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Title: Adventures of a Young Naturalist

Author: Lucien Biart

Editor: Parker Gillmore

Release date: July 8, 2008 [eBook #26009]
Most recently updated: January 3, 2021

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES
OF A YOUNG NATURALIST ***

Page 4

ADVENTURES
OF

A YOUNG
NATURALIST.
BY

Frontispiece.

Page 5

LUCIEN BIART.
EDITED AND ADAPTED BY

PARKER GILLMORE,

AUTHOR OF "ALL ROUND THE
WORLD," "GUN, ROD, AND
SADDLE," "ACCESSIBLE
FIELD SPORTS," ETC.

WITH ONE HUNDRED AND
SEVENTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS.

NEW YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS,
PUBLISHERS,
FRANKLIN SQUARE.
1871.

Page 6

PREFACE.
There is no country on the face of the earth that possesses greater
interest in the eyes of the scientific or travelled than Mexico, the scene
where the adventures so graphically and clearly narrated in this volume
transpired: nor is this partiality to be wondered at when we recall to
memory what a lavish hand Nature has subtended to her.
Although several of our most celebrated naturalists have climbed its
lofty volcanic mountains, explored its lagoons and giant rivers, and
traversed its immense forests, still, from the vast extent of that country and
variety of climate—caused by difference of elevation—much yet remains to
be done ere the public become thoroughly conversant with its arboreal and
zoological productions.
The elephant, hippopotamus, lion, and tiger, the largest and most
formidable of the terrestrial mammals of the Old World, are not here to be
found; but their places are well supplied by the swamp-loving tapir, the
voracious alligator, the stealthy puma, and the blood-thirsty jaguar, all well
worthy of the sportsman's rifle, or of the snake-visioned native warrior's
weapons—for the power of destruction in these animals during life is great,
while after death they either furnish valuable skins or wholesome food.
Moreover, here the wolf awakes the reverberating echoes of the forest with
its dismal howl; the raccoon, opossum, and squirrel pass their lives in
sportive gambols; the wild and the ocellated turkeys strut about, pompous
in manner, as if conscious of their handsome plumage, while the timid deer
and shaggy-coated bison roam over prairies or through woodland glades, as
yet unacquainted with the report of the white man's destructive fire-arms.
Can it, therefore, be surprising that our little hero should have craved to
be permitted to have a sight of this new land, so rich in the prospect of
adventure? How he behaved himself throughout the numerous ordeals to
which he was submitted, suffice it for me to say that his conduct was
worthy of the representative of any nationality, and such as was calculated
to make all parents proud of their offspring; for whether suffering from

Page 7

thirst or hunger, being persecuted by noxious insects, straying in the woods,
even when within reach of the fiercest carnivora or in the presence of the
deadliest reptiles, he never for a moment hesitated in performing his
seniors' instructions, lost his courage, or, better still, an opportunity of
improving his mind.
That the young English reader may benefit as much by the perusal of
this work as Master Lucien, otherwise "Sunbeam," did by his journey
through the Cordilleras of Mexico, and that they may enjoy the information
herein imparted upon the wonderful works of the Creator, is the sincere
wish of
The Editor.

Page 8

CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION Page 13

CHAPTER I.
Who we are.—Gringalet.—Sunrise.—The Sugar-cane.—A Halt. 20

CHAPTER II.
Sugar.—Gringalet in the Molasses Tank.—L'Encuerado's obstinate
34
Idea.—An Indian Supper.

CHAPTER III.
Waking up in the Morning.—The pigmy World of Lilliput.—
L'Encuerado and the Bottles.—Massacre of Thistles.—The 46
Charcoal-burning Indians.

CHAPTER IV.
A difficult Ascent.—The Goat.—The Indian Girls.—The Tobacco-
plant.—The Bull-fight.—Game.—Lucien's Gun.—Our Entry into 61
the Wilderness.

CHAPTER V.
The great Forest.—Crows.—The first Bivouac.—The Squirrel-
76
hunt.—Our young Guide.—The Chant in the Desert.

CHAPTER VI.
Coffee.—Turpentine.—Couroucous.—Pine-needles.—Three
Volcanoes in sight at once.—The Carabus Family.—Scorpions.— 89
Salamanders.—A midnight Disturbance.

CHAPTER VII.
The Cats'-eyes Pomade.—Armadillo.—Lucien and the cruel Fern. 104
—The fallen Mountain.—The Woodpecker.—The Basilisk.—

Page 9

L'Encuerado's fresh Idea.

CHAPTER VIII.
A Vulture's Feast.—Dragon's Blood.—A Coral Serpent.—The Owl.
—Mexican Moles.—Toucans.—The Scolopacidæ.—L'Encuerado 119
turned Tailor.—Sunset.

CHAPTER IX.
The South Wind.—The Hurricane.—A fearful Night.—The
uprooted Giant.—The Sarsaparilla-plant.—Gringalet discovers a 135
Spring.—Our Bivouac.

CHAPTER X.
The Rabbit.—Wild Potatoes.—A difficult Path.—An extinct Crater.
—Hoar-frost.—The Torrent.—The Fawn.—The Tettigones.— 148
Dragon-flies.

CHAPTER XI.
A blue Lizard.—The Guava-tree.—A Cataract.—Nest of yellow
Serpents.—A vegetable Helmet.—The Kingfisher.—Hunting 164
Water-fleas.—The Tadpole.—A Collection of Water-bugs.

CHAPTER XII.
A Relation of Gringalet.—Our four-footed Guide.—A Review of
our Party.—The Alligator-tortoise.—The Pheasants.—The 182
Magnolia.—The Nutmeg-tree.—The Blue-plant.—The Caterpillar.

CHAPTER XIII.
The Sensitive-plant.—Gringalet and the Porcupine.—The Mexican
Chameleon.—The Kite and the Falcon.—An amphisbæna Snake.— 196
A Council of Turkeys.

CHAPTER XIV.
The Meteor.—God Almighty's Lanterns.—The Skunk.—The Jalap
plant.—An aerial Journey.—The Orchids.—Bivouac in the Mouth 211
of a Cave.—Gringalet and the Beetles.—A White Ants' Nest.

Page 10

CHAPTER XV.
Our Substitutes for Lamps.—First Glance into the Cave.—The
Elaterides.—The Gothic Hall.—Stalagmites and Stalactites.—A
235
Chichiquimec Cemetery.—The "Tree of St. Ignatius."—The
Opossum and its little ones.

CHAPTER XVI.
The Earth-nuts.—A Wild-cat's Feast.—Another exploring
255
Expedition to the Cave.—The Bats.—Excavations in a Tomb.

CHAPTER XVII.
A forced March.—Wild-ducks.—Vegetable Soap.—An unwelcome
269
Guest.

CHAPTER XVIII.
Wild Dahlias.—A painful Misadventure.—The Euphorbia Plants.
—The Washer Raccoon.—Surprised by a Torrent.—L'Encuerado
282
turned Hat-maker.—New Method for driving out Evil Spirits.—
The Anhinga.

CHAPTER XIX.
The Black Iguana.—Another Country.—Reminiscences of
299
Childhood.—The Mirage.—A Fire in the Plain.

CHAPTER XX.
The Morning and Night Dew.—The Terre-Froide.—Water-spouts
and Whirlwinds.—The Barbary Fig-trees.—The Cactus-plants.— 310
The Viznaga.—Our Hopes disappointed.—Don Benito Coyotepec.

CHAPTER XXI.
Black Skins and white Skins.—We have to turn Carpenters.—
L'Encuerado chanting and preaching.—The Palm-leaves.— 326
Vegetable Butter Tree.

CHAPTER XXII.

Page 11

Mexican Oak-apples.—A Stream lost in an Abyss.—The Wild
Nasturtium.—Sportsmen deceived by Children.—The Grave-
339
digging Beetles.—The Cochineal Insect.—Mexican Wine.—Good-
bye to our Indian Hosts.

CHAPTER XXIII.
Again on the Road.—The Bird-catching Spider.—The Marten and
the Skunk.—The Flying Squirrel.—The Otter-hunt.—L'Encuerado 353
wounded.

CHAPTER XXIV.
A laborious Task.—Wild Lime-trees.—Pigeons.—The West India
Cherry.—The Earwig.—Snakes and Serpents.—First Glance at the 367
Terre-Chaude.

CHAPTER XXV.
A Ground-squirrel.—A Mouse's Nest.—Humming-birds and their
young ones.—The Locust-tree.—Mexican Wolves and their 375
Retreat.

CHAPTER XXVI.
The Path through the Forest.—A forced March.—The Bromelaceæ.
—Mosquitoes.—The Water-plant.—The Promised Land.—A Band 387
of Monkeys.

CHAPTER XXVII.
L'Encuerado and the Parrots.—Gringalet meets a Friend.—The
Cougar, or American Lion.—A Stream.—Our "Palm-tree Villa."— 400
Turtles' Eggs.—The Tantalus.—Herons and Flamingoes.

CHAPTER XXVIII.
A Grove of Logwood trees.—Ants at their Work.—Parasitic
Insects.—The Great Ant-eater.—Spoonbills and Herons.—Lost in 415
the Forest.

CHAPTER XXIX.

Page 12

A nocturnal Visitor.—The Fall of a Tree.—A fearful Night.—The
428
Monkeys.—Master Job.—All right at last.

CHAPTER XXX.
We build a Raft.—The Horned Serpent.—Good-bye to "Palm-tree
Villa."—Mosquitoes and Horse-flies.—The Rattlesnake.—An 438
Ocelot.

CHAPTER XXXI.
The Hunters hunted.—Escape from Peccaries.—A Jaguar-hunt.—
446
An Ibis.—The Caymans.—The Wild Bulls.

CHAPTER XXXII.
The King of the Vultures.—The Ticks.—L'Encuerado frightened by
a Demon.—The Tapirs.—Good-bye to the Stream.—The Puma's
Prey.—A miserable Night.—Our Departure.—The Savannah.— 464
Lucien carried in a Litter.—Hunger and Thirst.—We abandon our
Baggage and Pets in Despair.

CHAPTER XXXIII.
Thirst.—L'Encuerado's Return.—The Description of his Journey.—
Janet, Verdet, and Rougette.—Hunting wild Horses.—Our last 483
Adventure.—The Return.

Page 13

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Frontispiece.
Page
We were just then passing through a plantation
28
At last, lagging a little, our party reached the foot of the mountains 44
The basket and its bearer chased one another down the hill 50
Almost immediately the foliage was pushed aside 56
On hearing the uproar two Indian women came running towards us 65
Behind us opened a dark, narrow ravine, with perpendicular sides 74
We now entered one of those glades 82
It was really a capital dinner 101
The dog began to howl desperately 114
A flock of vultures attracted our attention 121
Lucien loudly called out to me 126
Sumichrast halted near three gigantic stones 146
A labyrinth of rocks brought us out in front of a stony rampart more
152
than a hundred feet in height
Sunset surprised us ere we had finished our labor 156
A shrub kept him from falling into the gulf 169
The cataract 174
Fall of Ingénio (from a drawing by the Marquis of Radepoint) 177
A tiger-cat bounded forward and seized the pheasant 191
The kite avoided the shock, and continued to rise in the air. 202
It looked like an immense pedestal, surmounted by two bronze
210
statues
Above us, the trees crossed their branches 218
Then Sumichrast slid down the cord to the tree 223
I then ordered the Indian to light the fire 227
The wildest dreams could not picture a stranger style of architecture 241
Five or six skulls seemed to glare at me through their empty orbits 245
Crater of Popocatepetl 249

Page 14

Our two scouts climbed some enormous heaps of rocks 262
The animal continued to retreat before him, and led him to the
266
mouth of a cave
They were at once saluted by a platoon fire 273
I at once recognized the black sugar-cane snake 279
Following in Indian file, we ascended the course of the stream 287
The rocks came rolling down; dashing together under the impulse of
291
a liquid avalanche
L'Encuerado set to work to plait us hats 295
I used to go iguana hunting with my brothers 301
The moon rose, and rendered the illusion more striking 307
The sand rose rapidly, whirling round and round 314
Everywhere the cactus might be seen assuming twenty different
318
shapes
The water disappeared under a low arch 341
Four children appeared 346
An animal came tumbling down about ten paces from us 358
The sun was just setting 362
L'Encuerado was pressing his arm and uttering cries of pain 365
The Terre-Chaude was stretched out at my feet 373
And the Indian went away, saluting 379
I threw a stone at the beast 383
There was a whole tribe of monkeys frolicking about 397
I looked in vain for the cougar 403
L'Encuerado turned three somersets 407
It stood up on its hind legs 417
The bank to the right was covered with cranes, and that to the left
422
with spoonbills
The head and bright eyes of a superb jaguar appeared about fifty
426
paces from us
We now came upon some creeping plants 430
The monkey slid down, and fell dead at our feet 435
In front of us opened a glade, bordered by tall palm-trees 442
A band of peccaries were pursuing us 447

Page 15

The banks of the river were covered with alligators 454
The Indian and his branch descended with a splash into the river 458
The entire drove dashed at full gallop into the stream 461
The reeds were pushed aside 468
The deer sank down under the weight of a puma 472
While the moon dimly lighted up the landscape. 475
Lucien began to repeat to the parrots the names of Hortense and
479
Emile
We had to cross some muddy marshes 486
Also numerous Woodcuts embodied in, and illustrative of, the text.

Page 16

INTRODUCTION.
The evening before leaving for one of my periodical excursions, I was
putting in order my guns, my insect-cases, and all my travelling necessaries,
when my eldest son, a lad nine years old, came running to me in that
wheedling manner—using that irresistible diplomacy of childhood which
imposes on fathers and mothers so many troublesome treaties, and which
children so well know how to assume when they desire to obtain a favor.
"Are you going to make as long a journey as you did last month?" he
asked.
"Longer, I think; for, as we are so soon leaving for Europe, I want to
complete my collection as rapidly as possible. I know you will be a good
boy during my absence, and obedient to your mother. You will think of me
sometimes, will you not?"
"I should much prefer not to think of you," he responded.
"You would rather, then, that I staid at Orizava?"
"Oh no; I should like you to go, and—to go with you."
"What can you be thinking of? Before we were a mile on the road you
would be knocked up, complaining of heat, thirst, fatigue—"
"That's quite a mistake, dear father. I know I should be very useful to
you, if you would only take me. I could pick up wood, light the fire, and
look after the cooking, besides catching butterflies and insects, both for
your collection and mine."
"That's all very well; but the first time you were scratched by a thorn you
would cry."
"Oh father! I promise you I will never cry, except when—I can't help it."
I could not resist smiling at this answer.

Page 17

"Then it is a settled thing, and I am to go with you," exclaimed Lucien.
"We must consult your mother, and if she sees no objection, I—"
The child ran off without allowing me to finish my sentence.
While I went on cleaning my guns, I found that I was pleading with
myself in favor of the little would-be traveller. I also remembered that when
I was only seven years old I had travelled long distances on foot in
company with my father, and to this early habit owed much of the power of
accomplishing dangerous and fatiguing journeys, which would have
frightened stronger men. I even persuaded myself that it would be useful,
before leaving Mexico, to impress the memory of my son with a sight of
some of the grand scenes of tropical nature, so that he should retain correct
ideas of the wonderful country in which his infancy had been spent. I
moreover knew that l'Encuerado, the gallant Indian who had been my
servant for so many years, perfectly adored his young master, and would
watch over him just as I should, and thus ward off any possible mishaps. On
the other hand, I risked inspiring my son with that love of travel and
adventure which had contributed materially to my scientific collection, but
very little to my fortune. Nevertheless, what a wholesome influence is
exercised over the mind by an almost unceasing struggle with the
difficulties that beset one's course through an unknown country. Both the
mind and body of my son must surely benefit by such an excursion, which
might be curtailed if desirable. Soon after the boy returned, accompanied by
his mother.
"What is all this about a journey, for which my consent is the only
requisite?" asked my wife.
"Mine is needed too," I answered.
"Why not take him, dear? L'Encuerado has promised me that he will not
lose sight of him for an instant."
"What! do you take his part?"
"He does long so much to go with you," she said.

Page 18

"Be it so," I replied. "Get your clothes ready, for we must be off the day
after to-morrow at daybreak."
Lucien was almost beside himself with joy. He rushed about the house
from one end to the other; gave the servants much unnecessary trouble;
leggings, boots, and a game-bag, he wanted; also a sword, a knife, insect-
cases—in fact, a whole multitude of requirements. L'Encuerado, who was
almost as rejoiced as the lad, cut him a travelling-staff, as strong and light
as was requisite, and made him other auxiliaries necessary on such
excursions. From this moment forward, Lucien was constantly running and
climbing about all the rooms and the yards round the house, to accustom
himself, as he said, to the fatigue of a long journey. At dinner-time he would
take nothing but bread and water, in order to prepare his system for the
meagre fare of the bivouac. In fact, I had to quiet him down by
recommending more coolness to his excited little brain.
The eve of our departure arrived, and several friends came to bid me
farewell. My son told them of all the great things he had determined to
achieve—how he would crush the heads of scorpions, and with his sword
cut down trees or kill serpents.
"If I tumble over the rocks," said he, "I shall only laugh at my bruises;
and if we meet with any tigers—"[A]
An extremely warlike attitude terminated this sentence.
Ceasing at length from want of further words, he would very willingly
have reduced to silence, with his sword, those who disapproved of my
project of taking into the forests and savannahs my child of nine years old,
and exposing him to all the unknown dangers of savage life—to fatigue,
rain, and all kinds of maladies! Why, it appeared like tempting Providence,
and risking, for mere amusement, the life, or at least the health, of my child.
The unanimity of these reflections began to shake my resolution, and I
expressed myself to that effect.
"Oh father!" cried Lucien, "are you going to break your word to me?"
"No," I replied; "neither now nor ever. I want you to become a man, so
you shall go. But be off to bed, for you must be ready to start by four
o'clock in the morning."

Page 19

I had given notice of my intended tour to my friend François Sumichrast,
a Swiss savant, well known for his discoveries in natural history, in whose
company I had undertaken several journeys. About ten o'clock at night, I
began to fancy my letter of information had miscarried, when a knock at the
door startled me, and I soon recognized the happy voice of my friend. He
had come expressly from Cordova, in order to make one in our little
expedition. I told him all my doubts and fears about my boy, but he quite
took the part of the young traveller; almost what I might have expected
from a companion of Töpffer.
"Come here," he cried to Lucien, who, half-undressed, had just peeped in
at the door.
The boy ran to him, and my friend, whose stature much exceeded the
average, lifted him up and embraced him as an ally.
"At your age," said Sumichrast, "I had made the tour of Switzerland, my
bag on my back, and had tried my teeth on bears'-steaks. I predict that you
will behave like a man. Shall I be wrong?"
"Oh no, M. Sumichrast."
"Can you live without eating and drinking?"
"I will do all you do."
"That's well; now go to bed. If you keep your word, when we return in a
month's time you'll be a prodigy."
Next morning Lucien was up and ready long before day-break, and
complained of our tardiness. He was dressed in a jacket and breeches of
blue cloth, with his Mexican cloak over them; he carried in his belt a sword
ready sharpened, to cut his way through the creeping plants; while over his
shoulder was passed the strap of a game-pouch, containing a knife, a cup,
and a change of under-clothing. The broad-brimmed hat, or sombrero, on
his head, gave him a most determined air. I had almost forgotten the famous
travelling-staff which for the last two days had been resounding against all
the floors in the house. L'Encuerado, a Mistec Indian, and an old tiger-
hunter, who, through a thousand dangers faced in common, had become
much attached to my person, at last made his appearance, clad in a leathern

Page 20

jacket and breeches, which had given him his name of "Encuerado."[B] The
brave and adventurous Indian was almost beside himself with joy at the
idea of conducting into the forest the child whom he had known from his
cradle. On his back he fastened a basket containing our main stock of
provisions—such as coffee, salt, pepper, dried maize, cakes, etc. Lucien's
younger brother and sister had jumped out of bed, and were dancing all
round us: the latter seemed somewhat sad and uneasy, but the former was
dissatisfied, manfully asserting that he, too, was quite big enough to go with
us.
At the last moment my poor wife lost all her courage, and regretted she
had ever given her consent; but when Lucien saw the tears which his
departure had called forth, he became heroic in his self-denial, throwing
aside his hat and stick.
"Mother," he cried, embracing her in his arms, "I will not go away if it
makes you cry."
"All right, then; I will go instead," said his brother Emile, who ran and
picked up the stick and hat, and then walked towards the outer door, utterly
disregarding his bedroom costume.
"No, no," said my wife; "I will not be the means of depriving you of so
much pleasure."
The kind mother again kissed her child, and commended him anew to
our joint care.
I led off my little companion; but when we got into the court-yard, I had
to exercise all my authority to make his younger brother give up the stick
and hat he had taken possession of. When restitution was effected, the two
children kissed each other, and parted friends.
At last the outer gate was passed, and our footsteps rang through the
quiet streets of Orizava. We were commencing the first stage of our journey
in pursuit of scientific discoveries.

Page 21

Page 22

CHAPTER I.
WHO WE ARE.—GRINGALET.—SUNRISE.—THE SUGAR-CANE.—A
HALT.

It was the 20th April, 1864. The clock of the church of the convent of
Saint Joseph de Grace chimed 4 A.M. just as we turned into the main street
that leads out of the town.
Sumichrast took the lead. Tall in stature, noble in mien, and broad-
shouldered, he was, in spite of his blue eyes and fair hair, the perfect
representative of moral and bodily strength. I was always in the habit of
permitting him to lead the way, when, in any of our excursions, it was
necessary to favorably impress the imagination of the Indians. He was
distinguished as an ornithologist, and was never so much at home as in the
midst of the forests; in fact, he often regretted that he had not been born an
Indian. His gravity entirely devoid of sadness, his skill in shooting, and his
silent laugh, often led me to compare him to Cooper's "Leather-Stocking;"
but it was "Leather-Stocking" become a man of the world and of science.
Next let me describe my son. Like all
children, he was imitative, so had
commenced very early to make a
collection of insects, and this was
sufficient to give him a precocious taste
for natural history; but in his character
he was earnest and reflective, and very
eager for knowledge. Sumichrast took
pleasure in the boy's intelligence, and
often amused himself by arguing with
him. From the flashes of childish humor
which he would display on such
occasions, my friend sometimes gave
him the nickname of "Sun-beam."

Page 23

Next to the child came l'Encuerado, an Indian of the Mistec race—a
strange mixture of delicacy, simplicity, kindness, candor, and obstinacy. In
the interval that had elapsed since I first met him, twelve years before, in
the Terre-Chaude, he had become my friend as much as my servant. But he
was never happy in a town, and was always praising wild life, even the
inconveniences of the solitudes in which he had been born.
"What a pity that it is so dark," said
Lucien, whom Sumichrast was leading
by the hand.
"For what reason do you wish for
daylight?" I asked.
"Why? Because every one is asleep
now, and none of my friends will see
me pass with my sword, my gourd, and
my game-pouch."
"So you think that your travelling-
costume would make your companions
envious?—that's not a kind feeling."
"No, father; I should like them to
see me, certainly; but I don't want to
give pain to any one."
We passed along the foot of Borrego, the mountain which has become so
famous, owing to the conflict which took place there between sixty French
soldiers and two thousand Mexicans, and had just reached the gateway of
Angostura when a dog ran past, but soon returned, barking and fawning
upon us in every way. It was Gringalet, an elegantly although strongly made
greyhound, which had been a companion of my boy's from infancy,
l'Encuerado having brought him up "by hand" for his young master.
Gringalet was an orphan from the time of his birth, and had found in the
Indian a most attentive foster-parent. Three times a day he gave his adopted
child milk through a piece of rag tied over the neck of a bottle. The dog had
grown up by the side of his young master; many a time, doubtless, he had
snatched from his hands the half-eaten cake, but such casualties were only a

Page 24

temporary check upon their mutual attachment. He manifested, therefore, a
decided preference for three objects—Lucien, his nurse, and bottles in
general. I was at first rather vexed that the poor beast should have taken
upon himself the liberty of joining our expedition, so I tried to drive him
back. Gringalet ran to take refuge by the side of Lucien, with ears laid back,
and one paw raised; and looked at me with such mild eyes, so full of
supplication, that I could not find it in my heart to carry out my intention.
Sumichrast and l'Encuerado both interceded for the animal, which,
crouching and wagging his tail, came and lay down humbly at my feet.
Lucien, who was afraid I should behave harshly to his favorite, hid his face
in his hands. I was vanquished.
"Come along, then, and let us take Gringalet!" I said.
So I caressed the dog, which, clearly seeing that he had gained his cause,
bounded along the road in the most extravagant leaps, clearly indicative of
his emotions of pleasure. In spite of all his efforts to keep them back, tears
escaped from Lucien's eyes, and I had to turn my head away to avoid
having to recall the promise he made to refrain from crying. But,
nevertheless, although I wished him to learn how to bear stoically any
physical suffering, I had no desire to quench in him the evidences of a
feeling heart—that potent source of our sweetest pleasure and our bitterest
sorrow.
The gates of the town were still closed. On arriving in front of the guard-
house, I rapped at the window to awake the old man, the guardian of the
keys of the town.
"Won't he open the gate for us? Shall we be obliged to go home again?
Can't we start to-day, M. Sumichrast?" eagerly asked Lucien.
"Keep quiet," replied Sumichrast; "the porter is an old man, and we are
disturbing him earlier than we ought, which always puts him a little out of
temper. However active we may be, it is a good thing to know 'how to
wait.'"
At last the door-keeper made his appearance, the chains dropped one by
one, the heavy gate turned on its hinges, and Lucien was the first to spring
out into the open road. The sky was starless, the morning dew chilled our

Page 25

blood, and we felt that uncomfortable feeling which, in the tropics, affects
the traveller just at the period when night gives place to day. I led Lucien by
the hand, lest, in the dim light, he might fall. He shivered with cold, but was
unwilling to complain; I stepped on quickly in order that he might get
warm. Perhaps, just at this moment, he regretted his little bed, and thought
of the cup of warm chocolate which his mother often used to bring him as
soon as he awoke; but, unmurmuring, he retained his place by my side.
Beyond the village of Ingenio, a brisk south wind blew the dust in our
faces and retarded our speed. All round the trees bent before the squall, and
the large plantain leaves flew about, torn into ribbons. We now turned to the
right, and crossed a prairie. L'Encuerado required breath, for his load
weighed at least eighty pounds, although, like Æsop's burden, it would
surely get lighter at every meal. An enormous rock, which had tumbled
down from one of the surrounding mountains centuries past, offered us a
retreat sheltered from the wind. At this moment a line of purple edging the
eastern horizon announced the dawn of day.
"Come here," I called to Lucien.
And taking the lad between my knees, I said,
"You see that bright band of light which looks almost as if the horizon
was on fire? Well, from the middle of it the sun is just going to rise. At this
very moment, in Europe, it is almost noonday; but, as recompense, they will
have dark night when it is three o'clock in the afternoon here, and we shall
be pushing along, overwhelmed with the heat of an almost vertical sun. The
red line is now getting wider and paler; it is more like a golden mist. But
turn round and look at the mountain tops."
The child uttered a half-surprised cry; although we were in comparative
obscurity, the ridges of the Cordilleras seemed all on fire.
"Do you understand that phenomenon?" asked Sumichrast.
"Yes; for I know the earth is round, and these mountains, which are
higher than we are, of course first catch the rays of the sun."
The day broke, and a burning glow suffused the horizon; in a few
minutes the sun rose and inundated us with light. The birds began to chant

Page 26

their morning song, and the eagles, careering from every mountain top,
soared above our heads. The sunbeams twinkled through the dew-drops,
and the grass of the prairie seemed decked with diamonds. Black vultures,
which soared even higher than the eagles and the kites, traced out in the
blue sky the immense curves of their majestic flight. On every bush insects
spread their gauzy wings; perhaps they felt that not a minute should be lost
by beings whose birth, life, and death are all comprised in one single day.
"Oh!" cried Lucien, "as soon as we get home I shall tell mamma how
beautiful is sunrise! Is it not a shame that so many of us sleep through the
hour when this lovely prospect can only be enjoyed?"
I was obliged to cut short the little fellow's admiration—an admiration I
also shared. Each resumed his load; and now, in spite of the wind, we all
felt eager to advance. Gringalet, as glad as we were at the return of day,
frisked round Lucien, barking, jumping over ditches, and rolling in the dust
in his wild gambols. Our young companion began imitating his frolics; but I
soon called him to order, for our day's journey was to be as much as six to
seven leagues, and it was necessary to prevent Lucien fatiguing himself
unnecessarily.
"You always go either too quickly or too slowly," said Sumichrast to the
boy; "travellers, like soldiers, must walk at a regular pace, so as to reach
their halting-place without more than necessary fatigue. Come—form in
line! That's well; now, on we go!" was most amusing to see him trying to
keep a pace quite at
Lucien measured his steps by those of his instructor. It variance with the
length of his short legs.
"Halt!" cried Sumichrast; "you can hardly imagine your legs are as long
as mine. Perhaps in about ten years' time you may enjoy that privilege; but,
in the mean time, walk naturally—without either effort or hurry. One, two,
three!—now you are perfect. Keep on without noticing me; you can't walk
at my pace, so I must take to yours."
As our journey was to extend to the distance of three hundred leagues, it
was quite requisite that the boy should accustom himself to a regular step.
After several attempts this was accomplished, and all progressed together.

Page 27

We now directed our course
towards the heights. Our intention was
to make our way into the Cordillera,
and, passing round the volcano of
Orizava, to descend into the savannahs
beyond, slanting off to the left so as
ultimately to reach the sea. Then we
thought of traversing the prairies and
forests of the Terre-Chaude, so as
again to come to our starting-point
through the mountains of Songolica.
This circuit would represent a journey
of a hundred and fifty leagues as the
crow flies, or at least three hundred
leagues, reckoning all the circuits and
bends we should be obliged to make.
During this long expedition, we had
made up our minds to seek, when
"We were just then passing opportunity offered, the hospitality of
through a plantation." any Indian villages that might come in
our road, and only when absolutely
necessary to camp in the open air.
About eleven, the heat became overpowering, and Lucien began to
inquire about breakfast. We were just then passing through a plantation, I
might almost say a forest of sugar-canes. The stems of the plants were
either of a yellowish hue or veined with blue, and were more than six feet
high. The latter kind will ultimately supersede its rival; for the cultivators
assert that, although not so large, it affords a much more certain crop.
L'Encuerado, seizing his machete (a straight and a short cutlass,
indispensable to the inhabitants of the Terre-Chaude), cut down a
magnificent stem, and, peeling it, offered each of us a piece. The sugar-cane
is extremely hard, and it is necessary to cut it up in order to break the
cellules in which the sweet juice is contained. My companions set to work
to chew the pith of the valuable plant; and even Gringalet seemed to be just
as fond of it as they were.

Page 28

Not far from the cane-field, some Indians were working on a new
plantation. The ground was covered with ashes. The foreman explained to
us that when the canes are cut down, the first thing is to pull off the long
leaves, which are left on the ground. In eight days this rubbish is dried by
the tropical sun; they then set them on fire, and the ashes which result serve
as manure. Five or six Aztecs were cultivating this apparently sterile ground
by means of a primitive kind of plough, made of a mere stake attached to
circular discs of wood forming spokeless wheels; it was drawn by two oxen
yoked together.
Sumichrast took Lucien by the hand.
"In future," said he, "when you crunch a lump of sugar, you shall know
something of the manufacture of what you are eating. The sugar-cane is
called, in Latin, Saccharum officinale, that is, 'druggist's sugar,' because the
product of this plant was so rare that it was sold only at the druggists' shops.
The plant itself is said to be a native of India, and is, as you see, a tuft of
vegetation, from which spring six to twenty tall stalks, with joints varying,
both in number and in distance, from each other. The most esteemed
variety, the Tahiti cane, is striped with violet. The specimen you are looking
at is one of the most remarkable as regards size, for it must be nearly
thirteen feet high."
"It is like a stalk of maize," said the boy.
"That's true, except that maize has only one stem. Look, there's an Indian
about to cut down the very plant I was showing you; he has severed it
through obliquely at a single blow, as near the ground as possible. Now he
is stripping off the leaves, and with another blow of his weapon lops away
the green top, which is used for fodder. Next, he cuts it in lengths, taking
care to sever it between the knots, as they are required for planting new
ground."
"Planting!" repeated Lucien; "the knots are not seed?"
"No, Master 'Sunbeam;' the seed of the sugar-cane comes to maturity too
slowly. It takes four years to produce a plant from it which is profitable.
Now, as young fellows of your kind are rather numerous, and consume a
good many preserves and sugar-plums, it is highly necessary to devise some

Page 29

rapid method of supplying the sugar you devour. This method has been
found out. Each of these pieces of cane will be stuck into the earth, and the
knot, from which in the open air the leaves spring, will send down roots
into the soil. Small as it is, it will grow vigorously; and in a year, or
eighteen months at most, it will have produced a dozen stalks quite as fine
as the one you have been looking at."
During this long explanation l'Encuerado, who, on account of his load,
disliked standing still, had kept moving, so we had to increase our pace to
catch him up. As we were passing on, Lucien saw the Indian planting the
very pieces of cane he had just observed cut up. Ere long we came upon a
fresh plantation, in which the tender shoots, almost like grass, appeared
over the ground. Sumichrast dug a little hole round one of the plants, and
showed to his wondering pupil that the fragment of the stem was already
provided with small rootlets.
Suddenly, at the turn of a path, I was saluted by a man on horseback. It
was the steward of the estate that we were crossing.
"Hallo! Don Luciano, where are you off to with all that train?" cried the
new-comer.
"To visit the forest of the Cordillera," I replied.
"May you travel safely! but is the young gentleman going with you?"
"Yes, to be sure. Good-bye, Antonio, till we meet again!"
"Till we meet again? By my word, you shall not say that just yet. The
goodwife has some eggs and fried beans ready for breakfast; and I ought to
have some bottles of Spanish wine, in which we'll drink to your pleasant
journey, unless you're too proud to accept the hospitality of a poor man."
Being very hungry, with pleasure we accepted this cordial invitation.
The steward further insisted upon taking our little traveller up in front of
him. The child was only too pleased.
"Oh dear!" said Sumichrast; "why, it's spoiling the boy at the outset."
"It will be half a league the less for his poor legs," said Antonio; and,
spurring his horse, he galloped off with Lucien to get our breakfast ready.

Page 30

Gringalet was in consternation at his young master's departure. Raising
his intelligent face, he seemed as if he wished to question us, and pricked
up his ears as if to listen to the sound of the horse's feet dying away in the
distance. At last he raised a plaintive howl, and started off in pursuit.
Surprised at not seeing l'Encuerado, I turned back, fancying he had
remained behind. I was expecting to see him appear, when Sumichrast burst
out laughing. At a turn of the road he had caught a sight of the horseman,
with the dog on one side and the Indian on the other, who, in spite of his
load, kept up without difficulty.
This feat on the part of my servant did not much surprise me, for I do not
think that in the whole world there are any more indefatigable runners than
the Mistec Indians.
At twelve o'clock, just as the bell was calling home the laborers, I
entered the courtyard of the sugar-mill, where I caught sight of my
youngster sitting on the ground, with his dog at his feet, looking with
rapture at some ducks that were enjoying themselves in a muddy pool.

Page 31

Page 32

CHAPTER II.
SUGAR.—GRINGALET IN THE MOLASSES TANK.—L'ENCUERADO'S
OBSTINATE IDEA.—AN INDIAN SUPPER.

The breakfast was a cheerful one, thanks to the Spanish wine spoken of
by our host. The Indian laborers, with their wives and children, assembled
in inquisitive groups round the windows of the dwelling. Lucien certainly
carried the day, for he it was that they chiefly sought to see. As for
Gringalet, he was much less cordially received by his brother-dogs
belonging to the place; consequently, he scarcely left his young master's
side, and showed his teeth incessantly.
Sumichrast wishing, before we set out again, to explain to his pupil how
sugar was made, took him to the mill, situated in a wide rotunda. Here two
upright wooden cylinders, fitting close to one another, revolved on a pivot,
set in action by means of two oxen yoked together, crushing the canes
which an Aztec[C] was introducing between them. The machine groaned,
and seemed almost ready to fall to pieces under the impetus of the powerful
animals, which were urged on both by voice and gesture. Lucien remarked
that the canes were cut in lengths of about a yard, and bevelled off at the
ends, so as to be more readily caught between the two cylinders. After
having been subjected to this heavy pressure, they came out squeezed
almost dry, and the sweet juice, or sirup, flowed down into a large trough
hollowed out of the trunk of a tree.
As soon as this receptacle was full of juice, an enormous valve was
opened, and the turbid, muddy-looking liquid flowed along a trench, and
emptied into a brick reservoir. On its way it passed through the meshes of a
coarse bag, and was thus roughly filtered; it was then conveyed into
immense coppers placed over a hot furnace. The fragments of crushed cane,
having been rapidly dried in the sun, were used to feed the fire which boiled
the juice so lately squeezed out of them.
Near the aloe-fibre filtering-bag, in front of which the morsels of cane
and rubbish constantly accumulated, stood a little boy about twelve years

Page 33

old, whose duty it was to keep the passage clear. Lucien pulled my coat, to
call my attention to the fact that the lad had only one arm.
"How did you lose your left arm, pobricito?" I asked.
"Between the crushers, señor."
"Was it your own fault?"
"Alas! yes. My father looked after the machine, and I helped him to
drive the oxen; and he had forbidden my going near the cylinders. One day
he went away for a few minutes, and I tried to put a piece of cane between
the rollers; but my finger caught, and my arm was drawn in and crushed."
"It was a terrible punishment for your disobedience," I said.
"More terrible than you think, señor. My father died six months ago, and
I have several little brothers. If I had both my arms, I could earn a quarter of
a piastre a day, and also help my mother."
"How much do they give you for watching this filtering-bag from
morning till night?"
"Only a medio,"[D] he answered.
I looked hard at Lucien, who threw himself into my arms.
"Oh! I will always obey you," he cried, with emotion; "but do allow me
to give all the money in my purse to this little boy."
"Give him a piastre, my boy; we shall meet with others in want, and you
must reserve something for them."
"Oh! young gentleman," said the poor mutilated lad, looking with
wonder at the coin which represented sixteen days' work, "we will all pray
for you!"
And he hurried to clear out the bag, which was already too full.
The process adopted in the sugar-mill we speak of was of most primitive
simplicity. The European manufacturers employ iron cylinders turned by

Page 34

steam or water power; also lift and force pumps, which quickly convey the
sap into the basins in which it is to be clarified by fermentation.
But for comprehending easily all the operations required in the
extraction of sugar, Antonio's hacienda, in which every thing was done
before our eyes, was much preferable to any of the modern mills provided
with all kinds of improved apparatus.
When our young traveller saw the thick, muddy, and turbid liquid, which
was being stirred up by a gigantic "agitator," he could hardly believe that it
could ever produce the beautiful white crystal with which he was so well
acquainted.
"But where's the sugar?" he eagerly asked.
"There, in front of you," replied Sumichrast. "The sugar-cane, like all
other vegetables, contains a certain quantity of liquid, in which the sugar is
held in a state of solution; if this is removed, prismatic crystals immediately
form. Look now! the contents of the copper are just beginning to boil, and
are covered with a blackish scum, which is carefully skimmed off; for in
three or four days, when it has fermented, it will produce, by means of
distillation, the ardent spirit which l'Encuerado is so fond of. The cloud of
steam which is rising above the copper shows that the juice is evaporating;
in a few minutes more it will be converted into sirup, and will ultimately
form crystals. Come and see the result of the last operation."
We entered a large gallery, in which a number of moulds—made of
baked earth and shaped like reversed sugar-loaves—were ranged in lines
under the beams, like bottles in a bottle-rack. Into these, which had been
previously moistened, some laborers were pouring the boiling sirup. A little
farther on we were shown what had been boiled the day before, and was
crystallizing, assisted in the process by an Indian, who stirred it slowly.
From a trough, open at the lower end, a thick liquid was flowing, called
"molasses," or treacle, which is used for making rum, gingerbread, and for
other purposes. The lowest part of the sugar-loaf seemed, also, to be yellow
and sticky.
Passing through a dark passage, Lucien noticed two half-naked laborers,
who were moistening clay and converting it into a kind of dough.

Page 35

"What a nasty mess!" he cried, with a self-satisfied tone. "What would
mamma say, if she was here? It was only the other day she gave my brother
and sister a good scolding."
"What was it for?" I asked.
"For mixing up mud to build a town and reservoir in the long passage in
our house."
"What part did you take in it?"
"Oh, I was architect; but I was scolded as much as the others."
"That I can readily believe," replied Sumichrast, who could hardly keep
his gravity; "but come, let us follow these laborers, and you will soon see
that they are not mixing up this mud for mere pleasure."
To his great surprise, our little traveller saw them filling up, with a dark-
colored liquid, the empty part of the moulds, from which the molasses had
drained away.
"They are spoiling the sugar-loaves!" he cried.
"Quite the contrary; they are going to whiten it. The water that is
contained in the clay will filter gradually through the sugar, and will drive
before it the molasses that is left round the crystals; and this operation,
several times repeated, will produce that spongy kind of sugar which is well
known to retain a flavor of the cane, rather disliked by Europeans
accustomed to the finer products of their refineries."
The only department we now had to visit was the "drying-room," where
the sugar-loaves are piled up to dry, and wait for a purchaser.
In our way thither we nearly fell into an immense reservoir, level with
the surface of the ground, and full of molasses; the scum floating on the top
so exactly resembled the rough and sticky floor of the sugar-mill that it was
easy to make a mistake. Gringalet was unfortunate enough to be the cause
of our avoiding this accident. Restless, like all his kind, he ran smelling
about in every direction, just as if he was trying to find some lost object:
forcing his way between our legs, to get in front of us, he suddenly
disappeared in the thick liquid. I pulled him out directly; but as soon as he

Page 36

was on his feet, he rolled over and over on the ground, so that when he
stood up his coat was bristling with pieces of straw and wood; in fact, he
scarcely looked like a dog at all. I called him towards the pond outside, but
the poor brute was quite blind and confused, and did not seem to hear. As a
matter of course, all the laborers raised shouts of laughter; but poor Lucien,
fancying that his dog was going to die, followed him in despair. Gringalet,
no doubt wishing to comfort his young master, leaped upon him and
covered him with caresses, and of course with saccharine matter, in which
he so lately had a bath. As it was too late for any other course, I made up
my mind to laugh, like every one else. While l'Encuerado was washing the
dog, our hostess cleaned the boy's clothes, soon after which we resumed our
journey.
Don Antonio, like a real Mexican, pitied us for having to travel on foot
like Indians; he especially commiserated our young companion, and
thought, indeed, that we were very cruel.
"He must learn to use his legs; that's the reason why God gave them to
him," said Sumichrast, who delighted in an argument with the steward.
"What good are horses, then?"
"To break your neck. Besides, there are plenty of infirmities in life
without making one out of the horse."
"The horse an infirmity!" cried the Mexican.
"Yes, certainly—among your caste at least; for you could no more do
without a horse than a cripple without his crutch."
Don Antonio whistled without making any reply, and, untying his horse,
took Lucien up in front, and accompanied us for more than a league. At last,
as his duties called him home, he shook us by the hand and turned back.
Even after we had lost sight of him, we could still hear him wishing us a
pleasant journey.
We had to cross a wide prairie; the heat was suffocating, and we
marched on side by side in dead silence. Lucien's walking was much
hindered by his game-pouch and gourd, which, in spite of all his efforts,

Page 37

would work round in front of him. I soon noticed that he had got rid of the
troublesome gear.
"Hallo!" I cried, "what have you done with your provisions?"
"L'Encuerado wished to carry them for me."
"L'Encuerado's load is quite heavy enough now, and you must get
accustomed to your own. In a few days you won't feel it. Habit makes many
things easy which at first seem impossible."
"Señor," said l'Encuerado, "Chanito (this was the name he gave to
Lucien) is tired, and this is his first journey; I'll give him back all his things
to-morrow."
"It will be much better for him to get accustomed to them now. Give him
back his baggage, it is not too heavy for him; if you don't, you will be the
one to be scolded."
The Indian grumbled before he obeyed; then, taking the boy by the hand,
dropped behind, muttering to him:
"When you don't want to walk any more, Chanito, you must tell me, and
you shall ride on the top of my pack."
"No," said I, turning round; "if you do any thing of the kind, I will send
both of you home."
"My shoulders are my own," replied the Indian, earnestly; "surely I have
a right to employ them as I choose."
Sumichrast burst out laughing at this logic, and I was obliged to go on in
front, or I should have done the same. Nevertheless, I feared lest Lucien
should learn, on the very first day of his journey, to depend too much on
l'Encuerado's kindness. I was, therefore, pleased to hear him refuse several
times the Indian's offer of putting him up on his pack, an idea which the
faithful fellow persisted in with an obstinacy which I had long known him
to possess. A little time after—thinking, doubtless, that his dignity
compelled him to prove that he was easily able to increase the weight of his
load—he seized Gringalet, who was walking close behind lolling out his
tongue, and throwing the dog up on his back, and commencing an Indian

Page 38

trot, ran by us with a triumphant look. Gringalet was at first taken by
surprise, and, raising a cry of distress, wanted to jump down; but he soon
sat quiet enough, without displaying any uneasiness, to the great joy of my
son, who was much amused at the incident.
The plain which we were crossing seemed absolutely interminable.
"It's no use our walking," said Lucien; "we don't appear to make any
advance."
"Fortunately, you are mistaken," replied Sumichrast. "Look in front of
you, and you will see that the trees on ahead, which a short time ago looked
like one uninterrupted mass of foliage, can now be discerned separately."
"You mean the forest which we can see from here?"
"What you take for a forest is nothing but a few trees scattered about the
plain."
"Isn't M. Sumichrast wrong in that, father?"
"No, my boy; but those who have more experience than you might well
be mistaken, for when objects are seen at a distance they always seem to
blend together in a group. This morning, for instance, when we were
walking along the main road, you were always exclaiming that it ended in a
point; but you were convinced that your eyes deceived you. It is just the
same now: these trees appear to be farther apart in proportion as we
approach them; and you will be quite surprised presently when you see how
distant they are from each other. The same illusion is produced by the stars,
which are millions of miles apart, and yet appear so thick in the sky, that
your brother Emile was regretting, the other night, that he was not tall
enough to grasp a handful of them."
"And don't forget," added Sumichrast, "that light and imagination often
combine to deceive us."
"Just as in the fable of the 'Camels and the floating sticks.'"
"Bravo! my young scholar; you've heard that fable?"

Page 39

"Yes. One evening I was going into a dimly-lighted room, and I fancied I
saw a great gray man seated in a chair; I cried out, and ran away, afraid.
Then papa took me by the hand and led me into the dark room again, and I
found that the giant which had frightened me so much was nothing but a
pair of trowsers, thrown over the back of an arm-chair. The next day
mamma made me learn the fable of the 'Camels.'"
I restrained his ardor, as I
wished to keep our boxes
andOn our road I called
Lucien's attention to a small
thorny shrub, a kind of
mimosa, called huizachi by
the Indians, who use its pods
for dyeing black cloth, and for
making a tolerably useful ink.
The plain assumed by degrees
a less monotonous aspect.
Butterflies began to hover
round us, and our young
naturalist wanted to
commence insect-hunting.
needles free for the rarer
species which we might
expect to find as soon as we
had reached more uninhabited
districts. At last, lagging a
little, our party reached the
foot of the mountains.
It was now five o'clock; "At last, lagging a little, our party
night was coming on, so it reached the foot of the mountains."
was highly necessary to look
out for shelter. We came in view of a bamboo-hut in the nick of time. An
old Indian was reclining in front of it, warming his meagre limbs in the rays
of the setting sun, clad in nothing but a pair of drawers and a hat with a torn
brim. He rose as we came near, and proffered us hospitality. His wife,
whose costume consisted of a cotton shirt edged with red thread, came

Page 40

running in answer to his call, and was quite in raptures at the prettiness of
the "little white traveller," who completely ingratiated himself by saluting
her in her own language. We had accomplished a journey of seven leagues,
although Lucien, thanks to Don Antonio's horse, had not walked quite so
far.
The aborigines set before us rice and beans. After this frugal repast,
washed down with cold water, I wanted Lucien to lie down on a large mat;
but the restless little being took advantage of his elders being comfortably
stretched out to sleep, and ran off to see our hostess's fowls roosting for the
night on a dead tree, and then to prowl up and down in company with
l'Encuerado. The latter had ferreted out a three-corded guitar which was in
the hut, and strummed away at the same tune for hours together—no doubt
to the great pleasure of the boy, although to us it was quite the reverse.
At last our bedding was unrolled, and I enjoined repose on all. Gringalet
couched down in the hut, at the feet of his young master. L'Encuerado,
however, preferred sleeping in the open air, only too happy, as he said, to
see the sky above, and to feel the wind blow straight into his face without
having to be filtered through walls and windows.

Page 41

Page 42

CHAPTER III.
WAKING UP IN THE MORNING.—THE PIGMY WORLD OF LILLIPUT.—
L'ENCUERADO AND THE BOTTLES.—MASSACRE OF THISTLES.—THE
CHARCOAL-BURNING INDIANS.

I rose long before day and woke my companion. Lucien rubbed his eyes
two or three times, trying in vain to make out where he was. After some
moments, drawing the coverlet over him, he turned round to go to sleep
again.
"Now, then, young Lazybones!" I cried, "don't you hear the cock
crowing, telling us we ought to be on our road? Jump up and look round,
and you will see the birds and the insects are already busy."
The child got up, appearing half stupefied, and stretched himself with a
long yawn.
"Oh, papa!" he said, "I ache all over; I'm sure I shall never be able to
walk."
"You are quite mistaken," I replied, half supporting him. "You only feel a
little tired and stiff; your limbs will very soon work as freely as ever. Go
and warm yourself by the fire, where our kind hostess is preparing coffee."
The little fellow did as he was told; but he limped sadly.
"Do your legs feel like mine?" he asked of l'Encuerado.
"No, Chanito; we did not walk far enough yesterday for that."
"You can't mean that we haven't walked far? Papa says that we are now
seven leagues from Orizava."
"Yes; that may seem a great deal to you, and perhaps too much; that is
why I wanted to put you up on the top of my pack. Now, come, let me see
where you suffer."
"All over my limbs, but particularly inside my knees."

Page 43

"Wait a minute, and I'll soon cure you."
L'Encuerado then laid Lucien down in front of the fire, and began to rub
him after the Indian method, vigorously shampooing the whole of his body.
Next he made him walk and run with the longest strides he could take; and,
after repeating this process, brought him a cup of boiling coffee. Having
been revived and strengthened in this way, the lad quite recovered his
sprightliness, and soon asked when we were going to start.
I gave a small present to the old couple who had so kindly
accommodated us, and our little party began its second day's work;
Gringalet sniffing the breeze, and evidently enjoying the excursion as much
as any of the party.
When the sun rose, the sky was covered with grayish clouds, driven
along quickly by a north wind; but the weather was cool, and well adapted
to walking. A limestone mountain rose right in front of us, the slope of
which we had to climb; but ere we reached the top, we halted at least
twenty times to take breath. Our little companion, with his head bent down
towards the ground, struggled to retain his place by our side. At last we
reached the summit, and felt at liberty to rest.
Casting a glance on the plain beneath us, the boy surveyed a vast prairie,
dotted over with clumps of bushes. He silently contemplated the panorama
which was spread out beneath, although he failed to completely
comprehend all that he saw.
"Look at those black spots moving about over the plain," said he.
"They are oxen," I replied.
"Oxen! Why they are scarcely as big as Gringalet."
"Don't you know that you must not trust to appearances? Recollect the
trees you saw yesterday, which you thought were a forest."
"But if, from this height, the oxen appear no larger than sheep, the sheep
ought not to look greater than flies."
"You can easily judge; there is a flock of goats down below."

Page 44

"A flock of goats! It is like a swarm of ants."
"Exactly; but look at them through the telescope."
Availing himself of the glass, which he used rather unskillfully, Lucien
raised a sudden cry.
"I see them! I see them!" he exclaimed. "How pretty they are! They are
running about and crowding together, in front of a little boy who is driving
them."
"It is most likely a man, who is diminished by the distance."
"The idea of men of that size!"
"Well, look at the foot of that wooded hill; the thin line which you might
easily take for a mere pathway is the main road. Perhaps you may see an
Indian family travelling along it."
Lucien kept shifting his telescope about for some minutes without
descrying any thing; but at last he broke out in a fresh exclamation.
"Have you discovered any men?" I asked.
"Oh yes!—men, horses, and mules; but they are regular Lilliputians."
"You are quite right," said Sumichrast; "how do we know that Dr. Swift
did not first form his idea of 'Gulliver's Travels' from looking at the world
from the top of a high mountain?"
After a time, I was obliged to take the young observer away from this
point for contemplation to proceed on our journey. The ridge of the
mountain was soon crossed, and we began to descend the other side. I took
Lucien by the hand, for the slope was so steep that it needed the utmost care
to avoid rolling down over the naked rocks. Several times I slipped, and
scratched my legs among the bushes. Sumichrast, who had taken his turn in
looking after the boy, was no better off than myself. The descent was so
steep that we were often forced to run, and sometimes the only thing
possible to retard our impetus was to fall down, and run the risk of being
hurt. Therefore, in spite of Lucien's promise to walk prudently and with
measured step, I declined to allow him to go alone. We at last, to our great

Page 45

satisfaction, got over about
two-thirds without any
accident, when l'Encuerado,
losing his equilibrium, fell,
turning head over heels
several times; the basket and
its bearer chasing one another
down the hill, finally
disappearing into a thicket.
"Look after Lucien," I said
to my companion, who was a
few paces in front. And I
dashed forward anxiously to
assist l'Encuerado.
I feared that I should find
the unfortunate Indian with
some of his bones broken,
even if not killed; so I called
to him, when he replied
almost immediately; but his
voice sounded not from
"The basket and its bearer chased one below, but from a spot a little
another down the hill." to my left. I could not stay my
rapid course except by
grasping a tuft of brush-wood, to which I hung. Then, turning towards the
left, I soon encountered the Mistec, who had already begun to collect his
burden.
"Nothing broken?" I asked.
"No, Tatita; all the bottles are safe."
"It's your limbs that I mean, my poor fellow!"
"Oh! my nose and arms are a little scratched, and my body is rather
knocked about; but there's not a single rent either in my jacket or breeches,"

Page 46

added he, looking with complacency at the leathern garments which had
given him the name of l'Encuerado.
"Well, you have had a narrow escape."
"Oh! señor, God is good! In spite of the basket-work case, the bottles
might have been broken, and they are not the least hurt."
For my part, I was more inclined to recognize God's goodness in
l'Encuerado's almost miraculous preservation. As to the basket, the Indian
had tied it up so strongly, that I was not at all surprised to find that our
provisions were uninjured.
"Give a call-cry," said I to the Indian, "Sumichrast can not see us, and
may think that you are killed."
"Chanito, hiou, hiou, hiou, Chanito!"
"Ohé! ohé!" replied Lucien.
And the boy, looking pale and alarmed, almost immediately made his
appearance. He rushed up to his friend, threw his arms round his neck, and
embraced him. The brave Mistec, who had been but little injured by his
terrible descent, could not help weeping at this proof of Lucien's
attachment.
"It was nothing but a joke," he said. "You'll see me perform many a feat
like that."
"Your face is all over with blood!"
"That's a mere joke, too. Would you like me to do it again?"
"No, no!" cried the child, catching the Indian by the jacket.
I dressed l'Encuerado's hurts, and we were about to continue our journey.
"I say," said Lucien, archly, just as the Indian was hoisting his basket on
to his back; "how would it have been if I had been perched on it?"
"Then I should not have fallen," replied l'Encuerado, with the utmost
gravity.

Page 47

In a minute or two more we were at the foot of the mountain, when
Lucien, overjoyed that the descent was accomplished, gave a leap which
showed me that the back of his trowsers had suffered in the late struggle.
"There's a pretty beginning!" I cried; "how did you manage to get your
trowsers in that state?"
"It is my fault," said Sumichrast, with consternation; "wishing to
descend more rapidly, and fearing another tumble, I advised him to sit down
and slide carefully. I did not foresee the very natural results of such a plan."
"Well, papa! it does not matter in the country."
"If my advice had been taken," broke in l'Encuerado, "he would have
had a pair of leathern pantaloons, which wouldn't suffer from such
contingencies. Never mind, Chanito, we'll mend them with the skin of the
first squirrel which comes within reach of my gun."
We were now passing through a dark gorge full of thick brush-wood. In
front of us rose a wooded mountain, which we had to climb. The shrubs
were succeeded by gigantic thistles, which compelled us to advance with
extreme care. These troublesome plants grew so thickly that we were
obliged to use our knives to clear a passage. L'Encuerado, putting down his
load, taught Lucien how to handle his; showing him that a downward cut, if
the weapon slipped or met with but little resistance, might be dangerous.
Enchanted with his lesson, and cutting down several stalks at a blow, our
young pioneer soon opened for us an avenue rather than a path. The thistles
gradually became fewer. Sumichrast walked in front, destroying the last
obstacles that severed us from the under-wood.
It was now breakfast-time, and as we continued our course we looked
out for a favorable spot to halt at, when the measured strokes of an axe fell
upon our ears. This noise told of the presence of wood-cutters, who were
certain to be provided with maize-cakes and beans; so we resolved to make
our way up to them, and thus economize our own resources. After an hour's
difficult ascent, just as we were despairing of reaching the Indian, whose
axe had ceased to sound, Lucien cried out:
"Look, papa, there's a fire!"

Page 48

At the same moment Gringalet began barking furiously, and a few paces
more brought us to a burning charcoal-oven. The charcoal-burner, who was
surprised at our visit, seized his long-handled axe. But the presence of the
child appeared to reassure him.
"Good-morning, Don José," said I, using the common name which is
applied in Mexico to all the Indians.
"God preserve you," replied he, speaking in broken Spanish.
"Are you all alone?"
"No. I have six companions."
"Well, will one of you sell us some maize-cakes, and give us some
water?"
"We have neither water nor cakes."
"I'm quite sure you will be able to find some," I replied, placing a half-
piastre in his hand.
The Indian took off his straw hat, scratched his forehead, and then,
placing two fingers in his mouth, whistled a prolonged note. Almost
immediately the foliage was pushed aside, and a boy about fifteen years
old, wearing nothing but a pair of drawers, made his appearance, and
halted, as if terrified at the sight of us.
"Run to the hut, and ask for cakes and some capsicums, and bring them
here," said the wood-cutter, in the Aztec language.
"It's quite needless," I replied, in the same idiom; "we can breakfast
much more comfortably in the hut."
The wood-cutter looked at me in artless admiration, then taking my
hand, placed it on his breast. I spoke his language, and I was therefore his
friend. This is a feeling common to all men, whatever may be their
nationality or social position.
Following the young Indian, in five minutes we reached a very primitive
dwelling; being but four stakes supporting a roof made of branches with

Page 49

their leaves on. The wood-
men in Mexico construct such
temporary places of shelter,
for at the commencement of
the rainy season they cease to
dwell in the forests.
An Indian girl warmed us a
dozen of those maize-flour
fritters, which are called
tortillas, and are eaten by the
natives instead of bread. She
also brought us a calabash full
of cooked beans, which
hunger rendered delicious.
"Why don't they serve the
meat first?" asked Lucien.
"Because they have none,"
replied Sumichrast.
"Haven't these Indians any
meat? Poor fellows! How will
they dine, then?" "Almost immediately the foliage was
pushed aside."
"Don't you know that the
Indians never eat meat more than three or four times a year; and that their
usual food is composed of nothing but black beans, rice, capsicums, and
maize flour? Have you forgotten our dinner yesterday?"
"I fancied that we had arrived too late for the first course, and that all the
meat had been used. But shall we live on beans the whole of our journey?"
"No; our meals will not be quite so regular as you seem to think. Yet we
shall have plenty of meat when we have been lucky in shooting, a little rice
when we have been unfortunate, and fried beans whenever chance throws in
our way any inhabited hut."

