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Title: An Account of the Bell Rock Light-House

Author: Robert Stevenson

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Most recently updated: October 24, 2024

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BELL ROCK LIGHT HOUSE
DURING A STORM FROM THE NORTH EAST.
Drawn by J. M. W. Turner R. A.
Engraved by J. Horsburgh.

AN

ACCOUNT

OF THE

BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE,

INCLUDING THE
DETAILS OF THE ERECTION AND PECULIAR STRUCTURE
OF THAT EDIFICE.

TO WHICH IS PREFIXED A
HISTORICAL VIEW OF THE INSTITUTION AND PROGRESS
OF THE
NORTHERN LIGHT-HOUSES.

ILLUSTRATED WITH TWENTY-THREE ENGRAVINGS.

DRAWN UP BY DESIRE OF
THE COMMISSIONERS OF THE NORTHERN LIGHT-HOUSES,

BY
ROBERT STEVENSON,
CIVIL ENGINEER;
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF EDINBURGH;
MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF SCOTISH ANTIQUARIES, OF THE WERNERIAN NATURAL
HISTORY SOCIETY,

AND OF THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON;
ENGINEER TO THE NORTHERN LIGHT-HOUSE BOARD, AND TO THE CONVENTION
OF ROYAL BOROUGHS OF SCOTLAND.

EDINBURGH:
PRINTED FOR ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE & CO. EDINBURGH;
HURST, ROBINSON & CO. 90. CHEAPSIDE; AND JOSIAH TAYLOR,
50. HIGH HOLBORN,
LONDON.
1824.

TO

THE KING.
SIRE,
It is with much diffidence that the author now lays before Your Majesty, an
Account of the arduous national undertaking of erecting a Light-house on
the Bell Rock,—a sunk reef, lying about eleven miles from the shore, and so
situated as to have long proved an object of dread to mariners on the
eastern coast of Scotland, especially when making for the Friths of Forth
and Tay.
This edifice being of the utmost consequence to the safety of Your Majesty’s
Ships of War upon the North Sea station, and of the commercial shipping of
this part of the empire, he presumes to hope for Your Majesty’s favourable
acceptance of his work. From the known partiality, also, of Your Majesty for
naval excursions, which so recently led the Royal Squadron within a
comparatively short distance of the Bell Rock Light-house, in the course of
Your Majesty’s most gracious Visit to your ancient Kingdom of Scotland, he
flatters himself that Your Majesty may feel an additional interest in the
subject of this volume.
The Introduction to this work brings generally under Your Majesty’s notice,
the important labours of the Scottish Light-house Board, appointed by an
act of the 26th Parliament of Your Majesty’s illustrious Father. Since that
period, Light-house stations have been partially extended over the whole
northern shores of Your Majesty’s British dominions, from Inchkeith in the
Firth of Forth, to the Isle of Man in the Irish Sea, including in this circuit
the Hebrides, and Orkney and Shetland Islands. Much, however, still
remains to be done; and the Board is gradually proceeding, as the state of
its funds will permit, in placing additional Sea-Lights on certain
intermediate points of the coast.
It cannot fail to be gratifying to Your Majesty to learn, as the result of the
exertions of this Board, that the mariner may now navigate those regions

with a degree of security and confidence quite unknown to Your Majesty’s
Royal Ancestor James the Fifth, when he sailed around this coast in the
16th century, or even, at a recent period, to Your Majesty’s Royal Brother
William Henry Duke of Clarence, when in early life he traversed those seas.
With unfeigned sentiments of loyalty and attachment, the author subscribes
himself,
Your Majesty’s
Most devoted Subject and Servant,
ROBERT STEVENSON.

THE

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION.
Historical Narrative of the Institution of the Board of Commissioners, and Progress
made in the Erection of the Northern Light-houses.

Page
Early Voyages of the Scots. Extension of Trade. Charts of the Coast. 1–4
1786. Proposition for the establishment of a Light-house Board in Scotland. Original act passed 5–6
in 1786. Commissioners appointed. First Meeting of the Board. Mode of raising Funds.
1787. Kinnaird-Head and Mull of Kintyre Light-houses. 6–8
1788. Light Duty found to be too small. Act of 1788. 9
1789. Island Glass, North Ronaldsay, and Pladda Light-houses. Collectors of the Light-Duties 10–
appointed. 11
1791. Pladda distinguishing Light. Annual Supply and Inspection of the Light-houses. Light- 12–
keepers’ Salary. Economical plan of early Light-houses. 14
1793. Application for Additional Lights. State of the Light-house Funds. 14–
15
1794. Pentland Skerry Light-house. Writer’s first Voyage to the North. Loss of the Sloop 15–
Elizabeth. Mr Balfour and Mr Riddoch of Orkney presented with Pieces of Plate. 17
Act Incorporating the Commissioners into a Board or Body Politic. Additional works at 18–
the Light-houses already built. Proposition for altering Kinnaird-Head Light-house. 19
1801. Numerous Shipwrecks on the Island of Sanday. Proofs of a severe winter in Orkney. 19–
Quarries at Sanday and Eda. Encroachments of the Sea. Remarks on Ruble Building, and 23
Houses with double walls. Foundation-Stone of Start Point Light-house laid. Reverend
Walter Traill’s Address upon this occasion.
1803. Inchkeith Light-house. Originally proposed as a Leading Light. Duty for Inchkeith 24–
modified. Light-keepers Accommodations extended. Construction of Light-rooms and 29
Reflectors improved. Inscription upon Inchkeith Light-house. Pilot’s guard-room.
Shipwrecked Seamen sheltered.
1806. Start-Point Light exhibited, and North Ronaldsay Light-house converted into a Beacon. 30–
List of 22 Shipwrecks on the Island of Sanday, in the course of Twelve Years. Foreman 34
and Artificers lost in the Traveller. Captain Manby’s Apparatus,
Island of May Light-house. Patent ratified 1641; the Duty for that Light complained of 36–
after the Union. Family of Scotstarvet become Proprietors. Chamber of Commerce get 41
that Light improved. Portland Family become Proprietors. Loss of the Nymphen and
Pallas Frigates. Lord Melville, First Lord of the Admiralty, applies to the Light-house

Board, by whom the Duties and Island of May are purchased. Additional apartments
provided at the Isle of May. Notice of the alteration of this Light and that of Inchkeith.
Pilot’s guard-room.
1815. Corsewall Light-house. Foundation-stone laid. Light exhibited. 42–
44
1818. Isle of Man Light-houses. Writer’s Report in the year 1802, relative to the erection of 44–
Light-houses on the Isle of Man. Trade of Liverpool applies to the Commissioners to 48
erect them. Act of 1815, obtained by Sir W. Rae, with regard to these Lights. Difficulty of
fixing their Sites. Lights exhibited 1st February 1818. Sum expended by the Light-house
Board, on the East Coast, in the course of 10 years.
1821. Sumburgh-head Light exhibited. This House built with double walls, 52
Carr Rock Beacon. List of 16 vessels wrecked there in the course of nine years. Floating- 56–
Buoy moored off this dangerous Reef. Beacon of Masonry designed, with Tide-machine 62
and Bell-apparatus. Dimensions of Carr Rock. Difficulties of this work. It is frequently
damaged in Storms. The upper part ultimately completed with cast-iron, without the
Alarm-Bell.
Duties exigible. Expence of Management. Accounts of the Light-house Board made 63–
public. Application of the Funds, and disposal of the Surplus. Practical Management. 64

ACCOUNT OF THE BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE.

CHAP. I.
Name, Situation, Dimensions, and Natural History, of the Bell Rock.—Depth of Water,
and Current of the Tides in its Vicinity.
Page
Origin of the Names Inch-Cape and Bell Rock. Tradition of a Bell erected by one of the 67–
Abbots of Aberbrothock. 68
Situation, Dimensions, and Mineralogy of the Rock. Wasting effects of the Sea. Proofs of its 69–
having occupied a higher Level. 71
Plants, Animals, Insect destructive to Timber. Experiment with pieces of Timber fixed to the 72–
Rock. Mussels attempted to be planted upon it. Habits of Fishes. 74
Depth of Water upon the Rock, and at the distance of 100 yards from it. Tides at the Rock. 75–
Not accounted for by Writers on the subject. Progress of the great Waves of the Tide. Periods 81
of High-water at different places in the Firth of Forth. Currents at the Mouth of the River Dee.
Water salt at bottom and fresh at top. Phenomenon of in and off shore Tides. Tides of
Mediterranean and Baltic Seas.
CHAP. II.
Position of the Bell Rock.—Designs for the Light-house.—Bill by Lord Advocate
Hope in 1803.—Bill by Lord Advocate Erskine in 1806.—Report of the Committee of
the House of Commons.—Passing of the Bill.
Dangerous Position of the Rock. Sir Alexander Cochrane’s Letter to the Light-house Board. 81–
Great Storm in 1799. Expence of the Light-house, as estimated by the Public. Designs by 93
Captain Brodie and Mr Cooper. Captain Brodie’s remuneration. The Writer’s first visit to the
Rock in the year 1800. Pillar-formed Building compared with one of Stone. Mr Telford
requested to give a Design. Mr Downie’s Pillar-formed Design.

Bell Rock Light-house proposed at the Convention of Royal Burghs. Lord Advocate Hope’s 94–
Bill is lost in the House of Lords in 1803. 95
The Light-house Board consults Mr Rennie, who visits the Rock with Mr Hamilton, and the 94–
Writer. The Commissioners take the sense of certain Ports relative to the measure. Reports of 98
the Traders in Leith and Berwick. Resolution of the Board to apply again to Parliament.
Lord Advocate Erskine’s Bill 1806. Mr Hamilton and the Writer go to London on this 100–
business. Loan from Government doubtful. Board of Trade favourable to the Loan. Memorial 105
to the Board of Trade. Sir Joseph Banks’s exertions. Bill read first and second times. Report
brought up by Sir John Sinclair. Report of the Committee. Bill meets with some opposition at
the third reading, but is passed.
CHAP. III.—1807.
Floating-light Ship.—Commencement of the Operations on the Rock.—Erection of the
Beacon-House, and Progress of the Works.
The Act provides for the mooring of a Floating-Light. Fishing Dogger purchased, fitted out 107–
and moored, under the direction of a Committee of the Trinity-House of Leith, and named the 114
Pharos. Peculiar construction of her Lanterns and Moorings. She sails for her station. A
Committee from Arbroath joins the party at the Isle of May. Is anchored in a temporary birth.
Her moorings unexpectedly slip over-board, and are recovered with much difficulty.
Description of the Pharos.
Commencement of the Operations at the Rock. Sloop Smeaton. Positions of the Beacon and 115–
Light-house fixed upon. First trip of the Artificers to the Rock on the 7th August. Rate of 120
Wages. Letter from Aberdeen Masons. Lines from Dibdin.
Erection of the Beacon-House. Work commenced 18th August. Method of fixing iron-bats 120–
into the Rock. Landing-master’s duty. Indications of the state of the Weather. Dangerous 126
situation of the Rock in Foggy weather. Artificers amuse themselves with fishing while the
Rock is under water. The fixing of the Smith’s Forge completed. Valuable services of the
Smiths on the Bell Rock. Much wanted at the Edystone. The Seals desert the Rock.
Hampered state of the Artificers on ship-board. Inconveniencies of the Pharos as a Tender. 127–
Difficulty of getting on board. Artificers become expert rowers. Their rations of Provisions. 130
“Saturday-Night at Sea.”
Reasons for continuing the works upon the Rock during part of Sundays. Preparations for 131–
having Prayers on deck. Prayer composed by the Reverend Dr A. Brunton. Some of the 135
Artificers decline working on Sunday. Additional Pay for Sunday’s work.
Artificers work knee-deep in water during neap-tides. Operations at the Rock entirely 135–
confined to the Beacon. Description of the operation of boring holes in the Rock. Difficult 137
situation of the Smiths.
Wind-Gauge much wanted, to afford a better nomenclature to Seamen. Difficult passage with 138–
the boats from the Rock to the Tender. Life-Buoy streamed on this occasion. A Tender is 141
ordered exclusively for the service of the Rock. Some of the Artificers apply for leave ashore.
Landing made upon the Rock after a gale.
Method of fixing the great iron-stanchions into the Rock. Longest day’s work hitherto had 142–
upon it. Smeaton brings off a cargo of stones for making the experiment of landing them. 152
Various methods suggested for this critical operation. Stones first landed on the Rock. Mode
originally adopted for attaching the Stone-lighters to their moorings. Smeaton breaks adrift.
Perilous situation of those on the Rock. Pilot-boat fortunately comes to their relief. The Boats
have a rough passage to the Floating-light. The Smeaton bears away for Arbroath.
Indispensable utility of the Beacon-house. Eighteen of the Artificers decline embarking for
the Rock. The boats, nevertheless, proceed with the remaining eight. Captain Pool’s account
of the drifting of the Smeaton,

The comparative level of the site of the Building ascertained. Full complement of Buoys 153–
moored. Floating-light rides out a strong gale. State of the vessel. The Writer consults with the 164
Officers of the ship relative to the probable effect of her breaking adrift. The gale takes off.
Appearance of the Sea on the Rock. The Floating-light breaks adrift. Her cables supposed to
have been cut by a piece of wreck. Difficulty of managing this vessel. She is anchored and
moored in a new station. Her Light is first exhibited on the 15th of September 1807.
Light-house Yacht for a time becomes the Tender at the Rock. Artificers agree to continue on 164–
board of her beyond the term of their engagement. An accident happens to one of the Boats. 165
The Smeaton arrives at the Rock, 18th September, with the Beams of the Beacon-house. 166–
Preparations made, and four of the principal ones erected. Method of raising them, and fixing 171
the great Iron-Stanchions. Seven hours’ work upon the Rock in one ebb-tide. The remaining
two principal, and four of the supporting beams, erected.
The Boats have some difficulty in leaving the Rock. Shipping dispersed in a gale. Land again 172–
after an absence of four days. Smith’s Forge removed from the Rock to the Beacon. Writer 174
lands at Arbroath, after having been four weeks afloat.
The vessels are again separated in a gale. A landing effected at the Rock. State of the Beacon. 175–
Working hours extended. Beacon-works finished for the season. Mr John Rennie, and his son 180
Mr George, visit the Rock. Number of days during which the Artificers were at work.
Progress of Operations in the Work-yard. Writer visits the Rock 22d November. State of the 181–
Beacon. Professor Playfair’s observations about the unlocking of Screws. State of the 188
Floating-light.
CHAP. IV.—1808.
Shipping.—Implements.—Building Materials; and Progress of the Works.
Praam-boats built with a water-tight ceiling or lining. Method of mooring the Praam-boats. 187–
Attending boats, one of which is fitted up as a Life-boat. 188
Railways, Waggons, Sheer-crane, Moveable-beam-crane, Sling-cart, Carpenters’ Jack, Lewis- 189–
bat, Moulds, Coffer-dam, Pumps, Winch-machine. 196
Mineralogy of eastern coast. Report of Messrs Rennie and Stevenson, about Stone. The use of 196–
Granite resolved upon. Mortar of the Ancients. Attention of the Moderns to this subject. 204
Mortar of the Edystone and Bell Rock, Lime, Pozzolano, Sand, Water, Cement. Oaken
trenails, and Wedges.
The Writer visits the Rock 30th March. Floating-light’s crew. Light comparatively
feeble. Landing at the Rock difficult. State of the Beacon.
Propriety of converting it into a Barrack. Bread and Water chest. Advantages
of the Beacon to Shipping. 205–
208
Impress-service affects the Operations. Protection-Medal and Descriptive Ticket. Light-house 209–
Yacht on the station as a Tender. Preparatory works. Use of Granite restricted to lower courses 212
of the building. Use of Sandstone extended. Mr Skene’s contract for supplying Granite.
The Sir Joseph Banks Schooner takes her station as Tender at the Rock. The Writer begins the 212–
operations of the season 25th May. State of the Foundation-pit. Difficult landing. It is found 218
necessary to excavate the Rock further, to a greater depth. Artificers much afflicted with sea-
sickness. Misunderstanding about their Pay. Sailors men of all-works,
Mortar Gallery fitted up. Smeaton ballasted from the Bell Rock. Fish caught in great 218–
abundance. 219
First entire course completed in the hewing, and laid on the platform in the Work-yard at 220–
Arbroath, on the 4th June. Its cubical contents. Certainty of commencing the building 226
operations this season. Arrangements with the artificers. How employed. Interesting

appearance of the Rock. They remain there all day. Tender bears away for Leith Roads. The
work is continued on the Rock till midnight. Its appearance. Artificers backward in landing,
owing to the appearance of the weather.
First entire course of the building removed from the platform, to be shipped for the Rock, 227–
14th June. Trial of the Landing apparatus. Fifty Artificers land. Small ruble-walls built instead 235
of coffer-dam. Advantages of a Bell as a signal in foggy weather. Force of the Sea upon the
Rock. Artificers sail for Arbroath. Pay and premiums of the Artificers this month. They
embark again for the Rock on the return of Spring-tides. How employed.
Foundation-stone prepared, landed at high-water. Laid 10th July, with masonic ceremony. 235–
237
Price of Granite advanced. A raft of Timber goes adrift. State of things at night on 239–
extinguishing the torches at the Rock. First or foundation course, consisting of 18 stones, 244
finished 26th July. Force of habit exemplified in landing on the Rock. Cargo of the first entire
course landed 28th July. The Smeaton makes a second trip in twenty hours. 4 stones are laid.
Advantage of cranes compared with sheer-poles. Mr Smeaton’s plan in the use of trenails and
wedges followed.
A party of gentlemen have a narrow escape at the Rock. First entire course completed 12th 244–
August. One of the artificers disabled in the work-yard at Arbroath. He receives an annuity. 249
Granite stones much wanted for the work. Second entire course completed. Pumping of water
discontinued at the Rock 10th September. One of the artificers, by an accidental bruise, loses
a finger. Progress of the works stopped for want of Granite. The Building brought to a level
with the higher parts of the Rock.
Great difficulty of landing. Two stones are loosened by the force of the Sea. Praam-boats ride 250–
out a gale with great ease. 31 stones laid in 6½ hours. One of the boats cannot be got out of 253
the eastern-creek. 15 stones laid. Weather very boisterous. Engineer’s Clerk most active.
Unfortunate loss of James Scott, a sailor. His mother gets a small annuity. 17 stones laid. 253–
Building closed for the season 21st September. Summary of Operations. Shipping dispersed 256
in a gale. State of things at the Rock after the gale. The Writer sails on his annual trip to the
Northern Light-houses. Visits the Bell Rock on his return. Arrangements for the Winter
months.
CHAP. V.—1809.
Progress of the Works.
Railways injured. Bracing-chains unlocked. Proofs of strong currents in the Sea. Travellers or 257–
Drift-stones found upon the Rock. Progress of works in the Yard at Arbroath. Exertions in the 262
Quarries. Captain Calder’s letter to Mr Stevenson. Drift-stones removed. Joisting of platform
lifted. A vessel in danger of being wrecked at the Rock. Cast-iron anchors.
Purchase of sloop Patriot. Floating-Light encounters heavy Seas. 12th course completed by 263–
the stone-cutters. Employment of Shipping. Patriot condemned. Opinion of Mr Solicitor- 266
General Boyle. Two Praam-boats launched. Floating-light under the charge of Mr John Reid.
Two sets of moorings laid down. Tender slips her moorings. Other three sets of moorings are
laid down.
Artificers cannot land. The sailors account for the unsettled state of the weather. The Writer 266–
visits the Rock 1st May. Some timber is landed. Tender in danger of drifting upon the Rock. 271
Joiners and millwrights get high premiums. Works make rapid progress. One of the floating-
buoys gets water-logged. Great exertions made to complete the circular reach of the railway
laid round the Building. Attempt made to erect a crane.
The Smeaton sails for the Rock with the first cargo of stones this season. Floating-Light’s 272–
moorings examined. State of her moorings. Plants and Animals observed on the building. 277
Builders commence operations 27th May. Lay 5 stones. Tender rides out a hard gale.

Apparatus on the Rock, and state of the Sea, viewed from a boat at a distance. Landing very
difficult. State of the Weather.
Zeal of the Writer’s Assistants. Eleven Artificers left upon the Beacon. They encounter a 276–
severe gale. The Tender at this time is very uncomfortable. Artificers relieved. Mr P. Logan’s 284
account of the Beacon during the gale. James Glen’s exertions. State of matters at the Rock
after the gale. Tender obliged to leave her station. Progress of the works at Arbroath. Patriot
slips her moorings. Artificers divided into squads. Shipping belonging to the Light-house
service. Building goes on, laying at the rate of from 12 to 20 blocks per day. Great exertions
made to supply materials.
Artificers are unavoidably left all night upon the Beacon. Smeaton and Patriot slip their 284–
moorings. Remarkable breach of the Sea upon the Rock. 3 stones are in danger of being 290
washed away. Great waste of mortar. 57 stones are laid in one day. Cooking commenced on
the Beacon 24th June. Situation of mortar-makers and smiths upon the Beacon. Rope-ladder
extended between the Beacon and Building. Work stopped by a simple mistake. 66 stones
landed, and 38 laid on the 27th of June. The work can now be continued after the Rock is
overflowed by the tide.
One of the artificers meets with a severe accident, of which, however, he recovers. Have 10 290–
hours’ work to-day, and lay 59 stones. Writer visits the Carr Rock, with a view to the erection 294
of a Beacon. Joiners, at their own desire, are now left on the Beacon. Considered a favourable
omen for the inhabitation of the Light-house.
Tide for the first time does not overflow the building, 8th July. Number of joiners reduced. 294–
Balance-crane begun to be made. Tenth course completed. Building at the rate of 29 to 52 298
stones per day. The stone-lighters not loaded at Arbroath on Sundays,
William Walker, accidentally killed at Arbroath. His widow receives an annuity. One of the 298–
artificers remains alone on the Beacon. Artificers take possession of it, along with Peter 300
Fortune. His character. The Praam-boats cannot approach the Rock.
An embargo is laid on shipping throughout the Kingdom. Mr Sheriff Duff’s exertions to get 300–
the Light-house shipping relieved. Operations at the Rock while the vessels are detained in 306
port. The embargo is taken off the Light-house shipping. The propriety of stopping the Bell
Rock vessels doubted. 78 stones landed, and 40 built, on the 1st August. Twenty-four
artificers inhabit the Beacon-house. Mr Sheriff Duff visits the Rock. Building proceeds at the
rate of from 22 to 23 stones per day. The Fly of Bridport narrowly escapes shipwreck on the
Bell Rock. Mr Sheriff Hamilton visits the Rock. Additional supports for the Beacon-house
landed. Sheer-crane broken. Some of the artificers get alarmed, and leave the Beacon. Effects
of the late gale.
The Writer takes possession of his cabin on the Beacon 15th August. 52 stones landed, and 306–
eight built. One of the boats of the Floating-light loses her way in thick weather. An entire 311
course of the building is laid in one day. Prayers read for the first time in the Beacon-house.
The Smeaton arrives with the last cargo of stones for the solid part of the Building. Building
operations for the season concluded, 25th August. Notice of the very proper conduct of the
artificers. Floating-light breaks adrift. Probable height of the waves of the sea in free space.
Inducements for stopping the building at this early period of the season. The Tender continues
on the station, and the artificers occupy the Beacon-house for a time. Experience bad weather.
The Writer makes a trip to see the distinguishing-light at Flamborough-head in Yorkshire. Is 311–
overtaken with a gale, which he describes. Great want of a Public Harbour on the eastern 313
coast of England. Progress of this gale traced from Shetland to Yarmouth Roads. Mr B. Mills
of Bridlington, probably the first who suggested Distinguishing-lights with red colour.
The Writer sails for the Northern Lights. State of the works when closed for the season. Stool 313–
or prop for a crane upon the Rock demolished in a gale of wind. Artificers visit the Rock. 315

Large Buoy has drifted and Floating-light has had bad weather.
CHAP. VI.—1810.
Progress and Completion of the Works.
The Tender visits the Rock and Floating-light, 5th January. The Artificers cannot land again 317–
until the 11th March. Beacon rendered very secure. Landing extremely precarious in winter. 319
Retrospective view of the works. Mylnefield and Craigleith quarries. Practical inferences 320–
about concluding the works. Timber Gangway or Bridge. Operations commence for the 324
season. Bridge erected at the Rock. One of the artificers gets himself hurt.
Writer proceeds to the Rock to begin the building operations, 1st May. Praam-boats ride 324–
easily. State of the Building, Beacon and Timber-bridge. Balance-crane landed upon the Rock. 329
Position of the entrance-door. Artificers take possession of the Beacon for the working season.
The Smeaton arrives with the first cargo of stones for the season. No communication with the 329–
Rock, 12th May. Balance-crane ready for use. Theory of Sea and Land breezes. Smeaton slips 331
her moorings, and is driven up to Leith.
Patriot sent to Mylnefield quarry for the last cargo of stones to be carried to Arbroath for the 332–
Light-house, 17th May. State of the lower part of the Beacon, from the effects of a marine 336
insect. 23 blocks of stone landed, and raised with the new tackle. One of the stones in danger
from the breaking of a bolt. The Smeaton makes rapid trips from Arbroath to the Rock with
materials. Prayers read for the first time on the Building. Exertions of Landing-master’s crew.
35th course completed. Arrangements for the conduct of the works, and safety of the Beacon.
Balance-crane shaft unfortunately breaks.
The Writer is welcomed in at the door of the Light-house, 26th May. Fixtures of the Hinges of 336–
the Door and Windows. Great expedition of the Shipping with the Materials. Patriot makes 339
one trip in 33 hours. 36th course laid. King’s Birth-day observed, 4th June.
Stair-case of the Light-house completed, 5th June. Progress of works at Edinburgh. Artificers 340–
liable to accident. Boat and Life Buoy provided for the Beacon. Trenailing of the stones of the 342
building discontinued. Number of persons inhabiting the Beacon. Fitting of the window-
hinges tedious. Comforts of good weather. Balance-crane shifted.
Moveable beam-crane erected on Western Wharf. 2 stones upset by the force of the sea. A 341–
praam-boat is sent from the Rock without delivering her cargo. Floor of the Lightroom-store 344
laid, 13th June. Mr John Reid gets leave on shore, after having been about three months
afloat.
First letter written from the Bell Rock Light-house. Its floors, and those of the Edystone 344–
described. 31 persons lodged in the Beacon. Pay and premiums of the artificers at the Rock. 347
Seamen find one of the lost sets of moorings. Experiment of collecting Gas from Fishes.
Cause of ground swells.
Landing-master’s dress, and activity of his crew. Want of the Western Wharf seriously felt. 347–
Operation of shifting the Balance-crane. Western Wharf finished, 17th June. Remarkable state 352
of the sea at the Rock. Landing-master’s crew have now more leisure. Disagreeable state of
the weather. Responsible situation of the principal workmen.
Carpenter of Floating-light leaves the service. Patriot makes a trip to and from Arbroath in 24 352–
hours. Attempts made to land stones at high water with the bridge apparatus. Process of 357
landing stones. Seamen become discontented. The Writer’s correspondence on this occasion.
He goes on board of the Tender. Dismisses two of the seamen.
Progress of the works at Arbroath. 62d course built at the Rock. The artificers are wetted by 357–
the sea on the top of the walls. Mr John Reid’s report regarding the Floating-light. Narrow 361
escape of William Kennedy, one of the masons.
Writer describes his cabin. The distressing case of George Dall, an impressed seaman. 362–
Magistrates of Arbroath visit the Rock. Number of artificers reduced to 22. Narrow escape of 365

the Smeaton at the Bell Rock. Advantage of alarm-bells. Artificers in the Beacon-house
greatly alarmed.
Progress of the Light-room works. Mrs Dixon, the late Mr Smeaton’s daughter, visits the Bell 365–
Rock works at Edinburgh. Mr D. Logan joins the works at the Rock. The Patriot is 7 days in 369
being cleared of a cargo. Progress of raising the stones to the top of the Light-house,
Last cargo of stones at Arbroath shipped for the Rock, 9th July. Library floor laid. Ring-bar- 369–
course laid. The Dome-course occupies much time in building. 372
Landing-master’s crew reduced in number. Patriot driven from the Rock. Ceremony observed 372–
at loading the last stone at Leith. Many strangers visit the works in their present state. 377
Difficulty of raising and laying the stones of the cornice. 84th course completed. Eight stones
of Balcony course laid. This course completed 27th July. Ceremony at landing the last stone.
Machinery partly dismantled, 31st July. Foot of Balance-crane taken down. The Earl of 377–
Kellie, and Mr Sheriff Monypenny, land at the Rock. Centre-stone of floor laid 3d August. 379
Artificers leave the Rock. The Writer meets with his Assistants at Arbroath.
Plans arranged for building the Houses at Arbroath for the families of the Light-keepers. The 379–
duty on stone charged upon these buildings. Three years of the unexpired lease of the work- 383
yard given up. Base-line measured on the Sands of Barry. Trigonometrical Survey of Great
Britain alluded to.
Artificers return to the Rock. Smeaton obliged to leave her station. Mortar gallery completely 383–
broken up by the sea. The Tender returns to the Rock. The Smith’s anvil and bellows washed 386
off the Beacon.
Light-room sash-frames landed 23d August. Captain Wilson is accidentally hurt by one of 386–
them. Last stone of the Light-house laid, 2d September. 388
The Sir Joseph Banks Tender sails for Leith to be sold. Praam-boat drifts from the Rock. 388–
Artificers for the erection of the Light-room landed upon the Rock on the 14th of October. 394
The Writer sails for the Northern Light-houses, accompanied by his friends Dr Barclay, Mr
Oliphant, and Mr Neill. Progress of the Light-room works on his return. Unfortunate loss of
Charles Henderson. Difficulty of procuring red-coloured glass. Ventilating or Finishing ball
fixed upon the Cupola of the Light-room, 22d October. Light-room glazed. Light-house Yacht
loses one of her boats off the Bell Rock. Great dexterity of the Landing-master and his crew.
State of the Railways, Beacon, and Light-house. Condition of the several apartments. House 394–
put under the charge of Mr Reid, principal Light-keeper, 30th September. Small boat washed 399
off the Beacon. Sprays rise 104 feet upon the Light-house. Seas fly from stem to stern of the
Floating-light. Mr Reid left with Peter Fortune in charge of the Light-house. They experience
a severe gale. Their description of the effects of the Sea.
The Red-coloured Glass arrives at Edinburgh, 6th December. Reflecting apparatus shipped for 399–
the Rock, and landed on the 15th. The Light is advertised to the Public on the 17th. List of 402
Newspapers in which the advertisement is inserted. The Light-keepers are left in possession
of the House, together with Mr Forrest, general superintendant.
CHAP. VII.—1811.
Account of the Bell Rock Light-House, from its completion till the Year 1823,
including Statements of the Expence, Quantity of Materials and Workmanship
connected with the Work.
1811. The Light is exhibited on the 1st of February, when the Floating-Light is extinguished. 404–
A Storm occurs on the night that the House is lighted. Floating-Light puts into Anstruther, on 405
her return voyage to Leith. State of her bottom.
The Light-keepers get their turns of liberty on shore. Letter from Mr Forrest to the writer. 406–
Effects of the Sea on the building. State of the Railways and Wharfs. Remarkable force of the 410
Sea in lifting a large piece of lead. Direction of the Seas which have the greatest effect upon

the Light-house. Comfortable state of the building. Qualifications of the Light-keepers. Mr
Forrest leaves them in full possession of the house.
Progress of Ulterior works. Lord Boyle and a party land at the Rock. Boats suitable for 411–
landing there. Bruce’s “two-half Boat.” Light-house stove takes fire. Sprays rise to the height 413
of the Light-room. Advantage of double windows.
1812. Light-house excites much interest. Sir William Rae and Mr Duff, visit the Rock. The 414–
Beacon is taken down, and removed from the Rock. Mode of securing timber against the 416
Oniscus insect. Light-house encounters another gale. Remarkable shock of the Sea. Professor
Robison’s opinion on this subject. State of the Sea from which the Frontispiece is delineated.
It overruns the Rock at low-water. Mode in which the Light is attended.
1813. Establishment of the Light-keepers at Arbroath completed. Signals observed at the 417–
Rock. Thunder-rod. Method of fixing it. 418
1814. A party of the Commissioners, with Sir Walter Scott, visit the Light-house. 419
1815. Permanent Railways begun to be fitted up. Lord President Hope visits the Rock. 419
1816. Pharos Tender built. Exterior of Light-house painted. 419
1818. Fuci disappear from the Rock. 420
1819. Permanent Railways completed. Improved Access to the Light-house by a brazen 421
ladder. Sprays rise 105 feet. A piece of the highest part of the rock carried away by the
violence of the Sea.
1820. Improvements on the Light-house. Inner door of brass, &c. 421
1821. A new Machine for taking up the Stores. Mr John Reid retires from the Light-house 421
service on half-pay.
1822. Light-house Works and Model completed. Design for Wolf Rock. 422
1823. Severe Storm. Carrier-pigeons sent from the Rock. Expence of the Work. Cubic 423
contents of the Materials.

APPENDIX.

Page
No I. Additional Light-houses proposed on the Coast. Light-Keepers’ Instructions. Rations 425–
of Provisions at the Bell Rock. Monthly, and Ship-wreck Returns. 437
II. Poem on Sir Ralph the Rover, extracted from Mr Southey’s Works. 438
III. Abstract Account of Light-house Duties. 439
IV. Reports relative to the Bell Rock Light-house, by Mr Rennie, and the Writer. 440–
468
V. Remarks relative to the Ground-Swells of the Sea. 469–
470
VI. Schedules of Materials and Workmanship. 471–
474

VII. Abstract Account of Expence. Average Price Provisions. 475–
483

DESCRIPTION OF PLATES.

Plate I. Inchkeith Light-house. 487
II. Carr Rock Beacon. 487–489
III. Chart of Great Britain, with Sections of the Depths of the Sea. 490
IV. Chart, shewing the position of the Bell Rock, in relation to the opposite Shores. 490
V. Chart, shewing the Position of the Rock, in relation to the Shipping. 491
VI. Plan of the Rock, shewing the Position of the Light-house. 492–499
VII. Original Designs for the Light-house. 499–501
VIII. Beacon House. 501–503
XI. Progress of the Works. 503–505
X. Implement and Apparatus connected with the Work. 505–508
XI. Sheer-crane, Praam-boat discharging, &c. 508–510
XII. Work-yard, Light-Keepers’ Houses at Arbroath. 511
XIII. Plan of the several Courses of the Masonry of the Light-house. 511–515
XIV. Moveable Beam Crane. 515–517
XV. Foundation-Pit of the Light-house. 518
XVI. Elevation and Section of the Light-house. 518–519
XVII. Balance-Crane. 520–522
XVIII. General View of the Works. (See page 424.) 520–523
XIX. Door and Window Hinges, and Thunder-rod. 523–525
XX. Balcony and Light-Room. 526–529
XXI. Frontispiece explained. (See Title-page.) 529
XXII. Vignette on Second Title-page. (See page 62.) 530
XXIII. Design for a Light-house, suggested on visiting the Wolf Rock, 530–533

INTRODUCTION.
ACCOUNT OF THE INSTITUTION OF THE BOARD OF
COMMISSIONERS AND OF THE PROGRESS MADE IN THE
ERECTION OF THE NORTHERN LIGHT-HOUSES.
Among the Nations of Europe, the Scots have always
Institution of Board of
Northern Light-
been allowed to possess a considerable share of
houses. maritime enterprise. The local situation and
circumstances of Scotland necessarily directed the
genius of its people to the pursuit of nautical affairs. Their voyages to the
Hanseatic Towns, and to all the commercial countries of Europe, were
naturally longer than those of their more southern neighbours of England,
who were separated from the Continent only by a narrow channel, which
must have rendered their communication in the rude periods of maritime
discovery comparatively easy. The voyages of the Scots even to the most
contiguous parts of France and the Low Countries were upwards of 140
leagues, along a coast intersected by innumerable shoals; and, in the time of
war, lay so open to the attacks of English ships, that, in prosecuting them,
the navigators were obliged to abandon the usual track, and hold a course
far from the shelter of the land, exposed to all the dangers of the seas and
the vicissitudes of the weather.
In those early periods of our national history, when Britain was divided into
two separate and independent states, jealous of each other, it became
necessary for Scotland to form alliances with foreign powers, when distant
voyages, and much intercourse by sea was indispensable. The frequent
struggles with the marauding powers of the North, obliged her to keep a
more considerable navy than would otherwise have been required for the
protection of her commerce. The connection likewise, with Denmark and
Norway, through the marriage of James III. with Margaret daughter of
Christian I., in 1469, was attended with the final annexation of the Orkney
and Shetland Islands to the Crown of Scotland;—circumstances which

naturally extended her foreign traffic, and completely united the dominion
and the navigation of the whole line of her coast.
It was reserved, however, for the influence and happy effects of the Union
of the Crowns and Kingdoms of England, Scotland and Ireland, to draw
forth the full energies of these countries. During the long and glorious reign
of his late Majesty, the name and character of the United Kingdom have
been highly advanced in arms, while her works of industry, have not only
flourished at home, but been extended to the remotest parts of the world.
About the middle of the last or eighteenth century, the
Improvement of the
Highlands.
true value of the Highlands of Scotland, and the best
interests of these extensive districts, may be said for the
first time to have been understood. Since that period, the object of the
Government has been more especially directed to the industry of the
inhabitants, in giving every encouragement and facility to the establishment
of fisheries, towns and harbours, along the shores of the north and west of
Scotland; and in opening interior communications, by the introduction of a
system of roads, the formation of an extensive inland navigation, and the
execution of other national works.
Soon after the internal disturbances which marked the
Extension of Trade.
year 1745, the trade on the coast of Scotland with
sloops or vessels of small tonnage, became
considerable, in consequence of the bounties and encouragement given to
the extension of the British fisheries. About this time also, the important
manufacture of kelp or marine alkali, from certain species of fuci abundant
on the northern and western shores of Scotland, was introduced. Besides
carrying the kelp to market, a considerable number of small vessels was
employed in conveying salt and other articles required for the fisheries,—in
the Irish coasting trade,—in carrying slates from Argyleshire,—and in
transporting the rich iron-ore of Cumberland to the foundries on the eastern
shores of the kingdom. A trade was likewise carried on from the Firth of
Clyde, Liverpool, and the west of England in general, and north of Ireland,
with Norway, the Baltic, and the other States in the north of Europe, in
timber, iron, tar and other commodities; and in exchange for these were
received coal, salt, and the various exports of Britain. These all became
sources of commerce, which created a demand for shipping, and promoted
numerous voyages along the northern and western coasts of Scotland,

which now became more known and frequented. But such was the length
and peril of a voyage round the coast of Scotland, by the Orkneys and
Western Islands, without the aid of light-houses, or even of correct charts,
that the traffic along these shores was still comparatively small.
It was to remove these difficulties in some measure,
Inland Navigation.
that the formation of a navigable canal between the
Friths of Forth and Clyde, had long been in agitation;
and in the year 1767, the measure was brought forward in the House of
Commons. This canal, upon a voyage from the Forth to the Clyde, is
calculated to save no less than about 628 miles; the distance, by the inland
navigation being reduced to about 35 miles. This work having been carried
into execution, was opened from sea to sea in 1790, forming an important
step in the progressive intercourse by water-carriage, a system which has
since been so remarkably extended to all parts of the united kingdom. But
the usefulness of the Forth and Clyde Canal was greatly marred by an
unfortunate error in its construction, its depth having been limited to 9 feet,
and its consequent incapacity for carrying sea-borne ships of large burden;
so that the inconveniences of a circuitous voyage round Scotland still
remains for all the larger classes of shipping. In the formation of the
Caledonian Canal, the error of the Forth and Clyde navigation has been
avoided; this noble work being capable of receiving ships which draw 21
feet of water.
Notwithstanding these great improvements, it was still
Voyage of James V. in
1540.
found necessary, from the increasing state of trade, to
give further facilities to the navigation of the northern
shores, by the Orkney and Western Islands. The first step taken towards this
object, was to procure accurate surveys of the coast; for it is a curious fact,
deserving of notice, that the little journal and chart of the enterprising
voyage of James V., with many of the Scottish Nobles, from the Firth of
Forth to the Solway Firth , by the Orkneys, was long consulted as the only
guide for these seas. This voyage, so honourable to the naval annals of
Scotland, was undertaken by James with twelve ships in the year 1540,
under the direction of Alexander Lindsay, the most skilful pilot of his time.
At the request of the Philosophical Society (now the
Original Charts.
Royal Society) of Edinburgh, the Rev. Alex. Bryce of
Kirknewton, about the year 1740, made a geometrical

survey of the North-west coast of Scotland, including the shores of
Caithness and Sutherland. This paved the way for the more extensive
labours of Mr Murdoch Mackenzie, who, after finishing his excellent charts
of the Orkney Islands in the year 1750, was employed by Government in a
survey of the whole of the Western Highlands and Islands, from Cape Wrath
in Sutherlandshire to the Mull of Kintyre. But long after the publication of
these valuable charts, the navigation of the sounds and sheltered seas of this
district was seldom ventured upon by the larger class of shipping employed
in foreign trade. The danger of falling in prematurely with the land during
the night, and the rapidity of the tides on these shores, induced the mariner
to keep along the extreme points and headlands of the coast, holding his
course even to the northward of Orkney and Shetland, and to the westward
of the Lewis Isles by St Kilda, exposed to the heavy seas of the Atlantic
Ocean. In this way, much hazard to shipping, and loss of time, were
incurred; and when overtaken with gales of wind, such vessels were unable
to avail themselves of the numerous bays and anchorages of the Highlands;
—considerations of much importance to heavy laden ships, but especially to
the smaller classes of coasting and fishing vessels. It therefore appeared,
that nothing but the erection of Lighthouses, by which the mariner might
identify the land under night, would render this navigation at all a safe one.
Representations had often been made by shipmasters to
Proposition of a
Light-house Board.
their owners, of the difficulties and dangers
encountered in sailing along the coast of Scotland. The
establishment of a Light-house Board, and the erection of Light-houses on
our Northern Shores, became the topic of conversation among mercantile
men; and the subject was at length brought forward at the meeting of the
Convention of the Royal Boroughs of Scotland, in the year 1784, by the late
Mr Dempster of Dunnichen, then Provost of Forfar, and Member of
Parliament, as worthy of the notice of the Legislature.
A bill was accordingly framed by the late Mr John
Passing of the
Original Act, 1786.
Gray, writer to the Signet, agent for the Royal
Boroughs, which was brought into Parliament by Mr
Dempster, in the session of 1786. By this act, the 26th Geo. III. chap. 101.,
a Board was appointed, for the erection of Light-houses on the coast of
Scotland; the preamble stating that “it would conduce greatly to the security
of navigation and the fisheries, if four lighthouses were erected in the

northern parts of Great Britain,” viz. one on Kinnaird Head, in
Aberdeenshire; one on the Orkney Islands; one on the Harris Isles, and one
at the Mull of Kintyre, in Argyleshire; for which a duty of one penny per
register ton, for British, and twopence per ton upon foreign ships, should be
paid by every ship or decked vessel which should pass one or all of these
lights.
The Commissioners appointed for putting this act in
Commissioners ex execution, are, “His Majesty’s Advocate and Solicitor-
Officio.
General for Scotland; the Lord Provost and First Bailie
of Edinburgh; the Lord Provost and First Bailie of Glasgow; the Provosts of
Aberdeen, Inverness and Campbeltown; the Sheriffs of the Counties of
Edinburgh, Lanark, Renfrew, Bute, Argyle, Inverness, Ross, Orkney,
Caithness, and Aberdeen;” and to these have since been added, the Sheriffs
of the Counties of Ayr, Fife, Forfar, and Wigton, agreeably to a clause
which authorises the Commissioners to add to their number.
The first meeting of the Commissioners was held at
First Meeting of the
Board.
Edinburgh on the 1st day of August 1786; and consisted
of the following members:
His Majesty’s Solicitor-General, Robert Dundas of Arniston.
The Lord Provost of Edinburgh, Sir James Hunter-Blair, Bart.
The First Bailie of Edinburgh, James Dickson, Esq.
The Sheriff of the County of Bute, Bannatyne Macleod, Esq.
The Sheriff of the County of Aberdeen, Alexander Elphinston, Esq.
The Sheriff of the County of Lanark, Sir William Honyman, Bart.
The meeting having elected Sir James Hunter-Blair to
Mode of raising
Funds.
be their Preses, and appointed Mr Gray to be their
Secretary, deliberated upon the measures to be taken for
giving effect to the statute. The first object of the Board was to borrow the
sum of L. 1200, which they were authorised to raise. As all the
Commissioners were acting ex officio, it was suggested, that the most
convenient method of arranging the security for the funds to be borrowed,
would be for the Magistrates of the five boroughs mentioned in the act to
become security, upon assignment of the duties leviable for the lights,—a
mode which was accordingly adopted.

The preses informed the meeting, that he had
Progress of Northern corresponded with persons the most likely to afford
Light-houses.
information relative to the best construction of Light-
houses, and had received answers from Liverpool to a
Information about
Light-houses. variety of queries regarding Light-houses, where the
use of coal-fires had been laid aside, and where oil
lights, with reflectors, had been introduced: That he had also got various
plans and estimates for Light-houses lighted with oil: That the Chamber of
Commerce of Edinburgh had furnished a plan of the Light-house on the
Island of May, in the Firth of Forth, and also a description of the light on
the Island of Cumbraes, in the Firth of Clyde, both of which were then open
coal-fires: In particular, that he had received from the late Mr Thomas Smith
of Edinburgh, plans and observations on the construction of Light-houses
with Lamps and Reflectors; which having been ultimately approved of, Mr
Smith was nominated Engineer to the Board. After appointing a Committee
for preparing matters for a general meeting, they adjourned till the 23d of
January 1787.
In pursuance of the act of Parliament, the
Transactions of 1787.
Commissioners gave directions that a correspondence
should be opened with the several proprietors of the
land where the four original Light-houses were specified to be erected. An
answer was immediately received from Mr Traill of Westness in Orkney,
requesting the Board’s free acceptance of the ground necessary for erecting
the Light-house proposed for the Northern Isles of Orkney, on any part of
his property. Application was made to the Duke of Argyle, as to the ground
for the erection of a Light-house on the Mull of Kintyre; to Lord Saltoun,
relative to the station of Kinnaird-Head, in Aberdeenshire; and to Mr
Macleod of Harris, as to the site of a Light-house on Island Glass. Measures
were also taken for obtaining fit persons to contract for erecting the
necessary buildings, and for conducting the operations at the different
stations.

Kinnaird Head.

The result of the correspondence with Lord Saltoun, was the purchase of the
old building of Kinnaird Castle from his Lordship, on which a lantern or

light-room was erected. After encountering
Kinnaird-Head Light- considerable difficulties in the outset of this
house.
establishment, the house was got ready for the
exhibition of the light by the month of December 1787, and the following
notice to mariners was officially given by the Secretary in the London
Gazette, and in the Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Aberdeen newspapers.
“By order of the Commissioners appointed by Act of Parliament for
erecting four Light-houses in the northern parts of Great Britain, a Light-
house is now erected on Kinnaird Castle, at Kinnaird-Head, near
Fraserburgh, in the county of Aberdeen, Lat. 57° 42´, and Long. 2° 19´ West
of London, Cairnbulg from the Light-house bearing, by compass, S.E.,
distant 2 miles; and Trauphead W.NW., distant 9 miles. The lantern is 120
feet above the level of the sea at high-water, and will be seen from SE. to
W.NW. and intermediate points of the compass on the north of these points.
The lantern will be lighted on the night of the first day of December 1787,
and every night thereafter, from the going away of day-light in the evening
till the return of day-light in the morning.”

Mull of Kintyre.

At the Mull of Kintyre, one of the most inaccessible
Mull of Kintyre
Light-house.
and difficult of the Northern Light-house stations, the
buildings were nearly prepared for the light-room by
the month of November; but the season being too far advanced, and it
appearing from Mr Smith’s report, that there would be some risk in
conveying the apparatus to the light-house at this inclement season, the
Commissioners resolved to delay the further progress of the work at Kintyre
till the following spring.
The operations at the Mull of Kintyre were
1788.
recommenced in the month of April, but, owing chiefly
to the inaccessible great difficulty that was experienced
in transporting the building materials connected with the lantern or light-
room, over the mountainous district of Kintyre, it was the month of October
before the light could be announced for exhibition, when public
advertisement was made of the lighting of the house to the following effect.

“The Mull of Kintyre Light-house is situated immediately above the rocks
known to mariners by the name of The Merchants, in North Lat. 55° 17´,
and Long. 5° 42´ west of London; the eastern entrance of the Sound of Isla,
bearing from the Light-house by compass, N. by E., distant 33 miles; the
Mull of Kinho in the Island of Isla N. NW., distant 25 miles; and the
northern extremity of Rathlin Island, on the coast of Ireland, NW. ½ W.
distant 13 miles; the Maiden Rocks S. by W. ½ W., distant 21 miles; and
Copland Light-house S. by W. ½ W., distant 40 miles. The light-room is
elevated 240 feet above the medium level of the sea, and will be seen from
N. NE. to S. by W., and all intermediate points of the compass north of
these points. The light will be exhibited on the 1st day of December 1788,
and every night thereafter, from the going away of day-light in the evening
till the return of day-light in the morning.”
In the progress of the works of the Northern Light-
Light-house duty too
small.
houses, it soon became evident, from the diminished
state of the funds, that the light-house duty of 1d. per
ton upon British vessels, and 2d. upon foreign bottoms, was too small. By
the original act, also, this duty was only to be levied after the whole of the
lights at the four stations had been exhibited to mariners; but the Board
having found that it would be expedient to commence the collection of the
duties so soon as two were lighted, resolved on applying to Parliament for a
new act.
A bill was accordingly brought into the House of
Act of 1788.
Commons by Sir Ilay Campbell, M. P., when Lord
Advocate for Scotland, and ex officio one of the
Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, which passed in the session
of 1788, empowering the Commissioners to levy a duty of 1½d., or one
halfpenny more per ton upon British ships, and 3d., or one penny per ton
additional upon foreigners; and, in the mean time, to commence collecting
half duties till the whole of the four light-houses mentioned in the former
act were lighted, when the full duties were to become exigible. Already
about L. 4000 had been expended on the light-houses of Kinnaird-Head and
Kintyre. By this new act, however, the Commissioners being empowered to
borrow a further sum of L. 3000, were not only enabled to forward the
operations already commenced, but, with this additional duty, it was

expected that they would soon be in a condition to answer the calls of the
shipping interest for additional erections on the coast.

