remains include the front towards the river, an
imposing mass of masonry, the effect of which is heightened by the great
gatehouse upon its flank, a Norman work of very unusual size and
splendour. The ground plan of this castle is nearly square, and may
represent a Roman encampment. There was a castle at Worksop.
The oldest and most remarkable of the Derbyshire castles is that of
Castleton or Peveril in the Peak, with its small but strong rectangular keep,
built on the edge of the precipice, at the base of which is the celebrated
cavern, one of the marvels of the Peak. Bolsover, now nearly all rebuilt, was
also a Peveril castle. Of Sheffield, the castle of the Furnivals and Talbots,
placed upon the junction of the Sheaf and the Don, nothing now remains.
There seem to have been early castles, or perhaps fortified houses, at
Codnor, a Zouch seat, Melbourne, and Gresley. Also Bogis and Hareston
were Derbyshire castles in the reign of Henry II.
The wide expanse of Yorkshire contained much worthy of defence, and
was inhabited by a race of men not indisposed to provide it. The mounds of
York, both of the first class in bulk and elevation, were posted on either
bank of the Ouse, here a deep and broad stream. Of these mounds, one
stands on the junction of the Foss with the Ouse, above a tract of marshy
THE CASTLES OF ENGLAND AND WALES AT THE LATTER PART OF THE
TWELFTH CENTURY (continued).
THE castles of the shires of Nottingham and Derby, of Yorkshire,
Lancashire, and Cheshire, complete the tale of the fortresses south of the
Tees and Lune. Nottingham, one of the castles ordered and possibly built by
the Conqueror, on a rock high above the Trent, contained one of the
grandest of the rectangular keeps. It was removed in the seventeenth
century, and replaced by a building of about the same dimensions, but of
very different character. At the foot of the rock were the two mounds
thrown up in the tenth century to command the passage of the Trent, but
these also have been removed. Another castle upon the Trent was that of
Newark, the work of Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, in the twelfth century.
The very considerable remains include the front towards the river, an
imposing mass of masonry, the effect of which is heightened by the great
gatehouse upon its flank, a Norman work of very unusual size and
splendour. The ground plan of this castle is nearly square, and may
represent a Roman encampment. There was a castle at Worksop.
The oldest and most remarkable of the Derbyshire castles is that of
Castleton or Peveril in the Peak, with its small but strong rectangular keep,
built on the edge of the precipice, at the base of which is the celebrated
cavern, one of the marvels of the Peak. Bolsover, now nearly all rebuilt, was
also a Peveril castle. Of Sheffield, the castle of the Furnivals and Talbots,
placed upon the junction of the Sheaf and the Don, nothing now remains.
There seem to have been early castles, or perhaps fortified houses, at
Codnor, a Zouch seat, Melbourne, and Gresley. Also Bogis and Hareston
were Derbyshire castles in the reign of Henry II.
The wide expanse of Yorkshire contained much worthy of defence, and
was inhabited by a race of men not indisposed to provide it. The mounds of
York, both of the first class in bulk and elevation, were posted on either
bank of the Ouse, here a deep and broad stream. Of these mounds, one
stands on the junction of the Foss with the Ouse, above a tract of marshy
Page 101
ground, between it and the wall of the Roman Eboracum. Here the
Conqueror placed his first castle, and in the keep and within the spacious
area below he posted William Malet and his 500 knights and their
followers. Amidst much of modern work the old walls may still be traced,
and a very fine shell, though of Early English date, still stands on the
summit of the mound. The other mound, the Bayle Hill, south of the river,
and connected with the earthworks of the later city, was also fortified by
William, but in haste and with timber only, which does not appear ever to
have been replaced with masonry. The city is strongly fortified with walls
and a ditch, and the celebrated gateways or bars contain each a nucleus or
core of Norman masonry. Next to York in importance is Scarborough, the
stronghold of William le Gros, Earl of Aumarle, and the citadel of
Holderness. The castle may be said to contain the whole table top of a rocky
promontory, defended on three sides by a precipitous cliff, at the foot of
which is the German Ocean, while towards the land is a deep natural
depression. The approach was over a narrow causeway, raised upon arches,
broken in the centre by a drawbridge and bridge tower, covered at the outer
end by a strong barbican, and terminating below a lofty rectangular keep,
much of which still remains, and by the side of which was the final
entrance, and probably another drawbridge. In the words of Robert de
Brunne—
“Was there none entree
That to the castle gan ligge
But a straight causee
At the end a drawbrigge.”
Scarborough is not only a strong castle by nature and by art, but is
capable of containing several thousand men,—in fact, a small army. South
of Scarborough, also upon the coast, but where the natural advantages of
the cliff had to be supplied by enormous earthworks, was Skipsea, held and
strengthened by Drogo, William’s Flemish lieutenant in that country.
Aldbrough was also a Holderness castle, built by Odo of Aumarle, of which
there remain only the mound and the wall.
Between Scarborough and York stood Malton, a seat of Earl Siward, and
held by David of Scotland against King Stephen. The masonry is now gone,
but the site is still marked by the Roman camp within or upon the edge of
which the castle stood. North of Malton is Pickering, once the burh of the
English Morcar, where are the remains of a shell keep upon the mound.
Conqueror placed his first castle, and in the keep and within the spacious
area below he posted William Malet and his 500 knights and their
followers. Amidst much of modern work the old walls may still be traced,
and a very fine shell, though of Early English date, still stands on the
summit of the mound. The other mound, the Bayle Hill, south of the river,
and connected with the earthworks of the later city, was also fortified by
William, but in haste and with timber only, which does not appear ever to
have been replaced with masonry. The city is strongly fortified with walls
and a ditch, and the celebrated gateways or bars contain each a nucleus or
core of Norman masonry. Next to York in importance is Scarborough, the
stronghold of William le Gros, Earl of Aumarle, and the citadel of
Holderness. The castle may be said to contain the whole table top of a rocky
promontory, defended on three sides by a precipitous cliff, at the foot of
which is the German Ocean, while towards the land is a deep natural
depression. The approach was over a narrow causeway, raised upon arches,
broken in the centre by a drawbridge and bridge tower, covered at the outer
end by a strong barbican, and terminating below a lofty rectangular keep,
much of which still remains, and by the side of which was the final
entrance, and probably another drawbridge. In the words of Robert de
Brunne—
“Was there none entree
That to the castle gan ligge
But a straight causee
At the end a drawbrigge.”
Scarborough is not only a strong castle by nature and by art, but is
capable of containing several thousand men,—in fact, a small army. South
of Scarborough, also upon the coast, but where the natural advantages of
the cliff had to be supplied by enormous earthworks, was Skipsea, held and
strengthened by Drogo, William’s Flemish lieutenant in that country.
Aldbrough was also a Holderness castle, built by Odo of Aumarle, of which
there remain only the mound and the wall.
Between Scarborough and York stood Malton, a seat of Earl Siward, and
held by David of Scotland against King Stephen. The masonry is now gone,
but the site is still marked by the Roman camp within or upon the edge of
which the castle stood. North of Malton is Pickering, once the burh of the
English Morcar, where are the remains of a shell keep upon the mound.
Page 102
Here the mound is central between and common to both wards. The general
enclosing curtain is tolerably perfect, and the whole affords an excellent
example of the manner in which the Norman architects dealt with an
earthwork when the mound stood in the centre of an enclosure, instead of as
usual upon one side of it. On the edge of the Honour of Pickering is
Hamlake or Helmsley, the seat of the Barons de Ros before they inherited
Belvoir, and where the remains of a very late rectangular keep stand on one
side of a rectangular court, having two regular gatehouses, walls built
against lofty banks, and beyond them strong and extensive outworks in
earth and masonry. It is difficult to form an opinion upon the age of these
earthworks. They impinge upon and are certainly later than a small Roman
camp. At Mulgrave and Normanby were castles; at the latter are still parts
of a rectangular Norman keep. Mulgrave stands on the sea cliff. It was the
seat of the Saxon Wada and afterwards the Castle of Nigel Fossard and the
Mowbrays. At Gilling some early vaults and walls are worked into the later
castle of the Fairfaxes. Thirsk, Black Bourton in Lonsdale, and Malzeard,
the “capita” of three Mowbray Baronies, all contained castles of some
importance in the twelfth century. Of Malzeard and Bourton the earthworks
are considerable. Tadcaster, a place of strength both in Roman and Danish
times, possessed also a Norman castle, of which, however, only the mounds
remain; and there is even less of Hugh Puisèt’s work of Northallerton,
surrendered to Henry II. in 1174, and ordered to be destroyed in 1177. Its
earthworks are intersected by a railway. Of Tanfield, a Fitz-Hugh and
Marmion castle, there are still some small remains.
The great castle of North Yorkshire is Richmond, so called by Earl Alan,
who obtained in 1070 the possessions of the English Edwin, and removed
the seat from the adjacent Gilling, where the earthworks long remained, to a
stronger position on the Swale. The Norman Castle was built in 1071: it
includes a large area, most part of which is defended by a natural cliff. The
containing wall is mostly original, and within its substance is a curious
small Norman chapel. The rectangular keep is placed at the weakest part of
the circuit next to the town, and in front of it are the remains of a barbican.
The well-known “Registrum Honoris de Richmond” specifies to which part
of the castle the castle guard of each great tenant was due, and the Hall
which the family of Scolland were bound to maintain and guard to this day
bears their name. The town was also walled. Near Richmond are the scanty
and late remains of Ravenswath, a Fitz-Hugh castle, and lower down the
enclosing curtain is tolerably perfect, and the whole affords an excellent
example of the manner in which the Norman architects dealt with an
earthwork when the mound stood in the centre of an enclosure, instead of as
usual upon one side of it. On the edge of the Honour of Pickering is
Hamlake or Helmsley, the seat of the Barons de Ros before they inherited
Belvoir, and where the remains of a very late rectangular keep stand on one
side of a rectangular court, having two regular gatehouses, walls built
against lofty banks, and beyond them strong and extensive outworks in
earth and masonry. It is difficult to form an opinion upon the age of these
earthworks. They impinge upon and are certainly later than a small Roman
camp. At Mulgrave and Normanby were castles; at the latter are still parts
of a rectangular Norman keep. Mulgrave stands on the sea cliff. It was the
seat of the Saxon Wada and afterwards the Castle of Nigel Fossard and the
Mowbrays. At Gilling some early vaults and walls are worked into the later
castle of the Fairfaxes. Thirsk, Black Bourton in Lonsdale, and Malzeard,
the “capita” of three Mowbray Baronies, all contained castles of some
importance in the twelfth century. Of Malzeard and Bourton the earthworks
are considerable. Tadcaster, a place of strength both in Roman and Danish
times, possessed also a Norman castle, of which, however, only the mounds
remain; and there is even less of Hugh Puisèt’s work of Northallerton,
surrendered to Henry II. in 1174, and ordered to be destroyed in 1177. Its
earthworks are intersected by a railway. Of Tanfield, a Fitz-Hugh and
Marmion castle, there are still some small remains.
The great castle of North Yorkshire is Richmond, so called by Earl Alan,
who obtained in 1070 the possessions of the English Edwin, and removed
the seat from the adjacent Gilling, where the earthworks long remained, to a
stronger position on the Swale. The Norman Castle was built in 1071: it
includes a large area, most part of which is defended by a natural cliff. The
containing wall is mostly original, and within its substance is a curious
small Norman chapel. The rectangular keep is placed at the weakest part of
the circuit next to the town, and in front of it are the remains of a barbican.
The well-known “Registrum Honoris de Richmond” specifies to which part
of the castle the castle guard of each great tenant was due, and the Hall
which the family of Scolland were bound to maintain and guard to this day
bears their name. The town was also walled. Near Richmond are the scanty
and late remains of Ravenswath, a Fitz-Hugh castle, and lower down the
Page 103
Swale was Bedale, the castle of “Le beau Bryan de Fitz-Aleyne,” now
entirely gone, though the site is still pointed out. The warlike habits of the
Lords are, however, represented by a curious portcullis closing the door of
the belfry in the parish church. Middleham Castle, on the edge of its
celebrated moor, was founded by Ribald, brother to Earl Alan, and ancestor
in the female line of the great family of Neville, under whom the Norman
keep received its handsome addition and gained its fame. Masham, a castle
of the Scropes, is now a mere ruin. Drax seems to have been held by Ralph
Paganel as early as the reign of Stephen. Merhall, in Weston, a castle of the
Barons Lancaster, is reputed to have been demolished by King John.
Killarby, Albruck-on-Tees, and Cawdwell were early castles, as were
Armanthwaite, Bowes, Hatlesey, Sigston, and Whorlton. Of Gleaston, the
moot-hill remains, which is thought to have been surmounted by a keep;
and Hornby was also a Lonsdale castle. The passes of the Lune were,
however, more celebrated for their defensive earthworks, due to the Danes
or the English, than for Norman castles.
Coningsborough, on the Don, is no less from its position than its
architecture one of the most remarkable of Yorkshire castles. Its grand
cylindrical tower, supported by buttresses of great depth and height, is
superior in design and workmanship to that of Pembroke, and almost rivals
Coucy. It stands on the summit of a steep rocky knoll, and has been inserted
into an earlier Norman wall, which is built upon the steep edge of the rock
and encloses a court of moderate area. Upon the slope are the remains of the
entrance and fortified approach, and at the base of the hill is a ditch, or
rather a ravine, and on one side beyond it an outwork in earth. Probably the
hill has been occupied as a place of strength from a very early time, but the
masonry is the work of the Warrens Earls of Surrey, and is worthy of their
greatness. Knaresborough Castle, on the Nidd, visited by Henry II. in 1181,
occupies the top of a rocky promontory. Here the keep, though of Norman
form and dimensions, is of Decorated date, and remarkable for the
excellence of its details. The adjacent town has also been fortified, though
apparently by a ditch and bank only. Pontefract, another celebrated
Yorkshire castle, is also peculiar. Here the castle encloses a large and
elevated platform of rock, scarped and revetted all round, and at one end of
which, enclosing an earthen mound, is the circular keep. Much of its
masonry is of the eleventh or the early part of the twelfth century. Its
subterranean passages and chambers, of Norman date, are curious. Besides
entirely gone, though the site is still pointed out. The warlike habits of the
Lords are, however, represented by a curious portcullis closing the door of
the belfry in the parish church. Middleham Castle, on the edge of its
celebrated moor, was founded by Ribald, brother to Earl Alan, and ancestor
in the female line of the great family of Neville, under whom the Norman
keep received its handsome addition and gained its fame. Masham, a castle
of the Scropes, is now a mere ruin. Drax seems to have been held by Ralph
Paganel as early as the reign of Stephen. Merhall, in Weston, a castle of the
Barons Lancaster, is reputed to have been demolished by King John.
Killarby, Albruck-on-Tees, and Cawdwell were early castles, as were
Armanthwaite, Bowes, Hatlesey, Sigston, and Whorlton. Of Gleaston, the
moot-hill remains, which is thought to have been surmounted by a keep;
and Hornby was also a Lonsdale castle. The passes of the Lune were,
however, more celebrated for their defensive earthworks, due to the Danes
or the English, than for Norman castles.
Coningsborough, on the Don, is no less from its position than its
architecture one of the most remarkable of Yorkshire castles. Its grand
cylindrical tower, supported by buttresses of great depth and height, is
superior in design and workmanship to that of Pembroke, and almost rivals
Coucy. It stands on the summit of a steep rocky knoll, and has been inserted
into an earlier Norman wall, which is built upon the steep edge of the rock
and encloses a court of moderate area. Upon the slope are the remains of the
entrance and fortified approach, and at the base of the hill is a ditch, or
rather a ravine, and on one side beyond it an outwork in earth. Probably the
hill has been occupied as a place of strength from a very early time, but the
masonry is the work of the Warrens Earls of Surrey, and is worthy of their
greatness. Knaresborough Castle, on the Nidd, visited by Henry II. in 1181,
occupies the top of a rocky promontory. Here the keep, though of Norman
form and dimensions, is of Decorated date, and remarkable for the
excellence of its details. The adjacent town has also been fortified, though
apparently by a ditch and bank only. Pontefract, another celebrated
Yorkshire castle, is also peculiar. Here the castle encloses a large and
elevated platform of rock, scarped and revetted all round, and at one end of
which, enclosing an earthen mound, is the circular keep. Much of its
masonry is of the eleventh or the early part of the twelfth century. Its
subterranean passages and chambers, of Norman date, are curious. Besides
Page 104
these, Yorkshire contains many other castles connected for the most part
with great baronial families, and playing their part in the defence of the
country against the Scots. Harewood, reputed a Danish seat, was the castle
of Robert de Romeli; Skipton, also built by that family, contains some early
parts, and has always been inhabited. Kilton was a castle of Cleveland, as
was Castleton, where the Bruces fortified a moated mound. Burton was
granted by the Conqueror to the same family, having been a seat of Earl
Morcar; Danby was also a Bruce castle, and Skelton Castle, built in 1140,
was the head of their barony. There was also the Archbishop’s castle of
Cawood, and Crake, a castle of the Bishops of Durham, said to be
mentioned in the seventh century. Baynard was a castle of the Lords Wake
of Cottingham; Leeds Castle was besieged by Stephen in 1139; Wilton was
an early castle of the Bulmers; Guisborough was founded in 1120; Sandal
Castle, under the walls of which was fought the battle of Wakefield, was a
late Warren castle, but the mound and earthworks are on a large scale and
old. Yorkshire contained also a considerable number of fortified houses,
some of which bore the names of castles, though whether of early date is
uncertain; such were Ryther and Slingsby. There is said to have been a
castle at Upsal, and one at Hilderskelf, in the grounds of Castle-Howard.
Wressill and Sheriff Hutton in their present forms are very late, but the
latter has an early history, and near the parish church are some remarkable
earthworks, which it is thought mark the site of an early castle.
Yorkshire is rich in earthworks, and especially in moated mounds. Many
have already been mentioned as having been incorporated into later castles;
there are others of at least equal age and strength which do not seem ever to
have been connected with masonry: such are Mexbrough, Castleton,
Wakefield, Levington on the Leven, and others on the Lune. Some of these
are known to have been the seats of English Earls and Thanes, and after the
Conquest fell into disuse and decay, though at that period they were
probably formidable.
Lancashire, in the castle-building age, was not recognised as a county,
but was divided between the part then included in Yorkshire and the tract
between the Mersey and the Ribble. This latter formed the great Barony of
Roger of Poitou, a younger son of Earl Roger of Shrewsbury. His castle of
Penverdant or Penwortham is named in “Domesday,” and its colossal
mound is still called the Castle Hill, but the “caput” of the barony was the
with great baronial families, and playing their part in the defence of the
country against the Scots. Harewood, reputed a Danish seat, was the castle
of Robert de Romeli; Skipton, also built by that family, contains some early
parts, and has always been inhabited. Kilton was a castle of Cleveland, as
was Castleton, where the Bruces fortified a moated mound. Burton was
granted by the Conqueror to the same family, having been a seat of Earl
Morcar; Danby was also a Bruce castle, and Skelton Castle, built in 1140,
was the head of their barony. There was also the Archbishop’s castle of
Cawood, and Crake, a castle of the Bishops of Durham, said to be
mentioned in the seventh century. Baynard was a castle of the Lords Wake
of Cottingham; Leeds Castle was besieged by Stephen in 1139; Wilton was
an early castle of the Bulmers; Guisborough was founded in 1120; Sandal
Castle, under the walls of which was fought the battle of Wakefield, was a
late Warren castle, but the mound and earthworks are on a large scale and
old. Yorkshire contained also a considerable number of fortified houses,
some of which bore the names of castles, though whether of early date is
uncertain; such were Ryther and Slingsby. There is said to have been a
castle at Upsal, and one at Hilderskelf, in the grounds of Castle-Howard.
Wressill and Sheriff Hutton in their present forms are very late, but the
latter has an early history, and near the parish church are some remarkable
earthworks, which it is thought mark the site of an early castle.
Yorkshire is rich in earthworks, and especially in moated mounds. Many
have already been mentioned as having been incorporated into later castles;
there are others of at least equal age and strength which do not seem ever to
have been connected with masonry: such are Mexbrough, Castleton,
Wakefield, Levington on the Leven, and others on the Lune. Some of these
are known to have been the seats of English Earls and Thanes, and after the
Conquest fell into disuse and decay, though at that period they were
probably formidable.
Lancashire, in the castle-building age, was not recognised as a county,
but was divided between the part then included in Yorkshire and the tract
between the Mersey and the Ribble. This latter formed the great Barony of
Roger of Poitou, a younger son of Earl Roger of Shrewsbury. His castle of
Penverdant or Penwortham is named in “Domesday,” and its colossal
mound is still called the Castle Hill, but the “caput” of the barony was the
Page 105
Castle of Clitheroe, the small but strong square keep of which stands on the
point of a steep promontory of rock, and must have been nearly inaccessible
to assault. Upon Earl Roger’s fall, Clitheroe came to the Lacys. The great
castle of Lancashire is at Lancaster, well placed high above the broad water
of the Lune, and within the area of a Roman castrum, whence it derives its
name. Here, as at Carlisle, the railway is so laid out as to show the castle to
great advantage. The castle is attributed to Roger of Poitou, but the Norman
keep, a grand structure, ninety feet high, appears somewhat later, as is the
Edwardian gateway, also a superb specimen of military architecture.
Unfortunately, being a prison, the whole is closed against antiquarian
visitors. There was a castle at Liverpool said to have been built by the same
Roger in 1076. Merhull and Kirkby are Lancashire castles attributed to
Gilbert Fitz-Reinfrid. There seems to have been a castle at Manchester, on
the Irwell, just outside the old town, in Leland’s time, and one at
Greenhalgh, and one near Rochdale, probably at Castleton, where was the
burh of the English lord. At Halton is also a lofty burh, as usual near the
church, indicating the site of the “aula” of the English lord, and of the keep
of his Norman successor. Castlehead in Atterpole, near Cartmel, is also
reputed an early castle. The castles of Holland, Hornby, Peel, Thurland,
Ulverston, and Glaiston are probably of later date.
Cheshire, the palatine earldom of Hugh, named, probably by his
posterity, “the Wolf,” standing upon the Welsh border, demanded and was
supplied by many strong places. Chester, the seat of the earldom, represents
the Roman Deva, the Castra Legionum; and the Norman castle, with a small
and early rectangular keep occupying one corner of the area, stands on the
verge of the river Dee. Near to Chester in Wirrall was Shotwick, of which
the earthworks remain, and higher up upon the Dee was Holt. Beeston is
almost the only remarkable fortress in the county. It stands on the platform
of an inaccessible rock. The masonry is probably late, but the deep well
may be a part of the Norman castle. All the fifteen barons of the palatinate,
feudatories of Earl Hugh, had castles, but these, representing private estates,
mostly continued to be occupied and became fortified houses. The sites and
more or less of the remains are to be seen of Halton and Kinderton, the
castles of William Fitz-Hugh and Venables; Shipbrook of the Vernons;
Nantwich of Piers Malbanke; Malpas of Robert Fitz-Hugh; and Dunham of
Hamo de Massy. There were also castles at Frodsham, Oldcastle,
Uttersford, Pulford, Dodleston, Shockleach, Nantwich, Stockport, Burton,
point of a steep promontory of rock, and must have been nearly inaccessible
to assault. Upon Earl Roger’s fall, Clitheroe came to the Lacys. The great
castle of Lancashire is at Lancaster, well placed high above the broad water
of the Lune, and within the area of a Roman castrum, whence it derives its
name. Here, as at Carlisle, the railway is so laid out as to show the castle to
great advantage. The castle is attributed to Roger of Poitou, but the Norman
keep, a grand structure, ninety feet high, appears somewhat later, as is the
Edwardian gateway, also a superb specimen of military architecture.
Unfortunately, being a prison, the whole is closed against antiquarian
visitors. There was a castle at Liverpool said to have been built by the same
Roger in 1076. Merhull and Kirkby are Lancashire castles attributed to
Gilbert Fitz-Reinfrid. There seems to have been a castle at Manchester, on
the Irwell, just outside the old town, in Leland’s time, and one at
Greenhalgh, and one near Rochdale, probably at Castleton, where was the
burh of the English lord. At Halton is also a lofty burh, as usual near the
church, indicating the site of the “aula” of the English lord, and of the keep
of his Norman successor. Castlehead in Atterpole, near Cartmel, is also
reputed an early castle. The castles of Holland, Hornby, Peel, Thurland,
Ulverston, and Glaiston are probably of later date.
Cheshire, the palatine earldom of Hugh, named, probably by his
posterity, “the Wolf,” standing upon the Welsh border, demanded and was
supplied by many strong places. Chester, the seat of the earldom, represents
the Roman Deva, the Castra Legionum; and the Norman castle, with a small
and early rectangular keep occupying one corner of the area, stands on the
verge of the river Dee. Near to Chester in Wirrall was Shotwick, of which
the earthworks remain, and higher up upon the Dee was Holt. Beeston is
almost the only remarkable fortress in the county. It stands on the platform
of an inaccessible rock. The masonry is probably late, but the deep well
may be a part of the Norman castle. All the fifteen barons of the palatinate,
feudatories of Earl Hugh, had castles, but these, representing private estates,
mostly continued to be occupied and became fortified houses. The sites and
more or less of the remains are to be seen of Halton and Kinderton, the
castles of William Fitz-Hugh and Venables; Shipbrook of the Vernons;
Nantwich of Piers Malbanke; Malpas of Robert Fitz-Hugh; and Dunham of
Hamo de Massy. There were also castles at Frodsham, Oldcastle,
Uttersford, Pulford, Dodleston, Shockleach, Nantwich, Stockport, Burton,
Page 106
Ullerwood, Runcorn, West Derby, Northwick, Castle Cob, and probably
some others. A large number of these sites are marked by moated mounds,
and there are besides many similar mounds in the county to which masonry
does not appear to have been added.
Thus, between the Thames and the Tees, the Bristol Avon and the Lune,
the central parts of England contained at the close of the reign of Henry II.
at the least 214 castles, of which about 17 had rectangular and 44 shell
keeps. As to the remaining 153, nothing is accurately known, or they are
found not to have belonged to either of the great types. Of these castles
probably at least 180 stood on old English sites, and very few indeed can be
said with certainty to have stood upon altogether new foundations.
There remain to be considered the castles of the northern counties,
Westmoreland and Cumberland, Durham and Northumberland, for centuries
exposed to invasions from beyond the Tweed, and fortified accordingly. In
this tract were at least four castles of the first class,—Durham, Bamburgh,
Norham, and the strongly-posted town and castle of Berwick; and of the
second class Brough, Appleby and Brougham, Cockermouth, Carlisle,
Prudhoe and Newcastle, Ford and Alnwick, and Warkworth. Besides these
were others, some perhaps at times almost their equals in importance, but
the continued incursions of the Scots were fatal to the English fortresses, as
were those of the English to the Scotch, and thus many on both sides the
border were again and again burned and levelled, until they were either not
rebuilt or only represented by peel towers and castellets, which again were
destroyed, so that of very many castles the names only are preserved.
The lake country of Westmoreland was strong and contained little to
attract plunderers; but on its edge on the winding Eamont is Brougham
Castle, with a pure Norman keep, bearing testimony to the power of the
Barons Vipont, its early lords. It stands upon the side of a well-preserved
Roman camp, as does Brough, another Norman castle, also with a
rectangular keep. A similar keep at Appleby is still inhabited. Kendal Castle
is probably an early fortress, though nothing remains of it but an encircling
and not very early wall. Westmoreland is peculiarly rich in fortified manor-
houses, some of which may be on old sites, though the greater number, like
the castle of Penrith, belong to a later period. There were peels or castellets
at Bewly, Hartley, Howgill, and Pendragon.
some others. A large number of these sites are marked by moated mounds,
and there are besides many similar mounds in the county to which masonry
does not appear to have been added.
Thus, between the Thames and the Tees, the Bristol Avon and the Lune,
the central parts of England contained at the close of the reign of Henry II.
at the least 214 castles, of which about 17 had rectangular and 44 shell
keeps. As to the remaining 153, nothing is accurately known, or they are
found not to have belonged to either of the great types. Of these castles
probably at least 180 stood on old English sites, and very few indeed can be
said with certainty to have stood upon altogether new foundations.
There remain to be considered the castles of the northern counties,
Westmoreland and Cumberland, Durham and Northumberland, for centuries
exposed to invasions from beyond the Tweed, and fortified accordingly. In
this tract were at least four castles of the first class,—Durham, Bamburgh,
Norham, and the strongly-posted town and castle of Berwick; and of the
second class Brough, Appleby and Brougham, Cockermouth, Carlisle,
Prudhoe and Newcastle, Ford and Alnwick, and Warkworth. Besides these
were others, some perhaps at times almost their equals in importance, but
the continued incursions of the Scots were fatal to the English fortresses, as
were those of the English to the Scotch, and thus many on both sides the
border were again and again burned and levelled, until they were either not
rebuilt or only represented by peel towers and castellets, which again were
destroyed, so that of very many castles the names only are preserved.
The lake country of Westmoreland was strong and contained little to
attract plunderers; but on its edge on the winding Eamont is Brougham
Castle, with a pure Norman keep, bearing testimony to the power of the
Barons Vipont, its early lords. It stands upon the side of a well-preserved
Roman camp, as does Brough, another Norman castle, also with a
rectangular keep. A similar keep at Appleby is still inhabited. Kendal Castle
is probably an early fortress, though nothing remains of it but an encircling
and not very early wall. Westmoreland is peculiarly rich in fortified manor-
houses, some of which may be on old sites, though the greater number, like
the castle of Penrith, belong to a later period. There were peels or castellets
at Bewly, Hartley, Howgill, and Pendragon.
Page 107
Carlisle is the citadel of Cumberland, and was for centuries the most
important fortress in the North, playing a considerable part in every Scottish
war. The name proclaims it to be of British origin, and its position led to its
adoption by the Romans; and, indeed, it is said that the ditch of the southern
of the two great lines of defence thrown up by that people divides the castle
from the town. Cumberland bears many marks of Danish invasions, and in
one of these in the ninth century Carlisle was laid waste, and so remained,
until in 1093 William Rufus founded the castle and added the town to his
kingdom. His successor raised the town into an episcopal city and
completed what was needed in the castle. Patched and neglected as is the
keep, still the principal features of the castle and the encircling walls are for
the most part original. Rose Castle, the episcopal seat, higher up the river, is
on an old site and in part old. Cockermouth, a castle of William de
Meschines and the Lords Lucy, remains, and near it, towards St. Bees, is a
fragment of Egremont, also built by De Meschines. Scaleby, on the most
exposed frontier, a De Tilliol castle—though not of the eleventh century—is
perfect; which cannot be said of Bewcastle, built by the Lords de Vaux.
Naworth, still inhabited, was inherited by the Howards from the Dacres,
who also probably gave name to Dacre, rather a strong house than a castle.
Besides these there are or were strong places at St. Andrews, Askerton,
Blencraik, St. Bees, Castle-Corrock, Corby, Cannonby, Dalby, Dilston,
Down Hall, Dunvalloght, Drawdykes, Greystock, Horton, Harington, Hay-
Castle, Heton, Highgate, Irton, St. John’s, Featherstone, Kirk-Oswald,
Kyloe tower, Liddell Strength, Linstock, Lorton, Millom, Ousby, Rowcliffe,
Shank, Triermain, and Wolsty. Many of these are dotted about the more
exposed parts of the county; others are in the rear of the Roman wall.
The castle of Durham, taken alone, is rivalled both in position and
grandeur by Bamburgh, but taken in conjunction with the cathedral and
attendant buildings,
“Half church of God, half fortress ’gainst the Scot,”
the group is without an equal. The main feature of the castle is the circular
keep, a rebuilding of probably the oldest and most complete of that type in
Britain. The lower ward also is spacious, and includes many buildings,
some of them of early Norman date. The castle is posted upon the root of
the rocky peninsula included by a fold of the Tees, and stands between the
city and the grand old shrine and final resting place of St. Cuthbert. The
important fortress in the North, playing a considerable part in every Scottish
war. The name proclaims it to be of British origin, and its position led to its
adoption by the Romans; and, indeed, it is said that the ditch of the southern
of the two great lines of defence thrown up by that people divides the castle
from the town. Cumberland bears many marks of Danish invasions, and in
one of these in the ninth century Carlisle was laid waste, and so remained,
until in 1093 William Rufus founded the castle and added the town to his
kingdom. His successor raised the town into an episcopal city and
completed what was needed in the castle. Patched and neglected as is the
keep, still the principal features of the castle and the encircling walls are for
the most part original. Rose Castle, the episcopal seat, higher up the river, is
on an old site and in part old. Cockermouth, a castle of William de
Meschines and the Lords Lucy, remains, and near it, towards St. Bees, is a
fragment of Egremont, also built by De Meschines. Scaleby, on the most
exposed frontier, a De Tilliol castle—though not of the eleventh century—is
perfect; which cannot be said of Bewcastle, built by the Lords de Vaux.
Naworth, still inhabited, was inherited by the Howards from the Dacres,
who also probably gave name to Dacre, rather a strong house than a castle.
Besides these there are or were strong places at St. Andrews, Askerton,
Blencraik, St. Bees, Castle-Corrock, Corby, Cannonby, Dalby, Dilston,
Down Hall, Dunvalloght, Drawdykes, Greystock, Horton, Harington, Hay-
Castle, Heton, Highgate, Irton, St. John’s, Featherstone, Kirk-Oswald,
Kyloe tower, Liddell Strength, Linstock, Lorton, Millom, Ousby, Rowcliffe,
Shank, Triermain, and Wolsty. Many of these are dotted about the more
exposed parts of the county; others are in the rear of the Roman wall.
The castle of Durham, taken alone, is rivalled both in position and
grandeur by Bamburgh, but taken in conjunction with the cathedral and
attendant buildings,
“Half church of God, half fortress ’gainst the Scot,”
the group is without an equal. The main feature of the castle is the circular
keep, a rebuilding of probably the oldest and most complete of that type in
Britain. The lower ward also is spacious, and includes many buildings,
some of them of early Norman date. The castle is posted upon the root of
the rocky peninsula included by a fold of the Tees, and stands between the
city and the grand old shrine and final resting place of St. Cuthbert. The
Page 108
older parts were probably built in the reign of the Conqueror, about 1088,
when William, having banished Carileph, held the temporalities of the see;
other authorities attribute the work to Bishop Comyn in 1072. The two chief
castles of the Bishopric are Raby and Barnard Castle, for Norham is
virtually in Northumberland. Raby, the celebrated seat of the Nevilles, is of
Norman origin, as is Barnard Castle, though its fine round tower is later. In
plan this castle much resembles Ludlow, to which its position is not inferior.
It is named from Barnard de Baliol. Branspeth, also a Neville castle, is a
noble structure, but of later date than Raby. Bowes has a late Norman keep.
Besides these may be mentioned Lumley, Staindrop, Streatlam, Witton,
Stockton, and Bishop Auckland. In the local quarrels the names also occur
of Evenwood Castle, near Auckland, Hilton, Holy Island, and, better known
from its later possessors, Ravensworth. The Bishopric was well fortified,
and was besides intersected by the deep ravines of the Tees, and possessed
the Tyne for a frontier.
“Foremost,”—the quotation is drawn from the writings of an author who,
beyond any other of the present day, makes his own mark upon what he
writes,—“in interest among the monuments of Northumberland, in the
narrower sense of the earldom beyond the Tyne, stand the castles; the
castles of every size and shape, from Bamburgh, where the castle occupies
the whole site of a royal city, to the smallest pele-tower, where the pettiest
squire or parson sought shelter for himself in the upper stage, and for his
cows in the lower. For the pele-towers of the Border-land, like the endless
small square towers of Ireland, are essentially castles. They show the type
of the Norman keep continued on a small scale to a very late time. Perhaps
many of the adulterine castles which arose in every time of anarchy, and
were overthrown at every return of order, many of the eleven hundred and
odd castles which overspread the land during the anarchy of Stephen, may
not have been of much greater pretensions. At any rate, from the great keep
of Newcastle,—were we not in Northumberland we should speak of the far
greater keep of Colchester,—to the smallest pele-tower which survives as a
small part of a modern house, the idea which runs through all is exactly the
same. The castles and towers then, great and small, are the most marked
feature of the county. They distinguish it from those shires where castles of
any kind are rare; and the employment of the type of the great keeps on a
very small scale distinguishes it from the other land of castles. In Wales the
Norman keep is not usual; the castles are, for the most part, later in date and
when William, having banished Carileph, held the temporalities of the see;
other authorities attribute the work to Bishop Comyn in 1072. The two chief
castles of the Bishopric are Raby and Barnard Castle, for Norham is
virtually in Northumberland. Raby, the celebrated seat of the Nevilles, is of
Norman origin, as is Barnard Castle, though its fine round tower is later. In
plan this castle much resembles Ludlow, to which its position is not inferior.
It is named from Barnard de Baliol. Branspeth, also a Neville castle, is a
noble structure, but of later date than Raby. Bowes has a late Norman keep.
Besides these may be mentioned Lumley, Staindrop, Streatlam, Witton,
Stockton, and Bishop Auckland. In the local quarrels the names also occur
of Evenwood Castle, near Auckland, Hilton, Holy Island, and, better known
from its later possessors, Ravensworth. The Bishopric was well fortified,
and was besides intersected by the deep ravines of the Tees, and possessed
the Tyne for a frontier.
“Foremost,”—the quotation is drawn from the writings of an author who,
beyond any other of the present day, makes his own mark upon what he
writes,—“in interest among the monuments of Northumberland, in the
narrower sense of the earldom beyond the Tyne, stand the castles; the
castles of every size and shape, from Bamburgh, where the castle occupies
the whole site of a royal city, to the smallest pele-tower, where the pettiest
squire or parson sought shelter for himself in the upper stage, and for his
cows in the lower. For the pele-towers of the Border-land, like the endless
small square towers of Ireland, are essentially castles. They show the type
of the Norman keep continued on a small scale to a very late time. Perhaps
many of the adulterine castles which arose in every time of anarchy, and
were overthrown at every return of order, many of the eleven hundred and
odd castles which overspread the land during the anarchy of Stephen, may
not have been of much greater pretensions. At any rate, from the great keep
of Newcastle,—were we not in Northumberland we should speak of the far
greater keep of Colchester,—to the smallest pele-tower which survives as a
small part of a modern house, the idea which runs through all is exactly the
same. The castles and towers then, great and small, are the most marked
feature of the county. They distinguish it from those shires where castles of
any kind are rare; and the employment of the type of the great keeps on a
very small scale distinguishes it from the other land of castles. In Wales the
Norman keep is not usual; the castles are, for the most part, later in date and
Page 109
more complex in plan; and the small square private tower, the distinctive
feature of the North, is there hardly to be found. Northumberland has much
to show the traveller in many ways, from the Roman wall onward, but the
feature which is especially characteristic is that it is the land of castles.”
Northumberland is said to have contained sixty castles, but this must
include many fortified houses and castles of the private gentry. Alnwick,
better known as the seat of the earls of Northumberland than from its
builder and early lords, is a very fine example of a baronial castle. The keep
or central ward includes an open court, entered by a Norman gateway
encrusted by a Decorated gatehouse, and round which, incorporated with
the curtain, were the hall, kitchen, chapel, and the lord’s lodgings. Most of
the court has been rebuilt, but the old lines and much of the old foundations
have been preserved, and the effect is probably not unlike that of the
original Norman court. The concentric defences, walls, towers, and
barbican are old, though not original. The castle stands between the town
and the Alne, beyond which is the park. The builder seems to have been
Eustace de Vesci in the late Norman period, before 1157. Three miles to the
north is the tower of Highfarland. Warkworth, built by one of the Fitz-
Richard family in the reign of Henry II., was much injured by William the
Lion, who laid siege to it in 1176, but still retains large remains of the
original work. Tynemouth, an island fortress, seems to have been a seat of
Earl Waltheof; it was long afterwards a Percy castle. Prudhoe, a castle of the
Umfravilles, built in the middle of the eleventh century, has a small Norman
keep, and most of the original curtain wall. The additions include a barbican
and a curious chapel over the gateway. The original castle was attacked
without success by William of Scotland in 1174. The castle of Newcastle,
high upon the bank of the Tyne and included within the walls of the town,
was built by Robert Curthose in 1080, and is a very perfect example of a
rectangular Norman keep, with a curious oratory within the fore-building
and a great number of mural passages and chambers, so that in many
respects it has the appearance of being half a century later than its recorded
date. It is also well preserved, saving some injudicious alterations made
many years since, and it is accessible to every visitor, being in the hands of
the local antiquarian society, and under the safe and skilful protection of the
historian of the Roman wall.
feature of the North, is there hardly to be found. Northumberland has much
to show the traveller in many ways, from the Roman wall onward, but the
feature which is especially characteristic is that it is the land of castles.”
Northumberland is said to have contained sixty castles, but this must
include many fortified houses and castles of the private gentry. Alnwick,
better known as the seat of the earls of Northumberland than from its
builder and early lords, is a very fine example of a baronial castle. The keep
or central ward includes an open court, entered by a Norman gateway
encrusted by a Decorated gatehouse, and round which, incorporated with
the curtain, were the hall, kitchen, chapel, and the lord’s lodgings. Most of
the court has been rebuilt, but the old lines and much of the old foundations
have been preserved, and the effect is probably not unlike that of the
original Norman court. The concentric defences, walls, towers, and
barbican are old, though not original. The castle stands between the town
and the Alne, beyond which is the park. The builder seems to have been
Eustace de Vesci in the late Norman period, before 1157. Three miles to the
north is the tower of Highfarland. Warkworth, built by one of the Fitz-
Richard family in the reign of Henry II., was much injured by William the
Lion, who laid siege to it in 1176, but still retains large remains of the
original work. Tynemouth, an island fortress, seems to have been a seat of
Earl Waltheof; it was long afterwards a Percy castle. Prudhoe, a castle of the
Umfravilles, built in the middle of the eleventh century, has a small Norman
keep, and most of the original curtain wall. The additions include a barbican
and a curious chapel over the gateway. The original castle was attacked
without success by William of Scotland in 1174. The castle of Newcastle,
high upon the bank of the Tyne and included within the walls of the town,
was built by Robert Curthose in 1080, and is a very perfect example of a
rectangular Norman keep, with a curious oratory within the fore-building
and a great number of mural passages and chambers, so that in many
respects it has the appearance of being half a century later than its recorded
date. It is also well preserved, saving some injudicious alterations made
many years since, and it is accessible to every visitor, being in the hands of
the local antiquarian society, and under the safe and skilful protection of the
historian of the Roman wall.
Page 110
Bamburgh is probably the oldest, and in all respects the noblest and most
historical of the Northumbrian fortresses. It was founded by the flame-
bearing Ida in the sixth century, when it was enclosed by a hedge and
afterwards by a wall, but most of its circuit was already fortified by a
natural cliff of great height. The castle occupies the whole of this elevated
platform of basalt, one side of which is upon the sea beach. The wall is built
along the edge of the precipice, and rising above all is a magnificent square
Norman keep of rather late date, somewhat altered indeed within and still
inhabited, but retaining most of its original features, and altogether
presenting a very grand appearance. Bamburgh, like Alnwick, has come
under the wand of the enchanter, and any reference to it would indeed be
incomplete which took no notice of the following passage drawn from the
Saturday Review:—“At Bamburgh, above all, we feel that we are pilgrims
come to do our service at one of the great cradles of our national life. It is
the one spot in northern England around which the same interest gathers
which belongs to the landing-places of Hengest, of Ælle, and of Cerdic, in
the southern lands. It is to the Angle what these spots are to the Jute and the
Saxon. The beginnings of the Anglian kingdoms are less rich in romantic
and personal lore than are those of their Jutish and Saxon neighbours.
Unless we chose to accept the tale about Octa and Ebussa, we have no
record of the actual leaders of the first Teutonic settlements in the Anglian
parts of Britain. The earliest kingdoms seem not to have been founded by
new comers from beyond the sea, but to have been formed by the fusing
together of smaller independent settlements. Yet around Bamburgh and its
founder, Ida, all Northumbrian history gathers. Though its keep is more
than five hundred years later than Ida’s time,—though it is only here and
there that we see fragments of masonry which we even guess may be older
than the keep,—it is still a perfectly allowable figure when the poet of
northern Britain speaks of Bamburgh as ‘King Ida’s fortress.’ The founder
of the Northumbrian kingdom, the first who bore the kingly name in
Bamburgh, the warrior whom the trembling Briton spoke of as the ‘flame-
bearer,’ appears, in the one slight authentic notice of him, not as the leader
of a new colony from the older England, but rather as the man who gathered
together a number of scattered independent settlements into a nation and a
kingdom. The chronicler records of him that in 547 ‘he took to the
kingdom’; but nothing is said of his coming, like Hengest or Cerdic, from
beyond sea. And all the other accounts fall in with the same notion. Henry
historical of the Northumbrian fortresses. It was founded by the flame-
bearing Ida in the sixth century, when it was enclosed by a hedge and
afterwards by a wall, but most of its circuit was already fortified by a
natural cliff of great height. The castle occupies the whole of this elevated
platform of basalt, one side of which is upon the sea beach. The wall is built
along the edge of the precipice, and rising above all is a magnificent square
Norman keep of rather late date, somewhat altered indeed within and still
inhabited, but retaining most of its original features, and altogether
presenting a very grand appearance. Bamburgh, like Alnwick, has come
under the wand of the enchanter, and any reference to it would indeed be
incomplete which took no notice of the following passage drawn from the
Saturday Review:—“At Bamburgh, above all, we feel that we are pilgrims
come to do our service at one of the great cradles of our national life. It is
the one spot in northern England around which the same interest gathers
which belongs to the landing-places of Hengest, of Ælle, and of Cerdic, in
the southern lands. It is to the Angle what these spots are to the Jute and the
Saxon. The beginnings of the Anglian kingdoms are less rich in romantic
and personal lore than are those of their Jutish and Saxon neighbours.
Unless we chose to accept the tale about Octa and Ebussa, we have no
record of the actual leaders of the first Teutonic settlements in the Anglian
parts of Britain. The earliest kingdoms seem not to have been founded by
new comers from beyond the sea, but to have been formed by the fusing
together of smaller independent settlements. Yet around Bamburgh and its
founder, Ida, all Northumbrian history gathers. Though its keep is more
than five hundred years later than Ida’s time,—though it is only here and
there that we see fragments of masonry which we even guess may be older
than the keep,—it is still a perfectly allowable figure when the poet of
northern Britain speaks of Bamburgh as ‘King Ida’s fortress.’ The founder
of the Northumbrian kingdom, the first who bore the kingly name in
Bamburgh, the warrior whom the trembling Briton spoke of as the ‘flame-
bearer,’ appears, in the one slight authentic notice of him, not as the leader
of a new colony from the older England, but rather as the man who gathered
together a number of scattered independent settlements into a nation and a
kingdom. The chronicler records of him that in 547 ‘he took to the
kingdom’; but nothing is said of his coming, like Hengest or Cerdic, from
beyond sea. And all the other accounts fall in with the same notion. Henry
Page 111
of Huntingdon, though he has no story to tell, no ballad to translate, was
doubtless following some old tradition when he described the Anglian
chiefs, after a series of victories over the Welsh, joining together to set a
king over them. And all agree in speaking of Bamburgh, called, so the story
ran, from the Queen Bebbe, as a special work of Ida. Whatever may be the
origin of the name, it suggests the kindred name of the East Frankish
Babenberg, which has been cut short into Bamberg by the same process
which has cut short Bebbanburh into Bamburgh. Yet Bamburgh was a
fortress by nature, even before Ida had fenced it in, first with a hedge and
then with a wall. Here we see the succession of the early stages of
fortification, the palisade first and then the earthen wall, the vallum, not the
murus, of the Roman art of defence. But, whether hedge or wall, the site of
Bamburgh was already a castle before it had been fenced in by the simplest
forms of art. That mass of isolated basaltic rock frowning over the sea on
one side, over the land on the other, was indeed a spot marked out by nature
for dominion. Here was the dwelling-place of successive Bernician kings,
ealdormen, and earls; here they took shelter as in an impregnable refuge
from the inroads of Scot and Dane. Here the elder Waltheof shut himself up
in terror, while his valiant son Uhtred sent forth and rescued the newly-
founded church and city of Durham from the invader. Here Gospatric the
Earl held his head-quarters, while he and Malcolm of Scotland were
ravaging each other’s lands in turn. In earlier days a banished Northumbrian
king, flying from his own people to seek shelter with the Picts, defended
himself for a while at Bamburgh, and gave the native chronicler of
Northumberland an opportunity of giving us our earliest picture of the spot.
Baeda, without mentioning the name, had spoken of Bamburgh as a royal
city, and it is not only as a fortress, but as a city, that Bamburgh appears in
the Northumbrian chronicler. He speaks of ‘Bebba civitas’ as ‘Urbs
munitissima non admodum magna.’ It did not take in more than the space of
two or three fields; still it was a city, though a city approached by lofty
steps, and with a single entrance hollowed in the rock. Its highest point was
crowned, not as yet by the keep of the Norman, but by a church, which,
according to the standard of the eighth century, was a goodly one. This
church contained a precious chest, which sheltered a yet more precious
relic, the wonder-working right hand of the martyred King Oswald. We
read, too, how the city, perched on its ocean rock, was yet, unlike the inland
hill of the elder Salisbury, well furnished with water, clear to the eye and
doubtless following some old tradition when he described the Anglian
chiefs, after a series of victories over the Welsh, joining together to set a
king over them. And all agree in speaking of Bamburgh, called, so the story
ran, from the Queen Bebbe, as a special work of Ida. Whatever may be the
origin of the name, it suggests the kindred name of the East Frankish
Babenberg, which has been cut short into Bamberg by the same process
which has cut short Bebbanburh into Bamburgh. Yet Bamburgh was a
fortress by nature, even before Ida had fenced it in, first with a hedge and
then with a wall. Here we see the succession of the early stages of
fortification, the palisade first and then the earthen wall, the vallum, not the
murus, of the Roman art of defence. But, whether hedge or wall, the site of
Bamburgh was already a castle before it had been fenced in by the simplest
forms of art. That mass of isolated basaltic rock frowning over the sea on
one side, over the land on the other, was indeed a spot marked out by nature
for dominion. Here was the dwelling-place of successive Bernician kings,
ealdormen, and earls; here they took shelter as in an impregnable refuge
from the inroads of Scot and Dane. Here the elder Waltheof shut himself up
in terror, while his valiant son Uhtred sent forth and rescued the newly-
founded church and city of Durham from the invader. Here Gospatric the
Earl held his head-quarters, while he and Malcolm of Scotland were
ravaging each other’s lands in turn. In earlier days a banished Northumbrian
king, flying from his own people to seek shelter with the Picts, defended
himself for a while at Bamburgh, and gave the native chronicler of
Northumberland an opportunity of giving us our earliest picture of the spot.
Baeda, without mentioning the name, had spoken of Bamburgh as a royal
city, and it is not only as a fortress, but as a city, that Bamburgh appears in
the Northumbrian chronicler. He speaks of ‘Bebba civitas’ as ‘Urbs
munitissima non admodum magna.’ It did not take in more than the space of
two or three fields; still it was a city, though a city approached by lofty
steps, and with a single entrance hollowed in the rock. Its highest point was
crowned, not as yet by the keep of the Norman, but by a church, which,
according to the standard of the eighth century, was a goodly one. This
church contained a precious chest, which sheltered a yet more precious
relic, the wonder-working right hand of the martyred King Oswald. We
read, too, how the city, perched on its ocean rock, was yet, unlike the inland
hill of the elder Salisbury, well furnished with water, clear to the eye and
Page 112
sweet to the taste. We see, then, what the royal city of the Bernician realm
really was. It simply took in the present circuit of the castle. The present
village, with its stately church, is, even in its origin, of later date. But by the
time that we reach the event in the history of Bamburgh which is told us in
the most striking detail, the keep had already arisen; the English city had
become the Norman castle. In the days of Rufus, when the fierce Robert of
Mowbray had risen a second time in rebellion, the keep of Bamburgh, safe
on its rock and guarded by surrounding waves and marshes, was deemed
beyond the power even of the Red King to subdue by force of arms. The
building of another fortress to hold it in check, the ἐπιτειχισμὁς, as a Greek
would have called it, which bore the mocking name of Malvoisin, was all
that could be done while the rebel earl kept himself within the impregnable
walls. It was only when he risked himself without those walls, when he was
led up to them as a captive, with his eyes to be seared out if his valiant wife
refused to surrender, that Bamburgh came into the royal hands.”
At Mitford is a very peculiar Norman keep still held by the descendants
of its early lords. Bothal, the Ogle Castle, may be old, but its present
remains are scarcely so, and this is also the case with Morpeth, a castle of
the De Maulays.
Of Berwick Castle the remains are inconsiderable and are encroached
upon by the railway station, but the adjacent town has a bank and ditch and
a low tower or two or bastion, of its ancient defences, and within these is a
citadel of the age of Vauban. Higher up and on the opposite or English bank
of the Tweed is the grand episcopal castle of Norham, the special care of the
bishops of Durham. Its rectangular keep is of unusual size, and though
entirely Norman, of two periods. Parts of its containing wall are also
original, as is the gatehouse, and about it are various earthworks, remains
apparently of some of the sieges which it has undergone, and beyond these
are the lines of a large Roman camp.
Norham, attributed to Bishop Flambard in 1121, was surrendered to
Henry II. by Bishop Puisèt in 1174, and was entrusted to William de Neville
in 1177. Beneath the walls and within the adjacent parish church Edward
entertained and decided upon the claims to the Scottish throne. Among the
more considerable of Northumbrian castles were Ford, Chillingham, Wark,
and the Umfraville castle of Harbottle. There should also be mentioned as
occurring in border story, Aydon, Bavington, Belsay, Bellister, Birtley,
really was. It simply took in the present circuit of the castle. The present
village, with its stately church, is, even in its origin, of later date. But by the
time that we reach the event in the history of Bamburgh which is told us in
the most striking detail, the keep had already arisen; the English city had
become the Norman castle. In the days of Rufus, when the fierce Robert of
Mowbray had risen a second time in rebellion, the keep of Bamburgh, safe
on its rock and guarded by surrounding waves and marshes, was deemed
beyond the power even of the Red King to subdue by force of arms. The
building of another fortress to hold it in check, the ἐπιτειχισμὁς, as a Greek
would have called it, which bore the mocking name of Malvoisin, was all
that could be done while the rebel earl kept himself within the impregnable
walls. It was only when he risked himself without those walls, when he was
led up to them as a captive, with his eyes to be seared out if his valiant wife
refused to surrender, that Bamburgh came into the royal hands.”
At Mitford is a very peculiar Norman keep still held by the descendants
of its early lords. Bothal, the Ogle Castle, may be old, but its present
remains are scarcely so, and this is also the case with Morpeth, a castle of
the De Maulays.
Of Berwick Castle the remains are inconsiderable and are encroached
upon by the railway station, but the adjacent town has a bank and ditch and
a low tower or two or bastion, of its ancient defences, and within these is a
citadel of the age of Vauban. Higher up and on the opposite or English bank
of the Tweed is the grand episcopal castle of Norham, the special care of the
bishops of Durham. Its rectangular keep is of unusual size, and though
entirely Norman, of two periods. Parts of its containing wall are also
original, as is the gatehouse, and about it are various earthworks, remains
apparently of some of the sieges which it has undergone, and beyond these
are the lines of a large Roman camp.
Norham, attributed to Bishop Flambard in 1121, was surrendered to
Henry II. by Bishop Puisèt in 1174, and was entrusted to William de Neville
in 1177. Beneath the walls and within the adjacent parish church Edward
entertained and decided upon the claims to the Scottish throne. Among the
more considerable of Northumbrian castles were Ford, Chillingham, Wark,
and the Umfraville castle of Harbottle. There should also be mentioned as
occurring in border story, Aydon, Bavington, Belsay, Bellister, Birtley,
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Blenkinsop, Bywell tower, Burraden tower, Capheaton, Carlington,
Chipchase, Cornhill, Cockle Park tower, Coupland, Dale, Duddon tower,
Edlingham, Errington, Elsdon, Etal, Eskott, Farne, Fenwick tower, Horton,
Houghton, Heaton, Hirst, Hemmell, Kyloe, Langley, Littleharle and Lilburn
towers, Lemington, Newton tower, Ogle, Pontland, Simonsburn, Spylaw,
Swinbourne, Shortflatt tower, Tarot, Tynemouth, Thirlwall, Wallington,
Widdrington, Witton, Williesmotewick, and a few more peels and castellets
and early moats, showing where strong houses formerly stood. The fact
was, that for many centuries no owner of land near the Scottish border
could live without some kind of defence, and a careful survey, while it
might fail to discover traces of some of the above, would probably establish
those of many as yet unrecorded.
It appears, then, that in the four northern counties there are at least 103
strong places, of which ten boast rectangular Norman, and one or perhaps
two, shell, keeps, while of ninety-one little is known.
Chipchase, Cornhill, Cockle Park tower, Coupland, Dale, Duddon tower,
Edlingham, Errington, Elsdon, Etal, Eskott, Farne, Fenwick tower, Horton,
Houghton, Heaton, Hirst, Hemmell, Kyloe, Langley, Littleharle and Lilburn
towers, Lemington, Newton tower, Ogle, Pontland, Simonsburn, Spylaw,
Swinbourne, Shortflatt tower, Tarot, Tynemouth, Thirlwall, Wallington,
Widdrington, Witton, Williesmotewick, and a few more peels and castellets
and early moats, showing where strong houses formerly stood. The fact
was, that for many centuries no owner of land near the Scottish border
could live without some kind of defence, and a careful survey, while it
might fail to discover traces of some of the above, would probably establish
those of many as yet unrecorded.
It appears, then, that in the four northern counties there are at least 103
strong places, of which ten boast rectangular Norman, and one or perhaps
two, shell, keeps, while of ninety-one little is known.
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CHAPTER VIII.
THE CASTLES OF ENGLAND AND WALES AT THE LATTER PART OF THE
TWELFTH CENTURY (concluded).
THERE remain to be enumerated the castles west of the Severn and the Dee
up to the Dyke of Offa. To this tract must be added on the one hand the half
of Shropshire, which was on the English side of the Severn; on the other,
one or two valleys like those of the upper Severn and the Wye, penetrating
into the heart of Wales; and to the north and south a tract of seaboard,
reaching in the one case to the Conwy, and in the other to Pembroke and
including Aberystwith. Of this border-land, divided between the northern,
middle, and western Marches, the first was given in charge by the
Conqueror to Hugh Earl of Chester; the second to Roger Earl of
Shrewsbury, Arundel, and Montgomery; and opposite to the last, most of
which was as yet unconquered, was placed William FitzOsbern, Earl of
Hereford. In the north and middle Marches the opposing parts of Wales
were mountainous and strong, exceedingly dangerous to invade, and of
little value to a conqueror; but in the south the country was far more open
and more fertile, far less dangerous to the invader, and offering far greater
attraction to the cupidity of the settler. The general policy was to penetrate
the country by the open valleys and the seaboard, and at certain frequent
points to erect castles strong enough to resist a sudden attack, and
occasionally capacious enough to contain men and stores sufficient to
reinforce troops in the field, or to receive and rally them when worsted.
The three principal fortresses which, placed upon English territory,
formed in a military point of view the base for operations in Wales, were
Chester on the Dee, Shrewsbury upon the Severn, and Gloucester at the
mouth of the same river, the last being under the Mercian kings a place of
great strength and importance. Chester and Gloucester were of Roman,
Shrewsbury of British origin. In advance of Chester, and beyond the estuary
of the Dee, were the castles of Hawarden, Ewloe, Halkin, Flint, Diserth,
Rhuddlan, and Diganwy, extending upon or at no great distance from the
sea coast as far as the Conwy river. More inland and south of these are
THE CASTLES OF ENGLAND AND WALES AT THE LATTER PART OF THE
TWELFTH CENTURY (concluded).
THERE remain to be enumerated the castles west of the Severn and the Dee
up to the Dyke of Offa. To this tract must be added on the one hand the half
of Shropshire, which was on the English side of the Severn; on the other,
one or two valleys like those of the upper Severn and the Wye, penetrating
into the heart of Wales; and to the north and south a tract of seaboard,
reaching in the one case to the Conwy, and in the other to Pembroke and
including Aberystwith. Of this border-land, divided between the northern,
middle, and western Marches, the first was given in charge by the
Conqueror to Hugh Earl of Chester; the second to Roger Earl of
Shrewsbury, Arundel, and Montgomery; and opposite to the last, most of
which was as yet unconquered, was placed William FitzOsbern, Earl of
Hereford. In the north and middle Marches the opposing parts of Wales
were mountainous and strong, exceedingly dangerous to invade, and of
little value to a conqueror; but in the south the country was far more open
and more fertile, far less dangerous to the invader, and offering far greater
attraction to the cupidity of the settler. The general policy was to penetrate
the country by the open valleys and the seaboard, and at certain frequent
points to erect castles strong enough to resist a sudden attack, and
occasionally capacious enough to contain men and stores sufficient to
reinforce troops in the field, or to receive and rally them when worsted.
The three principal fortresses which, placed upon English territory,
formed in a military point of view the base for operations in Wales, were
Chester on the Dee, Shrewsbury upon the Severn, and Gloucester at the
mouth of the same river, the last being under the Mercian kings a place of
great strength and importance. Chester and Gloucester were of Roman,
Shrewsbury of British origin. In advance of Chester, and beyond the estuary
of the Dee, were the castles of Hawarden, Ewloe, Halkin, Flint, Diserth,
Rhuddlan, and Diganwy, extending upon or at no great distance from the
sea coast as far as the Conwy river. More inland and south of these are
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Caergwrle, Mold, Ruthyn, Denbigh, and Basingwerk, the last nearly upon
Watt’s Dyke. Hope Castle is mentioned, but is probably the same with
Caergwrle, and Overton, which, though on the Cheshire side of the Dee,
was held by the Princes of Powis. It seems to have been founded by
William Peverel, and was by him defended against Stephen in 1138. Most
of these castles are mere ruins; of others the extant buildings are Edwardian
additions. Hawarden, however, has a tolerably perfect circular keep, with a
small mural oratory, and an exceedingly complex but later arrangement for
defending the approach.
Considerably south of these castles, where the Dee has ceased to be the
dividing stream of England and Wales, is the hill castle of Dinas Brân, an
early and strong place, by whom built is uncertain, but which was held for
long periods by the Welsh Princes. Again, south, upon the Ceiriog river, and
a few yards east of Offa’s Dyke, is Chirk Castle, inhabited and much
altered, but of early date.
The western side of Shropshire and the adjacent part of Montgomery
formed nearly the whole of the Middle March. Earl Roger, its custos under
the Conqueror with powers which William only delegated from absolute
necessity, and which it took his successors centuries to resume, was the
only Norman lord who gave name to a county in the conquered land. Under
him and his lieutenants, Roger Corbet and Roger Mortimer, the March was
feued out to a number of knights and lesser barons, all of whom built
castles, and thus defended the common territory, while protecting their own
private estates. The task of construction probably was not so onerous as at
first sight might appear. Shropshire and Herefordshire, and especially their
most exposed parts, were already studded over thickly with strong places
constructed after their own fashion by the Mercian invaders and settlers,
and of these it is evident that the new lords availed themselves until they
were able to make additions to them in masonry.
Of Shrewsbury Castle, the citadel of the Middle March, and the “caput”
of Earl Roger’s earldom, enough remains to show that, though small in
area, it was a place of excessive strength. The mound upon which the Earl
placed his keep in 1080 still rises to a great height direct from the river, and
of the works to make room for which 51 English burgages were swept away
there still remain parts of the wall, a gatehouse, and the foundations of a
later hall. In the Hundred roll, in the reign of Edward I., occurs the
Watt’s Dyke. Hope Castle is mentioned, but is probably the same with
Caergwrle, and Overton, which, though on the Cheshire side of the Dee,
was held by the Princes of Powis. It seems to have been founded by
William Peverel, and was by him defended against Stephen in 1138. Most
of these castles are mere ruins; of others the extant buildings are Edwardian
additions. Hawarden, however, has a tolerably perfect circular keep, with a
small mural oratory, and an exceedingly complex but later arrangement for
defending the approach.
Considerably south of these castles, where the Dee has ceased to be the
dividing stream of England and Wales, is the hill castle of Dinas Brân, an
early and strong place, by whom built is uncertain, but which was held for
long periods by the Welsh Princes. Again, south, upon the Ceiriog river, and
a few yards east of Offa’s Dyke, is Chirk Castle, inhabited and much
altered, but of early date.
The western side of Shropshire and the adjacent part of Montgomery
formed nearly the whole of the Middle March. Earl Roger, its custos under
the Conqueror with powers which William only delegated from absolute
necessity, and which it took his successors centuries to resume, was the
only Norman lord who gave name to a county in the conquered land. Under
him and his lieutenants, Roger Corbet and Roger Mortimer, the March was
feued out to a number of knights and lesser barons, all of whom built
castles, and thus defended the common territory, while protecting their own
private estates. The task of construction probably was not so onerous as at
first sight might appear. Shropshire and Herefordshire, and especially their
most exposed parts, were already studded over thickly with strong places
constructed after their own fashion by the Mercian invaders and settlers,
and of these it is evident that the new lords availed themselves until they
were able to make additions to them in masonry.
Of Shrewsbury Castle, the citadel of the Middle March, and the “caput”
of Earl Roger’s earldom, enough remains to show that, though small in
area, it was a place of excessive strength. The mound upon which the Earl
placed his keep in 1080 still rises to a great height direct from the river, and
of the works to make room for which 51 English burgages were swept away
there still remain parts of the wall, a gatehouse, and the foundations of a
later hall. In the Hundred roll, in the reign of Edward I., occurs the
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following very curious entry:—“Quod unus magnus turris ligneus qui
edificatur in castro Salop corruit in terram tempore domini Uriani de St.
Petro tum vicecomitis et meremium ejusdem turris tempore suo et
temporibus aliorum vicecomitum preterea existencium ita consummatur et
destruitur quod nichil de illo remansit in magnum dampnum domini Regis
et deteracionem ejusdem castri.” Was this a wooden keep upon the mound?
“Quoddam Barbican” is also mentioned, and we are told the “dampnum
mote” amounted to 60 marcs, which damage the jurors do not attribute
altogether to the Abbot’s Mill, for thirty years earlier the mote of the castle
was injured. This can scarcely mean the ditch, for which “fossa” is the word
used. It is evidently the mound. The castle formed part of the town wall,
and occupied an angle of its area. Both castle and town were included
within the foldings of the deep and broad Severn, and indeed often needed
its protection.
In advance of Shrewsbury and placed along the most exposed border of
the county, and sometimes a little beyond it, were seventeen castles, all
strong and of early foundation, though not all of equal importance. Of these,
to the south, the principal were Cleobury, Ludlow, Richard’s Castle,
Wigmore, Knighton, and Knucklas or Heyhope, some within and others a
little to the outside of the dyke. To the west were Clun, Bishop’s Castle,
Montgomery, Cause, Abberbury, and Knockyn, and to the north Oswestry,
Whittington, Ellesmere, and Whitchurch.
Of these castles Ludlow stood next to Shrewsbury in importance, and
was fully its equal in strength, and far its superior in dimensions and
architectural display. It was, indeed, a superb Norman castle, the work of
Roger de Lacy, in the reign of Rufus, and before it Stephen was foiled and
very nearly captured in 1139. The rectangular keep, some of the mural
towers, and most of the lower part of the containing wall are original. The
curious circular chapel, though Norman, is rather later, and the magnificent
hall, kitchen, and lodgings are later still. The castle is built on the eastern
bank of the Lug, which here flows down a deep rocky ravine; the town also
was strongly walled. Cleobury, to the east of Ludlow, attributed to Roger de
Mortimer in 1074, is more probably the work of a later lord in the reign of
Stephen. It was taken by Henry II. in 1155. Wigmore, of which the castelry
is mentioned in “Domesday,” the chief seat of the great border family of
Mortimer, is actually in Herefordshire, but belongs to the Shropshire
edificatur in castro Salop corruit in terram tempore domini Uriani de St.
Petro tum vicecomitis et meremium ejusdem turris tempore suo et
temporibus aliorum vicecomitum preterea existencium ita consummatur et
destruitur quod nichil de illo remansit in magnum dampnum domini Regis
et deteracionem ejusdem castri.” Was this a wooden keep upon the mound?
“Quoddam Barbican” is also mentioned, and we are told the “dampnum
mote” amounted to 60 marcs, which damage the jurors do not attribute
altogether to the Abbot’s Mill, for thirty years earlier the mote of the castle
was injured. This can scarcely mean the ditch, for which “fossa” is the word
used. It is evidently the mound. The castle formed part of the town wall,
and occupied an angle of its area. Both castle and town were included
within the foldings of the deep and broad Severn, and indeed often needed
its protection.
In advance of Shrewsbury and placed along the most exposed border of
the county, and sometimes a little beyond it, were seventeen castles, all
strong and of early foundation, though not all of equal importance. Of these,
to the south, the principal were Cleobury, Ludlow, Richard’s Castle,
Wigmore, Knighton, and Knucklas or Heyhope, some within and others a
little to the outside of the dyke. To the west were Clun, Bishop’s Castle,
Montgomery, Cause, Abberbury, and Knockyn, and to the north Oswestry,
Whittington, Ellesmere, and Whitchurch.
Of these castles Ludlow stood next to Shrewsbury in importance, and
was fully its equal in strength, and far its superior in dimensions and
architectural display. It was, indeed, a superb Norman castle, the work of
Roger de Lacy, in the reign of Rufus, and before it Stephen was foiled and
very nearly captured in 1139. The rectangular keep, some of the mural
towers, and most of the lower part of the containing wall are original. The
curious circular chapel, though Norman, is rather later, and the magnificent
hall, kitchen, and lodgings are later still. The castle is built on the eastern
bank of the Lug, which here flows down a deep rocky ravine; the town also
was strongly walled. Cleobury, to the east of Ludlow, attributed to Roger de
Mortimer in 1074, is more probably the work of a later lord in the reign of
Stephen. It was taken by Henry II. in 1155. Wigmore, of which the castelry
is mentioned in “Domesday,” the chief seat of the great border family of
Mortimer, is actually in Herefordshire, but belongs to the Shropshire
Page 117
fortresses. It occupies a rocky ridge, defended by a natural ravine and steep
slopes. The small mound that bore its keep remains, and below is a Norman
tower, and more or less of ancient masonry. The outworks seem to have
been strong. Richard’s Castle, the Auretone of “Domesday,” founded by
Richard Fitz Scrob in the reign of the Confessor, though also in Hereford,
lies between Wigmore and Ludlow, and was closely associated with
Shropshire. It retains its ancient mound near the church, and a part of its
shell keep, and is still defended by a very formidable ditch. There is,
however, no masonry of the age of the Confessor, nor is it probable that the
keep was constructed before the reign of Stephen, if so early. Wigmore and
Richard’s Castle were the advanced posts of Ludlow. Cleobury Mortimer
was held by Ralph Mortimer at the Survey, and probably came to him from
the forfeiture of Earl Roger de Britolio. Knighton and Knucklas are on the
right bank of the Teme, just outside the Shropshire border. Their exposed
position made them very important posts. In 1180 Randulf Puher, Sheriff of
Herefordshire, accounted for the expenses of works at the castles of
Knighton and Camerino, and a little later, while employed in building a
border castle, he was slain by the Welsh. Of Knighton only the mound
remains. The masonry, now removed, has been attributed to one of the
Lords of Clun. Of Knucklas or Cnoclâs Castle there are scarcely any
vestiges. It was probably built by Roger Mortimer soon after the Conquest,
its mound, known as Castle Hill, being of course older. Clun Castle is three
miles within the dyke, but the intervening country is very rugged, and
exceedingly favourable to the operations of undisciplined troops such as the
Welsh. Clun was held under Earl Roger by Picot de Say, and became
afterwards the castle of Alan the son of Flaald, and the cradle of the House
of Stewart. There remains a rough but grand square keep, a mound, strong
circumscribing earthworks, and beyond the church an advanced bank and
ditch of formidable dimensions. It is evident that those who laid out these
earthworks were well aware of the peril of the position. Bishop’s Castle or
Lydbury is well within the frontier. It was the residence of the bishops of
Hereford from 1085 to 1154, and was taken by storm in 1235. By their
possession of this castle the bishops became Lords Marchers. Montgomery
was the centre and one of the most exposed castles of the frontier. It
occupied the summit of a steep rock, and was almost impregnable. It has,
however, been taken, destroyed, and re-built at least twice, so that little, if
slopes. The small mound that bore its keep remains, and below is a Norman
tower, and more or less of ancient masonry. The outworks seem to have
been strong. Richard’s Castle, the Auretone of “Domesday,” founded by
Richard Fitz Scrob in the reign of the Confessor, though also in Hereford,
lies between Wigmore and Ludlow, and was closely associated with
Shropshire. It retains its ancient mound near the church, and a part of its
shell keep, and is still defended by a very formidable ditch. There is,
however, no masonry of the age of the Confessor, nor is it probable that the
keep was constructed before the reign of Stephen, if so early. Wigmore and
Richard’s Castle were the advanced posts of Ludlow. Cleobury Mortimer
was held by Ralph Mortimer at the Survey, and probably came to him from
the forfeiture of Earl Roger de Britolio. Knighton and Knucklas are on the
right bank of the Teme, just outside the Shropshire border. Their exposed
position made them very important posts. In 1180 Randulf Puher, Sheriff of
Herefordshire, accounted for the expenses of works at the castles of
Knighton and Camerino, and a little later, while employed in building a
border castle, he was slain by the Welsh. Of Knighton only the mound
remains. The masonry, now removed, has been attributed to one of the
Lords of Clun. Of Knucklas or Cnoclâs Castle there are scarcely any
vestiges. It was probably built by Roger Mortimer soon after the Conquest,
its mound, known as Castle Hill, being of course older. Clun Castle is three
miles within the dyke, but the intervening country is very rugged, and
exceedingly favourable to the operations of undisciplined troops such as the
Welsh. Clun was held under Earl Roger by Picot de Say, and became
afterwards the castle of Alan the son of Flaald, and the cradle of the House
of Stewart. There remains a rough but grand square keep, a mound, strong
circumscribing earthworks, and beyond the church an advanced bank and
ditch of formidable dimensions. It is evident that those who laid out these
earthworks were well aware of the peril of the position. Bishop’s Castle or
Lydbury is well within the frontier. It was the residence of the bishops of
Hereford from 1085 to 1154, and was taken by storm in 1235. By their
possession of this castle the bishops became Lords Marchers. Montgomery
was the centre and one of the most exposed castles of the frontier. It
occupied the summit of a steep rock, and was almost impregnable. It has,
however, been taken, destroyed, and re-built at least twice, so that little, if
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any, of its masonry is of the time of Earl Roger. It stands just within the
dyke.
North of Montgomery, and protected by the well-known Long Mountain,
is Cause Castle or Alreton, the earliest seat of the Corbets, who named it
from the Pays de Caux, whence they came. It was built towards the close of
the reign of the Conqueror, and is remarkable for its massive keep and
capacious well, and for the rare example of the substitution of a Norman for
a native name. North of Cause is Abberbury, the seat of the Fitz Warines
before they held Whittington. It was held under Cause. Knockin Castle, the
head of the Barony of Strange, was probably built by Guido le Strange in
the reign of Henry II. Far more exposed, and having the mountainous
ground of Denbigh in its front, is Oswestry, supposed by Mr. Eyton to be
the Castel Luare (L’Ouvre) of “Domesday,” the work of Rainald de
Ballieul, and long celebrated as a seat of the Earls of Arundel. It is now
reduced to a mound and the foundations of a keep. The outworks have been
levelled and built over by the encroaching town, and the ditches filled up.
The town walls are also removed. Very near to Oswestry is Whittington,
founded as a Norman work by William Peverel in 1138, but better known
from its later lords the Fitz Warines. This is the castle that defied the Welsh
in 1223, and the strength of which lay not only in its shell keep, towers, and
gatehouse, parts of all which remain, but in a curious arrangement of
outworks in earth, with several broad and deep ditches connected with a
morass, the limits of which may still be traced. The original mound, scarped
and enclosed like Bungay in a revetment wall by the Norman engineer, is a
good example of the manner in which those early fortifications were
adapted to the masonry of later times. Ellesmere is a Peveril castle, but was
held by the Welsh Princes as late as the reign of Henry III. Whitchurch was
founded probably by William de Warren, whose wife was stepdaughter to
the Conqueror. It was the Weston of “Domesday,” and by a singular
inversion became widely known afterwards as Blackmere. These complete
the outer line of defence of the Middle March.
Connected with these were a large number of other castles, mostly,
though not always, held by men of lesser rank and power. Wem, now
entirely destroyed, was founded by William Pantulf, holding under Earl
Roger. Middle Castle was held of the Fitz Alans by the Lords Strange, as
was Ruyton. At High Ercal is a moated mound, but whether masonry was
dyke.
North of Montgomery, and protected by the well-known Long Mountain,
is Cause Castle or Alreton, the earliest seat of the Corbets, who named it
from the Pays de Caux, whence they came. It was built towards the close of
the reign of the Conqueror, and is remarkable for its massive keep and
capacious well, and for the rare example of the substitution of a Norman for
a native name. North of Cause is Abberbury, the seat of the Fitz Warines
before they held Whittington. It was held under Cause. Knockin Castle, the
head of the Barony of Strange, was probably built by Guido le Strange in
the reign of Henry II. Far more exposed, and having the mountainous
ground of Denbigh in its front, is Oswestry, supposed by Mr. Eyton to be
the Castel Luare (L’Ouvre) of “Domesday,” the work of Rainald de
Ballieul, and long celebrated as a seat of the Earls of Arundel. It is now
reduced to a mound and the foundations of a keep. The outworks have been
levelled and built over by the encroaching town, and the ditches filled up.
The town walls are also removed. Very near to Oswestry is Whittington,
founded as a Norman work by William Peverel in 1138, but better known
from its later lords the Fitz Warines. This is the castle that defied the Welsh
in 1223, and the strength of which lay not only in its shell keep, towers, and
gatehouse, parts of all which remain, but in a curious arrangement of
outworks in earth, with several broad and deep ditches connected with a
morass, the limits of which may still be traced. The original mound, scarped
and enclosed like Bungay in a revetment wall by the Norman engineer, is a
good example of the manner in which those early fortifications were
adapted to the masonry of later times. Ellesmere is a Peveril castle, but was
held by the Welsh Princes as late as the reign of Henry III. Whitchurch was
founded probably by William de Warren, whose wife was stepdaughter to
the Conqueror. It was the Weston of “Domesday,” and by a singular
inversion became widely known afterwards as Blackmere. These complete
the outer line of defence of the Middle March.
Connected with these were a large number of other castles, mostly,
though not always, held by men of lesser rank and power. Wem, now
entirely destroyed, was founded by William Pantulf, holding under Earl
Roger. Middle Castle was held of the Fitz Alans by the Lords Strange, as
was Ruyton. At High Ercal is a moated mound, but whether masonry was
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ever added to it is doubtful. Srawrthin or Sharwardine had a castle,
probably before 1165. There seem also to have been castles at Charlton,
Howgate, Braincroft, Corshall, Shipton, Ryton, and Le Botwood.
Pulverbach was the castle of Robert Venator in the eleventh century. Tonge
was Earl Roger’s private demesne, but the castle achieved its fame under
the Pembrugge family. Church Stretton or Brockhurst Castle was held direct
by the Crown, but was demolished at an early period. At Broymeron, near
Tugford, there seems to have been a castle. Corfham was held by Fitz
Ponce, the ancestor of the Cliffords. Wattlesborough, an early Corbet castle,
still preserves a small but tolerably perfect rectangular keep. Stone has
some traces of a castle, and at Hopton is a square keep of Decorated date,
on a slightly raised knoll, with some extensive and marshy outworks.
Besides these may be mentioned Castle Holgate, thought by Mr. Eyton to
be one of the four earliest castles built under Earl Roger, the others being
Shrewsbury, Montgomery, and Oswestry, all in some shape of earlier date
than the great Survey. Holgate was built by Helgot de Stanton, and used by
Henry II. in 1109. Bryn Castle was an early seat of the Gerards; Bromfield
and Cainham are destroyed; of Shiffnall little is known; Stottesden was
granted in 1159 by Henry II. to Godfrey de Gamaches or Gamage; Stokesay
is said originally to have been built by Picot le Say; Tirley, near Market
Drayton, was the work of Roger de Corcelle, but taken by Ralph le Botiler
of Wem, who left it unfinished in 1281. The Fitz Alans seem to have had a
castle at Wroxeter, the Lords Strange at Cheswardine, and at Morton Soret,
now Corbet, the Sorets built a castle. West of Ludlow was a castle at
Stapleton-en-le-Harness, built probably by the lords of Richard’s Castle.
Kinnerley Castle, taken by Llewelyn in 1223, has long since disappeared.
Alveton was held by Theobald de Verdon in 1389.
Robert de Belesme, the son of Roger and the third Earl of Shrewsbury,
built two castles which played a part in the struggles of the time, and are
mentioned by historians. One, Carregchova, was in advance of the frontier,
and in Montgomery. It is said to have been built about 1101–2 in great
haste. In 1160 it was held and garrisoned by Henry II. It has long been
utterly destroyed. The other, Bruges or Bridgenorth Castle, was upon the
Severn below and inland of Shrewsbury. Earl Roger had built a castle not
far off upon the ancient earthworks of Quatford, opposite to Oldbury, one of
the burhs thrown up by Queen Æthelflæda. This castle, of which there
remain a mound and a deep well, Earl Robert removed in 1102 to the top of
probably before 1165. There seem also to have been castles at Charlton,
Howgate, Braincroft, Corshall, Shipton, Ryton, and Le Botwood.
Pulverbach was the castle of Robert Venator in the eleventh century. Tonge
was Earl Roger’s private demesne, but the castle achieved its fame under
the Pembrugge family. Church Stretton or Brockhurst Castle was held direct
by the Crown, but was demolished at an early period. At Broymeron, near
Tugford, there seems to have been a castle. Corfham was held by Fitz
Ponce, the ancestor of the Cliffords. Wattlesborough, an early Corbet castle,
still preserves a small but tolerably perfect rectangular keep. Stone has
some traces of a castle, and at Hopton is a square keep of Decorated date,
on a slightly raised knoll, with some extensive and marshy outworks.
Besides these may be mentioned Castle Holgate, thought by Mr. Eyton to
be one of the four earliest castles built under Earl Roger, the others being
Shrewsbury, Montgomery, and Oswestry, all in some shape of earlier date
than the great Survey. Holgate was built by Helgot de Stanton, and used by
Henry II. in 1109. Bryn Castle was an early seat of the Gerards; Bromfield
and Cainham are destroyed; of Shiffnall little is known; Stottesden was
granted in 1159 by Henry II. to Godfrey de Gamaches or Gamage; Stokesay
is said originally to have been built by Picot le Say; Tirley, near Market
Drayton, was the work of Roger de Corcelle, but taken by Ralph le Botiler
of Wem, who left it unfinished in 1281. The Fitz Alans seem to have had a
castle at Wroxeter, the Lords Strange at Cheswardine, and at Morton Soret,
now Corbet, the Sorets built a castle. West of Ludlow was a castle at
Stapleton-en-le-Harness, built probably by the lords of Richard’s Castle.
Kinnerley Castle, taken by Llewelyn in 1223, has long since disappeared.
Alveton was held by Theobald de Verdon in 1389.
Robert de Belesme, the son of Roger and the third Earl of Shrewsbury,
built two castles which played a part in the struggles of the time, and are
mentioned by historians. One, Carregchova, was in advance of the frontier,
and in Montgomery. It is said to have been built about 1101–2 in great
haste. In 1160 it was held and garrisoned by Henry II. It has long been
utterly destroyed. The other, Bruges or Bridgenorth Castle, was upon the
Severn below and inland of Shrewsbury. Earl Roger had built a castle not
far off upon the ancient earthworks of Quatford, opposite to Oldbury, one of
the burhs thrown up by Queen Æthelflæda. This castle, of which there
remain a mound and a deep well, Earl Robert removed in 1102 to the top of
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a steep rocky platform above the Severn. It was strong and spacious, and
had the church of St. Mary Magdalen for its chapel, and within its area
accommodation for some thousands of men. Of all this there remains now
little save a fragment of the keep and parts of the containing wall. It was
besieged by Henry II. in 1155, and was surrendered for political rather than
for military reasons.
In advance of the borders of Shropshire are two or three castles of
doubtful origin, and which were frequently held by the Welsh. Such were
Powis or Pool Castle, attributed to Bleddyn ap Cynfin about 1109;
Mathraval, on the Vyrnwy, the residence of the Welsh Princes, but fortified
by Robert de Vipont. This was one of the few local castles that resisted the
Welsh outbreak of 1212, soon after which it was destroyed. Dolforwin is a
small hill-castle on the left bank of the Upper Severn, much resembling
Dinas Brân, and far to the west. Deep in the defiles upon the western flank
of Cader Idris is the castle of Bere, the remains of which fell into the
friendly hands of the late Mr. Wynn of Peniarth, who has shown that the
building was of the Early English period of architecture, and unusually
ornate in its details. How an early castle came to be placed so far from the
border, and in a position by no means abounding in the means of
subsistence, is a mystery.
The plain of the Upper Severn, open and fertile, outside the Shropshire
border, was contested from a very remote period between the Mercians and
the Welsh, and was at times completely and permanently occupied by the
former. The Mercian fortresses of this very perilous district were moated
mounds similar to those thrown up in England in the ninth and tenth
centuries. Of these there are very many along the course of the river or in its
tributary valleys, of which the chief are Keri, Hên-domen near
Montgomery, Nantcribba a fortified natural knoll, Guilsfield, a burh at
Chirbury thrown up by Æthelflæda and now removed, Welsh Pool
designated in 1299 as Mota de Pola, a mound on the Luggy, Winsbury,
Dudston, Brynderwen, several mounds about Llanidloes and Moat-lane,
Tafolwern, a fine mound upon the junction of two streams with the Afon
Lwymyn, and whence some of the charters of the Welsh Princes are dated,
and a remarkable mound at Talybont near Towyn, whence Llewelyn dated a
letter to the Archbishop of Canterbury, and which was visited by Edward I.
Very few of these “Mottes” were surmounted by works in masonry, and the
had the church of St. Mary Magdalen for its chapel, and within its area
accommodation for some thousands of men. Of all this there remains now
little save a fragment of the keep and parts of the containing wall. It was
besieged by Henry II. in 1155, and was surrendered for political rather than
for military reasons.
In advance of the borders of Shropshire are two or three castles of
doubtful origin, and which were frequently held by the Welsh. Such were
Powis or Pool Castle, attributed to Bleddyn ap Cynfin about 1109;
Mathraval, on the Vyrnwy, the residence of the Welsh Princes, but fortified
by Robert de Vipont. This was one of the few local castles that resisted the
Welsh outbreak of 1212, soon after which it was destroyed. Dolforwin is a
small hill-castle on the left bank of the Upper Severn, much resembling
Dinas Brân, and far to the west. Deep in the defiles upon the western flank
of Cader Idris is the castle of Bere, the remains of which fell into the
friendly hands of the late Mr. Wynn of Peniarth, who has shown that the
building was of the Early English period of architecture, and unusually
ornate in its details. How an early castle came to be placed so far from the
border, and in a position by no means abounding in the means of
subsistence, is a mystery.
The plain of the Upper Severn, open and fertile, outside the Shropshire
border, was contested from a very remote period between the Mercians and
the Welsh, and was at times completely and permanently occupied by the
former. The Mercian fortresses of this very perilous district were moated
mounds similar to those thrown up in England in the ninth and tenth
centuries. Of these there are very many along the course of the river or in its
tributary valleys, of which the chief are Keri, Hên-domen near
Montgomery, Nantcribba a fortified natural knoll, Guilsfield, a burh at
Chirbury thrown up by Æthelflæda and now removed, Welsh Pool
designated in 1299 as Mota de Pola, a mound on the Luggy, Winsbury,
Dudston, Brynderwen, several mounds about Llanidloes and Moat-lane,
Tafolwern, a fine mound upon the junction of two streams with the Afon
Lwymyn, and whence some of the charters of the Welsh Princes are dated,
and a remarkable mound at Talybont near Towyn, whence Llewelyn dated a
letter to the Archbishop of Canterbury, and which was visited by Edward I.
Very few of these “Mottes” were surmounted by works in masonry, and the
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accompanying extract from the Close Roll shows that even as late as the
reign of Henry III. timber was the recognised material for their defences:—
“Rex etc dilecto et fideli suo Godescallo de Maghelins salutem.
Recipimus tibi quod ex parte nostra firmiter precipias omnibus illis qui
motas habent in valle de Muntgumery quod sine dilatione motas suas bonis
bretaschiis firmari faciant ad securitatem et defensionem suam et parcium
illarum. Teste Rege apud Weston xxx die maii, 9 H iii, 1225.” (Close Roll.)
The Brut y Tysogion says that the castles of Llandwnyl, Trevuverw, and
Cynfig were begun in 1092 to be built stronger than before; for before that
time castles were of wood, and before long the Frenchmen had built their
castles over the whole country. Although it is evident that the moated
mound was an English and not a Welsh fortification, yet many of these
mounds are found in situations where no English household could have
lived, and others, like Tafolwern and Talybont, are known to have been
Welsh residences, so that it would seem that the Welsh, finding this form of
fortification both simple and strong, easily thrown up, and when burned
easy to repair, had recourse to it in imitation of their foes. Almost all the
castles in Shropshire on the border were held of Earl Roger, or some Lord
Marcher by the tenure of castle guard, and many of the lesser castles had
lands attached to them held by the same honourable service. The usual
condition was attendance upon the lord in time of war, armed, for a period
of forty days, or an engagement to defend and sometimes to repair a
particular part of the lord’s castle. Lord Coke indeed speaks of tenure by
castle guard as always attached to some specific part of a castle. The manor
of Hodnet was held by the service of seneschal, and in war by attendance in
the outer bailey of Shrewsbury Castle. The inquest on William de Bollers in
1299 shows that he held a tenement in Mariton by the tenure of providing
one soldier in war time at the Mote of Poole with a bow and arrow and a
bolt for a night and a day. Mr. Eyton takes the Mote of Pool to be Powis
Castle, but may it not more probably be the mote which is seen, or was
recently to be seen, near the Welshpool railway station? In an old map in
1610 this mound is lettered, “Domine Castell,” and a mill near it the Domen
(Tomen, Tumulus, Tump) Mill.
The Southern, commonly called the Western March, from its extension in
that direction, included the counties of Radnor, Hereford, and Monmouth,
the eastern part of Brecknock, much of Caermarthen and Cardigan,
reign of Henry III. timber was the recognised material for their defences:—
“Rex etc dilecto et fideli suo Godescallo de Maghelins salutem.
Recipimus tibi quod ex parte nostra firmiter precipias omnibus illis qui
motas habent in valle de Muntgumery quod sine dilatione motas suas bonis
bretaschiis firmari faciant ad securitatem et defensionem suam et parcium
illarum. Teste Rege apud Weston xxx die maii, 9 H iii, 1225.” (Close Roll.)
The Brut y Tysogion says that the castles of Llandwnyl, Trevuverw, and
Cynfig were begun in 1092 to be built stronger than before; for before that
time castles were of wood, and before long the Frenchmen had built their
castles over the whole country. Although it is evident that the moated
mound was an English and not a Welsh fortification, yet many of these
mounds are found in situations where no English household could have
lived, and others, like Tafolwern and Talybont, are known to have been
Welsh residences, so that it would seem that the Welsh, finding this form of
fortification both simple and strong, easily thrown up, and when burned
easy to repair, had recourse to it in imitation of their foes. Almost all the
castles in Shropshire on the border were held of Earl Roger, or some Lord
Marcher by the tenure of castle guard, and many of the lesser castles had
lands attached to them held by the same honourable service. The usual
condition was attendance upon the lord in time of war, armed, for a period
of forty days, or an engagement to defend and sometimes to repair a
particular part of the lord’s castle. Lord Coke indeed speaks of tenure by
castle guard as always attached to some specific part of a castle. The manor
of Hodnet was held by the service of seneschal, and in war by attendance in
the outer bailey of Shrewsbury Castle. The inquest on William de Bollers in
1299 shows that he held a tenement in Mariton by the tenure of providing
one soldier in war time at the Mote of Poole with a bow and arrow and a
bolt for a night and a day. Mr. Eyton takes the Mote of Pool to be Powis
Castle, but may it not more probably be the mote which is seen, or was
recently to be seen, near the Welshpool railway station? In an old map in
1610 this mound is lettered, “Domine Castell,” and a mill near it the Domen
(Tomen, Tumulus, Tump) Mill.
The Southern, commonly called the Western March, from its extension in
that direction, included the counties of Radnor, Hereford, and Monmouth,
the eastern part of Brecknock, much of Caermarthen and Cardigan,
Page 122
Pembroke and the whole of Glamorgan; that is to say, the country from the
Teme to the Bristol Channel, and the whole seaboard of South Wales from
Chepstow to Aberystwith, all which territory was thickly set with castles,
the footprints of the Norman, and before him to some extent of the
Englishman.
Included in South Wales, but in a military point of view more connected
with Shropshire and the Middle March, was the county of Radnor. This was
a mountainous tract, very Welsh, and but a small strip of which was on the
English side of the dyke, but the imminence of the danger seems to have led
to great encroachments upon the Welsh territory, and to the establishment of
a considerable number of castles along the lines specially exposed to attack.
Knighton, the chief castle of Radnor, and Knucklas, both upon the Teme
and bordering Shropshire, have been mentioned. South of Knighton was
Norton, and again south Old Radnor, Cruker or Pen-y-Craig destroyed by
Rhys ap Griffith in the reign of King John, and New Radnor, of which there
remains a large mound with concentric entrenchments, and parts of the
walls of the town are still to be seen. The castle is said to have been
founded by Harold in 1064. Pains Castle or Llanbedr, in Elvet, near the
southern border of the county, was so called from Pagan or Payne de
Cadurces, Cahors, or Chaworth, Lord of Kidwelly, who built it about 1130,
possibly to secure his passage into Caermarthenshire. A few fragments of
masonry still remain. Pains Castle was taken by Rhys in 1196, and
subsequently besieged by Gwenwynwyn, Prince of Powis, in 1198. Near to
Pains Castle, on the left bank of the Wye, was Boughrood Castle, said to
have been held by Eineon Clydd in 1140. Fragments of its masonry long
remained visible. The passage of the Wye is commanded in this district by
the strong castle of Builth. Just outside the county and higher up the river,
which here divides Radnor from Brecknock, was Aberedw Castle, built by
Ralph de Baskerville, one of the Norman invaders, but speedily taken and
held by the Welsh. Still higher up is Rhyader-Gwy, founded it is said by
Prince Rhys in the twelfth century, but better known as a castle of the
Mortimers. It was taken by assault by the Welsh in the reign of Henry III.
The outline of the works may still be traced. Nearer the centre of the county,
upon the Ython and the Aran, were other castles. Moelynaidd and Castell
Colwyn or Mauds Castle, fortified by the Earl of Chester in 1143, were on
the former river, and near them was Cefn-Lys or Castell-glyn-Ython, a
Teme to the Bristol Channel, and the whole seaboard of South Wales from
Chepstow to Aberystwith, all which territory was thickly set with castles,
the footprints of the Norman, and before him to some extent of the
Englishman.
Included in South Wales, but in a military point of view more connected
with Shropshire and the Middle March, was the county of Radnor. This was
a mountainous tract, very Welsh, and but a small strip of which was on the
English side of the dyke, but the imminence of the danger seems to have led
to great encroachments upon the Welsh territory, and to the establishment of
a considerable number of castles along the lines specially exposed to attack.
Knighton, the chief castle of Radnor, and Knucklas, both upon the Teme
and bordering Shropshire, have been mentioned. South of Knighton was
Norton, and again south Old Radnor, Cruker or Pen-y-Craig destroyed by
Rhys ap Griffith in the reign of King John, and New Radnor, of which there
remains a large mound with concentric entrenchments, and parts of the
walls of the town are still to be seen. The castle is said to have been
founded by Harold in 1064. Pains Castle or Llanbedr, in Elvet, near the
southern border of the county, was so called from Pagan or Payne de
Cadurces, Cahors, or Chaworth, Lord of Kidwelly, who built it about 1130,
possibly to secure his passage into Caermarthenshire. A few fragments of
masonry still remain. Pains Castle was taken by Rhys in 1196, and
subsequently besieged by Gwenwynwyn, Prince of Powis, in 1198. Near to
Pains Castle, on the left bank of the Wye, was Boughrood Castle, said to
have been held by Eineon Clydd in 1140. Fragments of its masonry long
remained visible. The passage of the Wye is commanded in this district by
the strong castle of Builth. Just outside the county and higher up the river,
which here divides Radnor from Brecknock, was Aberedw Castle, built by
Ralph de Baskerville, one of the Norman invaders, but speedily taken and
held by the Welsh. Still higher up is Rhyader-Gwy, founded it is said by
Prince Rhys in the twelfth century, but better known as a castle of the
Mortimers. It was taken by assault by the Welsh in the reign of Henry III.
The outline of the works may still be traced. Nearer the centre of the county,
upon the Ython and the Aran, were other castles. Moelynaidd and Castell
Colwyn or Mauds Castle, fortified by the Earl of Chester in 1143, were on
the former river, and near them was Cefn-Lys or Castell-glyn-Ython, a
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rather celebrated Norman castle, but often taken by the Welsh. It was held
latterly by the Mortimers, and rebuilt by them in 1142. Dwybod Timpath or
Tilloedd, also on the Ython, was a place of great strength of which many
fragments of masonry remain. The name has been said to be a corruption of
Talbot. This castle was levelled by Llewellyn in 1260. Cwm Aron, on the
Aron river, was an early Norman castle, destroyed by the Welsh and
restored by Hugh Earl of Chester in 1143. This also came to the Mortimers.
There are considerable remains of the earthworks. Near to Presteign were
Warden and Stapleton Castles, the latter built by Chandos the founder of
Goldcliff Priory. There was also a castle at Clyro, and one upon the Lug at
Castell Haled or Vallet; and at Clâs Cwm on the Arrow is some masonry
said to represent Brynllys Castle.
The remaining parts of South and West Wales containing much open and
tolerably fertile land, and having a long and exposed frontier towards the
purely Welsh districts of Brecknock, Caermarthen and Cardigan, were the
scene of perpetual inbreaks from the Welsh, and required more than usual
strength in the defences. The castle of Gloucester, already mentioned, was
the base of all extended operations in South Wales. Here the kings of
England often held their court, and here their troops were mustered.
Brichtric had a castle at Gloucester, but his mound has long been removed,
and with it all traces of the Norman building.
Next to Gloucester in strength and importance and far more exposed
came Hereford, strongly posted on the Wye, and surrounded by a very
fertile territory. Unlike most other cities Hereford is of purely English
foundation, though by whom founded is not precisely clear. It was fortified
by Harold, and probably received the Norman additions to its castle from
Osborne soon after the Conquest. The castle was attacked by Edric the Wild
in 1067. Part of the defences of the city remain, and of those of the castle an
immense bank and deep wet ditch, now in part being filled up, and formerly
communicating with the river Wye. The keep stood upon a large mound
now levelled. Herefordshire contained many castles, mostly, however,
intended for the protection of private estates, and placed accordingly.
Goderich on the Wye is one of the chief. It is large, well built, protected by
the river, and has a small but early rectangular keep. It was long held by the
Talbots. Ewias Harold and Kilpeck commanded from either side the valley
of Irchenfield. Both were strong and had shell keeps built upon mounds of
latterly by the Mortimers, and rebuilt by them in 1142. Dwybod Timpath or
Tilloedd, also on the Ython, was a place of great strength of which many
fragments of masonry remain. The name has been said to be a corruption of
Talbot. This castle was levelled by Llewellyn in 1260. Cwm Aron, on the
Aron river, was an early Norman castle, destroyed by the Welsh and
restored by Hugh Earl of Chester in 1143. This also came to the Mortimers.
There are considerable remains of the earthworks. Near to Presteign were
Warden and Stapleton Castles, the latter built by Chandos the founder of
Goldcliff Priory. There was also a castle at Clyro, and one upon the Lug at
Castell Haled or Vallet; and at Clâs Cwm on the Arrow is some masonry
said to represent Brynllys Castle.
The remaining parts of South and West Wales containing much open and
tolerably fertile land, and having a long and exposed frontier towards the
purely Welsh districts of Brecknock, Caermarthen and Cardigan, were the
scene of perpetual inbreaks from the Welsh, and required more than usual
strength in the defences. The castle of Gloucester, already mentioned, was
the base of all extended operations in South Wales. Here the kings of
England often held their court, and here their troops were mustered.
Brichtric had a castle at Gloucester, but his mound has long been removed,
and with it all traces of the Norman building.
Next to Gloucester in strength and importance and far more exposed
came Hereford, strongly posted on the Wye, and surrounded by a very
fertile territory. Unlike most other cities Hereford is of purely English
foundation, though by whom founded is not precisely clear. It was fortified
by Harold, and probably received the Norman additions to its castle from
Osborne soon after the Conquest. The castle was attacked by Edric the Wild
in 1067. Part of the defences of the city remain, and of those of the castle an
immense bank and deep wet ditch, now in part being filled up, and formerly
communicating with the river Wye. The keep stood upon a large mound
now levelled. Herefordshire contained many castles, mostly, however,
intended for the protection of private estates, and placed accordingly.
Goderich on the Wye is one of the chief. It is large, well built, protected by
the river, and has a small but early rectangular keep. It was long held by the
Talbots. Ewias Harold and Kilpeck commanded from either side the valley
of Irchenfield. Both were strong and had shell keeps built upon mounds of
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large size. Of Kilpeck parts of the wall remain, and a small Norman church.
In 1134 Hugh, son of William Norman, gave to Gloucester Abbey the
church of St. David at Kilpeck and the chapel of St. Mary in the castle.
Ewias was a stronger place, but nearly all the masonry is now gone. The
Harold from whom it derives its distinctive name was an English proprietor
before the Conquest. Of the lesser castles were Croft, for centuries the seat
of a still extant family of that name; Lingen, an early castle built by Turstine
de Wigmore; Lyonshall, an early D’Evereux castle; Kingston, of which no
trace remains; Almley, reduced to its original mound; Kingsland, reputed a
Saxon seat; Weobley, a De Lacy castle in the reign of Stephen; Castle
Frome, also built by the Lacys, and now a mound only. Asperton, a
Grandison castle built on the edge of the Roman way, is now destroyed, as
are Ellington and Mortimer’s Castle at Much Marcle. Of Huntingdon, on
the Radnor border, a De Braose castle, the mound remains, as of Eardisley,
called in “Domesday” a “domus defensabilis.” Cubbington was a castle of
the De la Fields, and Bredwardine of a family of that name who gave place
to the Baskervilles. Whitney Castle stood on the Wye, as a little higher up
did Clifford, of which the masonry was the work of Ralph de Todeni and his
successor Fitz Pons, ancestor of the great house of Clifford, who hence
derived their name. The Castelry of Clifford was held at “Domesday” by
Roger de Lacy. Wilton Castle on the Wye, the seat of a well-known barony,
was built by Longchamp in the reign of Henry I., and of that age were
Pembridge and probably Tretire, a Fitz Warine castle now destroyed.
Besides these there are others of which less is known; Longtown or Ewias
Lacy, built in part of Roman material; Snodhill, probably Norman; Twyford,
and Urishay in Peterchurch, a De la Hay work; Eccleswall and Castle
Comfort reduced to their mounds; the bank and ditches of the latter seen on
a hill-side half a mile from Leominster, are the reputed remains of the
palace of Werewald, King of Mercia, late in the seventh century. Mention is
also made of Mouse Castle, near Hay; Dorston, a Soler’s castle; Cusop, a
mere tower; Bransil, on the Worcestershire border, now a ruin; Kinnersley;
Eaton Tregoz, a Baskerville seat in 1251; Moccas, of which the moat
remains; and Penyard, probably Norman. It is to be remembered that most
of the castles in masonry in Hereford and Radnor were built upon
earthworks of far earlier date.
Brecknock, though a wild and mountainous and therefore strongly Welsh
county, is penetrated both by the Usk and in some measure by the Wye, of
In 1134 Hugh, son of William Norman, gave to Gloucester Abbey the
church of St. David at Kilpeck and the chapel of St. Mary in the castle.
Ewias was a stronger place, but nearly all the masonry is now gone. The
Harold from whom it derives its distinctive name was an English proprietor
before the Conquest. Of the lesser castles were Croft, for centuries the seat
of a still extant family of that name; Lingen, an early castle built by Turstine
de Wigmore; Lyonshall, an early D’Evereux castle; Kingston, of which no
trace remains; Almley, reduced to its original mound; Kingsland, reputed a
Saxon seat; Weobley, a De Lacy castle in the reign of Stephen; Castle
Frome, also built by the Lacys, and now a mound only. Asperton, a
Grandison castle built on the edge of the Roman way, is now destroyed, as
are Ellington and Mortimer’s Castle at Much Marcle. Of Huntingdon, on
the Radnor border, a De Braose castle, the mound remains, as of Eardisley,
called in “Domesday” a “domus defensabilis.” Cubbington was a castle of
the De la Fields, and Bredwardine of a family of that name who gave place
to the Baskervilles. Whitney Castle stood on the Wye, as a little higher up
did Clifford, of which the masonry was the work of Ralph de Todeni and his
successor Fitz Pons, ancestor of the great house of Clifford, who hence
derived their name. The Castelry of Clifford was held at “Domesday” by
Roger de Lacy. Wilton Castle on the Wye, the seat of a well-known barony,
was built by Longchamp in the reign of Henry I., and of that age were
Pembridge and probably Tretire, a Fitz Warine castle now destroyed.
Besides these there are others of which less is known; Longtown or Ewias
Lacy, built in part of Roman material; Snodhill, probably Norman; Twyford,
and Urishay in Peterchurch, a De la Hay work; Eccleswall and Castle
Comfort reduced to their mounds; the bank and ditches of the latter seen on
a hill-side half a mile from Leominster, are the reputed remains of the
palace of Werewald, King of Mercia, late in the seventh century. Mention is
also made of Mouse Castle, near Hay; Dorston, a Soler’s castle; Cusop, a
mere tower; Bransil, on the Worcestershire border, now a ruin; Kinnersley;
Eaton Tregoz, a Baskerville seat in 1251; Moccas, of which the moat
remains; and Penyard, probably Norman. It is to be remembered that most
of the castles in masonry in Hereford and Radnor were built upon
earthworks of far earlier date.
Brecknock, though a wild and mountainous and therefore strongly Welsh
county, is penetrated both by the Usk and in some measure by the Wye, of
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which Bernard Newmarch and his invading followers well knew how to
take advantage. The castles on the Wye being common to Radnor and
Brecknock, have duly been enumerated. The strongest of them all, Builth,
which played an important part in the local wars, was held by the Barons de
Braose, the successors of Newmarch. Of masonry there remains but little,
but the mound and annexed ditches and platforms are of a very formidable
character, and justify the reputation of the fortress for strength.
Builth was placed near the junction of the Yrfon with the Wye, and thus
commanded the entrance of an important pass leading into Caermarthen. It
was, however, by the Usk that Bernard Newmarch marched in 1096 against
Bleddyn ap Maenarch, and it was at Brecknock, not far from the Roman
Bannium, that he established the strong and spacious castle of which the
earlier mound and much of the masonry can still be seen. The possession of
Brecknock, Builth, and Abergavenny castles secured the district, which
Newmarch parcelled out among about fifteen of his chief followers, some
of whom built castles which they continued to hold under his son-in-law,
Milo Earl of Hereford, and their successors the Barons de Braose and
Cantelupe. Next above Abergavenny was Crickhowell, of which the mound,
ditches, and a tower remain. This was the castle of the Turbervilles. Near it
is Tretower, an early and very curious structure, where a rectangular keep
has been gutted and an early English round tower erected in its centre.
Tretower stands in the marshes of the Rhiangol, higher up which stream is
Dinas, a hill castle now in ruins, in form much resembling Morlais in
Glamorgan, and commanding the pass from Abergavenny to Talgarth and
the Wye. Higher up the Wye, upon a pass by which the road cuts off an
inaccessible bend of the river, was Blaenllyfni, a large and strong castle
usually held by the chief lord himself. Near it towards Brecknock was
Pencelli Castle. At Devynock was the tower of Rhyd-yr-Briew, and some
miles above Brecknock, near the head of the Usk, a tower at Trecastle, of
which the mound remains, was placed at the summit of the regular road
between Brecknock and Caermarthen. On the Honddu above Brecknock
was Castell Madoc, probably a Welsh fortress, and on the Llyfni between
Brecknock and Hereford the Peel of Talgarth and the very remarkable
cylindrical tower of Bronllys. The remains of the castle of Hay stand upon
the Wye at the north-eastern angle of the county. It was built by Sir Philip
Walwyn, destroyed by Henry III. in 1231, and probably rebuilt soon
take advantage. The castles on the Wye being common to Radnor and
Brecknock, have duly been enumerated. The strongest of them all, Builth,
which played an important part in the local wars, was held by the Barons de
Braose, the successors of Newmarch. Of masonry there remains but little,
but the mound and annexed ditches and platforms are of a very formidable
character, and justify the reputation of the fortress for strength.
Builth was placed near the junction of the Yrfon with the Wye, and thus
commanded the entrance of an important pass leading into Caermarthen. It
was, however, by the Usk that Bernard Newmarch marched in 1096 against
Bleddyn ap Maenarch, and it was at Brecknock, not far from the Roman
Bannium, that he established the strong and spacious castle of which the
earlier mound and much of the masonry can still be seen. The possession of
Brecknock, Builth, and Abergavenny castles secured the district, which
Newmarch parcelled out among about fifteen of his chief followers, some
of whom built castles which they continued to hold under his son-in-law,
Milo Earl of Hereford, and their successors the Barons de Braose and
Cantelupe. Next above Abergavenny was Crickhowell, of which the mound,
ditches, and a tower remain. This was the castle of the Turbervilles. Near it
is Tretower, an early and very curious structure, where a rectangular keep
has been gutted and an early English round tower erected in its centre.
Tretower stands in the marshes of the Rhiangol, higher up which stream is
Dinas, a hill castle now in ruins, in form much resembling Morlais in
Glamorgan, and commanding the pass from Abergavenny to Talgarth and
the Wye. Higher up the Wye, upon a pass by which the road cuts off an
inaccessible bend of the river, was Blaenllyfni, a large and strong castle
usually held by the chief lord himself. Near it towards Brecknock was
Pencelli Castle. At Devynock was the tower of Rhyd-yr-Briew, and some
miles above Brecknock, near the head of the Usk, a tower at Trecastle, of
which the mound remains, was placed at the summit of the regular road
between Brecknock and Caermarthen. On the Honddu above Brecknock
was Castell Madoc, probably a Welsh fortress, and on the Llyfni between
Brecknock and Hereford the Peel of Talgarth and the very remarkable
cylindrical tower of Bronllys. The remains of the castle of Hay stand upon
the Wye at the north-eastern angle of the county. It was built by Sir Philip
Walwyn, destroyed by Henry III. in 1231, and probably rebuilt soon
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afterwards. A part of it is still standing. The town was walled and had three
gates.
Besides these were Scethrog, the tower of Sir Miles Pichard; Burghill,
built by Sir Humphrey of that name; Langoed and some others, fortified
houses rather than castles, and of which in most cases nothing remains but
the moated mounds, only a few of which have been occupied by the
Normans.
Monmouthshire, though exposed to occasional inbreaks, was, in the
eleventh century, and especially after Harold’s Welsh war of 1063, as
completely a part of England as Hereford or the contiguous parts of
Gloucester. Its western border was the Rhymny, but by much its more
important part lay between two very deep and rapid rivers, the Wye and the
Usk, and upon each were posted formidable castles; those of Monmouth
and Chepstow upon the one river, and those of Newport, Usk, and
Abergavenny upon the other. Chepstow is placed upon a cliff on the
western or right bank of the river, evidently, like Newport, intended as a
“tête du pont” to cover the passage of troops, the river not being there
fordable. As the name imports, the settlement is of English origin, though
its Domesday designation, Estrighoil, corrupted into Striguil, is Welsh. The
castle is divided from the town by a deep ravine, and is altogether outside
the wall, which was unusual. The keep, of Norman masonry, may be the
work of William Fitz Osborne, Earl of Hereford, or at latest of Roger de
Britolio, his son and successor. As early as in the reign of Henry I.,
Chepstow had come into the possession of the De Clares of the Strongbow
line, often called Earls of Striguil. Its possession enabled the Mareschals,
successors to the De Clares, to hold their earldom against Henry III.
Monmouth Castle occupied the top of a promontory of rock between the
Wye and the Monnow, and was long held by a line of border barons to
whom it gave a name.
Upon the Usk, the old castle of Newport has long been replaced by a later
structure, but parts of Usk Castle, some miles higher up, are old, and
Abergavenny, which descended from De Braose through Cantelupe and
Hastings to the Nevilles, is still held by the chief of that family, though little
remains of it save the original mound. It was at Abergavenny Castle that
William de Braose slaughtered, in 1175, a number of unarmed Welshmen,
in revenge for the murder of his uncle, Henry of Hereford. Caerleon,
gates.
Besides these were Scethrog, the tower of Sir Miles Pichard; Burghill,
built by Sir Humphrey of that name; Langoed and some others, fortified
houses rather than castles, and of which in most cases nothing remains but
the moated mounds, only a few of which have been occupied by the
Normans.
Monmouthshire, though exposed to occasional inbreaks, was, in the
eleventh century, and especially after Harold’s Welsh war of 1063, as
completely a part of England as Hereford or the contiguous parts of
Gloucester. Its western border was the Rhymny, but by much its more
important part lay between two very deep and rapid rivers, the Wye and the
Usk, and upon each were posted formidable castles; those of Monmouth
and Chepstow upon the one river, and those of Newport, Usk, and
Abergavenny upon the other. Chepstow is placed upon a cliff on the
western or right bank of the river, evidently, like Newport, intended as a
“tête du pont” to cover the passage of troops, the river not being there
fordable. As the name imports, the settlement is of English origin, though
its Domesday designation, Estrighoil, corrupted into Striguil, is Welsh. The
castle is divided from the town by a deep ravine, and is altogether outside
the wall, which was unusual. The keep, of Norman masonry, may be the
work of William Fitz Osborne, Earl of Hereford, or at latest of Roger de
Britolio, his son and successor. As early as in the reign of Henry I.,
Chepstow had come into the possession of the De Clares of the Strongbow
line, often called Earls of Striguil. Its possession enabled the Mareschals,
successors to the De Clares, to hold their earldom against Henry III.
Monmouth Castle occupied the top of a promontory of rock between the
Wye and the Monnow, and was long held by a line of border barons to
whom it gave a name.
Upon the Usk, the old castle of Newport has long been replaced by a later
structure, but parts of Usk Castle, some miles higher up, are old, and
Abergavenny, which descended from De Braose through Cantelupe and
Hastings to the Nevilles, is still held by the chief of that family, though little
remains of it save the original mound. It was at Abergavenny Castle that
William de Braose slaughtered, in 1175, a number of unarmed Welshmen,
in revenge for the murder of his uncle, Henry of Hereford. Caerleon,
Page 127
between Newport and Usk, though founded by a Norman upon an earlier
English site connected with very celebrated Roman remains, was the
heritage of a Welsh family, and continued long in their occupation. Between
the Usk and the Wye the ground, in itself strong, was strongly occupied.
Upon the Monnow were placed Scenfrith and Grosmont, which with
Whitecastle formed the famous trilateral, so important in the war between
Henry III. and the Earl of Pembroke. The keep of Scenfrith is a round tower
of early date placed within a right-lined enclosure. Though small, it was
very strong, and its remains are tolerably perfect. Grosmont, also of early
date, is somewhat larger, and its remains are also considerable. White Castle
is an enormous shell of lofty walls and mural towers placed within a most
formidable ditch, beyond which are very extensive outworks both of
masonry and earth. It stands very high, commands a most extensive view,
and its defences are wholly artificial. All these three castles are reported to
have been originally Welsh seats; but their earthworks have an English
aspect. They were obviously intended for the general defence of the
country, and, as usual, were always in the hands of the great Lords or of the
Crown; there were besides several smaller castles or fortified houses, the
centre of private estates. Of these were the castles bordering the chase of
Wentwood: Dinham, long since a ruin; Penhow, the cradle of the House of
Seymour; Pencoed, which still retains some early masonry; Llanvair, built
by the Pain or Pagan family; and Castroggy, where is seen a part of the hall
and some other masonry. Upon the Ebbw, west of Newport, stood the small
castles of Greenfield and Rogeston, and at Castleton is a mound, said at one
time to have been accompanied by masonry. On the hill above Ruperra is a
very large and very perfect moated mound, but without any trace or
tradition of masonry. Llangibby is an old Monmouthshire castle.
The occupation by the Normans of the valleys of the Wye and the Usk no
doubt served to protect the exposed flank of Monmouthshire, but beyond
the Rhymny in Glamorgan this protection ceased, and the hill territory of
Glamorgan contained a native population ever ready to assist their
countrymen, who frequently invaded that Lordship from the north-west.
The Norman settlers all dwelt in the strip of open and more fertile land from
six to twelve miles in breadth that intervened, like the Concan of Western
India, between the mountains and the sea, where the remains of their castles
are placed so near together as to raise a question as to whence the
English site connected with very celebrated Roman remains, was the
heritage of a Welsh family, and continued long in their occupation. Between
the Usk and the Wye the ground, in itself strong, was strongly occupied.
Upon the Monnow were placed Scenfrith and Grosmont, which with
Whitecastle formed the famous trilateral, so important in the war between
Henry III. and the Earl of Pembroke. The keep of Scenfrith is a round tower
of early date placed within a right-lined enclosure. Though small, it was
very strong, and its remains are tolerably perfect. Grosmont, also of early
date, is somewhat larger, and its remains are also considerable. White Castle
is an enormous shell of lofty walls and mural towers placed within a most
formidable ditch, beyond which are very extensive outworks both of
masonry and earth. It stands very high, commands a most extensive view,
and its defences are wholly artificial. All these three castles are reported to
have been originally Welsh seats; but their earthworks have an English
aspect. They were obviously intended for the general defence of the
country, and, as usual, were always in the hands of the great Lords or of the
Crown; there were besides several smaller castles or fortified houses, the
centre of private estates. Of these were the castles bordering the chase of
Wentwood: Dinham, long since a ruin; Penhow, the cradle of the House of
Seymour; Pencoed, which still retains some early masonry; Llanvair, built
by the Pain or Pagan family; and Castroggy, where is seen a part of the hall
and some other masonry. Upon the Ebbw, west of Newport, stood the small
castles of Greenfield and Rogeston, and at Castleton is a mound, said at one
time to have been accompanied by masonry. On the hill above Ruperra is a
very large and very perfect moated mound, but without any trace or
tradition of masonry. Llangibby is an old Monmouthshire castle.
The occupation by the Normans of the valleys of the Wye and the Usk no
doubt served to protect the exposed flank of Monmouthshire, but beyond
the Rhymny in Glamorgan this protection ceased, and the hill territory of
Glamorgan contained a native population ever ready to assist their
countrymen, who frequently invaded that Lordship from the north-west.
The Norman settlers all dwelt in the strip of open and more fertile land from
six to twelve miles in breadth that intervened, like the Concan of Western
India, between the mountains and the sea, where the remains of their castles
are placed so near together as to raise a question as to whence the
Page 128
inhabitants derived their means of subsistence. The chief castle of the
Lordship was that of Cardiff on the Taff; but the lord also held castles at
Dinas Powis, Llantrissant, Kenfig, and by an early acquisition, at Neath, all
which may be presumed to have been intended for the general protection.
Cardiff, upon the “via maritima” of the Romans, is a very remarkable
fortification. It is rectangular, protected on three sides by a very high bank
and ditch, and on the fourth, towards the river, by a very strong wall. In one
corner at the river end is a large moated mound still bearing the Norman
keep, and which stood upon the line of a second wall now destroyed, by
which that end of the area was cut off and protected from the rest. The
analogy of this work with those of Tamworth, Wareham, and Wallingford,
and in some degree with Leicester, is remarkable. It also has some points of
resemblance to Hereford. Dinas Powis is a small oblong enclosure of the
type of Dinas Brân and Dolforwin, probably of Norman date. It occupies
the top of a rock in the gorge of a deep valley, and must have been strong
against any mere assault. Llantrissant Castle was of rather larger
dimensions. It stood, and indeed a fragment of it still stands, in a notch in
the hill high above the plain and many miles from the sea. Kenfig, which
stood upon a brook near the sea coast, has been completely swallowed up
by blown sand, “consumptum per sabulonem,” and only a fragment is now
visible. Neath, the most exposed castle in the whole county, was founded by
De Granville, said to be the brother of Robert Fitz Hamon. Save those of
the Lord the only castle in the Lordship held by a public functionary was
that of the Bishop at Llandaff, which seems to have been always a place of
strength, though the gatehouse and enclosing wall still remaining are
probably as late as the reign of Henry III. or Edward I.
Proceeding westward, the nearest castles to Cardiff were Sully and Barry,
held by families from whom the manors derived their names, as did
Bonvileston or Tre-Simon and its castle from Sir Simon de Bonville.
Penmark was the seat of the Umfravilles; Fonmon, with its rectangular
keep, of the St. Johns; Wrinston, of the De Reignys and Raleighs; Wenvoe,
of Le Fleming; and St. Fagan’s, of the Le Sore family. Of Peterston and St.
George’s there remain fragments of masonry. East Orchard, the seat of the
Berkerolles family, and Beaupré, of the Bassets, probably were originally
castles; but the one shows the ruins of a fortified house, the other of a
manor-house of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Part of Castleton
Castle is old; of Liege Castle there remains a light earthwork only.
Lordship was that of Cardiff on the Taff; but the lord also held castles at
Dinas Powis, Llantrissant, Kenfig, and by an early acquisition, at Neath, all
which may be presumed to have been intended for the general protection.
Cardiff, upon the “via maritima” of the Romans, is a very remarkable
fortification. It is rectangular, protected on three sides by a very high bank
and ditch, and on the fourth, towards the river, by a very strong wall. In one
corner at the river end is a large moated mound still bearing the Norman
keep, and which stood upon the line of a second wall now destroyed, by
which that end of the area was cut off and protected from the rest. The
analogy of this work with those of Tamworth, Wareham, and Wallingford,
and in some degree with Leicester, is remarkable. It also has some points of
resemblance to Hereford. Dinas Powis is a small oblong enclosure of the
type of Dinas Brân and Dolforwin, probably of Norman date. It occupies
the top of a rock in the gorge of a deep valley, and must have been strong
against any mere assault. Llantrissant Castle was of rather larger
dimensions. It stood, and indeed a fragment of it still stands, in a notch in
the hill high above the plain and many miles from the sea. Kenfig, which
stood upon a brook near the sea coast, has been completely swallowed up
by blown sand, “consumptum per sabulonem,” and only a fragment is now
visible. Neath, the most exposed castle in the whole county, was founded by
De Granville, said to be the brother of Robert Fitz Hamon. Save those of
the Lord the only castle in the Lordship held by a public functionary was
that of the Bishop at Llandaff, which seems to have been always a place of
strength, though the gatehouse and enclosing wall still remaining are
probably as late as the reign of Henry III. or Edward I.
Proceeding westward, the nearest castles to Cardiff were Sully and Barry,
held by families from whom the manors derived their names, as did
Bonvileston or Tre-Simon and its castle from Sir Simon de Bonville.
Penmark was the seat of the Umfravilles; Fonmon, with its rectangular
keep, of the St. Johns; Wrinston, of the De Reignys and Raleighs; Wenvoe,
of Le Fleming; and St. Fagan’s, of the Le Sore family. Of Peterston and St.
George’s there remain fragments of masonry. East Orchard, the seat of the
Berkerolles family, and Beaupré, of the Bassets, probably were originally
castles; but the one shows the ruins of a fortified house, the other of a
manor-house of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Part of Castleton
Castle is old; of Liege Castle there remains a light earthwork only.
Page 129
Llandough was built by the Welsh family, and Llanquian, a round tower, by
the De Wintons. Llanblethian Castle was the seat of the St. Quintins,
Talavan of the Siwards: at Penlline is a part of a rectangular keep with
herring-bone masonry, built by the Norrises. Cowbridge town was an
appanage of the chief Lord, and was walled and strongly fortified. St.
Donat’s, in its present form, is very late, and it is doubtful whether the
Haweys, the early lords, had a castle in this county. Part of Dunraven is old.
It was built by the Butlers, who held it under Ogmore. Ogmore, the chief
seat in this lordship of the De Londres, lords of Kidwelly, has a square
keep. It stands on the river whence it is named. Near it are the remains of a
small castle of the Cantelupes, known as Cantelupe’s-ton or Cantleston. At
Bridgend is a late Norman gateway, the entrance to a small walled
enclosure, also probably Norman. It bears the name of Newcastle. Near it is
Coyty, a famous Welsh seat, but built or rebuilt by the Turbervilles. The
buildings are considerable and tolerably perfect. The adjacent priory of
Ewenny was fortified. The Welsh Barons of Avan had a castle upon the
Avon river at Aberavan.
The Lordship of Cilvae extends from near the Neath to the Tawe, upon
which is posted the castle of Abertawe or Swansea, a structure remarkable
for its open parapet with a rampart wall above the arches, the work of
Bishop Gower. Swansea was the “caput” of Gower under the Earls of
Warwick and the De Braoses, and subsidiary to it were the castles of
Oystermouth, still standing, and Lwchwr on the Burry river, called the keys
of Gower. Lwchwr is now but a small square tower standing upon a small
mound connected with a large Roman camp. Within the peninsula are
Penrice, an early castle of that family with a good round keep, and in the
same parish, and near the church, a moated mound; Oxwich, a late building
of the Mansels, a good example of the transition from the castle to the
fortified house; Pennard, a quadrangular castle of the Edwardian type;
Weobley and Llanrhidian. At Scurlage and Llandewi were castles, and at
Llandimor. Mr. Freeman has remarked that twelve of the sixteen churches
of Gower have towers evidently built for defence. The exterior doors, where
they occur, are usually insertions. The low country beyond the Burry is
protected by Kidwelly, a tolerably perfect early castle built by the De
Londres family, and inherited from them by the Chaworths. It stands upon
the Gwendreath, and to its north is the strong castle of Carreg-Cennen. But
the real defence of Caermarthen is the river Towy, strengthened by the four
the De Wintons. Llanblethian Castle was the seat of the St. Quintins,
Talavan of the Siwards: at Penlline is a part of a rectangular keep with
herring-bone masonry, built by the Norrises. Cowbridge town was an
appanage of the chief Lord, and was walled and strongly fortified. St.
Donat’s, in its present form, is very late, and it is doubtful whether the
Haweys, the early lords, had a castle in this county. Part of Dunraven is old.
It was built by the Butlers, who held it under Ogmore. Ogmore, the chief
seat in this lordship of the De Londres, lords of Kidwelly, has a square
keep. It stands on the river whence it is named. Near it are the remains of a
small castle of the Cantelupes, known as Cantelupe’s-ton or Cantleston. At
Bridgend is a late Norman gateway, the entrance to a small walled
enclosure, also probably Norman. It bears the name of Newcastle. Near it is
Coyty, a famous Welsh seat, but built or rebuilt by the Turbervilles. The
buildings are considerable and tolerably perfect. The adjacent priory of
Ewenny was fortified. The Welsh Barons of Avan had a castle upon the
Avon river at Aberavan.
The Lordship of Cilvae extends from near the Neath to the Tawe, upon
which is posted the castle of Abertawe or Swansea, a structure remarkable
for its open parapet with a rampart wall above the arches, the work of
Bishop Gower. Swansea was the “caput” of Gower under the Earls of
Warwick and the De Braoses, and subsidiary to it were the castles of
Oystermouth, still standing, and Lwchwr on the Burry river, called the keys
of Gower. Lwchwr is now but a small square tower standing upon a small
mound connected with a large Roman camp. Within the peninsula are
Penrice, an early castle of that family with a good round keep, and in the
same parish, and near the church, a moated mound; Oxwich, a late building
of the Mansels, a good example of the transition from the castle to the
fortified house; Pennard, a quadrangular castle of the Edwardian type;
Weobley and Llanrhidian. At Scurlage and Llandewi were castles, and at
Llandimor. Mr. Freeman has remarked that twelve of the sixteen churches
of Gower have towers evidently built for defence. The exterior doors, where
they occur, are usually insertions. The low country beyond the Burry is
protected by Kidwelly, a tolerably perfect early castle built by the De
Londres family, and inherited from them by the Chaworths. It stands upon
the Gwendreath, and to its north is the strong castle of Carreg-Cennen. But
the real defence of Caermarthen is the river Towy, strengthened by the four
Page 130
castles on its banks, Llanstephan, Caermarthen, Dynevor, and Drysllwyn, to
which may be added Laugharne, upon an adjacent inlet of the sea, and the
tower at Llangattock, which commanded the end of the pass from
Brecknock. Near to Llandeilo was Llanymdhyfri, which in 1113 belonged
to Richard de Pons. Most of these castles seem to have been established by
the De Clares of the Strongbow line, but strong as they were, and usually
well defended, they had to bear the brunt of the border war, and were often
taken and retaken by and from the Welsh, who at times permanently
occupied them.
This was much or even more the case with the castles of Cardigan,
which, though usually small, and with two or three exceptions not
individually of great importance, were very numerous, and collectively
served sufficiently well for the ordinary defence of the territory. They were
almost all founded by the De Clares and their followers early in the twelfth
century. At the head of them and exceptionally strong stood Aberystwith
near the north of the county, upon the shore of Cardigan Bay, and partly
covered by the junction of the Ystwith with the Rheidol. Its position on the
sea and in the rear of the strongest parts of South Wales made it particularly
obnoxious to the Welsh; it was exposed to the full fury of the attacks from
both North and South Wales, and strong as it was both by art and nature,
was often taken and retaken, destroyed and rebuilt. Between it and the
extreme limit of the county, the Dyfy, were the lesser castles of Geneur-glyn
and Glan-Dyfi, and near it was Stradpythyll Castle, built by Ralph, steward
to Earl Gilbert. It was besieged in 1122. Cardigan is traversed obliquely by
the Teivi, and near the head of that stream was the great castle of Ystrad-
Meyric founded by Gilbert de Clare, of which the ruins remain. Tregaron
was lower down, as were a number of other strong places, such as
Llanllwyni, Llanfihangel, Llandissul, Llangollen, of which it is difficult to
say whether they were castles of the de Clare period or earlier residences.
Blaen-porth-gwythian Castle was built by Earl Gilbert before 1112. At
Newcastle was a strong castle also on the Teivi, and nearer to the mouth of
the river, on the Cardigan bank, the castle of the town of Cardigan. Besides
these there occur in local histories the names of Castell-Gwynionydd or
Coedvon near Llampeter; Castell Abereinon; Humphrey’s Castle in
Llandissil; Blaen Porth near Cardigan; Iscoed, where the mound seems to
have had a keep in masonry; Llanven; Llampeter, where the mound remains
but the masonry has been removed; Dinerth, the mound of which is called
which may be added Laugharne, upon an adjacent inlet of the sea, and the
tower at Llangattock, which commanded the end of the pass from
Brecknock. Near to Llandeilo was Llanymdhyfri, which in 1113 belonged
to Richard de Pons. Most of these castles seem to have been established by
the De Clares of the Strongbow line, but strong as they were, and usually
well defended, they had to bear the brunt of the border war, and were often
taken and retaken by and from the Welsh, who at times permanently
occupied them.
This was much or even more the case with the castles of Cardigan,
which, though usually small, and with two or three exceptions not
individually of great importance, were very numerous, and collectively
served sufficiently well for the ordinary defence of the territory. They were
almost all founded by the De Clares and their followers early in the twelfth
century. At the head of them and exceptionally strong stood Aberystwith
near the north of the county, upon the shore of Cardigan Bay, and partly
covered by the junction of the Ystwith with the Rheidol. Its position on the
sea and in the rear of the strongest parts of South Wales made it particularly
obnoxious to the Welsh; it was exposed to the full fury of the attacks from
both North and South Wales, and strong as it was both by art and nature,
was often taken and retaken, destroyed and rebuilt. Between it and the
extreme limit of the county, the Dyfy, were the lesser castles of Geneur-glyn
and Glan-Dyfi, and near it was Stradpythyll Castle, built by Ralph, steward
to Earl Gilbert. It was besieged in 1122. Cardigan is traversed obliquely by
the Teivi, and near the head of that stream was the great castle of Ystrad-
Meyric founded by Gilbert de Clare, of which the ruins remain. Tregaron
was lower down, as were a number of other strong places, such as
Llanllwyni, Llanfihangel, Llandissul, Llangollen, of which it is difficult to
say whether they were castles of the de Clare period or earlier residences.
Blaen-porth-gwythian Castle was built by Earl Gilbert before 1112. At
Newcastle was a strong castle also on the Teivi, and nearer to the mouth of
the river, on the Cardigan bank, the castle of the town of Cardigan. Besides
these there occur in local histories the names of Castell-Gwynionydd or
Coedvon near Llampeter; Castell Abereinon; Humphrey’s Castle in
Llandissil; Blaen Porth near Cardigan; Iscoed, where the mound seems to
have had a keep in masonry; Llanven; Llampeter, where the mound remains
but the masonry has been removed; Dinerth, the mound of which is called
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Danish, but where Roger de Clare founded a castle in 1135; Castel Rhos in
Llanyrysted, built in 1158; Caerwedro, taken by the Welsh in 1135; and
Llanyondri.
Pembroke, far less exposed than Cardigan to the common enemy, is
divided by the Haven of Milford, owing to which the southern part of the
county, partially peopled by a colony of Flemings, was completely sheltered
from the Welsh incursions, and became in fact a purely English territory. It
was protected but also dominated by the grand castle of Pembroke, founded
by Arnulph de Montgomery, the first Norman invader, but better known as
the seat of Strongbow and the Mareschals, who thence took the title of their
earldom. Pembroke Castle, though a ruin, retains much of its ancient
magnificence. The hall, gatehouse, curtain wall, and mural towers still
remain, and the grand round keep continues to give mass and character to
the whole group. The town also was strongly walled, the castle forming part
of the circuit. At the other end of the root of the peninsula, on the sea, was
the Castle of Tenby, also attached to the earldom, strong in its position, and
also, as its remains show, well fortified. The town of Tenby was walled, and
still retains a portion of the wall and one of its gates. Near Tenby was
Manorbeer, an early castle, though in its present form probably of the date
of Henry III. There is no keep, and the hall is vaulted. The gatehouse
remains. The ruins show it to have been strong. It is celebrated as the
birthplace of Giraldus Cambrensis or de Barri. Carew Castle no doubt
represents an early fortress, and hence sprung, as is supposed, the families
of Fitz-Gerald and Windsor, and most certainly that of Carew. Lamphey
was a castle of the Bishops of St. David’s and has an arcaded parapet, a
poor imitation of that of Bishop Gower at Swansea; and Castle Martin was
the residence of the Barons Martin. At Nangle was a fortified house of the
Sherbornes, and it is very probable that Stackpole Court was preceded by an
early castle built by the founder of the family of that name. North of the
Haven, that great fiord which gives its distinctive feature to the name of
Haverford, is the strong rectangular keep of Haverford-West, the present
state of which reflects utter discredit on the county. It was the work
probably of Gilbert de Clare early in the twelfth century, and around it,
scattered over the whole face of the county, are an unusually great number
of small castles and strong houses, built and inhabited by the Norman
knights who followed Arnulph and Strongbow, and whose descendants
continued to hold them by military service under the succeeding earls. Such
Llanyrysted, built in 1158; Caerwedro, taken by the Welsh in 1135; and
Llanyondri.
Pembroke, far less exposed than Cardigan to the common enemy, is
divided by the Haven of Milford, owing to which the southern part of the
county, partially peopled by a colony of Flemings, was completely sheltered
from the Welsh incursions, and became in fact a purely English territory. It
was protected but also dominated by the grand castle of Pembroke, founded
by Arnulph de Montgomery, the first Norman invader, but better known as
the seat of Strongbow and the Mareschals, who thence took the title of their
earldom. Pembroke Castle, though a ruin, retains much of its ancient
magnificence. The hall, gatehouse, curtain wall, and mural towers still
remain, and the grand round keep continues to give mass and character to
the whole group. The town also was strongly walled, the castle forming part
of the circuit. At the other end of the root of the peninsula, on the sea, was
the Castle of Tenby, also attached to the earldom, strong in its position, and
also, as its remains show, well fortified. The town of Tenby was walled, and
still retains a portion of the wall and one of its gates. Near Tenby was
Manorbeer, an early castle, though in its present form probably of the date
of Henry III. There is no keep, and the hall is vaulted. The gatehouse
remains. The ruins show it to have been strong. It is celebrated as the
birthplace of Giraldus Cambrensis or de Barri. Carew Castle no doubt
represents an early fortress, and hence sprung, as is supposed, the families
of Fitz-Gerald and Windsor, and most certainly that of Carew. Lamphey
was a castle of the Bishops of St. David’s and has an arcaded parapet, a
poor imitation of that of Bishop Gower at Swansea; and Castle Martin was
the residence of the Barons Martin. At Nangle was a fortified house of the
Sherbornes, and it is very probable that Stackpole Court was preceded by an
early castle built by the founder of the family of that name. North of the
Haven, that great fiord which gives its distinctive feature to the name of
Haverford, is the strong rectangular keep of Haverford-West, the present
state of which reflects utter discredit on the county. It was the work
probably of Gilbert de Clare early in the twelfth century, and around it,
scattered over the whole face of the county, are an unusually great number
of small castles and strong houses, built and inhabited by the Norman
knights who followed Arnulph and Strongbow, and whose descendants
continued to hold them by military service under the succeeding earls. Such
Page 132
was Upton, the castle of the Malefaunts, of which remain the chapel and the
gatehouse; Dale, placed on the root of the peninsula of St. Ann’s Head,
belonged to the De Vales; Narberth was founded by the Perrotts; Lawhaden
was the chief seat of the Bishop of St. David’s and the “caput” of the
Episcopal Barony (of it there remain a fine gateway and some other
buildings); Wiston, the castle of Sir Philip Gwys, and afterwards of the
Wogans, is mentioned as taken by the Welsh in 1146; Picton is thought to
have been founded in the reign of Rufus. Besides these are Wallwyn’s
Castle, of which only the mound remains; Castle Byth; Little Newcastle;
Castell Hendre or Henry’s Moat; Roche Castle, a square keep perched upon
a rugged rock, and built by Adam de Rupe, founder of the De la Roche
family; Cilgerran, on the Teivi, a very considerable castle, of which much
remains: it was held by the chief lords; Nevern, the chief castle of the old
barony of Cemaes, afterwards replaced by Newport, of which the remains
are considerable. Mention is also made of Benton Castle; of Castle Coning,
near St. Dogmell’s; Castleton, built by the family of Castle; and Punch or
Poyntz Castle, a grange of the bishops of St. David’s, where there is a large
moated mound. Probably there are many other castellets and fortified
houses in the northern and more exposed half of Pembrokeshire, the sites of
which are confounded with the earlier Raths and circular earthworks of a
period preceding the Norman Conquest. The term Rath, and the pattern of
the fortification also, are probably imported from Ireland, where a circular
bank and ditch surrounded the dwelling-place of almost every landed
proprietor, differing from that in use in England and Normandy by the
absence of the mound. The Irish enclosure was little if at all raised above
the exterior ground, and therefore, though perhaps more convenient,
certainly less strong than the moated mound. Of these Raths there are
several in Pembrokeshire. Here also is another rather peculiar feature. Many
of the church towers, as in Gower, are evidently constructed for defence,
intended no doubt as a ready refuge against a sudden and temporary
incursion of the Welsh, or a descent upon the coast by the Scandinavian
pirates. Such a post, like the Irish round towers, could be held safely for a
few hours until the alarm brought relief.
The castles of the Welsh border have not been critically examined, and it
is, therefore, difficult to give a list of them that shall at all approach
accuracy; it may, however, be stated roughly that there were in Wales at the
close of the reign of Henry II. 251 castles and castellets, of which 21 had
gatehouse; Dale, placed on the root of the peninsula of St. Ann’s Head,
belonged to the De Vales; Narberth was founded by the Perrotts; Lawhaden
was the chief seat of the Bishop of St. David’s and the “caput” of the
Episcopal Barony (of it there remain a fine gateway and some other
buildings); Wiston, the castle of Sir Philip Gwys, and afterwards of the
Wogans, is mentioned as taken by the Welsh in 1146; Picton is thought to
have been founded in the reign of Rufus. Besides these are Wallwyn’s
Castle, of which only the mound remains; Castle Byth; Little Newcastle;
Castell Hendre or Henry’s Moat; Roche Castle, a square keep perched upon
a rugged rock, and built by Adam de Rupe, founder of the De la Roche
family; Cilgerran, on the Teivi, a very considerable castle, of which much
remains: it was held by the chief lords; Nevern, the chief castle of the old
barony of Cemaes, afterwards replaced by Newport, of which the remains
are considerable. Mention is also made of Benton Castle; of Castle Coning,
near St. Dogmell’s; Castleton, built by the family of Castle; and Punch or
Poyntz Castle, a grange of the bishops of St. David’s, where there is a large
moated mound. Probably there are many other castellets and fortified
houses in the northern and more exposed half of Pembrokeshire, the sites of
which are confounded with the earlier Raths and circular earthworks of a
period preceding the Norman Conquest. The term Rath, and the pattern of
the fortification also, are probably imported from Ireland, where a circular
bank and ditch surrounded the dwelling-place of almost every landed
proprietor, differing from that in use in England and Normandy by the
absence of the mound. The Irish enclosure was little if at all raised above
the exterior ground, and therefore, though perhaps more convenient,
certainly less strong than the moated mound. Of these Raths there are
several in Pembrokeshire. Here also is another rather peculiar feature. Many
of the church towers, as in Gower, are evidently constructed for defence,
intended no doubt as a ready refuge against a sudden and temporary
incursion of the Welsh, or a descent upon the coast by the Scandinavian
pirates. Such a post, like the Irish round towers, could be held safely for a
few hours until the alarm brought relief.
The castles of the Welsh border have not been critically examined, and it
is, therefore, difficult to give a list of them that shall at all approach
accuracy; it may, however, be stated roughly that there were in Wales at the
close of the reign of Henry II. 251 castles and castellets, of which 21 had
Page 133
rectangular keeps, and 20 shell keeps. Of castles of which little is accurately
known, or which do not admit of classification, there were about 220.
According to the preceding enumeration, there were at the close of the
reign of Henry II. in England and upon the Marches of Wales about 657
castles, of which 55 had rectangular and 96 shell keeps, while of 506 little
is known, or else they do not come under one or the other of the regular
Norman types. Considering the difficulties which stand in the way of
accuracy in obtaining these figures, the above total does not differ very
widely from Moore, the only authority on the subject, who gives a list of
about 568 of the earlier castles, including therein those of the reign of
Henry III. and the three Edwards.
With the reign of Henry II. may be said to close the principal castle-
building period of English history. Cœur de Lion was scarcely an English
sovereign. He designed, it is said, and certainly built, the great fortress of
Château Gaillard upon the Seine; but he built no castle in England, nor does
any castle of consequence appear to have been founded in his reign. John,
his successor, was always moving from one castle to another, exercising in
a very unpopular degree the royal prerogative of purveyance. He introduced
the Writ known as “Commissimus,” by which castellans were appointed to
the royal castles, and he showed his distrust even of his supporters, by
continually transferring these officers from one castle to another, lest they
should establish any local interest. The siege of Rochester Castle was the
great military engineering operation of the reign, in which the outer wall
was undermined near one angle, and the gallery carried on beneath the
keep, which stood but a few feet within the enclosure. The result was to
bring down the wall and the lower part of one angle of the keep, and the
place and extent of the mischief may still be traced, owing to the angle
having been rebuilt with very indifferent masonry. Almost the last event of
his reign was the siege of Dover by Louis of France, who set up a
“malvoisin” to overtop the walls, but failed to take the place, though before
it for four months. John died at Newark, which, if not the finest castle of the
Midlands, contains certainly the grandest Norman gatehouse in England.
From his accession in May, 1199, to his death in June, 1207, John dated
public instruments from 131 castles in different parts of England, and must
have visited a great many more.
known, or which do not admit of classification, there were about 220.
According to the preceding enumeration, there were at the close of the
reign of Henry II. in England and upon the Marches of Wales about 657
castles, of which 55 had rectangular and 96 shell keeps, while of 506 little
is known, or else they do not come under one or the other of the regular
Norman types. Considering the difficulties which stand in the way of
accuracy in obtaining these figures, the above total does not differ very
widely from Moore, the only authority on the subject, who gives a list of
about 568 of the earlier castles, including therein those of the reign of
Henry III. and the three Edwards.
With the reign of Henry II. may be said to close the principal castle-
building period of English history. Cœur de Lion was scarcely an English
sovereign. He designed, it is said, and certainly built, the great fortress of
Château Gaillard upon the Seine; but he built no castle in England, nor does
any castle of consequence appear to have been founded in his reign. John,
his successor, was always moving from one castle to another, exercising in
a very unpopular degree the royal prerogative of purveyance. He introduced
the Writ known as “Commissimus,” by which castellans were appointed to
the royal castles, and he showed his distrust even of his supporters, by
continually transferring these officers from one castle to another, lest they
should establish any local interest. The siege of Rochester Castle was the
great military engineering operation of the reign, in which the outer wall
was undermined near one angle, and the gallery carried on beneath the
keep, which stood but a few feet within the enclosure. The result was to
bring down the wall and the lower part of one angle of the keep, and the
place and extent of the mischief may still be traced, owing to the angle
having been rebuilt with very indifferent masonry. Almost the last event of
his reign was the siege of Dover by Louis of France, who set up a
“malvoisin” to overtop the walls, but failed to take the place, though before
it for four months. John died at Newark, which, if not the finest castle of the
Midlands, contains certainly the grandest Norman gatehouse in England.
From his accession in May, 1199, to his death in June, 1207, John dated
public instruments from 131 castles in different parts of England, and must
have visited a great many more.
Page 134
Henry III. found his realm over-built with castles, and amongst the
vigorous exertions by which William Marshall and Hubert de Burgh
restored the royal authority should specially be recorded the sieges of
Biham and Bedford castles, two very strong places. The Close Rolls show
the extent of the preparations for these sieges. The sheriffs of the whole
Midland and westward to the Forest of Dean are directed to provide and
forward materials and munitions of war. Carpenters, smiths, quarrymen to
dress stone bullets, miners and engineers, are placed under requisition, and
from all sides are ordered timber, stone, lead, cord, cable, chain, iron bars,
balistæ, catapults, mangonels, crossbows of wood and horn, targets,
quarrels, arrows, slings, hides to cover the malvoisins, and mining tools.
Both castles were stiffly defended, and both were taken. Of Biham no trace
remains; of Bedford a fragment of wall and a mound, reduced almost to a
mole-hill, still shows that Henry’s work was not done negligently. Towards
the end of the reign occurred a still more famous siege, that of Kenilworth.
Here, as on the former occasion, Henry commanded in person, and the
celebrated “Ban of Kenilworth” shows how complete was his victory.
Henry also conducted a campaign in South Wales in which the castles of
Monmouth, Usk, Chepstow, Caerleon, and Cardiff played important parts—
castles calculated to prove a sharp thorn in the side of an English prince,
and to render a uniform and just government impracticable. Henry is not
certainly known as the founder of any important English castle, but he
added to and restored very many. Skenfrith near Monmouth dates from a
little before his time; but Grosmont and White Castle, the two other
members of the great border trilateral, may be of that reign. Henry, no
doubt, was a great builder, and very princely in his operations; but his
works as regards castles were chiefly shown in building, repairing, and
adorning the walls and windows of the royal lodgings, halls, and chapels in
the royal castles, works which were in all cases carried on outside the keep,
within the middle or outer wards, and which in most cases have long since
been swept away. Henry found his castles built to his hands, and had no
opportunity of introducing any specific style or type of military work.
White Castle is a mere pen or enclosure, with high walls and mural towers,
though its earthworks, probably of earlier date, are on a great scale.
Castles of the type known as Edwardian or concentric, though taking
their name from Edward I., were, as a chronological fact, introduced in the
reign of his father, and Caerphilly, one of the earliest, probably the very
vigorous exertions by which William Marshall and Hubert de Burgh
restored the royal authority should specially be recorded the sieges of
Biham and Bedford castles, two very strong places. The Close Rolls show
the extent of the preparations for these sieges. The sheriffs of the whole
Midland and westward to the Forest of Dean are directed to provide and
forward materials and munitions of war. Carpenters, smiths, quarrymen to
dress stone bullets, miners and engineers, are placed under requisition, and
from all sides are ordered timber, stone, lead, cord, cable, chain, iron bars,
balistæ, catapults, mangonels, crossbows of wood and horn, targets,
quarrels, arrows, slings, hides to cover the malvoisins, and mining tools.
Both castles were stiffly defended, and both were taken. Of Biham no trace
remains; of Bedford a fragment of wall and a mound, reduced almost to a
mole-hill, still shows that Henry’s work was not done negligently. Towards
the end of the reign occurred a still more famous siege, that of Kenilworth.
Here, as on the former occasion, Henry commanded in person, and the
celebrated “Ban of Kenilworth” shows how complete was his victory.
Henry also conducted a campaign in South Wales in which the castles of
Monmouth, Usk, Chepstow, Caerleon, and Cardiff played important parts—
castles calculated to prove a sharp thorn in the side of an English prince,
and to render a uniform and just government impracticable. Henry is not
certainly known as the founder of any important English castle, but he
added to and restored very many. Skenfrith near Monmouth dates from a
little before his time; but Grosmont and White Castle, the two other
members of the great border trilateral, may be of that reign. Henry, no
doubt, was a great builder, and very princely in his operations; but his
works as regards castles were chiefly shown in building, repairing, and
adorning the walls and windows of the royal lodgings, halls, and chapels in
the royal castles, works which were in all cases carried on outside the keep,
within the middle or outer wards, and which in most cases have long since
been swept away. Henry found his castles built to his hands, and had no
opportunity of introducing any specific style or type of military work.
White Castle is a mere pen or enclosure, with high walls and mural towers,
though its earthworks, probably of earlier date, are on a great scale.
Castles of the type known as Edwardian or concentric, though taking
their name from Edward I., were, as a chronological fact, introduced in the
reign of his father, and Caerphilly, one of the earliest, probably the very
Page 135
earliest, of the concentric type, and curiously enough one of the most
complete, was constructed by the Lord of Glamorgan in the very last year of
Henry’s reign. Caerphilly is second only to Windsor in extent, and second
to no mediæval fortress whatever in the skill with which it is laid out, and
the natural features of the ground turned to advantage. It was executed, and
probably planned, with great rapidity. Its cost must have been enormous,
and must have taxed to the utmost the resources of even so wealthy a noble
as the Earl of Gloucester and Hertford.
The type thus introduced was adopted by Edward I., and is exemplified
in the castles of Harlech and Beaumaris. Conway and Caernarvon, though
superior in magnificence to these and less symmetrical, are chiefly
remarkable because they form a part of the defences of the towns attached
to them, the whole being of one date and parts of one plan. The reign of
Edward much diminished the value of English castles. Even the fortresses
erected by him in North Wales, when their end was attained and the
province reduced to subjection, ceased to be of value and gradually fell into
decay, and in England when once his rule was established and his power
realised, the lords even of the strongest castles did not venture to garrison
them against him.
complete, was constructed by the Lord of Glamorgan in the very last year of
Henry’s reign. Caerphilly is second only to Windsor in extent, and second
to no mediæval fortress whatever in the skill with which it is laid out, and
the natural features of the ground turned to advantage. It was executed, and
probably planned, with great rapidity. Its cost must have been enormous,
and must have taxed to the utmost the resources of even so wealthy a noble
as the Earl of Gloucester and Hertford.
The type thus introduced was adopted by Edward I., and is exemplified
in the castles of Harlech and Beaumaris. Conway and Caernarvon, though
superior in magnificence to these and less symmetrical, are chiefly
remarkable because they form a part of the defences of the towns attached
to them, the whole being of one date and parts of one plan. The reign of
Edward much diminished the value of English castles. Even the fortresses
erected by him in North Wales, when their end was attained and the
province reduced to subjection, ceased to be of value and gradually fell into
decay, and in England when once his rule was established and his power
realised, the lords even of the strongest castles did not venture to garrison
them against him.
Page 136
CHAPTER IX.
THE RECTANGULAR KEEP OF A NORMAN CASTLE.
IN a preceding chapter an attempt was made to describe the appearance and
to give an outline of the history of those earthworks in England and
Normandy upon which the Norman and Anglo-Norman barons founded
their chief strongholds, and which, therefore, are connected with the
military architecture of either country. It is now proposed to describe the
buildings themselves, whether placed within the ancient earthworks or
altogether of original foundation, which constituted the fortresses of
England in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, through the periods known in
ecclesiastical architecture as the Norman and Transition, and which, in
military architecture, include the Norman form of castle. What is known as
the Norman style of architecture prevailed in England from the Conquest to
the close of the reign of Stephen,—that is, from 1066 to 1154; but this latter
is necessarily an arbitrary date, since it was by degrees only that one style
of architecture passed into another, and the Norman features, though found
in all buildings, and especially in castles, down to the end of the reign of
Henry II., or 1189, became more and more mixed up with those of the
succeeding style.
The castles of the eleventh and twelfth centuries, whether in Normandy
or in England, were of two distinct types,—those with the rectangular and
those with the shell keep. The former type was almost always employed
when the site selected was a new one, the latter where the site was old, and
where there existed a “motte” or mound. There are exceptions to this; that is
to say, the rectangular keep is occasionally found on an old site, but the
shell keep is never found on a new one. The distinction was mainly due to
the fact that the massive heavy tower could only be safely founded upon
solid ground, whereas the lighter and more widely-distributed weight of the
shell keep was better suited to that which was artificial. The shell keep was
the most numerous of the two; but the tower type, being of a more solid and
more durable character, has lasted longest, and is at this time so much the
most common that it has been designated by writers of authority as the type,
THE RECTANGULAR KEEP OF A NORMAN CASTLE.
IN a preceding chapter an attempt was made to describe the appearance and
to give an outline of the history of those earthworks in England and
Normandy upon which the Norman and Anglo-Norman barons founded
their chief strongholds, and which, therefore, are connected with the
military architecture of either country. It is now proposed to describe the
buildings themselves, whether placed within the ancient earthworks or
altogether of original foundation, which constituted the fortresses of
England in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, through the periods known in
ecclesiastical architecture as the Norman and Transition, and which, in
military architecture, include the Norman form of castle. What is known as
the Norman style of architecture prevailed in England from the Conquest to
the close of the reign of Stephen,—that is, from 1066 to 1154; but this latter
is necessarily an arbitrary date, since it was by degrees only that one style
of architecture passed into another, and the Norman features, though found
in all buildings, and especially in castles, down to the end of the reign of
Henry II., or 1189, became more and more mixed up with those of the
succeeding style.
The castles of the eleventh and twelfth centuries, whether in Normandy
or in England, were of two distinct types,—those with the rectangular and
those with the shell keep. The former type was almost always employed
when the site selected was a new one, the latter where the site was old, and
where there existed a “motte” or mound. There are exceptions to this; that is
to say, the rectangular keep is occasionally found on an old site, but the
shell keep is never found on a new one. The distinction was mainly due to
the fact that the massive heavy tower could only be safely founded upon
solid ground, whereas the lighter and more widely-distributed weight of the
shell keep was better suited to that which was artificial. The shell keep was
the most numerous of the two; but the tower type, being of a more solid and
more durable character, has lasted longest, and is at this time so much the
most common that it has been designated by writers of authority as the type,
Page 137
instead of as but one of the two types of a Norman keep. The rectangular
and the shell keep never occur in the same castle; and, as a rule, where there
is a mound there is no rectangular keep. The only known exceptions to this
rule are at Christchurch, Guildford, Clun, Saffron Walden, Mileham,
Bungay, and Bramber. At Christchurch and Mileham the mound is low, and
the keep walls seem to be carried through it to the solid ground. At
Guildford, as at Clun, where the mound is large, the keep is built on its
slope, so that the lower end and one-third of the contiguous sides are seen to
rest on the solid ground, and thus effectually counteract the tendency of the
upper part to slide down. Walden has not been carefully examined, nor is it
known whether the foundations at Bungay are carried down to the solid
earth. At Bramber there is an oblong natural hill, surrounded by a very deep
ditch, in part artificial, while at one end of the hill is a square keep, and near
the other a small mound. At Llwchwr, in South Wales, a small square tower
stands upon a low and small mound, mixed up with the bank of a Roman
camp. The tower, indeed, is not actually Norman, though no doubt early,
and it most probably descends to the natural ground. The large rectangular
tower at Oxford is not the keep, but a mural tower, though of unusual bulk.
The keep there was a shell, and crowned the mound. At Kenilworth there
seems to have been a small mound, which has been included within the
keep, the walls of which rest upon the natural rock. The mound in this way
fills up the basement of the keep, the ground-floor of which is thus raised
12 feet to 15 feet above the exterior level, as in the shell keep of Berkeley
and in some degree at Pontefract.
The rectangular keep is, of all military structures, the simplest in form,
the grandest in outline and dimensions, the sternest in passive strength, the
most durable in design and workmanship, and in most cases by some years
the earliest in date. Of the five great fortresses which covered the road from
Dover to London, Dover itself, Canterbury, Rochester, and London have
square keeps; the fifth, Tonbridge, having an earlier mound, has a shell
keep. Farnham and Berkhampstead, Windsor, Wallingford, and Oxford,—
fortresses guarding London from the west,—having mounds, have not
square keeps. Hedingham and Colchester to the east, having square keeps,
are without the mound, though Hedingham, like Corfe and Bramber, stands
on a natural hill. Northwards, Warwick and Kenilworth confirm the rule,
one having had a mound and no square keep; the other a square keep which
has absorbed the mound, if mound there was. At Belvoir, the mound, a
and the shell keep never occur in the same castle; and, as a rule, where there
is a mound there is no rectangular keep. The only known exceptions to this
rule are at Christchurch, Guildford, Clun, Saffron Walden, Mileham,
Bungay, and Bramber. At Christchurch and Mileham the mound is low, and
the keep walls seem to be carried through it to the solid ground. At
Guildford, as at Clun, where the mound is large, the keep is built on its
slope, so that the lower end and one-third of the contiguous sides are seen to
rest on the solid ground, and thus effectually counteract the tendency of the
upper part to slide down. Walden has not been carefully examined, nor is it
known whether the foundations at Bungay are carried down to the solid
earth. At Bramber there is an oblong natural hill, surrounded by a very deep
ditch, in part artificial, while at one end of the hill is a square keep, and near
the other a small mound. At Llwchwr, in South Wales, a small square tower
stands upon a low and small mound, mixed up with the bank of a Roman
camp. The tower, indeed, is not actually Norman, though no doubt early,
and it most probably descends to the natural ground. The large rectangular
tower at Oxford is not the keep, but a mural tower, though of unusual bulk.
The keep there was a shell, and crowned the mound. At Kenilworth there
seems to have been a small mound, which has been included within the
keep, the walls of which rest upon the natural rock. The mound in this way
fills up the basement of the keep, the ground-floor of which is thus raised
12 feet to 15 feet above the exterior level, as in the shell keep of Berkeley
and in some degree at Pontefract.
The rectangular keep is, of all military structures, the simplest in form,
the grandest in outline and dimensions, the sternest in passive strength, the
most durable in design and workmanship, and in most cases by some years
the earliest in date. Of the five great fortresses which covered the road from
Dover to London, Dover itself, Canterbury, Rochester, and London have
square keeps; the fifth, Tonbridge, having an earlier mound, has a shell
keep. Farnham and Berkhampstead, Windsor, Wallingford, and Oxford,—
fortresses guarding London from the west,—having mounds, have not
square keeps. Hedingham and Colchester to the east, having square keeps,
are without the mound, though Hedingham, like Corfe and Bramber, stands
on a natural hill. Northwards, Warwick and Kenilworth confirm the rule,
one having had a mound and no square keep; the other a square keep which
has absorbed the mound, if mound there was. At Belvoir, the mound, a
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natural hill, is capped by a shell, as were the artificial mounds of Bedford,
Cambridge, Clare, Eye, and Ongar, while rectangular keeps are, or were,
found at Chepstow, Ludlow, Bristol and Wattlesborough, Lancaster and
Newcastle, and on the moundless sites of Bamburgh, Carlisle, Corfe,
Norham, Norwich, Nottingham, Porchester, Scarborough, Knaresborough,
Helmsley, and Richmond, and in the less distinguished lordships, some of
Norman foundation, of Appleby, Brough, Brougham, Bowes, Castle Rising,
Clitheroe, Castleton, Goderich, and Prudhoe. Where there is a rectangular
keep it rises high over every part of the fortress, and gives, as at Bamburgh,
unity and grandeur to the architectural composition. It is usually, as at
Rochester, Dover, Richmond, and Scarborough, placed upon the highest
ground within the enclosure, and very rarely indeed in or near the centre,
although, as in London, it may have been rendered central by the removal
of its original enceinte and the substitution of new and extended lines. At
Malling, perhaps the earliest in England of these keeps, and at Helmsley,
probably the latest,—for that of Knaresborough, though square, is of
Decorated date,—the keep stands on one side of, and forms a part of the
enceinte. At Bamburgh, Bramber, Canterbury, Carlisle, Clitheroe, and
Rochester, the keep stands clear of, but very near to, the outer wall, of
which, at Porchester, it forms one angle. At Kenilworth and Bridgenorth the
keep forms an angle of the inner wall; at Norham one face ranges with the
outer and one with the inner wall; and at Ludlow the keep is placed on the
inner wall, close to the main gateway. At Ogmore it occupies an angle,
having one face on the outer and one on the cross or inner wall. Dover
stands detached in the middle of what appears to be its original enclosure,
and so, probably, did Hedingham and Castle Rising. At Mitford, near
Morpeth, is a singular example of a rectangular keep, of which three angles
are right-angled, and the fourth face is broken into two planes meeting at a
low salient. It is probably late in the period.
These keeps vary in dimensions from 25 feet to 80 feet and even 100 feet
in the side, and they are usually from one and a half to two diameters in
height to the base of the parapet. Many, perhaps most, have been raised a
stage, as Porchester, Bridgenorth, Richmond, Brough, Brougham,
Kenilworth, and Norham. In most of these cases the addition was made
within the Norman period, and possibly contemporaneous with the
substitution of a covering of lead for one of shingles or stone tiles.
Cambridge, Clare, Eye, and Ongar, while rectangular keeps are, or were,
found at Chepstow, Ludlow, Bristol and Wattlesborough, Lancaster and
Newcastle, and on the moundless sites of Bamburgh, Carlisle, Corfe,
Norham, Norwich, Nottingham, Porchester, Scarborough, Knaresborough,
Helmsley, and Richmond, and in the less distinguished lordships, some of
Norman foundation, of Appleby, Brough, Brougham, Bowes, Castle Rising,
Clitheroe, Castleton, Goderich, and Prudhoe. Where there is a rectangular
keep it rises high over every part of the fortress, and gives, as at Bamburgh,
unity and grandeur to the architectural composition. It is usually, as at
Rochester, Dover, Richmond, and Scarborough, placed upon the highest
ground within the enclosure, and very rarely indeed in or near the centre,
although, as in London, it may have been rendered central by the removal
of its original enceinte and the substitution of new and extended lines. At
Malling, perhaps the earliest in England of these keeps, and at Helmsley,
probably the latest,—for that of Knaresborough, though square, is of
Decorated date,—the keep stands on one side of, and forms a part of the
enceinte. At Bamburgh, Bramber, Canterbury, Carlisle, Clitheroe, and
Rochester, the keep stands clear of, but very near to, the outer wall, of
which, at Porchester, it forms one angle. At Kenilworth and Bridgenorth the
keep forms an angle of the inner wall; at Norham one face ranges with the
outer and one with the inner wall; and at Ludlow the keep is placed on the
inner wall, close to the main gateway. At Ogmore it occupies an angle,
having one face on the outer and one on the cross or inner wall. Dover
stands detached in the middle of what appears to be its original enclosure,
and so, probably, did Hedingham and Castle Rising. At Mitford, near
Morpeth, is a singular example of a rectangular keep, of which three angles
are right-angled, and the fourth face is broken into two planes meeting at a
low salient. It is probably late in the period.
These keeps vary in dimensions from 25 feet to 80 feet and even 100 feet
in the side, and they are usually from one and a half to two diameters in
height to the base of the parapet. Many, perhaps most, have been raised a
stage, as Porchester, Bridgenorth, Richmond, Brough, Brougham,
Kenilworth, and Norham. In most of these cases the addition was made
within the Norman period, and possibly contemporaneous with the
substitution of a covering of lead for one of shingles or stone tiles.
Page 139
Usually the flat exterior faces are relieved by broad pilaster strips of
slight projection from 5 feet to 10 feet wide, by 6 inches in depth, one at the
end of and flanking each face, and in the larger keeps one, or even two,
between them. The flanking pilasters are commonly placed so as to cover
the angle, the two meeting; sometimes, however, they do not quite meet,
and the solid angle is replaced by a hollow nook, occasionally, in late keeps,
as at Castle Rising and Scarborough, occupied by a bold bead or engaged
shaft. In all but the very small keeps these flanking pilasters are continued 8
feet to 10 feet clear above the parapet as the outer faces of square turrets,
now usually ruined. At Hedingham one, partly perfect, remains. Those on
the White Tower and at Rochester are in part original, and certainly
represent, very closely, original structures. At Bowes there seems to have
been but one turret, covering the stairhead. The intermediate pilasters
usually stop either just below the base of the parapet or below an upper
window. At Dover they are carried into the parapet and support slight
internal recesses there, but this is very rare. The pilasters usually are divided
by strings into stages, marking the levels of the different floors, and all rise
from a common plinth, sometimes slight, but sometimes, as at Malling,
Kenilworth, Guildford, Scarborough, and Norham, where one side rises
from lower ground, the plinth is on that side 8 feet to 10 feet high, and has
at Kenilworth and Norham a very bold base. The set-off and string-course
are sometimes carried along both wall and pilasters. At Colchester and at
the White Tower a projecting half-round forms the apse of the chapel, and
the pilasters appear upon it; at Rochester a rounded corner is solid, save at
one story, but this is probably due to a reconstruction. The pilasters are one
of the most marked features of the Norman style, and their presence at once
distinguishes a keep of that period from the fine fourteenth-century towers,
as Borthwick and Lochleven, found in Scotland, as well as from towers of
Early English date, where the pilasters are bolder and narrower, and often,
as at Exeter Castle, chamfered at the angles.
The keep wall is from 7 feet to 14 feet thick, and at the base of the
foundation sometimes 20 feet. That of Colchester is reputed to be 30 feet.
That of the Tower of London is said to have taken six weeks to pierce, with
all modern tools and appliances. The lower 14 feet of the keep of Newcastle
is thought to be solid. The wall usually diminishes in thickness as it rises,
sometimes by external sets-off of 6 inches, more commonly by an internal
step of 1 foot at each floor level. Occasionally the exterior face slopes
slight projection from 5 feet to 10 feet wide, by 6 inches in depth, one at the
end of and flanking each face, and in the larger keeps one, or even two,
between them. The flanking pilasters are commonly placed so as to cover
the angle, the two meeting; sometimes, however, they do not quite meet,
and the solid angle is replaced by a hollow nook, occasionally, in late keeps,
as at Castle Rising and Scarborough, occupied by a bold bead or engaged
shaft. In all but the very small keeps these flanking pilasters are continued 8
feet to 10 feet clear above the parapet as the outer faces of square turrets,
now usually ruined. At Hedingham one, partly perfect, remains. Those on
the White Tower and at Rochester are in part original, and certainly
represent, very closely, original structures. At Bowes there seems to have
been but one turret, covering the stairhead. The intermediate pilasters
usually stop either just below the base of the parapet or below an upper
window. At Dover they are carried into the parapet and support slight
internal recesses there, but this is very rare. The pilasters usually are divided
by strings into stages, marking the levels of the different floors, and all rise
from a common plinth, sometimes slight, but sometimes, as at Malling,
Kenilworth, Guildford, Scarborough, and Norham, where one side rises
from lower ground, the plinth is on that side 8 feet to 10 feet high, and has
at Kenilworth and Norham a very bold base. The set-off and string-course
are sometimes carried along both wall and pilasters. At Colchester and at
the White Tower a projecting half-round forms the apse of the chapel, and
the pilasters appear upon it; at Rochester a rounded corner is solid, save at
one story, but this is probably due to a reconstruction. The pilasters are one
of the most marked features of the Norman style, and their presence at once
distinguishes a keep of that period from the fine fourteenth-century towers,
as Borthwick and Lochleven, found in Scotland, as well as from towers of
Early English date, where the pilasters are bolder and narrower, and often,
as at Exeter Castle, chamfered at the angles.
The keep wall is from 7 feet to 14 feet thick, and at the base of the
foundation sometimes 20 feet. That of Colchester is reputed to be 30 feet.
That of the Tower of London is said to have taken six weeks to pierce, with
all modern tools and appliances. The lower 14 feet of the keep of Newcastle
is thought to be solid. The wall usually diminishes in thickness as it rises,
sometimes by external sets-off of 6 inches, more commonly by an internal
step of 1 foot at each floor level. Occasionally the exterior face slopes
Page 140
inward or batters, but this is unusual. The summit at the level of the allure
or battlement walk is seldom less than 6 feet, and often 7 feet or 8 feet
thick. Within, the larger keeps are divided by a cross wall, usually
ascending to the summit, and pierced in each floor. Sometimes this wall is
confined to the basement and first floor. Kenilworth, a large keep, had no
cross wall; Norwich and Canterbury had two, and some have chambers
walled off at the ends by secondary cross walls, as Castle Rising, Wolvesey,
Colchester, and the White Tower. At Bowes two walls divided the basement
into three chambers. Usually these dividing-walls were pierced by
doorways, but the openings in the main floor were larger. At Scarborough
was, and at Hedingham still is, a single large arch; at Rochester and at
Middleham are several arches. At Porchester are only small doorways.
Where there is no cross wall its place was, no doubt, supplied by posts of
timber. The smaller keeps have a basement and a first floor; the larger, a
second and third floor,—the latter being often an early addition.
The basement chamber is almost always at the exterior ground level, and
never much below it; it is commonly from 12 feet to 15 feet high, aired,
rather than lighted, by one or more narrow loops in each face, splayed and
stepped up to within: Richmond has not even these. The basement was
evidently always a storeroom. Now and then, as at Scarborough, but not
often, its walls contain chambers; more commonly they are solid. In small
keeps, as Ludlow and Carlisle, the first was the main floor, or room of state;
in the larger, as Rochester, it seems to have been a barrack. The apertures
were rather larger than those below, but not much. In the walls were
commonly chambers. In the large keeps the main floor, usually the second,
was from 25 feet to 30 feet high, generally with windows 2 feet or so broad,
and often coupled under a single arch outside. Inside, the recess was
splayed, and sometimes descended to the floor level, while in the jambs
were door-openings into mural chambers. Some of these castle halls must
have been noble rooms. Where there was a cross wall, as at Rochester,
Norham, and Middleham, there were two rooms; at Kenilworth the large
open space was probably subdivided by a brattice. Usually, in the larger
castles, the wall of the main floor is pierced, high up, by a sort of triforium
gallery, into which the outer windows open, and which opens into the
chamber by lofty and larger arches of 3 feet to 4 feet opening. Possibly
these galleries and their windows were intended to give another line of
defence; but they must have destroyed the privacy of the hall and made it
or battlement walk is seldom less than 6 feet, and often 7 feet or 8 feet
thick. Within, the larger keeps are divided by a cross wall, usually
ascending to the summit, and pierced in each floor. Sometimes this wall is
confined to the basement and first floor. Kenilworth, a large keep, had no
cross wall; Norwich and Canterbury had two, and some have chambers
walled off at the ends by secondary cross walls, as Castle Rising, Wolvesey,
Colchester, and the White Tower. At Bowes two walls divided the basement
into three chambers. Usually these dividing-walls were pierced by
doorways, but the openings in the main floor were larger. At Scarborough
was, and at Hedingham still is, a single large arch; at Rochester and at
Middleham are several arches. At Porchester are only small doorways.
Where there is no cross wall its place was, no doubt, supplied by posts of
timber. The smaller keeps have a basement and a first floor; the larger, a
second and third floor,—the latter being often an early addition.
The basement chamber is almost always at the exterior ground level, and
never much below it; it is commonly from 12 feet to 15 feet high, aired,
rather than lighted, by one or more narrow loops in each face, splayed and
stepped up to within: Richmond has not even these. The basement was
evidently always a storeroom. Now and then, as at Scarborough, but not
often, its walls contain chambers; more commonly they are solid. In small
keeps, as Ludlow and Carlisle, the first was the main floor, or room of state;
in the larger, as Rochester, it seems to have been a barrack. The apertures
were rather larger than those below, but not much. In the walls were
commonly chambers. In the large keeps the main floor, usually the second,
was from 25 feet to 30 feet high, generally with windows 2 feet or so broad,
and often coupled under a single arch outside. Inside, the recess was
splayed, and sometimes descended to the floor level, while in the jambs
were door-openings into mural chambers. Some of these castle halls must
have been noble rooms. Where there was a cross wall, as at Rochester,
Norham, and Middleham, there were two rooms; at Kenilworth the large
open space was probably subdivided by a brattice. Usually, in the larger
castles, the wall of the main floor is pierced, high up, by a sort of triforium
gallery, into which the outer windows open, and which opens into the
chamber by lofty and larger arches of 3 feet to 4 feet opening. Possibly
these galleries and their windows were intended to give another line of
defence; but they must have destroyed the privacy of the hall and made it
Page 141
very cold. Above the main floor was an upper floor, probably occupied as
private rooms, bratticed off by partitions of wood. Where this floor was not
a part of the original building, to gain it seems to have been one object of
the addition. It was placed immediately below the roof. The original roof
seems to have been inclined at a moderate pitch, such as was necessary to
carry off the water from a covering of shingles. The gables did not rise
above the parapet, so that there was thus a great loss of space. In the smaller
keeps the roof was a simple ridge with lateral gutters; where there was a
cross wall the roof was double, with a central as well as lateral gutters. That
this was the usual arrangement is clear from the old weather mouldings,
which remain in the end walls wherever these have been raised. The
original roof having its ridge rather below the parapet, had its side gutters in
deep hollows. Of course, no military engine could have been placed on such
a roof. Where the walls have been raised the roof has been replaced by a
floor, and an upper story introduced with either a flat, or nearly flat, and
leaded roof. These additions are almost always late Norman; but at
Brougham they are Decorated. At Ludlow, where there was a central ridge
with two lateral gutters, the interior has been re-arranged, and a flat roof
laid at the ridge level of the old one, gaining a floor without raising the
walls. The gables never seem, as in the Scottish towers, to have risen above
the parapet. Probably one reason why the Norman roofs were lifted and
flattened was to allow of military engines being placed upon them, and the
use of lead must have come in rather suddenly just before the close of the
Norman period.
The floors of these keeps are almost always of timber; thick rough
planks, resting upon stout balks 12 inches or 14 inches square, placed about
2 feet or 3 feet apart, and resting either on a ledge or in regular joist-holes.
Such floors exposed the keep to be burned, and once well on fire it would
certainly burn till it was gutted. The basement is now and then vaulted, but
the vaulting is very rarely original, and when it is so the keep is late. The
vaulting at the Tower and at Dover is modern brickwork; the Ludlow vault
seems Early English; that at the lower part of Carlisle, that of Porchester,
Brougham, Bowes, and Richmond, Decorated; the vaulting at Middleham,
Newcastle, and Mitford may be original. The vaulting at Norham, a late
keep, may be original, but was more probably inserted at an early period by
Bishop Puisèt. That of Bamburgh is an insertion. The basement of Bowes
was vaulted, but what remains of one rib is either Decorated or later. In a
private rooms, bratticed off by partitions of wood. Where this floor was not
a part of the original building, to gain it seems to have been one object of
the addition. It was placed immediately below the roof. The original roof
seems to have been inclined at a moderate pitch, such as was necessary to
carry off the water from a covering of shingles. The gables did not rise
above the parapet, so that there was thus a great loss of space. In the smaller
keeps the roof was a simple ridge with lateral gutters; where there was a
cross wall the roof was double, with a central as well as lateral gutters. That
this was the usual arrangement is clear from the old weather mouldings,
which remain in the end walls wherever these have been raised. The
original roof having its ridge rather below the parapet, had its side gutters in
deep hollows. Of course, no military engine could have been placed on such
a roof. Where the walls have been raised the roof has been replaced by a
floor, and an upper story introduced with either a flat, or nearly flat, and
leaded roof. These additions are almost always late Norman; but at
Brougham they are Decorated. At Ludlow, where there was a central ridge
with two lateral gutters, the interior has been re-arranged, and a flat roof
laid at the ridge level of the old one, gaining a floor without raising the
walls. The gables never seem, as in the Scottish towers, to have risen above
the parapet. Probably one reason why the Norman roofs were lifted and
flattened was to allow of military engines being placed upon them, and the
use of lead must have come in rather suddenly just before the close of the
Norman period.
The floors of these keeps are almost always of timber; thick rough
planks, resting upon stout balks 12 inches or 14 inches square, placed about
2 feet or 3 feet apart, and resting either on a ledge or in regular joist-holes.
Such floors exposed the keep to be burned, and once well on fire it would
certainly burn till it was gutted. The basement is now and then vaulted, but
the vaulting is very rarely original, and when it is so the keep is late. The
vaulting at the Tower and at Dover is modern brickwork; the Ludlow vault
seems Early English; that at the lower part of Carlisle, that of Porchester,
Brougham, Bowes, and Richmond, Decorated; the vaulting at Middleham,
Newcastle, and Mitford may be original. The vaulting at Norham, a late
keep, may be original, but was more probably inserted at an early period by
Bishop Puisèt. That of Bamburgh is an insertion. The basement of Bowes
was vaulted, but what remains of one rib is either Decorated or later. In a
Page 142
few examples where guns have been mounted on a Norman keep, a brick
vault has been sprung over the upper chamber, and the roof filled up and
paved. At Dover, Carlisle, and Newcastle, where this has been done, the
upper openings of the hall are closed, and the interior of the fabric utterly
disfigured. There is certainly no original vaulting of a great chamber higher
than the basement.
In most keeps there is a well-stair in one angle, which commences at the
ground-level, supplies every floor, and terminates on the roof under the
turret-head, but has no communication below with the exterior. This was so
originally at the White Tower. There are also other staircases at other levels,
beginning on the first, or even the second, floor, and not always reaching
the roof. As a rule, one stair, descending to the storeroom, seems to have
been enough; but it was thought an advantage to have two or three
ascending from the hall or upper floor to the ramparts, for readiness during
a siege. At Canterbury there are also two well-staircases in the side walls;
and there is one in London. These well-staircases are from 8 feet to 12 feet
in diameter, and lighted with loops. Usually they communicate with each
floor through a sort of lobby. The stairs are always of stone. As the steps at
each angle do not suit the same level of the mural gallery, these latter are
coaxed and accommodated, usually very clumsily. Now and then the
arrangement is different, the stair stops at the first floor, and is continued at
the opposite diagonal. Sometimes, as at Carlisle, Ludlow, and Bamburgh,
where the outer door is at the ground-level, the staircase commences in the
side of the doorway, and ascends straight in the wall, and, on reaching the
next angle proceeds as a well-stair. This is so at Chepstow, where the upper
ascent is probably an addition. At Carlisle and Ludlow the staircase stops at
the first floor, and is continued at another angle. At Brough, where the outer
door is on the first floor, a narrow straight stair rises in the wall to the
second. At Prudhoe, it is continued round two sides, and at Richmond. The
direction of the staircases may be always detected by the position of the
exterior loops, and the general rule seems to be to limit the approach to the
stores and main floor, and from the latter to give a free access to the
ramparts. The curves and angles in those narrow staircases facilitated the
defence of them.
The immense thickness of the walls is usually taken advantage of for the
formation of mural chambers. These are rectangular, and sometimes placed
vault has been sprung over the upper chamber, and the roof filled up and
paved. At Dover, Carlisle, and Newcastle, where this has been done, the
upper openings of the hall are closed, and the interior of the fabric utterly
disfigured. There is certainly no original vaulting of a great chamber higher
than the basement.
In most keeps there is a well-stair in one angle, which commences at the
ground-level, supplies every floor, and terminates on the roof under the
turret-head, but has no communication below with the exterior. This was so
originally at the White Tower. There are also other staircases at other levels,
beginning on the first, or even the second, floor, and not always reaching
the roof. As a rule, one stair, descending to the storeroom, seems to have
been enough; but it was thought an advantage to have two or three
ascending from the hall or upper floor to the ramparts, for readiness during
a siege. At Canterbury there are also two well-staircases in the side walls;
and there is one in London. These well-staircases are from 8 feet to 12 feet
in diameter, and lighted with loops. Usually they communicate with each
floor through a sort of lobby. The stairs are always of stone. As the steps at
each angle do not suit the same level of the mural gallery, these latter are
coaxed and accommodated, usually very clumsily. Now and then the
arrangement is different, the stair stops at the first floor, and is continued at
the opposite diagonal. Sometimes, as at Carlisle, Ludlow, and Bamburgh,
where the outer door is at the ground-level, the staircase commences in the
side of the doorway, and ascends straight in the wall, and, on reaching the
next angle proceeds as a well-stair. This is so at Chepstow, where the upper
ascent is probably an addition. At Carlisle and Ludlow the staircase stops at
the first floor, and is continued at another angle. At Brough, where the outer
door is on the first floor, a narrow straight stair rises in the wall to the
second. At Prudhoe, it is continued round two sides, and at Richmond. The
direction of the staircases may be always detected by the position of the
exterior loops, and the general rule seems to be to limit the approach to the
stores and main floor, and from the latter to give a free access to the
ramparts. The curves and angles in those narrow staircases facilitated the
defence of them.
The immense thickness of the walls is usually taken advantage of for the
formation of mural chambers. These are rectangular, and sometimes placed
Page 143
in an angle, and ∟-shaped. They are vaulted, usually in a plain barrel, or
equally plain groining, lighted by external loops, and now and then, though
very rarely, have, as at Bowes, a fireplace. In breadth they vary from 4 feet
to 6 feet, and they are of all lengths. Usually they are more abundant and
larger, in the main and upper floors. They were intended for sleeping-
rooms, garderobes, oratories, and well-chambers. At Guildford is a very
remarkable oratory, at the first-floor level, ∟-shaped, with a mural arcade.
At Brougham the oratory is on the upper floor. At Rochester and Dover the
upper gallery does not run all round; and in the latter ends in a prison cell.
Some keeps, even with thick walls, contain but few chambers. The two
remaining sides of Norham, a late keep, have none, or, at most, one. Dover,
also late, is honeycombed with chambers at every level, and even the cross-
wall above is threaded by a gallery, a singular example. Newcastle, built in
1080, has very many chambers. Where there are garderobes they have stone
seats, and the vent is usually a vertical shaft in the wall, though sometimes
there is a shoot upon the exterior surface of it, or, though more rarely, it is
corbelled out. At Kenilworth, a fine but late keep, one angle contained a
well-stair, and the three others chambers. They are turrets from the ground,
and in size larger than usual. They are floored with timber. One angle turret
seems to have been wholly occupied by garderobes, and the lower part, at
present filled with light soil, was evidently a large cesspool. At Corfe a very
large garderobe tower,—perhaps a Norman addition,—is appended to one
side of the keep.
Most keeps, even early ones, contain fireplaces. One has been discovered
in the Tower, long supposed to be without them. At Dover they are in the
cross-wall; at Rochester, where they are very handsome, in the sides.
Usually the funnel ascends in the wall; at Rochester and Colchester it forks,
and the two flues open a little way up on the face of the wall, concealed in
the hollow angle of a pilaster. It is not easy to tell whether a flue is original
when the fittings of the fireplace have been inserted; thus, in the Tower
closets, where the fireplaces are Tudor, there are no marks in the wall as
though it had been cut into to construct a flue, so these may represent
original fireplaces, though this is not probable. No doubt open hearths were
much used, and fireplaces of iron with flues of wood and plaster, which
would leave no trace when removed. The fireplaces in the mural chambers
at Dover seem all to be of Tudor date. No fireplace has been discovered in
Richmond keep; there is an original one in a mural chamber at Bowes.
equally plain groining, lighted by external loops, and now and then, though
very rarely, have, as at Bowes, a fireplace. In breadth they vary from 4 feet
to 6 feet, and they are of all lengths. Usually they are more abundant and
larger, in the main and upper floors. They were intended for sleeping-
rooms, garderobes, oratories, and well-chambers. At Guildford is a very
remarkable oratory, at the first-floor level, ∟-shaped, with a mural arcade.
At Brougham the oratory is on the upper floor. At Rochester and Dover the
upper gallery does not run all round; and in the latter ends in a prison cell.
Some keeps, even with thick walls, contain but few chambers. The two
remaining sides of Norham, a late keep, have none, or, at most, one. Dover,
also late, is honeycombed with chambers at every level, and even the cross-
wall above is threaded by a gallery, a singular example. Newcastle, built in
1080, has very many chambers. Where there are garderobes they have stone
seats, and the vent is usually a vertical shaft in the wall, though sometimes
there is a shoot upon the exterior surface of it, or, though more rarely, it is
corbelled out. At Kenilworth, a fine but late keep, one angle contained a
well-stair, and the three others chambers. They are turrets from the ground,
and in size larger than usual. They are floored with timber. One angle turret
seems to have been wholly occupied by garderobes, and the lower part, at
present filled with light soil, was evidently a large cesspool. At Corfe a very
large garderobe tower,—perhaps a Norman addition,—is appended to one
side of the keep.
Most keeps, even early ones, contain fireplaces. One has been discovered
in the Tower, long supposed to be without them. At Dover they are in the
cross-wall; at Rochester, where they are very handsome, in the sides.
Usually the funnel ascends in the wall; at Rochester and Colchester it forks,
and the two flues open a little way up on the face of the wall, concealed in
the hollow angle of a pilaster. It is not easy to tell whether a flue is original
when the fittings of the fireplace have been inserted; thus, in the Tower
closets, where the fireplaces are Tudor, there are no marks in the wall as
though it had been cut into to construct a flue, so these may represent
original fireplaces, though this is not probable. No doubt open hearths were
much used, and fireplaces of iron with flues of wood and plaster, which
would leave no trace when removed. The fireplaces in the mural chambers
at Dover seem all to be of Tudor date. No fireplace has been discovered in
Richmond keep; there is an original one in a mural chamber at Bowes.
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These keeps, built mainly for security, have but few external openings,
and those rarely of any size. Sometimes the narrowest part of the loop is in
the centre of the wall, with a splay each way, having the section of an hour-
glass. This is seen at Kenilworth and Porchester, late keeps. The
arrangement seems a bad one, much aiding the entrance of an arrow. The
larger windows, sometimes of 3 ft. or 4 ft. opening, were closed with
shutters.
A well was an important accessory to a Norman keep. In Dover there are
two—one being in the forebuilding. Sometimes, as at Bamburgh and Castle
Rising, its mouth is at the ground level. More frequently its pipe is
contained within the wall, and opens into a special well-chamber, as at
Dover, Newcastle, and Kenilworth. At Carlisle it is in the wall, and was
reached by an internal lateral opening, now converted into an external one.
At Rochester it is in the cross-wall; the pipe there ascends to the summit,
and has an opening at each floor, and there are traces of some such
arrangement at Canterbury. At Porchester the well occupies one angle of the
wall, and opens on each floor. At Colchester the well, long closed, has been
discovered. It is in the basement, near the entrance. At Hedingham there is
known to be a well, but its place is lost. At Bamburgh, one of the most
remarkable wells in the country, carried down 145 ft. in whin rock, was
only discovered in the last century. At Richmond a hollow octagonal pier,
carrying the vault, has been built exactly over the well, which is reached
through it. At Arques, in Normandy, where the well is near one angle, a pipe
has been built over it, raising the mouth to the first floor. At Bowes,
Brough, Brougham, Guildford, Castleton, and Corfe, no well has been
discovered, and it is only very recently that one has been laid open in the
White Tower, in London.
Great pains were usually taken to cover the entrances of these keeps by a
forebuilding, the details of which have been but little studied. Upon one
side of the keep, but a part of its structure, was placed a smaller tower, also
rectangular, of the length—that is, covering one side—and about one third
of the breadth, of the keep, and two thirds of its height. At one end, at the
ground level, commenced a straight staircase which rose to near the other
end when it stopped at a landing which was the vestibule of the actual
entrance to the keep. Above the lowest part of the staircase was a low tower
and a strong doorway. Halfway up the staircase was often a second
and those rarely of any size. Sometimes the narrowest part of the loop is in
the centre of the wall, with a splay each way, having the section of an hour-
glass. This is seen at Kenilworth and Porchester, late keeps. The
arrangement seems a bad one, much aiding the entrance of an arrow. The
larger windows, sometimes of 3 ft. or 4 ft. opening, were closed with
shutters.
A well was an important accessory to a Norman keep. In Dover there are
two—one being in the forebuilding. Sometimes, as at Bamburgh and Castle
Rising, its mouth is at the ground level. More frequently its pipe is
contained within the wall, and opens into a special well-chamber, as at
Dover, Newcastle, and Kenilworth. At Carlisle it is in the wall, and was
reached by an internal lateral opening, now converted into an external one.
At Rochester it is in the cross-wall; the pipe there ascends to the summit,
and has an opening at each floor, and there are traces of some such
arrangement at Canterbury. At Porchester the well occupies one angle of the
wall, and opens on each floor. At Colchester the well, long closed, has been
discovered. It is in the basement, near the entrance. At Hedingham there is
known to be a well, but its place is lost. At Bamburgh, one of the most
remarkable wells in the country, carried down 145 ft. in whin rock, was
only discovered in the last century. At Richmond a hollow octagonal pier,
carrying the vault, has been built exactly over the well, which is reached
through it. At Arques, in Normandy, where the well is near one angle, a pipe
has been built over it, raising the mouth to the first floor. At Bowes,
Brough, Brougham, Guildford, Castleton, and Corfe, no well has been
discovered, and it is only very recently that one has been laid open in the
White Tower, in London.
Great pains were usually taken to cover the entrances of these keeps by a
forebuilding, the details of which have been but little studied. Upon one
side of the keep, but a part of its structure, was placed a smaller tower, also
rectangular, of the length—that is, covering one side—and about one third
of the breadth, of the keep, and two thirds of its height. At one end, at the
ground level, commenced a straight staircase which rose to near the other
end when it stopped at a landing which was the vestibule of the actual
entrance to the keep. Above the lowest part of the staircase was a low tower
and a strong doorway. Halfway up the staircase was often a second
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doorway, and sometimes, as at Dover, a second tower. Over the landing at
the stair-head was a larger and taller tower, also with a strong doorway.
Outside this doorway the staircase was often broken by a drawbridge, as at
Rochester. The staircase was not always covered over, but was protected by
an exterior parapet of some height, as at Berkeley, where the shell keep has
a forebuilding, a very unusual example. The battlements of the lower or
entrance tower were reached by a little door in the adjacent angle of the
keep high up. This is seen at Rochester, and at Middleham and Brougham,
where the tower itself is removed. In the keep-wall by the side of the
staircase was often a recess for the guard, as at Middleham. The bridge-pit
had an exterior parapet concealing those who used the bridge. At Castle
Rising where the middle gate is perfect, its battlements are reached by a
small door from the keep.
The vestibule at the stair-head was usually a good-sized chamber, often
vaulted. In it was the main doorway of the keep, of not less than 6 feet
opening, with flanking shafts and moulded architrave. At Castle Rising this
ante-chamber is arcaded, and very handsome; at Rochester it is plain, or
nearly so. At Dover it contains a guard-chamber, at Newcastle and at
Middleham a chapel. The basement below the vestibule was usually a
prison, and had a small door into the corresponding basement of the keep.
At Rochester are two floors below the vestibule and two above it. The
forebuilding is perfect only at Castle Rising, Norwich, Dover, and
Newcastle; there are large remains of it at Rochester, Porchester, and
Middleham, and some at Hedingham, Corfe, and Kenilworth. At
Scarborough, Brougham, Bramber, Canterbury, and Helmsley there are
traces only. At Dover there are vaults below the staircase and lower tower,
above which is a vestibule and a chapel, and in the first or upper floor a
second chapel. Sometimes there is a way from the foot of the staircase of
the forebuilding into the basement of the keep, but probably this is not
original. It is seen at Dover, Newcastle, and Castle Rising. The White
Tower has been so pulled about that it is difficult to say how it was
originally entered. The forebuilding is essentially a Norman appendage,
and, with the exception of Berkeley, and, perhaps, Chilham and Orford,
confined to keeps of the rectangular pattern. It has been supposed to mark a
late keep, but there is a forebuilding at Arques usually regarded as a very
early one.
the stair-head was a larger and taller tower, also with a strong doorway.
Outside this doorway the staircase was often broken by a drawbridge, as at
Rochester. The staircase was not always covered over, but was protected by
an exterior parapet of some height, as at Berkeley, where the shell keep has
a forebuilding, a very unusual example. The battlements of the lower or
entrance tower were reached by a little door in the adjacent angle of the
keep high up. This is seen at Rochester, and at Middleham and Brougham,
where the tower itself is removed. In the keep-wall by the side of the
staircase was often a recess for the guard, as at Middleham. The bridge-pit
had an exterior parapet concealing those who used the bridge. At Castle
Rising where the middle gate is perfect, its battlements are reached by a
small door from the keep.
The vestibule at the stair-head was usually a good-sized chamber, often
vaulted. In it was the main doorway of the keep, of not less than 6 feet
opening, with flanking shafts and moulded architrave. At Castle Rising this
ante-chamber is arcaded, and very handsome; at Rochester it is plain, or
nearly so. At Dover it contains a guard-chamber, at Newcastle and at
Middleham a chapel. The basement below the vestibule was usually a
prison, and had a small door into the corresponding basement of the keep.
At Rochester are two floors below the vestibule and two above it. The
forebuilding is perfect only at Castle Rising, Norwich, Dover, and
Newcastle; there are large remains of it at Rochester, Porchester, and
Middleham, and some at Hedingham, Corfe, and Kenilworth. At
Scarborough, Brougham, Bramber, Canterbury, and Helmsley there are
traces only. At Dover there are vaults below the staircase and lower tower,
above which is a vestibule and a chapel, and in the first or upper floor a
second chapel. Sometimes there is a way from the foot of the staircase of
the forebuilding into the basement of the keep, but probably this is not
original. It is seen at Dover, Newcastle, and Castle Rising. The White
Tower has been so pulled about that it is difficult to say how it was
originally entered. The forebuilding is essentially a Norman appendage,
and, with the exception of Berkeley, and, perhaps, Chilham and Orford,
confined to keeps of the rectangular pattern. It has been supposed to mark a
late keep, but there is a forebuilding at Arques usually regarded as a very
early one.
Page 146
In the smaller keeps, and some few of the larger ones, there is no
forebuilding, and the entrance is by a plain arch, as at Clitheroe, Goderich,
Bowes, Guildford, and Malling. This entrance was on the first floor. In the
latter case it is, indeed, in the basement, but nevertheless 10 feet above the
ground level. The approach in these cases seems to have been by an
external staircase of timber. At Chepstow, Carlisle, Bamburgh, and Ludlow,
the entrance was by a single doorway at the ground level. In almost all the
larger keeps it has been found convenient—probably when they ceased to
be used solely as military buildings—to have a large direct entrance at the
ground level. Such have been made at London, Rochester, Norham,
Kenilworth, Porchester, Guildford, Clitheroe, Hedingham, Colchester,
Goderich, Canterbury, Brough, and Malling, and probably Chepstow. Some
of these are evidently insertions, taking the place of a loop; others seem to
have been original doors opening from the basement of the keep into that of
the forebuilding, made external on its destruction, as at Corfe and, perhaps,
Kenilworth. At Richmond the removal of the forebuilding has laid open a
large Norman arch in the basement which opened into it. Besides these
main doors, Ludlow has two doors opening from the keep upon the
ramparts of the curtain; and at Rochester is a small door whence probably a
plank drawbridge, six feet or eight feet long, dropped upon the adjacent
curtain. There is something like this at Helmsley, and in the Norman keep
of Adare, in Ireland.
Most keeps contain an oratory; some a regular chapel. Dover is peculiar
in having two, both in the forebuilding, in its lower tower. Newcastle has
one in its forebuilding, under the staircase and upper tower. Middleham has
the remains of a very handsome one at the head of the outer staircase. At
Rochester the chapel seems to have been in the forebuilding, high up,
beneath the kitchen. At Castle Rising it is on the first floor of the keep, at
one end of one of the large rooms. At Guildford and Brougham it was in the
wall. The finest and earliest castle-chapel in England is that in the White
Tower. It is large, has a nave, aisles, and semi-circular apse, all vaulted.
This chapel occupies two stories, and below it are two floors of vaulted
crypts, intended for prisons. The chapel at Colchester, though smaller and
ruder, resembles in position that in the White Tower.
Of the three drawings here given, the first gives the plan of the White
Tower, London, at the second or chapel floor. The three well staircases are
forebuilding, and the entrance is by a plain arch, as at Clitheroe, Goderich,
Bowes, Guildford, and Malling. This entrance was on the first floor. In the
latter case it is, indeed, in the basement, but nevertheless 10 feet above the
ground level. The approach in these cases seems to have been by an
external staircase of timber. At Chepstow, Carlisle, Bamburgh, and Ludlow,
the entrance was by a single doorway at the ground level. In almost all the
larger keeps it has been found convenient—probably when they ceased to
be used solely as military buildings—to have a large direct entrance at the
ground level. Such have been made at London, Rochester, Norham,
Kenilworth, Porchester, Guildford, Clitheroe, Hedingham, Colchester,
Goderich, Canterbury, Brough, and Malling, and probably Chepstow. Some
of these are evidently insertions, taking the place of a loop; others seem to
have been original doors opening from the basement of the keep into that of
the forebuilding, made external on its destruction, as at Corfe and, perhaps,
Kenilworth. At Richmond the removal of the forebuilding has laid open a
large Norman arch in the basement which opened into it. Besides these
main doors, Ludlow has two doors opening from the keep upon the
ramparts of the curtain; and at Rochester is a small door whence probably a
plank drawbridge, six feet or eight feet long, dropped upon the adjacent
curtain. There is something like this at Helmsley, and in the Norman keep
of Adare, in Ireland.
Most keeps contain an oratory; some a regular chapel. Dover is peculiar
in having two, both in the forebuilding, in its lower tower. Newcastle has
one in its forebuilding, under the staircase and upper tower. Middleham has
the remains of a very handsome one at the head of the outer staircase. At
Rochester the chapel seems to have been in the forebuilding, high up,
beneath the kitchen. At Castle Rising it is on the first floor of the keep, at
one end of one of the large rooms. At Guildford and Brougham it was in the
wall. The finest and earliest castle-chapel in England is that in the White
Tower. It is large, has a nave, aisles, and semi-circular apse, all vaulted.
This chapel occupies two stories, and below it are two floors of vaulted
crypts, intended for prisons. The chapel at Colchester, though smaller and
ruder, resembles in position that in the White Tower.
Of the three drawings here given, the first gives the plan of the White
Tower, London, at the second or chapel floor. The three well staircases are
Page 147
there seen, and the outer and cross walls. Here also is shown, in the south
wall, the small mural staircase which ends at this level, and affords the only
communication with the main floor of the chapel.
The next drawing shows a plan of the third or uppermost floor, at the
level of the clerestory of the chapel. Here the outer wall is shown perforated
all round by a mural gallery, which communicates with the three well
staircases and with the chapel.
wall, the small mural staircase which ends at this level, and affords the only
communication with the main floor of the chapel.
The next drawing shows a plan of the third or uppermost floor, at the
level of the clerestory of the chapel. Here the outer wall is shown perforated
all round by a mural gallery, which communicates with the three well
staircases and with the chapel.
Page 148
Finally follows a vertical section of the whole keep from east to west, in
which is shown the chapel with its clerestory above and its two tiers of
crypts below. These drawings, which more especially belong to the detailed
description of the Tower of London which follows in its place, are here
inserted as illustrating what is written of Norman rectangular keeps in
general.
The kitchen, though a necessary appendage to a keep, is not often to be
discovered. Probably the cooking was of a simple character, mostly carried
on before an open fire, or by boiling, or broiling over a brazier. There is a
kitchen in the forebuilding at Rochester, high up; and one at the first-floor
which is shown the chapel with its clerestory above and its two tiers of
crypts below. These drawings, which more especially belong to the detailed
description of the Tower of London which follows in its place, are here
inserted as illustrating what is written of Norman rectangular keeps in
general.
The kitchen, though a necessary appendage to a keep, is not often to be
discovered. Probably the cooking was of a simple character, mostly carried
on before an open fire, or by boiling, or broiling over a brazier. There is a
kitchen in the forebuilding at Rochester, high up; and one at the first-floor
Page 149
level in a mural chamber, at Castle Rising and at Norwich. The kitchen
when it was in a distinct chamber was at the level of the hall, or even above
it.
The defences of the outer doorway in a Norman keep were usually one or
two stout doors of oak, strengthened with iron, and held close by one or two
bars, also of oak, which ran back into deep holes in the wall about four
inches square. The herse or portcullis, though used in other parts of castles,
was rare in the keep. It is a very old method of defence, formed of stone in
the Great Pyramid, and the groove for which remains in the city gate of
Pompeii. When employed, as in the keeps of Scarborough, Hedingham, and
Rochester, it was a single grate, probably of oak spiked and plated with
iron, and it was worked from a mural chamber over the archway.
Sometimes, from the narrow dimensions of the groove, the grate seems to
have been wholly of iron. It was worked by chains or cords wrapped round
a cylinder or windlass, such as is still in use in the main gate-house of the
Tower. Norman keeps very seldom retain their original parapets or turrets.
The parapet was about two feet thick and five feet high. It was either plain
or had broad merlons and narrow embrasures. Usually it was a mere
continuation of the wall, without corbels or any contrivance to widen the
rampart walls, which were of sufficient thickness for the walk. At
Rochester, holes are seen at the base of the parapet for beams to carry a
brétasche or external gallery, but these probably are not original. The angle
turrets are usually mere places of arms, the rampart walks passing through
them. Sometimes they have an upper floor reached by a stone stair or a
movable ladder.
Much has been said of Norman dungeons, oubliettes, and subterranean
vaults, damp and wretched, appliances of Norman tyranny. So far as these
keeps are concerned in the matter, they never contain underground
chambers of any kind. The basement floor is usually at the ground level, or
at most two feet or three feet below it. Where the keep is built on rising
ground it may happen that a chamber, the door of which is at the ground
level, may have one wall half buried beneath the soil, but there is nothing
beyond this. Prisoners of the common sort were not shut up in the keep,
space there was too valuable. The basement could scarce have been used as
a prison where it contained the castle well, and the mural chambers usually
are barred inside. The rooms under the vestibule, and some of the lower
when it was in a distinct chamber was at the level of the hall, or even above
it.
The defences of the outer doorway in a Norman keep were usually one or
two stout doors of oak, strengthened with iron, and held close by one or two
bars, also of oak, which ran back into deep holes in the wall about four
inches square. The herse or portcullis, though used in other parts of castles,
was rare in the keep. It is a very old method of defence, formed of stone in
the Great Pyramid, and the groove for which remains in the city gate of
Pompeii. When employed, as in the keeps of Scarborough, Hedingham, and
Rochester, it was a single grate, probably of oak spiked and plated with
iron, and it was worked from a mural chamber over the archway.
Sometimes, from the narrow dimensions of the groove, the grate seems to
have been wholly of iron. It was worked by chains or cords wrapped round
a cylinder or windlass, such as is still in use in the main gate-house of the
Tower. Norman keeps very seldom retain their original parapets or turrets.
The parapet was about two feet thick and five feet high. It was either plain
or had broad merlons and narrow embrasures. Usually it was a mere
continuation of the wall, without corbels or any contrivance to widen the
rampart walls, which were of sufficient thickness for the walk. At
Rochester, holes are seen at the base of the parapet for beams to carry a
brétasche or external gallery, but these probably are not original. The angle
turrets are usually mere places of arms, the rampart walks passing through
them. Sometimes they have an upper floor reached by a stone stair or a
movable ladder.
Much has been said of Norman dungeons, oubliettes, and subterranean
vaults, damp and wretched, appliances of Norman tyranny. So far as these
keeps are concerned in the matter, they never contain underground
chambers of any kind. The basement floor is usually at the ground level, or
at most two feet or three feet below it. Where the keep is built on rising
ground it may happen that a chamber, the door of which is at the ground
level, may have one wall half buried beneath the soil, but there is nothing
beyond this. Prisoners of the common sort were not shut up in the keep,
space there was too valuable. The basement could scarce have been used as
a prison where it contained the castle well, and the mural chambers usually
are barred inside. The rooms under the vestibule, and some of the lower
Page 150
vaults at Dover, and the crypts of the Tower of London, and at Colchester,
probably were used as prisons. In the upper gallery at Dover there is a very
evident prison. At Carlisle, where the basement has recently been used as a
prison, it probably was not one originally. Large as some of the keeps were,
they were not calculated to be held against a long siege or a blockade, and
all the spare room would then be needed for provisions and stores. The
earlier keeps are very plain. The Tower has not even a moulding save in the
chapel, and an exterior blocking over its main tier of windows. No doubt it
has been much mutilated, but, had the ornaments been cut off, the courses
of freestone that carried them would still be distinguishable from the
ordinary rubble masonry. Some of the later keeps exhibit rather rich details,
though usually marked by much simplicity, about the doors, windows, and
fireplaces. Such is the case at Rochester, Hedingham, Dover and Newcastle,
and specially at Castle Rising, one of the most highly ornamented of keeps.
Bamburgh has a fine doorway early in the twelfth century; Ludlow and
Guildford some arcades; Porchester some good windows. The exterior of
Norwich is, or rather was, rudely panelled in tiers of arches. Goderich,
otherwise very plain, has an exterior string of hatched or chevron work. In
these keeps the arches are usually full-centred, but sometimes segmental,
and where flat there is commonly above the lintel a relieving arch with a
recessed tympanum, as at Chepstow. At Malling, though there are no
mouldings, the first-floor window on one side is the centre of five deep
plain full-centred niches in the exterior face, which cannot have been meant
for use, and in another face, also outside, are five other niches, all
unpierced. Occasionally false arches are turned in the walls, as though a
door had been closed up, or the possibility of a new opening provided for.
Such are seen at Dover, Norwich, and Guildford. They are thought, but
scarcely on good grounds, to be intended to invite an attack where the wall
is specially thick.
One or two keeps have buttresses of bold projection, greatly in contrast to
the usual flat pilaster. This is so at Colchester and at Arques, where the
exterior stair passes through one of them. At Arques also these buttresses
are turned to account in the upper story, arches being thrown across from
buttress to buttress, upon which are built chambers, and on one face a
chapel, through the floor of which missiles could be dropped upon the
assailants below. Arques, unfortunately, is built of chalk and flint with little
probably were used as prisons. In the upper gallery at Dover there is a very
evident prison. At Carlisle, where the basement has recently been used as a
prison, it probably was not one originally. Large as some of the keeps were,
they were not calculated to be held against a long siege or a blockade, and
all the spare room would then be needed for provisions and stores. The
earlier keeps are very plain. The Tower has not even a moulding save in the
chapel, and an exterior blocking over its main tier of windows. No doubt it
has been much mutilated, but, had the ornaments been cut off, the courses
of freestone that carried them would still be distinguishable from the
ordinary rubble masonry. Some of the later keeps exhibit rather rich details,
though usually marked by much simplicity, about the doors, windows, and
fireplaces. Such is the case at Rochester, Hedingham, Dover and Newcastle,
and specially at Castle Rising, one of the most highly ornamented of keeps.
Bamburgh has a fine doorway early in the twelfth century; Ludlow and
Guildford some arcades; Porchester some good windows. The exterior of
Norwich is, or rather was, rudely panelled in tiers of arches. Goderich,
otherwise very plain, has an exterior string of hatched or chevron work. In
these keeps the arches are usually full-centred, but sometimes segmental,
and where flat there is commonly above the lintel a relieving arch with a
recessed tympanum, as at Chepstow. At Malling, though there are no
mouldings, the first-floor window on one side is the centre of five deep
plain full-centred niches in the exterior face, which cannot have been meant
for use, and in another face, also outside, are five other niches, all
unpierced. Occasionally false arches are turned in the walls, as though a
door had been closed up, or the possibility of a new opening provided for.
Such are seen at Dover, Norwich, and Guildford. They are thought, but
scarcely on good grounds, to be intended to invite an attack where the wall
is specially thick.
One or two keeps have buttresses of bold projection, greatly in contrast to
the usual flat pilaster. This is so at Colchester and at Arques, where the
exterior stair passes through one of them. At Arques also these buttresses
are turned to account in the upper story, arches being thrown across from
buttress to buttress, upon which are built chambers, and on one face a
chapel, through the floor of which missiles could be dropped upon the
assailants below. Arques, unfortunately, is built of chalk and flint with little
Page 151
or no original ashlar, and it is, in consequence, difficult to decide between
what is original and what has been added.
Norman keeps differ in workmanship as in material. The White Tower,
built in great haste, is of rubble, rudely coursed, with very open joints; but
the plinth, quoins, and pilasters seem to have been of Kentish rag, dressed
as ashlar, and also open jointed. Malling is an excellent example of very
early Norman rubble, with open joints, and this may also be said of a part of
the adjacent abbey church, and perhaps of the tower of the parish church.
Guildford contains a good deal of herring-bone work; Chepstow and
Penllyne a little. Colchester is partly built of old Roman materials, chiefly
brick, and contains some herring-bone work. In the chalk districts flint was
largely used, as at Bramber, Dover, Hastings, Canterbury, Thurnham,
Berkhamsted, Bungay, and Walden. In the south, or near the sea, the ashlar
is often in small blocks from Caen. Corfe is of excellent local ashlar, as is
most of Kenilworth. Porchester is of chalk and flint rubble, faced with
ashlar outside and partially inside. Hedingham is all ashlar, and altogether
the finest keep in England. Bowes is a fine example of ashlar, in a local
stone. Whatever Norman masonry may be in church towers, in keeps it is
always sound, though often rough, and is very durable. Now and then chain
courses of timber are inserted in the heart of the walls, to hold the work
together till the mortar shall have set, and it has happened that the wall has
been breached and the exposed timbers have been found to have rotted
away, leaving cavities, as at Rochester, concerning the use of which much
nonsense has been written.
In considering the limited and very inconvenient accommodation
afforded by a Norman keep, it should be remembered that it was not meant
for a residence, save during an actual siege, and that at such times it often
only received the baron’s armed tenants, and not his mercenaries. Indeed,
the builders of some of these keeps seem to have mistrusted their own
troops as much as they feared those of the enemy. The staircases and
galleries are often contrived quite as much to check free communication
between the several parts of the building as between its inside and its
outside. Further, the excessive jealousy in guarding the entrance, the
multiplied doors, the steep and winding staircases, the sharp turns in the
passages, although they helped to keep out an enemy, or, if he got in, placed
him at a disadvantage, also rendered impracticable the rapid re-entry of the
what is original and what has been added.
Norman keeps differ in workmanship as in material. The White Tower,
built in great haste, is of rubble, rudely coursed, with very open joints; but
the plinth, quoins, and pilasters seem to have been of Kentish rag, dressed
as ashlar, and also open jointed. Malling is an excellent example of very
early Norman rubble, with open joints, and this may also be said of a part of
the adjacent abbey church, and perhaps of the tower of the parish church.
Guildford contains a good deal of herring-bone work; Chepstow and
Penllyne a little. Colchester is partly built of old Roman materials, chiefly
brick, and contains some herring-bone work. In the chalk districts flint was
largely used, as at Bramber, Dover, Hastings, Canterbury, Thurnham,
Berkhamsted, Bungay, and Walden. In the south, or near the sea, the ashlar
is often in small blocks from Caen. Corfe is of excellent local ashlar, as is
most of Kenilworth. Porchester is of chalk and flint rubble, faced with
ashlar outside and partially inside. Hedingham is all ashlar, and altogether
the finest keep in England. Bowes is a fine example of ashlar, in a local
stone. Whatever Norman masonry may be in church towers, in keeps it is
always sound, though often rough, and is very durable. Now and then chain
courses of timber are inserted in the heart of the walls, to hold the work
together till the mortar shall have set, and it has happened that the wall has
been breached and the exposed timbers have been found to have rotted
away, leaving cavities, as at Rochester, concerning the use of which much
nonsense has been written.
In considering the limited and very inconvenient accommodation
afforded by a Norman keep, it should be remembered that it was not meant
for a residence, save during an actual siege, and that at such times it often
only received the baron’s armed tenants, and not his mercenaries. Indeed,
the builders of some of these keeps seem to have mistrusted their own
troops as much as they feared those of the enemy. The staircases and
galleries are often contrived quite as much to check free communication
between the several parts of the building as between its inside and its
outside. Further, the excessive jealousy in guarding the entrance, the
multiplied doors, the steep and winding staircases, the sharp turns in the
passages, although they helped to keep out an enemy, or, if he got in, placed
him at a disadvantage, also rendered impracticable the rapid re-entry of the
Page 152
garrison, so that if the court or outer ward were taken by assault, the
defenders had scant time to retire into the keep, which was thus liable to a
coup de main. Otherwise, with a sufficient and faithful garrison, and ample
provision and military stores, a Norman rectangular keep was almost
impregnable, so great was its passive strength. Its windows were too small
or too high for their shutters to be reached by fire-balls, and its walls were
too thick to be breached or mined, if properly defended from the summit.
This, indeed, was the true method of defence. An ordinary loop in a thick
wall, however widely splayed, admitted of but little scope for an archer, or
space to draw his bow. The lower loops were entirely for air, not for
defence. Higher up, with larger windows, a bow could be used with
advantage, but there were no flanking defences, for the angles had no
considerable projection, and the shoulders, or lateral faces of the pilasters,
were not pierced. With military engines for throwing heavy stones and
masses of rock from the roof much might have been effected, but in the
early keeps this was not contemplated, and probably not to any great extent
in the later ones. An arrow shot from a battlement 50 feet or 70 feet high
would lose some of its force in the descent. Of the siege of Rochester
certain particulars are on record, and the account of the operations of the
besiegers is confirmed by the evidence afforded by the existing keep.
Rochester keep stands but 10 feet or 12 feet from the south-east angle of the
outer wall, the angle of the keep corresponding with that of the wall. The
angle of the wall and part of the adjacent curtain have evidently been
removed and rebuilt, with the capping tower, in a later style. Opposite and
behind this newer work, the lower part of the angle of the keep has also, at
some remote time, fallen away, and with it a few yards of the adjacent sides.
These parts have been rebuilt in a rude and slovenly manner, and the
junction of the old and new work is very evident. This keep was built about
1130, and besieged by King John for three months in 1215. Military engines
produced little effect upon it, but a mine was opened which, says Wendover,
first brought down the walls and then a part of the tower. This is what we
now see. The keep seems to have been repaired in haste at once, the outer
wall probably not till 1225, when Henry III. spent considerable sums upon
the castle, and the capping-tower of the curtain is of that date. The attack by
sap was the only one to be employed against a rectangular keep, and was
rarely practicable. Where, as was often the case, the keep stood upon a rock,
the running a mine below it would produce no effect. Where this was not
defenders had scant time to retire into the keep, which was thus liable to a
coup de main. Otherwise, with a sufficient and faithful garrison, and ample
provision and military stores, a Norman rectangular keep was almost
impregnable, so great was its passive strength. Its windows were too small
or too high for their shutters to be reached by fire-balls, and its walls were
too thick to be breached or mined, if properly defended from the summit.
This, indeed, was the true method of defence. An ordinary loop in a thick
wall, however widely splayed, admitted of but little scope for an archer, or
space to draw his bow. The lower loops were entirely for air, not for
defence. Higher up, with larger windows, a bow could be used with
advantage, but there were no flanking defences, for the angles had no
considerable projection, and the shoulders, or lateral faces of the pilasters,
were not pierced. With military engines for throwing heavy stones and
masses of rock from the roof much might have been effected, but in the
early keeps this was not contemplated, and probably not to any great extent
in the later ones. An arrow shot from a battlement 50 feet or 70 feet high
would lose some of its force in the descent. Of the siege of Rochester
certain particulars are on record, and the account of the operations of the
besiegers is confirmed by the evidence afforded by the existing keep.
Rochester keep stands but 10 feet or 12 feet from the south-east angle of the
outer wall, the angle of the keep corresponding with that of the wall. The
angle of the wall and part of the adjacent curtain have evidently been
removed and rebuilt, with the capping tower, in a later style. Opposite and
behind this newer work, the lower part of the angle of the keep has also, at
some remote time, fallen away, and with it a few yards of the adjacent sides.
These parts have been rebuilt in a rude and slovenly manner, and the
junction of the old and new work is very evident. This keep was built about
1130, and besieged by King John for three months in 1215. Military engines
produced little effect upon it, but a mine was opened which, says Wendover,
first brought down the walls and then a part of the tower. This is what we
now see. The keep seems to have been repaired in haste at once, the outer
wall probably not till 1225, when Henry III. spent considerable sums upon
the castle, and the capping-tower of the curtain is of that date. The attack by
sap was the only one to be employed against a rectangular keep, and was
rarely practicable. Where, as was often the case, the keep stood upon a rock,
the running a mine below it would produce no effect. Where this was not
Page 153
the case, the foundations of the wall were so broad and so solidified as to
stand even when much of the soil beneath them was removed. At the White
Tower, for example, when it was found convenient to bring a railway from
the river quay into the base of the keep for the shipment of stores, about 20
feet of solid masonry had to be cut through, and much earth removed, and
this, with every aid, was found to be a very tedious and expensive
operation. The defence of such a keep was its passive strength alone. The
loops were nothing in its defence; the roof being on a slope and of shingle
would support no military engine and no great store of stones or heavy
missiles. The narrow doorway did not allow of a sally in force, and when
seriously attacked the garrison had no resource but to trust to the thickness
of their walls, their ample supply of water, their magazines of provisions,
and thus patiently to await relief.
Such are the details of the rectangular Norman keeps, of which we have
in England about fifty extant or well-recorded examples, dating from the
year 1078, when the White Tower was begun, to about the year 1180, to
which may be attributed the keep of Helmsley.
LIST (APPROXIMATIVE) OF RECTANGULAR KEEPS IN ENGLAND.
stand even when much of the soil beneath them was removed. At the White
Tower, for example, when it was found convenient to bring a railway from
the river quay into the base of the keep for the shipment of stores, about 20
feet of solid masonry had to be cut through, and much earth removed, and
this, with every aid, was found to be a very tedious and expensive
operation. The defence of such a keep was its passive strength alone. The
loops were nothing in its defence; the roof being on a slope and of shingle
would support no military engine and no great store of stones or heavy
missiles. The narrow doorway did not allow of a sally in force, and when
seriously attacked the garrison had no resource but to trust to the thickness
of their walls, their ample supply of water, their magazines of provisions,
and thus patiently to await relief.
