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Title: Secrets of Wise Men, Chemists and Great Physicians

Author: Wm. K. David

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SECRETS OF WISE
MEN, CHEMISTS AND GREAT PHYSICIANS ***

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SECRETS
OF

WISE MEN, CHEMISTS
AND

GREAT PHYSICIANS.

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY

WM. K. DAVID,
AUTHOR OF

THE SHORT-RULE ARITHMETIC
AND ACCOUNTANT’S REFEREE, PERPETUAL
DISK CALENDARS, ETC.

Thirty-Eight Illustrations.

1889.
WM. K. DAVID
PUBLISHER,
LOCK BOX 507,
CHICAGO.

Title page image

Copyright, 1889,
—By—
W M . K . D AV I D .

The following sent to any part of the world on receipt of price:
SECRETS OF WISE MEN, CHEMISTS,
AND
GREAT PHYSICIANS,
By Wm. K. David.
Bound in cloth, price...............................................................$1.25.

DAVID’S SHORT-RULE ARITHMETIC
AND
ACCOUNTANT’S REFEREE.

A practical work containing the shortest and most simple rules and
labor saving tables ever devised. The most original arithmetical
work published for centuries.
Elegantly bound in cloth and gilt, price....................................$1.50.

DAVID’S DOUBLE-WHEEL PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Giving all dates forever.
Elegant, heavy cardboard, price...............................................$0.50.

DAVID’S CHARM CALENDAR
An elegant little metal pendant for vest chain,
giving all dates for one hundred years.
Including double-wheel card calendar with explanation, price..$1.00.

AGENTS WANTED!

ADDRESS ALL ORDERS TO

WM. K. DAVID
Lock Box 507, CHICAGO, ILL.

Title page verso image

CONTENTS.
PREFACE.
INDEX.
PART I.—MISCELLANEOUS.
PART II.—STAGE ILLUSIONS.
PART III.—MEDICAL.

PREFACE.
It is surprising how many large enterprises and fortunes depend upon some few
simple trade secrets the knowledge of which has baffled competition and
crushed all rivalry. The jealous care with which special information in trade and
manufacture is guarded frequently renders it a monumental task to procure a
single receipt or formula. Some idea, then, may be formed of the vast amount of
labor and expense necessary to compile a work of this character. Books of
recipes are quite numerous, but to the average person the good they contain is
too often buried beneath a mass of wordy rubbish. In the preparation of this
work the object has been to present all the best as well as the latest practical
receipts, prescriptions, and trade secrets. Over a quarter of a million pages of
patent-​office reports, encyclopedias, trade journals, receipt books, and other
special publications have been carefully scrutinized. To the knowledge obtained
from them we include the original matter procured from tradesmen, chemists,
and the published works and private practice of some of the most eminent
physicians both in this country and Europe, a greater portion of which has never
before appeared in print; all of which has been carefully tested where any doubt
existed. It will be found that few, if any, misleading directions have been given.
The prescriptions have been reproduced, after careful thought, in the form in
which they were originally written. In having them filled patronize only honest
and capable druggists. In testing the recipes follow the directions with rigid care,
and practice on a small quantity of the article until you get it right. Realizing that
perfection in anything has never been attained, yet we believe that the work
contains more really practical information for use by the masses in every-​day
life than any similar publication.
Chicago, March, 1889. THE AUTHOR.

INDEX.
PAGE
A Cheap Charcoal Stove 48
Approximate Measures 116
Baking Powders 15
Bay Rum, Best 40
Blood Purifier, Dr. Hamilton’s 120
Blood Purifying Tea 121
Breath Solution 34
Butter Color 125
Care of Teeth, Mouth, and Breath 32
Cascara Cordial 120
Catarrh Remedy, Electric 121
Catarrh Snuff 122
Catarrh Salve 122
Cements and Glue 24
Armenian Glue 24
Glutina Cement 24
Iron Cement 25
Metal, Glass, and Stone Cement 25
Cement, Rubber 123
Chapped Hands, etc., Lotion for 39
Chilblains, Treatment of 42, 43
Cider, Artificial 15
Cleaning Preparations 7
Lightning Grease Renovator 7
Glove-Cleaning Compound 7
Cleaning Tarnished Silverware 8
Cleaning Carpets 8
Universal Stain-Removing Table 9
Cleaning Soiled Wall-paper 12
Cleaning Marble and Tombstones 13
Cleaning Powder for Show-windows, etc. 13

Cologne, Hoyt’s German 41
Common Names of Chemical Substances 117
Copying Paper, Magic 6
Copying Pad, Gelatine 1
Corn and Wart Salve 42
Corn-Killer, German 42
Essential Oils, To Extract 17
Face Lotion, Calamine 39
Fire Extinguishers 4
Fire Hand Grenades 4
Fire Extinguishing Compounds 5
Fire-proofing Compounds 123, 124
Flavoring Extracts 16
Foliotypes 2
Freckles, To Remove 35 to 38
Freezing Mixtures 69 to 71
Furniture Varnish 13
Furniture Polish 14
Gold and Silver Imitations 32
Hair Tonic 41
Hair Grower, Pomade 41
Hair Oil, Cream 41
Hamlin’s Wizard Oil 119
Hektograph 1
Hog Cholera Cure 125
Honey, Artificial 14
How to Make an Incubator 43 to 48
Ice House and Refrigerator 64
Ice Houses, Cheap 66
Ice Chest, Cheap 69
Ice Without an Ice House 69
Inks 20
Black Inks 20, 21
Red Ink 21
Violet Ink 21
Blue Ink 21

Green Ink 21
Copying Ink 21
Indestructible Ink 22
Hektograph Ink 22
White Ink 22
Rubber Stamp Ink 22
Ribbon Ink 22
Marking Ink 22
Indelible Ink 22
Gold and Silver Ink 124
Ink for Writing on Metals 23
Ink Powders 23
Disappearing Ink 23
Invisible Inks 23
Ink Erasing Fluid 24
Kidney and Liver Cure, Warner’s Safe 121
Lemonade Syrup, Artificial 15
Liniments 119
Liniment, Wonder 119
Liniment, Liquid Lightning 119
Liniment, Rarey’s Horse 125
Lip Salve 39
Liver Regulator 120
Manicure Powder 40
Manicure Salve 40
Maple Syrup, Artificial 14
Maple Sugar, Artificial 14
Mead, Genuine New Orleans 15
Medical Department—Prescriptions of eminent physicians, arranged 103
and revised by F. V. Luse, M. D., Chicago, Ill. Diseases arranged
alpha­betic­ally. Authorities quoted: Agnew, Atthill, Bartho­low,
Basham, Beasley, Bibron, Browne, Brown-Séquard, Chapman, Da
Costa, Dewees, Ellis, Fenner, Gerhard, Getchell, Gross, Guy, Harts­‐
horne, Hazard, Hebra, Keyes, Liebreich, Luse, Mackenzie, Milton,
Mitchell, Pancoast, Porcher, Ricord, Ringer, Schafhirt, Smith,
Squibbs, Tanner, Thornton, Trousseau, Waring
Medicated Pads 118

Liver Pad 118
Kidney Pad 118
Lung Pad 118
Merchant’s Gargling Oil 120
Mexican Mustang Liniment 120
Metal and Glass Secrets 28
Hardening Composition for Steel 28
Composition to Toughen Steel 28
Softening Iron or Steel 28
Restoring Burnt Steel 29
Welding Cast Steel 29
To Drill Hardened Steel 29
To Drill Holes in Cast Iron 29
To Solder Ferrules for Tool Handles 29
Soldering Without a Soldering Iron 29
Cleaning Gun-Barrels 29
To Resharpen Old Files 30
Mending Tinware at Home 30
Good Way to Sharpen Razors 30
Razor-Strop Paste 30
Cutting Ovals, etc., on Glass 30
Etching on Glass 30
To Drill and Ornament Glass 31
Moles, to Remove 38
Paints 26
Durable Paint for Roofs 26, 27
Paint for Blackboards 27
Removing Smell of Paint 27
Removing Paint 27
Pastes 25
Paste for Wall-paper 25
Paste for Labeling on Tin 25
Pasting Cloth or Leather to Wood 25
Perry Davis’ Pain Killer 119
Perspiration Powder 42
Phrases and Abbreviations Used in Prescriptions 114, 115

Pimple Lotion 40
Plating Without a Battery 31
Silver-Plating Solution 31
Silvering Powder 31
Gold Plating Solution 31
Nickeling Iron 31
Polishing Preparations 12
Polishing Powder 12
Polishing Pastes and Balls 13
Preservative Compounds 49
Barff’s Boroglyceride 49 to 57
Fickett’s Preservative Compound 57
Howard’s Preservative Compound 58
Preservation of Butter, Lard, etc. 58
Corwin’s Preservative Compound 59
Fruit Juice Preservatives 59
Smoke or Vapor Preserving Compounds 60
Salicylic Acid as a Preservative 60 to 64
Radway’s Ready Relief 120
Red Noses, Preparation for 39
Rose Water, Fine 40
Rubber Patching 123
Rubber Stamps, How to Make 17
Sea Foam, Quillaya 41
Shampoo Compound, Clifford’s 41
Shirts, How to Iron 10
Silos and Ensilage 73 to 84
Stage Illusions 85
The Three-Headed Woman 85 to 87
The Mysterious Voice 87 to 89
An Improved Psycho 89 to 92
Magic Cabinets, Boxes, etc. 92 to 96
The Swinging Half Lady 96 to 98
The Aerial Suspension 99 to 100
The Ghost Illusion 100 to 102
Stamping Patterns 6

Sunburn, to Remove 36
Symbols or Signs Used in Prescriptions 114
Table for Calculating the Period of Utero-Gestation 116
Table to Assist the Beginner in Prescribing Liquids 116
Toilet Preparations 39
Toothache Drops 34
Tooth Powder, Best 33
Tooth Paste, Cherry 34
Toothwash, Antiseptic 34
Transferring Photographs 6
Transferring Embroidery 7
Transferring Leaves 7
Vermin Exterminators 19
Phosphorus Paste 19
Roach and Moth Exterminator 19
Moth Powder 19
Bedbug Poison 20
Poison Fly Paper 20
Sticky Fly Paper 20
Mosquito and Fly Frightener 20
Washing Fluid, Liebig’s 10
Washing Bluing, Liquid 11
Washing Soaps, Family 11
Best Soft Soap 11
Hard Soap with Lard 11
White Hard Soap with Tallow 12
Water Baths 72, 73
Water-proofing Cloth and Canvas 123
Whitewash, Brilliant Stucco 26
Wood Stains 27
Staining Wood Rose Color 27
Ebonizing Wood 27
Imitation of Cedar 28
Hard Coating for Wood 28
Worcestershire Sauce 125

PART I.—MISCELLANEOUS.

Gelatine Copying Pad.
[HEKTOGRAPH.]

By this process a letter, postal card, drawing, or other manuscript can be
duplicated from sixty to one hundred times from one original. Reproductions
from the copying pad are now admitted in the mails as third-​class matter, i. e.,
one cent for every two ounces or fraction thereof. A soft, gelatinous composition,
similar to that used in making printers’ rollers, is made and poured into shallow
pans of the required size. The pans should be made of stout zinc one-half inch
deep on the inside, with a lid or cover. The length and breadth of the pans is
determined by the class of copying to be done. Always make the pan slightly
larger than the paper used. The three sizes given below will answer most
purposes:
Postal card size 4×6 inches.
Note paper size 1
6 2 ×10 inches.
Full letter size 9×12 inches.
The composition is made as follows:
ounces
Good glue 4
av.
ounces
Glycerine 16
av.
fluid
Water 8
ounces.
Break up the glue and soak in the water for a few hours, then heat by water-bath
until melted. Next add the glycerine and heat together for some time to
evaporate part of the water, and then strain into the pan, which should be placed
perfectly level and filled about two-thirds full; skim with a card to free from
bubbles, and set away to cool. An improvement consists in adding one ounce of
carbonate of barium to the fluid while warm. The composition should be made
somewhat softer for winter use than for summer, which can be done by adding a

little larger proportion of glycerine. Another way to make the composition is to
soak over night in cold water best gelatine or glue 1 part, and the excess of water
poured off. The glue is then warmed in a water-bath with the addition of from 10
to 12 parts of glycerine, to which may be added 4 to 6 parts of finely ground
heavy spar, and one part dextrine thoroughly mixed by constant stirring. (In
summer less glycerine.)
The letter or sketch to be duplicated is written on a sheet of paper with ink
specially prepared for the purpose (see inks). For the original it is best to use
smooth, well-​sized writing paper, allowing the ink to dry without using a blotter.
After writing the original place it face downward on the pad, and rub it gently
with the hand to insure contact at every point. Let it remain from two to six
minutes, according to the number of copies you wish to print. In cold weather it
should be left longer, as it requires more time for the composition to absorb the
ink. Remove the original carefully, and a reversed impression will be observed
on the pad. To take off copies lay dry sheets of paper on the reversed impression,
press gently, and remove quickly.
When you have taken all the copies you require wash the ink from the surface at
once with a sponge and plenty of lukewarm water; never use hot water. The
surface of the composition will allow considerable rubbing without fear of
tearing it, if not done roughly and carelessly. Be sure your sponge is free from
sand and grit, and also avoid scratching with the finger nails. Always wash the
surface with a sponge before using, and dry with a newspaper. In cold weather if
the composition feels chilled it will not absorb the ink properly, and the copies
will be faint unless it be carefully warmed to a moderate temperature. Attention
to these details will produce the most gratifying results.

Foliotypes.
Horace M. Engle, Esq., of Marietta, Pa., has devised a method of taking leaf-
prints of marked beauty, which he terms “foliotypes,” some specimens of which
he sent to Dr. Gray, the eminent botanist, who pronounced the process a new
way, and advised him to send an account of it to the Botanical Gazette, which he
generously did. We have employed the method according to the explanation
there given (which we reprint in full) with the most delightful results, having
secured prints of some beautiful leaves which are faithful to nature in color and
outline, with all their delicate tracery: “The method is of actual usefulness to the

botanist, as well as a refining recreation for others who love Nature ‘on general
principles.’ For illustrating monographs and similar papers, where the number is
too limited to warrant an expensive lithograph; for identifying a rare specimen,
or as an adjunct to an herbarium, combining portability, unalterability, and
beauty withal the method seems particularly fitted. But aside from this others
may find a delightful and instructive recreation in taking prints of the entire flora
of the old farm, the trees of a certain grove, the native annuals of a county, the
ferns of a State, or any other special field that seems most inviting. Such copies
may be taken in a blank book suited to the purpose, or, better, take them on
single sheets of uniform size, as in this way imperfect copies may be thrown out,
and when the work is completed they may be named, classified, and bound,
making a volume of real value and worthy of just pride.
“The process consists in using the leaf for producing an impression as a printer
uses type, the ink being green, and the pressure applied either by hand or with a
press. There will be needed for the work (1) a small ink roller such as printers
use for inking type by hand in taking proofs; (2) a stout window glass (10×12 is
a good size) fastened securely (not glued, as it may warp and break,) to an
evenly planed board about twice its surface, say 10×24. A small quantity of the
ink is put on the glass and spread with a knife, after which it is distributed evenly
by going over in all directions with the ink roller. When this has been carefully
done the leaf to be copied is laid on a piece of waste paper and inked by
applying the roller once or more with moderate pressure. This leaves a film of
ink on the veins and network of the leaf, which should then be placed on a piece
of blank paper and considerable pressure applied for a few moments. When the
leaf is removed from the paper the work is done.
“To get the best results several points must be carefully noted. Get a quarter or
half a pound of dark green ink, which is put up in collapsible tubes costing from
fifty cents to $2 per pound, according to quality. As sold it is invariably too thick
for this purpose, and should be thinned by adding several drops of balsam of
copaiba to as much ink as may be taken on a salt spoon. Much depends on the
proper consistency of the ink. In inking the leaf is liable to curl on the roller, but
it should part readily from it. In case it sticks tightly the ink is too thick. Take
care that the ink is evenly distributed on the glass and roller, as it is essential that
each part of the leaf receives an equal coating of ink. If the leaf is large ink it
part by part, keeping the roller well supplied. A roller three inches long, costing

forty cents, will answer for all small leaves and branches of plants. Clean the
roller and glass with benzine after using. If the leaf is finely veined the lower
surface makes the better print, but if the veins are coarse and large the upper
surface may be used. If the specimen is fleshy or brittle allow it to wilt until it
becomes more pliable, or if necessary it may be pressed and dried first. In most
cases the best copy is obtained after taking one or two impressions, as the leaf
takes the ink better after several applications. A good quality of unsized paper
that is made slightly damp by placing between sheets of moist newspaper is best
for general work, but in other cases well sized paper will take a copy that will
allow a foliotype (may I coin the word?) to bear inspection side by side with a
good lithograph. I find a copying press very valuable in making the impression,
especially if the leaf is at all coriaceous. If it be soft it should be covered with a
few thicknesses of newspaper. If it is irregular in thickness, paper may be laid
over the thin parts, so that equal pressure is received. This is necessary with all
leaves that have thick stems. If the branch is very irregular or delicate, or in the
absence of a press of any kind, the specimen may be covered with several layers
of paper, and held in place by one hand while the pressure is applied by the
thumb or palm of the other hand as required.
“These particulars are as complete as practicable. Experiments will lead to many
improvements in details. Employ tact and neatness, and you will be surprised at
the result.”

Fire-Extinguishers.
Hand Grenades.
Prof. F. S. Kedzie of the Michigan State Agricultural College, after a series of
analyses and experiments, draws some important conclusions as to the value of
hand-​grenades, in a paper which he publishes in the Chicago Sanitary News. A
Harden hand-​grenade was opened, and the solution contained qualitatively
analyzed. It consisted of common salt, sulphate of lime, and a small amount of
acetate of soda. The principal ingredient was common salt.
The effort was made to determine (1) whether the solution in the grenades had
any more extinguishing power than water; (2) if the solution had extinguishing
power greater than water, what was the essential ingredient in the solution. The
question that first arose regarding the composition of the grenades was: Did they

contain carbon dioxide gas or any substance that would give up the gas by being
heated? Opening the grenades under water and collecting the gas that escaped it
was found that the average amount of carbon dioxide contained was about one
cubic inch per grenade. Boiling the solution liberated a slight amount of gas in
addition; but altogether the gas was not enough to be of any practical benefit in
extinguishing fire. It was then certain that the extinguishing power was in the
solution itself. Replacing the solution in the grenade with pure water the
extinguishing power, while greater than water thrown from a dish upon flaming
boards, was still much less than the power exerted by the solution.
By a careful series of trials it was found that the essential ingredient was
common salt. From a number of experiments it was found that when a grenade,
or a bottle containing a strong brine, was broken in the midst of the burning
kerosene the flames were almost instantly extinguished. A vapor seemed to
spread in all directions from where the salt solution struck the board,
extinguishing the flame as it went. Strong solutions were also made of sulphate
of soda, hyposulphite of soda, borax (biborate of soda), and bicarbonate of soda
and tried as fire extinguishers. Some worked as well, but none any better, than
common salt in extinguishing fire. The experiment was then made of charging
the bottles with brine and generating carbon dioxide by adding lime dust and
sulphuric acid and corking tightly. No practical increase in extinguishing power
from this addition was noticed. In most instances the carbon dioxide gas escaped
from the bottles inside of four days, proving that it is impracticable to attempt to
use glass vessels with corks as a means of storing CO2 under pressure for fire
extinguishing.
The conclusion reached from these and many more experiments was that the
Harden grenade solution possesses much greater extinguishing power than water
alone, and that it owed this power to common salt held in solution. We then
constructed some home-​made grenades, using flat bottles bound together side by
side with wire. Using two bottles in this way insures their being broken in
striking the burning body, which would not always occur when only one bottle is
used. Bottles thus charged with brine and bound together were broken side by
side with the Harden grenades and found to be equally valuable.
It thus appears from the experiment that any person can construct as good and
effective grenades as those offered in the market at $7 and $10 per dozen.
Bottles filled with brine and placed around the premises will afford considerable

protection, especially when used upon the flames when the fire just begins. Salt
solutions have the further advantage of not being easily frozen—never enough to
burst the bottles.
The Lewis hand fire-extinguisher was next investigated. This consists of a tin
tube about two feet long containing thirty-four fluid ounces of soda in weak
caustic ammonia. From the trials made we could not notice any appreciable
superiority over the salt solution as used in the Harden grenade. It has the
disadvantage of not being made to break by being thrown, but must be opened
by having a cork extracted from one end of the tube, requiring a smart jerk. The
solution is then sprinkled on the fire by the operator.
We herewith append a number of fire-extinguishing compounds, all of which are
highly recommended by various authorities:
Munich Fire-Extinguishing Powder.
per
Common salt 43
cent.
per
Alum 19.5
cent.
per
Glauber’s salt 5.1
cent.
per
Soda 3.5
cent.
per
Water glass 6.6
cent.
per
Water 22.3
cent.

Richardson’s Fire-Extinguishing Powder.
Alum 1
4 2 pounds.
Common salt 10 pounds.
Glauber’s salt 1 pound.
Soda 1 pound.
Water glass 1
1 2 pounds.

Vienna Fire-Extinguishing Powder.
Green vitriol 4 parts.

Ammonium sulphate 16 parts.
Water 100 parts.
Proteau’s Fire-Extinguishing Powder.
Carbonate of soda 8 pounds.
Alum 4 pounds.
Borax 3 pounds.
Carbonate of potash 1 pound.
Silicate of soda solution 24 pounds.
1
Mix thoroughly and add 1 2 pounds of this mixture to each gallon of water, when
required.

Transferring Photographs.
[ON GLASS.]

This beautiful and valuable process of transferring photographs in plain or
colored work has been taught at high prices under various high-​sounding names,
such as “Roman art,” etc. Photographs can be transferred and preserved for years
which would have been soiled, faded, and ruined if allowed to remain on the
card.
Separate the paper print from the background or card by steaming it, after which
dry thoroughly. Warm the glass slightly and coat evenly with balsam or negative
varnish and place the print face downward on the surface thus prepared. After
smoothing it carefully set away in a cool place until the varnish has hardened.
Then apply water, and with a soft piece of gum rubber rub off the paper so as to
leave the photographic image on the varnished glass.

Stamping Patterns.
Draw the pattern upon heavy paper and perforate with small holes all the lines
with the point of some sharp instrument, dust the following powder through the
perforations, remove the pattern and pass a warm iron over the fabric, when the
pattern will become fixed. Any desired color can be used, such as Prussian blue,
chrome green, yellow, vermilion, etc.:
Fine white rosin 2 ounces.

Gum sandarac 4 ounces.
Color 2 ounces.
Powder very fine, mix, and pass through a sieve.

Magic Paper.
[FOR TRANSFERRING AND COPYING.]

This paper is really a valuable article, and is manufactured and sold under
various names, such as the “stylograph,” “rapid copying process,” etc. It is used
principally by salesmen in keeping a record of their sales, as three copies can be
taken simultaneously with one writing. In this way traveling salesmen can with
one writing give a copy of his sale to his customer (which is frequently
demanded), another he can send to his firm, and retain the third one for his own
use. It is used in a similar manner in nearly all the large stores, and by many
individuals in their business correspondence. It is also valuable for transferring
figures in embroidery and taking impressions of leaves for herbariums, etc.,
which it does beautifully, but for the latter purpose nothing equals the foliotype
method previously explained.
The paper is made by mixing pure lard or sweet oil to the consistence of cream
with either of the following paints, the color of which is desired: Prussian blue,
lamp black, Venetian red, or chrome green, either of which should be rubbed
with a knife on a plate or flat surface until smooth. Use rather thin but firm
paper; put on with a sponge and wipe off as dry as possible. Lay the sheets
between uncolored paper or newspaper, and press by laying books or some other
flat substance upon them until the surplus oil is absorbed, when it is ready for
use.
For Copying Letters and Orders.—Either two or three copies can be made at
one time, as desired. To make two copies place a sheet of the magic paper
between the two sheets selected for the order, bill, or letter, and write upon the
upper sheet with a hard lead pencil (the harder the lead the cleaner the copy). It
is best to place a piece of hard cardboard under all the sheets while writing.
To make three copies use two sheets of magic paper, placing one between the
first and second leaves and the other between the second and third leaves.
Proceed as in taking two copies by writing upon the top leaf. A stout, thin linen
paper will produce the best results, but almost any kind will do.

To Transfer Embroidery Patterns.—Place a piece of thin paper over the
embroidery to prevent soiling; then lay on the magic paper and put on the cloth
you wish to take the copy on to embroider; pin fast and rub over with a spoon-
handle, and every part of the raised figure will show upon the plain cloth.
To Take Impressions of Leaves.—Place the leaf between two sheets of the magic
paper and rub it over hard; then take the leaf out and place it between two sheets
of white paper; rub again, and you will have a beautiful impression of both sides
of the leaf or flower.

Cleaning Preparations.
Lightning Grease Renovator.
An excellent general preparation for removing grease, paint, etc.
Castile soap (cut fine) 4 ounces.
Hot water 1 quart.
Dissolve, after which add and mix thoroughly,
Aqua ammonia 4 ounces.
Sulphuric ether 1 ounce.
Glycerine 1 ounce.
Alcohol 1 ounce.
Water 1 quart.
An elegant general preparation for cleaning gloves, silks, etc., is made as
follows:
Deodorized gasoline (or benzine) 1 pint.
1 fluid
Alcohol, chloroform, and ether, each
2 ounce.

Mix, and perfume with cologne, lavender, or any desired odor. Do not use near a
flame.
“Gantein” for Cleansing Gloves.—The preparation sold under this name is
made as follows: Dissolve 6 parts of soap in 2 parts of water; add 4 parts of
1
bleaching liquor and 4 part of aqua ammonia. Rub the gloves with the fluid until
clean.

Cleaning Tarnished Silverware.
[IN USE BY ALL LEADING JEWELERS.]

Cyanide potassium 3 ounces.
Soft water 2 gallons.
Mix and dissolve. Label it “poison,” and place out of the reach of children. Have
the article clean and free from grease; dip in solution till tarnish is off, but no
longer (and under no circumstances leave it in too long). After immersion the
article must be taken out and thoroughly rinsed in a number of waters (warm
preferred), then dried with a soft rag or sawdust.
Another method, which is safe and cheap, consists in using a saturated solution
of hyposulphite of soda to which a little bolted whiting has been added. Apply
with a brush or cloth until the tarnish is removed.

Clark’s Wash for Carpets.
1
Solution 1.—Dissolve 10 parts of soap in 20 of water, and add 3 2 parts of soda
and one-half part of liquid ammonia and spirit of wine.
Solution 2.—Is the actual cleansing liquid, and consists of 4 parts of liquid
ammonia and 3 of alcohol diluted with water.
The last solution is first used, and when the dirt loosened by it has been removed
the soap solution is applied. Carpets thus treated regain their original colors in
all their freshness, the entire operation of washing and drying a large carpet
requiring but two hours, and the carpet need not be taken up.

Universal Stain Table.
Showing at a glance what means to employ in removing any kind of stain from
any kind of fabric. Red acid stains are destroyed by ammonia, followed by
thorough washing with water. Burn stains of nitric acid are permanent. Great
care must be observed when ether and benzine are used. Keep the open bottle
and the fabric being cleaned away from an open fire or blaze. The ether
especially is so volatile that an open bottle will take fire from a gas-jet or blaze
several feet away if the draft is right. You cannot be too careful.

UNIVERSAL STAIN-REMOVING TABLE.

kind of colored fabrics.
From Linen. Silk.
stain. Cotton. Wool.
Sugar,
gelatine,
Washing simply in water.
blood,
albumen.
Benzine, ether,
spirit of sal-
Soap-water, Tepid soap- Soap-water, spirit ammoniac,
Fat
alkaline lyes. water. sal-ammoniac. potash,
magnesia, chalk,
yolk of egg.
Benzine, ether,
Varnish and
Oil of turpentine, benzine, and finally soap. soap; careful
oil-paint.
rubbing.
Stearine. Alcohol of 95 per cent.
Vegetable
Sulphurous As above,
colors, red Washing in warm soap-water or
vapors, warm rubbing gently
wine, fruits, liquid ammonia.
chlorine water. and carefully.
red ink.
Tartaric acid; the
older the stain
Alizarine Diluted solution of tartaric acid,
the more As above.
ink. if the fabric permits.
concentrated the
solution.
Repeated The same as for
Warm oxalic acid
washing with cotton, but diluted Nothing can be
solution, diluted
Rust and dissolved hydrochloric acid done; all
hydrochloric
gall-nut ink. citric acid, if if the wool is attempts only
acid, and finally
the fabric is naturally increase the evil.
tin filings.
dyed well. coloured.
Lime and Pouring diluted nitric acid drop by drop upon the
Washing simply
alkaline stain. The previously moistened is rubbed off with
in water.
lyes. the finger.
Tannin, Eau de Javelle, More or less concentrated chlorine water,
green nut warm chlorine according to the nature and tint of the fabric, and
shells. water alternate washing with water.

concentrated
solution of
tartaric acid.
Same as for
colored fabrics;
Soap, oil of Rubbing with lard, then soaping,
Coal-tar, use benzine
turpentine, and after a while washing
wagon- instead of turp.;
alternating with a alternately with oil of turpentine
grease. jet of water must
jet of water. and water.
fall on back of
stain.

Liebig’s Washing Fluid.
SAVING HALF THE WASH-BOARD LABOR.

Sal soda 1 pound.
Stone lime 1
pound.
2

Water 5 quarts.
Boil a short time, stirring occasionally; then let it settle and pour off the clear
liquid into a bottle or jug and cork for use. Soak your clothes over night in
simple water; wring out and soap wrist-bands, collars, and dirty or stained
places. Have your boiler filled with water, and when at scalding heat put in a
teacupful of the fluid, then put in your clothes and boil for half an hour, after
which rub lightly through one suds only, rinsing well in the bluing water, and all
is complete.
For each additional boiler of clothes add half a cup of the fluid; of course boiling
in the same water through the whole washing. If more water is needed in the
boiler for the last clothes dip it from the sudsing tub. Soak your woolen and
calico in the suds from which you have washed the white clothes, while hanging
them out dipping in some of the boiling water from the boiler, if necessary; then
wash out the woolen and calico as usual—of course washing out woolen goods
before you do the calico. The fluid brightens instead of fading the colors.—Dr.
Chase.
Premium Washing Fluid.—This fluid is equal to the best that can be prepared,
and as it is recommended to be used in a simpler manner than the foregoing
many will doubtless prefer it:

Sal soda 4 pounds.
Borax 2 ounces.
Sal tartar 1 ounce.
Aqua ammonia 1
pint.
2

Spirit of camphor 2 ounces.
Oil of turpentine 1 ounce.
Hot water 6 pints.
Dissolve the sal soda, borax, and sal tartar in the hot water and add the other
ingredients. Soak the clothes over night in water to which has been added a
table-spoonful of the fluid for each gallon of water; also add a little in washing
water.

How I Iron Shirts.
BY MRS. HUSBANDPLEASER.

Take two ounces of spermaceti, one ounce of white wax, one ounce of paraffine.
Mix and put in a saucer over a tea-kettle in which water is boiling, until melted,
stirring several times. Then let it get cold, after which put in a clean box for use.
To make the starch: For two shirts, collars, and cuffs take one table-spoonful of
starch dissolved in water; shave a piece of the above into it the size of a bean.
Pour boiling water into it until thick, cook twenty minutes and set away to cool.
Take one table-spoonful of starch, dissolve it in cold water, and when the boiled
starch gets lukewarm pour it over it, stir well, and strain. Have the garments dry
and lay the starch on the wrong side and work it through. Be careful that the
starch is rubbed in until the right side is wet all over. When well saturated roll up
tight in a clean cloth. They need not lay but a few minutes. Stretch them on a
bosom-board, and with a damp cloth rub out all the wrinkles. Lay a fine cloth
over and iron it twice. If a collar or cuff turn it over and do the same on the other
side. Take off the cloth and iron perfectly dry. If the bosom has pleats raise them
before ironing dry and dry under them. After the bosom is perfectly dry (for this
polishing process you need a good, smooth, hard board about two by one and a
half feet—the harder the better—a marble slab of that size is better still), put the
bosom on the bare board, dip a clean white cloth in water, wring almost dry, rub
lightly over the bosom, then rub it with a dry cloth, and polish with back of iron
or with polishing iron. If any dirt gets on rub off with a damp cloth and polish

again. The polishing is not necessarily done the same day they are ironed. If your
time is limited, or your work interrupted by callers or other duties, lay them
aside after having ironed them perfectly dry.