Page 50

"And we shall have to go without dessert?" said the child, making up his
face into a comical pout.
"Oh no, Chanito, there will be dessert to-day," replied l'Encuerado.
"Perhaps as good as the cook would provide at home; but, at any rate, it is
sweet enough. Look at it!"
The Indian girl brought a calabash full of water, and a cone of black
sugar, weighing about half a pound.
"What is that?" cried Lucien.
"Panela," answered the Indian girl.
"Poor man's sugar," interposed Sumichrast. "The manufacture of white
sugar, which you saw yesterday, costs a good deal, for the laborers
employed to make it have to work night and day, and thus it becomes
expensive. Now, some sugar-makers avoid all this outlay, and they merely
boil the juice, so that it will harden in cooling. This dark-colored sugar costs
about one-half as much in making as the other."
"I can well believe it," said the child; "but it contains all that nasty scum
which we saw."
"That makes it the nicer," said l'Encuerado; "it has a richer flavor."
And taking a morsel of the panela, he soaked it in the water in the
calabash and sucked it.
When Lucien saw that we, too, imitated the Indian, he soon made up his
mind to do likewise, the sweet taste overcoming his repugnance.
When we had finished, our young companion was anxious to know how
charcoal was made. Sumichrast led him close to a recently-felled oak, the
small branches of which an Indian was cutting into pieces two or three
inches long, by means of an instrument something like an enormous
pruning-knife. A little farther, on the open ground, two men were collecting
these pieces of wood in circular rows. This pile was already seven feet in
circumference, and about the same in height, although it was not half
finished. Lucien could easily see this when he approached the Indian who
was looking after the lighted furnace, in which the wood, completely

Page 51

covered with earth, formed a kind of dome, from the summit of which a
blue flame was hovering, proving that the mass inside was in a red-hot
state. The Indian kept walking round and round the furnace, plastering
damp earth on any holes through which the flame started. For, as
Sumichrast properly observed, a charcoal of good quality must be
smothered while it is being burned.
"Suppose the fire went out?" said Lucien.
"Then all the work must be begun over again."
"But the fire might burn only one side."
"They would then have badly-burned charcoal, nearly half wood, which
would cause a bad smell when it was used. The wood in the oven we are
looking at will be entirely charred to-night; for the fire, which was lighted
at the centre, is trying to break through all round the outside. Before long
the Indians will cover up the opening at the top, over which the blue flame
is hovering. The fire will then be quite deprived of air, and soon afterwards
go out. In about eight days your mamma may perhaps buy this very
charcoal which you have seen burned."
"Suppose the charcoal went on burning?"
"Then the Indian, to his great vexation, would find nothing left but
ashes. But he will take good care not to lose the fruit of his labor. He will
use as many precautions to prevent the fire burning up again as he does now
to hinder it going out."
A little farther on a man was filling up his rush bags with charcoal which
had cooled. As it would take him more than one day to reach the town, he
was lining his sacks with a kind of balm, the penetrating odor of which
always announces, in Mexico, the approach of a charcoal-carrier. This plan
is adopted to preserve the charcoal from damp.
"When I used to see the Indians carrying on their backs their four little
sacks of charcoal," said Lucien, "I had no idea that they were obliged to live
in the woods, and cut down great trees to procure it; and that they had to
pass several nights in watching the oven."

Page 52

"No more idea, perhaps," I replied, "than the little boys in Europe have
of the sugar-cane plantations; and that without the plant all those beautiful
bon-bons, which delight the sight as much as the taste, could not be made."
"But, papa, haven't I heard you tell the Mexicans that in France they
make sugar with beet-root?"
"Yes, certainly you have; and, in case of need, it might be extracted from
many other roots, plants, or fruit; but beet-root alone yields enough sugar to
repay the trouble of extraction."
It was quite time for us to be off; so I put an end to the ceaseless
questions of the young traveller.
Our host told me that if we went on along the same path which had led
us to their place, we should come, in less than two hours, to a hut situated
on the plateau of the mountain. The Indians certainly seemed to forget that
Lucien's short legs might delay our progress.

Page 53

CHAPTER IV.
A DIFFICULT ASCENT.—THE GOAT.—THE INDIAN GIRLS.—THE
TOBACCO-PLANT.—THE BULL-FIGHT.—GAME.—LUCIEN'S GUN.—
OUR ENTRY INTO THE WILDERNESS.

Our way led through nothing but scrub oaks, for all the larger trees had
gradually disappeared from the mountain-side, which had for some time
been cultivated by the Indians. The path was steep, rugged, and stony; and
seemed, at first, to defy any attempt to scale it. Notwithstanding the
measured pace at which we were walking, we were obliged to stop every
minute to recover our breath. Lucien followed us so eagerly that I was
obliged to check him several times. He was surprised at not seeing any
living creature, not even those beautiful golden flies which, in Mexico,
flutter round every bush. But the north wind was blowing, and the sun was
hidden behind the clouds, so that both the insects and birds kept in the
deepest recesses of their hiding-places. As we advanced, our road became
much steeper, and we were obliged to cling to the shrubs for support.
L'Encuerado, who was impeded by the weight of his load, pulled himself up
with his hands, so had hard work to keep his balance. Soon it became
impossible for him to go farther; but, fortunately, we had foreseen ascents
of this kind. So I gave the child into Sumichrast's charge, for if he had been
left to climb by himself, he would most likely have rolled over and hurt
himself against the stumps or sharp rocks.
I made my way into a copse, and with my machete I cut down a
moderately-sized branch, the end of which I sharpened to a point. Then,
going forward and unrolling a leathern thong, thirty feet in length, and
commonly called by us a lasso, I fastened it to the stake, which I drove
firmly into the ground. By means of this support, which served as a sort of
hand-rail, l'Encuerado could clamber up to me, thanks to the strength of his
wrists. Ten times this awkward job had to be repeated, and the path, instead
of getting better, became worse. We then shifted our work, and I took
charge of the load, while the tired Indian fixed the lasso. I was just making
my third ascent, when Sumichrast, who had gone on before us to
reconnoitre the ground, made his appearance above. When he saw me

Page 54

stumbling and twisting about, falling now on my side, and now on my
knees, toiling to advance a single step, my companion burst into a fit of
laughter. I had then neither time nor will to do as he did, and his ill-timed
mirth vexed me. At last I caught hold of the stake, bruised and exhausted,
and ready to wish there was no such thing as travelling. Sumichrast told us
that we had scarcely three hundred feet more to ascend, and shouldered the
basket himself. Now that I was a mere spectator, I could readily forgive him
his fit of merriment. Nothing, in fact, could be more grotesque than the
contortions he went through trying to keep his balance. L'Encuerado was
the only one who retained his countenance. As for Lucien, he seemed to feel
the efforts of Sumichrast as much as if they were his own.
"You see," I said to my son, "that in countries where there are no beaten
roads a walk is not always an easy matter."
At last, we got out of this difficult locality. While all this was going on,
Gringalet, gravely squatting down upon his haunches, seemed perfectly
amazed at our efforts. Pricking up his ears and winking his eyes, he quietly
surveyed us; no doubt secretly congratulating himself upon being able to
run and gambol easily in places where we, less-suitably-constructed bipeds,
found it difficult even to walk.
Here there were no trees to be seen. As on the evening before, we
traversed a granite surface soil which formed the ridge of the mountain; but
a sudden turn in the path led us to a plateau, on which stood a rudely-built
hut.
Three children ran away as we came near, and two lean dogs began to
prowl round Gringalet with any thing but friendly intentions. A goat, which
was quietly cropping the scanty grass, suddenly raised its head, and, cutting
several capers, ran with its head bent down, as if to butt our little
companion. I could not reach the spot in time to prevent this unforeseen
attack, nevertheless I shouted, in hopes of intimidating the animal; but
Gringalet, who was far more nimble than I, boldly faced the enemy, and
soon forced him to retreat.
"Weren't you afraid of him?" asked Sumichrast.
"Rather," answered Lucien, hanging down his head.

Page 55

"Well, it did not prevent you facing the foe."
"If I had run away, the goat, who runs a great deal faster than I can,
would soon have overtaken me. I waited for him, so as to frighten him with
my stick, and, if possible, avoid his horns."
"You could not have acted more sensibly. At all events you've plenty of
coolness, and that is about the best quality a traveller can show."
"All right now, but in future I shall keep clear of goats. But I thought
they were afraid of men."
"Not always, as you were very near finding out to your cost. Perhaps,
however," continued Sumichrast, smiling, "your enemy did not look upon
you quite as a man; and, after all, I fancy he thought more of playing with
you than of hurting you, for he must be thoroughly accustomed to the sight
of children."
At this moment Gringalet came running up with his tail between his
legs, and with a most doleful look; he was closely pursued by all the dogs
of the plateau, who, instead of barking, were making a kind of howling
noise, common to those that are but half domesticated.
On hearing all this uproar, two Indian women came running towards us,
but stopped, abashed at our appearance.
The youngest of them, rather a pretty girl, wore nothing but a short linen
chemise, and a piece of blue woollen stuff fastened round her hips by a
wide band, ornamented with red threads. Her hair, which was plaited and
brought over her forehead, formed a sort of coronet. Her companion, who
was dressed in a similar way, wore, in addition, a long scarf, which was
fixed to her head, and fell round her like a nun's cloak.
"God bless you, Maria!" I said to the eldest. "Can you take us in for one
night?"
"I have nothing to offer you to eat, I am afraid."
"Perhaps you can sell us a fowl and some eggs."
"Well, I must see if my husband objects to guests."

Page 56

"Surely your husband will
not refuse the shelter of his
roof to weary travellers?"
She reflected for a
moment, and then answered,
"No, he is a Christian!
Come in and rest yourselves."
The Indian woman called
to her children, who one after
the other showed their wild-
looking heads peeping out
from some hiding-place, and
ordered them to drive away
the dogs.
It was not without some
degree of pleasure we got rid
of our travelling gear, as we
felt no ordinary amount of
weariness, which was easily
accounted for by the exertion
"On hearing the uproar, two Indian of our recent ascent.
women came running towards us." L'Encuerado, always brisk,
began to assist the housewife;
he stirred up the fire, arranged the plates, and looked to their being clean.
The Indian woman then asked him to go and draw some water from a
spring about a hundred yards from the hut; and off he went, led by the
children of our hostess. His young guides, completely naked, and their
heads shaved, rode on bamboo-canes as make-believe horses, and pranced
along in front of him.
Except on the side we had just ascended, the plateau was entirely
surrounded by high mountains. The hut, which was built of planks and
covered with thatch, appeared very cleanly kept. Behind it extended a small
kitchen garden, in which fennel, the indispensable condiment in Aztec
cookery, grew in great abundance; in front, there was a large tobacco

Page 57

plantation, and an inclosure where both goats and pigs lived on good terms
with each other. The situation appeared somewhat dull to us; but in the
tropics the absence of sunshine is sufficient to give a sombre look to the
most beautiful landscape.
Lucien wanted to pay a visit to the tobacco-field. The stems of this plant
are more than three feet high, covered with wide leaves of a dark-green
color. The flowers, some of which were pink and others a yellowish hue,
indicated two different species; their acrid smell was any thing but pleasant.
Lucien was not a little surprised to learn that this beautiful vegetable
belonged to the same botanical family as the potato, the tomato, the egg-
plant, and the pimento.
"Among the ancient Aztecs," said Sumichrast, "tobacco was called
pycietl; it was the emblem of the goddess Cihua-cohuatl, or woman-serpent.
[E] In Mexican mythology, this divinity was supposed to be the first mother
of children; and, in the legend about her, the European missionaries fancied
that they recognized some features resembling the sacred history of Eve. Up
to the present time, the Indians, who have renounced the errors of paganism
and profess the Christian religion, continue to make use of the plant
consecrated to their ancient goddess, as a remedy for the sting of venomous
reptiles."
"Then that is why they cultivate tobacco," said Lucien, "for I know that
they seldom smoke."
"No, but they sell their crops of it to the Creoles, among whom smoking
is a universal habit. It is said that the word tobacco comes from the name of
the island of Tabago, where the Spaniards first discovered it. About the year
1560, it was introduced into France by Jean Nicot, who gave it his own
name; for savants call this plant nicotian. It is a certain fact that the modern
Mexican Indians smoke hardly any thing but cigars or cigarettes. As for
pipes, they have not long known of the existence of such things; and the
works of certain romancers, who so often describe the Aztecs as having the
pipe of peace, war, or council constantly in their mouths, are simply
ridiculous. You may recollect how astonished the French were, on their
arrival here, to find they could not procure any cut tobacco; while on the

Page 58

other hand the Indians crowded to see the foreigners inhale the smoke of the
plant from instruments made of clay, wood, or porcelain."[F]
"I remember," cried Lucien, "that one day l'Encuerado took a pipe
belonging to an officer who was staying with papa and began to smoke it.
You should have seen what horrible faces he made."
"Well, what happened to him?" asked Sumichrast.
"The pipe made him sick, and then papa, who knew nothing about his
smoking, gave him some medicine; but l'Encuerado told me that the
medicine was not nearly so nasty as the pipe."
The culprit, who had just joined us, cast down his eyes at this tale about
him, and murmured in a sententious tone of voice, "Pipes are an invention
of the devil."[G]
Followed by my companions, I again drew near to the hut, and the
master came out to bid us welcome. Our hostess placed upon a mat an
earthen dish containing a fowl cooked with rice, and the Indian, his wife,
and his sister-in-law, offered to wait on us. Lucien invited the children to
partake of our repast; but they refused to sit down beside us. Towards the
conclusion of our dinner, one of them brought us half a dozen bananas,
which were most welcome; while we were drinking our coffee, the little
troop made up a game of hide-and-seek. To my great satisfaction, I saw
that, in spite of the long day's journey, Lucien joined in, and ran and jumped
about with as much energy as his play-mates.
At last the children got tired of this game, and, bringing a kid, had a
mock bull-fight. The animal, wonderfully well trained to the sport, ran after
the youngsters, and more than once succeeded in knocking them down.
When Lucien met this fate, Gringalet became furious and sprang upon the
pretty little creature; but the dog's young master got up in a moment and
soon quieted his protector's energy. We had noticed, ever since we set out,
that Gringalet always preferred to follow close to the boy, and seemed to
have taken upon himself the task of watching over his safety.
Our host told us that he was born and also married in the village of
Tenejapa; but being enlisted for a soldier by force, he deserted and took up
his abode on this plateau. We were the first white men who had paid him a

Page 59

visit for six years. His fields produced maize, beans, and tobacco, which his
wife and sister-in-law took twice a year to Orizava to exchange for
necessaries for housekeeping. He was as happy as possible, and was never
tired of praising the charms of forest and plain. But his raptures were not
required to convert us to his opinions.
Nightfall was accompanied by cold, to which we were but little
accustomed. The Indians lent us some mats; then we all wrapped ourselves
up, and were soon asleep, notwithstanding the primitiveness of our couch.
About two in the morning I woke up numbed from the lowness of the
temperature; Lucien also was nearly frozen. I hastened to cover him up with
my sarapé, for on these heights we were exposed to the north wind blowing
from the volcano of Citlatepetl, and the atmosphere would not get warm
again until sunrise. Sumichrast soon joined me; he had also given up his
covering to the child. I then set to work to look for some small branches to
light the fire; but our movements ultimately roused up our host, and, thanks
to him, we were soon able to sit down in front of a powerful blaze. Still
l'Encuerado, from force of habit, who was hardly sheltered at all, was
sleeping like a top. At last, aided by the heat, sleep resumed its influence,
and I dropped off again in slumber.
When I awoke, the sun was shining in a cloudless sky, and every body
was up. Sumichrast was inspecting the arms and ammunition, for from this
day forward we should have to provide our own subsistence. I was quite
surprised at the time I had been asleep; but a slight touch of lumbago
reminded me of yesterday's difficult ascent, which fully accounted for my
drowsiness. I must confess I felt much more inclined to go to bed again than
to continue our journey; but, as I was obliged to set a good example, I
began to help my companions in their preparations for departure. I have
already described the dress of Lucien and l'Encuerado; Sumichrast's
costume and mine also consisted of strong cloth trowsers, and a blouse
made of the same stuff. The weapons of each were a revolver, a machete, a
double-barrelled gun, and a game-bag filled with necessaries. We duly
examined the contents of the basket, which l'Encuerado carried on his back
by a strap fixed across his breast or forehead. Sumichrast then took out a
long parcel he had put into the basket when we started, and unrolled the
cloth which formed its first covering. His smile and mysterious look quite

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puzzled us; at last he drew from the paper a light fowling-piece, which he
placed in Lucien's hands.
The boy blushed and trembled with joy, and became quite pale with
anxiety. He hardly dared to believe that his fondest dream was thus realized.
He could not speak for pleasure, but threw himself into my friend's arms. I
was as much surprised as he was. I had often thought of giving Lucien a
gun; but I was so afraid of an accident that I had decided not to do so.
"Oh, Chanito! I pity the poor tigers; what a number of them you will
kill!" exclaimed the old hunter. "What beautiful skins you will be able to
take home to mamma! Come, let me handle your gun; it looks as if it was
made on purpose for you. Oh! how I pity the poor tigers!"
And he began to dance about with the energy of delight.

It was decided that the gun should always be loaded by us, and that
Lucien should only shoot under our directions. I also added that, at the least
infringement of these rules, the gun would be taken away, and the little
fellow well knew I would keep my word. In vain I advised him to put back
his gun into the basket; but this was almost too much to expect, so I allowed
him to carry it, which he did with great pride. Lucien said good-bye to his
little companions, and I thanked
After a good breakfast, we regulated our compasses. the Indian women
for all their attention to us. Our host, however, accompanied us to the
summit of the mountain.

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There we found ourselves
in a vast amphitheatre,
commanded on all sides by
wooded ridges; at our feet
stretched the plateau we had
just crossed, and far beneath
us we caught indistinct
glimpses of the plain below.
Behind us opened a dark,
narrow ravine, with
perpendicular sides, almost
like an immense wall. Above
us was the pale blue sky,
dotted over with vultures.
On the verge of the forest
our guide parted from us with
regret, and wished us a
successful journey.
Sumichrast loaded Lucien's
gun, and told him to fire it off
as a salute on our entering the
wilderness. The shot was
"Behind us opened a dark, narrow fired, the echoes
ravine, with perpendicular sides." reverberating in succession,
each louder than the last; then
all was once more silent. After casting a last look over the valley, I was the
first to make my way into the forest. From this moment we had only God's
providence and our own exertions to trust to; for every step we advanced
only took us farther from the haunts of men.

Page 62

Page 63

CHAPTER V.
THE GREAT FOREST.—CROWS.—THE FIRST BIVOUAC.—THE
SQUIRREL-HUNT.—OUR YOUNG GUIDE.—THE CHANT IN THE
DESERT.

We were now more than 5000 feet above the level of the sea, and the
coldness of the breeze quite surprised my son, who, being accustomed to
the climate of the Terre-Tempérée, had never before felt any thing like the
atmosphere we were now in. As if by instinct, he held his fingers in his
mouth, to prevent their getting numbed. But when the sun had reached a
certain height, there was no longer any need to complain of the cold.
As we advanced, the trees grew closer and closer together. Lucien, who
now for the first time saw these enormous trees, to whom centuries were no
more than years are to us, seemed strongly impressed at the sight of their
gigantic proportions. He almost doubted the reality of the scene which met
his eyes. Having previously seen the pigmy world of Lilliput from the top
of a mountain, he was now ready to inquire if this was not another illusion,
exhibiting to him the empire of one of those giants whose marvellous
histories his mamma had related to him. An oak-tree which had fallen
across our path gave him a good opportunity of measuring its size, the
limbs of which seemed to touch the sky. The ancient trunk was black,
wrinkled, and partly buried in the earth by the weight of its fall; even as it
lay prostrate, it was several feet higher than ourselves, while the large
branches, scattered and broken, were equal in diameter to the biggest
chestnut-trees. A flapping of wings suddenly attracted our attention, and we
saw two couples of enormous crows take flight, saluting us as they went
with a prolonged croaking.
"Be off with you, children of the evil one!" cried l'Encuerado; "you've no
chance of frightening us, we are too good Christians for that!"
"Whom are you calling to?" asked Lucien, who looked round him with
surprise.
"To the crows, of course."

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"Do you believe that they can understand you?"
"Not the least doubt about it, Chanito. These scoundrels are harder in
their flesh than they are in their hearing; and just because they are dressed
up in a beautiful black coat, like that your papa wears on festival days, they
think to have every thing their own way. But if one of them dares to come
to-night and prowl round our fire, I'll kill and roast him, as sure as my name
is l'Encuerado!"
The boy opened his eyes very wide at this, for he was always astonished
at the whims of the Indian, who never failed to interpret the cries and
gestures of animals according to his own fancy, and to give a sharp
rejoinder to the imaginary provocations which, as he considered, were
offered to him. Sometimes, even, he laid the blame on inanimate things, and
then his conversations with them were most amusing. The old hunter had no
doubt contracted this habit at a time when, living alone in the woods and
feeling the need of talking, he conversed with himself, having no one else to
address. However this might be, he kept up conversation with either a leaf
or a bird in perfectly artless sincerity.
For four hours we proceeded through the forest, feeling almost
overcome with the heat. Pines and oaks appeared, one after another, in
almost monotonous regularity. Gradually the ground began to slope, and the
altered pace we had to adopt both rested us and also increased the speed of
our march. At length we emerged into a valley. The vegetation was now of
an altered character, the ceibas, lignum-vitæ trees, and creepers were here
and there to be seen.
"Halt!" I cried out.
I soon got rid of my travelling gear, an example my companions were
not slow in following. L'Encuerado and Lucien immediately set to work to
find some dry branches, while Sumichrast and I began to cut down the grass
over a space of several square yards.
"Have we finished our day's journey, then?" asked Lucien.
"Yes," I replied; "don't you feel tired?"
"Not very; I could easily go farther. Have we walked very far?"

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"About four leagues."
"And are we really going to rest after a trifle like that? I always thought
travellers went on walking until night."
"Nonsense!" said I, taking hold of his ear. "What an undaunted young
pedestrian! Four leagues a day are no such trifle when you have to begin
again next morning. 'Slow and steady wins the race,' says an old proverb,
which I intend to carry out to the letter; for forced marches would soon
injure our health, and then good-bye to the success of our expedition. As to
walking until night, it is perfectly impossible, except when one is certain to
meet with an inn. Under these large trees, no one will ever think of getting
ready a meal for us; and, I suppose, you haven't much wish to die of hunger.
We may very likely have to tramp one or two leagues more before we are
able to kill the game which will form the mainstay of our dinner."
"I never thought of all that," said Lucien, shaking his head, and looking
convinced; "but what shall we have to eat this evening?"
"At present, I haven't the least idea; perhaps a hare or a bird, or even a
rat."
"A rat! I certainly will never touch one."
"Ah! my boy, wait till you are really hungry—you don't know as yet
what it is to be so—and then you'll see how greedily you will make a dinner
off whatever Providence provides."
"Do you think we shall often have to go a whole day without eating?"
"I hope not," I answered, smiling at Lucien's anxious and somewhat
pensive tone.
During this conversation, l'Encuerado, as active as a monkey, had
clambered up a pine, and his machete was strewing the ground with slender
boughs. We also set to work at shaping the stakes, which I drove into the
ground by means of a stone, which served as a hammer. Some branches,
interwoven and tied together by creepers, formed a kind of hurdle, which,
fixed on the top of the posts, did for a roof. The Indian, assisted by his little
companion, who was much interested in all the preparations, filled the hut

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with leaves, and covered the branches with a layer of dry grass. Under this
shelter, we could set the rain at defiance, if not the cold.
It is impossible to describe Lucien's enchantment. This house (for this
was the name he chose to give to the shapeless hut, in which our party
could scarcely stand upright) appeared to him a perfect masterpiece of
architecture, and he was astonished at the rapidity with which it had been
built. He helped l'Encuerado to make up the fire, so that all that was
requisite on our return was to set a light to it. Then, armed with our guns,
we set off to seek for our dinners.
Seeing that we left behind us all our baggage, Lucien exclaimed,
"Suppose any one came and stole our provisions?"
"Upon my word," cried Sumichrast, "you're the boy to think of every
thing. But there's no need to fear this misfortune; most likely, we are the
only persons in the forest; or if any one else should be here, it would be an
almost miraculous chance if they discovered our bivouac."
"Then we are not on any road?"
"You may call it a road if you like, but we are the only people who have
trod it; no one could discover our encampment unless they had followed us
step by step."
The child shook his head with a rather doubtful air; the idea of the desert
is not readily nor suddenly comprehended. I well recollect that, during my
first excursions in the wilderness, I was constantly expecting to catch sight
of some human face, either just when I was emerging from a wood or in
following the paths made in the savannah by wild cattle. At night,
especially when I was troubled by sleeplessness, I was always fancying that
I recognized, in the distant sounds, either the crow of a cock, the barking of
a dog, or the burden of some familiar song.

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"But if no one can discover our
bivouac," remarked Lucien, casting a
glance behind him, "how shall we
manage to find it again?"
"In a way that is simple, but rather
laborious; we shall walk one after the
other, and the last man's duty will be
to notch the trees and shrubs."
"Shall I walk first?" asked Lucien.
"No; that place belongs by right to
the best shot; for if we put up any
game, we mustn't let it escape. In the
mean time, until you know how to
use your gun, you shall form the
rear-guard."
This duty did not seem to
displease Lucien, who immediately
seized his sword and followed us, at
a little distance, inflicting on the
trunks of the trees the gashes which
were to guide us on our return. He
performed his work with so much "We now entered one of those
ardor that his strength was soon glades."
exhausted. L'Encuerado afterwards
taught him how to handle his weapon in a more skillful manner, and to
notch the trees without stopping in his walk. A path marked in this manner
is called, in Canada and the United States, a blaze road.
We now entered one of those glades which are so often met with in the
midst of a virgin forest, although it is impossible to explain the cause why
the trees do not grow just in these spots. As there was no living creature to
be seen, I agreed with Sumichrast to leave Lucien and l'Encuerado on the
watch, and that we should walk round, each on our own side, so as to meet
again at the other extremity of the open space. Gringalet, seeing us separate,

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could not at first make up his mind which party he should go with; but
bounded from one to the other, and caressed each of us, raising plaintive
whines. At last he seemed determined to follow me, but scarcely had I
progressed a hundred yards before he stopped, as if to reflect. He probably
thought he had left something behind, for he quickly disappeared.
I walked for half an hour through the brake, with eye and ear both on the
watch, and my finger on the trigger, without discovering the least evidence
of game. My companion did not appear more fortunate than I was, when
suddenly a gun went off. At the same time, I saw Sumichrast pointing to a
number of squirrels crossing the glade.
"Have you killed one?" I asked.
"Yes; but it is sticking fast between two branches, sixty feet above the
ground; it is a shot thrown away."
We watched anxiously the rapid bounds of the graceful little animals
which we had just disturbed, as they were fast making their way into the
wood.
"Is l'Encuerado asleep?" I cried, with vexation.
My question was answered by two shot-reports in succession, and
almost immediately Gringalet, l'Encuerado, and Lucien emerged from the
forest. After searching about for a few minutes, the boy raised up his arm
and showed us two squirrels he was holding. We now hastened our steps;
the Indian had taken possession of the game, and was moving on towards
our bivouac, while Lucien ran to meet us.
"Papa, papa!" he cried, all out of breath, "my gun killed one of the
squirrels. Oh! M. Sumichrast, you shall see it; it is gray, with a tail like a
plume."
"But was it really you that shot?" I asked.
"Oh yes! I shot, but l'Encuerado held my gun; we aimed into the middle
of them, for there were a great many. If you could only have seen how they
jumped! The one I hit climbed up on the tree close by; but it soon fell as
dead as a stone. L'Encuerado says that it hadn't time to suffer much pain."

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The poor child was making his début as a sportsman, and his heart
seemed rather full, although he was very proud of this first proof of his
skill. Sumichrast was the first to congratulate him. As for me, although I
was well aware of the Indian's prudence, I made up my mind, if only for the
sake of economizing our powder, both to blame him and also to caution him
against his desire of letting the boy shoot.
"Come," said I to Lucien, who was hugging his gun against his chest,
"you must be our leader in finding our way back to our encampment. You
marked out the road, so mind you don't mislead us."
Our young guide led us back to our starting-point with far more self-
possession than I expected.
"A child's attention is always being drawn away," observed Sumichrast
to me. "How do you explain Lucien's having followed the trail so readily?"
"Perhaps because it was partly his own work," I replied.
"It is, too, because I am so short," replied the child, with an arch smile;
"I am much closer to the ground than you are, almost as close as Gringalet,
who is so very clever in finding a trail. You see, papa, that it's some benefit
in being little, and that I have some chance of being useful."
I need hardly say how much we were diverted at this novel argument
against a lofty stature.
"At this rate," I replied, "I ought to have brought your brother Emile; for
he is so short that he would have followed a trail even better than you."
"Of course you ought. Don't you recollect that when we were walking
over the mountain of Borrego, he often spied out insects that you had
missed seeing?"
I was evidently regularly beaten.
We sat down in front of the fire, before which the two squirrels were
roasting. L'Encuerado caught in a dish the fat which trickled down from the
animals, and every now and then basted the meat with it.

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The flesh of the squirrel, both in flavor and color, much resembles that
of the hare; so our little mess-mate ate it with evident enjoyment. Dried
maize-cakes, called totopo, took the place of bread, and each one had his
allowance of it.
We couldn't help feeling uneasy about Gringalet: we had given him
about half a squirrel, but instead of eating it, he thought fit to roll himself
upon it frantically. The poor beast had consequently only some scraps of
totopo. It was, however, highly necessary to accustom him to feed on game,
as our maize-cakes were far too valuable to be doled out thus. Each of us
poured a little water from his gourd into a calabash, which served for a
drinking-vessel. The poor dog, thus allowanced, must have been sorry that
he ever joined us.
The sun was perceptibly sinking.
"Well, Lucien," asked Sumichrast, "what do you think now of rat's
flesh?"
"I'll tell you when I have eaten some of it."
"What! don't you know that the squirrel and the rat are very near
relations, and that they both belong to the Rodent family?"
"They certainly are a little alike," said the child, making a comical face.
"Especially the species which we had for our dinner; which, by-the-by, is
not yet classed by naturalists. Look! its coat is black on the back, gray on
the flanks, and white under the belly. The ears, too, are bare, instead of
having those long points of hair which give such a knowing look to the
European squirrels."
"Do squirrels feed on flesh?"
"No; acorns, buds, nuts, grain, and sometimes grasses, constitute their
principal food."
"Then," replied Lucien, triumphantly, "the flesh of the squirrel can not
resemble that of the rat, for I know that the rat will eat flesh."

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The assured and self-satisfied tone of the little savant made us smile; but
I almost immediately desired him to be silent, for a noise of branches
rustling, which had excited our attention, became every moment more
distinct. Gringalet was about to bark, but l'Encuerado caught him by the
muzzle, and covered him with his sarapé. A whole troop of squirrels, no
doubt those we had hunted two hours before, made their appearance,
uttering sharp cries. They sprang from branch to branch with the most
extraordinary disregard to distance. We noticed them running after one
another, sometimes along the top, and sometimes along the bottom of the
most flexible boughs. They moved forward as if in jerks, sometimes
stopping suddenly and climbing a tree, only to descend it again. When on
the ground, they sat up on their hind legs, using their front paws like hands,
and rubbed their noses with such a comical air that Lucien could not help
speaking loud to express his admiration of them.
Hearing so strange a sound as the human voice, the graceful animals
took flight, but not quick enough to prevent Sumichrast's gun from
wounding one of them. The squirrel remained at first clinging to the tree on
which it was when the shot struck it; but, after a pause, it relaxed its hold
and rolled over and fell to the ground. Nevertheless, it had strength enough
left to turn round and bite the sportsman, who carelessly laid hold of him.
L'Encuerado skinned it immediately, keeping the meat for our breakfast
next morning.
The sun went down; the cries of the birds
resounded, and night at last shut us in,
bringing with it the solemn silence of the
wilderness. L'Encuerado struck up a
prolonged chant, and Lucien's fresh young
voice blended with that of the hunter. The
tune was simple and monotonous in its
character; but there was something touching
in hearing the Indian and the child, both
equally artless in mind, uniting together to
sing the praises of God. The chant was
ended by a prayer, which Sumichrast and I
listened to, standing up, with our heads
bared; and it was with earnestness that my

Page 72

friend repeated l'Encuerado's solemn "Amen," expressed in the words, "God
is great."
Having fed the fire with sufficient wood to keep it up all night, we lay
down, side by side, under the hut. The wind moaned softly through the
foliage, and, under the influence of the gentle breeze, the pine-trees
produced that melancholy sound which so exactly calls to mind the noise of
the surf breaking on the shore. By means of thinking of it, I felt it even in
my sleep, for I dreamt that I was at sea, and that the vessel that bore me was
sailing over silvery waters.

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CHAPTER VI.
COFFEE.—TURPENTINE.—COUROUCOUS.—PINE-NEEDLES.—THREE
VOLCANOES IN SIGHT AT ONCE.—THE CARABUS FAMILY.—
SCORPIONS.—SALAMANDERS.—A MIDNIGHT DISTURBANCE.

The first thing I saw on opening my eyes was l'Encuerado, who was
getting ready our coffee, and Lucien crouching close to the fire, piling up a
quantity of dry branches round the kettle, at some risk, however, of
upsetting it.
"Why, Lucien," I cried, "it is not light yet, and you are up already! Didn't
you sleep well?"
"Oh yes, papa," he answered, kissing me; "but l'Encuerado disturbed
Gringalet, so he thought proper to come and lie down on me, and that woke
me, for Gringalet is very heavy. So, as I couldn't go to sleep again, I got up
to look after the fire."
"And you are doing your work capitally. The kettle is singing loudly, and
l'Encuerado will find it difficult to take it off without burning his fingers."
But the Indian had provided himself with two green branches, which he
used to lift off the make-shift coffee-pot, into which he emptied both the
sugar and the coffee.
"Where is the filter?" asked Lucien.
"Do you think you are still in the town?" I replied. "Why don't you ask
for a cup and saucer as well?"
"But we can never drink this black muddy stuff!" cried Lucien.
"Never mind, Chanito," said the Indian; "I'll soon make it all right."
Then, taking his gourd, he poured from it some cold water into the
mixture, and it immediately became cleared.
I told Lucien to go and wake up Sumichrast.

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The child approached our companion, who was scarcely visible under
the leaves, which served him both for coverlet and pillow.
"Hallo! hallo! M. Sumichrast; the soup is on the table."
"Soup!" repeated Sumichrast, rubbing his eyes. "Ah! you little monkey,
you have disturbed me in such a pleasant dream. I fancied that I was no
older than you, and that I was once more wandering over the mountains of
my native land."
It is considered wholesome to take a cup of Mocha after a hearty meal;
but, with all due deference to Grimod de la Reynière and Brillat Savarin,
coffee seems still sweeter to the taste when taken at five o'clock in the
morning, after passing the night in the open air.
The day broke; it was a magnificent sight to see the forest gradually
lighted up, and the trunks of the trees gilded by slanting sunbeams. Before
starting again, one of our party carefully examined the ground on which we
had camped, so as not to forget any of our effects, which, if lost, would
have been irreparable. I also noticed that l'Encuerado's basket was decked
with the three squirrels' skins, which would thus gradually dry.
We had walked on for nearly an hour, the only incident being our
meeting with various kinds of birds, when the melancholy cry of the
couroucou struck on our ears. The call of this bird is very much like that
uttered by the Mexican ox-drivers when they herd together the animals
under their care; hence its Spanish name of vaquero. We gave chase to
them, and in less than half an hour we had obtained a male and female.
Lucien was never tired of admiring these beautiful creatures, with their
yellow beaks, hooked like those of birds of prey. The male bird, in
particular, was magnificent; the feathers on the head and back seemed to be
"shot" with a golden green, while the edges of the wings and the belly were
tinted with the purest crimson, shaded off into two black lines, which
extended as far as the tail.
"Shall we find many of these birds in the forest, M. Sumichrast?" asked
Lucien.
"No, Master 'Sunbeam;' they are rather rare; so we must take great care
of the skins of these we have shot."

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"Is their flesh good to eat?" he asked.
"Excellent; and many a gourmand would be glad to make a meal of it.
However, at dinner-time, you shall try for yourself; and you will meet with
very few people who, like you, have partaken of the trogon massena."
"At all events, it isn't another relation of the rat—is it?" asked the boy,
archly.
"No; it belongs to the family of climbers—that is to say, to that order of
birds which have two toes in front of their claws and two behind, like your
great friends the parrots."
After we had dressed the skins of the couroucous, and carefully wrapped
up the game, we again moved on. The ground became stony, and the
descent steeper. At one time I had hoped to find a spring at the bottom of
the ravine; but we very soon discovered, to our great disappointment, that
we should have to begin climbing again, leaving behind us the oaks and the
ceibas, and meeting with nothing but gigantic pine-trees. The pine-needles,
[H] which literally carpeted the ground, made it so slippery, that for every
step forward we frequently took two backward. We fell time after time, but
our falls were not in the least degree dangerous. Sometimes, as if at a
signal, we all four rolled down together, and each laughed at his neighbor's
misfortune, thus cheering one another. Lucien had an idea of hanging on to
Gringalet's tail, who was the only one that could avoid these mishaps. This
plan answered very well at first; but the dog soon after broke away by a
sudden jerk, and the boy rolled backward like a ball, losing all the ground
he had gained, but he at once got up again, quite in a pet with the dog, for
whom he predicted a fall as a punishment for his treacherous behavior.
The troublesome pine-needles obliged us again to resort to the stake and
lasso plan; l'Encuerado, with his load, strove in vain to keep up with us.
"Can any one understand the use of these horrible trees?" grumbled the
Indian. "Why can't they keep their leaves to themselves? Why don't they
grow in the plains, instead of making honest folks wear the flesh off their
bones in a place which is quite difficult enough to traverse as it is?"
"God makes them grow here," said the child.

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"Not at all, Chanito; God created them, but the devil has sown them on
these mountains. I have travelled on the large plateau, where there are
whole forests of pines, which proves that it was only for spite that they
grow on this ascent."
Fortunately Lucien only half believed what the Indian said, and very
soon asked me all about it.
"The pines," I replied, "are trees of the North, which never grow well
except in cold climates and dry soils. If l'Encuerado had been acquainted
with the history of his ancestors, he would have been able to give you some
better information about them; he would have known that, in the Aztec
mythology, they were sacred to the mother of the gods, the goddess
Matlacueye, who, curiously enough, fills the part of Cybele among the
Greek goddesses, whose favorite tree was also the pine."
Just at this moment we were passing close to a giant of the forest, which
had been broken by a squall of wind; from three or four cracks in its trunk a
transparent resin ran trickling out. Lucien, thinking these globules were
solid, wished to take hold of one of them; but his fingers stuck to it.
"I fancied," said he, "that turpentine was obtained by crushing the
branches of the pine-tree, just as they crush the stems of the sugar-cane."
"You were wrong, then," I answered. "The Indians, in the forests where
they manufacture it, content themselves with cutting down the tree within a
foot of the ground; the resin at once begins to ooze out, and gradually fills
the leathern bottles placed to receive it. As soon as the resin ceases to flow,
they cut the tree up into fagots for the use of the inhabitants of the towns, or
the Indians living on plains, whose poor dwellings often possess no other
light than the smoky glimmer from a branch of fir."
I was obliged to cut short my explanations, in order to help Sumichrast
and l'Encuerado, who, in spite of the lasso, seemed as if they were trying
who could slip fastest. The only way we could get on at all was by
describing zigzags, and thus we were two hours in climbing a quarter of a
league. At last we arrived on the verge of the forest. The rocky ground
seemed quite pleasant to walk upon: we could now advance in a straight
line, and were able, with very little trouble, to reach another summit.

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From the crest a marvellous panoramic view was in sight, for we
overlooked all the surrounding country. On our left rose the gigantic and
majestic peak of Orizava or Citlatepetl—that is, the "mountain of the
star"—which rises to 17,372 feet above the sea-level. Lucien thought that
this could not really be the same mountain the summit of which he was in
the habit of seeing every morning.
"It is quite a different shape," he said.
"It is not the mountain, but the point from which you look at it, that has
changed its appearance," replied Sumichrast.
"But it looks much higher," said Lucien.
"That is because we are nearer to it. From here we can discern the
beautiful forest which surrounds its base as you ascend, the pines growing
farther and farther apart, and gradually disappearing altogether. Higher still
may be seen the glaciers glittering in the sun; and, last of all, the perpetual
snow surrounding the crater, which was visited for the first time in 1847, by
M. Doignon, a Frenchman."
"Popocatepetl, Istaccihuatl," said l'Encuerado gravely, pointing out the
mountains.
The two mountains mentioned by the Indian were towering up behind us
—a sight that alone repaid for our difficult ascent; we could admire in turn
the three loftiest volcanoes in Mexico.
"Where is Popocatepetl?" asked Lucien.
"There; that enormous cone which rises to our right," I answered,
pointing in that direction.
"Is it the smallest of the three?"
"No; on the contrary, it does not measure less than 18,000 feet in height.
Dias Ordas, one of the captains of Fernando Cortez, made its first ascent. Its
name signifies 'smoking mountain.'"
"Yes; and I know that Istaccihuatl means 'white woman;' but I do not
know the height of it."

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"It is 15,700 feet above the level of the sea."
"How can mountains like these be measured?" asked Lucien.
"In the first place, by geometrical calculations, and then, by the aid of a
barometer, when an ascent has been made. The column of mercury in the
instrument falls in proportion as the barometer is carried up the mountain,
because the air which presses upon the mercury reservoir becomes less and
less dense."
I quite forgot the lapse of time while contemplating the glorious
panorama spread beneath. Just around us the ground was rocky and
volcanic, and covered with mosses of various colors; rather lower down the
ground was hidden by the fallen leaves of giant trees; beyond was a
succession of smaller crests, frequently quite barren, sometimes covered
with sun-scorched verdure. On the horizon, which was hidden by a
transparent mist, the two volcanoes of the plateau stood out in bold relief
against the blue sky, facing the other colossus, which seemed to protect us
with its shadow. The peaks of these mountains, clad with their perpetual
snow, can be seen by sailors forty leagues at sea.
I was really sorry to give the signal for departure. We again met with the
pine-needles, and though our ascent was difficult and slow, our descent was
proportionably rapid. Thus we fell forward instead of falling backward.
Gringalet, who seemed amused at our ridiculous postures, and was too
confident in his own powers, shared our mishaps, much to the amusement
of his young master, who had predicted that such would happen.
L'Encuerado, utterly tired out, bethought himself of dragging his basket
along the ground, which was so thickly covered with leaves that he
managed it without damaging his load or breaking the bottles.
At last we came upon oak vegetation; and, still farther down, tropical
plants. Various birds enlivened our journey by their song, while numbers of
brilliant-colored insects hummed cheerfully round us. In less than an hour
we had passed from autumn to spring, after having had a glimpse of winter.
The creepers very soon obliged us to cut a passage with our machetes; but
what was our joy upon perceiving, at the bottom of the ravine, a stream
bordered with angelica and water-cress!

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Thanks to the abundance of materials, our hut was quickly constructed.
While l'Encuerado was getting dinner ready, I went to examine the half-
rotten trunk of a tree which was lying on the ground. A multitude of insects,
of an elegant shape and of a metallic-blue color, fled at my approach; they
belonged to the numerous Carabus family, the flesh-eating Coleopteræ,
which are found both in Europe and in America.
"Why don't they fly away, instead of running or tumbling over on the
ground?" asked Lucien.
"Because they are but little used to flying, and are very quick at
walking," I answered.
"Oh papa! the one I have caught has wetted my fingers, and it feels as if
it had burned me."
"You are right; but you needn't be afraid; it will not hurt you. Many of
the Carabus family, when they are caught, try to defend themselves by
throwing out a corrosive liquid; others make a report, accompanied by
smoke, which has given them their name of bombardier."
"What do they find to eat under the bark, in which they must lead a very
gloomy life?"
"Larvæ and caterpillars; they are, therefore, more useful than injurious."
"To what order of insects do they belong?"
"To the Coleoptera order, because they have four wings, the largest of
which, called elytra, are more or less hard, and justify their name[I] by
encasing the two other wings, which are membranous and folded crosswise.
The cock-chafer, you know, is one of this order."
A fresh piece of bark revealed to us two scorpions with enormous
bellies, and heads so small as to be almost imperceptible; all they did was to
stiffen out their tails, which are composed of six divisions, the last
terminating in an extremely slender barb.
"Oh, what horrid creatures!" cried Lucien, starting back; "if it wasn't for
their light color, you might take them for prawns with their heads cut off."

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"Yes, if you didn't examine them too closely. I suppose you will be very
surprised when I tell you that they are allied to the spider tribe."
"I should never have suspected it. Are they dead, then, for they do not
move?"
"Insects belonging to this order are very slow and lazy in their
movements. They are found under most kinds of bark; therefore I advise
you to take care when searching through it."
"Should I die if I were stung?"
"No; but it would cause a very painful swelling, which it would be best
to avoid."
"I shall be afraid to meddle with the bark of trees, now."
"Then good-bye to your making a collection of insects. Prudence is a
very good quality, but you must not make it an excuse for cowardice."
Upon examining the insects more closely, I saw that one of the
scorpions, a female, was carrying three or four young ones on her back.
This sight much amused Lucien, especially when he saw the animal begin
to move slowly off with them.
"Do you know, Chanito," said l'Encuerado, who had now joined us,
which showed that the cooking did not require his undivided attention, "that
when the mother of the young scorpions does not supply them with food,
they set to and devour her."
"Is that true?" asked Lucien, with surprise.
"If the little ones do not actually kill their mother, at all events they feed
on her dead body," I answered. "You will have plenty of opportunities to
verify this fact, for these insects are very plentiful in the Terre-Tempérée."
"Ah!" cried Lucien, "I was quite right, then, when I called them horrid
creatures."
L'Encuerado, stripping off another piece of bark, exposed to view a
salamander, which awkwardly tried to hide itself.

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"You may catch it if you like; there is nothing to be afraid of," said I to
Lucien, who had drawn back in fright.
"But it is a scorpion!" he exclaimed.
"You are too frightened to see clearly; it is a salamander, an amphibious
reptile of the frog family. The scorpion has eight feet, while the salamander,
which is much more like a lizard, has only four."
"Are they venomous?" asked Lucien of the Indian.
"No, Chanito; Indians" (it was well worth while hearing the contempt
with which l'Encuerado pronounced this name) "are afraid of it; once I was
afraid of it myself, but your papa has taught me to handle it without the
least fear."
And the hunter placed the salamander in the boy's hand, who cried out—
"It is as cold as ice, and all sticky."
"It must be so, as a matter of course; the salamander, like a fish, is a
cold-blooded animal. The viscous humor which is secreted by the skin of
the salamander is able to protect them for a short time from injury by fire,
by means of the same phenomenon by which a hand, previously wetted, can
be plunged into melting iron without burning it.[J] Thus an idea has arisen
that these batrachians can exist in the midst of flames. Although these poor
animals are deaf, nearly blind, and remarkable for their timidity, poets,
much to the amusement of naturalists, have chosen the salamander as an
emblem of valor."
Assisted by Sumichrast, I continued the examination of the immense
tree, which, being half rotted by the dampness of the soil, supplied us with
some very beautiful specimens of various insects.
Suddenly we heard Lucien speaking in supplicating tones; I ran towards
him, and found him trying to prevent l'Encuerado, who had got possession
of the salamander, from making a trial of its powers of resisting fire.
"All right, Chanito; I will not leave it long on the coals; your papa said
that these animals do not mind it a bit."

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Lucien would not consent to this cruel experiment, but carried the
animal back to the tree on which we had found it.

The day was drawing to a close when we returned to the fire; from the
stew-pan an appetizing odor was escaping, in which one of the couroucous,
with a handful of rice, was boiling, while the other bird was roasting in
front. It was really a capital dinner; first we had some excellent soup, of
which Lucien had two platefuls; then came what was left of our squirrel,
and last of all the roasted couroucou, which l'Encuerado served up on a bed
of water-cresses. We had an unlimited supply of water; and, although my
readers may smile at what I say, I really believe we drank too much. A cup
of coffee crowned our feast, and then the remains were left to Gringalet,
who licked every thing clean, even to the very saucepan. Lucien, having
finished his meal, lay down by my side, and was not long before he was fast
asleep.
A dismal howling from our four-footed companion woke us up with a
start. We seized our arms. The dog, with his ears laid back, his tail between
his legs, turned his nose to the wind with an anxious glance, and set up a
fresh howl, which was answered by the shrill prolonged cries of the
coyotas, or jackal of Mexico.
"So these miserable brutes think they are going to frighten us?" cried
l'Encuerado.

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And while we were making
up the fire, the Indian rushed
off into the darkness.
"Are they wolves, M.
Sumichrast?" asked Lucien,
anxiously.
"Yes, my boy, but only
prairie wolves," he answered.
"Do you think that they will
first devour l'Encuerado, and
then attack us?"
"You needn't be frightened;
courage is not one of their
virtues. Unless they were
starving, they wouldn't venture
near us."
All at once we heard a shot.
The whole forest seemed in
movement; the cries of the
"It was really a capital dinner." birds resounded through the
trees, and the echoes repeated
the noise of the report. Gringalet barked loudly, and was again answered by
the harsh cry of the coyotas. At length the silence, which for a short time
had been disturbed, was once more restored, and the forest resumed its
solemn stillness.

Page 84

Page 85

CHAPTER VII.
THE CATS'-EYES POMADE.—ARMADILLO.—LUCIEN AND THE
CRUEL FERN.-THE FALLEN MOUNTAIN.—THE WOODPECKER.—THE
BASILISK.—L'ENCUERADO'S FRESH IDEA.

Gringalet, who had been the first to give the alarm, was also the first to
go to sleep again. I could not help waiting with some degree of anxiety for
l'Encuerado's return. In a quarter of an hour, as the Indian did not arrive, I
began to think that, confused by the darkness, he had missed finding our
bivouac. After having called him two or three times, without receiving any
answer, I was just going to fire off my gun, so that the noise of the report
might serve as a guide to him, when I heard the sound of his guttural cry.
"What on earth has possessed you to chase useless game at this hour of
the night?" I cried, as he came into sight.
"I felt bound to give these screeching animals a lesson, señor; if I hadn't
done so, they would have come back to disturb us every night," answered
the Indian, gravely.
"Have you killed any of them?"
"I only managed to wound one. I followed it—"
"At the risk of falling into some pit. You can't see at night—at least, as
far as I know."
"Not very well; but that is all your fault," replied l'Encuerado, in a
reproachful tone.
"What! my fault?"
"The brujos (sorcerers) have many a time offered me an ointment made
of cats' eyes and fat; but they wanted too much for it. You knew much more
about it than the sorcerers; and if you would only have told me the way to
make the ointment, and how to use it, I should have been able to see at
night, long enough ago, which would be quite as useful to you as to me."

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This was an old story, and all that I could have said to the Indian would
not have convinced him that I could not make him see in the dark.
It was broad daylight when Sumichrast awoke us. The brook, which we
could cross at a leap, sometimes rippled over pebbles, and sometimes glided
silently over a sandy bottom. The plants which grew on its two banks
fraternally intertwined their green branches, and their flowers seemed to
exchange their perfumes. From the boughs of the large trees hung gray
mosses, which made them look like gigantic old men; the sun gilded their
black trunks with its rising beams, and from the tops of the trees the sweet
chant of birds rose up towards heaven. Our eyes, which had become
accustomed to the comparatively barren places we had traversed the day
before, dwelt with delight upon this lovely and glorious scene; our hearts
rejoiced in the midst of this calm and luxuriant aspect of nature. It was with
feelings of regret we got ready to move on again.
"Suppose we weren't to go till the afternoon," said Sumichrast.
"Suppose we don't go till to-morrow," I answered.
These ideas seemed so thoroughly to respond to the wish of all, that, in a
moment, our travelling gear was scattered again on the ground. The first
thing we did was to take a bath; then the thought struck us that we had
better wash our clothes. Lucien, helped by l'Encuerado, who had nothing to
wash for himself, as he wore his leather garment next to his skin, laughed
heartily at seeing us turned into washerwomen; still he did not do his part of
the work at all badly. He then undertook to wash Gringalet, whose white
coat, spotted with black, was sadly in want of cleansing. Unfortunately, the
dog was hardly out of the water when he began rolling himself in the dust,
and, as dirty as ever, came frisking around his disappointed little master.
We were roaming about in every direction, in the hope of collecting
some insects, when Gringalet pricked up his ears and showed his teeth. The
rustling of dry leaves attracted our attention to a slope opposite to us, on
which an armadillo was seen.
Generally speaking, these animals only go out for food in the night. This
one, which we saw in broad daylight, was about the size of a large rabbit.
Pricking up its ears, it raised its tapering muzzle so as to snuff closer to the

Page 87

branches. Its head, which was very small, gave it a very grotesque
appearance. Suddenly it began scratching up the earth with its front paws,
furnished with formidable claws, and now and then poked its pointed nose
into the hole it had dug. I had crossed the stream, and was advancing
cautiously towards the animal, when I saw it leave off its work, and,
bending down its head uneasily, as quick as lightning it rolled itself up into
a ball and glided down the slope. Just at my feet it stopped, and I only had
to stoop down in order to pick it up. Gringalet, who then appeared at the top
of the slope, was evidently the cause of its sudden flight.
I rejoined my companions, carrying my prisoner, who tried neither to
defend itself nor to escape. Lucien examined with curiosity the scales which
crossed the back of the armadillo, and its pink transparent skin. I told him
that this inoffensive animal, which feeds on insects and roots, belonged to
the order Edentata—mammals in which the system of teeth is incomplete.
"But," said he, "I have seen pictures in which armadillos are represented
with armor formed of small squares."
"That is another species, which also lives in Mexico," replied
Sumichrast.
When we talked about killing the animal, Lucien opposed the idea with
great vehemence. He wanted either to carry it away alive or to let it go—
both being plans which could not be allowed. Gringalet, however, cut short
the discussion by strangling it, l'Encuerado's carelessness having left it in
his way. The boy, both angry and distressed, was astonished at the cruelty of
his dog, and was going to beat him.
"He has only yielded to instinct," said Sumichrast.
"A fine instinct, truly," replied Lucien, in tears, "to kill a poor beast that
never did him any harm!"
"He has saved us the trouble of killing it. Men, and all carnivorous
animals, can not live except on the condition of sacrificing other creatures.
Didn't you shoot a squirrel yesterday? And you did not refuse your share of
those beautiful birds, the plumage of which so delighted you."

Page 88

"Yes, but I did not strangle the squirrel with my teeth. It's a very
different thing."
"For you, very probably; but it was much the same to the squirrel.
However, if there's another chance, you shall lend your gun to Gringalet."
Lucien smiled through his tears, and his indignation gradually calmed
down. Certainly the result is the same, whether you wring a fowl's neck or
shoot it; yet I could never make up my mind to the former operation.
Lucien, who was endowed with almost feminine sensibility, was often
angry with l'Encuerado, who could scarcely resist the temptation of firing at
any thing alive, useful or not, which came within reach of his gun. We had
spoken often enough to the Indian on the subject, but he always asserted
that if God had allowed man to kill for the purpose of food, He had also
ordered him to destroy hurtful animals, as they were the allies of the demon.
Unfortunately, horses and dogs excepted, all animals were hurtful in
l'Encuerado's eyes.
Gun on shoulder, we made our way up the bed of the stream, often being
obliged to cut our path through a thicket of plants. I noticed a fine tree-fern,
the leaves of which, not yet developed, assumed the shape of a bishop's
crosier. Lucien remarked this.
"You are right," said I, "it is very curious. Do you know Jussieu divided
all vegetables into three great orders—Acotyledons, Monocotyledons, and
Dicotyledons. Ferns belong to the first;[K] they have no visible flowers, and
are allied to the sea-weed and mushroom tribe. It is only under the tropics
that ferns attain the dimensions of the one you are looking at; in colder
regions their height seldom exceeds a few feet. Ferns formed almost the
sole vegetation of the primitive world, and we frequently find evidence of
some gigantic species which are now extinct."
Lucien, being desirous to examine the crosier-shaped stalks, allowed us
to get in front of him, then crept under the fern.
As the leaves of this shrub are furnished underneath with long prickles,
when he wanted to rejoin us he found himself caught. The more he
struggled the worse he became entangled. He cried out to me in a most
distressed voice, and not knowing what had happened, I lost no time in

Page 89

going back to him. I found him fighting hard against the thorns which were
scratching his face and hands. L'Encuerado and Sumichrast also came to his
assistance.
I disentangled the boy as quickly as I could; but already he had several
scratches over his face and hands.
"How came you not to think," I said, "that by struggling in this way you
would only the more entangle yourself?"
"I saw you all leaving me; I scarcely knew what held me back, and I got
quite frightened; but I'm not crying, papa, and yet the fern-prickles scratch
terribly."
L'Encuerado turned up his sleeves, and, seizing his machete, rushed at
the fern.
"Are not you ashamed to attack a child?" he cried. "It's all very fine to
display your bishop's crosier and then behave in this way! Try and tear my
coat! I know you wouldn't dare to do it! Never mind, though! I'll punish you
for your malice."
The poor plant, alas! was soon cut down; thus the growth of years was
destroyed in a few minutes.
After an hour's walking, the head of our little column suddenly came in
front of a whole mountain-side which had slid from its original position.
The sight was a magnificent one; the accumulation of rocks, piled one on
the other, had crushed down in their fall the trees that impeded their course.
We saw before us an inextricable pile of trunks, monstrous roots, and
masses of rock, suspended and apparently ready to fall. The catastrophe
must have recently occurred; for here and there a branch was still covered
with foliage, and the grass had not as yet carpeted the immense gap. Lucien
was so astonished at the wild grandeur of the scene that it actually put an
end to his chatter. Without speaking, we joined Sumichrast, who was in
advance. That a lagoon must have been filled up by the avalanche of rocks,
we saw certain indications. We could hear the rumbling noise of water
flowing beneath us. On our left, at the foot of the mountain, extended a
wide basin, which, from its regular outline, might well have been made by
the hand of man.

Page 90

Every thing seemed silent and deserted around us, although the bushes
that margined the edge of the lagoon must once have sheltered many a
guest; now the imposing grandeur of the scene had awed them, or driven
them off.
"How could such a great mass as this fall down?" asked Lucien.
"We can only conjecture," replied Sumichrast; "perhaps the stream
flowing beneath the base of the rocks had excavated fissures, and thus
undermined it."
"The noise must have been terrific," said Lucien.
"Doubtless it was," replied Sumichrast; "and the shock possibly felt for
many leagues round."
"Have you ever seen a mountain fall in two like that, M. Sumichrast?"
"Yes; I did five years ago, when I was in company with your father. A
whole forest disappeared before our eyes in a land-slip, which also
overwhelmed four or five Indian huts. In a year from the present time, the
wilderness of bare rocks that we see before us will be again covered with
thick vegetation; mosses will grow over these gray-colored rocks, and the
stream will have renewed its course. If chance should ever lead us again to
this spot, the rich foliage and flowers would almost prevent our recognizing
the desolation which now impresses us so much."
I crossed the stream, in order to reach our bivouac by the opposite bank
to that which we had hitherto followed. Suddenly a noise, like a mallet
striking the trunk of a tree, attracted our attention.
"You told me just now there was no one but ourselves in the forest,"
cried Lucien.
"Chut!" replied l'Encuerado; "it is nothing but a large woodpecker."
And each of us glided under the bushes and tried to get near the winged
workman, who so loudly betrayed his presence. Ten minutes elapsed, but all
was silent, and the object of our search appeared to have moved off. In fact,
we were about to give up the pursuit, when three blows, struck at regular
intervals, resounded near us.

