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The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Employments of Women:
A Cyclopædia of Woman's Work
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Title: The Employments of Women: A Cyclopædia of Woman's Work

Author: Virginia Penny

Release date: September 8, 2015 [eBook #49912]
Most recently updated: October 24, 2024

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE
EMPLOYMENTS OF WOMEN: A CYCLOPÆDIA OF WOMAN'S
WORK ***

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THE
EMPLOYMENTS OF WOMEN:
A Cyclopædia of Woman's Work.
BY
V I R G I N I A P E N N Y.

BOSTON:
PUBLISHED BY WALKER, WISE, & COMPANY,
245 WASHINGTON STREET.

1863.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1862, by
V I R G I N I A P E N N Y,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York.

TO
WORTHY AND INDUSTRIOUS WOMEN
IN THE UNITED STATES,
STRIVING TO EARN A LIVELIHOOD,
This Book
IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY
THE AUTHOR.

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PREFACE.

It is very easy to obtain book after book on "The Sphere of Woman,"
"The Mission of Woman," and "The Influence of Woman." But to a
practical mind it must be evident that good advice is not sufficient. That is
very well, provided the reader is supplied with the comforts of life. But
plans need to be devised, pursuits require to be opened, by which women
can earn a respectable livelihood. It is the great want of the day. It is in
order to meet that want that this work has been prepared. The few
employments that have been open to women are more than full. To
withdraw a number from the few markets of female labor already crowded
to excess, by directing them to avenues where they are wanted, would
thereby benefit both parties.
At no time in our country's history have so many women been thrown
upon their own exertions. A million of men are on the battle field, and
thousands of women, formerly dependent on them, have lost or may lose
their only support. Some of the mothers, wives, sisters, and daughters of
soldiers, may take the vacancies created in business by their absence—
others must seek new channels of labor.
An exact estimate of woman as she has been, and now is, furnishes a
problem difficult to solve. Biographies and histories merely furnish a clue
to what she has been. Prejudice has exaggerated these portraitures. Woman
as she now is, save in fiction and society, is scarcely known. The future
position of woman is a matter of conjecture only. No mathematical nicety
can be brought to bear upon the subject, for it is one not capable of data.
More particularly is it difficult to define what her future condition in a
business capacity will be. Man will have much to do with it, but woman
more. I know of no work giving a true history of woman's condition in a
business capacity. Socially, morally, mentally, and religiously, she is written

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about; but not as a working, every-day reality, in any other capacity than
that pertaining to home life. It has been to me a matter of surprise that some
one has not presented the subject in a practical way, that would serve as an
index to the opening of new occupations, and present the feasibility of
women engaging in many from which they are now debarred. It is strange
there is no book on the subject, in any language, for it is a world-wide
subject. Its roots are in the very basis of society—its ramifications as
numerous as the nations of the earth—yes, as the individual members of the
human family. The welfare of every man, woman, and child is involved in
the subject. For who is entirely free from female influence—who is devoid
of interest in the sex—who exists free from relationship, or any connection
with woman? There is no man that is not involved in what affects woman,
and the reverse is also true. It should therefore be a subject of paramount
interest to all. Particularly does the subject appeal to the heart of woman. If
she does not need to make a practical use of information on the subject, she
will find its possession no disadvantage. It may assist her, from motives of
friendship, or benevolent feelings, to advise and direct others. Is there any
woman, not entirely devoid of all sensibility, but desires an amelioration in
the condition of the working class of her sex—those who earn a mere
pittance, scarce enough to keep body and soul together?
The work of single women has never been very clearly defined. Those
that are without means are often without any to guide them; and the limited
avenues of employment open to women, and the fear of becoming a burden
on others, have poisoned some of their best hours, and paralyzed some of
their strongest powers. There is a large amount of female talent in the
United States lying dormant for the want of cultivation, and there has been
a large amount cultivated that is not brought into exercise for the want of
definite plans and opportunities of making it available. It exists like an
icicle, and requires the warmth of energy, thought, and independence to
render it useful. It shrinks from forcing itself into notice, like the sensitive
plant, and may live and die unseen and unknown. Widen, then, the theatre
of action and enterprise to woman. Throw open productive fields of labor,
and let her enter.
Of those who speak so bitterly of women engaging in some pursuits now
conducted by men, we would inquire, What would you have destitute single
women and widows do, by which to earn their bread? You surely would not

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have women steal, that cannot obtain employment. What, then, can they do?
Why may they not have free access to callings that will insure them a
support? Those that oppose them, generally do so from selfish motives.
Many men would banish women from the editor's and author's table, from
the store, the manufactory, the workshop, the telegraph office, the printing
case, and every other place, except the school room, sewing table, and
kitchen. The false opinion that exists in regard to the occupations suitable
for women must be changed ere women have free access to all those in
which they may engage. Yet I would love to see thrown open to women the
door of every trade and profession in which they are capable of working.
"Women have not devoted their time and talents to mechanical arts,
except to a very limited extent, and only within fifty years. How then could
they be expected to equal men in proficiency, who have from the creation of
the world been so employed, and who have had the advantage not only of
their own exertions, but the experience of their fathers and forefathers to
profit by? The superior mechanical talent of the United States is becoming
known throughout the civilized world, and some of the work dictated by
that talent is executed by women.
Some persons complain that women would become more material—less
spiritual—if engaged in manual labor. We think not, if it is of a kind suited
to their nature. Contact with the world does not always wear out the
fineness and delicacy that we love in woman. She does not necessarily lose
that softness and gentleness that render her so lovely.
A few women may by nature have a fondness for masculine pursuits; but
the number of men that have from training and circumstances a partiality
for feminine pursuits, is much greater. It has been estimated that there are
95,000 females earning a livelihood in New York city and its vicinity, by
their labor, aside from those engaged in domestic pursuits; and I am
confident there are at least 100,000 men in the same city engaged in
pursuits well adapted to women.
As women become more generally educated, their energies will be
increased—their limits of thought expanded. They will seek employments
consistent with honor and delicacy. They will desire the elevation of their
sex, and do what they can to bring it about, regardless of the shafts of
ridicule sent by selfish men and heartless women.

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"By elevating the standard and augmenting the compensation of woman's
labor," a complete revolution would be wrought in the social and political
standing of woman. Let woman once surmount the difficulties that now
oppose her, and take her stand with dignified reserve, laboring and claiming
what is her right as much as men—free labor and fair wages—and liberal
men will applaud and admire her.
As a friend of my sex, I have made investigations, and obtained statistics
that show the business position of woman at present in the United States. I
present such employments as have been, are, or may be pursued by them,
and give what information I can obtain of each one. I may have omitted a
few, and there may be some that are not yet recognized as a distinct
business. I have made the study a speciality for three years, and spent an
almost incredible amount of labor and money in doing so. I have visited
factories, workshops, offices, and stores, for the purpose of seeing women
at their vocations. I have gone through wind and snow, cold and rain. If I
could have had the time and opportunity, I would have endeavored to see,
also, something of their home-life.
Much of the verbal information I give is impartial, as it has been given by
those with whom I talked in a casual way, they not knowing I had any
object in view; and frequently it was done in a respectful, yet off-hand way,
when making purchases. I have often bought articles merely for an excuse
to talk with people, and gain information on their occupations.
I desire to present to those interested a clear and succinct view of the
condition of business in the United States, the openings for entering into
business, the vacancies women may fill and the crowded marts they may
avoid, the qualifications needed for a selected pursuit, and the pursuits to
which they are best adapted; also the probable result pecuniarily of each
calling honorably pursued: in short, it is intended as a business manual for
women. I wish to make it a practical work—useful, not ornamental. It is
more a bringing together of facts, than a presentation of ideas—more a
book of research than reflection. Yet the statements given are important, not
merely as facts, but as being suggestive of things essential to or connected
with occupations. The limits of each subject must necessarily be short, as I
wish to form a volume to come within the reach of every one that would
desire a copy.

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Any female who has in view the learning of any occupation mentioned in
this book, would do well to go and see the process before making
arrangements to that effect. And she should exercise her own judgment in
making a practical use of that information. Many pursuits are now followed
by women for which it was once thought they were incapable.
My book is not sectional in its feelings. It is intended to benefit women
of the North, South, East, and West of this vast Republic. In the large cities
of the North, most working women are acquainted with others engaged in
different occupations, and so may learn of places to be filled in them. In the
South, a smaller number of women have been dependent on their own
exertions, owing to the existence of slave-labor, and the comparative
smallness of immigration.
I strongly advocate the plan of every female having a practical
knowledge of some occupation by which to earn a livelihood. How do men
fare that are raised without being fitted for any trade or profession,
particularly those in the humbler walks of life? They become our most
common and ill-paid laborers. So it is with woman's work. If a female is not
taught some regular occupation by which to earn a living, what can she do,
when friends die, and she is without means? Even the labor that offers to
men, situated as she is, is not at her disposal.
No reproach should be cast upon any honest employment. The dignity
and value of labor in the most menial occupation is superior to idleness or
dependence upon others for the requirements of life. What destitute but
industrious woman would not be glad to earn for herself a snug little
cottage, to which she may resort in her old age, from the cares and conflicts
of life; to enjoy the independence of a competency, earned by remunerative
and well-applied labor?
I will not be responsible for all the opinions advanced by those who have
furnished me with information. The reader will often have to form her own
deductions from the statements made. My work may not accomplish, by a
great deal, the end proposed, but I hope it may be the means of securing, by
honest industry, a livelihood to many now dependent and desponding. If it
does not in itself accomplish any visible good, it may be the means of
bringing forward some better method by which the desired end may be
effected. It may perhaps impart information by which the philanthropic may

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best employ their time and means in advancing the welfare of others, by
pointing out the wants of dependent women, and how best to meet those
wants. It may open the way of usefulness to women of leisure and talents. If
it saves any of my sex from an aimless and profitless life, I will feel that
something has been done. In that way some may be kept from despair and
sin. And it is certainly better to prevent evil than to cure it. Some have
means, and if a plan were presented to them, they would engage in its
execution.
Connected with this subject is a fervent desire on the part of the writer to
see houses of protection and comfort provided in our cities for respectable
and industrious women when out of employment. Wealthy, benevolent
people might build them, and appropriations be granted by the cities in
which they are planted. Such a structure in each of our cities and towns
would be a refuge to the weary, a home to the oppressed, a sanctuary to the
stranger in a strange land.
When the place of gaining information is not mentioned in this work, it
will be understood that New York city was the place. It will be remembered
that most of the information was obtained from October, 1859, to February,
1861.
I hope much anxiety of mind, and uncertainty in the selection of a
pursuit, will be prevented by my book, and many precious hours thereby
saved for active, cheerful employment. If there should seem to be a want of
practicability in any of the subjects I have treated upon, I think, after some
reflection, it will disappear. Some of the employments presented may not
find encouragement and proper compensation until our country becomes
older, and calls for more variety in labor. I hope I may not hold out any
unreasonable expectations of employment, or excite any hope that may not
be realized. My ideas may appear vague and indefinite to some, but even
such may perhaps pick out a few grains from the pile of chaff. But we must
be doing, not saying—moving, not sitting—accomplishing something, not
folding our hands in indolent ease. The active, restless spirit that pervades
our people calls for action. It will not do to rest passive and let events take
their own course. The progress of the age calls for earnest labor.

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INTRODUCTION.
The great, urgent, universal wants of mankind, in all classes of society,
are food, clothing, shelter, and fuel. After these come the comforts and
luxuries pertaining to the condition of those in easy circumstances. Above
and beyond these animal wants, but of nearly equal importance, are those
relating to the mind—written and printed matter, oral instructions, as
lectures and sermons, and the handiwork of the fine arts. These, in addition
to health, freedom, and friends, comprise the greatest blessings man enjoys.
I would add that the means of transit are necessary to make him entirely
independent. Nearly all honest occupations are founded on these wants; but
they have been divided and subdivided until their name is legion.
The contents of this volume might be arranged in the same way that the
articles exhibited in the Crystal Palace of London were, under the heads—
Producer, Importer, Manufacturer, Designer, Inventor, and Proprietor. But
we think the arrangement pursued, though rather irregular, may be quite as
convenient. So great is the variety of subjects treated, that it is difficult to
condense the contents in a smaller compass.
The general difference in character and habits of those engaged in
various occupations—their comparative morality and intelligence, the
effects of a decline in wages, the effects of trades-unions, are all, more or
less, involved in this subject of employments; also the opinions of the
working classes on machinery and its results. Employments that have for
their object the health, comfort, and protection of mankind—those that
produce the necessaries and the luxuries of life—those for amusement and
capable of being dispensed with—are all treated of to some extent.
Numbers of women have been lost to society from the want of a
systematic organization for their employment, and by a deficiency in the
number of remunerative pursuits open to them. The destinies of thousands
are daily perilled, mentally, morally, and physically, by the same cause. The
disease has raised a great and turbulent cry; but, strange to say, few means,
and they limited and inefficient, have been used as a cure. Indeed, a remedy
has scarcely been devised. To open new and suitable occupations to women,

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and secure for them fair wages, would, I believe, be an effectual mode of
relief. But to bring about a favorable change, not only must more
occupations be opened to women, but, as Mr. Walker says, "employments
of an equally indispensable character with those of the other sex." Many
persons would be surprised to find the large number of people employed in
such occupations as pertain only to civilized life—such as could be
dispensed with in an emergency; and the small number employed in such
occupations as really furnish us with the necessaries of life. In the first
class, aside from those engaged in domestic duties and labors, the majority
of women are employed.
In the selection of a pursuit, it would be well to take into consideration
what occupations are most likely to increase in this country. Those
absolutely necessary for the preservation of life are permanent. Those
essential to the health and comfort of mankind must be pursued by some.
The steadiness of employment the year round should also be considered.
Another item is the danger attending a trade, and the effects of the
occupation on the health of the individual. A better compensation should be
given to those prosecuting either a dangerous or unhealthy pursuit. There is
at present more danger of women suffering from either an excess of work,
or the entire want of it, than from any peculiarity pertaining to an
occupation. A matter of some importance is the ability of an individual to
furnish herself with the implements of a trade, goods for merchandizing, or
the appurtenances of a profession, if she intends to conduct business on her
own responsibility and at her own expense. If she has friends to advance her
the money, she might perhaps make an arrangement to refund as she
advances in business.
It is a matter of doubt with us whether the labors of women are on an
average less laborious than those of men. That they are generally performed
indoors, is not saying anything in their favor as regards health. If we include
domestic employments, we cannot say they are neater on an average. They
may be better adapted to the constitution of the female sex, but the question
arises, Are those in which women now engage, except domestic duties,
more congenial to their taste, more acceptable to their feelings, more likely
to develop their mental powers, and rightly direct their moral nature, than
many others in which they might engage?

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We find that the class of workers, both men and women, having the most
steady employments, are the most steady and reliable people.
There are some employments in which it is well for a man and his wife to
unite, as bankers, picture restorers, house painters, &c.
There is probably as much diversity in the abilities of individual men to
acquire a trade, as in those of women. We doubt not but women, generally,
are as capable of acquiring a knowledge of any vocation as men, if they
spend as much time and application in doing so. Could not women learn
those occupations quite as thoroughly that require of men an apprenticeship
of three, five, or seven years, if they could give the same time? We are
confident the majority of women could, particularly those who have had
equal advantages in the way of education and society with men engaged in
the same pursuit.
We think the time spent in acquiring a knowledge of different
occupations is not at all proportioned to the variety of work and the skill
required for proficiency in each. For instance, an occupation that could be
learned in six months, must have three years' labor given; while an
occupation that it requires twenty years to excel in, has the usual
apprenticeship of three years. By the way, could not the most of those
pursuits now requiring three years' time of serving be mastered in a shorter
period?
Supply and demand must ever regulate, to a great extent, the wages of
women as well as men. We think, in the different departments of woman's
labor, both physical and mental, there exists a want of harmony of labor
done and the compensation; also, between the time given and the
occupation. For instance, a gilder in a bookbindery gets $6 a week, or $1 a
day of ten hours, which is equal to ten cents an hour. A girl, at most
mechanical employments, receives, for her sixty hours' labor, $3 a week,
which is equal to five cents an hour. A cook, who requires as much
preparation as either, for ninety hours' labor will receive her board and
washing, say $2, and $2 a week as wages, $4, equal to four and a half cents
an hour. Confectioners' girls, in some of the best establishments in New
York, spend seventeen, and some even eighteen hours, attending to their
duties, and receive only $2, and board and washing, $4.50, equal to two and

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a half cents an hour. Some seamstresses sew fifteen hours a day, and earn
but thirty cents, equal to two cents an hour, without board.
Where there are discrepancies about the seasons for any particular kind
of work, as given by different parties, it will usually be found to arise from
some of the number being engaged in the wholesale business, selling to
people from the South and West; others selling to city traders, or retail
merchants selling to city customers.
When there is a repetition of statements on the same subject, it will be
observed that it arises from the information being given by different
individuals.
I have used the words girl and woman indiscriminately, except when
mention is made of the age of the girls.
I would take this opportunity of returning my thanks to all who have been
so kind as to furnish me with any information, or directed me how to obtain
it.
Some errors will no doubt be observed by persons in their special
branches of labor. By writing to the author, attention will hereafter be paid
to the correction of such errors.

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NATURE OF THE CONTENTS.
This work contains five hundred and thirty-three articles, more than five
hundred of which are descriptions of the occupations in which women are,
or may be engaged—the effect of each on the health—the rate of wages
paid for those carried on in the United States—a comparison in the prices of
male and female labor of the same kind—the length of time required to
learn the business fully, and the time required to learn the part done by
women—whether women are paid while learning—the qualifications
needed—the prospect of future employment in each branch—the seasons
best for work, and if in any season the women are thrown entirely out of
work—the usual number of hours employed, and, if the working time
exceeds ten hours, whether it could be shortened without serious loss of
profit—and the comparative superiority or inferiority of women to men in
each branch. Also, openings in the Southern States for certain branches of
business—the prices of board for workwomen, and the remarks of
employers—with a list of the occupations suitable for the afflicted. In
addition are articles on unusual employments in the United States, England,
France, and other countries—minor employments in the United States,
England, and France. Also, a notice of the occupations in which no women
are engaged in any country—those in which none are engaged in this
country—those in which very few are engaged.

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HEADS OF SUBJECTS.
Professional Women. Artists. Those in Mercantile Pursuits.
Employments pertaining to Grain, Birds, Flowers, Fruits, and Vegetables.
Raisers, Makers, Preparers, and Disposers of Articles of Food. Textile
Manufacturers—Cotton, Linen, Woollen, Silk, Lace. Metal Manufacturers
—Iron, Brass, Steel, Copper, Tin, Britannia, Silver, Silver Plating, Bronze,
Gold. Miscellaneous Workers on Indian Goods, Inkstands, Lithoconia,
Marble, Mineral Door-Knobs, Paper Cutting, Papier Maché, Pipes,
Porcelain, Pottery, Stucco Work, Terra Cotta, and Transferring on Wood.
Glass Manufacturers. China Decorators. Leather Manufacturers. Whalebone
Workers. Brush Manufacturers. Ivory Cutters. Pearl Workers. Tortoise-Shell
Workers. Gum-Elastic Manufacturers. Gutta-Percha Manufacturers. Hair
Workers. Willow Ware. Wood Work. Agents. Manufacturers, and Colorers
of Ladies' Apparel. Fitters, Cutters, and Sewers of Ladies' and Children's
Wear. Upholsterers. Manufacturers of Books, Ink, Paper, and Pencils.
Chemicals. Those who serve as a Communicating Medium between
Employers and others. Those that contribute to the Comfort or Amusement
of others. Mistresses and Domestics. Miscellaneous Occupations.
Employments for the Afflicted. Unusual Employments. Minor
Employments. Occupations in which no Women are engaged, &c. Openings
in the South for certain branches of business. Prices of Board for
Workwomen, and Remarks of Employers. Number of Work Hours. Extracts
from the Census Report of 1860. Industrial Statistics of Paris.

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CONTENTS.
PAGE
Professional Women.
1. Amanuenses, 1
2. Astronomers, 1
3. Authors, 2
4. Bankers and Clerks, 7
5. Bible Readers, 5
6. Brokers, 8
7. Colonizationists, 9
8. Colportors, 9
9. Copyists, 10
10. Deaconesses, 11
11. Dentists, 14
12. Editresses, 14
13. Government Clerks, 16
14. Lawyers, 17
15. Lecturers, 18
16. Librarians, 19
17. Magazine Contributors, 21
18. Missionaries, 22
19. Medical Missionaries, 23
20. Physicians, 24
21. Preachers, 30
22. Proof Readers, 30
23. Publishers, 31
24. Readers to the Working Classes, 32
25. Reporters, 33
26. Reviewers, 34

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27. Teachers, 36
28. Bookkeeping, 39
29. Calisthenics and Dancing, 41
30. Drawing and Painting, 41
31. Fancy Work, 42
32. Horsemanship, 42
33. Infant Schools, 43
34. Languages, 44
35. Music, 44
36. Navigation, 45
37. Swimming, 45
38. Translators, 45

Artists.
39. Actresses, 47
40. Aquaria Makers, 50
41. Architects, 51
42. Cameo Cutters, 52
43. Copperplate Engravers, 53
44. Daguerreans, 53
45. Design, Schools of, 55
46. Designers (Miscellaneous), 59
47. Calico Prints, 60
48. Wall Paper, 61
49. Draughtswomen, 61
50. Employés in the United States Mint, 61
51. Engravers and Chasers of Gold and Silver, 62
52. Equestrians and Gymnasts, 64
53. Etchers and Stamp Cutters, 65
54. Herbarium Makers, 65
55. Lapidaries, 66
56. Landscape Gardeners, 67

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57. Lithographers, 68
58. Map Makers, 71
59. Medallists, 73
60. Modellers, 73
61. Modellers of Wax Figures, 74
62. Mineral Labellers, 75
63. Musicians, 75
64. Music Engravers, 77
65. Opera Performers, 77
66. Painters, 79
67. Animals, 81
68. Banners, 81
69. Crayon and Pastel, 81
70. Flowers and Fruit, 82
71. Fresco, 82
72. Historical, 82
73. Landscape, 82
74. Marine, 83
75. Miniature, 83
76. Panorama, 84
77. Portrait, 84
78. Water Colors, 85
79. Painters of Dial Plates, 85
80. Picture Restorers, 85
81. Piano Tuners, 86
82. Plaster Statuary, 87
83. Painters of Plates for Books, 88
84. Photographers, 90
85. Preparers of Scientific Plates, 94
86. Seal Engravers, 94
87. Sculptors, 94
88. Steel and other Engravers, 96

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89. Bank Note, 97
90. Card, 98
91. Door Plate, 98
92. Map, 98
93. Pictorial and Heraldry, 99
94. Telegraph Operators, 100
95. Vocalists, 102
96. Wax Work, 102
97. Wood Engravers, 103

Mercantile Pursuits.
98. Merchants, 104
99. Bookkeepers, 106
100. Book Merchants, 108
101. China Merchants, 109
102. Clothiers, 110
103. Curiosity Dealers, 115
104. Druggists and Clerks, 115
105. Keepers of Fancy Stores, 119
106. Gentlemen's Furnishing Stores, 119
107. Furniture Sellers, 120
108. Grocers, 121
109. Junk Dealers, 122
110. Music Sellers, 122
111. Sellers of Artists' Materials, 123
112. Seeds, Roots, and Herbs, 124
113. Small Wares, 124
114. Tobacco, Snuff, and Cigars, 125
115. Saleswomen, 125
116. Street Sellers, 131
117. Toy Merchants, 134
118. Wall Paper, 134

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119. Worn Clothes, 134
120. Variety Shops, 136

Employments pertaining to Grain, Birds, Flowers, Fruits, and
Vegetables.
121. Agriculturists, 136
122. Bee Dealers, 137
123. Bird Importers and Raisers, 137
124. Bird and Animal Preservers, 138
125. Florists, 140
126. Flower Girls, 142
127. Fruit Growers, 142
128. Fruit Venders, 143
129. Gardeners, 144
130. Makers of Cordial, &c., 144
131. Root, Bark, and Seed Sellers, 145
132. Seed Envelopers and Herb Packers, 145
133. Sellers of Pets, 147
134. Wine Manufacturers and Grape Growers, 147

Raisers, Makers, Preparers, and Disposers of Articles of Food.
135. Bakers (Bread), 148
136. Brewers, 150
137. Candy Manufacturers, 150
138. Cheese Makers, 152
139. Coffee and Chocolate Packers, 153
140. Cracker Bakers, 154
141. Fancy Confectionery, 154
142. Fish women, 158
143. Macaroni, 159
144. Maple Sugar, 159
145. Market Women, 159

Page 22

146. Meat Sellers, 161
147. Milk Sellers and Dairy Women, 162
148. Mince Meat, Apple Butter, &c., 163
149. Mustard Packers, 164
150. Oyster Sellers, 164
151. Pie Bakers, 164
152. Picklers of Oysters, 166
153. Poulterers, 166
154. Restaurant Keepers, 167
155. Sealed Provisions, 168
156. Sugar Boilers, 170
157. Tea Packers, 170
158. Vermicelli, 171
159. Vinegar, 171
160. Yeast, 172

Textile Manufactures.
161. Cotton Manufacture, 172
162. Batting and Wadding, 175
163. Calicoes, 175
164. Canton Flannel, 176
165. Carpet Chains, 176
166. Cord, 177
167. Dyers, 177
168. Factory Operatives, 180
169. Gingham, 183
170. Hose, 184
171. Men's Wear, 186
172. Print Works, 186
173. Spinners, 189
174. Spool Cotton, 189
175. Tape, 190

Page 23

176. Weavers, 190
177. Linen Manufacture, 191
178. Thread, 193
179. Woollen Manufacture, 194
180. Blankets, 195
181. Carpets, 195
182. Carpet Bags, 196
183. Cassimeres, 197
184. Cloths, 198
185. Coverlets, 201
186. Dry-Goods Refinishers, 201
187. Flannels, 201
188. Gloves, 203
Woollen, 205
189. Linseys, 205
190. Shawls, 207
191. Shoddy, 207
192. Yarn, 207
193. Silk Manufacture, 208
194. Ribbons, 209
195. Sewing Silk, 210
196. Lace Manufacture, 211
197. " Menders, 212
198. Hair Cloth Manufacture, 213

Metal Manufactures.
199. Iron Manufacture, 214
200. Files, 215
201. Guns, 215
202. Hinges, 215

Page 24

203. Locks, 216
204. Nails, 217
205. Rivets, 217
206. Screws, 217
207. Skates, 218
208. Shovels, 218
209. Wire Workers, 218
Brass Manufacture, 219
210. Candlesticks, 219
211. Hooks and Eyes, 220
212. Lamps, 221
213. Pins, 221
214. Rings, 223
215. Scales, 223
216. Stair Rods, 224
217. Steel Manufacture, 224
218. Buckles, 224
219. Edge Tools, 225
220. Electrical Machines, 226
221. Fire Arms, 226
222. Knives and Forks, 226
223. Needles, 227
224. Pens, 228
225. Philosophical Apparatus, 229
226. Saws, 230
227. Scissors, 230
228. Spectacles, 230
229. Surgical Instruments, 232
230. Telescopes, 232
231. Thermometers, 232
232. Copper Manufacture, 232

Page 25

233. Tin Manufacture, 233
234. Lanterns, 233
235. Britannia Ware, 234
236. Silver Manufacture, 234
237. Burnishers, 234
238. Thimbles, 236
239. Silver Plating, 237
240. Bronze Manufacture, 237
241. Gold Manufacture, 237
242. Assayers, 238
243. Enamellers, 238
244. Gold and Silver Leaf, 239
245. Jewellers' Findings, 240
246. Pencils, 241
247. Pens, 241
248. Watches, 242
249. Watch-Case Polishers, 244
250. Watch Chains, 246
251. Watch Jewels, 248

Miscellaneous Works. 248
252. Indian Goods, 248
253. Inkstands, 248
254. Lithoconia, 249
255. Marble Workers, 249
256. Mineral Door-Knobs, 250
257. Paper Cutters, 250
258. Papier-Maché Finishers, 250
259. Pipes, 251
260. Porcelain, 251

Page 26

261. Pottery, 252
262. Stucco Work, 253
263. Terra Cotta, 253
264. Transferrers on Wood, 253

265. Glass Manufacture. 253
266. Blowers, 255
267. Beads, 255
268. Cutters, 256
269. Embossers, 256
270. Enamellers, 256
271. Engravers, 257
272. Painters, 257
273. Stainers, 258
274. Watch Crystals, 259

275. China Decorators and Burnishers. 260

276. Leather. 261
277. Currying, 262
278. Harnesses, 262
279. Jewel and Instrument Cases, 263
280. Morocco Sewers, 263
281. Pocket Books, 264
282. Saddle Seats, 265
283. Tanning, 265
284. Trunks, 266
285. Whips, 266

286. Whalebone Workers. 267

287. Brush Manufacturers. 268

Page 27

288. Ivory Cutters and Workers. 269
289. Combs, 271
290. Piano Keys, 271
291. Rulers (Paper), 272

292. Pearl Workers. 273

293. Tortoise-Shell Workers. 273

294. Gum-Elastic Manufacture. 274
295. Men's Clothing, 276
296. Shoes, 276
297. Toys, 276

298. Gutta Percha Manufacture. 277

299. Hair Workers. 277
299. Artists, 277
300. Dressers, 278
301. Dyers, 280
302. Growers, 281
303. Manufacturers, 281
304. Merchants, 281

305. Willow Ware. 282

Wood Work.
306. Carvers, 284
307. Kindling Wood, 285
308. Pattern Makers, 286
309. Rattan Splitters, 286
310. Cigar Boxes, 286
311. Turners, 287

Page 28

Agents.
312. Express and other Conveyances, 287
313. General, 288
314. Literary, Book, and Newspaper, 289
315. Mercantile, 291
316. Pens, 291
317. Sewing Machines, 291
318. School, 292
319. Telegraph Instruments, 292
320. Washing Machines, 292

Manufacturers and Colorers of Ladies' Apparel.
321. Artificial Flowers, 292
322. Belts, 295
323. Bonnet Ruches, 295
324. Dress Trimmings, 296
325. Embroidery, 298
326. Feathers, 300
327. Hoop Skirts, 301
328. Muslin Sets, 304
329. Parasols and Umbrellas, 305
330. Sempstresses, 308
331. Sewing Machine Operatives, 310

Fur Workers.
332. Dyers, 312
333. Sewers, 312

Fitters, Cutters, and Sewers of Ladies' and Children's Wear.
334. Bonnets, 314
335. Bonnet Frames, 319
336. Bonnet Wire, 320

Page 29

337. Children's Clothes, 321
338. Cloaks and Mantillas, 321
339. Costumes, 323
340. Dresses, 324
341. Dress Caps and Headdresses, 326
342. Fans, 328
343. Ladies' Under Wear, 329
344. Over Gaiters, 330
345. Patterns of Ladies' and Children's Clothes, 330
346. Shoes, 331
347. Stays, 334

Straw Workers.
348. Bleachers and Pressers, 335
349. Braiders, 336
350. Sewers, 337

Renovators.
351. Gentlemen's Wear, 339
352. Ladies' Wear, 340

Gentlemen's Clothing.
353. Army and Navy Uniform, 340
354. Buttons, 340
355. Canes, 342
356. Caps, 342
357. Coats, 345
358. Cravats, 345
359. Hats (Hat Braiders, 349), 345
360. Oil Clothing, 350
361. Pantaloons, 350
362. Regalias, 350

Page 30

363. Shirts, 350
364. Suspenders, 354
365. Tailoresses, 355
366. Vests, 356

367. Upholsterers. 357
368. Beds, 358
369. Carpets, 358
370. Curled Hair Pullers, 359
371. Curtain Trimmings, 359
372. Furniture Goods, 360
373. Mattresses, 360
374. Venetian Blinds, 361
375. Window Shades, 361

Manufacturers of Books, Ink, Paper, and Pencils.
376. Book Folders, 363
377. Book Sewers, 365
378. Card Makers, 367
379. Card Stencillers, 369
380. Cover and Edge Gilders, 370
381. Electrotypers, 370
382. Envelope Makers, 370
383. Folders and Directors of Newspapers, 372
384. Ink, 373
385. Label Cutters, 373
386. Lead Pencils, 374
387. Operatives in Paper Factories, 374
388. Paper Bag Makers, 376
389. Box Makers, 376
390. Marblers, 379
391. Rulers, 379

Page 31

392. Press Feeders, 380
393. Printers, 380
394. Sealing-Wax Makers, 385
395. Stereotypers, 385
396. Type Rubbers and Setters, 386
397. Wall-Paper Gilders, 387

398. Chemicals. 389
399. Baking Powder, 390
400. Bar Soap, 390
401. Blacking, 390
402. Candles, 391
403. Chalk, 392
404. Emery Paper, 392
405. Fancy Soap, 392
406. Fire Works, 392
407. Flavoring Extracts, 393
408. Glue, 394
409. Gunpowder, 394
410. Oils, 394
411. Paints, 394
412. Patent Medicines, 395
413. Pearlash, 395
414. Perfumery, 395
415. Quinine, 397
416. Salt, 397
417. Soda, 399
418. Starch, 399
419. White Lead, 400
420. Whiting, 400

Communicating Mediums between Employers and Others.