Such are the details of the rectangular Norman keeps, of which we have
in England about fifty extant or well-recorded examples, dating from the
year 1078, when the White Tower was begun, to about the year 1180, to
which may be attributed the keep of Helmsley.
LIST (APPROXIMATIVE) OF RECTANGULAR KEEPS IN ENGLAND.
Page 154
Cheshire.—Chester.
Cornwall.—Carnbrè (?).
Cumberland.—Carlisle.
Derbyshire.—Castleton.
Devon.—Okehampton (?).
Dorset.—Corfe, Sherborne.
Durham.—Norham.
Essex.—Colchester, Hedingham, Walden.
Gloucestershire.—Bristol (destroyed).
Hants.—Christchurch, Porchester, Wolvesey.
Hereford.—Goderich.
Kent.—Canterbury, Dover, Malling, Rochester, Thurnham.
Lancashire.—Clitheroe, Lancaster.
Middlesex.—The Tower.
Monmouth.—Chepstow.
Norfolk.—Bungay, Castle Rising, Mileham, Norwich.
Northumberland.—Bamburgh, Mitford, Newcastle, Prudhoe.
Nottingham.—Nottingham (destroyed).
Salop.—Bridgnorth, Clun, Ludlow, Wattlesborough.
Somerset.—Taunton.
Surrey.—Guildford.
Sussex.—Bramber.
Wales.—Ogmore, Penllyne.
Warwickshire.—Kenilworth.
Westmoreland.—Appleby, Brough, Brougham.
Yorkshire.—Bowes, Helmsley, Middleham, Normanby (?), Richmond,
Scarborough.
Cornwall.—Carnbrè (?).
Cumberland.—Carlisle.
Derbyshire.—Castleton.
Devon.—Okehampton (?).
Dorset.—Corfe, Sherborne.
Durham.—Norham.
Essex.—Colchester, Hedingham, Walden.
Gloucestershire.—Bristol (destroyed).
Hants.—Christchurch, Porchester, Wolvesey.
Hereford.—Goderich.
Kent.—Canterbury, Dover, Malling, Rochester, Thurnham.
Lancashire.—Clitheroe, Lancaster.
Middlesex.—The Tower.
Monmouth.—Chepstow.
Norfolk.—Bungay, Castle Rising, Mileham, Norwich.
Northumberland.—Bamburgh, Mitford, Newcastle, Prudhoe.
Nottingham.—Nottingham (destroyed).
Salop.—Bridgnorth, Clun, Ludlow, Wattlesborough.
Somerset.—Taunton.
Surrey.—Guildford.
Sussex.—Bramber.
Wales.—Ogmore, Penllyne.
Warwickshire.—Kenilworth.
Westmoreland.—Appleby, Brough, Brougham.
Yorkshire.—Bowes, Helmsley, Middleham, Normanby (?), Richmond,
Scarborough.
Page 155
CHAPTER X.
OF THE SHELL KEEP.
WHILE of the rectangular keep there remain many, and some very perfect,
examples both in England and Normandy, the SHELL KEEP, though once
the most common of the two, has rarely been preserved, and is seldom, if
ever, found in a perfect or unaltered condition. There is a difference of
opinion as to the date of the introduction of these keeps, whether a little
before or a little after the other type. The shell keep, being invariably
connected with early earthworks, might be supposed to be the older form;
and Arundel, the only castle mentioned in Domesday as existing in the time
of the Confessor, has a shell keep; but a tolerably close examination has
failed to discover, either at Arundel or elsewhere in England or in
Normandy, any masonry of very early character, probably none that can
safely be attributed to the eleventh century. The fact seems to be that the
early timber structures, which are known to have been erected originally on
the moated mounds, were found to be very defensible, and so were retained
by the Norman lords until they were able to replace the timber by masonry.
The rectangular keeps were either on new sites, or on sites not defended by
very strong earthworks, so that their construction, from the first, was in
masonry, and thus it came to pass that the shells of masonry, though always
connected with the older sites, were of later date than the solid towers. Even
at Durham, a castle recorded to have been built by the Conqueror, and of
which the keep must always have been on the present mound, though the
chapel and connected buildings may be his work, the shell keep contains no
Norman masonry; and if, as is to be supposed, there was once a Norman
shell, it was probably the work of one of the Conqueror’s sons, or even of
Henry II.
A shell keep is always placed upon a mound, either natural or artificial.
Of those on natural hills, the most considerable are Belvoir, Durham, and
Lewes, but the masonry of the two former is not original, though built upon
the old lines. Dunster, the Tor of the early Lords Mohun, has been
examined, and the only trace of its keep is a fragment of a drain. Montacute,
OF THE SHELL KEEP.
WHILE of the rectangular keep there remain many, and some very perfect,
examples both in England and Normandy, the SHELL KEEP, though once
the most common of the two, has rarely been preserved, and is seldom, if
ever, found in a perfect or unaltered condition. There is a difference of
opinion as to the date of the introduction of these keeps, whether a little
before or a little after the other type. The shell keep, being invariably
connected with early earthworks, might be supposed to be the older form;
and Arundel, the only castle mentioned in Domesday as existing in the time
of the Confessor, has a shell keep; but a tolerably close examination has
failed to discover, either at Arundel or elsewhere in England or in
Normandy, any masonry of very early character, probably none that can
safely be attributed to the eleventh century. The fact seems to be that the
early timber structures, which are known to have been erected originally on
the moated mounds, were found to be very defensible, and so were retained
by the Norman lords until they were able to replace the timber by masonry.
The rectangular keeps were either on new sites, or on sites not defended by
very strong earthworks, so that their construction, from the first, was in
masonry, and thus it came to pass that the shells of masonry, though always
connected with the older sites, were of later date than the solid towers. Even
at Durham, a castle recorded to have been built by the Conqueror, and of
which the keep must always have been on the present mound, though the
chapel and connected buildings may be his work, the shell keep contains no
Norman masonry; and if, as is to be supposed, there was once a Norman
shell, it was probably the work of one of the Conqueror’s sons, or even of
Henry II.
A shell keep is always placed upon a mound, either natural or artificial.
Of those on natural hills, the most considerable are Belvoir, Durham, and
Lewes, but the masonry of the two former is not original, though built upon
the old lines. Dunster, the Tor of the early Lords Mohun, has been
examined, and the only trace of its keep is a fragment of a drain. Montacute,
Page 156
where the hill is wholly natural, has also been cleared of masonry. But by
far the larger number of these mounds are either wholly artificial, or of a
mixed character.
In plan and dimensions these keeps are roughly governed by the figure of
the mound on which they stand. Most are polygons of ten or twelve sides,
not always equal. Some are circular, others polygonal outside and circular
within. Others are slightly oval, others more complex in plan. York, for
example, approaches to a quatrefoil, 64 feet by 45 feet, and this seems to
have been the plan of the long-since destroyed keep of Warwick. Their
diameter is rarely less than 30 feet, and seldom exceeds 100 feet.
The wall was usually 8 feet to 10 feet thick, and, as a security against
settlement, was generally placed 2 feet to 3 feet within the edge of the
mound. Sometimes, as at Lincoln and Tickhill, the walls were strengthened
by flat Norman pilasters, but more commonly they were of plain rubble
with plinths and angle quoins of ashlar. Cardiff, though without a plinth, has
angle quoins, and probably dates from early in the twelfth century. The
walls of these keeps were 20 feet to 25 feet high to the rampart walk, which
was reached by open interior staircases either of wood or stone. Traces of
the latter were visible a few years ago at Cardiff. Such a shell is well suited
to be placed upon made ground, which would not have supported a solid
mass. At Cardiff, where a heavy tower was long afterwards added, it slipped
and fell. The interior of the larger keeps was an open court, around which
were placed the buildings—sometimes mere sheds—against the ring wall.
Where the keep was large and the castle important, these buildings were
permanent, though even in the greater keeps, such as York, timber was
largely used. Windsor, before the alterations, contained an open court, as
still does the keep of Ledes Castle, which is peculiar in standing upon a
small island, completely occupied by it. The present round tower at
Windsor, though modern, is built upon the lines of the Edwardian tower,
which again was built upon those of a late Norman keep, the foundations of
which were laid open by Wyattville, and found to rest upon an artificial
mound. Durham keep is said to have been originally open, but to have been
closed to accommodate the bishops, who were forced, by the disturbed state
of the country, to reside within it. The keep at York, known as Clifford’s
tower, is rather Early English than Norman, and probably succeeded a
timber structure. It much resembles some of the French keeps built by
far the larger number of these mounds are either wholly artificial, or of a
mixed character.
In plan and dimensions these keeps are roughly governed by the figure of
the mound on which they stand. Most are polygons of ten or twelve sides,
not always equal. Some are circular, others polygonal outside and circular
within. Others are slightly oval, others more complex in plan. York, for
example, approaches to a quatrefoil, 64 feet by 45 feet, and this seems to
have been the plan of the long-since destroyed keep of Warwick. Their
diameter is rarely less than 30 feet, and seldom exceeds 100 feet.
The wall was usually 8 feet to 10 feet thick, and, as a security against
settlement, was generally placed 2 feet to 3 feet within the edge of the
mound. Sometimes, as at Lincoln and Tickhill, the walls were strengthened
by flat Norman pilasters, but more commonly they were of plain rubble
with plinths and angle quoins of ashlar. Cardiff, though without a plinth, has
angle quoins, and probably dates from early in the twelfth century. The
walls of these keeps were 20 feet to 25 feet high to the rampart walk, which
was reached by open interior staircases either of wood or stone. Traces of
the latter were visible a few years ago at Cardiff. Such a shell is well suited
to be placed upon made ground, which would not have supported a solid
mass. At Cardiff, where a heavy tower was long afterwards added, it slipped
and fell. The interior of the larger keeps was an open court, around which
were placed the buildings—sometimes mere sheds—against the ring wall.
Where the keep was large and the castle important, these buildings were
permanent, though even in the greater keeps, such as York, timber was
largely used. Windsor, before the alterations, contained an open court, as
still does the keep of Ledes Castle, which is peculiar in standing upon a
small island, completely occupied by it. The present round tower at
Windsor, though modern, is built upon the lines of the Edwardian tower,
which again was built upon those of a late Norman keep, the foundations of
which were laid open by Wyattville, and found to rest upon an artificial
mound. Durham keep is said to have been originally open, but to have been
closed to accommodate the bishops, who were forced, by the disturbed state
of the country, to reside within it. The keep at York, known as Clifford’s
tower, is rather Early English than Norman, and probably succeeded a
timber structure. It much resembles some of the French keeps built by
Page 157
Philip Augustus. It has a well in the court, turnpike stairs to the ramparts,
and a chapel over the entrance, much altered in the Decorated period, and
which, as is not uncommon, serves as a portcullis chamber. At Hawarden, a
small and close, but very curious keep, the oratory is over the entrance.
Tamworth, rather an Early English than a Norman structure, was long the
actual residence of a considerable family. It is still inhabited, and contains
some crowded and curious buildings, an open court, and a well. Connected
with the keep is an earlier curtain-wall with some herring-bone work. The
approach to the keep lies along the rampart of this wall. The actual entrance
is a small, plain, pointed doorway. At Lincoln the keep is a mere Norman
shell. It is nearly circular, and has two original doorways, one (the larger)
opening from the castle area, the other opening upon the outer ditch. The
mound stands upon the enceinte line of the place, and at the points at which
the two curtains abut upon the keep are two mural chambers, which appear
to have been garderobes. At Clare the shell was a polygon of fourteen faces,
and at each angle was a buttress, triangular in plan, and of three stages,
dying into the wall. The shell was 52 feet internal diameter, and the walls 6
feet thick and 25 feet high, with four tiers of putlog holes. The foundations
of this keep are of the unusual depth of 6 feet. There is said to have been an
underground chamber, which may be doubted. The material is flint rubble,
with ashlar buttresses and dressings, but the actual masonry, though, no
doubt, generally on the old lines, does not look later than Edward III., if so
old. The mound is 53 feet high, and on the enceinte, and traversed by the
curtain. The base is about 870 feet in girth, of which about 600 feet are
outside, and 270 feet within the area.
At Alnwick the whole inner ward is a shell keep built upon a natural
knoll. The main buildings, being the lord’s lodgings, are built against and
form part of the wall, and the centre is an open court. The gatehouse is
Norman, and part of the foundations of the wall, but most of the
superstructure has been rebuilt twice over, though upon the old lines. There
is a well in the wall, probably original, but encased in late Norman
masonry. Alnwick being a sort of Castle Dangerous, and always open to
sudden attack, the lord habitually lived within the keep, which was far more
commodious than usual. Tickhill keep was a decagon, of which the
foundations remain, to the top of the plinth, with the base of a flat pilaster
capping each angle. The entrance was by a small door, just within which
and a chapel over the entrance, much altered in the Decorated period, and
which, as is not uncommon, serves as a portcullis chamber. At Hawarden, a
small and close, but very curious keep, the oratory is over the entrance.
Tamworth, rather an Early English than a Norman structure, was long the
actual residence of a considerable family. It is still inhabited, and contains
some crowded and curious buildings, an open court, and a well. Connected
with the keep is an earlier curtain-wall with some herring-bone work. The
approach to the keep lies along the rampart of this wall. The actual entrance
is a small, plain, pointed doorway. At Lincoln the keep is a mere Norman
shell. It is nearly circular, and has two original doorways, one (the larger)
opening from the castle area, the other opening upon the outer ditch. The
mound stands upon the enceinte line of the place, and at the points at which
the two curtains abut upon the keep are two mural chambers, which appear
to have been garderobes. At Clare the shell was a polygon of fourteen faces,
and at each angle was a buttress, triangular in plan, and of three stages,
dying into the wall. The shell was 52 feet internal diameter, and the walls 6
feet thick and 25 feet high, with four tiers of putlog holes. The foundations
of this keep are of the unusual depth of 6 feet. There is said to have been an
underground chamber, which may be doubted. The material is flint rubble,
with ashlar buttresses and dressings, but the actual masonry, though, no
doubt, generally on the old lines, does not look later than Edward III., if so
old. The mound is 53 feet high, and on the enceinte, and traversed by the
curtain. The base is about 870 feet in girth, of which about 600 feet are
outside, and 270 feet within the area.
At Alnwick the whole inner ward is a shell keep built upon a natural
knoll. The main buildings, being the lord’s lodgings, are built against and
form part of the wall, and the centre is an open court. The gatehouse is
Norman, and part of the foundations of the wall, but most of the
superstructure has been rebuilt twice over, though upon the old lines. There
is a well in the wall, probably original, but encased in late Norman
masonry. Alnwick being a sort of Castle Dangerous, and always open to
sudden attack, the lord habitually lived within the keep, which was far more
commodious than usual. Tickhill keep was a decagon, of which the
foundations remain, to the top of the plinth, with the base of a flat pilaster
capping each angle. The entrance was by a small door, just within which
Page 158
was the well. The mound stands on the enceinte, and the curtain runs up it
on each side. About a quarter of the girth is within the castle area, and the
rest outside. Part of Pickering keep is standing; it is late and polygonal.
Here the mound is central, and stands on the line of a curtain which divides
the area into two parts. At Ewyas-Harold, Builth, and Berkhampstead are
traces of the foundations of the keep. At Kilpeck part of the wall is
standing, and the well was within it, and is probably older than the masonry.
Farnham keep is part of an inhabited dwelling, and has not been examined.
At Oswestry is a fragment of the masonry, and at Whittington are traces
showing that the mound was revetted, and also, in Decorated times,
strengthened by four or five large mural drum towers.
The foundations of Tonbridge keep show it to have been a slightly oval
polygon, 86 feet by 76 feet, with fifteen external pilasters at the angles, and
walls 11 feet 6 inches thick. This is attributed to Bishop Odo, but the noble
gatehouse and walls below are later. The mound covers an acre, and is on
the enceinte. Arundel has a good plain Norman doorway from the castle
court, and an entrance by a gallery in the curtain from the gatehouse. Here
is a chapel on the first floor, at the junction of the curtain with the keep, and
near it is the well-chamber. The well is outside, and probably older than the
keep wall. In the wall is a turnpike stair leading to the ramparts, and near its
foot a small subterranean chamber, but both are later than the keep, and
insertions. At Oxford the mound contains a crypt, an addition; but here, as
at Wallingford, Hinckley, Leicester and Caerleon, the walls are gone, as at
Bedford, so celebrated for its siege by Henry III. The mound at Quatford,
having been the seat of Earl Roger, was, of course, fortified, though
whether by masonry is unknown. There is, however, a deep well, which
must have been within the keep. A tunnel and later flight of steps have been
cut, and descend through the skirts of the hill from the outer ward. This
passage strikes the shaft a few feet above the water level.
Berkeley, on many accounts one of the most interesting castles in
England, has a very curious shell keep, built round a mound, which thus
fills up the lower stage. The wall, the lower part of which is thus a
revetment, is strengthened by three half-round mural towers, one of which
contains the well, and above it the chapel. This keep is also remarkable for
the forebuilding covering its entrance, which contains a tower over the
lower or outer gate, at the foot of the staircase. This castle is known to have
on each side. About a quarter of the girth is within the castle area, and the
rest outside. Part of Pickering keep is standing; it is late and polygonal.
Here the mound is central, and stands on the line of a curtain which divides
the area into two parts. At Ewyas-Harold, Builth, and Berkhampstead are
traces of the foundations of the keep. At Kilpeck part of the wall is
standing, and the well was within it, and is probably older than the masonry.
Farnham keep is part of an inhabited dwelling, and has not been examined.
At Oswestry is a fragment of the masonry, and at Whittington are traces
showing that the mound was revetted, and also, in Decorated times,
strengthened by four or five large mural drum towers.
The foundations of Tonbridge keep show it to have been a slightly oval
polygon, 86 feet by 76 feet, with fifteen external pilasters at the angles, and
walls 11 feet 6 inches thick. This is attributed to Bishop Odo, but the noble
gatehouse and walls below are later. The mound covers an acre, and is on
the enceinte. Arundel has a good plain Norman doorway from the castle
court, and an entrance by a gallery in the curtain from the gatehouse. Here
is a chapel on the first floor, at the junction of the curtain with the keep, and
near it is the well-chamber. The well is outside, and probably older than the
keep wall. In the wall is a turnpike stair leading to the ramparts, and near its
foot a small subterranean chamber, but both are later than the keep, and
insertions. At Oxford the mound contains a crypt, an addition; but here, as
at Wallingford, Hinckley, Leicester and Caerleon, the walls are gone, as at
Bedford, so celebrated for its siege by Henry III. The mound at Quatford,
having been the seat of Earl Roger, was, of course, fortified, though
whether by masonry is unknown. There is, however, a deep well, which
must have been within the keep. A tunnel and later flight of steps have been
cut, and descend through the skirts of the hill from the outer ward. This
passage strikes the shaft a few feet above the water level.
Berkeley, on many accounts one of the most interesting castles in
England, has a very curious shell keep, built round a mound, which thus
fills up the lower stage. The wall, the lower part of which is thus a
revetment, is strengthened by three half-round mural towers, one of which
contains the well, and above it the chapel. This keep is also remarkable for
the forebuilding covering its entrance, which contains a tower over the
lower or outer gate, at the foot of the staircase. This castle is known to have
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been built soon after the accession of Henry II., and, though Norman, is, of
course, late in the style; Orford and Chilham, Norman keeps of a peculiar
character, also have forebuildings. The keep at Pontefract is very peculiar.
The castle covers the table-top of an oval knoll, natural, with precipitous
sides of rock. At one end, on the edge of the cliff, is placed the mound, now
encased partially in masonry. The masonry begins at the foot of the cliff, as
a sort of half-round tower, or rather a cluster of roundlets, built as a
retaining-wall. Above, the circle of masonry is completed, includes the
mound, and forms the shell keep. The base is honeycombed with passages
and chambers, cut in the rock, and partly lined with masonry. In its present
condition this keep exhibits masonry of both Decorated and Perpendicular
date, but its substance, as also some of its adjacent masonry, is evidently
late Norman.
Restormel is rather a round castle than a shell keep, and more Early
English than Norman. On the whole, however, it may be classed with the
shells. It occupies a natural knoll, and its ring-wall crests the steep slope;
against it are the buildings, and within is an open court. Launceston, also,
though Early English, belongs to the shell type. It has a central round tower,
and a concentric wall much lower, a sort of chemise, the space between the
two having been covered in with a flat roof. Possibly Montacute, built by
the same lord, may have been after the same pattern; but of Montacute even
the ruins have long since perished.
The approach to these keeps seems, in its simplest form, to have been by
a wooden bridge over the ditch on the side within the castle, and thence by
steps up the mound, as at Lincoln, where, however, they are modern, and
the ditch is partially filled up. At Tickhill, and at Hawarden, there is a flight
of steps just within, and built against the curtain. At Cardiff recent
excavations have disclosed the piles of a timber bridge, which crossed the
ditch, and may be older than the remains of the Norman keep. Cardiff,
however, thanks to the same excavations, affords an excellent example of
the more elaborate approach to a Norman shell keep. Here a thick curtain-
wall traversed the court of the castle, and crossing the ditch of the mound
was continued up its slope; just within the curtain was a drawbridge across
the ditch, beyond which a direct flight of steps led up to the keep. Here, as
at Wallingford, the well was on the slope of the mound, just within its ditch.
Usually the actual entrance to the keep was by a mere door in the wall, as at
course, late in the style; Orford and Chilham, Norman keeps of a peculiar
character, also have forebuildings. The keep at Pontefract is very peculiar.
The castle covers the table-top of an oval knoll, natural, with precipitous
sides of rock. At one end, on the edge of the cliff, is placed the mound, now
encased partially in masonry. The masonry begins at the foot of the cliff, as
a sort of half-round tower, or rather a cluster of roundlets, built as a
retaining-wall. Above, the circle of masonry is completed, includes the
mound, and forms the shell keep. The base is honeycombed with passages
and chambers, cut in the rock, and partly lined with masonry. In its present
condition this keep exhibits masonry of both Decorated and Perpendicular
date, but its substance, as also some of its adjacent masonry, is evidently
late Norman.
Restormel is rather a round castle than a shell keep, and more Early
English than Norman. On the whole, however, it may be classed with the
shells. It occupies a natural knoll, and its ring-wall crests the steep slope;
against it are the buildings, and within is an open court. Launceston, also,
though Early English, belongs to the shell type. It has a central round tower,
and a concentric wall much lower, a sort of chemise, the space between the
two having been covered in with a flat roof. Possibly Montacute, built by
the same lord, may have been after the same pattern; but of Montacute even
the ruins have long since perished.
The approach to these keeps seems, in its simplest form, to have been by
a wooden bridge over the ditch on the side within the castle, and thence by
steps up the mound, as at Lincoln, where, however, they are modern, and
the ditch is partially filled up. At Tickhill, and at Hawarden, there is a flight
of steps just within, and built against the curtain. At Cardiff recent
excavations have disclosed the piles of a timber bridge, which crossed the
ditch, and may be older than the remains of the Norman keep. Cardiff,
however, thanks to the same excavations, affords an excellent example of
the more elaborate approach to a Norman shell keep. Here a thick curtain-
wall traversed the court of the castle, and crossing the ditch of the mound
was continued up its slope; just within the curtain was a drawbridge across
the ditch, beyond which a direct flight of steps led up to the keep. Here, as
at Wallingford, the well was on the slope of the mound, just within its ditch.
Usually the actual entrance to the keep was by a mere door in the wall, as at
Page 160
Arundel, Lincoln, Tickhill, and Tamworth. At York is a regular gate-house,
a part of the shell, which was reached by a very steep bridge, crossing a
very formidable wet ditch.
It has been mentioned that these shell keeps, and the mounds on which
they stand, are usually upon, and form a part of the enceinte or line of the
outer defence of the castle, though isolated from it by their proper ditch, of
which the main ditch of the place is commonly a part. This is well shown in
the old plans of York Castle, and may be actually seen at Arundel, and many
other works both large and small, and in other mounted mounds, such as
Hên-Domen, near Montgomery, and Brinklow, which have never been
defended by masonry. It was, of course, necessary to carry the palisade, and
afterwards, if constructed, the curtain, across the ditch and up the slope of
the mound to the wall of the keep, and even where the mound was central,
as at Pickering and Cardiff, it was upon the division line of the two wards,
and, therefore, on the line of a curtain. At Berkhampstead the keep seems to
have been, not upon, but outside the line of defence, and to have formed a
sort of spurwork connected with the main curtain by a single but very thick
wall. Arundel, Durham, Lincoln, Tamworth, Tickhill, Tonbridge, Windsor,
and Wallingford, are, or were, good examples of shell keeps on the line of
the enceinte wall.
Besides any other approaches, it is evident that the curtain was always
made use of as one way to the keep, and at Arundel and Tamworth is still so
used, the parapet in front and rear protecting the rampart walk. As, however,
it was a fundamental rule in Norman castles that the keep, the final retreat,
however many its approaches, should have as few entrances as possible, the
curtain usually stopped at the top level of the mound, and was continued
only as a parapet, so that those who came along the wall had, on reaching
the keep, to pass along its outside a greater or less distance before they
reached the doorway. This is well seen at Tamworth. At Arundel the wall is
raised to the full height of the keep, as at Lincoln, but this is not usual. At
Hawarden the curtain is continued 10 feet or 12 feet high, and so abuts upon
the keep, but the rampart walk does not communicate with it.
The position of the well in these keeps has already been noticed. At York
and Tickhill it is within the area. That at Arundel is in a tower outside the
wall, but a part of it. That at Berkeley is also in a tower, a part of the wall.
a part of the shell, which was reached by a very steep bridge, crossing a
very formidable wet ditch.
It has been mentioned that these shell keeps, and the mounds on which
they stand, are usually upon, and form a part of the enceinte or line of the
outer defence of the castle, though isolated from it by their proper ditch, of
which the main ditch of the place is commonly a part. This is well shown in
the old plans of York Castle, and may be actually seen at Arundel, and many
other works both large and small, and in other mounted mounds, such as
Hên-Domen, near Montgomery, and Brinklow, which have never been
defended by masonry. It was, of course, necessary to carry the palisade, and
afterwards, if constructed, the curtain, across the ditch and up the slope of
the mound to the wall of the keep, and even where the mound was central,
as at Pickering and Cardiff, it was upon the division line of the two wards,
and, therefore, on the line of a curtain. At Berkhampstead the keep seems to
have been, not upon, but outside the line of defence, and to have formed a
sort of spurwork connected with the main curtain by a single but very thick
wall. Arundel, Durham, Lincoln, Tamworth, Tickhill, Tonbridge, Windsor,
and Wallingford, are, or were, good examples of shell keeps on the line of
the enceinte wall.
Besides any other approaches, it is evident that the curtain was always
made use of as one way to the keep, and at Arundel and Tamworth is still so
used, the parapet in front and rear protecting the rampart walk. As, however,
it was a fundamental rule in Norman castles that the keep, the final retreat,
however many its approaches, should have as few entrances as possible, the
curtain usually stopped at the top level of the mound, and was continued
only as a parapet, so that those who came along the wall had, on reaching
the keep, to pass along its outside a greater or less distance before they
reached the doorway. This is well seen at Tamworth. At Arundel the wall is
raised to the full height of the keep, as at Lincoln, but this is not usual. At
Hawarden the curtain is continued 10 feet or 12 feet high, and so abuts upon
the keep, but the rampart walk does not communicate with it.
The position of the well in these keeps has already been noticed. At York
and Tickhill it is within the area. That at Arundel is in a tower outside the
wall, but a part of it. That at Berkeley is also in a tower, a part of the wall.
Page 161
Those of Alnwick and Kilpeck are in the wall itself; those of Cardiff and
Wallingford at the foot of the mound, just within the ditch.
It is much to be regretted that so few of these shell keeps remain, even in
ruin, and very few, indeed, in a state at all approaching to their original
condition, for, as the representatives of a very early form of fortification,
and as the chief seats of very ancient estates, and of original English
families, they possess a very peculiar interest. Nor are they, when of large
size, at all wanting in a noble effect. It is true that upon level ground, as that
occupied by the Tower of London, or upon such a ridge as Corfe, or such an
elevated platform as Hedingham, the rectangular keep produces a very fine
effect, but there are positions in which this is fully equalled by the keeps of
the other type. At Durham, where the central tower of the cathedral is equal
in grandeur and simplicity to a rectangular keep, it is eclipsed by the
adjacent castle. The keep of Belvoir, which, though rebuilt and weak in its
details, retains its original outline, would be ill exchanged for the towers
even of Norham or Lancaster, and no other structure could be substituted to
advantage for the keep of Windsor, crowning and completing its “tiara of
proud towers.” Massive as is the rectangular keep, simple,
uncompromising, and warlike its features, still, even when seen to its
greatest advantage, as on the promontory of Dover or the bold impregnable
rock of Bamburgh, it must be confessed to be inferior in grandeur and in
completeness of outline to the stern round tower of other days, identified as
it is with the early residences of the adventurous Northmen who laid the
foundations of the English people.
LIST (APPROXIMATIVE) OF SHELL KEEPS, PAST OR PRESENT.
Wallingford at the foot of the mound, just within the ditch.
It is much to be regretted that so few of these shell keeps remain, even in
ruin, and very few, indeed, in a state at all approaching to their original
condition, for, as the representatives of a very early form of fortification,
and as the chief seats of very ancient estates, and of original English
families, they possess a very peculiar interest. Nor are they, when of large
size, at all wanting in a noble effect. It is true that upon level ground, as that
occupied by the Tower of London, or upon such a ridge as Corfe, or such an
elevated platform as Hedingham, the rectangular keep produces a very fine
effect, but there are positions in which this is fully equalled by the keeps of
the other type. At Durham, where the central tower of the cathedral is equal
in grandeur and simplicity to a rectangular keep, it is eclipsed by the
adjacent castle. The keep of Belvoir, which, though rebuilt and weak in its
details, retains its original outline, would be ill exchanged for the towers
even of Norham or Lancaster, and no other structure could be substituted to
advantage for the keep of Windsor, crowning and completing its “tiara of
proud towers.” Massive as is the rectangular keep, simple,
uncompromising, and warlike its features, still, even when seen to its
greatest advantage, as on the promontory of Dover or the bold impregnable
rock of Bamburgh, it must be confessed to be inferior in grandeur and in
completeness of outline to the stern round tower of other days, identified as
it is with the early residences of the adventurous Northmen who laid the
foundations of the English people.
LIST (APPROXIMATIVE) OF SHELL KEEPS, PAST OR PRESENT.
Page 162
Bedfordshire.—Bedford, Clophill, Ridgemount (?), Toddington.
Berks.—Reading (?), Wallingford, Windsor, Yieldon (?).
Buckinghamshire.—Buckingham.
Cambridgeshire.—Burwell (?), Cambridge, Ely.
Cheshire.—Dunham-Massey, Kinderton (?), Malpas (?), Mold (?).
Cornwall.—Launceston, Restormel, Trematon, Truro (?).
Derbyshire.—Sheffield (?).
Devon.—Barnstaple, Barnton, Plympton, Tiverton (?), Totnes.
Dorset.—Dorchester (?), Shaftesbury (?), Wareham.
Durham.—Durham, Elswick (?), Throston, (?), Tunstal (?), The Yoden (?).
Essex.—Bures (?), Ongar, Plessy.
Gloucestershire.—Berkeley, Gloucester (?).
Hampshire.—Basing (?), Carisbrooke, Southampton, Winchester.
Herefordshire.—Erdesley, Ewyas Harold, Hereford, Kilpeck, Richard’s
Castle, Weobley, Wigmore.
Hertfordshire.—Ansty (?), Berkhampstead, Hertford, Stansted Mount
Fitchet, Stortford.
Huntingdonshire.—Huntingdon.
Kent.—Haydon Mount (?), Kenardington (?), Ledes, Newington (?),
Tunbridge, Tong (?).
Lancashire.—Gleaston (?), Halton, Penwortham, Robin Hood’s Butt (?).
Lincolnshire.—Bourne, Lincoln, Stamford.
Monmouth.—Abergavenny, Caerleon, Crickhowell.
Northamptonshire.—Fotheringay, Lilbourne (?), Rockingham.
Northumberland.—Alnwick.
Oxfordshire.—Oxford.
Rutland.—Belvoir.
Salop.—Oswestry, Pulverbatch (?), Quatford, Shrewsbury, Whitchurch,
Whittington.
Somerset.—Castle Carey, Dunster, Montacute, Stoke Courcy.
Staffordshire.—Chartley, Stafford (?), Tutbury.
Suffolk.—Clare, Eye, Haughley, Thetford.
Sussex.—Arundel, Chichester (?), Knapp, Lewes.
Warwick.—Beldesert, Tamworth, Warwick.
Wiltshire.—Castle Combe, The Devizes, Marlborough, Old Sarum.
Worcestershire.—Worcester.
Yorkshire.—Aughton (?), Pickering, Pontefract, Sandal, Skipsea, Tadcaster,
Berks.—Reading (?), Wallingford, Windsor, Yieldon (?).
Buckinghamshire.—Buckingham.
Cambridgeshire.—Burwell (?), Cambridge, Ely.
Cheshire.—Dunham-Massey, Kinderton (?), Malpas (?), Mold (?).
Cornwall.—Launceston, Restormel, Trematon, Truro (?).
Derbyshire.—Sheffield (?).
Devon.—Barnstaple, Barnton, Plympton, Tiverton (?), Totnes.
Dorset.—Dorchester (?), Shaftesbury (?), Wareham.
Durham.—Durham, Elswick (?), Throston, (?), Tunstal (?), The Yoden (?).
Essex.—Bures (?), Ongar, Plessy.
Gloucestershire.—Berkeley, Gloucester (?).
Hampshire.—Basing (?), Carisbrooke, Southampton, Winchester.
Herefordshire.—Erdesley, Ewyas Harold, Hereford, Kilpeck, Richard’s
Castle, Weobley, Wigmore.
Hertfordshire.—Ansty (?), Berkhampstead, Hertford, Stansted Mount
Fitchet, Stortford.
Huntingdonshire.—Huntingdon.
Kent.—Haydon Mount (?), Kenardington (?), Ledes, Newington (?),
Tunbridge, Tong (?).
Lancashire.—Gleaston (?), Halton, Penwortham, Robin Hood’s Butt (?).
Lincolnshire.—Bourne, Lincoln, Stamford.
Monmouth.—Abergavenny, Caerleon, Crickhowell.
Northamptonshire.—Fotheringay, Lilbourne (?), Rockingham.
Northumberland.—Alnwick.
Oxfordshire.—Oxford.
Rutland.—Belvoir.
Salop.—Oswestry, Pulverbatch (?), Quatford, Shrewsbury, Whitchurch,
Whittington.
Somerset.—Castle Carey, Dunster, Montacute, Stoke Courcy.
Staffordshire.—Chartley, Stafford (?), Tutbury.
Suffolk.—Clare, Eye, Haughley, Thetford.
Sussex.—Arundel, Chichester (?), Knapp, Lewes.
Warwick.—Beldesert, Tamworth, Warwick.
Wiltshire.—Castle Combe, The Devizes, Marlborough, Old Sarum.
Worcestershire.—Worcester.
Yorkshire.—Aughton (?), Pickering, Pontefract, Sandal, Skipsea, Tadcaster,
Page 163
Yorkshire. Aughton (?), Pickering, Pontefract, Sandal, Skipsea, Tadcaster,
Tickhill, York.
North Wales.—Hawarden.
South Wales.—Brecknock, Builth, Cardiff, Coyty.
Thus, of 119 presumed sites of shell keeps, there are set down 31 the
evidence for which is imperfect, and 88 for the existence of which there is
good evidence, and of these about 40 actually remain in a more or less
perfect, or rather, imperfect, condition.
Tickhill, York.
North Wales.—Hawarden.
South Wales.—Brecknock, Builth, Cardiff, Coyty.
Thus, of 119 presumed sites of shell keeps, there are set down 31 the
evidence for which is imperfect, and 88 for the existence of which there is
good evidence, and of these about 40 actually remain in a more or less
perfect, or rather, imperfect, condition.
Page 164
CHAPTER XI.
CASTLES OF THE EARLY ENGLISH PERIOD.
THE transition from the Norman to the Early English style, which in
ecclesiastical architecture constitutes a period of great interest, is by no
means, at least in England, so strongly marked in buildings of the military
type. The rectangular and circular or polygonal keeps, with their Norman
features, retained their hold upon English castle-builders through the reigns
of Stephen and that of Henry II., 1135–1189, or for a century and a quarter
from the Conquest, or even later. At Dover, the dog-tooth ornament and a
bead moulding, combined with very decidedly Norman features, mark the
Transition period, as do the ornamental details of the rectangular keep of
Helmsley, and the particulars of the shell-keeps of Tamworth and York. The
later keeps are known by the increased depth of the pilasters, which become
buttresses, as at Dover and Clun, and in the twelfth-century keep of
Chambois (Orne); sometimes by their improved and fine-jointed ashlar, as
at Hedingham; by a more frequent use of the stone of the district instead of
that brought from Caen; by the presence of ribs upon the groins of the hip-
vaulting of the galleries and mural chambers; by the use of nook-shafts at
the exterior angles, as at Scarborough and Castle-Rising; and by the greater
tendency to ornament about the rib bosses, door cases, window recesses,
and fireplaces; and by the more or less Early English character of such
ornamentation. The portcullis is perhaps less rare in the later keeps. There
was, however, little change in the internal arrangement so long as the
Norman outline was retained, and but little tendency, so far as the keep was
concerned, towards flanking defences. Passive strength is still relied upon.
Little is known of the castra adulterina, of which so many score were
constructed during the reign of Stephen, and destroyed by his successor.
They could scarcely be of the solidity of the Norman keeps, else their
demolition would have been a more difficult task. They were probably
either of timber, or mere walled enclosures of no great strength. Few, if any
of them, represented the chief seats of large estates, and being built for the
most part on new sites, the earthworks were inconsiderable, and where the
CASTLES OF THE EARLY ENGLISH PERIOD.
THE transition from the Norman to the Early English style, which in
ecclesiastical architecture constitutes a period of great interest, is by no
means, at least in England, so strongly marked in buildings of the military
type. The rectangular and circular or polygonal keeps, with their Norman
features, retained their hold upon English castle-builders through the reigns
of Stephen and that of Henry II., 1135–1189, or for a century and a quarter
from the Conquest, or even later. At Dover, the dog-tooth ornament and a
bead moulding, combined with very decidedly Norman features, mark the
Transition period, as do the ornamental details of the rectangular keep of
Helmsley, and the particulars of the shell-keeps of Tamworth and York. The
later keeps are known by the increased depth of the pilasters, which become
buttresses, as at Dover and Clun, and in the twelfth-century keep of
Chambois (Orne); sometimes by their improved and fine-jointed ashlar, as
at Hedingham; by a more frequent use of the stone of the district instead of
that brought from Caen; by the presence of ribs upon the groins of the hip-
vaulting of the galleries and mural chambers; by the use of nook-shafts at
the exterior angles, as at Scarborough and Castle-Rising; and by the greater
tendency to ornament about the rib bosses, door cases, window recesses,
and fireplaces; and by the more or less Early English character of such
ornamentation. The portcullis is perhaps less rare in the later keeps. There
was, however, little change in the internal arrangement so long as the
Norman outline was retained, and but little tendency, so far as the keep was
concerned, towards flanking defences. Passive strength is still relied upon.
Little is known of the castra adulterina, of which so many score were
constructed during the reign of Stephen, and destroyed by his successor.
They could scarcely be of the solidity of the Norman keeps, else their
demolition would have been a more difficult task. They were probably
either of timber, or mere walled enclosures of no great strength. Few, if any
of them, represented the chief seats of large estates, and being built for the
most part on new sites, the earthworks were inconsiderable, and where the
Page 165
works above ground were destroyed there was little left to show where was
their site. Among the latest rectangular keeps should be mentioned the
tower at Penhow, Monmouthshire, the cradle of the house of Seymour; and
that of Fonmon, in Glamorgan, still inhabited. They are small, without
pilasters, and with scarcely any Norman features, and belong to the Early
English period, as, judging from its foundation laid open and from some
fragments dug up several years ago, did the castle of Sully, near Cardiff,
and probably that of Dunraven, in the same county, the remains of which
are built into a later house.
By degrees, as the Norman towers and shell-keeps fell out of fashion,
they were succeeded by towers of a cylindrical form, known as Donjons or
Juliets, and this change corresponds to the middle period of the Early
English style in ecclesiastical architecture. Scientifically, in a military point
of view, this was scarcely an advance, for the defenders of an isolated round
tower could not concentrate their fire, and could only protect the foot of the
wall by exposing themselves at its summit. On the other hand, with equal
material, the round tower was stronger, and more difficult to breach or to
bring down by a mine. Also, it admitted of being vaulted in every story, and
was thus more solid and less exposed than the rectangular keep to being set
on fire, either from within or by balls projected upon its conical roof.
Usually, however, in England, only the basement was vaulted, as at
Brunless. At Pembroke, the great round tower is vaulted at its summit, as
are some of the cylindrical towers in the enceinte; but it is possible that
these elevated vaults may be additions. At Coningsborough the basement
alone is vaulted, and the vault is entered by a ladder from an aperture in the
centre of the dome, under which is the well; the basement, as in Norman
and Early English towers generally, being used as a store-chamber, and
seldom, if ever, as a prison. In fact, in a single tower, whether rectangular or
cylindrical, intended by its passive strength to defy attacks and to wear out
the patience of a blockading force, an ample store of provisions was of the
first consequence, and to their storage all the spare space was necessarily
devoted. In those days, when the keep was the citadel, and not unfrequently
used as such, prisoners were not kept within its walls. Dungeons there were
none, save in a very few exceptional cases, and the basement or ground-
floor was invariably occupied as a magazine.
their site. Among the latest rectangular keeps should be mentioned the
tower at Penhow, Monmouthshire, the cradle of the house of Seymour; and
that of Fonmon, in Glamorgan, still inhabited. They are small, without
pilasters, and with scarcely any Norman features, and belong to the Early
English period, as, judging from its foundation laid open and from some
fragments dug up several years ago, did the castle of Sully, near Cardiff,
and probably that of Dunraven, in the same county, the remains of which
are built into a later house.
By degrees, as the Norman towers and shell-keeps fell out of fashion,
they were succeeded by towers of a cylindrical form, known as Donjons or
Juliets, and this change corresponds to the middle period of the Early
English style in ecclesiastical architecture. Scientifically, in a military point
of view, this was scarcely an advance, for the defenders of an isolated round
tower could not concentrate their fire, and could only protect the foot of the
wall by exposing themselves at its summit. On the other hand, with equal
material, the round tower was stronger, and more difficult to breach or to
bring down by a mine. Also, it admitted of being vaulted in every story, and
was thus more solid and less exposed than the rectangular keep to being set
on fire, either from within or by balls projected upon its conical roof.
Usually, however, in England, only the basement was vaulted, as at
Brunless. At Pembroke, the great round tower is vaulted at its summit, as
are some of the cylindrical towers in the enceinte; but it is possible that
these elevated vaults may be additions. At Coningsborough the basement
alone is vaulted, and the vault is entered by a ladder from an aperture in the
centre of the dome, under which is the well; the basement, as in Norman
and Early English towers generally, being used as a store-chamber, and
seldom, if ever, as a prison. In fact, in a single tower, whether rectangular or
cylindrical, intended by its passive strength to defy attacks and to wear out
the patience of a blockading force, an ample store of provisions was of the
first consequence, and to their storage all the spare space was necessarily
devoted. In those days, when the keep was the citadel, and not unfrequently
used as such, prisoners were not kept within its walls. Dungeons there were
none, save in a very few exceptional cases, and the basement or ground-
floor was invariably occupied as a magazine.
Page 166
These donjons were usually entered at the first-floor level, either by an
exterior stone stair or by one of timber; or sometimes, as at Pembroke, by a
drawbridge, which dropped upon a detached pier, whence an inclined plane
or a flight of steps descended to the ground level. In their elevated entrance,
and in some other respects, these donjons recall the isolated towers erected
during the decline of the Roman Empire, of which a good example, but
square, remains at Autun. There are only two instances in England of the
application of a fore-building to cover the entrance of these towers, but
these—Chilham near Canterbury, and Orford in Suffolk—are late Norman,
not Early English. Dolbadarn, in North Wales, a rather later tower, but
cylindrical, has an exterior stair of stone, which, however, may be an
addition.
There were commonly three floors. The basement was for stores. The
central floor contained the principal apartment, usually with a fireplace, and
sometimes with mural chambers, one of which is almost always a
garderobe. The flues of the fireplaces and the shafts of the garderobes are
often vertical, and contained within the wall. The upper floor was either for
the soldiery or for a bedroom for the lord. The walls are ordinarily 10 feet to
12 feet thick, and there is often a well stair—as at Skenfrith, in
Monmouthshire—from the first floor, leading to the upper chamber and the
battlements. In some of the ruder towers—as in that by the church of
Aghadoe, near Killarney, the ascent from the first floor is by the narrow
steps projecting from the interior face of the wall into the chamber. In the
larger towers, as at Coucy, there is often a small chamber in the wall, over
the main entrance, for the working of a portcullis. Now and then the
staircase begins at the ground-level, ends at the first floor, and begins again
at the opposite side, as in the rectangular keeps. Thus no one could leave his
post on the battlements without the knowledge of the captain, who lived in
the main chamber.
Where the cylindrical tower formed the donjon or keep, it was commonly
placed within the area, as at Brunless and Skenfrith. At Coningsborough it
stands upon the outer wall; at Pembroke on the wall of the inner ward; but
in neither case is there any communication between the tower and the
rampart of the wall. At Coucy the tower stands on an inner wall, but is girt
about with a low concentric wall covering the foundations. At Launceston
the annular space thus created between the tower and the girdling wall was
exterior stone stair or by one of timber; or sometimes, as at Pembroke, by a
drawbridge, which dropped upon a detached pier, whence an inclined plane
or a flight of steps descended to the ground level. In their elevated entrance,
and in some other respects, these donjons recall the isolated towers erected
during the decline of the Roman Empire, of which a good example, but
square, remains at Autun. There are only two instances in England of the
application of a fore-building to cover the entrance of these towers, but
these—Chilham near Canterbury, and Orford in Suffolk—are late Norman,
not Early English. Dolbadarn, in North Wales, a rather later tower, but
cylindrical, has an exterior stair of stone, which, however, may be an
addition.
There were commonly three floors. The basement was for stores. The
central floor contained the principal apartment, usually with a fireplace, and
sometimes with mural chambers, one of which is almost always a
garderobe. The flues of the fireplaces and the shafts of the garderobes are
often vertical, and contained within the wall. The upper floor was either for
the soldiery or for a bedroom for the lord. The walls are ordinarily 10 feet to
12 feet thick, and there is often a well stair—as at Skenfrith, in
Monmouthshire—from the first floor, leading to the upper chamber and the
battlements. In some of the ruder towers—as in that by the church of
Aghadoe, near Killarney, the ascent from the first floor is by the narrow
steps projecting from the interior face of the wall into the chamber. In the
larger towers, as at Coucy, there is often a small chamber in the wall, over
the main entrance, for the working of a portcullis. Now and then the
staircase begins at the ground-level, ends at the first floor, and begins again
at the opposite side, as in the rectangular keeps. Thus no one could leave his
post on the battlements without the knowledge of the captain, who lived in
the main chamber.
Where the cylindrical tower formed the donjon or keep, it was commonly
placed within the area, as at Brunless and Skenfrith. At Coningsborough it
stands upon the outer wall; at Pembroke on the wall of the inner ward; but
in neither case is there any communication between the tower and the
rampart of the wall. At Coucy the tower stands on an inner wall, but is girt
about with a low concentric wall covering the foundations. At Launceston
the annular space thus created between the tower and the girdling wall was
Page 167
roofed over, and there is something similar round the tower of Penrice in
Gower. At Tretower a round tower has been built within an older
rectangular keep, and the space between roofed over. In these cases the
outer wall was about half the height of the tower. At Lillebonne and Coucy
the tower has its proper ditch.
Coningsborough on the Don is the most complete English example of the
Early English or Transition Norman cylindrical keep. Pembroke, though
rather later, and of far inferior workmanship, is also, in its proportions and
dimensions, a very fine building. Launceston, Tretower, Penrice, Skenfrith,
Brunless, and Dolbadarn, are good examples, as are the Danes’ tower at
Waterford, and the small and rude, but very curious, tower at Aghadoe. At
Nenagh also is a very fine tower, apparently of the Early English type. The
round keep of Barnard Castle, though of nearly similar pattern, is of later
date. At Whitchurch, near Cardiff, are, or recently were, the foundations of
a detached round tower of considerable diameter, the base mouldings of
which showed it to be of Early English date. At Caldecot, a fine old Bohun
castle, admirably described by Mr. Octavius Morgan, is a round tower,
probably Early English, having a ditch of its own. This tower crowns a
small and evidently artificial mound. It is now a mural tower upon the line
of the outer wall, but it seems to have been cased, and the core is probably,
or possibly, the keep of an earlier castle.
Those English towers, though curious, are far inferior to those of the
same period remaining in France, whether keeps, such as Étampes, 1160,
the plan of which is a quatrefoil; or Roche-Guyon, where one-half of the
cylinder is absorbed in a triangular spur; or mural towers, as the King’s
Tower at Rouen, that at Carcassonne, and a specially fine one, lately
restored, at Pierrefonds. The keep at Nuremberg is also a good example.
The tower of the Louvre has long been destroyed, but its base was recently
laid open, and found to contain two shafts—those of a well and a sewer.
Probably the round towers, or keeps, are the oldest examples of the form,
but very soon afterwards they came into use in England and France as
mural towers, flanking and strengthening the enceinte wall. They were
especially used to cap an angle or to flank a gateway. There is an example
of a round tower capping an angle, of this date, in the Tower of London,
known as Bell Tower. Marten’s Tower at Chepstow is a good example of a
mural tower of the Early English period, having a fine oratory attached. Its
Gower. At Tretower a round tower has been built within an older
rectangular keep, and the space between roofed over. In these cases the
outer wall was about half the height of the tower. At Lillebonne and Coucy
the tower has its proper ditch.
Coningsborough on the Don is the most complete English example of the
Early English or Transition Norman cylindrical keep. Pembroke, though
rather later, and of far inferior workmanship, is also, in its proportions and
dimensions, a very fine building. Launceston, Tretower, Penrice, Skenfrith,
Brunless, and Dolbadarn, are good examples, as are the Danes’ tower at
Waterford, and the small and rude, but very curious, tower at Aghadoe. At
Nenagh also is a very fine tower, apparently of the Early English type. The
round keep of Barnard Castle, though of nearly similar pattern, is of later
date. At Whitchurch, near Cardiff, are, or recently were, the foundations of
a detached round tower of considerable diameter, the base mouldings of
which showed it to be of Early English date. At Caldecot, a fine old Bohun
castle, admirably described by Mr. Octavius Morgan, is a round tower,
probably Early English, having a ditch of its own. This tower crowns a
small and evidently artificial mound. It is now a mural tower upon the line
of the outer wall, but it seems to have been cased, and the core is probably,
or possibly, the keep of an earlier castle.
Those English towers, though curious, are far inferior to those of the
same period remaining in France, whether keeps, such as Étampes, 1160,
the plan of which is a quatrefoil; or Roche-Guyon, where one-half of the
cylinder is absorbed in a triangular spur; or mural towers, as the King’s
Tower at Rouen, that at Carcassonne, and a specially fine one, lately
restored, at Pierrefonds. The keep at Nuremberg is also a good example.
The tower of the Louvre has long been destroyed, but its base was recently
laid open, and found to contain two shafts—those of a well and a sewer.
Probably the round towers, or keeps, are the oldest examples of the form,
but very soon afterwards they came into use in England and France as
mural towers, flanking and strengthening the enceinte wall. They were
especially used to cap an angle or to flank a gateway. There is an example
of a round tower capping an angle, of this date, in the Tower of London,
known as Bell Tower. Marten’s Tower at Chepstow is a good example of a
mural tower of the Early English period, having a fine oratory attached. Its
Page 168
interior is a complete cylinder, but the exterior, or gorge wall, seen within
the court, is flat. At Rochester, the angle of the ward next the keep has a
circular tower, or rather a buttress tower, as it is not higher than the curtain.
In such positions their passive strength was a great advantage.
In the latter part of the twelfth and the beginning of the thirteenth
centuries, much was done to introduce domestic comfort into castles.
Fireplaces, which in the Norman keeps were but recesses in the wall, often
with a mere lateral orifice for a smoke-vent, as at Colchester and Rochester,
are now adorned with hoods, often of stone, sometimes of wood and plaster,
and the flues are capacious and calculated to carry off the smoke. The stone
hoods are usually of excellent masonry, and, even when plain, of much
elegance of design, resting upon brackets, and these on clustered columns
flanking the hearth. The vent or flue is often capped by a chimney-shaft and
smoke lanthorn, such as may be seen at Grosmont and St. Briavels castles,
or in the remains of the priory at Abingdon. Where the hood was of wood or
plaster, with a shaft of the same, or where there was an opening or louvre in
the roof, all traces are, of course, gone, and thus is explained the absence of
fireplaces in rooms evidently intended for ladies and persons of rank.
In the Norman keeps boarded floors were a necessity, and very ill-jointed
and cold they no doubt were, but with the vault the floors were composed of
beaten lime and sand. Garderobes continued to be frequent, both in mural
chambers and on the battlements, and the shafts were usually vertical, and
descended within the wall, having an outlet at the foot of it. The hall chapel,
and other buildings, placed usually in the inner ward, were more ornate than
in the Norman period.
In addition to the flanking defence afforded by towers upon the line of
the enceinte wall, there was in general use a contrivance called a
“Brétasche.” This was a gallery of timber running round the walls outside
the battlements, and at their level, supported by struts resting upon corbels,
and covered in with a sloping roof. Sometimes, in large towers, there were
two tiers of these galleries, the upper projecting beyond the lower, and thus
affording a very formidable defence. As these galleries concealed the top of
the wall, this part was often left in a rude state, and now that the brétasche
is gone, such towers, as at Caerphilly, have a very unfinished appearance.
The brétasche was only put up when a siege was expected, and examples of
it are very rare indeed, although it is evident in numerous instances that it
the court, is flat. At Rochester, the angle of the ward next the keep has a
circular tower, or rather a buttress tower, as it is not higher than the curtain.
In such positions their passive strength was a great advantage.
In the latter part of the twelfth and the beginning of the thirteenth
centuries, much was done to introduce domestic comfort into castles.
Fireplaces, which in the Norman keeps were but recesses in the wall, often
with a mere lateral orifice for a smoke-vent, as at Colchester and Rochester,
are now adorned with hoods, often of stone, sometimes of wood and plaster,
and the flues are capacious and calculated to carry off the smoke. The stone
hoods are usually of excellent masonry, and, even when plain, of much
elegance of design, resting upon brackets, and these on clustered columns
flanking the hearth. The vent or flue is often capped by a chimney-shaft and
smoke lanthorn, such as may be seen at Grosmont and St. Briavels castles,
or in the remains of the priory at Abingdon. Where the hood was of wood or
plaster, with a shaft of the same, or where there was an opening or louvre in
the roof, all traces are, of course, gone, and thus is explained the absence of
fireplaces in rooms evidently intended for ladies and persons of rank.
In the Norman keeps boarded floors were a necessity, and very ill-jointed
and cold they no doubt were, but with the vault the floors were composed of
beaten lime and sand. Garderobes continued to be frequent, both in mural
chambers and on the battlements, and the shafts were usually vertical, and
descended within the wall, having an outlet at the foot of it. The hall chapel,
and other buildings, placed usually in the inner ward, were more ornate than
in the Norman period.
In addition to the flanking defence afforded by towers upon the line of
the enceinte wall, there was in general use a contrivance called a
“Brétasche.” This was a gallery of timber running round the walls outside
the battlements, and at their level, supported by struts resting upon corbels,
and covered in with a sloping roof. Sometimes, in large towers, there were
two tiers of these galleries, the upper projecting beyond the lower, and thus
affording a very formidable defence. As these galleries concealed the top of
the wall, this part was often left in a rude state, and now that the brétasche
is gone, such towers, as at Caerphilly, have a very unfinished appearance.
The brétasche was only put up when a siege was expected, and examples of
it are very rare indeed, although it is evident in numerous instances that it
Page 169
was formerly in use. There remains a fragment of the actual brétasche over
the Soissons gate of Coucy; and at Ledes, over the outer gate, is the place of
its main beam. The tower of the Palazzo Vecchio at Florence shows by its
lines of corbels that it was intended to carry a brétasche, and a door is seen,
as at Norham, in the wall, which could only have opened upon a timber
gallery. Château-Gaillard, the work of Richard I., has what is not unlike a
brétasche, executed in stone.
The best example in England of the kind of tower which succeeded to the
rectangular and shell keep of the Norman period is the keep of
Coningsborough, which, though containing certain Norman ornaments and
details, belongs to the Transition period. It stands on the summit of a natural
hill, and forms a part of an earlier enceinte wall, which has been clumsily
broken to admit it. The tower, about 70 feet high, is cylindrical, about 50
feet diameter at the base, and 40 feet at the summit, but the cylinder is
supported exteriorly by six buttresses of great breadth and bold projection.
There is a basement domed over with a central hole above the well. The
only entrance is in the first floor, about 12 feet from the ground. The upper
floors and the roof were of timber. The staircases are in the wall, winding
with it. There are two garderobes, two fireplaces, no portcullis, and in the
upper part of one of the buttresses is an oratory. The roof was a cone, but
sprang from a ring wall, about 3 feet within the battlement wall and the
rampart walk. By this means the tower could be defended without a
brétasche, which would not have been the case had the roof rested on the
outer wall. A similar arrangement may be seen at Marten’s Tower at
Chepstow, and at Pembroke.
It is not, however, in England that the best examples of these Early
English or Transition keeps are to be found. In rectangular and shell keeps
England has some fine remains, but in France Philip Augustus carried the
new style of building much further, and even now there remain keep towers
of that time which have defied time and the madness of the Revolution, and
still remain tolerably perfect. The greatest triumph of the period, in this case
early in the thirteenth century, is the tower of Coucy, probably the finest
military tower in Europe. It is the keep of a castle which is itself the citadel
of a town, also strongly fortified. This wonderful work, a cylinder of fine
masonry about 98 feet in diameter, and rising clear and unbroken to 180
feet, was the work of Engerrand III., Sieur de Coucy, and the most powerful
the Soissons gate of Coucy; and at Ledes, over the outer gate, is the place of
its main beam. The tower of the Palazzo Vecchio at Florence shows by its
lines of corbels that it was intended to carry a brétasche, and a door is seen,
as at Norham, in the wall, which could only have opened upon a timber
gallery. Château-Gaillard, the work of Richard I., has what is not unlike a
brétasche, executed in stone.
The best example in England of the kind of tower which succeeded to the
rectangular and shell keep of the Norman period is the keep of
Coningsborough, which, though containing certain Norman ornaments and
details, belongs to the Transition period. It stands on the summit of a natural
hill, and forms a part of an earlier enceinte wall, which has been clumsily
broken to admit it. The tower, about 70 feet high, is cylindrical, about 50
feet diameter at the base, and 40 feet at the summit, but the cylinder is
supported exteriorly by six buttresses of great breadth and bold projection.
There is a basement domed over with a central hole above the well. The
only entrance is in the first floor, about 12 feet from the ground. The upper
floors and the roof were of timber. The staircases are in the wall, winding
with it. There are two garderobes, two fireplaces, no portcullis, and in the
upper part of one of the buttresses is an oratory. The roof was a cone, but
sprang from a ring wall, about 3 feet within the battlement wall and the
rampart walk. By this means the tower could be defended without a
brétasche, which would not have been the case had the roof rested on the
outer wall. A similar arrangement may be seen at Marten’s Tower at
Chepstow, and at Pembroke.
It is not, however, in England that the best examples of these Early
English or Transition keeps are to be found. In rectangular and shell keeps
England has some fine remains, but in France Philip Augustus carried the
new style of building much further, and even now there remain keep towers
of that time which have defied time and the madness of the Revolution, and
still remain tolerably perfect. The greatest triumph of the period, in this case
early in the thirteenth century, is the tower of Coucy, probably the finest
military tower in Europe. It is the keep of a castle which is itself the citadel
of a town, also strongly fortified. This wonderful work, a cylinder of fine
masonry about 98 feet in diameter, and rising clear and unbroken to 180
feet, was the work of Engerrand III., Sieur de Coucy, and the most powerful
Page 170
Baron of his age. The walls are of great thickness, and the basement and
upper floors, three in number, were vaulted, each in twelve deep and
pointed cells. A fosse, paved and walled, 20 feet broad and 12 feet deep, the
counterscarp of which is raised as the wall of a chemise, surrounds the base,
and protects it from the operations of the miner. A drawbridge, crossing this
fosse, leads to the first floor of the tower by its only entrance, which is
protected by a portcullis, an interior meurtrière, and a stout door. From the
entrance passage a staircase ascends in the wall, at first direct, and
afterwards as a turnpike, and supplies each floor, reaching finally the
ramparts. The basement was the store, and above are state and other
chambers. The well, of large size, is in the basement, and each floor has its
fireplace and garderobe. The roof was conical, and rested upon an internal
wall, outside of which was the rampart walk, protected by an unusually
lofty parapet, surmounted by a heavy bold coping, and pierced by twenty-
four doorways, intended to open into the timber brétasche, while between
the doorways are twenty-four loops, intended to be used when the brétasche
was not fixed. A curious evidence remains of the manner in which this
tower was scaffolded. A double row of putlog holes are seen to wind round
the tower spirally, in two parallel lines, showing that as the wall rose it was
surrounded by a sloping roadway of timber, of which the main beams were
thrust into the wall, and supported by struts, the lower ends of which rested
upon blocks in the lower holes. A similar arrangement may be seen in the
north-west tower of Harlech Castle, commencing at the top of the curtain-
wall. So strong was Coucy keep that when, at the command of Mazarin,
powder was exploded in its basement-chamber, and the vaultings
throughout, thus lifted, fell, the cylinder, though cracked, was not thrown
down. This noble example of a thirteenth-century tower has been
successfully repaired by Viollet-le-Duc, who closed the fissure, and made
the tower apparently as sound as ever. The vaulting, however, is gone.
Nor does Coucy, though the chief of the towers of the thirteenth century,
stand alone in its magnificence. Issoudun, known as La Blanche Tour, is
remarkable for the position of its entrance-door, and for its well-stair
contained in the projecting spur; Tournebut, Cosson, Verneuil, Chinon,
Villeneuve-le-Roi, Semur, Alluye, Bourbon-l’Archambault, and
Châteaudun, are a few only of the round towers or donjons scattered over
France, and dating from the latter half of the twelfth and from the thirteenth
century.
upper floors, three in number, were vaulted, each in twelve deep and
pointed cells. A fosse, paved and walled, 20 feet broad and 12 feet deep, the
counterscarp of which is raised as the wall of a chemise, surrounds the base,
and protects it from the operations of the miner. A drawbridge, crossing this
fosse, leads to the first floor of the tower by its only entrance, which is
protected by a portcullis, an interior meurtrière, and a stout door. From the
entrance passage a staircase ascends in the wall, at first direct, and
afterwards as a turnpike, and supplies each floor, reaching finally the
ramparts. The basement was the store, and above are state and other
chambers. The well, of large size, is in the basement, and each floor has its
fireplace and garderobe. The roof was conical, and rested upon an internal
wall, outside of which was the rampart walk, protected by an unusually
lofty parapet, surmounted by a heavy bold coping, and pierced by twenty-
four doorways, intended to open into the timber brétasche, while between
the doorways are twenty-four loops, intended to be used when the brétasche
was not fixed. A curious evidence remains of the manner in which this
tower was scaffolded. A double row of putlog holes are seen to wind round
the tower spirally, in two parallel lines, showing that as the wall rose it was
surrounded by a sloping roadway of timber, of which the main beams were
thrust into the wall, and supported by struts, the lower ends of which rested
upon blocks in the lower holes. A similar arrangement may be seen in the
north-west tower of Harlech Castle, commencing at the top of the curtain-
wall. So strong was Coucy keep that when, at the command of Mazarin,
powder was exploded in its basement-chamber, and the vaultings
throughout, thus lifted, fell, the cylinder, though cracked, was not thrown
down. This noble example of a thirteenth-century tower has been
successfully repaired by Viollet-le-Duc, who closed the fissure, and made
the tower apparently as sound as ever. The vaulting, however, is gone.
Nor does Coucy, though the chief of the towers of the thirteenth century,
stand alone in its magnificence. Issoudun, known as La Blanche Tour, is
remarkable for the position of its entrance-door, and for its well-stair
contained in the projecting spur; Tournebut, Cosson, Verneuil, Chinon,
Villeneuve-le-Roi, Semur, Alluye, Bourbon-l’Archambault, and
Châteaudun, are a few only of the round towers or donjons scattered over
France, and dating from the latter half of the twelfth and from the thirteenth
century.
Page 171
There is a peculiarity in these French towers unknown in England.
Where, as at Château-Gaillard, they are exposed on one side to be battered,
they are constructed with a projection forming a right-angled salient from
the cylinder, which thus becomes keel or boat-shaped in plain. This spur has
a fine effect, and being usually solid, adds much to the strength of the
tower. This projection, of which Roche-Guyon is a fine example, and which
ascends the whole height of the tower, is very different from the spur-
buttress, by which a round tower rises from a square base. This is especially
common in Wales, and may be seen producing a good effect both at
Chepstow and Goderich.
Of cylindrical keeps, either of early English or late Norman date, in
England, may be mentioned Brunless, near Brecon; probably Caldecot,
Monmouthshire; Coningsborough, described above; Dolbadarn, in North
Wales; Launceston; Pembroke; Penrice, Glamorganshire; Skenfrith,
Monmouthshire; and Tretower, county Brecon. The round tower at Barnard
Castle, a very fine one, already mentioned, is later.
The reign of Henry III., 1216–1272, was long, and that prince was a
munificent patron of art, and especially of architecture; nevertheless, and
notwithstanding the internal dissensions of the period, the reign produced
(excepting perhaps in South Wales) but few original castles, and those not
remarkable for grandeur. The cause of this was that the country was already
rather over-furnished with castles, so active had the Norman lords been
during a century and a-half, and the positions of the existing castles being
well chosen, and their keeps of a substantial character, it was found better to
add to them, when space was needed, rather than construct new ones in new
positions. The itinerary of John shows that almost all the great castles of the
country were even then built, and the use to which they were so frequently
put may well have made the successors of that sovereign anxious rather to
destroy than to build. Thus Bedford, a very early and very strong castle, was
held by Fulke de Bréauté against the king in person, and was only taken by
assault after a vigorous siege of two months, after which it was not only
dismantled, but destroyed, its ditches filled up, and the materials of its walls
and towers used for other constructions. Sometimes, however, where it was
desirable, as in London or at Porchester, or Winchester, or Richmond, to
retain the existing castle, either enceinte walls or more extended outworks
were added, affording more accommodation for troops or for live stock for
Where, as at Château-Gaillard, they are exposed on one side to be battered,
they are constructed with a projection forming a right-angled salient from
the cylinder, which thus becomes keel or boat-shaped in plain. This spur has
a fine effect, and being usually solid, adds much to the strength of the
tower. This projection, of which Roche-Guyon is a fine example, and which
ascends the whole height of the tower, is very different from the spur-
buttress, by which a round tower rises from a square base. This is especially
common in Wales, and may be seen producing a good effect both at
Chepstow and Goderich.
Of cylindrical keeps, either of early English or late Norman date, in
England, may be mentioned Brunless, near Brecon; probably Caldecot,
Monmouthshire; Coningsborough, described above; Dolbadarn, in North
Wales; Launceston; Pembroke; Penrice, Glamorganshire; Skenfrith,
Monmouthshire; and Tretower, county Brecon. The round tower at Barnard
Castle, a very fine one, already mentioned, is later.
The reign of Henry III., 1216–1272, was long, and that prince was a
munificent patron of art, and especially of architecture; nevertheless, and
notwithstanding the internal dissensions of the period, the reign produced
(excepting perhaps in South Wales) but few original castles, and those not
remarkable for grandeur. The cause of this was that the country was already
rather over-furnished with castles, so active had the Norman lords been
during a century and a-half, and the positions of the existing castles being
well chosen, and their keeps of a substantial character, it was found better to
add to them, when space was needed, rather than construct new ones in new
positions. The itinerary of John shows that almost all the great castles of the
country were even then built, and the use to which they were so frequently
put may well have made the successors of that sovereign anxious rather to
destroy than to build. Thus Bedford, a very early and very strong castle, was
held by Fulke de Bréauté against the king in person, and was only taken by
assault after a vigorous siege of two months, after which it was not only
dismantled, but destroyed, its ditches filled up, and the materials of its walls
and towers used for other constructions. Sometimes, however, where it was
desirable, as in London or at Porchester, or Winchester, or Richmond, to
retain the existing castle, either enceinte walls or more extended outworks
were added, affording more accommodation for troops or for live stock for
Page 172
the garrison. Palisades gave place to walls, and mural towers and
gatehouses, of large size and great strength, were added. Sometimes, as at
the Tower of London, an outer ward, encircling the older building, was
added; in other cases, as at Corfe, Chepstow, and Barnard Castle, the new
ward was applied on one side, or at one end. In these augmented castles the
keep was still treated as an interior citadel, a last resource or refuge, and
was protected by one or two lines of wall, with mural towers, usually round
or half round, and by gatehouses, composed of two round towers with the
entrance between them, the new area within being proportioned to the
importance of the place.
These composite structures are the earliest to which the term concentric
is properly applicable. Where the keep is central, and the enceinte double,
as at the Tower and Dover, the result is a very perfect example of the
concentric type of castle, though of course the parts are of different dates.
Of Kenilworth, and probably of Bridgnorth, the original arrangement was
concentric, although the central part is a ward or walled enclosure, not a
single isolated keep tower, which in these is worked into the line of the
inner ward wall. As the outline of most castles was materially affected by
the disposition of the ground, it is obvious that no classification as regards
chronology can be based altogether upon the ground plan. At Alnwick, for
example, the outline of which is probably Norman, and to some extent
governed by the ground, the keep stands between two wards, and is the
connecting part between them, and so at Chepstow and at Pickering; while
at Richmond, also Norman, the arrangement is wholly different, as it is at
Porchester, where Roman walls have been turned to account.
South Wales contains some castles which appear to have been altogether
built, though possibly on old sites, in the reign of Henry III., as Cilgerran,
Manorbeer, Grosmont, and Whitecastle. These, especially Whitecastle, are
mere enclosures of irregular plan, within a strong curtain wall, supported by
mural towers almost always round, and entered between two such towers as
a gatehouse. The domestic buildings or lodgings, as the hall, sleeping-
rooms, kitchen, offices, and stables, which in a regular English castle were
of masonry, in these Border structures, such as Whitchurch, were partly of
timber, with flat or moderately-sloping roofs, built against the walls of the
area.
gatehouses, of large size and great strength, were added. Sometimes, as at
the Tower of London, an outer ward, encircling the older building, was
added; in other cases, as at Corfe, Chepstow, and Barnard Castle, the new
ward was applied on one side, or at one end. In these augmented castles the
keep was still treated as an interior citadel, a last resource or refuge, and
was protected by one or two lines of wall, with mural towers, usually round
or half round, and by gatehouses, composed of two round towers with the
entrance between them, the new area within being proportioned to the
importance of the place.
These composite structures are the earliest to which the term concentric
is properly applicable. Where the keep is central, and the enceinte double,
as at the Tower and Dover, the result is a very perfect example of the
concentric type of castle, though of course the parts are of different dates.
Of Kenilworth, and probably of Bridgnorth, the original arrangement was
concentric, although the central part is a ward or walled enclosure, not a
single isolated keep tower, which in these is worked into the line of the
inner ward wall. As the outline of most castles was materially affected by
the disposition of the ground, it is obvious that no classification as regards
chronology can be based altogether upon the ground plan. At Alnwick, for
example, the outline of which is probably Norman, and to some extent
governed by the ground, the keep stands between two wards, and is the
connecting part between them, and so at Chepstow and at Pickering; while
at Richmond, also Norman, the arrangement is wholly different, as it is at
Porchester, where Roman walls have been turned to account.
South Wales contains some castles which appear to have been altogether
built, though possibly on old sites, in the reign of Henry III., as Cilgerran,
Manorbeer, Grosmont, and Whitecastle. These, especially Whitecastle, are
mere enclosures of irregular plan, within a strong curtain wall, supported by
mural towers almost always round, and entered between two such towers as
a gatehouse. The domestic buildings or lodgings, as the hall, sleeping-
rooms, kitchen, offices, and stables, which in a regular English castle were
of masonry, in these Border structures, such as Whitchurch, were partly of
timber, with flat or moderately-sloping roofs, built against the walls of the
area.
Page 173
In the royal castles, and others the “capita” of estates and seats of the
greater barons, great attention was paid to domestic comfort and splendour.
The records of the reign contain many sheriffs’ accounts for additions or
repairs for domestic buildings within the castles, for painting the walls in
fresco, or filling the windows with stained glass, all showing a vast growth
in taste and luxury. More attention, indeed, was paid to these matters than to
the military defences, for the pure castles in time of peace were allowed to
fall into disrepair, and scarcely any garrisons were kept up within them.
When a rebellion broke out, and the castles of a district were threatened, the
patent and close rolls are filled with orders to the sheriffs, constables, and
castellans, to supply timber, nails, lead, cordage, barrels of arrow-heads and
cross-bow bolts, calthrops, bow-staves, and now and then military engines,
which were collected from all quarters. All, however, was done hastily, and
any masonry work erected under such circumstances is generally found to
be of inferior quality, and in marked contrast to the masonry of churches
and ecclesiastical buildings of the same period.
In the reign of Henry also began to be constructed fortified dwelling-
houses, embattled and usually moated, but not regular castles. The invasion
of the prerogative, under Stephen, led to its enforcement with strictness in
the subsequent reigns, but as there were few new castles, it was chiefly in
favour of fortified houses that the licentia kernellare was applied for and
granted. The earliest extant licence of this character dates from this reign,
and about a score altogether appear to have been issued by Henry. Of these,
six only were applied for by considerable barons, and in only two cases for
castles of consequence, namely, Dudley and Belvoir.
greater barons, great attention was paid to domestic comfort and splendour.
The records of the reign contain many sheriffs’ accounts for additions or
repairs for domestic buildings within the castles, for painting the walls in
fresco, or filling the windows with stained glass, all showing a vast growth
in taste and luxury. More attention, indeed, was paid to these matters than to
the military defences, for the pure castles in time of peace were allowed to
fall into disrepair, and scarcely any garrisons were kept up within them.
When a rebellion broke out, and the castles of a district were threatened, the
patent and close rolls are filled with orders to the sheriffs, constables, and
castellans, to supply timber, nails, lead, cordage, barrels of arrow-heads and
cross-bow bolts, calthrops, bow-staves, and now and then military engines,
which were collected from all quarters. All, however, was done hastily, and
any masonry work erected under such circumstances is generally found to
be of inferior quality, and in marked contrast to the masonry of churches
and ecclesiastical buildings of the same period.
In the reign of Henry also began to be constructed fortified dwelling-
houses, embattled and usually moated, but not regular castles. The invasion
of the prerogative, under Stephen, led to its enforcement with strictness in
the subsequent reigns, but as there were few new castles, it was chiefly in
favour of fortified houses that the licentia kernellare was applied for and
granted. The earliest extant licence of this character dates from this reign,
and about a score altogether appear to have been issued by Henry. Of these,
six only were applied for by considerable barons, and in only two cases for
castles of consequence, namely, Dudley and Belvoir.
Page 174
CHAPTER XII.
OF THE EDWARDIAN OR CONCENTRIC CASTLES.
EVERY castle, if more than a solitary tower or peel, and having more than a
single line of defence, has more or less of a concentric character, but in
most, even of the largest of the earlier castles, the secondary defences were
of small extent and confined to works for the protection of the entrance, as
at Richmond and Coningsborough, and such cannot, with any propriety, be
called in a general sense concentric. At Richmond, for example, the original
castle was an enclosure within a fortified wall of which the keep formed a
part, a small barbican covering the entrance, and so of the purely Norman
part of Corfe, of Coningsborough, of Brough, of Bridgnorth, and probably
of the original Tower of London. None of these were originally concentric,
nor can the term be correctly applied to the original castles of the early part
of the reign of Henry III., nor even to some of those built by his son. White
Castle, Grosmount, Cilgerran, and even Caernarvon and Conway, are mere
enclosures, strengthened and fortified by mural towers and gatehouses upon
a single line of wall. Salisbury was concentric by necessity, the earthworks
leaving the builders no choice in the matter. The concentric arrangement has
been supposed to have been introduced by Prince Edward from Syria. That
so able a soldier, and so shrewd an observer, added to his knowledge of the
military art by what he saw in Palestine is probable enough, but the system
of defence for which his reign became celebrated was in truth introduced
into England before the death of Henry and before Edward returned from
the East. Caerphilly, one of the most complete examples of the concentric
lines of defence, was constructed just before Henry’s death, and was the
work, not of the sovereign but of a subject. Nevertheless, so great was
Edward’s fame, that the system which, though he did not invent, he
adopted, has been designated by his name, and the term Edwardian has
been applied to that style of fortress, that took the place both of the round
tower and of the walled enclosure, and carried forward the art of
fortification from the Early English to the Decorated period of English
architecture.
OF THE EDWARDIAN OR CONCENTRIC CASTLES.
EVERY castle, if more than a solitary tower or peel, and having more than a
single line of defence, has more or less of a concentric character, but in
most, even of the largest of the earlier castles, the secondary defences were
of small extent and confined to works for the protection of the entrance, as
at Richmond and Coningsborough, and such cannot, with any propriety, be
called in a general sense concentric. At Richmond, for example, the original
castle was an enclosure within a fortified wall of which the keep formed a
part, a small barbican covering the entrance, and so of the purely Norman
part of Corfe, of Coningsborough, of Brough, of Bridgnorth, and probably
of the original Tower of London. None of these were originally concentric,
nor can the term be correctly applied to the original castles of the early part
of the reign of Henry III., nor even to some of those built by his son. White
Castle, Grosmount, Cilgerran, and even Caernarvon and Conway, are mere
enclosures, strengthened and fortified by mural towers and gatehouses upon
a single line of wall. Salisbury was concentric by necessity, the earthworks
leaving the builders no choice in the matter. The concentric arrangement has
been supposed to have been introduced by Prince Edward from Syria. That
so able a soldier, and so shrewd an observer, added to his knowledge of the
military art by what he saw in Palestine is probable enough, but the system
of defence for which his reign became celebrated was in truth introduced
into England before the death of Henry and before Edward returned from
the East. Caerphilly, one of the most complete examples of the concentric
lines of defence, was constructed just before Henry’s death, and was the
work, not of the sovereign but of a subject. Nevertheless, so great was
Edward’s fame, that the system which, though he did not invent, he
adopted, has been designated by his name, and the term Edwardian has
been applied to that style of fortress, that took the place both of the round
tower and of the walled enclosure, and carried forward the art of
fortification from the Early English to the Decorated period of English
architecture.
Page 175
Edward’s policy, on his return from the East, and accession to the throne,
led him not to build, but to pull down castles. In the fourth year of his reign
it was enacted: “It is to be enquired of castelles, and also of other buyldings
girt with dytches, that the walls, tymber, stone, lead, and other manner of
coverynges are worth, and how they may be solde, after the very value of
the same walles and buyldinges. And how moche the buyldinges without
the dych may be sold for, and what they may be worth, with the gardens,
custylages, dove house, and all other issues of the court by the yere.”
Probably this mainly related to such unlicensed castles as had escaped the
hands of Henry, as none of the older or more important structures were then
pulled down. Many of these, indeed, had recently been augmented and
embellished, and where it suited his convenience, Edward followed in the
same track, strengthening and repairing decayed walls and towers, and
adapting them to the changed circumstances of the time. Thus, at
Porchester, he rebuilt the inner ward, and much enlarged the contained
buildings. The additions to Middleham, an outer ward and gatehouse, are of
his reign, and the vast outworks beyond the lake at Kenilworth, and the
effect of these and similar alterations was to convert the original castles into
those of the concentric type.
But it was in North Wales that circumstances called forth Edward’s talent
as a military engineer. In that country the strong places were hill camps,
unfitted for modern warfare, and out of the line of his operations. He found
there neither English mounds nor Norman keeps, and his works are not only
on a grand scale, but they are original. To him are entirely due the castles of
Conway and Caernarvon, Beaumaris and Harlech. Possibly Bere Castle and
Dolbadarn Tower were strengthened by him, but they rather resemble the
early works of his father. In Scotland Edward’s works have been mostly
destroyed, but his hand may be recognised at Linlithgow, possibly in the
castle at Edinburgh, and in the old fortifications of Berwick.
The first characteristic of a concentric castle is the arrangement of its
lines of defence, one within the other, two or even three deep, with towers
at the angles and along the walls, so planned that no part is left entirely to
its own defences. A wall cannot be advantageously defended unless so
arranged that the exterior base of one part can be seen and commanded
from the summit of another. A Norman keep or an Early English round
tower could only be defended by the projection of missiles from the
led him not to build, but to pull down castles. In the fourth year of his reign
it was enacted: “It is to be enquired of castelles, and also of other buyldings
girt with dytches, that the walls, tymber, stone, lead, and other manner of
coverynges are worth, and how they may be solde, after the very value of
the same walles and buyldinges. And how moche the buyldinges without
the dych may be sold for, and what they may be worth, with the gardens,
custylages, dove house, and all other issues of the court by the yere.”
Probably this mainly related to such unlicensed castles as had escaped the
hands of Henry, as none of the older or more important structures were then
pulled down. Many of these, indeed, had recently been augmented and
embellished, and where it suited his convenience, Edward followed in the
same track, strengthening and repairing decayed walls and towers, and
adapting them to the changed circumstances of the time. Thus, at
Porchester, he rebuilt the inner ward, and much enlarged the contained
buildings. The additions to Middleham, an outer ward and gatehouse, are of
his reign, and the vast outworks beyond the lake at Kenilworth, and the
effect of these and similar alterations was to convert the original castles into
those of the concentric type.
But it was in North Wales that circumstances called forth Edward’s talent
as a military engineer. In that country the strong places were hill camps,
unfitted for modern warfare, and out of the line of his operations. He found
there neither English mounds nor Norman keeps, and his works are not only
on a grand scale, but they are original. To him are entirely due the castles of
Conway and Caernarvon, Beaumaris and Harlech. Possibly Bere Castle and
Dolbadarn Tower were strengthened by him, but they rather resemble the
early works of his father. In Scotland Edward’s works have been mostly
destroyed, but his hand may be recognised at Linlithgow, possibly in the
castle at Edinburgh, and in the old fortifications of Berwick.
The first characteristic of a concentric castle is the arrangement of its
lines of defence, one within the other, two or even three deep, with towers
at the angles and along the walls, so planned that no part is left entirely to
its own defences. A wall cannot be advantageously defended unless so
arranged that the exterior base of one part can be seen and commanded
from the summit of another. A Norman keep or an Early English round
tower could only be defended by the projection of missiles from the
Page 176
battlements, exposing those who discharged almost as much as those who
received them. The employment of mural towers not only added to the
passive strength of the wall whence they projected, but when placed within
a bowshot distance enabled the defenders, themselves protected, to enfilade
the intermediate curtain. By this means the curtain wall, that part of the
work least able to withstand the strokes of the ram, became that in defence
of which most projectiles could be brought to bear, whilst the towers, which
from their distance apart were but imperfectly flanked, were from their
form and solidity in little danger of being breached. By this means also
material was economised. The walls were less thick, and the defence
generally was carried on with more skill and less dependence upon passive
strength. In this indeed there was nothing new, but not the less the principle
was ignored in the construction both of keep-towers and their successors,
the round towers, donjons, or juliets. But in the concentric system a good
deal more than this was effected. The parts of the lines of defence were so
arranged that the garrison could sally from one part, and so harass the attack
upon another. Moreover each part, tower or gatehouse, and sometimes each
stage of a building, was so contrived that it could be held separately for a
short time. Also, from the concentric arrangement of the lines, a breach of
the outer wall did not involve the loss of the place. The second ward, as at
Beaumaris, Harlech, Caerphilly, or the Tower, was so narrow that in the
event of its being entered from a breach, the assailants were exposed to an
attack on either flank, in such a manner that their greater number could not
be brought to bear, nor was there room to work a catapult or set up a
malvoisin. In these castles, the keep, the main feature in a Norman or an
Early English fortress, was dispensed with; it was developed, to speak
anatomically, into an open court, strengthened at its sides and angles by
gatehouses and mural towers, and having the hall and domestic apartments
ranged against the wall along one or two sides. Around this inner ward was
disposed a second ward, of narrow breadth, and broken up by cross walls.
Sometimes around this second ward was disposed a third or outer ward,
usually of large area, so as to accommodate the greater part of the garrison,
the horses, and the neighbouring peasants with their cattle. In many castles
this outer ward contained a ditch, or even a large sheet of water, as at Ledes,
Caerphilly, and Kenilworth, formed by damming back a local streamlet. In
such cases the defence of the dam became a matter of prime consequence,
and was specially provided for by stout walls along its length, and towers or
received them. The employment of mural towers not only added to the
passive strength of the wall whence they projected, but when placed within
a bowshot distance enabled the defenders, themselves protected, to enfilade
the intermediate curtain. By this means the curtain wall, that part of the
work least able to withstand the strokes of the ram, became that in defence
of which most projectiles could be brought to bear, whilst the towers, which
from their distance apart were but imperfectly flanked, were from their
form and solidity in little danger of being breached. By this means also
material was economised. The walls were less thick, and the defence
generally was carried on with more skill and less dependence upon passive
strength. In this indeed there was nothing new, but not the less the principle
was ignored in the construction both of keep-towers and their successors,
the round towers, donjons, or juliets. But in the concentric system a good
deal more than this was effected. The parts of the lines of defence were so
arranged that the garrison could sally from one part, and so harass the attack
upon another. Moreover each part, tower or gatehouse, and sometimes each
stage of a building, was so contrived that it could be held separately for a
short time. Also, from the concentric arrangement of the lines, a breach of
the outer wall did not involve the loss of the place. The second ward, as at
Beaumaris, Harlech, Caerphilly, or the Tower, was so narrow that in the
event of its being entered from a breach, the assailants were exposed to an
attack on either flank, in such a manner that their greater number could not
be brought to bear, nor was there room to work a catapult or set up a
malvoisin. In these castles, the keep, the main feature in a Norman or an
Early English fortress, was dispensed with; it was developed, to speak
anatomically, into an open court, strengthened at its sides and angles by
gatehouses and mural towers, and having the hall and domestic apartments
ranged against the wall along one or two sides. Around this inner ward was
disposed a second ward, of narrow breadth, and broken up by cross walls.
Sometimes around this second ward was disposed a third or outer ward,
usually of large area, so as to accommodate the greater part of the garrison,
the horses, and the neighbouring peasants with their cattle. In many castles
this outer ward contained a ditch, or even a large sheet of water, as at Ledes,
Caerphilly, and Kenilworth, formed by damming back a local streamlet. In
such cases the defence of the dam became a matter of prime consequence,
and was specially provided for by stout walls along its length, and towers or
Page 177
gatehouses at either end. In these castles every part is intended for everyday
use. No part is set apart only to be inhabited during a siege. The hall,
chapel, and kitchen were habitually used, and constructed on a fitting scale.
As Caerphilly is both the earliest and the most complete example in
Britain of a concentric castle, it will be convenient briefly to point out its
principal features. The position was selected to close a pass by which the
Welsh were wont to issue from the hill country of Glamorgan into
Monmouthshire, the way by the sea coast being barred by Cardiff and the
castles of the vale. The spot selected lay between the Taff and the Rhymny,
upon a gravel bank rising in a low marshy bottom, having mountainous, or
at least very high ground to its north, south, and west. The central part of
the bank was occupied by a rectangular enclosure, 70 yards by 53 yards,
having at each angle a lofty drum tower, and in the centre of each end a
broad and lofty gatehouse. On one side of this inner ward was the hall, 72
feet long by 33 feet wide, placed between the chapel and the private
apartments, while the gatehouses also contained apartments second only to
the hall in magnitude. This inner ward stood within a second and rather
larger area, also rectangular, and 106 yards by 90 yards. This middle ward
was provided with smaller gatehouses connected with those within, and was
contained within a revetment and parapetted wall which descended 20 feet
all round into water. Four parapetted bastions, corresponding to the interior
towers, capped the four angles, and the side next the hall contained the
kitchen and offices, and a water-gate opening from the hall by a broad
passage with space for the stowage of boats.
The water by which these two wards were encompassed was on one side
a deep and broad lake covering about 16 acres, and on the other side a
smaller sheet of water of about 3½ acres. These two waters were connected
by cross cuts at each end, traversed, opposite the gatehouses, by
drawbridges. One of these dropped upon a tête du pont, a sort of hornwork
or ravelin of earth, about an acre and a-half in area, and enclosed within a
revetment wall duly parapetted, and probably with a stout palisade on the
raised ground within. A branch from the lake encircled this work, and a
second drawbridge connected it with the ground outside. At the opposite
end of the castle another bridge dropped from the middle ward upon the
outer ward, a very remarkable work. This was a raised platform nearly 330
yards long by from 14 yards to 36 yards in depth, covering the whole front
use. No part is set apart only to be inhabited during a siege. The hall,
chapel, and kitchen were habitually used, and constructed on a fitting scale.
As Caerphilly is both the earliest and the most complete example in
Britain of a concentric castle, it will be convenient briefly to point out its
principal features. The position was selected to close a pass by which the
Welsh were wont to issue from the hill country of Glamorgan into
Monmouthshire, the way by the sea coast being barred by Cardiff and the
castles of the vale. The spot selected lay between the Taff and the Rhymny,
upon a gravel bank rising in a low marshy bottom, having mountainous, or
at least very high ground to its north, south, and west. The central part of
the bank was occupied by a rectangular enclosure, 70 yards by 53 yards,
having at each angle a lofty drum tower, and in the centre of each end a
broad and lofty gatehouse. On one side of this inner ward was the hall, 72
feet long by 33 feet wide, placed between the chapel and the private
apartments, while the gatehouses also contained apartments second only to
the hall in magnitude. This inner ward stood within a second and rather
larger area, also rectangular, and 106 yards by 90 yards. This middle ward
was provided with smaller gatehouses connected with those within, and was
contained within a revetment and parapetted wall which descended 20 feet
all round into water. Four parapetted bastions, corresponding to the interior
towers, capped the four angles, and the side next the hall contained the
kitchen and offices, and a water-gate opening from the hall by a broad
passage with space for the stowage of boats.
The water by which these two wards were encompassed was on one side
a deep and broad lake covering about 16 acres, and on the other side a
smaller sheet of water of about 3½ acres. These two waters were connected
by cross cuts at each end, traversed, opposite the gatehouses, by
drawbridges. One of these dropped upon a tête du pont, a sort of hornwork
or ravelin of earth, about an acre and a-half in area, and enclosed within a
revetment wall duly parapetted, and probably with a stout palisade on the
raised ground within. A branch from the lake encircled this work, and a
second drawbridge connected it with the ground outside. At the opposite
end of the castle another bridge dropped from the middle ward upon the
outer ward, a very remarkable work. This was a raised platform nearly 330
yards long by from 14 yards to 36 yards in depth, covering the whole front
Page 178
of the castle, including the two sheets of water. The platform was divided
near its centre by a lofty wall embattled on each face, and having a ditch
along one of them. On this wall was a strong gatehouse having below a
portcullised doorway, with a drawbridge connecting the two parts of the
platform, and above, a smaller doorway, also protected by a bridge and
portcullis, and guarding the way to the battlements of the outer wall. At one
end of the platform was a postern connected with the stables, and at the
other a cluster of towers on the outer bank of the lake, containing another
postern. In the centre was the great exterior gatehouse, from the gateway of
which a bridge dropped upon an enormous pier standing in the middle of
the outer ditch, from the exterior face of which a second bridge dropped
upon the village street. On the platform was a large corn-mill, and
connected with it the dam and sluice by which the waters of the lake were
retained and regulated, and which was very strongly fortified. Thus there
were two great gates and two posterns at points of the castle distinct from
each other, whence large bodies of cavalry could issue, so that the camp of
a besieging force could be attacked from four directions, and, in case of
failure, the castle could be reached by four entrances, besides two water-
gates. In addition to these strategical arrangements, each tower and
gatehouse had a portcullised entrance on the ground floor, and in the upper
stories the lateral doorways opening on the battlements of the curtains were
protected in a similar manner.
In a military point of view, Caerphilly is a work of consummate skill.
Unfortunately for its historic fame, the settlement of Wales followed so
closely upon its erection that it never attained to any great importance.
Harlech is a concentric castle, probably designed by the architect of
Caerphilly. Here also is an inner rectangular ward, with drum towers at the
angles and the hall, and other buildings on two sides. This stands within an
outer ward, also rectangular, with parapetted walls and bastions. The inner
ward has a large single gatehouse, connected with a second and smaller one
in the outer ward, from which a drawbridge spanned a deep and broad ditch
quarried in the rock. Harlech stands well, and occupies a bold headland of
rock which formerly rose out of the sea, from which it is now separated by
a broad tract of low land. Its great peculiarity is a covered staircase cut in
the rock, defended seaward by a looped parapet, and closed above and
near its centre by a lofty wall embattled on each face, and having a ditch
along one of them. On this wall was a strong gatehouse having below a
portcullised doorway, with a drawbridge connecting the two parts of the
platform, and above, a smaller doorway, also protected by a bridge and
portcullis, and guarding the way to the battlements of the outer wall. At one
end of the platform was a postern connected with the stables, and at the
other a cluster of towers on the outer bank of the lake, containing another
postern. In the centre was the great exterior gatehouse, from the gateway of
which a bridge dropped upon an enormous pier standing in the middle of
the outer ditch, from the exterior face of which a second bridge dropped
upon the village street. On the platform was a large corn-mill, and
connected with it the dam and sluice by which the waters of the lake were
retained and regulated, and which was very strongly fortified. Thus there
were two great gates and two posterns at points of the castle distinct from
each other, whence large bodies of cavalry could issue, so that the camp of
a besieging force could be attacked from four directions, and, in case of
failure, the castle could be reached by four entrances, besides two water-
gates. In addition to these strategical arrangements, each tower and
gatehouse had a portcullised entrance on the ground floor, and in the upper
stories the lateral doorways opening on the battlements of the curtains were
protected in a similar manner.
In a military point of view, Caerphilly is a work of consummate skill.
Unfortunately for its historic fame, the settlement of Wales followed so
closely upon its erection that it never attained to any great importance.
Harlech is a concentric castle, probably designed by the architect of
Caerphilly. Here also is an inner rectangular ward, with drum towers at the
angles and the hall, and other buildings on two sides. This stands within an
outer ward, also rectangular, with parapetted walls and bastions. The inner
ward has a large single gatehouse, connected with a second and smaller one
in the outer ward, from which a drawbridge spanned a deep and broad ditch
quarried in the rock. Harlech stands well, and occupies a bold headland of
rock which formerly rose out of the sea, from which it is now separated by
a broad tract of low land. Its great peculiarity is a covered staircase cut in
the rock, defended seaward by a looped parapet, and closed above and
Page 179
below by small gatehouses. This was the water-gate of the fortress, and
opened upon a small quay now occupied by the railway.
Beaumaris, another of Edward’s castles, deserves special attention from
the fact that it stands upon open ground, and its plan is therefore unaffected
by any peculiarities of level. It is composed of two wards; the inner
rectangular, 58 yards by 66 yards, with high curtain walls, drum towers at
the four angles, a gatehouse in the centre of each end and half-round towers
in the centre of each side, of which one is the chapel. The apartments were
in the gatehouses, and the hall was on the first floor, above the portal. The
curtains are remarkable. They are 16 feet thick, but are pierced
longitudinally below the ground level by a series of sewers, and above by a
mural gallery, the rampart walk being above all. The outer ward is an
irregular octagon, the opposite sides being equal. It is strengthened by
twelve drum towers. The space between the two walls, forming the ward, is
narrow—from 40 to 50 feet broad. At one end is a gatehouse, protected by a
double traverse raking the passage, and at the other is a postern, part of a
gatehouse, either unfinished or pulled down. From one end towards the sea
shore projects a wall 5 yards broad and about 33 yards long, containing a
passage looped each way and traversed by a gateway. This is a spurwork,
and was connected with the quay, and ended in a round tower. There was
but one ditch, which girdled the whole, and was fed from the adjacent sea.
It is now filled up.
The additions to the Tower of London, by which its Norman keep and
Early English inner ward were converted into a regular concentric castle,
are skilfully managed. Here the second ward, as usual, is very narrow, and a
broad and deep ditch girdles the whole. One limb of the ditch is, however,
represented by the Thames, but between it and the outer wall is a strip of
land serving as a quay for the landing of stores, of which the rear is strongly
fortified. At each end was a sluice for regulating the water of the ditch, and
in the centre a grand and strongly fortified water-tower, with a portcullised
canal from the river, known as Traitors’ Gate. The annexed plan of the
Tower represents very fairly a composite but concentric castle.
When the size of the fortress did not require more than one ward, as at
Pennard in Gower, or where the ground was unsuitable, as at Conway and
Chepstow, the concentric arrangement was laid aside. At Chepstow the
Norman keep stands upon a steep ridge of rock, occupying its whole
opened upon a small quay now occupied by the railway.
Beaumaris, another of Edward’s castles, deserves special attention from
the fact that it stands upon open ground, and its plan is therefore unaffected
by any peculiarities of level. It is composed of two wards; the inner
rectangular, 58 yards by 66 yards, with high curtain walls, drum towers at
the four angles, a gatehouse in the centre of each end and half-round towers
in the centre of each side, of which one is the chapel. The apartments were
in the gatehouses, and the hall was on the first floor, above the portal. The
curtains are remarkable. They are 16 feet thick, but are pierced
longitudinally below the ground level by a series of sewers, and above by a
mural gallery, the rampart walk being above all. The outer ward is an
irregular octagon, the opposite sides being equal. It is strengthened by
twelve drum towers. The space between the two walls, forming the ward, is
narrow—from 40 to 50 feet broad. At one end is a gatehouse, protected by a
double traverse raking the passage, and at the other is a postern, part of a
gatehouse, either unfinished or pulled down. From one end towards the sea
shore projects a wall 5 yards broad and about 33 yards long, containing a
passage looped each way and traversed by a gateway. This is a spurwork,
and was connected with the quay, and ended in a round tower. There was
but one ditch, which girdled the whole, and was fed from the adjacent sea.
It is now filled up.
The additions to the Tower of London, by which its Norman keep and
Early English inner ward were converted into a regular concentric castle,
are skilfully managed. Here the second ward, as usual, is very narrow, and a
broad and deep ditch girdles the whole. One limb of the ditch is, however,
represented by the Thames, but between it and the outer wall is a strip of
land serving as a quay for the landing of stores, of which the rear is strongly
fortified. At each end was a sluice for regulating the water of the ditch, and
in the centre a grand and strongly fortified water-tower, with a portcullised
canal from the river, known as Traitors’ Gate. The annexed plan of the
Tower represents very fairly a composite but concentric castle.
When the size of the fortress did not require more than one ward, as at
Pennard in Gower, or where the ground was unsuitable, as at Conway and
Chepstow, the concentric arrangement was laid aside. At Chepstow the
Norman keep stands upon a steep ridge of rock, occupying its whole
Page 180
breadth. The additions, therefore, were necessarily at each end, so that the
whole castle, constructed at various times, is an oblong, composed of five
wards opening one from the other, with the keep in the centre. Its plan is, as
it were, a slice cut right across a concentric castle.
In an Edwardian castle the principal feature was the hall, spacious, well
lighted, usually with a handsome fireplace and an open timber roof. At
Beaumaris it occupies the first floor of a gatehouse; at Ludlow, Durham,
Pembroke, and Conway it is built against the curtain. The domestic
apartments opened from the dais end of the hall. The accounts of Henry III.
often record works in the halls of castles. 28 Henry III. a great louvre was
ordered for the hall at Woodstock, and a new hall 60 feet by 40 feet at
Ludgershall, with offices and two kitchens for the king and his household at
one end of it. At Chepstow Henry ordered a hall and kitchen to be
constructed of timber.
The kitchen was a very important part of an Edwardian castle. The
Norman cookery was probably very simple, and few of their keeps have any
whole castle, constructed at various times, is an oblong, composed of five
wards opening one from the other, with the keep in the centre. Its plan is, as
it were, a slice cut right across a concentric castle.
In an Edwardian castle the principal feature was the hall, spacious, well
lighted, usually with a handsome fireplace and an open timber roof. At
Beaumaris it occupies the first floor of a gatehouse; at Ludlow, Durham,
Pembroke, and Conway it is built against the curtain. The domestic
apartments opened from the dais end of the hall. The accounts of Henry III.
often record works in the halls of castles. 28 Henry III. a great louvre was
ordered for the hall at Woodstock, and a new hall 60 feet by 40 feet at
Ludgershall, with offices and two kitchens for the king and his household at
one end of it. At Chepstow Henry ordered a hall and kitchen to be
constructed of timber.
The kitchen was a very important part of an Edwardian castle. The
Norman cookery was probably very simple, and few of their keeps have any
Page 181
discoverable kitchen. The later kitchen was often a great feature in the
castle. At Caerphilly, as at Cockermouth, it occupies a large tower. At
Ludlow it stood out alone in the court-yard. At Kenilworth its remains are
considerable. The oven was often of large size. That at Morlais was 12 feet
diameter.
The chapel is also an essential part of an Edwardian castle. Many of the
Norman keeps contain mural oratories. In Newcastle, Dover, and
Middleham there were regular chapels within the forebuilding. At Guildford
the oratory is an ∟-shaped mural cell. At Caerphilly the chapel opened
from the lower end of the hall. At Kenilworth foundations of a large chapel,
of Decorated date, have been laid open in the outer ward. At Goderich the
chapel is connected with the gatehouse, and at Prudhoe. At Beaumaris,
Kidwelly, and Oxwich it occupied a mural tower. At Chepstow the chapel
was on a large scale, and in the outer ward. There is also, in Martens tower,
a charming Early English oratory. In royal castles, in the reign of Henry III.,
the chapel often appears in the accounts. In one castle Henry orders a
chapel to be constructed 25 feet long, and the head of the oriel was to be in
the king’s chamber. At Kennington Castle, the chapel was to be wainscotted
and provided with a staircase of plaster 30 feet long and 12 feet wide. Its
upper part communicated with the queen’s private chapel, and the
household sat below. At Winchester the chapel opened into the queen’s
chamber, and at Woodstock was a passage between the two, so that the
queen could go and return dryshod. Twelve mats for the worshippers were
ordered in St. Thomas’ Chapel in Winchester Castle. Many of the larger
castles contained regularly endowed chapels, sometimes, as at Windsor,
even collegiate. Pontefract and Hastings were so provided. This was also
the practice in Scotland. Dalkeith Castle had a chapel endowed in 1377, and
to Lord Moray’s chapel, in Bucharm Castle, were attached certain tithes
early in the thirteenth century. At Dunster and elsewhere was a provision
that the officiating monks, who came from an adjacent priory, should during
a siege perform their services at home.
An Edwardian gatehouse is a very imposing structure. It was usually
rectangular in plan, always flanked in front by two drum towers, and
sometimes in the rear by two others containing well-staircases. In its centre
was the portal arch opening into a long straight passage traversing the
building. Three loops in each flanking tower commanded the bridge of
castle. At Caerphilly, as at Cockermouth, it occupies a large tower. At
Ludlow it stood out alone in the court-yard. At Kenilworth its remains are
considerable. The oven was often of large size. That at Morlais was 12 feet
diameter.
The chapel is also an essential part of an Edwardian castle. Many of the
Norman keeps contain mural oratories. In Newcastle, Dover, and
Middleham there were regular chapels within the forebuilding. At Guildford
the oratory is an ∟-shaped mural cell. At Caerphilly the chapel opened
from the lower end of the hall. At Kenilworth foundations of a large chapel,
of Decorated date, have been laid open in the outer ward. At Goderich the
chapel is connected with the gatehouse, and at Prudhoe. At Beaumaris,
Kidwelly, and Oxwich it occupied a mural tower. At Chepstow the chapel
was on a large scale, and in the outer ward. There is also, in Martens tower,
a charming Early English oratory. In royal castles, in the reign of Henry III.,
the chapel often appears in the accounts. In one castle Henry orders a
chapel to be constructed 25 feet long, and the head of the oriel was to be in
the king’s chamber. At Kennington Castle, the chapel was to be wainscotted
and provided with a staircase of plaster 30 feet long and 12 feet wide. Its
upper part communicated with the queen’s private chapel, and the
household sat below. At Winchester the chapel opened into the queen’s
chamber, and at Woodstock was a passage between the two, so that the
queen could go and return dryshod. Twelve mats for the worshippers were
ordered in St. Thomas’ Chapel in Winchester Castle. Many of the larger
castles contained regularly endowed chapels, sometimes, as at Windsor,
even collegiate. Pontefract and Hastings were so provided. This was also
the practice in Scotland. Dalkeith Castle had a chapel endowed in 1377, and
to Lord Moray’s chapel, in Bucharm Castle, were attached certain tithes
early in the thirteenth century. At Dunster and elsewhere was a provision
that the officiating monks, who came from an adjacent priory, should during
a siege perform their services at home.
An Edwardian gatehouse is a very imposing structure. It was usually
rectangular in plan, always flanked in front by two drum towers, and
sometimes in the rear by two others containing well-staircases. In its centre
was the portal arch opening into a long straight passage traversing the
building. Three loops in each flanking tower commanded the bridge of
Page 182
approach, raked the lateral curtain, and covered a point immediately outside
the gate. Above the portal was usually a small window, and above that, at
the summit, a machicolation set out on corbels, or in its place a sort of
bridge, thrown across from tower to tower a couple of feet in advance of the
wall, so that a chase or slot was left, down which stones or even beams
could be let fall upon those who might be assailing the gate below. Such an
arrangement is seen at Neath, Leybourne, and Pembroke, and is not
uncommon. Over the town gate at Coucy and at the barbican gate at Ledes
the projection was of timber, and part of it remains.
The portal arch, wide enough to admit a wain, or three men-at-arms
abreast, was usually of the form known as “drop.” Within, the first defence
was a herse or portcullis, and behind it a door of two leaves, opening
inwards, and, when closed, held by one or two stout bars of oak, which
could be pushed back into cavities in the wall. Behind the door the vaulting
was often replaced by a flat roof of timber, through which worked a second
portcullis, and then came two lateral doorways opening into porters’ lodges,
usually connected with a small prison. At St. Briavels the lodge doors are
portcullised. At the end of the boarded space the vault recommenced, and
there was a second pair of doors and a second portcullis. These two were
intended against assaults from within, each gatehouse being constructed for
an independent defence.
Usually, in addition to these gates and doors, the vault was pierced with
from one to five square or round holes, about a foot across, called
“meurtrières.” These might serve to hold posts to check the entrance of a
body of men, or for thrusting pikes down upon them. They have also been
supposed to be intended to allow water to be poured down, supposing the
passage filled with bushes set on fire, though it is difficult to see how any
quantity of water could be obtained, any more than melted lead or pitch,
which are spoken of. The first floor of the larger gatehouses contained a
handsome chamber with lateral doors leading to the ramparts of the curtain,
and sometimes, as at Caerphilly and the Tower, to an oratory. The
portcullises were worked through the floor, and their tackle must have given
an air of warlike reality to the room, like the guns in a state-cabin at sea. At
Caerphilly and Chepstow the passage to the curtains is protected by a
portcullis and a drawbridge, of which the pit is a deep hollow in the wall.
the gate. Above the portal was usually a small window, and above that, at
the summit, a machicolation set out on corbels, or in its place a sort of
bridge, thrown across from tower to tower a couple of feet in advance of the
wall, so that a chase or slot was left, down which stones or even beams
could be let fall upon those who might be assailing the gate below. Such an
arrangement is seen at Neath, Leybourne, and Pembroke, and is not
uncommon. Over the town gate at Coucy and at the barbican gate at Ledes
the projection was of timber, and part of it remains.
The portal arch, wide enough to admit a wain, or three men-at-arms
abreast, was usually of the form known as “drop.” Within, the first defence
was a herse or portcullis, and behind it a door of two leaves, opening
inwards, and, when closed, held by one or two stout bars of oak, which
could be pushed back into cavities in the wall. Behind the door the vaulting
was often replaced by a flat roof of timber, through which worked a second
portcullis, and then came two lateral doorways opening into porters’ lodges,
usually connected with a small prison. At St. Briavels the lodge doors are
portcullised. At the end of the boarded space the vault recommenced, and
there was a second pair of doors and a second portcullis. These two were
intended against assaults from within, each gatehouse being constructed for
an independent defence.
Usually, in addition to these gates and doors, the vault was pierced with
from one to five square or round holes, about a foot across, called
“meurtrières.” These might serve to hold posts to check the entrance of a
body of men, or for thrusting pikes down upon them. They have also been
supposed to be intended to allow water to be poured down, supposing the
passage filled with bushes set on fire, though it is difficult to see how any
quantity of water could be obtained, any more than melted lead or pitch,
which are spoken of. The first floor of the larger gatehouses contained a
handsome chamber with lateral doors leading to the ramparts of the curtain,
and sometimes, as at Caerphilly and the Tower, to an oratory. The
portcullises were worked through the floor, and their tackle must have given
an air of warlike reality to the room, like the guns in a state-cabin at sea. At
Caerphilly and Chepstow the passage to the curtains is protected by a
portcullis and a drawbridge, of which the pit is a deep hollow in the wall.
Page 183
The walls of these Edwardian castles varied from 25 to 40 feet in height
and were from 6 to 8 feet thick, or even more, to allow of mural galleries, as
at Chepstow, Caerphilly, and Beaumaris. Upon their top was a path called
the “allure,” or rampart walk, protected in front by an embattled parapet,
and in the rear by lower and lighter walls. Frequently there was a loop in
each merlon, and each embrasure was fitted with a hanging shutter, both of
which are seen at Chepstow. Where the curtain crosses a ward or projects as
a spur, as at Caerphilly and Beaumaris, it was embattled on both faces. The
ramparts were usually reached from the adjacent mural towers, but
sometimes, as at Warwick, by an open staircase of stone. Occasionally,
where a wall is too slight to allow of a rampart wall, it was, in time of war,
provided with a platform of wood, like a builder’s scaffold. This seems to
have been the case with the city wall of York where it bounds the cathedral
garden.
Mural towers vary much in form and size, but are more usually round, or
half-round, or half-round with prolonged sides, than square. Now and then
they are polygonal, as at Stokesay, Warwick, Cardiff, and the Bishop’s
Gatehouse at Llandaff. Stokesay is of the thirteenth century, but usually
these towers are later. Mural towers have seldom much internal projection.
In Roman works they are usually solid, but in later castles they are
sometimes open in the rear or gorge to prevent their being held when taken
by the assailants. The towers of Cologne and Avignon are so open, and at
the Tower the Byward and Traitors’ Gate towers are closed only with a
wooden brattice. The annexed drawing shows the back view of Traitors’
Gate, with the large arch over the water and the timber-work above it.
Where there was an outer ward and a second wall, this was considerably
lower than the inner wall, and commanded from it; and the mural towers
often became mere bastions, not rising above the curtains. The second ward,
besides being too narrow to allow of troops being massed or machines
posted for the attack on the inner wall, was traversed by cross walls with
gates, so as to isolate any body of assailants who had breached the outer
wall. Such cross walls may be seen at Caerphilly and at the Tower.
The barbican was sometimes a mere walled space attached in front of the
gateway, as at Carlisle, Alnwick, Richmond, or the Bars at York. Sometimes
it was a tête du pont, detached from the main work, and posted at the end of
the bridge, upon the counterscarp of the ditch, as at Hawarden, Ledes, and
and were from 6 to 8 feet thick, or even more, to allow of mural galleries, as
at Chepstow, Caerphilly, and Beaumaris. Upon their top was a path called
the “allure,” or rampart walk, protected in front by an embattled parapet,
and in the rear by lower and lighter walls. Frequently there was a loop in
each merlon, and each embrasure was fitted with a hanging shutter, both of
which are seen at Chepstow. Where the curtain crosses a ward or projects as
a spur, as at Caerphilly and Beaumaris, it was embattled on both faces. The
ramparts were usually reached from the adjacent mural towers, but
sometimes, as at Warwick, by an open staircase of stone. Occasionally,
where a wall is too slight to allow of a rampart wall, it was, in time of war,
provided with a platform of wood, like a builder’s scaffold. This seems to
have been the case with the city wall of York where it bounds the cathedral
garden.
Mural towers vary much in form and size, but are more usually round, or
half-round, or half-round with prolonged sides, than square. Now and then
they are polygonal, as at Stokesay, Warwick, Cardiff, and the Bishop’s
Gatehouse at Llandaff. Stokesay is of the thirteenth century, but usually
these towers are later. Mural towers have seldom much internal projection.
In Roman works they are usually solid, but in later castles they are
sometimes open in the rear or gorge to prevent their being held when taken
by the assailants. The towers of Cologne and Avignon are so open, and at
the Tower the Byward and Traitors’ Gate towers are closed only with a
wooden brattice. The annexed drawing shows the back view of Traitors’
Gate, with the large arch over the water and the timber-work above it.
Where there was an outer ward and a second wall, this was considerably
lower than the inner wall, and commanded from it; and the mural towers
often became mere bastions, not rising above the curtains. The second ward,
besides being too narrow to allow of troops being massed or machines
posted for the attack on the inner wall, was traversed by cross walls with
gates, so as to isolate any body of assailants who had breached the outer
wall. Such cross walls may be seen at Caerphilly and at the Tower.
The barbican was sometimes a mere walled space attached in front of the
gateway, as at Carlisle, Alnwick, Richmond, or the Bars at York. Sometimes
it was a tête du pont, detached from the main work, and posted at the end of
the bridge, upon the counterscarp of the ditch, as at Hawarden, Ledes, and
Page 184
Goderich. At Scarborough it is placed at the outer end of the long raised
causeway, which, again, is broken by two drawbridges falling from a low
central tower. At Helmsley, as at Caerphilly, the barbican partakes of the
character of a horn-work. The Tower barbican, called the Spurgate, is a
regular low gatehouse, with flanking drum towers or bastions covering the
head of the bridge, and itself protected by a loop from the main ditch. At
Bridgenorth the barbican contained a kitchen, ordered to be repaired, 17
Hen. III. At Canterbury the barbican, temp. Ed. II., was used as a prison.
Spelman defines a barbican or “ante-murale” as “munimen a fronte castri
aliter ante murale dictum; etiam foramen in urbium castrorumque mœniis
ad trajicienda missilia.”
A palisaded embrasure in front of the barbican was known as the
“barriers.” They are well represented at the Tower by the stockade covering
the entrance.
The drawbridge was an important feature in the defence of a castle. In its
most simple form it was a platform of timber turning upon two gudgeons or
trunnions at the inner end; when up, it concealed the portal, and when
down, dropped upon a pier in the ditch or upon the counterscarp. Its span
causeway, which, again, is broken by two drawbridges falling from a low
central tower. At Helmsley, as at Caerphilly, the barbican partakes of the
character of a horn-work. The Tower barbican, called the Spurgate, is a
regular low gatehouse, with flanking drum towers or bastions covering the
head of the bridge, and itself protected by a loop from the main ditch. At
Bridgenorth the barbican contained a kitchen, ordered to be repaired, 17
Hen. III. At Canterbury the barbican, temp. Ed. II., was used as a prison.
Spelman defines a barbican or “ante-murale” as “munimen a fronte castri
aliter ante murale dictum; etiam foramen in urbium castrorumque mœniis
ad trajicienda missilia.”
A palisaded embrasure in front of the barbican was known as the
“barriers.” They are well represented at the Tower by the stockade covering
the entrance.
The drawbridge was an important feature in the defence of a castle. In its
most simple form it was a platform of timber turning upon two gudgeons or
trunnions at the inner end; when up, it concealed the portal, and when
down, dropped upon a pier in the ditch or upon the counterscarp. Its span
Page 185
varied from 8 to 12 feet. The contrivances for working it were various.
Sometimes chains attached to its outer end passed through holes above the
portal, and were worked within by hand or by a counterpoise. Occasionally
there was a frame above the bridge, also on trunnions. In the larger castles
the arrangements were very elaborate. Sometimes the bridge was the only
connexion between the gateway and the opposite pier; at others the parapets
or face walls rested on a fixed arch, and the bridge dropped between them.
A fine example of this kind of bridge is seen at the Constable’s Gate, Dover
Castle. At Goderich the details are tolerably perfect. The ditch was crossed
by a stone bridge, apparently of two arches, but only the outer one is
permanent. The roadway of the inner one was a drawbridge. At Caerphilly,
in the ditch in front of the main gate, is a large stone pier from which a
bridge fell each way. Probably it carried a tower of timber. In Henry III.’s
accounts is mention of a brétasche on the bridge of the great tower at
Winchester, and of another, covered with lead, upon the new bridge.
The portcullis, the “altera securitas” of the badge of the House of
Somerset, always present in the castles of Henry and Edward, was an
important part of the defence. It was a strong grating, in the smaller
gateways of iron, in the larger of oak, strengthened and shod with iron
spikes, and suspended in grooves by two cords or chains, which passed over
two sheaves, or sometimes through a single central block, and either were
attached to counterpoises or worked, as at the Tower and York gates, by a
winch. The grooves are generally half-round, with slightly prolonged sides,
4 to 6 inches broad by from 4 to 7 inches deep. Above, in the vault, is a
chase through which the grate is worked. Sometimes the portcullis chamber
is a small cell in the wall, as at Rochester keep and Coucy, but in large
gateways where there are two or three grates, they are worked in the
chamber above. At Linlithgow and Thornton Abbey, where the grate is
single, it is carried up within the wall and worked in the second story.
Sometimes the grate had no lateral grooves, and must have either hung
loose or been steadied by its spikes resting on the ground below. This is
seen at St. Briavels and at the upper gate of Chepstow, though never with an
outer portcullis. Sometimes grooves are cut for a spare grate, but do not
appear to have been armed.
Nothing is more remarkable than the provisions for cleanliness in
military buildings. At Ludlow, Langley, and Caerphilly Castles are large
Sometimes chains attached to its outer end passed through holes above the
portal, and were worked within by hand or by a counterpoise. Occasionally
there was a frame above the bridge, also on trunnions. In the larger castles
the arrangements were very elaborate. Sometimes the bridge was the only
connexion between the gateway and the opposite pier; at others the parapets
or face walls rested on a fixed arch, and the bridge dropped between them.
A fine example of this kind of bridge is seen at the Constable’s Gate, Dover
Castle. At Goderich the details are tolerably perfect. The ditch was crossed
by a stone bridge, apparently of two arches, but only the outer one is
permanent. The roadway of the inner one was a drawbridge. At Caerphilly,
in the ditch in front of the main gate, is a large stone pier from which a
bridge fell each way. Probably it carried a tower of timber. In Henry III.’s
accounts is mention of a brétasche on the bridge of the great tower at
Winchester, and of another, covered with lead, upon the new bridge.
The portcullis, the “altera securitas” of the badge of the House of
Somerset, always present in the castles of Henry and Edward, was an
important part of the defence. It was a strong grating, in the smaller
gateways of iron, in the larger of oak, strengthened and shod with iron
spikes, and suspended in grooves by two cords or chains, which passed over
two sheaves, or sometimes through a single central block, and either were
attached to counterpoises or worked, as at the Tower and York gates, by a
winch. The grooves are generally half-round, with slightly prolonged sides,
4 to 6 inches broad by from 4 to 7 inches deep. Above, in the vault, is a
chase through which the grate is worked. Sometimes the portcullis chamber
is a small cell in the wall, as at Rochester keep and Coucy, but in large
gateways where there are two or three grates, they are worked in the
chamber above. At Linlithgow and Thornton Abbey, where the grate is
single, it is carried up within the wall and worked in the second story.
Sometimes the grate had no lateral grooves, and must have either hung
loose or been steadied by its spikes resting on the ground below. This is
seen at St. Briavels and at the upper gate of Chepstow, though never with an
outer portcullis. Sometimes grooves are cut for a spare grate, but do not
appear to have been armed.
Nothing is more remarkable than the provisions for cleanliness in
military buildings. At Ludlow, Langley, and Caerphilly Castles are large
Page 186
mural towers appropriated to garderobes. At Goderich they occupy a broad
buttress. At Beaumaris the sewers are of very large size, and run within the
main curtain like galleries. Such sewers are often supposed to be secret
passages, though the garderobes above, and the character of the outlets
below, should correct this notion. At Coyty the filth was collected in an
enormous vaulted chamber. The ramparts of the curtains are also usually
provided with garderobes.
Subterranean chambers were not more frequent in England in the
thirteenth and fourteenth than in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and if
we have nothing like the magnificent tiers of vaulting in the tower of
Coucy, neither have we anything like the wretched cells and oubliettes
found in German castles, and of which those of Baden-Baden are examples.
The basement chambers of mural towers are, indeed, often below the level
of the court-yard, but they are above that of the ditch outside. At Castel
Coch, near Cardiff, is about the worst dungeon in Britain, but even this is
not underground.
The posterns in these castles are often very elaborate. There is a very fine
one at Windsor, opening in the castle ditch, and intended for the passage of
cavalry. This is probably of the age of Henry III. At Caerphilly are two with
regular gatehouses and drawbridges. Sometimes the postern is a small door
with a grate. That at Goderich was worked in the floor above, so that it
required two men in two several places to open or close the postern. At
Caerphilly are two water-posterns; one out of which a boat could be
lowered into the lake, the other at the water-level, as at Ledes and
Tonbridge. Harlech water-gate has been mentioned.
The castles both of Henry and Edward combine the palace with the
fortress, but the domestic are always subordinate to the military
arrangements. Whether absolutely original, as Caerphilly or Beaumaris, or
completions of older works, as Corfe, Dover, and the Tower, they usually
present a grand appearance, and the masonry is generally excellent.
Very many of our principal towns were walled in during the reigns of
Henry and Edward; some—as York, Leicester, Colchester, and Chester—
took advantage of the Roman wall. Northampton was walled before 1278.
At Winchester the wall was founded upon an early earth-bank. The only
licences granted for town walls appear to have been to the men of Harwich
buttress. At Beaumaris the sewers are of very large size, and run within the
main curtain like galleries. Such sewers are often supposed to be secret
passages, though the garderobes above, and the character of the outlets
below, should correct this notion. At Coyty the filth was collected in an
enormous vaulted chamber. The ramparts of the curtains are also usually
provided with garderobes.
Subterranean chambers were not more frequent in England in the
thirteenth and fourteenth than in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and if
we have nothing like the magnificent tiers of vaulting in the tower of
Coucy, neither have we anything like the wretched cells and oubliettes
found in German castles, and of which those of Baden-Baden are examples.
The basement chambers of mural towers are, indeed, often below the level
of the court-yard, but they are above that of the ditch outside. At Castel
Coch, near Cardiff, is about the worst dungeon in Britain, but even this is
not underground.
The posterns in these castles are often very elaborate. There is a very fine
one at Windsor, opening in the castle ditch, and intended for the passage of
cavalry. This is probably of the age of Henry III. At Caerphilly are two with
regular gatehouses and drawbridges. Sometimes the postern is a small door
with a grate. That at Goderich was worked in the floor above, so that it
required two men in two several places to open or close the postern. At
Caerphilly are two water-posterns; one out of which a boat could be
lowered into the lake, the other at the water-level, as at Ledes and
Tonbridge. Harlech water-gate has been mentioned.
The castles both of Henry and Edward combine the palace with the
fortress, but the domestic are always subordinate to the military
arrangements. Whether absolutely original, as Caerphilly or Beaumaris, or
completions of older works, as Corfe, Dover, and the Tower, they usually
present a grand appearance, and the masonry is generally excellent.
Very many of our principal towns were walled in during the reigns of
Henry and Edward; some—as York, Leicester, Colchester, and Chester—
took advantage of the Roman wall. Northampton was walled before 1278.
At Winchester the wall was founded upon an early earth-bank. The only
licences granted for town walls appear to have been to the men of Harwich
Page 187
and Ipswich, 26 Ed. III.; the Mayor and prud-hommes (probi homines) of
Coventry, 37 and 38 Ed. III.; of Salisbury, 46 Ed. III.; and of Winchelsea, 3
Hy.; the defences of Hereford, a very exposed place, seem to have been
formed of briars and thorns, placed upon very formidable banks of earth. It
sometimes happened that the gatehouses were of masonry, while the rest of
the defences were banks of earth stockaded.
The fourteenth century was prolific in castles, chiefly of the smaller
class, upon the Scottish border and in Scotland. In England Dacre,
Dunstanborough, and Spofforth were built early in that century; the Palace
Castle of St. David’s was built in 1342, Caesar’s Tower at Warwick about
1360, and Guy’s Tower in 1394, two magnificent works. Gradually,
however, pure castles fell into disuse, and such structures as Bolton and
Wressill and Sheriff-Hutton took their place, affecting generally the form of
a square court, round which the buildings were ranged, and which was
entered by a regular gatehouse. In these, however, the castellate character
was employed more from custom than from necessity, and the external
windows are large, and the walls of very moderate thickness. Many of the
royal castles were left to decay, and others were employed as prisons and
handed over to the counties. A short Act of the 13 R. II. orders “that the
King’s castles and gaols should be joined to the bodies of the counties, and,
where severed, should be reunited.”
Castle-building was from a very early time considered as a royal
prerogative, though in the reigns immediately succeeding the Conquest, it
was so great an object to hold the country, that the claim seems to have
been allowed to slumber. The wholesale destruction of the adulterine or
unlicensed castles which followed upon the death of Stephen showed the
revival of the prerogative, and, in the reign of Henry III., a regular form of
licence, “licentia crenellare,” had to be granted before a house could
lawfully be fortified. The earliest known of these licences was granted by
Henry III. to the Bishop of Winchester in 1257–8, to enable him to fortify
the Isle of Portland. Henry granted 20 of these licences; Edward I., 44;
Edward II., 60; Edward III., 181; Richard II., 60; Henry IV., 8; Henry V., 1;
Henry VI., 5; and Edward IV., 3. A very complete list of these licences,
prepared by Sir J. Duffus Hardy, has been printed by Mr. Parker. Of the 382
given by him, only four relate to castles of importance; Belvoir, Bungay,
Dudley, and Whitchurch, all of which had been fortified before legal
Coventry, 37 and 38 Ed. III.; of Salisbury, 46 Ed. III.; and of Winchelsea, 3
Hy.; the defences of Hereford, a very exposed place, seem to have been
formed of briars and thorns, placed upon very formidable banks of earth. It
sometimes happened that the gatehouses were of masonry, while the rest of
the defences were banks of earth stockaded.
The fourteenth century was prolific in castles, chiefly of the smaller
class, upon the Scottish border and in Scotland. In England Dacre,
Dunstanborough, and Spofforth were built early in that century; the Palace
Castle of St. David’s was built in 1342, Caesar’s Tower at Warwick about
1360, and Guy’s Tower in 1394, two magnificent works. Gradually,
however, pure castles fell into disuse, and such structures as Bolton and
Wressill and Sheriff-Hutton took their place, affecting generally the form of
a square court, round which the buildings were ranged, and which was
entered by a regular gatehouse. In these, however, the castellate character
was employed more from custom than from necessity, and the external
windows are large, and the walls of very moderate thickness. Many of the
royal castles were left to decay, and others were employed as prisons and
handed over to the counties. A short Act of the 13 R. II. orders “that the
King’s castles and gaols should be joined to the bodies of the counties, and,
where severed, should be reunited.”
Castle-building was from a very early time considered as a royal
prerogative, though in the reigns immediately succeeding the Conquest, it
was so great an object to hold the country, that the claim seems to have
been allowed to slumber. The wholesale destruction of the adulterine or
unlicensed castles which followed upon the death of Stephen showed the
revival of the prerogative, and, in the reign of Henry III., a regular form of
licence, “licentia crenellare,” had to be granted before a house could
lawfully be fortified. The earliest known of these licences was granted by
Henry III. to the Bishop of Winchester in 1257–8, to enable him to fortify
the Isle of Portland. Henry granted 20 of these licences; Edward I., 44;
Edward II., 60; Edward III., 181; Richard II., 60; Henry IV., 8; Henry V., 1;
Henry VI., 5; and Edward IV., 3. A very complete list of these licences,
prepared by Sir J. Duffus Hardy, has been printed by Mr. Parker. Of the 382
given by him, only four relate to castles of importance; Belvoir, Bungay,
Dudley, and Whitchurch, all of which had been fortified before legal
Page 188
memory. Most of the others relate to manor-houses, some to bishops’
palaces and cathedral closes, some to monasteries, some to houses in cities,
and some to castles probably then first built, or perhaps rebuilt on a larger
scale. Such were Apley, Aldworth, Amberley, Bodiam, Bolton, Bothal,
Cowling, Dunstanborough, Ford, Harewood, Naworth, Penrith, Rose
Castle, Stokesay, Shirburne, Tanfield, Tongue, and Wardour, most of which
are still standing, and two or three inhabited.
The following, from the Patent Roll, 15 Hen. VI., 1437, is a part of the
licence granted to Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, and his Duchess, who
proposed to build a strong house upon the hill now occupied by the Royal
Observatory at Greenwich: “Muris petra et calce includere et firmare, et
muros illos kernellare, batellare, et turrellare, ac quandam turrim infra
parcum prædictum similiter petra et calce de novo construere, edificare, ac
tam turrim illam sic de novo constructam et edificatam quam dictum
manerium sive mansionem ut præmittitur inclusum, firmatum, kernellatum,
imbattellatum, et turrellatum, tenere possint sibi et hæredibus suis prædictis
in perpetuum.”
Innis (“Sketches,” 444) gives a corresponding licence from the Earl of
Ross, in 1406, for the building of Kilravock.
“Johne of Yle, Erle of Ross ande Lord of the Ilis, to all ande sundry to
quhais knawlage thir our present letteris sall come, greeting. Witte us to
have gevyn ande grantit, and be thir present letteris gevis ande grantis, our
full power ande licence till our luffid cosing, man ande tennand, Huchone
de Roos, Baron of Kylravok, to fund, big, ande upmak a toure of fens, with
barmkin and bataling, upon quhat place of strynth him best likes, within the
barony of Kilrawok, without any contradictioun or demaund, questioun, or
any obiection to put in contrar of him or his ayris, be us or our ayris, for the
said toure ande barmkyn making, with the bataling, now or in tyme to cum.
In witnes hereof, ye haf gert our sele to ther letteris be affixt at Inuernys, the
achtend day of Februar, the yer of Godd a thousand four hundreth sixte
yer.”
Mr. Innis points out that one of James’s first acts on returning from his
English captivity was to order the owners of all castles and manor-places to
make them habitable and to live in them; and he adds that it is remarkable
“How many Scotch castles date from the half century following the above
palaces and cathedral closes, some to monasteries, some to houses in cities,
and some to castles probably then first built, or perhaps rebuilt on a larger
scale. Such were Apley, Aldworth, Amberley, Bodiam, Bolton, Bothal,
Cowling, Dunstanborough, Ford, Harewood, Naworth, Penrith, Rose
Castle, Stokesay, Shirburne, Tanfield, Tongue, and Wardour, most of which
are still standing, and two or three inhabited.
The following, from the Patent Roll, 15 Hen. VI., 1437, is a part of the
licence granted to Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, and his Duchess, who
proposed to build a strong house upon the hill now occupied by the Royal
Observatory at Greenwich: “Muris petra et calce includere et firmare, et
muros illos kernellare, batellare, et turrellare, ac quandam turrim infra
parcum prædictum similiter petra et calce de novo construere, edificare, ac
tam turrim illam sic de novo constructam et edificatam quam dictum
manerium sive mansionem ut præmittitur inclusum, firmatum, kernellatum,
imbattellatum, et turrellatum, tenere possint sibi et hæredibus suis prædictis
in perpetuum.”
Innis (“Sketches,” 444) gives a corresponding licence from the Earl of
Ross, in 1406, for the building of Kilravock.
“Johne of Yle, Erle of Ross ande Lord of the Ilis, to all ande sundry to
quhais knawlage thir our present letteris sall come, greeting. Witte us to
have gevyn ande grantit, and be thir present letteris gevis ande grantis, our
full power ande licence till our luffid cosing, man ande tennand, Huchone
de Roos, Baron of Kylravok, to fund, big, ande upmak a toure of fens, with
barmkin and bataling, upon quhat place of strynth him best likes, within the
barony of Kilrawok, without any contradictioun or demaund, questioun, or
any obiection to put in contrar of him or his ayris, be us or our ayris, for the
said toure ande barmkyn making, with the bataling, now or in tyme to cum.
In witnes hereof, ye haf gert our sele to ther letteris be affixt at Inuernys, the
achtend day of Februar, the yer of Godd a thousand four hundreth sixte
yer.”
Mr. Innis points out that one of James’s first acts on returning from his
English captivity was to order the owners of all castles and manor-places to
make them habitable and to live in them; and he adds that it is remarkable
“How many Scotch castles date from the half century following the above
Page 189
enactment, and all of one design—a stern, square keep, rudely kernellated,
and surmounted with a cap-house, partially surrounded by a barbican or
barmkin, affording protection to the inhabitants and their cattle from the
hurried inroads of rough-handed neighbours.”
MEDIÆVAL MILITARY ARCHITECTURE.
DESCRIPTIONS.
“ . . . . . Time
Has mouldered into beauty many a tower,
Which, when it frowned with all its battlements,
Was only terrible. . . . . —Mason.
and surmounted with a cap-house, partially surrounded by a barbican or
barmkin, affording protection to the inhabitants and their cattle from the
hurried inroads of rough-handed neighbours.”
MEDIÆVAL MILITARY ARCHITECTURE.
DESCRIPTIONS.
“ . . . . . Time
Has mouldered into beauty many a tower,
Which, when it frowned with all its battlements,
Was only terrible. . . . . —Mason.
Page 190
ALNWICK CASTLE, NORTHUMBERLAND.
THE castle of Alnwick stands upon a moderate eminence on the south bank
of, and about 150 yards distant from, the river Alne, which was thus its
immediate defence against the Scot. It is about five miles from, and about
200 feet above, the sea-level. Towards the east and south the castle is cut off
from the town of Alnwick by a deep combe, once the bed of the Bow Burn.
This has been trimmed and scarped by art, and its upper part towards the
town has been almost obliterated by modern upfilling.
To the west is a nearly level platform in front of the castle, and separated
from it by a ditch wholly artificial, and in part filled up and covered by the
stables. This ditch was formerly produced along the south front, and
communicated with the Bow Burn ravine. A modern bank of earth conceals
the town from the castle on this, the south-western quarter.
The walls of Alnwick town were embattled, and probably built, under a
licence to Henry Percy, in 1434, when he constructed the Bond Gate, now
standing. It is uncertain whether the town wall was independent of the
castle, as at Chepstow, or abutted against its outer wall, as at Carlisle. The
main entrance to the castle and its principal postern were both outside the
town. The former was approached from it by a town gate, the position of
which is remembered, and its name preserved, in the way called “Narrow
Gate.” The castle postern opens towards the river. The Lion gateway in the
south wall, leading to the town and the railway station, is altogether a
modern structure, but may represent a by-gate communicating with the
town.
In plan the castle is irregular and many-sided; the west and south sides
terminate, the one in the Abbot’s Tower, and the other in the Eastern or
Ravine Tower, and are 125 yards and 213 yards long; and the side towards
the river, and contained between these two towers, is 226 yards. The area
within the walls is nearly 3 acres; that included by the ditch is near 7 acres.
There is no single keep-tower. The keep is in plan an irregular polygon,
set round with clustered towers, and containing a central court. This is
THE castle of Alnwick stands upon a moderate eminence on the south bank
of, and about 150 yards distant from, the river Alne, which was thus its
immediate defence against the Scot. It is about five miles from, and about
200 feet above, the sea-level. Towards the east and south the castle is cut off
from the town of Alnwick by a deep combe, once the bed of the Bow Burn.
This has been trimmed and scarped by art, and its upper part towards the
town has been almost obliterated by modern upfilling.
To the west is a nearly level platform in front of the castle, and separated
from it by a ditch wholly artificial, and in part filled up and covered by the
stables. This ditch was formerly produced along the south front, and
communicated with the Bow Burn ravine. A modern bank of earth conceals
the town from the castle on this, the south-western quarter.
The walls of Alnwick town were embattled, and probably built, under a
licence to Henry Percy, in 1434, when he constructed the Bond Gate, now
standing. It is uncertain whether the town wall was independent of the
castle, as at Chepstow, or abutted against its outer wall, as at Carlisle. The
main entrance to the castle and its principal postern were both outside the
town. The former was approached from it by a town gate, the position of
which is remembered, and its name preserved, in the way called “Narrow
Gate.” The castle postern opens towards the river. The Lion gateway in the
south wall, leading to the town and the railway station, is altogether a
modern structure, but may represent a by-gate communicating with the
town.
In plan the castle is irregular and many-sided; the west and south sides
terminate, the one in the Abbot’s Tower, and the other in the Eastern or
Ravine Tower, and are 125 yards and 213 yards long; and the side towards
the river, and contained between these two towers, is 226 yards. The area
within the walls is nearly 3 acres; that included by the ditch is near 7 acres.
There is no single keep-tower. The keep is in plan an irregular polygon,
set round with clustered towers, and containing a central court. This is
Page 191
placed nearly in the middle of the general inclosure, with which it was
connected at three points: one, on the south, by a bold and lofty gallery
which has replaced an original curtain, and projects 35 yards from the keep
to a gatehouse which divides the eastern and western wards, and is known
as the Middle Gate. The other connexions on the north side were two
curtain walls, of which one reached from the keep 33 yards to the
Falconer’s Tower, now rebuilt and shifted, and had upon it the Armourer’s
Tower, now destroyed; and the other was a curtain, now removed, which
extended 20 yards from the keep to the Postern Tower.
By these arrangements the area was subdivided into an outer or western,
an inner or eastern ward, and a central open keep. There remained,
however, on the north front a three-sided space, bounded by the keep and
the two curtains, and flanked by the Falconer’s and Postern towers. This
space, open towards the river, is at present protected on that side by a low
retaining terrace-wall and bastions of very modern date. A survey of 1567
shows this side open, and no doubt it was so originally; the river, its steep
bank, the keep, the flanking towers and curtains, and no doubt palisade,
being regarded as a sufficient defence. This disposition is, however,
singular and very curious, and looks as though the engineer wished to
attract the enemy to this the strongest and most completely flanked part, by
a show of weakness by the absence of an outer enceinte. Economy of
construction could not have been the motive, for the cross curtains, in
length, would go some way towards completing the broken enceinte.
It would seem, from existing fragments and traces of foundations, that
the lines of the present enceinte and keep are those of the old Norman
fortress. The outline is governed very much by the disposition of the
ground, and the shell keep was the approved Norman way of occupying
such a knoll, whether natural, as at Durham, or artificial, as at Windsor, or,
as here, probably a very slight addition to a natural knoll. A distinct ditch,
now filled up, encircled the keep and protected it from its containing wards.
Towards the river this ditch seems to have worked out into a steep scarp.
The keep is at this time an open court surrounded by towers. To the
south-east, the gatehouse, about 40 feet deep and 20 feet wide, has grand
external and internal round-headed Norman arches of 9 feet 2 inches span,
the vault between being segmental and crossed by plain chamfered ribs. The
exterior arch has a double band of bold chevron mouldings within a circle
connected at three points: one, on the south, by a bold and lofty gallery
which has replaced an original curtain, and projects 35 yards from the keep
to a gatehouse which divides the eastern and western wards, and is known
as the Middle Gate. The other connexions on the north side were two
curtain walls, of which one reached from the keep 33 yards to the
Falconer’s Tower, now rebuilt and shifted, and had upon it the Armourer’s
Tower, now destroyed; and the other was a curtain, now removed, which
extended 20 yards from the keep to the Postern Tower.
By these arrangements the area was subdivided into an outer or western,
an inner or eastern ward, and a central open keep. There remained,
however, on the north front a three-sided space, bounded by the keep and
the two curtains, and flanked by the Falconer’s and Postern towers. This
space, open towards the river, is at present protected on that side by a low
retaining terrace-wall and bastions of very modern date. A survey of 1567
shows this side open, and no doubt it was so originally; the river, its steep
bank, the keep, the flanking towers and curtains, and no doubt palisade,
being regarded as a sufficient defence. This disposition is, however,
singular and very curious, and looks as though the engineer wished to
attract the enemy to this the strongest and most completely flanked part, by
a show of weakness by the absence of an outer enceinte. Economy of
construction could not have been the motive, for the cross curtains, in
length, would go some way towards completing the broken enceinte.
It would seem, from existing fragments and traces of foundations, that
the lines of the present enceinte and keep are those of the old Norman
fortress. The outline is governed very much by the disposition of the
ground, and the shell keep was the approved Norman way of occupying
such a knoll, whether natural, as at Durham, or artificial, as at Windsor, or,
as here, probably a very slight addition to a natural knoll. A distinct ditch,
now filled up, encircled the keep and protected it from its containing wards.
Towards the river this ditch seems to have worked out into a steep scarp.
The keep is at this time an open court surrounded by towers. To the
south-east, the gatehouse, about 40 feet deep and 20 feet wide, has grand
external and internal round-headed Norman arches of 9 feet 2 inches span,
the vault between being segmental and crossed by plain chamfered ribs. The
exterior arch has a double band of bold chevron mouldings within a circle
Page 192
of double-hatched work. The inner arch has a single chevron band, and
above it a band of which the voussoirs have alternate patterns of sunk nail-
heads and the heraldic “lozengy.” This is the work of Eustace de Vesci, who
died 1157, and may be dated 1150, though possibly a part of his
“munitissimum castellum,” which, according to Mr. Tate, was existing in
1135. This Norman gateway is imbedded within a complete gatehouse by
Henry de Percy in 1530, of which the main features are two lofty towers,
which as half octagons flank the entrance from the eastern ward. Original
shields of arms, in the Northumbrian fashion, are carved below the
parapets; and upon the merlons, which are looped, are some original
figures, as at Bothal and Chepstow. The archway is portcullised. The
parapets are not machicolated. The vaulting of the interior of these towers is
very good, and they contain in the basement the original dungeons, which
are described as vaults 10 feet square, aired by loops, while below these are
oubliettes, 8 feet by 9 feet, and reached only by trap-doors in the floor
above. Over the gateway is the private dining-room. The plan of encrusting
an original Norman gateway with later work is very common; the
gatehouses at York afford excellent examples of it.
Entering the court, the open part of which is about 24 yards across, on the
right, in the wall, is the very curious well. Within a pointed panel are three
deep recesses, also pointed, of which the centre contains the mouth of the
well, the shaft of which descends in the thickness of the wall. A wooden
axle crosses above it, and is fitted in the lateral niches with two wheels, set
round with pegs, for winding up the water-buckets by hand. Above, within
the panel, in a small niche is a figure of St. James blessing the source. This
curious and probably singular well was the work of the first Henry de
Percy, in 1312–15; but the figure of the saint is thought to be an insertion of
the last century. There is a similar arrangement over the great gate of
Goderich Castle for working the portcullis.
Beyond the well is the rear wall of the Great Hall, built by the same
Percy, refitted by the first duke, and rebuilt in 1863. The vaults below with
their segmental ribbing are original, as is part of the rear and north wall and
of the bow, whence the cross curtain ran to the Postern Tower. This is still
the state dining-room, 60 feet by 24 feet, and the vaults fulfil their original
destination as cellars. At this point is placed a modern cloister supporting a
above it a band of which the voussoirs have alternate patterns of sunk nail-
heads and the heraldic “lozengy.” This is the work of Eustace de Vesci, who
died 1157, and may be dated 1150, though possibly a part of his
“munitissimum castellum,” which, according to Mr. Tate, was existing in
1135. This Norman gateway is imbedded within a complete gatehouse by
Henry de Percy in 1530, of which the main features are two lofty towers,
which as half octagons flank the entrance from the eastern ward. Original
shields of arms, in the Northumbrian fashion, are carved below the
parapets; and upon the merlons, which are looped, are some original
figures, as at Bothal and Chepstow. The archway is portcullised. The
parapets are not machicolated. The vaulting of the interior of these towers is
very good, and they contain in the basement the original dungeons, which
are described as vaults 10 feet square, aired by loops, while below these are
oubliettes, 8 feet by 9 feet, and reached only by trap-doors in the floor
above. Over the gateway is the private dining-room. The plan of encrusting
an original Norman gateway with later work is very common; the
gatehouses at York afford excellent examples of it.
Entering the court, the open part of which is about 24 yards across, on the
right, in the wall, is the very curious well. Within a pointed panel are three
deep recesses, also pointed, of which the centre contains the mouth of the
well, the shaft of which descends in the thickness of the wall. A wooden
axle crosses above it, and is fitted in the lateral niches with two wheels, set
round with pegs, for winding up the water-buckets by hand. Above, within
the panel, in a small niche is a figure of St. James blessing the source. This
curious and probably singular well was the work of the first Henry de
Percy, in 1312–15; but the figure of the saint is thought to be an insertion of
the last century. There is a similar arrangement over the great gate of
Goderich Castle for working the portcullis.
Beyond the well is the rear wall of the Great Hall, built by the same
Percy, refitted by the first duke, and rebuilt in 1863. The vaults below with
their segmental ribbing are original, as is part of the rear and north wall and
of the bow, whence the cross curtain ran to the Postern Tower. This is still
the state dining-room, 60 feet by 24 feet, and the vaults fulfil their original
destination as cellars. At this point is placed a modern cloister supporting a
Page 193
corridor, by which a bye-access is given to the suite of state-rooms. The
original entrance to the hall was by six open steps from the court.
Next beyond the hall, pointing to the north-east, is a tower, once the
kitchen and scullery, but rebuilt for the second time in 1856, and now the
drawing-room, 45 feet by 22 feet. Beyond this, along the north-east front,
are the saloon, 42 feet by 22 feet, and an ante-room, 22 feet by 22 feet, built
in 1750–86, but newly fitted up. Next to these, and forming the north-west
angle of the keep, is Prudhoe Tower, the principal tower in the fortress,
upon which the flag is hoisted. This contains the library, 55 feet by 24 feet,
and presents two grand bays to the east and west, with a deep re-entering
angle between them. This also is modern.
Next, on the west front, follows the chapel, built in 1856, a rectangular
tower of bold projection, one principal floor, and a high-pitched roof. The
two angles are cut off, so as to form a polygonal apse. This conventional
east end points, however, south-west.
Then, facing to the south-west, follow two half-round towers, rebuilt
1750–86, containing state bedrooms, and connected by a short curtain,
within which is a dressing-room. Finally, between these and the gatehouse,
completing the circuit of the keep, and projecting due south, is the gallery,
having on the first floor a breadth of one line of five rooms and a corridor,
and below, the middle gateway. The rooms are the private apartments of the
duke and duchess, and a passage communicating with the kitchens. The
gateway, which has a portcullis, is of the date of 1309–15, and built into the
south curtain, from the outside of which it projects as a mural tower. The
gallery replaced a curtain about 1760, and was rebuilt 1856. The
battlements of the gatehouse were probably added about 1407–55.
The entrance to the state apartments is in the central court, beneath the
arched vestibule, at the north-west corner. From this a grand flight of steps
ascends to an interior vestibule, and thence by a second flight to the guard
chamber, which opens into the state-rooms. These are all on the first floor,
the basement being occupied by servants’ rooms.
Although the greater part of the keep has been rebuilt in the last and the
present century, it still is composed of the seven towers of the early Percies,
shown in the plan of 1567, and much, especially of the basement, is old;
and what is new is arranged with a close general regard to the older, and,
original entrance to the hall was by six open steps from the court.
Next beyond the hall, pointing to the north-east, is a tower, once the
kitchen and scullery, but rebuilt for the second time in 1856, and now the
drawing-room, 45 feet by 22 feet. Beyond this, along the north-east front,
are the saloon, 42 feet by 22 feet, and an ante-room, 22 feet by 22 feet, built
in 1750–86, but newly fitted up. Next to these, and forming the north-west
angle of the keep, is Prudhoe Tower, the principal tower in the fortress,
upon which the flag is hoisted. This contains the library, 55 feet by 24 feet,
and presents two grand bays to the east and west, with a deep re-entering
angle between them. This also is modern.
Next, on the west front, follows the chapel, built in 1856, a rectangular
tower of bold projection, one principal floor, and a high-pitched roof. The
two angles are cut off, so as to form a polygonal apse. This conventional
east end points, however, south-west.
Then, facing to the south-west, follow two half-round towers, rebuilt
1750–86, containing state bedrooms, and connected by a short curtain,
within which is a dressing-room. Finally, between these and the gatehouse,
completing the circuit of the keep, and projecting due south, is the gallery,
having on the first floor a breadth of one line of five rooms and a corridor,
and below, the middle gateway. The rooms are the private apartments of the
duke and duchess, and a passage communicating with the kitchens. The
gateway, which has a portcullis, is of the date of 1309–15, and built into the
south curtain, from the outside of which it projects as a mural tower. The
gallery replaced a curtain about 1760, and was rebuilt 1856. The
battlements of the gatehouse were probably added about 1407–55.
The entrance to the state apartments is in the central court, beneath the
arched vestibule, at the north-west corner. From this a grand flight of steps
ascends to an interior vestibule, and thence by a second flight to the guard
chamber, which opens into the state-rooms. These are all on the first floor,
the basement being occupied by servants’ rooms.
Although the greater part of the keep has been rebuilt in the last and the
present century, it still is composed of the seven towers of the early Percies,
shown in the plan of 1567, and much, especially of the basement, is old;
and what is new is arranged with a close general regard to the older, and,
Page 194
indeed, in many parts, Norman plan. The exterior ditch of the keep is partly
filled up, and the drawbridge of the inner gate has been removed. A
portcullis remains.
Of the general and exterior enceinte, the most complete and striking
portion is the western gateway, a very fine and unaltered example of a gate
and barbican of the Edwardian period, 1312–15, in its simplest form. The
barbican, about 55 feet long by 32 feet wide, is entered by a large round-
headed arch, between a pair of square flanking buttresses, corbelled out
above into two turrets, also square. Over the entrance in a sunk panel is a
large Percy lion, with their motto, “Espérance.” The arch leads into a
passage, 55 feet long by 10 feet wide, for the first 20 feet vaulted, but
afterwards open to the sky. This lies between very lofty side walls,
embattled each way. On the left, a small side-door led to the counterscarp of
the ditch; also on the left another door opens into a mural stair ascending to
the battlements. In front is the portal of the gatehouse. This barbican
crossed the ditch now filled up. Besides an outer drawbridge, over a loop of
the main ditch, it had an inner bridge between its lateral walls, dropping
from the gatehouse. This is mentioned in the survey of 1538, and was
removed in 1567. The parapets are without machicolations, and the
embrasures have no mouldings. The merlons are not looped, and the figures
placed upon them date only from 1750–86. Probably in advance of the ditch
of this barbican was a barrier or palisade of timber, and the level space in
front, commanded by the walls of both town and castle, is what was usually
employed for jousting matches or military duels. The adjacent river was a
sufficient security against surprise.
The gatehouse, of which the barbican is the covering, is a rectangle 40
feet deep by 45 feet broad, of slight internal and bold external projection,
and presenting to the field two half octagonal towers. The passage is
vaulted and has the usual defences of a portcullis and gates. The portals are
round-headed. There are lateral lodges, entered one from the passage and
one from the court.
Entering the court, the curtain on the left, of considerable height, has
Norman foundations, 1150, and an Edwardian superstructure, 1350.
Outside, a string-course marks the base of the parapet, and the embrasures
have a decorated moulding carried all round. The wall extends to the
Abbot’s Tower, but upon it is a small rectangular mural tower, called the
filled up, and the drawbridge of the inner gate has been removed. A
portcullis remains.
Of the general and exterior enceinte, the most complete and striking
portion is the western gateway, a very fine and unaltered example of a gate
and barbican of the Edwardian period, 1312–15, in its simplest form. The
barbican, about 55 feet long by 32 feet wide, is entered by a large round-
headed arch, between a pair of square flanking buttresses, corbelled out
above into two turrets, also square. Over the entrance in a sunk panel is a
large Percy lion, with their motto, “Espérance.” The arch leads into a
passage, 55 feet long by 10 feet wide, for the first 20 feet vaulted, but
afterwards open to the sky. This lies between very lofty side walls,
embattled each way. On the left, a small side-door led to the counterscarp of
the ditch; also on the left another door opens into a mural stair ascending to
the battlements. In front is the portal of the gatehouse. This barbican
crossed the ditch now filled up. Besides an outer drawbridge, over a loop of
the main ditch, it had an inner bridge between its lateral walls, dropping
from the gatehouse. This is mentioned in the survey of 1538, and was
removed in 1567. The parapets are without machicolations, and the
embrasures have no mouldings. The merlons are not looped, and the figures
placed upon them date only from 1750–86. Probably in advance of the ditch
of this barbican was a barrier or palisade of timber, and the level space in
front, commanded by the walls of both town and castle, is what was usually
employed for jousting matches or military duels. The adjacent river was a
sufficient security against surprise.
The gatehouse, of which the barbican is the covering, is a rectangle 40
feet deep by 45 feet broad, of slight internal and bold external projection,
and presenting to the field two half octagonal towers. The passage is
vaulted and has the usual defences of a portcullis and gates. The portals are
round-headed. There are lateral lodges, entered one from the passage and
one from the court.
Entering the court, the curtain on the left, of considerable height, has
Norman foundations, 1150, and an Edwardian superstructure, 1350.
Outside, a string-course marks the base of the parapet, and the embrasures
have a decorated moulding carried all round. The wall extends to the
Abbot’s Tower, but upon it is a small rectangular mural tower, called the
Page 195
Avener’s Tower, 1309–15. The Abbot’s Tower, of the same date, caps the
north-west angle. It is rectangular and of three stages, the lowest being
vaulted and ribbed with segmental arches, as in the Constable’s Tower, and
below the Great Hall. The third stage rises clear of the wall, and is reached
by a well-stair, which occupies the north-east angle.
From this a short curtain of mixed date, 1150 and 1350, with a low
salient, extends to the Falconer’s Tower, also rectangular, rebuilt, though
not exactly on the old site, in 1856, and from which a modern curtain wall
runs up to the Prudhoe Tower of the keep. Upon this wall stood the
Armourer’s Tower, also rectangular, destroyed in 1856, to improve the view
from the library. The removal of this and the Falconer’s Tower are said to
have been the only subtractions made from the original military works of
the castle.
Returning to the west gate, the curtain on its right extends past the west
Garret Tower to the Clock Tower, all rebuilt 1750–86. The latter is circular,
with a flat gorge and keel-shaped salient, and caps the south-west angle.
Outside the last-named curtain, and reached through it by a gateway, are the
stable courts, riding-school, and guest-hall, 135 feet by 35 feet, by 25 feet to
the spring of the open timber roof, a very noble structure. These buildings
are of modern date, 1856.
From the Clock Tower the south curtain supports on its outside the estate
offices. Part of this curtain is 1750–86, part 1309–15. This latter part
includes the Auditor’s Tower, 1770, of which the square rear projects into
the court and the half-round front outside. Beyond this is a bit of Norman
curtain, 1150, against which on the outside is built the modern kitchen, and
above which a modern corridor communicates between the duke’s room
and the record-room in the Auditor’s Tower. The treatment of this part of
the structure by Mr. Salvin deserves especial notice from the happy
combination of the features of the Edwardian age with the appliances of the
present day. The kitchen, with much to remind the visitor of Durham and
Avignon, is as a whole superior to either, and is besides a model of culinary
arrangement. These offices, originally within the keep at the east end of the
hall, were placed here by the first duke, but were recast and rebuilt by Duke
Algernon.
north-west angle. It is rectangular and of three stages, the lowest being
vaulted and ribbed with segmental arches, as in the Constable’s Tower, and
below the Great Hall. The third stage rises clear of the wall, and is reached
by a well-stair, which occupies the north-east angle.
From this a short curtain of mixed date, 1150 and 1350, with a low
salient, extends to the Falconer’s Tower, also rectangular, rebuilt, though
not exactly on the old site, in 1856, and from which a modern curtain wall
runs up to the Prudhoe Tower of the keep. Upon this wall stood the
Armourer’s Tower, also rectangular, destroyed in 1856, to improve the view
from the library. The removal of this and the Falconer’s Tower are said to
have been the only subtractions made from the original military works of
the castle.
Returning to the west gate, the curtain on its right extends past the west
Garret Tower to the Clock Tower, all rebuilt 1750–86. The latter is circular,
with a flat gorge and keel-shaped salient, and caps the south-west angle.
Outside the last-named curtain, and reached through it by a gateway, are the
stable courts, riding-school, and guest-hall, 135 feet by 35 feet, by 25 feet to
the spring of the open timber roof, a very noble structure. These buildings
are of modern date, 1856.
From the Clock Tower the south curtain supports on its outside the estate
offices. Part of this curtain is 1750–86, part 1309–15. This latter part
includes the Auditor’s Tower, 1770, of which the square rear projects into
the court and the half-round front outside. Beyond this is a bit of Norman
curtain, 1150, against which on the outside is built the modern kitchen, and
above which a modern corridor communicates between the duke’s room
and the record-room in the Auditor’s Tower. The treatment of this part of
the structure by Mr. Salvin deserves especial notice from the happy
combination of the features of the Edwardian age with the appliances of the
present day. The kitchen, with much to remind the visitor of Durham and
Avignon, is as a whole superior to either, and is besides a model of culinary
arrangement. These offices, originally within the keep at the east end of the
hall, were placed here by the first duke, but were recast and rebuilt by Duke
Algernon.
Page 196
Formerly there stood in the west ward the exchequer and the stables. The
exchequer was a large rectangular building, applied to the north limb of the
west gatehouse, and, like it, embattled. The two ranges of stabling stood a
little within and parallel to the curtains next the Clock Tower. These
buildings, shown in the survey of 1650, were removed probably about
1755.
Traversing the middle gate, in front is the eastern or inner ward, and on
the left the inner or gatehouse of the keep. On the right, outside the curtain,
is the steward’s room, and beyond it the Warder’s Tower, mentioned in
1567, but altogether remodelled and rebuilt in 1860 upon a work of 1770. It
now contains the Lion gateway, leading to the gardens. Below the
gatehouse is an ale-cellar, and above one side of it, attached to the offices,
the confectionary.
Beyond, the line of the curtain is irregular. About the salient it is Norman,
1150, and a very good example of the rough walling of the age. Upon it is
the East Garret, 1309–15, and it ends in the Ravine Tower, the most eastern
work of the castle, and capping an acute angle of the enceinte. This is a
good-sized round tower, with a well-stair at its junction with the curtain. It
has been much repaired since its foundation in 1309–15. It is defended by
the ravine, whence it derives its name.
From hence the curtain trends to the north-west, being in great part
Norman, but repaired at what is called the “Bloody Gap.” Beyond this is a
garret bartizan, called Hotspur’s Chair. It was the gorge of a half-round
tower, now removed, but shown in the plan of 1650. Beyond this the curtain
is again mixed Norman and Decorated of 1312–15, to the Constable’s
Tower. This is a strong half-round tower, capping a flattish salient to the
north-east; it has an exterior entrance by stairs to each of its three floors.
From this a short curtain, 1150, leads to the Postern Tower, 1312–15,
rectangular, pierced below by the vaulted and portcullised passage of the
postern, and vaulted also on the first floor. This tower is a fine example of a
Northumbrian military building of the Decorated period. The arches are
round-headed or segmental, and it has in its rear wall a remarkable two-
light window with a transom, and in the head a foliated circle. There is also
a very perfect garderobe with external shoot. From this tower a curtain, now
removed, ran upwards to the bow of the hall tower of the keep, and thus
completed the defences of this ward. The original postern passage is filled
exchequer was a large rectangular building, applied to the north limb of the
west gatehouse, and, like it, embattled. The two ranges of stabling stood a
little within and parallel to the curtains next the Clock Tower. These
buildings, shown in the survey of 1650, were removed probably about
1755.
Traversing the middle gate, in front is the eastern or inner ward, and on
the left the inner or gatehouse of the keep. On the right, outside the curtain,
is the steward’s room, and beyond it the Warder’s Tower, mentioned in
1567, but altogether remodelled and rebuilt in 1860 upon a work of 1770. It
now contains the Lion gateway, leading to the gardens. Below the
gatehouse is an ale-cellar, and above one side of it, attached to the offices,
the confectionary.
Beyond, the line of the curtain is irregular. About the salient it is Norman,
1150, and a very good example of the rough walling of the age. Upon it is
the East Garret, 1309–15, and it ends in the Ravine Tower, the most eastern
work of the castle, and capping an acute angle of the enceinte. This is a
good-sized round tower, with a well-stair at its junction with the curtain. It
has been much repaired since its foundation in 1309–15. It is defended by
the ravine, whence it derives its name.
From hence the curtain trends to the north-west, being in great part
Norman, but repaired at what is called the “Bloody Gap.” Beyond this is a
garret bartizan, called Hotspur’s Chair. It was the gorge of a half-round
tower, now removed, but shown in the plan of 1650. Beyond this the curtain
is again mixed Norman and Decorated of 1312–15, to the Constable’s
Tower. This is a strong half-round tower, capping a flattish salient to the
north-east; it has an exterior entrance by stairs to each of its three floors.
From this a short curtain, 1150, leads to the Postern Tower, 1312–15,
rectangular, pierced below by the vaulted and portcullised passage of the
postern, and vaulted also on the first floor. This tower is a fine example of a
Northumbrian military building of the Decorated period. The arches are
round-headed or segmental, and it has in its rear wall a remarkable two-
light window with a transom, and in the head a foliated circle. There is also
a very perfect garderobe with external shoot. From this tower a curtain, now
removed, ran upwards to the bow of the hall tower of the keep, and thus
completed the defences of this ward. The original postern passage is filled
Page 197
up, or nearly so, with earth, but by the side of the tower a way leads to a
terrace walk between the keep and the river, and extending to Falconer’s
Tower.
The eastern ward contained the castle chapel and the conduit, supplied
with water by lead pipes from an exterior spring called Howling Well. The
chapel, a considerable building, stood detached near the Bloody Gap, and
was removed in 1755. The ecclesiastical establishment seems to have been
on a respectable scale, and included a chantry for the performance of the
obits of the family. In this quarter also stood the brew, bake, and slaughter-
houses for the use of the garrison.
Alnwick Castle is probably the finest extant example of a Norman castle
of this type, having an open keep and a complete enceinte; for although
most of the present buildings are either of the fourteenth or the nineteenth
century, the plan is certainly Norman, and certain detached portions of the
construction. It seems also that the keep was never a mere shell, like Cardiff
or Arundel, but was always set about with towers and provided with a
handsome gatehouse. A notable feature is the use of the round-headed and
the segmental arch in the Decorated period. This is not uncommon in the
North of England. The very free use of stone warriors upon the parapets,
carried to an absurd extent in the repairs of the last century, is also
remarkable. They are seen at Bothal, and in Edwardian works both at
Caernarvon and Chepstow, but by no means so freely distributed as here.
They were obviously intended for ornament only, but, of all figures, that of
the eagle at Caernarvon is the only one at all appropriate. No archer would
or could have stood on the crest of the parapet. Most of the later figures
were very properly removed by Mr. Salvin.
There is found upon the battlements of both walls and towers, in various
parts of the castle, a convenient arrangement for hanging a movable
wooden shutter in the embrasures, so as to defend the warders from a
Scottish shaft, and from the scarcely less keen edge of the bleak winds of
the Border. The shutter was suspended horizontally, like a port-lid, but from
trunnions, of which one rested in a round hole in one merlon, and the other
in a similar hole terminating in a groove in the other, so that the shutter
hung freely, and could be lifted in and out if necessary. The arrangement is
precisely that applied to the roller of a round towel. Traces of this
arrangement remain in various parts of the castle. A perfect example is seen
terrace walk between the keep and the river, and extending to Falconer’s
Tower.
The eastern ward contained the castle chapel and the conduit, supplied
with water by lead pipes from an exterior spring called Howling Well. The
chapel, a considerable building, stood detached near the Bloody Gap, and
was removed in 1755. The ecclesiastical establishment seems to have been
on a respectable scale, and included a chantry for the performance of the
obits of the family. In this quarter also stood the brew, bake, and slaughter-
houses for the use of the garrison.
Alnwick Castle is probably the finest extant example of a Norman castle
of this type, having an open keep and a complete enceinte; for although
most of the present buildings are either of the fourteenth or the nineteenth
century, the plan is certainly Norman, and certain detached portions of the
construction. It seems also that the keep was never a mere shell, like Cardiff
or Arundel, but was always set about with towers and provided with a
handsome gatehouse. A notable feature is the use of the round-headed and
the segmental arch in the Decorated period. This is not uncommon in the
North of England. The very free use of stone warriors upon the parapets,
carried to an absurd extent in the repairs of the last century, is also
remarkable. They are seen at Bothal, and in Edwardian works both at
Caernarvon and Chepstow, but by no means so freely distributed as here.
They were obviously intended for ornament only, but, of all figures, that of
the eagle at Caernarvon is the only one at all appropriate. No archer would
or could have stood on the crest of the parapet. Most of the later figures
were very properly removed by Mr. Salvin.
There is found upon the battlements of both walls and towers, in various
parts of the castle, a convenient arrangement for hanging a movable
wooden shutter in the embrasures, so as to defend the warders from a
Scottish shaft, and from the scarcely less keen edge of the bleak winds of
the Border. The shutter was suspended horizontally, like a port-lid, but from
trunnions, of which one rested in a round hole in one merlon, and the other
in a similar hole terminating in a groove in the other, so that the shutter
hung freely, and could be lifted in and out if necessary. The arrangement is
precisely that applied to the roller of a round towel. Traces of this
arrangement remain in various parts of the castle. A perfect example is seen
Page 198
on the barbican. It may also be seen on the east wall of Goderich, at
Chepstow, and elsewhere.
The officers forming the staff of this castle as a civil residence, in 1567,
were the constable or governor; the porter of the outer gate; the greive, or
executive officer or bailiff; the receiver or auditor; the feodary, who looked
up the services and tenures; the steward, learned in the law, who
administered justice; the clerk of the courts, who engrossed the rolls and
kept the records; and the foreign or outer bailiff, who collected the castle-
guard and cornage money, and summoned the tenants and suitors. The
whole of the annual payment to these officers was £58. 18s.
Looking to the character of the country, so charged with traces of early
military earthworks, and to the strong and well-defined natural position of
Alnwick, it seems probable that it was occupied as a camp by some of the
tribes who, from a very remote period, made this Border their battlefield,
and whose defences are still visible in eleven distinct earthworks within a
very short distance of the town. If so, they would necessarily have placed
their defences to the north and east upon the lines of the present castle. The
interior eminence would certainly have been their citadel, and the trench,
completing their security, would most conveniently have been carried along
the general direction of the western front, so as to connect the head of the
Bow Burn with the Alne, and thus complete the seclusion of the peninsula.
Such a site, so defended, was not uncommonly adopted or constructed by
the Northmen and Saxons when they became settled, and they would have
placed the timber and palisaded mansion of their thane upon the central
entrenched knoll.
Probably the Norman Gilbert Tison, of cloudy memory, who is the
reputed pioneer of the Conquest in these wild regions, found and contented
himself with some early kind of timber fortress, for the earliest traces of
masonry that remain in situ or have been extracted from the walls, though
Norman, are of late character, and attributable to Eustace Fitzjohn, who
married Beatrix, daughter and heir of Ivo de Vesci, who is thought to have
married Tison’s daughter. Eustace, called De Vesci, flourished under Henry
I. and Stephen, and died in 1157. He was a likely man to have constructed a
great castle, being a baron of considerable power, sheriff of
Northumberland, and founder of the abbeys of Alnwick and, in Yorkshire,
of Malton. Also he must have felt the want of a strong place, for in his days,
Chepstow, and elsewhere.
The officers forming the staff of this castle as a civil residence, in 1567,
were the constable or governor; the porter of the outer gate; the greive, or
executive officer or bailiff; the receiver or auditor; the feodary, who looked
up the services and tenures; the steward, learned in the law, who
administered justice; the clerk of the courts, who engrossed the rolls and
kept the records; and the foreign or outer bailiff, who collected the castle-
guard and cornage money, and summoned the tenants and suitors. The
whole of the annual payment to these officers was £58. 18s.
Looking to the character of the country, so charged with traces of early
military earthworks, and to the strong and well-defined natural position of
Alnwick, it seems probable that it was occupied as a camp by some of the
tribes who, from a very remote period, made this Border their battlefield,
and whose defences are still visible in eleven distinct earthworks within a
very short distance of the town. If so, they would necessarily have placed
their defences to the north and east upon the lines of the present castle. The
interior eminence would certainly have been their citadel, and the trench,
completing their security, would most conveniently have been carried along
the general direction of the western front, so as to connect the head of the
Bow Burn with the Alne, and thus complete the seclusion of the peninsula.
Such a site, so defended, was not uncommonly adopted or constructed by
the Northmen and Saxons when they became settled, and they would have
placed the timber and palisaded mansion of their thane upon the central
entrenched knoll.
Probably the Norman Gilbert Tison, of cloudy memory, who is the
reputed pioneer of the Conquest in these wild regions, found and contented
himself with some early kind of timber fortress, for the earliest traces of
masonry that remain in situ or have been extracted from the walls, though
Norman, are of late character, and attributable to Eustace Fitzjohn, who
married Beatrix, daughter and heir of Ivo de Vesci, who is thought to have
married Tison’s daughter. Eustace, called De Vesci, flourished under Henry
I. and Stephen, and died in 1157. He was a likely man to have constructed a
great castle, being a baron of considerable power, sheriff of
Northumberland, and founder of the abbeys of Alnwick and, in Yorkshire,
of Malton. Also he must have felt the want of a strong place, for in his days,
Page 199
in 1135, Alnwick Castle was taken by David I., of Scotland, in the interest
of the Empress Maud.
Eustace no doubt built in the first half of the twelfth century a polygonal
clustered keep upon the knoll, gave it the gateway we still see, and placed
his residence within. Traces of his walls are said by Mr. Tate to have been
discovered when the last rebuilding was being executed. No doubt also he
cleared out the moat round the keep. To him also must be attributed the
general wall of the enceinte, and possibly the ditch outside it; and this
would have been strengthened by mural towers, many of which must have
stood where their successors are now placed. De Vesci’s work is indicated
by the stones being mostly square blocks of moderate size, laid in courses,
but in beds more or less wavy, as though the mason used neither line nor
level. The joints are open. Beyond question De Vesci constructed a castle in
keeping with his wealth, and worthy of the chief baron of the Border.
In July, 1174, William the Lion, on his way back from an invasion of
Cumberland, found himself, to his surprise, before Alnwick. William, son of
Eustace de Vesci, attacked him. He was unhorsed, captured, and sent into
England, and beyond sea, to prison. Eustace, son of William, succeeded in
1190, and was visited by King John, 12th February, 1201, and 24th April,
1209, when the king received at the castle the homage of Alexander, king of
Scotland. Four years later, May 14th, John ordered Philip de Ulecote to
demolish the castle of Alnwick—a mandate which could scarcely have been
obeyed, seeing the king himself was there 28th January, 1213, and 11th
January, 1216, no doubt unwelcome visits, for Eustace was a Magna Charta
baron. He met his death from an arrow before Barnard Castle in the last
year of King John. Henry III. visited Alnwick 23rd September, 1256, and
Edward I. was the guest of John de Vesci there 30th April and 1st May, and
16th and 17th August, 1291, and 16th August and 13th and 18th December,
1292; and again 22nd, 23rd, 24th, 25th, 26th, and 27th September, 1296;
and 26th and 29th June, 1298.
The Barons de Vesci became extinct in 1297, by the death of William,
seventh Baron, when the castle and barony were acquired, it is said, to the
fraudulent exclusion of the natural son, by Antony Bec, the warlike Bishop
of Durham, by whom, in 1309, 3 Edward II., they were sold to Henry de
Percy, the representative of a warlike family, whose advent forms an
important era in the history of the Border. Percy, as the leader of the
of the Empress Maud.
Eustace no doubt built in the first half of the twelfth century a polygonal
clustered keep upon the knoll, gave it the gateway we still see, and placed
his residence within. Traces of his walls are said by Mr. Tate to have been
discovered when the last rebuilding was being executed. No doubt also he
cleared out the moat round the keep. To him also must be attributed the
general wall of the enceinte, and possibly the ditch outside it; and this
would have been strengthened by mural towers, many of which must have
stood where their successors are now placed. De Vesci’s work is indicated
by the stones being mostly square blocks of moderate size, laid in courses,
but in beds more or less wavy, as though the mason used neither line nor
level. The joints are open. Beyond question De Vesci constructed a castle in
keeping with his wealth, and worthy of the chief baron of the Border.
In July, 1174, William the Lion, on his way back from an invasion of
Cumberland, found himself, to his surprise, before Alnwick. William, son of
Eustace de Vesci, attacked him. He was unhorsed, captured, and sent into
England, and beyond sea, to prison. Eustace, son of William, succeeded in
1190, and was visited by King John, 12th February, 1201, and 24th April,
1209, when the king received at the castle the homage of Alexander, king of
Scotland. Four years later, May 14th, John ordered Philip de Ulecote to
demolish the castle of Alnwick—a mandate which could scarcely have been
obeyed, seeing the king himself was there 28th January, 1213, and 11th
January, 1216, no doubt unwelcome visits, for Eustace was a Magna Charta
baron. He met his death from an arrow before Barnard Castle in the last
year of King John. Henry III. visited Alnwick 23rd September, 1256, and
Edward I. was the guest of John de Vesci there 30th April and 1st May, and
16th and 17th August, 1291, and 16th August and 13th and 18th December,
1292; and again 22nd, 23rd, 24th, 25th, 26th, and 27th September, 1296;
and 26th and 29th June, 1298.
The Barons de Vesci became extinct in 1297, by the death of William,
seventh Baron, when the castle and barony were acquired, it is said, to the
fraudulent exclusion of the natural son, by Antony Bec, the warlike Bishop
of Durham, by whom, in 1309, 3 Edward II., they were sold to Henry de
Percy, the representative of a warlike family, whose advent forms an
important era in the history of the Border. Percy, as the leader of the
Page 200
Northern barons, made Alnwick his residence, and although in possession
only for five years, seems to have rebuilt much of the fabric, the rest being
completed by his son of the same name.
The Percy Castle, laid out nearly upon the Norman lines, presented very
nearly the appearance of the present structure. The authorship of the
Edwardian part of the inner gatehouse is established by the escutcheon of
Clifford on its walls, the second Henry de Percy having married a lady of
that house. To the first half of this fourteenth century may be attributed, as
has already been pointed out in detail, nearly all the leading features of the
castle, as it stood at the incoming of the first Duke of the present family.
The Percies, though they maintained the reputation of Alnwick as the great
Border fortress during nearly four centuries, do not appear to have
materially altered the fabric of the two earliest lords. They received here
Edward II. in 1311 and 1322, and Edward III. in 1335; but the later earls
were much at Petworth and in Yorkshire; and upon the death of the eighth
earl, in 1537, and the attainder of his brother, the family ceased to reside at
Alnwick, and the castle was neglected. The Percy line ended in Elizabeth,
daughter of Jocelyn, the eleventh earl, who, 30th May, 1682, married
Charles, Duke of Somerset. Of their children, two had issue, Algernon and
Catherine, who married Sir Wm. Wyndham, and eventually conveyed to
that family the Percy estates at Petworth, Egremont, and Leconfield.
Algernon Seymour, Duke of Somerset, and by creation Earl of
Northumberland, left one child, Elizabeth Seymour, who inherited Alnwick,
and married Sir Hugh Smithson, created Duke of Northumberland, and
ancestor of the present family.
A survey of Alnwick in 1567 shows the decay then to have been very
considerable, and as the Seymour lords preferred their paternal residence,
Alnwick became almost a ruin. From this it was redeemed by the first duke,
who, under the advice of Adam, restored, and in part rebuilt, the keep; and
although he fitted up the interior with plaster and frippery, made the exterior
sound and good, and, on the whole, in keeping with the character of the
place, and with what remained of the ancient buildings.
Matters so remained until the accession of Duke Algernon, better known
as Lord Prudhoe, a naval officer and a good man of business, who had
travelled much and possessed a cultivated taste, and was of a truly noble
only for five years, seems to have rebuilt much of the fabric, the rest being
completed by his son of the same name.
The Percy Castle, laid out nearly upon the Norman lines, presented very
nearly the appearance of the present structure. The authorship of the
Edwardian part of the inner gatehouse is established by the escutcheon of
Clifford on its walls, the second Henry de Percy having married a lady of
that house. To the first half of this fourteenth century may be attributed, as
has already been pointed out in detail, nearly all the leading features of the
castle, as it stood at the incoming of the first Duke of the present family.
The Percies, though they maintained the reputation of Alnwick as the great
Border fortress during nearly four centuries, do not appear to have
materially altered the fabric of the two earliest lords. They received here
Edward II. in 1311 and 1322, and Edward III. in 1335; but the later earls
were much at Petworth and in Yorkshire; and upon the death of the eighth
earl, in 1537, and the attainder of his brother, the family ceased to reside at
Alnwick, and the castle was neglected. The Percy line ended in Elizabeth,
daughter of Jocelyn, the eleventh earl, who, 30th May, 1682, married
Charles, Duke of Somerset. Of their children, two had issue, Algernon and
Catherine, who married Sir Wm. Wyndham, and eventually conveyed to
that family the Percy estates at Petworth, Egremont, and Leconfield.
Algernon Seymour, Duke of Somerset, and by creation Earl of
Northumberland, left one child, Elizabeth Seymour, who inherited Alnwick,
and married Sir Hugh Smithson, created Duke of Northumberland, and
ancestor of the present family.
A survey of Alnwick in 1567 shows the decay then to have been very
considerable, and as the Seymour lords preferred their paternal residence,
Alnwick became almost a ruin. From this it was redeemed by the first duke,
who, under the advice of Adam, restored, and in part rebuilt, the keep; and
although he fitted up the interior with plaster and frippery, made the exterior
sound and good, and, on the whole, in keeping with the character of the
place, and with what remained of the ancient buildings.
Matters so remained until the accession of Duke Algernon, better known
as Lord Prudhoe, a naval officer and a good man of business, who had
travelled much and possessed a cultivated taste, and was of a truly noble
Page 201
and magnificent disposition. While foremost in works of public usefulness
connected with his estates, county, and profession, and careful to drain his
lands, rebuild the cottages of his labourers, restore the local churches, and
provide lifeboats for his dangerous coast, he, under the sound advice of Mr.
Salvin, almost rebuilt the castle, preserving with scrupulous care all that
admitted of preservation, and adapting his new work to the period of the
first and second Percy, the founders of the later castle. Having thus restored
the great fortress of the Border with strict regard to the rules of military
architecture, he proceeded, under the advice of Canina, to fit up the interior
in the style of an Italian palace. The contrast afforded is certainly extreme,
and the attempt on so costly a scale was hardy; but the adaptation of the
fittings to the irregular plan of the rooms is so well conceived, the materials
employed are so rich, and the execution of the details is so skilful, that it is
difficult to regard even so great an incongruity as other than a distinguished
success.
Much attention has of late years been paid, and by very competent
persons, to the history of this castle. Grose gives some particulars, now very
valuable; but this and the castles of Warkworth and Prudhoe have been
illustrated by the late Mr. Hartshorne, and are treated of also by him with
great success in the Northumberland volume of the Archæological Institute.
More recently, Mr. Tate has handled the subject of Alnwick Castle with both
skill and accuracy in his admirable history of the barony of Alnwick. And
finally, in the “Life of William Rufus,” Mr. Freeman has touched lightly but
very effectively upon the connexion of Alnwick and its lords with
Northumbrian history. In the above sketch free use has, to some extent,
been made of the above materials; but the object of the writer has been to
treat solely of the fabric of the castle, and that from a military point of view.
REFERENCES.
connected with his estates, county, and profession, and careful to drain his
lands, rebuild the cottages of his labourers, restore the local churches, and
provide lifeboats for his dangerous coast, he, under the sound advice of Mr.
Salvin, almost rebuilt the castle, preserving with scrupulous care all that
admitted of preservation, and adapting his new work to the period of the
first and second Percy, the founders of the later castle. Having thus restored
the great fortress of the Border with strict regard to the rules of military
architecture, he proceeded, under the advice of Canina, to fit up the interior
in the style of an Italian palace. The contrast afforded is certainly extreme,
and the attempt on so costly a scale was hardy; but the adaptation of the
fittings to the irregular plan of the rooms is so well conceived, the materials
employed are so rich, and the execution of the details is so skilful, that it is
difficult to regard even so great an incongruity as other than a distinguished
success.
Much attention has of late years been paid, and by very competent
persons, to the history of this castle. Grose gives some particulars, now very
valuable; but this and the castles of Warkworth and Prudhoe have been
illustrated by the late Mr. Hartshorne, and are treated of also by him with
great success in the Northumberland volume of the Archæological Institute.
More recently, Mr. Tate has handled the subject of Alnwick Castle with both
skill and accuracy in his admirable history of the barony of Alnwick. And
finally, in the “Life of William Rufus,” Mr. Freeman has touched lightly but
very effectively upon the connexion of Alnwick and its lords with
Northumbrian history. In the above sketch free use has, to some extent,
been made of the above materials; but the object of the writer has been to
treat solely of the fabric of the castle, and that from a military point of view.
REFERENCES.
Page 202
1. Donjon.
2. Inner Ward.
3. Outer Ward.
4. Terrace.
5. Stable Courts.
6. Kitchen.
7. Estate Offices.
8. Ravine.
9. Ditch.
10. Tower.
11. Inner Gate.
12. Middle Gate.
13. Barbican.
14. Hall.
15. Withdrawing-room.
16. Music-room.
17. Ante-room.
18. Library. Prudhoe Tower.
19. Chapel.
20. State Bedroom.
21. Entrance.
22. Spur Gallery.
23. West Garret.
24. Abbot’s Tower.
25. Falconer’s Tower.
26. Postern Tower.
27. Constable’s Tower.
28. Ravine Tower.
29. Hotspur’s Chair.
30. East Garret.
31. Warder’s Tower.
32. Auditor’s Tower.
33. Clock Tower.
34. Avener’s Tower.
35. Garden.
2. Inner Ward.
3. Outer Ward.
4. Terrace.
5. Stable Courts.
6. Kitchen.
7. Estate Offices.
8. Ravine.
9. Ditch.
10. Tower.
11. Inner Gate.
12. Middle Gate.
13. Barbican.
14. Hall.
15. Withdrawing-room.
16. Music-room.
17. Ante-room.
18. Library. Prudhoe Tower.
19. Chapel.
20. State Bedroom.
21. Entrance.
22. Spur Gallery.
23. West Garret.
24. Abbot’s Tower.
25. Falconer’s Tower.
26. Postern Tower.
27. Constable’s Tower.
28. Ravine Tower.
29. Hotspur’s Chair.
30. East Garret.
31. Warder’s Tower.
32. Auditor’s Tower.
33. Clock Tower.
34. Avener’s Tower.
35. Garden.
Page 203
PLAN OF ALNWICK CASTLE, NORTHUMBERLAND.
Page 204
THE CASTLE OF ARQUES, NEAR DIEPPE.
ARQUES is one of the earliest examples of a Norman castle, for which
reason, though not an English fortress, it has been thought convenient to
include an account of it in these pages. This grand castle crowns and
occupies the head of a steep and bold cape or promontory, in this case a
spur from the great chalk table-land of the “Pays de Caux.” On the west it is
flanked by a short but deep combe or dry valley, and on the east by the
deeper and far wider valley of the Bethune and Varenne—streams derived
from different sources, but which here meander across a broad and level
bottom, above half a mile wide, until, a little below the castle, uniting, they
receive the tributary Aulne, and, thus combined, under the name of “la
Rivière d’Arques,” fall into the sea at the port of Dieppe.
The castle thus stands above the left bank of the principal valley. It is
about 4 miles from Dieppe; and immediately below, and to its north-east, is
the village whence it takes its name, remarkable for a church of unusual
size, and a most elegant example of the style of the latter part of the
sixteenth century. Beyond, upon the right bank, are the remains of the
ancient Forest of Arques, a part of the spacious domain of the ancient lords
of the fee, and upon the skirts of which, within shot of the castle, was
fought, in 1589, a very celebrated battle.
The castle in its present form is composed of a rectangular keep, standing
in the south-west corner of an inner ward, in plan something less than a
half-circle, having its chord to the west, and contained within an enceinte
wall, strengthened by towers and buttresses along its sides and at its
southern end, and capping its angles.
Applied to the north end of this is an outer ward, of later date, four-sided,
and having drum towers at its four angles.
The main entrance, approached by a steep and winding road from the
town, is in the north end, or at the point of the cape, between the two
towers. Entering, is a second gatehouse, opening from the outer into the
inner ward, also between two towers. A third gatehouse, at the other end of
ARQUES is one of the earliest examples of a Norman castle, for which
reason, though not an English fortress, it has been thought convenient to
include an account of it in these pages. This grand castle crowns and
occupies the head of a steep and bold cape or promontory, in this case a
spur from the great chalk table-land of the “Pays de Caux.” On the west it is
flanked by a short but deep combe or dry valley, and on the east by the
deeper and far wider valley of the Bethune and Varenne—streams derived
from different sources, but which here meander across a broad and level
bottom, above half a mile wide, until, a little below the castle, uniting, they
receive the tributary Aulne, and, thus combined, under the name of “la
Rivière d’Arques,” fall into the sea at the port of Dieppe.
The castle thus stands above the left bank of the principal valley. It is
about 4 miles from Dieppe; and immediately below, and to its north-east, is
the village whence it takes its name, remarkable for a church of unusual
size, and a most elegant example of the style of the latter part of the
sixteenth century. Beyond, upon the right bank, are the remains of the
ancient Forest of Arques, a part of the spacious domain of the ancient lords
of the fee, and upon the skirts of which, within shot of the castle, was
fought, in 1589, a very celebrated battle.
The castle in its present form is composed of a rectangular keep, standing
in the south-west corner of an inner ward, in plan something less than a
half-circle, having its chord to the west, and contained within an enceinte
wall, strengthened by towers and buttresses along its sides and at its
southern end, and capping its angles.
Applied to the north end of this is an outer ward, of later date, four-sided,
and having drum towers at its four angles.
The main entrance, approached by a steep and winding road from the
town, is in the north end, or at the point of the cape, between the two
towers. Entering, is a second gatehouse, opening from the outer into the
inner ward, also between two towers. A third gatehouse, at the other end of
Page 205
the fortress, leads direct from the exterior into the south end of the inner
ward, and thus opens a communication with the root of the cape. There is
also a lateral postern with vaulted passages in the west wall of the outer
ward.
Outside the wall, encircling it closely, is the ditch, the most striking
feature in the whole fortress. This is in general plan not unlike the long
section of a pear, the northern end being the smaller, and the western side
flattened so as to be nearly straight. The counterscarp of this ditch includes
an area of about 5 acres. The ditch itself, measured from the level of the
foot of the wall crowning its scarp, is about 60 feet deep, with slopes of 1
foot horizontal to 2 feet vertical, and about 70 feet broad. It is only just not
too steep to be covered with short turf. The crest of the counterscarp is a
ridge about 6 feet broad, and about 20 feet below the level of the foot of the
wall. From it descends another slope, equally steep, but much deeper; on
the west side descending about 150 feet to the bottom of the valley, and on
the east to a rather less depth, as here this “glacis” is succeeded by a sort of
broad terrace of pasture land, which falls gently towards the river, the level
of which may be 250 feet below the platform of the castle. In many respects
these defences resemble those of Bramber, in Sussex.
At the north-west end the ditch is traversed by a very modern causeway
of earth, which supersedes the earlier drawbridge. At the south end, where
the ground is highest and the ditch about 50 feet deep and 80 feet broad,
there remain two engaged piers upon the scarp and counterscarp, and
between them two detached piers, of which the outer has fallen against the
inner. All are rectangular; and the inner of the detached two is considerably
the larger, and probably carried a tower for the protection and working of a
double drawbridge. These piers are of flint rubble, cased with ashlar, of
which a small part only remains.
At the outer end is the earthwork of a tête du pont, or ravelin, of
triangular plan, the passage from which was a little to the east side of the
apex. This work was evidently constructed when artillery was in use, and is
attributed to Henry IV., during the campaign of 1589. It no doubt represents
an earlier barbican, also of earth and timber. There are no traces of masonry
beyond the bridge. This work opens upon the ridge of the promontory,
which widens and rises somewhat higher to the south. The ground is scarred
ward, and thus opens a communication with the root of the cape. There is
also a lateral postern with vaulted passages in the west wall of the outer
ward.
Outside the wall, encircling it closely, is the ditch, the most striking
feature in the whole fortress. This is in general plan not unlike the long
section of a pear, the northern end being the smaller, and the western side
flattened so as to be nearly straight. The counterscarp of this ditch includes
an area of about 5 acres. The ditch itself, measured from the level of the
foot of the wall crowning its scarp, is about 60 feet deep, with slopes of 1
foot horizontal to 2 feet vertical, and about 70 feet broad. It is only just not
too steep to be covered with short turf. The crest of the counterscarp is a
ridge about 6 feet broad, and about 20 feet below the level of the foot of the
wall. From it descends another slope, equally steep, but much deeper; on
the west side descending about 150 feet to the bottom of the valley, and on
the east to a rather less depth, as here this “glacis” is succeeded by a sort of
broad terrace of pasture land, which falls gently towards the river, the level
of which may be 250 feet below the platform of the castle. In many respects
these defences resemble those of Bramber, in Sussex.
At the north-west end the ditch is traversed by a very modern causeway
of earth, which supersedes the earlier drawbridge. At the south end, where
the ground is highest and the ditch about 50 feet deep and 80 feet broad,
there remain two engaged piers upon the scarp and counterscarp, and
between them two detached piers, of which the outer has fallen against the
inner. All are rectangular; and the inner of the detached two is considerably
the larger, and probably carried a tower for the protection and working of a
double drawbridge. These piers are of flint rubble, cased with ashlar, of
which a small part only remains.
At the outer end is the earthwork of a tête du pont, or ravelin, of
triangular plan, the passage from which was a little to the east side of the
apex. This work was evidently constructed when artillery was in use, and is
attributed to Henry IV., during the campaign of 1589. It no doubt represents
an earlier barbican, also of earth and timber. There are no traces of masonry
beyond the bridge. This work opens upon the ridge of the promontory,
which widens and rises somewhat higher to the south. The ground is scarred
Page 206
with banks and ditches, the remains of fieldworks of various dates, both of
attack and defence.
The design of this castle ditch is peculiar. The more obvious plan would
have been to place the walls upon the edge of the hill, and scarp its sides
down to the valley with such steepness as suited the ground. Instead of this,
the upper 40 feet of the hill, being chalk rock, was scarped vertically, and
then faced or revetted by a wall, upon which was placed the enceinte wall
of the inner ward. At the foot of the revetment was then excavated the ditch
just described, the material being thrown outwards so as to form an artificial
scarp, which thus became a sort of advanced banquette or earthwork
beyond the ditch, representing the crest of the glacis, and capable of being
held by a line of soldiers, but which, when taken, was too exposed and too
narrow to allow of its being held, or of cover being constructed upon it.
This banquette was at a rather lower level than the foot of the opposite wall.
Such an arrangement is found in other castles in Normandy, and notably,
as pointed out by M. Deville, at Molineaux, De Longueville, Bec de
Montagne, and in the later work of Château-Gaillard, where, however, it is
less marked.
The keep is rectangular, about 80 feet north and south by 70 feet east and
west, and at present about 60 feet high. It stands in the south-west corner of
the inner ward, close to the enceinte wall, of which its south-west angle
forms a part. Its walls at the ground level are about 13 feet thick. It presents
three buttresses on the north face and two on the south—the third being a
sort of cap thickening and enveloping the south-east angle. These are of the
unusual breadth and projection of 9 feet, and they rise to the present, which
cannot be above 10 feet below the original summit. At the north-east angle
the adjacent buttresses are set square, leaving the angle free. The south face
is plain, or nearly so, excepting the cap at its south-east angle, which
extends southwards, and is connected with the adjacent enceinte wall. The
west face is plain, outside of which was the entrance.
This is composed of a flight of steps, beginning upon the north face,
passing by a doorway through its most westerly buttress, and which then,
turning, is continued along the west face, until at its south end it lands in the
usual square appendage or forebuilding common in these keeps. This
staircase was guarded by an exterior wall, and had gateways at its foot and
attack and defence.
The design of this castle ditch is peculiar. The more obvious plan would
have been to place the walls upon the edge of the hill, and scarp its sides
down to the valley with such steepness as suited the ground. Instead of this,
the upper 40 feet of the hill, being chalk rock, was scarped vertically, and
then faced or revetted by a wall, upon which was placed the enceinte wall
of the inner ward. At the foot of the revetment was then excavated the ditch
just described, the material being thrown outwards so as to form an artificial
scarp, which thus became a sort of advanced banquette or earthwork
beyond the ditch, representing the crest of the glacis, and capable of being
held by a line of soldiers, but which, when taken, was too exposed and too
narrow to allow of its being held, or of cover being constructed upon it.
This banquette was at a rather lower level than the foot of the opposite wall.
Such an arrangement is found in other castles in Normandy, and notably,
as pointed out by M. Deville, at Molineaux, De Longueville, Bec de
Montagne, and in the later work of Château-Gaillard, where, however, it is
less marked.
The keep is rectangular, about 80 feet north and south by 70 feet east and
west, and at present about 60 feet high. It stands in the south-west corner of
the inner ward, close to the enceinte wall, of which its south-west angle
forms a part. Its walls at the ground level are about 13 feet thick. It presents
three buttresses on the north face and two on the south—the third being a
sort of cap thickening and enveloping the south-east angle. These are of the
unusual breadth and projection of 9 feet, and they rise to the present, which
cannot be above 10 feet below the original summit. At the north-east angle
the adjacent buttresses are set square, leaving the angle free. The south face
is plain, or nearly so, excepting the cap at its south-east angle, which
extends southwards, and is connected with the adjacent enceinte wall. The
west face is plain, outside of which was the entrance.
This is composed of a flight of steps, beginning upon the north face,
passing by a doorway through its most westerly buttress, and which then,
turning, is continued along the west face, until at its south end it lands in the
usual square appendage or forebuilding common in these keeps. This
staircase was guarded by an exterior wall, and had gateways at its foot and
Page 207
its summit. It was covered over, as appears from marks upon the wall; and
above it was no doubt the usual platform for defence. In the basement of the
forebuilding, which forms also part of the enceinte wall, was a vaulted
chamber opening into the basement of the keep, as at Rochester, either a
store or a prison. The landing story was barrel-vaulted, having at one end a
loop towards the field, and at the other a door in the wall of the keep.
Entering this door, the staircase is continued southward in the wall of the
keep, up a roughly-vaulted, round-headed, mural gallery, until at the angle it
reaches the level of the first floor. The gallery now turns the angle, and is
continued on the level half-way along the south wall, when it is stopped
abruptly. A door on the right leads upon the enceinte rampart, and one on
the left probably led into the keep.
The interior of the keep is composed of a basement and an upper or,
perhaps, two floors, divided by a north and south wall into two chambers on
a floor. This division-wall is said to be original, and ought to be so in a keep
of this size, but it looks of the sixteenth century, and may represent an older
one. The west basement is much choked up with rubbish. The east chamber
is tolerably clear, and shows an exterior aperture in its east wall, near the
south end, which communicates with the adjacent south gateway. This may
be original, but it is now a mere hole. In the north wall is a short mural
gallery, entering a well-stair in the north-east angle, which ascends to the
first floor and chapel only. The lower stage was not vaulted. The first floor
has four windows on the north side, two in each room, and one on the east
side. The second floor had also similar windows on its north, and a vaulted
chamber on its east side; no doubt a chapel. This chapel is formed by
throwing a vault from buttress to buttress for its floor, and at a higher level
for its roof, and above this were the leads. There are traces of similar
chambers on the north front. The upper story has been vaulted in six bays,
three on each side, duly groined and ribbed, as is shown by the springers.
The material and the workmanship, no less than the section of the ribs,
show this to be a late addition, probably of the sixteenth century.
above it was no doubt the usual platform for defence. In the basement of the
forebuilding, which forms also part of the enceinte wall, was a vaulted
chamber opening into the basement of the keep, as at Rochester, either a
store or a prison. The landing story was barrel-vaulted, having at one end a
loop towards the field, and at the other a door in the wall of the keep.
Entering this door, the staircase is continued southward in the wall of the
keep, up a roughly-vaulted, round-headed, mural gallery, until at the angle it
reaches the level of the first floor. The gallery now turns the angle, and is
continued on the level half-way along the south wall, when it is stopped
abruptly. A door on the right leads upon the enceinte rampart, and one on
the left probably led into the keep.
The interior of the keep is composed of a basement and an upper or,
perhaps, two floors, divided by a north and south wall into two chambers on
a floor. This division-wall is said to be original, and ought to be so in a keep
of this size, but it looks of the sixteenth century, and may represent an older
one. The west basement is much choked up with rubbish. The east chamber
is tolerably clear, and shows an exterior aperture in its east wall, near the
south end, which communicates with the adjacent south gateway. This may
be original, but it is now a mere hole. In the north wall is a short mural
gallery, entering a well-stair in the north-east angle, which ascends to the
first floor and chapel only. The lower stage was not vaulted. The first floor
has four windows on the north side, two in each room, and one on the east
side. The second floor had also similar windows on its north, and a vaulted
chamber on its east side; no doubt a chapel. This chapel is formed by
throwing a vault from buttress to buttress for its floor, and at a higher level
for its roof, and above this were the leads. There are traces of similar
chambers on the north front. The upper story has been vaulted in six bays,
three on each side, duly groined and ribbed, as is shown by the springers.
The material and the workmanship, no less than the section of the ribs,
show this to be a late addition, probably of the sixteenth century.
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PLAN OF THE CASTLE OF ARQUES, NORMANDY.
A. Keep. E. Old Ditch. I. South Gate.
B. Inner Ward. F. Glacis. K. Barbican.
C. Outer Ward. G. New Ditch. L. North Gate.
D. Walls of Le Bel. H. Norman Gate. a. Galleries.
The supposed two upper floors were very possibly intended for one floor
of state, with two tiers of windows and a chapel above. The chapel seems to
have had a barrel round-headed vault, probably groined. The accounts show
this eastern side to have been the royal chamber in the fourteenth century.
The fireplaces seem to be confined to the upper floors. As now seen, they
are of the date of the vaulting.
In the south-west angle of the keep, very near the wall, is the well, of
which the pipe was continued at least to the first floor, as in the additions at
Richmond. It is about 6 feet diameter, lined with ashlar, and in 1768 was
choked up at 254 feet deep, or about the level of the river; a depth now
reduced to 30 or 40 feet.
A. Keep. E. Old Ditch. I. South Gate.
B. Inner Ward. F. Glacis. K. Barbican.
C. Outer Ward. G. New Ditch. L. North Gate.
D. Walls of Le Bel. H. Norman Gate. a. Galleries.
The supposed two upper floors were very possibly intended for one floor
of state, with two tiers of windows and a chapel above. The chapel seems to
have had a barrel round-headed vault, probably groined. The accounts show
this eastern side to have been the royal chamber in the fourteenth century.
The fireplaces seem to be confined to the upper floors. As now seen, they
are of the date of the vaulting.
In the south-west angle of the keep, very near the wall, is the well, of
which the pipe was continued at least to the first floor, as in the additions at
Richmond. It is about 6 feet diameter, lined with ashlar, and in 1768 was
choked up at 254 feet deep, or about the level of the river; a depth now
reduced to 30 or 40 feet.
Page 209
Outside, between the buttresses, are traces of walls, as though the spaces
between them had been turned to account below as well as above; but these
walls are thin, and do not seem original.
M. Deville cites the public records for the existence in 1318 of four
turrets on the keep, roofed with lead.
M. Le Duc, in his Dictionary, Art. “Donjon,” gives a great variety of very
curious detail connected with this keep, detail unknown to M. Deville, and
for which there should be some authority other than the traces actually
existing, which are very unsatisfactory.
The keep is built of large chalk flints grouted copiously in mortar, and
cased outside with ashlar, now mostly stripped off and removed. Within, the
flints are occasionally laid herring-bone fashion. The ashlar was a
calcareous tufa, known in the country, and formed by the trickling of
calcareous springs over moss and similar vegetation. It was much used in
the earlier French castles. The later ashlar of the vaulting ribs and inserted
door-cases seems to be a fine hard limestone, approaching Caen stone in
appearance, and perhaps actually that material. Where the ashlar is wanting,
the putlog holes are seen, placed with exceeding regularity. The joints of the
original ashlar are large, those of the later fine. The new and old ashlar can
readily be distinguished; but one flint wall is very much like another.
The inner ward, in length about 160 yards, and in its greatest breadth
about 70 yards, is a natural chalk platform, revetted all round by a wall
about 8 feet thick, which on the east side is reduced to a parapet, but on the
west rises about 20 feet higher, probably its original height. In 1708 this
court contained the apartments of the governor and the staff of the garrison,
a well, and a chapel. These were probably of the sixteenth century or later,
and have now entirely disappeared.
The enceinte wall, which girdles this inner ward, deserves attention, as
most of it is of early date. Setting aside the four northern towers with their
curtains, which are of later date, we have about 380 yards of curtain broken
by five mural towers and three rectangular buttresses. Nearly the whole of
the wall is faced with flint, with three bands of ashlar. Much of the flint is
laid in herring-bone fashion, the repairs, where of brick, being of much later
date. The ashlar bands are of tufa. Of the towers two, half round, are on the
east front. Of these one, though probably original, has been cased with
between them had been turned to account below as well as above; but these
walls are thin, and do not seem original.
M. Deville cites the public records for the existence in 1318 of four
turrets on the keep, roofed with lead.
M. Le Duc, in his Dictionary, Art. “Donjon,” gives a great variety of very
curious detail connected with this keep, detail unknown to M. Deville, and
for which there should be some authority other than the traces actually
existing, which are very unsatisfactory.
The keep is built of large chalk flints grouted copiously in mortar, and
cased outside with ashlar, now mostly stripped off and removed. Within, the
flints are occasionally laid herring-bone fashion. The ashlar was a
calcareous tufa, known in the country, and formed by the trickling of
calcareous springs over moss and similar vegetation. It was much used in
the earlier French castles. The later ashlar of the vaulting ribs and inserted
door-cases seems to be a fine hard limestone, approaching Caen stone in
appearance, and perhaps actually that material. Where the ashlar is wanting,
the putlog holes are seen, placed with exceeding regularity. The joints of the
original ashlar are large, those of the later fine. The new and old ashlar can
readily be distinguished; but one flint wall is very much like another.
The inner ward, in length about 160 yards, and in its greatest breadth
about 70 yards, is a natural chalk platform, revetted all round by a wall
about 8 feet thick, which on the east side is reduced to a parapet, but on the
west rises about 20 feet higher, probably its original height. In 1708 this
court contained the apartments of the governor and the staff of the garrison,
a well, and a chapel. These were probably of the sixteenth century or later,
and have now entirely disappeared.
The enceinte wall, which girdles this inner ward, deserves attention, as
most of it is of early date. Setting aside the four northern towers with their
curtains, which are of later date, we have about 380 yards of curtain broken
by five mural towers and three rectangular buttresses. Nearly the whole of
the wall is faced with flint, with three bands of ashlar. Much of the flint is
laid in herring-bone fashion, the repairs, where of brick, being of much later
date. The ashlar bands are of tufa. Of the towers two, half round, are on the
east front. Of these one, though probably original, has been cased with
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brick. The other has had an ashlar base, and the upper part, of flint, shows
herring-bone work. Each is about 15 feet diameter, with walls 5 feet thick.
Between these towers are three rectangular buttresses; two of 15 feet
breadth and 12 feet projection, and one about 7 feet square. The two former
contain no herring-bone work, and are probably early additions, perhaps by
Henry I.; the latter is original.
On the west face are now no towers, but in 1708 there were two, half
round, and of small size, traces of which remain. They were, no doubt,
original.
The remaining three towers capped the three salient angles of the south
end, the central containing the gateway, and the others flanking it. All are
one quarter engaged.
The flanking towers are alike, about 22 feet diameter and 55 feet high
from the exterior base, with walls 7 feet thick. The bases are either solid or
pierced by steps leading down to the galleries. There is a regular basement
story, and above it a floor on the level of the inner ward. They are not
vaulted and show no exterior herring-bone work, though one has a little
inside. A modern summer-house has been built upon that to the south-east.
The central or gate-tower is 24 feet diameter. It is pierced at the level of
the scarp by a portal which opens upon the drawbridge, the piers of which
have been described; and there is a stage above this.
The portal ascends towards the keep; its details are much broken down,
and little can be made of them.
Of the enceinte of the inner ward there remains to be noted the northern
gatehouse. This, the original and, probably, the only entrance to the Norman
fortress, though much ruined, does not appear to have been materially
altered. It consists in a rectangular building, 40 feet deep by 20 feet broad,
set in the centre of the curtain, with which its outer face is nearly flush. It is
crossed by an outer, middle, and inner wall, each pierced by an arch of 12
feet opening, through which lies the passage. There remain the rectangular
grooves of a portcullis, and a few years ago there was evidence of a second,
and in the wall is herring-bone work. The arches are plain, without
moulding or chamfer. The inner one is round-headed, and springs from a
flat abacus, chamfered below. The joints of the ashlar work are about 1 inch
herring-bone work. Each is about 15 feet diameter, with walls 5 feet thick.
Between these towers are three rectangular buttresses; two of 15 feet
breadth and 12 feet projection, and one about 7 feet square. The two former
contain no herring-bone work, and are probably early additions, perhaps by
Henry I.; the latter is original.
On the west face are now no towers, but in 1708 there were two, half
round, and of small size, traces of which remain. They were, no doubt,
original.
The remaining three towers capped the three salient angles of the south
end, the central containing the gateway, and the others flanking it. All are
one quarter engaged.
The flanking towers are alike, about 22 feet diameter and 55 feet high
from the exterior base, with walls 7 feet thick. The bases are either solid or
pierced by steps leading down to the galleries. There is a regular basement
story, and above it a floor on the level of the inner ward. They are not
vaulted and show no exterior herring-bone work, though one has a little
inside. A modern summer-house has been built upon that to the south-east.
The central or gate-tower is 24 feet diameter. It is pierced at the level of
the scarp by a portal which opens upon the drawbridge, the piers of which
have been described; and there is a stage above this.
The portal ascends towards the keep; its details are much broken down,
and little can be made of them.
Of the enceinte of the inner ward there remains to be noted the northern
gatehouse. This, the original and, probably, the only entrance to the Norman
fortress, though much ruined, does not appear to have been materially
altered. It consists in a rectangular building, 40 feet deep by 20 feet broad,
set in the centre of the curtain, with which its outer face is nearly flush. It is
crossed by an outer, middle, and inner wall, each pierced by an arch of 12
feet opening, through which lies the passage. There remain the rectangular
grooves of a portcullis, and a few years ago there was evidence of a second,
and in the wall is herring-bone work. The arches are plain, without
moulding or chamfer. The inner one is round-headed, and springs from a
flat abacus, chamfered below. The joints of the ashlar work are about 1 inch
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wide. The curtains on either side of this gateway, though much repaired,
seem to be original, and there are traces of the old round gate-towers. The
pit of the drawbridge remains in front of the gate, upon the original line of
fosse.
The outer ward no doubt occupies the site of an earlier outwork. It is built
against the narrow and north end of the inner ward, is four-sided, about 250
feet north and south, by a mean of 110 feet east and west. Its west side is
straight, being the continued line of that face of the old fortress. The east
face has a slight re-entering angle, caused apparently by the shape of the
ground. At the two southern angles are two large drum towers, which
connect the old and newer work, and probably replace two smaller and
older towers. These stand in the line of the old ditch, and flank the Norman
gateway. That to the south-west, rather the larger of the two, and slightly
oval in plan, has a mean diameter of 60 feet; it is of two stages. Both are
vaulted, or rather domed. That to the south-east, of 50 feet diameter, is
nearly circular, but has a remarkable spur or keel-shaped projection towards
the field. It is of three stages, the two lower being domed. These towers are
in fact casemates, having embrasures for small culverins towards the field.
Each has a well-stair in its southern side, and is entered from the gorge.
The two other towers cap the northern angles of the ward, and flank the
main gateway. They are of irregular form, semicircular to the field and
angular within. In diameter they are about 40 feet, and about the same
height. They are of two stages, which have been domed. The walls of these
four towers are from 14 feet to 16 feet thick. They are of flint faced with
brick.
Between the gate-tower is the gateway, composed of a larger and smaller
portal, the latter very narrow. The present work is modern, but no doubt in
this double entry represents the earlier openings. The ditch, two detached
piers standing in it, and with these any traces of the drawbridge, are
concealed by the modern causeway.
In the west curtain, near the south-west tower, a flight of steps beneath
hanging arches of brick descends from the ward level in the direction of the
foot of the wall. This is much encumbered with ruin, but seems to have
been a postern, opening upon the ditch.
seem to be original, and there are traces of the old round gate-towers. The
pit of the drawbridge remains in front of the gate, upon the original line of
fosse.
The outer ward no doubt occupies the site of an earlier outwork. It is built
against the narrow and north end of the inner ward, is four-sided, about 250
feet north and south, by a mean of 110 feet east and west. Its west side is
straight, being the continued line of that face of the old fortress. The east
face has a slight re-entering angle, caused apparently by the shape of the
ground. At the two southern angles are two large drum towers, which
connect the old and newer work, and probably replace two smaller and
older towers. These stand in the line of the old ditch, and flank the Norman
gateway. That to the south-west, rather the larger of the two, and slightly
oval in plan, has a mean diameter of 60 feet; it is of two stages. Both are
vaulted, or rather domed. That to the south-east, of 50 feet diameter, is
nearly circular, but has a remarkable spur or keel-shaped projection towards
the field. It is of three stages, the two lower being domed. These towers are
in fact casemates, having embrasures for small culverins towards the field.
Each has a well-stair in its southern side, and is entered from the gorge.
The two other towers cap the northern angles of the ward, and flank the
main gateway. They are of irregular form, semicircular to the field and
angular within. In diameter they are about 40 feet, and about the same
height. They are of two stages, which have been domed. The walls of these
four towers are from 14 feet to 16 feet thick. They are of flint faced with
brick.
Between the gate-tower is the gateway, composed of a larger and smaller
portal, the latter very narrow. The present work is modern, but no doubt in
this double entry represents the earlier openings. The ditch, two detached
piers standing in it, and with these any traces of the drawbridge, are
concealed by the modern causeway.
In the west curtain, near the south-west tower, a flight of steps beneath
hanging arches of brick descends from the ward level in the direction of the
foot of the wall. This is much encumbered with ruin, but seems to have
been a postern, opening upon the ditch.
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All the works of this outer ward are of flint, rubble-faced with brick,
which material forms the lines of the embrasures. The quoins are sometimes
of ashlar, as are the extensive string-courses and bands, and the dressings of
the openings. Traces of herring-bone work in its west curtain, outside, will
be accounted for afterwards.
As the original castle was confined to the inner ward, its ditch
everywhere encircled it. When the outer ward was added, the intercepted
portion of the ditch was partially filled up, but the new work was included
in a new ditch, which was an accurate prolongation of the old one, of equal
depth and breadth, and continued in the same direction. Accurate
observation will, however, detect two slight shoulders in the counterscarp,
showing where began the curve of the old ditch.
Very remarkable in this castle are the subterranean galleries, driven in the
chalk rock beneath the lines of the original wall, and behind the scarp of the
ditch. These are now in part blocked up, but there still remain two or three
hundred yards of them of which the direction is known. They are entered by
a passage in the inner ward, in its north-west quarter, and by a descent of
fifty-four steps near the keep, and possibly from other points now lost. The
galleries are about 7 feet high and 6 feet wide, rudely cut, and somewhat
singularly laid out. They lie within, without, and beneath the wall, and give
off frequent spurs or short passages intended to occupy any space in which
a mine was likely to be opened. At this time they have been broken into at
three or four points in the scarp of the ditch, about half-way down. They
were intended as a system of permanent counter mines to meet any attempt
at mining on the part of the besiegers. In one place a large central pier is
surrounded by a gallery, whence the branches go off,—an arrangement
intended probably to check the progress of those who might break in. So far
as is known, these galleries, of which a survey was made in 1708, are
confined to the southern half, or four-fifths of the old castle. There are none
under the outer ward.
Outside, and to the north-east of the outer gate, are some semicircular
platforms, which seem to have played a part in the defence of the castle; but
whether before or after the use of artillery is uncertain.
The Bel.—A curtain wall, which originally was about 5 feet thick, and
from 15 feet to 20 feet high, commences abruptly upon the crest of the
which material forms the lines of the embrasures. The quoins are sometimes
of ashlar, as are the extensive string-courses and bands, and the dressings of
the openings. Traces of herring-bone work in its west curtain, outside, will
be accounted for afterwards.
As the original castle was confined to the inner ward, its ditch
everywhere encircled it. When the outer ward was added, the intercepted
portion of the ditch was partially filled up, but the new work was included
in a new ditch, which was an accurate prolongation of the old one, of equal
depth and breadth, and continued in the same direction. Accurate
observation will, however, detect two slight shoulders in the counterscarp,
showing where began the curve of the old ditch.
Very remarkable in this castle are the subterranean galleries, driven in the
chalk rock beneath the lines of the original wall, and behind the scarp of the
ditch. These are now in part blocked up, but there still remain two or three
hundred yards of them of which the direction is known. They are entered by
a passage in the inner ward, in its north-west quarter, and by a descent of
fifty-four steps near the keep, and possibly from other points now lost. The
galleries are about 7 feet high and 6 feet wide, rudely cut, and somewhat
singularly laid out. They lie within, without, and beneath the wall, and give
off frequent spurs or short passages intended to occupy any space in which
a mine was likely to be opened. At this time they have been broken into at
three or four points in the scarp of the ditch, about half-way down. They
were intended as a system of permanent counter mines to meet any attempt
at mining on the part of the besiegers. In one place a large central pier is
surrounded by a gallery, whence the branches go off,—an arrangement
intended probably to check the progress of those who might break in. So far
as is known, these galleries, of which a survey was made in 1708, are
confined to the southern half, or four-fifths of the old castle. There are none
under the outer ward.
Outside, and to the north-east of the outer gate, are some semicircular
platforms, which seem to have played a part in the defence of the castle; but
whether before or after the use of artillery is uncertain.
The Bel.—A curtain wall, which originally was about 5 feet thick, and
from 15 feet to 20 feet high, commences abruptly upon the crest of the
Page 213
counterscarp in two places; one on the east opposite to the mural tower,
which marks about the centre of that front of the castle, and thence
descends towards the river; and the other north, close outside of the
drawbridge of the main entrance. This latter wall is continued down the hill,
and makes a bold sweep towards the town, and, finally reaching the river
bank, joins the river wall. The enclosure thus formed contains about twice
the area included by the ditch of the castle, and has long been known as Le
Bel or La Baile, a form evidently of the Norman-Latin Ballium, called by us
the “Bailey.” This enclosure is traversed by the road from Dieppe to
Martigny, which passes through the two gates bearing those names. A third,
or water-gate to the east, opened upon the river. Upon the north front appear
to have been two small half-round mural towers, of which one remains. The
river has somewhat encroached upon the lower part of the Bel, and has
undermined part of the wall.
The Dieppe gate, which is also that from the town of Arques, was in 1433
called “La Première Port du Bel de Château d’Arques,” and, as such, was
the subject of a tenure by castle guard, the tenant being bound to defend it
for forty days in time of war. From this gate the approach ascends to the
castle, having the curtain-wall as a protection on its right. Where this wall
approaches the castle, at either end, it is covered by a broad ditch, continued
down the slope.
A flint wall may be of any age, but the remains of the gates, which a few
years ago showed round-headed arches, prove this inclosure to be of early
date, probably one of the earliest additions to the castle, and made by Henry
I. No doubt, before the construction of the outer ward, the wall of the Bel
was produced so as to unite with those of the castle. M. Deville has
discovered a part of this wall worked into the great curtain of the outer
ward, which lies in its line, and may still be seen.
Looking to the history of this castle, and to the evidence afforded by its
remains, it seems probable that the keep is the oldest part of the masonry,
and the work of the Conqueror’s uncle, Guillaume d’Arques, between the
years 1039–1043, and it is supposed to be one of the earliest, if not the
earliest, of the rectangular Norman keeps known. The chronicle of
Normandy, cited by M. Deville, says of William, “Si fist faire une tour
moult forte, audessus du chastel d’Arques”; as though there had been an
earlier castle, which the aspect of the earthworks renders highly probable.
which marks about the centre of that front of the castle, and thence
descends towards the river; and the other north, close outside of the
drawbridge of the main entrance. This latter wall is continued down the hill,
and makes a bold sweep towards the town, and, finally reaching the river
bank, joins the river wall. The enclosure thus formed contains about twice
the area included by the ditch of the castle, and has long been known as Le
Bel or La Baile, a form evidently of the Norman-Latin Ballium, called by us
the “Bailey.” This enclosure is traversed by the road from Dieppe to
Martigny, which passes through the two gates bearing those names. A third,
or water-gate to the east, opened upon the river. Upon the north front appear
to have been two small half-round mural towers, of which one remains. The
river has somewhat encroached upon the lower part of the Bel, and has
undermined part of the wall.
The Dieppe gate, which is also that from the town of Arques, was in 1433
called “La Première Port du Bel de Château d’Arques,” and, as such, was
the subject of a tenure by castle guard, the tenant being bound to defend it
for forty days in time of war. From this gate the approach ascends to the
castle, having the curtain-wall as a protection on its right. Where this wall
approaches the castle, at either end, it is covered by a broad ditch, continued
down the slope.
A flint wall may be of any age, but the remains of the gates, which a few
years ago showed round-headed arches, prove this inclosure to be of early
date, probably one of the earliest additions to the castle, and made by Henry
I. No doubt, before the construction of the outer ward, the wall of the Bel
was produced so as to unite with those of the castle. M. Deville has
discovered a part of this wall worked into the great curtain of the outer
ward, which lies in its line, and may still be seen.
Looking to the history of this castle, and to the evidence afforded by its
remains, it seems probable that the keep is the oldest part of the masonry,
and the work of the Conqueror’s uncle, Guillaume d’Arques, between the
years 1039–1043, and it is supposed to be one of the earliest, if not the
earliest, of the rectangular Norman keeps known. The chronicle of
Normandy, cited by M. Deville, says of William, “Si fist faire une tour
moult forte, audessus du chastel d’Arques”; as though there had been an
earlier castle, which the aspect of the earthworks renders highly probable.
Page 214
To the Conqueror or his immediate successor must be attributed the
enceinte of the inner ward and the formation of the galleries. The ditch may
be much older than the western masonry. The inner ward no doubt formed
part of the original plan, and it is only the occasional appearance of round
turrets upon the wall that leads to the opinion that any time intervened
between the actual construction of the keep and of its surroundings.