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The Carpintero (carpenter), for such it is called in Mexico, has very
brilliant yellow eyes, red feathers upon the head, while the body is dark-
colored streaked with white. It climbs easily up the trunks of trees, resting
upon its tail-feathers. At length we observed it, and as we looked, admiring
its plumage, it again struck three resounding blows, and ran round the tree
as if to inspect the other side.
"The fool!" muttered l'Encuerado; "he thinks he can pierce a tree as thick
as my body with three pecks of his beak! He'll soon be eaten."
And he fired at the bird and hit it.
"I say, papa, did the woodpecker really want to pierce this big tree?"
"No, my boy; that is a popular but unfounded idea. The woodpecker
strikes the trees in order to frighten the insects that are concealed under the
bark; and the action which l'Encuerado has interpreted in his own way is
performed with a view of getting hold of the fugitives."
Sumichrast showed Lucien that the woodpecker, aided by its wedge-
shaped beak, could, in case of need, rip up the bark under which its prey
was to be found; that his tongue, covered with spines bending backward, is
well adapted to seize the larvæ; and, lastly, that the stiff and elastic feathers
of its tail afford it a very useful support in the exercise of its laborious
vocation.
"You often get the better of me in argument," said l'Encuerado; "but it's
no use your saying that woodpeckers do not bore into trees, for I have seen
them doing it."
"You are right, up to a certain point," replied Sumichrast; "some species
make their nests in dead trees, which their beaks can with ease penetrate. As
for piercing sound trees, that's quite another question."
While l'Encuerado was preparing the armadillo and the woodpecker,
which we were to have for dinner, we walked down the course of the
stream, the agreeable freshness of which was very pleasant to us. All at
once Lucien pointed out to me a basilisk sitting on a stone, the rays of the
sun setting off its bright shades—yellow, green, and red. This member of
the Iguana family, which bears no resemblance to the fabulous basilisk of

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the Greeks, got up at our approach, puffed out its throat, and shook the
membranous crest on the top of its head. Its bright eye seemed to scan the
horizon; no doubt it caught sight of us, for its flaccid body stiffened out, and
with a rapid bound it sprang into the stream. The reptile raised its chest in
swimming, beating the water with its fore paws as if with oars. We soon lost
sight of it, to Lucien's great sorrow, for he wanted to obtain a further
inspection of it.
Gathering round the fire,
we arranged our baggage,
ready to start the next
morning. As there was still
another hour's daylight,
Lucien remained with
l'Encuerado, and I went with
Sumichrast to reconnoitre the
route we intended to take.
The sun was setting, and
we were slowly approaching
our bivouac, when Gringalet's
whine met our ears. I hastened
forward, for the dog began to
howl desperately. I reached
the hut quite out of breath.
Every thing seemed right, but
Lucien and l'Encuerado had
disappeared. I looked
anxiously into my
companion's face.
"No doubt," said "The dog began to howl desperately."
Sumichrast, "l'Encuerado has
gone to take a stroll, and left the dog asleep."
I raised a call-cry. What was my surprise at hearing it answered from up
above us. My son and the Indian were sitting thirty feet from the ground,

Page 93

hidden in the foliage of a gigantic tree. My first impulse was to address
l'Encuerado rather angrily.
"Don't flurry him," said Sumichrast; "he'll need all his presence of mind
to get the boy down safely."
With an anxiety which may be easily understood, I watched all the
movements of the lad, who was every now and then concealed by the
leaves.
"Gently," cried l'Encuerado; "put your foot there. Well done! Now lay
hold of this branch and slide down. Don't be afraid; I'll not let you go. How
pleased and proud your papa will be when he knows how high you have
climbed!"
The Indian was wrong; I was neither pleased nor proud. The trunk of the
tree was five or six feet in circumference; the first branches sprang at a
point no less than seven to ten feet from the ground, and I could not make
out how the boy managed to reach them. As for l'Encuerado, or rather the
ape that went by that name, I knew that no obstacle could stop him.
I must, however, confess that I felt all my anger melting away when I
saw the skill and coolness of the young acrobat. Certainly, Sumichrast
appealed to my own reminiscences, and offered to lay me a wager that I had
climbed many a poplar without the advantage of such superintendence as
l'Encuerado's. At last the two gymnasts reached the lowest branches, and I
breathed more freely.
"Papa," cried the child, "we climbed right to the top, and there found a
nest and a squirrel's hiding-place."
"Have you suddenly gone mad?" said I, interrupting him and addressing
the Indian.
"Mad!" repeated he, with the most sublime simplicity. "Why?"
"Couldn't you have chosen a tree that was not so tall?"
"Don't you wish Chanito to learn to climb? At all events, the señora
intrusted him to me."

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"And so you risk his breaking his bones?"
"I'm not a child," replied the Indian, proudly, standing upright on a
branch.
"Enough of these gymnastics! Come down at once; although God knows
how you are going to manage it."
The words were hardly out of my mouth when Lucien reached the
ground, suspended by a lasso which l'Encuerado had tied under his arms.
The Indian had pulled him up to the lowest branches in the same way.
"You have not acted sensibly," said I to the Indian; "we do not begin to
learn to ride by mounting a wild horse. Lucien doesn't know yet how to
climb high trees."
"Lucien can climb as well as I can," retorted the culprit; "he has never
eaten an orange out of your garden without clambering up to gather it
himself."
"That's something new to me," said I, looking hard at my son, who
blushed. "At any rate, orange-trees are very different in size from cotton-
woods, so you risked killing him."
"No; I kept tight hold of him. You very well know that if Chanito were
likely to come to his death by my fault, I should die first."
"That wouldn't bring the boy to life again. There will be plenty of
dangers in our excursion without seeking them out for mere pleasure. I want
to bring you all back safe and sound to Orizava; therefore, don't let us have
any more of these ascents."
Having uttered this remonstrance, I turned on my heel, for it was no use
trying to have the last word with l'Encuerado. I was, however, quite sure
that he would not renew the exploit which had displeased me, and that was
all I wished.
At supper-time, Gringalet did not show any repugnance to the flesh of
the armadillo, the taste of which reminded Lucien of sucking-pig.

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"Are armadillos very scarce?" he asked; "they are never sold in the
market."
"Just the contrary," replied Sumichrast; "they are very common, and the
Indians never fail to feast on them when they can procure them."
"What does the name armadillo mean?"
"It is a Paraguayan word, the meaning of which is, 'encased in armor.'
The Aztecs call the animal ayotochitl, that is, 'gourd-rabbit'—'rabbit' on
account of its ears, and 'gourd' because, when it rolls itself up in a ball, it
reminds one of that vegetable."
L'Encuerado had gone to sleep. Lucien soon went into the hut, and I
noticed that Sumichrast carefully arranged the leaves which were to form
our bed, although he himself lay down anywhere. I was much less inclined
for sleep than my companions, and contemplated them all reposing;
reflecting on the strange chance which united, under the same shelter, in the
midst of the wilderness, persons born of such distinct races and in such
different climates. We could all surely depend on one another, for in
previous expeditions our mutual friendship had been put to the proof.
Seeing how well Lucien bore the fatigue, I rejoiced that I had brought him
under the protection of such good guardians. When I entered the hut to seek
repose, I disturbed Gringalet, who, before lying down again by his young
master, licked his hand: here was another devoted friend—"the dog, which
combines all man's better qualities," as Charlet observes.

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CHAPTER VIII.
A VULTURE'S FEAST.—DRAGON'S BLOOD.—A CORAL SERPENT.—
THE OWL.—MEXICAN MOLES.—TOUCANS.—THE SCOLOPACIDÆ.—
L'ENCUERADO TURNED TAILOR.—SUNSET.

We left our bivouac at daybreak, first ascending and then descending,
sometimes making our way through thickets and other times through
glades; suddenly a flock of vultures attracted our attention. A hideous
spectacle was now presented to our eyes. A coyote—doubtless that which
l'Encuerado had wounded the day before—lay half devoured on the ground,
and more than fifty guests were coming in turn for their share, and to tear,
in turn, a strip of flesh from the carcass.
"What frightful creatures!" cried Lucien. "I can't think why the nasty
smell does not drive them away."
"It is just the reverse; it is the smell which attracts them," I replied.
"Even when they are soaring high up in the sky, and scan the horizon with
their yellow eyes, their subtle sense of smell enables them to catch the
effluvia of the putrefied matter on which they feed."
In some of the towns of Mexico the black vultures are so numerous—
living there, as they do, almost tame in the streets—that our young
companion was well acquainted with these birds; but he had never been
present at one of their joint meals. The sight of one of their bare, black, and
wrinkled necks, plunged into the body of the animal, made him almost ill.
"Poh!—what disgusting birds!" he cried.
"You are wrong," I said; "the birds are only obeying the instinct
implanted in them. Henceforward you will understand better the name of
the 'rapacious order' or 'birds of prey,' which is given by naturalists to
vultures, eagles, falcons, and owls. You are aware that the science which
describes the habits of birds is called ornithology. Cuvier, the great
classifier, divides the feathered tribe into six orders—birds of prey,
passerines, climbers, gallinaceans, wading, and web-footed birds. In order

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to prevent confusion, the orders have been subdivided into families, the
families into groups, the groups into genera, and the genera into species."
"How are they all to be recognized?"
"By the study of certain special characteristics, which serve as
distinguishing marks. Birds of prey, for instance, have curved beaks and
claws, legs feathered either to the knee or down to the foot, three toes in
front, and one behind; also, the back and inside toe are stronger than the
others. The vultures which you are looking at, the only birds of the order
which live in flocks, belong to the Cathartus genus."[L]
"Look! there are some
which keep at a distance. They
look as if they were afraid."
"No; they have gorged
themselves, and are now
digesting their meal; unless
danger compel them to take
flight, they will remain
motionless until sunset."
"Will they attack live
creatures?"
"Very rarely; for they are
dreadful cowards, and,
besides, do not care much for
fresh meat."
We had now left far behind
us the miserable crew of
carrion-eaters, when Lucien
suddenly cried out—

"A flock of vultures attracted our "Oh, papa! look, there's a
attention." bleeding tree!"

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"It is a pterocarpus; that is, a vegetable with membranes resembling the
wing of a bird. The red sap which is trickling down from its bark is called
dragon's blood, thus named by the Greeks, who ascribed to it a fabulous
origin. The blood-tree, for so the Indians designate it, is allied to the
asparagus and lily genera, and the gum which exudes from it is a good
remedy for dysentery."
L'Encuerado picked off a few dry flakes of this invaluable production;
and then, dipping his finger into some of the drops which were still liquid,
he rubbed it all over Gringalet's legs and paws, who was thus provided with
red top-boots. As a matter of fact, this operation must have had a good
effect upon the animal; for this gum, being very rich in tannin, was certain
to brace the tissues and muscles; but the first sensation of it seemed to
distress the poor beast, who ran along lifting up his legs in a very comical
fashion.
"Gringalet walks very much in the same way that l'Encuerado did the
time he put on his beautiful blue slippers," remarked Lucien, in great glee.
"You don't mean to say," said Sumichrast, "that l'Encuerado ever wore
blue slippers?"
"Yes; the other day there was a dinner-party, and mamma told him to
dress himself as well as he could. He at once ran off to buy a pair of pumps
he had seen in a shop, and, just at the moment they were all sitting down to
dinner, he made his appearance in his new foot-coverings, and—a cravat!"
"A cravat!" repeated Sumichrast, more surprised than ever.
"Yes, a real cravat; but as he had never before worn any thing on his feet
but sandals, he lifted them up when he walked just as Gringalet does now.
Mamma advised him to put on his sandals again; but he would not obey her,
so he was well punished, for he tripped up and broke a whole pile of plates.
It was not until after this misfortune that he could be persuaded to take off
his blue pumps; and even then he could not bear to part with them
altogether, so he hung them round his neck, and kept on waiting at table, as
proud as possible with his grand decoration."
This adventure was only too true, and Sumichrast listened to it with
shouts of laughter.

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"Why did you hang the shoes round your neck instead of putting them
away in a corner?" asked Sumichrast of the Indian.
"I did it to let all the world know that I had bought them, and that they
belonged to me," replied l'Encuerado.
Our encampment was
established at the entrance of
a fresh glade. L'Encuerado
had killed five or six small
birds; we were, therefore,
certain of something for
dinner. We had scarcely
finished our building
operations, when Lucien,
who had been prowling
about, lifting up stones and
looking under stubs in order
to find insects, loudly called
out to me. When I got up to
him, I saw at the bottom of a
hole a coral-serpent,
measuring about a yard in
length. The reptile was coiled
up, and remained motionless
while we admired its
beautiful red skin, divided at
intervals with rings of
shining black. L'Encuerado "Lucien loudly called out to me."
promptly cut a forked stick
and pinned the animal down to the ground. The prisoner immediately tried
to stand up on end; its jaws distended, and its head assumed a menacing
aspect. Gringalet barked at it furiously, without, however, daring to go near.
The Indian unsheathed his cutlass—the prospect of an unlooked-for
addition to dinner quite delighted him.
The flesh of the serpent is a well-known Indian dish. Previous to the
conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards, the rattlesnake itself found its place at

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their highest festivals. Dioscorides[M] prescribed the flesh of the viper as a
tonic, and it formed one of the component parts of theriaca, the great
panacea of our ancestors, which was one of the principal branches of
Venetian commerce. In spite of all these precedents, the dish proposed by
l'Encuerado was unanimously rejected.
Having cut off the serpent's head, we all went off to reconnoitre. Going
in pursuit of a troop of squirrels, we were led to the edge of the glade
without having been able to reach them. A little way in the forest,
Sumichrast espied a small russet-colored owl, which suddenly disappeared
in a hollow at the foot of an old tree. We all kept quiet for ten minutes, in
order to observe the bird's way of hunting. At last it suddenly reappeared,
and, standing motionless and upright upon its legs at the entrance of its
place of refuge, it looked very like a sentinel on duty in his watch-box.
Suddenly it started, and slightly bending its body, winked its great yellow
eyes several times; then, skimming over the ground with the swiftness of an
arrow, it darted into the high grass. It soon made its appearance again, with
its feathers erect and flapping its wings. It held in its mouth a poor little
mouse, which it carried off into its subterraneous retreat. It was the species
of owl called Athene hypogæa, which is often met with in the savannahs,
and hunts in the day-time as well as in the night.
"What a comical-looking bird!" said Lucien; "and yet I'm half afraid of
its brilliant eyes and hooked nose."
"Every one is frightened at him, Chanito," replied l'Encuerado; "and
when he settles near a hut at night, and raises his dismal cry, he predicts the
early death of some one of those who hear him."
"That can't be," replied Lucien, "for there was an owl in a hole in our
garden wall, and papa would never have it disturbed; yet the owl made its
cry every night."
"Your father knows how to avert the spell. Besides, the bird that lived in
the wall was a common owl."
"Both in Europe and America," interposed Sumichrast, "screech owls,
and their kinsmen, the common owls, barn owls, buzzards, and all nocturnal
birds of prey, are looked upon by the ignorant as birds of ill omen. Their

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strange appearance and their mysterious habits give rise to a repugnance
which often changes into fear. It is quite wrong to have any dread of them;
as a matter of fact, the bird you have just seen is, like all its species, more
useful than injurious to man, for it destroys a vast number of small
mammals—jerboas, shrew-mice, dormice, and field-mice, which ravage the
farmer's crops. You will recollect that the owl, among the ancient Greeks,
was the bird of Minerva; with the Aztecs it represents the goddess of evil."
A little way from the spot where we lost sight of the mouse-eater, there
were some enormous holes dug out by the tuzas,[N] the Mexican moles, so
dreaded by agriculturists. This animal is about the size of a kitten; it lives in
companies, and works underneath the surface of the soil in a way very
dangerous to travellers, who suddenly find the ground sink under their feet.
L'Encuerado, who was very fond of the flesh of the tuza, which used to be
sold in the Indian markets, placed himself in ambush in the hopes of killing
one. Five minutes had scarcely elapsed when we heard a gunshot, and the
hunter made his appearance with a rather ugly little animal, having a dark-
brown coat, short feet, ears and eyes almost imperceptible, a mouth
furnished with formidable incisors, and on each side of its jaws a vast
pouch filled with earth. Lucien declared that he would never consent to eat
of this creature, and promised his share to l'Encuerado.
Our attention was again attracted towards the forest by the cries of five
or six toucans, and again we set off in chase. These birds are extremely
suspicious, and their capricious flight almost baffles pursuit. I succeeded,
however, in killing one; the others flew off, raising cries of anger.
"How can they bear the weight of such an enormous beak?" asked
Lucien, who had run to pick up the bird, and was struck with admiration at
its beautiful green and yellow plumage.
"Nature has made provision for that: the enormous beak, which seems so
heavy, is composed of a very light porous substance."
"Then it can not eat any thing hard?"
"No; its flexible beak could not crush any unyielding substance, and it
feeds on nothing but soft fruits; and even these it breaks up awkwardly. If

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we could have got near them, you would have seen them plucking berries
and tossing them in the air, so as to catch them in their immense jaws."
"What good is its great mouth?"
"I can't say; for the naturalists, who have been as much puzzled as you
are by this peculiarity, have been unable to explain it."
"Then I am more learned than they are," said l'Encuerado, with a
magisterial air.
"Do you know, then, why toucans have such exaggerated beaks?"
"Because they have been made by a wise Creator," replied the Indian.
"No doubt about that," remarked Sumichrast, smiling; "but the point is,
why they were made so."
"Because their beak, calcined and reduced to powder, is the only
efficacious remedy for epilepsy. Toucans are very scarce birds, and if their
beaks were no larger than those of other birds of their size, this medicine
could never be obtained in sufficient quantities."
L'Encuerado's explanation was perhaps as good as our uncertainty. I
remember that the Indians do, in fact, make a great mystery of a powder
against epilepsy, and that a toucan's head may often be noticed hanging up
to the wall of a hut, as a preservative against St. Vitus' dance.
Instead of resting, Lucien prowled about in every direction, breaking
away bark, and lifting stones with all the ardor of a neophyte in
entomology. Since meeting with the coral-serpent, he took precautions
which gave me confidence; for it is quite uncertain how a reptile or any
other creature may behave when it is disturbed. The child suddenly called
out to me; he had just discovered a nest of scolopendræ, commonly called
centipedes, and he was afraid to touch them. The centipedes, surprised at
being disturbed, rolled themselves up; their pale blue color somewhat
diminishing the repugnance which their appearance generally excites. It
was not without some hesitation that Lucien, encouraged by Sumichrast,
ventured to place one on the palm of his hand; the insect gradually unrolled
its articulations, each of which was provided with two pairs of feet ending

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in hooks, but its walk was so slow as rather to disappoint the young
observer.
"What is the use of having forty-four feet," he cried, "if the centipede
can not get on faster than a carabus, which only has six?"
L'Encuerado could alone explain this mystery; but still he kept silence.
"Are these creatures poisonous, M. Sumichrast?"
"It is said so; but some species—that, for instance, which you are
examining—may be handled without danger."
"Here is a little centipede with only twelve legs."
"It has only just come out of the egg; their rings increase in number as
they grow older, and this is one of their peculiarities."
"How hard the rings, are! they are almost like armor."
"It is armor, in fact; the scolopendræ form a line of demarkation, so to
speak, separating insects from crustaceans; centipedes are not very distant
relations of lobsters."
"Look, papa! I have just found a chocolate-colored worm, which looks
like a centipede."
"That's not a worm; it is an iulus, first cousin to the centipede. Don't take
it up in your hand, for it will impregnate your fingers with a sickening
odor."
We resumed our progress towards our encampment, Lucien and
l'Encuerado preceding us. The weather was warm without being
suffocating; the slanting rays of the sun were moderated by the foliage, the
birds were singing, and to-day, like yesterday, seemed as if it would be one
of the least fatiguing in our journey. We were now in the midst of the Terre-
Tempérée, and were surrounded by white and black oaks. Ceibas, elm,
cedars, and lignum-vitæ trees only grew here and there; and the mosquitoes,
so plentiful in the Terre-Chaude, did not trouble us here. The timber,
growing widely apart, allowed us to pass easily; we were in a virgin-forest,

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but were still too high up above the plains to have to struggle against the
inextricable net-work of tropical creepers.
The tuza made its appearance at our dinner, dressed with rice. Although
the appearance of this animal is repulsive, its flesh has an exquisite flavor. I
offered a piece of the thigh to Lucien; he found it so nice, that he soon held
out his plate—or rather his calabash—for more. Sumichrast told him he was
eating some of the mole, though not aware of it: he appeared confused at
first, but soon boldly began on his second helping. After the meal,
l'Encuerado took from an aloe-fibre bag a needle and bodkin, and set to
work to mend Lucien's breeches, torn a day or two before. Two squirrels'
skins were scarcely sufficient for the would-be tailor, who lined the knees
also with this improvised cloth. Lucien was delighted at this patching, and
wanted to try on his mended garment at once. He waddled about, ran, and
stooped in every posture, quite fascinated with the rustling noise produced
by the dry skins. Gringalet, who had been asleep, suddenly came up to his
young master with visible surprise. With his neck stretched out, his eyes
glittering, and his ears drooping, ready to retreat in case of need, the dog
ventured to take a sniff at l'Encuerado's work, then shook his head
energetically and sneezed. After repeating this operation two or three times
he seemed to be lost in thought.
"He knows all about it, and can see at once that it is not badly sewn,"
said l'Encuerado, with evident satisfaction.
But all of a sudden, after a final and more conscientious examination, the
animal began barking furiously, and seizing hold of the patches that had
been so industriously sewn in, he tried to tear them away.
"The simpleton fancies the squirrel is still alive!" cried the Indian.
Although driven away at least twenty times, Gringalet kept on returning
to the attack, and he assailed the trowsers with so much ardor that a fresh
rent was made. Then l'Encuerado became angry, and the dog having been
punished, went and crouched down by the fire; but he still continued to
show his teeth at the strange lining which seemed so offensive to him.
The sun was setting; its golden rays, quivering among the branches,
appeared one by one to get higher and higher until gloom began gradually

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to pervade the forest. We were assembled around our bivouac, when a rosy
tint suddenly illumined the tops of the trees and penetrated through the
foliage. As this marvellous effect of light appeared to last a considerable
time, we again went into the open glade, so as to be better able to observe it.
The sky appeared as if it was all in a blaze; vast glittering jets of light
seemed as if darting from the setting sun; a few clouds, tinted with bright
red color, flitted across the heavens. The bright gleam became more and
more vivid, but without at all dazzling our eyes. A few birds might be heard
uttering shrill cries; and the falcons, who were making their way to their
aeries, stopped for a moment their rapid flight, and whirled round and round
in space with an undecided air.
"The wind will blow tremendously to-morrow," said l'Encuerado; "only
once before did I ever see the sky lighted up as it is to-night, and then two
days after there was a frightful hurricane, which demolished most of the
huts in our village."
"I think we shall get off with nothing but a south wind like that which
worried us the day we set off," said Sumichrast.
Wrongly or rightly, I attributed this phenomenon of light to the position
of the clouds. The intensity of the light decreased till it was nothing but a
glimmer. Night resumed its empire, and there was naught to guide us back
to our bivouac but the flame of our fire.

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Page 108

CHAPTER IX.
THE SOUTH WIND.—THE HURRICANE.—A FEARFUL NIGHT.—THE
UPROOTED GIANT.—THE SARSAPARILLA-PLANT.—GRINGALET
DISCOVERS A SPRING.—OUR BIVOUAC.

L'Encuerado's prediction seemed as if it was likely to be realized. About
three o'clock in the morning we were awakened by a hoarse roaring; the
trees seemed to shiver; sometimes the uproar appeared to grow less and
almost to cease, and then broke out again louder than ever. I hastened to
warm some coffee; but two or three times the intermittent squalls scattered
the burning fagots of our fire, and the hot ashes nearly blinded us. This
mishap was owing to the open glade being so near to us, across which the
wind rushed furious and unrestrained. Almost before daylight appeared, I
led my companions farther under the trees, the state of the atmosphere
making me feel very uncomfortable. The lofty tree-tops, roughly shaken by
the wind, showered down upon us a perfect hail of twigs and dead leaves.
We were almost deafened by the noise of the clashing boughs; sad and
silent we proceeded on our way, perceiving no signs of any living creature,
and in much trouble how we should obtain our dinners.
Towards mid-day, the wind fell; puffs of heat, which seemed to spring
from the ground beneath, almost suffocated us. Lucien did not say a word,
but, in spite of my advice, he was constantly lifting his gourd to his lips, a
proceeding which could only excite his thirst. Gringalet, instead of
frolicking about, as was his custom, followed us closely, drooping his ears
and tail. We were, I believe, the only living beings moving under the shade,
which now seemed converted into a hot furnace.
Meeting with some rocks, we made up our minds to hurry on, thinking
to come upon a stream; a vain hope!—the rocks soon came to an end, and
were succeeded by a perfect labyrinth of trees. If there had only been a little
grass, we should have set to work to construct our hut; for the dry heat,
blown up by the south wind, rendered exertion almost unbearable.

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A second time we found ourselves among rocks; but they were so
enormous, and so close together, that it was evident we were in the vicinity
of a mountain.
"Hiou! hiou! Chanito," cried the Indian, joyously; "forward! forward! we
are very nearly at the end of our troubles."
The boy smiled and adopted the swift pace of his guide, while
Sumichrast lengthened his strides so as to get in front of me. Following my
companions, we soon came upon a dry, barren spot in front of a steep
ascent. After we had all taken breath, I gave it as my opinion that we should
overcome our fatigue and scale the side of the mountain; but no one showed
any inclination to move.
My poor Lucien lay panting on the hard stones, with his mouth dry, his
lips bleeding, and his face purple with the heat; he had thought the day's
work was over. Nevertheless, as soon as he saw us starting again, up he got
and followed us without a word of complaint. I wished to lighten his
burden; but he heroically refused, and proportioned his pace to that of
l'Encuerado. Gringalet was continually sitting down, and hanging out his
tongue to a most enormous length; it was, doubtless, his way of testifying
that he moved an amendment against the length of the journey.
"We were quite wrong in finding fault with the shade," said Sumichrast;
"for in this unsheltered spot the heat is more insupportable than under the
trees. The sun seems to dart into us as if its rays were needles' points."
"Don't drink, Chanito! don't drink!" cried l'Encuerado to Lucien.
The poor little fellow replaced the gourd at his side, and bent on me such
a heart-rending look that I caught him up in my arms.
"Let us make a halt," said my friend, who was sheltering himself under a
gigantic rock; "I confess that I am dead-beat."
It was a great relief when we were seated down and deprived of our
burdens; but, instead of setting to work, according to our usual custom, to
collect wood for our fire and to construct our hut, we remained idle, looking
at the horizon, without exchanging a single word. At our feet extended, as
far as we could see, the tree-tops of an immense forest. We had turned our

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backs upon the volcano of Orizava; on our right the black summits of the
Cordillera stood out against the red sky; the urubu vultures were whirling
round and round high up above us—the only living creatures we had set
eyes on since the evening before.
It was now four o'clock; a kind of hot blast beat into our faces,
producing the same sensation as that experienced in front of a furnace when
the door is suddenly opened. The south wind sprung up again, and squall
succeeded squall—the forest undulating like a liquid surface.
I in vain endeavored to overcome the state of nervous prostration which
had come over me; the terrible wind which parched and burned us took
away all power of will. Our eyes were inflamed, our lips cracked, and our
heads heavy, and no one cared about eating; all we longed for was water,
and we were obliged to watch Lucien, to prevent him emptying his gourd.
He was nibbling a morsel of totopo, which he, like us, could hardly
swallow. Sheltered behind the rock, we contemplated with dread the
colossal trees round us, which swayed and bent, sprinkling the ground with
their scattered boughs.
The sun set, pale and rayless, as if drowned in the ill-omened yellow
clouds. The wind kept puffing and blowing at intervals. A few minutes' lull
enabled us to collect a little grass, and then, seated side by side, we watched
the approach of night, dark, desolate, and starless; but the comparative
coolness of the atmosphere gave some little relief to our exhausted lungs.
Lucien went off to sleep; Sumichrast and l'Encuerado tried to follow his
example; Gringalet seemed afraid to go far away, and crouched down at our
feet. Ere long, I was the only one of the party who was awake.
What an awful night! About nine o'clock the squalls ran riot with
unexampled violence; if it had not been for our shelter behind the rock, we
should surely have been swept away. From the forest beneath came a roar
like that of waves beating against a cliff; branches broke off with an uproar
sounding like a series of gun-shots, and the leaves, driven by the wind,
covered us with their débris. Every now and then an inexplicable and
increasing hoarse rumbling filled my mind with anxiety. I listened, holding
my breath with fear; the rumbling seemed to approach, as if bringing with it
new and unknown perils. Then suddenly, prevailing over the tumult, a

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formidable crash made itself heard, followed by a shock prolonged by the
echoes; it was the fall of some forest giant, vanquished by the hurricane.
Sometimes one might have fancied that a multitude of men were fighting
together in the darkness that no eye could pierce; there were plainly to be
recognized the wild cries of the conflict and the plaintive moans of the
wounded; and then, again, a fresh shock shook the earth, and deadened the
outburst of the mighty lament.
I must confess that at this moment I bitterly regretted having brought
Lucien; I remembered that my friends had predicted to me all the perils
which now threatened us. While listening to the uproar of the tempest, I felt
my resolution give way, and I had serious thoughts of returning to Orizava
the next day.
Towards midnight the storm abated a little, and, giving way to fatigue, I
fell asleep.
I had only just closed my eyes when I suddenly jumped up again,
deafened as if by a hundred claps of thunder joined in one. The darkness
was as thick as ever, and the wind was still more boisterous; the echo of the
fallen tree had scarcely died away before another colossus groaned and fell.
My companions were now all awake.
"What's the matter, M. Sumichrast?" asked Lucien, in a low tone.
"It is a hurricane, my boy."
"One might fancy that a giant was passing through the wood, shouting
and whistling, and breaking down all the trees as he went along."
"I wish that was all," replied Sumichrast; "but it's something much
worse; it is the south wind, the sirocco of the Mexican coast."
"Will it sweep us away, M. Sumichrast?"
"I hope not; thanks to the rock which shields us."
A tree now fell close to us, and covered us with dust. Clinging tightly to
one another, every moment brought with it a fresh anxiety. We dared not
speak of our feelings, for fear of frightening our young companion, who
pressed close up to me. Amidst the universal destruction going on, it only

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needed a branch driven by the squall to dislodge our shelter, for us to be
swept away like chaff before the wind. I had witnessed many a hurricane,
but this fearful night exceeded all.
At last daylight appeared; the sun rose gloomily, and exposed the
disasters of the terrible night. On every side trees, broken and uprooted, lay
prostrate on the ground, or, half suspended by the creepers entangled in
their branches, were balanced like the formidable battering-rams of the
ancients. Lucien was speechless at the sight before his eyes. A sudden
cracking noise was heard, and another forest giant slowly bent over, and,
describing a rapid curve, crushed its branches against the ground; ten
seconds destroyed the work of centuries.
L'Encuerado attempted to go two or three yards beyond our rock; but,
surprised by a sudden gust, he had but just time to throw himself prostrate
on the ground to prevent being swept away. Something, however, had to be
done; it was no use trying to light a fire, and yet, after yesterday's fast and a
sleepless night, we felt great need of some comforting beverage. The
squalls gradually abated, but were still every now and then violent. Intervals
of profound silence succeeded to the uproar of the storm, when the leaves
were motionless; then we might have fancied the tempest was over. But
suddenly the frightful roar again commenced, and the gale covered the
ground with fresh fragments.
We were beginning to take courage a little, when a formidable crash
resounded above us; an enormous pine, growing on the mountain a hundred
feet over our heads, tottered and then fell, tumbling down the slope with a
horrible uproar. Quick as lightning, l'Encuerado seized Lucien, and lay
down with him along the foot of the rock; I and my friend immediately
followed his example. The fallen giant came crashing down in rapid
bounds, smashing every thing in its path, and accompanied in its descent by
masses of broken rock. It struck against the block that sheltered us, which
gave forth a dull sound, but fortunately resisted the shock; and then the tree,
clearing the obstacle with a prodigious bound, continued its impetuous
course down to the foot of the mountain. We were nearly crushed by a
perfect avalanche of stones which followed in its wake.

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I raised myself, not without emotion. The danger had been serious;
indeed, the enormous rock to which we owed our safety had slightly
swerved. If this accident had occurred in the middle of the night, the fright
would have driven us out of our place of shelter, and we should certainly
have been destroyed. I first returned thanks to God, and then to l'Encuerado,
who, being close to Lucien, had shielded the boy with his own body. The
child, who fully comprehended the danger, hung round the Indian's neck.
"I shall tell mamma that you saved my life!" cried he, kissing
l'Encuerado.
The latter would have replied, but, affected by the caresses of his young
favorite, he could only press him in his arms, while two tears trickled down
his dark cheeks.
"His lordship, the wind, is very good to take so much trouble to show us
his power," exclaimed the Indian, addressing the wind, in order to hide his
emotion; "a grand miracle, indeed! to uproot a pine that was going to die of
old age, and to roll it down a mountain-side! Why, I could do the same if I
chose, with the help of my machete. Oh yes! blow away! and knock down
another tree on us, and then you'll thoroughly convince us that the devil is
your patron!"
In spite of the serious nature of the occurrence, Gringalet was the only
one among us who could hear this speech without a smile; and even the dog
rubbed up against the orator's legs, as if to show his approval of all he had
said.
The hurricane now subsided; but it was likely enough to redouble its
intensity at night, and reason dictated that we should take advantage of the
calm for moving onward. L'Encuerado resumed his load, and with a
watchful eye led the way up the mountain. I took Lucien by the hand; for
there was a danger that some tree which had been shaken by the storm
might suddenly fall across our path.
The heat, which continued to inconvenience us, rendered walking a very
laborious effort. The lips of our young companion were all cracked, and he
spoke with difficulty. We suffered dreadfully from thirst; but it was
necessary to bear it patiently, and to be very saving with the small stock of

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water which still remained in our gourds. Soon we came upon the spot
where, an hour before, the tree had stood, the fall of which had so nearly
crushed us. A widely gaping hole exposed to our view the broken roots of
the colossus, and the earth round them was already dry. We pushed on with
much difficulty, exhausted, out of breath, and half famished; for, since the
night before, we had eaten nothing but some morsels of maize-cake.
Moreover, our eyes were so red and swollen that we were perfectly
disfigured.
"Oh, father, I am so tired!" said Lucien to me.
"So we all are, my poor boy; but we must pluck up our spirits again, and
keep on walking, for our lives depend on it."
"Father, I am so thirsty! and the water left in my gourd is quite warm."
"It will be better for you not to drink; for a few draughts of water taken
when walking increase perspiration, and make the thirst worse, instead of
quenching it."
The poor little fellow heaved a sigh, and crept closer to my friend, who
advised him to place in his mouth a small pebble, which alleviates thirst by
exciting salivation.
In spite of all our exertions, we made little or no advance, and a profuse
perspiration added to our exhaustion. Fortunately, every thing seemed to
indicate that the tempest was over. L'Encuerado led the way; his manner
appeared as if searching for something. At length I saw him throw down his
load and plunge into the thicket. Soon he reappeared, with his hands full of
a kind of mulberry, the fruit of the sarsaparilla, the acid flavor of which
much revived Lucien. We now understood l'Encuerado's peculiar way of
walking. He fancied he had noticed a young shoot of this plant, and at first
concealed the discovery from us, fearing some deception. I can hardly
describe the pleasure that was afforded us by obtaining these berries in such
a welcome time. This shrub, with its vine-like and thorny stalk, abounded
on the steep slope.
We resumed our march in much better spirits, thanks to this God-send.
L'Encuerado filled his cap with them, and walked on bravely, with his head
bare. Another half-hour's climbing brought us to the verge of the forest.

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Suddenly I lost sight of Gringalet. I called him several times, and at last he
emerged from a clump of shrubs, with his tail and muzzle wet. Sumichrast
rushed in search of the water, and soon cried out to us in a joyous voice—
"A spring! a spring!"

We all tried who could get to it first. Under the foliage of sarsaparilla our
companion was kneeling down and catching in his hands a little streamlet
of limpid water, which was trickling from between two rocks. With keen
enjoyment, he was sprinkling it over his face and arms, an example each of
us soon imitated. At last I hurried our party away, for the horrible roaring of
the hurricane still seemed to din in my ears, and as yet we had no shelter
within our reach. After having filled our gourds, we recommenced our
climbing, enlivened by l'Encuerado, who kept on congratulating Gringalet
upon his discovery, and promising him, as his reward, a whole series of
good dinners.
The hour was now approaching at which we feared that the hurricane
would recommence with redoubled violence; so it became highly necessary
to select a spot for our bivouac. Moss and lichens here covered the rocks
with a variegated carpet, and, in proportion as we ascended the mountain,
the cooler air relieved our lungs. At length our ascent came to an end, and
we found ourselves on a plateau dotted over with stunted shrubs, distorted
and twisted with the winds and storms. Fresh summits rose in front of us,
but they were too far off to cause us any fear. Sumichrast halted near three

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gigantic stones, placed so as
to leave a space between
them, in which we could
encamp, as if in a fortress.
This spot we selected for
our bivouac. The wind still
blew in squalls, but the
increased clearing of the
atmosphere gave us reason to
hope that we should have
nothing more to fear from the
hurricane. We all went in
search of firewood, and ere
long after were enlivened by
the gleam of an immense fire.
At sunset, the glittering
beams of the sun's very last
rays reached our camp. The
sky was blue, and the air was
fresh, so I abandoned the idea
of returning home. Night
"Sumichrast halted near three gigantic came on, a fine rain purified
stones." the air, and the damp earth
breathed forth a wholesome
fragrance. Overcome by fatigue, we wrapped ourselves up in our sarapés,
and soon fell into a sound sleep.

Page 117

Page 118

CHAPTER X.
THE RABBIT.—WILD POTATOES.—A DIFFICULT PATH.—AN EXTINCT
CRATER.—HOAR-FROST.—THE TORRENT.—THE FAWN.—THE
TETTIGONES.—THE DRAGON-FLIES.

The next day, when I opened my eyes, the sun was shining brightly in a
blue sky. I made up the fire, and walked off, with my gun on my shoulder,
to try and obtain some kind of game, so as to surprise my companions when
they got up. For about a quarter of an hour I traversed tracts of heath which
reminded me of my native country, when a too confiding rabbit came
frisking along within gunshot, which I knocked over and placed in my
game-bag.
On my return all were up, standing round the fire, and they hailed me as
a conqueror. The terrible trials of the day before seemed to be entirely
forgotten; even Lucien had recovered all his liveliness. L'Encuerado took
the rabbit, and in an incredible short space of time had it skinned, and
placed to broil on the burning coals.
"Well! what do you think of hurricanes?" asked Sumichrast of Lucien,
who was watching him cleaning his gun.
"They are most awful! I should never have thought that the wind, which
is invisible, could have blown down and broken up trees as big as that one
which almost fell upon us."
"Were you much frightened?"
"Rather; and so were you, for you were quite pale."
"The danger was much greater than you imagined. If the uprooted tree
had pitched on our rock, it would have upset it, and crushed us beneath."
"Then the wind must be much stronger in forests than in towns?"
"No; for the hurricane of yesterday probably destroyed entire villages. It
was one of those tropical storms which happily only break out at long

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intervals. Many an Indian is at this moment rebuilding his destroyed hut."
Lucien looked very thoughtful, and went and sat down at the foot of a
tree. When I passed near him, I saw he had tears in his eyes.
"What's the matter?" I asked.
"I was thinking of mamma and my brothers. M. Sumichrast told me that
the tempest must have demolished whole villages; so perhaps our home has
met with some misfortune."
"Don't be frightened, my dear boy! Thank God! stone walls can
generally stand against wind. Besides, this hurricane can hardly have been
felt at Orizava. At all events, your mamma has more reason to be anxious
about us, for she knows that we are far from shelter—exposed to all its
violence."
I kissed poor Lucien, and comforted him as well as I could, assisted by
l'Encuerado, who soon afterwards took him off to look after our roast
rabbit.
The tochtli, or Mexican rabbit, is different from the European species,
although it has the same colored coat and instincts. In fact it is a hare.
"Do you know the family of the animal we are going to have for
breakfast?" asked Sumichrast.
"Yes; it is a Rodent."
"Well done; but how did you recognize it to be so?"
"By the absence of canine teeth in its jaws, its large incisors, and its hind
legs being longer than its fore legs."
"Come, your memory is good. You should also know that, in Europe, the
rabbit, which is nearly allied to the hare, is thought to be a native of Africa.
Formerly, the Aztecs used to sacrifice hundreds of these animals to the
goddess Centeutl, who is the Ceres of Mexican mythology; and the nobles
used to wear cloaks made of the hair of the hare, mixed with cotton. With
regard to the larger hare, known farther north as the Jackass rabbit, the
Indians generally refuse to eat its flesh, under the pretense that it feeds on

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dead bodies, a mistake which as yet they have not been persuaded to
abandon."
We did justice to our game
like guests who have to make
up for a forced fast. The meal
finished, without further delay
our little coterie moved on
again. Instead of the abundant
and bushy thickets of
sarsaparilla, we met with
nothing but stunted shrubs.
However, as we approached
the mountain the vegetation
assumed a richer aspect, and
the bare rocks no longer
protruded through the soil.
Here and there, tanagers, with
black backs, yellow breasts,
and violet-blue throats,
fluttered around us; also other
variegated birds of the
Passerine family. We were just
about to begin climbing the
slope, when l'Encuerado,
whose piercing eyes seemed to "A labyrinth of rocks brought us out in
see every thing, exclaimed: front of a stony rampart, more than a
"There are some potatoes!" hundred feet in height."

Lucien ran towards the Indian, who, with his machete, had already
cleared away the earth round a small plant with oval-shaped leaves, covered
with soft greenish berries. Some wrinkled tubercles were ere long
discovered, which we could easily crush between our fingers. This is the
origin of the valuable plant for which Europe is indebted to America.
After climbing some time, we came upon a mass of rocks all heaped up
in a perfect chaos. Some obstacle or other incessantly obliged us either to

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jump over or make a circuit so as to get forward. The temperature, however,
was refreshing, and rendered our exertions less fatiguing.
The chances of our journey brought us out once more upon the plateau.
All the mountain crests we could see were barren, and a profound silence
reigned on every side. We stopped to take breath, and the sight that met our
eyes impressed us with its stern grandeur. It reminded Sumichrast of the
Swiss mountains which he had so often traversed; and some flowers he
gathered further recalled his home. While thus occupied, two butterflies
fluttered over our heads.
"It is an Alpine species!" eagerly cried my friend.
The locality prevented him from following these capricious insects for
any distance: for one moment he leaned over the abyss, bristling up with
rocks, and followed, with a longing eye, the two winged flowers which had
recalled to him a fleeting image of his fatherland.
A labyrinth of rocks brought us out in front of a stony rampart more than
a hundred feet in height, and almost perpendicular. This unexpected
obstacle brought us to a halt. How should we make our way over it? Upon
examining the spot, we decided to incline towards the left, which seemed to
us the most accessible road. In parts the wall diminished in height, but we
tried in vain to climb it. A more successful attempt, however, brought us
nearly to the top, but not without great fatigue, for sometimes the rock
appeared to hang over us. At length, by climbing on to Sumichrast's
shoulders, I managed to reach the flat surface above. I hoisted up Lucien
here with the lasso; next I drew up Gringalet, who was only too pleased to
submit to the operation, and lastly Sumichrast and l'Encuerado. The terrible
obstacle was at last overcome; beyond it the ground was, comparatively
speaking, level, but covered with stones of a volcanic nature.
We still kept on our way, although it was four o'clock, in the hope of
finding some tree at the foot of which we could make our bivouac.
L'Encuerado put down his load to climb up a needle-shaped rock, the
extraordinary position of which reminded us of the celebrated leaning tower
of Pisa. When he had reached its top, the Indian called out to us that he
could see a clump of trees. The cold began to inconvenience us and we
wanted wood to make our fire, so, plucking up fresh courage, we continued

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our journey. The distance now traversed was inconsiderable; but the ups and
downs and circuits had quite wearied us. Gradually the rocks decreased in
size, and were more widely spread; a plain slightly depressed in the centre,
dotted here and there with thinly growing thickets, was reached. In the
background there was a clump of firs and a glittering lake, quite a liquid
oasis hidden in a desert.
It now became highly
necessary for us to seek
shelter, for our teeth were
chattering with the cold.
L'Encuerado, having climbed
a tree, cut down the wood that
was necessary for the
construction of a hut; while
Lucien broke all the dry
branches off, a task in which I
helped him. Sunset surprised
us ere we had finished our
labor. The waters of the lake
assumed a dark hue, and the
mountain peaks towards the
setting sun furrowed the sky
with their strangely irregular
outlines, and the breeze
resounding through the pine-
trees produced a solemn and
grave chant, a peculiarity
which has doubtless given to
"Sunset surprised us ere we had finished this species of tree the name
our labor." of Pinus religiosus. As the
rays of the sun died away and
the dark shadows covered the sky, the silence became still more profound.
Suddenly the last rays of the luminary vanished; the gathering darkness
imbued us with an emotion which those only can understand who, like us,
had found themselves face to face with some of the grandest emanations
from the Creator's hands.

Page 123

Lucien, too, was subject to the influence of the twofold majesty of
darkness and solitude; he was speechless, and looked by turns both at the
earth and the sky. The stars appeared glittering in the blue heaven, and were
reflected on the motionless surface of the neighboring water. Suddenly a
luminous ray seemed to dance over the lake, and then to divide into a
shower of sparks. It was the reflection of our fire, to which l'Encuerado had
just set a light.
The piercing cold was excessively trying: our sarapés did not seem
sufficient to protect us from its influence. Fortunately we had obtained fuel
enough to keep up the bivouac fire all night. Our meal, although without
meat, was a cheerful one. Each in turn retired to his pine-leaf couch; and
soon I alone remained up, not feeling an inclination for slumber.
What a contrast it was! The night before, at this time, we were deafened
by the uproarious wind, and the forests echoed with its fearful effects; while
we, perfectly helpless, sheltered behind a trembling stone, could scarcely
breathe the burning air. Twenty-four hours had hardly elapsed, and a few
miles had brought us on to a granite soil where we felt even unpleasantly
cold; it was no longer the uproar, but the silence, which awoke in my mind
the reveries of loneliness.
We rose before dawn, perfectly benumbed and hardly able to move our
lips. L'Encuerado stirred up the fire so as to get the coffee ready. The first
ray of light showed the ground covered with a white shroud of bright hoar-
frost. Lucien had never seen this phenomenon before, and was never tired
of admiring it. Sumichrast explained to him that the drops of dew, which
every morning may be seen glittering on the grass in hot countries, freeze in
situations of great altitude, and produce those beautiful transparent globules
which, owing to the refraction of light, assume so beauteous an appearance.
The rays of the sun warmed us but little, so I hastened our preparations
for departure. After skirting the edge of the lake, we once more found
ourselves among rocks. The summit which we had traversed was doubtless
the crater of some extinct volcano. I took a farewell look at the gigantic
semicircle, edged with mountain crests, ere commencing a journey quite as
difficult as that of the day before, through the immense stones which had

Page 124

been vomited forth by the burning mountain. More than once we got into a
cul-de-sac, and we sat down utterly discouraged.
For the last time I examined the horizon. We were now standing on the
highest summit of the Cordillera; opposite us, as far as we could see, rose
verdure-clad peaks, which gradually diminished in height. We were again
about to meet with tropical vegetation, and should ere long reach the plains
and forests of the Terre-Chaude. The way seemed direct and easy; but how
many obstacles must be overcome, how many valleys must be crossed, ere
we could reach our destination!
We descended the slope by a giant staircase, each step of which must
have been at least seven or eight feet in height. More than once the lasso
was called into use; but all obstacles were at last safely overcome. I can not
describe the joy I felt upon once more seeing pine-trees. We sought in vain
for any traces of the hurricane; this side of the mountain had evidently not
been visited by it.
The slope was now more gradual; our pace became faster, and a few
oaks were in sight. A rumbling noise made us stop and listen attentively, but
l'Encuerado, who was more expert than we were in making out distant
sounds, told us that it was a torrent. Squirrels gambolled on the branches as
we passed by, and toucans seemed to tempt us to stop; but we were all
anxious to reach the waterfall. Ere long, oaks and birches, and afterwards
guava-trees, surrounded us on every side. The ground was now level, and in
less than half an hour l'Encuerado conducted us to the edge of an immense
ravine, at the bottom of which there was a roaring torrent.
It was not long before the steep bank became less abrupt, and we
established our bivouac. While we were cutting down some branches,
Sumichrast put his finger to his lips and seized his gun. A slight noise was
heard in the thickets, and our companion disappeared. We were listening,
holding our breath, when we heard the screech as of an owl; we knew it was
a call, so l'Encuerado also glided away through the bushes.
"Why did M. Sumichrast call l'Encuerado?" asked Lucien, in a low
voice.
"Probably because he has discovered the trail of some animal."

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I had scarcely finished speaking, when a movement in the leaves
attracted my attention. A fine fox, with an eager look, and its tail lowered,
rushed past me. I fired, but without effect, for it bolted off among the trees,
followed by Gringalet. Almost at the same moment, a report told me that
l'Encuerado had also seen game.
Lucien was very sorry that I had missed the fox; I only regretted having
lost a charge of powder, and also having awkwardly put to flight the quarry
which was probably being pursued by my companions. I then continued my
work of cutting off the branches, and told Lucien to strike the flint and light
the fire. Thanks to l'Encuerado's lessons, he managed his work much better
than I had expected.
We heard Sumichrast give a call, to which Lucien answered, and the
disappointed hunter joined us.
"What did you fire at?" he inquired of me.
"At a fox, which I missed; were you chasing it?"
"No; I caught sight of a doe and its fawn, but I could not get near them."
"And where is l'Encuerado?"
"He wanted to shoot some bird, so as not to come back quite empty-
handed."
"Chanito! Hiou! Hiou! Chanito!" we heard shouted in the distance.
"Hallo! hallo!" answered the boy.
And, soon after, l'Encuerado returned, carrying a fawn on his shoulders.
"Oh! what a pretty little creature!" cried Lucien; "why didn't you take it
alive?"
"Bullets are the only things that can run as fast as these animals,
Chanito."
"What became of the mother?" asked Sumichrast.

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"I was not able to get near her; but at all events, we have more than
enough meat now, both for to-day and to-morrow."
Lucien took possession of the fawn. He had always longed to possess
one of these animals alive. He duly examined the slender legs and tapering
muzzle of the poor creature, whose fawn-colored back, dotted over with
symmetrically arranged spots, would change in color as it got older.
"Well, Master 'Sunbeam,' in what class will you place this mammal?"
asked Sumichrast, addressing Lucien.
"It is not like any of those I know."
"Well, then, you never can have seen goats, cows, or sheep. It is a
ruminant, or an animal which has three or four stomachs. Its lower jaw is
provided with eight incisors, while the upper jaw has nothing but a cushion
or gum."
"That's right enough," said Lucien, opening the fawn's mouth.
"In all ruminants, the food, when swallowed, passes into the first
stomach; it is then brought up to be chewed again; this is called 'chewing
the cud.' You must often have seen a cow or a sheep sitting quiet in the sun
and constantly chewing."
"Yes," replied Lucien, "and l'Encuerado always told me that they had
eaten some bitter herb."
"His explanation is about as correct as that given by the Mexicans, who
say that an animal which chews the cud is reading the newspaper. Another
characteristic of these animals is, that their feet are cloven."
"And they have horns!" cried Lucien.
"Not all of them; for instance, the camel, llama, and musk-deer, are
exceptions."
It remained for us to decide how our fawn should be cooked. After a
discussion on the subject, we left the point entirely to l'Encuerado, and I
made my way down to the bottom of the ravine. Upon lifting up some
stones and pieces of bark, I discovered several species of the Carabus

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family. Lucien caught on a shrub some insects of a very peculiar shape; at
the first glance, Sumichrast recognized them as tettigones.
"These insects belong to the Hemeptera family," said he, "therefore they
are allied to the bug and the grasshopper; these insects have neither
mandibles[O] nor jaws; their mouth is a sort of beak, formed of a jointed
tube extending along the breast, which you can see very plainly. This order
is a very numerous one, and the two species you have just found are
peculiar to Mexico."
"Here is one like a fowl, and another like a canoe."
"You are quite right, and you will meet with others which are still more
singular looking."
The appearance of these little creatures pleased Lucien very much, and,
as he was letting them run about on his hand, he saw them jump off and
disappear. He was just going to return to the shrub on which he had caught
them, when his attention was attracted by an immense dragon-fly,
commonly called in Mexico the devil's horse, and in France demoiselle. The
beautiful insect, after flying round and round, settled on a plant, and was
immediately caught in the young hunter's net. The prisoner had greenish
eyes, a yellow body, and its wings were dotted over with black and scarlet.
It doubled back its tapering body, as if to try and sting the hand which held
it, and shook its gauzy wings with a kind of metallic sound. A half-eaten
mosquito hung out of its mouth, and, although the dragon-fly was sadly
bruised, it continued its meal, much to the amusement of Lucien, who
hardly expected to find such tiger-like habits in an insect so elegant in form
and so harmless in appearance.
"It is of the order Neuroptera," I said to him; "thus called because of the
veins on its four wings. This insect first lives in the water in the form of a
larva, in which state it remains a year—it is very much like the insect you
are holding, only, all that can be seen of its wings are small swellings,
which grow longer each time the animal changes its skin. This swelling is a
sort of sheath to the beautiful gauzy wings which distinguish all the
Neuroptera, and the dragon-fly in particular."
"What! does the dragon-fly begin its life by living in water like a fish?"

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"Yes, and they are quite as voracious in that state as when they are
perfect insects. The larva changes to a grub, and greedily devours water-
lizards and young fish; after a certain time, which varies according to the
species, it rises to the top of the water by crawling up a reed, and remains
perfectly motionless, exposed to the rays of the sun; suddenly, the skin
covering the head bursts open, and the dragon-fly, spotted with black, blue,
and green, takes flight, and loses no time in darting upon the first insect
which comes within its reach."
My lecture was interrupted by the cry of "Hallo! hallo!" from
l'Encuerado. It was his substitute for a dinner-bell.

Page 129

Page 130

CHAPTER XI.
A BLUE LIZARD.—THE GUAVA-TREE.—A CATARACT.—NEST OF
YELLOW SERPENTS.—A VEGETABLE HELMET.—THE KINGFISHER.—
HUNTING WATER-FLEAS.—THE TADPOLE.—A COLLECTION OF
WATER-BUGS.

The rice-soup, our every-day fare, was, on this occasion, followed by
fawn cutlets broiled on the embers, accompanied by potatoes. This precious
tubercle, in its savage state, only reminded us very slightly of its cultivated
progeny. The pulp, instead of being floury, is soft, transparent, and almost
tasteless. That, however, did not prevent us from eating them, and doing
justice to our venison.
While we were smoking a cigar, which was called by Sumichrast,
according to circumstances, the calumet of repose, of council, or of
digestion, Lucien returned to the shrub on which he had previously found
the insects. He collected a great number of these, and also discovered a
third species, which was shaped like a triangle, with two horns at its base.
He ran to show us these miniature bulls. Afterwards, armed with a long
branch by way of a lever, he tried to raise up a decayed root covered with
moss. He succeeded to do it, after some trouble, and saw, cowering down
among the roots, a beautiful lizard; it had a greenish back, and its mouth
and the sides of its body were bright blue; it was a variety which we had
never before observed. The little animal, doubtless dazzled by the light,
allowed itself to be caught, and then suddenly bending down its head, bit
the boy's finger, who at once dropped it. L'Encuerado soon caught the
runaway.
"Didn't you know that lizards were harmless?" asked Sumichrast of
Lucien.
"That is why they bite, I suppose," replied the boy, shaking his head.
"Yes," said the naturalist, "but you needn't be afraid; its bite is not
venomous.

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"'This brute is surely not disposed to strife,
But you attack it, it'll defend its life.'"
Night came on. A multitude of insects whirled round and round our fire,
burning their wings as if they enjoyed it. Lucien wanted to know what
attracted so many of these poor creatures to the flame. As he inquired, two
or three great beetles suddenly appeared with loud buzzing, and at once
precipitated themselves into the burning coals.
"See what comes of giddiness," said Sumichrast. "If since we set out we
had walked blindly on without looking where we went, long ere this we
should have found ourselves at the bottom of some ravine."
"But these butterflies and beetles throw themselves into the fire on
purpose," said l'Encuerado, with the inflexible logic of facts.
"They are not aware that the flame will burn," I replied.
"That's true," murmured the Indian, in a tone of compassion.
Fatigue compelled us to give up our relaxation, and we soon went to
sleep in a warm atmosphere, which seemed all the more pleasant when we
remembered our sufferings of the night before.
Our slumbers were interrupted toward morning by the frequent cries of a
flight of passerines, called "alarum-birds" (despertadores) by the Mexicans.
It was hardly light, and, in spite of l'Encuerado's predictions, it had not
rained. The light of our fire, when we stirred it, soon drove away our
winged friends; but, thanks to their waking us, the first rays of the sun
found us all ready to set out. Just as we were going to start, an unforeseen
difficulty arose—how to cross the ravine and ford the river? L'Encuerado
said that it would be necessary to go up-stream; I, also, agreed with him.
Sumichrast, on the contrary, was of opinion that there was much more
chance of the banks becoming less steep if we went in the opposite
direction; he carried the day, and led the way, cutting a passage through the
shrubs with his machete.
As we were determined to skirt the edge of the water, we could not get
along without great difficulty. The noise of the torrent, which seemed to
grow louder, attracted us towards the forest, where the absence of grass and

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under-wood enabled us to get on faster. The trees grew farther and farther
apart, and we again came upon brush-wood, ere long coming out on to a
plain, dotted here and there with guava-trees. These trees furnished us with
a quantity of green fruit, of which we were all very fond. L'Encuerado
availed himself of this unexpected harvest by filling up all the gaps in his
basket with them. The wild guava, a sort of myrtle, which grows naturally
in the Terre-Tempérée, reaches to a height of several feet. Its fruit, which
seldom gets ripe before it is eaten by the birds or larvæ, is luscious, highly
scented, and full of pips; they have the reputation of being antifebrile and
astringent. When the shrub is cultivated, its appearance changes
considerably; its branches grow longer, and are covered with leaves which
are silvery on the back, and the fruit they yield are as large as lemons,
which they resemble in shape and color.
We all put on our travelling gear again; but when l'Encuerado wanted to
place the basket on his back, he found he could not possibly lift it up. I
helped him, trying all the time to persuade him to throw away half his
stock; but he resolutely refused to follow my advice. When he began to
walk, he staggered like a drunken man, and at last fell down beneath his
burden, and all the guavas rolled out on to the ground.
Our laughter rather hurt the brave Indian's feelings.
"By Jose-Maria!" he cried, holding up his hands towards heaven, "I am
getting old. Oh, what a disgrace, not to be able to carry a handful of guavas!
In my youth it would have taken three such loads as those to have made me
fall down on my knees like a broken-down horse. Poor old fellow!"
L'Encuerado was certainly exaggerating his former strength; but, at any
rate, it cut him to the heart to have to throw away so much of the fruit he
had gathered, and our insisting upon his doing so quite crowned his
vexation. With a view of consoling him, I reminded him that the guavas
would spoil in twenty-four hours, and that his basket held more than we
could possibly consume.
Sumichrast was walking about twenty steps in front of us, when
suddenly he stopped and drew back. When I got abreast of him, my eyes
met an immense ravine, at the bottom of which the torrent was rushing with
a loud noise. The water was first calm and sluggish, accumulating in a large

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basin, then it suddenly burst forth against an immense rock and
disappeared, roaring and foaming in two columns, which, after uniting,
broke into a thousand little cascades. We all wished to visit the bottom of
this ravine, in order to enjoy this wondrous sight in all its grandeur.
Before making our way into the brush-wood we put down our insect-
cases and game-bags, for the enterprise required our unimpeded agility. As
long as we could cling on to the plants and shrubs, the descent was mere
child's play; but we soon found ourselves treading on a reddish ferruginous
soil, which some great land-slip had exposed. Sumichrast was the first to
venture on this dangerous ground, which gave way under him at his third
stride. Our companion rolled over the declivity, instinctively grasping the
first branches he could reach; but he let go directly, uttering a piercing cry.
Fortunately a shrub kept him from falling into the gulf. I planted my feet as
deeply as I could in the crumbling soil, so as to be able to help my friend,
who, with his face contracted with pain, raised towards me his right hand,
which was already red, swollen, and covered with blisters. The branch he
had caught hold of in his fall belonged to a gigantic nettle, called by the
Indians Mala-mujer, or "bad-woman." This plant only grows on damp
banks—"a piece of malice," said l'Encuerado, "adopted in order to play
shameful tricks on unsuspecting travellers; towards whom it treacherously
stretches out its green stalks and velvety leaves as if offering them
assistance."
We felt quite grieved at Sumichrast's suffering; for we well knew by
experience the intolerable pain which is produced by the sting of this herb.
L'Encuerado took Lucien in charge, while I gave my assistance to the
injured man. For some distance we moved along without much difficulty,
but very soon a whole forest of nettles stood up in front of us. Lucien and
Sumichrast sat down, while the Indian and I, by means of our machetes,
opened out a narrow path; at last we reached again the timber land, so we
had now almost got out of our difficulties.
The stalks of the nettles, cut off a few inches above the ground, served to
give firmness to our footing. But l'Encuerado, always too confident, tripped
up, and his right cheek was brushed by some of their leaves; it only needed
this to render him perfectly unrecognizable. Although I pitied him, I could
not help smiling at the grimaces produced on his sun-burnt visage by the

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painful stings. Even
Sumichrast, when looking at
him, forgot his own
sufferings.
Under a cypress, we
observed five or six snakes,
each about a yard and a half
long. One, more courageous
than the others, remained
under the trees and steadily
surveyed our party. Gringalet,
furious in the extreme, barked
and jumped all round the
reptile, which, raising its head
from the centre of the coil
formed by its body, shot out
its tongue. Its skin was of a
golden yellow, dotted with
green spots, and streaked by
two almost imperceptible
black lines. L'Encuerado
called in the dog; the snake
"A shrub kept him from falling into the then coiled itself up, slowly
gulf." turning its head in every
direction, as if to select the
best direction for retreat. Suddenly it unrolled its whole length, exposing to
our view an unfortunate sparrow, which was still breathing. Leaving it
unmolested, after a few minutes' delay it seized its victim by the head, by
degrees the little feathered innocent disappeared, and the snake remained
motionless as though exhausted by the exertion.
"Is it a rattle-snake?" asked Lucien astonished.
"No; it is a common snake—that is, a reptile which is not venomous.
This one is called by the Indians the Yellow-snake, and, from ignorance,
they are in very great dread of them. It is in the habit of climbing trees with
great activity, and hunts birds. The statues of the Aztec god of war, the

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terrible Huitzilipochtli, to whom thousands of men were offered as living
sacrifices, had their foreheads bound with a golden snake, and we have
every reason to believe that the reptile which we have just seen is that
which the Indians thus honored."
A little farther on, Lucien fancied that he saw, stretched out upon the
grass, a long white snake. Gringalet, much bolder than usual, seized the
reptile in his mouth and brought it to us. But it was nothing but a serpent's
skin: I then told the child that all reptiles of this kind change their skin twice
a year, and they get out of it as if from a sheath.
We continued our descent, and l'Encuerado, who had taken the lead,
suddenly turned back to us with his head covered with an immense
vegetable helmet. I at once recognized it to be the flower of a plant I had
met with in the neighboring mountains. Nothing could be more splendid
than this blossom, which, before it is full-blown, looks like a duck sitting on
the water. In a single morning the enormous corolla opens out and changes
into a form resembling a helmet surmounted by a crest; the interior of it,
lined with yellow velvet, almost dazzles the eyes. The seed of this creeper,
the Indian name of which I forget, is flat, and of a heart-like shape, having
depicted on one of its faces a Maltese cross.