Liquid Washing Bluing.
Soluble Prussian blue 1 ounce.
Oxalic acid 1
ounce.
4

Boiling water 1 quart.
This makes the very best quality of bluing at a slight cost.

Family Washing Soaps.
We see no reason why every economical housewife should not profit by these
simple methods of preparing cheap laundry soap, as they are the results of
practical experience.
Best Soft Soap.
Take 4 pounds of white bar soap, cut it fine, and dissolve by heating in 4 gallons
of soft water, after which add 1 pound of sal soda. Dissolve and mix thoroughly.
If it is desired the soap can be made thicker by adding less water.
Hard Soap With Lard.
Sal soda and lard, each 6 pounds.
Stone lime 3 pounds.
Soft water 4 gallons.
Dissolve the lime and soda in the water by boiling, stirring, and settling; pour
off, then return to the kettle (brass or copper), add the lard and boil it until it
becomes soap. Then pour into a dish or molds, and when cool cut it into bars and
dry it.
White Hard Soap With Tallow.
Take 2 pounds each of fresh-slacked lime, sal soda, and tallow; dissolve the soda
in 1 gallon of boiling soft water, stirring occasionally every few hours after
which let it settle, pouring off the clear liquor and boiling the tallow therein until
it is all dissolved; cool it in a flat box or pan, and cut into bars or cakes as

desired. It may be perfumed with oil of sassafras or any other perfume desired,
stirring it in when cool.

Cleaning Soiled Wall-paper.
The old form of this process was to use stale bread or bread baked to a proper
consistency, but it seldom produces satisfactory results except in the hands of
experts, and then it is an impossibility to keep from scratching the surface of the
paper with the sharp points of the crust. A dough preparation known only to a
few experts engaged in cleaning walls by contract, and who have been known to
make from $5 to $25 per day, is now used, which is far superior in every way to
anything yet discovered. The walls can be cleaned over and over again, each
time appearing as bright as new paper.
Three
Wheat flour
parts.
One
Powdered prepared whiting
part.
Mix the flour and whiting thoroughly, and add enough water to bring it to the
consistency of ordinary dough. Use by taking a small piece—about twice the
size of a hen’s egg. Press against the wall and remove the dirt by making long
strokes. After making a stroke knead the dirt into the dough, and continue doing
so until it is useless. A quart of the preparation used in this manner will clean the
walls of a good-sized room.
When it is desired to keep the ingredients of the composition a secret a coloring
matter may be added to assist in mystifying. When the walls are discolored by
grease or marks where people have rested their heads, mix pipeclay to the
consistency of cream, lay it on the spot and allow it to remain until the following
day, when it may be easily removed with a penknife or brush.

Polishing Preparations.
Polishing Powder.—For polishing silver and nickel-plated ware, brass, copper,
etc.:
Fossil silica 2 ounces.
Rouge (or fine crocus martis) 1
ounce.
2

Prepared chalk 1
pound.
2

Rub the fossil silica to a fine powder and thoroughly mix with the chalk. This
will not scratch the finest surface. Use by rubbing with a damp sponge or rag,
and finish dry with chamois skin or dry rag.
Polishing Pastes.
Fossil silica 1 ounce.
Petrolatum 1
pound.
2

Cotton-seed oil (or sweet oil) 1 ounce.
Subcarbonate of iron 3 ounces.
Essential oil of almonds 30 minims.
Reduce the fossil silica to a very fine powder and mix it with the iron; melt the
petrolatum, add the cotton-seed oil, stir in the powders, and while cooling add
the flavoring oil and stir until ready to set, then run into boxes similar to
ordinary blacking boxes. Apply with a soft rag dipped in the paste, and finish
with a clean cloth. Prepared chalk or whiting can be used instead of fossil silica.
The paste does its work faster than the polishing powder, and if the articles are
very much corroded it is preferable.
Another excellent paste, which can be put in boxes or formed into balls and
allowed to harden, is to take finely powdered rotten-stone, sift it thoroughly
through muslin or a hair sieve, and knead with a sufficient quantity of soft soap
1 3
to form a stiff paste. To 2 pound of this mass add 1 4 fluid ounces of oil of
turpentine.
Cleaning Powder for Show Windows, Mirrors, Etc.
Moisten calcined magnesia with pure benzine. The mixture should be preserved
in bottles with glass stoppers, as the benzine is very volatile. Use by placing a
little of the mixture on a wad of cotton and apply to the glass.

Marble Cleaning.
Rub with muriatic acid diluted with water, care being taken that it is not too
strong. Repeat the process till clean, then wash with clear water. When the
marble is very dirty, as in the case of old tombstones, use the following:

Muriatic acid 2 ounces.
Acetic acid 1 ounce.
Verdigris 1 drachm.
Mix, apply with a brush, and sponge off with clear water. Repeat until clean,
then polish with pumice stone continually moistened with water as you proceed.

Furniture Varnish.
White wax 5 ounces.
Potash 1
7 2 ounces.

Boil lightly for fifteen minutes, allow to cool, and then skim off the wax which
floats on the surface. Apply the wax to the furniture, and by rubbing it an hour
afterward with a woolen cloth a beautiful luster will be the result.

French Furniture Polish.
This is the best article that can be made for restoring the luster and color of
furniture:
fluid
Butter of antimony 3
ounces.
fluid
Linseed oil 12
ounces.
fluid
Alcohol 6
ounces.
ounces
Shellac 2
av.
fluid
Oil of turpentine 10
ounces.
Hydrochloric acid 1 ounce.
Dissolve the shellac in the alcohol and add the linseed oil and turpentine; then
add the hydrochloric acid and butter of antimony, which has been previously
mixed, and thoroughly mix all together. Apply with a tuft of cotton, and finish by
rubbing down hard with Canton flannel or a woolen rag.

Maple Syrup and Sugar.

[ARTIFICIAL.]

It is an astonishing fact that nine-tenths of the so-called maple sugar and maple
syrup sold as the genuine articles are nothing more than clever imitations. The
method of making the best quality of these imitations—and which really defies
detection of a majority of dealers and consumers—is very cheap and simple, a
gallon of the syrup costing about fifty cents and the sugar simply the cost of
ordinary, cheap sugar. We were told by a Mr. Baldwin of Kentucky, a son of the
reputed discoverer of the secret for producing the maple flavoring, that various
manufacturers of imitation maple sugar and syrup in the large cities had paid his
father thousands of dollars in royalties for his discovery.
Procure a quantity of the rough outside bark of what is known as scaly-bark
hickory tree. Take about 3 or 4 pounds of the bark and boil in one-half gallon of
water until it is reduced to a quart, then strain and add 5 pounds of common
brown or yellow sugar; heat again until thoroughly dissolved and it is ready for
use. To make imitation maple syrup simply boil the syrup until it is reduced back
to sugar again, and when it is made properly the flavor and appearance of the
genuine article is obtained.

Artificial Honey.
Clarified sugar 10 pounds.
Pure honey (strained) 3 pounds.
Soft water 3 pints.
Cream tartar 1 drachm.
Essence peppermint 10 drops.
Dissolve the sugar in the water by the aid of gentle heat; take off the scum, and
the honey and the cream tartar previously dissolved in a little water; bring to the
boiling point, stir well, then let it cool.

Artificial Lemonade Syrup.
Loaf sugar 2 pounds.
Citric acid 2 ounces.
Concentrated essence of lemon 2 drachms
Essence of almonds 20 drops.
Hot water 2 pints.

Dissolve the citric acid in hot water, add the sugar, and lastly the lemon and
almonds. Stir well, cover with a cloth, and leave until cold. Two table-spoonfuls
to a tumbler of cold water will make an excellent drink as refreshing as the best
lemonade.

Best Artificial Cider.
Water 25 gallons.
Honey (or fine syrup) 1
1 4 gallons.
Catechu (pure) 6 drachms
Alum 1
1 4 ounces.
Yeast 1
pint.
2

Ferment for fifteen days in a warm place, then add:
Bitter almonds 2 ounces.
Cloves 2 ounces.
Whisky 6 pints.
Burnt sugar, to color.
If acid should be in excess add honey or sugar; if too sweet add cider vinegar to
suit the taste.

Genuine New Orleans Mead.
Sarsaparilla root (contused) 8 ounces.
Licorice 8 ounces.
Cassia bark (contused) 8 ounces.
Cloves 2 ounces.
Coriander seeds 3 ounces.
Ginger 8 ounces.
Boil for fifteen minutes in eight gallons of water and let stand till cold to settle
down, then strain through a flannel rag, and add to it in the fountain:
Syrup 12 pints.
Honey 4 pints.
Tincture of ginger 4 ounces.
Solution of citric acid 4 ounces.

Add enough water to complete ten gallons, and charge with gas.—Prof. E. S.
Wayne, in Kilner’s Formulary.

Baking Powders.
Pure baking powders are very simple in composition, care being used in
preparing them and procuring pure ingredients. According to the advertised
statements of the various leading manufacturers we are forced to make our own
if we desire a pure and wholesome article. As the essential ingredients of the best
baking powder are baking soda and cream of tartar we need only be careful in
buying of honest grocers or druggists who will guarantee their purity. It is not
difficult to procure pure soda, but the cream of tartar is frequently adulterated,
and care must be used in its purchase.
It is very important that the materials used must be finely powdered, perfectly
dry, and thoroughly mixed. For household purposes a patent sifter is the best to
use in mixing. Run the articles through a number of times and free from all
lumps. The ingredients can be dried by placing them in an oven for a short time
before mixing.
Baking Powder No. 1.
Pure cream of tartar 2 pounds.
Pure bicarbonate of soda 1 pound.
Corn starch 2 ounces.
This is the best that can be made. One to two tea-spoonfuls to a quart of flour.
Baking Powder No. 2.
A cheaper powder, but superior to the majority of powders you will buy, is
prepared as follows:
Pure cream of tartar 2 pounds.
Pure bicarbonate of soda 2 pounds.
Tartaric acid 6 ounces.
Corn starch 1 pound.
Best flour 4 pounds.
Use two tea-spoonfuls to a quart of flour. Do not be afraid of the tartaric acid, as
it is harmless. It is best to keep your baking powder in a well-stopped jar or

bottle. Flour, terra alba, alum, and chalk are the chief ingredients used in the
adulteration of cream of tartar. To determine the admixture of flour rub a few
grains of iodine with one ounce of the suspected cream of tartar; if so adulterated
a blue tint to the mixture will be produced; or by dissolving a small quantity in
water you can prove its presence by the stickiness. Chalk may be determined by
its effervescing on the addition of diluted acids; alum by dissolving in hot water
and allowing the solution to chrystallize; terra alba and other clays by their
insolubility in a hot solution of caustic potassa.

Flavoring Extracts.
The profits to manufacturers and dealers on these household necessities are very
large, and the prudent consumer will take advantage of the directions here given.
Extracts of lemon and vanilla are most frequently used; nutmeg, mace,
cinnamon, etc., are usually used dry by grating.
Best Lemon Extract.
Best deodorized alcohol 1 pint.
Oil of lemon 1 ounce.
Cut the peels of two lemons into fine pieces and add to the alcohol and oil of
lemon. Let stand for a few days and filter through a felt bag or filtering paper.
Extract of Vanilla.
Extract of vanilla is prepared direct from the vanilla bean. Use care in the
purchase of the beans, as there are several varieties. The Mexican vanilla beans
have the finest flavor, and the longer the bean, as a rule, the better the extract.
There are other excellent varieties of vanilla beans, but they have a somewhat
ranker flavor than the Mexican. Unscrupulous jobbers and dealers have been
known to soak the whole beans in spirits, practically stealing all their flavor, and
then by drying them place them on the market. They can be detected by their
light color and brittleness. Most of the vanilla extracts sold for flavoring
purposes are adulterated with Tonka beans and other adulterants, some
containing not a particle of vanilla.
The following will make a splendid article, and you know what you are getting
without paying high prices for weak extracts put up in deceptive little panel
bottles. Dishonest manufacturers never yield a point in their efforts to defraud.

Not content with the liberty they take with the contents they employ the bottle-
makers’ art to deceive us in the quantity of the precious stuff:
Vanilla beans 1 ounce.
Sugar 1 ounce.
Cologne spirits (deodorized alcohol) 12 ounces.
Water 4 ounces.
Slit the beans and cut them very fine, then mix them with sugar and bruise until
moderately fine; then mix with spirits and water and put in a warm place; allow
to stand for two weeks (longer the better) shaking every day, and when through
filter. Manufacturers color with caramel or other coloring, but for home use this
is unnecessary.
To Extract Essential Oils.
To extract essential oils from wood, bark, herbs, etc., put a quantity of the herb
or other article into a bottle or jar and pour in a small quantity of ether. Keep in a
cool place several hours, and then fill the bottle with cold water. The essential oil
will rise to the surface, and may be easily separated.

How to Make Rubber Stamps.
The wording of the desired rubber stamp having been correctly set up in
ordinary type, the same is locked up and placed upon a level support. Around it
is put an iron frame, which will determine the shape and size of the matrix.
By means of a soft brush the type as well as all surrounding parts that are to be
covered by the plaster of Paris are well oiled.
For the purpose of making the cast finely ground fresh plaster of Paris is needed;
if of long standing, the same will lose its desirable properties. This plaster of
Paris, of which a sufficient quantity should at one time be mixed to the
consistency of pap, using clear water, is poured over the frame containing the
type in a thin layer, so as to barely cover it. With a stout brush the mixture is
driven into all spaces and interstices, until all details are thoroughly covered.
After this the remaining pap of plaster of Paris is added until the frame is full to
overflowing. The surface is smoothed down after the plaster has settled
somewhat, and in a short while the matrix in the frame may be removed from the
type.

After this it becomes necessary to bake the matrix in an oven for a period of
from four to six hours. When thoroughly baked the matrix should be well
brushed with a thin solution of shellac to impart a smooth surface, and at the
same time greater strength.
The matrix at this stage represents a yellowish-white block, in which the
lettering appears indented, but in proper place. The indentation corresponds to
the height of the letter upon the piece of type or the marks upon a cut, while the
remaining parts should be perfectly smooth and free from holes. This matrix,
obtained by a coating from the type or cut, will serve as the mould for the final
rubber stamp.
Pieces of caoutchouc are cut to the required size and laid upon the matrix. If
pressure is now exerted the soft mass will adjust itself to fill all the spaces and
reproduce the mould invertedly. Indentations become raised matter, and the
whole will show as did primarily the type.
But as the caoutchouc has a tendency to return to its previous shape it becomes
necessary to apply the process called vulcanizing. The object is to impart
hardness to the rubber, and to prevent its losing the form into which it has been
pressed.
To accomplish this the caoutchouc must be heated to a temperature of from 120
to 130 deg. C. As the substance is ordinarily softened by heat it is necessary to
take some means to prevent it from sticking to the mould. For the purpose
soapstone will answer, and the mould, as well as the piece of caoutchouc, should
be well brushed or dusted with this substance.
The duration of the heating varies with the thickness of the rubber sheet. As a
general thing from twenty to thirty minutes ought to be sufficient. It may be
mentioned here that special apparatus can be purchased for pressing and
vulcanizing. The proper vulcanization is of the greatest importance in
determining the durability of the stamp.
All that remains to complete the stamps is the mounting of the rubber plate upon
a suitable base or handle. This is best done either with zinc or with a solution of
caoutchouc in benzine. The surface of the handle, as well as the back part of the
stamps, having been covered with such a solution and well pressed together,
after drying the entire stamp will be ready for use.—Amer. Lith. and Printer.

Vermin Exterminators.
Phosphorus or Luminous Paste.
This is an unequaled preparation for destroying rats, mice, cockroaches, etc. It
attracts them by its luminous appearance and also by its odor, which is very
attractive to all vermin. They eat it with great avidity.
Phosphorus 1
ounce.
2

Armenian bole 1 ounce.
Arsenic 1 ounce.
Oil of rhodium 1
drachm.
2

Tallow 10 ounces.
Rye flour 12 ounces.
Water 12 ounces.
Cook the flour and water to a thin paste; add the phosphorus—previously melted
in a little hot water—and mix; then add the rest and stir until thoroughly mixed.
Other Methods of Destroying Rats.—(1) Mix some fine plaster of Paris with
an equal quantity of flour; put the mixture in the place infested by the vermin
and a vessel full of water beside it. The rats will devour the mixture and then
drink, whereupon the plaster, brought into contact with the water, will become
solid and like a stone in their stomachs, which will cause their deaths. (2) When
a house is infested with rats which refuse to nibble at toasted cheese or the usual
baits, a few drops of oil of rhodium poured on or near the bait will attract them
while the most tempting baits fail. (3) Cover the floor near their holes and place
into their haunts a quantity of caustic potash. This they lick with their tongues,
which makes their mouths sore, and they not only shun this locality, but appear
to tell all the neighboring rats about it. (4) Instead of using chloride of lime or
potash a quantity of tar can be smeared in and around their haunts and they will
disappear. Tar and rats do not agree. If a live rat be caught, smeared with tar, and
allowed to escape into the holes he will do the smearing process thoroughly.
Roach and Moth Exterminator.
Thymol 2 parts.
Salicylic acid 2 parts.
Alcohol 200 parts.

Oil of lemon 1 part.
This new, simple, and cheap preparation makes no stain and kills the vermin
immediately. The odor is not unpleasant, and is quickly removed by airing the
room. Use by sprinkling, or moistening blotting paper with the solution.
Moth Powder.
Lupulin 1 drachm.
Scotch snuff 2 ounces.
Camphor gum 1 ounce.
Black pepper 1 ounce.
Cedar sawdust 4 ounces.
Mix thoroughly and strew among the furs and woolens.
Bedbug Poison.
Corrosive sublimate (in powder) 2 ounces.
Alcohol 1 pint.
Apply with a feather or stick into their hiding places. Label poison, and place all
such compounds out of the reach of children.

Poison Fly Paper.

White arsenic 1 ounce.
Sugar 1
pound.
2

Concentrated lye 1
ounce.
4

Water 1 quart.
Dissolve the concentrated lye in the water, add the sugar and boil the solution,
meanwhile gradually adding the arsenic. While still warm dip porous paper (cut
into small squares) in the solution and dry them. For use place in plates or
saucers partly filled with water where the flies can get at them.
Sticky Fly Paper.
Rosin 8 ounces.
Lard or cotton-seed oil 3 ounces.
Boil together, spread thinly on manilla paper, place another sheet on top, and
when wanted pull them apart and it is ready for use. This is now usually
preferred to the poison paper, as the flies are caught and held and do not die and
drop into food, etc.

Mosquito and Fly Frightener.
Petrolatum 1 ounce.
Paraffine 1
ounce.
8

Oil pennyroyal 1
ounce.
3

Oil of tar 2
ounce.
3

Carbolic acid 2
drachm.
3

Melt the solid ingredients together, and when partly cooled add the other
ingredients. This is an elegant preparation to rub on the hands and face where
flies, mosquitos, gnats, etc., are troublesome.

Inks.
Late improvements in the manufacture of inks are due to the discovery and
cheapening of substances which can be used in preparing them. While good
common writing inks are quite easily procured in the market, still they can be
manufactured much cheaper by the consumer; and then again there are a variety

of special purposes which require inks that are not on sale, and formulas for
making them are very valuable. In this collection we give approved and tested
formulas for everything in the ink line.

Fine Black Ink.
[FROM LOGWOOD.]

A good black ink can be made by boiling 3 pounds of logwood with sufficient
water to leave a residue of 5 quarts. When cold add 3 drachms of yellow
bichromate of potash and stir thoroughly. To prevent thickening add a few drops
of solution of mercury salt. It flows freely from the pen. Its color at first is of a
dark indigo-blue tint, changing soon into a permanent black. A beautiful gloss
may be given to this or any other black ink by adding a strong solution of shellac
and borax.
Fine Black Ink.
[FROM ANILINE.]

Black aniline crystals (negrosine) 1
1 2 ounces.
Dextrine 1 ounce.
Corrosive sublimate 5 grains.
Water 2 quarts.
Dissolve the negrosine in a quart of hot water; dissolve the corrosive sublimate
and dextrine in the remaining quart, and pour all together. This is a splendid ink,
flows freely from the pen, and will keep well.
In making ink use care in buying the best anilines and other ingredients. This is
important.

Fine Red Ink.
Eosine aniline 100 grains.
Water 1 pint.
Simply dissolve the aniline in the water. No better bright, fiery red ink can be
made.
Fine Violet Ink.
Violet aniline 70 grains.
Alcohol 1
ounce.
2

Dextrine 1
ounce.
2

Hot water 1 pint.
Dissolve the aniline in the alcohol and the dextrine in the hot water, and mix
them.

Fine Blue Ink.
Water blue aniline 1 drachm.
Dextrine 1
ounce.
4

Hot water 1 pint.
One-fourth of an ounce of Prussian blue may be used instead of the water blue
aniline.

Fine Green Ink.
Green aniline 1 drachm.
Dextrine 1
ounce.
4

Hot water 1 pint.
Aniline inks of any color can be made in a similar manner. Simply get the
desired color of aniline. Maroon ink may be made by mixing equal quantities of
1
black, blue, and red inks; yellow by adding 1 4 drachms of picric acid to 1 pint of
hot water.
Copying Ink.
Take 1 pint of the violet-black ink and add 1 ounce each of sugar and gum
Arabic. This is for what is called moist copying where a press is used. For what
1
is termed dry copying mix about 3 pint of glycerine to a pint of any good black
ink. The manuscript, if written on glazed paper, will not dry for hours, and will
yield one or two fair, neat, dry copies by simple pressure of the hand. The
writing should not be excessively fine nor the strokes uneven or heavy. The
copies and the original are neater than when water is used.

Gaffard’s Indestructible Ink.
Lampblack 1 part.
Potash water glass 12 parts.
Aqua ammonia 1 part.

Distilled water 38 parts.
The potash water glass should be of the consistency of syrup.

Hektograph Ink.
(SEE PAGE 1.)

A good purple ink to use on the gelatine copying pad, or hektograph, is prepared
as follows:
Methyl violet 1 ounce.
Water 8 ounces.
Glycerine 1 ounce.
Alcohol 1
ounce.
4

Dissolve the methyl-violet in the water and add the glycerine. Gently warm the
solution for an hour, and after cooling add the alcohol.
When black hektograph ink is desired, instead of the methyl-violet use double
the amount of negrosine.

White Ink.
An excellent white ink, which can be used with a pen for writing on colored
cards or paper, may be made as follows:
Flake white 12 drachms
Mucilage of gum Arabic 6 drachms
If too thick add water; if too thin, more mucilage. Shake well while using.

Rubber Stamp Ink.
Aniline (desired color) 1
ounce.
2

Glycerine 2 ounces.

Ribbon Ink.
FOR TYPE-WRITERS, DATING STAMPS, ETC.

Aniline 1
ounce.
2

Alcohol 4 ounces.
Glycerine 7 ounces.
Water 4 ounces.

Dissolve the aniline in the alcohol and add the other ingredients.
Marking Ink.
FOR PACKAGES AND BOXES.

Extract of Logwood 8 ounces.
Bichromate of potash 1 ounce.
Hydrochloric acid 3
ounce.
4

Dextrine 4 ounces.
Water 1
gallon.
2

Boil the logwood with the water, add the acid and potash, and lastly the dextrine.

Indelible Ink.
FOR MARKING LINEN, ETC.

Dissolve 5 parts of lunar caustic in 10 parts of spirit of sal ammoniac. Add to the
solution 7 parts of pure soda, 5 of gum Arabic, and 12 of water.

Ink for Writing on Metals.
VALUABLE IN MARKING TOOLS AND INSTRUMENTS.

Muriatic acid 1 ounce.
Nitric acid 1
ounce.
2

Cover the portion of metal you wish to write upon with melted beeswax and
allow it to cool. Write the inscription plainly with any sharp-pointed instrument
through the beeswax to the metal. Apply the acids with a feather or rag, carefully
filling each letter, and let it remain from one to thirty minutes, according to the
desired depth of the lettering, after which wash off the beeswax and acids and
rub over with a little sweet oil to prevent further rust or tarnish.

Ink Powders.
As in the case of fluid inks there are many formulas for preparing ink powders.
The following are the best:
1
Black.—Nut-galls, 1 ounce; copperas, 2 ounce; gum Arabic, 7 ounces. Add one
clove to this quantity. Or, take negrosine, 1 ounce; dextrine, 3 ounces; mix.

Blue.—Water blue aniline, 1 ounce; dextrine, 5 ounces. Or, soluble Prussian
1
blue, 2 ounce; dextrine, 1 ounce.

Green.—Aniline green, 44 parts; gelatine, 4 parts, and lunar caustic, 2 parts. Or,
green aniline, 1 part; dextrine, 4 parts.
Red.—Eosine aniline, 1 ounce; dextrine, 1 ounce.
A tea-spoonful to a table-spoonful of the powder is dissolved in 1 pint of water,
requiring from 12 to 1 hour to make the solution.

Disappearing Ink.
Boil some nut-galls in aqua fortis, and add to the infusion some gum Arabic and
a little sulphuric acid. When written on paper this ink is perfectly legible, but
will disappear from the paper in a few days.

Invisible Ink.
Invisible inks are those which when first written are not visible, but upon the
application of heat or other means the characters are made to appear distinctly.
The following are decidedly the best preparations for this purpose:
fluid
Oil of vitriol 1
ounce.
Soft water 1 pint.
This makes a fluid which is perfectly invisible until heat is applied by holding
over a lamp or by placing in an oven, when it changes to a permanent black.
Write with a clean steel pen. All invisible inks will show on glazed paper,
therefore unglazed paper should be used.
1
Another singular invisible ink is made as follows: Oxide of cobalt, 2 ounce;
muriatic acid, sufficient to dissolve it; water, 4 ounces; mucilage of gum acacia,
1 drachm. Place in a stained bottle. Characters written with this solution are
invisible, but on the application of heat they instantly appear in blue. On cooling
they again become invisible.

Ink Erasing Fluid.
Hydrochloric acid 1
ounce.
8

Water 1 pint.

Mix, bottle, and label No. 1.
Solution of chlorinated soda 2
pint.
3

Water 1 pint.
Mix, bottle, and label No. 2.
To erase ink dip the end of a penholder or pencil in No. 1 and apply to the
writing, and do the same with No. 2. Let remain a moment and blot off with
clean blotting-paper. If the characters are not erased repeat as before.

Cements and Glue.
Armenian Glue.
The jewellers of Turkey, who are mostly Armenians, have a singular method of
ornamenting watch cases, etc., with diamonds and other precious stones by
simply gluing or cementing them on. The stone is set in gold or silver and the
lower part of the metal made flat, or to correspond to that part to which it is to be
fixed. It is then warmed gently and the glue applied, which is so very strong that
the parts thus cemented never separate. For this glue, which will firmly unite bits
of glass and even polished steel, and which may of course be applied to a vast
variety of useful purposes, large number of formulas have been published. The
following is the original recipe. Dissolve 5 or 6 bits of gum mastic, each the size
of a large pea, in as much alcohol as will suffice to render them liquid; in another
vessel dissolve as much isinglass, previously softened a little in water (though
none of the water must be used), in good brandy or rum as will make a two-
ounce vial of very strong glue, adding two small bits of galbanum or
ammoniacum, which must be rubbed or ground until they are dissolved. Then
mix the whole with a sufficient heat. Keep the glue in a vial closely corked, and
when it is to be used set the vial in boiling water. To avoid cracking the vial by
exposure to such sudden heat use a thin green glass vial and hold it in the steam
for a few seconds before immersing it in the hot water.—Workshop Receipts.

Glutina Cement.
FOR GLASS, CHINA, WOOD, LEATHER, ETC.

Gelatine (Cooper’s or Cox’s) 3 ounces.
Acetic acid 2 ounces.

Carbolic acid 5 grains.
Oil of cloves 6 minims.
Water enough to make 1 pint.
Soak the gelatine in half a pint of water for four hours. Place in a bottle and heat
in a water bath; add the acids, dissolve, add the oil of cloves and sufficient hot
water to make a pint, and strain.

To Cement Iron to Iron.
Powdered cast-iron bore chips 60 parts.
Sal-ammoniac 2 parts.
Flowers of sulphur 1 part.
Mix, and stir the mixture into a stiff paste by adding water. Use while fresh.

Cementing Metal to Glass, Stone, Etc.
For attaching metal plates, such as metal letters, etc., to flat sheets of glass or
windows, the following is excellent:
Copal varnish 15 parts.
Drying oil 5 parts.
Turpentine 3 parts.
Melt in a water bath, and add 10 parts of slaked lime. The cement commonly
used for fastening the tops on kerosene lamps is plaster of Paris, which is
porous, quickly penetrated by the kerosene, and readily destroyed. A cement
which does not have this defect is made by boiling 3 parts of resin and 1 of
caustic soda in 5 of water. This composition forms a soap, which mix with half
its weight of plaster of Paris. Use while fresh.

Pastes.
Paste for Wall-paper, Etc.
1
Dissolve 8 ounce of salicylic acid in half a gallon of warm water, and when cold
stir in as much flour as will bring it to the consistency of cream, being particular
to break up all the lumps; next place it on the fire and allow it to cook gently for
a few minutes, stirring well meanwhile. This paste answers a variety of
purposes. The salicylic acid is to keep it from spoiling. The addition of 1 ounce

of powdered colocynth to the above amount will effectually banish all insects
and worms from the walls where the paper is pasted.

Paste for Labeling on Tin.
Ordinary pastes will not adhere labels to tin. The following is a good one: Make
a paste of gum tragacanth and add a little oil of wintergreen. Apply by removing
the film of grease from the tin by a solution of caustic soda (10 parts of water to
1 of soda). Apply with a rag to the spot on which you wish to affix the label.
Paste to Fasten Cloth or Leather on Wooden Surfaces.
Wheat flour 1
2 pounds. 4

Resin (powdered) 1
ounce.
2

Salicylic acid 1
ounce.
8

Rub together till a uniform paste is formed, transfer to a small kettle over a fire,
heat, and stir until the lumps are all dissolved and the paste becomes stiff;
transfer to another vessel and cover up. This paste is applied in a thin layer to the
surface of the table or desk to be covered, the cloth or leather is then laid on and
smoothed with a roller. If leather is to be fastened on it must be first dampened.

Whitewash and Paints.
Brilliant Stucco Whitewash.
This is a time-tried whitewash, either for inside or outside work, and has been
1
known to retain its brilliancy for over thirty years. Nice unslaked lime, 2 bushel;
slake it with boiling water; cover it during the process to keep in the steam.
1
Strain the liquid through a fine sieve or strainer, and add to it 4 bushel of salt,
previously well dissolved in water; rice, 3 pounds—boiled to a thin paste and
1
stirred in boiling hot; Spanish whiting, 2 pound; best glue, 1 pound, which has
been previously dissolved by soaking it well, and then hanging it over a slow fire
in a small kettle immersed in a larger one filled with water. Now add hot water, 5
gallons, to the mixture, stir well, and let it stand a few days covered from the
dirt. It should be put on hot. For this purpose it is best to keep it in a kettle on a

portable furnace, or use other means more convenient. It answers as well as oil
paint for brick or stone, and is much cheaper.
Coloring matter, dissolved in alcohol, may be put in and made of any shade you
like. Spanish brown stirred in will make red-pink, more or less deep, according
to quantity. A delicate tinge of this is very pretty for inside walls. Finely
pulverized common clay, well mixed with Spanish white, makes reddish stone
color. Yellow ochre stirred in makes yellow wash, but chrome goes further, and
makes a color generally esteemed prettier. In all these cases the darkness of the
shade is of course determined by the quantity of the coloring used. It is difficult
to make rules, because tastes differ. It would be best to try experiments on a
shingle, and let it dry. Green must not be mixed with lime. The lime destroys the
color, and the color has an effect on the whitewash which makes it crack and
peel. When inside walls have been badly smoked and you wish to make them a
clean, clear white, it is well to squeeze indigo plentifully through a bag into the
water you use before it is stirred into the whole mixture; or blue vitriol
pulverized and dissolved in boiling water and put into whitewash gives a
beautiful blue tint. If a larger quantity than five gallons be wanted the same
proportions should be observed.

Durable Paint for Tin Roofs.
Linseed Oil 30 parts.
Oil of Turpentine 10 parts.
Colcothar 14 parts.
Red chalk 46 parts.
The coloring substances are pulverized and the mixture ground. Should the
mixture be too thick reduce it with equal parts of linseed oil and oil of
turpentine. Give the roof two coats, allowing the first to dry before applying the
second. See that the tin is free from rust, and the coats should not be laid on too
thick nor too thin.