Island Glass.

Considerable progress had been made in the course of
1789.
the former season with the erection of the Light-house
at Island Glass in Harris, which was finished and
lighted on the 10th day of October 1789, the following being its
specification:—The Point of Island Glass, one of the Harris Isles, is situated
in North Lat. 57° 50´, and Long. 6° 33´ west of London. Ru-Ushiness bears
from the light-house, per compass, E. NE. ½ E., distant 8 miles; northern
extremity of Shiant Isles E., ½ S., southern extremity of ditto E. by S. ½ S.,
distant 11 miles; Skerne Rock SE., ½ E., distant 3 miles; Skergraidish Rock
S. SE. ¼ E., distant 9 miles; Point of Trotternish in Sky S. SE. ¼ E., distant
16 miles; Point of Vaternish S. SW. ¼ W., distant 15 miles; Dunvegan-Head
SW. ½ S., distant 20 miles; Point of Roudil, at the entrance of the Sound of
Harris, W. by S., distant 14 miles. The light-room is elevated 70 feet above
the medium level of the sea, and will be seen from E. NE. ½ E., from W. by
S., and intermediate points of the compass south of these points.
While the works of Island Glass were proceeding, a
North Ronaldsay
Light-house.
light-house was also erected, and lighted 10th October
1789, on the island of North Ronaldsay, in Orkney; but,
as the light at this station was afterwards removed to the neighbouring
island of Sanday, it will fall more properly to be noticed in the form of a
Tower or Beacon, into which the building was converted, after a Light-
house had been established at the Start Point of Sanday.

Pladda.

The erection of the four light-houses of Kinnaird Head,
Application for North Ronaldsay, Island Glass, and the Mull of Kintyre,
Pladda Light-house.
completed the operations of the Northern Light-house
Board, referred to in the original act of 1786; and at the time of passing that

act, it was not foreseen that a greater number would be required on the coast
of Scotland for a series of years. But the benefit of the lights which had
already been erected, in affording much greater safety and facility to the
mariner in those dangerous seas, became so apparent, that they were no
sooner exhibited than applications from different quarters for new erections
followed. Among these, a memorial was presented to the Commissioners by
the Merchants’ House of Greenock, accompanied by a letter from the
Chamber of Commerce of Glasgow, setting forth the advantages which the
shipping of the Clyde would derive from the erection of a light-house upon
the small island of Pladda, situated at the southern extremity of the island of
Arran, and entrance of the Firth of Clyde. This memorial concluded by
requesting, that the Commissioners would “take such measures as should to
them seem most proper, for procuring an act of Parliament, in order to carry
the erection of a light-house on the island of Pladda into execution as soon
as possible.”
An act was accordingly obtained, in the session of
Act of 1789.
1789, not only for the erection of Pladda Light-house,
but for extending the powers of the Commissioners to
the erection of such other light-houses on the coast of Scotland as to them
should seem necessary, whenever the free produce of the duties of 1½d. and
3d. per ton respectively on British and foreign ships should enable the
Board to do so. In consequence of the act of 1788,
Collectors appointed.
authorising the collection of half duties so soon as two
of the four light-houses mentioned in the original act
should be lighted, collectors at the different customhouses of all the ports of
Great Britain were appointed to receive the Northern Light-house duty, and
for their trouble they were to be paid at the rate of 10 per cent. upon the
sums they should respectively receive: But the business being scarcely
organized in 1789, and only half duties being exigible, the whole money
collected in that year amounted but to L. 290:14:6, and even this small sum
formed part of two years’ collection. From the smallness of the duties, and
the extent of the operations which the Commissioners had now on hand,
they were much pressed for the necessary funds, and but for the liberality of
their bankers Sir William Forbes and Company, the operations of the Board
must have been greatly hampered. Indeed, Sir James Hunter Blair, one of
the partners of that house, when Lord Provost of Edinburgh, and ex officio a
member of the Board, had been highly instrumental in forwarding the

establishment of the Northern Light-houses; and it was, perhaps, from such
adventitious circumstances, together with the economy of the measures
originally pursued, that the progress of the Light-house works proceeded,
without experiencing any interruption from want of funds.
1790. The light-house of Pladda was finished in the course of
the year 1790, and lighted on the 1st day of October. As
before noticed, it is situated in the Firth of Clyde, on the small island of
Pladda, near the south-west point of the island of Arran, in North Lat. 55°
30´ and Long. 5° 4´ west of London; the entrance of Campbeltown Loch
bearing, by compass, W.NW. ¼ N., distant 18 miles; Island of Sana W.,
distant 20 miles; Craig of Ailsa SW. by S., distant 15 miles; entrance to
Loch Ryan S.SW., distant 25 miles; and the Heads of Ayr E.SE., distant 16
miles. The light-room is elevated above the medium level of the sea 70 feet;
and the light is seen from NE. by E. to NW. by W. and intermediate points
of the compass south of these points.
In order to distinguish Pladda Light-house from the
1791.
light upon the Promontory of Kintyre on the one hand,
and that upon the island of Cumbrae, further up the
Distinguishing light at Firth of Clyde, and also from the Copeland light on the
Pladda.
Irish coast, it was found necessary, in the course of the
year 1791, to erect a small Light-room, immediately under the principal
light, that, by shewing two distinct lights at this station, the one 20 feet
higher than the other, it might be distinguishable from those above alluded
to. This small light-room being rather of a temporary construction, the
Board have it in view to erect one upon a more efficient plan, when certain
repairs which are in contemplation at Pladda shall be made.
The Northern Light-houses being situated in parts of
Annual supply and
inspection of the
the country remote and inaccessible, it became
Lights. necessary to arrange some systematic and proper plan
for managing the ordinary business of the Board,
which, at this time, had only one stated meeting, held by act of Parliament
in the month of July annually. A special meeting was accordingly convened
by the Secretary, in the month of March 1791; at which there were present,
the Lord Advocate of Scotland; the Lord Provost of Edinburgh; the Sheriff
of Aberdeen; the Sheriff of Renfrew; and the Sheriff of Orkney, Mr Charles
Hope, now Lord President of the Court of Session. This meeting having

taken into consideration the proper mode of supplying the light-houses, and
of attending to the conduct of the light-keepers, it was resolved, That the
engineer should charter a vessel annually, to carry a full complement of
stores and other necessaries for the use of the lights, and such artificers,
implements and materials as might, from time to time, be found necessary
for making repairs at the light-houses; and also, that the engineer should
annually visit each light-house, and report upon the state and condition of
the buildings, and upon the conduct of the respective light-keepers in
keeping the lights, and in the management of the stores and appurtenances
committed to their charge; with power to dismiss them for neglect of duty.
The light-keepers already engaged in the service, had
Light-keepers’ Salary.
been verbally informed by the engineer, that they would
be paid L. 30 of yearly salary; and this meeting having
before it a range of salaries paid to light-keepers both in England and
Scotland, varying from L. 20 to upwards of L. 70, it was resolved, That in
ordinary situations, the salary of the light-keepers in the service of the
Northern Light-houses should be L. 30 per annum, with a piece of garden-
ground and pasture for a cow, and a sufficient quantity of fuel for the use of
their families.
In consequence of this arrangement, a vessel of about
First voyage of the 100 tons burden was chartered and fitted out with stores
Engineer.
and other necessaries for the use of the Northern Light-
houses; and in the course of the summer of 1791, Mr Smith made his first
annual visit by sea to the light-houses—the journeys of the engineer having
hitherto been performed chiefly by land. On this voyage, every thing was
reported to be in good order at the several stations, excepting at the Light-
house of North Ronaldsay, which he found to be very improperly kept: it
appeared also that the light-keeper at this station had been embezzling the
stores committed to his charge. This person was formerly a ship-master,
who, finding it difficult to get employment in the line of his profession, had
been very improperly recommended to the attention of the Light-house
Board. Under circumstances of such misconduct, the
Light-house keeper engineer immediately dismissed him from the service,
dismissed the service.
and his conduct was further taken cognizance of by the
Sheriff of the county.

The business of the Light-houses was now so arranged,
Economical plan of that matters went on in a very prosperous and
the early Light-
houses. successful manner. So well, indeed, had the plans and
buildings of their engineer been considered, and made
to meet the slender funds of the Board, that, with an expenditure of little
more than L. 10,000, five lights had been exhibited upon the coast. Though
these buildings were unavoidably very much circumscribed in their
accommodations, and even temporary in their construction, yet the speedy
exhibition of the lights was of great benefit to navigation, while the
improving state of the light-house duties enabled the Commissioners to
extend their influence along a greater range of coast; and the different
buildings have since been enlarged and completed in a much more
substantial manner, by applying the surplus funds to these purposes.
In the year 1793, the prosperous state of funds induced
1793.
and enabled the Commissioners to attend to the
applications of mariners for additional light-houses on
Application for the coast. In particular a letter, to be afterwards more
additional light-
houses. fully noticed, was addressed to the Light-house Board
by Admiral Sir Alexander Cochrane, then commanding
his Majesty’s ship Hind upon the Leith station, setting forth the great
benefit that would accrue to shipping, from the erection of a light-house
upon the Bell Rock. Representations were likewise made at this time by the
merchants of Liverpool, regarding the propriety of erecting a light-house
upon the Skerries, situated in the middle of the Pentland Firth , which
separates the Orkney Islands from the Mainland of Caithness. The object of
a light here, was to open this Firth as a passage to shipping in general, and
to enable the mariner to avoid a circuitous and dangerous voyage to the
northward of the Orkney Islands.
At this period, however, the Commissioners could not
State of the Light-
house funds.
venture to undertake a work of such magnitude and
difficulty, as the erection of a light-house upon the Bell
Rock. The amount of the light-house duties at first was extremely limited;
and though in a progressive state, yet, for 1789, as before stated, they only
amounted to L. 249:14:6. For 1790, the sum was L. 1477:5:1; for 1791, it
was L. 2736:9:2; for 1792, it rose to L. 3160:18:1. But in the year 1793, of
which we are now treating, the duties rather declined, and they only netted

L. 2868, 3s. 5d. The Commissioners were nevertheless enabled to pay off
L. 4200, which, by the acts of 1786 and 1788, they had been empowered to
borrow, and likewise to discharge the advances made by Sir William Forbes
and Company; still leaving a balance of about L. 2000 of surplus duties in
the hands of their treasurer. The funds being, therefore, still very limited,
and only in a condition to enable the Board to erect a light-house of the
ordinary construction, the erection of the light-house on the Pentland
Skerries was resolved on; and the further consideration of the Bell Rock
light-house reserved, until the funds should be in a more advanced state.

Pentland Skerries.

Some difference of opinion arising among the
Regarding the site of
the Pentland Firth
gentlemen and merchants of Orkney, whether the light-
Light-house. house proposed for the Pentland Skerries should not
rather be erected upon the island of Copinsha, situate
about fifteen miles northward of the Portland Firth , the matter was referred
to the opinion of the Association of Ship-owners of Liverpool, and to the
Chambers of Commerce of Glasgow and Greenock, when these public
bodies unanimously and strongly recommended the erection of the light-
house on the Pentland Skerries, as the site best calculated for a direction to
the Pentland Firth ; which was accordingly fixed upon by the Board. To
mark this Light-house from the other lights upon the coast, it was necessary
to make it a Distinguishing-light, which was effected by the erection of a
higher and lower light-house tower, respectively 80 and 100 feet above the
medium level of the sea, built at the distance of 60 feet asunder, and each
having a light-room with reflectors, so as to show two distinct stationary
lights, for as yet the Revolving-light had not been introduced upon this
coast.
The works at the Pentland Skerries were begun early in
1794.
the spring of 1794. The masonry was executed by
builders of Orkney; and the materials having been
The author’s first prepared, were partly landed on these small islands in
voyage to the north.
the course of the preceding summer. The Skerries
consist of two uninhabited islands, with some contiguous sunken rocks.
They lie exposed to the uninterrupted force of the waves of the North Sea,

and to the rapid tides and currents of the Pentland Firth , and present many
convincing proofs of the wasting state of the land, by the action of the sea.
The works here had been so laid out, that the towers should be in readiness
for the erection of the light-rooms by the month of August; and it was
expected that the lights would be ready for exhibition in the month of
October. The author, to whose superintendance the completing of these
light-houses was to be entrusted, as his first work for the Board, sailed from
Leith on this service on the 2d July 1794; and after touching at Kinnaird
Head Light-house, he landed at the Pentland Skerries on the 11th of that
month, and found the masonry of the two light-house towers in such a state
of forwardness, as to be then nearly ready for the light-rooms. In the month
of September, these works were completed, and the lights were exhibited on
the 1st day of October 1794.
These lights are from oil, with reflectors, and may be described as erected
on the largest of the Pentland Skerries, in Lat. 58° 43´ and Long. 3° 3´ west
of London; the northmost or highest light-room being elevated 100 feet, and
the lower light-room 80 feet above the medium level of the sea. The two
light-rooms, relatively to each other, bear S. SW. and N. NE., distant 60
feet. The bearings, as taken from the highest light-room, by compass, are
the western extremity of the Little Pentland Skerry S. by W., distant 1¼
mile; extremity of the foul ground off that Skerry SE., distant 1½ mile;
Duncan’s Bay Head in Caithness; W. SW. distant 4½ miles; Noss Head SW.
by W., distant 14 miles; northmost point of the Island of Stroma NW. by W.,
distant 6½ miles; south-western extremity of the Loather Rock on the
Orkney shore N. by W., distant 3½ miles; Island of Copinsha NE. by E. ¼
E., distant 17 miles.
The author, having remained to complete the works at
Loss of the sloop
Elizabeth.
the Pentland Skerries, and to see the house lighted,
sailed from Orkney on the 9th of October, in the sloop
Elizabeth of Stromness. On the following day, the vessel got within three
miles of Kinnaird Head Light-house, in Aberdeenshire; but the wind having
suddenly shifted to the south-east, Mr Sinclair, the master, with much
attention and kindness, landed the author, who continued his journey to
Edinburgh by land. A very different fate, however, awaited his shipmates;
for the Elizabeth having put back to Cromarty Roads, was afterwards driven
to Orkney, and ultimately lost, when all on board perished.

In the affairs connected with the erection of light-
Mr Balfour and Mr houses in Orkney, Mr Balfour of Elwick, and Mr
Riddoch presented
Riddoch, collector of the customs at Kirkwall, having
with pieces of Plate.
respectively taken much friendly interest and trouble in
the advancement of the Light-house works in the Orkney islands, the
Commissioners of the Light-houses presented a small piece of plate to each
of these gentlemen, with a suitable inscription, in testimony of the services
they had thus rendered to the public.
Some inconveniency having been experienced in
Act for Incorporatingconducting the business of the Light-house Board, in
the Commissioners.
consequence of its not being an incorporated body, and
not having a common seal, particularly in the holding of stock and other
property, in laying out and investing the surplus funds arising from the
light-house duties, application was made to Parliament, and an act passed in
1798, 38th Geo. III. c. 57. erecting the Commissioners into a Board or
Body-politic, by the name of “The Commissioners of the Northern Light-
houses;” and under that title to have perpetual succession, and hold a
common seal.
After the completion of these two light-houses on the
Additional Works at
Pentland Skerries in 1794, a period of ten years elapsed
the first erected Light-
houses. before the erection of any additional light-house was
undertaken on the coast of Scotland. This delay was
rendered necessary, chiefly on account of the necessity of extending the
accommodation of the light-keepers at the different stations,—in making
landing places and roads,—enclosing grounds,—and, in short, putting the
whole establishment of the light-houses into a more complete and finished
state.
In the mean time, several propositions for new light-
Light-House proposed
as a direction for
houses were brought under the notice of the
Cromarty Firth . Commissioners. In the year 1797, for example, the late
Mr Dempster of Dunnichen proposed the erection of a
light-house as a direction for the entrance of Cromarty Firth , one of the
principal inlets for shipping on the eastern coast of Great Britain. Mr
Dempster also suggested, in connection with this, that a Beacon should be
erected, and a floating buoy moored, to point out the dangerous channel of
Dornoch Firth , which is too often fatally mistaken for the entrance to

Cromarty Firth . The proposition of a beacon and buoy for Dornoch, was
considered by the Commissioners as not strictly in the high seas, and
therefore not properly belonging to the concerns of the Board, and, together
with the light-house, were delayed for the present, that attention might be
paid to more urgent demands on other parts of the coast.
Notwithstanding the benefit derived from the erection
Proposition for of Kinnaird Head light-house, shipwrecks were still
altering the site of
Kinnaird Head Light- occurring on a dangerous reef of rocks called Rattray
House. Brigs, situate about 12 miles southward of Kinnaird
Head, and 6 miles north of Peterhead. In the year 1798,
petitions were presented to the Commissioners from certain merchants and
traders, setting forth, that the light-house upon Kinnaird Head would be
much more beneficial to shipping, were it removed to Rattray Head. This
matter was remitted to the author to report upon, who accordingly made a
survey of this part of the coast. After maturely considering the subject, it
was deemed advisable to decline the removal of the light-house from
Kinnaird Head, which was found to be extremely useful for directing ships
into the Moray and Cromarty Friths, and also to vessels making the land
from the northward. Although it might not, perhaps, be so useful to coasters
bound from the south, yet the Commissioners found, that it would be better,
under all circumstances, to preserve Kinnaird Head as a light-house station,
and, at some future period, to erect an additional light upon this important
part of the coast, at or near Peterhead, in a position calculated to be useful
as a guide for the sunken reef of Rattray Brigs, and also for the south-
eastern shores of Aberdeenshire.

Start Point Beacon.

Among the several applications brought before the
1801.
Board for additional light-houses, something still
appeared to be necessary for averting the misfortunes
Numerous Wrecks on which were annually happening on the low shores of
the Island of Sanday.
the Northern Isles of Orkney. It had now been found, by
the experience of about twelve years, that the light-house of North
Ronaldsay was not calculated to prevent the numerous wrecks on the
islands of Sanday and Stronsay. In the year 1796, when the author was on

his annual visit to the Northern Light-houses, he was struck at seeing the
wreck of three homeward-bound ships upon the island of Sanday, though
situate only about eight miles southward of the light-house of North
Ronaldsay. Again, in 1797, he found one wrecked ship on Sanday; but in
1798 he saw the remains of no fewer than five vessels upon that fatal
island; and, in the month of December 1799, two of the numerous vessels
which were driven from Yarmouth Roads in a dreadful gale of wind at
south-east, were also wrecked there. The author having laid this continued
and alarming state of things before the Light-house Board, in his annual
report of 1801, it was resolved, that a beacon or tower of masonry should be
erected upon the Start Point or eastern extremity of the low shores of the
island of Sanday; the building to be constructed in such a manner that it
might, if found necessary, be converted into a light-house.
In the year 1802, the author sailed on his annual voyage
1802.
to the Northern Light-houses so early as the 14th of
April, in the Pharos of Leith, carrying with him a
Proofs of a severe foreman and sixteen artificers, to commence the works
winter in Orkney.
of the Start Point Tower. After rather a boisterous
passage, the vessel reached Orkney in six days, and, at this advanced period
of the season, these Islands were found covered to the depth of six inches
with snow. This, at any time, is rather uncommon in Orkney; but such had
been the severity of the season in the northern regions, that a flock of wild
swans which, in severe winters, visit this country, were still seen in
considerable numbers upon the fresh-water lakes of Sanday. These large
birds are supposed to migrate from Iceland, but are rarely seen here later
than the month of March, so that their appearance in the latter end of the
month of April, was considered by the Orcadians as a mark of a very severe
and long-continued winter in the higher latitudes.
It having been ascertained that there was no workable
Quarries at Sanday
and Eda.
sandstone on the island of Sanday, where the Beacon
was to be erected, permission was granted by Mr Laing,
the proprietor of the contiguous island of Eda, to open a quarry at Calf
Sound, where sandstone of a pretty good quality was obtained. With a view
to render this building substantially water-tight, it had been originally
intended to make it wholly of hewn stone, built in regular courses,
technically called ashlar or aisler-work, a term derived from the aisle of a

church, where this sort of masonry predominates; but the quarry of Eda
being about fourteen miles distant from the work, the stones had to be
brought by sea through rapid tides; and there being but indifferent creeks or
havens both at the quarry and at the Start Point, it was found necessary to
make only the principal stones of hewn-work, while the body of the work
was executed in ruble-building, for which excellent materials were got at
the Start Point, the property of the Right Honourable Lord Dundas,
consisting of sandstone-slate, of a greyish-smoke colour, intermixed with
shining particles of mica. The rock here is disposed in strata, from 1 to 8
inches in thickness, and could easily be raised in pieces containing from 15
to 20 square feet. Indeed, the encroachments of the sea
Encroachments of the had heaped up immense quantities of these schistose
Sea upon the Land.
stones at high-water mark, all round the Start Point, the
shores of which appeared like the ruins of the wall of some large city. These
stones, however, were more applicable for the purposes
Of Ruble Building. of dike-building, or interior walls, than for external
work; for, after having been exposed on the beach for
ages to the alternate changes of moisture and dryness, heat and cold, they
were found to have many small fissures, or were split horizontally; and
although the pieces still seemed to adhere closely, yet they were sufficiently
open to admit moisture into the heart of the walls, which, in these stormy
and exposed situations, is forced through the building: hence it is, that
houses built with drift-stones of this description, are said by the cottagers of
these islands to keep out moisture much better when built with puddle or
clay, than with the best lime-mortar, which, under certain circumstances, is
known to attract moisture, while the clay resists it. But after all the care that
can be taken in building with these slaty stones, even when taken fresh from
the quarry, they still have a tendency to split into lamellæ, after they are
built in the walls. Experienced builders, therefore, generally lay the outward
stones of such walls with a slight inclination downwards, or dip, as the
workmen term it, the more readily to prevent the admission of wetness. I
have been thus particular, because it is hardly possible
Houses built with to prevent walls built of these materials from drawing
Double walls.
moisture, until they have been rough cast,—an
operation which is so very troublesome, from requiring to be occasionally
renewed, that I have found it necessary, in these exposed situations, to build

the outward walls double, as the only effectual method of obtaining a
comfortable house free of dampness.
Laying the foundationThe weather continued to be so extremely boisterous
stone of Beacon. here, that it was the middle of the month of May before
a sufficient stock of materials was laid down for
commencing the building at the Start Point. A wish having been expressed
by the workmen, to have the foundation-stone of the Beacon laid with
masonic ceremony; and considering the dreary prospect which the artificers
had before them, the author was the more willing to embrace so fair an
opportunity of affording them the enjoyment of a little convivial happiness.
The influx of so many strangers to the island of Sanday for this work, and
the novelty of the intended ceremony, made the news soon find its way to
every house. Preparations were accordingly made;—the year of our Lord
1802, was cut upon the foundation-stone, in which a hole was perforated for
depositing a glass phial, containing a small parchment scroll, setting forth
the intention of the building; the official constitution of the Commissioners
of the Northern Light-houses; and the name of their Engineer. It also
contained several of the current coins of George III. in gold, silver, and
copper. The day fixed for the ceremony was the 15th of May. The weather
was dry and tolerably agreeable, though cold, with snow upon the ground;
the thermometer by Fahrenheit’s scale indicating 35° in the shade at noon.
A number of the principal inhabitants, and a crowd of cottagers assembled.
Things being arranged for the ceremony, the author, assisted by Mr James
Cleghorn, foreman for the works, applied the square and plummet-level to
the foundation-stone, in compliance with the ancient custom of the craft.
The phial was then deposited in the cavity prepared for it in the stone, and
carefully covered up with sand, when the masonic ceremony concluded in
the usual manner. The Reverend Walter Traill, minister of the parish, who
obligingly attended on this occasion, now stood forward, and, after a most
impressive prayer, imploring the blessing of heaven upon the intended
purposes of the building, delivered an address, which, from the singularity
of the subject, and the excellency of the matter, shall here be inserted.
“This moment is auspicious. The foundation-stone is
Rev. Walter Trail’slaid of a building of incalculable value;—a work of use,
Address.
not of luxury. Pyramids were erected by the pride of
kings, to perpetuate the memory of men, whose ambition enslaved and

desolated the world. But it is the benevolent intention of our Government,
on this spot to erect a tower, not to exhaust, but to increase the wealth, and
protect the commerce of this happy kingdom.—To the goodness of God, in
the first place, we are indebted for a degree of prosperity unknown to other
nations. In the next place, we owe our happiness to our insular situation,
and attention to maritime affairs. Faction and civil war have, at this period,
laid waste the fairest countries of Europe; while peace has flourished within
our walls. Agriculture, commerce, and their kindred arts, have prospered in
our land. British oak hath triumphed; victory hath been attached to the
British flag; and British fleets have ridden triumphant on the wings of the
wind.—Consider the great national objects for which this building will be
erected. To protect commerce, and to guard the lives of those intrepid men
who for us cheerfully brave the fury of the waves, and the rage of battle.
The mariner, when he returns to the embraces of his wife and children, after
ascribing praise to the Great Giver of safety, shall bless the friendly light
which guided him over the deep, and recommend to the protection of
heaven, those who urged, who planned, and who executed the work.—This
day shall be remembered with gratitude. It shall be recorded, that at the
beginning of a new century, the pious care of Government was extended to
this remote island. Those rocks, so fatal to the most brave and honourable
part of the community, shall lose their terror, and safety and life shall spring
from danger and death.—Even you, my friends, who are employed in the
execution of this work, are objects of regard and gratitude. You have, for a
season, left the society of your families and friends, to perform a work of
high interest to your country and to mankind. I am confident, that you will
act, in all respects, so as to deserve and obtain the esteem of the people who
now surround you. I hope that they will discharge to you every duty of
Christian hospitality, and that you will have no occasion to feel that you are
strangers in a strange land.—It becomes us to remember, that all the affairs
of men are dependent on Providence. We may exert talents and industry, but
God only can bless our exertions with success. Let our trust be in him. Let
us humbly hope that he will bless this day and this undertaking. Through his
aid, may there arise from this spot, a tower of safety and protection to the
mariner of every tongue and nation.”
The whole of this scene was very impressive; and the plain, decent, and
respectable appearance of the people collected on the occasion, was none of
the least interesting parts of it.

Having now got the works at the Start Point of Sanday
Beacon Completed. fairly commenced, and some progress made in opening
the quarries, the author left the Orkney Islands, and
continued his voyage westward to the other Light-houses on the coast.
Every thing having succeeded well at the Start Point, the Beacon was
finished in the month of September. It was terminated at the height of 100
feet above the medium level of the sea, with a circular ball of masonry
measuring fifteen feet in circumference.—But this tower having been
afterwards converted into a light-house, it seems to be unnecessary here to
enter into a more particular specification of the building.

Inchkeith Light-house.

Much inconveniency had been experienced, and many
1803.
fatal accidents had occurred, in the Firth of Forth, from
the want of a light to direct ships past the island of
Inchkeith into the Roads of Leith. In the course of the winter of 1801, from
this cause, a very severe misfortune happened at the rocks lying off
Kinghornness, on the Fifeshire coast, by the loss of the smack Aberdeen,
Freeman, master, one of the traders bound from Aberdeen to London. This
vessel had been put up the Firth in a storm, loaded with a general cargo,
which was valued at upwards of L. 10,000, and had on board 13 passengers,
besides the ship’s crew, all of whom perished, excepting the master, the
mate, and a lady. So very distressing an accident, with other instances of a
similar nature, produced a strong sensation with the public. It was also
found, that vessels which, by the direction of the light of May, had entered
the Firth of Forth in the course of a long winter night, could not yet venture
to hold on their course, up the Firth , owing to the difficulty of passing the
island of Inchkeith, and the foul and rocky ground in its neighbourhood.
The mariner was thus obliged to lie off and on in this narrow sea, without
being able to run for the anchorage of Leith Roads till day-light: but, before
morning, the wind perhaps had shifted; and, instead of being in a safe
anchorage, he was too often driven to sea. The author has, indeed, known of
a ship in this situation, which drifted before the wind even to the coast of
Norway.

It was from considerations of this kind that an
Inchkeith Light-house application was brought forward by the Corporation of
resolved on.
the Trinity House of Leith, for the erection of a light-
house upon Inchkeith; and the Commissioners of the Northern Light-
houses, also viewing Leith Roads as a naval station and rendezvous for his
Majesty’s ships on the North Sea station, resolved upon the propriety and
expediency of this measure in the year 1802. Various difficulties occurred
about procuring the ground necessary for this establishment, not indeed
with the noble proprietor of the island, the Duke of Buccleuch, who
forthwith ordered every facility to be given to the work; but time was lost in
arranging matters with his Grace’s agent. It was not, therefore, till the
summer of the year 1803, that the building on Inchkeith commenced, and
the masonry of the light-house was not ready for the light-room till the
following year, when the light was exhibited on the 1st day of September
1804. Its position is described as follows:
“The Light-house erected on the island of Inchkeith,
Description of
Inchkeith Light-
situate in the Firth of Forth and county of Mid-Lothian,
house. in North Lat. 56° 2´, and Long. 3° 8´. west of London,
is elevated 220 feet above the medium level of the sea,
of which height the building forms 45 feet. The light is from oil with
reflectors, and will be seen from every point of the compass as a Stationary
light” (since altered to a Revolving light, as shall be afterwards noticed).
“From the light-house Ely-ness bears, by compass, E. NE., distant 16 miles;
Light of May E. ½ N., distant 23 miles; Fidra Island E. by S., distant 14
miles; Craig Waugh Rock SE. by S. ½ S., distant 4¾ miles; Leith-Harbour
Light SW. ¼ S., distant 3½ miles; Gunnet Rock W., distant 1½ mile; Ox-
Scares W. by N. ½ N., distant 4½ miles; Inchcolm W. NW. ¼ N., distant 6½
miles; Pettycur Light N. NW. ¼ N., distant 2½ miles; Kinghorn-ness N.
NW. ¾ N. distant 2¼ miles.”
This light-house was originally proposed to have been
Originally proposed
made a double or leading light, to guide ships up the
to be a Leading light.
Firth , and especially past the dangerous rock called the
Ox-Scares, to the anchorage above Queensferry; but it was thought
advisable to erect a light, in the first instance, upon the top of the island,
and to defer the erection of a lower or western light till the effect of a single
light should be tried. Such, however, appears to have been the benefit of the

light on the top of the island, together with a cast-iron Beacon, which, at
this time, was erected on the Ox-Scares, that the want of a second light-
house on Inchkeith does not seem to have been much felt.
By the existing acts of Parliament, the light-house
Light duty for
Inchkeith modified.
Board is entitled to take the full duties of three
halfpence per ton, from the local trade of the Firth of
Forth, for the light of Inchkeith, instead of which, only one halfpenny per
ton is exacted from such vessels as are not liable to the duty, in consequence
of passing some other of the Northern Light-houses. The great utility of this
light-house, and the equitable and liberal manner in which these duties are
exacted, gave much satisfaction to the maritime and commercial interests of
the country.
It may here be proper to observe, that the erection of
Accommodation of
Light-keepers’ houses
Inchkeith Light-house, forms a new era in the works of
extended. the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses;
which, as formerly observed, had been necessarily
executed on the smallest, plainest and most simple plan that could be
devised, and with such materials as could be easily transported, and most
speedily erected, so as to meet the urgent calls of shipping, and answer the
very limited state of the funds. But from the thriving condition of the trade
of the country, the yearly duties which, in 1790, amounted only to
L. 1477:5:1; in the year 1802 encreased to L. 4386:7:5. It was, therefore,
considered advisable, from its being ultimately more economical, to erect
and finish the several works of the light-house Board in the most substantial
manner, and more like the buildings of a permanent National Establishment.
From the vicinity of Inchkeith to sandstone quarries, the
Houses covered with buildings there were executed of aislar masonry. A
leaden roofs.
platform roof covered with lead, and defended by a
parapet wall, was adopted for the light-keepers’ house, instead of a slated
roof, with garrets of the common construction; a slated roof being not only
more liable to be injured by high winds, but when the attic apartments of
such houses are occupied, the premises became more exposed to accident
from fire. The slated roof, with iron nails, is also
Disadvantage of subject to decay, owing to the saline particles with
slated roofs.
which the air is impregnated, and the sprays of the sea,
which, even in such situations as Inchkeith, are often blown over the island,

though the site of the light-house is about 175 feet in height. Indeed, at all
the original light-house stations in the north, the nails were soon rusted, and
the slates getting loose, were often blown off in great numbers, so that in
the very depth of Winter, the light-keepers have been obliged to make such
a requisition as the following: “A slater is much wanted here, to repair the
roof of the house, as upwards of 50 slates have been blown away during the
late gales.” Instead, also, of a dwelling-house consisting of only two small
apartments as formerly, the house at Inchkeith has four rooms, with other
conveniencies, laid out for the accommodation of the families of a principal
light-keeper and an assistant, who are now appointed to the charge of each
of the Northern Light-houses.
An entire change also took place at this period upon the
Construction of Light construction of the Light-rooms and the reflecting
rooms improved.
apparatus, as well as in the extension and enlargement
of the accommodation for the light-keepers. The early light-rooms were
constructed wholly of timber, excepting the window-sash frames, which
were made of cast-iron. The outside of the wooden cupola, covered with
sheet copper, and the ceiling and floor with fire-proof plates of tinned iron.
But it soon appeared that this construction was liable to great objections,
particularly to the risk of accidental fire. The timber roof being also
unavoidably shut up from the air, and exposed to a degree of heat sufficient
to dry it to the state of tinder, its strength and fibrous qualities were soon
lost, and the buildings in danger of being destroyed by the storms of winter.
At Inchkeith, on the contrary, the roof is framed of iron,
Rendered Fire-proof. and covered with copper, and the floor is laid with flag-
stones; while the window-frames, and all the materials
exposed to the immediate action of the weather, are made of copper; the
windows are glazed with plates of polished glass, measuring 29 inches by
18 inches, and ¼ of an inch in thickness, instead of sash panes of crown-
glass, measuring only 12 inches by 8 inches, by which so many astragals
were unavoidably introduced into the windows, that much of the light was
obstructed and lost.
The reflectors of the first of the Northern Light-houses
Reflectors of Silvered were formed to the parabolic curve, upon principles
Mirror-glass.
susceptible of considerable accuracy; their powers
were, however, small from their reflecting surfaces being composed of
facets of silvered mirror-glass, and one point only of each facet coinciding

with the curve of the parabola. As many of the rays are thus lost or
weakened by transmission through the glass of the reflector, the light is
much less brilliant than when reflected from a metallic speculum of a
uniform parabolic figure, of a more white and dense body, such as silver.
Another objection to mirror-glass reflectors, is the great number of
interstices or subdivisions between the pieces of glass, which unavoidably
induces a want of cleanliness and uniformity in the reflecting surface as a
whole. The improvement upon this part of the reflecting
Reflectors of Copper, apparatus, as more recently fitted up, consists in
plated with Silver.
employing sheets of copper, plated or coated with
silver, which, with much labour and great nicety of workmanship, are
formed as nearly as may be into the parabolic curve,—a subject to which
we shall again recur, in treating of the reflectors for the Bell Rock Light-
house. Instead, also, of whale oil, and the use of the
The use of Argand Common lamp, spermaceti oil, and the Argand lamp,
lamps and Spermaceti
Oil introduced. were introduced at Inchkeith. Upon these principles, all
the new erections of the Northern Light-houses are
constructed; and such of the original light-houses, as require considerable
repairs, are directed by the Board to be altered to the improved
construction. But the erection of such a light-house as that of Inchkeith, in
place of requiring an expenditure of only about L. 1000 like the original
establishments, cost upwards of L. 5000.
Inscription on The light-house of Inchkeith having been erected before
Inchkeith Light- the late Mr Smith, the author’s predecessor, had retired
house. from the situation of Engineer for the Northern Light-
houses, and being the first of the light-houses erected
upon the coast of Scotland on the recently improved principles, it is thought
proper to give a plan and elevation of the house and offices, in one of the
plates of this work, as a specimen of what is considered a very complete
light-house establishment. It may also be noticed here, that the elevation of
the light-house tower bears a tablet with the following inscription:—“For
the direction of Mariners, and for the benefit of Commerce, this Light-
house was erected by order of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-
houses. It was founded on the 18th day of May, in the year 1803, and
lighted on the 1st of September 1804. Thomas Smith, Engineer.”

As part of the establishment at Inchkeith, a guard-room
Pilots and is provided for pilots. In the event also of shipwreck
Shipwrecked Seamen
receive shelter. upon the coast, in the neighbourhood of any of the
light-house stations, from the more extended state of
the buildings, the unfortunate seamen are not only directed to be lodged in
the best manner that the circumstances of the case will admit, but, in
necessitous cases, ship-wrecked mariners have even been allowed a sum of
money by the Light-house Board, to clothe and carry them to their
respective homes. In this way, it has not unfrequently fallen to the lot of the
keepers of the Northern Light-houses, to save the lives of perishing seamen,
to succour many poor fishermen and pilots, as well as the half starved and
unlucky individuals of water parties, when driven by stress of weather to
these lone places of abode, for safety and shelter. In these varied forms, it
will not be too much to suppose, that the practice of protecting the
navigator in distress, which is said to have formed a chief part of the design
of the Fire Towers and Nautical Colleges of the ancients, is thus in some
measure restored.

Start Point Light-house.

Notwithstanding the precautions which had been taken
1806.
to prevent the frequent occurrence of shipwreck upon
the island of Sanday, by the erection of a Beacon or
Shipwrecks still take Tower of masonry on the Start Point, the loss of ships
place on Sanday.
did not appear to be diminished. It had even become
proverbial with some of the inhabitants to observe, “that if wrecks were to
happen, they might as well be sent to the poor island of Sanday as any
where else.” On this and the neighbouring islands, the inhabitants have
certainly had their share of wrecked goods; for here the eye is presented
with these melancholy remains in almost every form.
Striking examples of
this.
For example, although quarries are to be met with
generally in these islands, and the stones are very
suitable for building dikes, yet instances occur of the land being inclosed,
even to a considerable extent, with ship timbers. The author has actually
seen a park paled round, chiefly with cedar wood and mahogany from the
wreck of a Honduras built ship; and in one island, after the wreck of a ship

laden with wine, the inhabitants have been known to take claret to their
barley meal porridge, instead of their usual beverage. On complaining to
one of the pilots of the badness of his boat’s sails, he replied to the author
with some degree of pleasantry, “Had it been His (God’s) will that you
came na here wi’ these lights, we might a’ had better sails to our boats and
more o’ other things.” It may further be noticed, that when some of Lord
Dundas’s farms are to be let in these islands, a competition takes place for
the lease, and it is bona fide understood, that a much higher rent is paid than
the lands would otherwise give, were it not for the chance of making
considerably by the agency and advantages attending shipwrecks on the
shores of the respective farms. The author was so struck with some of these
circumstances, that he collected, and shall here insert a list of shipwrecks
for the twelve years immediately following the erection of North Ronaldsay
light-house, in procuring which he was obligingly assisted by the Rev.
William Grant, minister of Cross-kirk parish, including the island of North
Ronaldsay, and part of Sanday.
LIST OF WRECKS on the contiguous islands of North Ronaldsay,
List of Shipwrecks for Sanday and Stronsay, during a period of Twelve Years, immediately
Twelve Years. after the erection of North Ronaldsay Light-house, in 1789.

Year. Voyage. Cargo. Tonnage. Supposed Value of Ship
and Cargo.
1789. Norway to America, Spirits, &c. 150 L. 3500 0 0
1790. Hamburgh to do. Cordage, &c. 100 2800 0 0
1792. Norway to Wales, Wood and Iron, 90 1100 0 0
—— Sweden to Liverpool, Grain, 120 3100 0 0
—— Do. to Greenock, Timber, 400 3400 0 0
1793. Norway to Spain, Fish and Oil, 100 2000 0 0
Copenhagen to Santa
—— Silks, &c. 250 35,000 0 0
Cruz,
Copenhagen to
1794. Muslins, &c. 250 20,000 0 0
Surinam,
—— Do. to Dundee, Flax, &c. 90 2000 0 0
1795. Do. to America, Cloth, &c. 300 12,200 0 0
1796. Do. to Liverpool, Timber, 250 2500 0 0
—— Do. to Whitehaven, Timber, 150 1300 0 0
—— Liverpool to Ostend, Wine and Rum, 400 15,300 0 0
1797. Baltic to Liverpool, Grain, 120 3000 0 0
Timber and
1798. Sweden to Hull, 200 2500 0 0
Iron,
—— Norway to Liverpool. Timber, 200 1800 0 0

—— Do. to America, Cloth, &c. 200 5000 0 0
Spirits and
—— Altona to Do. 450 18,000 0 0
Cloth,
—— London to Gibraltar, Stores, 300 5000 0 0
1799. Do. to Dublin, Staves, 150 2200 0 0
Hamburgh to Cambric and
1800. 200 45,000 0 0
America, Linen,
—— Dantzic to Liverpool, Timber, 900 10,000 0 0
22 vessels wrecked in 12 years, supposed value L. 196,400 0 0
This list of shipwrecks strongly points out the
Start Point Tower dangerous nature of the navigation of the seas and friths
proposed to be
converted into a of the northern islands of Orkney. From a consideration
Light-house. of these numerous accidents, being almost at the rate of
two wrecks in the year, and seeing the mangled remains
of some fine ships which still appeared upon the island of Sanday, the
author was induced to bring this matter again under the notice of the
Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, in his report to the Board in
the year 1805, when he proposed that the Start Point Beacon should be
converted into a light-house, and that North Ronaldsay light should be
discontinued, and its tower converted into a beacon, as wrecks were found
to happen comparatively seldom upon that island, while hardly a year
passed without instances of this kind on the island of Sanday; for, owing to
the projecting points of this strangely formed island, the lowness and
whiteness of its eastern shores, and the wonderful manner in which the
scanty patches of land are intersected with lakes and pools of water, it
becomes even in day-light a deception, and has often been fatally mistaken
for an open sea. The removal of the light from North
North Ronaldsay Ronaldsay to Sanday, was also calculated to be equally,
Light-house to be
converted into a if not more, useful to the navigation of North
Beacon. Ronaldsay Firth ; the Start Point being only four miles
from the sunken rock called the Reef-dyke, as will be
seen from the general chart of the coast which accompanies this work. It
therefore appeared that if only a single light were allowed for the protection
of this coast, it would be much better upon Sanday than on North
Ronaldsay.
On this subject, however, the author was instructed to take the opinion of
persons acquainted with the navigation of these seas. Accordingly, when on
his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses, he submitted the subject to

the consideration of Mr William Ellis, Commander of
Opinion of persons the Ross Revenue Cutter, who had then been cruising
conversant with the
Navigation of these for several months off these islands, by order of
Seas. Government, for intelligence relative to the motions of
the Dutch fleet, which then threatened to attempt a
landing on the Western Coast of Ireland. It was also submitted to Mr
Riddoch, Collector, and Mr Manson, Comptroller of the Customs, at
Kirkwall; to Mr John Traill, Mr Fotheringham, and Mr Strang of Sanday;
and to the ship-masters of Kirkwall and Stromness. These gentlemen all
united in opinion as to the superior usefulness of a light upon the island of
Sanday.
This measure having been resolved on by the Board,
Light-house resolvedthe plans were remitted, with powers to proceed, to Mr
on.
William Rae, (now Sir William Rae, Bart. Lord
Advocate of Scotland,) who was then Sheriff of the county of Orkney. The
works at the Start Point were accordingly commenced early in the summer
of 1805; by the month of November the light-room was finished, and the
light exhibited on the 1st day of January 1806. Intimation was at the same
time given to the public, that the beacon or tower of masonry erected in the
year 1803, upon the island of Sanday, having been found insufficient for
preventing the numerous shipwrecks upon the low shores of that island, had
been converted into a light-house.
The Start Point of Sanday is situate in the county of
Description of Start
Point Light.
Orkney, in North Lat. 59° 20´, and Long. 2° 34´ west of
London, from which North Ronaldsay light-house
Tower bears by compass, N. NE. ½ E., distant 8 miles, and the Lamb Head
of Stronsay SW., distant 15 miles. The light at the Start Point is from oil
with reflectors, elevated 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, and is
visible from all points of the compass, at the distance of 15 miles, in a
favourable state of the atmosphere. To distinguish this light from the other
lights on this coast, it is known to mariners as a Revolving light, without
colour, exhibiting a brilliant light once in every minute, and becoming
gradually less luminous; to a distant observer it totally disappears. In this
manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, alternately shows a
brilliant light, and a light becoming fainter and more obscure, until it be
totally eclipsed.

The alteration of the Start Point beacon into a light-
The Foreman and house, and the erection of houses for the light-keepers,
Artificers sail for
were placed under the management of Mr George
Leith in the Traveller.
Peebles, an experienced mason, and executed with
every possible attention. When the works were completed, he, and such of
the artificers as had been retained, proceeded to Stromness on the mainland
of Orkney, from whence they were most likely to get a passage to the
southward. The party consisted of six in number; and Charles Peebles, the
foreman’s brother, wishing to go directly to his native place, took his
passage in a vessel bound from Stromness to Anstruther, while Mr George
Peebles, and the remaining four men, embarked on board of a schooner,
called the Traveller, Cruickshanks master, bound for Leith.
This vessel sailed with a fair wind early on the 24th of
The Traveller is
wrecked.
December 1806. On the following morning they got
sight of Kinnaird Head light-house, in Aberdeenshire,
and had the prospect of speedily reaching the Firth of Forth; but the wind
having suddenly shifted to the south-east, increased to a tremendous gale,
which did much damage on the coast. The Traveller immediately put about,
and steered in quest of some safe harbour in Orkney. At two o’clock in the
afternoon, she passed through the Pentland Firth , and got into the bay of
Long Hope; but could not reach the proper anchorage; and, at three o’clock,
both anchors were let go in an outer roadstead. The storm still continuing
with unabated force, the cables parted or broke, and the vessel drifted on the
island of Flotta. The utmost efforts of those on board to
Captain Manby’s
Apparatus much
pass a rope to the shore, with the assistance of the
wanted. inhabitants of the island, proved ineffectual, (for want
of some apparatus like Captain Manby’s); the vessel
struck upon a shelving rock, and, night coming on, sunk in three fathoms
water.
Some of the unfortunate crew and passengers attempted
The Foreman and four
to swim ashore, but in the darkness of the night, they
of the Artificers are
drowned. either lost their way, or were dashed upon the rocks by
the surge of the sea; while those who retained hold of
the rigging of the ship, being worn out with fatigue and the piercing
coldness of the weather during a long winter night, died before morning,—
when the shore presented the dreadful spectacle of the wreck of no fewer

than five vessels, with many lifeless bodies, the mournful subjects of the
care and pity of the islanders. In one of these wrecks, all on board were lost;
and, in the Traveller, only the cabin-boy escaped. This poor boy, from
whom these particulars were learned, had, for a time, been sheltered from
the severity of the blast, by one of the crew, but being at length left alone,
he clung to the top-mast, from which he was with great difficulty removed
in the morning, when the storm had somewhat abated.
A very trifling circumstance prevented the vessel bound for Anstruther,
from leaving Stromness along with the Traveller, so that Charles Peebles
escaped this gale, and arrived with the sad tidings of the fate of his brother
and companions. In Mr George Peebles, the light-house service lost a most
active and faithful servant, whose next charge would have been at the
operations of the Bell Rock light-house. From the peculiar circumstances of
this case, the Commissioners were pleased to grant small annuities to the
mother of the foreman, and also to the family of another of the sufferers.

Bell Rock Light-house.

In the prosecution of the plan of this introductory
1807.
account of the Northern Light-houses, we may observe
that the attention of the Commissioners was occupied
with the erection of the Bell Rock Light-house, during the years 1807, 8, 9,
and 10. But as the detail of the operations of these four years forms the
chief object of this work, it is not necessary that they should be further
noticed here. We therefore proceed to the next operations of the Board, in
the order of time.

North Ronaldsay Beacon.

It having been considered superfluous to have two
1809. light-houses on this part of the coast, within 8 miles of
each other, the Light-house Board resolved to
North Ronaldsay extinguish North Ronaldsay light, and convert its tower
Light extinguished,
and its Tower into a sea-mark, or beacon without a light. It was

converted into a accordingly intimated in the newspapers of the
Beacon.
principal ports of the United kingdom that the light on
the Island of North Ronaldsay, in Orkney, situated in North Lat. 59° 40´,
Long. 2° 15´ west of London, would be discontinued, and cease to be
lighted from and after the 1st day of June 1809; but that the Light-house
Tower would be preserved as a Beacon on the coast, by the erection of a
Circular Ball of masonry, measuring 8 feet in diameter, instead of a Light-
room. This beacon bears from the revolving light on the Start Point of
Sanday, N.NE., ½ E. by compass, distant 8 miles, which continues to be
lighted as heretofore, the Start Point having been found the most centrical
position for a light-house to warn the mariner of his approach to the low
shores of the North Isles of Orkney.