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Even Sumichrast for a
moment forgot his injuries
while examining this
wonderful flower, and Lucien,
finding a second, very soon
covered his head with it; but
the poisonous and penetrating
odor exhaled from the corolla
made him feel sick, so he
soon relinquished this novel
head-dress.
A few more steps brought
us to the bottom of the ravine,
and Sumichrast and
l'Encuerado set to work to
bathe their stings in the cool
water; while I and Lucien sat
down together on a rock,
washed on one side by the
stream, and leisurely
contemplated the beautiful
scene before us.
The Cataract.
In front of us was situated
an immense mountain, cleft open as if by the hand of some giant, the sides
of which were clad with a carpet of verdure of a thousand different shades.
At the bottom, as if for the purpose of stopping up the immense fissure,
there was an enormous accumulation of gray and dark-tinted rocks, between
which appeared, every here and there, the foliage of some tree, enamelled
with flowers. From the midst of the mountain, as if from some invisible
cavern, sprung out a large sheet of transparent water, which, although calm
and almost motionless in appearance, descended in one fall to a rock which
projected in the cataract, like the prow of a ship. As if rendered furious by
the shock, and seeming to revel in the uproar, the water, converted into
foam, bounded over the obstacle, and fell in two columns, separated by the
black point of crag; then, springing with impetuous speed, from step to step,

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down a gigantic staircase, it entered a receptacle hollowed out like a shell,
which received the foaming water, from whence it flowed gently into a
basin edged with verdure. The torrent, quieted for a time, resumed its
course, and striking against impediments, rolled on from fall to fall, and
from valley to valley, until it reached the plains, more than three thousand
feet beneath.
This cascade recalled to my memory one I had seen about a year before,
when exploring the environs of Tuxtla, in the Terre-Chaude—viz., the Fall
of Ingénio—one which would be reckoned among the most celebrated in
the world, if access to it was not rendered almost impossible by the
wilderness.
The sufferings of our two companions were so much alleviated by the
application of water that they soon came and sat beside us. I can not
describe the proud enjoyment we all felt in this wild spot. We were face to
face with this unknown cascade, which we were, perhaps, the first
Europeans to contemplate. Behind us the mountain sides seemed to unite
and hem in the bed of the torrent. The sun bathed with its rays that portion
which was bordered with large trees, among which kingfishers were
skimming about. One of these birds came and perched close to us—its
breast was white, its wings black on the upper side, and its head-feathers
dark green; its stout, thick-set shape, and its short tail, made Lucien remark
that it looked like a malformed creature. Always restless, it almost
immediately resumed its abrupt flight over the surface of the water, and
disappeared among the windings of the ravine.
Lucien pointed out to me an immense willow, the branches of which,
drooping over the water, seemed to have at their ends enormous gourd-
shaped fruits. I recognized in them the nests of those beautiful yellow birds,
spotted with black, which the Mexicans call calandres. To convince Lucien
of his mistake, l'Encuerado threw a large stone into the tree; the missile fell
from branch to branch, and more than a hundred frightened birds flew out
from their curious retreats. At first they appeared much alarmed; but when
this had subsided, they skimmed over the water, or entered their
impregnable habitations.

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We made our way down
the ravine in hopes of finding
a resting-place less rugged,
and after a long, winding,
tedious course, came upon a
sheet of calm water, flowing
over a bed of sand. The sun
was shining full open upon its
transparent surface, and, close
to the edge, hundreds of flies
were whirling about.
"Those are coleopteræ,"
said Sumichrast to Lucien.
"Why do they turn round
and round like that?" inquired
he.
"To find their food, for
they are carnivorous, and
require a great deal of
nourishment. In France they
are commonly called
tourniquets, or water-fleas."
Lucien wanted to catch
one, but could not succeed;
Fall of Ingénio (from a drawing by the l'Encuerado and Sumichrast
Marquis of Radepoint). joined in the pursuit. At first I
amused myself with watching
the useless efforts of my companions; but at last, thinking myself cleverer
than they, I squatted down also. There we all four were, with our hands in
the water, perfectly motionless, and holding our breath, the better to remain
motionless. The insects were all in a close mass, and whirling round like a
living mosaic, moving in every direction without separating; but however
quickly we raised our hands, we all failed in our efforts.

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An hour was spent in this way, and even then we should not have given
up the chase if the sun had not ceased to shine on the bank, and the insects
had therefore moved beyond our reach, so as to be within its influence.
Lucien, vexed at their going away, and l'Encuerado, furious at having been
conquered by the agile creatures, commenced throwing stones at them with
the hope of wounding one. Even in this they did not succeed, so l'Encuerado
satisfied himself by calling them fools, a name which, in his opinion,
constituted a gross insult.
About twenty tadpoles, swimming in a puddle of water, were taken by
Lucien for fish.
"They are frogs," I said to him.
"Where are their feet, then?"
"Under the brown skin, which makes them look like fish; when the time
of their metamorphosis arrives, this skin will split all down their back, and a
little frog will come out of it. Look at this tadpole I have just caught; you
can see the feet through its transparent skin. To-day it is a fish, that is to say,
it breathes through gills—those little tufts you see on each side of its head
—and perhaps to-morrow it will undergo that metamorphosis which will
cause it to breathe through its mouth. The Toltecs, the great nation which
preceded the Aztecs in Mexico, counted the frog among their gods."
When putting the tadpole back into the pool, I noticed some whitish
insects, which were incessantly rising in jerks to the surface of the water,
and diving down again directly. Lucien, astonished at their movements,
cried out—
"But, papa, they are walking on their backs!"
"You are quite right; they are hydrocorises, allied to the tettigones, and
consequently hemipteræ."
The young naturalist was more successful than in his gyrin-hunting, and
succeeded in catching two or three of these water-bugs.
"What is the use of their wings?" he inquired.
"Why, to fly with, and to move from place to place."

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"Then water-bugs are really able to fly, swim, and walk?"
"Yes; and I'm sure they can see in the dark, too," said l'Encuerado, who,
it may be remembered, envied animals this privilege.
"We are certainly justified in thinking so," I answered, smiling, "for they
nearly always choose the night for travelling. Take care they don't bite you,
for the water-bug bites as hard as its kinsmen of the woods and houses."
A little farther on, Lucien stopped in front of an herbaceous plant,
covered from top to bottom with round, flat black insects, speckled with
red, and almost resembling mosaic-work. He was very proud of his
beautiful discovery, and took hold of two or three of the insects; but feeling
their soft bodies give way in his fingers, he threw them down with disgust.
"Oh! what are these horrid creatures?"
"They are wood-bugs," replied Sumichrast; "only they are in the state of
larvæ, and have no wings."
"What has caused this nasty smell on my fingers?"
"When any one touches these insects, a very strong-smelling yellowish
liquid always exudes from them."
Lucien ran off to wash his hands. He rubbed them over and over again,
but could not quite get rid of the smell, which seemed to annoy him very
much. I concluded from this that in future he would not have many wood-
bugs in his collection.
After a long ramble at the bottom of the ravine, we had to return to our
starting-point, which was the only side by which we could obtain an exit.
We found the cataract perfectly bathed in light. The large upper sheet of
water looked like a block of azure-stone, while the spray beneath glittered
as if covered with diamonds. Above our heads a rainbow spanned the
stream from bank to bank.
I at last succeeded in tearing my companions away from this wondrous
scene. We had met with no game, but a great part of our fawn was yet
remaining in the basket. Sumichrast was still in pain, and l'Encuerado's face
continued much inflamed. We now had to ascend, and we each adopted the

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greatest precaution while passing the spot where we had seen the serpents. I
don't know how we should ever have got up if l'Encuerado had not thought
of cutting some branches of dwarf elder for walking-sticks. Above every
thing, I wished to keep Lucien from the suffering caused by coming in
contact with the Mala-mujer, as the Mexicans call it, and it was with a sigh
of relief that I saw him safe and sound out of this cul-de-sac.

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CHAPTER XII.
A RELATION OF GRINGALET.—OUR FOUR-FOOTED GUIDE.—A
REVIEW OF OUR PARTY.—THE ALLIGATOR-TORTOISE.—THE
PHEASANTS.—THE MAGNOLIA.—THE NUTMEG-TREE.—THE BLUE-
PLANT.—THE CATERPILLAR.

As the sun was setting, our wisest course was to go back to our bivouac
of the evening before, and to postpone until the next day the discovery of
the passage we had sought in vain. Upon the whole, the sight of the cataract
had amply repaid us for our useless walk.
Our little party, therefore, once more plunged into the forest, rather at
random, though taking care not to go too far from the stream. Two or three
times we seemed to have reached the spot where we left the bank; but we
soon got into the most inextricable thickets. As the time wore on, I began to
think we had passed the place; and, as is often the case in similar
circumstances, opinions were divided. A fox, which appeared within
gunshot, interrupted our discussion. I fired, and the animal fell. It was a
magnificent specimen, and exactly like its European confrere. By a singular
chance, at the very moment it was expiring, a crow just above our heads
uttered a loud croaking.
"There! the crow is thanking us for having rid him of his enemy, the
fox," said Sumichrast to Lucien.
The boy laughed heartily at this joke. In spite of our advice, l'Encuerado
would insist upon skinning the animal, whose pelt he wished to preserve.
Fortunately, he was very quick at such an operation, and the beautiful fur
was soon hanging over his arm, ready to be stretched outside his basket to
dry.
"I hope," said Sumichrast to Lucien, "that you have already recognized
the fox's relationship."
"Oh yes! in its color and shape it is like the cayotte."

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"You are quite right, but the cayotte and the fox are both Gringalet's
cousins."
"I can scarcely believe that, for Gringalet has short hair, is spotted with
black and white, has gray eyes—"
"Those are only secondary characteristics," interrupted Sumichrast.
"Gringalet belongs to the carnivorous type, called by naturalists
Digitigrades."
"Is Gringalet a digitigrade?" asked Lucien, smiling.
"Yes, certainly; that is to say, he walks on his toes, and not on the sole of
his feet, exactly like the fox, whose teeth, also, are perfectly similar to those
of Gringalet. The principal difference between them is, that the fox has eyes
which are formed so as to enable it to see in the dark, a quality which
Gringalet does not possess in the same degree."
"Are there such things as wild dogs?"
"Yes, although the point has been much disputed. But the dog, the
faithful companion of man, has been so long domesticated, that little
similarity of appearance exists between them. However, the cayotte, the
fox, and the wolf may be called wild dogs."
We had once more got into the midst of a thicket without discovering the
least trace of our resting-place. It became important that we should soon
find our starting-point. I noticed that Gringalet, instead of gambolling round
us as he generally did, remained behind, pricking up his ears, and appearing
excessively knowing.
"What do you think, shall we take Gringalet for our guide?" said I.
As soon as the animal heard his name mentioned, he rushed towards me,
and I patted him.
"Come, tell your dog to lead us to the bivouac," I said to Lucien.
"To the bivouac! to the bivouac!" cried the boy, patting the animal.

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Gringalet really seemed to understand, for he sniffed up the air, and at
once went to the front. I soon discovered that he was taking us back by a
very circuitous path.
"To the bivouac! to the bivouac!"
Gradually the noise of the torrent became more distinct, and our guide
plunged into the brush-wood. While we were cutting down the branches
that stopped up our path, Gringalet waited with his ears pricked up and one
foot uplifted. At last we caught sight of the hut, which was greeted with
such pleasure and relief as only known by fatigued travellers.
It was not without emotion that I again beheld this spot, to which I had,
as I thought, said good-bye forever. The scarcely extinguished embers, and
the shelter which we had raised, had quite a home-like appearance.
Sumichrast said he felt the same impression, and Lucien declared that his
first idea had been that we should find an Indian in the hut.
But what about Gringalet? Had he then really understood us? Those who
have made a trial of canine intelligence will not doubt the fact for a
moment. The word bivouac, having been so often pronounced since we set
out, must have struck both the mind and the ears of the animal, so as to
have become almost synonymous in his ideas with dinner and rest.
The next day at sunrise we set out, gently ascending the course of the
stream. Sumichrast's hand was still in pain, and quite prevented him using
his gun. L'Encuerado, though disfigured, had, at least, the free use of his
limbs. The inexperienced traveller is incessantly exposed to misfortunes of
this kind. Turned out into the midst of various unknown natural objects, he
carelessly plucks a leaf, breaks down a branch, or gathers a flower; and in
many cases his punishment is prompt and terrible, and the innocent
diversion of a second has to be expiated by hours of anguish. In the wild
life of the wilderness, dangers become so multiplied, that more courage
than is generally supposed is required to face them. Every explorer of
unknown scenes must make up his mind to endure hardships. More than
one whom I have seen start full of confidence, at the end of three days have
returned, wearied, bruised, ill, discouraged, and, in fact, conquered. By
degrees, of course, experience comes to the help of those whose moral
courage is strong enough to induce them to persevere. They soon learn to

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recognize at a glance the tree that it is best to avoid, the grass that must not
be trodden on, the creeper the touch of which is to be shunned, and the fruit
which should not be tasted. At last the requirements of the body are to some
extent mastered, and it follows the dictation of the soul without complaint.
The long-experienced traveller can scarcely fail to be astonished at the
delicate susceptibility of his casing of flesh, which is bruised by blows, torn
by thorns, devoured by insects, and yet, day after day, the persevering man
continues to face death under its most horrible aspects—poison from venom
of serpents, giddiness from sun-stroke, blindness from the power of the
moon, want of sleep, hunger, and thirst.
I had just taken a review of our situation when these reflections were
suggested to me. Halting, I permitted my comrades to pass me; their
appearance, after so many days' travel, I give. First, there was Sumichrast,
tall and broad-shouldered, his features displaying both mildness and energy;
one arm in a sling, his clothes torn to shreds, and his face furrowed by five
or six deep scratches; leaning on a stick carried in his left hand, he seemed a
little bent; but his vigorous form still told of abundant endurance and
determination. Behind him, his gun slung to his cross-belt, came Lucien,
slightly stooping, although his step was firm and determined; his face was
seamed with scratches, his hands bruised and brown from exposure. As he
passed in front of me, he smiled and gave a joyous hurrah, and lifted his
cap, beneath which his hair flowed down in golden curls. Gringalet, now
reconciled to the squirrels' skins, walked close by his master; truly he
looked like standing more work. Lastly, l'Encuerado, his arms and legs bare,
and laden with guavas, brought up the rear. The brave Indian tried to raise
his straw-hat as he passed by me, his bony visage expanded, and his smile
showed a row of white teeth which were worthy of competing with
Gringalet's. Well satisfied with my inspection, I shouldered my gun, and
resumed the head of the column.
The cliffs of the ravine became gradually more wooded, and the descent
was effected without accident. I kept along the bank looking out for a ford.
At last a bend of the stream, where the water flowed calmly and silently,
enabled us to do so without difficulty. I then proposed a halt. Close by us
rose some enormous rocks covered with moss, which, in flood-time, must
have been reached by the water; in front of us was a gentle slope covered
with turf.

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We were descending the slope when an object, indistinct at first,
emerged from the edge of the wood, and, appearing to roll more than run
over the grass, advanced toward us. It was an enormous tortoise; but a
tortoise which might successfully have raced with the hare. L'Encuerado
tried to stop it, but fell in his effort. Sumichrast, quite forgetting his bad
hand, dealt the animal a blow with the butt-end of his gun, the effect of
which was slightly to slacken the pace of the enemy. The Indian, furious at
his failure, threw down his load, and came running up. Our united efforts
succeeded, about twenty feet from the stream, in throwing the animal on its
back.
Lucien, rather startled at this scene, and at the size of the tortoise, then
came nearer to examine it. I kept him at some distance from the reptile, who
was viciously agitating its enormous feet, armed with formidable claws;
while its mouth, which was like a horny beak, opened and shut menacingly.
"It is a galapago," said l'Encuerado; "it is of no use for food."
This creature, which is called by the savants the alligator-tortoise,
measured more than a yard from its head to its tail. The latter appendage
was almost as long as the body, and was covered with a triple row of scaly
crests fitting into each other. The gray, wrinkled, and almost scaly skin of
the reptile formed rolls round its neck of a disgusting appearance—one
might almost fancy them unhealthy excrescences. The horrible beast turned
towards us its gaping mouth with a vicious manner. The turtle-fishers much
dread the galapagos, which, being more agile than the ordinary tortoise,
give them sometimes frightful wounds, either with their sharp claws or their
horny jaws. Their flesh is declared to be unwholesome.
Just as we were leaving, l'Encuerado wanted to cut off the reptile's head.
Sumichrast opposed this useless slaughter, and was inclined to replace the
tortoise on its feet. But the Indian refused to assist in this good work, for he
asserted that it was equivalent to leaving a rattlesnake alive. Two or three
times the animal was very nearly repaying our kindness by a bite; for, as
soon as we came near, it managed to twist round on its upper shell. We were
about to abandon it to its fate, when suddenly, the slope of the ground
helping us, we managed to set it on its feet; as soon as it was turned over, it
rushed at Lucien. The enormous rolls round its neck, being all distended,

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made it carry its head very forward, so, with a single blow of his cutlass,
l'Encuerado decapitated the assailant. We were then witnesses to a strange
sight, for while Gringalet was furiously attacking the motionless head, the
feet, continuing to move, bore along the body, which in a moment
disappeared in the lake. Although we had often before seen tortoises survive
for a considerable time wounds which were certainly mortal, the strength of
the nervous system which was exhibited in this reptile almost staggered us.
"Now, my brave friend, try and swim without your head, and take care
not to break your skull against the rocks!" cried the exasperated Indian.
"The father saves your life, and then you want to hurt his child! You hardly
saw me, or you'd have known that I am pretty well able to bite. Good-bye!
and take good care of yourself!"
We may readily see that the Indian was any thing but a generous enemy;
but the fact was, the galapagos were old enemies, for one had nearly bitten
off his hand while he was bathing. The turf-carpeted bank soon led us into
the thick forest again. We had been walking for more than an hour through a
perfect labyrinth of gigantic trees, and over a bare and yet rich soil—for it is
only in the glades that the ground is covered with grass—when l'Encuerado
heard the call of a small species of pheasant peculiar to this country.
"Bend towards the left to get near the game," said Sumichrast, in a low
voice; "and, whatever you do, don't shake the foliage."
"We're all right now," muttered l'Encuerado; "listen! I'll predict that we
shall have a good dinner to-day."
The Indian laid down his load, which Sumichrast and Lucien took
charge of, while I followed the former behind the trees. My companion
soon went a little in front, and imitated the cry of the bird we were
pursuing, so as to make them answer, and thus show us where they were
hidden. The imitation was really so perfect that I moved towards it, thinking
to find the bird, and of course came upon the Indian lying in ambush. This
same mistake had happened to me before with Sumichrast, who imitated the
voice of birds almost as well as the Indian. At last his cry produced an
answer, and at about a hundred yards from us, on the top of a not very tall
oak, were perched three enormous pheasants.

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Bent down and crawling behind the trees, I joined l'Encuerado, keeping
my eye fixed on the game, which stretched out their necks with an anxious
look, and seemed to be listening. Two gun-shots went off at once; one of the
birds fell dead at our feet, and the two others flew away. One of these
fugitives flew high above the tree-tops, but the other, being wounded, was
unable to follow its companion; I darted off in pursuit, making sure of
bagging it. The poor bird reached the ground and tried hard to run; I was not
more than fifty paces from it, when a tiger-cat, with a black coat, bounded
forward, and, seizing it, disappeared before I had time to recover from my
surprise. The marauder was abused as a thief and a rogue by l'Encuerado,
who had been a witness of this misfortune. Lucien examined the pheasant,
which was almost as big as a turkey; but its sombre plumage did not at all
answer to the magnificent idea which the boy had formed of this bird. He
thought that the head was much too small for the body, and its naked and
warty cheeks led him to observe that the pheasant had the appearance of
having put on two plasters of tortoise-skin, a remark which was certainly
well founded. With regard to the beautiful and many-colored pheasant-
species peculiar to Asia and Africa, Mexico possesses none of them, so far,
at least, as I know.
About two o'clock in the afternoon, Lucien remarked that the trees grew
farther apart, which was a sign that we were approaching an open glade or
the foot of a mountain. Sumichrast made the boy walk in front as leader—a
reward for the sharpness of his eyes. Proud of this duty, our little guide led
us to an opening edged with a rampart of wood at a short distance off.
"Halt!" cried I.
The butts of the guns were dropped upon the ground at this order; our
hut was soon constructed, and l'Encuerado immediately afterwards busied
himself preparing our meal.
Sumichrast, who, from the state of his hand, was condemned to idleness,
remained with the Indian, while I proceeded, in company with Gringalet
and Lucien, to reconnoitre the vicinity of our bivouac. Almost immediately,
a yoloxochitl, a species of magnolia, met our eyes. I called l'Encuerado,
who climbed the tree in order to throw us down some of its beautiful sweet-
smelling flowers; they are externally of a pinkish-white color, yellow on the

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inside, and the petals, before
they are full-blown, assume
the form of a cross, and
afterwards that of a splendid
star. The Indian did not fail to
remind us that an infusion of
the glittering leaves of the
yoloxochitl is a remedy
against diarrhœa, and that its
flowers, as their shape
indicates, cure palpitation of
the heart. A little farther on we
recognized a nutmeg-tree, a
shrub about ten feet in height,
and covered with half-formed
fruit. The nutmeg is not
cultivated in Mexico, and the
tree that produces it is rather
rare. The Indians, however,
use an enormous quantity of
the Molucca nutmegs, either
as a remedy or as a condiment
"A tiger-cat bounded forward and —nutmegs, camphor, and
seized the pheasant." asafœtida being the principal
Indian remedies. I next
pointed out to my young companion a plant named the blue herb, the leaves
of which stain the water in which they are soaked with a lovely azure tinge.
In Mexico a variety of this vegetable is cultivated, in order to extract from it
the coloring matter commonly known under the name of indigo.
"But how do they manage," asked Lucien, "to obtain from a plant those
dark-blue stones that I have seen sold in the market?"
"About the month of March," I answered, "are gathered the fresh leaves
of the indigo-plant, which is one of the leguminous family, and pound them
in mortars made out of the trunks of trees. The sap which results from these
leaves, when subjected to a heavy pressure, is of a greenish tinge, and
sometimes even colorless; it does not become blue until after fermentation

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in the open air. The Indians then boil it in an immense copper, and, the
water evaporating, the indigo is left in the form of a soft and gelatinous
paste, which is subsequently dried in the sun."
On approaching the foot of the mountain, I found that it would be
impossible for us to climb it the next day, the slope being too steep. I sat
down on the trunk of a fallen tree, when I detected a very decided smell of
roses. Under the bark of a log esquina Lucien had discovered five or six
beautiful insects of an azure-blue color, with red feet; these insects are very
common in the sandy soils of Tehuacan, and are used by the ladies of that
district to perfume their linen. Delighted at this discovery, Lucien continued
his search, hoping to find some more specimens which he intended to take
to his mother. He was kneeling down and working energetically, when he
pointed out to me an enormous caterpillar.
It was of an emerald-green color, and had on its back a row of little
projections like small trees, symmetrically arranged. These were of a
brilliant red, terminating in shoots the same color as the animal's body.
"What a curious creature!" cried Lucien; "it looks as if it carried a
garden on its back; what use are all these bushes?"
"It is not known, and it is a curious fact that the butterfly which springs
from the caterpillar shows no trace of all this strangely-arranged hair."
"Will a butterfly come from this caterpillar?"
"Yes, certainly; all butterflies lay eggs, from which proceed caterpillars,
which generally destroy the plants on which they are hatched. When arrived
at maturity, the caterpillar spins a cocoon of silk, more or less fine, in the
centre of which it incloses itself. It is then called a chrysalis. In this cocoon
the butterfly is formed, either white or black, yellow or green, and there it
remains inactive and imprisoned, like a baby in swadding-clothes. In spring
it perforates its silken prison, and soon makes its escape a splendid
butterfly, subsisting upon the juices of the flowers obtained through its
proboscis. Surely you were not ignorant of all these transformations?"
"I thought that they only took place in silk-worms."

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"Well, now you are undeceived; all caterpillars and all butterflies are
subject to them; but there are few caterpillars which spin so valuable a
cocoon as the silk-worm. Moreover, some bury themselves in the earth;
while others hide in the middle of a leaf, the edges of which they curl round
so as to form a kind of bag, in which they are protected from the beaks of
birds; again, some hollow out a shelter in the trunk of a tree, and line their
abode with silk more or less fine. Thus, in every case, the chrysalis waits
patiently for the time when it will change from a worm into a butterfly,
painted with the richest colors."
The subject was really an inexhaustible one, so I deferred the rest of my
explanations to another day. Besides, l'Encuerado was loudly calling for us.

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Page 153

CHAPTER XIII.
THE SENSITIVE-PLANT.—GRINGALET AND THE PORCUPINE.—THE
MEXICAN CHAMELEON.—THE KITE AND THE FALCON.—AN
AMPHISBÆNA SNAKE.—A COUNCIL OF TURKEYS.

Lucien, seated on the grass, amused himself with touching all the plants
within reach of his travelling staff; suddenly he noticed that the branches
and leaves of a small shrub shut up when he brushed them with his stick,
just like the ribs of a parasol, moved by some invisible spring—it was a
sensitive-plant.
He called to us to ask for an explanation of this phenomenon, so we
assembled round the shrub, which was about three feet high; its leaves
finely cut and of a delicate green color, with pink flowers in tufts half
hidden among them. The leaves, touched by the stick, shrank up close to the
parent stem, and the oval, slender, and delicate ones, rising on their stalks,
pressed against one another. In about five minutes the leaves which had
been rubbed again spread out, as if they had recovered from their fright.
It was, however, only for a short time; for Lucien amused himself by
rubbing his fingers over the leaves, which immediately doubled up, as if
offended by the slight touch. The Indians call it the "Bashful Plant." A blow
struck on the principal stem is sufficient to make all the branches close, as if
animated by a kind of modest feeling. When the sun sets, the sensitive plant
spontaneously shuts up its delicate foliage, which does not open again
freely until the return of day.
Lucien's first idea, at waking, was to run towards the shrubs which
interested him the day before. They were covered with dew, and looked as
if they were asleep, until the first rays of the sun fell upon them. Before we
started, the young naturalist again tested the delicate sensibility of the plant,
which Sumichrast told him was allied to the tree which produces gum-
arabic.
L'Encuerado's cheek was less swollen, and Sumichrast could use his
hand, although it still pained him. The mountain in front of us, which was

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too steep to climb, caused us some perplexity.
"Let us slant off to the left, over this moist ground, carpeted with turf,"
said Sumichrast, plunging into the thicket.
About midday, just as l'Encuerado was declaring, in a grumbling tone,
that we ought to have inclined towards the right, our little troop entered the
wood. An undulating slope led us to a summit not more than twenty yards
across, and in less than half an hour the opposite descent brought us into a
delicious glen.
"Hallo! Master 'Sunbeam,'" cried Sumichrast, while helping me to
construct our hut, "don't you recollect you are the one to provide the fire?"
"All right," replied Lucien, who seemed to be lost in the contemplation
of a dead branch; "I want to get hold of an insect which appears to be
making, like us, natural-history collections, for I have just found in its nest
a quantity of spiders, flies, and small worms."
"It is one of the Hymenoptera," said Sumichrast; "it collects all round its
eggs the food the young will eat when they are hatched; the insect is
therefore full of forethought—a good example for us to imitate."
When the fire was ready, we started off in light marching order to
explore the vicinity of our bivouac. Our position was commanded by
mountains on all sides, and the glen was scarcely a quarter of a league in
length. The pleasant coolness, and the presence of numerous birds, led us to
hope that we should meet with a spring, which was all that was needed to
convert this remote corner of the world into a perfect paradise. But our
exploring only led to the discovery of a greenish pool, sheltered by an
enormous rock, and which the dry season would soon evaporate.
Gringalet's barking attracted our attention towards the forest, and I
perceived a porcupine on a tree. The animal, sitting up on its hind feet, was
looking at us with astonishment. Leaving it undisturbed, it appeared to
forget us, and tearing off with its claws a piece of bark, it licked the inner
side, which was doubtless covered with insects. Having repeated this
operation several times, the animal advanced to the end of a branch, and
seizing it with its prehensile tail, let itself down to the ground. Its large
black eyes, of unusual mildness, were widely opened, and its nose slit like

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hares and rabbits. It was just about to stretch itself, when, to our great
regret, l'Encuerado shot it; the poor beast fell over on the ground, and
placing its hand-shaped paws on the wound, rolled itself up into a ball at the
foot of a tree. Gringalet darted forward to seize it, and then immediately
retreated, howling with pain; he came back to us with his muzzle bristling
with the porcupine's quills, which were about two inches long and finely
pointed. The unfortunate dog rubbed his nose against the ground in order to
get relief, but, of course, this only increased his pain. Lucien ran to help
him, and at last succeeded in extracting them.
"Have you lost your senses?" asked l'Encuerado of the dog, while
washing the poor beast's nose and mouth. "The idea of trying to bite a
huitzttacuatzin! Upon my word, I thought you knew better than that. No
doubt it's a good thing to be brave, but you must manage to be less stupid
when you are in the forests of the Terre-Chaude, unless you want to be
devoured by a tiger, or scratched to pieces by an ant-eater."
After listening to l'Encuerado's speech, Lucien scolded him for firing at
the poor animal, and then joined us, close to the porcupine, which was
dying. It was about the size of a fox, and its fore paws were furnished with
four toes armed with claws. This animal, which is slow of pace and entirely
inoffensive, spreads round it a sickening musky odor. It lives on fruit, roots,
and insects, and, aided by its prehensile tail, climbs trees with great skill. It
but rarely tries to make its escape at the approach of the hunter, who,
moreover, utterly despises such worthless game.
L'Encuerado reminded us that we had now been travelling twelve days,
and that it was the first Sunday in May. We should have devoted it to rest if
our morning's hunting had been successful; but, unless we contented
ourselves with a dinner composed only of rice, we were obliged to shoot
some eatable bird or animal to fill our stew-pot. We heard some doves
cooing, and l'Encuerado went off alone in the direction of the sound, for
these birds are difficult of approach. Gringalet, notwithstanding our calls,
ran after the Indian.
Lucien climbed the rock which hung over the pool, and made signs for
me to come to him, saying, in a low voice,
"Papa, come and look at this strange animal."

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I also climbed up, and found lying on the top a Mexican chameleon, a
kind of round-shaped lizard, with a brown skin dotted over with yellow
spots, which seemed to change color in the light. Lucien tried to catch the
graceful reptile, which, however, glided between his fingers and
disappeared behind the rock.
The Mexican chameleon lives only in the woods and among the rocks. It
chiefly delights in the oak forests, where the dark color of its body blends
with the hue of the dry leaves, and enables it to lie successfully in ambush
for the insects on which it feeds. Sumichrast, who had succeeded in taming
a chameleon, told us that the reptile's throat, which was white during the
daytime, assumed during the night a dark hue; also, that it liked to be
caressed, and became familiar enough to take from his hand the flies which
were offered it. The Indians, who hold the animal in great dread when alive,
are in the habit of wearing its dried body as an amulet against the "evil eye."
From our lofty observatory we were looking at the beautiful birds which
occasionally flew across the plain, when Sumichrast suddenly fired. He had
caught sight of a fine magpie, of an ashy-blue color, with its head crowned
by a tuft; its throat appeared as if it were bound round with black velvet, a
peculiarity which has obtained for it from the Indians the name of the
"commander bird." Lucien came down from the rock to go and pick up the
game, when an enormous kite darted on the magpie, seized it in its sharp
claws, and immediately took flight. Sumichrast seized his gun to punish the
impudent poacher, but a falcon, about the size of a man's fist, made its
appearance, and describing two or three rapid circles, swooped down on the
kite. The latter avoided the shock and continued to rise in the air, while its
antagonist came almost to the ground, uttering a shriek of rage. Again
ascending, with extreme rapidity, by an oblique flight, it a second time
overtopped its antagonist, and darted upon it like a flash of lightning. Their
wings beat together, and a few feathers came fluttering to the ground. The
prey fell from the bird's grasp, followed in its fall by the falcon. The kite,
conquered by an enemy about one-fifth of its own size, flew round and
round in the air and then disappeared. The conqueror standing about thirty
yards from us, eyes glittering and foot firmly planted on its prey,
magnificent in anger and daring, Sumichrast abandoned the game to it as a
recompense for its courage. The bird, not at all satisfied at being so close to
us, buried in the body of its victim its claws—so enormous in comparison

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to its own size—shook its
wings and rose, at first with
difficulty, when, its flight
becoming more easy as it
ascended higher, it carried off
its quarry behind the trees.
Lucien, who from the
ground beneath had followed
all the changes and chances of
this combat, soon joined us.
"How was it that that great
bird allowed itself to be
conquered by such a small
adversary?" he asked of
Sumichrast.
"Because it was a coward."
"But both have the same
plumage, and almost the same
shape; I took the small bird to
be the young of the other."
"The kite avoided the shock, and
continued to rise in the air." "The last is a falcon, and
the other is a kite. They
belong, in fact, to the same family; but the falcon is noble and courageous,
while the kite is perhaps the most cowardly of all birds of prey. Falcons
were once used for hunting; for, as you have just seen, they have no fear of
attacking adversaries much larger than themselves. Added to this, they are
easily tamed."
"But eagles are much stronger than falcons?"
"Eagles are birds of prey which do not at all merit the reputation which
poets have endeavored to make for them; although they may be stronger,
they exhibit much less bravery than falcons, and only attack animals of
small size."

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"Yet, surely the eagle is the king of birds; is it not able to look straight at
the sun?"
"Yes, thanks to a membrane that shuts down over the pupil of its eye.
Among all nations the eagle is the symbol of strength and courage: but still
the falcon possesses the latter of these qualities in a much higher degree; it
is the falcon which is the real king of birds among ornithologists. The
Mexicans, as you know, depict upon their banners an eagle sitting upon a
cactus and tearing a serpent."
"Is this intended as an emblem of strength and courage?"
"No, it has another origin. When the Aztecs, who were thought to be
natives of Northern America, arrived in Mexico (which then bore the name
of Anahuac), they wandered about a long time before they settled. One day,
near a lake, they found a cactus growing on a stone, and on the cactus an
eagle was sitting. Guided by an oracle, a city was built, which was called
Tenochtitlan, and subsequently Mexico."
My historical lecture was interrupted by a distant shot. We had heard
nothing of the doves for a long time, and we were expecting to see our
companion reappear; but he must have made an enormous curve in pursuing
them, to judge from the direction from which the report of his gun
proceeded. Fortunately, from the position of the spot, there was not much
likelihood of his missing his way: although we had full confidence in his
instinct, we feared to what extent his ardor might carry him.
We now kept on the look-out, hoping that chance would throw us in
contact with some game. All at once there was a movement to our right in
the high grass, and its waving about pointed out the presence of some
reptile. In a minute or two we saw a serpent making its way towards the
pool; it was the species which is called by the Indians, as formerly by the
Greeks, the double-headed serpent. The amphisbæna was about a foot and a
half long, and its tail was swollen at the end, which gave it a very curious
appearance. Its skin, covered with large scales, had a bluish metallic glitter.
It crawled slowly, and stopped every instant as if to bore into the ground,
but in reality to pick up insects or ants. This singular snake quite enchanted
Lucien, and Sumichrast told him to fire his gun at it, so as to be able to
study it more closely. He had no need to repeat his instructions; the young

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sportsman, who had begun to handle his weapon very skillfully, at once
placed it to his shoulder; the shot was fired, and the amphisbæna, tumbling
over, disappeared in the grass. The reptile had been hit, and we all of us
clambered down the rock as fast as we could, in the hopes of finding it
dead. We sought for it in vain; the snake had made its escape into some
hole, from which it would be in vain to try to dislodge it.
Gringalet now showed himself, soon followed by l'Encuerado. When he
caught sight of us, the Indian raised a loud "Hiou! hiou!" Waving his hat in
the air, he threw upon the ground some dark object, which fell heavily on
the turf, and then he began dancing. We roared with laughter at his
grotesque steps, and Lucien ran towards the Mistec, who, after his dance,
was acting the acrobat on the turf.
"A turkey!" he cried; and an enormous bird, with bronzed plumage, was
passed from hand to hand.
"Ah! Chanito," cried the Indian, "if you had gone with me, you would
have seen a whole flock of them! I had chased those miserable doves till I
was tired, without even catching a glimpse of them, and was resting at the
foot of a tree, when Gringalet pricked up his ears, and running up the
opposite slope of the mountain, barked as loudly as if he saw another
porcupine. I also made my way there, and heard 'gobbles' resounding in
every direction; Master Gringalet had fallen in with a council of turkeys."
"A council of turkeys?" repeated Lucien.
"Yes, Chanito, turkeys hold councils. They generally travel in flocks and
on foot, although they know perfectly well how to fly when they want to
cross a stream or to make their escape; and when one of them wants to
communicate his opinion to another, he raises a cry, and his companions
form a circle round him."
"And what takes place then?"
"The preacher," continued l'Encuerado, without the least idea of
irreverence, "lowers his neck and then lifts it up again, raises up the hair-
like feathers on his crop, and spreads out his tail like a fan. He then
addresses the assembled birds, who strut about with their wings half
opened, and answer him with approving gobbles."

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The Indian, carried away by his narrative, added gestures to words,
strutted about, rounded his arms and lowered his chin upon his breast, in
order to imitate the ways of the birds which he was describing.
"But what do they say?" asked Lucien, archly.
"That depends on circumstances," he replied, scratching his forehead.
"The flock just now surprised must have cried out: 'What is this
animal?'—'A dog,' would be the answer of the most knowing among them.
'Fly, my friends, fly!' he would cry; 'dogs are always accompanied by men,
and men have guns.' 'A gun! what's that?'—'A machine that goes boum and
kills turkeys.' Then I make my appearance; they bustle about, fly away, and
spread in every direction; but my gun had time to go boum and to kill this
beautiful bird."
I need scarcely say what mirth was excited by this account. While
returning to our bivouac, Sumichrast told Lucien that the turkey is a native
of America, and that it was introduced by the Jesuits into Europe, where it
flourished well. In a domestic state, the color of its plumage altered to a
reddish, a white, and a gray and black color. But it never lost the habit of
walking about in flocks, and of laying its eggs in thickets, in a shapeless
nest, which the young chicks leave the second day after they are hatched.
Lastly, the Aztec name of the turkey—totole—is applied by the Indians to
simpletons and cowards.
Lucien then told l'Encuerado about the magpie and the amphisbæna.
"You killed a maquiz coatl—a two-headed serpent!" cried the Indian.
"I only wounded it, for it got away; but it had only one head."
"Then you didn't examine it thoroughly; for it would not turn round
when it crawled away."
"I did not notice. I saw it leap up in the air, and that was all."
"Have you searched well under the stones? Let us go back; the skin of
the maquiz coatl enables the blind to see. Why did you let it escape?"
"Oh! we shall be sure to find another."

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"You can't find them whenever you like; they are very rare," replied the
Indian, shaking his head.
While the turkey was roasting under our superintendence, l'Encuerado
and Lucien went off to try and find the amphisbæna's hole.

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"It looked like an immense pedestal,
surmounted by two bronze statues."

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CHAPTER XIV.
THE METEOR.—GOD ALMIGHTY'S LANTERNS.—THE SKUNK.—THE
JALAP-PLANT.—AN AERIAL JOURNEY.—THE ORCHIDS.—BIVOUAC
IN THE MOUTH OF A CAVE.—GRINGALET AND THE BEETLES.—A
WHITE ANTS' NEST.

The sun left us soon afterwards, and we sat talking by the fire. At last
l'Encuerado took away Lucien towards the rocks, and set up one of those
interminable chants with which his memory was stored. Our fire lighted up
with its red gleam the stone on which they were sitting, making it look like
an immense pedestal, surmounted by two bronze statues. Any traveller
suddenly entering the valley would have recoiled in terror before this
fantastic apparition; and if any wild beast had been prowling near us, our
gigantic shadows would certainly have made it keep its distance.
We were just thinking of calling Lucien to come and lie down under the
hut, when l'Encuerado shouted out to us. Towards the east, a large luminous
disk was shining brilliantly above the mountain peaks. This luminous globe,
lengthening out into the shape of an ellipse, appeared to move along.
In fact, it was descending slowly over the wooded crests. Lucien and
l'Encuerado kept plying us with questions in reference to it, which we were
unable to answer.

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"What is it?" cried Sumichrast.
"A meteor!" I exclaimed, struck with a sudden idea.
"If I had my gun ready, I would fire at it, at all events."
"You had better not," said I; "the globe may contain electric fluid, and
we might draw it down upon us."
Soon afterwards the meteor passed by us. We threw ourselves down flat
on the earth, dreading this unknown visitor. When I ventured to rise, it was
some distance away, and yet appeared to be motionless. Rays incessantly
quivering sprang from the centre of it; in the middle the light was white, but
at the edges it assumed first a yellowish, then a red, and lastly a bluish hue.
We were suddenly almost blinded by a flash of intense brilliancy; a
formidable explosion, repeated by the echoes, burst upon our ears, and all
became silence and obscurity.
While we were returning to our bivouac, Lucien and l'Encuerado pressed
us with questions.
"What are meteors?" asked Lucien, eagerly.
"Some scientific men," replied Sumichrast, "look upon them as
fragments of planets wandering in space. Getting entangled in our planetary

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system, they yield to the attraction of our globe, and fall on to its surface in
obedience to the law of gravitation."
"But what are they composed of?"
"Generally speaking, of sulphur, chromium, and earth. The phenomenon
of 'shooting stars' is connected with that of meteors, and any substance
falling on the surface of the earth receives the name of aerolite."
"Do you wish to persuade me that stones rain down from the sky?" cried
l'Encuerado.
"Yes, certainly; and if I am not mistaken, it was in your country that the
largest known aerolite was found, for it weighed no less than fifty hundred-
weights. To-morrow morning we will search for the one we have seen,
which must have dropped at the end of the valley."
"Are these stones luminous?" rejoined the Indian.
"No; but they take fire, owing to their rapid flight."
"And whence did the meteor come which passed so close to us?"
"Either from the moon or the stars, or perhaps from the sun."
L'Encuerado half-closed his eyes, and burst out laughing at what he
considered a joke. He laughed, indeed, so heartily, that we could not help
joining him.
"Now what do you imagine the sun and moon really are?" asked Lucien.
"God's lanterns," replied the Indian, gravely.
Our young companion was well accustomed to the artless ignorance of
his friend, but still he always endeavored to contend against it; so he set to
work to teach him something about our planetary system. The dimensions
which he attributed to the heavenly bodies seemed to afford great
amusement to the Indian. At last, just when the young orator fancied he had
convinced his disciple, the latter embraced him, exclaiming:
"What an amusing tale! Oh! how pleased I should be to be able to read
such pretty stories as that in a book!"

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"Tales, indeed!" cried Lucien, quite indignant.
"Well, the very idea of saying that the earth is a ball, which moves round
and round, and that there are stars which are bigger! Many a night have I
spent looking at the stars, and I know they are nothing but lanterns, and
that's enough!"
"But if you have observed them so carefully," interposed Sumichrast,
"you must have observed that they are constantly shifting their places."
"Yes, but that is because the angels don't always light up the same stars,
and God has plenty of them in every direction—"
I now interrupted the conversation.
"Come, let us all go to rest!" I cried, cutting short a discussion which I
knew, by experience, must end in Lucien and Sumichrast getting the worst
of it.
The next morning there was nothing better to do than to go with my
companions to look after the aerolite. The ball of fire appeared to have
passed just over us, and I fancied that we should be certain to recover some
part of it. After an hour of useless wandering, we were compelled to admit
that our eyes must have been much mistaken as to distances. L'Encuerado
could not help smiling incredulously on hearing the conjectures which I and
Sumichrast made; but he was generous enough not to take advantage of the
superior astronomical knowledge which he assumed he possessed.
On setting out I again crossed the valley, and then climbing the
mountain, I led my companions up to a plateau.
As far as was possible I followed the route I thought the meteor had
taken. L'Encuerado was just making his way into the forest when
Sumichrast noticed a broken tree, a little to the right. I leaped up on the
slope, and soon remarked that the ground, for a space of at least twenty
yards, was strewn with black or green stones, which had been in a fused
state, and evidently bore the appearance of iron scoriæ. There could be no
doubt about it; the tree which had been struck had caused the explosion of
the meteor, and had broken under the shock.

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"These, therefore, are the remains of some of your sky-lanterns," said
Lucien to l'Encuerado, who had just picked up some large stones, shining
like metal.
The Indian shook his head without answering. The fallen tree, the burned
and blackened trunk, the withered and even scorched grass, these strange-
looking stones—every thing visibly combined to upset his theory. Each of
us added to his load one of the aerolites; then, again returning to the
plateau, we plunged into the forest.
One shot that Sumichrast made rendered him happy for the whole day.
He had knocked down a green-colored crossbill, of a species still unknown
in Europe.
"What a queer bird!" cried Lucien. "How did it manage to eat with its
mouth all awry?"
"Its mouth," replied Sumichrast, smiling, "is well adapted to its food.
This bird—which we have here met with quite by chance, as it usually
frequents mountain-tops—feeds on roots, buds, and pine-cones. Owing to
its two mandibles being so strongly made and so curiously arranged it can
cut through, as if with a pair of scissors, branches which a bird with a
pointed beak could never penetrate."
"God is mindful of all His creatures," muttered l'Encuerado, who was
helping to skin the bird. "I had always fancied that these poor creatures
were deformed."
Towards midday the chances of our path brought us to the bottom of a
narrow valley in the midst of a clump of shrubs; this seemed a fit spot for
our bivouac. In the twinkling of an eye, the ground was cleared of brush-
wood and our hut constructed. We had scarcely sat down to take breath
when a slight rustling in the foliage attracted our attention, and an animal
with a bushy tail sprang down from a tree. Gringalet darted at it, but an
abominable smell, which almost suffocated us, at once made him retreat. A
skunk, which in shape and color somewhat resembles a squirrel, had thus
perfectly poisoned our bivouac.
Nothing was left for us but to decamp as quickly as possible, for the
stench rendered the place uninhabitable for several days. L'Encuerado could

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not find enough bad names
for abusing the animal,
which, however, had only
availed itself of the means of
defense with which nature
has endowed it. Each of us
now resumed his burden,
sadly enough, I must confess,
and not without throwing a
disappointed glance at our
hut. Sumichrast led the way,
and did not stop till we found
ourselves perfectly exhausted
at the entrance to a deep and
narrow gorge. We still felt
sickened by the horrible
stench produced by the
skunk, and, as we did not
wish to expose ourselves
again to a similar misfortune,
we took care, before
constructing a fresh hut, to
search round the shrubs and "Above us, the trees crossed their
bushes. A few birds shot on branches."
the road rendered it
unnecessary for us to hunt any more, as we had an abundance of food, so
we all set to work to repair our wardrobes. Our shoes first required our
attention, and Sumichrast constituted himself head-cobbler. L'Encuerado's
sandals gave him a great advantage over us; for all he required was a sole
and a leathern strap, and then he was well shod. But, unfortunately, the
delicacy of our skin several times afforded Sumichrast cause for regret that
he had not been born an Indian.
L'Encuerado, full of ingenuity, managed to fix some pieces of fox-skin
on some old soles, and made for Lucien a pair of buskins as strong as they
were inelegant. He promised to make us some like them, and Sumichrast,

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who succeeded only tolerably well in his cobbling, nominated the Indian
"sandal-maker in ordinary and extraordinary to our majesties."
The next morning at daybreak we entered a narrow gorge in which it was
impossible for us to walk abreast. The whole morning was spent in
travelling along between two stone ramparts, hung with mosses, ferns, and
orchids. The moist soil rendered the temperature round us sufficiently cool
and agreeable; but the pass was so filled up with the trunks of fallen trees as
to render our progress very laborious.
The gorge extended to such a length that I began to be anxious about it,
and to fear lest we had entered into a cul-de-sac. The perpendicular walls
rendered any deviation in our path impossible; above us, the trees crossed
their branches and almost hid the sky. No bird enlivened the solitude with
its song, and ferns were so abundant that it seemed as if we had lighted
upon some corner of the primitive world; as if to render the resemblance
more complete, the reptiles scarcely fled at our approach, and obliged us to
use the greatest care.
Cutlass in hand, Lucien climbed nimbly over the fallen trees which
barred our progress. Ere long our feet sank into a quantity of liquid mud,
and I discovered a slender streamlet of limpid water oozing out between
two rocks. The pass between the rocks became narrower and narrower, and
if a wild beast had then met us we should have had to dispute the path with
it. As a rencontre of this kind was by no means impossible, Lucien, to his
displeasure, was ordered to follow in rear.
The way now widened a little, and became more clear of impediments,
and our little column advanced with rather more rapidity. We walked along
silently between these stern and imposing granite walls, with the constant
hope of seeing them separate and open out into a valley. Every few yards
some fresh turn frustrated our expectations; and if ever any pass deserved
the name of the "Devil's Gorge," it was the interminable fissure through
which we had been compelled to walk for so long a distance. At various
heights there were half-suspended rocks which threatened to fall upon us;
for several previously had fallen and now blocked up the path. At last a
sudden turn revealed a wide opening; but our joy was of short duration;
nothing but a perpendicular precipice lay in front of us.

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We looked at one another in consternation; we were prisoners! On our
right and left were perpendicular walls more than a hundred feet high, and
impossible to climb; before us there was a gulf with a vertical precipice.
What was to be done? Sumichrast lighted the pipe of council, while
l'Encuerado clung on to the rocks and tried to measure the abyss with his
eye.
We were seated near a plant with slender branches and heart-shaped
leaves tinged with red, concealing here and there a flower of a violet blue. I
recognized in it the shrub which produces jalap, and is called by the Indians
tolonpatl. I called Lucien's attention to it, who soon dug up four or five tap-
roots of a pear-like shape. Jalap, which has taken its name from the town of
Jalapa, whence it was once forwarded to Vera Cruz, grows naturally on all
the mountains of the Terre-Tempérée. Unfortunately, the Indians destroy the
plant by taking away all its turbercles, and the time is not far distant when
this drug, so much used in Europe, will, like quinine, become very scarce.
I drew close to the precipice, and perceived l'Encuerado more than
twenty feet below me crawling, with all the skill of a monkey, over an
almost smooth surface. I ordered him to come up to us again; but he did not
seem able to get back, and remained motionless in his dangerous position.
Sumichrast hastened to bring me a lasso, which I let down to our daring
companion. But instead of ascending, he slid down four or five feet, and
placing himself astride on the projecting trunk of a tree, called out to us to
let go the lasso; this he tied round a stout branch, and disappeared down the
abyss.
It was not long before we saw him again install himself on the tree round
which he had rolled the leather strap, when he called out to us that we might
descend without any great danger.
"How shall we fasten it?" asked Lucien; "there are no thick branches just
at the edge."
"The strap is a long one, and there is a bush not far off with pretty strong
branches."
"But then we shall lose the lasso, for none will be left to loosen it."
"Upon my word!" cried Sumichrast, "Master Sunbeam is right."

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Then each of us tried to solve the problem, proposing expedients more
or less impracticable.
"I've found it out," cried I at last, with quite as much satisfaction as
Archimedes when he leaped out of his bath.
Seizing my machete, I cut two stakes of a good thickness, which I drove
into the ground close to one another, about three yards from the precipice.
While Sumichrast with a club was consolidating my work, I cut a stick
about a foot long, to the middle of which I firmly tied the lasso. I then
placed it crosswise behind the stakes. I considered that when we had let
ourselves down to the spot occupied by l'Encuerado, a sharp undulatory
shake given to the lasso would be sufficient to disengage the stick. When
our preparations were finished, we let down the basket to the man who
carried it. Then Sumichrast, who was the heaviest among us, slid down the
cord to the tree which grew in so convenient a position. The stakes scarcely
yielded at all to his weight. Continuing his descent, my friend soon joined
the Indian.
Lucien's impatience was extreme; he was enchanted with this aerial
route.
"Now it's your turn," said I, as soon as I had drawn up the lasso.
"Are you going to tie me?" he asked in a disappointed tone.
"How did you suppose you would descend?"
"By holding on to the lasso, like l'Encuerado and M. Sumichrast,"
answered the boy.
"The grasp of your hands is not firm enough; you must not think of it; I
have no wish to risk your neck."
"Oh! dear father! do let me try."
"Certainly not; for if your trial failed, you would not be in a position to
try again."
Not without some slight vexation Lucien was tied to the lasso, while
Gringalet, astonished, barked round us.

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"Patience! patience!" I
exclaimed to the dog; "it will
be your turn next, and then,
perhaps, you will not seem so
pleased."
I let the lasso slowly
down, and the boy was soon
safely lodged among the
branches of the tree. With
care equal to mine, and with
still firmer knots, l'Encuerado
tied the cord afresh. Then,
leaning over the precipice, I
heard Sumichrast's voice
ordering the Indian to let the
improvised cable slowly
down. Seeing that the port
was safely reached, and
relieved of a great care, I
began tying Gringalet, who
hadn't left off howling since
his young master
"Then Sumichrast . . . slid down the disappeared. In spite of his
cord to the tree." terror, I launched the dog into
the air; he struggled, howled,
and nearly evaded l'Encuerado's friendly grasp; the latter, as he again let
him down, tried to explain the inutility of his struggles, and the danger of
breaking loose. At length, having for the last time examined the stakes and
the cross-piece, I also descended. I then shook the lasso, and at once
succeeded in disengaging it.
I saw below me Sumichrast and Lucien, seated on a narrow projection,
which led by a rocky declivity down to the foot of the mountain. Soon I
joined them, followed by the Indian. We had fixed the cross-bar between
two stout branches, and for a long time, without loosening the stick, I shook
the cord. At last, tired out, and about to leave it, the piece of wood suddenly
gave way, and nearly fell on me.

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Walking now became very laborious, and it was occasionally difficult to
preserve our balance in passing over rocks, sometimes smooth, at others
very uneven. Our path lay between perfect hedges of orchids, of which
beautiful race Mexico possesses hundreds of species; we stopped at nearly
every step to admire some of these curiously shaped, brilliantly colored, but
often scentless flowers. L'Encuerado pointed out many plants of the lynx
flower, called by the Indians the serpent-flower, the fine petals of which are
dotted with yellow spots, and marbled with pink, violet, and white. Farther
on, another flower, the tiger-lily, reminded us, by its color, of the animal
from which it takes its name. Plucking as he went along, Lucien became
possessor of such a bouquet as the richest gardens could not furnish. Of
course he wanted to know the names of all, but he was obliged to be content
with learning that, with the exception of the vanilla-plant, the brilliant
legion of orchids furnishes nothing utilized in the arts or industrial skill.
We had just reached the foot of the mountain, when an immense mass of
stones obliged us to turn aside. I took the lead, and an involuntary slip
brought me unexpectedly to a cave. My companions came running up in
answer to my call; I took three or four steps into the entrance, and
immediately made up my mind, from its thorough adaptability, to shelter
there for the night. While I, helped by Lucien, was collecting some wood,
l'Encuerado cleared the ground, and Sumichrast cut down two or three
shrubs which impeded the view. I then ordered the Indian to light the fire,
which would assist us to reconnoitre the entrance to the cavern; which
being done, it was necessary for us to go in search of game for our dinner.
Looking from the plain, I could well judge of the feat we had
accomplished in our descent. Up to the level of the cave there were shrubs
and brush-wood. Higher up, orchids, with their bright flowers and opal-
green leaves; higher still rose a perpendicular and almost smooth rampart,
utterly impassable except through the fissure which had afforded us egress.
Sumichrast guided us through the thicket, where the frangipanni-plants,
covered with their sweet-scented flowers, predominated, announcing our
approach into the Terre-Chaude, and of a completely altered nature of
vegetation. Soon an immense mahogany-tree (Swietenia mahogoni), with
its thick boughs and dark-green foliage, rose before us; a little farther on a
fallen ceiba had crushed four or five shrubs. The ceiba (Eriodendron
anfractuosum) called Pochotl by the Indians, is one of the largest trees

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known; its fruit, of a pod-like
shape, contains a silky down,
which possesses a singular
property of swelling in the
sun. I was pointing out this
peculiarity to Lucien, when a
formidable buzzing noise met
our ears; a whole flock of
Hercules beetles had flown
out of a bush and struck
heavily against the branches
of a tree. Lucien caught one
and wanted to hold it down on
the ground, but the insect got
away from him and continued
its flight.
"Oh!" cried the boy, "this
beetle is stronger than I am!"
"It is not for nothing that it
bears the name of Hercules,"
replied Sumichrast, smiling;
"as you have just found out, it "I then ordered the Indian to light the
is as remarkable for its fire."
strength as for its size. It is a
native of Brazil, and is only occasionally found in Mexico."
"Do they always travel in flocks like this?"
"No; the occurrence is so rare that I shall make a note of it."
"I smell something like snuff," said Lucien, sneezing.
"It proceeds from the beetles," said Sumichrast.
And so powerful was this odor, that it caused Lucien several times to
sneeze. This was another fact to note down.