Page 32

421. Assistants in Benevolent Institutions, 400
422. Commissioners of Deeds, 402
423. Housekeepers, 402
424. Keepers of Intelligence Offices, 403
425. Lighthouse Keepers, 405
426. Pawnbrokers, 406
427. Postmistresses, 407
428. Sewing-Machine Instructors, 408
429. Shepherdesses, 409
430. Toll Collectors, 409

Contributors to the Comfort or Amusement of Others.
431. Bathhouse Attendants, 409
432. Brace and Truss Makers, 410
433. Chiropodists, 411
434. Cuppers and Leechers, 413
435. Fishing-Tackle Preparers, 413
436. Fortune Tellers, 415
437. Guides and Door Attendants, 415
438. Lodging and Boarding House Keepers, 415
439. Makers of Artificial Eyes, 416
440. Limbs, 418
441. Teeth, 418
442. Nurses for the Sick, 419
443. Steamboat and Railroad Newsvenders, 421
444. Street Musicians, 421
445. Tavern Keepers, 422
446. Travelling Companions, 423

Mistresses and Domestics.
447. Mistresses, 423
448. Domestics, 424

Page 33

449. Chambermaids, 426
450. Cooks, 428
451. Dining-Room Waiters, 429
452. Ladies' Maids, 430
453. Nurses for Children, 430
454. Saloon Attendants, 431
455. Washers, Ironers, and Manglers, 431

Miscellaneous Occupations, and Workers therein.
456. Backgammon-Board Finishers, 433
457. Balloon Makers, 433
458. Billiard-Table Finishers, 434
459. Bill Posters, 434
460. Block Cutters, 434
461. Boatwomen, 435
462. Bone Collectors, 435
463. Bottlers and Labellers, 435
465. Broom Makers, 436
464. Bronzers, 436
466. Canvas and Cotton Bag Makers, 437
467. Car and Carriage Painters, 438
468. Carriage Trimmers, 489
469. Chair Seaters, 440
470. China Menders, 441
471. Cigar Makers, 442
472. Cigar-End Finders, 444
473. Cinder Gatherers, 444
474. Clear Starchers, 444
475. Clock Makers, 444
476. Clothes-Pin Makers, 445
477. Clothes Repairers, 445
478. Cork Assorters and Sole Stitchers, 445

Page 34

479. Daguerreotype Apparatus, 446
480. Feather Dressers, 447
481. Flag Makers, 447
482. Furniture Painters, 448
483. Gilders of Mirror Frames, 449
484. Globe Makers, 450
485. Hobby-Horse Finishers, 450
486. Horse Coverings, 451
487. House Painters, 452
488. Japanners, 452
489. Knitters, 454
490. Lace Bleachers, 457
491. Lacquerers, 458
492. Life Preservers, 458
493. Lucifer Matches, 458
494. Mat Makers, 460
495. Manufacturers of Musical Instruments, 460
Melodeons and Organs, 461
Pianos, 462
Seraphines, 463
496. Musical-String Makers, 463
497. Netters, 464
498. Oakum Pickers, 464
499. Paper Hangers, 465
500. Polishers, 465
501. Pin Finders, 465
502. Rag Cutters, 465
503. Rag Gatherers, 466
504. Rope and Twine Makers, 468
505. Sail and Awning Makers, 470
506. Shoe-Peg Makers, 470
507. Shroud Makers, 470

Page 35

508. Sign Painters, 471
509. Snuff Packers, 472
510. Stencil Makers, 473
511. Street Sweepers, 473
512. Tip Gilders, 473
513. Tobacco Strippers, 474
514. Toy Makers, 475
515. Varnishers and Varnish Makers, 476
516. Water Carriers, 476

Employments for the Afflicted.
517. Blind Women, 477
518. Deaf Mutes, 477
519. The Lame, 477

Unusual Employments.
520. United States, 477
521. England, 478
522. France, 481
523. Other Countries, 482

Minor Employments.
524. United States, 484
525. England, 484
526. France, 485

527. Occupations in which no Women are Engaged. 486
528. None in the United States, 486
529. Very few, 486
530. Openings in the South for certain branches of business, 487
531. Price of Board for Workwomen, and Remarks of Employers, 488
532. Number of Work Hours, 489

Page 36

532. Extracts from Census Report of 1860, in advance of 490
publication,

Industrial Statistics of Paris.
France, in 1848, 492

THE EMPLOYMENTS OF WOMEN.

Page 37

PROFESSIONAL, LITERARY, AND SCIENTIFIC
PURSUITS.

1. Amanuenses.

Amanuenses are employed to write from dictation, generally by authors.
Prescott, who was nearly blind for several years, employed one or more.
Editors whose papers have an extensive circulation, sometimes require the
services of an amanuensis. Female secretaries, or writers out of books, were
not unusual in Rome. "Origen," says Eusebius, "had not only young men,
but young women to transcribe his works, which they did with peculiar
neatness." Some persons in London (whose employment, perhaps, scarcely
brings them under this title, yet we know not where else to place them)
make it a business to write letters for beggars, for which they are paid a
small sum by each applicant. Amanuenses are usually employed by the
week, month, or year. Some education is of course necessary, and will
doubtless influence their pay. Experience increases their value still more;
and those who have to exercise their brains, are of course best paid. I have
been told by competent authority, that amanuenses are usually paid
according to agreement; that authors of distinction can afford to pay a good
price, and that the most common salary is $600.

2. Astronomers.

Maria Cunitz is mentioned as an astronomer of the seventeenth century in
Germany. Miss Caroline Herschel discovered two moons and several
comets. Miss Maria Mitchell, of Nantucket, Mass., discovered a new planet,
and received, in consequence, a medal from the King of Denmark. She
formerly observed for the Coast Survey, but was not officially recognized.
She computes for the Nautical Almanac. She writes: "I know of no lady
astronomers who are practical observers. Very good works have been

Page 38

written on the subject by women. An observing room is never warmed by a
fire; and as a small part, at least, of the roof must be opened to the air, the
exposure is according to the weather, as the observations must be made in
clear evenings. I do not consider the danger to the health great. I know of no
way in which astronomical observations can be made to pay women. They
could, without doubt, make better observers than men, with the same
amount of practice. The same delicacy of touch and of perception that
makes them good at the needle, would make them efficient in the delicate
manipulations of the micrometer. But I know of no man well paid as an
observer only. There are always volunteer candidates in this department of
an observatory. Women can make as good computations as men, and do
their work more neatly; but here, also, the field is occupied by men,
although, I think, never as volunteers without pay. I have no doubt many of
the computations professedly made by men, are really the work of women
employed as assistants. This has always been the case in the long and
tedious computations made for astronomical objects in the early efforts of
the science. My own observatory is wholly a private affair, and supported
entirely by my own means, which are my daily earnings as computer to the
Nautical Almanac. I employ no assistant." I am happy to say Miss Mitchell
receives the same salary for the observations and reckonings of the Nautical
Almanac that would be given to a man. In 1856, at the Smithsonian
Institute, a paper was read by Professor Foote, on the heat of the sun's rays;
after which a paper by Mrs. Foote was read by Professor Henry, giving an
account of experiments made by herself on the same subject. Miss Harriet
Bouvier (now Mrs. Peterson) has written a very good work on astronomy
for schools. Mrs. Somerville, a distinguished astronomer of England, has
added much information to the science by her discoveries. "Miss Anne
Sheepshanks, sister to the late astronomer, has been elected a fellow of the
Astronomical Society."

3. Authors.

Many superior works of fiction have been written by ladies of America,
some of which have been translated into the languages of Europe and
introduced into those countries. Many of our fair countrywomen have

Page 39

distinguished themselves by their poetical effusions, and quite a number
have published their poems in book form. Mrs. Everett Green, author of the
"Lives of the Princesses of England," is now employed by the English
Government upon state papers. Research into historical data, and the nice,
careful arrangement of details, are well fitted to the patience of woman.
Several years ago, Queen Victoria granted to Mrs. Gore and Mrs. Jamieson
each $1,000 a year as pensions. These are not by any means the only
instances of her liberality to literary women. During the year ending
January, 1860, she granted pensions to thirteen ladies, either for literary
merit of their own or that of some relative. The French Academy awarded to
Madame Louisa Collet, in 1851, the prize of $1,000 for poetry; also one to
Mlle. Ernestine Druet, a governess in a school at Paris. Mlle. Royer
received the prize, a short time ago, from the University of Lausanne, for a
philosophical essay. The labor of authors is not rewarded as well as other
kinds of intellectual labor of the same extent: for instance, a physician or
lawyer, with the same abilities, amount of learning, and application, would
derive a greater reward pecuniarily. In the United States an author can retain
the profits of his work a certain number of years, being at liberty to make
any arrangement with his publisher he sees proper. In France and Russia he
possesses the profits arising from the sale of his work during his life, and
his heirs receive them during twenty years. The following is an extract from
H. C. Carey's article on the Rewards of Authorship: "Mr. Irving stands, I
imagine, at the head of living authors for the amount received for his books.
The sums paid to the renowned Peter Parley must have been enormously
great; but what has been their extent, I have no means of ascertaining. Mr.
Mitchell, the geographer, has realized a handsome fortune from his school
books. Professor Davies is understood to have received more than $50,000
from the series published by him. The Abbotts, Emerson, and numerous
other authors engaged in the preparation of books for young persons and
schools, are largely paid. Professor Anthon, we are informed, has received
more than $60,000 for his series of classics. The French series of Mr.
Bolmar has yielded him upward of $20,000. The school geography of Mr.
Morse is stated to have yielded more than $20,000 to its author. A single
medical book, of one octavo volume, is understood to have produced its
authors $60,000, and a series of medical books has given its author
probably $30,000. Mr. Downing's receipts from his books must have been

Page 40

very large. The two works of Miss Warner must have already yielded her
from $12,000 to $15,000, and perhaps as much more. Mr. Headley is stated
to have received about $40,000; and the few books of Ik Marvel have
yielded him about $20,000. A single one, 'The Reveries of a Bachelor,'
produced $4,000 in the first six months. Mrs. Stowe has been very largely
paid. Miss Leslie's cookery and recipe books have paid her $12,000. Dr.
Barnes is stated to have received more than $30,000 for the copyright of his
religious works. Fanny Fern has probably received not less than $6,000 for
the duodecimo volume published but six months since. Mr. Prescott was
stated, several years since, to have received $90,000 from his books, and I
have never seen it contradicted. According to the rate of compensation
generally understood to be received by Mr. Bancroft, the present sale of
each volume yields him more than $15,000, and he has the long period of
forty-two years for future sale. Judge Story died, as has been stated, in the
annual receipt of more than $8,000, and the amount has not, as it is
understood, diminished. Mr. Webster's works in three years can scarcely
have paid less than $25,000. Kent's 'Commentaries' are understood to have
yielded to their author and his heirs more than $120,000; and if we add to
this, for the remainder of the period, only one half of this sum, we shall
obtain $180,000, or $45,000 as the compensation for a single octavo
volume—a reward for literary labor unexampled in history." It is necessary
that the reader, in considering the figures given, remember that the
reputation of an author has much to do with the price paid by a publisher for
manuscripts. The number of women authors is much greater than one
unacquainted with the statistics in regard to the subject would suppose. "In
1847 Count Leopold Feni died at Padua, leaving a library entirely
composed of works written by women in various languages, the number of
volumes amounting to nearly thirty-two thousand. Whether the English and
American lady writers were included in his list we do not know, but we
wish some woman of taste and fortune, in our country, would make a
similar collection." It is said that two thirds of the writers in Chambers'
Edinburgh Journal are women. Some of the writers of our best periodicals
are women. The success of women in works of fiction is unquestioned. This
class of books requires less time, less study, and less money, and rewards
the authors pecuniarily better than any other kind of work, considering, of
course, the comparatively small amount of application required. As the

Page 41

females of our land become more generally educated, and have more leisure
for the cultivation of their minds, no doubt more attention will be devoted
to literary effort. The easy, natural manner of female authors is a marked
feature. Different motives prompt to authorship—love of fame, wealth,
influence, and a desire to do good. Persons are generally prompted to write
by feeling that they know more of some particular subject than most people,
or something entirely unknown or unthought of by any one save
themselves. Some collect and arrange information obtained from books,
observation, or experience, or all combined. E. Hazen says: "The
indispensable qualifications to make a writer are—a talent for literary
composition, an accurate knowledge of language, and an acquaintance with
the subject to be treated." Good health and freedom from care are necessary
for one who would give him or herself up to the severities of mental labor.
Dr. Wynne says: "With him whose occupation is either intellectual or
sedentary, or both, the nervous energy necessary to digest food is already
abstracted by the operations of the mind; and the meal taken under the
circumstances is but partially digested and appropriated to the use of the
body. The remainder acts as an irritant, and, if the practice be persevered in,
terminates in dyspepsia, followed by that Protean train of nervous diseases
which destroys the equanimity of mind, and finally terminates the life of so
many of our most efficient and worthy business men, at the very time when
their services are most valuable to their families and the community. The
cares of business should be dismissed with the termination of the hours
devoted to their pursuits, and their place supplied by those exercises or
amusements which bring with them cheerfulness and exhilaration." Of all
studies, the quiet and contemplative kind are most favorable to long life.
Those of an exciting nature produce a reaction, sometimes, of the physical
as well as intellectual powers.

5. Bible Readers.

An incalculable amount of good has been accomplished by this class of
persons. The originator is Mrs. Raynard, the L. N. R. of the "Missing Link,"
"The Book and its Story," &c., who lived in London. "One hundred ladies
have joined her as managers and superintendents. The ladies each select

Page 42

from among the uneducated class the best women they can find, and send
them out to read Bibles and sell them to their own class. They have now
two hundred such Bible women in England, Ireland, Scotland, and France,
and they are meeting with unheard-of success. Mrs. Raynard told me they
made soup for the poor in winter, and sold it to them very low, and in such a
way that the poorest could have his bowlful for some trifling service; and
while one is serving the soup, others serve them with portions of God's
word. Then the lady superintendents have tea meetings without number, and
sewing meetings, and clothing meetings. Beside, the ladies must first
instruct their readers every week or day in the Scriptures, in teaching, in
meekness, in manner, in helping the sick, and sympathizing with all
suffering, and, above all, teach them to lean only on God. They must also
pay the Bible women, who give up their time to this work, and keep an
account with each one. These lady readers or superintendents in England
publish a monthly of their own, conducted by dear Mrs. Raynard, so that
they can all communicate with one another; and God sends them funds to
the amount of $35,000 the year." A lady of Baltimore writes me: "The
Maryland Bible Society employs three paid Bible readers—all women—at
eight dollars per month each. These are purposely selected from the poorest
class of pious women, because it is thought that persons of that class have
readier access to the homes and hearts of the poor, beside the aid it affords
to honest poverty. Independently of this Bible effort, another has originated
from the London charity, unfolded in the 'Missing Link.'" The lady of
Baltimore (Miss W.) wrote from the Maryland Bible, &c., through the Word
Witness: "Just one year ago, I engaged a pious poor woman, at two dollars
per week, to labor among the destitute, vicious poor—a class that could not
be reached by ordinary methods of voluntary effort, dwelling in localities
that ladies might not safely visit. The work was to humanize these people;
to wash and clothe the children, and put them in Sabbath and public
schools; to read and pray, and teach their mothers; and to relieve personal
suffering. She has done a good work. Another woman has been employed in
South Baltimore, in the same calling. Recently, the ladies of the First
Presbyterian Church have formed a union, and raised the salary of one of
these female colportors, and thus the experiment promises to expand itself
into a permanent benevolent organization. I may say that the plan adopted,
if vigorously and efficiently carried out, would rid our crowded alleys of

Page 43

half the suffering and nearly all the vices and impositions that now render
them intolerable to the refined. On Christmas, I assisted to serve up a
supper, provided by a good lady for the poorest of the poor. It was given in
the district, and at the house of a widow, and under the care of our
colportors. There were forty-eight women and children present, not ragged
and hopeless, as they were one year ago, but tidy and bright, looking
hopefully to the future, as though they felt there is kindness in the world. It
was a pleasant sight to witness." The New York Female Auxiliary Bible
Society now employs thirteen Bible readers. A brief but interesting account
is given of them in the last report of that society, from which we copy:
"From the reports of the Bible readers for only a part of the year, we find
that they have paid more than seven thousand visits, gathered more than
two hundred children into the Sunday school, sold and distributed Bibles,
induced many to attend church, ministered to the wants of the destitute,
established sewing schools, and, in more ways than we can enumerate, have
gone about doing good." A Bible reader is now employed in Philadelphia by
the Pennsylvania Bible Society.

Page 44

4. Bankers and Bankers' Clerks.

Before the existence of savings banks, the poor had no safe place of deposit,
where they could receive interest, and whence they could withdraw their
deposits at pleasure. If they loaned their money, there was no certainty of
recovering it. If they tried to accumulate by saving what they had, it was not
always secure from depredation. Consequently they were tempted to spend
any surplus money they had, and often no forethought of the future could
save them from anxiety and misery. Now, by industry and perseverance,
they are enabled to accumulate something for contingencies—to provide
against want, sickness, old age, and slackness of employment. The idea of a
savings bank was originated by a woman—Mrs. Priscilla Wakefield. It is a
most worthy institution, and deserving of support and patronage. Holding
office in a bank is a very responsible situation. The numerous men
defaulters that have disgraced themselves in the last few years, are
sufficient proof that the temptation to appropriate unjustly is very great. It
requires men and women of fixed principle, whose honor is dearer to them
than life itself. We think women could very well manage savings banks.
They could at any rate attend in the female department, and in some parts of
Europe do. We find in the census of Great Britain two female bankers
reported. In the Englishwoman's Journal we read: "At St. Malo, a few years
ago, the wife of a rich banker, during his absence, took her place at his desk
amid the numerous clerks, received checks, and gave to the writer of this
article French money in return. They are frequently found in offices, and
often mainly conduct a husband's or a father's business." One of the Mrs.
Rothschild, I have been told, even now spends two or three hours every day
in her husband's banking house. Mrs. Mary Somerville says: "Three of the
most beneficial systems of modern times are due to the benevolence of
English ladies—the improvement of prison discipline, savings banks, and
banks for lending small sums to the poor." Not many years ago a banking
house was conducted by a lady in Nashville, Tenn. She was a widow, but
had during her first husband's life attended to some of the duties of the
bank, and accompanied her husband when he visited New York on business.
She is now the wife of one of the late candidates for the highest office in

Page 45

this nation—that of chief magistrate. A lady was employed in a savings
bank in Boston a few years back. A gentleman who has been cashier in a
bank for many years writes me: "I have no doubt that women might be
qualified for bank and brokers' clerks as well as men. In the offices of
cashier and teller, they would have to come in contact with so many rough
characters, I doubt whether it would do. I do not know the salaries paid in
Europe, either in stores, shops, banks, or brokers' offices, but suppose it
varies as it does in this country, according to the size of the city, the bank or
broker's capital, the qualifications and character, and the situations the
persons occupy. The cashier receives more than the teller; the teller often
more than the clerk, and the clerks are graded. In large banks in the city of
New York, the cashiers get from $4,000 to $6,000 per annum, while in the
country banks they scarcely get half that amount. In the city their situations
are very laborious, and very responsible, and many of them have been
twenty-five or thirty years in the business before they got to be cashiers.
Tellers receive in large cities from $2,500 to $3,000, and in small places
from $1,200 to $2,000. Clerks get in New York banks from $600 to $3,000,
taking the whole range from boys of seventeen to men of sixty with families
and great experience. In smaller towns they receive from $300 to $2,500,
taking the same range, many of them getting not more than $1,500 at any
time during their lives. In stores and shops the salaries are much less, say
not much over one half in very many instances; but persons in stores and
shops have this advantage over bank clerks: when they learn the business,
they are often taken into partnership with the proprietor, or they may set up
in a similar business for themselves. But bank clerks have no such prospects
before them. There may be salaries, in a few instances, over those
mentioned, but very seldom; and on the other hand, some young men are
placed in business sometimes without any remuneration for the first year. I
would also state that the situation of bank clerk, although very much sought
for, is certainly not desirable, as $1,200 or $1,500 will not support a family
in any city of the United States, without the most rigid economy; and then
they have little or nothing to lay up for a rainy day. Many bank clerks in this
city are no better off now than they were twenty years ago, though they
have lived poorly and economized all the time. So, in some respects, the
store clerk or salesman has the advantage. One reason why young men
prefer becoming bank clerks to mercantile clerks is, that they have more

Page 46

time for themselves. Say, they commence by seven o'clock in a store, and
nine at bank; they get through by two or three o'clock in bank, and they
have to work until night in a store.'

6. Brokers.

This is a business in which very few, if any, women engage without the aid
of the other sex. We are not aware that any women are stock brokers,
exchange brokers, or insurance brokers. We suppose women could not very
well conduct the business without having to mix promiscuously with men
on the street, and stop and talk with them in the most public places; and the
delicacy of woman would forbid that. But the wife, the sister, or daughter of
a broker might perhaps conduct the indoor business of the house, or keep
the books at least. In Paris, where women are extensively employed in
various departments of business, it would, perhaps, be more practicable for
a woman to carry on the business than in this country. There are respects in
which women of well-disciplined minds would be well suited for the
vocation: they are their observance of order and method, and their close
attention to details.

7. Colonizationists.

This is a business that would never have entered our minds for women to
engage in, had it not been for the course pursued by Caroline Chisholm.
Says the author of "Women and Work:" "Ask the emigrants who went out to
Australia year after year, under the careful and wise system of Caroline
Chisholm's colonization, how women can organize, and what professions
they should fill. I think they would answer: As organizers of colonies,
promoters of emigration, secretaries to colonies, &c." Many a husband and
wife may thank her for the comforts of home life. Some years ago, Mrs.
Farnum proposed taking from New York a shipload of women to California.
The matter was laughed at and passed by; but if we may believe the reports
that came from California of miners wanting wives, perhaps it would not
have been a bad plan to have taken out a supply (in case they could have
been had). In the early history of Virginia, women were brought over from

Page 47

England as wives for the men. "A society exists in England for the
promotion of female emigration to Australia. Under the auspices of this
society, about eleven hundred women, mostly distressed needlewomen, of
respectable character, have been sent to Australia, where they find
employment, and, we presume, the most of them, husbands."

8. Colportors.

"This is an important field of missionary labor in our own land, where
women might be employed to great advantage—namely, as colportors, or
distributors of tracts and books. The Boards of Publication now employ
men only, whose services must be paid at a much higher rate than women
would require. There are widows who need this employment for support,
and single women who need employment for health, and many women
would like this way of doing good. In every place, women would be found
suitable and willing to undertake this profession. It is one exactly suited to
them. It enters into their domestic circle of feelings and pursuits; and
honorable women, not a few, would be found ready to engage in the work.
A number of men would be needed to penetrate the wild places of our land;
but throughout all the settled portions, women would be found the most
effective agents. By this arrangement, a double gain would be secured. The
talents of pious women, now allowed to be wasted on trifles, would be
employed in the cause of moral improvement; and those men who now give
up their time, often at a great pecuniary sacrifice, to the colportor's duty,
would be at liberty to enter into other pursuits more beneficial to
themselves and to society." Are there none among the gentler sex
consecrated to the work of promoting the glory of God and the good of their
fellow beings? Are none of those that owe all their privileges and blessings
to the Bible, willing to make a sacrifice for its extension? Are all so selfish,
that the desire of personal gratification is the ruling, the only object for
which they live? a display in dress and style of living, the acquisition of
property, or notoriety? Are these the only objects of woman's exertions? No:
most women are too conscientious and unselfish to live for such a purpose.
There are many that would gladly do what they could, but they have no
definite plan in view. They know not exactly how to shape their course. If

Page 48

they were once started, they would neither lag nor faint in the race. Let such
become colportors, deaconesses, physicians, painters, engravers, whatever
best accords with their inclinations and abilities. Let them go forward. The
mist will gradually disappear, the way be made clear, and they followed by
others. It is best for one of strength and vigor to engage in the labors of a
colportor. Walking from house to house all day is very fatiguing to persons
not accustomed to being much on their feet. It requires a person that has at
heart the good of her fellow beings, and is willing to converse with all
classes and ages. It calls for a person of piety, and one of tact and judgment.

9. Copyists.

Law copying is done by young women in charge of the society in London
for promoting the employment of women. Miss Rye, who is superintendent
of the class, says: "Of course it took the writers some weeks to unlearn the
usual feminine spider-legged fashion of inditing; some weeks more to
decipher the solicitors' signs, contractions, and technical terms. We dare not
pretend, in defending the opening of this trade to women, that there is here,
as in printing, a deficiency of workers, a cry among the masters for more; or
that woman's work here, as in the telegraph offices, is intrinsically more
valuable than that of the other sex." In France, lawyers often employ
women to copy for them, and a number of women are employed by the
French Government to write. At Washington, ladies have been employed to
copy, not only for congressmen as individuals, but to copy government
documents; and received the same salaries as men. A friend told me many
ladies are thus employed at Washington. She knows two who each receive
salaries of $1,200 per annum. Miss N. says some ladies in Washington
make from $500 to $600 a winter, copying speeches and other documents
for members of Congress. She knew a lady who wrote all the year at a
salary of $1,200. "In Cincinnati, some lawyers employ women as copyists,
when the work can be sent from the office." Ladies employed by lawyers
must write a very clear, round, legible hand; if any mistake is made, the
writer must copy the manuscript anew. A young lady told me she used to
write for a lawyer, and received three cents for every hundred words. One
day she earned two dollars and a half. She wrote in the office of the lawyer.

Page 49

Many ladies, she says, are so employed in New York. Mrs. N., copyist,
charges twelve and a half cents a page of foolscap, for copying, estimating
her time at nine cents an hour. She writes mostly letters in English for
foreigners, and receives twenty-five cents a letter, usually of one page and a
half. She is very careful, she says, never to divulge the business of the
individual for whom she writes—a something very essential. Mrs. Blunt
used to earn in Washington $700 or $800 a year for copying. One copyist
charged $5 per week if she wrote at home, and $6 if away from home. I find
that in the Western cities the prices for copying vary from eight cents to
thirty-one cents a page. Ladies are occasionally employed at the
Smithsonian Institute for copying, and are paid 5 cents per 100 words. I
believe in New York a very common price for copying is 4 cents per 100
words. Miss W., an English lady, copied music about three years ago, and
sent it to London to be sold. She often earned $12 a week.

10. Deaconesses.

The order of deaconess was instituted at the same time as that of deacon,
and corresponds in duty with that office. We read of deaconesses in the last
chapter of Romans, Phœbe, Priscilla, Aquila, &c. The establishment of
institutions for deaconesses affords a home to the unmarried women of our
land, and widows without children, and furnishes them with such work as
their health and previous employments fit them for. It carries out the
principle, "Unity is strength." It is founded on that true spring of success—
sympathy arising from similarity of circumstances and sameness of
employment. Ministering to the sick and poor is so well adapted to women,
that their time might be pleasantly as well as profitably spent. The desire in
women to be employed is thus gratified, and the good of others as well as
themselves thereby promoted. Those received as members would find it
most harmonious to be of the same religion, and they should be willing to
come under the regulations of the institution. Such an institution would
have to be conducted by a person of discretion, piety, and wisdom. The
members usually dress in uniform. Comfortable clothing is always
furnished, boarding of course being provided in the establishment. The
duties of deaconess in Protestant institutions are the same as those of sisters

Page 50

of charity in nunneries and convents. The institutions are usually
commenced by public or private contributions, and some by both. When
once firmly established, the members might receive a fair compensation for
their services from the sick that are able and willing to pay. It might go to
the support of the institution, and those who saw proper to devote
themselves to teaching might throw their profits into the general fund. But
such institutions should be secured on such a firm basis that those women
who joined the order would ever be certain of a home, and of a kind and
careful attendance in sickness and old age. If institutions are established in
various parts of the United States, an inmate of one, if tired of remaining at
that, might, by request, and after consideration by the principal, or a board
of trustees, be permitted to remove to another. There are a number of
institutions in Europe for preparing women for the duties of deaconess. The
first institution of modern times was established by Pastor Fliedner, at
Kaiserwerth, Germany. "It has for its object the training of deaconesses—
that is, female students to take charge of the sick and the poor, and
superintend hospitals, infant and industrial schools, and, in short, to be the
educators and preservers of humanity." An association has lately been
formed in London of this order. Its object "is the diffusion of sanitary
knowledge and promotion of physical training." "In Russia, the system for
the practical training of deaconesses has spread in all directions. In Paris,
Strasbourg, Echallens (in Switzerland), Utrecht, and England, the institution
exists." Kings have not thought it beneath them to assist in the support of
such institutions. Miss Bremer mentions several going to Jerusalem to take
charge of a hospital, which the King of Prussia founded at an expense of
$50,000. We find two or three such institutions exist in the United States—
one in New York, another in Pittsburg, and one in an incipient state in
Baltimore. The one in New York is conducted by Sisters of the Holy
Communion (Episcopalians). Five of them make their home at St. Luke's
Hospital. One or two of the number are engaged in a parochial school
connected with Dr. Muhlenberg's church. Those of the hospital nurse the
sick during the day. They employ nurses to do the night nursing, except in
very serious cases that require especial attention. Their dress is simple,
black, with white collars and undersleeves, and, when in full dress, a Swiss
muslin cap. They do not take vows like the nuns of the Roman Catholic
church, nor do they give up all their property, but make a quarterly

Page 51

payment, according to their means. One devotes herself to the measuring
out and dispensing of medicine. There is a hospital in Pittsburg in charge of
some deaconesses from Kaiserwerth. They belong to the Evangelical
Lutheran church. The institution was commenced by the Rev. W. A.
Passavant, but is now incorporated by the State, and the "members are
empowered to engage in all works of mercy, such as the care of the poor,
sick, fatherless, insane, and the education of the ignorant and the orphan.
The sisters live in community—dress simply, and generally alike, so as to
avoid any unnecessary distinction and useless expenses. Applicants for
admission go first for a month merely as visitors, and pay their own
expenses going and returning. If both parties approve, they then enter on
probation for three months, and afterward for nine months, or longer, as the
institution may deem best. Then, if their purpose is still the same, they are
received by a vote, according to the charter, as members. It is distinctly
understood, that if a change in their views and purposes, or nearer or family
duties require them to leave after this, they are at perfect liberty to do so,
but always, only, after giving the institution a due notice of three months,
unless such a notification is impossible from the circumstances of the case.
Those who are preparing for the work among the sick learn the duties of an
apothecary. All the sisters know how to mix medicines." Miss E. Blackwell
says: "In the Catholic church the wants and talents of all classes are met.
Single wealthy women become nuns, and so devote their riches and talents
and time to good works. They associate with the most refined and best
educated of both sexes. Poor single women find a home and social
pleasures. It requires practical business habits to become even a successful
sister of charity. They should enter with an active interest and zest into the
duties of every-day life. These orders can never succeed well among
Protestants, particularly until female physicians are introduced." The
Minister of the Interior, writing from Italy to Mrs. Jameson, says: "Not only
have we experienced the advantage of employing the sisters of charity in
the prisons, in the supervision of the details, in distributing food, preparing
medicines, and nursing the sick in the infirmaries; but we find that the
influence of these ladies on the minds of the prisoners, when recovering
from sickness, has been productive of the greatest benefit, as leading to
permanent reform in many cases, and a better frame of mind always: for
this reason, among others, we have given them every encouragement."

Page 52

Many young ladies of education, wealth, and influence would, on becoming
pious, or when disappointed in their hopes and aspirations, be likely to join
such societies. At such times, many are willing to give themselves up
entirely to works of active benevolence. Such a life, of course, involves
some self-denials. Bishop Potter warmly advocated the introduction of such
orders, and delivered an address in favor of it. The Bishop of Exeter
recommended the establishment of such orders in England, and an
institution for deaconesses has been opened in London.

11. Dentists.

Some time ago, in New York, a few ladies prepared themselves for the
practice of dentistry. We believe only one really practised, and she but a
short time. We find her name in a New York directory as a dentist. It would
be more agreeable to most ladies to have their teeth cleaned and plugged by
a lady. They would not feel the same hesitancy in going alone at any time to
a dentist of their own sex. Extracting teeth would require more nerve and
strength than most ladies possess. Yet, if a woman has nerves sufficiently
firm, and ability to control her sympathies, she may succeed. There are
dental schools in Baltimore, Philadelphia, and Cincinnati. A professor in the
dental school at Philadelphia writes: "I would suggest that if any ladies
desire to become efficient practitioners in some branches of dentistry, it
would be better for them to apply to a reputable practitioner, and with time
and attention become thoroughly familiar with those branches. In doing so
they will prove to the world their capability, and the rest in time will follow.
Dentistry has been humorously called a 'woman's profession.'" "There is
nothing even in the surgical part of dentistry, to which she is not adapted. In
this profession she will have a fair opportunity to foil her enemies and
accusers; and her children's teeth would not be set on edge without the
possibility of instant relief. There is no mystery in the dental structure,
which the turnkey, in her magic hand, could not unlock; and no terrible pain
in tooth extraction, which her mystic power could not exceedingly
mitigate." Most profit arising to dentists is from making and inserting
artificial teeth. It is a lucrative business, when properly understood, and one
which affords constant employment.