Paint for Roofs.
Pulverized slate (argillaceous schist) 35 parts.
Pulverized mica slate (mica schist) 30 parts.
Pulverized rosin 35 parts.
Mix, and add one-half its volume of pure coal-tar and boil to a fluid mass.

This paint gives a very durable and pliant covering, which does not melt in the
greatest heat of summer nor crack or break in the greatest cold. It resists
moisture, and a roof painted with it need not be gone over again for four or five
years.

Paint for Blackboards.
Common glue, 4 ounces; flour of emery, 3 ounces, and just lampblack enough to
3
give an inky color to the preparation. Dissolve the glue in 4 quart of warm water,
put in the lampblack and emery, stir till there are no lumps, then apply to the
board with a woolen rag smoothly rolled. Three coats should be given.

Removing Smell of Paint.
Place a vessel of lighted charcoal in the room and place on it two or three
handfuls of juniper berries; shut the windows, chimneys, and doors and twenty-
four hours afterward the room may be opened, when it will be found that the
sickly, unwholesome smell will be gone. Another very simple method is to
plunge a handful of hay into a pail of water and let it stand in the newly-painted
room.

Paint Remover.
To remove dry paint or hard putty make a saturated solution of caustic of potassa
with water. Apply to the paint with a swab. After a short time it will be easily
removed.

Staining Wood.
Ebonizing Wood.
Logwood chips 8 ounces.
Copperas 1
ounce.
2

Lampblack 1
ounce.
2

Water, sufficient.
Boil the logwood for 30 minutes in a gallon of water, and then add the copperas
and lampblack. Apply to the wood hot, giving a number of coats. In varnishing
ebonized wood a little drop black must be added to the varnish or it will give a
brown shade.

Staining Wood Rose Color.
A brilliant and uniform rose color can be imparted to wood and vegetable ivory
by chemical precipitation, as follows: The first bath consists of 8 parts of
potassium iodide to 100 parts of water. The second bath is prepared by mixing
1
2 2 parts of corrosive sublimate with 100 parts of water. Immerse the wood for a
few hours in the first bath, then place it in the second, in which it will acquire a
beautiful rose color. Varnish the wood after drying. Both baths can be repeatedly
used without renewing them.

Imitation of Cedar.
Mix 2 parts by weight of catechu, 1 part of caustic soda, and 100 of water. The
best wood to use is white wood, and after the article is finished it is boiled in the
stain for several hours, rinsed, and dried. The length of time in boiling depends
upon the depth of color desired. This is a very deep and natural stain.

Hard Coating for Wood.
To coat wood with a substance as hard as stone apply the following mixture
while hot with a brush:
Lime 40 parts.
Resin 50 parts.
Linseed oil 4 parts.

Metal and Glass Secrets.
Hardening Composition for Steel.
Spermaceti oil 95 quarts.
Melted tallow 20 pounds.
Neat’s foot oil 1
4 2 quarts.
Pitch 1 pound.
Rosin 3 pounds.
Melt the rosin and pitch together, add the other ingredients, and heat all in an
iron vessel until all moisture is driven out, and the heated mass ignites from a
burning chip of wood held over it; the flame is at once extinguished by a close-
fitting lid.

In using the method for saw blades, they are first heated in a suitable furnace and
then placed vertically, teeth upward, in troughs filled with the mixture. After
sufficient cooling they are taken out and wiped with a piece of leather so that
only a slight film of fat remains. They are then placed flat over a coal fire until
the coating of fat ignites, which may burn as freely as required for great
hardness. Screws, or other articles which require a less degree of hardness, are
dipped into the hot mixture and brought to a white heat.

Composition to Toughen Steel.
Resin 2 pounds.
Tallow 2 pounds.
Black pitch 1 pound.
Melt together and dip the steel in the mixture when hot.

To Soften Iron or Steel.
Anoint the article all over with tallow, temper it in a gentle charcoal fire, and let
it cool itself; or take a little clay, cover your iron with it, and temper in a
charcoal fire.
Restoring Burnt Steel.
It is not generally known that burnt steel may be almost instantaneously restored
by plunging it while hot in cold water and hammering it with light strokes on the
anvil, turning it so as to hammer all over it, again dipping in the cold water, and
repeating the hammering process as before. Try again if you do not succeed the
first time.
Welding Cast-Steel.
Rock saltpeter 1
pound.
4

Oil vitriol 1
pound.
4

Water 1 gallon.
Dissolve the saltpeter in the vitriol and add it to the water. After scarfing the
steel get it hot; and quench in the preparation. Then weld the same as a piece of
iron, hammering it very quickly with light blows. It answers the purpose much
better than borax. Cork it in a bottle and it will keep for years.
Another:

Borax 15 parts.
Sal-ammoniac 2 parts.
Cyanide of potassium 2 parts.
Dissolve all in water, and evaporate the water at a low temperature.
To Drill Hardened Steel.
Cover your steel with melted beeswax, and when cold make a hole in the wax
with a fine-pointed needle or other article the size of the hole you require; put a
drop of strong nitric acid upon it, and after an hour rinse off and apply again. It
will gradually eat through.
To Drill Holes in Cast-Iron.
1
By means of carbolic acid a hole 4 of an inch in diameter has been drilled
through 12 inch thickness of cast-iron with a carpenter’s brace.

To Solder Ferrules for Tool Handles.
Take your ferrule, lap round the “joining” a small piece of brass wire, then wet
the ferrule, scatter on the joining ground borax, put it on the end of a wire, and
hold it in the fire till the brass fuses. It will fill up the joining and form a perfect
solder. It may afterward be turned in the lathe.
Soldering Without a Soldering Iron.
Cut a piece of a tin-foil the size of the surface to be soldered, then pass over the
surface a solution of sal-ammoniac, place the tin-foil between the pieces, and
heat over a lamp or fire until the foil melts. Instead of the solution of sal-
ammoniac equal parts of water and hydrochloric acid saturated with zinc can be
used just as well.
To Clean Gun-barrels from Lead.
Pour in a little mercury, agitate it over the interior surface of the barrel, and pour
it out again. The mercury will amalgamate the lead and remove it.
To Resharpen Old Files.
Saleratus 4 ounces.
Water 1 quart.

Dissolve the saleratus in the water. Boil the old files or rasps in this solution for
half an hour. Then take out, wash, and dry them. Next stand them in a jar, filling
it up with rain water and sulphuric acid in the proportion of water, 1 quart;
sulphuric acid, 4 ounces. Coarse files should remain in the bath twelve hours and
fine ones two or three hours less. Take them out, wash them clean, dry quickly
and thoroughly, and rub them with sweet oil to prevent rusting.
Another method, though not so effectual, is to pour a few drops of benzole upon
the file and brush thoroughly with a scratch brush.
Mending Tinware by Candle Heat.
This is such a simple and cheap way of mending tinware that a person with just a
bit of ingenuity can do his own work in this line. Take a vial about two-thirds
full of muriatic acid and put into it little bits of sheet zinc as long as the acid will
dissolve them. Then put in a crumb of sal-ammoniac and fill up with water and it
is ready for use. Wet the cork in the vial and with it wet the edges of the place to
be mended. Then put a piece of sheet zinc over the hole and hold a lighted
candle or spirit lamp under the place, which melts the solder on the tin and
causes the zinc to adhere without further trouble. Do not forget to wet the zinc
also with the solution.
A Good Way to Sharpen Razors.
Put the razor blade for half an hour in water to which has been added one-
twentieth of its weight of muriatic or sulphuric acid, and after a few hours “set”
it on a hone. The acid acts as a whetstone by corroding the whole surface
uniformly.
Razor-Strop Paste.
Moisten flour of emery with tallow or sweet oil.

Cutting Ovals and Different Shapes on Glass.
Scratch the glass around the shape you desire with the corner of a file or graver;
then having bent a piece of wire the same shape heat it red-hot and lay it upon
the scratch, and sink the glass into cold water just deep enough for the water to
come almost on a level with its upper surface. It rarely fails to break perfectly
true.

Etching on Glass.
Barium sulphate 3 ounces.
Ammonia fluoride 1 ounce.
Acid sulphuric, a sufficient quantity to decompose the ammonia fluoride and
making the mixture of a semi-fluid consistency. It must be prepared in a leaden
vessel. It can be used with a common pen, but must be kept in bottles coated
inside with paraffine, beeswax, or gutta-percha, with rubber stoppers.
To Drill and Ornament Glass.
Any hard steel tool will cut glass with great facility when kept freely wet with
camphor dissolved in turpentine. A drill-bow may be used, or even the hand
alone. A hole bored may be readily enlarged by a round file. The ragged edges of
glass vessels may also be thus easily smoothed by a flat file. Flat window glass
can readily be sawed by a watch-spring saw by aid of this solution. In short, the
most brittle glass can be wrought almost as easily as brass by the use of cutting-
tools kept constantly moist with camphorized oil of turpentine.

Plating Without a Battery.
Silver-Plating Solution.
Nitrate of silver (crystals) 1
ounce.
4

Cyanuret potassa 1
ounce.
2

Prepared Spanish whiting 1 ounce.
Pure rain water 1
2 2 ounces.

Mix all together in a glass vessel, and it is ready for use. Thoroughly clean the
article from all grease and dirt (see polishing preparations, page 12), and apply
with a soft rag or brush and polish with a chamois skin.
Silvering Powder.
Chloride of silver 1 ounce.
Pearlash 3 ounces.
Common salt 1
1 2 ounces.
Whiting 1 ounce.

Powder and mix the articles thoroughly. This is excellent in silvering brass and
copper articles. Clean the surface of the article, as in the preceding preparation,
and apply the mixture by rubbing on with a cork or piece of soft leather
moistened with water and dipped in the powder. Afterward the metal should be
well washed in hot water and wiped dry.
Gold-Plating Solution.
Gold amalgam 1
ounce.
2

Nitro muriatic acid 1 ounce.
Alcohol 2 ounces.
Dissolve the amalgam in the acid and then add the alcohol. Thoroughly clean the
article to be plated and apply the solution with a soft brush. Rinse and dry in
sawdust or with tissue paper and polish with chamois skin.
Nickeling Iron Without Electricity.
To a solution of chloride of zinc 5 or 10 per cent strong add enough nickel salt to
give the usual color of nickel bath. Cleanse the articles and put them in the
1
solution for from 2 to 1 hour.

Gold and Silver Imitations.
Imitation Gold.
An American has discovered a beautiful alloy, which has been most successfully
applied as a substitute for gold. It is composed of pure copper, 100 parts; pure
tin, 17 parts; magnesia, 6 parts; tartar of commerce, 9 parts; sal-ammoniac, 3.6
parts, and quicklime, 1.6 parts. The copper is first melted, then the lime,
magnesia, sal-ammoniac, and tartar are added, little at a time, and the whole is
briskly stirred for about half an hour, so as to mix thoroughly, after which the tin
is thrown on the surface in small grains, stirring until entirely fused. The crucible
is now covered and the fusion kept up for about thirty-five minutes, when the
dross is skimmed off, and the alloy found ready for use. It is quite maleable and
ductile, and may be drawn, stamped, chased, beaten into powder, or into leaves,
like gold leaf, in all of which conditions it is not distinguishable from gold even
by good judges, except by its inferior weight.

Imitation Silver.
1
Combine by fusion 1 part pure copper, 24 parts block tin, 1 2 parts pure
1
antimony, 4 part pure bismuth, and 2 parts clear glass. The glass may be omitted
save in cases where it is an object to have the metal sonorous.

Care of Teeth, Mouth, and Breath.
The teeth, through negligence and ignorance, receive less attention among the
majority of people than any other subject of a personal character. The care of
children’s teeth is very important, and if parents do not post themselves in the
matter frequent visits to a skilled dentist should in their case be imperatively
enforced, as well as upon the older members of the family.
The first teeth of the infant are called the deciduous or milk teeth, and are twenty
in number—ten in each jaw. These twenty teeth are as follows: Eight incisors,
four in each jaw—the four being composed of two central and two lateral
incisors—also four canine or cuspid teeth, two in each jaw, and eight molars,
four in each jaw—the molars being called first and second molars, indicating
their relative positions as well as the periods of their eruption (commonly called
cutting). It is generally recognized among physicians that all diseases of children
are more difficult to treat during dentition than before or after. It is well enough
for parents to recognize this fact in administering medicines to their children.
Although the time of eruptions of the teeth differ with different persons, yet the
following table gives a close approximation:
ERUPTION OF THE TEETH.
Deciduous Teeth. Permanent Teeth.
(The lower generally precede the First molars 5 to 6 years
upper by two or three months.) Central incisors 6 to 8 years
Lateral incisors 7 to 9 years
Central incisors 5 to 8 months First bicuspids 9 to 10 years
Lateral incisors 7 to 10 months Second bicuspids 10 to 11 years
First molars 12 to 16 months Canines 11 to 12 years
Canines 15 to 20 months Second molars 12 to 14 years
Second molars 20 to 36 months Third molars 17 to 21 years

It would be difficult indeed to condense in so short a space so much practical
information from a reliable source as has been given in the following prize essay
on the teeth, which was awarded by the Dental Society of Philadelphia:
1st. Cleanse your teeth once, or oftener, every day. Rinse the mouth after eating.
Cleansing the teeth consists in removing every particle of foreign matter from
around the teeth and gums.
2d. To cleanse use well-made brushes, soft quill, or wood toothpicks, an antacid
styptic tooth wash, and precipitated chalk. If these means fail apply to a regular
dentist.
3d. Avoid eating hot food. Thoroughly masticate the food, and well salivate it
before swallowing.
4th. Parents ought to carefully attend to the child’s second dentition. Prevail
upon your children to visit, at frequent intervals, a careful and skillful operator.
5th. Remember that four of the permanent double teeth come in at the age of six
years. They are very liable to decay early, are very large, and should never be
allowed to require extracting.
6th. Never allow any one to extract a tooth or dissuade you from having them
filled unless absolutely necessary.
7th. Carelessness and procrastination are responsible for a large proportion of
teeth that are lost.
The teeth were never intended to take the place of nut-crackers nor to rival
scissors in cutting thread. The teeth must be taken care of or your health will
suffer.
Remember, a clean tooth would not decay in a hundred years.
Best Tooth Powder.
Precipitated chalk 4 ounces.
Powdered cuttle-bone 2 ounces.
Powdered orris root 1
1 2 ounces.
Powdered borax 1
ounce.
2

Oil of cloves 5 minims.

fluid
Oil of wintergreen 2
drachms.
Mix the powder thoroughly, and with a small portion add the oils and mix them
until in the form of a moist powder. Then add the rest of the mixed powders
gradually until all are evenly distributed throughout. A solution of carmine can
be added in with the oils, which will color it as desired.
Some prefer a preparation in the form of a paste, as follows:

Cherry Tooth Paste.
Precipitated chalk 4 ounces.
Powdered areca nut 1 ounce.
Powdered quillaya bark (or soap root) 1
ounce.
2

Powdered cuttle-bone 1 ounce.
Powdered borax 1
ounce.
2

Powdered orris root 4 ounces.
Tincture of myrrh 1
ounce.
2

Oils of nutmeg, cloves, and bitter almonds,
each 15 minims.
Oil of rose 5 minims.
Honey, glycerine, and mucilage acacia equal quantities of each sufficient to
make into a paste of the desired consistence. First mix the powders and color
with carmine, and then add the other ingredients and thoroughly mix.
Mouth washes are a valuable addition to the toilet as they assist to harden and
heal the gums, cleanse the mouth and purify the breath.
Antiseptic Tooth Wash.
Salicylic acid 12 parts.
Alcohol (95 per cent) 315 parts.
Distilled water 60 parts.
Oil of wintergreen 15 parts.
Essence of orange flowers 15 parts.
Color with tincture of cochineal. A few drops of carbolic acid may be added to
the above in the case of decayed teeth and foul breath.

When the breath is very offensive the following should be taken in addition to
rinsing the mouth with the mouth wash:

Solution for the Breath.
Solution chloride soda 1 ounce.
Liquor potassa 1 ounce.
Phosphate soda 1
ounce.
2

Water 8 ounces.
Mix and take one-half tea-spoonful in water after each meal.
When the services of a dentist are not at hand and the teeth are badly decayed
and aching, the following mouth wash is recommended. It is used by holding a
tea-spoonful in the mouth as long as possible and spitting out:
Spanish camomile root 1
4 2 drachms
Sal-ammoniac 1
2 4 drachms
Vinegar and lavender water, each 2 2 fluid
1

ounces.
Cut the camomile in pieces and rub fine with the sal-ammoniac; add the lavender
water and vinegar by placing all in a glass flask and let it digest for twelve hours
and filter.
The following preparation is one of the best for relieving toothache until a
dentist can be consulted:

Toothache Drops.
Chloral hydrate 1 drachm.
Camphor 1 drachm.
Morphia sulphate 2 drachms
Oil peppermint 2 drachms
Rub the solids in a mortar until they liquefy, then add the oil of peppermint.
Apply on cotton.

Removal of Freckles, Moles, Etc.

The following practical treatise on this much-abused subject is copied from the
B. & C. Druggist, and although originally written in the interests of druggists it
is of more value to persons affected with these blemishes; hence we reproduce
the essay in its entirety with the formulas stripped of their technical terms and
phrases:
At this time of the year there are few questions which are more frequently
addressed to the “family chemist,” and fewer still to which he ordinarily gives so
unsatisfactory a reply, as, “What shall I do to cure my freckles?”
Knowing as we do how greatly the popularity—i. e., the business prosperity—of
the majority of our friends depends upon the votes and interest of their lady
customers, we have been at some pains to lay before them such an amount of
practical information upon the above subject as will enable them to retain the
good will and material gratitude of their fair interrogators on the one hand, and
to put a little extra profit in their own pockets on the other.
We do not propose to convert these pages into an elaborate treatise upon the
skin; but for the benefit of those who are only just commencing business it will,
perhaps, be as well to make a few observations which our more experienced
friends may consider of the “leather and prunella” order. In the first place it will
be generally admitted that upon the subject of our present notes there is no
published information of a practical and reliable character, and that medical
writers and practitioners either shun the question altogether or approach it in a
perfunctory manner, and leave it very much where they found it. For our present
purpose the cutaneous discoloration commonly designated by the term
“freckles” may be considered under two heads—the so-called “summer” or
temporary variety (ephelis), and the permanent kind (lentigo). Both are
commonly stated to be simply morbid alterations of the skin-pigment, and to be
situated solely in the rete mucosum, but this is not absolutely true, inasmuch as
ephelis, properly so called, is generally due to a darkening of the under surface
of the epidermis either in small ovoid patches (“summer freckles”) or extended
over a large surface (“tan” or “sunburn”), while with lentigo the brownish
discolorations are at a greater depth, and remain in situ after the covering
epidermis has been completely removed. Strong sunshine, or any powerfully
actinic light, and radiant heat from any source are apt to produce the first named,
and to enhance the latter form of the skin’s chromatogenous function, the
manifestations of which vary greatly according to individual idiosyncrasies.

Similarly the treatment which answers best for some persons is not so
efficacious in other cases, but the old, old adage that “prevention is better than
cure” applies here with considerable force, and as regards the rationale of
remedial applications, it may be said in general terms that the application, in the
right place, of active reducing, or deoxidizing, agents is as a rule successful in
removing ephelis altogether, and in greatly toning down the shade of lentigo.
Commencing with the mildest form we will give a good formula for a
SUNBURN LOTION
Citric acid 1 drachm.
Sulphate of iron (pure) 18 grains.
Elder-flower water 3 ounces.
Camphor, sufficient quantity.
The sulphate of iron must be in clear green crystals, unless the “granulated”
form, which is preferable, be available, and in either case the salt should be fresh
and free from oxidized portions, or “rustiness;” it should be dissolved in half the
elder-flower water (all of which is better, if not quite recently distilled, for being
quickly raised to the boiling point and cooled out of contact of air before use),
the citric acid being also in solution in the other half, and the two fluids mixed,
filtered if necessary, and bottled immediately, a lump of camphor about the size
of small peppercorn to be added to the contents of each bottle.
WASH FOR THE SKIN.
Hydokinine 48 grains.
Glacial phosphoric acid 30 grains.
Glycerine 2 drachms
Distilled water 6 ounces.
Mix.
The two lotions are stated to give excellent results, especially the latter. They are
to be applied to the skin of the face, etc., in the usual way, at least twice in the
course of twenty-four hours, after it has been washed and dried carefully. If the
skin be of the nature known as “greasy,” a preliminary wash with tepid water
containing a few drops of stronger water of ammonia is advisable.

ALBADERMINE.

Under this empirical title a process of removing “tan” and the milder variety of
“freckles,” a foreign surgeon has devised the following:
SOLUTION A.
Iodide potassa 2 drachms
Pure iodine 6 grains.
Glycerine 3 drachms
Infusion of rose leaves 4 ounces.
Dissolve the iodide of potassium in a small quantity of the infusion and a
drachm of the glycerine; with this fluid moisten the iodine in a glass mortar and
rub it down, gradually adding more liquid until complete solution has been
obtained; then stir in the remainder of the ingredients, and bottle the mixture.
SOLUTION B.
Hyposulphate of soda 1
1 2 ounces.
Rose water 1 pint.
Dissolve and filter.
With a small camel’s hair pencil or piece of fine sponge apply a little of
“Albadermine A” to the tanned or freckled surface, until a slight but tolerably
uniform brownish-yellow skin has been produced. At the expiration of fifteen or
twenty minutes moisten a piece of cambric, lint, or soft rag with “B” and lay it
upon the affected part, removing, squeezing away the liquid, soaking it afresh,
and again applying until the iodine stain has disappeared. Repeat the entire
process thrice daily, but diminish the frequency of the application if tenderness
be produced. In the course of from three or four days to as many weeks the
freckles will either have disappeared entirely or their intensity will be very
greatly diminished. “Summer freckles” yield very speedily to this treatment.
ANTI-FRECKLE LOTION.
Corrosive sublimate 12 grains.
Hydrochloric acid (pure) 3 drachms
Kernels of bitter almonds 1
1 2 ounces.
Glycerine 1 ounce.
Tincture benzoin 2 drachms
Orange-flower water, sufficient quantity.

Dissolve the corrosive sublimate in three ounces of the orange-flower water, add
the hydrochloric acid, and set aside. Blanch the bitter almonds and bruise them
in a Wedgwood mortar, adding thereto the glycerine and using the pestle
vigorously; a smooth paste is thus obtained. Then add gradually about nine
ounces of the orange-flower water, stirring constantly, continuing this operation
until a fine, creamy emulsion is the result. Subject this to violent agitation—
preferably with the aid of a mechanical egg whisk—and allow the tincture of
benzoin to fall into it the while drop by drop. Then add the mercurial solution,
filter, and make up the whole to the measure of one imperial pint (20 ounces)
with more orange-flower water.
This preparation is recommended to us by an eminent dermatologist as being
invariably efficacious in the treatment of ephelis, and always greatly
ameliorating lentigo, even if it does not entirely decolorize the patches in the
latter case. A general whitening of the skin is produced by this lotion without any
irritation. It is as well, however, not to apply it to any abraded surfaces. It has
been found far superior in practice to a preparation—which it somewhat
resembles—sold at a high price in Paris under the name of Lait Antiphelique.
BISMUTH OINTMENT FOR FRECKLES.
Subnitrate of bismuth 3 drachms
Simple ointment 2 ounces.
Apply to the face, etc., at night, and remove in the morning with a little cold
cream previous to washing. This is from a private American source.
COPPER OLEATE FOR FRECKLES, ETC.
This is a much more effective and reliable ointment for the purpose than the
preceding, which is really only suited for the milder form of sunburn, while the
oleate of copper will remove the more persistent and obstinate lentigo. It is thus
prepared:
Oleate of copper 1 ounce.
Petrolatum 3 ounces.
Mix.
This is to be applied in the same manner as the preceding, washing the surface of
the skin, however (after the cold cream), about every third morning, with a little

weak ammonia water, in order to prevent any inadvertent accumulation of
copper.
Several of the preceding are well adapted for the treatment of very dark-colored
and deep-seated examples of lentigo, of which, however, some seem capable of
resisting all treatment of this kind. The only method of reaching these is by the
complete removal of the epidermis of the part and of the upper portion of the
cutis also. A Turkish bath is often useful as a preliminary for an effort of this
kind, which, of course, needs the application of some disorganizing substance.
Permanganate of potassium answers in this direction, but we find that a
moderately strong solution of Mr. H. B. Condy’s new disinfectant—per­manga­‐
nate of aluminum—is undoubtedly the best of the two for this purpose. It should
be applied several times until the skin has acquired a uniform brown tint. At
from one to twelve hours after this is noticed it should be removed by a warm
and dilute solution (about 8 or 10 per cent) of hydrochloric acid, to which a little
glycerine may be added to prevent too rapid drying. Still better, however, is
nitric acid, which if “painted” upon a colored spot of this kind first renders it
more distinctly yellow, then orange-brown. In a day or two this becomes a
deeper brown, and more or less disorganized, cracking, either round the edge, or
right across the center, so that it can be readily peeled away. Freckles removed in
this manner seldom crop up again, in that particular place, at all events. In this
connection it is a somewhat curious fact that whereas dilute nitric acid often
caused soreness and irritation when applied in this manner, a stronger acid does
nothing of the kind, but quietly and quickly “deadens” that portion of the outer
covering it has been applied to, so that in a day or two it can be removed quite
painlessly. What is known as “French nitric acid,” of from 1.330 to 1.350
specific gravity, is very appropriate for this purpose.
COCAINE AND NITRIC ACID FOR MOLES, ETC.
The removal of either deep-seated freckles or moles is, as before hinted, not
always an easy task, but nitric acid is perhaps about as good an agent for the
purpose as any other. The mole should be surrounded by a little “cell” or ring of
wax, so that the acid can be applied direct without fear of disorganizing the
adjacent skin. As, however, nitric acid by itself sometimes occasions a good deal
of smarting, etc., when applied, it is better to avoid this by mixing cocaine with
it. The mixture given below answers the purpose very well indeed:

Nitric acid 1 drachm.
Cocaine 6 grains.
This should be kept ready for use in a small bottle with a good-fitting stopper.
The end of a glass rod dipped in and then cautiously applied to the surface of the
mole or freckle, the process being repeated once or twice a day, and the
unsightly spot has its vitality destroyed without pain, being then easily and
effectually removed.

Preparation for Red Noses.
This formula was procured from a friend of the author residing at Little Rock,
Ark. I can vouch for its efficacy in his case, as it removed the unnatural color in
a few days, and he told me that others had tried it with equally gratifying results.
It is translated from a formula of a young physician, a graduate of Jefferson
Medical College:
Oxide of zinc 1
ounce.
4

Corrosive sublimate 2 grains.
Sulphur (precip.) 1
ounce.
2

Glycerine 1
ounce.
4

Calamine 3 drachms
Rose water, sufficient to make 8 ounces.
Mix and apply with a small, soft sponge. The medical works say little about the
red nose. The cause is usually attributed to drinking, but gluttony, tight lacing,
nasal catarrh, chronic enlargement of the tonsils, exposure to strong sunlight,
etc., all contribute to a reddening of the nasal organ.

Other Toilet Preparations.
The following formula, prescribed by the late Dr. Tilbury Fox, is a very soothing
application, and is a great favorite with ladies who have flushed faces:

Calamine Face Lotion.
Levigated calamine 120 grains.
Oxide of zinc 60 grains.

Glycerine 60 drops.
Rose water, sufficient to make 3 ounces.
Be sure and get the white calamine, and not the red. Apply with a small, soft
sponge and allow to dry on, the excess of powder being lightly dusted off with a
soft cloth.
Lotion for Chapped Hands, Face, and Lips.
Glycerine 3 drachms
Strained honey 1 drachm.
Cologne 1 drachm.
Oil of bitter almonds 3 drops.
Alcohol 4 ounces.
Water 1
1 2 ounces.

Mix and apply with a soft sponge while the skin is damp, and wipe dry with a
towel. This is the best preparation of its class.
Lip Salve.
For healing and softening the lips, preventing them from cracking, etc., the
following is an elegant preparation:
Petrolatum 2 ounces.
White wax, or paraffine 1
ounce.
2

Tannin 1
drachm.
2

Oils of lavender and bergamot, each 1
drachm.
4

Oil of rose geranium 1
drachm.
2

Melt the petrolatum and wax together and add the tannin while cooling; add the
oils and stir until cold. When it is desired to color the lips add 20 grains of
carmine. This is done by reducing the carmine to a fine powder in a mortar and
rub with a small portion of the salve until it is thoroughly incorporated, and then
mix the remainder gradually.
Pimple Lotion.
Carbolic acid 1
drachm.
2

Borax 2 drachms

Glycerine 1 ounce.
Tannin 1 drachm.
Alcohol 1
1 2 ounces.
Rose water 5 ounces.
Mix and dissolve. Apply night and morning.
Manicure Powder.
This is used for polishing and cleaning the nails:
Powdered pumice stone 4 ounces.
Powdered French chalk 1
ounce.
4

Carmine (No. 40) in powder 1
drachm.
4

Bulk perfume (violet or rose) 1
ounce.
8

Manicure Salve.
This is for softening the nails, curing hang-nails, etc.:
Petrolatum 1 ounce.
Powdered castile soap 2 drachms
Oil of bergamot 15 drops.
Mix thoroughly and apply upon going to bed, wearing a pair of gloves.
Best Bay Rum.
fluid
Oil of bay leaves 4
drachms.
Oil of pimenta 30 minims.
Oil of bergamot 60 minims.
Acetic ether 30 minims.
Concentrated lye 4 drachms
Deodorized alcohol 7 pints.
Water 9 pints.
Color sufficient with grass green.
Mix the oils and dissolve them in the alcohol; to this gradually add the lye,
previously dissolved in the water, then add the acetic ether and coloring matter,
and let stand a few days and filter through a glass funnel into a glass vessel.

Fine Rose Water.
Oil of rose 15 drops.
White sugar 1
ounce.
2

Carbonate of magnesia 2 drachms
Water 2 pints.
Alcohol 2 ounces.
Add the oil to the alcohol, rub with magnesia and sugar, then add the water and
filter.
Hoyt’s German Cologne.
Oil of bergamot 1 ounce.
Oil of Neroli 1
ounce.
4

Oil of lemon 1 ounce.
Oil of sandal wood 1
ounce.
2

Camphor 20 grains.
Deodorized alcohol 7 pints.
Rose water 1 pint.
Mix, let stand 30 days, and then filter.
Hair Tonic.
Tincture red cinchona 3 ounces.
Glycerine 1
1 2 ounces.
Jamaica rum 1 ounce.
Tannic acid 1
drachm.
2

Tincture cantharides 2 drachms
Tincture capsicum 1 drachm.
Cologne, sufficient to make 9 ounces.
Apply once or twice a day, rubbing well into the scalp.
Clifford’s Shampoo Compound.
Borax 3 ounces.
Salts of tartar 1 ounce.
Mix, and dissolve 1 ounce of the mixture in 1 pint of water when wanted for use.

Quillaya Sea Foam.
Tincture of quillaya 1 ounce.
Bay rum 1 ounce.
Water 6 ounces.
This is much better than the old form containing ammonia.
Cream Hair Oil.
Pure winter-strained lard oil 2 ounces.
Strong solution of borax 2 ounces.
Perfume with bergamot or any desired odor. This makes an elegant, creamy
1
preparation, and is one of the best that can be made. The addition of 4 ounce of
tincture of cantharides to the above amount will stop the hair from falling out
and assist Nature in supplying new hair. A great many persons are prejudiced
against hair oils, but they have been used for ages, and will continue to be used.
Some hair actually demands oil, owing to a lack of that supplied by nature.
Pomade Hair-Grower.
Petrolatum 1
pound.
2

Tincture cantharides 3
ounce.
4

Oil of cinnamon 15 minims.
Oil of bergamot 60 minims.
Oil of citronella 30 minims.
Oil of cloves 5 minims.
Melt the petrolatum and add the tincture of cantharides, and while cooling add
the other ingredients.

Perspiration Powder.
Salicylic acid 15 grains.
Carbolic acid 10 drops.
Burnt alum (powdered) 1 drachm.
Starch (powdered) 2 ounces.
French chalk (powdered) 1 ounce.
Oil of lemon 20 drops.
Mix thoroughly, and apply by dusting the powder into the stockings and gloves.