Page 175

"Papa, do look at them hanging one on to another, and forming
something like an immense bunch of grapes. Do they bite with those
powerful jaws?"
"They are horns which you mistake for jaws; but their arrangement quite
excuses your error. Look; the upper part of their body is black and polished,
and their wing-sheaths are a greenish gray, irregularly dotted with dark
spots."
"Here is one which has no horns."
"It is a female."
We were examining with some curiosity all the ways of the insect
colony, which was scarcely disturbed by our presence, when Gringalet, who
had also taken to sneezing, suddenly set up the most plaintive howl.
L'Encuerado had placed on the dog's back three or four beetles, which had
buried their claws in his skin. The Indian, surprised at the result of his
experiment, hurried to relieve the poor animal, which was rolling on the
ground; at last he succeeded in getting hold of him, but he had much
difficulty in freeing him from his vindictive assailants. One beetle, indeed,
seized hold of the hand of the mischievous wag, whose grimaces much
amused us; as fast as he disengaged one of the insect's claws, the creature—
which possessed six—soon found a chance to cling on with others.
Annoyed at having to strive with such a paltry enemy, l'Encuerado at last
tore the beetle roughly away, but the blood flowed from his bronze-colored
skin. Always too ready for revenge, he threatened to exterminate the whole
colony of beetles; but, smiling at his ill-humor, I forbade his perpetrating
such a useless massacre.
"They are nice gentlemen!" he cried; "because they had just heard
themselves called Hercules, they think they are strong enough to bite the
hands of every person they meet! Stupid fools, with noses longer than their
bodies, who fly away when Gringalet barks at them! Bite them! Bite them!"
cried he, setting the dog at them.
But the latter, with his ears drooped and his tail between his legs, refused
to obey, and, from this day forward I remarked that the least buzzing from
any insect was sufficient to render him uneasy.

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Sumichrast, who had caught one of these large beetles, placed a stone
upon it which any one would have thought sufficient to have crushed it; but,
to Lucien's great admiration, the six-legged Hercules walked off with its
burden, almost without an effort. Ere long the beetles one by one resumed
their flight, and came buzzing around us, so it became really necessary to
beat a retreat, lest we should have our eyes put out by their immense horns;
Gringalet followed our example. Lucien sat down so as to laugh at his ease,
for l'Encuerado, instead of running away, drew his bill-hook, assuming a
threatening attitude to his enemies, and, like one of Homer's heroes, defied
them to come near him. At last the whole band of beetles united and
suspended themselves to the branch of a ceiba, a tree for which the
Hercules beetle shows a marked preference.
But we had in the mean time quite forgotten our dinners, so we set off
hunting in various directions. I skirted the edge of the forests, accompanied
by Sumichrast and Lucien. We had walked for an hour without finding any
thing, when four partridges, with ash-colored breasts, tawny wings, and
tufted heads, rose about fifty paces from us, and settled down a little farther
on. Having arrived within easy gunshot, I told my son to fire when I did,
and two of them (which savants call the Sonini partridge) fell dead on the
ground. These pretty birds are rarely met with in Mexico, at least in the part
where we were.
I now returned towards the bivouac, taking a path through the forest.
"Oh papa, here's a great sponge!" cried Lucien, suddenly.
On our right there was a shapeless, porous, yellowish mass, rising three
or four feet above the ground. I saw at once that it was the nest of a termite,
or ant, which the Mexicans call comejen.
"It is a nest of white ants," I said to my son; "they are insects of the
neuropteral order, and allied to the libellula."
"But where are they?"
"You will soon see," I answered.
So, kicking the spongy mass, immediately out came a multitude of
insects, which swarmed about in every direction, as if to ascertain the cause

Page 177

of the disturbance. Lucien wanted to examine them closer.
"Take care," I called out to him; "the termites you see are nothing but the
inoffensive workers; the soldier ants will soon make their appearance, and if
they bite you they will certainly draw blood."
Lucien looked at me, thinking I was joking.
"I am speaking quite seriously," I hastened to add; "termites, like bees
and ants, the latter of which they much resemble at first sight, live in
communities, and build nests which are often larger than the one you are
looking at. This nest, skillfully divided into cells, contains a king, a queen,
workmen, and soldiers. The workmen are the clever architects, whose duty
it is to build, maintain, and, in case of need, increase the curious edifice
which you took for a sponge. The only duty of the soldiers is fighting
against enemies that attempt to disturb the peace of the colony."
"But I see thousands of holes; does each termite have a separate
chamber?"
"Not exactly; there is first a chamber for the queen, which is the largest;
then comes the nursery, afterwards a large compartment, in which the
working ants place the eggs which the queen lays night and day."
"How I should like to see all this!"
Being convinced that practical illustration is better than the clearest
explanation, I again struck the nest. The workmen, who were beginning to
disappear, soon came out again to examine the spot threatened, and in a
moment after the surface of the nest appeared to be swarming. I then kept
making a noise at one point of the nest only, when the soldier ants soon
rushed out, easily recognizable by their enormous heads; finally, I removed
a small portion of the outside of the construction, and brought to light a
multitude of white specks. These were the eggs, which the workmen hurried
to carry farther into the nest. After having caused all this disturbance, I led
Lucien away, for the ground was covered with soldier ants, and I was too
well aware of the violence of their stings to willingly expose him to them.
"But I haven't seen the queen," cried my young companion.

Page 178

"She keeps quite in the centre of the building, immured in a cell which
she seldom or never leaves, for her bulk is equal to that of twenty or thirty
working ants. Sumichrast, who has been a great observer of these insects,
asserts that the queen lays about eighty thousand eggs a day. As soon as
they are hatched, the young termites are carried off into large
compartments, where they are fed until they are old enough to take a part in
the labor. During the rainy season, a certain number of white ants are born
with four wings, which enables them to proceed to a distance and found
other colonies; but these wings are only temporary, and I have often been
puzzled by finding immense quantities of them."
"How do the termites manage to build their dwellings?"
"The one we have just examined appears to be formed of earth, kneaded
up with a kind of gum which the insect secretes. In the subterranean
passages of a termite's nest there are arches which seem to be composed of
morsels of wood stuck together by some sticky matter. These insects are
omnivorous, and, like ants, take care to lay up abundant stores of
provisions."
We were now commencing to climb the mountain, and, raising my eyes
aloft, I was glad to see our two companions already seated by the fire.

Page 179

Page 180

CHAPTER XV.
OUR SUBSTITUTES FOR LAMPS.—FIRST GLANCE INTO THE CAVE.—
THE ELATERIDES.—THE GOTHIC HALL.—STALAGMITES AND
STALACTITES.—A CHICHIQUIMEC CEMETERY.—THE "TREE OF ST.
IGNATIUS."—THE OPOSSUM AND ITS LITTLE ONES.

Lucien had run on in front with the two partridges; when I arrived at the
bivouac, I found an enormous mole roasting on the fire, and Sumichrast
catching with the utmost care the fat which ran from it.
"How did you kill this animal?" I asked, addressing my companions; "I
did not hear you fire."
"L'Encuerado knocked it down with the butt-end of his gun, and just at
the same moment your two shots brought us back to the cave."
"Why are you collecting this fat? Is it a prophet of some new dish in
preparation?"
"No; but I intend inspecting the cave, and with this grease we shall be
able to make a lamp, which will be more than useful."
I approved of Sumichrast's idea, and, as he had discovered a colony of
moles, proposed to go after dinner and catch some of them, so as to increase
our supply of light. Besides, I hoped that in this walk we should meet with
some kind of resinous tree, the branches of which might serve as torches.
Lucien could hardly restrain his joy, and wished to penetrate into the cave
without further delay. He scarcely gave himself time enough to eat, and
scolded l'Encuerado for being so slow, which was an indirect mode of
asking us to hurry.
Having again reached the forest, we searched for a pine or a fir, the
branches of which, being full of resin, would have enabled us to show more
mercy to the moles. Hearing us mention these two trees, Lucien wanted to
know the difference between them.

Page 181

"They both belong to the Coniferous family," replied Sumichrast; "but
firs generally grow upon lofty mountains far inland, while pines abound on
sea-coasts, the shifting, sandy soil of which is, after a time, consolidated
and fertilized by them."
Sumichrast's explanation still left much wanting; I saw this from
Lucien's numerous questions; but without seeing a specimen of each tree it
would have been difficult to better describe their peculiar characteristics.
After a long and unsuccessful walk, we halted in front of a guaiac-tree
with dark-green foliage, a higher tree than any we had before met with. This
fine member of the Rutacean family was covered with pale-blue flowers. It
produces a gum used especially by the English in the preparation of tooth-
powder; but the hardness of its wood, which would have blunted our
weapons, induced me to pass it by. A little farther on, l'Encuerado spied out
a liquid-amber tree, valuable on account of the balsam that oozes from its
branches when cut, which is burned by the Indians as incense. He climbed
the knotty trunk of this colossus, and cut off some branches, which
Sumichrast split into small pieces, after I had cleared off their leaves. Our
work was interrupted by the approach of night, and we made our way to our
bivouac, each loaded with a heavy fagot.
As soon as we arrived, Lucien had the satisfaction of trying one of our
flambeaux. The branch crackled when lighted, and, as we entered the
cavern, five or six bats flew out. I led Lucien by the hand, and very soon he
was the only one who could stand upright. Afterwards we entered a vast
chamber with a dome-shaped roof, which became lower the farther we
penetrated; this was rather a disappointment, as we had fancied there was
something more to be seen than a mere cave. A heap of reddish earth in one
corner attracted Sumichrast's attention, who examined it to see if he could
discover some fossil bones. Standing all together, we must have formed, by
the smoky light of our odoriferous torches, rather a fantastic-looking group.
More than half an hour elapsed without discovering any results from our
digging. L'Encuerado, who had tried to crawl in between the roof and the
ground, suddenly raised an exclamation; he had, in fact, all but fallen into a
deep pit. In an instant I was laid down flat on my stomach and crawling
towards the Indian; Lucien, owing to his size, was able to creep on his
hands and feet, and consequently soon got in front of me. We could soon

Page 182

see down into the bottom of the hole; the burning fragments of our torches
fell upon a heap of stones at a depth of twelve or fifteen feet. L'Encuerado
threw one of the torches into the chasm, and the vague glimmer showed us
a yawning opening on the left. Delighted with this discovery, we now beat a
retreat, deferring a more thorough exploration until the next day.
The night was dark, and during our absence the fire had almost gone out.
Just below us, a tree, the outline of which we could scarcely distinguish,
seemed covered with animated sparks. Lucien opened his eyes very widely
indeed, not being in the least able to understand this phenomenon, which
was produced by thousands of elaterides, insects which have on each side
of the thorax a yellowish spot which becomes luminous in the dark.
Nothing could be more curious than to see innumerable glittering spots
rising, falling, and crossing one another with extraordinary rapidity; one
might have fancied it a tree bearing flowers of fire waving about in the
breeze. L'Encuerado came up with a specimen, which lighted up his hand
with a greenish glimmer. Lucien took possession of it, and the two
luminous spots looked to him like two enormous eyes. Suddenly the insect
gave a kind of shock to the boy's fingers, who looked at us full of surprise.
"The name of the insect," said Sumichrast, "is derived from a Greek
word which signifies elastic; and it has just shown you that it well deserves
the family name which has been given to it. Examine for an instant how it is
shaped; the angles of its corslet form sharp points; added to this, its sternum
also terminates in a point which the insect can insert at will into the cavity
which exists under its second pair of legs. The women in the Terre-Chaude,
by passing a pin through this natural ring, can fix this brilliant insect as an
ornament in their hair, without injuring it in the least. Now, then, place it on
its back."
"It's pretending to be dead!" cried Lucien.
"Yes; it does that, like many other kinds of insects, in order to deceive an
enemy about to seize it."
"Oh, how it jumps!" exclaimed Lucien.
"That is its only means of getting on its feet again, when it has had the
misfortune of falling on its back. Look; it pushes the point which terminates

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its chest against the edge of the hole situated lower down; then it raises its
head, piff! paff! you might fancy it was a spring going off. It didn't succeed
the first time, but now it is up on its legs, and now you've lost it, for it has
flown off!"
Lucien's first impulse was to dart off in pursuit of it, as the route it had
taken was shown by its luminous appendages. But it was long past our
usual hour for repose, so we all sheltered ourselves as well as we could, and
dreamt of our next day's adventures.
Day-break found us all up, and already comforted with a cup of coffee.
We had been troubled during the night by mosquitoes; but they were only
the harbingers of the legions which are before us. Lucien, full of
impatience, could not take his eyes off the entrance of the cave, and
followed all our movements with anxiety. A hollow stone which
l'Encuerado had found was filled with fat, a morsel of linen served as a
wick, and our make-shift lamp soon burned and gave forth light.
As the branches which were to serve as torches were being distributed, I
noticed that a yellow and transparent drop had formed at the end of each.
This gum, by its odor and color, has given to the tree which produces it the
name of liquid amber. At last, followed by my companions, I entered the
cave; l'Encuerado placed the lamp on the edge of the pit, and the bats which
had been disturbed the evening before again commenced their whirling
flight.
Preceded by Sumichrast, I ventured down to the bottom of the pit. A
narrow passage led from it into a vast chamber, the more distant parts of
which we could not discern on account of the darkness. While my friend
was exploring, I returned for Lucien. The lamp, thanks to the Indian's skill,
was safely let down without extinguishing the light; lastly l'Encuerado
himself made his appearance. Passing along the narrow passage, I soon
perceived Sumichrast, who looked like some fantastic apparition as he
shook his torch over his head, endeavoring to see through the darkness
which enveloped us.
The lamp being set down at the entrance of the passage, each of us took
a lighted torch, and advanced at a slow pace. Sumichrast and the Indian
skirted the wall to the left, while I walked along the wall to the right. Our

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smoky torches gave but an imperfect light, and we could scarcely see
beyond three yards in front of us. A little farther on, the ground was strewn
with fallen stones; before venturing on this dangerous ground, I cast a
glance towards my companions; they were not in sight. I gave them a call—
a formidable clamor resounded through the chamber, and Lucien crept close
to me.
"It is the echo returning to our ears Sumichrast's answer," I hastened to
tell him. "They are in another chamber; you call them now!"
The boy, agitated, raised his voice. Immediately the dark vaults seemed
to repeat his words; and the sound increased, as it moved away, as if a
thousand persons, placed at intervals, were repeating some watch-word. A
sonorous "Hiou! hiou!" prevailed over the uproar, and the face of
l'Encuerado appeared on our right before the echo of the call had died away.
"Come and see a beautiful church!" cried the Indian. "A church made of
diamonds, Chanito!"
We moved towards the entrance by an inclined passage, down the slope
of which we followed l'Encuerado. The distance between the walls
gradually increased, and soon we found ourselves in a vast hall studded
with stalactites; in it Sumichrast arranged the lighted torches.
The Indian was not far wrong; we might easily have fancied ourselves in
a Gothic cathedral. The wildest dreams could not picture a stranger, more
original, or more fantastic style of architecture. Never did any painter of
fairy scenes imagine any effects more splendid. Hundreds of columns hung
down from the roof and reached the ground below. It was a really
wonderful assemblage of pointed arches, lace-work, branchery, and gigantic
flowers. Here and there were statues drawn by nature's hand. Lucien
particularly remarked a woman covered with a long veil, and stretching out
over our heads an arm which a sculptor's chisel could scarcely have
rendered more life-like. There were also shapeless mouths, monstrous
heads, and animals, appearing as if they had been petrified, in menacing
attitudes. The illusion was rendered more or less complete according to the
play of the light; and many a strange shape was but caught sight of for a
moment, to as rapidly vanish.

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While we were moving
about the cave, some long
needles, hanging from the
roof, touched our heads.
"They are stalactites," said
I to the astonished Lucien.
"The rain-water, filtering
through the mountain above,
dissolves the calcareous
matter it meets with, and
produces, when it evaporates,
the beautiful concretions you
are now looking at."
"Here is a needle coming
up from the ground."
"That is a stalagmite; it
increases upward, and not
downward like the stalactites,
through which, besides, a
tube passes. Look up at that
"The wildest dreams could not picture a beautiful needle, with a drop
of water glittering at the end
stranger . . . style of architecture."
of it. That liquid pearl, which
has already deposited on the stalactite a thin layer of lime, will fall down on
the stalagmite, the top of which is rounded. After a time the two needles
will join, adding another column to the grotto, which, in the course of time,
will become filled up with them."
"Then do stones proceed from water?" asked Lucien, with a thoughtful
air.
"To a certain extent," I replied; "water holds in solution calcareous
matter, and, as soon as the liquid evaporates, stone is formed."
"According to this," interposed l'Encuerado, "the pebbles ought to melt
in the rivers."

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"So they do; but they do not melt so easily as some things—sugar, for
instance. Don't you recollect that in the Rio Blanco the water is almost like
milk, and that it leaves a whitish coating on the branches, and even on the
leaves with which it comes in contact."
"That's true enough," replied the Indian, who had often wondered at the
petrifactions with which the banks of the White River abound.
"But the water that falls down here is quite clear," urged Lucien, holding
his torch close to a natural basin.
"But, nevertheless, it contains salts of lime in solution, the same, in fact,
as all water, particularly that from wells. And it is for this reason that
housekeepers will not use it; for it will not dissolve soap, and hardens the
vegetables that are cooked in it."
"Now do you understand this?" asked l'Encuerado, addressing Lucien; "I
don't."
"Yes, I do, a little."
"Well, you are very fortunate! The other day stones were said to come
from the sun or moon, and fly about all covered with fire; now, they are
formed by water. Perhaps M. Sumichrast will tell us to-morrow that they
come from the wind."
The Indian then walked away, quite indignant; we followed him, smiling
at his anger, becoming more and more enchanted by the spectacle which
met our eyes. Unfortunately, our torches gave a very insufficient light, and
the thick smoke rapidly blackened the arches above us. A great polished
stone now impeded our passage, and compelled us to crawl. I took the lead,
and, passing through a kind of narrow corridor, made my way into a small
chamber. I raised a sudden exclamation; for five or six skulls,
symmetrically arranged, seemed to glare at me through their empty orbits.
"Oh father!" cried Lucien, "are we in a cemetery?"
"Yes, my boy; I think this must be a Chichimec burial-place. This nation,
which preceded the Toltecs and Aztecs in Mexico, were in the habit of
depositing their dead in caverns."

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Sumichrast examined a
skull which he had picked
up; its white and perfect
teeth showed that it must
have belonged to a man who
died young. A few paces
farther on five or six more
skulls lay on the surface of
the ground; they were
inclosed in by fine
stalactites, and appeared as if
they were grinning at us
through the bars of a
dungeon.
For more than a thousand
years, perhaps, these skulls
had reposed in the niches
which had evidently been
hollowed out on purpose for
them. The soil of the grotto
had apparently risen at a
subsequent period. What
revelations as to the ancient "Five or six skulls . . . seemed to glare at
history of Mexico might be me through their empty orbits."
contained in this cave!
Without much difficulty, l'Encuerado broke through the upper calcareous
layer, and brought to light some loamy earth, out of which he procured a
small cup of baked clay. I then began digging; my fingers soon touched
some hard object; it was a small stone statuette. I had scarcely loosened my
discovery from the earth, before Lucien also plunged his arm into the hole
and brought out a little fancifully-shaped tortoise, the tail of which had been
used as a whistle. Enticed on by these successes, we knelt down so as to
break through a wider extent of the calcareous stratum; but our torches
began to burn palely, and the close chamber, now filled with a thick smoke,
was no longer bearable. Sumichrast complained of humming in his ears,
and I also felt uncomfortable; so, much against our inclination, I gave the

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signal of departure. The lamp was dying out, and was filling the outer
chamber with a nasty smell, which gave the finishing-stroke to our
unpleasant feelings. L'Encuerado and Lucien were the first to leave the
cave; from it I afterwards emerged with Sumichrast, both being quite
blinded, when we reached the open air, by the overpowering rays of the sun.
Shouts of laughter resounded on all sides; we had the appearance of
negroes, or rather of chimney-sweeps. It was no use thinking about washing
ourselves; the contents of our gourds were too precious; and besides, there
would not have been water sufficient. As there was water in the cave,
l'Encuerado offered to go in and fetch some; but the smoke which escaped
from the hole made me feel anxious, so, for the time, I opposed the Indian's
re-descending into it.
We were surprised at the time our exploration had lasted; it had taken no
less than four hours. Although we had made up our minds to continue our
journey on coming out of the cavern, the fatigue we felt, added to a desire
to have another look at the subterranean wonders, decided us to put off our
departure until the next day.
After resting an hour, we all set off to seek our dinner. I examined with
much curiosity the neighborhood of our encampment. The presence of
skulls in the cave proved that some Indian tribe had once inhabited this
locality; but as the Chichimec (or Chichiquimec, in the chapter-heading)
Indians constructed nothing but huts, time had, doubtless, obliterated all
trace of their former presence.
I can hardly describe the pleasure I felt in again viewing the woods, the
verdure, the insects, the flowers, and enjoying the light of the sun. The
interior of a cave, certainly, has the effect of producing melancholy,
attributable, no doubt, to the silence and darkness; for the beautiful hall,
radiant with stalactites, was but little likely to cause sadness. The effect on
Lucien's mind was of a serious character, and he seemed never to be weary
of asking questions.
"These natural hollows," said Sumichrast, "often occur in gypsum
mountains, but still more frequently in volcanic or calcareous masses.
Some, which are as old as the world itself, date from the earliest upheavals
of the surface of the globe, when the fused matter which composes the

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centre of the earth broke through the scarcely solidified crust, and, rushing
upward, formed the mountain chains we now see."
"Then the centre of the
earth has been once in a
liquid state?"
"It is so still, as is shown
by volcanoes; but the period
of great catastrophes is past.
The molten matter solidified
on the surface, as it became
cool, and then water made its
appearance, and transformed
and rendered habitable the
thin crust on which we live,
the thickness of which is so
inconsiderable when
compared with the bulk of the
globe."
"What is this molten
matter composed of which is
burning under our feet?"
"The same substances
which we see around us—
granite, porphyry, and basalts,
which are called igneous or
Vulcanian rocks, as contrasted
with the Neptunean rocks,
Crater of Popocatepetl. such as gypsum or lime, clay
and sandstone, the
agglomeration of which is attributed to water. The science which deals with
these subjects is called geology, a study with which, some day, you will be
delighted."
"Then all Vulcanian rocks can be melted?"

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"Yes, if they were subject to as great a heat as that existing in the centre
of the earth, which reaches an intensity at which the imagination recoils.
But to return to the subject of caves. Some have been produced by the
dissolving action of water. Thus, at some future date, the spring which we
saw gushing out from the fallen mountain might dry up or alter its direction,
and leave for the curiosity of future travellers the sight of chambers full of
stalactites such as we have inspected."
Our geological chat was interrupted by an exclamation from
l'Encuerado, who had just discovered a tree which the Mexicans call "the
Tree of St. Ignatius." Its fruit is of a brown color, with a woody husk,
something like small melons, which, as they hang on the tree, strike against
one another with a sharp sound. L'Encuerado informed Lucien that this fruit
is in the habit of bursting suddenly with a loud explosion, and that the flat
beans which they contain are much used as medicine.

Sumichrast led the way through the forest, where we were sheltered
under the tall trees. After a somewhat long ramble, during which we met
with nothing but magpies, I requested l'Encuerado to guide us back to our
bivouac. All of a sudden my friend enjoined silence; an opossum, followed
by five young ones, was coming near us on our left. The animal indolently
approached a tree of middling size, which it climbed, aided by its prehensile
tail. Its progeny crowded busily round the foot of the tree, uttering plaintive
cries. The opossum then came down again, and scarcely had it put foot to

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the ground before its disconsolate family rushed pell-mell into the maternal
pouch. Thus loaded, the animal climbed the tree more slowly, and sat
herself quietly on one of the lowest branches. We could see nothing but the
pointed muzzles and black eyes of the little ones, which seemed as if they
were looking down from the top of a balcony. One of them at last ventured
to emerge, and crawled along the branches; soon the whole litter followed
this example. Sumichrast advised Lucien to clap his hands, and I ordered
l'Encuerado not to fire at the poor animal. Frightened at the noise, the little
ones hastened to their mother, who set up her thin ears and showed us a
double row of white teeth. One of the stupid little things, in its haste to
reach its asylum, fell down from the tree. In a moment the opossum had
jumped down close to it, and turned towards us her threatening jaws; then,
finding all her treasure complete, she disappeared among the brush-wood.
"Why didn't you let me shoot at the tlacuache?" asked l'Encuerado.
"What is the good of killing a poor creature which would be of no use to
us?"
"You know well enough," replied the Indian, "that this 'poor beast' finds
its way into granaries; that it devours the corn and also fowls, without
reckoning the damage made by them in other ways."
"Yes, that's true enough; but this animal, at least, is innocent of all these
misdeeds, for it lives too far from any town."
This scene had quite delighted Lucien. I acquainted him with the fact
that opossums, kangaroos, and several other animals of the kind, the
females of which are provided with a pouch to shelter the young ones, are,
for this reason, called marsupials.
The opossum is very common in Mexico. Its long, pointed, and deeply-
divided muzzle is armed with fifty-two formidable teeth, although the
animal feeds principally on eggs, insects, and birds. The young of those
species which are unprovided with the pouch, as soon as they are able to
walk, climb up on their mother's back and intertwine their tails with hers,
which she carries over her back for this purpose. This instinct is perhaps
more curious than that which leads them to dart into their mother's
protecting pouch.

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Time was getting on; it now became important for us to reach the spot
where the moles were; and l'Encuerado predicted good sport there without
firing off his gun.

Page 193

CHAPTER XVI.
THE EARTH-NUTS.—A WILD-CAT'S FEAST.—ANOTHER EXPLORING
EXPEDITION TO THE CAVE.—THE BATS.—EXCAVATIONS IN A TOMB.

While making our way through the brush-wood, in the hopes of putting
up some game of a more appetizing nature than the opossum, our feet
became entangled in the fibrous and creeping branches of the earth-nut,
called by the Indians tlalcacahuatl. Although the stems were still covered
with white flowers, l'Encuerado dug up the soil in which the fruit had
buried itself in order to complete its ripening, and there found a quantity.
The tlalcacahuatl, which is classed by botanists in the leguminous order,
produces yellowish, wrinkled pods, each containing three or four kernels,
which are eaten after being roasted in their shells; their taste is something
like that of a chestnut. It is now cultivated to some extent in Europe, and the
nut produces an oil which does not readily turn rancid, and is used in Spain
in the manufacture of soap.
Lucien and l'Encuerado were the most pleased at the discovery, for they
were very fond of these earth-nuts, which, on the days of religions festivals,
are sold by heaps in front of the Mexican churches.
"It is the day but one after Ascension-day," cried the Indian; "we
certainly can not hear Mass, but, at all events, we can try to please God by
eating pea-nuts in His honor."
The sun was beginning to sink, and hunger dictated to us that we should
hasten our steps. I therefore led my companions towards the bivouac. We
had but just started again, when five or six hares came giddily running
almost between our legs. Lucien was skillful enough to shoot one, and
Sumichrast knocked down another. L'Encuerado loaded with the game, we
proceeded to our hut.
Being now reassured as to our bill-of-fare for dinner by this unexpected
windfall, I kept on walking towards the entrance of a glade, the soil of
which, being quite burrowed, betrayed the presence of the moles. Each of
us lay down under the shade of a tree. Chance led me under a robinia or

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iron-wood tree, the trunk of which will defy the best-tempered axe. In front
of me stood a tepehuage, a kind of mahogany-tree, with dark-colored
foliage, which will become, some day, the object of considerable trade
between Europe and Mexico; the beauty of this red wood, veined with
black, renders it highly fitted for the manufacture of furniture.
Gringalet had followed the Indian. I advised Lucien to keep silence, so
as to observe the operations of the moles, who would be certain to come out
of their burrows as soon as the sun set. In fact, first one, then two, and at
last twenty made their appearance; and in less than a quarter of an hour I
counted more than a hundred engaged in throwing up the ground, playing
about, and fighting, all the time uttering shrill cries. Lucien was much
amused as he watched them squatting down on their hinder parts, making
grimaces, and gnawing the roots and bark.
A single gunshot would have enabled us to double our store of grease,
but it would have been a waste of our powder and shot. In fear of yielding
to the temptation, I was thinking of giving the signal for departure, when it
became evident that the animals whose games were enlivening us were
actuated by a sudden panic. All the moles, which were solemnly seated,
nodded to and fro their enormous heads, showing their long yellow incisors,
and seemed to sniff the air. Suddenly they all rushed towards their burrows.
A jaquarete had scattered them by springing in among them. The new-
comer, a species of wild-cat, with a coat of the darkest black, left two or
three victims dead upon the ground, and then set up a plaintive mewing.
This call soon attracted two young ones, which darted at once on the first
mole they came to. Each of them seized hold of one side of their prey,
spitting just like cats, and trying to tear it with their formidable claws. The
mother was obliged to put a stop to the quarrel by an energetic display of
authority, allotting a separate victim to each of her ferocious offspring; then
she lay down and yawned several times, while the young ones were tearing
to pieces the bodies of their prey. When they had eaten all they required, the
mother gluttonously devoured all that was left, without ceasing to watch a
third mole, round which the two young carnivora were prowling. Whenever
they came near her prey, she gave a growl; and they seemed to know the
meaning of this maternal injunction, for they crouched down to the ground,
and drew back, lowering their heads, as if from fear. As soon as her repast

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was finished, the jaquarete caught up in her mouth the untouched mole, and
made off without noticing us.
"What do you think of these little ogres?" asked Sumichrast, addressing
Lucien.
"How very pretty they are, with their black shiny coats! They are just
like big cats."
"That's very likely, for cats are their first cousins."
"Do jaquaretes ever attack men?"
"No; but, still, if we had tried to touch her young ones, the mother would
perhaps have flown at us."
"To eat us?" asked Lucien, opening his eyes very widely.
"She would bite and tear us with her claws, or otherwise injure us. But
seriously, as a general rule, wild beasts, or carnivora, as the savants call
them, are always formidable, and, whatever may be their size, it is unsafe to
provoke them. If one of us, unarmed, had to fight hand to hand with a wild-
cat, it is probable that he would receive more injury from the contest than
the animal."
Night was now falling fast; but, fortunately, our fire guided us to our
resting-place. When we were yet some distance off, we were amused at
seeing the Indian prowling round, or gravely sitting down face to face with
the dog, with whom, no doubt, he was chatting. Suddenly the dog jumped
up, pricking up his ears, and ran out to meet us, while l'Encuerado raised
over his head a burning branch to throw a light upon our path.
At day-break we were awakened by the voice of the Indian. The gloomy
appearance of the weather threatened us with one of those fine rains which
appear to last forever. Sumichrast went off to cut some long switches
covered with leaves, one of which light boughs he handed to each of us
before he would allow us to enter the cave.
"What are these switches for?" asked Lucien, in surprise.
"M. Sumichrast wants to catch some bats, Chanito."

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"Does he intend to eat them?"
"Oh no; though I have no doubt they would be very good."
"Their flesh is delicious," interposed Sumichrast; "the wing especially is
a tidbit which I can highly recommend."
But my friend could not keep a serious face when he saw Lucien's
frightened look; so his joke partly failed in its effect.
L'Encuerado entered the cave on tiptoe. The rest of us, taking up a
position at the entrance, made every preparation to enrich our collections.
Two bats soon fell, beaten down by our switches. Lucien examined them
without much repugnance, but the shape of their muzzles surprised him
even more than their wings. One of those which he examined had lips
cloven in the middle and doubled back; the other had a flat nose and still
more hideous visage, and possessed, instead of ears, two enormous holes, at
the bottom of which were situate its black and brilliant eyes. Added to this,
the membrane of its wings was so thin and transparent that it seemed as if it
must tear with the slightest exertion. The poor little animal gradually
recovered itself, and showed its delicate and sharp teeth. Sumichrast took it
up, and hung it by the claw at the end of its forearm, in order to show
Lucien the way in which these creatures cling to the rough places which
form their usual resting-place; but it suddenly let go its hold, and
disappeared in the dark cave open in front of us.
The bat, apparently an imperfectly-formed creature, was for a long time
a puzzle to naturalists. Fontaine makes it say:
"I am a bird; look at my wings!
I am a mouse; the mice forever!"
Savants, also, used to describe it as a bird provided with hair instead of
feathers, and with teeth instead of a bill. Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire was the first
to teach that the wings of the bat are nothing but the fingers of the animal
joined together by a thin membrane. I had thus another opportunity of
proving to Lucien the wisdom of our Creator, and the simplicity of the
means He employs in producing the infinite variety of beings which people
the universe.

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"This is the first time," cried l'Encuerado, indignantly, "that I have heard
the devil made use of as a means of bestowing praise upon Almighty God."
"Bats have no connection with your devil," said Sumichrast; "they are
nothing but animals, rather more curiously constructed than others."
"Oh! M. Sumichrast, then you can never have examined their wings?
The Satan that St. Michael is treading under his feet in the beautiful picture
in the convent at Orizava has wings just like the bats. And as to these
caverns, every one knows that they are the residences of bad spirits."
"Let us make our way at once into it, then," said Lucien, who in no way
shared his friend's superstition.
As on the day before, we descended to its bottom, and, skirting the left-
hand wall, entered a wide chamber, in which water fell in a continual
shower. We were inconvenienced by the icy drops which ran down our
clothes, and I therefore advised Sumichrast to turn back; but instead of
doing so, he pushed on into a winding passage. Before long the roof became
so low that Lucien alone could stand upright. I brought up the rear,
watching my guides, who kept on ascending or descending, according to the
inequalities of the ground. Sometimes it was necessary to halt, to climb
over a rock, or cross a pool of water. At last I saw my companions again
resume their upright position; we were now in a hall, so vast that our
torches were quite powerless to throw a light up to the roof.
Surrounded by hundreds of bats, flitting round the torches like immense
moths, and yet always avoiding them, we had ample opportunity for
observing the precision of their flight. At length, stunned by their shrill
cries, I again proposed to beat a retreat, but Sumichrast insisted upon
continuing our search. He urged that the bats, who went out every night into
the open air to seek their food, would not be likely to follow the narrow
winding path we had followed; there must therefore be some other outlet.
My friend and l'Encuerado set off in search of it; but I did not dare to
venture farther with my boy over the damp and sticky ground. Our two
scouts, however, climbed some enormous heaps of rock many feet above
us; and we suddenly lost sight them.

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The bats still swarmed
round us, pushing their
familiarity so far as to brush
us with their wings. My
prudence rather vexed Lucien,
who had become very intrepid.
After about five minutes,
Sumichrast's voice summoned
us, and we bent our steps
towards the heap of rocks
which had been scaled by our
companions.
The ascent was difficult,
and, in spite of remonstrances,
I would not let go Lucien's
hand. Fortunately I did not do
so, for suddenly he slipped,
and, while trying to save him,
I dropped my torch; and there
we were, perched up on this
pile of débris, in utter
darkness.
"Our two scouts climbed some
"Don't move!" I cried; "you enormous heaps of rocks."
know that we are surrounded
by precipices."
"How dark it is! One might fancy that the darkness was solid, and
weighed down upon our eyes."
"The fact is, that we are in a darkness in which the light does not
penetrate, even by reflection, and, like you, I could readily fancy that I was
blindfolded. Call l'Encuerado."
The vaulted roof above us re-echoed the name of the Indian, who
immediately replied.

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The bats now ceased their flight; but when the light reappeared the
uproar began afresh. Lucien related our accident to his friend, who, in his
hurry to come to our rescue, fell several times over the rocks. At last he
reached us, and, lighting our torches, he guided us over the dangerous
ground. When we cleared the fallen rocks, we entered a chamber studded
with stalactites, on which Sumichrast's torches threw a light, and the walls
of the cave glittered as if they had been covered with crystal stars. From the
ground, from the roof, and from the walls, clusters of variegated rays were
reflected in every direction, as if emanating from ten thousand diamonds.
The beauty of this scene was quite sufficient to dazzle far less enthusiastic
spectators than we were. But it was not long before a repulsive, oppressive,
thick smoke compelled us to move on, and a few paces through a passage
brought us into the centre of an immense hall, lighted by an aperture into
the open air.
I joyfully hailed the blue sky, and then closely examining the ground we
were treading on, noticed that it was covered with fragments of baked clay.
Removing this, it was not long before we came to a layer of damp charcoal.
L'Encuerado went outside and cut some branches, which, when pointed at
the end, helped us in our digging. After two hours of hard work, we
succeeded in laying bare more than a square yard of black and greasy
mould.
Thoroughly exhausted, in spite of my curiosity being excited, I was
compelled to follow Sumichrast out of the cave in order to breathe the fresh
air. A fine rain was falling, and I was so devoted to the idea of my
excavation in the cave, that I was very glad to use the state of the weather as
a pretext for putting off our departure to the next day.
My companions had hardly recovered their breath before I summoned
them back to work. L'Encuerado, as the hole became larger, was quite
excited, and soon fancied that he could perceive gold. The fact is, that every
Indian believes that all caves and grottoes contain unheard-of treasures,
either the work of nature or buried by man, and that these treasures are
guarded by some malicious genius, who allows the searchers just to catch a
glimpse of the hidden riches, but never permits their being carried away.

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"Don't laugh, Tatita," said the Indian to me, with a mysterious air;
"especially just at this moment."
He then went on to tell us
that a friend of his, who was
tending his flocks on the
mountain, ran into the
thickets in pursuit of one of
his goats. The animal
continued to retreat before
him, and led him to the mouth
of a cave. The Indian,
hesitating at first, at length
took off all his clothes, so as
to be sure that he carried no
iron about him, and entered
the cavern. But he soon drew
back, startled by the sight of
fifty broken boxes
overflowing with coined
money. Instead of profiting by
this windfall, and taking
possession of the fortune by
appropriating some of it
which had fallen out on the
"The animal continued to retreat before ground, the stupid fellow
him, and led him to the mouth of a returned to his village as
cave." quick as he could, and
communicated his discovery
to his friends. That very evening five of them set out, provided with sacks,
intending to convey the treasure to a safe place. They camped in the vicinity
of the cave, and the night wore away in drinking to the health of the good
genius. As soon as day appeared, they followed their guide. First they
ascended, and then they descended; but they never succeeded in finding the
spot where all this enormous wealth lay.
"He was not able to find his way back to the spot?" said Lucien, much
interested by the story.

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"No, Chanito; the cave had become invisible."
"Invisible! but why?"
"Because they had some iron about them!"
"But you have just told us that he stripped off all his clothes?" interposed
Sumichrast.
"Ah! but, unfortunately, he kept his flint and steel in his hand."
The afflicted tone in which l'Encuerado pronounced this last phrase drew
a smile even from Lucien.
Again we entered the cavern, and picking over with care the layer of
charcoal which had already been laid bare, I discovered a small vase of
burnt clay, full of ashes. On one of the faces of the urn was depicted a
grinning visage, and in the interior was found one of the so-called pilgrim's
scallop-shells with the skull of a bird. Accustomed as I was, by long
apprenticeship, to such discoveries, I had no doubt whatever but that a
skeleton would soon present itself, and a skull was soon discovered; then
the vertebræ and tibiæ of a human being. Next we found some obsidian
arrow-heads; and, last of all, some small broken clay figures. Unfortunately,
it was no use thinking about carrying away all these relics; so I made up my
mind to give up further labor. Directly after dinner we busied ourselves in
putting our baggage in order, so as to be ready to start the next morning at
day-break.

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Page 203

CHAPTER XVII.
A FORCED MARCH.—WILD-DUCKS.—VEGETABLE SOAP.—AN
UNWELCOME GUEST.

It rained all night, and I awoke about seven o'clock in the morning
shivering with cold. It was Ascension-day, and l'Encuerado, before making
up the fire, chanted a canticle, and, after the manner of Roman Catholics,
piously crossed himself. We were soon comforted with some coffee, and
then, each of us resuming his burden, started off to reach the foot of the
mountain. Before plunging into the forest, I could not help looking back
with regret at the cave we had scarcely explored, and in which so many
archæological curiosities remained buried. The sun only showed itself at
intervals through grayish-looking clouds driven violently along by the east
wind. The state of the earth, moistened by rain which had lasted twenty-four
hours, rendered our progression very difficult, for we were traversing a
ferruginous soil. Such wretched walking put the finishing-stroke to our ill-
humor by smearing and soiling our clothes; for my part, I inwardly
anathematized travelling in general, more especially in rainy weather.
Just as we were emerging from this miserable ravine, Gringalet, who had
no doubt scented something, suddenly rolled himself upon the ground,
frantically. We had proceeded some distance before he rejoined us, covered
with a coating of red clay, which gave him as singular an aspect as can well
be imagined. The dog ran up and down, bounded about and barked, as if he
was making it a business to amuse us. Nor were his efforts without success.
We now reached a small plain, in which the sun flooded us with its warm
rays. This had the effect of putting us into better humor; for our clothes
dried, and with the warmth the feelings of discomfort to which we had been
a prey departed.
We were again entering among trees, when l'Encuerado suddenly
stopped.
"What is that moving down below there?" he said.
"Some deer," I replied, after looking at them through my glass.

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Each of us hurried to hide behind a bush, in hopes that the beautiful
animals would come within gunshot. Several times l'Encuerado expressed a
wish to move round to the other side of the plain; but I opposed his idea, as
the distance was too great. We spent more than an hour in watching the
flock browsing, playing about, and licking themselves; but not one of them
ventured in our direction. Tired with this inaction, Sumichrast emerged
from his hiding-place, and the deer scampered off. Upon the whole,
however, this delay had not been altogether useless; for, thanks to the heat
of the sun, the ground had become more traversable, and my friend actually
hummed a tune as he took the lead.
The time when we ought to have settled our bivouac had long passed,
yet we were still on the road. The path we were treading was flat and
unpromising, and the water from the cave, with which we had filled our
gourds, was so unpleasant in taste that we longed to find a spring. Being
unable to get a clear view of the horizon, I directed l'Encuerado to climb to
the summit of a lofty tree. The Indian ascended to its topmost branch, and,
having surveyed the prospect in every direction, came down far from
pleased at having failed to discern what he desired. Fatigue, however, now
compelled us to halt.
Our hut was soon constructed, the fire lighted, and the stew-pot filled
with water and rice. Not one of us felt inspired with sufficient courage to
induce him to go reconnoitring. An hour after sunset we were all sleeping
side by side; l'Encuerado had quite forgotten his earth-nuts, and even
dropped off to sleep without having been able to finish the chant which he
commenced.
I was wakened up by the cries of the tanagers—a beautiful species of
bird which lives in flocks. Lucien, like all the rest of us, complained of
feeling rather stiff in the joints, resulting, no doubt, from our long journey
the day before. On the morrow our little party started with rather a hobbling
gait; the presence of the birds seemed to tell us that we were near some
stream. Our limbs began gradually to lose their numbness; we were now
descending an almost imperceptible slope, and the vegetation assumed a
more tropical aspect. As we passed along, I noticed several pepper-plants;
and next we came to bushes, round which myriads of cardinal birds were
flying. Guided by these beautiful red-plumaged creatures, we suddenly

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found ourselves on the banks of a stream, running noiselessly over a bed of
white sand.
With as little delay as possible, a fire gave forth its exhilarating flame.
Butterflies, dragon-flies, and birds fluttered round the flowering shrubs.
There was a perfect concert of buzzing and twittering, and a gentle breeze
agitated the foliage and cooled the air. Nothing seemed wanting for our
comfort but game for our dinner. Fortunately, Providence rarely does things
by halves. We had scarcely sat down to take breath, when a flock of wild-
ducks settled near us. They were at once saluted by a platoon fire, and four
victims strewed the ground and water with their white, brown, and blue
feathers.
"These are the first aquatic birds we have met with," said Sumichrast; "it
will not be long now before we are among the marshes."
"What birds are wild-ducks related to?" asked Lucien.
"To swans and geese, Master Sunbeam," replied my friend. "All the
individuals of this order, as their name—palmipedes, or web-footed birds—
indicates, have their toes united by a wide membrane. Ducks, many species
of which are found in Mexico, have a flat bill; and their short legs, placed
so far behind, compel them to waddle in walking, although they can swim
with great facility."
"How do they manage to perch on a tree with feet of that kind?"
"With the exception of the wood-duck, this family never perch; they pass
the day in dabbling in the water, and sleep upon its surface, or among the
reeds."
"Then they must always be wet."

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"Not so; nature has
covered the feathers of web-
footed birds with an oily
substance, which renders
their plumage quite water-
proof. Ducks are gregarious,
and migrate from one locality
to another, according to the
seasons. They are so
common on the lagoons
which surround the city of
Mexico, that sportsmen
scarcely will be troubled
shooting them."
While l'Encuerado was
preparing dinner, I and my
companions walked along
the edge of the stream.
Before long I discovered
some water-cress—a lucky
discovery for travellers who
are confined constantly to
"They were at once saluted by a platoon animal food. Lucien
fire." examined the small white
flowers, which have obtained
for all its family the name of Cruciferæ; these vegetables contain an acrid
and volatile oil, which gives them strong anti-scorbutic qualities. The
cabbage (Brassica oleracea), turnip (B. napus), radish (Raphanus sativus),
and mustard (Sinapis alba), are of the crucifera order. To this list we must
also add the horse-radish, the colza, the seed of which produces an oil well
adapted for lighting purposes; the crysimum, or hedge-mustard, a popular
remedy in France for coughs; the shepherd's purse, which the Mexicans use
as a decoction for washing wounds; and the Lepidium piscidium, employed
by the natives of Oceanica for intoxicating fish, so as to catch them more
easily.

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"You quite forget the cochlearia, or scurvy-grass, so useful to sailors as a
remedy for scurvy?" said Sumichrast.
"You are right; but I think I've said enough about the Cruciferæ for
Master Sunbeam to remember."
A few paces farther on, while we were looking for insects under the
leaves of a shrub, Lucien drew back in surprise at seeing it covered with the
pretty little creatures called tree-frogs (Hyla viridis). Instead of flying
towards the water, these reptiles made for the woods. Sumichrast explained
to the young naturalist that tree-frogs have sticky disks on their feet, and by
the aid of this mechanism they could move about on leaves and even on
smooth surfaces.
"In Europe," he added, "the peasants shut them up in bottles half full of
water, and assert that the animal predicts good or bad weather by either
coming up to the top or keeping under the water. The tree-frog, like all its
fellows, buries itself in the mud during winter, and remains torpid. This
lethargy, which in glacial climates has the effect of preserving it from
hunger, must in Mexico have some other cause, for in the latter country it
can find food all the year round. The skin of the tree-frog secretes a
poisonous matter."
"Come here and look at an apple-tree!" cried Lucien, suddenly.
I hastened to the spot, and found a shrub about thirteen or fourteen feet
high, covered with berries of a yellowish color, spotted with red. I
recognized what is called in the Antilles the soap-tree. This discovery came
just in the nick of time, and Sumichrast helped us in gathering some of the
useful fruit which would assist us to give our clothes a thorough wash.
Lucien tasted the little apples, which were as transparent as artificial fruit
made of pure wax; but he did not like their astringent flavor, and threw
them away with every expression of disgust.
A quarter of an hour later, we were all kneeling on the banks of the
stream and trying who could perform the greatest amount of washing, the
fruit of the soap-tree affording us a plentiful supply of lather. In the Terre-
Tempérée, a root called amoli is a substitute for soap; in the Terre-Chaude a
bulb named amolito is used for the same purpose; lastly, in the Mistec

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province of Oajaca, the poor find a natural soap in the bark of the Quillaja
saponaria, a tree belonging to the rose tribe. Even in Europe, a vegetable
soap is also found—the soap-wort—a little plant allied to the pinks, and
which adorns with its unpretending flowers the edges of ditches, and is
employed by housewives for cleaning silk stuffs and reviving their faded
colors.
Quite refreshed with our wash, we stretched ourselves close to the camp
fire, looking forward to our meal of roast ducks dressed with cresses, rice,
and seasoned with allspice. On taking the first mouthful, I made a grimace
which was imitated by Sumichrast. The rice had an unbearable aromatic
taste. L'Encuerado regarded us with a triumphant look.
"What on earth have you put in the saucepan?" I cried, angrily.
"Don't you think it is nice, Tatita?"
"It's perfectly filthy; you've poisoned us!" But I soon recognized the
smell of a kind of coriander with which the Indians occasionally saturate
their food. Sumichrast, like me, had not got beyond the first mouthful; but
Lucien, who shared to some extent l'Encuerado's weakness for the culantro,
was having quite a feast. Our bill of fare was thus reduced to a single dish,
and I left the broiled duck to my two companions and confined myself to
the roast. With an artlessness that approached the sublime, the Indian,
thinking that we should prefer the fresh plant to the cooked, the odor of
which had been somewhat softened down by the operation, presented us
with several stalks. On the whole, however, he was not altogether to blame,
for we often ate with pleasure his national style of cookery, and he had full
right to be surprised at our repugnance to their favorite bon bouche.
Gringalet just tasted the rice, then retired to roll on the twigs of coriander
which were lying on the ground, a proceeding which did not much improve
his toilet.
The sun was setting, and hundreds of birds were assembling around us.
Yellow, blue, green, or red wings were cleaving the air in all directions.
There were finches of a violet-black, with orange-colored breasts and
heads, some blue or golden-throated grossbeaks, and birds adorned with a
variety of coloring, which the Mexicans call "primroses," while a number of

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mockingbirds were warbling airs worthy of the nightingale. The sun, lost
amidst the golden clouds, bathed the trees and bushes with a soft light.
Gradually all became silent and nothing was heard but the murmur of the
stream, while birds of prey soared over our heads on their way to the
mountains. The eastern sky was now wrapped in shade and the stars
twinkled in the dark heavens, while on every bush animated sparks
appeared to flit about.
I had been asleep more than two hours, when I was suddenly awakened
by Gringalet barking. I jumped up simultaneously with my companions,
who were also alarmed by a rustling among the dry leaves. Silence was
soon restored, and I fancied, although the dog continued to growl, that it
was a false alarm; so I was about to lie down again, when Sumichrast's hand
touched me on the shoulder. An enormous serpent was gliding over the
ground beside us.
I at once recognized the black sugar-cane snake, which is only
formidable on account of its size; the planters are in the habit of attracting it
to their fields, to keep them clear of mischievous rodents. L'Encuerado
noiselessly left the hut. The snake raised its head, and slowly contracting its
rings, and throwing round a bright glance, turned towards us. Sumichrast
was just taking aim, when we heard the report of a gun, and our hut was
almost in a moment afterwards crushed in by the repeated and furious
struggles of the wounded reptile.
There was one moment of utter confusion; I disengaged myself as soon
as I could, at the same time protecting the stupefied Lucien, and drawing
him away. When I turned round, Sumichrast was approaching l'Encuerado,
who, cutlass in hand, was hacking at the serpent, to render it further
incapable of mischief.
At last the fragments of the black snake, blindly tumbling about, became
lost in the thicket, and all was again quiet.
"Well," said Sumichrast, "if, instead of being frightened, we had only
kept quiet, the snake would not have troubled us, and we should still have
had our house to shelter us."

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"All's well that ends well,"
I replied, smiling.
L'Encuerado again made up
the fire; Lucien
complimented the dog on his
watchfulness, who thereupon
licked his face. This undue
familiarity drew upon him a
lecture on politeness, the end
of which I was too sleepy to
hear.

"I at once recognized the black sugar-
cane snake."

Page 211

Page 212

CHAPTER XVIII.
WILD DAHLIAS.—A PAINFUL MISADVENTURE.—THE EUPHORBIA
PLANTS.—THE WASHER RACCOON.—SURPRISED BY A TORRENT.—
L'ENCUERADO TURNED HAT-MAKER.—NEW METHOD FOR DRIVING
OUT EVIL SPIRITS.—THE ANHINGA.

The next day, which was the nineteenth since our departure from
Orizava, we examined and compared our compasses, and the course of our
journey was changed. Hitherto we had proceeded in a north-easterly
direction, skirting the provinces of Puebla and Vera Cruz, but still without
leaving the Cordilleras, the numerous valleys and forests of which are still
unexplored. According to my calculations, and also those of Sumichrast, we
were then abreast with the province of Mexico, and we agreed to move
westward, as if going towards its capital.
"Why are we not to continue to keep straight on?" asked Lucien.
"Because our journey must have some limit," I replied. "Up to the
present time we have only traversed what is called the Terre-Tempérée; we
shall now soon reach the Terre-Froide, and in three or four days we shall
again encounter habitations."
"Shall we see any people there?"
"I hope so; don't you like the idea of it?"
"I don't object to it; but it will seem so very strange to look again at
houses and men."
"Oh dear!" cried Sumichrast; "you have become a perfect little savage."
"Travelling about on foot is so amusing, that I should be glad if the
journey lasted a very long time—that is, if I had a chance now and then of
kissing mamma."
"Poor Sunbeam!" said Sumichrast; "I can't help thinking of next year
when you are at school. You will then often think of your present life."

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"Oh papa, if you go out for another excursion during the holidays, I hope
you will take me with you, for you see I know how to walk."
"Before we think about another journey, let us first finish the present.
You seem to forget that the roughest part of our work is yet before us."
"Do you mean crossing the Terre-Froide?"
"No; we shall only take a glimpse at that; but in the Terre-Chaude, we
may meet with many trials."
"Bah!" said Lucien, kissing me; "the Terre-Chaude is almost like home;
I shall behave so well, that you will be able to tell mamma that I am quite a
man."
The sun was up when I gave the order for starting. Sumichrast went so
far as to suggest that, after such a disturbed night, it would be better to
spend another day in our charming retreat.
"That's the way," I answered, "in which effeminacy gets the better of
energy, and cowardice of courage! Let us behave with more boldness, and
not be seduced into delaying our journey."
My companion accepted the reproof, and without further delay our party
were en route.
The stream pointed out to us the road we were to follow; along the edge
of it, sheltered by the bushes and enlivened by the birds which were
fluttering about the banks, we shaped our course. Sumichrast showed us
some dahlias—the flower which would be so perfect if it only possessed a
perfume. It is a perennial in Mexico, whence it has been imported into
Europe, and there grows to a height of about three feet, producing only
single flowers of a pale yellow color. By means of cultivation, varieties
have been obtained with double flowers of a hundred different tints, which
are such ornaments in our gardens. Many a Mexican, who imports dahlias
at a great expense, has not the least idea that the plant is indigenous to his
own soil.
The roots of the dahlia, salted and boiled, are eaten by the Indians; it is a
farinaceous food of a somewhat insipid taste. Certainly, the wild potato is

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not much better; and who can tell whether cultivation, after having enriched
our gardens with its beautiful flowers, may not also furnish our tables with
the bulbs of this plant rendered more succulent by horticulture.
The course of the stream described numerous windings, and the desire of
keeping on its margin frequently diverted us from our direct path; at last it
doubled round short to the left, and I bade farewell to it as if to a friend, but,
nevertheless, preserved a hope that its capricious course would again bring
it back in our path.
Our road now commenced to ascend, sometimes crossing glades or
groves. Suddenly a wide prairie opened out before us, and Sumichrast led
the way through its tall reeds. After a quarter of an hour's walking, our
guide began to sneeze; Lucien followed his example, then came
l'Encuerado's turn, and at last mine, and ultimately Gringalet's. These
repeated salvos were received with shouts of laughter and "God bless you,"
often repeated; but a sharp tingling in the throat and eyes was soon added to
the sneezing.
"I say," cried my friend, "what does this joke mean?"
I looked round me more carefully, and discovered that we were
surrounded with euphorbia plants.
But this mishap soon became a most serious affair, as the sneezing
seemed as if it never would end, and our skin, eyes, and mouth commenced
to burn as if in a fever. On this occasion we did not care even to construct a
hut or light a fire, but were only too glad to lie down on the bare cold
ground, and seek in sleep some respite from our sufferings.
Lucien, although very exhausted, endured his sufferings with such
courage as made me proud of him. Uncomplaining, he soon went off to
sleep; but to myself and companions such a luxury was refused.
At length, almost desperate, I woke up the Indian. Our faces had
continued to swell, but the Mistec, regarding me with a stupefied look,
simply grunted, and turned round to sleep again. However, it became
important that we should have a fire lit to enable us to prepare our coffee: as
for eating, I looked upon it as an impossible matter. With a slowness and
awkwardness which I could not overcome, I succeeded in lighting some dry

Page 215

branches, and at length in making the water boil. I then called my
companions; they drank the refreshing beverage, without showing any sign
that they were conscious of the service I was rendering them, for
immediately afterwards they again went to sleep.
It was at least ten o'clock by the sun when Lucien set us the example of
rising. Suffering as we were, it was no use to think of resuming our journey;
so we made a virtue of necessity, and remained stationary until we felt more
fit to endure fatigue.
In the afternoon, Sumichrast and Lucien complained that they were
famished, which was an excellent symptom; so we took our guns, and,
following in Indian file, ascended the course of the stream.
We met with several pools of water, and then rocks strangely piled on
one another, which had slipped down from the mountains above. I climbed
the bank, feeling disposed to be content with the first game which presented
itself. However, I could see nothing but some toucans, far too wary to get
within gunshot of. At last a squirrel presented itself—a poor pittance for
five hungry stomachs.
Sumichrast, who had gone on in front, suddenly stopped, and signed to
us to be quiet. I glanced down the stream, and, near a hole full of water, I
discovered an agouara, or washer raccoon, squatted down, dipping its paws
into the water, and rubbing them together energetically. L'Encuerado fired;
it gave a bound and fell over. A lizard it was which the animal was washing
before devouring—a peculiar and inexplicable habit to which it owes its
name. It had a gray coat, and a tapering muzzle like that of an opossum.
The agouara (Procyon cancrivorus) is frequently met with in Mexico. It
is closely allied to the Bear family, but is much smaller and more active,
and is both carnivorous and insectivorous. It climbs trees with ease, and,
whenever it takes up its abode near any habitation, makes incessant raids
upon poultry. It is tamed without difficulty, and will run to meet its master,
and seems to value his caresses; yet, like the squirrel, which it resembles in
its vivacity, it will suddenly bite the hand of any one who feeds it. The flesh
of this animal is white, tender, and savory.

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L'Encuerado had dug up
some dahlia roots, which he
baked under the ashes; but
either this food was not exactly
to our taste, or our still irritated
palates could not appreciate its
delicacy.
Night came on, and the sky
was full of gray clouds
violently driven by the wind,
although just round us the trees
remained quite motionless. It
was now too late to construct a
hut, and we all stretched
ourselves, without other
covering than the canopy of
heaven, on beds of dry moss.
I woke up perished with
cold; not a star appeared in the
sky. Of the uneasiness
produced by the euphorbia
"Following in Indian file, we ascended plants, nothing now remained
the course of the stream." but a sense of weight in the
head and a slight inflammation
in the throat. I tried to go to sleep again, and fell at length into a kind of
painful torpor. I fancied I heard birds of prey crying, and a roaring noise in
the recesses of the forest. I got up with a view of driving away this
nightmare; but it was not a dream; the day was just breaking, and the birds
were welcoming its advent with many a clamorous note. A dull roar, like
that of a gale of wind rattling through a forest, resounded louder and louder.
I called Sumichrast and l'Encuerado; the latter at once shouted out in horror

"The torrent!"