The southern entrance, with its gate and two flanking towers, and one or
two of the other mural towers or buttresses, seem to be additions, but of the
Norman period, probably the work of the Conqueror’s son, King Henry I.,
who, about 1123, seems also to have enclosed the Bel. Robert de Thorigny
—called also “Du Mont,” from his abbacy of Mont St. Michael—a Norman
chronicler of the twelfth century, says that King Henry I. “fortified
admirably the castle of Arques with walls and a tower.” This has been held
to show that the whole structure was the work of Henry, who reigned from
1105 to 1135, and the extreme boldness of the buttresses and
superincumbent constructions of the keep no doubt favour this view; but, as
M. Deville remarks in the same passage, similar reference is made to
Gisors, Falaise, and other castles, known to be of earlier date.
M. Deville is disposed to attribute the southern gate to Charles V., as he
finds a record of 1367, charging cost of transport of 6 “nances” of stone,
each of 16 to 18 “tonneaux,” from the river to the castle, for the masonry of
the new bridge and the new gate of the castle. This material was taken by
the king’s direction from the dismantled “manoir” of Veules or Weulles, at
St. Valery-en-Caux. The accounts of 1378–80 mention the tower on the
bridge behind the keep, its drawbridge, axles, ties, “vergues” or levers 18
feet long, and its beams of 9 feet. This was probably the southern
drawbridge and gate, including the opening of the communication between
this and the basement of the keep. These works are attributed to Charles V.
about 1378–80. He probably only pierced the existing central tower, not
otherwise altering or rebuilding it.
The next considerable work was the outer ward, which may be attributed
to the fifteenth century, subsequently to the general use of brick and the
introduction of siege artillery. It is singular that no record of this very
considerable work should be preserved, for it included not only the outer
ward, a castle in itself, with its enormous towers and massive curtains, but
the extension of the very formidable ditch, the repair of the older walls and
enceinte of the inner ward and the formation of the galleries. The ditch may
be much older than the western masonry. The inner ward no doubt formed
part of the original plan, and it is only the occasional appearance of round
turrets upon the wall that leads to the opinion that any time intervened
between the actual construction of the keep and of its surroundings.
The southern entrance, with its gate and two flanking towers, and one or
two of the other mural towers or buttresses, seem to be additions, but of the
Norman period, probably the work of the Conqueror’s son, King Henry I.,
who, about 1123, seems also to have enclosed the Bel. Robert de Thorigny
—called also “Du Mont,” from his abbacy of Mont St. Michael—a Norman
chronicler of the twelfth century, says that King Henry I. “fortified
admirably the castle of Arques with walls and a tower.” This has been held
to show that the whole structure was the work of Henry, who reigned from
1105 to 1135, and the extreme boldness of the buttresses and
superincumbent constructions of the keep no doubt favour this view; but, as
M. Deville remarks in the same passage, similar reference is made to
Gisors, Falaise, and other castles, known to be of earlier date.
M. Deville is disposed to attribute the southern gate to Charles V., as he
finds a record of 1367, charging cost of transport of 6 “nances” of stone,
each of 16 to 18 “tonneaux,” from the river to the castle, for the masonry of
the new bridge and the new gate of the castle. This material was taken by
the king’s direction from the dismantled “manoir” of Veules or Weulles, at
St. Valery-en-Caux. The accounts of 1378–80 mention the tower on the
bridge behind the keep, its drawbridge, axles, ties, “vergues” or levers 18
feet long, and its beams of 9 feet. This was probably the southern
drawbridge and gate, including the opening of the communication between
this and the basement of the keep. These works are attributed to Charles V.
about 1378–80. He probably only pierced the existing central tower, not
otherwise altering or rebuilding it.
The next considerable work was the outer ward, which may be attributed
to the fifteenth century, subsequently to the general use of brick and the
introduction of siege artillery. It is singular that no record of this very
considerable work should be preserved, for it included not only the outer
ward, a castle in itself, with its enormous towers and massive curtains, but
the extension of the very formidable ditch, the repair of the older walls and
Page 215
towers, and finally the fitting up and vaulting of the keep. All this is
supposed to have been the work of Francis I., and it is said that the date of
1553 was inscribed upon some of the additions to the keep.
Henry IV., during his occupation of the castle in 1589, may have
constructed quarters in the inner ward and repaired what was amiss in the
old building; but more probably his traces are to be found in the field works
which crown the adjacent hills, and along the high ground towards Dieppe.
It has been thought that the ditch of the castle is a remain of an older
fortification, such a work as the early Northmen or still earlier Celts might
have constructed. No doubt this was usually the case with the sites of the
great Norman castles, both in Normandy and in England, and the position
of Arques is a tempting one. There is, however, no positive evidence of an
earlier encampment.
It will be observed that the keep is so placed as to command both the
inner ward and the most exposed side of the castle,—that along the level
ridge of the promontory. It was perfectly capable of holding out when all
else was taken, and finally, if threatened with fire or starvation, its garrison
had a possible escape by the galleries.
This castle is the triumph of Norman skill. Often attacked, it was never
taken by storm. Without being a royal residence it was visited in peace or in
war by our Norman kings, from the Conqueror to John, and by most of the
kings of France, from Henry I. to Henry IV.; and, after a lapse of 800 years,
its oldest parts are still those best worth attention, and are at least as well
preserved as the additions of far later date.
supposed to have been the work of Francis I., and it is said that the date of
1553 was inscribed upon some of the additions to the keep.
Henry IV., during his occupation of the castle in 1589, may have
constructed quarters in the inner ward and repaired what was amiss in the
old building; but more probably his traces are to be found in the field works
which crown the adjacent hills, and along the high ground towards Dieppe.
It has been thought that the ditch of the castle is a remain of an older
fortification, such a work as the early Northmen or still earlier Celts might
have constructed. No doubt this was usually the case with the sites of the
great Norman castles, both in Normandy and in England, and the position
of Arques is a tempting one. There is, however, no positive evidence of an
earlier encampment.
It will be observed that the keep is so placed as to command both the
inner ward and the most exposed side of the castle,—that along the level
ridge of the promontory. It was perfectly capable of holding out when all
else was taken, and finally, if threatened with fire or starvation, its garrison
had a possible escape by the galleries.
This castle is the triumph of Norman skill. Often attacked, it was never
taken by storm. Without being a royal residence it was visited in peace or in
war by our Norman kings, from the Conqueror to John, and by most of the
kings of France, from Henry I. to Henry IV.; and, after a lapse of 800 years,
its oldest parts are still those best worth attention, and are at least as well
preserved as the additions of far later date.
Page 216
ARUNDEL CASTLE, SUSSEX.
ARUNDEL, in its position, magnitude, and history, is one of the foremost
of the mediæval military structures of England. English in its origin,
Norman by adoption, it is not only among the rare castles recorded in
Domesday, but is the only one therein specifically mentioned as in
existence before the coming in of Duke William. It was held by Alfred and
by Harold, and was granted with its surrounding and dependent lordships
by William to the head of the great house of Montgomery as an
acknowledgment of kinship, and a fitting reward for his distinguished
services at Hastings. Three members and two generations of that family
held the castle for about thirty-two years. They were followed by Henry I.
and his Queen, who held it for half a century, and it has since descended in
succession by the lines of D’Albini, Fitz-Alan, and Howard, through seven
centuries of inheritance, to its present lord. Though less extensive in area, it
is equal to Windsor in antiquity and position, and resembles it closely in
type, having an upper and lower ward, and a lofty mound partially
interposed between the two, girdled by a deep fosse and crowned by a
circular keep. Within its precinct is the Chapel of St. George, and far
beyond the walls, but in one direction only, extends its broad demesne. Just
beyond the wall of the Norman castle, but probably within the earlier
English outwork, stands the fine parish church, a Fitz-Alan gift, and
attached to its east end is the chapel of the college founded by Richard, Earl
of Arundel, in 1386, and now, by a grant or purchase in the reign of Edward
VI., vested in the descendants of its founder, and the private property of the
lord of the castle. The buildings of the college are mostly removed, and the
chapel contains many tombs of great magnificence and considerable
historic interest, beneath which rest the remains of many members of the
great house of Fitz-Alan, who loved full well and gave full largely to that
church to which their Howard descendant has shown himself a not less
liberal benefactor.
The Arun, a principal river of the south, has its sources in Surrey. It
traverses the whole breadth, here about twenty miles, of the county of
ARUNDEL, in its position, magnitude, and history, is one of the foremost
of the mediæval military structures of England. English in its origin,
Norman by adoption, it is not only among the rare castles recorded in
Domesday, but is the only one therein specifically mentioned as in
existence before the coming in of Duke William. It was held by Alfred and
by Harold, and was granted with its surrounding and dependent lordships
by William to the head of the great house of Montgomery as an
acknowledgment of kinship, and a fitting reward for his distinguished
services at Hastings. Three members and two generations of that family
held the castle for about thirty-two years. They were followed by Henry I.
and his Queen, who held it for half a century, and it has since descended in
succession by the lines of D’Albini, Fitz-Alan, and Howard, through seven
centuries of inheritance, to its present lord. Though less extensive in area, it
is equal to Windsor in antiquity and position, and resembles it closely in
type, having an upper and lower ward, and a lofty mound partially
interposed between the two, girdled by a deep fosse and crowned by a
circular keep. Within its precinct is the Chapel of St. George, and far
beyond the walls, but in one direction only, extends its broad demesne. Just
beyond the wall of the Norman castle, but probably within the earlier
English outwork, stands the fine parish church, a Fitz-Alan gift, and
attached to its east end is the chapel of the college founded by Richard, Earl
of Arundel, in 1386, and now, by a grant or purchase in the reign of Edward
VI., vested in the descendants of its founder, and the private property of the
lord of the castle. The buildings of the college are mostly removed, and the
chapel contains many tombs of great magnificence and considerable
historic interest, beneath which rest the remains of many members of the
great house of Fitz-Alan, who loved full well and gave full largely to that
church to which their Howard descendant has shown himself a not less
liberal benefactor.
The Arun, a principal river of the south, has its sources in Surrey. It
traverses the whole breadth, here about twenty miles, of the county of
Page 217
Sussex, and in its passage to the sea cleaves the southern ridge of the chalk
by a very striking ravine or dell, which, with the river, gives name to the
castle and the town, as well as to the Rape of Arundel, within which they
stand. The castle is placed upon a bold bluff of chalk, which rises on the
right or western bank of the river, here flowing in easy curves across a
broad tract of low and level land, which intervenes between the downs and
the sea, from which the castle is distant about four miles. Upon and at the
foot of the slope has sprung up the town, which for centuries paid
allegiance to the castle and received from it protection and support. Six
miles westward of the Arun is Bognor, rich in Roman remains, and as far to
the east is the mouth of the Adur, where Shoreham contests with
Portsmouth the representation of the ancient Portus Adurni. A few miles
north of the castle, Staneway marks the line of the old Roman road between
Chichester and London. Various villages, the names of which show their
English origin, are thickly posted along the lower course of the Arun; but
the name of the river may be British, as are no doubt the hill camps here
and there scattered over the downs. The Rape is supposed to be a Jutish
division. It includes five Hundreds, and was formerly nearly all forest. The
courts were held beneath an oak-tree at Madehurst.
The bluff occupied by the castle is the end of a ridge of high ground,
which is specially steep towards the east and south, and ascends to still
higher land towards the north and west. In this direction lies the park, which
covers about 1,100 acres, and includes, between two ridges of the chalk, a
deep valley, in the lower part of which, just below the castle, is the lake
called Swanbourne, the pool from a very remote period for the use of the
mill.
The history of Arundel has been written by Dallaway in his Western
Sussex, and by Tierney in a specific work. Whatever may be the value of
either production for the history and descent of the lordship, neither gives a
full plan of the earthworks of the castle, nor enters at all scientifically into
its details from either the military or architectural point of view.
Unfortunately, the proximity of the castle to Brighton and some lesser
watering-places has caused the exclusion of visitors, save under restrictions
so very narrow that it is impracticable to examine the works at all in detail.
It appears from Tierney’s history that the castle is protected towards the
north or open country by a double line of defence, composed of a bank and
by a very striking ravine or dell, which, with the river, gives name to the
castle and the town, as well as to the Rape of Arundel, within which they
stand. The castle is placed upon a bold bluff of chalk, which rises on the
right or western bank of the river, here flowing in easy curves across a
broad tract of low and level land, which intervenes between the downs and
the sea, from which the castle is distant about four miles. Upon and at the
foot of the slope has sprung up the town, which for centuries paid
allegiance to the castle and received from it protection and support. Six
miles westward of the Arun is Bognor, rich in Roman remains, and as far to
the east is the mouth of the Adur, where Shoreham contests with
Portsmouth the representation of the ancient Portus Adurni. A few miles
north of the castle, Staneway marks the line of the old Roman road between
Chichester and London. Various villages, the names of which show their
English origin, are thickly posted along the lower course of the Arun; but
the name of the river may be British, as are no doubt the hill camps here
and there scattered over the downs. The Rape is supposed to be a Jutish
division. It includes five Hundreds, and was formerly nearly all forest. The
courts were held beneath an oak-tree at Madehurst.
The bluff occupied by the castle is the end of a ridge of high ground,
which is specially steep towards the east and south, and ascends to still
higher land towards the north and west. In this direction lies the park, which
covers about 1,100 acres, and includes, between two ridges of the chalk, a
deep valley, in the lower part of which, just below the castle, is the lake
called Swanbourne, the pool from a very remote period for the use of the
mill.
The history of Arundel has been written by Dallaway in his Western
Sussex, and by Tierney in a specific work. Whatever may be the value of
either production for the history and descent of the lordship, neither gives a
full plan of the earthworks of the castle, nor enters at all scientifically into
its details from either the military or architectural point of view.
Unfortunately, the proximity of the castle to Brighton and some lesser
watering-places has caused the exclusion of visitors, save under restrictions
so very narrow that it is impracticable to examine the works at all in detail.
It appears from Tierney’s history that the castle is protected towards the
north or open country by a double line of defence, composed of a bank and
Page 218
ditch, of which the outer includes the present as well as the older park, and
is, in places, at least two miles from the castle. The inner line is of much
smaller extent, but the two seem intended to protect the town and the port,
as well as the site of the castle, and to be rather lines of defence than the
remains of a camp, whether British or English. Within both of these, and
probably of later date, are the earthworks upon a part of which the Norman
castle was founded. These resemble the works common to England with
Normandy, and may probably be attributed to the Northern invaders in the
eighth or ninth centuries. The high ground is occupied by an oblong
inclosure, of which more or less of the original earthbank remains, and
outside of which to the south and east was the natural steep, and to the west
a natural hollow, deepened and extended round the north front by art. The
inclosure is in length 317 yards, and in breadth 83 yards, and includes about
5½ acres. Near the centre of the western side, and forming a part of the
enceinte, is a large circular mound, almost wholly artificial, having its
proper ditch, which on the outer face is also the ditch of the general
enceinte. The mound is about 90 feet diameter at its table summit, and
about 230 feet at its base. As the ground rises towards the north, the height
is on that side about 50 feet, and on the opposite side about 70 feet from the
bottom of the ditch. The Windsor mound is about the same height, but
rather larger, being 125 feet across, at its summit. By its projection this
work materially narrows the main area, and with the addition of a short
cross-ditch, bank, and wall, now gone, divided it into an upper or northern
and lower or southern ward, in the latter of which are the domestic
buildings. These two wards were the parts of the earlier fortification taken
possession of by the builder of the Norman castle, but there is also an
inclosure opposite to the mound, and outside the ditch, which runs up to a
narrow end towards the north-west. Whether this was fortified with
masonry is uncertain, but it certainly was a part of the earlier fortress, and
shows its extent and importance. The ditches everywhere being in the chalk,
and at a high level, were no doubt always dry. Earl Roger, probably, found
along the crest of these earthbanks the same sort of defences that he left
behind him, on similar banks and mounds, at his paternal castle in
Normandy; but whether these were of timber or of masonry is uncertain.
They might very well have been of either. It is, however, certain that the
earl, or his immediate successors, inclosed the main area within a curtain of
masonry, which ran up the mound and placed half of it, as at Lincoln and
is, in places, at least two miles from the castle. The inner line is of much
smaller extent, but the two seem intended to protect the town and the port,
as well as the site of the castle, and to be rather lines of defence than the
remains of a camp, whether British or English. Within both of these, and
probably of later date, are the earthworks upon a part of which the Norman
castle was founded. These resemble the works common to England with
Normandy, and may probably be attributed to the Northern invaders in the
eighth or ninth centuries. The high ground is occupied by an oblong
inclosure, of which more or less of the original earthbank remains, and
outside of which to the south and east was the natural steep, and to the west
a natural hollow, deepened and extended round the north front by art. The
inclosure is in length 317 yards, and in breadth 83 yards, and includes about
5½ acres. Near the centre of the western side, and forming a part of the
enceinte, is a large circular mound, almost wholly artificial, having its
proper ditch, which on the outer face is also the ditch of the general
enceinte. The mound is about 90 feet diameter at its table summit, and
about 230 feet at its base. As the ground rises towards the north, the height
is on that side about 50 feet, and on the opposite side about 70 feet from the
bottom of the ditch. The Windsor mound is about the same height, but
rather larger, being 125 feet across, at its summit. By its projection this
work materially narrows the main area, and with the addition of a short
cross-ditch, bank, and wall, now gone, divided it into an upper or northern
and lower or southern ward, in the latter of which are the domestic
buildings. These two wards were the parts of the earlier fortification taken
possession of by the builder of the Norman castle, but there is also an
inclosure opposite to the mound, and outside the ditch, which runs up to a
narrow end towards the north-west. Whether this was fortified with
masonry is uncertain, but it certainly was a part of the earlier fortress, and
shows its extent and importance. The ditches everywhere being in the chalk,
and at a high level, were no doubt always dry. Earl Roger, probably, found
along the crest of these earthbanks the same sort of defences that he left
behind him, on similar banks and mounds, at his paternal castle in
Normandy; but whether these were of timber or of masonry is uncertain.
They might very well have been of either. It is, however, certain that the
earl, or his immediate successors, inclosed the main area within a curtain of
masonry, which ran up the mound and placed half of it, as at Lincoln and
Page 219
Tonbridge, outside the inclosure. Upon this curtain, a little south of the
mound, was placed the gatehouse, and along it at various points were mural
towers, probably square, of which one, on the curtain north of the mound,
and known as Bevis Tower, still remains, though more or less altered. The
domestic buildings were then, as now, along the sides of the lower ward,
and upon the mound was placed a shell keep.
As the public are only permitted to inspect the lower part of the
gatehouse, the adjacent curtain, and the interior of the keep, it is impossible
to form a correct opinion as to the extent of the original earthworks, or as to
the age of the general curtain, or the basement of the domestic buildings,
parts of which are said to be of Norman date. That the earthworks were
extensive, and in part remain, may be seen from the summit of the keep,
and from the upper gate of the park. Dallaway gives a large, but not quite
correct, plan of the keep and its mound, the gatehouse and Bevis Tower, and
the lower ward; but his plan does not include the higher ward nor the
earthworks, nor is it accompanied by any sections. Dallaway and Tierney
were not strong in architectural details.
The Gatehouse stands on the line of the curtain, projecting inwards from
it, and upon the southern edge or counterscarp of the ditch of the mound. It
opens into the lower ward. It is of the early Norman type, resembling that at
Tickhill. It is a square of 32 feet, having in the outer and inner faces a large
round-headed doorway, quite plain, without even a chamfer, and with a
plain sloped abacus. The chamber is, of course, square, and but little
broader than the doorways. That towards the ward seems to have been
closed by a pair of doors only. The other or outer doorway has a broad
portcullis groove, which may or may not be original; more probably not.
The covering—the floor of the upper room—was no doubt of timber, and
flat. The present vaulting is an insertion. There was always an upper floor,
but this has been much altered, chiefly in the Decorated period. The old
loops, now blocked, may be traced. Some of the inserted windows are very
late. In the south part of the inner doorway was a door opening into a mural
stair leading to the upper floor and to the rampart-walk of the curtain, which
seems to have been continued through the gatehouse, over the outer portal.
The present staircase is exterior, and modern. This is the whole of the
original gatehouse, which, with the adjacent and very thick curtain, is
probably the work of Earl Roger.
mound, was placed the gatehouse, and along it at various points were mural
towers, probably square, of which one, on the curtain north of the mound,
and known as Bevis Tower, still remains, though more or less altered. The
domestic buildings were then, as now, along the sides of the lower ward,
and upon the mound was placed a shell keep.
As the public are only permitted to inspect the lower part of the
gatehouse, the adjacent curtain, and the interior of the keep, it is impossible
to form a correct opinion as to the extent of the original earthworks, or as to
the age of the general curtain, or the basement of the domestic buildings,
parts of which are said to be of Norman date. That the earthworks were
extensive, and in part remain, may be seen from the summit of the keep,
and from the upper gate of the park. Dallaway gives a large, but not quite
correct, plan of the keep and its mound, the gatehouse and Bevis Tower, and
the lower ward; but his plan does not include the higher ward nor the
earthworks, nor is it accompanied by any sections. Dallaway and Tierney
were not strong in architectural details.
The Gatehouse stands on the line of the curtain, projecting inwards from
it, and upon the southern edge or counterscarp of the ditch of the mound. It
opens into the lower ward. It is of the early Norman type, resembling that at
Tickhill. It is a square of 32 feet, having in the outer and inner faces a large
round-headed doorway, quite plain, without even a chamfer, and with a
plain sloped abacus. The chamber is, of course, square, and but little
broader than the doorways. That towards the ward seems to have been
closed by a pair of doors only. The other or outer doorway has a broad
portcullis groove, which may or may not be original; more probably not.
The covering—the floor of the upper room—was no doubt of timber, and
flat. The present vaulting is an insertion. There was always an upper floor,
but this has been much altered, chiefly in the Decorated period. The old
loops, now blocked, may be traced. Some of the inserted windows are very
late. In the south part of the inner doorway was a door opening into a mural
stair leading to the upper floor and to the rampart-walk of the curtain, which
seems to have been continued through the gatehouse, over the outer portal.
The present staircase is exterior, and modern. This is the whole of the
original gatehouse, which, with the adjacent and very thick curtain, is
probably the work of Earl Roger.
Page 220
The gatehouse has been extended outwardly in the Decorated period.
There is appended to it a crooked passage about 10 feet broad and 40 feet
long, between thick lateral walls. In its sides are shoulder-headed doorways,
which led into lodges and cells, and on the south side is a well-staircase,
ascending to the roof. The passage is covered by a very flat-pointed vault. It
ends in an outer doorway having a drop arch, and opening between a pair of
flanking towers, 20 feet square, rising out of the ditch. These have sub-
basement chambers in the ditch, basements at the ground level, and two
upper floors. In the doorway is a very broad portcullis groove for a timber
frame, and in front was a drawbridge, now replaced by an arch of masonry.
This addition to the Norman gatehouse, making with it a very long covered
entrance-passage, is attributed to Earl Richard Fitz-Alan, on his return from
the wars of Edward I. In very modern times the floor of the passage has
been lowered about 3 feet, and the walls underpinned by a plinth. The doors
which are not in use have been left unaltered, and show the original level of
the sill. Probably the approach to this entrance lay through an outer gate to
the north-west, at the upper part of the town, and across the large outwork,
now a garden and a carpenter’s yard.
The Keep is a rounded shell of masonry, about 67 feet by 59 feet in the
internal cross diameter, and with walls, 8 feet to 10 feet thick, and 20 feet
high to the rampart-walk. It is built of rubble masonry, the material chiefly
Sussex stone and chalk, but faced outside with small ashlar blocks of Caen
stone, close jointed, and with flat pilasters which die into the wall below the
base of the parapet. The entrance was by a rather large full-centred doorway
to the south-east, probably reached, as at Tickhill and Lincoln, by a flight of
steps up the mound, with a timber bridge at their base, as at York. This
doorway is not shown to visitors, but Tierney’s drawing represents it as
having a bold chevron moulding alternating with rolls or rounds, common
to the head and the jambs, and unbroken by imposts. Within, it opened into
a recess, also full centred, and having its angle replaced by a bold roll. This,
as at Lincoln, was the original entrance, and it seems, though walled up, not
to have been otherwise altered. Near this doorway a well-stair has been
formed in the wall, ascending from the ground to the ramparts. It is
evidently a Decorated insertion, of the same date with a steep flight of steps
and a vaulted subterraneous chamber near the centre of the area, probably a
cellar belonging to the lodgings which, as at Windsor, were at one time built
against the wall all round, leaving a small open court, as at Tamworth and
There is appended to it a crooked passage about 10 feet broad and 40 feet
long, between thick lateral walls. In its sides are shoulder-headed doorways,
which led into lodges and cells, and on the south side is a well-staircase,
ascending to the roof. The passage is covered by a very flat-pointed vault. It
ends in an outer doorway having a drop arch, and opening between a pair of
flanking towers, 20 feet square, rising out of the ditch. These have sub-
basement chambers in the ditch, basements at the ground level, and two
upper floors. In the doorway is a very broad portcullis groove for a timber
frame, and in front was a drawbridge, now replaced by an arch of masonry.
This addition to the Norman gatehouse, making with it a very long covered
entrance-passage, is attributed to Earl Richard Fitz-Alan, on his return from
the wars of Edward I. In very modern times the floor of the passage has
been lowered about 3 feet, and the walls underpinned by a plinth. The doors
which are not in use have been left unaltered, and show the original level of
the sill. Probably the approach to this entrance lay through an outer gate to
the north-west, at the upper part of the town, and across the large outwork,
now a garden and a carpenter’s yard.
The Keep is a rounded shell of masonry, about 67 feet by 59 feet in the
internal cross diameter, and with walls, 8 feet to 10 feet thick, and 20 feet
high to the rampart-walk. It is built of rubble masonry, the material chiefly
Sussex stone and chalk, but faced outside with small ashlar blocks of Caen
stone, close jointed, and with flat pilasters which die into the wall below the
base of the parapet. The entrance was by a rather large full-centred doorway
to the south-east, probably reached, as at Tickhill and Lincoln, by a flight of
steps up the mound, with a timber bridge at their base, as at York. This
doorway is not shown to visitors, but Tierney’s drawing represents it as
having a bold chevron moulding alternating with rolls or rounds, common
to the head and the jambs, and unbroken by imposts. Within, it opened into
a recess, also full centred, and having its angle replaced by a bold roll. This,
as at Lincoln, was the original entrance, and it seems, though walled up, not
to have been otherwise altered. Near this doorway a well-stair has been
formed in the wall, ascending from the ground to the ramparts. It is
evidently a Decorated insertion, of the same date with a steep flight of steps
and a vaulted subterraneous chamber near the centre of the area, probably a
cellar belonging to the lodgings which, as at Windsor, were at one time built
against the wall all round, leaving a small open court, as at Tamworth and
Page 221
Ledes, in the centre. That there were here such lodgings is evident from the
roof corbels in the wall, and that they, as at York, had an upper floor, is
shown by a late fireplace, which marks the upper level, and the back of
which is formed of tiles set on edge. The parapet was about 8 feet high, and
crenellated, and in each merlon was a loop, set in an arched recess. In one
merlon is a small full-centred recess, evidently a garderobe. The present
parapet seems a Decorated addition. The keep stands, as does the mound,
on the line of the main curtain, which crosses the ditch from the gatehouse,
and ascends the mound, and has a similar continuation northwards. Where
the south curtain abuts upon the keep, there stands a broad irregular tower,
of about 20 feet in projection by 50 feet in breadth. This contains the well
and its chamber, the entrance from the curtain rampart, and an oratory. The
entrance is by a vaulted passage, with a portcullis groove at the ground
level of the keep. The curtain has a parapet on either face, forming a
covered way, and is commanded by a sort of balcony connected with the
keep. The well is of unusually large diameter, but not in use. The chamber
was at the surface level of the keep, into which it opened by a full-centred
doorway. There was also an upper chamber, now ruined. This position of
the well, on the outside of the keep, is found elsewhere. At Wallingford it is
on the slope, and at Cardiff nearly at the foot of it. The oratory, or chapel of
St. Martin, is a small chamber of irregular plan at the first-floor level, and is
placed over the entrance passage. It has a large east window, altered at two
periods, and two smaller lateral windows, all now closed up. The roof was
of timber, and is gone. This oratory had a special endowment, afterwards
shifted and expanded in favour of the large chapel in the lower ward. The
details of this appendage show that, as at York and Cardiff, it was an
addition to the original shell, the ashlar face of which is seen within one of
the lower chambers. At Cardiff the added tower was Perpendicular; at York,
where it included a small chapel, Early English. Here the addition seems
Early Decorated. The chapel is probably the St. Martin’s mentioned in
Domesday, and in the Patent Rolls of 1275, and was, of course, dismantled
when the endowment was shifted in 1375. The keep is mentioned at
different periods as Beaumont, Hautmont, and Grosmont, all names
preserving its chief characteristic.
As the English “Aula” was probably on this mound, while the ashlar
exterior of its present wall is unquestionably later than the Conquest, it has
been supposed that the heart of the wall is original, and that it was cased by
roof corbels in the wall, and that they, as at York, had an upper floor, is
shown by a late fireplace, which marks the upper level, and the back of
which is formed of tiles set on edge. The parapet was about 8 feet high, and
crenellated, and in each merlon was a loop, set in an arched recess. In one
merlon is a small full-centred recess, evidently a garderobe. The present
parapet seems a Decorated addition. The keep stands, as does the mound,
on the line of the main curtain, which crosses the ditch from the gatehouse,
and ascends the mound, and has a similar continuation northwards. Where
the south curtain abuts upon the keep, there stands a broad irregular tower,
of about 20 feet in projection by 50 feet in breadth. This contains the well
and its chamber, the entrance from the curtain rampart, and an oratory. The
entrance is by a vaulted passage, with a portcullis groove at the ground
level of the keep. The curtain has a parapet on either face, forming a
covered way, and is commanded by a sort of balcony connected with the
keep. The well is of unusually large diameter, but not in use. The chamber
was at the surface level of the keep, into which it opened by a full-centred
doorway. There was also an upper chamber, now ruined. This position of
the well, on the outside of the keep, is found elsewhere. At Wallingford it is
on the slope, and at Cardiff nearly at the foot of it. The oratory, or chapel of
St. Martin, is a small chamber of irregular plan at the first-floor level, and is
placed over the entrance passage. It has a large east window, altered at two
periods, and two smaller lateral windows, all now closed up. The roof was
of timber, and is gone. This oratory had a special endowment, afterwards
shifted and expanded in favour of the large chapel in the lower ward. The
details of this appendage show that, as at York and Cardiff, it was an
addition to the original shell, the ashlar face of which is seen within one of
the lower chambers. At Cardiff the added tower was Perpendicular; at York,
where it included a small chapel, Early English. Here the addition seems
Early Decorated. The chapel is probably the St. Martin’s mentioned in
Domesday, and in the Patent Rolls of 1275, and was, of course, dismantled
when the endowment was shifted in 1375. The keep is mentioned at
different periods as Beaumont, Hautmont, and Grosmont, all names
preserving its chief characteristic.
As the English “Aula” was probably on this mound, while the ashlar
exterior of its present wall is unquestionably later than the Conquest, it has
been supposed that the heart of the wall is original, and that it was cased by
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the Norman architect. Of such casing there is, however, no appearance. The
entrance from the curtain seems to have been cut through the wall, which
has been thought there to show traces of early masonry. The wall, however,
appears all of one date, and that probably late Norman, as is usual with shell
keeps.
Bevis Tower stands upon the curtain and projects from its outer face only.
It stands on the north counterscarp of the ditch of the mound, about 42
yards from the keep. It is square, and said to be, in substance, of the age of
the gatehouse, but it is not allowed to be seen close. It is called a barbican,
but its position scarcely justifies its having been so intended. It looks more
like an ordinary mural tower. There is no communication from the keep
with the curtain on this side. North of this tower the earthworks of the upper
ward seem tolerably perfect, but a request to be allowed to visit them was
evidently regarded as a sort of treason.
Besides the well attached to the keep was a second, now covered up, in
the middle of the lower ward. The habitable part of the castle is mostly or
entirely Howard work. Edward, the ninth duke, was a great builder. He
rebuilt Worksop, which was burned soon afterwards, in 1761, and he
founded Norfolk House in St. James’s Square. What he did here does not
appear. The present domestic buildings which line the lower ward to the
east, south, and west sides are, in substance, the work of Duke Charles
towards the close of the last century, or 1791–1806, and have since been
added to. They are what might be expected from the period, and better than
the rather earlier work at Alnwick, lately removed. It is said that in the
cellars, and built into the outer walls, are parts of the earlier structure, some
of Norman date. The hall stood on the east curtain. It had a good Early
English door, destroyed in the present century. The hall itself was ruined
during the siege of 1643. The present grand entrance to the ward, to the
south of the original one, is entirely modern, as are the approach to it and
the outer gateway. So also is the Chapel of St. George, which stands along
the west wall. The chapel which preceded it, and was taken down in 1796,
was 40 feet long by 22 feet broad, and was endowed by Richard, Earl of
Arundel, in 1375, with spoils derived from Crecy. The domestic buildings
are said to have been augmented at the same time by wealth from the same
source. The ecclesiastical endowment, shifted from the oratory of St. Martin
entrance from the curtain seems to have been cut through the wall, which
has been thought there to show traces of early masonry. The wall, however,
appears all of one date, and that probably late Norman, as is usual with shell
keeps.
Bevis Tower stands upon the curtain and projects from its outer face only.
It stands on the north counterscarp of the ditch of the mound, about 42
yards from the keep. It is square, and said to be, in substance, of the age of
the gatehouse, but it is not allowed to be seen close. It is called a barbican,
but its position scarcely justifies its having been so intended. It looks more
like an ordinary mural tower. There is no communication from the keep
with the curtain on this side. North of this tower the earthworks of the upper
ward seem tolerably perfect, but a request to be allowed to visit them was
evidently regarded as a sort of treason.
Besides the well attached to the keep was a second, now covered up, in
the middle of the lower ward. The habitable part of the castle is mostly or
entirely Howard work. Edward, the ninth duke, was a great builder. He
rebuilt Worksop, which was burned soon afterwards, in 1761, and he
founded Norfolk House in St. James’s Square. What he did here does not
appear. The present domestic buildings which line the lower ward to the
east, south, and west sides are, in substance, the work of Duke Charles
towards the close of the last century, or 1791–1806, and have since been
added to. They are what might be expected from the period, and better than
the rather earlier work at Alnwick, lately removed. It is said that in the
cellars, and built into the outer walls, are parts of the earlier structure, some
of Norman date. The hall stood on the east curtain. It had a good Early
English door, destroyed in the present century. The hall itself was ruined
during the siege of 1643. The present grand entrance to the ward, to the
south of the original one, is entirely modern, as are the approach to it and
the outer gateway. So also is the Chapel of St. George, which stands along
the west wall. The chapel which preceded it, and was taken down in 1796,
was 40 feet long by 22 feet broad, and was endowed by Richard, Earl of
Arundel, in 1375, with spoils derived from Crecy. The domestic buildings
are said to have been augmented at the same time by wealth from the same
source. The ecclesiastical endowment, shifted from the oratory of St. Martin
Page 223
to the Chapel of St. George in 1375, was, after about a century, again
shifted to the Fitz-Alan Collegiate Church, without the walls.
Arundel is a castle where, if anywhere, traces of English masonry earlier
than the Norman Conquest might be expected to be preserved, and no doubt
it is just possible that such may be found about the foundations of the
Norman walls. What is mainly remarkable about it is the resemblance to
Windsor in its general plan; the oblong inclosure encroached upon from one
side by the mound and its ditch, so as to divide it into two wards, in one of
which are domestic buildings. The older part of the gatehouse, and parts of
the curtain near it, may be regarded as Early Norman, the work probably of
Earl Roger. The keep seems later, though also Norman. The additions to the
gatehouse, the well-tower, and the oratory are probably Decorated. What is
wanted is a correct ground-plan, which should include the outworks and the
more distant earthworks. The older walls should be critically examined, and
especially the basement of the domestic buildings.
HISTORY.
The Manor of Arundel, with others in this immediate neighbourhood,
was given by Alfred, by will (885), to his brother’s son. It was held by
Harold, and afterwards by William, who about or before 1070 granted to
Roger de Montgomery the castle and honour of Arundel, with 84½ knights’
fees. Roger, who was of kin to the Conqueror, and commanded the Norman
centre at Hastings, became Earl of Arundel and Shrewsbury, and held the
Castle about twenty-three years, till his death. Domesday describes the
Castle of Harundel as having, in the time of King Edward, paid annually for
the mill, 40s.; for three “convivia,” or entertainments, 20s.; and “pro uno
pasticio,” or pasty, 20s. There was also the church of St. Nicholas, or the
parish church, and St. Martin’s, probably the chapel of the castle. There was
also another mill which paid ten bushels of corn. The burgh, port, and
shipping paid £12 or more.
It is curious that Arundel, Chichester, Shrewsbury, and the Norman
Manor whence Roger derived his territorial designation, each possessed a
mound. On William’s death in 1088, Earl Roger gave his support to Robert
Curthose, whom he invited to land at Arundel. The Prince’s sluggishness
alienated his English followers, and the Earl tendered his aid to Rufus. At
shifted to the Fitz-Alan Collegiate Church, without the walls.
Arundel is a castle where, if anywhere, traces of English masonry earlier
than the Norman Conquest might be expected to be preserved, and no doubt
it is just possible that such may be found about the foundations of the
Norman walls. What is mainly remarkable about it is the resemblance to
Windsor in its general plan; the oblong inclosure encroached upon from one
side by the mound and its ditch, so as to divide it into two wards, in one of
which are domestic buildings. The older part of the gatehouse, and parts of
the curtain near it, may be regarded as Early Norman, the work probably of
Earl Roger. The keep seems later, though also Norman. The additions to the
gatehouse, the well-tower, and the oratory are probably Decorated. What is
wanted is a correct ground-plan, which should include the outworks and the
more distant earthworks. The older walls should be critically examined, and
especially the basement of the domestic buildings.
HISTORY.
The Manor of Arundel, with others in this immediate neighbourhood,
was given by Alfred, by will (885), to his brother’s son. It was held by
Harold, and afterwards by William, who about or before 1070 granted to
Roger de Montgomery the castle and honour of Arundel, with 84½ knights’
fees. Roger, who was of kin to the Conqueror, and commanded the Norman
centre at Hastings, became Earl of Arundel and Shrewsbury, and held the
Castle about twenty-three years, till his death. Domesday describes the
Castle of Harundel as having, in the time of King Edward, paid annually for
the mill, 40s.; for three “convivia,” or entertainments, 20s.; and “pro uno
pasticio,” or pasty, 20s. There was also the church of St. Nicholas, or the
parish church, and St. Martin’s, probably the chapel of the castle. There was
also another mill which paid ten bushels of corn. The burgh, port, and
shipping paid £12 or more.
It is curious that Arundel, Chichester, Shrewsbury, and the Norman
Manor whence Roger derived his territorial designation, each possessed a
mound. On William’s death in 1088, Earl Roger gave his support to Robert
Curthose, whom he invited to land at Arundel. The Prince’s sluggishness
alienated his English followers, and the Earl tendered his aid to Rufus. At
Page 224
Earl Roger’s death, in 1094, he bequeathed his Sussex earldom, called also
“of Chichester,” to his younger son Hugh, the Hugh Goch of the Welsh,
who held both Arundel and Shrewsbury, stood in opposition to William
Rufus, and was slain while repelling pirates from the north Welsh coast in
1098. His successor in the English earldom was his eldest brother, who
already held the family lordships in Normandy. This was Robert, Earl of
Belesme in la Perche, who received at Arundel William Rufus on his arrival
from Normandy in 1097.
Earl Robert, the wicked son of a wicked mother, was a bold soldier, and
an able, though a very cruel man. He built with great rapidity the strong
castle of Brugge or Bridgenorth, and that of Montgomery, called by the
Welsh Tre-faldwin, from Baldwin, its early seneschal. His career in England
was violent and short. Bridgenorth was besieged and taken by Henry I.,
who brought the wooden turret known as a malvoisin to bear upon its walls.
The Earl went into exile in 1102, and died in 1118.
King Henry held Arundel till his death, when it passed in settlement to
his widow, Adeliza, daughter of Godfrey of Louvaine, Duke of Brabant.
The Queen Dowager married William d’Albini, a Norfolk noble, known to
chroniclers as “William with the strong hand,” the royal dapifer. They
received the Empress Maud at Arundel on her landing in 1139, with her
brother, the Earl of Gloucester, and in consequence had to stand an attack
from Stephen, to whom, it is said, Adeliza pleaded with success the duties
of hospitality, and Maud was allowed to retire to Bristol. D’Albini,
however, was, on the whole, a supporter of Stephen, though with great
judgment. He advised the accord between Stephen and Henry in 1153, and
signed the compact as “Earl of Chichester.” Henry, on his accession,
acknowledged the service by a grant of the earldom of Arundel in fee with
the third penny of the county of Sussex. Earl William died in 1176. By
Adeliza, who died in 1151, he left a son, also William, the first of four
generations of D’Albinis, and of five persons who held the earldom of
Arundel, or, as they called it, of Sussex. They were buried at Wymondham,
their own foundation. Earl Hugh, the eighth from the Conquest, died
childless in 1243. Isabel, his sister, carried on the succession, and married
John Fitz-Alan, whose son, on his uncle’s death, succeeded.
This John, head of the great house of Fitz-Alan, Lords of Clun and
Oswaldestre, became the ninth earl, and died 1240. He was the first of
“of Chichester,” to his younger son Hugh, the Hugh Goch of the Welsh,
who held both Arundel and Shrewsbury, stood in opposition to William
Rufus, and was slain while repelling pirates from the north Welsh coast in
1098. His successor in the English earldom was his eldest brother, who
already held the family lordships in Normandy. This was Robert, Earl of
Belesme in la Perche, who received at Arundel William Rufus on his arrival
from Normandy in 1097.
Earl Robert, the wicked son of a wicked mother, was a bold soldier, and
an able, though a very cruel man. He built with great rapidity the strong
castle of Brugge or Bridgenorth, and that of Montgomery, called by the
Welsh Tre-faldwin, from Baldwin, its early seneschal. His career in England
was violent and short. Bridgenorth was besieged and taken by Henry I.,
who brought the wooden turret known as a malvoisin to bear upon its walls.
The Earl went into exile in 1102, and died in 1118.
King Henry held Arundel till his death, when it passed in settlement to
his widow, Adeliza, daughter of Godfrey of Louvaine, Duke of Brabant.
The Queen Dowager married William d’Albini, a Norfolk noble, known to
chroniclers as “William with the strong hand,” the royal dapifer. They
received the Empress Maud at Arundel on her landing in 1139, with her
brother, the Earl of Gloucester, and in consequence had to stand an attack
from Stephen, to whom, it is said, Adeliza pleaded with success the duties
of hospitality, and Maud was allowed to retire to Bristol. D’Albini,
however, was, on the whole, a supporter of Stephen, though with great
judgment. He advised the accord between Stephen and Henry in 1153, and
signed the compact as “Earl of Chichester.” Henry, on his accession,
acknowledged the service by a grant of the earldom of Arundel in fee with
the third penny of the county of Sussex. Earl William died in 1176. By
Adeliza, who died in 1151, he left a son, also William, the first of four
generations of D’Albinis, and of five persons who held the earldom of
Arundel, or, as they called it, of Sussex. They were buried at Wymondham,
their own foundation. Earl Hugh, the eighth from the Conquest, died
childless in 1243. Isabel, his sister, carried on the succession, and married
John Fitz-Alan, whose son, on his uncle’s death, succeeded.
This John, head of the great house of Fitz-Alan, Lords of Clun and
Oswaldestre, became the ninth earl, and died 1240. He was the first of
Page 225
fourteen earls of the name who held the castle for twelve generations. Of
these, the elder line died out in the person of Thomas, fifteenth earl, who
died childless in 1415; but the succession was continued by his cousin,
Henry Fitz-Alan Lord Maltravers, who died 1580, leaving an heiress, Mary,
who married Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk. The later Fitz-Alans lived
much at Arundel, with which place they became closely identified.
Duchess Mary died 1557, and her husband in 1572. Their son, Philip,
became twenty-second earl, since when there have been in all ten
generations of Howards who have held the title of Arundel, the present
Duke of Norfolk being the thirty-fifth Norman earl, and the thirty-second
by descent from Queen Adeliza and William d’Albini.
The castle of Arundel has not played any very important part in English
history. Its most famous event is the siege of 1643, when it was besieged by
Sir William Waller, who first attacked and took the town, then defended by
walls, and finally battered the castle from the tower of the church, where he
posted his guns. The siege lasted from the 20th December, 1643, to the 6th
of January following, when the place surrendered, and with it the celebrated
Chillingworth, who died shortly after. The domestic buildings were then
ruined, and seem so to have remained until the last century.
The town was walled round by Richard Fitz-Alan, who had a licence for
that work in 1295. There were two gates, one below and on the river, the
other called St. Mary’s, at the top of the town. The town wall seems to have
abutted upon the castle, which thus formed a part of its defence.
The present duke has built just outside the castle, and not far from the
parish church, a large church dedicated to San Filippo Neri, a very noble
structure, and fitted up with great simplicity and excellent taste.
Unfortunately, it is so placed as to detract materially from the general aspect
of the castle from the plain below. Placed a little lower down, it would have
left the castle as the predominant figure, permitted the fine old parish
church to hold its due place, and have supported and elevated, instead of
somewhat oppressing, the whole group.
these, the elder line died out in the person of Thomas, fifteenth earl, who
died childless in 1415; but the succession was continued by his cousin,
Henry Fitz-Alan Lord Maltravers, who died 1580, leaving an heiress, Mary,
who married Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk. The later Fitz-Alans lived
much at Arundel, with which place they became closely identified.
Duchess Mary died 1557, and her husband in 1572. Their son, Philip,
became twenty-second earl, since when there have been in all ten
generations of Howards who have held the title of Arundel, the present
Duke of Norfolk being the thirty-fifth Norman earl, and the thirty-second
by descent from Queen Adeliza and William d’Albini.
The castle of Arundel has not played any very important part in English
history. Its most famous event is the siege of 1643, when it was besieged by
Sir William Waller, who first attacked and took the town, then defended by
walls, and finally battered the castle from the tower of the church, where he
posted his guns. The siege lasted from the 20th December, 1643, to the 6th
of January following, when the place surrendered, and with it the celebrated
Chillingworth, who died shortly after. The domestic buildings were then
ruined, and seem so to have remained until the last century.
The town was walled round by Richard Fitz-Alan, who had a licence for
that work in 1295. There were two gates, one below and on the river, the
other called St. Mary’s, at the top of the town. The town wall seems to have
abutted upon the castle, which thus formed a part of its defence.
The present duke has built just outside the castle, and not far from the
parish church, a large church dedicated to San Filippo Neri, a very noble
structure, and fitted up with great simplicity and excellent taste.
Unfortunately, it is so placed as to detract materially from the general aspect
of the castle from the plain below. Placed a little lower down, it would have
left the castle as the predominant figure, permitted the fine old parish
church to hold its due place, and have supported and elevated, instead of
somewhat oppressing, the whole group.
Page 226
THE CASTLE OF BARNARD CASTLE.
BARNARD, or Bernard’s, Castle, so called from its founder, Bernard de
Baliol, stands in a commanding position on the left bank of the Tees, here
the boundary between Durham and Yorkshire. It is a large castle, and was
long a very important one, both from its position on the frontier of the
bishopric, and from the power of the great barons who built and maintained
it.
The castle crowns the summit of a steep and in part precipitous shelf of
rock, which rises about 100 feet above the river, and has a projecting
shoulder, by means of which the north-western quarter of the fortress is
protected naturally by a cliff. The remainder of the area was covered by a
deep and broad artificial ditch, now mostly filled up, which intervened
between the east and north sides of the castle and the contiguous town, to
which it gave name, and the people of which, in the times when the castle
was maintained, looked to its lords for protection. The north front of both
town and castle received a further defence from the Percy beck, a stream
which flows into the Tees about 450 yards higher up.
The area of the castle, within the walls, is rather above 8 acres. In plan it
is oblong, having four unequal sides, averaging about 293 yards north and
south by 133 yards east and west. The east or town side, the longest, is
slightly convex, and measures 336 yards; the west, or that upon the river,
245 yards; the north end, 160 yards; and the south end, 110 yards. The Tees
Bridge springs from the rocky bank, below the centre of the western front,
and was commanded from the battlements.
The area is divided into four wards, of which the “outer” covers rather
more than its southern half, and the “town ward” about the eastern half of
the remainder. The other, or north-western quarter, is again subdivided
pretty equally into a “middle” ward, and a northern or “inner” ward. The
whole area and the several wards are protected, where necessary, by walls
and ditches. The curtain along the cliff seems to have been a mere parapet,
save where, as in the inner ward, it supported interior buildings. The walls
BARNARD, or Bernard’s, Castle, so called from its founder, Bernard de
Baliol, stands in a commanding position on the left bank of the Tees, here
the boundary between Durham and Yorkshire. It is a large castle, and was
long a very important one, both from its position on the frontier of the
bishopric, and from the power of the great barons who built and maintained
it.
The castle crowns the summit of a steep and in part precipitous shelf of
rock, which rises about 100 feet above the river, and has a projecting
shoulder, by means of which the north-western quarter of the fortress is
protected naturally by a cliff. The remainder of the area was covered by a
deep and broad artificial ditch, now mostly filled up, which intervened
between the east and north sides of the castle and the contiguous town, to
which it gave name, and the people of which, in the times when the castle
was maintained, looked to its lords for protection. The north front of both
town and castle received a further defence from the Percy beck, a stream
which flows into the Tees about 450 yards higher up.
The area of the castle, within the walls, is rather above 8 acres. In plan it
is oblong, having four unequal sides, averaging about 293 yards north and
south by 133 yards east and west. The east or town side, the longest, is
slightly convex, and measures 336 yards; the west, or that upon the river,
245 yards; the north end, 160 yards; and the south end, 110 yards. The Tees
Bridge springs from the rocky bank, below the centre of the western front,
and was commanded from the battlements.
The area is divided into four wards, of which the “outer” covers rather
more than its southern half, and the “town ward” about the eastern half of
the remainder. The other, or north-western quarter, is again subdivided
pretty equally into a “middle” ward, and a northern or “inner” ward. The
whole area and the several wards are protected, where necessary, by walls
and ditches. The curtain along the cliff seems to have been a mere parapet,
save where, as in the inner ward, it supported interior buildings. The walls
Page 227
generally vary up to 30 feet in height, and from 4 feet to 5 feet in thickness.
The outer ditch of the place, also the town ditch, commenced in a deep
ravine close north of the keep, and was carried along the north front,
skirting what are called “the Flats”; thence along the east front, between the
wall and the town, and thence round the south end, and so beneath a part of
the west front, until it is lost in the steep ground near the bridge, having
been altogether nearly 700 yards in length. From this ditch branched a
second, which traversed the place east and west, from the town ditch to the
river bank, and which, placed to the south of a cross-wall, was the defence
of the three northern wards from the outer ward.
Another ditch, commencing in the ravine below the keep, runs north and
south, and joined the preceding ditch, and thus protected the inner and
middle wards from the town ward. Finally, from this branched another and
still shorter ditch, which ran east and west into the river bank, and formed
the defence of the inner from the middle ward; so that each curtain had its
separate ditch. All the ditches are shown in Grose’s plan, but the town ditch,
though to be traced, has been filled up and built upon. The deepest and
broadest of the whole, and it is a formidable excavation, is that proper to the
inner ward, something of the elevation of which is due to the heaping up of
the contents of the ditch. These ditches seem all to have been dry. They are
traversed at their ends by the curtains, and in three places, where the north
curtain closes the end of the inner-ward ditch, and where the other end ran
out upon the river slope, and where the east curtain closes the great cross
ditch, are arched openings in the curtain at the level of the bottom of the
ditch. Grose also shows a fourth arch in the wall of the middle ward. These
were either drains or posterns. They are so nearly buried that only the tops
of some of them are seen. Grose calls them doors, and they may be so. They
seem original.
The enceinte of the outer ward seems to have been a mere buttressed and
embattled wall, of no very great strength. This ward could only have been
held by a very strong garrison. It was probably designed, like the Scottish
barmkin, to afford a refuge for the townfolk and their cattle, supposing the
town to be taken by an enemy. In the event of a serious siege it would
probably have been abandoned. Leland speaks of a fair chapel and two
chantries in the first area, with monuments said to be of the Baliols. They
were probably in this ward. There was a gate from the town in the east
The outer ditch of the place, also the town ditch, commenced in a deep
ravine close north of the keep, and was carried along the north front,
skirting what are called “the Flats”; thence along the east front, between the
wall and the town, and thence round the south end, and so beneath a part of
the west front, until it is lost in the steep ground near the bridge, having
been altogether nearly 700 yards in length. From this ditch branched a
second, which traversed the place east and west, from the town ditch to the
river bank, and which, placed to the south of a cross-wall, was the defence
of the three northern wards from the outer ward.
Another ditch, commencing in the ravine below the keep, runs north and
south, and joined the preceding ditch, and thus protected the inner and
middle wards from the town ward. Finally, from this branched another and
still shorter ditch, which ran east and west into the river bank, and formed
the defence of the inner from the middle ward; so that each curtain had its
separate ditch. All the ditches are shown in Grose’s plan, but the town ditch,
though to be traced, has been filled up and built upon. The deepest and
broadest of the whole, and it is a formidable excavation, is that proper to the
inner ward, something of the elevation of which is due to the heaping up of
the contents of the ditch. These ditches seem all to have been dry. They are
traversed at their ends by the curtains, and in three places, where the north
curtain closes the end of the inner-ward ditch, and where the other end ran
out upon the river slope, and where the east curtain closes the great cross
ditch, are arched openings in the curtain at the level of the bottom of the
ditch. Grose also shows a fourth arch in the wall of the middle ward. These
were either drains or posterns. They are so nearly buried that only the tops
of some of them are seen. Grose calls them doors, and they may be so. They
seem original.
The enceinte of the outer ward seems to have been a mere buttressed and
embattled wall, of no very great strength. This ward could only have been
held by a very strong garrison. It was probably designed, like the Scottish
barmkin, to afford a refuge for the townfolk and their cattle, supposing the
town to be taken by an enemy. In the event of a serious siege it would
probably have been abandoned. Leland speaks of a fair chapel and two
chantries in the first area, with monuments said to be of the Baliols. They
were probably in this ward. There was a gate from the town in the east
Page 228
front, opposite the market-place, probably at the present entrance, and an
inner gate, at the north-west corner, of which some traces remain, and
which led into the middle ward. The drawbridge of this gate is replaced by a
causeway of earth, closing the end of the ditch. The slight defence of this
outer ward is consistent with the stanzas in the old ballad of the “Rising of
the North”:—
“That Baron to his castle fled,
To Barnard Castle then fled hee.
The uttermost walles were eathe to win,
The Earles have won them presentlie.
The uttermost walles were lime and bricke;
But thoughe they wan them soon anone,
The innermost walles they could not win,
For they were cut in rocke of stone.”
The baron was Sir George Bowes, who held the castle for eleven days
against the Earls of Northumberland and Westmoreland in 1569, and then,
according to some accounts, capitulated on fair terms. Probably Percy beck
was then so named.
The town ward, occupying the north-east quarter of the area, much less
extensive than the outer ward, was more strongly fortified. Upon its east
curtain are the remains of a rectangular building, projecting inwards from
the wall, and known as Brackenbury’s Tower. There was also a square
tower at the north-east angle. On the north front is a half-round tower,
projecting from the wall, and serving to flank a large round-headed
doorway, evidently a main entrance from the north, independent of the
town. The arch of this portal is composed of three rings of voussoirs, each
chamfered, of excellent ashlar, but without ornament. The jambs are also
chamfered. They have a plain impost also chamfered, but with a sort of
bead-moulding underneath. There is no portcullis. This seems to have been
the middle or inner doorway of a regular rectangular gatehouse, the lines of
the side walls of which are indicated by toothings on each side of the door.
There are remains of similar lateral walls within. With the gatehouse, the
drawbridge is, of course, gone, and the ditch has been filled up.
inner gate, at the north-west corner, of which some traces remain, and
which led into the middle ward. The drawbridge of this gate is replaced by a
causeway of earth, closing the end of the ditch. The slight defence of this
outer ward is consistent with the stanzas in the old ballad of the “Rising of
the North”:—
“That Baron to his castle fled,
To Barnard Castle then fled hee.
The uttermost walles were eathe to win,
The Earles have won them presentlie.
The uttermost walles were lime and bricke;
But thoughe they wan them soon anone,
The innermost walles they could not win,
For they were cut in rocke of stone.”
The baron was Sir George Bowes, who held the castle for eleven days
against the Earls of Northumberland and Westmoreland in 1569, and then,
according to some accounts, capitulated on fair terms. Probably Percy beck
was then so named.
The town ward, occupying the north-east quarter of the area, much less
extensive than the outer ward, was more strongly fortified. Upon its east
curtain are the remains of a rectangular building, projecting inwards from
the wall, and known as Brackenbury’s Tower. There was also a square
tower at the north-east angle. On the north front is a half-round tower,
projecting from the wall, and serving to flank a large round-headed
doorway, evidently a main entrance from the north, independent of the
town. The arch of this portal is composed of three rings of voussoirs, each
chamfered, of excellent ashlar, but without ornament. The jambs are also
chamfered. They have a plain impost also chamfered, but with a sort of
bead-moulding underneath. There is no portcullis. This seems to have been
the middle or inner doorway of a regular rectangular gatehouse, the lines of
the side walls of which are indicated by toothings on each side of the door.
There are remains of similar lateral walls within. With the gatehouse, the
drawbridge is, of course, gone, and the ditch has been filled up.
Page 229
BARNARD CASTLE.
A. Inner Ward. C. Town Ward. F. Brackenbury’s Tower.
B. Middle Ward. D. Outer Ward. G. Round Tower.
E. North Gate.
West of this Norman gate, and standing on the counterscarp of the ditch
of the inner ward, opposite to the keep, a shoulder in the curtain is occupied
by a small rectangular tower, in substance Norman, whence the curtain, of
great height and strength, closing the north end of the ditch, runs up to the
keep. In its base, in the bottom of the ditch, is seen the upper part of one of
the round-headed openings already noticed. This is of 4 feet span, and more
like a postern than a drain.
The area of this town ward is occupied as a kitchen-garden, and part of it
is locked up, and entry refused. The curtains seem substantially Norman.
Grose shows the remains of a drawbridge between this and the middle
ward, and no doubt there must have been some such communication.
The middle ward seems to have contained stables and offices, now
destroyed. Its communication with the outer and town wards has been
mentioned. It had also a drawbridge, superseded by an earthen causeway, at
A. Inner Ward. C. Town Ward. F. Brackenbury’s Tower.
B. Middle Ward. D. Outer Ward. G. Round Tower.
E. North Gate.
West of this Norman gate, and standing on the counterscarp of the ditch
of the inner ward, opposite to the keep, a shoulder in the curtain is occupied
by a small rectangular tower, in substance Norman, whence the curtain, of
great height and strength, closing the north end of the ditch, runs up to the
keep. In its base, in the bottom of the ditch, is seen the upper part of one of
the round-headed openings already noticed. This is of 4 feet span, and more
like a postern than a drain.
The area of this town ward is occupied as a kitchen-garden, and part of it
is locked up, and entry refused. The curtains seem substantially Norman.
Grose shows the remains of a drawbridge between this and the middle
ward, and no doubt there must have been some such communication.
The middle ward seems to have contained stables and offices, now
destroyed. Its communication with the outer and town wards has been
mentioned. It had also a drawbridge, superseded by an earthen causeway, at
Page 230
its north-west corner, leading into the inner ward. It is difficult to say
whether the ditch was here run out upon the face of the cliff, and has since
been filled up, for a cottage has been built on the slope outside, and
effectually conceals the point for examination. Grose, however, indicates a
doorway in the ditch here, as at the other end, and in the cross-wall dividing
this from the town ward.
The inner ward is the most perfect and really curious part of the castle. It
is in level about 30 feet above the rest, commands the whole area, and
predominates grandly over the Tees. It contains the keep, northern tower,
the domestic buildings between them, the curtains and buttresses, and the
remains of the gatehouse. The keep caps the north-east angle, and is half
within and half without the curtain. It is a very grand piece of masonry,
built of blocks of coarse red grit of moderate size, square and coursed, with
rather open joints. It is circular, about 40 feet diameter, and about 50 feet
high to the base of the parapet, now gone. It rises from the rock. Its base for
about 6 feet batters slightly, but above that it is cylindrical. It is absolutely
without ornament, and there is not even the usual cordon to mark the top of
the base. The loops are of unusual length, and slightly dovetailed at the
lower end; never cruciform. The original openings are mostly square-
headed, and without mouldings or labels. One large window, high up,
towards the north, is round-headed, and probably original. Towards the
town ward is a five-light late Tudor window, an insertion. Probably the
parapet rested on bold corbels, but, if so, they are gone. There are no strut-
holes nor indications of a bretasche. Though circular above and towards the
field, the southern or interior face is capped by a bold spur, a pyramid cut
diagonally, with the apex dying into the round wall about four-fifths of the
way up. This spur contains a mural chamber. It is much shattered.
whether the ditch was here run out upon the face of the cliff, and has since
been filled up, for a cottage has been built on the slope outside, and
effectually conceals the point for examination. Grose, however, indicates a
doorway in the ditch here, as at the other end, and in the cross-wall dividing
this from the town ward.
The inner ward is the most perfect and really curious part of the castle. It
is in level about 30 feet above the rest, commands the whole area, and
predominates grandly over the Tees. It contains the keep, northern tower,
the domestic buildings between them, the curtains and buttresses, and the
remains of the gatehouse. The keep caps the north-east angle, and is half
within and half without the curtain. It is a very grand piece of masonry,
built of blocks of coarse red grit of moderate size, square and coursed, with
rather open joints. It is circular, about 40 feet diameter, and about 50 feet
high to the base of the parapet, now gone. It rises from the rock. Its base for
about 6 feet batters slightly, but above that it is cylindrical. It is absolutely
without ornament, and there is not even the usual cordon to mark the top of
the base. The loops are of unusual length, and slightly dovetailed at the
lower end; never cruciform. The original openings are mostly square-
headed, and without mouldings or labels. One large window, high up,
towards the north, is round-headed, and probably original. Towards the
town ward is a five-light late Tudor window, an insertion. Probably the
parapet rested on bold corbels, but, if so, they are gone. There are no strut-
holes nor indications of a bretasche. Though circular above and towards the
field, the southern or interior face is capped by a bold spur, a pyramid cut
diagonally, with the apex dying into the round wall about four-fifths of the
way up. This spur contains a mural chamber. It is much shattered.
Page 231
THE KEEP, BARNARD CASTLE.
The keep is cylindrical within, and has a basement and three upper floors.
All its original openings seem to have been either flat or round-headed.
There is no original pointed arch; that over the main door is clearly an
insertion. The basement is on the ground level, about 20 feet diameter, and
the walls about 10 feet thick, and it is covered in with a flattish dome of
inferior rubble, but probably original. On the south side are traces of a
fireplace, of which the vertical tunnel remains in the wall. The entrance-
door is on the west side, and so also is the main door. It is much broken, and
has at present a late flat-pointed arch, but it seems to have been round-
headed. It opened not, as now, from the court, but from the passage-room
leading to the postern. In the outer wall, a couple of yards to the right of the
The keep is cylindrical within, and has a basement and three upper floors.
All its original openings seem to have been either flat or round-headed.
There is no original pointed arch; that over the main door is clearly an
insertion. The basement is on the ground level, about 20 feet diameter, and
the walls about 10 feet thick, and it is covered in with a flattish dome of
inferior rubble, but probably original. On the south side are traces of a
fireplace, of which the vertical tunnel remains in the wall. The entrance-
door is on the west side, and so also is the main door. It is much broken, and
has at present a late flat-pointed arch, but it seems to have been round-
headed. It opened not, as now, from the court, but from the passage-room
leading to the postern. In the outer wall, a couple of yards to the right of the
Page 232
door, is a recess like a sepulchre in the keep wall, and in it is laid a stone
coffin, probably found in the outer ward. The recess may have been a seat;
it can scarcely have been a tomb. The entrance-door has no portcullis. In its
left jamb a flat-topped mural passage, 3 feet wide, leads into a garderobe
which projects outwards between the keep and the curtain, and has a short
exterior loop. The shaft of a garderobe in the floor above so drops that it is
evident that here, as at Corfe, there was a wooden partition within it.
Entering the keep, on the right a door leads up half a dozen steps into the
north side of what is called the guard-chamber, a barrel-vaulted room, 14
feet east and west, by 7 feet, with a loop to the south. This looks very much
like an oratory, though it is a passage-room. It is contained partly within the
spur buttress, and is evidently the cause of that appendage. From near the
west end of the chamber, a second door leads by a mural stair, 3 feet broad,
to the first floor, a circular chamber, 21 feet diameter, with walls about 8
feet 6 inches thick. This stair opens by a narrow, round-headed door in the
jamb of a doorway, also round-headed, which seems to have led from this
floor into the “great chamber,” the withdrawing-room of the hall. In the
opposite door jamb, a similar door leads by a mural passage to a garderobe
above that already mentioned.
The first floor was evidently the state-room. It has traces of a fireplace to
the south side, but the hood is gone, and opposite to it is a round-headed
window of 4 feet opening, looking up the Tees. Another window, probably
of the same pattern, looked towards the tower ward. This has been altered to
suit a Tudor five-light flat-topped window. This seems to have been called
“My Lady’s Chamber.”
In the left-hand jamb of the north window, now much broken, another
narrow door opens on a mural stair, 2 feet 6 inches broad, which, following
the curve of the wall, and lighted by small loops, led up to the battlements,
opening, on the way, upon the second floor, of which the floor and roof,
both of timber, are now gone. This floor also had a fireplace, and a sort of
magnified loop, which did duty as a door, and opened upon the battlements
of the hall, and led also to a third garderobe, corbelled out above the other
two. This has an open vent, while the shaft of the other two descends within
the wall to a sewer, the arched mouth of which is just visible at the foot of
the wall, outside.
coffin, probably found in the outer ward. The recess may have been a seat;
it can scarcely have been a tomb. The entrance-door has no portcullis. In its
left jamb a flat-topped mural passage, 3 feet wide, leads into a garderobe
which projects outwards between the keep and the curtain, and has a short
exterior loop. The shaft of a garderobe in the floor above so drops that it is
evident that here, as at Corfe, there was a wooden partition within it.
Entering the keep, on the right a door leads up half a dozen steps into the
north side of what is called the guard-chamber, a barrel-vaulted room, 14
feet east and west, by 7 feet, with a loop to the south. This looks very much
like an oratory, though it is a passage-room. It is contained partly within the
spur buttress, and is evidently the cause of that appendage. From near the
west end of the chamber, a second door leads by a mural stair, 3 feet broad,
to the first floor, a circular chamber, 21 feet diameter, with walls about 8
feet 6 inches thick. This stair opens by a narrow, round-headed door in the
jamb of a doorway, also round-headed, which seems to have led from this
floor into the “great chamber,” the withdrawing-room of the hall. In the
opposite door jamb, a similar door leads by a mural passage to a garderobe
above that already mentioned.
The first floor was evidently the state-room. It has traces of a fireplace to
the south side, but the hood is gone, and opposite to it is a round-headed
window of 4 feet opening, looking up the Tees. Another window, probably
of the same pattern, looked towards the tower ward. This has been altered to
suit a Tudor five-light flat-topped window. This seems to have been called
“My Lady’s Chamber.”
In the left-hand jamb of the north window, now much broken, another
narrow door opens on a mural stair, 2 feet 6 inches broad, which, following
the curve of the wall, and lighted by small loops, led up to the battlements,
opening, on the way, upon the second floor, of which the floor and roof,
both of timber, are now gone. This floor also had a fireplace, and a sort of
magnified loop, which did duty as a door, and opened upon the battlements
of the hall, and led also to a third garderobe, corbelled out above the other
two. This has an open vent, while the shaft of the other two descends within
the wall to a sewer, the arched mouth of which is just visible at the foot of
the wall, outside.
Page 233
There seems also to have been a square-headed opening in the stair, to
give a way to the top of the ward-curtain, of which the allure was 2 feet 6
inches wide, having a parapet of 3 feet, and a rerewall of 2 feet. As the
parapet of the keep is gone, the stair terminates abruptly at the level of the
rampart wall, where the wall is 7 feet 6 inches thick; and thence is a good
view of the castle and town, and of one of the most lovely reaches of the
Tees. In 1592 this keep was roofed with lead. The roof was probably always
flat.
Mortham Tower capped the north-west angle of the ward, rising from the
rock high above the river. It is a mere fragment. It seems to have been of
irregular plan, built to fit on to the hollow bend of an existing wall. When it
was built, it was thought prudent to strengthen the wall by stout exterior
buttresses. The original wall is Norman. The first built part of the tower
seems to have been Early English, and its completion Decorated.
The space between Mortham Tower and the keep was occupied by the
hall and withdrawing-rooms, the latter being next the keep. The hall was on
the first floor, as shown by its two windows in the curtain. These are of two
lights, with a transom and trefoiled heads, and an oval quatrefoil in the
head. They are placed in recesses with plain segmental arches, and side
seats of stone. They are of the best Decorated period, and evidently
insertions into an older wall, which has also been strengthened with
Decorated buttresses.
Between the hall and the keep were, on the ground-floor, passages
leading on the left to what was probably a cellar below the hall, and on the
right into the keep, while at its end is a small square-headed postern in the
curtain, still in use. Above this passage was the withdrawing-room, placed
between the hall and the state floor of the keep; and the window of this
room, in the curtain, is the well-known bay which displays in its soffit the
“bristly boar” of Richard III. The window is projected over the postern,
upon bold corbels and is mainly of good Perpendicular date, but the
superstructure has been altered and debased by some very poor Tudor work,
similar to the window in the keep, and possibly due to Sir George Bowes.
This was called “The Great Chamber” in 1592.
Its gatehouse occupied the south-west angle of this ward, and was built
on the edge of the cliff. The remains of it are very scanty. The curtain
give a way to the top of the ward-curtain, of which the allure was 2 feet 6
inches wide, having a parapet of 3 feet, and a rerewall of 2 feet. As the
parapet of the keep is gone, the stair terminates abruptly at the level of the
rampart wall, where the wall is 7 feet 6 inches thick; and thence is a good
view of the castle and town, and of one of the most lovely reaches of the
Tees. In 1592 this keep was roofed with lead. The roof was probably always
flat.
Mortham Tower capped the north-west angle of the ward, rising from the
rock high above the river. It is a mere fragment. It seems to have been of
irregular plan, built to fit on to the hollow bend of an existing wall. When it
was built, it was thought prudent to strengthen the wall by stout exterior
buttresses. The original wall is Norman. The first built part of the tower
seems to have been Early English, and its completion Decorated.
The space between Mortham Tower and the keep was occupied by the
hall and withdrawing-rooms, the latter being next the keep. The hall was on
the first floor, as shown by its two windows in the curtain. These are of two
lights, with a transom and trefoiled heads, and an oval quatrefoil in the
head. They are placed in recesses with plain segmental arches, and side
seats of stone. They are of the best Decorated period, and evidently
insertions into an older wall, which has also been strengthened with
Decorated buttresses.
Between the hall and the keep were, on the ground-floor, passages
leading on the left to what was probably a cellar below the hall, and on the
right into the keep, while at its end is a small square-headed postern in the
curtain, still in use. Above this passage was the withdrawing-room, placed
between the hall and the state floor of the keep; and the window of this
room, in the curtain, is the well-known bay which displays in its soffit the
“bristly boar” of Richard III. The window is projected over the postern,
upon bold corbels and is mainly of good Perpendicular date, but the
superstructure has been altered and debased by some very poor Tudor work,
similar to the window in the keep, and possibly due to Sir George Bowes.
This was called “The Great Chamber” in 1592.
Its gatehouse occupied the south-west angle of this ward, and was built
on the edge of the cliff. The remains of it are very scanty. The curtain
Page 234
between it and Mortham Tower seems to have been a mere parapet, cresting
the cliff.
The curved curtain connecting the gatehouse with the keep, and covering
the two landward faces of the ward, is tolerably perfect. It is strengthened
by an exterior buttress and a small tower. This latter, which is placed near
the angle of the curtain, towards the keep, contains a basement and upper
chamber, both vaulted, though of the latter, which was at the rampart level,
only some fragments remain. This tower is rectangular, but the angles are
chamfered off. It has no internal projection, and outside, against each of its
three faces, is applied a Decorated buttress of 2 feet 6 inches breadth, by 3
feet 6 inches projection at the base. Each is of three stages, and dies into the
wall near its summit. Between this tower and the keep is a large buttress,
apparently hollow, possibly for the pipe of a garderobe. This also is a
Decorated addition. Near it the curtain has a flat Norman pilaster strip, but
of three stages. It is 4 feet broad, and diminishes from 18 inches to 6 inches
projection. It also dies into the wall near the top.
It is not unlikely, from the aspect of the inner ward, that this was a
fortress of the tenth century, composed of a cliff on two sides, a ditch on the
other two, and a centre more or less nearly circular, and artificially scarped;
in fact, a motte, upon which stood the original stronghold. The outer ditches
may be of the same date, but from their figure and plan they are more likely
to have been a later, probably a Norman, addition. Their contents are
thrown inward so as to form a ramp behind the wall.
It is evident that the whole area of the castle, as it now stands, was
inclosed by the Normans, and the walls throughout and nearly all the towers
are latish in that style. Here and there, spread over the whole enceinte, are
remains of Norman work. The pilaster strips on the inner curtain, the arches
in the several ditches, the square tower and gate on the north curtain,
Brackenbury’s Tower, and much of the wall towards the town are original.
In the inner ward the base of Mortham Tower, and the half-round mural
tower near the north gate, are probably Early English. The keep, the
fragments of the hall, the south-east tower of the inner ward, and most of
the remains of other buildings are evidently Decorated. The original walls
were mostly of sound rubble, with ashlar dressings. In the Decorated work
ashlar was more freely used.
the cliff.
The curved curtain connecting the gatehouse with the keep, and covering
the two landward faces of the ward, is tolerably perfect. It is strengthened
by an exterior buttress and a small tower. This latter, which is placed near
the angle of the curtain, towards the keep, contains a basement and upper
chamber, both vaulted, though of the latter, which was at the rampart level,
only some fragments remain. This tower is rectangular, but the angles are
chamfered off. It has no internal projection, and outside, against each of its
three faces, is applied a Decorated buttress of 2 feet 6 inches breadth, by 3
feet 6 inches projection at the base. Each is of three stages, and dies into the
wall near its summit. Between this tower and the keep is a large buttress,
apparently hollow, possibly for the pipe of a garderobe. This also is a
Decorated addition. Near it the curtain has a flat Norman pilaster strip, but
of three stages. It is 4 feet broad, and diminishes from 18 inches to 6 inches
projection. It also dies into the wall near the top.
It is not unlikely, from the aspect of the inner ward, that this was a
fortress of the tenth century, composed of a cliff on two sides, a ditch on the
other two, and a centre more or less nearly circular, and artificially scarped;
in fact, a motte, upon which stood the original stronghold. The outer ditches
may be of the same date, but from their figure and plan they are more likely
to have been a later, probably a Norman, addition. Their contents are
thrown inward so as to form a ramp behind the wall.
It is evident that the whole area of the castle, as it now stands, was
inclosed by the Normans, and the walls throughout and nearly all the towers
are latish in that style. Here and there, spread over the whole enceinte, are
remains of Norman work. The pilaster strips on the inner curtain, the arches
in the several ditches, the square tower and gate on the north curtain,
Brackenbury’s Tower, and much of the wall towards the town are original.
In the inner ward the base of Mortham Tower, and the half-round mural
tower near the north gate, are probably Early English. The keep, the
fragments of the hall, the south-east tower of the inner ward, and most of
the remains of other buildings are evidently Decorated. The original walls
were mostly of sound rubble, with ashlar dressings. In the Decorated work
ashlar was more freely used.
Page 235
The castle must have undergone almost a rebuilding in the Decorated
period. The Norman architect evidently treated the whole inner ward as a
shell keep. His successors added part of Mortham Tower, and the Decorated
artist, more ambitious, raised the round tower as a keep, added—probably
rebuilding—the hall, and completed Mortham Tower, and strengthened or
restored the curtain in various places.
Here, as was much the practice in the North, the round-headed arch and
the flat lintel were largely employed in the Decorated period. The general
style of the work is much to be admired. Strong, sound, massive, very plain,
of excellent execution, it is in admirable taste, and in good keeping with a
military structure. The keep, though not one of the largest, is one of the
finest round towers in England. Its proportions are good, its materials of
proper size and rich colour, and its very plainness is indicative of strength.
There is but little Perpendicular work; probably it was of a lighter
character, and has fallen and been removed.
Whatever may be regarded as the value of the material evidence of its
earthworks, the notion of Bernard Castle occupying the site of an earlier
stronghold is unsupported by records. The present town is thought to have
risen on the fall of Marwood, a place the very site of which is now
forgotten; neither is it a parish, being included in the vast parish of
Gainford, the church of which is eight miles distant. From Domesday no aid
is to be derived, seeing that this valuable record does not include Durham,
nor is there any mention of either Marwood or Gainford, still less of the
castle, in Hugh Pudsey’s Domesday of Durham, the Boldon Book, compiled
in 1133, for this is confined to the bishopric, within which the Baliol fee
was not at that time included.
Guy de Baliol received from William Rufus the Barony of Bywell, in
Northumberland, and either from that king, or his father, the lordship of
Gainford, of which he gave the church to St. Mary’s, at York.
Bernard, his son and successor, was a distinguished adherent of Stephen,
but lived into the reign of Henry II., and was one of those who broke up the
siege of Alnwick, by the Scots, in 1174, before which time he probably built
Barnard Castle. He also seems to have built the church, or rather chapel, of
Barnard Castle town, and gave it also to St. Mary’s. He was succeeded by
another Bernard, father of Hugh, father of John de Baliol, founder of Baliol
period. The Norman architect evidently treated the whole inner ward as a
shell keep. His successors added part of Mortham Tower, and the Decorated
artist, more ambitious, raised the round tower as a keep, added—probably
rebuilding—the hall, and completed Mortham Tower, and strengthened or
restored the curtain in various places.
Here, as was much the practice in the North, the round-headed arch and
the flat lintel were largely employed in the Decorated period. The general
style of the work is much to be admired. Strong, sound, massive, very plain,
of excellent execution, it is in admirable taste, and in good keeping with a
military structure. The keep, though not one of the largest, is one of the
finest round towers in England. Its proportions are good, its materials of
proper size and rich colour, and its very plainness is indicative of strength.
There is but little Perpendicular work; probably it was of a lighter
character, and has fallen and been removed.
Whatever may be regarded as the value of the material evidence of its
earthworks, the notion of Bernard Castle occupying the site of an earlier
stronghold is unsupported by records. The present town is thought to have
risen on the fall of Marwood, a place the very site of which is now
forgotten; neither is it a parish, being included in the vast parish of
Gainford, the church of which is eight miles distant. From Domesday no aid
is to be derived, seeing that this valuable record does not include Durham,
nor is there any mention of either Marwood or Gainford, still less of the
castle, in Hugh Pudsey’s Domesday of Durham, the Boldon Book, compiled
in 1133, for this is confined to the bishopric, within which the Baliol fee
was not at that time included.
Guy de Baliol received from William Rufus the Barony of Bywell, in
Northumberland, and either from that king, or his father, the lordship of
Gainford, of which he gave the church to St. Mary’s, at York.
Bernard, his son and successor, was a distinguished adherent of Stephen,
but lived into the reign of Henry II., and was one of those who broke up the
siege of Alnwick, by the Scots, in 1174, before which time he probably built
Barnard Castle. He also seems to have built the church, or rather chapel, of
Barnard Castle town, and gave it also to St. Mary’s. He was succeeded by
another Bernard, father of Hugh, father of John de Baliol, founder of Baliol
Page 236
College, Oxford, and of St. John’s Hospital, in Barnard Castle town, and
regent of Scotland. He was born in the castle. He married Devorgoil, a co-
heir of Alan, Lord of Galloway, from whom their son, another John,
inherited the deadly claim to the throne of Scotland, which he made good,
after a fashion, in 1292. He lost his English estates, and died at Château-
Gaillard in 1314.
Edward, his son, became king of Scotland, 1332, but was expelled in
1341, and died childless in 1363.
On the attainder of John de Baliol, Bishop Bek claimed Barnard Castle,
probably unjustly, as belonging to the See. As early as 1301 he had seized
upon it, and he held it for some time, and to his tenure are attributed the
keep and other additions in the style prevailing at the period. Edward I.,
however, granted it to Guy Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who cared little
for episcopal claims, which took the form of protests from several
successive bishops.
The castle remained in the Earls of Warwick, Beauchamps and Nevilles,
for five descents, and here Thomas Beauchamp founded an Augustin Priory
about 1381. How it came to be held for a time by the Earls of Westmoreland
of the other line of the Nevilles does not appear. It finally, however, vested
in Richard Duke of Gloucester, who repaired it, and left his cognisance
upon it, as has been stated. On his death it remained in the Crown until it
was sold, and after various vicissitudes became the property of the ancestor
of the Duke of Cleveland. It was dismantled in 1630, when the spoil of the
great hall was carried to Raby.
The bridge across the Tees is a fine one, of two lofty pointed arches, said
to have been rebuilt in the last century. The arches are moulded in three
sets-off, and beneath, each arch is supported by five bold ribs. If modern,
the old type is well followed.
In the adjacent church there are some old parts. There is a good ornate
south door with flanking columns and capitals, round-headed, with a
chevron moulding on the arch. The opening is wider than usual. The style is
late Norman. The base of the tower is set round with several short Early
English buttresses. About 12 feet west of the tower, in the churchyard, are
laid several large blue gravestones of a quality not now used. They seem to
have carried brasses, are much worn, and have evidently been removed
regent of Scotland. He was born in the castle. He married Devorgoil, a co-
heir of Alan, Lord of Galloway, from whom their son, another John,
inherited the deadly claim to the throne of Scotland, which he made good,
after a fashion, in 1292. He lost his English estates, and died at Château-
Gaillard in 1314.
Edward, his son, became king of Scotland, 1332, but was expelled in
1341, and died childless in 1363.
On the attainder of John de Baliol, Bishop Bek claimed Barnard Castle,
probably unjustly, as belonging to the See. As early as 1301 he had seized
upon it, and he held it for some time, and to his tenure are attributed the
keep and other additions in the style prevailing at the period. Edward I.,
however, granted it to Guy Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who cared little
for episcopal claims, which took the form of protests from several
successive bishops.
The castle remained in the Earls of Warwick, Beauchamps and Nevilles,
for five descents, and here Thomas Beauchamp founded an Augustin Priory
about 1381. How it came to be held for a time by the Earls of Westmoreland
of the other line of the Nevilles does not appear. It finally, however, vested
in Richard Duke of Gloucester, who repaired it, and left his cognisance
upon it, as has been stated. On his death it remained in the Crown until it
was sold, and after various vicissitudes became the property of the ancestor
of the Duke of Cleveland. It was dismantled in 1630, when the spoil of the
great hall was carried to Raby.
The bridge across the Tees is a fine one, of two lofty pointed arches, said
to have been rebuilt in the last century. The arches are moulded in three
sets-off, and beneath, each arch is supported by five bold ribs. If modern,
the old type is well followed.
In the adjacent church there are some old parts. There is a good ornate
south door with flanking columns and capitals, round-headed, with a
chevron moulding on the arch. The opening is wider than usual. The style is
late Norman. The base of the tower is set round with several short Early
English buttresses. About 12 feet west of the tower, in the churchyard, are
laid several large blue gravestones of a quality not now used. They seem to
have carried brasses, are much worn, and have evidently been removed
Page 237
from the interior of this church or the castle chapel. Under one, on which
remains a merchant’s mark, is buried Sir John Hullock, a Baron of the
Exchequer, who died July 31st, 1829, and his wife, who died November
18th, 1852.
remains a merchant’s mark, is buried Sir John Hullock, a Baron of the
Exchequer, who died July 31st, 1829, and his wife, who died November
18th, 1852.
Page 238
BEAUMARIS CASTLE, IN ANGLESEY.
BEAUMARIS Castle is built upon a marshy flat, close to the sea-shore, and
but little above the level of the sea, from which its ditch was supplied. It is
an example of a purely concentric fortress, in which the engineer was left
free to design his works without being governed, as in most other cases, by
the irregularities of the ground.
Ground Plan.
Beaumaris Castle.
Its inner ward is a quadrangle about 50 yards square, contained within
four curtain-walls about 16 feet thick and 40 to 50 feet high. At the angles
BEAUMARIS Castle is built upon a marshy flat, close to the sea-shore, and
but little above the level of the sea, from which its ditch was supplied. It is
an example of a purely concentric fortress, in which the engineer was left
free to design his works without being governed, as in most other cases, by
the irregularities of the ground.
Ground Plan.
Beaumaris Castle.
Its inner ward is a quadrangle about 50 yards square, contained within
four curtain-walls about 16 feet thick and 40 to 50 feet high. At the angles
Page 239
are four drum-towers, three-quarters engaged, of the height of the curtains.
On the east and west sides are intermediate towers, half-round, with
prolonged sides, of which that to the east, as at Kidwelly, contains the
chapel. In the centre of the north and south sides are the gatehouses, of large
size and something higher than the other towers. In each a quadrangular
part projects into the court, capped at the two angles by round turrets
containing staircases. Outside, half-round towers with prolonged sides flank
the entrance. The ground-plan here given shows the general arrangement.
C. A. Buckler.
Entrance to Beaumaris Castle.
BEAUMARIS CASTLE: ANGLESEY:
On the east and west sides are intermediate towers, half-round, with
prolonged sides, of which that to the east, as at Kidwelly, contains the
chapel. In the centre of the north and south sides are the gatehouses, of large
size and something higher than the other towers. In each a quadrangular
part projects into the court, capped at the two angles by round turrets
containing staircases. Outside, half-round towers with prolonged sides flank
the entrance. The ground-plan here given shows the general arrangement.
C. A. Buckler.
Entrance to Beaumaris Castle.
BEAUMARIS CASTLE: ANGLESEY:
Page 240
The great hall, 70 feet by 23 feet 6 inches, occupies most of the first floor
of the northern gatehouse, and is lighted from the court by five windows, of
two lights each, with a transom, as at Stokesley and Ludlow, contemporary
halls. The fireplace was on the opposite side. The roof was of timber, but
with one stone rib, as at Charing. The southern gatehouse probably also
contained a large chamber, now destroyed. The state-rooms and lodgings
were in the gatehouses. The portals were of unusual length, and each was
guarded by three grates.
The curtains are pierced lengthways by long mural passages,
communicating with the tower chambers and the staircases, of which there
are many. The rampart walk is of unusual breadth. Under a part of the wall,
south of the chapel, the lowest mural gallery is a large sewer.
The chapel, on the first floor, though not much above the ground level, is
a beautiful little chamber, entered at its west end from the court by a flight
of steps and a short passage traversing the mural gallery. On each side is a
vestry. The actual entrance to the chapel is by a double door, trefoiled. The
chapel is composed of two bays with a polygonal apse. The whole is
groined, and the walls are panelled in two stages all round. There are five
lancet loops opening upon the face of the tower, and two windows opening
into the chapel, from the vestries. The chapel stands on a crypt, also
vaulted.
Outside the south gatehouse a sort of barbican, a hollow square of
masonry, has been erected, having an entrance on its west side. It is an
addition intended to prevent the portal being raked or carried with a rush.
The ward above described stands detached within the outer ward. This is
in figure eight-sided, symmetrical, or nearly so. At its four principal angles,
opposite the angles of the inner ward, are four drum-towers, three-quarters
engaged. From these towers the walls slope outwards, so as to form salient
angles, of which there are thus four, one opposite to the centre of each face
of the inner ward, and thus space is given for the gatehouses, the chapel,
and its opposite tower. Each salient is capped by a drum-tower, and on each
of the sides forming the salient is a smaller tower. There are altogether
twelve towers, three of the spaces and one angle being otherwise occupied.
These outer towers and curtains are much lower and slighter than those of
the inner ward.
of the northern gatehouse, and is lighted from the court by five windows, of
two lights each, with a transom, as at Stokesley and Ludlow, contemporary
halls. The fireplace was on the opposite side. The roof was of timber, but
with one stone rib, as at Charing. The southern gatehouse probably also
contained a large chamber, now destroyed. The state-rooms and lodgings
were in the gatehouses. The portals were of unusual length, and each was
guarded by three grates.
The curtains are pierced lengthways by long mural passages,
communicating with the tower chambers and the staircases, of which there
are many. The rampart walk is of unusual breadth. Under a part of the wall,
south of the chapel, the lowest mural gallery is a large sewer.
The chapel, on the first floor, though not much above the ground level, is
a beautiful little chamber, entered at its west end from the court by a flight
of steps and a short passage traversing the mural gallery. On each side is a
vestry. The actual entrance to the chapel is by a double door, trefoiled. The
chapel is composed of two bays with a polygonal apse. The whole is
groined, and the walls are panelled in two stages all round. There are five
lancet loops opening upon the face of the tower, and two windows opening
into the chapel, from the vestries. The chapel stands on a crypt, also
vaulted.
Outside the south gatehouse a sort of barbican, a hollow square of
masonry, has been erected, having an entrance on its west side. It is an
addition intended to prevent the portal being raked or carried with a rush.
The ward above described stands detached within the outer ward. This is
in figure eight-sided, symmetrical, or nearly so. At its four principal angles,
opposite the angles of the inner ward, are four drum-towers, three-quarters
engaged. From these towers the walls slope outwards, so as to form salient
angles, of which there are thus four, one opposite to the centre of each face
of the inner ward, and thus space is given for the gatehouses, the chapel,
and its opposite tower. Each salient is capped by a drum-tower, and on each
of the sides forming the salient is a smaller tower. There are altogether
twelve towers, three of the spaces and one angle being otherwise occupied.
These outer towers and curtains are much lower and slighter than those of
the inner ward.
Page 241
There are two gates. The north gate seems never to have been completed,
but its remains are very peculiar. There is a main portal in the curtain, and
on each side of it a small portal or postern. Outside are four bold but narrow
buttresses, one on each side of the main gate, and one outside each of the
side gates. The western buttress is of bolder projection than the rest, and is
evidently intended to cover and conceal a sally from the quarter whence the
Welsh were most likely to approach. Each buttress is looped, the two inner
ones so as to command the main from the side entrances. The southern
entrance is also peculiar, and has a gatehouse and outwork of its own. The
gatehouse, shown in the drawing here given, has two towers on
quadrangular bases, corbelled out so as to rise to drum summits, producing
a fine effect. This outer gate opens upon the sea-shore. Behind, or to its
west, was the walled tower. Towards the east it was protected by a spur-
work; a long curtain wall, running on from the exterior wall of the castle to
the sea-shore, of great thickness, and pierced by a long gallery below, and
having above a rampart walk, parapeted on each face. The passage is looped
each way and strengthened by a half-round tower on its west face. It seems
to have ended in a round tower, now removed. The object of this work was
to cover the landing of supplies from the sea, and to prevent an enemy from
the east side from creeping round by the sea-shore and so surprising either
the castle or the town. The spur has been pierced by a modern archway.
The birdseye view given shows the castle from its south-eastern angle.
The root of the spur-work is shown, the outside of the chapel tower with its
lancet windows, and the windows of the great hall. There was but one ditch,
which embraced the whole structure, and is now filled up.
Beaumaris was probably commenced about 1295, twelve years after the
execution of Prince David, and later than Conway, Caernarvon, and
Harlech. On the subjugation of Wales it ceased to be of importance, and
even in the reign of Edward II. it was out of repair.
but its remains are very peculiar. There is a main portal in the curtain, and
on each side of it a small portal or postern. Outside are four bold but narrow
buttresses, one on each side of the main gate, and one outside each of the
side gates. The western buttress is of bolder projection than the rest, and is
evidently intended to cover and conceal a sally from the quarter whence the
Welsh were most likely to approach. Each buttress is looped, the two inner
ones so as to command the main from the side entrances. The southern
entrance is also peculiar, and has a gatehouse and outwork of its own. The
gatehouse, shown in the drawing here given, has two towers on
quadrangular bases, corbelled out so as to rise to drum summits, producing
a fine effect. This outer gate opens upon the sea-shore. Behind, or to its
west, was the walled tower. Towards the east it was protected by a spur-
work; a long curtain wall, running on from the exterior wall of the castle to
the sea-shore, of great thickness, and pierced by a long gallery below, and
having above a rampart walk, parapeted on each face. The passage is looped
each way and strengthened by a half-round tower on its west face. It seems
to have ended in a round tower, now removed. The object of this work was
to cover the landing of supplies from the sea, and to prevent an enemy from
the east side from creeping round by the sea-shore and so surprising either
the castle or the town. The spur has been pierced by a modern archway.
The birdseye view given shows the castle from its south-eastern angle.
The root of the spur-work is shown, the outside of the chapel tower with its
lancet windows, and the windows of the great hall. There was but one ditch,
which embraced the whole structure, and is now filled up.
Beaumaris was probably commenced about 1295, twelve years after the
execution of Prince David, and later than Conway, Caernarvon, and
Harlech. On the subjugation of Wales it ceased to be of importance, and
even in the reign of Edward II. it was out of repair.
Page 242
BEDFORD CASTLE.
ON the left bank of the Ouse, about 50 yards from the stream, within, but
upon the eastern edge of, the town, is to be found all that remains of the
once-celebrated and very strong castle of Bedford. These remains, though
scanty and confined, or nearly so, to earthworks, are very marked and of a
durable character, and, although the fame of the castle rests upon its
adventures as a Norman fortress, there is reason to suppose that it had an
earlier history, and that most of its present relics belong to that earlier and
Saxon period.
The principal work is a motte or mound of earth, wholly artificial, placed
upon the gravelly plain across which the Ouse winds its way down the
broad band of the middle oolite. This mound is circular, now about 15 feet
high and 150 feet in diameter at its summit, which is perfectly level, and
has for above half a century been employed as a bowling-green. The slopes
are uniform and moderately steep, and planted with trees and shrubs. On the
north side, or that farthest from the river, an excavation has been made for
an ice-house; but this is of modern date, and does not appear to have laid
open any traces of masonry below the surface of the ground.
Towards the river, and westwards towards the town bridge about a
furlong above the castle, the ground is perfectly flat, and under cultivation
as a garden; but, on the north and north-east it is rather higher, and here are
traces of a ditch at the foot of, and concentric with, the mound, and no
doubt a part of its defence upon this its weaker side.
The only masonry that can possibly be old is a small rectangular mass on
the south side of the mound, and which now carries a modern summer-
house. The ragstone of the country, of which this fragment is comprised,
weathers so rapidly that it is difficult to form an opinion upon its age; but,
though possibly old, it may be of recent date.
Looking to the position of the mound as regards the river, and to the low
and flat character of the ground about it, it is evident that the great strength
of the place must have been derived from the Ouse, here deep and broad,
ON the left bank of the Ouse, about 50 yards from the stream, within, but
upon the eastern edge of, the town, is to be found all that remains of the
once-celebrated and very strong castle of Bedford. These remains, though
scanty and confined, or nearly so, to earthworks, are very marked and of a
durable character, and, although the fame of the castle rests upon its
adventures as a Norman fortress, there is reason to suppose that it had an
earlier history, and that most of its present relics belong to that earlier and
Saxon period.
The principal work is a motte or mound of earth, wholly artificial, placed
upon the gravelly plain across which the Ouse winds its way down the
broad band of the middle oolite. This mound is circular, now about 15 feet
high and 150 feet in diameter at its summit, which is perfectly level, and
has for above half a century been employed as a bowling-green. The slopes
are uniform and moderately steep, and planted with trees and shrubs. On the
north side, or that farthest from the river, an excavation has been made for
an ice-house; but this is of modern date, and does not appear to have laid
open any traces of masonry below the surface of the ground.
Towards the river, and westwards towards the town bridge about a
furlong above the castle, the ground is perfectly flat, and under cultivation
as a garden; but, on the north and north-east it is rather higher, and here are
traces of a ditch at the foot of, and concentric with, the mound, and no
doubt a part of its defence upon this its weaker side.
The only masonry that can possibly be old is a small rectangular mass on
the south side of the mound, and which now carries a modern summer-
house. The ragstone of the country, of which this fragment is comprised,
weathers so rapidly that it is difficult to form an opinion upon its age; but,
though possibly old, it may be of recent date.
Looking to the position of the mound as regards the river, and to the low
and flat character of the ground about it, it is evident that the great strength
of the place must have been derived from the Ouse, here deep and broad,
Page 243
and from banks of earth and ditches filled from and communicating with
the river. The entire absence of masonry and the disappearance of all but a
trace of the surrounding banks and ditches, commemorated in the
Chronicles as once so high and deep, are fully accounted for by the
circumstances recorded of the famous siege by Henry III.
Bedicanford, or Bedford, was well known to the Saxons, and a town
probably of Saxon origin. Here, just outside the town, was buried in 796 the
Saxon Offa, king of Mercia, in a chapel long since swept away by the flood
waters of the Ouse. Early in the tenth century the town was attacked by a
party of Danish settlers from the five burghs, who were beaten off by the
townspeople, and shortly afterwards Edward the elder repaired the place,
and erected what some call the suburb of Mikesgate, and some a strong
place, on the southern side of the river, possibly a cover for the “ford,”
which contributed towards the name of the town. Bedford was, without
doubt, an important town under the Saxons, and, as at Tamworth, Leicester,
Wareham, and Wallingford, had a citadel at one angle of the enclosure,
upon the river.
The Barony, also called the Honour, of Bedford, was conferred by
William Rufus upon Payn, second son, but eventual heir of Hugh
Beauchamp, a companion of the Conqueror, and possibly allied to the
greater family of that name, who afterwards held the earldom of Warwick.
Hugh was the recipient of many manors in Buckingham, and about twenty
in Bedfordshire. Payn is the reputed builder of the Norman castle, described
as of great strength, with ditches and ramparts of earth, and which
descended to his son Simon, steward to King Stephen. The family, however,
afterwards took part against the king, who seems to have attempted to settle
the fief upon the daughter of the eldest brother, married to Hugh, surnamed
“Pauper,” brother to the Earl of Leicester. Milo de Beauchamp held the
castle against King Stephen in 1137. The siege lasted five weeks, and was
pressed with great energy. It was finally taken by starvation. The author of
the “Gesta Stephani” describes the castle as having strong earthworks,
“editissimo aggere vallatum.”
Simon de Beauchamp held the castle through the reigns of Henry II. and
Richard I., until his death, about the 8th of John. It appears from the red
book of the Exchequer that he held 36 and 5–10ths knight fees of the old
feoffment, and 8 fees of the new, all in the barony of Bedford. In his time
the river. The entire absence of masonry and the disappearance of all but a
trace of the surrounding banks and ditches, commemorated in the
Chronicles as once so high and deep, are fully accounted for by the
circumstances recorded of the famous siege by Henry III.
Bedicanford, or Bedford, was well known to the Saxons, and a town
probably of Saxon origin. Here, just outside the town, was buried in 796 the
Saxon Offa, king of Mercia, in a chapel long since swept away by the flood
waters of the Ouse. Early in the tenth century the town was attacked by a
party of Danish settlers from the five burghs, who were beaten off by the
townspeople, and shortly afterwards Edward the elder repaired the place,
and erected what some call the suburb of Mikesgate, and some a strong
place, on the southern side of the river, possibly a cover for the “ford,”
which contributed towards the name of the town. Bedford was, without
doubt, an important town under the Saxons, and, as at Tamworth, Leicester,
Wareham, and Wallingford, had a citadel at one angle of the enclosure,
upon the river.
The Barony, also called the Honour, of Bedford, was conferred by
William Rufus upon Payn, second son, but eventual heir of Hugh
Beauchamp, a companion of the Conqueror, and possibly allied to the
greater family of that name, who afterwards held the earldom of Warwick.
Hugh was the recipient of many manors in Buckingham, and about twenty
in Bedfordshire. Payn is the reputed builder of the Norman castle, described
as of great strength, with ditches and ramparts of earth, and which
descended to his son Simon, steward to King Stephen. The family, however,
afterwards took part against the king, who seems to have attempted to settle
the fief upon the daughter of the eldest brother, married to Hugh, surnamed
“Pauper,” brother to the Earl of Leicester. Milo de Beauchamp held the
castle against King Stephen in 1137. The siege lasted five weeks, and was
pressed with great energy. It was finally taken by starvation. The author of
the “Gesta Stephani” describes the castle as having strong earthworks,
“editissimo aggere vallatum.”
Simon de Beauchamp held the castle through the reigns of Henry II. and
Richard I., until his death, about the 8th of John. It appears from the red
book of the Exchequer that he held 36 and 5–10ths knight fees of the old
feoffment, and 8 fees of the new, all in the barony of Bedford. In his time
Page 244
the castle seems to have been held against Henry II. since in the second year
of that king, 1155–6, those burgesses of Bedford who were in the castle
against the king were fined twenty marks, of which sum they rendered
account in 1157–8. In 1190 Simon fined £100 for the governorship of the
castle.
William, son and successor of Simon, is described as lord of the strong
castle of Bedford, the “caput” of the Honour. He took part with the rebel
barons towards the close of John’s reign, and in 1215 admitted their forces
into his castle. In consequence it was attacked by the well-known Falk de
Breauté, and, not being relieved, was surrendered in November, after a
seven days’ siege. John was himself present at Bedford thrice in that year, in
all for eight days. He granted the confiscated Honour to Falk.
Falk strengthened and held the castle into the reign of Henry III., and
thence ravaged the country below the Chilterns. At first a supporter of the
young king, he afterwards resisted his authority, and, at the instance of his
oppressed neighbours, Henry de Braibroc was sent to Dunstable in 8th
Henry III., 1224, to try their complaints, when thirty verdicts were found
against the baron, and fines imposed of £100 under each of them. In
revenge, Falk kidnapped the judge and lodged him a prisoner in Bedford
Castle, treating him with much indignity. His wife complained to the
Parliament then at Northampton, and the king ordered him to give up the
judge, but in vain. Henry was probably glad of the opportunity of crushing a
very turbulent subject, and appears to have lost no time in punishing the
affront. In June, 1224, commenced a series of orders, issued by the king
himself, and which show the greatness of his preparations for a siege, and
the vigour with which he pushed them forward. On the 22nd of June, Henry
was at Bedford in person, and there remained during the siege until the 19th
of August, nearly two months. The preparations were both extensive and
minute, and the mandates, always described as pressing, were issued to a
vast number of sheriffs and other persons as far south and west as Corfe
Castle and St. Briavels. They require men, money, arrears of scutage, cord,
cable, iron, steel, hides, leather for slings, twine for strings, mangonels,
petraries, balistæ, quarrells, stone shot, quarrymen, masons, miners,
carpenters, saddlers, wagons for conveying the royal pavilions, and
almonds, spice, and ginger for the royal still-room. All the smiths in
Northampton who can forge quarrell bolts, or feather them when forged, are
of that king, 1155–6, those burgesses of Bedford who were in the castle
against the king were fined twenty marks, of which sum they rendered
account in 1157–8. In 1190 Simon fined £100 for the governorship of the
castle.
William, son and successor of Simon, is described as lord of the strong
castle of Bedford, the “caput” of the Honour. He took part with the rebel
barons towards the close of John’s reign, and in 1215 admitted their forces
into his castle. In consequence it was attacked by the well-known Falk de
Breauté, and, not being relieved, was surrendered in November, after a
seven days’ siege. John was himself present at Bedford thrice in that year, in
all for eight days. He granted the confiscated Honour to Falk.
Falk strengthened and held the castle into the reign of Henry III., and
thence ravaged the country below the Chilterns. At first a supporter of the
young king, he afterwards resisted his authority, and, at the instance of his
oppressed neighbours, Henry de Braibroc was sent to Dunstable in 8th
Henry III., 1224, to try their complaints, when thirty verdicts were found
against the baron, and fines imposed of £100 under each of them. In
revenge, Falk kidnapped the judge and lodged him a prisoner in Bedford
Castle, treating him with much indignity. His wife complained to the
Parliament then at Northampton, and the king ordered him to give up the
judge, but in vain. Henry was probably glad of the opportunity of crushing a
very turbulent subject, and appears to have lost no time in punishing the
affront. In June, 1224, commenced a series of orders, issued by the king
himself, and which show the greatness of his preparations for a siege, and
the vigour with which he pushed them forward. On the 22nd of June, Henry
was at Bedford in person, and there remained during the siege until the 19th
of August, nearly two months. The preparations were both extensive and
minute, and the mandates, always described as pressing, were issued to a
vast number of sheriffs and other persons as far south and west as Corfe
Castle and St. Briavels. They require men, money, arrears of scutage, cord,
cable, iron, steel, hides, leather for slings, twine for strings, mangonels,
petraries, balistæ, quarrells, stone shot, quarrymen, masons, miners,
carpenters, saddlers, wagons for conveying the royal pavilions, and
almonds, spice, and ginger for the royal still-room. All the smiths in
Northampton who can forge quarrell bolts, or feather them when forged, are
Page 245
to work day and night until 4,000 are ready and despatched. Large
quantities of wine from the royal stores in London, at Northampton, and
elsewhere, are to be forwarded with speed to Bedford. Knights performing
castle guard at Lancaster are ordered up: greyhounds are sent for for sport.
The sheriff of Bedfordshire is to supply quarrymen and masons with their
levers, hammers, mauls, and wedges, and everything necessary for the
preparation of stone shot for the mangonels and petraries. Miners come
from St. Briavels, in the Forest of Dean. Windsor supplies its master-
carpenter and his mates. Cambridge sends cord and cable. Charcoal comes
with the iron and steel from Gloucester, and the adjacent abbey of
Newenham spares a large quantity of raw stone to be converted into shot.
The details of the material supplied are recorded in the close rolls of the
period. The particulars of the siege itself have been preserved by the
neighbouring monks of Dunstable, from whose town, and probably from
whose monastery, the judge had been taken, and whose fellow-townsmen
played an important part in the siege. The king brought with him the
Archbishop of Canterbury and divers bishops and abbots, by whose interest
was granted to him two men from every hyde of their church lands to work
the siege engines; an aid of “carucage” or a mark from each caruca or
plough land of demesne, and 2s. from each held in tenancy, gifts which
were guarded against being drawn into a precedent by special charter from
the king.
Falk left his brother to abide the attack, and sought aid on the lands of the
Earl of Chester, Ranulph Blundeville. The earl, however, was with the king,
together with Peter de Rupibus, bishop of Winchester, William de
Cantelupe, Brian de l’Isle, and Peter de Maulay. All were suspected of
disaffection, and in consequence the earl and the bishop left the camp,
although the earl was afterwards brought by the Bishop of Chester to his
duty. Falk remained at Northampton until he fled to Wales.
The siege operations included on the east front a petrary and two
mangonels, which daily battered the opposite tower; on the west front, two
mangonels bore upon the old tower; on the north and south fronts were two
mangonels, one on each, and each breached its opposing wall. The
operations of these seven pieces of ordnance were materially aided by two
large wooden turrets, tall enough to command the whole castle, and
supported by other smaller turrets, all charged with archers and crossbow-
quantities of wine from the royal stores in London, at Northampton, and
elsewhere, are to be forwarded with speed to Bedford. Knights performing
castle guard at Lancaster are ordered up: greyhounds are sent for for sport.
The sheriff of Bedfordshire is to supply quarrymen and masons with their
levers, hammers, mauls, and wedges, and everything necessary for the
preparation of stone shot for the mangonels and petraries. Miners come
from St. Briavels, in the Forest of Dean. Windsor supplies its master-
carpenter and his mates. Cambridge sends cord and cable. Charcoal comes
with the iron and steel from Gloucester, and the adjacent abbey of
Newenham spares a large quantity of raw stone to be converted into shot.
The details of the material supplied are recorded in the close rolls of the
period. The particulars of the siege itself have been preserved by the
neighbouring monks of Dunstable, from whose town, and probably from
whose monastery, the judge had been taken, and whose fellow-townsmen
played an important part in the siege. The king brought with him the
Archbishop of Canterbury and divers bishops and abbots, by whose interest
was granted to him two men from every hyde of their church lands to work
the siege engines; an aid of “carucage” or a mark from each caruca or
plough land of demesne, and 2s. from each held in tenancy, gifts which
were guarded against being drawn into a precedent by special charter from
the king.
Falk left his brother to abide the attack, and sought aid on the lands of the
Earl of Chester, Ranulph Blundeville. The earl, however, was with the king,
together with Peter de Rupibus, bishop of Winchester, William de
Cantelupe, Brian de l’Isle, and Peter de Maulay. All were suspected of
disaffection, and in consequence the earl and the bishop left the camp,
although the earl was afterwards brought by the Bishop of Chester to his
duty. Falk remained at Northampton until he fled to Wales.
The siege operations included on the east front a petrary and two
mangonels, which daily battered the opposite tower; on the west front, two
mangonels bore upon the old tower; on the north and south fronts were two
mangonels, one on each, and each breached its opposing wall. The
operations of these seven pieces of ordnance were materially aided by two
large wooden turrets, tall enough to command the whole castle, and
supported by other smaller turrets, all charged with archers and crossbow-
Page 246
men. There was also the timber covered-way, known as a cat, by the aid of
which miners were able to undermine the wall, while the bowmen cleared
the battlements above. These works were thickly covered with hides,
rendering them proof against fire; and the slingers, of whom there were
many, probably kept up a general and incessant shower of pebbles upon all
who dared to show themselves on the ramparts.
The works were stormed by four vigorous assaults. First the barbican was
taken, with a loss of four or five of the assailants. Then entrance was
effected into the outer ward. This was the work of the men of Dunstable,
and was attended with severe loss. In this ward were stored most of the
munitions of the place,—arms, horses and harness, cattle, bacon and live
hogs. Much forage was here burned, with the houses and sheds in the ward.
The miners next underworked the wall next the old tower, which wall
fell. The resistance here appears to have been obstinate, many lives were
lost upon the breach, and ten of the most forward assailants were taken and
carried into the interior of the place.
Finally, on the vigil of the Assumption, 14th August, about the hour of
vespers, the miners having undermined the foundations of the old tower,
fired the props. The walls split, the smoke rose, and, the place being no
longer tenable, the garrison hoisted the royal banner, and surrendered,
sending out De Braibroc with the wife of Falk, and the other women. Next
morning the king took possession. William de Breauté and the garrison
were put upon their trial, and he and about eighty of his men were hanged
out of hand. Three were allowed to join the Templars in Palestine, and the
castle chaplain was delivered over to the archbishop as the spiritual power.
It appears from the records that the remainder of the garrison escaped with
fines and confiscations. The spoil was considerable, in treasure, provisions,
and munitions of war. Henry left for Kemeston (Kempston) on the 18th, but
was again at Bedford on the 19th, and at Dunstable on the 26th of August.
Even when flushed by success he seems not to have been severe upon those
not actually implicated. Alice, widow of the executed William de Breauté,
was allowed her dower-lands in Bedford and Cumberland. On the 19th and
on the 22nd, Margaret, wife of Falk, was allowed for her subsistence the
manors of Heyford and Sabridgeworth. Gilbert de Breauté also was allowed
a manor; and Falk, the author of all the mischief, had twenty marks allowed
for his personal expenses on his way to exile.
which miners were able to undermine the wall, while the bowmen cleared
the battlements above. These works were thickly covered with hides,
rendering them proof against fire; and the slingers, of whom there were
many, probably kept up a general and incessant shower of pebbles upon all
who dared to show themselves on the ramparts.
The works were stormed by four vigorous assaults. First the barbican was
taken, with a loss of four or five of the assailants. Then entrance was
effected into the outer ward. This was the work of the men of Dunstable,
and was attended with severe loss. In this ward were stored most of the
munitions of the place,—arms, horses and harness, cattle, bacon and live
hogs. Much forage was here burned, with the houses and sheds in the ward.
The miners next underworked the wall next the old tower, which wall
fell. The resistance here appears to have been obstinate, many lives were
lost upon the breach, and ten of the most forward assailants were taken and
carried into the interior of the place.
Finally, on the vigil of the Assumption, 14th August, about the hour of
vespers, the miners having undermined the foundations of the old tower,
fired the props. The walls split, the smoke rose, and, the place being no
longer tenable, the garrison hoisted the royal banner, and surrendered,
sending out De Braibroc with the wife of Falk, and the other women. Next
morning the king took possession. William de Breauté and the garrison
were put upon their trial, and he and about eighty of his men were hanged
out of hand. Three were allowed to join the Templars in Palestine, and the
castle chaplain was delivered over to the archbishop as the spiritual power.
It appears from the records that the remainder of the garrison escaped with
fines and confiscations. The spoil was considerable, in treasure, provisions,
and munitions of war. Henry left for Kemeston (Kempston) on the 18th, but
was again at Bedford on the 19th, and at Dunstable on the 26th of August.
Even when flushed by success he seems not to have been severe upon those
not actually implicated. Alice, widow of the executed William de Breauté,
was allowed her dower-lands in Bedford and Cumberland. On the 19th and
on the 22nd, Margaret, wife of Falk, was allowed for her subsistence the
manors of Heyford and Sabridgeworth. Gilbert de Breauté also was allowed
a manor; and Falk, the author of all the mischief, had twenty marks allowed
for his personal expenses on his way to exile.
Page 247
Immediately upon the surrender, Henry broke up the siege establishment.
Nine hundred quarrels, the residue of the 4,000, were returned to
Northampton, and the sheriff of Beds is debited with the remaining iron,
charcoal, &c., collected for the siege operations. The mangonels and heavy
artillery were to be taken to pieces and returned to Northampton Castle.
Various payments were also made and rewards given, chiefly out of the
confiscated De Breauté lands. John de Standon, the king’s miner from the
Forest of Dean, had land granted him under St. Briavels.
The castle itself was far too strong and too dangerous to be spared, and
the orders for its destruction are very sweeping and specific. By an order of
the 20th of August, five days after the surrender, the sheriff is ordered to
level the banks, fill up the ditches, and make plane the surface of the outer
ward. He is to reduce the mote or mound, and the walls of the inner ward by
one-half their height, and to level three-fourths of the old tower towards St.
Paul’s, that is on the north-west. The stones are to be divided between
William de Beauchamp for his proposed house, the church of St. Paul,
Bedford, and the priories of Caldwell and Newenham; but the last is to have
the larger share, because it supplied stones for shot for the siege.
Five days later came out another order enforcing the former, and
directing Henry de Braibroc and William de Pateshull to see to its prompt
and accurate execution. It was also specified that William de Beauchamp
might, if he pleased, build a dwelling-house on the site, and use the reduced
wall of the inner ward, but he was not to raise the mound or the wall above
a certain height, or to embattle it. He might only erect it. Braibroc is to see
the stone from both walls and mound distributed as directed. September
16th, the sheriffs of Herts, Cambridge, and Hunts were ordered to send men
to aid Braibroc and Pateshull in the work of destruction, and they are to take
tools with them, and stay until the mound is lowered and the ditches filled
up as ordered. Beauchamp was further allowed half the timber from the
barn and the old tower.
Thus passed away the strength and glory of the castle of Bedford, the
great fortress of the Ouse. Whether William de Beauchamp built upon its
site does not appear. He died 44 Hen. III., and within a very few years his
name was extinct and his barony divided.
Nine hundred quarrels, the residue of the 4,000, were returned to
Northampton, and the sheriff of Beds is debited with the remaining iron,
charcoal, &c., collected for the siege operations. The mangonels and heavy
artillery were to be taken to pieces and returned to Northampton Castle.
Various payments were also made and rewards given, chiefly out of the
confiscated De Breauté lands. John de Standon, the king’s miner from the
Forest of Dean, had land granted him under St. Briavels.
The castle itself was far too strong and too dangerous to be spared, and
the orders for its destruction are very sweeping and specific. By an order of
the 20th of August, five days after the surrender, the sheriff is ordered to
level the banks, fill up the ditches, and make plane the surface of the outer
ward. He is to reduce the mote or mound, and the walls of the inner ward by
one-half their height, and to level three-fourths of the old tower towards St.
Paul’s, that is on the north-west. The stones are to be divided between
William de Beauchamp for his proposed house, the church of St. Paul,
Bedford, and the priories of Caldwell and Newenham; but the last is to have
the larger share, because it supplied stones for shot for the siege.
Five days later came out another order enforcing the former, and
directing Henry de Braibroc and William de Pateshull to see to its prompt
and accurate execution. It was also specified that William de Beauchamp
might, if he pleased, build a dwelling-house on the site, and use the reduced
wall of the inner ward, but he was not to raise the mound or the wall above
a certain height, or to embattle it. He might only erect it. Braibroc is to see
the stone from both walls and mound distributed as directed. September
16th, the sheriffs of Herts, Cambridge, and Hunts were ordered to send men
to aid Braibroc and Pateshull in the work of destruction, and they are to take
tools with them, and stay until the mound is lowered and the ditches filled
up as ordered. Beauchamp was further allowed half the timber from the
barn and the old tower.
Thus passed away the strength and glory of the castle of Bedford, the
great fortress of the Ouse. Whether William de Beauchamp built upon its
site does not appear. He died 44 Hen. III., and within a very few years his
name was extinct and his barony divided.
Page 248
The castle, or its site, probably as the seat of a manor court, is named
from time to time in the Inquisitiones post Mortem. Thus, 5 Ed. II., Roger
L’Estrange, by Margaret his wife, was seized of “the Castle” and the “site of
the Castle” of Bedford; 1 Ed. III., John de Mowbray was seized of the site
of Bedford Castle and the fishery of the Ouse; and 40 Ed. III., another John
had suit of court in the castle of Bedford; and 50 Ed. III., Elizabeth, wife of
John Mowbray, holds of the same castle. Also, 6 Rich. II., another John
Mowbray is seized of Bedford Castle and Bedford Barony; and, finally, 8
Hen. IV., Thomas Mowbray, Earl Marshall, holds Bedford Castle in chief,
by the service of almoner to the king at his coronation; so that the tenures
and privileges attached to the castle remained in force long after the fortress
itself had been razed. In Leland’s time, the castle mill,—that great evidence
of feudal customs,—remained; and he also mentions the “great round hill”
as a burrow for foxes. There were not then any buildings.
It is evident from present appearance that the mandate of Henry III. was
strictly obeyed. No trace of a ditch is to be seen between the mound and the
river, and the mound itself is so much lower than is usual with works of that
diameter as to make it probable that at least one half has been removed and
employed in filling up the ditches.
It is not easy to gather from the account of the siege a clear idea of the
disposition of the parts of the castle. There were two wards, and the outer,
judging from its contents, must have been of considerable area. It probably
included the inner ward and the mound, and abutted upon the river. The
barbican would scarcely be placed upon the river or outside the town, and
probably was to the north-west, or near the church of St. Paul.
The inner-ward wall probably surrounded the mound, on the outside of
its ditch, and was thus open to attack when the outer ward was taken.
The old tower, last taken, and the fall of a part of which reduced the
garrison to surrender, was probably the donjon or shell crowning the
mound. This would be of Norman date, and therefore might well be called
the old tower, as distinguished from Falk’s additions, and the repairs after
the siege by Stephen. Thus, if the explanation be accepted, Bedford Castle
had a shell keep or donjon upon a mound, surrounded by a ditch and wall,
and this again by another wall, at a greater distance, the principal
storehouses and dwelling being, as was usual, in this larger or outer ward.
from time to time in the Inquisitiones post Mortem. Thus, 5 Ed. II., Roger
L’Estrange, by Margaret his wife, was seized of “the Castle” and the “site of
the Castle” of Bedford; 1 Ed. III., John de Mowbray was seized of the site
of Bedford Castle and the fishery of the Ouse; and 40 Ed. III., another John
had suit of court in the castle of Bedford; and 50 Ed. III., Elizabeth, wife of
John Mowbray, holds of the same castle. Also, 6 Rich. II., another John
Mowbray is seized of Bedford Castle and Bedford Barony; and, finally, 8
Hen. IV., Thomas Mowbray, Earl Marshall, holds Bedford Castle in chief,
by the service of almoner to the king at his coronation; so that the tenures
and privileges attached to the castle remained in force long after the fortress
itself had been razed. In Leland’s time, the castle mill,—that great evidence
of feudal customs,—remained; and he also mentions the “great round hill”
as a burrow for foxes. There were not then any buildings.
It is evident from present appearance that the mandate of Henry III. was
strictly obeyed. No trace of a ditch is to be seen between the mound and the
river, and the mound itself is so much lower than is usual with works of that
diameter as to make it probable that at least one half has been removed and
employed in filling up the ditches.
It is not easy to gather from the account of the siege a clear idea of the
disposition of the parts of the castle. There were two wards, and the outer,
judging from its contents, must have been of considerable area. It probably
included the inner ward and the mound, and abutted upon the river. The
barbican would scarcely be placed upon the river or outside the town, and
probably was to the north-west, or near the church of St. Paul.
The inner-ward wall probably surrounded the mound, on the outside of
its ditch, and was thus open to attack when the outer ward was taken.
The old tower, last taken, and the fall of a part of which reduced the
garrison to surrender, was probably the donjon or shell crowning the
mound. This would be of Norman date, and therefore might well be called
the old tower, as distinguished from Falk’s additions, and the repairs after
the siege by Stephen. Thus, if the explanation be accepted, Bedford Castle
had a shell keep or donjon upon a mound, surrounded by a ditch and wall,
and this again by another wall, at a greater distance, the principal
storehouses and dwelling being, as was usual, in this larger or outer ward.
Page 249
The History of Bedford Castle and of its siege are the subject of an
elaborate paper by the late Rev. C. H. Hartshorn, privately printed in 1861.
elaborate paper by the late Rev. C. H. Hartshorn, privately printed in 1861.
Page 250
BERKHAMPSTEAD CASTLE, HERTS.
THE Castle of Berkhampstead stands in the parish of Berkhampstead St.
Peter, in the county of Hertford, and, geologically, upon the lower chalk. Its
position is in a chalky bottom, on the left bank of the Bulborne rivulet.
Between the stream and the castle the ground is naturally low and marshy,
but it is now traversed by the Grand Junction Canal and the London and
North-Western Railway, which, with the water-course and the turnpike-
road, separate the castle from the town.
To the east and north-east of the castle the ground rises steeply towards
Whitehill and Berkhampstead Common. To the west and north-west it rises
more gradually towards Berkhampstead-place. Between the two, towards
the north, is a combe or nearly dry valley, occupied by the old park, called
the Berkhampstead estate, and in this valley stands the castle, about 400
yards from its termination in the river.
The constituent parts of the castle are a mound; an inner enceinte or
ward; an inner ditch; a second enceinte; a second ditch; a third enceinte,
enveloping the northern half only; a ravelin upon the west face; and a third
or exterior ditch, also confined to the northern half of the work.
The mound is wholly artificial. It is conical, about 60 feet high and 40
feet diameter at the top, having steep sides and a wet ditch round three-
fourths of its circumference. Its top was crowned with a circular shell of
wall, about 8 feet thick, of which the foundations only remain. Up its
southern side is a curtain-wall, much ruined, and about 8 feet thick. This
commences at the ground level at the top of the mound, and runs into a
fragment of the enceinte wall of the inner ward. It evidently connected this
wall with the keep, and was probably, as at Tamworth, parapeted on either
face of its rampart walk. It was not continued down the further side of the
mound, which was not a part of the enceinte, but a citadel placed outside it,
and connected with it only by a single wall.
Probably the ditch of the mound was originally continued all round it,
and simply traversed by the wall. Much of the ditch between the mound and
THE Castle of Berkhampstead stands in the parish of Berkhampstead St.
Peter, in the county of Hertford, and, geologically, upon the lower chalk. Its
position is in a chalky bottom, on the left bank of the Bulborne rivulet.
Between the stream and the castle the ground is naturally low and marshy,
but it is now traversed by the Grand Junction Canal and the London and
North-Western Railway, which, with the water-course and the turnpike-
road, separate the castle from the town.
To the east and north-east of the castle the ground rises steeply towards
Whitehill and Berkhampstead Common. To the west and north-west it rises
more gradually towards Berkhampstead-place. Between the two, towards
the north, is a combe or nearly dry valley, occupied by the old park, called
the Berkhampstead estate, and in this valley stands the castle, about 400
yards from its termination in the river.
The constituent parts of the castle are a mound; an inner enceinte or
ward; an inner ditch; a second enceinte; a second ditch; a third enceinte,
enveloping the northern half only; a ravelin upon the west face; and a third
or exterior ditch, also confined to the northern half of the work.
The mound is wholly artificial. It is conical, about 60 feet high and 40
feet diameter at the top, having steep sides and a wet ditch round three-
fourths of its circumference. Its top was crowned with a circular shell of
wall, about 8 feet thick, of which the foundations only remain. Up its
southern side is a curtain-wall, much ruined, and about 8 feet thick. This
commences at the ground level at the top of the mound, and runs into a
fragment of the enceinte wall of the inner ward. It evidently connected this
wall with the keep, and was probably, as at Tamworth, parapeted on either
face of its rampart walk. It was not continued down the further side of the
mound, which was not a part of the enceinte, but a citadel placed outside it,
and connected with it only by a single wall.
Probably the ditch of the mound was originally continued all round it,
and simply traversed by the wall. Much of the ditch between the mound and
Page 251
the inner ward is filled up, probably very recently, as the process is now in
progress, the object being to connect the level sward of the enceinte with
the mound for pleasure purposes.
The inner ward is an oval space, about 500 feet north and south by 300
feet east and west. It is encircled by a wall, about 7 feet thick, and now
about 20 feet high, and which may have been 4 feet to 5 feet higher. Traces
of the crenellations are visible. This wall is broken down in parts, but nearly
three-fourths of it remain. The northern, or end opposite to the mound, is
concave, the ditch of the mound having been run into it. There is a fragment
of a mural tower on the west face, much mutilated and apparently
rectangular. In the east face are two openings, one of which may have been
a postern. In the north-east quarter a cross-wall seems to have belonged to a
domestic building. The gap for the main gateway is at the south end. There
are no traces of towers there, and there do not appear, judging from the
wall, ever to have been any. The interior terre-plein, or platform, is level, no
terrace against the wall, and no trace of a bank against which the wall could
have been built. Outside the wall is a space of about 5 feet broad, beyond
which the ground falls sharply towards the wet ditch.
The inner ditch is carried quite round both mound and inner ward wall,
being in plan an unbroken oval. It is deep and everywhere wet, and in parts
it opens out into a pool. This is the case where it gave off the ditch
embracing the mound, now in part filled up, and in the south-eastern
quarter, where its overflow escapes into the river.
Outside, and forming the counterscarp of this ditch, is the second or
middle enceinte. This is a steep and narrow bank, carrying a walk of about 8
feet broad, having about an equal slope inwards towards the inner ditch, and
outwards towards the outer. For about its northern two-thirds this bank is
very uniform, but at the south-west quarter it swells into a small mound or
cavalier, about 22 feet in diameter at top, and about 20 feet high, close to
which the land has been cut away to effect a modern entry. Opposite to this,
on the south-east quarter, is another rather larger mound, about 30 feet
across and 25 feet high; and at this point the bank makes a loop outwards,
which somewhat destroys the symmetry of its plan. These two mounds are
evidently intended to flank the extremities of the outer bank.
progress, the object being to connect the level sward of the enceinte with
the mound for pleasure purposes.
The inner ward is an oval space, about 500 feet north and south by 300
feet east and west. It is encircled by a wall, about 7 feet thick, and now
about 20 feet high, and which may have been 4 feet to 5 feet higher. Traces
of the crenellations are visible. This wall is broken down in parts, but nearly
three-fourths of it remain. The northern, or end opposite to the mound, is
concave, the ditch of the mound having been run into it. There is a fragment
of a mural tower on the west face, much mutilated and apparently
rectangular. In the east face are two openings, one of which may have been
a postern. In the north-east quarter a cross-wall seems to have belonged to a
domestic building. The gap for the main gateway is at the south end. There
are no traces of towers there, and there do not appear, judging from the
wall, ever to have been any. The interior terre-plein, or platform, is level, no
terrace against the wall, and no trace of a bank against which the wall could
have been built. Outside the wall is a space of about 5 feet broad, beyond
which the ground falls sharply towards the wet ditch.
The inner ditch is carried quite round both mound and inner ward wall,
being in plan an unbroken oval. It is deep and everywhere wet, and in parts
it opens out into a pool. This is the case where it gave off the ditch
embracing the mound, now in part filled up, and in the south-eastern
quarter, where its overflow escapes into the river.
Outside, and forming the counterscarp of this ditch, is the second or
middle enceinte. This is a steep and narrow bank, carrying a walk of about 8
feet broad, having about an equal slope inwards towards the inner ditch, and
outwards towards the outer. For about its northern two-thirds this bank is
very uniform, but at the south-west quarter it swells into a small mound or
cavalier, about 22 feet in diameter at top, and about 20 feet high, close to
which the land has been cut away to effect a modern entry. Opposite to this,
on the south-east quarter, is another rather larger mound, about 30 feet
across and 25 feet high; and at this point the bank makes a loop outwards,
which somewhat destroys the symmetry of its plan. These two mounds are
evidently intended to flank the extremities of the outer bank.
Page 252
This middle bank is perforated by a modern culvert at its southern part,
by which the waters of the inner ditch escape; and a few yards east of this
the bank is crossed by two parallel walls, 12 feet apart, and which evidently
belonged to the outside of the main entrance.
The second or middle ditch, also deep and wet, envelopes the middle
bank very regularly. At present it is wanting on the south side, for a short
distance, having been filled up and converted into a road when the railway
was constructed.
by which the waters of the inner ditch escape; and a few yards east of this
the bank is crossed by two parallel walls, 12 feet apart, and which evidently
belonged to the outside of the main entrance.
The second or middle ditch, also deep and wet, envelopes the middle
bank very regularly. At present it is wanting on the south side, for a short
distance, having been filled up and converted into a road when the railway
was constructed.
Page 253
Outside this ditch is the third or outer enceinte, a steep bank, which forms
the counterscarp of the middle ditch, and envelopes rather more than the
northern half of the castle. It is about 10 feet broad above, and is
strengthened outside by eight bastions, also of earth, placed at distances of
from 60 feet to 150 feet, and each, at top, about 30 feet broad by 40 feet
projection, and rounded. The five best marked of these, being steep and
about 20 feet high, lie to the north-west. A small streamlet coming in from
the north then cuts the line, and to the east of this, covering the north-east
and east faces, the bank is continued for about 580 feet, strengthened by
three bastions, which, however, are low, and have nothing of the sharpness
of the others. These latter three have scarcely any ditch, but the other five
have at their feet a ditch, which, even now, is boggy, and no doubt was once
a formidable defence. West of this outer bank, and ranging with it so as to
cover part of the west face of the castle, is an earthwork of very doubtful
character. Its lines are rectangular, it has a ditch, and it much resembles the
early ravelins which were common in the fifteenth century, and not
unknown in the fourteenth and thirteenth.
Connected with its ditch is a pond, which appears to have been a mill-
pond and fish-stew. No doubt all these extensive ditches were turned to
account, and fed the mill which is known to have been attached to the
castle.
Berkhampstead is altogether a very striking and a very peculiar
fortification. The mound was no doubt an English burh, and, as was not
uncommon, had its own defences. The inner enceinte, though not, as is
usual, encircled by a bank, was encircled by a steep slope and ditch, which,
with a palisade, would have been a very sufficient defence. These probably
were the whole of the original works, and within them may well have been
held the famous Council of Berkhampstead in 697. The two outer works
seem to be later. The outer certainly, from its bastions, must be later than
the Conquest, and the middle bank is far too slight in its construction and
too sharply preserved to be of remote antiquity. But it is remarkable that
there is no trace of any other than the inner enceinte wall, and it is pretty
evident that there was never any other. The earthworks, except the mound,
would not have carried a wall, and had such been built it would have been
liable to be mined and overthrown with very little trouble. Evidently these
the counterscarp of the middle ditch, and envelopes rather more than the
northern half of the castle. It is about 10 feet broad above, and is
strengthened outside by eight bastions, also of earth, placed at distances of
from 60 feet to 150 feet, and each, at top, about 30 feet broad by 40 feet
projection, and rounded. The five best marked of these, being steep and
about 20 feet high, lie to the north-west. A small streamlet coming in from
the north then cuts the line, and to the east of this, covering the north-east
and east faces, the bank is continued for about 580 feet, strengthened by
three bastions, which, however, are low, and have nothing of the sharpness
of the others. These latter three have scarcely any ditch, but the other five
have at their feet a ditch, which, even now, is boggy, and no doubt was once
a formidable defence. West of this outer bank, and ranging with it so as to
cover part of the west face of the castle, is an earthwork of very doubtful
character. Its lines are rectangular, it has a ditch, and it much resembles the
early ravelins which were common in the fifteenth century, and not
unknown in the fourteenth and thirteenth.
Connected with its ditch is a pond, which appears to have been a mill-
pond and fish-stew. No doubt all these extensive ditches were turned to
account, and fed the mill which is known to have been attached to the
castle.
Berkhampstead is altogether a very striking and a very peculiar
fortification. The mound was no doubt an English burh, and, as was not
uncommon, had its own defences. The inner enceinte, though not, as is
usual, encircled by a bank, was encircled by a steep slope and ditch, which,
with a palisade, would have been a very sufficient defence. These probably
were the whole of the original works, and within them may well have been
held the famous Council of Berkhampstead in 697. The two outer works
seem to be later. The outer certainly, from its bastions, must be later than
the Conquest, and the middle bank is far too slight in its construction and
too sharply preserved to be of remote antiquity. But it is remarkable that
there is no trace of any other than the inner enceinte wall, and it is pretty
evident that there was never any other. The earthworks, except the mound,
would not have carried a wall, and had such been built it would have been
liable to be mined and overthrown with very little trouble. Evidently these
Page 254
banks were crested with palisades, and probably careful cutting into them
would show traces of the stakes.
Further, it is singular that, though there is a second and a third line of
defence, there is no middle or outer ward. These lines of defence include
ditches only, and not the space which, however narrow, was always left
between the walls of castles for the assembling their defenders. Here the
garrison of the two outer lines must have been ranged in line close in rear of
the stockade, with but room to pass between it and the ditch in their rear.
It should be mentioned that an earthwork, composed of bank and ditch,
and known locally as Grimsdyke, traverses the high road above the town,
and there are several barrows in the immediate neighbourhood. The
Berkhampstead earthworks are quite peculiar, but the neighbourhood is
rather rich in military earthworks of a circular character, among which, to
the south and west, may be mentioned Bushwood, Hawridge, Cholesbury,
and, at a greater distance, Kimble.
The masonry that remains is all of chalk flint rubble, bathed in a pure
white mortar, and probably faced with coarse flints, picked, if not squared.
Here and there parts of the face remain. This work may be Norman, or it
may be later, though probably not much. The absence of towers is
remarkable. There is no ashlar at all. This, no doubt, was removed when
Berkhampstead Place was built, but there could not have been very much of
it.
Berkhampstead was a seat of the Kings of Mercia, and the place of
meeting of a council of magnates summoned, in 697, by Wightred, king of
Kent; and, at the time of the Confessor, it belonged to Edmar, a thane of
Earl Harold. It was evidently a strong place, for when the Conqueror gave it
to his brother Robert, Earl of Mortaigne, amongst the vassals there was a
certain “Fossarius,” whose duty must have been to clean the castle ditches.
Robert is said to have fortified it with a double ditch and rampart, and he
held it at Domesday. Moreover, under the Conqueror, it was expanded into
a very extensive Honour, of which it was the caput. The manor is named,
but not the castle, in Domesday.
The castle seems to have been held by King Stephen and by John, with
the earldom of Cornwall. It had suffered in Stephen’s wars, and John gave
it, 1206, to Geoffrey Fitzpiers, Earl of Essex, who rebuilt or restored it, and
would show traces of the stakes.
Further, it is singular that, though there is a second and a third line of
defence, there is no middle or outer ward. These lines of defence include
ditches only, and not the space which, however narrow, was always left
between the walls of castles for the assembling their defenders. Here the
garrison of the two outer lines must have been ranged in line close in rear of
the stockade, with but room to pass between it and the ditch in their rear.
It should be mentioned that an earthwork, composed of bank and ditch,
and known locally as Grimsdyke, traverses the high road above the town,
and there are several barrows in the immediate neighbourhood. The
Berkhampstead earthworks are quite peculiar, but the neighbourhood is
rather rich in military earthworks of a circular character, among which, to
the south and west, may be mentioned Bushwood, Hawridge, Cholesbury,
and, at a greater distance, Kimble.
The masonry that remains is all of chalk flint rubble, bathed in a pure
white mortar, and probably faced with coarse flints, picked, if not squared.
Here and there parts of the face remain. This work may be Norman, or it
may be later, though probably not much. The absence of towers is
remarkable. There is no ashlar at all. This, no doubt, was removed when
Berkhampstead Place was built, but there could not have been very much of
it.
Berkhampstead was a seat of the Kings of Mercia, and the place of
meeting of a council of magnates summoned, in 697, by Wightred, king of
Kent; and, at the time of the Confessor, it belonged to Edmar, a thane of
Earl Harold. It was evidently a strong place, for when the Conqueror gave it
to his brother Robert, Earl of Mortaigne, amongst the vassals there was a
certain “Fossarius,” whose duty must have been to clean the castle ditches.
Robert is said to have fortified it with a double ditch and rampart, and he
held it at Domesday. Moreover, under the Conqueror, it was expanded into
a very extensive Honour, of which it was the caput. The manor is named,
but not the castle, in Domesday.
The castle seems to have been held by King Stephen and by John, with
the earldom of Cornwall. It had suffered in Stephen’s wars, and John gave
it, 1206, to Geoffrey Fitzpiers, Earl of Essex, who rebuilt or restored it, and
Page 255
may have erected the present walls. Prince Louis laid siege to, and took it,
in 1226. The attack was from the north side, and the castle held out for a
considerable time.
Richard, Earl of Cornwall and King of the Romans, brother to Henry III.,
held it. He wrote to his brother from hence in 1261, and died here in 1271–
2, as did his wife Isabel Mareschal in 1239. His son Edmund had the castle,
town, and halimote. In 1299 the castle was returned as yielding no rental;
but the millpool and the castle ditches let for the fishing at 20s. per annum.
There was then a water-mill and a park with deer. It was a part of the dower
of Margaret of France, the second wife of Edward I., who died 1317.
Edward II. gave it, with the earldom of Cornwall, to Gaveston; and to the
Black Prince, as Duke of Cornwall, came from his father the castle, manor,
vill, park, and honour of Berkhampstead, the lands of which extended into
Herts, Bucks, and Northamptonshire. It was put in order for the residence of
John of France, and the Black Prince was here not long before his death. It
was also used by the favourite of Richard II., Robert de Vere, Marquis of
Dublin, who had licence to inhabit it. Here, also, died Cicely Nevill, the
mother of Edward IV.
Queen Elizabeth leased it to Sir Edward Carey, whose grandson
employed its material to build Berkhampstead Place, since which it has
been leased to various persons, and was finally sold to the Egertons, whose
descendant in the female line, Earl Brownlow, is the owner also of the
adjacent park of Ashridge.
in 1226. The attack was from the north side, and the castle held out for a
considerable time.
Richard, Earl of Cornwall and King of the Romans, brother to Henry III.,
held it. He wrote to his brother from hence in 1261, and died here in 1271–
2, as did his wife Isabel Mareschal in 1239. His son Edmund had the castle,
town, and halimote. In 1299 the castle was returned as yielding no rental;
but the millpool and the castle ditches let for the fishing at 20s. per annum.
There was then a water-mill and a park with deer. It was a part of the dower
of Margaret of France, the second wife of Edward I., who died 1317.
Edward II. gave it, with the earldom of Cornwall, to Gaveston; and to the
Black Prince, as Duke of Cornwall, came from his father the castle, manor,
vill, park, and honour of Berkhampstead, the lands of which extended into
Herts, Bucks, and Northamptonshire. It was put in order for the residence of
John of France, and the Black Prince was here not long before his death. It
was also used by the favourite of Richard II., Robert de Vere, Marquis of
Dublin, who had licence to inhabit it. Here, also, died Cicely Nevill, the
mother of Edward IV.
Queen Elizabeth leased it to Sir Edward Carey, whose grandson
employed its material to build Berkhampstead Place, since which it has
been leased to various persons, and was finally sold to the Egertons, whose
descendant in the female line, Earl Brownlow, is the owner also of the
adjacent park of Ashridge.
Page 256
BERKELEY CASTLE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE.
THE Severn, below Shrewsbury, which on the map seems to mark a natural
division between England and the southern part of the Principality of Wales,
neither is, nor ever has been, really the dividing line. It is not, in those parts
even, a county boundary, Gloucester, Worcester, and Salop being astride
upon the stream, with large portions of their area upon its western bank. To
go back to the sixth century, when the West Saxons, starting from the coast
of Hampshire and the Isle of Wight, pressed hard upon the Britons, many
indications still show how firm was the resistance, so long as the ground
was favourable; but, when once fairly driven over the crest of the
Cotteswold, the Britons evidently retired more rapidly across the open
country, nor is it until the commencement of the high ground is reached,
that we find works which abundantly show how fierce was the struggle,
how close and persistent the attack. The high ground which forms the
western edge of the Marches is studded thickly with camps, the position and
figure of which show them to be British, while the adjacent frontiers of
Gloucester, Hereford and Shropshire, are covered with moated mounds,
placed both within and without the Dyke of Offa, and which show both the
extent of the English conquests and the manner in which they were
maintained before and during the eighth and ninth centuries.
The Normans trod very closely in the footsteps of the English, and
although their fortresses were of a stronger and more permanent character,
they occupy, for the most part, ancient sites. The three counties, from the
bordering Chepstow, the home of Strongbow, to Clun, the cradle of the
house of Stewart, were bristled thick with fortresses; some, like Chepstow,
Goderick, Kilpeck, Ewias, Hereford, Ludlow, Wigmore, Richard’s Castle,
Cleobury, Brampton, Bishop’s Castle, and Clun, either places of great
strength, or held by powerful barons; others, as St. Briavels, Wilton,
Penyard, Weobly, Croft, Clifford, Whitney, Eardisley, Huntington, Lingen,
Hopton, de Botwood, Stoke-Say, or Wattlesborough, either fortified houses
or castles of smaller area and inferior strength. Upon the line of the Severn,
in the rear of all these, there were but eight of any importance, Bristol,
THE Severn, below Shrewsbury, which on the map seems to mark a natural
division between England and the southern part of the Principality of Wales,
neither is, nor ever has been, really the dividing line. It is not, in those parts
even, a county boundary, Gloucester, Worcester, and Salop being astride
upon the stream, with large portions of their area upon its western bank. To
go back to the sixth century, when the West Saxons, starting from the coast
of Hampshire and the Isle of Wight, pressed hard upon the Britons, many
indications still show how firm was the resistance, so long as the ground
was favourable; but, when once fairly driven over the crest of the
Cotteswold, the Britons evidently retired more rapidly across the open
country, nor is it until the commencement of the high ground is reached,
that we find works which abundantly show how fierce was the struggle,
how close and persistent the attack. The high ground which forms the
western edge of the Marches is studded thickly with camps, the position and
figure of which show them to be British, while the adjacent frontiers of
Gloucester, Hereford and Shropshire, are covered with moated mounds,
placed both within and without the Dyke of Offa, and which show both the
extent of the English conquests and the manner in which they were
maintained before and during the eighth and ninth centuries.
The Normans trod very closely in the footsteps of the English, and
although their fortresses were of a stronger and more permanent character,
they occupy, for the most part, ancient sites. The three counties, from the
bordering Chepstow, the home of Strongbow, to Clun, the cradle of the
house of Stewart, were bristled thick with fortresses; some, like Chepstow,
Goderick, Kilpeck, Ewias, Hereford, Ludlow, Wigmore, Richard’s Castle,
Cleobury, Brampton, Bishop’s Castle, and Clun, either places of great
strength, or held by powerful barons; others, as St. Briavels, Wilton,
Penyard, Weobly, Croft, Clifford, Whitney, Eardisley, Huntington, Lingen,
Hopton, de Botwood, Stoke-Say, or Wattlesborough, either fortified houses
or castles of smaller area and inferior strength. Upon the line of the Severn,
in the rear of all these, there were but eight of any importance, Bristol,
Page 257
Berkeley, Gloucester, Hanley, Worcester, Hartlebury, Bridgenorth and
Shrewsbury, and of these Berkeley was in many respects the most
remarkable, and has endured the longest.
BERKELEY CASTLE.
A Keep. G Ed. II. Dungeon. M Buttery.
B Inner Ward. H Ed. II. Tower. N Kitchen.
C Outer Ward. I Domestic Apartments. O Offices.
D Outer Gate. J Chapel. P Well.
E Inner Gate. K Room above Cellar. Q Oratory and Well.
F Fore Building. L Hall.
The other castles are either ruins or have altogether been swept away. Of
Bristol there remains only a portion of a crypt. Gloucester, Hanley, and
Worcester are gone. Of Bridgenorth a part of the keep is all that is seen; and
of Shrewsbury a fragment of a Norman gatehouse, the much-altered walls
of the hall, and, older than all, the mound that gave character to the whole.
Berkeley, on the other hand, has been inhabited from its foundation to the
present day. With one temporary alienation to the Crown, it has always been
in one family, and it is as little altered as is consistent with modern usages
and modes of life.
Shrewsbury, and of these Berkeley was in many respects the most
remarkable, and has endured the longest.
BERKELEY CASTLE.
A Keep. G Ed. II. Dungeon. M Buttery.
B Inner Ward. H Ed. II. Tower. N Kitchen.
C Outer Ward. I Domestic Apartments. O Offices.
D Outer Gate. J Chapel. P Well.
E Inner Gate. K Room above Cellar. Q Oratory and Well.
F Fore Building. L Hall.
The other castles are either ruins or have altogether been swept away. Of
Bristol there remains only a portion of a crypt. Gloucester, Hanley, and
Worcester are gone. Of Bridgenorth a part of the keep is all that is seen; and
of Shrewsbury a fragment of a Norman gatehouse, the much-altered walls
of the hall, and, older than all, the mound that gave character to the whole.
Berkeley, on the other hand, has been inhabited from its foundation to the
present day. With one temporary alienation to the Crown, it has always been
in one family, and it is as little altered as is consistent with modern usages
and modes of life.
Page 258
The castle, church, and borough town of Berkeley, contained within the
hundred to which they give name, are placed upon the southern extremity of
a tract of ground which rises about 50 feet above the meadows to the south
and west, and the drainage whence is carried on by the channel of the Little
Avon, which falls into the Pill or Creek of Berkeley, and so reaches the
Severn, here expanding into an estuary, the southern shore of which is about
two miles distant from the castle. The castle stands upon the southern
extremity of the high ground. A few yards to its north is the parish church
with its detached tower, and again a little to the north is the town, which has
grown up under the protection of its lordly neighbour. A deep and wholly
artificial ditch intervenes between the churchyard and the castle, crossing
the high ground, and cutting off and isolating the latter, of which it protects
the northern and western faces. These, to the south and east, are made
secure by the natural declivity, scarped and rendered steeper by art. The
meadows out of which the castle hill rises, being but little above the
adjacent Severn, were formerly an extensive and almost impassable morass,
adding much to the strength of the place. Under the skill and labour of
centuries, they have become grass-lands of great beauty and fertility, and
form a charming foreground to the castle. Beyond, are elms and oaks often
of great magnitude, disposed in frequent hedgerows, and in the distance to
the west are the Welsh mountains, and to the east the nearer scarp of the
Cotteswold, here and there covered with thriving plantations.
Town and castle stand geologically upon the Old Red Sandstone, which,
a very few yards to the east, is succeeded by the Ludlow rocks, which are
again covered up by the marls of the Lias and New Red, and towards the
Cotteswold by the Lower Oolite.
Like Warwick, Windsor, Arundel, and some other ancient piles, noticed
by Shakespeare,—
“There stands the castle by yon tufted trees,”
between its town, and its park, now, indeed, disparked, but which extended
far and wide to the south-east, and is traversed by an extended avenue. As
was the case at Warwick, there is a deer-park entirely detached from the
castle.
The main approach to the castle lies through the town, on leaving which,
a road, passing the church, leads up to the entrance, and crosses the ditch by
hundred to which they give name, are placed upon the southern extremity of
a tract of ground which rises about 50 feet above the meadows to the south
and west, and the drainage whence is carried on by the channel of the Little
Avon, which falls into the Pill or Creek of Berkeley, and so reaches the
Severn, here expanding into an estuary, the southern shore of which is about
two miles distant from the castle. The castle stands upon the southern
extremity of the high ground. A few yards to its north is the parish church
with its detached tower, and again a little to the north is the town, which has
grown up under the protection of its lordly neighbour. A deep and wholly
artificial ditch intervenes between the churchyard and the castle, crossing
the high ground, and cutting off and isolating the latter, of which it protects
the northern and western faces. These, to the south and east, are made
secure by the natural declivity, scarped and rendered steeper by art. The
meadows out of which the castle hill rises, being but little above the
adjacent Severn, were formerly an extensive and almost impassable morass,
adding much to the strength of the place. Under the skill and labour of
centuries, they have become grass-lands of great beauty and fertility, and
form a charming foreground to the castle. Beyond, are elms and oaks often
of great magnitude, disposed in frequent hedgerows, and in the distance to
the west are the Welsh mountains, and to the east the nearer scarp of the
Cotteswold, here and there covered with thriving plantations.
Town and castle stand geologically upon the Old Red Sandstone, which,
a very few yards to the east, is succeeded by the Ludlow rocks, which are
again covered up by the marls of the Lias and New Red, and towards the
Cotteswold by the Lower Oolite.
Like Warwick, Windsor, Arundel, and some other ancient piles, noticed
by Shakespeare,—
“There stands the castle by yon tufted trees,”
between its town, and its park, now, indeed, disparked, but which extended
far and wide to the south-east, and is traversed by an extended avenue. As
was the case at Warwick, there is a deer-park entirely detached from the
castle.
The main approach to the castle lies through the town, on leaving which,
a road, passing the church, leads up to the entrance, and crosses the ditch by
Page 259
a permanent bridge, by which the draw-bridge was superseded by Henry
Lord Berkeley in 1587, and beyond and partly standing in which is the
outer Gate-house. This is a rectangular building of no great merit, pierced
by a portal having a low drop arch on each face. The passage is plainly
vaulted in calcareous tufa, and in the crown of the vault are three square
holes or meurtrières. There is no upper story, nor, at present, are there any
flanking towers or curtain. There is a basement below the road-way level,
entered from the ditch, but, probably, at one time filled with earth. This
gate-house may be of Decorated date. It has no portcullis. From the ditch,
the side walls of the bridge look original, and may have been, as at
Goderich, the lateral walls between which was the pit of the draw-bridge.
Entering the outer gate, the visitor finds himself upon a triangular
platform, of which the outer gate-house is the apex, and the inner gate-
house and part of the keep the base; on the left a modern wall, which
replaces the curtain, crests the scarp of the ditch, and forms the north side of
the platform 66 yards long. On the right a low parapet, 54 yards long, forms
the south side, and caps a revetment wall of about 10 feet in height, at the
foot of which the ancient scarp has been laid out in good taste in a terrace
garden. This triangular platform is scarcely an outer ward: it is rather a
barbican covering the main entrance and the keep. Its area is 7,750 square
yards. There is no trace of a second ditch in advance of this side of the keep
and the inner gate, but it is very probable that there was one, though, if so, it
must have been filled up when the courts were added to the keep, as
otherwise it would have completely occupied them.
The keep covers about 35 yards, or above half of the base of the
barbican, and lies to the left or north of the gate-house. Part of it has been
removed and a large breach formed, showing that the interior is full 22 feet
above the ground level outside. The inner Gate-house is in the same
position as at Alnwick. It is in truth not a regular gate-house, and has no
flanking towers or machicoulis, but the entrance passage pierces a lofty pile
of buildings which connect the domestic apartments with the keep, and
complete the circle of the main court. The portal is about 11 feet broad and
30 feet deep, and its roof is flat and of timber. It has two drop arches. On
the right is a lodge door, and the inner archway has a half round portcullis
groove. Above are two stories through which are doors, no doubt modern,
into the keep. Probably the Norman entrance was here, a mere opening in
Lord Berkeley in 1587, and beyond and partly standing in which is the
outer Gate-house. This is a rectangular building of no great merit, pierced
by a portal having a low drop arch on each face. The passage is plainly
vaulted in calcareous tufa, and in the crown of the vault are three square
holes or meurtrières. There is no upper story, nor, at present, are there any
flanking towers or curtain. There is a basement below the road-way level,
entered from the ditch, but, probably, at one time filled with earth. This
gate-house may be of Decorated date. It has no portcullis. From the ditch,
the side walls of the bridge look original, and may have been, as at
Goderich, the lateral walls between which was the pit of the draw-bridge.
Entering the outer gate, the visitor finds himself upon a triangular
platform, of which the outer gate-house is the apex, and the inner gate-
house and part of the keep the base; on the left a modern wall, which
replaces the curtain, crests the scarp of the ditch, and forms the north side of
the platform 66 yards long. On the right a low parapet, 54 yards long, forms
the south side, and caps a revetment wall of about 10 feet in height, at the
foot of which the ancient scarp has been laid out in good taste in a terrace
garden. This triangular platform is scarcely an outer ward: it is rather a
barbican covering the main entrance and the keep. Its area is 7,750 square
yards. There is no trace of a second ditch in advance of this side of the keep
and the inner gate, but it is very probable that there was one, though, if so, it
must have been filled up when the courts were added to the keep, as
otherwise it would have completely occupied them.
The keep covers about 35 yards, or above half of the base of the
barbican, and lies to the left or north of the gate-house. Part of it has been
removed and a large breach formed, showing that the interior is full 22 feet
above the ground level outside. The inner Gate-house is in the same
position as at Alnwick. It is in truth not a regular gate-house, and has no
flanking towers or machicoulis, but the entrance passage pierces a lofty pile
of buildings which connect the domestic apartments with the keep, and
complete the circle of the main court. The portal is about 11 feet broad and
30 feet deep, and its roof is flat and of timber. It has two drop arches. On
the right is a lodge door, and the inner archway has a half round portcullis
groove. Above are two stories through which are doors, no doubt modern,
into the keep. Probably the Norman entrance was here, a mere opening in
Page 260
the wall. Much of the structure seems Decorated with later alterations.
South of, and flanking the gate, between it and the south-east angle of the
place, is a small Tudor building.
The gateway opens into the Great Court of the castle, a roughly
rectangular space, having the circular keep encroaching considerably upon
its north-west angle, and the remainder of the space set round with domestic
buildings built against and completely concealing the lofty curtain.
This court, which is, in fact, the castle, measures outside upon its south
face 60 yards, and its east face 72 yards, these two being set nearly at right
angles. The north and west faces are about 60 yards and 76 yards, but the
north-west angle is occupied by the keep, which covers about 40 yards of
the north, and 42 yards of the west face, forming a part of the enceinte. The
buildings project about 30 feet, so that the inner and open part of the court
is much reduced in area. The curtain, originally thick, has been strengthened
outside, probably in the Decorated period, by nearly thirty broad and thick
and very clumsy buttresses, some of which probably conceal the early
Norman pilaster, for most of the wall is certainly of that date. Some of these
buttresses are pierced by loops, showing an immense thickness of wall.
On entering the court, on the left is the high plain wall of the keep, with
its forebuilding and exterior staircase ascending to the entrance. On the
right are domestic buildings, drawing-rooms, bed-rooms, &c., extending to
the south-east corner. The face wall, though much altered, and pierced with
Tudor windows, seems in substance Norman with large Decorated
alterations. The pointed Norman arches may be traced in the wall. These
buildings have a basement and two upper stories. It is uncertain whether
they stand upon a vault.
The chapel occupies the south-east angle. The hall is next to it along the
east side, and the butteries, kitchen, and offices fill up the north-east angle
and the north side as far as the keep. In the south wall, near the gate-house,
but at the exterior ground level, is a small pointed doorway, probably a
postern, and connected with it a small chamber, about 6 feet below the level
of the court, of doubtful age, but with an old doorway. It has a flat roof, and
wooden floor of the room above: being filled with the bins of a modern
cellar, it cannot be examined.
South of, and flanking the gate, between it and the south-east angle of the
place, is a small Tudor building.
The gateway opens into the Great Court of the castle, a roughly
rectangular space, having the circular keep encroaching considerably upon
its north-west angle, and the remainder of the space set round with domestic
buildings built against and completely concealing the lofty curtain.
This court, which is, in fact, the castle, measures outside upon its south
face 60 yards, and its east face 72 yards, these two being set nearly at right
angles. The north and west faces are about 60 yards and 76 yards, but the
north-west angle is occupied by the keep, which covers about 40 yards of
the north, and 42 yards of the west face, forming a part of the enceinte. The
buildings project about 30 feet, so that the inner and open part of the court
is much reduced in area. The curtain, originally thick, has been strengthened
outside, probably in the Decorated period, by nearly thirty broad and thick
and very clumsy buttresses, some of which probably conceal the early
Norman pilaster, for most of the wall is certainly of that date. Some of these
buttresses are pierced by loops, showing an immense thickness of wall.
On entering the court, on the left is the high plain wall of the keep, with
its forebuilding and exterior staircase ascending to the entrance. On the
right are domestic buildings, drawing-rooms, bed-rooms, &c., extending to
the south-east corner. The face wall, though much altered, and pierced with
Tudor windows, seems in substance Norman with large Decorated
alterations. The pointed Norman arches may be traced in the wall. These
buildings have a basement and two upper stories. It is uncertain whether
they stand upon a vault.
The chapel occupies the south-east angle. The hall is next to it along the
east side, and the butteries, kitchen, and offices fill up the north-east angle
and the north side as far as the keep. In the south wall, near the gate-house,
but at the exterior ground level, is a small pointed doorway, probably a
postern, and connected with it a small chamber, about 6 feet below the level
of the court, of doubtful age, but with an old doorway. It has a flat roof, and
wooden floor of the room above: being filled with the bins of a modern
cellar, it cannot be examined.
Page 261
The Chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, rests on the vault of the great cellar,
and measures 29 feet by 18 feet. It is entered by a modern door in the north
wall, west of which are traces of what seems to have been the original
entrance. It has a rather flat apsidal east end of three faces; the vestry, a
mural chamber, opening in that to the south-east. The south side is the outer
wall, 14 feet thick; it is pierced by a mural passage, a sort of aisle, at the
floor-level, which opens into the chapel by four foliated arches, each
corresponding to a window or loop in the curtain. There is a small
Decorated piscina. Against the west wall is a sort of pew of two stages, the
upper being an enclosed gallery for the family, opening from the principal
rooms.
The roof is open, at a very low pitch, with timber ribs rising from corbels.
These, with cross ribs, divide the roof into large panels of a very curious
character. The walls of the chapel are Norman, but the roof and fittings are
mostly Decorated. Maurice, Lord Berkeley, 38 Edward III., obtained from
Pope Urban II. a bull bestowing certain spiritual privileges upon all who
worshipped here or in the chapel in the keep.
The Cellar below the chapel is part of the original castle. Its level is a
little below the floor of the hall. It is in plan an equilateral triangle about 40
feet in the side. Its roof is vaulted and groined in three hexagonal bays,
springing from three shafts of late Norman character. Nine triangular
vaultings, abutting on the walls, complete this very curious roof. Opening
from this is another vault, also a cellar, at a lower level by about 5 feet. It is
much smaller, and has a ribbed and vaulted roof. Unfortunately it is used as
a cellar, and obscured by modern fittings. It has a small Tudor window.
From the chapel and drawing-room a broad wooden seventeenth century
staircase descends into the hall at its south or dais end, in which is a large
and handsome fireplace, probably of the same date.
The Hall is 32 feet broad by 61 feet long, and has an open pointed roof. It
is built at the ground level against the east curtain, which is, or was, pierced
by four windows, three in the hall and one within the buttery screen. The
latter is late Norman, with slender flanking shafts. The other three are full
centred, with a keel bead at the angle, and an interior drip. They seem
Decorated, and no doubt replace Norman loops. In the west or court wall
are four large and lofty flat-topped and somewhat peculiar windows of two
and measures 29 feet by 18 feet. It is entered by a modern door in the north
wall, west of which are traces of what seems to have been the original
entrance. It has a rather flat apsidal east end of three faces; the vestry, a
mural chamber, opening in that to the south-east. The south side is the outer
wall, 14 feet thick; it is pierced by a mural passage, a sort of aisle, at the
floor-level, which opens into the chapel by four foliated arches, each
corresponding to a window or loop in the curtain. There is a small
Decorated piscina. Against the west wall is a sort of pew of two stages, the
upper being an enclosed gallery for the family, opening from the principal
rooms.
The roof is open, at a very low pitch, with timber ribs rising from corbels.
These, with cross ribs, divide the roof into large panels of a very curious
character. The walls of the chapel are Norman, but the roof and fittings are
mostly Decorated. Maurice, Lord Berkeley, 38 Edward III., obtained from
Pope Urban II. a bull bestowing certain spiritual privileges upon all who
worshipped here or in the chapel in the keep.
The Cellar below the chapel is part of the original castle. Its level is a
little below the floor of the hall. It is in plan an equilateral triangle about 40
feet in the side. Its roof is vaulted and groined in three hexagonal bays,
springing from three shafts of late Norman character. Nine triangular
vaultings, abutting on the walls, complete this very curious roof. Opening
from this is another vault, also a cellar, at a lower level by about 5 feet. It is
much smaller, and has a ribbed and vaulted roof. Unfortunately it is used as
a cellar, and obscured by modern fittings. It has a small Tudor window.
From the chapel and drawing-room a broad wooden seventeenth century
staircase descends into the hall at its south or dais end, in which is a large
and handsome fireplace, probably of the same date.
The Hall is 32 feet broad by 61 feet long, and has an open pointed roof. It
is built at the ground level against the east curtain, which is, or was, pierced
by four windows, three in the hall and one within the buttery screen. The
latter is late Norman, with slender flanking shafts. The other three are full
centred, with a keel bead at the angle, and an interior drip. They seem
Decorated, and no doubt replace Norman loops. In the west or court wall
are four large and lofty flat-topped and somewhat peculiar windows of two
Page 262
lights each, broken into four by a heavy transom. The upper lights are
trefoil, the lower shoulder-headed. Between each pair, outside, is a
triangular buttress. The entrance from the court is in the west side, at the
north end, by a handsome and spacious porch, vaulted and groined. The
exterior doorway is an arch composed of four quite plain straight sides,
parts of an octagon, similar in outline to those above the Berkeley tombs at
Bristol, known locally as the Berkeley arch. This is repeated with the
addition of some ornament in the inner doorway, which opens into a narrow
strip of the hall cut off by the screen. On the left, in the end wall of the hall,
are three fine Berkeley arches opening into the butteries, of which the
central was formerly a door. Above this passage, high up, is a small music
gallery, probably of Tudor date, or even later. The roof of the hall is poor,
but said to be of the fourteenth century. No doubt this represents the
original Norman hall, rebuilt, as regards the court wall, in the Decorated
period.
Wyman & Sons, Gᵗ. Queen Sᵗ. London.
BERKELEY CASTLE—THE KEEP.
From the Hall.
In the hall are placed, not inappropriately, the earlier charters of the
family, protected with glass. Perhaps, however, looking at their extreme
trefoil, the lower shoulder-headed. Between each pair, outside, is a
triangular buttress. The entrance from the court is in the west side, at the
north end, by a handsome and spacious porch, vaulted and groined. The
exterior doorway is an arch composed of four quite plain straight sides,
parts of an octagon, similar in outline to those above the Berkeley tombs at
Bristol, known locally as the Berkeley arch. This is repeated with the
addition of some ornament in the inner doorway, which opens into a narrow
strip of the hall cut off by the screen. On the left, in the end wall of the hall,
are three fine Berkeley arches opening into the butteries, of which the
central was formerly a door. Above this passage, high up, is a small music
gallery, probably of Tudor date, or even later. The roof of the hall is poor,
but said to be of the fourteenth century. No doubt this represents the
original Norman hall, rebuilt, as regards the court wall, in the Decorated
period.
Wyman & Sons, Gᵗ. Queen Sᵗ. London.
BERKELEY CASTLE—THE KEEP.
From the Hall.
In the hall are placed, not inappropriately, the earlier charters of the
family, protected with glass. Perhaps, however, looking at their extreme
Page 263
value as connected with the castle, it would be safer to restore them to the
muniment room, and replace them for public exhibition by photographs.
To the north, beyond the lower end of the hall, are the butteries, kitchen,
and pantries, the latter against the curtain. The Kitchen is an irregular
hexagon, averaging 13 feet 6 inches in the side. In the three longer sides are
recesses for a fireplace, and hoods over cooking-places. The original doors
were in the buttery on one side and the scullery on the other, and there were
two windows towards the court. The roof is of open work, very plain, heavy
and poor, and very high up. It is said to have been brought from Wootton
Manor House, and placed here by Henry VII. The scullery, &c. occupy the
north-east angle of the court, and, like the adjacent chambers, is of irregular
form, governed by the general outline of the castle. The larders, dairy, &c.
are against the north curtain, and from the bakehouse a modern vaulted
passage leads to the ancient well, which is in the court. The oven is in the
north-west corner, and two bold drop-arched stone ribs traverse the
chamber, and stiffen its vaulted roof. All these rooms form the ground floor,
and carry an upper story. Their front towards the court seems to have been
modernised, but in substance they are Decorated, with considerable remains
of older Norman walling.
The Keep is the most interesting part of this very remarkable castle, since
it is a shell keep of a known date. It is nearly circular, about 50 yards
diameter, and the containing curtain-wall is about 8 feet thick, reducing its
inner area to near 45 yards. The floor, of earth, is about 22 feet higher than
the exterior ground, and, the wall being 40 feet high inside, is about 62 feet
outside, the lower 22 feet being a revetment, and very thick. Upon its circuit
are three half-round projecting towers or bastion turrets, 20 feet in diameter,
of the height of the curtain, which seems to have been open at the rear, or
closed only with timber. One of these projects to the east, and is abutted
upon by the northern curtain of the castle court. In its base is a well, under a
barrel vault, and above, resting upon this, is the oratory, dedicated to St.
John the Baptist. The western or end wall of the oratory, and the outer stair
leading to it, are modern.
The oratory is at present used as a muniment room. The ecclesiastical
features are much injured and obscured. The eastern end is a half round, and
there are remains of the flanking shafts of the Norman east window, and a
small piscina. It appears to have been vaulted.
muniment room, and replace them for public exhibition by photographs.
To the north, beyond the lower end of the hall, are the butteries, kitchen,
and pantries, the latter against the curtain. The Kitchen is an irregular
hexagon, averaging 13 feet 6 inches in the side. In the three longer sides are
recesses for a fireplace, and hoods over cooking-places. The original doors
were in the buttery on one side and the scullery on the other, and there were
two windows towards the court. The roof is of open work, very plain, heavy
and poor, and very high up. It is said to have been brought from Wootton
Manor House, and placed here by Henry VII. The scullery, &c. occupy the
north-east angle of the court, and, like the adjacent chambers, is of irregular
form, governed by the general outline of the castle. The larders, dairy, &c.
are against the north curtain, and from the bakehouse a modern vaulted
passage leads to the ancient well, which is in the court. The oven is in the
north-west corner, and two bold drop-arched stone ribs traverse the
chamber, and stiffen its vaulted roof. All these rooms form the ground floor,
and carry an upper story. Their front towards the court seems to have been
modernised, but in substance they are Decorated, with considerable remains
of older Norman walling.
The Keep is the most interesting part of this very remarkable castle, since
it is a shell keep of a known date. It is nearly circular, about 50 yards
diameter, and the containing curtain-wall is about 8 feet thick, reducing its
inner area to near 45 yards. The floor, of earth, is about 22 feet higher than
the exterior ground, and, the wall being 40 feet high inside, is about 62 feet
outside, the lower 22 feet being a revetment, and very thick. Upon its circuit
are three half-round projecting towers or bastion turrets, 20 feet in diameter,
of the height of the curtain, which seems to have been open at the rear, or
closed only with timber. One of these projects to the east, and is abutted
upon by the northern curtain of the castle court. In its base is a well, under a
barrel vault, and above, resting upon this, is the oratory, dedicated to St.
John the Baptist. The western or end wall of the oratory, and the outer stair
leading to it, are modern.
The oratory is at present used as a muniment room. The ecclesiastical
features are much injured and obscured. The eastern end is a half round, and
there are remains of the flanking shafts of the Norman east window, and a
small piscina. It appears to have been vaulted.
Page 264
The second half-round tower is 64 feet from the former, and projects to
the south into the court, commanding the inner face of its entrance, and the
approach to the keep. In it, below the ground level, but not much lower than
the level of the court below, is a circular dungeon 25 feet deep, into which
Edward II. is said to have been finally thrust.
The third tower is 50 feet from the second, and projects to the south.
Here also has recently been discovered a chamber somewhat similar to the
dungeon already mentioned, also not vaulted, and of very rough masonry,
as though a mere foundation intended to be filled up with earth. These two
last towers are blocked in by later masonry, the first within, the latter both
within and without, as it projects into the buildings of the gateway. As this
tower could never have been intended to be thus concealed, it points to the
conclusion that the keep was built before the wall of the inner court.
Besides these three half-round towers is a fourth, rectangular, and a much
larger work, to the north, forming a part of the exterior line of defence. This
is known as Thorpe’s Tower, and the family of that name are said to have
held their adjacent estate of Wanswell by the tenure of its defence. This
tower is 64 feet long by 17 feet deep. It forms a part of the curtain, having a
very slight interior projection. At each end it expands into a square turret,
that to the west 17 feet, that to the east 20 feet. The western turret and the
body of the tower are thought to be solid, which is very improbable. They
are not unlikely to have been filled in with earth to increase their power of
resistance when the castle was battered from the churchyard. The eastern
turret contains a square well-staircase of fifty-four steps, which leads to the
battlements, and has a mural chamber on its way. The entrance below to this
staircase is by an original full-centred arch, partially blocked up. This tower
is somewhat higher than the curtain, with which it does not communicate. It
is said to have been originally higher by a few feet more. Even at present it
is the highest part of the castle, and hence the family banner is displayed.
Below and outside this tower, to the north, are some modern offices.
Between Thorpe Tower and the Well Tower is seen in the wall the outline
of a recess for a loop, and above it a segmental arch and Norman moulding,
now closed up. The whole south side of the keep area is occupied by a
block of building, about 80 feet long by from 20 feet to 30 feet deep. No
doubt part of this building may be original, but by far the more prominent
the south into the court, commanding the inner face of its entrance, and the
approach to the keep. In it, below the ground level, but not much lower than
the level of the court below, is a circular dungeon 25 feet deep, into which
Edward II. is said to have been finally thrust.
The third tower is 50 feet from the second, and projects to the south.
Here also has recently been discovered a chamber somewhat similar to the
dungeon already mentioned, also not vaulted, and of very rough masonry,
as though a mere foundation intended to be filled up with earth. These two
last towers are blocked in by later masonry, the first within, the latter both
within and without, as it projects into the buildings of the gateway. As this
tower could never have been intended to be thus concealed, it points to the
conclusion that the keep was built before the wall of the inner court.
Besides these three half-round towers is a fourth, rectangular, and a much
larger work, to the north, forming a part of the exterior line of defence. This
is known as Thorpe’s Tower, and the family of that name are said to have
held their adjacent estate of Wanswell by the tenure of its defence. This
tower is 64 feet long by 17 feet deep. It forms a part of the curtain, having a
very slight interior projection. At each end it expands into a square turret,
that to the west 17 feet, that to the east 20 feet. The western turret and the
body of the tower are thought to be solid, which is very improbable. They
are not unlikely to have been filled in with earth to increase their power of
resistance when the castle was battered from the churchyard. The eastern
turret contains a square well-staircase of fifty-four steps, which leads to the
battlements, and has a mural chamber on its way. The entrance below to this
staircase is by an original full-centred arch, partially blocked up. This tower
is somewhat higher than the curtain, with which it does not communicate. It
is said to have been originally higher by a few feet more. Even at present it
is the highest part of the castle, and hence the family banner is displayed.
Below and outside this tower, to the north, are some modern offices.
Between Thorpe Tower and the Well Tower is seen in the wall the outline
of a recess for a loop, and above it a segmental arch and Norman moulding,
now closed up. The whole south side of the keep area is occupied by a
block of building, about 80 feet long by from 20 feet to 30 feet deep. No
doubt part of this building may be original, but by far the more prominent
Page 265
part is evidently modern, and sadly out of place. It covers the rear of the
two southern half-round towers, which are thus not seen from within.
The entrance to this keep is peculiar. Usually, as at Tamworth, Lincoln,
York, Cardiff, and Arundel, the entrance to a shell-keep was at its ground-
level, and that of a rectangular keep, as at Castle Rising and Dover, at its
first or second floor. Here, however, both conditions may be said to be
fulfilled, for although the entrance is on the ground level as regards the
interior of the keep, it is the full height of a first floor above the ground
outside, and this height is gained by an exterior stair, guarded by a middle
and lower gate, and above the latter by a regular tower. This forebuilding is
common to rectangular keeps, but does not occur elsewhere in shell keeps.
Here the Forebuilding is 72 feet in length, and is applied to the south-east
side of the keep, or that within the court. In breadth it varies from 15 feet to
10 feet. Five steps ascend to its outer gate, a large full-centred archway
contained within a plain chamfered moulding. As the doorway has been
blocked and reduced in size by a perpendicular work, its jambs are
concealed or may have been removed. Within is a vaulted passage, carried
through the gate-tower, which is 15 feet square, and has an upper story.
From the doorway twenty-four steps ascend to an open platform, having on
the right a high and pierced parapet, and on the left the wall of the keep. At
the stair-head a ledge on the right serves as a way to the upper floor over the
gateway. This is a small chamber lighted by two windows and a lancet loop.
The two larger windows and the door are of Tudor date, as may be the
whole room; but, if so, it is a rebuilding, for the original tower must have
been on the same pattern. In the room is an ancient bed and some hangings
of needlework or tapestry, very early, but scarce of the age of Edward II.,
whose chamber this is reputed to have been.
A little beyond the stair-head, against the walls, right and left, are seen
the rebates of the middle gate, and in front, in the wall of the Oratory
Tower, is the weather moulding of a roof. Hence it would seem that the
staircase, as at Castle Rising, was covered all the way up.
The main entrance to the keep opens upon the platform at the stair-head.
It is a handsome, full-arched doorway with closed tympanum and flat head.
It was flanked by highly ornate shafts, of which one remains. This portal
opens into a vaulted passage through the keep wall, and enters the keep
under an original archway, segmented with Norman mouldings. The jambs
two southern half-round towers, which are thus not seen from within.
The entrance to this keep is peculiar. Usually, as at Tamworth, Lincoln,
York, Cardiff, and Arundel, the entrance to a shell-keep was at its ground-
level, and that of a rectangular keep, as at Castle Rising and Dover, at its
first or second floor. Here, however, both conditions may be said to be
fulfilled, for although the entrance is on the ground level as regards the
interior of the keep, it is the full height of a first floor above the ground
outside, and this height is gained by an exterior stair, guarded by a middle
and lower gate, and above the latter by a regular tower. This forebuilding is
common to rectangular keeps, but does not occur elsewhere in shell keeps.
Here the Forebuilding is 72 feet in length, and is applied to the south-east
side of the keep, or that within the court. In breadth it varies from 15 feet to
10 feet. Five steps ascend to its outer gate, a large full-centred archway
contained within a plain chamfered moulding. As the doorway has been
blocked and reduced in size by a perpendicular work, its jambs are
concealed or may have been removed. Within is a vaulted passage, carried
through the gate-tower, which is 15 feet square, and has an upper story.
From the doorway twenty-four steps ascend to an open platform, having on
the right a high and pierced parapet, and on the left the wall of the keep. At
the stair-head a ledge on the right serves as a way to the upper floor over the
gateway. This is a small chamber lighted by two windows and a lancet loop.
The two larger windows and the door are of Tudor date, as may be the
whole room; but, if so, it is a rebuilding, for the original tower must have
been on the same pattern. In the room is an ancient bed and some hangings
of needlework or tapestry, very early, but scarce of the age of Edward II.,
whose chamber this is reputed to have been.
A little beyond the stair-head, against the walls, right and left, are seen
the rebates of the middle gate, and in front, in the wall of the Oratory
Tower, is the weather moulding of a roof. Hence it would seem that the
staircase, as at Castle Rising, was covered all the way up.
The main entrance to the keep opens upon the platform at the stair-head.
It is a handsome, full-arched doorway with closed tympanum and flat head.
It was flanked by highly ornate shafts, of which one remains. This portal
opens into a vaulted passage through the keep wall, and enters the keep
under an original archway, segmented with Norman mouldings. The jambs
Page 266
are worked in a very bold chevron pattern. From the exterior platform a
narrow stair is continued to the battlements of the curtain over the
bakehouse; but this may be an addition, for usually every part of a Norman
keep was complete in itself, and had no direct communication with any
other part of the castle. There is another and parallel stair in the wall, but
opening outside and leading to the room above the bakehouse. This is not
original.
The keep is constructed of exceedingly rude rubble masonry. Upon two
parts of its face are nine narrow and shallow pilaster strips: three towards
the barbican, and six between the inner gate and the forebuilding. The keep
wall has a rude plinth, with no set-off or string. It is evident that this, as at
York, and in other shell-keeps, was lined by lodgings, having an upper
floor, placed all round against the wall with an open court in the centre.
These were probably of timber. In the part of the keep towards the barbican
is a breach about 40 feet broad down to the level of the inner floor. It is said
that this part of the wall was partially broken down during General
Massey’s attack, and was afterwards enlarged to its present condition, as at
Kenilworth, rather as a matter of favour, to render the castle untenable
without injuring it as a dwelling. Had the keep been blown up as was usual
by gunpowder, it would have presented a very different aspect.
If the masonry of Berkeley Castle were to be removed, as at Kilpeck or
Ewias Harold, its remains would show a mound of earth, and attached to
three sides of it a platform, the whole encircled with a ditch or scarp. It
would, in fact, be a moated mound with an appended platform, of a
character very common in England, in the Welsh Marches, and in
Normandy, and would resemble such works as Tamworth and Towcester,
the dates of which are given in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle. The inference
is, therefore, that Berkeley was the seat of an English lord, probably from
the ninth century. Had the fortress been an original Norman work, it is
scarcely probable that a shell would have been the form of keep selected, or
that, having been so selected, its lower 22 feet would have been filled up
with earth. Evidently the Norman builder, finding a moated mound of no
great height, but of considerable breadth, built his shell round it, as at
Pontefract, as a revetment wall, and upon this, when clear of the top of the
mound, raised his curtain. At a lower level, along the scarp of the existing
narrow stair is continued to the battlements of the curtain over the
bakehouse; but this may be an addition, for usually every part of a Norman
keep was complete in itself, and had no direct communication with any
other part of the castle. There is another and parallel stair in the wall, but
opening outside and leading to the room above the bakehouse. This is not
original.
The keep is constructed of exceedingly rude rubble masonry. Upon two
parts of its face are nine narrow and shallow pilaster strips: three towards
the barbican, and six between the inner gate and the forebuilding. The keep
wall has a rude plinth, with no set-off or string. It is evident that this, as at
York, and in other shell-keeps, was lined by lodgings, having an upper
floor, placed all round against the wall with an open court in the centre.
These were probably of timber. In the part of the keep towards the barbican
is a breach about 40 feet broad down to the level of the inner floor. It is said
that this part of the wall was partially broken down during General
Massey’s attack, and was afterwards enlarged to its present condition, as at
Kenilworth, rather as a matter of favour, to render the castle untenable
without injuring it as a dwelling. Had the keep been blown up as was usual
by gunpowder, it would have presented a very different aspect.
If the masonry of Berkeley Castle were to be removed, as at Kilpeck or
Ewias Harold, its remains would show a mound of earth, and attached to
three sides of it a platform, the whole encircled with a ditch or scarp. It
would, in fact, be a moated mound with an appended platform, of a
character very common in England, in the Welsh Marches, and in
Normandy, and would resemble such works as Tamworth and Towcester,
the dates of which are given in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle. The inference
is, therefore, that Berkeley was the seat of an English lord, probably from
the ninth century. Had the fortress been an original Norman work, it is
scarcely probable that a shell would have been the form of keep selected, or
that, having been so selected, its lower 22 feet would have been filled up
with earth. Evidently the Norman builder, finding a moated mound of no
great height, but of considerable breadth, built his shell round it, as at
Pontefract, as a revetment wall, and upon this, when clear of the top of the
mound, raised his curtain. At a lower level, along the scarp of the existing
Page 267
ditch, he, or his immediate successor, constructed the walls, which, then as
now, contain the whole castle.
All the main walls of the castle are either Norman, or rebuilt upon
Norman foundations, or very nearly so. Probably the keep was built first
and the court enclosed shortly afterwards. Much was done in the Decorated
period. The inner wall of the hall, at least, was rebuilt, and it may have been
enlarged. The porch was added, the chapel much altered, and the domestic
buildings possibly gutted and recast. Henry VII., when in possession, seems
to have made some inconsiderable alterations, and others have been added
since.
Berkeley is a rare example of an estate which has descended in the male
line from the reign of Stephen, and in the female line from the Norman
Conquest. The first of the latter ancestry is entered as the Lord of Berkeley
in Domesday; the first of the former is also there entered, though as
proprietor of other estates. Few, if any, of our oldest families can say with
truth as much, but further than this the Berkeley tenure has been “per
Baroniam,” and from the Conquest they have been barons of the realm, first
by tenure, and when, in the reign of Henry III., tenure fell into disuse, then
by writ; but by one right or the other they have ever sat in the great council
of the nation.
There is no reason to suppose that the Romans had any settlement at
Berkeley. Their camps and villas are frequent in the neighbourhood, which
was traversed by Roman roads, but of their presence in Berkeley itself there
is no other evidence than the fact that the two main streets of the town cross
in its centre at a right angle, in the Roman manner.
There is, however, evidence of a religious house at Berkeley in the eighth
century. Tilhere, Bishop of Worcester, in 778, seems to have been
previously Abbot of Beorclea, as was Etheldune, also his successor at
Worcester in 915. Tanner thinks the family at Berclea, mentioned in the
Acts of a synod at Cloveshoe in a.d. 824, may refer to a religious house
here. There was also a nunnery, for a charter by Adeliza, queen of Henry I.,
gives to the church of Reading, Berkeley Hern, that is, the church of
Berkeley, with its appended prebends, and the prebends “duarum
monalium,” which seems to refer to a nunnery. Camden says the nunnery
was suppressed by Earl Godwin in the reign of the Confessor, and preserves
now, contain the whole castle.
All the main walls of the castle are either Norman, or rebuilt upon
Norman foundations, or very nearly so. Probably the keep was built first
and the court enclosed shortly afterwards. Much was done in the Decorated
period. The inner wall of the hall, at least, was rebuilt, and it may have been
enlarged. The porch was added, the chapel much altered, and the domestic
buildings possibly gutted and recast. Henry VII., when in possession, seems
to have made some inconsiderable alterations, and others have been added
since.
Berkeley is a rare example of an estate which has descended in the male
line from the reign of Stephen, and in the female line from the Norman
Conquest. The first of the latter ancestry is entered as the Lord of Berkeley
in Domesday; the first of the former is also there entered, though as
proprietor of other estates. Few, if any, of our oldest families can say with
truth as much, but further than this the Berkeley tenure has been “per
Baroniam,” and from the Conquest they have been barons of the realm, first
by tenure, and when, in the reign of Henry III., tenure fell into disuse, then
by writ; but by one right or the other they have ever sat in the great council
of the nation.
There is no reason to suppose that the Romans had any settlement at
Berkeley. Their camps and villas are frequent in the neighbourhood, which
was traversed by Roman roads, but of their presence in Berkeley itself there
is no other evidence than the fact that the two main streets of the town cross
in its centre at a right angle, in the Roman manner.
There is, however, evidence of a religious house at Berkeley in the eighth
century. Tilhere, Bishop of Worcester, in 778, seems to have been
previously Abbot of Beorclea, as was Etheldune, also his successor at
Worcester in 915. Tanner thinks the family at Berclea, mentioned in the
Acts of a synod at Cloveshoe in a.d. 824, may refer to a religious house
here. There was also a nunnery, for a charter by Adeliza, queen of Henry I.,
gives to the church of Reading, Berkeley Hern, that is, the church of
Berkeley, with its appended prebends, and the prebends “duarum
monalium,” which seems to refer to a nunnery. Camden says the nunnery
was suppressed by Earl Godwin in the reign of the Confessor, and preserves
Page 268
a scandalous tale thereupon, which derives some support from a curious
entry in Domesday, whence it appears that Gytha, the wife of Godwin and
mother of Harold, had Ullcestre, near Berkeley, from her husband, he
having bought it from Azor that she might live there till she should live at
Berkeley. “Nolebat enim de ipso manerio aliquid comedere pro destructione
abbatiæ.”
In Domesday, Berkeley appears as a royal demesne and free borough,
which had been held by the Confessor, and belonged to William, but was
held of him by Roger, called thence of Berkeley. It was the head of a soke
or barony, for attached to it were “Berews,” or members, in twenty-one
adjacent parishes. The castle is not mentioned, but in “Ness,” probably
Sharpness, was a castellum, or castellet, claimed by the same Roger. His
holding in the Liber Niger is set down as 2½ knights’ fees. He gave liberally
to Stanley Priory, and died there 1096. William, his nephew, succeeded, and
had a son Roger, father of Roger, who all held Berkeley, and are designated
by its name. This latter Roger was a partisan of King Stephen, and was
turned out of Berkeley by Henry, who gave Berkeley to Robert, son of
Hardinge, Præpositus of Bristol, who died 1170, 16 Henry II., aged seventy-
five, leaving Maurice Fitzhardinge, his son. To stanch the feud between the
dispossessed and the new lord, Henry made up a double alliance: Helen,
daughter of Fitzhardinge, was married to a son of Roger de Berkeley, and
Alice, Roger’s daughter, to Maurice Fitzhardinge of Berkeley. The result
was that the old Berkeleys fell back upon their manor of Cuberley, and
finally died out, and the Fitzhardinges, with the estate, bore the surname of
Berkeley, and have so continued. At that time the Manor or Lordship,
sometimes called the Honour of Berkeley, included above thirty parishes,
and extended over most of the hundred. It was rated at 160 hides, and paid a
chief rent of £70.
Henry, at the time of the gift, was only Duke of Normandy, and weak,
and Fitzhardinge was an important man; hence the duke treats as equal with
equal, and with the estate makes a promise to build him a castle to his taste.
“Et pepigi ei firmare ibi castellum secundum voluntatem ipsius Roberti,”
and, on the other hand, Robert promises to be Henry’s liege. Henry visited
Berkeley in 1155, when, no doubt, the present castle was begun. Henry’s
charter is in excellent preservation, and is kept at Berkeley.
entry in Domesday, whence it appears that Gytha, the wife of Godwin and
mother of Harold, had Ullcestre, near Berkeley, from her husband, he
having bought it from Azor that she might live there till she should live at
Berkeley. “Nolebat enim de ipso manerio aliquid comedere pro destructione
abbatiæ.”
In Domesday, Berkeley appears as a royal demesne and free borough,
which had been held by the Confessor, and belonged to William, but was
held of him by Roger, called thence of Berkeley. It was the head of a soke
or barony, for attached to it were “Berews,” or members, in twenty-one
adjacent parishes. The castle is not mentioned, but in “Ness,” probably
Sharpness, was a castellum, or castellet, claimed by the same Roger. His
holding in the Liber Niger is set down as 2½ knights’ fees. He gave liberally
to Stanley Priory, and died there 1096. William, his nephew, succeeded, and
had a son Roger, father of Roger, who all held Berkeley, and are designated
by its name. This latter Roger was a partisan of King Stephen, and was
turned out of Berkeley by Henry, who gave Berkeley to Robert, son of
Hardinge, Præpositus of Bristol, who died 1170, 16 Henry II., aged seventy-
five, leaving Maurice Fitzhardinge, his son. To stanch the feud between the
dispossessed and the new lord, Henry made up a double alliance: Helen,
daughter of Fitzhardinge, was married to a son of Roger de Berkeley, and
Alice, Roger’s daughter, to Maurice Fitzhardinge of Berkeley. The result
was that the old Berkeleys fell back upon their manor of Cuberley, and
finally died out, and the Fitzhardinges, with the estate, bore the surname of
Berkeley, and have so continued. At that time the Manor or Lordship,
sometimes called the Honour of Berkeley, included above thirty parishes,
and extended over most of the hundred. It was rated at 160 hides, and paid a
chief rent of £70.
Henry, at the time of the gift, was only Duke of Normandy, and weak,
and Fitzhardinge was an important man; hence the duke treats as equal with
equal, and with the estate makes a promise to build him a castle to his taste.
“Et pepigi ei firmare ibi castellum secundum voluntatem ipsius Roberti,”
and, on the other hand, Robert promises to be Henry’s liege. Henry visited
Berkeley in 1155, when, no doubt, the present castle was begun. Henry’s
charter is in excellent preservation, and is kept at Berkeley.
Page 269
Another charter by Henry, when king, also there preserved, confirms to
Robert Fitzhardinge, Berkelai-Herness Manor by the service of one knight,
or, if he prefer it, 100 shillings per annum. A third charter is almost a copy
of the second, but states the service at five knights, and is silent as to the
composition. There is also a charter printed by Dugdale, by which Robert
Fitzhardinge grants certain churches to St. Augustine’s at Bristol. These are
the earliest title-deeds of the family. St. Augustine’s was founded by this
Robert in 1142, and consecrated in 1148. He died 1170.
Maurice, son of Robert, is said to have dug the ditch between the castle
and the church. He probably deepened it. He also is reputed to have built
the castle exterior to King Henry’s keep, including the two gatehouses. He
died in 1189.
Robert, his son, bore the name of Berkeley. He was in arms against John,
who held the castle from 1211 till his death in 1216. Lord Robert died 1220.
His brother, Lord Thomas, received Henry III. here in 1220. He died 1243.
Maurice, his son, here entertained Prince Edward in 1256. He added to the
estates, and is said to have strengthened the castle. Thomas, his son, sixth
lord, was a great soldier, and served at Bannockburn. He died 1321.
Maurice, his son, took part against the Despensers, and was imprisoned by
the king till his death, in 1326. Edward seized the castle, which was held by
the Despensers. Lord Thomas, his son and successor, received Edward II.
here as a captive, 15th April, 1327, and here the king seems to have been
murdered by Maltravers and Gournay, 21st September, 1327. A payment
was charged to the Exchequer for prayers for his soul in the castle chapel.
Lord Thomas held the castle from 1326 till his death in 1361. He fought
at Cressy and Poitiers, and probably made money in the wars, for he is
reputed to have made great alterations in the castle, and probably the hall
and the Decorated work generally is his doing. He is said to have built
Thorpe Tower. He may have raised it, but it is apparently as old as the keep.
The Berkeley arch, seen in great perfection in St. Augustine’s Church, now
Bristol Cathedral, and here introduced, as was proper, in a plainer form, is
attributed to Knowle, Abbot of St. Augustine’s, from 1306 to 1332. The
connexion of the Berkeleys with the monks of St. Augustine’s was intimate,
and the same architect was likely enough to be employed by both.
Robert Fitzhardinge, Berkelai-Herness Manor by the service of one knight,
or, if he prefer it, 100 shillings per annum. A third charter is almost a copy
of the second, but states the service at five knights, and is silent as to the
composition. There is also a charter printed by Dugdale, by which Robert
Fitzhardinge grants certain churches to St. Augustine’s at Bristol. These are
the earliest title-deeds of the family. St. Augustine’s was founded by this
Robert in 1142, and consecrated in 1148. He died 1170.
Maurice, son of Robert, is said to have dug the ditch between the castle
and the church. He probably deepened it. He also is reputed to have built
the castle exterior to King Henry’s keep, including the two gatehouses. He
died in 1189.
Robert, his son, bore the name of Berkeley. He was in arms against John,
who held the castle from 1211 till his death in 1216. Lord Robert died 1220.
His brother, Lord Thomas, received Henry III. here in 1220. He died 1243.
Maurice, his son, here entertained Prince Edward in 1256. He added to the
estates, and is said to have strengthened the castle. Thomas, his son, sixth
lord, was a great soldier, and served at Bannockburn. He died 1321.
Maurice, his son, took part against the Despensers, and was imprisoned by
the king till his death, in 1326. Edward seized the castle, which was held by
the Despensers. Lord Thomas, his son and successor, received Edward II.
here as a captive, 15th April, 1327, and here the king seems to have been
murdered by Maltravers and Gournay, 21st September, 1327. A payment
was charged to the Exchequer for prayers for his soul in the castle chapel.
Lord Thomas held the castle from 1326 till his death in 1361. He fought
at Cressy and Poitiers, and probably made money in the wars, for he is
reputed to have made great alterations in the castle, and probably the hall
and the Decorated work generally is his doing. He is said to have built
Thorpe Tower. He may have raised it, but it is apparently as old as the keep.
The Berkeley arch, seen in great perfection in St. Augustine’s Church, now
Bristol Cathedral, and here introduced, as was proper, in a plainer form, is
attributed to Knowle, Abbot of St. Augustine’s, from 1306 to 1332. The
connexion of the Berkeleys with the monks of St. Augustine’s was intimate,
and the same architect was likely enough to be employed by both.
Page 270
Another Thomas, grandson to the former, here received Richard II., in
1386–7. This is the Lord Berkeley mentioned in “Shakespeare’s Richard
II.,” when the castle is described as—
“Mann’d with three hundred men, as I have heard,
And in it are the Lords of York, Berkeley, and Seymour.”
Lord Thomas pronounced the deposition of Richard in Parliament in
1399. John of Trevisa, whose translations from the Apocalypse are yet seen
on the ribs of the chapel roof at Berkeley, was vicar of this parish during the
life of this lord. Lord Thomas left a daughter only, married to Richard
Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who strove hard, but in vain, to oust the heir
male, James de Berkeley. Lord Warwick appeared before the castle in 1418
with an armed force, and his heirs preferred a suit at law which lasted 150
years, varied with occasional combats, one of which, known as the battle of
Nibley Green, led to the settlement of the dispute, Lord Lisle, the claimant,
being slain in the field by William Lord Berkeley. William, the next lord,
was created Earl of Nottingham by Richard III., and Marquis of Berkeley
by Henry VII., in return for which he alienated the estate from his brother
and male heir in favour of the latter king and his heirs male, nor did the
Berkeleys recover it until the death of Edward VI. and the failure of the
royal male line, when the castle was recovered by Henry, who resumed the
title of Berkeley, after an alienation of 61 years 4 months and 20 days.
Henry VII. is said to have erected the kitchen, but probably he only put a
new roof upon it.
During the Parliamentary struggle, the Lord of Berkeley seems to have
been a moderate Royalist, with strong friends among the Parliamentary
leaders. In 1642 it was surrendered to Lieutenant-Colonel Arthur Forbes,
for the Parliament, but was not pillaged, and even the arms contained in it
were not removed. Probably this moderation was abused, for, 24th
September, 1645, being held by Sir Charles Lucas, it was stormed from the
churchyard by Colonels Rainsborough and Morgan, and free plunder
allowed to the soldiery. Fortunately, at the moment of victory, a pressing
order came for the march of the troops to assist Fairfax, on which the
plunder was compounded for at 5s. a head. Such goods as were taken away
were inquired after and restored, and the chief mischief seems to have been
confined to the muniment room, where the charters and title-deeds were
1386–7. This is the Lord Berkeley mentioned in “Shakespeare’s Richard
II.,” when the castle is described as—
“Mann’d with three hundred men, as I have heard,
And in it are the Lords of York, Berkeley, and Seymour.”
Lord Thomas pronounced the deposition of Richard in Parliament in
1399. John of Trevisa, whose translations from the Apocalypse are yet seen
on the ribs of the chapel roof at Berkeley, was vicar of this parish during the
life of this lord. Lord Thomas left a daughter only, married to Richard
Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who strove hard, but in vain, to oust the heir
male, James de Berkeley. Lord Warwick appeared before the castle in 1418
with an armed force, and his heirs preferred a suit at law which lasted 150
years, varied with occasional combats, one of which, known as the battle of
Nibley Green, led to the settlement of the dispute, Lord Lisle, the claimant,
being slain in the field by William Lord Berkeley. William, the next lord,
was created Earl of Nottingham by Richard III., and Marquis of Berkeley
by Henry VII., in return for which he alienated the estate from his brother
and male heir in favour of the latter king and his heirs male, nor did the
Berkeleys recover it until the death of Edward VI. and the failure of the
royal male line, when the castle was recovered by Henry, who resumed the
title of Berkeley, after an alienation of 61 years 4 months and 20 days.
Henry VII. is said to have erected the kitchen, but probably he only put a
new roof upon it.
During the Parliamentary struggle, the Lord of Berkeley seems to have
been a moderate Royalist, with strong friends among the Parliamentary
leaders. In 1642 it was surrendered to Lieutenant-Colonel Arthur Forbes,
for the Parliament, but was not pillaged, and even the arms contained in it
were not removed. Probably this moderation was abused, for, 24th
September, 1645, being held by Sir Charles Lucas, it was stormed from the
churchyard by Colonels Rainsborough and Morgan, and free plunder
allowed to the soldiery. Fortunately, at the moment of victory, a pressing
order came for the march of the troops to assist Fairfax, on which the
plunder was compounded for at 5s. a head. Such goods as were taken away
were inquired after and restored, and the chief mischief seems to have been
confined to the muniment room, where the charters and title-deeds were
Page 271
torn and mutilated. In 1646 the out-works were destroyed, and the arms,
ammunition, and drawbridge removed to Gloucester. Probably the great
breach was then made by the workmen employed upon the earthworks,
which would account for the careful manner in which the wall has been cut
away.
George, Lord Berkeley, was created in 1679, by Charles II., Viscount
Dursley and Earl of Berkeley, titles still extant.
ammunition, and drawbridge removed to Gloucester. Probably the great
breach was then made by the workmen employed upon the earthworks,
which would account for the careful manner in which the wall has been cut
away.
George, Lord Berkeley, was created in 1679, by Charles II., Viscount
Dursley and Earl of Berkeley, titles still extant.
Page 272
BODIHAM CASTLE, SUSSEX.
ABOUT four miles below the ancient Priory of Robertsbridge, and
fourteen, by its own sinuous course, above its junction with the sea below
the old Cinque Port of Rye, the Rother, a considerable Sussex river, receives
from the north an important tributary known as the Kent Ditch, and, time
out of mind, the boundary of the two counties. The waters meet obliquely,
and between them intervenes a tongue or cape of high land tapering and
falling gradually towards the junction, and occupied by the church, village,
and castle of Bodiham.
Who was Bodi, or Bode, whose home was here established, is unknown.
He was evidently a Saxon, and from the position of his estate, probably an
early one, giving name it may be to a tract won in arms from the Britons.
Ham is here a very common termination to the proper names of places,
varied with Hurst and Den and Ley, and other less frequent but equally
Saxon denominations.
The church stands on the high ground, a little north of the centre of the
cape, the castle about 600 yards to the south of it, and about half the
distance from the Rother, at some thirty feet or so above its level. The
Rother, here and lower down, traverses broad patches of lowland, now
fertile meadow, but in former days evidently inaccessible morass. The
position, therefore, between the two streams with their marshy banks was
defended by nature towards the south and east, the quarter from which, after
the complete expulsion of the Britons and during the early Saxon period,
danger was mainly to be apprehended.
The earlier lords, both Saxon and Norman, who gave name to, and
derived their names from, Bodiham, pitched their homestead on the north
side of the high ground, some way from the church, and upon the right bank
of the Kent Ditch, where the site is still indicated by some earthworks and a
moat. Nearer to, but south of the church, on the brow of the hill, above the
present castle, are the remains of another earthwork, rectangular and oblong
ABOUT four miles below the ancient Priory of Robertsbridge, and
fourteen, by its own sinuous course, above its junction with the sea below
the old Cinque Port of Rye, the Rother, a considerable Sussex river, receives
from the north an important tributary known as the Kent Ditch, and, time
out of mind, the boundary of the two counties. The waters meet obliquely,
and between them intervenes a tongue or cape of high land tapering and
falling gradually towards the junction, and occupied by the church, village,
and castle of Bodiham.
Who was Bodi, or Bode, whose home was here established, is unknown.
He was evidently a Saxon, and from the position of his estate, probably an
early one, giving name it may be to a tract won in arms from the Britons.
Ham is here a very common termination to the proper names of places,
varied with Hurst and Den and Ley, and other less frequent but equally
Saxon denominations.
The church stands on the high ground, a little north of the centre of the
cape, the castle about 600 yards to the south of it, and about half the
distance from the Rother, at some thirty feet or so above its level. The
Rother, here and lower down, traverses broad patches of lowland, now
fertile meadow, but in former days evidently inaccessible morass. The
position, therefore, between the two streams with their marshy banks was
defended by nature towards the south and east, the quarter from which, after
the complete expulsion of the Britons and during the early Saxon period,
danger was mainly to be apprehended.
The earlier lords, both Saxon and Norman, who gave name to, and
derived their names from, Bodiham, pitched their homestead on the north
side of the high ground, some way from the church, and upon the right bank
of the Kent Ditch, where the site is still indicated by some earthworks and a
moat. Nearer to, but south of the church, on the brow of the hill, above the
present castle, are the remains of another earthwork, rectangular and oblong
Page 273
in form, the site probably either of an early residence or a still earlier
encampment.
Below this brow, on the southern verge of and just within the slope, it
pleased a Lord of Bodiham, having become so by marriage with its heiress,
to establish a new residence. Sir Edward Dalingruge, a successful soldier in
the rough school of the Black Prince and his captains, of whom his
immediate chief, Sir William Knollys, was one of the roughest, having held
offices of trust under Richard II., decided here to build a castle suitable to
his rank, wealth, and military fame; and having, in the 9th of Richard,
1385–6, obtained the royal licence, he constructed at a vast cost, both in
earthwork and masonry, the castle here described.
Bodiham is a building of very high interest. It is a complete and typical
castle of the end of the fourteenth century, laid out entirely upon a new site,
and constructed after one design, and at one period. It but seldom happens
that a great fortress is wholly original, of one, and that a known, date, and
so completely free from alterations or additions. It has, moreover, fallen
into good hands. Enough, and not too much, has been done to arrest the
effects of time and weather. The repairs have been well executed, and in
Wadhurst stone, the proper material; and, though well watched, it is open to
all who care to visit it.
In plan and details Bodiham belongs to the early Perpendicular style, and
occupies a mean position between Caerphilly, a work late in the thirteenth
century, and Wressil, only a few years later than Bodiham in time, but much
later in style and arrangements. Like these castles, it has no keep, and its
domestic buildings are constructed within and against the walls of a court,
but while Caerphilly, like Harlech and Ledes, is concentric, and has a
narrow outer ward, Bodiham and Wressil, like Bolton, have but one ward,
one line of defences, and are only rectangular enclosures, with strong and
lofty curtains, flanked by still more lofty mural towers. Pennard in Gower,
though of the reign of Henry III. or his son, is, on a small scale, of the same
general type as Bodiham.
Save the adjacent river and the marsh, the immediate site of Bodiham
possesses no natural advantages. A sort of platform was selected upon the
sloping ground, about 30 feet above the river’s level, and in it was
excavated a rectangular basin, 180 yards north and south, by 117 yards east
encampment.
Below this brow, on the southern verge of and just within the slope, it
pleased a Lord of Bodiham, having become so by marriage with its heiress,
to establish a new residence. Sir Edward Dalingruge, a successful soldier in
the rough school of the Black Prince and his captains, of whom his
immediate chief, Sir William Knollys, was one of the roughest, having held
offices of trust under Richard II., decided here to build a castle suitable to
his rank, wealth, and military fame; and having, in the 9th of Richard,
1385–6, obtained the royal licence, he constructed at a vast cost, both in
earthwork and masonry, the castle here described.
Bodiham is a building of very high interest. It is a complete and typical
castle of the end of the fourteenth century, laid out entirely upon a new site,
and constructed after one design, and at one period. It but seldom happens
that a great fortress is wholly original, of one, and that a known, date, and
so completely free from alterations or additions. It has, moreover, fallen
into good hands. Enough, and not too much, has been done to arrest the
effects of time and weather. The repairs have been well executed, and in
Wadhurst stone, the proper material; and, though well watched, it is open to
all who care to visit it.
In plan and details Bodiham belongs to the early Perpendicular style, and
occupies a mean position between Caerphilly, a work late in the thirteenth
century, and Wressil, only a few years later than Bodiham in time, but much
later in style and arrangements. Like these castles, it has no keep, and its
domestic buildings are constructed within and against the walls of a court,
but while Caerphilly, like Harlech and Ledes, is concentric, and has a
narrow outer ward, Bodiham and Wressil, like Bolton, have but one ward,
one line of defences, and are only rectangular enclosures, with strong and
lofty curtains, flanked by still more lofty mural towers. Pennard in Gower,
though of the reign of Henry III. or his son, is, on a small scale, of the same
general type as Bodiham.
Save the adjacent river and the marsh, the immediate site of Bodiham
possesses no natural advantages. A sort of platform was selected upon the
sloping ground, about 30 feet above the river’s level, and in it was
excavated a rectangular basin, 180 yards north and south, by 117 yards east
Page 274
and west, and about 7 deep. To the east, the containing bank was wholly
artificial, formed of the excavated material, as was also the case with the
contiguous parts to the north and south. The remaining part of the south
bank was also slightly raised.
On the west side, near the north end, a small natural combe descended
towards the excavation, of which, being wet, it was regarded as the future
feeder. A strong dam was thrown across the lower part of this combe,
between it and the excavation, of which it thus formed the bank. No doubt
the pool so penned in was intended as a store pond when the moat was low.
In the centre, or nearly so, of the excavation, was left a rectangular island
of rather above half an acre in area, raised artificially about four feet, and to
be occupied by the future castle, of which the ground plan would thus be a
plot of about 50 yards by 46 yards, surrounded by a wet moat from 35 to 65
yards broad. At present a sluice is provided for the occasional emptying of
the moat, and probably something of the sort was originally constructed,
though it would, of course, be concealed. The fact is, however, that a few
vigorous workmen could at any time have cut through the bank in a few
hours, and thus have deprived the castle of one of its defences. The mud,
however, until dry, would be even a better protector than the water.
Bodiham Castle, then, is a rectangular enclosure 152 feet north and
south, by 138 feet east and west, contained within four curtain walls. At
each angle is a drum tower, 29 feet diameter, and of three quarters
projection, flanking the several faces. In the centre of the north face is the
great, and of the south face the lesser, gatehouse, and in the centre of each
of the other faces is a square tower. There are thus eight mural towers, four
cylindrical, and four rectangular, giving an agreeable variety to the outline.
Besides these there is a projection from the east face of 8 feet, containing
part of the chapel and the sacristy. The walls and towers all rise direct from
the water. The curtain is 40 feet 6 inches high from the water to the crest of
the parapet, and the towers are one-third higher, or 54 feet. The outer walls
generally are 6 feet 6 inches thick, which is also the height of the parapets.
The stair turrets rise 14 feet higher than their towers, and the chimneys
about 9 feet. Both are octagonal, and are crested with miniature battlements
in the late Perpendicular manner. There is no water gate or postern, such as
those at Ledes and Caerphilly.
artificial, formed of the excavated material, as was also the case with the
contiguous parts to the north and south. The remaining part of the south
bank was also slightly raised.
On the west side, near the north end, a small natural combe descended
towards the excavation, of which, being wet, it was regarded as the future
feeder. A strong dam was thrown across the lower part of this combe,
between it and the excavation, of which it thus formed the bank. No doubt
the pool so penned in was intended as a store pond when the moat was low.
In the centre, or nearly so, of the excavation, was left a rectangular island
of rather above half an acre in area, raised artificially about four feet, and to
be occupied by the future castle, of which the ground plan would thus be a
plot of about 50 yards by 46 yards, surrounded by a wet moat from 35 to 65
yards broad. At present a sluice is provided for the occasional emptying of
the moat, and probably something of the sort was originally constructed,
though it would, of course, be concealed. The fact is, however, that a few
vigorous workmen could at any time have cut through the bank in a few
hours, and thus have deprived the castle of one of its defences. The mud,
however, until dry, would be even a better protector than the water.
Bodiham Castle, then, is a rectangular enclosure 152 feet north and
south, by 138 feet east and west, contained within four curtain walls. At
each angle is a drum tower, 29 feet diameter, and of three quarters
projection, flanking the several faces. In the centre of the north face is the
great, and of the south face the lesser, gatehouse, and in the centre of each
of the other faces is a square tower. There are thus eight mural towers, four
cylindrical, and four rectangular, giving an agreeable variety to the outline.
Besides these there is a projection from the east face of 8 feet, containing
part of the chapel and the sacristy. The walls and towers all rise direct from
the water. The curtain is 40 feet 6 inches high from the water to the crest of
the parapet, and the towers are one-third higher, or 54 feet. The outer walls
generally are 6 feet 6 inches thick, which is also the height of the parapets.
The stair turrets rise 14 feet higher than their towers, and the chimneys
about 9 feet. Both are octagonal, and are crested with miniature battlements
in the late Perpendicular manner. There is no water gate or postern, such as
those at Ledes and Caerphilly.
Page 275
The great gatehouse is a very imposing structure. It is in plan a T, the
horizontal limb forming the front of 30 feet breadth, and the vertical limb
extending backwards as far, and containing the entrance passage. The front
is composed of two towers, rectangular, but having the angles largely
recessed, so as to throw forward the central part of each tower as a bold
buttress, 15 feet broad by 6 feet deep. The whole projects from the curtain
about 15 feet, and between the towers, deeply sunk, is the gateway.
The gateway has a slightly four-centred arch, very plain, and set in the
usual square-headed shallow recess, intended apparently to receive the
platform of the bridge when lifted. There are traces of the chain holes in the
spandrels. The whole is placed in a deeper and plain recess, terminating
above in a four-centred arch, which carries the parapet, and has behind it
three machicolations which protect the entrance. Over the door is the usual
portcullis chamber window, and right and left other windows, all small and
lancet, some trefoil-headed, and some plain. Two pairs of loops command
the approach, one pair has oylet holes at each end of the slit. The other pair
have holes, rather larger, at the lower end only. It is the style of loop that
marks the introduction of fire-arms. In the jambs of the portal is a half-
round portcullis groove, and a little within a pair of folding doors. The
entrance passage, 12 feet broad and 30 feet long, is unusually lofty. It is
divided by a cross arch into two chambers, both vaulted. The first, 18 feet
long, has on the right and left small lancet doors, leading by a narrow
vaulted and ribbed mural passage into the lodges, 11 feet by 10 feet. On the
left is a second door opening on a circular well-stair, 8 feet diameter, and
unusually steep, leading to the upper chambers and roof, and terminating in
a turret at the angle of the gatehouse. The vaulting has fallen in, but it is
clear that it resembled that of the second chamber. Beneath the cross
archway is a second portcullis, and beyond it the second part of the passage.
This is 12 feet square, without lateral doorways, and vaulted. The vault is of
four cells, three ribs and two half or wall-ribs springing from each corner
corbel, and meeting in one central, four lateral, and four half bosses, placed
upon two cross or ridge ribs. They are pierced as in the inner ward gate of
the Tower of London, and possibly each contained a flower. The openings
are, of the central boss 6 inches, and of the others, 4 inches diameter. These
apertures can scarcely have been meant for defence; they are too small, and
do not command the four corners of the passage. No doubt a long pike
might be thrust down some of them, but scarcely, to be of use, down the
horizontal limb forming the front of 30 feet breadth, and the vertical limb
extending backwards as far, and containing the entrance passage. The front
is composed of two towers, rectangular, but having the angles largely
recessed, so as to throw forward the central part of each tower as a bold
buttress, 15 feet broad by 6 feet deep. The whole projects from the curtain
about 15 feet, and between the towers, deeply sunk, is the gateway.
The gateway has a slightly four-centred arch, very plain, and set in the
usual square-headed shallow recess, intended apparently to receive the
platform of the bridge when lifted. There are traces of the chain holes in the
spandrels. The whole is placed in a deeper and plain recess, terminating
above in a four-centred arch, which carries the parapet, and has behind it
three machicolations which protect the entrance. Over the door is the usual
portcullis chamber window, and right and left other windows, all small and
lancet, some trefoil-headed, and some plain. Two pairs of loops command
the approach, one pair has oylet holes at each end of the slit. The other pair
have holes, rather larger, at the lower end only. It is the style of loop that
marks the introduction of fire-arms. In the jambs of the portal is a half-
round portcullis groove, and a little within a pair of folding doors. The
entrance passage, 12 feet broad and 30 feet long, is unusually lofty. It is
divided by a cross arch into two chambers, both vaulted. The first, 18 feet
long, has on the right and left small lancet doors, leading by a narrow
vaulted and ribbed mural passage into the lodges, 11 feet by 10 feet. On the
left is a second door opening on a circular well-stair, 8 feet diameter, and
unusually steep, leading to the upper chambers and roof, and terminating in
a turret at the angle of the gatehouse. The vaulting has fallen in, but it is
clear that it resembled that of the second chamber. Beneath the cross
archway is a second portcullis, and beyond it the second part of the passage.
This is 12 feet square, without lateral doorways, and vaulted. The vault is of
four cells, three ribs and two half or wall-ribs springing from each corner
corbel, and meeting in one central, four lateral, and four half bosses, placed
upon two cross or ridge ribs. They are pierced as in the inner ward gate of
the Tower of London, and possibly each contained a flower. The openings
are, of the central boss 6 inches, and of the others, 4 inches diameter. These
apertures can scarcely have been meant for defence; they are too small, and
do not command the four corners of the passage. No doubt a long pike
might be thrust down some of them, but scarcely, to be of use, down the
Page 276
half holes next the walls. As to pouring down melted lead, pitch, or oil, such
articles were always too expensive to form a part of the regular munitions
against a siege, nor is there here, nor in portcullis chambers generally, any
furnace for heating such materials in any quantity.
The portal leading from this passage into the inner court has a second
pair of doors, and beyond them a second portcullis. This chamber is not a
part of the regular gatehouse. It forms a sort of porch projecting from it into
the court, and has no upper story. A well-stair on the left opened from the
court, and led up to the embattled platform which rested on the vault. This
subsidiary prolongation of the length and defences of the entrance passage
is believed to be peculiar to Bodiham.
Over the outer part of the passage is the portcullis chamber. It has at each
end a low four-centred arch, which concealed the head of the grate, when
lifted, and above this, at each end, is the customary small window. The
lobby between the well-stair and this chamber is groined and ribbed, and in
the centre is a large boss carved in foliage. The gatehouse lodges have a pit
or sub-basement, perhaps a cellar, perhaps merely a cavity to keep the
floors dry. If cellars, they were entered by traps in the floor above. There
are also, above the basement, two upper floors.
The lesser gatehouse is placed opposite to the main gate, in the centre of
the southern face of the castle, and though equally lofty, is much smaller. It
is a plain tower 22 feet square, projecting 15 feet in advance of the curtain,
but with no internal projection. The outer gate is in the centre of the tower,
and had a portcullis, and behind it were folding doors. The entrance passage
is 11 feet square, vaulted as the great gateway, but not so lofty. Right and
left are loops raking the curtain. A door in the west wall opens into the usual
well-stair, contained within the north-west angle. There is no lodge. The
inner portal was closed by doors only. It opened into a passage at the lower
end of the great hall.
In front of, and outside this gatehouse, there project 9 feet into the moat
two walls about 3 feet thick. They seem to have contained between them a
bridge pit, over which a bridge dropped from the gateway, upon a cross wall
which remains. The pit is filled up. Opposite, the counterscarp of the moat,
62 yards distant, is revetted, and from it projects a half-hexagonal pier. How
this intervening space was traversed is not now seen. Scarcely by a boat, for
articles were always too expensive to form a part of the regular munitions
against a siege, nor is there here, nor in portcullis chambers generally, any
furnace for heating such materials in any quantity.
The portal leading from this passage into the inner court has a second
pair of doors, and beyond them a second portcullis. This chamber is not a
part of the regular gatehouse. It forms a sort of porch projecting from it into
the court, and has no upper story. A well-stair on the left opened from the
court, and led up to the embattled platform which rested on the vault. This
subsidiary prolongation of the length and defences of the entrance passage
is believed to be peculiar to Bodiham.
Over the outer part of the passage is the portcullis chamber. It has at each
end a low four-centred arch, which concealed the head of the grate, when
lifted, and above this, at each end, is the customary small window. The
lobby between the well-stair and this chamber is groined and ribbed, and in
the centre is a large boss carved in foliage. The gatehouse lodges have a pit
or sub-basement, perhaps a cellar, perhaps merely a cavity to keep the
floors dry. If cellars, they were entered by traps in the floor above. There
are also, above the basement, two upper floors.
The lesser gatehouse is placed opposite to the main gate, in the centre of
the southern face of the castle, and though equally lofty, is much smaller. It
is a plain tower 22 feet square, projecting 15 feet in advance of the curtain,
but with no internal projection. The outer gate is in the centre of the tower,
and had a portcullis, and behind it were folding doors. The entrance passage
is 11 feet square, vaulted as the great gateway, but not so lofty. Right and
left are loops raking the curtain. A door in the west wall opens into the usual
well-stair, contained within the north-west angle. There is no lodge. The
inner portal was closed by doors only. It opened into a passage at the lower
end of the great hall.
In front of, and outside this gatehouse, there project 9 feet into the moat
two walls about 3 feet thick. They seem to have contained between them a
bridge pit, over which a bridge dropped from the gateway, upon a cross wall
which remains. The pit is filled up. Opposite, the counterscarp of the moat,
62 yards distant, is revetted, and from it projects a half-hexagonal pier. How
this intervening space was traversed is not now seen. Scarcely by a boat, for
Page 277
the pier is evidently intended to support a timber bridge, and a boat could
not conveniently be reached from it. Probably there was a footway upon
tressels or wooden piers.
Thus much of the two gatehouses, the only towers which are
machicolated. Each leads into the court of the castle, an open space 86 feet
south and north, by 76 feet east and west; round which are placed, against
the curtains, the domestic buildings, 22 to 30 feet in depth, some of one
floor, some of two, but all of nearly equal height, and so placed as to
conceal the curtain and the lower parts of the towers from the inner court.
Right and left of the great gatehouse the buildings had a ground and first
floor. Those on the left, or to the east, were rather more ornate, as being
nearer to the state apartments. The north-east and north-west towers
communicated on each side with these rooms. They have sub-basement pits,
with loops, a ground and two upper floors. They differ somewhat in details,
but each has a well-stair in its gorge wall, and mural closets and fireplaces
at the several levels. The pits are circular, the chambers above hexagonal.
Along the west side are offices, and probably servants’ apartments, and
rooms for the garrison. In the centre a large and handsome doorway, with a
window on each side and traces of a porch, opens into a small kitchen, a
room 21 feet by 16 feet, having on each side a fireplace, with a converging
tunnel, and an arched head of 12 feet span and 2 feet rise. There is no hood
or projection. The roof was open, and at the battlement level. A gallery
seems to have run across above the door, entered from the room to the
south, and beneath it in the wall is also a door.