Page 53

12. Editresses.

The most powerful instrument for disseminating general knowledge in the
United States is the newspaper press. It does a great deal for promoting a
love of letters; and the cheapness of the papers is such as to render them
accessible to almost every one. The literature of the day penetrates the most
remote corner of our country. Obscure, indeed, is the place that knows not
the printer's power. Even in California, more than a year ago, there were
published 81 newspapers. In New York city alone were published 154
newspapers, and 114 magazines. But this is not strange when we remember
that no less than eighty languages are spoken there. A newspaper states that
there are printed in Austria 10 newspapers, 14 in Africa, 24 in Spain, 20 in
Portugal, 30 in Asia, 65 in Belgium, 85 in Denmark, 90 in Russia and
Poland, 320 in other German States, 500 in Great Britain, and 1,800 in the
United States. Taking merely newspaper and magazine literature into
consideration, does not our republic offer inducements to intellectual
culture? Does she not reward talent and encourage industry? Yes. Her
general diffusion of knowledge and the learned men of her press give a
positive reply. The dignity of man should be elevated, his affections
purified, and his pursuits ennobled by the mighty influence of the press.
Editors should live as ministers to the welfare of humanity. The aspiring
character of our people and their thirst for knowledge will long make a
heavy demand on the talent and taste of those who wield the editor's pen.
There are several publications in the United States conducted exclusively
by ladies; some in which the assistant editors are ladies; and a small number
devoted to the interests of women alone. Several ladies have entered the
editorial corps within the last few years. The Harpers, in their Magazine,
state there are about six hundred literary and miscellaneous periodicals
published in this country. If all the labor, as type setting, binding, &c., was
done by women, what a fortunate thing it would be for many of the poor! I
have been told that when an article is sent to a newspaper, and is known to
have come from the brain and the pen of a woman, ten to one, her
compensation will be smaller for it, and in many cases it will be rejected.
There are a few exceptions. Fanny Fern, for instance, receives, we have
seen it stated, at the rate of $100 a column from Mr. Bonner for a
contribution to the Ledger. The sum total he will pay her for the amount he

Page 54

has engaged will be $6,000. Mrs. B. receives $600 for editing a monthly
paper. Some time back contributors to the Independent were paid $3 a
column, and to the New York Observer at the same rate. Mr. L. told me that
a man is paid $20 a week for making out an index for the New York
Tribune, which could be done by any lady with a cultivated and well
disciplined mind. The man that was employed not long since had been a
wood engraver, and had received no special training for his duties in the
Tribune office. The papers to be sent away are directed by machinery,
which a lady could attend. Some one writes me the qualifications for his
business are strength of mind and body. We think there is generally a heavy
draft on either one or the other in every occupation successfully pursued,
and in some on both. Émile Girardin was a French editress that died
recently. Mrs. Johnson, of Edinburgh, was for years editress of the
Inverness Courier, which was published in her husband's name. Miss
Parkes conducts the Englishwoman's Journal. Mrs. Swisshelm edited the
Pittsburg Visitor with much vigor and ability. Mrs. Virginia L. French has
charge of the literary department of a paper issued in Nashville, Tenn. Miss
McDowell might have succeeded with the Woman's Advocate, if her noble
efforts had been appreciated as they deserved.

13. Government Officers.

"Many Government offices could be creditably filled by intelligent and
experienced women. Miss Wallace and Miss Thomas were employed as
computers on the Coast Survey at Washington in 1854, with salaries each of
$480, with perquisites making it $600. A man to do the same work would
probably receive twice as much." "Mrs. Miller, at one time, was engaged in
making observations of the weather—the thermometer, barometer, direction
of winds, quantity of rain, &c., in which she was assisted by another person
appointed by a society of which both sexes were members." Computations
of this kind could be made at home. Mr. Blodgett, who had charge of the
Smithsonian Institute in 1854, wrote: "The discussion of observations in
physical science, meteorological observations particularly, has never been
undertaken in a general manner until attempted in this department of the
Smithsonian Institute, and I have found that accuracy and despatch require

Page 55

well-trained minds of great endurance. Only the best minds can successfully
undertake scientific calculations and computations; and these must possess
a sort of half masculine strength and endurance." Yet we would not offer
this as a discouragement. If it has been done, it can be done again. "During
Mr. Fillmore's administration, two women wrote for the Treasury
Department at Washington, at salaries of twelve and fifteen hundred a year."
Several ladies are employed in different parts of the United States for
copying by registers of deeds; but the majority are relatives of the registers.
In some towns of the East, however, other ladies than relatives are
employed, who receive $1 per day for their services. Miss Olive Rose has
performed the duties of the register of deeds, at Thomaston, Maine. She
writes: "I was officially notified of the election, required to give bonds, &c.
I am unable to state the exact amount of salary, as it is regulated by
whatever business is done in the office. Perhaps it may average between
$300 and $400 yearly." The Duchess of Leuchtenberg was elected to
preside over the Imperial Academy of Science, in Russia, a few years ago.
An acquaintance told me that in the warehouses at the London docks, silks,
shawls, and such goods are exposed for sale, and many ladies go down in
their carriages and purchase. If any female is suspected of concealing on her
person goods that she has appropriated in the warehouse, the watchmen
who guard the place remark they would like to detain her for a few minutes,
and convey her to a room, where a woman is in attendance to search her.
The present collector of customs at Philadelphia writes: "The only instance
of employment of women in connection with the custom house here has
been, while Liverpool steamers were coming to this port, some years ago,
when one or two were employed to search female emigrants, to prevent
smuggling on their persons. The employment was only for a day or two at a
time, and is now discontinued." Some time ago it was feared that large
quantities of precious stones and laces were concealed on the persons of
some women, and so smuggled into New York. Consequently "two
American female searchers were inaugurated in the revenue service as aids.
They each receive $500 per annum, and are paid by the month. Men receive
$1,095 (or $3 per day) for similar services. The qualifications needed are
intelligence, tact, and integrity. They spend but one or two hours on the
arrival of each steamer or passenger received from abroad." I think, in

Page 56

European countries, female police, who examine the persons and passports
of women, receive the same salaries as men.

14. Lawyers.

We cannot question the right of woman to plead at the bar, but we doubt
whether it would be for her good. She might study law, to discipline her
mind and to store it with useful information. She might profitably spend, in
that way, time which would otherwise be devoted to music, painting, or the
languages. But the noisy scenes now witnessed in a court room are scarcely
compatible with the reserve, quietude, and gentleness that characterize a
woman of refinement. Theodore Parker said: "As yet, I believe, no woman
acts as a lawyer; but I see no reason why the profession of law might not be
followed by women as well as men. He must be rather an uncommon
lawyer who thinks no feminine head could compete with him. Most lawyers
that I have known are rather mechanics at law than attorneys or scholars at
law; and, in the mechanical part, woman could do as well as man—could be
as good a conveyancer, could follow precedents as carefully, and copy
forms as nicely. I think her presence would mend the manners of the court
—of the bench, not less than of the bar." A lady lawyer would not be
without a precedent, for we read from a note in "Women Artists:" "Christina
Pisani wrote a work which was published in Paris, 1498. It gives an account
of the learned and famous Novella, the daughter of a professor of the law in
the university of Bologna. She devoted herself to the same studies, and was
distinguished for her scholarship. She conducted her father's cases; and,
having as much beauty as learning, was wont to appear in court veiled." We
suppose this is the same young lady of whom we read elsewhere: "At
twenty-six she took the degree of doctor of laws, and began publicly to
expound the laws of Justinian. At thirty she was elevated to a professor's
chair, and taught the law to a crowd of scholars from all nations. Others of
her sex have since filled professors' chairs in Bologna." While we would not
encourage women to act publicly as counsellors at law, we would claim for
them the privilege of acting as attorneys. Writing out deeds, mortgages,
wills, and indentures, would be a pleasant occupation for such women as
are qualified and fond of sedentary life. We know that the hearts of most

Page 57

women would prompt them to relieve the poor and oppressed: but might
they not do it in some other way as efficiently as by pleading at the bar? If
the weak seek their aid, let them bestow the benefit of their legal lore. If the
helpless seek their protection, let them bring their information and counsel
to bear upon the case, but not by public speaking. By personal effort, or by
applying to the good of the other sex, they may accomplish much. If a
woman involve herself in the intricacies of law, may she not lose those
tender traits that endear her to the other sex, and in time discard those
graces that render her gentle and lovely at home? The profession of the law
is one suited to the inclinations, nature, and taste of but very few women.
But if a lady will practise law, she will need great clearness of mind, a good
insight into the motives of others, fearlessness in expressing her convictions
of right, and ability in refraining from saying more than she should.

15. Lecturers.

Lecturing is addressing people through the sense of hearing; writing is
addressing them through the sense of sight. An individual can address a
larger number by the latter plan than the former. Many people that would
not devote the time, trouble, and expense to investigate books, will give
their twenty-five cents to hear a lecture on a given subject. Rev. Mr.
Higginson says: "We forget that wonderful people, the Spanish Arabs,
among whom women were public lecturers and secretaries of kings, while
Christian Europe was sunk in darkness." "In Italy, from the fifteenth to the
nineteenth century, it was not esteemed unfeminine for women to give
lectures in public to crowded and admiring audiences. They were freely
admitted members of learned societies, and were consulted by men of
preëminent scientific attainments, as their equals in scholarship." Theodore
Parker felt the importance of public lecturing, and expressed gratification
that women were occupying the field so successfully. In the Female
Medical College of Philadelphia, great attention is given to the study of
physiology; and several graduates from that institution have lectured upon
this subject, one or two of them with great success. It is thought best that a
lecturer upon physiology should be a physician, all the branches of medical
science being so intimately connected, that the separation of one from the

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whole is like the dismemberment of the human body, producing almost the
same effect upon the severed member. "The field for competent female
lecturers on physiological subjects is as broad as the nation, and promises a
rich harvest for as many as can possibly be engaged in it, for the next half
century." Dr. Gregory, of the New England Female Medical College, writes:
"Some of the graduates of this college have lectured to ladies more or less
on physiology, hygiene, &c., and with good success. One in particular has
given courses of lectures, illustrated with the apparatus of the college, to the
young ladies in our four State Normal Schools, with great satisfaction to the
principals and pupils. One of our graduates is resident physician, and
teacher and superintendent of health in the Mount Holyoke Female
Seminary, where there are almost three hundred pupils." Other female
seminaries throughout the country ought to be thus supplied. Among those
who lecture on physiology are Mrs. Fowler, Mrs. Jones, and Mrs. Johnson.
In cities, a number of ladies might deliver lectures in private schools,
academies, and colleges, on physiology and hygiene. Quite a number of
ladies have delivered temperance lectures, and some were employed at one
time by the State Temperance Society of New York. Lecturers of note
receive from $50 to $500 for a single lecture, beside having their travelling
expenses paid. When lecturing on their own responsibility, the entire
proceeds are theirs, save expenses for room, gas, and (in winter) fuel.
Lectures are most generally given before societies, that pay the lecturer a
specified sum. Lucy Stone was paid $263 for her lectures in Bangor, Maine.
Miss Dwight lectured on art, a few years ago, charging at first ten dollars
for a series of six lectures, but afterward she reduced the price to five
dollars.

16. Librarians.

There is a Woman's Library in New York. The object is to furnish women—
particularly working women, who are not able to subscribe to other libraries
—with a quiet and comfortable place to read in, during their leisure
moments. A lady in Darby, Pennsylvania, attends a town library that was
established in 1785. It has always been kept in the house of her family, and
she has had no occasion to employ assistance outside of her family. In the

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Mercantile Library of New York, two ladies have charge of the reading
room. One receives $200, and the other $250 a year. Lady librarians receive
from one third to one half as much as men. The librarian says they are not
physically so capable, and otherwise not so well qualified. They could
always do the lighter work of a library. They are employed all the year, and
spend about eight hours in the reading room. The secretary of the
Apprentice's Library in Philadelphia writes: "Both our principal librarians
are ladies, and we have two assistants of the same sex. The principals
receive $308, and the assistants $90 each, per annum. The girls' library, in
which one of the principals and the two assistants are employed, is open
five afternoons in the week, from three to four hours each afternoon and
evening. It is only lately we have employed a lady for a librarian for the
boys' department, and we find the change to be a happy one. The boys are
more respectful, more easily managed, and kept in better order than
formerly, and the number of readers has increased." The gentleman who has
charge of the public library in Boston writes: "We employ eleven American
ladies, who do all the work of a library in its various branches, under the
direction of the superintendent, and subject to revision by him or an able
male assistant. Some cover and collate books, some go from place to place
to get books, and some are occupied entirely with writing and copying
catalogues, shelf lists, records, &c. The ladies are paid $7 per week. Some
spend eight and some ten hours in the library. Much of the labor performed
by males is the same as that performed by females; but in every instance,
save one, paid for at higher rates. Why, I cannot say. The office of
superintendent requires learning and experience. In Boston, the rate of
wages for men is higher than for females. Ladies are paid pretty well here,
in comparison with what they are paid for work elsewhere. Teachers are
paid higher than in other places. A competent person soon learns the duties
of a library, but experience adds to her value. Ladies are employed in
preference to men because they are competent, because it is a good field for
female labor, because they have a good influence on those who transact
business with the library, and, I doubt not, because their work can be had at
less rates than men's. Our schools are graded, and in schools of a given
grade there are divisions. Of course a graduate from the highest division of
the highest grade, other things being equal (that is talent, &c.), is the person
for us. A qualified lady is as good for work as a qualified man. The work of

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a librarian cultivates the mind. All advantages, aside from education,
depend upon the taste of the lady employed. If fond of reading and
ambitious to excel, she can, by faithful application out of library hours,
succeed. Three dollars is the lowest price for which a lady can be
comfortably boarded in Boston." "In the Smithsonian Institute at
Washington, a lady is permanently employed as librarian. She receives a
salary of $500 per annum, and is employed six hours a day. The
qualifications needed for the post are reading, writing, some knowledge of
French, German, &c."

17. Magazine Contributors.

Some of our periodical literature is futile and unsatisfying. It is light and
trivial in its nature. It may delight a few hours, but then follows the reaction
—a dull and heavy sinking of the heart—a sluggish dreariness—a neglect
of duty—a disdain for the actual realities of life. The prose of most
magazines is only love dreams—the poetry froth. Such light nutriment is
unfit for the souls of women—such ethereal diet can never satisfy the
cravings of an immortal mind. But some improvement has taken place in
part of our magazine literature, and a few of our reviews equal those of any
country. Subjects are as numerous as the objects around us, and suited to all
moods and diversities of mind. To the contributor, I would say: Your writing
will be likely to find readers—whether it be grave or gay—sad or sprightly
—witty or jovial; whether one making a draught on the imagination or the
judgment; whether one displaying your own attainments, or calling to aid
the opinions and acquirements of others; in short, one of thought, fancy, or
facts. Your friends may like your ideas draped in poetry, or the more
substantial dress of prose. One is like gold, the other like iron. One serves
for ornament, the other for use. The true poet is a gifted person; a heaven-
born talent does he or she possess. If you have good descriptive talents, you
can write stories, laying the scenes in far-away countries that are not much
known, and yet eliciting some interest. And as to the subjects of a moral
caste, their name is legion. Magazine writing furnishes a palatable way of
drawing attention to individual foibles, or furnishing a satire on the
inconsistencies and exactions of society in general. If you attempt to write

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natural stories, let your scenes and events be such as occur in every-day life.
It has been suggested that a good publication, like the Atlantic Monthly,
conducted entirely by women, would do great good, but we fear it would
not be supported. I was told, however, by the gentleman who has charge of
Harper's Magazine, that two thirds of the articles are contributed by
women, and they receive better prices than men would. The Saturday Press
says that Harper's Magazine pays its writers $7.50 to $10 per page; the
Atlantic Monthly, from $6 to 10; the Knickerbocker, $3, which is equal to
$5 for Harper and $6 for the Atlantic; the North American Review, $1.50
per page. The prices mentioned are said by one supposed to know, to be
exaggerated, and made the exception, not the rule. Mr. H. C. Carey, in an
article styled "Rewards of Authorship," writes: "I have now before me a
statement from a single publisher, in which he says that to Messrs. Willis,
Longfellow, Bryant, and Allston, his price was uniformly $50 for a poetical
article, long or short—and his readers know that they were generally very
short; in one case only fourteen lines. To numerous others, it was from $25
to $40. In one case he has paid $25 per page for prose. To Mr. Cooper he
paid $1,800 for a novel, and $1,000 for a series of naval biographies, the
author retaining the copyright for separate publication; and in such cases, if
the work be good, its appearance in the magazine acts as the best of
advertisements. To Mr. James, he paid $1,200 for a novel, leaving him also
the copyright. For a single number of his journal, he has paid to authors
$1,500."

18. Missionaries.

Miss Rice, a missionary in Constantinople, has a large school for girls.
Some of her scholars live in Constantinople, but most of them are from
abroad—different parts of Turkey and Western Asia. "In England, Scotland,
Ireland, and Germany, females organize societies of their own, and send out
teachers and readers of their own sex. Ladies in England have had a society
there twenty-five years, expressly for sending out and sustaining single
ladies to work for heathen women, and they have already themselves sent
two hundred into the field, at a cost of many thousands of pounds. If any of
the lady missionaries sent out by the ladies' society in England desire to

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leave the work within five years, they shall be at liberty to do so, but shall
refund to that society the cost of sending them out." Mrs. Ellen B. Mason, a
missionary of Burmah, is now in New York, endeavoring to obtain female
missionaries to return with her. A lady (Mrs. Bigelow) was employed
among the city missionaries in Boston, at a salary of $350. From the last
reports of the American Board of Foreign Missions, the Old School
Presbyterian, the Protestant Episcopal, the Methodist, and Dutch Reformed,
we find 451 lady missionaries were supported by their Boards at the time of
making out the reports. The American Board had in charge 185 among
foreign nations, and among the Indians 41 = 226. Of those sent out by this
Board, 26 are unmarried. The Old School Presbyterian has 78 among the
Indians (33 unmarried), and among heathen 53 (3 of the number single) =
131. The Baptist Foreign Missions number 34 (none unmarried). The
American Baptist Union require every lady and gentleman that go out as
missionaries from their Board to marry before they go. The Dutch
Reformed have 11 among foreign nations. The Protestant Episcopal have 26
foreign missionaries (all married). The Methodist 17 (2 unmarried). In a
manual for the use of missionaries and missionary candidates in connection
with the Board of Foreign Missions of the Presbyterian Church, we find the
laborers needed for the foreign field are: 1st, ordained ministers of the
gospel; 2d, physicians; 3d, school teachers; 4th, printers; 5th, farmers and
mechanics; 6th, unmarried female teachers. In referring to all the other
classes but the first mentioned, it reads: "Though not called to preach the
gospel, their Christian profession requires from them the same devotedness
to the cause of Christ, according to the circumstances in which the
providence of God has placed them, that is required from the ministers of
the gospel. The application should be in writing, and the candidate should
state briefly his age, education, employment, the length of time he has been
a professor of religion, his motive and reasons for desiring to be a
missionary, the field he prefers, and the state of his health. For a female this
information may be given through a third person. No person will be
appointed to the service of the Board until the executive committee have
obtained as thorough a knowledge as possible of his or her character. For
this purpose a personal acquaintance is very desirable. In all cases, written
testimonials, full and explicit, must be forwarded." The treasurer of the
Presbyterian Board said the salary depends on place and qualifications. The

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Treasurer of the Dutch Reformed Missions said a single lady receives from
$300 to $400, according to her qualifications. Piety and a good common
education are all that is necessary. They learn the language after arriving at
their place of destination. None go without a certificate from a physician,
saying they are free from organic disease. If their health fails so that they
cannot recover, their passage home is paid, and they are supported for one
year after. The minister connected with the Methodist Board said the salary
depends on the places, and no particular preparation is requisite. They have
many more applicants than they have places for.

19. Medical Missionaries.

An association in Philadelphia educates a limited number of ladies to go out
as medical missionaries. Any information in regard to this association may
be obtained from Mrs. Sarah J. Hale, 1418 Rittenhouse Square,
Philadelphia. The enterprise opens to such missionaries a wide field of
usefulness, that cannot be reached in any other way. A number are now
wanting in foreign countries. Rev. Mr. Dwight, writing from Constantinople
in 1852, very highly commends the plan of giving to some female
missionaries a medical education. He refers to the secluded lives of the
females in oriental nations, to their ignorance, and the superstitious
reverence felt by the people for those acquainted with diseases and their
remedies. He thinks that in Constantinople, among all ranks of people, and
even among the Mohammedans, a female physician would find constant
practice, and gain an access to the female portion of the community that
missionaries cannot. And, if pious, in the capacity of physician, she could
do much to promote their spiritual welfare. A knowledge of the Turkish
language would be indispensable; and some acquaintance with French and
Italian, Dr. Dwight recommends. And it was thought by some of the
missionaries in India, before the rebellion occurred, that medical missionary
ladies could accomplish much good there, especially at Calcutta.
Missionaries in various other countries have also given it as their opinion
that a great deal of good might be done in heathen countries by medical
ladies.

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20. Physicians.

It is only within the last few years that women have received any
preparation for the practice of medicine in our country. But it is now
advancing in a way that is very gratifying to the friends of the cause, and is
beginning to be appreciated by the people. Many of the most learned and
talented men in the profession approve of women devoting themselves to
the practice of medicine on their own sex and children. The mildness and
amiability of woman, her modesty, her delicacy and refinement, all tend to
make her acceptable at the bedside. Her quick insight into the ailments of
others and her promptness in offering a remedy enhance her value. Some
think the modesty and delicacy that should characterize a physician are lost
to a lady in acquiring a knowledge of the profession. We would think not
any more than by a gentleman. Why should the result be different? And
surely a woman wants in her physician, whether male or female, a person of
pure thoughts and feelings. Some say women have not firmness and nerve
enough to perform surgical operations—that if they have, it is only animal
force. What is it but animal force that gives the superiority to men (if they
are superior)? Some say that such a profession may call woman among an
objectionable class of people. "The fact that the practice of medicine draws
its support from the miseries and sufferings of the world is no objection to
its respectability. What profession is there that does not draw its support
from some suffering, necessity, or disability?—unless it be that of the
mountebank." Another objection urged is, that women lose their delicacy by
the study and practice of anatomy under a male physician. This offensive
feature is removed in the Female Medical College of Philadelphia, where
that post has been filled by a woman for six or seven years. It is filled,
writes one of the professors, to the full satisfaction, I believe, alike of the
class and the faculty. In 1758, Anna Manzolini was professor of anatomy in
Bologna. We believe, if a lady acquires a knowledge of medicine, it should
be a thorough one. Undoubtedly too much strong medicine has been used in
the United States, and that will account to some extent for the bad health of
American women. Night practice and the inclemencies of the weather are
the greatest difficulties a woman must contend with in the practice of
medicine. If a lady has means, she can command a conveyance of her own.
As to practising at night, she can have some one to accompany her, if in the

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city. If in a town, village, or the country, she will be likely to know who the
people are, and have a conveyance sent for her. If a woman acquires a
thorough knowledge of medicine, she can better promote the well-being and
preserve the health of herself and children. No lady should undertake the
practice of medicine unless she feels competent in every way to do so. If
she does, let her enter with her soul into it, and keep constantly in view her
object to relieve the suffering and bring health to the diseased. The practice
of medicine is more renumerative than teaching. Mrs. Hale, who strongly
advocates the practice of medicine by ladies, says: "Teachers grow out of
fashion as they grow old; physicians, on the contrary, gain credit and
reputation from length of practice." There is one department of medicine
that we think belongs to women, and women alone. It is midwifery. In the
feudal times many ladies of rank and wealth prescribed and measured out
medicines for their tenants, and many women practised midwifery. It is
proved by Dr. Saul Gregory, of Boston, founder of the New England
Female Medical College, that the practice of male physicians in the
department of midwifery is not only injurious, but destructive of human
life. He writes: "I have within the past six months made an effort to
ascertain the number of lady graduates, having written to the different
schools where they have graduated. From the number certainly ascertained,
with the addition of a probable number of others, I should say that there are
at least two hundred graduated female physicians in the United States. The
number from this (the New England Female Medical College) is thirty-four.
The field is broad enough, of course, for many thousands; and to women of
good natural abilities and suitable acquirements there is a prospect of
success in all of the cities and large villages of the country. They will more
readily find professional employment now and henceforward than they have
during the past ten years, inasmuch as the idea of female medical practice
has become more familiar to the public mind, and the custom is becoming
gradually established. The tuition in medical colleges generally is from $60
to $80 a term. Board is from $2 to $4, according to circumstances. About
$30 worth of medical books are needed. This college has a scholarship
fund, affording free tuition to a large number of students from any part of
the world." Dr. Gregory expresses our views in regard to more unoccupied
women entering the profession of medicine, so much better than we could
do, that we will transcribe what he says on the subject: "Man, the lord of

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creation, has the world before him, and can choose his profession or pursuit
—war, politics, agriculture, commerce, mechanic arts, mercantile affairs
(not excepting ribbon and tape), and a thousand vocations and diversions.
There are said to be 40,000 physicians in the United States. 20,000 of these
ought to give place to this number of women, and turn their attention to
pursuits better adapted to their strong muscles and strong minds. In addition
to providing for the self support of 20,000 or more women, this change
would relieve that number of men, and secure to the country the benefit of
their mental and manual industry—quite an item in our political economy
and national wealth. Of course, this very desirable change cannot be
brought about so suddenly as to create any great disturbance in the
established order of things, even if the enterprise is carried forward with all
possible vigor; so that physicians now in the field need not be greatly
alarmed in prospect of female competition." We think, all diseases peculiar
to women, or surgical operations on women requiring any exposure of
person, should be treated and performed by women alone. Many a woman
suffers for months, or years, and often a lifetime, because of that instinctive
delicacy that makes her rather suffer than be treated by a male physician.
Those that prepare themselves as physicians should be ladies of honor,
education, and refinement. In most families, after the minister of the gospel,
the physician holds the next highest place in the esteem of the members.
Other subjects than those of medicine are often discussed, and the advice of
a physician sought on matters of vital importance to those interested. The
free, unembarrassed entrance of a physician into the sanctum of home,
gives an opportunity of learning much that should be sacredly preserved in
their own hearts. A lady physician needs firmness and dignity in the
maintenance of her rights and opinions. When a woman is weak both in
body and mind, timid and fearful, how much better can one of her own sex
soothe her! It may be the nurse has not time, in a charitable, or even in a
pay institution. But if her physician is a woman, well acquainted with her
profession, and possessing discernment, sympathy, and some knowledge of
the human heart, how readily may she read the inner as well as the outer
wants of her patient! She will treat her gently and tenderly; and if the
patient be a mother, the physician will see her family now and then, to
relieve her patient's anxiety. If she is poor, she will speak to some of her
rich patients, or acquaintances, to see that she is furnished with suitable

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employment when she is well. And so she will interest herself about those
matters most male physicians would never think of, or, if they did, would
consider beneath their attention. "In Paris, for a long period, women have
studied medicine with the best physicians, who used them as supplements,
to attend the poor and do some of the hospital practice." Two lady
physicians became quite distinguished in Paris, and a hospital was in the
entire charge of one. The statistics and professional reports of these ladies
are now accepted by the best physicians in all countries. Dr. Elizabeth
Blackwell has lately established a hospital in New York city, where ladies
studying medicine can have the benefits arising from the observation and
experience acquired in a hospital. This has long been considered almost
essential in the education of male students. In the same city is a preparatory
school of medicine conducted by professors connected with the medical
schools of the city. They give separate instruction to a class of ladies, who
are admitted to the clinical teachings of two of the largest dispensaries in
the city. These dispensaries furnish upwards of 60,000 cases of disease
annually. In 1850, a charter was granted to the Female Medical College of
Pennsylvania. A college was commenced in Boston about the same time.
Both of these schools are for females exclusively, and each has graduated
about fifty pupils. In the Pennsylvania Medical University both sexes are
received. In some branches the presence of mixed classes is embarrassing to
both professors and pupils, and that free communication desirable for
acquiring and imparting information is partially checked. This difficulty is
done away in some female colleges by employing competent lady
professors. In Europe, women are not permitted to receive instruction with
the male students, but in hospital practice they have excellent opportunities
of gaining information as nurses and physicians. I know of no pursuit that
offers a more inviting field for educated women than the practice of
medicine. The ability of woman to study and practice medicine has been
satisfactorily demonstrated. Some ladies have graduated at both the
allopathic and homœopathic schools in Cleveland. The allopathic school in
that place was the first to admit ladies. Different motives actuate ladies in
the study of medicine. The wives of some manufacturers, planters, and
others, who reside where medical advice is not easily obtained, study
medicine that they may prescribe for their husbands' employées. Some
study medicine that they may have something to rely upon in case other

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resources should fail them. Some teachers have studied that they may
instruct their pupils in the laws of hygiene and remedies for disease. Quite a
number of lady physicians are employed in female boarding schools. The
benefit resulting from having the advice of a physician at any hour of the
day or night is very great, and must relieve the superintendents of schools
and absent parents from much anxiety. Some ladies prefer giving advice at
their residences. A lady that devotes herself to a speciality should endeavor
to keep posted in all the branches of her profession, so far as she can
without neglecting to acquire all the information possible in her speciality.
"In the United States there are 40,564 physicians, 191 surgeons, 5,132
apothecaries, 456 chemists, 923 dentists, 59 oculists, 59 patent medicine
makers. There are 35 medical colleges, 230 professors, and about 5,000
students." Dr. Ann Preston, of the Pennsylvania Female Medical College,
writes me: "Of those in practice who graduated with us, quite a number
have found it very remunerative, and the prospect for others to secure
practice is most encouraging, if they only possess the requisite
qualifications. The desire to employ ladies as physicians is constantly
extending, and my faith in the triumphant and extensive vindication of the
movement deepens from year to year. There are openings in perhaps nearly
all the cities and villages of our land—certainly in Eastern Pennsylvania;
but in choosing a physician, people must have confidence in the sound
judgment, good character, and professional ability of those they employ. A
woman settling among strangers is more liable to suspicion than a man; and
in such a case it takes time, and a long continuance in well doing, to become
established in a lucrative practice. It also requires means; and unless these
are abundant, it is much better for the lady physician to settle where she is
already known and respected, and where, among her friends, she can live at
small expense. Still, in one or two cases, our students have gone
successfully among strangers, earning enough to bear their expenses during
the first two years. The cost of fitting a lady of moderate abilities for the
practice of medicine varies. The whole cost of two or more courses of
lectures and graduation is $175. Board here is from $3 to $5 a week for
students, everything included. The needful text books would cost from $20
to $25; then travelling expenses, clothes, &c. I have known ladies
commence with only one or two hundred dollars in advance, teach school
during the summers, and graduate in three or four years. Sometimes these

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have come as beneficiaries. Still it is much more comfortable to have six or
seven hundred to depend upon during the course of study. The time also
varies, but we think no person should graduate who has not studied two
years and upward. A large proportion of our graduates have studied
medicine three years, and several have spent the next year in the hospital in
New York. We are about opening a hospital here, which, in case of some,
will obviate this necessity. I believe ladies in practice here generally make
the charges common among men physicians; and several of them realize a
handsome competence, and are gladdened by seeing, year by year, that
prejudice is passing away, and that medicine is proving a fitting and
glorious sphere for the exercise of woman's best powers." There are several
regularly educated female physicians engaged in the practice of medicine in
Philadelphia, some in New York, and some in Boston, with a few in other
cities of the North, South, and West, and here and there scattered through
towns, villages, and the country. There is an opening for one or two well-
qualified physicians in New Orleans that can speak the Italian and Spanish
languages. Many physicians find it an advantage to have a knowledge of the
French and German languages, on account of the large foreign population in
our country. Dr. Elizabeth Blackwell writes: "It is very difficult by letter to
answer your question about medical education. It is almost impossible for a
lady to get a good medical education without going to Europe. Philadelphia
or Boston would give a woman the legal right to practise medicine, and that
is the chief value of what is given, for the exclusively theoretical instruction
of those colleges could be as well obtained by reading and private tuition.
New York can furnish much valuable practical instruction, but not the legal
right. Between the two places, a student who will spend four years may
become a respectable young physician, without going to Europe; but fully
that period of time is necessary to pick up scattered knowledge, &c. A lady
should be able to command $2,000 during the four years. She is otherwise
very much crippled in her studies. There is a real necessity for women
physicians; therefore, in course of time they will be created; but the
imperfect efforts and most inadequate preparation of those who now study,
rather retard the movement, and the creation of practice is a very slow
thing." I called on Mrs. ——, M. D. She goes out at night when called—
sometimes alone, sometimes takes her female student. She thinks there
must be openings South and West, and that the prospect for lady physicians

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is very good. She supposes the cost of a medical education would be about
$1,500. I called on Mrs. ——, M. D., who practises medicine, and often
lectures on diseases and their remedies. She walks to see her patients, or
rides in stages, but the majority come to her dwelling in office hours. She
never goes out at night except where she is acquainted. She has a small
number of students. She has a speciality, but does not confine herself to it.
She attends several families by the year, charging, I think, $200 a year. She
thinks many intelligent ladies might, if they would qualify themselves
thoroughly, succeed in establishing themselves as physicians.

21. Preachers.

A friend once said "the professions of ministers and lawyers ought to
accord. One is the interpreter of the divine law, the other of human law. A
preacher is a lawyer for heaven." The promptings and workings of the
human heart must be well understood by a minister. One in this holy office
should not connive at the faults of her congregation, or give herself up to
the acquirement of popular applause. We think one half the good
accomplished in a church is done by the ladies of the church, particularly
single women. And we know well that ministers are aware of this, and
readily enlist the ladies of their congregations in good works. In old times,
Angela de Foligno was celebrated as a teacher of theology. "In Spain,
Isabella of Rosena converted Jews by her eloquent preaching, and
commented upon the learned Scotus before cardinals and archbishops." In
modern times, two or three ladies have studied theology, and preached with
success. Mrs. Blackwell and Mrs. Jenkins are both said to be ladies of
literary merit and genuine piety. Their mild, amiable, and lady-like
deportment make them beloved by all who are sufficiently acquainted with
to appreciate them. Some one writes: "It seems to me that woman, by her
peculiar constitution, is better qualified to teach religion than by any merely
intellectual discipline." Women are more susceptible to religious
impressions than men. Two thirds of the communicants of our churches are
of that sex. The Quakers, Shakers, and Methodists, we think, are the only
denominations in which women speak in religious meetings. The founder of
the Shakers was a woman—Ann Lee—who established her faith in 1776.

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22. Proof Readers.