Page 217

Seizing Lucien, I carried him in my arms, while the Indian hastily
gathered together all our travelling gear that lay scattered around. With
powerful efforts I soon reached the top of the steep bank, followed by my
companions and Gringalet. Lucien, suddenly disturbed in his sleep, scarcely
had time to know what had happened. A furious uproar perfectly deafened
us, and a flood of yellowish water came rushing by; I saw one of our
coverings float off on its surface, and almost immediately, as if impelled by
some superhuman force, the rocks came rolling down, dashing together
under the force of the liquid avalanche.
One minute more and it would have been all over with us, or, at the very
least, we should have lost all our baggage and weapons, without which our
position must have been truly critical. As it was, our hats only had sailed off
in company with our covering; this loss much vexed us, for none of us
except l'Encuerado could walk with a bare head under the rays of a tropical
sun. We should have been somewhat consoled by meeting with a palm-tree;
but in the mean time, the Mistec, like all his countrymen, knew well how to
meet such an emergency. So we covered our heads with the leaves of the
water-lily, often used by the Indian women for a parasol.
We knew by experience the rapidity with which these mountain torrents
will overflow. If it had been a month later during the rainy period, of course
we should not have exposed ourselves to the peril of camping in the bed of
a stream; for we had remarked the evening before that the sky was obscured
by gray clouds, and this ought to have put us on our guard.
The furious waves continued to bear down with them, without any effort,
immense masses of rock; but the body of the water, which did not increase,
showed us that it would ebb as rapidly as it had swollen. L'Encuerado was
obliged to content himself with some muddy water for making our coffee;
but if we had pretended to preserve all the prejudices of civilized life, adieu
to all our idea of traversing Mexico. Besides this, we had a fresh disaster to
grieve over; the remainder of the raccoon, which we had kept for our
breakfast, had been lost in company with our bag of rice.
We started again, not much enlivened by this series of misfortunes,
satisfied with nibbling for breakfast some morsels of totopo. All our
indisposition had now fortunately vanished, but we could not help feeling

Page 218

some degree of ill-will
against both the euphorbias
and the torrent. A long
march, during which we
several times left and
rejoined the course of the
stream, brought us close to
a hill at the foot of which
was a vast swamp. I gave
the signal for halting.
L'Encuerado in our march
had gathered some reeds,
and set to work to plait us
hats. Leaving him with
Lucien, Sumichrast and I
went off in quest of game.
On our return from an
unproductive ramble, I saw
that my son was already
wearing a funnel-shaped
head covering. L'Encuerado
offered me a similar one,
which, as my friend
remarked, gave me the look
of a Chinese. After having
rested a short time, I
thought about again looking
for game; but the uproar of "The rocks came rolling down, dashing
the torrent seemed to have together under the force of the liquid
frightened away all animal avalanche."
life.
This second ramble quite exhausted us, without producing any prey but a
tanager, far too small to afford food for so many. L'Encuerado and Lucien,
both out in the midst of the swamp, perceived us approaching. The young
gentleman came running towards us, holding his newly-made hat in his
hand; but, in his haste, he forgot that the bed of a marsh is almost always

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slippery, and he fell flat on his face among some aquatic plants. In one leap
the Indian was close to him, and soon picked him up; but, instead of
complaining of his fall, Lucien looked up at the Indian with a troubled face.
The fact was, his hat held some fish he had caught with his insect-net, and
at least a third of them had disappeared from his disaster.
"Oh dear! oh dear!" cried Sumichrast, who could not help smiling at the
piteous face of the young fisherman; "most decidedly, we are all
unfortunate."
This joke was taken in a serious light by l'Encuerado, who smote his
forehead as if suddenly struck by some idea.
"It is the genius of the cave!" he cried. "Ah! the scoundrel, after all he
owes me, and the precautions I took!"
"What precautions?" asked Lucien, surprised.
"I picked up seven white pebbles, and drew out a beautiful cross."
"What did the cross matter to him?"
"Matter to him! why, Chanito, he knows well that we are Christians, and
yet he bewitches us. Wait a bit, I'll match him."
And rearing himself up against the trunk of a tree, standing on his head,
with his legs in the air, l'Encuerado kicked about with all the frenzy of one
possessed. He fell sometimes to the right, and sometimes to the left, but
raised himself after every fall, and resumed his clown-like attitude. Not one
of us could keep a serious countenance while looking at his contortions.
Lucien laughed till he cried, especially because the Indian, as if on purpose
to render the scene more comical, accompanied his gestures with invectives
against the genius of the cave and invocations to St. Joseph.
At last I told him to resume his natural position, and to keep quiet.
"Do you really think that I have done it enough?" he asked, addressing
me with imperturbable gravity.
"Yes," I replied; "from the way in which you have shaken him, I should
say he must have come out either through your mouth or ears."

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"Then it's your turn now, Chanito!"
Lucien, delighted at having to execute this feat of skill, tried several
times to keep his balance while standing on his head; but overcome by
laughter, he was not able, so he fell, to rear himself up again. The more
l'Encuerado cried out to him, urging him to persevere, the louder the boy
laughed. The brave Indian, who was under the full belief that an evil spirit
must necessarily abandon a body placed upside down, seized the legs of his
young master and shook him violently as if he was emptying a sack.
Sumichrast at last put an end to this scene by declaring that he was sure the
spirit must have taken flight. L'Encuerado then came up to my friend and
proposed to assist him into the same position as he had helped Lucien.
"That's enough of it," I
cried as soon as laughing
allowed me to speak; "M.
Sumichrast and I have other
means of expelling evil
spirits."
L'Encuerado looked at me
with wonder, more
convinced than ever that my
power far exceeded that of
the sorcerers of his own
country.
We were now close to our
fire. Lucien was gravely
repeating the words which
l'Encuerado had addressed to
the demon, when Gringalet
commenced howling.
L'Encuerado had seized the
poor animal by his hind legs,
and was violently shaking
"L'Encuerado . . . set to work to plait us him, head downward.
hats."

Page 221

"It's all for your good," said the Indian to the dog. "Can't you understand
that the evil spirit which you have in your body will be certain to make you
commit some folly?"
Lucien rushed to the assistance of his faithful friend, and at last induced
the Mistec to let him go. Not the least convinced of l'Encuerado's kind
intentions towards him, Gringalet seemed to bear malice towards the
Indian, and for three days was very shy of coming near him.
After this scene the preparations for dinner occupied our attention. If our
guns had been more successful, we should have had fat to fry our fish in.
While we were deploring our ill-luck, I noticed a flock of birds like ducks
flying high up in the air; they made a wide circle and settled down on the
top of a tree. L'Encuerado fired at them, and one fell. It was an anhinga, one
of the most singular specimens of web-footed birds that can be found
anywhere. Represent to yourself an enormous duck with a neck like a swan,
a bill straight, tapering, and longer than the head, webbed feet, and widely
spreading and well-feathered wings, and then know the anhinga. It dives
and flies with equal facility, can swim under the water and perch upon trees,
the highest of which it chooses for building its nest upon.
The flesh of the anhinga is not valuable, as it is hard and tough. Perhaps
a good appetite rendered me indulgent, but I found the flavor very much
like that of duck. The fat of this bird, carefully saved, was used for frying
our fish. The latter, I must confess, did not seem to us so nice as the dark-
colored meat of the anhinga. If it tasted rather fishy, the fish themselves
tasted muddy; on the whole, however, our bill-of-fare was a tolerable one.
When night-fall came on, the trees stood out in bold relief against the
transparent sky, and l'Encuerado, delighted at thinking that he was now
unbewitched, gratified us with one of his unpublished canticles, which
materially helped to send us to sleep.

Page 222

Page 223

CHAPTER XIX.
THE BLACK IGUANA.—ANOTHER COUNTRY.—REMINISCENCES OF
CHILDHOOD.—THE MIRAGE.—A FIRE IN THE PLAIN.

By ten o'clock in the morning we had crossed some rising ground, and
were passing through a narrow gorge carpeted with ferns. Lucien headed
the party, closely followed by l'Encuerado; and led us on to a kind of rocky
staircase, down which, in the rainy season, water doubtlessly flowed. This
steep path compelled us to halt several times to recover our breath. The
branches of the bushes formed an archway over our heads, and their
blossoms surrounded us with their rich perfume.
At length a rise in the ground impeded our path, and the heat
commenced to inconvenience us. The refraction of light, especially, affected
our eyes, and our feet raised perfect clouds of dust. Lucien, who had
become quite an enduring walker, throughout kept in front, and often gained
ground while we were stopping to take breath. Just as we reached the ridge
of the hill, I saw the boy, who was a few yards in advance, suddenly cock
his gun and fire. I ran to him, but he disappeared down the slope, crying out
to me that he had shot a dragon!
I soon came up, and found the young sportsman standing in front of a
magnificent black iguana—Cyclura acanthura—which does, in fact,
somewhat resemble the supposed appearance of the fabulous animal
described by the ancients. Its skin shone with a silvery-gray metallic glitter,
more particularly on the dorsal ridge. L'Encuerado joined us when it was
dying, when, rubbing his hands, he cried:
"It is a guachi-chevé; what a splendid supper we shall have!"
"You have seen them before, then?"
"It is an animal which belongs to my country, Chanito; it abounds in the
plains which slope down to the Pacific Ocean. They are beasts which can
live without eating; they are sometimes kept for two months with their feet
tied and their mouth sewn up."

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"The mouth sewn up?"
"Yes, Chanito, so as to prevent them getting lean. When I was your age,
during the time of Lent, I used to go iguana hunting with my brothers. We
sought them in the shallow marshes which are inundated by water during
flood-time. There, in hollow trunks of trees, or in holes made in the mud,
we found the black iguanas, and pulled them out by their tails."
"Then they don't bite?"
"Oh yes, they do, and scratch also; so we took care to catch hold of them
by the neck, and tie both their feet and their jaws. Sometimes we used to
pursue them up the trees; but then, for they don't mind falling twenty or
thirty feet, they frequently escaped."
Sumichrast completed this
information by telling the
young naturalist that the
iguana, which is allied to the
lizards, is generally a yard in
length; and that the female
lays thirty to forty eggs, which
are much esteemed by the
native epicures; also that the
green species—Iguana
rhinolopha—has a flat, thin
tail, and swims much better
than the black variety, the tail
of which, being covered with
spines, is not well adapted for
progression through water.
Thus, meeting with a green
iguana almost always indicates
the vicinity of a stream; but
the black species is frequently
found away from rivers.
Lucien wanted at first to
carry his game, but he was "I used to go iguana hunting with my

Page 225

overtaxed by its weight and brothers."
gave it up to l'Encuerado.
Another hill was now before us, and the ground became at every step more
and more barren, and on which there was little or nothing growing but a few
shrubs with a bluish flower. When we had reached the summit of this
second ridge, a boundless plain lay spread out before our gaze; we were
now on the central plateau of Mexico, in the Terre-Froide, eight thousand
seven hundred feet above the level of the sea.
What a change there was! The white soil was so light and dry that it was
carried away by the breeze, and produced nothing but a few leafless trees.
There were also some thorny bushes smothered in sand, and, a little farther
on, some gigantic cacti astonished us with their strange shapes. The sun,
reflected by the red glaring surface, much interfered with our sight, so we
directed our steps to the right, where there appeared to be a greater amount
of shade.
"Oh, what a wretched country!" cried Lucien. "Can we be still in
Mexico?"
"Yes," replied I; "but we are now on the great plateau, almost on a level
with the city of Mexico and Puebla."
"Are we going to cross that great plain? I can see neither birds nor beasts
on it; in fact, one might almost fancy the very trees were thirsty."
"You are right, for it does not often rain here. Nevertheless, this ground,
which at first sight appears so barren, is very fruitful when cultivated. It
produces wheat, barley, potatoes, apples, pears, cherries, grapes, peaches,
and, in short, all the European fruits, which can only grow in a temperate
zone. On this plateau, too, grows the Maguey agave, Mexicana, a wonderful
plant, which is as useful to the Mexicans as the cocoa-nut tree is to the
inhabitants of the lands to which it is indigenous."
L'Encuerado had stooped down under a pepper-tree, and his glance
wandered over the scene. The fact was, that we were now about the same
height as that at which his own country is situated, and he might easily
fancy himself near his native village.
"What are you thinking of?" said I, tapping him on the shoulder.

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"Oh Tatita! why did you disturb me? Here I feel myself almost as
learned as you, and I could tell you all the names of those flowers which
turn their bright faces towards me as if they knew me! It seems as if I had
often walked on that plain, and as if I had often seen these trees, bushes,
and plants— You are laughing at me, Chanito; it's all very well, but you'll
see! Tatita will set me right if I tell you any thing that is not true. Look here,
for instance," continued the Indian, rising up and plucking a plant with
slender and whitish stems; "this is the alfilerillo, which mothers give their
children to cure them of sore throats. Such shrubs are lost here; for their
fruit would be useful in my country. Here too, Chanito, is a mizquitl, a
thorny tree on which we shall be certain to find some gum. Indeed, here are
three morsels of it. You may safely suck it; it will not seem very nice at
first, but you will soon like it. Oh Tatita! you have really brought me back
into my own country."
"We are certainly on the same line, and it is not to be wondered at that
you find here the same kind of vegetation as in that in which you spent your
childhood."
The Indian was silent, and seemed musing. Sumichrast and I observed
him with some curiosity, and Lucien, surprised at his emotion, looked at
him anxiously.
"Here is the 'angel-plant,'" resumed l'Encuerado, suddenly. "How pleased
my mother used to be when I found one of them."
"What are its good properties?" I asked.
"Oh! it produces beautiful dreams, which seem to lift you to heaven."
The Indian again became pensive, sometimes casting a glance over the
vast prospect, and sometimes pulling up pieces of the turf which grew at his
feet.
"It only needs a palm-tree to make the landscape quite complete," said
he, thoughtfully.
In a minute or so he advanced towards the bushes, and, kneeling down,
plucked a tuft of yellow marigold, which are called in this country "the dead
man's flower." Afterwards I heard him sobbing.

Page 227

"Oh Chéma! what is the matter?" cried Lucien, running up to his friend.
The Indian raised himself and took the boy in his arms.
"Once I had a mother, brothers, and a country," he said, sadly; "and this
flower reminds me that all those are now sleeping in the grave."
"Then you don't love me?" replied Lucien, embracing him.
The only answer l'Encuerado made was pressing the boy so tightly
against his breast as to draw from him a slight cry.
This scene quite affected us, and I and my friend, side by side, walked
back to the hut deeply sunk in thought.
Hunger soon brought with it more commonplace ideas. The white and
juicy flesh of the iguana was quite a feast for us all. Our meal we sat over a
longer time than usual; for in conversation we entered upon the subject of
our native countries, and the theme appeared inexhaustible. I reminded my
friend that, only a few days before, he had shown as much emotion as the
Indian on seeing two butterflies which he fancied belonged to a Swiss
species; and I brought forward these feelings to oppose the intention he so
often expressed of taking up his abode in the midst of the wilderness, so as
to live and die in solitude.
On the great plateau the sun shines rather later than in the lower regions.
As the luminary approached the earth, the sky was lighted up with a purple
color, and I saw standing out on our left in bold relief the jagged outline of
the Cordilleras of l'Encuerado's country. The whitish ground gradually
assumed a transparent appearance; our eyes deceived us to such an extent
that we fancied we saw an immense tract of water, above which the trees,
appearing as if they were submerged, raised their green heads.
The moon rose, and, far from destroying the mirage, it rendered the
illusion still more striking. I resolved to descend from the hill in order to
convince Lucien how much our vision was deceived.
"There is no mistake about the plain being dry," said he, as we returned
to the bivouac, "and yet one might fancy that, as we were mounting the hill,
the water was rising behind us."

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"The layers of the air," I
replied, "are unequally
warmed, and their refraction,
which causes the rays of light
to deviate in their course,
reverses the objects which
cover the plain, and, on the
other hand, causes them to
appear more elevated than
they really are."
"So we see water in a
place where in reality there is
none."
"You don't take the sky
into account, which is
reflected on the ground
beneath us as in a mirror. But
the air is becoming cooler,
and you will soon see the
phenomenon slowly
disappear, as if some
"The moon rose, . . . and rendered the invisible hand was pushing
illusion more striking." the mist back towards the
horizon."
While we were looking down over the plateau, and watching the mirage
gradually fade away, a distant light suddenly shone out. Loud exclamations
hailed the sight of this unknown bivouac; and, fixing our eyes on it, we all
formed endless conjectures. We had not expected to meet with any
habitation before the next day; and the cry of "land!" on board ship after a
long voyage could not have made a stronger impression than the sight of
this fire. The air was cool; still l'Encuerado was not allowed to kindle a
light, which would perhaps have betrayed us to foes. It was now twenty
days since we had met with a human being, and our first feeling, after the
instinctive joy at the idea of seeing our fellow-creatures, was, alas! one of
distrust.

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Page 230

CHAPTER XX.
THE MORNING AND NIGHT DEW.—THE TERRE-FROIDE.—WATER-
SPOUTS AND WHIRLWINDS.—THE BARBARY FIG-TREES.—THE
CACTUS-PLANTS.—THE VIZNAGA.—OUR HOPES DISAPPOINTED.—
DON BENITO COYOTEPEC.

The sun had not risen when we were up and ready to start. We shivered
with cold, for on the great plateau which we had now reached, to which the
inhabitants of the lower regions give the name of Terre-Froide, the
mornings are frosty. The profound darkness was succeeded by a dim
twilight, afterwards by a fog, which penetrated our clothing as much as rain.
"There has been no shower," cried Lucien, "and yet we are all wet."
"It is the dew, Chanito; it is almost as abundant as the night dews in the
Terre-Chaude."
"Are not morning and night dews the same thing?"
"Not exactly," I replied; "the morning dew is generally of a beneficial
nature; but the Mexicans dread the other, which falls after sunset, and is
said to be productive of fever."
"But from whence does all this moisture come?"
"From the air, which always contains a certain quantity, some of which it
deposits on the ground, on stones and plants, as they become cool by
radiation."
Just at this moment our attention was attracted by the first ray of the sun,
which, piercing through a light cloud, shot across the plain like a bright
arrow. The horizon, which had been visible, was now obscured by a mist,
which gradually rolled towards us. By degrees, however, it drew off, and
the trees a short distance away showed their rounded tops; while wide
breaks opened here and there in the semi-transparent veil, and vanished as
quickly as they had arisen.

Page 231

The telescope was passed from hand to hand, and each tried to discover
if there was a hut where the glimmering fire had been descried the night
before. The search was in vain; the reflection of the sun's rays quite dazzled
us, and restricted the prospect; but, once in the right course, we might
advance without fear of missing our point, and, according to our
calculations, we would meet with habitations the next day or the following.
Gringalet's tongue hung out of his mouth; he found the journey over the
nitrous soil very irksome, and the scanty leaves of the mimosa failed to
screen him from the sun. What a contrast it was to the pleasant regions we
had hitherto travelled through!
"Your country, after all, is not so nice a one as mine," said Lucien,
addressing l'Encuerado.
"My real native country is much more beautiful than that we are now in,
Chanito; in the first place, it has mountains and woods, and there it
sometimes rains."
"Shall we see any snow fall, now that we are in the Terre-Froide?"
"No," replied Sumichrast, smiling; "you will not see any snow before
next year, when you will be in France. The winters of the Mexican Terre-
Froide are like our European springs. It is, however, never warm enough to
allow tropical fruit to ripen; but the Terre-Froide only deserves its name
when it is compared with the Terre-Chaude and the Terre-Tempérée."
"It seems to me to have been very badly named, for it is as hot now as
the day when the south wind blew so strongly. Gringalet looks as if he was
of my opinion, for he lolls his tongue out much more than usual."
"Upon my word!" cried Sumichrast, "Master Sunbeam's remark shows
that he is a first-class observer. You are as right as you can be," continued
he, placing his hand on the boy's shoulder. "In the plains of the Terre-Froide
the heat is much more uncomfortable than in the Terre-Chaude itself, where
an insensible perspiration always mitigates the oppressive rays of the sun. A
few days' walking in this atmosphere will do more in bronzing our skins
than all the rest of the journey."

Page 232

My companion suddenly stopped short, and pointed to the horizon with
his finger.
"That's smoke," cried Lucien.
"No, Chanito," replied l'Encuerado, "it is a tornado."
Seeing a slender column of dust rising up to the clouds, I had, at first
sight, formed the same idea as my son. It was, in fact, nothing but a
whirlwind of dust, which disappeared soon afterwards.
"There is no wind," observed Lucien; "how is it that the dust rises so
high?"
"There is every cause for
wonder," I replied, "for no
savant has yet explained the
real cause of this
phenomenon."
"If we happened to be
caught in one of these
whirlwinds would it carry us
away?"
"No, Chanito," replied the
Indian, "it would be content
with throwing us down."
"Then you've had some
experience of them?"
"Yes; when I used to play
with the children in our
village, and a tornado came
within reach, we were always
delighted to run through it."

"The sand rose rapidly, whirling round About a hundred paces
and round." from us, although there was
not the slightest breeze in the

Page 233

air, the sand rose rapidly, whirling round and round. The rotation did not
extend over a space of more than a few feet. There was no apparent cause
for it, and the phenomenon ceased as unaccountably as it commenced.
Lucien was of course dying with anxiety to run through one of these
tornadoes; but all that we saw were quite beyond reach.
"I think," said Sumichrast, addressing me, "when it is thoroughly studied
on the great plains of Mexico, we shall be able to explain the cause of this
phenomenon. In a general point of view, these whirlwinds are nothing but
water-spouts in miniature."
"A water-spout!" asked Lucien; "what is that?"
"It is a natural phenomenon very like what you have just witnessed; but
it is of a far more formidable character, for it destroys every thing it comes
in contact with!"
"Did you ever see one, papa?"
"Only once, at sea. The English steamer on which I had embarked had
just left the port of St. Thomas, in the West Indies, and we were still
coasting the island; there was but a slight breeze blowing, the sky was clear,
and the water rippled with miniature waves, when, all of a sudden, a large
tract of the sea ahead of us was violently agitated. An enormous column of
water rapidly rose, and formed something like a dark and terrible-looking
column. After about a quarter of an hour, the fearful phenomenon, which
fortunately had kept on moving before us, remained stationary. The volume,
incessantly swelling, assumed a dark-blue shade, while the column of water,
which appeared to feed a cloud, was of a gray color. A dull roaring noise
like that of distant thunder suddenly occurred. The column broke in the
middle, and the greater portion of the liquid fell into the sea with a
tremendous shock; but the upper portion sprinkled us with a heavy shower.
Half an hour afterwards we were sailing under a cloudless sky and over an
unruffled ocean."
"And what would have happened if the water-spout had reached the
ship?"
"We should most likely have been swamped."

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"How dreadfully frightened you must have been, Tatita!"
"Yes, of course; and I was not the only one who was in terror; for the
officers and sailors watched the course of the water-spout with evident
anxiety."
Chatting in this way, we were now penetrating among Indian fig-trees—
Cactus opuntia—commonly called prickly-pear trees. These plants, covered
with yellow flowers, would, a month later, have been hailed with shouts of
joy, for each of their upper stems would then bear one of those juicy fruits
of which the Creoles are so fond. Lucien stopped in front of two or three of
these plants, the dimensions of which were well calculated to surprise him.
Sumichrast availed himself of this inspection to tell him that the cactus, a
word derived from the Greek, and meaning thorny, is a native of America,
and that it grows spontaneously in dry and sandy soil.
"You have forgotten to tell him," added l'Encuerado, "that the tender
shoots of the tunero, baked under the ashes, will furnish us this evening
with a most delicious dish."
A little farther on, the prickly pears were succeeded by another species
called the Cierge (the Cactus cereus of savants). Several of these plants
were growing with a single stem, and measured from ten to twelve feet in
height, looking like telegraph poles; others had two or three shoots
springing from them, which made them look still more singular. A third
species, creeping over the ground, added much to the difficulty of our
walking, and obliged us very often to take long strides to avoid them. In
spite of all the care we could take, we scratched our limbs several times
against their sharp spines.
I again took the lead—for there was not room between the cierges to
walk abreast—and, climbing up a small hillock, surveyed a wide prospect.
Such a complete change could not possibly have taken place in so short a
time in any other country. More trees, more shrubs, more bushes!
Everywhere the cactus might be seen assuming twenty different shapes—
round, straight, conical, or flattened, and really seeming as if it delighted in
assuming appearances so fantastic as almost to defy description. Here and
there the cierges, standing side by side, seemed to vie with each other in
height, sometimes attaining to as much as twenty to thirty feet, while the

Page 235

young shoots resembled a
palisade, or one of those
impenetrable hedges with
which the Indians who live on
the plateau surround their
dwellings. Farther on, there
were vast vegetable masses of
a spherical shape, covered
with rose-colored, horny, and
transparent thorns, which
displayed across our path all
their huge rotundity, really
exhibiting nothing vegetable
to the eye but their color. Here
and there, too, some creeping
species, with their branches
full of thorns, formed a perfect
thicket; one might almost have
fancied that they were a
hundred-headed hydra.
"We might almost imagine
we were in a hot-house full of
rich-growing plants and "Everywhere the cactus might be seen
golden-colored flowers," said assuming twenty different shapes."
Sumichrast to me.
"Yes," I replied; "but we must also imagine that we are looking at them
through the lens of a microscope. What would a Parisian say if he saw this
viznaga?"
The plant I was pointing to was at least six feet in height and three times
that in circumference.
"When I was a shepherd," said l'Encuerado, "I led my goats into one of
the plains where the viznagas grow. With my machete I made a cut into one
side of the plant, and my goats immediately began to eat the pith with
which it was filled. Gradually they hollowed out a hole large enough for

Page 236

two or three of them to enter at once, and this make-shift hut afforded me a
first-rate shelter against the rays of the sun and the night breezes."
"Oh!" cried Lucien, with enthusiasm, "if we have to camp in these fields,
we must have such a house."
I again examined the landscape round us. There was nothing whatever
which betrayed the vicinity of man. Everywhere the cacti spread out their
variously-shaped flowers, which were nearly all yellowish or pink. Above
us was a fiery sky, in which nothing seemed to move but a few vultures; on
the ground there were hundreds of lizards in constant motion.
The Indian led the way, followed by Lucien.
"A footpath!" the boy suddenly cried out.
"A mimosa!" exclaimed Sumichrast, whose great height towered over us
all.
"A hut!" murmured l'Encuerado, stopping and holding his finger to his
lips.
We looked at each other; then, bending our steps towards the spot
pointed out by our companion, we each inspected the thatched roof, of
which only the top was visible.
With a rapid glance at my weapons I advanced carefully, followed by
Sumichrast. Lucien, l'Encuerado, and Gringalet brought up the rear.
We really felt some degree of emotion; the idea of seeing any human
beings but ourselves quite made our hearts beat; for were we going to meet
enemies or friends? This was the important question to be decided.
The path soon became wider; we were now scarcely two hundred paces
from the hut, and we were astonished not to hear the barking of dogs, which
generally prowl round an Indian's dwelling. Sumichrast, who was now in
front, came back.
"This silence seems to me a bad omen," he said; "take care we don't fall
into some ambuscade; I don't at all wish to be robbed, or, worse still,
murdered."

Page 237

Leaving the path to our left, we made our way among the cacti.
"Are we in a savage country?" asked Lucien.
"Possibly, and that is why we have to be so careful," I answered.
"Do you think any one will hurt us?"
"The mere sight of our weapons might inspire the Indians with a desire
of obtaining them; in a spot where every one can do as he likes, there is
nothing to prevent them stripping us and sending us away naked."
"They are not Christians, then?"
"Ah, Chanito, they ought to be," muttered the Indian.
And, taking off his load, we soon lost sight of him among the under-
brush.
Under any other circumstances, Lucien's frightened look, when he saw
us take so many precautions in approaching a human dwelling, would have
amused; but, so far from doing so now, we listened anxiously for the least
sound.
At last we heard l'Encuerado's loud and welcome "Hiou! hiou!" The hut
was perfectly empty.
After an hour's rest, passed by the boy in rambling round it, I gave the
word for starting again. The Indian took the lead, following the still visible
traces of a footpath. The hut, hardly large enough to hold three persons,
seemed more like a temporary shelter than a settled dwelling; l'Encuerado,
who was a great authority in such matters, was of opinion that it was only
an offshoot to a larger settlement. After a tolerably long walk, another
footpath crossed the one we were following; on its surface we noticed prints
of naked feet—even those of women and children. But although we
carefully examined the horizon, nothing but the immense white
uninterrupted plain bathed in sunshine greeted our vision.
This prospect somewhat damped our ardor. Ever since the morning, we
had been walking on in the hopes of meeting with a human dwelling. We
had scarcely eaten any thing, and hunger and thirst were added to the

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disappointment we had met with. Lucien proposed to hollow out a viznaga
to sleep in—a project in which he was encouraged by l'Encuerado's telling
him that we might have the luxury of a window, and could keep off wild
beasts by filling up the entrance with thorny cierges. It may readily be
understood how much the idea of bivouacking inside a plant pleased the
fancy of our young companion; and perhaps we should have assisted in
realizing his wish, if the barking of a dog had not attracted our attention; so
we recommenced our march in better spirits. A rapid descent brought us
near a number of tree-ferns, a change of vegetation which we looked upon
as a good omen. L'Encuerado continued to follow the footpath, until he
suddenly stopped on a gentle eminence, which overlooked a small green
valley with a brook running through it. To my great joy I counted as many
as six palm-leaf huts.
The sight refreshed us so marvellously, that we all descended with rapid,
long strides. Every now and then either a cock crowing, a turkey gobbling,
or a dog barking, came as music to our ears, and I can hardly describe what
pleasant feelings these familiar noises produced. As we went on, the bushes
on each side of the path screened our view of the huts. The neigh of a horse
attracted our attention, and a man, mounted bare-backed, made his
appearance about a hundred paces from us.
"Halt!" I cried to my companions.
With my gun hung to my cross-belt, and my hat in hand, I advanced
alone towards the rider, who had suddenly reined in his steed.
"Ave Maria!" said I, going up to him.
"Her holy name be blessed!" answered the horseman, raising his cap,
from which several locks of white hair escaped.
"Do you speak Spanish, venerable father?"
"Yes, a little."
"Are you the chief of the village?"
"What do you want?"
"We require water and a roof to shelter us."

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"You are not alone, I see; from whom do you come?"
"We are nothing but travellers wandering through the forests to seek for
plants and animals with healing properties."
"But you are armed?"
"Well, we have a child to protect, and the brutes of the forest are fierce."
"Are you speaking the truth?"
I then called Lucien, who doffed his hat to the old man and saluted him.
"Child, may God bless you!"
"Are we to consider ourselves your guests?"
"Yes, you are the guests of Coyotepec; come along with me."
Sumichrast and l'Encuerado also approached the horseman, who
dismounted and then led the way. The latter conversed with the Indian in
the Mistec tongue, an idiom which Lucien alone could understand, he
having been taught it by l'Encuerado. From the way in which the old man
scanned us, I imagined that l'Encuerado had represented us to him as white
sorcerers of no ordinary skill.
Coyotepec—or "Stone Wolf"—might have been about seventy years of
age. He was born in this ravine, to which he had given the name of the
"Mountain's Mouth," though I am ignorant of the reason for the designation.
He had been taken, when very young, by one of his uncles to Puebla, but he
had soon left the city with the intention of rebuilding the paternal hut, and
of knowing nothing of the world beyond his own domain. His six children
were all married and lived near him, and the little colony numbered as
many as thirty individuals. He was an Indian of the Tlascalan race, as robust
and nimble as a man of forty, of middle height, with a brown skin. He wore
a hat made of palm-tree straw, and was dressed in a white woollen jacket,
fastened in round the waist like a blouse; cotton drawers, scarcely covering
his knees, completed his costume.
"What is the nearest town to this?" asked Sumichrast.

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"Puebla," was the answer.
"How far off is it?"
"About eight days' journey."
As the usual day's journey of the Indian is ten leagues a day, the distance
must have been about eighty leagues.
The old man could not furnish us with any other geographical
information; he had heard the names of Orizava and Tehuacan, but never
having visited these towns, he knew nothing of the distance we were from
them. For forty years, with the exception of the relations of his sons and
daughters-in-law, who paid him a visit annually, we were the first persons
who had disturbed his solitude. We availed ourselves of the trunk of a tree
to cross the brook, when our guide soon stopped in front of a hut. Four
naked children, the eldest of whom might have been ten years old,
inspected us with comical curiosity. They had never before seen a white
man, and although we were dreadfully bronzed, their surprise was very
great. A young woman, whose clothing consisted of a piece of cloth folded
round her hips, saluted us in broken Spanish, and bid us welcome. The old
man introduced us to his eldest son, named Torribio, a man about forty
years of age. His clothing was not quite so primitive as that of his father,
but consisted of slashed trowsers ornamented with silver buttons, a cotton
shirt, and a felt hat covered with varnished leather. The little colony
employed themselves in collecting cochineal, which Torribio carried to
Puebla for sale, and this fact accounted for his more civilized costume. At
length the old man asked us to come into his hut, round which a large part
of his family were assembling. He called his wife, who was a little old
woman, dressed in a long cotton gown; then he addressed us, pointing to his
children and grandchildren, and said:
"You are my guests; my house is at your disposal, and all my relatives
are your servants."

Page 241

Page 242

CHAPTER XXI.
BLACK SKINS AND WHITE SKINS.—WE HAVE TO TURN
CARPENTERS.—L'ENCUERADO CHANTING AND PREACHING.—THE
PALM-LEAVES.—VEGETABLE BUTTER TREE.

The dwelling so generously put at our disposal was a large shed, divided
into three rooms by bamboo partitions; mats, spread out on the ground,
formed our beds, and the remainder of the furniture consisted of nothing but
two benches. L'Encuerado swept out one of the rooms, and, collecting some
dry palm-leaves, made us a softer resting-place than we had slept on for the
last twenty days. A troop of children—of both sexes, and perfectly naked—
formed a circle round us, and watched our movements with surprise. I
omitted to mention about half a dozen dogs, who were at first perfectly
furious at Gringalet's appearance, but afterwards contented themselves with
growling whenever the intruder came near.
When our baggage had been deposited in the shed, I went and sat down
a few paces from the hut, on a mound overlooking the brook. Sumichrast
soon joined me. Gradually the sun went down, while the children,
previously playing about, went to dip themselves in the beautifully
transparent water. I told Lucien, who was dying to imitate them, to follow
their example. He had hardly taken off his shirt, when the young Indians,
who had watched him undress with evident curiosity, burst out laughing,
and chattered together like so many young paroquets.
"Why do they laugh so when they look at me?" asked Lucien of
l'Encuerado.
"Of course, because of your white skin; what else should it be? They
have never seen a human being of that color before."
"They think it so very ridiculous?" interposed Sumichrast.
"Yes, rather," replied the Indian; "but you must not mind it, Chanito; for,
after all, it is not your fault."

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We and the young Indians now laughed in concert; and this incident led
on to a long conversation between Sumichrast and me. L'Encuerado, who,
we had imagined, envied us our white skins, pitied us, in fact; as no doubt
he would himself have been pitied by Nubians, because he was only
copper-colored.
"Why," said Lucien, who came up to us just as the discussion began, "are
not all men the same color? What is the reason of it, M. Sumichrast?"
"It is owing to the influence of the sun, which more or less colors the
pigment of the skin."
"The pigment?"
"Yes; a brown matter which exists under the skin, and gives to it a shade
more or less dark."
"Then Europeans have no pigment?"
"Yes, they have, just like all other races of men; only this matter does not
affect the whole of their bodies. The brown spots which cover the face and
hands of some people are produced by the pigment making its way through
the epidermis."
"Then," replied Lucien, "negroes would become white if they lived in
Europe."
"No," I answered, smiling; "the sun shines in Europe as well as in
America, and however weak its action may be, it is sufficient to blacken the
pigment."
"But if they always lived in the shade?" cried l'Encuerado.
"It would have to be perfect darkness, a thing which it is quite
impossible to procure."
At this moment our host called us. On a rickety table, covered with a
small cotton cloth, a bowl of thin soup, with tortilla and tomatoes, was
smoking, and we all did full justice to our fare. This dish was followed by a
fowl seasoned with pimento sauce and black beans fried in fat; then some
camotes (Convolvulus batatas) displayed the bright colors of their mealy

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interior, in the midst of a sirup with which l'Encuerado and Lucien regaled
themselves. A large bowl of coffee put the finishing stroke to our
satisfaction. Instead of bread, we ate some freshly made maize-cakes. Never
had any dinner appeared so delicious to us as this, for we had begun to get
rather tired of game, which had formed our principal food since we left
home.
When the meal was over, Lucien ran back to join the children, who,
seated on the bank of the stream, were plaiting palm-leaves together. One of
them was very successful in making a grasshopper, and the boys, delighted
with the praises of their guest, vied with one another in their inventions.
They presented him with a bull, a fowl, a basket, and other articles, which
were very curious, considering the material used and the skill of
workmanship exhibited.
Lucien, perfectly enchanted with these presents, and finding that our
admiration hardly equalled his own, turned to l'Encuerado, who criticised
the articles submitted to him with an artistic eye:
"Then you, too, know how to weave palm-leaves?"
"Yes, Chanito, I can make grasshoppers, horses, and even birds."
"Only fancy! and yet you have never made any for me!"
"You are mistaken in that; when you were quite a little child I filled your
cradle with them. But as they seem to amuse you, I will teach you to weave
them for yourself."
At dark the children disappeared, and our host came to wish us good-
night. I told him of the light we had caught a glimpse of the evening before.
"It was Juan," he said.
"And who is Juan?"
"The eldest of my grandchildren. He is watching a flock of goats in the
plain which belong to us."
The voice of the old man woke me next morning, and I got up at the
same time as Sumichrast, who was still in a semi-torpid state from having

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slept so well. Lucien and l'Encuerado, who had risen earlier, had already
explored the ravine, led by the youngest of the children; for the elder ones
worked, according to their several abilities, at collecting wood or
cultivating the fields.
Our first care was to unpack the insects and bird-skins we had collected,
and the whole colony now surrounded us and asked us innumerable
questions. To our great disappointment, we found we could only retain the
most remarkable of our "treasures." Hitherto, the bird-skins had taken the
place in the basket of the provisions we had eaten; but, after making an
inventory, I came to the conclusion that, when our provisions were
renewed, it would be perfectly impossible for l'Encuerado to travel with
such an increased load. So we were compelled to reject many of the
specimens, though not without regret. Suddenly the idea struck me of
questioning Coyotepec about his son's annual journey to Puebla.
"He will start in fifteen days," answered the old man.
"Will he go alone?"
"No; he takes with him three of our biggest lads and six donkeys."
"And are the donkeys laden?"
"Yes; but the boys start without any burden."
In an hour's time (an Indian never decides any thing without much
consideration) I arranged with my host that he should transport to Puebla
two cases in which I could pack my valuables.
Such a piece of good luck made us feel quite jolly; for by this means we
were enabled to preserve the whole of our collections, instead of throwing
many of them away, as had often before happened.
We were now in want of cases, and Coyotepec had neither saw, hammer,
nor nails; but he gave me some rough boards, on which we all set to work.
L'Encuerado and Sumichrast smoothed the planks with the help of two
woodman's hatchets, while I cut pegs, all laboring without intermission
until the next evening. A little before sunset we had succeeded in making

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two large and tolerably light boxes, a task which, without proper tools, was
more difficult than any one could suppose who had not undertaken it.
Sunday, which was Whitsunday, found us quite amazed at our
performance. L'Encuerado had succeeded in weaving some mats to cover
the cases, and preserve their contents from the damp. About eleven o'clock
our host's family assembled in front of the hut; the women and young girls
were dressed in red or blue petticoats, with their shoulders covered with
embroidered cotton chemisettes: and the younger boys were clothed in a
sort of blouse without sleeves. The grandmother was the last to make her
appearance, and she had a necklace of very valuable pearls round her neck.
The women wore ornaments made of bits of rough coral, and their fingers
were loaded with silver rings.
"We always assemble together on Sunday at the hour for mass, to say
our prayers together," said Coyotepec to me, "and to thank God who covers
the trees with fruit, and preserves us in good health."
"We are Christians the same as you," I answered gravely.
Then every one knelt down, and the old man recited the Litanies and a
succession of Ave Marias. After this one of the young girls chanted a
canticle, assisted by the others, who joined in. The singer had scarcely
finished her hymn, when l'Encuerado, perfectly electrified, entreated the
audience not to move, and at once struck up one of his favorite chants. He
kept us at least half an hour in the burning sun, till, being tired of kneeling, I
made signs to him to leave off. But it was lost labor, for my servant
pretended not to perceive me, and only multiplied his gestures and cries,
repeating the same verse three times running.
"Amen!" at last I cried, in a loud voice, getting up.
Every one followed my example; so, being at last set at liberty, I went
away, while the Indians surrounded l'Encuerado to congratulate him.
I had not yet paid a visit to the ravine, which, situated as it was in the
midst of the Terre-Froide, yielded the same kind of productions as the
Terre-Chaude. I called Sumichrast and Lucien, and, under the guidance of
Torribio, the Indian who every year drove the donkeys to Puebla, we
ascended the course of the stream.

Page 247

Our guide first led us to his hut, surrounded by Bourbon palms. This
beautiful tree, belonging to the palm family, has a strange and yet an
agreeable appearance. From its very summit long stalks shoot out, at the
end of which hangs a wide leaf, which is first folded, and afterwards
spreads out like a fan ornamented with points. The Indians cut up these
leaves to weave the mats, called pétates, which form an article of such
extensive commerce in Mexico. They are also used for making baskets,
brooms, bellows, and many other household utensils.
Torribio's cabin consisted of but one room, and the fire-hearth was
placed outside under a small shed. This primitive abode contained neither
chairs, tables, nor benches. Sumichrast was full of admiration at this
simplicity, which I considered rather overdone; but my friend compared the
life of civilization, in which luxury has created so many wants, with the lot
of these men who can dispense with almost every thing, and decidedly
came to the conclusion that the latter are much the happier.
On leaving the hut, I noticed to our left a magnificent avocado pear-tree
—Persea gratissima—the fruit of which yields a pulp called "vegetable
butter." The avocado pear, called by the Indians ahuacate, is the same shape
as a large pear, with interior of a light-green color and of a buttery nature;
its sweet flavor is delicious to every palate. It is either eaten plain, or
seasoned with salt, oil, and vinegar.
"The avocado pear-tree, I should think, has no relations among trees!"
said Lucien, smiling.
"Yes, certainly it has. It belongs to the Laurel family, and is the only
member of it which produces eatable fruit. Its connections, though, occupy
an important position in domestic economy. First, there is the bay-tree—
Laurus nobilis—the leaves of which are indispensable in French cookery;
while the berries furnish an oil used in medicine. Next comes the Laurus
camphora, from the leaves of which camphor is extracted, the crystallized
essence which evaporates so easily; then the Laurus cinnamomum, the bark
of which is called cinnamon; and, lastly, sassafras, the aromatic wood
which is said to be a powerful sudorific."
Our guide conducted us across a field of Indian corn or maize. Europe is
indebted to America for this valuable gramineous plant. The common bread

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or tortilla of this country, which is a kind of pancake, is made from it.
Before the maize is quite ripe, it is eaten boiled or parched; in fact,
generally throughout America, it is used instead of barley or oats for
feeding horses and cattle.
As soon as Torribio entered his own plantation, he bent down a few
twigs of the masorcas without dividing them from the stem.
"Why do you bend those poor plants like that? Won't they die?" cried
Lucien.
"Yes; in the first place, because they are annuals, and our guide only
hastened their death a few days; besides, the ears he cut are ripe, and will
dry hanging to the stems which have nourished them. This method is as
simple as it is expeditious, but could only be put into practice in countries
where winter is nothing but a spring."
Behind the maize-field there was a hedge covered with long filaments of
a golden-yellow color. These filaments, which were entirely devoid of
leaves, grew all over the shrubs almost like a thick cloak.
"What is the name of this wonderful plant?" asked Lucien.
"It is the sacatlascale," answered Torribio.
"It is a sort of dodder," added Sumichrast, "a plant of the Convolvulus
family. The European species is destroyed, because it twines round certain
vegetables and chokes them. Here, however, the sacatlascale is allowed to
grow, because some use has been found for it."
"What could be made of these stalks, which are so delicate that they
break if I merely touch them?"
"They are first bruised, and then dried in the sun," replied Torribio.
"When they want to dye a black or yellow hue, all they have to do is to boil
the paste in iron, or mix it with alum."
While we were climbing the banks of the ravine, Lucien availed himself
of such a good opportunity by smearing his hands all over with this bright
yellow substance. When we reached a certain height, we lay down on the
grass. With one glance we could take in the whole of this small oasis. The

Page 249

stream meandered along, shaded with green trees; here and there, among
clumps of Bourbon palms, we could discern huts irregularly dotted about. I
turned my eyes towards our host's threshold, and, through my glass,
perceived l'Encuerado, who was still preaching. He had evidently left off
chanting, for his hearers were seated round him on the ground.
Lucien took possession of the telescope, and I noticed that Torribio also
seemed very anxious to try the instrument. I told the boy to lend it to him.
Our guide, seeing trees brought so close to him, could not at first account
for this optical effect. I then directed the glass so that he could see the group
of Indians, and I never saw any human face manifest such complete
surprise. The Indian, who appeared perfectly charmed, could not long
maintain his gravity. Every time he succeeded in discovering a hut, he
hardly gave himself time to look at it, but rolled on the ground bursting with
laughter. Two or three times I put out my hand to take back the telescope,
but Torribio hugged it to his breast, just like a child when any one attempts
to take a plaything away. At last he consented to give it to me, and I felt
really sorry that I had not another glass to offer him.
Sumichrast led the way round the end of the ravine. Suddenly the birds,
which were warbling on the banks of the stream, all flew away; a goshawk
was hovering above us in the sky. As it was flying swiftly through the air, it
passed us within gunshot; a shot struck it, and, tumbling over and over, it
fell to the ground about twenty paces from us. Lucien immediately ran to
pick it up.
"It is a falcon!" he cried.
"You are right," replied Sumichrast; "it is the Cayenne goshawk, which
is characterized by having a head covered with ash-colored feathers, by a
brown body, and black feathers in its tail."
"Will you skin it?"
"Yes, certainly, Master Sunbeam; firstly, because this is any thing but a
common bird; and, secondly, during the few days we shall stay here, we
must endeavor to fill the boxes which we have had so much difficulty in
making."

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At this moment a finch, with red, brown, and white feathers, settled near
us.
"It is the Pyrrhula telasco," said my friend, "a species discovered by
Lesson, the celebrated ornithologist, in his journey to Lima. Ah! if I wasn't
so economical with the powder—"
"I have some powder," muttered Torribio.
"You have some powder!" I cried; "will you sell us some?"
"No," answered the Indian, dryly.
"Why not?" was my rejoinder. "Are you also a sportsman? Besides, if
you are, you will soon be going to Puebla, where you could get a fresh
supply."
"I never sell my powder," was the terse response.
"Very well, then, let us say no more about it."
We crossed over the stream by means of a tree which stretched from one
bank to the other. Ere the sun ceased to gild the ravine with its rays we
found ourselves opposite to the dwelling of the Indian patriarch, which
overlooked a hut similar to that of our guide. The sky was a pale blue, and
we had a glimpse of the monotonous plain dotted over with the sombre
cactus-plant; while just below us figured the fresh oasis, rendered all the
more charming by the contrast. The birds warbled in the shrubs, and one by
one flew away in order to return to the trees, among the branches of which
they had perhaps first crept out of the paternal nest. A warm breeze was
blowing when we got up to return to the village.
"I have some powder!" exclaimed the Indian, abruptly.
"Yes, very likely, but I also know that you don't wish to sell any."
"No, I don't."
The powder is surely mine, I thought to myself; and, after walking about
twenty paces, I again took up the subject.

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"Even if your powder was very good, I wouldn't buy it of you; I know
men like you mean what they say; nevertheless, if you like, I will make an
exchange."
"What could you give me?" replied Torribio, with affected indifference;
"I don't want any of your birds, and my gun is quite as good as yours, if not
better."
"That's true enough, therefore say no more about it."
And I continued to follow my guide, who walked slowly on. He soon
turned round again.
"The magic glass," said he, with a great effort.
"Come! now we've got to the point," murmured Sumichrast.
"It is a bargain, if your powder is good," said I.
"Will you really give the glass to me?" cried the Indian, his eyes lighting
up with joy.
"I am always a man of my word," I replied.
Torribio hurried on so fast that Lucien was obliged to run in order to
keep up with us. After crossing the stream, our guide conducted us to his
hut, and showed us four cases of American powder which was quite sound,
and more than five or six pounds of assorted shot.
I was overjoyed at this discovery; but I maintained an indifference quite
equal to that of our guide, who was squatting down on the ground with his
chin resting between his knees.
"Here is the telescope," I said.
His features remained perfectly motionless, but his eyes sparkled and his
hand trembled slightly as he seized the object of his longing. I showed him
how to use and clean the instrument; then, loaded with the boxes, which
were so precious to me, and followed by my companions, I returned to
Coyotepec's dwelling.

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"Why didn't Torribio say at once that he was willing to exchange his
powder for the telescope?" asked Lucien.
"The reason is, because an Indian always tries to conceal his wishes and
passions."
"But why didn't you offer him the instrument directly?"
"If I had shown too much eagerness, very probably he would have
refused to make an exchange, and the Indian seldom retracts what he has
once said."
Of course, l'Encuerado, always the most extravagant in its use, was
perfectly delighted to see our stock of ammunition trebled.
We had scarcely finished our dinner, when we heard the sound of a
guitar: the Mistec, after having preached, had succeeded in convincing his
congregation that a dance was the proper method of winding up the day.
The space in front of the patriarch's dwelling having been swept, and two
crackling fires lighted, ere long the women made their appearance, in what
they considered full dress, and their hair loaded with flowers. The national
air of the Jarabe was played, and the dancers trod the measure with energy.
Lucien, who had joined the crowd, wanted to teach the polka and waltz to
the Indian children. Sumichrast stood by, laughing most heartily; but his
merriment increased on seeing l'Encuerado's gambols, for never before had
such wonderful capers been cut. He sang, strummed on his guitar, and
danced—often doing all three at the same time. About ten o'clock, Lucien
retired to rest. The fatigues of the day, in spite of the noise of the guitar and
the songs, soon sent him to sleep.
At a proper hour I desired every one to go home. They kissed my hands,
some even embraced me, and obeyed; so silence once more reigned in the
little valley. Before my going to sleep, l'Encuerado was already snoring,
with his head on Gringalet's back.

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Page 254

CHAPTER XXII.
MEXICAN OAK-APPLES.—A STREAM LOST IN AN ABYSS.—THE WILD
NASTURTIUM.—SPORTSMEN DECEIVED BY CHILDREN.—THE
GRAVE-DIGGING BEETLES.—THE COCHINEAL INSECT.—MEXICAN
WINE.—GOOD-BYE TO OUR INDIAN HOSTS.

As soon as it was light, I awoke Sumichrast and Lucien. L'Encuerado
was sleeping so soundly, after his exploits of the night before, that we
hesitated to disturb him. I intended to hunt for insects all day, so as to fill up
the vacant spaces in the specimen-boxes that Torribio was to take to Puebla;
so we bent our steps towards the bottom of the valley. As the inhabitants
were still asleep in their huts, Gringalet passed safely all his sleeping
brother-dogs with his tail boldly cocked.
The winding path brought us out into an extensive hollow covered with
verdure. In a hundred paces more, we reached some pyramid-shaped rocks,
which were bound together by the gigantic roots of a tree with scanty
foliage. The water glided noiselessly through the stones, and disappeared
under a low arch shaded by gladiolas, covered with blossoms.
Lucien, who was leaning over the opening, wanted to know what
became of the water.
"Perhaps it is absorbed by sand underneath; perhaps it will reappear in
the valleys, where the surface sinks to its level," I answered.
"Do streams often go under the ground like this?"
"Yes; particularly in Mexico, where these subterranean passages are
numerous. Near Chiquihuita, about five leagues from the road which leads
to Vera Cruz and Cordova, a large river vanishes into a cave, which is more
than three miles in length."
"Oh, how I should like to see such a large grotto!"
"Your wish shall be gratified, provided we do not lose our way in the
Terre-Chaude."

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Sumichrast had only a few minutes left us, when we heard a report, and
he reappeared carrying a magnificent bird, whose red plumage had a purple
metallic lustre.
"We have never met with this fine fellow before," said Lucien.
"It is the most brilliant of all the American passerines," I replied—"the
Ampelis pompadora; but its splendid attire lasts only for a very short time.
In a few days its bright-colored feathers fall off, and are replaced by a
sombre, dull-looking coat. This moulting, which is common to many birds,
has more than once led ornithologists into error, who have described, as a
new species, a bird which a new dress has prevented them from
recognizing."
The neighborhood of the sumidero furnished us with a dozen birds of
different species; among others, several tanagers peculiar to America, and a
pair of pretty light-brown cuckoos, with fan-shaped tails, which are merely
birds of passage in this locality.
"When you are speaking of a bird, why do you often say it belongs to
Brazil, Guiana, or Peru, when you actually find it in Mexico?" asked
Lucien.
"Because, at certain seasons of the year, many kinds of birds migrate,"
answered my friend; "and they are often found at an immense distance from
the country where they breed. This beautiful blackbird, for instance, is
never seen in Mexico except in the spring, which has caused it to be called
here the primavera."
"Look, papa, at these beautiful yellow flowers; they cover the trunk of
this tree so completely that it appears as if they grew on it."
"They are the flowers of the tropœolum, or wild nasturtium. This plant
has been cultivated in Europe, where its seed is eaten preserved in vinegar,
and its flowers are used to season salads."
"Then the Mexicans do not know its value, for I have never seen it on
their tables."

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"You are right; but still I
should have thought that the
piquant taste of the flowers of
the tropœolum would have just
suited them. Perhaps they find
it too insipid after having been
accustomed to chewing
capsicums."
"You have the seasoning,
and I have the salad!" suddenly
cried my friend.
And he showed us a handful
of an herb called purslane.
This plant, which grows in
abundance in damp ground,
has red flowers, which close
every evening and open again
in the morning. I gathered the
fleshy leaves, while
Sumichrast, who had found a
"The water . . . disappeared under a plant covered with seeds,
low arch." showed Lucien the circular
hole on the seed which has
given to the plant its family name (Portulacæ).
Some maize-cakes and a salad formed our frugal breakfast, which was
discussed on the edge of the stream. Lucien especially seemed to enjoy it,
for I was indeed obliged to check him, the appetizing flavor of the salad had
so sharpened his appetite.
When we had finished our meal, Sumichrast tried to climb the steep
bank; but the ground gave way under his feet, and two or three times he fell.
I left Lucien to manage for himself, for his falls were not likely to be
dangerous. As he was much less heavy than we were, he succeeded in
reaching the level of the plain first, and with very little trouble, when he
amused himself by laughing disrespectfully at our efforts.

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"You had better take care of your ears," cried my friend, addressing
Lucien; "if I could reach you I would use them to hang on by."
In vain we tried to find a more accessible path. At last, getting rid of my
gun and game-bag, I accomplished the ascent.
"That's all very well!" exclaimed Sumichrast, fatigued and cramped with
his exertions; "but how am I to reach you, now that I have two guns and
two bags to carry?"
"Wait a bit!" cried Lucien; and, running down the slope, he soon
disappeared.
I heard him cutting at something with his machete; soon after he came
up again, carrying a long stem of cane.
"Now we'll try and fish up M. Sumichrast," said he.
Sitting down on the bank, I held out the rod to my companion, who at
once seized it, and, thus supported, gradually managed to bring up all our
hunting-gear, and ultimately himself, when, instead of pulling "Master
Sunbeam's" ears, he gave him a kiss as a reward for his ingenious idea.
About two hundred paces farther on the verdant ravine came to an end,
and we were surrounded by cactus-plants. Lucien employed himself
hunting lizards, and Gringalet seemed to think he was proving his
intelligence by running in front of the boy, so as to frighten away all the
game. The young hunter succeeded, however, in catching a green saurian—
an anolis—which, being more courageous than lizards generally are, tried
to bite the hand that held it prisoner, and angrily puffed up its crest, which is
variegated like a butterfly's wing.
Suddenly Gringalet barked uneasily; then we heard a shrill whistle, and
immediately afterwards the cry of a cayote. I called in the dog, and, with
my finger on the trigger of my gun, cautiously advanced, telling Lucien to
keep at my side. We walked so noiselessly that we surprised two or three
adders which were coiled up in the sun. The screech of an owl now struck
on our ears. I exchanged a look of surprise with my companion; this was
neither the time nor place for a bird of this kind. A fresh yelping and
barking then resounded; but this time it was so near to us that we halted.

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Gringalet dashed on before
us, and four children
appeared, repulsing the dog
with cactus-leaves in their
hands, which they used as
shields.
"Well!" cried Sumichrast,
"here we have the cayote,
the owl, and the dog, which
have so puzzled us."
My companion was not
wrong: the young Indians
were carrying provisions to
their elder brother, who was
taking care of a flock of
goats. In order to enliven
their journey, they amused
themselves by imitating the
cries of different animals,
and they did it with so much
accuracy that we had been
completely duped. "Four children appeared."
About three o'clock, my friend, who was anxious to prepare the birds he
had shot, left us to return to Coyotepec's dwelling. I continued walking,
accompanied by Lucien, but soon stopped to look at the dead body of a
mouse which grave-digging beetles were burying.
These insects, five in number, were excavating the ground under the
small rodent, in order to bury it. These industrious insects had undertaken a
work which would employ them more than twenty-four hours; two of the
beetles were lifting up one side of the carcass, while the others scratched
away the sand underneath.
"Why are they trying to bury that mouse?" asked Lucien.

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"They are providing for their young. They will deposit their eggs
beneath the dead animal, and the larvæ, after they are hatched, will feed on
it."
I disturbed the active creatures, which, unfortunately for them, belonged
to a rare species. Their antennæ, which are club-shaped, terminated abruptly
in a kind of button, and their elytra, which are a brilliant black, are crossed
by a belt of yellow color. In vain I turned over the ground and the prey, but I
could only find four of them.
On a path leading to a glen, we noticed some cicindelas. Lucien began
chasing them, but the agility of his enemies soon baffled him.
"How malicious these flies are!" he cried; "I can't succeed in catching
one of them."
"They are not flies, but coleoptera, allied to the Carabus family. Give me
your net."
Lucien was anxious to obtain one of them, and at length was successful.
He was delighted with the beautiful metallic color of their brown elytra,
dotted over with yellow spots; but the insect, after having bitten him,
escaped.
"What jaws they have!" he said, shaking his fingers; "it's a good thing
those creatures are very small. Do cicindelas live in woods?"
"They prefer dry, sandy places, and can run and fly very swiftly. This
insect has an uncommonly voracious appetite; look at this one, which has
just seized an immense fly, and is trying to tear it in pieces."
The capricious flight of a stag-beetle led us to the edge of the ravine;
and, continuing to follow a zigzag path shaded with shrubs, we came out in
front of a hut. On the threshold there was a young woman spinning a piece
of cotton cloth, whom I recognized as one of the dancers of the night
before. The loom which held the weft was fastened at one end to the trunk
of a tree, the other being wound round the waist of the weaver. Lucien
examined it with great curiosity; and when he saw the weaver change the
color of her threads, he understood how the Indian women covered the

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bottoms of their petticoats with those extraordinary patterns which their
fancy produces.
Within a short distance of the hut there were some nopal cactus-plants.
"Look at these plants," said I, addressing Lucien; "the sight of them
would probably affect l'Encuerado to tears, for they are principally
cultivated in his native land. The numerous brown spots which you can see
on their stalks are hemipterous insects, commonly called cochineal. They
have no wings, and feed entirely on this cactus, sucking out its sap with
their proboscis. The male only is capable of movement; the female is
doomed to die where she is born. At a certain time these little insects lay
thousands of eggs, and their bodies become covered with a cottony moss,
which is intended as a shelter for their young. The cochineal is gathered
when, to use the Indian expression, it is ripe, by scraping the plant with a
long flexible knife, and all the creatures, still alive, are plunged into boiling
water. They are taken out as soon as they are dead, and dried in the sun.
Afterwards, packed up in goat-skin bags, they are sent to Europe, where
they are used for dyeing and for making the carmine which gives to some
kinds of sweetmeats their bright pink color."
A little farther on, I found myself facing a maguey—Agave Mexicana—a
sort of aloe, from which pulque is extracted. The maguey only blooms once
every twenty-five or thirty years, and the stalk, which is to support the
clusters of flowers, grows, in the space of two months, to a height of about
sixteen to twenty feet. The stalk bears at its summit no less than four or five
thousand blossoms, and the plant expends all its strength in producing them,
for it dies soon after.
In the plantations on the plains of Apam, where the maguey is largely
cultivated, they prevent its flowering. As soon as the conical bud appears
from which the stalk is about to spring, it is cut off, and a cylindrical cavity
is hollowed out with a large spoon to the depth of from five to eight inches.
The sap collects in this hole, and it is taken out two or three times a day
with a long bent gourd, which the Indians use as a siphon. It has been
calculated that in twenty-four hours a strong plant should supply about three
quarts of a sweet liquor called Agua miel, which is without odor, and has an
acidulated sweet taste.