Isle of May.

The island of May holds a prominent position at the
1814.
entrance of the Firth of Forth, as will be seen by
referring to the charts of the coast which accompany
Light of May first this work. From its connection also with the estuary
Lighted 1635.
leading to the Capital of Scotland, and the principal
ports of her commerce, the light of May seems to have been the earliest
public light on our shores. Over the entrance door of the old light-house
tower, a stone, neatly cut into the figure by which the sun is usually
represented, bears the date 1635. It appears, also, from the printed acts of
the Scottish Parliament, Vol. v. p. 585., that power was granted, in the reign
of Charles I., to James Maxwell of Innerwick, and John Cunninghame of
Barnes, to erect a light-house upon the Isle of May, and collect certain
duties from shipping for its maintenance: The patent for
Patent ratified 1641.
this purpose, was ratified by the Scots Parliament in
1641.
The duties leviable for the light of May produced much
Much complained of
after the Union.
dissatisfaction after the Union, English and Irish vessels
having been charged with double rates, as foreigners.
There was, besides, a general dislike to any thing that was payable in the
form of a tax being held as private property. This light being also a coal-
fire, exposed in an open choffer to the vicissitudes of the weather, was

found to be very insufficient. After the appointment of a Light-house Board
in Scotland, in the year 1786, the shipping interest often expressed a desire
that the light of May should be included as one of the Northern Lights; that
it might undergo the most recent improvements; that, according to the spirit
and conditions of the Northern Light-house acts, the invidious distinction
between the shipping of the same kingdom, with regard to the light-house
duties, might be done away; and also that there might be some prospect of
the duties being modified, and ultimately ceasing. In the year 1809, the
author foreseeing, that notwithstanding the erection of the Bell Rock light-
house, the navigation of this part of the coast would still be very
incomplete, unless the light of May were improved, took an opportunity of
bringing this subject under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern
Light-houses; but it did not then appear that this could be taken up by the
Board, unless it were at the instance of the proprietor.
The family of Scotstarvit, into whose hands the
Family of Scotstarvit property of the island and light of May came by
become Proprietors of
the Island. purchase, in 1714, along with the estate of Westbarnes,
in East Lothian, had long been solicited by the trade of
the Firth of Forth, to have the light made better, either by enlarging the
choffer for containing the coals, or by altering it to an oil light with
reflectors. Statements to this effect having been laid
Chamber of before the proprietor, by the Chamber of Commerce of
Commerce get the
Light Improved. Edinburgh, a Committee of that body visited the island
in the year 1786, and reported on the state of the light.
In consequence of the representation of this Committee, the choffer was
enlarged to the capacity of a square of three feet; and, instead of about 200
tons of coal per annum, formerly consumed, the quantity of fuel was now
doubled. The Chamber further recommended, that the
Wemyss Coal stock of coals, hitherto exposed to the open air on the
preferred for the
Lights. island, should in future be kept under cover, and that
the supply should be invariably got from the collieries
of Wemyss, which were preferred as fittest for maintaining a steady light,
Wemyss coal being then used at Heligoland, and other coal-lights upon the
Continent.
These conditions were most readily complied with by
Light of May the tutors of Miss Scott, the proprietor; and the light of
considered the best
May, from that period, was found to be very

Coal-Light in the considerably improved, the choffer for containing the
kingdom.
fuel being about double the capacity of any other light-
house choffer on the coast of Great Britain. The light of May, from this
period, may therefore be described as the most powerful coal-light in the
kingdom, although, from its exposure, it was still found to be very unsteady,
in bad weather, when most required by the mariner. Lime-kilns and other
accidental open fires upon the neighbouring shores, were also apt to be
mistaken for the Isle of May choffer. To obviate such dangerous mistakes,
there was no other method but the introduction of a light from oil, with
reflectors, inclosed in a glazed light-room. The Trinity-
Portland Family get house of Leith, in the year 1790, presented a memorial
possession of the
Island. to this effect, to the Duke of Portland, into whose
possession the light and Isle of May had come by his
Grace’s marriage with Miss Scott of Scotstarvit. But after many fruitless
applications urged from time to time by the Merchants of Leith, to have the
light altered, the measure was at length given up by them as hopeless.
Early in the morning of the 19th day of December
Loss of the Nymphen 1810, however, two of his Majesty’s ships, the frigates
and Pallas Frigates.
Nymphen and Pallas, had the misfortune to be wrecked
near Dunbar, in consequence, it is believed, of the light of a lime-kiln on the
coast of Haddingtonshire having been mistaken for the coal light of the
island of May. These frigates having come along the northern coast of
Scotland, their situation, as may be seen from the annexed maps, was very
different from that of ships approaching the land from a distant voyage,
who are much more liable to mistakes of this kind. But
Their prize-ship what renders the error in this instance more
arrives in safety.
unaccountable is, that one of the ships had even sent a
boat ashore at Johnshaven, on the opposite coast of Kincardineshire, in the
afternoon of the day preceding their loss; and the other, about the same time
and place, dispatched a small prize for Leith Roads, under the command of
a Midshipman,—who, in his course up the Firth of Forth, saw the Bell Rock
floating light, (for at this time the light-house was not completed),—then
the lights on the islands of May and Inchkeith in succession, and before
day-light in the morning of the 19th he anchored his little vessel in the
Roads. In reporting the prize to the Admiral at Leith, this young gentleman
expressed his surprise that the frigates had not reached their station before
him. In the course of the forenoon of the same day, however, an express

arrived, stating the circumstance of the loss of the Pallas, which had
happened in the course of the night, about two miles to the eastward of
Dunbar. Soon afterwards, another notice arrived announcing to the Admiral
the loss of the Nymphen Frigate in the same manner, and from the same
mistake. It is not a little surprising, that although these ships had sailed in
company, and were wrecked within a few miles of each other, their similar
fate was perfectly unknown by the respective crews, till late in the day on
which the accidents happened. It was, however, so far
Nine men drowned. fortunate, that although the ships became total wrecks,
only nine men were lost of their joint crews, amounting
to about 600 men; all of whom might probably have perished, from the
rocky and exposed shore on which they were stranded, had not the weather
been very moderate.
Immediately after the loss of these two fine frigates,
Lord Melville applies valued at not less than L. 100,000, Lord Viscount
to the Light-house
Board about the Isle Melville, first Lord of the Admiralty, applied to the
of May Light. Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses,
proposing that the light of May should be assumed as
one of the northern lights, and forthwith put under proper regulations. It
may here be proper to notice, that, prior to this accident,
Duke of Portland the Duke of Portland entertained serious intentions of
proposes to alter the
Light; altering this light; and the author had been employed to
report to his Grace on its alteration, from the use of pit-
coal to oil, with reflectors, the expence of which he had estimated at the
annual sum of L. 600. The communication from the
And proposes that the Admiralty gave rise to a correspondence between the
Commissioners
should become Light-house Commissioners and the Duke of Portland,
Lessees, which is who proposed to give the Light-house Board an
rejected.
allowance of L. 600 per annum, for taking burden of
the light of May, while his Grace was to continue to
levy the duties. This proposal was rejected on the part of the
Commissioners, who declined becoming lessees, under the existing acts or
constitution of their Board; and it was ultimately concluded, that they could
only take up this measure as purchasers for the public, in order to abolish
the charge on English and Irish vessels paying as foreigners, and to lessen
the duty for that light to the trade in general. In the present state of the light-
house funds, this purchase could only be made by a special act of

Parliament, and with pecuniary aid from Government:
The Duke demands as the sum demanded by the Duke for the island, and
L. 63,000 for the
Light duties and the right to the light-duties, was unavoidably great,
Island. amounting to no less than Sixty Thousand Guineas.
In the mean time, Mr Cuningham, Secretary to the
Memorial presented Light-house Board, was directed to acquaint Mr
to the Admiralty. Walker, the Duke of Portland’s agent, that the
Commissioners could not treat for upholding the light
of May for payment of an annual sum. A memorial was then drawn up for
the Admiralty, of the whole proceedings in this measure, which was
presented by Sir William Rae, Bart., on the part of the Light-house Board;
when their Lordships were pleased to give their countenance and support to
a bill for the purchase of the light duties and island of May. This bill was
accordingly brought into Parliament, and passed in the
Isle of May and Session of 1814, authorising a loan of L. 30,000 to be
Duties purchased at
L. 60,000. made from the Treasury to the Commissioners of
Northern Light-houses, and empowering them to make
the purchase from the Duke of Portland, for the sum of L. 60,000.
Duty of the Light ofThis important transaction having been closed, the
May reduced by the Light-house Board, in terms of this act (46th George
Act of 1814. III. chap. cxxxvi.) were empowered to reduce the light-
duty of the Isle of May, to all British vessels, from one
penny half-penny, as collected heretofore, to one penny per ton, when
English and Irish ships were no longer treated as foreigners, by paying
double dues. Immediate measures were also taken for altering and
improving the light. It was, however, too late at the end of the session of
1814, to commence operations on the island; but, in the following summer,
the new light-house was erected, and a light from oil with reflectors was
exhibited, on the 1st day of February 1816, after a coal-light had been
continued here for 181 years, or from 1635.
As the island of May lies about half way between the
Additional
Apartments at the Isle
light-houses of Inch Keith and the Bell Rock, it was
of May. thought proper to have two or three apartments in the
May Light-house for the reception of such members of
the Light-house Board, as might happen to be detained by contrary winds in
occasional visits to the Bell Rock, upon which landing is often very difficult

and precarious, depending both on the state of the weather and the tides.
The dwelling-house at the Isle of May, therefore, is larger than would
otherwise have been required for the accommodation of the two light-
keepers and their families.
In consequence of this change upon the light of May,
Notice given of the
notice was given to the public, that it had been assumed
alterations at Isle of
May and Inchkeith. one of the Northern Light-houses, and that the
Commissioners had directed a new light-house, upon
improved principles, to be erected, which would not only alter its former
appearance, but also occasion a change on the light of Inchkeith, situate
about twenty-two miles farther up the Firth of Forth. The following
description of the Isle of May light was published.
“The light-house on the Island of May, is situate at the
Description of the
Light of May.
entrance of the Firth of Forth, in North Lat. 56° 12´,
and Long. 2° 36´ west of London. From the light-house,
Fifeness bears, by compass, N. by E. ½ E., distant five miles, and the Staple
Rocks lying off Dunbar, S. by W. ½ W., distant ten miles. The light being
formerly from coal, exposed to the weather in an open grate or choffer, was
discontinued on the night of the 1st day of February 1816, when a light
from oil, with reflectors, known to mariners as a Stationary Light, was
exhibited. The new light-house tower, upon the Island of May, is contiguous
to the site of the old one, and is elevated 240 feet above the medium level of
the sea, of which the masonry forms 57 feet, and is therefore similar to the
old tower in point of height. The new light is defended from the weather in
a glazed light-room, and has a uniformly steady appearance, resembling a
star of the first magnitude, and is seen from all points of the compass, at the
distance of about seven leagues, and intermediately according to the state of
the atmosphere.”— The old light-house tower on the
Old Light-house
converted into a
Island of May, has been reduced in height to about 20
Pilot’s Guard-room. feet, and by directions of the Light-house Board, it has
been converted into a guard-room like that upon
Inchkeith, for the use and conveniency of pilots and fishermen.

Inchkeith Revolving Light.

The above description, in so far as regards the
Description of appearance of the light of May being exactly applicable
Inchkeith Revolving
Light. to that of Inchkeith, described at page 25. of this
Introduction, it was found expedient to alter it from a
stationary to a revolving light, that it might be distinguished from the light
of May, where a revolving light would have been liable to be mistaken for
the Bell Rock light, owing to the more contiguous position of the May
island to the Bell Rock.
The light upon Inchkeith, hitherto a stationary light from oil, with
reflectors, was therefore altered and converted into that description of light
known to mariners as a Revolving light without colour, on the same night
that the change took place upon the Isle of May. The light of Inchkeith is
seen from all points of the compass, at the distance of five leagues in
favourable weather, exhibiting a bright light once in every minute, and
gradually becoming less luminous, it totally disappears to a distant
observer. In this manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame,
alternately shows a brilliant light, which becomes fainter, and more obscure,
until it is totally eclipsed. By this alteration, the same description and
appearance of the other lights upon the coast is preserved, and the
possibility of mistaking Inchkeith light for the numerous lights on the land,
with which it is surrounded, is now also effectually prevented.

Corsewall.

It had long been the wish of the mercantile interest of
1815.
the Firth of Clyde and St George’s Channel, to have a
light on the coast of Galloway, to direct ships, on the
Additional Light Scotch side, into the Irish Channel. From the great
proposed for the
western coast on amount of light-house duties collected upon the western
Corsewall Point. coast, and the extent of light-house works which had of
late years been erected upon the eastern shores,
including the Bell Rock and Isle of May light-houses, the Commissioners
were desirous of accommodating the trade of the western coast, as far as the
demands of shipping required, or the state of the light-house funds would
permit. It was accordingly resolved, that a report upon this subject, made to
the Light-house Board by the author, should be submitted to the trade of

Liverpool, Glasgow and Greenock, for their observations. Having in this
manner procured the necessary information, it was resolved that a light-
house should be erected for the benefit of this coast, upon the northern
extremity of the Mull of Galloway in Wigtonshire, on the point of
Corsewall; because, in addition to the advantages of this situation, as an
excellent direction both for the entrance of the Irish Channel and Firth of
Clyde, it would answer as a guide to the Roadstead or anchorage of Loch
Ryan.
In the course of the correspondence on this subject, it
Light-houses
necessary for the
had been stated by Mr Quintin Leitch, Chief Magistrate
of Greenock, a gentleman well acquainted with the
navigation of the Irish
Channel. navigation of these seas, that if light-houses were
erected upon the Isle of Man, these, with the lights of
Copeland and Kilwarlin, on the Irish side of the channel, together with the
proposed light on Corsewall Point, and another on the Hulin or Maiden
rocks, off the coast of Antrim, would fully protect this important part of the
coast.
After considering the subject in its various bearings, the
Foundation-stone of
Corsewall Light-
Board resolved, as before noticed, on the erection of a
house laid. light-house on Corsewall Point, in the month of January
1815, and on the 17th day of June following, the
foundation-stone was laid, by Mr Quintin Leitch, as master mason, when
Mr James Spreull, Chamberlain of the city of Glasgow, Mr Lachlan
Kennedy, under whose charge the works were placed, and the Engineer,
assisted at the ceremony. In the course of the Summer and Autumn, the
tower of this light-house was got to the height of 35 feet, and some progress
was also made with the walls of the house for the light-keepers.
The works at Corsewall being suspended during winter,
1816.
were again resumed in the ensuing spring. The light-
room was completed in the autumn, and the light was
Light-house finished. exhibited to the public on the night of the 15th day of
November 1816, agreeably to the following description.
“Corsewall light-house is situate in the county of
Description of
Corsewall Light.
Wigton, in North Lat. 55° 1´, and West Long. 5° 5´. It
bears by compass, from Millour Point, on the western

side of the channel leading into Loch Ryan, W. by S., distant about two
miles; from Turnberry Point, SW. 21 miles; from the Craig of Ailsa SS. W.
15 miles; from the Mull of Kintyre S. E. S. 31 miles; from the Hulin or
Maiden rocks on the coast of Antrim, E. by S. 20 miles; from Copeland
Light-house, near the entrance of Belfast loch, NE. ½ E. 22 miles, and from
Laggan point in Galloway, NE., distant 3½ miles. To distinguish this light,
which is from oil, with a reflecting and revolving apparatus, from the other
lights upon the coast, it is known to mariners as a Revolving light with
colour, and exhibits from the same light-room a light of the natural
appearance, alternating with a light tinged with a red colour. These lights,
respectively, attain their greatest strength, or most luminous effect, at the
end of every two minutes. But, in the course of each periodic revolution of
the reflector-frame, the lights become alternately fainter and more obscure,
and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short period. The light-
room at Corsewall is glazed all round, but the light is hid from the mariner
by the high land near Laggan Point, towards the south, and by Turnberry
Point towards the north. This light is elevated 112 feet above the medium
level of the sea, and its most luminous side may be seen like a star of the
first magnitude, at the distance of five or six leagues, but the side tinged red
being more obscured by the colouring shades, is not seen at so great a
distance.”

Isle of Man.

The subject of the erection of the light-houses on the
Rate of Light-house
Isle of Man, having again been agitated by the
duties for the Isle of
Man. merchants of Liverpool, the rates of duty which would
probably be demanded for the erection of a light-house
upon the Calf of Man, was procured from one of the agents of the Trinity-
House of London upon that coast. This schedule of duties appearing to be
high, a correspondence took place between Mr William Laird of Liverpool,
and Mr Quintin Leitch of Greenock, respecting the rate of Scotch light-
house duties, which was ultimately brought under the notice of the
Commissioners of the Northern Light-Houses, by Sir William Rae, Bart.
Reference having been made to the author relative to the expence of
erecting a light-house upon the Calf of Man, he stated to the Board, that, in

the course of a tour which he had made in the year
1802. 1802, round the coast of Great Britain, he visited the
Isle of Man, with a view to ascertain the most eligible
Author’s Report on places for light-houses on that island, where he
this subject.
considered two light-house stations to be indispensably
necessary, viz. one on the Calf of Man, to the south, and another on the
Point of Ayre, towards the north of the island. From the numerous shipping
of that district, he only calculated upon the duty of one farthing per ton
upon shipping for the light-houses of both stations. The Commissioners
took this matter under consideration at the time, as appears from their
minutes of the 14th January 1803, which state, that “Mr Stevenson had
reported very strongly of the great utility which would attend the erection of
light-houses on the Isle of Man; but that island not being within the
jurisdiction either of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses or
Trinity Board of London, both boards seem thereby to be prevented from
accomplishing an object so much wished for by mariners, as such an
improvement upon the coast would prove a great additional security to the
navigation of those seas, and especially to the trade of a great number of the
ports of England and Ireland. In order, therefore, that this circumstance
might not be overlooked, the Commissioners direct this notice to be taken
of it in their minutes, that if an application to Parliament should, at a future
period, be deemed necessary, they may judge how far it may not be proper
in them to apply for power to erect lights upon the Isle of Man.”
When these circumstances were intimated to the
Scotch Light-house
Board applied to for
merchants of Liverpool, and especially that the rate of
lights on the Isle ofone farthing per ton was considered a sufficient rate of
Man. duty, the business was brought under the notice of the
Association of Shipowners and other public bodies of
Liverpool, by Mr John Gladstone, when a representation and petition from
them was presented to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses,
praying, that they would bring a bill into Parliament, to enable them to erect
the necessary light-houses on the Isle of Man.
This application having been complied with, Sir
Act of 1815.
William Rae was requested to attend to the progress of
the bill, and to take the assistance of any of the other
members of the light-house board who might happen to be in London at the

time. The Isle of Man Light-house Bill was accordingly brought forward by
Mr Huskisson, in absence of Mr Canning, member of Parliament for
Liverpool, as a measure in which that port was specially interested. But
when the subject was communicated to the late Mr Rose, M. P., one of the
elder brethren of the Trinity House of London, he requested that nothing
might be done in this measure, until he should have an opportunity of
consulting with the gentlemen of the Trinity-House, as he considered the
Isle of Man to be within the district of that board. After repeated meetings,
at which Mr Rose attended, he ultimately stated, that the Trinity Board did
not consider the Isle of Man as coming under their line of coast; and that the
Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses might, therefore, go on with
their bill. It was accordingly brought forward in the House of Commons,
and the author attended to prove the preamble of the bill in the House of
Lords; and in June 1815 it received the Royal assent.
In returning towards Scotland, I embarked in the Light-
Difficulty in fixing
house Yacht at Liverpool, and visited the Isle of Man. It
the position of the Isle
of Man lights. appeared, on examining the site for the erection of a
light-house on the Point of Ayre, or northern extremity
of the island, that there would be no difficulty in fixing its place. But the
case was different at the Calf Island, as there seemed an evident advantage
in having the house on a low situation, to keep it more free from fog, and
where it might also be more in the line of direction with a dangerous reef
called the Chickens, lying about a mile into the offing. On this low position,
called Kaager Point, the high land of the Calf would have shut in the light
very much from the northward. Another situation, however, presented itself;
but, as this last station was considerably higher, it might perhaps be found
more uncertain with regard to fog resting upon it in thick and hazy weather;
and it was therefore thought prudent to place a trusty person on the island,
with directions for observing and communicating the state of the weather
for about six months, previously to determining the site of the light-house
on the Calf of Man. This mode of inquiring into the subject, was
strengthened by the report of some intelligent persons relative to the
prevailing state of the weather at the Isle of Man, who represented that the
Calf Island was less liable to be enveloped in fog than the higher parts of
the Main Island.

In the month of August 1815, when Sir William Rae,
A person stationed onBart. then Sheriff of the shire of Edinburgh, Mr Robert
the Island to observe
the state of the Hamilton, Sheriff of Lanarkshire, and Mr Adam Duff,
weather. Sheriff of Forfarshire, Commissioners of the Northern
Light-houses, visited this island, they concurred in
judging it highly proper to make special observations on the state of the
weather at the Calf Island. In the beginning of November following, the
author accordingly sent Mr Macurich, a shipmaster in the light-house
service, to that island, with directions to reside there, and make monthly
returns of the state of the weather, agreeably to a printed form. During his
stay of seven months, it appears, upon the whole, that the fog rested only
twice upon the highest land of the Calf, while it cleared partially below. On
one of these occasions, I was on board of the Light-house yacht, then at
anchor off the island, when the fog was for a time general; and as the
weather became clear, I observed that it first disappeared upon the lower
parts of the island; and that in half an hour the whole of the Calf was seen.
In the journal of the weather alluded to, the Calf Island is represented as
often perfectly free of fog, while the higher parts of the opposite mainland
of Man, was hid in mist. To account for this, it may be noticed, that the
mass of matter in the Calf island is much less, and the land is also much
lower, than in the main island. Part of this effect may also be ascribed to the
rapidity of the tides, which create a current of wind, particularly in the
narrow channel between the Main and Calf islands; which have a direct
tendency to clear away the fog; as I have observed at the Skerries in the
Pentland Firth , and in similar situations on different parts of the coast,
where rapid currents prevail.
From these observations, the author was led to report to
1816.
the Commissioners, that the light-house on the Calf of
Man should hold an intermediate position between the
Distinguishing Light highest part of the island, called Bushel’s Hill, and the
for the Calf of Man.
lower site called Kaager Point; and, further, that by
erecting two light-house towers in a certain relative position to each other,
they would point out the line of direction of the dangerous sunken rocks
called the Chickens, and by adopting that description of light known to
mariners as a Revolving light without Colour, this station would be
sufficiently distinguished from the lights which surround the Isle of Man on
the Scotch, Irish, and English shores.

A difficulty occurred in proceeding with the Isle of Man
1817. light-houses, from the want of funds to enable the
Commissioners to proceed with the works. The Board
Lights of the Isle of had already become liable for a large sum to liquidate
Man completed.
the payment of the purchase-money of the private right
of the Portland Family to the duties of the light of May. On this measure,
and in the erection of the Bell Rock light-house, as before noticed, there had
been expended upwards of L. 160,000 in the course of the last ten years; so
that it became necessary to borrow L. 10,000, agreeably to the act, for the
Isle of Man. In this state of things, the works at the Isle of Man were
delayed for a time; but, in the month of August 1816, they were
commenced. The light-rooms were completed in the month of December
1817; and, on the night of the 1st of February 1818, the lights, both at the
stations of the Point of Ayre, and Calf Island, were exhibited to the public,
agreeably to the following descriptions.

Point of Ayre.

The only consideration to be taken into view in fixing
1818.
the site of the Point of Ayre Light-house, was the
wasting appearance of the shores by the effects of the
Description of the sea at this part of the coast. Although, therefore, it
Point of Ayre Light-
house. would have answered fully better, for the purposes of
the light, to have erected the tower close upon high-
water-mark, yet the beach being composed of a loose shifting gravel, it
became a matter of prudence rather to keep the buildings at some distance
from it.
“The Point of Ayre light-house is situate about 650 feet from the sea, at
high-water of spring tides, upon an extensive plain in the Main Island of
Man, in north latitude 54° 27´, and longitude 4° 20´ west of London. The
light-house bears, by compass, from the Mull of Galloway, S. S. E. and is
distant 22 miles; from Burrowhead, S. S. W. ½ W. distant 16 miles; from St
Bees, in Cumberland, W. by N. ¾ N. distant 29 miles; and from Rue Point,
E. by S. distant 4 miles.

“The light is from oil, with a reflecting and revolving apparatus, and is
known to mariners as a “Revolving-coloured-light,” exhibiting from the
same Reflector-frame a light of the natural appearance, alternating with one
tinged red. These lights respectively attain their most luminous effect, at the
end of every two minutes. But, in the course of each periodic revolution of
the reflector-frame, both lights become alternately fainter and more
obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short time.
“The Light-room at the Point of Ayre is glazed all round, but the light is hid
from the mariner by the high land of Maughold Head towards the south,
and by Rue Point towards the west. Being elevated 106 feet above the
medium level of the sea, its most luminous side may be seen, like a star of
the first magnitude, at the distance of five leagues; but the side tinged red,
being somewhat obscured by the coloured shades, cannot be seen at so great
a distance.”

Calf of Man.

“There are two leading lights on the Calf of Man,
Description of Calf of
Man Light.
situate on the western side of the small island called the
Calf, in north Lat. 54° 5´, and Long. 4° 46´ west of
London. These two light-houses are distant from each other 560 feet. The
higher light bears by compass from the Mull of Galloway, S. SW. distant 37
miles; Peelhead, in the Isle of Man, SW. distant 11 miles; Langness Point,
W. by N. ½ N. distant 6 miles; and from the sunken rocks, called the
Chickens, NE. ⅓ E. distant about 1¼ mile.
“These lights are from oil, each light-room being furnished with a distinct
reflecting and revolving apparatus, by which they are distinguished from
the other lights on the coast, and rendered useful as leading lights for
passing the dangerous rocks called the Chickens. The light-house towers, as
before noticed, are built at the distance of 560 feet apart, bearing from each
other NE. ⅓ E. and SW. ¼ W. Consequently, to an observer, in the direction
of the Chickens, both lights will appear in one, or be seen in the same line
of direction, and be known to mariners as “Double-revolving and Leading-
lights without colour.” These lights will respectively attain their most
luminous effect at the end of every two minutes; but, in the course of each

periodic revolution of the reflector frames, they alternately become fainter
and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short
time. The two light-rooms at the Calf of Man are glazed all round, but are
hid from the mariner by the high land of Peel Head towards the NE. and by
Spanish Head in an eastern direction; both lights, however, will be visible at
about ¼ of a mile from Langness Point. The lower light is elevated 305 feet
above the medium level of the sea, and the high light 396 feet, and they will
be seen like two stars of the first magnitude, at the distance of six or seven
leagues, in a favourable state of the atmosphere.”
By the extension of the works of the Scotch Light-
Extension of the
house Board to the Isle of Man, the system of the
Northern Lights to the
Irish Sea. Northern Light-houses may now be said, in a general
way, to extend over the whole of the coast of Scotland,
while the lights of Man are of immediate importance to the extensive
shipping of the coasts of England and Ireland, which bound the Irish Sea.
The trade of Dublin and Newry, &c. on the one side, and of Liverpool,
Lancaster, Whitehaven, and Workington, &c. on the other, find the traffic
with those ports much more safe since the erection of these lights. Instead
of shunning the Isle of Man, as formerly, owing to the projecting points,
sunken rocks, and sand-banks connected with it, the mariner now steers
boldly for this island, and takes shelter under it in stormy weather.

Sumburgh Head.

According to the existing acts of Parliament relative to
Shetland Islands.
the Northern Lights, no additional duty is exigible for
any new erections of the Board, as the only part of the
coast not liable, prior to the extension of the Scots Light-house Acts to the
Isle of Man, was that of the Solway Firth , now also subject to the duty.
These acts, however, empower the Commissioners to erect additional light-
houses; and when a sufficient number shall have been exhibited on the
coast, and a surplus fund provided for their maintenance, the duty on
shipping is ultimately to cease, and be no longer payable. Presuming,
therefore, upon the prosperity of the commerce of the country, for an
increase of funds, the Commissioners, though there were large sums to pay,
both in the form of interest for Government loans, and instalments for

borrowed money, taking into consideration the unprotected state of the
Shetland Islands, a part of their district still without the immediate benefit
of light-houses, had in view to erect an additional Light-house, as soon as
their funds would admit, on some of the most prominent points of that
group of Islands. The winters of 1817 and 1818 having been very
unfortunate to the shipping of the North Seas, and some very distressing
shipwrecks having occurred at Shetland, Mr William Erskine, now Lord
Kineddar, then Sheriff of the County of Orkney and Shetland, and ex officio
one of the Commissioners, brought the subject again under the notice of the
Board; and, in the month of January 1819, it was finally resolved that a
Light-house should be erected on Sumburgh Head in Shetland, the position
of which will be seen by inspecting Plate III. This work having been
accordingly contracted for by Mr John Reid, builder, of Peterhead, the first
stone of the building was laid on the 10th day of May 1820, and the light
exhibited on the night of the 15th day of January 1821, agreeably to the
following specification of the position of the house, and appearance of the
light:
“Sumburgh Head Lighthouse is situate on the southern
Description of
Sumburgh Head
promontory of the Mainland of the Shetland Islands, in
Light-house. north latitude 59° 52´, and longitude 1° 15´ west of
London. The Lighthouse, by compass, bears from
Hangcliff-head in Noss Island SW. by W. ¼ West, distant 21 miles. From
Fair Island NE. by E. ½ East, 26 miles. And from the Island of Foula, SE.
by S. ¼ South, distant 28 miles. In reference to these bearings, the light is
visible to the mariner from the southward, between Noss and Foula Islands.
This light is known to mariners as a “Stationary light from oil with
reflectors;” and being elevated 300 feet above the medium level of the sea,
it is seen, like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of seven or eight
leagues, and at intermediate distances, according to the state of the
atmosphere.”
From the very exposed situation of the promontory of
Built with double
walls.
Sumburgh Head, and the great difficulty experienced in
preserving the walls of light-houses in a water-tight
state, the writer followed a new plan with the buildings at this station, in
having made the whole of the external walls double; the masonry of the
outward wall being lined with brick instead of lath-work, with a space of

three inches left between the double walls. This method was of course,
more expensive in the first instance, but will ultimately be much more
economical, as repairs, in these remote situations, are unavoidably very
expensive. This house is free of dampness, and has not admitted a single
drop of water through any part of the walls during the storms of two
successive winters, although the force of the wind is such, that the light-
keepers, when out of doors, are frequently obliged to move upon their
hands and knees, to prevent their being blown off the high land. In such
states of the weather, accompanied by rain, it is hardly possible to prevent a
single wall from admitting water.

Carr Rock.

The Carr forms the seaward termination of a reef of sunken rocks which
appear at low-water, extending about a mile and three quarters from the
shore of Fifeness, on the northern side of the entrance of the Firth of Forth.
The very dangerous position of this rock, as a turning point, in the
navigation of the northern-bound shipping of the Firth , will be seen from
the chart of the coast, Plate IV. It seemed necessary, therefore, for the safety
of navigation, that the Carr Rock, in connection with the several light-
houses of the Bell Rock, Isle of May, and Inchkeith, should be made as
easily distinguishable to the mariner as possible.
The author, while occupied with the works at the Bell
Shipwrecks at the
Carr Rock.
Rock, having been often struck with the frequent and
distressing occurrence of shipwreck at the Carr Rock,
was induced to collect information as to the probable numbers of these
wrecks; and he accordingly obtained, from persons who had good access to
know, the following list of wrecked vessels, for a period of nine years prior
to the commencement of the works at the Carr Rock.

List of Shipwrecks off Fifeness, between the Years 1800 and 1809.
Vessels’ Names. Masters’ Names. Descriptions. Port belonging to.
Unknown. Simpson. Sloop. South Ferry.
Martha. Clark. Do. Crail.
Leven. Phillip. Do. Leven.
Neptune. Finlay. Do. Dundee.

Unknown. Brown. Do. Kincardine.
Aurora. Leslie. Brig. Arbroath.
Lady Charlotte. Duncan. Sloop. Aberdeen.
Two Brothers. Carfrae. Brig. Dundee.
Expedition. Nicol. Sloop. Kincardine.
Isabella. Rintoul. Do. Perth.
Unknown. Johnston. Do. Do.
Do. Unknown. Do. John’s Haven.
New Deer. Banks. Do. Kirkaldy.
Unknown. Hamson. Galliot. Christiansand.
Countess of Elgin. Gowans. Sloop. John’s Haven.
Unknown. Small. Do. South Ferry.

By this melancholy list we find, that no fewer than
Floating-buoy moored sixteen vessels have, in the course of nine years, been
off the Carr.
either lost or stranded on the Carr Rocks, being almost
at the rate of two wrecks in the year. From this alarming state of things, it
was thought advisable to bring the subject under the notice of the
Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, when the Board immediately
ordered a Floating-buoy, of a large size, to be moored off the Carr. The
moorings for this buoy were laid down, upon the 18th of September 1809,
in 10 fathoms water, at the distance of about 200 fathoms, in a north-eastern
direction, from the rock. But, owing to the heavy swell of sea, and the rocky
sandstone bottom on this part of the coast, it was found hardly possible to
prevent the buoy from occasionally drifting, even although it had been
attached to part of the great chain, made from bar-iron, measuring 1½ inch
square, with which the Bell Rock floating light had been moored for
upwards of four years, without injury. The moorings of the Carr Rock-buoy,
from the continual rubbing upon the sandstone bottom, were worn through
with the friction in the course of ten months; and during the four years
which it rode here, though regularly examined and replaced, in the proper
season of the year, it was no less than five times adrift, to the great
inconveniency and hazard of shipping.
Under these circumstances, the Light-house Board was
A Beacon of masonry
is resolved on.
induced to erect a Beacon of masonry upon the Carr
Rock itself, instead of the Floating-buoy. This work was
commenced in the month of June, in the year 1813, under the direction of
the writer. The stone for this building was taken from an excellent
sandstone quarry on the property of Lord Kellie, near the mouth of Pitmilly

Burn: But, owing to the smallness of the rock, the depth of water upon it,
and the exposed nature of the situation, the work was afterwards attended
with very great difficulty.
The length of the Carr Rock, from south to north,
Dimensions of the
Carr Rock.
measures 75 feet; but its greatest breadth, as seen at
low-water of spring-tides, being only 23 feet, it was
found to be impracticable to obtain a base for a building of greater diameter
than 18 feet. Such also was the fractured and rugged state of the surface of
this rock, that it became necessary to excavate part of the foundation-pit of
the building to the depth of seven feet. The difficulties of this part of the
work were also greatly increased, owing to the foundation, on the eastern
side, being under the level of the lowest tides: so that it became necessary to
construct a coffer-dam. Part of this coffer-dam it was necessary to remove,
and carry ashore, after each tide’s work; and on the return of the workmen
at ebb-tide, a considerable time was unavoidably occupied in fixing the
moveable part of the coffer-dam, and in pumping the water out of the
foundation-pit.
But, to enable the reader to form a comparative
Difficulties of this
work compared with
estimate of the difficulties attending the early stages of
those of the Bell the Carr Rock Beacon, with those of the Bell Rock
Rock. Light-house, it may be noticed, that the period which
the artificers were actually at work upon the Carr Rock,
as ascertained by the foreman during the first season, or the summer of
1813, was 41 hours; and in 1814, after the experience of one year’s work,
these were only extended to 53 hours. Now, if we compare 1807 and 1808,
the two first years’ work at the Bell Rock, we find the artificers were
respectively about 180 and 265 hours upon that rock. The first two years at
the Carr Rock were entirely occupied in excavating and preparing the
foundation, and in laying 10 stones, or the half-course of masonry, which
brings the foundation to a uniform level, for the first entire course of the
building, as shewn in Plate II.; while, at the Bell Rock, in the two first
seasons three courses were erected, as represented in Plate IX., of a building
situate 12 miles from the shore, and measuring 42 feet in diameter at the
base, besides the erection of a Beacon-house or Barrack for the workmen.
The establishment for the works at the Bell Rock was of course on a much
larger scale than that of the Carr Rock; but still the latter was equally

effective, and the same apparatus, artificers and seamen, were employed at
both.
During the third year’s work, or 1815, the second
Third year’s work at
the Carr Rock.
course of the masonry was completed upon the Carr,
and nine stones of the third course had been got laid by
the 3d of October, when a heavy ground-swell obliged the artificers
precipitately to leave the rock and take to their boats. This swell was
immediately accompanied by a gale of easterly wind, and before the cement
had taken bond or firmness, the surge of the sea washed it out; when the
oaken trenails, used as a temporary fixture during the progress of the work,
were wrenched off, and the stone-joggles broken asunder. The whole of the
nine blocks of stone were thus swept off the rock and lost in deep water,
though they had been completely dove-tailed, and fitted on the same
principles as the masonry of the Bell Rock Light-house, where not a single
stone was lost during the whole progress of the work.
In the year 1816, or fourth season, the work was
Fourth year’s work.
continued till the month of November, when the
building had attained the height of about 20 feet, or the
16th course, and still wanting 18 courses to complete the masonry. In this
state, it was left till the following season, having been previously loaded
with about four tons of lead, cast in suitable pieces, and suspended within
the void or central hollow of the building. The operations of the fourth
season had been also much retarded by several untoward accidents. In
particular, a heavy gale overtook the workmen while they were laying the
7th course, which obliged them to leave the rock before the precautionary
measures could be taken, for closing and completing the work immediately
in hand; in consequence of which, the stones on the eastern, or weather-side
of this course, were lifted off their bases, the oaken trenails broken, and five
of the blocks of stone swept away. At another period, the Pozzolano mortar
of the beds of two of the stones was washed out, and so much injured, that
the stones required to be lifted and relaid. The works were this season
intended to have been closed early in the month of October, when another
unlucky gale sprung up, just as the sixteenth course had been laid, which
lifted seven of the stones off their beds; but they were fortunately held by
the oaken trenails, and in this state they remained for about three weeks,
before a landing could possibly be effected, to replace them.

In the month of June 1817, the fifth year’s work was
Fifth year’s work. begun, and the remaining courses of the masonry were
built; but in the month of November, the coast was
visited with a gale of wind at south-east, accompanied with a heavy swell of
sea, which, unfortunately, washed down the upper part of the building, and
reduced it to the height of the fifth course, which formed part of the fourth
year’s work.
Instead, therefore, of completing this Beacon with
Beacon finished with
cast-iron pillars and
masonry, as had been originally intended, and providing
ball. the Machine and large Bell, which was to have
measured 5 feet across the mouth, to be tolled by the
alternate rise and fall of the tide, it now became a matter of consideration in
what form the upper part of this design should be finished. The Board
ultimately determined on the erection of six columns of cast-iron upon the
remaining courses of masonry. These columns are put together with spigot
and facet joints, strongly connected with collars and horizontal bars of
malleable iron; the whole terminating with a cast-iron ball, formed in ribs,
elevated about 25 feet above the medium level of the sea. In this manner the
Carr Rock Beacon was at length completed, in the month of September
1821, after six years work. The following is the notice and description of it
given to the public:
“The Carr Rock forms the seaward ledge of a range of sunken rocks,
Bearings and extending about two miles from Fifeness, on the eastern coast of
Description of the Scotland, in North Latitude 56° 17’, and Longitude 2° 35´ west of
Carr Rock Beacon. London. By compass the Carr Rock Beacon bears SW. by W. from
the Bell Rock, distant 11 miles; and from the Isle of May Light-house
N.N.E. ¼ E., distant 6 miles.
“The lower part of the beacon is a circular building of masonry, 18 feet in diameter,
forming a basement for six pillars of cast-iron, terminating in a hollow ball of that metal,
which measures 3 feet across, and is elevated about 25 feet above the medium level of the
sea.
“The erection of this beacon has been attended with much difficulty, having occupied six
years in building; in the course of which the works sustained occasional damage. Mariners
are therefore warned, when they run for the Carr Rock Beacon, to do so with caution, both
on account of its exposure to the breach of the sea, and its liability to receive damage from
vessels under sail.”

The form and construction of the Carr Rock Beacon,
Application of the
tide-machine both as originally intended, and ultimately executed,
described. will be better understood by referring to Plate II., and to

the annexed Description of the Plates. The motion to be given to the bell-
apparatus, or tide-machine, was to be effected by admitting the sea water
through a small aperture, of three inches in diameter, perforated in the solid
masonry, communicating with a cylindrical chamber, in the centre of the
building, measuring two feet in diameter, in which a float or metallic air-
tank, was to rise and fall with the tide. The train of machinery for this
apparatus was calculated for a perpendicular rise of only six feet, being
equal to the lowest neap-tides on this coast. During the period of flood-tide,
the air-vessel, in its elevation, by the pressure of the water, was to give
motion to machinery for tolling the bell, and winding up a weight; which
last, in its descent, during ebb-tide, was to continue the motion of the
machine, until the flood-tide again returned to perform the joint operation
of tolling the bell and raising the weight. A working model of a machine
upon this principle having been constructed, it was kept in motion for a
period equal to several months: this was effected by water run through a
succession of tanks, raised by a pump from the lower one to the higher, thus
producing the effect of flood and ebb tides. The time during which this
apparatus was in action, having been ascertained by an index, a constant
attendance upon the machine, during this protracted experiment, became
unnecessary.
The upper termination of the Beacon, in its present
General application of
tide-machinery.
form, does not admit of the application of the tide-
machine with the bell-apparatus. Experiments as
applicable to this have, however, been tried with a wind-instrument, to be
sounded by the pressure of the sea water; but it has not succeeded to the
extent that seems necessary for a purpose of this kind. We have indeed
thought, that the application of pressure as a power, communicated by the
waters of the ocean, in mechanical operations, might be carried to almost
any extent, by simply providing a chamber or dock, large enough for the
reception of a float or vessel, of dimensions equivalent to the force
required. This description of machinery is more particularly applicable in
situations where the tides have a great rise, as in the Solway Firth , Bristol
Channel, and other parts of the British seas; and at St Malo, on the coast of
France.
A Beacon of any form, unprovided with a light, must always be considered
an imperfect land-mark, and therefore various modes have been

contemplated, for more completely pointing out the
Leading Lights position of the Carr Rock. It has been proposed that
suggested.
phosphoric lights should be exhibited from the top of
the Building. This object, however, would be more certainly accomplished,
by the erection of leading lights, upon the Island of May and Mainland of
Fife. But these, with other plans which have been under the writer’s
consideration, would necessarily be attended with a great additional
expence, which, in the present instance, it is not thought advisable to incur.
Owing to the necessarily slow progress of the
Expence of the Carr
Rock works.
operations at the Carr Rock, the works were carried on
partly in connection with the new Light-house on the
Isle of May, and with the assistance of the ordinary shipping of the Light-
house establishment. This renders it difficult to give a distinct estimate of
the expence of the Beacon; but in so far as it can be collected, it may be
stated, including all charges, at about L. 5000.

Stations on the Coast of Scotland, where Light-houses have been
suggested as still necessary.

Having now taken notice of the works of the Light-house Board, so far as
they have been completed, up to and including part of the year 1823. We
may farther advert to the Light-house on the Rhins of Ilay, founded on the
23d of August last. The Northern Light-houses accordingly amount to
seventeen, erected at fourteen stations; and besides these, there are the
Beacons of North Ronaldsay and the Carr Rock. The position of these
establishments has not been chosen in regard to their respective distances
from each other, but agreeably to the commercial importance and dangers
connected with particular parts of the coast. Six of them, for instance, are
on the Friths of Forth and Clyde, at not more than from 20 to 25 miles
apart; while Kinnaird-Head, on the east coast, is about 72 miles from the
Bell Rock, and 70 miles from the Pentland Skerries. The Light-house upon
Island Glass, is about 130 miles south-west from the Pentland Skerries, and
120 miles northward from the Rhins of Ilay, being a stretch of 250 miles of
coast, with only one Light-house intervening. It must therefore be obvious,
that fourteen Light-house stations, which include two on the Isle of Man,

are too few for the Scottish coast, rendered formidable and dangerous, by a
vast number of islands and sunken rocks. The Commissioners have still,
accordingly, a wide field of operations before them, which they are
gradually occupying, as their funds will admit, and as the demands of
navigation and commercial intercourse seem to require. In the Appendix,
No. I. notice is taken of the most prominent points of land on the coast,
which have been brought under consideration as fit Stations for additional
Light-houses; and of these, one at Buchan-Ness, on the east coast, has
already been fixed on by the Board.

Constitution of the Board, and System of Management.

The affairs of the Northern Light-houses are managed
Constitution of the
Board.
by the Commissioners named in the different acts
already noticed; but the direction of the whole concerns
of the establishment almost entirely devolves upon the Commissioners
resident in Edinburgh, viz. The Lord Advocate and Solicitor-General, the
Lord Provost, and Senior Magistrate of that City, and the different Sheriffs,
Commissioners ex officio, who attend the Courts of Law. They hold
frequent meetings, and bestow their time and labour without any salary or
remuneration whatever. At their Meetings, all matters falling under the
economy, and connected with the arrangement of the Light-houses, are
regulated; full powers being conferred upon them as a Board to erect and
maintain such additional Light-houses as they shall deem necessary; so that
the system in this respect will at no very distant period be rendered
complete.
By the Statutes, the general rate of duty upon British
Rate of Duties.
ships is 2d. per register ton for passing one of, or all the
Scottish Lights; together with certain local duties of
½d. per ton, connected with the Lights of May and Inchkeith; and for
vessels which only pass the Lights on the Isle of Man, one farthing per ton
is the sole duty. Foreign ships in all cases pay double rates. These duties are
exigible at all the Ports in the United Kingdom, and are remitted to the
General Collector at Edinburgh, at the end of three or six months, according
to the extent of the respective collections.

The application of the Funds, and disposal of the Surplus, are fixed by the
Acts; which also require, that an account of the moneys received and
expended by the Board, be annually presented to the Lords of the Treasury,
the Convention of Royal Burghs of Scotland, and that two copies be sent to
the Board of Customs at Edinburgh, to be laid before both Houses of
Parliament.
The only permanent expence of management in the way
Expence of of remuneration to the Officers of the Board, are a
Management, &c.
salary of L. 500 to the Engineer; L. 380 to the Clerk,
who is also Cashier, and a fee of 50 guineas to the Auditor or Accountant.
The revenue of the Board may be stated at about L. 24,000 yearly; and as
the department of the Engineer is unconnected with the financial
arrangements, this fund is, in fact, managed for about L. 432, 10s. per
annum.
As to the practical arrangement, the Engineer visits all the Light-houses
annually, and Reports to the Board upon the various works and operations
connected with the different Light-houses,—the conduct of the light-
keepers,—and also upon the stores and supplies required for the ensuing
year,—and these, when approven of, are authorised and ordered by the
Commissioners. All accounts for supplies are laid before the Board, and
paid twice in the year.
At each ordinary Light-house, a Principal and an Assistant Light-keeper are
appointed, whose salaries are respectively L. 45, and L. 35 per annum,
besides a piece of ground, not less than 10 acres, with fuel, a suit of uniform
clothes every three years, and some other small perquisites. At the Bell
Rock, there are four light-keepers, three of whom are always at the Light-
house, while one is, by rotation, on shore at the establishment at Arbroath
for the families of the light-keepers. Their salaries are respectively L. 63,
and L. 57, 15s., and for each of the two ordinary Assistants L. 52, 10s. with
provisions for themselves while at the Rock, and apartments for their
families ashore. The light-keepers act under certain Instructions, and make
Monthly Returns to the Engineer’s office, copies of which will be found
under Appendix, No. I.
The shipping belonging to the Light-house service,
Shipping of the
Establishment.
besides attending boats, for visiting Light-houses on

insulated situations, consists of a vessel of about 50 tons register, which is
chiefly employed in attending the Bell Rock, to supply the house with
necessaries, and relieve the light-keepers in their turn. For general service,
another vessel of 140 tons is kept, which carries oil and other stores for the
lights, together with fuel and necessaries, for the use of the light-keepers,
and artificers, with their implements and apparatus, for making repairs at
the different stations. The Engineer makes his annual voyage of inspection
in this vessel, which is provided with cabins suitable for the reception of
such of the Commissioners as may occasionally visit the Light-houses.
This duty has been undertaken by various members of
Voyages of
Inspection.
the Board. In the Summer of 1814 a Committee,
consisting of Mr Hamilton, Sheriff of Lanarkshire, Mr
Erskine, Sheriff of Orkney, and Mr Duff, Sheriff of Forfarshire, with the
Engineer, made a voyage to inspect the different Light-houses already
erected, as also the most prominent of the stations on the coast, suggested
for the erection of Additional Lights. They sailed from Leith in the Yacht,
having for their companion Mr Walter Scott, and having visited the Light-
houses on the Isle of May and Bell Rock, with the establishment at
Arbroath, and that upon Kinnaird-Head in Aberdeenshire, they next landed
at Sumburgh-head in Shetland, on which a Light-house has since been
erected. Returning southward, they visited the Light-houses on the Start
Point of Sanday, and the Pentland Skerries in Orkney. Then steering
westward, they landed at Cape Wrath, one of the projected Stations for a
Light-house. They next touched at the Light-house on Island-Glass, one of
the Harris Isles. From thence they proceeded and landed upon the Rock
called Skerryvore, lying off the Island of Tiree, and were satisfied of the
practicability of erecting a Light-house there. Having visited the Light-
house on Ennistrahul, on the coast of Donegal, one of the Irish Lights, and
inspected their own establishments on the Mull of Kantire and Isle of
Pladda, the Commissioners landed at Greenock, after a voyage of nearly
seven weeks.
In July 1815, Mr Hamilton and Mr Duff, accompanied by the writer, sailed
in the Yacht from the Troon for Liverpool, where they were joined by Sir
William Rae; and after having had a meeting with Mr Gladstone on the
subject of the Lights on Man, they sailed thither, and fixed on the Stations
for the Lights on that Island, and on the Calf. They then proceeded to

Dublin, and communicated with the Irish Board for the affairs of Light-
houses, regarding certain arrangements for the advancement of the public
service committed respectively to their charge. Mr Crossthwaite, and other
Members of the Irish Board, accompanied them to the Light-house upon
Houth: and having visited the Tuskar Light-house, situate on an insulated
rock off the coast of Wexford, they bent their course to Holyhead, landed at
the Light-house on the South Stack; and on their return surveyed the
operations at the Light-house at Corsewall in Galloway then building, and
having visited Pladda, landed at Greenock.
In the Summer of 1818, Messrs Hamilton and Duff, with the writer, sailed
from Clyde, and inspected the Light-houses of Corsewall and on the Isle
and Calf of Man. The Yacht being then bound through the British Channel,
they availed themselves of the opportunity to visit some of the English
Light-houses, particularly the Smalls, off St David’s Head, the Longships,
off the Land’s End, the Edystone, the Caskets off Alderney, Hurst Castle,
Dungeness, and the North Foreland. By these voyages, the Commissioners
greatly enlarged their knowledge of the important concerns entrusted to
their charge. Some of them had thus seen and examined all the Light-houses
already established on the coast of Scotland, and most of the Sites in
contemplation for new erections on the northern parts of the Island.