The reading of proof has become a regular branch of business. Many of the
large houses in cities where publishing is done, employ persons expressly
for this purpose. We think proof reading opens a charming prospect to the
employment of cultivated women. Girls could just as well be trained to read
manuscripts aloud, for proof readers to correct their first sheets by, as boys.
A proprietor of one of the largest publishing houses in this country kindly
furnished us a reply to the question, what are the duties of a proof reader,
and are ladies ever so employed? Hoping it will not be considered a breach
of courtesy to use the reply, we give it in the words of the writer: "Proof
reading consists in the reading of proofs, marking the errors, and making
the work typographically correct. A good proof reader ought to be a
practical printer, as there are a thousand minute details which one can
hardly learn except by daily experience at the composing case and imposing
stone. In addition to this he should have more or less knowledge of various
languages, ancient and modern, and be well informed in history, art, and
science. Proof reading is considered the best situation in a printing office;
and the most intelligent printers usually gain and hold these situations. We
know of no case in which this duty is performed by a woman; the cases
must be rare indeed in which one has had an opportunity to qualify her for
performing its duties. Moreover, it is a position the duties of which must be
performed in the printing office." It is true that proof reading must be done
in the printing establishment; but separate rooms, we believe, are always
provided for proof readers. So ladies need not be frightened by supposing
they must do their reading in the composition room. One of the firm of the
Boston Stereotype Foundry writes: "We employ but three young ladies to
read proof, and pay from $3 to $5 per week. They are Americans, and work
nine hours. At one time we employed women in the type-setting
department, who received two thirds of the price paid to men. Women are
paid less than men because they are women, and because plenty can be
found. Women possessing a good English education can learn in two
months—if apt, become expert. They commence at $3, and finally get $5.
The prospect of employment is good for a few. Occasionally there is a dull
time, which affords opportunity for a little sewing, &c. Unless very dull, the
occupant retains her position and wages. Good workmen consider women

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an innovation. To sum up the whole matter in a few words, women (barring
the heavy work) can perform the labor appertaining to proof reading and
type setting as well as men." A lady told me that one of her daughters assists
her father with his newspaper. She reads the proof, looks up articles he
wants, helps select matter for the paper, and translates French stories for his
paper. Her services are worth to him from $500 to $600 a year. On visiting
the Bible House, I learned that a lady is there employed as proof reader. She
corrects both in English and German. Four or five male proof readers are
employed, but she is the only lady. She gets $5 or $6 a week. The principal
proof reader gets $12 a week. "Accuracy, quickness of eye, thorough
knowledge of orthography, grammar, and punctuation, with a knowledge of
languages, and a vast deal of learning and general intelligence, are
necessary for a proof reader. An intuitive perception, arising from this
cultivation, enables one to detect errors immediately, often without knowing
how and why."

23. Publishers.

We find in the census report of Great Britain, 923 women reported as
booksellers and publishers. What the number of publishers alone is we
cannot tell, nor do we know whether any of them conduct the business on
their own responsibility, or whether they are widows, and have men to
conduct the business for them. We know of two large publishing houses in
New York that pay 10 cents on the dollar to an author for the manuscript of
any book they see proper to publish; that is, for a book they will sell at retail
for $1, and at wholesale for 60 cents, the author receives 10 cents, which
gives the publisher 50 cents for getting up the book and running the risk of
selling it. If the author incurs the expenses of getting the book up, they may
allow 15 cents. They will pay no larger a percentage for any subsequent
edition than for the first. But they will not undertake a book unless they
think they can make money out of it. The same book might be printed and
stereotype plates cast at 85 cents a volume. The author could then sell it for
65 cents a copy to the book merchants, and they would sell it at 90 cents a
volume. After the first edition of one thousand, the author could probably
get it printed at 40 cents on the volume less. If the book takes, the merchant

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may allow the author twelve to fifteen per cent. Some publishers purchase
the copyrights of books they think may succeed, paying a specified sum, as
agreed on with the author. Publishers calculate to have two out of every
three books fail that are brought into market. Some publishers sell for
authors on commission. The authors get up their own books, and the
publisher sells, receiving forty per cent. from the retail price. He sells to the
trade at a discount of from twenty-five to thirty-three per cent., according to
amount and distance. The average discount would be thirty per cent. This
leaves the publisher ten per cent. to transact all the business, advertise, &c.
From the first edition the publisher will not be likely to derive any profit;
but if the book takes, the publisher will make a handsome profit from the
subsequent editions.

24. Readers to the Working Classes.

In China, at almost every store where cups of tea are sold, a number of men
make it a business to read to those that come in to buy or drink tea. A
gratuity is bestowed by such as feel disposed. The working classes that are
not able to read and buy books, are thereby enabled to have the benefit of
those that can. Now we do not see why the same principle may not be
carried out in this country. Shakspearian readings, it is true, have been
popular and fashionable for a few years. We have seen it stated that "seven
of Fanny Kemble Butler's recent Shakspearian readings in New York city
netted the fine sum of $6,000." Beside, lectures have been delivered and
poems recited, mostly of the readers' composition. Now might not
competent ladies make it useful to the working classes of their own sex, or
even both sexes, to spend an evening, occasionally, in reading to them?
Charging a small entrance fee, if there is a good attendance, would support
the reader, and enlighten the audience. It would be better if the poor, hard-
working classes had more elevating and refining amusements. We know of
none better calculated to improve while it entertains than reading. Might it
not be done in saloons?—properly qualified men in the gentlemen's
department, and properly qualified women in the ladies' department. In our
large cities, where time is so precious, many a lady, we doubt not, would
give an additional sixpence to have a book she carries with her or the papers

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of the day read aloud while she eats her lunch. The only difficulty is, the
prices paid would scarcely justify one sufficiently qualified for the
undertaking.

25. Reporters.

This is rather a new arena for the exercise of female talent. A reporter must
be a close observer of matters and things in general that pertain to
individual or public affairs. A verbal or written account is furnished to the
publication in which the reporter is interested. A reporter attends public
assemblies of any kind, and writes down or stenographizes the proceedings
of said assembly. In a city, places of amusement, lectures, political and
church meetings, form subjects of interest to a newspaper reporter. Noting
the proceedings of legislative and other legal assemblies forms the most
regular and reliable employment. In London, there are seven publications
that employ from ten to eighteen reporters each, during the meetings of
Parliament. Two from each paper are always in attendance—one in the
gallery of the House of Lords, and another in the gallery of the House of
Commons. A reporter seldom remains more than two or three hours. His
place is taken by another, while he writes out his notes and prepares them
for the press. The reporters are well remunerated, and give very faithful
reports. In the United States, the subscription price of even the very best
papers, and their comparatively limited circulation, will not justify so great
an expense for the reporter's department. Yet most good papers have one or
two reporters. Not long since, a lady stenographer received $1,000 damages
from a railroad company, for an accident that occurred on the car, which
unfitted her for her calling, as it deprived her of the forefinger on her right
hand. A lady reporter, in Boston, writes me: "The art of reporting needs
constant drilling, like music, dancing, &c. Few women have the education
and nerve for professional reporting." A lady teacher of phonography
writes: "A person of common capacity could learn phonography in from
four to six months, studying three hours per day; but to practise for
reporting is quite another thing: that depends upon the unremitting industry
of a person. I know of but two ladies whose business is reporting. It is hard
work, but pays well." This lady also states that her terms of tuition are

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seventy-five cents per lesson of one hour. "Phonographers generally receive
from ten to twenty dollars an hour; and it takes about five or six hours to
write out what may be spoken in an hour, if done by one person. With an
amanuensis, it takes about four hours of writing to one of speaking."
Several ladies are acting in Ohio and Michigan as phonographic reporters.
Mr. James T. Brady, in a public speech in New York, said: "Without
disparagement to his friends who were here engaged in catching the
extemporized words of the speaker, he really would be happy to see the day
when women, who had the capacity, should be engaged in making reports."
"Among the American Indians, the women, being present at councils,
preserve in their memories the report of what passes, and repeat it to their
children. They have traditions of treaties a hundred years back, which, when
compared with our writings, are always exact." A telegraphic reporter told
me a first-class reporter can earn from twenty-five to thirty dollars for three
or four hours' labor. It requires a knowledge of stenography, of which there
are several teachers in New York, and which can be learned in a short time.
Some reporters are paid by the week; and some by the page of foolscap,
which is considered, I think, as counting eighty words. Mr. B., a reporter of
New York, had a sister in Washington with him, ten years ago, who attended
the sittings of Congress, and took notes, and wrote them out fully. Her
brother then revised and sent them to the press. Another lady attempted it
for the Tribune, but was ridiculed, and very foolishly gave it up. I was told
that Mrs. W., wife of a reporter for the Tribune, took notes of Dr. Chapin's
sermon on Thanksgiving day, and made a report for the Tribune, with which
the readers of the paper were well satisfied. The reply of Mr. Webster to Mr.
Hayne was saved by Mrs. Gales, the wife of one of the Congressional
reporters, by writing out her husband's short-hand notes, which he for the
lack of time found it impossible to do. Otherwise that remarkable speech of
an eminent orator would have been lost. Mr. L. remarked to me: "A reporter
in New York has to move and write with railroad speed. Everything needs
to be done with a rush; and so dense are crowds, that a woman would have
to lay aside hoops to make her way."

26. Reviewers.

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A reviewer of new books should be a rapid reader and of quick
understanding. A reviewer should also be a person of judgment. The vast
number of books now published might afford employment, and a good
compensation, we suppose, to those so engaged. But too often publishers
use a moneyed influence in giving a false reputation to their publications.
Frequently the editors of magazines and newspapers are their own
reviewers. We heartily wish that reviewers would endeavor to check the
circulation of some of the light literature of the day. We refer not so much to
that which is vapid—unsubstantial—wanting stamina—as that which is
impure—immoral. Much is of a kind to open the floodgates of vice and
crime. Stories cast in the old-fashioned mould of hair-breadth escapes,
marvellous incidents, and impossible events, are less popular than formerly.
No doubt much reading is done as a recreation—to forget one's self—to
banish care—to unbend from severe study: let such reading at least be pure
and chaste. Books undoubtedly exercise a great influence over the
disposition, taste, and character; and reviewers have it much in their power
to direct the general taste for books. They can do much toward forming a
high and correct literary tone in society. The number of those who devote
themselves to the review of new books in England is small—in the United
States, still smaller. How they are paid I am unable to learn.

27. Teachers.

Teaching, in its various branches, would form a large volume; but we will
endeavor to take as general, yet comprehensive, a view of the subject as our
limits will permit. The instruction of youth has ever been an honorable and
useful calling: in an enlightened and refined community an institution of the
first class always stands high. The influence of a teacher over her pupils is
almost unbounded. Pupils watch the looks and actions of their teachers with
a closeness of observation surprising to those unaccustomed to children. A
teacher should strive to be consistent, for any palpable inconsistency will
greatly lessen the respect of scholars. There are many systems of teaching;
many plans; many theories. Much may be learned from visiting schools,
and selecting, for one's own use, such improvements as suggest themselves.
But the most valuable assistant in teaching is a thorough and extensive

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knowledge of mental and moral philosophy. They bear directly on the
subject. They will prove the best guides, if penetration and judgment,
patience and perseverance are used in the application. There are laws
governing mind just as there are laws governing matter. Learn the opinions
and wishes of parents as far as possible, but always act independently.
Never permit yourself to be trammelled by them. The European method of
giving instruction is by lectures. The plan is used in the professional schools
of our country, and to some extent in our colleges, but in our seminaries,
academies, and high schools the method is seldom practised. The inability
of a hearer to apply to a lecturer, in case the subject is not understood, or the
meaning of the lecturer not rightly apprehended, renders the method as a
general thing objectionable to the young and inexperienced. Where students
are instructed by lectures, a thorough examination on the lectures should be
made the day after, and an explanation given if any parts are not rightly
understood. One difficulty with a lecturer to the young is likely to be in
gaining their entire attention, and presenting ideas to them in a clear,
forcible manner. In the majority of girls' schools no oral instruction is given.
Recitations are heard from text books, and frequently the pupils are unable
to understand what they, parrot-like, recite in class. We think a combination
of the two plans mentioned is best; that is, for the teacher to deliver lectures
on some subjects, and hear recitations from text books on others. The more
oral instruction given by a competent instructor the better. A teacher needs
ability to command order, to promote discipline, and work systematically. A
teacher should endeavor to produce harmony and a proper balance among
the mental faculties, while they are being expanded. No unnatural and
undue prominence should be given to any one of the faculties. Too many
exercise the memory only. Those studies that will be most serviceable to a
pupil should be pursued. Religious principles, common sense, good health,
and a uniformly cheerful disposition are necessary to make a good teacher.
A teacher should well understand the springs of human action. Add to these,
ability to discriminate, perfect command of temper, unwearied
perseverance, patience that never flags, and tact for imparting knowledge,
and you have the desiderata for a most excellent teacher. If there is any
office in life that calls for the exercise of every virtue, it is that of a teacher.
It is the most responsible office in life except that of parent. Teaching is a
vocation peculiarly fitted to women, and will ever be open to women of

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superior talents and extensive attainments. In worth and dignity it is inferior
to none of the professions of men. It is finally taking its place among the
learned professions. Female education has been too superficial. A more
thorough and extensive course is needed in most of our schools. Woman
must be taught to think for herself, and to act for herself. She needs to
depend more on her own abilities—requires more self-reliance. Miss
Beecher maintains that there is no defect in temper, habits, manners, or in
any intellectual and moral development, which cannot be remedied. There
are said to be more than 2,000,000 of children in our land out of school, and
requiring 100,000 teachers to supply them. We would not give the
impression that if 100,000 ladies were to prepare themselves to teach, they
would find 100,000 places awaiting them. No; we believe the supply now
fully meets the demand; and we are sorry to see the impression being so
often given by editors and others, that teachers are needed and in demand;
because we think many ladies of limited means are thereby induced to
spend what little they have in preparing themselves to be teachers; and
when they are qualified, ten chances to one, if they get a school, it is only
for three months out of the twelve, and that not regularly. A precarious
subsistence is obtained, and, to those without homes, certainly a most
unreliable one. We love to see ladies educated, and would gladly see them
all qualified to teach; but we do not like to see inducements thrown out to
qualify themselves, under the impression that there are hundreds of places
vacant only because they cannot obtain teachers. There is no employment
more uncertain than that of a teacher. Many causes tend to produce this.
Among them are dissatisfaction on the part of teacher or people, low wages,
the fluctuating condition of country schools at different seasons of the year,
a large mass of people not knowing the advantages of an education, and the
want of endowed institutions of learning. If a lady has sufficient capital to
establish herself permanently as a teacher, she will be far more likely to
succeed. As new places are settled and population advances there will no
doubt be openings, but they will require teachers willing to endure the
hardships and privations incident to a new country. Some lady teachers
might get employment if they would go to the country, but the variety and
excitement of the city they are not willing to relinquish. An active life is
happiest, and none, if well filled, affords more constant employment than
that of a teacher. Evening schools are established in most of our large cities,

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for the accommodation of those that labor through the day. In New York
these schools are in session two hours, and a teacher receives one dollar an
evening. Some lady teachers are employed in schools for the blind and for
the deaf and dumb. In Germany, teachers are treated with a degree of
respect and delicacy that should serve as a model to other countries. The
acquisition of knowledge has long been too mechanical an operation. Girls
are expected to receive as undoubted truths all they meet with in their
school books. They are not taught to pause and consider if statements are
grounded on certain or uncertain premises. They are not taught to exercise
their own thoughts and judgment. School agencies in the large cities of the
North are establishing branches in the South and West. Where there is no
established organization of this kind, families and neighborhoods are often
at a loss how to obtain a governess or teacher, while a teacher is equally at a
loss to know of such situations as she desires. There is considerable
difference in the character and qualifications of the teachers sent out by the
different agencies of New York. Connected with these agencies might be a
means of communication for obtaining amanuenses, copyists, and
translators. Few parents are willing to intrust their children to those who are
not trained for their business. The establishment of schools for the
preparation of teachers is one of the great inventions of the age. There is
one in almost every State. There was, and probably still is, an educational
association, that centres in New York city, which has for its object the free
instruction of a limited number of young ladies desirous of preparing
themselves for teachers. One of the institutions is in Dubuque, Iowa; the
other in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. The principal of the Normal School, New
York, receives $600 a year, and he does not hear a single recitation. He
spends five hours in the room every Saturday, which, for all the year of 48
weeks, equals 240 hours—nearly $3 an hour, merely for the light of his
countenance. The number of governesses in England is very large. Their
duties are more severe and their remuneration less than in any other
country. In the United States, governesses receive higher salaries in the
Southern than the Northern States, and are treated more like members of the
family. The salaries of teachers are also higher, but it costs more to live in
the South. One way in which so many men get situations as teachers to the
exclusion of females, "may be attributed, in a degree, to favoritism of Odd
Fellows' and other social and political bonds." As time advances, more

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attention will be given by the ladies to special branches of education. There
will be professors of mathematics, languages, &c., just as there are in male
institutions. Each one will cultivate most highly a knowledge of that science
to which her talents and wishes incline. In the public schools of New York,
there are thirty-nine gentlemen conducting the male departments, who
receive a salary of $1,500 per year; while, of the lady principals of the
female departments, there are only ten getting a salary of $800, the highest
salary paid a lady in the public schools of New York. There are said to be
1,183 female teachers in New York city. In Louisville, Ky., the gentleman
principals of the grammar schools receive a salary of $1,000 a year, the lady
principals $650. In the male and female high schools, the principals receive
$1,600 a year. The lady preceptress in the female high school has a salary of
$900. The lady who teaches mathematics in the Female Presbyterian
College of Louisville receives a salary of $900. In Chicago, the maximum
salary of female teachers is $400 a year. In the Cleveland Female Seminary,
in 1854, the lady teacher of rhetoric and English literature received a salary
of $500 and board; of English branches, $500 and board; of history, $500
and board; of mathematics, $500 and board. We have seen it stated that
female teachers are growing scarce in Maine, because the wages are so low.
"At the New York Central College for students of both sexes, there is one
female professor in the faculty, and she receives the same salary as the other
members, and has the same voice." It is a manual labor school, where the
same justice is not exercised in regard to the pupils, as the "male students
get eight cents per hour for labor, females but four cents an hour." In the
twelfth ward of New York city, the subject of paying lady teachers the same
salaries as those of the other sex was agitated last winter: the result I did not
hear. Higher prices are paid to lady teachers in Boston than any other city of
the United States, except the cities of California, where ladies conducting
the same branches as gentlemen receive as good salaries. The majority of
teachers in San Francisco are ladies. In the United States there are 150,000
teachers in the public schools, and 4,000,000 scholars. "There is one scholar
for every five free persons; in Great Britain there is one scholar to every
eight persons; in France, one to every ten persons." According to an
estimate made by Rev. T. W. Higginson, there are in fourteen of the United
States, in all schools, both public and private, 152,339 male teachers, and
162,687 female teachers. In the New England States, according to his

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estimate, there are 45,619 male teachers, and 87,645 female teachers. In the
Western States, settled mostly by New Englanders, we find the proportion
of lady teachers greatest. We hope the number of lady teachers may increase
in the different States in proportion to the increase of the population. In
Brooklyn, L. I., there is a female seminary endowed by Mrs. Packer, which
usually, we believe, has an attendance of between 300 and 400 pupils.
"Matthew Vassar, Esq., of Poughkeepsie, it is said, has devoted a sum
which will soon amount to $400,000 to the endowment of a college for girls
in that city. He hopes to make it a rival of Yale, Brown, and Harvard. It is
not to be free, but the tuition rates will be very low. In the plan provision is
made for a library, cabinets, apparatus, galleries of art, botanical gardens,
and the like. If well carried out, this institution may be a lasting monument
to the wisdom and benevolence of Mr. Vassar."
28. Teachers of Bookkeeping. In the catalogue of Comer's Commercial
College, Boston, we find the following statement: "As an inducement to
ladies to prepare themselves for mercantile employments, a discount of
twenty per cent. from the terms for gentlemen is made, although the course
of instruction is precisely the same." Twelve free scholarships have been
founded in the institution for deserving cases of either sex. With all large
commercial schools is now connected a separate department for ladies; and
efforts are made by the principals to obtain situations for their pupils as they
leave school. A letter from Misses McIntire and Kidder, Boston, states: "We
have been engaged in preparing ladies for bookkeepers, saleswomen, &c.,
for the past ten years. It was at first difficult for ladies to obtain such
situations; but as those who did succeed gave entire satisfaction, others
were induced to give them a trial; and now they are very generally
employed in our retail stores, at prices varying from four to eight dollars per
week, and a few at a still higher salary. The time required for a person who
has received a common English education, is from six weeks to three
months. The terms for the complete course in bookkeeping, which embraces
improvement in writing, with rapid methods of calculating interest and
averaging accounts, are $14; and for bookkeeping only, $12; and three
months' time is allowed. The chances for obtaining employment are very
favorable, as more situations are opened to them every year. Each student is
instructed separately and assistance rendered in obtaining employment.

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Bookkeepers are usually employed ten hours a day. The employment is not
so unhealthy as needlework. Women are superior to men in faithfulness in
the performance of duties." The principal of a mercantile college in
Brooklyn says he thinks "many ladies might obtain employment as
bookkeepers, if they would only properly qualify themselves for the duties.
He had six or seven lady pupils that are now employed as bookkeepers in
New York. Their compensation depends on their abilities and the amount of
labor they have to perform. They are not so well paid as male bookkeepers.
Much depends on the kind of friends a lady has to secure her a place. It is
the same case with a young man. If he acquires a reputation for integrity
and faithfulness, he may get even as much as $2,500; while one more
obscure and unknown may be as competent, but not able to command more
than one third as much. So, one may have to work but a few hours; another,
from eight in the morning until twelve at night. Some have a great deal to
do in some seasons, and but little in others; while some are kept nearly
equally busy all the year." This gentleman charges $10 for instruction. Mr.
D., who teaches writing, bookkeeping, and arithmetic, in New York, gives
private instruction to ladies at his rooms. They are comfortably fitted up. He
charges for bookkeeping, practical course of twenty lessons, $15; unlimited
course, $25;—arithmetic, commercial course of twenty lessons, $10; of
sixty lessons, $20. His charges for all branches required to prepare pupils
practically for business are, for one month, two or three hours per day, $15;
three months, $30; for twenty lessons in writing, public room, $10; private
room, $15. Mr. B., of the firm of B. S. & Co., says a person of good
abilities could learn bookkeeping in one month, by spending most of the
day at it. His price for ladies is $25. It entitles them to an attendance at one
of their branch schools, of which there are eight in the Northern and
Western cities. They endeavor to secure places for those who learn
bookkeeping with them. They also assist their pupils to open books when
they have obtained situations. Millinery establishments, trimming and fancy
stores, &c., are the kind that mostly employ women as bookkeepers. Many
wives of business men learn bookkeeping, that they may keep their
husbands' books.
29. Teachers of Gymnastics and Dancing. Dancing, calisthenics, and
gymnastics furnish excellent exercise for young people, and in many

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boarding and day schools for young ladies gymnastics are now taught. A
lady teacher of calisthenics and gymnastics told me that in winter a fire is
kept in the dressing room, and in very cold weather the practising room is
warmed a little. Gymnastics are performed with apparatus. Calisthenics are
arm exercises. The terms of this teacher are $6 for one month, $15 for three
months, and $20 for six months' tuition. In New York and Philadelphia
there are schools where instruction is given to girls as well as boys in
gymnastic exercises. At one gymnasium in New York the terms are $16 a
year for tuition, $10 for six months, and $7 for three months. At a ladies'
gymnasium in Brooklyn, I was told by the instructress that her prices for
tuition are $4 a quarter in summer, giving three lessons a week. A physician
prescribes the kind and amount of exercise necessary.
30. Teachers of Drawing and Painting. There is scarcely any branch of
mechanical labor in which a knowledge of drawing is not an advantage.
Correct drawing is essential to the success of an artist; but coloring is
something very difficult and desirable, particularly the coloring of the flesh.
It is indispensable to the portrait painter. A lady artist of some note told me
that artists do not ground themselves in drawing as they should; that
drawing tells almost the whole story of a picture: coloring only gives beauty
and adds strength. She thinks there are many openings in the South and
West for first-class teachers of drawing and painting. Miss G. received a
salary of $800, as teacher of painting in the School of Arts in Baltimore. It
is folly for any one to devote herself to art as a career, unless she has some
genius and a fondness for it. Mrs. H., of Boston, the wife of the sculptor,
has supported her family by painting and giving instruction in the art.
Teachers in oil painting are well compensated, if they have pupils enough to
occupy all their time. Prices vary in cities from fifty cents a lesson of one
hour to two dollars. Art classes have been formed, both in New York and
Philadelphia. Some artists receive pupils, but the time required for
instruction renders it objectionable to most. Miss G. charges $15 a quarter
of twenty-four lessons, two hours each. In ordinary times, she gives but one
hour's instruction at a lesson. Miss J. charges $10 dollars for instruction in
oriental painting. Mrs. C. was profitably engaged, in Providence, in
teaching drawing and taking crayon portraits. One lady, who taught for
several years with success, charged fifty cents a lesson, the pupils attending

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at her room. Those working in crayon in the New York school draw almost
entirely from casts; those in the Philadelphia school, from plates. There is
now a life school in New York, where instruction is given at $20 per quarter
of eleven weeks—two lessons a week. For instruction in drawing from
plates, $12 per quarter of eleven weeks. In some of our public schools,
drawing is taught free of expense to the scholars.
31. Teachers of Fancy Work. The accomplishments of women are
useful in their times and places. Music and drawing are elegant
accomplishments, the earliest as well as the most universal pastimes known.
Those teachers of accomplishments that have acquired a reputation can
command in a city a high price. At Madame D.'s, crochet work and
embroidery are taught at 25 cents a lesson of one hour. Misses H.,
Philadelphia, give five lessons in leather work for $6, and charge, for giving
instruction in wax fruit and flowers, paper and rice paper flowers, &c., $1 a
lesson; in embroidery in silk, gold bullion, &c., $15 for twenty lessons—the
same for hair flowers and bead work; for the arrangement of shells with
mosses and grasses, $1 a lesson. Madame N., who teaches crochet work and
fancy knitting, charges 50 cents an hour. One stitch can be learned by a
quick person in an hour. She thinks there is plenty of that kind of work to
supply all and even more hands than are so occupied. She employs a
number, and pays by the piece. They work at home, and can earn from $3 to
$4 a week.
32. Teachers of Horsemanship. The prices of the riding school, New
York, attended by the most aristocratic classes, are: 16 lessons, $20; 10
lessons, $15; 5 lessons, $8; single lessons, $2; road lesson, one pupil, $5;
two or more pupils, each $3. For exercise riding, single ride, one hour,
$1.50; single ride, half hour, $1. After taking 16 or more lessons, the prices
are somewhat reduced. At another riding school in New York, the terms are:
20 lessons for gentlemen, $25; 20 lessons for ladies, $20; 10 lessons for
gentlemen, $15; 10 lessons for ladies, $12; single lessons, $2. The rules are
very good, and laid down in the circulars. At another riding school in New
York the prices are: $20 for 20 lessons, $12 for 10 lessons, $7 for 5 lessons;
single lessons, $1.50; road lessons, one person, $5; road lessons, three or
more, each $3; 20 exercise rides for $15; evening rides for $1; road rides,

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10 for $8; single, $1; road ride to a lady, $2.50. The regulations are very
good. The expenses for keeping up a riding school are considerable; so it
may not prove as profitable as the prices would seem to indicate.
33. Teachers of Infant Schools. Teaching is interesting to those that love
children. But I would say, let not those without patience and tenderness, or
those whose feelings can in an hour change from the boiling to the freezing
point, attempt to teach young children. In ordinary schools, young children
are liable to be either cramped or stunted. If children must be placed at
school early, let it be where they can exercise their little bodies frequently,
and not be confined in school long at a time. To accomplish this, we think
the infant school the most efficient. Lord Brougham gives it as his opinion
that a child learns more the first eighteen months of its life than at any other
period; and that it settles, in fact, at this early age, its mental capacity and
future well-being. Mr. Babbington fixes the period of the first nine years as
the seedtime of life. Some object to infant schools, on the ground that they
divert the mind, and unfit it for continued and concentrated thought in after
life. But we cannot think so, unless the course is pursued an unreasonable
length of time. The first two years of a child's schooling may be passed
profitably in an infant school; at any rate, if the child enters as early as six
years of age. Indeed, we think the variety embodied in the infant-school
system is one of its most pleasing and useful features. The minds of
children cannot rest long on any one subject, any more than their bodies can
retain the same posture long at a time. It stagnates thought, prevents
boldness of spirit, and stunts the growth of a young child to sit quiet hour
after hour. Some mothers send their children early to school to have them
out of their way. Such children could be more pleasantly and more
efficiently taught in an infant school than in any other. Yet, we are rather
inclined to the opinion that a child should be taught the alphabet at home.
Gentle but firm treatment is necessary for children, who need much
sympathy and affection; and it therefore requires the greatest patience on
the part of a teacher, in order to conduct an infant school successfully.
Infant schools are scarce in the United States; but still they exist in some
parts of New England. There was an infant school in Troy, some time ago
(and perhaps it is still in existence), in connection with one of the public
schools. The infant-school system has been partially adopted in some of the

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public schools of our Western cities; and the same system applied to
Sabbath schools has been extensively and happily carried into effect, both
in the South and West. There are several infant Sabbath schools, of which
we know, numbering considerably over one hundred children. These
schools are usually conducted by ladies. The exercises are varied, as in day
schools, and consist generally of chanting responses, catechism,
memorizing from cards, telling Bible stories, lecturing, explaining pictures,
singing, &c. This order of exercises, sustained in a lively manner, cannot
fail to interest children, and make the school room for them a happy and
longed-for place. Nature itself points out the course to be pursued in the
education of a child: first, physical training; second, moral training; and
third, mental training. Mind and body are so closely united that an injury to
one is resented by the other. One is placed as a protector to the other, and
will not permit injury to its companion with impunity.
34. Teachers of Languages. A knowledge of Latin is desirable for ladies
that expect to devote much time to books. The study of it is fine discipline
for the mind. The German and French are studied by many ladies: the
French more for the purposes of light literature and conversation; the
German by those that wish to dive into metaphysics. These languages are,
both, useful to ladies engaged in stores: the French mostly in New York city
and in the South; the German more at the North and West. In Italy, at
different times from the fifteenth to the nineteenth century, learned women
occupied chairs in the universities, as professors of music, drawing,
philosophy, mathematics, and the languages, both ancient and modern. The
author of "Women and Work" says: "Women should teach languages and
oratory. Aspasia taught rhetoric to Socrates. The voice of woman is more
penetrating, distinct, delicate, and correct in delivering sounds than that of
man, fitting her to teach both languages and oratory better." The prices paid
for private instruction in the languages are higher than when received in a
class, and run from 25 cents an hour to $1. A language is best taught by a
native of the country in which said language is spoken.
35. Teachers of Music. Vocal music is taught in most of our schools, and
is required to be taught in the public schools of Germany and Prussia. In
Germany, instrumental music is also taught free of charge. It is not

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uncommon to see a German mechanic performing on the piano.
Instrumental music is probably the most expensive accomplishment
attending the education of a young lady. Music is more generally cultivated
in the United States than any other accomplishment. It is better appreciated
by the mass, and, consequently, becomes more ingrafted in the national
element. In a few years our musicians will probably equal the most
celebrated of Europe. A skilful musician need never suffer in America. If
competent to give instruction in music, there will be opportunities to do so
in our cities. Most seminaries require one teacher of music, and often two or
more.
36. Teachers of Navigation. "One of the best and most popular teachers
of navigation and nautical mathematics and astronomy in England is a lady,
Mrs. Janet Taylor. Her classes are celebrated, and numerously attended by
men who have been at sea as well as by youths preparing for the merchant
service." Not long since, she received a gold medal and a premium of £50
annually from the British Government.
37. Teachers of Swimming. There is a swimming school in Paris,
containing as pupils ladies of all stations in life. Swimming schools for both
sexes have been established in New York. In the one for ladies and girls
instruction is given by one of their own sex, and a charge made of 25 cents
a lesson. From the New York Observer we copy an article: "A few years
ago, a gentleman well known in the philanthropic world established a
school in New Jersey, not far from New York, with the intention of making
physical training a prominent part of his educational system. He began with
his own children and a few others. The school has gradually grown until it
numbers eighty pupils, both boys and girls. Every pupil at this school is a
gymnast; every one can row a boat; and every one, down to the smallest
girl, can swim. The boys and girls are formed into separate boat clubs,
seven to each club, rowing six oars, with the seventh for coxswain. So they
row races whenever the weather permits, and they do not mind a little rough
weather. Every day, too, during the warm season, they all have a swim. The
boys swim by themselves; and the girls, in suitable bathing dresses, go
elsewhere, with a teacher. One year of such training and exercises will lay
up stamina for a lifetime." A school has been commenced in New York for

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teaching swimming out of the water, by machinery. The prices are 25 cents
a lesson in a class, and $1 a lesson for private instruction.