Corn and Wart Salve.
Caustic soda or potassa 1 ounce.
Water 1 ounce.
Starch (powdered) 1
ounce.
4

Glycerine 2 ounces.
Mix the starch with the glycerine, heat, and stir until thoroughly incorporated.
Dissolve the potassa in the water heated to a boiling point and add the other
mixture to it. This preparation needs to be applied only once or twice. Spread a
little of the salve on the corn, bunion, or wart. Do not touch the healthy skin.
Allow it to remain several hours and then soak the part in warm water.
German Corn-Killer.
A very popular liquid preparation for removing corns, etc., is prepared as
follows:
Salicylic acid 3
drachm.
4

Extract of Indian hemp 8 grains.
Collodion 3
ounce.
4

Apply once a day to the hard skin by means of a small brush.

Chilblains.
In the treatment of chilblains we give a detailed list of formulas from the works
and practice of a number of the most eminent physicians and surgeons.

OINTMENT TO BE USED AT NIGHT.
Dr. Bartholow’s prescription is as follows:
Carbolic acid 1 drachm.
Tincture of iodine 2 drachms
Tannic acid 2 drachms
Simple cerate 4 ounces.

POWDER TO PREVENT CHILBLAINS.
Dr. Bandt gives the following prescription:

Sodium borate 3 parts.
Alum and benzoin, each 2 parts.
Mustard 12 parts.
Orris root and bran, each 10 parts.
Almond-skins 30 parts.
Mix with a little water and apply.
WASH FOR NON-ULCERATED CHILBLAINS.
Dr. Beasley’s prescription is as follows:
Sulphate of aluminum and potash 1 part.
Vinegar and weak alcohol, of each 25 parts.
Dissolve and filter. Apply night and morning.

OINTMENT FOR NON-ULCERATED CHILBLAINS.
Dr. Giacomini’s prescription is as follows:
Prepared lard 8 parts.
Chrystallized acetate of lead 1 part.
Distilled cherry laurel water 2 parts.
Mix, and apply night and morning.

FOR UNBROKEN CHILBLAINS.
Sulphuric acid 1 drachm.
Spirits of turpentine 1 drachm.
Olive oil 3 drachms
Mix the oil and turpentine first, then gradually add the acid. Apply by rubbing on
two or three times a day.
FOR UNBROKEN CHILBLAINS.
Lard 4 ounces.
Turpentine 1 ounce.
Camphor 2 ounces.
Oil of rosemary 15 drops.
Rub in with continued friction.
FOR BROKEN CHILBLAINS.

Yellow wax
of each, 3
Olive oil
ounces.
Camphorated oil
1
Goulard’s extract 1 2 ounces.

Melt the wax with the oil, then add the camphorated oil and Goulard extract.

How to Make an Incubator.
[From Scientific American Supplement.]

Experiments with the incubator
here given have been made all over
the country. It is one that is in
actual use, and has always given
satisfaction. Having secured
permission from the originator, we
here illustrate it for the benefit of
our readers.
To make this incubator get your fig. 1.—the hot-water incubator.
tinner to make you a tank 15 inches
wide, 30 inches long, and 12 inches
deep, of galvanized iron or zinc, the
iron being preferable. On the top
should be a tube 1 inch in diameter
and 8 inches high. In front should
be another tube, 9 inches long, to
which should be attached a spigot,
fig. 2.—the tank.
as illustrated in Fig. 2. Having
Observe that the tubes on the top and the spigot are
made your tank, have what is called quite long, in order that they may extend through
the ventilator made, which is a box the packing of sawdust which is to surround it. This
with a bottom but no top. The tank is to have a close-fitting covering (top and
sides) of wood, to resist pressure of water. The
ventilator should be 8 inches deep, bottom is not to be covered.
and 1 inch smaller all round than
the tank, as the tank must rest on inch boards. In the ventilator should be four or
1
six tin tubes 2 inch in diameter and 6 inches long. They should extend through
the bottom, so as to admit air from below, and to within 2 inches of the top or a

little less. Now make an egg
drawer, which is a frame of wood 3
inches deep having no top or
bottom, except that the front should
be boxed off and filled with
sawdust, which is covered over
afterward with a piece of muslin to
keep the sawdust from spilling.
This box in front of the drawer
exactly fits the opening in Fig. 3, fig. 3.—drawer opening.

when the drawer is in its place. Of Shows the thick packing, which is noticed at the
course the egg drawer must be opening. This extends all around. The front of the
egg drawer (Fig. 4) fits in its place in order to
made longer than the tank and complete the surrounding packing, when the
ventilator, in order to allow for this incubator is closed, as at Fig. 1.
space which it fills in the opening,
which is the packing all around the
incubator. The bottom of the egg
drawer should be made by nailing a
few slats lengthwise to the under
side, or rather, fitting them in
nicely, and over the slats in the fig. 4.—the egg drawer.

inside of the drawer a piece of The space just in front of the eggs is the portion
thick, strong muslin should be partitioned off to fit in the opening at Fig. 3. The
egg drawer is therefore longer than the tank and
tightly drawn. On this muslin the ventilator.
eggs are placed, in the same
position as if laid in a hen’s nest,
and it allows the air to pass through
to the eggs for ventilation. The
eggs can be turned by hand,
marked for designation, or an egg
turner may be made by fastening
fig. 5.—the ventilator.
slats crosswise to one on each side
running lengthwise, something like The tubes admit air from below, which passes into the
egg drawer above through the muslin bottom of the
a window lattice, and when the egg drawer to the eggs. The eggs rest upon the
eggs are placed between these slots muslin, which is tightly drawn over narrow slats
by merely pushing the frame the running lengthwise the bottom of the drawer.

eggs will turn over, exactly on the
same principle that an egg will roll
when it is pushed by a block, a
book, or anything else; but we
believe the method is patented, and
do not advise infringement.
Having prepared the tank, let it be
covered with a box, but the box
fig. 6.
must not have any bottom. This is
Here we remove the front of the incubator in order to
to protect the tank against pressure show the positions of the ventilator, egg drawer, and
of water on the sides, and to assist tank. First the ventilator, then the egg drawer
in retaining heat. Such being done, (which of course should be longer than the others in
order to fit in the opening shown at Fig. 3, but
place your ventilator first, egg which we did not do here in order to mark the
drawer next, and tank last. Now places), and on the top is the tank. When the front is
place a support under the tank and completed the incubator is seen at Fig. 1.
the box, or have them rest on rods,
and as the weight of water will be great in the center, the iron rods should be
placed crosswise under the tank every 6 inches. Now fasten the three apartments
(ventilator, egg drawer, and tank) together, with boards nailed to the sides and
back and front (of course leaving the opening for the egg drawer), care being
taken to drive no nails in the egg drawer, as it must move in and out, and should
have a strong strip to rest on for that purpose. Having completed these
preparations make a larger box to go over all three, so that there will be a space
on the sides, back, front, and on top; but as the ventilator must be filled with
sawdust to within 1 inch of the top of the tubes, it serves for the bottom packing.
Make the outer box so that there will be room for filling all around the inside
box with sawdust, and also on top, being careful to let the tube for pouring in the
water come through, as also the spigot in front. About 4 inches or so thickness of
sawdust is sufficient, according to preference. The front of the incubator must be
packed also, but an idea of how it should be done may be learned by observing
the opening in Fig. 3, which is so constructed that the box in front of the egg
drawer (Fig. 4) exactly fits into it, and completes the packing when the drawer is
shut. The incubator should be raised from the floor about an inch, when
completed, to allow the air to pass under and thence into the ventilator tubes.

The incubator being complete, the tank is filled with boiling water. It must
remain untouched for twenty-four hours, as it requires time during which to heat
completely through. As it will heat slowly, it will also cool slowly. Let it cool
down to 120 deg., and then put in the eggs, or, what is better, run it without eggs
for a day or two in order to learn it and notice its variation. When the eggs are
put in, the drawer will cool down some. All that is required then is to add about a
bucket or so of water once or twice a day, but be careful about endeavoring to
get up heat suddenly, as the heat does not rise for five hours after the additional
bucket of water is added. The tank radiates the heat down on the eggs, there
being nothing between the iron bottom of the tank and the eggs, for the wood
over and around the tank does not extend across the bottom of the tank. The cool
air comes from below in the ventilator pipes, passing through the muslin bottom
of the egg drawer to the eggs. The 15×30-inch tank incubator holds 100 eggs if
turned by hand, but less if the eggs are placed between slats. Lay the eggs in the
same [way] as in a nest—promiscuously.

DIRECTIONS.
Keep the heat inside the egg drawer as near 103 deg. as possible; the third week
at 104 deg. Avoid opening the egg drawer frequently, as it allows too much
escape of heat. Be sure your thermometer records correctly, as half the failures
are due to incorrect thermometers, and not one in twenty is correct. Place the
bulb of the thermometer even with the top of the eggs, that is, when the
thermometer is lying down in the drawer. The upper end should be slightly
raised, so as to allow the mercury to rise, but the bulb and eggs should be of the
same heat, as the figures record the heat in the bulb and not in the tube. Keep a
pie pan filled with water in the ventilator for moisture and keep two or three
moist sponges in the egg drawer, displacing a few eggs for the purpose. Turn the
eggs half way round twice a day at regular intervals. Let the eggs cool down for
fifteen minutes once every day, but do not let them cool lower than 70 deg. No
sprinkling is required if the sponges are kept moist. If the heat gets up to 110
deg. or as low as 60 deg. for a little while it is not necessarily fatal. Too much
heat is more prevalent than too little. A week’s practice in operating the
incubator will surprise one how simple the work is. The tank will be troublesome
to fill at first, but the matter will be easy after it is done, as it can be kept hot.
Heat the water in two or more boilers, as a large quantity will be required, and
pour it in through the tube on top of the incubator boiling hot, using a funnel in

the tube for the purpose. Just at the time of hatching out do not be tempted to
frequently open the drawer. Cold draughts are fatal. Patience must be exercised.

BROODERS.
An excellent brooder may be made with a tank of hot water, covered well, the
same as the incubator. A piece of muslin or woolen cloth should be next the
bottom to prevent burning the chicks. Keep the heat among the chicks at about
90 deg. Let the tank rest on inch boards with no opening under it, but in front; a
fringe should hang in front for the chicks to run in and out under the tank. A little
yard may be constructed of glass sash, something like a hot-bed. Feed the chicks
four or five times a day, at first on hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, giving them
also a little milk, fine screenings, and millet seed. After they are a week old feed
anything they can eat, but never feed meal in a raw state, as it should be scalded
first. Keep a little sand, fine gravel, and bone-meal within reach of them all the
time, and see that they are always dry, clean, and warm. Do not crowd them, as
the fewer the number together the better, and never have different ages together.
This incubator will hatch chicks, ducks, turkeys, or guineas, and we see no
reason why it should not hatch the egg of the ostrich or anything else as well.
Chicks hatched by in­cu­ba­tors, if rightly cared for, do better than with hens, and
are stronger and more vigorous.
We have endeavored here to embody all the answers to questions that we
suppose may be asked. Should you be in doubt, read the directions carefully
again. We trust that with the help of our illustrations our readers will have no
difficulties in the way.—The Poultry Keeper.

A Cheap Charcoal Stove.

I saw the other day at a friend’s house one of the simplest and
most effective stoves for a small conservatory it is possible to
imagine. It was composed of three 12-inch ordinary flower
pots. The hole at the bottom of the lowest was covered with a
small pot, into the sides of which had been bored a number of
holes. The pot was then three parts filled with charcoal, and
lighted from the top. This is the furnace. It is covered by pots
Nos. 2 and 3, and a light tin funnel and chimney carry off the
vapor. The draught is maintained by placing the apparatus on
a couple of bricks, and regulated by closing the intervening
space with mud, leaving only a sufficient aperture to keep the
fire burning. This improvised stove will burn without attention for twenty-four
hours, and it is amazing what a great amount of heat is given off from so small a
surface.—S. J., in the Gardener’s Chronicle.

Preservative Compounds.
Within a few years some valuable methods of keeping meats, fish, oysters, fruits,
fruit juices, milk, butter, etc., in a healthful, nutritious, and palatable condition for a
considerable time past the ordinary period of their decay have been discovered. In
the following treatise we give the results of the most patient research in securing all
the latest and most valuable information in regard to this important subject.
We will not deal with processes which necessitate complicated apparatus or which
require almost impossible chemical combinations, but we will explain inventions
which have un­doubt­ed value combined with as much simplicity in the preparation
as the circumstances will permit.
Of all the anti-septic agents used for the purposes mentioned boracic acid is the
favorite, and salicylic acid next in choice. Various other anti-septic agents are used
and combined in different ways, according to the results of experiments. They are
applied either by immersion, coating, injecting, vapors, etc., according to specified
instructions.
Prof. Frederic S. Barff of Kilburn, England, it seems was the first to combine
boracic acid with glycerine, and to produce a preservative compound known as
boroglyceride, which is soluble in water and alcohol. As boracic acid is but slightly
soluble in water and other common solvents this combination with glycerine—
which is also a useful agent in arresting the growth of germs—is peculiarly

valuable. It is tasteless and inodorous and imparts no dis­agree­able taste or odor to
the substance being treated. Solutions of the compound may be applied to the
preservation of all organic substances, either animal or vegetable. The process was
patented in England in 1881 and in the United States in 1882.
To prepare boroglyceride, glycerine is heated to near its boiling point and boracic
acid added until it ceases to be dissolved, the proportions being about 92 parts by
weight of glycerine to 62 parts by weight of boracic acid in chrystals. Maintain the
mixture to a temperature of about 200 deg. centigrade as long as water is given off.
When the mass cools it becomes a yellowish, transparent, glacial substance, tough
and deliquescent. This dissolves in water, but when boiled in large quantities of the
same it is decomposed into glycerine and boracic acid. In order to employ the
compound prepare a solution either in water, alcohol, or other suitable solvent and
immerse in or impregnate with such solutions the organic substances to be operated
upon. Solutions may be prepared of various degrees of strength, but it has been
found that a solution consisting of 1 part by weight of the compound and 40 parts
by weight of water will give good results; but other desired proportions may be
adopted.
Prof. Barff, the inventor of the boroglyceride process, read a paper before the Royal
Society of Arts, London, in regard to his method of preserving food. The date of the
reading is not at hand, but it is supposed to be slightly prior to May 13, 1882, on
which date it was printed in the Scientific American Supplement. Although quite
lengthy the paper contains so much interesting data and light upon the subject that
we reproduce it almost entirely, together with remarks by other eminent gentlemen
who were present at the meeting:
“This evening I have on the table specimens of food which have been kept for
longer or shorter periods, as they are intended to illustrate various applications of
this preserving material. As you know oysters are imported very largely in tins.
They are cooked at a high temperature and hermetically sealed. The high
temperature to which they are exposed necessarily causes a loss of flavor, and it is
generally remarked that tinned oysters are not a success. * * * I have oysters on the
table which were opened on the 3d of December in last year. I will ask you to taste
them and see in what condition they are, and I would also remind you that they
have not been kept in hermetically sealed tins, but simply in corked or stoppered
bottles; hence this method of preserving oysters is cheaper than the other, and I
maintain that it is more effective, because their natural and fresh flavor is
preserved. I am informed by a friend in Jamaica that he has sent me some Jamaica

oysters and other things—I trust they will be here in time for me to submit them to
you this evening.
“Another substance, the perfect preservation of which is very important, is cream,
both for home use and for exportation. Cream in London costs from four to five
shillings per quart; it can be bought in country places for two shillings, and even for
less. This preservative substance will keep cream for months perfectly good and
sweet, having its full flavor; so that it would be quite possible to send it in
quantities from the country, and its sale need not be pressed as it need not be used
immediately. I have regularly every week, except during the holidays, brought with
me from Beaumont College, near Windsor, where I lecture, a quart of cream treated
with one ounce of the boroglyceride; it has always kept perfectly good even in the
hottest weather. I have done this for a year and a half; a near relative has taken the
greater part of this regularly for the time stated, and this proves conclusively that
there is nothing at all injurious to health in the compound. I see a gentleman present
here to-night who is connected with that college as a professor of natural science,
and he will, in the discussion, be able to give you very valuable information as to
the material and as to its perfect wholesomeness. Last month I sent some cream to
the Rev. J. Ryan, a Jesuit priest in Jamaica, and I have received a letter from him,
from which I will read you an extract:
‘26 North Street, Kingston, Jamaica,
‘February 24, 1882.
‘The cream which you sent was used by eight of us in coffee, and was
pronounced to be wonderfully good. Next morning it was taken in
preference to a beaten egg, by the captain of H. M. S. Tenedos, to his
coffee.’
“Last year I sent some Devonshire clotted cream, which I prepared myself, to
Zanzibar, on the east coast of Africa. The climate here is very hot; fresh food will
only keep a few hours. This cream had to pass through the hot climate of the Red
Sea. I will read an extract from a letter written by a lady who received the cream:
‘Universities Mission To Central Africa,
‘Mbweni, Zanzibar, March 8, 1881.
‘The Devonshire cream you sent us was quite a success. I received it last
night. Fortunately the Bishop and Miss A—— came to Mbweni, to-day, so
we had it for dinner. That I might have everything correct I opened a pot of

raspberry jam which we had from London a long time ago. The Bishop
said it had kept perfectly, but had not quite the rich flavor that it has when
quite fresh; he has been used to it in Devonshire. Every one pronounced it
most excellent. We sent some in to Mrs. H——, and were surprised at her
sending for more, for she seldom eats half anything we send her. She did
not know what it was, but she said she had never had anything here she
enjoyed so much.’
“A year ago I sent some cream from Beaumont College dairy to the Rev. Thomas
Porter, the head of the Jesuit Mission in the West Indies. He states that the cream
was as good as any he had eaten at home, that he gave it to several strangers to eat,
and that they would not believe that it came from England. These experiments and
these testimonies prove conclusively that this compound will preserve cream. I
shall this evening show you specimens. It is easy to send cream in good condition
to the tropics. A great objection to condensed milk is that it is always too sweet.
The boroglyceride will preserve condensed milk, and will give it no flavor at all.
My friend, the Rev. Thomas Porter, sent me some articles preserved with the
material which I sent him from England. They arrived about June in last year. Some
raw, fresh turtle came quite fresh. It was cooked and eaten by several persons, who
said it was quite fresh and good, and had the flavor of fresh turtle. At my own
house I had turtle cutlets fried; they were perfectly good, and tasted like turtle.
Another article which Father Porter sent me was an uncooked Jamaica pigeon; it
was roasted at Beaumont College. I divided it and brought half of it home It was
tasted by twelve people, who all pronounced that it was perfectly good, and had the
true pigeon flavor. In the same parcel came some green sugar-cane, fresh tamarinds
taken direct from the tree, fresh limes, and the juices of two different fruits. All
were fresh, and were tasted by gentlemen who had lived in Jamaica, who all
declared that they had all their own peculiar flavors. On the 3d of September, 1881,
another box was sent me from Jamaica, containing sugar-cane, guavas, fresh
ginger, and turtle; the turtle had come to grief, because it was not properly treated
on the other side; the cane, guavas, and fresh ginger have been tasted by those who
have lived in Jamaica, and have been pronounced to have their true flavors.
“Ordinary milk cannot be kept good for a long time, especially in hot weather. If
milk were concentrated in this country, and heated with the boroglyceride, carriage
would be saved, and the milk might be kept good and fresh for a fortnight and
more; all it would require would be to reduce it again to its original strength. If
fresh milk be treated with this preservative it can be set for cream for several days,
even in hot weather. The cream which rises will keep, and the skim-milk will

remain sweet for several weeks; this I have tried in the dairy at Beaumont College.
From the cream so prepared butter was made, and was kept for several weeks
without a particle of salt, and was eaten by members of the college. I also wish to
show another method by which meat can be preserved and cheaply transported. In
South America, about Buenos Ayres and the River Platte, many cattle are killed
simply for the hides and fat; the flesh is thrown away. Now, if this flesh were cut up
in small pieces, and put into the preserving liquid for a night, it would, even in that
hot climate, keep good for some time. It could then in a few hours be dried in the
sun, packed in casks, and sent to this or to other countries. I have a specimen of
beef treated in this way. It was put into the solution on Jan. 19, 1882, dried Feb. 1,
and has lately, within a few days, been boiled, and here is the resulting beef tea,
which has not in any way been flavored. I have also small quantities of beef juice
here preserved in bottles. The juice was expressed and has been kept raw. Raw beef
and mutton juice is recommended by medical men in many conditions of the
digestive system. I administered it to a near relation for six weeks, and the juice
was preserved good by my material. In the case referred to the effect was very
satisfactory. It appears to me to be a most important matter that soup meat, and
meat for potting and stewing, should be sent to this country in the way I propose.
The supply would be large, the prices low, and the profits highly satisfactory, and it
would greatly relieve the meat market, because a very large quantity of fresh meat
which is now used for soup could be employed in other ways. It has been remarked
to me: ‘But would you get people to use it?’ I think, to begin with, that if
proprietors of hotels and heads of large public institutions, workhouses, and
hospitals could be shown that for half the cost they could have equally good soup
and soup stock, they would willingly use it, and from thence it would come into
private use. I have specimens to show the effect of boroglyceride on fish. Here are
sprats which have been kept for a year; they are dry, but perfectly good and eatable;
also some preserved fresh since Jan. 13, 1882. You will be able to judge of their
appearance and flavor. I have also herrings and a piece of skate which have been
preserved for the same time. If fishmongers had a tank of this solution they could,
at the end of the day, put their fish in it, and take them out when required. Bloaters,
when lightly cured in hot weather, do not keep good many days; if a small quantity
of this stuff was used with the salt, they would keep good for months. The same
may be said of smoked salmon. That which is very salt costs 9d. per pound, but the
mild cured kinds cost 3s. 6d. to 4s. per pound. All could be mildly cured if this
material was used with the other curing substances. As an adjunct in curing mild
hams and bacon it would be of great use, for these, when cured lightly, would not

go bad, as they often do in the summer time. What I have said as to the temporary
preservation of fish by fishmongers applies equally to the preservation of meat and
fowls by butchers and poulterers.
“It is justly complained of that the Australian cooked meat is overcooked. If it were
for a short time dropped in this preservative solution it would keep perfectly well
after being lightly cooked, even underdone. I have a piece of beef which was
dipped Feb. 28 and boiled on March 9. It has been left in its own liquid, it was not
flavored, and no salt was added. Here, too, is a vast field for the application of the
process. Here is also lobster which was taken out of the shell Feb. 1, and here are
two lobsters in their shell which were immersed on the same day.
“I now wish to draw your attention to a parcel from Jamaica, which has just
arrived, and from which I am able, I am happy to say, to show you specimens
which must be of interest. In a jar on the table is some fresh turtle, which I had
simply cooked. I thought it better so to present it to you rather than raw. There is
also a Jamaica pigeon, also just cooked here, and a vol au vent, which I have had
made from oysters which were sent open in the preserving stuff from Jamaica.
These specimens will prove conclusively that food sent from a tropical climate
retains its freshness and delicate flavor. I have reserved one of the pigeons raw, that
you may see in what state it arrived. Some mutton was shipped to me from the
Falkland Islands at the beginning of last August; a piece of it is uncooked on the
table. I have also had a piece stewed, which you will be able to taste; this has of
course passed the tropics. Through the kindness of my friend Mr. Haffenden of the
‘Andaluzia,’ in the Strand, who owns vineyards in the southwest of Spain, I can
show you some perfectly fresh sardines which he had placed in the preserving fluid
several months ago in Spain, and which he brought with him. You will yourselves
judge of their condition; I will only remark that they have the peculiar fragrance of
that delicate fish, and will it not be a boon to have a supply of this fresh delicacy at
a moderate cost?
“You will also see, and I hope taste, a pigeon pie. The pigeons and the steak have
been preserved raw in stoppered bottles since the 21st of last November and the
eggs since the 4th of July, 1881. I will also call your attention to a tongue which I
myself placed in the solution Feb. 9 in this year, with some garlic, sugar, and
juniper berries, my object being to show that salt can, if desired, be dispensed with.
You will doubtless find that it will require salt; but you will readily infer that hams,
tongues, etc., can be made just as salt as one pleases, and will yet keep perfectly
sweet, in fact sounder, than those cured only with salt. This tongue was boiled out

of pickle. I exhibit two shoulders of mutton, one cooked, the other raw; they are
from sheep killed Jan. 10, 1882. Also a piece of beef preserved on the same day;
this when you have inspected it shall be cut in slices and broiled. You will see some
sausages, both cooked and uncooked; they were made for me by Mr. Bowron,
poulterer, of Paddington, early in July last, before I went to Carlsbad. I took some
with me to that place, and they were there eaten and pronounced good. These are
some of the same lot; they were made as follows: The meat was chopped, put into
the preserving fluid for one night, and then mixed with the other material in the
ordinary way. They have been kept since in an earthenware jar; they have,
therefore, been made more than nine months. I may remark that the bread in these
sausages was not treated, and therefore it has become slightly sour, but the pork has
kept perfectly fresh. I have also some other sausages which I bought Jan. 12, and at
once preserved; these having been steeped, the bread has not turned in the slightest
degree sour.
“Mock turtle soup, bought ready made from a confectioner’s shop in Oxford street,
Jan. 25, treated with the preservative stuff, has remained quite good and unchanged
in flavor.
“There is also a specimen of gravy soup made in October last, and some vermicelli
soup made about three weeks ago. The preservative action of boroglyceride in
cooked foods is, it seems to me, of great importance to hotel-keepers,
confectioners, and restaurant proprietors, as it will enable them to buy large stocks
when certain articles are cheap, and from the specimen I show of cooked beef you
see it remains quite moist, as it can be kept, without getting sour, in its own gravy
and under a layer of its own fat. To prove that articles can be kept and dried without
losing their flavor, I had some partridges treated and dried last February
twelvemonth, and I exhibit some soup made from two of these birds. The other
articles on the table are one raw and one roast fowl, bought Jan. 17; one raw and
one roast pheasant, bought Feb. 5; one rabbit boiled, bought Jan. 17. There are also
from Jamaica a green lime, some fresh tamarinds, and some pieces of fresh ginger.
***
“I thank you, ladies and gentlemen, for the patient hearing you have given me.”
DISCUSSION.
The Chairman said the paper was marked by the clear and philosophic way in
which the subject was treated, and before inviting discussion upon it he would
mention shortly his own experience of the process, the only interest of which was

that it was quite independent of Prof. Barff. When he was asked to take the chair he
communicated with Mr. Barff, and inquired what the process was. Mr. Barff kindly
sent him a specimen of this substance, which he melted, and put some of it into
one-half of a pint of cream. The other half very soon turned sour, and had to be
thrown away, but that to which the substance was added was perfectly fresh that
morning. He was confirmed in the opinion of its freshness by the cook, though she
said there was a very slight tartness perceptible, by which she could distinguish it
from fresh cream. He had also tried another experiment on meat which was
chopped very fine, and divided into two parts; to one part he added merely tepid
water, to the other, tepid water to which one-sixteenth of its bulk of this compound
had been added. This was left on the meat for eighteen hours, and then filtered off
through muslin. Several days ago the portion which had no preservative was very
offensive, but the other portion was that morning perfectly free from any odor
whatever.
The Rev. J. L. Dobson said he had had the pleasure of being associated with Mr.
Barff in most of the experiments he had detailed, and might therefore anticipate his
reply to one or two points raised by Dr. Graham. An experiment which was tried for
some time in a large school would answer the question of wholesomeness. At the
Beaumont College, Windsor, there was a large staff of teachers and over 200 pupils,
and during the hot weather of last summer the dairymaid was very much annoyed
at the milk turning sour, and applied to him to see if he could do anything to
counteract it. He handed her some 14 or 15 lbs. of this material and during the
whole of the hot weather and well on into September it was constantly used, and
the milk was preserved; but the method was not detected by any one, either by the
younger members or by those who might be expected to be more critical. No ill
effects were observed by the medical officer or by individuals. From his own
experience he thought the aroma was very well preserved throughout. For instance,
in oysters which had been preserved over three months there was the characteristic
aroma of the fresh oyster; mutton could be easily distinguished from beef, and the
peculiar smell of the turtle was also very distinct. They had not yet tried beer with
so much fullness as other articles, but about nine months ago a small quantity was
treated and left exposed to the air, with only a loose stopper of cotton wool. It did
not grow cloudy in the ordinary way, but owing to the severity of the experiment,
and perhaps to not sufficiently treating it, after four months it lost all flavor,
became extremely flat, and a slight fungus appeared.
Dr. Thudichum had listened with great pleasure to the paper, and had no doubt if
the application of the invention could be effected on a large scale it would be very

useful. He had some experience with regard to a portion of the ingredients used,
viz.: boracic acid, though he had none of this beautiful new compound. It might not
be known to the meeting that boracic acid had been used for a great many years for
preserving food, and in fact many of them in summer time had their milk well
dosed with it. It had been sold to milkmen in London for years under the name of
“aseptin.” He had tested it in 1865 and found a great many of those effects which
Mr. Barff described. For instance eggs were beautifully preserved, and steak
immersed in the solution did not become either mouldy or decomposed, but on the
contrary appeared to retain its flavor. A variety of other things, such as cheese and
cream, were for a long time preserved by this application of aseptin. He hoped the
addition of the glycerine would increase the power and prevent some drawbacks
which would otherwise stand in the way of boracic acid alone as a preservative of
raw or cooked meat.
Prof. Barff, in reply to the various questions which had been asked, said he had
used salicylic acid and had found it useful in preserving food, but for several
reasons discontinued further investigations, one being on the score of its
unwholesomeness, and he found that his views on that point had been borne out by
the action taken by the French Government. Dr. Graham had asked him about
flavor; he had given Dr. Graham a few days ago some specimens of preserved fish,
which he said had lost their flavor, but that would not be found to be the case with
the box of sardines. The herrings had been kept in an open vessel exposed to the air
ever since the day they were put into the liquid, and therefore it was not surprising
that they had lost their flavor. If they would try any of the things which had been
tinned, not soldered up, but such as the Jamaica pigeons, which were in a common
corked bottle, it would be found that the aroma and flavor were retained. The only
thing requisite was to keep the vessel so as to exclude the air, as you would with tea
or coffee. Dr. Thudichum made some very interesting remarks which there was not
time to refer to at length, if he were competent to do so, but not being a medical
man he could not enter into medical questions. As to the wholesomeness of the
compound, however, he might say that he had taken large quantities of it himself
and it had never done him any harm; and a near relative had taken an ounce per
week regularly for a year and a half, without any ill effect—a person, too, not very
strong or of good digestive powers. The boys and teachers of Beaumont College
drank milk preserved with it without distinguishing the taste or suffering any ill
effects. He knew there were medical opinions in favor of boracic acid, and one
physician he was acquainted with used it as a medicine. If it were at all
unwholesome he certainly should not recommend it, but he did not think there was

the slightest fear. As to boron getting into the system, it was not boron which was
used, but oxide of boron; but even if it did—and he should not be surprised if traces
of boron were found in the excreta—it did not follow that any harm was done.
There were many things which went through the system without injury; for
instance, silica, of which most people took a great deal in the twenty-four hours. As
to the cost of the process the cost per gallon, as far as he could tell—he could not
tell exactly—would be under 1s.—perhaps 8d. or 9d.—and a gallon would affect an
enormous quantity. Most of the articles on the table were put into one pan of
1
solution, and the cost of the whole stuff was about 9 2 d. Should the process be
adopted commercially experiments as to the cost would be most carefully made and
the results published. A joint of any size could be soaked; the only thing was to give
it plenty of time. You might soak a piece of beef of twenty pounds, forty pounds, or
fifty pounds; or you might use an injecting syringe, such as butchers employed for
salting meat quickly, and the meat so treated would keep for a week or a fortnight
perfectly good, but he did not think it would keep well enough to pass under a
tropical sun. In order to do that you must inject by the aorta, by means of a force
pump, so as to send the liquid into all the interstices of the flesh. As to the
proportions, 1 in 20 was the strongest he used, and 1 in 60 the weakest; for
preserving meat 1 in 50 answered perfectly well—1 lb. of the compound added to
50 lbs. of water. The bottle should be put before the fire until melted, and then
poured into hot water, and it would dissolve. With regard to preserving morbid
specimens he thought it would answer perfectly well. He had had some practice in
morbid anatomy, and he might say that, for the injection of bodies to be used for
anatomical purposes it would keep them perfectly sweet. It should be injected by
the aorta in the usual way before injecting with the red wax. In reply to Mr. Dipnall
he would say that the compound penetrated right through into the innermost parts
of the meat. If you had an earthen pan and put into it 1 lb. of this and 50 lbs. of
water, and placed in it a joint which came home on the Saturday night in hot
weather, you could take it out the next day and it would keep perfectly for a
fortnight. Of course it took time to penetrate into the meat, but the first superficial
penetration stopped the injurious effects of germs which set up putrefaction.
Another important fact was this: if you had a roast leg of lamb, perfectly good, but
did not eat it all, and put it away in hot weather, it would turn sour, but if it had
been treated in this way it would not; it would keep for six months without going
sour. By adding a small quantity from time to time, which you could only learn by
experience, the bath would keep perfectly fresh and effective, though it would be
found after a time to get rather dark colored. That arose from the juice of the meat,

and the advantage of this process was that you need not throw it away, as you must
brine, but could boil it down into very good soup. In conclusion he would only ask
his hearers to read the paper and discussion carefully when published, and he was
sure any one would be able to carry out the process.
The Chairman, in proposing a hearty vote of thanks to Prof. Barff, said the process
he had described was remarkable for its great simplicity and the ease with which it
could be carried out. Any cook could readily apply it.
The vote of thanks was carried unanimously.