ACCOUNT
OF THE
BELL ROCK LIGHT HOUSE

Drawn by Miss Stevenson.
Engraved by J. Horsburgh.

Pharos loquitur
Far in the bosom of the deep
O’er these wild shelves my watch I keep
A ruddy gem of changeful light
Bound on the dusky brow of Night
The Seaman bids my lustre hail
And scorns to strike his timorous sail

See page 530.

BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE.

ACCOUNT
OF THE
BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE.

CHAPTER I.
NAME OF THE ROCK,—SITUATION AND DIMENSIONS,—NATURAL HISTORY,—
DEPTH OF WATER, AND CURRENT OF TIDES.

In the Introduction, I have given an account of the institution of the Board
of Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; of the progress made in
the erection of Light-houses on the coast of Scotland; the probable future
operations of the Board, and the general economy or management of its
affairs. I now come to treat in detail of the Bell Rock Light-house, as the
chief object of this work; and, in the present chapter, I propose to give the
general history, and a description of this dangerous Rock.

Name of the Rock.

There is perhaps nothing in history more arbitrary, or
Name. difficult to account for, than the origin of proper names,
nor, in general, any research more unsatisfactory, than a
Origin of the Name. prolix inquiry into their etymology. The charts of the
nautical surveyor are the proper records for the names
of places upon the sea-coast; but such maps are comparatively of late
invention. The first sea-chart which we hear of in England, was that brought
from Spain in 1489, by Bartholomew Columbus, to illustrate his brother’s
theory of the discovery of America; and the earliest, applicable to the coast
of Scotland, is the chart of the voyage of James V., from the Firth of Forth,
by the Orkney and Western Islands, to the Firth of Clyde and coast of
Galloway, in the year 1540. This map was published at Paris by Nicolay
D’Arfiville, Seigneur Du d’Aulphinois, &c. chief Cosmographer to the

King of France, in 1583; and afterwards in Edinburgh, in the year 1688, by
John Adair, F. R. S., Geographer for Scotland.
The French writer gives a hydrographical description of
Inch Cape.
the coast of Scotland, in relation to the Royal voyage,
from Leith to the Solway Firth , noticing the distances
of places, the tides, and the rocks and sand-banks, or “dangers,” as they are
more generally termed, which it was necessary to avoid. In adverting to the
course from Leith by the east coast to Duncansby-Head, in Caithness, he
observes, “Entre Finismes [Fifeness] et la pointe nommé Redde, xii mille à
l’est sud-est du costé de la dicte pointe Redde, gist un danger appelé
Inchkope.” This is unquestionably the Bell Rock, the inch or island of the
Cape, and with a reference to the Redhead, to the north of Aberbrothock,
the highest and most remarkable point on that coast. In Adair’s collection of
nautical charts, and descriptive account of the eastern coast of Scotland,
published in 1703, the Bell Rock is indifferently termed Scape and Cape;
and the fishermen on the shores of Angus uniformly call it the Cape Rock.
In some old charts, particularly by the Dutch, whose name for a headland is
kappe, it is also called skape and scaup. It does not, however, seem that any
inference can be drawn from these various appellations; and, although it
were to be conjectured, that the Inch Cape was, at a very remote period,
permanently above water, and in all respects an island, the most rational
hypothesis would still remain, and be indeed confirmed, that this name was
given it on account of the relation it bore, especially in situation, to the cape
of Redhead.
It is perhaps more difficult to assign the true origin for
Bell Rock.
the modern term of Bell Rock, by which this dangerous
reef is now universally known. There is a tradition, that
an Abbot of Aberbrothock directed a bell to be erected on the Rock, so
connected with a floating apparatus, that the winds and sea acted upon it,
and tolled the bell, thus giving warning to the mariner of his approaching
danger. Upon similar authority, the bell, it is said, was afterwards carried off
by pirates, and the humane intentions of the Abbot thus frustrated. This
story has, by a modern poet, been made the subject of the ballad of “Sir
Ralf the Rover,” which, for the reader’s amusement, is inserted in the
Appendix, No. II.

Of the erection of the Bell, and of the machinery by
Erection of a Bell. which it was rung, if such ever existed, it would have
been interesting to have had some authentic evidence.
But, though a search has been made in the chartularies of the Abbey of
Aberbrothock, preserved in the Advocates’ Library, and containing a variety
of grants and other deeds, from the middle of the 13th to the end of the 15th
century, no trace is to be found of the Bell Rock, or any thing connected
with it. The erection of the bell is not, however, an improbable conjecture;
and we can more readily suppose that an attempt of that kind was made,
than that it had been intentionally removed, which in no measure accords
with the respect and veneration entertained by seamen of all classes for
land-marks; more especially, as there seems to be no difficulty in
accounting for the disappearance of such an apparatus unprotected, as it
must have been, from the raging element of the sea. It is not therefore
unlikely, that the popular appellation by which this Rock has more recently
been known, may owe its origin to the tradition of the Abbot’s humanity
and public spirit; and when we consider that the churchmen of those days
were well acquainted with the history of the celebrated Pharos of
Alexandria, and may have heard of the fire-towers and sea-marks, which
Mr Bryant, in his Mythology, conjectures existed in very remote times, it is
natural to suppose, that these learned persons had, at a pretty early period,
turned their attention to the subject, and had attempted, in the mode which
has been figured, to point out and guard against the danger.
Amidst these speculations, it must not, however, be overlooked, that this
Rock may have acquired its present name from its shape or figure; for at the
commencement of the author’s operations, he remarked, that the site of the
light-house, at some distance, had much the appearance of a large bell; and
although this part was not more than four feet above the general level of the
Rock, yet by supposing it to have been the nucleus of a larger mass, in the
central part of the Rock, gradually wasted away by the washing of the sea,
it may at a former period, from that resemblance, have obtained the
appellation it now retains.

Situation and Dimensions.

The Bell Rock may be described as a most dangerous
Situation. sunken reef, situate on the northern side of the entrance
of the great estuary or arm of the sea called the Firth of
Forth; and as such directly affecting the safety of all vessels entering the
Firth of Tay. Its position, as will be seen from the Charts, Nos. 3. and 4.,
which accompany this work, is in west longitude from Greenwich 2° 22´,
and in north latitude 56° 29´. From St Abb’s Head in Berwickshire, it bears
north by east per compass, (variation 27° 20´ west in the year 1819), and is
distant about 30 miles; from the Island of May north-east 17 miles; and
from the promontory or cape called the Redhead, in Forfarshire, it bears
south-west, and is distant 14 miles. But in easterly directions no land
intervenes between the Bell Rock and the coasts of Norway, Denmark,
Germany and Holland.
The dimensions of the north-eastern or higher
Dimensions.
compartment of the Rock where the light-house is built,
are about 427 feet in length, and 230 feet in breadth.
Besides these dimensions, the south-western reef extends about 1000 feet
from the main rock. The greatest length, therefore, of the Bell Rock, which
may be said to be dangerous to shipping, is about 1427 feet, and its greatest
breadth is about 300 feet; but the outline or margin of the Rock is quite
irregular, as will be seen from the Plates marked Nos. 5. and 6.

Natural History.

The Bell Rock consists of sandstone of a reddish
Mineralogy.
colour, which in some places contains whitish and
greenish spots of circular and oval forms, irregularly
interspersed through the rock. It is of a fine granular texture, containing
minute specks of mica. It is very hard, and, in the language of the artificer,
is tough, and rather difficult to work; and in some parts it is found to rise in
masses having a conchoidal fracture. Its angle of inclination with the
horizon is about 15 degrees, dipping towards the south-east. The strata are
thick and unequal, strongly cemented together, and running in the direction
of north-east and south-west. The surface of the Rock is rugged, and full of
cavities, so that walking upon it becomes rather difficult. A longitudinal
section of the Bell Rock, taken in a north-easterly and south-westerly

direction, may be described as consisting of a higher and a lower level. The
cross section, taken in a south-easterly and north-westerly direction,
exhibits the abrupt and pointed terminations of the strata, though it appears
level when seen from a distance.
It would be a speculation highly interesting to the
Wasting effects of the
Sea.
geologist, to inquire into the probable early history of
the Bell Rock, and the changes produced on it by the
wasting effects of the waters of the ocean. When we
Natural History.
consider the similarity of the red sandstone of this rock
with the Redhead of Forfarshire, and opposite shores of Berwick in the
neighbourhood of Dunglass, and take into view that there is a ridge or
shallower part of the bottom, which extends a considerable way from the
Bell Rock in the direction of these shores, we may infer, that the Rock itself
had extended at one time much further. We are also enabled to trace the
same formation, penetrating to the northward through Ross-shire, and quite
across the kingdom, in a southern direction, to Cumberland. At a period
indefinitely remote in the history of the globe, we may therefore imagine
that one continuous bed of red sandstone had stretched across the Firth ,
forming a barrier by which the great collection of waters of the Forth and
Tay have been pent up.
Proofs of the Sea In support of this opinion, we have the most
having occupied a unequivocal proofs of the waters of those friths having
higher level. formerly occupied a much higher level. Of these we
may notice the general appearance of their water-worn
shores, and a bed of oyster-shells near Borrowstounness, which has been
traced to the extent of three miles in length, and about two fathoms in
thickness, lying in their natural state, but now upwards of 35 feet above the
present level of the sea. Under these circumstances, and many others which
might be adduced, it is not improbable that the Bell Rock has at one time
been connected with the opposite coasts; and when we consider the general
waste of the land, which is apparent in all directions from the impulse of the
sea, it may at least be concluded, that at no very remote period, the Rock
has been of much greater superficial extent, and above the level of the
highest tides. Nor need we be surprised that such changes upon this remote
and insulated spot should have been lost sight of, owing to their gradual and

almost imperceptible effects, compared with the short period of the life of
man, and in absence of all testimony excepting that which is oral.
With regard to the marine Plants which grow upon the
Plants.
Bell Rock, we may observe that the lower parts of it are
covered with the stronger or larger sorts, as the great
tangle, Fucus digitatus, the roots of which rarely appear above the water,
while it is seen at the depth of several fathoms, growing with the greatest
luxuriance, and has often been observed by the author from a boat in fine
weather, as a means for ascertaining, by the direction of the leaf, the
changes of the currents of the tide at the bottom. The Badderlock, or
Henware, Fucus esculentus, is found only on the north-eastern and south-
eastern extremities of the Rock, growing at low water-mark of spring-tides,
and seems to prefer the most rapid currents of the sea, and places where the
heaviest breach takes place. In such situations it grows in great abundance
at the Bell Rock, where it has been measured of the length of eighteen feet,
and of proportionally increased breadth. Perhaps some of these plants are of
considerable age; but at the works of the Carr Rock Beacon, off Fifeness, it
was found that the growth of the badderlock was so very rapid, that the
plant attained to the length of seven feet upon the new building, in the
course of the winter and spring months. The higher parts of the Bell Rock
abound with the smaller fuci, as Fucus mamillosus, and F. palmatus, or
common dulse. F. lycopodiodes, alatus, and coccineus, are found on the
older stalks of the great tangle, and F. subfuscus and confervoides occupy
the smaller pools. In some places, the rocks are rendered slippery with Ulva
compressa and umbilicalis; and the higher parts of the Rock, and the
basement or lower courses of the light-house, are so covered with Conferva
rupestris, as to produce the appearance of a sward of grass.
Of the feathered tribe of animals at the Bell Rock, we
Animals.
notice the shag, cormorant, and herring-gull, which
sometimes rest upon the Rock when in search of
codlings and other small fishes. It also formed the resting-place of
numerous seals at the commencement of the operations of the Light-house,
but these amphibious animals, as well as the birds, have now almost
entirely left it. The common crab and lobster are sometimes found here in
the crevices of the rock. The Lepas balanoides, or acorn-shell, the common
limpet, mussels of a small size, and the white buckey or Buccinum lapillus,

abound on the rock. The Actinia crassicornis, Asterias glacialis and
oculata, are common. A minute crustaceous insect, called, by Dr Leach,
Limnoria terebrans (Lin. Trans, vol. XI. p. 371.), appeared in great numbers
in the submersed wood work of the temporary erections on the Rock.
So destructive to timber is this small insect, that the
Insect destructive to
Timber.
Norway logs, laid down to support the temporary
railways in 1807, when lifted in 1811, were found to
have been reduced by its ravages from 10 inches square to 7 inches, or at
the rate of about an inch in the year. The author having had occasion
afterwards to examine the timber-bridge of Montrose, found the attacks of
this insect upon the wooden piers to be so alarming as to endanger that
fabric; and after many trials for the preservation of timber in such
situations, the Trustees were ultimately induced to cover the upright beams
with sheet-copper. Upon another occasion, when the author was called to
inspect the Crinan Canal, he found the gates of the sea-locks so destroyed,
chiefly by this little animal, that the locks lost seven feet of their depth of
water in the course of the night. It is further remarked, that the deserted
cavities, formed by the perforations of the Limnoria, frequently become the
residence of larger marine insects, belonging to the Linnæan genus Oniscus.
In the year 1814, with a view to experiment on the
Experiments with
pieces of timber
effects of these destructive vermes, I fixed down
specimens of teak-wood, oak, black birch, Memel and
trenailed to the Rock.
Norway fir timber, on the Bell Rock. The only
specimen which remained imperforate till 1820, was the teak-wood. The
rest were almost entirely destroyed in the course of two or three years. This
may be regarded as a matter of some importance, in a national point of
view, in directing the employment of teak-wood for the sea-lock gates of
canals and for ship-timbers. From the excellency of the situation of the Bell
Rock for such experiments, I have caused another set of timbers to be
trenailed to the rock, in a situation where, like the former, they are
occasionally uncovered by the water. These last pieces of timber were laid
down in the month of October 1821. They are eighteen in number, each
measuring 5 inches square, and 30 inches in length; and are of the following
kinds, viz. British and American oaks and firs, Memel fir, Scotch elm,
beech, sycamore, larch, teak-wood, mahogany, bullet-tree, locust-wood, and
blue gum-wood from Van Dieman’s Land.

When the workmen first landed upon the Bell Rock,
Attempt to plant limpets of a very large size were common, but were
Muscles on the Rock.
soon picked up for bait. As the limpets disappeared, we
endeavoured to plant a colony of muscles, from beds at the mouth of the
river Eden, of a larger kind than those which seem to be natural to the rock.
These larger muscles were likely to have been useful to the workmen, and
might have been especially so to the light-keepers, the future inhabitants of
the rock, to whom that delicate fish would have afforded a fresh meal, as
well as a better bait than the limpet; but the muscles were soon observed to
open and die in great numbers. For some time this was ascribed to the
effects of the violent surge of the sea, but the Buccinum lapillus having
greatly increased, it was ascertained that it had proved a successful enemy
to the muscle. The buccinum being furnished with a proboscis capable of
boring, was observed to perforate a small hole in the shell, and thus to suck
out the finer parts of the body of the muscle; the valves of course opened,
and the remainder of the fish was washed away by the sea. The perforated
hole is generally upon the thinnest part of the shell, and is perfectly circular,
of a champhered form, being wider towards the outward side, and so
perfectly smooth and regular, as to have all the appearance of the most
beautiful work of an expert artist. It became a matter extremely desirable to
preserve the muscle, and it seemed practicable to extirpate the buccinum.
But after we had picked up and destroyed many barrels of them, their
extirpation was at length given up as a hopeless task. The muscles were thus
abandoned as their prey: and in the course of the third year’s operations, so
successful had the ravages of the buccinum been, that not a single muscle of
a large size was to be found upon the rock; and even the small kind which
breed there, are now chiefly confined to the extreme points of the rock,
where it would seem their enemy cannot so easily follow them.
In speaking of the habits of fishes, it deserves notice
Habits of Fishes.
that they have their particular grounds and shores which
they frequent; for while the vessels attending the works
at the Bell Rock were stationed there, different kinds of fish were caught as
the depth and bottom varied. About high-water, and especially during ebb-
tide, when the sea is smooth on the rock, the Podley (chiefly the fry of the
coal-fish, but including also the young of the Gadus virens) is so numerous,
as almost entirely to cover it from view. Near the rock, the small red cod is
often found in abundance: at some distance, as the bottom, which is covered

with marine plants near the rock, alters to coral, gravel, shell sand, fine sand
and mud, all of which occur in a range of depths from 4 to 23 fathoms
towards the north, different kinds of fish are found; first, the codling, which
ceases to be wholly red, but becomes only speckled with reddish spots;
then, upon the finer or mud grounds in the track of the tides of the Firth of
Tay, whiting, haddock, flounder, and occasionally the sole. On the southern
side of the rock, where the water deepens to 35 fathoms, the large white
cod, in company with ling, conger-eel, halibut, skate, thornback, plaise,
turbot, wolf-fish and large coal-fish are found. The dog-fish appears to be
very general, and seems to prey chiefly upon the haddock and cod. The
mackerel and gurnard are found together near the surface, and do not seem
to be confined to particular grounds, but occur wherever the water is of a
considerable depth. Herrings are found in the bays of the opposite shores in
great abundance at the fishing season, when they are understood to be
migrating towards the south. It has often been observed, in the course of the
Bell Rock operations, that, during the cold weather of spring and autumn,
and even at all seasons, in stormy weather, when the sea is much agitated by
wind, the fishes disappear entirely from the vicinity of the rock, probably
retreating into much deeper water, from which they do not seem to return,
until a change of weather has taken place; so much was this attended to by
the seamen employed on this service, that they frequently prognosticated
and judged of the weather from this habit of the fishes, as well as from the
appearances of the sky.

Depth of Water.

At the time of high-water of spring-tides, the south-
Depth of Water.
western reef is about 16 feet, or nearly the whole rise of
the tide, under the surface of the water; while the part
Depth of Water upon of the rock on which the light-house is built, is about 12
the Bell Rock.
feet below high water-mark of spring-tides: At low-
water of neap-tides, hardly any part of the rock is visible: But at low-water
of spring-tides, the general level of the north-eastern end where the light-
house is built, is about four feet perpendicular above the level of the sea,
though particular points measure six or even seven feet in height above the
low-water mark of spring-tides.

At the distance of about 100 yards from the rock in all
Depth at the distancedirections, excepting on the south-western reef, there is
of 100 yards, and
upwards from it. a depth of water varying from two to three fathoms at
low water of spring tides. On the north-west side, or in
the direction of the shores of Forfar and Fife, the greatest depth is 23
fathoms; but on the south-eastern or seaward side, in the direction of the dip
or inclination of the strata, the water deepens more suddenly to 35 fathoms;
in the same direction from the rock, however, the soundings again become
less, being only 22 fathoms upon Mars Bank, distant about 33 miles; this
bank appears to be a deposition formed by the joint operation of the waters
of the Friths of Forth and Tay, influenced by the great tidal wave of the
German Ocean. It may here be noticed as a fact connected with the depth of
the German Ocean, that at Queensferry passage, in the Firth of Forth, the
depth of the water is about 35 fathoms, while the greatest depth of the sea
across to Denmark, does not exceed 45 fathoms. The depths of the German
Ocean will be seen, by inspecting Chart No. 3., where sectional lines are
delineated between various points of Great Britain and the opposite
Continent, on which the reader will see the relative depths marked by
shaded lines, in a new and it is hoped a perspicuous manner.

Current of the Tides.

The tides at the Bell Rock, are observed to follow the
Currents of the Tide.
same laws as on the opposite shores of the Firth of
Forth. The currents along the coast take their direction
Tides at the Bell from the figure of the land, and, in their course, they are
Rock.
therefore occasionally deflected from, and inclined
towards it. At the Bell Rock the flood-tide sets south-west, and the ebb-tide
north-east, being nearly in the direction of the shores of Forfar and
Kincardine. The velocity of the water in spring-tides, or when the sun and
moon are in conjunction, and in opposition, is about three miles per hour,
but in neap-tides, or at the quadratures of the moon, the current is only at
the rate of about one mile per hour. On the days of new and full moon it is
high-water upon the Bell Rock at half past one o’clock, being about the
same periodic time as at the harbour of Arbroath, or nearest point of the
mainland. In the ordinary state of the weather, the perpendicular rise and

fall of the sea at the Bell Rock, in spring-tides, is 15 feet, and in neap-tides,
8 feet; but so much depends upon the direction of a prevailing tract of
winds, that the tides are often found to vary from 1 to 3 feet above and
below these numbers. This irregularity in the tides of the German Ocean
and its subsidiary friths or inland seas will be easily accounted for, by
considering the effect of westerly winds passing for a length of time over
the Atlantic, which must naturally force an undue quantity of water from
thence into the entrance of the North Sea, between the coasts of Scotland
and Norway; while the Strait of Dover, to the southward, from the same
cause, is gorged by the surplus waters of the British Channel flowing in an
opposite direction, and checking the tide of the German Ocean. When the
winds blow from southerly and easterly directions, the reverse of this
happens, and the waters are then proportionally low.
A curious anomaly connected with the flowing and
In and Off shore
Currents.
ebbing of the sea, in the early part of each tide, is
observable in the contrary currents which take place
along the shore, and at a distance from it. For example, the flood-tide
begins to flow in many situations two or even three hours sooner on the
shore than at the distance of from one mile to four miles in the offing. The
same thing also happens with regard to the ebb-tide, which begins to fall
and run in a contrary direction to the flood-tide, two or three hours sooner
on the shore than at a distance. These effects are very different from the
state of things three or four leagues from the land, or in the open sea, where
the lateral motion of the tide-waters is scarcely sensible. That an extensive
tract of coast should produce changes on the current of the tides, is perhaps
what we should expect; but it is somewhat curious to find the same
appearances connected with small islets, and, as in the case of the Bell
Rock, even with an insulated reef, situate at the distance of 12 miles from
the land, and sunk to the depth of from 2 to 3 fathoms under the surface of
high-water. So strikingly observable is this, that the tide begins to ebb about
two hours sooner on the Bell Rock than at the short distance of one mile
from it. In the course of the light-house operations this was rendered
sufficiently obvious, by the swinging round of the several vessels at their
moorings according to the flood and ebb tides. For example, the Floating
Light-ship was moored about three miles in a north-west direction from the
Bell Rock, and the moorings of the Tender and two Stone Lighters, were
respectively laid down at the distance of ¾ and ½ mile from it, as will be

seen from Plate V. Now, these vessels were all found to swing to the tide at
periods proportional to their distance from the rock. Although it may,
therefore, seem strange, that this comparatively small object should affect
the tides in its vicinity in a manner similar to the shores of an extensive
coast; yet, as the rock shelves outwards, with an extensive base, especially
on the northern side, it must impede the under current of the tide, and
indeed forcibly proves the existence of such under currents.
To account for these in and off shore tides, or central
Not accounted for by
Writers on the
and marginal streams, would be interesting. But to what
subject. cause shall we ascribe them? Sir Isaac Newton, and the
other eminent philosophers who have followed that
great man in considering the theory of the tides, confine their attention
chiefly to an explanation of the influences of the sun and moon, and the
laws of gravitation, in affecting the waters of the ocean, leaving it to the
result of experience and observation to account for such anomalies as those
to which we now allude. It is noticed by Adair, Mackenzie, and other
nautical surveyors, that the tides run longer upon the shore than in the
offing, and the advantage of working a ship with in and off shore tides, is
familiar to every mariner. The existence of these opposite currents was also
known to the author, prior to the commencement of the Bell Rock works,
but they had not struck him so forcibly till that period. For here, even after
the flood-tide had overflowed the rock, and put a stop to the operations, the
boats in carrying the artificers on board of the Tender, had still to row
against the current of a strong ebb-tide.
It would be foreign to this work to enter into the theory
Currents along Shore
considered as Eddy-
of the tides generally; all, therefore, that is here
tides. proposed, is to endeavour to account for these in and
off shore currents. In doing this, however, it will be
necessary to observe, that the great wave or “theoretical tide,” as it has been
termed by the late eminent Professor Robison, is produced by the united
attraction of the sun and moon, which, between the Tropics, has been
calculated by philosophers to raise the water from 8 to 14 feet
perpendicularly. It is observable, that the attractions of these heavenly
bodies elevate the parts of the ocean to which they are vertical, without
having any direct tendency to progressive or lateral motion. The currents
along our coasts, may therefore be considered merely as Eddy-tides,

occasioned by the interposition of the land, which obstructs the undulating
motion incident to the rise or fall of a fluid. In this manner the land may be
said to displace a portion of the tidal waters which have been elevated
above the medium level of the sea; and were it not for such obstruction, the
great waves of the tide might be supposed to undulate indefinitely over the
expanse of the ocean. To compare small things with great, these effects may
be conceived as in some degree exemplified, by the disturbing effect of a
vessel passing along a navigable canal, or the undulations which are
observable in the wake of a ship or wheels of a steam-boat in motion on a
smooth sea.

The great wave which supplies the British tides,
Progress of the Great appears to be propagated between the coast of Labrador
Waves of the Tides.
and Greenland, on the one hand, and the European
shores on the other; and this great wave seems to be divided into two lesser
waves. One of these flows between Ireland and the coast of France, into the
British and St George’s Channels; while the other enters by the North Sea
into the German Ocean; and in its course from north to south, supplies all
the friths, rivers, and bays connected with it, invariably in the form of In
and Off shore tides, which are every where observable along the margin of
this great basin. This northern wave is found to occupy about 12 hours in
flowing southward from the 58th to the 52d degree of latitude, or from the
Orkney Islands to the numerous Sand-banks which pervade and encumber
the apex of the German Ocean, where the currents become extremely
desultory and irregular. The coast of the British Isles, accordingly, may be
said to, displace a portion of this northern wave, and thus to produce the
irregularities which we are endeavouring to account for.
At present, we shall confine our attention to the tides of
Progressive periods of
High-Water in the
the Firth of Forth. Here, as on other parts of the coast,
Firth of Forth. the tidal waters have a tendency to flow towards the
shores and higher parts of the Forth, till the instant of
high-water upon the shore, when the tide begins to ebb, and run in a
contrary direction. A central stream, however, continues to run with
unabated force, as flood-tide, during two or even three hours longer, as
before noticed, according to the situation and local circumstances of the
coast. It appears, from a comparison of the several periods of high-water on
the shores of the Firth of Forth, as nearly as some of them could be
ascertained, that the precise time of high-water becomes later and later in
the same tide, as we proceed westward; at the Bell Rock, for example, it is
high-water on the days of new and full moon, as before noticed, at ½ past 1
o’clock; at the Carr Rock, at ¾ past 1; at Elie, still further up the Firth , at 2;
Kinghornness, at ¼ past 2; Queensferry, at ¾ past 2; and at Alloa, at ¾ past
3 o’clock. The off-shore stream of the tide continues to flow proportionally
longer till it has supplied the higher parts of this estuary with its portion of
tidal waters; and in like manner, the central stream of ebb-tide continues its
course till these waters are again run off.

In many points, it is found, that the operation of the
Currents at the Mouth tidal waters of extensive arms of the sea, bears a close
of the Dee and other
Rivers. resemblance to what is observable upon the small scale
in the currents of rivers, especially at their junction with
the ocean. An interesting example of this occurs on the river Dee, which
falls rapidly into the harbour of Aberdeen. Here the author having occasion
to make some observations on the tides in the summer of 1812, stationed
several assistants at low-water mark, between the entrance of the harbour
and the bridge, about two miles up the river. The waters of the Dee, even at
the entrance of the harbour, have almost a constant current seaward,
notwithstanding the opposite direction of the flood-tide of the Ocean. On
the occasion alluded to, one of his assistants, a very intelligent shipmaster,
continued at his post while the water flowed up to his middle; and, when
accosted about his situation, he significantly observed, “That it was rather
extraordinary, as the stream had never ceased to indicate the continuance of
an ebb-tide, while the water was still rising upon his body.”
In connection with these observations on the tides,
Water salt at bottom
and fresh at top.
some experiments were also made with an instrument
adapted for lifting water from considerable depths,
without the possibility of its intermingling with the surface water. By means
of this instrument, the water at the bottom of the Dee, at Aberdeen, was
found to be salt, while that at the surface was quite fresh. These streams of
fresh and salt water run in distinct currents, and in contrary directions, the
salt water, from its greater specific gravity, flowing at the bottom of the
river, and fluctuating with the level of the ocean, while the fresh water is
actually lifted upwards, and continues all the while to flow seaward on the
surface of the salt water. Towards the point of high-water, however, the
flood-tide gains strength on the margin of the basin of the harbour, where
the water becomes salt, and forms an eddy-tide in a contrary direction to the
central stream, which is observed still to run toward the sea. Having made
similar observations on the waters of the Thames, the Garonne, and other
rivers, with nearly the same results, after making allowance for the more
level state of the country, in the track of these great streams,—it is
concluded, that the currents at the embouchure of rivers bear a strong
resemblance to the operation of the in and off shore tides of the ocean.

We further observe, that the great wave of the German
Phenomena of in and Ocean produces its tides in regular succession, and at
off shore Tides
accounted for. stated periods, as it moves from north to south; but the
tides of the more inland seas are subject to many
irregularities, both in their periodic times, and in the direction of their
currents. Let us suppose, then, that we have arrived at the instant of high-
water on the shores at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, and that the tidal
waters are then moving in a body, and with a certain pressure, towards the
higher parts of the Firth , and even affecting the river above the bridge of
Stirling. We find, that at the entrance of this estuary, on the days of new and
full moon, it is high-water at a quarter past one o’clock; but at Alloa, situate
70 miles above the Bell Rock, it is not high-water till about two hours and a
half later. The in-shore tidal waters having to encounter the shelving shores,
islands, sunken rocks, and projecting points of land, which lie in their
course up the Firth , acquire lateral as well as perpendicular motion, and
being thus checked in their progress, are brought sooner to a maximum state
than the off-shore stream, which flows in deeper water, and comparatively
free of obstruction, till it reaches its ultimate limits; though it gradually
diminishes in breadth, till the stream of the new tide gaining strength
becomes general; and the central current, formerly running in a contrary
direction, at length disappears, and takes the course of the new tide.
We would, therefore, be understood to ascribe this anomaly in the flowing
and ebbing of the sea, to the obstruction which the current of its waters
meets not only at the surface or margin, but at the bottom, which, from the
variety of the soundings of the depths, appears to be as various as the face
of the land. A striking proof of this is afforded at the Bell Rock: on the
northern side of which there are 11 fathoms, at the distance of about three
quarters of a mile; while, on the southern side, and at a similar distance, the
water deepens to 35 fathoms; so that a perpendicular section of this rock
under water forms a precipitous declivity, such as we are quite accustomed
to see on the land. Now, if we apply this irregular conformation of the
bottom of the sea, to the production of the in and off shore tides, and
conceive that the tidal currents extend their motion to the bottom, it must be
evident, that this obstruction presented to the stream will bring the tides to a
maximum state sooner on the northern side of the rock, where the water is
so much shallower, than on the southern side. This is also agreeable to
observation; for, the tides upon the Bell Rock begin to flow and ebb one

hour sooner than at the distance of about three quarters of a mile from it on
the northern side, and about two hours and a half sooner than at the same
distance on the southern side. The marginal current is thus checked by the
shallowness of the water, and the projecting points of land; while the central
stream, flowing comparatively without obstruction, continues to run till the
most inland creeks are supplied with tidal water; and vice versâ, it continues
its stream outwards, till these waters are again run off.
The progressive times of high-water, at intermediate
Progressive times of
high-water.
points between the Bell Rock and the port of Alloa in
the Firth of Forth, appear to follow the same general
law, as the great wave of the German Ocean in its progress from the
Orkneys southward. These observations on the tides of the Forth apply
equally to the Firth and River of Tay, and indeed to all the tributary streams
and arms of the sea which communicate with the German Ocean, according
to their local situations and magnitudes.
If due allowance be made for the peculiar situation and
Tides of the
Mediterranean and
circumstances of the Mediterranean and Baltic seas, it
Baltic Seas. is apprehended, from all that we have been able to learn
of the operation of the currents at the Strait of Gibraltar,
and Sound of the Cattigate, that these seas are supplied and discharged by in
and off shore tides or currents, under certain modifications, and making due
allowance for local circumstances, in the same manner as on all other parts
of the coast.
I have been thus particular relative to the in-shore and off-shore tides,
because they appear in a very puzzling form to the mariner, while writers on
the theory of the tides are almost silent on this subject.

CHAPTER II.
DANGEROUS POSITION OF THE BELL ROCK.—SIR ALEXANDER COCHRANE’s
LETTER TO THE LIGHT-HOUSE BOARD.—DESIGNS FOR THE BELL ROCK
LIGHT-HOUSE.—BILL BY LORD ADVOCATE HOPE IN 1803.—REPORT OF
TRADERS OF LEITH.—RESOLUTION OF THE LIGHT-HOUSE BOARD TO APPLY
AGAIN TO PARLIAMENT.—MEMORIAL TO THE BOARD OF TRADE.—BILL BY
LORD ADVOCATE ERSKINE.—REPORT OF THE COMMITTEE OF THE HOUSE OF
COMMONS.—THE BILL PASSED.

Dangerous Position of the Bell Rock.

Whatever may have been the early state of the Inch
Dangerous Position of
Cape or Bell Rock, as an Island, its present character is
the Bell Rock.
strictly that of a sunken rock; and, as such, its relative
situation on the eastern shores of Great Britain has long rendered it one of
the chief impediments to the free navigation of that coast. It is almost
unnecessary to remark, that there are only three great inlets or estuaries
upon this coast, to which the mariner steers, when overtaken by easterly
storms in the North Sea or German Ocean. These are the Humber, and the
Friths of Forth and Moray; of which the Firth of Forth is the principal
rendezvous. The mouth of the River Thames, excepting in certain narrow
and intricate channels, has not a sufficient depth of water, and is so much
encumbered with sand-banks, that no vessel can enter it under night, or
approach it in bad weather. On the coast and shores in the neighbourhood of
the Humber, the land is flat, and defective in those bold and characteristic
features which are essential to the situation of an anchorage for ships in bad
weather when they cannot keep at sea. The entrance of the Humber is also
considerably obstructed with sand-banks, of which the mariner is, if
possible, more afraid than of rocks, because more liable to uncertainty, by
the shifting of their position, and thereby changing the direction of the
accustomed channels. The great places of resort for ships, therefore, in the
North Sea, are the Roads of Leith and Cromarty, lying in the Friths of Forth
and Moray, as will be seen from Plate III., in both of which we find the
natural advantages of an ample entrance, and a coast so strongly marked as
to be easily recognised by the mariner. But from the dangerous position of

the Bell Rock, his approach to the shores of this coast, prior to the erection
of the Light-house there, was liable to the greatest peril and uncertainty.
A memorable example of this occurred during a storm
Great storm in
December 1799.
from the south-east, in the month of December 1799.
This storm having continued with little intermission for
three days; a number of vessels were driven from their moorings in the
Downs and Yarmouth Roads; and these, together with all vessels navigating
the German Ocean at this time, were drifted upon the coast of Scotland.
Many found shelter, both in Leith and Cromarty Roads, which, from the
state of the winds, lay quite open for their reception. But still, from the
dread of the Bell Rock, in the one case, and the danger of mistaking the
entrance to the Firth of Dornoch for that of Moray, by taking the northern
instead of the southern side of Tarbetness, in the other, a great number of
vessels were lost, or much hardship was sustained by the mariner in seeking
safety in higher latitudes. It has even been reckoned, that seventy sail of
ships were either stranded or lost upon the eastern coast of Scotland during
that gale, when many of their crews perished.
At the Bullers of Buchan, near Peterhead, alone, on the first night of this
storm, the wrecks of seven vessels were found in a small cove, without one
survivor of the crews, to give an account of their disaster. As a remarkable
instance of escape on this occasion, it may be mentioned, that a coal-ship,
in ballast, returning from London to Newcastle, was carried completely
round the coast of Great Britain and Ireland, the first land made by this
vessel, after leaving Flamborough Head in Yorkshire, being the Land’s End
of Cornwall. Having put into Falmouth to refit the ship and refresh the
exhausted crew, she continued her voyage up the British Channel to the
Straits of Dover, and so to Newcastle, thus making a complete circuit of the
British shores. In the summer of 1800, the writer saw the wrecks of two fine
vessels on the Orkney Islands; one of which, on her way to Gibraltar, had
been as far as Ushant on the coast of France, when, by contrary winds, she
had been driven back to the Downs, and, in the month of December 1799,
she was ultimately stranded on the Island of Sanday, along with the other
vessel, which in that gale had been driven from Yarmouth Roads.
From the situation and circumstances attending the Bell Rock, it may well
be supposed, that this dangerous sunken reef was found to be either the
direct or ultimate cause, in many cases of shipwreck upon the eastern coast

of Great Britain, and as such, every scheme which had for its object the
fixing of some distinguishing mark upon it, was regarded as a matter of
public interest, claiming a degree of attention proportionate to its apparent
practicability and usefulness. The traditionary story of the Bell said to have
been erected by the Abbots of Aberbrothock upon this rock may, perhaps,
have given rise to many plans of this nature. But, on account of the limited
advantages which must have attended any erection merely in the form of a
beacon, without a light, upon a sunken rock, at so great a distance from
land,—none of the many proposals of this kind which were from time to
time suggested, ever met with the serious attention of the public. It was
evident, that nothing but a light-house could not be essentially useful, and
that all temporary erections in a situation of this kind were to be avoided.
The following letter from Sir Alexander Cochrane,
Sir Alex. Cochrane’s
Letter.
while stationed on the eastern coast in the year 1793, is
particularly deserving of a place in this work, as well
from being the first official application made to the Commissioners on the
subject of the Bell Rock, as on account of that officer’s great experience in
nautical affairs, and the clear and decided manner in which the advantages
which would result from the erection of a light-house there, are pointed out.
“On board his Majesty’s ship Hind, Leith Roads, January 7. 1793.
Gentlemen, I think it a duty I owe to the public, to call your attention, as
Trustees for the Northern Lights, to the great hazard and peril that the trade
of the east of Scotland is subject to, from the want of a light-house being
erected on the Bell or Cape Rock, the only dangerous one upon this coast,
from the Staples to Duncansbay-head, except the Carr, which lies so close
to Fifeness and the Isle of May as to render it comparatively of less
consequence.
“The situation of the Cape being about 12 miles from the nearest shore,
bearing off the Redhead, by compass, S. ¾ W.—Taybar, SE. by E. ¼ E.—
Fifeness, NE. by E.—Isle of May Light, NE. 17 miles, (consequently, too
distant to be useful to shipping during the night); this rock is therefore
placed in the most dangerous situation possible, for the trade of the Friths of
Forth and Tay; the more so, from the prevailing winds on the coast, being
from the W.NW. to SW., which occasion vessels bound inwards, to stretch
across from shore to shore, that is, from the south to the north, or the
opposite, according to their situations. This they can do in the day time; but

at night, the danger of falling in with the Cape Rock, prevents them from
standing to the northward of the Firth of Forth, and they are thereby
prevented from taking the advantage of working up under the land in St
Andrew’s Bay, by which they would get into smooth water, and avoid the
heavy swell and gusts of wind that are always met with in the opening of
this Firth .
“Ships from the Baltic, which have not made the land, are often driven off
the coast, from the caution they are obliged to take, in consequence of their
not knowing what their situation is respecting this rock; which, from being
covered early in the tide, and having little or no sea or breakers on it in
moderate weather, the wind being off the shore, the soundings are no guide
whatever; for, within one mile of the south-east side, the depth of water is
32 fathoms, (the general soundings on the coast); from all which
circumstances, a ship standing in for the shore, perhaps without having had
an observation of the sun for some days, runs the utmost danger of being
wrecked. From the experience I have, in consequence of cruizing on this
coast, I give it as my most decided opinion, that the greatest good
consequence would arise to the trade of Scotland, were a light-house
erected on it; but, in the event of its being so, a distinction must be made
between it and the light of May, such as is adopted at Scilly and the
Caskets, the light on which revolves, I believe, once in a minute, so as to be
obscured and visible alternately.”
Although the subject of this letter had occasionally
Expence of a Light-
house on the Bell
occupied the attention of the Commissioners of the
Rock, as estimated byNorthern Light-houses, yet the Bell Rock, as the site of
the Public. a light-house, was then for the first time brought
formally under the notice of the Board; and some
erection there, was considered a primary object, whenever the funds should
be in a state to meet the expence of such a work. But, the estimates for such
an undertaking admitted of an almost unlimited range of amount, both from
the nature of the buildings which were proposed, and on account of works
of this kind being subject to unavoidable risk in all their stages, from the
commencement till the completion. In conversation, it was common to
compare the situation of the Bell Rock with the rocks of the Eddystone off
Plymouth Sound, and Corduan at the mouth of the Garonne. The expence of
erecting a light-house on the Eddystone, though understood to have been

about L. 20,000, has never been communicated to the
Designs for the Bell public by the lessees of the light-house duties, from the
Rock Light-house.
consideration, perhaps, of their being obliged, by their
agreement with the Trinity Board of London, to erect and uphold the
building, and also from claims which they afterwards made, for having the
value of the light-house reimbursed to them at the end of their lease; but it
was well known that the present building is no less than the third erection
which the lessees had made upon the Eddystone, between 1696 and 1759,
or in the space of 63 years. It was therefore natural to conclude that a
building on the Bell Rock, situate under a greater depth of water, being
nearly on a level with low-water mark, would be a work of greater difficulty
and expence, than the Eddystone light-house, where the top of the rock is
on a level with high-water mark. We are also left in the dark in forming any
opinion on the important point of expence with regard to the French work at
Corduan, but we know that it met with repeated misfortunes while in
progress, and that it occupied from 1584 till 1610, or 26 years in building.
The main rock here is about a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth,
and, in its position as a sunken reef, it resembles the Bell Rock more than
the Eddystone. From the difficulties which attended the erection of these
two celebrated light-houses,—both of which the writer has visited,—the
erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock, in comparison with these, was
estimated by the public at so wide a range as from L. 20,000 even to
L. 100,000.
Funds for the Light- In the year 1793, when Admiral Cochrane addressed his
house Board letter to the Light-house Board, its surplus funds
inadequate. amounted only to a few hundred pounds; a sum so
inadequate to meet the necessary expenditure of such a
work, that the Commissioners judged it better for the interests of
navigation, to go forward with the less expensive improvements on other
parts of the coast, aware that nothing essential could be undertaken at the
Bell Rock without the effectual aid of Government.
In this state, matters were allowed to rest till the great storm in December
1799, already noticed, which roused the public mind to fresh speculations
about the necessity of some erection being made upon the Bell Rock; not
merely as a local improvement, but as one essentially calculated to benefit
the ships navigating the German Ocean, by opening the Firth of Forth more

effectually as a place of safety in easterly storms, so that the Bell Rock, in
place of being the dread of mariners, might in future become a point from
which they would take their departure, and for which they might steer in
sailing for the coast. Nautical and commercial men, especially, were
interested, and felt this state of things in its fullest extent. Remarks were
accordingly made in several of the periodical publications of the day,
calling the attention of the public to the erection of a light-house there, as a
subject of national importance.
In order to advance this object, the Corporation of the Trinity-House of
Leith, made public advertisements, calling on persons likely to produce
some practical plan that might lead to the means of making the erection in
question. This, of course, produced various propositions on the subject.

Designs for the Bell Rock Light-house.

The late Captain Joseph Brodie of the Royal Navy,
Designs by Captain
Brodie and Mr
prepared and brought forward a model of a cast-iron
Couper. light-house, supported upon four pillars, to be built and
connected together in a very strong manner. This model
was made by Mr Joseph Couper, Iron-Founder in Leith, who, in conjunction
with Captain Brodie, proposed to erect a light-house on this plan on the Bell
Rock, on being authorised to draw certain duties from shipping for their
mutual remuneration. With this view, they sent their model, and made
certain propositions to the different commercial towns on the coast, as
Newcastle, Dundee, and Aberdeen. After having been at considerable
trouble and expence with this scheme, as a private adventure, these
gentlemen applied to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses,
requesting their inspection of this model. The design, however, was not
altogether approved of by the Light-house Board, in the form in which it
had been modelled; yet such was the confidence of its projectors, that at
different times, in pursuance of their plan, they erected two temporary
beacons, constructed with spars of fir-timber; these unfortunately were
almost immediately washed down. The Merchants of Leith, applauding the
great perseverance of these gentlemen, aided their exertions by a
subscription of about L. 150, when they erected a third beacon on the Bell
Rock on a more extended scale. It consisted of four spars of fir-timber, each

about 40 feet in length, strengthened by flat bars of iron, laid the lengthway
of the spars, which were kept in their places by rings or hoops of iron,
firmly wedged over them. These spars, when erected upon the rock, formed
a common diameter of about 20 feet at the base, and crossed each other
about 6 feet from the top. They were let into holes made in the rock, of
about ten inches in depth, and were fixed by straps of iron, forming bats of
about two inches square, and about six inches in length, which were also let
into the rock, and run up with melted lead. At the place of junction, near the
top, the spars were bolted together with iron, and above this, they were
connected with small pieces of timber, nailed to the principal spars. After
much labour and difficulty, with the assistance of a number of workmen,
this temporary erection was fixed on the Bell Rock, in the month of July
1803. In the month of August the writer landed on the rock and examined it;
but when the gales of winter set in, this erection also disappeared, having
never been seen after the 20th of December. Nothing further was attempted
to be done upon the Bell Rock till the author commenced the Light-house
operations in the year 1807, by direction of the Commissioners of the
Northern Light-houses.
Not discouraged, however, by the failure of these
Make further
proposals to the
trifling works, Captain Brodie and Mr Couper
Light-house Board. addressed a letter to the Light-house Board, in which an
offer was made to erect a cast-iron light-house, in the
space of two years, agreeably to the model already alluded to, and on the
following terms, viz. L. 6000 to be paid over to them during the first year of
the work, together with the produce of a certain Duty for the erection, to be
exacted from shipping, as a Northern Light, until the original cost of the
work should be paid off. But this description of building having been
considered objectionable, Captain Brodie proposed to construct a new
model, upon an improved plan, by which the base of the building, instead of
being raised on pillars, was to be continuous, with small interstices or holes
in its circumference, or outer casing, to admit the water into the interior
void, with a view to lessen the weight and expence of metal, and check the
force of the sea. But this also appeared to the Commissioners to be
defective, when compared with an erection of stone, like the Eddystone and
Tour de Corduan Light-houses.