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The Agua miel is collected in ox-skins, placed like troughs on four
stakes, where the liquor ferments; in about seventy-two hours it is ready for
delivery to those that use it, among whom must be placed many Europeans.
A maguey plant is serviceable in producing sap for two or three months.
Pulque is an intoxicating beverage, the flavor of which varies according
to the degree of fermentation; it might be compared to good cider or perry,
and is said to fatten those who habitually drink it.
I reached Coyotepec's dwelling just as the sun had set. Sumichrast was
finishing his work, and l'Encuerado, coming from a heap of dry palm-
leaves, presented to me a splendid broad-brimmed hat, which he had just
made.
The next day and the day after were spent in hunting after specimens,
and our boxes were soon filled up and packed. I explained to Torribio, who
was to start at day-break, how to handle the cases, and then intrusted to him
letters which were to announce our early return. Lucien had written to his
dear mother and his sister Hortense, and he had to open his letter at least
twenty times to add postscripts, often dictated by l'Encuerado.

In the evening we bade adieu to our kind hosts, for we were to start
early. Thanks to them, we had renewed our stock of salt, rice, coffee, sugar,
and maize-cake. In default of black pepper, we took with us some red

Page 262

capsicums; but the most precious of our acquisitions was the powder and
shot I had received in exchange for the telescope.
On the next morning I learned that Torribio was already on his way
towards Puebla. He had started about midnight, so as to avoid crossing the
plain during the heat of the day. I now hastened our own departure. We
were in possession of good hats, but our garments, which had been mended
with some soft leather, gave us the appearance of mendicants; this,
however, did not trouble us much. My shoes, and also Sumichrast's, had
been strongly, if not elegantly, repaired, and were quite as good as new;
Lucien, too, now possessed a pair of spare sandals.
The inhabitants of the little colony ranged along our path, and,
overwhelming us with good wishes, bid us another adieu. I pressed all the
hands that were held out to me, and then, guided by the band of children,
who still surrounded the young traveller, we commenced to ascend the path
which had led us down into this hospitable little oasis. When I reached the
summit of the hill, I waved my hat as a last salutation to Coyotepec;
l'Encuerado fired off his gun as a farewell, and we plunged into the
labyrinth of cactuses, taking a straight course towards the east.

Page 263

Page 264

CHAPTER XXIII.
AGAIN ON THE ROAD.—THE BIRD-CATCHING SPIDER.—THE
MARTEN AND THE SKUNK.—THE FLYING SQUIRREL.—THE OTTER-
HUNT.—L'ENCUERADO WOUNDED.

Three days of difficult travelling brought us into the midst of the Terre-
Tempérée. Thus we had traversed the whole breadth of the Cordillera, at
one time shivering on their summits, at another perspiring, as we penetrated
narrow and deep-sunk valleys, just as the chances of our journey led us.
Every now and then we caught a sight of the pointed cone of the volcano of
Orizava, which assisted us in taking our bearings. At last, four days after
taking leave of Coyotepec, we established our bivouac at the foot of a
mountain, close to a clear and icy stream.
While l'Encuerado was making the fire, Lucien discovered under a stone
an enormous black and hairy spider, with feet armed with double-hooked
claws.
"Isn't this a tarantula, M. Sumichrast?"
"No, my boy, it is a bird-catching spider—so called because it is said to
attack the humming-birds' nests and destroy the young ones."
"May I catch it?"
"Not with your fingers; its bite is dangerous."
"One might easily fancy it was watching us, from the expression of those
two big eyes near its mouth."
"There is no doubt that it is looking at us; just menace it with this little
stick, and you'll soon see it assume the defensive."
The enormous spider raised its front feet, and two black and polished
horns issued from its mouth. After a moment's hesitation, it suddenly darted
at the end of the stick, which Lucien let go in fright.

Page 265

Ten or twelve paces farther on, the young naturalist discovered another
spider, and plied me with numerous questions about it. I could only give
him a few general facts as to this curious class of animals.
"But, I say, papa, there must be a great many different species of spiders,
for I see some at every step—green, black, and yellow."
"There are so many species that all of them are not yet known; indeed, I
believe that the Mexican spiders have not hitherto been described. It is
necessary to study them on the spot, for their soft bodies change their shape
in drying, and the proper means of preserving them are not within the reach
of an ordinary traveller."
In passing along, I broke through some threads of a light web stretching
between two bushes. The proprietor of the web—a gray spider—
immediately made its appearance, and set hurriedly to work to repair the
involuntary damage I had committed.
"Where does the thread come from?" asked Lucien; "it is so thin that I
can scarcely see it."
"From four reservoirs situated at the lower part of the spider's abdomen,
and filled with a gummy matter which becomes solid as soon as it is
exposed to the air. These reservoirs are pierced with about a thousand holes,
from each of which proceeds a thread invisible to the naked eye, for it takes
a thousand of them to form the thread the spider is now spinning."
"How sorry I am now that I hadn't collected more of these curious
insects! Some we have met with were very curious."
"In the first place," I replied, "spiders are not insects; they have both
heart and lungs, but insects breathe through air-pipes.[P] Added to this,
insects have antennæ, and undergo metamorphoses, which is not the case
with the spider. You must recollect, too, that the spider is akin to the
scorpion."
"Yes; but scorpions don't know how to spin."
"Well, all spiders do not possess this art. One of the species you were
looking at just now lives on plants, and would be much embarrassed if it

Page 266

happened to fall into the web of its spinning sister; added to which, it would
run no small risk of being devoured."
"Will spiders eat one another?"
"Without the least scruple, and scorpions do the same. It is, in fact, a
family vice."
"I am not at all astonished, then, that the whole family are so ugly."
"If they were ever so beautiful, it would make no difference in their evil
disposition. They have, however, some good qualities; such, for instance, as
patience and resolution. The poor spider, now, that we are looking at, is
working desperately to catch a prey which is constantly escaping.
Sometimes it is the wind which destroys the web so industriously woven;
sometimes a great beetle plunges heavily through the net. Nevertheless, the
spider is not the least discouraged; he again sets his snare, and, while he is
quietly watching for the game necessary for his subsistence, it too often
happens that he is himself carried off in the beak of some bird."
Lucien and I now went among the trees in quest of something substantial
for our dinner. The first thing we met with was a kind of marten, which
looked viciously at us, and greeted us with a shrill cry. Gringalet darted off
in pursuit of the animal, and followed it until it reached its hole. This
animal, like the European marten, from which it differs only in size, often
establishes itself in barns and granaries, where at night it amuses itself with
the noisiest gambols. In the environs of the Mexican towns, many a house,
invaded by these martens, is abandoned by its owner, because it is thought
to be haunted by ghosts.
"Look out for yourselves!" cried l'Encuerado, suddenly.
A mephitic weasel or skunk, an animal which somewhat resembles a
polecat, came running by. Gringalet, tired of waiting for the marten, crossed
the trail of the beast, and set off after it, in spite of our calls. The skunk
suddenly stopped and scratched up the earth with its sharp claws; then it
voided a liquid of such a fetid odor that the dog was compelled to beat a
retreat.

Page 267

L'Encuerado, with his finger on the trigger of his gun, started again, and
led us along noiselessly. He suddenly stooped down to listen.
"It is a quimichpatlan," said
he to me, in a low voice.
"A flying squirrel," I
repeated to Sumichrast.
Lucien was about to speak;
but I pointed to the Indian,
who, half-hidden behind a
dead trunk, was carefully
examining the top of an ebony-
tree. At this moment
l'Encuerado placed his gun to
his shoulder and fired. He had
taken good aim—an animal
came tumbling down about ten
paces from us, spreading out,
in its convulsive movements,
the membrane which joined its
legs together and covered it
almost like a cloak.
Lucien took possession of
the "flying squirrel," and, as "An animal came tumbling down about
they always go in pairs, my ten paces from us."
two companions went in
pursuit of the other, which they soon succeeded in killing.
"Are we going to eat these animals?" asked Lucien.
"Why shouldn't we?" I rejoined. "They are squirrels; and, even
supposing that they were rats, as the Indians assert, their flesh should be
none the less savory."
"Can these animals fly for any length of time?" asked Lucien.

Page 268

"As a matter of fact, they do not fly at all; but the membrane which
unites their limbs acts like a parachute in keeping them up in the air, and
materially assists them in some of their prodigious leaps."
"Can they run as fast as squirrels?"
"Nothing like it; they do not, indeed, often come down to the ground; but
their activity on trees renders them not unworthy of their family."
"I thought," observed Lucien, "that bats were the only mammals that
could fly."
"There is also the flying phalanger," observed my friend; "an animal of
the marsupial order, which is a native of Australia, and somewhat resembles
the opossum. It is said that, when it catches sight of a man, it hangs itself up
by the tail, and does not dare to move; but I think this story will do to go
along with l'Encuerado's about the glass-spider."
The Indian started off straight to the bivouac, and I led my companions
by the side of the stream, admiring as we passed some magnificent trees.
One of these was covered with brown fruit, with whitish insides, which had
a rather nice acidulated taste. I hastened to pick half a dozen of them,
knowing what a treat they would be to my servant.
As we went on, the banks of the stream gradually became lower, and ere
long a lake, deliciously shaded by cypresses, poplars, oaks, and ebony-trees,
opened to our view.
I sat down upon a rock, with Sumichrast and Lucien by my side, and
from whence my eye could wander all over the blue and transparent water.
We kept silent, being charmed with the smiling grandeur of this retired
corner of the world. Birds came flying by, and, settling down close to us,
warbled for an instant—then again took flight, after having given us time to
admire the rich colors of their plumage. The motionless water was covered
by long-legged insects with transparent wings, which seemed to skim over
the polished surface as if impelled by some invisible agency. Sometimes an
azure and purple attired dragon-fly flitted by, and all the insects fled at its
approach, like sparrows before a hawk. A brilliantly-colored butterfly
dashed against the voracious insect, and a furious combat took place

Page 269

between them; but the dragon-fly, which was eventually the conqueror, was
in turn vanquished by a bird.
We were just moving off, when the deep water seemed to be agitated,
and, although on the surface the flies and gnats continued their evolutions,
the fish in hasty flight disappeared, and communicated their terror even to
the water-snakes. A tortoise, however, seemed to deem it unnecessary to
retreat, only drawing its head and feet under its shell. Almost immediately
an animal swam vigorously up to the reptile, and, having stopped to smell at
it, continued its course.
"Are there such things as opossum-fishes?" asked Lucien, surprised.
"It is an otter," said I, in a low voice.
And quickly descending the rock, I followed Sumichrast to the water's
edge, at a spot where the animal appeared inclined to land. We waited for an
hour without any result.
My friend proposed to go and take a hurried dinner, and then return to
our post near the rock. In a few minutes we had joined l'Encuerado, for,
unknown to us, our bivouac was established about four gunshots from the
lake. The Indian jumped with joy on hearing of the appearance of what he
called a "water-dog."
"You may set me down as a fool," said he to Gringalet, caressing him, "if
by to-morrow morning I don't give you one of your brother's legs for
breakfast."
"Are otters really relations of Gringalet?" asked Lucien of me.
"Yes; according to Cuvier, they are digitigrades. Added to this, the otter
may be tamed and trained to bring fish out of the water, which it is very
skillful in catching, for it eats scarcely any thing else."
The sun was just setting, and behind us the dark outlines of the trees
stood out against the orange-colored sky, while hundreds of birds were
warbling and twittering around. A dark shade spread over the horizon, and
all was solemn silence. Ere long the sky was glittering with stars, and the
moon rose slowly above the trees. Its pale light penetrated the foliage,

Page 270

giving to the masses of leaves
those fantastic shapes which
make one dream of a
supernatural world. As the
moon advanced higher, it
diffused more and more light
over the scenery, and few
spectacles could be more
splendid than such a tropical
night as this.
The report of a gun
suddenly cut short my reverie,
and l'Encuerado's shout of
"Hiou! hiou!" summoned us
to him. While I hurried
Lucien along as fast as I
could, I heard some loud
shouting, which almost
smothered the furious barking
of the dog, and then saw my
friend Sumichrast grasping
the throat of an animal which
Gringalet was worrying.
Alongside, l'Encuerado was
lying on the ground, pressing
his right arm, and uttering
"The sun was just setting." cries of pain. He had been
bitten by the wounded otter
which he had attempted to catch hold of.
This was not the time to blame him, so I led l'Encuerado to the bivouac,
where I was reassured by an examination of the bite, which I had at first
feared was serious. After dressing the injured part, the Indian seemed much
relieved.
My friend—after Lucien had examined its broad muzzle and wide
nostrils, its smooth, black coat, and its feet, webbed like ducks—skinned

Page 271

the game, and put it at once upon the spit. When the meat was cooked to a
nicety, I covered it over to protect it from insects, and then proposed
retiring, for I foresaw that the Indian would be unable to carry his load the
next day, and that either Sumichrast's patience or mine would be taxed in
taking his place; for we did not intend to prolong our stay by the stream.
Sleep surprised us ere this weighty question was solved.

"L'Encuerado was pressing his arm,
and uttering cries of pain."

Page 272

Page 273

CHAPTER XXIV.
A LABORIOUS TASK.—WILD LIME-TREES.—PIGEONS.—THE WEST
INDIAN CHERRY.—THE EARWIG.—SNAKES AND SERPENTS.—FIRST
GLANCE AT THE TERRE-CHAUDE.

"How is your arm now, l'Encuerado?" I asked, finding the Indian up
when I awoke.
"Pretty well, Tatita; but I find I mustn't move it much. If I do, it feels as
if the blackguard water-dog was still holding me."
I again dressed the wound, the Indian continuing to hurl fresh abuse at
the otter. I made him keep quiet, and prepared the coffee. Sumichrast and
Lucien then rose, and we decided to start—the rainy season, which was
approaching, rendering haste necessary.
L'Encuerado, in spite of our remonstrances, insisted on shouldering the
load; but, on raising the burden, he found he was unable, so I shouldered the
load.
At last, after no end of exertion on my part and Sumichrast's—for we
alternately bore it—three leagues were traversed. We then halted at the foot
of a hill, among ebony, mahogany, and oak trees.
L'Encuerado took charge of the camp, while I, with my friend and
Lucien, climbed a neighboring hill. The trees which crowned its summit
were limes—Tilia sylvestris—here the type of what bear the same name,
and which are so plentiful in Europe, where they have been so changed by
cultivation that they scarcely appear to belong to the same species as their
brethren in the virgin forests. The wood of the lime is valued by the Indians
for making various odds and ends, which are sold by thousands in Mexico.
In Europe, the bark of this tree is used for well-ropes, and the charcoal
made from its wood is preferred to any other for the manufacture of
gunpowder. Few trees are more useful, and its beautiful green foliage makes
it highly ornamental in a garden.

Page 274

Our attention was attracted to a familiar noise—the cooing of doves. I
moved gently under the trees, and soon put to flight several fine specimens,
of a dark, ashy-blue color, with a black band across the tail-feathers, which
were of a pearl-gray. I killed a couple of them; and Sumichrast, who was
better placed, knocked down three others. They were quite sufficient for our
dinners. They were the first of this family that we had killed, and Lucien in
vain tried to make out what he called their relationship.
"They are neither passerines," said he, "nor palmipedes. Climbers, too,
have differently-made feet."
"Your doubts are very natural," interposed my friend; "even
ornithologists are very undecided on this point. Nevertheless they class
pigeons among the gallinaceæ, looking upon them as a link between this
order and the passerines."
"Why don't they make an order for them by themselves?"
"Bravo, Master Sunbeam! your idea is an excellent one, but it has been
already proposed; several naturalists reckon an order of columbidæ. But you
ought to know that pigeons inhabit the whole surface of the globe, and that
they are white, blue, red, green, and brown; and sometimes all these shades
blend together, and add their brilliancy to the pleasing shape of the bird.
The pigeon or dove, which is adopted as the emblem of mildness and
innocence, is readily tamed; its flight is rather heavy, but lasting; and, in
Belgium chiefly, it is used as a bearer of letters, by conveying the bird to a
long distance from its home, to which its instinct always leads it to return."
Lucien seemed very thoughtful.
"I wish I had known that before," he said; "we might have brought a
pigeon or two with us, and then poor mamma would have had news of us
before now."
Sumichrast, who had taken upon himself the office of head-cook, vacant
owing to l'Encuerado's wound, returned to the bivouac laden with our game.
I skirted the wood in company with Lucien, who was the first to discover a
West Indian cherry-tree—Malpighia glabra. The red fleshy and acid fruit
was much to our taste; so the boy climbed the tree in order to get plenty,
rejoicing in the idea of giving his friends an agreeable surprise. When he

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had finished, we went to examine a dead tree. A piece of bark, quickly
pulled off, discovered a quantity of those insects commonly called earwigs.
"Do you notice, papa, those white specks one of the earwigs is covering
with its body?"
"It is a female sitting on her eggs; but look at this!"
"Eight, ten, twelve little ones! How pretty they are! One might well
fancy that they were being led by the big earwig, which keeps turning round
to them. There! now she has stopped, and the little ones are crawling all
round her."
I could hardly get Lucien away from his interesting study; but the
hissing of a snake which I turned out from under a stone soon brought the
boy to me. I caught hold of the reptile, which rolled itself with some force
round my arm. The boy, quite speechless with surprise, looked anxiously at
me.
"Oh father!" exclaimed he in terror, running towards me.
"Don't be alarmed; this reptile has no fangs, and it is so small I can
handle it quite safely."
"But it will hurt you with its sting."
"It has no sting; there is no danger to be feared from its tongue. Here,
you take hold of it."
The boy hesitated at first, but gradually growing bolder, allowed the
snake to wind round his arm. When close by the fire, he held it out to
l'Encuerado, who shrank back; for he fully believed all reptiles to be
venomous. Lucien in vain urged him to handle it.
"I shan't mind touching it," he said, "when you have told me the words
you say to make yourself invulnerable."
"I am no more invulnerable than you are," replied Lucien, smiling. "This
snake is quite harmless, and I should never touch one without taking papa's
advice, even if it exactly resembled this."

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"And you didn't repeat any words?"
"No; papa had it in his hands, and it coiled round his arm."
"I understand, then," murmured the Indian; "it is the serpent that is
charmed."
Gringalet, quite as mistrustful as l'Encuerado, ran off directly he saw the
reptile move. I told Lucien to let the snake go, and the Indian unsheathed
his cutlass; but I would not allow him to injure the poor creature.
Our new cook was perfect master of his art. He supplied us with some
excellent maize broth, roasted pigeons, and then a rice-cake—certainly
rather shapeless, but of a delicious flavor. The cherries completed this regal
bill of fare, and the "calumet of peace" was associated with a cup of coffee.
At nightfall, Sumichrast, avoiding Lucien's questions, went slyly to rest, an
example I was not slow in following—the weight of the basket having
fatigued me more than my pride allowed me to confess.
The next day the rising sun found us already on the road. L'Encuerado's
wound was less painful, and did not prevent his using his gun. Had it not
been for my express prohibition, he would have resumed his burden. When
we reached the summit of the hill, he led us among the trees, and,
commencing a descent, our little party did not stop till we had reached the
bottom of a dark and damp glen, close to a greenish pool. After utilizing our
halt by filling our gourds and killing an armadillo, we hurried to get away
from a spot where the air seemed poisoned with pestilential miasma.
Having again ascended the slope, I advanced through a grove of firs,
encouraging my friend with the load, who was archly challenged to a race
by Lucien.
"That's not at all generous," said I to him; "if Sumichrast did not carry
the basket sometimes, what would become of us?"
"I'm only sorry that I am not strong enough to help you," replied the boy.
"I only tease M. Sumichrast because I know it amuses him, and makes him
forget his burden, then he walks more easily."
"You never were more correct!" responded my friend, "I certainly
fancied you were indulging your own humor without thinking about me."

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A fresh ascent quite exhausted us, and Sumichrast vowed that he must
relinquish the basket until the next day. I then took it; but in a very little
time I was compelled to take the same resolution as my friend, so we settled
down to bivouac.
While my companions were engaged in the cooking, I walked a little
way on the plateau. I had not gone above two or three hundred yards before
I called to the others to join me; for the Terre-Chaude was stretched out at
my foot.
Departing day at last cast its mysterious veil over the tracts we were
about to traverse. Just before it became quite dark, a snow-clad corner of
the volcano of Orizava was seen in the distance. I lifted up Lucien, and,
kissing him, pointed it out, thinking on the dear ones who were behind the
mountain, counting the days till we returned. Gringalet barked, as if
claiming a caress for himself, and, guided by the dog, we reached our
bivouac to enjoy a well-deserved repose.

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"The Terre-Chaude was stretched out
at my feet."

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Page 280

CHAPTER XXV.
A GROUND-SQUIRREL.—A MOUSE'S NEST.—HUMMING-BIRDS AND
THEIR YOUNG ONES.—THE LOCUST-TREE.—MEXICAN WOLVES AND
THEIR RETREAT.

I was suddenly awakened by the report of a gun just as the day was
breaking. L'Encuerado showed me an enormous squirrel, with a gray back
and white belly—a species which never climbs, and is, for this reason,
called by Indians amotli (ground-squirrel). This animal, which lives in a
burrow, has all the grace and vivacity of its kind, but it can never be
domesticated. It generally goes about in numerous bands, and, when near
cultivation, will commit in a single night great destruction; the farmers,
consequently, wage against it a war of extermination.
Just as we were setting out, l'Encuerado, whose arm was visibly healing
up, again took charge of the basket. I allowed him to carry it, on the
condition he should tell me as soon as he felt tired. I went in front, leading
Lucien by the hand, and the rocky slope was descended without accident.
The oaks were small and scattered, and left us an easy passage over ground
covered with dry leaves, which rustled under our feet.
"We might almost fancy we were in Europe," said Sumichrast, suddenly
halting.
"Yes," I replied; "it seems as if the yellow leaves had already felt the
autumnal winds."
"There's a dead tree," said my friend; "I feel sure, if we examine its bark,
we shall find some insects of our own country."
My friend's hopes were not realized, and the only result of his search
was to disturb the rest of two mice with slender muzzles. One of them
escaped, while the other tried its best to protect a litter of five little ones,
buried in some fine vegetable débris. Lucien examined the young ones with
interest, and after replacing the bark, as far as possible, in its original
position, rejoined us outside the wood. A descent so rapid that we could

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scarcely keep our balance brought us among a quantity of bushes covered
with double thorns, which Lucien very justly compared to bulls' horns in
miniature. At last the ground became more level, and, directing our course
to the right, we turned into a plain, surrounded by woods.
"Both trees and plants seem larger here than on the mountains," said
Lucien.
"You are quite right," answered Sumichrast; "the vegetation in the Terre-
Chaude is more vigorous than that of the Terre-Tempérée. As you advance
farther into it, you will be able to judge."
"Did you see that great insect that flew buzzing past us?"
"Yes, Master Sunbeam; but it was a humming-bird, not an insect."
"A humming-bird!" cried the boy, at once unfolding his butterfly-net.
And off he went in pursuit of the fugitive. The agile bird made a
thousand turns, and always kept out of reach of the young sportsman, who
at last stopped suddenly in front of a shrub. When I joined him, he was
contemplating three little nests, fixed in forked branches, and covered
outside with green and yellow lichens.
"There's the bird!" said Lucien, in a low voice.
I lifted up the little naturalist; two hen-birds flew off, and at the bottom
of each nest he could see a couple of eggs of a greenish color, and about the
size of a pea.
"If you hold me a little closer, papa, I can take the eggs."
"What would be the good, my boy? Look at them as long as you like, but
don't deprive the little birds of what is most dear to them."
"There's one bird which has not moved," observed Lucien.
"Then, no doubt, its little ones are hatched."
"The whole of its body seems to glitter; it looks as if it was blue, green,
and gold color. It sees me, and is moving. Now it is perched upon the tree!
Only look, papa! there are two young ones in the bottom of the nest."

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I put Lucien down on the ground, so that he might go to l'Encuerado,
who was calling him. The Indian had found a humming-bird's nest fixed on
a branch, which he had cut off and was bringing us. The elegant little
structure was a perfect marvel of architectural skill, lined inside with the
silky down of some plant. Two young birds, still unfledged, and scarcely as
big as nuts, opened their beaks as if to ask for food. I directed l'Encuerado
to replace the branch on the tree from whence he had cut it, and to fasten it
so that it could not fall down. I followed him, to make sure he did it rightly.
As soon as we came near the shrub, the mother fluttered all round the
Indian, and at last settled down, panting, on her young brood.
"You're a brave bird!" cried the Indian, "and I ask your pardon for
having carried away your house. Don't be afraid, my name is l'Encuerado,
and you may safely trust in me. Don't tremble! I would sooner be hurt
myself than cause you the least harm. There, now you are all firmly fixed
again, and you may live in peace. Your little ones can tell you that I have
not teased them; I only wanted to show them to Chanito. Good-bye, Señor
Huitzitzilin! you are a brave bird, and it's I, l'Encuerado, who tells you so!"
And the Indian went away, saluting the valiant mother with so many
waves of his hat that the poor bird must have thought her last hour had
come.
"What do these beautiful little birds feed upon, M. Sumichrast?"
"On the juices of flowers and small insects. Look! there is one hovering,
and its wings are moving too fast for us to see them. Don't stir! I see a
branch so covered with blue flowers that it can hardly fail to attract the bird.
Now it is settled above one of the corollas, and plunges its head into it
without ceasing to beat with its wings. Its cloven tongue soon sucks out the
honey concealed in the flower, and its little ones will greet it when it gets
back with open beaks to receive their share of the spoil."
"They are funny birds, those," said l'Encuerado to Lucien. "In three
months—that is, in October—they will go to sleep, and will not wake up till
April."
"Is that true, father?"
"I rather fancy that they migrate."

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"Now don't teach Chanito
wrongly," said l'Encuerado,
repeating a common phrase of
mine; "the huitzitzilins do not
migrate; they go to sleep."
"This fact has been so often
related to me by Indians living
in the woods," said my friend,
"that I feel almost disposed to
believe it."
"Don't they say the same of
the bats and swallows? and yet
we know they change their
habitat."
"Yes; but with regard to
humming-birds, they assert
that they have seen them
asleep. At all events, it is
certain that they disappear in
the winter."
"And the Indian went away, saluting." The clucking of a bird of
the gallinaceous order, called
the hocco—Crax alector—interrupted our discussion, and my two
companions carefully proceeded towards a dark-foliaged tree, a little
outside the edge of the forest. The clucking suddenly ceased; we heard the
report of a gun, and I saw three of them fly away into the forest.
L'Encuerado was climbing a tree when I came up, for the bird he had shot
had lodged among the branches.
"Do you see the long pods which hang on that tree?" cried Lucien.
"It is a locust-tree covered with fruit," said my friend; "it is a relation of
the bean and the pea."
"Are the pods eatable?" asked the child, as one fell at his feet.

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"You may taste the dark pulp which surrounds the seeds—it is slightly
sweet; but don't eat too much, for it is used in Europe as a medicine."
L'Encuerado dropped at our feet the great bird which Sumichrast had
killed. It was larger in size than a fowl, with a crest upon its head. Its cry—a
sort of clucking of which its Spanish name gives an idea—tells the traveller
its whereabout, although it is ready enough in making its escape.
L'Encuerado returned to the bivouac, and Sumichrast led us along the
edge of a ravine, obstructed by bushes and shaded by large trees.
We had been quietly on the watch for a minute or two, when three young
wolves, of the species called by the Indians coyotes, came running by, one
after the other. They were soon followed by a fourth, and then the mother
herself appeared. She glared at us with her fiery eyes, and then raised a dull,
yelping noise, which brought her young ones to her.
"Upon my word!" exclaimed Sumichrast, "does this wretch intend to
give us a present to her children?"
I stuck my machete into the ground, so as to have it at hand; and the
brute lay down on the ground, as if ready to spring.
"Now then, my fine lady, come and meddle with us if you dare!"
muttered my friend, imitating l'Encuerado's tone.
The coyote uttered a shrill cry, and almost immediately a sixth came and
stood by her.
"Don't fire till I tell you," said I to Lucien, who seemed as bold as
possible.
"You take the dog-wolf," cried Sumichrast to me; "but we won't provoke
the contest."
Seeing us evince no fear, the brutes suddenly made off. Sumichrast
descended to the bottom of the ravine, and then called me. I noticed among
the high grass the entrance of a burrow strewed with whitened bones. Two
yards farther on I saw the head of one of the animals, with eyes glittering
like a cat's, glaring out of the entrance of another burrow. I threw a stone at

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the beast, which, far from showing any fear, curled up its lips and showed
us a very perfect set of teeth.
As it was by no means our
intention to make war upon
wolves, I returned to the plain
with Lucien, who had shown
no ordinary coolness. I was
glad of it, for my great wish
was to inure him to danger,
and I feared the Indian's
misadventure with the otter
might have had a bad
influence.
"Didn't those wolves
frighten you?" asked my
friend of the boy.
"A little—especially their
eyes, which seemed to dart
fire."
"And what should you
have done if they had sprung
at us?"
"I should have aimed at "I threw a stone at the beast."
them as straight as I could;
but wolves are much braver than I thought."
"They were anxious to protect their young ones, and their den being so
near made them all the bolder."
When l'Encuerado heard that we had coyotes near us, he made up a
second fire for the night. The eastern sky was beginning to grow pale, and
as we were supping we saw the paroquets in couples flying over our heads
towards the forest. Humming-birds were flitting in every direction, and
flocks of other passerines flew from one bush to another. When they offered
to perch near our bivouac, l'Encuerado requested them in polite terms to

Page 286

settle a little farther away, and, on their refusal, urged his request by
throwing a stone at them, which but rarely failed in its purpose. The sun set,
and the mountains stood out in black relief against the pink sky.
The moon now rose, and I can hardly describe the marvellous effects of
light produced by its rays on the sierras. L'Encuerado had made a second
fire, and had taken Gringalet aside to insist upon his not roaming beyond
the ground illuminated by its flame, telling him that the coyotes, which
would doubtless pass the night in prowling round our bivouac, were very
fond of dogs' flesh. As if to add weight to this prudent advice, a prolonged
howling was now heard, which the dog felt obliged to respond to in his
most doleful notes.
"Oh!" cried Sumichrast, "are those beasts going to join in the concert
made by the grasshoppers and mosquitoes?"
Lucien, who had gone to sleep, started up.
"Where's my parrot?" he cried.
"Sleep quietly, Chanito!" replied the Indian. "It is roasted, and we shall
eat it to-morrow morning at breakfast."
This reply and Lucien's disappointed face much amused us.
L'Encuerado's fault was too much zeal: not knowing that Sumichrast was
going to skin the bird, he had sacrificed it. In order to repair his error, he
promised Lucien hundreds of parrots of every color; so he went to sleep and
dreamed of forests full of birds of the most brilliant plumage.

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Page 288

CHAPTER XXVI.
THE PATH THROUGH THE FOREST.—A FORCED MARCH.—THE
BROMELACEÆ.—MOSQUITOES.—THE WATER-PLANT.—THE
PROMISED LAND.—A BAND OF MONKEYS.

Gringalet's barking, the yelping of the coyotes, the heat, the song of the
grasshoppers, and the sting of the mosquitoes, all combined to disturb our
rest. About five o'clock the sun rose radiant, and was greeted by the
cardinals, trogons, and parrots. Lucien was aroused by all these fresh
sounds, and his eyes rested for some time on the wall of verdure which
seemed to bar the entrance of the forest. A cloud of variegated butterflies
drew his attention for an instant; but he was soon absorbed in contemplating
the humming-birds with their emerald, purple, and azure plumage.
L'Encuerado, whose arm was now completely healed, had again taken
possession of the load, and Sumichrast commenced cutting the creepers in
order to open a path. I relieved him every now and then in this hard work,
and Lucien availed himself of the moments when we stopped for breath to
have a cut at the great vegetable screen which nature places at the entrance
of virgin forests, as if to show that there is within it an unknown world to
conquer. Unfortunately, the small height of the boy rendered his work
useless; but he at least evinced a desire to take his part of the labor. At last
the thick wall of vegetable growth was passed, and we found ourselves in a
semi-obscurity, caused by the shade of gigantic trees.
"Are we now in a virgin forest?" asked Lucien.
"No, for we are only just entering it," I replied.
"But the ground is so bare; there are no more creepers, and the trees look
as if they were arranged in lines."
"What did you expect to meet with?"
"Plants all entangled together, birds, monkeys, and tigers."

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"Your ideal menagerie will, perhaps, make its appearance subsequently.
As for the entangled plants, if the whole forest was full of them, it would be
absolutely impenetrable. The soil is bare because the trees are so bushy that
no rays of the sun can penetrate, and many plants wither and die in the
shade; but whenever we come upon a glade, you will find the earth covered
with grass and shrubs."
"Then the forests of the Terre-Tempérée are more beautiful than those of
the Terre-Chaude?"
"You judge too hastily," replied Sumichrast; "wait till our path leads
along the edge of some stream."
"All right," muttered the boy, shaking his head and turning towards his
friend; "the woods we have gone through are much more pleasant. It is so
silent, and the boughs are so high that we might fancy we were in a
church."
The boy's remark was far from incorrect. The dark arches of the
intersecting branches, the black soil formed by the accumulated vegetable
débris of perhaps five or six thousand years, the dim obscurity scarcely
penetrated by the sunlight making its way through the dark foliage—all
combined to imbue the mind with a kind of vague melancholy. The limited
prospect and the profound silence (for birds rarely venture into this forest-
ocean) also tend to fill the soul with gloomy thoughts, and prove that health
of mind as well as of body depends upon light.
A furnace-like heat compelled us to keep silence, and tree succeeded tree
with sad monotony. The moist soil gave way under our feet, and retained
the traces of our footsteps. At a giddy height above our heads the dark
foliage of the spreading branches entirely obscured the sky. Every now and
then I gave a few words of encouragement to Lucien, who was walking
behind me quite overcome with the heat; especially, I recommended him
not to drink, in the first place, because the water must be economized, and
next because it would only stimulate his thirst.
"Then we shall never drink any more," said the boy.
"Oh yes! Chanito," rejoined the Indian, "when we form our bivouac, I
shall make plenty of coffee, and if you sip it, in a quarter of an hour your

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thirst will be quenched."
"Then I hope we shall soon reach our bivouac," said Lucien, mournfully.
If I had consulted my own feelings, I should now have given the word to
halt; but reason and experience enabled me to resist the desire. It would
really be better for Lucien to suffer for a short time than for us to lose
several hours, especially if we failed to find the stream we were seeking. It
was necessary to cross without delay the inhospitable forest which we had
entered, instead of waiting until hunger and thirst imperiously cried—
Onward! when perhaps we might be too exhausted to move.
The ground became undulating, and I hastened forward, thinking to meet
with what we wished for, when a glade, which enabled us to catch a
glimpse of the sun, enlivened us a little. Here there was some grass, and a
few shrubs and creepers. I called Lucien to show him what to us was a new
plant, the Bromelia pinguin of botanists.
Its ripe pink fruit was symmetrically placed in a circle of green leaves.
Lucien, kneeling down, tried to pluck them.
"Pull one from the middle, Chanito," cried l'Encuerado; "that's the only
way to get them."
The boy seized the centre berry, which came out, and, like the stones of
an arch when the key-stone is taken out, all the cones fell. Under their thick
husk there was a white, acid, melting pulp, well adapted to quench the
thirst; but I recommended Lucien not to eat more than two or three of them.
A second clump, a little farther on, enabled us to gather a good stock of
them. Providence could not have placed in our path a more valuable plant,
for the hundreds of cones which we had gathered would enable us to brave
the necessities of thirst for two or three days. We now walked on at a
quicker pace, and Lucien, a little refreshed, kept his place courageously by
my side.
"Well!" said I, "you must confess now that virgin forests may have
something good in them. How do you like the timbirichis?"
"They are excellent; what family do they belong to?"

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"They are akin to the pine-apples, and therefore belong to the
bromelaceæ."
"But the pine-apple is a large fruit, which grows simply on its stalk."
"Yes, so it appears; but in reality it is formed by an assemblage of berries
all joined together. The strawberry, which belongs to the rose family, is
similarly formed, and few people would believe, when they swallow a
single strawberry, that they have eaten thirty or forty fruits."
For an hour we scarcely exchanged a word, but walked silently on,
soaked with perspiration, and scarcely able to breathe the heated air.
"I think there is a glade," murmured Lucien, pointing to the left.
"So there is; forward! forward!"
Five minutes after we reached an open spot bathed in sunshine amidst a
thicket of tree-ferns and high grass. The trees, placed more widely apart,
were covered with gigantic creepers drooping to the ground. Here we again
heard the note of the hocco.
While I was clearing the ground, Sumichrast and l'Encuerado took up a
position amidst the bushes. I gave some water to Gringalet, whose tongue
hung out, for he had possibly suffered most, as he would not eat the fruit
which afforded us relief.
Two shots were fired shortly afterwards; but the sportsmen soon returned
with such a disappointed air that I felt sure they had been unsuccessful.
I made a joke of the matter, and pretended that the dry maize-cakes were
better than the fattest turkey. I spoke with such apparent seriousness that my
companions began to get animated, and a sharp controversy gave a zest to
our frugal meal. I asserted, too, that the tepid water in our gourds surpassed
in flavor the product of the coolest spring, and that the acid timbirichi was
the best of fruits. Gradually, however, I gave way, and at bed-time
pretended to be quite converted. I had amused our party, and that was all I
wanted.
The night passed without any incident save the continued attacks of
mosquitoes, and the unfortunate Gringalet pressing close to us to avoid the

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cruel stings of the blood-thirsty insects which much annoyed him.
At sunrise I gave the word to start, and all day long we met with no
glade to give variety to our path. I could not help admiring Lucien, who,
although suffering from heat, fatigue, and thirst, uttered not one complaint,
but only looked at me with a sad face. Two or three times I tried to enliven
him; the poor little fellow then shook his troublesome burden and smiled
back so painfully that I was quite affected. L'Encuerado, overwhelmed by
his basket, puffed noisily, and declared every now and then that he could
sniff the river and the smell of the crocodiles. This nonsense enlivened our
march a little; but soon, dull and silent, we resumed our sluggish pace. At
last fatigue compelled us to halt, when Lucien and l'Encuerado went off to
sleep, quite forgetting their suppers. I proposed to Sumichrast to regain as
soon as we could the mountain path.
"Let us keep on one day more," said my friend; "we have still four
bottles of water left, and even if we give Lucien and Gringalet the largest
share, it will serve us for another twenty-four hours."
The next day, just as we were starting, l'Encuerado killed a hocco. The
fire was soon lighted, and the game washed down with a mouthful of
brandy, which somewhat restored our energy. About midday, when the heat
was most intense, the aspect of the ground altered, the trees became wider
apart, and our strength seemed to redouble.
"Now, Master Sunbeam!" cried Sumichrast, "lengthen your strides a
little, if you please; don't you hear the murmur of a stream?"
"Three days you've been telling me this story, so that now both Gringalet
and I are skeptical."
"How will you behave when you cross the savannahs?"
"Just as at present. I would walk without drinking, so as not to excite my
thirst," replied the child archly, who had failed to be convinced by our
reasoning.
"Oh, come! I thought you were too ill for irony. Never mind, I can bear
witness that you have behaved like a man. What do your legs say?"

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"That they would be very willing to rest."
"You would like to find yourself at Orizava?"
"I should rather see a stream, an alligator, and a puma."
"You are most unreasonable. I should be contented with the stream."
"Don't you find that the mosquitoes in the Terre-Chaude bite much
sharper than those in the Terre-Tempérée?" asked the boy, addressing
l'Encuerado.
"No, Chanito; they are all alike, for they belong to the same family, as
your papa says."
"Then they must be more numerous here, for every instant one receives a
fresh pinch."
"You must not complain yet, Chanito; you'll see what it will be when we
reach the stream."
"How will it be then?"
"We shall not be able to open our mouths without swallowing some of
these blood-suckers. But, Chanito, do you know what these mosquitoes
are?"
"Yes, papa told me yesterday that they were diptera, and relations of the
gadflys. Their proboscis is a kind of sheath inclosing six lancets, by the help
of which they pierce our skin and suck our blood."
"But where do these hungry wretches come from?"
"From the water, where the insect lays its eggs. You know those little
worms which are constantly moving up and down in pools; they are the
larvæ of the mosquito."
"The mosquito, that terrible scourge of the Terre-Tempérée and the
Terre-Chaude, renders these regions inaccessible to the inhabitants of the
Terre-Froide. They can not get accustomed to their bites, which cover their
bodies with large red pustules, causing fever and want of sleep, and giving
the victims the appearance of having just recovered from small-pox."

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Again we walked on without talking, for the heat dried up our throats.
Suddenly some singular cries reached our ears.
"The clucking of an oscillated turkey!" cried Sumichrast.
L'Encuerado laid down his burden, and my two companions started off
in search of the birds. They joined us again in about a quarter of an hour,
each carrying a fowl with metallic-colored plumage dotted over with spots,
almost as large as a common turkey. It belongs to the gallinaceous order,
and is only found amidst the forests of the New World, particularly in
Honduras.
"Well!" cried Sumichrast, "we have plenty to eat now; but this is a bird
which is found at a long distance from streams, and warns us to economize
the contents of our gourds."
Five hundred paces farther on we saw some stones covered with moss,
and an enormous upright rock like a tower. We saluted the colossus without
stopping to examine it, and lengthened our strides, although the ups and
downs in our path gradually became more numerous. Gringalet every
instant raised his nose to sniff the air, and the hope of at last emerging from
the forest drew us forward with increased ardor, impelled, as we were, by
the desire of at last finding the longed-for stream. Lucien actually mustered
up a run, while his cheeks flushed and his eyes glistened with anticipation.
"Here are grass and flowers! Forward! forward!" cried Sumichrast.
"Forward!" Lucien re-echoed.
The great trees, which were now farther apart, allowed the rays of the
sun to penetrate the foliage, and the creepers drooped down in flowery
festoons. The convolvuluses, the ferns, and the parasites, all entangled
together, compelled us to use our knives. A somewhat steep ascent,
anxiously scaled, led us up to a plateau. In front of us stretched a prairie
dotted over with thickets, and bordered with forests of palm-trees, laurels,
magnolias, and mahogany-trees, from which sounded the songs of various
birds, mingled with the harsh cry of parrots.
Panting, weary, and perfectly soaked with perspiration, I proposed to
bivouac on the plateau. Indeed, the sun was setting, and we had only just

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time to collect the wood we required for the fire. This task finished, I went
and sat down with Lucien on the highest point we could find. The
mountains of the Terre-Tempérée showed against the horizon, although we
were already at least fifteen leagues from them. We long looked down on
the tree-tops of the forest we had just crossed, and the uniformity of the
dark-green foliage had a most gloomy aspect; and, while close round us
there were a number of birds fluttering about the trees, none of the
feathered tribe ventured into the solitudes we had so lately traversed.
"I can not catch a sight of either rivulet or stream," said Lucien.
"Courage!" replied Sumichrast, who had seated himself by us. "The
birds which are flying round us can not live without drinking, and their
large number shows that there is plenty of water near."
"Hiou! hiou! Chanito."
"Ohé! ohé!" replied Lucien, darting to the place whence he heard the
familiar cry.
The two friends went down the hill together, l'Encuerado carrying his
enormous gourd.
"Can he have discovered water?" said I to my companion, and I
approached the fire where the game was roasting under the inspection of
Gringalet. Sumichrast remained to look after the cooking of the birds, and I
overtook Lucien and the Indian just at the moment when they were bending
over a plant with scarlet-red leaves, which grew encircling the stem of a
magnolia. About a glassful of limpid fluid flowed from it into the calabash.
"Can we get water from this shrub by merely pressing it?" asked Lucien,
with surprise.
"All that is needed is to bend it," I replied. "It treasures up the precious
dew between its leaves, and l'Encuerado and I should have died of thirst in
one of our expeditions if it had not been for this plant."
"Why doesn't it grow in every forest?" asked Lucien.
"Certainly, if it grew everywhere, one of the greatest obstacles to
travelling in the wilderness would be removed."

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"And what's the name of this plant?"
"The Creoles call it the 'Easter flower;' it is one of the bromelaceæ."
"Does it produce any fruit good to eat?"
"No, but in case of extreme necessity its large red leaves would appease
hunger."
We reascended the hill, when an uproar proceeding from the edge of the
forest reached our ears. L'Encuerado smiled, showing us the double range
of his white teeth.
"See down there," he said to Lucien, pointing to a corner of the wood,
away from which all the birds seemed to be flying.
There was a whole tribe of monkeys frolicking about among the
creepers.
"Let us go and look at them more closely," said Lucien.
"It is too late now, Chanito; they have just been drinking, and will soon
go to sleep; but we shall eat some of them to-morrow—and now our supper
is waiting for us."
We finished our meal, and when the sun was setting we saw the
paroquets fly by in couples, and humming-birds flitting about among the
bushes; suddenly a formidable roaring made us all tremble.
"Oh! what is that dreadful noise?" cried Lucien.
"A tiger!" said l'Encuerado, whose eyes glittered with excitement.
"Not a tiger, but a jaguar (Leopardus onca)," said I; "the former animal
is found only in the Old World."
The king of the American forests again saluted the setting sun. Gringalet,
with his tail between his legs, came crouching down close to us; a second
fire was lighted, and we lay down to sleep with the indifference which
familiarity gives even in regard to the very greatest dangers.

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"There was a whole tribe of monkeys
frolicking about."

Page 298

Page 299

CHAPTER XXVII.
L'ENCUERADO AND THE PARROTS.—GRINGALET MEETS A FRIEND.
—THE COUGAR, OR AMERICAN LION.—A STREAM.—OUR "PALM-
TREE VILLA."—TURTLES' EGGS.—THE TANTALUS.—HERONS AND
FLAMINGOES.

The parrots that we heard chattering were quite sufficient to wake us up
in the morning. The sun rose red and angry; a perfect concert soon greeted
its appearance. The hoccos set up their sonorous clucking, and birds of
every kind came fluttering round us. Lucien, now reconciled to the virgin
forests, was never tired of admiring the varieties of trees, shrubs, or bushes,
and the infinite number of the winged inhabitants which enliven them. We
slowly descended into the plain; even now the heat was too much for us,
and long marches would soon be impossible. A flock of cardinals, with
crested heads, flew around us and settled on a magnolia, which then looked
as if it was covered with purple flowers. Farther on, some paroquets, no
bigger than sparrows, greeted us with their varied cries. L'Encuerado, after
tossing his head several times, and shrugging his shoulders, at last stopped,
and could not refrain from answering them.
"Come and carry it yourselves!" he cried; "come and carry it yourselves,
and prove that you are stronger than a man!"
"What are you asking the birds to do?" demanded Lucien.
"They are making fun of my load, Chanito; a set of lazy fellows, who all
of them together would not be able to move it!"
Sumichrast made his way into the forest, cutting away the creepers with
his machete in order to clear a passage. In less than an hour we had crossed
five or six glades. Suddenly I noticed that Gringalet had disappeared. I
called him, and a distant barking answered me.
"Can he have met with a stream?" said Sumichrast.
I advanced in the direction in which I had heard the voice of our four-
footed companion, and suddenly came upon him baying furiously at a

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young cougar, which Sumichrast ran towards, but the animal fled into the
wood.
"Where did you turn out this fellow, Gringalet?" asked l'Encuerado,
quite seriously. "Don't trust too much to his friendship, for it might be the
worse for you; lions seldom fondle any thing without hurting it."
"Was it a lion?" asked Lucien.
"Yes," I answered; "but an American lion, or cougar, known by savants
as the Felis puma."
"How I should like to have seen it! Had it a mane?"
"No; the puma is without one."
We were crossing another glade, when Gringalet suddenly rushed
between our legs. On looking back, I saw the puma slyly following us.
"Well, upon my word!" said Sumichrast; "does this fellow want to prove
that a cougar will attack a man?"
L'Encuerado, who had put down his load, was already aiming at the
animal.
"Don't shoot!" I cried, authoritatively.
The puma did not advance any farther, but glared at us with its yellow
eyes, its tail lashing its sides with a measured movement, while it displayed
a formidable row of tusks. Suddenly it stretched itself along the ground, as
if about to play. Lucien was now able to examine leisurely the beautiful
tawny color of its coat. It surveyed us with such a quiet, gentle aspect, that
it seemed as if it belonged to our party, even pushing its confidence so far
as to begin its toilet by first licking its paws, and then rubbing them over its
muzzle.
I gave the word for continuing our journey. L'Encuerado obeyed very
reluctantly. After this rencontre I placed Lucien, who congratulated himself
upon having had such a near view of the beautiful animal, in the middle of
the party.

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"If we don't eat the lion, it will eat us," said the Indian. "If we had only
wounded it, it would have gone and told all its companions that it was any
thing but prudent to go too close to our fire."
"Well, if it comes near us again, I give you leave to shoot it."
"You do? it's a bargain!" cried L'Encuerado. "Stop a minute, Tata
Sumichrast; cock your gun, Chanito; you shall have the first shot."
We stood together in a group, and I looked in vain for the cougar.
"The rascal has got in front
of us," added the Indian.
"We'll astonish him in a
moment. Come this way,
Chanito, but don't run or turn
round. Do you see that tree
that stands in front of us? Not
so far that way—that one we
were just going to pass under.
Look at the wonderful fruit it
has on it!"
"It is the puma!" exclaimed
the boy.
"That's pleasant!" muttered
Sumichrast. "Then there are
two pumas."
"No, no, Tata Sumichrast, it
is the same one. Aim between
its eyes, Chanito; fire!"
There were two reports
"I looked in vain for the cougar." almost at the same moment,
and the animal tumbled down
upon the ground without uttering a cry.

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"Don't be too quick, Chanito," continued the Indian; "this is not a water-
dog; always reload your gun, whether the enemy be dead or not, before you
trust yourself within its reach."
Gringalet ventured to bark round the beast, and I kept in readiness to
shoot, while my companions cautiously advanced. The cougar had been
struck in the forehead, and no longer breathed. It was about three feet in
length, and its hair, which was slightly waved on some parts of its body,
showed it was a young one. The Indian raised the animal's enormous head.
"Come," he said, "you deserve to die like a warrior. You are the first of
your race which ever ventured so close to my gun. Was it Chanito you
wanted to devour?"
"I think it much more probable that it wanted Gringalet; what a pity it is
that we can't tame these beautiful cats!"
"Cats!" repeated Lucien.
"Yes, to be sure; the great African lion itself is nothing but the largest
and strongest of all the cat tribe. Didn't you know that?"
"I thought the lion was a beast by itself; but, at all events, it is the king of
mammals?"
"It is rightly thought to be the strongest of all the carnivora: its head,
which it carries upright, and its beautiful mane, give it a majestic
appearance. With regard to its reputation for generosity, I scarcely know
what it is founded on; I fancy that the famous lion of Androcles had just
enjoyed a plentiful meal when it spared the life of its benefactor."
It was no use to think of skinning our victim, for the flies were already
swarming on the dead body, although it was still warm. L'Encuerado wished
to attribute to Lucien the honor of killing the puma; but the boy, although he
had always longed to achieve such a feat, said at once that he had missed
his aim.
I stopped in front of a tree (hymenæa) belonging to the leguminous
family, the pods of which contain a sweet pulp, and from its trunk oozes out
a resin, which is much sought after by the Indians, who use it as a cure for

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stomach-ache. A little farther on, a mango-tree tempted l'Encuerado, who,
like all his countrymen, was fond of its fruit. I disliked the nauseous smell
and taste of them, which reminds me of turpentine, although in some
countries, where care is taken in their cultivation, they are said to be
delicious.
Sumichrast, who was our guide, had to open a passage for us through a
perfect net-work of purple-flowered creepers. I helped him in his work, and
when we had overcome this obstacle, we found ourselves in a small plain,
in the middle of which rose a clump of palm-trees. Gringalet ran off to the
right, and soon returned with his muzzle all wet. Lucien, who was in front
of us, first reached what was a wide, deep, and slowly-flowing stream. At
this sight, l'Encuerado turned three somersets in succession, and struck up a
chant; our manifestations of delight, if less noisy than his, were, at all
events, no less sincere.
A gentle breeze was blowing, while the air was cool and soft; so that,
forgetful of the past, and sanguine for the future, we built our bivouac.
While at work, our eyes were attracted on every side by the insects and
birds, whose splendid colors literally enamelled the trees in which every
shade of green blended harmoniously. It would be difficult to describe the
wild grandeur of the scene around us. We might have fancied we were in
one of those marvellous gardens which Arabian story-tellers delight in
depicting. The roaring of some wild beast reminded us that our fire was
nearly out. At last I set the example of going to rest. We intended to pass
three or four days in this spot, as it was so favorable to our pursuits.
"Nobody can accuse us of being too fond of rest," said my friend; "this is
the 20th of April; therefore we have now been travelling uninterruptedly
forty days."
The next day at dawn I set off with Sumichrast on an exploring
expedition, leaving Lucien still fast asleep. We returned, about eleven
o'clock, with a dozen birds, among which we had a greenish-yellow
woodpecker, with a bright red tuft on its head; also a Cuculus vetula, a
species of cuckoo, which feeds on lizards and young serpents.
During our absence, l'Encuerado had cut down three palm-trees and
hollowed out the lower part of the trunks, in order to collect their sweet sap.

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He also wove a sort of
palisade of creepers round
several thick stakes, in which
we could sleep without fear of
surprise. In a hole near the top
of one of the palm-trees,
Lucien spied out a parrot's
nest, and had taken possession
of two young birds, red, green,
and yellow in color, which
seemed to adapt themselves
wonderfully to the attentions
lavished upon them by the
boy.
"What are you going to do
with these poor orphans?" I
asked.
"I am going to take them
home to my brother and sister.
L'Encuerado says that they
would perch on the edge of his
load." "L'Encuerado turned three somersets."
"How shall you feed them?"
"With fruit, and sometimes with meat. M. Sumichrast said yesterday that
they would eat any thing that was given to them. I have already named them
'Verdet' and 'Janet.'"
"They will be sure to get within reach of Gringalet; are you sure that he
will leave them alone?"
"L'Encuerado has already given him a lecture about it."
"Still I am very much afraid that 'Verdet' and 'Janet' will come to an
untimely end."

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While we were resting, Lucien and his friend went off to examine a
caoutchouc-tree. The boy came back much disappointed.
"Your India-rubber-tree isn't worth much," said he to Sumichrast,
showing him a thick white liquid, which he had just collected.
"And pray why not?"
"Because India-rubber ought to be black and dry."
"It will acquire these qualities as it grows older. The India-rubber oozes
from the tree in the form of a milky liquid, like that with which you are now
smearing your fingers."
About three o'clock, when the sun was shining perpendicularly down
upon us, I conducted my companions through the thickets, in order to
explore the course of the river. Very soon we were obliged to cut our way
with our machetes, and several reptiles made off before our approach.
Gradually, as we advanced, the bank became covered with swamp ivy,
bignonias, and cedar-trees, till we at last came out on a sandy shore, where
five or six turtles were apparently asleep. In spite of all our exertions, the
creatures reached the stream. L'Encuerado discovered two little heaps of
sand, one of which was still unfinished, and contained twenty eggs about as
big as chestnuts, and covered with a whitish skin. A little farther on, Lucien
caught a small red turtle, the size of a crown-piece. On hearing from
l'Encuerado that it would live several days without eating, he made up his
mind to take it home with him, and gave it the name of "Rougette."
Gringalet began growling; a deer had just shown its graceful form
among the branches. We all concealed ourselves as well as we could, and
when the beautiful animal came down to the water Sumichrast shot it dead.
I left l'Encuerado to help the sportsman in skinning our prize, and went on
with Lucien. The stream gradually became wider, and we suddenly found
ourselves fronting an immense flooded plain, above which flocks of wild
ducks were circling.
I sat down on the ground in order to admire the lake and its banks, edged
with royal palm-trees, the foliage of which, though dark at the base, is a
beautiful green at the summit. The appearance of a water-eagle, with its
grayish-white head, disturbed the aquatic fowls; as if by enchantment, some

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of them hid among the rushes, but the bird of prey passed over without
taking any notice of such game, which it doubtless considered unworthy of
itself. A tantalus settled down at about twenty paces from us, and plunged
into the stream and remained motionless.
"Oh papa! what a curious bird! it looks as if it had a bald head."
"You are quite right; it is the bird that the Indians call galambao."
"It's almost as tall as I am!"
"Don't you see that it is mounted upon long legs like stilts?" replied I,
laughing. "It is a relation of the stork."
"This is the first bird of that kind we have met with."
"These long-legged birds, or waders as they are called, are scarcely ever
found except in marshes, or on the banks of large rivers. They can always
be recognized by their legs, which are of an enormous length, and devoid of
feathers below the knee—a conformation which enables them to capture
their prey in shallow water."
"Is this tantalus going to fish?"
"I should imagine so, for birds of its order have no other means of
obtaining food."
"One might almost fancy that it was asleep, with its great bill drooping
down over its chest."
"Woe be to the fish that is of your opinion. There! did you remark its
sudden movement? It plunges its head down into the water like a flash of
lightning; and now you can see it holds its prey in its beak. Now it is
spreading its short black-edged wings in order to take flight, and divide
among its young brood the products of its labors. Do you see that beautiful
large bird with a tuft on its forehead? That is the Ardea agami, a wader of
the heron genus. But look, there is a flock of egretts (Egretta alba), clothed
in their plumage as white as the ermine. They fly about in flocks, but
separate for their fishing. These birds have rather a grave and sad air, and
utter now and then a wild and plaintive cry."

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We stopped to watch these waders gloomily standing in the water, until
we heard l'Encuerado's "Hiou! hiou!" informing us that our companions
were approaching the bivouac. I took Lucien through the forest, replying to
his numerous questions about the Grallatores, when we heard the chattering
and clatter produced by a band of monkeys. About twenty wild turkeys,
doubtless frightened by the noise, rushed between our legs. I let the poor
fugitives go, for we had already more victuals than we could consume.
Lucien wondered at the number of animated beings which surrounded us,
all the more surprising when compared with the gloomy solitude we had
just passed through.
"In the Terre-Chaude," said I, "the water-side is always fertile, for the
inhabitants both of the prairies and the forests meet there."
"Why don't the Mexicans live in such a varied and beautiful country as
the Terre-Chaude?"

"Because a dragon guards the entrance to these countries where nature
lavishes its choicest gifts."
"A dragon?"
"Yes; the yellow fever. A terrible malady which corrupts the blood, and
selects the most robust frames for its victims. The negro only can labor

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under this burning sun; where even an Indian is overcome by the marsh
fever."
"Are we liable to catch these fevers?"
"We should be in danger if we staid here till the rainy season."
"How that tree is loaded with fruit!" said Lucien, interrupting me.
"They are the Mexican medlars. To-morrow we will come and gather
some of them. Five or six different species of their genus grow in these
virgin forests. These beautiful trees produce various fruit, which is more or
less in request. That which has attracted your attention—the Sapota achras
—is especially well known. It is considered the most wholesome of all the
tropical fruits; and from the trunk of the tree oozes out the white gum called
chicle, which the inhabitants of the Terre-Chaude and the Terre-Tempérée
are so fond of chewing."
The night overtook us just as we were discussing a haunch of venison
roasted by l'Encuerado. A distant roaring told us that we were surrounded
by wild beasts; but we had every confidence in our two fires and the screen
which l'Encuerado had constructed; so we went quietly to sleep, although
we were awakened several times by a renewal of their frightful uproar.

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Page 310

CHAPTER XXVIII.
A GROVE OF LOGWOOD TREES.—ANTS AT THEIR WORK.—
PARASITIC INSECTS.—THE GREAT ANT-EATER.—SPOONBILLS AND
HERONS.—LOST IN THE FOREST.