38. Translators.

Translations published in the United States are mostly made in England.
Some languages are susceptible of a much more correct and graceful
translation than others. It requires study to get the exact meaning of some
authors, and taste and genius to convey that meaning. A literal interpretation
will not always convey the meaning of an author as well as a looser
translation getting more the spirit of the original. A person should have
general information on the subject to be treated. A translator of history must
be a good historian. It requires time to establish a reputation as a translator,
but even a translator's career must have a beginning. Dr. G., who has charge
of the editorial department of one of the most extensively circulated
magazines in the United States, says translations from French and German
are not so well liked in magazines as original matter, and anything to be
translated for his magazine he does as a recreation from more serious
duties. Owing to the international copyright law of England and France, a
French author will send his manuscript over to England and have it
rendered, securing the right to the translation. The translation often makes
its appearance very nearly as soon as the original. Most of the valuable
works in French have been translated. Mr. W. told me, however, that there
are some scientific French works that might be rendered into English, and
some on mechanics; but it would require some one acquainted with the
subject, on account of the technical terms. Dr. G. thinks the chances a
thousand against one that an individual could find constant employment
translating. He has frequent applications from translators for work in that
line. So we have reason to think translating is a very precarious occupation.
The best way is to find some French book that will be popular in America,
and translate it, and offer it to a publisher. Some translators look over
catalogues of foreign books and examine such as they think will be likely to
please. They take it to the publisher, who, if he thinks it will be available,
gives the individual the task, if they can settle on satisfactory terms. A lady,
who translates considerably, told me that she receives $5 a page for a

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finished translation from the French for magazines. Books are generally
done for so much, according to the contract of the parties. The price charged
for verbal translation would doubtless depend on the amount of time
consumed; but for a written translation, the charge would be made by the
page or volume. In most of the Government departments translators are
employed, and their salaries are no doubt good. Interpreters are also
employed in some of the courts, but they usually unite their occupation with
that of copyist. In some private establishments interpreters are employed.
Where there is sufficient business to occupy all the time of a lady, she
would doubtless find her services as an interpreter lucrative.

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ARTISTIC PURSUITS, AND EMPLOYMENTS
CONNECTED WITH THE FINE ARTS.

39. Actresses.

The circumstances under which a play-actor's life are seen are calculated to
please the young and susceptible. They put a false estimate on the pleasures
it affords. They are apt to forget that the moments in which performers
appear on the stage all sparkling as the diamond sands and crystal pebbles
of a brook, are the principal, perhaps the only bright ones of their lives.
Many a sad spirit, many a broken heart is concealed under the glittering
tinsel. We are not among those who denounce the theatre as a school of vice
and infamy—nor could we conscientiously laud it as a school of virtue. We
think the influence and effects depend very greatly upon the character of the
plays; much, too, depends upon the individuals of the audience. There is no
amusement that may not suffer in the abuse. Late hours, intoxicating drinks,
and bad companions, in many cases form the curse of regular theatre-goers;
and for these the plays (perhaps harmless in themselves) are charged with
being demoralizing. Good plays have an intellectual fascination. We think
the drama might be made more a school of instruction and innocent pastime
—less a school of evil tendencies. In China and Japan, the female parts in
theatrical performances are never executed by women. No women ever
appeared on the stage of the Greeks or Romans. Even the female characters
in Shakspeare were not represented by women in his time. The first lady
that appeared on the stage took the parts of Juliet and Ophelia in 1660. The
publicity attending the life of an actress makes it repulsive to many, and the
egotism that the profession engenders is an objectionable feature. That there
are good and virtuous people connected with the theatre we cannot for a
moment question; but some of the men are worthless and dissipated, and
many of the girls and women engage in it because they see no other way of
earning their bread. Many a ballet girl has danced to support an infirm
mother or orphan brothers and sisters. The roving life of an actress and want

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of home influences are not conducive to the growth of domestic virtues. Yet
some actresses have married advantageously in Europe, and been respected
in social life, not less for their virtues than their talents. The craving of
admiration incident to the calling is apt to make an actress vain. Her
fondness for excitement, and her consciousness of importance in the eyes of
those who patronize her, furnish additional fuel to the fire. If she makes a
failure, she may die of chagrin. Mr. B., a dramatic agent, thinks there is
always a supply as soon as there is a demand for dramatic performers. They
cannot enter and leave the profession, like any other. They must be actively
engaged in it all the time, or leave it. Their talents must be carefully
considered, and they placed in the company that requires them, and in such
places as suit their talents. If a play in which they excel is to be performed
in a distant city, they accompany the troupe to which they belong. A
company consists of a combination of various talents. The number
employed is not fluctuating, but they change their localities often; that is, go
from city to city and town to town, shifting their place as seems best. They
are compensated according to talent and proficiency—from $3 a week to
$150. They are usually paid according to the contract made with them. I
think the voice of actors when off the stage is peculiar. It is deep and
hollow, as if trained to be thrown to a distance. By the drama two of the
senses which afford most pleasure are entertained—the eye and the ear.
Madame Celeste made $50,000 clear in this country; Essler, $70,000. The
play, "Our American Cousin," is said to have cleared $40,000 in New York.
Mr. P., a dramatic agent, told me that actresses are paid according to their
position and talent. A ballet girl is paid from $3 to $6 a week, if by the
season. Wallack pays $5 or $6. Utility people are paid from $6 to $10.
Prices depend very much on who and what the people are, and the class of
theatre by which they are employed. Those of the better class are paid from
$25 to $60 a night. When they are not required they are not paid anything.
In Europe, some of the theatres are open during the summer. In New York a
paper has lately been commenced, devoted almost exclusively to the drama.
"Our great star actors, Mr. Forrest or Miss Cushman, command their
hundreds of dollars a night. The handsome Brignoli or the ponderous
Amodio will not dispense their silver notes short of fabulous thousands of
golden dollars per month. Those who try the life of an actor speedily
discover that, of all hard-working men, few render more constant, wearing,

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unceasing labor for their money, than those who conscientiously do their
duty in a theatre. Multitudinous and constantly varying requirements are
made of an actor who has achieved a leading position. He must be a
linguist, an elocutionist, a fencer, a dancer, a boxer, a painter (for the proper
coloring or 'making up' of his own face and figure is no small part of his
art), a soldier (so far as a knowledge of military drill and the manual
exercise is concerned); and he should be a singer, and a bit of an author. In a
theatre where a drama unfamiliar to the company is produced every night,
or in case of a new 'star,' who plays his own pieces, a day's work of an actor
may be set down as follows: To learn by heart a part not exceeding six
'lengths' (a length is forty-two lines), attend rehearsal from ten to one or
two, and act at night in one or two pieces. That is, six lengths new study,
rehearsal, and playing at night, is what may be required of an actor for a
day's work, without giving occasion for grumbling at the managers. There
are many actors who, upon an urgent occasion, will study from ten to
fifteen lengths in a day, besides attending to their other duties. This,
however, is never required except in case of sudden sickness of another
performer, or some similar extraordinary event. In provincial theatres the
actors are worked much harder than in New York, and paid much less. The
starring system universally prevails, which necessitates a constant
succession of new plays, most of which have to be studied from night to
night, as a play is not often acted two nights in succession in small cities.
But when a piece has a successful 'run,' the actors have no new study for
several weeks. Actors are usually engaged for certain lines of business; that
is, each one engages to perform only such style of characters as he is best
qualified to personate. The remuneration of actors comes next into
consideration, and the scale has a wide range, from $3 a week up to $200 a
night. This last sum was for years the demand of Mr. Edwin Forrest. Other
stars are generally content with certain 'sharing terms;' that is, the gross
receipts, after a certain specific amount has been deducted for the expenses
of the theatre, are equally divided between the star and the manager. Thus,
for example, if the expenses of the house are $300 per night, and the
receipts $400, the lucky star and the fortunate manager pocket $50 each per
night. This is the fairest basis on which to conduct the starring system,
because, by this plan, the salaries of all the stock company are assured first,
and the profit of the star depends on his own power of attracting the public

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to the theatre. In New York the salaries paid to stock actors are higher, on
the average, than those in any other city in the United States. The managers
ignore, to a great extent, the technical 'lines of business,' and engage the
best artists that can be had, and then have plays especially written, in which
each of their leading actors shall have a part suited to his peculiar powers.
While this plan secures to the New York public the finest acting that can be
seen in the country, it also entails upon the managers a salary list of
dimensions that would swamp a provincial theatre in a single week. The
leading actors, as Messrs. Lester, Blake, and Walcot, at Wallack's Theatre;
Messrs. Jefferson, Jordan, and Pearson, at the Winter Garden; Messrs. Mark
Smith and Vincent, at Laura Keene's Theatre, receive from $50 to $100 per
week. Salaries for women are about half, or perhaps two thirds of what are
paid to men holding corresponding positions. General utility men,
supernumeraries, and ballet girls receive from $3 to $10 per week. When an
unusual number of 'ladies of the ballet,' or supernumeraries of the other sex
are required, on some extra occasion, they are specially engaged, at 50 cents
a night, or sometimes for even less money. The salaries on the east side of
the city, at the Bowery Theatre, are lower than on Broadway, the principal
actors seldom receiving more than $35 or $40 per week, and the others are
in proportion. In smaller cities, as Buffalo, Detroit, Chicago, &c., the
highest sum paid to a performer seldom exceeds $25 per week. Actors who
have achieved a position which warrants them in demanding it, stipulate for
a 'benefit' in addition to their salaries. On these occasions, a third or a half
of the gross receipts of the evening is paid over to the performer, according
as his agreement is for a 'third clear' or a 'half clear' benefit."

40. Aquaria Makers.

One of the most innocent and pleasing amusements that has attracted
attention for some time is the making of aquaria. The cases are formed of
plate glass, square, oblong, circular, or any shape to please the fancy of the
owner. The glass is tightly sealed when joined. The aquaria are of two
kinds: one is formed of salt water, and contains marine plants and animals;
the other contains fresh water, and such plants and animals as are found in
rivers and smaller streams. They form a beautiful addition to a garden,

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conservatory, or drawing room. Rocks form the foundation, and the soil on
them furnishes subsistence to the plants. Zoophytes, mollusca, and fish
form the inhabitants of the aquarium. Insects also find a place in this
miniature "ocean or river garden." The size for parlors is from one foot to
three in length. The largest aquaria in this country are now on exhibition at
Barnum's Museum, New York. "They comprise over one thousand
specimens of living animals and vegetation. In these tanks the water is
seldom changed, the natural operations of the plants and animals keeping it
always pure." They are made to order in New York, and we think might
afford a pleasant pastime to some, and pecuniary profit to others. A work
giving directions for making them has been published in New York. The
author is a Mr. Butler, who has got up the mammoth aquaria in Barnum's
Museum. There are two establishments in New York where they may be
ordered, and specimens seen. "Before we leave the margin of the sea, we
must just glance at the smaller occupations pursued there by women. The
most considerable of these was once the gathering and burning of kelp; but
chemical science has nearly put an end to that. There is still a great deal of
raking and collecting going on. In some countries half the fields are
manured with small fish and the offal of larger, and sea weeds and sand.
Then there is the gathering of jet and amber, and various pebbles, and the
polishing and working of them. The present rage for studies of marine
creatures must afford employment to many women who have the
shrewdness to avail themselves of it."

41. Architects.

We scarcely know to what extent this branch of business can come within
the province of woman. Yet it is as practicable, perhaps, as some we
mention. Civil architecture is the only one open to women. In this art we are
as a people little more than novices; yet great improvements are going on.
In a century's time, perhaps, the art in this country will have obtained the
perfection of ancient nations. Properzia di Rossi, born in Bologna, 1490, is
said to have furnished some admirable plans in architecture. The author of
"Women Artists" mentions as designers in architecture, Madame
Steenwyck, of the Dutch school, and Esther Juvenal, of Nuremberg. She

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also gives the name of a lady who was a practical architect in Rome, in the
seventeenth century—Plautilla Brizio—who has left monuments of her
excellence in that species of art. The villa Giraldi, near Rome, is the joint
work of this lady and her brother. "The wife of Erwin von Steinbach
materially assisted her husband in the erection of the famous Strasbourg
cathedral; and within its walls a sculptured stone represents the husband and
wife as consulting together on the plan." The most varied and general
information is desirable for a first-class architect. A knowledge of drawing
and the first principles of geometry are the most important requisites. Some
architects select the materials for the building, which of course requires a
knowledge of the different kinds and conditions of wood, their fitness for
various parts of a building; also, the qualities of iron, stone, brick, and
whatever goes toward making up the building. An architect should also
select the most suitable site for the erection of the intended structure, which
would be decided, to some extent, by the way in which it was to be used.
He also should be able to judge the nature of the soil, and the way in which
a want of fitness may be remedied. Then he must see that the foundation is
securely laid; and, as the building progresses, that the workmen carry out
the details of the plan which he furnishes. Much of this work seems
unsuitable for women; but the making and executing of plans could be very
well done by them. It would give exercise to their taste and inventive
talents. Men employed in architectural drawing earn from $1.25 to $3 a day
of ten hours. Miss H. told me of a wealthy lady in New York who is quite
an architect by nature. Mrs. D. told me of a young lady of her acquaintance
who is gifted with talents that would make a superior architect. She has
planned several houses for her father, who has sold them at an advance of
from $3,000 to $4,000, on account of the convenient arrangement of the
rooms and their tasteful decoration. She displays exquisite taste in the
selection and arrangement of furniture. She is withal economical in her
expenditures. She is a close calculator of the cost of materials, and a great
economist of space.

42. Cameo Cutters.

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There are two kinds of cameo cutting—one with a lapidary's wheel, of hard
stones, as the onyx and the sardonyx. The shell cameos are cut with small
steel chisels, from the white portion of the shell, leaving the chocolate color
for the background. The figures are in relief. The stone is prepared by the
lapidary, and the artist arranges his design according to the capabilities of
the stone. He makes a drawing in paper on an enlarged scale, and a model
in wax of the exact size, and the latter is carefully compared with the stone,
and such alterations made as the markings on the stone seem to require. The
outline is then sketched on the surface, and cut with tools prepared for that
purpose. After it has been properly cut, it is smoothed and polished. In Mrs.
Lee's "Sculpture and Sculptors" we find an account of those that have
engaged in cameo cutting in the United States. Mrs. Dubois, of New York,
cut several cameo likenesses of her friends, and so well did she succeed that
she went to Italy to acquire proficiency in the art; but the artist to whom she
applied said he could teach her nothing—she had only to study the antique.
John C. King, a sculptor of Boston, has also engaged in the art of cutting
cameos; and Peter Stephenson, of Boston, had cut in 1853 between 600 and
700 cameo likenesses. He writes me: "Cameo cutting might be done by
girls, especially the finishing process—polishing. When in Italy, some years
ago, I employed girls to polish my cameos, and paid from 12 to 50 cents
apiece. I think they earned about $1 a day. The employment is not
unhealthy, but confining." Margaret Foley, formerly a member of the New
England school of design, resided in Lowell, and cut cameos at $35 apiece.
She was kept busy in filling orders. The Misses Withers, of Charleston,
S. C., are said to cut cameo likenesses with beauty and skill. I saw Mr. L. a
Frenchman, in New York, copying a likeness from a daguerreotype. He also
copies from life. He learned the business in Paris. He charges $15 for those
large enough for a breastpin, and which it requires him about three days to
make; smaller ones are lower in price. He imports the stones, and furnishes
without extra charge to those for whom he works. A good intaglio worker
can make cameos, but a cameo worker cannot make intaglios. Some men
can never learn the business. It would form a beautiful pastime and a
profitable and refined occupation for a lady, if sufficient work could be
obtained.

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43. Copperplate Engravers.

In a hasty reading of "Women Artists," we find mention made of a number
of ladies occupied at various times, in different European countries, as
copperplate engravers: in the sixteenth century, one in Holland, and one in
Italy; in the seventeenth century, Germany produced seven, France one,
Spain one, and Italy three; in the eighteenth century, Italy two, France one,
and Denmark one. It may have been that some escaped my notice. Mr. S.
told me he knew a family of copperplate engravers; but the daughters are
now married. I saw a lady who engraves on copper; she had an office in
New York. She was willing to instruct a lady on these terms: after the pupil
had acquired about six months' practice, she would allow her half for all the
work she did in six months more; then she could be at liberty to work for
herself. She thinks a year sufficient time to acquire a good knowledge and
practice of card engraving. She had spent a year at it irregularly, having no
instructor, but asking advice and assistance now and then. In that way she
did not obtain the custom she would have done by being known to others.
The patience and careful attention to details requisite, and the sedentary
nature of engraving, render it a more suitable occupation for women than
men. To make a good card engraver, an educated eye, a steady hand, and
ability to form letters gracefully, are the principal requisites. A card
engraver told me he knew a lady who assisted her husband in his work, that
of copperplate engraving. As the people of the United States become
wealthy, and cultivate a taste for the fine arts, engravers will be more
patronized. There is a collection of old and choice copperplate engravings
in the possession of Mr. Plassman, who has a school of art in New York;
there is also such a collection at the Historical rooms in the same city.

44. Daguerreans.

The process consists in concentrating the light of the sun on a metal plate,
so prepared by chemicals as to retain the impression of an image that falls
upon it. The shadow catcher has become almost interwoven with the every-
day realities of life. Prof. Draper speaks of daguerreotyping as introducing a
beautiful work, in which "the fair sex may engage without compromising a

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single delicate quality of woman's nature." Some artists, not content with
moving in the ordinary way from place to place, have cars built that roll on
wheels and are drawn by horses. The daguerrean sleeps in his little home,
and, on the road, far away from a good tavern, can even do his own
cooking, or have it done, in his car. The business has also been carried on
by men in small boats, floating down rivers and stopping at villages and
farm houses. It requires taste and judgment both to make an operator and to
color. Colorers of photographs could, if skilful and constantly employed,
earn $30 a week in large cities. An operator, if busy, works from 9 to 5
o'clock in winter. A wonderful improvement has taken place in the
daguerrean art since its discovery. A lady daguerrean and photographer
writes me: "Ladies are employed in the business as operators, and to
superintend; also to repaint and retouch photographs. With care in the use of
chemicals, I do not consider it particularly unhealthy; less so, I think, than
sewing by hand or machine. No person will do well for himself, herself, or
patrons, who commences business without a good knowledge of it. The
time of learning will depend upon the individual's knowledge of the
sciences bearing on photography, and their talent for the business. It would
vary from two weeks to three months. The labor of the learner is usually
given while learning, and from $25 to $100 besides. Spring and fall are the
best seasons, summer the poorest; but there is no time during the year in
which there is not something to do. I operate and superintend in my own
establishment, and hire a boy only, who does chores. The principal
discomforts of the business are the heat to which we are exposed in summer
(being usually and necessarily near the roof), the smell of chemicals (which
do not unpleasantly affect any one), and the soiling of clothing, which is
more unavoidable with women. The amount of business, and consequently
the location, decide the profits of the business. As the business is attended
with considerable expense, it is necessary, in order to make it pay, to seek a
good location. It is profitable when a person is well established in a
desirable location. I think ladies and children usually prefer a lady artist.
Upon the whole, I think the business quite as suitable for women as men.
There is generally more or less spare time, but a woman is most apt to
occupy such time with fancy work or reading." A daguerrean writes:
"Women are sometimes employed in the reception room to receive ladies—
occasionally, in the operating room. They receive from $3 to $8, according

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to capacity and address. Men generally command better prices, because
they can sometimes perform labor out of a woman's sphere, such as
unpacking goods, carrying packages, and other jobs, not suitable for
women. I think the business as healthy as any indoor business. It requires
from six to twelve months to learn the duties of the operating room; for the
reception room, from one to three weeks. Industry, patience, perseverance,
shrewdness, and suavity of manners, are the necessary qualifications.
Prospect for employment poor, as prices are reduced to almost nothing. All
seasons are nearly alike. November and June are dull. Our women work in
summer from seven A. M. to six P. M. The work averages about eight hours
per day the year through. Men are superior in patience (?) and force of
character. Women are easily discouraged, and liable to be petulant. In many
instances, there is much running up and down stairs, which is harder on
women than men. And there is too much standing for a woman's health."

45. Schools of Design.

Schools of design were established 444 B. C., for the purpose of
improvement in making statuary. The arts declined when Europe was
overrun by barbarous tribes, but in the eleventh century began to recover,
and in 1350 several painters, sculptors, and architects formed an academy
of design at Florence. In Paris there are seven schools of design for males,
and two for females, supported by the city. There are seventy schools of
design in Great Britain, and there is an annual exhibition of their work in
London, where premiums are awarded. It is about twenty years since the
schools were commenced in England. In 1854 nearly I,500 students had
been educated in the School of Arts in Edinburgh. There are schools of
design in New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Boston. The object of
these schools is to give a knowledge of some industrial branches of the fine
arts. "The greater part of the higher order of designs are practically
unavailable, for want of knowledge, on the part of the designer, of the
conditions of the particular manufacture in question. The economic
possibility and aptitude are not studied; and hence, the manufacturers say,
an enormous waste of thought, skill, and industry. This want supplied, a
field of industry practically boundless would be opened to female artists, as

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well as artisans; and it would be an enlightened policy to look to this while
the whole world seems to be opening its ports to our productions." Mrs.
Alice B. Havens writes of the school of design in Philadelphia: "When
novelty and jealousy shall have ceased to excite envy and suspicion among
those who would keep our sex from honest independence, a wide sphere of
employment will be opened by this and similar institutions to educate
intelligent women; for surely, if English manufacturers are not content to be
under the control of foreign influence, our own countrymen can never be."
The largest class of wood engravers is in the school of New York; the
largest for designing on wall paper, in Philadelphia. More time has been
devoted to instruction in drawing in the New York than the Philadelphia
school. Without some practice in drawing, nothing can be accomplished in
either wood engraving or designing. Designing, in some of its branches, is
taught in all of the schools. Designs for paper hangings, calicoes, and wood
engraving receive most attention. Designs for carpets, silks, ribbons,
furniture, lace, plated ware, silver, jewelry, &c., have received but little, if
any attention—those for casts and moulds, no more. If women of taste and
cultivation attain superiority in designing, we doubt not they will reap a
very fair harvest for their work. Lithography, wood engraving, drawing and
painting, are also taught in schools of design. There are now in the school of
design, New York, between 200 and 300 pupils: some are wood engravers,
some designers, and some painters. "The earnings of the pupils in the
classes of drawing and engraving are as varied as their skill and experience,
but are about the same as those of men who have been at those branches of
art the same length of time. Engravers and designers are generally qualified
to work on orders the second year of their practice. With industry and the
use of their whole time during school hours, pupils may expect an increase
of about a $100 a year for several years. The income from the branches of
art taught in the school must always be proportioned to the talent,
experience, habits of application, and rapidity of hand shown by the artist.
The engravers in the school who best understand drawing have the best
work, and even the highest wages. The pupils have the entire benefit of
their earnings." "At Lyons, France, the manufacture of divers stuffs absorbs
the hands of thousands of men and women; but the men, only, enjoy the
privilege of inventing combinations of forms and colors destined to inveigle
the eyes of fashionable caprice." In the school of design, Philadelphia, a

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charge of $9 per quarter is made to amateur pupils for instruction, and a
charge of $4 per quarter to professional pupils. In the school of design, New
York, a charge of $4 per quarter is made to pupils who acquire instruction
as an accomplishment: to those fitting for a profession, no charge is made.
A lady teacher in the New England school of design had a salary of $400.
We will copy an article placed at our disposal on the artistic employments
of women in America. It was written by a former principal of the school of
design in Boston: "The artistic employments of women in this country may
be divided into three classes: 1st, those devoted to the fine arts; 2d, those
engaged in designing and the business departments of the arts; 3d, teachers
of drawing, painting, &c.—1. Under this head comparatively few will be
found; the number, however, is fast increasing, and as avenues of sale for
their works are found, I doubt not that there will be a marked improvement
both in the quality of their work and in the amount paid for their labor. Most
who pursue this department are confined to portrait painting or crayon
portraits. I have seen beautiful portraits in colored crayons executed by
ladies. I regret to say a comparatively small price was given, varying from
$10 to $25, while works executed by men not a whit superior in any respect
would command from $25 to $50, and even more.—2. Designing, and the
Business Department of the Art. This admits of several divisions, and first
we will take designing for textile materials. When women are engaged in
the mills, their labor is very poorly paid for, compared with the payment
made to the other sex. I know of about twenty women who are so engaged.
The prices paid for their labor varies from $1 to $2 per day—men receiving
from $800 to $1,200 and even $1,500 per annum. The difference here,
however, is not so great, when the time given by the two to the necessary
study is compared. Many of the male designers serve an apprenticeship
varying from three to seven years before they are supposed to be fitted to
take the situation of designer in a mill, and even this does not include the
preliminary instruction in the school. Women, on the contrary, after a year
or little more of study, enter the mill on equal terms with the prepared
designer, his pay at the commencement of his engagement usually being
from $1 to $1.50 per day. The employment of women at all in this
department is almost a new thing, and is not yet countenanced to any great
extent. Time, however, will remove all difficulties in the way, and, by
steady perseverance I think woman will be able to show herself superior to

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man in this branch, because it is more in her own domain than in that of
man. When the designs of women are presented to manufacturers and found
acceptable, they will command a price equal to the designs of men. This I
speak from experience, having disposed of designs for silver ware, printed
coach linings, coach lace, paper for walls, calicoes, delaines, and muslins,
and other articles of like nature. These have commanded the same price as
the designs of men, but it is difficult at times to find a market for them. I
remember presenting some designs to a manufacturer, about two years
since, which were very much praised; but when I stated they were made by
ladies, at first it was said to be impossible, and then they sunk in value,
were wrong in the mechanical detail, were not adapted to the purpose for
which they were intended; but, unfortunately for the truth of the latter
statement, they were disposed of to another manufacturer in the same street,
who had formed rather a different idea of the powers of women as
compared with men. A second branch of business art is drawing for
mechanical purposes and patent inventions. There are in this city many
ladies who earn quite a handsome income by drawing for the patent office,
patent agents, &c., the drawings chiefly linear mechanical ones, the
remuneration varying according to ability. Some are paid by the piece, and
others by the day. The day laborers earn from $1 to $2, and in two instances
$2.25 and $2.50 per day. The price of work varies according to size,
intricacy, finish, &c., the rate being nearly that which men receive, in some
instances the same. This requires mechanical knowledge which is not very
often possessed by women, but is a branch of study that would be found
both pleasant and profitable, especially if they were prepared for it by an
elementary course in the public schools. It is not a branch that admits of
much display, and is therefore almost entirely neglected, or taught in such a
way as to be utterly futile for all practical purposes. A third branch is
architectural drawing. I know of but one instance of a woman pursuing this
branch, which is both delightful, useful, and very profitable. Perhaps there
is not any department of the fine arts to which woman might more
successfully devote herself than to this. Such a devotion of woman's power
would tend to abolish the gross deformities we so often see paraded before
our eyes in the streets, in the form of buildings presenting every possible
incongruity of shape and every perversion of the beauty of form. This
requires much study, but would eventually repay for all the time and trouble

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that would be bestowed upon it. A fourth is wood and other engraving. This
commands as high a price as men's labor, when brought into the market; but
when women are employed in engraving establishments, the grossest
injustice is shown them in the inequality of the payments made. A woman
will receive, in the same place, for the same amount of labor, a sum not
exceeding half of that paid to the men in the same employment. In England
this department stands on a perfect equality as regards sex. The quality of
the work being the test of price, it is the same to men as to women, if the
quality is the same.—3. Teachers of Drawing and Painting. This is always
most profitable when pursued independently of the schools. When it is so
pursued, the rate of payment varies from $5 to $25 per quarter, for each
pupil, excepting in the case of very small children, when the prices may be
a trifle lower, but the same would be the case with men as with women. In
most academies the service of teaching in this department is given by
preference to women, and at the same price. When they are engaged simply
as assistants, then a gross inequality begins. A man would be paid say $200
or $300 per annum for one half day a week—a woman $100 or $150 at
most. The reason for this lies deeper than I can divine, but in other instances
when a lower price is paid, it is generally the fault of the individual
employed. There should, if possible (and I conceive it to be so), be a fixed
rate for teaching a certain number of pupils, and so much more additional
for every one added: this would give a general rate for all to make their
demands upon. If more branches, or extended time, or any other demand
was made upon the individual teaching, then they would have some
standard whereby to regulate the extra charges. There is only one feature
which requires to be somewhat changed, and that is a tendency to
superficiality. Women oftentimes commence to teach before they
themselves have taken more than the most elementary steps for their own
improvement. Time will, however, regulate this deficiency; and as the
resources of improvement open to all, those who devote themselves to the
honorable employment of teaching will take all proper steps to fit
themselves for the office.—There is no department of the fine arts—
painting, sculpture, architecture, or manufacturing design—in which
woman may not run an equal race with man, if she takes the same trouble
and care to fit herself for it, and, when fitted, is faithful to her own interests
and her profession. This will never be accomplished by schools of design as

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at present instituted, for they lose their character and become designing
shops. This must be laid aside, and culture, with a general or specific object,
be alone attended to for the time necessary to learn properly and thoroughly
what they are about to practise. Men and women both, now expect to learn
the art of designing fully in the course of six or twelve months. This can
only be done to a limited extent, depending on the powers of the pupil, the
mode of instruction, and the capacity of the teacher to win and to guide
those committed to his or her care. If the profession is entered upon with
unfitness and want of knowledge, then the prices of labor will be
necessarily reduced to a low scale; if with fitness, and a certainty of our
own capacity, we can demand 'a fair day's pay for a fair day's work.' The
interests of this nation demand the production of native designs, and
whenever her children are fully fitted to produce them, are competent to put
their designs side by side with those of other nations and challenge a
comparison, every other obstacle will dwindle into a shadow, and every
difficulty that now stands in the way of woman's natural place, in art at
least, will be finally removed—to which end 'may God speed the plough.'"

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46. Miscellaneous Designers.

Designing is a peculiar, and more a natural than a cultivated talent. A few
years ago, Miss M. drew on stone for the New England Glass Company.
She received $10 a page, which she could generally do in four days,
working only four hours per day. Two men had at different times done the
work for the company, one receiving less, and the other more than she.
Misses L. and R. drew and designed in the carpet factory at Lowell. They
received $1.25 per day. A young lady who designed at the Pacific Mills, in
Lawrence, was said to receive $3 per day. Miss S., who had given but
eighteen months' practice to drawing, designed for ground and painted
glass, and received $6 per week. Designs for toys, dissected pictures,
games, puzzles, &c., are an appropriate filling up of spare moments for a
designer. I was told by an English seller of embroideries, that, in England,
designing and making patterns for embroideries is a distinct business. He
has been at it many years, and does not feel himself perfect yet. It is not
made a distinct branch in this country yet, because there is not enough of it
done. Here a few primary patterns can be arranged and rearranged so as to
answer all the demands of trade. A great deal of money is expended on
monuments, but there is a want of variety in the designs. A wide field is
here opened to operators in this department. Some designers in Boston
write me: "Only a few ladies are employed in our business, for there are not
many who are willing to devote the time necessary to become proficient.
Some are employed in Europe. The employment is not more unhealthy than
sewing. Women are paid according to their proficiency, and earn from $3 to
$15 per week. Women receive the same compensation as men, if they do the
work as well and as fast, but they ordinarily cannot do either. They are not
paid until they have spent two or three years learning. A combination of
artistic and mechanical talent is required. The prospect for employment is
good. There is not much variation in the seasons for work. Ten hours is the
average time required. There are now as many in the business as can find
lucrative or constant employment. It requires not less than five years,
generally more, to be a fair general workman in this business. Boston, New
York, and Philadelphia are about the only places where there is a demand

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for designers. A first-class education and cultivated taste are absolutely
necessary to success."
47. Designers for Calico Prints. This employment is well adapted to
women. It requires taste and ingenuity. Its labors are light, but rather
confining. A person of lively fancy and nice powers of discrimination
succeeds best. The gay, rich, dark colors of winter clothing are not suitable
for summer; nor are the light, delicate ones of summer suitable for winter
clothing. This inviting field of labor, now that it is unbarred to woman, we
hope will be well improved. Let her enter, and she will find sufficient to
"reward a careful gleaner with a valuable sheaf or two." We do not speak of
inventing and preparing designs for calico prints particularly, but of the
general field for designers. Some proprietors engage a designer (here and
there a lady) to stay at their establishments, and devote all their time to the
preparing of designs—paying a fixed salary for the month, year, or any time
specified. Some adopt the same plan in wall-paper establishments. The
price generally paid for a design pattern for calicoes is from $1 to $3.
48. Designers for Wall Paper. One of the most important branches of
designing is that of preparing patterns for wall paper, fire screens, &c. In
the report of the Philadelphia School of Design it is stated that one of the
ladies of that school received $60 for a design some time ago. They seldom
bring that much, and all designs prepared will not sell. The usual price for a
good hall design is from $12 to $20; and of paper for a room, from $12 to
$16. We fear it will be long before the beautiful designs of the French are
equalled by Americans. Their taste must be more highly cultivated before
such is the case. Mr. C., of New York, employs a designer (Frenchman),
paying him $1,000 a year, who receives in another manufactory a salary of
$3,000 a year. N. C. & Co. get some of their patterns from the school of
design in Paris, because the French have more taste in designing, or, rather,
that taste has been more cultivated. Brande gives the merits of designing as
follows: "Every work of design is to be considered either in relation to the
art that produced it, to the nature of its adaptation to the end sought, or to
the nature of the end it is destined to serve; thus its beauty is dependent on
the wisdom or excellence displayed in the design, in the fitness or propriety
of the adaptation, and upon the utility of the end."

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49. Draughtswomen.

There are several kinds of draughting, or drawing on stone: architectural,
mechanical, letter, figure, and landscape. Very few women have undertaken
draughting in any of its branches. But we do not see why it should be
confined to men. We suppose the minds of some women are as well adapted
to the business as those of some men. Our ideas of the fitness of women for
architectural drawing are given under the article Architects.