An Improved Boracic Acid-Glycerine Compound.
The following is the invention of an American, William S. Fickett of Rochester,
N. Y., and is an improved process of combining boracic acid with glycerine for
preservative purposes. (Patent No. 285,350.)
“My invention consists in a new mode of producing a new preservative compound
from boracic acid and glycerine, as hereinafter described. Heretofore by one
method* such a compound has been produced from these ingredients by heating
glycerine to near its boiling point and adding boracic acid until it ceases to be
dissolved, and maintaining that mixture to a temperature of 200 deg. centigrade as
long as water is given off, etc.
* Doubtless the Barff process—[author].
“Now my process consists in taking equal quantities of glycerine and crystallized
boracic acid, placing the same in a closed or sealed vessel, and then applying heat
at about 300 deg. Fahrenheit for about two hours, which causes the boracic acid to
dissolve and blend with the glycerine. On cooling it forms without loss of weight
into on opalescent semi-solid, freely soluble in cold water, entirely devoid of bitter
or metallic taste, and communicating no objectionable taste to butter or like delicate
foods. When thus produced it is an unfailing preventive of fermentation and decay
in animal and vegetable matter or fluid compounds.”
The following is a different process of using boracic acid, and explains itself:
James Howard, Philadelphia, Pa.; composition for preserving foods. (Patent No.
276,246.)
“I have discovered a method of obtaining a chemical compound of boracic acid for
the production of which neither solution nor the employment of heat is necessary,
the salt being formed by the union of the component substances in a dry state, so

that the difficulties of solution and of loss through volitization is avoided.
Moreover the compound has anti-septic properties distinct from those of the acid,
due to one of the other elements thereof, and is tasteless.
“I take preferably not less than 5 parts by weight of pure boracic acid in crystals,
and add thereto 1 part of pure phosphate of soda. The ingredients are mixed
together dry, in a mill or other suitable grinding apparatus, and as the chemical
reaction between them progresses the whole, or practically the whole, of the acid
crystals lose their structure, and the mass can be ground until it assumes a pasty or
doughy condition. The result is boro-phosphate of soda, containing more or less
free boracic acid, according to the excess thereof used above the proportions given.
The moisture yielded by the chemical reaction is evaporated at the ordinary
temperature by exposure to the air without loss of boracic acid, and the dry
amorphous salt thus produced is readily ground. It may be used either as a dry
powder or may be dissolved in water and applied in the usual modes to the
substances to be preserved. If desired other substances, such as salt and saltpeter,
may be added to the boro-phosphate compound, and the whole mixed thoroughly
by regrinding.”

Preservation of Butter, Lard, Etc.
The following process is the invention of Mr. William Pitt Clotworthy. (Patent No.
284,184.)
The process consists of incorporating with the fat, which may consist of butter,
lard, or other grease, a sufficient amount of paraffine. Paraffine is non-oxidizable,
without taste or odor, and, as the inventor claims, it is perfectly harmless when used
in this manner, just as beeswax is swallowed with honey, although not in such large
proportion. Tons of paraffine are manufactured yearly into chewing gum and
chewed harmlessly by thousands.
In preserving butter the process is as follows: Take 1 ounce of fresh unsalted butter
and incorporate with it 1 ounce of paraffine, and thus form a jelly, and then
thoroughly mix this amount of jelly with 1 pound of butter.
In preserving lard combine the paraffine as follows: When the lard is ready to be
drawn off from the rendering kettles, and while still hot, add 1 ounce of paraffine to
each pound of lard and stir the mass thoroughly.
Compound for Preserving Food.

Theodore L. Corwin of Marathon, N. Y., has invented the following. (Patent No.
253,983):
The invention relates to the class of compounds used to preserve in a healthful state
such articles of food as meats, fish, milk, eggs, butter, oysters, cider, and also to be
used as a disinfectant and to arrest putrefaction.
“I take of nitrate of potassium, of salicylic acid, and of chloride of sodium, each 1
ounce. These should all be in powder and dissolved in 1 quart of water. Then add 1
drachm of hydro­chloric acid previously diluted with 1 ounce of water. To preserve
meat immerse for twenty minutes in the hot solution, after which let it drain for one
hour; then pack in a well-closed vessel. For the preservation of fish use the same as
for meat, only the solution should be allowed to become cold before using. To keep
oysters stir into them 3 ounces of the solution (cold) to each gallon of oysters.
Cider will be kept sweet if there is added to each barrel 1 quart of the solution
immediately after the cider comes from the press. Milk to be kept sweet should
have the powder first named, viz.: nitrate of potassium, salicylic acid, and chloride
of sodium, each 1 ounce, added to every 16 gallons. As a disinfectant the solution
should be sprinkled freely around the place or places to be disinfected. To prevent
putrefaction the solution should be copiously applied to the object treated.”

Fruit-Juice Preservatives.
An Ohio inventor has patented a process for preserving fruit juices such as cider,
wine, etc., which he says, if treated according to his directions, will keep
unchanged for years:
“The juice is taken before fermentation takes place and boiled, all scum is carefully
skimmed off, and then the liquid, while still hot, is filtered through a compound of
partially pulverized charcoal, crushed mustard seed, and ground sassafras root. The
filter should be covered with fine woven wire, outside of which should be fastened
a flannel cloth to catch all escaping sediment. To every gallon of juice to be filtered
there is placed in the filter 2 ounces of charcoal, 2 scruples of crushed mustard
seed, and 6 drachms of ground sassafras root. After filtering it is again boiled, and
if any scum or impurities appear on the surface they are removed, when the juice is
to be bottled, corked tightly, and should be left for one year.”
Schaumberg & Dillon’s method of preserving fruit juices consists in bottling and
sealing the juices, and then heating the bottles to 170 deg. Fahrenheit for thirty-five
minutes. The juices are put in bottles and are immediately corked and wired

securely, and then submerged in a water bath to a depth of about 1 inch above the
bottles.
The advantages of this process are that the fruit juices will remain sweet
indefinitely, will not ferment, and are free from all deleterious matter.
Smoke or Vapor Preserving Compound.
Rebecca A. McDaniel of Burr Oaks, Ia., has patented the following, which is one of
quite a number of this class of preservative processes:
“In preserving different articles, such as fruits, meats, and other edibles, I subject
them for a proper time—differing with different articles—to the fumes arising from
burning the compound. This may be accomplished by confining the articles to be
treated in a chamber in which the compound is being burned.
COMPOSITION.
Salicylic acid 1 ounce.
Sulphur 2 pounds.
Pulverized orange peel 1
ounce.
4

Ground cinnamon 3 ounces.
“This compound well mixed will burn slowly and generate fumes or vapor which
have a peculiar action in the preservation of fruits, butter, milk, pies, bread, eggs,
and all kinds of cooked or uncooked food. In treating meats add nitrate of potash, 4
ounces.
“Treatment: Provide a box or other chamber with shelves upon which the articles to
be treated may be placed. Within the chamber, properly closed, I burn a suitable
quantity of the compound, allowing the fumes to bathe the articles to be treated.
The compound is of a quality that will burn slowly by reason of its peculiar
composition, and it may be burned with fuel other than it contains.”
Salicylic Acid as a Preservative.
Salicylic acid, aside from its remedial value, is used largely as a preservative, either
in a dry state or in the form of a solution in water or alcohol. Salicylic acid is a
white, dry, crystalline powder, devoid of smell or taste, undergoes no change when
kept in store, and is neither inflammable nor volatile. It can be procured in almost
any drug store, and since 1874 a new process in its manufacture has cheapened it in
price and placed it within the reach of all.

Medical authorities agree in considering the daily consumption of 1 gramme as
being not only perfectly inoffensive, but decidedly beneficial to health. An
individual living on a salicylated diet would not absorb so much of the salicylic
acid per diem as that which is prescribed to be taken for the prevention of
epidemics and other ailments, such as gout, rheumatism, catarrhal affections, etc.
The proportions in which salicylic acid dissolves are:
One part by weight in 300 to 500 parts of cold water.
One part by weight in 18 to 20 parts of hot water.
One part by weight in 50 parts of glycerine.
One part by weight in 3 parts of absolute alcohol.
In rum, brandy, wine, cider, etc., it dissolves according to their respective strengths
and temperatures.
Note.—By contact with iron in any form salicylic acid takes a violet color.
This must be noted, especially when treating milk, etc., if contained in metallic
vessels. The only bad effects will be simply slight discoloration.
MEAT.

It is a well-known fact that, especially in hot weather, meat, poultry, and game,
although apparently quite fresh, prove, on closer examination, or often only when
cooked, to be tainted and of bad odor. This can be entirely removed by either
watering and washing the meat in a lukewarm solution of salicylic acid (three to
four teaspoonfuls of acid to two quarts of water), or by adding a small pinch of the
dry acid in powder, during the cooking.
To keep meat for several days from becoming high or tainted:
Place it for twenty or thirty minutes in an aqueous solution of 8 drachms of
salicylic acid to one gallon of water.
Rub into the surface of the meat some dry salicylic acid, particularly about the bony
and fatty parts; the meat to be afterward cleaned before cooking as usual.
Although the raw meat treated with the acid turns slightly pale on the surface it
suffers no change whatever internally. Meat thus treated with salicylic acid
requires, also, less cooking to render it tender.
PURE MILK.

A third of a teaspoonful (or, if the temperature be high, a little more) of the solid
acid to a quart of milk delays the process of curdling for thirty-six hours, without

influencing its property of yielding cream.
BUTTER.

Washed with an aqueous solution (four drachms of acid to a gallon of water), or
kept in it, or wrapped in cloths soaked in this water, keeps fresh for a very long
time. Butter already rancid can be improved by treatment with a stronger solution
(8 drachms of acid to 1 gallon of water), followed by washing in pure water. The
bad smell often arising in salted butter is entirely prevented by addition of the acid.
JAMS OF ALL KINDS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, AND PICKLES.

Of every description, made in the usual way, but with the addition of about 1
drachm of salicylic acid to every 4 pounds of the preserve, will keep sound with
absolute certainty for a much longer time, fermentation and mouldiness being
prevented. Under exceptionally unfavorable circumstances, such as hot pantries, a
little of the dry acid should be sprinkled on the top of the vessel or preserve pot. A
tightly-fitting piece of blotting paper, previously saturated with a concentrated
solution of salicylic acid in spirit, brandy, or rum, and placed on the top of the
preserves will also greatly aid in keeping them.
NEW-LAID EGGS

Can be kept for a very long time by being placed for half an hour in a cold,
saturated, aqueous solution of the acid, then allowed to dry in the air, and, as usual,
kept in a cool place. Some prefer to coat them by dipping them in melted paraffine
after they have been treated in this manner. (Use no straw or hay in packing eggs.)
THE YOLK AND THE WHITE OF EGGS
1
Are most effectually preserved for a long time by the addition of 2 to 1 ounce of the
acid per 20 pounds of these substances. It is also well to place a paper soaked in the
salicylic acid solution on the top of them, which greatly enhances the preserving
effect.
In the manufacture of vinegar, salicylic acid is also of great importance to prevent
false or excessive fermentation, putridity, etc.
WINE.

With respect to wine the experiments of Prof. Neubauer of Wiesbaden have proved
that the introduction of the acid for the preservation of wine marks an era of great
industrial progress, as it energetically prevents, even when used in very small
quantities, the formation of mould germs and other circumstances which are
injurious to wine, while it absolutely arrests secondary fermentation, cloudiness,

etc. As wine differs very much in its constitution the requisite quantity of salicylic
1 3
acid must be found out by practice in each particular case. About 4 to 4 of an ounce
per 50 gallons will be found sufficient for most wines. In using the salicylic acid
for this purpose it is recommended to make a strong solution of it in pure spirit,
perfectly free from fusel oil, and then to add of this solution as much as may be
requisite.
If in addition to this the casks are washed out with an aqueous solution of the acid it
will prove of great service, and all other agents at present used for this purpose will
soon be abandoned. The larger the amount of sugar in proportion to the alcohol the
more salicylic acid will be required. The addition is best made when the wine has
attained its full ripeness. The effervescence of wine in spring, or after carriage in
warm weather, will at once be stopped. The salicylic acid kills all kinds of germs,
and destroys the growth and action of any yeast which may still be present; it is
therefore of incalculable value in effectually preserving wine, and as a preventive
of the deterioration to which this liquid is subject.
Must, fresh from the press in autumn, can be kept without fermentation perfectly
1
fresh, bright, and sweet for six to eight months by the addition of 1 to 1 2 ounces per
3
50 gallon, or of 4 ounce per 100 bottles. Sparkling Must requires an addition of 6 to
7 ounces of salicylic acid per 100 gallons. In the same manner all kinds of fruit-
wine which, as is well known, soon turn sour, can be preserved by the addition of a
similar quantity of salicylic acid. Must kept still for transport can at any time be set
into fermentation by a slight addition of carbonate of soda and fresh yeast.
BEER.

Experiments made upon a large scale have placed beyond a doubt the remarkable
properties of salicylic acid as a preventive of secondary fermentation and acidity in
beer, and as a preservative of beer in a sound condition when sent out or exposed to
the noxious influences of warm cellars, change of temperature, etc. The amount of
salicylic acid required to produce the best effects in preserving beer varies
according to the quality of the malt liquor; but half an ounce per barrel of 36
imperial gallons will be very generally found to answer the purpose well. The
addition of the salicylic acid delays secondary fermentation in stock and export
beers, which may then be kept for any length of time without becoming unsound or
of unpleasant flavor. Less than a quarter ounce of the powder of salicylic acid per
barrel of boiling wort strewn into the same while turning out will destroy or
suspend the vitality of the false ferments, especially that of the lactic ferment, in the

fermenting vats, and this not only without injury to the yeast cells, but keeping
them free from parasitical growths. In this manner the fermentation will take a
steadier course and enable the liquor to attain its perfection during the ensuing still
fermentation in the cask, into which another quarter ounce or more of the acid is to
be given per barrel a fortnight before racking. Stout, and in fact all beers for export
to a hot climate, require rather more.
For long transports the acid in powder can be simply thrown into the export casks,
in which it dissolves in the course of three days instead of a week, which is
required by the cold beer lying quietly.
BOTTLED BEER NOT SALICYLATED IN THE CASK.

The clean bottles must be rinsed with a solution of 1 part of salicylic acid in 4 or 5
parts of spirit (free from fusel oil), which can be poured from 1 bottle to another.
Or, a small pinch of the acid in powder is placed in every bottle before filling.
The corks should always be boiled in water containing 1 ounce to the gallon, which
is also efficient in disinfecting tubes, taps, etc.
CIDER.
3
Dissolve 4 of an ounce of salicylic acid in a gallon of cider, and then add this
amount to each barrel of cider. This is superior to any preparation of lime. The
cider must be treated when fresh.
GLUE, GELATINE, GUM ARABIC SOLUTIONS, PASTE, SIZE, STARCH, INK, SKINS OF ALL
KINDS, ETC.

Are successfully preserved for a length of time from decomposition or deterioration
by means of salicylic acid. One-thousandth part of the acid introduced into a vat of
gelatine or into decoctions of animal matter, prevents their undergoing
decomposition for an indefinite period of time. Calico printers are using half a
pound of the acid to every 100 pounds of dressing starch, in order to entirely
preclude the disagreeable odor arising after awhile from dry goods in store.
IN THE PROCESS OF TANNING,

If the bark-color be slightly salicylated, this liquor will not undergo the change
which, instead of making the hides and skins swell, often causes the opposite effect,
contracting them by an alkaline action, and at the same time imparting to them a
putrid odor. Treatment with carbolic acid also leaves a most objectionable odor,
especially in fine leather goods. The use of salicylic acid will thus be found highly
remunerative to all tanners, as it has proved in the industries already alluded to.

IN SUGAR FACTORIES

Three drachms of salicylic acid are used to every 300 pounds of beetroot in the
diffusing liquor, in order to prevent fermentation, and for destroying the parasitical
growths, especially noticeable in the old material.
FOR DISINFECTING.

Fumigation with the acid purifies the air and walls of closed rooms. Simply
evaporate some on a heated shovel, which must not be red-hot.
The air in crowded buildings, schools, barracks, hospitals, factories, etc., will be
improved by keeping the floors sprinkled with the solution. In sick rooms this is of
great importance, the dust settling on the floor being the readiest receptacle and
means of transmitting the microscopic fungi or germs of infection which float in
the air.
VESSELS, CORKS, ETC.,

Are very well cleaned and disinfected by washing them with an aqueous solution of
the acid. This deserves especial notice.
It is evident that numerous advantageous applications of salicylic acid are carried
out besides those enumerated above, but the descriptions already given will enable
any person interested in the matter to find out the best means of deriving profit
from the wonderful properties of this extremely useful substance.

Ice-House and Refrigerator.
BY JOHN TAYLOR.

Houses built on this plan are lined throughout the inside with sheet iron. There is a
layer of felt nailed to the sides, ceiling, and floor of the room, and on this is nailed
the sheet iron. It is then painted with two heavy coats, it being the aim to fill up all
joints and seams with the paint. But as the tin and felt do not render the room
absolutely air-tight, I am of opinion that it can as well be dispensed with. It might
save some ice if the seams were all soldered. The layer of cement, asphaltum or gas
tar, which should cover the ground below the joists, is to protect the room from the
moisture and warmth of the earth. Above this layer should be about 30 inches of
dry sawdust or turners shavings, well packed up to the level of the top of the joists.

The drainage from the ice is carried off by a series of V-shaped tin or iron troughs,
which run between the joists, all of which carry the water to one point, where it is
carried outside by a trap-pipe. These troughs reach over to the center of the top of
the joists, and are soldered together, so that no water will drip on the floor below. It
will be seen that in this plan there is no sawdust or other preservative in contact
with the ice, and that the air of the room circulates around and over the ice. As long
as the temperature of the goods stored is above the temperature of the room there
will be a gentle draught around the mass of ice, and of course all the moisture in the
air, vapors, and odors from the goods will condense on the ice and pass off, so that
you can keep milk, cream, butter, fruits, and meats all in the same chamber without
danger of injuring the flavor of either. The atmosphere of the room is always dry,
sweet, and pure.
The features of this plan can as well be carried out by arranging a room inside of
another building.
I should have explained before that the ice does not rest directly on the joists; but
1
there is a bed of oak lath, about 1 2 by 3 inches, laid across the joists, about 4 or 5
inches apart, on which the ice is laid. I would further suggest that another cold
chamber can as well be had by making a cellar under the one shown, with a lattice
floor between them. It would be necessary to finish the sides and bottom of this

cellar in the most complete manner, as above described. At the entrance to the
store-room there must be a vestibule, either inside or outside, as space or
circumstances may direct. If outside the walls should be thick and the door very
heavy. The doors, both inside and outside, should be fitted with rubber, so as to
close perfectly tight, and both doors must never be opened at the same time. This
vestibule should be large enough to contain a fair wagon load of goods, so that if
you are receiving a load of stuff you are not required to stop until all is in the
vestibule and ready to store. This house only needs filling once a year. The
temperature will range from 34 deg. in winter to 36 deg. in summer, and will
preserve fruit perfectly from season to season. The opening for putting in the ice,
shown just under the pulley in the cut, has two doors with a space between; each
door a foot thick. The window in the cold room has three sets of sash, well packed
or cemented. The walls are 13 inches thick, lined with 17 inches of sawdust. Thirty-
six inches of sawdust are put on the floor over the ice. The building shown is 25
feet square, inside measure, and 22 feet from floor of cold room to ceiling over the
ice. The ice-room is 12 feet high, and the cold room 9 feet. Pillars are required
under the center of the ice.—Country Gentleman.

Cheap Ice-Houses.
Settlers in the newer portions of the country are often deprived of many comforts
which are easily accessible in long-settled places. Whatever contributes to lessen
these privations, if at little cost, should merit special attention. A cheap ice-house
may be made to afford an important share of country comforts in such settlements.
There is nothing to prevent an abundant supply through the heat of summer where
there is a stream or sheet of water within two or three miles from which clear
blocks of ice may be sawed. Sawdust is the best material for packing, but in its
absence chaff, chopped straw, or even straw unchopped may be made to answer the
purpose.
A costly and elaborate building is no better
than the cheapest structure for keeping ice,
if care is only taken to have it properly
packed, which is very easily done after one
“knows how.” We have never seen ice
better preserved through a long and hot
summer than in a board shanty with only
one thickness of siding, and that full of

Fig. 1. cracks and crevices. For a new settle­ment
one built of logs, like that shown in the ac­‐
com­pany­ing figure (Fig. 1), may be made to answer a good purpose. The floor may
be slabs, and the roof a covering of brush to hold the packing to its place, if a slab
roof is not readily made. If sawdust is used for packing, the crevices between the
logs will need close stopping; or, still better, it can be faced on the inside with slabs
set upright, with the smooth side inward. If straw is employed, the rough logs may
remain, and the crevices between them may be left open. For sawdust a well-
packed space of 10 inches between walls and ice will keep the ice well; chopped
straw should be 15 or 20 inches thick, and long straw should occupy a space of 2
feet. Stiff, coarse straw will not answer unless packed very solid; finer and softer,
as of thickly sown oats, is better, and the walls which it forms need not be quite so
thick. Fine hay would be still better, and would answer if only a foot and a half
thick and well put in. Dry swamp moss, such as nurserymen use for packing trees
and plants, would be one of the very best substances for protecting the ice, if only a
foot thick.

Fig. 2.

Having prepared the house and packing cut the blocks of ice of precisely equal size,
using a cross-cut saw with one handle removed, to go under water. The size should
be measured and scratched on the surface for the saw to follow. Two feet square is a
convenient size. When cut lift them out with a light plank having a batten nailed
across one end to hold them (Fig. 2). Place about 10 inches of sawdust on the floor
(or twice as much solid straw), and build the structures solid with the ice blocks,
ramming in the sawdust or other packing as the structure goes up (Fig. 3). When
finished cover it with a thickness of packing nearly equal to that at the sides. It is
important that there be free ventilation over the top, which the loose brush will not
prevent. If there is a slab roof the air must blow freely between this roof and the top
covering. The slab floor will allow a free drainage of all the water which runs down
through the packing from the melting ice.

Fig. 3. Fig. 4.

A structure nearly as cheap as the preceding is
represented in Fig. 4. It is made by setting rough posts
into the ground with the inner sides straight or faced with
the ax, and then nailing common rough boards on them
(like a tight fence) to a sufficient height. The floor is
made as already described, and the roof may be boards
or slabs. The openings at the gables perform an
important part in the ventilation by admitting all the air
that can sweep over the top sawdust. Fig. 3, already
referred to, is the ground plan, and Fig. 5 is a vertical
Fig. 5.
section.
There are three requisites to be secured in order to keep
the ice successfully: 1st. The closely packed, non-​con­duct­ing substance on each
side, under and above the mass of ice. 2d. Perfect drainage at the bottom without
the admission of air. 3d. Free circulation of air over the top covering. If these
requisites are observed the result will be entirely satisfactory.—Country Gentlemen.

A Cheap Ice-Chest.
Procure two dry-goods boxes, one of which is enough smaller than the other to
leave a space of 3 or 4 inches all around when it is placed inside. Fill the space
between the two with sawdust packed closely and cover with a heavy lid made to
fit neatly inside the larger box. Insert a small pipe in the bottom of the chest to
carry off the water from the melting ice. For family or grocers’ use this will prove
even more serviceable than some of the high-priced patent refrigerators.

Ice Without an Ice-House.

Select a dry, shady spot; dig a ditch for carrying off the waste water, and over it
place a lath-work. Upon this lay a thick layer of moss, leaves, or sawdust. Now pile
upon this the cakes of ice, the larger the better, and cut or sawed square in such a
manner as to leave as few spaces as possible, filling up those which may occur with
fine sawdust in order to prevent the air from penetrating into the interior of the pile.
It is best to build the pile in the form of a pyramid. When completed it is covered
with straw, moss, or leaves as thick and as close as possible, a layer of earth being
thrown upon it to secure the covering and as a further protection to the ice. Where a
stream or lake is inaccessible from which to procure ice for filling ice-houses,
especially where a small quantity is stored, the ice can be frozen with water from
the well in boxes or other contrivance made especially for the purpose, which we
leave to the ingenuity of those who are interested.

Freezing Mixtures.
Refrigerating salts and mixtures are used to produce cold artificially. They are used
with or without ice or snow. As is well known common salt mixed with pounded
ice or snow lowers the temperature to a considerable degree, so there are other
mixtures which will produce a still greater degree of cold. The following simple
and cheap preparation, when mixed according to directions, will produce artificial
cold sufficient to cool wines, etc., without the aid of ice: Take common sal-
ammoniac, well pulverized, 1 part; saltpeter, 2 parts, and mix well together: then
take common soda, well pulverized. To use, take equal quantities of these
preparations (which must be kept separate and well covered previous to using) and
put them in the freezing pot; add of water a sufficient quantity, and put in the article
to be frozen in a proper vessel and cover up until cooled as desired.
These tables consist of mixtures having the power of generating or creating cold,
with or without the aid of ice, sufficient for all useful and philosophical purposes,
in any part of the world at any season:

FREEZING MIXTURES WITHOUT ICE.

Degree of
Thermometer
MIXTURES cold
Sinks.
Produced.

Muriate of ammonium 5 parts
Nitrate of potassium 5 parts From +50° to +10° 40
Water 16 parts

Muriate of ammonium 5 parts
Nitrate of potassium 5 parts
From +50° to +4° 46
Sulphate of sodium 8 parts
Water 16 parts

Nitrate of ammonium 1 part
From +50° to +4° 46
Water 1 part

Nitrate of ammonium 1 part
Carbonate of sodium 1 part From +50° to -7° 57
Water 1 part

Sulphate of sodium 3 parts
From +50° to -3° 53
Dilute nitric acid 2 parts

Sulphate of sodium 6 parts
Murate of ammonium 4 parts
From +50° to -10° 60
Nitrate of potassium 2 parts
Dilute nitric acid 4 parts

Sulphate of sodium 6 parts
Nitrate of ammonium 5 parts From +50° to -14° 64
Dilute nitric acid 4 parts

Phosphate of sodium 9 parts
From +50° to -12° 62
Dilute nitric acid 4 parts

Phosphate of sodium 9 parts
Nitrate of ammonium 6 parts From +50° to -21° 71
Dilute nitric acid 4 parts

Sulphate of sodium 8 parts
From +50° to 0° 50
Muriatic acid 5 parts

Sulphate of sodium 5 parts
From +50° to +3° 47
Dilute sulphuric acid 4 parts

FREEZING MIXTURES WITH ICE.

Degree of
Thermometer
MIXTURES cold
Sinks.
Produced.
Snow or pounded ice 2 parts F
to -5° ..
Muriate of sodium 1 part r
o
m
Snow or pounded ice 5 parts
Muriate of sodium 2 parts a to -12° ..
n
Muriate of ammonium 1 part y

t
Snow or pounded ice 24 parts e
Muriate of sodium 10 parts m
p to -18° ..
Muriate of ammonium 5 parts
e
Nitrate of potassium 5 parts r
a
t
Snow or pounded ice 12 parts u
Muriate of sodium 5 parts r to -25° ..
Nitrate of ammonium 5 parts e

Snow 3 parts
From +32° to -23° 55
Dilute sulphuric acid 2 parts

Snow 8 parts
From +32° to -27° 59
Muriatic acid 5 parts

Snow 7 parts
From +32° to -30° 62
Dilute nitric acid 4 parts

Snow 4 parts
From +32° to -40° 72
Muriate of calcium 5 parts

Snow 2 parts
From +32° to -50° 82
Crystallized muriate of calcium 3 parts

Snow 3 parts
From +32° to -51° 83
Potash 4 parts

COMBINATIONS OF FREEZING MIXTURES.

Degree of
Thermometer
MIXTURES cold
Sinks.
Produced.
Phosphate of sodium 5 parts
Nitrate of ammonium 3 parts From 0° to -34° 34
Dilute nitric acid 4 parts

Phosphate of sodium 3 parts
Nitrate of ammonium 2 parts From -34° to -50° 16
Dilute nitric acid 4 parts

Snow 3 parts
From 0° to -46° 46
Dilute nitric acid 2 parts

Constant Water Baths.
[American Chemical Journal.]

The following simple form of constant water bath, which wastes no water, I have
found to be very convenient:
1
A tube of glass or metal, not less than 4 of an inch internal diameter, the ends of
which are cut off obliquely, is bent as shown in the cut. It should make an angle of
about 30 deg., or a little greater, with the horizontal. The angle may be diminished
if the bore of the tube is increased. One end is inserted in the water bath, the other
in an inverted bottle. The height of the water in the bath is regulated by the depth of
immersion of the tube in it. The boiling is not interrupted by the feeding, which
takes place slowly and regularly. It is necessary that the ends of the tubes should be
cut off obliquely. The same form of tube answers equally well for keeping a
constant level in a filter or drying chamber.

A brass tube is much better than a glass one, as it does not crack at the water level
after using for a time. Brass tubes can easily be bent by ramming full of sand,
stopping the ends, and bending them over a curved surface. A large number of baths
can be run by this apparatus by connecting them with a bath fed by it.—Charles T.
Pomeroy.
Note.—We have used for a number of years in this laboratory a form of constant
water bath which was contrived by Mr. Edward Bogardus, formerly chemist to the
New Jersey State Geo­logical Survey. As I have not seen it described in print, and as
it is cheap, simple, efficient, and ingenious, I will draw attention to it here.
The following cut represents the apparatus:

It consists of two tomato cans connected by a tin tube. Into one of the cans a bottle
of water is inverted. We generally use a five-pound acid bottle. The other can
makes the bath. This bath can be left running over night without fear. A large

number of baths can be run by this contrivance by simply connecting them, by
means of rubber tubes, with a reservoir replenished by an inverted bottle. Old fruit
cans make excellent baths. A series of holes can be punched round the lower edge
of a fruit can, thus affording a distributing reservoir. Corks holding short pieces of
glass tube are inserted into the holes. By means of these the reservoir can be
connected by rubber tubes with a number of baths at quite a distance. The baths are
made by punching a hole near the lower edge of a fruit can and inserting a cork and
short piece of glass tube. When the extra vents of the reservoir are not used, they
can be closed by a short rubber coupling and a pinch cock.—Peter T. Austen,
Chemical Laboratory of Rutgers College (New Jersey State Scientific School).