The enclosure next south seems to have been of two floors. The lower
room, 38 feet by 22 feet, was probably for stores or for the servants; the
upper was the lesser hall. The lower room had two windows to the court
and a small door, and perhaps between the windows a shallow fireplace
with a bold hood. Above was a noble room of the same size. The lower
room opened into the west tower. This, like the east tower, is 25 feet broad,
by 21 feet deep, and of 15 feet projection from the curtain. The sub-
basement here was evidently a cellar. It has three loops a little above the
water-level. A well-stair in the south-east angle leads upwards from the
ground-level.
not conveniently be reached from it. Probably there was a footway upon
tressels or wooden piers.
Thus much of the two gatehouses, the only towers which are
machicolated. Each leads into the court of the castle, an open space 86 feet
south and north, by 76 feet east and west; round which are placed, against
the curtains, the domestic buildings, 22 to 30 feet in depth, some of one
floor, some of two, but all of nearly equal height, and so placed as to
conceal the curtain and the lower parts of the towers from the inner court.
Right and left of the great gatehouse the buildings had a ground and first
floor. Those on the left, or to the east, were rather more ornate, as being
nearer to the state apartments. The north-east and north-west towers
communicated on each side with these rooms. They have sub-basement pits,
with loops, a ground and two upper floors. They differ somewhat in details,
but each has a well-stair in its gorge wall, and mural closets and fireplaces
at the several levels. The pits are circular, the chambers above hexagonal.
Along the west side are offices, and probably servants’ apartments, and
rooms for the garrison. In the centre a large and handsome doorway, with a
window on each side and traces of a porch, opens into a small kitchen, a
room 21 feet by 16 feet, having on each side a fireplace, with a converging
tunnel, and an arched head of 12 feet span and 2 feet rise. There is no hood
or projection. The roof was open, and at the battlement level. A gallery
seems to have run across above the door, entered from the room to the
south, and beneath it in the wall is also a door.
The enclosure next south seems to have been of two floors. The lower
room, 38 feet by 22 feet, was probably for stores or for the servants; the
upper was the lesser hall. The lower room had two windows to the court
and a small door, and perhaps between the windows a shallow fireplace
with a bold hood. Above was a noble room of the same size. The lower
room opened into the west tower. This, like the east tower, is 25 feet broad,
by 21 feet deep, and of 15 feet projection from the curtain. The sub-
basement here was evidently a cellar. It has three loops a little above the
water-level. A well-stair in the south-east angle leads upwards from the
ground-level.
Page 278
Along the south side were placed the great kitchen, buttery, and great
hall. The kitchen, 33 feet by 24 feet, occupies the south-west angle, and
communicates with the adjacent angle tower. It has two large fireplaces, of
12 feet span, in the north and south walls. The former has an oven in its
west jamb, an afterthought, as it projects into the adjacent room. The other
had a large stone hood, of which one springing stone remains, and is
buttressed by a corbel, placed in the hollow angle to receive its thrust, as at
St. Briavels. The kitchen had an open, lofty roof. Next is the buttery, of two
floors, with traces of a cellar below. It is 18 feet by 24 feet, and opened into
the hall by three equilaterally arched doorways side by side, each towards
the hall, having a deep hollow early Perpendicular moulding. These opened
into a passage under the music-gallery.
The hall was about 50 feet long by 26 feet broad, with an open roof. It
had, at the dais end of the south wall, a window of two lights, with a
transom; the lower pair square-headed, the upper pair pointed. The whole is
in a recess, with a flat segmental arch. There are said to have been two
windows in the north wall, looking into the court, and here probably was
the fireplace, for fireplaces and not central hearths seem to have been in
fashion here. The hall door remains. It is a handsome archway with a
double ogee moulding. It opened below the music-gallery, and at the other
end of this passage was the entrance to the lesser gatehouse, so that there
was access from the court to the gate, through a passage screened off from
the occupied part of the hall. Of course, the lesser gateway was used for
foot-passengers only. A passage somewhat similar crosses the lower end,
not of the hall itself, but of the vaults below the hall, at Kenilworth.
The state apartments and chapel occupied the east side, and the former
seem mostly to have been of two floors.
Behind the end of the hall was a large room, called the armoury, from
which opened the south-east tower. Here the sub-basement is hexagonal,
and was vaulted and groined. The vaulting has fallen away, but the corbels
remain, and the six gables and wall-ribs. Probably this was a private store or
cellar, for it has no fire or garderobe, and though the vaulting was elegant,
the chamber, being at or a trifle below the water-level, must always have
been damp. The upper floors were of timber.
hall. The kitchen, 33 feet by 24 feet, occupies the south-west angle, and
communicates with the adjacent angle tower. It has two large fireplaces, of
12 feet span, in the north and south walls. The former has an oven in its
west jamb, an afterthought, as it projects into the adjacent room. The other
had a large stone hood, of which one springing stone remains, and is
buttressed by a corbel, placed in the hollow angle to receive its thrust, as at
St. Briavels. The kitchen had an open, lofty roof. Next is the buttery, of two
floors, with traces of a cellar below. It is 18 feet by 24 feet, and opened into
the hall by three equilaterally arched doorways side by side, each towards
the hall, having a deep hollow early Perpendicular moulding. These opened
into a passage under the music-gallery.
The hall was about 50 feet long by 26 feet broad, with an open roof. It
had, at the dais end of the south wall, a window of two lights, with a
transom; the lower pair square-headed, the upper pair pointed. The whole is
in a recess, with a flat segmental arch. There are said to have been two
windows in the north wall, looking into the court, and here probably was
the fireplace, for fireplaces and not central hearths seem to have been in
fashion here. The hall door remains. It is a handsome archway with a
double ogee moulding. It opened below the music-gallery, and at the other
end of this passage was the entrance to the lesser gatehouse, so that there
was access from the court to the gate, through a passage screened off from
the occupied part of the hall. Of course, the lesser gateway was used for
foot-passengers only. A passage somewhat similar crosses the lower end,
not of the hall itself, but of the vaults below the hall, at Kenilworth.
The state apartments and chapel occupied the east side, and the former
seem mostly to have been of two floors.
Behind the end of the hall was a large room, called the armoury, from
which opened the south-east tower. Here the sub-basement is hexagonal,
and was vaulted and groined. The vaulting has fallen away, but the corbels
remain, and the six gables and wall-ribs. Probably this was a private store or
cellar, for it has no fire or garderobe, and though the vaulting was elegant,
the chamber, being at or a trifle below the water-level, must always have
been damp. The upper floors were of timber.
Page 279
Probably the term armoury is modern, and here were the withdrawing-
rooms, to which a passage led from the north end of the dais, outside the
hall. There remains a platform of masonry, which seems to have been laid
to carry such a passage.
North of these rooms are traces of others, which communicated with the
east tower and chapel, and were probably private apartments, with windows
to the court. Under the whole was a range of cellars, below the court level,
but with doors and loops ascending to it.
Next comes the chapel, 29 feet by 19 feet, having a large pointed window
of three lights at the east end. The floor, of timber, covered a cellar, having
a loop, rising to the court, and a door in the south wall. The eastern end has
a solid raised platform for the altar, and near it a small north window. To the
south is a small plain-pointed piscina, and near it a lancet door, opening by
steps into a vaulted and groined mural chamber, 11 feet by 6 feet, intended
as a sacristy, having two lockers, and a small window to the moat. The
chapel door was in the south wall, leading from the lower private
apartments. Above the sacristy is a rather larger room, having a door from
the upper apartments, and a square-headed window, of two trefoiled lights,
looking into the chapel; evidently the lord’s private seat, whence, unseen,
he could be present at mass. There was no west door, or direct entrance
from the court. The chapel seems to have had an open timber roof.
The masonry throughout the castle is excellent ashlar, the material a fine-
grained, soft, but durable sandstone. There is but little ornament. There
were seven main well-staircases, each terminating in an octagonal turret,
serving as a head. The stairs did not ascend to the top of the turret, which
was domed over, and inaccessible. The rooms are almost all furnished with
fireplaces, and very many with mural garderobes which seem to have been
closed with curtains, or not at all, since there are no marks of doors. Their
shafts descend within the walls, and discharge into the moat below the
surface. The windows generally are small, that of the chapel and of the hall
are the only ones even of tolerable size, towards the moat.
The drum towers look older than their real date, their gorge-walls,
general proportions and arrangement, well-staircases, and lancet and often
trefoiled windows, savouring of the Edwardian period. Their hexagonal
interiors, however, and the bold and simple moulding that crowns their
rooms, to which a passage led from the north end of the dais, outside the
hall. There remains a platform of masonry, which seems to have been laid
to carry such a passage.
North of these rooms are traces of others, which communicated with the
east tower and chapel, and were probably private apartments, with windows
to the court. Under the whole was a range of cellars, below the court level,
but with doors and loops ascending to it.
Next comes the chapel, 29 feet by 19 feet, having a large pointed window
of three lights at the east end. The floor, of timber, covered a cellar, having
a loop, rising to the court, and a door in the south wall. The eastern end has
a solid raised platform for the altar, and near it a small north window. To the
south is a small plain-pointed piscina, and near it a lancet door, opening by
steps into a vaulted and groined mural chamber, 11 feet by 6 feet, intended
as a sacristy, having two lockers, and a small window to the moat. The
chapel door was in the south wall, leading from the lower private
apartments. Above the sacristy is a rather larger room, having a door from
the upper apartments, and a square-headed window, of two trefoiled lights,
looking into the chapel; evidently the lord’s private seat, whence, unseen,
he could be present at mass. There was no west door, or direct entrance
from the court. The chapel seems to have had an open timber roof.
The masonry throughout the castle is excellent ashlar, the material a fine-
grained, soft, but durable sandstone. There is but little ornament. There
were seven main well-staircases, each terminating in an octagonal turret,
serving as a head. The stairs did not ascend to the top of the turret, which
was domed over, and inaccessible. The rooms are almost all furnished with
fireplaces, and very many with mural garderobes which seem to have been
closed with curtains, or not at all, since there are no marks of doors. Their
shafts descend within the walls, and discharge into the moat below the
surface. The windows generally are small, that of the chapel and of the hall
are the only ones even of tolerable size, towards the moat.
The drum towers look older than their real date, their gorge-walls,
general proportions and arrangement, well-staircases, and lancet and often
trefoiled windows, savouring of the Edwardian period. Their hexagonal
interiors, however, and the bold and simple moulding that crowns their
Page 280
parapets, belong to the Perpendicular style. The chimneys throughout are
octagonal, well-proportioned, but plain, save the embattled moulding
above. They may be later than the castle.
The three armorial shields over the great gateway represent Bodiham or
Bodeham, Dalingruge, and Wardeux. The central, being that of the founder,
is placed angle-wise beneath his helmet and crest. There were also three
shields above the lesser gateway. One was, no doubt, Dalingruge, as before,
another was Knollys, out of compliment to that commander.
The battlements generally have a plain ∧ coping, with a beaded ridge
towards the field. The merlons are much broader than the embrasures, but
are not pierced. The coping is not repeated in the embrasures. No well has
been discovered, nor any lead piping, as at Ledes, where the castle was
supplied with pure water from a spring at some little distance. On the
whole, the castle, for its period, is unusually severe in its arrangements,
there being scarcely any traces of luxury. It was a castle, not a manor house,
nor palace.
There remains to be described a very singular feature in this castle, the
approach to the great gateway. At present, a causeway of earth, about 6 feet
broad, springs from the north bank of the moat, and proceeds direct, about
62 feet, towards the opposite gateway. It then stops abruptly, and its head is
revetted in masonry, which, however, is modern. Opposite, 11 feet distant,
the water flowing between, is an octagon of 16 feet on each face, or 40 feet
diameter, rising as an island out of the moat, and revetted all round. There
was evidently a shifting bridge of some kind between this octagon and the
causeway. Whether this octagon carried any superstructure is uncertain,
probably it had only the parapet, of which traces remain.
Crossing the octagon in the same straight line, there is reached a second
gap, of 6 feet, and beyond this is a rectangular island about 21 feet north
and south, by 20 feet broad, also revetted all round, and on which revetment
stood the walls of the barbican. This was, therefore, a rectangular building,
traversed by the entrance passage, and having a doorway at either end, the
outer guarded by a portcullis, and the inner by doors. The passage was
vaulted and apparently groined. It seems to have been of one stage only, the
platform resting on the vault and battlements. In the north-west corner was
a well-stair, opening from the passage, and ascending to the roof. Grose’s
octagonal, well-proportioned, but plain, save the embattled moulding
above. They may be later than the castle.
The three armorial shields over the great gateway represent Bodiham or
Bodeham, Dalingruge, and Wardeux. The central, being that of the founder,
is placed angle-wise beneath his helmet and crest. There were also three
shields above the lesser gateway. One was, no doubt, Dalingruge, as before,
another was Knollys, out of compliment to that commander.
The battlements generally have a plain ∧ coping, with a beaded ridge
towards the field. The merlons are much broader than the embrasures, but
are not pierced. The coping is not repeated in the embrasures. No well has
been discovered, nor any lead piping, as at Ledes, where the castle was
supplied with pure water from a spring at some little distance. On the
whole, the castle, for its period, is unusually severe in its arrangements,
there being scarcely any traces of luxury. It was a castle, not a manor house,
nor palace.
There remains to be described a very singular feature in this castle, the
approach to the great gateway. At present, a causeway of earth, about 6 feet
broad, springs from the north bank of the moat, and proceeds direct, about
62 feet, towards the opposite gateway. It then stops abruptly, and its head is
revetted in masonry, which, however, is modern. Opposite, 11 feet distant,
the water flowing between, is an octagon of 16 feet on each face, or 40 feet
diameter, rising as an island out of the moat, and revetted all round. There
was evidently a shifting bridge of some kind between this octagon and the
causeway. Whether this octagon carried any superstructure is uncertain,
probably it had only the parapet, of which traces remain.
Crossing the octagon in the same straight line, there is reached a second
gap, of 6 feet, and beyond this is a rectangular island about 21 feet north
and south, by 20 feet broad, also revetted all round, and on which revetment
stood the walls of the barbican. This was, therefore, a rectangular building,
traversed by the entrance passage, and having a doorway at either end, the
outer guarded by a portcullis, and the inner by doors. The passage was
vaulted and apparently groined. It seems to have been of one stage only, the
platform resting on the vault and battlements. In the north-west corner was
a well-stair, opening from the passage, and ascending to the roof. Grose’s
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drawing shows this as though it was a side or foot entrance, which does not
appear to have been the case. The work is excellent ashlar, but only the west
side remains.
The barbican is about 54 feet from the great gate, and at present is
connected with it by a causeway. As this causeway is here and there seen to
be revetted, it may be original, in which case it was possibly broken at
either end, and the connection carried on by bridges falling from the
barbican and from the great gate. This, however, is conjecture only.
Some doubt has arisen as to how the octagon was originally approached
from the main land. This doubt is caused by the presence of a demi-pier of
masonry projecting from the west bank a few yards from its north end, and
therefore opposite to the octagon. It is therefore supposed that the causeway
from the north bank is an addition, and that another causeway, or some kind
of communication, was laid from the west bank to the octagon, a much
greater distance, nearly thrice as far. No doubt a similar half-pier on the
south bank indicates a communication thence with the lesser gateway, but
here there seems no reason whatever for the suggested lengthening and
bend in the approach. On the whole, for whatever purpose the western pier
may have been intended, the evidence is in favour of the approach having
always been along the present line. Neither the north nor the west bank is
commanded seriously by higher ground. That to the north rises, no doubt,
but scarcely so as to give any great advantage to archers posted to annoy
those entering the castle, and certainly no greater advantage than could be
gained from the rising ground to the west. Possibly the pier was intended
for the mooring and protection of the boats employed on that side of the
moat. A road, still traceable, led up to this demi-pier.
This double outwork in the moat is peculiar, it is supposed, to Bodiham.
At Ledes, indeed, there are two barbicans, but they are not exactly in the
moat, but upon the bank, and are deeply intrenched, so as to carry the water
round them. At Caerphilly, there is a single large isolated pier in the centre
of the moat, now dry, which pier was connected by drawbridges with the
great gate and the counterscarp, and may be likened to the octagon in the
present instance.
appear to have been the case. The work is excellent ashlar, but only the west
side remains.
The barbican is about 54 feet from the great gate, and at present is
connected with it by a causeway. As this causeway is here and there seen to
be revetted, it may be original, in which case it was possibly broken at
either end, and the connection carried on by bridges falling from the
barbican and from the great gate. This, however, is conjecture only.
Some doubt has arisen as to how the octagon was originally approached
from the main land. This doubt is caused by the presence of a demi-pier of
masonry projecting from the west bank a few yards from its north end, and
therefore opposite to the octagon. It is therefore supposed that the causeway
from the north bank is an addition, and that another causeway, or some kind
of communication, was laid from the west bank to the octagon, a much
greater distance, nearly thrice as far. No doubt a similar half-pier on the
south bank indicates a communication thence with the lesser gateway, but
here there seems no reason whatever for the suggested lengthening and
bend in the approach. On the whole, for whatever purpose the western pier
may have been intended, the evidence is in favour of the approach having
always been along the present line. Neither the north nor the west bank is
commanded seriously by higher ground. That to the north rises, no doubt,
but scarcely so as to give any great advantage to archers posted to annoy
those entering the castle, and certainly no greater advantage than could be
gained from the rising ground to the west. Possibly the pier was intended
for the mooring and protection of the boats employed on that side of the
moat. A road, still traceable, led up to this demi-pier.
This double outwork in the moat is peculiar, it is supposed, to Bodiham.
At Ledes, indeed, there are two barbicans, but they are not exactly in the
moat, but upon the bank, and are deeply intrenched, so as to carry the water
round them. At Caerphilly, there is a single large isolated pier in the centre
of the moat, now dry, which pier was connected by drawbridges with the
great gate and the counterscarp, and may be likened to the octagon in the
present instance.
Page 282
BORTHWICK TOWER, IN MIDLOTHIAN.
BORTHWICK has been selected and is included in these examples as a
noble specimen of military architecture, and the finest extant specimen of
the Peel tower so celebrated upon the Scottish border; meaning by a “Peel”
a stronghold of which the tower is the only considerable work, and which
stands within a walled base-court or barmkin of moderate area. Here,
indeed, the dimensions of the tower are those of a Norman keep, and the
court, though small, is guarded by bastion towers of large diameter, but still
the tower is itself the fortress, and was obviously the residence of the lord
and his family, not only during a siege, but at all times. Such fortresses as
Lochleven and Urquhart on Loch Ness, though far inferior to Borthwick in
strength of masonry and grandeur, are nevertheless castles, whereas
Borthwick is a Peel.
BORTHWICK has been selected and is included in these examples as a
noble specimen of military architecture, and the finest extant specimen of
the Peel tower so celebrated upon the Scottish border; meaning by a “Peel”
a stronghold of which the tower is the only considerable work, and which
stands within a walled base-court or barmkin of moderate area. Here,
indeed, the dimensions of the tower are those of a Norman keep, and the
court, though small, is guarded by bastion towers of large diameter, but still
the tower is itself the fortress, and was obviously the residence of the lord
and his family, not only during a siege, but at all times. Such fortresses as
Lochleven and Urquhart on Loch Ness, though far inferior to Borthwick in
strength of masonry and grandeur, are nevertheless castles, whereas
Borthwick is a Peel.
Page 283
SECTION A B, LOOKING WESTWARD.
Though a ruin, and deserted probably for a couple of centuries,
Borthwick is still in tolerable order, having been preserved by the unusual
thickness of its walls and the excellence of their masonry, and the fact that
both its basement and uppermost story are vaulted, and the upper vaults
protected by stone roofing of a very substantial character. The intermediate
timber floors are all gone, and the vast cavities are inhabited by a numerous
Though a ruin, and deserted probably for a couple of centuries,
Borthwick is still in tolerable order, having been preserved by the unusual
thickness of its walls and the excellence of their masonry, and the fact that
both its basement and uppermost story are vaulted, and the upper vaults
protected by stone roofing of a very substantial character. The intermediate
timber floors are all gone, and the vast cavities are inhabited by a numerous
Page 284
colony of jackdaws, whose heaps of guano might be removed with
advantage. No care has been or is bestowed upon the place, which until
recently needed but little; now, however, the rank vegetation on the roof is
displacing the tile stones, and the water penetrates the vaults. The grand
fireplaces have fallen, and some of the lesser ones are about to fall. At
present a few score pounds judiciously laid out would arrest the decay
which, unchecked, will certainly in a very few years bring down the upper
vaults, and involve the whole structure in irreparable ruin.
advantage. No care has been or is bestowed upon the place, which until
recently needed but little; now, however, the rank vegetation on the roof is
displacing the tile stones, and the water penetrates the vaults. The grand
fireplaces have fallen, and some of the lesser ones are about to fall. At
present a few score pounds judiciously laid out would arrest the decay
which, unchecked, will certainly in a very few years bring down the upper
vaults, and involve the whole structure in irreparable ruin.
Page 285
C. Prison. D. Well-room. E. Kitchen. F. Queen Mary’s
Rooms. G. Hall.
BORTHWICK TOWER.
The tower stands upon a tongue of rocky land, protected by deep, rugged,
and wooded ravines to the south, east, and north. Down two of these flow
the heads of the Middleton burn, and, below the castle, unite, to fall into the
Gore water, which, gathering its springs from the adjacent Lammermuirs,
flows, parallel to the railway, down a pretty pastoral valley by Gore Bridge,
to the South Esk. The tower, placed over the juncture of the three streams, is
a very marked object from the railway, contesting the attention of travellers
Rooms. G. Hall.
BORTHWICK TOWER.
The tower stands upon a tongue of rocky land, protected by deep, rugged,
and wooded ravines to the south, east, and north. Down two of these flow
the heads of the Middleton burn, and, below the castle, unite, to fall into the
Gore water, which, gathering its springs from the adjacent Lammermuirs,
flows, parallel to the railway, down a pretty pastoral valley by Gore Bridge,
to the South Esk. The tower, placed over the juncture of the three streams, is
a very marked object from the railway, contesting the attention of travellers
Page 286
with Crichton Castle, in an opposite direction, but in sight, for a few
seconds, at the same time.
The platform, covered by the base-court, is an irregular figure, governed
by the ground, rounded to the east, and presenting right angles to the north
and south-west. Its dimensions are about 80 yards east and west, by 35
yards north and south. There is a large drum-tower at the south-west angle,
and another, with a square rear, in the centre of the south front, and there are
traces as of a third capping the south-east angle. These towers are 18 feet
diameter, have a basement, a first and second floor, and are about 23 feet
high above the court, and 35 feet to the field. In the west front, close to the
angle-tower, is a gateway; an opening in a very thick low curtain, round-
headed, and probably of the date of the tower. It had a drawbridge and
portcullis, and may have had a low upper story. Above the door, outside, is
a flat entablature, with mouldings in the Renaissance style, and the adjacent
bastion and curtain are pierced with long loops, placed horizontally,
evidently intended for musquetoons, and therefore insertions. They are
similar to those in the north-east bastion of Berwick town wall. The
southern bastion has the original vertical loops for bows and arrows. The
west is the weak side, for which nature has done nothing. The curtain
accordingly is on that side thickened to 12 feet or 15 feet, and there may
have been a ditch, now filled up.
The court was divided by a cross wall, north and south, of no great
strength, and the tower stood in the western half, from six to eight yards
from the three outer walls. The northern curtain is an irregular heap of
ruins; upon it, opposite to the tower door, there seems to have been a mass
of masonry ascended probably by steps, and serving as an abutment to the
stone arch by which the main or first-floor entrance was reached.
The Tower is rectangular, 74 feet north and south by 69 feet east and
west, and from 90 feet to 110 feet high, the latter height being to the ridge
of the gables. In the west front is a recess, also rectangular, 14 feet broad
and 24 feet deep, so that the building in plan resembles the Greek capital Π,
and may conveniently be divided into a body and wings. The recess is not
quite in the centre, the north wing being 31 feet and the south 29 feet broad.
Also, the latter is rather the shorter, so that the north front measures 69 feet,
and the south front 68 feet. The arrangement of the chambers is very
simple, all being rectangular and parallel to the sides, but the mode of
seconds, at the same time.
The platform, covered by the base-court, is an irregular figure, governed
by the ground, rounded to the east, and presenting right angles to the north
and south-west. Its dimensions are about 80 yards east and west, by 35
yards north and south. There is a large drum-tower at the south-west angle,
and another, with a square rear, in the centre of the south front, and there are
traces as of a third capping the south-east angle. These towers are 18 feet
diameter, have a basement, a first and second floor, and are about 23 feet
high above the court, and 35 feet to the field. In the west front, close to the
angle-tower, is a gateway; an opening in a very thick low curtain, round-
headed, and probably of the date of the tower. It had a drawbridge and
portcullis, and may have had a low upper story. Above the door, outside, is
a flat entablature, with mouldings in the Renaissance style, and the adjacent
bastion and curtain are pierced with long loops, placed horizontally,
evidently intended for musquetoons, and therefore insertions. They are
similar to those in the north-east bastion of Berwick town wall. The
southern bastion has the original vertical loops for bows and arrows. The
west is the weak side, for which nature has done nothing. The curtain
accordingly is on that side thickened to 12 feet or 15 feet, and there may
have been a ditch, now filled up.
The court was divided by a cross wall, north and south, of no great
strength, and the tower stood in the western half, from six to eight yards
from the three outer walls. The northern curtain is an irregular heap of
ruins; upon it, opposite to the tower door, there seems to have been a mass
of masonry ascended probably by steps, and serving as an abutment to the
stone arch by which the main or first-floor entrance was reached.
The Tower is rectangular, 74 feet north and south by 69 feet east and
west, and from 90 feet to 110 feet high, the latter height being to the ridge
of the gables. In the west front is a recess, also rectangular, 14 feet broad
and 24 feet deep, so that the building in plan resembles the Greek capital Π,
and may conveniently be divided into a body and wings. The recess is not
quite in the centre, the north wing being 31 feet and the south 29 feet broad.
Also, the latter is rather the shorter, so that the north front measures 69 feet,
and the south front 68 feet. The arrangement of the chambers is very
simple, all being rectangular and parallel to the sides, but the mode of
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reaching them by staircases is very complex. The walls are of immense
thickness, the north or entrance side being 14 feet, and the other from 10
feet to 11 feet. Those of the recess, being protected, are rather less, and in
parts only 6 feet. It is remarkable that these thicknesses are continued with
little or no reduction, to the top. The style is simple and severe, and
although the material is cut stone, of remarkably fine workmanship both
inside and outside the structure, there is scarcely any ornamentation. Over
the outer door, in a shallow ogee niche, is a saint or bishop in low relief,
and within is a handsome canopied niche for a statue and a sort of seat of
state or sedile for the lord. The fireplaces also are good, and the two larger
ones of magnificent character and dimensions. These ornaments belong to
the Decorated style of architecture, and correspond with the known date of
the building, the first half of the fifteenth century. The walls rise from a
plain plinth, and are terminated by strong corbels, 2 feet apart, and about 2
feet deep, between each of which was a “meurtrière,” and outside it a low
parapet, now removed. As usual with Scottish towers, at each angle was a
three-quarter low bartisan resting on the corbels, and probably rising no
higher than the parapet. Also, the three high-pitched roofs of the body and
wings rise above and within the walls, being set back from 6 feet to 8 feet.
The chimneys, where they remain, are tall and handsome, and the three
well-staircases opening on the roof were housed in cylindrical turrets with
conical roofs, of which one remains, wanting only its finial.
The basement is on the ground level, which is about 5 feet below the
exterior ward. Above it is a first floor, which in the body is occupied by the
great hall, above which is a second floor containing the chapel and upper
hall. Above this is a third floor. The divisions of the wings are less lofty.
The north contains six floors, the south five. There are five well-staircases
in different parts of the building. Two ascend from the ground level to the
first floor and there stop. Two others commence at that floor and ascend to
the roof, supplying the intermediate floors, and another commences half-
way up the height of the hall, threads two walls as a gallery, and finally
rises as a well-stair to the roof. There was thus a ready access from the first
and upper floors to the battlements in case of danger.
Basement.—In the body are three chambers placed crossways, east and
west, side by side, all 23 feet long, the central 14 feet wide, the others 15
feet. The vault springs 14 feet from the floor, and in each, at the east end, is
thickness, the north or entrance side being 14 feet, and the other from 10
feet to 11 feet. Those of the recess, being protected, are rather less, and in
parts only 6 feet. It is remarkable that these thicknesses are continued with
little or no reduction, to the top. The style is simple and severe, and
although the material is cut stone, of remarkably fine workmanship both
inside and outside the structure, there is scarcely any ornamentation. Over
the outer door, in a shallow ogee niche, is a saint or bishop in low relief,
and within is a handsome canopied niche for a statue and a sort of seat of
state or sedile for the lord. The fireplaces also are good, and the two larger
ones of magnificent character and dimensions. These ornaments belong to
the Decorated style of architecture, and correspond with the known date of
the building, the first half of the fifteenth century. The walls rise from a
plain plinth, and are terminated by strong corbels, 2 feet apart, and about 2
feet deep, between each of which was a “meurtrière,” and outside it a low
parapet, now removed. As usual with Scottish towers, at each angle was a
three-quarter low bartisan resting on the corbels, and probably rising no
higher than the parapet. Also, the three high-pitched roofs of the body and
wings rise above and within the walls, being set back from 6 feet to 8 feet.
The chimneys, where they remain, are tall and handsome, and the three
well-staircases opening on the roof were housed in cylindrical turrets with
conical roofs, of which one remains, wanting only its finial.
The basement is on the ground level, which is about 5 feet below the
exterior ward. Above it is a first floor, which in the body is occupied by the
great hall, above which is a second floor containing the chapel and upper
hall. Above this is a third floor. The divisions of the wings are less lofty.
The north contains six floors, the south five. There are five well-staircases
in different parts of the building. Two ascend from the ground level to the
first floor and there stop. Two others commence at that floor and ascend to
the roof, supplying the intermediate floors, and another commences half-
way up the height of the hall, threads two walls as a gallery, and finally
rises as a well-stair to the roof. There was thus a ready access from the first
and upper floors to the battlements in case of danger.
Basement.—In the body are three chambers placed crossways, east and
west, side by side, all 23 feet long, the central 14 feet wide, the others 15
feet. The vault springs 14 feet from the floor, and in each, at the east end, is
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a large arched recess, high up, narrowing to a loop. At the springing line of
each vault is a row of strong corbels, evidently to support a floor, a sort of
windowless entresol. These lower chambers communicate by doors, and in
the south wall of the most southern is a recess or cupboard. The outer
doorway, 6 feet wide, at the level of the ground outside, is in the north wall,
and is closed by a stout door, within which the passage descends eight
steps. In the same wall is a well-stair, which ascends from the basement to
the first floor, and there stops. In this, half-way up, is a door into the
entresol over the northern chamber, from which level the stair is continued
to the first floor. The entresols over the other two chambers were reached by
ladders. The whole range clearly was intended for stores, in case of a siege.
From the north and south chambers doors open into the basements of the
two wings, also vaulted. The north, the prison, is 18 feet by 12 feet, with a
high and narrow loop to the west. In its upper part is also a small door, from
the adjacent entresol, which may have opened upon a similar floor above
the prison, or may have been an opening to look down into it.
In the left wing is a vault 20 feet long by 12 feet 6 inches broad, and only
8 feet high. This was reached from the adjacent chamber in the body, and
contained the well. From this chamber, opening in the south wall, is a well-
stair, which rises 10 feet to an entresol, and thence proceeds to the first
floor. This entresol, also vaulted, was 18 feet by 12 feet. There is a fireplace
and cupboard in the north wall, and in the south a small loop, a mural
garderobe, and the door of entrance. From it a rise of 14 feet leads to the
first floor, which is thus 24 feet above the basement.
The first floor contains the great hall,—a noble chamber, 51 feet by 24
feet, with walls from 12 feet to 14 feet thick. It is covered by a pointed
barrel vault, quite plain, but, with the walls, of excellent ashlar. The height
to the crown is about 30 feet. It occupies the whole breadth of the building.
In the north end is a mural chamber, 8 feet 6 inches by 7 feet 10 inches,
which contains the head of the well-stair from below. This has a door into
the hall and another into the entrance passage. This is the passage of the
main entrance, 4 feet 7 inches broad, and 14 feet long, having a door at each
end, but no portcullis. It is the main entrance to the tower. Outside, it seems
to have been approached by a stone arch of about 8 feet span, of which the
springing-course is seen under the door-sill. In the vaulted mural passage
each vault is a row of strong corbels, evidently to support a floor, a sort of
windowless entresol. These lower chambers communicate by doors, and in
the south wall of the most southern is a recess or cupboard. The outer
doorway, 6 feet wide, at the level of the ground outside, is in the north wall,
and is closed by a stout door, within which the passage descends eight
steps. In the same wall is a well-stair, which ascends from the basement to
the first floor, and there stops. In this, half-way up, is a door into the
entresol over the northern chamber, from which level the stair is continued
to the first floor. The entresols over the other two chambers were reached by
ladders. The whole range clearly was intended for stores, in case of a siege.
From the north and south chambers doors open into the basements of the
two wings, also vaulted. The north, the prison, is 18 feet by 12 feet, with a
high and narrow loop to the west. In its upper part is also a small door, from
the adjacent entresol, which may have opened upon a similar floor above
the prison, or may have been an opening to look down into it.
In the left wing is a vault 20 feet long by 12 feet 6 inches broad, and only
8 feet high. This was reached from the adjacent chamber in the body, and
contained the well. From this chamber, opening in the south wall, is a well-
stair, which rises 10 feet to an entresol, and thence proceeds to the first
floor. This entresol, also vaulted, was 18 feet by 12 feet. There is a fireplace
and cupboard in the north wall, and in the south a small loop, a mural
garderobe, and the door of entrance. From it a rise of 14 feet leads to the
first floor, which is thus 24 feet above the basement.
The first floor contains the great hall,—a noble chamber, 51 feet by 24
feet, with walls from 12 feet to 14 feet thick. It is covered by a pointed
barrel vault, quite plain, but, with the walls, of excellent ashlar. The height
to the crown is about 30 feet. It occupies the whole breadth of the building.
In the north end is a mural chamber, 8 feet 6 inches by 7 feet 10 inches,
which contains the head of the well-stair from below. This has a door into
the hall and another into the entrance passage. This is the passage of the
main entrance, 4 feet 7 inches broad, and 14 feet long, having a door at each
end, but no portcullis. It is the main entrance to the tower. Outside, it seems
to have been approached by a stone arch of about 8 feet span, of which the
springing-course is seen under the door-sill. In the vaulted mural passage
Page 289
are the opposite doors, one mentioned already upon the stair-head, the other
leading to the kitchen, which occupies the north wing.
At the other extremity of this northern end of the hall a door opens into a
well-stair, 7 feet 10 inches in diameter, which here commences, and
supplies the upper floor and the roof. The east side of the hall is pierced by
two windows, square headed, in deep-splayed arched recesses of 7 feet
opening, and 22 feet apart. Besides these, towards the north end is a small
light, a mere loop, in a recess of 2 feet 7 inches opening.
The great feature of the hall, after its fine pointed vault, is a grand
fireplace, 9 feet broad and 3 feet deep, with a projecting hood of stone,
which dies into the wall about two-thirds of the way up, and is supported by
two double half-shafts, with bases and carved caps and a flowered band
above, all in the Decorated style. This occupies the centre of the south end,
and on each side of it, high up, are recesses of 5 feet opening ending in
loops of 1 foot. The hood is broken down and the fireplace in decay, but its
remains are very striking. Along the west side of the hall are various
openings. In the centre is a window recess, 5 feet 10 inches broad and 9 feet
deep, from which a side opening leads into a vaulted serving-room, 5 feet
by 11 feet, which again opens into the kitchen. In the south end of this side
a door opens into the withdrawing-room, and another door into a well-stair,
which here commences, and communicates with the upper floors of the
south wing, and the roof. Near the north end of this side a low arch or
buttery-hatch opened direct into the kitchen. Besides these openings, there
are two ornamental recesses. The one a niche in the north wall for a statue,
about 5 feet high, with a handsome groined and floriated canopy and a base
resting upon a half-shaft, probably for a statue of the patron saint of the
family. Also in the west wall, near the fireplace, is a sort of sedile, 4 feet
broad, with an ogee canopy, containing on a shield the three cinquefoils, the
Borthwick arms. The walls of the hall seem to have been either painted or
covered with devices, one of which, “Ye Temple of Honour,” was recently
to be seen. Here and in the staircases are many masons’ marks. Two of the
doors have heads as of three sides of a hexagon, something like the
Berkeley arch.
The Kitchen occupied the first floor of the north wing. It is 16 feet by 22
feet, and is spanned by a large flat arch, throwing the western half into a
stone hood, under which the principal culinary operations were carried on.
leading to the kitchen, which occupies the north wing.
At the other extremity of this northern end of the hall a door opens into a
well-stair, 7 feet 10 inches in diameter, which here commences, and
supplies the upper floor and the roof. The east side of the hall is pierced by
two windows, square headed, in deep-splayed arched recesses of 7 feet
opening, and 22 feet apart. Besides these, towards the north end is a small
light, a mere loop, in a recess of 2 feet 7 inches opening.
The great feature of the hall, after its fine pointed vault, is a grand
fireplace, 9 feet broad and 3 feet deep, with a projecting hood of stone,
which dies into the wall about two-thirds of the way up, and is supported by
two double half-shafts, with bases and carved caps and a flowered band
above, all in the Decorated style. This occupies the centre of the south end,
and on each side of it, high up, are recesses of 5 feet opening ending in
loops of 1 foot. The hood is broken down and the fireplace in decay, but its
remains are very striking. Along the west side of the hall are various
openings. In the centre is a window recess, 5 feet 10 inches broad and 9 feet
deep, from which a side opening leads into a vaulted serving-room, 5 feet
by 11 feet, which again opens into the kitchen. In the south end of this side
a door opens into the withdrawing-room, and another door into a well-stair,
which here commences, and communicates with the upper floors of the
south wing, and the roof. Near the north end of this side a low arch or
buttery-hatch opened direct into the kitchen. Besides these openings, there
are two ornamental recesses. The one a niche in the north wall for a statue,
about 5 feet high, with a handsome groined and floriated canopy and a base
resting upon a half-shaft, probably for a statue of the patron saint of the
family. Also in the west wall, near the fireplace, is a sort of sedile, 4 feet
broad, with an ogee canopy, containing on a shield the three cinquefoils, the
Borthwick arms. The walls of the hall seem to have been either painted or
covered with devices, one of which, “Ye Temple of Honour,” was recently
to be seen. Here and in the staircases are many masons’ marks. Two of the
doors have heads as of three sides of a hexagon, something like the
Berkeley arch.
The Kitchen occupied the first floor of the north wing. It is 16 feet by 22
feet, and is spanned by a large flat arch, throwing the western half into a
stone hood, under which the principal culinary operations were carried on.
Page 290
There are three recesses with loops in the north and west sides, one of
which is blocked by a later oven. There is also a small fireplace. The
entrances are from the main door of the hall and from the serving-room, and
between is the buttery-hatch.
The Withdrawing-room occupies the south wing, and is 19 feet by 14
feet. It was entered from the hall and from the well-stair, and has recesses
and small windows towards the south and west, besides wall cupboards.
The south wall contains, in a vaulted chamber, the head of the staircase
from the well-room and its entresol; and in this wall also is a mural
chamber, 8 feet by 7 feet, with two doors, a window, and, in its flat slab-
covered roof, a shaft, probably for a stove chimney. This is called Queen
Mary’s room, and was probably her bed-chamber when she visited
Borthwick. This and the larger room are plugged for panelling, and the
contiguous doorways from the stairs and the hall had a wooden porch
shutting them off in the corner of the room, so that there was a passage
either from the Queen’s room or the staircase into the hall without entering
the withdrawing-room.
Above the hall, a corresponding space, 51 feet by 24 feet, is divided by a
cross-wall into an upper hall and a chapel. The upper hall, 27 feet by 24
feet, has a large fireplace, with a stone hood and flanking shafts, and near it
a window, both in the east wall. In the north wall is a large recess and
window and a door into the north-eastern staircase. In the west wall is a
window in a recess, and a door which leads by a mural passage into the
north wing, and into a garderobe in the north wall.
The Chapel, 24 feet by 21 feet, has a recess of 9 feet wide, in which is
the east window, a piscina, and an almbry. It had also two south windows,
and between them a small fireplace. In its west wall is the entrance-door
from the well-stair, and a door, 2 feet above the floor, from the south wing,
which probably opened into a raised seat for the lord. Both chapel and
upper hall had a flat timber roof, and were 14 feet high.
The room next above these, the third floor of the body, was of the
dimensions of the great hall. It had three windows to the east and one to the
north, south, and west. It was entered from the well-staircase in the north-
east corner, and that of the south wing, and it had a door direct into the
north wing. This room has a long, full-centred barrel vault, which rises
which is blocked by a later oven. There is also a small fireplace. The
entrances are from the main door of the hall and from the serving-room, and
between is the buttery-hatch.
The Withdrawing-room occupies the south wing, and is 19 feet by 14
feet. It was entered from the hall and from the well-stair, and has recesses
and small windows towards the south and west, besides wall cupboards.
The south wall contains, in a vaulted chamber, the head of the staircase
from the well-room and its entresol; and in this wall also is a mural
chamber, 8 feet by 7 feet, with two doors, a window, and, in its flat slab-
covered roof, a shaft, probably for a stove chimney. This is called Queen
Mary’s room, and was probably her bed-chamber when she visited
Borthwick. This and the larger room are plugged for panelling, and the
contiguous doorways from the stairs and the hall had a wooden porch
shutting them off in the corner of the room, so that there was a passage
either from the Queen’s room or the staircase into the hall without entering
the withdrawing-room.
Above the hall, a corresponding space, 51 feet by 24 feet, is divided by a
cross-wall into an upper hall and a chapel. The upper hall, 27 feet by 24
feet, has a large fireplace, with a stone hood and flanking shafts, and near it
a window, both in the east wall. In the north wall is a large recess and
window and a door into the north-eastern staircase. In the west wall is a
window in a recess, and a door which leads by a mural passage into the
north wing, and into a garderobe in the north wall.
The Chapel, 24 feet by 21 feet, has a recess of 9 feet wide, in which is
the east window, a piscina, and an almbry. It had also two south windows,
and between them a small fireplace. In its west wall is the entrance-door
from the well-stair, and a door, 2 feet above the floor, from the south wing,
which probably opened into a raised seat for the lord. Both chapel and
upper hall had a flat timber roof, and were 14 feet high.
The room next above these, the third floor of the body, was of the
dimensions of the great hall. It had three windows to the east and one to the
north, south, and west. It was entered from the well-staircase in the north-
east corner, and that of the south wing, and it had a door direct into the
north wing. This room has a long, full-centred barrel vault, which rises
Page 291
about 6 feet above the walls, and is, therefore, to the crown, about 15 feet
high. It is probable that this great chamber was broken up by partitions, but
it contains no fireplace.
Corresponding to these floors in the body are, in the south wing, five,—
the first being the withdrawing-room already described, and 13 feet high.
The second has two windows, a fireplace, and a mural garderobe, and is
about 11 feet high. The third, the same, and is 8 feet high; the fourth has the
same arrangements, and, in addition, a door into the private seat of the
chapel. It is 17 feet high. The fifth floor has two windows only, and is about
15 feet high to the crown of its vaulted roof. All the chambers in this wing
are of the same size, and one over another.
The chambers in the north wing are over, and of the same size with, the
first floor or kitchen, the hood and chimney-shaft of which, built against the
west wall, passes up through each floor, tapering as it rises. In this wing
there are six floors, most having two windows and some a fireplace. The
second floor—that over the kitchen—is entered from the eastern well-stair,
whence, at 12 feet above the floor of the hall, a mural passage threads the
north wall and its window recess, and leads into the chamber. Hence,
ascending in the west wall of the hall 10 feet, it reaches the commencement
of a well-stair, which leads to the upper floors and the roof. The uppermost
and sixth floor is in the vault of the roof, and is lighted by orifices in its
gables.
Besides these chambers in the two wings there are small mural chambers
at two levels in the west wall, which are reached from the south stair, and
look into the recess on the west front of the tower.
The battlements are still accessible by two staircases, and the three roofs
are seen to rise independently from the rampart-walk level. They are high-
pitched, and their vaults are covered with cut stone tiles, fitted so as to form
ridges and hollows, and so jointed as completely, while perfect, to exclude
the rain. This roofing has lasted well, and even now only needs relaying and
the replacing of a few broken stones. The gables are of cut stone. The stair-
heads are about 8 feet high, circular, with conical roofs of ashlar. There
seems to have been a low parapet all round, set out upon corbels, and
between each pair a square machicolation. There is a clear walk all round,
only broken by the chimney-shafts. The parapet has been removed,
high. It is probable that this great chamber was broken up by partitions, but
it contains no fireplace.
Corresponding to these floors in the body are, in the south wing, five,—
the first being the withdrawing-room already described, and 13 feet high.
The second has two windows, a fireplace, and a mural garderobe, and is
about 11 feet high. The third, the same, and is 8 feet high; the fourth has the
same arrangements, and, in addition, a door into the private seat of the
chapel. It is 17 feet high. The fifth floor has two windows only, and is about
15 feet high to the crown of its vaulted roof. All the chambers in this wing
are of the same size, and one over another.
The chambers in the north wing are over, and of the same size with, the
first floor or kitchen, the hood and chimney-shaft of which, built against the
west wall, passes up through each floor, tapering as it rises. In this wing
there are six floors, most having two windows and some a fireplace. The
second floor—that over the kitchen—is entered from the eastern well-stair,
whence, at 12 feet above the floor of the hall, a mural passage threads the
north wall and its window recess, and leads into the chamber. Hence,
ascending in the west wall of the hall 10 feet, it reaches the commencement
of a well-stair, which leads to the upper floors and the roof. The uppermost
and sixth floor is in the vault of the roof, and is lighted by orifices in its
gables.
Besides these chambers in the two wings there are small mural chambers
at two levels in the west wall, which are reached from the south stair, and
look into the recess on the west front of the tower.
The battlements are still accessible by two staircases, and the three roofs
are seen to rise independently from the rampart-walk level. They are high-
pitched, and their vaults are covered with cut stone tiles, fitted so as to form
ridges and hollows, and so jointed as completely, while perfect, to exclude
the rain. This roofing has lasted well, and even now only needs relaying and
the replacing of a few broken stones. The gables are of cut stone. The stair-
heads are about 8 feet high, circular, with conical roofs of ashlar. There
seems to have been a low parapet all round, set out upon corbels, and
between each pair a square machicolation. There is a clear walk all round,
only broken by the chimney-shafts. The parapet has been removed,
Page 292
probably to prevent the tower being held as a military post. The east wall
near the top is much injured, it is said, by Cromwell’s shot, when he
battered the castle from this side, beyond the ravine.
Borthwick Tower was built under a licence from James II. to Sir William
Borthwick of that ilk, dated the 2nd of June, 1430.
Billing gives an excellent view of this tower from the south-west, and a
good drawing of the interior of the hall, showing the great fireplace before
its fall, and the lord’s seat.
HISTORY.
The family of Borthwick, though for centuries the owners of this estate,
derive their name from a place on the shore of Borthwickwater, in the shire
of Selkirk, whence, at a remote period, they migrated to the lands and castle
of Catcune, holding it with Legertwood and Herriot Muir, whence they
again removed to Locherwart, to which they gave the name of Borthwick,
an inversion common in Ireland, but rare in England and Scotland. Their
predecessors at Locherwart were the Hays of Yester.
The first of the name on record was, I., Thomas de Borthwick, temp.
David II., and who held lands in Berwickshire. His son, II., Sir William
Borthwick, of Catcune, was living 1378, and his son, III., Sir William
Borthwick, in 1387–1401, and who was father of, IV., Sir William, of
Legertwood, who, in 1410, had a grant from Robert Duke of Albany of the
lands of Borthwick and Thoftcotys, in Selkirk; V., another William, son of
the last, was one of the hostages sent to England for the ransom of James I.
To him, as Willelmus de Borthwic, miles, the king granted, 2nd June, 1430,
a letter of licence, “construendi castrum in illo loco qui vulgariter dicitur le
Mot de Lochorwort ... ac in eodem castro et fortalicio Constabularium,
Janitorem, custodesque necessarios et optimos pro sua voluntate
providendi, removendi, et omnia alia quæ ad securitatem et fortificationem
dicti castri necessaria fuerint faciendi.”
Such a licence is rare in Scotland, where the nobles were very
independent of the Crown, and the country commonly so disturbed that a
castle was almost a necessary of life. To the castle so licensed to be built
was given the name of Borthwick. It is probable from the term “Le Mot”
near the top is much injured, it is said, by Cromwell’s shot, when he
battered the castle from this side, beyond the ravine.
Borthwick Tower was built under a licence from James II. to Sir William
Borthwick of that ilk, dated the 2nd of June, 1430.
Billing gives an excellent view of this tower from the south-west, and a
good drawing of the interior of the hall, showing the great fireplace before
its fall, and the lord’s seat.
HISTORY.
The family of Borthwick, though for centuries the owners of this estate,
derive their name from a place on the shore of Borthwickwater, in the shire
of Selkirk, whence, at a remote period, they migrated to the lands and castle
of Catcune, holding it with Legertwood and Herriot Muir, whence they
again removed to Locherwart, to which they gave the name of Borthwick,
an inversion common in Ireland, but rare in England and Scotland. Their
predecessors at Locherwart were the Hays of Yester.
The first of the name on record was, I., Thomas de Borthwick, temp.
David II., and who held lands in Berwickshire. His son, II., Sir William
Borthwick, of Catcune, was living 1378, and his son, III., Sir William
Borthwick, in 1387–1401, and who was father of, IV., Sir William, of
Legertwood, who, in 1410, had a grant from Robert Duke of Albany of the
lands of Borthwick and Thoftcotys, in Selkirk; V., another William, son of
the last, was one of the hostages sent to England for the ransom of James I.
To him, as Willelmus de Borthwic, miles, the king granted, 2nd June, 1430,
a letter of licence, “construendi castrum in illo loco qui vulgariter dicitur le
Mot de Lochorwort ... ac in eodem castro et fortalicio Constabularium,
Janitorem, custodesque necessarios et optimos pro sua voluntate
providendi, removendi, et omnia alia quæ ad securitatem et fortificationem
dicti castri necessaria fuerint faciendi.”
Such a licence is rare in Scotland, where the nobles were very
independent of the Crown, and the country commonly so disturbed that a
castle was almost a necessary of life. To the castle so licensed to be built
was given the name of Borthwick. It is probable from the term “Le Mot”
Page 293
that there was already a strong place there, for which indeed the position
was very suitable. This Sir William seems to have been the first Lord
Borthwick. His lineal male descendant, John, the eighth lord, held out his
castle for a time against Cromwell’s artillery. His son, John, the ninth lord,
died childless in 1681, and on his death the castle passed to his sister’s son,
Dundas of Harrington, from which family, after two descents, the castle was
purchased by Borthwick of Croston, descended from a younger son of the
first lord, and his male descendant in the tenth generation claimed, in 1774,
the barony, which, however, was ultimately granted to a still nearer male
heir.
John, the fifth lord, was a strong partisan of Queen Mary. He it was who
ducked the apparitor in the burn, and made him eat his letter of
excommunication, steeped in wine. Mary fled to Borthwick Castle, about
three weeks after her marriage with Bothwell, 7th June, 1577, and, being
followed by the opposing lords, fled thence, on the 11th, to Dunbar,
disguised as a page. No doubt she slept in the chamber called by her name.
Bothwell, at that time, possessed the adjacent castle of Crichton.
The Borthwick arms carved in the hall of the castle are,—(A) three
cinquefoils (sable).
The adjacent church was rebuilt, or nearly so, in excellent taste, in 1850.
It has a western tower with a broach spire, a nave, chancel, and round apse,
and two transepts, of which that to the south is old, and mainly in the
Decorated style, though with some traces of Norman work.
Dr. Robertson, the historian, was born in the manse, which, however, has
been rebuilt.
was very suitable. This Sir William seems to have been the first Lord
Borthwick. His lineal male descendant, John, the eighth lord, held out his
castle for a time against Cromwell’s artillery. His son, John, the ninth lord,
died childless in 1681, and on his death the castle passed to his sister’s son,
Dundas of Harrington, from which family, after two descents, the castle was
purchased by Borthwick of Croston, descended from a younger son of the
first lord, and his male descendant in the tenth generation claimed, in 1774,
the barony, which, however, was ultimately granted to a still nearer male
heir.
John, the fifth lord, was a strong partisan of Queen Mary. He it was who
ducked the apparitor in the burn, and made him eat his letter of
excommunication, steeped in wine. Mary fled to Borthwick Castle, about
three weeks after her marriage with Bothwell, 7th June, 1577, and, being
followed by the opposing lords, fled thence, on the 11th, to Dunbar,
disguised as a page. No doubt she slept in the chamber called by her name.
Bothwell, at that time, possessed the adjacent castle of Crichton.
The Borthwick arms carved in the hall of the castle are,—(A) three
cinquefoils (sable).
The adjacent church was rebuilt, or nearly so, in excellent taste, in 1850.
It has a western tower with a broach spire, a nave, chancel, and round apse,
and two transepts, of which that to the south is old, and mainly in the
Decorated style, though with some traces of Norman work.
Dr. Robertson, the historian, was born in the manse, which, however, has
been rebuilt.
Page 294
THE CASTLE OF BÔVES.
THE Castle of Bôves is here introduced as a good example of a moated
mound on the other side of the Channel. The castle and village stand upon
the left bank of the valley of the Noye, in the old province of Picardy, above
and about a quarter of a mile distant from the stream. The Noye rises near to
Crêvecœur-le-Grand, beyond Bretuil, and flows across a district of chalk.
Both a little above and immediately below Bôves, it inosculates with the
Avre, which rises near to Crêvecœur-le-Petit, and the combined stream,
flowing past Longeau, joins the Somme immediately above Amiens, which
city is about five miles distant from Bôves. Both the Noye and the Avre
exhibit the features which are still more strongly marked in the Somme.
They flow sluggishly across broad, flat tracts of peat and gravel, contained
within steep and high banks of chalk. The peat has been extensively
excavated for fuel, and the cavities are filled with dark peaty water. The
supply of coal by railway and canal seems somewhat to have checked the
demand upon these turbaries, and the uncut surfaces are highly cultivated as
nursery gardens, which appear in patches amidst the pools, and are chiefly
reached by boats. The poplar is the prevailing tree of these damp, gloomy
districts, and it there attains a very considerable size. Below the peat, and at
the base and up the sides of the chalk hills, the rock is more or less thickly
covered up with beds of gravel and light loam, in which are found the flint
implements which have been the subject of so much speculation.
The village of Bôves contains under 2,000 persons, whose chief
employment is bleaching in the open fields the cotton cloths manufactured
in the neighbourhood. The church, the only public building, is a heavy
Doric temple, of modern date. The village is built at the foot of the chalk
hill upon which stands the castle, and which has been quarried for building
purposes into a cliff of 50 feet to 80 feet high.
The castle, now a mere ruin of no great extent, is chiefly remarkable for
its earthworks. It stands upon a chalk ridge, perhaps 150 feet above the
valley, and has been isolated towards the south by a curved ditch, about 50
feet deep by 60 feet or 70 feet broad, and about a furlong in length. This
THE Castle of Bôves is here introduced as a good example of a moated
mound on the other side of the Channel. The castle and village stand upon
the left bank of the valley of the Noye, in the old province of Picardy, above
and about a quarter of a mile distant from the stream. The Noye rises near to
Crêvecœur-le-Grand, beyond Bretuil, and flows across a district of chalk.
Both a little above and immediately below Bôves, it inosculates with the
Avre, which rises near to Crêvecœur-le-Petit, and the combined stream,
flowing past Longeau, joins the Somme immediately above Amiens, which
city is about five miles distant from Bôves. Both the Noye and the Avre
exhibit the features which are still more strongly marked in the Somme.
They flow sluggishly across broad, flat tracts of peat and gravel, contained
within steep and high banks of chalk. The peat has been extensively
excavated for fuel, and the cavities are filled with dark peaty water. The
supply of coal by railway and canal seems somewhat to have checked the
demand upon these turbaries, and the uncut surfaces are highly cultivated as
nursery gardens, which appear in patches amidst the pools, and are chiefly
reached by boats. The poplar is the prevailing tree of these damp, gloomy
districts, and it there attains a very considerable size. Below the peat, and at
the base and up the sides of the chalk hills, the rock is more or less thickly
covered up with beds of gravel and light loam, in which are found the flint
implements which have been the subject of so much speculation.
The village of Bôves contains under 2,000 persons, whose chief
employment is bleaching in the open fields the cotton cloths manufactured
in the neighbourhood. The church, the only public building, is a heavy
Doric temple, of modern date. The village is built at the foot of the chalk
hill upon which stands the castle, and which has been quarried for building
purposes into a cliff of 50 feet to 80 feet high.
The castle, now a mere ruin of no great extent, is chiefly remarkable for
its earthworks. It stands upon a chalk ridge, perhaps 150 feet above the
valley, and has been isolated towards the south by a curved ditch, about 50
feet deep by 60 feet or 70 feet broad, and about a furlong in length. This
Page 295
ditch works out upon the face of the cliff towards the village, and upon the
natural slope in the opposite direction. The ground without, or upon its
counterscarp, has not been disturbed. The contents have been thrown
inward, and cause the scarp to be crowned by an elevated bank.
On the highest part of the ground, just within the ditch and near its
centre, is a mound or motte, with very steep sides, about 50 feet high, and a
circular flat top about 100 feet in diameter. This motte has a basis of chalk
rock, which has been scarped, and the material added to the summit. The
bank proceeds from the mound along the edge of the ditch, and probably
was connected with or covered the entrance into the work upon the motte.
To the east and north of the motte the ground is tolerably level as far as the
edge of the cliff, and of a deep hollow way ascending from the village. This
space is now partially occupied by a public cemetery and some farm
buildings. West of the motte is a sort of lunated platform, beyond which the
slope is again scarped by art. Probably the principal buildings of the castle
and its offices occupied these platforms under the motte.
The only masonry remaining stands upon the motte, and consists of the
ruins of a tower and a fragment of wall. The tower stands at the junction of
the scarped bank with the motte, upon the edge of the ditch. Its remains are
quadrangular, with thick walls, of which only the north and south remain. It
was of three floors, a basement vaulted in round-headed barrel; a first floor,
with timber ceiling; and a second floor, higher, and evidently a room of
state. In the basement walls remain three rectangular loopholes, or small
window-openings, high up. The upper room may have been vaulted. Its
walls show a round-headed gable, but this may have belonged to a coved
plaster ceiling. Outside, against one wall, is a plain buttress, 3 feet by 3 feet.
The material is chalk rubble, without flints, and faced, within and without,
with chalk ashlar, the stones being coursed, and about 9 inches long by 6
inches high, with rather open joints. This tower may have contained a small
portal. From it extends a fragment of curtain, along the edge of the motte.
This has one broken opening, perhaps a window, with a round head. It is
difficult to form an opinion upon the age of this masonry. It is possibly late
Norman.
There are marks of the foundations of a shell of wall all round the edge of
the motte, and of a central rectangular court. At present the summit is
planted with trees, and the slopes covered with brushwood.
natural slope in the opposite direction. The ground without, or upon its
counterscarp, has not been disturbed. The contents have been thrown
inward, and cause the scarp to be crowned by an elevated bank.
On the highest part of the ground, just within the ditch and near its
centre, is a mound or motte, with very steep sides, about 50 feet high, and a
circular flat top about 100 feet in diameter. This motte has a basis of chalk
rock, which has been scarped, and the material added to the summit. The
bank proceeds from the mound along the edge of the ditch, and probably
was connected with or covered the entrance into the work upon the motte.
To the east and north of the motte the ground is tolerably level as far as the
edge of the cliff, and of a deep hollow way ascending from the village. This
space is now partially occupied by a public cemetery and some farm
buildings. West of the motte is a sort of lunated platform, beyond which the
slope is again scarped by art. Probably the principal buildings of the castle
and its offices occupied these platforms under the motte.
The only masonry remaining stands upon the motte, and consists of the
ruins of a tower and a fragment of wall. The tower stands at the junction of
the scarped bank with the motte, upon the edge of the ditch. Its remains are
quadrangular, with thick walls, of which only the north and south remain. It
was of three floors, a basement vaulted in round-headed barrel; a first floor,
with timber ceiling; and a second floor, higher, and evidently a room of
state. In the basement walls remain three rectangular loopholes, or small
window-openings, high up. The upper room may have been vaulted. Its
walls show a round-headed gable, but this may have belonged to a coved
plaster ceiling. Outside, against one wall, is a plain buttress, 3 feet by 3 feet.
The material is chalk rubble, without flints, and faced, within and without,
with chalk ashlar, the stones being coursed, and about 9 inches long by 6
inches high, with rather open joints. This tower may have contained a small
portal. From it extends a fragment of curtain, along the edge of the motte.
This has one broken opening, perhaps a window, with a round head. It is
difficult to form an opinion upon the age of this masonry. It is possibly late
Norman.
There are marks of the foundations of a shell of wall all round the edge of
the motte, and of a central rectangular court. At present the summit is
planted with trees, and the slopes covered with brushwood.
Page 296
Bôves underwent a siege from Philip Augustus of which an interesting
account was drawn up by Guillaume le Breton. The following is extracted
from it:—
“The first barriers being won, the besiegers constructed with osiers, hides
and stout planks, a cat, under cover of which picked men filled in the ditch.
This done, the knights, under cover of their large shields held against the
wall, covered the miners, who, with bars and picks, broke into the wall,
propping it up with rough trunks of trees, and then removing the masonry
above the level of the foundations. When enough was thus undermined,
they set the props on fire and retired. When the props were burnt the wall
fell in the midst of a dense cloud of dust and smoke. The besieged then gave
way, a body of youth, sheathed in armour, ascended amidst the dust and
ruin, massacred some and captured others, while the remainder, retreating,
fled into the keep, which, built upon a scarped rock and protected by a
double wall, offered a sure asylum.
“Then a machine, contrived for various purposes, was brought to bear
upon the keep; sometimes as a mangonel, such as are used by the Turks, it
sent a shower of small stones into the air, sometimes a single stone of vast
weight was projected with a velocity exceeding that from a sling. Fissures
began to appear in the walls, shaken by the repeated blows,” &c.
The history of Bôves is probably that of Amiens. It is supposed to have
been thrown up in the ninth century, for defence against the aggressive
Northmen, and the character of the earthwork favours this view. Some of
the Sieurs de Coucy were lords also of Bôves; and Henry IV., whose wars
brought him to Amiens, is said to have occasionally visited Bôves with
Gabrielle d’Estrées. The lordship was, during that reign, the property of
Philippe de Mornay, son of that Du Plessis Mornay whose name is so
intimately associated with the career of Henry. The earthworks are seen to
great advantage from the Bôves Station of the Amiens Railway.
account was drawn up by Guillaume le Breton. The following is extracted
from it:—
“The first barriers being won, the besiegers constructed with osiers, hides
and stout planks, a cat, under cover of which picked men filled in the ditch.
This done, the knights, under cover of their large shields held against the
wall, covered the miners, who, with bars and picks, broke into the wall,
propping it up with rough trunks of trees, and then removing the masonry
above the level of the foundations. When enough was thus undermined,
they set the props on fire and retired. When the props were burnt the wall
fell in the midst of a dense cloud of dust and smoke. The besieged then gave
way, a body of youth, sheathed in armour, ascended amidst the dust and
ruin, massacred some and captured others, while the remainder, retreating,
fled into the keep, which, built upon a scarped rock and protected by a
double wall, offered a sure asylum.
“Then a machine, contrived for various purposes, was brought to bear
upon the keep; sometimes as a mangonel, such as are used by the Turks, it
sent a shower of small stones into the air, sometimes a single stone of vast
weight was projected with a velocity exceeding that from a sling. Fissures
began to appear in the walls, shaken by the repeated blows,” &c.
The history of Bôves is probably that of Amiens. It is supposed to have
been thrown up in the ninth century, for defence against the aggressive
Northmen, and the character of the earthwork favours this view. Some of
the Sieurs de Coucy were lords also of Bôves; and Henry IV., whose wars
brought him to Amiens, is said to have occasionally visited Bôves with
Gabrielle d’Estrées. The lordship was, during that reign, the property of
Philippe de Mornay, son of that Du Plessis Mornay whose name is so
intimately associated with the career of Henry. The earthworks are seen to
great advantage from the Bôves Station of the Amiens Railway.
Page 297
BOWES CASTLE, YORKSHIRE.
THE stronghold known as Bowes Castle consists at this time of a single
rectangular tower, unconnected with any other buildings, and bearing no
trace whatever of ever having been so connected. This is very remarkable,
inasmuch as the tower is in every respect both of plan and detail, a Norman
keep, and Norman keeps usually, it may be said invariably, are, as the name
imports, connected with or surrounded by other buildings, of which the
tower is the strength or citadel.
Brough, Brougham and Appleby, Carlisle and Newcastle, Helmsley,
Scarborough, and Richmond, all Norman rectangular keeps of the Northern
Counties, are parts only, though the chief part, each of its castle, and it is
only to fortresses so composed of parts that it is usual to apply the name of
castle, a single structure being usually termed a tower or peel. Bowes,
however, is always styled a castle in the records, and it is, of course,
possible that it may, in respect of composition, have resembled other
castles, and that the stronger and better-built part of the work may have
proved most durable. It is, however, clear that no other work in masonry
abutted upon, or, at least, was bonded into this tower, nor is there any
indication of building or of foundations in the greensward, to which the
tower on two of its sides lies open. On another side the churchyard runs up
to within but a few feet of the tower, and on the remaining side the cottages
show nothing of either old walls, or of the material of which such were
likely to have been constructed.
Bowes Keep, if then Keep it may be called, is a rectangular tower rather
above 82 feet east and west by 60 feet north and south. It does not,
however, stand with the main points of the compass, the actual north being
the north-west angle of the description. It is about 50 feet high. Each angle
is capped by a broad flat pilaster, 14 feet broad and projecting a foot, and
the angle of meeting of each pair is solid. Midway, in the centre of each
face, is also a pilaster 8 feet 10 inches broad, and of the same projection
with those flanking it. There is no base or plinth or set-off, save where a
plain string-course marks the level of the upper floor, and is continued
THE stronghold known as Bowes Castle consists at this time of a single
rectangular tower, unconnected with any other buildings, and bearing no
trace whatever of ever having been so connected. This is very remarkable,
inasmuch as the tower is in every respect both of plan and detail, a Norman
keep, and Norman keeps usually, it may be said invariably, are, as the name
imports, connected with or surrounded by other buildings, of which the
tower is the strength or citadel.
Brough, Brougham and Appleby, Carlisle and Newcastle, Helmsley,
Scarborough, and Richmond, all Norman rectangular keeps of the Northern
Counties, are parts only, though the chief part, each of its castle, and it is
only to fortresses so composed of parts that it is usual to apply the name of
castle, a single structure being usually termed a tower or peel. Bowes,
however, is always styled a castle in the records, and it is, of course,
possible that it may, in respect of composition, have resembled other
castles, and that the stronger and better-built part of the work may have
proved most durable. It is, however, clear that no other work in masonry
abutted upon, or, at least, was bonded into this tower, nor is there any
indication of building or of foundations in the greensward, to which the
tower on two of its sides lies open. On another side the churchyard runs up
to within but a few feet of the tower, and on the remaining side the cottages
show nothing of either old walls, or of the material of which such were
likely to have been constructed.
Bowes Keep, if then Keep it may be called, is a rectangular tower rather
above 82 feet east and west by 60 feet north and south. It does not,
however, stand with the main points of the compass, the actual north being
the north-west angle of the description. It is about 50 feet high. Each angle
is capped by a broad flat pilaster, 14 feet broad and projecting a foot, and
the angle of meeting of each pair is solid. Midway, in the centre of each
face, is also a pilaster 8 feet 10 inches broad, and of the same projection
with those flanking it. There is no base or plinth or set-off, save where a
plain string-course marks the level of the upper floor, and is continued
Page 298
along the whole building, walls and pilasters. The top of the wall is much
broken down, no battlement remaining. There do not appear to have been
turrets at the angles, save perhaps one at the south-east, containing the stair
head.
There is a basement, a main, and an upper floor. The basement, as usual,
is at the ground-level. Its walls are 11 feet to 12 feet thick and solid,
enclosing an area 36 feet by 58 feet. This again is subdivided by two cross-
walls, 4 feet 4 inches thick. One of these, lying north and south, seems to
have ascended through each floor, the other at right angles to it was
probably confined to the basement. Both walls are broken away, only
enough being left to show that such there were. Of the three chambers thus
formed, that occupying the west end of the floor was 37 feet long by 16 feet
broad (a). Of the two others the southern was 37 feet 10 inches long by 17
feet broad (c), and the northern the same length by 15 feet broad (b).
broken down, no battlement remaining. There do not appear to have been
turrets at the angles, save perhaps one at the south-east, containing the stair
head.
There is a basement, a main, and an upper floor. The basement, as usual,
is at the ground-level. Its walls are 11 feet to 12 feet thick and solid,
enclosing an area 36 feet by 58 feet. This again is subdivided by two cross-
walls, 4 feet 4 inches thick. One of these, lying north and south, seems to
have ascended through each floor, the other at right angles to it was
probably confined to the basement. Both walls are broken away, only
enough being left to show that such there were. Of the three chambers thus
formed, that occupying the west end of the floor was 37 feet long by 16 feet
broad (a). Of the two others the southern was 37 feet 10 inches long by 17
feet broad (c), and the northern the same length by 15 feet broad (b).
Page 299
BOWES CASTLE.
The western chamber was certainly vaulted, the corbels whence sprung
the ribs or vaults remaining at the four angles. The other two chambers were
probably also vaulted, some trace of the angle corbels remaining. A special
rib seems to have shut off the south-east angle, probably to give head-room
for the staircase doorway. A doorway led from the south to the western
chamber, of which the south jamb remains. Probably these chambers were
vaulted in two bays, but of this no indication is left. All are lighted by loops,
each loop is about 2 inches broad, and 6 feet above the ground, and is
placed in a round-headed stepped recess, splayed from an internal breadth
The western chamber was certainly vaulted, the corbels whence sprung
the ribs or vaults remaining at the four angles. The other two chambers were
probably also vaulted, some trace of the angle corbels remaining. A special
rib seems to have shut off the south-east angle, probably to give head-room
for the staircase doorway. A doorway led from the south to the western
chamber, of which the south jamb remains. Probably these chambers were
vaulted in two bays, but of this no indication is left. All are lighted by loops,
each loop is about 2 inches broad, and 6 feet above the ground, and is
placed in a round-headed stepped recess, splayed from an internal breadth
Page 300
of about 4 feet 6 inches. Of these loops there are six. One in the north wall,
opening from the north chamber; three in the south wall, of which two open
from the south chamber, and the third from the west chamber, which has
also two others in the west wall.
The south-east angle is occupied by a well-staircase 11 feet 8 inches
diameter, which rises to the roof, communicating by a short lobby with each
floor. The only access to the basement was by this staircase from the first
floor.
The first or main floor was divided by the cross-wall into a larger east (e)
and a smaller west chamber (d), and a shelf or set-off reduces some of the
walls by a foot, and enlarges the inner area accordingly. At this level also
the walls contained several mural chambers. The main, and indeed the only
entrance to the tower was on this floor in the east wall, about 10 feet from
the ground. The doorway, a plain rounded arch of 5 feet 4 inches opening
(f), led into a passage of 6 feet breadth, opening direct into the eastern
chamber. There was no portcullis, and the only defence was a stout door,
barred. In the south wall of the passage a small doorway led into a chamber
in the east wall, 6 feet wide by 14 feet long, and which has a loop in its
outer wall, and no doubt opened by a doorway, now broken down, into the
east chamber. On the north side of the doorway, but not communicating
with the passage, the north-east angle of the building is occupied by a
second mural chamber 14 feet long by 9 feet broad, also vaulted (g). In the
north wall of this chamber is a fire-place with a concave back, and at the
east end is a loop. It was entered from the east chamber by a doorway, now
broken down, in its south wall, and this door led into a small lobby, cut off
by a cross-wall from the chamber with the fire-place.
A third mural chamber is entered from the larger room by a small door in
the south wall. This opens into a passage 2 feet 6 inches broad, and 33 feet
long, lighted by a couple of loops in its south wall, and terminating in a
small chamber about 8 feet by 4 feet, which occupies the south-west angle,
and was lighted by a loop in the west wall.
A fourth chamber was contained within the west wall. It was entered by a
doorway now broken down, opening into a passage 2 feet 8 inches broad by
19 feet long, lighted by two loops in the outer wall, one of which was in a
garderobe, and in the broken wall is seen a shaft descending from an upper
opening from the north chamber; three in the south wall, of which two open
from the south chamber, and the third from the west chamber, which has
also two others in the west wall.
The south-east angle is occupied by a well-staircase 11 feet 8 inches
diameter, which rises to the roof, communicating by a short lobby with each
floor. The only access to the basement was by this staircase from the first
floor.
The first or main floor was divided by the cross-wall into a larger east (e)
and a smaller west chamber (d), and a shelf or set-off reduces some of the
walls by a foot, and enlarges the inner area accordingly. At this level also
the walls contained several mural chambers. The main, and indeed the only
entrance to the tower was on this floor in the east wall, about 10 feet from
the ground. The doorway, a plain rounded arch of 5 feet 4 inches opening
(f), led into a passage of 6 feet breadth, opening direct into the eastern
chamber. There was no portcullis, and the only defence was a stout door,
barred. In the south wall of the passage a small doorway led into a chamber
in the east wall, 6 feet wide by 14 feet long, and which has a loop in its
outer wall, and no doubt opened by a doorway, now broken down, into the
east chamber. On the north side of the doorway, but not communicating
with the passage, the north-east angle of the building is occupied by a
second mural chamber 14 feet long by 9 feet broad, also vaulted (g). In the
north wall of this chamber is a fire-place with a concave back, and at the
east end is a loop. It was entered from the east chamber by a doorway, now
broken down, in its south wall, and this door led into a small lobby, cut off
by a cross-wall from the chamber with the fire-place.
A third mural chamber is entered from the larger room by a small door in
the south wall. This opens into a passage 2 feet 6 inches broad, and 33 feet
long, lighted by a couple of loops in its south wall, and terminating in a
small chamber about 8 feet by 4 feet, which occupies the south-west angle,
and was lighted by a loop in the west wall.
A fourth chamber was contained within the west wall. It was entered by a
doorway now broken down, opening into a passage 2 feet 8 inches broad by
19 feet long, lighted by two loops in the outer wall, one of which was in a
garderobe, and in the broken wall is seen a shaft descending from an upper
Page 301
garderobe, possibly in the second floor or on the battlements. The mural
chambers are all vaulted. At the south-east angle a doorway and lobby lead
into the winding staircase. This main floor was lighted by three windows,
one in the north and one in the south wall of the larger apartment, and one
in the west wall of the smaller room. These windows are all alike. Their
recesses are flat sided and round headed, and are open to the floor-level.
They are 8 feet wide. Their framework or tracery is gone, so that it is
impossible to say precisely how they were closed in. Their flat sides give to
these three window recesses very much the appearance of doorways. This
floor was not vaulted, but ceiled with timber in the ordinary way.
The upper or second floor is a mere ruin and inaccessible, only fragments
of its walls remaining. The least injured part is about the head of the
staircase at the south-east angle. Here the sides of the doorway and one wall
of the lobby remain.
The material of the building is a rough strong sandstone, weathered to a
dark colour. The walls, inside and out, were faced with coarse ashlar, well
executed, and on three of the exterior sides remaining unhurt. The west face
has been stripped, no doubt for use for later buildings. The interior also has
been almost wholly stripped, just enough remaining to show what has been.
The basement is encumbered with the fragments of the vaulting, so that the
floor is nowhere to be seen. There may therefore have been a well. The
stairs have been designedly broken away, so that the staircase remains an
empty cylinder. The entrance to it, at the base, is much broken. The three
southern loops are tolerably perfect; one quite so.
On the first floor the larger or eastern chamber was probably the Hall.
The main entrance had no forebuilding or exterior covering, nor is there any
trace of a stone staircase or of a drawbridge. It seems to have been reached
by steps of wood. The chamber in the north-east angle, containing a
fireplace, full large for its size, may have been the kitchen. This is the only
fireplace now seen in the building, though there may have been others in
the cross-wall. The two chambers about the south-west angle seem to have
been garderobes, one opening from each of the main rooms. The three
windows are unusually large, and being only 12 or 14 feet from the ground,
must have much weakened the strength of the place. No doubt the framing
or tracery filling up the apertures was heavy and strong, but still no tracery
or mullion could have resisted a heavy stone from a catapult, nor indeed
chambers are all vaulted. At the south-east angle a doorway and lobby lead
into the winding staircase. This main floor was lighted by three windows,
one in the north and one in the south wall of the larger apartment, and one
in the west wall of the smaller room. These windows are all alike. Their
recesses are flat sided and round headed, and are open to the floor-level.
They are 8 feet wide. Their framework or tracery is gone, so that it is
impossible to say precisely how they were closed in. Their flat sides give to
these three window recesses very much the appearance of doorways. This
floor was not vaulted, but ceiled with timber in the ordinary way.
The upper or second floor is a mere ruin and inaccessible, only fragments
of its walls remaining. The least injured part is about the head of the
staircase at the south-east angle. Here the sides of the doorway and one wall
of the lobby remain.
The material of the building is a rough strong sandstone, weathered to a
dark colour. The walls, inside and out, were faced with coarse ashlar, well
executed, and on three of the exterior sides remaining unhurt. The west face
has been stripped, no doubt for use for later buildings. The interior also has
been almost wholly stripped, just enough remaining to show what has been.
The basement is encumbered with the fragments of the vaulting, so that the
floor is nowhere to be seen. There may therefore have been a well. The
stairs have been designedly broken away, so that the staircase remains an
empty cylinder. The entrance to it, at the base, is much broken. The three
southern loops are tolerably perfect; one quite so.
On the first floor the larger or eastern chamber was probably the Hall.
The main entrance had no forebuilding or exterior covering, nor is there any
trace of a stone staircase or of a drawbridge. It seems to have been reached
by steps of wood. The chamber in the north-east angle, containing a
fireplace, full large for its size, may have been the kitchen. This is the only
fireplace now seen in the building, though there may have been others in
the cross-wall. The two chambers about the south-west angle seem to have
been garderobes, one opening from each of the main rooms. The three
windows are unusually large, and being only 12 or 14 feet from the ground,
must have much weakened the strength of the place. No doubt the framing
or tracery filling up the apertures was heavy and strong, but still no tracery
or mullion could have resisted a heavy stone from a catapult, nor indeed
Page 302
could the shell of wall containing the staircase. Probably the borderers,
whose raids the tower was intended to resist, had no military engines at
their command.
As the roof is gone, with the walls that immediately supported it, it is
impossible to say whether it was flat or pitched at an angle. There is seen,
however, in the west wall, at its north end, a patch of ashlar cut to a low
slope, evidently that of a former roof, and there is a like indication in what
remains of the cross-wall, at its south end; also about the same level is a
square hole, which evidently carried the water from the gutter on one side
of the wall to that on the other. The level of these indications of a low-
pitched roof is about that of the floor of the upper story, and many feet
below even the present top of the wall. It looks as though here, as at
Richmond, Ludlow, Porchester, Bridgenorth, Kenilworth, and in many other
instances, the original roof had been over the first story, and the second
story had been an afterthought, generally not more than a few years later.
Possibly the whole wall above the string-course is an addition, but if so it is
a very early one.
Bowes tower may safely be pronounced to be very late Norman in style.
The cross-walls are certainly original, but the vaulting was probably an
addition, and, to judge from the skewbacks of two ribs in the south wall, of
the Decorated period. The basements of Norman keeps were very rarely
vaulted, and here, as at Brougham, Richmond, and Carlisle, the vaulting
looks later than the walls.
The two open sides of the tower, the west and south, show that it was
guarded by a ditch at from 40 to 70 feet distance, and this may have been
continued all round. The tower stands a few yards south of the highway
which traverses this district from east to west, and represents the Roman
Way from Greta Bridge by Brough, Appleby, and Brougham, with branches
northwards to Alston and Carlisle. At Bowes, as at Brough and Brougham,
the road was strengthened by a camp, and Bowes tower stands within the
camp, near its western boundary, and to the south of its central line. The
ditches of the camp may be traced to the north and west, and partly to the
east, and its area is about 130 yards, by 140 yards: to the south the ground
falls sharply towards the deep bed of the Greta, and is defended by terraces
and scarps, in which, a little west of the centre, is an opening probably for
communication with the river. The remains of a Roman bath have been laid
whose raids the tower was intended to resist, had no military engines at
their command.
As the roof is gone, with the walls that immediately supported it, it is
impossible to say whether it was flat or pitched at an angle. There is seen,
however, in the west wall, at its north end, a patch of ashlar cut to a low
slope, evidently that of a former roof, and there is a like indication in what
remains of the cross-wall, at its south end; also about the same level is a
square hole, which evidently carried the water from the gutter on one side
of the wall to that on the other. The level of these indications of a low-
pitched roof is about that of the floor of the upper story, and many feet
below even the present top of the wall. It looks as though here, as at
Richmond, Ludlow, Porchester, Bridgenorth, Kenilworth, and in many other
instances, the original roof had been over the first story, and the second
story had been an afterthought, generally not more than a few years later.
Possibly the whole wall above the string-course is an addition, but if so it is
a very early one.
Bowes tower may safely be pronounced to be very late Norman in style.
The cross-walls are certainly original, but the vaulting was probably an
addition, and, to judge from the skewbacks of two ribs in the south wall, of
the Decorated period. The basements of Norman keeps were very rarely
vaulted, and here, as at Brougham, Richmond, and Carlisle, the vaulting
looks later than the walls.
The two open sides of the tower, the west and south, show that it was
guarded by a ditch at from 40 to 70 feet distance, and this may have been
continued all round. The tower stands a few yards south of the highway
which traverses this district from east to west, and represents the Roman
Way from Greta Bridge by Brough, Appleby, and Brougham, with branches
northwards to Alston and Carlisle. At Bowes, as at Brough and Brougham,
the road was strengthened by a camp, and Bowes tower stands within the
camp, near its western boundary, and to the south of its central line. The
ditches of the camp may be traced to the north and west, and partly to the
east, and its area is about 130 yards, by 140 yards: to the south the ground
falls sharply towards the deep bed of the Greta, and is defended by terraces
and scarps, in which, a little west of the centre, is an opening probably for
communication with the river. The remains of a Roman bath have been laid
Page 303
open outside the south-east angle, and a fragment of lead pipe, no doubt
feeding it, was dug up in the adjacent churchyard. To the west are the
remains of four small barrows in Roundhill Close, and the defence of the
camp is strengthened by two watercourses at a short distance on the east
and west fronts. Besides this camp there is one at Greta Bridge, 6 miles to
the east, and two others at 6 and 8 miles to the west, of which one known as
Raycross is regarded as a British camp, adopted by the Romans. The cross,
commemorated in the name, is said to have been set up in 1067 to mark the
boundary then agreed upon between England and Scotland. The further
camp is known as Maiden Castle. Bowes is held to be the Roman Lavatræ.
The position is well chosen, having considerable local elevation. It is 928
feet above the sea, and commands extensive views, especially to the south
and east.
As the history of North Yorkshire is as yet unwritten, but little is known
as to Bowes, save that both manor and castle were always held by the Earls
of Richmond. King John, that most restless of monarchs, was at the castle
on the 16th February, 7th of his reign, that is, in 1206, when he thence,
“apud Bouas,” addressed a mandate to the Foresters of Nottingham, and
again, according to Mr. Hunter’s itinerary, 16th June, in the 14th year of his
reign, 1212. “The Earls of Richmond,” says Camden, “here levied a through
toll, and set up a gallows.” Rymer also gives a charter of Henry III. to Peter,
Earl of Richmond, dated 25th March, 1262, granting and confirming to him,
with other lands, “Villas de Richemund et Boghes, cum castris et
wapentachiis, et omnibus aliis pertinentiis suis;” and “Bowes castrum” was
held of Peter of Savoy, 10 Edward I., and “Bowes Manerium” of John le
Dreux the elder, Earl of Richmond, 13 Edward I. 19 Edward I., William de
Felton was put in charge of Richmond and Bowes, &c., for the King. John
le Dreux, Earl of Richmond, had it 5 Edward III. 36 Edward III., Margaret
de Dacre died, seised of Bowes manor, as, 4 Henry VI., did Joan, widow of
John de Gray, Chevalier; and, 14 Henry VI., John Duke of Bedford. 22
Henry VI., two parts of the manor or lordship of Bowes were held by John
Duke of Somerset. Its present owner is Mr. Pulleine of Clifton. Mention is
made of a Bowes in Northumberland in the reign of Edward III. and of a
tenement called Bowes in Boulne in Sussex, 4 Henry IV. The castle was
probably built late in the 12th century, and dismantled by either Charles or
the parliament in the 17th century. It is a very good example of a late
feeding it, was dug up in the adjacent churchyard. To the west are the
remains of four small barrows in Roundhill Close, and the defence of the
camp is strengthened by two watercourses at a short distance on the east
and west fronts. Besides this camp there is one at Greta Bridge, 6 miles to
the east, and two others at 6 and 8 miles to the west, of which one known as
Raycross is regarded as a British camp, adopted by the Romans. The cross,
commemorated in the name, is said to have been set up in 1067 to mark the
boundary then agreed upon between England and Scotland. The further
camp is known as Maiden Castle. Bowes is held to be the Roman Lavatræ.
The position is well chosen, having considerable local elevation. It is 928
feet above the sea, and commands extensive views, especially to the south
and east.
As the history of North Yorkshire is as yet unwritten, but little is known
as to Bowes, save that both manor and castle were always held by the Earls
of Richmond. King John, that most restless of monarchs, was at the castle
on the 16th February, 7th of his reign, that is, in 1206, when he thence,
“apud Bouas,” addressed a mandate to the Foresters of Nottingham, and
again, according to Mr. Hunter’s itinerary, 16th June, in the 14th year of his
reign, 1212. “The Earls of Richmond,” says Camden, “here levied a through
toll, and set up a gallows.” Rymer also gives a charter of Henry III. to Peter,
Earl of Richmond, dated 25th March, 1262, granting and confirming to him,
with other lands, “Villas de Richemund et Boghes, cum castris et
wapentachiis, et omnibus aliis pertinentiis suis;” and “Bowes castrum” was
held of Peter of Savoy, 10 Edward I., and “Bowes Manerium” of John le
Dreux the elder, Earl of Richmond, 13 Edward I. 19 Edward I., William de
Felton was put in charge of Richmond and Bowes, &c., for the King. John
le Dreux, Earl of Richmond, had it 5 Edward III. 36 Edward III., Margaret
de Dacre died, seised of Bowes manor, as, 4 Henry VI., did Joan, widow of
John de Gray, Chevalier; and, 14 Henry VI., John Duke of Bedford. 22
Henry VI., two parts of the manor or lordship of Bowes were held by John
Duke of Somerset. Its present owner is Mr. Pulleine of Clifton. Mention is
made of a Bowes in Northumberland in the reign of Edward III. and of a
tenement called Bowes in Boulne in Sussex, 4 Henry IV. The castle was
probably built late in the 12th century, and dismantled by either Charles or
the parliament in the 17th century. It is a very good example of a late
Page 304
Norman keep. The mill, the almost invariable appendage of an early castle,
stood upon the river Greta.
stood upon the river Greta.
Page 305
THE CASTLE OF BRAMBER, SUSSEX.
OF the shires of England there is none more intensely English than Sussex.
Its name, the names of the most central of its two capital towns, of its
principal and secondary divisions, of its parishes, and in a very remarkable
degree of its inhabitants, are but little changed from those they bore on the
eve of the Conquest, and when under the sway of Godwin and Harold. Even
the not infrequent marks of Norman occupation, in the form of parish
churches, abbeys, and castles of great strength and durability, were many of
them grafted upon foundations dating from the days of Alfred and Egbert.
This is the case with Selsey, the ecclesiastical parent of the see of
Chichester, with Bosham, Malling, Steyning, and other religious houses;
and Arundel, Bramber, Knapp, Hastings, and Lewes, all great castles in
their day, were the seats of English chiefs for centuries, before their banks
were crested with walls of masonry, or their mounds crowned with keeps
constructed after the Norman pattern. Pevensey, indeed, boasts a still earlier
origin.
British remains in Sussex are but scanty. A few of the larger and more
elevated of the hill-camps, and those of irregular form, as Cissbury, which
includes 60 acres, are supposed to be the work of the Regni, the earliest
recorded inhabitants of the district. It is also difficult not to see in the Arun,
the Adur, and the Ouse, names corresponding to the Aeron, the Dour, and
the Usk or Esk, by which many streams in Celtic countries are still
designated. Glynde has been claimed as a Celtic name, but it is very rare,
especially in Sussex, to find the name of a parish of other than Teutonic
origin.
Of the Roman period the traces are more numerous. The main road
intersecting the county from Chichester towards London is undoubtedly of
that date, and there seems to have been at least one other from Chichester—
the Roman Regnum—to Pevensey. There remain also several rectangular
camps, as Goushill, Hollingbury, Ditchling, Highdown, and
Brighthelmstone Down, evidently Roman. Chichester, though its Latin
name probably includes an earlier appellation, has the Roman cruciform
OF the shires of England there is none more intensely English than Sussex.
Its name, the names of the most central of its two capital towns, of its
principal and secondary divisions, of its parishes, and in a very remarkable
degree of its inhabitants, are but little changed from those they bore on the
eve of the Conquest, and when under the sway of Godwin and Harold. Even
the not infrequent marks of Norman occupation, in the form of parish
churches, abbeys, and castles of great strength and durability, were many of
them grafted upon foundations dating from the days of Alfred and Egbert.
This is the case with Selsey, the ecclesiastical parent of the see of
Chichester, with Bosham, Malling, Steyning, and other religious houses;
and Arundel, Bramber, Knapp, Hastings, and Lewes, all great castles in
their day, were the seats of English chiefs for centuries, before their banks
were crested with walls of masonry, or their mounds crowned with keeps
constructed after the Norman pattern. Pevensey, indeed, boasts a still earlier
origin.
British remains in Sussex are but scanty. A few of the larger and more
elevated of the hill-camps, and those of irregular form, as Cissbury, which
includes 60 acres, are supposed to be the work of the Regni, the earliest
recorded inhabitants of the district. It is also difficult not to see in the Arun,
the Adur, and the Ouse, names corresponding to the Aeron, the Dour, and
the Usk or Esk, by which many streams in Celtic countries are still
designated. Glynde has been claimed as a Celtic name, but it is very rare,
especially in Sussex, to find the name of a parish of other than Teutonic
origin.
Of the Roman period the traces are more numerous. The main road
intersecting the county from Chichester towards London is undoubtedly of
that date, and there seems to have been at least one other from Chichester—
the Roman Regnum—to Pevensey. There remain also several rectangular
camps, as Goushill, Hollingbury, Ditchling, Highdown, and
Brighthelmstone Down, evidently Roman. Chichester, though its Latin
name probably includes an earlier appellation, has the Roman cruciform
Page 306
arrangement of its two main streets, though not the rectangular outline.
Anderida, Mutuantonis, and Mida, Roman towns of which the site is
disputed, seem to have been in Sussex; and at Bognor and other places,
pavements and foundations and inscribed stones, and other marks of Roman
habitation, have been discovered. Still the remains, whether of British or
Roman occupation, are but slight: all that speaks of law, of order, of
property, of the family tie, of the forefathers of the people, of civil or
religious polity, and of public worship—all of this character which is
ancestral, is English. This thorough uprooting of the traces of earlier
occupation is due, no doubt, to the position of Sussex upon that part of the
British coast most exposed to Saxon and Danish invasion, and which bore
the attacks of those formidable invaders when at their earliest and fiercest.
Sussex was late to come under the humanising influences of Christianity,
remaining Pagan till the middle of the seventh century. The remarkable
conservation, to our days, of the names and divisions is probably due to the
very peculiar configuration of the district, and to the isolation produced by
its steep and lofty frontier ridges, and by the dense woodland which
covered, and to some extent does still cover, its central part. As the position
of the principal castles is determined by this configuration, a few words
concerning it will not be out of place.
Sussex forms the western half of a chalk basin. The chalk rises in a long,
narrow, lofty, and very steep ridge, forming the northern, eastern, and
southern margins of the area, its height, reaching to 800 feet, being known
as the Downs. The North Downs divide Sussex from Surrey, the South
Downs are the frontier towards the sea. This latter ridge extends from near
Chichester to Beachy Head, while the North Downs extend to Folkestone
and Dover. The deep wooded area thus enclosed between them is the well-
known weald of Sussex. The basin is cut across obliquely by the sea, and
the south-eastern frontier of the county thus laid open for a length of about
fifty miles. In former days, however, the broad marshes of Pevensey,
Winchelsea, and Romney closed this opening with a barrier as effective as
the downs themselves.
Upon these downs, and especially upon the range to the seaward, the
early sea-kings seem to have pitched their resting-places. Here are still
found such hill-camps as Woolstonbury, Caburn, Rookshill, and Cheukbury,
circular in form, and therefore neither British nor Roman, and besides these,
Anderida, Mutuantonis, and Mida, Roman towns of which the site is
disputed, seem to have been in Sussex; and at Bognor and other places,
pavements and foundations and inscribed stones, and other marks of Roman
habitation, have been discovered. Still the remains, whether of British or
Roman occupation, are but slight: all that speaks of law, of order, of
property, of the family tie, of the forefathers of the people, of civil or
religious polity, and of public worship—all of this character which is
ancestral, is English. This thorough uprooting of the traces of earlier
occupation is due, no doubt, to the position of Sussex upon that part of the
British coast most exposed to Saxon and Danish invasion, and which bore
the attacks of those formidable invaders when at their earliest and fiercest.
Sussex was late to come under the humanising influences of Christianity,
remaining Pagan till the middle of the seventh century. The remarkable
conservation, to our days, of the names and divisions is probably due to the
very peculiar configuration of the district, and to the isolation produced by
its steep and lofty frontier ridges, and by the dense woodland which
covered, and to some extent does still cover, its central part. As the position
of the principal castles is determined by this configuration, a few words
concerning it will not be out of place.
Sussex forms the western half of a chalk basin. The chalk rises in a long,
narrow, lofty, and very steep ridge, forming the northern, eastern, and
southern margins of the area, its height, reaching to 800 feet, being known
as the Downs. The North Downs divide Sussex from Surrey, the South
Downs are the frontier towards the sea. This latter ridge extends from near
Chichester to Beachy Head, while the North Downs extend to Folkestone
and Dover. The deep wooded area thus enclosed between them is the well-
known weald of Sussex. The basin is cut across obliquely by the sea, and
the south-eastern frontier of the county thus laid open for a length of about
fifty miles. In former days, however, the broad marshes of Pevensey,
Winchelsea, and Romney closed this opening with a barrier as effective as
the downs themselves.
Upon these downs, and especially upon the range to the seaward, the
early sea-kings seem to have pitched their resting-places. Here are still
found such hill-camps as Woolstonbury, Caburn, Rookshill, and Cheukbury,
circular in form, and therefore neither British nor Roman, and besides these,
Page 307
several others, as Newhaven, Seaford, and Burling, which are segments of
circles, and, like Flamborough Head, enclose headlands, and are attributed,
with some probability, to the Danes. It seems the general opinion that these
circular or segmental earthworks preceded the mounds and banks found in
the interior of the country and upon lower ground, the work of the same
people after their settlement and civilisation.
Sussex is the only county the primary divisions of which bear the names
of rapes; of these it contains six: Hastings, Pevensey, Lewes, Bramber,
Arundel, and Chichester, subordinate to which are sixty-five hundreds; each
rape contains a portion of seaboard, a river, a haven, and a fortress. The
rivers are the Lavant, which nearly encircles the city of Chichester, and falls
into one head of the Bosham estuary, the port of Chichester—the name is
thought to be a corruption of the Saxon hlifian, a rising, because the springs
rise annually from deep sources;—the Arun, which descends the dell
bearing its name, cleaving the chalk-range, and reaches the sea at Little
Hampton; the Adur, the river of Bramber, which, also by a pass in the chalk,
reaches the sea at Shoreham; the Ouse, the river of Lewes, which, through a
narrow gorge, now joins the sea at Newhaven, instead of, as formerly,
flowing out at Seaford. The Cuckmere is the river of Pevensey, but it leaves
that haven far to the east, and descends, also by a gap in the chalk, to the
sea, west of Beachy Head; and, finally, the Rother, the river of the rape of
Hastings, but the common boundary of Sussex and Kent, and which falls
into the sea at Rye. Pevensey Haven, though deprived of the Cuckmere, is
the receptacle for a number of lesser streams, by which the upland waters
formerly flooded that extensive level.
The fortresses of the rapes are also six:—Chichester, probably of Roman
origin, long since destroyed; Arundel, Bramber, Lewes, and Hastings, all of
præ-Norman date; Pevensey, of Roman origin. Ella, who landed a.d. 477,
took possession of Chichester. All were the seats of English lords, and all
were accepted by the Normans as well-chosen positions, and by them were
occupied and strengthened. Knepp or Knapp Castle, subordinate to
Bramber, in the same rape, like it, is of English origin.
Of the six castles, three, Arundel, Bramber, and Lewes, are posted at the
upper openings of narrow gaps in the chalk downs. Chichester is placed to
the east of and outside the chalk range. Pevensey stands within the weald,
among the low marshes by which that tract opens upon the sea; and
circles, and, like Flamborough Head, enclose headlands, and are attributed,
with some probability, to the Danes. It seems the general opinion that these
circular or segmental earthworks preceded the mounds and banks found in
the interior of the country and upon lower ground, the work of the same
people after their settlement and civilisation.
Sussex is the only county the primary divisions of which bear the names
of rapes; of these it contains six: Hastings, Pevensey, Lewes, Bramber,
Arundel, and Chichester, subordinate to which are sixty-five hundreds; each
rape contains a portion of seaboard, a river, a haven, and a fortress. The
rivers are the Lavant, which nearly encircles the city of Chichester, and falls
into one head of the Bosham estuary, the port of Chichester—the name is
thought to be a corruption of the Saxon hlifian, a rising, because the springs
rise annually from deep sources;—the Arun, which descends the dell
bearing its name, cleaving the chalk-range, and reaches the sea at Little
Hampton; the Adur, the river of Bramber, which, also by a pass in the chalk,
reaches the sea at Shoreham; the Ouse, the river of Lewes, which, through a
narrow gorge, now joins the sea at Newhaven, instead of, as formerly,
flowing out at Seaford. The Cuckmere is the river of Pevensey, but it leaves
that haven far to the east, and descends, also by a gap in the chalk, to the
sea, west of Beachy Head; and, finally, the Rother, the river of the rape of
Hastings, but the common boundary of Sussex and Kent, and which falls
into the sea at Rye. Pevensey Haven, though deprived of the Cuckmere, is
the receptacle for a number of lesser streams, by which the upland waters
formerly flooded that extensive level.
The fortresses of the rapes are also six:—Chichester, probably of Roman
origin, long since destroyed; Arundel, Bramber, Lewes, and Hastings, all of
præ-Norman date; Pevensey, of Roman origin. Ella, who landed a.d. 477,
took possession of Chichester. All were the seats of English lords, and all
were accepted by the Normans as well-chosen positions, and by them were
occupied and strengthened. Knepp or Knapp Castle, subordinate to
Bramber, in the same rape, like it, is of English origin.
Of the six castles, three, Arundel, Bramber, and Lewes, are posted at the
upper openings of narrow gaps in the chalk downs. Chichester is placed to
the east of and outside the chalk range. Pevensey stands within the weald,
among the low marshes by which that tract opens upon the sea; and
Page 308
Hastings, also within the weald, stands upon the sea-cliff, on the rocks and
sands to which it has given geologically its name.
All the six, as well as Knapp, possessed, on a larger or smaller scale, the
conical mound so characteristic of English strongholds, and each, after the
Conquest, became the chief seat of a barony, and was held by a powerful
noble. Robert de Eu had Hastings; William de Warren, Lewes; the Earl of
Moreton, Pevensey; Chichester fell to Roger de Montgomery, who there
founded a castle upon the site of the earlier works, of which part of the
mound remains. The castle stood within the city enclosure, in the north-east
quarter. It became, with Arundel, the property of the D’Albinis, and was
destroyed by order of King John, after which the third Earl of Arundel
founded on its site the Grey Friars, of which the house was probably built
with the materials of the castle. It is said that upon the mound stood a
circular or polygonal keep, as at Arundel, and that the traces of its
foundations were long visible on its summit. The mound has survived all its
Norman additions, and is the only relic of the ancient fortress that is extant.
The city, within which the castle stood, is also an early strong place. The
cruciform streets are, doubtless, Roman, as are the coins and inscribed
stones occasionally dug up; but the outline of the city is not rectangular, and
is enclosed within a bank and ditch of irregular outline, once of formidable
strength, and still in parts tolerably perfect. It is not improbable that these
earthworks are post-Roman, the work of the Romanised Britons, and
therefore earlier than the date of the castle mounds. The later wall was built
against the bank, which thus still, where it remains, forms a broad ramp or
terrace.
Arundel Castle, next eastwards to Chichester, and its superior in military
importance, stands on the right bank of and high above the Arun. The pass
is of a more open character than those to the east of it. This castle has
already been described.
Knepp Castle is in Shipley parish. It had a shell keep upon the mound, of
which traces remain, but which is said to have been destroyed as early as
1216.
Bramber, the castle next eastwards of Arundel, is held to be the English
“Brymmburgh,” a fortress upon a brim or brink. It was the head of a barony,
and the chief place of the rape to which it has given name, and which
sands to which it has given geologically its name.
All the six, as well as Knapp, possessed, on a larger or smaller scale, the
conical mound so characteristic of English strongholds, and each, after the
Conquest, became the chief seat of a barony, and was held by a powerful
noble. Robert de Eu had Hastings; William de Warren, Lewes; the Earl of
Moreton, Pevensey; Chichester fell to Roger de Montgomery, who there
founded a castle upon the site of the earlier works, of which part of the
mound remains. The castle stood within the city enclosure, in the north-east
quarter. It became, with Arundel, the property of the D’Albinis, and was
destroyed by order of King John, after which the third Earl of Arundel
founded on its site the Grey Friars, of which the house was probably built
with the materials of the castle. It is said that upon the mound stood a
circular or polygonal keep, as at Arundel, and that the traces of its
foundations were long visible on its summit. The mound has survived all its
Norman additions, and is the only relic of the ancient fortress that is extant.
The city, within which the castle stood, is also an early strong place. The
cruciform streets are, doubtless, Roman, as are the coins and inscribed
stones occasionally dug up; but the outline of the city is not rectangular, and
is enclosed within a bank and ditch of irregular outline, once of formidable
strength, and still in parts tolerably perfect. It is not improbable that these
earthworks are post-Roman, the work of the Romanised Britons, and
therefore earlier than the date of the castle mounds. The later wall was built
against the bank, which thus still, where it remains, forms a broad ramp or
terrace.
Arundel Castle, next eastwards to Chichester, and its superior in military
importance, stands on the right bank of and high above the Arun. The pass
is of a more open character than those to the east of it. This castle has
already been described.
Knepp Castle is in Shipley parish. It had a shell keep upon the mound, of
which traces remain, but which is said to have been destroyed as early as
1216.
Bramber, the castle next eastwards of Arundel, is held to be the English
“Brymmburgh,” a fortress upon a brim or brink. It was the head of a barony,
and the chief place of the rape to which it has given name, and which
Page 309
includes forty-two parishes. The rape extends about twenty-four miles from
the Surrey border to the sea, with a width of about eight miles. Narrow as it
is, it contained till 1832 the four Parliamentary boroughs of Shoreham,
Bramber, Steyning, and Horsham, returning eight members to Parliament,
now reduced to three. The castle stands on the west side of, and just above,
the channel by which the Adur reaches the sea at Shoreham. The pass thus
commanded is four miles long, and half a mile wide; the bottom flat and
marshy, the sides very steep and rising to 600 or 700 feet. New Shoreham,
founded about a.d. 1200, by the Norman lord of Bramber, stands upon the
seashore; but old Shoreham, the English port, is now half a mile inland, the
deposits from the river and the débris of the chalk range having encroached
considerably upon the sea. Combe and St. Botolph’s, ancient parishes, are
placed within the pass, and higher up upon the same side is the village of
Bramber, standing upon slightly rising ground at the foot of the western
hills, and upon the edge of a broad tract of level land, still wet, and formerly
impracticable, across which the sluggish and frequently flooded Adur takes
a rather winding course.
The castle is placed a little to the north-west of the village, and, as was
the English custom, close to the parish church. From thence a raised
causeway is carried across the valley, leading to the village of Sele or
Beeding, the Bedinges of Domesday, where was once a religious house
dependent upon the castle. The village, composed of one short street,
adjoins the causeway, and near it was discovered, in 1839, the piling and
piers in masonry of an ancient bridge by which the road was carried across
one of the bye-streams of the Adur. A charter of 1075 refers to this bridge
and to a chapel upon it, as “Stᵘˢ. Petrus de veteri ponte.” The causeway,
however, claims to be of higher antiquity, and to have carried a Roman road
across the marsh then probably flooded by the sea.
In the construction of the fortress, advantage was taken of a knoll of the
lower or grey chalk, roughly oval in figure, and about 120 feet high above
the river. This was levelled on the top and scarped round the sides so as to
form a more or less rounded area, 560 feet north and south, by 280 feet east
and west. The scarp descended above 180 feet at an angle of 45 feet, or a
slope of one to one, into a ditch about 20 feet wide at the bottom, and the
opposite side of which, or counterscarp, rose about 40 feet at a similar
angle, so that the ditch at the counterscarp level was 100 feet broad, and the
the Surrey border to the sea, with a width of about eight miles. Narrow as it
is, it contained till 1832 the four Parliamentary boroughs of Shoreham,
Bramber, Steyning, and Horsham, returning eight members to Parliament,
now reduced to three. The castle stands on the west side of, and just above,
the channel by which the Adur reaches the sea at Shoreham. The pass thus
commanded is four miles long, and half a mile wide; the bottom flat and
marshy, the sides very steep and rising to 600 or 700 feet. New Shoreham,
founded about a.d. 1200, by the Norman lord of Bramber, stands upon the
seashore; but old Shoreham, the English port, is now half a mile inland, the
deposits from the river and the débris of the chalk range having encroached
considerably upon the sea. Combe and St. Botolph’s, ancient parishes, are
placed within the pass, and higher up upon the same side is the village of
Bramber, standing upon slightly rising ground at the foot of the western
hills, and upon the edge of a broad tract of level land, still wet, and formerly
impracticable, across which the sluggish and frequently flooded Adur takes
a rather winding course.
The castle is placed a little to the north-west of the village, and, as was
the English custom, close to the parish church. From thence a raised
causeway is carried across the valley, leading to the village of Sele or
Beeding, the Bedinges of Domesday, where was once a religious house
dependent upon the castle. The village, composed of one short street,
adjoins the causeway, and near it was discovered, in 1839, the piling and
piers in masonry of an ancient bridge by which the road was carried across
one of the bye-streams of the Adur. A charter of 1075 refers to this bridge
and to a chapel upon it, as “Stᵘˢ. Petrus de veteri ponte.” The causeway,
however, claims to be of higher antiquity, and to have carried a Roman road
across the marsh then probably flooded by the sea.
In the construction of the fortress, advantage was taken of a knoll of the
lower or grey chalk, roughly oval in figure, and about 120 feet high above
the river. This was levelled on the top and scarped round the sides so as to
form a more or less rounded area, 560 feet north and south, by 280 feet east
and west. The scarp descended above 180 feet at an angle of 45 feet, or a
slope of one to one, into a ditch about 20 feet wide at the bottom, and the
opposite side of which, or counterscarp, rose about 40 feet at a similar
angle, so that the ditch at the counterscarp level was 100 feet broad, and the
Page 310
crest of the scarp rose 30 feet to 40 feet above the ground opposite. A very
formidable defence. Towards the east, where the ground was low, the
counterscarp was not above 20 feet high, and to add to the depth of the
ditch, it was crested by a light bank, from which the ground sloped towards
the marsh. On the north and north-west, where the ditch was at its deepest,
and the ground was high, the slope outwards is gentle, falling off for a
furlong or so. To the west, where there is a valley now occupied by the
railway, the ground is low, and here the outer side of the ditch, forming the
crest of the counterscarp, is a narrow ridge, as at Arques, succeeded by a
very steep slope. Thus those who approached the place on that side, after
toiling up a steep and dangerous ascent, would only find themselves on the
outer edge of a deep ditch, with a second still higher and steeper ascent
beyond it. Towards the south the ditch crosses instead of skirting the hill,
and is much less deep. Here was the entrance, and upon the small tail of the
knoll thus cut off is placed the parish church, standing, therefore, just
outside the ditch, and in its turn defended by the slope of the hill, and by a
hollow way which runs a few yards within the edge of the marsh, the level
of which is 8 feet or 10 feet below it.
formidable defence. Towards the east, where the ground was low, the
counterscarp was not above 20 feet high, and to add to the depth of the
ditch, it was crested by a light bank, from which the ground sloped towards
the marsh. On the north and north-west, where the ditch was at its deepest,
and the ground was high, the slope outwards is gentle, falling off for a
furlong or so. To the west, where there is a valley now occupied by the
railway, the ground is low, and here the outer side of the ditch, forming the
crest of the counterscarp, is a narrow ridge, as at Arques, succeeded by a
very steep slope. Thus those who approached the place on that side, after
toiling up a steep and dangerous ascent, would only find themselves on the
outer edge of a deep ditch, with a second still higher and steeper ascent
beyond it. Towards the south the ditch crosses instead of skirting the hill,
and is much less deep. Here was the entrance, and upon the small tail of the
knoll thus cut off is placed the parish church, standing, therefore, just
outside the ditch, and in its turn defended by the slope of the hill, and by a
hollow way which runs a few yards within the edge of the marsh, the level
of which is 8 feet or 10 feet below it.
Page 311
C. Church. F. Foundations. M. Mound.
D. Ditch. K. Keep. P. Platform.
E. Entrance. L. Lowland and
Marsh.
BRAMBER CASTLE.
Upon the table summit, 160 feet from its northern, and 40 feet from its
eastern, margin, was thrown up a conical mound, about 40 feet high, and 70
feet diameter at its summit. It is wholly artificial, and the material has
evidently been scooped up from the surface of the area, which has thus been
rendered slightly hollow, the surface rising gently towards the mound, and
towards the outer margin of the area, that is, the crest of the scarp. The
mound does not appear to have had any ditch proper to itself. It has been
dug into and disfigured on its southern side. Possibly there have been
buildings there. On the north the original and usual form is untouched. The
slope is very steep. This was the “burgh” or keep of the original fortress.
What stood upon the burgh, or how the margin of the area was originally
defended, is of course a matter of conjecture; but considering the wealth of
D. Ditch. K. Keep. P. Platform.
E. Entrance. L. Lowland and
Marsh.
BRAMBER CASTLE.
Upon the table summit, 160 feet from its northern, and 40 feet from its
eastern, margin, was thrown up a conical mound, about 40 feet high, and 70
feet diameter at its summit. It is wholly artificial, and the material has
evidently been scooped up from the surface of the area, which has thus been
rendered slightly hollow, the surface rising gently towards the mound, and
towards the outer margin of the area, that is, the crest of the scarp. The
mound does not appear to have had any ditch proper to itself. It has been
dug into and disfigured on its southern side. Possibly there have been
buildings there. On the north the original and usual form is untouched. The
slope is very steep. This was the “burgh” or keep of the original fortress.
What stood upon the burgh, or how the margin of the area was originally
defended, is of course a matter of conjecture; but considering the wealth of
Page 312
timber in the district, it is probable that the defences were all of that
material, as well as the adjacent church, and thus supposing, we may figure
to ourselves the “aula” of Earl Guerd, who was the lord of Bramber during
the reign of the Confessor. The position is a very strong one, and the view
from it to the east and north-east extensive.
Bramber is one of the castles named in Domesday. It was then a part of
the lordship of Washington, and held by Wm. de Braose, the Norman
grantee. “Ipse Wills. [de Braiosa] tenet Wasingetune. Guerd comes tenuit
tempore Regis Edwardi. Tunc se defend. pro LIX. hid. Modo non dat
geldum. In una ex his hidis sedet Castellum Brembre.”
William de Braose here mentioned probably was present at Hastings. A
charter cited by Dugdale, dated 1075–6, shows him to have been of Braose,
near Saumur, on the Loire. He had an immediate grant of nearly the whole
rape of Bramber, and he adopted the castle as his chief seat.
Although local history is silent as to De Braose’s operations, much may
be extracted from the evidence of the existing ruins. Around the edge of the
table area he or his immediate successor built a wall of enceinte. Where the
ground was sound, this was founded upon the edge of the slope, but where
the chalk had given way, the foundations were laid 3 feet or 4 feet lower
down, so that the wall was built as a revetment, and the ground within
formed a ramp against it. Of this wall of enceinte some large portions
remain, and its foundations may be traced all round. It was 7 feet to 9 feet
thick, from 10 feet to 18 feet high inside, and outside from 20 feet to 30
feet. It was built entirely of large pebbles, as from the sea-beach, laid in
very thick beds of mortar. Of course, such stones could have no bond, and
are about the worst material that could, under ordinary circumstances, have
been selected, but so firm is the mortar that the wall remains sound, and in
places, even the parapet, 2 feet thick, and composed of the same material, is
standing. Towards the north-east is a sharp angle, and another of some
boldness towards the south-west, but neither there nor elsewhere do there
seem to have been any mural towers, although it must be confessed that a
dense underwood of thorn and bramble renders a close inspection of the
exterior impracticable.
The Norman keep stood upon or just within the line of the enceinte, at its
south end, close to the east of the entrance, and opposite to the church. It
material, as well as the adjacent church, and thus supposing, we may figure
to ourselves the “aula” of Earl Guerd, who was the lord of Bramber during
the reign of the Confessor. The position is a very strong one, and the view
from it to the east and north-east extensive.
Bramber is one of the castles named in Domesday. It was then a part of
the lordship of Washington, and held by Wm. de Braose, the Norman
grantee. “Ipse Wills. [de Braiosa] tenet Wasingetune. Guerd comes tenuit
tempore Regis Edwardi. Tunc se defend. pro LIX. hid. Modo non dat
geldum. In una ex his hidis sedet Castellum Brembre.”
William de Braose here mentioned probably was present at Hastings. A
charter cited by Dugdale, dated 1075–6, shows him to have been of Braose,
near Saumur, on the Loire. He had an immediate grant of nearly the whole
rape of Bramber, and he adopted the castle as his chief seat.
Although local history is silent as to De Braose’s operations, much may
be extracted from the evidence of the existing ruins. Around the edge of the
table area he or his immediate successor built a wall of enceinte. Where the
ground was sound, this was founded upon the edge of the slope, but where
the chalk had given way, the foundations were laid 3 feet or 4 feet lower
down, so that the wall was built as a revetment, and the ground within
formed a ramp against it. Of this wall of enceinte some large portions
remain, and its foundations may be traced all round. It was 7 feet to 9 feet
thick, from 10 feet to 18 feet high inside, and outside from 20 feet to 30
feet. It was built entirely of large pebbles, as from the sea-beach, laid in
very thick beds of mortar. Of course, such stones could have no bond, and
are about the worst material that could, under ordinary circumstances, have
been selected, but so firm is the mortar that the wall remains sound, and in
places, even the parapet, 2 feet thick, and composed of the same material, is
standing. Towards the north-east is a sharp angle, and another of some
boldness towards the south-west, but neither there nor elsewhere do there
seem to have been any mural towers, although it must be confessed that a
dense underwood of thorn and bramble renders a close inspection of the
exterior impracticable.
The Norman keep stood upon or just within the line of the enceinte, at its
south end, close to the east of the entrance, and opposite to the church. It
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was a square of 40 feet, standing north and south, and about 240 feet south
of the mound. Its walls at the base were 9 feet 6 inches thick, and at the
summit but little, if anything less, and its exterior face was vertical. The
basement chamber at the ground level was 21 feet square and 14 feet high,
and above it were three stages, all with timber floors. The height to the
rampart wall is, by guess, about 70 feet, or a diameter and three-quarters.
The first floor, 23 feet high, either rested upon joists which were supported
by the north and south walls, now gone, or, which is more probable, upon a
ledge in the wall, which is reduced in thickness at that level about 6 inches,
as seen on the west side. Only the west wall remains, and the lower 6 feet or
8 feet of the east wall. The north and south walls are entirely removed. The
west wall is solid at the base, but the east wall is recessed in a curious way
inside, and seems besides to have contained two cavities like cesspits. The
whole mass has, however, been so pulled about, that little can be made of it.
At the first floor, also, the west wall is solid, save that in its south end is a
short mural passage, vaulted, which seems to have ended in a garderobe, the
vent of which is marked by a sort of vertical furrow in the wall. This
passage was probably entered by a door in the south wall, near the south-
west angle. The east floor, 19 feet high, rested upon six joists in the east and
west walls. In its west wall is a full-centred recess, 3 feet deep, 2 feet above
the floor, 5 feet wide, with jambs 7 feet high. In the recess is a window 3
feet wide, with jambs 5 feet high, also full-centred. Both recess and window
are quite plain, and are not splayed.
The third floor, 14 feet high, also rested on six joists, east and west. This
has no window to the west, but in the wall are two recesses for the vertical
beams of a roof, and at the base of each a corbel. This looks as though the
roof was inclined, as at Bridgenorth and elsewhere, at a low pitch, the north
and south walls being its gables.
There are some indications, in a foundation, as of a forebuilding attached
to the north face, where probably was the entrance. The material of the keep
is chalk flint, laid in copious beds of mortar. The flints are undressed, and
the workmanship is coursed rubble, very plain and good, but rather rough,
with a tendency to herring-bone work. The window is dressed with ashlar,
as are the hollow quoins of the interior, but there is no ornament, not even
the usual Norman pilaster or plinth. The ashlar is probably the malm rock of
the neighbourhood, a bed below the chalk, much like that used at
of the mound. Its walls at the base were 9 feet 6 inches thick, and at the
summit but little, if anything less, and its exterior face was vertical. The
basement chamber at the ground level was 21 feet square and 14 feet high,
and above it were three stages, all with timber floors. The height to the
rampart wall is, by guess, about 70 feet, or a diameter and three-quarters.
The first floor, 23 feet high, either rested upon joists which were supported
by the north and south walls, now gone, or, which is more probable, upon a
ledge in the wall, which is reduced in thickness at that level about 6 inches,
as seen on the west side. Only the west wall remains, and the lower 6 feet or
8 feet of the east wall. The north and south walls are entirely removed. The
west wall is solid at the base, but the east wall is recessed in a curious way
inside, and seems besides to have contained two cavities like cesspits. The
whole mass has, however, been so pulled about, that little can be made of it.
At the first floor, also, the west wall is solid, save that in its south end is a
short mural passage, vaulted, which seems to have ended in a garderobe, the
vent of which is marked by a sort of vertical furrow in the wall. This
passage was probably entered by a door in the south wall, near the south-
west angle. The east floor, 19 feet high, rested upon six joists in the east and
west walls. In its west wall is a full-centred recess, 3 feet deep, 2 feet above
the floor, 5 feet wide, with jambs 7 feet high. In the recess is a window 3
feet wide, with jambs 5 feet high, also full-centred. Both recess and window
are quite plain, and are not splayed.
The third floor, 14 feet high, also rested on six joists, east and west. This
has no window to the west, but in the wall are two recesses for the vertical
beams of a roof, and at the base of each a corbel. This looks as though the
roof was inclined, as at Bridgenorth and elsewhere, at a low pitch, the north
and south walls being its gables.
There are some indications, in a foundation, as of a forebuilding attached
to the north face, where probably was the entrance. The material of the keep
is chalk flint, laid in copious beds of mortar. The flints are undressed, and
the workmanship is coursed rubble, very plain and good, but rather rough,
with a tendency to herring-bone work. The window is dressed with ashlar,
as are the hollow quoins of the interior, but there is no ornament, not even
the usual Norman pilaster or plinth. The ashlar is probably the malm rock of
the neighbourhood, a bed below the chalk, much like that used at
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Dorchester, and for some of the adjacent Oxfordshire churches. Altogether,
this keep seems to be early Norman work, perhaps as early as Malling, and
was probably built by the first De Braose before 1095, when his son was in
possession.
When the keep was blown up, as it evidently was, with powder, the south
and east walls fell in four or five huge masses into the adjacent ditch, where
they remain but little altered, though obscured with vegetation. If these
were cleared, something more of the detail of the keep might be discovered.
The north wall seems to have been broken up and removed.
About 40 feet west of the keep are the remains of the entrance. So far as
can now be seen there was no considerable gatehouse, probably only an
arch in the curtain, as at Richmond. The fragment of a wall shows the
approach to have been steep, and about 40 feet from the gate was a bridge,
the pier and counter-pier of which, 13 feet apart, are still standing in the
ditch, here not above 90 feet wide and 30 feet deep. The approach to the
counter-pier rises steeply from the foot of the hill and passes the church.
The only building of which there are positive traces, beside the keep,
within the area, was a rectangular pile, built upon the curtain, 60 feet long,
and projecting 24 feet into the area. This is placed opposite to and east of
the mound, and the passage between the two was only 15 feet broad. A part
of the base of this building remains, and shows a plinth and fragment of
wall faced with squared flint. The work looks many centuries later than the
keep, and most certainly is not Norman. There is no trace of a well.
The parish church shares the protection of St. Nicholas, in common with
Old Shoreham. It is in substance Norman, probably rather later than the
castle, and was originally a cross church with a central tower. The nave and
central square remain, but the choir and transepts have been removed, and
the arches blocked up. The south door of the nave has a plain billet
moulding, but the original opening has been walled up, and a smaller
segmental doorway inserted. The cruciform plan seems to have been much
in use here. It is seen at Old Shoreham, Steyning, and Broadwater.
Bramber has little or no history. The lords were among the wildest, most
turbulent, and most unfortunate of the Norman barons. Their founder,
William de Braose, received from the Conqueror forty-one lordships in
this keep seems to be early Norman work, perhaps as early as Malling, and
was probably built by the first De Braose before 1095, when his son was in
possession.
When the keep was blown up, as it evidently was, with powder, the south
and east walls fell in four or five huge masses into the adjacent ditch, where
they remain but little altered, though obscured with vegetation. If these
were cleared, something more of the detail of the keep might be discovered.
The north wall seems to have been broken up and removed.
About 40 feet west of the keep are the remains of the entrance. So far as
can now be seen there was no considerable gatehouse, probably only an
arch in the curtain, as at Richmond. The fragment of a wall shows the
approach to have been steep, and about 40 feet from the gate was a bridge,
the pier and counter-pier of which, 13 feet apart, are still standing in the
ditch, here not above 90 feet wide and 30 feet deep. The approach to the
counter-pier rises steeply from the foot of the hill and passes the church.
The only building of which there are positive traces, beside the keep,
within the area, was a rectangular pile, built upon the curtain, 60 feet long,
and projecting 24 feet into the area. This is placed opposite to and east of
the mound, and the passage between the two was only 15 feet broad. A part
of the base of this building remains, and shows a plinth and fragment of
wall faced with squared flint. The work looks many centuries later than the
keep, and most certainly is not Norman. There is no trace of a well.
The parish church shares the protection of St. Nicholas, in common with
Old Shoreham. It is in substance Norman, probably rather later than the
castle, and was originally a cross church with a central tower. The nave and
central square remain, but the choir and transepts have been removed, and
the arches blocked up. The south door of the nave has a plain billet
moulding, but the original opening has been walled up, and a smaller
segmental doorway inserted. The cruciform plan seems to have been much
in use here. It is seen at Old Shoreham, Steyning, and Broadwater.
Bramber has little or no history. The lords were among the wildest, most
turbulent, and most unfortunate of the Norman barons. Their founder,
William de Braose, received from the Conqueror forty-one lordships in
Page 315
Sussex, chiefly in this rape, and others in Dorset, Hants, Berks, Wilts, and
Surrey. He founded St. Peter’s Priory, at Sele.
Philip, his son, adhered to Rufus, but was opposed to Henry I., and was
disinherited. He married Berta, daughter of Milo, Earl of Hereford, with
whom he had Brecknock, Gower, and other south Welsh lordships, and thus
laid the foundation of much of the power and most of the misfortunes of his
race. He probably founded the strong castles of Oystermouth and of
Swansea.
William, the grandson of the founder, recovered the estates. He founded
New Shoreham church and port. He also joined in the invasion of Ireland
with Henry II., and held the whole kingdom of Limerick in fee. He is
accused, though upon scanty evidence, of a wholesale massacre of his
Welsh neighbours at Abergavenny. His possessions in England, Wales, and
Ireland were enormous, and he also held the Honour of Braose in the
Bailliewick of Falaise, in Normandy, and a share of the Honour of Totnes.
He married Maud de Hayes or St. Valerie. For some reason not very clearly
ascertained, he became obnoxious to King John, and their strife, much
embittered by the outspeaking of his wife, led in 1210 to his attainder and
exile, and the death of his wife and William their son, it is said of
starvation, in the prison of Windsor Castle. He himself died at Paris shortly
afterwards, in 1212. He was a considerable benefactor to the Church, and it
is recorded of him that he was careful to use God’s name with great
reverence. The king seized the Rape of Bramber, and granted the barony to
Richard, Earl of Cornwall. Giles, Bishop of Hereford, and Reginald de
Braose, brothers of the attainted baron, obtained after a time a share of the
estates. Bramber was granted to the bishop, who, however, died within the
year. Finally, in the reign of Henry III., Reginald recovered Bramber and
Knapp, and most of the rest of the property, and having married Grecia,
daughter of William de la Bruere, died 6th Henry III., and was succeeded
by William his son.
William de Braose married Eve Mareschal, a co-heir of the great earl. He
fell into the hands of Prince Llewelyn, who accused him of too great
intimacy with his princess, and put him to death at Builth, it is said, by
hanging. He left four daughters co-heirs, whose descendants held the
greater part of the estates.
Surrey. He founded St. Peter’s Priory, at Sele.
Philip, his son, adhered to Rufus, but was opposed to Henry I., and was
disinherited. He married Berta, daughter of Milo, Earl of Hereford, with
whom he had Brecknock, Gower, and other south Welsh lordships, and thus
laid the foundation of much of the power and most of the misfortunes of his
race. He probably founded the strong castles of Oystermouth and of
Swansea.
William, the grandson of the founder, recovered the estates. He founded
New Shoreham church and port. He also joined in the invasion of Ireland
with Henry II., and held the whole kingdom of Limerick in fee. He is
accused, though upon scanty evidence, of a wholesale massacre of his
Welsh neighbours at Abergavenny. His possessions in England, Wales, and
Ireland were enormous, and he also held the Honour of Braose in the
Bailliewick of Falaise, in Normandy, and a share of the Honour of Totnes.
He married Maud de Hayes or St. Valerie. For some reason not very clearly
ascertained, he became obnoxious to King John, and their strife, much
embittered by the outspeaking of his wife, led in 1210 to his attainder and
exile, and the death of his wife and William their son, it is said of
starvation, in the prison of Windsor Castle. He himself died at Paris shortly
afterwards, in 1212. He was a considerable benefactor to the Church, and it
is recorded of him that he was careful to use God’s name with great
reverence. The king seized the Rape of Bramber, and granted the barony to
Richard, Earl of Cornwall. Giles, Bishop of Hereford, and Reginald de
Braose, brothers of the attainted baron, obtained after a time a share of the
estates. Bramber was granted to the bishop, who, however, died within the
year. Finally, in the reign of Henry III., Reginald recovered Bramber and
Knapp, and most of the rest of the property, and having married Grecia,
daughter of William de la Bruere, died 6th Henry III., and was succeeded
by William his son.
William de Braose married Eve Mareschal, a co-heir of the great earl. He
fell into the hands of Prince Llewelyn, who accused him of too great
intimacy with his princess, and put him to death at Builth, it is said, by
hanging. He left four daughters co-heirs, whose descendants held the
greater part of the estates.
Page 316
There remained, however, an heir male, in John de Braose, by Maud de
Clare: he was the grandson by Maud de Clare of that William who was
famished with his mother at Windsor, and he recovered Bramber and
Gower. His son was William de Braose, who held Bramber and Gower, and
added considerably to the Sussex estates. He is said, in 1262, to have raised
a large sum of money from his tenants by foregoing his right of murage. He
died at Findon, 1290, 19 Edward I., and was succeeded by John de Braose
of Bramber, who married Margaret, daughter of Llewelyn, Prince of Wales.
He died at Bramber of a fall from his horse (16 Henry III., 1232), and was
succeeded by William, who died 19 Edward I. William was a powerful
baron, and active in the wars of Edward I. and II. He was, however,
extravagant, and reduced to sell Gower, which led afterwards to disputes
between the purchaser and the lawful heirs of the vendor, of whom Aliva,
his elder daughter, married John de Mowbray, from whom descended, in the
seventh generation, Margaret de Mowbray, who married Sir Robert
Howard, whence comes the Duke of Norfolk, the present owner of Bramber
Castle. The barony is in abeyance. Probably, with the failure of the elder
male line of De Braose, the castle ceased to be a residence, but in 1644 it
was strong enough to be held by Captain James Temple, for the king,
against a strong Parliamentary party, and it was probably in consequence
that the keep was blown up, and the castle reduced to its present condition.
There is an engraving by Hollar, taken 150 years ago, representing it very
much as it now is.
Another branch of the family of De Braose rose to the rank of Barons of
Parliament, and held large Sussex possessions. The last male of this cadet
branch, De Braose of Chesworth and East Grinsted, died in the reign of
Richard II.
Bramber is, like Pontefract, Lewes, and Dudley, an example of a natural
hill, scarped and defended by art, and crowned with an artificial mound;
but, unlike those castles, it has both a mound and rectangular keep, a rare
combination, found also at Guildford and Christchurch. A rectangular keep
upon a natural isolated hill, unaccompanied by a mound, though not usual,
is not unknown. Examples of it are seen at Hedingham, Corfe, and
Bridgenorth. At Bramber, as indeed is the case in many other sites of early
fortresses, the original earthworks have survived the Norman additions, and
remain pretty much as they must have existed before the Conquest.
Clare: he was the grandson by Maud de Clare of that William who was
famished with his mother at Windsor, and he recovered Bramber and
Gower. His son was William de Braose, who held Bramber and Gower, and
added considerably to the Sussex estates. He is said, in 1262, to have raised
a large sum of money from his tenants by foregoing his right of murage. He
died at Findon, 1290, 19 Edward I., and was succeeded by John de Braose
of Bramber, who married Margaret, daughter of Llewelyn, Prince of Wales.
He died at Bramber of a fall from his horse (16 Henry III., 1232), and was
succeeded by William, who died 19 Edward I. William was a powerful
baron, and active in the wars of Edward I. and II. He was, however,
extravagant, and reduced to sell Gower, which led afterwards to disputes
between the purchaser and the lawful heirs of the vendor, of whom Aliva,
his elder daughter, married John de Mowbray, from whom descended, in the
seventh generation, Margaret de Mowbray, who married Sir Robert
Howard, whence comes the Duke of Norfolk, the present owner of Bramber
Castle. The barony is in abeyance. Probably, with the failure of the elder
male line of De Braose, the castle ceased to be a residence, but in 1644 it
was strong enough to be held by Captain James Temple, for the king,
against a strong Parliamentary party, and it was probably in consequence
that the keep was blown up, and the castle reduced to its present condition.
There is an engraving by Hollar, taken 150 years ago, representing it very
much as it now is.
Another branch of the family of De Braose rose to the rank of Barons of
Parliament, and held large Sussex possessions. The last male of this cadet
branch, De Braose of Chesworth and East Grinsted, died in the reign of
Richard II.
Bramber is, like Pontefract, Lewes, and Dudley, an example of a natural
hill, scarped and defended by art, and crowned with an artificial mound;
but, unlike those castles, it has both a mound and rectangular keep, a rare
combination, found also at Guildford and Christchurch. A rectangular keep
upon a natural isolated hill, unaccompanied by a mound, though not usual,
is not unknown. Examples of it are seen at Hedingham, Corfe, and
Bridgenorth. At Bramber, as indeed is the case in many other sites of early
fortresses, the original earthworks have survived the Norman additions, and
remain pretty much as they must have existed before the Conquest.
Page 317
Page 318
BRIDGENORTH, OLDBURY, AND QUATFORD, IN
SHROPSHIRE.
THE river Severn, in its course from Shrewsbury to Worcester, passes for
several miles down a deep and rugged ravine, within or near to which lie
the populous districts of Coalbrook Dale, Iron Bridge, Coal Port, and
Broseley, early seats of the iron manufacture, and evidences of the wealth,
though scarcely in harmony with the natural beauty, of the country. The
ravine commences a little below the ivy-covered ruins of Buildwas Abbey,
and terminates twenty to twenty-five miles lower down, about Bewdley and
Stourbridge, where it opens out into a valley of a soft and smiling character.
About half-way down, between Pendlestone rock and the incoming of the
Worf, the Severn receives upon its right bank the waters from a short but
deep and broad valley, which descends obliquely from the north-west, and
between which and the main valley intervenes the point of a steep and
narrow ridge of rock, rising about 200 feet above the river, and upon the
nearly level summit of which is placed the town and what remains of the
Castle of Bridgenorth. The rock is more lofty, and the position far more
striking, than that of Pontefract Castle, the defences of which were also in a
great degree natural, and in these respects Bridgenorth may challenge
comparison with Coucy, which it also resembles in the relation of the castle
to the town. In both places the castle lay contiguous to the town, and their
connected defences formed the common enceinte, while the castle had
besides a ditch proper to itself.
SHROPSHIRE.
THE river Severn, in its course from Shrewsbury to Worcester, passes for
several miles down a deep and rugged ravine, within or near to which lie
the populous districts of Coalbrook Dale, Iron Bridge, Coal Port, and
Broseley, early seats of the iron manufacture, and evidences of the wealth,
though scarcely in harmony with the natural beauty, of the country. The
ravine commences a little below the ivy-covered ruins of Buildwas Abbey,
and terminates twenty to twenty-five miles lower down, about Bewdley and
Stourbridge, where it opens out into a valley of a soft and smiling character.
About half-way down, between Pendlestone rock and the incoming of the
Worf, the Severn receives upon its right bank the waters from a short but
deep and broad valley, which descends obliquely from the north-west, and
between which and the main valley intervenes the point of a steep and
narrow ridge of rock, rising about 200 feet above the river, and upon the
nearly level summit of which is placed the town and what remains of the
Castle of Bridgenorth. The rock is more lofty, and the position far more
striking, than that of Pontefract Castle, the defences of which were also in a
great degree natural, and in these respects Bridgenorth may challenge
comparison with Coucy, which it also resembles in the relation of the castle
to the town. In both places the castle lay contiguous to the town, and their
connected defences formed the common enceinte, while the castle had
besides a ditch proper to itself.
Page 319
BRIDGENORTH CASTLE.
At Bridgenorth the castle occupied the apex and south end of the
platform, the broader and northern part of which was covered by the town,
and the town walls abutted against those of the castle, while the castle ditch
traversed the platform from one face to the other. Of the defences of the
town only the north gate remains, and that in a very mutilated and disguised
form, but the line of the walls may be traced, partly by the inequality of the
ground and the arrangement of the streets, and partly by the existence of the
cliff upon which they in part stood. An ancient fortified bridge, standing
when Grose visited the place late in the last century, though now rebuilt,
crossed the Severn east of the town, and was approached from it by a steep
and narrow flight of rock-cut steps, and by a carriage-way cut in traverses
almost as steep. This bridge defended the passage of the river, and
connected the place with the suburb called the Lower Town upon the left
bank. It is this bridge which is supposed to have given to the place its early
name of Brug, or Breig, the distinctive “North” being an addition, probably
in the thirteenth century, when there is said to have been an earlier bridge a
little lower down. The town contains several old buildings, and among
them, near the bridge, a very fine one framed with timber, in which was
At Bridgenorth the castle occupied the apex and south end of the
platform, the broader and northern part of which was covered by the town,
and the town walls abutted against those of the castle, while the castle ditch
traversed the platform from one face to the other. Of the defences of the
town only the north gate remains, and that in a very mutilated and disguised
form, but the line of the walls may be traced, partly by the inequality of the
ground and the arrangement of the streets, and partly by the existence of the
cliff upon which they in part stood. An ancient fortified bridge, standing
when Grose visited the place late in the last century, though now rebuilt,
crossed the Severn east of the town, and was approached from it by a steep
and narrow flight of rock-cut steps, and by a carriage-way cut in traverses
almost as steep. This bridge defended the passage of the river, and
connected the place with the suburb called the Lower Town upon the left
bank. It is this bridge which is supposed to have given to the place its early
name of Brug, or Breig, the distinctive “North” being an addition, probably
in the thirteenth century, when there is said to have been an earlier bridge a
little lower down. The town contains several old buildings, and among
them, near the bridge, a very fine one framed with timber, in which was
Page 320
born Bishop Percy. There is also the fine parish church of St. Leonard’s,
which stands at the north end of the town, east of the north gate, and just
within the line of the old walls.
The castle platform is in plan somewhat of an equilateral triangle, each
side being about a furlong. Leland says its area is about one-third that of the
town. The two sides of this area were protected by a cliff so steep as to
render a ditch unnecessary, and the face of which, where it needed support,
was, and still is, revetted, the wall and edge of the cliff having been, no
doubt, crowned by a parapet. The cliff rises out of a steep talus, or slope.
The base of the area was defended by a wall within a ditch, upon which was
a great gatehouse, standing in Leland’s time and for a century later. The
ditch has been filled up and built over, and the wall removed. Just within its
line still stands what remains of the keep, and a few yards to the east of that
was the castle chapel, now the church of St. Mary Magdalen, and, until
recently, a peculiar with a special jurisdiction. The chapel was collegiate
with an endowment for certain prebendaries, disendowed at the
Reformation. The present building, constructed in 1796, is a large and
distressing example of Telford’s church architecture, in what the great
engineer was pleased to regard as the Grecian style. The two buildings
stand on the highest part of the castle area, which falls 30 feet to 40 feet
towards the southern point. A modern wall has taken the place of the old
enceinte. The view thence is very noble, nor does any town in England
possess a finer promenade than that with which corporate care has encircled
the area.
The fragment of the keep, long known as “the leaning tower of
Bridgenorth,” seems to be the only masonry remaining of the castle, for the
revetment wall of the cliff looks as though it had been replaced. The keep
was a regular rectangular tower of the usual Norman pattern, but in
dimensions very unworthy of the powerful earl who built it, or of the
celebrated fortress of which it was the citadel. It was 45 feet square, and
from 60 feet to 70 feet high to the base of the parapet. On each face were
two pilaster strips, 8 feet broad by 6 inches projection, placed close up to
but not covering the angles of the tower, which are thus converted into
nooks, or hollow angles, of 6 inches in the side, and which, instead of, as
usual, terminating above and below in a flat square, end in a sloping
surface, as though to receive a column. The pilasters rise from a common
which stands at the north end of the town, east of the north gate, and just
within the line of the old walls.
The castle platform is in plan somewhat of an equilateral triangle, each
side being about a furlong. Leland says its area is about one-third that of the
town. The two sides of this area were protected by a cliff so steep as to
render a ditch unnecessary, and the face of which, where it needed support,
was, and still is, revetted, the wall and edge of the cliff having been, no
doubt, crowned by a parapet. The cliff rises out of a steep talus, or slope.
The base of the area was defended by a wall within a ditch, upon which was
a great gatehouse, standing in Leland’s time and for a century later. The
ditch has been filled up and built over, and the wall removed. Just within its
line still stands what remains of the keep, and a few yards to the east of that
was the castle chapel, now the church of St. Mary Magdalen, and, until
recently, a peculiar with a special jurisdiction. The chapel was collegiate
with an endowment for certain prebendaries, disendowed at the
Reformation. The present building, constructed in 1796, is a large and
distressing example of Telford’s church architecture, in what the great
engineer was pleased to regard as the Grecian style. The two buildings
stand on the highest part of the castle area, which falls 30 feet to 40 feet
towards the southern point. A modern wall has taken the place of the old
enceinte. The view thence is very noble, nor does any town in England
possess a finer promenade than that with which corporate care has encircled
the area.
The fragment of the keep, long known as “the leaning tower of
Bridgenorth,” seems to be the only masonry remaining of the castle, for the
revetment wall of the cliff looks as though it had been replaced. The keep
was a regular rectangular tower of the usual Norman pattern, but in
dimensions very unworthy of the powerful earl who built it, or of the
celebrated fortress of which it was the citadel. It was 45 feet square, and
from 60 feet to 70 feet high to the base of the parapet. On each face were
two pilaster strips, 8 feet broad by 6 inches projection, placed close up to
but not covering the angles of the tower, which are thus converted into
nooks, or hollow angles, of 6 inches in the side, and which, instead of, as
usual, terminating above and below in a flat square, end in a sloping
surface, as though to receive a column. The pilasters rise from a common
Page 321
plinth, and ascend to the parapet. Whether they were continued upwards so
as to form the usual angle-turrets does not appear. Each had two sets-off on
the face and outer edge only, reducing the breadth to 7 feet 6 inches and 7
feet. The sets-off were continued round the building. In the west face was
also another pilaster of the same breadth and 15 inches projection. This died
into the wall some feet below the summit, and seems to have been
connected with the entrance door, which probably opened in its face, for it
is broken away below and a part of the rough backing of an arch is seen.
The walls at the base are 9 feet thick, and about 7 feet at the summit. The
building is of three stages, a basement, at the ground level, 12 feet high; a
first floor, 25 feet; and a second floor rather more, perhaps 30 feet. The
floors were of timber. The first floor seems to have rested on a ledge, the
upper and the flat roof upon joists, those of the lower lying east and west;
those of the upper, north and south. The joist holes in the north wall have
been closed by early work, and above is a slight set-off or shelf in the wall,
as though the level of the floor had been altered. In the west wall, also, new
joist holes, smaller, have been cut above the old ones.
The original roof was very steep, having two slopes and a central gutter,
as at Porchester, and the reverse of the arrangement at Ludlow, where the
ridge was central, and the two gutters lateral. The weather table remains
perfect in the north wall, with a hole 2 feet high by 1 foot broad, to carry the
beam which supported the gutter and the feet of the rafters. The table is
seen continued horizontally upon the west wall, where it was laid as a
flashing to cover the upper edge of the tiling. The walls were brought up to
a level line all round, so as to conceal the roof. This arrangement, as at
Ludlow, Richmond, Porchester, and the gatehouse of Sherborne, shows that
there was no original intention of using the roof as a platform for
mangonels and such like heavy machines. The flat roof, of lead, was
apparently of later introduction. No traces remain of any mural staircase in
the north or west wall, nor of any mural passages.
The basement was, probably, a dark store or cellar, reached only by a trap
in the floor above. The entrance seems to have been on the first floor in the
west wall, in which also are traces of a loop or small window. The north
wall remains perfect. It was most exposed, and is without openings of any
kind. In what remains of the south wall is one jamb of an original fireplace,
of which is seen the sloping back, and part of a lateral nook and Norman
as to form the usual angle-turrets does not appear. Each had two sets-off on
the face and outer edge only, reducing the breadth to 7 feet 6 inches and 7
feet. The sets-off were continued round the building. In the west face was
also another pilaster of the same breadth and 15 inches projection. This died
into the wall some feet below the summit, and seems to have been
connected with the entrance door, which probably opened in its face, for it
is broken away below and a part of the rough backing of an arch is seen.
The walls at the base are 9 feet thick, and about 7 feet at the summit. The
building is of three stages, a basement, at the ground level, 12 feet high; a
first floor, 25 feet; and a second floor rather more, perhaps 30 feet. The
floors were of timber. The first floor seems to have rested on a ledge, the
upper and the flat roof upon joists, those of the lower lying east and west;
those of the upper, north and south. The joist holes in the north wall have
been closed by early work, and above is a slight set-off or shelf in the wall,
as though the level of the floor had been altered. In the west wall, also, new
joist holes, smaller, have been cut above the old ones.
The original roof was very steep, having two slopes and a central gutter,
as at Porchester, and the reverse of the arrangement at Ludlow, where the
ridge was central, and the two gutters lateral. The weather table remains
perfect in the north wall, with a hole 2 feet high by 1 foot broad, to carry the
beam which supported the gutter and the feet of the rafters. The table is
seen continued horizontally upon the west wall, where it was laid as a
flashing to cover the upper edge of the tiling. The walls were brought up to
a level line all round, so as to conceal the roof. This arrangement, as at
Ludlow, Richmond, Porchester, and the gatehouse of Sherborne, shows that
there was no original intention of using the roof as a platform for
mangonels and such like heavy machines. The flat roof, of lead, was
apparently of later introduction. No traces remain of any mural staircase in
the north or west wall, nor of any mural passages.
The basement was, probably, a dark store or cellar, reached only by a trap
in the floor above. The entrance seems to have been on the first floor in the
west wall, in which also are traces of a loop or small window. The north
wall remains perfect. It was most exposed, and is without openings of any
kind. In what remains of the south wall is one jamb of an original fireplace,
of which is seen the sloping back, and part of a lateral nook and Norman
Page 322
abacus above it. The flanking shaft is gone. In the part of the east wall still
remaining is the northern half of a small full-centred window, deeply
splayed inwardly. The east and south walls above the first floor are gone. In
the west wall, upper floor, is seen the north jamb of a small full-centred
window set in a bold splay of hourglass section. North of it, in the same
wall, is a small recess, probably for a lamp, and which seems to have been
round headed. There, probably, was a fireplace in the south wall.
Projecting from the outside of the south wall, bonded into, and of the
same age with it, is a fragment of curtain 7 feet 6 inches thick, in which, as
at Kenilworth, is seen the jamb of a doorway, defended outside by a
portcullis, the groove of which, square and 5 inches deep by 3 inches broad,
shows that the grate was of iron. The groove, as at Kenilworth, stops about
3 feet from the ground, the door having been reached by steps. The groove
is not open at bottom, but runs up behind a covering wall, as usual, and was
evidently worked from the rampart, as is still seen at the Fishergate postern,
at York. The door jamb is about 6 feet from the keep. This was evidently the
entrance into the innermost ward, in which, or rather upon the wall of
which, stood the keep.
A few feet to the west of the keep is a mass of masonry, clearly a part of
the forebuilding which covered the entrance. Its face towards the keep is 13
feet long, and towards the south 16 feet. It varies from 3 feet to 6 feet thick,
and is at present about 10 feet high. At present it is distant from the keep 3
feet 6 inches, but the two faces were evidently once in contact, and were
displaced by an explosion. The mine by which the keep was destroyed
seems to have been placed here.
The material of the keep was rubble-stone faced with excellent fine-
jointed ashlar. The exterior face of the forebuilding seems to have had a
similar casing.
It is not easy to obtain accurate measurements of the keep, so much has
been removed, so much injured, and what remains is so obscured with ivy.
Moreover, the interior is fitted up for two dog-kennels, kept in a very filthy
condition, and with putrid carrion suspended from the walls. The ruins also
stand in three distinct enclosures, all locked up. A mine has been sprung
between the keep and the forebuilding, and the explosion has removed all
the upper part of the latter, and so tilted the keep that it leans at an angle of
remaining is the northern half of a small full-centred window, deeply
splayed inwardly. The east and south walls above the first floor are gone. In
the west wall, upper floor, is seen the north jamb of a small full-centred
window set in a bold splay of hourglass section. North of it, in the same
wall, is a small recess, probably for a lamp, and which seems to have been
round headed. There, probably, was a fireplace in the south wall.
Projecting from the outside of the south wall, bonded into, and of the
same age with it, is a fragment of curtain 7 feet 6 inches thick, in which, as
at Kenilworth, is seen the jamb of a doorway, defended outside by a
portcullis, the groove of which, square and 5 inches deep by 3 inches broad,
shows that the grate was of iron. The groove, as at Kenilworth, stops about
3 feet from the ground, the door having been reached by steps. The groove
is not open at bottom, but runs up behind a covering wall, as usual, and was
evidently worked from the rampart, as is still seen at the Fishergate postern,
at York. The door jamb is about 6 feet from the keep. This was evidently the
entrance into the innermost ward, in which, or rather upon the wall of
which, stood the keep.
A few feet to the west of the keep is a mass of masonry, clearly a part of
the forebuilding which covered the entrance. Its face towards the keep is 13
feet long, and towards the south 16 feet. It varies from 3 feet to 6 feet thick,
and is at present about 10 feet high. At present it is distant from the keep 3
feet 6 inches, but the two faces were evidently once in contact, and were
displaced by an explosion. The mine by which the keep was destroyed
seems to have been placed here.
The material of the keep was rubble-stone faced with excellent fine-
jointed ashlar. The exterior face of the forebuilding seems to have had a
similar casing.
It is not easy to obtain accurate measurements of the keep, so much has
been removed, so much injured, and what remains is so obscured with ivy.
Moreover, the interior is fitted up for two dog-kennels, kept in a very filthy
condition, and with putrid carrion suspended from the walls. The ruins also
stand in three distinct enclosures, all locked up. A mine has been sprung
between the keep and the forebuilding, and the explosion has removed all
the upper part of the latter, and so tilted the keep that it leans at an angle of
Page 323
fifteen degrees eastward from the vertical, and the upper part of the east and
south walls are gone. Moreover, the keep seems to have been lifted bodily
about three feet towards the east, and the north wall has a large open crack.
About fifteen yards from the south-east angle stands a huge ivy-covered
mass of masonry, probably the detached angle of the tower. What remains
of the keep is held together by the excellence of the cement. The ruin is in a
state of great filth and neglect, and it is much to be regretted that the whole
area is not converted into a public garden. Judicious excavation would
probably throw much light upon the details of the keep, and show the line
of its contiguous curtain wall.
The masonry and details of the keep answer very well to the date of 1101
to 1102, to which history assigns it. It is certainly not earlier. The curtain of
the inner ward was clearly of the same date, and enclosed a court in the
north-west quarter of the general area, of which the keep probably formed
the north-east angle, and which was entered on the east side close south of
the keep. All else is gone; the “mighty North gate” of which Leland speaks
is no more. The very ruins have perished, and the last trace of them, a good
Norman arch, discovered while pulling down some houses in 1821, has
since been destroyed by local Vandals.
The early history of Bridgenorth is exceedingly obscure. It is stated in the
Saxon Chronicle that when, in 896, Alfred stranded the Danish ships in the
Essex Lea, the Danes left them, traversed England, passed the winter at
Quatbridge on the Severn, and there threw up a work. Three of the four
original texts are thus rendered. The fourth makes them rest at “Brygce,” or
Bridge, on the Severn. Florence of Worcester supports Quatbridge, and
mentions the work or fortress. “Brygce,” in the Chronicle, is thought to be
an interpolation, both where appended to Quat, and where it stands alone, it
being probable that the Severn was not bridged at that time. There are at
present two parishes into the names of which Quat enters on the left bank of
the river, below Bridgenorth, Quat and Quatford, and upon the river is
Danesford. Quat is regarded by Eyton as a corruption of the British “Coed,”
a wood, the whole district having been a forest.
In the same Chronicle it is recorded that Æthelflæda, the great lady of the
Mercians, a mighty burgh-builder in her day, and called by Henry of
Huntingdon “Terror virgo virorum,” built, in 912, a burgh at Bricge, to
which Florence adds, “on the western bank of Severn.” Bricge could
south walls are gone. Moreover, the keep seems to have been lifted bodily
about three feet towards the east, and the north wall has a large open crack.
About fifteen yards from the south-east angle stands a huge ivy-covered
mass of masonry, probably the detached angle of the tower. What remains
of the keep is held together by the excellence of the cement. The ruin is in a
state of great filth and neglect, and it is much to be regretted that the whole
area is not converted into a public garden. Judicious excavation would
probably throw much light upon the details of the keep, and show the line
of its contiguous curtain wall.
The masonry and details of the keep answer very well to the date of 1101
to 1102, to which history assigns it. It is certainly not earlier. The curtain of
the inner ward was clearly of the same date, and enclosed a court in the
north-west quarter of the general area, of which the keep probably formed
the north-east angle, and which was entered on the east side close south of
the keep. All else is gone; the “mighty North gate” of which Leland speaks
is no more. The very ruins have perished, and the last trace of them, a good
Norman arch, discovered while pulling down some houses in 1821, has
since been destroyed by local Vandals.
The early history of Bridgenorth is exceedingly obscure. It is stated in the
Saxon Chronicle that when, in 896, Alfred stranded the Danish ships in the
Essex Lea, the Danes left them, traversed England, passed the winter at
Quatbridge on the Severn, and there threw up a work. Three of the four
original texts are thus rendered. The fourth makes them rest at “Brygce,” or
Bridge, on the Severn. Florence of Worcester supports Quatbridge, and
mentions the work or fortress. “Brygce,” in the Chronicle, is thought to be
an interpolation, both where appended to Quat, and where it stands alone, it
being probable that the Severn was not bridged at that time. There are at
present two parishes into the names of which Quat enters on the left bank of
the river, below Bridgenorth, Quat and Quatford, and upon the river is
Danesford. Quat is regarded by Eyton as a corruption of the British “Coed,”
a wood, the whole district having been a forest.
In the same Chronicle it is recorded that Æthelflæda, the great lady of the
Mercians, a mighty burgh-builder in her day, and called by Henry of
Huntingdon “Terror virgo virorum,” built, in 912, a burgh at Bricge, to
which Florence adds, “on the western bank of Severn.” Bricge could
Page 324
scarcely be Bridgenorth, which is not even mentioned in Domesday. We
ought, however, to find near the river, about Bridgenorth, earthworks
thrown up by the Danes and by Æthelflæda, and it will be seen that there
remain at the least three distinct works, any one or all of which may be of
the ninth or tenth centuries. These are Oldbury, Quatford Castle, and
Quatford.
Bridgenorth is not mentioned in Domesday. The Norman castle did not
then exist, and there is no reason, strong and tempting as is the site, for
supposing that it was occupied either by the Danes or by Æthelflæda. Mr.
Eyton is of opinion that the site of the later town and castle is included
within a certain two hides of land which in the survey constituted the
demesne lands of the Norman Earl of Shrewsbury, within his great manor of
Morville. Quatford, not Quatbridge, is mentioned in that record in
conjunction with Ardintone. “Ibi,” that is in Ardintone, “Molendinum de iij
oris et nova domus et burgum Quatford dictum nil reddens,” “there is a mill
worth three ounces (5s. per annum), and a new house, and the borough
called Quatford, paying nothing.” In 1085, therefore, it may be accepted
that the earl had a new house at Quatford, where, indeed, it is known that at
the request of his second wife Adelais, and in acknowledgment of her
escape from shipwreck, he founded, about 1086, a collegiate church. The
foundation charter of this alludes to the mount nigh to the bridge; the latter,
probably an appendage to the new house, the former possibly part of the
older earthwork of what is now known as Quatford Castle.
Earl Roger was succeeded in his English Honour and estates by his
second son Earl Hugh, who was slain in Wales in 1098, and left the
succession open to his elder brother, Robert de Belesme, who had already
inherited his father’s estates in Normandy, and was Count of Ponthieu in
right of his wife. Robert, who thus became Earl of Shrewsbury, though a
cruel tyrant, was a man of great ability and energy, not only a great soldier,
and “princeps militiæ,” or “Commander of the Forces” to Rufus, but a great
military engineer. He selected the site and planned the works of the
celebrated castle of Gisors on the Franco-Norman frontier. His brother’s
death found him beleaguered in his castle of Balaon by Fulk, Count of
Anjou, and the siege was raised by Rufus, who granted him, or confirmed
him in, his brother’s Honour. When he came to England is uncertain,
probably not before the end of 1099.
ought, however, to find near the river, about Bridgenorth, earthworks
thrown up by the Danes and by Æthelflæda, and it will be seen that there
remain at the least three distinct works, any one or all of which may be of
the ninth or tenth centuries. These are Oldbury, Quatford Castle, and
Quatford.
Bridgenorth is not mentioned in Domesday. The Norman castle did not
then exist, and there is no reason, strong and tempting as is the site, for
supposing that it was occupied either by the Danes or by Æthelflæda. Mr.
Eyton is of opinion that the site of the later town and castle is included
within a certain two hides of land which in the survey constituted the
demesne lands of the Norman Earl of Shrewsbury, within his great manor of
Morville. Quatford, not Quatbridge, is mentioned in that record in
conjunction with Ardintone. “Ibi,” that is in Ardintone, “Molendinum de iij
oris et nova domus et burgum Quatford dictum nil reddens,” “there is a mill
worth three ounces (5s. per annum), and a new house, and the borough
called Quatford, paying nothing.” In 1085, therefore, it may be accepted
that the earl had a new house at Quatford, where, indeed, it is known that at
the request of his second wife Adelais, and in acknowledgment of her
escape from shipwreck, he founded, about 1086, a collegiate church. The
foundation charter of this alludes to the mount nigh to the bridge; the latter,
probably an appendage to the new house, the former possibly part of the
older earthwork of what is now known as Quatford Castle.
Earl Roger was succeeded in his English Honour and estates by his
second son Earl Hugh, who was slain in Wales in 1098, and left the
succession open to his elder brother, Robert de Belesme, who had already
inherited his father’s estates in Normandy, and was Count of Ponthieu in
right of his wife. Robert, who thus became Earl of Shrewsbury, though a
cruel tyrant, was a man of great ability and energy, not only a great soldier,
and “princeps militiæ,” or “Commander of the Forces” to Rufus, but a great
military engineer. He selected the site and planned the works of the
celebrated castle of Gisors on the Franco-Norman frontier. His brother’s
death found him beleaguered in his castle of Balaon by Fulk, Count of
Anjou, and the siege was raised by Rufus, who granted him, or confirmed
him in, his brother’s Honour. When he came to England is uncertain,
probably not before the end of 1099.
Page 325
On the death, in 1100, of Rufus, Earl Robert took part with Duke Robert,
whose claims, however, were not at first brought forward. It was probably
while preparing for their open assertion that he decided to fortify the strong
position which rose unoccupied scarce a mile from his father’s church and
residence. His decision was prompt, and followed at once by his acts. He
transferred the “Burgus” of Quatford to a new town on the hill, and with it
his father’s house and bridge, which he also rebuilt. The result was the
borough town, castle, and bridge of Bridgenorth, the latter structure giving
name to the whole as Bridge or Bruge, the distinctive “north” not being
added till the reign of Edward II. or III.
With Bridgenorth, Earl Robert also founded the castle of “Caroclove” in
Wales, and such was his need that the works were carried on day and night.
He also fortified Arundel, Shrewsbury, and Tickhill. His exertions in 1100
and 1101, when he seems to have built the castle, must have been excessive.
King Henry, however, was not less active. He despatched Robert, Bishop of
Lincoln, to lay siege to Tickhill, while he himself, having commenced with
Arundel, proceeded to Bridgenorth. He took it, after a three weeks’ siege, in
September, 1102, and this brought to a close Earl Robert’s short tenure of
power in England. The earl fled to Normandy, his earldom of Shrewsbury
was forfeited, and Bridgenorth was after a time granted to Hugh de
Mortimer of Wigmore, the son of one of Henry’s most trusted supporters. In
1126, Waleran, Earl of Mellent, was here imprisoned, as was Meredith ab
Llywarch in 1128. In 1130 wine was sent hither for the king’s use, so that
Mortimer was probably rather constable for the Crown than the owner in
fee.
Mortimer, in the new reign, took the part of Stephen, at whose death he
held both Wigmore and Bridgenorth. As he was in rebellion against Henry
II., the king took the field against him, and in April, 1155, the castle a
second time stood a royal siege. Cleobury, one of Mortimer’s castles,
surrendered in July, and Wigmore and Bridgenorth followed. Henry was for
some time before the place, and his charter to Stoneley Abbey is dated
“apud Brugium in obsidione.” It was at this siege that Hubert de St. Clair is
said to have stepped forward to receive the arrow aimed at his sovereign, a
romantic but unfounded tale. Henry retained the castle for the Crown, and
used it largely as a prison for his Welsh hostages. In 1173–4, when Prince
Henry rose against his father, Bridgenorth was victualled at a cost of £22.
whose claims, however, were not at first brought forward. It was probably
while preparing for their open assertion that he decided to fortify the strong
position which rose unoccupied scarce a mile from his father’s church and
residence. His decision was prompt, and followed at once by his acts. He
transferred the “Burgus” of Quatford to a new town on the hill, and with it
his father’s house and bridge, which he also rebuilt. The result was the
borough town, castle, and bridge of Bridgenorth, the latter structure giving
name to the whole as Bridge or Bruge, the distinctive “north” not being
added till the reign of Edward II. or III.
With Bridgenorth, Earl Robert also founded the castle of “Caroclove” in
Wales, and such was his need that the works were carried on day and night.
He also fortified Arundel, Shrewsbury, and Tickhill. His exertions in 1100
and 1101, when he seems to have built the castle, must have been excessive.
King Henry, however, was not less active. He despatched Robert, Bishop of
Lincoln, to lay siege to Tickhill, while he himself, having commenced with
Arundel, proceeded to Bridgenorth. He took it, after a three weeks’ siege, in
September, 1102, and this brought to a close Earl Robert’s short tenure of
power in England. The earl fled to Normandy, his earldom of Shrewsbury
was forfeited, and Bridgenorth was after a time granted to Hugh de
Mortimer of Wigmore, the son of one of Henry’s most trusted supporters. In
1126, Waleran, Earl of Mellent, was here imprisoned, as was Meredith ab
Llywarch in 1128. In 1130 wine was sent hither for the king’s use, so that
Mortimer was probably rather constable for the Crown than the owner in
fee.
Mortimer, in the new reign, took the part of Stephen, at whose death he
held both Wigmore and Bridgenorth. As he was in rebellion against Henry
II., the king took the field against him, and in April, 1155, the castle a
second time stood a royal siege. Cleobury, one of Mortimer’s castles,
surrendered in July, and Wigmore and Bridgenorth followed. Henry was for
some time before the place, and his charter to Stoneley Abbey is dated
“apud Brugium in obsidione.” It was at this siege that Hubert de St. Clair is
said to have stepped forward to receive the arrow aimed at his sovereign, a
romantic but unfounded tale. Henry retained the castle for the Crown, and
used it largely as a prison for his Welsh hostages. In 1173–4, when Prince
Henry rose against his father, Bridgenorth was victualled at a cost of £22.
Page 326
5s. 2d. In 1175–6 the king dated a Wenlock Abbey charter from hence. The
frequent charges for repairs between 1166 and 1189 show the importance
attached to this castle by Henry II. In 1176 the Pipe Roll gives a charge of
1d. per day for the castle porter.
King John was six times at Bridgenorth, passing there about fourteen
days. He confirmed a charter of incorporation to the town. Both he and his
predecessor, Richard, kept up the castle, as is attested by frequent charges
for repairs during sixteen years. In 1198 there was paid 6s. 3d. for the hire
of the barge in which the wife of Griffith ab Rhys was conveyed from
Bridgenorth to Gloucester. In 1203 John presented to a prebend in the castle
chapel. In 1209 a stag from the adjacent forest entered the castle through a
postern and was captured, and no doubt converted into venison by the
castellans. For this they were prosecuted by the verdurers, and the
proceedings imply that the castle was then in charge of five persons only, of
whom one was the constable. No doubt in time of peace the royal castles
were left almost to themselves, and often not even kept in repair. When a
war arose they were repaired, garrisoned, and victualled in all haste. So far
as repairs went, Bridgenorth, however, seems to have fared well. We read of
repairs on the king’s house, on the basement of the castle, on the “Barbe-
kana et Pons-tornalis” or barbican and drawbridge; on the turret of the outer
wall, the chimney of the great chamber, the castle walls, the tower, the well,
the glass windows in the hall, the queen’s oriel, and the chapel.
These charges are continued through the reign of Henry III., and well into
that of Edward I., from 1218 to 1281. In 1232 the sheriff was to cause to be
repaired the castle stable, and the kitchen within the barbican of the tower,
and in 1244–5 was a charge for covering the tower at Brug with lead. This
was probably the keep. In 1267, Henry III. and his queen were at
Bridgenorth, and it would seem that the Mortimers were still connected
with the castle, for, in 1273, on the death of Hugh de Mortimer, Edward I.
continued his successor Ralph in the offices of sheriff of the county and
constable of the castle.
In 1281 an inquisition was held upon the state of the building, which had
latterly been neglected. The timbers of the great tower were rotten, the
leaden covering having been carried away; also the castle bridge was
broken down, so that carriages could not cross it.
frequent charges for repairs between 1166 and 1189 show the importance
attached to this castle by Henry II. In 1176 the Pipe Roll gives a charge of
1d. per day for the castle porter.
King John was six times at Bridgenorth, passing there about fourteen
days. He confirmed a charter of incorporation to the town. Both he and his
predecessor, Richard, kept up the castle, as is attested by frequent charges
for repairs during sixteen years. In 1198 there was paid 6s. 3d. for the hire
of the barge in which the wife of Griffith ab Rhys was conveyed from
Bridgenorth to Gloucester. In 1203 John presented to a prebend in the castle
chapel. In 1209 a stag from the adjacent forest entered the castle through a
postern and was captured, and no doubt converted into venison by the
castellans. For this they were prosecuted by the verdurers, and the
proceedings imply that the castle was then in charge of five persons only, of
whom one was the constable. No doubt in time of peace the royal castles
were left almost to themselves, and often not even kept in repair. When a
war arose they were repaired, garrisoned, and victualled in all haste. So far
as repairs went, Bridgenorth, however, seems to have fared well. We read of
repairs on the king’s house, on the basement of the castle, on the “Barbe-
kana et Pons-tornalis” or barbican and drawbridge; on the turret of the outer
wall, the chimney of the great chamber, the castle walls, the tower, the well,
the glass windows in the hall, the queen’s oriel, and the chapel.
These charges are continued through the reign of Henry III., and well into
that of Edward I., from 1218 to 1281. In 1232 the sheriff was to cause to be
repaired the castle stable, and the kitchen within the barbican of the tower,
and in 1244–5 was a charge for covering the tower at Brug with lead. This
was probably the keep. In 1267, Henry III. and his queen were at
Bridgenorth, and it would seem that the Mortimers were still connected
with the castle, for, in 1273, on the death of Hugh de Mortimer, Edward I.
continued his successor Ralph in the offices of sheriff of the county and
constable of the castle.
In 1281 an inquisition was held upon the state of the building, which had
latterly been neglected. The timbers of the great tower were rotten, the
leaden covering having been carried away; also the castle bridge was
broken down, so that carriages could not cross it.
Page 327
In common with most other castles held by the Crown and therefore not
inhabited, Bridgenorth seems to have been allowed to fall into decay from
the reign of Edward I., so that probably little remained beyond the walls. At
any rate, it played no part in English history until the great rebellion, when
the town declared for the king, for whom the castle was garrisoned. The
tower was attacked by the Parliamentary forces on the north side, and was
entered by a breach near St. Leonard’s Church. Upon this the town was
burned up to the castle, which still held out. The Parliamentary batteries are
said to have been posted upon the Oldbury earthwork, which is probable
enough, though there are no traces of parapets or breastworks of that date,
which, however, from the distance from the castle and the deep valley
between, were probably not needed. The garrison held out three weeks, and
capitulated on honourable terms. The castle was blown up, and the
materials probably sold.
Any account of Bridgenorth Castle would be very imperfect that did not
take notice of the very remarkable earthworks seen in its neighbourhood,
and which are evidently connected with the events referred to as of the
ninth and tenth centuries. These are three in number—Oldbury, Quatford
Castle, and Quatford; and first of Oldbury.
On the left bank of the Severn, about a quarter of a mile below and south-
west of the castle, and on the opposite side of the deep dry valley that forms
its western defence, the high ground of Oldbury is broken by three deep
combes which descend to the river, and between which are two high ridges
or knolls, steep towards the Severn and the combe on either side, and on the
west connected by a neck with the higher land. The larger of these, that
nearest the castle, is known by the inelegant but most descriptive name of
“Pan Pudding Hill.” It does, in fact, much resemble in figure a beef-steak
pudding just turned over out of the pan in which it was boiled. Naturally
oblong, it has been scarped and rounded. The circular flat top is 150 feet
diameter. In the centre is a slight nipple-like mound 3 feet high, and a raised
bank now about 4 feet high crests its circumference. Towards the river the
slope is steep for 50 feet or 60 feet, towards the land it is protected by a
cross trench about 50 feet broad and 10 feet to 12 feet deep. Half-way down
the slope on the eastern side is a narrow ledge or path which may have been
protected by a stockade. Towards the south this ledge expands into a stage
or shelf from 90 feet to 100 feet broad, and which is excavated so as to
inhabited, Bridgenorth seems to have been allowed to fall into decay from
the reign of Edward I., so that probably little remained beyond the walls. At
any rate, it played no part in English history until the great rebellion, when
the town declared for the king, for whom the castle was garrisoned. The
tower was attacked by the Parliamentary forces on the north side, and was
entered by a breach near St. Leonard’s Church. Upon this the town was
burned up to the castle, which still held out. The Parliamentary batteries are
said to have been posted upon the Oldbury earthwork, which is probable
enough, though there are no traces of parapets or breastworks of that date,
which, however, from the distance from the castle and the deep valley
between, were probably not needed. The garrison held out three weeks, and
capitulated on honourable terms. The castle was blown up, and the
materials probably sold.
Any account of Bridgenorth Castle would be very imperfect that did not
take notice of the very remarkable earthworks seen in its neighbourhood,
and which are evidently connected with the events referred to as of the
ninth and tenth centuries. These are three in number—Oldbury, Quatford
Castle, and Quatford; and first of Oldbury.
On the left bank of the Severn, about a quarter of a mile below and south-
west of the castle, and on the opposite side of the deep dry valley that forms
its western defence, the high ground of Oldbury is broken by three deep
combes which descend to the river, and between which are two high ridges
or knolls, steep towards the Severn and the combe on either side, and on the
west connected by a neck with the higher land. The larger of these, that
nearest the castle, is known by the inelegant but most descriptive name of
“Pan Pudding Hill.” It does, in fact, much resemble in figure a beef-steak
pudding just turned over out of the pan in which it was boiled. Naturally
oblong, it has been scarped and rounded. The circular flat top is 150 feet
diameter. In the centre is a slight nipple-like mound 3 feet high, and a raised
bank now about 4 feet high crests its circumference. Towards the river the
slope is steep for 50 feet or 60 feet, towards the land it is protected by a
cross trench about 50 feet broad and 10 feet to 12 feet deep. Half-way down
the slope on the eastern side is a narrow ledge or path which may have been
protected by a stockade. Towards the south this ledge expands into a stage
or shelf from 90 feet to 100 feet broad, and which is excavated so as to
Page 328
carry a ditch. The arrangements are very simple, and the mound is mainly
natural, though scarped and fashioned by art. It was probably here that the
Parliamentary guns were posted in the seventeenth century.
Close south of this hill is a second work, lower, smaller, and less clearly
defined. Its summit is also circular, and about 100 feet diameter. These two
works are of one general type, and probably of one date, and if not the work
of Æthelflæda are no doubt of her period. They are either English or
Danish, not British. That the main work is older than the Norman fortress is
evident from a document of 1299, in which it is called “the old castle.”
Moreover, it is the burgh which gives name to Oldbury, the parish in which
it is situated.
Quatford Castle is on the left bank of the Severn, one and a quarter miles
below Bridgenorth, and a furlong from the river, the intervening ground
being a strip of meadow, while Danesford is still the name of an adjacent
ford and village. A short steep combe descends from the high ground to the
north-east, and, branching below, includes a knoll of rock perhaps 150 feet
above the valley and 200 feet above the river. The soft red rock has been
pared and scarped, and a part of the material employed to give an artificial
top to the hill. This is somewhat of an oval, and seems to have had a sort of
mound at its east end, now occupied by a modern castellated house. The
slopes are steep, especially towards the west, and they are broken by narrow
terraces, now walks, but which may have been ditches. The approach is by a
sort of causeway on the north-east or least steep side. The summit and sides
of the work are converted into a house and gardens, but the general
arrangement of the original hill can readily be detected. It must have been
very strong, and resembles generally Devizes and similar works of English
origin. Probably this is the site of the “nova domus” of Earl Roger, as it was
the seat of his English predecessor. It is a very curious work, and deserves
to be surveyed on a large scale by the officers of ordnance. It may be
mentioned that in the courtyard is a small passage cut in the rock, at an
angle of forty-five degrees, and which descends by ninety-four steps to a
well, whence the house is supplied. The passage is evidently an addition,
the original well shaft descending, as now, vertically from the surface.
A little north-west of the castle, towards Bridgenorth, the tail of a piece
of detached highish ground has been cut off by a trench, near a place called,
natural, though scarped and fashioned by art. It was probably here that the
Parliamentary guns were posted in the seventeenth century.
Close south of this hill is a second work, lower, smaller, and less clearly
defined. Its summit is also circular, and about 100 feet diameter. These two
works are of one general type, and probably of one date, and if not the work
of Æthelflæda are no doubt of her period. They are either English or
Danish, not British. That the main work is older than the Norman fortress is
evident from a document of 1299, in which it is called “the old castle.”
Moreover, it is the burgh which gives name to Oldbury, the parish in which
it is situated.
Quatford Castle is on the left bank of the Severn, one and a quarter miles
below Bridgenorth, and a furlong from the river, the intervening ground
being a strip of meadow, while Danesford is still the name of an adjacent
ford and village. A short steep combe descends from the high ground to the
north-east, and, branching below, includes a knoll of rock perhaps 150 feet
above the valley and 200 feet above the river. The soft red rock has been
pared and scarped, and a part of the material employed to give an artificial
top to the hill. This is somewhat of an oval, and seems to have had a sort of
mound at its east end, now occupied by a modern castellated house. The
slopes are steep, especially towards the west, and they are broken by narrow
terraces, now walks, but which may have been ditches. The approach is by a
sort of causeway on the north-east or least steep side. The summit and sides
of the work are converted into a house and gardens, but the general
arrangement of the original hill can readily be detected. It must have been
very strong, and resembles generally Devizes and similar works of English
origin. Probably this is the site of the “nova domus” of Earl Roger, as it was
the seat of his English predecessor. It is a very curious work, and deserves
to be surveyed on a large scale by the officers of ordnance. It may be
mentioned that in the courtyard is a small passage cut in the rock, at an
angle of forty-five degrees, and which descends by ninety-four steps to a
well, whence the house is supplied. The passage is evidently an addition,
the original well shaft descending, as now, vertically from the surface.
A little north-west of the castle, towards Bridgenorth, the tail of a piece
of detached highish ground has been cut off by a trench, near a place called,
Page 329
in the inch ordnance, “Dog in the Wall.” It seems to have been a light
temporary work for the accommodation of a small body of men.
On the same road, two miles south of the town, is Quatford, close to the
parish church of that name, where the road crosses a steep ridge in deep, but
probably modern, rock cutting. The ridge abuts upon the Severn, in a bold
rocky promontory about 70 feet high. Upon it is thrown up a mound about
30 feet high, and mainly artificial. It is circular, and about 60 feet diameter
on the top, which has been much cut about, probably for modern purposes.
The sides are steep, about three quarters to one in slope. This mound is
divided from the root of the promontory by a trench cut in the rock about 12
feet deep and 12 feet broad, which extends from cliff to cliff, and includes
about three-fourths of the mound. Outside this ditch and to the east of it is
an area of irregular figure, governed by the outline of the ground. Its north
and south sides are defended by a ditch, which to the south is deep and
wide. This probably included the east side, but is now superseded by the
hollow road. The area is not very large, and would perhaps accommodate
about two hundred men.
West of and beyond the road is the church, a building with some Norman
remains. It stands rather higher than the camp, and its churchyard would,
with a little care, have formed a part of and doubled the area of the camp.
Whether it ever did so it is difficult to say, probably not. The ford, which
gives part of its name to the village, is still in use when the river is low. It
crosses the Severn below the camp.
This camp is omitted in the ordnance map, and of the earthwork of Burf
Castle, placed a mile and a half to the west on that record, but one side
remains.
It may be observed that the character of the surface of the country
hereabouts is very favourable for the construction of these earthworks with
mounds. There are scores of natural rounded hillocks of red sandstone that
have an artificial aspect, and that, with a little scarping, would be strong.
There is one, especially, close east of the road between Quatford and
Dudmaston Park, that looks very like an English earthwork, and wants
nothing but a ditch to make it perfect. Besides the earthworks above
described are others in the district which appear to be of the same type.
Such are Castle Hill, nine miles south-east from Bridgenorth, and the
temporary work for the accommodation of a small body of men.
On the same road, two miles south of the town, is Quatford, close to the
parish church of that name, where the road crosses a steep ridge in deep, but
probably modern, rock cutting. The ridge abuts upon the Severn, in a bold
rocky promontory about 70 feet high. Upon it is thrown up a mound about
30 feet high, and mainly artificial. It is circular, and about 60 feet diameter
on the top, which has been much cut about, probably for modern purposes.
The sides are steep, about three quarters to one in slope. This mound is
divided from the root of the promontory by a trench cut in the rock about 12
feet deep and 12 feet broad, which extends from cliff to cliff, and includes
about three-fourths of the mound. Outside this ditch and to the east of it is
an area of irregular figure, governed by the outline of the ground. Its north
and south sides are defended by a ditch, which to the south is deep and
wide. This probably included the east side, but is now superseded by the
hollow road. The area is not very large, and would perhaps accommodate
about two hundred men.
West of and beyond the road is the church, a building with some Norman
remains. It stands rather higher than the camp, and its churchyard would,
with a little care, have formed a part of and doubled the area of the camp.
Whether it ever did so it is difficult to say, probably not. The ford, which
gives part of its name to the village, is still in use when the river is low. It
crosses the Severn below the camp.
This camp is omitted in the ordnance map, and of the earthwork of Burf
Castle, placed a mile and a half to the west on that record, but one side
remains.
It may be observed that the character of the surface of the country
hereabouts is very favourable for the construction of these earthworks with
mounds. There are scores of natural rounded hillocks of red sandstone that
have an artificial aspect, and that, with a little scarping, would be strong.
There is one, especially, close east of the road between Quatford and
Dudmaston Park, that looks very like an English earthwork, and wants
nothing but a ditch to make it perfect. Besides the earthworks above
described are others in the district which appear to be of the same type.
Such are Castle Hill, nine miles south-east from Bridgenorth, and the
Page 330
isolated knoll called “the Devil’s Spittle Dish,” two miles south-east of
Bewdley.
Bewdley.
Page 331
BRONLLYS TOWER, BRECKNOCKSHIRE.
BRONLLYS TOWER, on the left bank of the Llyfni, a tributary of the Wye,
is situate in the parish of the same name, close north of the town of
Talgarth, on the regular and ancient way between Hereford and Brecknock.
The tower occupies the summit of a mound or knoll of earth, in great part
artificial, which crowns the steep bank of the adjacent river; rising, perhaps,
60 feet above the stream, and 30 feet or so above the ground to the west of
and behind the building. The mound is placed at the apex of an earthwork
of rather a pear-shaped outline, of which the river-bank forms the steep east
side, while to its base, or north face, has been applied a vallum nearly
rectangular, and which may or may not be a Roman addition to a Celtic
camp. The mound, which has borne the very considerable weight of the
tower in safety, must be of considerably earlier date; and altogether the
work resembles much one of those numerous instances in which advantage
has been taken of an earlier mound to give elevation to a Norman or early
English keep.
There are, however, it is said, remains of masonry, of the character and
probable age of the tower, still standing upon a part of the vallum, and
indications that, as is known to have been the case, the tower did not stand
alone, but was within a base court. These walls are not now of any extent,
and seem to be included within a modern house built upon the old
enclosure.
This tower is at its base 37 feet in diameter, and batters inwards to 12 feet
high, when it is girt by a bold cordon or string-course, much eroded, but
apparently of a half-round section, with a water-groove on its under side.
Above this the tower is cylindrical, and 34 feet diameter, or very nearly so,
to the summit, which is at present about 60, and may have been 70 feet
high. Besides the battering base there is a slight rough set-off, apparently
part of the foundation, above ground on the southern face. Round the whole
is a walk of about 18 inches broad, so that the mound is about 40 feet across
at its top.
BRONLLYS TOWER, on the left bank of the Llyfni, a tributary of the Wye,
is situate in the parish of the same name, close north of the town of
Talgarth, on the regular and ancient way between Hereford and Brecknock.
The tower occupies the summit of a mound or knoll of earth, in great part
artificial, which crowns the steep bank of the adjacent river; rising, perhaps,
60 feet above the stream, and 30 feet or so above the ground to the west of
and behind the building. The mound is placed at the apex of an earthwork
of rather a pear-shaped outline, of which the river-bank forms the steep east
side, while to its base, or north face, has been applied a vallum nearly
rectangular, and which may or may not be a Roman addition to a Celtic
camp. The mound, which has borne the very considerable weight of the
tower in safety, must be of considerably earlier date; and altogether the
work resembles much one of those numerous instances in which advantage
has been taken of an earlier mound to give elevation to a Norman or early
English keep.
There are, however, it is said, remains of masonry, of the character and
probable age of the tower, still standing upon a part of the vallum, and
indications that, as is known to have been the case, the tower did not stand
alone, but was within a base court. These walls are not now of any extent,
and seem to be included within a modern house built upon the old
enclosure.
This tower is at its base 37 feet in diameter, and batters inwards to 12 feet
high, when it is girt by a bold cordon or string-course, much eroded, but
apparently of a half-round section, with a water-groove on its under side.
Above this the tower is cylindrical, and 34 feet diameter, or very nearly so,
to the summit, which is at present about 60, and may have been 70 feet
high. Besides the battering base there is a slight rough set-off, apparently
part of the foundation, above ground on the southern face. Round the whole
is a walk of about 18 inches broad, so that the mound is about 40 feet across
at its top.
Page 332
The tower is composed of a basement and three floors, above which was
the battlement, now completely destroyed. The basement within was
cylindrical, 18 feet diameter, with walls 9 feet 6 inches thick, and covered
by a pointed vault, the ridge of which runs about north-east and south-west.
This room was aired rather than lighted by a stepped recess, terminating in
a small loop or hole at a considerable height, through which nothing could
be seen. It was entered on the opposite or west side by a trap door in the
first floor, which lifted within a window recess, and disclosed a flight of
eight very steep stairs, 2 feet 7 inches broad, terminating in a doorway
rather above 7 feet from the floor; below which, therefore, was probably a
wooden ladder. The rebate shows the door to have opened inwards, and to
have had bolts on its outer side. The floor is on the level of the top of the
mound, and in its centre is a depression which may indicate a well.
Two openings have been broken into this chamber from the outside, on
the east and west sides. Why nine feet of masonry should have been twice
pierced, at immense labour, it is difficult to say; nor is there any trace of
door or loop which might have made the task easier, or have suggested
these openings. The broken walls do, however, show at the very base of the
structure, on each side, a horizontal or nearly horizontal square drain, of
very rough construction, in the substance of the wall. These holes have been
the subject of much speculation. They were evidently drains from the upper
floors of the tower, collected to fall into one outlet. Such drains may be seen
in the heart of an overthrown solid tower at Corfe. It is not improbable that
one of the breaches may have contained a recess or garderobe, which
communicated with the drain, and suggested the penetration of the wall in
that direction.
The first floor, of 17 feet 9 inches clear diameter, was entered by an
exterior door in the wall, at the level of the cordon, or 12 feet above the
ground, on the east side. There must have been exterior steps; but they did
not bond into the wall, and may have been of wood. The door has 3 feet 3
inches opening, with a drop arch and plain chamfered moulding. It was
defended by an interior door; but there was no portcullis or other defence.
The door-recess is 4 feet broad, and has a drop arch.
This floor had two windows towards the north and south-west, the
openings of which are about 18 inches broad, with plain equilateral heads.
The former opens from a recess 7 feet 4 inches broad, having stone side-
the battlement, now completely destroyed. The basement within was
cylindrical, 18 feet diameter, with walls 9 feet 6 inches thick, and covered
by a pointed vault, the ridge of which runs about north-east and south-west.
This room was aired rather than lighted by a stepped recess, terminating in
a small loop or hole at a considerable height, through which nothing could
be seen. It was entered on the opposite or west side by a trap door in the
first floor, which lifted within a window recess, and disclosed a flight of
eight very steep stairs, 2 feet 7 inches broad, terminating in a doorway
rather above 7 feet from the floor; below which, therefore, was probably a
wooden ladder. The rebate shows the door to have opened inwards, and to
have had bolts on its outer side. The floor is on the level of the top of the
mound, and in its centre is a depression which may indicate a well.
Two openings have been broken into this chamber from the outside, on
the east and west sides. Why nine feet of masonry should have been twice
pierced, at immense labour, it is difficult to say; nor is there any trace of
door or loop which might have made the task easier, or have suggested
these openings. The broken walls do, however, show at the very base of the
structure, on each side, a horizontal or nearly horizontal square drain, of
very rough construction, in the substance of the wall. These holes have been
the subject of much speculation. They were evidently drains from the upper
floors of the tower, collected to fall into one outlet. Such drains may be seen
in the heart of an overthrown solid tower at Corfe. It is not improbable that
one of the breaches may have contained a recess or garderobe, which
communicated with the drain, and suggested the penetration of the wall in
that direction.
The first floor, of 17 feet 9 inches clear diameter, was entered by an
exterior door in the wall, at the level of the cordon, or 12 feet above the
ground, on the east side. There must have been exterior steps; but they did
not bond into the wall, and may have been of wood. The door has 3 feet 3
inches opening, with a drop arch and plain chamfered moulding. It was
defended by an interior door; but there was no portcullis or other defence.
The door-recess is 4 feet broad, and has a drop arch.
This floor had two windows towards the north and south-west, the
openings of which are about 18 inches broad, with plain equilateral heads.
The former opens from a recess 7 feet 4 inches broad, having stone side-
Page 333
seats; between which, in the floor, is the trap descending into the dungeon.
The other window has a recess 6 feet 10 inches broad, with a stone seat on
its left side. In its right, or west jamb, is a door 2 feet 5 inches wide, square
headed, beneath a drop relieving arch; from which rises a mural stair 2 feet
5 inches broad, lighted by two exterior loops, and with a flat covering,
leading to the second floor. The window recesses are segmental, and are
formed of excellent limestone tufa ashlar.
The second story had a timber floor resting on twelve corbels, and is
cylindrical, like the first, and of the same diameter, but higher. It was the
best room. Besides its entrance door on the west, it has on the south-west a
fireplace under a flat segmental arch with plain chamfer, above which are
two slender octagonal corbels, which evidently supported a hood, probably
of timber. There are also two windows beneath drop-arch recesses, towards
the south-east and north-east. The former has stone seats; and the latter a
light 2 feet broad, with a cinquefoil head, of which the central foil is an
ogee. The head is made of two stones only. The moulding is plain, having a
shutter rebate inside; and outside, rounded jambs in place of the usual
chamfer. This recess has a stone seat on the west side only. In the east jamb
is a small square-headed door opening upon a mural stair of 2 feet 5 inches
broad, of which nineteen steps remain, and which led to the third floor.
The stair is lighted by a small hole below, and above by a square-headed
loop of 9 inches in a recess splayed to 3 feet 7 inches opening. The loop,
though about 60 feet from the ground, was closed by one vertical and three
horizontal bars. This floor may have been used as a prison.
The third stage has walls 8 feet thick, and had a wooden floor. The stair
from below opened into it on the south-east side, but seems to have been
continued in the south wall, so as to reach the battlement platform, now
entirely gone. This floor has a small mural chamber, no doubt a garderobe,
on its west side, the door into which is narrow, and has an arch of two
stones, which seems to be four-centred, or of Tudor pattern. This door is
placed between a window on the north-west, the recess of which has a flat
drop arch; and another on the south-west, of which the recess is broken
away. There is also a small fireplace on the north side, and another window
to the north-east.
The other window has a recess 6 feet 10 inches broad, with a stone seat on
its left side. In its right, or west jamb, is a door 2 feet 5 inches wide, square
headed, beneath a drop relieving arch; from which rises a mural stair 2 feet
5 inches broad, lighted by two exterior loops, and with a flat covering,
leading to the second floor. The window recesses are segmental, and are
formed of excellent limestone tufa ashlar.
The second story had a timber floor resting on twelve corbels, and is
cylindrical, like the first, and of the same diameter, but higher. It was the
best room. Besides its entrance door on the west, it has on the south-west a
fireplace under a flat segmental arch with plain chamfer, above which are
two slender octagonal corbels, which evidently supported a hood, probably
of timber. There are also two windows beneath drop-arch recesses, towards
the south-east and north-east. The former has stone seats; and the latter a
light 2 feet broad, with a cinquefoil head, of which the central foil is an
ogee. The head is made of two stones only. The moulding is plain, having a
shutter rebate inside; and outside, rounded jambs in place of the usual
chamfer. This recess has a stone seat on the west side only. In the east jamb
is a small square-headed door opening upon a mural stair of 2 feet 5 inches
broad, of which nineteen steps remain, and which led to the third floor.
The stair is lighted by a small hole below, and above by a square-headed
loop of 9 inches in a recess splayed to 3 feet 7 inches opening. The loop,
though about 60 feet from the ground, was closed by one vertical and three
horizontal bars. This floor may have been used as a prison.
The third stage has walls 8 feet thick, and had a wooden floor. The stair
from below opened into it on the south-east side, but seems to have been
continued in the south wall, so as to reach the battlement platform, now
entirely gone. This floor has a small mural chamber, no doubt a garderobe,
on its west side, the door into which is narrow, and has an arch of two
stones, which seems to be four-centred, or of Tudor pattern. This door is
placed between a window on the north-west, the recess of which has a flat
drop arch; and another on the south-west, of which the recess is broken
away. There is also a small fireplace on the north side, and another window
to the north-east.
Page 334
In the wall close south of the mural chamber are two small square shafts,
one of which was no doubt a chimney and the other perhaps a garderobe
vent from the battlements.
Bronllys Tower presents divers peculiarities. Though of rude masonry, its
door and window dressings are excellent. In general design it resembles
early English work; but its doors, recesses, fireplace, and corbels, seem of
early Decorated, and perhaps, in parts, of Perpendicular work. It is
altogether superior in detail to Penrice, which it resembles in dimensions,
and it is inferior to Tre-Tower. The walls may be safely assigned to the first
quarter of the thirteenth century; but it was no doubt inhabited as a place of
defence, and afterwards as a dwelling, for two centuries and a half after
this; and from time to time it received certain alterations, of which the
present fireplace-front, the cinquefoiled and other windows, and the
entrance to the mural chamber in the upper floor, may be cited as instances.
The vault of the basement is possibly original, but may be an addition.
one of which was no doubt a chimney and the other perhaps a garderobe
vent from the battlements.
Bronllys Tower presents divers peculiarities. Though of rude masonry, its
door and window dressings are excellent. In general design it resembles
early English work; but its doors, recesses, fireplace, and corbels, seem of
early Decorated, and perhaps, in parts, of Perpendicular work. It is
altogether superior in detail to Penrice, which it resembles in dimensions,
and it is inferior to Tre-Tower. The walls may be safely assigned to the first
quarter of the thirteenth century; but it was no doubt inhabited as a place of
defence, and afterwards as a dwelling, for two centuries and a half after
this; and from time to time it received certain alterations, of which the
present fireplace-front, the cinquefoiled and other windows, and the
entrance to the mural chamber in the upper floor, may be cited as instances.
The vault of the basement is possibly original, but may be an addition.
Page 335
THE CASTLES OF BROUGH AND BROUGHAM,
WESTMORELAND.
“ANNE Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery,” Baroness Clifford,
Westmoreland, and Vesci, hereditary sheriff of Westmoreland, and Lady of
the Honour of Skipton, in Craven, was in every way a remarkable woman:
she was of high birth, held large estates, was the widow of two considerable
peers, and had received and largely profited by an excellent education. To a
strong and copious memory she added a sound judgment and a discerning
spirit. She was a person of great firmness of character, and passed her life
amidst events that exercised and strengthened that quality. Among the many
subjects upon which she was informed, and which ranged, says Dr. Donne,
from “predestination to slea silk,” was included a very close knowledge of
the particulars of her own estates, and a very thorough determination to
maintain her houses and castles in good repair. She found the castles of her
Clifford and Vipont ancestors, Appleby, Brougham, and Brough, in ruins;
she restored and made them habitable, and, though time and the hand of the
spoiler have again brought two of them, Brougham and Brough, to decay,
their walls still exhibit much of the amending hand of the great Countess, as
well as of the original work of her remote ancestors.
BROUGH CASTLE.
Brough Castle covers the whole of a steep knoll which rises 60 feet on
the left bank of the Swimdale or Helle Beck, and is about 50 yards from the
water. The beck receives the Augill from the south-east, just above the
castle, and their combined waters, at times of considerable volume and
force, fall into the Eden about a mile and a half lower down. The castle
itself is 630 feet above the sea-level, and the encircling fells of
Westmoreland and Yorkshire rise to elevations of from 1,000 feet to 2,000
feet. About five miles to the east are the sources of the Greta and the Balder,
and a little further off and towards the north the head springs of the Lune,
WESTMORELAND.
“ANNE Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery,” Baroness Clifford,
Westmoreland, and Vesci, hereditary sheriff of Westmoreland, and Lady of
the Honour of Skipton, in Craven, was in every way a remarkable woman:
she was of high birth, held large estates, was the widow of two considerable
peers, and had received and largely profited by an excellent education. To a
strong and copious memory she added a sound judgment and a discerning
spirit. She was a person of great firmness of character, and passed her life
amidst events that exercised and strengthened that quality. Among the many
subjects upon which she was informed, and which ranged, says Dr. Donne,
from “predestination to slea silk,” was included a very close knowledge of
the particulars of her own estates, and a very thorough determination to
maintain her houses and castles in good repair. She found the castles of her
Clifford and Vipont ancestors, Appleby, Brougham, and Brough, in ruins;
she restored and made them habitable, and, though time and the hand of the
spoiler have again brought two of them, Brougham and Brough, to decay,
their walls still exhibit much of the amending hand of the great Countess, as
well as of the original work of her remote ancestors.
BROUGH CASTLE.
Brough Castle covers the whole of a steep knoll which rises 60 feet on
the left bank of the Swimdale or Helle Beck, and is about 50 yards from the
water. The beck receives the Augill from the south-east, just above the
castle, and their combined waters, at times of considerable volume and
force, fall into the Eden about a mile and a half lower down. The castle
itself is 630 feet above the sea-level, and the encircling fells of
Westmoreland and Yorkshire rise to elevations of from 1,000 feet to 2,000
feet. About five miles to the east are the sources of the Greta and the Balder,
and a little further off and towards the north the head springs of the Lune,
Page 336
not the noble stream that gives name to Lancaster, but a tributary to the
Tees.
Even in this wild and almost impenetrable country are traces of Roman
civilisation. The road from Lavatræ (Bowes) to Luguvallium (Carlisle) ran
through Brough, which is identified with the station Verteræ, and by
Appleby and Brougham, joining at Penrith the main road, the work of the
same people, from the south. Five and seven miles to the east of Brough are
two Roman camps, and there are others upon the same line of road at
Redlands and Kirkby-Thore, and a very perfect one at Brougham. The
Roman road at Brough runs generally east and west, and crosses the beck at
Market Brough, so called in distinction from Church-Brough, which lies
three furlongs to the south of the river, and contains the castle. The
collective parish is named “Brough-under-Stainmore.” Verteræ, if identified
with the existing camp and castle, stands off the main road, and south of the
river, as at Brougham.
Brough Castle
Verteræ is represented by a rectangular camp, of which the castle covers
the northern and higher end, that next to the river. This camp is 157 yards
Tees.
Even in this wild and almost impenetrable country are traces of Roman
civilisation. The road from Lavatræ (Bowes) to Luguvallium (Carlisle) ran
through Brough, which is identified with the station Verteræ, and by
Appleby and Brougham, joining at Penrith the main road, the work of the
same people, from the south. Five and seven miles to the east of Brough are
two Roman camps, and there are others upon the same line of road at
Redlands and Kirkby-Thore, and a very perfect one at Brougham. The
Roman road at Brough runs generally east and west, and crosses the beck at
Market Brough, so called in distinction from Church-Brough, which lies
three furlongs to the south of the river, and contains the castle. The
collective parish is named “Brough-under-Stainmore.” Verteræ, if identified
with the existing camp and castle, stands off the main road, and south of the
river, as at Brougham.
Brough Castle
Verteræ is represented by a rectangular camp, of which the castle covers
the northern and higher end, that next to the river. This camp is 157 yards
Page 337
north and south, by 113 yards east and west, of which the platform within
the ditch covers 134 yards by 90 yards. Of this area there is cut off at the
northern end by a cross-ditch a plot, 90 yards east and west by 50 yards,
which is occupied by the castle. This portion is further defended by some
additional earthworks, perhaps Norman, to the east and west. The southern
fragment of the camp seems to have been used as a sort of outwork to the
castle, probably for the protection of sheep and cattle.
The castle was thus placed cross-wise in the camp, and parallel to the
river, the action of which has carried away the outer half of its ditch, and
converted the slope into a precipitous bank, at the top of which is the
curtain-wall. The eastern outwork is composed of the end of the knoll, or
ridge, on which the castle stands, and which is scarped into a triangular
platform, the base of which, 57 yards long, covers the end of the fortress,
and projects 38 yards. The ditch cutting off this work from the body of the
place is 23 yards broad, and very deep. The earthworks westward are two
banks and ditches, across the tail of the knoll, one 57 yards long, and 47
yards in advance of the main ditch, and the other 84 yards further in
advance, and 94 yards long. Both are intended to cut off approaches along
the river bank. The cross-ditch covering the south front of the castle is about
30 yards broad, and up it, from the east, came the main approach. These
ditches, on the south-east and west fronts, are wholly artificial. There is also
a trace of a bank and ditch along the east front of the camp, about 30 yards
in advance of the main ditch, and about 60 yards long. A road, which may
be Roman, comes up from the south, and crosses the Augill by a bridge, 250
yards above or to the east of the castle, to join the main road over another
bridge in Market Brough. Upon this stream is the castle mill. The defences,
in masonry, seem to have been confined to the castle proper. There is no
trace of such upon the outworks, which probably were stockaded. The
ditches were at far too high a level to have been fed from the river; but the
soil is retentive, and they seem to have been filled with rain water.
The castle is composed of one ward, a trapezium in outline, the east,
north, and west sides being at right angles, and respectively 77, 90, and 57
yards, and the south or oblique side, 94 yards. It is, in fact, a right-angled
triangle, with the acute angle truncated. The keep is placed at the truncated
end, and forms the south-west angle of the ward, its south and west sides
being exterior, and in the line of the curtain. The domestic buildings were
the ditch covers 134 yards by 90 yards. Of this area there is cut off at the
northern end by a cross-ditch a plot, 90 yards east and west by 50 yards,
which is occupied by the castle. This portion is further defended by some
additional earthworks, perhaps Norman, to the east and west. The southern
fragment of the camp seems to have been used as a sort of outwork to the
castle, probably for the protection of sheep and cattle.
The castle was thus placed cross-wise in the camp, and parallel to the
river, the action of which has carried away the outer half of its ditch, and
converted the slope into a precipitous bank, at the top of which is the
curtain-wall. The eastern outwork is composed of the end of the knoll, or
ridge, on which the castle stands, and which is scarped into a triangular
platform, the base of which, 57 yards long, covers the end of the fortress,
and projects 38 yards. The ditch cutting off this work from the body of the
place is 23 yards broad, and very deep. The earthworks westward are two
banks and ditches, across the tail of the knoll, one 57 yards long, and 47
yards in advance of the main ditch, and the other 84 yards further in
advance, and 94 yards long. Both are intended to cut off approaches along
the river bank. The cross-ditch covering the south front of the castle is about
30 yards broad, and up it, from the east, came the main approach. These
ditches, on the south-east and west fronts, are wholly artificial. There is also
a trace of a bank and ditch along the east front of the camp, about 30 yards
in advance of the main ditch, and about 60 yards long. A road, which may
be Roman, comes up from the south, and crosses the Augill by a bridge, 250
yards above or to the east of the castle, to join the main road over another
bridge in Market Brough. Upon this stream is the castle mill. The defences,
in masonry, seem to have been confined to the castle proper. There is no
trace of such upon the outworks, which probably were stockaded. The
ditches were at far too high a level to have been fed from the river; but the
soil is retentive, and they seem to have been filled with rain water.
The castle is composed of one ward, a trapezium in outline, the east,
north, and west sides being at right angles, and respectively 77, 90, and 57
yards, and the south or oblique side, 94 yards. It is, in fact, a right-angled
triangle, with the acute angle truncated. The keep is placed at the truncated
end, and forms the south-west angle of the ward, its south and west sides
being exterior, and in the line of the curtain. The domestic buildings were
Page 338
along the south side, and about the south-east angle, and built against the
curtain. Near the centre of that side was the gatehouse, and attached east of
it the hall, beyond which a large three-quarter drum tower capped the south-
east angle. This and the gatehouse are the only mural towers. The kitchen
and chapel, and some later buildings, probably rested against the east wall,
and there are slight foundations between the gatehouse and the keep. The
north curtain, towards the river, seems to have been free from buildings.
Upon it are two buttresses, and in one a garderobe, entered probably by a
side door and passage in the wall. This curtain is 3 feet to 5 feet thick, and
from 12 feet to 15 feet high inside.
The Gatehouse is placed near the centre of the south side of the castle. It
was an oblong building, and formed the west end of a block, of which the
hall and withdrawing-room formed the eastern part and remainder. It was
composed of a passage between two walls, of which one remains, and is 6
feet 6 inches thick and 45 feet long; the outer 10 feet being outside the
curtain. The portal is gone, but the spring-stone remains of the inner
doorway, 3 feet 7 inches broad, and recessed 8 feet 6 inches within the inner
front. The vault of the passage, about 10 feet long, rested upon three bold
ribs, of which the springing-stones remain, and beyond which was the outer
gate, of which a part only remains. There was an upper floor, and if the
rubbish were cleared away the plan of the gatehouse would be visible. The
walls seem Norman, but the ribs, vault, and fittings are probably insertions
of the Decorated age.
The Hall was poor. It was on the first-floor level, and had a floor above
it, and, therefore, a flat ceiling. The basement is composed of three vaults
placed transversely, with flat, slightly-pointed arches. The doors are towards
the court, and one chamber has a small Tudor fireplace, in a corner. Each
had a loop in the outer end, and in the ends of two are mural garderobes in
the substance of the curtain. The hall was not above 12 feet or 14 feet high.
In its north side is a round-arched recess, probably the original entrance, by
an outer stair; and near it a fireplace. In the south or curtain side are two
good late Decorated windows of two lights, rather flamboyant in tone, with
plain exterior drips. Above these is a step, or ledge, for the floor of the
upper room, and two windows, not directly over those of the hall.
There is no very decided evidence of a Chapel. The Kitchen, probably,
was near the north-east end of the hall, and against the east end of the
curtain. Near the centre of that side was the gatehouse, and attached east of
it the hall, beyond which a large three-quarter drum tower capped the south-
east angle. This and the gatehouse are the only mural towers. The kitchen
and chapel, and some later buildings, probably rested against the east wall,
and there are slight foundations between the gatehouse and the keep. The
north curtain, towards the river, seems to have been free from buildings.
Upon it are two buttresses, and in one a garderobe, entered probably by a
side door and passage in the wall. This curtain is 3 feet to 5 feet thick, and
from 12 feet to 15 feet high inside.
The Gatehouse is placed near the centre of the south side of the castle. It
was an oblong building, and formed the west end of a block, of which the
hall and withdrawing-room formed the eastern part and remainder. It was
composed of a passage between two walls, of which one remains, and is 6
feet 6 inches thick and 45 feet long; the outer 10 feet being outside the
curtain. The portal is gone, but the spring-stone remains of the inner
doorway, 3 feet 7 inches broad, and recessed 8 feet 6 inches within the inner
front. The vault of the passage, about 10 feet long, rested upon three bold
ribs, of which the springing-stones remain, and beyond which was the outer
gate, of which a part only remains. There was an upper floor, and if the
rubbish were cleared away the plan of the gatehouse would be visible. The
walls seem Norman, but the ribs, vault, and fittings are probably insertions
of the Decorated age.
The Hall was poor. It was on the first-floor level, and had a floor above
it, and, therefore, a flat ceiling. The basement is composed of three vaults
placed transversely, with flat, slightly-pointed arches. The doors are towards
the court, and one chamber has a small Tudor fireplace, in a corner. Each
had a loop in the outer end, and in the ends of two are mural garderobes in
the substance of the curtain. The hall was not above 12 feet or 14 feet high.
In its north side is a round-arched recess, probably the original entrance, by
an outer stair; and near it a fireplace. In the south or curtain side are two
good late Decorated windows of two lights, rather flamboyant in tone, with
plain exterior drips. Above these is a step, or ledge, for the floor of the
upper room, and two windows, not directly over those of the hall.
There is no very decided evidence of a Chapel. The Kitchen, probably,
was near the north-east end of the hall, and against the east end of the
Page 339
curtain. The withdrawing-rooms were at the east end of the hall, and
extended into Clifford’s Tower, a fine bold drum of 30 feet diameter, which
caps the south-east angle of the ward. This tower seems to be of Decorated
date, and the base and part of the wall original; but it has been almost
rebuilt, probably with the old cut stones, in the Tudor period, to which
belong its numerous square-headed windows. Part of it was taken down in
1763.
The Keep stands upon rather the highest part of the enclosure. It is
rectangular, 43 feet east and west, by 51 feet north and south, and stands
upon the curtain, with which its west and south faces are continuous. As it
does not quite cover the whole end of the ward, this is closed by a low
curtain, 17 feet long and 3 feet thick, which extends from the keep to the
north-west angle of the ward. The keep is composed of a basement and
three floors, and is about 60 feet high. The parapet is gone. It has a plinth
only on the two exterior faces, where the ground is low, and there are two
sets-off which indicate the level of the second and upper floors. At the end
of each face is a pilaster, 7 feet broad, and of 6 inches projection, and those
adjacent meet and form a solid angle. These pilasters rose clear of the wall
to form angle turrets, of which parts remain. From the upper set-off, on the
north and south faces, rises an intermediate pilaster, 3 feet broad. The walls
at the base are 10 feet thick, and, at the top, 6 feet. The basement is at
present nearly filled up with earth and rubbish, concealing much of the east
side. Part of the south-east angle fell in in 1792, and obscures the details of
the main entrance.
The Basement is at present entered by a plain round-headed doorway of 4
feet 7 inches opening, in the north wall near its east end. This has a rebate
for an inner door, but no groove for a portcullis. The outer jambs are broken
away. It is pretty clear, from a comparison of its ring-stones with the
original arches above, that this entrance is an insertion, probably of the time
of James I. or Charles I. In the same side, near the doorway, is a very
peculiar air-hole, formed of two loops, 2 feet apart, which converge to a
single exterior loop. There are similar loops, of much later date, at
Caernarvon. Possibly the basement was divided into two chambers, and one
loop opened from each; but there is no trace of any partition. In the west
wall there was probably another loop, now converted into a window of 2
feet opening, square topped, set in a bold splayed recess, evidently an
extended into Clifford’s Tower, a fine bold drum of 30 feet diameter, which
caps the south-east angle of the ward. This tower seems to be of Decorated
date, and the base and part of the wall original; but it has been almost
rebuilt, probably with the old cut stones, in the Tudor period, to which
belong its numerous square-headed windows. Part of it was taken down in
1763.
The Keep stands upon rather the highest part of the enclosure. It is
rectangular, 43 feet east and west, by 51 feet north and south, and stands
upon the curtain, with which its west and south faces are continuous. As it
does not quite cover the whole end of the ward, this is closed by a low
curtain, 17 feet long and 3 feet thick, which extends from the keep to the
north-west angle of the ward. The keep is composed of a basement and
three floors, and is about 60 feet high. The parapet is gone. It has a plinth
only on the two exterior faces, where the ground is low, and there are two
sets-off which indicate the level of the second and upper floors. At the end
of each face is a pilaster, 7 feet broad, and of 6 inches projection, and those
adjacent meet and form a solid angle. These pilasters rose clear of the wall
to form angle turrets, of which parts remain. From the upper set-off, on the
north and south faces, rises an intermediate pilaster, 3 feet broad. The walls
at the base are 10 feet thick, and, at the top, 6 feet. The basement is at
present nearly filled up with earth and rubbish, concealing much of the east
side. Part of the south-east angle fell in in 1792, and obscures the details of
the main entrance.
The Basement is at present entered by a plain round-headed doorway of 4
feet 7 inches opening, in the north wall near its east end. This has a rebate
for an inner door, but no groove for a portcullis. The outer jambs are broken
away. It is pretty clear, from a comparison of its ring-stones with the
original arches above, that this entrance is an insertion, probably of the time
of James I. or Charles I. In the same side, near the doorway, is a very
peculiar air-hole, formed of two loops, 2 feet apart, which converge to a
single exterior loop. There are similar loops, of much later date, at
Caernarvon. Possibly the basement was divided into two chambers, and one
loop opened from each; but there is no trace of any partition. In the west
wall there was probably another loop, now converted into a window of 2
feet opening, square topped, set in a bold splayed recess, evidently an
Page 340
insertion of a period when security was no longer the first consideration.
The window opens in the line of the plinth, the set-off of which is carried
over its head as a square hood-moulding. The south wall was blank, and so,
probably, was that to the east. The basement was 13 feet or 14 feet high,
with a flat timber ceiling. There certainly were no mural chambers, and no
staircase in it. It was probably entered from above by a trapdoor and ladder,
and used as a store.
The first floor, about 13 feet high, seems to have had loops in plain
round-headed recesses in the north, south, and west sides, of which the
latter is broken away, and a two-light Tudor window inserted. The northern
loop has also been replaced by a similar window. In the south wall the loop
is represented by a small square opening. In the ruins of the east side may
be traced the remains of a doorway and the base of a lobby and staircase in
the wall. It is clear that the external door was in this face, near the south
end, and that it opened direct into the first floor, while right and left, in the
thickness of the wall, was a mural passage, at its south end a mere lobby,
but to the north containing a straight staircase which rises 13 feet by twelve
steps, 4 feet 4 inches broad, towards the east angle, where was a small
lobby which opened on the second floor, and was lighted by a loop in the
east wall.
Thus, the second floor was entered in its east side by a direct mural stair,
like those at Carlisle, at Chepstow, and at Ludlow. In each of the sides,
north, south, and west, of this floor is an original round-headed recess, and
in the east wall, over the mural stair, are traces of a shorter recess, placed
higher up, whence seems to have been a passage into a mural chamber in
the south-east angle. The southern recess alone contains its original
window. This is a small coupled window of two lights, square headed, but
within a round-headed arch. The dividing shaft is decidedly Norman, as is
the whole character of the opening. The north window is also coupled and
round headed, but looks like a Stuart insertion. The east and west windows
are square headed, of Tudor date. In the north-west angle is a mural recess
with loops, possibly a garderobe, and in the north-east angle a square-
headed doorway opens by a lobby into a well-stair, which commences at
this level and ascends to the roof. It is 7 feet 6 inches in diameter, and rises
31 feet by forty-six steps to the allure, or rampart walk. This second was
originally the principal and uppermost floor, lofty, and with a high-pitched
The window opens in the line of the plinth, the set-off of which is carried
over its head as a square hood-moulding. The south wall was blank, and so,
probably, was that to the east. The basement was 13 feet or 14 feet high,
with a flat timber ceiling. There certainly were no mural chambers, and no
staircase in it. It was probably entered from above by a trapdoor and ladder,
and used as a store.
The first floor, about 13 feet high, seems to have had loops in plain
round-headed recesses in the north, south, and west sides, of which the
latter is broken away, and a two-light Tudor window inserted. The northern
loop has also been replaced by a similar window. In the south wall the loop
is represented by a small square opening. In the ruins of the east side may
be traced the remains of a doorway and the base of a lobby and staircase in
the wall. It is clear that the external door was in this face, near the south
end, and that it opened direct into the first floor, while right and left, in the
thickness of the wall, was a mural passage, at its south end a mere lobby,
but to the north containing a straight staircase which rises 13 feet by twelve
steps, 4 feet 4 inches broad, towards the east angle, where was a small
lobby which opened on the second floor, and was lighted by a loop in the
east wall.
Thus, the second floor was entered in its east side by a direct mural stair,
like those at Carlisle, at Chepstow, and at Ludlow. In each of the sides,
north, south, and west, of this floor is an original round-headed recess, and
in the east wall, over the mural stair, are traces of a shorter recess, placed
higher up, whence seems to have been a passage into a mural chamber in
the south-east angle. The southern recess alone contains its original
window. This is a small coupled window of two lights, square headed, but
within a round-headed arch. The dividing shaft is decidedly Norman, as is
the whole character of the opening. The north window is also coupled and
round headed, but looks like a Stuart insertion. The east and west windows
are square headed, of Tudor date. In the north-west angle is a mural recess
with loops, possibly a garderobe, and in the north-east angle a square-
headed doorway opens by a lobby into a well-stair, which commences at
this level and ascends to the roof. It is 7 feet 6 inches in diameter, and rises
31 feet by forty-six steps to the allure, or rampart walk. This second was
originally the principal and uppermost floor, lofty, and with a high-pitched
Page 341
roof, the weather moulding of which is still seen on the east and west walls.
The roof ridge was at the level of the rampart walk, and, as the north and
south walls seem original, there must have been a deep cavity on either
side, with the gutter in its bottom. Subsequently this roof was removed, and
replaced by a flat roof, at the rampart level, the line of which is marked by a
row of corbels in the north and south walls. The cause of this change,
common, probably, to all Norman keeps, was the superior convenience for
defence of a flat roof, rendered possible by the introduction of sheet lead as
a roofing material.
The third floor was formed by dividing the height thus gained by a floor
laid at the level of the springing of the old roof, and thus was created a
second floor of 10 feet, and a third of 20 feet. In the west wall was opened a
square-headed window, in a splayed recess, and close south of it is a small
Tudor fireplace, the flue of which ascends into the south-west turret. The
east wall is less perfect, but still shows the line of the old roof, and the jamb
of a Tudor window. In the north-east angle is the door from the well-stair.
The floors of the walls were throughout of timber, the joists of the first
and second resting in the holes in the north and south walls of the turrets;
that at the south-west is probably modern. It contains the flues of several
fireplaces which appear to have been inserted in the south wall, but which
have fallen out. The keep probably had originally no fireplaces. The north-
east turret contains the head of the well-stair. The other two turrets seem to
have been mere shells, having only the two outer walls. They all rose about
12 feet above the rampart walk, and 5 feet or 6 feet above the crest of the
parapet on the outside of the east and south walls of the keep. Near the top
are ranges of triangular holes formed by thin tile-stones set on edge, and
looking much like pigeon-holes, which they probably were. The row in the
south wall has five holes, and in the south-east turret are three. In the east
wall are two sets, one of three holes, and one, imperfect, of two. There is
one hole in the north-east turret. They are evidently original, and do not
appear to communicate with the interior. There is no trace of a regular
forebuilding, for which the keep, like Goderich, was too small, but there
was probably an open stair, either of wood or stone, ascending to the main
door, which was about 12 feet from the ground. The exterior of the keep
was quite plain, and of rather rude workmanship. The pilasters are of square
stones, and the wall, in part of similar material, and in part of stones of
The roof ridge was at the level of the rampart walk, and, as the north and
south walls seem original, there must have been a deep cavity on either
side, with the gutter in its bottom. Subsequently this roof was removed, and
replaced by a flat roof, at the rampart level, the line of which is marked by a
row of corbels in the north and south walls. The cause of this change,
common, probably, to all Norman keeps, was the superior convenience for
defence of a flat roof, rendered possible by the introduction of sheet lead as
a roofing material.
The third floor was formed by dividing the height thus gained by a floor
laid at the level of the springing of the old roof, and thus was created a
second floor of 10 feet, and a third of 20 feet. In the west wall was opened a
square-headed window, in a splayed recess, and close south of it is a small
Tudor fireplace, the flue of which ascends into the south-west turret. The
east wall is less perfect, but still shows the line of the old roof, and the jamb
of a Tudor window. In the north-east angle is the door from the well-stair.
The floors of the walls were throughout of timber, the joists of the first
and second resting in the holes in the north and south walls of the turrets;
that at the south-west is probably modern. It contains the flues of several
fireplaces which appear to have been inserted in the south wall, but which
have fallen out. The keep probably had originally no fireplaces. The north-
east turret contains the head of the well-stair. The other two turrets seem to
have been mere shells, having only the two outer walls. They all rose about
12 feet above the rampart walk, and 5 feet or 6 feet above the crest of the
parapet on the outside of the east and south walls of the keep. Near the top
are ranges of triangular holes formed by thin tile-stones set on edge, and
looking much like pigeon-holes, which they probably were. The row in the
south wall has five holes, and in the south-east turret are three. In the east
wall are two sets, one of three holes, and one, imperfect, of two. There is
one hole in the north-east turret. They are evidently original, and do not
appear to communicate with the interior. There is no trace of a regular
forebuilding, for which the keep, like Goderich, was too small, but there
was probably an open stair, either of wood or stone, ascending to the main
door, which was about 12 feet from the ground. The exterior of the keep
was quite plain, and of rather rude workmanship. The pilasters are of square
stones, and the wall, in part of similar material, and in part of stones of
Page 342
irregular shape, laid as uncoursed rubble. There is no herring-bone work,
and no visible trace of Roman material worked up.
The keep is evidently late Norman, and the walls are original, though
much pulled about, and with many insertions of the Tudor and Stuart days.
This is another example of the high-pitched roof, as at Richmond and
Bridgenorth, the whole roof having been concealed by the walls.
Probably the founder of the castle built both the keep and the curtain wall
on the lines of the present curtain, and cut the cross-ditch which isolates it
from the rest of the Roman camp. The gatehouse and hall, and the south-
east tower were probably alterations and additions of the Decorated period.
The whole fortress was repaired by Countess Anne, whose hand may be
traced throughout the structure. The keep has been split with gunpowder,
probably by order of the Parliament, producing fissures in its north and
south walls.
Robert de Veteriponte, or Vipont, the head of a great Westmoreland
family, to which the armorial bearings of the Musgraves and Lowthers, the
Blenkinsops and Hellbecks, show them to have paid early allegiance, is
regarded as the founder of the castles of Brougham and Brough, at any rate
in their Norman form. His immediate ancestor came over with Duke
William of Normandy, and the family first planted themselves in the
counties of Devon, Northampton, and York. Robert, the second or third in
descent, flourished in the reigns of Henry II., Richard, John, and Henry III.,
dying in 1228, the twelfth of the latter sovereign. He filled many posts of
military trust, was custos of many castles, and sheriff of many midland and
northern counties. He was also a justice itinerant, and of the Common Pleas.