We were all stirring by sunrise. After throwing away the remains of
yesterday's meat, one night in this climate being enough to putrefy it,
l'Encuerado arranged some fishing-lines along the stream, and our little
party set off, struggling against the heat, the mosquitoes, and the horse-flies.
The Indian, following the flight of a purple-feathered bird, led us close
to an immense ant-hill. The little colony seemed very busy; but I hurried
Lucien away, fearing he might be bitten by them.
"The ants are relations of the termites, are they not, M. Sumichrast?"
"No, Master Sunbeam; the ants are relations of the bees, and,
consequently, belong to the order of Hymenoptera. There are male, female,
and neuter or working ants. The males and females are born with wings; but
after the females have laid their eggs, they drop off these appendages, and
assist the workers engaged in constructing the habitation, taking care of the
young ones, and collecting the provisions required for the colony."
"Look here! one might fancy that the very grass was walking along."
"It is the ants which have stripped a tree of its leaves, in order to hoard
them up in their store-houses—a useless precaution, for these insects
become torpid during the winter months."
Lucien approached the moving column, which was divided into two
lines going contrary ways; one of them advancing loaded with vegetable
remains, and the other going back with empty mandibles. Nothing could be
more interesting than to see thousands of these little creatures walking
along in perfect order, eagerly carrying or dragging a load five or six times
greater than themselves. Lucien followed them. The column entered the
forest, and crawled up a tree, the lower limbs of which were already
stripped of their leaves, causing it to look as if it were dead. The ants

Page 311

climbed nearer and nearer to the top, and the summit was visibly losing its
foliage.
"How long will they take to carry away all the leaves off that great tree?"
asked Lucien.
"They will have finished their work by this evening," I answered.
Gringalet, who with generous confidence was lying down a few steps
behind us, and had not seen his enemies creeping slyly over him, got up and
began howling.
"Will you never be prudent?" cried l'Encuerado.
"Any one must be as simple
as a new-born infant to squat
on an anthill. This is the
second time you have done it."
Here the advice-giver was
suddenly interrupted; he made
a face, lifted up one of his legs,
and walked away with long
strides; then he sat down on
the ground in order to catch
the ants which had secreted
themselves under his leathern
shirt. I could not help laughing
at him.
"Look here, Gringalet's skin
is all over lumps!" said Lucien,
stroking the animal.
"They are caused by
parasitic insects," said
Sumichrast, "called ticks. In
future we must clear Gringalet
"It stood up on its hind legs."
every evening of these
inconvenient visitors."

Page 312

"But they won't come off."
"Pull them suddenly; their mouth is a kind of disk armed with two
hooks, which, if once buried in an animal's skin, are difficult to extract."
"How hideous they look with their little legs placed close to their heads;
here is one which is quite round, like a pea."
"It is because it has begun its meal."
"Does the tick only attack dogs?"
"The dog has his own peculiar species; other kinds lodge under birds'
feathers, and some birds have two or three sorts of parasites. There is one
belonging to the turkey, to the peacock, to the sparrow, to the vulture, to the
magpie, etc. I don't think there is a bird or animal which does not, like
Gringalet, possess its own peculiar parasite."
We had started off again, and another glade led us towards a field
extensively ploughed up by moles.
Sumichrast led the way, and conducted us towards the lake I had
mentioned to him the day before. L'Encuerado caught hold of my arm to
call my attention to an enormous animal moving about in the midst of the
foliage.
The animal came down slowly, and we could only see it indistinctly. At
last it reached the lower branches. It was an ant-eater (Myrmecophaga
jubātā). It remained motionless for an instant, moving its enormous muzzle,
and darting out its flat tongue, which, being covered with a slimy coating,
enabled it to catch up the ants with facility. At length the "bear," as it is
called by the Indians, slid down the trunk, hanging on to it with its
enormous claws, its prehensile tail strongly clinging to the sides of the tree.
At the sight of this shapeless beast, only fifty paces from us, Lucien
rushed to me in terror. Sumichrast had just cocked his gun, and the noise
made the ant-eater turn tail and prepare to run off, when it found itself face
to face with l'Encuerado. It stood up on its hind legs, with its snout in the
air, and then stretched out its arms ready to strike any one who was
imprudent enough to come within reach of them. Nothing could be more

Page 313

strange than the appearance of the animal in this defensive position.
Suddenly a shot was fired, and the ant-eater crossed its fore legs and fell
down dead. L'Encuerado had once been nearly throttled by an ant-eater, and
hence it would have been of no use for me to have attempted to prevent his
shooting it.
"Do not come near, Tata Sumichrast," cried the Indian; "these beasts die
very hard, and I still bear the marks of their claws on my skin. Let me just
tickle him up with the point of my machete."
"You need not have been afraid," said Sumichrast; "its ugliness is no
proof that it is vicious. It will not attack human beings, and only makes use
of its strength to defend itself. It is of the order Edentala, and akin to the
armadilloes."
"Does it eat any thing but ants?" asked Lucien.
"Ants and other insects. It climbs trees, and its bushy tail distinguishes it
from its brothers, the little ant-eater (M. dydactyla), which seldom visits the
ground, and eats more insects than ants, and the tamandua (Tamandua
tetradactyla)."
"But how many ants does it take to satisfy it?"
"Thousands; and it would die of hunger if it had to take them one by
one; but, thanks to the length of its tongue, it is enabled to pick up hundreds
at a time."
"What a very peculiar meal!"
"Didn't you know that some Indians are ant-eaters? In the Terre-Froide,
for instance, dishes are made of red ants' eggs, and there is one species
which secretes a sweet liquid, of which children are very fond."
On the shore of the lake a fresh surprise awaited us. The bank to the
right was covered with cranes, and that to the left with spoonbills, with
delicate pink plumage, one of which Lucien shot.
"Oh, what beautiful birds!" said he.

Page 314

"What a curious beak!" he
further exclaimed, examining
his victim, which Gringalet
had just brought him.
"Yes, that is why this bird
is called a spoonbill."
"Is it good to eat?"
"It is rather tough; but
when any one is hungry—"
Sumichrast put his finger to
his lips to enjoin silence; two
smaller waders made their
appearance and settled close to
us.
"Now, Master Sunbeam,"
said Sumichrast, "fire at the
bird to the left, while I aim at
the one to the right. Those are
egrets, and your sister will like
"The bank to the right was covered some of their beautiful
with cranes, and that to the left with feathers to put in her hat. Now,
spoonbills." then—one, two—fire!"
The two shots sounded almost at the same moment, and the birds fell
over on to the ground. This double report put to flight all the spoonbills and
cranes, and the lake was soon perfectly deserted.
We now took the road leading to the "Palm-tree Villa," and l'Encuerado
went on before us to take up his fishing-lines.
The heat became perfectly overpowering, and Sumichrast fell asleep.
About half-past three, I went off with Lucien towards that portion of the
forest close by the stream, with the intention of collecting insects. First one
object, and then another tempted us into the interior, till the oblique rays of
the sun admonished us to turn back. But imagine my dismay when, by

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neglect not to notch the tree-trunks as I passed them, I discovered I did not
know in what direction our camp lay.
"Are we lost?" asked the boy, in an anxious tone.
"We have gone too far," said I to the lad; "and perhaps we shall not be
able to get back to the 'Palm-tree Villa' this evening. I am going to fire off
my gun to attract l'Encuerado's attention."
The report resounded. I listened with an anxiety which increased when I
perceived that I had only three cartridges left, and Lucien only retained two
charges.
"You had better shoot now," said I to the lad, "so that l'Encuerado may
understand that we are signalling to him."
I again listened almost breathlessly, but in vain.
"We must rest here without our supper," said I, with a gayety I was far
from feeling; "if we go on walking, we might lose ourselves."
After cutting some fagots and making a fire in a semicircle round a tree I
lay down, with my dear companion beside me; and, though I tried hard to
conceal it, I could not but feel the gloomiest forebodings.
About midnight the breeze calmed down, and I closed my eyes that I
might the better hear the slightest noise. Several times I thought I caught the
faintest vibrations of a dull sound; but I ultimately attributed these noises to
my over-excited imagination. Suddenly a terrible roar re-echoed through the
forest and woke up Lucien.
"What is the matter? Is it Chéma?"
"No, my boy; it is a jaguar."
"Will it come near us?"
"I hope not, but go on with its nocturnal hunting; anyhow, behind the fire
we have nothing to fear."
I put Lucien back against the tree and cocked my gun, when the head
and bright eyes of a superb jaguar appeared about fifty paces from us.

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"The head and bright eyes of a superb
jaguar appeared about fifty paces from
us."

Page 317

Page 318

CHAPTER XXIX.
A NOCTURNAL VISITOR.—THE FALL OF A TREE.—A FEARFUL NIGHT.
—THE MONKEYS.—MASTER JOB.—ALL RIGHT AT LAST.

After looking at us for a moment, the animal crept cunningly round us,
alternately appearing and disappearing behind the trees. I hastened to make
up the fire, and then sat down near Lucien, who, gun in hand, was bravely
watching the enemy.
"Whatever you do, don't fire," I said.
"If I did, would the animal spring upon us?"
"He would far more likely retreat; but we shall want our ammunition to-
morrow."
For an hour the animal kept prowling round, every now and then
bounding off. At last it came and sat down about twenty paces from the fire,
then stretched itself on the ground and rolled about as if in play; but if we
made the slightest movement it immediately got up, and, laying back its
ears, showed its formidable teeth. Suddenly a noise as if of breaking
branches was heard, followed by reports like those of guns; then came a
horrible roar. Lucien, frightened, rushed into my arms.
"What!" said I to him; "don't you remember the noise made by the fall of
a tree?"
"Oh papa! I have heard nothing like it since the day of the hurricane."
"That is quite true; but it is an incident to which you will soon be
accustomed, for the first storm will probably overthrow many of these
formidable giants. The tiger is frightened too, for he has made off, you see.
Try and go to sleep, my dear boy, for to-morrow we may perhaps have to
walk a long way."
I leaned my head against that of the child, who soon dropped asleep. The
forest had resumed its majestic silence, which was only disturbed by the

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distant fall of another and
another colossus.
My anxiety was extreme,
and though I knew our friends
would range every way in
quest of us, we might so
readily wander in opposite
directions, as we had no
ammunition to signal with
should they come near.
Towards morning,
exhausted with fatigue, I fell
asleep, and dreamt, in my
feverishness, that we were
nearly at the end of our
journey, and close to Orizava,
in sight of home. A slender
thread of light announcing the
dawn of day awoke us, and
we arose.
The clearness of day now
"We now came upon some creeping
plants." broke upon us. For a quarter
of an hour I kept my ear to the
earth, listening in the hopes of hearing some signal.
Again and again I cocked my gun with the intention of firing, and as
regularly I laid it down, when I reflected I might only be throwing away my
ammunition.
At length I took observations of the bearings of the ground, and
followed, as far as possible, our trail of the day before.
In this operation we fortunately came upon a pool of water, at which we
quenched our thirst; but though our hunger was excessive, and game
plentiful we dared not discharge at it a single shot.

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We hastened forward, and came upon some creeping plants, indications
that we were approaching a glade. Some birds were singing in the branches
as we hurried on, but I had made up my mind to shoot the first one large
enough to make a meal for my brave little companion and self.
In spite of my efforts, I could not succeed in hiding my grave
presentiments; but my son's prattle, which was even gayer than usual, quite
justified the name of "Sunbeam" given him by Sumichrast.
"Don't be so serious," said he to me, suddenly; "you need not be
distressed about me. I have already guessed that we are lost; but I am with
you, and I am not a bit afraid but that we shall soon find our way again."
The poor child had not the least suspicion of the danger. Every moment,
too, tears came into my eyes, and I felt my courage getting weaker; I made
a strong effort to dispel my thoughts, and vowed that I would strive on with
faith and energy to the last hour.
"L'Encuerado will be sure to find us," said Lucien, with such an air of
conviction that I could not help sharing his confidence.
"Yes," I answered; "Sumichrast and l'Encuerado will find us or die in the
attempt. It can not be possible—" I had not courage to finish my sentence.
We commenced our march again with increased energy.
"Look out!" cried Lucien, suddenly; "it seems to me as if some one were
moving the branches close by."
"It is a monkey," said I; and off I went in pursuit of the animal, which,
leaping from branch to branch, seemed to set us at defiance. Suddenly it
uttered a guttural cry, and was answered by twenty more. I hid behind a
tree, and told Lucien to keep silent. Two or three times the active creatures
moved farther away, but at last they came so close that I could fire safely. I
never, I think, took more pains with my aim; the gun went off, and the band
scattered in every direction in a most precipitous flight. The monkey I had
aimed at seemed only wounded, when, as I was going to fire a second time,
it slid down and fell dead at our feet; its young one, which we had not at
first perceived, was sitting upon a limb about ten feet from the ground,
uttering low, and almost inaudible, plaintive cries.

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In a quarter of an hour the
animal was skinned and hung
in front of a large fire. While I
was superintending the
cookery, the young one
moaned incessantly, and my
companion tried every
persuasion to coax it down.
Urged by Lucien, I ascended
the tree, and tried to catch hold
of the motherless little
creature. No doubt it was
paralyzed by fear, for it only
showed its teeth, and allowed
me to place it on my shoulder.
It clung to my hair and wound
its tail round my neck, as I
descended, and I was in fear
every moment of feeling one
of my ears bitten. Nothing of
the sort happened, for the poor
brute's teeth chattered with
fear; I placed it close to the "The monkey . . . slid down, and fell
fire, where it immediately dead at our feet."
resumed its lamentations.
Then, by means of a flexible creeper, I secured it round the middle of the
body and tied it to a bush.
When we had satisfied our appetite on the dark and tough monkey's
flesh, I proposed to Lucien a fresh start.
"Shall we take our little captive with us?" he asked.
"Yes, certainly. It will be a resource for our supper, in case we do not fall
in with our friends."
"Oh no," cried the boy; "let us at least put off killing it till to-morrow."

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I hastened my pace, carrying on my shoulder our new companion, whom
we at once dubbed "Master Job."
I examined more carefully than ever the ground and the bark of the trees,
seeking for any thing which might direct our course. With a sickly feeling at
my heart, I saw the sun approach the horizon. The boy, quite broken down
with fatigue, looked at me, with his eyes full of tears. At last I halted, and
the dear little fellow stretched himself beside me and fell asleep.
While listening with ear and eye alike on the watch, I fancied I heard the
distant report of a gun. I jumped up—was it the fall of a tree? or was it a
signal from one of our companions? I seized my gun, but I hesitated before
expending my last cartridge but one. At length I pressed the trigger, and I
listened anxiously as the sound of my shot died away, alas! without echo.
Lucien did not move.
"Jump up! jump up!" I cried; for a dull barking moved the air. Suddenly
I fired my last barrel; then, with eyes shut, mouth open, and nostrils dilated,
I listened intently, almost forgetting to breathe. Minutes—they seemed ages
—elapsed without any thing more interrupting the silence. Lucien looked at
me with a scared face; I pressed my weapon to me in despair at having
expended my last charge, when a gunshot was heard ringing out clear and
close.
"It is l'Encuerado!" cried Lucien.
"Yes, my boy," I said, almost frantic.
"Reply to your friend!" I exclaimed; "one of the barrels of your gun is
still loaded."
Lucien fired, and was answered almost immediately.
"Call out, so as to guide them," said I to the boy; "for we have no more
powder left."
"Ohé, ohé, ohé!" called Lucien.
"Hiou, hiou, hiou!" replied a still distant voice.

Page 323

At the same moment Gringalet rushed to us as swiftly as an arrow, and
jumped upon his young master. After having overwhelmed us with caresses,
the dog made off again, and ten minutes later the Indian made his
appearance, and, running to the boy, clasped him in his arms, and rolled
with him on the ground in the excess of his wild emotion. I, too, heartily
greeted Sumichrast, but was almost too affected to speak.
All my companion's efforts to discover our trail had been ineffectual;
and Gringalet himself, when put to the task, had hunted in vain round the
thickets. The fact was, they looked for us on the right, while we had gone to
the left; for Sumichrast could not bring his mind to the idea that we had
turned our backs to the stream.
L'Encuerado, after cooking, spread out on the spot his stock of
provisions, to which every one did justice. Master Job was lodged safely
under the shelter of a large branch, and deep sleep took possession of the
whole party.

Page 324

Page 325

CHAPTER XXX.
WE BUILD A RAFT.—THE HORNED SERPENT.—GOOD-BYE TO "PALM-
TREE VILLA."—MOSQUITOES AND HORSE-FLIES.—THE
RATTLESNAKE.—AN OCELOT.

The next day found us at work building our raft, and l'Encuerado went
off with Lucien in quest of some flexible creepers, to be used for binding
together the various portions of it. When our companions joined us,
Sumichrast was squaring out the last trunks. Lucien, laden with creepers
wound all round his body, carried besides, at the end of his stick, the carcass
of a horned snake—Atropos Mexicanus—which has scales standing erect
behind its eyebrows, like little horns, which have obtained for it its Indian
name of mazacoatl. The reptile was nearly two feet long, and of a grayish
color, and gaped with formidable jaws, more than usually dilated by the
blows, I suppose, which l'Encuerado had given it.
Sumichrast, with infinite precaution, showed to his pupil the tubular
fangs, by means of which serpents inoculate the terrible venom with which
some of them have been endowed by nature.
"When the reptile bites," said my friend, "its two fangs press on a small
bladder at their base, and the poison is thus injected into the wound."
Our naturalist rendered his explanation still clearer by pressing on one of
the fangs, from the end of which oozed out an almost imperceptible drop of
liquid.
"How is it that the serpent does not poison itself?" asked Lucien.
"In the first place, it does not chew its prey; and, secondly, its venom is
only dangerous when it penetrates direct into the blood; and a man, if there
is no scratch in his mouth or in the digestive tube, can swallow the poison
with impunity, although a very small quantity introduced into his veins
would cause immediate death."
After our meal, which consisted of turtle and some palm cabbage, which
in flavor resembles an artichoke, I set the example of commencing work. In

Page 326

less than two hours the materials for the raft had been carried to the edge of
the stream, and the frail bark which was to carry us down to the plains was
constructed and afloat. A little before sunset, l'Encuerado, provided with a
long pole for a boat-hook, pushed it out on the water to ascertain its powers
of buoyancy; and the trial having been judged satisfactory, the raft was
moored, and we all lay down in front of our "Villa" to enjoy a siesta.
At last, when every thing was arranged for the voyage, l'Encuerado,
naked down to his waist, went behind as pilot. We gave a farewell salute to
the "Villa," by a loud hurrah, which seemed to frighten our menagerie, and
with a last look at the forest in which I had spent so many miserable hours
the mooring was cut, and the raft floated slowly and silently down the
current.
The raft soon drifted into a lagoon, covered with waders and web-footed
birds, which scarcely moved as we passed them, and some time was lost
before we could regain the course of the stream. At length, guided by the
palm-trees, our skiff glided between two banks bordered by trees, the high
tops of which sheltered us with their shade.
Every thing was calm around us, and we remained silent, awed by the
majesty of nature. The stream flowed on in one single sheet; creepers
hanging from the tree-tops drooped down into the water; while kingfishers
skimmed from one shore to the other, and humming-birds, with their varied
and shining plumage, fluttered about the flowers. Every now and then a
low-hanging tree impeded our passage, and we had to bend down on the
raft to avoid being struck by such obstacles. A mass of under-wood often
hid the interior of the woods from our view; but here and there a break in
the foliage allowed us a glimpse into its depths. Ebony-trees, cotton-wood,
pepper-trees, and palms, were intermixed with tree-ferns, magnolias, white
oaks, and willows. Here and there, too, a sunbeam marked out a vast circle
of light upon the dark water, and myriads of aquatic insects, gnats, dragon-
flies, and butterflies sported in the air or swam over the glittering surface.
After a time, the state of inaction to which we were doomed, aggravated
by the stings of mosquitoes and large green-eyed flies, became a perfect
torture.

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"Those are horse-flies," said Sumichrast to Lucien; "they are very fond
of blood, and are a misery to all kinds of mammals from one end of
America to the other."
"Their bite is more painful
than that of the mosquitoes,"
answered the boy, from whose
hand a drop of blood was
trickling.
"That is because their
proboscis is armed with
lancets which are sharp
enough to pierce the hides of
bulls and horses."
During this voyage, Lucien
amused himself by teaching
the two parrots to repeat the
names of his brother and sister;
but the birds, with one foot
held up and their heads bent
down, although they paid great
attention to the words repeated
by the boy, as yet did not profit
much by the lesson.
In the course of our voyage
"In front of us opened a glade,
bordered by tall palm-trees." we were constantly losing
trace of the current in some
vast lagoon, and had often a long search till we found it. In one of these
searches, I caught sight of such a picturesque bay that I proposed a halt. In
front of us opened a tolerably deep glade, bordered by tall palm-trees.
L'Encuerado pushed the raft to land over the aquatic plants, and I jumped
ashore to moor our craft.
A fallen tree tempted us into the forest, and on the damp ground Lucien
caught sight of a magnificent rattlesnake, seemingly torpid. Sumichrast
discharged his gun at the reptile, which reared itself up, and then fell down

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dead. A noise immediately resounded in several directions, and two or three
snakes of the same family appeared, one of them followed by three young
ones. The snake killed by my friend measured more than a yard in length.
Its skin was speckled with black, brown, and gray spots, and its flat,
triangular head had a very repulsive look. Lucien, with a blow from his
machete, cut off the rattles which give to the reptile its name. These horny
appendages, of which there were seven, were given to l'Encuerado, who,
like all his fellow-countrymen, believed them to be endued with miraculous
virtues—among others, that of tuning guitars and preventing the strings
from breaking.
A shot fired by the Indian led us back to the bivouac; our companion had
just killed an ocelot, called by the Indians ocotchotli.
"You see this animal, Chanito?" cried l'Encuerado, who was stroking its
black and brown spotted fur; "well, its tongue is poisonous. When it kills a
stag or peccary, it buries its prey under some leaves, then climbs the nearest
tree, and howls until it attracts all the carnivorous animals near. When they
have feasted, it comes down and devours what is left."

"But why does it call the animals?" I asked.
"Didn't I tell you its tongue is poisonous? If it ate first, the venom would
be communicated to the food, and the animals that feasted on the remains
would die."

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This fable narrated by Hernandez, and still told by the Indians, must
have originated in some as yet unobserved habit of the ocotchotli.
After dinner, when Lucien was going towards his pets to give them some
fruit, he saw an unfortunate tortoise between Master Job's paws. The
monkey was turning it over, smelling at it, and then depositing it on the
ground, persistently poking his fingers into its shell, a proceeding which by
no means tended to enliven the melancholy animal. According to
l'Encuerado's advice, Lucien stuck up some branches near the water, and
put the tortoise into this miniature inclosure.
Night came on, and Lucien was still teaching the birds to say "Hortense"
and "Emile." To our great astonishment, Gringalet went and stretched
himself close to Master Job, who, without hesitation, commenced freeing
him from the vermin which were lodged among his hair; then the two
friends went to sleep side by side. About nine o'clock, when I was making
up the fire before going to rest myself, Janet opened one of her eyes and
chattered a short sentence; but l'Encuerado was much too fast asleep to
answer her.

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CHAPTER XXXI.
THE HUNTERS HUNTED.—ESCAPE FROM PECCARIES.—A JAGUAR-
HUNT.—AN IBIS.—THE CAYMANS.—THE WILD BULLS.

After we had finished our breakfast next morning, we embarked our
baggage and menagerie, and prepared to depart. I was just going on board
the raft when a noise attracted our attention to the forest, and two peccaries
rushed past us, pursuing one another. L'Encuerado, taken by surprise, shot
at one of the animals without killing it, and we all gave chase. Hardly had
we gone a hundred paces, when the Indian, who was in front of us, turned
right about, shouting out, "To the raft! to the raft!"
A noise like the gallop of a troop of horses seemed to shake the ground.
A band of peccaries was pursuing us; and as my two companions halted to
fire, I succeeded in gaining the raft, on which I placed Lucien. The
peccaries, about a hundred in number, rushed on in a furious crowd.
Sumichrast, who was closely pressed by them, leaped upon the frail bark,
almost capsizing it, while l'Encuerado ran along the shore.
"Cut the mooring and push off!" he cried out to me as he disappeared in
the jungle.
Some of the peccaries rushed after the Indian; the others, chasing and
hustling one another, deafened us with their gruntings. I cut the mooring-
line; and, seizing hold of the boat-hook, directed the raft towards the right
bank, whence the uproar seemed to proceed.
"Hiou! hiou! Chanito!"
"Ohé! ohé!" I answered.
I was just going to spring off, when the Indian came in sight, followed
by Gringalet, and plunged into the water, holding his gun above his head.
L'Encuerado, instead of coming to us on the raft, turned towards a
peccary which in its eagerness had fallen into the water and was
endeavoring to reach the bank. He seized it by an ear and dragged it

Page 331

towards the raft, assisted by
Gringalet, who swam,
barking, behind, and biting it
when opportunity offered.
"Fire your gun at this poor
wretch's head," called
l'Encuerado to Sumichrast.
This was no sooner said
than done, and l'Encuerado
leaped on board, dragging his
victim after him.
The peccaries collected on
the shore continued to utter
loud grunts of rage; but we
were beyond their reach, for
the raft was soon carried past
them by the current.
"Are peccaries
carnivorous?" asked Lucien.

"A band of peccaries was pursuing us." "Yes, indeed, Chanito. If
one of us had been knocked
down by the band, there wouldn't be much left now but bones."
"Isn't the peccary a wild boar, M. Sumichrast?"
"It is a pachyderm—consequently, a relation of the pig," answered my
friend. "The wild boar is solitary, while the peccaries always go in flocks;
this makes them formidable enemies in spite of their small size."
"What, small! this one is larger than Gringalet!"
"The wild boar is twice as big. A characteristic of the peccary is, that its
tail is rudimentary, and the bristles spotted with black and white; moreover,
only its legs are eatable."

Page 332

L'Encuerado went round the edge of the lake in order to trace the course
of the stream. We lost more than an hour in false channels, and the raft ran
aground in a shallow.
When the sun had set, and all the birds were flying over us to their
retreats, we landed to bivouac for the night.
A deep-toned roaring sound awoke me up with a start; the first thing I
saw was Lucien, with his gun in his hand, crouching down close to
Sumichrast. On the shore, about sixty yards from us, I saw a long tawny
form, and two shining eyes. A second roar told me the name of our
nocturnal visitor, whose voice I fancied I had heard in a dream.
"And where is l'Encuerado?" I asked my companion.
"He is crawling away to the other side."
A shot cut these words short; the animal gave another roar, and rushed
into the jungle. We heard a noise like a scuffle, and then the jaguar again
came in sight; it ran round and round, roaring with rage. A final bound
brought it to within twenty paces of our camp fire, when it fell never to rise
again.
"Hiou! hiou! Chanito."
This sound took a weight off my mind, for I could not but feel alarmed
for the safety of l'Encuerado.
"Ohé! ohé!" was responded.
Gringalet, who was let loose, ran towards the enormous creature, and
barked at it from a safe distance. The Indian came up, with his gun upon his
shoulder.
"The beast is justly mine, isn't it, Tatita, and I am still the tiger-hunter?"
"Yes," I replied; "but let the tigers alone, if they will allow you, and let
us go to rest."
We were all going to lie down, when the roar of a tiger again shook the
air.

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"Hallo!" cried my friend; "is your beast come to life again?"
"No, Tatita Sumichrast; but my tiger is a tigress, and her mate is come to
see after her."
I told the Indian not to move.
"Let him do as he likes," said my companion; "he will only disobey
you."
Half an hour elapsed; all was profound silence, and we could hear the
slightest-rustling of the leaves. Suddenly there was the report of a gun, and,
five minutes afterwards, we greeted with "bravos" the triumphant "Hiou!
hiou!" of the Indian, who, streaming with water, came to dry himself at the
fire.
"I was obliged to ford the stream," he said; "but his lordship has got the
ball between his two eyes this time."
"You are a brave fellow," responded Sumichrast, shaking hands with
him.
"Now I shall sleep quietly," the Indian whispered to Lucien.
Master Job, Gringalet, Janet, and Verdet, all had their eyes wide open
when I awoke at day-break. Lucien rose just as I was starting for the water's
edge and accompanied me.
An elegant bird with a long curved bill came and settled down on the
bank; the boy remarked the beautiful bronze-colored plumage of the wader.
I informed him it was an ibis.
"The Egyptian bird which devours serpents?"
"One of its kinsfolk," I replied; "the ibis feeds, generally speaking, on
worms, mollusks, and even on sea-weed or aquatic plants. It may, perhaps,
sometimes eat water-snakes; but as to feeding exclusively on reptiles, or
destroying them systematically, that's quite another story."
We now reached the bivouac, and found my companions up, and
l'Encuerado in a state of high excitement over his exploit.

Page 334

Having drunk our coffee, we all turned up our sleeves, and set to work to
skin our magnificent prizes. This difficult operation employed us all the
morning, and was scarcely finished when I carried our baggage on board
the raft, which was soon pushed off from the bank.
Our way lay through walls of the densest foliage, which often met
overhead, while such was the awful stillness of the solitude, that we felt
oppressed, and only spoke in a low voice.
The hour for rest had long passed, and yet no one proposed to land. The
fact was, we wished some more animated resting-place; and though
l'Encuerado, with his pole, shoved us onward with energy, the numerous
bends hindered our progress, and it seemed as if night would surprise us
still afloat. At last the palm-trees became more crowded, and the stream
emerged from the forest, to cross a prairie; here the raft was moored under a
canopy of creepers.
Our first care was to stretch the tigers' skins on the heated ground, and,
while I was helping l'Encuerado, Sumichrast and Lucien went off in quest
of our dinners. The fire had been for some time burning, when we heard a
distant gunshot.
Sumichrast returned laden with a green iguana, and Lucien was dragging
by a string a little alligator about thirty inches long.
"Look, M. L'Encuerado!" cried the boy; "here is an alligator or cayman,
a relation of the lizards, and an enemy of man. This ugly young beast has
only baby-teeth, so can not bite much. It feeds on fish, otters, calves, and
many other animals. It is an amphibious being, M. L'Encuerado, a creature
that lays eggs like fowls, but buries them in the sand, where the sun has to
hatch them; it is a brute, too, which is so fond of man that it eats him
whenever it has a chance."
"Take care it does not bite you," said I to the boy; "how did you manage
to catch it?"
"I pursued it, thinking it was a big lizard; M. Sumichrast called out to me
not to handle it, and then tied this creeper round its neck."
"You don't intend to take it away with you, I hope?"

Page 335

"No; it is an ill-tempered
creature, and is always
anxious to use its teeth. I shall
just show it to Master Job, and
then let it go."
Neither Job nor his
companions seemed flattered
by this introduction, and the
boy was disappointed when he
deposited it at the water's
edge; for, instead of plunging
in, as he expected, it made a
semicircle, and ran off
towards the forest.
"Don't young alligators
know how to swim?" he
asked.
"Yes, Chanito; but they do
not go into the water till they
are old enough to defend
themselves against the big
males, which would devour
them."
The sun had scarcely risen,
when I saw on the shore, at "The banks of the river were covered
about ten paces from us, three with alligators."
monsters luxuriously stretched
out. One of them, from sixteen to twenty feet long, with a brown and rough
body, opened its enormous jaws and showed us its frightful teeth. I took
Lucien by the hand to lead him nearer to the reptiles, the better to inspect
them.
"I like tigers better than these creatures," said he; "certainly their roaring
is frightful to listen to, but they are by no means so hideous."

Page 336

"Look along there, M. Sumichrast!" cried Lucien, when we had again
taken to our raft; "there are eyes floating on the water!"
"You are not mistaken; they are crocodile's eyes."
The child nestled up to me, and I encouraged him; but these dark eyes
appearing in every direction, and following every movement of the raft,
troubled him beyond expression.
The banks of the river were covered with alligators, with their mouths
wide agape. Some of them glided down into the water and came near us,
but the majority remained motionless, not caring to exert themselves.
Lucien's fear began to calm down. He had so wished to see plenty of
alligators; now he complained that there were too many.
"Look at that one," said Sumichrast, "climbing up that spit of land. He
turns round with difficulty, and looks as if he scarcely had the use of his
limbs. The fact is, that his body has no proper joints, and only moves in one
piece. The best way, therefore, to escape from an alligator is to run up and
down, making the turns short and rapid."
The stream had hitherto flowed almost on a level with its banks, now the
latter became gradually higher, and we floated along under an arch of
foliage. L'Encuerado happened to raise himself to point out to Lucien a tree
covered with parrots, between whom and the Indian there immediately
commenced a lively chatter. Diverted by this amusing conversation, none of
us perceived an enormous branch, which just grazed our heads but upset our
entertainer. When he emerged from the water, instead of swimming towards
us, l'Encuerado made his way to the bank, and began, with cutlass in hand,
to hew and hack at the tree which had been the cause of his accident.
"If you're going to cut down that colossus," cried my friend, "we had
better encamp here, for it's eight days work at least."
"Only wait ten minutes more, at most, Tatita Sumichrast. It shall never
be said that this great booby broke my head and then laughed at me, to the
heart's delight of the parrots, who no doubt were the instigators of such
conduct."

Page 337

L'Encuerado, by the
notches he had cut in the tree,
could easily climb up to the
lowest branch; but in his haste
he slipped and fell a second
time into the water.
In a twinkling the Indian
was up astride again on his
branch, jabbering like an ape,
and slashing his knife into it,
when of a sudden it gave a
loud crack, and he and it
descended with a splash into
the river. At this noise the
parrots sent up a wild scream
and flew off, while the branch
floated past us to the ocean.
Our companion climbed up
again on the raft, and laughed
so heartily at his defeat of the
tree and the fright he had
caused to the parrots, that
"The Indian and his branch descended Lucien soon joined in his
with a splash into the river." gayety. He was, however,
thoroughly exhausted, so lay
down, when he slept the peaceful sleep of a child which has tired itself out
with a fit of passion.
For two hours I managed the raft, and then l'Encuerado, awaking,
resumed his post in silence. Suddenly there was a heavy tramping on the
ground, the boughs moved, and the head of a wild bull appeared among the
creepers. The animal surveyed us for a moment with its fierce eyes, and
then made off, bellowing hoarsely.
The sight of this new denizen of the forest confirmed the omens as we
had already read them, and soon, accordingly, there burst upon our view an
immense savannah. We were just about to pass the last shrub on the bank of

Page 338

the river, when l'Encuerado suddenly brought the boat to a stand-still. I
stood up and saw a herd of wild cattle moving rapidly down to that portion
of the stream which we were about to pass.
"Look out!" cried Sumichrast; "this is better worth seeing than the
crocodiles."
L'Encuerado landed, and, crossing the prairie, called us. I found him
close to an enormous willow-tree. Without loss of time, Lucien, Sumichrast,
and I climbed up among the branches, taking Gringalet with us; but the
Indian preferred posting himself in a more isolated position.
"We shall have roast fillet of beef to-night," cried he, executing among
the branches such a series of gambols that I feared he would finish by
falling.
The cattle approached. The ground trembled under their feet, and we
were deafened by their bellowing. One of them, a magnificent bull, with a
black coat sprinkled with white spots, took the lead. The drove, which first
trotted on, and then stopped to browse, followed its imperious-looking
chief; the caymans, as if awakened by the uproar, assembled at the opening
of the savannah, and numerous watchful eyes were to be seen on the surface
of the water.
The wild drove halted at about fifty paces from the stream; the black and
white bull advanced alone and, first leisurely taking a drink, plunged into
the water; he reached the opposite bank, where he halted and turned right
about. Then the entire drove, above which was hovering a cloud of horse-
flies, dashed at full gallop into the stream to join their guide. Although the
drove must have consisted of hundreds, in less than a quarter of an hour
there were not left more than five or six on our side, and these seemed
afraid to cross. Suddenly a gun was fired, and one of the animals came
rushing past our tree with a jet of blood flowing from his chest. Suddenly he
stopped, groaned, and sank down upon the ground. I cast a glance at
l'Encuerado, who descended to the lowest branch, continuing his gymnastic
exercises. The young bulls on our side, frightened by the report of the gun,
at last made up their minds to cross; one of them, however, stopping to
drink, was seized by a crocodile, and gradually drawn under the water. A
second disappeared in the middle of the stream; and a third, after a fearful

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struggle, reached the bank. The
whole drove, goaded on by the
horse-flies, then resumed their
furious course, and were soon
lost in the distance.
These cattle range the
prairies in droves of sometimes
forty thousand, and were
originally imported by the
Spaniards.

"The entire drove . . . dashed at full
gallop into the stream."

Page 340

Page 341

CHAPTER XXXII.
THE KING OF THE VULTURES.—THE TICKS.—L'ENCUERADO
FRIGHTENED BY A DEMON.—THE TAPIRS.—GOOD-BYE TO THE
STREAM.—THE PUMA'S PREY.—A MISERABLE NIGHT.—OUR
DEPARTURE.—THE SAVANNAH.—LUCIEN CARRIED IN A LITTER.—
HUNGER AND THIRST.—WE ABANDON OUR BAGGAGE AND PETS IN
DESPAIR.

The next morning l'Encuerado started alone on the raft; for we had
resolved to cross the savannah on foot, and thus escape, for an hour or two,
the insects which took advantage of our forced immobility in order to bleed
us at their leisure.
Flocks of black vultures hovered high up in the sky, bending their course
towards a spot not very far from the river bed. Our curiosity led us in that
direction, and in a large hole, with perpendicular sides, about twelve yards
wide, we saw several hundreds of these bare-necked gentry fighting over
the carcass of a buffalo. We were retiring in disgust, when the vultures, who
had not seemed the least alarmed at our presence, suddenly manifested fear,
and, abandoning their prey, stood around in evident concern. A new guest
had made its appearance in the sky, and soared round and round above us. It
settled down heavily, and folded its black and white wings; the new-comer
was the Sarcoramphus papa of the savants—a bird akin to the condor.
This king of the vultures, as the Indians call it, had a black tail, and
white plumage on its back. Its neck was adorned with a ruff of pearl-gray
feathers, and the top of its head was streaked in symmetrical lines with a
dark down; on its yellow beak there was a fleshy protuberance, the utility of
which ornithologists seek in vain to explain. The magnificent bird darted
round it a domineering look, and, advancing towards the prey, began to
feed. New guests were incessantly arriving, but they all kept their distance.
At last the sarcoramphus flew away, and immediately the vultures
rushed en masse on the carcass, which soon disappeared under the crowd of
beaks.

Page 342

We now made for the raft, but the distance was greater than we had
calculated; and, before going on board, it was highly necessary to free
ourselves of the hundreds of ticks which we had collected in the savannah.
These insects are black, and as small as fleas, and gather in masses at the
extremities of plants, ready to attach themselves to any animal that brushes
against them. They then bury their claws in the flesh, and greedily suck the
blood. It is a tedious job to pick off one by one these troublesome parasites,
which cause an almost unbearable itching.
About five o'clock in the evening, the raft came to shore in a bay shaded
by palm-trees. L'Encuerado hastened to stretch out his tigers' skins, and, as
night was at hand, we contented ourselves with the remains of a tortoise.
The Indian, who had walked but little, cocked his gun and strolled along the
edge of the river. In about a quarter of an hour he returned, looking pale and
excited.
"Have you been bitten by a serpent?" I cried.
"No, Tatita," he replied, quite out of breath; "something worse than that!
I have seen it!"
"What?" I exclaimed.
"A ghost!" said the Indian in a low tone, crossing himself.
"Pluck up your spirits," said I to the Indian; "if you have, we'll kill it to-
morrow."
"You can't kill it, Tatita."
"With ordinary bullets, no; but those which Sumichrast knows how to
prepare will soon settle him."
My curiosity was raised; for this ghost was an animal called a tapir,
which the Indians believe possessed of supernatural powers; and, as I had
never met with one, I was anxious that we should come across it.
"And didn't you aim at it?" cried my friend.
"No; I ran away," replied the fearless tiger-hunter.

Page 343

Thus l'Encuerado, whom the evening before we had seen braving tigers,
crocodiles, and wild cattle, now trembled at the mere idea of facing an
inoffensive animal, which was only a relation of the peccaries, with a snout
terminated by a non-prehensile proboscis, yet to which his imagination
attributed certain demoniac qualities. He that night utterly refused to go to
rest; at the least rustling of the leaves he expected to see the ghost appear.
Instead of directly opposing his error—which I knew would be of no use—I
endeavored to convince him that my power far surpassed that of the object
of his dread.
"If it wasn't for that," I
urged on him, "do you think I
would permit Lucien to sleep
in so dangerous a
neighborhood?"
Sumichrast gave the
Indian two bullets, and
solemnly told him that with
these projectiles he would
surely kill the object of his
dread if he aimed straight.
L'Encuerado gradually
recovered his self-possession;
the idea of slaying in one of
its most formidable shapes
the cause of his superstition
excited his self-esteem, and
he went to sleep, and no
doubt dreamt of his next day's
exploit.
At day-break we walked
down to the confluence of the "The reeds were pushed aside."
two rivers; in front of us
stretched a broad prairie covered with thick grass. If the tapir had not
quenched its thirst in the night, it would be sure to reappear; therefore
Lucien and Sumichrast turned to the left close by the stream, while I and

Page 344

my servant crouched down behind the trunk of a tree at the entrance of the
forest.
We remained in this position for more than an hour, when suddenly the
reeds were pushed, aside, and two of the looked-for pachyderms came out
together on the green-sward.
L'Encuerado kept on crossing himself without intermission.
"Fire," said I, in a low voice, "and aim straight at the forehead."
The gun went off, and the tapirs decamped; but one of them fell on the
ground before it could enter the water; it was dead ere we reached it.
"You have killed the object of your dread," said Lucien, who ran up to
examine the curious animal.
"Yes, Chanito, thanks to the enchanted bullets."
L'Encuerado having positively refused to touch the tapir, Sumichrast
undertook to cut it up, as we much wished to taste its flesh. All our efforts
to induce the Indian to do likewise were fruitless, and his ingenious mind
found a retort to all our arguments. The flesh of the animal reminded us a
little of that of the peccary, although it was less highly flavored.
About midday the tigers' skins were taken up, and the raft was soon
floating over the combined streams. We had at first thought of proceeding in
this way as far as the Gulf of Mexico; but the season was now too far
advanced to admit of such an excursion. We at length made up our minds
that the next day we should abandon our raft, and return by the shortest
route to our starting-point.

Page 345

At dawn of day our bivouac was enlivened by hundreds of birds.
L'Encuerado cut the mooring line of the raft, and let it float down the
stream, thanking it at the same time for the services it had rendered us, and
wishing it prosperity in its lonely voyage to the ocean.
As I stood watching the frail bark gliding away, two herons perched
upon it, and it soon glided out of sight laden with its winged passengers.
We were all ready to start; the "Tapir River," as Lucien had named it, we
bid adieu to with three hurrahs, and our little party set off, following
Sumichrast, who carried Master Job perched on his shoulder.
Our way lay in part through a prairie, where the heat was overpowering,
and in part through palm-tree woods, infested with mosquitoes. At last,
overcome by fatigue, we felt compelled to halt and bivouac for the night.
As we were arranging our bivouac next night, l'Encuerado saw a
crayfish, and set off with Lucien to try and catch some of them. I and
Sumichrast started on the trail of some deer we had seen bounding past. We
had scarcely gone more than five hundred yards before we climbed a hill
beyond which a savannah was spread out before us as far as the eye could
reach, the high grass of which looked almost like ripe wheat.
Sumichrast, who had halted, summoned me by an imitation of the cry of
an owl. I hastily and noiselessly joined him, when he pointed out to me,
among the trees, a deer quietly browsing, which would no doubt pass within

Page 346

gunshot. I stood watching by
my friend, following with
anxiety all the movements of
the graceful animal, for twice
it threw up its head and
showed some vague
uneasiness. Sumichrast,
fearing that it was about to
make off, was getting ready to
fire, when the deer gave a
bound and sank down under
the weight of a puma, which
had sprung upon it. I fired at
the carnivore, which the
ferocious brute responded to
by a loud roar, then, dragging
its prey a distance of about
fifty yards, it suddenly made
off. The venison of the deer,
and more than thirty small
crayfish caught by Lucien and
his friend, were a godsend to
"The deer sank down under the weight our larder, and amply made up
of a puma." for the short commons of
previous occasions.
We watched the sun go down from the top of the hill, and descried on
the horizon the bluish line of the Cordillera, with the volcano of Orizava
towering up towards the west. Henceforth this mountain was to be our
guide while crossing the immense savannah, an undertaking which filled
me with dread.
"Shall we cross that great plain?" asked Lucien.
"Yes, Master Sunbeam, it is the shortest way to Orizava."
"How many hours shall we be in doing it?"
"Hours? We shall be three or four days at least."

Page 347

At this moment a storm, which we saw impending, burst over us, and we
hurried pell-mell to our hut. For four hours the heavens continued to pour
down, amidst thunder and lightning, a perfect deluge, and we were all, in
spite of our shelter, soaked to the skin. The clouds broke up, and a few stars
shone out; about midnight the clear sky regained its azure tint, while the
moon dimly lighted up the landscape. L'Encuerado, who slept through it,
now woke up to help us to rekindle the fire and get ready a cup of coffee;
after enjoying which, and changing our clothes, we all retired to rest.
In the morning we held a council to deliberate about the route, and, after
some debate, we agreed to l'Encuerado's proposal, and decisively resolved
to cross the savannah direct.
It would have been madness to travel, so heavily laden as we were,
under the rays of a vertical sun; so I proposed not to start till the evening,
and that henceforth we should travel by night, a plan which quite rejoiced
Lucien.
After the baggage had been equally divided, and every thing that was
useless thrown away, I counted the maize-cakes, our only food, and found
we had enough victuals for several days, besides crayfish, and the flesh of
an armadillo. We filled our gourds up to the necks with water and corked
them tightly, then lay down in the shade to gain strength for our next stage.
About four o'clock l'Encuerado called us to dinner, and by sunset we
started, home-bound, each with his allotted burden over his shoulder.
Sumichrast, with Lucien following, led the way.
"Well, Master Sunbeam, you are nearly as much lost in the stalks here as
you were in the forest. Are your boots well greased? We shall have many
days of hard walking."
"Where are all the wild cattle and horses?"
"Not far off, I hope! first, because they would guide us to the ponds and
the streams where they drink; and, secondly, we may need them to furnish
us with food."
"Then shall we find nothing to shoot here?"

Page 348

"Nothing at all where the
grass is so high as this; animals
seldom venture into the midst
of these solitudes."
"And the birds?"
"They are never to be seen
unless the grass grows close to
the ground, excepting birds of
prey; and they, perhaps, are
hovering over us now, hoping
we may become food for
them."
For more than five hours we
kept on without stopping. I then
proposed a halt. By lying down
on the grass we at once found a
soft bed, and Lucien and the
rest of us soon went to sleep.
Before daylight l'Encuerado
awoke us, when, after taking
our bearings, he undertook to "While the moon dimly lighted up the
be our guide. As the first
landscape."
sunbeam appeared, we halted to
form our camp and erect our tent. We cleared a large space, and a hole in
the ground served as a fire-place. Our crayfish remained perfectly fresh, and
while l'Encuerado was broiling them, I and Sumichrast watched the
direction of the flames, as it was highly important for our safety that the
savannah should not be set on fire. The meal dispatched, and the fire
extinguished, we squatted down under the shadow of the grass, and
resigned ourselves to sleep.
I woke about midday, nearly roasted by the sun, which had now replaced
the shade. Calling my companions, so that they might change their position,
a new arrangement of our covering gave us more shelter, and soon once

Page 349

more all were asleep; but in the short intervening time Lucien began to
repeat to the parrots the names of Hortense and Emile.
At midnight, l'Encuerado shouldered his load and took the lead. The
second night passed like the first, and we travelled at least eight leagues.
Our third night was interrupted by five or six halts, but we plodded on
till dawn. At the first gleam of light, I examined the horizon; there was
nothing but bluish-looking mountains to the right, and in every other
direction only the gloomy and deserted plain. On this day we had to be
satisfied with maize-cakes; but the hope of at length reaching the woods
cheered every one.
"One night more," said
l'Encuerado and Sumichrast,
"and then we shall have rest
and abundance."
The fourth day's march
was much more wearisome,
especially to poor Lucien,
who, still uncomplaining, yet
commenced to limp
dreadfully.
The day broke, and I again
examined the horizon, but
could see nothing except the
sky and grass.
"I am afraid we are not
going the right way," I said to
l'Encuerado. "God grant we
have not been walking at
random for these three days."
The Indian stood up on his
basket, and carefully "Lucien began to repeat to the parrots
examined the outline of the the names of Hortense and Emile."
mountains.

Page 350

"We are in the right path," said he, positively; "the savannah is very
wide, that is all."
L'Encuerado's assurances only half convinced me. Lucien's feet were so
covered with blisters that he could scarcely put them to the ground.
Unexpectedly I discovered that he was weeping silently; so I took him up in
my arms, when he soon fell asleep.
In this emergency, l'Encuerado, with the straps and poles of our tent,
managed to make a kind of litter, upon which we placed the boy.
Sumichrast helped me to carry him, and though we had to stop hundreds of
times to rest our arms, still we accomplished several leagues. The day had
scarcely begun to dawn, when I again examined the horizon; alas! nothing
was changed, and the only things I saw were flocks of black vultures, which
are not generally regarded as a happy omen.

Owing to an accident by which our reserve gourd was burst and the
contents spilt, we were tormented by thirst, and the only food we had to eat
only half restored our rapidly-failing strength. In another day all our maize-
cakes would be exhausted, and the rice was of no use without water. Fatigue
gradually dispelled these gloomy thoughts, and we fell asleep.
I awoke about four o'clock in the afternoon, and was dismayed to find
that l'Encuerado had deserted us, accompanied by Gringalet.

Page 351

Having passed a whole night in useless waiting, hoping for his
reappearing, we resolved to pursue our journey. So we put all the baggage
into one heap, and set Janet and Verdet at liberty, leaving them the sack of
rice, which we could not carry. Then, loaded with our guns and gourds—
alas! almost empty—we prepared to start on our journey without having the
courage to undeceive Lucien, who thought we were going to meet his
friend.
At last, having examined the horizon carefully, I placed Master Job on
my shoulder, and, led by Sumichrast, Lucien being borne between us, we
pursued our course.

Page 352

Page 353

CHAPTER XXXIII.
THIRST.—L'ENCUERADO'S RETURN.—THE DESCRIPTION OF HIS
JOURNEY.—JANET, VERDET, AND ROUGETTE.—HUNTING WILD
HORSES.—OUR LAST ADVENTURE.—THE RETURN.

The undertaking was beyond our strength. Panting and suffocated with
heat, and tormented by thirst, we were compelled to desist.
Lucien's feet pained him dreadfully, but the brave little fellow kept
constantly saying, "I should be all right if I could only have a good drink."
My friend several times gave him his gourd to wet his tongue from, but
it was only temporary relief. Night came on, and we began to prepare for
our almost hopeless march. A mouthful of brandy gave us a little artificial
strength. So even before sunset, I mounted Lucien on my shoulder, and we
recommenced our journey.
Twenty times I was forced to take breath, and twenty times I struggled
on again; but happily the grass became shorter, which was a good omen,
and hope revived.
Sumichrast now lifted up Lucien, and walked on with a determined step.
I took up Master Job, and followed closely in his rear. We heard a dull
noise, and stopped to listen. It was the report of a gun, and by-and-by we
heard a horse galloping, and then a well-known bark.
"That's Gringalet," said Lucien.
"Hiou! hiou! hiou! Chanito!"
Our emotion scarcely allowed us to answer; the Indian sprang from his
horse, and, running towards the child, pressed him to his heart, and then,
stretching out his arms, fell senseless to the ground. I rushed towards him
and opened his gourd—it was full! With the help of Sumichrast I poured a
few drops of brandy between his teeth. He gradually regained his senses,
and looked at us in surprise. He was exhausted from hunger and fatigue.

Page 354

"If I had eaten or drunk," he said, simply, "I should have wanted to go to
sleep, and then what would have become of you? But my hunger and thirst
spurred me on, so that I have not lost a moment."
"My good fellow!" I answered, "you ought to have taken something to
restore your strength; for if it had failed, what would have become of us?"
L'Encuerado did not hear me; he had just fallen into a deep sleep, and we
soon followed his example. When we awoke, l'Encuerado mounted the
steed he had brought, and, taking Lucien up in front, led us back to the
baggage.
"Why did you start without letting us know?" asked Sumichrast.

Page 355

"Because you would have
prevented me from following
out my plan. I was convinced
there were woods and flocks
not far ahead of us, and as I
feared not the sun for myself, I
started as soon as you were all
fast asleep, having fortified
myself for the journey with a
drop of the cognac. I often
longed, as I proceeded, to lie
down and rest, but then I
thought of Chanito, and ran on
faster than ever. Without
knowing why, I stumbled, and
I think I must have fallen
asleep. When I opened my
eyes the sun was set, and
Gringalet was licking me with
his tongue. I got up, stupefied
as I was, and ran forward,
without halting, to the verge of
a wood. I dashed in among the "We had to cross some muddy
trees, and in less than a quarter marshes."
of an hour I came upon a great
lake, and horses and buffaloes running wild. My strength, however, began
to fail, and it took me more than four hours to catch this mustang,"
continued the Indian, looking down on his steed, "but I soon made him
know his master was on his back."
Having returned to our bivouac to recover our treasures, we resolved to
start immediately, as the sky was obscured by clouds.
Next day l'Encuerado set to work to provide us all with horses. Having
prepared a lasso, the agile Indian darted off at full gallop towards a drove
which were grazing some distance off; and by night had captured five of
their number. Two days, however, were spent in breaking our mounts and

Page 356

rendering them docile; but as our stores were visibly diminishing, and we
were considerably freshened up, it became highly necessary for us to start.
Next morning our little cavalcade crossed the plains and woods almost at
a gallop. The blue mountains in front looked higher and higher, and the
outlines of the volcano grew more defined.
The second day of our march we had to cross some muddy marshes, in
which our horses mired up to their bellies. On reaching firm ground again,
we hoped to perceive a human dwelling, but the trees restricted our view.
At last, in the afternoon of the third day, just as we were endeavoring to
go round two wild bulls engaged in a combat, a horseman came out in front
of us, halted for a moment as if in indecision, and then turned short round
and rode off, after having fired his gun at us.
We hurried on our horses, making sure of soon coming upon a hacienda,
when we heard another gunshot, and a bullet whistled by our ears. The
Indian rode swiftly towards the would-be murderer, but he went off at full
gallop. In spite of my cries, the Indian fired at him, and horse and man
rolled upon the ground.

The fool had mistaken us for horse-stealers; and the Indian, after soundly
thrashing him, at my entreaty let him off.

Page 357

When night came, we were at the foot of the mountains; so all we had to
do was to join the main road from Vera Cruz to Mexico. Our horses were
now set at liberty, after having been overwhelmed with compliments and
polite speeches by l'Encuerado. The brave animals at first appeared
undecided which way to go, and remained without moving, keeping their
noses to the wind. At last one of them neighed and darted off, when the rest
followed at the top of their speed.
We were now scarcely twelve leagues from Orizava, and almost
painfully impatient to reach it. Woods, mountains, valleys were crossed
with a kind of feverish haste, and the approach of night alone forced us to
bivouac.
At about three o'clock in the morning, Lucien began to reproach us for
our laziness.
Wood-cutters now passed, who saluted me by name, and one guided us
for more than a league, astonished at l'Encuerado's tales. He left us at the
foot of a mountain, the last we had to cross, the steep acclivity of which
somewhat damped our ardor.
Lucien was the first to arrive on the plateau. A few steps farther, and the
town of Orizava lay stretched in peaceful repose at our feet.
As the young traveller contemplated the town in which was his home,
involuntary tears moistened his cheeks; he stretched out his arms towards it
and sobbed.
All of us, however, shared his emotion to some extent. Now that we
were safe, we rejoiced that I had undertaken this expedition. I thanked God
for His manifest protection, and, for the last time, gave the word to start.
As we descended the mountain, the town became more distinctly visible.
L'Encuerado could name the churches and streets; at last Lucien discovered
his home, which was easily recognizable by the magnificent orange-tree. In
order to satisfy the boy's impatience, we made our way through a steep
ravine. Our little party reached the valley just as the bells were ringing for
vesper prayers.

Page 358

The sun was setting, and we were wrapped in obscurity; Indians kept
crossing our path at every step, and the lamps were here and there shining
out through the dark. The Rio Bianco barred our passage; but large stones,
placed at intervals in the river, enabled us to cross it almost dry-shod. Then
Gringalet suddenly barked, and darted off like an arrow.
Twenty minutes after, we entered Orizava by some of the side streets, to
prevent a crowd following at our heels. When we were about fifty paces
from our house, Lucien and l'Encuerado darted off at a racing pace; they
found all the inmates of our home assembled on the threshold. Gringalet
had announced our arrival.
When I entered the court-yard, Lucien and his mother were sobbing in
one another's arms; Emile, Hortense, and Amelie were grouped round the
basket, on which Janet and Verdet were sitting. I noticed, standing in a
corner, the cases which had been intrusted to Torribio.
L'Encuerado came and leaned against the door of the room, twisting the
broad brim of his hat quite out of shape.
"If it had not been for him," I said to my wife, "we should have died!"
The brave Indian stooped and kissed the hands of his mistress.
My children, who had gone out for a few minutes, now burst into the
room; they had ransacked the basket, and were disputing for poor Rougette,
who was placed in the fountain in the garden. Janet and Verdet, perched on
the back of a chair, stammered the names of Hortense and Emile, as well as
could be hoped. The two children became pale with pleasure and surprise.
Just at this moment, Master Job, introduced by Gringalet, came and sat
down on the carpet, and allowed the children to caress him.
It was delightful to sit down to table surrounded by all the beings dearest
to my heart. L'Encuerado kept praising Lucien, who continued exciting his
mother's emotion by relating to her the principal incidents of our journey.
"I am sure, mamma, that you will let me go with papa another time,"
said Lucien. "Our collection is not finished yet, and it must be completed
sooner or later."

Page 359

The young naturalist might be recognized in this question, for the
collector is ever insatiable.
His poor mother shook her head, and embraced her boy without
replying. But her silence seemed to show that she would not willingly
expose her son to the perils of a fresh journey.

FOOTNOTES:
[A] The jaguar (Leopardus onca, Linn.) is frequently called a tiger in
America. The tiger (Tigris regalis) is not found on that continent.—Ed.
[B] Encuerado, in Spanish, means both naked and clad in leather.
[C] Two grotesque little phenomena were once shown in London and Paris as
specimens of the Aztec race. When I speak of Aztecs, my young readers may
perhaps think I allude to these dwarfs. I will therefore state, once for all, that this
name is intended to apply only to the Indians, the descendants of the fine race
over whom Montezuma was emperor when Cortez conquered them. By
Mexicans, or Creoles, we mean the descendants of the Spanish race.
[D] About threepence.
[E] In the Aztec language, cihuatl signifies "woman," and cohuatl signifies
"serpent."
[F] The Indians that inhabit the vast plains to the north of Mexico all smoke;
from this, doubtless, arises the usual supposition that all American Indians
smoke.—Ed.
[G] In giving utterance to this anathema, l'Encuerado was unknowingly
agreeing with James I., king of England, who published a work against smokers.
[H] The small tapering leaves of the pine are thus called.
[I] Elytra is derived from a Greek word, ἑλυτρου, a sheath.
[J] Thanks to the spheroidal condition of water, discovered by M. Boutigny
(of Evreux).

Page 360

[K] That is, a plant devoid of lobes.
[L] From the Greek καθαρτἡς, "that which purifies." In fact, this bird assists
in cleansing the streets in towns where there is no organization for the purpose.
[M] A celebrated Greek physician in the first century of the Christian era.
[N] Saccophorus Mexicanus.
[O] A very hard substance placed immediately under the upper lip, which
insects use for cutting and tearing their food.
[P] The air-pipes are two vessels, one on each side, extending the whole
length of the body, provided with branches and ramifications. They serve for the
reception and distribution of the air.

Transcriber's Notes:

Obvious punctuation errors repaired.
Both daybreak and day-break were used in this text.
Also used were cayote and coyote.
The remaining corrections made are indicated by
dotted lines under the corrections. Scroll the mouse over
the word and the original text will appear.

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