50. Employés in the United States Mint.

A very interesting description of the employment of ladies in the United
States Mint at Philadelphia will be found in Godey's Lady's Book, of
August, 1852. Col. Snowden, Director of the Mint, writes to me as follows:
"Women are employed to adjust the weight of the blanks or planchets,
preparatory to the coinage—each piece for the gold coinage being
separately weighed and adjusted. So also are the larger coins of silver;
namely, the dollar and the half dollar. They are also employed in feeding the
coining presses. There are about fifty women at present employed. This
force is amply sufficient for our present operations, and for any additional
amount of work that the mint may be called on to perform. The
employments in which they are engaged are healthy and pleasant. Some
years ago the women received seventy-five cents a day in the adjusting
room, and eighty-five cents for those employed in the coining room. Since
that time I have increased their per diem compensation to $1.10 in both
departments. They are paid monthly. Men employed in labor of a similar
character secure about $2.20 per day. A day's work is about ten hours;
ordinarily the women do not work more than seven or eight hours;
sometimes more, sometimes less, but never beyond ten hours. There are no
other occupations in the mint, than where they are now employed, suitable
for women. I am greatly in favor of employing women, and I have extended
the employment of them as far as it is practicable. For adjusting the weight
of coins, and attending or feeding the coining presses, I consider women as
not inferior to men, except that they cannot endure work for as great a
number of hours." The adjusting room is kept very close, as even the breath

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of a person may affect the gold dust. The windows are kept closed on that
account all the year. Visitors are not permitted to enter this room. I have
been told that the adjusters wear chamois dresses, which they change before
leaving the mint. They are required to wash their hands and clean their nails
before leaving the premises, lest gold dust should be in them. A great many
applications are made for situations in the mint. None but a thoroughly
honest person should occupy so responsible a place."

51. Engravers and Chasers of Gold and Silver.

I was told by a lady in Philadelphia, that had been engaged with her
husband for some years in chasing the backs of gold watches, and had laid
by quite a snug little fortune, that from $5 to $6 is paid for engraving a
watch case. It requires many years to render one a competent gold or silver
chaser—I think about five years. A general engraver told me he thought
women could very well engrave jewelry, silver, and card plates. The
superior taste of women could be exercised to advantage. He thinks a
woman of good abilities could obtain sufficient practice to earn good wages
at the expiration of six months. It is a very confining business, but one that
pays well. It requires more skill in drawing than beauty of penmanship,
though the last is a desirable item. A good engraver calculates to earn $1 an
hour. The kinds most suitable for a lady are so clean that she need not have
her clothes soiled by her work. Mr. C. knew a lady once in New York who
was a beautiful engraver. She learned the business with her father. A
watchmaker can soon learn to engrave, because he uses similar tools, and
knows how to handle them. A person that can engrave watches could easily
engrave coarser work. Engravers, when employed by the week, earn from
$12 to $25; and $15 a week is a fair average of an engraver's wages. An
engraver cannot well work more than nine hours a day. Ornamental
engraving is done in some jewelry manufactories by women. Engraving is
done with gravers, but chasing is executed with punches and a small
hammer. Engraving is more on the surface than chasing. An article chased
is indented on the inner side, one engraved is not. It requires some time to
excel in chasing and engraving. There are two kinds of watch engraving—
that of landscape and that of borders. I was told by an Englishman that

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some silver-plate chasing is done in England by women. A jeweler writes:
"We occasionally employ women in engraving—on brass, and we do not
find any difficulty. In this branch of business, we believe, they are more
suitable than men." Mr. S., who engraves on gold, silver, and other bright
metals, told me that a long time back all the engraving in his branch was
done in England by women. It is light work. The designing is like a lawyer's
work—hard on the brain. Most engravers in this country do their own
designing. His father was the first engraver in New York. He takes
apprentices for five years, not paying anything the first year, the second, $2
a week and clothing, and increases according to the attainments of the
learner. There are two kinds of engraving in his branch: the line engraving
can be done with one tool, the other kind requires several. He can obtain
foreigners who can do both kinds (usually called mongrel engraving), and
who would be glad to get work. Chasing and polishing are about as good
mechanical pursuits as a woman can follow. Some silver chasing is done by
filling the article with sand, and striking with proper tools; some is pressed
with heavy machinery. Soft chasing is done on metals, but the chasing of
plated ware requires some strength in the wrists, and is done before being
plated. The patterns are placed before the workers. It requires a long time
and application to acquire proficiency. More women could find
employment as chasers, if they would apply themselves long and closely
enough. A chaser, who employs eight girls in Providence in making and
chasing jewelry, writes: "They earn from $4 to $5 per week, but men from
$15 to $18. Women cannot do their work as well as men. Men spend from
two to three years learning, women from one to two months. Spring and fall
are the best seasons. The prospect of employment for women in this branch
is good. There are other parts of the jewelry business in which women could
be employed, and I think they will be. I prefer to employ women, because
they are cheaper." A jewelry engraver writes: "In some branches of our style
of engraving, women are employed in France and Germany. The occupation
is sedentary. The average rate of workmen is $12. I think women could
command the same prices as men. It requires about one year to learn. There
are but few first-class engravers. A bold and steady hand, a ready and quick
ingenuity, which would qualify a person to be a good draughtsman and
designer, are the qualifications most needed for an engraver. About fifteen
years ago there was no demand for engraving, but it is now on the increase,

Page 110

and considered a necessary finish to jewelry. About the Christmas holidays
are the best seasons for work. Ten hours a day are required. In the Western
and Southern States are openings—in large cities a surplus. I think, women
are peculiarly adapted to engraving, but they would be likely to marry, and
then we would have our trouble to repeat in teaching new learners."

52. Equestrians and Gymnasts.

In equestrian entertainments, much depends on the accessories. Without
music, artificial light, and paintings, they would be rather tame. The
principal requisites for a circus rider I take to be agility, grace, and
fearlessness. Size and form have not so much to do in making a successful
rider and gymnast as one would suppose. The athletic exercises require
vigor and firmness of muscle. One should be trained from the earliest
childhood. Children usually begin as early as three years old. In former
times, these children were, many of them, picked up in the streets, and there
is no doubt that these human waifs had a hard time of it; but now many of
the professionals bring up their own children to the business. All the
performers, in addition to their several "star" or "single" acts in the ring, are
required to appear in any capacity assigned them in the scenic pieces and
spectacles, and to attend the rehearsals of the same; also, to appear and
remain on the stage in proper dresses, for the purpose of filling the scene,
and giving a gay and animated appearance to the stage. Mr. Nixon's
establishment, New York, being the most complete in the country, and being
thoroughly systematized in every department, will serve as the best source
from which to derive information concerning the routine duties required,
and the weekly moneys paid there to circus performers. "The principal
performers in Mr. Nixon's company are paid as follows: Ella Zoyara,
equestrian, in addition to first-class passage from England and back for self
and two servants, medical attendance for self and servants, carriage and
horses whenever required, and a benefit every two weeks, receives per
week $500; Mr. William Cooke, equestrian, manager, passages for self and
wife from England and return, and per week, $500; James Robinson,
equestrian, for self and three horses, $305; the Hanlon brothers, six persons,
gymnasts, per week $300; Mr. Charlton, stilt walker, passage, &c., $125;

Page 111

Mr. Duverey, contortionist, passage, &c., $125; Mlle. Heloise, equestrienne,
$100; Mlle. Clementine, equestrienne, $100; M. and Mad. Du Boch,
equestrians, $100; Master Barclay, equestrian, ten years old, $75; Mr.
Whitby, ringmaster and equestrian, $100; Mr. S. Stikney, equestrian and
general performer, $100; Mr. J. Pentland, clown, $100; Mr. Ellingham,
ringmaster and general performer, $40; Mr. Armstrong, equestrian and
general performer, $40; W. Kincaid, do., $40; W. Pastor, do., $30; W.
Bertine, do., $30; Brennan, do., $25; Niel, do., $25; F. Sylvester, do., $20;
A. Sylvester, do., $20; W. Ward, slack rope and clown, $30; Prof. Yates,
ballet master, $25; Mr. Stark, general performer, $25; S. Ruggles, $20;
Davenport, $20; Foster, $20; Peterson, $20; four lady equestrians, per week,
each $20; and twenty ballet girls and twenty supernumeraries." We extract
from an English paper the following statement: "In Paris, no less than
15,000 persons were admitted yesterday, although the prices were doubled
for the occasion, to witness the performance on the tight rope of a woman—
Madame Blanche Saqui—who is entering her eighty-fifth year."

53. Etchers and Stamp Cutters.

In England, in the seventeenth century, Anna and Susannah Lister were
regarded as having much skill in the noble art of etching. They illustrated a
work on natural history written by their father. A century later, the Countess
Lavinia Spencer and a Miss Hartley became noted for their skill in etching.
Rosa Elizabeth Schwindel, of Leipsic, worked at the business of a stamp
cutter in the beginning of the eighteenth century; and two Frenchwomen
during the same century—M. A. de St. Urbin and E. Lesueur.

54. Herbarium Makers.

Herbariums are collections of dried plants. They are formed by gluing to
sheets of paper the flowers and leaves of plants, after they have been
pressed and dried. To botanists, they are useful; and a choice collection is a
frail, but pretty ornament, for a centre table. The largest public herbaria are
at Berlin, Paris, and London. It is supposed that some of them may contain
as many as 60,000 species. There is not much of beauty or interest in such a

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collection, but for scientific purposes they may be valuable. It is not
unusual to see them made of the plants and weeds of the sea; and a very
pretty collection do they make, if got up with taste. A book has been lately
printed containing plates, with explanations for making them into pictures
and other fanciful arrangements. The making of herbariums of both earth
and marine plants, would furnish a pleasant pastime to ladies of leisure, and
a source of revenue, perhaps, to those who might wish to make it a matter
of profit.

55. Lapidaries.

A skilful manipulation is necessary to the business of a lapidary. If woman
has sufficient firmness of nerve to perform the duties of surgeon, we see not
why she would not have for the cutting of precious stones. It is a business
conducted on a limited scale and by few persons in this country. Mr. R., of
New York, told me that a lady in Birmingham, England, had a large
establishment, and employed women and girls to work for her. He knew of
no lady that worked at the business in the United States, except one that
used to be in an establishment on Broadway. The employment, he thinks, is
not unhealthy. After a lady has learned, she would probably earn from $4 to
$5 a week, working for others. He received $12 a week when working as a
journeyman. He spent seven years as an apprentice in England, but he
learned the manufacture of jewelry in connection. The prospect of
employment depends much on the condition of the money market, but there
is reason to think the business will increase as the country grows older. All
seasons of the year are alike. Money matters only make a change. He says
there are many books written on the precious stones and the art of cutting
and polishing them. He mentioned a book by a lady of London on the
subject. Mr. H., an importer and manufacturer of cornelian and other fancy
goods, told me that grinding precious stones is very hard work. Men lie
across wooden benches to apply the agate, cornelian, or whatever it may be,
to the grindstone. There are eight grindstones, weighing twenty tons each,
on one axle. The polishing is done by boys, who sit at small wooden
wheels, some of which are covered with leather. Sometimes women do this
work. As this method of grinding stones is done by water power, it is done

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more cheaply than by steam. In Germany, a man who works at precious
stones or makes up jewelry at home, has his wife and daughters to assist
him, and hires a peasant girl to do his housework. The women and girls
make the fastenings for earrings, and file and polish the rings. He pays
seventy cents a gross in Germany for them. He says, in the country and
villages of northern Germany daughters are considered treasures, for they
remain at home, and by their handiwork maintain themselves; but in the
south of Germany, where there are no manufactures, girls are a burden on
their parents. B., of Philadelphia, used to employ girls to set up jet, garnet,
and turquoise for grinding; but those stones are now out of fashion, and so
girls are not employed. He says an old lady, whose daughter is connected
with the Home Mission, wished them to give instruction to her daughter in
cutting stones, that she might, as a pastime, cut those brought by members
of the family from the seashore and watering places. He thought it likely
she would also teach the art in the Mission School. Cutting facets he
thought pretty work for women. They can either sit or stand at the tables.
There is nothing unhealthy in the grinding, as the stones are kept wet all the
time. But the dust used in nipping glass and stones is injurious to the lungs.
When a man has been nipping all day, his nostrils are nearly closed. The
amount of work depends on fashion. There are seven establishments in
Providence, and the work is done by steam. Some stones cannot be cut by
steam machinery, as the wheel must every few seconds be graduated in
motion. In hard times, the jewelry business and employments connected
therewith are dull, as people dispense with superfluities. Southerners buy
most jewelry, but now they do not indulge in such purchases.

56. Landscape Gardeners.

Mrs. R. often goes and looks at gardens, directs how to lay them out, and
what to buy for them. She then orders the plants of others, and sells on
commission, having them arranged according to her own taste, influenced
by that of the purchaser. Her purchases are made of a German, living some
distance from town, who can raise them cheaper than she could in the city.
Her compensation, of course, varies greatly. A landscape gardener writes:
"What a lady could do as landscape gardener at the West, I do not know. I

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am rather inclined to doubt her success at the East. It would require too
much time and space to enter here into the details of what are required to
constitute a landscape gardener: First, one must have a decided love for it,
and a willingness to sacrifice much to the pleasure of the occupation. Nor
can I say a great deal in favor of the profits. I have never been able to make
a living by the profession, although I have often thought if I had gone to
New York, or farther West, the case might have been different. In pages 381
and 382 of 'Country Life,' and in many other parts of the book, you will see
what I consider essential to the making up and preparation of a landscape
gardener, and better expressed than I can condense into a letter." Mr. C., of
Massachusetts, writes: "I have never known a lady to undertake the
profession of landscape gardening; and much of the labor which I find it
necessary to perform, would be impossible for a lady. Still, there is much in
which female taste would find abundant field for exertion, if the labor could
be so divided as to make it profitable. My first work on any estate is to
make an accurate topographical survey of the ground, and draw a plan of it
in its natural state, and then proceed to make my designs for its
arrangement; and when that is done, if required, I undertake the
superintendence of the work at the ground. A lady would have to employ a
surveyor, in the first place, and would labor under many disadvantages in
directing the operations upon grounds; and, to judge from my own
experience, the business could not be made profitable under such
circumstances. Loudon's 'Encyclopædia of Gardening' will give the best
directions I know of for the necessary operations of designing and
executing plans, and Downing's work, with Sargent's appendix, comprises
enough suggestions, on matters of taste, for the use of any person who is
possessed of innate natural taste, without which I would advise no one to
attempt to be a landscape gardener."

57. Lithographers.

The impression for chalk drawings is made by delicate manipulations with
crayon pencils; for ink drawings, with steel pens and camel-hair brushes. It
requires one skilled in the use of her pencil, for every stroke of the pencil or
pen on the stone remains, and cannot be erased. Consequently, any defect

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on the stone is conveyed to every copy of the paper. In answer to a letter of
inquiry, respecting the time necessary for preparation, the writer says: "A
person who draws well upon paper would, I should think, with six months'
practice on stone, become proficient. The process differs little from crayon
drawing on paper; and the progress of pupils depends entirely on their
previous attainments in drawing. The different kinds of lithography are
black, chromo, and gold illuminated; also, lithography combined, or
uncombined, with embossing. In a report of a British school of design, it is
stated that the chromo-lithographic class for females "exhibit the
commencement of a series of useful labors." An immense number of cheap
lithographs are colored by women; such as are hung in taverns, country
houses, sailors' homes, servants' rooms, &c. At Mr. C.'s establishment, I
was told that in France the females are quite as successful as the male artists
in lithography. He says lithographs require to be more highly colored than
the colors we see in nature. Mr. C. thinks of sending to France for
lithographers, as he cannot get enough in New York well qualified. A
correct eye, skilful manipulation, and an appreciation of art are required to
make one skilful in lithography. Germans excel, because they have so much
patience. An American would become nervous at the slow work that they
prosecute with the greatest pleasure. At Mr. C.'s they have a forewoman,
who superintends the girls, who are paid by the quantity and kind of work
they do. He finds that small girls are usually the best workers. Their fingers
are more nimble, and they enter into it with more zeal. He thinks it best for
them to commence at ten or twelve years of age. Prospect good for
employment in that branch. The coloring of all the finest pictures is done by
men. It requires some time to become sufficiently expert to earn much.
Their girls earn from $3 to $7 a week. The work requires care, and is
wearisome, because of sitting long and steadily. Mrs. P., Brooklyn, an
English lady, learned to draw when eight years old, and studied lithography
with a distinguished artist of London, who executed entirely with his left
hand, having lost three fingers on his right when he was a child. She has
spent twenty-two years in lithographing—seventeen of them in this country.
She is probably the only lady professionally engaged in this business in the
United States. She has earned almost constantly, I was told, from $12 to $30
a week. Lithographing is very lucrative to a skilful artist. The remuneration
is better than women often receive for their handiwork. We believe some

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women could find employment in it, if they were prepared. Mrs. P. excels in
architectural drawing. She thinks one must have the talent of an artist, and
great practice with the pencil, to succeed. She has given instruction to
several youths, but never to one of her own sex. One must be articled, and
pass through a regular course of advancement, to follow it advantageously.
To an apprentice, after two or three years' practice, a small premium is paid.
She had one youth to learn of her, who, after four years' time, received $7 a
week from her for his work. She thinks there will be employment to a few
well qualified. She has always been kept busy. The employment is not more
unhealthy than any other of a sedentary kind. Mr. M. says they have no
difficulty in finding enough of crayon lithographers, but that there is more
lithographic engraving done than crayon lithographing. It is done on stone
with instruments, very much as engraving is done on copper. We have read
"that an improved method of transferring copies of delicate copper and steel
plate engravings to the surface of lithographic stone has been invented. One
copy taken from the steel or copper plate, after being transferred to the
stone, is capable of producing 3,000 prints." "Lithography, engraving, and
especially engraving on wood, would gain in quality by passing from men's
hands to the hands of women." "Lithographic works are produced which
rival the finest engravings, and even surpass them, in the expression of
certain subjects." The first lithography executed in the United States was in
Boston, 1826. W. & S. used to employ girls to color lithographs, but found
it did not pay. They paid from $4 to $5 a week to women, who did the
common part of the work. Men did the finer parts, and earned from $12 to
$25 a week; but only those who are expert, have artistic taste, and
understand the business, can earn so much. French lithographs are prepared
and the coloring done so much cheaper in Europe, they have ceased to have
it done in New York. B., lithographer, Philadelphia, employs many ladies—
about twenty—in the house. Some associate in companies, and take their
work to the house of one of their number; but the greater part are educated
women, who do not wish it known that they earn money by their labor:
these carry the plates to their own homes (and even have them sent to the
fashionable places of resort in summer), so that many a fair damsel trips
along Chestnut street with a roll of something, which seems to be music,
but is, in fact, work. The coarse handed take no part in this employment.
Very few have ever attained the highest degree of proficiency in it. The

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most delicate work is done by men. Americans have most aptness for
coloring, although the Germans excel in drawing on stone. Women seldom
attempt the latter art. It requires long practice for girls to excel in coloring.
Many grades of skill are required to color lithographs, and there is much
difficulty in making all the copies exactly like the first. Some need a
treatment so nearly approaching the artistic, that scarcely any one who has
the skill can be found to give his labor for the price, which is necessarily
limited. We gained no information as to the amount of wages paid to the
colorists, but, judging from the price of a very beautiful specimen (29
cents), it must be sadly inadequate. The scientific societies are the main
support of this business. The Government, indeed, gives very extensive
orders, but there is always so much competition to obtain them, that the
profit is small. Audubon was the greatest encourager of this branch of
industry. This employment is very desirable in every respect for educated
women; and although machinery for printing in colors is fast encroaching
on it, yet it will long offer a field for female enterprise. Our informant
employs from 100 to 300 hands, according to the prosperity of the times. A
commercial crisis affects this as well as all other trades. One of the firm of
the best lithographic establishment in New York, told me they pay their men
for drawing on stone from $25 to $30 a week. The time required to learn
lithography, he thought, would depend much on natural talent. A good
knowledge of drawing is necessary. He thought men would soon get over
the opposition of women entering the business; but they did not like the
restraint of working where women are. They would soon become
accustomed to it; and if they were women of the right kind, it might be a
very beneficial restraint. But, as to that, women could do the work at home.
Many Germans, well acquainted with the art, are engaged in crayoning.
When they first come to this country, they work for lower wages than
Americans, but after a while learn their value, and ask as much as any one
else. On account of the low wages for which foreigners can usually be had,
but few Americans have prepared themselves for this occupation. But when
work is plenty, and the individual industrious and skilful, he can earn good
wages. Seven eighths of the work done for this country is executed in New
York. The agent of a lithographic company writes: "Drawing on stone could
be done by women as well as men; and would open to them a very genteel
and remunerative branch of business. The drawing is now done mostly by

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Germans and Frenchmen; but ladies who have a taste for drawing could
soon learn this art. The usual price for such artists now is from $12 to $35
per week." Prof. P., of New York, gives instruction in lithography, charging
$12 per quarter of eleven weeks—two lessons per week. Special
arrangements are made with pupils who intend to devote themselves to the
profession as artists or teachers. A gentleman remarked to me that Mr. S., a
certain distinguished lithographer of this city (New York), would make an
excellent teacher in that art. His forte is heads. A few strokes from his
pencil always give a beautiful finish to a piece of work.

58. Map Makers.

Women could not well travel about to obtain information of localities for
the making of maps, but nearly all the manual labor connected with the
business would be very suitable for them. Lithographing maps is said to be
a profitable branch of the art, and opens a field to competent women.
Attending the machines for making impressions from the stones might very
well be performed by women. "In Philadelphia, map coloring gives
employment to about 175 females, some of whom display exquisite taste in
this delicate art." There used to be 150 girls in New York painting maps, but
there are very few now. Freedley tells of a map-manufacturing
establishment in Philadelphia that "turns out 1,200 maps weekly. Connected
with it are two lithographic printing offices, having twenty presses, and
coloring rooms, in which 35 females are employed." I was told by a lady
who had colored maps, that it is trying on the eyes and poorly compensated.
A map maker said he was always most busy in the fall, and then employed
from 12 to 16 women. In winter he employed about half that number, and
they principally married women, who have worked for them several years.
Mr. W. pays two of his best and most experienced lady workers a certain
sum by the week, and they hire girls and women to work for them. The
profits of these forewomen, aside from their own work, amount to $1.50 to
$2 a week the year round. Girls receive $1.50 a week while learning. It
requires from six months to one year to become proficient. Neatness, a
steady hand, knowledge of colors, and fineness of touch, are the principal
requisites for a good map colorist. It requires no artistic knowledge. An

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expeditious and experienced hand can earn $1 a day. There is at present a
need of hands in New York, and a surplus in Philadelphia. All seasons are
alike in this business, except as monetary affairs are concerned. All Mr. W.'s
hands work in the house. They work about nine hours a day all the year, and
never take maps home with them, as they are mostly large and heavy maps.
Map making is mostly confined to Philadelphia and New York. None are
made in the South and West. There is one map publisher reported in
Richmond, but he has his maps made in New York. Mr. C. gives his maps to
a map mounter, who employs a girl to sew the bindings on with a sewing
machine. She is paid at the same rate as any other operator. The paper
bindings are of course pasted on. Mr. C. employs one girl to paint the
outlines, but all the other painting is done by stencil plates. Map coloring
formerly gave employment to many females, but now it is very rare that a
map is colored by hand. The stencilling process introduced by the Germans
has superseded it, as they are thereby rendered cheaper. Girls used to earn
75 cents to $1 a day for painting maps. If girls would learn stencilling and
work on their own responsibility, they might compete with the Germans.
The process is very simple and soon learned. At Mr. H.'s, I saw a large room
full of Germans stencilling. Men earn $8 or $9 a week, and do it faster and
better than girls, as they have more strength. I saw one girl shading, who
earned $1 a day. A map manufacturer writes me: "In map coloring I am
compelled to employ men to a large extent. A curious fact is, that
respectable middle-aged women, who have been coloring for years on
piecework, make from $4 to $5 per week; while young men, comparatively
unpractised, earn at the same prices, say from $9 to $10." A manufacturer
who employs about 80 females, writes: "I employ women in pasting and
putting down maps, who receive from $3 to $4 a week, being paid by the
week, and working ten hours a day. The difference in prices of male and
female labor is about one half. One can learn the business in a few weeks;
the only qualifications requisite are sobriety and strength. The prospect for
work in this branch is good. There is no difference in the seasons. Some
parts of the work can be done more cheaply by women. A supply of hands
can always be had. The women do their work less carefully than men." A
map publisher in New Hampshire writes: "I employ 28 women and girls in
binding, mounting, stitching, and coloring maps, and pay from $3 to $6 per
week, working eight hours a day. The engraving is done by men, who

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receive from $6 to $20 per week. Women's labor can be learned in a few
weeks, and is not so hard or difficult as men's. Engravers spend three years
learning. I employ women to color, because they have better taste than men.
Draughting surveys, engraving, and lithographing have never been
attempted by women. New York is preferable as a locality." A gentleman in
Boston writes: "We employ from four to eight women in our map-mounting
department. They could not be employed in any other branch, which is
varnishing and polishing all kinds of hard wood. There are a large number
employed in New York, Philadelphia, and Buffalo. Pay varies from $3 to $5
per week—ten hours a day. We employ no men in this branch. There is
something new to learn every day. Business is the same all the year. We pay
our girls nothing while learning." A lithographer in Boston writes: "I
employ women to color maps and pictures, paying by the piece, the workers
earning from $3 to $6 per week. The employment is not unhealthy."

59. Medallists.

"Beatrice Hamerani worked at medallions, and in 1700 elaborated a large
medallion of Pope Innocent XII., highly praised by Goethe." "Toward the
end of the seventeenth century we hear of Madame Ravemann, who
executed a beautiful medal, an exquisite specimen of cutting." In the school
of design in New York, we saw two very creditable medallions, executed by
one of the members of the school.

60. Modellers.

An ornamental designer and modeller writes me: "In England I attended my
lady pupils at their own residences, except one to whom I gave instruction
at my residence. One was the daughter of the Lord Mayor of the city,
another the daughter-in-law of the Earl of H. Very few ladies learn any of
the higher branches of art, except those that do so for recreation. A person
that has some skill in drawing would, without the slightest doubt, soon
acquire a knowledge of this beautiful art. Some persons have a natural gift
for modelling, while others would not learn it with all the cultivation arising
from education and good society. Probably the best source of employment

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in New York would be to design and model for the silversmiths—such as
Ball & Black, Tiffany, &c. One of the most fertile departments in Europe to
lady modellers is not carried on to any extent in this country—the making
of fine pottery. The fingers, of course, must be soiled in modelling; but such
an inconvenience is trifling compared with the pleasure of forming fruit,
flowers, and foliage, or modelling the medallions of friends." The
modelling of gas fixtures might afford employment to a small number of
qualified women. We know of one establishment in Philadelphia where part
of the designing for fixtures, lamps, and chandeliers, is done by a lady, and
all the copying done for illustrated catalogues of those which are finished.
She receives $6 a week, and goes about 9 o'clock A. M. and remains until 4
P. M. Mr P., at his school of art in New York, has a very large collection of
casts. He gives instruction to boys and young men in modelling and
drawing, charging 25 cents a lesson of 3 hours in the day or 2 in the
evening. They are instructed in classes. Some of his casts are gigantic. In
one of his rooms is a beautiful, but small model, in wax, for $300,
representing a hunting scene. We have been told that some ladies in
Germany model wax patterns for the ornamental work on china. Few tools
are used by a modeller—the only ones are for the sharp and delicate parts
that cannot be formed by the fingers. As clay does not shrink uniformly in
drying it is moulded before drying in plaster of Paris, and a cast of the same
material taken from that, which serves as a model for the workman. Some
artists model in wax. Women might be employed in modelling ornamental
and scroll work for brass founderies, &c., and get good wages.

61. Modellers of Wax Figures.

Catharine Questier, who lived in Amsterdam about 200 years ago, besides
possessing many other accomplishments, was a modeller in wax. Joanna
Sabina Preu, who lived in Germany not long after, was noted in the same
way. A daughter of a Danish king also modelled in wax. "Professor Anna
Manzalius, an Italian lady, modelled excellent portraits in the beginning of
the eighteenth century." In England, in the early part of the eighteenth
century, Mrs. Samore modelled figures and historical groups in wax. Mrs.
Patience Wright, born in Bordentown, New Jersey, 1725, made a great

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many likenesses in wax. Some were full length and some were busts. They
were mostly of the statesmen that were conspicuous in the American
colonies at that time—yet some were of Englishmen, as she resided in
London, after she became a widow, and supported her family by her
handiwork. Her daughter, Mrs. Platt, modelled in wax in New York in 1787.
I saw a maker of wax figures who said he had supported his family by his
work, and thought a few others might make a living at it. One must be able
to draw a model before undertaking wax figures. It requires good perceptive
powers, ability to distinguish colors, and a peculiar taste. One must be able
to work from life, and it is well to know how to do so from pictures. Mr. G.,
interested in Barnum's museum, told me that it was impossible to get such
wax figures made in this country as they want. He spoke of the miserable
imitations that are made, and thought a person well qualified would be
patronized. Most of the groups in Barnum's museum were made by Mrs.
Pelby, of Boston. Mr. Barnum wrote to Mr. Tussaud, whose mother made
those so famous in London (and who is living now), to know if he would
instruct some one to send to America; but he is not willing to give any one
instruction. He employs persons to make the different parts; one set of
workers make the bodies, another the heads, another the feet, &c. The
world-famed group of his mother, Madame Tussaud, was first opened in
Paris about 1770. After being exhibited in the large towns of Great Britain,
it was taken to London, where it still remains. The figures are so life-like
that now and then one is mistaken for a living person, while a person is as
often mistaken in the group for one of the figures. More than forty persons
are kept in charge of the exhibition.

62. Mineral Labellers and Arrangers.

A lady could not easily make collections of minerals, but she might find it
an absorbing occupation to arrange and label them. Few ladies in our
country have given any study to mineralogy, and very few would be
competent to form cabinets. Yet, for those that are, we doubt not
employment of that kind could be found. The individual wealth of our
country has not been sufficient to enable many to make extensive
collections. The most that exist are connected with universities and other

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institutions of learning. They have been collected at different times—in
fact, mostly formed by single specimens, added now and then. Individual
collections have been formed in the same way. Individuals add to the
cabinets of their friends, as they have it in their power. The most extensive
collections in the United States are at the Patent Office, Washington, and in
the National Academy of Science, Philadelphia. Mr. H., a mineralogist from
Berlin, says: "In Berne, Switzerland, a man and his wife are mineralogists.
On the husband's death the wife will continue the business." It must require
many years' study and an extensive knowledge of chemistry to become a
superior mineralogist. I would think considerable time and capital were
requisite for a mineralogist to establish himself. Mr. H. makes exchanges of
minerals for others, receiving, I suppose, a commission for doing so. A
geologist writes me: "No women are employed in my business. It requires
one half of a lifetime to become fitted for the duties of a geologist. A
knowledge of engineering, and most of the natural sciences, is needed.
Draughting in the office is the only part suitable for women."

63. Musicians.

Madame Romeau says: "Few women have been engaged in musical
compositions, and they have rarely undertaken important works. In painting
and literature one is pre-occupied only with the work of the author. In
music, it requires the coöperation of two persons—the composer, and the
performer. Books and paintings act upon us without any intermediate
objects, while the piece of the composer, to be understood, needs the flow
of harmony noted on the paper in hieroglyphic signs, and must escape under
the fingers from the instrument. It is necessary to animate the inert matter—
to make it yield to the wish of the performer and reproduce the inspirations
of the composer. Few women compose songs. A musician leads a different
life from an artist, who lives in her studio and has few expenses. A musician
must face the crowd, and hear its dissatisfaction, and smile at its applause.
A cantatrice, or songstress, often travels from town to town like an actress."
Some persons think none of the arts can be purely religious except music.
"Mozart in music, and Raphael in colors, have taught us the spiritual
ministry of the senses." A comparatively small quantity of music has been

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composed in the United States. The study of a lifetime is bestowed by very
few on music. Some American ladies have gone to Europe to perfect their
musical taste, and a few have acquired distinction. With musicians, as with
vocalists—those who, in this country, have reaped the greatest profits in the
shortest time were foreigners. Some were pianists, some flutists, some
violinists—some one thing, and some another. The composition of music
for soirées, fancy balls, masquerades, tableaux vivants, private theatricals,
operas, dramas, musical farces, ballets, &c., might occupy all the spare time
of musicians capable of composing. There is a circulating library in London
of 42,000 volumes. There is, also, one in New York and one in Brooklyn.
Subscribers to the one in Brooklyn pay in advance for one year $12, with
the privilege of selecting from the catalogue $6 worth of music at the
termination of the subscription; for six months, $6; for three months, $3; for
a single piece worth less than $1, 6 cents per week; less than $2, 9 cents per
week. Mr. G. thinks a lady can never become a good violinist, because it
requires great strength in the right arm. The muscles of violinists are as
rigid as a blacksmith's. I have heard that occasionally a pianist acquires
such strength in his hands that he could almost prostrate you with one of his
fingers. A gentleman told me, ladies could not become superior organists;
that they cannot have sufficient power developed. It requires much strength
of hands and feet. He remarked, the organist, at the church he attended, was
a lady, but made no comments on her qualifications. I have known two lady
organists, who were considered superior performers, and received as good
salaries as gentlemen would have done. One received $500 for playing
twice on Sabbath. On week days she gave instruction. I was told that she
supported her whole family for years by her musical talents, and laid by
money with which she purchased a comfortable dwelling in a city in New
York State. The salaries of organists are small considering the amount of
talent and practice required; but most organists teach music, or stand in
music stores, or act as agents for manufacturers of musical instruments. "In
the summer of 1860, among the Marblehead band of female shoe strikers in
the procession at Lynn, Mass., was Miss Margaret Hammond, fifteen years
old, who beat the drum in martial style the whole line of march." "In Ohio
they have a lady drummer, who has received a diploma for her skill. Her
name is Minerva Patterson, a daughter of Major Elisha Patterson, a wealthy
farmer of Jersey, Licking Co." The French papers have given some insight

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to the prices paid great musicians, Malibran received in London, for every
performance at Drury Lane, $750; Lablache, for singing twice, $750, and
for a single lesson to Queen Victoria, $200. At a soirée in London Grisi
received $1,200. Paganini charged $400 a lesson. "Herz and Thalberg each
made about $60,000 in this country." There is a female musical society in
London which gives concerts for benevolent objects.