In 1203 (4 John) he had a grant from the king of the Bailliewick of
Westmoreland and the castles of Appleby and Burg, at first during pleasure,
but afterwards in fee. Possibly the grant was connected with the fact that his
mother, Maud, was a member of the great Westmoreland family of
Morville, and probably a daughter of Hugh de Morville, one of Becket’s
assassins. Robert’s wife, Idonea de Buisli, was heiress of the castle and
Honour of Tickhill. He was a man of very great wealth and power, and
likely to have taken steps to secure his Westmoreland barony against its
northern neighbours. The grant mentions the castles of Appleby and Burgh;
and Burgh, that is Brough, was sacked by William of Scotland in 1174.
Probably, therefore, there already existed some kind of strongholds at those
and no visible trace of Roman material worked up.
The keep is evidently late Norman, and the walls are original, though
much pulled about, and with many insertions of the Tudor and Stuart days.
This is another example of the high-pitched roof, as at Richmond and
Bridgenorth, the whole roof having been concealed by the walls.
Probably the founder of the castle built both the keep and the curtain wall
on the lines of the present curtain, and cut the cross-ditch which isolates it
from the rest of the Roman camp. The gatehouse and hall, and the south-
east tower were probably alterations and additions of the Decorated period.
The whole fortress was repaired by Countess Anne, whose hand may be
traced throughout the structure. The keep has been split with gunpowder,
probably by order of the Parliament, producing fissures in its north and
south walls.
Robert de Veteriponte, or Vipont, the head of a great Westmoreland
family, to which the armorial bearings of the Musgraves and Lowthers, the
Blenkinsops and Hellbecks, show them to have paid early allegiance, is
regarded as the founder of the castles of Brougham and Brough, at any rate
in their Norman form. His immediate ancestor came over with Duke
William of Normandy, and the family first planted themselves in the
counties of Devon, Northampton, and York. Robert, the second or third in
descent, flourished in the reigns of Henry II., Richard, John, and Henry III.,
dying in 1228, the twelfth of the latter sovereign. He filled many posts of
military trust, was custos of many castles, and sheriff of many midland and
northern counties. He was also a justice itinerant, and of the Common Pleas.
In 1203 (4 John) he had a grant from the king of the Bailliewick of
Westmoreland and the castles of Appleby and Burg, at first during pleasure,
but afterwards in fee. Possibly the grant was connected with the fact that his
mother, Maud, was a member of the great Westmoreland family of
Morville, and probably a daughter of Hugh de Morville, one of Becket’s
assassins. Robert’s wife, Idonea de Buisli, was heiress of the castle and
Honour of Tickhill. He was a man of very great wealth and power, and
likely to have taken steps to secure his Westmoreland barony against its
northern neighbours. The grant mentions the castles of Appleby and Burgh;
and Burgh, that is Brough, was sacked by William of Scotland in 1174.
Probably, therefore, there already existed some kind of strongholds at those
Page 343
places, founded, it may be, by the English on the Roman stations.
Moreover, the year 1204 is very late indeed for keeps of so decided a
Norman type, and it is no doubt possible that De Meschines, or De
Morville, the preceding lords of the fee, may have built both castles.[2]
John de Vipont, son and successor, died 25 Henry III., in debt to the king,
who gave his estates in ward to the Prior of Carlisle, who neglected the
castles. In his time the keep of Brough was out of repair, and the joists
rotten. Lord John sided with the barons, and died of wounds received at
Lewes. His daughter, and finally sole heiress, Isabel, was married to Roger
de Clifford,—the Roger of the inscription over the gate of Brougham,—and
who was killed in battle in Anglesea by the Welsh, in the reign of Edward I.
Robert de Clifford, their son, lord of the Honour of Skipton, of Appleby,
Brougham, and Brough, fell at Bannockburn. There were then two parks at
Brough, a mill, and the demesne land. The castle ditches let for the herbage
at 6s. 8d. per annum, and the constable had 40s.
Roger, the next lord, was a great builder; he followed the fortunes and
shared the fate of Thomas of Lancaster. He is thought to have made the
additions to the eastern side of Brougham, where his arms and those of his
wife, Maud Beauchamp, were long to be seen. His successor was his
brother Robert, whose second and surviving son Roger, proved age 28
Edward III., recovered the family estates which had been forfeited, and kept
his castles in repair. He died, 15 Richard II., seized of Appleby, Burgham,
and Burgh. The four following lords fell in battle: Thomas in Germany,
John in France, Thomas at St. Alban’s, and John at Towton. In 4 Henry V.,
the castle of Brougham lay waste, and the whole profits of the demesne
were not sufficient to repair and maintain it. The next, Henry, was the
Shepherd Lord, who, in 1519, held a great feast at Brough, at Christmas,
which was followed, in 1521, by a severe fire, in which the castle was
burned to the bare walls, and long remained waste. The succeeding lord and
his son, both Henry, were the first and second Earls of Cumberland, of
whom the latter died at Brougham Castle about 1560. George, the third earl,
the admiral, who died 1605, was born at Brough in the last year of Queen
Mary, 1558. With his brother Francis, the fourth earl, who entertained King
James at Brough for three days in 1617, the male line failed, and the estates
and baronies came to Countess Anne, the daughter of Earl George. This
lady, who repaired Brougham and Brough in 1651–2, was born at
Moreover, the year 1204 is very late indeed for keeps of so decided a
Norman type, and it is no doubt possible that De Meschines, or De
Morville, the preceding lords of the fee, may have built both castles.[2]
John de Vipont, son and successor, died 25 Henry III., in debt to the king,
who gave his estates in ward to the Prior of Carlisle, who neglected the
castles. In his time the keep of Brough was out of repair, and the joists
rotten. Lord John sided with the barons, and died of wounds received at
Lewes. His daughter, and finally sole heiress, Isabel, was married to Roger
de Clifford,—the Roger of the inscription over the gate of Brougham,—and
who was killed in battle in Anglesea by the Welsh, in the reign of Edward I.
Robert de Clifford, their son, lord of the Honour of Skipton, of Appleby,
Brougham, and Brough, fell at Bannockburn. There were then two parks at
Brough, a mill, and the demesne land. The castle ditches let for the herbage
at 6s. 8d. per annum, and the constable had 40s.
Roger, the next lord, was a great builder; he followed the fortunes and
shared the fate of Thomas of Lancaster. He is thought to have made the
additions to the eastern side of Brougham, where his arms and those of his
wife, Maud Beauchamp, were long to be seen. His successor was his
brother Robert, whose second and surviving son Roger, proved age 28
Edward III., recovered the family estates which had been forfeited, and kept
his castles in repair. He died, 15 Richard II., seized of Appleby, Burgham,
and Burgh. The four following lords fell in battle: Thomas in Germany,
John in France, Thomas at St. Alban’s, and John at Towton. In 4 Henry V.,
the castle of Brougham lay waste, and the whole profits of the demesne
were not sufficient to repair and maintain it. The next, Henry, was the
Shepherd Lord, who, in 1519, held a great feast at Brough, at Christmas,
which was followed, in 1521, by a severe fire, in which the castle was
burned to the bare walls, and long remained waste. The succeeding lord and
his son, both Henry, were the first and second Earls of Cumberland, of
whom the latter died at Brougham Castle about 1560. George, the third earl,
the admiral, who died 1605, was born at Brough in the last year of Queen
Mary, 1558. With his brother Francis, the fourth earl, who entertained King
James at Brough for three days in 1617, the male line failed, and the estates
and baronies came to Countess Anne, the daughter of Earl George. This
lady, who repaired Brougham and Brough in 1651–2, was born at
Page 344
Brougham in 1589, in the same room in which her father was born, her
mother died, and King James was received. Margaret, her daughter, by the
Earl of Dorset, carried the estates to the Tuftons, earls of Thanet, who also
inherited the hereditary shrievalty of Westmoreland, until their extinction in
the present century. They dismantled Brougham and Brough, and sold the
fittings in 1714. The present owner appears to be very attentive to what
remains of the two castles. Both are repaired in a very substantial manner.
BROUGHAM CASTLE.
This very curious pile stands on the right bank of the river Eamont, just
below the point at which it is joined from the south by the Lowther, so that
the combined stream covers the fortress on the north, as do the two waters
and the marshy ground between them on the west front. The castle is placed
but a few yards distant from and but a few feet above the Eamont, and
between it and the large rectangular camp which marks the site of the
Roman “Brovacum,” whence both castle and township derive their names;
such, at least, seems the most probable etymology, though a claim has been
set up for Burgham, which would have been more tenable had there been
evidence of the place having been an English as well as a Roman
stronghold.
The Roman road from Brough and Appleby towards Carlisle and Penrith
skirts the north-eastern front of both camp and castle, and is carried, by a
modern bridge, across the river, a few yards below the latter. Above the
castle and upon the Eamont was placed the castle mill, the weir connected
with which still remains. The actual site of Brovacum has been claimed for
Brougham Hall, on the adjacent high ground; but, however this may be, the
camp below is undoubtedly Roman, and an excellent example of the
entrenchments of that people. A Roman altar was found, in 1602, at the
confluence of the two rivers. What earlier name is embodied in the Roman
Brovacum is not known, but “Bro” in South Wales is the old Welsh word
for “the hill country,” and is preserved in Brocastle and Broviscin, in
Glamorgan. The parish of Brougham is large; the church is called
Ninekirks, probably a corruption of St. Ninian’s kirk. The parochial chapel,
which stands near Brougham Hall, is dedicated to St. Wilfrid.
mother died, and King James was received. Margaret, her daughter, by the
Earl of Dorset, carried the estates to the Tuftons, earls of Thanet, who also
inherited the hereditary shrievalty of Westmoreland, until their extinction in
the present century. They dismantled Brougham and Brough, and sold the
fittings in 1714. The present owner appears to be very attentive to what
remains of the two castles. Both are repaired in a very substantial manner.
BROUGHAM CASTLE.
This very curious pile stands on the right bank of the river Eamont, just
below the point at which it is joined from the south by the Lowther, so that
the combined stream covers the fortress on the north, as do the two waters
and the marshy ground between them on the west front. The castle is placed
but a few yards distant from and but a few feet above the Eamont, and
between it and the large rectangular camp which marks the site of the
Roman “Brovacum,” whence both castle and township derive their names;
such, at least, seems the most probable etymology, though a claim has been
set up for Burgham, which would have been more tenable had there been
evidence of the place having been an English as well as a Roman
stronghold.
The Roman road from Brough and Appleby towards Carlisle and Penrith
skirts the north-eastern front of both camp and castle, and is carried, by a
modern bridge, across the river, a few yards below the latter. Above the
castle and upon the Eamont was placed the castle mill, the weir connected
with which still remains. The actual site of Brovacum has been claimed for
Brougham Hall, on the adjacent high ground; but, however this may be, the
camp below is undoubtedly Roman, and an excellent example of the
entrenchments of that people. A Roman altar was found, in 1602, at the
confluence of the two rivers. What earlier name is embodied in the Roman
Brovacum is not known, but “Bro” in South Wales is the old Welsh word
for “the hill country,” and is preserved in Brocastle and Broviscin, in
Glamorgan. The parish of Brougham is large; the church is called
Ninekirks, probably a corruption of St. Ninian’s kirk. The parochial chapel,
which stands near Brougham Hall, is dedicated to St. Wilfrid.
Page 345
The camp is contained within a single bank and exterior ditch, both very
well marked, though in height and depth very much reduced. Along the
scarp or inner slope of the ditch are traces of a step or terrace, as for a line
of palisades, in front of and below the main defence. The area within the
ditch is 113 yards broad, and its length, now 134 yards, was probably 198
yards, those being the proportions of the camp at Brough. The ditch is about
25 yards broad. The entrance is gone; it was no doubt in the centre of the
east side, that towards the road. The angles are, as usual, slightly rounded.
The castle stands a few yards north of the camp, the adjacent parts of the
latter having been cut away and levelled in forming its outworks. The castle
is, in plan, a very irregular four-sided figure; the south and west sides meet
at less than a right angle, and are in length 80 yards and 77 yards. The north
side, at right angles to the west, and upon the river, is 50 yards. The east
side has been partly rebuilt, with a low salient angle. It is in length about 40
yards. This area is the main, or rather the only, court of the castle. The keep
originally stood clear within the court, near to its north-east angle; a large
gatehouse now occupies that angle, and much of the north front, and is
connected with the keep, which, therefore, is no longer isolated. The hall
and domestic buildings stand against the south wall, and are continued a
short distance along the east wall. A large square tower is placed at the
south-west angle, and covers a postern. The west wall is free, and seems to
have been low. The castle is about 50 yards from the river, and 30 feet
above it. The entrance was from the east, along the bank of the river. A
ditch, wholly artificial, and probably filled with rainwater, protected the
west, south, and east fronts. Towards the west it is broadest and deepest,
that being the exposed front. Towards the river the natural fall and the
marshy character of the ground were a sufficient defence. The entrance is,
and probably always was, in the east wall, at its north or river end. This part
of the enceinte wall is built with a shoulder or re-entering angle, so as to
command, for some yards, the approach to the outer gate. The moat is now
traversed by a causeway of earth, replacing the earlier drawbridge.
well marked, though in height and depth very much reduced. Along the
scarp or inner slope of the ditch are traces of a step or terrace, as for a line
of palisades, in front of and below the main defence. The area within the
ditch is 113 yards broad, and its length, now 134 yards, was probably 198
yards, those being the proportions of the camp at Brough. The ditch is about
25 yards broad. The entrance is gone; it was no doubt in the centre of the
east side, that towards the road. The angles are, as usual, slightly rounded.
The castle stands a few yards north of the camp, the adjacent parts of the
latter having been cut away and levelled in forming its outworks. The castle
is, in plan, a very irregular four-sided figure; the south and west sides meet
at less than a right angle, and are in length 80 yards and 77 yards. The north
side, at right angles to the west, and upon the river, is 50 yards. The east
side has been partly rebuilt, with a low salient angle. It is in length about 40
yards. This area is the main, or rather the only, court of the castle. The keep
originally stood clear within the court, near to its north-east angle; a large
gatehouse now occupies that angle, and much of the north front, and is
connected with the keep, which, therefore, is no longer isolated. The hall
and domestic buildings stand against the south wall, and are continued a
short distance along the east wall. A large square tower is placed at the
south-west angle, and covers a postern. The west wall is free, and seems to
have been low. The castle is about 50 yards from the river, and 30 feet
above it. The entrance was from the east, along the bank of the river. A
ditch, wholly artificial, and probably filled with rainwater, protected the
west, south, and east fronts. Towards the west it is broadest and deepest,
that being the exposed front. Towards the river the natural fall and the
marshy character of the ground were a sufficient defence. The entrance is,
and probably always was, in the east wall, at its north or river end. This part
of the enceinte wall is built with a shoulder or re-entering angle, so as to
command, for some yards, the approach to the outer gate. The moat is now
traversed by a causeway of earth, replacing the earlier drawbridge.
Page 346
Brougham Castle
The Gatehouse, rectangular in plan, and 90 feet long by 39 feet broad,
occupies the space between the keep and the north wall, and extends either
way beyond the keep. It is composed of two parts,—one, a block of
chambers, lodges, &c., forms, or rather abuts upon, the curtain; the other,
connecting these chambers with the keep, contains the vaulted entrance.
The entrance is broken transversely into two parts, separated by a small
open court. The outer passage, 34 feet long, belongs to the outer gate; the
other, 36 feet, to the inner gate. The keep forms one side and the lodges the
other. Thus, there are really two gatehouses,—one abutting on the north-
east, and one on the north-west, angle of the keep, each with its own
defences and gates, the buildings on the north communicating with both.
The exterior portal is in the east wall. It has no flanking towers, being
protected by the curtain. The north-east angle is capped by a square
buttress, placed diagonally. The gateway has a plain, flat segmental arch
over it. Upon a stone are the words, “This made Roger,” and above are two
tiers, each of two good Decorated windows of two lights, with trefoiled
heads and a quatrefoil in the head, and divided by a transom. Between the
two upper windows are three bold corbels, intended to support a
machicolation resembling those on each face of the keep. It is said that
formerly the arms of Vaux, “checquy,” were carved over the entrance; but it
The Gatehouse, rectangular in plan, and 90 feet long by 39 feet broad,
occupies the space between the keep and the north wall, and extends either
way beyond the keep. It is composed of two parts,—one, a block of
chambers, lodges, &c., forms, or rather abuts upon, the curtain; the other,
connecting these chambers with the keep, contains the vaulted entrance.
The entrance is broken transversely into two parts, separated by a small
open court. The outer passage, 34 feet long, belongs to the outer gate; the
other, 36 feet, to the inner gate. The keep forms one side and the lodges the
other. Thus, there are really two gatehouses,—one abutting on the north-
east, and one on the north-west, angle of the keep, each with its own
defences and gates, the buildings on the north communicating with both.
The exterior portal is in the east wall. It has no flanking towers, being
protected by the curtain. The north-east angle is capped by a square
buttress, placed diagonally. The gateway has a plain, flat segmental arch
over it. Upon a stone are the words, “This made Roger,” and above are two
tiers, each of two good Decorated windows of two lights, with trefoiled
heads and a quatrefoil in the head, and divided by a transom. Between the
two upper windows are three bold corbels, intended to support a
machicolation resembling those on each face of the keep. It is said that
formerly the arms of Vaux, “checquy,” were carved over the entrance; but it
Page 347
seems probable that they were the arms of Clifford, “chequy, a fess,” or it
may have been “a bendlet.” The passage within, 11 feet broad, is vaulted.
The first defence was a portcullis, of which the square groove, 6 inches
broad by 4 inches deep, remains. Within this is the rebate for a pair of gates,
and on the right the small door of a lodge. At the inner end of the passage
was a second pair of gates, opening towards the first pair, and beyond them
the open court, with the keep wall on the left. Above this outer gateway is a
large room, 21 feet east and west, by 32 feet long. In its west wall is a
fireplace, and a door opening into the middle chambers. In its north wall a
good Decorated window looks upon the river; in the east wall are two
windows overlooking the outer gate, and between them, over the gate, a
recess for working the portcullis.
may have been “a bendlet.” The passage within, 11 feet broad, is vaulted.
The first defence was a portcullis, of which the square groove, 6 inches
broad by 4 inches deep, remains. Within this is the rebate for a pair of gates,
and on the right the small door of a lodge. At the inner end of the passage
was a second pair of gates, opening towards the first pair, and beyond them
the open court, with the keep wall on the left. Above this outer gateway is a
large room, 21 feet east and west, by 32 feet long. In its west wall is a
fireplace, and a door opening into the middle chambers. In its north wall a
good Decorated window looks upon the river; in the east wall are two
windows overlooking the outer gate, and between them, over the gate, a
recess for working the portcullis.
Page 348
Ground Plan of Norman Keep. Brougham Castle.
PLAN OF BROUGHAM CASTLE
Beyond the open court is the second part of the gatehouse, which
commences by a portcullis, backed by a pair of doors, within which is a
passage 20 feet long by 16 feet broad, vaulted in two bays with transverse
and diagonal ribs springing from six corbels. There are no ridge ribs; the
inner or further portal also had doors. The left-hand lodge is a vaulted cell,
11 feet long by 3 feet 3 inches broad. On the right the room is much larger,
and leads to the north postern. The exterior or north front of these two
PLAN OF BROUGHAM CASTLE
Beyond the open court is the second part of the gatehouse, which
commences by a portcullis, backed by a pair of doors, within which is a
passage 20 feet long by 16 feet broad, vaulted in two bays with transverse
and diagonal ribs springing from six corbels. There are no ridge ribs; the
inner or further portal also had doors. The left-hand lodge is a vaulted cell,
11 feet long by 3 feet 3 inches broad. On the right the room is much larger,
and leads to the north postern. The exterior or north front of these two
Page 349
gatehouses forms a handsome block, and is pierced by various openings at
different levels. At its north-east corner is an angle buttress; then follows
one in section a half square, set on diagonally; and west of this, again, is a
large square buttress, in one side of which is the north postern, a small
shoulder-headed door at the foot of a flight of stairs.
The lofty tower at the south-west angle of the court is about 35 feet
square, with an appendage on the east face. It has thick walls and mural
passages, and projects but little from the curtain. It has a basement and three
upper floors. The first floor was entered by an exterior flight of stairs,
which also communicated with the rampart of the west curtain. At its
junction with the tower is the postern, the approach to which is guarded by
a loop, while nearly over the door discharges the shoot of a garderobe.
Along the south wall are the domestic buildings, of which the chief was
the chapel, about 35 feet by 20 feet. This was on the first floor, with a
timber floor and open roof. The chamber below was entered from the court
by a lancet door. The chapel had a large east window, of which the jambs
remain; and in its south or curtain wall are two long trefoil-headed
windows, splayed within. Towards the east end are three sedilia, also with
trefoiled heads and trefoils in the spandrels, the whole beneath a flat top.
There is also a piscina of late Decorated aspect. Near the chapel, towards
the south-east angle, the remains of a large fireplace seem to indicate the
kitchen, and along the east wall are two windows, and traces of a fireplace
between them, all which seem to belong to the hall. At the north end, also,
on the first floor, are remains of a handsome door in the Perpendicular style,
with a four-centred arch beneath a square head. The staircase may have
been exterior. Grose shows some walls here in 1775, which are now gone.
The Keep, called in Countess Anne’s time “the Roman Tower,” the only
remain of the original castle, is 44 feet square, and, in its present state, of
unusual height. Its exterior plinth is confined to the north side. The two
western angles are covered by pilasters, 12 feet broad and of 6 inches
projection, one on each face, meeting so as to form a solid angle. Two other
pilasters, balancing these, cover the east end of the north and south walls,
but there are none on the east side, that having been covered by the
forebuilding. The south face is prolonged eastwards 12 feet by a wall 5 feet
thick, which rises to the third-floor level, and formed the south end of the
forebuilding. The pilasters rise to the present summit of the wall, and
different levels. At its north-east corner is an angle buttress; then follows
one in section a half square, set on diagonally; and west of this, again, is a
large square buttress, in one side of which is the north postern, a small
shoulder-headed door at the foot of a flight of stairs.
The lofty tower at the south-west angle of the court is about 35 feet
square, with an appendage on the east face. It has thick walls and mural
passages, and projects but little from the curtain. It has a basement and three
upper floors. The first floor was entered by an exterior flight of stairs,
which also communicated with the rampart of the west curtain. At its
junction with the tower is the postern, the approach to which is guarded by
a loop, while nearly over the door discharges the shoot of a garderobe.
Along the south wall are the domestic buildings, of which the chief was
the chapel, about 35 feet by 20 feet. This was on the first floor, with a
timber floor and open roof. The chamber below was entered from the court
by a lancet door. The chapel had a large east window, of which the jambs
remain; and in its south or curtain wall are two long trefoil-headed
windows, splayed within. Towards the east end are three sedilia, also with
trefoiled heads and trefoils in the spandrels, the whole beneath a flat top.
There is also a piscina of late Decorated aspect. Near the chapel, towards
the south-east angle, the remains of a large fireplace seem to indicate the
kitchen, and along the east wall are two windows, and traces of a fireplace
between them, all which seem to belong to the hall. At the north end, also,
on the first floor, are remains of a handsome door in the Perpendicular style,
with a four-centred arch beneath a square head. The staircase may have
been exterior. Grose shows some walls here in 1775, which are now gone.
The Keep, called in Countess Anne’s time “the Roman Tower,” the only
remain of the original castle, is 44 feet square, and, in its present state, of
unusual height. Its exterior plinth is confined to the north side. The two
western angles are covered by pilasters, 12 feet broad and of 6 inches
projection, one on each face, meeting so as to form a solid angle. Two other
pilasters, balancing these, cover the east end of the north and south walls,
but there are none on the east side, that having been covered by the
forebuilding. The south face is prolonged eastwards 12 feet by a wall 5 feet
thick, which rises to the third-floor level, and formed the south end of the
forebuilding. The pilasters rise to the present summit of the wall, and
Page 350
terminated originally in four square turrets, of which traces remain at the
two northern angles. The keep has a basement and three upper floors, of
which the uppermost, if not an addition, has been recast. The walls are 11
feet thick at the base, and at least 10 feet at the rampart level. The parapet is
gone. There is no external set-off. In the centre of each face, and near the
top, are three or four bold corbels, which evidently carried a short
machicolation; and in the angles, near the top, are several cruciform loops,
slightly fantailed at the top and bottom, and with lateral arms ending in
oillets, much resembling those at Kenilworth. Some of these are the lower
half of those of the turrets, which, with the parapet, were standing in 1775.
At the upper part of the south-eastern angle the wall is corbelled out 12
inches for a breadth of 15 feet on the southern, and rather less on the
eastern, face. This is to give a little more space to a mural oratory, which
has a loop on the south face, and a small trefoil-headed window towards the
east, clear of the forebuilding. On the north face, near the east pilaster, a
vertical line of six loops shows the presence of a well-stair from the first
floor. The four lower loops have round heads; the two upper have square
heads, and are probably later.
The basement is at the ground level. It has splayed loops to the north,
west, and south; and in the east side is a recess with parallel sides, and a
trace of a rebate of a doorway. This, if original, must have led into a cell
below the forebuilding, as at Rochester; but it may be a Decorated insertion.
It is nearly covered up with rubbish. In the north-east angle, which has been
filled up with a short wall, is a small door opening into a bent passage,
which now leads into the open air, at where was the foot of the great
entrance-staircase. There may always have been a cell here, but the cross-
wall and the outer door are not original. In the west end of the north wall is
another recess opening into a garderobe chamber, 5 feet long by 3 feet
broad, and original. This basement floor has had a vaulted and ribbed roof,
springing from corbels at the angles, and from four others, in the centre of
each side. There was, in 1775, a central pier. As at Richmond, this vault was
an insertion replacing timber. The basement was about 13 feet high.
The first floor is 23 feet square. It has round-headed window-openings to
the north and west, in round-headed recesses, with beaded angles. In the
south wall was a fireplace, probably a garderobe, like that below. In the
north-east angle, filled up like that below by a short cross-wall, is a door
two northern angles. The keep has a basement and three upper floors, of
which the uppermost, if not an addition, has been recast. The walls are 11
feet thick at the base, and at least 10 feet at the rampart level. The parapet is
gone. There is no external set-off. In the centre of each face, and near the
top, are three or four bold corbels, which evidently carried a short
machicolation; and in the angles, near the top, are several cruciform loops,
slightly fantailed at the top and bottom, and with lateral arms ending in
oillets, much resembling those at Kenilworth. Some of these are the lower
half of those of the turrets, which, with the parapet, were standing in 1775.
At the upper part of the south-eastern angle the wall is corbelled out 12
inches for a breadth of 15 feet on the southern, and rather less on the
eastern, face. This is to give a little more space to a mural oratory, which
has a loop on the south face, and a small trefoil-headed window towards the
east, clear of the forebuilding. On the north face, near the east pilaster, a
vertical line of six loops shows the presence of a well-stair from the first
floor. The four lower loops have round heads; the two upper have square
heads, and are probably later.
The basement is at the ground level. It has splayed loops to the north,
west, and south; and in the east side is a recess with parallel sides, and a
trace of a rebate of a doorway. This, if original, must have led into a cell
below the forebuilding, as at Rochester; but it may be a Decorated insertion.
It is nearly covered up with rubbish. In the north-east angle, which has been
filled up with a short wall, is a small door opening into a bent passage,
which now leads into the open air, at where was the foot of the great
entrance-staircase. There may always have been a cell here, but the cross-
wall and the outer door are not original. In the west end of the north wall is
another recess opening into a garderobe chamber, 5 feet long by 3 feet
broad, and original. This basement floor has had a vaulted and ribbed roof,
springing from corbels at the angles, and from four others, in the centre of
each side. There was, in 1775, a central pier. As at Richmond, this vault was
an insertion replacing timber. The basement was about 13 feet high.
The first floor is 23 feet square. It has round-headed window-openings to
the north and west, in round-headed recesses, with beaded angles. In the
south wall was a fireplace, probably a garderobe, like that below. In the
north-east angle, filled up like that below by a short cross-wall, is a door
Page 351
opening on a well-stair, which occupies that angle, and ascends to the roof.
The east wall has been in some measure rebuilt, recently. In it may be seen
parts of a large Decorated doorway, evidently inserted to give a direct
entrance to the chamber. This floor has had an arcade against its walls, of
which traces remain on the south and west sides. The arcade had slender
piers and trefoiled arches. It is unusual to find so ornate a room in the first,
or, indeed, any floor in a Norman keep: it must have more resembled a
chapter-house than a private chamber. The chapel at Castle Rising was so
arcaded, and those at York, and in the curtain at Richmond. This floor was
about 15 feet high, and was covered by the joists and floor of the room
above.
The second floor has round-headed recesses, beaded at the angles, for the
windows, in the north and west sides; and a flue, now laid open, occupies
the south side. In the east wall is the original entrance,—a plain round-
headed arch of 6 feet opening, with a chamfered rebate for an exterior door.
There was no grate. Close north of this is a small door entering an oblique
passage, which opened, as at Middleham and Rochester, upon the turret
over the outer entrance of the forebuilding. The well-stair has no direct
opening into this floor, whatever may have been the case before the
alterations. There seems to be, as below, a garderobe in the north-west
angle.
With this floor the original keep seems to have ended. There is now,
however, a third floor, which, if not altogether new, has been remodelled.
The walls are very thick, and the four angles within are filled up with short
walls, converting the chamber into an octagon, or rather into a square with
the angles taken off. One of these fillings-up, that to the north-east, is
carried down the whole way. The other three are confined to the top floor,
and rest upon brackets. This floor had a large recess and a window in each
of the four main faces, of which that to the west is segmental and ribbed.
These recesses are now quite inaccessible; but it would appear, from the
thickness of the wall, and from certain square apertures outside, that they
communicate on the west side with mural chambers. In the north-west angle
is a very remarkable fireplace of about 9 feet opening, with a perfectly flat
platband, composed of thirteen stones joggled together. This is a very fine
example of this kind of work, and it stands quite unaltered. In the opposite,
or south-eastern angle, is a shallow-pointed recess, and in it a square-
The east wall has been in some measure rebuilt, recently. In it may be seen
parts of a large Decorated doorway, evidently inserted to give a direct
entrance to the chamber. This floor has had an arcade against its walls, of
which traces remain on the south and west sides. The arcade had slender
piers and trefoiled arches. It is unusual to find so ornate a room in the first,
or, indeed, any floor in a Norman keep: it must have more resembled a
chapter-house than a private chamber. The chapel at Castle Rising was so
arcaded, and those at York, and in the curtain at Richmond. This floor was
about 15 feet high, and was covered by the joists and floor of the room
above.
The second floor has round-headed recesses, beaded at the angles, for the
windows, in the north and west sides; and a flue, now laid open, occupies
the south side. In the east wall is the original entrance,—a plain round-
headed arch of 6 feet opening, with a chamfered rebate for an exterior door.
There was no grate. Close north of this is a small door entering an oblique
passage, which opened, as at Middleham and Rochester, upon the turret
over the outer entrance of the forebuilding. The well-stair has no direct
opening into this floor, whatever may have been the case before the
alterations. There seems to be, as below, a garderobe in the north-west
angle.
With this floor the original keep seems to have ended. There is now,
however, a third floor, which, if not altogether new, has been remodelled.
The walls are very thick, and the four angles within are filled up with short
walls, converting the chamber into an octagon, or rather into a square with
the angles taken off. One of these fillings-up, that to the north-east, is
carried down the whole way. The other three are confined to the top floor,
and rest upon brackets. This floor had a large recess and a window in each
of the four main faces, of which that to the west is segmental and ribbed.
These recesses are now quite inaccessible; but it would appear, from the
thickness of the wall, and from certain square apertures outside, that they
communicate on the west side with mural chambers. In the north-west angle
is a very remarkable fireplace of about 9 feet opening, with a perfectly flat
platband, composed of thirteen stones joggled together. This is a very fine
example of this kind of work, and it stands quite unaltered. In the opposite,
or south-eastern angle, is a shallow-pointed recess, and in it a square-
Page 352
headed doorway, which opens into the oratory. The window recess in the
south wall differs from the rest. Its arch was high-pointed, and moulded
with deep reduplicated bands, with half-shafts with bell capitals; no doubt
Decorated, but of Early English character. From the east jamb of this recess
a second passage opens into the oratory, and this was probably the principal
entrance to it. The oratory is seen from below to be vaulted and groined. It
occupies the south-eastern angle of the building.
KEEP, VERTICAL SECTION.
south wall differs from the rest. Its arch was high-pointed, and moulded
with deep reduplicated bands, with half-shafts with bell capitals; no doubt
Decorated, but of Early English character. From the east jamb of this recess
a second passage opens into the oratory, and this was probably the principal
entrance to it. The oratory is seen from below to be vaulted and groined. It
occupies the south-eastern angle of the building.
KEEP, VERTICAL SECTION.
Page 353
The east face of the keep was covered by the Forebuilding, which
evidently contained a straight staircase, which rose from the north-east
corner of the keep, and ascended to the main doorway on the second-floor
level. This doorway, as at Middleham, is near the south end of the wall, but,
notwithstanding, the steps must have begun above the ground level, to
reach, without undue steepness, so considerable a height. The wall has been
so much injured, and so freely repaired, that the marks of the stairs are no
longer visible, but a toothing and some springing stones, as for an arch,
seem to show that the staircase rose from the north-east angle, under a
covered way or low tower, the battlements of which were evidently reached
by the oblique passage still seen above in the wall, as at Middleham and
Rochester. Below the level of the original doorway are traces of a larger and
more lofty doorway, in the ornate Decorated style,—evidently an insertion.
This would give direct passage into the first floor of the keep, and was
probably inserted when the arcading was introduced, and this converted into
the main apartment. There are other toothings and roughnesses in the wall,
indicating various alterations. The forebuilding was about 12 feet broad,
and contained a basement and two floors, as shown by the openings in the
south wall, which are, near the ground, a loop; above it, a small window;
and above that a garderobe, corbelled out upon two heavy blocks upon the
south wall. Above the line of roof of the forebuilding is to be seen the east
window of the oratory, and near it a cruciform loop.
evidently contained a straight staircase, which rose from the north-east
corner of the keep, and ascended to the main doorway on the second-floor
level. This doorway, as at Middleham, is near the south end of the wall, but,
notwithstanding, the steps must have begun above the ground level, to
reach, without undue steepness, so considerable a height. The wall has been
so much injured, and so freely repaired, that the marks of the stairs are no
longer visible, but a toothing and some springing stones, as for an arch,
seem to show that the staircase rose from the north-east angle, under a
covered way or low tower, the battlements of which were evidently reached
by the oblique passage still seen above in the wall, as at Middleham and
Rochester. Below the level of the original doorway are traces of a larger and
more lofty doorway, in the ornate Decorated style,—evidently an insertion.
This would give direct passage into the first floor of the keep, and was
probably inserted when the arcading was introduced, and this converted into
the main apartment. There are other toothings and roughnesses in the wall,
indicating various alterations. The forebuilding was about 12 feet broad,
and contained a basement and two floors, as shown by the openings in the
south wall, which are, near the ground, a loop; above it, a small window;
and above that a garderobe, corbelled out upon two heavy blocks upon the
south wall. Above the line of roof of the forebuilding is to be seen the east
window of the oratory, and near it a cruciform loop.
Page 354
KEEP, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.
Unfortunately for the close examination of this very curious keep, the
upper part is inaccessible, and ladders of sufficient length are not readily to
be procured. The architectural history of the castle may be inferred from its
details, so far as these are visible. It is evident that the original fortress was
a late Norman keep, and it must have been placed within an enceinte pretty
closely corresponding to that now seen, and which skirts the edge of the
ditch. Of this supposed original enceinte wall, as well as of the domestic
buildings and gatehouse, which must have been present in some form or
other within it, there remain no very certain traces. The keep, judging from
internal evidence, and probably the ditches were the work of Robert de
Vipont, very early in the thirteenth century.
In the Decorated period the castle underwent great alterations. The keep
was probably raised a story, and an oratory included in the new work. The
basement was vaulted, the first floor arcaded, and the forebuilding so
altered as to admit of an entrance on that floor. All the rest of the castle,
gatehouses, domestic buildings, and the whole of the enceinte wall belong
to one general period, and are probably the work of Roger de Clifford, the
first of his race who held this property, and the husband of Isabel de Vipont,
its heiress, in the reign of Edward I. Usually, when a Norman fortress was
Unfortunately for the close examination of this very curious keep, the
upper part is inaccessible, and ladders of sufficient length are not readily to
be procured. The architectural history of the castle may be inferred from its
details, so far as these are visible. It is evident that the original fortress was
a late Norman keep, and it must have been placed within an enceinte pretty
closely corresponding to that now seen, and which skirts the edge of the
ditch. Of this supposed original enceinte wall, as well as of the domestic
buildings and gatehouse, which must have been present in some form or
other within it, there remain no very certain traces. The keep, judging from
internal evidence, and probably the ditches were the work of Robert de
Vipont, very early in the thirteenth century.
In the Decorated period the castle underwent great alterations. The keep
was probably raised a story, and an oratory included in the new work. The
basement was vaulted, the first floor arcaded, and the forebuilding so
altered as to admit of an entrance on that floor. All the rest of the castle,
gatehouses, domestic buildings, and the whole of the enceinte wall belong
to one general period, and are probably the work of Roger de Clifford, the
first of his race who held this property, and the husband of Isabel de Vipont,
its heiress, in the reign of Edward I. Usually, when a Norman fortress was
Page 355
remodelled in the Edwardian period, the keep was neglected, and left in its
original isolation; here, however, it was decided to turn the keep to account,
and to ornament its principal chambers, and connect them with the suite of
rooms in the upper floor of the gatehouse.
The drawing represents a section of the keep east and west, looking
south. Something of the various additions is here shown, and the springings
of the vault of the basement.
The exterior view of the keep is taken from the south-west quarter, and
shows, above, the projection for the oratory, and below and beyond it the
end wall of the demolished forebuilding. On the left is seen the river
gateway of the entrance.
There are some peculiarities of detail in this castle which need further
investigation. The large windows of the first and second floors of the keep
are original; but the half-piers and bell-caps in the exterior jambs look much
later, and may be a part of the Decorated additions. It is said that the
buildings against the east wall received some alterations from another
Roger de Clifford, grandson of the former. It is curious that walls so thick as
those of the keep, and of such good material, should have been left solid,
for the most part unpierced by the chambers and passages so much affected
by the Norman architects. It is also to be observed that the curtain wall is
but scantily furnished with flanking defences. Countess Anne mentions “the
Tower of Leaguer,” and “the Pagan Tower,” and “the Greystoke State
Chamber,” in Brougham Castle.
original isolation; here, however, it was decided to turn the keep to account,
and to ornament its principal chambers, and connect them with the suite of
rooms in the upper floor of the gatehouse.
The drawing represents a section of the keep east and west, looking
south. Something of the various additions is here shown, and the springings
of the vault of the basement.
The exterior view of the keep is taken from the south-west quarter, and
shows, above, the projection for the oratory, and below and beyond it the
end wall of the demolished forebuilding. On the left is seen the river
gateway of the entrance.
There are some peculiarities of detail in this castle which need further
investigation. The large windows of the first and second floors of the keep
are original; but the half-piers and bell-caps in the exterior jambs look much
later, and may be a part of the Decorated additions. It is said that the
buildings against the east wall received some alterations from another
Roger de Clifford, grandson of the former. It is curious that walls so thick as
those of the keep, and of such good material, should have been left solid,
for the most part unpierced by the chambers and passages so much affected
by the Norman architects. It is also to be observed that the curtain wall is
but scantily furnished with flanking defences. Countess Anne mentions “the
Tower of Leaguer,” and “the Pagan Tower,” and “the Greystoke State
Chamber,” in Brougham Castle.
Page 356
THE CASTLE OF BUILTH, IN BRECKNOCKSHIRE.
THE name of Builth, borne at this time by a considerable town, and by a
Hundred of the county of Brecknock, is very ancient. As, like Brecon, the
town is placed in an open valley, accessible without much difficulty to an
enemy from the east, it has suffered from invasion from a very early period,
and to these and similar attacks are to be attributed various strongholds,
both of earth and masonry, of which the remains are abundant upon the
marches of England and Wales, and in such tracts of the latter territory as
either Saxon or Norman, having overrun, thought it worth while to retain.
The construction of Offa’s Dyke, in the eighth century, must have been
preceded by many years of conquest, and the establishment of many
English strongholds throughout the annexed district, and probably also
beyond it. Nothing short of a present inability to rise would have kept the
Welsh quiet during the construction of such a work, or have forced them to
accept, even passively, a limit which cut off a large part of their fairest
territory. The fortresses of Builth and Brecon, which resemble in general
character those of known English origin elsewhere, were probably
advanced posts thrown up either during the wars which preceded the dyke,
or to aid the aggressions which followed it. The plan of construction leads
rather to the latter conclusion, and points to the ninth or early part of the
tenth century.
However this may be, it is certain that when Bernard Newmarch invaded
Brecknock, towards the end of the eleventh century, he found the
earthworks of Brecon and Builth already existing, and occupied them, as
was usual, by works of a Norman character. Probably these were at first of
timber, for a structure of masonry required time and peace, and generally
tradition has imputed the oldest Norman military buildings in Wales to the
immediate successors of the conquerors, rather than to the conquerors
themselves. Where the age can be safely inferred, either from the design of
the building or from its ornament, it is generally found to be of very late
Norman, verging upon the early English period.
THE name of Builth, borne at this time by a considerable town, and by a
Hundred of the county of Brecknock, is very ancient. As, like Brecon, the
town is placed in an open valley, accessible without much difficulty to an
enemy from the east, it has suffered from invasion from a very early period,
and to these and similar attacks are to be attributed various strongholds,
both of earth and masonry, of which the remains are abundant upon the
marches of England and Wales, and in such tracts of the latter territory as
either Saxon or Norman, having overrun, thought it worth while to retain.
The construction of Offa’s Dyke, in the eighth century, must have been
preceded by many years of conquest, and the establishment of many
English strongholds throughout the annexed district, and probably also
beyond it. Nothing short of a present inability to rise would have kept the
Welsh quiet during the construction of such a work, or have forced them to
accept, even passively, a limit which cut off a large part of their fairest
territory. The fortresses of Builth and Brecon, which resemble in general
character those of known English origin elsewhere, were probably
advanced posts thrown up either during the wars which preceded the dyke,
or to aid the aggressions which followed it. The plan of construction leads
rather to the latter conclusion, and points to the ninth or early part of the
tenth century.
However this may be, it is certain that when Bernard Newmarch invaded
Brecknock, towards the end of the eleventh century, he found the
earthworks of Brecon and Builth already existing, and occupied them, as
was usual, by works of a Norman character. Probably these were at first of
timber, for a structure of masonry required time and peace, and generally
tradition has imputed the oldest Norman military buildings in Wales to the
immediate successors of the conquerors, rather than to the conquerors
themselves. Where the age can be safely inferred, either from the design of
the building or from its ornament, it is generally found to be of very late
Norman, verging upon the early English period.
Page 357
Newmarch was succeeded by Milo Fitz Walter, who married his
daughter. He was created Earl of Hereford by the Empress Maud, in 1140,
and received from her the moat, or more probably the “mote” and castle of
that city. His sons died childless, Mahel, the last of them, having been killed
by the falling of a stone from Bronllys tower. Builth was inherited by his
sister Berta, who married Philip de Braose, who, indeed, is said already to
have possessed himself of that territory, and to have afterwards married its
lawful heiress, as Newmarch had married the Welsh Nest, by way of
precaution.
Their son, William de Braose, also a powerful baron in Devon, flourished
in the reigns of Henry II., Richard, and John, and died in exile in 1210. His
brother Giles, Bishop of Hereford, succeeded, and, dying in 1215, was
followed by his brother Reginald. In his time occurs the earliest mention of
the castle. In 1219, 4 Henry III., the Sheriff of Gloucestershire is directed to
give immediate aid to Reginald de Braose “ad castrum suum de Buetto
firmandum et fossatum et trencheyas ibidem faciendas contra inimicos
nostros.” Also 12 September, 1223, 7 Henry III., the king directs all the
sheriffs of England, excepting those of Stafford, Salop, Worcester,
Gloucester, and Hereford, who probably had already, being near, discharged
their duty, to raise men and march to Gloucester, the reason being the king’s
sure information that Reynold de Braose was besieged in his castle of
Builth by Llewelyn and a multitude of armed men. What the result was is
unknown, but some years later, in July, 1260, after De Braose’s death, when
the castle was in charge of Roger de Mortimer, it was besieged and taken by
Llewelyn. Roger was in London, and, as it was his duty to have been at his
post, he had a regular remission in form, stating that he was attending
Parliament by special precept. It is stated therein that he held the castle “ex
ballio” by deputation from Prince Edward. In August, Llewelyn was still in
possession, and there remains a precept on the subject, directed to Richard
de Clare and others.
Reginald de Braose, who was lord during the siege of 1223, is generally
stated to have died in 1221, which seems disproved by Rymer’s record. He
died, however, about that time, and was followed by William his son, who,
in 1229, was hanged, according to the Welsh, by Llewelyn. On his death,
leaving only daughters, the Crown took the castles, and they were granted
daughter. He was created Earl of Hereford by the Empress Maud, in 1140,
and received from her the moat, or more probably the “mote” and castle of
that city. His sons died childless, Mahel, the last of them, having been killed
by the falling of a stone from Bronllys tower. Builth was inherited by his
sister Berta, who married Philip de Braose, who, indeed, is said already to
have possessed himself of that territory, and to have afterwards married its
lawful heiress, as Newmarch had married the Welsh Nest, by way of
precaution.
Their son, William de Braose, also a powerful baron in Devon, flourished
in the reigns of Henry II., Richard, and John, and died in exile in 1210. His
brother Giles, Bishop of Hereford, succeeded, and, dying in 1215, was
followed by his brother Reginald. In his time occurs the earliest mention of
the castle. In 1219, 4 Henry III., the Sheriff of Gloucestershire is directed to
give immediate aid to Reginald de Braose “ad castrum suum de Buetto
firmandum et fossatum et trencheyas ibidem faciendas contra inimicos
nostros.” Also 12 September, 1223, 7 Henry III., the king directs all the
sheriffs of England, excepting those of Stafford, Salop, Worcester,
Gloucester, and Hereford, who probably had already, being near, discharged
their duty, to raise men and march to Gloucester, the reason being the king’s
sure information that Reynold de Braose was besieged in his castle of
Builth by Llewelyn and a multitude of armed men. What the result was is
unknown, but some years later, in July, 1260, after De Braose’s death, when
the castle was in charge of Roger de Mortimer, it was besieged and taken by
Llewelyn. Roger was in London, and, as it was his duty to have been at his
post, he had a regular remission in form, stating that he was attending
Parliament by special precept. It is stated therein that he held the castle “ex
ballio” by deputation from Prince Edward. In August, Llewelyn was still in
possession, and there remains a precept on the subject, directed to Richard
de Clare and others.
Reginald de Braose, who was lord during the siege of 1223, is generally
stated to have died in 1221, which seems disproved by Rymer’s record. He
died, however, about that time, and was followed by William his son, who,
in 1229, was hanged, according to the Welsh, by Llewelyn. On his death,
leaving only daughters, the Crown took the castles, and they were granted
Page 358
to Prince Edward, who held them in 1254, when his father renewed the
grant.
5 Edward I., some question arose about certain tythes held by the prior
and convent of Brecon under William, William his son, ... and Reginald de
Braose, Lords of Builth, and it appears from a later entry, 13 Edward I., that
it was their duty to serve a chapel or chantry within the castle, then called
“the King’s Castle.” 25 Edward I., John Giffard was custos, and his
allowance was reduced by the treasury because it was more than was usual.
17 Edward II., 1324, a survey was taken of the castle for the Crown. The
castle yard and curtilage were worth per annum 12d., and there were 40
acres in demesne of arable at 3d. per acre, total 10s. Also 10 acres of
meadow at 12d., total 10s. Also the “communitas patriæ,” hangers on
outside the vill, paid the king every second year, for all services and annual
rents, 10 cows or 20 marcs in money at the lord’s pleasure, that is, £1. 6s.
8d. for each cow, its money-value at that time. Rents of assize in Lanveir
70s., probably from 75 burgesses. A ferry 4s. per annum. The land of
Talevan, in the king’s hands, 2s. The land of Tyr Maukyn, 2s. Pannage of
hogs, 20s. The king had there four mills, each at 10s. No villenage there. All
pleas and perquisites of the court merchant in Lanveir 57s. per annum.
Pleas and payments of the courts “patriæ,” 17s. Ammobrages, 13s. 4d. No
royalties, villenage, demesne, or other outgoings. No profits accruing to the
king in Builth save the above.
Llanfair is the town of Builth, its Welsh name being Llanfair-ym-Muallt,
or St. Mary’s, Builth. Ammobrage is thought by Spelman to be the same
with Chevage, a poll-tax paid by villeins to their lord. Jones, the Brecknock
historian, gives it a Welsh etymology, and makes it a sort of excise.
The importance of these frontier castles naturally ceased after the
settlement of Wales by 3 Edward I., and the Crown no longer cared to retain
them. 9 Edward III., Builth Castle was vested in Eubolo le Strange and
Alesia his wife, and 14 Edward III. Thomas de Bradestan, Banneret, had
“Thlanver” Castle, probably “Blaenlleveny,” and the Lordship of Builth.
16 Edward III., 1342–3, Gilbert Talbot, Justiciary of South Wales, was
directed to raise levies in the divisions of Builth, Ewias-Lacy, and Ewias-
Harold, and similar precepts were issued in 1367.
grant.
5 Edward I., some question arose about certain tythes held by the prior
and convent of Brecon under William, William his son, ... and Reginald de
Braose, Lords of Builth, and it appears from a later entry, 13 Edward I., that
it was their duty to serve a chapel or chantry within the castle, then called
“the King’s Castle.” 25 Edward I., John Giffard was custos, and his
allowance was reduced by the treasury because it was more than was usual.
17 Edward II., 1324, a survey was taken of the castle for the Crown. The
castle yard and curtilage were worth per annum 12d., and there were 40
acres in demesne of arable at 3d. per acre, total 10s. Also 10 acres of
meadow at 12d., total 10s. Also the “communitas patriæ,” hangers on
outside the vill, paid the king every second year, for all services and annual
rents, 10 cows or 20 marcs in money at the lord’s pleasure, that is, £1. 6s.
8d. for each cow, its money-value at that time. Rents of assize in Lanveir
70s., probably from 75 burgesses. A ferry 4s. per annum. The land of
Talevan, in the king’s hands, 2s. The land of Tyr Maukyn, 2s. Pannage of
hogs, 20s. The king had there four mills, each at 10s. No villenage there. All
pleas and perquisites of the court merchant in Lanveir 57s. per annum.
Pleas and payments of the courts “patriæ,” 17s. Ammobrages, 13s. 4d. No
royalties, villenage, demesne, or other outgoings. No profits accruing to the
king in Builth save the above.
Llanfair is the town of Builth, its Welsh name being Llanfair-ym-Muallt,
or St. Mary’s, Builth. Ammobrage is thought by Spelman to be the same
with Chevage, a poll-tax paid by villeins to their lord. Jones, the Brecknock
historian, gives it a Welsh etymology, and makes it a sort of excise.
The importance of these frontier castles naturally ceased after the
settlement of Wales by 3 Edward I., and the Crown no longer cared to retain
them. 9 Edward III., Builth Castle was vested in Eubolo le Strange and
Alesia his wife, and 14 Edward III. Thomas de Bradestan, Banneret, had
“Thlanver” Castle, probably “Blaenlleveny,” and the Lordship of Builth.
16 Edward III., 1342–3, Gilbert Talbot, Justiciary of South Wales, was
directed to raise levies in the divisions of Builth, Ewias-Lacy, and Ewias-
Harold, and similar precepts were issued in 1367.
Page 359
34 Edward III., 1360–1, Roger de Mortimer held the castle and cantred of
Builth, and 5 Richard II., Edward Earl of March and Philippa his wife held
Bewolthe or Beult Castle, as did Earl Roger, their successor, 22 Richard II.
On the attainder of the Mortimers the castle fell to the Crown, and so
remained till granted away by Charles II., since which it has passed through
many hands.
Regard being had to the position of the castle upon an exposed and very
dangerous frontier, it is not surprising that its walls and towers were
planned with some skill, and executed with great passive strength. But of
the works in masonry, scarce a trace now remains above ground, and the
site of a fortress which could hold Llewelyn and his armed Welshmen in
check, probably for several weeks, is now indicated by heaps of earth of a
rather remarkable character, and which, from their position and size, make a
feature in the outline of the town from whatever point beheld.
Builth, and 5 Richard II., Edward Earl of March and Philippa his wife held
Bewolthe or Beult Castle, as did Earl Roger, their successor, 22 Richard II.
On the attainder of the Mortimers the castle fell to the Crown, and so
remained till granted away by Charles II., since which it has passed through
many hands.
Regard being had to the position of the castle upon an exposed and very
dangerous frontier, it is not surprising that its walls and towers were
planned with some skill, and executed with great passive strength. But of
the works in masonry, scarce a trace now remains above ground, and the
site of a fortress which could hold Llewelyn and his armed Welshmen in
check, probably for several weeks, is now indicated by heaps of earth of a
rather remarkable character, and which, from their position and size, make a
feature in the outline of the town from whatever point beheld.
Page 360
J. H. Le Keux, Durham.
THE CASTLE OF BUILTH.
Moreover these earthworks, which have survived the masonry that for so
many centuries crowned their summits, are, it is evident, of far earlier date
than the Norman work, and have only in these latter times resumed much of
the appearance which they originally presented.
For they resemble in their general features and in their details, those
earthworks nearer to, or within the English border, as Wigmore, Richard’s
Castle, Kilpeck, and Ewias-Harold, which again resemble those of
Warwick, Leicester, Bedford, and Towcester, the dates and authors of which
THE CASTLE OF BUILTH.
Moreover these earthworks, which have survived the masonry that for so
many centuries crowned their summits, are, it is evident, of far earlier date
than the Norman work, and have only in these latter times resumed much of
the appearance which they originally presented.
For they resemble in their general features and in their details, those
earthworks nearer to, or within the English border, as Wigmore, Richard’s
Castle, Kilpeck, and Ewias-Harold, which again resemble those of
Warwick, Leicester, Bedford, and Towcester, the dates and authors of which
Page 361
are on record, and all of which, wherever situated, are quite unlike the
grand hill-camps so common on the border, and usually attributed to the
British.
Hence a peculiar interest attaches to works such as these at Builth. Not
only as regards the English part of the community is there the presumption,
amounting almost to demonstration, that they were the work of their proper
ancestors, but, what is of interest to all, it is possible to fix an approximate
date to their construction, which is by no means the case with the larger and
probably older hill-camps.
The town of Builth stands in the north-eastern quarter of Brecknock, in
the Hundred of its name, just upon a bold curve of the Wye, which,
escaping from the deep valley in which it descends from Rhayader Gwy,
and about to plunge into that by which it reaches the more open country
near Glasbury and Hay, here traverses a broad expanse of mead overlooked
by the town, to which it not improbably gave origin.
On the eastern edge of the town, and, like it, a hundred yards above and
as many distant from the river, is placed the castle. It commands a
considerable view towards the north, and was within an easy ride of Payn’s
Castle and other fortresses upon the middle Wye and the Usk. It stands upon
a bank falling steeply towards the north of the river, and, though higher on
all sides than the adjacent ground, is approached by an easy ascent from the
south, on which side was its entrance.
The castle occupied a plot of ground nearly circular, being about 180
yards north and south, by 190 yards east and west. Its principal feature is a
conical mound, table topped, wholly artificial, 60 feet diameter at the top,
200 feet diameter from the centre of the circumscribing ditch, and from the
bottom of that ditch 60 feet high. The ditch is carried all round from 100 to
120 feet broad, being narrowest towards the north, the side naturally strong.
For about four-fifths of its circumference to the south, the mound is covered
by two curved platforms, convex towards the field, and concave towards the
rear. That on the south-east is the larger, and from 60 to 90 feet broad and
400 feet long. That on the west is 30 to 35 feet broad and 200 feet long.
They are separated by a deep trench about 100 feet broad, which connects
the inner with the outer ditch. At their other or northern extremities they end
more gradually, but leave the northern front of the mound uncovered. These
grand hill-camps so common on the border, and usually attributed to the
British.
Hence a peculiar interest attaches to works such as these at Builth. Not
only as regards the English part of the community is there the presumption,
amounting almost to demonstration, that they were the work of their proper
ancestors, but, what is of interest to all, it is possible to fix an approximate
date to their construction, which is by no means the case with the larger and
probably older hill-camps.
The town of Builth stands in the north-eastern quarter of Brecknock, in
the Hundred of its name, just upon a bold curve of the Wye, which,
escaping from the deep valley in which it descends from Rhayader Gwy,
and about to plunge into that by which it reaches the more open country
near Glasbury and Hay, here traverses a broad expanse of mead overlooked
by the town, to which it not improbably gave origin.
On the eastern edge of the town, and, like it, a hundred yards above and
as many distant from the river, is placed the castle. It commands a
considerable view towards the north, and was within an easy ride of Payn’s
Castle and other fortresses upon the middle Wye and the Usk. It stands upon
a bank falling steeply towards the north of the river, and, though higher on
all sides than the adjacent ground, is approached by an easy ascent from the
south, on which side was its entrance.
The castle occupied a plot of ground nearly circular, being about 180
yards north and south, by 190 yards east and west. Its principal feature is a
conical mound, table topped, wholly artificial, 60 feet diameter at the top,
200 feet diameter from the centre of the circumscribing ditch, and from the
bottom of that ditch 60 feet high. The ditch is carried all round from 100 to
120 feet broad, being narrowest towards the north, the side naturally strong.
For about four-fifths of its circumference to the south, the mound is covered
by two curved platforms, convex towards the field, and concave towards the
rear. That on the south-east is the larger, and from 60 to 90 feet broad and
400 feet long. That on the west is 30 to 35 feet broad and 200 feet long.
They are separated by a deep trench about 100 feet broad, which connects
the inner with the outer ditch. At their other or northern extremities they end
more gradually, but leave the northern front of the mound uncovered. These
Page 362
platforms are in their rear about 30 feet above the bottom of the ditch of
which they form the counterscarp, and consequently about 30 feet below
the top of the mound. They slope gently outwards. The western platform
has along its inner edge a narrow steep bank about 6 feet high. This could
scarcely have carried a palisade, there being no space for a walk behind it.
It looks more as though it had been thrown up during a siege, to cover those
who proposed to storm the mound.
Outside and in front of these platforms is a ditch of from 70 to 100 feet
broad, and 15 to 25 feet deep. It covers the southern four-fifths of the work,
but, towards the north, where the platforms cease, it is continued into and
forms part of the inner ditch.
Finally, encircling the whole, is a bank upon the edge of the outer ditch,
of variable height and thickness, sometimes narrow and from 5 to 6 feet
high, in other parts expanded into a platform of from 12 to 20 feet. This
bank subsides into the natural slope of the ground, which is very steep
towards the north only.
Although but one small fragment of masonry remains above ground,
there are traces of walls where the foundations have been dug up, and here
and there are heaps which probably cover the remains of towers. There was
evidently a central tower or keep, circular or many sided, covering the top
of the mound, and probably, like Bronllys, of early English or late Norman
date. The north slope of the mound, covered only by the ditch and bank,
formed part of the enceinte, as at Berkhampstead, and from the keep
descended eastwards a curtain, of which a part remains, which crossed the
ditch, and evidently was carried along the platform so as to include it. There
are upon it two small mounds, which seem to have been towers flanking the
entrance. How this curtain was continued, whether it was confined to the
east platform or whether it traversed the cross ditch, and included the west
platform, is uncertain. In either case it must have finally turned inwards,
crossed the inner ditch, and reascended the mound to abut upon the keep
tower. The castle seems to have been composed of a keep and a single ward,
and probably owed much of its strength against a sudden attack to its
contracted area. The ditches are far above any source of water from
adjacent ground. They seem, however, to have been more or less wet,
probably from the rain water. The cross ditch and adjacent parts of the
which they form the counterscarp, and consequently about 30 feet below
the top of the mound. They slope gently outwards. The western platform
has along its inner edge a narrow steep bank about 6 feet high. This could
scarcely have carried a palisade, there being no space for a walk behind it.
It looks more as though it had been thrown up during a siege, to cover those
who proposed to storm the mound.
Outside and in front of these platforms is a ditch of from 70 to 100 feet
broad, and 15 to 25 feet deep. It covers the southern four-fifths of the work,
but, towards the north, where the platforms cease, it is continued into and
forms part of the inner ditch.
Finally, encircling the whole, is a bank upon the edge of the outer ditch,
of variable height and thickness, sometimes narrow and from 5 to 6 feet
high, in other parts expanded into a platform of from 12 to 20 feet. This
bank subsides into the natural slope of the ground, which is very steep
towards the north only.
Although but one small fragment of masonry remains above ground,
there are traces of walls where the foundations have been dug up, and here
and there are heaps which probably cover the remains of towers. There was
evidently a central tower or keep, circular or many sided, covering the top
of the mound, and probably, like Bronllys, of early English or late Norman
date. The north slope of the mound, covered only by the ditch and bank,
formed part of the enceinte, as at Berkhampstead, and from the keep
descended eastwards a curtain, of which a part remains, which crossed the
ditch, and evidently was carried along the platform so as to include it. There
are upon it two small mounds, which seem to have been towers flanking the
entrance. How this curtain was continued, whether it was confined to the
east platform or whether it traversed the cross ditch, and included the west
platform, is uncertain. In either case it must have finally turned inwards,
crossed the inner ditch, and reascended the mound to abut upon the keep
tower. The castle seems to have been composed of a keep and a single ward,
and probably owed much of its strength against a sudden attack to its
contracted area. The ditches are far above any source of water from
adjacent ground. They seem, however, to have been more or less wet,
probably from the rain water. The cross ditch and adjacent parts of the
Page 363
ditches are still boggy, and would form a small pool, but for a drain which
has been cut in the outer bank.
The approach seems to have lain through the town of Builth along an
existing road, and to have reached the outer barrier where the ditch is
partially filled up on the eastern side; thence crossing the platform, where
there seems to have been a causeway across the inner ditch, and no doubt
from it a flight of steps led up the mound.
has been cut in the outer bank.
The approach seems to have lain through the town of Builth along an
existing road, and to have reached the outer barrier where the ditch is
partially filled up on the eastern side; thence crossing the platform, where
there seems to have been a causeway across the inner ditch, and no doubt
from it a flight of steps led up the mound.
Page 364
CAERNARVON CASTLE.
OF the three greatest military works executed by Edward I. in Wales,
Caernarvon is undoubtedly the chief; nor, indeed, is there any castle in
Britain laid out with greater uniformity of design, or in which the resources
of the military engineer are more skilfully set forth. Moreover, it has
suffered less than any other of equal magnitude from violence, or natural
decay, or the rapacity of local builders. Its towers, walls, and gatehouses,
stand as firm and free from injury as when they came from the hand of the
mason. Floors and roofs, indeed, have been removed, and the interior
lodgings, hall, and chapel, are wanting, but their removal, if it took place,
has been effected with so much care that it is uncertain whether they were
ever erected, and whether the toothings and roughnesses of the contiguous
walls were not left with a view to their addition. In these latest days the
Crown, always the owner of the pile, has shown unusual zeal for its
conservation. Mr. Salvin, than whom no man could more skilfully restore
an ancient castle, was consulted upon its necessary repairs, and Mr. Turner,
as deputy-constable, watches over the fabric with no common care.
The castle and town of Caernarvon are placed upon the right or northern
bank of the Seiont, a river known to fame by the construction upon its
meadow of the Roman Segontium, at no great distance above the castle,
which, with the town, stands within the junction of the river with the waters
of the Menai Strait, so that two sides of the position are protected, the one
by the river, the other by the sea. Segontium, or Caer Seiont, seems to have
been succeeded by the Welsh camp of Caer-yn-Arvon, so called from its
position upon the shore of Arvon, no longer “dreary Arvon,” but one of the
most charming spots in North Wales.
The town, founded, with the castle, by King Edward, is somewhat of a
parallelogram in plan. It is contained within a curtain wall, strengthened by
ten towers, of which two form the east and west gatehouses, and three cap
the principal angles of the enclosure. They are either cylindrical or half
cylinders, open at the rear.
OF the three greatest military works executed by Edward I. in Wales,
Caernarvon is undoubtedly the chief; nor, indeed, is there any castle in
Britain laid out with greater uniformity of design, or in which the resources
of the military engineer are more skilfully set forth. Moreover, it has
suffered less than any other of equal magnitude from violence, or natural
decay, or the rapacity of local builders. Its towers, walls, and gatehouses,
stand as firm and free from injury as when they came from the hand of the
mason. Floors and roofs, indeed, have been removed, and the interior
lodgings, hall, and chapel, are wanting, but their removal, if it took place,
has been effected with so much care that it is uncertain whether they were
ever erected, and whether the toothings and roughnesses of the contiguous
walls were not left with a view to their addition. In these latest days the
Crown, always the owner of the pile, has shown unusual zeal for its
conservation. Mr. Salvin, than whom no man could more skilfully restore
an ancient castle, was consulted upon its necessary repairs, and Mr. Turner,
as deputy-constable, watches over the fabric with no common care.
The castle and town of Caernarvon are placed upon the right or northern
bank of the Seiont, a river known to fame by the construction upon its
meadow of the Roman Segontium, at no great distance above the castle,
which, with the town, stands within the junction of the river with the waters
of the Menai Strait, so that two sides of the position are protected, the one
by the river, the other by the sea. Segontium, or Caer Seiont, seems to have
been succeeded by the Welsh camp of Caer-yn-Arvon, so called from its
position upon the shore of Arvon, no longer “dreary Arvon,” but one of the
most charming spots in North Wales.
The town, founded, with the castle, by King Edward, is somewhat of a
parallelogram in plan. It is contained within a curtain wall, strengthened by
ten towers, of which two form the east and west gatehouses, and three cap
the principal angles of the enclosure. They are either cylindrical or half
cylinders, open at the rear.
Page 365
The south end of the area is closed by the castle, of which the principal
face is thus towards and within the town. The opposite or southern face
rests upon the Seiont, as does the western, and did, to some extent, the
eastern end. Wilson’s picture, taken in the last century, shows the walls
rising almost from the water’s edge, and the cross ditch before the Queen’s
Gate still open, but at this time a broad quay intervenes between the castle
walls and the river, and of the broad and deep ditch separating the fortress
from the town only a part remains. The ditch was, probably, deep enough to
admit the tidal waters.
The castle somewhat resembles an hourglass in plan, its outline being
governed by the rocky ridge on which it stands, and which lifts it a few feet
above the level of the town. It is in length about 100 yards, and in breadth
from 30 to 40 yards, the narrowest part being at the centre. Its outline is
polygonal, and on each angle is a tower, also polygonal. Of these there are
nine, two of which are double, and form gatehouses. There are also two
smaller towers, also polygonal, in the centre of two of the curtains. The
ground falls rather steeply from the south-east end, but at its lowest is some
feet above the water level.
The main or King’s Gatehouse, a very noble structure, is in the centre of
the town front, and occupies a re-entering angle of the wall. It is broad and
high, with an unusually lofty and ornate archway, in the upper part of which
is a statue of Edward II., who completed the castle, and below this the
recessed gateway. Two bold half-octagons flank the entrance, the approach
to which was by a drawbridge, now superseded by a work in masonry. The
portal is broad and high, vaulted and ribbed, with the usual portcullis
grooves, rebates, and bar holes for doors, and meurtrières in the vault. On
either side is a lodge, an unusually spacious chamber. Both of the flanking
towers are looped, and in that to the right is a mural gallery, with loops
completing the command of the approach. The rear of this right-hand tower
is prolonged into a square building forming the prison tower, in one angle
of which is a well staircase leading to the upper floor of the gatehouse and
its roof. At the foot of this staircase a small portcullised doorway opens
westwards upon the kitchen.
From the Prison Tower a narrow building connected the gatehouse with
the opposite or Exchequer Tower, and thus divided the castle into an eastern
or upper, and a western or lower, ward. A handsome archway pierced this
face is thus towards and within the town. The opposite or southern face
rests upon the Seiont, as does the western, and did, to some extent, the
eastern end. Wilson’s picture, taken in the last century, shows the walls
rising almost from the water’s edge, and the cross ditch before the Queen’s
Gate still open, but at this time a broad quay intervenes between the castle
walls and the river, and of the broad and deep ditch separating the fortress
from the town only a part remains. The ditch was, probably, deep enough to
admit the tidal waters.
The castle somewhat resembles an hourglass in plan, its outline being
governed by the rocky ridge on which it stands, and which lifts it a few feet
above the level of the town. It is in length about 100 yards, and in breadth
from 30 to 40 yards, the narrowest part being at the centre. Its outline is
polygonal, and on each angle is a tower, also polygonal. Of these there are
nine, two of which are double, and form gatehouses. There are also two
smaller towers, also polygonal, in the centre of two of the curtains. The
ground falls rather steeply from the south-east end, but at its lowest is some
feet above the water level.
The main or King’s Gatehouse, a very noble structure, is in the centre of
the town front, and occupies a re-entering angle of the wall. It is broad and
high, with an unusually lofty and ornate archway, in the upper part of which
is a statue of Edward II., who completed the castle, and below this the
recessed gateway. Two bold half-octagons flank the entrance, the approach
to which was by a drawbridge, now superseded by a work in masonry. The
portal is broad and high, vaulted and ribbed, with the usual portcullis
grooves, rebates, and bar holes for doors, and meurtrières in the vault. On
either side is a lodge, an unusually spacious chamber. Both of the flanking
towers are looped, and in that to the right is a mural gallery, with loops
completing the command of the approach. The rear of this right-hand tower
is prolonged into a square building forming the prison tower, in one angle
of which is a well staircase leading to the upper floor of the gatehouse and
its roof. At the foot of this staircase a small portcullised doorway opens
westwards upon the kitchen.
From the Prison Tower a narrow building connected the gatehouse with
the opposite or Exchequer Tower, and thus divided the castle into an eastern
or upper, and a western or lower, ward. A handsome archway pierced this
Page 366
building, and opened from one ward to the other. Building and gatehouse
are gone, but the jambs of one side, with two portcullis grooves, show that
the portal was strong and was ornate.
Besides the King’s Gate the upper ward was entered by a second or
Queen’s Gate, a very remarkable structure, seeing that it is placed at the
highest part of the fortress, and that the cill of its entrance is some 25 feet
above the present ground, and must have been 12 feet or 14 feet more above
the bottom of the now filled-up ditch. How this entrance was approached
does not appear, if by a drawbridge the pier on which it fell must have been
a very lofty structure, and a sort of viaduct must have led up to it. The portal
is vaulted and ribbed, and had a portcullis and gates, but the lateral
chambers do not open from it. The rear of the gatehouse seems not to have
been completed, but close to it, to the west, is the jamb of a small
portcullised gateway, with ornate mouldings. Into what it led is not very
apparent.
The towers, though differing widely in details, are all of one general type,
and probably designed by one hand. Each has a basement at about the
exterior ground level, damp and dark, and only to be reached by a ladder
from the floor above. Possibly these basements were not intended to be
used. They were not vaulted, and have no sewers. Each tower has a first
floor at the court level, and at this level, or a few steps above it, the wall is
pierced all round by a mural gallery, looped to the field and connected with
divers mural chambers and garderobes. The second floor has windows of a
larger opening, as has the third or uppermost. Each floor has a fireplace,
usually a mere opening in the wall, and each is reached by a well staircase,
which begins at the first-floor level and ends in a tall turret which rises
some 20 feet above the roof. From the upper floor a doorway opens out
upon the rampart of the curtain. The floor was all of timber. The roof was
almost flat, having a very slight pitch to a central ridge, and was covered
with lead.
The curtain, everywhere unusually thick and lofty, along the north side
was looped in two stages, showing that it gave support to long ranges of
buildings, probably barracks, with thick walls and very low-pitched lead-
covered roofs. These buildings are wanting, but the towers and curtains are
toothed, to give bond to their walls when built.
are gone, but the jambs of one side, with two portcullis grooves, show that
the portal was strong and was ornate.
Besides the King’s Gate the upper ward was entered by a second or
Queen’s Gate, a very remarkable structure, seeing that it is placed at the
highest part of the fortress, and that the cill of its entrance is some 25 feet
above the present ground, and must have been 12 feet or 14 feet more above
the bottom of the now filled-up ditch. How this entrance was approached
does not appear, if by a drawbridge the pier on which it fell must have been
a very lofty structure, and a sort of viaduct must have led up to it. The portal
is vaulted and ribbed, and had a portcullis and gates, but the lateral
chambers do not open from it. The rear of the gatehouse seems not to have
been completed, but close to it, to the west, is the jamb of a small
portcullised gateway, with ornate mouldings. Into what it led is not very
apparent.
The towers, though differing widely in details, are all of one general type,
and probably designed by one hand. Each has a basement at about the
exterior ground level, damp and dark, and only to be reached by a ladder
from the floor above. Possibly these basements were not intended to be
used. They were not vaulted, and have no sewers. Each tower has a first
floor at the court level, and at this level, or a few steps above it, the wall is
pierced all round by a mural gallery, looped to the field and connected with
divers mural chambers and garderobes. The second floor has windows of a
larger opening, as has the third or uppermost. Each floor has a fireplace,
usually a mere opening in the wall, and each is reached by a well staircase,
which begins at the first-floor level and ends in a tall turret which rises
some 20 feet above the roof. From the upper floor a doorway opens out
upon the rampart of the curtain. The floor was all of timber. The roof was
almost flat, having a very slight pitch to a central ridge, and was covered
with lead.
The curtain, everywhere unusually thick and lofty, along the north side
was looped in two stages, showing that it gave support to long ranges of
buildings, probably barracks, with thick walls and very low-pitched lead-
covered roofs. These buildings are wanting, but the towers and curtains are
toothed, to give bond to their walls when built.
Page 367
The most remarkable part of the castle is the arrangement for the defence
of the southern or river front. On this face the curtain is of immense
thickness, extending from the Queen’s Gate to the Eagle Tower, and
including in that distance the Prince’s and the Exchequer Towers, and two
others of smaller dimensions. This wall, from the Queen’s Gate to the
Prince’s Tower, contains, at a little above the court level, a broad and lofty
gallery, which not only pierces the curtain, but is continued through the
walls of the towers, with an occasional vaulted chamber or lobby, as a
“place d’armes.” This gallery is looped towards the field, and has an
occasional window and door towards the court. It descends by steps so as to
preserve its level as regards the court, and in its walls are several
garderobes.
Above this, of the same length and similarly constructed, is a second
gallery, also looped towards the field, but either the inner wall and roof of
this gallery have been removed, or, more probably, never completed, for it
now remains as an open platform. The thicker and outer wall, however, is
perfect, and carries what is still a broad rampart walk, or allure, reached by
occasional flights of steps in the wall from the upper gallery. Thus was
provided a triple line of loops, and these loops are not, as was often the
case, mere air-holes, but are so contrived as to afford ample scope for the
effective use of either longbow or arblast. No body of assailants, however
brave, unprotected by armour or unsupplied with regular siege appliances,
could have withstood such a line of defence, manned, as it would be, with
the first archers in Europe, exposing those without, in front and flank, to a
shower of clothyard shafts and iron-pointed quarrells.
The curtain, from the Prince’s to the Eagle Tower, though as thick as
elsewhere, is solid below, having only the upper gallery; neither does it
communicate with the Eagle Tower, which forms a sort of keep or citadel,
being in dimensions rather larger than, and in strength fully equal to, any of
the others. This tower, also, is of rather superior and certainly more ornate
workmanship than the rest. Its mouldings are all of the best Decorated
period, and it was evidently intended for the reception of distinguished
visitors.
The Well Tower, that next west of the King’s Gate, contains a very
remarkable well. The well, with a pipe of 5 feet diameter, descends in the
thickness of the wall, in which also is the well chamber, whence the well
of the southern or river front. On this face the curtain is of immense
thickness, extending from the Queen’s Gate to the Eagle Tower, and
including in that distance the Prince’s and the Exchequer Towers, and two
others of smaller dimensions. This wall, from the Queen’s Gate to the
Prince’s Tower, contains, at a little above the court level, a broad and lofty
gallery, which not only pierces the curtain, but is continued through the
walls of the towers, with an occasional vaulted chamber or lobby, as a
“place d’armes.” This gallery is looped towards the field, and has an
occasional window and door towards the court. It descends by steps so as to
preserve its level as regards the court, and in its walls are several
garderobes.
Above this, of the same length and similarly constructed, is a second
gallery, also looped towards the field, but either the inner wall and roof of
this gallery have been removed, or, more probably, never completed, for it
now remains as an open platform. The thicker and outer wall, however, is
perfect, and carries what is still a broad rampart walk, or allure, reached by
occasional flights of steps in the wall from the upper gallery. Thus was
provided a triple line of loops, and these loops are not, as was often the
case, mere air-holes, but are so contrived as to afford ample scope for the
effective use of either longbow or arblast. No body of assailants, however
brave, unprotected by armour or unsupplied with regular siege appliances,
could have withstood such a line of defence, manned, as it would be, with
the first archers in Europe, exposing those without, in front and flank, to a
shower of clothyard shafts and iron-pointed quarrells.
The curtain, from the Prince’s to the Eagle Tower, though as thick as
elsewhere, is solid below, having only the upper gallery; neither does it
communicate with the Eagle Tower, which forms a sort of keep or citadel,
being in dimensions rather larger than, and in strength fully equal to, any of
the others. This tower, also, is of rather superior and certainly more ornate
workmanship than the rest. Its mouldings are all of the best Decorated
period, and it was evidently intended for the reception of distinguished
visitors.
The Well Tower, that next west of the King’s Gate, contains a very
remarkable well. The well, with a pipe of 5 feet diameter, descends in the
thickness of the wall, in which also is the well chamber, whence the well
Page 368
was worked. The whole, both well and chamber, are in excellent order.
Unlike the other towers, the basement of the Well Tower is entered from the
court by a steep direct flight of steps. The reason of this is seen in a postern
which opens from the floor of the tower in the wall. It is 16 feet above the
bottom of the ditch, serving, probably, as an internal communication with
the town. The great kitchen does not now exist. It was of large size and
rectangular plan, and extended from the Well Tower to the King’s
Gatehouse. At one end are seen two curious stone circles, probably intended
to carry large iron cauldrons with a space below for a fire. In the side wall,
or curtain, are some mural chambers, and a trough with a stone pipe by
which water was conveyed from the well-chamber through the wall. There
is also the springing-stone of a moulded rib, showing that the kitchen had
an open roof. In this wall a straight staircase ascends to the gatehouse,
possibly to the cook’s bedchamber.
Opposite to the kitchen a line of foundations shows the position and
dimensions of the great hall, 100 feet by 60 feet. It was built against the
south curtain, and extended from the Exchequer to the Prince’s Tower, the
latter being, probably, at the dais end. From the other end of the hall, a
straight staircase led to a postern which opened upon the quay and the river.
Caernarvon is mainly built of limestone. The stones are hammer dressed,
and roughly squared, and laid throughout in courses. Ashlar is very freely
used, and finely cut. The mouldings employed are characteristic of the
Decorated period, and the stone has preserved its surface and arris
uninjured.
The absence of the hall and kitchen, the offices and barracks, and of the
cross building separating the two wards, gives an incomplete and unfinished
appearance to the interior of the castle, but this does not affect its military
details and those of its towers, gatehouses, and curtains; these are very
perfect and very curious. With the decline of the Decorated period in
architecture military defences also began to decline, and the works of
Edward III. and his successors, though often palatial in their grandeur, are
never of a purely military type, and in this respect are never equal to those
of the earlier Edwardian period.
Unlike the other towers, the basement of the Well Tower is entered from the
court by a steep direct flight of steps. The reason of this is seen in a postern
which opens from the floor of the tower in the wall. It is 16 feet above the
bottom of the ditch, serving, probably, as an internal communication with
the town. The great kitchen does not now exist. It was of large size and
rectangular plan, and extended from the Well Tower to the King’s
Gatehouse. At one end are seen two curious stone circles, probably intended
to carry large iron cauldrons with a space below for a fire. In the side wall,
or curtain, are some mural chambers, and a trough with a stone pipe by
which water was conveyed from the well-chamber through the wall. There
is also the springing-stone of a moulded rib, showing that the kitchen had
an open roof. In this wall a straight staircase ascends to the gatehouse,
possibly to the cook’s bedchamber.
Opposite to the kitchen a line of foundations shows the position and
dimensions of the great hall, 100 feet by 60 feet. It was built against the
south curtain, and extended from the Exchequer to the Prince’s Tower, the
latter being, probably, at the dais end. From the other end of the hall, a
straight staircase led to a postern which opened upon the quay and the river.
Caernarvon is mainly built of limestone. The stones are hammer dressed,
and roughly squared, and laid throughout in courses. Ashlar is very freely
used, and finely cut. The mouldings employed are characteristic of the
Decorated period, and the stone has preserved its surface and arris
uninjured.
The absence of the hall and kitchen, the offices and barracks, and of the
cross building separating the two wards, gives an incomplete and unfinished
appearance to the interior of the castle, but this does not affect its military
details and those of its towers, gatehouses, and curtains; these are very
perfect and very curious. With the decline of the Decorated period in
architecture military defences also began to decline, and the works of
Edward III. and his successors, though often palatial in their grandeur, are
never of a purely military type, and in this respect are never equal to those
of the earlier Edwardian period.
Page 369
Caernarvon Castle.
Caernarvon was begun in 1283, immediately upon the execution of
David, the last Welsh prince. The first work was that of quarrying the cross
ditch, and collecting materials and workmen, the latter being drafted from
the English counties. Caernarvon, Conway, Criccaeth, and Harlech, were in
progress together, and nothing short of the hope of consolidating his
kingdom could have induced so economical a sovereign as Edward to incur
expenses which, in one year, for Caernarvon alone, amounted to above
£3,000. The king was here for the first time in 1284, in which year, April
25th, Edward of Caernarvon was born, probably in the town. By 1295 so
little progress had been made that the Welsh, rising in local insurrection,
succeeded in burning the town, and taking what was then executed of the
castle. How much was then built, or how much they left standing is
unknown, but from that time quicker progress was made, and at Edward’s
death the castle was certainly in a forward state. The work was continued
and completed by his son. The Eagle Tower was covered in in 1316, and the
king’s statue set up over the great gate in 1320, and by 1322 the castle was
completed for defensive purposes. The chamberlain of North Wales seems
to have resided here, and the Exchequer Tower was so called because here
were deposited the financial returns for the northern counties, but it may be
doubted whether the grand accommodations designed by the original
architect for the visits of the sovereign were ever actually executed.
Caernarvon was begun in 1283, immediately upon the execution of
David, the last Welsh prince. The first work was that of quarrying the cross
ditch, and collecting materials and workmen, the latter being drafted from
the English counties. Caernarvon, Conway, Criccaeth, and Harlech, were in
progress together, and nothing short of the hope of consolidating his
kingdom could have induced so economical a sovereign as Edward to incur
expenses which, in one year, for Caernarvon alone, amounted to above
£3,000. The king was here for the first time in 1284, in which year, April
25th, Edward of Caernarvon was born, probably in the town. By 1295 so
little progress had been made that the Welsh, rising in local insurrection,
succeeded in burning the town, and taking what was then executed of the
castle. How much was then built, or how much they left standing is
unknown, but from that time quicker progress was made, and at Edward’s
death the castle was certainly in a forward state. The work was continued
and completed by his son. The Eagle Tower was covered in in 1316, and the
king’s statue set up over the great gate in 1320, and by 1322 the castle was
completed for defensive purposes. The chamberlain of North Wales seems
to have resided here, and the Exchequer Tower was so called because here
were deposited the financial returns for the northern counties, but it may be
doubted whether the grand accommodations designed by the original
architect for the visits of the sovereign were ever actually executed.
Page 370
Battlements—Eagle-tower, Caernarvon.
The castle fell into the hands of Owain Glendwr, and was held alternately
by king and parliament during the Great Rebellion.
One of the many valuable papers contributed by the late Mr. Hartshorne
to the Journal of the Archæological Institute contains an excellent history of
this castle; had that gentleman bent himself also to the easier task of its
description, this account would have been uncalled for.
The larger of the accompanying illustrations gives a bird’s-eye view of
the castle from the north-west. In the front and centre is the King’s
Gatehouse, and next, on the spectator’s right, is the Well Tower, and beyond
it, the Eagle Tower. On the extreme left is the interior of the Queen’s
Gatehouse, placed between the Granary Tower on the left and the Black
Tower. Opposite to the King’s Gate is the Exchequer Tower, and between it
and the Eagle is the Prince’s Tower. In the lower or right-hand court are
seen the foundations of the hall; next on the left of the King’s Gate is the
Dungeon Tower.
The smaller illustration shows the allure or rampart-walk of the Eagle
Tower. The rear wall, if it ever existed, has been removed. The cut shows
The castle fell into the hands of Owain Glendwr, and was held alternately
by king and parliament during the Great Rebellion.
One of the many valuable papers contributed by the late Mr. Hartshorne
to the Journal of the Archæological Institute contains an excellent history of
this castle; had that gentleman bent himself also to the easier task of its
description, this account would have been uncalled for.
The larger of the accompanying illustrations gives a bird’s-eye view of
the castle from the north-west. In the front and centre is the King’s
Gatehouse, and next, on the spectator’s right, is the Well Tower, and beyond
it, the Eagle Tower. On the extreme left is the interior of the Queen’s
Gatehouse, placed between the Granary Tower on the left and the Black
Tower. Opposite to the King’s Gate is the Exchequer Tower, and between it
and the Eagle is the Prince’s Tower. In the lower or right-hand court are
seen the foundations of the hall; next on the left of the King’s Gate is the
Dungeon Tower.
The smaller illustration shows the allure or rampart-walk of the Eagle
Tower. The rear wall, if it ever existed, has been removed. The cut shows
Page 371
the merlon, with its contained loop, the plain flat-sided embrasure, and the
figures placed upon the ridge of the coping, one of which gives name to the
tower. The small, shoulder-headed doorway opening from the tower upon
the rampart is also seen.
figures placed upon the ridge of the coping, one of which gives name to the
tower. The small, shoulder-headed doorway opening from the tower upon
the rampart is also seen.
Page 372
CAERPHILLY CASTLE, GLAMORGAN.
CAERPHILLY is by very much the most extensive castle in Wales, and is
reputed to cover, with its outworks and earthworks, about thirty acres.
The castle owes its celebrity to its great extent, and to the peculiar
manner in which one of its towers has been thrown out of the perpendicular
by the forces employed for its destruction. Its real merits are of a less
obvious but much higher character, and rest upon the great military skill
exhibited in its design and construction. It possesses few associations with
historical events. But one, and he a falling, sovereign is certainly known to
have visited it. It is not, like Kidwelly or Cardiff, the head of a feudal
honour or lordship, nor is it surrounded by any franchise or barony. It has
not even received the barren dignity of conferring a title of honour upon any
of its numerous possessors. It has been celebrated by no bard, and even
mentioned only by one.
Neither does Caerphilly possess many of the ordinary sources of interest.
It boasts not the architectural decorations of Caernarvon, the commanding
position of Conway, nor the picturesque beauty of Raglan. It is simply a
ruin of great extent, and possessing that sort of rugged sublimity which is
inseparable from an assemblage of lofty walls and massive and partially
overthrown towers, though neither bosomed in woods, nor mantled, to any
extent, with ivy.
It is remarkable that this castle should have remained altogether
neglected, or very superficially noted by the historians of Wales. The earlier
authorities, Caradoc of Llancarvan and Giraldus Cambrensis, flourished
before the erection of the present edifice, but it is singular that silence
concerning so immense a structure should have been preserved by Lloyd,
and his commentator Powel, and transmitted almost unbroken by the
indefatigable, though credulous, author of the “Munimenta.”
It is not, however, difficult to divine the causes of the obscurity in which
the early history of Caerphilly is involved, and the absence of any historical
CAERPHILLY is by very much the most extensive castle in Wales, and is
reputed to cover, with its outworks and earthworks, about thirty acres.
The castle owes its celebrity to its great extent, and to the peculiar
manner in which one of its towers has been thrown out of the perpendicular
by the forces employed for its destruction. Its real merits are of a less
obvious but much higher character, and rest upon the great military skill
exhibited in its design and construction. It possesses few associations with
historical events. But one, and he a falling, sovereign is certainly known to
have visited it. It is not, like Kidwelly or Cardiff, the head of a feudal
honour or lordship, nor is it surrounded by any franchise or barony. It has
not even received the barren dignity of conferring a title of honour upon any
of its numerous possessors. It has been celebrated by no bard, and even
mentioned only by one.
Neither does Caerphilly possess many of the ordinary sources of interest.
It boasts not the architectural decorations of Caernarvon, the commanding
position of Conway, nor the picturesque beauty of Raglan. It is simply a
ruin of great extent, and possessing that sort of rugged sublimity which is
inseparable from an assemblage of lofty walls and massive and partially
overthrown towers, though neither bosomed in woods, nor mantled, to any
extent, with ivy.
It is remarkable that this castle should have remained altogether
neglected, or very superficially noted by the historians of Wales. The earlier
authorities, Caradoc of Llancarvan and Giraldus Cambrensis, flourished
before the erection of the present edifice, but it is singular that silence
concerning so immense a structure should have been preserved by Lloyd,
and his commentator Powel, and transmitted almost unbroken by the
indefatigable, though credulous, author of the “Munimenta.”
It is not, however, difficult to divine the causes of the obscurity in which
the early history of Caerphilly is involved, and the absence of any historical
Page 373
associations may perhaps be permitted to account for the continued silence
of modern writers.
A castle of considerable magnitude had been erected soon after the
Norman invasion of Wales, at Cardiff; a position which, from its proximity
to the estuary of the Severn, and the mouth of the Taff, from the fertility of
its subjacent meadows, from the protection which it reciprocally afforded
to, and received from, the people of the town, and from its greater distance
from the mountains, and consequent diminished liability to be surprised by
their crafty and warlike inhabitants, was invariably the chief residence of
the feudal Lords of Glamorgan; and from hence it followed, as a necessary
consequence, that Caerphilly, which, from its dangerous proximity, they
were obliged to retain in their immediate possession, fell into comparative
neglect, and, although very superior in magnitude to Cardiff, was
considered only as its dependency in importance.
It was to the Lord of Cardiff that the feudatories of Glamorgan owed suit
and service, and it was to the castle court of that place that they were bound
annually to repair.
The castle of Cardiff is mentioned as the residence of great Norman
barons; it was more than once honoured by a royal guest, and, even at the
far later period of the Parliamentary wars, its acquisition was considered of
great importance. Caerphilly, on the contrary, is rarely mentioned by the
chroniclers, and as a military post ceased to be of importance upon the
death of Llewelyn and the reduction and settlement of the Principality by
Edward. These considerations will explain the little notice taken by
contemporaries of this magnificent fortress, and the consequent dearth of
information respecting its fortunes.
Caerphilly stands upon that wide tract of debateable ground between
England and Wales, which was so long contested by both nations under the
title of “The Marches,” and which, beneath the Normans, had its own
customs and its governors, known as the Lords Marchers.
The castle, though in the Marches, is within the Welsh border, being
about a mile from the river Rhymny, the boundary between Monmouth and
Glamorgan, and, since the reign of Henry VIII., between England and the
Principality, in this direction.
of modern writers.
A castle of considerable magnitude had been erected soon after the
Norman invasion of Wales, at Cardiff; a position which, from its proximity
to the estuary of the Severn, and the mouth of the Taff, from the fertility of
its subjacent meadows, from the protection which it reciprocally afforded
to, and received from, the people of the town, and from its greater distance
from the mountains, and consequent diminished liability to be surprised by
their crafty and warlike inhabitants, was invariably the chief residence of
the feudal Lords of Glamorgan; and from hence it followed, as a necessary
consequence, that Caerphilly, which, from its dangerous proximity, they
were obliged to retain in their immediate possession, fell into comparative
neglect, and, although very superior in magnitude to Cardiff, was
considered only as its dependency in importance.
It was to the Lord of Cardiff that the feudatories of Glamorgan owed suit
and service, and it was to the castle court of that place that they were bound
annually to repair.
The castle of Cardiff is mentioned as the residence of great Norman
barons; it was more than once honoured by a royal guest, and, even at the
far later period of the Parliamentary wars, its acquisition was considered of
great importance. Caerphilly, on the contrary, is rarely mentioned by the
chroniclers, and as a military post ceased to be of importance upon the
death of Llewelyn and the reduction and settlement of the Principality by
Edward. These considerations will explain the little notice taken by
contemporaries of this magnificent fortress, and the consequent dearth of
information respecting its fortunes.
Caerphilly stands upon that wide tract of debateable ground between
England and Wales, which was so long contested by both nations under the
title of “The Marches,” and which, beneath the Normans, had its own
customs and its governors, known as the Lords Marchers.
The castle, though in the Marches, is within the Welsh border, being
about a mile from the river Rhymny, the boundary between Monmouth and
Glamorgan, and, since the reign of Henry VIII., between England and the
Principality, in this direction.
Page 374
The Lordship of Senghenydd, within which the castle is placed, was
granted at the conquest of Glamorgan to Einon of Collwyn, a Welsh lord,
whose granddaughter, Nest, “verch Madoc ap Cradoc ap Einon,” married
Cadivor ap Cydrich, a grandson of Gwaethvoed, and the father of Ivor
Bach, who is described as [mesne] Lord of Senghenydd. Griffith, the son of
Ivor, married a sister of Rhys, Prince of South Wales, before 1174, when he
did homage to Henry II., at Gloucester. By this match the influence of the
family, already great, with the Welsh, was much increased and became very
great. They dwelt too near Cardiff actually to organise insurrections, but
they were always ready to promote them at any favourable opportunity.
Many such opportunities occurred during the reign of Henry III., when the
Earls of Pembroke wielded the power of the infant lord of Glamorgan, and
were continually at war with Henry. Llewelyn, then Prince of Wales, was
sometimes in alliance with the earl, and sometimes harassed his rear,
descending from the uplands of Caermarthen and Cardiff, and bursting into
Monmouthshire across the unguarded pass of Senghenydd. It became the
business of Gilbert de Clare, on coming into his lordship, to bar this
passage, and this he effectually completed by the construction of Caerphilly.
The name of his architect or engineer is unknown to fame, but he was a
deacon in his craft, and the earl gave full play to his abilities.
The castle is placed in the midst of a deep and broad hollow, open on the
east towards the Rhymny, and divided on the west from the valley of the
Taff by the mountain ridge of Mynydd Mayo. North and north-west, at a
greater distance, is the concave crest of Mynydd Eglwisilan, and on the
south, the long and well-known elevation which separates the hill-country
of Glamorgan from the plain, and is intersected by the ravines of the Taff,
the Rhymny, and the Ebbw. This ridge is locally known as Cefn Carnau,
and, on the road from the castle to the sea, is crowned by the ancient
stronghold of Môr-graig. The traveller, who wishes to see Caerphilly to
advantage, should descend upon it soon after sunrise in autumn, from one
of the surrounding heights, when the grey towers of the castle will be seen
rising out of an immense sea of mist.
The whole basin is a part of the Glamorganshire coalfield. The mineral
has long been worked on Caerphilly mountain, where it appears on the
surface, and the castle is chiefly constructed of the fissile sandstone of the
granted at the conquest of Glamorgan to Einon of Collwyn, a Welsh lord,
whose granddaughter, Nest, “verch Madoc ap Cradoc ap Einon,” married
Cadivor ap Cydrich, a grandson of Gwaethvoed, and the father of Ivor
Bach, who is described as [mesne] Lord of Senghenydd. Griffith, the son of
Ivor, married a sister of Rhys, Prince of South Wales, before 1174, when he
did homage to Henry II., at Gloucester. By this match the influence of the
family, already great, with the Welsh, was much increased and became very
great. They dwelt too near Cardiff actually to organise insurrections, but
they were always ready to promote them at any favourable opportunity.
Many such opportunities occurred during the reign of Henry III., when the
Earls of Pembroke wielded the power of the infant lord of Glamorgan, and
were continually at war with Henry. Llewelyn, then Prince of Wales, was
sometimes in alliance with the earl, and sometimes harassed his rear,
descending from the uplands of Caermarthen and Cardiff, and bursting into
Monmouthshire across the unguarded pass of Senghenydd. It became the
business of Gilbert de Clare, on coming into his lordship, to bar this
passage, and this he effectually completed by the construction of Caerphilly.
The name of his architect or engineer is unknown to fame, but he was a
deacon in his craft, and the earl gave full play to his abilities.
The castle is placed in the midst of a deep and broad hollow, open on the
east towards the Rhymny, and divided on the west from the valley of the
Taff by the mountain ridge of Mynydd Mayo. North and north-west, at a
greater distance, is the concave crest of Mynydd Eglwisilan, and on the
south, the long and well-known elevation which separates the hill-country
of Glamorgan from the plain, and is intersected by the ravines of the Taff,
the Rhymny, and the Ebbw. This ridge is locally known as Cefn Carnau,
and, on the road from the castle to the sea, is crowned by the ancient
stronghold of Môr-graig. The traveller, who wishes to see Caerphilly to
advantage, should descend upon it soon after sunrise in autumn, from one
of the surrounding heights, when the grey towers of the castle will be seen
rising out of an immense sea of mist.
The whole basin is a part of the Glamorganshire coalfield. The mineral
has long been worked on Caerphilly mountain, where it appears on the
surface, and the castle is chiefly constructed of the fissile sandstone of the
Page 375
neighbourhood, which appears to have been quarried from a large
excavation by the roadside, near Chapel-Martin.
Along the base of the mountains, and extending some way up their skirts,
here, as in all the valleys in the neighbourhood, lie vast deposits of gravel
and sand, composed in part of the débris of the neighbouring rocks, but
chiefly of rolled pebbles, brought down from the northern hills by diluvial
agency.
Near the centre of the basin is a bed of gravel, of considerable extent and
thickness, the surface of which has been deeply wrought, by some natural
process, into a series of furrows and eminences.
A narrow tongue of slightly elevated ground, the termination of a low
peninsula of gravel, projects eastwards, and, by its projection, divides a
swampy flat of considerable breadth into two portions. These are contained
within irregular gravel banks, similar to, though somewhat higher than, the
central peninsula. The southern is shorter, and almost parallel to it; the
northern is prolonged, and curves around its point, until it is separated from
the southern only by an inconsiderable gorge. The swamp thus assumes
something of the figure of a horse-shoe.
South of the peninsula, the Nant-y-Gledyr, a large rivulet, flows from the
south-west, across the swamp, through the gorge, to join the Rhymny.
North-east of the peninsula a smaller spring, partly fed by the Nant-y-
Gledyr, flows across a part of the northern swamp; and, north of this again,
another spring contributes to the same. Naturally, these waters seem to have
found their way, by a depression or gorge, to the north-eastward, into the
lower part of the Nant-y-Gledyr, outside of and below the upper gorge
already mentioned.
The tongue of land thus guarded was well suited for the purposes of
defence, supposing the peninsula to have been converted, by a cross-trench,
into an island. Water was abundant, pasturage at hand, and the morass
would form a secure front. There is, however, no evidence that the spot was
occupied by the Welsh, though it has been supposed that the stronghold of
Senghenydd was here situated.
When the castle was constructed the surface of the ground underwent
considerable alteration. The first business of the Norman engineer was to
excavation by the roadside, near Chapel-Martin.
Along the base of the mountains, and extending some way up their skirts,
here, as in all the valleys in the neighbourhood, lie vast deposits of gravel
and sand, composed in part of the débris of the neighbouring rocks, but
chiefly of rolled pebbles, brought down from the northern hills by diluvial
agency.
Near the centre of the basin is a bed of gravel, of considerable extent and
thickness, the surface of which has been deeply wrought, by some natural
process, into a series of furrows and eminences.
A narrow tongue of slightly elevated ground, the termination of a low
peninsula of gravel, projects eastwards, and, by its projection, divides a
swampy flat of considerable breadth into two portions. These are contained
within irregular gravel banks, similar to, though somewhat higher than, the
central peninsula. The southern is shorter, and almost parallel to it; the
northern is prolonged, and curves around its point, until it is separated from
the southern only by an inconsiderable gorge. The swamp thus assumes
something of the figure of a horse-shoe.
South of the peninsula, the Nant-y-Gledyr, a large rivulet, flows from the
south-west, across the swamp, through the gorge, to join the Rhymny.
North-east of the peninsula a smaller spring, partly fed by the Nant-y-
Gledyr, flows across a part of the northern swamp; and, north of this again,
another spring contributes to the same. Naturally, these waters seem to have
found their way, by a depression or gorge, to the north-eastward, into the
lower part of the Nant-y-Gledyr, outside of and below the upper gorge
already mentioned.
The tongue of land thus guarded was well suited for the purposes of
defence, supposing the peninsula to have been converted, by a cross-trench,
into an island. Water was abundant, pasturage at hand, and the morass
would form a secure front. There is, however, no evidence that the spot was
occupied by the Welsh, though it has been supposed that the stronghold of
Senghenydd was here situated.
When the castle was constructed the surface of the ground underwent
considerable alteration. The first business of the Norman engineer was to
Page 376
provide for the protection of his fortress by a large expanse of water. To
effect this, the bed of the Nant-y-Gledyr was dammed up at one gorge, and
the northern waters at the other, and the two divisions of the swamp thus
formed into lakes, the southern of about 13 acres, the northern of about one
or two.
Advantage was taken of a narrow and curved ridge, which proceeded
from the root of the peninsula, to divide the northern water into two parts,
of which the one formed the middle, and the other the inner, moat.
The inner moat communicated with the southern lake by two cross cuts;
one, the old natural termination of the peninsula eastwards, the other, an
artificial cut across it on the west; and thus the circuit of the inner moat was
completed.
The island which was thus formed, and encircled by this moat, was
scarped into curtains and bastions, and faced with stone; and the single
cross-cut westward, not being deemed a sufficient defence, the peninsula
was divided by a second cross-cut further westward, and the second island,
thus formed, was converted into a sort of large horn-work or demi-lune,
covering the western approach. This also was scarped and revetted.
Thus, then, the principal features of the ground plan are—the end of the
peninsula converted into an island, and defended on the north by the inner
north moat, on the south by the lake, on the east by the inner east moat, and
on the west by the inner cross-cut—the whole making up the inner moat.
Proceeding outwards, we have, as the boundaries of this moat—on the
west, the horn-work, prolonged on the north into the curved ridge forming
the counterscarp of the inner moat; on the east, the natural bank occupied
by the southern half of the grand front; and on the south, the acclivity of the
bank of the lake, rising rather steeply. All these form the outer boundaries of
the inner moat. The second, or middle, line of defence is less complete, and
is confined to the west and northern sides. It begins with the outer cross-cut,
west of the horn-work, which communicates at one end with the lake, and at
the other with the middle moat. Beyond this middle line of defence is, upon
the north-west, a high knoll, the summit of which has been carved into a
redoubt; towards the north the northern bank, which is protected westwards
by the northern brook, and thickened eastwards into a dam wall; and
effect this, the bed of the Nant-y-Gledyr was dammed up at one gorge, and
the northern waters at the other, and the two divisions of the swamp thus
formed into lakes, the southern of about 13 acres, the northern of about one
or two.
Advantage was taken of a narrow and curved ridge, which proceeded
from the root of the peninsula, to divide the northern water into two parts,
of which the one formed the middle, and the other the inner, moat.
The inner moat communicated with the southern lake by two cross cuts;
one, the old natural termination of the peninsula eastwards, the other, an
artificial cut across it on the west; and thus the circuit of the inner moat was
completed.
The island which was thus formed, and encircled by this moat, was
scarped into curtains and bastions, and faced with stone; and the single
cross-cut westward, not being deemed a sufficient defence, the peninsula
was divided by a second cross-cut further westward, and the second island,
thus formed, was converted into a sort of large horn-work or demi-lune,
covering the western approach. This also was scarped and revetted.
Thus, then, the principal features of the ground plan are—the end of the
peninsula converted into an island, and defended on the north by the inner
north moat, on the south by the lake, on the east by the inner east moat, and
on the west by the inner cross-cut—the whole making up the inner moat.
Proceeding outwards, we have, as the boundaries of this moat—on the
west, the horn-work, prolonged on the north into the curved ridge forming
the counterscarp of the inner moat; on the east, the natural bank occupied
by the southern half of the grand front; and on the south, the acclivity of the
bank of the lake, rising rather steeply. All these form the outer boundaries of
the inner moat. The second, or middle, line of defence is less complete, and
is confined to the west and northern sides. It begins with the outer cross-cut,
west of the horn-work, which communicates at one end with the lake, and at
the other with the middle moat. Beyond this middle line of defence is, upon
the north-west, a high knoll, the summit of which has been carved into a
redoubt; towards the north the northern bank, which is protected westwards
by the northern brook, and thickened eastwards into a dam wall; and
Page 377
towards the north-east, east, and south-east, by the continuation of this
bank, and the northern half of the grand front, built upon it.
These defences are again strengthened—on the north by one division of
the outer moat, formed by the passage of the north brook, and on the east by
the other division extending in advance of the grand front, and connected
with the Nant-y-Gledyr, near the great drawbridge. These moats are divided
by a sort of causeway at the north-east angle of the outworks, reserved for
the passage of cavalry from a sally-port. A part of the earth excavated from
these outer moats seems to have been thrown up outside, so as to form
banks, one of which is occupied by the main street of Caerphilly, the other
by the Nant-Garw road.
It is hoped that reference to the plan, and to the bird’s-eye view of the
lake, will suffice to render the above description intelligible.
For the purpose of the description of the castle itself, the whole may be
considered as composed of five parts, each of which will be further
subdivided. These parts are:—
I.—The Grand Front. II.—The Horn-work. III.—The Redoubt. IV.—
The Middle Ward. V.—The Inner Ward.
I.—The eastern or Grand Front of Caerphilly is a very fine and
complete specimen of a mediæval line of defence. It is composed of a long
curtain wall of considerable height and thickness, strengthened on the
exterior by buttresses and buttress-towers, rising in the centre into a broad
and lofty gatehouse, and terminated, at either extremity, by clusters of
towers that protect its sally-ports, and prevent it from being out-flanked.
Before it is a broad and deep moat, supplied with water, and crossed by a
double drawbridge. In its rear is a second moat, also crossed by a
drawbridge. The length of the façade is about 250 yards, the height varies
from 20 to 60 feet.
It is divided into the great gatehouse, the northern curtain and postern,
and the southern curtain and postern.
The Great Gatehouse stands a little on the north side of the centre. Its
line of front is not exactly parallel to those of the curtains, the plan being
irregular.
bank, and the northern half of the grand front, built upon it.
These defences are again strengthened—on the north by one division of
the outer moat, formed by the passage of the north brook, and on the east by
the other division extending in advance of the grand front, and connected
with the Nant-y-Gledyr, near the great drawbridge. These moats are divided
by a sort of causeway at the north-east angle of the outworks, reserved for
the passage of cavalry from a sally-port. A part of the earth excavated from
these outer moats seems to have been thrown up outside, so as to form
banks, one of which is occupied by the main street of Caerphilly, the other
by the Nant-Garw road.
It is hoped that reference to the plan, and to the bird’s-eye view of the
lake, will suffice to render the above description intelligible.
For the purpose of the description of the castle itself, the whole may be
considered as composed of five parts, each of which will be further
subdivided. These parts are:—
I.—The Grand Front. II.—The Horn-work. III.—The Redoubt. IV.—
The Middle Ward. V.—The Inner Ward.
I.—The eastern or Grand Front of Caerphilly is a very fine and
complete specimen of a mediæval line of defence. It is composed of a long
curtain wall of considerable height and thickness, strengthened on the
exterior by buttresses and buttress-towers, rising in the centre into a broad
and lofty gatehouse, and terminated, at either extremity, by clusters of
towers that protect its sally-ports, and prevent it from being out-flanked.
Before it is a broad and deep moat, supplied with water, and crossed by a
double drawbridge. In its rear is a second moat, also crossed by a
drawbridge. The length of the façade is about 250 yards, the height varies
from 20 to 60 feet.
It is divided into the great gatehouse, the northern curtain and postern,
and the southern curtain and postern.
The Great Gatehouse stands a little on the north side of the centre. Its
line of front is not exactly parallel to those of the curtains, the plan being
irregular.
Page 378
The Gatehouse proper is a lofty oblong building, 50 feet broad by 35 feet
deep, and about 60 feet high. It is perforated below by the portal, but rises
above as a broad tower. Its lateral portions project 6 feet beyond the portal,
and form porters’ lodges.
DELAMOTTE & HEAVISIDE SC.
CAERPHILLY.
The portal, 10 feet wide by 20 feet high, was defended by gates,
portcullis, and stockade. It is guarded by loops on each side from the
lodges. Those opening from the portal, measure 20 feet by 10 feet, have
fireplaces, and were floored with timber. The walls are 9 feet thick, and are
looped in various directions for defence.
deep, and about 60 feet high. It is perforated below by the portal, but rises
above as a broad tower. Its lateral portions project 6 feet beyond the portal,
and form porters’ lodges.
DELAMOTTE & HEAVISIDE SC.
CAERPHILLY.
The portal, 10 feet wide by 20 feet high, was defended by gates,
portcullis, and stockade. It is guarded by loops on each side from the
lodges. Those opening from the portal, measure 20 feet by 10 feet, have
fireplaces, and were floored with timber. The walls are 9 feet thick, and are
looped in various directions for defence.
Page 379
Caerphilly Castle.
A Inner Ward. D Outer Ward. G South Postern.
B Middle Ward. E Great Gatehouse H Sluice.
C Kitchen Tower and and Pier. I Outer Water Gate.
Water Gate. F North Postern.
Passing through the gatehouse, behind it is a broad platform, which
extends behind the southern curtain, and is scarped and revetted towards the
inner moat; on the right of this is a prolongation of the gatehouse
westwards, into the gatehouse tower. One of two doorways leads up this
tower by a hexagonal well-stair, 9 feet in mean diameter; this opens upon
A Inner Ward. D Outer Ward. G South Postern.
B Middle Ward. E Great Gatehouse H Sluice.
C Kitchen Tower and and Pier. I Outer Water Gate.
Water Gate. F North Postern.
Passing through the gatehouse, behind it is a broad platform, which
extends behind the southern curtain, and is scarped and revetted towards the
inner moat; on the right of this is a prolongation of the gatehouse
westwards, into the gatehouse tower. One of two doorways leads up this
tower by a hexagonal well-stair, 9 feet in mean diameter; this opens upon
Page 380
seven apartments in two stories, and terminates in a lofty quadrangular
turret. In the first story are devices for working the portcullis, and a small
fireplace and oven, probably intended to serve the purpose of a cooking-
place for the porter and his assistants. These rooms are vaulted. From this
story a passage opens upon the rampart of the northern curtain, and led,
probably by a temporary plank bridge, across an abyss in the thickness of
the wall, about 29 feet deep and 5 feet wide, and opening below between
the grates of a water gate. A passage, at the ground level, leads from the
platform through the gatehouse tower, across the ditch or canal from the
water gate, to the northern curtain, and was defended by gates, portcullis,
and drawbridge.
From the gatehouse a dividing wall, 20 feet high and 6 feet thick, extends
westward 80 feet to the edge of the inner moat, and thus cuts off the
platform and the whole of the southern from the northern curtain. Each face
has been embattled, so that should either curtain be taken, the other could
still be defended.
At the union of the gatehouse with the northern curtain, in the latter, at
the level of the water’s edge, is a low-browed archway, which could only
have been accessible by a boat, and is a water gate. It is defended by two
grates, and a cavity open above between them, and thence a covered way,
once probably a sort of canal, leads close under, and north of, the dividing
wall, to the edge of the inner moat.
This curtain runs northward for 130 yards, and is strengthened exteriorly
by three buttress towers, quadrangular and solid below, but hexagonal and
chambered above. Each has a projection of 20 feet; they are of unequal
breadth. The chambers have each a loop in front, and one at the junction of
the tower with the wall on either side. They were accessible only from the
rampart.
In the curtain itself are six loops, opening in pairs between the buttress
towers. The curtain ends, northward, in a pair of towers, connected by the
vault of a portal, the north postern, regularly defended, and opening upon a
plot of ground and causeway separating the two parts of the outer moat.
Behind, and parallel to this curtain, at a distance of 19 feet, was a slight
wall, 4 feet thick, which formed the back wall of a postern gallery, leading
from the gatehouse to the north postern, and forming above a broad flat
turret. In the first story are devices for working the portcullis, and a small
fireplace and oven, probably intended to serve the purpose of a cooking-
place for the porter and his assistants. These rooms are vaulted. From this
story a passage opens upon the rampart of the northern curtain, and led,
probably by a temporary plank bridge, across an abyss in the thickness of
the wall, about 29 feet deep and 5 feet wide, and opening below between
the grates of a water gate. A passage, at the ground level, leads from the
platform through the gatehouse tower, across the ditch or canal from the
water gate, to the northern curtain, and was defended by gates, portcullis,
and drawbridge.
From the gatehouse a dividing wall, 20 feet high and 6 feet thick, extends
westward 80 feet to the edge of the inner moat, and thus cuts off the
platform and the whole of the southern from the northern curtain. Each face
has been embattled, so that should either curtain be taken, the other could
still be defended.
At the union of the gatehouse with the northern curtain, in the latter, at
the level of the water’s edge, is a low-browed archway, which could only
have been accessible by a boat, and is a water gate. It is defended by two
grates, and a cavity open above between them, and thence a covered way,
once probably a sort of canal, leads close under, and north of, the dividing
wall, to the edge of the inner moat.
This curtain runs northward for 130 yards, and is strengthened exteriorly
by three buttress towers, quadrangular and solid below, but hexagonal and
chambered above. Each has a projection of 20 feet; they are of unequal
breadth. The chambers have each a loop in front, and one at the junction of
the tower with the wall on either side. They were accessible only from the
rampart.
In the curtain itself are six loops, opening in pairs between the buttress
towers. The curtain ends, northward, in a pair of towers, connected by the
vault of a portal, the north postern, regularly defended, and opening upon a
plot of ground and causeway separating the two parts of the outer moat.
Behind, and parallel to this curtain, at a distance of 19 feet, was a slight
wall, 4 feet thick, which formed the back wall of a postern gallery, leading
from the gatehouse to the north postern, and forming above a broad flat
Page 381
walk for the defence of the ramparts. This gallery is said to have been fitted
up as a stable.
Southern Curtain.—The general plan of this curtain is irregular; it passes
south-eastward from the gatehouse, forms a large semicircle, and, passing
off in a long straight wall, crosses the Nant-y-Gledyr, and terminates in a
tête-du-pont and a postern. This wall contains a large mural garderobe
tower at its angle, and is supported exteriorly by seven quadrangular solid
buttresses. In one place it is perforated for the discharge of the waste waters
of the mill, and in another for the passage of the Nant-y-Gledyr, being, at
that part, where subjected to great pressure, 15 feet thick. This curtain is
accessible from the tête-du-pont; and upon it, through the garderobe tower
is a mural chamber, serving as a “place d’armes.” The face of the wall,
between the buttresses, is wrought into a concavity, increasing towards the
summit, so that any missile dropped from it would be projected outwards.
The soil of the platform behind this curtain is 25 feet above the exterior
level.
The Platform is a large surface of sward behind the southern curtain,
between it and the counterscarp of the inner moat; upon it stood the mill,
and from it dropped the inner drawbridge. It increases in breadth from the
dam to the dividing wall, where it measures 94 feet.
The Tête-du-pont terminates the southern curtain. It consists of a curve of
the wall, westward, into a semicircle, with towers and a postern gate,
protected by a bifurcated wall, intended to prevent the curtain from being
outflanked. It rests upon the outer edge of the lake.
In front of this great line of defence is a moat, about 60 feet wide, and
crossed by a double drawbridge of two spans of 18 feet each at the great
gateway, connected with a large pier in the centre of the moat, capable of
being converted into a sort of barbican. This moat communicates with, and
admitted of being filled from, the Nant-y-Gledyr.
Such is the principal front and eastern line of defence, not only calculated
to withstand attacks from the front, flanks, or rear, but also capable of being
held out, the southern against the northern part.
From the northern extremity of this front, at the northern postern, a bank
of earth, lined inwards, or on its southern face, by a wall, and at one part
up as a stable.
Southern Curtain.—The general plan of this curtain is irregular; it passes
south-eastward from the gatehouse, forms a large semicircle, and, passing
off in a long straight wall, crosses the Nant-y-Gledyr, and terminates in a
tête-du-pont and a postern. This wall contains a large mural garderobe
tower at its angle, and is supported exteriorly by seven quadrangular solid
buttresses. In one place it is perforated for the discharge of the waste waters
of the mill, and in another for the passage of the Nant-y-Gledyr, being, at
that part, where subjected to great pressure, 15 feet thick. This curtain is
accessible from the tête-du-pont; and upon it, through the garderobe tower
is a mural chamber, serving as a “place d’armes.” The face of the wall,
between the buttresses, is wrought into a concavity, increasing towards the
summit, so that any missile dropped from it would be projected outwards.
The soil of the platform behind this curtain is 25 feet above the exterior
level.
The Platform is a large surface of sward behind the southern curtain,
between it and the counterscarp of the inner moat; upon it stood the mill,
and from it dropped the inner drawbridge. It increases in breadth from the
dam to the dividing wall, where it measures 94 feet.
The Tête-du-pont terminates the southern curtain. It consists of a curve of
the wall, westward, into a semicircle, with towers and a postern gate,
protected by a bifurcated wall, intended to prevent the curtain from being
outflanked. It rests upon the outer edge of the lake.
In front of this great line of defence is a moat, about 60 feet wide, and
crossed by a double drawbridge of two spans of 18 feet each at the great
gateway, connected with a large pier in the centre of the moat, capable of
being converted into a sort of barbican. This moat communicates with, and
admitted of being filled from, the Nant-y-Gledyr.
Such is the principal front and eastern line of defence, not only calculated
to withstand attacks from the front, flanks, or rear, but also capable of being
held out, the southern against the northern part.
From the northern extremity of this front, at the northern postern, a bank
of earth, lined inwards, or on its southern face, by a wall, and at one part
Page 382
thickened into a dam, divides the middle from the outer moat, at present
skirted by the Nant-Garw road. This is the north bank.
From the same front, from the end of the covered way, close to the
dividing wall, a second bank of earth is given off, and, passing westwards to
unite with the horn-work, divides the inner from the middle moat, and
forms a part of the northern defences of the castle. Its inner face is partially
lined by a wall, in which is a sluice-tunnel. This is the curved ridge.
II.—The Horn-work covering the western front of the castle, and placed
between the middle and outer gates, is an irregular polygon of about three
acres, revetted all round with a wall of 15 feet high, above which is a talus
of about 8 feet more. From its south-western face issues one of the feeding
springs of the lake. On the eastern, or longest face, is a semi-pier, to receive
the drawbridge, of 20 feet span, from the opposite gatehouse of the middle
ward. On the north-western face a similar semi-pier, between half-round
bastions, seems to have supported the drawbridge, also of 20 feet span,
giving access to the castle in this direction. Possibly each bridge was of two
pieces, one dropping from each bank upon a central tressel or timber
structure in the ditch.
III.—The Redoubt has already been mentioned as being formed by
scraping down a knoll of gravel on the north-west quarter of the castle.
The body of this earthwork is quadrangular, capped at the three outer
angles by three bastions, and excavated in the centre into a sort of casemate.
The curtain, towards the castle, is intersected by two trenches, separated by
a mound or cavalier, and leading into the centre of the work.
Outside the redoubt, and following the curve of its bastions, is a ditch,
upon the outer three sides broad and deep, on the fourth side but slightly
marked.
The ramparts of the redoubt are unprovided with either parapets for
canon or banquettes for musquetry, and the scarp is continued unbroken to
the rampart. Neither scarp nor counterscarp, though steep, has any retaining
wall.
Beyond its main ditch is a spacious glacis, terminating in three low
bastions and a shallow ditch. Both ditches were probably dry.
skirted by the Nant-Garw road. This is the north bank.
From the same front, from the end of the covered way, close to the
dividing wall, a second bank of earth is given off, and, passing westwards to
unite with the horn-work, divides the inner from the middle moat, and
forms a part of the northern defences of the castle. Its inner face is partially
lined by a wall, in which is a sluice-tunnel. This is the curved ridge.
II.—The Horn-work covering the western front of the castle, and placed
between the middle and outer gates, is an irregular polygon of about three
acres, revetted all round with a wall of 15 feet high, above which is a talus
of about 8 feet more. From its south-western face issues one of the feeding
springs of the lake. On the eastern, or longest face, is a semi-pier, to receive
the drawbridge, of 20 feet span, from the opposite gatehouse of the middle
ward. On the north-western face a similar semi-pier, between half-round
bastions, seems to have supported the drawbridge, also of 20 feet span,
giving access to the castle in this direction. Possibly each bridge was of two
pieces, one dropping from each bank upon a central tressel or timber
structure in the ditch.
III.—The Redoubt has already been mentioned as being formed by
scraping down a knoll of gravel on the north-west quarter of the castle.
The body of this earthwork is quadrangular, capped at the three outer
angles by three bastions, and excavated in the centre into a sort of casemate.
The curtain, towards the castle, is intersected by two trenches, separated by
a mound or cavalier, and leading into the centre of the work.
Outside the redoubt, and following the curve of its bastions, is a ditch,
upon the outer three sides broad and deep, on the fourth side but slightly
marked.
The ramparts of the redoubt are unprovided with either parapets for
canon or banquettes for musquetry, and the scarp is continued unbroken to
the rampart. Neither scarp nor counterscarp, though steep, has any retaining
wall.
Beyond its main ditch is a spacious glacis, terminating in three low
bastions and a shallow ditch. Both ditches were probably dry.
Page 383
The whole work resembles much those thrown up in haste during the
wars between Charles I. and the Parliament, and has either been partially
destroyed, or, which seems more probable, has never been entirely
completed. No doubt it was stockaded.
The inner and middle wards of the castle occupy the island, which has
already been described as formed out of the end of the peninsula.
This island is scarped into a parallelogram, 111 yards east and west, by
96 north and south. The four angles are capped by large bastions, parts of
circles. The intervening straight lines are termed, in fortification, curtains.
The sides or scarps of these bastions and curtains are faced with a stone
wall 30 feet high, and surmounted by a parapet of from 5 feet to 12 feet
more; and within this enclosure are contained the middle and inner ward.
The inner ward is formed by placing a second parallelogram, smaller
than the last, within it. This forms the inner, and the concentric space
between the two, the middle, ward.
IV.—The Middle Ward thus presents four divisions, towards the cardinal
points, all forming terraces of from 16 to 20 yards broad, and the opposite
sides being of nearly equal length. Upon the east and west are the
gatehouses; on the south, offices, and a water gate; and, on the north, an
open terrace, overlooking the outer defences of the castle on that side.
The Eastern Gatehouse is formed of two low towers, with half-round
projections towards the moat, and a portal between the two. The walls are
thick, and there is a lodge on each side, lighted by three loops. Above these
lodges was the battlement. On the north side is a square building, the use of
which is unknown. This gatehouse was connected with that of the inner
ward, and between the two there seem to have been side doors.
One of these, on the south, led to the Water-tank, lined with masonry, 50
feet long by 20 wide, probably a fish-preserve connected with the kitchen.
In front of this gatehouse, and dividing it from the platform of the grand
gate, the moat is about 45 feet wide. As there are no traces of a central pier
for the drawbridge which must have crossed this space, it seems probable
that it rested on an intermediate tressel of timber, as at Raby and Holt,
which admitted of being removed or destroyed in the event of a siege.
wars between Charles I. and the Parliament, and has either been partially
destroyed, or, which seems more probable, has never been entirely
completed. No doubt it was stockaded.
The inner and middle wards of the castle occupy the island, which has
already been described as formed out of the end of the peninsula.
This island is scarped into a parallelogram, 111 yards east and west, by
96 north and south. The four angles are capped by large bastions, parts of
circles. The intervening straight lines are termed, in fortification, curtains.
The sides or scarps of these bastions and curtains are faced with a stone
wall 30 feet high, and surmounted by a parapet of from 5 feet to 12 feet
more; and within this enclosure are contained the middle and inner ward.
The inner ward is formed by placing a second parallelogram, smaller
than the last, within it. This forms the inner, and the concentric space
between the two, the middle, ward.
IV.—The Middle Ward thus presents four divisions, towards the cardinal
points, all forming terraces of from 16 to 20 yards broad, and the opposite
sides being of nearly equal length. Upon the east and west are the
gatehouses; on the south, offices, and a water gate; and, on the north, an
open terrace, overlooking the outer defences of the castle on that side.
The Eastern Gatehouse is formed of two low towers, with half-round
projections towards the moat, and a portal between the two. The walls are
thick, and there is a lodge on each side, lighted by three loops. Above these
lodges was the battlement. On the north side is a square building, the use of
which is unknown. This gatehouse was connected with that of the inner
ward, and between the two there seem to have been side doors.
One of these, on the south, led to the Water-tank, lined with masonry, 50
feet long by 20 wide, probably a fish-preserve connected with the kitchen.
In front of this gatehouse, and dividing it from the platform of the grand
gate, the moat is about 45 feet wide. As there are no traces of a central pier
for the drawbridge which must have crossed this space, it seems probable
that it rested on an intermediate tressel of timber, as at Raby and Holt,
which admitted of being removed or destroyed in the event of a siege.
Page 384
The Western Gatehouse is placed opposite to the horn-work, and between
them is a moat 60 feet wide. The portal is loftier, and the front broader, than
in the eastern gatehouse. There are two chambers on either side of the
portal, and above them a first story, with fireplaces and chimneys.
Between this gate and the north-west tower of the inner ward are some
later buildings, and a wall, which seems to have been intended to cut off the
communication between the gatehouse and the north terrace. On the south
side is a similar wall, shutting off the south terrace.
The offices and water-gate passage occupy a part of the south terrace of
this ward.
The Water-gate Gallery leads from the hall to the lake, and is big enough
to contain a boat. It is vaulted by a succession of narrow arches, in steps,
instead of by one sloping vault. Above it are chambers, probably for cooks
and attendants in the kitchens.
Against this passage, upon its eastern side, is the Kitchen Tower—a low
tower of great strength, having the ground floor vaulted, and recesses,
apparently for boiling and stewing, on a large scale. The fireplace is in the
upper story.
The kitchen communicated with the hall, and with a sort of yard
occupying the eastern end of the south terrace. A well-stair leads down to
the lower, and up to the upper, kitchen.
In the yard is the oven, and a passage leading to the tank. Here, also,
against the south curtain of the inner ward is a low oblong building, with
one or two bows to the south, which seems to have been connected with the
kitchen, and, in modern days, would have been the still-room.
V.—The Inner Ward is a quadrangle, measuring 200 feet east and west,
by 160 feet north and south. It is contained within four curtain walls,
capped at the angles by four round towers, and broken on the east and west
sides by two lofty and magnificent gatehouses. The south side of the court
thus formed is occupied by the hall and state apartments.
Of the Curtains, those on the north and east, are about 30 feet high,
including the battlement. That on the south is higher by a story, and the
rampart walk is continued along it—below, as a vaulted triforial gallery in
the thickness of the wall, above, as an open walk. The triforial passage in
them is a moat 60 feet wide. The portal is loftier, and the front broader, than
in the eastern gatehouse. There are two chambers on either side of the
portal, and above them a first story, with fireplaces and chimneys.
Between this gate and the north-west tower of the inner ward are some
later buildings, and a wall, which seems to have been intended to cut off the
communication between the gatehouse and the north terrace. On the south
side is a similar wall, shutting off the south terrace.
The offices and water-gate passage occupy a part of the south terrace of
this ward.
The Water-gate Gallery leads from the hall to the lake, and is big enough
to contain a boat. It is vaulted by a succession of narrow arches, in steps,
instead of by one sloping vault. Above it are chambers, probably for cooks
and attendants in the kitchens.
Against this passage, upon its eastern side, is the Kitchen Tower—a low
tower of great strength, having the ground floor vaulted, and recesses,
apparently for boiling and stewing, on a large scale. The fireplace is in the
upper story.
The kitchen communicated with the hall, and with a sort of yard
occupying the eastern end of the south terrace. A well-stair leads down to
the lower, and up to the upper, kitchen.
In the yard is the oven, and a passage leading to the tank. Here, also,
against the south curtain of the inner ward is a low oblong building, with
one or two bows to the south, which seems to have been connected with the
kitchen, and, in modern days, would have been the still-room.
V.—The Inner Ward is a quadrangle, measuring 200 feet east and west,
by 160 feet north and south. It is contained within four curtain walls,
capped at the angles by four round towers, and broken on the east and west
sides by two lofty and magnificent gatehouses. The south side of the court
thus formed is occupied by the hall and state apartments.
Of the Curtains, those on the north and east, are about 30 feet high,
including the battlement. That on the south is higher by a story, and the
rampart walk is continued along it—below, as a vaulted triforial gallery in
the thickness of the wall, above, as an open walk. The triforial passage in
Page 385
the southern curtain is called the Braose Gallery, why, it is difficult to say,
since the barons of that name, though lords of Gower, had no property east
of the Nedd, in Glamorgan.
The four Bastion Towers which cap the angles of this ward are very
marked features in the appearance of the castle. They have a projection,
outside the wall, of three-fourths of a circle; are of three stages, with timber
roofs and floors; and measure, in exterior diameter, 36 feet, and within, 18
feet; the walls being 9 feet thick. Each story is lighted by loopholes, very
large within, but appearing exteriorly as a line. A well-stair leads to the
summit of each. These towers open into the court, and upon the battlements.
Their type is best seen in the north-west tower.
The Eastern Gatehouse is a superb pile. It is oblong, and has two half-
round bows on its eastern side, and two round turrets, of three-quarter circle
projection, at the north-west and south-west angles, within the court. The
building is traversed by a portal, entered between the bow towers. The arch
is “drop,” and the entrance is defended by gates, palisade, and portcullis.
Above the opening into the court is a shoot for dropping missiles upon
those below. On each side of the portal are lodges, and the second story is a
spacious hall or council-chamber, with a large fireplace, and two large and
handsome windows looking towards the court. Above this chamber is the
battlement. On the north and south sides of this gatehouse are a number of
small apartments, mostly vaulted, and some of them used as portcullis
rooms. Over the door leading to the ramparts, on the south, is a small
oratory or chapel, with a ribbed and vaulted roof, and two Decorated
windows.
The Western Gatehouse is on the same plan, but rather smaller, and
without turrets towards the court, its staircases being contained within the
thickness of the wall. The lodges on each side of the portal are vaulted and
ribbed, with ornamental corbels. They open direct into the court. The state
chamber above is not so large as in the eastern gatehouse. It rests upon a
vaulted floor.
The Hall is built against the south curtain. It measures 73 feet by 35 feet,
and was about 30 feet high. It is lighted by four large and lofty windows
towards the court, with ogee arches and reduplicated bands of the ball-
flower moulding; within are crocketed canopies, in a somewhat stiff, but
since the barons of that name, though lords of Gower, had no property east
of the Nedd, in Glamorgan.
The four Bastion Towers which cap the angles of this ward are very
marked features in the appearance of the castle. They have a projection,
outside the wall, of three-fourths of a circle; are of three stages, with timber
roofs and floors; and measure, in exterior diameter, 36 feet, and within, 18
feet; the walls being 9 feet thick. Each story is lighted by loopholes, very
large within, but appearing exteriorly as a line. A well-stair leads to the
summit of each. These towers open into the court, and upon the battlements.
Their type is best seen in the north-west tower.
The Eastern Gatehouse is a superb pile. It is oblong, and has two half-
round bows on its eastern side, and two round turrets, of three-quarter circle
projection, at the north-west and south-west angles, within the court. The
building is traversed by a portal, entered between the bow towers. The arch
is “drop,” and the entrance is defended by gates, palisade, and portcullis.
Above the opening into the court is a shoot for dropping missiles upon
those below. On each side of the portal are lodges, and the second story is a
spacious hall or council-chamber, with a large fireplace, and two large and
handsome windows looking towards the court. Above this chamber is the
battlement. On the north and south sides of this gatehouse are a number of
small apartments, mostly vaulted, and some of them used as portcullis
rooms. Over the door leading to the ramparts, on the south, is a small
oratory or chapel, with a ribbed and vaulted roof, and two Decorated
windows.
The Western Gatehouse is on the same plan, but rather smaller, and
without turrets towards the court, its staircases being contained within the
thickness of the wall. The lodges on each side of the portal are vaulted and
ribbed, with ornamental corbels. They open direct into the court. The state
chamber above is not so large as in the eastern gatehouse. It rests upon a
vaulted floor.
The Hall is built against the south curtain. It measures 73 feet by 35 feet,
and was about 30 feet high. It is lighted by four large and lofty windows
towards the court, with ogee arches and reduplicated bands of the ball-
flower moulding; within are crocketed canopies, in a somewhat stiff, but
Page 386
excellent, style. Between the windows is a broad fireplace, and to the east
of them a door, which was the principal entrance on the south side. A door
in the curtain leads down a long vaulted passage to the water gate of the
lake, and another door leads to the kitchen and bakehouse, in the middle
ward. A plain door at the west end opens into some state apartments, and
other doors, and a large window at the east end, communicate with a cellar
and the chapel.
The roof, of timber, sprung from fourteen short clustered pilasters, resting
upon heads as corbels, placed against the north and south walls. The north
wall is of dressed stone, and carried a stringcourse with ball flowers, about
3 feet above the ground. On the east wall is a stringcourse connected with
the drip-stone of the chapel window. The east, south, and western sides
were plastered, and probably painted, or hung with tapestry.
The Chapel, east of the hall—evident from its position and large east
window—presents nothing remarkable. There are four state apartments
west of the hall, two on the ground and two on the first floor. They are
lighted from the north, and one of the windows is of great length and
cinquefoiled, with a quatrefoil in the head. A staircase in the thickness of
the curtain wall leads into the Braose Gallery, as well as to the upper rooms,
and to some appendages connected with the sewage, and which seem to
have been added.
In the grand court, a little to the north of the eastern entrance, is the well,
about 4 feet diameter.
PRESENT CONDITION.
The castle, in its present condition, assumes a very different appearance
from that described as its original state, although enough remains to bear
out the description.
The eastern, or main front, is in good preservation. The masonry of the
three northern buttresses is but little injured, although between them and the
curtain are deep fissures, evidently the work of gunpowder, aided by the
presence of a long window on either side. The mine was evidently sprung at
the gorge of these buttresses, but the quantity of powder introduced has not
been sufficient to overthrow them.
of them a door, which was the principal entrance on the south side. A door
in the curtain leads down a long vaulted passage to the water gate of the
lake, and another door leads to the kitchen and bakehouse, in the middle
ward. A plain door at the west end opens into some state apartments, and
other doors, and a large window at the east end, communicate with a cellar
and the chapel.
The roof, of timber, sprung from fourteen short clustered pilasters, resting
upon heads as corbels, placed against the north and south walls. The north
wall is of dressed stone, and carried a stringcourse with ball flowers, about
3 feet above the ground. On the east wall is a stringcourse connected with
the drip-stone of the chapel window. The east, south, and western sides
were plastered, and probably painted, or hung with tapestry.
The Chapel, east of the hall—evident from its position and large east
window—presents nothing remarkable. There are four state apartments
west of the hall, two on the ground and two on the first floor. They are
lighted from the north, and one of the windows is of great length and
cinquefoiled, with a quatrefoil in the head. A staircase in the thickness of
the curtain wall leads into the Braose Gallery, as well as to the upper rooms,
and to some appendages connected with the sewage, and which seem to
have been added.
In the grand court, a little to the north of the eastern entrance, is the well,
about 4 feet diameter.
PRESENT CONDITION.
The castle, in its present condition, assumes a very different appearance
from that described as its original state, although enough remains to bear
out the description.
The eastern, or main front, is in good preservation. The masonry of the
three northern buttresses is but little injured, although between them and the
curtain are deep fissures, evidently the work of gunpowder, aided by the
presence of a long window on either side. The mine was evidently sprung at
the gorge of these buttresses, but the quantity of powder introduced has not
been sufficient to overthrow them.
Page 387
Most of the smaller buttresses on the southern flank are unhurt, but the
two at the southern extremity are laid prostrate, with their connecting
curtain, 15 feet in thickness, forming a chasm, through which the Nant-y-
Gledyr takes its undisturbed course. The object of this destruction, which
was permanently to empty the lake, has been gained. It is now a meadow.
The lower story of the grand gatehouse, and the piers of its bridge, are in
tolerable order; but the upper chambers of the former are much battered,
and the staircases rendered inaccessible, above a certain height, by the
absence of the newels, and the fracture of the stone steps. The great pier
stands alone, but the outer semi-pier is encumbered with cottages. The outer
and eastern moat, now of no great depth, is still marshy. At its northern end
the sides are cultivated; towards the southern, cottages are built in it.
Between these two portions, north of the pier, is the modern entrance,
passing through the water gate, now a battered hole 11 feet wide: near it a
door has been opened into a sort of cavity below the lower story of the
gatehouse, used as a cart hovel. The foundations of the southern curtain,
being in the moat, are tolerably perfect. Those of the northern, elevated
upon a bank of earth, are much battered.
The tête-du-pont, in which the southern curtain terminates, has suffered
considerably. The curvilinear wall between the towers is levelled to a
breastwork, and the side of the portal towards the lake has been blown quite
away, as has been also the entrance and part of the floor of the neighbouring
D-shaped tower.
The northern limb of the bifurcated wall, proceeding from the postern,
has been blown out of the perpendicular; and, although there is no great
danger of its fall, the loose stones adjoining its fissure are a source of
danger to the antiquary who may attempt to scale it. Cottages are clustered
against the outside of this wall, and its re-entering angle is occupied by a
pigstye.
South of the castle, west of the tête-du-pont, the land on the back of the
lake is partly in tillage, and partly occupied by cottages; on the north, to the
west of the sally-port, the wall between the outer and second moat is
reduced to a line of foundation. The peculiar thickness of this wall, where it
has served the purpose of a dam, is well seen. The outer moat has, in this
direction, been encroached upon by the Nant-Garw road, which tops its
two at the southern extremity are laid prostrate, with their connecting
curtain, 15 feet in thickness, forming a chasm, through which the Nant-y-
Gledyr takes its undisturbed course. The object of this destruction, which
was permanently to empty the lake, has been gained. It is now a meadow.
The lower story of the grand gatehouse, and the piers of its bridge, are in
tolerable order; but the upper chambers of the former are much battered,
and the staircases rendered inaccessible, above a certain height, by the
absence of the newels, and the fracture of the stone steps. The great pier
stands alone, but the outer semi-pier is encumbered with cottages. The outer
and eastern moat, now of no great depth, is still marshy. At its northern end
the sides are cultivated; towards the southern, cottages are built in it.
Between these two portions, north of the pier, is the modern entrance,
passing through the water gate, now a battered hole 11 feet wide: near it a
door has been opened into a sort of cavity below the lower story of the
gatehouse, used as a cart hovel. The foundations of the southern curtain,
being in the moat, are tolerably perfect. Those of the northern, elevated
upon a bank of earth, are much battered.
The tête-du-pont, in which the southern curtain terminates, has suffered
considerably. The curvilinear wall between the towers is levelled to a
breastwork, and the side of the portal towards the lake has been blown quite
away, as has been also the entrance and part of the floor of the neighbouring
D-shaped tower.
The northern limb of the bifurcated wall, proceeding from the postern,
has been blown out of the perpendicular; and, although there is no great
danger of its fall, the loose stones adjoining its fissure are a source of
danger to the antiquary who may attempt to scale it. Cottages are clustered
against the outside of this wall, and its re-entering angle is occupied by a
pigstye.
South of the castle, west of the tête-du-pont, the land on the back of the
lake is partly in tillage, and partly occupied by cottages; on the north, to the
west of the sally-port, the wall between the outer and second moat is
reduced to a line of foundation. The peculiar thickness of this wall, where it
has served the purpose of a dam, is well seen. The outer moat has, in this
direction, been encroached upon by the Nant-Garw road, which tops its
Page 388
counterscarp for about 100 yards. The mill is levelled to the ground. A dry
watercourse, and the tunnel enlarged into a breach, still mark the ancient
exit of its waters. The drainage of the lake was, of course, fatal to the mill.
The modern miller of Caerphilly has removed to the outside of the great
southern breach, where he takes advantage of the Nant-y-Gledyr.
The horn-work covering the western entrance remains in excellent
preservation, and its revetment, except where in part quarried, is nearly as
sound as ever, although its gatehouse and western pier, if ever they existed,
have been destroyed. They were probably of timber. The moat, to the west
of the horn-work, being still in wet weather the channel of a rivulet, is
overgrown with reeds and aquatic plants; to the east or castle side it is
swampy in wet weather; and on the south is the bed of the ancient
inundation, now a plain of sward, across which a path leads to a spring.
Along the exterior line of defence to the north-west, the redoubt, fosses,
and adjacent earthworks are obscured by young trees and brushwood, by
the effects of tillage, and by the buildings of the castle farm.
Entering the castle by the east water gate, the wall parallel to the curtain
which formed the back of the northern or stable gallery is seen on the right,
levelled nearly with the soil, and, consequently, all regular access to the
buttress chambers is thus cut off.
The counterscarp of the inner moat is in ruins, choking up the moat. All
vestiges of the eastern drawbridge between the grand front and the middle
ward have disappeared.
The flanking towers of the eastern gatehouse of the middle ward are
destroyed, that on the south completely, and that on the north very nearly
so, the ruins of the singular building attached to it having prevented its
entire destruction.
At the opposite or western extremity of this ward, the gatehouse is in
rather better condition. The portal has been broken away below, but the
hollow semi-piers connecting it with the horn-work remain. The front of
this gatehouse, of great thickness, is perfect, and is garnished with a pair of
chimneys; its inner part has been destroyed. The windows in the front are
the only vestiges of the upper story.
watercourse, and the tunnel enlarged into a breach, still mark the ancient
exit of its waters. The drainage of the lake was, of course, fatal to the mill.
The modern miller of Caerphilly has removed to the outside of the great
southern breach, where he takes advantage of the Nant-y-Gledyr.
The horn-work covering the western entrance remains in excellent
preservation, and its revetment, except where in part quarried, is nearly as
sound as ever, although its gatehouse and western pier, if ever they existed,
have been destroyed. They were probably of timber. The moat, to the west
of the horn-work, being still in wet weather the channel of a rivulet, is
overgrown with reeds and aquatic plants; to the east or castle side it is
swampy in wet weather; and on the south is the bed of the ancient
inundation, now a plain of sward, across which a path leads to a spring.
Along the exterior line of defence to the north-west, the redoubt, fosses,
and adjacent earthworks are obscured by young trees and brushwood, by
the effects of tillage, and by the buildings of the castle farm.
Entering the castle by the east water gate, the wall parallel to the curtain
which formed the back of the northern or stable gallery is seen on the right,
levelled nearly with the soil, and, consequently, all regular access to the
buttress chambers is thus cut off.
The counterscarp of the inner moat is in ruins, choking up the moat. All
vestiges of the eastern drawbridge between the grand front and the middle
ward have disappeared.
The flanking towers of the eastern gatehouse of the middle ward are
destroyed, that on the south completely, and that on the north very nearly
so, the ruins of the singular building attached to it having prevented its
entire destruction.
At the opposite or western extremity of this ward, the gatehouse is in
rather better condition. The portal has been broken away below, but the
hollow semi-piers connecting it with the horn-work remain. The front of
this gatehouse, of great thickness, is perfect, and is garnished with a pair of
chimneys; its inner part has been destroyed. The windows in the front are
the only vestiges of the upper story.
Page 389
On the north front of this ward the curtain is much shattered by the fall of
the inner towers, and, as all the bastions have been ruined and blown up,
their exact line of boundary is scarcely traceable.
Upon the southern side, the wide lake and the strength of the outbuildings
have, in some degree, preserved the curtain, but the doorway of the water
gate, which opens in it, is much injured. A few feet below its sill, a long
black stain marks the height of the water in former times, and gives about 9
feet as the average depth of the lake.
The gallery, kitchens, &c., which occupy this side, are much injured; but
in front of the great oven a portion of the parapet remains, here about 12
feet high, and furnished with a loop.
The tank remains, though nearly choked up with stones and brambles.
Since the fall of the adjacent wall of the bastion, its position has been
insecure. Recently its wall has cracked, and, unless repaired, it may be
expected soon to fall into the moat.
Ascending from the eastern gatehouse, across a mass of almost
untraceable ruins, the central ward of the castle is entered.
With the exception of a partial breach on the northern side, the curtains of
this inner ward have suffered but little, and the height of the parapet and
rerewall may still be inferred, by the projections at its junction with the
towers.
The eastern gatehouse has been separated by a blast into two portions; of
which the inner, towering to a prodigious height, still remains tolerably
perfect; while the outer, broken into fragments, has crushed the lower
gatehouse beneath its weight, and still encumbers it with its ruins.
The western gatehouse has been more fortunate; the staircases, however,
are broken and irregular, and the vaulting injured. Through the floor of its
central apartment a hole has been broken into the vaults of the portal, and of
one of the lodges beneath.
In the floor of the Braose or triforial gallery are two large holes which
open upon a staircase and passage below.
The buildings within the court have suffered severely. The hall is covered
by a temporary roof, but the structure of its ancient roof is apparent from
the inner towers, and, as all the bastions have been ruined and blown up,
their exact line of boundary is scarcely traceable.
Upon the southern side, the wide lake and the strength of the outbuildings
have, in some degree, preserved the curtain, but the doorway of the water
gate, which opens in it, is much injured. A few feet below its sill, a long
black stain marks the height of the water in former times, and gives about 9
feet as the average depth of the lake.
The gallery, kitchens, &c., which occupy this side, are much injured; but
in front of the great oven a portion of the parapet remains, here about 12
feet high, and furnished with a loop.
The tank remains, though nearly choked up with stones and brambles.
Since the fall of the adjacent wall of the bastion, its position has been
insecure. Recently its wall has cracked, and, unless repaired, it may be
expected soon to fall into the moat.
Ascending from the eastern gatehouse, across a mass of almost
untraceable ruins, the central ward of the castle is entered.
With the exception of a partial breach on the northern side, the curtains of
this inner ward have suffered but little, and the height of the parapet and
rerewall may still be inferred, by the projections at its junction with the
towers.
The eastern gatehouse has been separated by a blast into two portions; of
which the inner, towering to a prodigious height, still remains tolerably
perfect; while the outer, broken into fragments, has crushed the lower
gatehouse beneath its weight, and still encumbers it with its ruins.
The western gatehouse has been more fortunate; the staircases, however,
are broken and irregular, and the vaulting injured. Through the floor of its
central apartment a hole has been broken into the vaults of the portal, and of
one of the lodges beneath.
In the floor of the Braose or triforial gallery are two large holes which
open upon a staircase and passage below.
The buildings within the court have suffered severely. The hall is covered
by a temporary roof, but the structure of its ancient roof is apparent from
Page 390
the remaining corbels. The pavement has been long removed: the sills of the
windows have been cut away, and the tracery and mouldings which adorned
them are broken and defaced.
A window and door at the east end have been shattered into one, and the
vaulted passage leading to the offices is a shapeless and rugged hole.
The vaulted roof of the kitchen is broken, but enough remains to display
its original structure. The steps of the water-gate gallery have been
removed, but the vaulted roof is but little injured.
In the great court a depression in the sward indicates the ancient well. It
has lately been opened a few feet down, but nothing of importance was
discovered.
The four bastion towers of this ward deserve special notice, since it is the
position of one of them which has conferred upon this castle much of the
notoriety it possesses.
That these four towers have been mined and blown up with gunpowder,
at some period when the effects of that agent were well understood, is
evident on inspection. The mine has been sprung near the centre of each
tower, and has produced effects, differing in degree only, upon each. That
on the north-east is altogether levelled, on the outside, entirely to the
ground, crushing in its descent the very bastion on which its foundation
rested—on the inside, the door and a portion of wall, as high as the curtain,
only remain. The destruction of the north-western tower has not been by
any means so complete. Only a third of its outer circumference has fallen,
and the rest, deprived indeed of its floors, remains as firm as ever. The
portion which has fallen lies in fragments upon the neighbouring bastion.
At the south-western tower the mine has operated outwards; the whole of
the outer portion has fallen upon the bastion and into the ditch, but the inner
strip connecting it with the rest of the building, and containing the entrances
to the several stories, has been protected by the outbuildings on its southern
side, and is unshaken.
The last, or south-eastern, is the celebrated leaning tower, the obliquity of
which has been much exaggerated, and absurdly accounted for. In the case
of this tower the mine has exploded in a contrary direction from the rest,
and the inner portion, with the adjoining curtain, has been thrown into the
windows have been cut away, and the tracery and mouldings which adorned
them are broken and defaced.
A window and door at the east end have been shattered into one, and the
vaulted passage leading to the offices is a shapeless and rugged hole.
The vaulted roof of the kitchen is broken, but enough remains to display
its original structure. The steps of the water-gate gallery have been
removed, but the vaulted roof is but little injured.
In the great court a depression in the sward indicates the ancient well. It
has lately been opened a few feet down, but nothing of importance was
discovered.
The four bastion towers of this ward deserve special notice, since it is the
position of one of them which has conferred upon this castle much of the
notoriety it possesses.
That these four towers have been mined and blown up with gunpowder,
at some period when the effects of that agent were well understood, is
evident on inspection. The mine has been sprung near the centre of each
tower, and has produced effects, differing in degree only, upon each. That
on the north-east is altogether levelled, on the outside, entirely to the
ground, crushing in its descent the very bastion on which its foundation
rested—on the inside, the door and a portion of wall, as high as the curtain,
only remain. The destruction of the north-western tower has not been by
any means so complete. Only a third of its outer circumference has fallen,
and the rest, deprived indeed of its floors, remains as firm as ever. The
portion which has fallen lies in fragments upon the neighbouring bastion.
At the south-western tower the mine has operated outwards; the whole of
the outer portion has fallen upon the bastion and into the ditch, but the inner
strip connecting it with the rest of the building, and containing the entrances
to the several stories, has been protected by the outbuildings on its southern
side, and is unshaken.
The last, or south-eastern, is the celebrated leaning tower, the obliquity of
which has been much exaggerated, and absurdly accounted for. In the case
of this tower the mine has exploded in a contrary direction from the rest,
and the inner portion, with the adjoining curtain, has been thrown into the
Page 391
court, while the outer portion remains standing, although the force of the
explosion has thrown the mass out of the perpendicular, so that it overhangs
its base, towards the south-west, nine feet. The parapet at its summit
remains quite perfect, and is the only one in the castle that is so.
The neighbourhood of these four towers, and the intervening gatehouses,
upon which the force of the gunpowder has been chiefly employed, is a
chaos of ruins; subverted masses of the gallery, staircases, the vaulting of
large portions of the chambers themselves, lie in confusion upon the
ground; and the thin mantle of vegetation which has enveloped them,
although it adds much to their picturesque beauty, increases in no slight
degree the difficulty of accurately comprehending their original disposition.
Throughout this immense building the iron work, even to the staples of
the doorways, has been removed; nor is there any lead to be found in the
sockets of the window-bars.
The hewn stone forming the door-frames, window-cases, newels of the
well-staircases, and in some instances the stairs themselves, have been
rudely wrenched away, with damage to the walls, for the purpose, probably,
of converting them into lime.
Portcullises, stockades, doors, with the roof of the hall, and every particle
of timber in the place, have long been removed. Every staircase, gallery,
and chamber is pervious to the rain, and exposed to the pernicious force of
the frost, yet such and so durable are the materials, and so firm the mortar
with which the whole is cemented, that time and weather alone have
produced but trifling injuries upon the pile, compared with the wilful
destruction of the hand of man.
Before arriving at any general conclusion respecting the age of
Caerphilly, it will be proper to make a few remarks upon certain details, on
which those conclusions in some measure rest.
And first of the doorways. With certain exceptions shortly to be
enumerated, the doorways throughout the building are of the same general
character. The arches are “drop,” that is to say, they are obtusely pointed
arches, whose centres lie below their spring. This is obviously the best form
of the pointed arch for the portals of a castle, and it is that usually employed
in the military structures of the Edwardian period. With the same
explosion has thrown the mass out of the perpendicular, so that it overhangs
its base, towards the south-west, nine feet. The parapet at its summit
remains quite perfect, and is the only one in the castle that is so.
The neighbourhood of these four towers, and the intervening gatehouses,
upon which the force of the gunpowder has been chiefly employed, is a
chaos of ruins; subverted masses of the gallery, staircases, the vaulting of
large portions of the chambers themselves, lie in confusion upon the
ground; and the thin mantle of vegetation which has enveloped them,
although it adds much to their picturesque beauty, increases in no slight
degree the difficulty of accurately comprehending their original disposition.
Throughout this immense building the iron work, even to the staples of
the doorways, has been removed; nor is there any lead to be found in the
sockets of the window-bars.
The hewn stone forming the door-frames, window-cases, newels of the
well-staircases, and in some instances the stairs themselves, have been
rudely wrenched away, with damage to the walls, for the purpose, probably,
of converting them into lime.
Portcullises, stockades, doors, with the roof of the hall, and every particle
of timber in the place, have long been removed. Every staircase, gallery,
and chamber is pervious to the rain, and exposed to the pernicious force of
the frost, yet such and so durable are the materials, and so firm the mortar
with which the whole is cemented, that time and weather alone have
produced but trifling injuries upon the pile, compared with the wilful
destruction of the hand of man.
Before arriving at any general conclusion respecting the age of
Caerphilly, it will be proper to make a few remarks upon certain details, on
which those conclusions in some measure rest.
And first of the doorways. With certain exceptions shortly to be
enumerated, the doorways throughout the building are of the same general
character. The arches are “drop,” that is to say, they are obtusely pointed
arches, whose centres lie below their spring. This is obviously the best form
of the pointed arch for the portals of a castle, and it is that usually employed
in the military structures of the Edwardian period. With the same
Page 392
exceptions, the arch-mouldings are composed of a five-sided rib, upon the
front and widest face of which a smaller rib, of the same figure, is placed.
This pattern of rib-moulding is also very commonly employed in castles.
The principal portals, together with the doors leading from the first story
of the towers upon the ramparts, are defended by portcullises, working in a
D-shaped groove. This groove passes up as a chase or slot into the chamber
above; but there is no evidence of the sort of contrivance employed in
raising the portcullis. The portcullis, however, might have been raised by
mere manual exertion, and a bar thrust across would be sufficient to retain it
securely when raised. The sills are destroyed, so that it does not appear
whether the points of the portcullis were received into, or had worn, small
holes in them. Besides the portcullis, the larger portals are provided with a
chase, but without side grooves, intended, as is presumed, to allow of the
use of a sort of wooden frame. Also, in the main portals are four or five
square holes or meurtrières in the arch, through which beams to form a
stockade might be dropped. It may be observed further that although some
of the portal passages are of considerable length, yet the ribs of their vaults
are all transverse, never passing diagonally from an angle towards the
centre, in the manner employed at Caldecot and elsewhere, to vault a
compartment of such passages.
There appears to have been more than one kind of drawbridge employed
in this castle. In some places, as at the great gate, and at the passage in its
gatehouse tower, the bridge, when drawn up, fitted into a depression, so as
to lie flush with the upper wall, from whence, therefore, its length may be
inferred. In other cases it simply rested against the wall, making a
projection. It seems always to have been long enough, when up, to cover
the gateway.
The method of hanging the bridge also varied. On the sides of some of
the portals a stone has been inserted, into which the horizontal pivots of the
bridge (of iron, from the small size of the pintle or hole) fitted; but,
connected with the place for the gudgeon or pivot is another groove, which
passes up at an angle of forty-five degrees for a few feet, and then passes on
horizontally for a few more. It appears as though this were a contrivance,
when the bridge was raised, for throwing its lower end upwards and
forwards, so as more effectually to shield the upper part of the door, to
present an oblique surface to missiles, and, by making the bridge lean back
front and widest face of which a smaller rib, of the same figure, is placed.
This pattern of rib-moulding is also very commonly employed in castles.
The principal portals, together with the doors leading from the first story
of the towers upon the ramparts, are defended by portcullises, working in a
D-shaped groove. This groove passes up as a chase or slot into the chamber
above; but there is no evidence of the sort of contrivance employed in
raising the portcullis. The portcullis, however, might have been raised by
mere manual exertion, and a bar thrust across would be sufficient to retain it
securely when raised. The sills are destroyed, so that it does not appear
whether the points of the portcullis were received into, or had worn, small
holes in them. Besides the portcullis, the larger portals are provided with a
chase, but without side grooves, intended, as is presumed, to allow of the
use of a sort of wooden frame. Also, in the main portals are four or five
square holes or meurtrières in the arch, through which beams to form a
stockade might be dropped. It may be observed further that although some
of the portal passages are of considerable length, yet the ribs of their vaults
are all transverse, never passing diagonally from an angle towards the
centre, in the manner employed at Caldecot and elsewhere, to vault a
compartment of such passages.
There appears to have been more than one kind of drawbridge employed
in this castle. In some places, as at the great gate, and at the passage in its
gatehouse tower, the bridge, when drawn up, fitted into a depression, so as
to lie flush with the upper wall, from whence, therefore, its length may be
inferred. In other cases it simply rested against the wall, making a
projection. It seems always to have been long enough, when up, to cover
the gateway.
The method of hanging the bridge also varied. On the sides of some of
the portals a stone has been inserted, into which the horizontal pivots of the
bridge (of iron, from the small size of the pintle or hole) fitted; but,
connected with the place for the gudgeon or pivot is another groove, which
passes up at an angle of forty-five degrees for a few feet, and then passes on
horizontally for a few more. It appears as though this were a contrivance,
when the bridge was raised, for throwing its lower end upwards and
forwards, so as more effectually to shield the upper part of the door, to
present an oblique surface to missiles, and, by making the bridge lean back
Page 393
against the wall, to remove the strain from its chains or ropes, and to
prevent it from falling, even should they be broken. It may be, however, that
into these grooves fitted some lever, or other contrivance for working the
bridge; where they occur, there are no holes above for the passage of the
drawbridge chains into the portcullis chamber. Similar grooves are seen in
the upper gatehouse at Chepstow.
The defences of the great, or water, postern are singular. The grooves,
which in other cases form the portcullis slides, here stop abruptly a little
above the arch. They are too deep for the hinges of gates, and were
probably filled by a defence similar to a portcullis, but which was received
into a cavity below. Indeed, as there is only a lofty wall, and no chamber
above the postern, the regular plan was inadmissible.
There is a further contrivance for the defence of a gate, consisting of a
sort of shoot, opening obliquely downwards from the sill of a window,
employed in two places in this castle; one over the door of the eastern inner
gateway, and the other over the door of the north-west principal bastion
tower; in both cases evidently with a view to the defence of the towers
when the enemy had gained the inner court.
The battlements and parapets throughout the castle are of a very plain
description. They are massy and flat topped, the coping being a rough slab
of sandstone. The height and thickness, together with that of the rerewall
and the width of the rampart walk, may be always deduced from a careful
inspection of the walls or towers against which they terminate. The parapet
and rerewall are usually of the same height, and nearly as high as the top of
the doors leading to them.
The embrasures are contained within parallel sides, and bear a small
proportion to the merlons, which latter are each perforated by a loop. These
details may be seen upon the summit of the leaning tower, or, more
conveniently, upon the northern curtain, toward the north-west bastion
tower. It is evident, from the unfinished character of the battlements, and
the flat undressed coping, that they were intended to be masked by an
exterior gallery, or brattice of wood, resting on the stone corbels which still
remain. For this reason there are no machicolations in stone, or devices for
dropping missiles through the floor of a projecting parapet—a contrivance
which adds so materially to the grandeur of the towers of Warwick, Raglan,
prevent it from falling, even should they be broken. It may be, however, that
into these grooves fitted some lever, or other contrivance for working the
bridge; where they occur, there are no holes above for the passage of the
drawbridge chains into the portcullis chamber. Similar grooves are seen in
the upper gatehouse at Chepstow.
The defences of the great, or water, postern are singular. The grooves,
which in other cases form the portcullis slides, here stop abruptly a little
above the arch. They are too deep for the hinges of gates, and were
probably filled by a defence similar to a portcullis, but which was received
into a cavity below. Indeed, as there is only a lofty wall, and no chamber
above the postern, the regular plan was inadmissible.
There is a further contrivance for the defence of a gate, consisting of a
sort of shoot, opening obliquely downwards from the sill of a window,
employed in two places in this castle; one over the door of the eastern inner
gateway, and the other over the door of the north-west principal bastion
tower; in both cases evidently with a view to the defence of the towers
when the enemy had gained the inner court.
The battlements and parapets throughout the castle are of a very plain
description. They are massy and flat topped, the coping being a rough slab
of sandstone. The height and thickness, together with that of the rerewall
and the width of the rampart walk, may be always deduced from a careful
inspection of the walls or towers against which they terminate. The parapet
and rerewall are usually of the same height, and nearly as high as the top of
the doors leading to them.
The embrasures are contained within parallel sides, and bear a small
proportion to the merlons, which latter are each perforated by a loop. These
details may be seen upon the summit of the leaning tower, or, more
conveniently, upon the northern curtain, toward the north-west bastion
tower. It is evident, from the unfinished character of the battlements, and
the flat undressed coping, that they were intended to be masked by an
exterior gallery, or brattice of wood, resting on the stone corbels which still
remain. For this reason there are no machicolations in stone, or devices for
dropping missiles through the floor of a projecting parapet—a contrivance
which adds so materially to the grandeur of the towers of Warwick, Raglan,
Page 394
and Cardiff. Over the eastern middle gateway, the parapet has a false
machicolation, or slight projection, supported upon a table of corbel blocks,
but without apertures, or a projection sufficient to admit of any.
The windows, with certain exceptions, are either loops, or, if larger, of a
very plain character. In the hall, however, and in the large rooms of the two
inner gatehouses, they are very wide and lofty, and have been highly
ornamented. The two latter rooms are so much injured, and the windows so
mutilated, that it can only be said, that what little remains of ornament are
seen resemble in style the more perfect ornaments of the hall. The oratory
attached to the eastern inner gatehouse has a vaulted roof, divided into two
square compartments, supported by transverse and diagonal ribs. The two
windows towards the south are long and narrow, without a mullion, and
trefoiled; their mouldings are only an exterior chamfer. There are some
other windows in the gatehouses, looking towards the interior, which are
much shorter, but otherwise resemble this. The four hall windows are lofty
and well proportioned; they open to within four feet of the ground.
The exterior moulding of the windows is completely gone; that of the
door was discovered by removing the grass about its base.
The interior mouldings of the windows are extremely rich, owing to the
reduplication of the bands, to occupy the great thickness of the wall. The
angles of the mouldings are, at two depths, removed, and their place
occupied by a hollow groove, in which the pomegranate ornament is placed
at intervals, making up the circle by its projection. Beyond each of these
bands of pomegranates are pilaster strips, filleted at their angles, and
surmounted by small angular capitals: within is a handsome ogee canopy,
enriched with crockets and finials, in a very pure style.
The door has a good internal drip, but its inner moulding is composed of
only one band of ball flowers. The outer mouldings are rich. There are three
bands of pomegranates, which no doubt were continued, as in the windows,
round the arch; and between them are two rows of small disengaged
columns, with the circular concave pedestal. Of these only the pedestal
remains.
The fourteen corbels upon which the beams of the roof rested are
composed of three short clustered columns, connected by their posterior
half, and separated by a fillet and bold hollow; above they are crowned with
machicolation, or slight projection, supported upon a table of corbel blocks,
but without apertures, or a projection sufficient to admit of any.
The windows, with certain exceptions, are either loops, or, if larger, of a
very plain character. In the hall, however, and in the large rooms of the two
inner gatehouses, they are very wide and lofty, and have been highly
ornamented. The two latter rooms are so much injured, and the windows so
mutilated, that it can only be said, that what little remains of ornament are
seen resemble in style the more perfect ornaments of the hall. The oratory
attached to the eastern inner gatehouse has a vaulted roof, divided into two
square compartments, supported by transverse and diagonal ribs. The two
windows towards the south are long and narrow, without a mullion, and
trefoiled; their mouldings are only an exterior chamfer. There are some
other windows in the gatehouses, looking towards the interior, which are
much shorter, but otherwise resemble this. The four hall windows are lofty
and well proportioned; they open to within four feet of the ground.
The exterior moulding of the windows is completely gone; that of the
door was discovered by removing the grass about its base.
The interior mouldings of the windows are extremely rich, owing to the
reduplication of the bands, to occupy the great thickness of the wall. The
angles of the mouldings are, at two depths, removed, and their place
occupied by a hollow groove, in which the pomegranate ornament is placed
at intervals, making up the circle by its projection. Beyond each of these
bands of pomegranates are pilaster strips, filleted at their angles, and
surmounted by small angular capitals: within is a handsome ogee canopy,
enriched with crockets and finials, in a very pure style.
The door has a good internal drip, but its inner moulding is composed of
only one band of ball flowers. The outer mouldings are rich. There are three
bands of pomegranates, which no doubt were continued, as in the windows,
round the arch; and between them are two rows of small disengaged
columns, with the circular concave pedestal. Of these only the pedestal
remains.
The fourteen corbels upon which the beams of the roof rested are
composed of three short clustered columns, connected by their posterior
half, and separated by a fillet and bold hollow; above they are crowned with
Page 395
a neat cap moulding, and below, they rest upon three projecting busts, of
which the central is the lowest and largest. A fillet runs up the centre of each
of these columns, and, pausing at the abacus, is continued up the capital,
and finally dies in the astragal. Corbels, of somewhat earlier date, but in
general appearance resembling these, may be seen in the keep at Chepstow.
There are no decorations remaining about the fireplace. The plain
stringcourse along the east end of the hall, returned from the corbel of the
chapel window, is perfect. A base tablet is seen at the west end of the north
side, but it is destroyed along its length.
A long window in one of the staterooms resembles, though on a much
larger scale, the windows of the oratory already described. It appears,
however, to have been trefoiled, with a quatrefoil above the head.
There are two small polygonal apartments on either side of the inner
western gate, in the vaulted roofs of which a plain diagonal rib rises from a
corbel at each angle, and meets its fellow in the centre. The corbels have
three flat faces, and terminate in a point, which rests upon some animal, in
every case wantonly defaced. They appear to have been lodges.
Caerphilly presents as little architectural decoration, in proportion to its
extent, as any castellated building in Britain.
Generally, its series of concentric defences, and the general disposition of
its constituent parts, resemble those of Harlech and Beaumaris. The plan of
these concentric castles is very peculiar. It is unlike the earlier Norman
castles, in which the keep was the principal feature, and in which comfort
was sacrificed to safety; and it is also unlike the later castles, which possess
not only large interior, but large exterior, windows, as at Sheriff-Hutton, and
in which there is no building to which the name of keep could be attached.
Nor is the style of architecture employed at Caerphilly less characteristic
of its age; the drop arch, the perfectly plain rib, the general absence of
decorations and armorial bearings, the plain battlements, and the absence of
machicolations, indicate generally the same period.
The columns of the hall doorway, the concave moulding of their
pedestals, the triple cluster of columns forming the corbels of the roof, their
bell capitals, and light cap moulding, are due to the Early English style,
which prevailed from 1189 to 1307.
which the central is the lowest and largest. A fillet runs up the centre of each
of these columns, and, pausing at the abacus, is continued up the capital,
and finally dies in the astragal. Corbels, of somewhat earlier date, but in
general appearance resembling these, may be seen in the keep at Chepstow.
There are no decorations remaining about the fireplace. The plain
stringcourse along the east end of the hall, returned from the corbel of the
chapel window, is perfect. A base tablet is seen at the west end of the north
side, but it is destroyed along its length.
A long window in one of the staterooms resembles, though on a much
larger scale, the windows of the oratory already described. It appears,
however, to have been trefoiled, with a quatrefoil above the head.
There are two small polygonal apartments on either side of the inner
western gate, in the vaulted roofs of which a plain diagonal rib rises from a
corbel at each angle, and meets its fellow in the centre. The corbels have
three flat faces, and terminate in a point, which rests upon some animal, in
every case wantonly defaced. They appear to have been lodges.
Caerphilly presents as little architectural decoration, in proportion to its
extent, as any castellated building in Britain.
Generally, its series of concentric defences, and the general disposition of
its constituent parts, resemble those of Harlech and Beaumaris. The plan of
these concentric castles is very peculiar. It is unlike the earlier Norman
castles, in which the keep was the principal feature, and in which comfort
was sacrificed to safety; and it is also unlike the later castles, which possess
not only large interior, but large exterior, windows, as at Sheriff-Hutton, and
in which there is no building to which the name of keep could be attached.
Nor is the style of architecture employed at Caerphilly less characteristic
of its age; the drop arch, the perfectly plain rib, the general absence of
decorations and armorial bearings, the plain battlements, and the absence of
machicolations, indicate generally the same period.
The columns of the hall doorway, the concave moulding of their
pedestals, the triple cluster of columns forming the corbels of the roof, their
bell capitals, and light cap moulding, are due to the Early English style,
which prevailed from 1189 to 1307.
Page 396
On the other hand, the pomegranate moulding, the rich, though chaste
and somewhat stiff, canopies of the door and windows, the little pilasters in
the windows with the pentagonal capitals, the ogee arches, and the plain
fillet running up the columnar corbels of the roof, are marks all belonging
to the Decorated style, which prevailed from 1307 to 1377.
The mixture of these two styles, very common in English buildings,
denotes a period varying according to the preponderance of either, and in
the present instance may legitimately be referred to the latter quarter of the
thirteenth century, when the Decorated style was beginning to supersede the
Early English. Instances of this transition, and of the ball-flower, or
pomegranate, moulding, may be seen round the inside of the choir of
Bristol Cathedral, and on the outside of the south aisle of Keynsham
Church.
The earlier alterations at Chepstow, and more particularly the oratory
attached to Martin’s Tower, and the columnar corbels in the keep, may be
cited as of an earlier date than Caerphilly, having been evidently placed
there before the decline of the Early English style.
The internal evidence of the building, which would place its date about
the end of the reign of Henry III., agrees with the evidence of records cited
hereafter, in which the castle is referred to, in the year 1272, as having been
lately erected by Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester and Hertford.
Before this period, mention is occasionally made of the castle of
Senghenydd, which, from its having been taken, retaken, and more than
once utterly destroyed, was evidently a place much contested, but of no
great magnitude or passive strength. After the erection of Caerphilly,
Senghenydd Castle is not again mentioned. It is therefore not impossible
that Senghenydd Castle was a rude fortification of timber and undressed
stone, upon the peninsula afterwards occupied by Caerphilly.
Caerphilly having then certainly been founded by Earl Gilbert a little
before 1272, the question arises as to whether the whole of it was then built.
The inner ward, its curtains, bastions, gatehouses, with all their contents
and appendages, are of one date. The south wall was always of its present
height, and therefore always intended to support the roof of the hall, the
walls of which are bonded into it. The gatehouses are evidently part of the
and somewhat stiff, canopies of the door and windows, the little pilasters in
the windows with the pentagonal capitals, the ogee arches, and the plain
fillet running up the columnar corbels of the roof, are marks all belonging
to the Decorated style, which prevailed from 1307 to 1377.
The mixture of these two styles, very common in English buildings,
denotes a period varying according to the preponderance of either, and in
the present instance may legitimately be referred to the latter quarter of the
thirteenth century, when the Decorated style was beginning to supersede the
Early English. Instances of this transition, and of the ball-flower, or
pomegranate, moulding, may be seen round the inside of the choir of
Bristol Cathedral, and on the outside of the south aisle of Keynsham
Church.
The earlier alterations at Chepstow, and more particularly the oratory
attached to Martin’s Tower, and the columnar corbels in the keep, may be
cited as of an earlier date than Caerphilly, having been evidently placed
there before the decline of the Early English style.
The internal evidence of the building, which would place its date about
the end of the reign of Henry III., agrees with the evidence of records cited
hereafter, in which the castle is referred to, in the year 1272, as having been
lately erected by Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester and Hertford.
Before this period, mention is occasionally made of the castle of
Senghenydd, which, from its having been taken, retaken, and more than
once utterly destroyed, was evidently a place much contested, but of no
great magnitude or passive strength. After the erection of Caerphilly,
Senghenydd Castle is not again mentioned. It is therefore not impossible
that Senghenydd Castle was a rude fortification of timber and undressed
stone, upon the peninsula afterwards occupied by Caerphilly.
Caerphilly having then certainly been founded by Earl Gilbert a little
before 1272, the question arises as to whether the whole of it was then built.
The inner ward, its curtains, bastions, gatehouses, with all their contents
and appendages, are of one date. The south wall was always of its present
height, and therefore always intended to support the roof of the hall, the
walls of which are bonded into it. The gatehouses are evidently part of the
Page 397
original plan, and the long windows of the staterooms, and those of the
oratory in the inner gatehouse are, in their form and mouldings, precisely
similar.
It appears that the curtain connecting the north-west bastion tower with
the west gatehouse was originally as low as the northern curtain, but that a
sort of gallery, and its superincumbent rampart, have been added. A cluster
of buildings has also been added on the outside of the south curtain, at the
angle formed by its junction with the south-west tower.
The general design of the middle ward, and most of its buildings, are
clearly of the date of the inner ward. The western gatehouse, however,
appears to be of somewhat later date; the false machicolations, the holes for
the portcullis chains, the chimneys rising above the parapet, and the less
durable character of the masonry, seem to indicate this. The walls,
moreover, by means of which this gatehouse is connected with the curtain
of the inner ballium, though of the same age with the former, are not
bonded into, and are separated by fissures from, the latter—a tolerably sure
indication of difference of age.
It is not improbable that the whole exterior line of defence on the east,
and the horn-work on the west, were the last parts of the castle completed.
They form, however, parts of the original design, since, had the ground on
which they stand been left unoccupied, the castle would not have been
tenable.
With respect to the redoubt, it is perfectly evident, from its appearance,
that it was thrown up, not only when gunpowder was in general use, but
when the science of fortification was pretty well understood. It seems, like
the earthworks at Donnington and other castles, to be of the age of Charles
I.
The injuries received by this castle are similar to others at Corfe and
elsewhere, known to be referable to the same period of civil strife in which
the battle of St. Fagan’s, and the occupation of Cardiff, prove the men of
Glamorgan to have taken an active part. Nothing, therefore, seems more
probable than that the redoubt should have been thrown up hastily by one
party for the defence of the castle, and that the dismantling of the whole
should have been perpetrated by the other, to prevent such a defence being
practicable in future. Though history has afforded no clue as to the one of
oratory in the inner gatehouse are, in their form and mouldings, precisely
similar.
It appears that the curtain connecting the north-west bastion tower with
the west gatehouse was originally as low as the northern curtain, but that a
sort of gallery, and its superincumbent rampart, have been added. A cluster
of buildings has also been added on the outside of the south curtain, at the
angle formed by its junction with the south-west tower.
The general design of the middle ward, and most of its buildings, are
clearly of the date of the inner ward. The western gatehouse, however,
appears to be of somewhat later date; the false machicolations, the holes for
the portcullis chains, the chimneys rising above the parapet, and the less
durable character of the masonry, seem to indicate this. The walls,
moreover, by means of which this gatehouse is connected with the curtain
of the inner ballium, though of the same age with the former, are not
bonded into, and are separated by fissures from, the latter—a tolerably sure
indication of difference of age.
It is not improbable that the whole exterior line of defence on the east,
and the horn-work on the west, were the last parts of the castle completed.
They form, however, parts of the original design, since, had the ground on
which they stand been left unoccupied, the castle would not have been
tenable.
With respect to the redoubt, it is perfectly evident, from its appearance,
that it was thrown up, not only when gunpowder was in general use, but
when the science of fortification was pretty well understood. It seems, like
the earthworks at Donnington and other castles, to be of the age of Charles
I.
The injuries received by this castle are similar to others at Corfe and
elsewhere, known to be referable to the same period of civil strife in which
the battle of St. Fagan’s, and the occupation of Cardiff, prove the men of
Glamorgan to have taken an active part. Nothing, therefore, seems more
probable than that the redoubt should have been thrown up hastily by one
party for the defence of the castle, and that the dismantling of the whole
should have been perpetrated by the other, to prevent such a defence being
practicable in future. Though history has afforded no clue as to the one of
Page 398
the contending parties to which either proceeding is to be referred, there can
be no doubt but that the blowing up of the towers was the work of the
Parliament.
There seems no reason to suppose that the works of Caerphilly were
never completed. The flanking towers on either wing rest upon the lake, and
the horn-work is a sufficient defence in the opposite direction.
About three-quarters of a mile from Caerphilly, on the Rudry road, are
the ruins of the “Van,” or “Ffanvawr,” the ancient and very stately manor-
house of the Lewis family, the direct descendants in blood, and the heirs in
heritage, of Ivor Bach, on whose land Caerphilly was erected.
Most of the outer walls of the house, and a curious old dovecot, remain
standing. They are of the age of Elizabeth or James, but much of the hewn
stone employed in the windows, doorcases, quoins, and stringcourses of the
lower story, are either of oolite or Sutton stone, and are very evidently a
part of the spoils of Caerphilly. Most of these stones have been worked up,
and their original ornaments destroyed, but one long stringcourse of
Decorated date, evidently much earlier than the wall in which it is
embedded, extends along the west front of the house.
These stones could not have been removed from Caerphilly earlier than
the reign of Elizabeth, in which reign, or rather in that of Henry VIII., the
castle was used as a prison. Probably the central parts were so occupied,
and the parts allowed to be spoiled were those connected with the east front.
In appropriating the stones of Caerphilly to the erection of their manor-
house, the Lewis family, from whom the ground was originally wrested,
may have committed a breach of taste, but none had a better moral right to
help themselves from that source.
be no doubt but that the blowing up of the towers was the work of the
Parliament.
There seems no reason to suppose that the works of Caerphilly were
never completed. The flanking towers on either wing rest upon the lake, and
the horn-work is a sufficient defence in the opposite direction.
About three-quarters of a mile from Caerphilly, on the Rudry road, are
the ruins of the “Van,” or “Ffanvawr,” the ancient and very stately manor-
house of the Lewis family, the direct descendants in blood, and the heirs in
heritage, of Ivor Bach, on whose land Caerphilly was erected.
Most of the outer walls of the house, and a curious old dovecot, remain
standing. They are of the age of Elizabeth or James, but much of the hewn
stone employed in the windows, doorcases, quoins, and stringcourses of the
lower story, are either of oolite or Sutton stone, and are very evidently a
part of the spoils of Caerphilly. Most of these stones have been worked up,
and their original ornaments destroyed, but one long stringcourse of
Decorated date, evidently much earlier than the wall in which it is
embedded, extends along the west front of the house.
These stones could not have been removed from Caerphilly earlier than
the reign of Elizabeth, in which reign, or rather in that of Henry VIII., the
castle was used as a prison. Probably the central parts were so occupied,
and the parts allowed to be spoiled were those connected with the east front.
In appropriating the stones of Caerphilly to the erection of their manor-
house, the Lewis family, from whom the ground was originally wrested,
may have committed a breach of taste, but none had a better moral right to
help themselves from that source.
Page 399
CARDIFF CASTLE, GLAMORGAN.
THE castle of Cardiff, though not unknown to border fame, has been the
theatre of no great historical event, nor does it present any very striking
peculiarities of position, scenery, or structure. Its claim to more than local
interest rests upon the character and fortunes of the great barons whose
inheritance and occasional residence it was from the 11th to the 15th
century, from the reign of Rufus to that of Henry VI. Probably a Roman
castrum, and certainly a hold of the local British princes, it was won, in
1090, by the sword of Robert Fitzhamon, lord of the Honour of Gloucester,
and by him constituted the “caput” of his newly acquired seignory of
Morgan and Glamorgan.
Mabel, the heiress of Fitzhamon, conveyed his possessions, with her
hand, to Robert Consul, Earl of Gloucester, bastard son of Henry I., and the
reputed builder of the Norman parts of the castle.
They were succeeded by their son William, Earl of Gloucester, who died
1173, leaving daughters only; the inheritance was then for a time held by
King John, then Earl of Moreton, by marriage with Isabel, the youngest co-
heir; and on her divorce, soon after 1199, by Geoffrey de Mandeville, Earl
of Essex, who died, 1216. Isabel’s third husband was Hubert de Burgh, she
died childless.
Upon this, Almaric d’Evreux, who married Mabel, the elder co-heir,
became Earl of Gloucester; but Mabel’s issue also failed.
Amice, the second co-heir, had married Richard, head of the powerful
house of De Clare; and their son Gilbert, Earl of Hertford, thus finally
became Earl of Gloucester, lord of that honour, and possessor of the castle
of Cardiff. He died 1229.
Four earls of the race of Clare possessed Cardiff Castle for nearly a
century; and though chiefly resident at Clare and Tonbridge, did much to
adorn the castle and consolidate the seignory.
THE castle of Cardiff, though not unknown to border fame, has been the
theatre of no great historical event, nor does it present any very striking
peculiarities of position, scenery, or structure. Its claim to more than local
interest rests upon the character and fortunes of the great barons whose
inheritance and occasional residence it was from the 11th to the 15th
century, from the reign of Rufus to that of Henry VI. Probably a Roman
castrum, and certainly a hold of the local British princes, it was won, in
1090, by the sword of Robert Fitzhamon, lord of the Honour of Gloucester,
and by him constituted the “caput” of his newly acquired seignory of
Morgan and Glamorgan.
Mabel, the heiress of Fitzhamon, conveyed his possessions, with her
hand, to Robert Consul, Earl of Gloucester, bastard son of Henry I., and the
reputed builder of the Norman parts of the castle.
They were succeeded by their son William, Earl of Gloucester, who died
1173, leaving daughters only; the inheritance was then for a time held by
King John, then Earl of Moreton, by marriage with Isabel, the youngest co-
heir; and on her divorce, soon after 1199, by Geoffrey de Mandeville, Earl
of Essex, who died, 1216. Isabel’s third husband was Hubert de Burgh, she
died childless.
Upon this, Almaric d’Evreux, who married Mabel, the elder co-heir,
became Earl of Gloucester; but Mabel’s issue also failed.
Amice, the second co-heir, had married Richard, head of the powerful
house of De Clare; and their son Gilbert, Earl of Hertford, thus finally
became Earl of Gloucester, lord of that honour, and possessor of the castle
of Cardiff. He died 1229.
Four earls of the race of Clare possessed Cardiff Castle for nearly a
century; and though chiefly resident at Clare and Tonbridge, did much to
adorn the castle and consolidate the seignory.
Page 400
In 1320, Eleanor, the elder co-heir of the last De Clare, was married to
Hugh le Despenser the younger, the minion of Edward II. During the
minority or attainder of their son, Hugh d’Audley who had married the
second co-heir, had the earldom, and possibly held Cardiff at his death in
1347. The Despensers then reappeared in the person of Thomas, son of
Edward, who was son of Hugh and Eleanor de Clare. This Thomas was
created earl of Gloucester in 1397, and attainted and beheaded in 1400. His
son Richard, who succeeded, died a minor and childless, in 1414.
The earldom of Gloucester was not revived, but, including the first Hugh,
five members of this unfortunate race held the seignory and castle for
ninety-four years.
Isabel le Despenser, sister of Richard, and the final heiress, was born at
Cardiff Castle, which she did much to strengthen and embellish. She
married the cousins, Richard Beauchamp, earl of Worcester, and Richard
Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. The Earl of Worcester married before 1415–
16, and died about 1421, leaving a daughter, whose descendants became
barons Le Despenser in her right, but who did not inherit Cardiff. Countess
Isabel’s chief works at Cardiff were probably executed after her second
marriage, which took place before 1425. Her charter to Cardiff, as Countess
of Worcester, in 1423, confirms those of her paternal ancestors. Her son,
Henry, Duke of Warwick, succeeded his father in 1439, and died in 1446.
His heiress, Anne Beauchamp, had but a brief and nominal tenure of the
seignory, dying in 1449, an infant of six years.
The castle then descended to the representative of another Anne
Beauchamp, sister and heiress to the duke. She married Richard Nevile, the
great Earl of Salisbury and Warwick, who thus added Cardiff to his already
extensive possessions. One of the town charters, dated Cardiff Castle, 12th
March, 1451, was granted by Richard, Earl of Warwick, Lord le Despenser,
&c., and Anne his wife.
Upon the earl’s death, in 1471, Cardiff Castle fell to Anne, his younger
daughter and co-heir by Anne Beauchamp, in whose right her husband
Richard, Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III., became lord of
Cardiff Castle and the seignory, and in the latter capacity granted various
charters and confirmations yet extant.
Hugh le Despenser the younger, the minion of Edward II. During the
minority or attainder of their son, Hugh d’Audley who had married the
second co-heir, had the earldom, and possibly held Cardiff at his death in
1347. The Despensers then reappeared in the person of Thomas, son of
Edward, who was son of Hugh and Eleanor de Clare. This Thomas was
created earl of Gloucester in 1397, and attainted and beheaded in 1400. His
son Richard, who succeeded, died a minor and childless, in 1414.
The earldom of Gloucester was not revived, but, including the first Hugh,
five members of this unfortunate race held the seignory and castle for
ninety-four years.
Isabel le Despenser, sister of Richard, and the final heiress, was born at
Cardiff Castle, which she did much to strengthen and embellish. She
married the cousins, Richard Beauchamp, earl of Worcester, and Richard
Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. The Earl of Worcester married before 1415–
16, and died about 1421, leaving a daughter, whose descendants became
barons Le Despenser in her right, but who did not inherit Cardiff. Countess
Isabel’s chief works at Cardiff were probably executed after her second
marriage, which took place before 1425. Her charter to Cardiff, as Countess
of Worcester, in 1423, confirms those of her paternal ancestors. Her son,
Henry, Duke of Warwick, succeeded his father in 1439, and died in 1446.
His heiress, Anne Beauchamp, had but a brief and nominal tenure of the
seignory, dying in 1449, an infant of six years.
The castle then descended to the representative of another Anne
Beauchamp, sister and heiress to the duke. She married Richard Nevile, the
great Earl of Salisbury and Warwick, who thus added Cardiff to his already
extensive possessions. One of the town charters, dated Cardiff Castle, 12th
March, 1451, was granted by Richard, Earl of Warwick, Lord le Despenser,
&c., and Anne his wife.
Upon the earl’s death, in 1471, Cardiff Castle fell to Anne, his younger
daughter and co-heir by Anne Beauchamp, in whose right her husband
Richard, Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III., became lord of
Cardiff Castle and the seignory, and in the latter capacity granted various
charters and confirmations yet extant.
Page 401
Upon the fall and death of Richard, the claims by heirship were set aside
and the castle and seignory escheated to the Crown. They were
subsequently granted to Jasper Tudor, Duke of Bedford; but on his death, in
1495, again became crown property. The seignory, with its “jura regalia”
and prerogatives of marchership, was not again revived; but Henry VII. and
his son leased the lordship to Charles Somerset, who was residing at Cardiff
in 1513; and Edward VI. granted or sold the castle of Cardiff, with much of
the landed estate and the manorial rights of the old seignory, to William
Herbert, the first of the new earls of Pembroke, in whose heirs general the
whole has since remained.
The history of this long succession of powerful lords, most of whom set
their mark upon the great transactions of their age and country, has invested
the castle with something of historical interest; which, however, can
scarcely be extended to the particulars of the building itself, the subject of
the present paper.
The castle of Cardiff stands upon the broad gravel plain between the
rivers Taff and Rhymny, upon the left bank of, and two hundred yards from
the former stream, at about the lowest point at which, in ordinary seasons, it
is fordable.
The position, having a river in front and rear, and the sea close upon the
southern flank, is such as would be selected by a commander skilled in the
art of war, and enclosed in an enemy’s country; and such as, with
disciplined troops, would be impregnable.
These conditions, the name of the place, and its position upon the well-
known “via maritima,” are suggestive of a Roman origin; an opinion,
indeed, but moderately supported by scanty discoveries of Roman remains,
but in unison with the form and character of a part of the earthworks which
enter into the composition of the present castle.
These appear to have been a single lofty bank raised from an exterior
ditch, and enclosing much of three sides of a quadrangular space, of which
the fourth lies open towards the river; a practice by no means unusual in
Roman or “quasi-” Roman encampments. It is possible, though scarcely
probable, that the earthwork was once complete on the three sides down to
the river, and that the south-western part was destroyed to form a very
considerable mound, which still remains towering over the banks of the
and the castle and seignory escheated to the Crown. They were
subsequently granted to Jasper Tudor, Duke of Bedford; but on his death, in
1495, again became crown property. The seignory, with its “jura regalia”
and prerogatives of marchership, was not again revived; but Henry VII. and
his son leased the lordship to Charles Somerset, who was residing at Cardiff
in 1513; and Edward VI. granted or sold the castle of Cardiff, with much of
the landed estate and the manorial rights of the old seignory, to William
Herbert, the first of the new earls of Pembroke, in whose heirs general the
whole has since remained.
The history of this long succession of powerful lords, most of whom set
their mark upon the great transactions of their age and country, has invested
the castle with something of historical interest; which, however, can
scarcely be extended to the particulars of the building itself, the subject of
the present paper.
The castle of Cardiff stands upon the broad gravel plain between the
rivers Taff and Rhymny, upon the left bank of, and two hundred yards from
the former stream, at about the lowest point at which, in ordinary seasons, it
is fordable.
The position, having a river in front and rear, and the sea close upon the
southern flank, is such as would be selected by a commander skilled in the
art of war, and enclosed in an enemy’s country; and such as, with
disciplined troops, would be impregnable.
These conditions, the name of the place, and its position upon the well-
known “via maritima,” are suggestive of a Roman origin; an opinion,
indeed, but moderately supported by scanty discoveries of Roman remains,
but in unison with the form and character of a part of the earthworks which
enter into the composition of the present castle.
These appear to have been a single lofty bank raised from an exterior
ditch, and enclosing much of three sides of a quadrangular space, of which
the fourth lies open towards the river; a practice by no means unusual in
Roman or “quasi-” Roman encampments. It is possible, though scarcely
probable, that the earthwork was once complete on the three sides down to
the river, and that the south-western part was destroyed to form a very
considerable mound, which still remains towering over the banks of the
Page 402
enclosure, and is crowned by the shell of an early multangular keep.
Wallingford, Tamworth and Wareham are instances in which a quadrangular
earthwork has been in part retained and in part removed by the builders of a
Norman castle, and in each of which also there is a mound.
Whatever may have been its origin, the castle of Cardiff covers a plot of
ground nearly square in plan, being 200 yards east and west by 216 yards
north and south; and bounded on the north and east, and partially on the
south, sides, by banks of earth, and on the west and remainder of the south
side by a wall. The banks are about 30 feet high, 90 feet broad at the base,
and 12 feet at the summit, along which runs a light embattled wall about 6
feet high and 2 feet thick. This wall is mentioned by Meyric, in 1578, as in
decay, and it was rebuilt from its shallow foundation of only 2 feet in 1861.
It cannot have been intended as a serious military defence, and the recent
excavations did not reveal any traces of an older or more substantial work.
At the south-east, north-east, and north-west angles, the banks are
strengthened, possibly to carry towers, of which, however, no foundations
have been discovered. The earthwork is returned about 70 yards along the
south, and about 30 yards along the west, fronts, to give support to, and
cover the commencement of, the walls of those sides which, with an
inconsiderable exception, are evidently very ancient, and were probably
executed by Robert, Consul or Earl of Gloucester.
These walls are magnificent works, being 40 feet high and 10 feet thick,
and perfectly solid.
The main buildings of the castle are in the line and form a part of the
west wall. In the centre of the south side is the gateway, once of the outer
ward, now of the general inclosure, a mere arch in the curtain, and, in its
present form, probably of the age of Henry VIII., whose arms may have
occupied a square stone frame remaining above and on the outside of the
gate.
Close west of the gate is a lofty tower, apparently of early English or
early Decorated date, and restored by the late Lord Bute. This is the black
tower. Though so near the gate it is clear that it never had any direct
communication with it, nor was intended as a gatehouse. Meyric describes
it as a great tower, some stories high, and covered with lead, with two
chambers in each story, the lowest being prisons, known as Stavell-y-Oged
Wallingford, Tamworth and Wareham are instances in which a quadrangular
earthwork has been in part retained and in part removed by the builders of a
Norman castle, and in each of which also there is a mound.
Whatever may have been its origin, the castle of Cardiff covers a plot of
ground nearly square in plan, being 200 yards east and west by 216 yards
north and south; and bounded on the north and east, and partially on the
south, sides, by banks of earth, and on the west and remainder of the south
side by a wall. The banks are about 30 feet high, 90 feet broad at the base,
and 12 feet at the summit, along which runs a light embattled wall about 6
feet high and 2 feet thick. This wall is mentioned by Meyric, in 1578, as in
decay, and it was rebuilt from its shallow foundation of only 2 feet in 1861.
It cannot have been intended as a serious military defence, and the recent
excavations did not reveal any traces of an older or more substantial work.
At the south-east, north-east, and north-west angles, the banks are
strengthened, possibly to carry towers, of which, however, no foundations
have been discovered. The earthwork is returned about 70 yards along the
south, and about 30 yards along the west, fronts, to give support to, and
cover the commencement of, the walls of those sides which, with an
inconsiderable exception, are evidently very ancient, and were probably
executed by Robert, Consul or Earl of Gloucester.
These walls are magnificent works, being 40 feet high and 10 feet thick,
and perfectly solid.
The main buildings of the castle are in the line and form a part of the
west wall. In the centre of the south side is the gateway, once of the outer
ward, now of the general inclosure, a mere arch in the curtain, and, in its
present form, probably of the age of Henry VIII., whose arms may have
occupied a square stone frame remaining above and on the outside of the
gate.
Close west of the gate is a lofty tower, apparently of early English or
early Decorated date, and restored by the late Lord Bute. This is the black
tower. Though so near the gate it is clear that it never had any direct
communication with it, nor was intended as a gatehouse. Meyric describes
it as a great tower, some stories high, and covered with lead, with two
chambers in each story, the lowest being prisons, known as Stavell-y-Oged
Page 403
and Stavell Wen. One, the larger of these prisons, now disused, has a
pointed vault and a small loop, high up in the east wall. This tower has four
original entrances: one to each of the basement prisons, one from the
remains of the great curtain, and one from the ramparts of the castle wall.
All are on the north and western faces, and there is no doorway opening
towards the great gateway. It is thus clear that this tower, though placed
close to the gateway, was never used as a gatehouse.
The northern bank of the general enclosure presents a slight angle
outwards, and near the salient a tunnel has been cut through it. This was
done about thirty years ago, to give a carriage drive towards the
Senghenydd road.
Outside, at the foot of the bank, along the north, south, and east fronts,
was a wet ditch, anciently fed by the Taff through the intervention of the
mill leat. This moat covered the three fronts, extending as far as the north or
Senghenydd gate of the town. In the time of Meyric it was dry and silted up.
More recently the eastern portion has been to some extent superseded by
the Glamorganshire canal, and the northern, at a lower level, is now a part
of the feeder by which the river water is conveyed under the canal to the
Dock reservoir. The southern arm has been filled up and built over for many
centuries, and its existence is only known from the soft, black soil found in
occasional excavations. The mill leat which supplied the lord’s mill, at
which the people of Cardiff were bound to grind, and which was
occasionally used to flood the low ground for purposes of defence, still runs
along the west front of the castle. In the reign of Elizabeth there were three
grist-mills and a tucking-mill dependent upon the castle, and one grist-mill
was standing in 1660, but was afterwards replaced by a tanyard, removed in
1861, when the new lodge and town bridge were erected. The bridge then
destroyed was built about 1796, and replaced a structure of four stone
arches, probably of the age of Elizabeth (and referred to in certain Acts of
Parliament), placed rather above the castle; so that the high-road from it,
towards the west gate of the town, crossed the marsh by a causeway and the
leat by a bridge of three arches, and defiled close under the main buildings
of the castle. Part of the old gate of the town, with its iron gudgeons, may
still be seen in the brushwood a few yards in advance of the great tower,
showing how the road entered the town under the castle wall. A small Tudor
archway still remains on the right of the old entrance, nearly in a line with
pointed vault and a small loop, high up in the east wall. This tower has four
original entrances: one to each of the basement prisons, one from the
remains of the great curtain, and one from the ramparts of the castle wall.
All are on the north and western faces, and there is no doorway opening
towards the great gateway. It is thus clear that this tower, though placed
close to the gateway, was never used as a gatehouse.
The northern bank of the general enclosure presents a slight angle
outwards, and near the salient a tunnel has been cut through it. This was
done about thirty years ago, to give a carriage drive towards the
Senghenydd road.
Outside, at the foot of the bank, along the north, south, and east fronts,
was a wet ditch, anciently fed by the Taff through the intervention of the
mill leat. This moat covered the three fronts, extending as far as the north or
Senghenydd gate of the town. In the time of Meyric it was dry and silted up.
More recently the eastern portion has been to some extent superseded by
the Glamorganshire canal, and the northern, at a lower level, is now a part
of the feeder by which the river water is conveyed under the canal to the
Dock reservoir. The southern arm has been filled up and built over for many
centuries, and its existence is only known from the soft, black soil found in
occasional excavations. The mill leat which supplied the lord’s mill, at
which the people of Cardiff were bound to grind, and which was
occasionally used to flood the low ground for purposes of defence, still runs
along the west front of the castle. In the reign of Elizabeth there were three
grist-mills and a tucking-mill dependent upon the castle, and one grist-mill
was standing in 1660, but was afterwards replaced by a tanyard, removed in
1861, when the new lodge and town bridge were erected. The bridge then
destroyed was built about 1796, and replaced a structure of four stone
arches, probably of the age of Elizabeth (and referred to in certain Acts of
Parliament), placed rather above the castle; so that the high-road from it,
towards the west gate of the town, crossed the marsh by a causeway and the
leat by a bridge of three arches, and defiled close under the main buildings
of the castle. Part of the old gate of the town, with its iron gudgeons, may
still be seen in the brushwood a few yards in advance of the great tower,
showing how the road entered the town under the castle wall. A small Tudor
archway still remains on the right of the old entrance, nearly in a line with
Page 404
the Red House, a building of considerable antiquity, now much altered, and
known as the Cardiff Arms Hotel. Recently some excavations between this
building and the castle disclosed the foundations of the old town wall, and a
large arched passage which might be either a postern or a sewer. It was not
followed up.
The area within the castle wall is about 10 acres, and within the
counterscarp of the moat about 13 acres.
Within the great enclosure, near to, and a little west of, the centre of the
north bank, is the Mound, a grand earthwork, which rises from a circular
base of 60 yards in diameter to a height of 32 feet above the surrounding
ground. Its summit is a platform, also circular, 36 yards across, and
crowned by the remains of the keep, called by Leland the White Tower.
This is a shell, or polygon of twelve nearly equal sides, 80 feet in diameter,
the wall being 9 feet thick and 30 feet high, and constructed mainly of
rolled pebbles. This wall is pierced by the putlog holes, so common in the
older masonry, especially of this district; and in one of the eastern sides is a
fireplace of enormous dimensions, but the chimney of which appears as a
mere recess in the wall, with no present traces of a fourth side or front. Near
it is a sink, so that this was evidently a kitchen: a part, no doubt, of the
buildings which the wall supported. The walls have never been
strengthened by buttresses or pilaster strips; but the exterior angles of the
polygon are capped with ashlar quoins, which appear to be of the date of the
Beauchamp alterations, with some recent additions, one of which may be
the fireplace. The entrance was through a lofty and strong gate-tower, duly
portcullised on the south side, and of which a part remains. The shell is
probably the work of Robert Consul; but the style and finish of the gate-
tower testify to its being due to Isabel Beauchamp, or her husband, of
Warwick.
This gatehouse was connected with a cluster of towers of great strength,
which occupied the southern slope of the mound, and terminated below in a
second gateway, which was the first or outer entrance from the middle ward
into the keep. Here, though in an older structure, was the reputed scene of
the barbarity practised upon Curthose, and of his subsequent imprisonment.
Meyric describes the rooms in these buildings as “not so fair as strong.”
They were probably barracks. Much of this building fell down late in the
known as the Cardiff Arms Hotel. Recently some excavations between this
building and the castle disclosed the foundations of the old town wall, and a
large arched passage which might be either a postern or a sewer. It was not
followed up.
The area within the castle wall is about 10 acres, and within the
counterscarp of the moat about 13 acres.
Within the great enclosure, near to, and a little west of, the centre of the
north bank, is the Mound, a grand earthwork, which rises from a circular
base of 60 yards in diameter to a height of 32 feet above the surrounding
ground. Its summit is a platform, also circular, 36 yards across, and
crowned by the remains of the keep, called by Leland the White Tower.
This is a shell, or polygon of twelve nearly equal sides, 80 feet in diameter,
the wall being 9 feet thick and 30 feet high, and constructed mainly of
rolled pebbles. This wall is pierced by the putlog holes, so common in the
older masonry, especially of this district; and in one of the eastern sides is a
fireplace of enormous dimensions, but the chimney of which appears as a
mere recess in the wall, with no present traces of a fourth side or front. Near
it is a sink, so that this was evidently a kitchen: a part, no doubt, of the
buildings which the wall supported. The walls have never been
strengthened by buttresses or pilaster strips; but the exterior angles of the
polygon are capped with ashlar quoins, which appear to be of the date of the
Beauchamp alterations, with some recent additions, one of which may be
the fireplace. The entrance was through a lofty and strong gate-tower, duly
portcullised on the south side, and of which a part remains. The shell is
probably the work of Robert Consul; but the style and finish of the gate-
tower testify to its being due to Isabel Beauchamp, or her husband, of
Warwick.
This gatehouse was connected with a cluster of towers of great strength,
which occupied the southern slope of the mound, and terminated below in a
second gateway, which was the first or outer entrance from the middle ward
into the keep. Here, though in an older structure, was the reputed scene of
the barbarity practised upon Curthose, and of his subsequent imprisonment.
Meyric describes the rooms in these buildings as “not so fair as strong.”
They were probably barracks. Much of this building fell down late in the
Page 405
last century, and was removed. It was, no doubt, of Norman foundation, and
probably altered both by the De Clares and by Isabel Beauchamp.
Since this account was drawn up, the ditch of the mound has been
carefully opened out, and once more supplied with water. This laid open the
piles of an early bridge, and the arch of a later one, probably of late Norman
date, with the base of a gateway at the foot of the mound, and a well close
to it. Also were laid bare parts of the steps by which the mound was
ascended, laid alongside of a cross wall as at Tickhill.
The keep does not seem to have contained any central building. A plain
stone stair, of which traces remain against the wall, led to the battlement,
which was also accessible from the gatehouse. Probably an interior lean-to
or shed surrounded the court.
On the face of the opposite fronts of the gate-tower of the keep and of the
Black Tower, are sections of the great curtain wall, which extended from
one to the other. This wall, thus seen to have been 7 feet thick and 30 feet
high, and embattled on each face, was probably not the work of the founder
of the castle. It was removed late in the last century, but the foundations
remain, and have been laid open. From Meyric’s description, and an oil
painting preserved in the castle, it appears that it was pierced near its centre
by a gateway, flanked by one if not two semi-drum towers which projected
towards the outer ward, and which, in fact, formed the real gateway to the
strong part of the castle. There was a second smaller door, a sort of postern,
in the southern drum. The foundations corroborate this view. Probably the
curtain was an addition by an early De Clare, after, and probably in
consequence of, the well-known and successful attack of Ivor Bach.
probably altered both by the De Clares and by Isabel Beauchamp.
Since this account was drawn up, the ditch of the mound has been
carefully opened out, and once more supplied with water. This laid open the
piles of an early bridge, and the arch of a later one, probably of late Norman
date, with the base of a gateway at the foot of the mound, and a well close
to it. Also were laid bare parts of the steps by which the mound was
ascended, laid alongside of a cross wall as at Tickhill.
The keep does not seem to have contained any central building. A plain
stone stair, of which traces remain against the wall, led to the battlement,
which was also accessible from the gatehouse. Probably an interior lean-to
or shed surrounded the court.
On the face of the opposite fronts of the gate-tower of the keep and of the
Black Tower, are sections of the great curtain wall, which extended from
one to the other. This wall, thus seen to have been 7 feet thick and 30 feet
high, and embattled on each face, was probably not the work of the founder
of the castle. It was removed late in the last century, but the foundations
remain, and have been laid open. From Meyric’s description, and an oil
painting preserved in the castle, it appears that it was pierced near its centre
by a gateway, flanked by one if not two semi-drum towers which projected
towards the outer ward, and which, in fact, formed the real gateway to the
strong part of the castle. There was a second smaller door, a sort of postern,
in the southern drum. The foundations corroborate this view. Probably the
curtain was an addition by an early De Clare, after, and probably in
consequence of, the well-known and successful attack of Ivor Bach.
Page 406
G. T. Clark del J. H. Le Keux sc
CARDIFF CASTLE LODGINGS.
A Outer ward. D Site of inner
B Site of Shire ward.
Hall. E Keep.
C Site of Middle F Lodgings.
ward.
G Black Tower.
H Town Gate.
CARDIFF CASTLE.
CARDIFF CASTLE LODGINGS.
A Outer ward. D Site of inner
B Site of Shire ward.
Hall. E Keep.
C Site of Middle F Lodgings.
ward.
G Black Tower.
H Town Gate.
CARDIFF CASTLE.
Page 407
For the completion of the defence it was absolutely necessary that the
great curtain should have been continued north of the keep. This portion,
however, has been removed. It certainly was never bonded into the keep
wall, but a corbel remaining on the north and outside of this may have been
connected with it.
The lodgings, or habitable part of the castle, form a rectangular pile, 145
feet long by 55 feet deep, which occupies about two-sevenths of the western
side of the court towards the southern end, and thus forms a part of the
outer line of defence. This pile is composed of a tower, a central part or
body, two main wings, and two lesser wings. All are built against the great
Norman wall; the tower and lesser wings outside of it, the remainder inside.
The tower is a bold and well-proportioned octagon of 10 feet in the side,
three faces of which project from the outer or west front, while the
remainder is incorporated into, and now forms part of, the older Norman
wall. It rises from a square base of 26 feet, passing by broaches into an
octagon, to a height of 75 feet, or 12 feet above the contiguous buildings. It
is boldly machicolated, having five corbel arches on each face, and a lofty
parapet above, with two embrasures each way, the intervening merlons,
eight in number, being pierced with a cruciform loop or oillet. The four
outer or western angles, at the base of the parapet, are capped with bold
grotesque heads of animals as gurgoyles.
The base is solid. About 6 feet above the ground it contains a rude
chamber, 13 feet square, having a barrel vault, slightly pointed, with
doorways, which seem to be original, in its northern and southern, or gable
ends. The northern door, now blocked up, was, as late as the last century, a
postern; and the chamber was a passage, and seems, from traces of a wall,
to have contained a sort of lodge, subdivided into two cells.
Above this chamber is the cylindrical interior of the tower, 13 feet
diameter, now a mere shell, occupied by a stair, and vaulted above. There
are six windows in two tiers, the lower 38 feet from the ground. They are
almost loops, small and square headed, but boldly splayed within, so as to
give light and air, and showing the great thickness of the wall. Their
arrangement proves the upper part of the tower to have been occupied by
two chambers. It is difficult to speculate on the use of the lower part, which
must always have been dark, and is rather large for a newel staircase. The
great curtain should have been continued north of the keep. This portion,
however, has been removed. It certainly was never bonded into the keep
wall, but a corbel remaining on the north and outside of this may have been
connected with it.
The lodgings, or habitable part of the castle, form a rectangular pile, 145
feet long by 55 feet deep, which occupies about two-sevenths of the western
side of the court towards the southern end, and thus forms a part of the
outer line of defence. This pile is composed of a tower, a central part or
body, two main wings, and two lesser wings. All are built against the great
Norman wall; the tower and lesser wings outside of it, the remainder inside.
The tower is a bold and well-proportioned octagon of 10 feet in the side,
three faces of which project from the outer or west front, while the
remainder is incorporated into, and now forms part of, the older Norman
wall. It rises from a square base of 26 feet, passing by broaches into an
octagon, to a height of 75 feet, or 12 feet above the contiguous buildings. It
is boldly machicolated, having five corbel arches on each face, and a lofty
parapet above, with two embrasures each way, the intervening merlons,
eight in number, being pierced with a cruciform loop or oillet. The four
outer or western angles, at the base of the parapet, are capped with bold
grotesque heads of animals as gurgoyles.
The base is solid. About 6 feet above the ground it contains a rude
chamber, 13 feet square, having a barrel vault, slightly pointed, with
doorways, which seem to be original, in its northern and southern, or gable
ends. The northern door, now blocked up, was, as late as the last century, a
postern; and the chamber was a passage, and seems, from traces of a wall,
to have contained a sort of lodge, subdivided into two cells.
Above this chamber is the cylindrical interior of the tower, 13 feet
diameter, now a mere shell, occupied by a stair, and vaulted above. There
are six windows in two tiers, the lower 38 feet from the ground. They are
almost loops, small and square headed, but boldly splayed within, so as to
give light and air, and showing the great thickness of the wall. Their
arrangement proves the upper part of the tower to have been occupied by
two chambers. It is difficult to speculate on the use of the lower part, which
must always have been dark, and is rather large for a newel staircase. The
Page 408
present stairs and the groining above are very modern, though the latter may
cover older work.
The shell is original and untouched. The material is lias ashlar, backed
with rolled pebbles from the Taff. The quoins and battlements are chiefly of
a white limestone, dressed with care. This tower gives character to the
whole mass of the building. It has been compared with Guy’s tower at
Warwick, which, though of smaller dimensions, it much resembles; and it
is, no doubt, the work of the same nobleman or his wife, possibly of the
same architect, and probably was built between the years 1425 and 1439,
during which period Richard, Earl of Warwick, was lord of Cardiff.[3] Some
of the prints of the last century show a turret rising out of the Cardiff tower;
but this seems to have been a fiction, for no traces of such a turret are
found, and in that position it would have been inconsistent with the internal
arrangements of the tower.
Immediately behind the tower is the central part, or body of the building,
about 70 feet by 30 feet, now composed of a dining-room and entrance
lobby on the main floor; a basement, with cellars and offices below, and a
range of bedrooms above. The tower is divided from this building by the
older main wall of the castle, 10 feet thick and 40 feet high, which runs
through the whole, and is much cut about and mutilated by later
communications.
The present dining-room and lobby appear to have composed a hall, 62
feet long by 18 feet broad and 13 feet high, having a flat ceiling, probably
like that of the hall at Warwick. A passage cut through the wall leads from
the lobby into the tower at the foot of the stair, and is no doubt as old as the
tower. In recent times, probably by the first Stuart, the face of the great wall
has been cut away 3 feet, from the floor level upwards, to give a width of
21 feet to the dining-room. Also, about five years ago, a passage 32 feet
long and 3 feet wide, was cut like a tunnel through the axis of this wall, to
give a way from the tower to the breakfast-room and offices beyond.
The eastern front of this hall, which looks into the middle ward, forms
the centre of the present façade. It is divided into three compartments by
four octagonal turrets of half projection, about 4 feet in the side. These rise
to the roof. That to the south contains a stair, with an original door from the
court. The other three consist of two stages of three windows in each,
cover older work.
The shell is original and untouched. The material is lias ashlar, backed
with rolled pebbles from the Taff. The quoins and battlements are chiefly of
a white limestone, dressed with care. This tower gives character to the
whole mass of the building. It has been compared with Guy’s tower at
Warwick, which, though of smaller dimensions, it much resembles; and it
is, no doubt, the work of the same nobleman or his wife, possibly of the
same architect, and probably was built between the years 1425 and 1439,
during which period Richard, Earl of Warwick, was lord of Cardiff.[3] Some
of the prints of the last century show a turret rising out of the Cardiff tower;
but this seems to have been a fiction, for no traces of such a turret are
found, and in that position it would have been inconsistent with the internal
arrangements of the tower.
Immediately behind the tower is the central part, or body of the building,
about 70 feet by 30 feet, now composed of a dining-room and entrance
lobby on the main floor; a basement, with cellars and offices below, and a
range of bedrooms above. The tower is divided from this building by the
older main wall of the castle, 10 feet thick and 40 feet high, which runs
through the whole, and is much cut about and mutilated by later
communications.
The present dining-room and lobby appear to have composed a hall, 62
feet long by 18 feet broad and 13 feet high, having a flat ceiling, probably
like that of the hall at Warwick. A passage cut through the wall leads from
the lobby into the tower at the foot of the stair, and is no doubt as old as the
tower. In recent times, probably by the first Stuart, the face of the great wall
has been cut away 3 feet, from the floor level upwards, to give a width of
21 feet to the dining-room. Also, about five years ago, a passage 32 feet
long and 3 feet wide, was cut like a tunnel through the axis of this wall, to
give a way from the tower to the breakfast-room and offices beyond.
The eastern front of this hall, which looks into the middle ward, forms
the centre of the present façade. It is divided into three compartments by
four octagonal turrets of half projection, about 4 feet in the side. These rise
to the roof. That to the south contains a stair, with an original door from the
court. The other three consist of two stages of three windows in each,
Page 409
divided by a string-course. In the lower stage the two central turrets are
more ornate than the rest, and have their angles capped with slender
buttresses surmounted by pinnacles. This tabernacle work is original in the
southernmost of the two, but was added to the other when the windows
were pierced in it, and it was cased, a few years ago. These turrets are
battlemented and looped above, and range with the regular parapet of the
building, but they are not machicolated, their structure being but slight. The
stair-turret is much older than the rest. The stair, 7 feet in diameter, rudely
restored upon an original newel, communicates with the basement as well
as with the court, and by doors, now closed up, opened into the hall and
bedrooms. It is from the position of these doors, and from the turret
windows, that the height of the old hall has been inferred. The stair is
lighted by square-headed windows, and above by a small quatrefoiled
opening. It leads up to the roof.
The three curtains or wall spaces connecting the four turrets are also
pierced by two rows of single windows, six in all—the lower range square
headed, the upper pointed. All are of two lights, with a transom. The turret
and curtain windows are all alike, save that in the former the lower tier are
pointed.
The present entrance door is modern, made by cutting down a window,
and probably all the windows have been renewed during the past half-
century. A drawing of this front in 1776 shows, however, windows
generally resembling the present, excepting that the turret second from the
north, like the stair-turret, has no large windows.
Passing into the interior, the three turrets appear as bays from the main
and upper floors, the middle one opening by a sort of passage, as though it
had been once a mere dark closet, or perhaps a staircase: the other two open
by pointed arches with plain, bold, round, and hollow mouldings. The wall
is 5 feet thick, and the passage through it is divided by three ribs into two
panels, which are continued through the soffit. The bays themselves, 8 feet
wide, with walls only 18 inches thick, have five faces, of which the two
inner ones are blank, and the three outer pierced by the windows already
described. Each of the six angles, and the centres of the two blank sides are
occupied by a slender pilaster shaft, rising from a tall octagonal base, and
terminating in a delicate cap, decorated with a sort of trefoil. These shafts
are arranged above with some ingenuity, so as to support the sixteen ribs of
more ornate than the rest, and have their angles capped with slender
buttresses surmounted by pinnacles. This tabernacle work is original in the
southernmost of the two, but was added to the other when the windows
were pierced in it, and it was cased, a few years ago. These turrets are
battlemented and looped above, and range with the regular parapet of the
building, but they are not machicolated, their structure being but slight. The
stair-turret is much older than the rest. The stair, 7 feet in diameter, rudely
restored upon an original newel, communicates with the basement as well
as with the court, and by doors, now closed up, opened into the hall and
bedrooms. It is from the position of these doors, and from the turret
windows, that the height of the old hall has been inferred. The stair is
lighted by square-headed windows, and above by a small quatrefoiled
opening. It leads up to the roof.
The three curtains or wall spaces connecting the four turrets are also
pierced by two rows of single windows, six in all—the lower range square
headed, the upper pointed. All are of two lights, with a transom. The turret
and curtain windows are all alike, save that in the former the lower tier are
pointed.
The present entrance door is modern, made by cutting down a window,
and probably all the windows have been renewed during the past half-
century. A drawing of this front in 1776 shows, however, windows
generally resembling the present, excepting that the turret second from the
north, like the stair-turret, has no large windows.
Passing into the interior, the three turrets appear as bays from the main
and upper floors, the middle one opening by a sort of passage, as though it
had been once a mere dark closet, or perhaps a staircase: the other two open
by pointed arches with plain, bold, round, and hollow mouldings. The wall
is 5 feet thick, and the passage through it is divided by three ribs into two
panels, which are continued through the soffit. The bays themselves, 8 feet
wide, with walls only 18 inches thick, have five faces, of which the two
inner ones are blank, and the three outer pierced by the windows already
described. Each of the six angles, and the centres of the two blank sides are
occupied by a slender pilaster shaft, rising from a tall octagonal base, and
terminating in a delicate cap, decorated with a sort of trefoil. These shafts
are arranged above with some ingenuity, so as to support the sixteen ribs of
Page 410
a groined octagonal roof, meeting at a central boss. In the two northern bays
and those of the upper story, this boss is a mass of foliage, probably a very
modern restoration; but in the southern bay of the three, that next the stair-
turret, it bears an original and elaborate armorial achievement. Within a
wreath formed of a vine stem, truncated so as to represent the well-known
ragged staff of Warwick, is a shield, set anglewise, of Newburgh and
Beauchamp quarterly; and in the centre, Despenser, on an escocheon of
pretence. The helmet has large tasselled lambrequins, and upon it is placed
the Beauchamp crest of the siren’s head, ducally gorged. The whole is
painted in colours, probably after the original pattern; and it is obviously the
achievement of Richard Earl of Warwick, and Isabel Despenser, who
therefore built these turrets, as is also evident from their style. It is,
however, probable, that the ribs and groining of the central bay were copied
from the others, and added when its windows were opened, and its walls
cased or reconstructed.
It appears from Meyric’s description, and the drawing, two centuries
later, by Grose, that the entrance to the hall in the sixteenth, seventeenth,
and eighteenth centuries, was at its southern end, at the south-eastern
corner, near which were the kitchens. The turret-stair seems then to have
been either closed, or used only for communication between the basement,
bedrooms, and roof. Grose shows its outer door, as now, partially below the
level of the soil.
At the upper or northern end of the hall, on the site of the present
drawing-room, was “a fair dining chamber,” and two other rooms; and,
above these, two other stories, this being the part of the castle in which the
lord and his immediate family and attendants were lodged. It will be
observed that all these arrangements, about the existence of which there can
be no doubt, leave the most highly decorated bay window, or oriel, and the
staircase, at the lower end of the hall. This could never have been intended
when the bay was constructed, and this, therefore, indicates an earlier and
reversed arrangement.