Silos and Ensilage.
The practice of preserving roots, vegetables, and plants by covering them with
earth or by placing them in cellars, etc., is an ancient one, but the practical
application of the principle on a large scale to the preservation of fodder-corn,
clover, etc., as a food for stock is comparatively a recent practice, the first silo in
this country having been built within the last twelve years. Previously, however, the
French and English gave the subject considerable attention, but it seems that within
the last two or three years our American experimenters have made great
improvements in the process and construction of the silo by which more successful
results have been attained than ever before and have awakened much interest
among the progressive class of farmers and stock-growers throughout the country.
A number of the Agricultural Experiment Stations located in the different States,
particularly those of Wisconsin, Illinois, and also the Agricultural College at
Guelph, Ontario, have made extensive applications of the process. Several articles
from them detailing the success of the experiments for the past season have
appeared in the columns of The Breeder’s Gazette of this city. Through the courtesy
of the editor and Prof. W. A. Henry of the Wisconsin Agri­cultural Experiment
Station we are enabled to present full instructions in regard to con­structing and
filling a silo. These, with clippings which we include from the writings of others
high in authority on the subject, contain as full an account of recent experiments as
we can give with our limited space.
“Agriculture never took a longer stride in advance than it did when the silo was
added to the practical equipment of the farm. Most of us were slow to realize this at
first, and a great many are yet unwilling to concede the advantages claimed for the
silo, but the utility of the modern silo cannot be gainsaid, for without it we are left

at the mercy of the elements in the handling of our great corn crop. There was
much truth in the statement that the silo as first introduced was too expensive for
the average farmer, but in no department of the farm has there been such a change
of opinion and methods of attaining desired results as is the case with the silo. The
modern wooden building is not only less expensive but vastly superior to the
original cellar or stone structure and every year’s experience is throwing light in
hitherto dark places, so that in a short time the progressive dairyman or beef-raiser
will think no more of filling his silo than our fathers did of filling the barn with hay,
and with proper facilities for handling the corn no part of the silo work will be as
hard as pitching hay over the ‘big beam.’” * * * Supt. Adams, Wis. Agr. Exp.
Station.
* * * A silo is a place where fodder is preserved in a succulent condition. It may be
a pit, a box, a mow, a tank, a building, or a trench in the earth. Silage is the word
denoting the fodder so preserved. Ensilage is the term applied to the process or
system. Ensile is the verb expressive of the action of making silage. Ensilor stands
for the person using the silo to ensile fodder for silage by the process of ensilage.
—Prof. James W. Robertson, Ontario Agr. Col., Guelph.
* * * I further believe that our present knowledge of the silo and the best methods
of storing crops therein is not perfect, and that we will make great advancement in
the future; but that we have reached a point where this method is within the
possibilities of our average farmers, and it is this class most of all that needs this
method. The time has come when we must produce more beef, butter, wool, and
pork to the acre or sink beneath the wave of competition that is driving over our
land. The silo seems to be a valuable and important means to this end.—Prof. W. A.
Henry.
CONSTRUCTING THE SILO.—BY PROF. W. A. HENRY.

A 100-TON DOUBLE SILO.

“Silos are like houses, no two individuals can agree upon the same plan; for this
reason I approach this branch of the subject with no expectation of pleasing all or
of giving directions for making a perfect structure. I deem it best to give a
description of one way in which a double silo may be built and leave it to the reader
to introduce such modifications in the plan as may best meet his particular wants
and circumstances. The drawing herewith presented shows an ideal two-room silo
16 feet wide, 32 feet long, and 16 feet to the eaves. Built as described each room
would have a capacity of over 3,000 cubic feet which would contain about 50 tons
of settled ensilage weighing 35 pounds to the cubic foot. We may say then that this
figure represents a 100-ton silo. For the foundation of this structure either brick or
stone may be used, going deep enough to avoid heaving by the frost and rising 6
inches or 1 foot above the surface of the level ground about it. Upon this wall a sill
should be laid which had best be constructed of 2×10 inch plank. One of the
difficulties in silo construction is to avoid spreading of the building, which
sometimes occurs through lateral pressure of the contents when settling. For this
reason the sills must be well tied together at the corners; instead of using square
timbers, which are greatly weakened by cutting, plank may be substituted and the
corners of the sill constructed as in Fig. 2. If well spiked there will be no danger
from spreading at the corners. The plank of which the sills are constructed should
be at least 8 inches wide; 10 would be better. By using four of these, lying one on
top of another, the sill will be 8 inches thick. Midway between the ends of the
building a cross wall should be built, and on this a sill should be laid upon which to
erect the partition which divides the silo into two compartments. This cross wall

should be so worked into the side walls as to hold them securely, and thus prevent
the silo from spreading on the sides. A little ingenuity will make the foundation and
sills secure. If possible the sills should be as wide as the wall upon which it rests,
but if this cannot be conveniently done the wall of stone or brick should be raised
above the ground but a very few inches at most, as the ensilage in settling on the
shoulder made by the jutting wall is almost certain to spoil at that point. Having
laid the sill upon the wall in the manner described proceed to erect the building by
standing 2×8 or 10-inch studding perpendicularly upon this sill, placing them not
further apart than every 16 inches, so that a sheet of tarred building paper will lap
two studding in each case. The reader is cautioned to measure the building paper
carefully, before setting up the studding, as it is sometimes scant in width and
trouble will occur when one attempts to tack on the paper. Double the studding at
the corners. In the illustration of the building I have not placed the proper number
of studding, but the reader can rest assured that once in 16 inches is not too often.
Having placed our studding in position and secured them by a plate running around
the top we are ready for the rafters. Fig. 3 shows how these rest upon the plates and
how they are tied together so as to least interfere with the filling of the silo. For a
cheap silo boards may be used, though probably shingles are the cheapest in the
end. In the roof upon one side place a dormer window at D in the illustration; this
window is immediately over the partition. It is intended that the ensilage carrier
shall pass up through the window so that the ensilage will fall over the partition and
can be deposited in either one of the two compartments by means of a slanting
chute. If one does not wish to undergo the expense of the dormer window a scuttle
in the roof is all that is necessary. The roof is the same as for any building.

fig. 1.

fig. 2.

fig. 3.

“We are now ready to sheathe the silo; let us begin on the inside. First of all tack
tarred building paper to the studding, running the strips up and down and having
them catch on every third studding. Avoid all openings or rents in the paper. Having
placed the paper take common boards dressed on one side and sheet up to the top of
the studding. When this is completed repeat the operation by placing a second layer
of boards over the first, breaking joints. Narrow boards are preferable to wide ones
for this work, as they will swell without bulging. We have double-boarded the
inside of our silo by this operation, and rendered it practically impervious to the air.
I see no reason for using anything but common lumber for this purpose, as upon
swelling it will close up tight enough to keep out the air. Upon the outside of the
studding tack building paper again, as shown at Fig. C in the first illustration. Over
this paper place any kind of boards that the fancy of the builder may dictate, as
clapboards, shiplap, or drop-siding. It will be seen that our walls are constructed as
follows, beginning at the outside: First, siding; second, building paper; third, a
dead-air space of 8 or 10 inches; fourth, building paper; fifth, common boards;
sixth, common boards. No sawdust, tanbark, or other filling should be used, as a
dead-air space is a better non-conductor for our purpose and less expensive than
any of these. The partition can be built of narrower studding than those used on the
sides of the building, and one thickness of boards used on each side, together with
building paper, as in the first instance, is sufficient. To prevent lateral pressure
bulging the silo two iron rods should be run through the partition walls joining the
sides of the building, placing one about two feet above the partition sill and the
other about four feet above that. Half or three-fourths-inch rods with heavy caps at
the ends should be sufficient, and are easily put in place before the boards are
tacked to the partition.
“Two doorways should be left by cutting out a single studding in each compartment
upon the most convenient side. These doorways reach to within three feet of the

ground, and should be about seven feet in height. They need not reach to within
five feet of the top of the building. The ensilage will settle in the silo several feet,
and when the time comes to pass it out through the doorway it takes but little time
to dig down two or three feet to the top of the door and make an opening large
enough to pass out the upper layer. Fig. 1 shows one of the ways in which a
doorway may be made so that it can be boarded up air-tight. Instead of making
solid doors hung on hinges I think it is better to use boards that will fit in
crossways, making them double thick, and having the inside board even with the
inside boarding of the silo, as shown in Fig. 1. Do not make the doorways over 6 or
7 feet in length vertically, as in all cases they weaken the structure. Endeavor to
have the inside of the silo smooth and perpendicular from top to bottom, with no
jogs or shoulders upon which the ensilage can catch or drag.
“If built above ground fill the rooms of the two compartments with earth until the
surface is three or four inches above the outside level, so that no water will at any
time enter to injure the ensilage that rests on the ground. I do not yet know which is
the best method of preserving the silo from decaying. This is an important branch
of the topic, but it has thus far received little attention. Some have recommended
using kerosene for an inside coating. We shall try that this season, and also gas or
roofing tar, which I think will be excellent. This roofing tar when heated becomes
liquid, and can be applied with a mop to the inside of the silo. As soon as it cools it
hardens into an impervious glossy layer that I should think eminently adapted to
this purpose.
“Having no ceiling or floor, and being built of common material, there is no
necessity for the silo being an expensive structure. Of course the reader will modify
the description given to suit his own wants and circumstances, but I can assure him
that in some such way he can provide a silo at no great expense.
“After the structures built for the special purpose comes the modification of
building already erected. A great many farmers are building over bays in their barns
for silos. This is easily accomplished by placing studding all around the bay and
double boarding on the inside. If one fears cold weather he can make a dead-air
space by using two sets of studding and boarding on the inside of the bay. Stone
buildings can be converted into good silos by furring out and double boarding on
the inside. In general I am adverse to stone structures for this purpose unless thus
boarded. Some kinds of stone seem to do very well, but stone walls carry off the
heat and moisture too rapidly to make good silo walls. If one wishes to try
preserving corn-fodder and cannot afford a structure of wood, he can excavate a pit

in the earth and bury the corn-fodder therein, though I am sure he will soon give up
this practice as unduly expensive.
“A word in regard to the location of the silo. It may be built adjoining the feeding
barn with the doors so placed that the ensilage be conveyed directly to the cattle, or
if that is not possible, place it where the ensilage can be conveyed by a car or cart.
Mr. Hiram Smith of this State, who has large silos and uses ensilage extensively,
holds that it is not inconvenient to have the silo located a few rods from the feeding
barn. The ensilage is pitched into a cart with forks and the cart driven into the
feeding barn between the two rows of cows which stand facing each other. The
ensilage is placed in front of the animals directly from the cart with great rapidity.
In some cases a car can be used which can be run down grade into the barn in front
of the cattle. I think either of these methods is preferable to attempting to carry
ensilage in baskets any distance.
FILLING THE SILO.
“Probably very few stone silos will be built in the future, for experience shows that
a stone wall chills the ensilage during the curing process and if it does not seriously
injure that portion next to it to a thickness of several inches it renders it at least less
palatable than ensilage nearer the middle of the silo. One reason, in my judgment,
that the silo has not won more friends in the Eastern States is owing to the common
use of stone in its construction. On our experimental farm at Madison our first silo,
built in 1881, was of stone, and our conclusions in regard to ensilage were made up
from results obtained with this silo; had we put up a wooden structure I am
confident our results would have been worth vastly more to our people than they
have been.
“The question of stacking ensilage is sometimes raised, being urged upon our
people by the practice of our English friends, who are experimenting quite largely
in this direction. It will be no more profitable to stack ensilage in the Northern
States than to stack hay, and even less so in my judgment, for the waste would be
very considerable and no one would relish the job of handling it during bad
weather. Silos built of wood or made by changing over the bays of barns are the
proper structures, judging from our present knowledge, for the Northern States; our
friends at the South may find stacking successful.
“Having constructed the silo somewhat after the one described, though, be it
remembered, large latitude is allowed in this matter, we will proceed to fill it with
one of the two crops most suitable for the purposes; clover or fodder-corn. If clover

is to be used I would recommend that a hay-loader be tried for the purpose of
picking it up just as left by the mower. I have hopes that some form of hay-loader
will do this work satisfactorily. The clover, either fresh or partly wilted, in any
degree of dryness indeed, may be carried at once and unloaded into the silo, care
being taken to fill and tramp down the corners and along the edges so that when all
has thoroughly settled there will be no air spaces to favor decay. To fill a silo with
clover is indeed a most simple process. By having two divisions the pits can be
filled alternately, each layer of material heating up to the required temperature
before the next is placed over it.
“For fodder-corn the processes are a little more complex, though in reality very
simple. The fodder-corn should be allowed to approach maturity, the best point for
cutting being not far from that at which we would ordinarily cut any shock. By this
I do not mean to allow the leaves to become dry and crisp, but rather that they show
a change from deep rank green to that yellowish tinge indicative of maturity,
though with still an abundance of moisture in them. Formerly ensilage corn was cut
shortly after the tassel appeared. Without doubt very considerable loss was incurred
by such a practice.
“It is evident that if we cut our fodder at the time the corn is glazing our practice is
as near correct as the present stage of investigation points out. Since the period of
filling the silo will occupy several days, or even a couple of weeks, we must gauge
the date of commencement to strike the best average conditions. For cutting the
fodder some parties recommend the use of the reaper, but I judge from what I have
been told that a good many rakes have been broken in attempting the work, and that
many have given them up and gone back to the use of the corn knife. Such must be
the case usually, at least where large varieties of corn are grown. The stalks should
be cut close to the ground and thrown into bundles or gavels. If the weather is at all
threatening I think it proper to cut and shock, since the fodder will dry off much
more rapidly if rain falls, and it will not be so muddy and disagreeable to handle as
when laid on the ground.
“Last season the writer urged that the fodder be wilted before it was put into the
silo, and his own experience, with that of many others, corroborates this method of
procedure, which has the additional advantage that less water is handled in the
operation. If it is intended to allow the fodder to wilt the corn had better be cut and
shocked, after which it may stand from three to ten days, depending upon the
maturity of the stalks at time of cutting and the weather. If the fodder dries out
rapidly, from four days to a week is amply long for it to stand in shock, while if the

weather is somewhat damp or the fodder quite green it may even stand ten days
with no loss. One of the advantages of cutting and shocking is that when it is over
the force of men employed in this operation can be changed to filling the silo. If the
corn is cut and placed in the silo at once quite a force of hands is needed, but by
cutting and shocking first we can avoid this double force.
“For drawing to the silo truck wagons are better than ordinary ones, since the
fodder is more easily loaded upon them. The common practice is to attach a plank
to the rear of the wagon, up which the men can walk with their arms full of fodder,
which should be placed with tops all one way for ease in unloading. If the fodder is
to be put through the feed-cutter the cutter should be placed so that the carrier will
deposit it in either of the two pits as required. Formerly the carriers were so
constructed that they would not work ad­van­tageously at a much greater angle than
45 deg., but now I note that some manufacturers have them arranged to carry
almost vertically.
“In regard to the kind of feed-cutter to be used, it may be said that there are several
valuable machines before the public, any one of which will prove satisfactory if
properly managed. The only point I desire to urge is that a large machine be
purchased, one having about double the advertised capacity. Small cutters are a
nuisance; hand-power cutters are out of the question. The cutter should be driven
by three horses on a sweep power or two on a tread, or by a steam engine. Many
farmers delay ordering the cutter until within a week or two of the time to fill the
silo and are obliged to wait weeks until it is received, thereby suffering great
inconvenience and loss. As soon as the question is settled in favor of having a silo a
cutter should be selected and ordered, and it should be set up and run in a test trial
not less than a week before actual filling is contemplated, so that repairs or changes
can be made. To run a feed-cutter properly requires considerable experience and
some knowledge of machinery, and many persons have suffered serious losses by
not giving this side of the subject due attention.
“This brings me to a point in the discussion of considerable interest to many
persons who desire to have silos but dread the experience and expense of
machinery. Corn-fodder may be preserved in a perfectly satisfactory manner
without running it through the feed-cutter, and may be drawn from the field and
deposited directly in the silo. The expense of putting corn-fodder through the feed-
cutter, first and last, is not far from half of all that incurred from the time of cutting
the fodder to closing the silo. To fill the silo with long fodder let it be drawn in the
usual manner and lifted at once into the pit, which can be accomplished in several

ways, either by hand or the horse hay-fork carrier and slings. In the silo it should be
distributed evenly and probably had better be placed in regular layers, lapping
“shingle fashion” so that it will settle evenly.
“The use of long fodder for the silo has been urged with considerable vigor by Mr.
I. J. Clapp of Kenosha, Wis., one of The Breeder’s Gazette’s correspondents, and I
think much good has resulted from his advocacy. There is no doubt but that long
fodder will keep just as well as that which is cut up, and I am not at all certain but
such ensilage is even better in some cases than that made by cutting up the stalks
into small pieces. When cut into small pieces the fodder is considerably bruised,
and there is much more exposure of the juices to the air than there is where whole
fodder is used. My attention was called to this point by a recent letter from Mr.
Clapp, and I hope we can make some observations on the subject in the future. At
any rate let those parties who either from choice or necessity do not wish to use the
feed-cutter hesitate no longer in regard to the silo if they wish to try it, but go ahead
and place the whole fodder in one, and I am confident they will not be disappointed
in its feeding qualities. The only difficulty with long fodder comes at the time it is
to be taken out for feeding purposes; then if large varieties have been used the man
who attempts to get it out of the silo will need strong muscles and a large degree of
patience to enable him to tug at the compact mass, which is quite difficult to
manage. Twenty-five cows will eat up the ensilage about as fast as one man can get
it out. It may be just as economical, however, to put two men into the silo for an
hour or two each day during the winter, when labor is cheap, to get out the ensilage
as it is to use more expensive labor in the fall to accomplish the extra work of
running the feed-cutter.
“Slow filling is without doubt the best method for securing good ensilage, no
matter what material we are using, be it clover, long fodder-corn, or fodder cut fine.
When the pit has been filled three or four feet deep no more should be placed
within it until this layer has heated to the neighborhood of 125 deg. Fahrenheit. Mr.
John Gould of Ohio, who has been a deep student of this subject from the practical
side, I believe holds that the ensilage should be allowed to pile up as it falls from
the carrier, and after the pile has heated to the right temperature it should be
distributed evenly over the silo, throwing that which is hottest to the corners and
along the walls. It is certain that ensilage usually heats up easily and rapidly except
in the corners and along the walls, where we find the temperature does not rise so
rapidly nor to the same degree as it does in the body of the silo, and anything that
will help us overcome this lack will improve its quality, and I deem Mr. Gould’s
suggestion a valuable one. No packing down is needed except in the corners and

along the walls; at these points we endeavor to firm the ensilage just as much as
possible. I wish we could avoid this operation, and in the future we may do so. I
believe the ensilage would be better without any tramping and packing if we could
only get it to settle uniformly without. We should endeavor to secure an elevation
in temperature of from 120 to 140 deg. uniformly throughout the mass of material.
If the contents of the silo heat up to different degrees in different places we cannot
expect them to be uniform in quality, though all will be eaten by the stock. The
theory advanced by Mr. Fry of England that a temperature of 122 deg. Fahrenheit
destroyed the ferment that produced the temperature seems hardly correct, for we
find that the temperature goes on beyond this very rapidly—indeed, it is often very
difficult to hold it below 140 or 150 deg., while in other cases I have known silos in
which I could detect no faulty handling of the crop that would not heat to 120 deg.
A case in point occurred last season; while we were busy filling our silos at the
experimental farm I was called to the telephone by a young farmer living some
thirty miles away who asked several questions about temperatures. I answered him
to the best of my ability and the matter dropped from my mind. A couple of hours
afterward, however, the party himself appeared on the scene in a troubled state of
mind; he said he feared that he could not make his case plain through the telephone,
and so had come on the first train to consult personally. His ensilage would not heat
up to 120 deg., but was moulding badly instead. I advised that he go on filling the
silo, ignoring the temperature question entirely. He did so, and in the winter
reported satisfactory results. In my opinion we have much to learn in regard to this
ferment, and that very close, patient study will be required to bring out the
scientific side in a satisfactory manner. Fortunately we do not have to be very
particular in our practice to obtain a very good quality of ensilage. I would advise,
therefore, that a person allow the temperature to run from 120 to 140 when the
thermometer is buried a foot deep in the fodder; but when these conditions are not
obtained, no matter whether the degree be lower or higher, to go right on without
feeling anxious in the matter. If the contents of the silo do not heat at all, or if the
temperature gets up to 160 deg., the cattle will still eat the ensilage without
complaint and relish it better than average dry fodder. I speak pretty positively
upon this point because novices find it difficult to get over it and become quite
excited and nervous if they cannot attain the exact directions given by most writers
on this subject. The best rule is to go ahead, do the best one can, and the cattle will
be very well satisfied with the result. Remember that the experience of a single
individual or a single season may be no criterion for other cases. The reasons for
these great variations are not yet apparent.

“Silo filling may go on for two or three weeks, or until the pits are filled, when they
should be covered after standing a day or two to allow the last layer to heat. For
covering material there may be placed over the ensilage building paper upon which
may be placed sand, earth, chaff, cut straw, marsh hay, long straw, sawdust, or
almost any material which will help keep out the air. If one wishes the pits may be
left uncovered, in which case something like a foot of the ensilage will decay and
form a covering and protection for that beneath. The practice of weighting the silo
is now largely abandoned, though I am not certain but what some heavy material
along the edges and in the corners will aid in saving the ensilage at those points,
since it is here that the contents do not settle so well as does the body of the
material. For a few weeks after filling the sides and corners should be tramped
down occasionally to aid them in settling.”
PLANTING, CUTTING, FEEDING, ETC.
The following extracts from “Bulletin No. 2,” Illinois Agricultural Experiment
Station, by Thomas F. Hunt, answers some important questions in regard to
planting, etc.:
“The filling of the silo was practically continuous, and was done in three days, Aug.
20 to 22, 1887, with 54,525 lbs.—twenty-seven and a quarter tons—of green corn.
About twenty tons of this consisted of a medium sized, fairly early yellow dent
corn (Murdock), which had been planted May 4 to 6, in rows 3 feet 9 inches apart,
with two to three kernels dropped every 9 to 12 inches in each row. At the time of
cutting the stalks had well-formed but small ears, the kernels of which had largely
passed the milk state; that is, the kernels were mostly glazed. The lower leaves
were yellowish, and some had begun to dry. The growth, though not large, was
thought satisfactory, considering the long-continued and severe drouth that had
prevailed here. The yield was not more than seven tons of fresh fodder per acre.
Seven tons consisted of a large, late maturing yellow dent corn (Leaming), which
had been planted May 28, 1887. The kernels were in the milk and the leaves were
entirely green. No marked difference was noted between the ensilage from this and
that from the other corn. * * *
“Feeding the ensilage was begun March 10, 1888, by mixing it with twice its bulk
of dry, cut corn-fodder, not corn-stover, which our stock had been chiefly fed
during the winter. The cattle soon learned to like the ensilage, and after the first
week it was fed without mixing with any other substance and was eaten rather
better, on the whole, than corn-fodder had been previously.

“Dairy weights of ensilage fed to the stock were not taken. From what weighing
was done it is estimated that from March 17 to April 30 700 lbs. on an average
were fed daily. During this time the following cattle were given ensilage: March 17
to April 30 two aged and five yearling bulls, one heifer, and one dry cow were fed
ensilage, hay, and grain; eight milch cows, ensilage, straw, and grain; ten dry cows
and five heifers, ensilage and straw. March 17 to April 16, three steers were fed
ensilage and corn. April 13 to 30, four heifers and two dry cows were fed ensilage
and hay. It will thus be seen that for 45 days 37 head were, on an average fed 700
lbs., about 19 each, daily. Of these 15 had ensilage and straw only; 8 had ensilage
and straw with grain, usually four quarts of bran added daily; and 9 ensilage, hay,
and grain. All thrived exceedingly well considering the amount of food eaten.”
For information as to the results of future experiments with ensilage we refer the
reader to the various State Agricultural Experiment Stations and the authorities here
quoted.

PART II.—STAGE ILLUSIONS.

The Three-Headed Woman.
In the booths of the market fairs at Paris and its suburbs (for example, at the
“Gingerbread” Fair, at the Féte of St. Cloud, etc.), and in the tricks of jugglers, etc.,
who operate in the street, café concerts, or circuses, we find phenomena that have a
true scientific interest, ingenious applications of different sciences, or simply tricks
that puzzle the spectator. Since, in general, people like to know the secret of what
has surprised them, it may not prove uninteresting to devote a few articles to what
may be called “side-show science.” We will first speak of the process employed to
produce the “three-headed woman.”

The exterior of the little booth in which this phenomenon is exhibited is covered by
a large painted canvas representing a three-headed woman in evening costume in a
richly decorated drawing-room along with a few persons. For better convincing the
curious a photograph taken from nature exhibits the phenomenal woman as she
appears in the show; and every now and then the showman stops his drum to cry,
“She is living, ladies and gentlemen, she is living!” If we allow ourselves to be

persuaded to enter the booth we shall find ourselves separated from the stage by a
balustrade—a sort of screen, behind which is the curtain. In a few moments the
latter separates and there is distinctly seen a woman’s body, the lower part of which
is hidden by a basket of flowers. This body has three heads; one in the middle and
two others grafted at the base of the neck of the first. These three heads move their
eyes, answer together a few questions put by the showman, stick out their tongues,
sing a few snatches of a popular song, and finally salute the audience, when the
curtain closes and the show is over.
On almost every occasion some ingenious person is heard to express pity for this
unfortunate person, who has no legs and three heads. This is the best praise that
could be bestowed on the trick—for naturally it is only a trick. Moreover the
showman is ready, for money, to explain how it is done. If we allow ourselves to be
tempted, and enter the side-scene, we perceive on the little stage where the
phenomenal woman just appeared nothing but a large plate of glass, slightly
inclined toward the audience, and its edges hidden by drapery. Behind the mirror
there is a recess whose sides are covered with a dead-black fabric. In front of the
mirror, on the stage, sits the basket of flowers from which issued the woman’s
body. Then on an inclined board a little above the ground lie three young girls. One
of these, the middle one, is clothed in a brilliant costume of silk of a light color, and
it is she who, in the exhibition, makes the trunk, arms, and the middle head. Her
legs are covered over with a black fabric, and she is supported by a cushion so as to
permit the two other girls to place their necks closely against hers. The bodies of
these two girls at the sides are completely covered with a fabric of a dead-black
color. In front of these three young women are placed a dozen strong kerosene
lamps provided with reflectors.
The heads, hair, and arms of the “body” are covered with powder, so as to present
completely white surfaces. Such is the secret as revealed from the side-scene, and it
will now be understood how the phenomenon is produced. All the white or light-
colored surfaces being strongly lighted by the lamps that reflect the light, their
image is sent by the glass toward the spectators, who perceive then the body of the
female, her two arms, and her three heads. All the portions covered with black are,
on the contrary, absolutely invisible in the glass, and the spectators cannot see that
they exist. The phenomenon is, on the whole, a curious application of the effects of
reflection which were in fashion some twenty years ago under the name of “living
ghosts,” and by means of which it was possible in theaters to cause the apparition,
alongside of living persons, either of undecided forms or of bodies not resting on
the ground.

The “Gingerbread” Fair this year showed a two-headed woman produced by a
slightly different process, the body and head of the woman being seen directly, and
the second head alone being seen by reflection from a glass. This phenomenon may
be varied to infinity, so to speak. To cite only a few examples, there may be
produced by the same process a decapitated person who talks; a decapitated person
who holds his head in his hand, and a Judith and Holofernes, the head of the latter
being held by the hair by the former.—La Nature.

The Mysterious Voice.
“Some time ago,” says a correspondent of La Nature, “I was walking around in a
side show in which were exhibited mechanical portraits, when I was surprised to
hear myself called: ‘Monsieur! Monsieur!’ * * * I discovered that the voice came
from a tin trumpet, which was held in the mouth of a negro’s head made of wood,
and suspended by a small brass chain from semicircles of iron supported by a
wooden frame” (Fig. 1). The effect produced on the spectators by this speaking
head was one of universal astonishment, and no one was capable of solving the
mystery. The arrangement for producing the illusion is very simple, however, and is
thus explained by the writer above referred to:

fig. 1.—the speaking head.

A person hidden behind the scenes speaks into a tube two or three centimeters in
diameter which runs from that point to the wooden frame, and in the interior of the
horizontal and upright pieces of which it passes till it reaches the suspended head at
A, as shown by the dotted lines, E, D, C, B, A. The voice thus transmitted is
reflected from the sides of the trumpet, H, to the person holding a conversation
with the head.

fig. 2.—the speaking glass case.

This experiment, which is analogous to the one that precedes, was explained by
Nicholson, in 1832, in his Journal de Physique. Although at first offered as a
physical experiment, under the title of an “experiment in acoustics,” it has since
changed name and master, and is now dignified by the imposing name of “invisible
girl.”

fig. 3.—the invisible girl experiment.

Fig. 2 shows the arrangement of the original apparatus, which consisted of a glass
case, X, about four feet long by about one in height, suspended from the ceiling by
four chains at a distance of a foot from the window frame. From the extremity of
the case projected a speaking trumpet, and the entire apparatus was surrounded by a
latticework of iron wire to prevent its being touched by the hands of the curious.
The phenomenon, although a puzzling novelty at the time, did not attract much of a
crowd, as it was not managed with sufficient address, and the surroundings were
not of a nature to please fashionable people. This apparatus was improved upon and
rendered more elegant in appearance by Prof. Robertson. Fig. 3, copied from an old
engraving, shows this latter arrangement. A globe, A, made of glass or enameled
sheet iron, and to which are attached four trumpets, is suspended from the middle

of the room. This globe is not necessary for the experiment, but is only an
accessory to impose upon the imagination. Around it is placed a framework, B,
which is very necessary, for it is hollow, and it is through it that the voice of the
invisible person is heard. A tin tube passes through the upright C and then runs to
D, where there is a small slit or aperture opposite the trumpet. This tin tube passes
under the floor of the room, and runs into the neighboring room, whence the
pretended invisible person speaks, and sees everything through the keyhole or
through an aperture in the wall. This is all there is of the mystery.

An Improved Psycho.
Let me explain to those who have not seen “Psycho” that it consists of a small
figure dressed as a Turk, sitting cross-legged (as shown by dotted lines) on a chest;
this chest is in turn supported on a glass tube, about 12 in. in diameter and 3 ft.
long, which rests on a four-legged stool. The bottom of chest and top of stool are
covered with green cloth, so as to make a tolerably air-tight joint. The right arm is
extended as per drawing, and a semicircular rack, in which are placed the 13 cards
dealt to “Psycho,” is fixed by means of a bracket (not shown) in such a position that
the edges come between the finger and thumb, as shown at *. The arm turning
horizontally on the pivot A, the hand can be brought over any card, and by closing
the finger and thumb and raising the arm the card will be withdrawn from the rack
and held in the air.

FIG. 1. a.

In Figs. 1a and 1b (elevation and plan) the wheels E
and M have each a train of clockwork (left out for the
sake of clearness), which would cause them to spin
round if unchecked. M, however, has two pins, p p′,
which catch on a projection on the lever, N. E is a
FIG. 1. b. crown-wheel escapement—like that in a bottle
roasting-jack—which turns A alternately to the left
and right, thus causing the hand to traverse the 13 cards. A little higher on A will be
seen a quadrant B (see plan) near the edge of which are set 13 little pins. The end of
the lever N drops between any two of them, thus causing the hand to stop at any
desired card. The lever being pivoted at c it is obvious that by pressing the end, N,
B will be set at liberty, and the hand will move along the cards; by slightly raising it
this motion will be arrested; by raising it still more the pin p is released and M

commences to revolve, and by again depressing N this wheel will in its turn be
stopped. Near the bottom of the apparatus is a bellows O, which contains a spring
tending to keep the lever N, with which it is connected by a rod X, in the position
shown. This is connected with the tubular support, which may be connected by a
tube through the leg of the stool, and another tube beneath the stage, with an
assistant behind the scenes. By compressing or exhausting air through this tube it is
obvious that the lever, N, will be raised or depressed, and the clockwork set going
accordingly. a is a crankpin set in M, and connected with the head by catgut, T, and
with the thumb by S.
At R and R′ are two pulleys connected by gut. Thus if the hand moves round the
head appears to follow its motions, and when raised by pulling S the head rises also
by means of T. Further explanation seems almost unnecessary; l is a stop to prevent
the elbow moving too far, and b b′ spiral springs to keep thumb open and head
forward respectively. When N is raised M pulls T and S, the latter closing thumb,
and then raising arm by pulley H. If the lever is allowed to drop p′ will catch and
keep arm up. On again raising N the arm will descend.

FIG. 2. a.

Figs. 2a and 2b show another and simpler arrangement, in
which only one train of clockwork is used. On the same axle
as H is fixed a lever and weight, W, to balance the arm. A
vertical rod, X, having a projection, Z, slides up and down in
guides, Y Y, and carries the catgut S and T. The quadrant, B,
has cogs cut, between which Z slides and stops the motion of
FIG. 2. b. A, which is moved, as before, by clockwork. The lower part
of X is connected direct with O. When X is slightly raised,

as shown, A is free to move, but on exhausting air and drawing X down Z enters the
cogs and stops the hand over a card; continuing to exhaust the thumb closes and the
card is lifted up. The details of the clockwork I leave to the ingenuity of your
readers. There should be a fan on each train to regulate the speed. The figure should
be so placed that your assistant can see the cards in the semicircular rack.—English
Mechanic.