64. Music Engravers and Folders.

Mr. L. engraves and prints music, and employs two ladies to fold it. There
are but few music engravers. The smaller the number of persons in any one
kind of business the higher the prices they can command. A lady in New
Orleans engraves, whose husband is a music printer. It would require but
two or three years to learn it. Some ingenuity, a knowledge of the value of
notes in music, and judgment in the arrangement of them are necessary to
make an engraver. In New Orleans, eight months are usually considered a
year, I believe, in business arrangements. At a music engraver's the young
man told me that he never heard of a woman engraving music in this
country, but he knows that some do in Paris. The work they turn out, he
added, is not good; it will not wear, because women have not sufficient
strength in the wrist to engrave as deeply as a man. A person who engraves
plates for music can earn from $3 to $5 a day. German work is considered
the best, because the quality of the ink used is better. Music engraving is
divided into two distinct branches—one is lettering and engraving the title
page—the other is engraving the notes. No steam machinery has ever been
invented for printing music, because the ink must all be put on the way the
work is done. Music is one of the first things dispensed with in hard times.

65. Opera Performers.

The first opera of modern times was performed about the close of the
fifteenth century. At the first introduction of the opera into France and
England, it was much ridiculed by wits and critics. Voltaire, however, and
others, came to its rescue, and with what success may be known, when it is
acknowledged to be one of the favorite amusements of the fashionable

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world. The want of adaptedness of the opera to the English language has to
a great extent excluded successful efforts at translation. Yet some operas
have of late years been performed in English. "In Paris, the Italian opera is
patronized by the Government, as a school of vocal music; and the
managers are careful to maintain a complete and skilful company." In an
opera, the music is the most important part, while at the theatre the music is
subordinate to the play. The orchestra in some parts of the opera
accompanies, and, in others, seems to respond to the sentiments of the
piece. The operatic performance is not so warm, so impassioned, so
abandoned, as that of the theatre. The trilling and sudden starting, so
common in operas, is rather too artificial to please the unsophisticated. A
conversational style is seldom used, but the words are expressed in a
recitative style that is graceful and effective. In Germany, however,
dialogue has been introduced. Good imitative powers are essential to
success. The noble talent of music has been desecrated, in some operas, by
the impure thoughts and language expressed. In the United States probably
not more than thirty, out of the entire audience of several hundred,
sufficiently understand the Italian, to follow the play without considerable
effort; but it is so much of a pantomimic character that much is gained by
the sense of sight. Much of the zest and interest are lost to those who are
indifferent to the accessories. On this account, we suppose it can never
become a favorite amusement with the generality of people. The French
papers give some curious statements in regard to the salaries paid to great
musical artists. We learn that Hummel left a fortune of $75,000, and twenty-
six diamond rings, thirty-four snuff boxes, and one hundred and fourteen
watches, which had been presented to him at various times. In modern days
musicians are quite as extravagantly paid. Alboni and Mario get $400 every
night they sing; Tamberlik, every time he sings a certain high note, demands
$500; Madame Gazzaniga was paid $500 a night recently in Philadelphia;
Lagrange, at Rio Janeiro, is now receiving a princely salary; and
Piccolomini cost her manager over $5,000 a month; and these prices are
said to be moderate, compared with those often paid in Europe to
distinguished musical artists. At the opera house in Paris, for the present
season, Mr. Colzado, the manager, pays as follows: to Tamberlik, for
seventeen representations, $8,000; Alboni, $2,200 for seven representations;
Mario, $15,000 for a season of five months; Grisi, $5,000 for two months;

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Madame Perer, $14,000 for the season; the Grazioni brothers, $15,400;
Corsi, a baritone, $4,000; Galvani, $3,600; Nantin Didere, $4,000; Tecehini,
$3,600; Mlle. de Ruda, $3,400. The chorus and orchestra cost for the season
$17,600. "Parodi, the American prima donna, receives no less than $30,000
per annum, a larger salary than that paid to the President of the United
States." "Miss Hensler, the American prima donna, has been engaged by the
manager of La Scala for fifteen months, at the rate of $170 a month."
"Sophie Curveth receives $2,500 a month, for eight representations; for
every representation beyond eight in the month, $300 more."

66. Painters.

"Less prejudice exists against artists than teachers in France. They have
privileges that teachers have not. Painting is considered the most desirable
profession by parents for their daughters. The girl begins early in life to fit
herself for her profession. The work is less severe than that of an author.
Painting does not require such close application of mind, nor is it necessary
to spend so much time in solitude, nor are the expense and anxiety so great
as that of authorship. Gratuitous schools of art exist in Paris, where
instruction is given principally in perspective. Most students prosecute the
art in studios, paying from $4 to $6 a month. Most of them spend the whole
day in the studios, from eight in the morning until six in the evening. The
artist that instructs them visits the scholars only two or three times a week.
The studio is a sort of mutual school, where pupils teach each other; they
are of all ages. All conditions of society are represented. Three kinds of
painting are done by them—face or portrait, landscape, and flowers. Most
of the girls of the higher classes prefer landscape. Female artists compete
with men, and wear their hair short. Few women like the physical fatigue of
a painter's life. There is not the same play for coquetry in artists, as in
singers or actors. It requires great perseverance for a female artist to acquire
firmness of execution; she does not possess it to the same extent as man.
Some artists are willing merely to copy paintings, paint portraits, and give
lessons. The school of landscape painting is one well fitted for young and
original talent. Women succeed in painting portraits; also, in painting
flowers and fruit; very few have tried historical paintings." Painting is

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certainly a profitable employment for a lady artist of superior ability, if she
can have enough to do. Miss F., New York, established a life school for lady
artists. One subject is used at a time; the classes are limited—two classes—
eight or ten pupils in each. Those that need instruction will pay $12 for
twenty-two lessons; those without instruction, $6. There will be two sittings
a week, of from three to four hours. A person of sensitive, nervous type,
susceptible to every impression of a pleasant kind, is most likely to succeed
as an artist. Mr. R. Peale told me that many ladies in Europe paint portraits.
He considered it a higher style than landscape, or still life. He thinks
painting itself not injurious to the health. The turpentine used is sanitary,
and the white lead is deleterious only when taken into the lungs. What is
inhaled in breathing can do no harm. Mr. Peale thought that the principal
reason of artists being so poor in health, is because of their long and close
confinement indoors. In painting the first coats are often applied by an
assistant, employed by the artist; and in some cases, by the students of the
artists. Miss Merrifield, of England, has written a work on the art of
painting. A number of ladies in England, and in the United States, are
winning a reputation as artists. The prospect to lady artists in the United
States is very encouraging. Ladies are allowed the privilege, on proper
application, to copy paintings in the Academy of Fine Arts, Philadelphia,
the Düsseldorf, and the Bryant galleries, New York. According to the census
of 1850, there were 2,093 male artists; but there are said to be not more than
600 or 700 superior artists in the United States. The patronage the best
receive is such as to keep them well employed. A meagre support and a long
life of labor are necessary to establish a reputation as an artist, even to one
that has talent. But the way in which most of our first-class artists live, that
are prudent and steady in their habits, and possess any business
qualifications, contradicts the opinion, quite common, that an artist's life
must always be one of self denial and poverty. We think artists fare as well
as most people, and we do think it a life very inviting to the young ladies of
our country. Those that have the time, the means, and the talents, will find it
an absorbing, a fascinating employment. Women succeed best in painting
pictures of their own sex, and of children. The more tender and delicate
organizations are best suited to their talents. Most of our artists live in the
metropolis, New York; the Western country is too new and crude. There are
materials enough, but not much appreciation of talent. Besides there is less

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wealth, and another thing is, that artists must keep themselves where
mention will now and then be made of their pictures, to bring them into
notice, and where the most ready sale will be found for them. During the
last few years a taste has been developed in St. Louis, that promises some
golden fruit. A gallery of paintings has lately been opened there. Why is it
that a talent for painting and poetry is so often combined? Is it that the
quiet, contemplative state that produces poetical inspirations also favors the
visible expression of beautiful thoughts? A poet painter is more frequently
to be seen than a poet musician. One, I suppose, of a quick, lively
disposition, and very impressible, might be more likely to possess musical
talent than one of a quiet, thoughtful nature. But genius is not fettered by
temperament. There is a society of female artists in London; the first public
exhibition of their paintings took place in June, 1857. It is managed by a
committee of eight ladies, and bound by twenty-three articles. A portrait
painter writes: "The artist requires a high, well-developed anterior brain, a
healthy body; and a brain and body well regulated and balanced; a love of
the beautiful that inspires the character with patience and indomitable
perseverance, and a contempt for applause; for 'art is long,' and, unless one
is willing to 'scorn delights and live laborious days,' he can never meet with
real success. If women can attain to excellence as artists, they can command
the same remuneration as men receive. Art knows no sex." A professional
artist remarked to me: "Amateur painters never attain excellency, because it
requires not only talent, but constant application." I think if there is
anything that should have its full value, it is a painting, because of the
patience and perseverance necessary for an artist to excel, and the long and
costly preparation requisite. It commands, too, a certain style of talent that
many do not possess. In addition to this, those who can afford to buy
paintings are those who can afford to pay a good price.
67. Animals. We know of no artist in this country whose talents have
been devoted to the painting of animals, and of but one lady, in any country,
that has distinguished herself in that line—the far famed Rosa Bonheur.
68. Banners. We saw an ornamental sign painter decorating a large flag.
Stars are painted on the silk, and then sized and gilt. The flag was stretched
on a frame like a piece of tapestry, but upright like an easel. Mr. M. had

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never known of any women being employed in the trade. He decorated
banners for processions, political campaigns, &c. This is evidently a field
for female industry.
69. Crayon and Pastel. Crayon drawing seems to have been much in
vogue in Italy in the seventeenth century; and we read of an Italian lady, as
far back as 1700, devoting her time to pastel painting. The soft, light,
dreamy effect given by the use of pastels, peculiarly fit the style for the
portraits of ladies and children. Mrs. Dassel, of New York, was noted for
her excellency in the use of pastels. Mrs. Hildreth, of Boston, is very
successful in her crayon portraits. She charges from $30 to $40 a head. Mrs.
M. A. Johnson, of Massachusetts, has spent some years working in crayon.
"Her indefatigable patience in the execution of details, the fidelity of her
likenesses, and the delicate perfection of finish in her pictures, are
remarkable." Miss Clark received $20, and over, for crayon portraits in
Boston, a few years ago. Before Miss Stebbins, of New York, became a
sculptor, she drew crayon portraits, charging $50 per head. Her execution
was said to be clear and forcible.
70. Flowers and Fruit. During the latter part of the eighteenth and the
first half of the present century, a number of lady artists have distinguished
themselves in flower painting. During the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries, a few devoted themselves to it in Holland, Germany, Denmark,
and France. For a few years past some American ladies have turned their
attention to flower painting with marked success. A number in England
have also obtained distinction.
71. Fresco. The wife of an artist told me her husband knew of a fresco
painter in England, whose daughter would assist him when he was hurried.
But the lady thought working with men was objectionable. I heard of a
young lady in New York, who assisted her father, by filling up the outlines,
as he drew them on side walls. Mrs. Ellet states that Angelica Kauffman
assisted her father in the interior decoration of a church, in Schwarzenberg.
She painted, in fresco, the figures of the Twelve Apostles. Her success in an
undertaking so difficult excited considerable attention. Mrs. N., wife of a
fresco painter, thought the work unfit for women, because they would be
compelled to work with men, and stand on platforms to work on ceilings;

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consequently are liable to exposure of person. They might paint the side
walls, and let men paint the ceilings.
72. Historical. But few ladies have devoted themselves to historical
painting. The most lived during the latter part of the last century, and the
commencement of the present. Catarina Vieira painted several church
pictures, after the designs of her brother.
73. Landscape. In the past century Holland gave to the world the largest
number of female landscape painters. America and England bear away the
palm for the present century. American scenery opens as wide a scope for
the talent of the landscape painter as any on the globe. Mrs. ——, one of
the first landscape painters of our country, thinks landscape requires more
care and talent than portrait painting, but the latter pays best. She says there
are some ladies in Boston, who are very good landscape painters. She
thinks it would be very difficult for a young artist to become established in
New York, without influential connections, and the means to keep her until
she does become established; but would be more likely to succeed in cities
in the South and West. She thinks there are good openings in Baltimore, for
artists of every kind. She says art is much more encouraged in the United
States during the last few years, and a good artist need not fear starving.
The artists of New York have three receptions during the year. The object is
to make known their paintings, with a view to selling. At the last annual
sale of pictures for the New York Artists' Fund, $2,000 were received. Some
artists copy a landscape exactly as they see it; some select the most
beautiful parts of different landscapes, and combine them; and a few draw
entirely from imagination. Good painters of scenes for theatres, I have been
told, often receive from $25 to $40 per week.
74. Marine. Some very good marine views have been executed in this
country, but none by ladies.
75. Miniature Painters. "We may run back as far as the twelfth century,
and find a few miniature painters among the fair sex. Margaretta von Eyck
devoted most of her time to painting miniatures, in the fifteenth century. In
the seventeenth century, an Italian lady of Palermo distinguished herself as
a painter in oils. Mrs. Wright, an English miniature painter, died in 1802;

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and Maria Conway was a noted miniature painter, living in London, who
died in 1821. In the seventeenth century, Maria Rieger was employed to
paint miniatures in the aristocratic circles of Germany. In the same century,
a Swiss lady, Anna Wossar, began at the early age of thirteen to win a name
in the same branch of painting. In the same century, almost every country in
Europe gave birth to one." Mad. Goldbeck, of English birth; Mrs. Hill, of
Boston; Miss C. Denning, of Plattsburg; Miss Anne Hall and Miss O'Hara,
in New York, are the principal miniature painters in the United States. It
was reported that Miss H. occasionally received as high as $500 for a
miniature. Mrs. Hill received from $75 to $100 for a miniature. The
popularity of photographs has caused many portrait and miniature painters
to devote themselves to that branch of art. Some artists succeed in giving an
ideal, spirituel beauty, truly astonishing. I think it is more observable in
miniatures on ivory than any other style. Mr. W. writes: "In the department
of miniature painting women find profitable employment and are ofttimes
very expert at the work. I know a lady in Washington who paints very
beautiful miniatures, for which she receives from $10 to $15. This is very
nearly the same rate paid to men. Woman's delicate sense of touch and
facility of expression make it a branch for which she is especially fitted."
76. Panoramas, we suppose, have pretty well paid their way, particularly
the first that were exhibited; but we know not that any lady has ever
engaged in this branch of painting. Mr. D., a scenic and panoramic artist,
says the "decorative workshops" of Paris are 250 feet long, and 50 feet
wide. The cloth for panoramas is laid on the floor, and the paint then
applied, as it would run if hung up. There are galleries around the walls,
some distance above, from which the artist may judge of the effect of his
painting. Many dioramas are used, and might be colored by ladies.
Panoramas have not been so common since Banvard painted his. Painting
them does not always pay for the trouble and expense. It requires a certain
order of talent for painting panoramas, and probably as high an order as any
other.
77. Portrait. "Lala, though not a native of Rome, exercised her
profession in that city during the youth of Marcus Varo, painting portraits of
women. Her pictures were better paid for than those of any other painter of

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her time. Portrait and character drawing have ever exercised the talents of
the first-class artists." Mary Beale was a celebrated portrait painter, who
lived in the reign of Charles II.; and Anna Killigrew painted the portraits of
James II. and his queen. An artist told me that it requires the most intense
mental application to bring out a variety in the expression of the
countenances of some sitters, and difficult to seize the most happy
expression. An ambrotype copy should be kept for the colorist to look at
occasionally, while progressing with his work. He thinks seven hours a day
enough for an artist, when his mind is exercised with his work. After so
long an application, he might turn his attention advantageously to some
style of painting more mechanical in its nature, that will be an occupation to
his body and a relief to his mind. A portrait painter writes me in answer to
some questions: "The artist's labor cannot well be intrusted to another. In
France there are female portrait painters, who are said to execute such
works with more delicacy and profit than men. The employment is not
unhealthy, unless the laborer confines herself too long in a poorly ventilated
room. Women are paid by the piece, when employed by artists. I would say,
in general terms, why women are not better paid is owing, doubtless, to a
very foolish idea that, in all respects, they are not so reliable. Perhaps a
remnant of a more barbarous period has something to do with it. In inferior
conditions of society women are always looked upon as inferior creatures.
Women have done great things in art. See the career of Rosa Bonheur,
Angelica Kauffman, Miss Sharp, of London, and, in our own country, Mrs.
L. M. Spencer and Miss Hosmer." Some people are gifted with a love for,
and success in, one style, and some in another. Our nation, composed as it is
of representatives from all lands, will give fair play to the best powers of
the portrait painter. Miss G. thinks a lady of talent, by close application,
with an extensive respectable connection, can establish herself in New York
as an artist, and earn a livelihood by the products of her pencil. She charges
as much for a crayon portrait as for one in oil. She succeeds best in crayons.
$60 is her price for a large portrait; $10 or $15 more, with hands.
"Mademoiselle Rosée, born in Leyden, in 1632, deserves a place among
eminent artists for the singularity of her talents. Instead of using colors,
with oil or gum, she used silk for the delicate shading. It can hardly be
understood how she managed to apply the fibres, and to imitate the flesh

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tints, blending and mellowing them so admirably. She thus painted portraits,
as well as landscapes and architecture."
78. Water Colors. Much improvement has taken place in this style of
painting during the last few years. Fanny Corbeaux is mentioned as a
superior English painter in water colors, of the present century.

79. Painters of Dial Plates.

This is rather an artistic employment, but poorly paid. All the clock faces
used in the East are said to be painted by women. Men would not do it for
the prices that are paid. In Boston is a large factory where a number of girls
are employed in painting hard dial plates—that is, enamelled. I saw a Swiss
lady in New York who paints silver-faced dial plates. She and a gentleman
in Hoboken (she told me) are the only persons in this country who paint that
style. The drying of hard dial plates she thought to be bad on the health,
because of the great heat to which a person is exposed in placing the enamel
in the furnace, and attending to it while there. Mixing the enamel could be
done by women. When learning to paint dial plates in Switzerland, she paid
$3 a week for instruction and board, but for a sleeping room separately.

80. Picture Restorers.

E. says he has been thirty years engaged in restoring paintings and
engravings. He thinks it is more of a natural gift than anything else. He has
made money by it. His sons, who have been ten years employed as
draughtsmen, cannot succeed, with all the instruction he has given them. To
succeed requires the talents and experience of an artist. He never adds paint
when any is left, but merely restores it. If it is gone, he supplies it. B. says,
restoring paintings is a work of all time. The prospect of a lady succeeding
is poor. She cannot use the heavy iron (twenty-five pounds) necessary for
ironing the lining on the picture. (But that part is merely mechanical work,
and can be done by a man.) The greatest aim with most restorers is to
imitate the old masters. Mrs. C., whose husband is a picture liner, says there
is a great wear and tear of mind in that business. A restorer may injure a

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picture, and have it thrown upon his hands, and have to pay ten times its
value. Restoring is the most difficult, lining the most laborious. She never
heard of any one being taught. I should think a restorer would find it
desirable, if not essential, to visit the galleries of Europe, and study the
works of the old masters. The business requires considerable artistic taste
and knowledge, but, in our large cities, may after a while present a field for
qualified women.

81. Piano Tuners.

I think a piano tuner might form a class of ladies, and give instruction in the
art. $1 is the usual price for tuning a piano in the city. One should have an
acute sense of hearing, to succeed; and he should commence early to
cultivate that sense. It is very necessary to know how to make a nice
discrimination of sounds. Practice in that is best gained in a piano factory.
Some could learn the principles in half a day. More depends on practice,
and a native talent for it, than anything else. At Mr. W.'s is a very superior
tuner, and he has been at it but a few months. It requires strength of wrist,
and a rather long arm. The change of posture and strain on the back is
considerable. There is not one good tuner in fifty. Mr. W. thinks a lady
might be a tuner. He says it is not necessary that a person should know how
to play on an instrument, but it is better. A tuner in his factory receives $3 a
day. Regulating is done by the touch, tuning by the ear. If a lady could
obtain the tuning of the pianos of her friends, they might speak to others,
and in that way she might succeed in obtaining sufficient custom to make a
very comfortable support. It might also bring out any musical talent the
individual possesses. While piano tuners are learning, if they practise long
at a time, they often experience a confusion of sounds, and are not able to
distinguish correctly. I was told by another manufacturer, it is not at all
necessary to be a player to make a good tuner, as the two are entirely
distinct. There is a great difference in the abilities of tuners. There is much
difference naturally in the sense of hearing in different individuals: there is
much from training, there is much from the aptness of a pupil, and in the
application. When they take a boy as an apprentice, they keep him at first to
sweep the room, and go errands, and give him instruction, probably an hour

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at a time, in tuning. Longer time would confuse a learner. They have had a
tuner for three years, that they can now send to tune pianos for concerts;
but, a year ago, they could not. Two piano tuners (women) are mentioned in
the census of Great Britain. Mr. W. had two or three ladies to learn piano
tuning in his factory. They were music teachers, living in villages and the
country, who could not engage a tuner oftener than once in two or three
months, when the tuner would come around. He thinks ladies could not
make very good tuners, because it requires great strength in the hand or
wrist, and complete control of the key; for if the key is turned ever so
slightly more than it should be, the wire will break. A manufacturer of
musical instruments writes: "I think women could be placed in a situation
profitable to themselves and the community by learning to tune pianos and
melodeons, which I believe they have the skill and capacity to do. They
would also find it profitable, in some places, to instruct juvenile classes of
both sexes in sacred music."

82. Plaster Statuary.

The few women in this country who work in plaster of Paris, are, as far as
we know, natives of other countries. There is an old Italian woman in
Baltimore who makes and sells works in plaster. Casts are sometimes taken
by women, but rarely. Casts of living persons are taken by having the
individual breathe through iron tubes placed in the nostrils. Casts are also
taken from reliefs, statues, and models. They require less care than the first
mentioned. Fruit is imitated in this material, and colored exactly like the
original. I saw a case that had been prepared by a lady for the rooms of the
American Institute, New York. The librarian thought several collections
might be disposed of to agricultural societies and farmers. It would pay
well, and take but little time to learn. It would require a nice discernment of
colors and shades, and neat, careful workmanship. In Brooklyn, I was told
by a boy, that did not look to be more than 14 or 15 years of age, that he had
been working in plaster of Paris for three years. His was the architectural
branch. The first year he received $1.50 per week; next year, $2; and the
next, $3. He thinks a woman could do any of the work. The moulds for
some parts are made of wax and rosin; some of sulphur, and some of plaster

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of Paris. The moulds are tied together, and the liquid plaster poured in. It
hardens in half an hour. Mr. W., a plaster of Paris worker, says the whole of
the work could be done by women. Modelling requires practice in drawing,
and a knowledge of geometrical figures. Inventive talent finds a ready field
for exercise. A good moulder is paid $2.50 a day. The study of architectural
ornaments and books much facilitates the advancement of the art.
Modelling and casting are distinct branches. Most employers pay boys
thirty-seven cents a day for casting; but to learn modelling, it is customary
for the learner to pay a premium. Another maker of house ornaments said
modelling could be learned in six months, and when a person has learned,
he can earn from $3 to $5 a day of ten hours. One must know how to draw
in order to model. Another proprietor told me he had thought of employing
girls to break off the edges of architectural ornaments. They now have boys,
and pay from $3 to $9 per week. Modellers can earn $2, $2.50, and $3 per
day. He paid $2.50 a day, for a year, to one man. At a large store for the sale
of plaster of Paris articles in New York, the proprietor, a gentlemanly
Italian, said he would be willing to give instruction to a class of ladies in
modelling, moulding, casting, and polishing. He would charge $2 for two
hours' instruction, and thinks, after a lesson every day for three months, and
some practice in the intervals, his pupils would have no difficulty in
prosecuting the work alone. It soils the clothes very much. His daughter
learned it, but prefers embroidery. One of the Pisani brothers told me that in
Italy and Paris women work at the business. Much ornamental work is
executed in alabaster, spar, composition, and plaster of Paris. None of them
are unfit for women. A more desirable occupation, with the exception of its
want of cleanliness, a woman could not engage in, than plaster of Paris
modelling. An Italian plaster image maker in Boston writes me: "We
employ about 60 women. Women are employed at this business in Florence,
Rome, and Milan. I get about $10 per day, and pay women $3 per day,
working ten hours. I pay both by the piece and by the day. As a general
thing, we pay men better than women. It requires some genius and a
lifetime to learn the business. The prospects for employment are good in
Boston, and there is a pretty lively demand for hands. All the women I
employ are Italians. Women are decidedly superior workers. The business
can be carried on in any part of the United States. Women might be
employed in taking casts from the dead, if they have sufficient nerve. I have

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a peculiar fancy for this branch of the work, and do not consider it
unhealthy."

83. Painters of Plates for Books.

Hundreds of thousands of plates are annually colored in London, and some
in this country. The neatness and patience of women fit them admirably for
this work. It is an agreeable, but at present not a very constant or profitable
employment. The coloring of lithographs in printing has done away with
much hand coloring. The painting of stereoscopic plates has given
employment to some ladies, and does not require much skill or taste. The
gentleman who prepared stereoscopic plates for the Messrs. A., employed
several ladies, to whom he paid on an average from $9 to $10 a week,
working by the piece. Botanical plates are mostly colored by hand. The
gentleman who prepares the fashion plates of the Ladies' American
Magazine employs women, paying from $4 to $7 a week, according to
application and rapidity of execution. They work from eight till dark, in
winter, and by the week, not the piece. It requires but a few weeks to learn.
He has stereoscopic views also painted by women. They receive rather
better prices, as it requires some artistic taste and more care. The universal
complaint among employers is, that their best workwomen will get married
and leave them. If women were better paid, employers would not be so
likely to lose them. A few years ago, we saw a newspaper statement to this
effect: When maps were colored by hand in New York, girls were paid from
three cents to ten cents a sheet, and they earned from $3 to $5 a week. A
few years back, it was estimated that there were two hundred female paint
colorers at the top of the profession, who made excellent wages by coloring
costly engravings. The colorers of plates in Leslie's Magazine pay by the
hundred or thousand. The first year, a learner is paid but little. If she
succeeds right well in that time, she is then paid according to the quality
and quantity of her work, earning from $3 to $5 per week. They must work
in the shop, so the superintendent can see if it is properly done, or reject and
have altered such plates as are not. All seasons are alike. A manufacturer of
children's toy books told me he employed girls for coloring, paying by the
piece. They earned each from $3 to $3.50 a week. They used stencil plates.

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He generally kept them employed all the year round, but the occupation is
full. A German print colorer told me he employed thirty girls till the panic,
paying by the piece from $3 to $3.50 a week. Stencil plates of varnished
paper were used. He paid his workers from the first, and they could either
sit or stand while at work. Another paint colorer told me his girls earned
from $4 to $4.50 a week, for coloring the finest prints, working only in
daylight. A manufacturer of valentines and children's toy books told me his
girls painted valentines in winter, and toy books in summer. He pays two of
his girls by the week $7 each, and none of the rest less than $4 a week.
They work from nine to ten hours a day. The use of stencils by Germans has
reduced the price of such work. He could get girls to do book coloring for
$2 a week, but prefers to retain his old hands constantly. Most colorers of
prints work at home. A getter up of gentlemen's fashion plates told me he
pays ten cents for coloring a large sheet containing several figures, and the
worker finding her own materials. No one could earn the salt of her bread at
such rates. Another print colorer told me it requires from two to six weeks
to learn, according to the ability of the learner. Sometimes he has
Government work that must be done hurriedly. They have least work from
New Year to March. Some print colorers pay by the week; $5 is a good
price. I saw an engraving on the wall representing an English barnyard, for
which the proprietor was paid $3 for coloring, while he pays the lady who
does it, $2.25. Some ladies, he says, can earn from $10 to $12 a week.

84. Photographists and Colorists.

Mr. F. says they would employ good lady artists, if they could get them; but
ladies do not succeed so well, because they do not have such an efficient
course of training—do not go through the same gradations in a preparation
for the work. They mostly employ men that are foreigners to color. A
colorist of photographic views for stereoscopes says he pays a lady to color
for him $6 a gross. English ladies color best. The firm with which he is
connected cannot get their coloring done in New York, so have most of it
done in London; and as work is cheaper, it costs them no more with the
addition of transportation. At one photographic establishment in
Philadelphia, the proprietor told us that several artists now devote their time

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to the coloring of photographs. He pays one lady at the rate of $12 a week.
She is employed on the low-priced pictures, such as are sold for $5,
exclusive of frame. The portraits range from $75 up. The lady painter is
daughter of an English artist. She works all the hours of daylight, when
required—sometimes only six hours. B. has at different times encouraged
and employed female artists; has never met with any one who excelled, but
does not doubt they might do so if properly trained. He had a lady partner in
daguerreotyping and photographing. She was very poor when she
commenced, but, while engaged in it, supported herself and children, and
educated them, and left $3,000. He told me of two ladies making a
handsome support by coloring photographs. His best pictures are painted by
gentlemen artists. He thinks the taking of photographs not so suitable for
women, because it is dirty work; that is, the nitrate of silver that gets on the
fingers stains them like indelible ink—a small difficulty, I think, in the way
of a woman that has a living to make. There are several ladies in
Philadelphia who make their living by painting photographs. Some ladies
have quitted the profession of teaching to become photographers. Ladies are
sometimes employed in photographic galleries, to wait upon company,
agree upon prices, deliver the work, and receive pay. For such services they
are paid from $3 to $5 per week, according to the amount of business done.
Photographers work from eight to ten hours. Some think the business
unhealthy, because of the gases that arise from the combination of
chemicals. Women that have had practice in drawing and painting can give
a pretty and delicate touch in the coloring of photographs. L., photographist,
employs two ladies to color photographs in water colors. He teaches it for
$10. A good colorist, with constant employment, can earn from $10 to $15 a
week. He thinks there are openings in the South. Some prefer water
coloring to oil, because you can see the pictures in any light. Oils are better
for large pictures that you see at a distance. Painting in water colors does
not pay the artist so well as painting in oils. Misses E., New York, are busy
all the time. They execute different styles of painting, but have lately found
it more profitable to color photographs. They each earn from $12 to $15 per
week coloring photographs, when busy. Their work is all brought to the
house. They have had several offers to go South, and better prices than they
receive in New York. Miss E., with whom I talked, thought if any ladies
would learn thoroughly, and could not obtain painting to do, they could

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easily obtain situations as teachers of painting. I saw the wife of an artist
who gives instruction in drawing and painting. She told me her husband is
very conscientious and will not recommend any one to spend their time and
money learning to draw and paint, if he finds they have not talent of that
kind. Some people think they possess genius, and can excel in painting,
even if they commence when thirty or more years of age; but it is best for
an artist to commence early in life. The talent of some is developed in a
shorter time than others. One may learn in three months what another could
not in six. Her husband can advance an American pupil as far in two years
as he did his German pupils in four. He thinks the Americans are more apt,
and acquire more rapidly. She thought a lady would not find any difficulty
in obtaining constant employment as a painter. Miss J., Philadelphia, has as
much to do at coloring photographs as she wishes. It takes her about a day
to color a small one, for which she receives $1. For those pictures on which
there is more work, the prices are higher. The painting of ivorytypes is more
expensive. An ivorytype the size of a $1 photograph would cost $10. Most
photographers send their coloring out of the establishment to be done, and
pay by the piece. In several States, women have been successfully engaged
as daguerreans and photograph colorers. Some have travelled through the
country, stopping in various towns to carry on their business. Some
knowledge of chemistry is necessary for a photographer. One photographer
writes: "Women are employed in every country where there are first-class
galleries. It is unhealthy in the operating rooms, on account of the acids and
poisons. We pay $4 a week to ladies to attend the show case and wait upon
customers. We pay men $6 and $7, because they can do more by one third
of the same kind of work than a woman. Any part of the business can be
performed by a woman. We pay girls $4 from the commencement. They
spend eight or ten hours at the gallery, but are not employed all the time.
They are as comfortable as in their own parlors receiving visitors. Ladies
prefer one of their own sex in the reception room. There is always demand
for superior work in our line; consequently, a prospect of employment so
long as the world stands. In Syracuse, fall and winter are the most busy
seasons." Mr. A. says the occupation of portrait and miniature painters is
gone since the discovery of the photographer's art. He thinks ladies are as
capable of arriving at great excellence as men in painting, if they will only
apply themselves as closely. Their knowledge of colors probably makes

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them excel in that respect. He teaches photographic coloring, charging $1 a
lesson of one hour. A mechanical execution in coloring is gained in a short
time, but a good photographist ought to be an experienced artist. Mr. R. told
me his girls are engaged in painting and mounting. He pays one $7 a week,
and the other $5. An individual that is bright, intelligent, and capable of
rapid tuition, could learn in six months. They spend from eight to six
o'clock in the gallery. They have but a few minutes recess at noon, as that is
the most busy time. He prefers women for some parts of the work. Men are
more powerful artists, give a better expression; women are more careful,
and give a finer finish. I talked with a photographic colorist, who gives
instruction to a few ladies in coloring, and employs four. He thinks women
are generally better judges of colors than men, but some women never learn
the shades. (I think, unless it arises from some physical defect, it is because
they are not taught to distinguish colors when children. It is difficult to
teach a person the careful use of any of the senses if they are neglected in
childhood.) The work requires some artistic taste. A knowledge of drawing
and colors, and a good education, are essential to success. A young lady in
the business should be social in her nature, and of pleasing address. I would
think an artist of any kind would need the talent of drawing to the surface
the soul of his or her sitter, for much of the beauty of a picture depends
upon expression. Mr. G. thinks water colors neater for ladies than oil. The
employment is now in its infancy. The taste for photographs is increasing.
There are now one hundred engaged in the business where fifteen years ago
there was but one. Photographists are usually employed from nine to six, or
from eight to five. The remuneration is good when constant employment
can be had. The best locality is a growing place. The business would grow
up with the place. The prices paid enable ladies to obtain boarding in houses
that possess the comforts, and even the luxuries of life. Summer is the
dullest season, but much depends on weather. French women generally
succeed well in coloring. Some English ladies, also, do well. Mr. G. gives a
lady colorer $12 a week. Mr. B., a photographist, writes: "Women are
employed in my branch of art in England. I would like to find competent
assistance, but have been unable to do so. The work is not unhealthy, but it
is very trying to the eyes. I should think that in many respects the work
would be well adapted to females, but think, from trials that I have made,
that the mathematical precision of the work is a feature unfavorable to the

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feminine mind. Were I to find such assistance as I would be satisfied with, I
would pay according to capacity and work. Thorough artistic education and
natural talents are essential. In point of taste, as regards color and elegance,
I think women might be superior; as regards precision and firmness of
minute work, I am uncertain. It would require considerable time and
patience to learn the art." One of the proprietors of a photographic
establishment in Philadelphia writes: "I employ from two to four ladies in
painting photographic pictures, and pay by the week from $3 to $6. They
work eight hours a day. I pay men about twice as much, because the men,
being longer at the business, work better and quicker. It requires several
years' practice to gain a moderate acquaintance with this branch. It is our
opinion, that women are well adapted for most branches of photographing,
and for some they would be superior to men, provided always, that they
bring to the work a certain degree of education, and some natural talent. We
suppose the reason they are not more employed in this and similar pursuits,
is, that young women of a certain degree of education, are seldom eager for
any sort of employment. Besides, in this business, it requires years of
earnest application to master it, and before this is accomplished, many
marry. The employer feels little security in retaining a woman at the
business after going through years of instruction, because in many, or most
cases, they marry, and must attend to their domestic duties. With a man the
reverse takes place. He becomes a better and more steady worker after
marriage." "We have a great improvement in photography by its
combination with lithography. By the process adopted, the object to be
represented is photographed at once on the stone, and thus the intermediate
operations are avoided." In times of excitement, like the present, when
soldiers are going from their homes, there is much for the artists to do.