It is well known that Earl Henry, son of the Herbert purchaser, made
considerable alterations in the castle lodgings; but what they were has not
been recorded, nor, as yet, inferred. It may, however, be safely asserted that
he actually reversed all the internal arrangements. It is clear that in the hall
of Richard Beauchamp, the south, with its heraldic oriel, was the dais end;
and those of the upper story, this boss is a mass of foliage, probably a very
modern restoration; but in the southern bay of the three, that next the stair-
turret, it bears an original and elaborate armorial achievement. Within a
wreath formed of a vine stem, truncated so as to represent the well-known
ragged staff of Warwick, is a shield, set anglewise, of Newburgh and
Beauchamp quarterly; and in the centre, Despenser, on an escocheon of
pretence. The helmet has large tasselled lambrequins, and upon it is placed
the Beauchamp crest of the siren’s head, ducally gorged. The whole is
painted in colours, probably after the original pattern; and it is obviously the
achievement of Richard Earl of Warwick, and Isabel Despenser, who
therefore built these turrets, as is also evident from their style. It is,
however, probable, that the ribs and groining of the central bay were copied
from the others, and added when its windows were opened, and its walls
cased or reconstructed.
It appears from Meyric’s description, and the drawing, two centuries
later, by Grose, that the entrance to the hall in the sixteenth, seventeenth,
and eighteenth centuries, was at its southern end, at the south-eastern
corner, near which were the kitchens. The turret-stair seems then to have
been either closed, or used only for communication between the basement,
bedrooms, and roof. Grose shows its outer door, as now, partially below the
level of the soil.
At the upper or northern end of the hall, on the site of the present
drawing-room, was “a fair dining chamber,” and two other rooms; and,
above these, two other stories, this being the part of the castle in which the
lord and his immediate family and attendants were lodged. It will be
observed that all these arrangements, about the existence of which there can
be no doubt, leave the most highly decorated bay window, or oriel, and the
staircase, at the lower end of the hall. This could never have been intended
when the bay was constructed, and this, therefore, indicates an earlier and
reversed arrangement.
It is well known that Earl Henry, son of the Herbert purchaser, made
considerable alterations in the castle lodgings; but what they were has not
been recorded, nor, as yet, inferred. It may, however, be safely asserted that
he actually reversed all the internal arrangements. It is clear that in the hall
of Richard Beauchamp, the south, with its heraldic oriel, was the dais end;
Page 411
and this will account for the group of buildings convenient to this end,
which he raised outside of the great wall; and thus, also, the entrance to the
great tower would open, as was proper, upon the lower end of the hall.
Meyric says the Herberts removed the flower-garden to the north from the
south end of the building, where, no doubt, it had been placed for the
convenience of the occupants of the dais. This also accounts for the turret-
stair, which gave a ready egress into the lord’s private garden, and an access
downwards into the cellar, and upwards into the first floor, where naturally
the safest and best bedrooms would be placed. Also, the drawing of 1776
shows certain broken walls about the southern end of the building, on the
side of the modern offices, as though the entrance of the Herberts had been
accomplished by the incomplete removal of old buildings, an inference
which is strengthened by a tower shown in the old oil painting in the castle.
It is, therefore, I think, incontestable that the dais of Richard Beauchamp,
and probably of the De Clares, was at the southern, as that of the Herberts
was at the northern end. The north wall of the former hall is modern, built
by the Stuarts; but the south wall is original, and, from the considerable
distance between it and the oriel, it is possible that there was a small
withdrawing-room cut off from the hall, into which the staircase turret
opened.
The basement is composed of one spacious chamber, or cellar, 62 feet
long by 18 feet broad, and spanned by a rather highly-pointed and four-
centred vault, without ribs or groins, but of good workmanship, and as
perfect as when first constructed. This proves, incontrovertibly, the
dimensions of the ancient hall above it. It is, of course, of Beauchamp date.
At its north end is an original doorway of 4 feet 6 inches opening, with
irons for double doors, and holes, showing that these doors were barred
from within. One end, possibly of the original oak bar, remains in its hole.
There seems to have been a similar door at the southern end; and it is
evident from the old work that the turret-stair opened into the south-west
angle of this vault. There are also two other openings, each in the old and
enormously thick wall, at the south-west angle, which may be original.
The two greater wings are evidently the work of the first Stuart owner,
sixty or seventy years ago, when, no doubt, the central wall was first cut
into longitudinally. The northern wing is an entire rebuilding of the Herbert
residence, of which nothing now remains. The wall between this wing and
which he raised outside of the great wall; and thus, also, the entrance to the
great tower would open, as was proper, upon the lower end of the hall.
Meyric says the Herberts removed the flower-garden to the north from the
south end of the building, where, no doubt, it had been placed for the
convenience of the occupants of the dais. This also accounts for the turret-
stair, which gave a ready egress into the lord’s private garden, and an access
downwards into the cellar, and upwards into the first floor, where naturally
the safest and best bedrooms would be placed. Also, the drawing of 1776
shows certain broken walls about the southern end of the building, on the
side of the modern offices, as though the entrance of the Herberts had been
accomplished by the incomplete removal of old buildings, an inference
which is strengthened by a tower shown in the old oil painting in the castle.
It is, therefore, I think, incontestable that the dais of Richard Beauchamp,
and probably of the De Clares, was at the southern, as that of the Herberts
was at the northern end. The north wall of the former hall is modern, built
by the Stuarts; but the south wall is original, and, from the considerable
distance between it and the oriel, it is possible that there was a small
withdrawing-room cut off from the hall, into which the staircase turret
opened.
The basement is composed of one spacious chamber, or cellar, 62 feet
long by 18 feet broad, and spanned by a rather highly-pointed and four-
centred vault, without ribs or groins, but of good workmanship, and as
perfect as when first constructed. This proves, incontrovertibly, the
dimensions of the ancient hall above it. It is, of course, of Beauchamp date.
At its north end is an original doorway of 4 feet 6 inches opening, with
irons for double doors, and holes, showing that these doors were barred
from within. One end, possibly of the original oak bar, remains in its hole.
There seems to have been a similar door at the southern end; and it is
evident from the old work that the turret-stair opened into the south-west
angle of this vault. There are also two other openings, each in the old and
enormously thick wall, at the south-west angle, which may be original.
The two greater wings are evidently the work of the first Stuart owner,
sixty or seventy years ago, when, no doubt, the central wall was first cut
into longitudinally. The northern wing is an entire rebuilding of the Herbert
residence, of which nothing now remains. The wall between this wing and
Page 412
the central part was built with it, and replaces the original northern end wall
of the hall of the De Clares and Beauchamps.
The southern wing is of the same Stuart date, excepting that the wall
between it and the central part is original. It is the southern end wall of the
old hall. The wing itself covers the old entrance used by the Herberts, and
stands on the site of a group of towers, shown in the oil painting in the
castle, and of which the entrance was a part. Probably these towers were
Clare and Beauchamp work, and demolished by the Herberts. They are
shown in the painting, but they are wanting in the drawings of 1776.
There remain to be noticed two lesser wings, or groups of buildings,
placed outside the great wall, one on each flank of the building, and each
connected with the central octagon tower by a sort of corridor.
Of these wings, the southern appears to be coëval with the tower. Its two
lower stories, 14 feet square, are vaulted. The southern corridor, which
connects the wing with the octagon tower, communicates in its first floor
with the basement story of the tower, and seems to have been the passage
from the tower postern towards the interior of the building. The present
wall, however, is in part, if not altogether, modern, and presents difficulties
which have not as yet been cleared up.
The northern wing and its corridor are Stuart work. This wing is
occupied, on the one floor, by the back drawing-room, to enlarge which
above 7 feet have been cut away from the face of the great wall.
Seldom has an old wall been so severely treated, or stood the mutilation
so well. The gain, however, has been an excellent back drawing-room and
study, accessible, by means of these tunnellings, from both the great
drawing-room and the lobby.
Altogether, notwithstanding many faults of detail, the general result of
the alterations and additions made since 1775 has been decidedly
successful. The great court has been cleared, and the keep, though deprived
of its ditch and lower gatehouses, still presents a venerable aspect, and in
summer, when its surrounding thorns are in bloom, one of singular beauty.
The Black Tower has been restored nearly after the old pattern. In the main
building, the great tower which once capped the north-western angle, has,
by additions on the north, been placed in the centre of its front; and within
of the hall of the De Clares and Beauchamps.
The southern wing is of the same Stuart date, excepting that the wall
between it and the central part is original. It is the southern end wall of the
old hall. The wing itself covers the old entrance used by the Herberts, and
stands on the site of a group of towers, shown in the oil painting in the
castle, and of which the entrance was a part. Probably these towers were
Clare and Beauchamp work, and demolished by the Herberts. They are
shown in the painting, but they are wanting in the drawings of 1776.
There remain to be noticed two lesser wings, or groups of buildings,
placed outside the great wall, one on each flank of the building, and each
connected with the central octagon tower by a sort of corridor.
Of these wings, the southern appears to be coëval with the tower. Its two
lower stories, 14 feet square, are vaulted. The southern corridor, which
connects the wing with the octagon tower, communicates in its first floor
with the basement story of the tower, and seems to have been the passage
from the tower postern towards the interior of the building. The present
wall, however, is in part, if not altogether, modern, and presents difficulties
which have not as yet been cleared up.
The northern wing and its corridor are Stuart work. This wing is
occupied, on the one floor, by the back drawing-room, to enlarge which
above 7 feet have been cut away from the face of the great wall.
Seldom has an old wall been so severely treated, or stood the mutilation
so well. The gain, however, has been an excellent back drawing-room and
study, accessible, by means of these tunnellings, from both the great
drawing-room and the lobby.
Altogether, notwithstanding many faults of detail, the general result of
the alterations and additions made since 1775 has been decidedly
successful. The great court has been cleared, and the keep, though deprived
of its ditch and lower gatehouses, still presents a venerable aspect, and in
summer, when its surrounding thorns are in bloom, one of singular beauty.
The Black Tower has been restored nearly after the old pattern. In the main
building, the great tower which once capped the north-western angle, has,
by additions on the north, been placed in the centre of its front; and within
Page 413
the court, the addition of the south, and reconstruction of the north wing,
and the opening of windows in the blind turret, have added much to the
completeness of the whole.
In place of the old hall is an entrance lobby and a dining-room, which,
with a breakfast-room and drawing-room, all of large size and excellent
proportions, a back drawing-room, study, and some smaller apartments,
form a suite, quite equal to the aspects and pretensions of the building. The
antiquary, indeed, may be permitted to regret the extent to which the
internal features have been removed or masked by modern plaster-work and
upholstery.
In speculating upon the age, absolute or relative, of the different parts of
this castle, our only guide, down at least to the age of Elizabeth, is the
internal evidence of its structure, and especially the plans of its basement
and main stories. From these it may be safely inferred that the great west
wall of the enclosure, the work of Robert Consul or his successor, was
originally continued in an unbroken line, the Norman buildings having been
in some other part of the court as well as upon the mound. The castle of
Robert Consul was probably a rectangular enclosure, 216 yards by 84 yards,
contained within three very substantial walls, and possibly a wooden
palisade, on the line of which stood the mound and its keep; and east of this
enclosure was a second rectangular space, the outer ward, 216 yards by 116
yards, contained within three banks of earth, strengthened by a moat on the
north, by a moat and the town gate on the east, and by a moat and the town
itself on the south, and perhaps further defended by a palisade of timber or a
mere breast-wall along the crest of the bank. The entrance, even then, from
the town was, probably, where it now is, by an archway in the curtain
opening into the outer ward; and that from the outer into the middle ward
was probably in the centre of the intervening defence. There was certainly
no tower at the south-west angle, and probably none at the north-west; and
the Black Tower also seems of rather later date. The castle was, in fact, in
two parts, the one a mere enclosure of strong walls, and a palisade, with a
circular mound; the other, and larger part, an enclosure within earthworks.
Such seems to have been the Norman castle, calculated from its
enormous passive strength to defy any military machines likely to be
brought against it by the Welsh. The next additions were probably the Black
Tower and the cross curtain wall; and the next, with a view to the
and the opening of windows in the blind turret, have added much to the
completeness of the whole.
In place of the old hall is an entrance lobby and a dining-room, which,
with a breakfast-room and drawing-room, all of large size and excellent
proportions, a back drawing-room, study, and some smaller apartments,
form a suite, quite equal to the aspects and pretensions of the building. The
antiquary, indeed, may be permitted to regret the extent to which the
internal features have been removed or masked by modern plaster-work and
upholstery.
In speculating upon the age, absolute or relative, of the different parts of
this castle, our only guide, down at least to the age of Elizabeth, is the
internal evidence of its structure, and especially the plans of its basement
and main stories. From these it may be safely inferred that the great west
wall of the enclosure, the work of Robert Consul or his successor, was
originally continued in an unbroken line, the Norman buildings having been
in some other part of the court as well as upon the mound. The castle of
Robert Consul was probably a rectangular enclosure, 216 yards by 84 yards,
contained within three very substantial walls, and possibly a wooden
palisade, on the line of which stood the mound and its keep; and east of this
enclosure was a second rectangular space, the outer ward, 216 yards by 116
yards, contained within three banks of earth, strengthened by a moat on the
north, by a moat and the town gate on the east, and by a moat and the town
itself on the south, and perhaps further defended by a palisade of timber or a
mere breast-wall along the crest of the bank. The entrance, even then, from
the town was, probably, where it now is, by an archway in the curtain
opening into the outer ward; and that from the outer into the middle ward
was probably in the centre of the intervening defence. There was certainly
no tower at the south-west angle, and probably none at the north-west; and
the Black Tower also seems of rather later date. The castle was, in fact, in
two parts, the one a mere enclosure of strong walls, and a palisade, with a
circular mound; the other, and larger part, an enclosure within earthworks.
Such seems to have been the Norman castle, calculated from its
enormous passive strength to defy any military machines likely to be
brought against it by the Welsh. The next additions were probably the Black
Tower and the cross curtain wall; and the next, with a view to the
Page 414
occasional residence of the De Clares, the older part of the present lodgings,
built within and against the western wall.
The extent of this structure cannot now be determined; but it is probable
that it included the present front or east wall of the centre of the building,
the south or cross wall connecting this with the great wall, and a
corresponding north wall, destroyed by the Herberts or Stuarts, and rebuilt
by the latter. There would thus be a clear space of about 61 feet by 18 feet
for the hall; and no doubt there were besides kitchens at the northern, and
some additional buildings at the southern end. This would give a moderate
hall and lodgings, and, with the Black Tower and the keep, afford very fair
accommodation for a baron and his train. The southern stair-turret was,
probably, an early addition to this work.
Whether the great curtain wall which divided the castle proper from the
mere earthen enclosure be regarded as coëval with the outer wall, or of later
date, the gateway in it, with the drum towers, of which a sketch and the
foundations remain, were evidently later, and probably De Clare insertions.
The extinction of the De Clares, the division of the inheritance, the
construction of Caerphilly, and the gradual pacification of the country, were
causes which, with the long-continued misfortunes of the Despensers, no
doubt led to the partial neglect of Cardiff, or at any rate, for a time, checked
any additions to its buildings. Caerphilly, however, once so magnificent,
seems to have been found too heavy a burthen, and to have been neglected,
and the heiress who closed the line of Despenser was born at Cardiff.
Probably this fact, and the ambitious designs of the Beauchamps, led to the
partial reconstruction of the castle; which, moreover, had, no doubt,
suffered from Owen Glendower. Richard and Isabel Beauchamp evidently
built the great octagonal tower, bonding it securely into the old wall.
Connected with this, and at the same time, they added, also outside of and
bonded into the wall, the southern lesser wing, or that towards the town
gate. Within the court they probably remodelled the lodgings, constructing a
grand vault below the hall. Also, they added three turrets to the east wall,
groining the interior of, at least, two of them as bays from the great hall,
and embellishing with their armorial shield that which opened upon the
dais. A tower, containing retiring-rooms at the south, and probably kitchens
at the north end seem also to have been additions of the same epoch.
built within and against the western wall.
The extent of this structure cannot now be determined; but it is probable
that it included the present front or east wall of the centre of the building,
the south or cross wall connecting this with the great wall, and a
corresponding north wall, destroyed by the Herberts or Stuarts, and rebuilt
by the latter. There would thus be a clear space of about 61 feet by 18 feet
for the hall; and no doubt there were besides kitchens at the northern, and
some additional buildings at the southern end. This would give a moderate
hall and lodgings, and, with the Black Tower and the keep, afford very fair
accommodation for a baron and his train. The southern stair-turret was,
probably, an early addition to this work.
Whether the great curtain wall which divided the castle proper from the
mere earthen enclosure be regarded as coëval with the outer wall, or of later
date, the gateway in it, with the drum towers, of which a sketch and the
foundations remain, were evidently later, and probably De Clare insertions.
The extinction of the De Clares, the division of the inheritance, the
construction of Caerphilly, and the gradual pacification of the country, were
causes which, with the long-continued misfortunes of the Despensers, no
doubt led to the partial neglect of Cardiff, or at any rate, for a time, checked
any additions to its buildings. Caerphilly, however, once so magnificent,
seems to have been found too heavy a burthen, and to have been neglected,
and the heiress who closed the line of Despenser was born at Cardiff.
Probably this fact, and the ambitious designs of the Beauchamps, led to the
partial reconstruction of the castle; which, moreover, had, no doubt,
suffered from Owen Glendower. Richard and Isabel Beauchamp evidently
built the great octagonal tower, bonding it securely into the old wall.
Connected with this, and at the same time, they added, also outside of and
bonded into the wall, the southern lesser wing, or that towards the town
gate. Within the court they probably remodelled the lodgings, constructing a
grand vault below the hall. Also, they added three turrets to the east wall,
groining the interior of, at least, two of them as bays from the great hall,
and embellishing with their armorial shield that which opened upon the
dais. A tower, containing retiring-rooms at the south, and probably kitchens
at the north end seem also to have been additions of the same epoch.
Page 415
Within the court, upon the line of the eastern curtain, and up the slope of
the mound, the Beauchamps also seem to have constructed or reconstructed
the cluster of buildings of which a fragment only is left. This is that ruined
tower which rises considerably above every other part of the enclosure, and
adds as much to the picturesque appearance of the castle as it formerly did
to its material strength.
The Herberts, in their day, made considerable changes. They seem to
have pulled down the kitchens, or whatever buildings existed at the north
end of the lodgings, and to have replaced them by an Elizabethan building
with large mullioned bay windows. They also pulled down the buildings on
the south, and established a kitchen garden on their site. It is probable that
the Herbert work was of a much less solid character than that which
preceded it, since it has all disappeared.
Towards the close of the last century, in 1778, soon after the Stuarts came
into possession, under the advice of “Capability” Brown they pulled down
the Herbert buildings, cleared the great court, filled up the moat of the keep
(then called the Magazine), constructed the two wings, modernised the
interior of the lodgings, and left everything, in general features, as lately
seen.
It is singular, that in so important a castle as Cardiff no traces should
remain of a regular gatehouse. Leland speaks of two gates, the Shire Hall
and the Exchequer; of which the former was, no doubt, the present gate, and
the latter, probably, that from the outer to the middle ward. That the present
occupies the place of the original entrance is pretty certain. Where else
could it have been? If cut through the earthworks, or through any other
parts of the wall, traces would certainly remain. Probably, therefore, as
already stated, and as was sometimes the case, the entrance was a mere
gateway in the curtain; and the real barrier was that from the outer into the
middle ward, which was certainly of great strength. The outer ward must
have been a place of common resort for exchequer and other public
business; and the knights’ lodgings were occupied regularly by some
persons, though not usually by the owners. The traffic attendant upon this
state of things would have made the formalities of gates, portcullis, and
drawbridge, inconvenient, and may have been a reason for the usual regular
defences of the gateway having been dispensed with. The foundations of
these buildings, public and private, have been laid open in the great court.
the mound, the Beauchamps also seem to have constructed or reconstructed
the cluster of buildings of which a fragment only is left. This is that ruined
tower which rises considerably above every other part of the enclosure, and
adds as much to the picturesque appearance of the castle as it formerly did
to its material strength.
The Herberts, in their day, made considerable changes. They seem to
have pulled down the kitchens, or whatever buildings existed at the north
end of the lodgings, and to have replaced them by an Elizabethan building
with large mullioned bay windows. They also pulled down the buildings on
the south, and established a kitchen garden on their site. It is probable that
the Herbert work was of a much less solid character than that which
preceded it, since it has all disappeared.
Towards the close of the last century, in 1778, soon after the Stuarts came
into possession, under the advice of “Capability” Brown they pulled down
the Herbert buildings, cleared the great court, filled up the moat of the keep
(then called the Magazine), constructed the two wings, modernised the
interior of the lodgings, and left everything, in general features, as lately
seen.
It is singular, that in so important a castle as Cardiff no traces should
remain of a regular gatehouse. Leland speaks of two gates, the Shire Hall
and the Exchequer; of which the former was, no doubt, the present gate, and
the latter, probably, that from the outer to the middle ward. That the present
occupies the place of the original entrance is pretty certain. Where else
could it have been? If cut through the earthworks, or through any other
parts of the wall, traces would certainly remain. Probably, therefore, as
already stated, and as was sometimes the case, the entrance was a mere
gateway in the curtain; and the real barrier was that from the outer into the
middle ward, which was certainly of great strength. The outer ward must
have been a place of common resort for exchequer and other public
business; and the knights’ lodgings were occupied regularly by some
persons, though not usually by the owners. The traffic attendant upon this
state of things would have made the formalities of gates, portcullis, and
drawbridge, inconvenient, and may have been a reason for the usual regular
defences of the gateway having been dispensed with. The foundations of
these buildings, public and private, have been laid open in the great court.
Page 416
The only remaining difficulty relates to the defences of the
circumscribing embankment. Buck’s general view, published in 1748, and
an engraving by Ryland, show an extensive wall, covering the great wall
and the earthwork at the north-west angle, and prolonged upon the present
course of the feeder. This can scarcely be one of Buck’s common errors in
perspective, since he shows also the present wall capping the earthen bank.
It is, therefore, possible that there was, on the north front, a wall between
the bank and the moat. But, however this may be, it must be remembered
that the enemy who surmounted the earthworks still had before him a
fortress which for thickness and height of wall was equalled by few in
Britain. The chapel of the castle, the Shire Hall, and the knights’ houses
stood in the outer ward, and might be burned or destroyed; but the knights
themselves, and their followers and effects, would take refuge and be in
absolute security in the interior parts of the castle.
Rees Meyric, writing about 1578, has left a minute, and, on the whole, a
very intelligible account of the castle as restored by the Earls of Pembroke
for their occasional residence, before the building of Wilton. From his
description it appears that the principal entrance was from the town by “a
fair gate,” having the Black Tower with its prisons on the left, and opening
into the outer ward. This ward occupied the eastern part of the general
enclosure, being separated from the inner and middle wards by the mound
and the strong curtain that extended from the Black to the White Tower or
keep.
In this outer ward Leland saw the lodgings of the twelve knights of
Glamorgan who held their lands by the tenure of castle-guard and the
payment of ward silver. In Meyric’s time there remained but one, held by
Sir Edward Mansell, and which had belonged to the Bassetts. Here also,
near the north-eastern corner, as drawn by Speed and seen by Meyrick,
stood the lord’s courthouse, used as the Shire Hall, and in which the lord’s
court for the borough was held until late in the last century. This was
protected by a special wall, upon which the knights’ lodgings stood and
formed a part. A small chapel completed the group. This chapel was
granted, with the parish church of St. Mary in Cardiff, by one of the early
Norman earls to the monastery at Tewkesbury, and is mentioned in a
general charter of confirmation by Nicholas, Bishop of Llandaff (“Dug.
circumscribing embankment. Buck’s general view, published in 1748, and
an engraving by Ryland, show an extensive wall, covering the great wall
and the earthwork at the north-west angle, and prolonged upon the present
course of the feeder. This can scarcely be one of Buck’s common errors in
perspective, since he shows also the present wall capping the earthen bank.
It is, therefore, possible that there was, on the north front, a wall between
the bank and the moat. But, however this may be, it must be remembered
that the enemy who surmounted the earthworks still had before him a
fortress which for thickness and height of wall was equalled by few in
Britain. The chapel of the castle, the Shire Hall, and the knights’ houses
stood in the outer ward, and might be burned or destroyed; but the knights
themselves, and their followers and effects, would take refuge and be in
absolute security in the interior parts of the castle.
Rees Meyric, writing about 1578, has left a minute, and, on the whole, a
very intelligible account of the castle as restored by the Earls of Pembroke
for their occasional residence, before the building of Wilton. From his
description it appears that the principal entrance was from the town by “a
fair gate,” having the Black Tower with its prisons on the left, and opening
into the outer ward. This ward occupied the eastern part of the general
enclosure, being separated from the inner and middle wards by the mound
and the strong curtain that extended from the Black to the White Tower or
keep.
In this outer ward Leland saw the lodgings of the twelve knights of
Glamorgan who held their lands by the tenure of castle-guard and the
payment of ward silver. In Meyric’s time there remained but one, held by
Sir Edward Mansell, and which had belonged to the Bassetts. Here also,
near the north-eastern corner, as drawn by Speed and seen by Meyrick,
stood the lord’s courthouse, used as the Shire Hall, and in which the lord’s
court for the borough was held until late in the last century. This was
protected by a special wall, upon which the knights’ lodgings stood and
formed a part. A small chapel completed the group. This chapel was
granted, with the parish church of St. Mary in Cardiff, by one of the early
Norman earls to the monastery at Tewkesbury, and is mentioned in a
general charter of confirmation by Nicholas, Bishop of Llandaff (“Dug.
Page 417
Mon.,” ii. 67). The space between the Shire Hall court and the adjacent
bank was occupied by gardens and orchards.
The middle ward was entered a little north of the centre of the curtain
wall, by a gateway between two drum towers, with a postern in that on the
left.
Entering the middle ward, in front was the lord’s lodging, and on the left
a stair led to the battlement, and a roadway to the Black Tower, which road
was divided by a wall from the woodyard, which, as now, occupied the
south-east corner of the court.
On the right, a way, rising rapidly, led to the keep across the ditch of the
mound and up its side. This way passed through, and was defended by, two
gatehouses duly portcullised, and was further protected by the great curtain,
under and along the rear of which it ran. The correctness of this description
has been proved by recent excavations.
The middle ward occupied all the space south of the mound, a cross wall
dividing it from the inner ward. Its west side was chiefly occupied by the
lodgings. The original plaisance, or lord’s garden, was in the south-west
corner of this ward, and was by the Herberts converted into a kitchen
garden.
The inner ward lay next, north of the middle ward, communicating with
it by a door in the cross wall. This ward was also bounded by a part of the
ditch of the keep; but it seems to have been of small area, and not to have
extended to the north outer wall, but to have been limited by a wall which
extended from the north-west angle of the keep, down the slope, towards
the north-western angle buttress of the general enclosure. This ward
contained the Herbert flower-garden, no doubt placed there for privacy, and
to be under the windows of the private apartments, with which it seems to
have been connected by an ornamental stone staircase shown in one of the
drawings of the last century. A postern opened from this garden, through the
great west wall, just outside of the west gate of the town, and not far from
the postern of the octagon tower.
The narrow space north of the mound must have been shut off in some
way of which there are now no traces.
bank was occupied by gardens and orchards.
The middle ward was entered a little north of the centre of the curtain
wall, by a gateway between two drum towers, with a postern in that on the
left.
Entering the middle ward, in front was the lord’s lodging, and on the left
a stair led to the battlement, and a roadway to the Black Tower, which road
was divided by a wall from the woodyard, which, as now, occupied the
south-east corner of the court.
On the right, a way, rising rapidly, led to the keep across the ditch of the
mound and up its side. This way passed through, and was defended by, two
gatehouses duly portcullised, and was further protected by the great curtain,
under and along the rear of which it ran. The correctness of this description
has been proved by recent excavations.
The middle ward occupied all the space south of the mound, a cross wall
dividing it from the inner ward. Its west side was chiefly occupied by the
lodgings. The original plaisance, or lord’s garden, was in the south-west
corner of this ward, and was by the Herberts converted into a kitchen
garden.
The inner ward lay next, north of the middle ward, communicating with
it by a door in the cross wall. This ward was also bounded by a part of the
ditch of the keep; but it seems to have been of small area, and not to have
extended to the north outer wall, but to have been limited by a wall which
extended from the north-west angle of the keep, down the slope, towards
the north-western angle buttress of the general enclosure. This ward
contained the Herbert flower-garden, no doubt placed there for privacy, and
to be under the windows of the private apartments, with which it seems to
have been connected by an ornamental stone staircase shown in one of the
drawings of the last century. A postern opened from this garden, through the
great west wall, just outside of the west gate of the town, and not far from
the postern of the octagon tower.
The narrow space north of the mound must have been shut off in some
way of which there are now no traces.
Page 418
The main building in Meyric’s time looked, as regards its central part,
much as it did ten years ago. The south wing and the present kitchens were
wanting, and the entrance was up a few steps and by an open terrace to the
south-west corner of the pile. Entering, the visitor stood in the hall, 61 feet
long by 18 feet broad, and 13 feet 6 inches high, with a flat ceiling. On the
right was a door opening into the stair-turret; on the left another, opening
through the great wall into the Beauchamp lesser wing. Walking up the hall,
the fireplace was on the left, and beyond it a passage leading into the
Beauchamp tower; on the right, two bay windows and three ordinary
windows lighted the room, and near the centre was a closet occupying the
middle turret. At the upper or north end of the hall, doors led into the
private rooms, of large size, on both the hall and upper floors, and lighted
with large mullioned windows, looking north into the garden, and west
through a bay cut in the outer wall. In a second floor were the bedrooms,
and, above all, a flat leaded roof, commanding one of the most lovely
prospects in Britain.
This description was drawn up in 1861. Since that time the castle has
undergone great alterations; several new towers have been added, and the
interior has been completely remodelled. Over the vault of the basement is
the library, and above that the hall. The details are in that semi-Italian style
in which Burges was so great a master, and all that a very refined taste, on
the part of both the owner and the architect, could devise, has been executed
in a manner and with a profusion which more than rivals Alnwick.
much as it did ten years ago. The south wing and the present kitchens were
wanting, and the entrance was up a few steps and by an open terrace to the
south-west corner of the pile. Entering, the visitor stood in the hall, 61 feet
long by 18 feet broad, and 13 feet 6 inches high, with a flat ceiling. On the
right was a door opening into the stair-turret; on the left another, opening
through the great wall into the Beauchamp lesser wing. Walking up the hall,
the fireplace was on the left, and beyond it a passage leading into the
Beauchamp tower; on the right, two bay windows and three ordinary
windows lighted the room, and near the centre was a closet occupying the
middle turret. At the upper or north end of the hall, doors led into the
private rooms, of large size, on both the hall and upper floors, and lighted
with large mullioned windows, looking north into the garden, and west
through a bay cut in the outer wall. In a second floor were the bedrooms,
and, above all, a flat leaded roof, commanding one of the most lovely
prospects in Britain.
This description was drawn up in 1861. Since that time the castle has
undergone great alterations; several new towers have been added, and the
interior has been completely remodelled. Over the vault of the basement is
the library, and above that the hall. The details are in that semi-Italian style
in which Burges was so great a master, and all that a very refined taste, on
the part of both the owner and the architect, could devise, has been executed
in a manner and with a profusion which more than rivals Alnwick.
Page 419
CARLISLE CASTLE.
THE city of Carlisle appears first early in the ninth century, in the history of
Nennius, as Cair-Luadiit, or Luilid, or the Castra Luguballia, one of the
“octo et viginti civitates ... cum innumeris castellis ex lapidibus et lateribus
fabricatis,” enumerated by that respectable authority. The fame of Carlisle,
however, is due neither to this early mention, nor to the subsequent gift of
the place by King Ecgfrid to St. Cuthbert, but rather to its name as a centre
of the early cycle of Arthurian romance, well supported by its subsequent
celebration in Border tales and ballads. Indeed, whether in fable or in fact,
Carlisle enjoys no mean reputation. It played a part in the British, Roman,
Saxon, and Danish occupations of the island, and, after having been held as
a frontier fortress, by the Scots against the English, became, in its turn, the
great stronghold of northern England against the Scots, and the scourge of
the wild tribes of the debatable land.
City and castle are naturally strong. The castle occupies a bluff,
projecting towards the north, in a position which no doubt created its early,
and caused its long-continued importance. Across its front flows the deep
and rapid Eden, here seven miles from the sands, and a score from its final
disappearance in the Firth of the Solway. Above the city, and covering its
eastern flank, the Petterill comes down to reinforce the Eden, which river,
close below the city and beneath its walls, receives, by two branches, the
waters of the Caldew, which thus covers the flank of the post towards the
west.
The city, so protected on the three sides on which it was most liable to be
attacked, is built upon ground about 60 feet above the Eden, and which,
slightly rising, terminates to the north in the prominence occupied by the
castle, and which no doubt is the site of the “Caer,” whence, whether of
British or Roman origin, the city derives the first half of its name.
Luguballia, or Caer Luel, does not stand upon, but about a mile within,
the line of the Roman wall. This great work, coming from the direction of
Wallby, and in the line of Linstock and Drawdykes, passed by Stanwix,
THE city of Carlisle appears first early in the ninth century, in the history of
Nennius, as Cair-Luadiit, or Luilid, or the Castra Luguballia, one of the
“octo et viginti civitates ... cum innumeris castellis ex lapidibus et lateribus
fabricatis,” enumerated by that respectable authority. The fame of Carlisle,
however, is due neither to this early mention, nor to the subsequent gift of
the place by King Ecgfrid to St. Cuthbert, but rather to its name as a centre
of the early cycle of Arthurian romance, well supported by its subsequent
celebration in Border tales and ballads. Indeed, whether in fable or in fact,
Carlisle enjoys no mean reputation. It played a part in the British, Roman,
Saxon, and Danish occupations of the island, and, after having been held as
a frontier fortress, by the Scots against the English, became, in its turn, the
great stronghold of northern England against the Scots, and the scourge of
the wild tribes of the debatable land.
City and castle are naturally strong. The castle occupies a bluff,
projecting towards the north, in a position which no doubt created its early,
and caused its long-continued importance. Across its front flows the deep
and rapid Eden, here seven miles from the sands, and a score from its final
disappearance in the Firth of the Solway. Above the city, and covering its
eastern flank, the Petterill comes down to reinforce the Eden, which river,
close below the city and beneath its walls, receives, by two branches, the
waters of the Caldew, which thus covers the flank of the post towards the
west.
The city, so protected on the three sides on which it was most liable to be
attacked, is built upon ground about 60 feet above the Eden, and which,
slightly rising, terminates to the north in the prominence occupied by the
castle, and which no doubt is the site of the “Caer,” whence, whether of
British or Roman origin, the city derives the first half of its name.
Luguballia, or Caer Luel, does not stand upon, but about a mile within,
the line of the Roman wall. This great work, coming from the direction of
Wallby, and in the line of Linstock and Drawdykes, passed by Stanwix,
Page 420
across the river, to terminate on the Solway, at Dykesfield, near Burgh-
upon-Sands.
The castle occupies the northern, highest, and strongest part of the city,
about 60 feet above the river. It is built upon the New Red Sandstone rock,
and to the east, north, and west the slopes are very steep towards the meads,
which fringe to a considerable breadth the left bank of the Eden, and the
right of the Caldew. In plan the castle area is nearly a right-angled triangle,
of which the right angle is to the south-west, and the long side, somewhat
convex, and 256 yards in length, is presented towards the north and east. Of
the other sides, that towards the city on the south is 200 yards, and that to
the west 143 yards in length. The space within the walls is rather under
three acres.
The outer defence towards the city is an artificial ditch, 240 yards long,
30 yards broad, and about 10 yards deep, cut across the high ground from
slope to slope, and stopped at each end by the wall connecting the city with
the castle, which thus, though an independent work, is made to form part of
the general enceinte. Between the castle and the city is an open space, about
78 yards broad, which contains the ditch and a broad glacis, and which,
with the castle, lies outside the municipal boundary. On the west side, about
45 yards within this boundary, is Irishgate Brow, the site of the Irish gate of
the city. The Scottish gate stood on a somewhat similar position on the east
side; and the third or English gate, guarded by the citadel, was at the
opposite or south end of the city.
The castle is composed of an outer and an inner ward, the keep standing
in the latter. The inner ward forms the eastern end or apex of the area, of
which it occupies about a fifth, and it is divided from the outer ward by a
cross wall, 90 yards long, upon the low salient of which is the inner
gatehouse. The other sides of this ward are the east, 96 yards, and the south,
73 yards. The keep stands in the south-west angle, about 20 feet from the
two adjacent curtains, of which the south is thrown out about 18 feet to gain
space, and to form a shoulder flanking the outer gate.
The main entrance is from the city in the middle of the south front, 40
yards west of the keep, through the great gatehouse. The drawbridge across
the ditch was removed in the last century, and is replaced by a bridge of
upon-Sands.
The castle occupies the northern, highest, and strongest part of the city,
about 60 feet above the river. It is built upon the New Red Sandstone rock,
and to the east, north, and west the slopes are very steep towards the meads,
which fringe to a considerable breadth the left bank of the Eden, and the
right of the Caldew. In plan the castle area is nearly a right-angled triangle,
of which the right angle is to the south-west, and the long side, somewhat
convex, and 256 yards in length, is presented towards the north and east. Of
the other sides, that towards the city on the south is 200 yards, and that to
the west 143 yards in length. The space within the walls is rather under
three acres.
The outer defence towards the city is an artificial ditch, 240 yards long,
30 yards broad, and about 10 yards deep, cut across the high ground from
slope to slope, and stopped at each end by the wall connecting the city with
the castle, which thus, though an independent work, is made to form part of
the general enceinte. Between the castle and the city is an open space, about
78 yards broad, which contains the ditch and a broad glacis, and which,
with the castle, lies outside the municipal boundary. On the west side, about
45 yards within this boundary, is Irishgate Brow, the site of the Irish gate of
the city. The Scottish gate stood on a somewhat similar position on the east
side; and the third or English gate, guarded by the citadel, was at the
opposite or south end of the city.
The castle is composed of an outer and an inner ward, the keep standing
in the latter. The inner ward forms the eastern end or apex of the area, of
which it occupies about a fifth, and it is divided from the outer ward by a
cross wall, 90 yards long, upon the low salient of which is the inner
gatehouse. The other sides of this ward are the east, 96 yards, and the south,
73 yards. The keep stands in the south-west angle, about 20 feet from the
two adjacent curtains, of which the south is thrown out about 18 feet to gain
space, and to form a shoulder flanking the outer gate.
The main entrance is from the city in the middle of the south front, 40
yards west of the keep, through the great gatehouse. The drawbridge across
the ditch was removed in the last century, and is replaced by a bridge of
Page 421
stone, which crosses the ditch and leads up to the gatehouse, called John de
Ireby’s or Irby’s tower. It opens into the outer ward.
The plan of this gatehouse is peculiar. It may be conveniently described
as a plain structure, 44 feet square and of 20 feet projection in front of the
line of the curtain. It is composed of a basement and upper floor, but the
entrance, instead of passing, as usual, through the centre of the building, is
at its east end. The south-east angle of the building is hollow, forming a
nook or recess of 18 feet each way, the two outer sides being walls 6 feet
thick, and about half the height of the main building. These walls are
provided with parapets, front and rear, so as to form a covered way, which
communicates with the east curtain. In front of this inclosure is the outer
gate, of 11 feet opening, with a drop-pointed arch, placed in a sunk square-
headed panel, intended to lodge the drawbridge when lifted. This entrance
leads into an open chamber 12 feet square, commanded by its outer walls. It
is, in fact, a barbican, niched in a hollow angle of the gatehouse, with outer
walls the height of the curtain. The barbican leads to a second archway,
with a portcullis in a square groove, and a gate. Then follows a vaulted
passage ending in another gate which opens into the ward. In the passage,
on the left, is a lancet doorway opening upon a rising well-staircase, and
beyond it a drop-arched door opening into the lodge. On the right hand is a
shoulder-headed door, which leads, or did lead, into a staircase. In the front
wall of the gatehouse are two corbels, which seem to have carried a small
oriel or bartisan, commanding the approach. Appended to the east side of
the gatehouse, but entirely within the ward, is a smaller building, fitted on
obliquely, as though an addition.
Entering the outer ward, the well is seen at 40 yards’ distance. The
buildings within the ward are modern, of various degrees of ugliness, and
painfully substantial. Some are detached and harmless; others are built into
the old curtain, so as to conceal and more or less injure it. The curtain,
which is extremely curious, and most of it original, is best seen from the
outside. Besides the gatehouse, it carries but one mural tower,—an original
one, open in the gorge, in the centre of the west front.
The gatehouse of the inner ward is placed upon the salient and central
point of the cross curtain. It is called the Captain’s Tower. It is rectangular,
or nearly so, about 32 feet each way, with a projection from the curtain of
18 feet. There is one floor above the portal, which is central. The gateway is
Ireby’s or Irby’s tower. It opens into the outer ward.
The plan of this gatehouse is peculiar. It may be conveniently described
as a plain structure, 44 feet square and of 20 feet projection in front of the
line of the curtain. It is composed of a basement and upper floor, but the
entrance, instead of passing, as usual, through the centre of the building, is
at its east end. The south-east angle of the building is hollow, forming a
nook or recess of 18 feet each way, the two outer sides being walls 6 feet
thick, and about half the height of the main building. These walls are
provided with parapets, front and rear, so as to form a covered way, which
communicates with the east curtain. In front of this inclosure is the outer
gate, of 11 feet opening, with a drop-pointed arch, placed in a sunk square-
headed panel, intended to lodge the drawbridge when lifted. This entrance
leads into an open chamber 12 feet square, commanded by its outer walls. It
is, in fact, a barbican, niched in a hollow angle of the gatehouse, with outer
walls the height of the curtain. The barbican leads to a second archway,
with a portcullis in a square groove, and a gate. Then follows a vaulted
passage ending in another gate which opens into the ward. In the passage,
on the left, is a lancet doorway opening upon a rising well-staircase, and
beyond it a drop-arched door opening into the lodge. On the right hand is a
shoulder-headed door, which leads, or did lead, into a staircase. In the front
wall of the gatehouse are two corbels, which seem to have carried a small
oriel or bartisan, commanding the approach. Appended to the east side of
the gatehouse, but entirely within the ward, is a smaller building, fitted on
obliquely, as though an addition.
Entering the outer ward, the well is seen at 40 yards’ distance. The
buildings within the ward are modern, of various degrees of ugliness, and
painfully substantial. Some are detached and harmless; others are built into
the old curtain, so as to conceal and more or less injure it. The curtain,
which is extremely curious, and most of it original, is best seen from the
outside. Besides the gatehouse, it carries but one mural tower,—an original
one, open in the gorge, in the centre of the west front.
The gatehouse of the inner ward is placed upon the salient and central
point of the cross curtain. It is called the Captain’s Tower. It is rectangular,
or nearly so, about 32 feet each way, with a projection from the curtain of
18 feet. There is one floor above the portal, which is central. The gateway is
Page 422
a low drop arch, flanked by a pair of buttresses. The passage is vaulted, and
has a door at each end, and at the inner end also a portcullis. Over the
outside of the inner gateway is a ring of tracery, unusual, but effective.
Much of this gatehouse is Decorated, but the buttresses seem Norman.
has a door at each end, and at the inner end also a portcullis. Over the
outside of the inner gateway is a ring of tracery, unusual, but effective.
Much of this gatehouse is Decorated, but the buttresses seem Norman.
Page 423
A. Keep.
B. Inner Gate-house.
C. Outer Gate-house.
D. Queen Mary’s Buildings.
E. Norman Tower.
F. Wells.
G. Ditch.
H. Richard the Third’s Tower.
CARLISLE CASTLE.
B. Inner Gate-house.
C. Outer Gate-house.
D. Queen Mary’s Buildings.
E. Norman Tower.
F. Wells.
G. Ditch.
H. Richard the Third’s Tower.
CARLISLE CASTLE.
Page 424
There was originally a ditch in front of this wall, and a gate with a
drawbridge, all now gone. In later days, a small half-moon battery was
thrown up about 8 yards in advance of this gate, and protected by a ditch of
its own. This battery was connected by a light field-work, which extended
from it to the outer gatehouse, laid in a zigzag form, so as to cover and
protect a communication between the two gates, supposing the outer ward
to have been breached and entered from the north-west side. These works
have been removed and the ground made level.
The cross wall of the inner ward is original, strong, and well built, and
backed by a ramp of earth and masonry, containing casemates, one of which
has a Perpendicular doorway. These were no doubt added, perhaps by
Henry VIII., to enable the wall to carry cannon. In the front of this wall, a
little north of the gatehouse, is a large pointed arch of late Norman aspect,
now walled up, and which may have been the original entrance.
The Keep is rectangular, 66 feet north and south, by 61 feet east and west,
and at present only 68 feet high. It is very plain. There is the common high
and stepped plinth, from which rise pilasters, 12 feet broad and 1 foot
projection, two on each face, meeting at and covering each angle, which is
solid. The walls do not batter, but are reduced slightly by one set-off, at a
different level on each face. The window-cases, though in the original
positions, are not original. The parapet has been removed, and the summit
thus lowered, vaulted and converted into a platform for guns laid en
barbette. The south wall is 8 feet thick, the west rather more, and the east
and adjacent part of the north wall, 15 feet. The interior contains a basement
and two upper floors. It is divided by the usual cross wall, laid north and
south. The presumption is greatly in favour of this wall being a part of the
original design; it has, however, been so much altered that it is difficult to
speak positively as to its age or original height. The entrance is at the
ground level, at the north end of the east face. It has a portcullis, probably
the work of Edward I.; from its jamb on the left, a straight stair ascends in
the east wall to the south-east angle of the first floor, as at Chepstow and
Ludlow. The basement has been subdivided into four compartments, which
are vaulted in stone. One is a passage against the north wall, terminating in
a well-stair in the north-west angle. This stair, now disused, is original, and
led to the first floor, but probably no higher. From the passage doors open
on the left into two vaults, parted by the cross wall of the building. The east
drawbridge, all now gone. In later days, a small half-moon battery was
thrown up about 8 yards in advance of this gate, and protected by a ditch of
its own. This battery was connected by a light field-work, which extended
from it to the outer gatehouse, laid in a zigzag form, so as to cover and
protect a communication between the two gates, supposing the outer ward
to have been breached and entered from the north-west side. These works
have been removed and the ground made level.
The cross wall of the inner ward is original, strong, and well built, and
backed by a ramp of earth and masonry, containing casemates, one of which
has a Perpendicular doorway. These were no doubt added, perhaps by
Henry VIII., to enable the wall to carry cannon. In the front of this wall, a
little north of the gatehouse, is a large pointed arch of late Norman aspect,
now walled up, and which may have been the original entrance.
The Keep is rectangular, 66 feet north and south, by 61 feet east and west,
and at present only 68 feet high. It is very plain. There is the common high
and stepped plinth, from which rise pilasters, 12 feet broad and 1 foot
projection, two on each face, meeting at and covering each angle, which is
solid. The walls do not batter, but are reduced slightly by one set-off, at a
different level on each face. The window-cases, though in the original
positions, are not original. The parapet has been removed, and the summit
thus lowered, vaulted and converted into a platform for guns laid en
barbette. The south wall is 8 feet thick, the west rather more, and the east
and adjacent part of the north wall, 15 feet. The interior contains a basement
and two upper floors. It is divided by the usual cross wall, laid north and
south. The presumption is greatly in favour of this wall being a part of the
original design; it has, however, been so much altered that it is difficult to
speak positively as to its age or original height. The entrance is at the
ground level, at the north end of the east face. It has a portcullis, probably
the work of Edward I.; from its jamb on the left, a straight stair ascends in
the east wall to the south-east angle of the first floor, as at Chepstow and
Ludlow. The basement has been subdivided into four compartments, which
are vaulted in stone. One is a passage against the north wall, terminating in
a well-stair in the north-west angle. This stair, now disused, is original, and
led to the first floor, but probably no higher. From the passage doors open
on the left into two vaults, parted by the cross wall of the building. The east
Page 425
vault is one chamber; the west subdivided by a cross wall into two, the
inner entered through the outer. The vaulting is a plain pointed barrel, very
evidently an insertion. In the smaller vaults are late stone seats. One of the
doorways is of Perpendicular date. These vaults were evidently prisons,
intended no doubt for the custody of Border reivers, and probably a late
addition. In the north wall is a recess connected with the well.
The first floor, about 16 feet high, is vaulted in modern brick, and used as
a mess-room. In its north side was a very large fireplace, flanked by
Norman columns; but this is now walled up. This floor is now entered
solely from the south-east angle, but formerly had also a door near the
north-west corner, from the well-stair. There is also a door near the south-
west angle, which opens into a second well-stair, which probably led to the
upper floors and the battlements. This is now closed, and there is no direct
way from the first to the upper floors.
The second floor is reached, at this time, by an exterior door in the west
wall, approached by an exterior stair on the north face, and from the
rampart on the east. This door is not original, and has been broken through
at the place of a recess, probably looped, which led from the second floor
into a mural chamber and garderobe in the east wall, and which are seen on
the right hand of the door on entering. This second floor is about 16 feet
high, and has a timber ceiling. In the east wall, over the present entrance
door, is a mural chamber, on the walls of which are some curious carvings
by prisoners. One represents the Percy crescent and fetterlock, and another
a coat of arms. From this floor a ladder leads through a trap into the upper
floor—a modern arrangement.
The third or upper floor is vaulted in modern brick to support the gun
platform above. This platform is formed of large slabs of stone, laid down
in 1812, which may also be the date of the vault. The walls above are 11
feet thick all round.
The well of the keep is reputed to be Roman, though this is quite as likely
to be true of the larger one in the outer ward. When the keep was built, the
well, whether new or old, was included within the north wall, between the
doorway and the north-east angle, and its pipe was carried up in the wall, no
doubt with a lighted chamber at each floor, as indicated by a line of loops
still seen in the wall. To make the well available when the keep was shut up
inner entered through the outer. The vaulting is a plain pointed barrel, very
evidently an insertion. In the smaller vaults are late stone seats. One of the
doorways is of Perpendicular date. These vaults were evidently prisons,
intended no doubt for the custody of Border reivers, and probably a late
addition. In the north wall is a recess connected with the well.
The first floor, about 16 feet high, is vaulted in modern brick, and used as
a mess-room. In its north side was a very large fireplace, flanked by
Norman columns; but this is now walled up. This floor is now entered
solely from the south-east angle, but formerly had also a door near the
north-west corner, from the well-stair. There is also a door near the south-
west angle, which opens into a second well-stair, which probably led to the
upper floors and the battlements. This is now closed, and there is no direct
way from the first to the upper floors.
The second floor is reached, at this time, by an exterior door in the west
wall, approached by an exterior stair on the north face, and from the
rampart on the east. This door is not original, and has been broken through
at the place of a recess, probably looped, which led from the second floor
into a mural chamber and garderobe in the east wall, and which are seen on
the right hand of the door on entering. This second floor is about 16 feet
high, and has a timber ceiling. In the east wall, over the present entrance
door, is a mural chamber, on the walls of which are some curious carvings
by prisoners. One represents the Percy crescent and fetterlock, and another
a coat of arms. From this floor a ladder leads through a trap into the upper
floor—a modern arrangement.
The third or upper floor is vaulted in modern brick to support the gun
platform above. This platform is formed of large slabs of stone, laid down
in 1812, which may also be the date of the vault. The walls above are 11
feet thick all round.
The well of the keep is reputed to be Roman, though this is quite as likely
to be true of the larger one in the outer ward. When the keep was built, the
well, whether new or old, was included within the north wall, between the
doorway and the north-east angle, and its pipe was carried up in the wall, no
doubt with a lighted chamber at each floor, as indicated by a line of loops
still seen in the wall. To make the well available when the keep was shut up
Page 426
as a prison, a hole was cut in the outside of the north wall, near the ground
level, into the pipe of the well, and through this the water is still drawn up.
The well is 78 feet deep, and its present cill is 92 feet above the sea level.
A curious external stair, probably Edwardian, has been built against the
north face of the keep, and leads up, by the well, to the ramparts of the
curtain, and so to the door of the second floor of the keep. No doubt its
original use was to lead to the ramparts only.
The keep, though much disfigured to make it carry artillery, and much
obscured by its conversion into prisons, a mess-room, and store-rooms, is
for the most part original, and if cleared, as it should be, of the vaultings of
the upper floors, would be a tolerably perfect specimen of a Norman keep,
with a full share of mural chambers and appendages.
The hall and other domestic buildings, including what was called Queen
Mary’s Tower, most of which were standing at the close of the last century,
were ranged at the south-east angle, upon the adjacent walls, as shown in
Grose’s view. All are now gone save a fragment of panelled work, part of
the shell of a grand staircase of early Edwardian date, which led to the chief
apartments.
It appears that in the east wall, near its south end, and, therefore, under
the midst of these apartments, was, in the last century, a Norman postern
with chevron mouldings and a portcullis groove, leading from the inner
ward into the field, independent of the city. These details are shown in some
of the late views of the castle. Grose, in 1774, shows, obscurely, the
position and size of the gateway, and the Norman pilasters by which the
adjacent wall was strengthened. The upper part of this curtain seems to have
been Early English. All about this angle is now modern.
The space between the keep and its adjacent curtains has been filled up
with earth, kept off from the keep by a sort of area wall, and thus the
ramparts here, as well as along the cross wall, are made wide enough for
cannon. The upfilling is modern, and should be cleared out.
A walk, called the “Castle Walk,” or Castle Bank, has been laid out at the
foot of the curtain outside, whence its details may be conveniently studied.
The south-east angle, as has been said, is modern, but proceeding north and
westward the old Norman part comes into view, and on the north side of the
level, into the pipe of the well, and through this the water is still drawn up.
The well is 78 feet deep, and its present cill is 92 feet above the sea level.
A curious external stair, probably Edwardian, has been built against the
north face of the keep, and leads up, by the well, to the ramparts of the
curtain, and so to the door of the second floor of the keep. No doubt its
original use was to lead to the ramparts only.
The keep, though much disfigured to make it carry artillery, and much
obscured by its conversion into prisons, a mess-room, and store-rooms, is
for the most part original, and if cleared, as it should be, of the vaultings of
the upper floors, would be a tolerably perfect specimen of a Norman keep,
with a full share of mural chambers and appendages.
The hall and other domestic buildings, including what was called Queen
Mary’s Tower, most of which were standing at the close of the last century,
were ranged at the south-east angle, upon the adjacent walls, as shown in
Grose’s view. All are now gone save a fragment of panelled work, part of
the shell of a grand staircase of early Edwardian date, which led to the chief
apartments.
It appears that in the east wall, near its south end, and, therefore, under
the midst of these apartments, was, in the last century, a Norman postern
with chevron mouldings and a portcullis groove, leading from the inner
ward into the field, independent of the city. These details are shown in some
of the late views of the castle. Grose, in 1774, shows, obscurely, the
position and size of the gateway, and the Norman pilasters by which the
adjacent wall was strengthened. The upper part of this curtain seems to have
been Early English. All about this angle is now modern.
The space between the keep and its adjacent curtains has been filled up
with earth, kept off from the keep by a sort of area wall, and thus the
ramparts here, as well as along the cross wall, are made wide enough for
cannon. The upfilling is modern, and should be cleared out.
A walk, called the “Castle Walk,” or Castle Bank, has been laid out at the
foot of the curtain outside, whence its details may be conveniently studied.
The south-east angle, as has been said, is modern, but proceeding north and
westward the old Norman part comes into view, and on the north side of the
Page 427
inner ward the Norman pilasters are seen rising from a plinth, but partly
concealed by six enormous stepped buttresses of great projection, and
Decorated or Perpendicular date, no doubt a great support to the wall and
very curious, but, in a military point of view, very much in the way.
From near the centre of the north front there was a spur work, composed
of a strong curtain wall, carried down the slope and ending in a round
tower. This was of course intended to annoy the enemy should he attack on
the west side. The whole is now removed: possibly it was an Edwardian
addition. The north face of the curtain and its north-west corner have been
much restored in the Decorated period, but most of the west wall is original.
Near its centre is a small tower, like the Alnwick Garret Tower, 28 feet
broad by 18 feet deep, and about 9 feet projection, and open at the gorge. It
is wholly Norman, of the date of the keep. It has a stepped plinth about 10
feet high, with six sets-off of 2 inches each, and on the front face is a central
pilaster, dying into the wall at the base of the original parapet. In its north
face, high up, is the shoot of a garderobe flush with the face of the wall, and
lower down a stone water-spout. About 10 yards south of this tower are
traces of a small postern. The wall connecting the castle with the city on
this side is of Norman origin; but has some buttresses apparently
Edwardian, in one of which is a garderobe shoot, similar to that of the
garret tower. Upon this wall, south of the ditch, is King Richard III.’s, or
Tile Tower, 26 feet broad by 20 feet deep, of no internal projection. This
looks Edwardian, but probably is altered from Norman. It stands about 30
yards north of the city boundary. It is said that a few years ago a
subterranean passage was discovered between this tower and the keep, and
was at once closed up. This is stated in the “History of Carlisle, 1838,” and
should be true, but it seems improbable, for the passage must have dipped
deep to pass under the ditch.
The south wall of the castle is for the most part original, the Norman
pilasters being seen east and west of the gatehouse. East again of these, as
far as the keep, the wall seems Edwardian, but beyond that, where it
belongs to the inner ward, it is Norman.
The wall between the south-east angle of the castle and the city, about 90
yards long, is mixed Norman and Edwardian, and as it crosses the ditch it
makes a zigzag or shoulder, in which is a large round-headed postern
gateway, either original or in the place of an original opening, intended,
concealed by six enormous stepped buttresses of great projection, and
Decorated or Perpendicular date, no doubt a great support to the wall and
very curious, but, in a military point of view, very much in the way.
From near the centre of the north front there was a spur work, composed
of a strong curtain wall, carried down the slope and ending in a round
tower. This was of course intended to annoy the enemy should he attack on
the west side. The whole is now removed: possibly it was an Edwardian
addition. The north face of the curtain and its north-west corner have been
much restored in the Decorated period, but most of the west wall is original.
Near its centre is a small tower, like the Alnwick Garret Tower, 28 feet
broad by 18 feet deep, and about 9 feet projection, and open at the gorge. It
is wholly Norman, of the date of the keep. It has a stepped plinth about 10
feet high, with six sets-off of 2 inches each, and on the front face is a central
pilaster, dying into the wall at the base of the original parapet. In its north
face, high up, is the shoot of a garderobe flush with the face of the wall, and
lower down a stone water-spout. About 10 yards south of this tower are
traces of a small postern. The wall connecting the castle with the city on
this side is of Norman origin; but has some buttresses apparently
Edwardian, in one of which is a garderobe shoot, similar to that of the
garret tower. Upon this wall, south of the ditch, is King Richard III.’s, or
Tile Tower, 26 feet broad by 20 feet deep, of no internal projection. This
looks Edwardian, but probably is altered from Norman. It stands about 30
yards north of the city boundary. It is said that a few years ago a
subterranean passage was discovered between this tower and the keep, and
was at once closed up. This is stated in the “History of Carlisle, 1838,” and
should be true, but it seems improbable, for the passage must have dipped
deep to pass under the ditch.
The south wall of the castle is for the most part original, the Norman
pilasters being seen east and west of the gatehouse. East again of these, as
far as the keep, the wall seems Edwardian, but beyond that, where it
belongs to the inner ward, it is Norman.
The wall between the south-east angle of the castle and the city, about 90
yards long, is mixed Norman and Edwardian, and as it crosses the ditch it
makes a zigzag or shoulder, in which is a large round-headed postern
gateway, either original or in the place of an original opening, intended,
Page 428
probably, to allow of cattle being driven on to the esplanade and ditch from
the meads on the approach of an enemy. Probably there was a way from this
gate along what is called the Lady’s Walk, at the foot of the south wall, as
far as the great gate. South of this postern, near what is called the city stone,
are traces of a large bastion, probably a part of the city defences. The
postern is now walled up, and a bank of earth raised against it behind.
The enceinte wall of the castle, being built against the natural slope, is
outside about 28 feet and inside 18 feet high. It varies from 8 feet to 10 feet
thick.
The plan of the castle—a headland converted into a detached camp by a
cross ditch—may be British or English, but the general outline of the
masonry, which follows the line of the earthworks, is Norman. The Norman
engineer evidently built the enceinte wall along the edge of the slope, and
planned the inner and outer ward, and the keep. The castle is generally
attributed to William Rufus, who was here in 1092, when Carlisle, from a
Scottish, became an English frontier place. The see was created by Henry I.,
and the first bishop consecrated in 1133, when probably the city wall, of
which a part may still be seen below the deanery, was built. Carlisle was
taken by the Scots, and besieged by Stephen and by John. The latter
sovereign was here four times in the years 1201–6-8, and 1212. In 1204 the
constable of Chester was ordered sixty marcs for fortifying the castle. In
1205 certain grass cut in the neighbourhood was to be stored there. In 1215
Robert de Ros was custos of the castle, but in 1216 Robert de Vipont seems
to have been in charge of the repairs and the garrison.
In 1222 Henry III. ordered the houses within the castle to be repaired,
and two ballistæ of horn and two of wood were to be sent there. Walter
Mauclerc was in charge. In 1222 the garrison was continued, and in the
king’s pay.
Edward I. used Carlisle in the Scottish wars, and was here in 1293, after
the great fire, which much injured both city and castle in the preceding year.
Between 1293 and 1307, he was here seven times, often for many days. He
kept his last birthday here in 1307, and went forth hence to die in the
immediate neighbourhood. To his reign are to be attributed most of the
Edwardian additions, repairs of the wall and keep, the gatehouses, and the
domestic buildings, of which only traces remain. In 1302, Bishop Hatton,
the meads on the approach of an enemy. Probably there was a way from this
gate along what is called the Lady’s Walk, at the foot of the south wall, as
far as the great gate. South of this postern, near what is called the city stone,
are traces of a large bastion, probably a part of the city defences. The
postern is now walled up, and a bank of earth raised against it behind.
The enceinte wall of the castle, being built against the natural slope, is
outside about 28 feet and inside 18 feet high. It varies from 8 feet to 10 feet
thick.
The plan of the castle—a headland converted into a detached camp by a
cross ditch—may be British or English, but the general outline of the
masonry, which follows the line of the earthworks, is Norman. The Norman
engineer evidently built the enceinte wall along the edge of the slope, and
planned the inner and outer ward, and the keep. The castle is generally
attributed to William Rufus, who was here in 1092, when Carlisle, from a
Scottish, became an English frontier place. The see was created by Henry I.,
and the first bishop consecrated in 1133, when probably the city wall, of
which a part may still be seen below the deanery, was built. Carlisle was
taken by the Scots, and besieged by Stephen and by John. The latter
sovereign was here four times in the years 1201–6-8, and 1212. In 1204 the
constable of Chester was ordered sixty marcs for fortifying the castle. In
1205 certain grass cut in the neighbourhood was to be stored there. In 1215
Robert de Ros was custos of the castle, but in 1216 Robert de Vipont seems
to have been in charge of the repairs and the garrison.
In 1222 Henry III. ordered the houses within the castle to be repaired,
and two ballistæ of horn and two of wood were to be sent there. Walter
Mauclerc was in charge. In 1222 the garrison was continued, and in the
king’s pay.
Edward I. used Carlisle in the Scottish wars, and was here in 1293, after
the great fire, which much injured both city and castle in the preceding year.
Between 1293 and 1307, he was here seven times, often for many days. He
kept his last birthday here in 1307, and went forth hence to die in the
immediate neighbourhood. To his reign are to be attributed most of the
Edwardian additions, repairs of the wall and keep, the gatehouses, and the
domestic buildings, of which only traces remain. In 1302, Bishop Hatton,
Page 429
then governor, expended £275. 4s. 11d. in works. The Great Hall, supposed
to have been then erected, needed repairs in 1344.
Camden says that Richard III. repaired the castle, and the six marvellous
buttresses may be of that date, though they look earlier. Henry VIII. appears
to have much altered the castle, probably to make it carry artillery. He built
a block-house or citadel at the south end of the city, and armed it with
cannon, and he repaired the city walls. His work was probably done in
haste, for, in 1563, the whole was in great decay, as appears from a survey
made by the queen’s order, printed by Grose. Three sides of the keep were
in a dangerous state. The Captain’s Tower wanted parapets, as did much of
the inner curtain, and all the glass of the great hall and great chamber was
decayed. In the outer ward was an open breach, 70 feet long, where the wall
had fallen in 1557. The result of this survey was the building a chapel and
barrack, and no doubt the reparation of the wall and keep.
Mary Queen of Scots found some sort of accommodation here when she
fled from Scotland, and gave name to the lodgings lately pulled down. The
castle suffered somewhat during the great rebellion, but escaped being
dismantled. It was battered from the west, and taken by the Duke of
Cumberland in 1745.
Probably the greatest and most destructive changes are those of modern
date. The hall was taken down in 1827, and the chapel and other buildings
in 1835.
There are traces of two light field-works in the meads north of the castle,
the smaller in the rear of the other, evidently prepared for the reception of
the Scots, in 1745, as they approached over the brow at Stanwix.
The castle is far too confined and too much a part of the city for the
purpose to which it is applied. The military should be removed, the modern
buildings cleared away, the keep restored, and the area laid out for the
pleasure of the people of Carlisle, and so as to show off the remains to the
greatest advantage.
In the neighbourhood of Carlisle are other military works deserving
notice. Such is, at Hayton, Castle Hill, a mound 12 feet high, and 100 feet
diameter at the top. Linstock Castle was built before 1133, but is now little
more than a farmhouse, into which it was converted in 1768. Scaleby Castle
to have been then erected, needed repairs in 1344.
Camden says that Richard III. repaired the castle, and the six marvellous
buttresses may be of that date, though they look earlier. Henry VIII. appears
to have much altered the castle, probably to make it carry artillery. He built
a block-house or citadel at the south end of the city, and armed it with
cannon, and he repaired the city walls. His work was probably done in
haste, for, in 1563, the whole was in great decay, as appears from a survey
made by the queen’s order, printed by Grose. Three sides of the keep were
in a dangerous state. The Captain’s Tower wanted parapets, as did much of
the inner curtain, and all the glass of the great hall and great chamber was
decayed. In the outer ward was an open breach, 70 feet long, where the wall
had fallen in 1557. The result of this survey was the building a chapel and
barrack, and no doubt the reparation of the wall and keep.
Mary Queen of Scots found some sort of accommodation here when she
fled from Scotland, and gave name to the lodgings lately pulled down. The
castle suffered somewhat during the great rebellion, but escaped being
dismantled. It was battered from the west, and taken by the Duke of
Cumberland in 1745.
Probably the greatest and most destructive changes are those of modern
date. The hall was taken down in 1827, and the chapel and other buildings
in 1835.
There are traces of two light field-works in the meads north of the castle,
the smaller in the rear of the other, evidently prepared for the reception of
the Scots, in 1745, as they approached over the brow at Stanwix.
The castle is far too confined and too much a part of the city for the
purpose to which it is applied. The military should be removed, the modern
buildings cleared away, the keep restored, and the area laid out for the
pleasure of the people of Carlisle, and so as to show off the remains to the
greatest advantage.
In the neighbourhood of Carlisle are other military works deserving
notice. Such is, at Hayton, Castle Hill, a mound 12 feet high, and 100 feet
diameter at the top. Linstock Castle was built before 1133, but is now little
more than a farmhouse, into which it was converted in 1768. Scaleby Castle
Page 430
was built by Robert de Tilliol, who had licence to crenellate it in 1307. It
was largely repaired in 1596, but retains much of its original character, and
has always been inhabited. Naworth Castle was the chief seat of the English
Barony of Gillsland, at the Conquest granted to Hubert de Vaux, from
whom it descended through the Dacres to the Howards. The present
structure was the work of Ralph Lord Dacre, in 1335, and is a good
example of the quadrangular castles of that date. Rose Castle was in the
Barony of Dalston, and is attributed to 1336, when Bishop Kirby had a
licence to crenellate. It was also a moated quadrangle. Highhead Castle, on
the Ive, is drawn by Buck. Here was a castle in 1326, but the licence is
dated in 1342. The castle was rebuilt in 1714. Dalston Hall is a castellated
house, probably of the middle of the fourteenth century.
The Roman wall may be traced at various points, both east and west of
the passage of the Eden. It is well seen in a field close to Drawdykes, a stiff,
square farmhouse, built on the site of a Roman Castellum. The inscription
“Diis Manibus,” built into its walls, is said to have been dug up in Carlisle,
near the old citadel.
was largely repaired in 1596, but retains much of its original character, and
has always been inhabited. Naworth Castle was the chief seat of the English
Barony of Gillsland, at the Conquest granted to Hubert de Vaux, from
whom it descended through the Dacres to the Howards. The present
structure was the work of Ralph Lord Dacre, in 1335, and is a good
example of the quadrangular castles of that date. Rose Castle was in the
Barony of Dalston, and is attributed to 1336, when Bishop Kirby had a
licence to crenellate. It was also a moated quadrangle. Highhead Castle, on
the Ive, is drawn by Buck. Here was a castle in 1326, but the licence is
dated in 1342. The castle was rebuilt in 1714. Dalston Hall is a castellated
house, probably of the middle of the fourteenth century.
The Roman wall may be traced at various points, both east and west of
the passage of the Eden. It is well seen in a field close to Drawdykes, a stiff,
square farmhouse, built on the site of a Roman Castellum. The inscription
“Diis Manibus,” built into its walls, is said to have been dug up in Carlisle,
near the old citadel.
Page 431
CASTELL COCH, GLAMORGAN.
THE river Taff, from its origin under the Brecon Beacons, after a course of
about 26 miles through the northern and mountain district of Glamorgan,
escapes by a deep and narrow ravine across the last elevation, and rolls its
course, unfettered, to the Bristol Channel.
The ridge which it thus finally cleaves, and which divides the hill country
from the plain, is part of the great southern escarpment of the coal basin of
Glamorgan, supported there by the mountain limestone rising from below,
and in its turn reposing upon the old red sandstone, the denuded surface of
which forms, under the later horizontal rocks and drift gravel, the basis of
the plain. The escarpment, extending for many miles along the contiguous
counties of Monmouth and Glamorgan, is traversed, in this immediate
neighbourhood, by the three passes of the Ebbw, the Rhymny, and the Taff.
The heights bounding the latter river, though in actual elevation below some
other parts of the chain, produce a very striking effect, from the abruptness
of their rise from the plain.
These heights, on each side of the pass, must always have been regarded
by the inhabitants of the country as places of great security. On the right
bank of the river, the huge lumpish sandstone mass of the Garth rises to 981
feet above the sea, and is crowned by two remarkable tumuli, well known
as landmarks in the vale, and visible even from the distant shores of
Somerset. The lower Garth, which rises to the front of the great Garth,
opposite to Castell Coch, forms the right bank of the pass.
The elevation on the left bank, though lower, is more precipitous. It
presents, in the lichen-stained crags about its summits, and the rich verdure
which clothes its sides and base, all those features so well known to
geologists as characterising the scenery of the mountain limestone.
Nature has rendered the west and south sides of this height— those
exposed to any foe from beyond sea—nearly inaccessible. Across the north-
eastern side, lines of circumvallation have been hewn out of the rock, the
THE river Taff, from its origin under the Brecon Beacons, after a course of
about 26 miles through the northern and mountain district of Glamorgan,
escapes by a deep and narrow ravine across the last elevation, and rolls its
course, unfettered, to the Bristol Channel.
The ridge which it thus finally cleaves, and which divides the hill country
from the plain, is part of the great southern escarpment of the coal basin of
Glamorgan, supported there by the mountain limestone rising from below,
and in its turn reposing upon the old red sandstone, the denuded surface of
which forms, under the later horizontal rocks and drift gravel, the basis of
the plain. The escarpment, extending for many miles along the contiguous
counties of Monmouth and Glamorgan, is traversed, in this immediate
neighbourhood, by the three passes of the Ebbw, the Rhymny, and the Taff.
The heights bounding the latter river, though in actual elevation below some
other parts of the chain, produce a very striking effect, from the abruptness
of their rise from the plain.
These heights, on each side of the pass, must always have been regarded
by the inhabitants of the country as places of great security. On the right
bank of the river, the huge lumpish sandstone mass of the Garth rises to 981
feet above the sea, and is crowned by two remarkable tumuli, well known
as landmarks in the vale, and visible even from the distant shores of
Somerset. The lower Garth, which rises to the front of the great Garth,
opposite to Castell Coch, forms the right bank of the pass.
The elevation on the left bank, though lower, is more precipitous. It
presents, in the lichen-stained crags about its summits, and the rich verdure
which clothes its sides and base, all those features so well known to
geologists as characterising the scenery of the mountain limestone.
Nature has rendered the west and south sides of this height— those
exposed to any foe from beyond sea—nearly inaccessible. Across the north-
eastern side, lines of circumvallation have been hewn out of the rock, the
Page 432
dimensions of which show the value attached to the place, as a fortress, by
the Cymry.
There was reason in the choice. From hence the long ships of the Danish
rovers could be seen while yet distant from the shore, and timely notice be
given, and protection afforded to, the people of the plain, should the
ravagers extend their sweep far inwards from the coast. A beacon fire upon
the headland of Penarth—celebrated in Anglo-Norman verse for its ancient
oak, and long marked by its white church—answered here, or on the
opposite Garth, would be repeated from the summits of the distant
mountains of Brecon and Caermarthen, and would at once spread the
tidings of invasion over the whole of the southern coast.
The Normans, within a century and a half after the conquest of
Glamorgan, had completed a chain of castles along the plain country, from
Chepstow to Pembroke, and were only exposed to the invasions of the
Welsh from the mountain tracts upon the north. To check these they threw
up a number of fortresses, either upon, or within the verge of, the hill
country, of which Morlais and Castell Coch may be cited as examples.
The site of the Cymric camp was far too difficult of access to allow of the
ready transport into it of provisions, or munitions of war, or of a constant
and rapid communication with the chief castle at Cardiff. Lower down the
scarp, though still high above the plain, the Norman engineer selected a
natural platform on the limestone rock, separated from the main scarp by a
natural depression, and sufficiently removed from the summit to be out of
the reach of any military engines with which the Welsh were likely to be
acquainted, or which they were likely to be able to bring, with their forces,
against the castle. There is an easy approach to this platform from the east,
which probably communicated with the old road, called Roman, and no
doubt Cymric, which leads direct from Cardiff to Rubina, and close upon
which is the low circular mound, which was the site of a tower of the time
of Henry III., at Whitchurch, and the Celtic tumulus of Twmpath. Upon this
platform was erected the fortress which is here to be described.
Castell Coch, so called from the red tint of its materials, is, in general
plan, a triangle, each angle being capped by a drum tower. Its general
divisions are the south, east, and northern towers, the gate tower, the
curtains and hall, and the outworks.
the Cymry.
There was reason in the choice. From hence the long ships of the Danish
rovers could be seen while yet distant from the shore, and timely notice be
given, and protection afforded to, the people of the plain, should the
ravagers extend their sweep far inwards from the coast. A beacon fire upon
the headland of Penarth—celebrated in Anglo-Norman verse for its ancient
oak, and long marked by its white church—answered here, or on the
opposite Garth, would be repeated from the summits of the distant
mountains of Brecon and Caermarthen, and would at once spread the
tidings of invasion over the whole of the southern coast.
The Normans, within a century and a half after the conquest of
Glamorgan, had completed a chain of castles along the plain country, from
Chepstow to Pembroke, and were only exposed to the invasions of the
Welsh from the mountain tracts upon the north. To check these they threw
up a number of fortresses, either upon, or within the verge of, the hill
country, of which Morlais and Castell Coch may be cited as examples.
The site of the Cymric camp was far too difficult of access to allow of the
ready transport into it of provisions, or munitions of war, or of a constant
and rapid communication with the chief castle at Cardiff. Lower down the
scarp, though still high above the plain, the Norman engineer selected a
natural platform on the limestone rock, separated from the main scarp by a
natural depression, and sufficiently removed from the summit to be out of
the reach of any military engines with which the Welsh were likely to be
acquainted, or which they were likely to be able to bring, with their forces,
against the castle. There is an easy approach to this platform from the east,
which probably communicated with the old road, called Roman, and no
doubt Cymric, which leads direct from Cardiff to Rubina, and close upon
which is the low circular mound, which was the site of a tower of the time
of Henry III., at Whitchurch, and the Celtic tumulus of Twmpath. Upon this
platform was erected the fortress which is here to be described.
Castell Coch, so called from the red tint of its materials, is, in general
plan, a triangle, each angle being capped by a drum tower. Its general
divisions are the south, east, and northern towers, the gate tower, the
curtains and hall, and the outworks.
Page 433
The platform occupied by the whole is about 200 yards long by 70 yards
broad, and the principal works of the castle occupy its west end. The south
face is, in part, precipitous, and from 20 feet to 30 feet high. The north face,
towards the upper hill-side, is deepened into a formidable moat, and the east
end was defended by a fosse, cut deeply across the rock, and beyond this by
two towers, connected by a curtain wall.
The North Tower rises from a square base to a cylindrical superstructure,
the north and south angles terminating in buttresses, each the half of a
pyramid cut vertically and diagonally across, after a fashion very common
in Welsh castles, and well seen in Marten’s tower at Chepstow. The cylinder
is 40 feet in diameter. It contains three stories, of which the middle one is
on a level with the inner court, or terre-plein, of the place.
The lower story may have been a cellar. It is vaulted, and has two great
cross-springer ribs, and two windows opening high above the floor. A
narrow passage, vaulted, with steps, leads into it from the court. Its internal
diameter is 18 feet, its walls upwards of 10 feet thick. The windows were
mere loopholes.
The middle story is also circular and vaulted, with similar ribs. Here,
however, the windows open nearly on the level of the floor, though also
loops. There is a fireplace, with a flue carried up in the wall. The flue is
backed with stone. The entrance to this chamber is also from the court, and,
on the east side of the vaulted passage, a gallery passes off in the thickness
of the wall, and leads to what was a small garderobe, occupying a square
projection on the east side of the tower, at its junction with the curtain. The
general dimensions of this story, and the thickness of the walls, correspond
with those of the room below.
The upper story contains one chamber, the south and east sides of which
are flat, the rest circular. Here are no less than three fireplaces, each of large
dimensions, with funnels in the thickness of the wall. It contains also two
small recesses, one a sort of sink, and has two windows. There are also two
doors, one, on the south side, opening upon the roof and ramparts of the hall
and west front, the other, eastwards, leading to the ramparts of the great or
northern curtain. Access to this chamber, from below, seems to have been
obtained by an exterior stair between the tower and the hall. This story,
within, is about 26 feet mean diameter, and the walls vary from 2 feet 3
broad, and the principal works of the castle occupy its west end. The south
face is, in part, precipitous, and from 20 feet to 30 feet high. The north face,
towards the upper hill-side, is deepened into a formidable moat, and the east
end was defended by a fosse, cut deeply across the rock, and beyond this by
two towers, connected by a curtain wall.
The North Tower rises from a square base to a cylindrical superstructure,
the north and south angles terminating in buttresses, each the half of a
pyramid cut vertically and diagonally across, after a fashion very common
in Welsh castles, and well seen in Marten’s tower at Chepstow. The cylinder
is 40 feet in diameter. It contains three stories, of which the middle one is
on a level with the inner court, or terre-plein, of the place.
The lower story may have been a cellar. It is vaulted, and has two great
cross-springer ribs, and two windows opening high above the floor. A
narrow passage, vaulted, with steps, leads into it from the court. Its internal
diameter is 18 feet, its walls upwards of 10 feet thick. The windows were
mere loopholes.
The middle story is also circular and vaulted, with similar ribs. Here,
however, the windows open nearly on the level of the floor, though also
loops. There is a fireplace, with a flue carried up in the wall. The flue is
backed with stone. The entrance to this chamber is also from the court, and,
on the east side of the vaulted passage, a gallery passes off in the thickness
of the wall, and leads to what was a small garderobe, occupying a square
projection on the east side of the tower, at its junction with the curtain. The
general dimensions of this story, and the thickness of the walls, correspond
with those of the room below.
The upper story contains one chamber, the south and east sides of which
are flat, the rest circular. Here are no less than three fireplaces, each of large
dimensions, with funnels in the thickness of the wall. It contains also two
small recesses, one a sort of sink, and has two windows. There are also two
doors, one, on the south side, opening upon the roof and ramparts of the hall
and west front, the other, eastwards, leading to the ramparts of the great or
northern curtain. Access to this chamber, from below, seems to have been
obtained by an exterior stair between the tower and the hall. This story,
within, is about 26 feet mean diameter, and the walls vary from 2 feet 3
Page 434
inches to 4 feet thick. It was roofed flat, with timber, and above were
ramparts and a parapet, probably reached by means of a trap-door in the
roof. It was evidently the kitchen, here, as at Morlais and Coningsburgh,
placed in an upper floor.
This tower is the most perfect of the whole, and in tolerable preservation,
although the lower chamber is half full of rubbish; the small apartment
connected with the middle story is broken down, and the roof and ramparts
are wanting on the summit. This tower, however, is evidently the type of,
and has served in the present instance as a clue to, the original plan of the
others.
The South Tower corresponded nearly to the last, and, like it, appears to
have contained three chambers, and at its junction with the west curtain, a
square projection, containing in the middle story a small garderobe, and in
the upper, probably a communication with the battlements of the hall. The
lower chamber is entered by a vaulted passage, down steps, from the
courtyard. The middle or main chamber probably was entered on the level,
by a passage from the courtyard, and a mural gallery seems to have led
from this passage to the window or opening in the south end of the hall. The
upper chamber was accessible from the hall battlements, as it probably also
was from those of the gateway curtain. It is uncertain whether this tower
rose from a square base—probably it did. Its upper part was cylindrical, 40
feet diameter. The walls are 8 feet thick, and the chambers do not appear to
have been vaulted. This tower is in a ruined state. The two outer thirds of its
circumference have been blown away by a mine, but the part connected
with the hall, including a door below, two windows in the lower and middle
story, and the small chamber in the wall, remain tolerably perfect, and
remove all doubts as to the original elevation and particulars of the whole.
The East Tower corresponds in altitude and general arrangements to the
other two, like them containing three stories. It is cylindrical from the base,
and 40 feet diameter; but, towards the courtyard, it presents a flat face, with
two shoulders projecting at its junction with its curtains. Like the other
towers, it has a square projection for a small chamber, here found at its
junction outside with the great or northern curtain. The lower story, like
those of the other towers, is below the level of the court, but instead of
being entered directly by a distinct staircase, a gallery branches off from the
passage to the middle chamber, and descends, winding in the thickness of
ramparts and a parapet, probably reached by means of a trap-door in the
roof. It was evidently the kitchen, here, as at Morlais and Coningsburgh,
placed in an upper floor.
This tower is the most perfect of the whole, and in tolerable preservation,
although the lower chamber is half full of rubbish; the small apartment
connected with the middle story is broken down, and the roof and ramparts
are wanting on the summit. This tower, however, is evidently the type of,
and has served in the present instance as a clue to, the original plan of the
others.
The South Tower corresponded nearly to the last, and, like it, appears to
have contained three chambers, and at its junction with the west curtain, a
square projection, containing in the middle story a small garderobe, and in
the upper, probably a communication with the battlements of the hall. The
lower chamber is entered by a vaulted passage, down steps, from the
courtyard. The middle or main chamber probably was entered on the level,
by a passage from the courtyard, and a mural gallery seems to have led
from this passage to the window or opening in the south end of the hall. The
upper chamber was accessible from the hall battlements, as it probably also
was from those of the gateway curtain. It is uncertain whether this tower
rose from a square base—probably it did. Its upper part was cylindrical, 40
feet diameter. The walls are 8 feet thick, and the chambers do not appear to
have been vaulted. This tower is in a ruined state. The two outer thirds of its
circumference have been blown away by a mine, but the part connected
with the hall, including a door below, two windows in the lower and middle
story, and the small chamber in the wall, remain tolerably perfect, and
remove all doubts as to the original elevation and particulars of the whole.
The East Tower corresponds in altitude and general arrangements to the
other two, like them containing three stories. It is cylindrical from the base,
and 40 feet diameter; but, towards the courtyard, it presents a flat face, with
two shoulders projecting at its junction with its curtains. Like the other
towers, it has a square projection for a small chamber, here found at its
junction outside with the great or northern curtain. The lower story, like
those of the other towers, is below the level of the court, but instead of
being entered directly by a distinct staircase, a gallery branches off from the
passage to the middle chamber, and descends, winding in the thickness of
Page 435
the wall, to a vaulted prison below. This lower chamber is filled up, but its
existence is evident enough, and the staircase is seen through a great rent in
the wall. The diameter is 18 feet 4 inches, and the thickness of the wall 10
feet 10 inches.
The first floor is entered by a passage from the court, on a level. This
chamber had two loops. There is no fireplace, and no trace of a vault,
although the walls are above 10 feet thick. On either hand, opening out of
the passage leading to this chamber, are galleries in the wall, that on the
right descending to the chamber below, that on the left running on a level,
to open into a small chamber in the square projection between the tower and
the great curtain. Here seems to have been the well. The upper chamber
appears to have been entered from the ramparts by a long pointed doorway
in the gorge; and over the lower door, leading from this, on the right, a
passage leads to a spiral stair in the wall, which evidently gave access to the
battlements of the tower. This tower has been rent asunder by a central
explosion, but the outer part has only shifted a little.
The Hall stands upon a vaulted chamber, now filled up with rubbish. It
occupies the space between the north and south towers, which it connects,
its outer wall forming the curtain between them. It is rectangular, 30 feet 8
inches by 17 feet 8 inches, vaulted, with a pointed arch, and having its outer
wall 7 feet, and its inner wall 6 feet, thick. In the former are three loops,
splayed towards the interior, and having pointed heads. They are high above
the base of the wall, and command a fine view. The door was near the north
end of the opposite side, and possibly there may have been a fireplace on
the same side with the door. At the south end is a window, which opens into
a sort of gallery in the south tower.
Above the vaulted roof was, probably, a platform, with a low battlement
towards the court, and a high one towards the exterior of the castle. This
platform communicated with the north and south towers directly, and with
the court by a narrow stair, already noticed as leading to the upper chamber
of the north tower. The hall is now much mutilated, the vault and part of the
east wall being destroyed.
The great curtain is a large irregular segment of a circle, about 80 feet
exterior face, and with a chord of about 60 feet. It originally was a wall 3
feet thick, which appears to have been found of insufficient breadth for the
existence is evident enough, and the staircase is seen through a great rent in
the wall. The diameter is 18 feet 4 inches, and the thickness of the wall 10
feet 10 inches.
The first floor is entered by a passage from the court, on a level. This
chamber had two loops. There is no fireplace, and no trace of a vault,
although the walls are above 10 feet thick. On either hand, opening out of
the passage leading to this chamber, are galleries in the wall, that on the
right descending to the chamber below, that on the left running on a level,
to open into a small chamber in the square projection between the tower and
the great curtain. Here seems to have been the well. The upper chamber
appears to have been entered from the ramparts by a long pointed doorway
in the gorge; and over the lower door, leading from this, on the right, a
passage leads to a spiral stair in the wall, which evidently gave access to the
battlements of the tower. This tower has been rent asunder by a central
explosion, but the outer part has only shifted a little.
The Hall stands upon a vaulted chamber, now filled up with rubbish. It
occupies the space between the north and south towers, which it connects,
its outer wall forming the curtain between them. It is rectangular, 30 feet 8
inches by 17 feet 8 inches, vaulted, with a pointed arch, and having its outer
wall 7 feet, and its inner wall 6 feet, thick. In the former are three loops,
splayed towards the interior, and having pointed heads. They are high above
the base of the wall, and command a fine view. The door was near the north
end of the opposite side, and possibly there may have been a fireplace on
the same side with the door. At the south end is a window, which opens into
a sort of gallery in the south tower.
Above the vaulted roof was, probably, a platform, with a low battlement
towards the court, and a high one towards the exterior of the castle. This
platform communicated with the north and south towers directly, and with
the court by a narrow stair, already noticed as leading to the upper chamber
of the north tower. The hall is now much mutilated, the vault and part of the
east wall being destroyed.
The great curtain is a large irregular segment of a circle, about 80 feet
exterior face, and with a chord of about 60 feet. It originally was a wall 3
feet thick, which appears to have been found of insufficient breadth for the
Page 436
use of military engines on the north and north-east battlements, upon these,
the weakest sides of the fortress; wherefore a parallel wall was built within
and against it, 6 feet thick, extending the whole way from the north to the
east tower. The old wall contains seven loops at the courtyard level, and to
preserve these an arch, 6 feet diameter, is turned in the new work, opposite
to each. Above, there is, of course, a rampart walk of ample width, entered
from the tower at either end. The exterior of this wall, below the level of the
court, is strengthened by a stone facing, forming the scarp of its moat. This
curtain remains tolerably perfect. There is a breach near its junction with
the north tower, and the new and inner wall is wanting opposite to the four
loops, though traces of it are discernible in the mortar upon the old wall.
The Gatehouse Curtain is much less perfect. It appears to have been
slightly convex in plan towards the exterior, and about 28 feet in length
between the south and east towers, from both of which its ramparts were, no
doubt, entered. It is about 5 feet thick. One loop remains, about 6 feet above
the courtyard level, which could only have been used by means of a
platform, perhaps of timber. Twenty-one feet from its junction with the east
tower, a small half-round tower seems to have projected from the curtain,
serving, no doubt, to defend the gateway, which seems to have lain between
this and the south tower, and probably consisted in a simple archway and
passage, with a portcullis and doors. That the entrance was here, and
between these towers, is certain from the causeway leading to it, but the
gate-tower, and most of the curtain, are utterly gone.
Thus much of the castle. We next reach the Outworks.
The south and north tower, and the hall curtain, needed no exterior
defence. They rise from a very steep bank, and their foundations are of
scarped rock and solid masonry. They are quite unassailable from below.
The other two sides are more exposed. In front of the south tower is the
commencement of the moat, broken by a causeway opposite to the inner
gateway, and leading from it to the outer court. Beyond the causeway the
moat deepens, and is carried round the east tower and great curtain, steep
and deep, and hewn in the rock, so as to render this, the naturally weaker
side, very strong. The moat, which must always have been dry, ends,
opposite to the north tower, in a curious excavation, resembling a water-
tank, which, however, it could scarcely have been.
the weakest sides of the fortress; wherefore a parallel wall was built within
and against it, 6 feet thick, extending the whole way from the north to the
east tower. The old wall contains seven loops at the courtyard level, and to
preserve these an arch, 6 feet diameter, is turned in the new work, opposite
to each. Above, there is, of course, a rampart walk of ample width, entered
from the tower at either end. The exterior of this wall, below the level of the
court, is strengthened by a stone facing, forming the scarp of its moat. This
curtain remains tolerably perfect. There is a breach near its junction with
the north tower, and the new and inner wall is wanting opposite to the four
loops, though traces of it are discernible in the mortar upon the old wall.
The Gatehouse Curtain is much less perfect. It appears to have been
slightly convex in plan towards the exterior, and about 28 feet in length
between the south and east towers, from both of which its ramparts were, no
doubt, entered. It is about 5 feet thick. One loop remains, about 6 feet above
the courtyard level, which could only have been used by means of a
platform, perhaps of timber. Twenty-one feet from its junction with the east
tower, a small half-round tower seems to have projected from the curtain,
serving, no doubt, to defend the gateway, which seems to have lain between
this and the south tower, and probably consisted in a simple archway and
passage, with a portcullis and doors. That the entrance was here, and
between these towers, is certain from the causeway leading to it, but the
gate-tower, and most of the curtain, are utterly gone.
Thus much of the castle. We next reach the Outworks.
The south and north tower, and the hall curtain, needed no exterior
defence. They rise from a very steep bank, and their foundations are of
scarped rock and solid masonry. They are quite unassailable from below.
The other two sides are more exposed. In front of the south tower is the
commencement of the moat, broken by a causeway opposite to the inner
gateway, and leading from it to the outer court. Beyond the causeway the
moat deepens, and is carried round the east tower and great curtain, steep
and deep, and hewn in the rock, so as to render this, the naturally weaker
side, very strong. The moat, which must always have been dry, ends,
opposite to the north tower, in a curious excavation, resembling a water-
tank, which, however, it could scarcely have been.
Page 437
The outer court of the castle occupies the remainder or east end of the
natural platform. Its dimensions are about 100 feet long by 40 feet wide. Its
southern side, a continuation of the line of the same face of the castle, was
defended by a precipice, partly natural, partly scarped by art, though now
broken down and filled up. There are no traces of a wall on this side, but
probably there was a parapet.
The opposite, north, or landward, side, is defended by a branch from the
moat, which, after being interrupted and traversed by a causeway, sweeps
round the east end of the works, and terminates in a deep and broad
excavation, which is carried to the brink of the cliff, and thus defends also
the east end of this outer court.
The west end of the platform, or that towards the castle, is cut off from
that building by its proper moat, traversed, as already mentioned, by the
causeway leading to the inner gateway. There is no evidence of any walled
defence to this court, and yet, without such, the moat on the land side would
scarcely have been sufficient to delay an enemy, so as to expose him to the
fire from the east tower and gateway curtain, upon which the defence of this
side depended.
As the principal object was to command the regular approach from the
eastward, the defences were prolonged in this direction. Outside, and on the
counterscarp of the moat of the outer court, and 6 feet from the edge of the
south precipice, there are traces of a tower, about 30 feet diameter, with
what may have been a sort of buttress on its southern side, extending to the
precipice. Opposite, on its northern side, and at its junction with a lower
curtain, is what appears to have been a well-stair, or the foundation of a
distinct turret. There is no moat to the east of the tower, but the ground falls
in a natural scarp.
This Lower Curtain, indicated, like the towers, by a mound of earth only,
sweeps round, so as to cover the counterscarp of the outer moat, and ends in
the roadway tower, about 40 feet diameter, the foundations of which are
very distinct, and which must have completely commanded the approach, at
a point much in advance of, and below, the outer causeway and the eastern
tower. The regular approach, it is clear, lay from the east, and between the
precipitous height crowned by the old Cymric camp and the level platform
of the castle, and, approaching it by the side least strongly defended by
natural platform. Its dimensions are about 100 feet long by 40 feet wide. Its
southern side, a continuation of the line of the same face of the castle, was
defended by a precipice, partly natural, partly scarped by art, though now
broken down and filled up. There are no traces of a wall on this side, but
probably there was a parapet.
The opposite, north, or landward, side, is defended by a branch from the
moat, which, after being interrupted and traversed by a causeway, sweeps
round the east end of the works, and terminates in a deep and broad
excavation, which is carried to the brink of the cliff, and thus defends also
the east end of this outer court.
The west end of the platform, or that towards the castle, is cut off from
that building by its proper moat, traversed, as already mentioned, by the
causeway leading to the inner gateway. There is no evidence of any walled
defence to this court, and yet, without such, the moat on the land side would
scarcely have been sufficient to delay an enemy, so as to expose him to the
fire from the east tower and gateway curtain, upon which the defence of this
side depended.
As the principal object was to command the regular approach from the
eastward, the defences were prolonged in this direction. Outside, and on the
counterscarp of the moat of the outer court, and 6 feet from the edge of the
south precipice, there are traces of a tower, about 30 feet diameter, with
what may have been a sort of buttress on its southern side, extending to the
precipice. Opposite, on its northern side, and at its junction with a lower
curtain, is what appears to have been a well-stair, or the foundation of a
distinct turret. There is no moat to the east of the tower, but the ground falls
in a natural scarp.
This Lower Curtain, indicated, like the towers, by a mound of earth only,
sweeps round, so as to cover the counterscarp of the outer moat, and ends in
the roadway tower, about 40 feet diameter, the foundations of which are
very distinct, and which must have completely commanded the approach, at
a point much in advance of, and below, the outer causeway and the eastern
tower. The regular approach, it is clear, lay from the east, and between the
precipitous height crowned by the old Cymric camp and the level platform
of the castle, and, approaching it by the side least strongly defended by
Page 438
nature, would, at 150 yards from the body of the place, be flanked by the
fire of the lower tower, then of the lower curtain, and then of the roadway
tower. Supposing these silenced, and the outer causeway reached, the
besieger came directly below the east tower, and a part of its adjacent
curtains; and as he crossed the outer court, and reached the second
causeway, he would be opposed by a fire from the east and south towers,
their curtain, and the gateway tower.
Even if the place were surprised and entered, each of the three towers,
and the platform of the hall, admitted of being defended for a few hours,
until aid had been signalled for, and sent from Cardiff. No doubt, before
brave men, all defences fail; and the Welsh, who certainly were not wanting
in courage, did, according to tradition, more than once take this castle,
probably by surprise and escalade; nevertheless, it was a very strong
fortress, both by nature and art, and must have been a sore thorn in the side
of the mountaineers of Glamorgan.
The present condition of each part of the castle has already been
described. It may be added, generally, that the whole is very thickly grown
over with brushwood and weeds, so much so that it is difficult to make out
the details of the plan of the building. Although no ornaments remain, yet it
is clear from the general plan, and from the doorways, that no part of the
castle is in the Norman style. It is, probably, Early English, and may very
well be of the reign of Henry III., and probably a little earlier than
Caerphilly.
Here and there, especially in the outer court, are some handsome Scotch
firs, and a number of venerable beeches, the peculiar green of whose foliage
marks, from a great distance, the line of the old approach. These, of course,
with the wood clothing the hill side, and the ivy upon the walls and towers,
should be left untouched; but it is much to be wished that the castle itself,
and the works of the Cymric camp above, were cleared of timber and
underwood, and a little care taken to encourage fair greensward in their
stead.
This castle has descended with the rest of the De Clare estates, and is
now the property of the Marquis of Bute.
There are various traditions concerning it, but a great deficiency of
recorded information. Being the key of the upper country, it must have
fire of the lower tower, then of the lower curtain, and then of the roadway
tower. Supposing these silenced, and the outer causeway reached, the
besieger came directly below the east tower, and a part of its adjacent
curtains; and as he crossed the outer court, and reached the second
causeway, he would be opposed by a fire from the east and south towers,
their curtain, and the gateway tower.
Even if the place were surprised and entered, each of the three towers,
and the platform of the hall, admitted of being defended for a few hours,
until aid had been signalled for, and sent from Cardiff. No doubt, before
brave men, all defences fail; and the Welsh, who certainly were not wanting
in courage, did, according to tradition, more than once take this castle,
probably by surprise and escalade; nevertheless, it was a very strong
fortress, both by nature and art, and must have been a sore thorn in the side
of the mountaineers of Glamorgan.
The present condition of each part of the castle has already been
described. It may be added, generally, that the whole is very thickly grown
over with brushwood and weeds, so much so that it is difficult to make out
the details of the plan of the building. Although no ornaments remain, yet it
is clear from the general plan, and from the doorways, that no part of the
castle is in the Norman style. It is, probably, Early English, and may very
well be of the reign of Henry III., and probably a little earlier than
Caerphilly.
Here and there, especially in the outer court, are some handsome Scotch
firs, and a number of venerable beeches, the peculiar green of whose foliage
marks, from a great distance, the line of the old approach. These, of course,
with the wood clothing the hill side, and the ivy upon the walls and towers,
should be left untouched; but it is much to be wished that the castle itself,
and the works of the Cymric camp above, were cleared of timber and
underwood, and a little care taken to encourage fair greensward in their
stead.
This castle has descended with the rest of the De Clare estates, and is
now the property of the Marquis of Bute.
There are various traditions concerning it, but a great deficiency of
recorded information. Being the key of the upper country, it must have
Page 439
witnessed many an inburst of the native Welsh, from the Norman Conquest
to the days of Owen Glendower, who is supposed to have descended by this
pass when he burned the episcopal palace of Llandaff, and ravaged Cardiff.
Since this account was written the castle has been cleared of rubbish, and
completely restored, so as to be again habitable. A well has been discovered
in one of the towers, and cleared out, as has also been a very strong
dungeon. The restoration is very complete indeed, in excellent taste, and in
strict accordance with what has been ascertained of the original structure.
to the days of Owen Glendower, who is supposed to have descended by this
pass when he burned the episcopal palace of Llandaff, and ravaged Cardiff.
Since this account was written the castle has been cleared of rubbish, and
completely restored, so as to be again habitable. A well has been discovered
in one of the towers, and cleared out, as has also been a very strong
dungeon. The restoration is very complete indeed, in excellent taste, and in
strict accordance with what has been ascertained of the original structure.
Page 440
CASTLE RISING, NORFOLK.
CASTLE RISING, probably so called from its position on ground that is
high or rising compared with the low levels of the district, stands about two
miles from the estuary of the Wash upon its eastern or Norfolk shore. Half a
mile north of the village a large tract of low land is traversed by the
Babingley river, and it is evident that before this part of the country was
drained and reclaimed by tillage, the approaches to the village upon at least
three sides, the north, west and east, must have been almost impracticable.
These considerations probably governed those who chose Rising as a
residence. The soil is light and sandy, like that of the Dunes of Holland, but
contains just enough of vegetable mould to support a growth of turf. The
trees are chiefly ash and willow of very large size, and upon the slopes of
the castle are some noble and very ancient thorns. The richness of the
vegetation in and about the village is in favourable contrast with the dreary
and barren heath land by which it is surrounded.
The earthworks are on a large scale, and probably the remains of a great
English residence, the centre of a large estate; circumstances which no
doubt led to the adaptation of this position for the Norman fortress whence
the village has derived the prefix to its more ancient name.
The central and principal division of the fortress is composed of an
irregular oval area about 67 yards east and west by 80 yards north and
south, contained within a broad and lofty bank, which, in its turn, is
surrounded by a very formidable ditch. Outside this ditch, covering the east
face, is a subsidiary work, also within a bank and ditch. It is in form nearly
a parallelogram, but its sides are somewhat irregularly convex, and its
angles rounded. Its north end is about 60 yards and its south 70 yards broad,
and its length of front 90 yards; but the ends are inclined, so that where it
abuts upon the main ditch it is about 80 yards.
This is balanced by a corresponding earthwork on the west point of the
central work. This earthwork is about 100 yards north and south by 30 yards
broad, and is also contained within a bank and ditch. The ditches of these
CASTLE RISING, probably so called from its position on ground that is
high or rising compared with the low levels of the district, stands about two
miles from the estuary of the Wash upon its eastern or Norfolk shore. Half a
mile north of the village a large tract of low land is traversed by the
Babingley river, and it is evident that before this part of the country was
drained and reclaimed by tillage, the approaches to the village upon at least
three sides, the north, west and east, must have been almost impracticable.
These considerations probably governed those who chose Rising as a
residence. The soil is light and sandy, like that of the Dunes of Holland, but
contains just enough of vegetable mould to support a growth of turf. The
trees are chiefly ash and willow of very large size, and upon the slopes of
the castle are some noble and very ancient thorns. The richness of the
vegetation in and about the village is in favourable contrast with the dreary
and barren heath land by which it is surrounded.
The earthworks are on a large scale, and probably the remains of a great
English residence, the centre of a large estate; circumstances which no
doubt led to the adaptation of this position for the Norman fortress whence
the village has derived the prefix to its more ancient name.
The central and principal division of the fortress is composed of an
irregular oval area about 67 yards east and west by 80 yards north and
south, contained within a broad and lofty bank, which, in its turn, is
surrounded by a very formidable ditch. Outside this ditch, covering the east
face, is a subsidiary work, also within a bank and ditch. It is in form nearly
a parallelogram, but its sides are somewhat irregularly convex, and its
angles rounded. Its north end is about 60 yards and its south 70 yards broad,
and its length of front 90 yards; but the ends are inclined, so that where it
abuts upon the main ditch it is about 80 yards.
This is balanced by a corresponding earthwork on the west point of the
central work. This earthwork is about 100 yards north and south by 30 yards
broad, and is also contained within a bank and ditch. The ditches of these
Page 441
earthworks do not actually run into the main ditch. A narrow causeway of
earth is left between them. The whole exterior girth of the ditch is reported
to be 10,803 yards. The central earthwork is about 30 feet high from the
inclosed area, and outside is about 60 feet above the bottom of the ditch. It
is about 15 feet wide at the top, and, being composed of light soil, has a
considerable slope. The banks of the outworks are not so high, being about
20 feet inside and 40 feet outside. Those to the east are, however, higher,
and at the points nearly as high as those of the centre. The westward work is
altogether of a lighter character, though still of great strength. The works
cover about 13 acres. They are wholly artificial.
The main entrance was from the north, along the edge of the counterscarp
of the main ditch, and it thus entered the eastern outwork. Near its centre
the road crossed the ditch by a bridge, and entered the central ward by a
notch in its eastern bank. The western outwork seems to have been entered
from the central ward by steps up and down the bank, connected probably
with a light bridge over the ditch. It may be that it was only used for cattle.
earth is left between them. The whole exterior girth of the ditch is reported
to be 10,803 yards. The central earthwork is about 30 feet high from the
inclosed area, and outside is about 60 feet above the bottom of the ditch. It
is about 15 feet wide at the top, and, being composed of light soil, has a
considerable slope. The banks of the outworks are not so high, being about
20 feet inside and 40 feet outside. Those to the east are, however, higher,
and at the points nearly as high as those of the centre. The westward work is
altogether of a lighter character, though still of great strength. The works
cover about 13 acres. They are wholly artificial.
The main entrance was from the north, along the edge of the counterscarp
of the main ditch, and it thus entered the eastern outwork. Near its centre
the road crossed the ditch by a bridge, and entered the central ward by a
notch in its eastern bank. The western outwork seems to have been entered
from the central ward by steps up and down the bank, connected probably
with a light bridge over the ditch. It may be that it was only used for cattle.
Page 442
CASTLE RISING KEEP.
A. Prison. E. Entrance.
B. Main F. Hall.
entrance. G. Gallery.
C. Well. H. Kitchen.
D. Vestibule.
A. Prison. E. Entrance.
B. Main F. Hall.
entrance. G. Gallery.
C. Well. H. Kitchen.
D. Vestibule.
Page 443
I. Ante-chapel.
K. Chapel.
L. Upper part of
forebuilding.
It has been thought that these earthworks are of somewhat different dates,
and that the central is the oldest. The circle, or irregular oval, with a bank
and ditch, with or without a mound, is a not uncommon form of earthwork
in England, and is probably the work of the English in the seventh and
eighth centuries. That is to say, where the work is on a low site, and the
form not governed, as in British works, by the outline of the ground. These
English enclosures rarely stand alone. Usually there were one or more
appendages outside, and abutting upon the main ditch, as at Laughton and
Kilpeck, probably additions, but not much later than the main work. They
were usually also at no great distance from the parish church. From the
tendency of the outworks at Castle Rising to the rectangular form, they have
been supposed, by good authority, to be Roman, and the Romans had no
doubt a settlement at Brancaster, about fifteen miles to the north. But
Roman works seldom are composed of earthworks of this magnitude, the
Roman custom, where great security was needed, having been to build a
wall. Also, if the outworks only be Roman, the central work must be
British, which is scarcely consistent with what is known of the defences of
that people. Most probably the central is an English work, and the outworks
either of the same date, or early additions by the same people. But, be the
principal origin what it may, it is clear that here, as at Norwich, Clare,
Hedingham, and Castle Acre, the Norman invader, having grasped the estate
of the English lord, proceeded, as in Normandy, to combine the new fashion
of castle-building with the old defences.
K. Chapel.
L. Upper part of
forebuilding.
It has been thought that these earthworks are of somewhat different dates,
and that the central is the oldest. The circle, or irregular oval, with a bank
and ditch, with or without a mound, is a not uncommon form of earthwork
in England, and is probably the work of the English in the seventh and
eighth centuries. That is to say, where the work is on a low site, and the
form not governed, as in British works, by the outline of the ground. These
English enclosures rarely stand alone. Usually there were one or more
appendages outside, and abutting upon the main ditch, as at Laughton and
Kilpeck, probably additions, but not much later than the main work. They
were usually also at no great distance from the parish church. From the
tendency of the outworks at Castle Rising to the rectangular form, they have
been supposed, by good authority, to be Roman, and the Romans had no
doubt a settlement at Brancaster, about fifteen miles to the north. But
Roman works seldom are composed of earthworks of this magnitude, the
Roman custom, where great security was needed, having been to build a
wall. Also, if the outworks only be Roman, the central work must be
British, which is scarcely consistent with what is known of the defences of
that people. Most probably the central is an English work, and the outworks
either of the same date, or early additions by the same people. But, be the
principal origin what it may, it is clear that here, as at Norwich, Clare,
Hedingham, and Castle Acre, the Norman invader, having grasped the estate
of the English lord, proceeded, as in Normandy, to combine the new fashion
of castle-building with the old defences.
Page 444
UPPER FLOOR
The keep, the chapel, and the gatehouse, the only parts in early masonry
of which anything now remains, were probably among the works earliest
executed. The Keep is a very noble example of the rectangular Norman
type. Not that its area, still less its height, would place it in the first rank,
but to considerable dimensions it adds a degree of ornament rarely
bestowed upon military buildings, and though a ruin, its parts are unusually
well preserved, and excellent both in materials and workmanship. Like
Hedingham, it stands within, but not in the centre of, the inner ward. It
almost touches the slope of the western bank, and is about thirty yards from
the gatehouse and the eastern bank. Between the north and south banks it is
nearly midway. It is in plan rectangular, measuring at the base 75 feet east
and west, by 64 feet north and south, and, to the rampart walk, 50 feet high.
Each face is flanked by two pilasters, 7 feet broad by 6 inches projection.
These meet at, but do not cover, the angle, and the nook so formed is
occupied by a shaft, not quite detached, and similar shafts take the place of
The keep, the chapel, and the gatehouse, the only parts in early masonry
of which anything now remains, were probably among the works earliest
executed. The Keep is a very noble example of the rectangular Norman
type. Not that its area, still less its height, would place it in the first rank,
but to considerable dimensions it adds a degree of ornament rarely
bestowed upon military buildings, and though a ruin, its parts are unusually
well preserved, and excellent both in materials and workmanship. Like
Hedingham, it stands within, but not in the centre of, the inner ward. It
almost touches the slope of the western bank, and is about thirty yards from
the gatehouse and the eastern bank. Between the north and south banks it is
nearly midway. It is in plan rectangular, measuring at the base 75 feet east
and west, by 64 feet north and south, and, to the rampart walk, 50 feet high.
Each face is flanked by two pilasters, 7 feet broad by 6 inches projection.
These meet at, but do not cover, the angle, and the nook so formed is
occupied by a shaft, not quite detached, and similar shafts take the place of
Page 445
the other angles of each flanking pilaster. Intermediate, on the north and
south faces, are three pilasters of 3 feet breadth, and there is one on the east
face, all dying into the parapets. The west face is of a complex character.
Upon it are two large recesses, 9 feet broad and 2 feet deep, of which one is
arched over the near parapet level. There are, besides, four recesses, each of
4 feet opening, by 2 feet 6 inches deep, arched over a little below the first-
floor level. All these five recesses have their soffits pierced by the vents of
garderobes. The wall has only one slight set-off near its summit. The
flanking pilasters have none, the others mostly two, but very high up. There
was a square turret at each angle, now nearly gone. At the base of these
turrets, the nook-shafts ceased, and the turret angle was solid. The parapet is
gone. Considerably below its base were round holes, apparently to take off
the water. The walls at the base are, the north and east sides, 7 feet, the
south 6 feet 6 inches, and the west 6 feet thick, and this thickness is
preserved to the top, or very nearly so. The east face is covered by the
forebuilding, here very perfect. This prolongs the north front by 20 feet, and
the south by 9 feet. The keep has a basement at the ground level, and a first
floor. At two points, however, the upper floor is subdivided so as to give a
partial second floor. Part of the forebuilding also, as at Rochester, has a
second floor. The entrance is in the south end of the building, in which a
straight stair rises to the main door of the keep, which is at the first-floor
level. There are well-staircases, 7 feet diameter, in the north-east and south-
west angles of the keep, ascending by seventy-six steps from the base to the
summit, and communicating with the first floor. It is, however, to be
observed that the base of the well-stair is about 4 feet above the ground-
level, so that it is entered by a stair of five steps, projecting into the rooms.
This seems to have been the case at Dover, before the floor was raised. It is
difficult to discover the reason for it.
The keep is divided into a north and south chamber by a cross-wall, 6
feet thick, which ascends to the roof. The two chambers are 58 feet long;
the north 25 feet, and the south 16 feet broad. The north chamber was again
divided, equally, longways, by an arcade of four lofty arches, of 11 feet
span, springing from corbels in the wall, and from three square piers, 3 feet
broad by 4 feet. The spandrel walls of this arcade supported the joists of the
floor above. The three eastern arches and their two piers are gone. The
western pier gives off two lateral arches north and south, dividing the end
bay into two square spaces, which are vaulted and groined and carry upper
south faces, are three pilasters of 3 feet breadth, and there is one on the east
face, all dying into the parapets. The west face is of a complex character.
Upon it are two large recesses, 9 feet broad and 2 feet deep, of which one is
arched over the near parapet level. There are, besides, four recesses, each of
4 feet opening, by 2 feet 6 inches deep, arched over a little below the first-
floor level. All these five recesses have their soffits pierced by the vents of
garderobes. The wall has only one slight set-off near its summit. The
flanking pilasters have none, the others mostly two, but very high up. There
was a square turret at each angle, now nearly gone. At the base of these
turrets, the nook-shafts ceased, and the turret angle was solid. The parapet is
gone. Considerably below its base were round holes, apparently to take off
the water. The walls at the base are, the north and east sides, 7 feet, the
south 6 feet 6 inches, and the west 6 feet thick, and this thickness is
preserved to the top, or very nearly so. The east face is covered by the
forebuilding, here very perfect. This prolongs the north front by 20 feet, and
the south by 9 feet. The keep has a basement at the ground level, and a first
floor. At two points, however, the upper floor is subdivided so as to give a
partial second floor. Part of the forebuilding also, as at Rochester, has a
second floor. The entrance is in the south end of the building, in which a
straight stair rises to the main door of the keep, which is at the first-floor
level. There are well-staircases, 7 feet diameter, in the north-east and south-
west angles of the keep, ascending by seventy-six steps from the base to the
summit, and communicating with the first floor. It is, however, to be
observed that the base of the well-stair is about 4 feet above the ground-
level, so that it is entered by a stair of five steps, projecting into the rooms.
This seems to have been the case at Dover, before the floor was raised. It is
difficult to discover the reason for it.
The keep is divided into a north and south chamber by a cross-wall, 6
feet thick, which ascends to the roof. The two chambers are 58 feet long;
the north 25 feet, and the south 16 feet broad. The north chamber was again
divided, equally, longways, by an arcade of four lofty arches, of 11 feet
span, springing from corbels in the wall, and from three square piers, 3 feet
broad by 4 feet. The spandrel walls of this arcade supported the joists of the
floor above. The three eastern arches and their two piers are gone. The
western pier gives off two lateral arches north and south, dividing the end
bay into two square spaces, which are vaulted and groined and carry upper
Page 446
chambers, shortening by so much the upper great room or hall. This lower
room is aired rather than lighted by three loops in the north and two in the
west wall, placed high up and in splayed recesses, round-headed. There is
also in the north wall a small lobby at the foot of the well-stair, from which
there seems to have been a passage rising 3 feet into a mural chamber 8 feet
above the ground. In the west end of the great chamber an interior door at
the ground-level has been broken. It has a pointed head, and is an insertion.
Probably it represents a loop. A round-headed doorway of 4 feet aperture
opens in a segmental recess in the cross-wall into the south chamber. The
door opened towards the north, and was barred on that side. The recess is
groined. The well is in the floor of the north chamber, between two of the
piers, under the second arch from the east. It is 4 feet diameter, with a pipe
of ashlar rising about 3 feet above the ground-level.
The south chamber was crossed by three plain broad arches, springing
from corbels high up in the wall, and carrying the joists of the floor above.
The eastern bay, however, is vaulted and groined, and supports the chapel.
The other two arches are broken away. This chamber has four loops to the
south and one to the west. Its well-stair also has a small lobby in the wall, 5
feet above the floor. In the east end of the south wall is a door ascending
four steps, which opens into the staircase of the forebuilding. Although this
door, in its present state, appears not to be original, it may be really so.
There is one in a somewhat similar position at Dover.
The first floor is also divided into two main chambers by the cross-wall,
and each is shortened by the rooms cut off, from one at the east, and from
the other at the west, end. The great chambers are, the north, 47 feet by 23
feet, and the south, 42 feet by 15 feet. The north room was the hall. It was
entered from the vestibule of the forebuilding by a handsome main door, of
6 feet opening, near the north end of the east wall. Close to it, in the same
wall, is a second round-headed door, which descends by ten steps upon the
staircase of the forebuilding. This door is evidently an insertion in the place
of a loop. A third and small door, segmental, opens into a narrow mural
passage leading over the middle gate of the fore-building, and by a branch
into the chapel. In the cross-wall, a door opens into the south chamber, and
near it is a deep round-headed recess, 5 feet from the floor, perhaps a
cupboard, and again a recess, 8 feet broad and 5 feet deep, at the floor-level,
possibly for a brazier of charcoal, but without a flue. Near the east end of
room is aired rather than lighted by three loops in the north and two in the
west wall, placed high up and in splayed recesses, round-headed. There is
also in the north wall a small lobby at the foot of the well-stair, from which
there seems to have been a passage rising 3 feet into a mural chamber 8 feet
above the ground. In the west end of the great chamber an interior door at
the ground-level has been broken. It has a pointed head, and is an insertion.
Probably it represents a loop. A round-headed doorway of 4 feet aperture
opens in a segmental recess in the cross-wall into the south chamber. The
door opened towards the north, and was barred on that side. The recess is
groined. The well is in the floor of the north chamber, between two of the
piers, under the second arch from the east. It is 4 feet diameter, with a pipe
of ashlar rising about 3 feet above the ground-level.
The south chamber was crossed by three plain broad arches, springing
from corbels high up in the wall, and carrying the joists of the floor above.
The eastern bay, however, is vaulted and groined, and supports the chapel.
The other two arches are broken away. This chamber has four loops to the
south and one to the west. Its well-stair also has a small lobby in the wall, 5
feet above the floor. In the east end of the south wall is a door ascending
four steps, which opens into the staircase of the forebuilding. Although this
door, in its present state, appears not to be original, it may be really so.
There is one in a somewhat similar position at Dover.
The first floor is also divided into two main chambers by the cross-wall,
and each is shortened by the rooms cut off, from one at the east, and from
the other at the west, end. The great chambers are, the north, 47 feet by 23
feet, and the south, 42 feet by 15 feet. The north room was the hall. It was
entered from the vestibule of the forebuilding by a handsome main door, of
6 feet opening, near the north end of the east wall. Close to it, in the same
wall, is a second round-headed door, which descends by ten steps upon the
staircase of the forebuilding. This door is evidently an insertion in the place
of a loop. A third and small door, segmental, opens into a narrow mural
passage leading over the middle gate of the fore-building, and by a branch
into the chapel. In the cross-wall, a door opens into the south chamber, and
near it is a deep round-headed recess, 5 feet from the floor, perhaps a
cupboard, and again a recess, 8 feet broad and 5 feet deep, at the floor-level,
possibly for a brazier of charcoal, but without a flue. Near the east end of
Page 447
this same wall is a small window, a Decorated insertion, and near it a
segmental door, both opening into the ante-chapel. The north wall is pierced
by a gallery, 3 feet 6 inches broad, of five bays, between each of which is a
plain arch, reducing the way to 2 feet 9 inches. Two of these bays have
coupled exterior windows, one pair square-headed, the other round-headed
and trefoiled, and on each cusp a disc, as in the recess at Coningsburgh,
producing a heavy effect. The fifth bay has a loop. Four of these bays open
by large arches, at the floor-level, into the great chamber, of which this
gallery thus formed a part. The eastern bay communicates with the well-
stair. It is groined, and its side towards the chamber seems to have been
partially closed, and there are three small shafts which seem to have opened
into the mural chamber below. They cannot be for garderobes, and their use
is obscure. This bay has a very handsome window, of two lights, coupled,
and the shaft common to the two is worked in a rather remarkable fret or
knot. These windows had shutters. There is no trace of glass. The gallery,
which is 62 feet long, has a loop at its west end, and a rude opening,
probably once a window, of three small lights, near that end in the north
wall. The north-west aisle is occupied by a cylindrical shaft, 5 feet 6 inches
diameter, which commences with the floor-level, and is open like a
fireplace. At the roof-level it is gathered in with brick, and ascends as a
chimney-shaft. In its sides are four loops, in two tiers, besides six small
round-headed niches higher up, probably for the escape of smoke and
steam. At this end the gallery opens into a lofty vaulted chamber, in the east
wall of which an opening has been broken into the hall, and in the south
wall is a curious low segmental recess, of 10 feet span and 3 feet rise, partly
walled up, and in the upfilling some small niches. The great height of this
chamber, the vaulted roof, the shaft and steam-holes at one corner, the
niches round it, and its position next to the hall, point it out as the kitchen.
In the west end of the hall a door leads into a room corresponding with
the kitchen, to the south of it. This is 8 feet by 12 feet, and has three niches
in its west and two in its east wall. In its north and south walls are arches of
relief, like that of the flat recess in the kitchen. The reason for these three
arches, turned in three parallel walls, is not apparent. Two of these might
serve to direct the weight of the wall above from the vault below upon the
piers, but the third is in the cross-wall, which is solid. The south room had a
timber roof, and was probably a sort of still-room, for light cooking or
pastry. Between these two rooms a door from the hall opens into an ∟-
segmental door, both opening into the ante-chapel. The north wall is pierced
by a gallery, 3 feet 6 inches broad, of five bays, between each of which is a
plain arch, reducing the way to 2 feet 9 inches. Two of these bays have
coupled exterior windows, one pair square-headed, the other round-headed
and trefoiled, and on each cusp a disc, as in the recess at Coningsburgh,
producing a heavy effect. The fifth bay has a loop. Four of these bays open
by large arches, at the floor-level, into the great chamber, of which this
gallery thus formed a part. The eastern bay communicates with the well-
stair. It is groined, and its side towards the chamber seems to have been
partially closed, and there are three small shafts which seem to have opened
into the mural chamber below. They cannot be for garderobes, and their use
is obscure. This bay has a very handsome window, of two lights, coupled,
and the shaft common to the two is worked in a rather remarkable fret or
knot. These windows had shutters. There is no trace of glass. The gallery,
which is 62 feet long, has a loop at its west end, and a rude opening,
probably once a window, of three small lights, near that end in the north
wall. The north-west aisle is occupied by a cylindrical shaft, 5 feet 6 inches
diameter, which commences with the floor-level, and is open like a
fireplace. At the roof-level it is gathered in with brick, and ascends as a
chimney-shaft. In its sides are four loops, in two tiers, besides six small
round-headed niches higher up, probably for the escape of smoke and
steam. At this end the gallery opens into a lofty vaulted chamber, in the east
wall of which an opening has been broken into the hall, and in the south
wall is a curious low segmental recess, of 10 feet span and 3 feet rise, partly
walled up, and in the upfilling some small niches. The great height of this
chamber, the vaulted roof, the shaft and steam-holes at one corner, the
niches round it, and its position next to the hall, point it out as the kitchen.
In the west end of the hall a door leads into a room corresponding with
the kitchen, to the south of it. This is 8 feet by 12 feet, and has three niches
in its west and two in its east wall. In its north and south walls are arches of
relief, like that of the flat recess in the kitchen. The reason for these three
arches, turned in three parallel walls, is not apparent. Two of these might
serve to direct the weight of the wall above from the vault below upon the
piers, but the third is in the cross-wall, which is solid. The south room had a
timber roof, and was probably a sort of still-room, for light cooking or
pastry. Between these two rooms a door from the hall opens into an ∟-
Page 448
shaped vaulted passage, ending in a mural vault, 10 feet by 5 feet, in the
west wall of which are two loops and two double garderobes.
The roof of the hall was of timber, resting on six pairs of principals, of
which the corbels that carried the hammer-beams remain. Some are carved
as male or female heads, and one represents an animal. The pitch of the
gable is marked upon the east wall, across which, at the level of the corbels,
is a bold band of chevron work, and upon this rests a window of 2 feet 6
inches opening, which gave light from an upper mural gallery into the roof.
In this gable a second opening, 7 feet wide, has been made into the same
gallery. This larger window cuts the chevron band, descending somewhat
below it. It was evidently an insertion to give more light to the hall, and is
opened on one side instead of in the place of the small window, in order that
it may be clear of the forebuilding.
The south chamber was entered from the hall by a doorway 5 feet broad,
placed in a large recess 5 feet deep. In the south wall are two round-headed
windows, trefoiled, with discs on the cusps, and between them a fireplace
and chimney-shaft have been inserted, probably during the Tudor period.
There is also a sort of cupboard in this wall, and a door opening into a lobby
7 feet by 3 feet 4 inches, which opens upon the south-west well-stair. In the
east wall is a small door, a Decorated insertion, opening into the chapel. In
the north wall, besides the door from the hall, are a cupboard and a small
segmental door, opening into a mural garderobe in the west wall. In the
west end are two small doors opening into mural chambers, each containing
a garderobe lighted by a loop. It will thus be seen that all the garderobes are
upon the west front, and there seem to have been others in the battlements
above them. The south chamber had a lofty open roof like that of the hall,
but high up in its west gable a window has been opened as though to suit an
added interior gallery or balcony at the level of the room above the chapel
at the opposite end. This window, however, is the only indication of such an
insertion, nor are there any other windows or any traces of floor-joists, only
below the window are some joist-holes. This window is of two lights,
lancet-shaped and trefoiled. In the central spandrel is a peculiar ornament
composed of four loops, which outside are replaced by a small circle. This
window stands in a full-centred recess which may be original, but the
window itself is an insertion.
west wall of which are two loops and two double garderobes.
The roof of the hall was of timber, resting on six pairs of principals, of
which the corbels that carried the hammer-beams remain. Some are carved
as male or female heads, and one represents an animal. The pitch of the
gable is marked upon the east wall, across which, at the level of the corbels,
is a bold band of chevron work, and upon this rests a window of 2 feet 6
inches opening, which gave light from an upper mural gallery into the roof.
In this gable a second opening, 7 feet wide, has been made into the same
gallery. This larger window cuts the chevron band, descending somewhat
below it. It was evidently an insertion to give more light to the hall, and is
opened on one side instead of in the place of the small window, in order that
it may be clear of the forebuilding.
The south chamber was entered from the hall by a doorway 5 feet broad,
placed in a large recess 5 feet deep. In the south wall are two round-headed
windows, trefoiled, with discs on the cusps, and between them a fireplace
and chimney-shaft have been inserted, probably during the Tudor period.
There is also a sort of cupboard in this wall, and a door opening into a lobby
7 feet by 3 feet 4 inches, which opens upon the south-west well-stair. In the
east wall is a small door, a Decorated insertion, opening into the chapel. In
the north wall, besides the door from the hall, are a cupboard and a small
segmental door, opening into a mural garderobe in the west wall. In the
west end are two small doors opening into mural chambers, each containing
a garderobe lighted by a loop. It will thus be seen that all the garderobes are
upon the west front, and there seem to have been others in the battlements
above them. The south chamber had a lofty open roof like that of the hall,
but high up in its west gable a window has been opened as though to suit an
added interior gallery or balcony at the level of the room above the chapel
at the opposite end. This window, however, is the only indication of such an
insertion, nor are there any other windows or any traces of floor-joists, only
below the window are some joist-holes. This window is of two lights,
lancet-shaped and trefoiled. In the central spandrel is a peculiar ornament
composed of four loops, which outside are replaced by a small circle. This
window stands in a full-centred recess which may be original, but the
window itself is an insertion.
Page 449
Walled off at the east end of the chamber is the ante-chapel, 9 feet by 13
feet, and vaulted. It is placed partly in the cross-wall and partly in the south
chamber. It has a door and window into the hall, of which the latter seems
an insertion. Also are seen a door and two loops, of hour-glass section, in
the opposite or south wall opening into the chapel. In the east wall is a door,
whence a narrow passage leads upon the roof of the forebuilding over the
middle gate.
The chapel, which could be entered from the hall either through the ante-
chapel or round it by a mural passage, has but one original door, which is in
its north wall. A second door has been opened, in the early English period,
in the west wall. The chapel is 13 feet east and west by 14 feet, and has a
flat timber ceiling. The southern side has a deep recess, let into the wall of
the keep, and in it are the remains of a triple window, probably formed of
three loops. In the two jambs of this arch are side recesses. High up in the
north wall are the two hour-glass loops from the ante-chapel. The chapel
has been much injured; but there are remains of a handsome arcade with
detached shafts upon the lower half of the west and north walls, and in the
south is what seems to have been a coupled window. In the east wall is a
handsome arch of 7 feet 6 inches span, with shafts in front of the piers with
carved caps. This opens into a sort of chancel, 5 feet deep by 9 feet wide,
with nook-shafts. It is vaulted, groined, and ribbed. There is no boss, but
about the intersection of the ribs is some rude carving, from which a lamp
seems to have been suspended. There is a window to the east, now broken
down, but which was probably composed of three coupled lights, and in the
south wall is a recess with a loop. An attempt has been made, apparently in
the Tudor period, to insert a fireplace in the north wall.
From the first floor the south-west well-stair leads to the roof only; but
the north-east stair, in its way to the roof, has two side openings, of which
the first, 2 feet 4 inches wide, leads by a narrow passage up fourteen steps
towards the ramparts of the vestibule tower. This is now blocked by the
inserted vault, with which that building is covered in. Eight steps above this
lower opening a second leads into a gallery in the east wall. Above this
opening, seventeen more steps lead to the ramparts of the keep, which are
22 feet above the level of the first floor. The eastern gallery is vaulted, and
32 feet long. From one side of it a door enters the second floor of the
forebuilding tower, and beyond it, also in the east or outer side, is a loop. In
feet, and vaulted. It is placed partly in the cross-wall and partly in the south
chamber. It has a door and window into the hall, of which the latter seems
an insertion. Also are seen a door and two loops, of hour-glass section, in
the opposite or south wall opening into the chapel. In the east wall is a door,
whence a narrow passage leads upon the roof of the forebuilding over the
middle gate.
The chapel, which could be entered from the hall either through the ante-
chapel or round it by a mural passage, has but one original door, which is in
its north wall. A second door has been opened, in the early English period,
in the west wall. The chapel is 13 feet east and west by 14 feet, and has a
flat timber ceiling. The southern side has a deep recess, let into the wall of
the keep, and in it are the remains of a triple window, probably formed of
three loops. In the two jambs of this arch are side recesses. High up in the
north wall are the two hour-glass loops from the ante-chapel. The chapel
has been much injured; but there are remains of a handsome arcade with
detached shafts upon the lower half of the west and north walls, and in the
south is what seems to have been a coupled window. In the east wall is a
handsome arch of 7 feet 6 inches span, with shafts in front of the piers with
carved caps. This opens into a sort of chancel, 5 feet deep by 9 feet wide,
with nook-shafts. It is vaulted, groined, and ribbed. There is no boss, but
about the intersection of the ribs is some rude carving, from which a lamp
seems to have been suspended. There is a window to the east, now broken
down, but which was probably composed of three coupled lights, and in the
south wall is a recess with a loop. An attempt has been made, apparently in
the Tudor period, to insert a fireplace in the north wall.
From the first floor the south-west well-stair leads to the roof only; but
the north-east stair, in its way to the roof, has two side openings, of which
the first, 2 feet 4 inches wide, leads by a narrow passage up fourteen steps
towards the ramparts of the vestibule tower. This is now blocked by the
inserted vault, with which that building is covered in. Eight steps above this
lower opening a second leads into a gallery in the east wall. Above this
opening, seventeen more steps lead to the ramparts of the keep, which are
22 feet above the level of the first floor. The eastern gallery is vaulted, and
32 feet long. From one side of it a door enters the second floor of the
forebuilding tower, and beyond it, also in the east or outer side, is a loop. In
Page 450
the west side are two openings, already described, which open into the
gable end of the hall roof. At its south end this gallery makes a turn at right
angles, and ends in a small bedchamber, 18 feet by 14 feet, which is over
the chapel, and has a window to the south. As the parapets are gone, and the
ramparts not accessible, the roof above the kitchen cannot be examined; but
there does not appear to have been any second floor in that quarter.
The forebuilding is a very perfect and a very good example of this
peculiar appendage to a Norman keep. It is composed of three parts,—a
lower staircase, an upper staircase, and a vestibule tower. At its south end is
the outer gateway, at the ground-level, in line with the southern face of the
keep. The portal is full-centred, and flanked by two columns beneath a plain
abacus, from which springs the arch with a bold roll-moulding. There is no
portcullis. The door opened inwards, and was strongly barred. The wall is 6
feet thick, and the vaulted passage through it, inside the doorway, is
segmental and groined. Within, the passage is 8 feet wide, and contains the
lower staircase of fifteen steps. In the inner face of the wall, over the
doorway, is a large, deep recess, probably to lighten the weight on the
entrance arch. On the right or outer wall, high up, is a loop, and on the left,
at the fourth step, a large door, already mentioned, opens into the southern
chamber. It seems to be of late Decorated date, and probably represents an
original loop, or it may be a doorway. At the head of this first staircase is
the middle or second doorway, of 5 feet opening, also full-centred, with
flanking columns. The head, also, has a bold roll-moulding. The wall in
which it is placed is 4 feet thick, and the landing 5 feet deep. The portal is
recessed, and in the soffit in front of it is an opening, 2 feet broad by 6
inches deep, a shaft or meurtrière from the top of the wall, where is a walk.
This seems to have had high parapets, and a loop looking down the
staircase. The opening was for the defence of the portal. This door also was
barred. Within it rises the second staircase, in the same line, of nineteen
steps, 8 feet wide, and ascending to the upper and inner doorway, the door
of the vestibule. On the right is a second loop, on the left a clumsy doorway
ascending to the hall, already mentioned, and evidently an insertion. The
staircase is solid, containing no vault or chamber below. It was roofed with
timber, at two levels, of a low pitch, divided by the wall of the middle gate,
and leaning against the keep wall.
gable end of the hall roof. At its south end this gallery makes a turn at right
angles, and ends in a small bedchamber, 18 feet by 14 feet, which is over
the chapel, and has a window to the south. As the parapets are gone, and the
ramparts not accessible, the roof above the kitchen cannot be examined; but
there does not appear to have been any second floor in that quarter.
The forebuilding is a very perfect and a very good example of this
peculiar appendage to a Norman keep. It is composed of three parts,—a
lower staircase, an upper staircase, and a vestibule tower. At its south end is
the outer gateway, at the ground-level, in line with the southern face of the
keep. The portal is full-centred, and flanked by two columns beneath a plain
abacus, from which springs the arch with a bold roll-moulding. There is no
portcullis. The door opened inwards, and was strongly barred. The wall is 6
feet thick, and the vaulted passage through it, inside the doorway, is
segmental and groined. Within, the passage is 8 feet wide, and contains the
lower staircase of fifteen steps. In the inner face of the wall, over the
doorway, is a large, deep recess, probably to lighten the weight on the
entrance arch. On the right or outer wall, high up, is a loop, and on the left,
at the fourth step, a large door, already mentioned, opens into the southern
chamber. It seems to be of late Decorated date, and probably represents an
original loop, or it may be a doorway. At the head of this first staircase is
the middle or second doorway, of 5 feet opening, also full-centred, with
flanking columns. The head, also, has a bold roll-moulding. The wall in
which it is placed is 4 feet thick, and the landing 5 feet deep. The portal is
recessed, and in the soffit in front of it is an opening, 2 feet broad by 6
inches deep, a shaft or meurtrière from the top of the wall, where is a walk.
This seems to have had high parapets, and a loop looking down the
staircase. The opening was for the defence of the portal. This door also was
barred. Within it rises the second staircase, in the same line, of nineteen
steps, 8 feet wide, and ascending to the upper and inner doorway, the door
of the vestibule. On the right is a second loop, on the left a clumsy doorway
ascending to the hall, already mentioned, and evidently an insertion. The
staircase is solid, containing no vault or chamber below. It was roofed with
timber, at two levels, of a low pitch, divided by the wall of the middle gate,
and leaning against the keep wall.
Page 451
The doorway at the stairhead much resembles those below. It is set in a
deep recess, has flanking shafts, and a roll-moulding round the head. There
is no portcullis. The doorway opens into a chamber 14 feet by 15 feet,
which is the vestibule to the main entrance of the keep, and at the level of
its first floor. It has two windows to the north, two to the east, and to the
south the staircase door and a window, which rakes the exterior of the outer
wall of the staircase. These windows seem to have been of 12-inch opening,
but have been enlarged. They are placed in deep recesses, as in an arcade. In
the west wall is the great entrance—a noble archway—deeply recessed, and
flanked with four shafts on either side. The exterior arch is 10 feet span, the
doorway itself 6 feet. The plinths are unusually high, being 3 feet. The caps
are fluted and cushioned. The outer arch is full-centred, the actual doorway
segmental. The arch bands are worked in chevron and other mouldings.
Close north of the great entrance a plain narrow door opens into the
adjacent well-stair, but this is clearly an enlarged loop, which was intended
to light the staircase. The original covering of this room, like its present
floor, was of timber, but this has been replaced by an ill-executed vault of
the early Decorated period. It is arranged in two bays, the dividing rib
springing from pilasters let into the north and south walls. Each bay is
crossed diagonally by two ribs, springing from corbels of half-octagon
figure. The vaulting obscures and spoils the old Norman details of this very
handsome chamber.
Below the vestibule is the ground floor, probably a prison, a mere pit, 14
feet by 16 feet, and 21 feet high, aired by two loops very high up in the east
wall, and possibly by a third in the south wall. In the west wall, the wall of
the keep, is a lofty recess beneath the keep entrance, within which a hole
has been broken. At present this chamber is entered by a door at the ground-
level in the south wall, but this is certainly an insertion. The original
entrance must have been by a trap and ladder from the vestibule floor.
The second floor of the vestibule tower was 16 feet square, and had four
round-headed windows of 2 feet opening, now converted into shoulder-
headed windows. There are two in the north, two in the east, and one in the
south faces, each in a plain flat-sided recess, 3 feet broad. In the west wall,
where is the entrance from the mural gallery, is a recess, 12 feet broad and 2
feet deep, above the grand entrance of the keep. Its angle is replaced by a
nook-shaft, the particulars of which show that though the walls and the
deep recess, has flanking shafts, and a roll-moulding round the head. There
is no portcullis. The doorway opens into a chamber 14 feet by 15 feet,
which is the vestibule to the main entrance of the keep, and at the level of
its first floor. It has two windows to the north, two to the east, and to the
south the staircase door and a window, which rakes the exterior of the outer
wall of the staircase. These windows seem to have been of 12-inch opening,
but have been enlarged. They are placed in deep recesses, as in an arcade. In
the west wall is the great entrance—a noble archway—deeply recessed, and
flanked with four shafts on either side. The exterior arch is 10 feet span, the
doorway itself 6 feet. The plinths are unusually high, being 3 feet. The caps
are fluted and cushioned. The outer arch is full-centred, the actual doorway
segmental. The arch bands are worked in chevron and other mouldings.
Close north of the great entrance a plain narrow door opens into the
adjacent well-stair, but this is clearly an enlarged loop, which was intended
to light the staircase. The original covering of this room, like its present
floor, was of timber, but this has been replaced by an ill-executed vault of
the early Decorated period. It is arranged in two bays, the dividing rib
springing from pilasters let into the north and south walls. Each bay is
crossed diagonally by two ribs, springing from corbels of half-octagon
figure. The vaulting obscures and spoils the old Norman details of this very
handsome chamber.
Below the vestibule is the ground floor, probably a prison, a mere pit, 14
feet by 16 feet, and 21 feet high, aired by two loops very high up in the east
wall, and possibly by a third in the south wall. In the west wall, the wall of
the keep, is a lofty recess beneath the keep entrance, within which a hole
has been broken. At present this chamber is entered by a door at the ground-
level in the south wall, but this is certainly an insertion. The original
entrance must have been by a trap and ladder from the vestibule floor.
The second floor of the vestibule tower was 16 feet square, and had four
round-headed windows of 2 feet opening, now converted into shoulder-
headed windows. There are two in the north, two in the east, and one in the
south faces, each in a plain flat-sided recess, 3 feet broad. In the west wall,
where is the entrance from the mural gallery, is a recess, 12 feet broad and 2
feet deep, above the grand entrance of the keep. Its angle is replaced by a
nook-shaft, the particulars of which show that though the walls and the
Page 452
position of the windows are original, the floor-level has been raised, and a
fireplace inserted in the south wall. Like the vestibule, this room has had its
flat timber roof replaced by a high-pitched vault in two bays, groined and
ribbed, and with a dividing rib. All the ribs spring from semi-octagonal
piers inserted into the old walls. This vault appears outside in the form of a
high-pitched roof. It is of the age of that below.
The material of this keep is, in substance, flint rubble, coursed, but it is
faced largely with ashlar; and far more attention has been paid to
ornamentation than is usual with military buildings. The forebuilding is
faced wholly with ashlar, and richly ornamented. Over the outer portal are
broad bands of hatched and chevron work, filling up an arcade of two
arches, above which is a circle, with a centre carved as a head. The south-
eastern angle is occupied by a nook-shaft. The east front, the wall of the
staircase, is even more richly wrought. Here are two arcades at different
levels, corresponding to the level of each staircase roof, and above is a line
of circles, with centres carved as heads. There is a notion that the mural
passage over the middle doorway ended in a postern high up in this wall,
whence a ladder could be dropped; but there seems no ground for this
improbable opinion. Had there been such a postern, the two loops on the
stair would have been arranged for its defence; whereas they are too high up
to be used, save for light and air. It is curious that the forebuilding should be
so much more ornate outside than the keep; whereas at Dover and
Rochester, where also it contained a chapel, its outside is remarkably plain.
The subordinate staircases, that is, those at the two angles, are clumsily
arranged, and there is no arrangement by means of a landing to suit the
steps to the level of the floors supplied. No doubt the main stair was that
chiefly in use. The keep bears a close resemblance to that of Norwich,
especially in the position of its kitchen, north gallery, and chapel. The
forebuilding also is on the same plan. The arches generally are full-centred,
though a few of the doorways are segmental. Where the mural galleries are
at all expanded in breadth, and in the door recesses of the cross-wall and of
the outer entrance, the vaulting is lightly groined; and this, which occurs
also in the Tower of London and at Rochester, produces a good effect, and
takes off from the sameness of the barrel-vault. In the kitchen are piled up a
heap of fragments of carved stones found in or about the castle. They are in
all the styles—Norman, early English, Decorated, and a few Perpendicular.
Probably some came from the chapel of St. Nicholas; many of them can
fireplace inserted in the south wall. Like the vestibule, this room has had its
flat timber roof replaced by a high-pitched vault in two bays, groined and
ribbed, and with a dividing rib. All the ribs spring from semi-octagonal
piers inserted into the old walls. This vault appears outside in the form of a
high-pitched roof. It is of the age of that below.
The material of this keep is, in substance, flint rubble, coursed, but it is
faced largely with ashlar; and far more attention has been paid to
ornamentation than is usual with military buildings. The forebuilding is
faced wholly with ashlar, and richly ornamented. Over the outer portal are
broad bands of hatched and chevron work, filling up an arcade of two
arches, above which is a circle, with a centre carved as a head. The south-
eastern angle is occupied by a nook-shaft. The east front, the wall of the
staircase, is even more richly wrought. Here are two arcades at different
levels, corresponding to the level of each staircase roof, and above is a line
of circles, with centres carved as heads. There is a notion that the mural
passage over the middle doorway ended in a postern high up in this wall,
whence a ladder could be dropped; but there seems no ground for this
improbable opinion. Had there been such a postern, the two loops on the
stair would have been arranged for its defence; whereas they are too high up
to be used, save for light and air. It is curious that the forebuilding should be
so much more ornate outside than the keep; whereas at Dover and
Rochester, where also it contained a chapel, its outside is remarkably plain.
The subordinate staircases, that is, those at the two angles, are clumsily
arranged, and there is no arrangement by means of a landing to suit the
steps to the level of the floors supplied. No doubt the main stair was that
chiefly in use. The keep bears a close resemblance to that of Norwich,
especially in the position of its kitchen, north gallery, and chapel. The
forebuilding also is on the same plan. The arches generally are full-centred,
though a few of the doorways are segmental. Where the mural galleries are
at all expanded in breadth, and in the door recesses of the cross-wall and of
the outer entrance, the vaulting is lightly groined; and this, which occurs
also in the Tower of London and at Rochester, produces a good effect, and
takes off from the sameness of the barrel-vault. In the kitchen are piled up a
heap of fragments of carved stones found in or about the castle. They are in
all the styles—Norman, early English, Decorated, and a few Perpendicular.
Probably some came from the chapel of St. Nicholas; many of them can
Page 453
scarcely have belonged to the keep. If Castle Rising was built by the
architect of Norwich keep, it must be early Norman, for Norwich was
besieged 1076, at the revolt of Earl Guader, and Harrod supposes the
present keep to have been then standing; but the ornamentation of Castle
Rising looks much later, and on the whole there is no reason to refuse
assent to the tradition which attributes it to William d’Albini, who died
1176. As usual, there are no subterranean chambers. Though the three
doorways of the forebuilding had not, as at Dover, each a tower, each had a
distinct defence, the outer from the battlement over the portal, the middle
also from a battlement pierced by a shaft, and communicating with the
keep, and the inner as a part of the vestibule tower.
The gatehouse stands near the centre of the east side of the keep ward, in
the earth bank which has been cut away to allow it to be built. It is 325
yards from the north-east angle of the keep, and of the same age. It is of the
usual Norman pattern, a rectangular tower pierced by a passage, with an
arch of 12 feet opening at each end, set in the walls, of which the outer is 6
feet, and the inner 5 feet thick. The arches are quite plain, without rebate or
chamfer. The passage between the two is also 12 feet wide and 13 feet long,
and had a flat timber roof, the floor of the chamber above, now removed.
The outer arch has a portcullis groove, 3½ inches broad by 4½ inches deep,
and square. In the north wall are two shallow recesses, of 4 feet span by 1
foot 10 inches deep. In the south wall is one similar recess, and a door of 2
feet 6 inches opening, which seems to have led into a well-stair in the
south-west angle of the building. In front of the outer gateway the approach,
15 feet wide, lies between two walls, of which the southern still projects 15
feet. They probably protected the drawbridge, and between them was the
bridge-pit. Beyond these walls is the great ditch of the place, here about 80
feet broad and 30 feet deep, crossed by a bridge in masonry, of two arches,
of which the inner one is walled up. The open arch seems of Tudor date, but
the piers look original. The outer end of the bridge rests upon the
counterscarp of the ditch, about the centre of the eastern ward.
The gatehouse stood on the ground level, and, therefore, lower than the
curtain of the enceinte, which was built on the crest of the earth bank. The
original curtain, if one there was, as is probable, is entirely gone, and has
been replaced by a brick wall of the age of Henry VII., also nearly all gone.
Of this wall there remain, on the south side of the gate, about 12 yards. It is
architect of Norwich keep, it must be early Norman, for Norwich was
besieged 1076, at the revolt of Earl Guader, and Harrod supposes the
present keep to have been then standing; but the ornamentation of Castle
Rising looks much later, and on the whole there is no reason to refuse
assent to the tradition which attributes it to William d’Albini, who died
1176. As usual, there are no subterranean chambers. Though the three
doorways of the forebuilding had not, as at Dover, each a tower, each had a
distinct defence, the outer from the battlement over the portal, the middle
also from a battlement pierced by a shaft, and communicating with the
keep, and the inner as a part of the vestibule tower.
The gatehouse stands near the centre of the east side of the keep ward, in
the earth bank which has been cut away to allow it to be built. It is 325
yards from the north-east angle of the keep, and of the same age. It is of the
usual Norman pattern, a rectangular tower pierced by a passage, with an
arch of 12 feet opening at each end, set in the walls, of which the outer is 6
feet, and the inner 5 feet thick. The arches are quite plain, without rebate or
chamfer. The passage between the two is also 12 feet wide and 13 feet long,
and had a flat timber roof, the floor of the chamber above, now removed.
The outer arch has a portcullis groove, 3½ inches broad by 4½ inches deep,
and square. In the north wall are two shallow recesses, of 4 feet span by 1
foot 10 inches deep. In the south wall is one similar recess, and a door of 2
feet 6 inches opening, which seems to have led into a well-stair in the
south-west angle of the building. In front of the outer gateway the approach,
15 feet wide, lies between two walls, of which the southern still projects 15
feet. They probably protected the drawbridge, and between them was the
bridge-pit. Beyond these walls is the great ditch of the place, here about 80
feet broad and 30 feet deep, crossed by a bridge in masonry, of two arches,
of which the inner one is walled up. The open arch seems of Tudor date, but
the piers look original. The outer end of the bridge rests upon the
counterscarp of the ditch, about the centre of the eastern ward.
The gatehouse stood on the ground level, and, therefore, lower than the
curtain of the enceinte, which was built on the crest of the earth bank. The
original curtain, if one there was, as is probable, is entirely gone, and has
been replaced by a brick wall of the age of Henry VII., also nearly all gone.
Of this wall there remain, on the south side of the gate, about 12 yards. It is
Page 454
2 feet thick, but within was lined by an arcade 3 feet thick, which carried
the rampart walk, as at Southampton. These arches are 8 feet span, and
four-centred, with piers 3 feet broad, and within each arch or recess was a
loop. There remain three arches and a half. Besides this there is a fragment
of curtain south-west of the keep, and traces of foundations along the bank.
In the central ward, a few yards north of the keep, is a well, and further
north are the remains of the great chapel. This was composed of a nave,
choir or presbytery, and apse. The nave is about 12 feet broad and 25 feet
long. The arch into the presbytery was 5 feet broad, and across it is the base
of a stone screen with a door of 3 feet. There was a south door and a north
window. The font stood in the centre, near the west end. The presbytery was
8 feet long by 9 feet broad, with a loop to the south, and an arch of 6 feet
opening into the apse. The apse was rounded, and 8 feet broad by 9 feet
long, and had loops splayed internally to the north and east, and probably to
the south. It is said that the very early Norman font, now in the parish
church, came from hence. The masonry of what remains of this building is
of a rude character, and it is probably older than the keep. This is supposed
to be the chapel of St. Nicholas mentioned in the records. At present its
remains are niched into the bank, and it has the appearance of being the
older of the two, though this can scarcely be the case. The sand of the bank
is liable to be shifted by the wind, and as late as the commencement of the
present century the central ward was much encumbered with it, and the
keep more or less buried, so that this is probably the cause of the half-
buried condition of the ruins of the chapel.
The keep, chapel, and gatehouse are the only remains of Norman
masonry at present seen above ground. The inner ward must have contained
domestic buildings on a large scale, fit for the reception of royalty, but the
foundations which remain on the south of the keep seem very late, probably
of the Tudor period. They are said to be those of the constable’s lodgings.
There is no trace of masonry of any kind in the two outer wards.
The parish church, standing in the village of Castle Rising, is a fine
example of the late Norman style. Its west front, especially, is very rich, and
it has a good central tower. The chancel is rather later. The font is very
massive. Its square bowl is covered with carvings of an early character, and
it stands upon a plain cylinder, properly copied from the original support.
The bowl is said to have come from the castle.
the rampart walk, as at Southampton. These arches are 8 feet span, and
four-centred, with piers 3 feet broad, and within each arch or recess was a
loop. There remain three arches and a half. Besides this there is a fragment
of curtain south-west of the keep, and traces of foundations along the bank.
In the central ward, a few yards north of the keep, is a well, and further
north are the remains of the great chapel. This was composed of a nave,
choir or presbytery, and apse. The nave is about 12 feet broad and 25 feet
long. The arch into the presbytery was 5 feet broad, and across it is the base
of a stone screen with a door of 3 feet. There was a south door and a north
window. The font stood in the centre, near the west end. The presbytery was
8 feet long by 9 feet broad, with a loop to the south, and an arch of 6 feet
opening into the apse. The apse was rounded, and 8 feet broad by 9 feet
long, and had loops splayed internally to the north and east, and probably to
the south. It is said that the very early Norman font, now in the parish
church, came from hence. The masonry of what remains of this building is
of a rude character, and it is probably older than the keep. This is supposed
to be the chapel of St. Nicholas mentioned in the records. At present its
remains are niched into the bank, and it has the appearance of being the
older of the two, though this can scarcely be the case. The sand of the bank
is liable to be shifted by the wind, and as late as the commencement of the
present century the central ward was much encumbered with it, and the
keep more or less buried, so that this is probably the cause of the half-
buried condition of the ruins of the chapel.
The keep, chapel, and gatehouse are the only remains of Norman
masonry at present seen above ground. The inner ward must have contained
domestic buildings on a large scale, fit for the reception of royalty, but the
foundations which remain on the south of the keep seem very late, probably
of the Tudor period. They are said to be those of the constable’s lodgings.
There is no trace of masonry of any kind in the two outer wards.
The parish church, standing in the village of Castle Rising, is a fine
example of the late Norman style. Its west front, especially, is very rich, and
it has a good central tower. The chancel is rather later. The font is very
massive. Its square bowl is covered with carvings of an early character, and
it stands upon a plain cylinder, properly copied from the original support.
The bowl is said to have come from the castle.
Page 455
Rising, or rather Snettisham, in which manor it is contained, was a part of
the estate of Edwyn, a Dane, and a follower of Canute. So says Dugdale. In
Domesday it is entered as a “bervite” of the manor of Snettisham. “Huic
manerio jacet una bervita Risinga.” It had belonged to Archbishop Stigand,
and, on his forfeiture, William gave it to Bishop Odo, then Earl of Kent.
After Odo’s fall, Rufus granted it to William d’Albini, the royal “pincerna,”
or butler, son of Roger, and whose younger brother Nigel was ancestor of
the great house of Mowbray. The son of William was “William with the
Strong Hand,” the celebrated Earl of Arundel, and Lord of Buckenham, in
Norfolk, who married Adeliza of Louvaine, the Dowager Queen of Henry
I., and is the reputed builder of the keep before 1176.
Their son, a third William, died 1190, leaving a fourth William, who died
1221, and whose eldest son, a fifth William, died childless in 1224, when
Rising came to his brother Hugh, who left four sisters, co-heirs, of whom
Cecily had Rising, and married Roger, Lord Montalt. Their eldest son, John
Montalt, died childless, and was followed by his brother Robert, who died 3
Edward I., leaving Roger, who died childless 25 Edward I., and Robert,
who succeeded. This Robert de Montalt was a very considerable person,
both as a warrior and a statesman. He is locally celebrated for the winning
of a very important law-suit against the corporation of Lynn for the tolls of
that port and market in the reign of Edward II. Having no issue, he, in 1
Edward III., sold the reversion of Castle Rising to the Crown, for the
benefit of Queen Isabella, the “She-Wolf of France,” with remainder to
John of Eltham, the king’s brother. In 1331 Isabella came into possession,
and here lived in retirement to within a year of her death, which occurred at
Hertford in 1358. Edward, with his queen, here visited his mother, in the
fourteenth year of his reign.
John of Eltham having died childless, the castle came to the Black
Prince, and became part of the duchy of Cornwall, and so descended to
Richard II., who exchanged it with John, Duke of Bretagne, who held it in
1397, and occasionally resided there. It was afterwards recovered by the
Crown, and granted to Edmund of Langley, Duke of York, from whom it
passed to Edward IV., who again annexed it to the duchy, but the castle was
probably then in a ruinous state. In the time of Henry VII. it seems to have
been repaired. The roof of the keep was then covered with tiles, with great
gutters of lead. In the reign of Henry VIII. it was again in decay, and the
the estate of Edwyn, a Dane, and a follower of Canute. So says Dugdale. In
Domesday it is entered as a “bervite” of the manor of Snettisham. “Huic
manerio jacet una bervita Risinga.” It had belonged to Archbishop Stigand,
and, on his forfeiture, William gave it to Bishop Odo, then Earl of Kent.
After Odo’s fall, Rufus granted it to William d’Albini, the royal “pincerna,”
or butler, son of Roger, and whose younger brother Nigel was ancestor of
the great house of Mowbray. The son of William was “William with the
Strong Hand,” the celebrated Earl of Arundel, and Lord of Buckenham, in
Norfolk, who married Adeliza of Louvaine, the Dowager Queen of Henry
I., and is the reputed builder of the keep before 1176.
Their son, a third William, died 1190, leaving a fourth William, who died
1221, and whose eldest son, a fifth William, died childless in 1224, when
Rising came to his brother Hugh, who left four sisters, co-heirs, of whom
Cecily had Rising, and married Roger, Lord Montalt. Their eldest son, John
Montalt, died childless, and was followed by his brother Robert, who died 3
Edward I., leaving Roger, who died childless 25 Edward I., and Robert,
who succeeded. This Robert de Montalt was a very considerable person,
both as a warrior and a statesman. He is locally celebrated for the winning
of a very important law-suit against the corporation of Lynn for the tolls of
that port and market in the reign of Edward II. Having no issue, he, in 1
Edward III., sold the reversion of Castle Rising to the Crown, for the
benefit of Queen Isabella, the “She-Wolf of France,” with remainder to
John of Eltham, the king’s brother. In 1331 Isabella came into possession,
and here lived in retirement to within a year of her death, which occurred at
Hertford in 1358. Edward, with his queen, here visited his mother, in the
fourteenth year of his reign.
John of Eltham having died childless, the castle came to the Black
Prince, and became part of the duchy of Cornwall, and so descended to
Richard II., who exchanged it with John, Duke of Bretagne, who held it in
1397, and occasionally resided there. It was afterwards recovered by the
Crown, and granted to Edmund of Langley, Duke of York, from whom it
passed to Edward IV., who again annexed it to the duchy, but the castle was
probably then in a ruinous state. In the time of Henry VII. it seems to have
been repaired. The roof of the keep was then covered with tiles, with great
gutters of lead. In the reign of Henry VIII. it was again in decay, and the
Page 456
keep and gatehouse were roofless, and it would seem that the constable’s
lodging was the only habitable part. Finally, the king exchanged the castle
manor and chase of Rising with Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, and in
1693 it came to another Thomas Howard, ancestor of the Earls of Suffolk
and Berks, one of whose descendants still holds it. As late as the 31st of
Elizabeth there was a curtain-wall upon the bank which was in danger from
the burrowing of the conies, and there was also a gatehouse and a bridge 90
yards long and 7 yards broad. Under the castle, by the tenure of castle-
guard, were held the manors of Hunstanton, Reydon, and the Wottons.
lodging was the only habitable part. Finally, the king exchanged the castle
manor and chase of Rising with Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, and in
1693 it came to another Thomas Howard, ancestor of the Earls of Suffolk
and Berks, one of whose descendants still holds it. As late as the 31st of
Elizabeth there was a curtain-wall upon the bank which was in danger from
the burrowing of the conies, and there was also a gatehouse and a bridge 90
yards long and 7 yards broad. Under the castle, by the tenure of castle-
guard, were held the manors of Hunstanton, Reydon, and the Wottons.
Page 457
CHÂTEAU-GAILLARD, ON THE SEINE.
CHÂTEAU-GAILLARD, though a French castle, is here introduced as
being the work of an English king, and a very remarkable example of the
military architecture of the close of the twelfth century.
Château-Gaillard, the “Saucy Castle” of Cœur-de-Lion, the work of one
year of his brief reign, and the enduring monument of his skill as a military
engineer, is in its position and details one of the most remarkable, and in its
history one of the most interesting of the castles of Normandy. Although a
ruin, enough remains to enable the antiquary to recover all its leading
particulars. These particulars, both in plan and elevation, are so peculiar that
experience derived from other buildings throws but an uncertain light upon
their age; but of this guide, usually so important, they are independent, from
the somewhat uncommon fact that the fortress is wholly of one date, and
that date is on record. Moreover, within a few years of its construction,
whilst its defences were new and perfect, with a numerous garrison and a
castellan, one of the best soldiers of the Anglo-Norman baronage, it was
besieged by the whole disposable force of the most powerful monarch of
his day; and the particulars of the siege have been recorded by a
contemporary historian with a minuteness which leaves little for the
imagination to supply, and which, by the help of the place and works, but
little changed, enables us to obtain a very clear comprehension of the
manner in which great fortresses were attacked and defended at the
commencement of the thirteenth century.
Château-Gaillard crowns the almost precipitous head of a bold and
narrow promontory of chalk, which, isolated on either hand by a deep
valley, stands out from the broad table-land of Le Vexin, at a height of 300
feet above the deep and rapid Seine, which washes and has for ages
threatened to undermine its base.
The course of the Seine through Normandy, from below the conflux of
the Epte to the sea, is one rapid succession of bold and graceful curves, the
concavities of which, bluff and precipitous, are attacked by the advancing
CHÂTEAU-GAILLARD, though a French castle, is here introduced as
being the work of an English king, and a very remarkable example of the
military architecture of the close of the twelfth century.
Château-Gaillard, the “Saucy Castle” of Cœur-de-Lion, the work of one
year of his brief reign, and the enduring monument of his skill as a military
engineer, is in its position and details one of the most remarkable, and in its
history one of the most interesting of the castles of Normandy. Although a
ruin, enough remains to enable the antiquary to recover all its leading
particulars. These particulars, both in plan and elevation, are so peculiar that
experience derived from other buildings throws but an uncertain light upon
their age; but of this guide, usually so important, they are independent, from
the somewhat uncommon fact that the fortress is wholly of one date, and
that date is on record. Moreover, within a few years of its construction,
whilst its defences were new and perfect, with a numerous garrison and a
castellan, one of the best soldiers of the Anglo-Norman baronage, it was
besieged by the whole disposable force of the most powerful monarch of
his day; and the particulars of the siege have been recorded by a
contemporary historian with a minuteness which leaves little for the
imagination to supply, and which, by the help of the place and works, but
little changed, enables us to obtain a very clear comprehension of the
manner in which great fortresses were attacked and defended at the
commencement of the thirteenth century.
Château-Gaillard crowns the almost precipitous head of a bold and
narrow promontory of chalk, which, isolated on either hand by a deep
valley, stands out from the broad table-land of Le Vexin, at a height of 300
feet above the deep and rapid Seine, which washes and has for ages
threatened to undermine its base.
The course of the Seine through Normandy, from below the conflux of
the Epte to the sea, is one rapid succession of bold and graceful curves, the
concavities of which, bluff and precipitous, are attacked by the advancing
Page 458
stream, in strong contrast to the opposite banks, which, deposited and
encircled by it, are low and fertile, and studded with ancient villages,
churches, and manor-houses, rising through a mantle of rich, smiling
verdure.
At the bottom of one of the grandest of these reaches, on the margin of a
vast amphitheatre, stands the saucy boast of Cœur-de-Lion. Right and left
are the bold bluffs of the chalk range, masked with turf, green as that of
Sussex or Kent, varied by the occasional protrusion of a cliff of chalk, and
relieved by a band of vegetation covering up the foot of the steep, and
intervening between the high ground and the river. In front, beyond the
innumerable islands of the Seine, is the tongue of rich low land known as
the peninsula of Bernieres, a village, which, with Toeni and Venables—
names familiar in Anglo-Norman history—is seen in the foreground. The
valley on the right, or east, and immediately below the castle, is that of the
Gambon, upon which are the towns of Great and Little Andelys; the former
the birthplace—or within a mile of the birthplace—of Nicholas Poussin and
Brunel; the latter half-a-mile lower down, upon the junction of the stream
with the Seine, and under the immediate command of the castle, and
contemporary with its foundation.
Château-Gaillard is composed of two principal parts, the castle proper
and the outwork: the one covering the whole head of the promontory, the
other occupying the only level ground, being the root of the ridge, from
which the fortress could be attacked on equal terms.
The castle proper is composed of a keep; an inner ward, of the enceinte
of which the keep forms a part, and which has its own ditch; and an outer
ward, within which the inner ward is placed, the two uniting, or nearly so,
at the north end. This division of the fortress is therefore concentric. The
outwork, in advance of the ditch of the outer ward, has a ditch of its own,
and presents its salient or strongest part towards the south.
The keep is a tower of which one half, in plan, is round, and the other
projects into the ward as a right angle, or spur—a form of tower well known
in French castles. It is 48 feet in diameter, or 55 feet taken at the spur. The
walls are 11 feet thick, at the spur 18 feet, and the circular interior is 26 feet.
At this time it is composed of a basement and a first floor; nor does there
appear to have been a second below the ramparts. In the basement is one
encircled by it, are low and fertile, and studded with ancient villages,
churches, and manor-houses, rising through a mantle of rich, smiling
verdure.
At the bottom of one of the grandest of these reaches, on the margin of a
vast amphitheatre, stands the saucy boast of Cœur-de-Lion. Right and left
are the bold bluffs of the chalk range, masked with turf, green as that of
Sussex or Kent, varied by the occasional protrusion of a cliff of chalk, and
relieved by a band of vegetation covering up the foot of the steep, and
intervening between the high ground and the river. In front, beyond the
innumerable islands of the Seine, is the tongue of rich low land known as
the peninsula of Bernieres, a village, which, with Toeni and Venables—
names familiar in Anglo-Norman history—is seen in the foreground. The
valley on the right, or east, and immediately below the castle, is that of the
Gambon, upon which are the towns of Great and Little Andelys; the former
the birthplace—or within a mile of the birthplace—of Nicholas Poussin and
Brunel; the latter half-a-mile lower down, upon the junction of the stream
with the Seine, and under the immediate command of the castle, and
contemporary with its foundation.
Château-Gaillard is composed of two principal parts, the castle proper
and the outwork: the one covering the whole head of the promontory, the
other occupying the only level ground, being the root of the ridge, from
which the fortress could be attacked on equal terms.
The castle proper is composed of a keep; an inner ward, of the enceinte
of which the keep forms a part, and which has its own ditch; and an outer
ward, within which the inner ward is placed, the two uniting, or nearly so,
at the north end. This division of the fortress is therefore concentric. The
outwork, in advance of the ditch of the outer ward, has a ditch of its own,
and presents its salient or strongest part towards the south.
The keep is a tower of which one half, in plan, is round, and the other
projects into the ward as a right angle, or spur—a form of tower well known
in French castles. It is 48 feet in diameter, or 55 feet taken at the spur. The
walls are 11 feet thick, at the spur 18 feet, and the circular interior is 26 feet.
At this time it is composed of a basement and a first floor; nor does there
appear to have been a second below the ramparts. In the basement is one
Page 459
window towards the west, or exterior, and a rough aperture towards the east,
or the inner ward. There are marks as though this had been a door of 4 feet
6 inches opening; but if so, it was doubtless not original. This keep is not
likely to have had an entrance on the ground floor.
The first floor has two windows towards the west, and a door to the
north. The windows being on the cliff side, and inaccessible, are moderately
large. They are of two lights, flat-headed, beneath an equilateral arch. Their
internal recesses are slightly pointed. The doorway, also flat-headed,
occupies the space of a window-light. In the other space is a loop,
commanding the approach. Both are beneath a round-headed arch, the
tympanum being closed.
There are neither mural chambers nor a staircase within the keep. The
floors and stairs were of wood. There is no fireplace, nor visible garderobe,
and no well. The spur is solid.
The exterior is very peculiar. The lower two-thirds batters considerably
all round, so as to add strength to the base, and cause a missile dropped
from above to be projected outwards upon an assailant. About half-way up
this slope there commences from corbels a series of buttresses, which
expand laterally as they rise, but have vertical faces. They are, in fact,
machicolations, but commencing low down; and, like ordinary
machicolations, are connected by a series of arches, carrying the parapet,
behind which was a passage for projectiles, as, for example, at Avignon.
These exaggerated machicolations give a considerable increase of space to
the top of the keep, but they are confined to its inner two-thirds, the outer
side being sufficiently secure without them. As the upper part of the keep
has been removed, the arches are gone, and only the buttresses remain. One
of these defences overhung the entrance.
From a curious representation of the castle in stone in the church of Great
Andelys, there is evidence that the keep was surmounted by a second and
smaller tower within the rampart walk, and this again by another within
that, rising like the tubes of a telescope. These probably were of timber.
A narrow flight of steps, commencing at the ward level, and carried up
the outside of the keep, ascended, with two turns, to the entrance. Part of
this narrow and dangerous staircase remains. There are also traces of a lean-
to building on the east side of the keep, probably an addition.
or the inner ward. There are marks as though this had been a door of 4 feet
6 inches opening; but if so, it was doubtless not original. This keep is not
likely to have had an entrance on the ground floor.
The first floor has two windows towards the west, and a door to the
north. The windows being on the cliff side, and inaccessible, are moderately
large. They are of two lights, flat-headed, beneath an equilateral arch. Their
internal recesses are slightly pointed. The doorway, also flat-headed,
occupies the space of a window-light. In the other space is a loop,
commanding the approach. Both are beneath a round-headed arch, the
tympanum being closed.
There are neither mural chambers nor a staircase within the keep. The
floors and stairs were of wood. There is no fireplace, nor visible garderobe,
and no well. The spur is solid.
The exterior is very peculiar. The lower two-thirds batters considerably
all round, so as to add strength to the base, and cause a missile dropped
from above to be projected outwards upon an assailant. About half-way up
this slope there commences from corbels a series of buttresses, which
expand laterally as they rise, but have vertical faces. They are, in fact,
machicolations, but commencing low down; and, like ordinary
machicolations, are connected by a series of arches, carrying the parapet,
behind which was a passage for projectiles, as, for example, at Avignon.
These exaggerated machicolations give a considerable increase of space to
the top of the keep, but they are confined to its inner two-thirds, the outer
side being sufficiently secure without them. As the upper part of the keep
has been removed, the arches are gone, and only the buttresses remain. One
of these defences overhung the entrance.
From a curious representation of the castle in stone in the church of Great
Andelys, there is evidence that the keep was surmounted by a second and
smaller tower within the rampart walk, and this again by another within
that, rising like the tubes of a telescope. These probably were of timber.
A narrow flight of steps, commencing at the ward level, and carried up
the outside of the keep, ascended, with two turns, to the entrance. Part of
this narrow and dangerous staircase remains. There are also traces of a lean-
to building on the east side of the keep, probably an addition.
Page 460
The material of the keep is flint rubble, grouted in a copious bath of
mortar, and faced inside and out with ashlar. The stones are about 1 foot 6
inches long by 6 inches high, and are a hard and durable variety of chalk,
with occasional flints. The material is probably local. The workmanship,
though plain and without ornament, is good. The joints are moderately
open, enough to admit an ordinary lead-pencil.
The inner ward is something of the shape of the human ear, the keep
standing in the west or hollow side, and the lobe being to the north or north-
east. This ward measures about 200 feet north and south by 100 feet east
and west. Its enceinte wall is one of the curiosities of the castle. It is in girth
about 500 feet. Of this the keep, a round tower, and an intermediate
building, occupy about one-third on the north-west quarter, and the
remaining two-thirds includes some plain wall, a gateway, and seventeen
segmental buttresses of 9 feet in the chord, placed upon the curtain 3 feet
apart. The wall, about 8 feet thick, is plain within. By means of this
arrangement great strength was given to the wall, and a series of flanking
defences provided on the only face on which the ground admitted of any
attack being directed. This part of the wall was probably about 30 feet high,
and stood upon a vertical scarp of about 20 feet more. The battlements are
gone, so that it does not appear how the wall was crested. A wall similarly
buttressed, and of rather earlier date, existed at the Castle of Cherbourg, and
there is something a little like it at Caerphilly.
The keep has already been described. It stands in the line of this enceinte,
on the west side, which it protects. Annexed to the keep, on the north side,
and also a part of the enceinte, is a rectangular building, probably the
lodging of the castellan. It is about 30 feet wide, and 40 feet long, having a
basement excavated in the chalk rock. It is of two floors, with fireplaces and
segmental arches, and has an appendage on the north, perhaps for offices. It
has windows in the curtain looking over the cliff towards the river. Stairs
from hence descend to the postern, and the keep stair lies between this
building and the keep.
At the northern point outside of, but engaged in, the wall, is the
foundation of a round tower, now included in a square bastion, belonging
rather to the outer ward than to this.
mortar, and faced inside and out with ashlar. The stones are about 1 foot 6
inches long by 6 inches high, and are a hard and durable variety of chalk,
with occasional flints. The material is probably local. The workmanship,
though plain and without ornament, is good. The joints are moderately
open, enough to admit an ordinary lead-pencil.
The inner ward is something of the shape of the human ear, the keep
standing in the west or hollow side, and the lobe being to the north or north-
east. This ward measures about 200 feet north and south by 100 feet east
and west. Its enceinte wall is one of the curiosities of the castle. It is in girth
about 500 feet. Of this the keep, a round tower, and an intermediate
building, occupy about one-third on the north-west quarter, and the
remaining two-thirds includes some plain wall, a gateway, and seventeen
segmental buttresses of 9 feet in the chord, placed upon the curtain 3 feet
apart. The wall, about 8 feet thick, is plain within. By means of this
arrangement great strength was given to the wall, and a series of flanking
defences provided on the only face on which the ground admitted of any
attack being directed. This part of the wall was probably about 30 feet high,
and stood upon a vertical scarp of about 20 feet more. The battlements are
gone, so that it does not appear how the wall was crested. A wall similarly
buttressed, and of rather earlier date, existed at the Castle of Cherbourg, and
there is something a little like it at Caerphilly.
The keep has already been described. It stands in the line of this enceinte,
on the west side, which it protects. Annexed to the keep, on the north side,
and also a part of the enceinte, is a rectangular building, probably the
lodging of the castellan. It is about 30 feet wide, and 40 feet long, having a
basement excavated in the chalk rock. It is of two floors, with fireplaces and
segmental arches, and has an appendage on the north, perhaps for offices. It
has windows in the curtain looking over the cliff towards the river. Stairs
from hence descend to the postern, and the keep stair lies between this
building and the keep.
At the northern point outside of, but engaged in, the wall, is the
foundation of a round tower, now included in a square bastion, belonging
rather to the outer ward than to this.
Page 461
The postern is common to this and the outer ward, or rather at this point
the two run into one, and the postern pierces the common wall. It is a
narrow door having a flat top supported by two brackets, and above a
round-head arch with closed tympanum. It opens in a re-entering angle of
the wall, covered by the bastion, and upon the scarp, so that it must have
been reached by a shifting bridge or ladder, the arrangements for working
which seem indicated by some recesses for bars just within the portal. There
is no portcullis; the defence was a barred door. The cill of this postern is
about 30 feet below the base of the keep. It is reached by steps cut in the
chalk rock, and but little worn.
The great gateway of this ward opens in the curtain to the east, and had a
gatehouse almost entirely within the wall. This gate is considerably below
the level of the ward. A steep descent leads to it, and the portal vault has
three hanging ribs or arches, with a portcullis inside them, with a square
groove. The inner half of the portal is gone; probably there was a second
vault and portcullis, and an open space between. The face of the porter’s
lodge is gone, but the lodge is seen to have had a plain segmental vault.
Outside the gate is a curious square groove as for a portcullis, but it is
stopped, and does not descend below the springing level of the gate arch.
This gate opens upon the ditch. The base of the scarp-pier of the bridge
remains. The counterscarp has tumbled in. There was, probably, a central
pier in the ditch. The present bridge is not original. The approach to this
gate left by Cœur-de-Lion was a causeway, formed by leaving the rock
uncut. It was over this causeway that the inner ward was stormed and taken.
Just within this gate was a well 270 feet deep, now blocked up.
Outside the enceinte is the ditch, about 20 feet deep, and 30 feet wide at
the gate, and along the south front, with vertical sides, but running out to
nothing on the steep ground as its ends pass northwards.
This ditch is, in fact, in the outer ward, which envelopes the inner ward.
This ward is oblong, about 325 feet north and south, and 200 feet east and
west. Its northern half is of an irregular oval form, following the rock, and
terminating in two large rectangular conjoined bastions upon the precipitous
north end. The southern half is nearly rectangular; having a straight south
face 125 feet long, flanked by two drum towers. From these pass off the
lateral curtains, forming the east and west front, and ending in two other
the two run into one, and the postern pierces the common wall. It is a
narrow door having a flat top supported by two brackets, and above a
round-head arch with closed tympanum. It opens in a re-entering angle of
the wall, covered by the bastion, and upon the scarp, so that it must have
been reached by a shifting bridge or ladder, the arrangements for working
which seem indicated by some recesses for bars just within the portal. There
is no portcullis; the defence was a barred door. The cill of this postern is
about 30 feet below the base of the keep. It is reached by steps cut in the
chalk rock, and but little worn.
The great gateway of this ward opens in the curtain to the east, and had a
gatehouse almost entirely within the wall. This gate is considerably below
the level of the ward. A steep descent leads to it, and the portal vault has
three hanging ribs or arches, with a portcullis inside them, with a square
groove. The inner half of the portal is gone; probably there was a second
vault and portcullis, and an open space between. The face of the porter’s
lodge is gone, but the lodge is seen to have had a plain segmental vault.
Outside the gate is a curious square groove as for a portcullis, but it is
stopped, and does not descend below the springing level of the gate arch.
This gate opens upon the ditch. The base of the scarp-pier of the bridge
remains. The counterscarp has tumbled in. There was, probably, a central
pier in the ditch. The present bridge is not original. The approach to this
gate left by Cœur-de-Lion was a causeway, formed by leaving the rock
uncut. It was over this causeway that the inner ward was stormed and taken.
Just within this gate was a well 270 feet deep, now blocked up.
Outside the enceinte is the ditch, about 20 feet deep, and 30 feet wide at
the gate, and along the south front, with vertical sides, but running out to
nothing on the steep ground as its ends pass northwards.
This ditch is, in fact, in the outer ward, which envelopes the inner ward.
This ward is oblong, about 325 feet north and south, and 200 feet east and
west. Its northern half is of an irregular oval form, following the rock, and
terminating in two large rectangular conjoined bastions upon the precipitous
north end. The southern half is nearly rectangular; having a straight south
face 125 feet long, flanked by two drum towers. From these pass off the
lateral curtains, forming the east and west front, and ending in two other
Page 462
drum towers, of which that to the east, nearly opposite the inner-ward
gateway, is gone. The curtain, from this tower northwards, is also gone. On
the opposite or west side it is a mere parapet, cresting the precipice and
following its outlines. From the manner in which the inner ward is placed in
this ward it occupies nearly all its northern end, but leaves to the south a
platform, outside the ditch, of about 140 feet by 100 feet. Here is a
rectangular foundation, about 40 feet broad by 60 feet long, and divided
lengthways by a wall. Its length is north and south, but here is said to have
been the chapel, probably built across one end. It was the work of King
John, placed upon a substructure of cellars, and in close contiguity to the
castle garderobe in the west wall. “Juxta foricas, quod quidem religioni
contrarium videbatur,” says the chronicler. The end walls and the east side
are faced with ashlar, but there is now nothing like a chapel. Here, however,
it appears to have been, and its roof was visible above the wall. These
foundations are interesting, since it was here, through a window in the
contiguous wall, that the ward was entered and surprised during the great
siege.
gateway, is gone. The curtain, from this tower northwards, is also gone. On
the opposite or west side it is a mere parapet, cresting the precipice and
following its outlines. From the manner in which the inner ward is placed in
this ward it occupies nearly all its northern end, but leaves to the south a
platform, outside the ditch, of about 140 feet by 100 feet. Here is a
rectangular foundation, about 40 feet broad by 60 feet long, and divided
lengthways by a wall. Its length is north and south, but here is said to have
been the chapel, probably built across one end. It was the work of King
John, placed upon a substructure of cellars, and in close contiguity to the
castle garderobe in the west wall. “Juxta foricas, quod quidem religioni
contrarium videbatur,” says the chronicler. The end walls and the east side
are faced with ashlar, but there is now nothing like a chapel. Here, however,
it appears to have been, and its roof was visible above the wall. These
foundations are interesting, since it was here, through a window in the
contiguous wall, that the ward was entered and surprised during the great
siege.
Page 463
PLAN OF CHÂTEAU-GAILLARD.
A. Inner Ward and Keep. B. Middle Ward. b′. Chapel.
a. Postern. b. Cellars. C. Outer Ward or
Ravelin.
No regular gateway remains in this ward. There is an opening in the
south curtain which led to the great outwork, but which could scarcely have
been the regular entrance. Neither could this have been on the west or north
fronts. Probably, therefore, it was to the north-east, where the wall is now
wanting. It is said not to have been opposite the inner gateway. At best the
approach must have been little suited to wheel carriages. There was a well
in the east quarter of this ward.
Mention has to be made of some curious chambers cut in the chalk of the
escarpment of the ditch, from which at this time they are entered. There are
three or four of these, about 80 feet in length and 7 feet high. They are
carved with a sort of rough regularity, with pilasters left against the wall,
and bands representing segmental arches. One large octagonal pier has a
A. Inner Ward and Keep. B. Middle Ward. b′. Chapel.
a. Postern. b. Cellars. C. Outer Ward or
Ravelin.
No regular gateway remains in this ward. There is an opening in the
south curtain which led to the great outwork, but which could scarcely have
been the regular entrance. Neither could this have been on the west or north
fronts. Probably, therefore, it was to the north-east, where the wall is now
wanting. It is said not to have been opposite the inner gateway. At best the
approach must have been little suited to wheel carriages. There was a well
in the east quarter of this ward.
Mention has to be made of some curious chambers cut in the chalk of the
escarpment of the ditch, from which at this time they are entered. There are
three or four of these, about 80 feet in length and 7 feet high. They are
carved with a sort of rough regularity, with pilasters left against the wall,
and bands representing segmental arches. One large octagonal pier has a
Page 464
cap and base, and the latter has the water-bearing hollow of the Early
English style, and is evidently original. It is probable, from what is said of
these places in the account of the surprise of this ward, that they had a door
towards the ditch, but they seem to have been also entered by a round hole,
4 feet across, in the roof, as was the case with the dungeons at Coucy.
The outer ward has its proper ditch, cut with vertical sides across the
ridge in front of the south wall, between it and the rear of the outwork. This
ditch is about 30 feet wide and 20 feet deep, but runs out to nothing when it
reaches the steep ground.
The outwork, ravelin, or outer ward, is an antemural work, intended to
cover the only side upon which the castle was open to an attack from level,
or rather rising, ground, and to occupy what would otherwise have been a
very dangerous platform.
It is in figure an isosceles triangle, having a base of 125 feet, and sides of
175 feet. Each of the three angles is capped by a round tower of 35 feet
diameter, having walls 11 feet thick, and which seem to have been at least
40 feet high. Besides these, in the side walls, 60 feet in rear of the front
tower, are two subordinate towers, also round, of 25 feet diameter; and
again, a few feet from these, the curtain is slightly bent, so as to present an
obtuse salient to the field. The work, therefore, though in general plan a
triangle, has really five angles and as many towers. The front tower has a
well-stair at its junction with its western curtain. The curtain is much
broken down, but must have been at least 30 feet high, and, near the front,
about 12 feet thick, and elsewhere 8 feet.
The rear or gorge wall is not exactly a curtain to the flanking towers. It is
placed a little outside of them, on the edge of the ditch; and between it and
the east tower was the gateway, the special and independent entrance of the
outwork. The north side is gone, but the other side shows the springing of
the portal arches and a square portcullis groove. In this gorge wall, not far
from the gate, is a large arch, corresponding to that already mentioned in
the outer-ward wall. This was, no doubt, a way of communication between
the castle and the earthwork. This ditch was crossed by a wall at the east
end, which connected the two works and protected the bridge. The west end
is filled with ruins. There are now no traces of buildings in the outwork.
English style, and is evidently original. It is probable, from what is said of
these places in the account of the surprise of this ward, that they had a door
towards the ditch, but they seem to have been also entered by a round hole,
4 feet across, in the roof, as was the case with the dungeons at Coucy.
The outer ward has its proper ditch, cut with vertical sides across the
ridge in front of the south wall, between it and the rear of the outwork. This
ditch is about 30 feet wide and 20 feet deep, but runs out to nothing when it
reaches the steep ground.
The outwork, ravelin, or outer ward, is an antemural work, intended to
cover the only side upon which the castle was open to an attack from level,
or rather rising, ground, and to occupy what would otherwise have been a
very dangerous platform.
It is in figure an isosceles triangle, having a base of 125 feet, and sides of
175 feet. Each of the three angles is capped by a round tower of 35 feet
diameter, having walls 11 feet thick, and which seem to have been at least
40 feet high. Besides these, in the side walls, 60 feet in rear of the front
tower, are two subordinate towers, also round, of 25 feet diameter; and
again, a few feet from these, the curtain is slightly bent, so as to present an
obtuse salient to the field. The work, therefore, though in general plan a
triangle, has really five angles and as many towers. The front tower has a
well-stair at its junction with its western curtain. The curtain is much
broken down, but must have been at least 30 feet high, and, near the front,
about 12 feet thick, and elsewhere 8 feet.
The rear or gorge wall is not exactly a curtain to the flanking towers. It is
placed a little outside of them, on the edge of the ditch; and between it and
the east tower was the gateway, the special and independent entrance of the
outwork. The north side is gone, but the other side shows the springing of
the portal arches and a square portcullis groove. In this gorge wall, not far
from the gate, is a large arch, corresponding to that already mentioned in
the outer-ward wall. This was, no doubt, a way of communication between
the castle and the earthwork. This ditch was crossed by a wall at the east
end, which connected the two works and protected the bridge. The west end
is filled with ruins. There are now no traces of buildings in the outwork.
Page 465
The towers of the outwork are of great strength, and have been faced
with ashlar. The front tower especially is strong, and does not appear ever to
have been mined or breached. Also the rock beneath it is undisturbed.
Possibly the breach spoken of at the siege was in the adjacent curtain on the
east.
In the rear of this work is the ditch already described, and along its front
and flanks is another ditch, proper to the outwork, and the most formidable
of all the defences. It is above 30 feet wide, and at the advanced point,
where the ground rises, above 40 feet deep. The scarp and counterscarp are
vertical.
Besides these regular works are others of a less regular but very
formidable character, on the west side. This face of the rock towards the
Seine, steep naturally, has been scarped and defended by art. Half-way
down the slope is a round tower, connected, it is said, with the work above,
by a gallery cut in the chalk. From the tower a wall descended to the river,
so that the approaches on this side and the road between the hill and the
river were effectually commanded. This wall seems to have terminated on
the river bank, in a pier of which traces remain, and which supported one
end of a strong dam or weir of piles, which extended across the river, and
was part of the original work of Cœur-de-Lion. Several other works were
stepped into the rocky slope, and especially covered the west side.
The weir crossed above the island, called formerly D’Andelys, upon
which was the octangular fort, erected also by Richard, and of which traces
remain. The bridges from this island, either way, to the banks, were of
timber, and have left no trace behind.
Finally are to be mentioned the fortifications of the lesser Andelys, now
destroyed, and the lake, fed by the waters of the Gambon, and which
washed the walls of Great Andelys, and completely enveloped the lower
town. These additional defences are now destroyed and the lake is drained
and filled up, but indications remain sufficient to verify the detailed
description of Guillaume le Breton, and to justify M. Deville in his
description, and M. le Duc, in his restorations, advanced under the excellent
articles “Château” and “Donjon” in his “Dictionary.”
with ashlar. The front tower especially is strong, and does not appear ever to
have been mined or breached. Also the rock beneath it is undisturbed.
Possibly the breach spoken of at the siege was in the adjacent curtain on the
east.
In the rear of this work is the ditch already described, and along its front
and flanks is another ditch, proper to the outwork, and the most formidable
of all the defences. It is above 30 feet wide, and at the advanced point,
where the ground rises, above 40 feet deep. The scarp and counterscarp are
vertical.
Besides these regular works are others of a less regular but very
formidable character, on the west side. This face of the rock towards the
Seine, steep naturally, has been scarped and defended by art. Half-way
down the slope is a round tower, connected, it is said, with the work above,
by a gallery cut in the chalk. From the tower a wall descended to the river,
so that the approaches on this side and the road between the hill and the
river were effectually commanded. This wall seems to have terminated on
the river bank, in a pier of which traces remain, and which supported one
end of a strong dam or weir of piles, which extended across the river, and
was part of the original work of Cœur-de-Lion. Several other works were
stepped into the rocky slope, and especially covered the west side.
The weir crossed above the island, called formerly D’Andelys, upon
which was the octangular fort, erected also by Richard, and of which traces
remain. The bridges from this island, either way, to the banks, were of
timber, and have left no trace behind.
Finally are to be mentioned the fortifications of the lesser Andelys, now
destroyed, and the lake, fed by the waters of the Gambon, and which
washed the walls of Great Andelys, and completely enveloped the lower
town. These additional defences are now destroyed and the lake is drained
and filled up, but indications remain sufficient to verify the detailed
description of Guillaume le Breton, and to justify M. Deville in his
description, and M. le Duc, in his restorations, advanced under the excellent
articles “Château” and “Donjon” in his “Dictionary.”
Page 466
THE CASTLE OF CHRISTCHURCH, HANTS.
THE town, castle, and priory of Christchurch are placed upon the south-
eastern point and edge of a tongue of moderately-high ground, which
intervenes between the Stour on the west and the Avon on the east. The two
rivers of Dorset and Wilts meander like their prototype,
“. . . . toties qui terris errat in isdem,”
and flow across broad and marshy tracts of land to unite below
Christchurch in a spacious inlet of the bay which is formed, and on the
south-east protected, by the headland bearing the suggestive name of
Hengistbury. The position is thus strong and convenient: unapproachable,
by reason of the marshes, on the east and west; presenting to the north a
narrow and defencible front, and placed upon a harbour in former days very
suitable for small vessels, sheltered from the prevailing west wind, and
having a narrow and easily-guarded entrance from the adjacent channel.
Such a position was not likely to be neglected by any people, even in the
rudest age, and accordingly the Britons seem to have fortified the headland:
and those who drove them out not only gave to that headland its present
name, but, finding the inner position better suited to their habits, fortified it
with bank and ditch, and within the area so enclosed threw up the usual
mound, or burh, the ordinary indication of the residence of an early English
chieftain.
The remains of the British period are confined to the double banks and
ditches, which still crown the headland, and to the names of the rivers,
which there unite. Of a British town or church, Aberdour, as such would
have probably been called, no traces are to be found.
The earliest mention of the place in Anglo-Saxon records is in the
Chronicle in a.d. 901, where it is recorded, that on the death of Alfred and
the succession of Edward the Elder, Æthelwold, his uncle’s son, seized the
vill at “Winburne and that at Tweoxneam,” but on Edward’s marching to
Badbury, and threatening an attack on Winburne, now Wimborne, he fled
into the North. This statement is repeated by Florence of Worcester, with
THE town, castle, and priory of Christchurch are placed upon the south-
eastern point and edge of a tongue of moderately-high ground, which
intervenes between the Stour on the west and the Avon on the east. The two
rivers of Dorset and Wilts meander like their prototype,
“. . . . toties qui terris errat in isdem,”
and flow across broad and marshy tracts of land to unite below
Christchurch in a spacious inlet of the bay which is formed, and on the
south-east protected, by the headland bearing the suggestive name of
Hengistbury. The position is thus strong and convenient: unapproachable,
by reason of the marshes, on the east and west; presenting to the north a
narrow and defencible front, and placed upon a harbour in former days very
suitable for small vessels, sheltered from the prevailing west wind, and
having a narrow and easily-guarded entrance from the adjacent channel.
Such a position was not likely to be neglected by any people, even in the
rudest age, and accordingly the Britons seem to have fortified the headland:
and those who drove them out not only gave to that headland its present
name, but, finding the inner position better suited to their habits, fortified it
with bank and ditch, and within the area so enclosed threw up the usual
mound, or burh, the ordinary indication of the residence of an early English
chieftain.
The remains of the British period are confined to the double banks and
ditches, which still crown the headland, and to the names of the rivers,
which there unite. Of a British town or church, Aberdour, as such would
have probably been called, no traces are to be found.
The earliest mention of the place in Anglo-Saxon records is in the
Chronicle in a.d. 901, where it is recorded, that on the death of Alfred and
the succession of Edward the Elder, Æthelwold, his uncle’s son, seized the
vill at “Winburne and that at Tweoxneam,” but on Edward’s marching to
Badbury, and threatening an attack on Winburne, now Wimborne, he fled
into the North. This statement is repeated by Florence of Worcester, with
Page 467
the additional information that Tweoxneam was a royal vill. The place,
under its better-known name of Twyneham, occurs in a charter by
Athelstan, dated April 23rd, 939, in which, among other lands, he, the “king
wielding all Britain,” gives to God and St. Mary, to St. Michael, St.
Sampson, and St. Branwaladre, lands on Avene at Twynham. The character
of a royal vill was long sustained, and from Domesday it appears that it had
belonged to the Confessor and did then belong to King William. Long
before that time, however, a religious house had been founded there, and the
canons of Tuinham, or of the Holy Trinity of Thuinam, appear in the Survey
as tenants-in-chief. The foundation was probably an early one. Twynburn,
or Winburn, on the same Stour a few miles higher up, was founded before
705, and Wareham before 876. In the Confessor’s time, there were twenty-
four canons and a dean; and in the reign of Rufus, the latter post was filled
by Ralf Flambard, who is said to have rebuilt the college, which was
practically re-founded by Richard de Redvers, Earl of Devon, in the reign
of Henry I., and whose son, Earl Baldwin, obtained the conversion of the
seculars into regular canons of the order of St. Augustin. The mill is
recorded in Domesday. In all these transactions there is no mention of the
castle.
under its better-known name of Twyneham, occurs in a charter by
Athelstan, dated April 23rd, 939, in which, among other lands, he, the “king
wielding all Britain,” gives to God and St. Mary, to St. Michael, St.
Sampson, and St. Branwaladre, lands on Avene at Twynham. The character
of a royal vill was long sustained, and from Domesday it appears that it had
belonged to the Confessor and did then belong to King William. Long
before that time, however, a religious house had been founded there, and the
canons of Tuinham, or of the Holy Trinity of Thuinam, appear in the Survey
as tenants-in-chief. The foundation was probably an early one. Twynburn,
or Winburn, on the same Stour a few miles higher up, was founded before
705, and Wareham before 876. In the Confessor’s time, there were twenty-
four canons and a dean; and in the reign of Rufus, the latter post was filled
by Ralf Flambard, who is said to have rebuilt the college, which was
practically re-founded by Richard de Redvers, Earl of Devon, in the reign
of Henry I., and whose son, Earl Baldwin, obtained the conversion of the
seculars into regular canons of the order of St. Augustin. The mill is
recorded in Domesday. In all these transactions there is no mention of the
castle.
Page 468
A BURH AND KEEP
B HALL-HOUSE
THE CASTLE OF CHRISTCHURCH.
The castle, however, though possibly not a structure in regular masonry
until a century later than the Conquest, was certainly a burh long before that
event, and probably at least as early as the ninth century, preceding, no
doubt, and being the cause of, the vill, or collection of houses. It stands
upon the right or west bank of the Avon river, immediately below the
ancient bridge which carries the high road across it. Its eastern front stands
about 16 yards from the river, and rises out of, and forms, the bank of the
Mill Leat, which intervenes between the castle and the Avon. The leat
commences about three quarters of a mile higher up, and terminates at the
ancient Priory Mill, now called “Place Mill,” 500 yards lower down, where,
B HALL-HOUSE
THE CASTLE OF CHRISTCHURCH.
The castle, however, though possibly not a structure in regular masonry
until a century later than the Conquest, was certainly a burh long before that
event, and probably at least as early as the ninth century, preceding, no
doubt, and being the cause of, the vill, or collection of houses. It stands
upon the right or west bank of the Avon river, immediately below the
ancient bridge which carries the high road across it. Its eastern front stands
about 16 yards from the river, and rises out of, and forms, the bank of the
Mill Leat, which intervenes between the castle and the Avon. The leat
commences about three quarters of a mile higher up, and terminates at the
ancient Priory Mill, now called “Place Mill,” 500 yards lower down, where,
Page 469
having started from the Avon, it falls into the Stour. As there seems to have
been but one mill, it is to be supposed that the lay and spiritual lords were in
accord upon the very interesting topic of multures. At any rate, it lay with
the former to cut off the supply of water.
The area of the castle was roughly rectangular, about 110 yards north and
south, or parallel to the river, and 150 yards east and west,—dimensions
which include the ditch, now filled up, but of which there are indications,
with a breadth of 20 yards, along the north and west fronts, now Castle and
Church streets. The line of the ditch along the south, or Priory, side is not
traceable. The old Priory wall is wanting there, and the ground has been
levelled and cultivated as a garden for above a century. Probably the ditch
communicated at each end with the mill-stream, and was filled from it,
involving at the deepest part not above 12 feet to 15 feet of excavation. No
doubt there was a bank within the ditch, thrown up from it, and which has
since been employed to fill it up. On the water front no earthworks were
necessary. The leat is 25 feet broad, and the river expands suddenly below
the bridge to 130 feet in width.
In the highest and north-western quarter of the space thus enclosed is the
burh, attributed by Norden, with great probability, to Edward the Elder,
after the suppression of the rebellion of Æthelwald in 901. This is an oblong
mound, wholly artificial, and composed of chalk-gravel. It measures about
160 feet north and south by 150 feet east and west, and has a table summit
about 120 feet by 90 feet; it is about 20 feet high. This mound and base
court, with the circumscribing bank and ditch, and the watercourse, with, no
doubt, a strong palisade, formed the original fortress, which, side by side
with the Priory, afforded to the contiguous town temporal and spiritual
protection. Here, upon the old site, Richard de Redvers, having before
obtained a grant of the manor from Henry I., erected a castle such as was
then in use. He walled in the area, placing probably his curtain along the
crest of the bank and upon the edge of the mill leat. His keep he built upon
the mound, and the hall and domestic buildings upon the line of the wall,
along the edge of the water. He is said also to have walled the town. The
masonry remaining is but scanty and confined to some fragments of the
keep and the hall-house, both of which appear to be original.
The keep is peculiar both in position and in its details. It is, or has been,
rectangular, and it stands upon the summit of the mound. It is very unusual,
been but one mill, it is to be supposed that the lay and spiritual lords were in
accord upon the very interesting topic of multures. At any rate, it lay with
the former to cut off the supply of water.
The area of the castle was roughly rectangular, about 110 yards north and
south, or parallel to the river, and 150 yards east and west,—dimensions
which include the ditch, now filled up, but of which there are indications,
with a breadth of 20 yards, along the north and west fronts, now Castle and
Church streets. The line of the ditch along the south, or Priory, side is not
traceable. The old Priory wall is wanting there, and the ground has been
levelled and cultivated as a garden for above a century. Probably the ditch
communicated at each end with the mill-stream, and was filled from it,
involving at the deepest part not above 12 feet to 15 feet of excavation. No
doubt there was a bank within the ditch, thrown up from it, and which has
since been employed to fill it up. On the water front no earthworks were
necessary. The leat is 25 feet broad, and the river expands suddenly below
the bridge to 130 feet in width.
In the highest and north-western quarter of the space thus enclosed is the
burh, attributed by Norden, with great probability, to Edward the Elder,
after the suppression of the rebellion of Æthelwald in 901. This is an oblong
mound, wholly artificial, and composed of chalk-gravel. It measures about
160 feet north and south by 150 feet east and west, and has a table summit
about 120 feet by 90 feet; it is about 20 feet high. This mound and base
court, with the circumscribing bank and ditch, and the watercourse, with, no
doubt, a strong palisade, formed the original fortress, which, side by side
with the Priory, afforded to the contiguous town temporal and spiritual
protection. Here, upon the old site, Richard de Redvers, having before
obtained a grant of the manor from Henry I., erected a castle such as was
then in use. He walled in the area, placing probably his curtain along the
crest of the bank and upon the edge of the mill leat. His keep he built upon
the mound, and the hall and domestic buildings upon the line of the wall,
along the edge of the water. He is said also to have walled the town. The
masonry remaining is but scanty and confined to some fragments of the
keep and the hall-house, both of which appear to be original.
The keep is peculiar both in position and in its details. It is, or has been,
rectangular, and it stands upon the summit of the mound. It is very unusual,
Page 470
for obvious reasons, to find rectangular keeps placed upon artificial
earthworks. At Guildford, where this appears to be the case, it is only
partially so, the tower being built on the slope of the mound so that at least
one half of it descends to the solid. It is, no doubt, possible that here, the
mound being of but moderate height, the foundations may be laid below it;
but more probably this is not the case, and the engineer trusted, and
securely, to the immense breadth of his masonry to spread the weight and
thus avoid unequal settlement. Usually, when keeps are erected on artificial
mounds, they are of the shell type, as at Arundel.
This keep is also peculiar in its details. It was a rectangular tower, 50 feet
north and south by 46 feet east and west. Its walls were fully 11 feet thick.
There are no traces of pilasters, and the angles are chamfered off, the face
of the chamfer being about 6 feet. At present only the east and west sides
are standing, to a height of nearly 30 feet, and it is difficult to make out
from them what were the arrangements of the building. In the west wall is
one opening; on the east are two, flat-sided, 8 feet wide, about 18 feet high,
and descending to the ground-level. They are closed above by very flat
segmental arches—in fact, plat-bands—relieved by obtusely-pointed, if not
round-headed, arches of construction in the work immediately above such
details, so far as they can be seen or inferred. The low and large openings,
the chamfered angles, and the absence of pilasters are utterly unlike what is
usual in a Norman keep; though, from the great mass and general figure of
the building, it can scarcely be other than Norman. Mitford, in
Northumberland, though differing in detail from the present tower, differs
quite as much from the ordinary type, and that certainly is of Norman date.
The work of this keep is a sort of coarse ashlar, rough, but of good quality.
Perhaps more details might be discovered but for a thick drapery of ivy,
which, in this stage of its decay, serves to protect the building.
The hall, called the Constable’s House, is a rectangular building, 80 feet
north and south by 35 feet east and west, placed on the margin of the leat,
and rising out of it, so that its broadside forms a part of the outer line of
defence towards the east. At present it is detached and stands alone, but it
probably ranged with the curtain wall, of which, however, there are now no
traces. There seems to have been a building connected with its south-west
angle.
earthworks. At Guildford, where this appears to be the case, it is only
partially so, the tower being built on the slope of the mound so that at least
one half of it descends to the solid. It is, no doubt, possible that here, the
mound being of but moderate height, the foundations may be laid below it;
but more probably this is not the case, and the engineer trusted, and
securely, to the immense breadth of his masonry to spread the weight and
thus avoid unequal settlement. Usually, when keeps are erected on artificial
mounds, they are of the shell type, as at Arundel.
This keep is also peculiar in its details. It was a rectangular tower, 50 feet
north and south by 46 feet east and west. Its walls were fully 11 feet thick.
There are no traces of pilasters, and the angles are chamfered off, the face
of the chamfer being about 6 feet. At present only the east and west sides
are standing, to a height of nearly 30 feet, and it is difficult to make out
from them what were the arrangements of the building. In the west wall is
one opening; on the east are two, flat-sided, 8 feet wide, about 18 feet high,
and descending to the ground-level. They are closed above by very flat
segmental arches—in fact, plat-bands—relieved by obtusely-pointed, if not
round-headed, arches of construction in the work immediately above such
details, so far as they can be seen or inferred. The low and large openings,
the chamfered angles, and the absence of pilasters are utterly unlike what is
usual in a Norman keep; though, from the great mass and general figure of
the building, it can scarcely be other than Norman. Mitford, in
Northumberland, though differing in detail from the present tower, differs
quite as much from the ordinary type, and that certainly is of Norman date.
The work of this keep is a sort of coarse ashlar, rough, but of good quality.
Perhaps more details might be discovered but for a thick drapery of ivy,
which, in this stage of its decay, serves to protect the building.
The hall, called the Constable’s House, is a rectangular building, 80 feet
north and south by 35 feet east and west, placed on the margin of the leat,
and rising out of it, so that its broadside forms a part of the outer line of
defence towards the east. At present it is detached and stands alone, but it
probably ranged with the curtain wall, of which, however, there are now no
traces. There seems to have been a building connected with its south-west
angle.
Page 471
The building was composed of a basement and a first floor. At each end
was a high-pitched gable, of which the southern only remains. The walls are
5 feet thick, and the interior dimensions therefore 70 feet by 25 feet. The
basement is at the ground level and about 1 foot above the top water of the
leat, the height of which is regulated by hatches. The entrance from the
castle was in the west side, 16 feet from the north end. The doorway, of 5
feet opening, seems to have had a segmental head, but the ashlar has been
roughly removed. In the two ends were loops: that to the south has long
been closed. In the east side, towards its north end, are two loops. All these
loops are mere rectangular slits, evidently intended for air, not defence.
Each is placed in a splayed recess, 4 feet 6 inches wide, with a segmental
head. Also in the east wall, 4 feet from the south end, is a similar recess,
opening into a small door, which led into the garderobe turret. Next, north
of this, 12 feet from the south end, is a door opening on the water, 7 feet
wide, with a very flat arch, evidently original. The jambs are of ashlar, and
they have capitals of a peculiar character. This was evidently the watergate
for the admission of stores from the river, here a few yards beyond the leat
and a few feet below it. The garderobe turret is a projection, 12 feet square,
from the east wall at its south end, standing in the leat, and pierced below
by a round-headed arch, or culvert, 4 feet broad, through which the water
flows freely, and into which the garderobes discharged. This basement was
evidently a store. It is said to have been crossed by a wall. Of this there is
now no trace.
The first floor contained the hall, which occupied its whole area. The
main entrance was at the south end, near the south-west corner, by a
segmental-headed door; in the north wall is a window of two coupled lights,
each under a segmental head, with exterior drips, and the whole placed
within an exterior round-headed recess, the sides of which contain flanking
shafts, nooked. Above, not quite over the centre, is a corbel carved as a
human head. The arch-head and tympanum are highly enriched with
varieties of the chevron moulding, and upon the chamfers of the lesser drips
are rosettes carved with great delicacy. Though heavily draped in ivy,
enough is seen of this window to show that it is late Norman, and of great
beauty. There are windows similar in type, but less rich in ornament, in the
side walls, two in each, and probably there were three, indicated by notches
in the ivy. In the east wall, 20 feet from the north end, are the remains of a
large fireplace, of which the convex back and the upper part of the circular
was a high-pitched gable, of which the southern only remains. The walls are
5 feet thick, and the interior dimensions therefore 70 feet by 25 feet. The
basement is at the ground level and about 1 foot above the top water of the
leat, the height of which is regulated by hatches. The entrance from the
castle was in the west side, 16 feet from the north end. The doorway, of 5
feet opening, seems to have had a segmental head, but the ashlar has been
roughly removed. In the two ends were loops: that to the south has long
been closed. In the east side, towards its north end, are two loops. All these
loops are mere rectangular slits, evidently intended for air, not defence.
Each is placed in a splayed recess, 4 feet 6 inches wide, with a segmental
head. Also in the east wall, 4 feet from the south end, is a similar recess,
opening into a small door, which led into the garderobe turret. Next, north
of this, 12 feet from the south end, is a door opening on the water, 7 feet
wide, with a very flat arch, evidently original. The jambs are of ashlar, and
they have capitals of a peculiar character. This was evidently the watergate
for the admission of stores from the river, here a few yards beyond the leat
and a few feet below it. The garderobe turret is a projection, 12 feet square,
from the east wall at its south end, standing in the leat, and pierced below
by a round-headed arch, or culvert, 4 feet broad, through which the water
flows freely, and into which the garderobes discharged. This basement was
evidently a store. It is said to have been crossed by a wall. Of this there is
now no trace.
The first floor contained the hall, which occupied its whole area. The
main entrance was at the south end, near the south-west corner, by a
segmental-headed door; in the north wall is a window of two coupled lights,
each under a segmental head, with exterior drips, and the whole placed
within an exterior round-headed recess, the sides of which contain flanking
shafts, nooked. Above, not quite over the centre, is a corbel carved as a
human head. The arch-head and tympanum are highly enriched with
varieties of the chevron moulding, and upon the chamfers of the lesser drips
are rosettes carved with great delicacy. Though heavily draped in ivy,
enough is seen of this window to show that it is late Norman, and of great
beauty. There are windows similar in type, but less rich in ornament, in the
side walls, two in each, and probably there were three, indicated by notches
in the ivy. In the east wall, 20 feet from the north end, are the remains of a
large fireplace, of which the convex back and the upper part of the circular
Page 472
tunnel remain, and above is a tall cylindrical chimney-shaft, probably
original. A door from the south end of this wall led into the garderobe turret,
which had a loop to the east. There is also a round-headed window in the
south gable, which opened into the roof. There was no vaulting; the floor
and roof were of timber, the latter open.
The view in Grose, taken in 1783, shows the garderobe turret to the full
height of the side wall, and the great chimney-shaft unincumbered with ivy.
It also shows the north-east angle unbroken, within which was then
contained a well-stair. This angle has now fallen away or been removed,
and its broken parts are so encumbered with ivy and rubbish that nothing
has been ascertained as to what may remain; but no doubt the staircase
ascended from the basement to the main floor and thence to the roof or to
the ramparts of the curtain. In Grose’s time, the north wall was encumbered
by a cottage and some chimneys and other additions in brick; these have
now been removed. The garderobe turret was wilfully pulled down when
the castle changed hands towards the end of the last century. There is a
letter in the Gentleman’s Magazine complaining of this, and which possibly
put a stop to further injuries.
It is remarkable that a building closely resembling this is found at
Desmond’s Castle, at Adare, near Limerick. That castle is late Norman, with
a rectangular keep, though not on a mound, as the ground is naturally high;
and just below the keep, upon the bank of the river, is placed the hall-house.
It has a basement on the ground level, evidently a store, with a separate
entrance, and above is the hall, with a boarded floor and open roof. The
garderobe turret is built out into the stream, has a culvert below, and is
nearly perfect. The keep, hall-house, and gate-house are there preserved,
and if, as is probable, the entrance at Christchurch was near the river at the
foot of the bridge, the relative position of the buildings would be the same.
An excellent plan of Desmond’s Castle will be found, with much else of a
valuable character, in Lord Dunraven’s “Memorials of Adare.”
Christchurch Castle has not been the scene of any remarkable event, nor
does its name occur with any prominence in the history of the country, or
even of the county. The manor was first alienated from the Crown by Henry
I. in favour of Richard de Redvers, whom he created Earl of Devon. In the
“Monasticon” (vi., 304) is printed a grant or confirmation by this earl to the
canons of Christchurch of the “Terram usque in aquam de havene, quæ est
original. A door from the south end of this wall led into the garderobe turret,
which had a loop to the east. There is also a round-headed window in the
south gable, which opened into the roof. There was no vaulting; the floor
and roof were of timber, the latter open.
The view in Grose, taken in 1783, shows the garderobe turret to the full
height of the side wall, and the great chimney-shaft unincumbered with ivy.
It also shows the north-east angle unbroken, within which was then
contained a well-stair. This angle has now fallen away or been removed,
and its broken parts are so encumbered with ivy and rubbish that nothing
has been ascertained as to what may remain; but no doubt the staircase
ascended from the basement to the main floor and thence to the roof or to
the ramparts of the curtain. In Grose’s time, the north wall was encumbered
by a cottage and some chimneys and other additions in brick; these have
now been removed. The garderobe turret was wilfully pulled down when
the castle changed hands towards the end of the last century. There is a
letter in the Gentleman’s Magazine complaining of this, and which possibly
put a stop to further injuries.
It is remarkable that a building closely resembling this is found at
Desmond’s Castle, at Adare, near Limerick. That castle is late Norman, with
a rectangular keep, though not on a mound, as the ground is naturally high;
and just below the keep, upon the bank of the river, is placed the hall-house.
It has a basement on the ground level, evidently a store, with a separate
entrance, and above is the hall, with a boarded floor and open roof. The
garderobe turret is built out into the stream, has a culvert below, and is
nearly perfect. The keep, hall-house, and gate-house are there preserved,
and if, as is probable, the entrance at Christchurch was near the river at the
foot of the bridge, the relative position of the buildings would be the same.
An excellent plan of Desmond’s Castle will be found, with much else of a
valuable character, in Lord Dunraven’s “Memorials of Adare.”
Christchurch Castle has not been the scene of any remarkable event, nor
does its name occur with any prominence in the history of the country, or
even of the county. The manor was first alienated from the Crown by Henry
I. in favour of Richard de Redvers, whom he created Earl of Devon. In the
“Monasticon” (vi., 304) is printed a grant or confirmation by this earl to the
canons of Christchurch of the “Terram usque in aquam de havene, quæ est
Page 473
inter cimeterium et fossatum castelli, messuagium supra ipsius castelli
fossatum, quod habent ex dono Gamelini.” This is the first mention of the
castle, and would make it earlier than 1137, in which year Earl Richard
died. As the masonry of the castle looks twenty or thirty years later, the
allusion may be to the earthworks, or older castle; and the present building
may be the work of Baldwin, the second earl, who granted a charter to the
same effect with that of his father, confirming lands between the churchyard
and the ditch of the castle (ibid., vi., 303). Earl Baldwin died 1155. In the
rolls of Parliament, mention is made of John Randolph, a former justice, as
having been warder of the castle in the time of Henry I. Baldwin’s son and
successor was Earl Richard, who confirmed his gifts, and died 8 Henry II.,
1161, leaving Baldwin, the fourth earl, who died childless, and was
succeeded by his brother Richard, fifth earl, who also died childless. The
heir was William, called De Vernon, sixth earl, brother of Richard, the third
earl, and uncle to the two last earls. He flourished during the reigns of
Richard I. and John. Probably during these transitions the Crown stepped in
as custos, for in a plea before the Curia Regis, in 1194, a certain Roger
Waspail affirms that seizin of certain lands was given to him by Earl John
“in werra sua dum fuit in Castello de Cristescherche.” A little later, when
Earl William was in possession, the king (2 John) confirmed a settlement
made by William de Vernon, Earl of Devon, by which Plympton Castle, the
caput of that honour, was to pass to his elder daughter, and Christchurch
and the Isle of Wight to Joan, the younger. John was at Christchurch, either
the priory or the castle, December 13, 1201. Probably this deed was drawn
up before the birth of Baldwin, the earl’s son, or when it was supposed that
Baldwin would die childless. As it was, it did not take effect, for though
Baldwin died before his father, he left a son, Baldwin, seventh earl, who
was also Earl of the Isle of Wight.
In 1210, 11 John, the king was again at Christchurch, on his way from
Clarendon to Canford. Baldwin died 1245, leaving a son, another Baldwin,
eighth and last earl of the House of Redvers. He died 47 Henry III., 1262–3,
and is described as Baldwin de Lisle, Earl of Devon, and he died seized of
the manor of Christchurch. It appears from the “Testa de Nevile” that he
held that manor “de veteri feoffamento,” by what service is not recorded.
The earl’s heir was his sister Isabel, who married William de Fortibus,
Earl of Albermarle, who died in 1260. Isabel succeeded to the whole estate,
fossatum, quod habent ex dono Gamelini.” This is the first mention of the
castle, and would make it earlier than 1137, in which year Earl Richard
died. As the masonry of the castle looks twenty or thirty years later, the
allusion may be to the earthworks, or older castle; and the present building
may be the work of Baldwin, the second earl, who granted a charter to the
same effect with that of his father, confirming lands between the churchyard
and the ditch of the castle (ibid., vi., 303). Earl Baldwin died 1155. In the
rolls of Parliament, mention is made of John Randolph, a former justice, as
having been warder of the castle in the time of Henry I. Baldwin’s son and
successor was Earl Richard, who confirmed his gifts, and died 8 Henry II.,
1161, leaving Baldwin, the fourth earl, who died childless, and was
succeeded by his brother Richard, fifth earl, who also died childless. The
heir was William, called De Vernon, sixth earl, brother of Richard, the third
earl, and uncle to the two last earls. He flourished during the reigns of
Richard I. and John. Probably during these transitions the Crown stepped in
as custos, for in a plea before the Curia Regis, in 1194, a certain Roger
Waspail affirms that seizin of certain lands was given to him by Earl John
“in werra sua dum fuit in Castello de Cristescherche.” A little later, when
Earl William was in possession, the king (2 John) confirmed a settlement
made by William de Vernon, Earl of Devon, by which Plympton Castle, the
caput of that honour, was to pass to his elder daughter, and Christchurch
and the Isle of Wight to Joan, the younger. John was at Christchurch, either
the priory or the castle, December 13, 1201. Probably this deed was drawn
up before the birth of Baldwin, the earl’s son, or when it was supposed that
Baldwin would die childless. As it was, it did not take effect, for though
Baldwin died before his father, he left a son, Baldwin, seventh earl, who
was also Earl of the Isle of Wight.
In 1210, 11 John, the king was again at Christchurch, on his way from
Clarendon to Canford. Baldwin died 1245, leaving a son, another Baldwin,
eighth and last earl of the House of Redvers. He died 47 Henry III., 1262–3,
and is described as Baldwin de Lisle, Earl of Devon, and he died seized of
the manor of Christchurch. It appears from the “Testa de Nevile” that he
held that manor “de veteri feoffamento,” by what service is not recorded.
The earl’s heir was his sister Isabel, who married William de Fortibus,
Earl of Albermarle, who died in 1260. Isabel succeeded to the whole estate,
Page 474
with the reversion of Christchurch, which was held in dower by Countess
Margaret. Countess Isabel died before 1269, leaving one child, Aveline,
who married Edmund Crouchback, son of Henry III. She died childless,
having inherited Christchurch on the death of the Countess Margaret in 20
Edward I., in which year she also died, having granted or bequeathed
Christchurch and some other parts of the earldom to the king, by whom, in
1299, 27 Edward I., the “Castrum de Cristeschurche de Twynham cum
burgo et Manerio de Westovre et Hundredo de Cristeschurche” were
assigned as part of the dower of Queen Margaret. These possessions, as part
of the earldom of Devon, were claimed, in 1315, 8 & 9 Edward II., by Hugh
de Courtenay, as heir-general of Countess Isabel, but without success. The
castle descended to Edward III., who placed Thomas West in it as custos.
In his third year, the king granted to Sir William de Montacute,
afterwards Earl of Salisbury, the castle and borough of Christchurch-
Twynam, the Manor of Westovre, and the Hundred of Christchurch. The
earl died so seized, and his will is dated at Christchurch-Twynam, 20th
April, 1397. With the exception of a short forfeiture by Earl John to Henry
IV., the castle remained in the Montacutes until Earl Thomas, who died in 7
Henry V., and left it to his daughter and heiress, Alice, who married Richard
Nevile. Probably it was regarded as a male fief, for in 32 Henry VI. was a
grant of a lease for twelve years of the manor, borough, and hundred, to
Richard, Earl of Salisbury, in right of the Lady Alice, his wife, at the rent of
a red rose. The leasehold appears to have been extended, and eventually
converted into a freehold, as the Christchurch estates were held by the son
of Richard and Alice, the king-maker Warwick, and descended to his elder
daughter and co-heir, Isabel, who married George, Duke of Clarence. Their
son, Edward, Earl of Warwick, held Christchurch till his forfeiture and
death, after which (5 Henry VIII.) his estates and the title of Salisbury were
allowed to his sister Margaret, executed 1541, and who at her death or
forfeiture held the manor, castle, borough, and hundred of Christchurch,
which then escheated to the Crown. It is by descent from Countess
Margaret, through her granddaughter Catherine Pole, that the inheritors of
the Hastings baronies are now claiming the chantry erected for their
Plantagenet ancestress in the priory church. They, no doubt, are the heirs-
general; the heir male is the Earl of Huntingdon.
Margaret. Countess Isabel died before 1269, leaving one child, Aveline,
who married Edmund Crouchback, son of Henry III. She died childless,
having inherited Christchurch on the death of the Countess Margaret in 20
Edward I., in which year she also died, having granted or bequeathed
Christchurch and some other parts of the earldom to the king, by whom, in
1299, 27 Edward I., the “Castrum de Cristeschurche de Twynham cum
burgo et Manerio de Westovre et Hundredo de Cristeschurche” were
assigned as part of the dower of Queen Margaret. These possessions, as part
of the earldom of Devon, were claimed, in 1315, 8 & 9 Edward II., by Hugh
de Courtenay, as heir-general of Countess Isabel, but without success. The
castle descended to Edward III., who placed Thomas West in it as custos.