Magic Cabinets, Boxes, Etc.
Magic cabinets are much employed by magicians. The following is an example of
one of the scenes that may occur with them:
When the curtain rises there is seen in the center of the stage a large dark colored
cabinet, ornamented with mouldings, and mounted upon legs that are a little longer
than those of ordinary cabinets, the object being to remove all possibility of a
communication with the stage beneath. These legs are provided with casters. The
showman turns this cabinet around and shows that there is nothing abnormal about
it externally. He then asks some of the spectators to come up close to it, and lets
them examine its interior, which is entirely empty. There is no double bottom, nor
any hiding place. When the witnesses have made themselves certain of this fact
they station themselves around the stage, and a certain number of them even
consent to remain behind the cabinet and see nothing of the experiment. The
cabinet being thus surrounded on all sides, and even one being able to look under it,
fraud would seem to be an impossibility.

fig. 1.

A young woman dressed as a danseuse then comes onto the stage and enters the
cabinet (Fig. 1), and the doors are closed upon her. In a few moments the doors
are opened again, when, lo and behold! the closet is empty, the young woman
having disappeared. Then the doors are closed again, and then opened, and the
danseuse makes her appearance; and so on. At the end of the experiment the
witnesses examine the cabinet again, and, finding nothing changed therein, are
justly stupefied.
In another style of cabinet there is no bar in the center, as shown in Fig. 1, but
there is observed on one of the sides in the interior a bracket a few centimeters in
length, and back and above this a shelf. This arrangement permits of performing
a few experiments more than does the one just described. Thus, when the woman
has disappeared the showman allows a young man to enter, and he also
disappears, while the young woman is found in his place. This is a very
surprising substitution.
The box into which the harlequin takes refuge, and which appears to be empty
when Pierrot or Cassandra lifts the curtain that shields its entrance, is also a sort
of magic cabinet.
In a series of lectures delivered a few years ago at the London Polytechnic
Institution, a professor of physics unmasked the secret of some of the tricks
employed on the stage for producing illusions, and notably that of the magic
cabinet. The lecturer, after showing the cabinet and causing the disappearance

therein of an individual while the doors were closed, repeated the same
experiment with the latter open. But in the latter case so quick was the
disappearance that the spectators could not even then see how it was done.
The illusion produced by these apparatus is
the result of a play of mirrors.
In the first cabinet described (Fig. 1), when
the exhibitor has closed the doors upon the
young woman, the latter pulls toward her
two mirrors that are represented in Fig. 2 by
the lines G G. These mirrors are hinged at O
O, and when swung outward rest by their
fig. 2.—plan explanatory of the cabinet.
external edges against the bar P, and then
occupy the position shown by the dotted
lines G′ G′. When the cabinet is again opened the woman, placed at A, is hidden
by the two mirrors; but the appearance of the interior of the cabinet is not
changed, since the spectators see the image of each side reflected from the
corresponding mirror, and this looks to them like the back of the cabinet.
The illusion is perfect. When the experiment is ended and the mirrors are again
swung against the sides, at G G, the spectators see nothing but the backs of
them, which are covered with wood; the cabinet is really empty, and no one can
discover what modification has taken place in its interior during the
disappearance of the woman.
In the second arrangement, which is shown in vertical section in
Fig. 3, the young man gets up onto the shelf c n, at the upper part
of the cabinet, by the aid of the bracket T, and then pulls down
over him the mirror b c, which was fastened to the top of the
cabinet. This mirror being inclined at an angle of 45 deg. reflects
the top, and the spectators imagine that they see the back of the
cabinet over the shelf just as they did before.
The box which the harlequin enters is based upon precisely the
same principle. Its interior is hung with paper banded alternately
fig. 3.—section blue and white. When the harlequin enters it he places himself in
explanatory of one of the angles and pulls toward him two mirrors which hide
the cabinet.
him completely, and which reflect the opposite side of the box,

so that the spectator is led to believe that he sees the back of it. In this case one
of the angles at the back of the box is not apparent, but the colored stripes
prevent the spectator from noticing the fact.

The Magic Portfolio.
This is an apparatus which an itinerant physicist might have been seen a few
years ago exhibiting in the squares and at street corners. His method was to have
a spectator draw a card, which he then placed between the four sheets of paper
which, folded crosswise, formed the flaps of his portfolio. When he opened the
latter again a few instants afterward the card had disappeared, or rather had
become transformed. Profiting then by the surprise of his spectators the
showman began to offer them his magic portfolio at the price of five sous for the
small size and ten for the large.
The portfolio was made of two square pieces of cardboard connected by four
strings, these latter being fixed in such a way that when the two pieces of
cardboard were open and juxtaposed the external edge of each of them was
connected with the inner edge of the other.
This constituted, after a manner, a double hinge that permitted of the portfolio
being opened from both sides. To one pair of strings there were glued, back to
back, two sheets of paper, which, when folded over, formed the flaps of the
portfolio. It was only necessary, then, to open the latter in one direction or the
other to render it impossible to open more than one of the two sets of flaps.
This device is one that permits of a large number of tricks being performed,
since every object put under one of the sets of flaps will apparently disappear or
be converted into something else, at the will of the prestidigitator (Fig. 4).

Magic Envelopes.
This trick is a simplification of the foregoing. The affair consists of several
sheets of paper of different colors folded over, one upon the other. A card
inclosed within the middle envelope, over which have been folded all the others,
is found to have disappeared when the flaps are opened again. The secret of the
trick is very simple. One of the inner sheets of paper—the second one, usually—
is double, and, when folded, forms two envelopes that are back to back. It is only
necessary then to open one or the other of these latter to cause the appearance or

disappearance or transformation of such objects as have been inclosed within it.
(Fig. 4.)

fig. 4.—magic portfolio, envelopes, and boxes.

Magic Boxes.
Magic boxes are of several styles, according to the size of the objects that one
desires to make disappear.
There is no one who has not seen a magician put one or more pigeons into the
drawer of one of these boxes, and after closing it open it to find that the birds
have disappeared. Such boxes contain, as shown in Fig. 4, two drawers, which,
when pulled out, seem to be but one; and it is only necessary, then, to pull out
the inner one or leave it closed in order to render the inclosed birds visible or
invisible.
In order to cause the disappearance of smaller objects trick performers often
employ a jewel box, and, after putting the object (a ring, for example) into this,
they hand it to some person and ask him to hold it, requesting him at the same
time to wrap it up in several sheets of paper. But this simple motion has
permitted the performer to cause the ring to drop into his hand through a small
trap opening beneath the box. Yet, while he is doing this, the spectators think
that they hear the noise made by the ring striking against the sides of the box.
But that is only a delusion; for the noise that is heard proceeds from a small
hammer which is hidden within the cover under the escutcheon, and which is
rendered immovable when the latter is pressed upon by the performer. The box

can thus be shaken without any noise being heard within it, and the spectators
are led to believe that the object has disappeared.
Double-bottomed boxes are so well known that it is useless to describe them.
Sometimes the double bottom is hidden in the cover, and at others it rests against
one of the sides. Such boxes permit of the disappearance or substitution of
objects that are not very thick, such as a note, an image, or a card.—La Nature.

The Swinging Half Lady.
An arrangement is made similar to a hammock, which is attached to the back of
the cabinet, and is then affixed to a false wooden bust made to fit the bust of the
lady. It should be thickly padded where the part of her body rests upon it, and
should be tightly strapped to the lady across the shoulders and back. The bust is
covered with silk, satin, or any fine dress material, and trimmed to represent a
lady’s low-necked dress bodice with short shoulder sleeves. The remaining
portion of the lady is encased in a dark-colored skirt (black velvet is the best),
and her feet are firmly strapped to a wood rest at the back of the cabinet, as
shown in Fig. 2. The bust is supported upon a swing, in the front of the cabinet.
Four brass chains support a slab of wood about 28 inches long by about 8 or ten
inches in width.

fig. 1.

Midway up the chains at each side is a cross piece of wood fixed to the chains by
which, when the lady grasps them with her hands, she can easily lift the bust
from the wood slab, allowing a sword to be passed beneath the bottom of the
bust and the top of the wood slab. When the lady is supported upon the swing
she cannot swing forward, but can only swing with a slight sideway motion,
because if she attempted to swing forward the slab of wood would then no
longer support the bust, and the performer would be in danger of breaking her
back, as she would have no other support to sustain her, except the back of the
cabinet to which her feet are strapped.
The slab of wood forming the swing is made in some cases with two half-round
holes, to allow the lady to place her hands through, to show that she can pass her
hands beneath her.
The interior of the cabinet should be of one uniform color, if possible of a dark
blue or dark maroon. It should be about six feet in depth by about five to seven
feet across the front, according to fancy. The front should have either dark blue,
maroon, or green baize curtains, so made as to draw right across. On each side of

the cabinet are affixed two lamps, as in Fig. 1, with large plated reflectors about
10 or 12 inches in diameter. These should be so fixed that the curtains can be
drawn at the back of them; and thus, when lighted, reflect a strong and powerful
light outward, throwing the interior of the cabinet into deep and gloomy shadow.
It must be evident, therefore, to the reader that the four lamps and reflectors play
a very important part in making this illusion perfect, because in consequence of
a strong, bright, and dazzling light being reflected into the eyes of the spectators
it is impossible for them to distinguish anything inside the cabinet, beyond the
bust and head of the lady.

fig. 2.

The position for the lady performing is one of pain. In the first place she has to
be tightly strapped to the bust, which causes difficulty in breathing and talking;
and, again, the head must be held well back to make it appear from the front as if
the false bust and neck were completely one and upright.
Many ladies performing this illusion cannot help showing in their look the pain
and suffering they are experiencing even when before their audiences, thereby
spoiling the effect the illusion would have had if their features had been
composed and the face wreathed with smiles.

The Aerial Suspension.
This trick has been before the public for many years, but when performed still
causes considerable sensation. The apparatus required is, first, a kind of iron
corset, for which the performer doing this trick must be properly measured and
accurately fitted with it, according to his or her size and build. This corset is
strapped upon the body, and attached to it is a rod passing down the right side
from beneath the arm, almost to the right knee. Below the arm is a projecting
piece so made as to fit into a socket, and almost in the shape of a crutch; and the
rod passing down the side of the performer is so constructed that when a person
has this apparatus strapped securely upon him or her, and the projecting piece
under the arm is fitted into the socket of the pole, the body can be raised, and the
toes in rising will describe an arc of about 90 deg., assuming the position shown
in the figure. To effect this two poles are required of the same length, one made
of wood and the other of iron; the latter being fitted into a socket in the stand,
and having also a socket in the top, in which is fixed the projecting piece under
the arm, and this rod therefore supports the whole weight of the body during the
performance. The two poles are both painted the same color, and to the audience
both appear to be the same.

The performer will have to provide a specially made costume to suit the working
of the apparatus. The young lady (we will imagine that it is a lady who performs
this suspension feat) is brought forward by the professor, and the two rods are
shown, and a stool is placed on the stand on which the lady steps. The iron rod is
now placed in position and fixed under the right arm, and the wood rod is placed
under the left; the professor, now making a few passes with his hands, apparently
sends the lady performer into a mesmeric sleep, and gently draws the rod from
under the left arm and lays it down. Making a few more passes he gradually
raises the body of the lady into a horizontal position, and she will appear to be
suspended almost in the air. With a little practice the body can be placed into any
position. When the lady has been suspended long enough, make a few more
passes and gently lower the body until in an upright position, and again place the
wood rod under the left arm and place the stool beneath her feet, and taking a
handkerchief wipe the lady’s face, and she will appear to awaken and will step
down from her exalted position.
An improvement has lately been introduced in the apparatus; the iron column is
hollow, and through the center another rod is worked from beneath the stage, and

in the socket of the iron rod at the top are placed a number of teeth which catch
corresponding teeth in the projecting piece under the arm, and this being worked
from below the stage will cause the body of the lady to slowly rise into a
horizontal position without being so placed by the professor. This is certainly a
very great improvement in the mode of working, as while the professor simply
makes a few passes with his hands the body gradually rises, apparently to the
audience without any visible means whatever.

The Ghost Illusion.
This illusion, which created so much sensation in London and first known here
as “Pepper’s Ghost,” I will endeavor to explain, and make the working of it as
clear as I possibly can to the reader. It is caused by the figure of a man or woman
being reflected upon a sheet of glass, and the audience looking through this
glass, apparently see the figure upon the stage, but in reality it is not so, being
only upon the glass. In the first place a sheet of plate glass perfectly clear and
without a blemish must be procured, and of such a size that it will show the
image or reflection of the performer who impersonates the ghost. This glass is
fixed at the front of the stage and inclined slightly toward the audience. In front
and below the stage a chamber is made, completely concealed from the eyes of
the audience, but having an opening at the upper part, through which the
reflection of the person below is thrown upward upon the sheet of glass. The
reader can understand the position better by referring to the accompanying cut.
The body of the person to be reflected is against an inclined plane, which is
covered with black cloth. This inclined plane is fixed upon castors, and the
person leaning against it, moving this slightly with his feet, either to the right or
left, will cause it to appear as if the ghost was either walking forward or
backward. Below the stage a person is placed with a powerful lantern, and the
light from it is thrown upon the figure representing the ghost, thus causing it to
be reflected strongly and brightly against the glass fixed above. The stage must
be darkened and dimly lighted, otherwise the ghost will hardly be visible. In
making various motions of the body the ghost actor must reverse his
movements; for example, if he raises his left arm the figure reflected above will
appear to raise its right arm. The glass, as I stated before, must be without a
blemish, and fixed at an angle of 20 deg., inclining forward toward the audience,
and the nearer the audience are seated to it the larger the glass must be. The size

of the glass depends upon the height of the figure to be reflected and the size of
the stage and the theater or hall in which it is exhibited. This again will be
understood by referring to the figure, in which A represents the eyes of that part
of the audience seated in the lower portion or body of the hall, while B
represents the eyes of those who are seated in the boxes or gallery, thus showing
the angle by which the height of the glass is determined, as the angles of
incidence are always equal to the angles of reflection; and the same angles of
incidence are likewise equal to the corresponding angles of the reflected figure.

This illusion was invented in 1863 by Prof. Pepper, by whom it was patented,
and for a long period it was exhibited at the Polytechnic in London, in various
forms and guises, and drew thousands from all parts to see this wonderful
exhibition. Although it cannot now be classed as a “novelty,” yet it still creates a
great sensation whenever and wherever it is exhibited.
[If the reader desires to pursue this subject further he is referred to “The Art of
Modern Conjuring,” by Prof. Henri Garenne, to whom we are indebted for much
that we present here. Ward, Lock & Co., publishers, New York and London.]

PART III.—MEDICAL.

Prescriptions of Eminent Physicians.
ARRANGED AND REVISED BY
F R A NK V. L US E , M . D. , Ch i ca g o , I l l .
AUTHORITIES.
Agnew. Hazard.
Atthill. Hebra.

Bartholow. Liebreich.
Basham. Luse.
Beasley.
Bibron. Mackenzie.
Brande. Milton.
Mitchell,
Browne.
R. W.
Brown-
Séquard.
Pancoast.
Chapman. Porcher.

Da Costa. Ricord.
Dewees. Ringer.

Ellis. Schafhirt.
Smith.
Fenner. Squibbs.

Gerhard. Tanner.
Getchell. Thornton.
Gross. Trousseau.
Guy.
Waring.

Hartshorne.

Albuminuria (Bright’s Disease).
℞ Tincturæ Ferri Chloridi f Ʒiij.
Acidi Acetici diluti f Ʒij.
Syrupi simplicis f ℥iss.
ad f
Liquoris Ammonii Acetatis q. s. ℥iv.—
M.
Sig. Take a dessertspoonful every six hours. Basham.

Alcoholism (Chronic).
℞ Tincturæ Capsici
Tincturæ Zingiberis āā f ℥j.
Tincturæ Valerianæ ammo
āā f ℥ij.
Tincturæ Gentianæ comp
—M.
Sig. Take a dessertspoonful in a teacupful of hop tea three or four times a day.
Gerhard.
Amenorrhœa (Absence of Menstrual Flow).
℞ Myrrhæ gr. viij.
Pulveris Jalapæ gr. xv.
Ferri Sulphatis exsiccatæ
Pulveris Aloes et Canellæ āā Ʒj.
Syrupi simplicis q. s.
Fiat massa et divide in pilulas l.
Sig. Take two or three pills at bedtime, for several nights successively.
N. Chapman.
Asthma.
℞ Potassii Iodidi Ʒiij.
Extracti Belladonnæ fluidi f Ʒj.
Extracti Lobeliæ fluidi f Ʒij.
Extracti Grindeliæ fluidi f ℥ss.
Glycerinæ

āā f
Aquæ destillatæ ℥iss.—
M.
Sig. Take a tablespoonful every two, three, or four hours, as necessary.
Bartholow.
℞ Foliorum Belladonnæ
āā
Foliorum Hyoscyami
gr. iij.
gr. one-
Extracti Opii aquosi
fifth.
Aquæ Laurocerasi q. s.
Moisten the leaves with a solution of the opium extract in the cherry-laurel
water. Let them dry thoroughly and roll into a cigarette. Two to four of these
cigarettes may be smoked every day. Trousseau.

Biliousness.
1
℞ Resinæ Podophilli gr. 4
Resinæ Jalapæ
Extracti Colocynthidis compositi
āā
Gambogiæ
gr. iiss.
Olei Juniperi q. s.
Misce et fiant pilulæ No. ii.
Sig. One dose, at bedtime. Guy.

Burns and Scalds.
℞ Plumbi Carbonatis ℥iv.
Olei Lini q. s.
Tere simul et fiat pinguentum.
Sig. Apply liberally on linen or lint. Gross.

℞ Acidi Salicylici Ʒj
Olei Olivæ f ℥viij.
—M.
Sig. Apply to burn, covering with linen or lint. Bartholow.

Biliary Calculi (Stone in the Bile Duct).
℞ Chloroformi purificati Ʒij.
gtt.
Olei Cinnamomi
viij.
Spiritus Camphoræ
āā f
Tincturæ Opii deodoratæ
Ʒiss.
f Ʒiij.
Spiritus Vini
—M.
Sig. Dose, from five to thirty drops, in sweetened water, every hour or two.
Hartshorne.
Renal or Vesical Calculi (Stone in Kidney or Bladder).
℞ Liquoris Potassæ f ℥ss.
Tincturæ Humuli f ℥iss.
Infusi Calumbæ f ℥iv.
Syrupi Aurantii Corticis f ℥ij.
Fiat mistura.
Sig. Take a tablespoonful three times daily. H. Green.

Cancer.
℞ Arsenici Iodidi gr. j.
Extracti Conii ℈ij.
Fiat massa, et divide in pilulas xvi.
Sig. Take one pill morning and night. Marsden.

Carbuncle.
gr.
℞ Quininæ Hydrochloratis
xxiv.
Potassii Chloratis Ʒij.
♏ xl
Acidi Hydrochlorici
(!)
Tincturæ Ferri Chloridi f Ʒij.
Tincturæ Cardamomi f ℥iss.
Aquæ destillatæ q. s. ad f
℥vj.—

M.
Sig. Take a tablespoonful every three hours, diluted. Gerhard.

Nasal Catarrh.
℞ Sodæ carbonatis
Sodæ biboratis āā Ʒ ij.
℥ ss.–
Liq. sodæ chlorinatæ
Ʒij.
Glycerini ℥ j.
℥ vj.—
Aquæ ad
M.
Sig. Apply cold by means of a hand-spray apparatus. Pugin Thornton.

℞ Borax Ʒ iij.
Salicylic acid Ʒ ij.
Glycerine ℥ ijss.
Water, to make ℥ iij.
Sig. From one to two drachms in one-half pint of water, applied by means of a
douche. Is especially useful in catarrh with ulceration, usually due to syphilis.

For simple catarrh use the following:
℞ Chloride of ammonium
āā gr.
Borax
x.
Οss.—
Aquæ
M.
Sig. Use with a douche, spray-producer, or by means of insufflation.
Lennox Browne.
Cholera.
℞ Tinct. Opii
Tinct. Capsici
Spts. Camphoræ āā ℥j.
Chloroformi f Ʒiij.
Alcoholis q. s. ad. ℥v.
—M.

Sig. Dose five drops to one teaspoonful. Squibbs.

In time of epidemic cholera, or diarrhœa, when any person has two movements
of the bowels more than natural within the twenty-four hours, the second one
should be followed by a dose of this mixture to be repeated after every
movement that follows. If the move­ments increase in frequency or in
copiousness after the second dose of the medicine has been taken a physician
should be sent for at once, and a double dose be taken after each movement until
he arrives. Immediately after taking the first dose the person should go to bed
and remain there for twelve hours after the diarrhœa has entirely ceased.
℞ Acidi Sulphurici Ʒss.
1
Morphinæ Sulphatis gr. 3 .
Spiritus Vini Gallici f Ʒiss.
f ℥iij.
Aquæ destillatæ
—M.
Sig. Inject under the skin of the arms, legs, and over the stomach every hour
until the symptoms are relieved. (When rice-water discharges, vomiting, cramps,
and shrinkage of the extremities supervene.)
R. W. Mitchell, Memphis, Tenn.
℞ Creasoti gtt. j.
Aquæ Camphoræ
āā f
Infusi Gentianæ compositi Ʒvj.—
M.
Sig. One dose every two hours. (In the cold stage.)
J. T. Jones, Nashville, Tenn.
Cholera Infantum.
℞ Plumbi Acetatis gr. viij.
Acidi Acetici diluti gtt. vj.
Tincturæ Opii deodoratæ gtt. iv.
Syrupi simplicis
āā f
Aquæ Menthæ piperitæ ℥ss.—
M.
Sig. Dose a teaspoonful every two or three hours. (For a child two years old.)

Da Costa.
℞ Cannabis Indicæ gr. j.
Pulveris Opii gr. ss.
Camphoræ gr. ij.
Misce et fiat pilula.
Sig. Take at bedtime. Lombe Atthill.

Constipation.
℞ Extracti Stillingiæ fluidi f Ʒv.
Tincturæ Belladonnæ
Tincturæ Nucis Vomicæ
āā f Ʒj.
Tincturæ Physostigmatis
—M.
Sig. Dose, twenty drops in water, three times a day before meals. (In habitual
constipation.) Bartholow.

℞ Cascara Cordial ℥ij.
Sig. Teaspoonful three times a day before meals. Luse.

General Debility.
℞ Pulveris Aloes Socotrinæ ℥j.
Pulveris Zedoariæ
Pulveris Gentianæ
Croci
Pulveris Rhei
Agarici āā Ʒj.
Spiritus Vini Gallici Οij.
Macera per dies septem, cola, et adde—
f ℥ij.—
Syrupi simplicis
M.
Sig. Dose, a tablespoonful three times a day in water. (This is the celebrated
Baûme de Vie, or Elixir of Life.)

Delirium Tremens.
℞ Quininæ Hydrochloratis ℈ij.

Acidi Hydrochlorici diluti f Ʒiss.
Syrupi Zingiberis f ℥iss.
ad f
Aquæ destillatæ q. s. ℥iv.—
M.
Sig. Dose, a dessertspoonful in hop tea every two hours. (In the preliminary
stage known as horrors.) Gerhard.

℞ Chloral Hydratis Ʒss.
f Ʒij.—
Aquæ destillatæ
M.
Sig. One dose. (To enforce sleep.) Liebreich.

℞ Antimonii et Potassii Tartratis gr. j.
Tincturæ Aconiti Radicis f Ʒss.
Tincturæ Opii f Ʒij.
ad f
Aquæ destillatæ q. s. ℥iv.—
M.
Sig. Dose, a dessertspoonful in porter every two or three hours. (In strong and
robust patients with boisterous delirium.) Ringer.

Diarrhœa (Children.)
℞ Bismuthi Subnitratis gr. x.
Pulveris Calcii Phosphatis gr. xij.
Sacchari Lactis Ʒss.
Misce et fiant chartulæ No. x.
Sig. One powder after each evacuation. (In wasting diarrhœa of children.)
Hazard.
℞ Sodii Bicarbonatis Ʒss.
Tincturæ Catechu f Ʒij.
Syrupi Rhei aromatici
āā f
Tincturæ Cinchonæ compositæ
℥ss.

f ℥j.—
Tincturæ Opii camphoratæ
M.
Sig. Dose, for a child two or three years old, a teaspoonful every two or three
hours. Getchell.

Diarrhœa (Adults).
℞ Cupri Sulphatis
Morphinæ Sulphatis āā gr. j.
gr.
Quininæ Sulphatis
xxiv.
Misce et fiant pilulæ No. xii.
Sig. Take one pill three times a day. (In chronic cases). Bartholow.

℞ Pulveris aromatici Ʒiij.
Spiritus Ammonii aromatici f Ʒiij.
Tincturæ Catechu f Ʒx.
Tincturæ Cardamomi compositæ f Ʒvj.
Tincturæ Opii deodoratæ f Ʒj.
ad f
Misturæ Cretæ q. s. ℥xx.—
M.
Sig. Dose, eight drachms for an adult; four drachms for a child of twelve years;
two drachms for seven years old, after each liquid motion. (General cholera and
diarrhœa mixture.) Henery Beasley.

Dysentery.
℞ Tincturæ Opii deodoratæ f Ʒij.
Vini Ipecacuanhæ f Ʒij.
Olei Ricini f ℥ij.
Pulveris Acaciæ
Syrupi simplicis
Aquæ Cinnamomi āā q. s.
Fiat emulsio, secundum artem, ad f ℥vj.
Sig. Take a tablespoonful every two hours. Gerhard.

℞ Tincturæ Hamamelis f Ʒss.
Elixiris simplicis f Ʒiiiss.
Syrupi simplicis f ℥ss.
f ℥j.—
Aquæ destillatæ
M.
Sig. Dose, a teaspoonful every two or three hours. (Where there is much blood.)
Ringer.
Dysmenorrhœa (Difficult Menstruation.)
℞ Camphoræ ℈j.
ut fiat
Alcoholis q. s.
pulvis.
Dein adde—
Pulveris Acaciæ
Sacchari albi āā Ʒj.
Aquæ Cinnamomi f ℥j.
Fiat mistura.
Sig. Dose, the one-half the instant pain is felt; if not relieved in an hour or two,
give the remainder. Dewees.

℞ Extracti Gelsemii fluidi f Ʒiiss.
Elixiris simplicis f Ʒvss.
f ℥j.—
Syrupi Aurantii Corticis
M.
Sig. Take a teaspoonful every two hours. Porcher.

℞ Tincturæ Opii deodoratæ f Ʒij.
Extracti Cimicifugæ f ℥ss.
f Ʒx.—
Syrupi simplicis
M.
Sig. Take a teaspoonful every three or four hours. (To restore the menstrual flow
after suddenly checked.) Ringer.

Dyspepsia.
℞ Pulveris Radicis Rhei Ʒj.
Pulveris Aloes ℈ij.

Sodii Bicarbonatis Ʒij.
Valerianæ contusæ
Serpentariæ contusæ
Gentianæ contusæ
Quassiæ contusæ āā ℥ss.
Spiritus Frumenti Οij.
Macera in vaso leviter clauso per horas bis quatuor viginta, et cola.
Sig. Dose, a wineglassful three times a day. Liebreich.

Epilepsy.
℞ Ammonii Bromidi
āā
Potassii Iodidi
℈viij.
Potassii Bromidi Ʒvj.
Sodii Bicarbonatis Ʒij.
Tincturæ Calumbæ f ℥ij.
f ℥vj.
Aquæ destillatæ
—M.
Sig. Take a dessertspoonful after each meal, and a tablespoonful at bedtime.
Brown-Séquard.
Eyes (Inflammation of).
℞ Morph. Sulph gr. iij.
Zinci Sulph gr. ij.
℥j.—
Aquæ destillatæ
M.
Sig. Apply two drops directly to the eye. Luse.

Frost-bite.
℞ Iodi ℈j.
Potassii Iodidi gr. iv.
Aquæ destillatæ ♏vj.
℥j.—
Adipis
M.
Sig. Apply once daily. (With unbroken skin.) Hebra.

℞ Fellis Bovini recentis f Ʒiij.
f Ʒj.—
Balsami Peruviani
M.
Sig. Apply two or three times a day. (With broken or unbroken skin.)
Hugh Smith.
Gonorrhœa and Gleet.
℞ Liquoris Potassæ f Ʒj.
Balsami Copaibæ f ℥ss.
Tincturæ Cubebæ f Ʒvj.
Liquoris Morphinæ Sulphatis f ℥j.
ad f
Aquæ Camphoræ q. s. ℥vj.—
M.
Sig. Take a tablespoonful four times a day. D. Hayes Agnew.

℞ Hydrastinæ Ʒj.
f ℥iv.—
Mucilaginis Acaciæ
M.
Sig. A half ounce as an injection. (In chronic gonorrhœa and gleet.)
Bartholow.
℞ Zinci Sulphatis
āā gr.
Acidi tannici
xv.
f ℥vj.
Aquæ Rosæ
—M.
Sig. A half ounce as an injection two or three times daily. (In gleet.)
Ricord.
℞ Morphinæ Acetatis gr. vj.
Plumbi Acetatis
āā gr.
Zinci Sulphatis
viij.
gtt.
Creasoti
viij.
f ℥vj.
Aquæ destillatæ
—M.

Sig. As an injection twice daily. H. H. Smith.

℞ Zinci Sulphatis ℥j.
℥iij.—
Aluminis
M.
Sig. Dissolve a teaspoonful in one pint of water and inject three times a day. (In
females.) Hazard.

Hay Fever.
℞ Potassii arsenitis gr. xv.
Aquæ destillatæ f ℥j.
Solve.
Unsized white paper to be thoroughly moistened with this solution, cut into
twenty equal parts, and each part rolled into a cigarette, two or three of which
may be smoked daily. Trousseau.

℞ Tincturæ Aconiti Radicis f Ʒiss.
f Ʒiiss.
Glycerini
—M.
Sig. Apply to outside of nose. Ringer.

Headache (See Liniments).
℞ Ætheris
Spiritus Ammoniæ aromatici āā f Ʒj.
Aquæ Camphoræ f Ʒx.
Tincturæ Cardamomi compositæ f Ʒj.
Misce pro haustu.
Sig. Take two to three times a day. (In nervous headache.) Brande.

℞ Atropinæ Sulphatis gr. ss.
Chinoidinæ Ʒj.
Misce et fiant pilulæ No. lx.
Sig. One pill twice or thrice a day. (In sick headache.) Bartholow.

Hemorrhoids (Piles).

℞ Pulveris Jalapæ
Potassii Bitartratis
Potassii Nitratis āā ℥ss.
Confectionis Sennæ ℥j.
Syrupi simplicis q. s.
Misce et fiat electuarium.
Sig. A bolus the size of a hazel-nut three times a day. Ellis.

℞ Fluid Ext. Ohio Buckeye ℥j.
Fluid Ext. Horse Chestnut ℥j.
Alcohol ℥iv.
Water ℥iv.
Simple Elixir ℥vi.
Sig. Dose, one teaspoonful. Mackenzie.

℞ Olei Theobromæ ℥ss.
Extracti Krameriæ ℈ij.
Pulveris Opii gr. v.
Misce secundum artem, et fiant suppositoria No. x.
Sig. Use one morning and night. J. Pancoast.

Impotence and Sexual Debility.
gr.
℞ Pulveris Cantharidis
xviij.
Pulveris Opii
āā gr.
Pulveris Camphoræ
xxxvj.
Confectionis Rosæ q. s.
Misce et fiant pilulæ No. xxxvi.
Sig. Take one pill at night. (From general debility.) Hazard.

℞ Extracti Vanillæ fluidi f ℥j.
Sig. Dose, a teaspoonful at night. (In old people.) Gerhard.

℞ Phosphori gr. ss.
Ætheris f ℥ss.
Solve, et adde—
Tincturæ Cantharidis
āā f
Tincturæ Nucis Vomicæ ℥ss.—
M.
Sig. Take thirty drops three or four times a day. Vogt.

℞ Fluid Ext. Damiana 1 ounce.
Dialysed Iron 1
ounce.
2

Tinct. Cantharides 1
ounce.
2

Acid Phosphoric (diluted) 1
ounce.
2

Lemon juice 1
ounce.
2

Glycerine 2 ounces.
Simple Elixir, q. s. to make 1 pint.
Sig. Dose, one teaspoonful three times a day. (Useful in all cases of sexual
debility. A most efficient nerve tonic.) Kilner’s Formulary.