Captain Brodie having, however, shewn a most
Captain Brodie’s laudable zeal in this work, and considering that he must
remuneration.
have expended a sum of money beyond what had been
subscribed for the erection of the Spar Beacon, the Commissioners
proposed to make him a liberal allowance for the last model, to the
preparation of which they had given their countenance. He was accordingly
requested to state the expence of this model, with a view to his
reimbursement. But, under an erroneous impression, he brought forward an
account, containing an enumeration of charges connected with the Bell
Rock, from the year 1792; and by applying these items to the imaginary
profits of trade, the sum amounted to several thousand pounds. This
appeared so contrary to the views of the Commissioners, that the account
was returned, with an offer of L. 400 in full of all claims. This sum,
however, was refused, and another proposition made, that the Board should
apply to Government to have his services publicly rewarded. But it was
finally intimated, that L. 400 were at his disposal; and here the matter rested
till after Captain Brodie’s decease, when that sum, with interest, was, in
1816, paid to his widow.
In noticing the progress of the designs of the Bell Rock
The Author’s early
designs for the Bell
Light-house, it will here be necessary to give some
Rock Light-house. detail of the writer’s own exertions in the preliminary
stages of this measure, in his capacity of Engineer for
the Light-house Board. In the summer of 1794, when on a voyage to the
Northern Light-houses, in passing the Bell Rock, he directed the vessel to
be brought near it, when he had an opportunity of observing the sea
breaking heavily upon it. From this period, the difficulties which must
attend the erection of a habitation on this rock, appeared in a stronger point
of view than they had hitherto done. He, nevertheless, was resolved to
embrace every opportunity of forwarding this great object. In the year 1796,
he visited the operations of the Kilwarlin light-house, then erecting on the
South Rock, a sunken reef, situate three miles off the coast of Downshire in
Ireland, as a work resembling that which was in contemplation for the Bell
Rock.
The disastrous shipwrecks which occasionally
His pillar-formed
Light-house.
happened at the entrance of the Friths of Forth and Tay,
deeply impressed every one conversant in nautical

affairs, with the most convincing proofs of the necessity for some
distinguishing mark being erected upon the Bell Rock. As yet, the writer
had not landed upon the rock; though he had begun to prepare a model of a
pillar-formed light-house, to be supported upon six columns of cast-iron,
under the impression that this description of building was alone suitable to
its situation. The general features of this model may be understood, by
examining Plate VII., which represents the author’s original designs for the
Bell Rock Light-house.
In the summer of the year 1800, this model was presented to the Light-
house Board, when an official application was made to the Commissioners
of his Majesty’s Customs, for the use of the Osnaburgh cutter, then lying in
the harbour of Elie, on the coast of Fife, to carry the writer to the Bell Rock,
that, by landing there, he might be enabled to judge of the applicability of
his pillar-formed design to the situation of the rock. Upon reaching Elie, the
Osnaburgh was found to be under repair, and could not possibly go to sea
for several days, by which time the spring-tides would be over. On
consulting with the commander, as to the most advisable course to be
followed, in order to avoid losing these tides, it was resolved to go to St
Andrew’s in quest of a boat; but being there also disappointed, the journey
was continued along the coast to West Haven, on the northern side of the
Firth of Tay, where a large boat was procured, and manned with fishermen
who were in the habit of visiting the rock to search for articles of
shipwreck.
On this first visit to the Bell Rock, the writer was
His first visit to the
Bell Rock, with Mr
accompanied by his friend Mr James Haldane,
Haldane, architect. architect, formerly principal assistant to the late
eminent Mr John Baxter. The crew being unwilling to
risk their boat into any of the creeks in the rock, very properly observing
that the lives of all depended upon her safety, and as we could only remain
upon the rock for two or three hours at most, we landed upon a shelving
part on the south side of the rock, at the spot marked “First Landing” on
Plate VI. Having been extremely fortunate both as to the state of the
weather and tides, an opportunity was afforded of making a sketch of the
rock at low water: meantime, the boatmen were busily employed in
searching all the holes and crevices in quest of articles of shipwreck, and by
the time that the tide overflowed the rock, they had collected upwards of 2

cwt. of old metal, consisting of such things as are used on shipboard. A few
of these were kept by the writer, such as a hinge and lock of a door, a ship’s
marking-iron, a piece of a ship’s coboose (or kambuis, cover of the
cooking-place), a soldier’s bayonet, a canon ball, several pieces of money, a
shoe-buckle, &c.; while the heavier and more bulky articles, as a piece of a
kedge-anchor, cabin-stove, crowbars, &c. were left with the crew, who
were, however, disposed to make very light of their booty, when it was
urged in extenuation of an extravagant demand which they made for the
boat’s freight, being at the rate of one guinea per man, and one guinea for
the use of the boat, besides expences, amounting altogether to about eleven
guineas.
The immediate result of this visit on the mind of the
He concludes that a writer and of Mr Haldane, was a firm conviction of the
building of stone is
practicability of erecting a building of stone upon the
most suitable for the
Bell Rock. Bell Rock; and from that moment the idea of a pillar-
formed light-house was rejected, as unsuitable to the
situation. This opinion was chiefly founded upon the area or extent of the
part which dried, or was exposed to view in the spring-tides, being found to
measure about 280 by 300 feet, and consequently affording a sufficient
space for a foundation, and even a degree of shelter from the force of the
waves, for the lower courses of a building.
The depth at high-water upon the Bell Rock was much
Pillar-formed building
compared with one of
against the design of a building with pillars, as a vessel
stone. drawing 12 feet water, and loaded with 100 or even 200
tons, may come with full sail against any erection made
there. Were such a circumstance to happen to a pillar-formed building, and
a ship to get thus entangled among the openings of the under part of the
light-house, there is little doubt that the event would prove fatal to a
building of that construction, however strongly framed. On the contrary,
supposing a vessel to strike a building of stone, under these circumstances,
it is not at all likely, that she could have any effect upon a mass of matter
extending to 2000 or 3000 tons, so as to injure such a fabric.
Under these impressions, the writer, after his first visit
Author’s designs and
models of a stone-
to the Bell Rock, in the year 1800, made a variety of
building. drawings, and constructed new models for a building of
stone, shewing various methods of connecting the

stones, by dove-tailing them laterally, like those of the Eddystone light-
house, and also course to course into one another perpendicularly. Other
methods were likewise modelled, for connecting the whole building in a
more simple manner, by means of joggles, or square blocks of stone, and
also by dove-tailed bats of iron cased in lead, as delineated in the various
designs of Plate VII. These plans and models were duly submitted to the
Light-house Board, accompanied with estimates of the expence, amounting
to the maximum sum of L. 42,685, 8s.
Sir William Pulteney having taken an interest in
Mr Telford requested
forwarding a bill for this measure in Parliament in the
to visit the Bell Rock.
year 1803, gave Mr Thomas Telford, engineer,
instructions to inquire into the circumstances of the Bell Rock, in the course
of his journey to the Works of the Caledonian Canal. Mr Telford had
accordingly taken some preparatory steps for making a Design; and, with
this view, he had engaged Mr Murdoch Downie, author of several Marine
Surveys, to accompany him to the Bell Rock. But the weather proved
unfavourable at the time for effecting a landing upon the rock; and, the bill
then in progress having been withdrawn before another opportunity
occurred, Mr Telford’s visit was not resumed.
Mr Downie, however, who had previously been upon
Mr Downie’s pillar-
formed Light-house
the rock, when making his Nautical Survey of the
of Stone. Eastern Coast of Scotland, prepared a drawing and an
estimate of the expence of erecting a light-house upon
it, which he stated at about L. 29,000. His light-house was to have consisted
of eight columns of stone, of an elliptical or egg form, as he expressed it,
ranged round a common centre, having the longer axis and smaller end
towards a circular column in the centre of the plan. These columns were to
support a circular building of stone for the habitation of the light-keepers
and the site of the light room. By this plan it was meant to give less
resistance to the waves. But it did not seem to be well adapted for the
situation, as it wanted that solidity and unity of parts which are so essential
to the stability of a building upon a sunken rock. Such a work would have
been of difficult execution. It would have required similar apparatus with
the solid masonry for its construction, and while in progress, it would have
been in greater danger of being destroyed than a solid fabric. There seemed,
therefore, upon the whole, to be but two opinions as to the proper

description of a light-house for this situation, viz. either that it should be
constructed of iron, as was maintained by Captain Brodie, or of solid
masonry, as proposed by the writer.

Bill by Lord Advocate Hope.

The erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock had
Bell Rock Light-
house proposed at a
been occasionally alluded to at the Convention of the
Meeting of the Royal Royal Burghs of Scotland, which meets annually at
Burghs. Edinburgh; and, in consequence of recent losses on that
reef, the Convention of 1802 was moved, by Provost
Duncan of Arbroath, to take this subject under its serious consideration. It
was accordingly resolved, That the Lord Advocate Hope, one of the
Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, and Member of Parliament
for the City of Edinburgh, should be requested to use his influence in
forwarding this desirable object. His Lordship being present, readily
engaged to undertake the measure, and declared that he would not allow it
to rest until something satisfactory should be done.
The Commissioners of the Light-houses having afterwards furnished the
particulars, the heads of a bill were arranged, which, in the session of 1803,
was brought forward by his Lordship and the late Sir William Pulteney, who
took a great interest in the Scotch business before the House of Commons.
This bill had for its object to empower the Commissioners to borrow
L. 30,000, and to exact the Northern Light-duty of 1½d. per ton upon
British shipping, and 3d. per ton upon Foreigners, from all vessels bound to
or from any port on the eastern coast of Great Britain, that should cross the
latitude of the Bell Rock.
This bill passed the House of Commons in the session
Bill lost in the House
of Lords.
of 1803; but having met with opposition from the
corporation of the City of London, as including too
great a range of coast in the collection of the duties, such amendments and
alterations were proposed in the House of Lords, as rendered it necessary
for the Lord Advocate to withdraw the bill.
The expectations of nautical and commercial men were severely
disappointed by the loss of this bill, which occasioned a delay of several

years in the prosecution of the object. It was obvious,
Works proposed of that, without considerable funds at command, it was
less expence than a
stone building. impossible to undertake a work of such magnitude. The
annual funds of the Light-house Board at this period
amounted only to about L. 4000, and the maintenance of the light-houses
already erected was equal to one-half of this sum, which would leave a
surplus fund of about L. 2000 per annum. But, as the Commissioners found
it to be their duty to go on with their improvements on the other parts of the
coast, without confining their attention to one object, however important, it
was impossible that this great work could be undertaken for a series of
years, without the direct aid of the Government, or an extension of the
Light-house duties, on the security of which money might be borrowed. In
consequence of the loss of this bill, the dangers of the Bell Rock now
became very generally the topic of conversation; and various schemes were
again suggested for constructing economical and temporary buildings to
remedy the evil.
In a work of so much apparent difficulty, it was not
Difficulty of
determining among
easy for the Light-house Board to determine what was
these proposals. the most advisable design. The pillar-formed building
was supported by many arguments. It would have been
executed in a very short period, and would not, perhaps, have cost one-sixth
part of the expence of a building of stone. A light-house, supported upon
wooden pillars, had also stood for many years, and still remains, upon the
Smalls Rocks, off St David’s-Head, in Pembrokeshire, although the sea, in
high tides, and stormy weather, occasionally breaks over the building. But a
fabric of stone, for such a situation as the Bell Rock, was evidently
preferable, and the examples of the Tour de Corduan, the Eddystone, and
the Kilwarlin light-houses, already noticed, were all in favour of it.
Amidst a diversity of opinion as to the practicability of
Mr Rennie consulted
and agrees with the
the undertaking, and especially as to the description of
Author in the building, whether it should be of cast-iron or stone,
recommending a and in the form of pillars or solid, the Commissioners
building of stone.
ultimately determined upon submitting the several
views of the subject to Mr John Rennie, engineer. In the
year 1804, Mr Rennie and the writer accompanied Mr Hamilton, Sheriff of
Lanarkshire, one of the Commissioners, and who had turned much of his

attention to the subject, on a visit to the Bell Rock. They made a favourable
landing; and Mr Rennie had only been a short time upon the rock, when he
gave his decided opinion upon the practicability of the proposed erection of
stone. He had examined the author’s designs and models, and afterwards
made a Report, in which he coincided with him in recommending to the
Board the adoption of a building of stone, on the principles of the
Eddystone Light-house. Sanctioned with such authority, the Commissioners
were finally confirmed in the resolution, that the Bell Rock Light-house
should be a tower of masonry similar to that of the Eddystone.
Hitherto the general opinion throughout the country,
The Light-house
Board takes the sense
and especially at all the sea-ports, had been anxiously
of the Mercantile expressed for the erection of a light-house of some kind
Interest in this on the Bell Rock. But before going a second time to
measure.
Parliament with this measure, the Commissioners
thought it advisable to take the sense of the mercantile
interest at the ports more immediately connected with the navigation of the
Firth of Forth, such as Leith, Aberdeen, Dundee, Montrose, Arbroath, and
Berwick-upon-Tweed, as to the utility of the light-house, and the propriety
of obtaining an act of Parliament, to empower them to levy duties for the
erection and maintenance of the proposed building. A number of Reports
were accordingly received, all approving of the measure; but one of these
only need be inserted, from the Corporation of Traders in Leith, as it may
be considered as conveying the sentiments of all the others.
Report of the Committee appointed by the Incorporation of the
Report of the Traders Traders in Leith, relative to the expediency of erecting a Light-house
of Leith. on the Cape or Bell Rock.
“The Committee, justly sensible of the great importance of the object
referred to their consideration, have endeavoured to inform themselves, more especially on
those points to which their attention is particularly called by the letter of the
Commissioners.
“The result of these inquiries, as far as regards the number of vessels known, from the
safety of the crews, to have been wrecked upon the Bell Rock, within these last ten years,
amount to four, viz. two smacks trading between London and Banff, one brig from
Holland, and a sloop from Hamburgh.
“These losses, although the vessels were all valuable, may at first view appear
comparatively small, but to your Committee, they serve as a powerful evidence, in support
of the opinion given by all maritime people, of the fatal position and nature of this rock,
where, from the tremendous sea which even a moderate gale occasions, total destruction is
almost the inevitable consequence of any vessel striking upon it.

“Situate off the openings of the two Friths of Tay and Forth, the Bell Rock stands a
frightful bar, to deter vessels making the land from attempting it in the night-time, when
they require most to seek its shelter; and, if unhappily overtaken with a gale at SE., when
near the latitude of this rock, the alternative, dangerous as it must appear, of stretching to
the northward, along a scarce less frightful coast, to gain the Murray Firth , is frequently, in
such perilous cases, had recourse to.
“In the beginning of 1800, fifty or sixty vessels were cast away; and, from the
circumstances of most of them being bound south of the Forth, but driven towards it by the
violence of the storm, there can be no reason to doubt, that, had it been possible for these
vessels to have attempted with safety the shelter of the Firth of Forth, many lives and much
property would by this means have been preserved.
“The dread, however, of the Bell Rock, induced them on that occasion to prefer hauling to
the northward, and encountering a sea and tide surpassed in few places of the globe. This
fatal apprehension was followed by the disastrous consequences already mentioned.
“The Committee have, indeed, no hesitation in giving it as their opinion, that the greater
part of the losses which occur, even from the Coquet Island, as far as the Murray Firth ,
arise from vessels either actually striking upon, or from an over-solicitude to keep at a
distance from, this fatal rock. To the latter cause, there is great reason to believe, from
many concurrent circumstances attending her loss, and from parts of her wreck being
washed ashore near Buchanness, his Majesty’s ship York, of 64 guns, fell a sacrifice, with
all her crew. Indeed, if the number of vessels is calculated, which, within these last ten
years, have been cast away within the above-mentioned extent of coast, they will be found
to amount to more than one hundred.
“That the erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock would obviate many of these
dangers is sufficiently evident, and merchants, as well as seafaring men, trading to the east
coast of Scotland, as well as to the north of England, are alike interested in the
accomplishment of this desirable object.
“In a national point of view, the advantages that would result from it are incalculable; but
none more forcible need be adduced, than that of its serving as the direct means of
preservation to the invaluable lives of numerous British seamen.
“All these considerations induce your Committee to give this measure their full
approbation; and that such a necessary object has not been sooner attained, must rather
have proceeded from the supposed difficulty of the execution, than any hesitation as to the
expediency of it.
“Your Committee, in reply to that part of the letter of the Commissioners, in which the
Traffickers of Leith are required to signify, in the event of their concurrence in the
measure, whether they will support the application of the Commissioners by petition to
Parliament, have again to state, that giving, as they do, their full approbation to the
expediency of erecting a light-house on the Bell Rock, they can have no hesitation in
joining in any petition to Parliament to that effect. But the funds of this Incorporation being
appropriated to specific purposes, no pecuniary aid can be afforded by them as a Society.
“To so great a national benefit as this will certainly prove, they will contribute, by willingly
submitting to a tax on all shipping passing the Bell Rock, provided the duty so imposed
does not exceed that laid on for any light in England, whose situation may bear
resemblance to that to be erected upon the Bell Rock.

“The Trinity-House of Leith, to whom, the Committee is informed, the Commissioners
have likewise applied, must be supposed better qualified to give detailed information upon
the whole of this subject than your Committee; and the more especially, as one among their
number has, for a period exceeding twenty years, made the dangers of the Bell Rock, and
the means to be applied to avoid or lessen them, his peculiar study. Captain Joseph Brodie
has, at great risk, and certainly at no little expence, and without any expectation of
recompence, beyond that of having served his country, frequently visited the Bell Rock,
and at one time succeeded in erecting a Beacon upon it, which withstood the fury of the sea
for several months.
“The Committee, therefore, consider him well qualified to give the Commissioners
information on the subject; and the various models of light-houses applicable to this rock,
which, with much labour and ingenuity, he has invented, will be found highly valuable,
whenever the execution of the business shall come to be taken into final consideration.—
(Signed) James Searth, Master; Wm. Mowbray, Assist.; Wm. Dougal, Assist.; Arch.
Geddes, James Pillans junior.”

Report of the The dangerous situation of the Bell Rock, and the
Merchants of losses which have either occurred upon, or in
Berwick. consequence of it, were also strongly expressed in all
the other documents communicated to the Light-house
Board; and we may further form a judgment of the extent of the serious
consequences of this rock to the shipping on the coast, by what was stated
in the communication from Berwick-upon-Tweed. It was therein mentioned,
that two vessels had struck upon this rock in one night; and that other two,
which had been built at Berwick, and sold to a Shipping Company at Banff,
were afterwards lost upon the same reef. It also deserves notice, that
Captain Allardice, who commanded one of those vessels, had the
misfortune, in the course of his profession, to have been twice wrecked
upon the Bell Rock.
These statements, furnished upon unquestionable
Resolution of the
Light-house Board to
authority, of the losses occasioned by the Bell Rock,
apply again to satisfied the Commissioners of the propriety of
Parliament. persisting in their original plan of obtaining an act of
Parliament and a loan for this special purpose. After
various meetings of the Board, for adjusting the heads of a bill, the measure
was finally resolved upon at a meeting, held on the 19th February 1806, at
which the following members were present: Mr James Clerk, Sheriff-
Depute of Edinburghshire, Mr Robert Hamilton, Sheriff-Depute of
Lanarkshire, Mr William Rae, Sheriff-Depute of Orkney and Shetland, Mr
James Trail, Sheriff-depute of Caithness, Mr John Connell, Sheriff-Depute

of Renfrewshire, Mr Edward M’Cormick, Sheriff-Depute of Ayrshire, and
Mr David Monypenny, Sheriff-Depute of Fife.
This meeting having also taken into consideration a memorial, prepared by
Mr Hamilton, pointing out the importance and urgency of the measure,
ordered it to be printed; and requested him to proceed to London, to submit
the memorial, and the documents on which it was founded, to the
consideration of His Majesty’s Ministers, and other Members of Parliament.
Mr Hamilton went to London in the month of April
Mr Hamilton and the
Author go to London.
1806, when the author also attended, with his plans and
estimates, to prove the preamble of the bill. Mr
Hamilton having transmitted the memorial to the heads of the departments
of the Treasury, the Admiralty, and the Board of Trade, requested an
audience from them on the subject. He had a meeting with the Board of
Trade, and urged the proposition for a loan, or advance from Government,
of L. 25,000, on the security of the duties which the proposed light-house
would produce. It was, however, recommended that application should also
be made to the other two Boards. Some time thereafter, a conference on the
matter was held with Lord Howick, then at the head of the Admiralty, and
Admiral Markham,—when the plans of the projected building were shewn
to them,—it was stated that all that was wanting to enable the work to be
proceeded with, was the advance from Government,—and the importance
of the proposed light-house was at this interview pointed out, not only as to
trade, but as a guide and protection for the Navy while cruising in the
German Ocean. But their Lordships still considered the undertaking chiefly
as of a local nature, and comparatively of little benefit to the Navy. Not
discouraged, however, by this unsuccessful application, Mr Hamilton soon
after obtained an audience of Lord Grenville, First Commissioner of the
Treasury, who examined the charts, plans, elevations and sections of the
projected building with much attention,—declared himself fully convinced
of the importance and expediency of the measure,—and promised that the
loan by Government, and every other expedient for the advancement of the
design, should have his support. The patronage of the First Minister of State
having been thus obtained, Mr Hamilton returned to his public duties in
Scotland, leaving the farther proceedings in the application to the charge of
the writer, with the assistance of Mr Longlands, solicitor for the Light-
house Board in London.

Bill by Lord Advocate Erskine.

The Hon. Henry Erskine, Lord Advocate of Scotland,
The Loan from
Government becomes
took charge of the Bill in Parliament. But,
doubtful. notwithstanding his Lordship’s attention to the
business, so much time was lost in furnishing various
statements, relative to the probable amount of the new duties to be levied,
and the security to be given for repayment of the loan, that little progress
was made with the bill, till the middle of the month of June. By this time,
the prospect of the loan became so doubtful, that it was thought advisable
by some friends to the measure to take the bill without it. But the
Commissioners, after considering the tendency of such a bill, in tying up
their funds for an indefinite period for one object, and thus preventing the
extension of the benefit of additional light-houses to other parts of the coast,
were of opinion, that, unless the loan was granted, they must withdraw their
petition for the bill, and allow the business to lie over till the duties were in
such a condition as to enable the work to be undertaken. The author was
therefore directed to consider himself as at liberty to leave London, if it
should appear that the loan could not be obtained.
Lord Auckland, President of the Board of Trade, was
Board of Trade
favourable to the
favourable to the proposal of the loan; and Sir Joseph
Loan. Banks, the Vice-President, having entered warmly into
the measure, and at a meeting of the 7th June, urged its
necessity so strongly, that the Board desired a Memorial to be presented on
the following points:—Of the coast to be subjected to the Duty of the
Northern Lights, by the erection of the Bell Rock light-house;—of the trade
and mercantile interest to pay this additional duty;—of the security to be
given to Government for the repayment of the loan of L. 25,000;—and of
the assurance to be given, that this sum, together with the surplus funds in
the possession of the Commissioners, would accomplish a building of so
much hazard.
The following Memorial was accordingly presented.
“To the Right Hon. the Lords of the Committee of Council, relating to Trade,—The
Humble Memorial of the Commissioners, for erecting Light-Houses on the Northern parts
of Great Britain;
Sheweth,

“That the memorialists have taken the liberty of stating, in a
Memorial to the former Memorial hereunto annexed, the reasons that have
Board of Trade. induced them to apply to the Lords Commissioners of his
Majesty’s Treasury, for their support to an application to
Parliament, for the loan of so much money as will enable them to build a light-house upon
the Cape or Bell Rock,—an object of much consequence to the navigation of the North
Sea, from the many fatal shipwrecks it has occasioned. The Memorialists have been much
pressed and solicited by the commercial interest of the country, to get this accomplished;
and by opening the Firth of Forth as a place of safety, by the erection of this light-house,
the navigation of the northern coasts of the kingdom will be greatly facilitated.
“It now appears, by the accompanying Custom-House returns, on an average of three
years, that the duties which would be received for a light-house on the Bell Rock would
amount to L. 2617:3:9½; and by the accounts of the Commissioners of Northern Lights,
annually laid before Parliament, it will be seen, that the memorialists have of annual
surplus duties L. 1350, amounting together to L. 3967, which, it is thought, will be
considered a sufficient security for the interest of the sum that may be advanced by the
public.
“On erecting a light-house on the Bell Rock, the Commissioners, by the existing acts,
would be empowered to levy the above duties of L. 2617, 3s. 9½d.; and it appears by the
representations from the ports more immediately interested, that they highly approve of the
measure.
“The memorialists have received several estimates of the expence of erecting a light-house
upon the Bell Rock. They have more particularly had recourse to the professional abilities
and advice of Mr Rennie and Mr Stevenson, Civil Engineers, from whose reports they have
reason to believe that the sum will not exceed L. 48,000. The memorialists have already in
the 3 per cent. consols L. 28,000 of surplus duties, (about L. 16,800). If the public,
therefore, are induced to advance L. 25,000 by instalments in the course of three years,
making together about L. 41,800, the memorialists presume, that, with the application of
the whole surplus duties for a time, this sum will be perfectly sufficient to enable them to
complete a work so long recommended, and so anxiously desired.” (For the statements
above referred to, see Appendix, No. III.)

Sir Joseph Banks Observations by the several members of the Board of
makes further Trade having been made upon this memorial, it was
exertions for the more especially referred to Sir Joseph Banks, to give an
Loan.
opinion, as having himself sailed along that coast. Sir
Joseph, knowing from experience the horrors of sunken rocks, supported
the proposition of the loan, not only as one of expediency, but of necessity
and humanity to the seafaring people of a great portion of the kingdom, and
gave his most decided and hearty concurrence to the recommendation to the
Treasury. After describing the extensive advantages to be derived by
shipping from the establishment of a light-house upon the Bell Rock, he
pointedly alluded to the probable loss of the York Man-of-war upon it; and
observed, that the security and facility to be derived to the extensive
shipping of this coast, should not be overlooked for the advance of so small

a sum as L. 25,000. After the matter had been deliberated on for some time
at the Board, Lord Auckland intimated to Mr Longlands, and the author,
that a report would be made to the Treasury.
This was communicated to the Lord Advocate, who, at
Bill Read a first time
in the House of
an early day, moved for leave to bring in a bill, “To
Commons. enable the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses
to levy certain duties upon the shipping, and also to
enable the Lords of His Majesty’s Treasury to grant a loan of L. 25,000
from the 3 per cent. consolidated fund for the erection of a light-house upon
a certain dangerous sunken reef, called the Bell Rock, lying at the distance
of twelve miles from the nearest land, at the entrance of the Friths of Forth
and Tay, upon the eastern coast of Scotland.” His Lordship had no sooner
made the motion, than Lord Henry Petty, then Chancellor of the Exchequer,
stated, that he could not answer for the support which this bill might
ultimately meet with from his Majesty’s Ministers;—that he spoke not from
his own knowledge of the subject, but merely from the views of the First
Lord of the Admiralty, who had expressed his doubts as to the propriety of
the loan in the then low state of his Majesty’s Exchequer, and the great
demands which were made upon the country; but that he did not mean to
oppose the present motion, only, under these circumstances, he thought it
proper to state this much, in absence of the noble Lord alluded to. Leave
having been given to bring in the bill, it was accordingly read a first time.
On the second reading of the bill, the Lord Advocate
Second Reading of
the Bill.
introduced the business with his usual display of
eloquence, pointing out, in forcible language, the
horrors of a sunken rock so situate as the Bell Rock; and concluded, by
observing, that, as there could be but one opinion as to the important object
of this bill, he hoped, through the exertions of the Light-house Board, to
which he had the honour to belong, and of other public functionaries,
appointed for similar purposes, on other parts of the coast, the day would
come, when every sunken rock and dangerous shoal, of similar importance
to navigation, would be distinctly pointed out to the mariner. The only reply
made was by Mr Spencer Perceval, who remarked, that he had no intention
to oppose the present measure, the importance of which he would not call in
question, but he must agree with those who thought that this was not a
favourable time for granting loans of public money. The bill was then read a

second time. In its progress through the House of Commons, it was
detained, from various causes, beyond the regular time. The Lord Advocate
had also unfortunately been taken ill; but in his absence, Sir John Sinclair
attended to the bill in the Committee, of which he was chairman, and
brought up the following Report:

Report of the Committee of the House of Commons.

“The Committee, to whom was referred the Petition of the
Report of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, and to report the
Committee. matter to the House, as it shall appear to them,
“Proceeded to examine Mr Robert Stevenson, Civil Engineer,
who, in his capacity of engineer for the Northern Light-houses,
Report brought up by
has erected six light-houses in the northern parts of the
Sir John Sinclair.
kingdom; and has made the erection of a light-house on the
Cape or Bell Rock, more particularly his study,—especially,
since the loss of about 70 sail of vessels, in a storm which happened upon the coast in the
month of December 1799, by which numerous ships were driven from their course along
the shore, and from their moorings in Yarmouth Roads, and other places of anchorage,
southward of the Firth of Forth, and wrecked upon the eastern coast of Scotland, as
referred to in the report made to this House, in the month of July 1803; the particulars of
which he also confirms: That the Bell Rock is most dangerously situate, lying in a track
which is annually navigated by no less than about 700,000 tons of shipping, besides his
Majesty’s ships of war, and revenue cutters: That its place is not easily ascertained, even by
persons well acquainted with the coast, being covered by the sea about half flood, and the
land-marks, by which its position is ascertained, being from 12 to 20 miles distant from the
site of danger.
“That from the inquiries he made at the time the York Man-of-war was lost, and pieces of
her wreck having drifted ashore upon the opposite and neighbouring coast; and from an
attentive consideration of the circumstances which attend the wreck of ships of such
dimensions, he thinks it probable that the York must have struck upon the Bell Rock,
drifted off, and afterwards sunk in deep water: That he is well acquainted with the situation
of the Bell Rock, the yacht belonging to the light-house service, having, on one occasion,
been anchored near it for five days, when he had an opportunity of landing upon it every
tide: That he has visited most of the light-houses on the coast of England, Wales and
Ireland, particularly those of the Eddystone, the Smalls, and the Kilwarlin or South Rock,
which are built in situations somewhat similar to the Bell Rock: That at high-water, there is
a greater depth on the Bell Rock than on any of these, by several feet: and he is therefore
fully of opinion, that a building of stone, upon the principles of the Eddystone light-house,
is alone suitable to the peculiar circumstances which attend this rock, and has reported his
opinion accordingly to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses as far back as the
year 1800; and having given the subject all the attention in his power, he has estimated the
expence of erecting a building of stone upon it at the sum of L. 42,685, 8s.
“Your Committee likewise examined Mr John Rennie, civil-engineer, who, since the report
made to this House in 1803, has visited the Bell Rock, who confirms the particulars in said
report, and entertains no doubt of the practicability of erecting a light-house on that rock, is

decidedly of opinion that a stone light-house will be the most durable and effectual, and
indeed the only kind of building that is suited to this situation: That he has computed the
expence of such a building, and, after making every allowance for contingencies, from his
own experience of works in the sea, it appears to him that the estimate or expence will
amount to L. 41,843, 15s.
“It appears further to your Committee, from the accounts presented to this House by the
Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, in the years 1803, 1804, and 1805, that, on
an average of these years, the surplus duties arising from the light-houses already erected
by that Board, is L. 512:18:8. But your Committee find, that the average of general
expenditure for these years has been higher than usual, owing to the erection of additional
light-houses, viz. one on the Island of Inchkeith, in the Firth of Forth, and a revolving light
upon the Start-Point of Sanday, one of the Orkney Islands, on which there was expended,
during these years, about L. 4800, causing an annual extra charge of L. 1600 upon the
duties collected in that period.
“That, agreeably to the act of the 26th of the King, the said Commissioners of the Northern
Light-houses have invested in the public Funds L. 28,000, affording dividends to the
annual amount of L. 840.
“That the duties that would be collected for the Bell Rock light, as appears by the returns
from the customs presented to this House, and the resolution they have come to, would
amount to about L. 2617: 3: 9 annually.
“That if the sum of L. 25,000 was to be advanced, by way of loan, from the consolidated
fund, this, with the L. 28,000 now invested in the 3 per cent. Consolidated Annuities,
would enable the Commissioners to erect the proposed light-house, and that there would
remain a sufficient fund for the payment of interest of the loan from the surplus duties, as
well as for the repayment of the principal, in a reasonable time.”

Bill meets with some The bill passed through the Committee of the
Commons without any impediment, but, on the third
opposition at the third
reading. reading, it met with some opposition in the House, upon
new and unexpected grounds. One of the members for
Liverpool opposed the loan, on the ground that that Port maintained its own
sea-lights, and that the trade of the Firth of Forth ought also to support its
lights. But this objection was withdrawn, upon explaining the position of
the Bell Rock relatively to the Firth of Forth, and the difficulty and expence
of the proposed building, and shewing that the collection of its Light-duties
were proportionally as much confined to the Firth of Forth, though
extending between Berwick to the south, and Peterhead to the north, as the
more limited sphere of the Liverpool lights were to the ports and havens in
the Mersey. This difficulty was no sooner got over, than the bill was likely
to have met with another check, from a clause which had been introduced,
exempting this work from the duty on stone carried coastwise, which, it was
calculated, would have amounted to between L. 2000 and L. 3000. This

clause was withdrawn, by the advice of Mr Vansittart, Secretary to the
Treasury, as being improper to appear in the shape of an enactment.
The bill then went through the third reading, and passed
Is Passed, and
receives the Royal
the House Commons on the 16th of July. It was
Assent. afterwards brought up to the House of Lords, where it
went through the Committee, and the several readings;
and having received the Royal Assent, became an act of the Legislature.
The writer immediately returned to Scotland, with feelings of the greatest
satisfaction, on the accomplishment of a measure which, in its tendency,
was so eminently calculated to meet the wishes of the mercantile interest of
the country. But, along with these sensations, there was also a degree of
responsibility, and a crowd of difficulties, which still presented themselves,
in the execution of a work of so peculiar a nature. Hitherto this undertaking
had been viewed only at a distance, clogged with many previous obstacles,
which, by the passing of the bill, were removed; and the whole measure
now pressed fully upon his mind.

CHAPTER III.
PHAROS FLOATING LIGHT-SHIP.—COMMENCEMENT OF THE OPERATIONS ON
THE BELL-ROCK.—ERECTION OF THE BEACON-HOUSE, AND FURTHER
PROGRESS OF THE LIGHT-HOUSE WORKS IN 1807.

The Act of Parliament, by which the Commissioners of
Floating-Light.
the Northern Light-houses were empowered to
undertake the works at the Bell Rock, having only received the Royal
Assent late in the month of July 1806, there was not sufficient time for
making the necessary preparations for their commencement that season. But
the writer, on his return from London, received instructions from the Board
to have such preliminary steps in view, as would enable him to begin the
operations early in the summer of 1807. This being arranged, he sailed in
the month of August, on his annual voyage, for the inspection of the
Northern Light-houses.
The bill for the Bell Rock Light-house was drawn up,
Act provides for a
Floating-Light and
under a strong impression of the uncertainty which
Beacon. must attend the whole of the works at the rock, and
doubts were accordingly entertained as to the estimated
expence being adequate to the accomplishment of the undertaking. A clause
had, therefore, been introduced, authorising the collection of the light-house
duties of one penny halfpenny per register ton from British vessels, and
threepence per ton from foreigners, “immediately upon mooring or
anchoring a ship or vessel, and exhibiting a floating or other light, at or near
the Bell Rock,” and “half the amount of the said duties respectively,” on the
erection of “a proper beacon or distinguishing mark or object on the said
Bell Rock.” The measures first in order were, consequently, to fit out and
moor a floating-light and to erect a beacon on the Bell Rock, that shipping
might derive immediate advantage from them, while the light-house was in
progress; and also that the funds of the Board might, as early as possible,
have the benefit of the additional duties. We therefore proceed to give an
account of the outfit and mooring of this vessel, and of the erection of the
beacon-house, without attending strictly to the chronological order of the
works.

The writer had frequent communications with the late Captain Huddart, of
the Trinity-House of London, and other nautical men, both as to the form of
a vessel, and the moorings proper for a situation like the Bell Rock: here the
depth of water could not be less than from seventeen to nineteen fathoms at
the lowest tide, whereas, on the English coast, the depth where floating
lights are, in general, moored, does not exceed seven or eight fathoms, and
their moorings, consequently, much more easily managed. The writer had
also visited the floating light of the Nore, at the entrance of the river
Thames; and he was induced, upon the whole, to conclude, that a vessel
built after the manner and construction of the Dutch fishing-doggers, would
be the most suitable for riding at anchor in the open sea, and that her
moorings should consist partly of an iron chain, and partly of a hempen
cable.

Pharos Floating Light-ship.

In the year 1806, a great number of vessels were taken
Fishing Dogger
purchased, and named
by our cruizers, upon the coasts of Holland, Denmark,
The Pharos. and Norway, many of which were carried into Leith to
be sold. One of these, a Prussian, which happened to be
captured while fishing on the Dogger Bank, was purchased for the Bell
Rock service. This vessel was of a flat construction, rounded off both at the
stem and stern, agreeably to the ordinary make of these doggers. She was
called the Tonge Gerrit, but was afterwards named the Pharos, in allusion to
the celebrated Pharos of Alexandria. She measured 67 feet in length, and 16
feet in breadth, upon deck, 8 feet depth of hold, and was 82 tons register. It
was, however, only the form of her hull that fitted her for our purpose; her
rigging and whole equipment having to undergo a complete alteration, for
the light-house service.
The establishing of a floating-light being quite new
Fitted out under the
direction of the
upon the coast of Scotland, and that every thing
Trinity-House, Leith.connected with this vessel might be done upon the best
principles, the writer procured the assistance of Mr
Joseph Webb, an experienced pilot of Yarmouth, who had attended the
fitting up of one of the floating lights stationed off that coast, and who had
been recommended by the Trinity Board of London as a person of skill, for

instructing the master of the vessel in all the details of the service. Several
of the Captains of the Trinity-House of Leith also obligingly formed
themselves into a committee, and from time to time assisted in giving
directions as to the necessary repairs and outfit of the vessel.
Agreeably to this arrangement, the Prussian dogger was put into one of the
graving docks of Leith, in the month of March 1807, and underwent a
complete examination, when it was found that she required a few new
timbers in her bottom; and that to strengthen her upper works, several new
beams and additional knees were necessary. Her bottom had to be new
trenailed and caulked, and then sheathed with fir plank. Her ceiling, or
interior lining, was also caulked, and made water-tight, in case of accident
to the outer plank, in the event of her breaking adrift, and getting upon the
Bell Rock. Her deck-plank and upper works were also entirely renewed;
and from stem to stern, under deck, her accommodations were laid out
anew. She was furnished with three masts, of a length calculated to enable
her to ride with as little incumbrance as possible in a storm; the main-mast
being only thirty-five feet above the deck, while the fore and mizen masts
were each twenty-five feet. The rigging was also made of light cordage, and
she was provided with storm-sails, to be used in the event of her breaking
adrift in bad weather. By the time, therefore, that this vessel came from the
hands of the carpenters, very little of the old work remained, as nothing had
been omitted, which could, in any manner, add to her strength and
durability. She was fitted up with births for about thirty artificers, besides
her ordinary crew and officers, amounting to thirteen in number,
independently of her hold for oil and stores of various descriptions. In the
distribution of these, the fore-peak of the ship was allotted for the sailors;
the waist for the artificers; and galley appropriated to the cooking of the
victuals. Next to this, a large cabin was set off for the master, mate, and
principal light-keeper, and for the foremen of the works; while the after or
stern part of the ship formed a cabin for the use of the engineer.
The Pharos was furnished with a large copper lantern
Peculiar construction
of Lanterns.
for each mast, containing ten lamps, with small silver-
plated reflectors, ranged upon a chandelier, moveable at
pleasure, in a horizontal direction, for the conveniency of turning the lamps
to trim them and clean the reflectors. To make the vessel ride as easily as
possible, in a situation so exposed, the lanterns were made of a peculiar

construction, so as to screw together upon the masts, in two pieces,
longitudinally, as represented in Plate X., Figs. 1, 2, and 3. By these means,
the light could be seen in every direction, without the necessity of
suspending them in the usual manner from yards, or other weighty
apparatus, which tend not only to obscure the light, but also to make the
ship ride heavily in bad weather.
The moorings of the floating light consisted of a large
Construction of
Moorings.
mushroom anchor, of cast-iron, weighing about a ton
and a half, and made with a shank and head, resembling
in form, as nearly as may be, the vegetable from which it takes its name.
This anchor was made with a malleable iron shank, but latterly these
mushroom anchors were made wholly of cast-iron, as represented in Plate
X., Fig. 4. A chain of fifty fathoms in length, was attached to the anchor,
made of inch and half bars of iron, to which a hempen cable, of 14 inches in
circumference, and 120 fathoms in length, was connected, to be veered out
according to the state of the weather.
The Pharos being ready for sea, was, on the 9th of July,
Pharos is towed to the
Roads.
towed out of the harbour of Leith to the Roads, by the
Light-house Yacht, a cutter-rigged vessel attached to the
general service of the Northern Light-houses. The Yacht had the Pharos’
moorings on board, and was appointed to conduct her to the Bell Rock, and
lay them down. A curious enough circumstance took place, when the crew
of the floating-light was mustered, before leaving the harbour: two of the
seamen having taken alarm, at the destination of the ship, and the nature of
the service in which they were about to embark, suddenly turned about, and,
to the great surprise of their comrades, ran with the utmost precipitation
from the ship; to which they never again returned. Their places, however,
were supplied with others, without much inconvenience.
As the gentlemen of the Trinity-house of Leith, had all
Committee of the
Trinity-House go to
along taken a particular interest in the fitting out of the
the Bell Rock. floating-light, the Commissioners requested their
assistance in fixing upon the precise spot in which she
should be moored, for the direction of ships passing the Bell Rock. This
they readily complied with, suggesting, at the same time, that some of the
shipmasters of Arbroath, who were locally acquainted with the coast,
should also be invited to give their opinion and advice upon this point. A

few of the most experienced ship-masters and merchants of Arbroath were
accordingly invited to come off, when the floating light should make her
appearance in their neighbourhood. Matters being thus arranged, the writer
went on board of the Light-house Yacht, on the 10th, accompanied by Mr
Thomas Grindlay, master of the Trinity-house of Leith, with Mr John Hay,
and Mr Thomas Ritchie, Assistant-Masters.
At 8 a. m. the Pharos got under way in Leith Roads, and
Pharos sails for the
Bell Rock.
sailed for her station at the Bell Rock, under the
command of Mr George Sinclair, with a crew of twelve
in number. But as she sailed very heavily, the Yacht, with her party, did not
follow till noon, and about 2 p. m. came up with her, and took her in tow,
when it came to blow fresh breezes from SW. At 6, both vessels anchored
for the night on the eastern side of the Isle of May, as, by continuing our
course, we should have reached the Bell Rock under night, which was then
an object of terror to every seaman, and must have been attended with
danger, from its then undistinguished state.
While the Yacht and Pharos lay at anchor at the Isle of
Committee from
Arbroath join the
May, Mr David Balfour, Mr Andrew Duncan, Mr David
party. Cargill, Mr John Fleming, and Mr William Kidd, as a
Committee from Arbroath, having hired a vessel, left
that place in the morning, and hailed the Yacht, soon after she came to an
anchor, when some of their party joined us on board. As the
accommodations of the floating light were very ample, having only the
ship’s company on board, it was proposed that the whole party should meet
in her, and pass the night; but she rolled from side to side, in so
extraordinary a manner, that even the most sea-hardy of our number were
content to remain in a state of separation, rather than accept of the best birth
in the floating light. It was humorously observed of this vessel, “that she
was in some danger of making a round turn, and appearing with her keel
uppermost.” Another said, “she would roll out her masts;” and a third that
she would “even turn a halfpenny, if laid upon deck.” These, and such like
remarks, afforded much pleasantry on board of the Light-house Yacht, and
were suggested by the manner in which the Pharos rolled and yawed about,
when compared with the more easy motion of the other vessels. Being then
in light ballast trim to fit her for riding in bad weather, and very flat in the
bottom, the smallest wave set her in motion, when at anchor; and when

under way, she was little better, for she answered the helm with so much
difficulty, that a large decked Praam-boat, which she had in tow, was upset
in the passage from Leith. The writer is the more particular on this subject,
as the rolling motion of the floating-light became proverbial in the Light-
house service, and continued a source of much trouble and uneasiness to all
concerned, especially while she was used as a tender or store-ship for the
works.
Early in the morning of the 11th, the vessels left their
Pharos anchors in a
temporary birth.
anchorage at the Isle of May, and sailed for the Bell
Rock; but on reaching it, in the course of the forenoon,
the wind came to the eastward, accompanied with thick hazy weather, and
drizzling showers of rain, which so completely hid the distant landmarks
from view, that there was a necessity for ordering the Pharos to come to an
anchor with her best bower, on the smoothest spot of ground that could be
found, until a change of weather should admit of her being moored in a
proper manner. The weather afterwards became so foggy that every object
was lost sight of. The vessel which had brought our friends from Arbroath,
put into that harbour in the course of the evening, but the Light-house Yacht
kept at sea till the morning of the 12th, when it came to blow so fresh, that
she also went into that harbour, to wait a change of weather. On the 14th, it
improved, and the Yacht again sailed for the Bell Rock. On returning to the
floating light, we were happy to find that all was well on board, though Mr
Sinclair and Mr Webb, the pilot, complained that their anchorage was not
very good, as the bottom was hard, and the soundings or particles brought
up with the lead exhibited sharp coral and coarse gravel. After plying about
for some time with the Yacht, and sounding in every direction, a place was
at length fixed upon, about a mile and a half in a north-westerly direction
from the Bell Rock. The Yacht, as before noticed, having on board the
floating-light’s moorings, anchored on the spot most approved of for laying
them down.
Some arrangements having been made among the
In laying down her
Moorings, the whole
nautical gentlemen, as to the precise mode of going
chain goes overboard. about this operation, it was resolved to suspend the
mushroom anchor over the gunwale of the Yacht, and
before letting it into the water, to bring the greater part of the chain upon
deck, taking the precaution to make the further end of it fast to the lower

part of the mast, in the vessel’s hold, with a very strong and perfectly new
stopper, or piece of rope, measuring 7 inches in circumference. It was not
doubted but that this strong rope would have held the chain against any
strain that might have been brought upon it, in the process of letting down
the moorings. But the mushroom-anchor was no sooner let go from the
ship’s tackle, than the part of the chain which had been coiled upon deck
went overboard with such velocity, that it communicated a similar impetus
to the remainder of the chain in the hold, and the strain coming ultimately
upon the stopper, snapped through the several parts which fixed the end of
the chain to the mast, and, consequently, the whole went to the bottom with
the mushroom-anchor.
This untoward circumstance greatly disconcerted and
Moorings recovered
with great difficulty.
embarrassed the operations of mooring the floating-
light, as the chain had now to be fished or hooked at the
bottom, and raised from the depth of seventeen fathoms. After many trials,
we at length succeeded in hooking it with a grappling-iron, but as it
happened to lay hold only a few fathoms from the anchor, it required all the
purchase-blocks and tackle of the Yacht and Pharos to raise it: for the
weight, including the anchor, and so large a portion of the chain, could not
be less than about three tons. This operation was begun at mid-day, and,
although the united force of the crews of both ships was fully mustered, it
was not till two o’clock on the following morning,—being a period of
fourteen hours,—that the moorings were got up, and the Pharos brought
alongside of the Yacht, to receive the hempen cable, which was made fast to
the clinch, or great ring, connected with the chain moorings. The weather
was fortunately the most favourable that could have been desired for this
operation; and it is impossible for the writer to describe the anxiety and
exertions of all on board in getting this matter adjusted. Were he to judge by
his own feelings, he has no doubt that all on board would join in saying,
that it was one of the most painfully laborious days they had spent in the
course of their existence. For the space of about twenty hours, the crews of
both ships had never been off deck, and during twelve of these the hand-
spike, or the tackle, had not been five minutes together out of their hands, as
the refreshments which they got were served up at the windlass. The same
observations are literally applicable to the gentlemen of the quarter-deck,
who divided their attention severally to the different tackles and purchases
employed in raising the moorings.

The perplexing and tedious business of mooring the floating-light having
been happily got over, it was judged necessary to see how she would ride at
anchor for a time, before advertising the light to the public. The writer
accordingly returned on board in the course of three weeks, and examined
the moorings, which were found in good order. The anchorage ground was
also considered of a very proper description, in so far as observations, made
during a tract of favourable weather, had afforded the means of judging.
The vessel lay in an excellent position for the direction of shipping; and
being at this time only about a mile from the Bell Rock, her situation as a
hulk or store-ship for the light-house operations, was as favourable as the
relative position of the rock would admit. In this state of things, notice to
the following effect was given in the newspapers, for the direction of
mariners, and along with a copy of the notice, a chart or sketch of the
opposite coast was sent to the different Custom-houses.
“In virtue of an Act of Parliament of the 46th year of
Description of the
Floating-Light.
Geo. III. chap. 132. authorising the Commissioners of
the Northern Light-houses to erect a Light-house on the
Bell Rock, to place a floating light there, and to collect duties thereupon,—
notice is hereby given, that a vessel, fitted out for a floating-light, is now
moored off the Cape or Bell Rock, situate at the entrance of the Friths of
Forth and Tay, in North Lat. 56° 27´, and West Long. 2° 27´.
“The moorings of the floating-light consist of a mushroom anchor, and
chain, laid down in 17 fathoms water, the Bell Rock bearing, by compass,
E. S. E. distant one mile; the Red Head, N. by E. ¼ E. distant thirteen miles;
Fifeness, S. W. ¾ W. distant twelve miles; and the island of May S. W. ¾ S.
distant seventeen miles.
“A light from oil, with reflectors, will be exhibited upon the night of the
15th day of September 1807, and thereafter every night, from the going
away of day-light in the evening, till the return of day-light in the morning.
To distinguish this light from the double lights at the entrance of the Firth of
Tay, and on the Scares off the coast of Northumberland, and also from the
single light on the Island of May, three distinct lights will be shown from
the Bell Rock Floating-light, by a lantern hoisted to the top of each mast,
which will be visible from every point of the compass, at the distance of
from two to three leagues; the lanterns on the fore and mizen masts being
elevated 23 feet, and that on the main mast 31 feet, above the vessel’s deck;

the lights, when seen from either side of the ship, have the appearance of a
triangle, but if seen end-on, they appear as two lights, the one above the
other.
“This vessel is called the Pharos; she was formerly a fishing dogger, and
appears like a ship under jury masts; during the day-time, a blue flag, with a
light-house in the field, will be displayed from the main-mast; and, in thick
and foggy weather, a bell will be tolled, night and day, on board, with an
interval of about one minute.
“Although this vessel has been fitted out in the completest manner, and
every attention paid to mooring her properly, yet, as all floating-lights are
liable to break adrift in tempestuous weather, mariners are requested not to
neglect their landmarks, and to run with caution for the floating-light.
“The Pharos being also intended to answer the purpose of a store-ship,
while the light-house is building on the Bell Rock, it may be found
necessary, in the course of the works, to alter her present station, of which
due notice will be given.”

Commencement of the Operations on the Bell Rock.