In his third year, the king granted to Sir William de Montacute,
afterwards Earl of Salisbury, the castle and borough of Christchurch-
Twynam, the Manor of Westovre, and the Hundred of Christchurch. The
earl died so seized, and his will is dated at Christchurch-Twynam, 20th
April, 1397. With the exception of a short forfeiture by Earl John to Henry
IV., the castle remained in the Montacutes until Earl Thomas, who died in 7
Henry V., and left it to his daughter and heiress, Alice, who married Richard
Nevile. Probably it was regarded as a male fief, for in 32 Henry VI. was a
grant of a lease for twelve years of the manor, borough, and hundred, to
Richard, Earl of Salisbury, in right of the Lady Alice, his wife, at the rent of
a red rose. The leasehold appears to have been extended, and eventually
converted into a freehold, as the Christchurch estates were held by the son
of Richard and Alice, the king-maker Warwick, and descended to his elder
daughter and co-heir, Isabel, who married George, Duke of Clarence. Their
son, Edward, Earl of Warwick, held Christchurch till his forfeiture and
death, after which (5 Henry VIII.) his estates and the title of Salisbury were
allowed to his sister Margaret, executed 1541, and who at her death or
forfeiture held the manor, castle, borough, and hundred of Christchurch,
which then escheated to the Crown. It is by descent from Countess
Margaret, through her granddaughter Catherine Pole, that the inheritors of
the Hastings baronies are now claiming the chantry erected for their
Plantagenet ancestress in the priory church. They, no doubt, are the heirs-
general; the heir male is the Earl of Huntingdon.
Page 475
From Henry to James, Christchurch remained in the Crown. The latter
sovereign granted it to trustees for the benefit of Prince Charles, whence it
passed by sale through various hands, and finally was purchased by Sir
George Rose in 1790. It is now the property of Lord Strathnairn.
The Priory buildings stood to the south of the church, and but scanty
traces of them remain. There are considerable fragments of the containing
wall to the south and east, and the fragments of two mural towers and the
gateway. On the low ground on the Stour to the south-west, on the edge of
the wet land called “QUOMPS,” are traces of a large fish-pond. Beyond the
mill are the “convent meadows.” On the corbel shields terminating the drip-
stone of the west door of the tower, are, dexter, what appears to be a “cross
patonce” for de Fortibus; and, sinister, Montacute quartering Monthermer.
sovereign granted it to trustees for the benefit of Prince Charles, whence it
passed by sale through various hands, and finally was purchased by Sir
George Rose in 1790. It is now the property of Lord Strathnairn.
The Priory buildings stood to the south of the church, and but scanty
traces of them remain. There are considerable fragments of the containing
wall to the south and east, and the fragments of two mural towers and the
gateway. On the low ground on the Stour to the south-west, on the edge of
the wet land called “QUOMPS,” are traces of a large fish-pond. Beyond the
mill are the “convent meadows.” On the corbel shields terminating the drip-
stone of the west door of the tower, are, dexter, what appears to be a “cross
patonce” for de Fortibus; and, sinister, Montacute quartering Monthermer.
Page 476
CLIFFORD CASTLE, HEREFORDSHIRE.
CLIFFORD CASTLE is the most westward of the fortresses by which the
line of the Wye is protected in its passage across the county of Hereford,
and which appear to have been constructed, some long before, some shortly
before, and others shortly after, the Norman Conquest, for the defence of
that fertile acquisition against the ever-aggressive Welsh of Brecknock and
Radnor.
As early as the first quarter of the ninth century, the Saxons, under
Egbert, had reduced Wales to a nominal subjection. And that great prince,
having conquered Mercia, and exercising power over all England, is not
unlikely to have strengthened the Mercian frontier and the Saxon
acquisitions generally on the Welsh side; and to this period may be due, not
improbably, such earthworks as those at Cardiff, Caerleon, Shrewsbury, Old
Radnor, and Builth, and, now partially destroyed, at Hereford, and wholly
so at Worcester: earthworks which, in their main features, resemble those
thrown up early in the tenth century at Tutbury, Tamworth, and Leicester by
Eadward the elder and his sister, Æthelflæd.
But, whatever may then have been done, it is very certain that during the
reign of the Confessor several of his Norman favourites settled in England,
and that, among them, Richard Fitz-Scrob had lands in the north of
Herefordshire, and there set up and gave name to Richard’s Castle. As this
castle was a great cause of offence, it probably was something different
from the fortified timber houses of the English Thanes, and may well have
been of stone, after the rising Norman fashion. It was certainly a place of
considerable strength, and was useful during the invasion of Prince Griffith,
in 1052. The fashion, probably, did not extend among the English, for when
the same prince invaded Archenfield, and burned Hereford city, in 1055, he
entered, apparently without much difficulty, the strong place, or Gaer, by
which it was defended, and of which no doubt the banks and ditches, yet
remaining, and the mound, known to have been removed, were parts.
Harold retook and fortified the city in 1056.
CLIFFORD CASTLE is the most westward of the fortresses by which the
line of the Wye is protected in its passage across the county of Hereford,
and which appear to have been constructed, some long before, some shortly
before, and others shortly after, the Norman Conquest, for the defence of
that fertile acquisition against the ever-aggressive Welsh of Brecknock and
Radnor.
As early as the first quarter of the ninth century, the Saxons, under
Egbert, had reduced Wales to a nominal subjection. And that great prince,
having conquered Mercia, and exercising power over all England, is not
unlikely to have strengthened the Mercian frontier and the Saxon
acquisitions generally on the Welsh side; and to this period may be due, not
improbably, such earthworks as those at Cardiff, Caerleon, Shrewsbury, Old
Radnor, and Builth, and, now partially destroyed, at Hereford, and wholly
so at Worcester: earthworks which, in their main features, resemble those
thrown up early in the tenth century at Tutbury, Tamworth, and Leicester by
Eadward the elder and his sister, Æthelflæd.
But, whatever may then have been done, it is very certain that during the
reign of the Confessor several of his Norman favourites settled in England,
and that, among them, Richard Fitz-Scrob had lands in the north of
Herefordshire, and there set up and gave name to Richard’s Castle. As this
castle was a great cause of offence, it probably was something different
from the fortified timber houses of the English Thanes, and may well have
been of stone, after the rising Norman fashion. It was certainly a place of
considerable strength, and was useful during the invasion of Prince Griffith,
in 1052. The fashion, probably, did not extend among the English, for when
the same prince invaded Archenfield, and burned Hereford city, in 1055, he
entered, apparently without much difficulty, the strong place, or Gaer, by
which it was defended, and of which no doubt the banks and ditches, yet
remaining, and the mound, known to have been removed, were parts.
Harold retook and fortified the city in 1056.
Page 477
Herefordshire was at that time, and long afterwards, one of the most
valuable and most threatened of the English acquisitions on the Welsh
border. Before the Norman Conquest, it was under the vigorous sway of
Earl Harold, who beat back the Welsh from Rhuddlan to Gloucester and
Chepstow, although he was unable to prevent Caradoc ap Griffith from
destroying the hunting-seat in course of construction for the Confessor at
Portskewet. That Harold encouraged fortified places on these marches is
pretty certain, seeing that of the small number of castles recorded in the
Domesday Survey no less than ten are named as standing in the marches of
Monmouth and Hereford: namely, Wigmore, Clifford, and Chepstow, of
which Wigmore is reputed one of the oldest Honours in the kingdom;
Monmouth; Ewyas, founded before the Conquest, and repaired before
Domesday, by Alured de Marleburgh; Avretone; Caerleon, famous for its
Roman walls and its mount; Ferrars Castle; Herdeslie; Waterleye. These and
several others not mentioned in the Survey, but existing at the time, were
strengthened and held by the Norman invaders.
Clifford Castle stands on the right bank of the Wye, at the bottom of one
of those short, sharp bends so frequent along the course of this river, and
which add so much to its beauty. It crowns a red sandstone cliff about 150
feet above the stream, and close to it. The scarp, naturally steep, has been
recently made steeper by art, to allow of the passage of the Brecon and
Hereford Railway between the castle and the river. The cliff is part of a
knoll of high ground, about half a mile long, and cut by the long-continued
action of the river into a semilunar figure. The highest part of this knoll is
converted into a narrow tongue by a broad and deep ravine, which descends
from the north nearly parallel to the Wye, and terminates in the river bank.
A long, tapering ridge is thus isolated between the ravine and the river, and
upon this stands the fortress. The ravine bounds the ridge on the south and
east, and a natural depression of no great depth crosses the latter at the
broad north end. The intermediate part is traversed by two artificial cross
ditches, which run from the river to the ravine, about 100 feet deep, but still
considerably above the level of either.
The central and highest part thus isolated contains the inner ward; south
of this a very small but strong division constitutes the outwork; and on the
north is the lower but broader expanse of the outer ward, the three being
thus in a line.
valuable and most threatened of the English acquisitions on the Welsh
border. Before the Norman Conquest, it was under the vigorous sway of
Earl Harold, who beat back the Welsh from Rhuddlan to Gloucester and
Chepstow, although he was unable to prevent Caradoc ap Griffith from
destroying the hunting-seat in course of construction for the Confessor at
Portskewet. That Harold encouraged fortified places on these marches is
pretty certain, seeing that of the small number of castles recorded in the
Domesday Survey no less than ten are named as standing in the marches of
Monmouth and Hereford: namely, Wigmore, Clifford, and Chepstow, of
which Wigmore is reputed one of the oldest Honours in the kingdom;
Monmouth; Ewyas, founded before the Conquest, and repaired before
Domesday, by Alured de Marleburgh; Avretone; Caerleon, famous for its
Roman walls and its mount; Ferrars Castle; Herdeslie; Waterleye. These and
several others not mentioned in the Survey, but existing at the time, were
strengthened and held by the Norman invaders.
Clifford Castle stands on the right bank of the Wye, at the bottom of one
of those short, sharp bends so frequent along the course of this river, and
which add so much to its beauty. It crowns a red sandstone cliff about 150
feet above the stream, and close to it. The scarp, naturally steep, has been
recently made steeper by art, to allow of the passage of the Brecon and
Hereford Railway between the castle and the river. The cliff is part of a
knoll of high ground, about half a mile long, and cut by the long-continued
action of the river into a semilunar figure. The highest part of this knoll is
converted into a narrow tongue by a broad and deep ravine, which descends
from the north nearly parallel to the Wye, and terminates in the river bank.
A long, tapering ridge is thus isolated between the ravine and the river, and
upon this stands the fortress. The ravine bounds the ridge on the south and
east, and a natural depression of no great depth crosses the latter at the
broad north end. The intermediate part is traversed by two artificial cross
ditches, which run from the river to the ravine, about 100 feet deep, but still
considerably above the level of either.
The central and highest part thus isolated contains the inner ward; south
of this a very small but strong division constitutes the outwork; and on the
north is the lower but broader expanse of the outer ward, the three being
thus in a line.
Page 478
The inner ward, of which alone any buildings remain, is roughly
quadrangular, about 100 feet square. Along the west or river front are the
hall and withdrawing-room. On the south front is a half-round tower and a
curtain. The east, or ravine, side is destroyed to the ground level, as is
nearly all the north end, in which was the gate-house. The hall, 20 feet by
40 feet, was on the first floor. There was a store or cellar under it, of which
the east and south walls are gone. Its entrance, and any light it may have
had, were probably given on the court or east side. The hall had a timber
floor. It was lighted by three windows in the west or river wall. Of these,
the recess of one remains, with a rather low, pointed arch. A door in the
north wall led into the withdrawing-room, and one at the south end into the
mural tower. The east and south walls are gone. The withdrawing-room
occupied the curved angle of the ward between the hall and the gate-house;
beneath it was a ground-floor. The south end of the hall, like the west side,
was an outer curtain. It abutted against a half-round tower, 30 feet diameter,
with walls 9 feet thick, and a gorge wall, 5 feet thick, flush with the inner
face of the curtain. This tower seems to have had an under ground-floor,
now filled up. The basement has a door from the court, in the gorge; another
door on the west side, probably a postern, and two loops with wide
recesses, opening towards the field. The upper floor also had two loops to
the field, a window in the gorge, and on each side a door, one leading
obliquely into the hall, and the other into a mural chamber within the
curtain, and containing a garderobe, double. The floors were of timber.
There is no staircase nor fireplace.
The curtain breaks off towards the south-east angle, where it seems to
have expanded and probably abutted against a tower. In it is a mural
chamber, a garderobe, single, on the first floor level, and which evidently
opened from the destroyed tower. The two garderobes mentioned open by
oblique shoots in the wall, about 5 feet from the ground, without any
projection. As the whole east or ravine front is gone, it is difficult to say
whether there were towers at the south-east and north-east angles; probably
there were, and round ones. In the north front are two circular depressions,
evidently the place of the two towers of the gate-house, and between them
is the entrance. This leads from the outer ward, and crossed the ditch upon a
causeway of earth, about 6 feet broad at the top, and the ascent up which
from the counterscarp of the ditch to the portal is very steep. The causeway
appears to be original, and has been pitched with stones on edge. At the end
quadrangular, about 100 feet square. Along the west or river front are the
hall and withdrawing-room. On the south front is a half-round tower and a
curtain. The east, or ravine, side is destroyed to the ground level, as is
nearly all the north end, in which was the gate-house. The hall, 20 feet by
40 feet, was on the first floor. There was a store or cellar under it, of which
the east and south walls are gone. Its entrance, and any light it may have
had, were probably given on the court or east side. The hall had a timber
floor. It was lighted by three windows in the west or river wall. Of these,
the recess of one remains, with a rather low, pointed arch. A door in the
north wall led into the withdrawing-room, and one at the south end into the
mural tower. The east and south walls are gone. The withdrawing-room
occupied the curved angle of the ward between the hall and the gate-house;
beneath it was a ground-floor. The south end of the hall, like the west side,
was an outer curtain. It abutted against a half-round tower, 30 feet diameter,
with walls 9 feet thick, and a gorge wall, 5 feet thick, flush with the inner
face of the curtain. This tower seems to have had an under ground-floor,
now filled up. The basement has a door from the court, in the gorge; another
door on the west side, probably a postern, and two loops with wide
recesses, opening towards the field. The upper floor also had two loops to
the field, a window in the gorge, and on each side a door, one leading
obliquely into the hall, and the other into a mural chamber within the
curtain, and containing a garderobe, double. The floors were of timber.
There is no staircase nor fireplace.
The curtain breaks off towards the south-east angle, where it seems to
have expanded and probably abutted against a tower. In it is a mural
chamber, a garderobe, single, on the first floor level, and which evidently
opened from the destroyed tower. The two garderobes mentioned open by
oblique shoots in the wall, about 5 feet from the ground, without any
projection. As the whole east or ravine front is gone, it is difficult to say
whether there were towers at the south-east and north-east angles; probably
there were, and round ones. In the north front are two circular depressions,
evidently the place of the two towers of the gate-house, and between them
is the entrance. This leads from the outer ward, and crossed the ditch upon a
causeway of earth, about 6 feet broad at the top, and the ascent up which
from the counterscarp of the ditch to the portal is very steep. The causeway
appears to be original, and has been pitched with stones on edge. At the end
Page 479
of this ditch, where it opened on the river bank, it is crossed by a curtain, 6
feet thick, intended to prevent enemies from crawling up the river bank and
surprising the adjacent gateway. This curtain is now about 6 feet high, and
probably was 25 feet or 30 feet.
The outwork, south of the inner ward, and divided from it by a very
narrow but deep ditch, is not easily to be explained. It is the extremity of the
ridge, of a triangular figure, 60 feet on a side, and level, showing no trace of
earthwork or masonry of any kind. The three scarps are very steep indeed,
and quite sharp and clean cut, the soft rock being covered with excellent
firm turf. This outwork is so dangerously near to the inner ward, and at so
high a level, that it must have been occupied, probably by a stockade or
timber structure. It is a very curious work.
The outer ward, at the north end or root of the ridge, is 60 feet or 70 feet
lower, and much broader than the inner ward. Its defence on the south is the
cross ditch, over which passes the causeway to the inner ward; on the west
is the river-cliff, 80 feet to 90 feet high; and on the east and north a steep
scarp, partly of red rock, partly rivetted in masonry, and from 10 feet to 20
feet deep. Beyond it is the upper part of the ravine, and the natural
depression connecting the ravine with the river bank. This ward is
something between a square and a circle, and about 300 feet in diameter. It
has evidently been defended by a curtain, probably a low one, on the east
and south, or exposed, sides, and the ground, usually level, rises in a sort of
ramp to what appears to be the remains of the wall. This ramp is wanting on
the river and south faces, which, being covered by the river and the river
ward, were probably palisaded only. About the centre of the east front is a
low mound, apparently the foundations of a round mural tower.
The depressed ground in the centre of the south front indicates that the
outer entrance was there; and midway between this and the causeway,
leading to the inner ward, are two long heaps of earth and stone with a
passage between them. They much resemble the remains of a long gate-
house, between the outer and inner gate; but if so, this must have been in
the middle of a wall dividing the outer ward into two, of which no trace
remains.
This outer ward, never very strong, was evidently intended for the
reception of villagers and cattle during the inroads of the Welsh. The
feet thick, intended to prevent enemies from crawling up the river bank and
surprising the adjacent gateway. This curtain is now about 6 feet high, and
probably was 25 feet or 30 feet.
The outwork, south of the inner ward, and divided from it by a very
narrow but deep ditch, is not easily to be explained. It is the extremity of the
ridge, of a triangular figure, 60 feet on a side, and level, showing no trace of
earthwork or masonry of any kind. The three scarps are very steep indeed,
and quite sharp and clean cut, the soft rock being covered with excellent
firm turf. This outwork is so dangerously near to the inner ward, and at so
high a level, that it must have been occupied, probably by a stockade or
timber structure. It is a very curious work.
The outer ward, at the north end or root of the ridge, is 60 feet or 70 feet
lower, and much broader than the inner ward. Its defence on the south is the
cross ditch, over which passes the causeway to the inner ward; on the west
is the river-cliff, 80 feet to 90 feet high; and on the east and north a steep
scarp, partly of red rock, partly rivetted in masonry, and from 10 feet to 20
feet deep. Beyond it is the upper part of the ravine, and the natural
depression connecting the ravine with the river bank. This ward is
something between a square and a circle, and about 300 feet in diameter. It
has evidently been defended by a curtain, probably a low one, on the east
and south, or exposed, sides, and the ground, usually level, rises in a sort of
ramp to what appears to be the remains of the wall. This ramp is wanting on
the river and south faces, which, being covered by the river and the river
ward, were probably palisaded only. About the centre of the east front is a
low mound, apparently the foundations of a round mural tower.
The depressed ground in the centre of the south front indicates that the
outer entrance was there; and midway between this and the causeway,
leading to the inner ward, are two long heaps of earth and stone with a
passage between them. They much resemble the remains of a long gate-
house, between the outer and inner gate; but if so, this must have been in
the middle of a wall dividing the outer ward into two, of which no trace
remains.
This outer ward, never very strong, was evidently intended for the
reception of villagers and cattle during the inroads of the Welsh. The
Page 480
earthworks, though deeper and broader than the Normans usually gave to so
small a fortress, have nothing of the character of British or Saxon work, and
are probably not older than the Conquest, or the reign preceding it. But of
the existing masonry none can be safely called Norman. The walls are of
inferior and rudely-coursed rubble; no ashlar remains, save a bold cordon or
bead, which runs along the top of the lower or battering part of the wall, and
this is not carried all round. The arches of the mural tower are flat-pointed.
On the whole, the general appearance of the buildings points to the reign of
Henry III., and none of it seems of older date. Certainly no decidedly
Norman work is seen.
The ditches were substantially dry, though they may have received and
retained more or less land-water.
At the base of the slope of the outwork the ravine has been deepened for
a rectangular pond, probably a fish-stew, and an early drawing shows water
here collected.
Looking from the inner ward upon the river, there is plainly seen, just
above the castle, the line of the old mill leat, now a green ditch, and the
small eyot upon which must have stood the castle mill. A ripple on the river,
here somewhat expanded, shows a ford; and opposite, on the edge of a
broad expanse of low, level mead, is the village of Cabalva, said in Welsh to
mean a horse-ford. Thus is seen at one view the cliff and the ford which,
under the Saxon sway, gave its appellation to the parish, and from which
one of the most celebrated of the great English families derived its name.
Clifford, though the cradle of a great race, could have been valuable only
while Herefordshire was an unsafe possession. With the settlement of the
country under Edward I., it probably fell into disuse and decay. It is far too
small and too inconvenient of access to be held, except for safety; and such
history as it has is confined to a very early and warlike period.
The castle is reputed with Striguil or Chepstow, Ewyas, and Wigmore, to
have been founded by William Fitz-Osborn, one of the companions of the
Conqueror, and the first Norman Earl of Herefordshire. He was killed in
1070, and his third son, Roger de Bretuil, who succeeded to his English
lands, had forfeited them before the Domesday Survey, when the castle was
held by Ralph de Toni, who, by Dugdale, is said to have married Alicia, one
small a fortress, have nothing of the character of British or Saxon work, and
are probably not older than the Conquest, or the reign preceding it. But of
the existing masonry none can be safely called Norman. The walls are of
inferior and rudely-coursed rubble; no ashlar remains, save a bold cordon or
bead, which runs along the top of the lower or battering part of the wall, and
this is not carried all round. The arches of the mural tower are flat-pointed.
On the whole, the general appearance of the buildings points to the reign of
Henry III., and none of it seems of older date. Certainly no decidedly
Norman work is seen.
The ditches were substantially dry, though they may have received and
retained more or less land-water.
At the base of the slope of the outwork the ravine has been deepened for
a rectangular pond, probably a fish-stew, and an early drawing shows water
here collected.
Looking from the inner ward upon the river, there is plainly seen, just
above the castle, the line of the old mill leat, now a green ditch, and the
small eyot upon which must have stood the castle mill. A ripple on the river,
here somewhat expanded, shows a ford; and opposite, on the edge of a
broad expanse of low, level mead, is the village of Cabalva, said in Welsh to
mean a horse-ford. Thus is seen at one view the cliff and the ford which,
under the Saxon sway, gave its appellation to the parish, and from which
one of the most celebrated of the great English families derived its name.
Clifford, though the cradle of a great race, could have been valuable only
while Herefordshire was an unsafe possession. With the settlement of the
country under Edward I., it probably fell into disuse and decay. It is far too
small and too inconvenient of access to be held, except for safety; and such
history as it has is confined to a very early and warlike period.
The castle is reputed with Striguil or Chepstow, Ewyas, and Wigmore, to
have been founded by William Fitz-Osborn, one of the companions of the
Conqueror, and the first Norman Earl of Herefordshire. He was killed in
1070, and his third son, Roger de Bretuil, who succeeded to his English
lands, had forfeited them before the Domesday Survey, when the castle was
held by Ralph de Toni, who, by Dugdale, is said to have married Alicia, one
Page 481
of Roger’s daughters. However this may have been, he possessed Clifford
Castle at the time of the Survey, and died 1102.
How the castle passed from De Toni is unknown, but here Simon, son of
Richard FitzPons, was seated, and founded a priory, and he and his brother
Richard are said by Dugdale to have adopted the surname of Clifford.
Walter de Clifford, son of Richard, was a great Marcher Baron, and living
in 1165. His son, Walter the second, was a still more powerful Baron. He
died 1222, having married Margaret, daughter of Llewelyn, Prince of
Wales, and was father of a third Walter, and of Roger, ancestor of the great
house of Clifford, Earls of Cumberland. He may well have been the builder
of the existing castle.
Walter, who died 1263, closed the elder line. Maud, his heiress, is said to
have married, first William de Longspée, Earl of Salisbury, and, second,
John Giffard, of Brimmesfield, who held, probably during her life, Brunless
Castle, the manor of Glasbury, and the manor and castle of Clifford, being
seized of them at his death, 27 Edward I. Maud’s daughter by Longspée
married Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, and probably upon her mother’s
death she obtained her heritage, for in the inquisition held upon De Lacy
and his wife, 4 Edward II., the manor and castle of Clifford are included.
The castle had probably now ceased to be of importance, for it does not
again occur in the inquisitions. It is not usually regarded as having been the
caput of an Honour; but Giffard’s inquisition mentions its tenants by
knights’ service, and John de Solars, 4 Edward II., holds Paunteleye manor
of the “Honour of Clifford,” in the county of Gloucester, which in those
days was not always distinguished from other parts of the march.
The Church of Clifford throws no light upon the architecture or owners
of the castle. The tower, of considerable size and solid aspect, may be
moderately old, but the rest of the building has been rebuilt in the
churchwarden manner prevalent in 1836, the roofs, however, having been
preserved. Also, from the old building, are preserved a good coffin-lid cross
in a circle, placed most unwisely as a cill to the north door; a font, or rather
the octagonal bowl of one, probably of Decorated date; and in the chancel,
loose on a shelf, a very fine life-sized effigy of an ecclesiastic, robed and
tonsured, boldly designed and excellently executed in wood, and which
deserves better care.
Castle at the time of the Survey, and died 1102.
How the castle passed from De Toni is unknown, but here Simon, son of
Richard FitzPons, was seated, and founded a priory, and he and his brother
Richard are said by Dugdale to have adopted the surname of Clifford.
Walter de Clifford, son of Richard, was a great Marcher Baron, and living
in 1165. His son, Walter the second, was a still more powerful Baron. He
died 1222, having married Margaret, daughter of Llewelyn, Prince of
Wales, and was father of a third Walter, and of Roger, ancestor of the great
house of Clifford, Earls of Cumberland. He may well have been the builder
of the existing castle.
Walter, who died 1263, closed the elder line. Maud, his heiress, is said to
have married, first William de Longspée, Earl of Salisbury, and, second,
John Giffard, of Brimmesfield, who held, probably during her life, Brunless
Castle, the manor of Glasbury, and the manor and castle of Clifford, being
seized of them at his death, 27 Edward I. Maud’s daughter by Longspée
married Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, and probably upon her mother’s
death she obtained her heritage, for in the inquisition held upon De Lacy
and his wife, 4 Edward II., the manor and castle of Clifford are included.
The castle had probably now ceased to be of importance, for it does not
again occur in the inquisitions. It is not usually regarded as having been the
caput of an Honour; but Giffard’s inquisition mentions its tenants by
knights’ service, and John de Solars, 4 Edward II., holds Paunteleye manor
of the “Honour of Clifford,” in the county of Gloucester, which in those
days was not always distinguished from other parts of the march.
The Church of Clifford throws no light upon the architecture or owners
of the castle. The tower, of considerable size and solid aspect, may be
moderately old, but the rest of the building has been rebuilt in the
churchwarden manner prevalent in 1836, the roofs, however, having been
preserved. Also, from the old building, are preserved a good coffin-lid cross
in a circle, placed most unwisely as a cill to the north door; a font, or rather
the octagonal bowl of one, probably of Decorated date; and in the chancel,
loose on a shelf, a very fine life-sized effigy of an ecclesiastic, robed and
tonsured, boldly designed and excellently executed in wood, and which
deserves better care.
Page 482
Page 483
THE KEEP OF CLITHEROE, LANCASHIRE.
THE castle of Clitheroe, the chief seat of an ancient and extensive honour,
though one of the smallest, is perhaps the strongest, the oldest, and from its
position one of the most remarkable, of the fortresses of Lancashire. It is
placed upon the left, or eastern, bank of the Ribble, here the boundary
between Yorkshire and Lancashire, three quarters of a mile from the stream,
and about 130 feet above it. It occupies the summit and upper part of a
limestone crag, which, precipitous in parts, and very steep on its northern
flank, falls, according to the dip of the rock, less steeply towards the south
or south-west. Hence, the northern point was selected for the keep and
upper ward, and for the lower ward and approaches the shoulder and slopes
upon the south. The Roman way from Manchester, by Skipton to York,
ascends the dale about half a mile east of the rock, which could scarcely
have been neglected as a military post by any people who held the district
in other than very peaceful times. The town of Clitheroe has sprung up at
the foot of the rock upon the north-east.
THE castle of Clitheroe, the chief seat of an ancient and extensive honour,
though one of the smallest, is perhaps the strongest, the oldest, and from its
position one of the most remarkable, of the fortresses of Lancashire. It is
placed upon the left, or eastern, bank of the Ribble, here the boundary
between Yorkshire and Lancashire, three quarters of a mile from the stream,
and about 130 feet above it. It occupies the summit and upper part of a
limestone crag, which, precipitous in parts, and very steep on its northern
flank, falls, according to the dip of the rock, less steeply towards the south
or south-west. Hence, the northern point was selected for the keep and
upper ward, and for the lower ward and approaches the shoulder and slopes
upon the south. The Roman way from Manchester, by Skipton to York,
ascends the dale about half a mile east of the rock, which could scarcely
have been neglected as a military post by any people who held the district
in other than very peaceful times. The town of Clitheroe has sprung up at
the foot of the rock upon the north-east.
Page 484
The keep stands within, but close to the east side of, a small rounded area
of about 80 feet by 90 feet, contained within a curtain wall, which skirts the
edge of the rock. This curtain is 6 feet thick, 12 feet high inside, and from
14 feet to 20 feet outside. The circuit, which has, no doubt, been complete,
is broken for about 70 feet on the southern side. This is the breadth of the
neck by which the upper ward was united to the lower, and the curtain at
each end of the gap is extended southwards and south-eastwards down the
steep to include the latter. Thus, what is wanting is none of the exterior
curtain, only the interior and cross wall between the two wards. The open
of about 80 feet by 90 feet, contained within a curtain wall, which skirts the
edge of the rock. This curtain is 6 feet thick, 12 feet high inside, and from
14 feet to 20 feet outside. The circuit, which has, no doubt, been complete,
is broken for about 70 feet on the southern side. This is the breadth of the
neck by which the upper ward was united to the lower, and the curtain at
each end of the gap is extended southwards and south-eastwards down the
steep to include the latter. Thus, what is wanting is none of the exterior
curtain, only the interior and cross wall between the two wards. The open
Page 485
space is a steep of rugged, broken rock. Probably there was a cross wall and
doorway above, and a narrow flight of steps leading to it from below.
The keep is of rough rubble masonry, with ashlar quoins and dressings. It
has neither plinth, set-off, nor string, and preserves its exterior dimensions
to the summit. Each angle is capped by two pilasters of 9 feet breadth by 11
inches projection. They unite at the angles, which are solid. The two
doorway above, and a narrow flight of steps leading to it from below.
The keep is of rough rubble masonry, with ashlar quoins and dressings. It
has neither plinth, set-off, nor string, and preserves its exterior dimensions
to the summit. Each angle is capped by two pilasters of 9 feet breadth by 11
inches projection. They unite at the angles, which are solid. The two
Page 486
southern angles are supported by extravagantly-large low buttresses, of
modern addition, but it is said they were preceded by buttresses somewhat
similar, though of much slighter character.
The keep is 33 feet square and about 43 feet high. The walls are 8 feet
thick at the base, and consequently enclose a chamber 17 feet square. This
is the basement floor, and at the ground level. It is 9 feet high, and the floor,
which covered it above, and is now gone, rested upon nine beams, and was
therefore immensely strong. The north, south, and west walls are each
pierced by a loop, set in a round-headed recess, 5 feet broad and 5 feet high
to the springing. Two of these loops have been converted into open
breaches, and the third, to the north, has been walled up and the recess
covered with a flat lintel. This floor must have been entered from the room
above by a trap and ladder. It was, as usual, a store, the value of these
strong small towers depending upon their being well provisioned.
The first floor rested upon a set-off of a foot, and is therefore 19 feet
square, with walls 7 feet thick. It is 23 feet high. It has in the north and
south walls small square-headed loops, placed in round-headed recesses of
4 feet 6 inches opening. In its west side, close to the north end, is a doorway
2 feet 10 inches broad and 8 feet high, round-headed. In the north wall, on
each side the loop, is a door. One of these, flat-topped, of 2 feet 6 inches
opening and 6 feet high, leads through a small mural lobby, 4 feet 8 inches
by 3 feet 2 inches, into a well-stair, 7 feet diameter, which occupies the
north-east angle, and commencing at this level, ascends to the battlements
by fifty-four steps. The other door, of 2 feet 11 inches opening, 8 feet high,
and round-headed, leads by a passage bent at a right angle and having a
barrel vault, into a plain mural chamber, 7 feet by 5 feet, also barrel-vaulted,
and which, no doubt, had a loop in its west wall. This wall, however, is now
broken away, so that the chamber has much the aspect of an entrance-lobby,
which it certainly was not.
The second, or uppermost, floor rests upon a set-off of 2 feet, and is
therefore 23 feet square, with walls 5 feet thick, and at present 11 feet high.
Singularly enough, it shows no trace of any wall-opening whatever, as
though it had been added in modern times for effect only, which, however,
does not appear to be the case. The staircase, however, has certainly been
repaired, and no doubt originally opened into this floor. The wall at the
interior angle is thickened somewhat to give space for the stair. The walls
modern addition, but it is said they were preceded by buttresses somewhat
similar, though of much slighter character.
The keep is 33 feet square and about 43 feet high. The walls are 8 feet
thick at the base, and consequently enclose a chamber 17 feet square. This
is the basement floor, and at the ground level. It is 9 feet high, and the floor,
which covered it above, and is now gone, rested upon nine beams, and was
therefore immensely strong. The north, south, and west walls are each
pierced by a loop, set in a round-headed recess, 5 feet broad and 5 feet high
to the springing. Two of these loops have been converted into open
breaches, and the third, to the north, has been walled up and the recess
covered with a flat lintel. This floor must have been entered from the room
above by a trap and ladder. It was, as usual, a store, the value of these
strong small towers depending upon their being well provisioned.
The first floor rested upon a set-off of a foot, and is therefore 19 feet
square, with walls 7 feet thick. It is 23 feet high. It has in the north and
south walls small square-headed loops, placed in round-headed recesses of
4 feet 6 inches opening. In its west side, close to the north end, is a doorway
2 feet 10 inches broad and 8 feet high, round-headed. In the north wall, on
each side the loop, is a door. One of these, flat-topped, of 2 feet 6 inches
opening and 6 feet high, leads through a small mural lobby, 4 feet 8 inches
by 3 feet 2 inches, into a well-stair, 7 feet diameter, which occupies the
north-east angle, and commencing at this level, ascends to the battlements
by fifty-four steps. The other door, of 2 feet 11 inches opening, 8 feet high,
and round-headed, leads by a passage bent at a right angle and having a
barrel vault, into a plain mural chamber, 7 feet by 5 feet, also barrel-vaulted,
and which, no doubt, had a loop in its west wall. This wall, however, is now
broken away, so that the chamber has much the aspect of an entrance-lobby,
which it certainly was not.
The second, or uppermost, floor rests upon a set-off of 2 feet, and is
therefore 23 feet square, with walls 5 feet thick, and at present 11 feet high.
Singularly enough, it shows no trace of any wall-opening whatever, as
though it had been added in modern times for effect only, which, however,
does not appear to be the case. The staircase, however, has certainly been
repaired, and no doubt originally opened into this floor. The wall at the
interior angle is thickened somewhat to give space for the stair. The walls
Page 487
may have been a foot or so higher, but scarcely more. The parapet is gone,
and was probably another 5 feet. The north-east angle seems to have ended
in a small square turret.
The principal entrance was evidently on the first floor, in the east wall,
reached by an external stair built against the wall, and ascending from the
south end. This is clear from the position and dimensions of the doorway,
and from the absence of a loop on this side of the basement, where it would
have been covered by the staircase.
The small door of the west wall of the same floor seems to have led upon
the rampart of the adjacent curtain, here only 11 feet from the keep. There is
such a door at Arques and at Rochester, and also at Helmsley and Adare.
This keep contains no fireplace nor garderobe, nor ornament of any kind.
The lower ward has been so altered for domestic purposes, and is so built
over, as to be very obscure. It was at least eight or ten times the area of the
upper ward, and descended 280 feet down the slope, with an extreme
breadth of 150 feet. The modern dwelling-house is built upon the south-east
curtain, and no doubt represents, and probably contains, part of the old
domestic buildings. Buck gives a view of the southern front of this ward,
and shows a large round tower upon one of the angles not now seen.
A convenient ascent skirts the foot of the west curtain, or rather of the
cliff upon which it stands, and enters at the upper end of the lower ward,
just below the keep. This, however, is probably modern. The old way seems
to be represented by the road from the town, which rises on the other or
eastern side.
About a furlong to the south of, and much below the castle is a steep
straight bank of earth with an exterior ditch, probably an outwork covering
the foot of the hill.
The castle is the property of the Duke of Buccleuch, whose steward for
the Honour of Clitheroe resides here, and allows visitors to enter the keep
unchallenged. The chief rents and royalties of the Honour are vested in the
Duke, and are said to be valuable. All is neatly kept, and is in as substantial
repair as becomes a ruin; but his Grace’s most commendable zeal does
certainly a little obscure the fabric it preserves, and it is to be regretted that
the new work was not made more clearly distinguishable from the old.
and was probably another 5 feet. The north-east angle seems to have ended
in a small square turret.
The principal entrance was evidently on the first floor, in the east wall,
reached by an external stair built against the wall, and ascending from the
south end. This is clear from the position and dimensions of the doorway,
and from the absence of a loop on this side of the basement, where it would
have been covered by the staircase.
The small door of the west wall of the same floor seems to have led upon
the rampart of the adjacent curtain, here only 11 feet from the keep. There is
such a door at Arques and at Rochester, and also at Helmsley and Adare.
This keep contains no fireplace nor garderobe, nor ornament of any kind.
The lower ward has been so altered for domestic purposes, and is so built
over, as to be very obscure. It was at least eight or ten times the area of the
upper ward, and descended 280 feet down the slope, with an extreme
breadth of 150 feet. The modern dwelling-house is built upon the south-east
curtain, and no doubt represents, and probably contains, part of the old
domestic buildings. Buck gives a view of the southern front of this ward,
and shows a large round tower upon one of the angles not now seen.
A convenient ascent skirts the foot of the west curtain, or rather of the
cliff upon which it stands, and enters at the upper end of the lower ward,
just below the keep. This, however, is probably modern. The old way seems
to be represented by the road from the town, which rises on the other or
eastern side.
About a furlong to the south of, and much below the castle is a steep
straight bank of earth with an exterior ditch, probably an outwork covering
the foot of the hill.
The castle is the property of the Duke of Buccleuch, whose steward for
the Honour of Clitheroe resides here, and allows visitors to enter the keep
unchallenged. The chief rents and royalties of the Honour are vested in the
Duke, and are said to be valuable. All is neatly kept, and is in as substantial
repair as becomes a ruin; but his Grace’s most commendable zeal does
certainly a little obscure the fabric it preserves, and it is to be regretted that
the new work was not made more clearly distinguishable from the old.
Page 488
The name of Clitheroe, though evidently old, and said in part to be
British, does not occur in Domesday. Whittaker is of opinion that the place
is included in Bernulfeswic, now Burnoldswick, a parish about six miles
north-east of the castle, and that it is referred to as the Castelry of Roger of
Pictavensis or of Poictou. It is stated that “in Bernulfeswic Garnel held
twelve carucates, paying geld to Berenger de Todeni. The manor is in the
Castelry of Roger the Poitevin.” Usually Roger is identified with the Castle
of Lancaster, but at that time Lancaster Castle was not built, and that
lordship did not belong to Roger. Roger was a large tenant in chief in the
shires of Chester, Derby, Notts, and Lincoln. In Yorkshire and Lancashire
he then held but little. The mesne lord, De Todeni, was one of the family
who had Belvoir; Dugdale says, the son of Robert de Todeni, who built it.
He does not again appear in connexion with this part of England.
Roger is thought to have granted the fee to Roger de Buisli, from whom,
or from Albert Greslei, it came to the De Lacys of Pontefract, lords of
Blackburnshire, of whom Robert de Lacy is said to have held it under De
Buisli. This De Lacy, whose history belongs to Pontefract, is the reputed
founder of Clitheroe keep in the reign of Henry I., and certainly the building
is not of later date. From that time Clitheroe shared with Pontefract the
honour of being the seat of the De Lacy power, and so remained until their
estates merged in the earldom and duchy of Lancaster, and this again in the
Crown. The founder probably also endowed the chapel of St. Michael
within the castle, probably in the lower ward, and which is mentioned in the
reign of Henry I. A claim, however, to represent this chapel is set up for the
parish church, though this building could never have been within the castle.
Clitheroe, like other strong places in Lancashire, was held for the king in
the Parliamentary struggles, and in 1649 the castle was ordered to be
dismantled.
Charles II. granted the castle and honour to General Monk, whose son,
Christopher Duke of Albemarle, left it to his wife, Lady Elizabeth
Cavendish, who again left it to her second husband, Ralph Duke of
Montague, from whom it has descended to the present owner.
British, does not occur in Domesday. Whittaker is of opinion that the place
is included in Bernulfeswic, now Burnoldswick, a parish about six miles
north-east of the castle, and that it is referred to as the Castelry of Roger of
Pictavensis or of Poictou. It is stated that “in Bernulfeswic Garnel held
twelve carucates, paying geld to Berenger de Todeni. The manor is in the
Castelry of Roger the Poitevin.” Usually Roger is identified with the Castle
of Lancaster, but at that time Lancaster Castle was not built, and that
lordship did not belong to Roger. Roger was a large tenant in chief in the
shires of Chester, Derby, Notts, and Lincoln. In Yorkshire and Lancashire
he then held but little. The mesne lord, De Todeni, was one of the family
who had Belvoir; Dugdale says, the son of Robert de Todeni, who built it.
He does not again appear in connexion with this part of England.
Roger is thought to have granted the fee to Roger de Buisli, from whom,
or from Albert Greslei, it came to the De Lacys of Pontefract, lords of
Blackburnshire, of whom Robert de Lacy is said to have held it under De
Buisli. This De Lacy, whose history belongs to Pontefract, is the reputed
founder of Clitheroe keep in the reign of Henry I., and certainly the building
is not of later date. From that time Clitheroe shared with Pontefract the
honour of being the seat of the De Lacy power, and so remained until their
estates merged in the earldom and duchy of Lancaster, and this again in the
Crown. The founder probably also endowed the chapel of St. Michael
within the castle, probably in the lower ward, and which is mentioned in the
reign of Henry I. A claim, however, to represent this chapel is set up for the
parish church, though this building could never have been within the castle.
Clitheroe, like other strong places in Lancashire, was held for the king in
the Parliamentary struggles, and in 1649 the castle was ordered to be
dismantled.
Charles II. granted the castle and honour to General Monk, whose son,
Christopher Duke of Albemarle, left it to his wife, Lady Elizabeth
Cavendish, who again left it to her second husband, Ralph Duke of
Montague, from whom it has descended to the present owner.
Page 489
THE CASTLE AND BARONY OF CLUN, SHROPSHIRE.
THE church, village, and castle of Clun are situated near the centre of a
spacious amphitheatre of lofty but fertile hills, the summits and upper
slopes of which are covered with young and luxuriant plantations, while in
the lower parts are occasionally single trees, chiefly oak, elm, and beech, of
vast size and great age, the reliques of an ancient demesne, and still
standing out and to be distinguished amidst the denizens of the hedgerows,
which, though often of large size, all belong to the period of enclosures and
cultivation. Across this rich and smiling land, amidst hamlets, churches,
manor-places, farmhouses, and cottages, with frequent orchards and
gardens, green pastures and root crops, and waving corn-fields, the river
Clun pursues its sinuous course, giving life and fertility to the scene, which,
indeed, is throughout imbued with an aspect of peace and—perhaps rather
indolent—prosperity.
The ancient forest of Clun covered a large tract of upland, extending,
with a radius of about five miles, to the north and west of the seat of the
barony. Its border is that of the county of Salop, and runs along the elevated
ridge which, from Bishop’s Moat, on the east, to Castell-cefn-fron, on the
west, divides that county from Montgomery, and the water-shed of the Clun
from that of the Hafren or Upper Severn. From this latter river the ridge is
distant about five miles, and the intervening country is mountainous and
broken. The natural division is, in part, strengthened by an artificial work,
known as Saeson bank, and placed considerably to the west of Offa’s Dyke,
which, here very perfect, runs north and south about three miles west of
Clun, and thus bisects the forest and the barony. Which of these earthworks
is the earlier is doubtful, but probably the Dyke. Connected with the Saeson
bank, and at right angles to it, are two short spurs, the age and object of
which are not very evident.
The forest was never very thickly wooded in its upper and more exposed
parts, but that it was always scantily inhabited is evident from the fact that it
contains but one parish church, that of Mainstone, which stands on the very
line of the Dyke, about six miles north of Clun, on the edge of a small
THE church, village, and castle of Clun are situated near the centre of a
spacious amphitheatre of lofty but fertile hills, the summits and upper
slopes of which are covered with young and luxuriant plantations, while in
the lower parts are occasionally single trees, chiefly oak, elm, and beech, of
vast size and great age, the reliques of an ancient demesne, and still
standing out and to be distinguished amidst the denizens of the hedgerows,
which, though often of large size, all belong to the period of enclosures and
cultivation. Across this rich and smiling land, amidst hamlets, churches,
manor-places, farmhouses, and cottages, with frequent orchards and
gardens, green pastures and root crops, and waving corn-fields, the river
Clun pursues its sinuous course, giving life and fertility to the scene, which,
indeed, is throughout imbued with an aspect of peace and—perhaps rather
indolent—prosperity.
The ancient forest of Clun covered a large tract of upland, extending,
with a radius of about five miles, to the north and west of the seat of the
barony. Its border is that of the county of Salop, and runs along the elevated
ridge which, from Bishop’s Moat, on the east, to Castell-cefn-fron, on the
west, divides that county from Montgomery, and the water-shed of the Clun
from that of the Hafren or Upper Severn. From this latter river the ridge is
distant about five miles, and the intervening country is mountainous and
broken. The natural division is, in part, strengthened by an artificial work,
known as Saeson bank, and placed considerably to the west of Offa’s Dyke,
which, here very perfect, runs north and south about three miles west of
Clun, and thus bisects the forest and the barony. Which of these earthworks
is the earlier is doubtful, but probably the Dyke. Connected with the Saeson
bank, and at right angles to it, are two short spurs, the age and object of
which are not very evident.
The forest was never very thickly wooded in its upper and more exposed
parts, but that it was always scantily inhabited is evident from the fact that it
contains but one parish church, that of Mainstone, which stands on the very
line of the Dyke, about six miles north of Clun, on the edge of a small
Page 490
brook—the Ffridd. From its singular position may be drawn the inference
that it is later than the Dyke.
The water-courses of the forest contribute to form four rather
considerable streams, which finally unite to become the river Clun, which
thence descends eastwards down a deep and rather narrow valley, by
Clunton, Clunbury, and Clungunford, to Leintwardine, where, after a course
of about twelve miles, it joins the Teme, the river of Ludlow, and of
Tenbury.
The Barony of Clun, called also the Honour and the Hundred, was more
extensive than the forest, and included lands of a more settled character to
the east and south. Obley, Pentrehodre, Hobendrid, Hobbaris, Larkenhope,
Eileston, and Manulton, were members of the manor of Clun, which was
co-extensive with the Hundred; and in the “Welshery” attached to it were
the hamlets of Aderdely and Bickton, Hodicote, and Newcastle. It appears,
in the twelfth century, to have contained five vills and sub-manors, the
borough town of Clun, and the manor of Tempsett. Clun was also an
ecclesiastical centre. Its noble parish church of St. George was set over the
chapels of St. Thomas of Clun, St. Mary of Waterden, St. Swithun of
Clunbury, St. Mary of Clunton, St. Mary of Opperton, and the chapels of
Edgton and Sibdon. The whole were attached to the great abbey of
Wenlock. Many of these chapelries have become independent parishes, and
the Hundred of Clun has disappeared as a county division, being absorbed
in that of Purslow. In 1837, 8,600 acres of the old forest were enclosed by
Act of Parliament, and in 1869, 1700 more.
About a furlong below the point at which the collective waters from the
forest combine to form the Clun, that stream, there of considerable volume,
makes a sharp and sudden bend, in the hollow of which, upon its left or
convex bank, is placed the castle. The space thus partially enclosed and
protected by the river is about 600 yards in length, and is occupied by a
cluster of knolls or tumps of a soft, friable rock, which has been carved and
scarped for the purposes of defence, so as to present, with its decomposed
and grass-grown surface, much of an artificial aspect. Amongst these knolls
stands out one higher and of even a more artificial appearance than the rest.
It forms a conical mound, about 40 yards in diameter at its table top, with
very steep sides, and in height above its surrounding ditch about 60 feet;
and the ditch, again, is about 30 feet above the bed of the river. The ditch
that it is later than the Dyke.
The water-courses of the forest contribute to form four rather
considerable streams, which finally unite to become the river Clun, which
thence descends eastwards down a deep and rather narrow valley, by
Clunton, Clunbury, and Clungunford, to Leintwardine, where, after a course
of about twelve miles, it joins the Teme, the river of Ludlow, and of
Tenbury.
The Barony of Clun, called also the Honour and the Hundred, was more
extensive than the forest, and included lands of a more settled character to
the east and south. Obley, Pentrehodre, Hobendrid, Hobbaris, Larkenhope,
Eileston, and Manulton, were members of the manor of Clun, which was
co-extensive with the Hundred; and in the “Welshery” attached to it were
the hamlets of Aderdely and Bickton, Hodicote, and Newcastle. It appears,
in the twelfth century, to have contained five vills and sub-manors, the
borough town of Clun, and the manor of Tempsett. Clun was also an
ecclesiastical centre. Its noble parish church of St. George was set over the
chapels of St. Thomas of Clun, St. Mary of Waterden, St. Swithun of
Clunbury, St. Mary of Clunton, St. Mary of Opperton, and the chapels of
Edgton and Sibdon. The whole were attached to the great abbey of
Wenlock. Many of these chapelries have become independent parishes, and
the Hundred of Clun has disappeared as a county division, being absorbed
in that of Purslow. In 1837, 8,600 acres of the old forest were enclosed by
Act of Parliament, and in 1869, 1700 more.
About a furlong below the point at which the collective waters from the
forest combine to form the Clun, that stream, there of considerable volume,
makes a sharp and sudden bend, in the hollow of which, upon its left or
convex bank, is placed the castle. The space thus partially enclosed and
protected by the river is about 600 yards in length, and is occupied by a
cluster of knolls or tumps of a soft, friable rock, which has been carved and
scarped for the purposes of defence, so as to present, with its decomposed
and grass-grown surface, much of an artificial aspect. Amongst these knolls
stands out one higher and of even a more artificial appearance than the rest.
It forms a conical mound, about 40 yards in diameter at its table top, with
very steep sides, and in height above its surrounding ditch about 60 feet;
and the ditch, again, is about 30 feet above the bed of the river. The ditch
Page 491
covers the mound upon its southern and eastern sides, but to the north and
west the slope descends direct to the river level, presenting a very
formidable appearance. The more exposed part is further protected by three
works in earth, beyond the ditch; of which the larger, to the south-west, is of
irregular figure, and about 40 yards deep by 70 yards broad, having four
irregular sides, of which the inner is concave, and forms the counterscarp of
the main ditch. Towards the river this platform is scarped towards the
mound and the adjacent platform; its protection is a ditch, about 7 yards
deep by 16 to 18 yards broad. The top is level, save that along the edges of
the three outer sides is a narrow bank—a sort of parapet, on which was
probably a stockade. At one point, where the platform approaches the
mound, is a small spur, as though the ruin of the pier of a bridge, and which
was evidently the main entrance to the keep or principal mound. The road to
this bridge ascended the platform from the village on the south.
To the east of this is a second platform, of the same height, and about 14
yards deep by 30 yards broad, its larger face being concave, and applied to
the main ditch. Its top is level, and has no trace of bank or parapet.
The third earthwork, of no great size, stands to the east of the keep
mound, and abuts upon its ditch to the west, and on the river to the north.
These two sides are prolonged, and the fork or hollow angle between them
is occupied by a depression, formerly a large pool, having a sluice-gate
towards the river. Between the bank of this pool and the southern platform
is a ditch, which seems to have been used as a hollow way leading to the
river front of the mound.
Between the mound and west platform and the river are two lunated
patches of meadow about 90 yards deep, the one 70 yards and the other 140
yards long; they were probably employed as a safe pasture in ordinary times
for the garrison cattle, which, in case of attack, could readily be taken up
the platforms, or driven along the castle ditches into the precincts of the
town.
Such are the earthworks as they are now seen, and in general features
much, no doubt, as they were seen when the Norman Picot took possession
of his dangerous grant. They belong to the class known as burhs, or moated
mounds, and date from the ninth or tenth century. By whom they were
thrown up, or, rather, carved out, is unknown; but it may safely be asserted
west the slope descends direct to the river level, presenting a very
formidable appearance. The more exposed part is further protected by three
works in earth, beyond the ditch; of which the larger, to the south-west, is of
irregular figure, and about 40 yards deep by 70 yards broad, having four
irregular sides, of which the inner is concave, and forms the counterscarp of
the main ditch. Towards the river this platform is scarped towards the
mound and the adjacent platform; its protection is a ditch, about 7 yards
deep by 16 to 18 yards broad. The top is level, save that along the edges of
the three outer sides is a narrow bank—a sort of parapet, on which was
probably a stockade. At one point, where the platform approaches the
mound, is a small spur, as though the ruin of the pier of a bridge, and which
was evidently the main entrance to the keep or principal mound. The road to
this bridge ascended the platform from the village on the south.
To the east of this is a second platform, of the same height, and about 14
yards deep by 30 yards broad, its larger face being concave, and applied to
the main ditch. Its top is level, and has no trace of bank or parapet.
The third earthwork, of no great size, stands to the east of the keep
mound, and abuts upon its ditch to the west, and on the river to the north.
These two sides are prolonged, and the fork or hollow angle between them
is occupied by a depression, formerly a large pool, having a sluice-gate
towards the river. Between the bank of this pool and the southern platform
is a ditch, which seems to have been used as a hollow way leading to the
river front of the mound.
Between the mound and west platform and the river are two lunated
patches of meadow about 90 yards deep, the one 70 yards and the other 140
yards long; they were probably employed as a safe pasture in ordinary times
for the garrison cattle, which, in case of attack, could readily be taken up
the platforms, or driven along the castle ditches into the precincts of the
town.
Such are the earthworks as they are now seen, and in general features
much, no doubt, as they were seen when the Norman Picot took possession
of his dangerous grant. They belong to the class known as burhs, or moated
mounds, and date from the ninth or tenth century. By whom they were
thrown up, or, rather, carved out, is unknown; but it may safely be asserted
Page 492
that they represent the chief residence of one of those Englishmen who
invaded and settled upon the Welsh territory, and whose duty it was to
defend the western and often-attacked border of the Mercian kingdom. The
occupant of such a position must have been a bold and powerful leader;
though whether he lived before or after the formation of Offa’s Dyke is
doubtful. Possibly a careful examination of the Saeson bank ridge, where it
is crossed by the Dyke, might throw a light upon this point, and the
researches should extend to Crugyn or Castle Hill, on Bishop’s Castle
racecourse, to Bishop’s Moat, Caer-din, Tomen, Castell-cefn-fron or Bryn
Amlwg, and some other camps and tumuli on each side the border. Besides
these are others, both camps and tumuli, and a remarkable upright stone or
maenhir within the forest, all, no doubt, of British date. It must be borne in
mind that Clun, though an exposed part of the Mercian territory, was
covered to the north-west and north by the English settlements along the
Upper Severn, of which there are ample traces from Kerry to Welshpool, on
both sides of the Dyke. Looking at the extension of the barony of Clun,
westward of the Dyke, to a natural boundary, it seems probable that the
barony was founded when the Dyke was no longer the Mercian border, and
the English had pushed their settlements up the valley of the Severn. This
also would be more consistent with the figure of the earthworks of Clun and
of the adjacent district, which resemble those thrown up by Æthelflæda and
Edward the Elder early in the tenth century, and of which Wigmore is a
recorded example.
invaded and settled upon the Welsh territory, and whose duty it was to
defend the western and often-attacked border of the Mercian kingdom. The
occupant of such a position must have been a bold and powerful leader;
though whether he lived before or after the formation of Offa’s Dyke is
doubtful. Possibly a careful examination of the Saeson bank ridge, where it
is crossed by the Dyke, might throw a light upon this point, and the
researches should extend to Crugyn or Castle Hill, on Bishop’s Castle
racecourse, to Bishop’s Moat, Caer-din, Tomen, Castell-cefn-fron or Bryn
Amlwg, and some other camps and tumuli on each side the border. Besides
these are others, both camps and tumuli, and a remarkable upright stone or
maenhir within the forest, all, no doubt, of British date. It must be borne in
mind that Clun, though an exposed part of the Mercian territory, was
covered to the north-west and north by the English settlements along the
Upper Severn, of which there are ample traces from Kerry to Welshpool, on
both sides of the Dyke. Looking at the extension of the barony of Clun,
westward of the Dyke, to a natural boundary, it seems probable that the
barony was founded when the Dyke was no longer the Mercian border, and
the English had pushed their settlements up the valley of the Severn. This
also would be more consistent with the figure of the earthworks of Clun and
of the adjacent district, which resemble those thrown up by Æthelflæda and
Edward the Elder early in the tenth century, and of which Wigmore is a
recorded example.
Page 493
A. Great Mound. C. Keep. F. The Pool.
B. Little Mound. D. Second Platform. G. Ditches.
E. Third Platform.
THE CASTLE OF CLUN.
The position and estate of Clun, like those of many similar domains in
England and within the Marches, were at once taken possession of by the
Norman followers of the Conqueror, and held by Picot de Say as a military
fief dependent upon Roger de Montgomery at Shrewsbury. Whether De Say
or his immediate successors fortified the mounds with masonry after the
manner then coming into use in Normandy, or whether they contented
themselves with such defences, probably of timber, as they found ready to
hand, is not known, but if they had at once built a keep and walls in the
Norman manner, it is exceedingly improbable that no trace of works usually
so substantial should even now remain, and still more so that they should
have been decayed by the middle of the twelfth century, which is probably
B. Little Mound. D. Second Platform. G. Ditches.
E. Third Platform.
THE CASTLE OF CLUN.
The position and estate of Clun, like those of many similar domains in
England and within the Marches, were at once taken possession of by the
Norman followers of the Conqueror, and held by Picot de Say as a military
fief dependent upon Roger de Montgomery at Shrewsbury. Whether De Say
or his immediate successors fortified the mounds with masonry after the
manner then coming into use in Normandy, or whether they contented
themselves with such defences, probably of timber, as they found ready to
hand, is not known, but if they had at once built a keep and walls in the
Norman manner, it is exceedingly improbable that no trace of works usually
so substantial should even now remain, and still more so that they should
have been decayed by the middle of the twelfth century, which is probably
Page 494
the date of the older part of the masonry now standing, and which it will be
proper next to describe.
The Keep.—This is a large rectangular tower built on the lower edge and
up the eastern slope of the mound, and therein resembling Guildford. Its
dimensions are 42 feet north and south by 68 feet east and west, and the
walls at the base are about 11 feet thick, and rise to about 6 feet at the
summit. It is of three stages; the first resting on the basement, with its sill
about 5 feet below the top level of the mound. The floors are of timber,
resting upon sets-off in the side walls. The whole tower is about 80 feet
high, its base being about 30 feet above the river. The west wall is entirely
gone. The two eastern angles are capped each by two pilasters, 14 feet
broad and 1 foot projection, meeting at a solid angle, and carried up without
break or diminution to the summit, where they may have supported square
turrets. The eastern curtain, between them, has a battering base, and a plain
cordon at the first-floor level. The walls are perfectly plain, of coursed
masonry, the stones probably hammer dressed; but, being of a perishable
character, they are much blistered and decayed. The basement, 40 feet by 45
feet, has a floor about 20 feet above the outer ground level, now covered up
with rubbish. There is a small window to the south, and a small square air-
hole to the north, high up, as from a dungeon. In the same side, near the
middle, is a full-centred doorway, 2 feet 2 inches broad, once closed by a
stout door, and opening upon the slope of the mound. It leads into a passage
3 feet 6 inches broad, which entered the chamber, but had on its left a mural
staircase of sixteen steps, which led to the first floor. Many of the steps
remain, but the inner wall, and most of the hanging arches of the vault, are
gone.
The first floor, 23 feet by 45 feet, had two windows to the south, one to
the east, and to the north two, with a fireplace between them. The windows
are broken into mere apertures, but the recesses are 5 feet to 6 feet broad.
The fireplace has a round back and a vertical tunnel. The hood is broken
away. There are no mural chambers, but outside, on each face of the eastern
angles, are two sham loops.
The second floor has also five windows above, rather larger than those
below, and a fireplace in the same position. In each jamb of the east
window recess is a small door, which, by a passage, leads into a mural
proper next to describe.
The Keep.—This is a large rectangular tower built on the lower edge and
up the eastern slope of the mound, and therein resembling Guildford. Its
dimensions are 42 feet north and south by 68 feet east and west, and the
walls at the base are about 11 feet thick, and rise to about 6 feet at the
summit. It is of three stages; the first resting on the basement, with its sill
about 5 feet below the top level of the mound. The floors are of timber,
resting upon sets-off in the side walls. The whole tower is about 80 feet
high, its base being about 30 feet above the river. The west wall is entirely
gone. The two eastern angles are capped each by two pilasters, 14 feet
broad and 1 foot projection, meeting at a solid angle, and carried up without
break or diminution to the summit, where they may have supported square
turrets. The eastern curtain, between them, has a battering base, and a plain
cordon at the first-floor level. The walls are perfectly plain, of coursed
masonry, the stones probably hammer dressed; but, being of a perishable
character, they are much blistered and decayed. The basement, 40 feet by 45
feet, has a floor about 20 feet above the outer ground level, now covered up
with rubbish. There is a small window to the south, and a small square air-
hole to the north, high up, as from a dungeon. In the same side, near the
middle, is a full-centred doorway, 2 feet 2 inches broad, once closed by a
stout door, and opening upon the slope of the mound. It leads into a passage
3 feet 6 inches broad, which entered the chamber, but had on its left a mural
staircase of sixteen steps, which led to the first floor. Many of the steps
remain, but the inner wall, and most of the hanging arches of the vault, are
gone.
The first floor, 23 feet by 45 feet, had two windows to the south, one to
the east, and to the north two, with a fireplace between them. The windows
are broken into mere apertures, but the recesses are 5 feet to 6 feet broad.
The fireplace has a round back and a vertical tunnel. The hood is broken
away. There are no mural chambers, but outside, on each face of the eastern
angles, are two sham loops.
The second floor has also five windows above, rather larger than those
below, and a fireplace in the same position. In each jamb of the east
window recess is a small door, which, by a passage, leads into a mural
Page 495
chamber in the two eastern angles. Each, on each of its two outer faces, has
a small window.
The third floor has two windows to the north, one to the east, and two to
the south, but here the position of the fireplace is between them. From the
east window recess are two passages, opening into two chambers, each with
two small windows above those of the second floor. The second floor was
the stateroom, and the third apparently bedrooms belonging to it. The
staircase may have been in the west wall. Of the window recesses, some
have arches obtusely pointed, others are segmental. No doubt there was a
door in the west wall, opening from the mound. The recesses of the
windows of the second and third floors had each an ashlar rib, the only sort
of ornament now visible. The keep, though of large size and substantially
built, suffers in appearance from the badness of the material, its rough
workmanship, and the very sparing use of ashlar in its details.
The summit of the mound was encircled by a curtain wall, of which the
upper part of the keep formed a part, so that with the rectangular seems to
have been combined a sort of shell keep, a most unusual arrangement. Of
this shell there remain two fragments; one, a considerable one, towards the
north-west, is composed of two nearly half-round towers, or rather bastions,
with their converse faces outwards, and a short curtain connecting them,
which seems to have been the end of a hall, and to contain some later
insertions. The bastions are, no doubt, later than the keep. The other
fragment is to the south-west, about 12 feet long by 6 feet thick, and 20 feet
high. This also formed part of the general enceinte, but connected with it is
a small circular mound, thrown up on the edge of the greater one, and
wholly artificial. It is about 21 feet across at the top, and 12 feet to 13 feet
high, and possibly carried a small tower; near it a depression seems to
indicate the position of the well. The whole surface of the mound is rough
and scarred, as though the area had been covered with buildings, as at
Tamworth, and of which the foundations had been dug up.
The entrance to the mound could only have been on the western side
ascending from the south-west. All the other sides are absolutely
impracticable, and this has been so cut about that every vestige of a road is
gone. On the platforms are no traces of walls. They may have had
gatehouses of some sort, but the outer defences were probably always of
timber.
a small window.
The third floor has two windows to the north, one to the east, and two to
the south, but here the position of the fireplace is between them. From the
east window recess are two passages, opening into two chambers, each with
two small windows above those of the second floor. The second floor was
the stateroom, and the third apparently bedrooms belonging to it. The
staircase may have been in the west wall. Of the window recesses, some
have arches obtusely pointed, others are segmental. No doubt there was a
door in the west wall, opening from the mound. The recesses of the
windows of the second and third floors had each an ashlar rib, the only sort
of ornament now visible. The keep, though of large size and substantially
built, suffers in appearance from the badness of the material, its rough
workmanship, and the very sparing use of ashlar in its details.
The summit of the mound was encircled by a curtain wall, of which the
upper part of the keep formed a part, so that with the rectangular seems to
have been combined a sort of shell keep, a most unusual arrangement. Of
this shell there remain two fragments; one, a considerable one, towards the
north-west, is composed of two nearly half-round towers, or rather bastions,
with their converse faces outwards, and a short curtain connecting them,
which seems to have been the end of a hall, and to contain some later
insertions. The bastions are, no doubt, later than the keep. The other
fragment is to the south-west, about 12 feet long by 6 feet thick, and 20 feet
high. This also formed part of the general enceinte, but connected with it is
a small circular mound, thrown up on the edge of the greater one, and
wholly artificial. It is about 21 feet across at the top, and 12 feet to 13 feet
high, and possibly carried a small tower; near it a depression seems to
indicate the position of the well. The whole surface of the mound is rough
and scarred, as though the area had been covered with buildings, as at
Tamworth, and of which the foundations had been dug up.
The entrance to the mound could only have been on the western side
ascending from the south-west. All the other sides are absolutely
impracticable, and this has been so cut about that every vestige of a road is
gone. On the platforms are no traces of walls. They may have had
gatehouses of some sort, but the outer defences were probably always of
timber.
Page 496
The greater part of the borough, town, or rather village of Clun, is placed
to the east—that is, in the rear of the castle; but there are houses on both
banks of the river, which is spanned by an ancient bridge of five ribbed
arches, with recesses above over the projecting piers. In this direction, a
furlong from the castle, is the fine and mainly Norman church of St.
George, with a western tower, strong enough to stand a siege, and in pattern
resembling those of More and Hope-Say. About a hundred yards beyond or
south of the church is a very remarkable ravine, natural, but which has, at
that point, been scarped, and the earth thrown inwards to form a bank. This
ravine commences some way above the church, and, becoming deeper and
more steep, conveys a considerable brook into the Clun, a little below the
town. This ravine adds immensely to the strength of the place.
Clun is a borough by prescription, having two bailiffs and a recorder.
Recently it possessed a Hundred court for the recovery of small debts, and a
court leet. The bailiffs also held a civil court. The Fitz-Alan charter,
recognising its prescriptive rights, dates from the reign of Edward II. In the
town is an ancient almshouse, founded by Henry Howard, Earl of
Northampton, in 1614; and below it, upon the river, the traces of a very
considerable millpool, now dry.
Clun is entered in Domesday as held by Picot. Edric had held it. Picot
held large possessions (twenty-seven mansions) in the then Hundred of
Rinlau, besides Conodovre, Basecherc, and Lentevrde, under Earl Roger de
Montgomery. It appears from Mr. Eyton’s researches that Picot was a to-
name, and that the grantee, as Robert de Say, with Adeloya his wife, and
Robert and Henry, his sons, is named in a charter relating to St. Martin of
Seez, of the probable date of 1060, and is there described as “Robertus de
Sai qui cognominabatur Picot.” Sai was a vill near Exmes, the chief seat of
the Norman viscounty of Earl Roger, who was the patron of the house of
Seez.
That which in 1060 was a cognomen, in 1086 had become a nomen. In
1074 Odericus refers to him simply as Picod, one of the five whom Earl
Roger placed over his new earldom of Shrewsbury, and again as Picot de
Sai, when, in 1083, the Earl vowed to found Shrewsbury Abbey. Edric,
Picot’s predecessor at Clun, was, without doubt, the Edric Silvaticus, or the
Wild, so well known on the Welsh marches. Picot lived till about 1098, and
was succeeded by his son, Henry de Say, who flourished in the reign of
to the east—that is, in the rear of the castle; but there are houses on both
banks of the river, which is spanned by an ancient bridge of five ribbed
arches, with recesses above over the projecting piers. In this direction, a
furlong from the castle, is the fine and mainly Norman church of St.
George, with a western tower, strong enough to stand a siege, and in pattern
resembling those of More and Hope-Say. About a hundred yards beyond or
south of the church is a very remarkable ravine, natural, but which has, at
that point, been scarped, and the earth thrown inwards to form a bank. This
ravine commences some way above the church, and, becoming deeper and
more steep, conveys a considerable brook into the Clun, a little below the
town. This ravine adds immensely to the strength of the place.
Clun is a borough by prescription, having two bailiffs and a recorder.
Recently it possessed a Hundred court for the recovery of small debts, and a
court leet. The bailiffs also held a civil court. The Fitz-Alan charter,
recognising its prescriptive rights, dates from the reign of Edward II. In the
town is an ancient almshouse, founded by Henry Howard, Earl of
Northampton, in 1614; and below it, upon the river, the traces of a very
considerable millpool, now dry.
Clun is entered in Domesday as held by Picot. Edric had held it. Picot
held large possessions (twenty-seven mansions) in the then Hundred of
Rinlau, besides Conodovre, Basecherc, and Lentevrde, under Earl Roger de
Montgomery. It appears from Mr. Eyton’s researches that Picot was a to-
name, and that the grantee, as Robert de Say, with Adeloya his wife, and
Robert and Henry, his sons, is named in a charter relating to St. Martin of
Seez, of the probable date of 1060, and is there described as “Robertus de
Sai qui cognominabatur Picot.” Sai was a vill near Exmes, the chief seat of
the Norman viscounty of Earl Roger, who was the patron of the house of
Seez.
That which in 1060 was a cognomen, in 1086 had become a nomen. In
1074 Odericus refers to him simply as Picod, one of the five whom Earl
Roger placed over his new earldom of Shrewsbury, and again as Picot de
Sai, when, in 1083, the Earl vowed to found Shrewsbury Abbey. Edric,
Picot’s predecessor at Clun, was, without doubt, the Edric Silvaticus, or the
Wild, so well known on the Welsh marches. Picot lived till about 1098, and
was succeeded by his son, Henry de Say, who flourished in the reign of
Page 497
Henry I., and seems to have been alive as late as 1129–30. In his time, or
that of his successor, and probably son, Helias de Say, Clun and Obley were
eliminated from Ringau, and erected into an independent Hundred and
Honour; becoming, in fact, a marcher lordship, such as Oswestry. Helias
left a sole child, Isabel de Say, Lady of Clun, who married—first, William
Fitz Alan; second, Geoffrey de Vere, when the barony contained 11¾
knights’ fees; and third, William Boterell, in whose time it seems to have
been that the castle was stormed and burned by Llewellyn and his
Welshmen.
William Fitz Alan was the son of Alan, son of Flaald, who obtained from
the Conqueror the manor of Oswaldestre or Blancminster, which in 1148
had belonged to Meredith ap Blethyn, a somewhat singular instance of a
Welsh landholder so far to the east of Offa’s Dyke. Meredith built a castle
there, which, on Fitz Alan’s death in 1160, was in the custody of the sheriff,
who sank a well there, and provided it with stores and palisades for defence.
William Fitz Alan’s next brother, Walter, was ancestor of the House of
Stewart. William’s first wife was a niece of Robert Earl of Gloucester. His
second was Isabel de Say, by whom he left—
William Fitz Alan, who inherited Clun and Oswestry. He obtained an
annual fair from King John for Clun. It seems probable that the Castle of
Clun burned by the Welsh was the timber structure inhabited by Edric, and
that it was replaced by works in masonry, including the existing keep, by
this William, who, dying, 1210, left
William Fitz Alan, who died at Clun about 1215, and was succeeded by
his brother,
John Fitz Alan, Lord of Clun and Oswestry, who held the barony but not
the castle of Clun, and who died about 1243, leaving a son,
John Fitz Alan, who acquired Arundel Castle from his mother, and died
1267, leaving—
John Fitz Alan, Lord of Clun and Oswestry, and Earl of Arundel, who
died 1272.
It was upon his death that an inquisition was ordered into the condition of
Clun Castle, which was reported to be small, but pretty well built. The roof
of the tower wanted lead, and the bridge to be repaired. Outside the castle
that of his successor, and probably son, Helias de Say, Clun and Obley were
eliminated from Ringau, and erected into an independent Hundred and
Honour; becoming, in fact, a marcher lordship, such as Oswestry. Helias
left a sole child, Isabel de Say, Lady of Clun, who married—first, William
Fitz Alan; second, Geoffrey de Vere, when the barony contained 11¾
knights’ fees; and third, William Boterell, in whose time it seems to have
been that the castle was stormed and burned by Llewellyn and his
Welshmen.
William Fitz Alan was the son of Alan, son of Flaald, who obtained from
the Conqueror the manor of Oswaldestre or Blancminster, which in 1148
had belonged to Meredith ap Blethyn, a somewhat singular instance of a
Welsh landholder so far to the east of Offa’s Dyke. Meredith built a castle
there, which, on Fitz Alan’s death in 1160, was in the custody of the sheriff,
who sank a well there, and provided it with stores and palisades for defence.
William Fitz Alan’s next brother, Walter, was ancestor of the House of
Stewart. William’s first wife was a niece of Robert Earl of Gloucester. His
second was Isabel de Say, by whom he left—
William Fitz Alan, who inherited Clun and Oswestry. He obtained an
annual fair from King John for Clun. It seems probable that the Castle of
Clun burned by the Welsh was the timber structure inhabited by Edric, and
that it was replaced by works in masonry, including the existing keep, by
this William, who, dying, 1210, left
William Fitz Alan, who died at Clun about 1215, and was succeeded by
his brother,
John Fitz Alan, Lord of Clun and Oswestry, who held the barony but not
the castle of Clun, and who died about 1243, leaving a son,
John Fitz Alan, who acquired Arundel Castle from his mother, and died
1267, leaving—
John Fitz Alan, Lord of Clun and Oswestry, and Earl of Arundel, who
died 1272.
It was upon his death that an inquisition was ordered into the condition of
Clun Castle, which was reported to be small, but pretty well built. The roof
of the tower wanted lead, and the bridge to be repaired. Outside the castle
Page 498
was a bailey, enclosed with a fosse, and a gate not yet finished. In the bailey
stood a grange, stable, and bakehouse. In the town were 183 burgages. The
tenants held by castle guard, each finding a serviens and horse for forty
days at 4½d. per day. The burgesses were to provide twenty men when the
lord hunted.
In 1293, Richard Earl of Arundel received £200 from his Welsh tenants in
Tempsett for a charter. At his death in 1301, Clun Castle was worth no more
than the expenses of its maintenance, or £20 per annum. There were two
water-mills.
Clun continued to be held by a long succession of Fitz Alans, few of
whom were likely to have resided, until, the male line failing, Mary,
daughter and co-heir of Henry Fitz Alan, married Thomas Howard, Duke of
Norfolk, and carried the earldom of Arundel and the barony and castle of
Clun into that family in the person of her son, Philip Earl of Arundel, who
died 1595, under an attainder. Thomas, his son and successor, was restored
in blood, but only partially in property, so that, though titular lord of Clun
and Oswaldestre, he never possessed the estates, which were granted by
King James to his grandfather’s brother, Henry Howard, Earl of
Northampton, who founded the almshouse at Clun. From Henry Howard,
Clun and Oswestry passed by will to his nephew, Thomas Howard, Earl of
Suffolk, whose younger son, Sir Robert, has a monument in the church of
Clun, and by whose descendants the property was sold.
stood a grange, stable, and bakehouse. In the town were 183 burgages. The
tenants held by castle guard, each finding a serviens and horse for forty
days at 4½d. per day. The burgesses were to provide twenty men when the
lord hunted.
In 1293, Richard Earl of Arundel received £200 from his Welsh tenants in
Tempsett for a charter. At his death in 1301, Clun Castle was worth no more
than the expenses of its maintenance, or £20 per annum. There were two
water-mills.
Clun continued to be held by a long succession of Fitz Alans, few of
whom were likely to have resided, until, the male line failing, Mary,
daughter and co-heir of Henry Fitz Alan, married Thomas Howard, Duke of
Norfolk, and carried the earldom of Arundel and the barony and castle of
Clun into that family in the person of her son, Philip Earl of Arundel, who
died 1595, under an attainder. Thomas, his son and successor, was restored
in blood, but only partially in property, so that, though titular lord of Clun
and Oswaldestre, he never possessed the estates, which were granted by
King James to his grandfather’s brother, Henry Howard, Earl of
Northampton, who founded the almshouse at Clun. From Henry Howard,
Clun and Oswestry passed by will to his nephew, Thomas Howard, Earl of
Suffolk, whose younger son, Sir Robert, has a monument in the church of
Clun, and by whose descendants the property was sold.
Page 499
COCKERMOUTH CASTLE, CUMBERLAND.
THIS castle occupies the point of a steep and, in part, rocky knoll which
intervenes between the confluence of the Derwent and the Cocker, two
rivers of Cumberland, the one, on the north, flowing immediately at the foot
of the rock, the other, on the south and west, separated from it by an
irregular strip of land from 50 yards to 70 yards broad, of uneven surface,
and covered by a part of the town which shares its name with the castle. It is
not until 120 yards below the castle that the actual meeting of the waters
takes place. Two of the sides of the position are thus fortified by nature; the
other, the root of the promontory, has no such protection. It seems to have
been covered by an artificial ditch, connecting the cliff of the Derwent with
the sloping bank of the Cocker. This, however, has been filled up, and all
that remains of it is a tradition, confirmed by slight depression in the soil.
The castle, following the outline of the rock, is triangular in plan. Its
north and south sides face towards the Derwent and the Cocker, and are in
length 110 yards and 120 yards. They crest the slope at about 36 feet above
the level of the water, and are connected by a base line of 76 yards, in
which is the entrance, facing towards the east. The castle commands much
of the town, and is placed outside of it to the north and east. The parish
church stands within the town upon a height opposite to, and south-west of,
the castle, the Cocker in its narrow valley flowing between them.
The curtain within which the castle is contained, is about 30 feet high,
and is capped at its western or acute angle by a half-round tower, and at the
two angles of the base are two rectangular towers, that to the north-east
being the gatehouse. Between them is a small buttress turret, solid, and 8
feet square. There are also two rather large buttresses, additions upon the
south curtain near the east end, and three small flat ones upon the older
front of the wall, at the west end. On the exterior of the north wall are seven
buttresses of various dimensions and dates.
The triangular interior of the castle is subdivided by a cross line of
buildings, about 60 yards from the base, into two wards, the lower or
THIS castle occupies the point of a steep and, in part, rocky knoll which
intervenes between the confluence of the Derwent and the Cocker, two
rivers of Cumberland, the one, on the north, flowing immediately at the foot
of the rock, the other, on the south and west, separated from it by an
irregular strip of land from 50 yards to 70 yards broad, of uneven surface,
and covered by a part of the town which shares its name with the castle. It is
not until 120 yards below the castle that the actual meeting of the waters
takes place. Two of the sides of the position are thus fortified by nature; the
other, the root of the promontory, has no such protection. It seems to have
been covered by an artificial ditch, connecting the cliff of the Derwent with
the sloping bank of the Cocker. This, however, has been filled up, and all
that remains of it is a tradition, confirmed by slight depression in the soil.
The castle, following the outline of the rock, is triangular in plan. Its
north and south sides face towards the Derwent and the Cocker, and are in
length 110 yards and 120 yards. They crest the slope at about 36 feet above
the level of the water, and are connected by a base line of 76 yards, in
which is the entrance, facing towards the east. The castle commands much
of the town, and is placed outside of it to the north and east. The parish
church stands within the town upon a height opposite to, and south-west of,
the castle, the Cocker in its narrow valley flowing between them.
The curtain within which the castle is contained, is about 30 feet high,
and is capped at its western or acute angle by a half-round tower, and at the
two angles of the base are two rectangular towers, that to the north-east
being the gatehouse. Between them is a small buttress turret, solid, and 8
feet square. There are also two rather large buttresses, additions upon the
south curtain near the east end, and three small flat ones upon the older
front of the wall, at the west end. On the exterior of the north wall are seven
buttresses of various dimensions and dates.
The triangular interior of the castle is subdivided by a cross line of
buildings, about 60 yards from the base, into two wards, the lower or
Page 500
eastern, four sided, being the larger, and the upper or inner being a small
triangle. Where the cross wall unites at its south end with the curtain is,
upon the latter, a small square tower, called the “Bell Tower,” and at the
north end a much larger tower, containing the kitchen. Between these, on
the cross wall, is the inner gatehouse. The level of the upper ward is about 6
feet above that of the lower. This gatehouse is not central, being 34 yards
from the north, and 19 yards from the south curtain. It is rectangular, or
nearly so, and in plan a capital T, the outer portal being in the centre of the
cross head, the inner one in the foot, and a large chamber in the stem
between them. The head is 36 feet broad, with a projection of 18 feet, and
the gatehouse is 60 feet deep. The cill of the outer entrance being 6 feet
above the outer ward, must have been approached by some kind of bridge
or inclined plane, of which all traces are now gone. The outer arch is lofty
and segmental, of 9 feet opening. It supports a screen parapet, embattled,
behind which is an opening or machecoule 9 feet broad and 4 feet deep.
Behind this is an equilateral arch opening into a passage 10 feet deep,
vaulted and ribbed from the four angles, the ribs meeting at the centre with
two ridge ribs, the central point of the eight being without boss or circle.
Beyond the passage is a second arch of 8 feet opening, and beyond it a sort
of vaulted passage or vestibule splayed and 9 feet deep, opening into the
interior of the gatehouse at the first-floor level. Beyond and right and left of
this inner vestibule are two doors of 2 feet opening, one segmental and one
shoulder headed. These open each into a small acutely vaulted prison, about
8 feet by 16 feet, lighted by a small loop. From each there opens, in the
outer wall, a small door into a mural garderobe. In the centre of each prison
is a small square trap, which is the only entrance into the lower prison or
dungeon, which is of the size of and vaulted as the upper one, but without
any other opening. Two holes in the upper vaults seem intended to carry a
horizontal bar from which a prisoner or his food might be lowered through
the trap. These prisons are placed on each side of, and parallel to, the
gateway, in the thick cross head of the T.
triangle. Where the cross wall unites at its south end with the curtain is,
upon the latter, a small square tower, called the “Bell Tower,” and at the
north end a much larger tower, containing the kitchen. Between these, on
the cross wall, is the inner gatehouse. The level of the upper ward is about 6
feet above that of the lower. This gatehouse is not central, being 34 yards
from the north, and 19 yards from the south curtain. It is rectangular, or
nearly so, and in plan a capital T, the outer portal being in the centre of the
cross head, the inner one in the foot, and a large chamber in the stem
between them. The head is 36 feet broad, with a projection of 18 feet, and
the gatehouse is 60 feet deep. The cill of the outer entrance being 6 feet
above the outer ward, must have been approached by some kind of bridge
or inclined plane, of which all traces are now gone. The outer arch is lofty
and segmental, of 9 feet opening. It supports a screen parapet, embattled,
behind which is an opening or machecoule 9 feet broad and 4 feet deep.
Behind this is an equilateral arch opening into a passage 10 feet deep,
vaulted and ribbed from the four angles, the ribs meeting at the centre with
two ridge ribs, the central point of the eight being without boss or circle.
Beyond the passage is a second arch of 8 feet opening, and beyond it a sort
of vaulted passage or vestibule splayed and 9 feet deep, opening into the
interior of the gatehouse at the first-floor level. Beyond and right and left of
this inner vestibule are two doors of 2 feet opening, one segmental and one
shoulder headed. These open each into a small acutely vaulted prison, about
8 feet by 16 feet, lighted by a small loop. From each there opens, in the
outer wall, a small door into a mural garderobe. In the centre of each prison
is a small square trap, which is the only entrance into the lower prison or
dungeon, which is of the size of and vaulted as the upper one, but without
any other opening. Two holes in the upper vaults seem intended to carry a
horizontal bar from which a prisoner or his food might be lowered through
the trap. These prisons are placed on each side of, and parallel to, the
gateway, in the thick cross head of the T.
Page 501
A. Lower Ward. D. Flag Tower. G. Hall.
B. Upper Ward. E. Gate House. H. Inner Gate-house.
C. East Tower. F. Kitchen. I. Bell Turret.
COCKERMOUTH CASTLE.
The basement of the gatehouse-chamber, 21 feet broad by 29 feet deep,
and about 10 feet high, is quite plain, and without loops. It is entered in the
west wall, from the upper ward, by a flight of twelve steps, beneath a lancet
doorway. The covering of this room was the timber floor of the gatehouse.
The first floor, also 21 feet by 29 feet, has in its side walls two doorways, of
3 feet opening, and acutely pointed, which led into the lateral chambers. In
its west wall, but near the north end, is the inner gateway, piercing a wall 9
feet thick, and opening into the upper ward. This passage is vaulted. It has
no portcullis, and but one rebate for a door. In the north side of the passage
a narrow, shoulder-headed door leads into a small vaulted lodge, looped
towards the upper ward.
B. Upper Ward. E. Gate House. H. Inner Gate-house.
C. East Tower. F. Kitchen. I. Bell Turret.
COCKERMOUTH CASTLE.
The basement of the gatehouse-chamber, 21 feet broad by 29 feet deep,
and about 10 feet high, is quite plain, and without loops. It is entered in the
west wall, from the upper ward, by a flight of twelve steps, beneath a lancet
doorway. The covering of this room was the timber floor of the gatehouse.
The first floor, also 21 feet by 29 feet, has in its side walls two doorways, of
3 feet opening, and acutely pointed, which led into the lateral chambers. In
its west wall, but near the north end, is the inner gateway, piercing a wall 9
feet thick, and opening into the upper ward. This passage is vaulted. It has
no portcullis, and but one rebate for a door. In the north side of the passage
a narrow, shoulder-headed door leads into a small vaulted lodge, looped
towards the upper ward.
Page 502
Entering this ward, on the left, is the door descending to the basement,
and further on, right and left, are two doors, each lancet, and at the top of
flights of twelve steps, which descended into the basements of the lateral
chambers. The gatehouse had an upper floor, now mostly gone.
There were two lateral chambers on each side of the gatehouse, parted by
an east-and-west cross-wall, now destroyed. The large spaces thus formed
are not quite rectangular. That on the north averages about 26 feet east and
west by about 35 feet north and south; and that on the south is a mean
square of about 35 feet. Of the four chambers by which these spaces were
occupied, the basements of the two next the gatehouse were covered with a
pointed vault. Except these, the floors above were timber. The walls of the
southern rooms are mostly destroyed, those of the northern are tolerably
perfect, and show the windows and fireplaces of a first and second floor,
with small mural chambers in the north-east angle. The southern chamber
abutted upon the curtain, in which is seen a rude round-headed arch, now a
postern, but which has a Norman aspect, and looks as though intended
originally for the recess of a loop. The small square bell-turret, of about 18
feet by 10 feet, at the south-west angle of this chamber, stands upon and
slightly projects from the exterior of the curtain. The basement looks of the
age of the curtain; the superstructure, of that of the cross buildings and
inner gatehouse.
At the other or north end of the cross buildings is the kitchen tower, a
very remarkable structure. In plan it is nearly rectangular. It is composed of
a basement and a first floor. The basement is reached from the upper ward
by fifteen descending steps, down a vaulted passage in the wall, at the head
of which is a round-headed door of Decorated date. The chamber is about
30 feet square, having a central octagonal pier without base or cap, whence
spring eight ribs meeting eight other ribs which spring from corbels in the
angles and form responds in the centre of each face. Each of the four bays
thus formed is again spanned by ribs springing diagonally from the
responds. There are no ridge-ribs, and the vaulting spaces are filled up with
rubble. The arches are pointed, and the vault about 20 feet high. In the two
eastern spaces are square-headed loops, opening on the lower ward and now
concealed by a modern building. In the north wall is a small water-drain.
This chamber was probably a cellar, introduced and vaulted to place the
and further on, right and left, are two doors, each lancet, and at the top of
flights of twelve steps, which descended into the basements of the lateral
chambers. The gatehouse had an upper floor, now mostly gone.
There were two lateral chambers on each side of the gatehouse, parted by
an east-and-west cross-wall, now destroyed. The large spaces thus formed
are not quite rectangular. That on the north averages about 26 feet east and
west by about 35 feet north and south; and that on the south is a mean
square of about 35 feet. Of the four chambers by which these spaces were
occupied, the basements of the two next the gatehouse were covered with a
pointed vault. Except these, the floors above were timber. The walls of the
southern rooms are mostly destroyed, those of the northern are tolerably
perfect, and show the windows and fireplaces of a first and second floor,
with small mural chambers in the north-east angle. The southern chamber
abutted upon the curtain, in which is seen a rude round-headed arch, now a
postern, but which has a Norman aspect, and looks as though intended
originally for the recess of a loop. The small square bell-turret, of about 18
feet by 10 feet, at the south-west angle of this chamber, stands upon and
slightly projects from the exterior of the curtain. The basement looks of the
age of the curtain; the superstructure, of that of the cross buildings and
inner gatehouse.
At the other or north end of the cross buildings is the kitchen tower, a
very remarkable structure. In plan it is nearly rectangular. It is composed of
a basement and a first floor. The basement is reached from the upper ward
by fifteen descending steps, down a vaulted passage in the wall, at the head
of which is a round-headed door of Decorated date. The chamber is about
30 feet square, having a central octagonal pier without base or cap, whence
spring eight ribs meeting eight other ribs which spring from corbels in the
angles and form responds in the centre of each face. Each of the four bays
thus formed is again spanned by ribs springing diagonally from the
responds. There are no ridge-ribs, and the vaulting spaces are filled up with
rubble. The arches are pointed, and the vault about 20 feet high. In the two
eastern spaces are square-headed loops, opening on the lower ward and now
concealed by a modern building. In the north wall is a small water-drain.
This chamber was probably a cellar, introduced and vaulted to place the
Page 503
stone floor of the kitchen on the level of the hall. It is called a chapel, but
bears no indication of having been intended or ever used as such.
Above the cellar is the kitchen, the floor of which is level with that of the
hall, and about 10 feet above that of the upper ward. In plan it is rather
rhomboidal than rectangular. The two eastern angles are right angles, that to
the north-west acute, and that to the south-west obtuse. The north and east
sides measure 35 feet and 37 feet, and the opposite sides 29 feet and 38 feet
respectively. In the south wall are two fireplaces, 11 feet broad by 2 feet
deep, with remains of stone hoods, and with square vertical funnels running
up a common shaft at the inner end of each fireplace. The funnels also
receive those from the fireplaces in the rooms to the south, the whole
forming one stack. Over these fireplaces, high up in the south wall, is a
large long loop, square headed, and about 2 feet wide. In the east wall are
two other loops of the same width, and about 24 feet long, crossed by a
transom, square headed, but placed within shoulder-headed recesses. These
openings are clearly intended to carry off the vapour. North of these loops is
a small door, whence a narrow mural stair ascends 10 feet to a second door
that opened upon a gallery along the north wall.
In the centre of the north wall is a bold pier, 7 feet wide by 4 feet deep,
from which spring laterally two pointed arches, thus forming two recesses.
The soffits are ribbed, one with two and one with three ribs, plainly
chamfered. In each recess is a loop, square headed, and opening on the
curtain, and above, 10 feet from the floor, is a string which supported the
floor of a timber gallery, which ran along this north side, and was carried
out in front of the pier, and thus overlooked the culinary operations. It was
entered at the east end from the door already mentioned. In its west end was
another door, opening into a mural chamber, not now accessible, but which
may have communicated with the hall. Above the gallery were two other
loops. At the gallery level the pier is pierced by two narrow passages, with
round-headed doors, which lead to a small chamber in the curtain, probably
a garderobe. Below, the lateral faces of the pier are hollowed, as for
cupboards.
The west wall of the kitchen is now chiefly occupied by a large lofty
arch, of 15 feet span, and about 30 feet high, evidently a modern insertion
together with the wall above, and opening into what was the hall. On the
south side of it are traces of a part of the old buttery-hatch. To the north is
bears no indication of having been intended or ever used as such.
Above the cellar is the kitchen, the floor of which is level with that of the
hall, and about 10 feet above that of the upper ward. In plan it is rather
rhomboidal than rectangular. The two eastern angles are right angles, that to
the north-west acute, and that to the south-west obtuse. The north and east
sides measure 35 feet and 37 feet, and the opposite sides 29 feet and 38 feet
respectively. In the south wall are two fireplaces, 11 feet broad by 2 feet
deep, with remains of stone hoods, and with square vertical funnels running
up a common shaft at the inner end of each fireplace. The funnels also
receive those from the fireplaces in the rooms to the south, the whole
forming one stack. Over these fireplaces, high up in the south wall, is a
large long loop, square headed, and about 2 feet wide. In the east wall are
two other loops of the same width, and about 24 feet long, crossed by a
transom, square headed, but placed within shoulder-headed recesses. These
openings are clearly intended to carry off the vapour. North of these loops is
a small door, whence a narrow mural stair ascends 10 feet to a second door
that opened upon a gallery along the north wall.
In the centre of the north wall is a bold pier, 7 feet wide by 4 feet deep,
from which spring laterally two pointed arches, thus forming two recesses.
The soffits are ribbed, one with two and one with three ribs, plainly
chamfered. In each recess is a loop, square headed, and opening on the
curtain, and above, 10 feet from the floor, is a string which supported the
floor of a timber gallery, which ran along this north side, and was carried
out in front of the pier, and thus overlooked the culinary operations. It was
entered at the east end from the door already mentioned. In its west end was
another door, opening into a mural chamber, not now accessible, but which
may have communicated with the hall. Above the gallery were two other
loops. At the gallery level the pier is pierced by two narrow passages, with
round-headed doors, which lead to a small chamber in the curtain, probably
a garderobe. Below, the lateral faces of the pier are hollowed, as for
cupboards.
The west wall of the kitchen is now chiefly occupied by a large lofty
arch, of 15 feet span, and about 30 feet high, evidently a modern insertion
together with the wall above, and opening into what was the hall. On the
south side of it are traces of a part of the old buttery-hatch. To the north is
Page 504
the only door of the kitchen, 4 feet broad, and shoulder headed, and which
opened from the lower end of the hall. It is curious that so large a kitchen
should have had no other outlet. Grose gives a drawing taken in 1774,
which shows this west wall of the kitchen before the great arch was
inserted. The wall contains an immense hole or gap, above which, on the
outside, is the weather moulding of the high-pitched roof of the hall. The
kitchen was very lofty, and had an open timber roof the corbels of the
hammer-beams of which remain. Above was the parapet, one side of which
belonged to the outer curtain.
Abutting from the west wall of the kitchen, in the rebuilding of which the
moulding showing the pitch of the hall roof has been removed, was the east,
or lower end of the hall, a building 30 feet wide by about 50 feet long, of
which the curtain formed the north side. The south wall is levelled nearly to
the ground, but its foundations show its exterior buttresses, and the place of
the door in the basement near the east end of the wall. The western wall,
dividing it from the withdrawing-room, is gone. The basement below the
hall seems to have been about 10 feet high. It was covered by the timber
floor. The entrance was in the south wall, close to the east end, probably by
an interior stair. One jamb of the doorway remains, richly moulded in the
Decorated style, though much decayed. The hall had three large windows in
the north wall, which is strengthened outside by three buttresses, evidently
added to the older wall when the hall was built. The windows are of the
fashion so common in the halls of Decorated castles. They are of two lights
trefoiled, with a transom, and in the head a quatrefoil. That next the east end
has a stone window-seat, and the others may have been so provided.
Outside, the windows have a good drip-stone. Probably the fireplace was in
the south wall. In the east wall, near the south end, is a large plain trefoil-
headed recess, not even chamfered, resembling a large piscina, with a stone
shelf. It was possibly intended to place the dishes upon when received from
the adjacent buttery-hatch. South of this a small door leads into a well-stair,
which led to the roof, and is lighted by a small and very neat foliated circle.
The cant or filling up of the adjacent angle of the kitchen is produced by
this staircase. The hall had an open timber roof, some of the corbels of
which remain.
The rooms west of the hall extend to and include the western or angle
tower. The room next the hall had two large Tudor windows in the curtain;
opened from the lower end of the hall. It is curious that so large a kitchen
should have had no other outlet. Grose gives a drawing taken in 1774,
which shows this west wall of the kitchen before the great arch was
inserted. The wall contains an immense hole or gap, above which, on the
outside, is the weather moulding of the high-pitched roof of the hall. The
kitchen was very lofty, and had an open timber roof the corbels of the
hammer-beams of which remain. Above was the parapet, one side of which
belonged to the outer curtain.
Abutting from the west wall of the kitchen, in the rebuilding of which the
moulding showing the pitch of the hall roof has been removed, was the east,
or lower end of the hall, a building 30 feet wide by about 50 feet long, of
which the curtain formed the north side. The south wall is levelled nearly to
the ground, but its foundations show its exterior buttresses, and the place of
the door in the basement near the east end of the wall. The western wall,
dividing it from the withdrawing-room, is gone. The basement below the
hall seems to have been about 10 feet high. It was covered by the timber
floor. The entrance was in the south wall, close to the east end, probably by
an interior stair. One jamb of the doorway remains, richly moulded in the
Decorated style, though much decayed. The hall had three large windows in
the north wall, which is strengthened outside by three buttresses, evidently
added to the older wall when the hall was built. The windows are of the
fashion so common in the halls of Decorated castles. They are of two lights
trefoiled, with a transom, and in the head a quatrefoil. That next the east end
has a stone window-seat, and the others may have been so provided.
Outside, the windows have a good drip-stone. Probably the fireplace was in
the south wall. In the east wall, near the south end, is a large plain trefoil-
headed recess, not even chamfered, resembling a large piscina, with a stone
shelf. It was possibly intended to place the dishes upon when received from
the adjacent buttery-hatch. South of this a small door leads into a well-stair,
which led to the roof, and is lighted by a small and very neat foliated circle.
The cant or filling up of the adjacent angle of the kitchen is produced by
this staircase. The hall had an open timber roof, some of the corbels of
which remain.
The rooms west of the hall extend to and include the western or angle
tower. The room next the hall had two large Tudor windows in the curtain;
Page 505
they are flat topped, of three lights, with a transom, and within flat-arched
recesses; they are evident insertions. The interior of the west tower is
roughly four sided, and the gorge wall is gone. It had a basement with three
loops, with large splayed and pointed recesses, and above were three floors,
each with an excellent one-light trefoiled window of Decorated date; the
two lower are towards the west; the upper, a marked feature in the view of
the castle from the town, is towards the south. In the north wall a straight
stair leads up to a mural garderobe, the opening of which is projected upon
two corbels high up at the junction of the curtain with the tower. The lower
part of this tower seems original; the upper part has been rebuilt, no doubt
in the Decorated period. Twenty-two feet in the rear of the tower remains
the base of a doorway which led into these chambers from the upper ward.
The well was a yard or two from the entrance to the room below the hall. Its
place is now marked by a pump.
The Lower Ward is much obscured by the erection against the north
curtain of a dwelling-house, and against the south, of stables, both modern.
A building has also been placed against the east wall, connected with the
gatehouse. The south-eastern angle is formed by the Flag Tower, 32 feet
square, and projecting outwards about 9 feet upon the two curtains. It has a
basement and two upper floors, each entered from the court, and the two
latter by external separate stone stairs. A third stair, also exterior, ascends
from the east curtain to the battlements. The arrangement is altogether
peculiar. Moreover, the roof of the tower is high pitched, having the south
gable stepped in the Scottish fashion, flush with the outer wall, while the
north gable is set in about 3 feet so as to allow of a rampart walk along
three sides of the tower. The tower is occupied, and locked up.
The tower corresponding to this, and forming the north-east angle of the
ward, is the gatehouse. It is rectangular, 50 feet broad by 22 feet deep, and
pierced by the gateway passage, with spacious rooms on each side and
above, all inhabited. The outer gateway is round headed, and rather less
than half a circle. The passage is vaulted, and has rebates for a central and
two outer doors, of which that next the entrance seems to have been
inserted to replace a portcullis. Over the front, beneath a long flat label, are
five shields of arms: 1. What seems to have been a cinquefoil within an orle
of crosslets flory, Umfranville. 2. Barry of 6, Multon. 3. Three luces
haurient, Lucy. 4. A lion rampant, Percy. 5. A saltire, Nevile. The gatehouse
recesses; they are evident insertions. The interior of the west tower is
roughly four sided, and the gorge wall is gone. It had a basement with three
loops, with large splayed and pointed recesses, and above were three floors,
each with an excellent one-light trefoiled window of Decorated date; the
two lower are towards the west; the upper, a marked feature in the view of
the castle from the town, is towards the south. In the north wall a straight
stair leads up to a mural garderobe, the opening of which is projected upon
two corbels high up at the junction of the curtain with the tower. The lower
part of this tower seems original; the upper part has been rebuilt, no doubt
in the Decorated period. Twenty-two feet in the rear of the tower remains
the base of a doorway which led into these chambers from the upper ward.
The well was a yard or two from the entrance to the room below the hall. Its
place is now marked by a pump.
The Lower Ward is much obscured by the erection against the north
curtain of a dwelling-house, and against the south, of stables, both modern.
A building has also been placed against the east wall, connected with the
gatehouse. The south-eastern angle is formed by the Flag Tower, 32 feet
square, and projecting outwards about 9 feet upon the two curtains. It has a
basement and two upper floors, each entered from the court, and the two
latter by external separate stone stairs. A third stair, also exterior, ascends
from the east curtain to the battlements. The arrangement is altogether
peculiar. Moreover, the roof of the tower is high pitched, having the south
gable stepped in the Scottish fashion, flush with the outer wall, while the
north gable is set in about 3 feet so as to allow of a rampart walk along
three sides of the tower. The tower is occupied, and locked up.
The tower corresponding to this, and forming the north-east angle of the
ward, is the gatehouse. It is rectangular, 50 feet broad by 22 feet deep, and
pierced by the gateway passage, with spacious rooms on each side and
above, all inhabited. The outer gateway is round headed, and rather less
than half a circle. The passage is vaulted, and has rebates for a central and
two outer doors, of which that next the entrance seems to have been
inserted to replace a portcullis. Over the front, beneath a long flat label, are
five shields of arms: 1. What seems to have been a cinquefoil within an orle
of crosslets flory, Umfranville. 2. Barry of 6, Multon. 3. Three luces
haurient, Lucy. 4. A lion rampant, Percy. 5. A saltire, Nevile. The gatehouse
Page 506
has two floors over the gateway in the Perpendicular style, and later than
the lower part, which is Decorated. To this has been added an upper story,
built into the battlements of that below, which appear in the face of the wall.
The portal is flanked by two flat pilasters, which have been partially
concealed by the addition of a Barbican, composed of two lateral walls of
18 feet projection, and 7 feet 6 inches thickness, terminating in square piers,
which supported a cross arch of entrance, over which was a parapet, now
gone. These walls were about 12 feet high, parapeted, and the ramparts
reached by two lateral straight stairs niched in the wall. There was no doubt
originally a drawbridge to the main gate, which may have been moved
forward when the barbican was added. Grose’s drawing shows a sort of
ravelin of earth in front of this outer entrance, which probably was thrown
up during the Parliamentary struggles. All this front, outside the walls, has
been levelled and converted into a garden and approach. Outside the north
and south curtains, between the wall and the top of the slope, is a walk of
about 9 feet broad.
The accounts of this castle claim for it a very remote origin, and describe
the knoll upon which it stands as artificial. This, however, is not the case.
The knoll is evidently natural, and the point of a tract of high land which is
bounded by two rivers. The position is not the less strong, and is such as
either Britons, Romans, or Saxons might very well have availed themselves
of. There is, however, no positive evidence that they did so, and nothing
now seen is of necessity older, or as old, as the Conquest. The foundations
of the western tower, and of the greater part of its contiguous curtains, so
far as they contain the upper ward, are probably Norman, and may be the
work of William de Meschines, in the reign of Henry I. As the works could
scarcely have been confined to so small an area as the present upper ward, it
is probable that the whole of the present area was included in the Norman
castle, and that the cross ditch was then excavated. How the area was then
occupied, where was the hall, where the kitchen, does not appear; probably
not on the present site, seeing that the windows are evident insertions in,
and the buttresses additions to, the north curtain. Moreover, no part of the
line of buildings dividing the upper from the lower ward shows any trace of
Norman work. Whatever or wherever were the Norman buildings, they
probably stood until the Decorated period, or early in the fourteenth
the lower part, which is Decorated. To this has been added an upper story,
built into the battlements of that below, which appear in the face of the wall.
The portal is flanked by two flat pilasters, which have been partially
concealed by the addition of a Barbican, composed of two lateral walls of
18 feet projection, and 7 feet 6 inches thickness, terminating in square piers,
which supported a cross arch of entrance, over which was a parapet, now
gone. These walls were about 12 feet high, parapeted, and the ramparts
reached by two lateral straight stairs niched in the wall. There was no doubt
originally a drawbridge to the main gate, which may have been moved
forward when the barbican was added. Grose’s drawing shows a sort of
ravelin of earth in front of this outer entrance, which probably was thrown
up during the Parliamentary struggles. All this front, outside the walls, has
been levelled and converted into a garden and approach. Outside the north
and south curtains, between the wall and the top of the slope, is a walk of
about 9 feet broad.
The accounts of this castle claim for it a very remote origin, and describe
the knoll upon which it stands as artificial. This, however, is not the case.
The knoll is evidently natural, and the point of a tract of high land which is
bounded by two rivers. The position is not the less strong, and is such as
either Britons, Romans, or Saxons might very well have availed themselves
of. There is, however, no positive evidence that they did so, and nothing
now seen is of necessity older, or as old, as the Conquest. The foundations
of the western tower, and of the greater part of its contiguous curtains, so
far as they contain the upper ward, are probably Norman, and may be the
work of William de Meschines, in the reign of Henry I. As the works could
scarcely have been confined to so small an area as the present upper ward, it
is probable that the whole of the present area was included in the Norman
castle, and that the cross ditch was then excavated. How the area was then
occupied, where was the hall, where the kitchen, does not appear; probably
not on the present site, seeing that the windows are evident insertions in,
and the buttresses additions to, the north curtain. Moreover, no part of the
line of buildings dividing the upper from the lower ward shows any trace of
Norman work. Whatever or wherever were the Norman buildings, they
probably stood until the Decorated period, or early in the fourteenth
Page 507
century, when the present cross buildings, the kitchen and the hall, seem to
have been erected, and much of the curtain rebuilt or strengthened.
The outer gatehouse and the south-eastern tower are not unlikely to be of
the same date, though there have been large additions to, and alterations in,
the former building, in the Perpendicular period, when the barbican was
added. The Tudor windows in the upper ward are the only traces of still
later alterations. The effects of the Parliamentary strife upon the building,
beyond the removal of the roofs, do not appear to have been serious; and, as
the gatehouse seems always to have been inhabited, no doubt some sort of
attention was paid to it, and to the flag tower. More recently, a dwelling-
house has been built within the area, within one window of which hangs a
curious relic of the past, in the shape of an escutcheon of Percy and Lucy
quartered, in old stained glass.
The remodelling of the Norman castle in the Decorated period was
probably the work of Anthony de Lucy, who held the lordship from 2
Edward II. to 17 Edward III., and was an active soldier, a great military
chief in the counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland, and likely enough
to put into the best possible order a castle important both to his own estates
and to the national frontier committed to his charge.
The Perpendicular additions, including the armorial shields over the
gateway, must have been later than 22 Richard II., when Maud, the Lucy
heiress, carried Cockermouth Castle to Henry Percy, who agreed to quarter
her arms. The Umfranville shield commemorates Maud’s first husband,
Gilbert, Earl of Angus. The Nevile shield is that of Henry Percy’s first wife,
who was a daughter of Ralph Lord Nevile. As this Henry was a very
considerable person, and survived till 1408, it is probable that he built or
rebuilt the upper part of the gatehouse between 1388–9 and 1408.
Cockermouth Castle has but a scanty history, which perhaps accounts for
the perfect condition of its outer walls. In 1221 Henry III. ordered it to be
laid siege to, and, if taken, destroyed; but this fate it either escaped, or, if
carried out, it was restored a century later with great completeness. It makes
no figure in the Wars of the Roses, nor does it appear to what extent it
shared in the vicissitudes of the house of Percy. The town seems to have
been taken by surprise in 1387 by a band of Scottish marauders. Mary of
Scotland rested here, no doubt on her way from Workington to Carlisle,
have been erected, and much of the curtain rebuilt or strengthened.
The outer gatehouse and the south-eastern tower are not unlikely to be of
the same date, though there have been large additions to, and alterations in,
the former building, in the Perpendicular period, when the barbican was
added. The Tudor windows in the upper ward are the only traces of still
later alterations. The effects of the Parliamentary strife upon the building,
beyond the removal of the roofs, do not appear to have been serious; and, as
the gatehouse seems always to have been inhabited, no doubt some sort of
attention was paid to it, and to the flag tower. More recently, a dwelling-
house has been built within the area, within one window of which hangs a
curious relic of the past, in the shape of an escutcheon of Percy and Lucy
quartered, in old stained glass.
The remodelling of the Norman castle in the Decorated period was
probably the work of Anthony de Lucy, who held the lordship from 2
Edward II. to 17 Edward III., and was an active soldier, a great military
chief in the counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland, and likely enough
to put into the best possible order a castle important both to his own estates
and to the national frontier committed to his charge.
The Perpendicular additions, including the armorial shields over the
gateway, must have been later than 22 Richard II., when Maud, the Lucy
heiress, carried Cockermouth Castle to Henry Percy, who agreed to quarter
her arms. The Umfranville shield commemorates Maud’s first husband,
Gilbert, Earl of Angus. The Nevile shield is that of Henry Percy’s first wife,
who was a daughter of Ralph Lord Nevile. As this Henry was a very
considerable person, and survived till 1408, it is probable that he built or
rebuilt the upper part of the gatehouse between 1388–9 and 1408.
Cockermouth Castle has but a scanty history, which perhaps accounts for
the perfect condition of its outer walls. In 1221 Henry III. ordered it to be
laid siege to, and, if taken, destroyed; but this fate it either escaped, or, if
carried out, it was restored a century later with great completeness. It makes
no figure in the Wars of the Roses, nor does it appear to what extent it
shared in the vicissitudes of the house of Percy. The town seems to have
been taken by surprise in 1387 by a band of Scottish marauders. Mary of
Scotland rested here, no doubt on her way from Workington to Carlisle,
Page 508
after her landing in Cumberland. In August, 1648, the castle, held for the
Parliament, was attacked by the Royalists of the neighbourhood, and held
out a month, till relieved by the Parliamentary General Ashton. It seems to
have been spared the usual fate of English castles of that period at the hands
of one or the other party. In 1688, the only habitable parts were the gateway
and the courthouse, probably the adjacent building.
DESCENT.
Cockermouth was the “caput” of the barony of Allerdale, usually called
in the Inquisitions the Honour of Cockermouth. There is no collected list of
the lands held of the Honour, but they seem to have been extensive, and are
specified in divers inquisitions from time to time, with the names of their
holders. The original grantee seems to have been William, brother of the
well-known Ranulph de Meschines, Earl of Chester. He received, either
from the Conqueror or from Henry I., the territory of Copland, between the
Dudden and the Derwent, and was probably the founder of the castle of
Cockermouth, as he was of the Monastery of St. Bees. His son Ranulph
died childless, and his heir was Cicely, who married Robert de Romilly,
Lord of Skipton. Cockermouth came to Alice, their third daughter and co-
heir, who married William FitzDuncan, Earl of Moray, in Scotland, nephew
to King Malcolm. Amabel, their second daughter and co-heir, had
Egremont, and married Reginald de Lucy, living 20 Henry II.; while Cicely,
the elder daughter, married William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle, who died
1179. Their second daughter, Hawise le Gros, married, first, William de
Mandeville, Earl of Essex, and secondly, William de Fortibus, in her right
Earl of Albemarle, and who (1215) had restored to him by King John the
manor of Cockermouth, and (1216) certain confiscated lands held of the
Honour. In February, 1221, King Henry ordered the Sheriff of
Westmoreland to summon his forces to lay siege to, take, and utterly
destroy the Castle of Cockermouth; but later in the year the manor was
granted again to the Earl. It is said that this Earl held half the castle, which
escheated to the Crown, and was granted in 1323 by Edward II. to Anthony,
Lord Lucy, who held the other moiety. The descent, however, is
exceedingly obscure. It appears that Richard de Lucy, Amabel’s son, had
Egremont, and died about 15 John, leaving Amabel and Alice. His wife,
Ada de Morville, married secondly, Thomas de Multon, and left issue,
Parliament, was attacked by the Royalists of the neighbourhood, and held
out a month, till relieved by the Parliamentary General Ashton. It seems to
have been spared the usual fate of English castles of that period at the hands
of one or the other party. In 1688, the only habitable parts were the gateway
and the courthouse, probably the adjacent building.
DESCENT.
Cockermouth was the “caput” of the barony of Allerdale, usually called
in the Inquisitions the Honour of Cockermouth. There is no collected list of
the lands held of the Honour, but they seem to have been extensive, and are
specified in divers inquisitions from time to time, with the names of their
holders. The original grantee seems to have been William, brother of the
well-known Ranulph de Meschines, Earl of Chester. He received, either
from the Conqueror or from Henry I., the territory of Copland, between the
Dudden and the Derwent, and was probably the founder of the castle of
Cockermouth, as he was of the Monastery of St. Bees. His son Ranulph
died childless, and his heir was Cicely, who married Robert de Romilly,
Lord of Skipton. Cockermouth came to Alice, their third daughter and co-
heir, who married William FitzDuncan, Earl of Moray, in Scotland, nephew
to King Malcolm. Amabel, their second daughter and co-heir, had
Egremont, and married Reginald de Lucy, living 20 Henry II.; while Cicely,
the elder daughter, married William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle, who died
1179. Their second daughter, Hawise le Gros, married, first, William de
Mandeville, Earl of Essex, and secondly, William de Fortibus, in her right
Earl of Albemarle, and who (1215) had restored to him by King John the
manor of Cockermouth, and (1216) certain confiscated lands held of the
Honour. In February, 1221, King Henry ordered the Sheriff of
Westmoreland to summon his forces to lay siege to, take, and utterly
destroy the Castle of Cockermouth; but later in the year the manor was
granted again to the Earl. It is said that this Earl held half the castle, which
escheated to the Crown, and was granted in 1323 by Edward II. to Anthony,
Lord Lucy, who held the other moiety. The descent, however, is
exceedingly obscure. It appears that Richard de Lucy, Amabel’s son, had
Egremont, and died about 15 John, leaving Amabel and Alice. His wife,
Ada de Morville, married secondly, Thomas de Multon, and left issue,
Page 509
while Multon’s two sons by a former wife married—1. Lambert de Multon
to Amabel; and 2. Alan de Multon to Alice, the co-heirs.
Lambert’s great-granddaughter, the heiress of Egremont, married Thomas
de Lucy, and Alan’s son, Thomas de Multon, took the name of Lucy, and
died 33 Edward I., and probably held the Castle of Cockermouth. He was
followed by his sons, Thomas, who died childless, 2 Edward II., and
Anthony de Lucy, a great baron and military leader in the Western marches.
He died 17 Edward III., leaving Thomas de Lucy, who died seized of
Cockermouth Castle and Honour 39 Edward III., having married his remote
cousin, Margaret de Multon, the heiress of Egremont, and thus reunited the
whole inheritance, the second moiety of Cockermouth having been acquired
by his father.
Thomas and Margaret had Anthony de Lucy, aged twenty-four, 39
Edward III., and Maud. Anthony had Joan, who died young, 43 Edward III.,
seized of the castle and Honour, when Maud became the heiress. She
married Gilbert de Umfranville, Earl of Angus, who died 4 Richard II. They
had but one son, Sir Robert, who predeceased his father, childless. The earl
died 4 Richard II., seized of the castle and Honour, and Maud then, 8
Richard II., married Henry de Percy, Earl of Northumberland. The
inheritance, failing the heirs of her body, was settled upon the heirs male of
her husband, who were to bear the arms of Percy and Lucy quarterly. This
remainder took effect, and Cockermouth passed to the descendant of Percy
by his first wife, Margaret, daughter of Ralph Lord Neville, whose arms
appear over the gateway of Cockermouth, as do those of the Earl of Angus.
Earl Henry was slain at Braham Moor, 1408. Hotspur, his valiant son, fell
at Shrewsbury. Henry, the next earl, and lord of Cockermouth, fell at St.
Alban’s, 1455, as did his son Henry, at Towton, in 1461. Henry, the next
earl, met a violent death in the Tower in 1489, being the fifth lord of
Cockermouth of that brave, brilliant, and unfortunate race. Henry, the next
earl, died a natural death in 1527, as did his son Henry, childless, in 1537.
The next inheritors were his nephews, sons of his brother, Sir Thomas; the
earl Thomas, who was beheaded, leaving an only daughter, 1572, and Earl
Henry, who died 1585. Henry, the next earl, died 1632, and was followed by
Earl Algernon, who died 1668, whose son, Earl Jocelyn, was the last male
of the ancient race, his son Henry having died young. Elizabeth, Baroness
Percy, the daughter and sole heir, married Charles Seymour, Duke of
to Amabel; and 2. Alan de Multon to Alice, the co-heirs.
Lambert’s great-granddaughter, the heiress of Egremont, married Thomas
de Lucy, and Alan’s son, Thomas de Multon, took the name of Lucy, and
died 33 Edward I., and probably held the Castle of Cockermouth. He was
followed by his sons, Thomas, who died childless, 2 Edward II., and
Anthony de Lucy, a great baron and military leader in the Western marches.
He died 17 Edward III., leaving Thomas de Lucy, who died seized of
Cockermouth Castle and Honour 39 Edward III., having married his remote
cousin, Margaret de Multon, the heiress of Egremont, and thus reunited the
whole inheritance, the second moiety of Cockermouth having been acquired
by his father.
Thomas and Margaret had Anthony de Lucy, aged twenty-four, 39
Edward III., and Maud. Anthony had Joan, who died young, 43 Edward III.,
seized of the castle and Honour, when Maud became the heiress. She
married Gilbert de Umfranville, Earl of Angus, who died 4 Richard II. They
had but one son, Sir Robert, who predeceased his father, childless. The earl
died 4 Richard II., seized of the castle and Honour, and Maud then, 8
Richard II., married Henry de Percy, Earl of Northumberland. The
inheritance, failing the heirs of her body, was settled upon the heirs male of
her husband, who were to bear the arms of Percy and Lucy quarterly. This
remainder took effect, and Cockermouth passed to the descendant of Percy
by his first wife, Margaret, daughter of Ralph Lord Neville, whose arms
appear over the gateway of Cockermouth, as do those of the Earl of Angus.
Earl Henry was slain at Braham Moor, 1408. Hotspur, his valiant son, fell
at Shrewsbury. Henry, the next earl, and lord of Cockermouth, fell at St.
Alban’s, 1455, as did his son Henry, at Towton, in 1461. Henry, the next
earl, met a violent death in the Tower in 1489, being the fifth lord of
Cockermouth of that brave, brilliant, and unfortunate race. Henry, the next
earl, died a natural death in 1527, as did his son Henry, childless, in 1537.
The next inheritors were his nephews, sons of his brother, Sir Thomas; the
earl Thomas, who was beheaded, leaving an only daughter, 1572, and Earl
Henry, who died 1585. Henry, the next earl, died 1632, and was followed by
Earl Algernon, who died 1668, whose son, Earl Jocelyn, was the last male
of the ancient race, his son Henry having died young. Elizabeth, Baroness
Percy, the daughter and sole heir, married Charles Seymour, Duke of
Page 510
Somerset. Algernon, their son, created Earl of Egremont and Baron
Cockermouth, died 1750, and was father of Elizabeth, the Seymour-Percy
heiress; but Duke Algernon had also a sister, Katherine, upon whose son,
Sir Charles Wyndham, the earldom and barony, and the castle of
Cockermouth, were settled, and so descended to George, the last earl, who
died without a successor in 1845, bequeathing Cockermouth to his natural
son. Cockermouth Castle, therefore, having descended through the houses
of De Meschines, De Fortibus, Multon, Lucy, and Percy, can boast a
connexion with some of the most celebrated of the northern barons. It has,
however, another, and certainly not less brilliant, association. In the
adjacent town was born William Wordsworth, and the green court, flower-
crowned walls, and gloomy dungeons of the castle are commemorated in
one of the sweetest of his sonnets:—
FROM THE SPIRIT OF COCKERMOUTH CASTLE.
“Thou look’st upon me, and dost fondly think,
Poet! that, stricken as both are by years,
We, differing once so much, are now compeers,
Prepared, when each has stood his time, to sink
Into the dust. Erewhile a sterner link
United us; when thou, in boyish play,
Entering my dungeon, didst become a prey
To soul-appalling darkness. Not a blink
Of light was there; and thus did I, thy tutor,
Make thy young thoughts acquainted with the grave,
While thou wert chasing the wing’d butterfly
Through my green courts; or climbing, a bold suitor,
Up to the flowers whose golden progeny
Still round my shatter’d brow in beauty wave.”
Cockermouth, died 1750, and was father of Elizabeth, the Seymour-Percy
heiress; but Duke Algernon had also a sister, Katherine, upon whose son,
Sir Charles Wyndham, the earldom and barony, and the castle of
Cockermouth, were settled, and so descended to George, the last earl, who
died without a successor in 1845, bequeathing Cockermouth to his natural
son. Cockermouth Castle, therefore, having descended through the houses
of De Meschines, De Fortibus, Multon, Lucy, and Percy, can boast a
connexion with some of the most celebrated of the northern barons. It has,
however, another, and certainly not less brilliant, association. In the
adjacent town was born William Wordsworth, and the green court, flower-
crowned walls, and gloomy dungeons of the castle are commemorated in
one of the sweetest of his sonnets:—
FROM THE SPIRIT OF COCKERMOUTH CASTLE.
“Thou look’st upon me, and dost fondly think,
Poet! that, stricken as both are by years,
We, differing once so much, are now compeers,
Prepared, when each has stood his time, to sink
Into the dust. Erewhile a sterner link
United us; when thou, in boyish play,
Entering my dungeon, didst become a prey
To soul-appalling darkness. Not a blink
Of light was there; and thus did I, thy tutor,
Make thy young thoughts acquainted with the grave,
While thou wert chasing the wing’d butterfly
Through my green courts; or climbing, a bold suitor,
Up to the flowers whose golden progeny
Still round my shatter’d brow in beauty wave.”
Page 511
THE KEEP OF THE CASTLE OF COLCHESTER, ESSEX.
WHEN Hubert of Rie, standing at early dawn between the church and his
castle,
“Entre li mostier e sa mote,”
welcomed, harboured, and under the escort of his three sons, sent forward
his hard-bested lord by the road still known as “Le Voye le Duc,” he
probably little thought that the incident would become matter of history,
and still less could he have anticipated the splendid reward, for this and
other faithful services, his sons were to receive, twenty years later, from that
same sovereign in a foreign and then unconquered land. Whether Hubert
himself took part in the conquest is unknown; he certainly did not desert his
mote and mostier in the Cotentin for any English possessions, but of his
sons, Ralph and Adam received lands as under tenants in the counties of
Nottingham, Derby, and Kent; and Eudo, called by Dugdale the fourth son,
but the principal representative of the family in England, appears in the
Survey as tenant in chief of sixty-four manors in the counties of Beds,
Cambridge, Essex, Hants, Herts, Huntingdon, Lincoln, Norfolk,
Northampton, and Suffolk.
Of these manors twenty-five were in Essex, in which county Eudo,
entitled from his office “Dapifer,” resided, and his possessions there lay in
twelve of its twenty hundreds. In Colchester the lordship and demesne of
the town were held by the king. Eudo’s interest there was but moderate,
consisting of five houses, 40 acres of land, and a claim to the fourth of
certain lands held “in elemosina Regis.” How he maintained his military
position we are not told, or why he settled in Colchester. The only Essex
castle mentioned in Domesday is Rageneia or Ralegh. “In hoc manerio fecit
Suen suum castellum,” nor do any of the old mottes, of which there are
several, as Bures, Great Birch, Ongar, Plessy, and Stansted, appear to have
belonged to Eudo. His office of Dapifer or Sewer he held under the
Conqueror and his two successors, and he so witnessed a charter by William
at Honfleur in 1074, and others by Rufus in 1093, and by Henry I. Though
WHEN Hubert of Rie, standing at early dawn between the church and his
castle,
“Entre li mostier e sa mote,”
welcomed, harboured, and under the escort of his three sons, sent forward
his hard-bested lord by the road still known as “Le Voye le Duc,” he
probably little thought that the incident would become matter of history,
and still less could he have anticipated the splendid reward, for this and
other faithful services, his sons were to receive, twenty years later, from that
same sovereign in a foreign and then unconquered land. Whether Hubert
himself took part in the conquest is unknown; he certainly did not desert his
mote and mostier in the Cotentin for any English possessions, but of his
sons, Ralph and Adam received lands as under tenants in the counties of
Nottingham, Derby, and Kent; and Eudo, called by Dugdale the fourth son,
but the principal representative of the family in England, appears in the
Survey as tenant in chief of sixty-four manors in the counties of Beds,
Cambridge, Essex, Hants, Herts, Huntingdon, Lincoln, Norfolk,
Northampton, and Suffolk.
Of these manors twenty-five were in Essex, in which county Eudo,
entitled from his office “Dapifer,” resided, and his possessions there lay in
twelve of its twenty hundreds. In Colchester the lordship and demesne of
the town were held by the king. Eudo’s interest there was but moderate,
consisting of five houses, 40 acres of land, and a claim to the fourth of
certain lands held “in elemosina Regis.” How he maintained his military
position we are not told, or why he settled in Colchester. The only Essex
castle mentioned in Domesday is Rageneia or Ralegh. “In hoc manerio fecit
Suen suum castellum,” nor do any of the old mottes, of which there are
several, as Bures, Great Birch, Ongar, Plessy, and Stansted, appear to have
belonged to Eudo. His office of Dapifer or Sewer he held under the
Conqueror and his two successors, and he so witnessed a charter by William
at Honfleur in 1074, and others by Rufus in 1093, and by Henry I. Though
Page 512
described as “Dapifer Domini Regis totius Angliæ,” he seems to have
belonged to the ducal not the royal court, for the sewer of England,
according to Spelman, was the brother of Robert Fitz Hamon of Morganwg,
who appears in the Survey in Colchester and elsewhere as “Hamo Dapifer.”
It is related that in consequence of the high character borne by Eudo the
burgesses of Colchester moved William Rufus to place him in charge of
their town. That he was so placed appears from a document quoted by
Dugdale, and his connexion with the place is shown by the Pipe Roll of 31
Henry I., in which, among other entries relating to Colchester, are items for
“the lordship of the king’s ploughlands of the land of Eudo Dapifer, 8s.
10d.,” and from “the farm of his land, paid into the treasury, £91. 3s. 0d.”
This was after Eudo’s death, when Hamo de Clare was in charge. As the
crown held the lion’s share of the town, Eudo’s position there must have
been supreme. His first step was probably to build a castle, and upon his
own land, for when in 1096 he founded St. John’s Abbey, one of its
endowments, specified in the foundation charter, was “omnes proventus
capellae, in castello de Colcestria,” which endowment is described in a
confirmation by Richard I. (1 R. I.) as “capellam castelii Colcestre, cum
decimis et obventionibus,” explained by Morant to have consisted in tythes
of certain lands in and about the town.
Eudo’s rank, as an Essex and Colchester land owner and the king’s
representative in the town, might very well induce him to erect a castle
there. The position was a good one for a district destitute of any very
striking inequalities of surface. It was within the Roman area, and covered
on two sides by the Coln. The ancient wall, originally Roman, had been
repaired by Edward the Elder, and included the town and the proposed site.
A legendary document, quoted in the Monasticon [i. 724], states that Eudo
built the castle on King Cole’s foundation; “in fundo palatii Coelis
quondam regis,” which may be taken to show that there was an older
building on the spot. If so it must have been Roman. Most of the chief
towns in England contained a castle constructed long before the arrival of
the Conqueror, though not a building of stone, and of these strong places
the king or some great Norman baron usually availed himself, substituting,
as occasion served, Norman masonry for the earlier and less perfect
defences. Sometimes the castle was within the circuit of the town, as at
Chichester, Chester, Leicester, and Lincoln, Roman cities with English
additions; sometimes it was outside the town wall, but abutting upon it, as
belonged to the ducal not the royal court, for the sewer of England,
according to Spelman, was the brother of Robert Fitz Hamon of Morganwg,
who appears in the Survey in Colchester and elsewhere as “Hamo Dapifer.”
It is related that in consequence of the high character borne by Eudo the
burgesses of Colchester moved William Rufus to place him in charge of
their town. That he was so placed appears from a document quoted by
Dugdale, and his connexion with the place is shown by the Pipe Roll of 31
Henry I., in which, among other entries relating to Colchester, are items for
“the lordship of the king’s ploughlands of the land of Eudo Dapifer, 8s.
10d.,” and from “the farm of his land, paid into the treasury, £91. 3s. 0d.”
This was after Eudo’s death, when Hamo de Clare was in charge. As the
crown held the lion’s share of the town, Eudo’s position there must have
been supreme. His first step was probably to build a castle, and upon his
own land, for when in 1096 he founded St. John’s Abbey, one of its
endowments, specified in the foundation charter, was “omnes proventus
capellae, in castello de Colcestria,” which endowment is described in a
confirmation by Richard I. (1 R. I.) as “capellam castelii Colcestre, cum
decimis et obventionibus,” explained by Morant to have consisted in tythes
of certain lands in and about the town.
Eudo’s rank, as an Essex and Colchester land owner and the king’s
representative in the town, might very well induce him to erect a castle
there. The position was a good one for a district destitute of any very
striking inequalities of surface. It was within the Roman area, and covered
on two sides by the Coln. The ancient wall, originally Roman, had been
repaired by Edward the Elder, and included the town and the proposed site.
A legendary document, quoted in the Monasticon [i. 724], states that Eudo
built the castle on King Cole’s foundation; “in fundo palatii Coelis
quondam regis,” which may be taken to show that there was an older
building on the spot. If so it must have been Roman. Most of the chief
towns in England contained a castle constructed long before the arrival of
the Conqueror, though not a building of stone, and of these strong places
the king or some great Norman baron usually availed himself, substituting,
as occasion served, Norman masonry for the earlier and less perfect
defences. Sometimes the castle was within the circuit of the town, as at
Chichester, Chester, Leicester, and Lincoln, Roman cities with English
additions; sometimes it was outside the town wall, but abutting upon it, as
Page 513
at Carlisle, Warwick, and Winchester. In each case the castle had its own
proper defences, so that while, on the one hand, it could be held with the
town against a common foe, on the other it could be held against the town,
and used to overawe the citizens. Here the castle was placed within the
Roman area, in its north-eastern quarter, and stood, not improbably, on the
site of some considerable Roman building, to which the existing, but not
accessible, sewers are thought to have belonged.
Eudo died in 1120 at his castle of Preaux in Normandy, and was buried
here at St. John’s. He lived, therefore, twenty-four years after his religious
foundation, and somewhat more than that time after the construction of his
castle. He was also the founder, some time in the reign of Henry I., of the
hospital of St. Mary Magdalen, in the suburbs of Colchester. He married
Rohaise, whom Dugdale in his Baronage, citing Will. of Jumièges, calls the
daughter of Walter Giffard, Earl of Buckingham, and widow of Fitz Gilbert,
an error which, admitted into the earlier, is corrected in the later edition of
the Monasticon, whence it appears that Rohaise was the daughter of Fitz
Gilbert and a preceding Rohaise, and was married to Eudo in her nonage,
“ante habiles annos nupta est.” She laid the second stone of St. John’s, Eudo
himself laying the first. The issue of this marriage was Margaret, Eudo’s
sole heiress, who married William de Magnaville, and was mother of
Geoffrey Earl of Essex, and in her right seneschal or sewer of Normandy.
Geoffrey, who played his cards to great advantage between Stephen and the
Empress Maud, received from the latter the lands of Eudo Dapifer in
Normandy, with the office of Dapifer, and an option, under certain
circumstances, of the lands of which Eudo died seized in England. These,
however, he does not seem to have obtained; in the contemporary Pipe
Rolls they are accounted for as in the Crown, and they do not appear in the
Inquisitions on Geoffrey’s descendants.
The castle, which from the endowment of its chapel must certainly have
belonged to Eudo, came into the possession of the Crown. Morant cites a
grant of it by Maud to Alberic de Vere, from an early edition of the Fœdera
(xiii. 251), but there is no such deed in the later or the latest edition. He also
cites a deed in his own possession, of the reign of Richard or John, showing
that with other demesne manors the castle of Colchester and the Hundred
were in the king’s hands, and in the custody of the sheriff of Essex. In
Stowe’s Annals mention is made of a certain Hubert de St. Clare who
proper defences, so that while, on the one hand, it could be held with the
town against a common foe, on the other it could be held against the town,
and used to overawe the citizens. Here the castle was placed within the
Roman area, in its north-eastern quarter, and stood, not improbably, on the
site of some considerable Roman building, to which the existing, but not
accessible, sewers are thought to have belonged.
Eudo died in 1120 at his castle of Preaux in Normandy, and was buried
here at St. John’s. He lived, therefore, twenty-four years after his religious
foundation, and somewhat more than that time after the construction of his
castle. He was also the founder, some time in the reign of Henry I., of the
hospital of St. Mary Magdalen, in the suburbs of Colchester. He married
Rohaise, whom Dugdale in his Baronage, citing Will. of Jumièges, calls the
daughter of Walter Giffard, Earl of Buckingham, and widow of Fitz Gilbert,
an error which, admitted into the earlier, is corrected in the later edition of
the Monasticon, whence it appears that Rohaise was the daughter of Fitz
Gilbert and a preceding Rohaise, and was married to Eudo in her nonage,
“ante habiles annos nupta est.” She laid the second stone of St. John’s, Eudo
himself laying the first. The issue of this marriage was Margaret, Eudo’s
sole heiress, who married William de Magnaville, and was mother of
Geoffrey Earl of Essex, and in her right seneschal or sewer of Normandy.
Geoffrey, who played his cards to great advantage between Stephen and the
Empress Maud, received from the latter the lands of Eudo Dapifer in
Normandy, with the office of Dapifer, and an option, under certain
circumstances, of the lands of which Eudo died seized in England. These,
however, he does not seem to have obtained; in the contemporary Pipe
Rolls they are accounted for as in the Crown, and they do not appear in the
Inquisitions on Geoffrey’s descendants.
The castle, which from the endowment of its chapel must certainly have
belonged to Eudo, came into the possession of the Crown. Morant cites a
grant of it by Maud to Alberic de Vere, from an early edition of the Fœdera
(xiii. 251), but there is no such deed in the later or the latest edition. He also
cites a deed in his own possession, of the reign of Richard or John, showing
that with other demesne manors the castle of Colchester and the Hundred
were in the king’s hands, and in the custody of the sheriff of Essex. In
Stowe’s Annals mention is made of a certain Hubert de St. Clare who
Page 514
warded off an arrow from Henry I. at the siege of Bridgenorth in 1165 at the
cost of his own life, and whom Stowe calls Constable of Colchester, and
adds that the king gave his daughter to William de Lanvalai. William, who
was an Essex baron, certainly obtained the Constableship from King John
(2 John), by a payment of 200 marcs. He died 12 John, leaving William his
son, who was made Constable 17 John, but soon after joined the rebels. His
daughter Hawise was afterwards given in wardship to Hubert de Burgh,
who married her to his son John. King John visited the castle six times, in
1203, 1205, 1209, 1212, 1214, and 1216, staying three days during his two
penultimate visits, and eleven days during his last visit. In 1214 Stephen
Harengot was in charge in succession to Matthew Mantell; also Hugh de
Albemunt, carpenter, had an order for 23 marcs for work done, to which, in
1215, 20 marcs were added for repairs, and the burgesses were informed
that Harengot was responsible for the king’s rents. In April of that year
Harengot was to have timber from a wood near the town, for its defence,
“ad illam claudendam,” and Hugh de Neville was to permit the same. In
July, John’s suspicious character led him to substitute for Harengot William
de Lanvalai, who had married, as already stated, the daughter of a previous
Constable. In this year the castle was besieged and taken by Saher de
Quincy, who also burned the town. Both were afterwards recovered by King
John.
In March, 1216, is recorded a list of one hundred and thirteen persons,
knights, squires, and attendants, cross-bowmen and foot-soldiers, from their
names probably French mercenaries, to whom the king gave a safe conduct
for a passage from the castle of Colchester to London. In April Harengot
was again in charge, and in August he had a credit for 100 marcs out of a
fine due of a thousand. This was for the payment of the garrison of the
castle. In November, 1217, Richard de Mont Fitchet was ordered to give
William, Bishop of London, seizin of Kingsworth wood belonging to the
castle of Colchester, and to remove thence his own servants. In July, 1218,
the king’s bailiffs of Colchester were to respond for the farm of the town to
the bishop, as they had used to do when Harengot held the castle. The
bishop was at that time negotiating for the king with the French invaders,
who for a time actually held the castle. After John’s death the bishop
(October, 2 Henry III.) had a credit on the farm of Colchester for £20
expended “in waristura” (munition) for the castle. In 1222 the sheriff of
Essex, then in charge, was to transport certain timber, cut by the Constable
cost of his own life, and whom Stowe calls Constable of Colchester, and
adds that the king gave his daughter to William de Lanvalai. William, who
was an Essex baron, certainly obtained the Constableship from King John
(2 John), by a payment of 200 marcs. He died 12 John, leaving William his
son, who was made Constable 17 John, but soon after joined the rebels. His
daughter Hawise was afterwards given in wardship to Hubert de Burgh,
who married her to his son John. King John visited the castle six times, in
1203, 1205, 1209, 1212, 1214, and 1216, staying three days during his two
penultimate visits, and eleven days during his last visit. In 1214 Stephen
Harengot was in charge in succession to Matthew Mantell; also Hugh de
Albemunt, carpenter, had an order for 23 marcs for work done, to which, in
1215, 20 marcs were added for repairs, and the burgesses were informed
that Harengot was responsible for the king’s rents. In April of that year
Harengot was to have timber from a wood near the town, for its defence,
“ad illam claudendam,” and Hugh de Neville was to permit the same. In
July, John’s suspicious character led him to substitute for Harengot William
de Lanvalai, who had married, as already stated, the daughter of a previous
Constable. In this year the castle was besieged and taken by Saher de
Quincy, who also burned the town. Both were afterwards recovered by King
John.
In March, 1216, is recorded a list of one hundred and thirteen persons,
knights, squires, and attendants, cross-bowmen and foot-soldiers, from their
names probably French mercenaries, to whom the king gave a safe conduct
for a passage from the castle of Colchester to London. In April Harengot
was again in charge, and in August he had a credit for 100 marcs out of a
fine due of a thousand. This was for the payment of the garrison of the
castle. In November, 1217, Richard de Mont Fitchet was ordered to give
William, Bishop of London, seizin of Kingsworth wood belonging to the
castle of Colchester, and to remove thence his own servants. In July, 1218,
the king’s bailiffs of Colchester were to respond for the farm of the town to
the bishop, as they had used to do when Harengot held the castle. The
bishop was at that time negotiating for the king with the French invaders,
who for a time actually held the castle. After John’s death the bishop
(October, 2 Henry III.) had a credit on the farm of Colchester for £20
expended “in waristura” (munition) for the castle. In 1222 the sheriff of
Essex, then in charge, was to transport certain timber, cut by the Constable
Page 515
of Dover Castle, to the port of Colchester. In January, 1223, the bailiffs of
the town had credit from the Exchequer for 100s. advanced by them to the
Constable of the castle. The Exchequer seems to have guarded the revenue
closely, for in 1224 the Bishop of London is called upon to refund £20 paid
to William, late Bishop of London, for the repairs of the king’s castle of
Colchester. In April, 1225, the Prud-hommes, “probi homines,” of
Colchester are to hand over the farm of the town to the Constable for the
repairs of the castle. The Bishop of London seems occasionally to have had
charge, for in 1227 he is ordered to send to the king some person who may
be trusted to deliver over the castle from the bishop to the king.
Hubert de Burgh seems at one time, with the wardship of Hawise de
Lanvalai, to have held the Constableship of the castle; so that though not
actually hereditary, some regard seems to have been had to descent. De
Burgh was dispossessed in 1232, and was succeeded by Stephen de
Segrave, and he by Thomas de Clare, who was Constable in 1265–6, when
12 June, 1256, Henry III. granted the castle and the fee-farm of the town to
Guy de Montfort for life, he maintaining the castle in repair. He was one of
Henry’s unpopular foreign favourites, and was deprived in 1258. William
de Wayland followed, who, 18 December, 1273, resigned it to John de
Burgh, the last who held the office with any shadow of hereditary claim. In
1275 it was held by Richard de Holebrook, and immediately afterwards the
castle became the county prison, in charge of the sheriff, and ceased to
possess any military value. In 1347 some of the prisoners taken in France
were lodged at Colchester; no doubt in the castle.
The Constable of the castle was also steward of the hundred of Tendring,
and bailiff of the same, holding courts for the several manors composing it.
The castle was perfectly independent of the town, and like most castles so
situated was extra-parochial, and had a separate jurisdiction. Seventeen
manors were appendant to it, and paid suit and service at its court. In
matters spiritual it was connected with St. John’s. It appears from an
Exchequer judgment in 1290, that the abbots of St. John, who received the
tythes forming the endowment of the castle chapel, were wont to provide a
chaplain, who celebrated the offices three days in each week, either in St.
Helen’s Chapel or in the King’s Chapel in the castle, as the Constable might
direct. Long afterwards the abbot was fined 12 marcs for having neglected
this duty. St. Helen’s Chapel stood, and indeed, though desecrated, still
the town had credit from the Exchequer for 100s. advanced by them to the
Constable of the castle. The Exchequer seems to have guarded the revenue
closely, for in 1224 the Bishop of London is called upon to refund £20 paid
to William, late Bishop of London, for the repairs of the king’s castle of
Colchester. In April, 1225, the Prud-hommes, “probi homines,” of
Colchester are to hand over the farm of the town to the Constable for the
repairs of the castle. The Bishop of London seems occasionally to have had
charge, for in 1227 he is ordered to send to the king some person who may
be trusted to deliver over the castle from the bishop to the king.
Hubert de Burgh seems at one time, with the wardship of Hawise de
Lanvalai, to have held the Constableship of the castle; so that though not
actually hereditary, some regard seems to have been had to descent. De
Burgh was dispossessed in 1232, and was succeeded by Stephen de
Segrave, and he by Thomas de Clare, who was Constable in 1265–6, when
12 June, 1256, Henry III. granted the castle and the fee-farm of the town to
Guy de Montfort for life, he maintaining the castle in repair. He was one of
Henry’s unpopular foreign favourites, and was deprived in 1258. William
de Wayland followed, who, 18 December, 1273, resigned it to John de
Burgh, the last who held the office with any shadow of hereditary claim. In
1275 it was held by Richard de Holebrook, and immediately afterwards the
castle became the county prison, in charge of the sheriff, and ceased to
possess any military value. In 1347 some of the prisoners taken in France
were lodged at Colchester; no doubt in the castle.
The Constable of the castle was also steward of the hundred of Tendring,
and bailiff of the same, holding courts for the several manors composing it.
The castle was perfectly independent of the town, and like most castles so
situated was extra-parochial, and had a separate jurisdiction. Seventeen
manors were appendant to it, and paid suit and service at its court. In
matters spiritual it was connected with St. John’s. It appears from an
Exchequer judgment in 1290, that the abbots of St. John, who received the
tythes forming the endowment of the castle chapel, were wont to provide a
chaplain, who celebrated the offices three days in each week, either in St.
Helen’s Chapel or in the King’s Chapel in the castle, as the Constable might
direct. Long afterwards the abbot was fined 12 marcs for having neglected
this duty. St. Helen’s Chapel stood, and indeed, though desecrated, still
Page 516
stands about 100 yards north-east of the keep, and just outside the line of
the castle wall.
As the castle ceased to possess any military value it was from time to
time granted away to various persons. Henry Duke of Lancaster, son of
Henry IV., had it in 1404. Henry VI. gave it to his queen, and Sir John
Howard had it for life from Edward IV. In those days about 160 acres of
land passed with the castle. In 1496–1509 it was held by John Earl of
Oxford. Its final alienation was by James I., who gave it in fee, in 1629, to
Hay, Earl of Carlisle. The immense thickness of its wall and its central
position led to its being held for Charles in the war with the Parliament,
when its commander was Sir Charles Lucas, a member of a local royalist
family, and the descendant of the grantee of St. John’s Abbey lands. The
siege and capture by Fairfax and the subsequent military executions are
well-known matters of history. The enceinte wall was probably then pulled
down, and the castle rendered untenable. Soon afterwards what remained
was sold to a person named Wheeley, who attempted to pull down the keep,
with only partial success. Since then it has been in the Gray and Round
families, and has been properly cared for, as indeed it still is.
DESCRIPTION.
The keep, the only remaining portion of the castle, is a peculiar and, in
many respects, a very remarkable structure; remarkable for the unusually
large area which it covers; for its want, even in its original state, of a
proportionate height; for the arrangement and design of its parts and details;
for the materials of which it is composed; and for the workmanship by
which they are put together. Not only is its origin disputed, but the purpose
for which it was constructed is still the subject of a controversy, the
settlement of which can only be effected by the internal evidence afforded
by the building itself, the minute details of which possess on that account
peculiar interest.
It is in plan rectangular, and, at its interior ground-level, which is also,
very nearly, that of the top of its exterior spreading plinth, it measures,
exclusive of its six projections, 152 feet north and south, by 111 feet east
and west, and with its projections 171 feet by 146 feet. The two northern
angles are capped by two rectangular turrets, of which the north-west is on
the castle wall.
As the castle ceased to possess any military value it was from time to
time granted away to various persons. Henry Duke of Lancaster, son of
Henry IV., had it in 1404. Henry VI. gave it to his queen, and Sir John
Howard had it for life from Edward IV. In those days about 160 acres of
land passed with the castle. In 1496–1509 it was held by John Earl of
Oxford. Its final alienation was by James I., who gave it in fee, in 1629, to
Hay, Earl of Carlisle. The immense thickness of its wall and its central
position led to its being held for Charles in the war with the Parliament,
when its commander was Sir Charles Lucas, a member of a local royalist
family, and the descendant of the grantee of St. John’s Abbey lands. The
siege and capture by Fairfax and the subsequent military executions are
well-known matters of history. The enceinte wall was probably then pulled
down, and the castle rendered untenable. Soon afterwards what remained
was sold to a person named Wheeley, who attempted to pull down the keep,
with only partial success. Since then it has been in the Gray and Round
families, and has been properly cared for, as indeed it still is.
DESCRIPTION.
The keep, the only remaining portion of the castle, is a peculiar and, in
many respects, a very remarkable structure; remarkable for the unusually
large area which it covers; for its want, even in its original state, of a
proportionate height; for the arrangement and design of its parts and details;
for the materials of which it is composed; and for the workmanship by
which they are put together. Not only is its origin disputed, but the purpose
for which it was constructed is still the subject of a controversy, the
settlement of which can only be effected by the internal evidence afforded
by the building itself, the minute details of which possess on that account
peculiar interest.
It is in plan rectangular, and, at its interior ground-level, which is also,
very nearly, that of the top of its exterior spreading plinth, it measures,
exclusive of its six projections, 152 feet north and south, by 111 feet east
and west, and with its projections 171 feet by 146 feet. The two northern
angles are capped by two rectangular turrets, of which the north-west is on
Page 517
the west face 29 feet broad with 8 feet projection, and on the north face 30
feet with 8 feet projection. The north-east turret is 29 feet on the east and 27
feet on the north face, with projections of 8 feet. The south-west turret
projects from the south end of the west wall 14 feet, and has a breadth of 40
feet. The south-east turret occupies a similar position on the east front, but
is in plan a half-circle with a diameter or breadth of 50 feet, and a
projection of 25 feet. The south wall has a buttress on its face at each end.
That at the east end is 20 feet broad by 8 feet projection, and that at the west
end 12 feet broad by 8 feet projection. This latter protects the entrance.
On the longer or east and west faces are two intermediate pilasters 8 feet
broad by a foot projection, and on the north face one pilaster 8 feet broad by
18 inches projection. Against the semicircular turret are placed four
pilasters 4 feet 10 inches broad by a foot projection, and at the springing
two half pilasters 2 feet 5 inches broad. Turrets, buttresses, and pilasters,
with one exception, rise to the present summit unbroken by set-off or string-
course. The exception is the north-west turret, which, at the first-floor level,
is reduced on its north face from 30 feet to 24 feet, the 6 feet forming a
shelf or landing for an entrance door. The plinth is carried round the
building and capped by a plain chamfer. Below this the walls spread
laterally inside and outside, until at a depth of some 30 feet they have a base
of about 30 feet. The part above ground was cased with ashlar which has
been stripped off. This excessive depth and breadth of foundation is very
unusual. The two northern turrets are solid to the first-floor level, as are the
two southern buttresses, one indeed being solid throughout. The south-west
turret contains a well-staircase which ascends from the basement to the
summit. The south-east turret contains a crypt at its ground-level.
The space within the walls, measuring 126 feet by 87 feet, was unequally
subdivided. A portion, in width from 36 to 40 feet broad, was walled off at
the south end and occupied as an entrance passage, a well-chamber, a prison
vault, and the crypt beneath the chapel. The space northwards was again
subdivided into an east, west, and middle compartment by two walls
running north and south. The eastern compartment, 91 feet by 22 feet, was
aired rather than lighted by three loops in the east and one in the north wall.
One of these loops was in the last century converted into a door, but has
since been walled up. The central loop is now a door. In the south end a
small doorway leads into the crypt. This compartment was entered by a
feet with 8 feet projection. The north-east turret is 29 feet on the east and 27
feet on the north face, with projections of 8 feet. The south-west turret
projects from the south end of the west wall 14 feet, and has a breadth of 40
feet. The south-east turret occupies a similar position on the east front, but
is in plan a half-circle with a diameter or breadth of 50 feet, and a
projection of 25 feet. The south wall has a buttress on its face at each end.
That at the east end is 20 feet broad by 8 feet projection, and that at the west
end 12 feet broad by 8 feet projection. This latter protects the entrance.
On the longer or east and west faces are two intermediate pilasters 8 feet
broad by a foot projection, and on the north face one pilaster 8 feet broad by
18 inches projection. Against the semicircular turret are placed four
pilasters 4 feet 10 inches broad by a foot projection, and at the springing
two half pilasters 2 feet 5 inches broad. Turrets, buttresses, and pilasters,
with one exception, rise to the present summit unbroken by set-off or string-
course. The exception is the north-west turret, which, at the first-floor level,
is reduced on its north face from 30 feet to 24 feet, the 6 feet forming a
shelf or landing for an entrance door. The plinth is carried round the
building and capped by a plain chamfer. Below this the walls spread
laterally inside and outside, until at a depth of some 30 feet they have a base
of about 30 feet. The part above ground was cased with ashlar which has
been stripped off. This excessive depth and breadth of foundation is very
unusual. The two northern turrets are solid to the first-floor level, as are the
two southern buttresses, one indeed being solid throughout. The south-west
turret contains a well-staircase which ascends from the basement to the
summit. The south-east turret contains a crypt at its ground-level.
The space within the walls, measuring 126 feet by 87 feet, was unequally
subdivided. A portion, in width from 36 to 40 feet broad, was walled off at
the south end and occupied as an entrance passage, a well-chamber, a prison
vault, and the crypt beneath the chapel. The space northwards was again
subdivided into an east, west, and middle compartment by two walls
running north and south. The eastern compartment, 91 feet by 22 feet, was
aired rather than lighted by three loops in the east and one in the north wall.
One of these loops was in the last century converted into a door, but has
since been walled up. The central loop is now a door. In the south end a
small doorway leads into the crypt. This compartment was entered by a
Page 518
doorway in the cross wall, 3 feet 9 inches broad, but having a rebate for a
door. The wall is 7 feet thick. The middle compartment was 80 feet long by
15 feet broad, but its western wall, which was 7 feet thick, was removed, it
is said, in 1683. A trace of it remains at the south end, and at the north end a
projection in the wall shows that the door of communication was at that
end. This compartment has a single loop in its north end, and in its south
end a doorway leading into the prison vault.
The western or larger compartment from which the others were entered
was 90 feet long by 36 feet broad. It had a loop in its north end, and three in
its west side. In its south wall was probably the inner doorway
corresponding to the main entrance. It is said that there exists a pit or drain
beneath the floor of this chamber, a sewer from which, of Roman
construction, passes westward through the wall towards the river. The loops
throughout this ground floor are of one pattern. They are round-headed, 6
inches wide, in the end of a splayed recess which opens by a set-off into a
flat-sided recess 7 feet wide and 3 feet 6 inches deep. These recesses are
round-headed, and rise from the floor-level about 12 feet. The recess and
the arched head are constructed mainly of tiles. The set-off or reveal is of
ashlar. All the arches throughout, of both doors and recesses, are round-
headed. The three compartments were covered in with whole timber joists
supporting the floor of the upper chamber. The ground floor was about 15
feet high, and, save the vault and crypt, seems to have been intended for
stores.
The main entrance is on this floor, at the west end of the south side. A
doorway of 7 feet 7 inches opening was flanked on each side by two niched
columns with plain bases and capitals, with stiff foliage of Norman
character. Above the capitals is a plain chamfered abacus. The head is
composed of three members, each a bold roll or bead. The two inner
members spring from above the capitals, the outer member, with a dripstone
worked in two bands of half-circles, springs from the abacus alone. The
abacus is stopped within the portal by a square groove for a portcullis,
probably of iron, behind which is a rebate for a door with a hole for a stout
wooden bar. Five or six steps, now concealed or gone, led up to this
doorway, nor are there any traces of a drawbridge. Within the portal, in the
wall, here 14 feet thick, on the left, is a small round-headed niche, the flat
sides and back of which are carved with low bas-reliefs of certain bishops
door. The wall is 7 feet thick. The middle compartment was 80 feet long by
15 feet broad, but its western wall, which was 7 feet thick, was removed, it
is said, in 1683. A trace of it remains at the south end, and at the north end a
projection in the wall shows that the door of communication was at that
end. This compartment has a single loop in its north end, and in its south
end a doorway leading into the prison vault.
The western or larger compartment from which the others were entered
was 90 feet long by 36 feet broad. It had a loop in its north end, and three in
its west side. In its south wall was probably the inner doorway
corresponding to the main entrance. It is said that there exists a pit or drain
beneath the floor of this chamber, a sewer from which, of Roman
construction, passes westward through the wall towards the river. The loops
throughout this ground floor are of one pattern. They are round-headed, 6
inches wide, in the end of a splayed recess which opens by a set-off into a
flat-sided recess 7 feet wide and 3 feet 6 inches deep. These recesses are
round-headed, and rise from the floor-level about 12 feet. The recess and
the arched head are constructed mainly of tiles. The set-off or reveal is of
ashlar. All the arches throughout, of both doors and recesses, are round-
headed. The three compartments were covered in with whole timber joists
supporting the floor of the upper chamber. The ground floor was about 15
feet high, and, save the vault and crypt, seems to have been intended for
stores.
The main entrance is on this floor, at the west end of the south side. A
doorway of 7 feet 7 inches opening was flanked on each side by two niched
columns with plain bases and capitals, with stiff foliage of Norman
character. Above the capitals is a plain chamfered abacus. The head is
composed of three members, each a bold roll or bead. The two inner
members spring from above the capitals, the outer member, with a dripstone
worked in two bands of half-circles, springs from the abacus alone. The
abacus is stopped within the portal by a square groove for a portcullis,
probably of iron, behind which is a rebate for a door with a hole for a stout
wooden bar. Five or six steps, now concealed or gone, led up to this
doorway, nor are there any traces of a drawbridge. Within the portal, in the
wall, here 14 feet thick, on the left, is a small round-headed niche, the flat
sides and back of which are carved with low bas-reliefs of certain bishops
Page 519
and saints, including St. Christopher. They are fairly executed, and probably
the work of some ingenious porter.
COLCHESTER CASTLE.
Wyman & Sons, Gᵗ. Queen Sᵗ. London.
The door opens into a lobby or entrance passage 12 feet broad by 36 feet
long. The right-hand wall is an open arcade, modern, but probably
representing an older wall, shutting off the well-chamber. The south end is
now open, but was crossed by a wall 10 feet thick, which no doubt
contained the inner door leading into the great ground-floor chamber. On
the left is first the door of the great staircase, then a niche 8 feet broad and 9
the work of some ingenious porter.
COLCHESTER CASTLE.
Wyman & Sons, Gᵗ. Queen Sᵗ. London.
The door opens into a lobby or entrance passage 12 feet broad by 36 feet
long. The right-hand wall is an open arcade, modern, but probably
representing an older wall, shutting off the well-chamber. The south end is
now open, but was crossed by a wall 10 feet thick, which no doubt
contained the inner door leading into the great ground-floor chamber. On
the left is first the door of the great staircase, then a niche 8 feet broad and 9
Page 520
feet high and 7 feet deep, and semi-domed. A short passage, vaulted and
groined, leads into the great staircase, a cylinder 16 feet diameter, with a
newel of 2 feet. It has loops to the south and west, and forty-seven steps
lead to the present summit. At the twenty-third step a passage with three
steps branches off to the first floor.
The well-chamber, 15 feet by 26 feet, contains the well, now closed by a
pump. It is 5 feet diameter and 65 feet deep, and was lined with ashlar, of
which the upper part has been stripped off. The well was discovered in the
last century. It is said that in it was observed a lateral culvert, intended as a
waste-pipe to carry off any overflow that might otherwise injure the
foundations. In the south wall was a recess 8 feet broad and 7 feet deep,
round-headed and semi-domed, now a window. Probably the buckets stood
in it. Here also a modern stair descends to the vaults. The well-chamber is
not vaulted. Next east, separated by a wall 9 feet thick, is the prison; this is
a barrel-vaulted chamber 15 feet by 30 feet, entered from the middle
compartment by a doorway of 3 feet opening; it supports the ante-chapel.
East again of this vault a wall, 13 feet thick, divides it from the crypt. The
western part of the crypt, the cross limb of the T, is rectangular, 14 feet by
28 feet, vaulted and groined, and entered from the eastern compartment; it
has a loop in its south wall. The stem of the T is the crypt proper, 31 feet
long by 14 feet broad and 14 feet high to the crown of its barrel vault. Its
east end is semicircular and semi-domed. A loop in the centre of the apse
has been converted into a window. In this crypt is said to be a drain falling
southwards towards the river. This completes the account of the ground
floor.
From the staircase a door opens into the lobby above the entrance
passage, and which was probably of the same size. At present the east and
north walls are modern. The south end of this lobby is occupied by a flat-
sided and flat-backed recess, 10 feet broad, 10 feet deep, and about 12 feet
high, which has a chink or chase in its floor for the passage of the portcullis.
As the recess is wider than the grate there are no lateral grooves. Above is a
cavity where was inserted the ring or hook whence the grate was suspended.
On the left of the staircase door is a smaller door, which opens into a
garderobe which shares the turret with the staircase. It is 15 feet 6 inches
long by 10 feet 4 inches broad, barrel-vaulted, with loops to the west and
groined, leads into the great staircase, a cylinder 16 feet diameter, with a
newel of 2 feet. It has loops to the south and west, and forty-seven steps
lead to the present summit. At the twenty-third step a passage with three
steps branches off to the first floor.
The well-chamber, 15 feet by 26 feet, contains the well, now closed by a
pump. It is 5 feet diameter and 65 feet deep, and was lined with ashlar, of
which the upper part has been stripped off. The well was discovered in the
last century. It is said that in it was observed a lateral culvert, intended as a
waste-pipe to carry off any overflow that might otherwise injure the
foundations. In the south wall was a recess 8 feet broad and 7 feet deep,
round-headed and semi-domed, now a window. Probably the buckets stood
in it. Here also a modern stair descends to the vaults. The well-chamber is
not vaulted. Next east, separated by a wall 9 feet thick, is the prison; this is
a barrel-vaulted chamber 15 feet by 30 feet, entered from the middle
compartment by a doorway of 3 feet opening; it supports the ante-chapel.
East again of this vault a wall, 13 feet thick, divides it from the crypt. The
western part of the crypt, the cross limb of the T, is rectangular, 14 feet by
28 feet, vaulted and groined, and entered from the eastern compartment; it
has a loop in its south wall. The stem of the T is the crypt proper, 31 feet
long by 14 feet broad and 14 feet high to the crown of its barrel vault. Its
east end is semicircular and semi-domed. A loop in the centre of the apse
has been converted into a window. In this crypt is said to be a drain falling
southwards towards the river. This completes the account of the ground
floor.
From the staircase a door opens into the lobby above the entrance
passage, and which was probably of the same size. At present the east and
north walls are modern. The south end of this lobby is occupied by a flat-
sided and flat-backed recess, 10 feet broad, 10 feet deep, and about 12 feet
high, which has a chink or chase in its floor for the passage of the portcullis.
As the recess is wider than the grate there are no lateral grooves. Above is a
cavity where was inserted the ring or hook whence the grate was suspended.
On the left of the staircase door is a smaller door, which opens into a
garderobe which shares the turret with the staircase. It is 15 feet 6 inches
long by 10 feet 4 inches broad, barrel-vaulted, with loops to the west and
Page 521
north, and beneath each a seat and a shoot in the wall. The loops have been
enlarged into windows, and the chamber is used as a record-room. Outside,
in the north wall of the turret, close to its junction with the curtain, is a bold
deep bracket, composed of seven stones and a tile, at the top projecting
about a foot, which may have supported the shaft of a garderobe from the
battlements, or may have been connected with some sort of bretasche or
timber erection. Its use is not clear. The east wall of the lobby divides it
from the modern library, which stands over the ancient ante-chapel, and was
probably the principal private apartment in the keep. It had three recesses,
no doubt with loops, in its south walls. Two are now windows, and one a
fireplace. Outside this chamber, to the north, is a modern corridor, the space
of which was apparently a part of the ante-chapel. In its east wall is a
round-backed niche 10 feet broad, through which a passage has been
broken, most injudiciously, into the chapel. From the ante-chapel a lofty
round-headed doorway opened into the west end of the chapel.
The chapel is composed of a nave and apse, and of four lateral recesses
or side chapels. It is in length 45 feet and in breadth 15 feet, and 17 feet 6
inches high to the crown of its barrel vault. The apse is semicircular and
semi-domed, of the same height with the nave. The westernmost pair of
recesses are 14 feet wide and 12 feet deep, with semi-domed ends. The
eastern pair are 11 feet wide and 11 feet and 14 feet deep, and both semi-
domed. In the east wall of the south recess is a niche as for a side altar. The
lateral vaults are accommodated to the main vault. The groins or lines of
intersection are plain. The apse has a central recess, now a window, and two
lateral smaller recesses with loops, unaltered. As the walls are everywhere
very thick and the five original apertures could not have exceeded eight
inches, the chapel must have been more than usually dark. It contains no
ornamentation of any kind, not even an abacus or plinth. The masonry
appears to be rubble of a very ordinary character. It is thickly plastered.
This is a very curious and rare example of a castle chapel.
The first floor, north of the chapel and the entrance lobby, is divided into
a larger west and a smaller east chamber. The eastern chamber is 21 feet by
88 feet, the western 61 feet by 100 feet, the increase of size over the lower
area being due to a slight reduction in the thickness of the walls.
The eastern chamber is entered from the western by a doorway in the
dividing wall. In its north end is a loop, in its east wall two fireplaces; north
enlarged into windows, and the chamber is used as a record-room. Outside,
in the north wall of the turret, close to its junction with the curtain, is a bold
deep bracket, composed of seven stones and a tile, at the top projecting
about a foot, which may have supported the shaft of a garderobe from the
battlements, or may have been connected with some sort of bretasche or
timber erection. Its use is not clear. The east wall of the lobby divides it
from the modern library, which stands over the ancient ante-chapel, and was
probably the principal private apartment in the keep. It had three recesses,
no doubt with loops, in its south walls. Two are now windows, and one a
fireplace. Outside this chamber, to the north, is a modern corridor, the space
of which was apparently a part of the ante-chapel. In its east wall is a
round-backed niche 10 feet broad, through which a passage has been
broken, most injudiciously, into the chapel. From the ante-chapel a lofty
round-headed doorway opened into the west end of the chapel.
The chapel is composed of a nave and apse, and of four lateral recesses
or side chapels. It is in length 45 feet and in breadth 15 feet, and 17 feet 6
inches high to the crown of its barrel vault. The apse is semicircular and
semi-domed, of the same height with the nave. The westernmost pair of
recesses are 14 feet wide and 12 feet deep, with semi-domed ends. The
eastern pair are 11 feet wide and 11 feet and 14 feet deep, and both semi-
domed. In the east wall of the south recess is a niche as for a side altar. The
lateral vaults are accommodated to the main vault. The groins or lines of
intersection are plain. The apse has a central recess, now a window, and two
lateral smaller recesses with loops, unaltered. As the walls are everywhere
very thick and the five original apertures could not have exceeded eight
inches, the chapel must have been more than usually dark. It contains no
ornamentation of any kind, not even an abacus or plinth. The masonry
appears to be rubble of a very ordinary character. It is thickly plastered.
This is a very curious and rare example of a castle chapel.
The first floor, north of the chapel and the entrance lobby, is divided into
a larger west and a smaller east chamber. The eastern chamber is 21 feet by
88 feet, the western 61 feet by 100 feet, the increase of size over the lower
area being due to a slight reduction in the thickness of the walls.
The eastern chamber is entered from the western by a doorway in the
dividing wall. In its north end is a loop, in its east wall two fireplaces; north
Page 522
of the one are two loops and one south of the other; between them is a
fourth loop and a mural garderobe. This chamber, 3 feet 6 inches by 9 feet 3
inches, has an eastern recess 3 feet wide, and in it a small loop beneath
which is the seat, and a shoot opening in the wall. There are two doors
opening from the main chamber 3 feet 3 inches apart. It is probable that the
chamber was divided by a partition of wood, so that there was a fireplace in
each room, and the garderobe was common to the two, with a door opening
from each. The north-east turret here contains a vaulted chamber, 13 feet by
10 feet and 16 feet high. It has one loop to the north and two to the east,
now broken into one. In the west wall is an indication either of a fireplace
never completed, or of one walled up. This was probably a bedchamber.
The western chamber may possibly have been subdivided, like the lower
floor, by a wall raised upon that now removed; and an unequal space
between the loops in its north wall favours this view. More probably,
however, the wall was not so raised, and the irregular space may be caused
by a wish to keep the loops clear of the external pilaster. The chamber,
supposing it to have been of the full breadth, had four loops in the north
wall, and in the west wall two fireplaces, having two loops between and two
beyond each, six in all. The fireplaces are spacious, round-headed, with
rounded backs set with tiles on edge in herring-bone pattern. They stand in
a broad pilaster of a foot projection, and are quite plain. They are of tile, of
one pattern throughout, and at a height of about 14 feet the flue is stopped,
and divides into two branches which open in the face of the wall, one on
each side of the pilaster, in the hollow angle, as at Rochester and in the
Tower of London. These fireplaces do not seem to have had any hood. Over
one of them is a sort of weather moulding of tile, which looks as though
part of a hood, such as is still seen over the west door of St. Botolph’s
Church. There is, however, a second fragment on the jamb of the fireplace,
which could not be part of a hood. These are probably the remains of the
weather mouldings of the roofs of cottages built within the area of the keep
after the whole was gutted and laid open. The loops of this floor, like those
below, are of one pattern. A recess, 7 feet wide, flat-sided and round-
headed, commences at the floor-level and rises about 14 feet. At a depth of
3 feet 6 inches is a rebate or reveal, from which commences a splayed
recess, ending in a loop eight inches wide.
fourth loop and a mural garderobe. This chamber, 3 feet 6 inches by 9 feet 3
inches, has an eastern recess 3 feet wide, and in it a small loop beneath
which is the seat, and a shoot opening in the wall. There are two doors
opening from the main chamber 3 feet 3 inches apart. It is probable that the
chamber was divided by a partition of wood, so that there was a fireplace in
each room, and the garderobe was common to the two, with a door opening
from each. The north-east turret here contains a vaulted chamber, 13 feet by
10 feet and 16 feet high. It has one loop to the north and two to the east,
now broken into one. In the west wall is an indication either of a fireplace
never completed, or of one walled up. This was probably a bedchamber.
The western chamber may possibly have been subdivided, like the lower
floor, by a wall raised upon that now removed; and an unequal space
between the loops in its north wall favours this view. More probably,
however, the wall was not so raised, and the irregular space may be caused
by a wish to keep the loops clear of the external pilaster. The chamber,
supposing it to have been of the full breadth, had four loops in the north
wall, and in the west wall two fireplaces, having two loops between and two
beyond each, six in all. The fireplaces are spacious, round-headed, with
rounded backs set with tiles on edge in herring-bone pattern. They stand in
a broad pilaster of a foot projection, and are quite plain. They are of tile, of
one pattern throughout, and at a height of about 14 feet the flue is stopped,
and divides into two branches which open in the face of the wall, one on
each side of the pilaster, in the hollow angle, as at Rochester and in the
Tower of London. These fireplaces do not seem to have had any hood. Over
one of them is a sort of weather moulding of tile, which looks as though
part of a hood, such as is still seen over the west door of St. Botolph’s
Church. There is, however, a second fragment on the jamb of the fireplace,
which could not be part of a hood. These are probably the remains of the
weather mouldings of the roofs of cottages built within the area of the keep
after the whole was gutted and laid open. The loops of this floor, like those
below, are of one pattern. A recess, 7 feet wide, flat-sided and round-
headed, commences at the floor-level and rises about 14 feet. At a depth of
3 feet 6 inches is a rebate or reveal, from which commences a splayed
recess, ending in a loop eight inches wide.
Page 523
In the north wall, at its west end, is a plain doorway, and a recess
corresponding to a doorway in the outside of the wall, which opened upon
the shelf already mentioned, as in the east face of the north-west turret. This
shoulder formed a landing, 6 feet by 8 feet, whence a staircase descended
by a face of the wall to the ground. The walls show where the staircase was
let into it by the discontinuance of the regular coursing, but this also shows
the staircase to have been an afterthought. The original staircase was
probably of wood. The door has evidently been walled up from an early
period. In the west side of this doorway is a smaller lateral doorway
opening into a groined lobby, which leads into a staircase and a garderobe,
which occupy the north-west turret. The garderobe is 7 feet by 2 feet, with a
loop to the east and the seat and drain to the west, and in the north wall a
recess as for a lamp. A few feet south of the seat and its shoot a second
shoot is seen in the outer wall. This probably belonged to a garderobe in the
battlements, now gone. The staircase is a well, 6 feet diameter, of which
twenty-four steps remain. It evidently led from the first-floor level to the
summit. The fragment of the turret seems to show that the original height of
the wall was about 32 to 36 feet. This and the main staircase are cut short
by the removal of the upper 5 feet or 6 feet of the wall. They open upon the
present top of the wall, which has been levelled, and a slight battlement and
rear wall built to make the walk safe. There does not seem to have been a
second floor.
Many years ago, about 1683, the then proprietor of the castle,
ignominiously known as having removed the upper part of the walls and
gutted the interior of the building, discovered that a part of the ground floor
rested upon vaults. These he opened and examined, and they are still
accessible. The vaults are two in number, built side by side, each 22 feet
wide and 96 feet long. They are crossed by a wall 6 feet thick, and thus
formed into two vaults of 60 feet and two of 30 feet. The wall between them
is 8 feet thick. When discovered they were full of earth, so full that it was
evident the contents of the foundations had been heaped and used as a
centring, the arch being turned upon the earth or the stones laid upon it. Of
one vault the roof is flat, held up by the mere cohesion of the masonry.
These vaults had no original entrance, and were evidently works of
construction only, not intended to be used. Several breaches were made, so
that one vault can be entered from the other; and a breach was also made in
the north wall of the keep below the exterior ground-level, through which a
corresponding to a doorway in the outside of the wall, which opened upon
the shelf already mentioned, as in the east face of the north-west turret. This
shoulder formed a landing, 6 feet by 8 feet, whence a staircase descended
by a face of the wall to the ground. The walls show where the staircase was
let into it by the discontinuance of the regular coursing, but this also shows
the staircase to have been an afterthought. The original staircase was
probably of wood. The door has evidently been walled up from an early
period. In the west side of this doorway is a smaller lateral doorway
opening into a groined lobby, which leads into a staircase and a garderobe,
which occupy the north-west turret. The garderobe is 7 feet by 2 feet, with a
loop to the east and the seat and drain to the west, and in the north wall a
recess as for a lamp. A few feet south of the seat and its shoot a second
shoot is seen in the outer wall. This probably belonged to a garderobe in the
battlements, now gone. The staircase is a well, 6 feet diameter, of which
twenty-four steps remain. It evidently led from the first-floor level to the
summit. The fragment of the turret seems to show that the original height of
the wall was about 32 to 36 feet. This and the main staircase are cut short
by the removal of the upper 5 feet or 6 feet of the wall. They open upon the
present top of the wall, which has been levelled, and a slight battlement and
rear wall built to make the walk safe. There does not seem to have been a
second floor.
Many years ago, about 1683, the then proprietor of the castle,
ignominiously known as having removed the upper part of the walls and
gutted the interior of the building, discovered that a part of the ground floor
rested upon vaults. These he opened and examined, and they are still
accessible. The vaults are two in number, built side by side, each 22 feet
wide and 96 feet long. They are crossed by a wall 6 feet thick, and thus
formed into two vaults of 60 feet and two of 30 feet. The wall between them
is 8 feet thick. When discovered they were full of earth, so full that it was
evident the contents of the foundations had been heaped and used as a
centring, the arch being turned upon the earth or the stones laid upon it. Of
one vault the roof is flat, held up by the mere cohesion of the masonry.
These vaults had no original entrance, and were evidently works of
construction only, not intended to be used. Several breaches were made, so
that one vault can be entered from the other; and a breach was also made in
the north wall of the keep below the exterior ground-level, through which a
Page 524
good deal of this soil was removed, and thus the cavities admit of a partial
examination. The masonry is wholly rude rubble, composed of large
pebbles and boulders and fragments of stone, uncoursed, and with a very
free use of mortar. The vaults are described as pointed, but the excessive
rudeness of the work and the nature of the centring would account for any
irregularity in the figure of the arches. To the eye they appear rudely
semicircular. That these vaults are of the date of the keep is evident from
their relations to the other walls, part of which rest upon them. The present
entrance is in the floor of the well-chamber.
For some reason, possibly from an apprehension of defective foundation
in a wet sandy soil, it seems to have been thought necessary to take
extraordinary precautions against an unequal settlement of the parts of the
keep. Hence probably the extensive area, the low altitude of the walls, and
the excessive breadth of their foundations. Hence, also, probably, the
decision to elevate the floor of the interior above the exterior ground, by the
use of vaulting. If such was the cause of these unusual precautions, the
result has been perfectly successful, for there is no mark of subsidence
anywhere to be seen.
Although a main entrance at the ground-floor level is by no means
unknown in Norman keeps, and is found at Carlisle, Ludlow, and
Bamborough, it was not usual, and an examination of the present entrance
at Colchester leads to the conclusion that it was not originally so here. It is
evident not only that the present ornate doorway is an insertion, but that the
outer part of the wall above has also been taken down for a considerable
height, and clumsily rebuilt. This was done to allow of the insertion of a
portcullis. Without this it would have been sufficient to remove the lower
masonry only, but the grate required head-room when raised, and to gain
this a more extensive alteration was necessary. Immediately above the
dripstone are a few courses of ashlar, derived, no doubt, from the old work;
but above this the wall is of very inferior uncoursed rubble, very different
from the regular courses of stone and tile seen in the wall on either side.
When the outer door case was inserted the wall within was also lined with
ashlar, and the ring stones of the inner arch and of the entrances to the great
staircase were also so cased. Above, the recess into which the portcullis was
lifted is of tile, and evidently original; but the floor with the aperture or
chase, and the flat back of the recess are later. In all probability there was
examination. The masonry is wholly rude rubble, composed of large
pebbles and boulders and fragments of stone, uncoursed, and with a very
free use of mortar. The vaults are described as pointed, but the excessive
rudeness of the work and the nature of the centring would account for any
irregularity in the figure of the arches. To the eye they appear rudely
semicircular. That these vaults are of the date of the keep is evident from
their relations to the other walls, part of which rest upon them. The present
entrance is in the floor of the well-chamber.
For some reason, possibly from an apprehension of defective foundation
in a wet sandy soil, it seems to have been thought necessary to take
extraordinary precautions against an unequal settlement of the parts of the
keep. Hence probably the extensive area, the low altitude of the walls, and
the excessive breadth of their foundations. Hence, also, probably, the
decision to elevate the floor of the interior above the exterior ground, by the
use of vaulting. If such was the cause of these unusual precautions, the
result has been perfectly successful, for there is no mark of subsidence
anywhere to be seen.
Although a main entrance at the ground-floor level is by no means
unknown in Norman keeps, and is found at Carlisle, Ludlow, and
Bamborough, it was not usual, and an examination of the present entrance
at Colchester leads to the conclusion that it was not originally so here. It is
evident not only that the present ornate doorway is an insertion, but that the
outer part of the wall above has also been taken down for a considerable
height, and clumsily rebuilt. This was done to allow of the insertion of a
portcullis. Without this it would have been sufficient to remove the lower
masonry only, but the grate required head-room when raised, and to gain
this a more extensive alteration was necessary. Immediately above the
dripstone are a few courses of ashlar, derived, no doubt, from the old work;
but above this the wall is of very inferior uncoursed rubble, very different
from the regular courses of stone and tile seen in the wall on either side.
When the outer door case was inserted the wall within was also lined with
ashlar, and the ring stones of the inner arch and of the entrances to the great
staircase were also so cased. Above, the recess into which the portcullis was
lifted is of tile, and evidently original; but the floor with the aperture or
chase, and the flat back of the recess are later. In all probability there was
Page 525
originally a recess with perhaps a loop where the great doorway now is, and
there was certainly a recess above, with probably a loop also. When this
door was opened, in the latest Norman period, the original entrance on the
first floor, in the north front, was probably walled up, as it still remains. It
has been suggested that the great doorway replaced a postern, but posterns
in Norman keeps were very unusual indeed, especially at the ground-level,
and there seems no reason for supposing one here. Probably when the keep
was constructed there was no enceinte wall, but when this was built, the
keep became far more secure, and as it was convenient to have an entrance
from the town side, the change was made.
There is something to be said for the pertinacity with which this keep has
been asserted to be a Roman building. Not only is its design peculiar, but
this is also the case with the material employed, and in some degree with
the workmanship. The walls, though cased with ashlar on the plinth, and
though ashlar is largely employed in the quoins up to the first floor, contain
great quantities of the large, square, thick tile so characteristic of Roman
work. Moreover, these tiles are mostly whole, as though they had not been
employed in an older building, and they are laid in bonding or chain
courses, single, double, triple, and even in four courses, with intervening
bands of cement stone in small rudely-squared blocks. Sometimes the tiles
are laid on edge, sometimes slightly inclined, with here and there a
tendency to herring-bone, and the greater part of the interior dividing wall is
regular herring-bone, and a very fine example of it. Most of the recesses
within the walls were not originally looped, and are round-backed and
semi-domed, which is unusual in Norman keeps. Outside the building, high
up in the walls, are traces of a number of apertures or perhaps only sunken
spaces, about 2 feet 6 inches square. One of these is shown in an early
drawing as containing a sun-dial, no doubt an insertion. It has been
supposed that these represent tablets with an inscription, but there is no
evidence for this. What they were for it is difficult even to guess.
All these features, and some others not actually present, have been
adduced to justify the opinions of General Roy, King, and others, in favour
of the Roman origin of the building, which is asserted to have been
constructed to contain and guard the shrine of a Pagan deity, and afterwards
to have been converted by the Normans into a fortress. Such conversions of
Roman buildings into mediæval fortresses were, no doubt, common enough
there was certainly a recess above, with probably a loop also. When this
door was opened, in the latest Norman period, the original entrance on the
first floor, in the north front, was probably walled up, as it still remains. It
has been suggested that the great doorway replaced a postern, but posterns
in Norman keeps were very unusual indeed, especially at the ground-level,
and there seems no reason for supposing one here. Probably when the keep
was constructed there was no enceinte wall, but when this was built, the
keep became far more secure, and as it was convenient to have an entrance
from the town side, the change was made.
There is something to be said for the pertinacity with which this keep has
been asserted to be a Roman building. Not only is its design peculiar, but
this is also the case with the material employed, and in some degree with
the workmanship. The walls, though cased with ashlar on the plinth, and
though ashlar is largely employed in the quoins up to the first floor, contain
great quantities of the large, square, thick tile so characteristic of Roman
work. Moreover, these tiles are mostly whole, as though they had not been
employed in an older building, and they are laid in bonding or chain
courses, single, double, triple, and even in four courses, with intervening
bands of cement stone in small rudely-squared blocks. Sometimes the tiles
are laid on edge, sometimes slightly inclined, with here and there a
tendency to herring-bone, and the greater part of the interior dividing wall is
regular herring-bone, and a very fine example of it. Most of the recesses
within the walls were not originally looped, and are round-backed and
semi-domed, which is unusual in Norman keeps. Outside the building, high
up in the walls, are traces of a number of apertures or perhaps only sunken
spaces, about 2 feet 6 inches square. One of these is shown in an early
drawing as containing a sun-dial, no doubt an insertion. It has been
supposed that these represent tablets with an inscription, but there is no
evidence for this. What they were for it is difficult even to guess.
All these features, and some others not actually present, have been
adduced to justify the opinions of General Roy, King, and others, in favour
of the Roman origin of the building, which is asserted to have been
constructed to contain and guard the shrine of a Pagan deity, and afterwards
to have been converted by the Normans into a fortress. Such conversions of
Roman buildings into mediæval fortresses were, no doubt, common enough
Page 526
in Italy and France, and not unknown in England, as at Pevensey and
Porchester, but nevertheless there scarcely seems ground for supposing this
building to be Roman, or other than a Norman keep.
The combination of the rectangular plan with angle turrets and
intermediate pilasters of slight projection is distinctly and peculiarly
Norman. As to the unusual dimensions of the building, in size and height
Norman keeps varied considerably, from Clitheroe and Goderich up to
Norwich or London. The projection of the turrets also varies from mere
pilasters as at Bowes and Scarborough to regular turrets as at Dover and
Kenilworth. The half-round projection and the chapel within are indeed
rare, being confined to Colchester and London, but no one conversant with
the smaller Norman churches could hesitate to class these among them. The
spreading plinth is also a Norman feature, and is seen at Norham and
Kenilworth. Thick and solid walls at the ground floor are also common.
One of the most usual Norman arrangements was to place at one angle a
well-staircase communicating with each floor and with the roof, while at
another angle was a similar staircase commencing at the first floor.
The Norman entrance, though sometimes on the ground floor, was more
usually, as originally here, on the first floor. Neither was it always protected
by a forebuilding. Neither Goderich, Clitheroe, nor Chester were so
protected. The well in Norman keeps, though often in the wall, was also
found in other situations. At Norwich and Castle Rising it was within the
area, and at Bamborough. Mural chambers, especially for garderobes, are
common in Norman keeps, especially at the first-floor level. Here are three,
and a larger chamber, besides the chapel and ante-chapel. The shoots of
Norman garderobes usually open on the face of the wall, the lower stone
projecting a little to keep the filth clear of it, as at Ludlow and Carlisle. The
opening of the flues of the fireplaces upon the face of the wall, close to a
pilaster, is a purely Norman device. The use of loops on the first floor,
though with large splayed recesses, is also Norman, and a part of the jealous
system that pervaded those keeps. Usually it was only at the second floor
that the loops became windows. In Norman keeps the floors were almost
always of timber, the joists being supported, when necessary, by posts or
props, as seen at this day in the Tower of London.
As to material the use of new and clear and unbroken tiles by no means
shows a work to be Roman. Those of St. Botolph’s Priory Church were
Porchester, but nevertheless there scarcely seems ground for supposing this
building to be Roman, or other than a Norman keep.
The combination of the rectangular plan with angle turrets and
intermediate pilasters of slight projection is distinctly and peculiarly
Norman. As to the unusual dimensions of the building, in size and height
Norman keeps varied considerably, from Clitheroe and Goderich up to
Norwich or London. The projection of the turrets also varies from mere
pilasters as at Bowes and Scarborough to regular turrets as at Dover and
Kenilworth. The half-round projection and the chapel within are indeed
rare, being confined to Colchester and London, but no one conversant with
the smaller Norman churches could hesitate to class these among them. The
spreading plinth is also a Norman feature, and is seen at Norham and
Kenilworth. Thick and solid walls at the ground floor are also common.
One of the most usual Norman arrangements was to place at one angle a
well-staircase communicating with each floor and with the roof, while at
another angle was a similar staircase commencing at the first floor.
The Norman entrance, though sometimes on the ground floor, was more
usually, as originally here, on the first floor. Neither was it always protected
by a forebuilding. Neither Goderich, Clitheroe, nor Chester were so
protected. The well in Norman keeps, though often in the wall, was also
found in other situations. At Norwich and Castle Rising it was within the
area, and at Bamborough. Mural chambers, especially for garderobes, are
common in Norman keeps, especially at the first-floor level. Here are three,
and a larger chamber, besides the chapel and ante-chapel. The shoots of
Norman garderobes usually open on the face of the wall, the lower stone
projecting a little to keep the filth clear of it, as at Ludlow and Carlisle. The
opening of the flues of the fireplaces upon the face of the wall, close to a
pilaster, is a purely Norman device. The use of loops on the first floor,
though with large splayed recesses, is also Norman, and a part of the jealous
system that pervaded those keeps. Usually it was only at the second floor
that the loops became windows. In Norman keeps the floors were almost
always of timber, the joists being supported, when necessary, by posts or
props, as seen at this day in the Tower of London.
As to material the use of new and clear and unbroken tiles by no means
shows a work to be Roman. Those of St. Botolph’s Priory Church were
Page 527
evidently never used before. The only conclusion is that they were
manufactured in imitation of those introduced by the Romans. Neither is the
mortar that usually described as of Roman composition. It is decidedly
white or light in colour, with a great preponderance of sand, so much so as
in some parts to have prevented its setting. Where the mortar is in masses it
may contain fragments of tile or stone, but there is no trace of pounded
brick in its composition. It is generally ill-mixed, and contains large
fragments of sea-shells. The putlog holes in size and position are such as are
usually observed in buildings of the eleventh and twelfth centuries, though
probably not confined to them. The soffits of the vaulting of the staircase
and mural chambers everywhere are impressed deeply with the figure of the
boards used as centring, or what is called technically lagging. The
carpenter’s work in Norman keeps seems to have been very rudely
performed, and the rough boards were spread over thickly with mortar to
bring them to a surface. This is well seen at Colchester.
Taking all these features into consideration there ought to be little doubt
that Colchester keep is a Norman structure, built probably about the close of
the eleventh century, by one of the sons of Hubert de Rie.
The keep is the only part of Colchester Castle now standing. The wall
enceinte has long been removed, probably about 1650, but its general line
to the east, north, and west is indicated by three earthbanks. To the south the
ground has been levelled. The entrance from the town was on this side. This
was the main gate, but there was also a second. The area thus enclosed
appears to have been rather above three acres. Various Roman remains have
been discovered within and about this area.
manufactured in imitation of those introduced by the Romans. Neither is the
mortar that usually described as of Roman composition. It is decidedly
white or light in colour, with a great preponderance of sand, so much so as
in some parts to have prevented its setting. Where the mortar is in masses it
may contain fragments of tile or stone, but there is no trace of pounded
brick in its composition. It is generally ill-mixed, and contains large
fragments of sea-shells. The putlog holes in size and position are such as are
usually observed in buildings of the eleventh and twelfth centuries, though
probably not confined to them. The soffits of the vaulting of the staircase
and mural chambers everywhere are impressed deeply with the figure of the
boards used as centring, or what is called technically lagging. The
carpenter’s work in Norman keeps seems to have been very rudely
performed, and the rough boards were spread over thickly with mortar to
bring them to a surface. This is well seen at Colchester.
Taking all these features into consideration there ought to be little doubt
that Colchester keep is a Norman structure, built probably about the close of
the eleventh century, by one of the sons of Hubert de Rie.
The keep is the only part of Colchester Castle now standing. The wall
enceinte has long been removed, probably about 1650, but its general line
to the east, north, and west is indicated by three earthbanks. To the south the
ground has been levelled. The entrance from the town was on this side. This
was the main gate, but there was also a second. The area thus enclosed
appears to have been rather above three acres. Various Roman remains have
been discovered within and about this area.
Page 528
CONISBOROUGH CASTLE.
CONISBOROUGH, or, as it was anciently and more correctly called,
Coningsborough or Coningsburh Castle, is one of the most remarkable of
the strongholds in the North of England, standing high above the bank of
“the gentle Don,” about half-a-mile below its reception of the Dearne, in the
midst of a grand sylvan amphitheatre. Its name declares it to have been a
seat, and its position to have been a fitting seat, of Saxon royalty; and the
mighty earthworks which constitute its most ancient defences, proclaim the
value of the possession and the power of the founder: moreover, the great
enchanter of romance has thrown a charm over the scene and invested it
with an interest not the less deep that it is wholly fictitious. Those, and they
are many, who ascend the guarded mount, care little for the great Norman
Earl who raised its tower; to them it is peopled with the creations of Scott.
The chamber remains, though roofless, in which he places the funeral
banquet of Athelstan, and the oratory is still unaltered within which Rowena
poured forth her very mingled devotions. The present view must necessarily
be of a more prosaic character. It must take notice of the great earls whose
tower stands almost unrivalled as an abiding evidence of their feudal
magnificence and constructive skill. Although Conisborough may not be
compared to Coucy in dimensions, and the power even of the House of
Warren pales before that of its more than royal Sires, the lesser but older
tower is not inferior to its great rival in position, excellence of material, or
delicacy of workmanship.
CONISBOROUGH, or, as it was anciently and more correctly called,
Coningsborough or Coningsburh Castle, is one of the most remarkable of
the strongholds in the North of England, standing high above the bank of
“the gentle Don,” about half-a-mile below its reception of the Dearne, in the
midst of a grand sylvan amphitheatre. Its name declares it to have been a
seat, and its position to have been a fitting seat, of Saxon royalty; and the
mighty earthworks which constitute its most ancient defences, proclaim the
value of the possession and the power of the founder: moreover, the great
enchanter of romance has thrown a charm over the scene and invested it
with an interest not the less deep that it is wholly fictitious. Those, and they
are many, who ascend the guarded mount, care little for the great Norman
Earl who raised its tower; to them it is peopled with the creations of Scott.
The chamber remains, though roofless, in which he places the funeral
banquet of Athelstan, and the oratory is still unaltered within which Rowena
poured forth her very mingled devotions. The present view must necessarily
be of a more prosaic character. It must take notice of the great earls whose
tower stands almost unrivalled as an abiding evidence of their feudal
magnificence and constructive skill. Although Conisborough may not be
compared to Coucy in dimensions, and the power even of the House of
Warren pales before that of its more than royal Sires, the lesser but older
tower is not inferior to its great rival in position, excellence of material, or
delicacy of workmanship.
Page 529
A·S·Ellis
Sept. 81.
CONISBOROUGH CASTLE.
GENERAL PLAN of the CASTLE & EARTHWORKS.
He who selected the hill of Conisborough as the site of a stronghold, if
not, as King James said on visiting a similar position, a thief in his heart,
must have thought security of the first importance, and have been prepared
to expend a vast amount of human labour in obtaining it. What he had to
deal with was an isolated knoll of rock and gravel, rising at about 400 yards
from the bank of the river to a height of about 175 feet, naturally steep on
every side, though rather less so to the south-west, where the exterior
ground is somewhat higher. On this side, distant about a furlong, stands the
ancient church of St. Peter, and about it the village of Conisborough. The
top of the knoll has been levelled and trimmed into a platform of a rounded
outline, 90 yards north-east and south-west, by 60 yards in the cross
direction, thus enclosing about three-quarters of an acre. From this summit
the slopes have been scarped steeply down to the bottom of an immense
ditch about 60 feet below the crest. The outer slope or counterscarp of the
ditch varies in height, or rather depth, according to the character of the
ground, and for about two-thirds of its circumference is crested by a steep
Sept. 81.
CONISBOROUGH CASTLE.
GENERAL PLAN of the CASTLE & EARTHWORKS.
He who selected the hill of Conisborough as the site of a stronghold, if
not, as King James said on visiting a similar position, a thief in his heart,
must have thought security of the first importance, and have been prepared
to expend a vast amount of human labour in obtaining it. What he had to
deal with was an isolated knoll of rock and gravel, rising at about 400 yards
from the bank of the river to a height of about 175 feet, naturally steep on
every side, though rather less so to the south-west, where the exterior
ground is somewhat higher. On this side, distant about a furlong, stands the
ancient church of St. Peter, and about it the village of Conisborough. The
top of the knoll has been levelled and trimmed into a platform of a rounded
outline, 90 yards north-east and south-west, by 60 yards in the cross
direction, thus enclosing about three-quarters of an acre. From this summit
the slopes have been scarped steeply down to the bottom of an immense
ditch about 60 feet below the crest. The outer slope or counterscarp of the
ditch varies in height, or rather depth, according to the character of the
ground, and for about two-thirds of its circumference is crested by a steep
Page 530
bank, which gives the ditch a depth of from 18 to 25 feet, and the exterior
slope of which dies away into the natural fall of the hill-side. Towards the
south-west, or town side, where the ground occupied by the church is about
25 feet higher than the terre-plein of the castle, the intervening hollow is
occupied by a large outwork, resting upon the main ditch, a branch from
which embraces and separates it from the town, and thus is formed an outer
ward, convenient either for the lodgment of troops or the secure pasture of
cattle. The principal approach must always have been on this side and
across this earthwork. At no other point could so safe or so convenient an
approach have been contrived; scarcely, indeed, one practicable for a horse
with a rider on his back, still less for a litter or a vehicle on wheels. Such, as
regards the earthwork, was, and still is the original fortress, the seat and
stronghold of the king from whose office the borough was named, and,
supposing the walls and keep to be removed, and the crest of the platform,
the counterscarp of the ditch, and the outer edge of the earthwork to be
palisaded, the place would still be one of great strength and equal to the
accommodation of even a royal following.
When Earl Warren, soon after the Norman Conquest, visited his newly-
acquired lordship, he must have been struck with the general analogy of its
chief seat to the strong places he had left behind him. The mound or motte,
here natural, the circular ditch around it, and the entrenched outworks
covering the weaker side, resting upon the ditch and protected by a branch
of it, were features as well known in Normandy as in England. No doubt he
intended to add to the fortress those works in masonry that were just then
become popular upon the Seine and the Orne; but the internal evidence of
the oldest remaining work in stone, the encircling wall, shows it not to have
been his work. Probably he found the works required at Lewes, Ryegate,
and Castle-acre, quite enough to occupy his means, and was obliged to be
content with such defences as he found already to his hand, and to his son
or grandson is to be attributed the earliest extant masonry, the older part of
the curtain, and a part of the outer gatehouse at the foot of the hill. There is
no reason to suppose that there ever was a Norman keep. Probably the
whole inner ward, as at Exeter and Restormel, was regarded as a shell keep.
The present tower is certainly a rather later addition. The view here given
shows the ascent from the gatehouse. On the left is seen the exterior of the
curtain of the main ward.
slope of which dies away into the natural fall of the hill-side. Towards the
south-west, or town side, where the ground occupied by the church is about
25 feet higher than the terre-plein of the castle, the intervening hollow is
occupied by a large outwork, resting upon the main ditch, a branch from
which embraces and separates it from the town, and thus is formed an outer
ward, convenient either for the lodgment of troops or the secure pasture of
cattle. The principal approach must always have been on this side and
across this earthwork. At no other point could so safe or so convenient an
approach have been contrived; scarcely, indeed, one practicable for a horse
with a rider on his back, still less for a litter or a vehicle on wheels. Such, as
regards the earthwork, was, and still is the original fortress, the seat and
stronghold of the king from whose office the borough was named, and,
supposing the walls and keep to be removed, and the crest of the platform,
the counterscarp of the ditch, and the outer edge of the earthwork to be
palisaded, the place would still be one of great strength and equal to the
accommodation of even a royal following.
When Earl Warren, soon after the Norman Conquest, visited his newly-
acquired lordship, he must have been struck with the general analogy of its
chief seat to the strong places he had left behind him. The mound or motte,
here natural, the circular ditch around it, and the entrenched outworks
covering the weaker side, resting upon the ditch and protected by a branch
of it, were features as well known in Normandy as in England. No doubt he
intended to add to the fortress those works in masonry that were just then
become popular upon the Seine and the Orne; but the internal evidence of
the oldest remaining work in stone, the encircling wall, shows it not to have
been his work. Probably he found the works required at Lewes, Ryegate,
and Castle-acre, quite enough to occupy his means, and was obliged to be
content with such defences as he found already to his hand, and to his son
or grandson is to be attributed the earliest extant masonry, the older part of
the curtain, and a part of the outer gatehouse at the foot of the hill. There is
no reason to suppose that there ever was a Norman keep. Probably the
whole inner ward, as at Exeter and Restormel, was regarded as a shell keep.
The present tower is certainly a rather later addition. The view here given
shows the ascent from the gatehouse. On the left is seen the exterior of the
curtain of the main ward.
Page 531
The castle, as now seen, is composed of a keep, an inner and an outer
ward, and the steep slope between them. The Outer Ward is the earthwork
on the western side. There are no traces of the gateway by which this must
have been entered, nor of any curtain wall surrounding it, or buildings
within it. Probably its defences were always of timber placed upon the
earthbank which crowns the scarp of the ditch and must have been thrown
up out of it.
Crossing the centre of the earthwork, the way into the castle reaches and
traverses the main or inner ditch by a modern causeway of earth, replacing
the ancient drawbridge, and reaches the base of the hill between two thick
and lofty walls, parallel, and 10 feet apart, like those at the entrance to
Berkhampstead. The cross walls which connected them at each end, and
were perforated by the portal arches, are gone. The gatehouse thus formed
had probably a timber covering, and perhaps an upper floor above the
entrance passage, with an embattled platform above all. The lateral walls
are, or have been, continued up the hill. That on the left on entering was
carried straight up the slope till it abutted upon, and was united to, the
curtain of the inner ward. The wall on the right hand springs from a small,
solid, round turret which flanks the inner end of the gatehouse. It is carried
obliquely up the slope, gradually approaching the upper entrance, which it
reaches at a right angle towards the middle of the southern front. This wall
protects the roadway from the lower to the upper gate; and is itself
commanded from the curtain wall above. It may be said to traverse the
ward, and the steep slope between them. The Outer Ward is the earthwork
on the western side. There are no traces of the gateway by which this must
have been entered, nor of any curtain wall surrounding it, or buildings
within it. Probably its defences were always of timber placed upon the
earthbank which crowns the scarp of the ditch and must have been thrown
up out of it.
Crossing the centre of the earthwork, the way into the castle reaches and
traverses the main or inner ditch by a modern causeway of earth, replacing
the ancient drawbridge, and reaches the base of the hill between two thick
and lofty walls, parallel, and 10 feet apart, like those at the entrance to
Berkhampstead. The cross walls which connected them at each end, and
were perforated by the portal arches, are gone. The gatehouse thus formed
had probably a timber covering, and perhaps an upper floor above the
entrance passage, with an embattled platform above all. The lateral walls
are, or have been, continued up the hill. That on the left on entering was
carried straight up the slope till it abutted upon, and was united to, the
curtain of the inner ward. The wall on the right hand springs from a small,
solid, round turret which flanks the inner end of the gatehouse. It is carried
obliquely up the slope, gradually approaching the upper entrance, which it
reaches at a right angle towards the middle of the southern front. This wall
protects the roadway from the lower to the upper gate; and is itself
commanded from the curtain wall above. It may be said to traverse the
Page 532
Middle Ward, if that term be applied to the slope of the hill between the
ditch and outwork below and the containing wall of the inner ward above. It
is, in fact, the glacis of the inner line of defence.
Of the Inner Ward there is at this time no trace of an exterior gatehouse.
Probably the entrance was a mere archway in the curtain, as at Bridgenorth
and Kenilworth, or Cardiff, flanked in addition by a projecting shoulder of
the wall which still remains. An exterior gatehouse, though not an
unknown, was not an essential feature in a Norman castle. Entering the
inner court, the wall to the left shows abundant traces of buildings attached
to it. It is evident that here, right and left, were the principal structures for
domestic purposes, as the hall, kitchen, and probably the chapel, attached to
and with walls bonded into the curtain. The rectangular space between these
buildings, 14 feet by 24 feet, may have been, as it was at Tickhill, a
gatehouse with a portal opening into the inner ward.
The inner ward is somewhat of an oval
figure, but contained within a wall of many
straight lengths, in fact a very irregular
polygon, fitted to the natural outline of the
ground. The older part of this curtain is, in
substance, of good coursed rubble, from 6 feet
to 7 feet thick, and from 30 feet to 35 feet high.
The outer face was of ashlar, and much of it
remains, either perfect, or with marks showing
where the stones have been stripped off. The
angles were quoined with ashlar blocks inside
and outside, and there are several exterior PILASTERS AS SEEN FROM
pilasters, locally called “pillars,” broad, of OUTSIDE.
slight projection, and with one or two sets-off,
being of a late Norman character. In the north-west angle, high up in the
wall, is a round-headed arch which probably opened into a tower, capping
the angle, but now gone. A part of the west wall seems to have been rebuilt
when a new hall and kitchen were required, and in it are the remains of a
large fireplace, and corbels either for a lean-to roof, or for an upper floor.
The battlements are everywhere gone. The north and west walls are
tolerably perfect, and much remains of the east, but towards the south the
wall is broken down. This part seems the latest, and to have been rebuilt in
ditch and outwork below and the containing wall of the inner ward above. It
is, in fact, the glacis of the inner line of defence.
Of the Inner Ward there is at this time no trace of an exterior gatehouse.
Probably the entrance was a mere archway in the curtain, as at Bridgenorth
and Kenilworth, or Cardiff, flanked in addition by a projecting shoulder of
the wall which still remains. An exterior gatehouse, though not an
unknown, was not an essential feature in a Norman castle. Entering the
inner court, the wall to the left shows abundant traces of buildings attached
to it. It is evident that here, right and left, were the principal structures for
domestic purposes, as the hall, kitchen, and probably the chapel, attached to
and with walls bonded into the curtain. The rectangular space between these
buildings, 14 feet by 24 feet, may have been, as it was at Tickhill, a
gatehouse with a portal opening into the inner ward.
The inner ward is somewhat of an oval
figure, but contained within a wall of many
straight lengths, in fact a very irregular
polygon, fitted to the natural outline of the
ground. The older part of this curtain is, in
substance, of good coursed rubble, from 6 feet
to 7 feet thick, and from 30 feet to 35 feet high.
The outer face was of ashlar, and much of it
remains, either perfect, or with marks showing
where the stones have been stripped off. The
angles were quoined with ashlar blocks inside
and outside, and there are several exterior PILASTERS AS SEEN FROM
pilasters, locally called “pillars,” broad, of OUTSIDE.
slight projection, and with one or two sets-off,
being of a late Norman character. In the north-west angle, high up in the
wall, is a round-headed arch which probably opened into a tower, capping
the angle, but now gone. A part of the west wall seems to have been rebuilt
when a new hall and kitchen were required, and in it are the remains of a
large fireplace, and corbels either for a lean-to roof, or for an upper floor.
The battlements are everywhere gone. The north and west walls are
tolerably perfect, and much remains of the east, but towards the south the
wall is broken down. This part seems the latest, and to have been rebuilt in
Page 533
a slovenly manner. Upon the wall are five small half-round turrets, solid,
like those at Knaresborough. The curtain has no bond into the keep, which
has been built into its line, so as to form a part of it. At this part, the north-
east of the enceinte, in a salient of the curtain, is a small staircase and
passage in the wall much blocked with rubbish. King calls it a postern, but
it was very evidently a garderobe. The area of this inner ward has been
cleared out and the buildings removed, all except the keep. The only traces
of walls in the court are along its north, west, and south sides, showing that
there were buildings against the curtain 310 feet in length by 22 feet in
breadth.
like those at Knaresborough. The curtain has no bond into the keep, which
has been built into its line, so as to form a part of it. At this part, the north-
east of the enceinte, in a salient of the curtain, is a small staircase and
passage in the wall much blocked with rubbish. King calls it a postern, but
it was very evidently a garderobe. The area of this inner ward has been
cleared out and the buildings removed, all except the keep. The only traces
of walls in the court are along its north, west, and south sides, showing that
there were buildings against the curtain 310 feet in length by 22 feet in
breadth.
Page 534
DETAIL OF THE BASE OF ONE OF THE
BUTTRESSES OF THE KEEP.
BUTTRESSES OF THE KEEP.
Page 535
CONISBOROUGH CASTLE.—VIEW OF THE KEEP AS
AT PRESENT.
The Keep is the glory of Conisborough, and though inferior in size to
Cæsar’s or Beauchamp’s Tower at Warwick, is more than their equal in its
masonry, and more complete, inasmuch as it is a keep, and those are
subsidiary towers. It stands nearly at the north-east extremity, and at the
highest part of the inner ward, actually upon the line of the curtain, of
which two of its buttresses and the intermediate wall form a part. It is
constantly described as standing upon an artificial mound, which is
certainly not the case. Indeed, no artificial mound could bear so
AT PRESENT.
The Keep is the glory of Conisborough, and though inferior in size to
Cæsar’s or Beauchamp’s Tower at Warwick, is more than their equal in its
masonry, and more complete, inasmuch as it is a keep, and those are
subsidiary towers. It stands nearly at the north-east extremity, and at the
highest part of the inner ward, actually upon the line of the curtain, of
which two of its buttresses and the intermediate wall form a part. It is
constantly described as standing upon an artificial mound, which is
certainly not the case. Indeed, no artificial mound could bear so
Page 536
concentrated a weight. It stands upon the natural surface, here a rock. It has
no special ditch, and the ground shows that it never had any. There was,
indeed, no need of the usual ditch, which was represented by the natural
steep, and the exterior ditch at its base.
KEEP, FROM OUTSIDE THE CURTAIN.
The tower is a cylinder, resting upon a bold spreading conical base.
Against it, at equal intervals, are six bold, massive buttresses, having flat
faces, but slightly tapering in plan so as to be half-hexagons with two long
sides and a short face. They rest upon bases which expand outwards, but
very little laterally. The tower at the ground-level is 66 feet diameter, from
which its buttresses project 9 feet more, so that it covers an interrupted
circle of 80 feet. Where the buttresses spring from, or are united to, the
no special ditch, and the ground shows that it never had any. There was,
indeed, no need of the usual ditch, which was represented by the natural
steep, and the exterior ditch at its base.
KEEP, FROM OUTSIDE THE CURTAIN.
The tower is a cylinder, resting upon a bold spreading conical base.
Against it, at equal intervals, are six bold, massive buttresses, having flat
faces, but slightly tapering in plan so as to be half-hexagons with two long
sides and a short face. They rest upon bases which expand outwards, but
very little laterally. The tower at the ground-level is 66 feet diameter, from
which its buttresses project 9 feet more, so that it covers an interrupted
circle of 80 feet. Where the buttresses spring from, or are united to, the
Page 537
tower, they are 15 feet 6 inches broad. They taper in plan 6 feet 6 inches, so
that the face of each is 9 feet broad. At 20 feet from the ground the battering
base ceases, and the tower is there 52 feet diameter, and the buttresses
project 8 feet, while their taper is represented by a base of 14 feet 6 inches,
and a face of 9 feet. This is at the first-floor level, and here the walls are 14
feet 11 inches thick.
The exterior of the tower from this level is vertical, being in fact a
cylinder, and without any string moulding or set-off above the chamfered
top of the base. Inside, the walls are reduced in thickness by three sets-off
or ledges, corresponding to the four floors, each floor resting upon a ledge.
The wall is thus reduced to 12 feet 6 inches in thickness at the summit. The
tower is now at one point 90 feet high, and was originally probably about
120 feet to its conical top. The buttresses, when complete and battlemented,
were about 94 feet high. The whole structure is built of a fine-grained light-
coloured limestone, in blocks about 12 inches high by from 1 to 3 feet long,
laid in courses, not regularly sorted, though the largest stones are in the
base. Both inner and outer faces, staircases, and mural chambers, are also of
excellent ashlar. The joints generally are rather open, the horizontal joints
varying from half-an-inch to one-and-a-half inches, the vertical joints rather
closer. The vaulting is mostly sound rubble. The mortar has fallen out of the
joints of the ashlar, but the stone is fresh and sharp, and there are no
settlements. The courses are all well defined, and may be counted both
within and without. Outside, the base is composed of eighteen courses, and
the cylinder of sixty-one, from which the buttresses rise seven courses
more. Inside, the first floor contains nineteen courses, the second twenty-
five, and the third nineteen, being sixty-three for the whole cylinder. The
fourth floor is gone, or nearly so. The exterior of the building is perfectly
plain, save the two small circular lights of the oratory, which have a sort of
ball moulding. There are several loops, but in the whole building but one
exterior doorway, and two main windows. All the arches are full-centred; no
trace of a pointed arch, and all is of one date. Nothing can be more
substantial, plainer, in better proportion, or better suited to the purpose for
which it was built.
The interior is divided into a basement and four stages, of which the
uppermost was in the roof, and at the battlement level; all are cylindrical.
The basement is a domed vault, of which the floor is the natural surface of
that the face of each is 9 feet broad. At 20 feet from the ground the battering
base ceases, and the tower is there 52 feet diameter, and the buttresses
project 8 feet, while their taper is represented by a base of 14 feet 6 inches,
and a face of 9 feet. This is at the first-floor level, and here the walls are 14
feet 11 inches thick.
The exterior of the tower from this level is vertical, being in fact a
cylinder, and without any string moulding or set-off above the chamfered
top of the base. Inside, the walls are reduced in thickness by three sets-off
or ledges, corresponding to the four floors, each floor resting upon a ledge.
The wall is thus reduced to 12 feet 6 inches in thickness at the summit. The
tower is now at one point 90 feet high, and was originally probably about
120 feet to its conical top. The buttresses, when complete and battlemented,
were about 94 feet high. The whole structure is built of a fine-grained light-
coloured limestone, in blocks about 12 inches high by from 1 to 3 feet long,
laid in courses, not regularly sorted, though the largest stones are in the
base. Both inner and outer faces, staircases, and mural chambers, are also of
excellent ashlar. The joints generally are rather open, the horizontal joints
varying from half-an-inch to one-and-a-half inches, the vertical joints rather
closer. The vaulting is mostly sound rubble. The mortar has fallen out of the
joints of the ashlar, but the stone is fresh and sharp, and there are no
settlements. The courses are all well defined, and may be counted both
within and without. Outside, the base is composed of eighteen courses, and
the cylinder of sixty-one, from which the buttresses rise seven courses
more. Inside, the first floor contains nineteen courses, the second twenty-
five, and the third nineteen, being sixty-three for the whole cylinder. The
fourth floor is gone, or nearly so. The exterior of the building is perfectly
plain, save the two small circular lights of the oratory, which have a sort of
ball moulding. There are several loops, but in the whole building but one
exterior doorway, and two main windows. All the arches are full-centred; no
trace of a pointed arch, and all is of one date. Nothing can be more
substantial, plainer, in better proportion, or better suited to the purpose for
which it was built.
The interior is divided into a basement and four stages, of which the
uppermost was in the roof, and at the battlement level; all are cylindrical.
The basement is a domed vault, of which the floor is the natural surface of
Page 538
the rock. It is 22 feet diameter. The walls to the springing are 10 feet high,
and both dome and walls are perfectly plain. There are no loops, or even
holes, or lateral recesses, or openings of any kind: no seats, no vents, no
sewer, so far as can be seen. In the centre is the well, lined with ashlar, and
rather above 2 feet diameter. It is said to be 105 feet deep, but is now
partially choked up. It must have been sunk as a larger shaft, and then lined
to its present diameter. Exactly above it is a ragged hole, which represents
the only entrance to the basement, and which must have been provided with
a ladder. It is evident that this vault was a cellar or store, and by no means a
prison. Space here, as indeed in most other keeps, was too valuable to be
employed, save in some manner likely to be of use during a siege.
and both dome and walls are perfectly plain. There are no loops, or even
holes, or lateral recesses, or openings of any kind: no seats, no vents, no
sewer, so far as can be seen. In the centre is the well, lined with ashlar, and
rather above 2 feet diameter. It is said to be 105 feet deep, but is now
partially choked up. It must have been sunk as a larger shaft, and then lined
to its present diameter. Exactly above it is a ragged hole, which represents
the only entrance to the basement, and which must have been provided with
a ladder. It is evident that this vault was a cellar or store, and by no means a
prison. Space here, as indeed in most other keeps, was too valuable to be
employed, save in some manner likely to be of use during a siege.
Page 539
CONISBOROUGH CASTLE.—THE KEEP.
The entrance to the tower is at the first-floor level, on the south-east side,
at the top of the base, and therefore 20 feet from the ground. The doorway
is 4 feet 9 inches wide, quite plain, and flat topped, but the lintel is
composed of five stones joggled together as a platband, and above is an
arch of relief, the tympanum of which is formed of two large stones,
divided vertically. There was no portcullis, only a stout single door of one
valve, stayed by two bars, the holes for which, 7 inches square, are in the
right or hinge-jamb 9 inches deep, and in the lock-jamb 6 feet. In the joints
near the cill are two holes, evidently for the iron gudgeons of a small
The entrance to the tower is at the first-floor level, on the south-east side,
at the top of the base, and therefore 20 feet from the ground. The doorway
is 4 feet 9 inches wide, quite plain, and flat topped, but the lintel is
composed of five stones joggled together as a platband, and above is an
arch of relief, the tympanum of which is formed of two large stones,
divided vertically. There was no portcullis, only a stout single door of one
valve, stayed by two bars, the holes for which, 7 inches square, are in the
right or hinge-jamb 9 inches deep, and in the lock-jamb 6 feet. In the joints
near the cill are two holes, evidently for the iron gudgeons of a small
Page 540
drawbridge, so light as to be worked from within the doorway. The present
exterior stone staircase is modern, but the original stair was probably much
of the same character, only the support must have been separated from the
tower by the length of the bridge, probably about 7 feet, or a foot longer
than the height of the doorway. It is singular that there should be no
portcullis, since it could have been worked conveniently from the window
recess above, and its presence would have made the tower absolutely
impregnable.
A·S·Ellis
-Sept. 61.
FIRST FLOOR PLAN.
From the doorway a vaulted passage, expanding from a breadth of 5 feet
3 inches to 6 feet 3 inches, leads direct into the first-floor chamber. Where
this vault terminates in the inner wall it is worked in a curve so as to
coincide or be flush with the inner face. This was to be expected, but this is
the only arch so terminating. All the others, whether of doorways or
window recesses, end square, so that while the central part coincides with
the curved face of the inner wall, the ends, or springings, are recessed from
exterior stone staircase is modern, but the original stair was probably much
of the same character, only the support must have been separated from the
tower by the length of the bridge, probably about 7 feet, or a foot longer
than the height of the doorway. It is singular that there should be no
portcullis, since it could have been worked conveniently from the window
recess above, and its presence would have made the tower absolutely
impregnable.
A·S·Ellis
-Sept. 61.
FIRST FLOOR PLAN.
From the doorway a vaulted passage, expanding from a breadth of 5 feet
3 inches to 6 feet 3 inches, leads direct into the first-floor chamber. Where
this vault terminates in the inner wall it is worked in a curve so as to
coincide or be flush with the inner face. This was to be expected, but this is
the only arch so terminating. All the others, whether of doorways or
window recesses, end square, so that while the central part coincides with
the curved face of the inner wall, the ends, or springings, are recessed from
Page 541
3 to 4 inches, according to the span of the arch, and the appearance is
clumsy. This is not so where the opening is square-headed, there the lintel is
cut to a suitable curve. It is remarkable that there is no rebate or provision
for a door where the entrance passages open into the first floor, and that
floor, though 22 feet diameter, and 16 feet 6 inches high, is entirely without
any air or light, save what it might receive when the outer door was open.
Possibly there was a central hole in the floor above, as in the dome below.
There is no drain or fireplace. This, therefore, also was a store.
SECOND FLOOR PLAN.
In the right wall of the entrance passage, on entering the tower, is a side
doorway whence a staircase ascends, winding with the walls to the second
floor. The doorway of 4 feet 1 inch opening, has a rebate for a door opening
inwards into a small lobby 5 feet 11 inches deep by 4 feet 8 inches broad,
whence rises the staircase of the same breadth. The staircase, of twenty-five
steps, winds with the wall, which is 4 feet 2 inches thick on its inner, and 6
feet 2 inches on its outer side. In the latter is a loop. The vault is full-
centred, broken by hanging ribs, of a bold square section; it ends above in
clumsy. This is not so where the opening is square-headed, there the lintel is
cut to a suitable curve. It is remarkable that there is no rebate or provision
for a door where the entrance passages open into the first floor, and that
floor, though 22 feet diameter, and 16 feet 6 inches high, is entirely without
any air or light, save what it might receive when the outer door was open.
Possibly there was a central hole in the floor above, as in the dome below.
There is no drain or fireplace. This, therefore, also was a store.
SECOND FLOOR PLAN.
In the right wall of the entrance passage, on entering the tower, is a side
doorway whence a staircase ascends, winding with the walls to the second
floor. The doorway of 4 feet 1 inch opening, has a rebate for a door opening
inwards into a small lobby 5 feet 11 inches deep by 4 feet 8 inches broad,
whence rises the staircase of the same breadth. The staircase, of twenty-five
steps, winds with the wall, which is 4 feet 2 inches thick on its inner, and 6
feet 2 inches on its outer side. In the latter is a loop. The vault is full-
centred, broken by hanging ribs, of a bold square section; it ends above in
Page 542
another lobby, 8 feet deep by 4 feet 8 inches broad, whence a round-headed
door-way opens into the second floor. The lobby is lighted by a loop.