Leuchorrhœa.
℞ Zinci Sulphatis
Aluminis āā Ʒiss.
f ℥vj.
Glycerini
—M.
Sig. Add a tablespoonful to a pint of water and inject night and morning.
Hazard.
Menorrhagia (Excessive Menstrual Flow).
℞ Tincturæ Ferri Chloridi f Ʒiiss.
Acidi Phosphorici diluti f Ʒiiiss.
ad f
Syrupi Acidi citrici q. s. ℥iv.—
M.
Sig. Take a dessertspoonful three times a day. (When pale and debilitated.)

Gerhard.
℞ Acidi Gallici gr. xv.
Acidi Sulphurici aromatici ♏xv.
Tincturæ Cinnamomi f Ʒij.
f ℥ij.—
Aquæ destillatæ
M.
Sig. One dose, to be taken every four hours until bleeding ceases. (In profuse
bleeding.) Hazard.

Neuralgia (See Liniments).
℞ Strychninæ Sulphatis gr. j.
Morphinæ Sulphatis
āā gr.
Acidi arseniosi
iss.
Extracti Aconiti gr. xv.
Quininæ Sulphatis Ʒj.
Misce et fiant pilulæ No. xxx.
Sig. Take one pill three times a day. S. D. Gross.

Nymphomania (Excessive Sexual Desire).
℞ Potassii Bromidi Ʒvj.
f ℥v.—
Aquæ destillatæ
M.
Sig. Three teaspoonfuls before dinner and four at bedtime.
Brown-Séquard.
Rattlesnake Bite.
℞ Hydrargyri Chloridi corrosivi gr. ij.
Potassii Iodidi gr. iv.
Aquæ destillatæ ♏v.
Solve et adde—
Ʒv.—
Bromi
M.
Sig. Take ten drops in a tablespoonful of wine or brandy every fifteen or twenty
minutes. (Recommended by Bibron, Prince Paul of Wuertemberg, W. A.
Hammond, and others.) Bibron.

Rheumatism (See Liniments).
℞ Sodii Bicarbonatis Ʒij.
Acidi Salicylici Ʒiij.
Glycerini
āā f ℥ij.
Aquæ destillatæ
—M.
Sig. One teaspoonful every four hours. N. B. Kennedy.

>℞ Pulveris Guaiaci Resinæ
āā gr.
Potassii Iodidi
x.
Tincturæ Colchici Seminis f Ʒss.
Aquæ Cinnamomi
s. ad f
Syrupi simplicis āā q. ℥j.—
M.
Sig. A dessertspoonful to a tablespoonful thrice daily. (In chronic rheumatism.)
Philadelphia Hospital.
Sciatica.
gr. one-
℞ Extracti Belladonnæ
sixth.
gr. one-
Extracti Stramonii
fifth.
1
Extracti Cannabis Indicæ gr. 4 .
1
Extracti Aconiti gr. 3 .
1
Extracti Opii gr. 2 .
2
Extracti Hyoscyami gr. 3 .
Extracti Conii gr. j.
Pulveris Glycyrrhizæ q. s.
Misce et fiat pilula.
Sig. Take three, four, and even five pills a day. pro re nata.
Brown-Séquard.
Spermatorrhœa (See Impotence).
℞ Quininæ Sulphatis gr. vj.

Acidi Sulphurici diluti f Ʒj.
Tincturæ Cardamomi compositæ f Ʒiij.
f ℥vss.
Aquæ Cinnamomi
—M.
Sig. Two tablespoonfuls twice daily. Milton.

℞ Pulveris Opii gr. v.
Camphoræ ℈iv.
Pulveris Acaciæ
Syrupi simplicis āā q. s.
Fiat massa in pilulas No. xl. dividenda.
Sig. Take two pills three times a day. Waring.

℞ Potassii Bromidi ℥j.
ad f ℥ij.
Aquæ destillatæ q. s.
—M.
Sig. Take a teaspoonful three times a day. (In the strong and plethoric).
Bartholow.
Syphilis.
“Ricord’s Mixture,” which has been so highly recommended in syphilitic
affections is composed as follows:
℞ Hydrarg. Iod. rub gr. iv.
Potass. Iod ℥j.
Fl. Ext. Sarsap. comp ℥j.
Aquæ q. s. ad ℥v.
—M.
Sig. Teaspoonful.

℞ Potass. Iodid Ʒij.
Hydrarg. Biniodid gr. ss.
Syr. Aurant. Cort ℥j.
Tinct. Aurant. Cort Ʒj.
℥iv.—
Aquæ ad
M.

Sig. Teaspoonful in water after eating. (Mixed treatment.) Keyes.

℞ Hydrarg. Chlor. Corros gr. ij.
Potassii Iodidi Ʒij.
Tr. Cinchona Co ℥ij.
℥ij.—
Aquæ dist
M.
Sig. Take one drachm three times a day. Discontinue when gums get sore and
resume again when soreness is gone. Luse.

℞ Acidi Nitro-Muriatici diluti f Ʒiiss.
f
Syrupi Stillingiæ compositi
Ʒxiiiss.
f ℥ij.—
Aquæ destillatæ
M.
Sig. Dose, one to two teaspoonfuls three times a day, with denutrition. (In cases
saturated with the approved remedies, but still presenting patches on the skin
and mucous membranes.) Bartholow.

Tapeworm.
℞ Granati Corticis Radicis ℥ss.
Seminum Peponis ℥j.
Extracti Filicis maris ætherei f Ʒj.
Pulveris Ergotæ Ʒj.
Pulveris Acaciæ Ʒij.
Olei Tiglii ♏ij.
Thoroughly bruise the granate bark and pumpkin-seed, and with the ergot boil in
eight ounces of water for fifteen minutes, and strain through a coarse cloth. Rub
up well the croton oil and extract of male fern with the acacia, and form into an
emulsion with the decoction. Take at one dose at 10 o’clock in the morning,
having eaten no breakfast and having taken a full dose of Rochelle salts the
previous night. This expels the worm alive and entire within two hours, the head
firmly fastened to the side of its own body. Schafhirt.

℞ Pulveris Kamalæ gr. v-x.

Syrupi Aurantii Florum f Ʒss.
Mucilaginis Tragacanthæ Ʒj.
Aquæ destillatæ f ℥j.
Misce et fiat haustus.
Sig. Take early in the morning four hours after a purge. (For a child two to five
years. Tapeworm.). Tanner.

SYMBOLS OR SIGNS USED IN PRESCRIPTIONS.

♏. Minim, 1-60 part of a fluid drachm,
gtt. Gutta, drop; guttæ, drops.
℈j. Scrupulus vel scrupulum, a scruple=20 grains.
Ʒj. Drachma, a drachm=60 grains.
f Ʒj. Fluidrachma, a fluid or measured drachm.
℥j. Uncia, a troyounce=480 grains.
f ℥j. Fluiduncia, a fluidounce.
lbj. Libra, a pound, understood in prescription to apply to an officinal
pound of 5,760 grains.
Οj. Octarious, a pint.
gr. Granum, a grain; plural grana, grains.
ss. Semis, half, affixed to signs as above.
PHRASES AND ABBREVIATIONS USED IN PRESCRIPTIONS.
LATIN WORD. ABBREVIATION. TRANSLATION.
Ad To, up to.
Ad libitum Ad lib. At pleasure.
Adde Add. Let it or them be
added.
Ampulla A large bottle.
Ana A āā. Of each.
Aqua-bulliens Aq-bull. Water—boiling.
Aqua-fervens Aq-ferv. Water—hot.
Aqua-destillata Aq-dest. Water—distilled.
Bene Well.
Bis in dies Bis ind. Twice daily.
Bulliat, bulliant Bull. Let boil.

Cape. Capiat Cap. Take, Let him
take.
Capsula Caps. Capsule.
Ceratum Cerata. A Cerate.
Charta (Karta) Chart. A paper
(medicated).
Chartula (Kartula) Chart. A little paper for
a powder.
Cibus Cib. Food.
Cochleare magnum Coch mag. A tablespoon.
Cochleare parvum Coch parv. A teaspoon.
Cola. Colatus Col. Strain, Strained.
Collyrium Collyr. An eye wash.
Collutorium Collut. A mouth wash.
Compositus Co. Comp. Compound.
Congius C. A gallon.
Confectio Conf. A confection.
Cortex Cort. Bark.
Cum With.
Decoctum Decoc. A decoction.
Dilute, Dilutus Dil. Dilute.
Dimidius Dim. One-half.
Divide D. Div. Divide (thou.)
Dividendus Dividend. To be divided.
Dividatur in partes æquales D in p æq. Let it be divided
into equal parts.
Dosis Dos. A dose.
Emplastrum Emp. A plaster.
Enema Enem. An enema.
Extende supra Exten Sup. Spread upon.
Extractum Ext. An extract.
Fac. fiat. fiant F. Make, Let be
made.
Filtrum Fil. A filter, Filter
(thou).
Fluidus Fl. f. Fluid.
Gargarisma Garg. A gargle.

Glyceritum Glyc. A Glycerite.
Gutta, Guttæ Gtt. A drop, Drops.
Guttatim Guttat. Drop by drop.
Haustus Haust. A draught.
In dies Ind. Daily.
Infusum Inf. An infusion.
Injectio Inj. An injection.
Instar Inst. Like.
Lac Milk.
Layena A flask or bottle.
Libra Lb ℔ A pound.
Linteum Lint.
Liquor Liq. A solution.
Lotio A lotion.
Mane primo Mane pr. Very early in the
morning.
Magnus Mag. Large.
Massa Mass. A pill mass.
Mica panis Mic pan. A crumb of
bread.
Misce M. Mix.
Mistura Mist. A mixture.
Mucilago Mucil. A mucilage.
Nox. Nocte Maneque Night; At night
and in the
morning.
Numems, Numero No. A number, In
number.
Octarius O. A pint.
Ovum, Ovi Ov. An egg.
Optimus Opt. Best.
Pars Par. A part.
Partes æquales P æ. Equal parts.
Parvus Parv. Small.
Pediluvium A foot bath.
Pencilium Camelinum Pencil Cam. A camel’s-hair
pencil or brush.

Per fistulam vitreum Through a glass
tube.
Phiala Phil. A vial.
Pilula Pil. A pill.
Pro re nata P r n. According to
circumstances,
occasionally.
Pulvis Pulv. A powder.
Quantum Sufficiat Q S. As much as is
necessary.
Quaqua hora Q h. Every hour.
Saturatus Sat. Saturated.
Scatula Scat. A box.
Semissis Ss. A half.
Semidrachma Semidr. A half drachm.
Sesuncia Sesunc. An ounce and a
half.
Signa S Sy. Sign.
Sine Without.
Solve, Solutus Solv. Dissolve,
Dissolved.
Solutio Sol. A solution.
Spiritus Spr. A spirit.
Statim Stat. Immediately.
Suppositoria Suppos. A suppository.
Syrupus Syr. A syrup.
Talis Tal. Such or like.
Tinctura Tra Tr Tinct. A tincture.
Trochischus (Trokiscus) Troch. A troche.
Tritura Trit. Triturate.
Tere Simul Ter Sim. Rub together.
Ter in di T i d. Three times a
day.
Unguentum Ungt. An ointment.
Vinum Vin. A wine.
Vehichulum Vehic. A menstrum.

Vitellus Vit. The yolk (of an
egg).
Vitello Ovi Solutus V O S. Dissolved in yolk
of an egg.

APPROXIMATE MEASURES.
1
A drop=usually about 2 minim.
A teaspoonful=60 drops f Ʒj.
A dessertspoonful=f Ʒij.
A tablespoonful=f ℥ss.
A wineglassful=f ℥ij.
A teacupful=f ℥ix.
TABLE TO ASSIST THE BEGINNER IN PRESCRIBING LIQUIDS.
Having fixed upon the bulk of his liquid he will remember that there are in
1 fluid ounce, 8 teaspoonfuls each 1 fluid drachm.
2 fluid ounces, 15 teaspoonfuls each 1 fluid drachm.
4 fluid ounces, 30 teaspoonfuls each 1 fluid drachm.
4 fluid ounces, 15 dessertspoonfuls each 2 fluid drachms.
6 fluid ounces, 20 dessertspoonfuls each 2 fluid drachms.
1
6 fluid ounces, 12 tablespoonfuls each 2 fluid ounce.
1
8 fluid ounces, 15 tablespoonfuls each 2 fluid ounce.
1
1 pint, 30 tablespoonfuls, each 2 fluid ounce.
1 pint, 8 wineglassfuls each 2 fluid ounces.
TABLE FOR CALCULATING THE PERIOD OF UTERO-GESTATION.

TEN LUNAR
NINE CALENDAR MONTHS.
MONTHS.
From To Days. To Days.
September
January 1 273 October 7 280
30
February 1 October 31 273 November 7 280

November
March 1 275 December 5 280
30
December
April 1 275 January 5 280
31
May 1 January 31 276 February 4 280
June 1 February 28 273 March 7 280
July 1 March 31 274 April 6 280
August 1 April 30 273 May 7 280
September 1 May 31 273 June 7 280
October 1 June 30 273 July 7 280
November 1 July 31 273 August 7 280
December 1 August 31 274 September 6 280

The above Obstetric “Ready Reckoner” consists of two columns, one of
calendar, the other of lunar months, and may be read as follows: A patient has
ceased to menstruate on the first day of July; her confinement may be expected
at soonest about the 31st of March (the end of nine calendar months); or at
latest, on the 6th of April (the end of ten lunar months). Another has ceased to
menstruate on the 20th of January; her confinement may be expected on the 30th
of September, plus 20 days (the end of nine calendar months), at soonest; or on
the 7th of October, plus 20 days (the end of ten lunar months), at latest.
COMMON NAMES OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES.
COMMON NAMES. CHEMICAL NAMES.
Aqua Fortis Nitric Acid.
Aqua Regia Nitro-Muriatic Acid.
Blue Vitriol Sulphate of Copper.
Cream of Tartar Bitartrate Potassium.
Calomel Chloride of Mercury.
Chalk Carbonate Calcium.
Caustic Potassa Hydrate Potassium.
Chloroform Chloride of Gormyle.
Common Salt Chloride of Sodium.
Copperas, or Green Vitriol Sulphate of Iron.
Corrosive Sublimate Bi-Chloride of Mercury.
Diamond Pure Carbon.

Dry Alum Sulphate Aluminum and
Potassium.
Epsom Salts Sulphate of Magnesia.
Ethiops Mineral Black Sulphide of
Mercury.
Fire Damp Light Carburetted
Hydrogen.
Galena Sulphide of Lead.
Glauber’s-Salt Sulphate of Sodium.
Glucose Grape Sugar.
Goulard Water Basic Acetate of Lead.
Iron Pyrites Bi-Sulphide Iron.
Jeweler’s Putty Oxide of Tin.
King’s Yellow Sulphide of Arsenic.
Laughing Gas Protoxide of Nitrogen.
Lime Oxide of Calcium.
Lunar Caustic Nitrate of Silver.
Mosaic Gold Bi-Sulphide of Tin.
Muriate of Lime Chloride of Calcium.
Nitre of Saltpetre Nitrate of Potash.
Oil of Vitriol Sulphuric Acid.
Potash Oxide of Potassium.
Realgar Sulphide of Arsenic.
Red Lead Oxide of Lead.
Rust of Iron Oxide of Iron.
Salmoniac Muriate of Ammonia.
Salt of Tartar Carbonate of Potassa.
Slacked Lime Hydrate Calcium.
Soda Oxide of Sodium.
Spirits of Hartshorn Ammonia.
Spirit of Salt Hydrochloric or Muriatic
Acid.
Stucco, or Plaster of Paris Sulphate of Lime.
Sugar of Lead Acetate of Lead.
Verdigris Basic Acetate of Copper.
Vermillion Sulphide of Mercury.
Vinegar Acetic Acid (Diluted).

Volatile Alkali Ammonia.
Water Oxide of Hydrogen.
White Precipitate Ammoniated Mercury.
White Vitriol Sulphate of Zinc.

Proprietary and Elegant Preparations.
MEDICATED PADS.
Medicated pads are quite popular with many who have tried them, and a
multitude of remarkable cures are attributed to their use. We here present
formulas equal to the best, and as they are quite simple to prepare they can now
be tried with but little expense:
Liver Pad.
Red Cinchona Bark (powder) 4 ounces.
Fenugreek Seed (powder) 1 ounce.
Mandrake Root (powder) 1 ounce.
Black Root (powder) 1 ounce.
Gum Guaiac (powder) 3 ounces.
Bayberry Bark (powder) 4 drachms
Oil of Eucalyptus 4 drachms
Grind the drugs with the powdered guaiac and add the oil. The above is
sufficient for two pads, which should be made into an oblong or diamond shape,
with linen or muslin, and worn over the pit of the stomach. Liver pads are
recommended for all diseases arising from a disordered liver.
Kidney Pad.
Useful in all diseases of the kidneys.
Digitalis Leaves 2 ounces.
Black Cohosh 1 ounce.
Gum Benzoin (powdered) 1 ounce.
Gum Guaiacum (powdered) 1 ounce.
Juniper berries 1 ounce.
Queen of the Meadow 1 ounce.
Oil Juniper 2 ounces.

Grind the drugs to a moderately fine powder, and mix with the oils and gums.
Make an oblong pad and wear over the kidneys.

Lung Pad.
Useful in consumption and diseases of the lungs.

Grindelia Robusta 1 ounce.
Skullcap Leaves 1 ounce.
Blueberry Root 1
ounce.
2

Blood Root 1
ounce.
2

Yerba Santa 1
1 2 ounces.
Gum Ammoniac 1 ounce.
White Pine Turpentine Gum 1 12 ounces.
Oil of Tar 1 ounce.
Oil of Eucalyptus 1 ounce.
Oil of Sassafras 1 ounce.
Grind the drugs to a moderately fine powder and mix them with the oils and
gums. Make an oblong pad and wear well up to the throat.

Liniments.
Wonder Liniment.
Oil of Sassafras 8 ounces.
Oil of Cloves 2 ounces.
Oil of Turpentine 4 ounces.
Stronger Water of Ammonia 1 ounce.
Sulphuric Ether 4 ounces.
Chloroform 2 ounces.
ounces,
Camphor 2
av.
Alcohol sufficient to make 1 gallon.
Mix and dissolve.
As a universal liniment for both internal and external use this is without an equal
for relieving pain. It is used where any liniment is likely to do good in all aches
and pains. Preparations of this nature when used externally should be applied
plentifully and vigorously. This is the reason why itinerant venders of liniments
under various titles such as Wizard Oil, Pain Killer, Instant Relief, etc., produce
such remarkable cures in public. Their remedies all possess more or less
remedial value, but without brisk and patient rubbing they would do as little

good when applied externally as so much cold water. Now that a reliable
formula is at hand a quantity of this Wonder Liniment can be prepared at a
minimum cost without paying for bottles, labels, advertising, salaries, rents, etc.,
which are the necessary expenses of all medicine firms, and which ultimately are
borne by the consumer.

Liquid Lightning.
An excellent liniment for external application, which has been sold under
various names, is prepared as follows:
Aconitia 2 grains.
Glycerine 2 ounces.
Alcohol 4 ounces.
Mix, and apply by rubbing with the hand. This is useful in rheumatism,
neuralgia, headache, toothache, and all nervous pains.
Perry Davis’ Pain Killer.
Spirits of Camphor 2 ounces.
Tincture of Capsicum; 1 ounce.
Tincture of Guaiac 1
ounce.
2

Tincture of Myrrh 1
ounce.
2

Alcohol 4 ounces.
Mix.

Hamlin’s Wizard oil.
Tincture of Camphor 1 ounce.
Aqua Ammonia 1
ounce.
2

Oil of Sassafras 1
ounce.
2

Oil of Cloves 1 drachm.
Chloroform 2 drachms
Turpentine 1 drachm.
Alcohol 1
3 2 ounces.

Mix.

Mexican Mustang Liniment.

Petroleum Equal
parts
Olive Oil
and
Carbonate of Ammonia mix.
Merchant’s Gargling Oil.
Linseed Oil 1
2 2 pints.
Spirits of Turpentine 1
2 2 pints.
Western Petroleum 1 pint.
Liquor Potassa 1 ounce.
Sap Green 1 drachm.
Mix.

Radway’s Ready Relief.
This remedy, according to Peckolt, is an ethereal tincture of capsicum with
alcohol and camphor.

Liver Regulator.
Senna Alex 12 drachms
Podophyllin 3 drachms
Leptandria Virg 3 drachms
Virginia Snake Root 6 drachms
Ginseng 3 drachms
Alcohol 6 ounces.
Boiling water, to make 1 quart.
Dose, teaspoonful to one-half wineglassful, as needed. For all bilious diseases or
disorders arising from torpidity of the liver, dyspepsia, bilious headache,
costiveness, sour stomach, jaundice, heartburn, nervousness, restlessness, etc.

Elixir Cascara Sagrada Compound.
Fluid Extract Cascara 4 ounces.
Tincture Nux Vomica 1 drachm.
Glycerine 2 ounces.

Syrup of Ginger 2 ounces.
Peppermint Water 4 ounces.
Simple Elixir, to make 1 pint.
Mix and filter.
Dose, one teaspoonful before eating. For headache, constipation, biliousness,
dyspepsia, or all diseases arising from torpidity of the liver. Kilner’s Formulary.

Dr. Hamilton’s Blood Purifier.
Better than S. S. S. or any blood medicine on the market. A specific for scrofula,
syphilis, rheumatism, and all impurities of the blood:
Black Cohosh 1 ounce.
Blood Root 1
ounce.
2

Poke Root 1 drachm.
Elder Flowers 1
1 2 ounces.
Sassafras Bark 1
ounce.
2

Spikenard Root 1
1 2 ounces.
Alcohol 4 ounces.
Water 4 ounces.
Simple Elixir, q. s. to make 1 pint.
Macerate the drugs with alcohol and water, and after a few days transfer to
percolator. Percolate till clear, and then add to simple elixir.
Dose, one to two teaspoonfuls three times a day.

Blood Purifying Tea.
Burdock Root, cut 2 ounces.
Blue Flag Root, cut 2 ounces.
Dandelion Root, cut 1
1 2 ounces.
Sassafras Root, cut 1
ounce.
2

Sarsaparilla Root, cut 2 ounce.

Wild Cherry Bark, cut 1 ounce.
Yellow Dock Root, cut 1
ounce.
2

Mix thoroughly. Take two ounces of the tea and steep in a quart of water, with
1
gentle heat, for two hours; strain off 1 2 pints into a quart bottle and add half a
pint of alcohol and 4 ounces of sugar. The dose is a wineglassful for adults
before meals and at bedtime; children, in proportion to age.

Warner ’s Safe Kidney and Liver Cure.
In Germany each maker of patents must furnish the Government with the
formula for the patent he makes. This is the one furnished by Warner for “Safe
Kidney and Liver Cure.” Each bottle contains:
Extract of Lycopus Virginiana (the herb) 308 grains.
Extract of Hepatica (the herb) 232 grains.
Extract of Gaultheria 1
7 2 grains.
Potassium Nitrate 39 grains.
Alcohol (90°) 1
2 2 ounces.
Glycerine 10 drachms
Water, sufficient to make 1 pint.
Any one can now make this preparation equally as well as Warner. Fenner’s
Formulary.

Electric Catarrh Remedy.
This remedy, under various electrical names, is inclosed in a closely stoppered
bottle or box containing a bit of zinc and copper to which is attached a piece of
cotton or sponge saturated with the preparation, which is very volatile and
irritating to the mucuous membrane, and produces by inhalation a decided effect
at once. The patient is led to believe that there is some electrical value attached
to the combination, and, strange to say, in the face of such absurdity it has many
votaries; however, notwithstanding the electrical deception it has merits as an
inhalant, and remarkable cures of catarrh, headache, neuralgia, etc., are ascribed
to its use. The following is the required formula:

Essential Oil of Mustard 1 ounce.
Carbolic Acid 1 ounce.
Oil of Hemlock 1 ounce.
Camphor 1 ounce.
Alcohol 4 ounces.
Mix and dissolve. This can also be used as an external application, though not so
good as another under the head of “Liquid Lightning” (see page 119).

Catarrh Snuff.
Calomel 1 drachm.
Camphor, pulverised 1 drachm.
Acacia 2 drachms

Catarrh Salve.
The following remedy for catarrh, and other uses for which it is recommended,
was patented by William H. Thomas of Los Angeles, Cal. From the nature of its
ingredients and mode of preparation we are led to believe that it is the most
elegant and effective of all the “salve catarrh remedies” that have been brought
to our notice:
Petrolatum 1 ounce.
Pimento (powd. allspice) 4 grains.
Thymol 4 grains.
Boracic Acid 2 grains.
Subnitrate of Bismuth 2 grains.
Spirit of Wintergreen 3 drops.
Cassia Lanceolata Leaves (senna) 1
ounce.
4

The boracic acid, subnitrate of bismuth, thymol, and pimento is placed in a
mortar and reduced to a fine powder. The leaves of the cassia lanceolata are
subjected with the petrolatum to a sufficient degree of heat to extract the active
principles of the leaves, after which the petrolatum is strained off and added to
the powdered substances before mentioned with the spirit of wintergreen, the
whole being thoroughly commingled and mixed in any convenient manner. In

using the compound it is applied locally in the usual manner by means of the
fingers or any material by which the application can be thoroughly effected. As
an ointment it is especially applicable to the treatment of catarrh, malignant
sores, abrasions, and other affections where a local remedy can be applied.

Rubber Patching and Waterproofing.
Capt. Paul Boyton, the famous aquatic voyager in his rubber suit, has furnished
us two practical suggestions in regard to patching rubber boots, coats, etc., and
also to waterproof sails, tents, awnings, and similar fabrics.
To Patch a Rubber Boot or Garment.
Take a piece of sand-paper and roughen the edges
of the break as far around as the size of the patch.
Next apply rubber cement to the roughened
surface, and at the same time cement a piece of
rubber cloth or cloth well coated with the cement.
Let both remain for four hours in a place free from
dust. Then put on another thin coat of cement and
let them lay for about two hours. Next place the
patch carefully over the break and hammer well
together. Let stand for a few hours and the place
will be as strong and tight as ever. Be sure the patch and the article to be patched
are perfectly dry before applying the cement.
Pure natural rubber or rubber cement can be obtained at any rubber store, also
prepared patch cloth.

To Make Rubber Cement.
Take half a pound of pure natural rubber, cut it into small pieces, and dissolve it
in a sufficient quantity of 100 proof naptha. It will take from two to three days to
dissolve properly.

To Waterproof Canvas or Cloth.
Take one pound of yellow paraffine wax and dissolve in one quart of benzine.
Apply with a brush.

To Make Tissues Incombustible.
The Societé d’Encouragement of Paris has recently awarded a prize of 2,000
francs to J. A. Martin of Paris for the following preparations for making tissues
fire-proof. The conditions under which the award was offered were as follows:
The ingredients constituting the preparations must be cheap and easily applied,
must neither injure the tissues themselves nor their colors, must be neither of a
poisonous nor caustic nature, must not change in a very moist nor very dry
atmosphere, and finally the impregnated tissues and wood must remain
incombustible after they have been exposed for one month to a temperature of
100° to 120° Fahr. It was found that Martin’s fluids made the tissues and the
surface of wood incombustible, that they do not attack the tissues and their
colors, and that they remained incombustible after having been exposed for
several months in a drying chamber to a temperature of 97° Fahr. The
experiments were made by the Society and at the same time in the different Paris
theaters.
For all Light Tissues.
Ammonium Sulphate 8 parts.
Pure Ammonium Carbonate 1
2 2 parts.
Boracic Acid 3 parts.
Starch 2 parts.
Water 100 parts.
Two-fifths part of dextrine (or the same quantity of gelatine) may be substituted
for the 2 parts of starch. The fluid is heated to 85° Fahr. and the tissues
immersed in it until they are thoroughly permeated. They are then slightly wrung
and dried sufficiently for ironing. The quantity of the starch or dextrine or
gelatine may be changed according as the tissues are to be more or less stiff.

For Painted Decorations and Wood.
Sal-ammoniac 15 parts.
Boracic Acid 5 parts.
Glue 50 parts.
Gelatine 1
1 2 parts.
Water 100 parts.

Add sufficient powdered talc to give the mass the necessary consistency. For use
it is heated to 120° or 140° Fahr. and applied with a brush. For decorations
already painted it suffices to apply it to the back and wooden frames.

For Coarse Linen, Ropes, Straw, and Wood.
Sal-ammoniac 15 parts.
Boracic Acid 6 parts.
Borax 3 parts.
Water 100 parts.
The fluid is heated to 220° Fahr. and the articles are submerged in it for 15 to 20
minutes, wrung out slightly, and dried.—Techno-Chemical Receipt Book.

Gold and Silver Inks.
Take equal parts of gold leaf (or silver leaf) and honey. Triturate them in a
mortar until perfectly fine, add about 30 parts hot water, and triturate. Allow to
settle and pour off the water. Triturate again with fresh hot water. Allow to settle
and pour off as before. Repeat the washing several times until the honey is all
washed out, then dry the powdered gold leaf and mix it with water and gum
arabic. It must be shaken occasionally while writing. Very fine bronze may be
made into ink by adding water and gum arabic and shaking occasionally while
writing. (For other inks see page 20.)

Worcestershire Sauce.
The composition of this sauce is a trade secret, but a variety of similar sauces are
found on the market. A good imitation may be made as follows:
Chop the green outer covering of unripe walnuts 5 pounds, bruise them to a pulp
in a mortar, pour upon them 6 pints of good strong vinegar, and after standing a
day heat to boiling and strain with strong pressure. To the liquid thus obtained
add garlic, grated to a pulp, 2 ounces; capsicum, in fine powder, 2 ounces; black
pepper, 1 ounce; cinnamon, 1 12 ounces; nutmeg, 12 ounce; allspice, 1 ounce;
1
cloves, 2 ounce, all in fine powder; salt, 12 ounces; brown sugar, 8 ounces, and
enough good vinegar to make 1 gallon of the finished product. This is to stand
for some time, with frequent agitation, and then be put up in bottles.

Butter Color.
Annatto, fresh and of good quality, 2 pounds; salad oil of good quality without
flavor (purified cotton-seed oil is best), sufficient to make 1 gallon. Rub the
annatto with a portion, about one-third, of the oil and macerate it by the heat of a
water-bath for 12 hours, stirring occasionally, pour off the liquid and add to the
residue another portion, about one-third of the oil, and macerate as before,
adding the product of the portion before reserved, then add the remainder of the
oil to the sediment, macerate as before and add the product to the reserved
portions to make 1 gallon of butter color.—Fenner’s Formulary.

Rarey’s Original Horse Liniment.
Alcohol (95°) 8 ounces.
Spirit of Turpentine 8 ounces.
Oil of Sassafras 1 ounce.
Oil of Pennyroyal 1 ounce.
Oil of Origanum 1 ounce.
British Oil 1 ounce.
Tincture of Arnica 1 ounce.
Tincture of Cantharides 1 ounce.
Tincture of Camphor 1 ounce.
Aqua Ammoniæ 1 ounce.
Mix them, and make a liniment.

Hog Cholera Cure.
Powdered mandrake, 4 pounds; powdered charcoal, 2 pounds; powdered resin, 1
pound; powdered saltpetre, 1 pound; powdered madder, 1 pound; powdered
bicarbonate of soda, 11 pounds. Mix thoroughly. Give a tablespoonful daily in
feed; as a preventive, give twice a week.

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Return to transcriber’s notes
Typographic corrections:
impotance —> impotence
corrossve —> corrosive
ounoe —> ounce
herd —> herb
remakable —> remarkable
indellible —> indelible
flower —> flour
childen —> children
tranfer —> transfer
maxing —> making
diciduous —> deciduous
proscrastination —> procrastination
cusiness —> business
flowder —> flower
thiir —> their
examins —> examine
Sprupi —> Syrupi x2
or —> of
natual —> natural
Alluminum —> Aluminum
Morhinæ —> Morphinæ
Potasssii —> Potassii
Potassi —> Potassii
Patassii —> Potassii
Postassii —>Potassii
Brown-Sequard —> Brown-Séquard
geletine —> gelatine
competion —> competition
Leibreich —> Liebreich
destilatæ —> destillatæ
‘ n’ —> ‘in’
‘ nch’ —> ‘inch’
‘ earned’ —> ‘learned’
‘ t’ —> ‘it’
‘ orm’ —> ‘form’
‘nam ’ —> ‘name’
14 —> 41
36 —> 35
20 —> 10

Return to transcriber’s notes

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