As the commencement of works of masonry, requiring
1807, August. stones of large dimensions, is unavoidably tedious,
especially in the collecting of materials, we shall at
present only notice, that the Light-house Board having resolved on the use
partly of granite and partly of sandstone, for the erection at the Bell Rock,
measures were duly taken for procuring a supply of the former from the
quarry of Rubeslaw near Aberdeen, and of the latter from Mylnefield near
Dundee. But, instead of following out this part of our subject in its order,
we shall first proceed to a detail of the operations afloat, as they may be
termed, or of the works upon the rock itself, during the season of 1807,—
particularly of the erection of the principal beams of the beacon-house, or
temporary residence for the artificers on the rock, and of the progress made
in the preparation of the foundation or site of the main building.
We therefore observe, that a vessel had been built at
Sloop Smeaton.
Leith, in the course of the spring, expressly for the Bell

Rock service, to be employed as a tender for the floating-light, and as a
stone-lighter for the use of the work. This vessel was launched in the month
of June; she measured 40 tons register, was rigged as a sloop, and fitted in
all respects in the strongest manner, to adapt her as much as possible for the
perilous service in which she was to be employed. She was called The
Smeaton,—a name which the writer had great pleasure in suggesting, as a
mark of respect for the memory of the celebrated engineer of the Eddystone
Light-house, whose narrative was to become a kind of text-book for the
Bell Rock operations. The Smeaton was ready for sea in the beginning of
August, and reached Arbroath upon the 5th day of that month. Arbroath
being the most contiguous harbour to the Bell Rock, naturally pointed out
itself as the proper place for establishing the works, and preparing the
materials, before shipping them for the rock. The writer had, accordingly,
been here for some time, making the necessary preparations; and when the
Smeaton arrived, he found himself in a condition for commencing the
operations, in a systematic manner, upon the rock itself.
The floating-light rode in safety at her moorings, and
The Positions of the
Light-House and
had hitherto been supplied with necessaries by the
Beacon fixed on. Yacht belonging to the general service of the Light-
house Board. In this vessel, occasional trips had also
been made to the rock; but on the arrival of the Smeaton, the Yacht sailed
on a voyage, with stores for the use of the Northern Light-houses. In these
preliminary trips, the writer had fixed, in his own mind, upon the parts of
the rock most favourable for the position of the light-house, and on the
south-west of it, he chose the site of the beacon-house, that it might be
sheltered, in some measure, from the breach of the north-east sea; and by
placing them contiguous, or about twenty-five feet apart, they admitted of a
ready communication with each other in the more advanced stages of the
work.
The Smeaton having got on board necessaries for the
1807, 7th August.
floating-light, and three sets of chain-moorings with
mushroom-anchors, and large floating buoys, the writer
First trip of the sailed on another preliminary visit to the Bell Rock on
Artificers to the Bell
Rock. the 7th day of August, carrying with him Mr Peter
Logan, foreman builder, and five artificers, selected, on
this occasion, from their having been somewhat accustomed to the sea; the

writer being aware of the distressing trial which the floating-light would
necessarily inflict upon landsmen, from her rolling motion. Here he
remained till the 10th, and as the weather was favourable, a landing was
effected daily, when the workmen were employed in cutting the large sea-
weed from the sites of the light-house and beacon, which were respectively
traced with pick-axes upon the rock. In the mean time, the crew of the
Smeaton was employed in laying down the several sets of moorings within
about half a mile of the rock, for the conveniency of vessels riding at the
buoys by a hawser, instead of letting go an anchor, which, in that situation,
could seldom have been purchased or lifted again, as it would constantly
have hooked the rocky bottom, a disadvantage to which the mushroom
anchor, from its figure and construction, is not liable, as will be understood
by examining the diagram representing it in Plate X. Fig. 4. The artificers
having fortunately experienced moderate weather, returned to the work-yard
at Arbroath, with a good report of their treatment afloat; when their
comrades ashore began to feel some anxiety to see a place of which they
had heard so much, and to change the constant operation with the iron and
mallet in the process of hewing, for an occasional tide’s work on the rock,
which they figured to themselves as a state of comparative ease and
comfort.
In answer to some advances which had been made on
Rate of Artificers’
wages fixed on.
this subject by the artificers, the foreman was instructed
to select fourteen of the stone-cutters, who had been
accustomed to the use of the pick-axe, and to boring or drilling holes with a
jumper, after the manner of quarriers, to go off to the rock in the course of a
few days. When these men, however, came to be spoken to more closely,
some of them were disposed to hold their services rather at a high rate,
demanding two guineas per week if they were to find their own provisions,
and L. 1, 10s. if provisions were found to them. But they were informed,
that the nominal rate of wages was to be L. 1 per week, being the same for
those employed at the rock, as for those in the work-yard at Arbroath. The
artificers at the rock were, in addition, to have their provisions, with certain
premiums, to be arranged in the further progress of the work, particularly
for each tide’s work on Sunday, which was to be accounted and paid for as
a day’s work. After a good deal of trouble, two or three of the men acceded
to the foreman’s proposals, others refused to engage themselves, excepting
at the highest rate; while a third party objected only to working on Sunday.

In any agreement to be entered into, it was held as an express condition,
“That every man who embarked for the work at the Bell Rock, should
remain for the space of four weeks, without returning ashore.” Those
chiefly wanted at this time were masons from Aberdeen, who were
accustomed to the use of the boring-iron and pick, in working granite.
Being engaged only from week to week in the work-yard, they were
desirous of knowing the reason for remaining a month at the rock; when
they were informed that it was not unlikely some of them might suffer from
sea sickness, and wearying of confinement on board of ship, might wish to
return ashore, which would be attended with much inconveniency to the
work, by too frequent a change of hands. They were further told, that, by
continuing for one month afloat, they would, in the course of that time,
become so sea-hardy as probably to feel no desire to return till the end of
the working-season, which, at this advanced period, could not last for many
weeks. This condition was considered of importance in the commencement
of the work, and it was the more readily agreed to, as the writer assured
them that he should himself remain with them during that period. As one
condition, however, had been made to the Aberdeen masons, they felt no
hesitation in proposing another on their own part, and they accordingly
handed the following offer of service, addressed to the foreman, dated 12th
August 1807, which, from the tenor of the document, we shall here insert.
“In consequence of our communing with one another
Letter from the
Aberdeen Masons.
concerning the Bell Rock, we hereby agree to stay with
you from the above date, till August 1808, being twelve
months certain, and to take our turn at whatever work may start up
concerning the Bell Rock business,—only, it is to be understood, that the
rest of the masons must take turn and turn about with us: the terms of our
agreement to be 20s. per week, summer and winter, wet and dry, with free
quarters ashore, and likewise our victuals when we are at the rock.—As for
the Sunday’s work and premiums, we leave that to the honour of our
employers. (Signed) William Bonyman, John Bruce, John Cruickshanks,
Alexander Sherif, John Bonyman, Alexander Davidson, James Macdonald,
Robert Ferres, John Mason, William Chalmers.”
Every thing being arranged for sailing to the rock on Saturday the 15th, the
vessel might have proceeded on the Sunday; but understanding that this
would not be so agreeable to the artificers it was deferred until Monday.

Here we cannot help observing, that the men allotted for the operations at
the rock seemed to enter upon the undertaking with a degree of
consideration, which fully marked their opinion as to the hazardous nature
of the undertaking on which they were about to enter. They went in a body
to church on Sunday, and whether it was in the ordinary course, or designed
for the occasion, the writer is not certain, but the service was, in many
respects, suitable to their circumstances. Indeed, the Reverend Mr Gleg, the
minister of the parish, was in the constant habit of enquiring after the
success and safety of the works. Throughout this day the weather was
remarkably serene, and the best hopes were entertained of a favourable tract
of weather, which the inhabitants of Arbroath were disposed to consider as
an omen of good fortune.
The tide happening to fall late in the evening of
Monday, 17th. Monday the 17th, the party, counting twenty-four in
number, embarked on board of the Smeaton about 10
Twenty-four o’clock p. m., and sailed from Arbroath with a gentle
Artificers embark for
the Rock. breeze at west. Our ship’s colours having been flying
all day in compliment to the commencement of the
work, the other vessels in the harbour also saluted, which made a very gay
appearance. A number of the friends and acquaintances of those on board
having been thus collected, the piers, though at a late hour, were perfectly
crowded, and just as the Smeaton cleared the harbour, all on board united in
giving three hearty cheers, which were returned by those on shore in such
good earnest, that, in the still of the evening, the sound must have been
heard in all parts of the town, re-echoing from the walls and lofty turrets of
the venerable Abbey of Aberbrothwick. The writer felt much satisfaction at
the manner of this parting scene; though he must own, that the present
rejoicing was, on his part, mingled with occasional reflections upon the
responsibility of his situation, which extended to the safety of all who
should be engaged in this perilous work. With such sensations he retired to
his cabin; but as the artificers were rather inclined to move about the deck
than to remain in their confined births below, his repose was transient, and
the vessel being small, every motion was necessarily heard. Some who were
musically inclined occasionally sung; but he listened with peculiar pleasure
to the sailor at the helm, who hummed over Dibdin’s characteristic air,

“They say there’s a Providence sits up aloft,

To keep watch for the life of Poor Jack.”

Erection of the Beacon-House.

The weather had been very gentle all night, and, about four in the morning
of the 18th, the Smeaton anchored on the spot where it was intended to lay
down an additional set of chain-moorings which she had on board.
Agreeably to an arranged plan of operations, all hands were called at 5
o’clock, a. m., just as the highest part of the Bell Rock began to shew its
sable head among the light breakers, which occasionally whitened with the
foaming sea. The two boats belonging to the floating-light attended the
Smeaton, to carry the artificers to the rock, as her boat could only
accommodate about six or eight sitters. Every one was more eager than his
neighbour to leap into the boats, and it required a good deal of management
on the part of the coxswains, to get men unaccustomed to a boat, to take
their places for rowing and at the same time trimming her properly. The
landing-master and foreman went into one boat, while the writer took
charge of another, and steered it to and from the rock. This became the more
necessary in the early stages of the work, as places could not be spared for
more than two, or at most three seamen to each boat, who were always
stationed, one at the bow, to use the boat-hook in fending or pushing off,
and the other at the aftermost oar, to give the proper time in rowing, while
the middle oars were double banked, and rowed by the artificers.
As the weather was extremely fine, with light airs of
Tuesday, 18th.
wind from the east, we landed without difficulty upon
the central part of the rock at half-past 5, but the water
Commence work at 6 had not yet sufficiently left it for commencing the work.
a. m.
This interval, however, did not pass unoccupied; the
first and last of all the principal operations at the Bell Rock were
accompanied by three hearty cheers from all hands, and, on occasions like
the present, the steward of the ship attended, when each man was regaled
with a glass of rum. As the water left the rock about 6, some began to bore
the holes for the great bats or holdfasts, for fixing the beams of the Beacon-
house, while the smith was fully attended in laying out the site of his forge,
upon a somewhat sheltered spot of the rock, which also recommended itself
from the vicinity of a pool of water for tempering his irons. These

preliminary steps occupied about an hour, and as nothing further could be
done during this tide towards fixing the forge, the workmen gratified their
curiosity, by roaming about the rock, which they investigated with great
eagerness till the tide overflowed it. Those who had been sick picked dulse
(Fucus palmatus), which they ate with much seeming appetite; others were
more intent upon collecting limpets for bait, to enjoy the amusement of
fishing when they returned on board of the vessel. Indeed none came away
empty handed, as every thing found upon the Bell Rock was considered
valuable, being connected with some interesting association. Several coins,
and numerous bits of shipwrecked iron were picked up, of almost every
description; and, in particular, a marking-iron lettered James,—a
circumstance of which it was thought proper to give notice to the public, as
it might lead to the knowledge of some unfortunate shipwreck, perhaps
unheard of till this simple occurrence led to the discovery. When the rock
began to be overflowed, the landing-master arranged the crews of the
respective boats, appointing twelve persons to each. According to a rule,
which the writer had laid down to himself, he was always the last person
who left the rock. Another maxim was, to allow the landing-master’s boat to
proceed about twice or three times her own length a-head of the other boats,
that in case of accident he might be ready to assist; and when he had thus
cleared the rock, he waited till the others got out of the respective creeks;
after which they proceeded in company. Upon the present occasion, the
boats reached the tender about half-past 8, after having been two hours
upon the rock, and three hours absent from the ship.
In a short time, the Bell Rock was laid completely under water, and the
weather being extremely fine, the sea was so smooth, that its place could
not be pointed out from the appearance of the surface,—a circumstance
which sufficiently demonstrates the dangerous nature of this rock, even
during the day, and in the smoothest and calmest state of the sea. During the
interval between the morning and the evening tides, the artificers were
variously employed in fishing and reading, others were busy in drying and
adjusting their wet clothes, and one or two amused their companions with
the violin and German-flute.
About 7 in the evening the signal bell for landing on the
Method of fixing
iron-bats into the
rock was again rung, when every man was at his
Rock. quarters. In this service it was thought more appropriate

to use the bell than to pipe to quarters, as the use of this instrument is less
known to the mechanic than the sound of the bell. The landing, as in the
morning, was at the eastern harbour. During this tide, the sea-weed was
pretty well cleared from the site of the operations, and also from the tracks
leading to the different landing-places; for walking upon the rugged surface
of the Bell Rock, when covered with sea-weed, was found to be extremely
difficult, and even dangerous. Every hand that could possibly be occupied,
was now employed in assisting the smith to fit up the apparatus for his
forge. The frame-work of iron, forming the hearth, was now got into its
place; and the four legs which supported it were let into holes, bored from
six to twelve inches into the rock, according to the inequalities of the site:
and then firmly wedged, first with wood, and then with iron, a method
followed in all the operations of batting at the Bell Rock, and found greatly
preferable to running in melted lead. The block of timber for supporting the
anvil was fixed in the same manner, on which the anvil was simply laid,
without any other fixture than the small stud, fitted as usual into its seat,
depending upon the gravity of the mass for preserving its place against the
effects of the sea. In this state things were left on the rock at 9 p. m., when
the boats returned to the tender, after other two hours work, in the same
order as formerly, perhaps as much gratified with the success that attended
the work of this day, as with any other in the whole course of the
operations. Although it could not be said that the fatigues of this day had
been great, yet all on board retired early to rest. The sea being calm, and no
movement on deck, it was pretty generally remarked in the morning, that
the bell awakened the greater number on board from their first sleep; and,
though this observation was not altogether applicable to the writer himself,
yet he was not a little pleased to find, that thirty people could all at once
become so reconciled to a night’s quarters within a few hundred paces of
the Bell Rock.
It was a rule laid down and adhered to by the writer,
Wednesday, 19th.
throughout the whole of the Bell Rock works, that, as
far as possible, the charge should be arranged into
Landing-master’s departments. It therefore fell to the officer termed the
duty.
Landing-master, who was also master of the Floating-
light, to take the responsibility of the safe and proper landing of the
artificers and materials upon the rock. With him, the writer generally
arranged the business of the following day; his crew watched the ebbing of

the water, and the appearance of the rock, and from the state of the weather,
he judged of the proper time for causing the signal bell to be rung, when the
boats were to leave the ship for the rock. It was also a special injunction
laid upon him to say, from the state of the weather, when it was necessary
for the boats to leave the rock and return to the tender.
Being extremely anxious at this time to get forward
Indications of the
weather.
with fixing the smith’s forge, on which the progress of
the work at present depended, the writer requested that
he might be called at day-break to learn the landing-master’s opinion of the
weather, from the appearance of the rising sun, a criterion by which
experienced seamen can generally judge pretty accurately of the state of the
weather for the following day. About 5 o’clock, on coming upon deck, the
sun’s upper limb or disk had just begun to appear, as if rising from the
ocean; and in less than a minute he was seen in the fullest splendour; but
after a short interval he was enveloped in a soft cloudy sky, which was
considered emblematical of fine weather. His rays had not yet sufficiently
dispelled the clouds which hid the land from view, and the Bell Rock being
still overflowed, the whole was one expanse of water. This scene in itself
was highly gratifying; and when the morning bell was tolled, we were
gratified with the happy forebodings of good weather, and the expectation
of having both a morning and an evening tide’s work on the rock.
The boats left the ship at a quarter before 7 this
Wednesday, 19th.
morning, and landed upon the rock at 7. The water had
gone off the rock sooner than was expected, for, as yet,
the seamen were but imperfectly acquainted with its periodic appearance,
and the landing-master being rather late with his signal this morning, the
artificers were enabled to proceed to work without a moment’s delay. The
boat which the writer steered happened to be the last which approached the
rock at this tide; and, in standing up in the stern, while at some distance, to
see how the leading boat entered the creek, he was astonished to observe
something in the form of a human figure, in a reclining posture, upon one of
the ledges of the rock: he immediately steered the boat through a narrow
entrance to the eastern harbour, with a thousand unpleasant sensations in his
mind. He thought a vessel or boat must have been wrecked upon the rock
during the night; and it seemed probable that the rock might be strewed
with dead bodies, a spectacle which could not fail to deter the artificers

from returning so freely to their work. Even one individual found in this
situation, would naturally cast a damp upon their minds, and, at all events,
make them much more timid in their future operations. In the midst of these
reveries, the boat took the ground at an improper landing place; but, without
waiting to push her off, he leapt upon the rock, and making his way hastily
to the spot which had privately given him alarm, he had the satisfaction to
ascertain, that he had only been deceived by the peculiar situation and
aspect of the smith’s anvil and block, which very completely represented
the appearance of a lifeless body upon the rock. The writer carefully
suppressed his feelings, the simple mention of which might have had a bad
effect upon the artificers, and his haste passed for an anxiety to examine the
apparatus of the smith’s forge, left in an unfinished state at the evening tide.
After an excellent tide’s work of three hours at the
Dangerous situation
in foggy weather.
forge, and boring the bat-holes for fixing the Beacon-
house, we again took to our boats, and left the rock at
10 o’clock, the one boat preceding and waiting for the other till it cleared
the rock, as formerly. In the course of this morning’s work, two or three
apparently distant peals of thunder were heard, and the atmosphere
suddenly became thick and foggy. But as the Smeaton, our present tender,
was moored at no great distance from the rock, the crew on board continued
blowing with a horn, and occasionally fired a musket, so that the boats got
to the ship without difficulty. The occurrence of thick weather, however,
became a serious consideration, in looking forward to the necessary change
of quarters to the Pharos, distant about one mile from the rock, instead of a
few hundred yards, as in the case of the Smeaton.
The continuation of the thick and foggy weather was
Artificers amuse
themselves with
transient, being what seamen term an easterly hoar,
fishing. arising from the heat of the weather, which disappeared
soon after mid-day. The weather being clear in the
evening, the boats landed again at half-past 6 o’clock, when the artificers
were employed for two hours, as in the morning, and returned again to the
ship about a quarter past 8. The remainder of the day-light was eagerly
spent in catching fish, which were got, at this time, in great abundance, both
alongside of the vessel and in the boats at a distance; and in the course of an
hour about five dozen of codlings were caught, which not only afforded an

agreeable relaxation, but afforded a plentiful dish of fish for the different
messes on board.
The wind this morning inclined from the north-east, and
Thursday, 20th.
the sky had a heavy and cloudy appearance, but the sea
was smooth, though there was an undulating motion on
Complete the fixing the surface, which indicated easterly winds, and
of the smith’s forge.
occasioned a slight surf upon the rock. But the boats
found no difficulty in landing at the western creek at half-past 7, and, after a
good tide’s work, left it again about a quarter from 11. In the evening the
artificers landed at half-past 7, and continued till half-past 8, having
completed the fixing of the smith’s forge, his vice, and a wooden board or
bench, which were also batted to a ledge of the rock, to the great joy of all,
under a salute of three hearty cheers. From an oversight on the part of the
smith, who had neglected to bring his tinder-box and matches from the
vessel, the work was prevented from being continued for at least an hour
longer.
It may here be proper to notice, that although a
Valuable services of
the smith at the Bell
considerable quantity of jumpers or boring-irons, picks,
Rock. and other quarry-tools, had been brought, in good order,
for the use of the work; yet, from the extent of work in
preparing the foundations, together with the hard and compact nature of the
sandstone, of which the Bell Rock is composed, the tools soon became
blunt, and the work must have often been completely at a stand, had it not
been for the conveniency of having a smith and his forge so near at hand.
The writer doubts not that his readers may be at a loss to account for the
operation of the bellows and other apparatus upon a sunken rock, and it
may therefore be necessary, in the accompanying description of the plates
of this work, to give some explanation of this arcanum of Vulcan, on which
the work had so great a dependence. The smith’s shop, represented in Plate
XI. was of course in open space: the large bellows were carried to and from
the rock every tide, for the serviceable condition of which, together with the
tinder-box, fuel and embers of the former fire, the smith was held
responsible. Those who have been placed in situations to feel the
inconveniency and want of this useful artizan, will be able to appreciate his
value in a case like the present. Mr Smeaton often felt the want of a forge
permanently upon the rock, and had the foundation of the Eddystone Light-

house required more extensive preparations, this useful
Much wanted at the implement could hardly have been dispensed with; but
Eddystone.
the Eddystone rock was so small as hardly to have
room for it, in addition to other no less necessary apparatus. Could the
operations of the blacksmith, at the Bell Rock, have been continued, from
the commencement of the operations, even for half an hour longer every
tide than the pickmen or quarriers, it would have added much to the
facilities and progress of the work. But a stage or platform, in that case,
must have been erected, to which there were a number of intervening
obstacles, that more than counter-balanced the temporary inconveniency
felt from the want of this additional time. It often happened, to our
annoyance and disappointment, in the early state of the work, when the
smith was in the middle of a favourite heat, in making some useful article,
or in sharpening the tools, after the flood-tide had obliged the pickmen to
strike work, a sea would come rolling over the rocks, dash out the fire, and
endanger his indispensable implement the bellows; or if the sea was
smooth, while the smith often stood at work knee-deep in water, the tide
rose by imperceptible degrees, first cooling the exterior of the fire-place, or
hearth, and then quietly blackening and extinguishing the fire from below.
The writer has frequently been amused at the perplexing anxiety of the
blacksmith, when coaxing his fire, and endeavouring to avert the effects of
the rising tide. In this state of things, the erection of the Beacon was looked
forward to as a happy period, when the smith should be removed above the
reach of the highest tides.
Friday, 21st. The weather still continued to be very fine; though the
winds were variable, they rather prevailed from the
Seals desert the Bell eastward, and were occasionally accompanied with a
Rock. hazy atmosphere, inclining to fog. The boats landed to-
day upon the rock at half-past 7 o’clock a. m., and left it
at a quarter past 11, the artificers having had an excellent tide’s work of
three hours and three-quarters. Every thing connected with the forge being
now completed, the artificers found no want of sharp tools, and the work
went forward with great alacrity and spirit. It was also alleged that the rock
had a more habitable appearance, from the volumes of smoke which
ascended from the smith’s shop; and the busy noise of his anvil; the
operations of the masons; the movements of the boats, and shipping at a
distance, all contributed to give life and activity to the scene. This noise and

traffic had, however, the effect of almost completely banishing the herd of
seals which had hitherto frequented the rock as a resting place, during the
period of low water. Though these animals were thus prevented from
reposing upon the higher parts of the rock, yet they ventured, for a time, to
lie upon the more detached outlayers which dry partially: here they seemed
to look with that sort of curiosity which is observable in these animals when
following a boat. But after the smith established himself, it was rare to see
more than one or two of these amphibious animals about the rock, which
seemed to be peculiarly adapted to their habits; for, excepting two or three
days at neap tides, a part of it always dries at low water, at least during the
summer season; and as there was good fishing ground in the
neighbourhood, without a human being to disturb or molest them, it had
become a very favourite residence of the seal, if we may judge from their
numbers, the writer having occasionally counted from fifty to sixty of these
animals playing about the rock at a time. But when they came to be
disturbed every tide, and their seclusion was broke in upon by the kindling
of great fires, together, with the beating of hammers and picks during low
water, after hovering about for a time, they changed their place, and seldom
more than one or two were to be seen about the rock. The writer felt a
desire to protect these animals, with a view to observe their habits, and in
hopes of taming them, at least so far as he had observed was done at the
Small’s Light-house, off the coast of Pembrokeshire, another favourite
resort of seals, where, by gentle treatment, they have become so tame and
familiar as to eat bread out of the hands of the light-keepers. But here,
indeed, they constantly find a resting place, as some of the Small’s rocks are
always above water.
We had now been six days out from Arbroath, and, in
Progress of the work.
that time, had the good fortune to have seven
successive tides’ work upon the rock, during which, the
smith’s forge had been fixed, and twelve holes of 2 inches in diameter and
18 inches in depth, had been bored or drilled into the rock, in the process of
excavating the bat or stanchion-holes for fixing the principal beams of the
Beacon-house. Hitherto the artificers had remained on board of the
Smeaton, which was made fast to one of the mooring buoys, at the distance
only of about a quarter of a mile from the rock, and of course a very great
conveniency to the work. Being so near, the seamen could never be
mistaken as to the progress of the tide, or state of the sea upon the rock, nor

could the boats be much at a loss to pull on board of the vessel during fog,
or even in very rough weather; as she could be cast loose from her
moorings at pleasure, and brought to the lee side of the rock. But the
Smeaton being only about forty register tons, her accommodations were
extremely limited. It may, therefore, be easily imagined,
Hampered state of the that an addition of twenty-four persons to her own crew,
artificers.
must have rendered the situation of those on board
rather uncomfortable. This vessel served as a tender only in fine weather,
with the assistance of the boats of the floating-light, for she could not stow
boats sufficiently large for attending the rock with such a complement of
artificers. The only place for the men’s hammocks on board being in the
hold, they were unavoidably much crowded; and if the weather had
required the hatches to be fastened down, so great a number of men could
not possibly have been accommodated. To add to this evil, the co-boose or
cooking place being upon deck, it would not have been possible to have
cooked for so large a company in the event of bad weather.
The stock of water was now getting short, and some necessaries being also
wanted for the floating-light, the Smeaton was dispatched for Arbroath; and
the writer with the artificers, at the same time, shifted their quarters from
her to the floating-light.
The operations still continued to be favoured with
Saturday, 22d.
pleasant weather; to-day there were light airs of wind
from south-east, and the morning bell was rung at 6.
Inconveniencies of Although the rock barely made its appearance at this
the Pharos as a tender.
period of the tides till 8 o’clock, yet, having now a full
mile to row from the floating-light to the rock, instead of about a quarter of
a mile from the moorings of the Smeaton, it was necessary to be earlier
astir, and to form different arrangements; breakfast was accordingly served
up at 7 o’clock this morning. From the excessive motion of the floating-
light, the writer had looked forward rather with anxiety to the removal of
the workmen to this ship. Some among them, who had been congratulating
themselves upon having become sea-hardy while on board of the Smeaton,
had a complete relapse on returning to the floating-light. This was also the
case with the writer. From the spacious and convenient birthage of the
floating-light, the exchange to the artificers was, in this respect, much for
the better. The boats were also commodious, measuring sixteen feet in

length on the keel, so that, in fine weather, their complement of sitters was
sixteen persons for each, with which, however, they were rather crowded,
but she could not stow two boats of larger dimensions. When there was
what is called a breeze of wind, and a swell in the sea, the proper number
for each boat could not, with propriety, be rated at more than twelve
persons.
The act of getting into or out of a boat, when alongside of the floating-light,
was at all times attended with more or less difficulty; her rolling motion
was so great, that the gunwale, though about five feet above the surface of
the water, she dipped nearly into it, upon the one side, while her keel could
not be far from the surface on the other. This was her state, even in
moderate weather, in certain directions of the wind, especially for the period
of about an hour, when she was thwarting to the tide, or rode in what sailors
call the trough of the sea. The act of getting on board was then attended
with great difficulty, even to seamen, and was particularly so to landmen,
requiring all the attention which the landing-master could bestow, in getting
the artificers safely transferred from the boats to the ship, and vice versa.
When the tide-bell rung, the boats were hoisted out, and
Difficulty of getting
on board and leaving
two active seamen were employed to keep them from
the Pharos. receiving damage alongside. The floating-light being
very buoyant, was so quick in her motions, that when
those who were about to step from her gunwale into a boat, placed
themselves upon a cleat or step on the ship’s side, with the man or rail ropes
in their hands, they had often to wait for some time, till a favourable
opportunity occurred for stepping into the boat. While in this situation, with
the vessel rolling from side to side, watching the proper time for letting go
the man-ropes, it required the greatest dexterity and presence of mind to
leap into the boat. One who was rather awkward, would often wait a
considerable period in this position: at one time his side of the ship would
be so depressed, that he would touch the boat to which he belonged, while
the next sea would elevate him so much, that he would see his comrades in
the boat on the opposite side of the ship, his friends in the one boat calling
to him to “Jump,” while those in the boat on the other side, as he came
again and again into their view, would jocosely say, “Are you there yet?
You seem to enjoy a swing.” In this situation it was common to see a
person, upon each side of the ship, for a length of time, waiting to quit his

hold. A stranger to this sort of motion was both alarmed for the safety, and
delighted with the agility of persons leaping into the boat, under those
perilous circumstances. No sooner had one quitted his station on the
gunwale, than another occupied his place, until the whole were safely
shipped.

It also formed a critical operation with the sailors to
Difficulty of keeping keep the boats at a convenient distance from the vessel,
boats alongside.
to guard against being too far off; as, in that case, the
man, in the act of stepping off the ship’s side, might have been in danger of
falling into the sea. If, on the other hand, the boat was allowed to come in
contact with the vessel, she would have been in danger of being staved or
damaged. This state of things was fortunately not what we had to
commence with, as the weather happened to be, as before noticed, serene,
and the Smeaton’s sides were comparatively low in the water. The excessive
rolling of the Pharos did not therefore come upon the artificers all at once,
otherwise some unpleasant accidents must have happened, for in these
rolling operations, if a stranger had, in a moment of alarm, let go his hold,
at an improper time, he must have been pitched with violence into the sea.
The party being seated in their respective boats, they were pulled to the Bell
Rock in about twenty minutes, from the moorings of the Pharos, when the
water was smooth and the wind moderate. This morning the boats reached
the rock at 8 o’clock; the work commenced exactly at a quarter past 8, and
at half-past 11, the water again began to overflow the parts on which the
artificers were at work. Every tide now gave the writer more pleasant
prospects of the progress of the work than another, especially since the
erection of the smith’s forge.
On leaving the rock to-day, a trial of seamanship was
Artificers become proposed amongst the rowers, for by this time the
expert rowers.
artificers had become tolerably expert in this exercise.
By inadvertency, some of the oars provided had been made of fir instead of
ash, and although a considerable stock had been laid in, the workmen, being
at first awkward in the art, were constantly breaking their oars; indeed, it
was no uncommon thing to see the broken blades of a pair of oars floating
astern, in the course of a passage from the rock to the vessel. The men, upon
the whole, had but little work to perform in the course of a day; for though
they exerted themselves extremely hard while on the rock, yet, in the early
state of the operations, this could not be continued for more than three or
four hours at a time, and as their rations were large,
Rations of artificers. consisting of one pound and a half of beef,—one pound
of ship-biscuit,—eight ounces oatmeal,—two ounces
barley,—two ounces butter,—three quarts of beer,—with vegetables and

salt, they got into excellent spirits, when free of sea-sickness. The rowing of
the boats against each other became a favourite amusement; which was
rather a fortunate circumstance, as it must have been attended with much
inconvenience, had it been found necessary to employ a sufficient number
of sailors for this purpose. The writer, therefore, encouraged this spirit of
emulation, and the speed of their respective boats became a favourite topic.
Premiums for boat races were also instituted, which were contended for
with great eagerness, and the respective crews kept their stations in the
boats, with as much precision as they kept their beds on board of the ship.
With these, and other pastimes, when the weather was favourable, the time
passed away, among the inmates of the fore-castle and waist of the ship.
The writer looks back with interest upon the hours of solitude which he
spent in this lonely ship, with his small library.
“Saturday night at This being the first Saturday that the artificers were
Sea.” afloat, all hands were served with a glass of rum and
water at night, to drink the sailors favourite toast of
“Wives and Sweethearts.” It was customary, upon these occasions, for the
seamen and artificers to collect in the galley, when the musical instruments
were put in requisition; for, according to invariable practice, every man
must play a tune, sing a song, or tell a story. In this manner Saturday night,
in particular, passed away in a very happy manner, when much boisterous
mirth and loud peals of laughter occasionally broke forth. It is true, that this
could not proceed from a single glass, but every man sat down with a
determination to be pleased. They had, besides, a pretty liberal allowance of
good small beer, which the rations of the sick increased; and they contrived
to make the glass go round, and seemed to feel no want whatever, while the
ship kept from her excessive rolling motion.
The operations at the Bell Rock were still fortunate
Sunday, 23d.
with regard to the weather. The morning of Sunday set
in with light airs from the south-west, which, towards
mid-day, came to what sailors term fresh breezes, but towards evening it
fell calm, and the weather became foggy.
To some, it may require an apology, or, at least, call for
Reasons for
continuing the work
an explanation, why the writer took upon himself to
on Sunday. step aside from the established rules of society, by
carrying on the works of this undertaking during

Sundays. Such practices are not uncommon in the dock-yards and arsenals,
when it is conceived that the public service requires extraordinary exertions.
Surely, if, under any circumstances, it is allowable to go about the ordinary
labours of mankind on Sundays, that of the erection of a light-house upon
the Bell Rock, seems to be one of the most pressing calls which could in
any case occur, and carries along with it the imperious language of
necessity. When we take into consideration, that, in its effects, this work
was to operate in a direct manner for the safety of many valuable lives and
much property, the beautiful and simple parables of the Holy Scriptures,
inculcating works of necessity and mercy, must present themselves to every
mind unbiassed by the trammels of form or the influence of a distorted
imagination. In this perilous work, to give up every seventh day, would just
have been to protract the time a seventh part. Now, as it was generally
supposed, after taking all advantages into view, that the work would
probably require seven years for its execution, such an arrangement must
have extended the operation to at least eight years, and have exposed it to
additional risk and danger, in all its stages. The writer, therefore, felt little
scruple in continuing the Bell Rock works in all favourable states of the
weather.
Having, on the previous evening, arranged matters with
Preparations for
reading prayers on
the landing-master as to the business of the day, the
deck. signal was rung for all hands at half past 7 this
morning. In the early state of the spring-tides, the
artificers went to the rock before breakfast, but as the tides fell later in the
day, it became necessary to take this meal before leaving the ship. At 8
o’clock all hands were assembled on the quarter-deck for prayers, a
solemnity which was gone through in as orderly a manner as circumstances
would admit. Round the quarter-deck, when the weather permitted, the flags
of the ship were hung up as an awning or screen, forming the quarter-deck
into a distinct compartment with colours; the pendant was also hoisted at
the main-mast, and a large ensign flag was displayed over the stern; and,
lastly, the ship’s companion, or top of the staircase, was covered with the
flag proper of the Light-house Service, on which the Bible was laid. A
particular toll of the bell called all hands to the quarter-deck, when the
writer read a chapter of the Bible, and, the whole ship’s company being
uncovered, he also read the following impressive prayer, composed by the
Reverend Dr Brunton, one of the ministers of Edinburgh.

A Prayer for the use of those Employed at the Erection of the Bell Rock
Light-House.

“Almighty and ever blessed God! Thou art not confined to temples made with man’s
hands: The temple most acceptable to thee is the heart of thy worshipper: Thou hast
promised, that wherever thy servants are assembled, thou wilt be with them, to bless them
and to do them good. Unto us, O our Father! may the promise be fulfilled. Even here,
where no temple invites, and where no ordinances cheer us, be with us, we beseech thee,
while we meet in thy presence; and strengthen us to discharge the duties of thy holy day.
“The Sabbath was appointed to celebrate thy creating power: And here, where the
magnificence of thy works surrounds us,—where we see thy wonders in the deep,—where
we behold every morning thy Sun arise from the world of waters, to spread, as at the first,
light and beauty over Nature,—shall not our souls pour forth abundantly the tribute of
adoration to thee, whose word alone spake the Universe into being!
“The Sabbath commemorates that Providence which watcheth continually over the works
of thy hand: And shall not we, whom dangers so often threaten, and whom difficulties so
often alarm; shall not we, conscious of our frailty, and removed far from human aid; shall
not we raise the voice of thanksgiving to God, who alone protecteth us, and who, even in
the midst of danger, causeth us to dwell in safety!
“The Sabbath was appointed to commemorate the triumphs of redeeming love: And shall
not we hail it with delight, whose earliest infancy was hallowed in the name of Jesus; on
whose opening minds the doctrines of his faith were poured; who, even in this remote
abode, are permitted to call upon thy holy name in prayer,—to read the Oracles of
everlasting truth,—to speak one to another of the God who hath loved and blessed us!
“Our souls do magnify the Lord, our spirits rejoice in God our Saviour; for he that is
mighty hath done great things for his people, and his mercy is on them that fear him. We
bless thee for the doctrines which our Master taught,—for the example which he set before
us,—for the atonement by which he relieves us from the load of guilt,—for the hope which
he hath restored of grace and glory. We bless thee for the institutions which thou hast
appointed for enlightening thy people in religious knowledge, and for training them to lives
of usefulness and purity. With shame we remember how often we have abused our
Christian privileges,—how often we have neglected the exercises of private devotion,—
how often we have failed to study thy holy word,—how often, while yet it was in our
power to go up to the house of God, we have forsaken the assembling of ourselves
together,—how often we have worshipped thee with our lips, while our hearts were far
from thee. Visit us not, O God! in anger, for our transgression; but do thou enable us to
lament and forsake it. Let not the circumstances in which we now are placed, be permitted
to wean our affections from thy worship. But, while the service of humanity calls us to
labour even on this day of rest, save us,—O thou, who wilt have mercy and not sacrifice!—
save us from the temptation which might lead us to forget our God, and the duties which
we owe to him. Rather, while we are deprived of thine ordinances for a season, do thou
give us grace, through prayer and holy meditation, to compensate the loss; that we may,
with delight, look forward to the time when the courts of thy sanctuary shall be opened to
us again; when we, and those whom we love and value, shall again take sweet counsel
together, and walk in company to the house of God. Give to us, even now, O God of our
salvation! those pious and holy dispositions which will prepare us for the nobler worship,
offered to thee by the Angels of Heaven, and by the Spirits of just men made perfect.

“We pray to our common Father in behalf of all mankind. May the day-spring from on high
arise on those who now sit in darkness; and, where the light of the Gospel already shines,
may its influences be felt reviving and purifying.
“We pray especially for our native land;—for her peace,—her prosperity,—her liberties,—
and her honour. We pray for our king, and for all who are in authority over us. We pray
particularly for those by whose command we are engaged in this arduous work. Bless them
in their persons, in their families, and in the discharge of their official duty. Prosper, we
beseech thee, the work itself in which we are engaged. May it remain long after our eyes
have ceased to behold it. Long after our ashes are cold in the dust, may he that was ready to
perish have cause to bless the memory of those by whom it was reared.
“We pray for the people of our land. Purify them unto thyself a peculiar people, zealous of
good works: Bless them in their commerce, and in their harvests: Bless them in the pursuits
of honest industry: Bless them in the relations of domestic life: Bless them, above all, with
spiritual blessings in Christ Jesus.
“May the sons and daughters of affliction be enabled to profit by the bitter lesson with
which thou hast seen it meet to visit them. Restore the sick to usefulness, or prepare the
dying for judgment and eternity. May the living lay it to heart that they must die, and act as
it becometh those who know not how soon they shall be called hence.
“Our friends and families, from whom we are separated for a time, we commit to thy
protection, O God of love! Unspeakably precious is the thought, that thou carest for them,
—that thine eye is upon them continually,—and thine everlasting arms around them. Grant
that, in thy good time, we may meet them in peace;—Grant that we may be united
hereafter in that land where separation and pain are unknown for ever.
“Our enemies we beseech thee to forgive and bless. Bless us, even us also, O our Father!
Give us thy grace in every season of trial;—give us thy protection in every hour of danger.
Prepare us for the dispensations of thy Providence;—prepare us for the discharge of duty;
—prepare us for the inheritance of the just.
“And may grace, and mercy, and peace, from the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost, be
with us for ever.”

Upon concluding this service, which was attended with
Some of the artificers
decline working on becoming reverence and attention, all on board retired
Sunday. to their respective births to breakfast, and, at half-past
9, the bell again rung for the artificers to take their
stations in their respective boats. Some demur having been evinced on
board, about the propriety of working on Sunday, which had hitherto been
touched upon as delicately as possible, all hands being called aft, the writer,
from the quarter deck, stated generally the nature of the service, expressing
his hopes that every man would feel himself called upon to consider the
erection of a light-house on the Bell Rock, in every point of view, as a work
of necessity and mercy. He knew that scruples had existed with some, and
these had, indeed, been fairly and candidly urged before leaving the shore;
but it was expected, that, after having seen the critical nature of the rock,

and the necessity of the measure, every man would now be satisfied of the
propriety of embracing all opportunities of landing on the rock, when the
state of the weather would permit; and, in short, of exerting every effort in
this as a common cause, at least until the Beacon should be erected, being
an undertaking, on which the lives and safety of all connected with these
works had a constant dependence. The writer, farther, took them to witness,
that it did not proceed from want of respect for the appointments and
established forms of religion that he had himself adopted the resolution of
attending the Bell Rock works on the Sunday; but, as he hoped, from a
conviction that it was his bounden duty, on the strictest principles of
morality. At the same time it was intimated, that if any were of a different
opinion, they should be perfectly at liberty to hold their sentiments, without
the imputation of contumacy or disobedience; the only difference would be
in regard to the pay.
Upon stating this much, he stepped into his boat, requesting all who were so
disposed to follow him. The sailors, from their habits, found no scruple on
this subject, and all of the artificers, though a little tardy, also embarked,
excepting four of the masons, who, from the beginning, mentioned that they
would decline working on Sundays. The boats reached the rock at a quarter
past 10 o’clock a. m., and after a very active tide’s work of two hours and a
half, the water again overflowed the rock. It may here be noticed, that
throughout the whole of the operations, it was observable that the men
wrought, if possible, with more keenness upon the Sundays than at other
times, from an impression that they were engaged in a work of imperious
necessity, which required every possible exertion. On returning to the
floating-light, after finishing the tide’s work, the boats were received by the
part of the ship’s crew left on board, with the usual attention of handing
ropes to the boats, and helping the artificers on board; but the four masons
who had absented themselves from the work did not appear upon deck.
As the season advanced, the period of low water
Additional pay on
Sunday.
occurred later, and the writer did not consider it
advisable, in the present state of the works, to land on
the rock under night, there being nothing to mark its place prior to the
erection of the Beacon. Under more favourable circumstances, he would
willingly have landed this evening, to entitle the artificers who
accompanied him in the morning, to additional wages, as every tide’s work

on Sunday counted a day, according to the rate of pay and premiums which
he had laid down.
The weather, upon the whole, was very fine to-day, and
Monday, 24th.
the winds, though variable, were gentle; but from the
mildness of the season, it got rather foggy towards the
Neap-tides. Artificers evening. The boats left the floating-light at a quarter
working knee-deep in
water. past 9 o’clock this morning, and the work began at
three-quarters past 9; but as the neap tides were
approaching, the working-time at the rock became gradually shorter, and it
was now with difficulty that two and a half hours work could be got. But, so
keenly had the workmen entered into the spirit of the Beacon-house
operations, that they continued to bore the holes in the rock till some of
them were knee deep in water. In this work the sailors were also engaged,
taking their turns at the boring and other works.
The operations at this time, were entirely directed to the
Operations entirely
confined to the
erection of the beacon, in which every man felt an equal
Beacon. interest, as at this critical period the slightest casualty to
any of the boats at the rock might have been fatal to
himself individually, while it was perhaps peculiar to the writer more
immediately to feel for the safety of the whole. Each log or upright beam of
the beacon, was to be fixed to the rock by two strong and massive bats or
stanchions of iron, of a construction which will be better understood by
inspecting the diagrams on Plate VIII., and the accompanying description.
These bats, for the fixture of the principal and diagonal beams and bracing-
chains, required fifty-four holes, each measuring two inches in diameter,
and eighteen inches in depth. The operation of boring
Description of the
operation of boring
or drilling these deep holes in the rock, was conducted
the rock. with great dexterity in the following manner: Three
men were attached to each jumper or chisel; one placed
himself in a sitting posture, to guide the instrument and give it a turn at each
blow of the hammer; he also sponged or cleaned out the hole, and supplied
it occasionally with a little water; while the other two, with hammers of
sixteen pounds weight, struck the jumper alternately, generally bringing the
hammer with a swing round the shoulder, after the manner of blacksmiths’
work. The three men relieved each other in the operation of guiding the
jumper and striking with the hammers. The forms of the jumper, hammer,

and sponging-rod, are represented in Plate X., Figs. 7, 8, and 9. After many
observations, as to the time occupied in boring these holes, the writer found
that, when the tools were of a very good temper, they could be sunk at the
rate of one inch per minute, including stoppages. The holes for the
stanchions, when completed, measured seven inches in length, two inches
in breadth, and eighteen inches in depth. After a jumper had been sunk to
the necessary depth at each end of these holes, the most tedious part of the
operation was to cut out the piece of rock which remained between the two
jumper-holes, so as to clear it fully for the reception of the great iron
stanchions, which were of a dove-tail form.
Progress of the work.There had already been so considerable a progress
made in boring and excavating these holes, that the
writer’s hopes of getting the beacon erected this year, began to be more and
more confirmed, although it was now advancing towards what was
considered the latter end of the proper working season at the Bell Rock. The
foreman joiner, Mr Francis Watt, was accordingly appointed to attend at the
rock to-day, when the necessary levels were taken for the step or seat of
each particular beam of the beacon, that they might be cut to their
respective lengths, to suit the inequalities of the rock; several of the
stanchions were also tried into their places, and other necessary
observations made, to prevent mistakes on the application of the apparatus,
and to facilitate the operations, when the beams came to be set up, which
would require to be done in the course of a single tide.
We had now experienced an almost unvaried tract of
Tuesday 25th.
light airs of easterly wind, with clear weather in the
fore-part of the day, and fog in the evenings. To-day,
however, it sensibly changed; when the wind came to the south-west, and
blew a fresh breeze. At 9 a. m. the bell rung, and the boats were hoisted out,
and though the artificers were now pretty well accustomed to tripping up
and down the sides of the floating-light, yet it required more seamanship
this morning than usual. It therefore afforded some merriment to those who
had got fairly seated in their respective boats, to see the difficulties which
attended their companions, from the hesitating manner in which they
quitted hold of the man-ropes in leaving the ship. As it blew pretty fresh,
the passage to the rock was tedious, and the boats did not reach it till half-
past 10. By working upon the higher parts of the site of the beacon 1¼

hours work was got, though not without difficulty, and the men left off at a
quarter past 12 noon, completely drenched in water.
The masons and pickmen were employed in boring the
Difficult situation of
the Smith.
bat-holes, and in dressing and preparing the rock
between the holes, at the places on which the beams of
the beacon-house were to rest. It being now the period of neap-tides, the
water only partially left the rock, and some of the men, who were boring on
the lower ledges of the site of the beacon, stood knee-deep in water. The
situation of the smith to-day was particularly disagreeable, but his services
were at all times indispensable. As the tide did not leave the site of the
forge, he stood in the water, and as there was some roughness on the
surface, it was with considerable difficulty that, with the assistance of the
sailors, he was enabled to preserve alive his fire; and, while his feet were
immersed in water, his face was not only scorched, but continually exposed
to volumes of smoke, accompanied with sparks from the fire, which were
occasionally set up, owing to the strength and direction of the wind.
The wind had shifted this morning to N. NW. with rain,
Wednesday, 26th.
and was blowing what sailors call a fresh breeze,—for
as yet a correct and efficient wind-gauge remains a
Wind-gauge, and desideratum with the mechanical philosopher; and we
nomenclature for the
winds much wanted. have unfortunately no proper or satisfactory
nomenclature for expressing the force of the wind. To
speak, perhaps, somewhat intelligibly to the general reader, the wind was
such, that a fishing-boat could just carry full sail. The weather did not look
very favourable in the morning; but as it was of importance, especially in
the outset of the business, to keep up the spirit of enterprise for landing on
all practicable occasions, the writer, after consulting with the landing-
master, ordered the bell to be rung for embarking, and at half-past 11 the
boats reached the rock, and left it again at a quarter past 12, without,
however, being able to do much work, as the smith could not be set to work
from the smallness of the ebb and the strong breach of sea, which lashed
with great force among the bars of the forge.
Just as we were about to leave the rock, the wind
Difficult passage from
the Rock to the
shifted to the SW., and, from a fresh gale, it became
Floating-Light. what seamen term a hard gale, or such as would have
required the fisherman to take in two or three reefs in