The second, or state floor, is 25 feet diameter, having a set-off of about a
foot all round to carry the floor-boards, which were further supported by
joists resting upon plain corbels a little below the ledge. This chamber is 20
feet 4 inches high. It is lighted by one large window of two lights, each 4
feet 4 inches high by 1 foot 10 inches broad, flat-headed, and having an
intermediate mullion 2 feet 5 inches broad, in which is a sort of stone
staple, containing boltholes for the shutter fastenings. There are also lateral
barholes in the walls. The window is placed in a broad and lofty full-centred
recess, ascended by two steps from the floor, and having side seats. The
lines of the steps are concentric with the wall of the chamber. Outside, the
window lintel is composed of stones joggled together, forming and filling
up the pediment of a round-headed arch. This window is placed over the
entrance door.
Nearly opposite to the window is a
large and handsome fireplace. Its flat
lintel, 12 feet long, is partially
composed of nine stones, joggled
together in a skilful manner, and still
in place. These stones are flanked by
six others which rest upon the
supports. The bar of stone thus
composed extends each way to the
wall, and is supported near each end
by a cluster of three coupled columns
with foliated capitals of delicate
design and execution. These form the
jambs of the fireplace, the back of
which is flat, sloping backwards, and,
like the rest of the work, of ashlar. The
vent is square, and ascends vertically
in the wall to the summit. The stone
hood, resting on the lintel, is plain.
The whole style of this fireplace is late
Norman.
door-way opens into the second floor. The lobby is lighted by a loop.
The second, or state floor, is 25 feet diameter, having a set-off of about a
foot all round to carry the floor-boards, which were further supported by
joists resting upon plain corbels a little below the ledge. This chamber is 20
feet 4 inches high. It is lighted by one large window of two lights, each 4
feet 4 inches high by 1 foot 10 inches broad, flat-headed, and having an
intermediate mullion 2 feet 5 inches broad, in which is a sort of stone
staple, containing boltholes for the shutter fastenings. There are also lateral
barholes in the walls. The window is placed in a broad and lofty full-centred
recess, ascended by two steps from the floor, and having side seats. The
lines of the steps are concentric with the wall of the chamber. Outside, the
window lintel is composed of stones joggled together, forming and filling
up the pediment of a round-headed arch. This window is placed over the
entrance door.
Nearly opposite to the window is a
large and handsome fireplace. Its flat
lintel, 12 feet long, is partially
composed of nine stones, joggled
together in a skilful manner, and still
in place. These stones are flanked by
six others which rest upon the
supports. The bar of stone thus
composed extends each way to the
wall, and is supported near each end
by a cluster of three coupled columns
with foliated capitals of delicate
design and execution. These form the
jambs of the fireplace, the back of
which is flat, sloping backwards, and,
like the rest of the work, of ashlar. The
vent is square, and ascends vertically
in the wall to the summit. The stone
hood, resting on the lintel, is plain.
The whole style of this fireplace is late
Norman.
Page 543
On the left of the entrance door, between it and the window, is a small
square-headed doorway, 2 feet broad, and no doubt intended to be
concealed by tapestry, which opens into a lobby whence an ascent of six
steps leads by a passage 10 feet long into a triangular garderobe chamber, in
the substance of the wall. The vent discharges by a flush opening in the face
of the outer wall above the base. This chamber has an exterior loop.
At the opposite side of the great chamber to the entrance door from
below, a door similar to it opens upon a lobby 3 feet 10 inches by 7 feet 6
inches, whence rises a second staircase of thirty-four steps, leading to the
third floor. The passage is vaulted like that below, but is only 3 feet 6 inches
broad. It also winds with the wall, crossing over the great window, and
terminates in a lobby 3 feet 11 inches broad by 5 feet 5 inches deep, lighted
by a loop. The outer wall of the staircase is 5 feet 5 inches thick, the inner
wall something less, the whole thickness being 12 feet 6 inches. The lobby
opens by a full-centred doorway 3 feet 6 inches broad, into the third floor.
The third or oratory floor, has a set-off of 12 inches for the floor, and is
therefore 27 feet diameter. It is 16 feet 6 inches high. To the south-west is a
window closely resembling that below, also with steps and side seats. There
is also a fireplace above the last, rather smaller and more delicate in its
details, but of the same pattern and construction. The lintel is composed of
seven stones, joggled; it does not extend from wall to wall, but stops, as is
more usual, just clear of the jambs. The vent runs in front of the lower one,
and joins it above. Above the lower water drain is a second, in a small sort
of piscina recess, round-headed and trefoiled with cusps, but not chamfered.
square-headed doorway, 2 feet broad, and no doubt intended to be
concealed by tapestry, which opens into a lobby whence an ascent of six
steps leads by a passage 10 feet long into a triangular garderobe chamber, in
the substance of the wall. The vent discharges by a flush opening in the face
of the outer wall above the base. This chamber has an exterior loop.
At the opposite side of the great chamber to the entrance door from
below, a door similar to it opens upon a lobby 3 feet 10 inches by 7 feet 6
inches, whence rises a second staircase of thirty-four steps, leading to the
third floor. The passage is vaulted like that below, but is only 3 feet 6 inches
broad. It also winds with the wall, crossing over the great window, and
terminates in a lobby 3 feet 11 inches broad by 5 feet 5 inches deep, lighted
by a loop. The outer wall of the staircase is 5 feet 5 inches thick, the inner
wall something less, the whole thickness being 12 feet 6 inches. The lobby
opens by a full-centred doorway 3 feet 6 inches broad, into the third floor.
The third or oratory floor, has a set-off of 12 inches for the floor, and is
therefore 27 feet diameter. It is 16 feet 6 inches high. To the south-west is a
window closely resembling that below, also with steps and side seats. There
is also a fireplace above the last, rather smaller and more delicate in its
details, but of the same pattern and construction. The lintel is composed of
seven stones, joggled; it does not extend from wall to wall, but stops, as is
more usual, just clear of the jambs. The vent runs in front of the lower one,
and joins it above. Above the lower water drain is a second, in a small sort
of piscina recess, round-headed and trefoiled with cusps, but not chamfered.
Page 544
A·S·Ellis
THIRD FLOOR PLAN.
The oratory is a very remarkable feature in this floor. It occupies the
south-eastern buttress, opposite to the fireplace. A doorway of 2 feet 6
inches opening, the only flat-topped one on this floor, very plain, and
therefore meant to be concealed, opens into a short, straight passage leading
direct into the oratory. This is in plan a hexagon, 6 feet 4 inches broad at the
west end or entrance, 6 feet at the east or altar end, and having a length of
13 feet 6 inches contained between four sides averaging 6 feet. Its centre or
broadest part is 8 feet 8 inches. In each of its four main angles, flanking the
entrances and the altar, is a detached or nook-shaft 6 inches diameter, with a
foliated capital. The two central angles are each occupied by a half-shaft,
from which springs a triple cross rib, of which the laterals are plain rolls,
and the central worked in a chevron pattern. The area is thus divided into a
western and an eastern half, of which the latter is rather the smaller, and
may be taken to represent the chancel. Each division is crossed diagonally
by two ribs, in section plain bold rolls, at the intersections of which are
bosses of which the stones are big enough to form not only the boss, but
about six inches of each of its four ribs, and in one case the division
between the ribs is carved with flowers, with good effect. The bosses are
carved, that to the west with a sort of cross moline, shown in the drawing,
THIRD FLOOR PLAN.
The oratory is a very remarkable feature in this floor. It occupies the
south-eastern buttress, opposite to the fireplace. A doorway of 2 feet 6
inches opening, the only flat-topped one on this floor, very plain, and
therefore meant to be concealed, opens into a short, straight passage leading
direct into the oratory. This is in plan a hexagon, 6 feet 4 inches broad at the
west end or entrance, 6 feet at the east or altar end, and having a length of
13 feet 6 inches contained between four sides averaging 6 feet. Its centre or
broadest part is 8 feet 8 inches. In each of its four main angles, flanking the
entrances and the altar, is a detached or nook-shaft 6 inches diameter, with a
foliated capital. The two central angles are each occupied by a half-shaft,
from which springs a triple cross rib, of which the laterals are plain rolls,
and the central worked in a chevron pattern. The area is thus divided into a
western and an eastern half, of which the latter is rather the smaller, and
may be taken to represent the chancel. Each division is crossed diagonally
by two ribs, in section plain bold rolls, at the intersections of which are
bosses of which the stones are big enough to form not only the boss, but
about six inches of each of its four ribs, and in one case the division
between the ribs is carved with flowers, with good effect. The bosses are
carved, that to the west with a sort of cross moline, shown in the drawing,
Page 545
that next the altar with flowers. At the main angles the ribs spring from the
shafts, but the triple cross ribs spring from a sort of prolongation of the
capital and abacus of the half-shafts. The shafts flanking the altar have
capitals more ornate than the rest. The east window is a mere loop 6 inches
broad and 2 feet 6 inches high, round-headed, and placed in a splayed
recess of which the angles are replaced by a bold roll with foliated bases.
This, again, stands within a second and shallower recess, flanked with small
nook-shafts of which the capitals, delicately carved, range with those in the
flanking angles. The head is cut in chevron pattern. Right and left are two
small lights, quatrefoiled, but splayed inwards into circular recesses, 2 feet
8 inches diameter. Outside is a hollow moulding containing knobs or balls
scarcely seen from below. These windows have been called insertions, but,
though no doubt of a somewhat Decorated character, they have every
appearance of being original, and similar openings may be seen in the west
front, and near the summit of the very fine Early English tower of Old
Malton Church. Below each light is a trefoil-headed piscina of 1 foot 6
inches opening by 11 inches deep, of which that in the north wall has a
minute nailhead moulding. The height to the crown of the vault is about 14
feet, gained by stilting the arch. The altar is gone.
shafts, but the triple cross ribs spring from a sort of prolongation of the
capital and abacus of the half-shafts. The shafts flanking the altar have
capitals more ornate than the rest. The east window is a mere loop 6 inches
broad and 2 feet 6 inches high, round-headed, and placed in a splayed
recess of which the angles are replaced by a bold roll with foliated bases.
This, again, stands within a second and shallower recess, flanked with small
nook-shafts of which the capitals, delicately carved, range with those in the
flanking angles. The head is cut in chevron pattern. Right and left are two
small lights, quatrefoiled, but splayed inwards into circular recesses, 2 feet
8 inches diameter. Outside is a hollow moulding containing knobs or balls
scarcely seen from below. These windows have been called insertions, but,
though no doubt of a somewhat Decorated character, they have every
appearance of being original, and similar openings may be seen in the west
front, and near the summit of the very fine Early English tower of Old
Malton Church. Below each light is a trefoil-headed piscina of 1 foot 6
inches opening by 11 inches deep, of which that in the north wall has a
minute nailhead moulding. The height to the crown of the vault is about 14
feet, gained by stilting the arch. The altar is gone.
Page 546
Page 547
CONISBOROUGH CASTLE.—INTERIOR OF THE KEEP.
(From the Window Recess on Second Floor.)
CONISBOROUGH CASTLE.—INTERIOR OF THE
ORATORY OR CHAPEL.
(From the Window Recess on Second Floor.)
CONISBOROUGH CASTLE.—INTERIOR OF THE
ORATORY OR CHAPEL.
Page 548
CAPITALS OF CENTRE ARCH, NORTH SIDE.
On the left, on entering the oratory, a small flat-topped doorway leads
into a mural vestry of irregular form, about 9 feet long by 5 feet broad, with
a splayed loop, and in the end wall a trefoil-headed locker 2 feet broad by 1
foot 6 inches deep. The vestry is very plainly vaulted, the arch being a lean-
to against the wall of the oratory.
On the left, on entering the oratory, a small flat-topped doorway leads
into a mural vestry of irregular form, about 9 feet long by 5 feet broad, with
a splayed loop, and in the end wall a trefoil-headed locker 2 feet broad by 1
foot 6 inches deep. The vestry is very plainly vaulted, the arch being a lean-
to against the wall of the oratory.
Page 549
PLAN AT RAMPART LEVEL.
Between the oratory door and the fireplace, to the north, a doorway of 3
feet 4 inches opening enters a lobby 3 feet 10 inches by 7 feet, whence a
staircase of twenty-four stairs ascends, winding with the wall, to the
battlements and the fourth story. The staircase is 4 feet broad, and vaulted
with hanging ribs. The two lower staircases ascend from east to west by the
north, this ascends from west to east, also by the north, and passes over the
vestry. In the lobby is a door 1 foot 9 inches opening, whence a bent
passage 3 feet 4 inches broad, leads to a garderobe, the seat of which rests
upon an oblique or squint arch, which springs across the hollow angle
between the tower wall and one of the buttresses, and is placed,
inconveniently enough, over the loop at the head of the first flight of stairs.
Over the seat is a loop. Garderobes so placed, over a hollow angle, are
common in the Decorated period, but there is one on the outer wall at
Kenilworth, probably late Norman.
The staircase from this stage ends under a sort of hood which stands in
and nearly blocks up the rampart walk, leaving a passage only 2 feet 3
Between the oratory door and the fireplace, to the north, a doorway of 3
feet 4 inches opening enters a lobby 3 feet 10 inches by 7 feet, whence a
staircase of twenty-four stairs ascends, winding with the wall, to the
battlements and the fourth story. The staircase is 4 feet broad, and vaulted
with hanging ribs. The two lower staircases ascend from east to west by the
north, this ascends from west to east, also by the north, and passes over the
vestry. In the lobby is a door 1 foot 9 inches opening, whence a bent
passage 3 feet 4 inches broad, leads to a garderobe, the seat of which rests
upon an oblique or squint arch, which springs across the hollow angle
between the tower wall and one of the buttresses, and is placed,
inconveniently enough, over the loop at the head of the first flight of stairs.
Over the seat is a loop. Garderobes so placed, over a hollow angle, are
common in the Decorated period, but there is one on the outer wall at
Kenilworth, probably late Norman.
The staircase from this stage ends under a sort of hood which stands in
and nearly blocks up the rampart walk, leaving a passage only 2 feet 3
Page 550
inches wide between it and the wall of the battlement. The tower wall at the
level of the rampart walk is 12 feet 6 inches thick, of which the battlement
wall occupies 2 feet, the rampart walk 8 feet, and an inner wall 2 feet 6
inches, within which was the upper or fourth floor. The rampart walk was
thus a gallery open above, having the battlement wall outside, and the wall
of the upper floor in its rear. The vents of the two fireplaces were connected
with this inner wall, and reached its summit by an opening 7 inches by 12
inches, divided by a tile-stone 6 inches thick. This aperture is contained
within the base of a chimney-shaft 3 feet 9 inches by 3 feet. This shaft, like
the stair-hood, somewhat reduced the breadth of the rampart walk. The
upper part is gone. The dividing stones end about 2 feet below the rampart
level, above which the vents were combined.
The six buttresses rose as turrets
above the crest of the parapet. That to
the north-west, near the chimney-
shaft, and its neighbour westward,
contain half-round recesses, round the
curve of which are short staircases,
opening from the rampart walk, and
which probably ascended to small
parapeted platforms, now gone. The
buttress to the south contains, as at
Orford, an oven, circular, 7 feet across, with a segmental arched door 2 feet
wide. The two buttresses to the north and north-east are occupied by two
cavities, probably cisterns, half-hexagons in plan, and 2 feet 6 inches deep
below the rampart wall level. Each would contain about 650 gallons. The
remaining buttress, that above the oratory, contains a half-hexagonal recess
or alcove, the floor of which is 9 inches above the rampart wall. It is 9 feet
broad at the opening, 5 feet broad at the end, and 8 feet 8 inches deep. It is
covered in with a round-headed vault tapering to fit the plan. The height at
the entrance is 7 feet 6 inches, and at the inner end 5 feet 7 inches. There
are no loops, but the walls of this chamber and the adjacent parts of the
parapet are pierced by a number of holes, about 6 inches high by 5 inches
broad. These have been supposed to be intended to carry the floor spars of a
bretasche or wooden gallery, though they are small for such a purpose, and
there are no holes or corbels below for struts. Moreover, these holes are
confined to the buttress over the oratory and the adjacent walls, and are not
level of the rampart walk is 12 feet 6 inches thick, of which the battlement
wall occupies 2 feet, the rampart walk 8 feet, and an inner wall 2 feet 6
inches, within which was the upper or fourth floor. The rampart walk was
thus a gallery open above, having the battlement wall outside, and the wall
of the upper floor in its rear. The vents of the two fireplaces were connected
with this inner wall, and reached its summit by an opening 7 inches by 12
inches, divided by a tile-stone 6 inches thick. This aperture is contained
within the base of a chimney-shaft 3 feet 9 inches by 3 feet. This shaft, like
the stair-hood, somewhat reduced the breadth of the rampart walk. The
upper part is gone. The dividing stones end about 2 feet below the rampart
level, above which the vents were combined.
The six buttresses rose as turrets
above the crest of the parapet. That to
the north-west, near the chimney-
shaft, and its neighbour westward,
contain half-round recesses, round the
curve of which are short staircases,
opening from the rampart walk, and
which probably ascended to small
parapeted platforms, now gone. The
buttress to the south contains, as at
Orford, an oven, circular, 7 feet across, with a segmental arched door 2 feet
wide. The two buttresses to the north and north-east are occupied by two
cavities, probably cisterns, half-hexagons in plan, and 2 feet 6 inches deep
below the rampart wall level. Each would contain about 650 gallons. The
remaining buttress, that above the oratory, contains a half-hexagonal recess
or alcove, the floor of which is 9 inches above the rampart wall. It is 9 feet
broad at the opening, 5 feet broad at the end, and 8 feet 8 inches deep. It is
covered in with a round-headed vault tapering to fit the plan. The height at
the entrance is 7 feet 6 inches, and at the inner end 5 feet 7 inches. There
are no loops, but the walls of this chamber and the adjacent parts of the
parapet are pierced by a number of holes, about 6 inches high by 5 inches
broad. These have been supposed to be intended to carry the floor spars of a
bretasche or wooden gallery, though they are small for such a purpose, and
there are no holes or corbels below for struts. Moreover, these holes are
confined to the buttress over the oratory and the adjacent walls, and are not
Page 551
straight (see plan). They extend, it is true, over the main entrance, but had
they been intended for its defence they would probably have been placed
with the door beneath their centre instead of below one end of the line. That
is, they would have been placed in the two flanking buttresses as well as in
the bay between them. It has been suggested that these are pigeon-holes,
and no doubt, during a strict siege a good supply of these birds might have
been found useful. There are certain holes in the keep at Rochester, that
probably were so intended, and that are, or recently were, so used.
A·S·Ellis
SUGGESTED ORIGINAL APPEARANCE.
they been intended for its defence they would probably have been placed
with the door beneath their centre instead of below one end of the line. That
is, they would have been placed in the two flanking buttresses as well as in
the bay between them. It has been suggested that these are pigeon-holes,
and no doubt, during a strict siege a good supply of these birds might have
been found useful. There are certain holes in the keep at Rochester, that
probably were so intended, and that are, or recently were, so used.
A·S·Ellis
SUGGESTED ORIGINAL APPEARANCE.
Page 552
The height of the parapet is 6 feet 6 inches, and the pattern of the coping
may be seen at the junction with the buttress turrets, and this also shows
that the roof was confined to the inner circle, and did not project over the
parapet. There are also traces showing that the embrasures contained, as at
Alnwick, a hanging shutter.
The inner circle, or chamber within the inner walls, was 27 feet diameter,
and its flooring rested upon a range of nineteen plain corbels. Only the
lower part of the wall of this chamber remains, but the jambs of a doorway
show that it was entered from the rampart walk. The wall, and consequently
the chamber, was about 7 feet high, and upon it was a conical covering, the
eaves of which must have projected somewhat over, and discharged their
water into the rampart walk. This mode of finishing off the summit of a
tower, by placing the uppermost floor within the circuit of the rampart walk
and leaving the battlements free from the roof, is seen in its greatest
completeness at Coucy, and what is there seen illustrates what must have
been the arrangement here, at Pembroke, at Martens Tower, Chepstow, and
in the smaller and later flanking towers of Holyrood House. It is obvious
that unless the roof sprung here from a wall within the parapets, or unless
there was a timber gallery carried round outside the wall, such a tower as
this could not be defended. Its loops were intended for light and air, not for
defence; this could only have been directed from the battlements. Hence the
absurdity of covering in towers intended for defence, or at any rate to have
the appearance of being defensible, with conical roofs springing from the
outer wall.
Of course the accommodations of such a tower as this of Conisborough
were not such as to suit its lords, still less their ladies, save under the
pressure or in expectation of a siege, a remark which applies to all, save the
largest, keeps. The passive strength of Conisborough, and its rocky base,
secured it against attacks even if seconded by engineering machinery. No
catapult or battering-ram would be at all likely to shake or break it. The
peril to be guarded against was a blockade, and with this view there was a
well within the tower, and the two lower floors, it is clear, were intended for
the storage of provisions. The first floor would be the ordinary room of the
constable, or lord, and of his family or guests; the men, probably, also
sleeping there. The room above would be the ladies’ room, with the oratory
close at hand. The kitchen was above all, and there, also, at the battlement
may be seen at the junction with the buttress turrets, and this also shows
that the roof was confined to the inner circle, and did not project over the
parapet. There are also traces showing that the embrasures contained, as at
Alnwick, a hanging shutter.
The inner circle, or chamber within the inner walls, was 27 feet diameter,
and its flooring rested upon a range of nineteen plain corbels. Only the
lower part of the wall of this chamber remains, but the jambs of a doorway
show that it was entered from the rampart walk. The wall, and consequently
the chamber, was about 7 feet high, and upon it was a conical covering, the
eaves of which must have projected somewhat over, and discharged their
water into the rampart walk. This mode of finishing off the summit of a
tower, by placing the uppermost floor within the circuit of the rampart walk
and leaving the battlements free from the roof, is seen in its greatest
completeness at Coucy, and what is there seen illustrates what must have
been the arrangement here, at Pembroke, at Martens Tower, Chepstow, and
in the smaller and later flanking towers of Holyrood House. It is obvious
that unless the roof sprung here from a wall within the parapets, or unless
there was a timber gallery carried round outside the wall, such a tower as
this could not be defended. Its loops were intended for light and air, not for
defence; this could only have been directed from the battlements. Hence the
absurdity of covering in towers intended for defence, or at any rate to have
the appearance of being defensible, with conical roofs springing from the
outer wall.
Of course the accommodations of such a tower as this of Conisborough
were not such as to suit its lords, still less their ladies, save under the
pressure or in expectation of a siege, a remark which applies to all, save the
largest, keeps. The passive strength of Conisborough, and its rocky base,
secured it against attacks even if seconded by engineering machinery. No
catapult or battering-ram would be at all likely to shake or break it. The
peril to be guarded against was a blockade, and with this view there was a
well within the tower, and the two lower floors, it is clear, were intended for
the storage of provisions. The first floor would be the ordinary room of the
constable, or lord, and of his family or guests; the men, probably, also
sleeping there. The room above would be the ladies’ room, with the oratory
close at hand. The kitchen was above all, and there, also, at the battlement
Page 553
level, would be the lodging of the small garrison, probably of not more than
ten or a dozen picked men, with a ready communication with the ramparts.
The fashion of round keep towers, quite different from the shell keeps,
came in towards the close of the Norman and during the Early English
period of architecture, when frequent communication with the East had
affected men’s military ideas. A few, such as Brunless, Tretower,
Launceston, and Orford, are found in England of that time, but in France
there are many, widely spread, and very grand examples. Philip Augustus
was a great builder of such towers. That of the Louvre, of which the circular
foundations, with the well and the sewer, were uncovered a few years ago,
was his work, and to the same period, though late in it, 1223–30, belongs
the Tower of Coucy, probably the finest military structure ever built.
Taking a general view of the Castle of Conisborough, and giving due
weight to the value of the evidence afforded by its remains, it is clear that
the excavation of the ditch, both of the hill and the outwork, and the
scarping of the former, were the original and English works, to which an
early, though not the earliest, Norman lord added the curtain wall of the
enceinte, and much of the lower gatehouse. He certainly also built a hall,
kitchen, and lodgings within the inner area. The next addition of
importance, the keep, was certainly made a century later. The curtain wall
was taken down to make room for a part of it, and not only was there no
bond between the old wall and the new tower, but the junction was
carelessly and clumsily effected, as may be seen from its present condition.
Probably some later alterations were made as regards the hall and lodgings.
The wall near the entrance to the inner ward seems to have been partially
rebuilt, but subsequently to this there does not seem to have been any
addition of importance. The castle was no doubt rendered untenable during
the wars of Charles I., and time and neglect have since completed the ruin.
It is singular that so strong and so remarkable a fortress should be but
little noticed in the earlier records. Invention, indeed, in the absence of
evidence, has attempted to fasten upon it an early history. “Conyng” has, by
British antiquaries, been converted into a Breton Conan, and Caer-Conan,
thus constructed, has been mixed up with Aurelius Ambrosius and the
Kentish Hengist, who is asserted to have here fought, been slain and buried.
There is, however, no evidence whatever connecting this place with either
the Britons or Bretons, or the Romans, or Hengist. Everything bearing upon
ten or a dozen picked men, with a ready communication with the ramparts.
The fashion of round keep towers, quite different from the shell keeps,
came in towards the close of the Norman and during the Early English
period of architecture, when frequent communication with the East had
affected men’s military ideas. A few, such as Brunless, Tretower,
Launceston, and Orford, are found in England of that time, but in France
there are many, widely spread, and very grand examples. Philip Augustus
was a great builder of such towers. That of the Louvre, of which the circular
foundations, with the well and the sewer, were uncovered a few years ago,
was his work, and to the same period, though late in it, 1223–30, belongs
the Tower of Coucy, probably the finest military structure ever built.
Taking a general view of the Castle of Conisborough, and giving due
weight to the value of the evidence afforded by its remains, it is clear that
the excavation of the ditch, both of the hill and the outwork, and the
scarping of the former, were the original and English works, to which an
early, though not the earliest, Norman lord added the curtain wall of the
enceinte, and much of the lower gatehouse. He certainly also built a hall,
kitchen, and lodgings within the inner area. The next addition of
importance, the keep, was certainly made a century later. The curtain wall
was taken down to make room for a part of it, and not only was there no
bond between the old wall and the new tower, but the junction was
carelessly and clumsily effected, as may be seen from its present condition.
Probably some later alterations were made as regards the hall and lodgings.
The wall near the entrance to the inner ward seems to have been partially
rebuilt, but subsequently to this there does not seem to have been any
addition of importance. The castle was no doubt rendered untenable during
the wars of Charles I., and time and neglect have since completed the ruin.
It is singular that so strong and so remarkable a fortress should be but
little noticed in the earlier records. Invention, indeed, in the absence of
evidence, has attempted to fasten upon it an early history. “Conyng” has, by
British antiquaries, been converted into a Breton Conan, and Caer-Conan,
thus constructed, has been mixed up with Aurelius Ambrosius and the
Kentish Hengist, who is asserted to have here fought, been slain and buried.
There is, however, no evidence whatever connecting this place with either
the Britons or Bretons, or the Romans, or Hengist. Everything bearing upon
Page 554
its origin is Saxon, but Saxon of a much later date than Hengist. Two
tombstones carved in what is generally regarded as a præconquistal style
were long seen in the churchyard, and are now placed for security in the
church—so securely placed, indeed, as to be scarcely visible. The earliest
mention of the place is probably in the testament of Wulfric Spot, the
minister of King Ethelred, and the founder, in 1004, of the Abbey of
Burton-on-Trent. By this document, printed by Dugdale in his Monasticon
[I. 266], Wulfric bequeaths to Ælfred certain lands and fisheries of
Cunuzesbury, so that about a.d. 1000 it belonged to that great Saxon. Mr.
Hunter, whose history of Conisborough leaves nothing to be desired, points
out that this devise was really a very ample one, for the fisheries were not
those of the Don but of a part of the Soke of Hatfield, which were of great
value. In Domesday, the lord of “Coningesboro” had twenty fisheries at
Tudworth, yielding each 1,000 eels, and long afterwards they were
important enough to be specially recorded. It seems therefore probable that,
at least as early as the year 1000, Conisborough was the head of a large
estate or Soke. The name of “Moothill field,” borne by an enclosure about
three-quarters of a mile south-east of the castle, indicates the place of the
court for the liberty or jurisdiction. The hill has been removed. There is a
Moot-hall near the church.
While the castle has retained something of its ancient name, that of the
ferry over the Don at its foot has undergone translation, and is known as
Kingsferry. Who the king was who gave name to both has long been
unknown; probably he was of Northumbria. The old Soke, the growth of
centuries, received its final consolidation at the Conquest, when it was
granted by William the King to William Earl Warren. At that time the fee
was probably one extensive parish, for Conisborough seems to have been
the mother church of Barthwell, Hatfield, and Sandal, three churches named
in Domesday. Conisborough as a parish church, therefore, thinks Mr.
Hunter, can scarcely be later than Ælfred, and may be older than even
Doncaster itself. Such is the antiquity of the memories and speculations
with which this very remarkable place is associated.
Immediately before the Conquest it belonged to Harold the Earl. Earl
Warren evidently took it as it stood, and seated himself in the English
“Aula” at Conisborough, having about him the twenty-eight vills which
either wholly or in part were appended to it, and which included much of
tombstones carved in what is generally regarded as a præconquistal style
were long seen in the churchyard, and are now placed for security in the
church—so securely placed, indeed, as to be scarcely visible. The earliest
mention of the place is probably in the testament of Wulfric Spot, the
minister of King Ethelred, and the founder, in 1004, of the Abbey of
Burton-on-Trent. By this document, printed by Dugdale in his Monasticon
[I. 266], Wulfric bequeaths to Ælfred certain lands and fisheries of
Cunuzesbury, so that about a.d. 1000 it belonged to that great Saxon. Mr.
Hunter, whose history of Conisborough leaves nothing to be desired, points
out that this devise was really a very ample one, for the fisheries were not
those of the Don but of a part of the Soke of Hatfield, which were of great
value. In Domesday, the lord of “Coningesboro” had twenty fisheries at
Tudworth, yielding each 1,000 eels, and long afterwards they were
important enough to be specially recorded. It seems therefore probable that,
at least as early as the year 1000, Conisborough was the head of a large
estate or Soke. The name of “Moothill field,” borne by an enclosure about
three-quarters of a mile south-east of the castle, indicates the place of the
court for the liberty or jurisdiction. The hill has been removed. There is a
Moot-hall near the church.
While the castle has retained something of its ancient name, that of the
ferry over the Don at its foot has undergone translation, and is known as
Kingsferry. Who the king was who gave name to both has long been
unknown; probably he was of Northumbria. The old Soke, the growth of
centuries, received its final consolidation at the Conquest, when it was
granted by William the King to William Earl Warren. At that time the fee
was probably one extensive parish, for Conisborough seems to have been
the mother church of Barthwell, Hatfield, and Sandal, three churches named
in Domesday. Conisborough as a parish church, therefore, thinks Mr.
Hunter, can scarcely be later than Ælfred, and may be older than even
Doncaster itself. Such is the antiquity of the memories and speculations
with which this very remarkable place is associated.
Immediately before the Conquest it belonged to Harold the Earl. Earl
Warren evidently took it as it stood, and seated himself in the English
“Aula” at Conisborough, having about him the twenty-eight vills which
either wholly or in part were appended to it, and which included much of
Page 555
the Wapentakes of Strafordes and Siraches. These were the lands “quæ
pertinent ad Coningesberc,” and which formed the “Socæ pertinens.”
The possessions of Earl Warren in England were extensive, but were
especially valuable in Sussex, Norfolk, and Yorkshire; and what Lewes was
to the former Conisborough was to the latter, and as the Soke became an
Honour the castle was its “caput.” In Earl Warren’s foundation charter to
Lewes Priory in 1078, it is provided that the monks should find him
lodgings as he went and returned from Yorkshire, so that when he crossed
from Normandy he took Lewes on his way. The connexion between his two
lordships he cemented by giving to Lewes the church of Conisborough. Earl
William was created Earl of Surrey about 1088, and died in 1089, and
among his possessions stand enumerated the Lordship and Soke of
Conisborough, with twenty-eight vills and hamlets.
II. William Earl of Surrey, son and heir, supported Robert Curthose
against Henry II., and with him retired to Normandy. On being pardoned,
and his earldom of Surrey restored, he changed sides and fought for Henry
at Tinchebrai. He gave to Roche Abbey the tythe of his Hatfield fisheries.
He died 1138.
III. William Earl of Surrey, his son and heir, the third earl, joined in the
mixed French, German, and English Crusade in 1145, during which, in
1148, he fell, leaving a daughter and heiress.
IV. Isabel de Warren, who married, first, William de Blois, a natural son
of King Stephen; and, secondly, Hameline Plantagenet, natural son of
Geoffry Earl of Anjou, and half-brother to Henry II.
William was Earl of Boulogne and Mortaigne, and, by his wife, possibly
of Surrey. He died childless 1160.
King Henry seems to have taken and held the earldoms for a while in his
own hands, but, in 1163, Isabel married Hameline Plantagenet, who enjoyed
her honours and estates and, 12 Henry II., paid scutage on sixty knights’
fees. Hameline bore the probably Norman title of Earl Warren, and was an
active soldier in his day, a faithful servant to Richard I., and much
employed in transactions both of peace and war. Also, though engaged
occasionally in Normandy, he appears to have passed most of his time in
England, and was by no means an unlikely man to have added the keep to
pertinent ad Coningesberc,” and which formed the “Socæ pertinens.”
The possessions of Earl Warren in England were extensive, but were
especially valuable in Sussex, Norfolk, and Yorkshire; and what Lewes was
to the former Conisborough was to the latter, and as the Soke became an
Honour the castle was its “caput.” In Earl Warren’s foundation charter to
Lewes Priory in 1078, it is provided that the monks should find him
lodgings as he went and returned from Yorkshire, so that when he crossed
from Normandy he took Lewes on his way. The connexion between his two
lordships he cemented by giving to Lewes the church of Conisborough. Earl
William was created Earl of Surrey about 1088, and died in 1089, and
among his possessions stand enumerated the Lordship and Soke of
Conisborough, with twenty-eight vills and hamlets.
II. William Earl of Surrey, son and heir, supported Robert Curthose
against Henry II., and with him retired to Normandy. On being pardoned,
and his earldom of Surrey restored, he changed sides and fought for Henry
at Tinchebrai. He gave to Roche Abbey the tythe of his Hatfield fisheries.
He died 1138.
III. William Earl of Surrey, his son and heir, the third earl, joined in the
mixed French, German, and English Crusade in 1145, during which, in
1148, he fell, leaving a daughter and heiress.
IV. Isabel de Warren, who married, first, William de Blois, a natural son
of King Stephen; and, secondly, Hameline Plantagenet, natural son of
Geoffry Earl of Anjou, and half-brother to Henry II.
William was Earl of Boulogne and Mortaigne, and, by his wife, possibly
of Surrey. He died childless 1160.
King Henry seems to have taken and held the earldoms for a while in his
own hands, but, in 1163, Isabel married Hameline Plantagenet, who enjoyed
her honours and estates and, 12 Henry II., paid scutage on sixty knights’
fees. Hameline bore the probably Norman title of Earl Warren, and was an
active soldier in his day, a faithful servant to Richard I., and much
employed in transactions both of peace and war. Also, though engaged
occasionally in Normandy, he appears to have passed most of his time in
England, and was by no means an unlikely man to have added the keep to
Page 556
his castle of Conisborough. He died 3 John, 1201, Isabel having died in
1199. Their son succeeded. Earl Hameline founded an endowment for a
priest for the chapel of St. Philip and James within the castle. This probably
stood in the courtyard for the use of the garrison, for, 11 Edward II., the
Earl of Lancaster gave timber from the wood of Conisborough to repair the
roof of the chapel within the castle, which therefore could not be the oratory
in the keep, which is vaulted. King John was here March 12, 1201, probably
taking advantage of the earl’s death to view the castle and possessions.
V. William Plantagenet, or de Warren, son and heir of Hameline and
Isabel, who succeeded as fourth Earl of Surrey, was probably then of age, as
he had livery at the least of some of his lands, 4 John, 1202. He held the
earldom for an unusually long time, and much added to its wealth and
consequence. As a Magna Charta Baron, he behaved with great moderation,
and upon John’s death he swore allegiance to Henry. He married, first,
Maud, a daughter of the Earl of Arundel; and, secondly, Maud, widow of
Hugh Bigot, Earl of Norfolk and Earl Marshal, by a daughter of the great
William Marshal. He died 1240, 24–5 Henry III., leaving a son, John.
Maud, the earl’s widow, had livery, 30 Henry III., of the rod and office of
Earl Marshal, as elder co-heir of her brother. She also held the custody of
the castles of Conisborough and Chepstow until her death in 1246, 32
Henry III.
Their son and successor, VI. John, fifth Earl of Surrey, who succeeded at
five years old, married in 1247, being then very young, Alice le Brun, who
died 1290, half-sister of Henry III. In 1254 he paid an aid upon sixty
knights’ fees. He lacked much of the prudence of his father, and his general
character was scarcely in accord with his famous answer to the “Quo
Warranto” of Edward I., to whom, however, he was a better subject than to
his sire. He died 32 Edward I., 1304, having held the earldom sixty-four
years. He was summoned to Parliament as Earl of Surrey and Sussex.
William his son died 14 Edward I., 1286, and therefore before his father.
His son, and the successor to the earldom, was, VII. John de Warren or
Plantagenet, sixth Earl of Surrey, a posthumous child, born 1286. When
nineteen years of age, he married Joan, daughter of the Earl of Barr, but had
by her no issue. 17 Edward II. Conisborough Castle was in the king’s
hands, and 18 Edward II. he appointed the Constable. 19 Edward II. the earl
recovered his estates, but had surrendered them to the king and his heirs,
1199. Their son succeeded. Earl Hameline founded an endowment for a
priest for the chapel of St. Philip and James within the castle. This probably
stood in the courtyard for the use of the garrison, for, 11 Edward II., the
Earl of Lancaster gave timber from the wood of Conisborough to repair the
roof of the chapel within the castle, which therefore could not be the oratory
in the keep, which is vaulted. King John was here March 12, 1201, probably
taking advantage of the earl’s death to view the castle and possessions.
V. William Plantagenet, or de Warren, son and heir of Hameline and
Isabel, who succeeded as fourth Earl of Surrey, was probably then of age, as
he had livery at the least of some of his lands, 4 John, 1202. He held the
earldom for an unusually long time, and much added to its wealth and
consequence. As a Magna Charta Baron, he behaved with great moderation,
and upon John’s death he swore allegiance to Henry. He married, first,
Maud, a daughter of the Earl of Arundel; and, secondly, Maud, widow of
Hugh Bigot, Earl of Norfolk and Earl Marshal, by a daughter of the great
William Marshal. He died 1240, 24–5 Henry III., leaving a son, John.
Maud, the earl’s widow, had livery, 30 Henry III., of the rod and office of
Earl Marshal, as elder co-heir of her brother. She also held the custody of
the castles of Conisborough and Chepstow until her death in 1246, 32
Henry III.
Their son and successor, VI. John, fifth Earl of Surrey, who succeeded at
five years old, married in 1247, being then very young, Alice le Brun, who
died 1290, half-sister of Henry III. In 1254 he paid an aid upon sixty
knights’ fees. He lacked much of the prudence of his father, and his general
character was scarcely in accord with his famous answer to the “Quo
Warranto” of Edward I., to whom, however, he was a better subject than to
his sire. He died 32 Edward I., 1304, having held the earldom sixty-four
years. He was summoned to Parliament as Earl of Surrey and Sussex.
William his son died 14 Edward I., 1286, and therefore before his father.
His son, and the successor to the earldom, was, VII. John de Warren or
Plantagenet, sixth Earl of Surrey, a posthumous child, born 1286. When
nineteen years of age, he married Joan, daughter of the Earl of Barr, but had
by her no issue. 17 Edward II. Conisborough Castle was in the king’s
hands, and 18 Edward II. he appointed the Constable. 19 Edward II. the earl
recovered his estates, but had surrendered them to the king and his heirs,
Page 557
taking a re-grant for his own life. He was also both Earl of Sussex and Earl
of Strathern in Scotland. Joan Countess of Surrey was at her castles at
Sandal and Conisborough in 1314.
Earl John died 1347, and his will is dated from Conisburgh Castle, and
the title of Surrey seems to have gone to Edward Earl of Arundel, son of
Alice, Earl John’s sister. Besides natural daughters, he left two sons by
Maud de Nerford, John and Thomas de Warren, to whom and their mother
he left, with the king’s permission, a very considerable property, including
Conisborough. Thomas Earl of Lancaster seems to have obtained from Earl
John some sort of forced occupation of Conisborough, which came to an
end upon his attainder, so that Earl John recovered and died seized of it.
About its descent there is some uncertainty, for Henry, the brother and
heir of Earl Thomas of Lancaster, did homage for the castle, 1 Edward III.,
to which John, Earl Warren, laid claim. Earl John held it 5 Edward III., and
agreed to a grant of 65 acres of the waste lands of the manor by the king to
William de Skargill. Similar grants were made in the five following years
by the earl and confirmed by the king, with a note that the earl’s tenure was
for life only.
Probably the children of Maud de Nerford found it to their interest to
allow the Crown to possess the castle, for at Earl John’s death it was held
by Edward III., who granted the castle to Edmund of Langley, his fifth son,
afterwards Duke of York, who died 1402, from whom it descended to his
son Edward, also Duke of York. He fell at Agincourt, childless, 1415, and
was succeeded by Richard, son to his brother Richard Earl of Cambridge.
He became Duke of York, and was called also Richard of Conisborough,
from his birth in the castle. Richard, who was great-grandson of Edward III.
and father of Edward IV., was slain at Wakefield, 1460. His second wife and
widow, Maud Clifford, held the castle in dower, and lived here. She died
1464. The decay of the castle probably dates from her death, for Edward
Duke of York, who succeeded, became Edward IV., and nothing has
generally proved more fatal to an independent historic estate than its
absorption by the Crown.
Conisborough remained in the Crown, and, though probably the
buildings were suffered to fall into decay, some of the offices attached to
the castle and domain were kept up. As late as 1522, Sir H. Wyatt and John
of Strathern in Scotland. Joan Countess of Surrey was at her castles at
Sandal and Conisborough in 1314.
Earl John died 1347, and his will is dated from Conisburgh Castle, and
the title of Surrey seems to have gone to Edward Earl of Arundel, son of
Alice, Earl John’s sister. Besides natural daughters, he left two sons by
Maud de Nerford, John and Thomas de Warren, to whom and their mother
he left, with the king’s permission, a very considerable property, including
Conisborough. Thomas Earl of Lancaster seems to have obtained from Earl
John some sort of forced occupation of Conisborough, which came to an
end upon his attainder, so that Earl John recovered and died seized of it.
About its descent there is some uncertainty, for Henry, the brother and
heir of Earl Thomas of Lancaster, did homage for the castle, 1 Edward III.,
to which John, Earl Warren, laid claim. Earl John held it 5 Edward III., and
agreed to a grant of 65 acres of the waste lands of the manor by the king to
William de Skargill. Similar grants were made in the five following years
by the earl and confirmed by the king, with a note that the earl’s tenure was
for life only.
Probably the children of Maud de Nerford found it to their interest to
allow the Crown to possess the castle, for at Earl John’s death it was held
by Edward III., who granted the castle to Edmund of Langley, his fifth son,
afterwards Duke of York, who died 1402, from whom it descended to his
son Edward, also Duke of York. He fell at Agincourt, childless, 1415, and
was succeeded by Richard, son to his brother Richard Earl of Cambridge.
He became Duke of York, and was called also Richard of Conisborough,
from his birth in the castle. Richard, who was great-grandson of Edward III.
and father of Edward IV., was slain at Wakefield, 1460. His second wife and
widow, Maud Clifford, held the castle in dower, and lived here. She died
1464. The decay of the castle probably dates from her death, for Edward
Duke of York, who succeeded, became Edward IV., and nothing has
generally proved more fatal to an independent historic estate than its
absorption by the Crown.
Conisborough remained in the Crown, and, though probably the
buildings were suffered to fall into decay, some of the offices attached to
the castle and domain were kept up. As late as 1522, Sir H. Wyatt and John
Page 558
Melton were bailiffs and stewards of “the lordships of Conysborowe,”
keepers of the park, &c., and there were constables and door-wards of the
castle. Finally, James II. granted it to Carey, Earl of Dover, from whose
family it passed to that of its present owner. King, in his “Munimenta,” has
given elaborate plans, and a yet more elaborate history of this castle, but
neither can be depended upon. There is also an excellent paper upon it in
the fifth volume of the Archæological Journal by Mr. Milward, the plans
attached to which seem, however, to be taken from King.
Conisborough Castle deserves a better fate than has of late years attended
it, or than seems likely to attend it. Its position upon one of the most
celebrated of the Yorkshire streams, its grand natural mount, and the
striking character of the earthworks by which it is defended, are quite
enough to attract public attention; but in addition it has an undoubted
though obscure Saxon history, and from the Norman Conquest it was for
three centuries or more the residence of a very powerful race of barons, the
evidences of whose power and wealth are preserved in the ruins of their
fortress. By whom, or precisely when, the present works in masonry were
executed, is a question not exactly to be decided. William de Warren, the
third and last earl of the old stock, 1138–1148, was a very likely man to
have built in masonry this his most important northern castle, and it is
probable that he built the enceinte wall of the inner court, and the hall and
offices now destroyed. The keep is certainly later, scarcely much earlier
than 1200, and is, therefore, probably the work of Hameline Plantagenet,
who held the earldom and the castle from about 1163 to 1201. The tower
was, no doubt, added for security only, for, though it contains state
apartments and an oratory, these were dark and inconvenient, only fit to be
inhabited during a siege. The hall and ordinary lodgings were, of course,
more spacious and placed in the court, where are still traces of their
foundations.
At a still later period, possibly under Earl John, who held the earldom
from 1240 to 1304, the Norman curtain seems to have been repaired and
strengthened with round bastion turrets, small and solid, along the southern
and western faces of the inner ward. Then also the arrangements for
crossing the ditch, and defending the lower entrance, were made more
elaborate. The work of this period is of inferior quality, and much of it has
keepers of the park, &c., and there were constables and door-wards of the
castle. Finally, James II. granted it to Carey, Earl of Dover, from whose
family it passed to that of its present owner. King, in his “Munimenta,” has
given elaborate plans, and a yet more elaborate history of this castle, but
neither can be depended upon. There is also an excellent paper upon it in
the fifth volume of the Archæological Journal by Mr. Milward, the plans
attached to which seem, however, to be taken from King.
Conisborough Castle deserves a better fate than has of late years attended
it, or than seems likely to attend it. Its position upon one of the most
celebrated of the Yorkshire streams, its grand natural mount, and the
striking character of the earthworks by which it is defended, are quite
enough to attract public attention; but in addition it has an undoubted
though obscure Saxon history, and from the Norman Conquest it was for
three centuries or more the residence of a very powerful race of barons, the
evidences of whose power and wealth are preserved in the ruins of their
fortress. By whom, or precisely when, the present works in masonry were
executed, is a question not exactly to be decided. William de Warren, the
third and last earl of the old stock, 1138–1148, was a very likely man to
have built in masonry this his most important northern castle, and it is
probable that he built the enceinte wall of the inner court, and the hall and
offices now destroyed. The keep is certainly later, scarcely much earlier
than 1200, and is, therefore, probably the work of Hameline Plantagenet,
who held the earldom and the castle from about 1163 to 1201. The tower
was, no doubt, added for security only, for, though it contains state
apartments and an oratory, these were dark and inconvenient, only fit to be
inhabited during a siege. The hall and ordinary lodgings were, of course,
more spacious and placed in the court, where are still traces of their
foundations.
At a still later period, possibly under Earl John, who held the earldom
from 1240 to 1304, the Norman curtain seems to have been repaired and
strengthened with round bastion turrets, small and solid, along the southern
and western faces of the inner ward. Then also the arrangements for
crossing the ditch, and defending the lower entrance, were made more
elaborate. The work of this period is of inferior quality, and much of it has
Page 559
fallen down. Since this no additions of any importance seem to have been
executed.
It is probable that, during the civil war and after the death of King
Charles, the curtain wall, domestic buildings, and lower gate-house were
broken down, and the keep gutted and unroofed, but since that time, now
nearly two centuries and a half, the ruins seem to have been left untouched
save by the hand of time. Such is the excellence of the workmanship of the
keep that for very many years the walls stood unshaken. During the last
quarter of a century, however, the rains of autumn and the frosts of winter
have begun to tell upon the structure, and the top of the tower is in a shaky
condition. Still, it is not so far gone but that a few pounds judiciously laid
out upon it would save it. The upper two or three feet should be removed,
stone by stone, and replaced with water-lime or cement. The cost of this
would be very trifling indeed; but what should also be done, and what
would not by any means involve a very serious expense, is the replacement
of the roof and floors. All Yorkshire, and indeed all the Archæological
Societies in England, from the Society of Antiquaries down to the most
recent local society, must feel an interest in this subject. Probably, if it were
brought before the owner of the castle in a proper manner, the necessary
repairs would be undertaken; if not, surely it would not be difficult to
provide the means by private subscription. In any case something should be
done at once, for the top of the keep is in that condition that every winter
tells severely upon it.
The plans and illustrations appended to this notice of the castle are from
actual survey by Mr. A. S. Ellis, and by him presented to the Yorkshire
Archæological Society, by whose permission they are here reprinted. They
will be found as far superior in accuracy as in completeness of detail to any
plans as yet published, and it may be said of them, and it is no slight praise,
that they are worthy of the important fortress they are intended to illustrate.
executed.
It is probable that, during the civil war and after the death of King
Charles, the curtain wall, domestic buildings, and lower gate-house were
broken down, and the keep gutted and unroofed, but since that time, now
nearly two centuries and a half, the ruins seem to have been left untouched
save by the hand of time. Such is the excellence of the workmanship of the
keep that for very many years the walls stood unshaken. During the last
quarter of a century, however, the rains of autumn and the frosts of winter
have begun to tell upon the structure, and the top of the tower is in a shaky
condition. Still, it is not so far gone but that a few pounds judiciously laid
out upon it would save it. The upper two or three feet should be removed,
stone by stone, and replaced with water-lime or cement. The cost of this
would be very trifling indeed; but what should also be done, and what
would not by any means involve a very serious expense, is the replacement
of the roof and floors. All Yorkshire, and indeed all the Archæological
Societies in England, from the Society of Antiquaries down to the most
recent local society, must feel an interest in this subject. Probably, if it were
brought before the owner of the castle in a proper manner, the necessary
repairs would be undertaken; if not, surely it would not be difficult to
provide the means by private subscription. In any case something should be
done at once, for the top of the keep is in that condition that every winter
tells severely upon it.
The plans and illustrations appended to this notice of the castle are from
actual survey by Mr. A. S. Ellis, and by him presented to the Yorkshire
Archæological Society, by whose permission they are here reprinted. They
will be found as far superior in accuracy as in completeness of detail to any
plans as yet published, and it may be said of them, and it is no slight praise,
that they are worthy of the important fortress they are intended to illustrate.
Page 560
CONWAY CASTLE.
THE castle and town of Conway form together the most complete and the
best preserved example of mediæval military architecture in Britain. The
works are all of one date and design, apparently by one engineer, at the
command of a monarch specially skilled in the art of war, and whose
intention here was to command a very formidable pass, and to put a curb
upon the boldest, most persistent, and most dangerous of the foes who
strove to resist the consolidation of his kingdom. At Conway are displayed
all the arts of defence as understood in the thirteenth century. The position
is naturally strong, the walls are of unusual thickness, each part of the
containing curtains is flanked by frequent towers, and the castle
predominates over the whole position, commanding and protecting the
town, and forming a citadel within which, as a last resource, a secure shelter
would be afforded.
Conway, the Aber-Conwy of the Welsh, stands on the left or western
bank of the river whence it derives its name, and which is commemorated
by Drayton and Spenser as rich in “precious orient pearls,” and here is
widening into an estuary. The southern front of the town is further protected
by the marshy bed of the Gyffin, which here joins the Conwy. Town and
castle cover a triangular mass of rock, of which the castle occupies the apex
projecting into the water. The curtain wall which encircles the town is
strengthened by twenty-eight towers, all but two or three of which are half-
cylinders in figure, and open from top to bottom in the rear. They rise one
stage above the curtain, which also is unusually high. Between two of them
there project upon corbels from the curtain at the battlement level a row of
twelve garderobes, showing that sanitary arrangements were by no means
neglected even in the thirteenth century. There are three gates, each flanked
by a pair of towers, defended by double doors, portcullis, grate, and
drawbridge. One of these, Porth Uchaf, opens landward; a second, Porth-
isaf, upon a quay along the water’s edge; and a third, Porth-y-felin, opens in
a shoulder of the wall upon the river below the castle, and gave a way to the
castle mill. There is, besides, a postern, also below the castle, and opening
THE castle and town of Conway form together the most complete and the
best preserved example of mediæval military architecture in Britain. The
works are all of one date and design, apparently by one engineer, at the
command of a monarch specially skilled in the art of war, and whose
intention here was to command a very formidable pass, and to put a curb
upon the boldest, most persistent, and most dangerous of the foes who
strove to resist the consolidation of his kingdom. At Conway are displayed
all the arts of defence as understood in the thirteenth century. The position
is naturally strong, the walls are of unusual thickness, each part of the
containing curtains is flanked by frequent towers, and the castle
predominates over the whole position, commanding and protecting the
town, and forming a citadel within which, as a last resource, a secure shelter
would be afforded.
Conway, the Aber-Conwy of the Welsh, stands on the left or western
bank of the river whence it derives its name, and which is commemorated
by Drayton and Spenser as rich in “precious orient pearls,” and here is
widening into an estuary. The southern front of the town is further protected
by the marshy bed of the Gyffin, which here joins the Conwy. Town and
castle cover a triangular mass of rock, of which the castle occupies the apex
projecting into the water. The curtain wall which encircles the town is
strengthened by twenty-eight towers, all but two or three of which are half-
cylinders in figure, and open from top to bottom in the rear. They rise one
stage above the curtain, which also is unusually high. Between two of them
there project upon corbels from the curtain at the battlement level a row of
twelve garderobes, showing that sanitary arrangements were by no means
neglected even in the thirteenth century. There are three gates, each flanked
by a pair of towers, defended by double doors, portcullis, grate, and
drawbridge. One of these, Porth Uchaf, opens landward; a second, Porth-
isaf, upon a quay along the water’s edge; and a third, Porth-y-felin, opens in
a shoulder of the wall upon the river below the castle, and gave a way to the
castle mill. There is, besides, a postern, also below the castle, and opening
Page 561
upon the sea-shore. Besides these defences a thick spur wall, defended
above by a double battlement, extends from the sea-front into the sea.
Formerly this was carried to low-water mark, and ended in a small round
tower, and thus effectually prevented any attempt to turn the flank of the
defences and attack the town from the sea-front. The town walls run up to,
but their rampart walk does not communicate with, the castle, which,
however, forms a part of the enceinte, and has one front with its main
entrance within and towards the town.
It is said that the rock occupied by the castle originally extended some
way eastward into the estuary, and was, therefore, a point of danger on that
side. To remove this, the rock was quarried away and a passage opened,
which is now the main channel of the river, and is spanned by the road and
railway-bridges of Telford and Stephenson.
It will be observed that Conway is not, like Gloucester and Chester,
posted on the English side of the river, as if intended for defence only; like
Chepstow, it is placed beyond the stream, and intended as a tête-du-pont to
cover the passage of troops across the water.
In plan, the castle is somewhat of a parallelogram, 100 yards east and
west, and with a breadth ranging from 35 yards to 40 yards. The northern
front is straight, the southern zigzag, following the irregularities of the rock.
Its general level is several feet above the nearer parts of the town. There are
eight towers, one at each of the four angles, and two, intermediate, upon
each of the long faces. There is no gatehouse, a very unusual omission in an
Edwardian castle, but one the cause of which is here very obvious. The
towers are cylindrical, about 40 feet in diameter, but somewhat flattened
and irregular on their interior faces, to enable the rampart walk or allure to
be carried on without traversing their interior chambers. To allow of this,
bold corbels, or sometimes a projecting shelf of masonry are applied to the
internal or rearward face of the tower at the proper level. By this means
there is secured an uninterrupted walk all round the place, communicating
with, but not traversing each tower.
The area is divided by a very thick cross curtain into two wards. The
outer or western is 60 yards long, and contains the great hall, the chapel, the
kitchen, and the water-tank; the eastern or inner ward, 40 yards long,
contains the smaller hall and the state apartments. At each end the castle is
above by a double battlement, extends from the sea-front into the sea.
Formerly this was carried to low-water mark, and ended in a small round
tower, and thus effectually prevented any attempt to turn the flank of the
defences and attack the town from the sea-front. The town walls run up to,
but their rampart walk does not communicate with, the castle, which,
however, forms a part of the enceinte, and has one front with its main
entrance within and towards the town.
It is said that the rock occupied by the castle originally extended some
way eastward into the estuary, and was, therefore, a point of danger on that
side. To remove this, the rock was quarried away and a passage opened,
which is now the main channel of the river, and is spanned by the road and
railway-bridges of Telford and Stephenson.
It will be observed that Conway is not, like Gloucester and Chester,
posted on the English side of the river, as if intended for defence only; like
Chepstow, it is placed beyond the stream, and intended as a tête-du-pont to
cover the passage of troops across the water.
In plan, the castle is somewhat of a parallelogram, 100 yards east and
west, and with a breadth ranging from 35 yards to 40 yards. The northern
front is straight, the southern zigzag, following the irregularities of the rock.
Its general level is several feet above the nearer parts of the town. There are
eight towers, one at each of the four angles, and two, intermediate, upon
each of the long faces. There is no gatehouse, a very unusual omission in an
Edwardian castle, but one the cause of which is here very obvious. The
towers are cylindrical, about 40 feet in diameter, but somewhat flattened
and irregular on their interior faces, to enable the rampart walk or allure to
be carried on without traversing their interior chambers. To allow of this,
bold corbels, or sometimes a projecting shelf of masonry are applied to the
internal or rearward face of the tower at the proper level. By this means
there is secured an uninterrupted walk all round the place, communicating
with, but not traversing each tower.
The area is divided by a very thick cross curtain into two wards. The
outer or western is 60 yards long, and contains the great hall, the chapel, the
kitchen, and the water-tank; the eastern or inner ward, 40 yards long,
contains the smaller hall and the state apartments. At each end the castle is
Page 562
covered by a small platform, at the level of the courts within, and supported
by retaining walls of considerable height, crowned by two light parapets,
each with three small half-round bastions flanking the curtains. Each of
these platforms protects and covers an entrance. The main entrance is at the
west end and from the town, and is a very curious piece of engineering
skill. A causeway of masonry, a viaduct, about 14 feet broad and parapeted
on each side, ascended with a very steep slope to a point 13 feet from the
gate of the barbican, where it stopped abruptly, and is still seen rising out of
the ditch, and about 20 feet high. The barbican is a narrow rectangular
space, contained between two walls, ending below in two small round
turrets which flank the outer gate, and above is another gate opening on the
end of the platform under the north-western main tower. A very ponderous
drawbridge, working on trunnions 14 inches in diameter, dropped from the
outer gate upon the pier already mentioned. The pier was 4 feet lower than
the cill of the bridge, so as to preserve the steepness of the approach. The
bridge was balanced by a short and heavy tailpiece or counterpoise which
worked in a quadrant-shaped pit below it. The gateway had a portcullis and
doors, and within it a staircase in the side wall led to the battlements over
the gate. The upper gateway was closed by a stout door only, but was
protected by the adjacent bastion of the platform, which has a loop towards
it. The entrance thus completed was broad enough to admit two horsemen
abreast, and the steepness gave the defenders a great advantage over the
enemy. The barbican of Conway may conveniently be illustrated by a
reference to that of Brampton Brian, which contains the same arrangements,
though on a larger scale. The woodcut shows the tower flanking the
drawbridge, the outer and inner gates, and between them the mural staircase
leading up to the ramparts.
by retaining walls of considerable height, crowned by two light parapets,
each with three small half-round bastions flanking the curtains. Each of
these platforms protects and covers an entrance. The main entrance is at the
west end and from the town, and is a very curious piece of engineering
skill. A causeway of masonry, a viaduct, about 14 feet broad and parapeted
on each side, ascended with a very steep slope to a point 13 feet from the
gate of the barbican, where it stopped abruptly, and is still seen rising out of
the ditch, and about 20 feet high. The barbican is a narrow rectangular
space, contained between two walls, ending below in two small round
turrets which flank the outer gate, and above is another gate opening on the
end of the platform under the north-western main tower. A very ponderous
drawbridge, working on trunnions 14 inches in diameter, dropped from the
outer gate upon the pier already mentioned. The pier was 4 feet lower than
the cill of the bridge, so as to preserve the steepness of the approach. The
bridge was balanced by a short and heavy tailpiece or counterpoise which
worked in a quadrant-shaped pit below it. The gateway had a portcullis and
doors, and within it a staircase in the side wall led to the battlements over
the gate. The upper gateway was closed by a stout door only, but was
protected by the adjacent bastion of the platform, which has a loop towards
it. The entrance thus completed was broad enough to admit two horsemen
abreast, and the steepness gave the defenders a great advantage over the
enemy. The barbican of Conway may conveniently be illustrated by a
reference to that of Brampton Brian, which contains the same arrangements,
though on a larger scale. The woodcut shows the tower flanking the
drawbridge, the outer and inner gates, and between them the mural staircase
leading up to the ramparts.
Page 563
The platform, to one end of which the barbican gives entrance, is about
35 yards long by 10 yards broad, and looked down upon a formidable ditch.
In its centre, between two of the main towers, was a short lofty curtain, and
in it the main gateway. Above, a row of bold corbels, projecting above 5
feet, included a line of machicolations, and gave great breadth to the
rampart of the curtain and great vantage to the defenders. The gateway is
acutely pointed, but quite plain, with flat sides. Within, the portal is vaulted
and portcullised, and has a broad space in front of the grate, possibly for
some kind of additional frame. Above the portal was a portcullis chamber,
also in the substance of the wall, and the place where the grate was
35 yards long by 10 yards broad, and looked down upon a formidable ditch.
In its centre, between two of the main towers, was a short lofty curtain, and
in it the main gateway. Above, a row of bold corbels, projecting above 5
feet, included a line of machicolations, and gave great breadth to the
rampart of the curtain and great vantage to the defenders. The gateway is
acutely pointed, but quite plain, with flat sides. Within, the portal is vaulted
and portcullised, and has a broad space in front of the grate, possibly for
some kind of additional frame. Above the portal was a portcullis chamber,
also in the substance of the wall, and the place where the grate was
Page 564
suspended is still seen. This chamber was reached by a steep narrow stair
from the rampart of the curtain,—a very rare arrangement. Entering the gate
on the right is a staircase up to the ramparts, looking like a makeshift, and
possibly not original. Beyond, also on the right, is the great hall. This,
though a spacious, could never have been a handsome chamber, for it is
built on a curve, or rather on an irregular polygon, to suit the southern
curtain which forms one side of it. It is about 105 feet long by 30 feet
broad, and its floor is at the court level. Below was a cellar of about half the
breadth of the hall, the rock here cropping up and blocking one side. To this
the entrance was by a pit or trap, in which was a doorway opening into a
passage by a second doorway in the cellar. This is lighted by loops in the
curtain, and at its east end is continued, through a partition, below the
chapel. The hall is said originally to have been of smaller size, and to have
been enlarged. If this be so, it must have been at the chapel end.
The hall is lighted by four small square-headed windows towards the
field, and two larger ones towards the court. The latter are pointed and were
of two lights, with quatrefoiled heads, and a quatrefoil in the head. The door
is in the same side near its east end. There are three fireplaces, all under
hoods, with flanking piers and brackets to receive the thrust of the flat arch.
The hall was crossed by seven large chamfered stone ribs of two members,
placed very irregularly. Two are standing, one having been lately rebuilt; the
other is at the upper end of the hall, and marks its division from the chapel.
A plain corbel below the springing of this rib shows the partition to have
been of timber, no doubt a carved brattice. The roof was open, and there
were timber principals between the stone ribs. It is difficult at first to
believe that this long irregular space, with its three unsymmetrical
fireplaces, could have been all one room, and at first it appears as though
the west end, to the second rib with one of the fireplaces and three
windows, might have been bratticed off as a withdrawing-room; but it is
evident this was not so. Such a room would have no separate door and no
garderobe. The dais of the hall was evidently at the other end, and the
withdrawing-room was the first floor of the dungeon tower, which stands at
the back of the great fireplace, and is entered by a small door in the jamb of
one of the hall windows. This and the floor above were readily accessible
from the dais.
from the rampart of the curtain,—a very rare arrangement. Entering the gate
on the right is a staircase up to the ramparts, looking like a makeshift, and
possibly not original. Beyond, also on the right, is the great hall. This,
though a spacious, could never have been a handsome chamber, for it is
built on a curve, or rather on an irregular polygon, to suit the southern
curtain which forms one side of it. It is about 105 feet long by 30 feet
broad, and its floor is at the court level. Below was a cellar of about half the
breadth of the hall, the rock here cropping up and blocking one side. To this
the entrance was by a pit or trap, in which was a doorway opening into a
passage by a second doorway in the cellar. This is lighted by loops in the
curtain, and at its east end is continued, through a partition, below the
chapel. The hall is said originally to have been of smaller size, and to have
been enlarged. If this be so, it must have been at the chapel end.
The hall is lighted by four small square-headed windows towards the
field, and two larger ones towards the court. The latter are pointed and were
of two lights, with quatrefoiled heads, and a quatrefoil in the head. The door
is in the same side near its east end. There are three fireplaces, all under
hoods, with flanking piers and brackets to receive the thrust of the flat arch.
The hall was crossed by seven large chamfered stone ribs of two members,
placed very irregularly. Two are standing, one having been lately rebuilt; the
other is at the upper end of the hall, and marks its division from the chapel.
A plain corbel below the springing of this rib shows the partition to have
been of timber, no doubt a carved brattice. The roof was open, and there
were timber principals between the stone ribs. It is difficult at first to
believe that this long irregular space, with its three unsymmetrical
fireplaces, could have been all one room, and at first it appears as though
the west end, to the second rib with one of the fireplaces and three
windows, might have been bratticed off as a withdrawing-room; but it is
evident this was not so. Such a room would have no separate door and no
garderobe. The dais of the hall was evidently at the other end, and the
withdrawing-room was the first floor of the dungeon tower, which stands at
the back of the great fireplace, and is entered by a small door in the jamb of
one of the hall windows. This and the floor above were readily accessible
from the dais.
Page 565
CONWAY CASTLE.
The chapel, bratticed off at the east end of the hall, had also an open roof,
with one stone rib. It has two windows to the south and one to the field, and
at its east end is a larger, three-light window, with a round head, and a
piscina in the south jamb. The tracery is broken away. The great kitchen has
been pulled down. It was built against the north curtain, opposite to the hall
door. There remains of it a water-trough occupying the seat of a window,
and lined with cement. Near the kitchen was a large tank quarried in the
rock, lined and cemented, for the storage of water; a culvert brought into it
water from the roofs, and leaden pipes have been traced from an exterior
spring at some distance. It has been opened to a considerable depth, 14 feet
or 15 feet, but was certainly not a well, though possibly one was intended.
The cross wall separating the two wards is of the same height and
thickness as the exterior curtains. It is pierced near its centre by a shoulder-
headed doorway, closed with a door only, and opening into the inner ward.
This door is covered by a sort of lodge on its western face, with a loop
towards the main gate.
The inner ward, nearly square in plan, has the state rooms on its south
and east sides. These have basement chambers, well lighted and with
fireplaces on the ground floor, level with the court; and above these, on the
first floor, are the state apartments, with open roofs. First of these, on the
The chapel, bratticed off at the east end of the hall, had also an open roof,
with one stone rib. It has two windows to the south and one to the field, and
at its east end is a larger, three-light window, with a round head, and a
piscina in the south jamb. The tracery is broken away. The great kitchen has
been pulled down. It was built against the north curtain, opposite to the hall
door. There remains of it a water-trough occupying the seat of a window,
and lined with cement. Near the kitchen was a large tank quarried in the
rock, lined and cemented, for the storage of water; a culvert brought into it
water from the roofs, and leaden pipes have been traced from an exterior
spring at some distance. It has been opened to a considerable depth, 14 feet
or 15 feet, but was certainly not a well, though possibly one was intended.
The cross wall separating the two wards is of the same height and
thickness as the exterior curtains. It is pierced near its centre by a shoulder-
headed doorway, closed with a door only, and opening into the inner ward.
This door is covered by a sort of lodge on its western face, with a loop
towards the main gate.
The inner ward, nearly square in plan, has the state rooms on its south
and east sides. These have basement chambers, well lighted and with
fireplaces on the ground floor, level with the court; and above these, on the
first floor, are the state apartments, with open roofs. First of these, on the
Page 566
right is the smaller hall, 30 feet by 28 feet. It has a door at its west or lower
end communicating with a sort of lobby, and so with a main tower, which
probably contained the kitchen. At the other or east end is also a door,
opening into the withdrawing-room. Towards the court is a central fireplace,
between two handsome windows. These were flat-topped, of two lights, and
the upper half was filled with Decorated tracery, now broken away. In the
remaining side, towards the field, is at one end a small window, and at the
other a door opening into a mural chamber, a garderobe. The roof was
strengthened by two stone ribs, of which one is perfect, and is not quite so
plain as those of the great hall. The withdrawing-room has a fireplace on the
north side, and was crossed by two ribs, both broken down. This room has a
mural passage in its south wall communicating with a garderobe and large
vaulted chamber, also in the wall, and so opening into the ground floor of
the south-eastern or king’s tower. Another door opens into the queen’s
chamber. This is a large and handsome room, also on the first floor,
occupying the east side of the court. Its roof contained two ribs, both
removed. At its north end are passages into garderobes, mural chambers,
and an oratory, all contained in the north-eastern, or queen’s tower. Eleanor,
the queen of Edward I., is said to have made use of this chamber.
From the queen’s chamber, at the same level, a wooden passage, a sort of
balcony, affixed to the north wall of the lesser hall, led to the kitchen lobby
and the kitchen. Lines of corbels, and doors at either end, show the position
and length of this gallery.
Below the queen’s apartment a passage leads to a doorway in the curtain,
which opens upon the east platform, and was the only postern in the castle.
It is shoulder-headed and closed with a door only. But, as at the main gate,
the curtain is furnished with a line of bold corbels, forming machicolations
for the defence of the wall and gateway. Passages open right and left in the
sides of the doorway, and carry staircases in the wall up to the first floor of
the king’s and queen’s towers.
The platform upon which this postern opens is called the queen’s bower.
It is larger than the western platform. Like it, it has three half-round turrets
and a parapet, and in its north end is a doorway from which a steep and
narrow and parapeted staircase formerly descended to the water’s edge.
This staircase was removed when the suspension-bridge was built.
end communicating with a sort of lobby, and so with a main tower, which
probably contained the kitchen. At the other or east end is also a door,
opening into the withdrawing-room. Towards the court is a central fireplace,
between two handsome windows. These were flat-topped, of two lights, and
the upper half was filled with Decorated tracery, now broken away. In the
remaining side, towards the field, is at one end a small window, and at the
other a door opening into a mural chamber, a garderobe. The roof was
strengthened by two stone ribs, of which one is perfect, and is not quite so
plain as those of the great hall. The withdrawing-room has a fireplace on the
north side, and was crossed by two ribs, both broken down. This room has a
mural passage in its south wall communicating with a garderobe and large
vaulted chamber, also in the wall, and so opening into the ground floor of
the south-eastern or king’s tower. Another door opens into the queen’s
chamber. This is a large and handsome room, also on the first floor,
occupying the east side of the court. Its roof contained two ribs, both
removed. At its north end are passages into garderobes, mural chambers,
and an oratory, all contained in the north-eastern, or queen’s tower. Eleanor,
the queen of Edward I., is said to have made use of this chamber.
From the queen’s chamber, at the same level, a wooden passage, a sort of
balcony, affixed to the north wall of the lesser hall, led to the kitchen lobby
and the kitchen. Lines of corbels, and doors at either end, show the position
and length of this gallery.
Below the queen’s apartment a passage leads to a doorway in the curtain,
which opens upon the east platform, and was the only postern in the castle.
It is shoulder-headed and closed with a door only. But, as at the main gate,
the curtain is furnished with a line of bold corbels, forming machicolations
for the defence of the wall and gateway. Passages open right and left in the
sides of the doorway, and carry staircases in the wall up to the first floor of
the king’s and queen’s towers.
The platform upon which this postern opens is called the queen’s bower.
It is larger than the western platform. Like it, it has three half-round turrets
and a parapet, and in its north end is a doorway from which a steep and
narrow and parapeted staircase formerly descended to the water’s edge.
This staircase was removed when the suspension-bridge was built.
Page 567
The towers now remain to be described. They are all of one type, and
even their details are closely alike. Each has a basement, the floor of which
is considerably above the exterior ground level, though below that of the
court within. These chambers can only have been reached by ladders from
the floors above. They are ventilated by small air-holes high up, but the
probability is that they were put to no regular use, though they may have
served for prisons.
The first floor of each tower is entered from the court, and from that level
a well-staircase ascends to the second or upper floor, and so on to the roof.
Here, in the four western towers, it stops. In the four eastern towers it is
carried on, forming a small round turret, 14 or 15 feet high above the roof.
None of these floors are vaulted, all have fireplaces in the first and second
floors, and all open at the second floor level upon the rampart walk. All also
are well provided with garderobes.
The battlements of the towers remain uninjured. The parapets are about
10 feet high, and divided into twelve merlons and as many flat-sided plain
embrasures. Each merlon is pierced by a loop, and at the base of each, at the
allure level, is a hole ending in a gurgoyle, for the discharge of the rain
water.
Two of the towers are furnished with ovens, built in the old fashion, with
a flue outside and above the oven door. In the queen’s tower the second
floor has an oratory in the east wall. This is a deep and bold recess, divided
into nine bays or compartments, three on each side, and three forming an
apex. In each bay is a sedile, and above, in the apse, are three lancet
windows. The slender shafts between the bays are vaulting shafts, and
expand above in fan tracery of a Decorated character. On each side of the
oratory is a small mural chamber, one a vestry; the other, it may be, a
confessional; both have small loops into the oratory. Possibly the whole
circular chamber was used as a chapel, to which the oratory was the choir.
even their details are closely alike. Each has a basement, the floor of which
is considerably above the exterior ground level, though below that of the
court within. These chambers can only have been reached by ladders from
the floors above. They are ventilated by small air-holes high up, but the
probability is that they were put to no regular use, though they may have
served for prisons.
The first floor of each tower is entered from the court, and from that level
a well-staircase ascends to the second or upper floor, and so on to the roof.
Here, in the four western towers, it stops. In the four eastern towers it is
carried on, forming a small round turret, 14 or 15 feet high above the roof.
None of these floors are vaulted, all have fireplaces in the first and second
floors, and all open at the second floor level upon the rampart walk. All also
are well provided with garderobes.
The battlements of the towers remain uninjured. The parapets are about
10 feet high, and divided into twelve merlons and as many flat-sided plain
embrasures. Each merlon is pierced by a loop, and at the base of each, at the
allure level, is a hole ending in a gurgoyle, for the discharge of the rain
water.
Two of the towers are furnished with ovens, built in the old fashion, with
a flue outside and above the oven door. In the queen’s tower the second
floor has an oratory in the east wall. This is a deep and bold recess, divided
into nine bays or compartments, three on each side, and three forming an
apex. In each bay is a sedile, and above, in the apse, are three lancet
windows. The slender shafts between the bays are vaulting shafts, and
expand above in fan tracery of a Decorated character. On each side of the
oratory is a small mural chamber, one a vestry; the other, it may be, a
confessional; both have small loops into the oratory. Possibly the whole
circular chamber was used as a chapel, to which the oratory was the choir.
Page 568
Conway
Conway, though as strong, is a far less elegant structure than Caernarvon.
The masonry, though excellent, is rough uncoursed rubble, and ashlar is
very sparingly used. The battlements especially, as at Harlech and
Caerphilly, are very bare. They are ill-coped and ill-finished, as though they
were intended to be concealed behind a brattice; but, as there are no corbels
or places for the struts, this cannot have been intended.
The putlog holes show that round instead of square poles were used in
the construction; and here, as at Coucy and in parts of Harlech, they are so
Conway, though as strong, is a far less elegant structure than Caernarvon.
The masonry, though excellent, is rough uncoursed rubble, and ashlar is
very sparingly used. The battlements especially, as at Harlech and
Caerphilly, are very bare. They are ill-coped and ill-finished, as though they
were intended to be concealed behind a brattice; but, as there are no corbels
or places for the struts, this cannot have been intended.
The putlog holes show that round instead of square poles were used in
the construction; and here, as at Coucy and in parts of Harlech, they are so
Page 569
placed as to show that the scaffolding was laid as an inclined plane, instead
of horizontally, and with ladders. This is also the case with the walls and
towers of the town.
Conway Castle is retained by the Crown, but has long been let on lease.
Lady Erskine, of Cambo, the last lessee, has lately waived her tenure, and
the ruins are now held by the Corporation, and seem sufficiently well cared
for. Mr. Jones, who has had charge of the place for nearly half a century, is a
very careful and intelligent guardian, and well acquainted with the details
and history of the castle.
Conway was begun in 1285. Soon after its completion, Edward I. and
Queen Eleanor spent a Christmas here in great state, when, no doubt, the
state apartments were occupied. The town was stormed in 1646 by the
Parliamentary general, Mytton, who also secured the castle.
Charles II. granted it to Edward, the first Earl of Conway, to grace and
give some foundation for his title; but the earl, it is said to annoy the
neighbouring gentry, dismantled the castle, and took away the lead, timber
and ironwork, broke down the well-stairs, and in other ways injured the
structure.
The appended bird’s-eye view of the town is taken from the highest and
most western point, just above Porth-Uchaf, and in full view of Porth-y-
felin, below which is the bed of the Gyffin. The position of the castle, on its
rocky promontory, resting upon the sea, is well shown.
The other view is confined to the castle as seen from the south or the
valley of the Gyffin. The four towers on the right mark the angles of the
inner ward, the two on the extreme right are the king’s tower in front, and
behind it the queen’s tower. The central and front tower is the dungeon
tower, attached to the great hall. On the left are seen the two lines of the
town wall, abutting upon the castle, and between them the western platform
with its bastions, and in the rear the main gate with the line of
machicolations above it. One of the seaward towers shows how the rampart
walk is carried round it upon a corbelled or bracketed projection.
of horizontally, and with ladders. This is also the case with the walls and
towers of the town.
Conway Castle is retained by the Crown, but has long been let on lease.
Lady Erskine, of Cambo, the last lessee, has lately waived her tenure, and
the ruins are now held by the Corporation, and seem sufficiently well cared
for. Mr. Jones, who has had charge of the place for nearly half a century, is a
very careful and intelligent guardian, and well acquainted with the details
and history of the castle.
Conway was begun in 1285. Soon after its completion, Edward I. and
Queen Eleanor spent a Christmas here in great state, when, no doubt, the
state apartments were occupied. The town was stormed in 1646 by the
Parliamentary general, Mytton, who also secured the castle.
Charles II. granted it to Edward, the first Earl of Conway, to grace and
give some foundation for his title; but the earl, it is said to annoy the
neighbouring gentry, dismantled the castle, and took away the lead, timber
and ironwork, broke down the well-stairs, and in other ways injured the
structure.
The appended bird’s-eye view of the town is taken from the highest and
most western point, just above Porth-Uchaf, and in full view of Porth-y-
felin, below which is the bed of the Gyffin. The position of the castle, on its
rocky promontory, resting upon the sea, is well shown.
The other view is confined to the castle as seen from the south or the
valley of the Gyffin. The four towers on the right mark the angles of the
inner ward, the two on the extreme right are the king’s tower in front, and
behind it the queen’s tower. The central and front tower is the dungeon
tower, attached to the great hall. On the left are seen the two lines of the
town wall, abutting upon the castle, and between them the western platform
with its bastions, and in the rear the main gate with the line of
machicolations above it. One of the seaward towers shows how the rampart
walk is carried round it upon a corbelled or bracketed projection.
Page 570
CORFE CASTLE, DORSET.
CORFE Castle is one of the most noteworthy remains in Britain.
The natural position is very striking, and not less so the manner in which
it has been fortified by art. It is of high antiquity, associated from the times
of the West Saxon princes to those of the Commonwealth with marked
historical events; was the palace and the prison of kings and great nobles,
and has been commanded by a long succession of powerful Castellans.
The castle crowns an isolated hill, a part of the steep chalk ridge which,
under the general name of the Purbeck Hills, with the subordinate
elevations of Knowl Hill, and Ninebarrow and Ballard Downs, stretches
twelve miles across the peninsula of Purbeck, from Warbarrow Bay and
Flowerbarrow Camp on the west, to the foreland between the bays of
Studland and Swanage on the east.
To the south, or seaward, is the bold coast line marked by the headlands
of Peverel, Durlston, and St. Adhelm’s. Landward, or to the north, is the
depression occupied by Poole Harbour and its tributaries the Frome and
Trent, or Piddle—waters whose fords are commanded by the grand
earthworks at Wareham, which, placed astride upon the ridge terminating in
the junction of the two, form the frontier and key of Purbeck, as does Corfe,
its citadel.
The castle ridge ranges with the Isle of Wight, and with it forms the
southern margin of the well-known chalk basin, of which Dorchester and
Beaminster mark the western limit, and Beer Regis, Salisbury, and
Winchester that on the north.
The chalk at Corfe dips north at about 70°. It is hard, moderately durable,
and thickly charged with flints, which are extensively used in the interior of
the castle walls. Below the chalk, and underlying the great gateway of the
castle, is a narrow belt of the upper greensand, below which, in succession,
are the three Purbeck beds, the Portland stone, and the Kimmeridge clay.
The stone beds, here of a most durable character, are used for the ashlar and
face-work of the castle.
CORFE Castle is one of the most noteworthy remains in Britain.
The natural position is very striking, and not less so the manner in which
it has been fortified by art. It is of high antiquity, associated from the times
of the West Saxon princes to those of the Commonwealth with marked
historical events; was the palace and the prison of kings and great nobles,
and has been commanded by a long succession of powerful Castellans.
The castle crowns an isolated hill, a part of the steep chalk ridge which,
under the general name of the Purbeck Hills, with the subordinate
elevations of Knowl Hill, and Ninebarrow and Ballard Downs, stretches
twelve miles across the peninsula of Purbeck, from Warbarrow Bay and
Flowerbarrow Camp on the west, to the foreland between the bays of
Studland and Swanage on the east.
To the south, or seaward, is the bold coast line marked by the headlands
of Peverel, Durlston, and St. Adhelm’s. Landward, or to the north, is the
depression occupied by Poole Harbour and its tributaries the Frome and
Trent, or Piddle—waters whose fords are commanded by the grand
earthworks at Wareham, which, placed astride upon the ridge terminating in
the junction of the two, form the frontier and key of Purbeck, as does Corfe,
its citadel.
The castle ridge ranges with the Isle of Wight, and with it forms the
southern margin of the well-known chalk basin, of which Dorchester and
Beaminster mark the western limit, and Beer Regis, Salisbury, and
Winchester that on the north.
The chalk at Corfe dips north at about 70°. It is hard, moderately durable,
and thickly charged with flints, which are extensively used in the interior of
the castle walls. Below the chalk, and underlying the great gateway of the
castle, is a narrow belt of the upper greensand, below which, in succession,
are the three Purbeck beds, the Portland stone, and the Kimmeridge clay.
The stone beds, here of a most durable character, are used for the ashlar and
face-work of the castle.
Page 571
To the north of and above the chalk are narrow and irregular beds of
plastic and London clay, succeeded by a broad expanse of the lower
Bagshot sands and clay, out of which the harbour of Poole has been eroded,
and the latter of which is worked for the purpose of commerce.
A considerable fault runs along the chalk ridge close north of the castle
hill, one of a parallel series traversing that part of the southern coast.
The physical aspect of Purbeck betrays, to a practised eye, its geological
composition, and the wild rough moor and marshland about the harbour
contrast strongly with the steep but rounded outline and green surface of the
chalk, upon a summit of which stands the old Norman keep, predominating
far and wide over the landscape.
The castle is naturally strong. It occupies the slope and summit of a hill,
the base of which covers about 15 acres, and which is placed in a gap or
cutting in the ridge already described, of which position its name is said to
be descriptive.
South of the ridge, and close behind and covered by the castle, is the
town of Corfe, from which the castle hill rises steeply, to descend almost
vertically upon its east, west, and north sides. The northern, or highest
point, is occupied by the keep and principal buildings of the castle.
The stream called the Wicken, and its tributary, the Byle brook, each
turning a mill, flow from the south-west and south-east round either side of
the town, and, girdling the base of the castle hill, unite just below St.
Edward’s bridge to form the Corfe river, which flows into Poole harbour.
Between the town and the castle, where the two streams approach within a
furlong of each other, a deep and bold though dry trench has been cut across
the root of the peninsula, and thus forms the great outer ditch which divides
the castle from the town.
The castle, in its present form, may be called concentric, but it has been
constructed, if not designed, at three principal periods, having been
originally a Saxon palace, then a Norman, and afterwards an Edwardian
fortress.
It is composed of a keep standing in an inner ward, of a middle, and of an
outer ward. The survey by Ralph Treswell, in 1586, subdivides the inner
plastic and London clay, succeeded by a broad expanse of the lower
Bagshot sands and clay, out of which the harbour of Poole has been eroded,
and the latter of which is worked for the purpose of commerce.
A considerable fault runs along the chalk ridge close north of the castle
hill, one of a parallel series traversing that part of the southern coast.
The physical aspect of Purbeck betrays, to a practised eye, its geological
composition, and the wild rough moor and marshland about the harbour
contrast strongly with the steep but rounded outline and green surface of the
chalk, upon a summit of which stands the old Norman keep, predominating
far and wide over the landscape.
The castle is naturally strong. It occupies the slope and summit of a hill,
the base of which covers about 15 acres, and which is placed in a gap or
cutting in the ridge already described, of which position its name is said to
be descriptive.
South of the ridge, and close behind and covered by the castle, is the
town of Corfe, from which the castle hill rises steeply, to descend almost
vertically upon its east, west, and north sides. The northern, or highest
point, is occupied by the keep and principal buildings of the castle.
The stream called the Wicken, and its tributary, the Byle brook, each
turning a mill, flow from the south-west and south-east round either side of
the town, and, girdling the base of the castle hill, unite just below St.
Edward’s bridge to form the Corfe river, which flows into Poole harbour.
Between the town and the castle, where the two streams approach within a
furlong of each other, a deep and bold though dry trench has been cut across
the root of the peninsula, and thus forms the great outer ditch which divides
the castle from the town.
The castle, in its present form, may be called concentric, but it has been
constructed, if not designed, at three principal periods, having been
originally a Saxon palace, then a Norman, and afterwards an Edwardian
fortress.
It is composed of a keep standing in an inner ward, of a middle, and of an
outer ward. The survey by Ralph Treswell, in 1586, subdivides the inner
Page 572
ward into two, and shows a wall across the outer ward, which has
disappeared, and was probably modern.
In plan it is an irregular triangle, the walls following the crest of the hill.
The great gateway caps the southern or lowest angle; the Buttavant Tower,
the western; and the inner ward forms the obtuse, highest, or eastern angle.
The south-west, the longest front, is concave. It extends 270 yards from the
gatehouse to the Buttavant, and its lower two-thirds is the part of the
enceinte most jealously defended, and upon the overthrow of which the
destroyers have expended their greatest energies. The north, or upper front,
too high for attack, measures about 200 yards, and the eastern front about
the same.
The area within the walls is about 3¼ acres; but, from the excessive
steepness of the ground, much of the outer and part of the middle ward
could never have been turned to account. The lower part of the outer, the
western portion of the middle, and the eastern part of the inner ward, are the
only flat spaces.
The outer, by much the largest ward, is contained within the great
gatehouse, the east curtain strengthened by the Horseshoe and Plukenet
Towers, and the west curtain, upon which are four mural towers. The steep,
upper part of the ward rises to the wall of the inner, and the wall and
gatehouse of the middle ward. It is traversed by a fosse, attributed to King
John, which extends from the Plukenet Tower to the front of the middle
gatehouse, and is thence continued outside the works down the hill-side.
A permanent stone bridge, about 100 feet long by 20 feet broad, crosses
the moat, and leads up to the great gateway. It is of four arches, springing
from three solid piers, and the roadway, which has now no parapets, is
about 30 feet above the bottom of the moat. The masonry ceases about 18
feet from the portal, and the interval, now filled with earth, was probably
spanned by a drawbridge. The arches are about one-third of a circle, and the
voussoirs in two rings, without bond, 8 inches thick, and from 1 foot to 3
feet in length. The piers may be of Perpendicular date, but the arches are
probably due to Sir Christopher Hatton.
The outer gatehouse is composed of two drums, flanking the portal, and
produced rearward into a rectangular building, now partially destroyed. The
disappeared, and was probably modern.
In plan it is an irregular triangle, the walls following the crest of the hill.
The great gateway caps the southern or lowest angle; the Buttavant Tower,
the western; and the inner ward forms the obtuse, highest, or eastern angle.
The south-west, the longest front, is concave. It extends 270 yards from the
gatehouse to the Buttavant, and its lower two-thirds is the part of the
enceinte most jealously defended, and upon the overthrow of which the
destroyers have expended their greatest energies. The north, or upper front,
too high for attack, measures about 200 yards, and the eastern front about
the same.
The area within the walls is about 3¼ acres; but, from the excessive
steepness of the ground, much of the outer and part of the middle ward
could never have been turned to account. The lower part of the outer, the
western portion of the middle, and the eastern part of the inner ward, are the
only flat spaces.
The outer, by much the largest ward, is contained within the great
gatehouse, the east curtain strengthened by the Horseshoe and Plukenet
Towers, and the west curtain, upon which are four mural towers. The steep,
upper part of the ward rises to the wall of the inner, and the wall and
gatehouse of the middle ward. It is traversed by a fosse, attributed to King
John, which extends from the Plukenet Tower to the front of the middle
gatehouse, and is thence continued outside the works down the hill-side.
A permanent stone bridge, about 100 feet long by 20 feet broad, crosses
the moat, and leads up to the great gateway. It is of four arches, springing
from three solid piers, and the roadway, which has now no parapets, is
about 30 feet above the bottom of the moat. The masonry ceases about 18
feet from the portal, and the interval, now filled with earth, was probably
spanned by a drawbridge. The arches are about one-third of a circle, and the
voussoirs in two rings, without bond, 8 inches thick, and from 1 foot to 3
feet in length. The piers may be of Perpendicular date, but the arches are
probably due to Sir Christopher Hatton.
The outer gatehouse is composed of two drums, flanking the portal, and
produced rearward into a rectangular building, now partially destroyed. The
Page 573
drums, about 20 feet diameter, are solid to the base of the upper story, now
removed, but of which the lower ends of the loops remain.
The portal, 13 feet wide, enters a vaulted passage, now 26 feet, and
which may have been 36 feet long. First is the portal, now without jambs,
and beneath a segmental arch, 4 feet 11 inches broad. Then (as shown in the
accompanying section, Fig. I.) a chase, or single machicolation, 6 inches
broad. Then a second arch, 3 feet 9 inches broad. Then a chase, 5 inches
broad, and a circular groove of 9 inches diameter and 7 inches opening, at
which the passage narrows by 20 inches, being an opening of 11 feet 4
inches. Then follows an arch of 1 foot 6 inches breadth, and a chase of 16
inches.
Next comes the gateway proper, the jambs of which, 2 feet 4 inches in
thickness, project inwards with a double chamfer, so as to reduce the actual
entrance to 8 feet.
The door, the space for which shows it to have been of wood, and not
above 4 inches thick, was of two valves, the arch behind being flat
segmental, with a high springing and 4 feet of breadth, to accommodate
them when open. Two stones on each side, which probably carried the iron
loops for the hinges, have been torn out. Between them, a central hole, 9
inches by 12 inches, carried the wooden bar. Next is an arch, of which about
5 feet only remain, but which probably completed the passage to its opening
into the ward, and perhaps carried a portcullis groove.
Half the doorways into the lodges remain. The lodges themselves were
barrel-vaulted, and the vault in the west lodge springs from the ordinary
Norman string, composed of a flat abacus and chamfer, as though an older
gatehouse had been cased. Instances of this string, indeed, have been
pointed out by Mr. Bond in other and certainly later parts of the castle, and
of course a plain string of this character may be of any age.
The several arches composing the entrance passage show, at their
springings, about a dozen small holes, evidently to carry the centring. Their
small size indicates this to have been of iron. These holes are usual.
removed, but of which the lower ends of the loops remain.
The portal, 13 feet wide, enters a vaulted passage, now 26 feet, and
which may have been 36 feet long. First is the portal, now without jambs,
and beneath a segmental arch, 4 feet 11 inches broad. Then (as shown in the
accompanying section, Fig. I.) a chase, or single machicolation, 6 inches
broad. Then a second arch, 3 feet 9 inches broad. Then a chase, 5 inches
broad, and a circular groove of 9 inches diameter and 7 inches opening, at
which the passage narrows by 20 inches, being an opening of 11 feet 4
inches. Then follows an arch of 1 foot 6 inches breadth, and a chase of 16
inches.
Next comes the gateway proper, the jambs of which, 2 feet 4 inches in
thickness, project inwards with a double chamfer, so as to reduce the actual
entrance to 8 feet.
The door, the space for which shows it to have been of wood, and not
above 4 inches thick, was of two valves, the arch behind being flat
segmental, with a high springing and 4 feet of breadth, to accommodate
them when open. Two stones on each side, which probably carried the iron
loops for the hinges, have been torn out. Between them, a central hole, 9
inches by 12 inches, carried the wooden bar. Next is an arch, of which about
5 feet only remain, but which probably completed the passage to its opening
into the ward, and perhaps carried a portcullis groove.
Half the doorways into the lodges remain. The lodges themselves were
barrel-vaulted, and the vault in the west lodge springs from the ordinary
Norman string, composed of a flat abacus and chamfer, as though an older
gatehouse had been cased. Instances of this string, indeed, have been
pointed out by Mr. Bond in other and certainly later parts of the castle, and
of course a plain string of this character may be of any age.
The several arches composing the entrance passage show, at their
springings, about a dozen small holes, evidently to carry the centring. Their
small size indicates this to have been of iron. These holes are usual.
Page 574
CORFE CASTLE.
Fig. I.—Great Gatehouse: Entrance passage,—1, 2, 3, Chases.
Fig. II.—Middle Gatehouse. Entrance passage,—4, Pivot
hole; 5, Chase in vault; 6, Portcullis groove and chase; 7,
Machicolation with five apertures; 8, Bar-hole.
In the door-jambs are cut six mortises, three on a side, the lowest 6 inches
from the ground. They are each 8½ inches long, 2 inches broad, and 3½
inches deep. They must have been intended to hold boards, though the
shallow depth would scarce allow of their insertion. These would, indeed,
have been better suited to keep pigs in than warriors out, and perhaps were
Fig. I.—Great Gatehouse: Entrance passage,—1, 2, 3, Chases.
Fig. II.—Middle Gatehouse. Entrance passage,—4, Pivot
hole; 5, Chase in vault; 6, Portcullis groove and chase; 7,
Machicolation with five apertures; 8, Bar-hole.
In the door-jambs are cut six mortises, three on a side, the lowest 6 inches
from the ground. They are each 8½ inches long, 2 inches broad, and 3½
inches deep. They must have been intended to hold boards, though the
shallow depth would scarce allow of their insertion. These would, indeed,
have been better suited to keep pigs in than warriors out, and perhaps were
Page 575
so used in times of peace. They can scarcely be original, but are probably
earlier than the dismantling. The entrance passage falls gently from the
interior, so as to give an advantage to the defenders in a contest.
It is difficult to understand the defences of this gateway in the absence of
the upper story, from which most of them were worked. There is at present
no trace of the drawbridge in the portal, unless, indeed, the pivot-holes on
which it turned be concealed by the soil. If the cylindrical pipe, with the
opening or slot in its side, contained a sash-weight, of what was it the
counterpoise? Scarcely of the drawbridge, for which, even if of lead, unless
of inconvenient length, the weight would be too light; and portcullis groove
there is none. The 5-inch chase exactly in front of the pipe may have
contained a portcullis, or a frame; but, if so, the absence of lateral grooves
must have left it very unsteady, except when down upon and fixed in the
cill. No doubt, a portcullis with crooked sides or ears might have worked in
this tube, but that is scarcely probable. The other chases were, no doubt,
intended for the passage of projectiles. They are, however, mere slits across
the vault, unaccompanied by lateral grooves as when used for a portcullis,
and they do not appear to have been divided by cross septa, as in regular
machicolations; but this vault has been riven by an explosion, and restored
in part in recent times, so that it is difficult to pronounce upon its details.
From each side of the gatehouse springs a short curtain. That to the east,
from 10 feet to 12 feet thick, and about 20 feet high, now mostly destroyed,
terminates in the Horseshoe Tower, a mere shell, about 20 feet diameter and
20 feet high, open at the ground floor and across the gorge, and intended to
be floored and bratticed with timber, as is not infrequent with mural towers,
to prevent their being used against the garrison. It is pierced by three loops
on the ground floor. These are mere vertical slits, 7 feet long and 1½ inch
broad, splayed deeply, and opening from recesses in the wall. The tower
caps the south-east angle of the work, and the loops are directed upon the
field, and along the two curtains. The removal of the talus outside shows
this tower to stand upon a deep and solid foundation. At the junction of the
gatehouse curtain with this tower, the former contains a mural chamber, 6
feet broad, and roofed with five tiers of overhanging slabs.
The east curtain is, for the most part, a mere wall, 8 feet to 10 feet thick,
and 10 feet to 15 feet high, exclusive of battlements, and more or less
ruined. Loops are to be seen on its exterior, directed downwards so as to
earlier than the dismantling. The entrance passage falls gently from the
interior, so as to give an advantage to the defenders in a contest.
It is difficult to understand the defences of this gateway in the absence of
the upper story, from which most of them were worked. There is at present
no trace of the drawbridge in the portal, unless, indeed, the pivot-holes on
which it turned be concealed by the soil. If the cylindrical pipe, with the
opening or slot in its side, contained a sash-weight, of what was it the
counterpoise? Scarcely of the drawbridge, for which, even if of lead, unless
of inconvenient length, the weight would be too light; and portcullis groove
there is none. The 5-inch chase exactly in front of the pipe may have
contained a portcullis, or a frame; but, if so, the absence of lateral grooves
must have left it very unsteady, except when down upon and fixed in the
cill. No doubt, a portcullis with crooked sides or ears might have worked in
this tube, but that is scarcely probable. The other chases were, no doubt,
intended for the passage of projectiles. They are, however, mere slits across
the vault, unaccompanied by lateral grooves as when used for a portcullis,
and they do not appear to have been divided by cross septa, as in regular
machicolations; but this vault has been riven by an explosion, and restored
in part in recent times, so that it is difficult to pronounce upon its details.
From each side of the gatehouse springs a short curtain. That to the east,
from 10 feet to 12 feet thick, and about 20 feet high, now mostly destroyed,
terminates in the Horseshoe Tower, a mere shell, about 20 feet diameter and
20 feet high, open at the ground floor and across the gorge, and intended to
be floored and bratticed with timber, as is not infrequent with mural towers,
to prevent their being used against the garrison. It is pierced by three loops
on the ground floor. These are mere vertical slits, 7 feet long and 1½ inch
broad, splayed deeply, and opening from recesses in the wall. The tower
caps the south-east angle of the work, and the loops are directed upon the
field, and along the two curtains. The removal of the talus outside shows
this tower to stand upon a deep and solid foundation. At the junction of the
gatehouse curtain with this tower, the former contains a mural chamber, 6
feet broad, and roofed with five tiers of overhanging slabs.
The east curtain is, for the most part, a mere wall, 8 feet to 10 feet thick,
and 10 feet to 15 feet high, exclusive of battlements, and more or less
ruined. Loops are to be seen on its exterior, directed downwards so as to
Page 576
rake the scarp. Near the Horseshoe Tower was formerly another mural
chamber, called a stable, but more probably a garderobe, and beyond this is
a large arch, now walled up, which may have been a postern, and
commanded by the Plukenet Tower.
This is a mere half-round mural tower, solid to the rampart height, and of
no projection within.
Above the rampart it is hollowed into a chamber open behind, with three
loops, each 5 feet 6 inches long and 2 inches in the opening. In each of the
recesses, on the right, is a small cupboard for the grease or tools needed by
the archer. The tower and rampart were ascended by a well-stair on the
north or upper side. The arrangements for allowing the archer to shoot
downwards so as to rake the steep scarp are well seen here. This tower is
named from a bold and well-preserved shield upon its outer face, charged
with a bend fusilly, or five fusils conjoined in bend, and held up by two
hands which emerge from holes in the stone. This is one of the well-known
coats attributed to the Mareschals, Earls of Pembroke; but, as this family
was extinct half a century before the date of this tower, and does not appear
ever to have been connected with the castle, Mr. Bond has shown it to be
more probable that the shield is intended to commemorate Alan Plukenet,
constable of the castle in the 54th of Henry III., and a baron in the reign of
Edward, his son, and whose arms were either a bend engrailed, or fusilly,
represented anciently much in the same way, upon a field ermine, which fur
(as Mr. Bond suggests) may have been regarded as a tincture, the lines for
expressing which were not then employed, and the spots omitted by the
carver.
The curtain from this tower to the Gloriette angle of the inner ward is
constructed of much larger stones than those employed lower down. They
are as large as many of those in the Norman ashlar, but of ruder
workmanship.
Returning to the gatehouse and following the west front, this commences
with a short curtain, still standing, and connected with the first mural tower,
a drum of rather above half-round projection, capping an angle. It is solid to
the rampart level, and above this open at the gorge. Its single chamber has
three loops, cruciform, and shorter, wider, and of coarser construction than
those of the Horseshoe Tower, though still of excellent ashlar. This tower
chamber, called a stable, but more probably a garderobe, and beyond this is
a large arch, now walled up, which may have been a postern, and
commanded by the Plukenet Tower.
This is a mere half-round mural tower, solid to the rampart height, and of
no projection within.
Above the rampart it is hollowed into a chamber open behind, with three
loops, each 5 feet 6 inches long and 2 inches in the opening. In each of the
recesses, on the right, is a small cupboard for the grease or tools needed by
the archer. The tower and rampart were ascended by a well-stair on the
north or upper side. The arrangements for allowing the archer to shoot
downwards so as to rake the steep scarp are well seen here. This tower is
named from a bold and well-preserved shield upon its outer face, charged
with a bend fusilly, or five fusils conjoined in bend, and held up by two
hands which emerge from holes in the stone. This is one of the well-known
coats attributed to the Mareschals, Earls of Pembroke; but, as this family
was extinct half a century before the date of this tower, and does not appear
ever to have been connected with the castle, Mr. Bond has shown it to be
more probable that the shield is intended to commemorate Alan Plukenet,
constable of the castle in the 54th of Henry III., and a baron in the reign of
Edward, his son, and whose arms were either a bend engrailed, or fusilly,
represented anciently much in the same way, upon a field ermine, which fur
(as Mr. Bond suggests) may have been regarded as a tincture, the lines for
expressing which were not then employed, and the spots omitted by the
carver.
The curtain from this tower to the Gloriette angle of the inner ward is
constructed of much larger stones than those employed lower down. They
are as large as many of those in the Norman ashlar, but of ruder
workmanship.
Returning to the gatehouse and following the west front, this commences
with a short curtain, still standing, and connected with the first mural tower,
a drum of rather above half-round projection, capping an angle. It is solid to
the rampart level, and above this open at the gorge. Its single chamber has
three loops, cruciform, and shorter, wider, and of coarser construction than
those of the Horseshoe Tower, though still of excellent ashlar. This tower
Page 577
having been riven by powder is seen to be 10 yards in solid thickness. Its
base is perforated by a rude rectangular drain, 18 inches by 12 inches,
joined by other drains of 9 inches by 9 inches, all in the solid, and evidently
descending from garderobes, one of which seems to have been placed in the
curtain close north of this tower.
Next above this is the second or Well Tower, so called from a small
depression behind it, said to indicate a well. This tower resembles the last,
was, like it, solid in the base, and had one chamber on the rampart, open at
the gorge and pierced by three loops.
Close south of it was a small doorway, leading either to a garderobe or a
rampart stair. Of this, one jamb is alone seen.
Above the Well Tower is the third, and above the third, and also
connected with it by a short curtain, is the fourth of these mural towers.
This, however, though a tower, is of the nature of an épaulement, or redan,
and caps a projection or shoulder of the curtain. It has but two loops,
longitudinal only, one towards the field and one raking the south wall. The
former is divided into a short upper and long lower part by a narrow plate of
stone, which projects inwards like a shelf.
The curtain from this Redan Tower to the gateway of the middle ward is
probably earlier than either, and is very lofty. It traverses King John’s fosse.
It is constructed of large stones, and resembles, in some respects, the curtain
above the Plukenet Tower, at the other end of the same fosse. Below it is
solid, above it is pierced by four rude loops, boldly splayed within, and
which must have opened from a chamber, of which the curtain was the
outer wall, or possibly from a wooden platform.
The fosse, attributed to King John, which traverses the outer ward, is
about 20 feet deep, with a vertical counterscarp cut in the chalk rock. The
Plukenet Tower and adjacent curtain cross its east end, but these stand upon
a ridge of solid rock, showing that the ditch has never been continued into
the front in this direction. At its west end the case is different. There it has
been cut right into and down the slope, and the curtain crossing and
stopping it is built actually in the ditch.
No doubt the present dressing of the counterscarp is due to whoever
placed artillery upon its crest. Outside it, by way of glacis, is a level
base is perforated by a rude rectangular drain, 18 inches by 12 inches,
joined by other drains of 9 inches by 9 inches, all in the solid, and evidently
descending from garderobes, one of which seems to have been placed in the
curtain close north of this tower.
Next above this is the second or Well Tower, so called from a small
depression behind it, said to indicate a well. This tower resembles the last,
was, like it, solid in the base, and had one chamber on the rampart, open at
the gorge and pierced by three loops.
Close south of it was a small doorway, leading either to a garderobe or a
rampart stair. Of this, one jamb is alone seen.
Above the Well Tower is the third, and above the third, and also
connected with it by a short curtain, is the fourth of these mural towers.
This, however, though a tower, is of the nature of an épaulement, or redan,
and caps a projection or shoulder of the curtain. It has but two loops,
longitudinal only, one towards the field and one raking the south wall. The
former is divided into a short upper and long lower part by a narrow plate of
stone, which projects inwards like a shelf.
The curtain from this Redan Tower to the gateway of the middle ward is
probably earlier than either, and is very lofty. It traverses King John’s fosse.
It is constructed of large stones, and resembles, in some respects, the curtain
above the Plukenet Tower, at the other end of the same fosse. Below it is
solid, above it is pierced by four rude loops, boldly splayed within, and
which must have opened from a chamber, of which the curtain was the
outer wall, or possibly from a wooden platform.
The fosse, attributed to King John, which traverses the outer ward, is
about 20 feet deep, with a vertical counterscarp cut in the chalk rock. The
Plukenet Tower and adjacent curtain cross its east end, but these stand upon
a ridge of solid rock, showing that the ditch has never been continued into
the front in this direction. At its west end the case is different. There it has
been cut right into and down the slope, and the curtain crossing and
stopping it is built actually in the ditch.
No doubt the present dressing of the counterscarp is due to whoever
placed artillery upon its crest. Outside it, by way of glacis, is a level
Page 578
platform, 30 feet broad, known to have been defended by artillery, and in
front of which are three steps or benches. The whole work forms a fausse
braie at the foot of the glacis of the keep, and a strong defence in front of
the gatehouse of the middle ward. A bridge of two arches, of the same age
and fashion with that already described, traverses this fosse, here 50 feet
broad, and leads up to the middle gateway. A profile cut in one of the gate
towers shows where the parapet abutted, which, however, was clearly not
original. As in the lower bridge, a space of about 18 feet next the portal,
now filled with earth, was evidently intended to be spanned by the
drawbridge.
The middle ward is also triangular. Its longer and about equal north and
south sides are capped at the acute western angle by the Buttavant Tower,
and the base is formed by the middle gatehouse and curtain, and by the
revetment wall and gate (now destroyed) of the inner ward.
The gatehouse of the middle ward is a very fine structure. Like the lower
gatehouse, which it resembles in general arrangements, it is composed of
two drums flanking the entrance passage, and terminating square in the rear.
One, the north tower, rises direct from the fosse, without basement or set-
off, and is connected with a short but very thick and lofty curtain, which
ascends the steep ground to abut upon the keep. The tower is of bold
projection, but flat towards the curtain. Within is a lodge with one
cruciform loop to the front, and in rear traces of a stair which led to the
curtain, and thus by continued steps along its ramparts to the keep.
The other tower rises from the crest of the outer slope, where it appears
as a mural defence, upon the west front. Within is a small lodge with three
loops, one to the front, one on the flank towards the field, and one, now
closed up, to the rear, into the middle ward.
The portal has no jambs, but is entered under a segmental arch, double
chamfered, springing direct from the flanking towers. This recedes 4 feet 1
inch, and is succeeded by a rounded portcullis groove, 9 inches broad by 6
inches deep, but having, while within the arch, a flat margin of 3 inches on
either side. These margins cease above the arch, and the chase is of the
breadth of the groove only.
front of which are three steps or benches. The whole work forms a fausse
braie at the foot of the glacis of the keep, and a strong defence in front of
the gatehouse of the middle ward. A bridge of two arches, of the same age
and fashion with that already described, traverses this fosse, here 50 feet
broad, and leads up to the middle gateway. A profile cut in one of the gate
towers shows where the parapet abutted, which, however, was clearly not
original. As in the lower bridge, a space of about 18 feet next the portal,
now filled with earth, was evidently intended to be spanned by the
drawbridge.
The middle ward is also triangular. Its longer and about equal north and
south sides are capped at the acute western angle by the Buttavant Tower,
and the base is formed by the middle gatehouse and curtain, and by the
revetment wall and gate (now destroyed) of the inner ward.
The gatehouse of the middle ward is a very fine structure. Like the lower
gatehouse, which it resembles in general arrangements, it is composed of
two drums flanking the entrance passage, and terminating square in the rear.
One, the north tower, rises direct from the fosse, without basement or set-
off, and is connected with a short but very thick and lofty curtain, which
ascends the steep ground to abut upon the keep. The tower is of bold
projection, but flat towards the curtain. Within is a lodge with one
cruciform loop to the front, and in rear traces of a stair which led to the
curtain, and thus by continued steps along its ramparts to the keep.
The other tower rises from the crest of the outer slope, where it appears
as a mural defence, upon the west front. Within is a small lodge with three
loops, one to the front, one on the flank towards the field, and one, now
closed up, to the rear, into the middle ward.
The portal has no jambs, but is entered under a segmental arch, double
chamfered, springing direct from the flanking towers. This recedes 4 feet 1
inch, and is succeeded by a rounded portcullis groove, 9 inches broad by 6
inches deep, but having, while within the arch, a flat margin of 3 inches on
either side. These margins cease above the arch, and the chase is of the
breadth of the groove only.
Page 579
Behind the portcullis is a second arch, 2 feet 9 inches broad, succeeded
by a machicolation, 14 inches broad, and divided by four septa into five
square holes. These are placed immediately before the jambs of the gate
proper, where the passage is reduced by about 1 foot 8 inches.
Behind the jambs an arch of high spring and flat segmental curve
accommodated the folding-doors, when open. These were of wood, and the
bar-hole behind them is about 11 inches square. The hinges are gone.
Behind this last arch the passage was roofed with wood, and is now open.
In the rear are parts of the groove of a second portcullis—“altera
securitas”—so that there was probably a stone face to the back front of the
gatehouse, all now destroyed. The arrangements of this gateway as far back
as the lodge are shown in the accompanying section. See woodcut, Fig. II.
In the wooden roofed space are the doors of the two lodges. The south is
square-headed, with shoulders. The north, of the same shape, is protected
by a semicircular relieving arch in the wall above. This arch, in design and
material, has a very Norman aspect, and may have been preserved from an
older work. There are no remains of battlements on this gateway, but on its
front are stone corbels, probably intended to carry the hoarding, a feature of
military architecture so well described by M. Viollet-le-Duc.[4]
In the exterior portal, near the floor, and a few inches in front of the
portcullis groove, is a round hole, 5 inches across and 3 inches deep, which
seems to have carried the iron axle of the drawbridge. Above it is another
similar hole, no doubt connected with the working of the same defence.
Entering the gateway the road rises rapidly. On the right is the
exceedingly steep scarp, at the top of which is the bastion of the keep. On
the left is the curtain of the west front. Higher up the way turns to the right,
to reach the inner ward, and skirts on the left what seems to have been a
formal garden, indicated by a level plot, some foundations of walls, and two
alcoves, attributed to Sir John I’Anson, a rector of Corfe towards the end of
the last century.
Westward of this the ward seems to have been used for offices, and in
part covered over. In the north curtain is a half-round mural tower with four
loops, and of one story, open at the gorge. The water-table of a double-gable
roof is seen within, and the central gutter projects as a spout outside.
Further on is a blocked-up arch, probably an early postern, and, still further,
by a machicolation, 14 inches broad, and divided by four septa into five
square holes. These are placed immediately before the jambs of the gate
proper, where the passage is reduced by about 1 foot 8 inches.
Behind the jambs an arch of high spring and flat segmental curve
accommodated the folding-doors, when open. These were of wood, and the
bar-hole behind them is about 11 inches square. The hinges are gone.
Behind this last arch the passage was roofed with wood, and is now open.
In the rear are parts of the groove of a second portcullis—“altera
securitas”—so that there was probably a stone face to the back front of the
gatehouse, all now destroyed. The arrangements of this gateway as far back
as the lodge are shown in the accompanying section. See woodcut, Fig. II.
In the wooden roofed space are the doors of the two lodges. The south is
square-headed, with shoulders. The north, of the same shape, is protected
by a semicircular relieving arch in the wall above. This arch, in design and
material, has a very Norman aspect, and may have been preserved from an
older work. There are no remains of battlements on this gateway, but on its
front are stone corbels, probably intended to carry the hoarding, a feature of
military architecture so well described by M. Viollet-le-Duc.[4]
In the exterior portal, near the floor, and a few inches in front of the
portcullis groove, is a round hole, 5 inches across and 3 inches deep, which
seems to have carried the iron axle of the drawbridge. Above it is another
similar hole, no doubt connected with the working of the same defence.
Entering the gateway the road rises rapidly. On the right is the
exceedingly steep scarp, at the top of which is the bastion of the keep. On
the left is the curtain of the west front. Higher up the way turns to the right,
to reach the inner ward, and skirts on the left what seems to have been a
formal garden, indicated by a level plot, some foundations of walls, and two
alcoves, attributed to Sir John I’Anson, a rector of Corfe towards the end of
the last century.
Westward of this the ward seems to have been used for offices, and in
part covered over. In the north curtain is a half-round mural tower with four
loops, and of one story, open at the gorge. The water-table of a double-gable
roof is seen within, and the central gutter projects as a spout outside.
Further on is a blocked-up arch, probably an early postern, and, still further,
Page 580
the seat and drain of a large garderobe, beneath an arch in the wall, 8 feet
broad. Above is a plain corbel, hollowed to receive the wall-plate of a roof,
and no doubt one of a series. The country people call it the gallows. A part
of the south curtain of this ward is the most interesting feature of the whole
structure.
First, ascending from the gate, upon the left, is the curtain. Then, upon it,
a half-round mural tower with three loops, but closed, since its construction,
at the gorge by a wall, in which is a small door, which led into a contiguous
building. From this tower, westward, the curtain is constructed of flat stones
laid in a rude but distinctly herring-bone fashion. In it are three windows
and the place of a fourth. These are round-headed, 2 feet 4 inches diameter,
and 3 feet 6 inches deep, splayed to 12 inches, when they terminate in a
stone plate, out of which is cut a loop of 6 inches opening, and a rebate for a
shutter. At present they are 3 feet 6 inches to the springing, but a part may
be buried. These apertures are closed by the exterior casing of the wall. This
wall at its west end seems to have been returned inwards. Both this wall and
these windows have been regarded as part of the old Saxon palace, and this
may well be so. They certainly appear older than the Norman work of the
keep.
Westward of this old part is a walled-up doorway, with a pointed arch
springing from the usual Norman flat chamfered abacus. This looks like
transition Norman work. Outside it is masked by the facing. This door, the
base of which is buried, seems to have been a postern, although, it must be
confessed, in a most inconvenient position for such a means of egress.
The Buttavant Tower, which caps the western angle of the ward, and is a
marked object in the outline of the castle, seems to have been an octagon of
7 feet in the side, internal measurement, and of considerable thickness. The
casing of the lower part is gone. It had a sub-basement story, and two above
this, all floored with wood. A well-stair near the gorge leads to the summit.
The curtain from hence to the garderobe is destroyed.
The inner ward occupies the summit of the hill. It also is rudely
triangular, the great bastion forming the apex to the west, the Gloriette
bastion capping the angle to the south-east, and the obtuse angle to the
north-east being formed by the curtain alone. Towards the outer and middle
wards the wall is a strong revetment of masonry, crested by the curtain.
broad. Above is a plain corbel, hollowed to receive the wall-plate of a roof,
and no doubt one of a series. The country people call it the gallows. A part
of the south curtain of this ward is the most interesting feature of the whole
structure.
First, ascending from the gate, upon the left, is the curtain. Then, upon it,
a half-round mural tower with three loops, but closed, since its construction,
at the gorge by a wall, in which is a small door, which led into a contiguous
building. From this tower, westward, the curtain is constructed of flat stones
laid in a rude but distinctly herring-bone fashion. In it are three windows
and the place of a fourth. These are round-headed, 2 feet 4 inches diameter,
and 3 feet 6 inches deep, splayed to 12 inches, when they terminate in a
stone plate, out of which is cut a loop of 6 inches opening, and a rebate for a
shutter. At present they are 3 feet 6 inches to the springing, but a part may
be buried. These apertures are closed by the exterior casing of the wall. This
wall at its west end seems to have been returned inwards. Both this wall and
these windows have been regarded as part of the old Saxon palace, and this
may well be so. They certainly appear older than the Norman work of the
keep.
Westward of this old part is a walled-up doorway, with a pointed arch
springing from the usual Norman flat chamfered abacus. This looks like
transition Norman work. Outside it is masked by the facing. This door, the
base of which is buried, seems to have been a postern, although, it must be
confessed, in a most inconvenient position for such a means of egress.
The Buttavant Tower, which caps the western angle of the ward, and is a
marked object in the outline of the castle, seems to have been an octagon of
7 feet in the side, internal measurement, and of considerable thickness. The
casing of the lower part is gone. It had a sub-basement story, and two above
this, all floored with wood. A well-stair near the gorge leads to the summit.
The curtain from hence to the garderobe is destroyed.
The inner ward occupies the summit of the hill. It also is rudely
triangular, the great bastion forming the apex to the west, the Gloriette
bastion capping the angle to the south-east, and the obtuse angle to the
north-east being formed by the curtain alone. Towards the outer and middle
wards the wall is a strong revetment of masonry, crested by the curtain.
Page 581
Elsewhere the earth is only somewhat higher within than without the
curtain.
This ward contained two gateways, the keep, the Queen’s tower and
offices, and a well.
The gateway from the middle ward abutted on the northern curtain. It
was probably a mere aperture in a wall, without a regular gatehouse, else it
could scarcely have disappeared so completely, even under the crushing
weight of the fragments of the keep.
This gate opened into a small court, on the east side of which rose the
keep. A second and higher gate seems to have led into the actual ward, and
to have been placed close to the foot of the exterior staircase of the keep.
This gate is also completely gone. The survey by Treswell in 1586 shows
where it stood.
The keep is a quadrangular tower, 60 feet square and 80 feet high, of pure
Norman work. The east and west faces were strengthened with five flat
pilaster strips, 5 feet 4 inches broad, 18 inches projection, and 8 feet 4
inches apart. On the north and south faces were four similar strips, placed at
wider intervals. All rose from a common plinth, and died into the wall a
short distance below the battlement, a small portion of which is still visible,
not passing into it as at Chepstow and elsewhere, so as to panel the face.
The door of the ground floor, apparently 4 feet wide, and with very late
dressings, is at present in the west wall, here 9 feet thick, and may possibly
have been always there, although certainly not in its present form. It was
covered by the exterior stair. It is placed nearest to the south end, between
the second and third pilasters.
The stair, 9 feet broad, is built against the west face of the keep, without
bond, and perhaps a later addition. Beneath it is a large open arch, round-
headed, springing from flat pilaster jambs, which, continued above the
string or cap, panel the soffit of the vault. This arch serves as a porch to the
door of the basement of the keep.
The stair terminates in the staircase tower, a rectangular lean-to, or fore-
building appended to the keep, forming a vestibule to the main entrance,
and said to have carried the stairs leading to the upper floor. It is about 19
feet by 16 feet within, and has a stone bench against its north wall. The door
curtain.
This ward contained two gateways, the keep, the Queen’s tower and
offices, and a well.
The gateway from the middle ward abutted on the northern curtain. It
was probably a mere aperture in a wall, without a regular gatehouse, else it
could scarcely have disappeared so completely, even under the crushing
weight of the fragments of the keep.
This gate opened into a small court, on the east side of which rose the
keep. A second and higher gate seems to have led into the actual ward, and
to have been placed close to the foot of the exterior staircase of the keep.
This gate is also completely gone. The survey by Treswell in 1586 shows
where it stood.
The keep is a quadrangular tower, 60 feet square and 80 feet high, of pure
Norman work. The east and west faces were strengthened with five flat
pilaster strips, 5 feet 4 inches broad, 18 inches projection, and 8 feet 4
inches apart. On the north and south faces were four similar strips, placed at
wider intervals. All rose from a common plinth, and died into the wall a
short distance below the battlement, a small portion of which is still visible,
not passing into it as at Chepstow and elsewhere, so as to panel the face.
The door of the ground floor, apparently 4 feet wide, and with very late
dressings, is at present in the west wall, here 9 feet thick, and may possibly
have been always there, although certainly not in its present form. It was
covered by the exterior stair. It is placed nearest to the south end, between
the second and third pilasters.
The stair, 9 feet broad, is built against the west face of the keep, without
bond, and perhaps a later addition. Beneath it is a large open arch, round-
headed, springing from flat pilaster jambs, which, continued above the
string or cap, panel the soffit of the vault. This arch serves as a porch to the
door of the basement of the keep.
The stair terminates in the staircase tower, a rectangular lean-to, or fore-
building appended to the keep, forming a vestibule to the main entrance,
and said to have carried the stairs leading to the upper floor. It is about 19
feet by 16 feet within, and has a stone bench against its north wall. The door
Page 582
from the exterior stair in the north wall is round-headed, 6 feet 6 inches
wide, opening in a wall 6 feet thick, the other two walls being 4 feet. The
keep door, between the first and second pilasters, and therefore near the
angle of the keep, has been 6 feet broad, now enlarged to 9 feet. It has a flat
top, with a semicircular arch of relief in the wall above, not intended to be
seen. There was probably a door in the south wall of the vestibule opening
upon the great bastion, and there are traces of a covered passage from it into
the garderobe tower. This vestibule seems certainly to be of the age of the
keep, and to have been occupied by a staircase to the principal floor.
The keep was divided into two great chambers by a wall 6 feet thick. The
basement was covered, and the first story floored by ten large whole-timber
joists, the cavities for which remain in the south wall. The first floor
probably contained a chamber, 42 feet long by 28 feet broad, and 24 feet
high, which, however, must have been very dark, since the north wall was
interior, and the south without windows. Two small doors, probably of
rather later construction, open through the south wall into the exterior
gallery.
Above this room, forming the third story, was another, apparently of the
same size and much more cheerful, and which may have been the hall. A
well-stair led from this upwards, in the east wall, near its south end. The
water-tables within show a ridge and valley roof, as at Porchester, and
probably there was originally nothing above this floor.
The battlements, with a slight exception, are gone, but in the east and
west wall, just below the battlement line, are coupled Norman windows, of
about 3 feet opening, a pair between each pair of pilasters, thus forming a
sort of arcade, not unlike the far later ones at Swansea and Llanphey, but
much of which seems always to have been closed. It is remarkable that a
building so massive, and the walls of which are so thick, should have been
without the usual galleries and mural chambers found in Norman keeps.
Mr. Bond, who is intimately acquainted with this castle, and has brought
much critical knowledge to bear upon its details, is of opinion that the upper
part of the wall of the keep shows evidence of having been an addition to
the original structure, though at no very long interval of time.
Built against the exterior of the keep, on the south side, and projecting
into the outer ward, is another lean-to, or appended tower, of about 30 feet
wide, opening in a wall 6 feet thick, the other two walls being 4 feet. The
keep door, between the first and second pilasters, and therefore near the
angle of the keep, has been 6 feet broad, now enlarged to 9 feet. It has a flat
top, with a semicircular arch of relief in the wall above, not intended to be
seen. There was probably a door in the south wall of the vestibule opening
upon the great bastion, and there are traces of a covered passage from it into
the garderobe tower. This vestibule seems certainly to be of the age of the
keep, and to have been occupied by a staircase to the principal floor.
The keep was divided into two great chambers by a wall 6 feet thick. The
basement was covered, and the first story floored by ten large whole-timber
joists, the cavities for which remain in the south wall. The first floor
probably contained a chamber, 42 feet long by 28 feet broad, and 24 feet
high, which, however, must have been very dark, since the north wall was
interior, and the south without windows. Two small doors, probably of
rather later construction, open through the south wall into the exterior
gallery.
Above this room, forming the third story, was another, apparently of the
same size and much more cheerful, and which may have been the hall. A
well-stair led from this upwards, in the east wall, near its south end. The
water-tables within show a ridge and valley roof, as at Porchester, and
probably there was originally nothing above this floor.
The battlements, with a slight exception, are gone, but in the east and
west wall, just below the battlement line, are coupled Norman windows, of
about 3 feet opening, a pair between each pair of pilasters, thus forming a
sort of arcade, not unlike the far later ones at Swansea and Llanphey, but
much of which seems always to have been closed. It is remarkable that a
building so massive, and the walls of which are so thick, should have been
without the usual galleries and mural chambers found in Norman keeps.
Mr. Bond, who is intimately acquainted with this castle, and has brought
much critical knowledge to bear upon its details, is of opinion that the upper
part of the wall of the keep shows evidence of having been an addition to
the original structure, though at no very long interval of time.
Built against the exterior of the keep, on the south side, and projecting
into the outer ward, is another lean-to, or appended tower, of about 30 feet
Page 583
in breadth and 20 feet projection. Outside it has three pilaster strips and one
on each flank, rising from a common base. At present it reaches only to the
floor of the second story of the keep, but it seems to have been higher, and
is said to have been lowered by Sir C. Hatton. It is a garderobe tower, and
contains on each of its two floors two chambers of about 7 feet by 9 feet.
The upper are not accessible; but it is clear that a portion of the eastern
lower chambers was bratticed off, to carry the refuse from the upper. In the
western chamber is a stone arch, which may be taken to indicate the place
of this brattice. The eastern is open on one side, and was evidently closed
by a timber partition. These chambers terminate below in two square
openings, on the face of the tower, and this supports the notion that the
western as well as the eastern chamber was intended for a garderobe.
Between these chambers and the keep wall runs a vaulted gallery, into
which they open, and from which two small doors, already mentioned, enter
the first floor of the keep. Although the garderobe tower covers only half
the face of the keep, this gallery is prolonged over the whole, being
protected by a wall, looped. A door at its lower or east end led towards the
kitchen, and one at the upper end opened on the great bastion, with access
on the right to the vestibule, and on the left to the curtain leading from the
keep to the middle gatehouse. Two water-drains from the keep cross the
gallery and discharge into the garderobes.
This tower, being built against and not bonded into the keep, is evidently
later, but resembles it in general style, and must have been added within a
very few years. The explosion which shattered the keep has made evident
the complete want of bond between the two buildings.
East of the keep the ward is occupied by the remains of various offices,
and by the ruins of the Queen’s Hall or Tower. This, with its contiguous
buildings, was constructed upon crypts, some of which remain. One is
round-headed, with a pointed doorway; another, which supported the
Queen’s Hall, seems to have had a very slightly pointed barrel-vault,
divided by lateral narrower, but equally high, and therefore pointed, arches,
into four bays, two of which contain lancet windows.
Some of the hall windows remain. They are pointed, with drop arch
recesses, and stone side seats. The tracery is gone, but the exterior labels
on each flank, rising from a common base. At present it reaches only to the
floor of the second story of the keep, but it seems to have been higher, and
is said to have been lowered by Sir C. Hatton. It is a garderobe tower, and
contains on each of its two floors two chambers of about 7 feet by 9 feet.
The upper are not accessible; but it is clear that a portion of the eastern
lower chambers was bratticed off, to carry the refuse from the upper. In the
western chamber is a stone arch, which may be taken to indicate the place
of this brattice. The eastern is open on one side, and was evidently closed
by a timber partition. These chambers terminate below in two square
openings, on the face of the tower, and this supports the notion that the
western as well as the eastern chamber was intended for a garderobe.
Between these chambers and the keep wall runs a vaulted gallery, into
which they open, and from which two small doors, already mentioned, enter
the first floor of the keep. Although the garderobe tower covers only half
the face of the keep, this gallery is prolonged over the whole, being
protected by a wall, looped. A door at its lower or east end led towards the
kitchen, and one at the upper end opened on the great bastion, with access
on the right to the vestibule, and on the left to the curtain leading from the
keep to the middle gatehouse. Two water-drains from the keep cross the
gallery and discharge into the garderobes.
This tower, being built against and not bonded into the keep, is evidently
later, but resembles it in general style, and must have been added within a
very few years. The explosion which shattered the keep has made evident
the complete want of bond between the two buildings.
East of the keep the ward is occupied by the remains of various offices,
and by the ruins of the Queen’s Hall or Tower. This, with its contiguous
buildings, was constructed upon crypts, some of which remain. One is
round-headed, with a pointed doorway; another, which supported the
Queen’s Hall, seems to have had a very slightly pointed barrel-vault,
divided by lateral narrower, but equally high, and therefore pointed, arches,
into four bays, two of which contain lancet windows.
Some of the hall windows remain. They are pointed, with drop arch
recesses, and stone side seats. The tracery is gone, but the exterior labels
Page 584
remain, terminating in knobs of foliage, and the arris or angle of each recess
is occupied by a scroll-bead moulding.
North of this hall and placed across it, east and west, are the remains of
what is regarded, with great probability, as the chapel. The west door and
that of the hall are placed side by side, in a vestibule or porch, entered on
the west side by a staircase.
The doors are pointed, with half-round bead labels, and a scroll-bead
moulding running round the jambs and arch. Inside, the chapel door is
richer, and has in the arch a double scroll-bead, divided by a hollow, and for
the jambs the hollow has been occupied by a detached column of Purbeck
marble, which material, though much decayed, is still seen to have formed
the base and bell capital. The design, though not highly ornate, is excellent,
as is the execution. The whole of this group appears to be early English, of
the latter part of the reign of Henry III.
Close to the east of the hall, between it and the curtain, is a depression,
said to mark the well. This must have been of great depth—probably to the
level of the brook.
The tower spoken of as “La Gloriette” is probably gone, but near it is
what may be called the Gloriette bastion, and what seems to be the angular
base of a tower capping the south-east angle of the ward, and intended to
cover the junction of the wall with the curtain which comes up from the
Plukenet Tower. Near to it, westward, is a mural chamber in the curtain,
which Treswell’s plan shows as a garderobe, and beyond this an angular
bastion, supposed to have been added by Lady Bankes, who seems to have
placed a gun there.
The great bastion is a very peculiar work. It is of rounded outline, formed
by a very thick and high wall of revetment, which caps the west end of the
southern curtain, and projects into the middle ward. At the siege it carried
five guns, and was called the New Bulwark. But, although it may then have
been widened to carry a battery, it was probably only an addition to the
older Norman revetment wall supporting the staircase tower. The exterior,
and therefore perhaps later, revetment has been injured at the base, and the
heart of the work is exposed. It shows very rough filling up.
is occupied by a scroll-bead moulding.
North of this hall and placed across it, east and west, are the remains of
what is regarded, with great probability, as the chapel. The west door and
that of the hall are placed side by side, in a vestibule or porch, entered on
the west side by a staircase.
The doors are pointed, with half-round bead labels, and a scroll-bead
moulding running round the jambs and arch. Inside, the chapel door is
richer, and has in the arch a double scroll-bead, divided by a hollow, and for
the jambs the hollow has been occupied by a detached column of Purbeck
marble, which material, though much decayed, is still seen to have formed
the base and bell capital. The design, though not highly ornate, is excellent,
as is the execution. The whole of this group appears to be early English, of
the latter part of the reign of Henry III.
Close to the east of the hall, between it and the curtain, is a depression,
said to mark the well. This must have been of great depth—probably to the
level of the brook.
The tower spoken of as “La Gloriette” is probably gone, but near it is
what may be called the Gloriette bastion, and what seems to be the angular
base of a tower capping the south-east angle of the ward, and intended to
cover the junction of the wall with the curtain which comes up from the
Plukenet Tower. Near to it, westward, is a mural chamber in the curtain,
which Treswell’s plan shows as a garderobe, and beyond this an angular
bastion, supposed to have been added by Lady Bankes, who seems to have
placed a gun there.
The great bastion is a very peculiar work. It is of rounded outline, formed
by a very thick and high wall of revetment, which caps the west end of the
southern curtain, and projects into the middle ward. At the siege it carried
five guns, and was called the New Bulwark. But, although it may then have
been widened to carry a battery, it was probably only an addition to the
older Norman revetment wall supporting the staircase tower. The exterior,
and therefore perhaps later, revetment has been injured at the base, and the
heart of the work is exposed. It shows very rough filling up.
Page 585
The south curtain of this ward is about 12 feet thick, but the north and
east, being less exposed and having no buildings to support, are much
lighter, and present nothing of the strength considered necessary in the
lower and more exposed portions of the fortress.
The present condition of the building is completely to be accounted for
by the fact that Corfe Castle was “slighted” under a vote of the House of
Commons, dated 4th of March, 1645, a period at which the orders of the
Commons were not obeyed negligently.
In the outer gateway the drums are blown forwards, the vault split, and
the rear of the lodges destroyed. All the upper story is removed.
Eastward the curtain is broken down, but the Horseshoe Tower is not
materially injured. The rest of the curtain to the Plukenet Tower is broken
down in parts only. That tower and the curtain up to the keep have not been
dismantled, and but partially pulled down.
In this outer ward the main force of the destroyers has been spent upon
the lower half of the west front, of which the curtains are lifted forwards,
and the mural towers rent and shaken, vast fragments of both encumbering
the slope. The Redan Tower has escaped, as has the curtain which traverses
King John’s fosse.
The gateway of the middle ward presents a singular appearance. A mine
has been excavated beneath the outer tower, which has sunk about 10 feet,
and moved a little forward, splitting the entrance vault. This can hardly be
the effect of powder, but is more probably due to a mine of the old sort, in
which the earth was removed, and wooden props introduced, which were
afterwards pulled away or burnt.
Of the Buttavant Tower about two-thirds are gone, with part of the north
curtain. The great curtain between the middle gatehouse and the keep is
unshaken, only its steps and battlements are gone. It is one of the finest
curtain walls in Britain, and almost equal to Cardiff.
In the inner ward the devastation has been severe. Of the keep, all the
north and two-thirds of the adjacent west wall lie in enormous masses on
the sward, and in their fall have utterly crushed the gateways of the ward
and their adjacent curtain. The east wall is destroyed at its two ends, but a
strip of the central part remains unhurt to its summit, a marvel of Norman
east, being less exposed and having no buildings to support, are much
lighter, and present nothing of the strength considered necessary in the
lower and more exposed portions of the fortress.
The present condition of the building is completely to be accounted for
by the fact that Corfe Castle was “slighted” under a vote of the House of
Commons, dated 4th of March, 1645, a period at which the orders of the
Commons were not obeyed negligently.
In the outer gateway the drums are blown forwards, the vault split, and
the rear of the lodges destroyed. All the upper story is removed.
Eastward the curtain is broken down, but the Horseshoe Tower is not
materially injured. The rest of the curtain to the Plukenet Tower is broken
down in parts only. That tower and the curtain up to the keep have not been
dismantled, and but partially pulled down.
In this outer ward the main force of the destroyers has been spent upon
the lower half of the west front, of which the curtains are lifted forwards,
and the mural towers rent and shaken, vast fragments of both encumbering
the slope. The Redan Tower has escaped, as has the curtain which traverses
King John’s fosse.
The gateway of the middle ward presents a singular appearance. A mine
has been excavated beneath the outer tower, which has sunk about 10 feet,
and moved a little forward, splitting the entrance vault. This can hardly be
the effect of powder, but is more probably due to a mine of the old sort, in
which the earth was removed, and wooden props introduced, which were
afterwards pulled away or burnt.
Of the Buttavant Tower about two-thirds are gone, with part of the north
curtain. The great curtain between the middle gatehouse and the keep is
unshaken, only its steps and battlements are gone. It is one of the finest
curtain walls in Britain, and almost equal to Cardiff.
In the inner ward the devastation has been severe. Of the keep, all the
north and two-thirds of the adjacent west wall lie in enormous masses on
the sward, and in their fall have utterly crushed the gateways of the ward
and their adjacent curtain. The east wall is destroyed at its two ends, but a
strip of the central part remains unhurt to its summit, a marvel of Norman
Page 586
masonry, and is completely shrouded in ivy. The south wall and garderobe
tower are but little injured. The staircase tower is destroyed, all but a part of
the north wall. The broken-down walls of the keep are a sight to see, so vast
is the mass of the fragments and so firm the cohesion of the material. They
lie in the wildest confusion, and some considerable lumps have rolled down
the slope, and, bounding across road and brook, rest half buried in the turf
beyond.
The Queen’s Tower and offices are destroyed, but, offering less
resistance, have been broken up more in detail, and have no doubt been
spoiled subsequently for the sake of the ashlar.
The destruction probably exceeds anything known elsewhere in England.
The charges of powder, though skilfully disposed, seem to have been larger
than was actually necessary; and, certainly, the place might have been
rendered untenable with far less destruction of masonry. Even with such
mortars as were used in the days of the Commonwealth, the castle could
have been commanded from the loftier Challow Hill, close to the east of it.
A few remarks naturally arise out of the above description.
The Saxon residence, of the existence of which there appears to be
evidence in the latter part of the tenth century, was no doubt also a place of
strength. It is certain that it must have occupied the highest part of the hill,
now the inner ward, and the wall remaining in the middle ward will
probably be accepted as evidence that it extended over the area of this ward
also.
The Normans probably made a clear sweep of any existing buildings in
the inner ward, when they commenced the keep and its accessories, and, a
little later, the garderobe tower. These are all built of large squared stones,
with moderately open joints; thoroughly substantial, sound work, and all the
more workmanlike and effective for a certain roughness and boldness in the
finish. The ashlar, usually an indication of late work, was here close at hand
in the Purbeck quarries, and the general absence of ornament in a royal
residence, of vaulting, of triforial galleries or mural chambers, and, with
one partial exception, of mural staircases, seem to indicate the work, if not
of the Conqueror, of his more immediate successors. The garderobe tower,
not particularly late Norman, but certainly subsequent to the keep, seems to
strengthen this conclusion.
tower are but little injured. The staircase tower is destroyed, all but a part of
the north wall. The broken-down walls of the keep are a sight to see, so vast
is the mass of the fragments and so firm the cohesion of the material. They
lie in the wildest confusion, and some considerable lumps have rolled down
the slope, and, bounding across road and brook, rest half buried in the turf
beyond.
The Queen’s Tower and offices are destroyed, but, offering less
resistance, have been broken up more in detail, and have no doubt been
spoiled subsequently for the sake of the ashlar.
The destruction probably exceeds anything known elsewhere in England.
The charges of powder, though skilfully disposed, seem to have been larger
than was actually necessary; and, certainly, the place might have been
rendered untenable with far less destruction of masonry. Even with such
mortars as were used in the days of the Commonwealth, the castle could
have been commanded from the loftier Challow Hill, close to the east of it.
A few remarks naturally arise out of the above description.
The Saxon residence, of the existence of which there appears to be
evidence in the latter part of the tenth century, was no doubt also a place of
strength. It is certain that it must have occupied the highest part of the hill,
now the inner ward, and the wall remaining in the middle ward will
probably be accepted as evidence that it extended over the area of this ward
also.
The Normans probably made a clear sweep of any existing buildings in
the inner ward, when they commenced the keep and its accessories, and, a
little later, the garderobe tower. These are all built of large squared stones,
with moderately open joints; thoroughly substantial, sound work, and all the
more workmanlike and effective for a certain roughness and boldness in the
finish. The ashlar, usually an indication of late work, was here close at hand
in the Purbeck quarries, and the general absence of ornament in a royal
residence, of vaulting, of triforial galleries or mural chambers, and, with
one partial exception, of mural staircases, seem to indicate the work, if not
of the Conqueror, of his more immediate successors. The garderobe tower,
not particularly late Norman, but certainly subsequent to the keep, seems to
strengthen this conclusion.
Page 587
As the Norman buildings required to be included within an enceinte wall,
which would naturally take the crest of this part of the hill, this would
necessarily include or supersede the Saxon wall, which, for the same
reason, would have followed the same limited outline. Probably, therefore,
the curtains of the upper and middle ward contain traces of Saxon and a
great deal of Norman masonry, and this applies also to the cross revetment
wall between the inner and middle wards, which follows a natural division
in the ground. The same natural cause would decide the position of the
gates, where we now see them.
The original Norman castle has generally been supposed to have been
restricted to the two upper wards, to which, according to Mr. Bond, the
great authority for all matters connected with Corfe, King John added the
defence of a deep fosse. It is singular, however, that this fosse, while cut
right through to the western slope, should stop a little short of the eastern
face. The narrow ridge thus left could scarcely have been intended for a
passage, for the gateway of the upper ward must necessarily, from the
disposition of the ground, always have been at the western or lower end of
the fosse, and, had a ridge been left as an approach, it would certainly not
have been one of almost inaccessible steepness, much exposed to view and
to attack, and not defensible by any special work.
The wall, from the Gloriette angle along the ridge, nearly to the Plukenet
Tower, has been observed to be of regular Norman work, and, according to
Mr. Bond, to show evidence of having been returned inwards, as though it
extended along the line of the later ditch. Thus it may be, that before King
John’s time the fortress occupied the present upper and middle wards, and a
strip of the lower ward along the foot of the glacis of the keep. This is, no
doubt, more probable than that it occupied the whole of the lower ward,
covering the same area with the present works.
Mr. Bond has been able, by documentary evidence, to fix the date of the
great curtain, which connects the later middle gate with the earlier keep
tower, at 1236; as with such a curtain there must have been a tolerably
strong gate, and, as the present gate is some years later, this was no doubt
Norman, though probably very late—say of the age of the curtain traversing
King John’s fosse at the lower end. Perhaps the pointed arch with Norman
springing-course, in the wall next the Buttavant Tower, may be of the same
which would naturally take the crest of this part of the hill, this would
necessarily include or supersede the Saxon wall, which, for the same
reason, would have followed the same limited outline. Probably, therefore,
the curtains of the upper and middle ward contain traces of Saxon and a
great deal of Norman masonry, and this applies also to the cross revetment
wall between the inner and middle wards, which follows a natural division
in the ground. The same natural cause would decide the position of the
gates, where we now see them.
The original Norman castle has generally been supposed to have been
restricted to the two upper wards, to which, according to Mr. Bond, the
great authority for all matters connected with Corfe, King John added the
defence of a deep fosse. It is singular, however, that this fosse, while cut
right through to the western slope, should stop a little short of the eastern
face. The narrow ridge thus left could scarcely have been intended for a
passage, for the gateway of the upper ward must necessarily, from the
disposition of the ground, always have been at the western or lower end of
the fosse, and, had a ridge been left as an approach, it would certainly not
have been one of almost inaccessible steepness, much exposed to view and
to attack, and not defensible by any special work.
The wall, from the Gloriette angle along the ridge, nearly to the Plukenet
Tower, has been observed to be of regular Norman work, and, according to
Mr. Bond, to show evidence of having been returned inwards, as though it
extended along the line of the later ditch. Thus it may be, that before King
John’s time the fortress occupied the present upper and middle wards, and a
strip of the lower ward along the foot of the glacis of the keep. This is, no
doubt, more probable than that it occupied the whole of the lower ward,
covering the same area with the present works.
Mr. Bond has been able, by documentary evidence, to fix the date of the
great curtain, which connects the later middle gate with the earlier keep
tower, at 1236; as with such a curtain there must have been a tolerably
strong gate, and, as the present gate is some years later, this was no doubt
Norman, though probably very late—say of the age of the curtain traversing
King John’s fosse at the lower end. Perhaps the pointed arch with Norman
springing-course, in the wall next the Buttavant Tower, may be of the same
Page 588
period—say the reign of Henry II., though the wall itself may be shown, by
the evidence of records, to be later.
The lower ward, in its present state, was certainly enclosed towards the
end of the reign of Henry III., and in that of Edward I. To this age may be
attributed the outer and middle gatehouse, and the four mural towers of the
outer ward, as well as the work of the Queen’s Tower, with its hall and
chapel. The Plukenet Tower may be assigned to the constableship of that
baron, 54 Hen. III., or a little later.
To this period also is to be assigned the facing of the south wall of the
middle ward. The ashlar of this age, though it has not the grand, effective
boldness of the Norman work, cannot be surpassed for closeness of jointing
and general excellence of workmanship. The stones, from 1 foot to 2 feet
long, and 8 inches wide, are coursed and well bonded, and their angles are
as fresh as when newly cut.
The excessive solidity of the mural towers upon the west front is very
remarkable. Possibly this unusual strength was intended to counteract the
danger of being mined, for which the soft chalk offered great facilities.
the evidence of records, to be later.
The lower ward, in its present state, was certainly enclosed towards the
end of the reign of Henry III., and in that of Edward I. To this age may be
attributed the outer and middle gatehouse, and the four mural towers of the
outer ward, as well as the work of the Queen’s Tower, with its hall and
chapel. The Plukenet Tower may be assigned to the constableship of that
baron, 54 Hen. III., or a little later.
To this period also is to be assigned the facing of the south wall of the
middle ward. The ashlar of this age, though it has not the grand, effective
boldness of the Norman work, cannot be surpassed for closeness of jointing
and general excellence of workmanship. The stones, from 1 foot to 2 feet
long, and 8 inches wide, are coursed and well bonded, and their angles are
as fresh as when newly cut.
The excessive solidity of the mural towers upon the west front is very
remarkable. Possibly this unusual strength was intended to counteract the
danger of being mined, for which the soft chalk offered great facilities.
Page 589
THE CASTLE OF COUCY, NEAR LAON.
COUCY-LE-CHÂTEAU, town and castle, are built upon and completely
occupy the somewhat irregularly-shaped but level summit of a promontory
of chalk, the eastern part or root of which is connected with the high land of
the upper forest of Coucy, while towards the north and west the termination
of the platform stands out boldly and abruptly, from 150 feet to 200 feet
above the fertile valleys on either hand, whence spring the tributary waters
of the Lette, a stream which flows down from the ancient city of Laon to
reach the Oise at Manicamp.
The valleys immediately below and commanded by the castle bear marks
of high and early cultivation, and no doubt contributed largely to its
support. More distant, chiefly on the eastern and northern sides, are the
immense woodland tracts of the high and low forests of Coucy, St. Gobain,
and Monceau, while to the south are those of Pinon and Mostier. Occupying
fertile spots amidst these forests were the abbeys of Nogent, St. Nicholas,
Barizy, and Prémontre, where was the burial-place of the De Coucys, and
the remains of which religious houses are interspersed with those of the
castles of St. Gobain, Folembray, Anizy, La Fère, Pinon, and many others,
showing the value attached to this tract of country by the jealousy displayed
in its defence.
The etymology of Coucy has not been explained. The district in which it
stands was known as Le Mege in the sixth century, and Coucy was probably
included in that part of it granted by Clovis to St. Remi for the
archiepiscopal see of Reims, a.d. 500. In 909 it was in the hands of
Archbishop Hervé, who, moved by the rising power of the Norman, here
first built the castle known henceforward as Coucy.
Whatever may have been the particulars of this fortress, its area must
have been identical with that of the latter work, governed by the
configuration of the ground; and, whatever may have been its construction,
its position could not but endow it with strength and importance. It became
at once a place of note. Here, Hervé, Count of Vermandois, imprisoned
COUCY-LE-CHÂTEAU, town and castle, are built upon and completely
occupy the somewhat irregularly-shaped but level summit of a promontory
of chalk, the eastern part or root of which is connected with the high land of
the upper forest of Coucy, while towards the north and west the termination
of the platform stands out boldly and abruptly, from 150 feet to 200 feet
above the fertile valleys on either hand, whence spring the tributary waters
of the Lette, a stream which flows down from the ancient city of Laon to
reach the Oise at Manicamp.
The valleys immediately below and commanded by the castle bear marks
of high and early cultivation, and no doubt contributed largely to its
support. More distant, chiefly on the eastern and northern sides, are the
immense woodland tracts of the high and low forests of Coucy, St. Gobain,
and Monceau, while to the south are those of Pinon and Mostier. Occupying
fertile spots amidst these forests were the abbeys of Nogent, St. Nicholas,
Barizy, and Prémontre, where was the burial-place of the De Coucys, and
the remains of which religious houses are interspersed with those of the
castles of St. Gobain, Folembray, Anizy, La Fère, Pinon, and many others,
showing the value attached to this tract of country by the jealousy displayed
in its defence.
The etymology of Coucy has not been explained. The district in which it
stands was known as Le Mege in the sixth century, and Coucy was probably
included in that part of it granted by Clovis to St. Remi for the
archiepiscopal see of Reims, a.d. 500. In 909 it was in the hands of
Archbishop Hervé, who, moved by the rising power of the Norman, here
first built the castle known henceforward as Coucy.
Whatever may have been the particulars of this fortress, its area must
have been identical with that of the latter work, governed by the
configuration of the ground; and, whatever may have been its construction,
its position could not but endow it with strength and importance. It became
at once a place of note. Here, Hervé, Count of Vermandois, imprisoned
Page 590
Charles the Simple, whom he sold to his rival king for the county of Laon.
Nevertheless, in 930, Hervé was forced to give up Coucy to Boson, brother
to Raoul, king of France. Boson was slain before St. Quentin in 931, and,
after a century of vicissitudes, the domain, held by a mere quit-rent of the
Church, was in 1037 the signory of Alberic, the founder of the baronial
name of Coucy. It is uncertain whether Alberic was of the family of Eudo
de Chartres or that of the Counts of Vermandois. By marriage he added
Amiens and its adjacent castle of Bôves to Coucy, and is thought to have
founded the abbey of Nogent-sous-Coucy.
Alberic was succeeded by his son Enguerrand, Sieur de Coucy, Count of
Amiens, and Lord of Bôves. He married Ada, heiress of Letard de Roucy,
Lord of Marle, second son of Gilbert, Count of Reims, with whom he
acquired Marle and La Fère. He—or more probably his son—first assumed
the well-known armorial bearings, “Barry of 6, vaire and gules.” He died
1116, leaving Thomas.
Thomas de Marle, de Coucy, his son and successor, long in rebellion
against his father, bore a bad name for violence. He lost Amiens; but, again
by marriage, acquired Crécy-sur-Serre and Nogent. He died 1130.
Enguerrand II., known as Le Sire de Coucy—this title, it is said, denoting
the lord of an allodial fief—held also Marle, Crécy, Vervins, Pinon, and La
Fère, in which latter castle he defended himself with success against Louis
le Gros and Raoul, Count of Vermandois, in 1132. His reign was one of
peace and justice.
This Enguerrand is said to have slain in personal combat a ferocious
beast called a lion that infested the neighbourhood; and this tale is no doubt
the origin of the lions which were used by the family as crest and
supporters. Such tales were common in the twelfth century, only the scene
of the exploit was usually more safely laid in Palestine. This combat was
commemorated in a bas-relief over the door of the keep at Coucy, and was
probably the foundation of a singular ceremony which only ceased at the
Revolution. Thrice annually, at Easter, Pentecost, and Christmas, the Abbot
of Nogent, or his attorney, entered Coucy by the lower gate, a whip in his
hand and mounted upon a crop-eared and docktailed bay. On his poitrel was
suspended a seed-bag of white linen filled with wheat, and in a basket
certain crescent-shaped cakes stuffed with minced veal, cooked in oil, and
Nevertheless, in 930, Hervé was forced to give up Coucy to Boson, brother
to Raoul, king of France. Boson was slain before St. Quentin in 931, and,
after a century of vicissitudes, the domain, held by a mere quit-rent of the
Church, was in 1037 the signory of Alberic, the founder of the baronial
name of Coucy. It is uncertain whether Alberic was of the family of Eudo
de Chartres or that of the Counts of Vermandois. By marriage he added
Amiens and its adjacent castle of Bôves to Coucy, and is thought to have
founded the abbey of Nogent-sous-Coucy.
Alberic was succeeded by his son Enguerrand, Sieur de Coucy, Count of
Amiens, and Lord of Bôves. He married Ada, heiress of Letard de Roucy,
Lord of Marle, second son of Gilbert, Count of Reims, with whom he
acquired Marle and La Fère. He—or more probably his son—first assumed
the well-known armorial bearings, “Barry of 6, vaire and gules.” He died
1116, leaving Thomas.
Thomas de Marle, de Coucy, his son and successor, long in rebellion
against his father, bore a bad name for violence. He lost Amiens; but, again
by marriage, acquired Crécy-sur-Serre and Nogent. He died 1130.
Enguerrand II., known as Le Sire de Coucy—this title, it is said, denoting
the lord of an allodial fief—held also Marle, Crécy, Vervins, Pinon, and La
Fère, in which latter castle he defended himself with success against Louis
le Gros and Raoul, Count of Vermandois, in 1132. His reign was one of
peace and justice.
This Enguerrand is said to have slain in personal combat a ferocious
beast called a lion that infested the neighbourhood; and this tale is no doubt
the origin of the lions which were used by the family as crest and
supporters. Such tales were common in the twelfth century, only the scene
of the exploit was usually more safely laid in Palestine. This combat was
commemorated in a bas-relief over the door of the keep at Coucy, and was
probably the foundation of a singular ceremony which only ceased at the
Revolution. Thrice annually, at Easter, Pentecost, and Christmas, the Abbot
of Nogent, or his attorney, entered Coucy by the lower gate, a whip in his
hand and mounted upon a crop-eared and docktailed bay. On his poitrel was
suspended a seed-bag of white linen filled with wheat, and in a basket
certain crescent-shaped cakes stuffed with minced veal, cooked in oil, and
Page 591
called rissoles, probably the earliest mention of a dish which has descended
to our own times.
Behind the abbot came a red dog, also with cropped ears and tail, and
having a rissole suspended from his neck. This singular procession then
entered the castle, and at the base of the keep the abbot made the circuit of a
central and three lesser couchant lions there carved in stone, and afterwards
embraced the larger beast. This done, he offered the cakes in homage to the
lord, who distributed them to the people, and then witnessed the record of
the homage by affixing to it a special seal, representing a mitred and
crosiered abbot, having for feet the hoofs of a buck. A representation of this
ceremony in tapestry long adorned the walls of the castle, and is thought to
have been taken into Lorraine after the marriage of a later Coucy with a
daughter of that house.
Enguerrand II. died while on a crusade in Palestine about 1148; but his
body was laid in his abbey of Prémontre, near the castle, where his effigy
remained in 1682.
Raoul de Coucy, son and successor, was under age at his father’s death.
He married, about 1169, Agnes of Hainault; and secondly, Alix, niece of
Louis-le-Jeune, and sister of Robert de Dreux. By this match he connected
himself with the blood royal. He accompanied Philip Augustus to Palestine
in 1188, and fell before the walls of Acre in 1191. He was buried at Foigny,
and his son by Alix was his successor.
Enguerrand III., called the Great, Lord of Montmirail, Oisy, Crèvecour, la
Ferté-Ancoul, la Ferté-Gaucher, Vicomte de Meaux, and Châtelan of
Cambrai. He was the founder of the present castle, and at the same time
walled in the considerable town that had risen under the protection of his
ancestors. As he was a child at his accession, his mother administered the
signory, and conceded a charter of liberties to the town in 1197, which he
confirmed when of age. In 1200, more majorum, he attacked the property of
the Church of Reims. In 1210, he joined the Count of Vermandois in the
first crusade against the Albigenses, and again in 1219 and 1226; then
assisting at the siege of Toulouse and the taking of Avignon. He
distinguished himself also at the battle of Bovines.
Enguerrand, though not wanting in territorial power, exercised an
influence far beyond that due to wealth or breadth of possessions, and
to our own times.
Behind the abbot came a red dog, also with cropped ears and tail, and
having a rissole suspended from his neck. This singular procession then
entered the castle, and at the base of the keep the abbot made the circuit of a
central and three lesser couchant lions there carved in stone, and afterwards
embraced the larger beast. This done, he offered the cakes in homage to the
lord, who distributed them to the people, and then witnessed the record of
the homage by affixing to it a special seal, representing a mitred and
crosiered abbot, having for feet the hoofs of a buck. A representation of this
ceremony in tapestry long adorned the walls of the castle, and is thought to
have been taken into Lorraine after the marriage of a later Coucy with a
daughter of that house.
Enguerrand II. died while on a crusade in Palestine about 1148; but his
body was laid in his abbey of Prémontre, near the castle, where his effigy
remained in 1682.
Raoul de Coucy, son and successor, was under age at his father’s death.
He married, about 1169, Agnes of Hainault; and secondly, Alix, niece of
Louis-le-Jeune, and sister of Robert de Dreux. By this match he connected
himself with the blood royal. He accompanied Philip Augustus to Palestine
in 1188, and fell before the walls of Acre in 1191. He was buried at Foigny,
and his son by Alix was his successor.
Enguerrand III., called the Great, Lord of Montmirail, Oisy, Crèvecour, la
Ferté-Ancoul, la Ferté-Gaucher, Vicomte de Meaux, and Châtelan of
Cambrai. He was the founder of the present castle, and at the same time
walled in the considerable town that had risen under the protection of his
ancestors. As he was a child at his accession, his mother administered the
signory, and conceded a charter of liberties to the town in 1197, which he
confirmed when of age. In 1200, more majorum, he attacked the property of
the Church of Reims. In 1210, he joined the Count of Vermandois in the
first crusade against the Albigenses, and again in 1219 and 1226; then
assisting at the siege of Toulouse and the taking of Avignon. He
distinguished himself also at the battle of Bovines.
Enguerrand, though not wanting in territorial power, exercised an
influence far beyond that due to wealth or breadth of possessions, and
Page 592
which was in great measure personal. He appears to have submitted with an
ill grace to the government of Queen Blanche during the minority of St.
Louis, and is said to have even contemplated regal power. However this
may be, the consciousness of his influence, no doubt, led him to erect the
Castle of Coucy, it is thought, between 1225–1230; and it maybe that in so
doing he proposed to himself to cast into the shade the grand tower of the
Louvre, the work, a few years before, of Philip Augustus. He is also said to
have rebuilt his other castles of St. Gobain, Assis, Marle, Folembrai, and St.
Aubyn, and the Hôtel Coucy at Paris.
In 1244, he was in the confidence of St. Louis, and attended a conference
of nobles at Chinon, where he supported the plan of a descent upon
England; but while assembling his vassals for this purpose he was flung
from his horse and killed by his own sword. Of his children by Marie de
Montmirail, Raoul II., who fell in the crusade of 1250, and Enguerrand IV.,
became successively Sieurs de Coucy; but both died childless, and with the
last closed the male line of these great barons. Alix, half-sister to the last
lords, married Arnoul, Count de Guines. Enguerrand the Great had also a
daughter, Mary, who in 1239 became the second wife of Alexander II. of
Scotland, and the mother of Alexander III. Mary was a very remarkable
person, and exercised the duties of guardian to her son in difficult times in a
very efficient manner, devising and executing a vigorous policy of her own.
Arnold Comte de Guines sold Guines to Philip le Hardi in 1282. Alix de
Coucy, his wife, was daughter of Enguerrand III. by Marie Dame d’Oisy,
his third wife. They had Enguerrand V. de Guines, Sire de Coucy, &c., who
lived at the court of his cousin-german, Alexander III., in Scotland, where
he married, before 1285, Christine de Baliol. He died 1321.
William, his son and heir, married Isabel, daughter of Guy de Chatillon,
Comte de St. Pol. He died 1335, and was succeeded by Enguerrand VI.,
who married Catherine, daughter of Leopold, Duke of Austria. This baron
took part in the defence of his province against Edward III., and fell at the
battle of Crécy, in 1346, leaving his son an infant.
Enguerrand VII., better known in England as Ingelram de Coucy, was
one of the greatest and most powerful barons of his race and age, and, in a
warlike age, celebrated as a military leader. He commenced his public life
by a war of extermination against the insurgent Jacquerie. He was then one
ill grace to the government of Queen Blanche during the minority of St.
Louis, and is said to have even contemplated regal power. However this
may be, the consciousness of his influence, no doubt, led him to erect the
Castle of Coucy, it is thought, between 1225–1230; and it maybe that in so
doing he proposed to himself to cast into the shade the grand tower of the
Louvre, the work, a few years before, of Philip Augustus. He is also said to
have rebuilt his other castles of St. Gobain, Assis, Marle, Folembrai, and St.
Aubyn, and the Hôtel Coucy at Paris.
In 1244, he was in the confidence of St. Louis, and attended a conference
of nobles at Chinon, where he supported the plan of a descent upon
England; but while assembling his vassals for this purpose he was flung
from his horse and killed by his own sword. Of his children by Marie de
Montmirail, Raoul II., who fell in the crusade of 1250, and Enguerrand IV.,
became successively Sieurs de Coucy; but both died childless, and with the
last closed the male line of these great barons. Alix, half-sister to the last
lords, married Arnoul, Count de Guines. Enguerrand the Great had also a
daughter, Mary, who in 1239 became the second wife of Alexander II. of
Scotland, and the mother of Alexander III. Mary was a very remarkable
person, and exercised the duties of guardian to her son in difficult times in a
very efficient manner, devising and executing a vigorous policy of her own.
Arnold Comte de Guines sold Guines to Philip le Hardi in 1282. Alix de
Coucy, his wife, was daughter of Enguerrand III. by Marie Dame d’Oisy,
his third wife. They had Enguerrand V. de Guines, Sire de Coucy, &c., who
lived at the court of his cousin-german, Alexander III., in Scotland, where
he married, before 1285, Christine de Baliol. He died 1321.
William, his son and heir, married Isabel, daughter of Guy de Chatillon,
Comte de St. Pol. He died 1335, and was succeeded by Enguerrand VI.,
who married Catherine, daughter of Leopold, Duke of Austria. This baron
took part in the defence of his province against Edward III., and fell at the
battle of Crécy, in 1346, leaving his son an infant.
Enguerrand VII., better known in England as Ingelram de Coucy, was
one of the greatest and most powerful barons of his race and age, and, in a
warlike age, celebrated as a military leader. He commenced his public life
by a war of extermination against the insurgent Jacquerie. He was then one
Page 593
of the hostages in England for King John, and there married Isabel,
daughter of Edward III., became a Knight of the Garter (39th on the list),
and in 1366 was created Earl of Bedford. The effect, perhaps the price, of
these honours was his neutrality in the war between France and England.
He claimed the duchy of Austria, and raised 60,000 condottieri to support
his rights, but in this he was unsuccessful.
After the death of Edward III. he returned the insignia of the Garter to his
successor, and took part with France. Upon Du Guesclin’s death, he was
offered, and declined, the sword of Constable of France, but became
governor of Picardy. His advice to the king was to anticipate the English
attacks.
His second wife was a daughter of the Duke of Lorraine. In 1382, he
composed, by fair words, the insurrection of the Maillotins, at Paris. In
Picardy he was scarcely less lenient. Doutard, one of their leaders, he
sentenced to death, but at the gallow’s foot he was pardoned, by the custom
of Picardy, because a woman from the crowd consented to marry him,—a
singular legal juxtaposition of hanging and matrimony. Enguerrand took
part in the campaign of Charles VI. against Ghent, in which Van Artevelde
was killed; and in the following year, after putting down an insurrection at
Paris, he joined the war in Flanders, where he won the high approbation of
Froissart.
He then went to Italy, and fought at the battle of Arezzo, for which he
received the charge of Grand Butler of France. Shortly afterwards, he was
prominent in the military and naval preparations for a descent upon
England, and seems to have commanded a division of the fleet, and to have
been driven upon the coast of Scotland.
In 1390 he took part in the African expedition, landing at Carthage. The
closing act of his life was the unsuccessful crusade against Sultan Bajazet,
upon his invasion of Hungary, and the battle of Nicopolis in 1396, when
Enguerrand was defeated and made prisoner, and so died in 1397, aged 57,
the last male of the second line of the Sires of Coucy.
Upon his death, Louis Duke of Orleans obtained possession of the Coucy
estates, under cover of a purchase from the heir female. Upon the death of
Louis, in 1465, Duke Charles succeeded, and upon his accession to the
throne of France as Louis XII., in 1498, Coucy became Crown property,
daughter of Edward III., became a Knight of the Garter (39th on the list),
and in 1366 was created Earl of Bedford. The effect, perhaps the price, of
these honours was his neutrality in the war between France and England.
He claimed the duchy of Austria, and raised 60,000 condottieri to support
his rights, but in this he was unsuccessful.
After the death of Edward III. he returned the insignia of the Garter to his
successor, and took part with France. Upon Du Guesclin’s death, he was
offered, and declined, the sword of Constable of France, but became
governor of Picardy. His advice to the king was to anticipate the English
attacks.
His second wife was a daughter of the Duke of Lorraine. In 1382, he
composed, by fair words, the insurrection of the Maillotins, at Paris. In
Picardy he was scarcely less lenient. Doutard, one of their leaders, he
sentenced to death, but at the gallow’s foot he was pardoned, by the custom
of Picardy, because a woman from the crowd consented to marry him,—a
singular legal juxtaposition of hanging and matrimony. Enguerrand took
part in the campaign of Charles VI. against Ghent, in which Van Artevelde
was killed; and in the following year, after putting down an insurrection at
Paris, he joined the war in Flanders, where he won the high approbation of
Froissart.
He then went to Italy, and fought at the battle of Arezzo, for which he
received the charge of Grand Butler of France. Shortly afterwards, he was
prominent in the military and naval preparations for a descent upon
England, and seems to have commanded a division of the fleet, and to have
been driven upon the coast of Scotland.
In 1390 he took part in the African expedition, landing at Carthage. The
closing act of his life was the unsuccessful crusade against Sultan Bajazet,
upon his invasion of Hungary, and the battle of Nicopolis in 1396, when
Enguerrand was defeated and made prisoner, and so died in 1397, aged 57,
the last male of the second line of the Sires of Coucy.
Upon his death, Louis Duke of Orleans obtained possession of the Coucy
estates, under cover of a purchase from the heir female. Upon the death of
Louis, in 1465, Duke Charles succeeded, and upon his accession to the
throne of France as Louis XII., in 1498, Coucy became Crown property,
Page 594
and ceased to retain any individuality, or to be the seat of an independent
family. As an appanage of the Crown it was granted to the successive
families of Orleans, and was thus held by Égalité at the Revolution. It is at
present a part of the State domains, and in consequence received a share of
the consideration with which the late Emperor regarded all public
monuments, and has been most judiciously preserved from further decay by
M. Viollet-le-Duc, from whose survey the annexed plan has been made.
The castle occupies the north-western extremity of the platform, of which
the remainder is occupied by the town. Upon three sides the natural defence
is the steep hill-side, the upper 30 feet or 40 feet of which are rendered
vertical by art, and faced with masonry. The (wholly artificial) defences of
the town on the south front are a deep ditch, extending from cliff to cliff,
and dividing the town from the castle, within which is a curtain wall,
flanked at its ends by two round towers containing vaulted chambers, and
with a central gatehouse, also so flanked.
The castle is composed of a keep, an inner, and an outer ward. The outer,
about thrice the area of the inner ward, intervenes between the inner ward
and the town. Its narrow south front has been described. Towards the north-
east the hill is very steep, and the revetment wall on this face is not
reinforced by buttresses or flanking towers. On the opposite face the ground
is far less steep, and the platform projects in a bold salient towards the
south-west, the revetment of which is strengthened by eight mural towers or
bastions, some half-round and the others rectangular. The south wall is
lofty, the others were probably mere parapets. The great gatehouse, or
“Porte de Maître Odon,” is now much broken down. The portal arch was
pointed, as are two lateral arches for the guard. The square groove of one
portcullis remains. The gatehouse seems to have been of the usual
rectangular plan, having a central portal arch and passage, and two exterior
half-round flanking towers. In this outward ward are to be traced very
considerable foundations, and here are found fragments of piers and arch
stones, and carved blocks, showing that the buildings erected as stables and
barracks for the castellan, and probably, in times of peace, for the lord, were
very considerable, and of a handsome character. Here also are the
foundations of a church, recently cleared out. They show a single nave, with
a semicircular apse, and a transept, the two arms of which have, on their
eastern sides, two smaller apses, the three ranging nearly in a line. The
family. As an appanage of the Crown it was granted to the successive
families of Orleans, and was thus held by Égalité at the Revolution. It is at
present a part of the State domains, and in consequence received a share of
the consideration with which the late Emperor regarded all public
monuments, and has been most judiciously preserved from further decay by
M. Viollet-le-Duc, from whose survey the annexed plan has been made.
The castle occupies the north-western extremity of the platform, of which
the remainder is occupied by the town. Upon three sides the natural defence
is the steep hill-side, the upper 30 feet or 40 feet of which are rendered
vertical by art, and faced with masonry. The (wholly artificial) defences of
the town on the south front are a deep ditch, extending from cliff to cliff,
and dividing the town from the castle, within which is a curtain wall,
flanked at its ends by two round towers containing vaulted chambers, and
with a central gatehouse, also so flanked.
The castle is composed of a keep, an inner, and an outer ward. The outer,
about thrice the area of the inner ward, intervenes between the inner ward
and the town. Its narrow south front has been described. Towards the north-
east the hill is very steep, and the revetment wall on this face is not
reinforced by buttresses or flanking towers. On the opposite face the ground
is far less steep, and the platform projects in a bold salient towards the
south-west, the revetment of which is strengthened by eight mural towers or
bastions, some half-round and the others rectangular. The south wall is
lofty, the others were probably mere parapets. The great gatehouse, or
“Porte de Maître Odon,” is now much broken down. The portal arch was
pointed, as are two lateral arches for the guard. The square groove of one
portcullis remains. The gatehouse seems to have been of the usual
rectangular plan, having a central portal arch and passage, and two exterior
half-round flanking towers. In this outward ward are to be traced very
considerable foundations, and here are found fragments of piers and arch
stones, and carved blocks, showing that the buildings erected as stables and
barracks for the castellan, and probably, in times of peace, for the lord, were
very considerable, and of a handsome character. Here also are the
foundations of a church, recently cleared out. They show a single nave, with
a semicircular apse, and a transept, the two arms of which have, on their
eastern sides, two smaller apses, the three ranging nearly in a line. The
Page 595
building is about 100 feet long by 30 feet broad; has a double west door,
and five windows of a side, besides three in the apse and three in each limb
of the transept. From its plan and proportions this church has been regarded
as part of the original castle, and the only part now remaining. Its actual
date is, however, probably of the eleventh century.
The inner or north end of this ward abuts upon the inner ward. This front
is occupied by a broad and deep dry ditch, concave towards the outer ward,
having a walled scarp and counterscarp, and crossed at each end by the
exterior enceinte wall of the place.
and five windows of a side, besides three in the apse and three in each limb
of the transept. From its plan and proportions this church has been regarded
as part of the original castle, and the only part now remaining. Its actual
date is, however, probably of the eleventh century.
The inner or north end of this ward abuts upon the inner ward. This front
is occupied by a broad and deep dry ditch, concave towards the outer ward,
having a walled scarp and counterscarp, and crossed at each end by the
exterior enceinte wall of the place.
Page 596
A. Inner Ward. D. Ditch and
B. Ditch. Chemise.
C. Tower. E. Cellars, Hall,
and Chapel.
F. Entrance.
G. Outer Ward.
H. Old Chapel.
COUCY CASTLE, FRANCE.—Plan.
B. Ditch. Chemise.
C. Tower. E. Cellars, Hall,
and Chapel.
F. Entrance.
G. Outer Ward.
H. Old Chapel.
COUCY CASTLE, FRANCE.—Plan.
Page 597
The inner ward, or castle proper, is four-sided. The east face, of 130
yards, and north face, of 60 yards, are both straight, and set at right angles.
The east front, of 70 yards, is set at an obtuse angle to the north, but is also
straight. Thus breadth is given to the south front, which is 130 yards. This
front is also straight, but about five-sevenths of its central part is occupied
by the convexity of the great tower and its chemise, which are placed upon
the line of the curtain.
The east, west, and north fronts are towards the field, and are formed by
facing the scarped rock with masonry, so that they stand 30 feet to 40 feet
high to the level of the terre-plein, above which rises the curtain-wall. The
south front is covered by the ditch already described, which is segmental in
plan, with vertical sides. Near its east end this ditch is expanded from 60
feet to 90 feet, and was there traversed by a long drawbridge, which rested
upon three detached rectangular piers, of which the inner one was the
largest, and contained two lateral places of arms, and no doubt carried a
tower. This bridge led up to the main gate. It is now replaced by a
causeway.
At the four angles of the ward are four equal drum towers, 60 feet in
diameter, and 105 feet high from the exterior base. They are remarkable for
their size and boldness, being engaged only by one-fifth of their
circumference. These towers rise from the rock, and contain two domed
stages below the terre-plein level. These are entered by a circular hole or
eye in the centre of each vault. The terre-plein level of each is a hexagonal
chamber, vaulted, having five recesses, of which four are pierced as loops.
The entrance is in the gorge, with two lateral passages, one leading to a
garderobe and one to a well-stair, ascending to the summit.
The chamber above is similar, but the loops are placed between instead of
over those below; and thus the towers have been preserved from those
vertical fissures so common when a series of loops or windows occur, as
they usually do, in one vertical line. By this arrangement, also, the scope of
the archers defending the tower is much increased, every point within arrow
range being exposed to fire. There are three floors above the ground-level,
or five in all. All are vaulted. A line of corbels at the present summit shows
that they were originally defended by a bretasche.
yards, and north face, of 60 yards, are both straight, and set at right angles.
The east front, of 70 yards, is set at an obtuse angle to the north, but is also
straight. Thus breadth is given to the south front, which is 130 yards. This
front is also straight, but about five-sevenths of its central part is occupied
by the convexity of the great tower and its chemise, which are placed upon
the line of the curtain.
The east, west, and north fronts are towards the field, and are formed by
facing the scarped rock with masonry, so that they stand 30 feet to 40 feet
high to the level of the terre-plein, above which rises the curtain-wall. The
south front is covered by the ditch already described, which is segmental in
plan, with vertical sides. Near its east end this ditch is expanded from 60
feet to 90 feet, and was there traversed by a long drawbridge, which rested
upon three detached rectangular piers, of which the inner one was the
largest, and contained two lateral places of arms, and no doubt carried a
tower. This bridge led up to the main gate. It is now replaced by a
causeway.
At the four angles of the ward are four equal drum towers, 60 feet in
diameter, and 105 feet high from the exterior base. They are remarkable for
their size and boldness, being engaged only by one-fifth of their
circumference. These towers rise from the rock, and contain two domed
stages below the terre-plein level. These are entered by a circular hole or
eye in the centre of each vault. The terre-plein level of each is a hexagonal
chamber, vaulted, having five recesses, of which four are pierced as loops.
The entrance is in the gorge, with two lateral passages, one leading to a
garderobe and one to a well-stair, ascending to the summit.
The chamber above is similar, but the loops are placed between instead of
over those below; and thus the towers have been preserved from those
vertical fissures so common when a series of loops or windows occur, as
they usually do, in one vertical line. By this arrangement, also, the scope of
the archers defending the tower is much increased, every point within arrow
range being exposed to fire. There are three floors above the ground-level,
or five in all. All are vaulted. A line of corbels at the present summit shows
that they were originally defended by a bretasche.
Page 598
Nearly in the centre of the east face was a small half-round bastion with
flat sides, 30 feet in diameter and about 20 feet projection.
Standing in the court, no part of the curtain is visible. Along the central
180 feet of the east front is a range of buildings, called offices, about 30 feet
deep, and having three well-staircases, serving the first and second floor,
now destroyed. At the south end the space between the curtain and the
tower chemise, about 60 feet by 80 feet, is occupied by three aisles of
vaulting, each of three bays. The centre of these is the main entrance, or
continued portal arch. The lateral bays are for warders and soldiery in
charge of the gate. There were two stories above this, now destroyed.
Along the north front was originally a vaulted arcade, 45 feet broad,
composed of four bays. To this has been added, in front, an arcade of three
arches, open towards the court, and upon the platform thus gained have
been constructed a terrace and a range of state rooms, of which the principal
is the ladies’ hall, or Salle des Preuses, so named from the medallions of
nine celebrated women which adorned the great chimney piece. In the
exterior was a sort of oriel boudoir, and large windows towards the field.
Above this was another story, to construct which the curtain was raised.
These buildings were the addition of the Duke of Orleans. A large well-
stair, also an addition, led from the court to these apartments.
The west side also has a high curtain, against which is constructed a
magnificent chamber, 45 feet broad by 470 feet long, down the centre of
which stands a line of ten columns, dividing the space into eleven vaulted
and groined bays, of which the northern pair are cut off as a private cellar.
On the east side of this chamber are four doors, two near the centre opening
into the crypt of the chapel, one south of this, probably the main entrance,
and one near the south end, opening into what appear to have been the
kitchens, and which lie between this splendid range of magazines and the
great tower. Connected with the kitchens are three courts, and a staircase
descending to the cellars.
Below the chamber is another of equal size excavated in the chalk, as a
cellar, probably about the finest and most spacious ever constructed.
Above, on the first floor, or third stage, was the great hall of the castle,
called, from its nine effigies of heroes, La Salle des Preux. It had a wooden
roof, two large fireplaces, and a large window at the south end, below
flat sides, 30 feet in diameter and about 20 feet projection.
Standing in the court, no part of the curtain is visible. Along the central
180 feet of the east front is a range of buildings, called offices, about 30 feet
deep, and having three well-staircases, serving the first and second floor,
now destroyed. At the south end the space between the curtain and the
tower chemise, about 60 feet by 80 feet, is occupied by three aisles of
vaulting, each of three bays. The centre of these is the main entrance, or
continued portal arch. The lateral bays are for warders and soldiery in
charge of the gate. There were two stories above this, now destroyed.
Along the north front was originally a vaulted arcade, 45 feet broad,
composed of four bays. To this has been added, in front, an arcade of three
arches, open towards the court, and upon the platform thus gained have
been constructed a terrace and a range of state rooms, of which the principal
is the ladies’ hall, or Salle des Preuses, so named from the medallions of
nine celebrated women which adorned the great chimney piece. In the
exterior was a sort of oriel boudoir, and large windows towards the field.
Above this was another story, to construct which the curtain was raised.
These buildings were the addition of the Duke of Orleans. A large well-
stair, also an addition, led from the court to these apartments.
The west side also has a high curtain, against which is constructed a
magnificent chamber, 45 feet broad by 470 feet long, down the centre of
which stands a line of ten columns, dividing the space into eleven vaulted
and groined bays, of which the northern pair are cut off as a private cellar.
On the east side of this chamber are four doors, two near the centre opening
into the crypt of the chapel, one south of this, probably the main entrance,
and one near the south end, opening into what appear to have been the
kitchens, and which lie between this splendid range of magazines and the
great tower. Connected with the kitchens are three courts, and a staircase
descending to the cellars.
Below the chamber is another of equal size excavated in the chalk, as a
cellar, probably about the finest and most spacious ever constructed.
Above, on the first floor, or third stage, was the great hall of the castle,
called, from its nine effigies of heroes, La Salle des Preux. It had a wooden
roof, two large fireplaces, and a large window at the south end, below
Page 599
which a small door opened upon a light wooden bridge, which dropped
upon the curtain of the outer ward, just above the postern.
The chapel was a rectangular building, 60 feet east and west, by 36 feet
north and south. It projected from the hall into the court. It was composed
of two parallel aisles, vaulted, each in four bays. Its south-east angle was
engaged with the chemise of the great tower. Its south-west angle was free,
and had two buttresses set on at right angles. This chapel is now destroyed
to its foundations. It opened from the great hall.
The keep, or great tower, is the boast of Coucy, and deservedly so, being
one of the finest towers in the world, and no doubt the largest and most
complete single military building.
It is a plain tower, perfectly cylindrical, of excellent ashlar workmanship,
100 feet diameter at base and summit, and 200 feet high. It rises out of a
paved moat, the base being about 12 feet below the level of the terre-plein,
and is entered by a drawbridge from the level, all below being solid.
Including the basement, the tower contains three stories. The ground
floor, on the level of the terre-plein, is entered by a drawbridge laid across
the ditch, and which, when raised, covered a small square-headed portal,
under a pointed arch, the entrance to a passage directly piercing the wall.
The passage has an interior machicolation and a portcullis, both worked
from a small chamber in the wall above, which also received the chains of
the bridge. Within the portcullis was a stout door barred within, and, on the
left and right, passages, one to a mural garderobe with an exterior loop, the
other leading to a well-stair, which served the upper rooms and led to the
ramparts.
The entrance passage leads direct into a duodecagonal chamber of about
60 feet diameter, having a recess in each floor for stores, one occupied by
the entrance, one by a large well, now about 90 feet deep and formerly 200
feet, and one by a chimney.
Each pier is faced by a column, from which springs a rib, the twelve
meeting in the centre at an eye, and supporting the vault. Each vaulting cell
has a pointed gable, of which two are pierced for light.
The first floor is of the same figure and diameter, and vaulted in a similar
manner. One of its recesses is closed by a fireplace with an oven behind it;
upon the curtain of the outer ward, just above the postern.
The chapel was a rectangular building, 60 feet east and west, by 36 feet
north and south. It projected from the hall into the court. It was composed
of two parallel aisles, vaulted, each in four bays. Its south-east angle was
engaged with the chemise of the great tower. Its south-west angle was free,
and had two buttresses set on at right angles. This chapel is now destroyed
to its foundations. It opened from the great hall.
The keep, or great tower, is the boast of Coucy, and deservedly so, being
one of the finest towers in the world, and no doubt the largest and most
complete single military building.
It is a plain tower, perfectly cylindrical, of excellent ashlar workmanship,
100 feet diameter at base and summit, and 200 feet high. It rises out of a
paved moat, the base being about 12 feet below the level of the terre-plein,
and is entered by a drawbridge from the level, all below being solid.
Including the basement, the tower contains three stories. The ground
floor, on the level of the terre-plein, is entered by a drawbridge laid across
the ditch, and which, when raised, covered a small square-headed portal,
under a pointed arch, the entrance to a passage directly piercing the wall.
The passage has an interior machicolation and a portcullis, both worked
from a small chamber in the wall above, which also received the chains of
the bridge. Within the portcullis was a stout door barred within, and, on the
left and right, passages, one to a mural garderobe with an exterior loop, the
other leading to a well-stair, which served the upper rooms and led to the
ramparts.
The entrance passage leads direct into a duodecagonal chamber of about
60 feet diameter, having a recess in each floor for stores, one occupied by
the entrance, one by a large well, now about 90 feet deep and formerly 200
feet, and one by a chimney.
Each pier is faced by a column, from which springs a rib, the twelve
meeting in the centre at an eye, and supporting the vault. Each vaulting cell
has a pointed gable, of which two are pierced for light.
The first floor is of the same figure and diameter, and vaulted in a similar
manner. One of its recesses is closed by a fireplace with an oven behind it;
Page 600
one gives passage to a very narrow postern, the plank bridge from which
drops upon the rampart of the chemise wall, and three are pierced by small
windows. One of these window recesses is entered laterally by a small
passage from the adjacent recess. This is of fifteenth-century work, made
when the recess was walled up to serve as a separate chamber. Another
recess has also a lateral passage, entering a small mural garderobe, looped
from the outside. In one recess are two windows, one above the other.
The second floor, resembling the other in plan and diameter at its floor
level, has a different arrangement at a height of 12 feet. Here the piers
cease, and behind, between them and the outer shell of wall, is a gallery,
entered by the regular well-stair, but each of the eleven other compartments
of which forms a box like that of a theatre, looking down upon the central
pit or floor. Two of these boxes are occupied by the detached flues of the
two chimneys from below, and two are lighted by windows, which, with the
central eye, form the whole and very insufficient light. In this chamber, the
next below the battlements, the commander could collect and address a very
numerous garrison.
The third floor, that of the ramparts, and open above, is contained within
a thick and lofty parapet wall about 10 feet high, and pierced by twenty-
four lancet arches and as many intermediate loops. Above these the wall is
surmounted by a grand coping, which overhangs both ways about thrice the
thickness of the wall, and then slopes upwards into a ridge. It was upon this
ridge that were laid the roofing rafters of the bretasche gallery, which
enclosed the wall inside and outside. The former was merely as a
counterpoise. The latter was of two stories, and rested its main struts upon a
line of forty-eight grand corbels, which remain on the exterior face of the
wall at the rampart level. The flues appeared above the roof, and three large
and highly-crocketed pinnacles were placed astride on the crest of the wall.
The stone vault of the upper chamber was covered with lead, with
occasional gutter openings outwards.
Nothing can be grander than the conception of this tower, nothing more
complete than the execution of its details. All is gigantesque, as though for a
race above the ordinary stature of man, and the walls within were overlaid
with a fine cement, and painted with care. The design of the sculpture is
bold and masculine, as becomes a military building; but all is in excellent
taste, and admirably executed.
drops upon the rampart of the chemise wall, and three are pierced by small
windows. One of these window recesses is entered laterally by a small
passage from the adjacent recess. This is of fifteenth-century work, made
when the recess was walled up to serve as a separate chamber. Another
recess has also a lateral passage, entering a small mural garderobe, looped
from the outside. In one recess are two windows, one above the other.
The second floor, resembling the other in plan and diameter at its floor
level, has a different arrangement at a height of 12 feet. Here the piers
cease, and behind, between them and the outer shell of wall, is a gallery,
entered by the regular well-stair, but each of the eleven other compartments
of which forms a box like that of a theatre, looking down upon the central
pit or floor. Two of these boxes are occupied by the detached flues of the
two chimneys from below, and two are lighted by windows, which, with the
central eye, form the whole and very insufficient light. In this chamber, the
next below the battlements, the commander could collect and address a very
numerous garrison.
The third floor, that of the ramparts, and open above, is contained within
a thick and lofty parapet wall about 10 feet high, and pierced by twenty-
four lancet arches and as many intermediate loops. Above these the wall is
surmounted by a grand coping, which overhangs both ways about thrice the
thickness of the wall, and then slopes upwards into a ridge. It was upon this
ridge that were laid the roofing rafters of the bretasche gallery, which
enclosed the wall inside and outside. The former was merely as a
counterpoise. The latter was of two stories, and rested its main struts upon a
line of forty-eight grand corbels, which remain on the exterior face of the
wall at the rampart level. The flues appeared above the roof, and three large
and highly-crocketed pinnacles were placed astride on the crest of the wall.
The stone vault of the upper chamber was covered with lead, with
occasional gutter openings outwards.
Nothing can be grander than the conception of this tower, nothing more
complete than the execution of its details. All is gigantesque, as though for a
race above the ordinary stature of man, and the walls within were overlaid
with a fine cement, and painted with care. The design of the sculpture is
bold and masculine, as becomes a military building; but all is in excellent
taste, and admirably executed.
Page 601
The walls of the keep are tied with chain-courses of timber, laid in
mortar, in the centre of the work, as was the custom in France in the twelfth
and thirteenth centuries. The timber is exposed below some of the loops. In
the upper floors were embedded radiating ties, also of wood.
Two lines of square putlog-holes are seen on the exterior of the keep.
They ascend in a spiral, or a right-handed screw, and indicate the manner in
which the building was constructed. Horizontal beams, projecting from the
upper row, carried the inclined plane or roadway up which the materials
were dragged, and these were supported by struts, the feet of which rested
in the lower row.
There remains to be described only the chemise, or work designed to
cover the base of the keep from the operations of the miner. It has been seen
that the base of the keep was solid, and that it stood in a paved fosse, about
20 feet broad, with vertical sides. The exterior side, or counterscarp, of this
fosse was a wall, about 8 feet thick, which divided it from the main exterior
ditch of the ward, and rose to the level of the first floor of the keep, say 30
feet. The ordinary ascent to its rampart walk was by a stair within the wall,
commencing on the right near the keep entrance. It was also reached from
the first floor of the keep by a slight bridge, such as was employed at
Rochester, and probably in one or two places in the Tower of London.
There was also an access from the other end of the wall, from the rooms
over the great gateway.
Outside of and at the base of the salient half of this wall was built against
it, at the level of the bottom of the exterior ditch, a covered way or gallery,
intended to act as a countermine, and still more completely to frustrate
attempts against the keep. The gallery is entered from either end, and in its
centre rises a sort of buttress against the wall, in which was contained a
wooden stair, by which the people on the rampart could communicate with
those in the gallery. In the gallery also was a well, for the use of the
kitchens, and in the substance of the wall a garderobe.
From the bottom of the keep ditch issued a postern, defended by gate,
portcullis, and machicolation, the two latter connected with a small
chamber in the wall; from this a wooden bridge led, in the ditch, to a
postern in the west and outer wall of the outer ward.
mortar, in the centre of the work, as was the custom in France in the twelfth
and thirteenth centuries. The timber is exposed below some of the loops. In
the upper floors were embedded radiating ties, also of wood.
Two lines of square putlog-holes are seen on the exterior of the keep.
They ascend in a spiral, or a right-handed screw, and indicate the manner in
which the building was constructed. Horizontal beams, projecting from the
upper row, carried the inclined plane or roadway up which the materials
were dragged, and these were supported by struts, the feet of which rested
in the lower row.
There remains to be described only the chemise, or work designed to
cover the base of the keep from the operations of the miner. It has been seen
that the base of the keep was solid, and that it stood in a paved fosse, about
20 feet broad, with vertical sides. The exterior side, or counterscarp, of this
fosse was a wall, about 8 feet thick, which divided it from the main exterior
ditch of the ward, and rose to the level of the first floor of the keep, say 30
feet. The ordinary ascent to its rampart walk was by a stair within the wall,
commencing on the right near the keep entrance. It was also reached from
the first floor of the keep by a slight bridge, such as was employed at
Rochester, and probably in one or two places in the Tower of London.
There was also an access from the other end of the wall, from the rooms
over the great gateway.
Outside of and at the base of the salient half of this wall was built against
it, at the level of the bottom of the exterior ditch, a covered way or gallery,
intended to act as a countermine, and still more completely to frustrate
attempts against the keep. The gallery is entered from either end, and in its
centre rises a sort of buttress against the wall, in which was contained a
wooden stair, by which the people on the rampart could communicate with
those in the gallery. In the gallery also was a well, for the use of the
kitchens, and in the substance of the wall a garderobe.
From the bottom of the keep ditch issued a postern, defended by gate,
portcullis, and machicolation, the two latter connected with a small
chamber in the wall; from this a wooden bridge led, in the ditch, to a
postern in the west and outer wall of the outer ward.
Page 602
The castle and town, being of one date and from one design, may be
regarded as representing a thirteenth-century fortress of the first class, and
of the strongest character, in which the internal arrangements, though
palatial, were made completely subordinate to the military character and
security of the place. The great feature of the castle is the keep, which
commands the whole, in every part, and from its size and strength could be
held with confidence after all the other defences had been taken.
The additions of the fifteenth century, consisting of state-rooms, a hall,
and various upper stories, intended for the state and attendants of a court,
though not extending to the keep, in some degree injure the military
character of the place, and take off from the predominating grandeur of that
great central feature. These, however, have for the most part fallen away,
and what remains is chiefly original work, so that the appearance of the
keep and inner ward is in many respects as they were designed by the great
baron, who contemned any title less than king, and was content with the
severe simplicity of that of “Sire de Coucy.”
The castle in 1652 fell into the hands of Mazarin, who employed
Metezeau, son of him who threw up the famous dyke at Rochelle, to render
it indefensible. The engineer blew the chemise wall outwards into the ditch,
and exploded a heavy charge of powder in each of the towers. The effect of
this upon the keep was to clear out the vaulted stages, and to leave the
cylinder like the tube of a vast cannon. Thus, with one or two vertical
fissures, it stood till our day; but now these have been closed with great care
and judgment, and the cylinder has been hooped with iron, in a manner that
is scarcely to be observed, and will preserve it indefinitely.
Those who wish to understand the details of this most curious place, and
to acquire a complete and comprehensive view of it as a military work,
would do well to read the masterly exposition of M. Le Duc, sold upon the
spot, and given also in his “Dictionnaire,” under the articles of “Château”
and “Donjon.”
The town is also worth a visit. It contains a good church, and its southern
gatehouse is a very massive structure. The portal is very narrow, about 9
feet, acutely pointed, and it opens between two drum towers of one-third
projection, and of about 100 feet diameter and 60 feet high. The short
curtain between them, occupied below by the gateway, above is convex in
regarded as representing a thirteenth-century fortress of the first class, and
of the strongest character, in which the internal arrangements, though
palatial, were made completely subordinate to the military character and
security of the place. The great feature of the castle is the keep, which
commands the whole, in every part, and from its size and strength could be
held with confidence after all the other defences had been taken.
The additions of the fifteenth century, consisting of state-rooms, a hall,
and various upper stories, intended for the state and attendants of a court,
though not extending to the keep, in some degree injure the military
character of the place, and take off from the predominating grandeur of that
great central feature. These, however, have for the most part fallen away,
and what remains is chiefly original work, so that the appearance of the
keep and inner ward is in many respects as they were designed by the great
baron, who contemned any title less than king, and was content with the
severe simplicity of that of “Sire de Coucy.”
The castle in 1652 fell into the hands of Mazarin, who employed
Metezeau, son of him who threw up the famous dyke at Rochelle, to render
it indefensible. The engineer blew the chemise wall outwards into the ditch,
and exploded a heavy charge of powder in each of the towers. The effect of
this upon the keep was to clear out the vaulted stages, and to leave the
cylinder like the tube of a vast cannon. Thus, with one or two vertical
fissures, it stood till our day; but now these have been closed with great care
and judgment, and the cylinder has been hooped with iron, in a manner that
is scarcely to be observed, and will preserve it indefinitely.
Those who wish to understand the details of this most curious place, and
to acquire a complete and comprehensive view of it as a military work,
would do well to read the masterly exposition of M. Le Duc, sold upon the
spot, and given also in his “Dictionnaire,” under the articles of “Château”
and “Donjon.”
The town is also worth a visit. It contains a good church, and its southern
gatehouse is a very massive structure. The portal is very narrow, about 9
feet, acutely pointed, and it opens between two drum towers of one-third
projection, and of about 100 feet diameter and 60 feet high. The short
curtain between them, occupied below by the gateway, above is convex in
Page 603
plan, and supports two bold brackets, upon which lies a stout beam, a part
of the original bretasche, and a rare, if not a solitary, instance of a part of
such a structure remaining in place.
The drawbridge is replaced by a causeway, but at the base of the gateway
are two large square holes, nearly where the axle of the bridge would rest,
but closely resembling drains, which they can scarcely be. There are no
marks of external defences, save the bretasche. Probably the bridge, when
up, acted as a gate. Within the passage, on each side, is a large lateral loop,
then two portcullises, and between them a large machicolation. Within the
second grate is a gate, and within this the passage is vaulted for about 16
feet. Then follows an open space, of which the roof was of timber, and then
a vault. The inner end of the passage is injured, and repaired. Above, over
the portal, is a fireplace of enormous size.
This gatehouse is placed in the middle of the curtain which covers the
very narrow south-east front of the town. On each side of the gate-towers is
a curtain of about 100 feet long, and beyond this a pair of drum mural
towers, of half projection. The loops of these towers, like every detail in
Coucy, are on a grand scale. Though mere slots, they are 10 feet high, and
in three tiers. In front of the wall is a fosse of unusual breadth, wholly
artificial, and which, like that of the castle, is dug across the peninsula, from
one lateral valley to the other.
of the original bretasche, and a rare, if not a solitary, instance of a part of
such a structure remaining in place.
The drawbridge is replaced by a causeway, but at the base of the gateway
are two large square holes, nearly where the axle of the bridge would rest,
but closely resembling drains, which they can scarcely be. There are no
marks of external defences, save the bretasche. Probably the bridge, when
up, acted as a gate. Within the passage, on each side, is a large lateral loop,
then two portcullises, and between them a large machicolation. Within the
second grate is a gate, and within this the passage is vaulted for about 16
feet. Then follows an open space, of which the roof was of timber, and then
a vault. The inner end of the passage is injured, and repaired. Above, over
the portal, is a fireplace of enormous size.
This gatehouse is placed in the middle of the curtain which covers the
very narrow south-east front of the town. On each side of the gate-towers is
a curtain of about 100 feet long, and beyond this a pair of drum mural
towers, of half projection. The loops of these towers, like every detail in
Coucy, are on a grand scale. Though mere slots, they are 10 feet high, and
in three tiers. In front of the wall is a fosse of unusual breadth, wholly
artificial, and which, like that of the castle, is dug across the peninsula, from
one lateral valley to the other.
Page 604
COYTY CASTLE, GLAMORGAN.
THE lordship of Coyty is regarded by the Welsh as an Honour of high
antiquity, the estate and seat of a royal lineage, and the inheritance of one of
the sons of Jestyn, the last native lord of Morganwg. It is divided into the
lesser lordships of Coyty Anglia and Wallia, and it formed one of the
“members” of the county under the Norman lords. Being a member, and not
in the body of the shire, it is not included in the thirty-six and three-fifths
knights’ fees which paid military service to Cardiff Castle; but it was,
nevertheless, held under the lord of Glamorgan, and the castle, manor, and
members of Coyty appear accordingly in inquisitions of the Earls of
Gloucester and their successors in the reigns of Edward I., II., and III. In the
24th Henry VI., for some probably temporary reason, only the castle and a
fourth part of the manor are returned in the chief lord’s schedule.
Coyty was granted by Fitzhamon to Sir Pagan, or Payne de Turberville, a
knight, who probably held Bere-Turberville and other lands in Dorset, and
the manor and castle of Crickhowel in Monmouthshire. Unlike most of the
sites of the Norman castles in Glamorgan, Coyty was evidently an earlier
place of strength, and its circular and raised area, and its circumscribing
moat, much resemble the earthworks so common in England and upon the
Welsh marches, and usually attributed to the English of the eighth and ninth
centuries. Of this position Sir Pagan judiciously availed himself when he
received from Fitzhamon Coyty as his share of the spoil. Probably he found
some sort of strong house existing, which he and his immediate successors
found it convenient to occupy; for, though the extant masonry cannot be
attributed to his age, it is of a date too near to it to have allowed of the
decay of a substantial Norman structure. Sir Pagan is reputed to have
married Sybil, heiress of the old Welsh lords of Coyty, and thus to have
added a title respected by the natives to that acquired by his sword. Certain
it is that the Turbervilles much inclined to the Welsh side in the frequent
disputes between them and the over-lords.
Sir Pagan died, and was followed by his son, Sir Simon, who died
childless; and he by his brother, Sir Gilbert, who was father of a second Sir
THE lordship of Coyty is regarded by the Welsh as an Honour of high
antiquity, the estate and seat of a royal lineage, and the inheritance of one of
the sons of Jestyn, the last native lord of Morganwg. It is divided into the
lesser lordships of Coyty Anglia and Wallia, and it formed one of the
“members” of the county under the Norman lords. Being a member, and not
in the body of the shire, it is not included in the thirty-six and three-fifths
knights’ fees which paid military service to Cardiff Castle; but it was,
nevertheless, held under the lord of Glamorgan, and the castle, manor, and
members of Coyty appear accordingly in inquisitions of the Earls of
Gloucester and their successors in the reigns of Edward I., II., and III. In the
24th Henry VI., for some probably temporary reason, only the castle and a
fourth part of the manor are returned in the chief lord’s schedule.
Coyty was granted by Fitzhamon to Sir Pagan, or Payne de Turberville, a
knight, who probably held Bere-Turberville and other lands in Dorset, and
the manor and castle of Crickhowel in Monmouthshire. Unlike most of the
sites of the Norman castles in Glamorgan, Coyty was evidently an earlier
place of strength, and its circular and raised area, and its circumscribing
moat, much resemble the earthworks so common in England and upon the
Welsh marches, and usually attributed to the English of the eighth and ninth
centuries. Of this position Sir Pagan judiciously availed himself when he
received from Fitzhamon Coyty as his share of the spoil. Probably he found
some sort of strong house existing, which he and his immediate successors
found it convenient to occupy; for, though the extant masonry cannot be
attributed to his age, it is of a date too near to it to have allowed of the
decay of a substantial Norman structure. Sir Pagan is reputed to have
married Sybil, heiress of the old Welsh lords of Coyty, and thus to have
added a title respected by the natives to that acquired by his sword. Certain
it is that the Turbervilles much inclined to the Welsh side in the frequent
disputes between them and the over-lords.
Sir Pagan died, and was followed by his son, Sir Simon, who died
childless; and he by his brother, Sir Gilbert, who was father of a second Sir
Page 605
Pagan, who was father of a second Sir Gilbert, who married Maud, daughter
of Morgan Gam, lord of Avan, a descendant, and probably the
representative, of Jestyn. Gilbert, who was in possession in 1207, may well
have been the real constructor of the castle. This view is supported by the
evidence of the actual building, the oldest parts of which may be early
English, but certainly are not Norman.
The castle is composed of a circular enclosure or inner ward, about 48
yards in diameter; to the north-western side of which is appended a
rectangular court, 68 yards long by 43 yards broad, forming the outer ward,
and probably an addition. The whole castle is surrounded by a ditch, which
varies in breadth from 90 to 100 feet, and in depth from 20 feet to 60 feet. It
is far deeper and broader where it protects the circular than where it is
continued round the outer ward. It shallows towards the north-west, and at
that end is scarcely perceptible. It is probable that the original circular castle
was surrounded completely by the ditch, and that this was in part filled up
when the outer ward was added. This could be ascertained by probing the
ground.
The circular or inner ward is much higher, either naturally or artificially,
than the exterior ground. It is enclosed within a strong and lofty curtain-
wall, 8 feet thick, upon which are two gatehouses and a drum-tower, and
against it the hall, chapel, and other domestic buildings. The interior is an
open, irregular, but on the whole four-sided court, about 60 yards in the
side.
The principal gatehouse is to the east, and opens upon the churchyard,
which forms the counterscarp of the ditch. It is quadrangular, 20 feet broad
by 24 feet deep, of which 16 feet project beyond the curtain. A passage cut
through a low bank of earth thrown up outside the ditch led from the
churchyard towards the portal. A causeway now occupies the place of the
drawbridge, the chains for lifting which passed through two holes seen in
the spandrels of the gateway. The entrance is 6 feet broad, beneath a pointed
arch set in a square-headed recess, intended to house the bridge when lifted.
The first defence was a portcullis, the groove of which is large, and
intended for a wooden grate, and behind it was a door. The passage was
covered in by a plain vault. On the right is a well-stair ascending to the
roof; on the left, a sort of lodge, the two windows of which look into the
court. The inner archway has fallen, as has the vault.
of Morgan Gam, lord of Avan, a descendant, and probably the
representative, of Jestyn. Gilbert, who was in possession in 1207, may well
have been the real constructor of the castle. This view is supported by the
evidence of the actual building, the oldest parts of which may be early
English, but certainly are not Norman.
The castle is composed of a circular enclosure or inner ward, about 48
yards in diameter; to the north-western side of which is appended a
rectangular court, 68 yards long by 43 yards broad, forming the outer ward,
and probably an addition. The whole castle is surrounded by a ditch, which
varies in breadth from 90 to 100 feet, and in depth from 20 feet to 60 feet. It
is far deeper and broader where it protects the circular than where it is
continued round the outer ward. It shallows towards the north-west, and at
that end is scarcely perceptible. It is probable that the original circular castle
was surrounded completely by the ditch, and that this was in part filled up
when the outer ward was added. This could be ascertained by probing the
ground.
The circular or inner ward is much higher, either naturally or artificially,
than the exterior ground. It is enclosed within a strong and lofty curtain-
wall, 8 feet thick, upon which are two gatehouses and a drum-tower, and
against it the hall, chapel, and other domestic buildings. The interior is an
open, irregular, but on the whole four-sided court, about 60 yards in the
side.
The principal gatehouse is to the east, and opens upon the churchyard,
which forms the counterscarp of the ditch. It is quadrangular, 20 feet broad
by 24 feet deep, of which 16 feet project beyond the curtain. A passage cut
through a low bank of earth thrown up outside the ditch led from the
churchyard towards the portal. A causeway now occupies the place of the
drawbridge, the chains for lifting which passed through two holes seen in
the spandrels of the gateway. The entrance is 6 feet broad, beneath a pointed
arch set in a square-headed recess, intended to house the bridge when lifted.
The first defence was a portcullis, the groove of which is large, and
intended for a wooden grate, and behind it was a door. The passage was
covered in by a plain vault. On the right is a well-stair ascending to the
roof; on the left, a sort of lodge, the two windows of which look into the
court. The inner archway has fallen, as has the vault.
Page 606
The gatehouse had two upper floors, each 20 feet by 10 feet. The first,
the portcullis chamber, has a window at each end, and two in each side. In
the south wall is a fireplace. From this chamber a mural stair leads to the
rampart of the south curtain. That of the north curtain is reached from the
well-staircase. The second floor of the gatehouse has a window in each
face. The floor of this room and the roof were of timber, and are gone. The
gatehouse is probably of the reign of Richard II. The windows are Tudor
insertions.
Wyman & Sons. Gᵗ Queen Sᵗ London.
A. Inner Ward. C, C. Gatehouses. E. Round Tower.
B. Outer Ward. D. Keep. F. Hall.
COYTY CASTLE.—GROUND PLAN.
The northern gatehouse, that between the outer and inner wards, is
destroyed; but the foundations show a passage 9 feet broad by 33 feet deep,
which seems to have traversed a mass of buildings 84 feet broad by 30 feet
to 40 feet deep. Of this, the part to the west of the portal, was a nearly
rectangular building, 30 feet by 22 feet, having an entrance from the
passage, and in its south wall a mural staircase. East of the portal is a much
larger building still in part standing, and which seems to have been the
keep.
the portcullis chamber, has a window at each end, and two in each side. In
the south wall is a fireplace. From this chamber a mural stair leads to the
rampart of the south curtain. That of the north curtain is reached from the
well-staircase. The second floor of the gatehouse has a window in each
face. The floor of this room and the roof were of timber, and are gone. The
gatehouse is probably of the reign of Richard II. The windows are Tudor
insertions.
Wyman & Sons. Gᵗ Queen Sᵗ London.
A. Inner Ward. C, C. Gatehouses. E. Round Tower.
B. Outer Ward. D. Keep. F. Hall.
COYTY CASTLE.—GROUND PLAN.
The northern gatehouse, that between the outer and inner wards, is
destroyed; but the foundations show a passage 9 feet broad by 33 feet deep,
which seems to have traversed a mass of buildings 84 feet broad by 30 feet
to 40 feet deep. Of this, the part to the west of the portal, was a nearly
rectangular building, 30 feet by 22 feet, having an entrance from the
passage, and in its south wall a mural staircase. East of the portal is a much
larger building still in part standing, and which seems to have been the
keep.
Page 607
The keep is nearly rectangular, 37 feet by 40 feet, having at its eastern
end a projection into the ditch, 18 feet by 24 feet. This projection contained
in its basement a plain vault, 15 feet by 9 feet, with two loops; and a
culvert, probably a garderobe, has its vent below a recess in the north wall.
This recess was probably a prison. The basement of the keep is occupied by
a chamber, 28 feet by 22 feet, at the ground level, and vaulted in eight cells,
the ribs forming which spring to and from a central eight-sided pier. The
arches are pointed. There are two loops in this chamber, and three doors,—
one from the court, set in a square-headed recess; a second into the vaulted
accessory chamber; and a third to a postern opening into the ditch, and by a
mural stair to the chamber above.
The first floor also is composed of two chambers, both vaulted, and the
ribs of the large chamber spring from an octagonal pier resting upon that
below. There was a second, and a third story roofed with timber. The
fireplaces were in the north wall, and the windows in the north and east
walls, and of moderate size and Tudor pattern. This tower seems of early
Decorated date. A part of it has recently fallen.
The round tower is altogether a very curious and a very unusual
structure. It is placed on the south-west front of the inner ward. It is 18 feet
diameter, but projects into the ditch 22 feet, being connected with the
curtain by a neck of wall 14 feet broad. It is lofty, having a basement and
three upper floors. The basement is a huge vaulted receptacle for sewage,
with an outlet to the south. The two upper floors are alike in dimensions and
use, being 9 feet by 7 feet, and lighted by narrow loops, three on each floor.
They are vaulted, and contain garderobes, with shafts into the vault below.
The third story had a flat wooden roof, now gone. A well-stair led to the
battlements. Laterally, the upper part of this tower is widened by a pair of
cheeks resting on a row of corbels, so as to give greater space within. On
the east side of this tower, at its base and junction with the curtain, is a
postern of 3 feet opening, from which a vaulted staircase ascended to the
domestic buildings. This door is protected by a mass of masonry filling up
the hollow angles above it, and machicolated at its summit. This part of the
castle seems of the age of Henry III.
The whole southern side of the court, from gatehouse to gatehouse, is
occupied by the remains of the domestic buildings. The hall seems to have
had a vaulted basement, 26 feet by 19 feet in plan, with plain ribs springing
end a projection into the ditch, 18 feet by 24 feet. This projection contained
in its basement a plain vault, 15 feet by 9 feet, with two loops; and a
culvert, probably a garderobe, has its vent below a recess in the north wall.
This recess was probably a prison. The basement of the keep is occupied by
a chamber, 28 feet by 22 feet, at the ground level, and vaulted in eight cells,
the ribs forming which spring to and from a central eight-sided pier. The
arches are pointed. There are two loops in this chamber, and three doors,—
one from the court, set in a square-headed recess; a second into the vaulted
accessory chamber; and a third to a postern opening into the ditch, and by a
mural stair to the chamber above.
The first floor also is composed of two chambers, both vaulted, and the
ribs of the large chamber spring from an octagonal pier resting upon that
below. There was a second, and a third story roofed with timber. The
fireplaces were in the north wall, and the windows in the north and east
walls, and of moderate size and Tudor pattern. This tower seems of early
Decorated date. A part of it has recently fallen.
The round tower is altogether a very curious and a very unusual
structure. It is placed on the south-west front of the inner ward. It is 18 feet
diameter, but projects into the ditch 22 feet, being connected with the
curtain by a neck of wall 14 feet broad. It is lofty, having a basement and
three upper floors. The basement is a huge vaulted receptacle for sewage,
with an outlet to the south. The two upper floors are alike in dimensions and
use, being 9 feet by 7 feet, and lighted by narrow loops, three on each floor.
They are vaulted, and contain garderobes, with shafts into the vault below.
The third story had a flat wooden roof, now gone. A well-stair led to the
battlements. Laterally, the upper part of this tower is widened by a pair of
cheeks resting on a row of corbels, so as to give greater space within. On
the east side of this tower, at its base and junction with the curtain, is a
postern of 3 feet opening, from which a vaulted staircase ascended to the
domestic buildings. This door is protected by a mass of masonry filling up
the hollow angles above it, and machicolated at its summit. This part of the
castle seems of the age of Henry III.
The whole southern side of the court, from gatehouse to gatehouse, is
occupied by the remains of the domestic buildings. The hall seems to have
had a vaulted basement, 26 feet by 19 feet in plan, with plain ribs springing
Page 608
from two piers, and to have been on the first floor, with windows in the
curtain. A long chamber east of the hall, with a long east window, seems to
represent the chapel, also on the first floor. In this quarter some excavations
made by the late Lord Dunraven have shown the stairs leading to the
postern, and some vaulted cellars, and probably the kitchen. All these
buildings are of an early Decorated character, and have been much altered
in the Tudor period.
The curtain-wall, from the keep to the great gatehouse, is about 20 feet
high, and is of the age of the gatehouse, and later than the wall elsewhere.
Near the gatehouse it is 20 feet thick. Part of its parapet, 6 feet, and rear
wall, 5 feet high, remain. The former is bracketed out on corbels, most of
which are removed newels from an older well-stair. This part of the curtain
is reached from the gatehouse, and has no communication with the keep. Of
the same date with this curtain is the wall on the other side of the gatehouse,
southwards for about 16 yards, when there is a junction with the older wall.
This part of the curtain is polygonal outside, and curved within, and
externally about 40 feet high. Beyond, or northward of the round tower, the
height of the curtain is 60 feet, and it is pierced with windows belonging to
the hall and other apartments. There remains also, on the wall, a lofty
chimney. Towards the junction of this curtain with the wall of the outer
ward it is connected with a sort of gallery, looped towards the field, and
intended for the defence of the hollow angle where the three walls meet.
The dividing wall between the inner and outer ward is nearly destroyed, and
does not seem to have been strong.
The well is in the open court, 4 feet diameter, circular, and rudely walled.
The outer ward does not present any very noteworthy features. Its south
wall is low, and pierced with windows, as of lodgings. The north wall is
strongly buttressed outside. There was an outer gateway in the western wall,
now broken down. It seems to have been a mere opening in the wall,
without a gatehouse, but flanked by a pair of buttresses. The walls of this
ward are about 20 feet high. The northern front of the outer ward, being
naturally weak, has been protected by a double ditch, the contents of which
are thrown outwards, and form banks. The ditches are dry. In a field to the
north-east are some banks and ditches which may have been thrown up
when the castle was attacked.
curtain. A long chamber east of the hall, with a long east window, seems to
represent the chapel, also on the first floor. In this quarter some excavations
made by the late Lord Dunraven have shown the stairs leading to the
postern, and some vaulted cellars, and probably the kitchen. All these
buildings are of an early Decorated character, and have been much altered
in the Tudor period.
The curtain-wall, from the keep to the great gatehouse, is about 20 feet
high, and is of the age of the gatehouse, and later than the wall elsewhere.
Near the gatehouse it is 20 feet thick. Part of its parapet, 6 feet, and rear
wall, 5 feet high, remain. The former is bracketed out on corbels, most of
which are removed newels from an older well-stair. This part of the curtain
is reached from the gatehouse, and has no communication with the keep. Of
the same date with this curtain is the wall on the other side of the gatehouse,
southwards for about 16 yards, when there is a junction with the older wall.
This part of the curtain is polygonal outside, and curved within, and
externally about 40 feet high. Beyond, or northward of the round tower, the
height of the curtain is 60 feet, and it is pierced with windows belonging to
the hall and other apartments. There remains also, on the wall, a lofty
chimney. Towards the junction of this curtain with the wall of the outer
ward it is connected with a sort of gallery, looped towards the field, and
intended for the defence of the hollow angle where the three walls meet.
The dividing wall between the inner and outer ward is nearly destroyed, and
does not seem to have been strong.
The well is in the open court, 4 feet diameter, circular, and rudely walled.
The outer ward does not present any very noteworthy features. Its south
wall is low, and pierced with windows, as of lodgings. The north wall is
strongly buttressed outside. There was an outer gateway in the western wall,
now broken down. It seems to have been a mere opening in the wall,
without a gatehouse, but flanked by a pair of buttresses. The walls of this
ward are about 20 feet high. The northern front of the outer ward, being
naturally weak, has been protected by a double ditch, the contents of which
are thrown outwards, and form banks. The ditches are dry. In a field to the
north-east are some banks and ditches which may have been thrown up
when the castle was attacked.
Page 609
The castle has little to boast of either in material or workmanship. It is
mainly built of lias rubble, but the round tower is of sandstone. The mortar
generally is of inferior quality, and there is but little ashlar. The roofs were
covered with slabs of fissile sand or tile-stone. The southern curtain is
probably the oldest part of the castle. It is composed of large boulder or
popple-stones, necessarily with very open joints. In it are two small trefoil-
headed windows of early English or early Decorated date, which appear to
be original. They open from the vaulted chamber beneath the hall. The
angles of the curtain are quoined with Sutton stone. The castle, built
probably in the early English and Decorated periods, seems to have been
thoroughly restored and repaired late in the Perpendicular period. It is fast
going to decay, and large portions of it have fallen since 1832. It is the
property of the Earl of Dunraven; but the ditch belongs to Mr. Nicholl, of
Merthyr Mawr, and was planted by his grandfather, the eminent judge.
END OF VOL. I.
WYMAN AND SONS, PRINTERS, GREAT QUEEN STREET, LONDON, W.C.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] “By writ of May 30, 1225, the king orders Godescall de Maghelines to enjoin all
persons who have fortalices (motas) in the valley of Montgomery, to strengthen the
same with wooden turrets (bretaschiis) for their own security and the defence of these
parts.”—Eyton’s Antiquities of Shropshire, xi., p. 134.
[2] Dr. Simpson, whose opinion on such a subject carries great weight, attributes this
keep to the reign of Stephen, the end of the Norman period.
[3] The tower at Warwick is 105 feet high and 38 feet diameter; a polygon of twelve
sides, with five vaulted stories.
[4] “Dictionnaire de l’Architecture,” tom. vi. “Hourd.”
mainly built of lias rubble, but the round tower is of sandstone. The mortar
generally is of inferior quality, and there is but little ashlar. The roofs were
covered with slabs of fissile sand or tile-stone. The southern curtain is
probably the oldest part of the castle. It is composed of large boulder or
popple-stones, necessarily with very open joints. In it are two small trefoil-
headed windows of early English or early Decorated date, which appear to
be original. They open from the vaulted chamber beneath the hall. The
angles of the curtain are quoined with Sutton stone. The castle, built
probably in the early English and Decorated periods, seems to have been
thoroughly restored and repaired late in the Perpendicular period. It is fast
going to decay, and large portions of it have fallen since 1832. It is the
property of the Earl of Dunraven; but the ditch belongs to Mr. Nicholl, of
Merthyr Mawr, and was planted by his grandfather, the eminent judge.
END OF VOL. I.
WYMAN AND SONS, PRINTERS, GREAT QUEEN STREET, LONDON, W.C.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] “By writ of May 30, 1225, the king orders Godescall de Maghelines to enjoin all
persons who have fortalices (motas) in the valley of Montgomery, to strengthen the
same with wooden turrets (bretaschiis) for their own security and the defence of these
parts.”—Eyton’s Antiquities of Shropshire, xi., p. 134.
[2] Dr. Simpson, whose opinion on such a subject carries great weight, attributes this
keep to the reign of Stephen, the end of the Norman period.
[3] The tower at Warwick is 105 feet high and 38 feet diameter; a polygon of twelve
sides, with five vaulted stories.
[4] “Dictionnaire de l’Architecture,” tom. vi. “Hourd.”
Page 610
Transcriber’s Notes:
Redundant title and printer information pages have been removed.
Blank pages have been removed.
Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.
Redundant title and printer information pages have been removed.
Blank pages have been removed.
Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.
Page 611
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