his sail. The boats being rather in a crowded state for this sort of weather,
they were pulled with great difficulty towards the floating-light. Though the
boats were handsomely built, and presented little obstruction to the wind, as
those who were not pulling sat low, yet having the ebb-tide to contend with,
the passage was so very tedious, that it required two hours of hard work
before we reached the vessel.
It is a curious fact, before noticed, that the respective tides of ebb and flood
are apparent upon the shore about an hour and a half sooner than at the
distance of three or four miles in the offing. But what seems chiefly
interesting here is, that the tides around this small sunken rock should
follow exactly the same laws as on the extensive shores of the mainland.
When the boats left the Bell Rock to-day, it was overflowed by the flood-
tide, but the floating-light did not swing round to the flood-tide for more
than an hour afterwards. Under this disadvantage the boats had to struggle
with the ebb-tide and a hard gale of wind, so that it was with the greatest
difficulty they reached the floating-light. Had this gale happened in spring-
tides when the current was strong, we must have been driven to sea in a
very helpless condition.
The boat which the writer steered, was considerably
Life-buoy streamed.
behind the other, one of the masons having unluckily
broken his oar. Our prospect of getting on board, of
course, became doubtful, and our situation was rather perilous, as the boat
shipped so much sea that it occupied two of the artificers to bale and clear
her of water. When the oar gave way, we were about half a mile from the
ship, but being fortunately to windward, we got into the wake of the
floating-light, at about 250 fathoms astern, just as the Landing-master’s
boat reached the vessel. He immediately streamed or floated a life-buoy
astern, with a line which was always in readiness, and by means of this
useful implement, the boat was towed alongside of the floating-light, where,
from her rolling motion, it required no small management to get safely on
board, as the men were much worn out with their exertions in pulling from
the rock. On the present occasion, the crews of both boats were completely
drenched with spray, and those who sat upon the bottom of the boats to bale
them, were sometimes pretty deep in the water, before it could be cleared
out. After getting on board, all hands were allowed an extra dram, and

having shifted, and got a warm and comfortable dinner, the affair, it is
believed, was little more thought of.
This was the first difficult or tedious passage which had
Tender ordered
exclusively for the
been experienced in landing at the Bell Rock; it was
service of the Rock. also the first time that the writer had really felt the
inconveniency of not having a vessel entirely set apart
for the purposes of a tender. The floating-light, from the construction of her
moorings, and the service for which she was specially employed, could not
be cast loose or brought to the lea side of the rock in any case of emergency.
Neither could she be risked to ride at moorings near enough to the rock, to
place her in a more eligible situation for the purposes of the work. When
these circumstances were brought under the notice of the Commissioners, it
was ordered that a vessel should be provided, exclusively as a tender for the
operations of the rock; and this was accordingly done before the
commencement of the works of another season.
The tides were now in that state which sailors term the
Thursday, 27th.
dead of the neap, and it was not expected that any part
of the rock would be seen above water to-day; at any
Depth of water in the rate, it was obvious, from the experience of yesterday,
site of the building in
Neap-tides. that no work could be done upon it, and therefore the
artificers were not required to land. The wind was at
west, with light breezes, and fine clear weather; and as it was an object with
the writer to know the actual state of the Bell Rock at neap-tides, he got one
of the boats manned, and, being accompanied by the landing-master, went
to it at a quarter past 12. The parts of the rock that appeared above water
being very trifling, were covered by every wave, so that no landing was
made. Upon trying the depth of water with a boat-hook, particularly on the
sites of the Light-house and Beacon, on the former, at low water, the depth
was found to be three feet, and on the central parts of the latter it was
ascertained to be two feet eight inches. Having made these remarks, the
boat returned to the ship at 2 p. m., and the weather being good, the artificers
were found amusing themselves with fishing. The Smeaton came from
Arbroath this afternoon, and made fast to her moorings, having brought
letters and newspapers, with parcels of clean linen, &c. for the workmen;
who were also made happy by the arrival of three of their comrades from
the work-yard, ashore. From these men they not only received all the news

of the work-yard, but seemed themselves to enjoy great pleasure in
communicating whatever they considered to be interesting with regard to
the rock. Some also got letters from their friends at a distance, the postage
of which, for the men afloat, was always free, so that they corresponded the
more readily.
To-day the weather was not quite so agreeable as it had
Friday, 28th.
been yesterday, the wind being south-east, and blowing
what sailors term a fresh breeze, by which we
understand a force of wind that would be sufficient to cause the sails of a
fishing-boat to be reefed. At ½ past 1 p. m., the writer again went to the
rock, accompanied by the landing-master, when a depth of about four feet
of water was found upon the site of the Light-house, which may be
considered a medium depth, as nearly as this could be ascertained in its
present unworked state, but there was some surf upon the rock.
In the course of the night, the wind had shifted from
Saturday, 29th.
SE. to SW., and it blew very hard, being technically
termed a stiff gale, or rather too much wind for a
Some of the Artificers fishing-boat. It was therefore considered unsafe for the
wish to go ashore.
Smeaton to continue at her moorings, and the signal
was made for her to sail for Arbroath; she therefore got under way, but
although there was a packet of letters for the shore, and the artificers had
their memorandums in readiness, yet the floating-light rolled so
unmercifully, that it would have been at the imminent hazard of staving or
dashing a boat to pieces, had it been attempted to put one out. This was a
disappointment in one way, though it answered a good purpose in another,
as two of the three men, who had come last from the work-yard, earnestly
entreated that they might be allowed to return, as they could no longer
endure the rolling of the floating-light, a request in which they were
anxiously accompanied by one of the masons, who had all along been much
afflicted with sea-sickness. These applications were necessarily refused;
they then applied to have an interview with the writer, when they urged the
misery they were likely to suffer on board, without their being able to do
any work at the rock. To the two strangers the difficulty and danger of
putting out a boat was stated, as rendering it impossible for them to leave
the ship; while the third person was reminded of his engagement to remain
afloat for one month. In this manner these two men were put off, with the

prospect of better weather in the course of a day or two. With regard to the
other, he had suffered so severely, that the writer would have been happy to
have had him ashore, and he was informed that if his comrades would ask
leave for him, it would be granted. This being readily complied with, he
was left at full liberty to return to the work-yard. But, for the present, the
Smeaton was obliged to pass at a considerable distance, without being able
to communicate with the floating-light.
The wind was N.NE. this morning, in light airs, and the
Sunday, 30th.
weather was clear. This being Sunday, the usual
ceremony was observed at 12 noon, when the writer
Land upon the Rock read prayers on the quarter-deck. The ensuing set of
after five days
absence. spring-tides were now coming to hand, and, at 3 p. m.,
all the artificers embarked for the rock, excepting the
four men who had declined it last Sunday. Their places, however, were
willingly taken by the three men who came last from the shore, who were
happy to get relief from the disagreeable motion of the floating-light upon
any terms. The boats reached the rock at half-past 3; but being rather early
in the tide, the men rested on their oars till 4 o’clock, and then landed on the
different spots as they dried, where they remained till the tide ebbed
sufficiently to allow them to commence work. This was the first time the
artificers had landed on the rock for five days, owing to the state of the
weather and tides, and it was not a little flattering, on this occasion, to see
with what eagerness the workmen leaped upon it. Those who were not
troubled with sea-sickness, felt a degree of languor on board from which
their working hours formed rather a relaxation, while the sickly (by far the
greater number) felt immediate relief upon setting their foot upon terra
firma, even in its most circumscribed boundary. While the water was going
off the rock, the workmen were all busily employed in picking dulse, the
Fucus palmatus of botanists, and indeed any other of the marine plants
which happened to lie within their reach. Those who were the greatest
sufferers from sea-sickness always ate the most greedily upon these
occasions. Such incidental circumstances tended greatly to keep up the
desire for landing at the rock, and seemed, in some measure, to compensate
for the labour of rowing to and from it.
The operation of boring the bat-holes being in great forwardness, the men
were now chiefly employed in chiselling or cutting out the piece of rock

which remained between each pair of jumper-holes,
Method of fixing the forming a ridge of about two inches in thickness. When
stanchions in the rock.
this was cleared away, the bat-hole was of the proper
form, and, as before noticed, it measured about seven inches in length, two
inches in breadth, and eighteen inches in depth, an excavation which, from
its dimensions, must readily appear to have been attended with much
difficulty. The holes, though bored with the same size of chisels, as nearly
as might be, were not precisely of the same size; but this was not essential,
as the stanchion, when wedged in its place, completely filled the aperture.
This operation of chiselling out the middle piece, and widening the hole in
the form of a dove-tail, was a much more intricate and tedious operation
than boring perpendicularly with the jumper. At that process three men
worked with great celerity, whereas two only could be employed in cutting
out the divisions and widening the holes.
The site of the building having already been carefully traced out with the
pick-axe, the artificers, this day, commenced the excavation of the rock, for
the foundation or first course of the light-house. Four men only were
employed at this work, while twelve continued at the site of the Beacon-
house, at which every possible opportunity was embraced, till this essential
part of the operations should be completed. After having been two hours
upon the rock this tide, the water began to rise upon the smith’s forge and
the site of the Beacon-house, and at ¼ past 6 o’clock p. m. the artificers left
the rock.
The winds varied to-day from N.NE. to S. Though it
Monday, 31st.
blew pretty fresh, it was not accompanied with any
swell in the sea, and the weather upon the whole was
Longest day’s work very pleasant. At half-past 3 in the morning, the writer
hitherto had on the
Bell Rock. was called by the landing-master, to consult about the
state of the weather, and the practicability of landing
upon the rock. After some hesitation, the result was to proceed: the signal
bell for getting the boats ready was rung at 4 a. m., when all hands took to
their respective boats, and at half-past 4 the work commenced at the rock: it
continued till half-past 7, allowing an excellent tide’s work of three hours,
when the artificers again returned to the floating-light, and remained till the
evening tide. At 4 p. m. they landed, but did not begin to work till a quarter
from 5 o’clock, when the water had sufficiently left the rock. At a quarter

past 7 it was overflowed, when the boats returned to the ship, and the writer
was not a little elated, as the morning and evening tide had afforded no less
than five and a half hours work, being the greatest day’s work hitherto
obtained on the Bell Rock.
The weather was extremely pleasant throughout these
September, Tuesday,
1st.
twenty-four hours, though the wind veered and shifted
about from N.W. to W.SW. At 4 o’clock this morning
the bell made rather an unwelcome call, but all hands readily turned out. As
before mentioned, when the work commenced at these early hours, a dram
and a biscuit were served out to the artificers; and the writer, upon these
occasions, found a cup of coffee very salutary. Having landed at a quarter
from 5, the work was continued for three and a half hours, four men, as
before noticed, being employed on the site of the Light-house, and twelve at
the Beacon-house. The water overflowed the rock at a quarter past 7, when
the boats returned to the floating-light.
The Smeaton had arrived from Arbroath in the course
Smeaton brings off
the experimental
of the last night, and made fast to her moorings at the
cargo of stone. eastern buoy, which was nearest to the rock, as will be
seen from Plate V. Agreeably to appointment, she had
brought off six blocks of granite, for the purpose of making an experiment
regarding the landing of the stones on the rock. She also had in tow the
praam, or decked boat, brought from Leith astern of the Pharos, of which
mention has already been made. This boat, in smooth water, could carry
about six or seven tons upon deck.
The writer had looked forward to the trial of landing
Various suggestions
about landing the
weighty materials upon the rock, as a matter which was
stones. to determine an important point in the operations of the
Bell Rock light-house, and which could hardly be
resolved by any other means than actual trial. This part of the operation had
always been a matter of the greatest uncertainty with those conversant in
such matters, and it became essential to determine the point at this period,
by actual trial, before proceeding to the preparation of the craft and
apparatus requisite for the works of next season, which it would not have
been safe or prudent to rest upon doubtful hypothesis. In speculating upon
this point, some had suggested that each particular stone should be floated
to the rock, with a cork-buoy attached to it, while others would convert the

float into an air-tank for this purpose; a third proposed to sail over the rock
at high water, in a vessel of a flat construction, and drop the stones one after
another, while under way, or at anchor on the rock. Others took up a still
more extraordinary view of the case, and proposed to build so much of the
Light-house ashore, in a kind of coffer-dam or vessel, as would raise the
building to the level of the highest tide, and having previously prepared the
rock for its reception, they would scuttle the vessel, and settle this
ponderous mass, weighing perhaps 1000 tons, at once upon the rock. But it
were endless to follow the various conceptions, even of men of experience,
upon subjects of this kind. Though some of these propositions were
ingeniously conceived, yet they could not be carried into effect in such a
situation as the Bell Rock. Taking into view the uncertain state of the
weather, the brittle nature of stone, when worked to a delicate edge and
formed into angular points,—and, above all, considering the disadvantages
that would attend the loss, even of a single stone, by the unavoidable delay
it would occasion to the work, which might even in some instances hazard a
great part of the building,—the writer judged it safest to keep the vessels
that were to bring the stones from the workyard at moorings, laid down at a
convenient distance from the rock, so as to enable them to clear it, in case
of drifting. He also determined, as the safest method, that their cargoes
should be unloaded at these moorings, laid on decked praam-boats, and
towed to the rock by the landing-master’s crew, at low water, when the
artificers were at work, and ready to lay and secure the stones in their places
on the building. To put this to the test of actual experiment, the trial praam-
boat had been built, and the six rough blocks of stone were brought to the
rock.
The middle part of this day was occupied by the writer
Experiment of landing
on board of the Smeaton, at her moorings, where he
six blocks of Granite.
carefully attended to the process of bringing the praam
alongside, fixing her head and stern-ropes, and stationing the seamen at
their respective posts, for the purpose of landing this small, but, in his view,
important cargo. The mode by which the stones were taken out of the
Smeaton’s hold, and lowered on the praam’s deck, will be understood from
Plate XI. This was done by means of a gaff-boom, which traversed upon the
Smeaton’s mast, with the necessary tackles for guying it. An essential part
of this tackle was a travelling-crance, or ring of iron, by which the stone
might be lifted either at the extremities or at the central parts of the boom,

as best suited its position in the ship’s hold, or its intended place on the
praam’s deck. The length of this gaff-boom was thirteen feet, being
sufficient for lowering the stone upon the praam. Another part of this
apparatus, for lifting the stone, was a winch, fixed before the Smeaton’s
mast, consisting of a wheel two feet in diameter, worked by a pinion. The
stone being raised from the vessel’s hold, was laid on her deck, in order to
shift the crance tackle to the extremity of the gaff-boom. The chief charge
of the stone was then taken by the landing-master, till it was laid on the
praam’s deck, landed on the rock, and ultimately delivered over to the
foreman builder. In the act of working this apparatus, one man was placed
at each of the guy-tackles, who also assisted at the purchase-tackle for
raising the stone; and one of the ablest and most active of the crew was
appointed to hold on the end of the tackle-fall or purchase, which often
required all his strength, and his utmost agility in letting go, for the purpose
of lowering the stone at the instant when the word “Lower” was heard.
Much depended upon the promptitude with which this part of the operation
was performed, in a rolling sea, as our nautical readers will readily
understand. For this purpose, the man who held the end of the tackle placed
himself before the mast in a sitting, but more frequently in a lying posture,
with his feet stretched under the winch, and abutting against the mast, as, by
this means, he was enabled to exert his greatest strength. The signal being
given by the men in the hold, that the Lewis-bat was fixed into the stone,
and the tackle hooked, every man took his post. If the stone was very
weighty, the two men who were to receive it on board of the praam, assisted
in working the purchase, till the stone was got out of the hold, to be laid
upon deck, when the word “Lower” was given, in an audible and stern tone
of voice. After the traveller was shifted upon the gaff boom, the praam-men
returned to their post, and the stone was again lifted to a sufficient height, to
clear the vessel’s gunwale, when great attention became necessary in
working the guy-tackles, till the stone was brought over the praam’s deck,
and the watchword “Lower” given, if possible, with greater force than
before. The tackles were then unhooked, and in this manner the operation
proceeded until the stones were got on board of the praam-boat.
This description may seem particular; but the reason will appear obvious,
when it is recollected, that the landing of the materials has been considered
one of the most nice and difficult parts of seamanship, and on which the
best informed seamen were unable to say how it might answer, without

great risk to the crew, and damage to the stones, and even occasionally
losing them between the ship and the praam-boat. Both vessels being afloat,
and riding in the open sea, at the distance of about a quarter of a mile from
the Bell Rock, their motion was instantly communicated to the landing-gaff,
and so to the stone in the tackle. The six blocks of granite having been
placed upon the praam’s deck, she was towed to a floating-buoy, where she
was made fast, until the proper time of tide, for taking her into one of the
creeks of the rock.
At a quarter past 4 p. m., the boats, with the artificers,
Stones first landed on
the Rock.
left the floating-light, and the work of the evening tide
commenced at a quarter before 5. The sailors having
previously decorated the ships and the praam-boat with flags, she was
towed to the rock by two boats. The writer having resolved personally to
attend the whole progress of this experiment went on board of the praam-
boat, when she entered the eastern creek, where the foreman builder, at the
head of the artificers, gave three hearty cheers. As the praam had not water
to float her so far up the creek as the site of the building, her cargo was
delivered upon Smith’s Ledge, on the north side of this creek, as marked on
Plate VI. In the present unprepared state of the machinery and implements
upon the rock, the stones, in the present case, were raised with pinches, and
pushed ashore upon planks. The whole of this experiment succeeded to the
writer’s utmost expectation, who was thus led to conclude, that the
materials might be landed with much more expedition and certainty than he
had previously supposed. All hands spontaneously collected to witness the
landing of the first stone, which had no sooner touched the rock, than other
three cheers were given, and, on this occasion, a glass of rum was served
out by the steward. Having continued two hours upon the rock this evening,
the artificers left it at 7, and returned to the floating-light, while the landing-
master’s crew towed the praam-boat off to the Smeaton, that she might be
taken to Arbroath, having completed all that was intended with her, this
season.
The floating-light’s bell rung this morning at half-past 4
1807, September. o’clock, as a signal for the boats to be got ready, and the
landing took place at half-past 5. In passing the
Wednesday, 2d. Smeaton, at her moorings near the rock, her boat
followed with eight additional artificers who had come

from Arbroath with her at last trip, but there being no
First mode of room for them in the floating-light’s boats, they had
attaching the vessels
to their moorings. continued on board. The weather did not look very
promising in the morning, the wind blowing pretty
fresh from W.SW.; and had it not been that the writer calculated upon
having a vessel so much at command, in all probability he would not have
ventured to land. The Smeaton rode at what sailors call a salvagee, with a
cross-head made fast to the floating-buoy. This kind of attachment was
found to be more convenient, than the mode of passing the hawser through
the ring of the buoy, when the vessel was to be made fast. She had then only
to be steered very close to the buoy, when the salvagee was laid hold of
with a boat-hook, and the bite of the hawser thrown over the cross-head,
instead of being obliged to put out the boat, in order to pass the rope
through the ring of the buoy. But the salvagee, by this method, was always
left at the buoy, and was, of course, more liable to chaff and wear than a
hawser passed through the ring, which could be wattled with canvas, and
shifted at pleasure. The salvagee and cross method is, however, much
practised; but the experience of this morning showed it to be very
unsuitable for vessels riding in an exposed situation, for any length of time.
Soon after the artificers landed, they commenced work;
Smeaton breaks adrift
from her moorings.
but the wind coming to blow hard, the Smeaton’s boat
and crew, who had brought their complement of eight
men to the rock, went off to examine her riding ropes, and see that they
were in proper order. The boat had no sooner reached the vessel than she
went adrift, carrying the boat along with her, and both had even got to a
considerable distance before this situation of things was observed, every
one being so intent upon his own particular duty, that the boat had not been
seen leaving the rock. As it blew hard, the crew with much difficulty set the
mainsail upon the Smeaton, with a view to work her up to the buoy, and
again lay hold of the moorings. By the time that she was got round to make
a tack towards the rock, she had drifted at least three miles to leeward, with
the praam-boat astern; and having both the wind and a tide against her, the
writer perceived, with no little anxiety, that she could not possibly return to
the rock till long after its being overflowed; for, owing to the anomaly of
the tides formerly noticed, the Bell Rock is completely under water before
the ebb abates to the offing.

In this perilous predicament, indeed, he found himself
Perilous situation ofplaced between hope and despair,—but certainly the
those left on the
Rock. latter was by much the most predominant feeling of his
mind,—situate upon a sunken rock in the middle of the
ocean, which, in the progress of the flood-tide, was to be laid under water to
the depth of at least twelve feet in a stormy sea. There were this morning
thirty-two persons in all upon the rock, with only two boats, whose
complement, even in good weather, did not exceed twenty-four sitters; but,
to row to the floating-light with so much wind, and in so heavy a sea, a
complement of eight men for each boat, was as much as could, with
propriety, be attempted, so that, in this way, about one-half of our number
was unprovided for. Under these circumstances, had the writer ventured to
dispatch one of the boats in expectation of either working the Smeaton
sooner up towards the rock, or in hopes of getting her boat brought to our
assistance, this must have given an immediate alarm to the artificers, each
of whom would have insisted upon taking to his own boat, and leaving the
eight artificers belonging to the Smeaton to their chance. Of course, a
scuffle might have ensued, and it is hard to say, in the ardour of men
contending for life, where it might have ended. It has even been hinted to
the writer, that a party of the pickmen were determined to keep exclusively
to their own boat against all hazards.
The unfortunate circumstance of the Smeaton and her boat having drifted,
was, for a considerable time, only known to the writer, and to the landing-
master, who removed to the farther point of the rock, where he kept his eye
steadily upon the progress of the vessel. While the artificers were at work,
chiefly in sitting or kneeling postures, excavating the rock, or boring with
the jumpers, and while their numerous hammers, and the sound of the
smith’s anvil continued, the situation of things did not appear so awful. In
this state of suspense, with almost certain destruction at hand, the water
began to rise upon those who were at work on the lower parts of the sites of
the Beacon and Light-house. From the run of sea upon the rock, the forge
fire was also sooner extinguished this morning than usual, and the volumes
of smoke having ceased, objects in every direction became visible from all
parts of the rock. After having had about three hours work, the men began,
pretty generally, to make towards their respective boats for their jackets and
stockings, when, to their astonishment, instead of three, they found only
two boats, the third being adrift with the Smeaton. Not a word was uttered

by any one, but all appeared to be silently calculating their numbers, and
looking to each other with evident marks of perplexity depicted in their
countenances. The landing-master, conceiving that blame might be attached
to him for allowing the boat to leave the rock, still kept at a distance. At this
critical moment, the author was standing upon an elevated part of Smith’s
Ledge, where he endeavoured to mark the progress of the Smeaton, not a
little surprised that her crew did not cut the praam adrift, which greatly
retarded her way, and amazed that some effort was not making to bring at
least the boat, and attempt our relief. The workmen looked steadfastly upon
the writer, and turned occasionally towards the vessel, still far to leeward.
All this passed in the most perfect silence, and the melancholy solemnity of
the group made an impression never to be effaced from his mind.
The writer had all along been considering of various
Pilot boat accidentally
comes to our relief.
schemes,—providing the men could be kept under
command,—which might be put in practice for the
general safety, in hopes that the Smeaton might be able to pick up the boats
to leeward, when they were obliged to leave the rock. He was, accordingly,
about to address the artificers on the perilous nature of their circumstances,
and to propose, That all hands should unstrip their upper clothing, when the
higher parts of the rock were laid under water; that the seamen should
remove every unnecessary weight and encumbrance from the boats; that a
specified number of men should go into each boat, and that the remainder
should hang by the gunwales, while the boats were to be rowed gently
towards the Smeaton, as the course to the Pharos or floating-light lay rather
to windward of the rock. But when he attempted to speak, his mouth was so
parched, that his tongue refused utterance, and he now learned by
experience that the saliva is as necessary as the tongue itself for speech. He
then turned to one of the pools on the rock and lapped a little water, which
produced immediate relief. But what was his happiness, when, on rising
from this unpleasant beverage, some one called out “A boat, a boat!” and,
on looking around, at no great distance, a large boat was seen through the
haze making towards the rock. This at once enlivened and rejoiced every
heart. The timeous visitor proved to be James Spink, the Bell Rock pilot,
who had come express from Arbroath with letters. Spink had, for some
time, seen the Smeaton, and had even supposed, from the state of the
weather, that all hands were on board of her, till he approached more nearly,
and observed people upon the rock; but not supposing that the assistance of

his boat was necessary to carry the artificers off the rock, he anchored on
the lee-side and began to fish, waiting, as usual, till the letters were sent for,
as the pilot-boat was too large and unwieldy for approaching the rock, when
there was any roughness or run of the sea at the entrance of the landing
creeks.
Upon this fortunate change of circumstances, sixteen of
The boats have a
rough passage from
the artificers were sent, at two trips, in one of the boats,
the rock. with instructions for Spink to proceed with them to the
floating-light. This being accomplished, the remaining
sixteen followed in the two boats belonging to the service of the rock.
Every one felt the most perfect happiness at leaving the Bell Rock this
morning, though a very hard and even dangerous passage to the floating-
light still awaited us, as the wind, by this time, had encreased to a pretty
hard gale, accompanied with a considerable swell of sea. The boats left the
rock about 9, but did not reach the vessel till 12 o’clock noon, after a most
disagreeable and fatiguing passage of three hours. Every one was as
completely drenched in water as if he had been dragged astern of the boats.
The writer in particular, being at the helm, found, on getting on board, that
his face and ears were completely coated with a thin film of salt from the
sea spray, which broke constantly over the bows of the boat. After much
baling of water and severe work at the oars, the three boats reached the
floating-light, where some new difficulties occurred in getting on board in
safety, owing partly to the exhausted state of the men, and partly to the
violent rolling of the vessel.
As the tide flowed, it was expected that the Smeaton
Smeaton bears away
for Arbroath.
would have got to windward, but, seeing that all was
safe, after tacking for several hours, and making little
progress, she bore away for Arbroath, with the praam boat. As there was
now too much wind for the pilot-boat to return to Arbroath, she was made
fast astern of the floating-light, and the crew remained on board till next
day, when the weather moderated. There can be very little doubt, that the
appearance of James Spink with his boat, on this critical occasion, was the
means of preventing the loss of lives at the rock this morning. When these
circumstances, some years afterwards, came to the knowledge of the Board,
a small pension was ordered to our faithful pilot, then in his seventieth year;

and he still continues to wear the uniform clothes and badge of the Light-
house service.
The experience of this day’s hard passage to the
Indispensable utility
of the Beacon-house.
floating-light strongly impressed the writer with the
inconveniency and danger arising from the want of a
proper tender, which could be cast loose at pleasure, and brought to the lee-
side of the rock, and could, at all times, be moored nearer than it would
have been safe or proper to have risked a vessel of the description of the
floating-light. Another circumstance, no less deeply interesting to the safety
of those on the rock, was the erection of the beacon-house, as a place of
refuge in cases like the present. Here the writer could not help
congratulating himself not only upon the near prospect of completing this
work, but also on the perseverance with which he had maintained the
indispensable necessity of the erection of the beacon. He was aware of the
well grounded fears for the safety of all concerned, in the event of its being
washed away by the sea; but, without such an erection on the Bell Rock, it
is impossible to describe the continual hazard which must have attended the
undertaking, or to determine the period when works so peculiarly situate,
and especially so low in the water, might have been brought to a conclusion.
The bell rung this morning at 5 o’clock, but the writer
Thursday, 3d.
must acknowledge, from the circumstances of
yesterday, that its sound was extremely unwelcome.
Eighteen of the This appears also to have been the feelings of the
artificers decline
embarking for the artificers, for when they came to be mustered, out of
rock. twenty-six, only eight, besides the foreman and seamen,
appeared upon deck, to accompany the writer to the
rock. Such are the baneful effects of any thing like misfortune or accident
connected with a work of this description. The use of argument to persuade
the men to embark, in cases of this kind, would have been out of place, as it
is not only discomfort, or even the risk of the loss of a limb, but life itself,
that becomes the question. The boats, notwithstanding
The boats proceed
with eight.
the thinness of our ranks, left the vessel at half-past 5.
The rough weather of yesterday having proved but a
summer’s gale, the wind came to-day in gentle breezes, yet the atmosphere
being cloudy, it had not a very favourable appearance. The boats reached
the rock at 6 a. m., and the eight artificers who landed, were employed in

clearing out the bat-holes for the beacon-house, and had a very prosperous
tide of four hours work, being the longest yet experienced by half an hour.
The boats left the rock again at 10 o’clock, and the weather having cleared
up as we drew near the vessel, the eighteen artificers who had remained on
board were observed upon deck; but as the boats approached, they sought
their way below, being quite ashamed of their conduct. This was the only
instance of refusal to go to the rock which occurred during the whole
progress of the work, excepting that of the four men who declined working
upon Sunday, a case which the writer did not conceive to be at all analogous
to the present. It may here be mentioned, much to the credit of these four
men, that they stood foremost in embarking for the rock this morning.
Indeed, it seemed quite evident, that the backwardness of the artificers to-
day arose from certain doubting expressions about the state of the weather,
made through the inadvertency of some of the nautical people on board, in
allusion to the state of the weather of yesterday.
A second landing was made in the evening tide, at a quarter past 6, with
twenty of the artificers, six having been left on board for want of sitting-
room in the boats; but as the work was not carried on with torch-light, till
after the erection of the beacon-house, the boats left the rock again at a
quarter past 7, the men having been employed chiefly at the bat-holes of the
beacon-house.
All hands, twenty-six in number, landed this morning,
Friday, 4th.
having been assisted by the Smeaton’s boat, as she had
again returned from Arbroath to her moorings at the
rock. After three hours’ work, the boats returned to the Pharos at a quarter
past 10, leaving eight hands on board the Smeaton, as formerly, which
preserved a convenient complement of sitters in the other two boats.
From the late accident of the Smeaton’s drifting,
Captain Pool’s
precautionary measures were taken to impress upon
account of the drifting
of the Smeaton. Captain Pool, and his mate Mr Macurich, that their ship
was not once to be put in competition with the safety of
the people on the rock. Orders were also more strictly enforced upon the
landing-master, that on no occasion whatever should the boats attending the
rock be permitted to leave it, without carrying along with them the
complement of men which they respectively brought to the rock. Upon

examining the master of the Smeaton as to the circumstances of his vessel
breaking adrift, it appeared that the salvagee had been chaffed, and that it
had given way by the excessive motion of the vessel. Being also examined
as to his intentions with regard to the people left on the rock on the 2d
instant, he stated, that, when tacking the ship, he had seen the Pilot-boat a
considerable time before it was likely that she could be seen at the rock; and
that he was just about to cut the praam adrift, when he got sight of the boat.
After setting sail on the Smeaton, his intentions were to try a tack or two, to
see if she gained to windward, but if, on trial, she appeared to lose way, his
intentions were to lash the helm to leeward, and leaving the boy on board of
the vessel, he was to man the boat and make towards our relief. Captain
Pool, in concluding his account of this matter, added, that “both ship and
praam should have gone to the d——l, rather than that the people upon the
rock should have been left to perish.” But he stated, that he was in much
confusion for a time;—indeed, until he got sight of the pilot boat, that he
was almost in a state of distraction, he and his ship’s company being in a
continual wrangle about what was best to be done in so critical a situation.
This accident put an end to the mode of riding at the Bell Rock floating
buoys by a salvagee and cross-head, the hawser being in future passed
through the ring of the buoy, and the end of it taken on board of the vessel;
which was found to be much more safe, though not quite so expeditious as
the other.
The wind having shifted to N.NW., the weather had a
Saturday, 5th.
favourable appearance this morning. But on landing at
the rock at 7 a. m., there was a considerable swell from
the eastward, so that the boats had some difficulty in approaching the
eastern creek. The artificers, however, had a most excellent tide’s work,
having continued four hours at work, or till 11 o’clock. The boring and
preparations for the Beacon-house being nearly completed, only twelve of
the artificers were employed at this work, while fourteen were excavating
and preparing the site of the Light-house.
This being the third day after new moon, it was
Ascertain the
comparative level of
estimated the lowest ebb of the present spring-tides.
the site of the The writer therefore caused a part of the site of the
building. building to be reduced to what he considered a medium
level of the whole. This he compared with low water-

mark, as noted by the landing-master, at the moment when the tide ceased
to ebb and began to flow. An assistant with a rod having been stationed at
low water-mark previously determined, another was placed at the spot
ascertained to be the medium level of the site of the building; a spirit-level
was then set at a convenient position between these upright rods, when the
writer found that the medium height of the site of the building, in the
present rough and irregular state of its surface, was about three feet three
inches above low water-mark of spring tides. By further observation, it was
also found, that the highest part of the foundation of the building, in its
present unprepared state, was six feet above low water-mark. This highest
part consisted of a large rounded mass, which declined gradually on all
sides, excepting on the north-east, where it was more abrupt. The writer had
originally some thought of taking advantage of this part of the rock, by
connecting it, after Mr Smeaton’s plan, with the lower courses of the
building. But after working for some time, with this object in view, it was
found to contain several large fissures, which rendered it more advisable to
clear away the whole, and reduce the site of the building to a uniform level.
Finding it impossible, with any degree of safety, to
Full complement of
Floating Buoys
carry to the floating-light, in the two boats belonging to
moored. this ship, more than eighteen artificers, and four
seamen, together with the landing-master, the foreman
and the writer, eight of the present complement of men were lodged on
board of the Smeaton, and when she went to Arbroath for water and fuel,
they necessarily accompanied her. Before sailing, she laid down a fourth
mushroom-anchor, and mooring-chain, with a floating buoy, for the use of
the praam-boat. It was not at all likely that there would be much use for so
many sets of moorings for the operations of this season; but it was desirable
to have the probable number laid down that might ultimately be required for
the works, in order that the fitness of their respective situations might be
ascertained, before they came to be wanted for the purposes of the building.
This last buoy was laid down in four fathoms water, with twelve fathoms of
chain, at the distance of about ninety fathoms, in a N.E. direction from the
rock. The other three buoys were respectively moored at greater distances
from the rock, in depths varying from seven to eleven fathoms, the
mushroom anchors lying on a hard rocky bottom.

As before noticed, the work could not be carried on by
Floating-Light rides torch-light with any degree of safety, till the Beacon
out a heavy gale of
wind. was erected, and the tide fell rather late for landing this
evening. Although the weather would have admitted of
this, yet the swell of the sea, observable in the morning, still continued to
increase. It was so far fortunate that a landing was not attempted, for at 8
o’clock the wind shifted to E. SE. and at 10 it had become a hard gale,
when fifty fathoms of the floating-light’s hempen cable were veered out.
The gale still increasing, the ship rolled and laboured excessively, and at
midnight eighty fathoms of cable were veered out; while the sea continued
to strike the vessel with a degree of force which had not before been
experienced.
During the last night there was little rest on board of the
Sunday, 6th. Pharos, and day-light, though anxiously wished for,
brought no relief, as the gale continued with unabated
violence. The sea struck so hard upon the vessel’s bows, that it rose in great
quantities, or in “green seas,” as the sailors termed it, which were carried by
the wind as far aft as the quarter-deck, and not unfrequently over the stern
of the ship altogether. It fell occasionally so heavily on the skylight of the
writer’s cabin, though so far aft as to be within five feet of the helm, that the
glass was broken to pieces before the dead-light could be got into its place,
so that the water poured down in great quantities. In shutting out the water,
the admission of light was prevented, and in the morning all continued in
the most comfortless state of darkness. About 10 o’clock a. m., the wind
shifted to NE., and blew, if possible, harder than before, and it was
accompanied by a much heavier swell of sea; when it was judged advisable
to give the ship more cable. In the course of the gale, the part of the cable in
the hause-hole had been so often shifted, that nearly the whole length of one
of her hempen cables, of 120 fathoms, had been veered out, besides the
chain-moorings. The cable for its preservation, was also carefully served or
wattled with pieces of canvass round the windlass, and with leather well
greased in the hause-hole. In this state things remained during the whole
day. Every sea which struck the vessel,—and the seas followed each other
in close succession,—causing her to shake, and all on board occasionally to
tremble. At each of these strokes of the sea, the rolling and pitching of the
vessel ceased for a time, and her motion was felt as if she had either broke
adrift before the wind, or were in the act of sinking; but when another sea

came, she ranged up against it with great force, and this became the regular
intimation of our being still riding at anchor.
About 11 o’clock, the writer, with some difficulty, got
State of the vessel
during the gale.
out of bed, but in attempting to dress, he was thrown
twice upon the floor, at the opposite side of the cabin.
In an undressed state, he made shift to get about half way up the
companion-stairs, with an intention to observe the state of the sea and of the
ship upon deck, but he no sooner looked over the companion, than a heavy
sea struck the vessel, which fell on the quarter-deck, and rushed down stairs
into the officers’ cabin, in so considerable a quantity, that it was found
necessary to lift one of the scuttles in the floor, to let the water into the
limbers of the ship, as it dashed from side to side in such a manner, as to
run into the lower tier of beds. Having been foiled in this attempt, and being
completely wetted, he again, got below and went to bed. In this state of the
weather the seamen had to move about the necessary or indispensable
duties of the ship, with the most cautious use both of hands and feet, while
it required all the art of the landsman to keep within the precincts of his
bed. The writer even found himself so much tossed about, that it became
necessary, in some measure, to shut himself in bed, in order to avoid being
thrown into the floor. Indeed, such was the motion of the ship, that it
seemed wholly impracticable to remain in any other than a lying posture.
On deck the most stormy aspect presented itself; while below all was wet
and comfortless.
About 2 o’clock p. m., a great alarm was given throughout the ship, from the
effects of a very heavy sea which struck her, and almost filled the waist,
pouring down into the births below, through every chink and crevice of the
hatches and sky-lights. From the motion of the vessel being thus suddenly
deadened or checked, and from the flowing in of the water above, it is
believed there was not an individual on board who did not think, at the
moment, that the vessel had foundered, and was in the act of sinking. The
writer could withstand this no longer, and as soon as she again began to
range to the sea, he determined to make another effort to get upon deck. In
the first instance, however, he groped his way in darkness from his own
cabin through the births of the officers, where all was quietness. He next
entered the galley and other compartments occupied by the artificers: here
also all was shut up in darkness, the fire having been drowned out in the

early part of the gale: several of the artificers were employed in prayer,
repeating psalms, and other devotional exercises in a full tone of voice:
others protesting, that if they should fortunately get once more on shore, no
one should ever see them afloat again. With the assistance of the landing-
master, the writer made his way holding on step by step, among the
numerous impediments which lay in the way. Such was the creaking noise
of the bulk-heads or partitions, the dashing of the water, and the whistling
noise of the winds, that it was hardly possible to break in upon such a
confusion of sounds. In one or two instances, anxious and repeated inquiries
were made by the artificers, as to the state of things upon deck, to which the
Captain made the usual answer, that it could not blow long in this way, and
that we must soon have better weather. The next birth in succession, moving
forward in the ship, was that allotted for the seamen. Here the scene was
considerably different. Having reached the middle of this darksome birth,
without its inmates being aware of any intrusion, the writer had the
consolation of remarking, that although they talked of bad weather, and the
cross accidents of the sea, yet the conversation was carried on in that sort of
tone and manner which bespoke an ease and composure of mind, highly
creditable to them, and pleasing to him. The writer immediately accosted
the seamen about the state of the ship. To these inquiries they replied, that
the vessel being light, and having but little hold of the water, no top rigging,
with excellent ground-tackle, and every thing being fresh and new, they felt
perfect confidence in their situation.
It being impossible to open any of the hatches in the fore part of the ship, in
communicating with the deck, the watch was changed by passing through
the several births to the companion-stair leading to the quarter-deck. The
writer, therefore, made the best of his way aft, and on a second attempt to
look out, he succeeded, and saw indeed an astonishing sight. The seas, or
waves, appeared to be ten or fifteen feet in height of unbroken water, and
every approaching billow seemed as if it would overwhelm our vessel, but
she continued to rise upon the waves, and to fall between the seas in a very
wonderful manner. It seemed to be only those seas which caught her in the
act of rising, which struck her with so much violence, and threw such
quantities of water aft. On deck there was only one solitary individual
looking out, to give the alarm, in the event of the ship breaking from her
moorings. The seaman on watch continued only two hours; he who kept
watch at this time, was a tall slender man of a black complexion; he had no

great coat nor over-all of any kind, but was simply dressed in his ordinary
jacket and trowsers: his hat was tied under his chin with a napkin, and he
stood aft the foremast, to which he had lashed himself with a gasket or
small rope round his waist, to prevent his falling upon deck, or being
washed overboard. When the writer looked up, he appeared to smile, which
afforded a farther symptom of the confidence of the crew in their ship. This
person on the watch was as completely wetted as if he had been drawn
through the sea, which was given as a reason for his not putting on a great
coat, that he might wet as few of his clothes as possible, and have a dry
shift when he went below. Upon deck, every thing that was moveable was
out of sight, having either been stowed below, previous to the gale, or been
washed overboard. Some trifling parts of the quarter boards were damaged
by the breach of the sea; and one of the boats upon deck was about one-
third full of water, the oyle-hole or drain having been accidentally stopped
up,—and part of her gunwale had received considerable injury. These
observations were hastily made, and not without occasionally shutting the
companion, or covering up the stair-case, to avoid being wetted by the
successive seas which broke over the bows, and fell upon different parts of
the deck, according to the impetus with which the waves struck the vessel.
By this time it was about 3 o’clock in the afternoon, and the gale, which had
now continued with unabated force for 27 hours, had not the least
appearance of going off.
In the dismal prospect of undergoing another night like
Consultation about
the probable event of
the last, and being in imminent hazard of parting from
her breaking adrift. our cable, the writer thought it necessary to advise with
the master and officers of the ship as to the probable
event of the vessel’s drifting from her moorings. They severally gave it as
their opinion, that we had now every chance of riding out the gale, which,
in all probability, could not continue with the same fury many hours longer;
and that even if she should part from her anchor, the storm-sails had been
laid to hand, and could be bent in a very short time. They further stated, that
from the direction of the wind being NE., she would sail up the Firth of
Forth to Leith Roads. But if this should appear doubtful, after passing the
Island and Light of May, it might be advisable at once to steer for
Tyningham Sands, on the western side of Dunbar, and there run the vessel
ashore. If this should happen at the time of high-water, or during the ebbing
of the tide, they were of opinion, from the flatness and strength of the

floating-light, that no danger would attend her taking the ground, even with
a very heavy sea. The writer seeing the confidence which these gentlemen
possessed with regard to the situation of things, and their knowledge and
ability, should the ship break adrift, found himself as much relieved with
this conversation, as he had previously been with the seeming indifference
of the forecastle-men, and the smile of the watch upon deck, though
literally lashed to the foremast. From this time he felt himself almost
perfectly at ease; at any rate he was entirely resigned to the ultimate result.
About 6 o’clock in the evening, the ship’s company was
The gale takes off.
heard moving upon deck, which, on the present
occasion, was rather the cause of alarm. The writer
accordingly rung his bell to know what was the matter, when he was
informed by the steward, that the weather looked considerably better, and
that the men upon deck were endeavouring to ship the smoke-funnel of the
galley, that the people might get some meat. This was a more favourable
account than had been anticipated. During the last twenty-one hours he
himself had not only had nothing to eat, but he had almost never passed a
thought on the subject. Upon the mention of a change of weather, he sent
the steward to learn how the artificers felt, and on his return he stated that
they now seemed to be all very happy, since the cook had begun to light the
galley-fire, and make preparations for the suet-pudding of Sunday, which
was the only dish to be attempted for the mess, from the ease with which it
could both be cooked and served up.
The principal change felt upon the ship, as the wind abated, was her
increased rolling motion, but the pitching was much diminished, and now
hardly any sea came farther aft than the foremast; but she rolled so
extremely hard, as frequently to dip and take in water over the gunwales
and rails in the waist, though, as before noticed, she was in light ballast
trim. By 9 o’clock, all hands had been refreshed by the exertions of the
cook and steward, and were happy in the prospect of the worst of the gale
being over. The usual complement of men was also now set on watch, and
more quietness was experienced throughout the ship. Although the previous
night had been a very restless one, it had not the effect of inducing repose in
the writer’s birth on the succeeding night, for having been so much tossed
about in bed, during the last thirty hours, he found no easy spot to turn to,

and his body was all sore to the touch, which ill accorded with the
unyielding materials with which his bed-place was surrounded.
This morning about 8 o’clock, the writer was agreeably
Monday, 7th.
surprised to see the scuttle of his cabin sky-light
removed, and the bright rays of the sun admitted.
Appearance of the sea Although the ship continued to roll excessively, and the
upon the Bell Rock.
sea was still running very high, yet the ordinary
business on board seemed to be going forward on deck. It was impossible to
steady a telescope, so as to look minutely at the progress of the waves, and
trace their breach upon the Bell Rock, but the height to which the cross-
running waves rose in sprays, when they met each other, was truly grand,
and the continued roar and noise of the sea was very perceptible to the ear.
To estimate the height of the sprays at forty or fifty feet, would surely be
within the mark. Those of the workmen who were not much afflicted with
sea-sickness, came upon deck, and the wetness below being dried up, the
cabins were again brought into a habitable state. Every one seemed to meet
as if after a long absence, congratulating his neighbour upon the return of
good weather. Little could be said as to the comfort of the vessel, but after
riding out such a gale, no one felt the least doubt or hesitation as to the
safety and good condition of her moorings. The master and mate were
extremely anxious, however, to heave in the hempen cable, and see the state
of the clinch or iron ring of the chain-cable. But the vessel rolled at such a
rate, that the seamen could not possibly keep their feet at the windlass, nor
work the hand-spokes, though it had been several times attempted since the
gale took off.
About 12 noon, however, the vessel’s motion was
Floating-Light breaks
adrift.
observed to be considerably less, and the sailors were
enabled to walk upon deck with some degree of
freedom. But, to the astonishment of every one, it was soon discovered that
the floating-light was adrift! The windlass was instantly manned, and the
men soon gave out that there was no strain upon the cable. The mizzen sail,
which was bent for the occasional purpose of making the vessel ride more
easily to the tide, was immediately set, and the other sails were also hoisted
in a short time, when, in no small consternation, we bore away, about one
mile to the south-westward of the former station, and there let go the best
bower anchor and cable in twenty fathoms water, to ride until the swell of

the sea should fall, when it might be practicable to grapple for the
moorings, and find a better anchorage for the ship.
As soon as the deck could be cleared, the cable-end was
Cable supposed to
have been cut by a
hove up, which had parted at the distance of about fifty
piece of wreck. fathoms from the chain-moorings. On examining the
cable, it was found to be considerably chafed, but
where the separation took place, it appeared to be worn through, or cut
shortly off. How to account for this would be difficult, as the ground,
though rough and gravelly, did not, after much sounding, appear to contain
any irregular parts. It was therefore conjectured, that the cable must have
hooked some piece of wreck, as it did not appear, from the state of the wind
and tide, that the vessel could have fouled her anchor, when she veered
round with the wind, which had shifted, in the course of the night, from NE.
to N.NW. Be this as it may, it was a circumstance quite out of the power of
man to prevent, as, until the ship drifted, it was found impossible to heave
up the cable. But what ought to have been the feeling of thankfulness to that
Providence which regulates and appoints the lot of man, when it is
considered, that if this accident had happened during the storm, or in the
night after the wind had shifted, the floating-light must inevitably have
gone ashore upon the Bell Rock. In short, it is hardly possible to conceive
any case more awfully distressing than our situation would have been, or
one more disastrous to the important undertaking in which we were
engaged.
In the present untoward state of things, the writer had chiefly to regret the
necessity of making a permanent change in the position of the moorings of
the floating-light, after her station had been publicly advertised, and within
a week of the time of exhibiting the light. It had also become more evident
that this vessel could not be continued as a tender or store-ship for the work.
The object of consideration, therefore, was to place her in a situation where
she would be most useful to shipping. It was evident that she must now be
stationed at about double her former distance from the rock, or, instead of
one mile, that she must be moored upwards of two miles from it, on ground
formerly ascertained to have been good, but considered too distant from the
operations.
In the evening the Smeaton came off from Arbroath, with provisions and
necessaries for the work. There being little wind, and a heavy swell in the

sea, it was not safe that the vessels should come in
Difficulty of manning
contact with each other. Mr Macurich, the mate, who
the Floating-light.
came within hail, in the Smeaton’s boat, informed us,
that two seamen had come off to make up the complement of the crew of
the floating-light, and that they would be brought on board the first
opportunity. From the manner in which this address was made, and the
enquiry as to how we rode out the gale, it was evident that the crew of the
Smeaton were not aware that the floating-light had shifted her place; nor,
indeed, was this at all obvious, unless by a particular observation made by
the mariner’s compass, in reference to the position of the rock.
The peculiarity of this service rendered it difficult to procure good seamen
to embark in it, and the original crew dropped off one after another as the
winter season began to advance; for as yet our naval heroes had not shewn
the possibility of remaining for months together, even off an enemy’s coast.
It was therefore found to be an extremely difficult matter to get the crew of
the floating-light recruited from time to time; and, under the perplexity of
our present situation, it was some alleviation to be told that there were men
voluntarily offering their services.
In the course of this day the wind had veered from N.NW. to NE., but the
weather was mild, and the sea had fallen considerably, so that the boat came
alongside with the two seamen, and a supply of necessaries. The Smeaton
was then dispatched to Arbroath for another set of moorings for the
floating-light, in case of our not finding those from which she had drifted.
Letters were also dispatched to the Light-house Board, intimating the
particulars of the floating-light’s new ground, that additional notice might
be given to shipping.
The weather continued to be extremely agreeable,
Wednesday, 9th.
though the wind kept shifting about. Having got every
thing in readiness for moving to the new station, which
Floating-light had again been carefully sounded, the floating-light was
anchored in her new
station. got under way,—which the author had fondly hoped
never to have seen, till after her purpose as a temporary
light had been supplied by a permanent building upon the Bell Rock. At 9
o’clock a. m. the best bower anchor was let go upon the new ground, in
twenty fathoms water, on clean sand mixed with fine silt or mud, appearing

to be the deposited matters borne along by the currents from the river Tay;
the Bell Rock bearing SE. ½ S. distant about 2½ miles.
The Smeaton returned to Arbroath, after landing her
Monday, 14th.
dispatches; but the wind and the swell of the sea having
again increased, she was obliged to remain in port till
It is found the 14th. As the floating-light still rode at single anchor,
impracticable to land
to-day. it was often an anxious wish to have her once more
properly fixed with chain moorings; but, as yet, no
opportunity had occurred for recovering the old chain, and it took some
time to prepare a new one. The Smeaton having returned from Arbroath this
morning, the writer went on board of her, carrying with him all the
artificers. At 6 an attempt was made to land, but the sea ran so heavily, and
the breakers rushed with such fury in every direction, that after rowing all
around the rock, the boats were obliged to return without success. It
deserves remark, however, that this was the first attempt to land this season,
in which it had been found impracticable, after actually embarking in the
boats.
This morning at 5 a. m., the bell rung as a signal for
Tuesday, 15th.
landing upon the rock, a sound which, after a lapse of
ten days, it is believed was welcomed by every one on
State of matters at the board. There being a heavy breach of sea at the eastern
rock, after a lapse of
ten days. creek, we landed, though not without difficulty, on the
western side, every one seeming more eager than
another to get upon the rock, and never did hungry men sit down to a hearty
meal with more appetite than the artificers began to pick the dulse from the
rocks. This marine plant had the effect of reviving the sickly, and seemed to
be no less relished by those who were more hardy.
While the water was ebbing, and the men were roaming in quest of their
favourite morsel, the writer was examining the effects of the storm upon the
forge, and loose apparatus left upon the rock. The six large blocks of granite
which had been landed, by way of experiment, on the 1st instant, were now
removed from their places, and, by the force of the sea, thrown over a rising
ledge into a hole at the distance of twelve or fifteen paces from the place on
which they had been landed. This was a pretty good evidence, both of the
violence of the storm and the agitation of the sea upon the rock. The safety
of the smith’s forge was always an object of essential regard. The ash-pan

of the hearth or fire-place, with its weighty cast-iron back, had been washed
from their places of supposed security: the chains of attachment had been
broken, and these ponderous articles were found at a very considerable
distance, in a hole on the western side of the rock; while the tools and picks
of the Aberdeen masons were scattered about in every direction. It is,
however, remarkable, that not a single article was ultimately lost. A
mushroom-anchor, weighing about 22 cwt., had been driven from its station
at some distance, and thrown upon the rock, being found in one of the
landing creeks. The floating-buoy being still attached to it, had received no
material damage, though it had been chafed and was water-logged. This
buoy, with its moorings, consisting of 24 fathoms of chain, and the anchor,
had been given up as lost, ever since the gale; but just as the boats were
about to leave the rock, they were fortunately observed between two ledges
of rock, by one of the seamen.
After having been two hours and a half upon the rock
Work, this tide,
this morning, boats left it at a quarter past 8. At half-
continues only for one
hour. past 6 p. m., they again returned; but the smith having
fallen into the water in landing, got the tinder so wetted,
that he could not strike fire, and the work was left off at 7, after one hour’s
work, for want of sharp tools.—The site of the beacon being now prepared,
and the stanchion-holes excavated, the mode of employing the artificers
was reversed, only four being occupied at the beacon works, and twelve in
preparing the foundation of the light-house.
This being the night on which the floating-light was
Floating-light first advertised to be lighted, it was accordingly exhibited, to
exhibited.
the great joy of every one. For, besides the benefit to be
derived by shipping in general, from this temporary light, it was also to be
of great service to the operations at the Bell Rock, as it became a point of
reference for the conveniency and safety of the light-house vessels, either in
riding at the buoys, or in cruising about the rock. The event of lighting up
this ship, was, therefore, ushered in with three hearty cheers, and a dram
was served out to all hands.
The weather continuing to be moderate, with gentle
Wednesday, 16th.
breezes from NW. to N.NE., this morning the work
commenced at the rock at half-past 6, and the boats left

it again at a quarter from 9, after the artificers had been at work two hours
and a half.
The writer was made happy to-day, by the return of the
Light-house Yacht
becomes a Tender to
Light-house Yacht, from a voyage to the Northern
the works. Light-houses. She had sailed from the Bell Rock on the
5th of last month for the Orkneys, and had passed the
Western Islands to the Clyde, returning to the eastern coast by the Forth and
Clyde Canal, after having discharged stores at the several Light-houses in
her track. The arrival of this vessel was a great relief, as she brought a set of
moorings with her for the floating-light, which still rode at single anchor.
Having immediately removed on board of this fine vessel of eighty-one tons
register, the artificers gladly followed, for, though they found themselves
more pinched for accommodation on board of the Yacht, and still more so in
the Smeaton; yet they greatly preferred either of these to the Pharos or
floating-light, on account of her rolling motion, though in all respects fitted
up for their conveniency.
The writer called them to the quarter-deck, and
Artificers agree to
remain at the rock
informed them that having been one month afloat, in
after their engagementterms of their agreement, they were now at liberty to
had expired. return to the work-yard at Arbroath, if they preferred
this to continuing at the Bell Rock. But they replied,
that, in the prospect of soon getting the beacon erected upon the rock, and
having made a change from the floating-light, they were now perfectly
reconciled to their situation, and would remain afloat till the end of the
working season. This was considered a matter of the greatest importance to
the success of the work; for, from the circumstances of the bad weather, and
the drifting of the floating-light, it seemed extremely doubtful but the whole
of the workmen might have been induced to go on shore, which would have
deterred others from embarking in this perilous service, at so advanced a
period of the season. At all events, it must have required no small trouble to
have brought a new set of men to expertness in the minutiæ of the traffic in
boats, and getting in and out of the vessels. Of those who had originally
come off to the work on the 17th of August, only one man, already alluded
to, who was a great martyr to sea-sickness, had returned to the work-yard.
The wind was at NE. this morning, and though there
Thursday, 17th.
were only light airs, yet there was a pretty heavy swell

coming ashore upon the rock. The boats landed at half-
Accident happens to past 7 o’clock a. m., at the creek on the southern side of
one of the boats.
the rock, marked Port Hamilton in Plate VI., which to-
day was found to be the most accessible landing-place. But as one of the
boats was in the act of entering this creek, the seaman at the bow oar, who
had just entered the service, having inadvertently expressed some fear, from
a heavy sea which came rolling towards the boat, and one of the artificers
having at the same time looked round and missed a stroke with his oar, such
a preponderance was thus given to the rowers upon the opposite side, that
when the wave struck the boat, it threw her upon a ledge of shelving rocks,
where the water left her, and she having kanted to seaward, the next wave
completely filled her with water. After making considerable efforts, the boat
was again got afloat in the proper track of the creek, so that we landed
without any other accident than a complete ducking. This accident caused
us to lose some time; but, as the boats could not conveniently leave the rock
till flood-tide, and there being no possibility of getting a shift of clothes, the
artificers began with all speed to work, so as to bring themselves into heat,
while the writer, and his assistants, kept as much as possible in motion.
Having remained more than an hour upon the rock, the boats left it at half-
past 9; and after getting on board, the writer recommended to the artificers,
as the best mode of getting into a state of comfort, to strip off their wet
clothes, and go to bed for an hour or two. No farther inconveniency was
felt, and no one seemed to complain of the affection called “catching cold.”
It was a standing order in the landing department, that every man should
use his greatest exertions, in giving the boats sufficient force or velocity to
preserve their steerage-way in entering the respective creeks at the rock,
that the contending seas might not have the command of the boat at places
where the free use of the oars could not be had, on account of the
surrounding rocks. The late accident, accordingly, put all hands more upon
their guard, as such an occurrence might have proved fatal to all on board,
under a very slight change of circumstances.
The first object to be accomplished, with the assistance
Friday, 18th.
of the Light-house Yacht, was to get the floating-light
secured at her new station, an operation which required
Floating-light moored the finest of weather. To-day, the wind was at NE., and
in her new station.
although moderate, it was, of all others, most dreaded at

the Bell Rock, the heavy gale of the 6th instant having been from this
direction. The writer, however, judged it advisable to proceed with the
laying down of the new moorings, and in case of any accident by the
slipping of the chain, as formerly, the artificers, instead of going to the rock
this tide, were kept on board, that the seamen and all hands might be on the
spot to render assistance. These new moorings consisted of 40 fathoms of
chain, made from iron-bars of one inch square, with a cast-iron mushroom-
anchor, weighing 1 ton 1 cwt. 2 qrs. 4 lb. This anchor and chain, were let
down in a depth of twenty-one fathoms, the Bell Rock being from the new
station SE. ½ S., distant two and a half miles; Redhead N. by E., distant ten
miles; Arbroath N.NW., distant about ten miles; Fifeness SW. by W., distant
about eleven miles, and Isle of May SW. by S., distant sixteen miles. The
moorings having been laid down on this spot, a buoy was placed upon
them. The Yacht then took the floating-light in tow to her new station,
where she was made fast to the chain, with a new cable measuring sixteen
inches in circumference. This business was successfully accomplished at
about 2 o’clock p. m., after six hours of very hard work.
The first cables of the floating-light were of patent cordage, made of the
very best materials, and most beautifully laid by machinery. But the sailors
complained that these ropes were so stiff and unpliable, that they could
neither be got stowed in the hold, nor run freely out of the hause-holes.
These difficulties were also more felt with the patent laid cables, after the
weather became somewhat cold. It was, therefore, found necessary to get a
new cable, laid in the ordinary way, for the winter months.
Another important occurrence, connected with the
Smeaton arrives with
the beams of the
operations of this season, was the arrival of the
Beacon in tow. Smeaton at 4 p. m., having in tow the six principal
beams of the Beacon-house, together with all the
stanchions and other work on board for fixing it on the rock. The mooring
of the floating-light was a great point gained, but, in the erection of the
beacon at this late period of the season, new difficulties presented
themselves. The success of such an undertaking, at any season, was
precarious; because a single day of bad weather occurring, before the
necessary fixtures could be made, might sweep the whole apparatus from
the rock. Notwithstanding these difficulties, the writer had determined to
make the trial, although he could almost have wished, upon looking at the

state of the clouds, and the direction of the wind, that the apparatus for the
beacon had been still in the work-yard.
The weather to-day did not prognosticate any thing
Saturday, 19th.
very favourable; the wind, though in light breezes,
continued at NE., and it was occasionally almost calm.
Preparations for The main beams of the Beacon were made up in two
erecting them.
separate rafts, fixed with bars and bolts of iron. One of
these rafts, not being immediately wanted, was left astern of the floating-
light, and the other was kept in tow by the Smeaton, at the buoy nearest to
the rock. The Light-house Yacht rode at another buoy, with all hands on
board that could possibly be spared out of the floating-light; including also
ten additional men, as carpenters, smiths and sailors, brought off for this
operation. The party of artificers and seamen which landed this morning on
the Bell Rock, counted altogether forty in number. At half-past 8 o’clock, a
Derrick or mast of thirty feet in height, was erected and properly supported
with guy-ropes, for suspending the block for raising the first principal beam
of the beacon; and a winch-machine was also bolted down to the rock for
working the purchase-tackle. The necessary blocks and tackle were likewise
laid to hand and properly arranged. The artificers and seamen were
severally allotted in squads to different stations; some were to bring the
principal beams to hand, others were to work the tackles, while a third set
had the charge of the iron-stanchions, bolts, and wedges, so that the whole
operation of raising the beams, and fixing them to the rock, might go
forward in such a manner that some provision might be made, in every
stage of the work, for securing what had been accomplished, in case of a
change of weather.
Upon raising the derrick, all hands on the rock spontaneously gave three
hearty cheers, as a favourable omen of our future exertions in pointing out
more permanently the position of the rock. Even to this single spar of
timber, could it be preserved, a drowning man might lay hold. When the
Smeaton drifted on the 2d of this month, such a spar would have been
sufficient to save us, till she could have come to our relief. These
preparations for the erection of the Beacon having been previously made,
the writer collected the heads of the several departments on board of the
Light-house Yacht, particularly the foremen of the builders and joiners, and
the masters and mates of the vessels. Here the operation of raising and

fixing the first four beams was again talked over and arranged, as, from the
very limited period of working on the rock, every thing required to be
performed in the most prompt and systematic manner, as previously settled.
The wind this morning was variable, but the weather
Sunday, 20th.
continued extremely favourable for the operations
throughout the whole day. At 6 a. m. the boats were in
Four of the principal motion, and the raft, consisting of four of the six
beams erected.
principal beams of the Beacon-house, each measuring
about sixteen inches square, and fifty feet in length, was towed to the rock,
where it was anchored, that it might ground upon it as the water ebbed. At 7
a. m. the boats of the Floating-light, the Yacht, and the Smeaton, arrived at
the rock, when the work immediately commenced. The sailors and
artificers, including all hands to-day, counted no fewer than fifty-two, being
perhaps the greatest number of persons ever collected upon the Bell Rock.
It was early in the tide when the boats reached the rock, and the men
worked a considerable time up to their middle in water, every one being
more eager than his neighbour to be useful. Even the four artificers, who
had hitherto declined working on Sunday, were to-day most zealous in their
exertions; they had indeed become so convinced of the precarious nature
and necessity of the work, that they never afterwards absented themselves
from the rock on Sunday, when a landing was practicable.
Having made fast a piece of very good new line, at
Method of raising the
principal beams of the
about two thirds from the lower end of one of the
Beacon-house. beams, the purchase-tackle of the derrick was hooked
into the turns of the line, and it was speedily raised, by
the number of men on the rock, and the power of the winch tackle. When
this log was lifted to a sufficient height, its foot, or lower end, was stepped
into the spot which had been previously prepared for it. Two of the great
iron stanchions were then set into their respective holes, on each side of the
beam, when a rope was passed round them and the beam, to prevent it from
slipping, till it could be more permanently fixed. The derrick or upright spar
used for carrying the tackle to raise the first beam, was placed in such a
position as to become useful for supporting the upper end of it, which now
became, in its turn, the prop of the tackle for raising the second beam,
which was laid in such a position, that when hoisted up, its foot slipped into
its place, when it was, in like manner, lashed to its great iron stanchions on

each side. The first and second beams being lashed to one another at the
top, served as a pair of sheers, from which the purchase tackle was now
suspended, for raising the other two beams, which were also speedily got
into their places. The whole difficulty of this operation was in the raising
and propping of the first beam, which became a convenient derrick for
raising the second, these again a pair of sheers for lifting the third, and the
sheers a triangle for raising the fourth. Having thus got four of the six
principal beams set on end, it required a considerable degree of trouble to
get their upper ends to fit. Here they formed the apex of a cone, and were
all together mortised into a large piece of beechwood, and secured, for the
present, with ropes, in a temporary manner. During the short period of one
tide, all that could further be done for their security, was to put a single
screw-bolt through the great kneed bats or stanchions on each side of the
beams, and screw the nut home. In this manner each beam, with its
respective pair of bats, was fixed, besides being strongly bound together
with ropes.
While one set of the artificers were employed in this
Method of fixing the
great iron stanchions
operation, another fixed the great iron-stanchions into
into the rock. the rock, into which they were sunk to the depth of
about twenty inches. They were of a dove-tail or wedge
form, at the lower end, where they measured an inch and a half in thickness;
were about four inches in their medium breadth; and were let
perpendicularly into the rock, but kneed or bent to suit the angle which the
beams formed with it. These great bats or stanchions had much the figure
and appearance of a soldier’s musket; they were five feet in length, and
weighed about 140 lb. each. Instead of running the bat-holes full of melted
lead, as is common in operations of this kind, but which, in case of friction
or movement, is apt to be squeezed out of the holes, all the bats made use of
at the Bell Rock, as before noticed, were fixed by means of wedges. Several
of the artificers were therefore employed in wedging these stanchions first
with fir-timber, then with oak, and lastly with iron, driven into spaces left
for this purpose, between the bats and the rock. These wedges were driven
so firmly, that although the stanchions were the only fixture for this wooden
house, it had not been found necessary to drive any of the wedges a second
time.

In this manner these four principal beams were erected,
Have seven hours and left in a pretty secure state. It, however, required
work upon the rock.
the whole tide to get this much accomplished. Indeed,
the men had commenced during ebb-tide, while there was about two or
three feet water upon the site of the Beacon, and as the sea was smooth,
they continued the work equally long during flood-tide. Two of the boats
being left at the rock to take off the joiners, who were busily employed on
the upper parts till 2 o’clock p. m., this tide’s work may be said to have
continued for about seven hours, which was the longest that had hitherto
been got upon the rock by at least three hours.
When the first boats left the rock with the artificers employed on the lower
part of the work during the flood-tide, the Beacon had quite a novel
appearance. The beams erected, formed a common base of about thirty-
three feet, meeting at the top, which, independently of ulterior works, was
about forty-five feet above the rock, and here half a dozen of the artificers
were still at work. After clearing the rock, the boats made a stop, when three
hearty cheers were given, which were returned with equal good will by
those upon the Beacon, from the personal interest which every one felt in
the prosperity of this work, so intimately connected with his safety.
All hands having returned to their respective ships, they
All hands assemble to
prayers.
got a shift of dry clothes, and some refreshment. Being
Sunday, they were afterwards convened by signal on
board of the Light-house Yacht, when prayers were read; for every heart,
upon this occasion, felt gladness, and every mind was disposed to be
thankful for the happy and successful termination of the operations of this
day. The crews then returned to their respective ships, and as nothing
further could be done to the Beacon during the night tide, there was no
landing made in the evening.
The weather most fortunately continued favourable for
Monday 21st.
the operations, the wind being westerly, with fresh
breezes. The boats landed at half-past 7 a. m., the
number of persons on the rock being, as formerly, fifty-two; the work was
carried on till half-past 12, making four hours and a half upon the rock. The
remaining two principal beams were erected in the course of this tide,
which, with the assistance of those set up yesterday, was found to be a very
simple operation. In hoisting up the sixth and last log, however, and just

when it was about to be kanted into its place, the iron-hook of the principal
purchase-block gave way, and this great beam, measuring fifty feet in
length, fell upon the rock with a terrible crash; but what is not a little
wonderful, although there were fifty-two people engaged round the beacon,
yet not one was hurt in the slightest degree by its fall. The beam itself was
only a little shaken near the upper end, but was not materially damaged.
Another block was immediately hooked, in the place of that which had
failed, and the beam was got into its place without much delay. Every
possible exertion was now made to fix the lower ends of the beams to the
rock, by connecting them with their respective stanchions, while three
strong hoops of malleable iron were employed, for securing the whole in
one mass at the top.
The six principal beams of the beacon were thus secured, at least in a
temporary manner, in the course of two tides, or in the short space of about
eleven hours and a half. The only inconveniency attending this operation,
arose from the derrick for raising the first beam being rather too short. It
was only thirty feet in height, whereas it was found that it would have
answered better had it been about forty-five feet. We were also a good deal
troubled and perplexed with the logs afloat, from having the six principal
beams in two rafts: it would have been more convenient had they been
lashed together in pairs, and then rafted in one lot. The writer concludes,
upon the whole, that about eight hours only were actually employed in
raising the beams of the beacon, and fixing them in a temporary manner.
Such is the progress that may be made, when active hands and willing
minds set properly to work in operations of this kind.
Having now got the weighty part of this work over, and
Tuesday, 22d.
being thereby relieved of the difficulty both of landing
and victualling such a number of men, the Smeaton
Four of the supporting could now be spared, and she was accordingly
beams set up.
dispatched to Arbroath, for a supply of water and
provisions, and carried with her six of the artificers who could best be
spared. The wind to-day was due west, and blowing so fresh, that the boats
had some difficulty in landing the remaining thirty-six persons at 8 a. m.
who continued on the rock till half-past 12, having had four and a half hours
work. During this tide four of the struts, or supporting beams, were set up,
butting against the inside of four of the principal beams. These supports

were each about twenty feet in length, varying somewhat according to the
inequalities of the rock. At the foot they were fixed to the rock with
stanchions, similar to those of the principal beams, and at the top they were
connected with pieces of oak, strongly strapped with iron, collapsing
around the principal beams to which they were bolted.
Landed at half-past 9 this morning, and succeeded in
Wednesday, 23d.
getting up the two remaining supports, and in fixing
several of the bracing chains. But, instead of entering at
The boats have some present into any farther details about the several parts of
difficulty in leaving
the rock to-day. the beacon, it will be better to refer these to the letter-
press description of Plate VIII. After having been four
and a half hours at work on the rock to-day, the boats left it, though not
without considerable difficulty, as the wind had been blowing fresh all the
last night, and to-day it was shifting and veering about from N.W. to
N.N.E., which had already set up a pretty heavy sea. In going out of the
eastern harbour, the boat which the writer steered shipped a sea, that filled
her about one-third with water. She had also been hid for a short time, by
the waves breaking upon the rock, from the sight of the crew of the
preceding boat, who were much alarmed for our safety, imagining for a time
that she had gone down.
The Smeaton returned from Arbroath this afternoon, but
Shipping separated by
a gale.
there was so much sea that she could not be made fast
to her moorings; she therefore let go her small bower
anchor, in order to get a supply of provisions put on board of the Light-
house yacht, and receive other six of the artificers to carry ashore. But the
anchor was no sooner let go than it broke among the rocks, and the vessel
was obliged to return to Arbroath, without being able either to deliver the
provisions, or take the artificers on board. The Light-house yacht was also
soon obliged to follow her example, as the sea was breaking heavily over
her bows. After getting two reefs in the mainsail, and the third or storm-jib
set, the wind being SW., she beat to windward, though blowing a hard gale,
and got into St Andrew’s Bay, where we passed the night under the lee of
Fifeness. In these circumstances, it was impossible for the writer to divest
himself of much anxiety for the fate of the newly erected beacon, which
was still but imperfectly fixed to the rock.

At 2 o’clock this morning we were in St Andrew’s Bay,
Thursday, 24th. standing off and on shore, with strong gales of wind at
SW.; at 7 we were off the entrance of the Tay; at 8 stood
towards the rock, and at 10 passed to leeward of it, but could not attempt a
landing. The beacon, however, appeared to remain in good order, and by 6
p. m. the vessel had again beaten up to St Andrew’s Bay, and got into
somewhat smoother water for the night.
The wind still continues at SW., blowing very hard; at 7
Friday, 25th.
o’clock bore away for the Bell Rock, but finding a
heavy sea running on it, were unable to land. The
writer, however, had the satisfaction to observe, with his telescope, that
every thing about the beacon appeared entire, and although the sea had a
most frightful appearance, yet it was the opinion of every one, that, since
the erection of the beacon, the Bell Rock was divested of many of its
terrors, and, had it been possible to have got the boats hoisted out and
manned, it might have even been found practicable to land: the vessel was,
therefore, kept in the track of the rock, till it could be determined if a
landing might be effected with the afternoon’s tide. The Yacht, in the mean
time, stood towards the Redhead on the opposite shore, and at 5 p. m.
returned; but both the wind and sea had rather increased. At 6 it blew so
hard, that it was found necessary to strike the topmast and take in a third
reef of the mainsail, and under this low canvas we soon reached St
Andrew’s Bay, and got again under the lee of the land for the night. The
artificers being sea-hardy, were quite reconciled to their quarters on board
of the Light-house Yacht; but it is believed that hardly any consideration
would have induced them again to take up their abode in the floating-light.
In the course of the last night, the wind had shifted
Saturday, 26th.
from SW. to W. NW., with moderate weather. At day-
light, the Yacht steered towards the Bell Rock, and at 8
Land on the rock after a. m., made fast to her moorings; at 10, all hands, to the
an absence of four
days. amount of thirty, landed, when the writer had the
happiness to find that the beacon had withstood the
violence of the gale and the heavy breach of sea, every thing being found in
the same state in which it had been left on the 21st. The artificers were now
enabled to work upon the rock throughout the whole day, both at low and
high water, but it required the strictest attention to the state of the weather,

in case of their being overtaken with a gale, which might prevent the
possibility of getting them off the rock. To-day, one half of the artificers
remained on the beacon till half-past 6 p. m., having been eight hours and a
half at work upon it.
Two somewhat memorable circumstances in the annals
Smith’s forge
removed from the
of the Bell Rock attended the operations of this day;
rock to the Beacon. one was the removal of Mr James Dove, the foreman
smith, with his apparatus, from the rock to the upper
part of the beacon, where the forge was now erected on a temporary
platform, laid on the cross beams or upper framing. The other was, the
artificers having dined for the first time upon the rock, their dinner being
cooked on board of the Yacht, and sent to them by one of the boats. But
what afforded the greatest happiness and relief, was the removal of the large
bellows, which had all along been a source of much trouble and perplexity,
by their hampering and incommoding the boat which carried the smiths and
their apparatus. The men belonging to that boat were so delighted with this
occurrence, that while the bellows were in the act of being hoisted up to
their new station, they gave three such hearty cheers, from below, as
astonished and surprised those who were working the tackle on the beacon,
to such a degree, that, for a moment, they let the rope slip through their
hands, and had they not speedily caught hold again, this useful implement
might have been dashed to pieces,—which would have been a misfortune of
no small import, considering the state of the works at the present crisis.
It being now the period of neap-tides, other ten of the
Sunday 27th.
artificers were sent ashore to the work-yard at Arbroath,
which reduced our complement at the rock to twenty.
The boats landed the people this morning at 11, but the masons had only
about an hour’s work on the highest part of the foundation of the light-
house, which was only partially left by the water, the joiners and two
blacksmiths being busily employed in completing and securing the several
parts of the beacon, particularly in screwing the bolts of the stanchions and
bracing-chains, and in staying the lower part of the beams. They continued
at these operations till 6 o’clock p. m., having been nine hours upon the
rock.
The joiners and smiths were landed on the beacon at 7
Monday, 28th.
a. m., where they continued all day, and were brought

off again at 5 p. m. The Smeaton had just returned from
The writer sails forLeith, where she had been sent for sundry materials
Arbroath after having
been four weeks connected with the work. The joiners and smiths were
afloat. ten hours upon the rock to-day, which was the longest
period they had hitherto been upon it at any one time.
They now had their dinner regularly sent to the beacon, and could continue
at work throughout the whole day, while the weather was sufficiently
moderate to admit of the boats plying to and from the rock. To-day the
water did not leave it, and it was now the seventh day since the lowest part
of the foundation or site of the light-house had been seen. The Beacon being
now in a comparative state of security, the Smeaton was left at the rock as a
tender, and the writer sailed in the Light-house yacht, this afternoon, to
inquire into the operations of the work-yard at Arbroath. After setting sail,
and looking back upon the Bell Rock, it was quite astonishing to observe
the change in the appearance of things, which the erection of these beams
had produced. To shipping they became an excellent beacon; while they
induced the greatest confidence of safety in all who were actively engaged
in this work. The vessel anchored in the bay of Arbroath, at a late hour,
when the writer landed, for the first time since the commencement of the
working season, on the 17th of August; after having been between four and
five weeks afloat.
This morning was occupied in going over the work-
Tuesday, 29th.
yard with Mr David Logan, clerk of works, who had
charge of the hewing department. The first entire course
of the building was now partly laid upon the platform: a few stones of the
second course, and several of the higher courses, were also in progress. But
from the backward state of the quarries in the production of stones of large
dimensions, it was found necessary to make some additional exertions for
procuring a more regular supply, and a person was therefore dispatched to
the quarries of Aberdeen and Mylnefield for this purpose.
Having made some further arrangements in the work-
Sails again for the
Bell Rock.
yard, the writer again embarked in the Yacht, and sailed
for the Bell Rock this forenoon, carrying with him Mr
Peter Logan, the foreman builder, and the artificers who had formerly been
at the rock; but who had expressly stipulated that they were not to be
obliged to continue longer afloat than the approaching spring-tides, when it

was expected the Beacon works would be completely secured for the
winter. In the early part of this day, there was little or no wind, but in the
afternoon it came to blow very hard from south by west, and in the evening
it had increased to a hard gale. Having stood off to the Bell Rock, and put
the vessel under low canvas, we hailed the floating-light, and found her
labouring very hard with sixty fathoms of cable out. We then stretched to
the southern side of the Bell Rock, when the vessel was laid to; but the
Smeaton, which was also in company, being a small vessel, and much
hampered with boats, was not in a condition to keep at sea, and as soon as
the gale got up she stood in for Arbroath, and landed Mr Francis Watt, the
foreman-joiner, and the artificers under his charge, to wait a favourable
change of weather.
This morning it was calculated, by Mr Gloag, the
Wednesday, 30th. commander of the Light-house Yacht, that she had
drifted about thirty miles, in a SE. direction from the
The vessels again Redhead. About mid-day, the wind shifted to NW., and
separated by a gale.
we steered for St Abb’s Head, which was seen about
twilight in the evening, and our course was directed across the Firth of
Forth. When in the act of putting about the ship, the stem boat was very
nearly lost, having been struck by a heavy sea which unhooked the fore-
tackle. At midnight we got within a few miles of the light of May, and soon
afterwards found smooth water in St Andrew’s Bay, where we tacked, or
“stood to and again,” as the sailors term it, all night.
This morning the wind shifted to NE. with moderate
1807, October.
breezes. In the course of the forenoon we beat towards
the Bell Rock, and sailed round it, when every thing
October, Thursday appeared to be in good order about the beacon. Having
1st.
no shelter in St Andrew’s Bay with this wind, the Yacht
stood alternately towards Arbroath and the Bell Rock for the night. The
floating-light being a most excellent guide for putting about, before the
vessel got too near to the rock. The older sailors on board of the Yacht, on
this occasion, made frequent observations as to the utility of this temporary
light, expressing their admiration at the change of circumstances which had
led to their cruising with so much confidence, both by day and night, in the
immediate vicinity of this dangerous rock.

The wind having come round to NW. with fresh
Friday 2d. breezes, it soon run down the north-easterly swell of the
sea, and at half-past 1 p. m., all hands, to the amount of
Effect a landing at the twenty, landed on the rock, though not without
rock.
difficulty. Twelve of the masons were engaged during
three hours, or till 4 o’clock, in excavating the foundation of the light-
house, while the eight joiners and smiths, who also had arrived with the
Smeaton, were employed at the works of the beacon for nine hours and a
half; and having continued at work by torchlight, they left the rock at half-
past 10 o’clock p. m.
On carefully examining into the state of things at the
State of the Beacon
after the late gale.
Bell Rock, after the late gale, the writer had the
satisfaction to find, that the principal beams of the
beacon, with their diagonal supports, cross-beams and stanchions
connecting them to the rock, had not the smallest appearance of working or
shifting, as mechanics express it. One of the tie chains had indeed given
way, and hung loosely from the beacon, and one of the bracing screws had
wrought off its nut. This was an evidence that the principal beams from the
elasticity of the timber, had been acted upon by the sea, and that they still
required some additional stay in the middle. Such, however, were the
fixtures of the beacon to the rock with the iron stanchions, and its
connection at the top, where it was strongly girt with circular hoops of iron,
that it was perfectly firm at both extremities. The central support was
intended to be effected by means of strong bars of iron, stretching between
the principal beams; but the season was now too far advanced for such an
undertaking, and therefore, the bracing-chains, represented in Plate VIII.,
were attached for the present.
It was not a little remarkable, that notwithstanding the impression which the
sea had produced during the late gale, in shaking the beacon, so as to break
one of the tie-chains, unscrew one of the bracing-bolts, and in shaking
several of the smith’s tools from his hearth on the platform at the top, yet
these tools, and other small articles of iron, were all found lying on the
rock. The nut of the bolt, for example, was got immediately under the chain
from which it had dropped. Several other striking examples of this kind
were observable, shewing how little will shelter articles somewhat
ponderous in themselves, when they lie at a considerable depth in water.

The wind being west to-day, the weather was very
Saturday 3d. favourable for the operations at the rock, and during the
morning and evening tides, with the aid of torch-light,
Working hours greatly the masons had seven hours’ work upon the site of the
extended.
building. The smiths and joiners, who landed at half-
past 6 a. m., did not leave the rock till a quarter past 11 p. m., having been at
work, with little intermission, for sixteen hours and three quarters. When
the water left the rock, they were employed at the lower parts of the beacon,
and as the tide rose or fell, they shifted the place of their operations. From
these exertions, the fixing and securing of the beacon made rapid
advancement, as the men were now landed in the morning, and remained
throughout the day. But, as a sudden change of weather might have
prevented their being taken off at the proper time of tide, a quantity of bread
and water was always kept on the Beacon.
The wind was southerly during the fore part of the day,
Sunday 4th.
and towards evening it became quite calm. The boats
landed the artificers this morning at a quarter before 7
o’clock; when the masons had three and a half hours’ work at the
foundation of the building, but the spring-tides were now taking off; the
best of them having unfortunately been lost during the late gale. The smiths
and joiners, however, continued their operations throughout the whole of
the day, and did not leave the rock till half-past 12 at night.
During this period of working at the Beacon all the day, and often a great
part of the night, the writer was much on board of the Tender; but, while the
masons could work on the rock, and frequently also while it was covered by
the tide, he remained on the Beacon; especially during the night, as he made
a point of being on the rock to the latest hour, and was generally the last
person who stepped into the boat. He had laid this down as part of his plan
of procedure; and in this way had acquired, in the course of the first season,
a pretty complete knowledge and experience of what could actually be done
at the Bell Rock, under all circumstances of the weather. By this means also
his assistants, and the artificers and mariners, got into a systematic habit of
proceeding at the commencement of the work, which, it is believed,
continued throughout the whole of the operations.
The external part of the beacon was now finished, with its supports and
bracing-chains, and whatever else was considered necessary for its stability,

in so far as the season would permit; and although
Beacon works much was still wanting to complete this fabric, yet it
finished for the
season. was in such a state that it could be left without much
fear of the consequences of a storm. The painting of the
upper part was nearly finished this afternoon; and the Smeaton had brought
off a quantity of brush-wood and other articles, for the purpose of heating or
charring the lower part of the principal beams, before being laid over with
successive coats of boiling pitch, to the height of from eight to twelve feet,
or as high as the rise of spring-tides. A small flag-staff having also been
erected to-day, a flag was displayed for the first time from the Beacon, by
which its perspective effect was greatly improved. On this, as on all like
occasions at the Bell Rock, three hearty cheers were given; and the steward
served out a dram of rum to all hands, while the Light-house Yacht,
Smeaton, and Floating-light, hoisted their colours in compliment to the
Erection.
To-day the wind was westerly, and the weather was
Monday 5th.
very wet; but this was thought nothing of at the Bell
Rock, so long as the wind kept moderate. At a quarter
past 8 a. m. the boats landed the artificers. The masons had only 2½ hours’
work at the site of the building, owing to the smallness of the ebb-tide; but
the joiners and smiths continued their operations till half-past 11 p. m., and
were consequently 15 hours and a quarter upon the Rock.
In the afternoon, and just as the tide’s work was over,
Mr Rennie and one of
his sons visit the
Mr John Rennie, engineer, accompanied by his son Mr
Rock. George, on their way to the harbour-works of
Fraserburgh, in Aberdeenshire, paid a visit to the Bell
Rock, in a boat from Arbroath. It being then too late in the tide for landing,
they remained on board of the Light-house Yacht all night, when the writer,
who had now been secluded from society for several weeks, enjoyed much
of Mr Rennie’s interesting conversation; both on general topics, and
professionally upon the progress of the Bell-Rock works, on which he was
consulted as chief engineer. The weather continued very moderate all night;
but although there was little swell in the sea, yet our quarters on board of
the Yacht were not the most agreeable, especially to strangers. The vessel,
being perfectly new, was so completely water-tight, that it was hardly
possible to keep her free of bilge-water, and so strong was the hydrogenous

gas or offensive effluvia arising from it, that it had affected the colour of the
paint of the cabin floor-cloth, and even, to a certain degree, blackened the
silver plate, coins and watch-cases on board, notwithstanding the frequent
pumping of the ship, and other means which were taken to sweeten her.
The artificers landed this morning at 9, after which one
Tuesday 6th.
of the boats returned to the ship for the writer and
Messrs Rennie, who, upon landing, were saluted with a
Works given up for display of the colours from the Beacon, and by three
the season.
cheers from the workmen. Both the weather and the
tide were pretty favourable for the operations, and the masons continued
about three hours at work. Every thing was now in a prepared state for
leaving the rock, and giving up the works afloat for this season, excepting
some small articles, which would still occupy the smiths and joiners for a
few days longer. They, accordingly, shifted on board of the Smeaton, while
the Yacht left the rock for Arbroath, with Messrs Rennie, the writer, and the
remainder of the artificers. But, before taking leave, the steward served out
a farewell-glass, when three hearty cheers were given, and an earnest wish
expressed, that every thing, in the spring of 1808, might be found in the
same state of good order as it was now about to be left.
In concluding the account of the first season’s work, the writer may
observe, that he had not at any time previously to his engaging in the Bell
Rock works, been more than five or six days at sea on a stretch, even in the
course of his voyages to the Northern Light-houses. But on the present
occasion he had now been afloat upwards of seven weeks, with the
exception of a single day spent in the Work Yard. Upon his return to the
shore, therefore, after having successfully closed these critical operations,
he felt a mixed emotion of happiness and gratitude, for so prosperous a
termination; and, participating in those feelings which are known to actuate
the mariner, after a dangerous voyage, he looked with thankfulness to that
Providence which had preserved those engaged in the work under so many
perilous circumstances.
The period during which the works had been continued,
Number of days the
artificers were
appeared of much longer duration to every one than it
actually at work. really was, for, upon calculating the actual time spent
upon the rock, it amounted to about 180 hours, of
which only 133 or about 13½ days, of 10 hours each, could be said to have

been actively employed. Upon looking back on this result, the writer is
astonished at what had been accomplished in so short a period; for besides
the erection of the principal beams of the Beacon-house, something
considerable had also been done towards the preparation of the site of the
Light-house. He cannot, therefore, help thinking, that the experience of this
season’s work at the Bell Rock, affords a good example of what may be
executed under similar circumstances, when every heart and every hand is
anxiously and zealously engaged; for the artificers wrought at the erection
of the Beacon as for life; or somewhat like men stopping a breach in a wall
to keep out an overwhelming flood.

Progress of the Work.

In stating the progress of the Bell Rock works at the close of the first
season, it is hardly necessary to say, that, for success, and ultimate utility,
they far exceeded the writer’s most sanguine expectations. By the erection
of the frame-work of the Beacon-house, the rock had in a great measure
been robbed of its terrors to those employed in building the Light-house. At
all times when a boat could be put to sea, or approach this sunken reef,
there was not now that actual danger in landing which formerly presented
itself. Should the Tender in future go a-drift, or a boat happen to be wrecked
on the rock, the Beacon could now be looked to as a place of shelter, till
more efficient means could be resorted to. This work had always been a
great desideratum with the writer, who had now chiefly to consider how the
future steps were to be attained, having much less to occupy his attention in
regard to the safety of the people employed.
The whole of the artificers being collected at the work-yard of Arbroath, in
the latter end of the month of October, their number amounted to forty-four.
It, therefore, became indispensably necessary to get forward with the
quarries, otherwise a number of experienced workmen must have been paid
off, which would have been attended with much disadvantage to the
operations at the rock next year. There was now every prospect that by mid-
summer, the foundation or site of the Light-house would be completely
excavated and ready for commencing the building; while as yet the hewing
of one entire course had not been completed, for want of materials,
although the stones of three or four successive courses were in progress. For

example, 10 blocks of granite were still wanting of the first course, 30
blocks of the second, which measured 18 inches in thickness, and 20 blocks
of the third, and so of other courses. The procuring of a sufficient stock of
materials, and getting the quarries into a more regular system of supply,
became an object which we shall more particularly notice under the article
Building Materials, in the following chapter.
The Work-Yard at Arbroath, where the stones were
Work-Yard.
collected and hewn, consisted of an inclosed piece of
ground, extending to about three quarters of an acre,
conveniently situate on the northern side of the Lady Lane, or street,
leading from the western side of the Harbour, being only about 200 yards
distant from the Light-House shipping birth, as will be seen from Plate XII.
Upon this plot of ground there was built a suite or range of barrack-rooms
for the artificers, and the several apartments connected with the engineer’s
office, mould-makers’ drawing-room, stores, work-shops for smiths and
joiners, stable, &c. extending 150 feet along the north side of the work-
yard, which were now fully occupied. Shades of timber were also
constructed for the workmen in wet weather, and a kiln for burning lime. In
a centrical position of this ground, a circular platform of masonry was built,
on which the stones were laid when dressed, and each course tried and
marked, before being shipped for the rock. This platform measured 44 feet
in diameter; it was founded with large broad stones, at the depth of about 2
feet 6 inches, and built to within 10 inches of the surface with ruble work;
on which a course of neatly dressed and well jointed masonry was laid, of
the red sandstone from the quarries to the eastward of Arbroath, which
brought the platform on a level with the surface of the ground. Here the
dressed part of the first entire course of the Light-House was now lying, and
the platform was so substantially built as to be capable of supporting any
number of courses which it might be found convenient to lay upon it, in the
further progress of the work.
Mr Gloag, who commanded the Light-house Yacht, had
1807, November.
been successful in grappling and finding the old
moorings of the Pharos floating-light, from which that
vessel had drifted after the dreadful gale of the 6th of September. These he
had weighed, and removed to within about 400 fathoms of the new ground
taken up by that vessel, and had placed a buoy upon them, that, in case of

her again drifting, any vessel carrying the floating-light could immediately
be brought to ride at these spare moorings. The Yacht had also lifted three
of the four floating buoys, with their chains and mushroom anchors, from
the neighbourhood of the Bell Rock, leaving one set for the use of the
vessel occasionally attending for the purpose of inspecting the Beacon. In
the course of the month of November several very severe gales of wind
occurred, and Mr Watt, the foreman joiner, who had been appointed to
examine the rock at spring-tides, when the weather would permit, with three
or four artificers, found some small repairs necessary, in consequence of
damage which the Beacon had sustained.
On the morning of the 22d of this month, the writer
Sunday 22d.
landed at the Bell Rock, when the greater part of the
bracing-chains of the Beacon were in a loosened state,
The Writer visits the and hanging from their eye-bolts, like so much
Rock.
shipwreck. Two of the chain-bats were also drawn,
which had lifted considerable masses of the rock along with them. But after
a most careful and minute examination of the six principal beams of the
beacon, and their respective supports, it was satisfactory to find that the
great iron-stanchions had not the smallest appearance of working or
shifting; the wedges of timber and iron having exactly the same appearance
as when they were at first driven home by the hammer; the coating of pitch
and tar was also as entire upon the seams and joints as when first applied.
Every thing connected with the fixing of the beams at the top was likewise
in good order. Nor was it less surprising, after so much stormy weather, to
find that the ruble building, with Pozzolano’s mortar, used in filling several
holes in the site of the Beacon, remained in its place, having now become
fully as hard as the adjoining parts of the rock.
Although it was found that the bracing-chains could not withstand the
shaking and tremulous motion of the Beacon, yet they were again set up
and tightened, with the exception of the two that had lifted their bats, with a
mass of the rock; which were knocked off altogether. It is here worthy of
remark, that the bolts of the bracing screws had always a tendency to
unlock, and one of the nuts, as before noticed, had even unscrewed no less
than three inches. To prevent this in future, a piece of small wire was turned
round the threads of each screw, which had a tendency to preserve them; but
still the chains stretched, became loose, and broke their eye-bolts, or lifted

part of the rock with the strain. The bracing-chains may, however, be
conceived to have had some effect in checking the force of the waves, as
was observable in the operation of the sea upon the extensive beds of
marine plants. It often happened, when heavy seas were rolling along the
Bell Rock, which at a distance threatened to overrun the whole, that, upon
reaching these beds of fuci, with which the flat and level parts of the rock
were thickly coated, the velocity and force of the waves were immediately
checked, and in a great measure destroyed.
The unlocking of screws, where washers had been
Professor Playfair’s
introduced as a security, was rather unexpected, and the
observations about the
unlocking of screws. writer took an opportunity of conversing with his much
respected friend Professor Playfair of Edinburgh,
regarding this circumstance. The Professor observed, that he had
experienced some inconveniency of this kind from the unlocking of almost
all the screws of a telescope, which had been sent to him from London by
the mail-coach. Indeed from the spiral form of the screw, which is, in fact,
an inclined plane, Mr Playfair readily accounted for such an occurrence;
and when reflected upon, it seems to be an effect rather to be looked for,
and is a reason why rivetting the point of a bolt, in preference to screwing
it, should generally be resorted to, where much friction or motion is to be
apprehended.
At this visit to the Bell Rock, the writer went also on
1807, December.
board of the Floating-light, where every thing was
found in good order. On some occasions Mr Sinclair,
State of the Floating- the commander, stated, that the vessel had rolled
light.
excessively hard; that she had shipped two or three very
heavy seas over the waste-boards, and that he had found it occasionally
necessary to veer out 80 fathoms of cable. He also stated, that the floating-
light had been run foul of by a large smack-rigged vessel, with all her
canvas set, though the lights were burning perfectly clear. This vessel had
struck upon the larboard quarter, damaged the taff-rail, and started three of
the floating-lights’ trenails. That they immediately hailed the vessel, but she
sheered-off, and her crew made no reply. The smack was beating to the
northward, and was much lumbered on the quarter-deck with packages of
earthen-ware, which were distinctly seen upon her deck from the brilliancy
of the lights.

The sailors on board of the floating-light were all in good health, and
appeared to be satisfied with their situation. The master, however,
mentioned, that his crew, particularly the young men, calculated very
sharply about their turns for leave on shore, which came round in the course
of about six weeks. Indeed, the probability is, that had the seamen not been
rather compelled to this duty, as a protection against the Impress-service, it
might have been found extremely difficult to get able seamen to undertake
so dreary a life as the continual round of riding at anchor in the open sea,
without the company of other shipping, or the pleasure of intercourse with
the shore, as is the case in the ordinary road or anchorage for shipping.
The several departments of the Bell Rock works being arranged for the
winter months, the sloop Smeaton was appointed to make several trips to
the quarries for stones, while the Light-house Yacht, being stationed at
Arbroath, was to attend the Floating-light, and carry off the artificers to
examine the state of the Beacon at spring-tides. The writer having adjusted
these matters, returned to Edinburgh on the 4th of December. Here he was
employed in preparing the necessary implements, procuring materials, and
in other objects connected with the work, which will fall more properly to
be noticed in the transactions of the year 1808.

CHAPTER IV.
SHIPPING.—IMPLEMENTS.—BUILDING MATERIALS,—AND PROGRESS OF THE
BELL ROCK WORKS IN THE YEAR 1808.

After taking some notice of the preparations made
1808, January.
during the winter months, or early part of the year
1808, it is proposed, in describing the progress of the works of this season,
to adopt the form of a journal or diary, as in the preceding chapter. The last
year’s operations being more of a preliminary nature, the implements and
apparatus employed were few in number, and simple in their construction.
But the facilities to be afforded by the erection of the Beacon were such,
that not only the site of the building was expected to be prepared, but it was
hoped that some of the courses of masonry would also be laid during the
ensuing summer. It therefore became necessary to be provided with
shipping, and every article, both of implements and building materials,
however small the actual progress of the work might ultimately be.

Shipping.

It has already been noticed, in the course of last year’s
The New Tender. operations, that much inconveniency, and no small
degree of hazard, were experienced in making the
numerous passages between the Bell Rock and the Floating-light, especially
when the boats were crowded with artificers. Not having previously been so
fully aware of these circumstances, and with a view to save expence, the
Floating-light was likewise applied to the purpose of a tender. She was
consequently moored at a more considerable distance from the rock, as will
be understood from Plate V.; but as, from the nature of her tackling, she
could not be cast loose upon any emergency, she was found to be but ill
adapted to the uses of a tender.
The writer having represented this to the Light-house
Is named The Sir Board, was immediately authorised to provide a vessel,
Joseph Banks.
to be exclusively employed for the service of the rock.
He accordingly purchased one upon the stocks at Arbroath, in such

forwardness, that she was launched upon the 18th of January 1808. This
vessel was built by a Mr Thomas Fernie, and was considered so complete in
the mould or figure of her hull, that some of the best judges of shipping
have described her as one of the handsomest vessels which perhaps had
hitherto been built in Scotland. On account of the exertions of the late Sir
Joseph Banks, in his capacity of one of the Lords of Trade, in procuring the
loan from Government, for the use of the Bell Rock Light-house, already
alluded to in the Introduction to this work, the writer suggested, as a mark
of respect, that the new tender should be named “The Sir Joseph Banks,” to
which the Light-house Board most readily acceded.
She was no sooner launched, than her rigging and
Is rigged as a
schooner.
equipment, in the best manner, were undertaken by
professional people; but the inspection of the interior
fitting and accommodations was kindly undertaken by the late Provost
Balfour of Arbroath, a gentleman who took great delight in architectural
pursuits, and who, upon all occasions, felt the most lively interest in the
operations of the Bell Rock. In order that this vessel might stow two large
boats upon deck, and be got as quickly as possible under sail, in the event of
her breaking adrift, she was rigged as a schooner; and that, by the
application of a tackle from each mast, the boats might be conveniently
managed, in getting them in and out of the vessel. The Sir Joseph Banks
being only 81 tons register, it was necessary to lay out the births, for the
several departments of the service, with all possible attention to the
economising of room. The forepeak was accordingly fitted up with a
coboose for cooking; immediately aft of this birth, a compartment was set
off for the ship’s company and the landing-master’s crew, with births for
fifteen sailors. But Jack is by no means ill to satisfy with his sleeping-place,
and it was often found necessary to encroach upon the allotted number for
this birth, according to the exigencies of the service. The waist or middle of
the ship was set apart for the artificers, and was capable of containing forty
men. Still proceeding aft, a small birth was set off for the mate and steward,
which communicated both with the artificers’ birth, and also with the cabin
for the engineer’s assistants, the landing-master, and the captain of the
tender. In the sternmost part of the ship, a cabin was fitted up for the use of
the writer; the whole being found extremely commodious and suitable.
From the great proportion of the ship required for the birthage of seamen
and artificers, the hold of this small vessel was much curtailed, there being