85. Preparers of Scientific Plates.

Mrs. B. has supported herself for some time by making drawings of fossils
for works on geology. She is now doing one for a work on Niagara. It
requires a great deal of care. It is very trying to the eyes as the engraver
imitates every line made by the pencil, and a magnifying glass is of course
much used for presenting enlarged views of the smallest fossils. I think she

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is paid by the piece or set, for the work. Of course this pursuit must be
limited.

86. Seal Engravers.

Seal engraving is cutting in a precious stone, letters or a device. The cutting
is done by means of a lathe and sharp cutting tools. Diamond dust and oil
are used. The lathe is moved by treadles. The finer the work, the smaller the
tools. Taste, good eyesight, and a knowledge of form are necessary. No
pattern is used. The hand and eye must serve as guides. It would be a very
pretty occupation for women, but would require time, patience, and
practice. Seal engravers in New York earn from $10 to $12 per week, but
the occupation there is filled. Mrs. Ellet, in her "Women Artists," mentions
a Prussian and a German lady as being noted for their skill in cutting
precious stones. A seal engraver told me he does not pay apprentices the
first year, but the second year $2, and from that up, according to the abilities
of the worker. It requires from four to seven years to learn all the branches
thoroughly. Another engraver told me the business is not worth learning
now that gum mucilage has done away with sealing wax, and consequently
the use of seals. The designs for seals are usually taken from a heraldry
book; always when for a coat of arms. Such seals are in greater demand in
Europe. Seal engravers in this country do not have constant employment.
They cut fancy seals when not otherwise occupied. The work can be done at
night by a good light.

87. Sculptors.

Properzia di Rossi, Maria Domenica, Anna Maria Schurmann, Maria von
Steinbach, Anne Seymour Damer, Falicie de Faveau, and in our own
country and time Miss Lander, Harriet Hosmer, and Miss Stebbins, are
among those who have proved the ability of woman to succeed in sculpture.
Sculptors, it should be understood, seldom, if ever, labor with the chisel.
They prepare models, which are made in a composition of clay or wax, and
then superintend the imitation of these in marble. Sculpture is the chastest
imitation of nature and the highest expression of the form and spirit of

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beauty known to art; and while woman is possessed of the finest sensibility
and most exquisite perceptions, there can certainly be no reason why she
should not succeed in it. Mr. Lagrange, in urging the establishment of
Government schools of design in France, says: "Painting, engraving, and
sculpture, encouraged as music and dancing are, promise equal success;
they provide a more assured support in its being better acquired, and a more
substantial renown, and especially a calmer and chaster existence. Painter,
engraver, or sculptor, it is her works alone that claim the public eye. Her
person is sacred; no one dares to lift the veil that conceals her countenance;
no one presumes to call upon her to courtesy to feeble applause. A young
girl, chaste and pure, she may watch by the lonely hearthside; a wife, she
may not see her smiles and caresses in dispute as the seal of a purchased
rite; a mother, she may educate her children under a name they will never
be tempted to despise. Exhibitions, open to everybody, will afford the
public an opportunity to measure her talent or genius; critics will confine
their attacks to her works; and praise, if she deserves it, will reach her eyes
and ears in terms that she will be able to listen to or peruse without the
accompaniment of a blush." Mrs. Wilson, wife of a physician living in
Cincinnati, has executed busts of her husband and children that are said to
be excellent likenesses. Mrs. Dubois, of New York, has sculptured in
marble several specimens. Misses Lander and Stebbins, and Miss Hosmer,
we believe, find their art lucrative. Sculptors should attend anatomical
dissections; should learn the structure of the human frame, and the
appearance of the muscles under the various conditions to which
circumstances may subject them. Indeed the study of anatomy is essential to
success. In sculpture, we closely imitate the parent, nature. The most
superior specimens of statuary are said to be modelled after nature, as seen
in the unlaced, unpinched, unaltered original—just as nature's own hand has
chiselled. In sculpture, modelling is the inventive part of the work, and
requires taste and genius; copying is a merely mechanical operation. A
pursuit of this kind, if followed from the love of it, becomes a soul-
engrossing study. Means or friends to rely upon, for at least two years,
during the time of study, will be necessary in most cases; for if the artist is
to support herself while she studies, only the highest earnestness can sustain
her; but then those that are not in earnest should not undertake this art—for
"it is better to pursue a frivolous trade in a serious manner, than a sublime

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art frivolously." Without very decided talent it will be some time before a
sculptor comes sufficiently into notice to sustain herself entirely by the
filling of orders. "Sculpture has become almost a fashion in Paris; but a
woman finds it difficult to devote herself to studies pertaining to the art.
Though greater in number than painters, they have accomplished scarcely
any remarkable works." Many women who might not undertake sculpture,
might learn to work in marble for sculptors. A marble worker in its various
branches, writes me: "I think women might be very well employed in the
lighter parts of finishing. I suppose they are not so employed, because there
has not yet been any organized and extended effort made to introduce them
into this line of business. I am not sure, but think it likely, women are
employed to a limited extent in chiselling marble in Italy and France. Miss
Hosmer has done more than mould for others to copy. She has herself
handled the mallet and chisel. The employment in general is healthy; but
lettering, and indeed fine chiselling of any sort, requiring the eye to be
brought near to the work, raises a dust, which is breathed into the lungs—
though the injury is not very apparent till the lapse of years reveals it. The
qualifications desirable are a good judgment, and eye for form, and a
certain slight of hand. The prospect for marble workers is good in all
departments." On the other hand, another writes: "Sculpture is too laborious
for women, and if women practise the art, they hire all the work done." In
Rome, two thousand women serve as models to painters and sculptors.

88. Steel and other Engravers.

Steel and copper engraving require a very good knowledge of drawing, and
careful manipulation. A great advantage has been gained by substituting
steel for copper plates. One beauty of steel engraving is that it can be done
at home. Men like easy employments, and so have appropriated this one. An
engraver must learn to convey the feelings of an artist. Lithography has
seriously interfered with steel engraving, and photography has to some
extent. There are very few journeymen engravers. Most go into business for
themselves. Some women are employed in engraving copper cylinders for
calico prints. Line and stipple are the most expensive engraving. Mezzotint
is cheaper. Boys practise on copper, and do not work on anything valuable

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until they are able to engrave well. One reason that engravers do not like to
take apprentices is, that they cannot do any thing under two or three years,
of any value to their employer, but expect to be paid from the first. Besides,
an engraver seldom has enough of such engraving as a learner can do to
keep him constantly employed. Those who receive apprentices in New York
take them for five years, and pay something from the first; but very few
men in New York, in any branch of work, are willing to take apprentices.
Much of the success of a learner depends on his inclination, taste, and
individual exertion; and when he possesses these, they render him valuable
to his master—so it proves a matter of mutual interest. All engraving is
mechanical to a certain extent, but requires some artistic taste. In "Women
Artists" we find the names of some ladies distinguished as engravers in
Italy, France, Germany, and England, in the sixteenth, seventeenth,
eighteenth, and nineteenth centuries. Jane Taylor and her sisters paid their
share of the family expenses by engraving. Miss Caroline Watson was an
engraver of portraits to the queen in the reign of George III. Angelica
Kauffman and Elizabeth Blackwell both engraved on steel. We read: "In
London, recently, one accomplished female engraver has turned her steel
plates into a pleasant country house, which she means to furnish with the
proceeds of her delicate painting on glass." In Paris, during the last thirty
years, quite a number of ladies have earned a livelihood by steel engraving,
and several are now employed there in card engraving, and engraving
fashion plates. There are some engravers in the South and West, but there
are openings for more. A card, seal, medal, and door-plate engraver writes:
"The usual number of hours for engravers are from eight to ten. The
business may be learned in from one to two years, to be of use; but to learn
thoroughly requires three or four years. The business generally pays well by
jobs, and I see no reason why females may not engrave as successfully as
males with the same application."
89. Bank Note Engravers. "Steel engraving was first practised in
England by the calico printers; but it was first employed for bank notes and
for common designs by Jacob Perkins, of Newburyport, Mass." The
American Bank Note Company, New York, employ about sixty girls, forty-
seven of whom are engaged in printing or making impressions; the others in
drying, assorting, and laying together the sheets to be placed under a

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hydraulic press. It requires but a few weeks to learn the part done by girls.
Some are paid $3 and some $3.50 per week. They are mostly American
girls. A lady told me that she heard a girl, who had been employed to cut up
bank notes (done with scissors), say she often earned $9 a week. The
company pay a boy $3 a week from commencement until through his
apprenticeship, which is usually four or five years. Here a man can earn
$100 a week, if a first-class bank note engraver; but in England not more
than $10 or $12. There, however, paper money is but little used; a £5 note
being the smallest in value. Bank note engraving is both mechanical and
artistic. At the office of the National Bank Note Company, a gentleman
showed me the various processes. He had often thought ladies would do
well to learn bank note engraving. I saw two or three gentlemen engraving.
The process is simple, but requires a good deal of patience and practice.
Their girls are employed to place the sheet for an impression under a roller,
and, after the impression is made, remove it. Some receive $3, and some
$3.50 a week. It is dirty work, on account of the oil and ink used. Their girls
wash every evening the blankets used on the cylinders. Bank-note engravers
of the first order receive a salary of $4,000. Some receive from $2,000 to
$3,000 per annum. Bank note engravers work but eight hours a day. Mr. M.
thinks there would not be much difficulty, if a lady wanted to learn bank
note engraving, from the prejudices of men, for some of them are not only
just but generous. One of the gentlemen engraving knew several ladies in
England that were bank note engravers.
90. Card Engravers. I was told by a card engraver that it was not usual
to pay a learner anything. He gives his apprentice only his board the first
year. A card engraver may draw letters well, and not be able to write well,
and vice versa. One should be steady and patient to draw and form letters,
and possess some natural taste, to succeed. It requires also much practice. A
card engraver can earn $5 a day, if he is industrious, and has sufficient
work. A journeyman is paid in proportion to his abilities, from $5 to $25 per
week. Some card engravers earn $2,000 a year, clear of all expenses. The
older a city, the more engraving is done. In Europe, first-class merchants
never use type cards, but engraved ones.

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91. Door Plate Engravers. I was told by a door plate engraver that a
skilful person, who would apply himself closely, could learn the business,
so that, at the end of one year, he could make a living. For door plate
engraving, it is necessary to form letters well. The size of the letters for a
given space must be divided by the eye. It requires great care, as one badly
formed letter would spoil the whole plate. Engraving of any kind fatigues
the back from stooping, and the eyes from straining. In door plate engraving
the eyes suffer least fatigue. Of course less strength is necessary for plate
engraving if the tools are of a good quality and in proper order.
92. Map Engravers. Map engraving is divided into two kinds: the
lettering and plain work. The last can be learned in six months by a person
of taste and talent. The most that is needed is practice. A knowledge of
drawing is not necessary for this branch. There is not much map engraving
done in this country, because of the expense. Most is done in New York and
Philadelphia. The best map engraving done in Paris is executed by ladies.
There are also some ladies employed in map engraving in London, and card
engraving is there quite common for ladies.
93. Picture and Heraldry Engravers. Engraving pictures pays well—a
man often earning $10 a day. A superior landscape engraver calculates to
earn $2,500 a year. Mr. R. historical engraver, does the engraving for the
Cosmopolitan Art Journal. He says: "In England, better prices are paid for
historical engraving than here. Those who do the work receive less, but the
employer has a greater profit than in the United States. More time is
allowed the engraver in England to execute a piece of work." Mr. R. pays
his hands from $7 to $10 a week, and the best historical engraver never gets
in this country over $30 a week. In England the work hours of an engraver
are nine; here seven. He says the art is dying out both here and in England.
It is a something in which we can always be improving. Seven years was
formerly the length of apprenticeship in England, and there an apprentice
was paid nothing while learning; on the contrary, the parent usually pays a
premium of £100. When an apprentice has finished, he will earn £1 a week,
and continue to receive more according to his skill and ability. Some people
send pictures from the United States to England to be engraved, saying they
cannot do such work in this country as in England; while, if they would pay

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the same price, and allow the engravers as much time, it could be done just
as well. Such an engraving as you would pay $150 for here, in England you
would pay $200 for. In England it is customary for an engraver to confine
himself to one style; for instance, in "Falstaff Mustering his Recruits," one
engraver would do the wall, another the figures, and another the drapery.
Mr. R. was paid only $2,000 for engraving "Falstaff Mustering his
Recruits," and it took three men two years. The business is not unhealthy,
and not injurious to the eyesight, although a glass must be used constantly.
Mr. J., historical engraver, used to have persons employed that did the
different parts of a picture, and he paid them each from $15 to $25 a week.
He thinks, of those who learn metal engraving in Europe, not more than
fifty per cent. pursue it as a vocation, and not above four per cent. attain
perfection. Some engraving, both picture and letter, is done by etching, but
the best and most expensive with a graver. Mr. J. M. Sartain writes in
answer to a circular: "I have no females in my employment, because I work
alone. To direct others or alter what they do wrong, takes longer than doing
the whole work myself. Neither do I know of females being employed by
others in my branch of business. But if I were willing to be troubled with
the teaching of any one at all, I should choose a female. This is from my
experience of the males I taught in times past. Women have the requisites
more than men—patience, neatness, delicacy; and the occupation is as
suitable for them as any other they are accustomed to adopt. An unmarried
daughter of mine is about to learn from me, with a view to follow it as a
profession. The chance of employment is however very limited, for the
reason that the cost of printing plates separately necessitates, in an
extensive class of pictorial embellishments, the use of woodcuts. This wood
engraving is equally suited for females, and to a limited extent they are thus
employed. The field in that branch is a wide one already, with a constantly
increasing demand. In my own branch of engraving, the kind of skill
required is that of drawing. The mere mechanical skill required in any kind
of engraving is easily attained; but the art of drawing is the great thing, and
positively demands aptitude and taste—at all events, quite close application
and earnestness. Skill in drawing is a key that admits to a wider range of
arts than I can readily enumerate, and successful and profitable employment
in any engraving depends on that. I am chairman of the committee on
instruction of the Board of Directors of the Pennsylvania Academy of the

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Fine Arts, and in that capacity do all I can (as do also the other directors) to
encourage female talent. We have seven or eight ladies among our students,
and they certainly are fully equal to the males in capacity for acquiring art.
Some model, others only draw. The whole of our academy studies are
gratuitous. For whatever branch of the fine arts is to be followed, the first
requisite is drawing, and the next is drawing, and the third and last is
drawing." Mr. B., heraldic chaser, says there are several processes in
making heraldry plates, sketching, engraving, embossing, chasing, and
burnishing. He used to employ girls to burnish. The making of patterns for
heraldry is never taught in this country to women, as it would cause the
labor of men so employed to depreciate. He pays a man from $15 to $20 a
week for chasing. He charges $1 for finding the coat of arms of an
individual or family.

94. Telegraph Operators.

A new source of employment has been opened by the invention of the
electric telegraph. Most of the telegraphing in England is done by women,
and in the United States a number of ladies are employed as operators. To a
quick and intelligent mind it requires but a short time to learn. An English
paper says: "Here women do the business better than men, because of the
more undivided attention they pay to their duties; but considerable
inconvenience is found to result from their ignorance of business terms,
which causes them to make mistakes in the messages sent. However, a short
course of previous instruction easily overcomes this impediment." We have
been told that, in one telegraph office in London, several hundred women
are employed. I hope the application of steam to the operations of the
electric telegraph may not interfere with the entrance of women into the
occupation. In New Lisbon, Ohio, a young woman was employed, a few
years ago, as principal operator in a telegraph office, with the same salary
received by the man who preceded her in that office. "I was told by her,"
writes my informant, "that several women were qualifying themselves, in
Cleveland, for the same occupation." The ex-superintendent of a line writes:
"I have long been persuaded that ultimately a large proportion of the
telegraphists, employed exclusively for writing, would be females, both

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because of their usually reliable habits, their ability to abstract and
concentrate thought upon their engagements, their greater patience and
industry, and the economy of their wages. In offices where there is a large
amount of business, and, consequently, much intercommunication with
customers, I have supposed the arrangement would be to have a clerk to
receive and deliver communications, and the corps of operators and writers,
composed exclusively of females, in an adjoining or upper room, apart from
public inspection. And to this arrangement, I think, there is at this time very
little to oppose, except the antagonism naturally felt by male operators, who
see in it a loss of employment to themselves, and a want of proper facilities
for teaching and obtaining a complement, in number, of female
telegraphists. Any female proficient in orthography, with an inclination to
useful employment, would make a good telegraphist, and might readily
command, under a system above indicated, a salary of from $300 to $500,
and be profitable to her employers beyond the ordinary male telegraphists
employed under the present arrangement of office. It is in operating by the
Morse system that ladies are mostly or entirely employed. The Morse is the
easiest. They telegraph in small towns, where there is not much to do, and
the compensation is small." The Electric Telegraph Company in London
suggests that women should be employed in preference to men, as working
more rapidly. All the lady telegraphists we have heard of gave satisfaction
to all parties concerned. To Mr. A., connected with the New York and
Boston telegraph line, I am indebted for the following information:
"Women are employed in operating the Morse instrument. They are paid
from $6 to $25 per month, and are paid by the month. For the class of
offices in which females are employed, about the same wages are paid both
sexes. It requires from three to six weeks to learn, and nothing is paid while
learning. The qualifications needed are a fair knowledge of orthography,
arithmetic, geography, and ordinary mechanical ability. We may want a few
operatives, say six annually. The employment is constant, and about ten
hours a day are devoted to work. We employ about fifty women, and they
only at small offices. Nearly all are American. The employment is
comfortable. There are no parts of our occupation suitable for women in
which they are not engaged. They are generally more attentive and
trustworthy than men. The price they pay for board depends on the locality,
say from $1.50 to $2 per week."

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95. Vocalists.

This is an important and profitable employment—one that has secured to
many a poor foreigner visiting this country a snug little fortune. We have
only to cite the cases of Jenny Lind, Garcia, Sontag, Parodi, and Catherine
Hays. It was stated in the New York Tribune of December, 1853, that
Catherine Hays had sent $50,000 to purchase an estate in Ireland. American
talent is in some cases very highly cultivated; but we fear the Scripture
verse applies to the substantial encouragement of native vocalists amongst
us: "A prophet is not without honor, save in his own country, and in his own
house." Too much money and attention, we think, are lavished upon foreign
vocalists, while home talent is depreciated. An American singer must often
go to other countries and acquire a name, before she is received with eclat
in her own. It may be that other countries have the same failing, but, we
think, not to the same extent. Let us love American talent, and encourage it
before every other. Adelaide Patti, Miss Hinckley, and Miss Kellogg are at
present the most noted singers of American birth. Mr. C. told me, that in
New York, lady singers receive from $100 to $400 per annum for singing in
churches. One lady choir-singer of whom we knew, received $500 a year,
singing twice on Sabbath. Not more than from twelve to fifteen lady singers
in New York receive over $350. One lady in a fashionable church receives
$1,000; but she is a widow, and somewhat favored. Another lady, leading
the choir in a Broadway church, receives a salary of $1,000, I have been
told.

96. Wax Work.

I called on two Italians that make wax fruit; their baskets vary in price from
twenty-five cents to $2. It would take a day and a half to make a $2 basket.
The Italian that could speak some English told me that when he goes out to
work, he charges $2.50 a day; but to give lessons, he would charge $2 a day.
He thought an individual might learn in eight, ten, twelve, or fifteen
lessons, according to abilities and taste. Miss W., teacher of wax flowers,
charges $1 a lesson, and thinks eight or ten lessons sufficient. She thinks in
country places there would be openings for teachers. I think, where there

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are large seminaries, a teacher would do better. She says there is an opening
in Troy. If a person has enough to do, it pays well. She makes by hand; they
are more natural than those made by moulds.

97. Wood Engravers.

Much and long-continued toil is requisite for success in wood engraving. A
great deal depends, also, on the talent of the individual. Wood engraving is
a business adapted to women, as it requires mostly patience and application,
and but little physical strength. Mechanical skill is the most that is requisite,
yet, as in everything else, it bespeaks the soul and taste of the originator.
"Women's nimble fingers, accustomed to wield the needle, lend themselves
quite easily to minute operations in the use of small instruments and the
almost imperceptible shades of manipulation that wood engraving exacts."
As more publishing is done in our country, of course there will be a greater
demand for wood engravers. A great many newspapers now contain a large
number of woodcuts, as Harper's Weekly, Frank Leslie's Illustrated News,
&c. Wood engraving has been called into use for Government reports and
scientific works, aside from its extensive demands for periodical literature.
A lady engaged in the business writes of a class in wood engraving: "The
pupils vary so much in ability, application, perseverance, and in the number
of hours devoted to it, that it is impossible to judge what any one may do
who has not made a trial. My own experience is that the practice of wood
engraving brings a sure return for all the outlay of time and trouble spent in
acquiring the art. It would hardly be safe to rely entirely upon the proceeds
of the second year; the third may make up for it. The best wood engraving
is done in England and the United States. In classes of wood engraving in
the schools of design in England, the students are required to produce the
drawing as well as to engrave it." "For a quarter of a century past, many
hundreds of young women, we are assured, have supported themselves by
wood engraving, for which there is now a demand which no jealousy in the
stronger sex can intercept. The effort to exclude women was made in this,
as in other branches of art; but the interests of publishers and the public
were more than a match for it." "In 1839, Charlotte Nesbit, Marianne
Williams, Mary Byfield, Mary and Elizabeth Clint, held honorable positions

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among English wood engravers." Miss F., at Elmira, New York, carries on
business for herself in wood engraving. She learned it at the Cooper
Institute, four years ago. The pupils of that institute canvassed for work,
some two and two, but she went alone, and principally in the lower part of
the city. They visited publishers mostly—she went to manufacturers. She
got an order for $500 worth of engraving at a gas-fixture manufactory. I
have heard that ladies in the school of design, New York, receive the same
price for wood engraving that men would receive. N. Orr, the wood
engraver, thinks the prospect very good for a woman to earn a livelihood at
it. He knows a lady who has not only supported herself but partially
supported her parents by her work. For wood engraving, women usually
receive as good prices as men. The business is increasing. There are none
West, except a few in Cincinnati, and I believe a still smaller number in St.
Louis and Chicago. A person that has any talent for it can earn a living at it
in less than two years' practice. A knowledge of drawing is not essential, as
the drawing is usually put on the wood by the designer. Mr. Orr takes
apprentices, but pays nothing the first year. They are bound to him for five
or six years. Some engravers require a premium. I have been told that
designing requires a very different and much higher order of talent than
wood engraving. One designer can do enough in a day to keep a man busy a
week. New York is the principal city for wood engraving. I think most men,
while engraving, stand; but all the ladies that I have seen at work sat. "A
wood-engraving office in Cleveland employed three girls in 1845, at wages
varying from $3 to $7 per week, according to the experience of each in the
business, being the same that men receive in the same office."

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MERCANTILE PURSUITS.

98. Merchants.

Occasionally we hear such complaints as these: "Women who keep stores of
their own ask higher for their goods than men, and saleswomen are less
obliging than male clerks." Women, as a general thing, do not understand
their business as well as men, and that is the reason they are not so well
liked. Those inclined to be bold, may become pert; and those in poor health,
peevish. "If women were more employed in stores," said Mr. P., "there
would probably be less shopping, but as many goods sold. Young girls that
go shopping to whisper in the ears of clerks, would then find something else
to do." Woman has a power of adaptedness that fits her admirably for the
vocation of a merchant. A friend remarked to me that Mr. Stewart, of New
York, she thought, would employ women in his store, if a large number of
fashionable and influential ladies would petition him to do so. If the retail
merchants of our large cities and towns would combine and employ only
saleswomen, how greatly would they promote the welfare of the nation!
Young men would no longer waste their health, strength, and talents selling
gloves, tape, and dress goods, but would cultivate the soil, or find openings
as traders, speculators, mechanics, and manufacturers, in cities, towns, and
villages of our Western country. They might do something more creditable
to their physical powers, while they gave their half-starved sisters a chance
to earn an honest livelihood. If ladies would patronize those stores only in
which there were saleswomen, and influence their friends to do so,
employers who now engage the service of salesmen would soon learn what
was to their interest, and make a change. Promptness and regularity are
desirable qualifications in a shopkeeper. The business brings those engaged
into intercourse with all classes of people. Mrs. Dall makes this statement:
"It is a singular fact that there are a great many more women in England in
business for themselves than employed as tenders or clerks; while in
America, the fact, at the present day, is directly the reverse." A lady who has

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lived in New York all her life said, if the merchants of the city would
employ women, they could find twenty thousand to-morrow, ready and
willing to enter their stores. In Paris large stores are owned and conducted
by women, and even the importing and exporting of goods is in the hands of
some. The tact and address of French women admirably fit them for
shopkeepers. Many of the smaller fancy and variety stores in our cities are
owned by women, that have by long-continued industry earned a
competency. Lady merchants can to some extent control the taste of the
community where they are; for such articles as they purchase and keep on
hand will be likely to find sale. The taste of the best keepers of dry-goods
and fancy stores, millinery establishments, and embroidery shops will be
displayed in the dress of their patrons. To merchandize extensively, requires
much experience and knowledge of business; but to those that are qualified
it presents an extensive opening for enterprise. Barter, or the exchange of
one kind of goods for another, is very common in the villages and towns of
our country. The Gothscheer (Austrian) women often follow the trade of
peddlers, and are absent from their homes many months, travelling about
the country with staff in hand and a pack at their back. "Advertising and
politeness are the main levers to get customers. Advertising will draw them;
ability to fill their orders will satisfy them; and politeness will induce them
to buy." Quick perceptive powers and judgment are also essential to the
success of merchants. It is very desirable to have a good location for a store.
A lady keeping a small dry-goods store told me she sells $100 worth of
goods a week on an average. She has been nine years in the business, and
constantly gaining trade. She likes rainy Saturday evenings, as she then
sells most. She said one must use judgment in the amount of profit to be
made on various articles. A person must regulate her prices by others. On
some goods she can make but five per cent., and on some others fifty. Many
of the fortunes in Boston are said to have been founded by women engaged
in trade. And the ladies on Nantucket Island during the Revolutionary war
conducted the business of their husbands, fathers, and brothers. A lady
wrote, some years back, of some stores in one of our large cities: "The
proprietors say they give from twenty-five to fifty per cent. more to the
males than to the females of equal talent and capacity, but can give no
reason why they should do it, except that it is the custom, and some parts of
the business require more physical strength, as some articles are too heavy

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to be handled by women." Yet why not, we would ask, place women in the
lighter departments, and pay them exactly what would be paid a man for the
same work? The average wages of females in Philadelphia are $4.50 per
week, though some get as high as $7 or $8, but very few above $6. In a few
of the stores of New York and Philadelphia the business is conducted
entirely by ladies. There is a school of commerce for women at Perth,
France. We read an account some time ago of a colored woman on the
Island of Hayti, who is a wholesale dealer in provisions, and worth from
$15,000 to $20,000, that she has made by her own industry and business
tact. She can neither read nor write, but trusts entirely to her memory. She
sells on credit to retail dealers, and to girls whom she has trained. The
merchants have such unlimited confidence in her, that they will trust her to
any amount. Nearly all the commercial business of Hayti is done by
women.

99. Bookkeepers.

The employment of female accountants is gradually extending in our cities.
In female institutions of learning, and in benevolent institutions, lady
bookkeepers might be very well employed. Indeed, we think, they would
find no difficulty in obtaining situations. We know that many merchants
would employ them, if they were properly qualified. We know of some that
now occupy lucrative situations in fancy dry goods and millinery stores. We
have no doubt but the books of most mercantile men would be more
accurately kept, if their wives and daughters had charge of them. In all
European countries women keep the books of the majority of retail stores.
The books of nine tenths of the retail stores in Paris are kept by women.
They are fenced in, and separated from the saleswomen by a framework of
glass. A number of women are employed as accountants at hotels in Europe.
There is a large school for instruction in bookkeeping in Paris, where the
pupils are practically trained. An exchange of articles of a trivial nature, and
a cheap coin of some kind, are used as a medium of circulation. At one of
the largest wholesale warehouses in Boston, the head corresponding clerk is
a young woman, who writes a beautiful, rapid hand, and fulfils the duties of
the situation to the complete satisfaction of her liberal employer. A practical

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knowledge of arithmetic is necessary for bookkeeping and selling goods—
two of the most inviting openings now presented to women of ordinary
intelligence. The lady who keeps the books of T——'s skirt factory, New
York, receives a salary of $400. Mr. M. prefers lady bookkeepers, because
they are more particular in keeping accounts, and they are more patient in
their calculations. They are, as a general thing, more honest and
conscientious. Women are just as capable of becoming good financiers as
men. Industry, honesty, and promptness, with the ability to write a plain,
correct business letter, ability to calculate rapidly and correctly, with a
knowledge of bookkeeping, certainly should insure a situation to a lady,
where there is a vacancy. It is well, however, for those who have qualified
themselves for bookkeeping, to obtain a certificate: it is a passport that will
aid them in securing a place. The salaries of bookkeepers in New York run
from $250 to $2,500. At a large store, where saleswomen were employed, I
was told they find lady bookkeepers more accurate in their accounts, and
not so likely to appropriate money that don't belong to them. Where a
gentleman bookkeeper receives $15, a lady usually receives but $8. I know
of one lady in Cleveland, assistant cashier, who received a salary of $300.
An accountant in Boston replies to a circular sent him: "I think the
employment as favorable to bodily health as any sedentary occupation; but
in my particular line of business it is rather trying to the head, as it often
requires close application and intense thought. Those who employ women
here as clerks, undoubtedly pay them by the day, week, month, or year,
where they have permanent situations; but for transient work, by the piece.
Women can always be hired cheaper than men, as it costs them less to live.
I am fifty years old, and have been figuring ever since I was sixteen; still, I
learn something new about accounts every day. A woman would have to
serve a long apprenticeship in accounts and on books, before she could do
much in adjusting accounts. For a first-class bookkeeper, practical
experience in accounts and bookkeeping of business of all kinds are
necessary qualifications. I always prefer the early part of the day for work.
My business is as good at one season of the year as another. I attend to
business as it suits my pleasure—sometimes four or five hours, and
sometimes twelve or fifteen, according to the nature and importance of the
task, and depending oftentimes upon the length of it, and the time when it is
wanted. As a general thing, men and women everywhere in the United

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States keep as far apart in business affairs as possible—it is the custom. The
counting house, office, and place of business are not suitable for a female. I
would state that I charge for making out accounts and adjusting books, as a
general rule here in Boston, $10 per day, and sometimes more—never less.
I have had all prices, from $10 to $50 per day, for one, two, and three
months in succession. Sometimes I take a job by contract, say for $500, or
some other specific sum, as may be agreed upon, according to the nature
and value of the service rendered."

100. Book Merchants.

In many of the new towns springing up in the West, there are openings for
booksellers. Many colleges and seminaries are being built up, thereby
offering a still better market for the sale of school books. It would be well
for those going into the business to ascertain, before doing so, what books
are used in the literary institutions of the place. Some booksellers are so
mean as to sell old-fashioned, out-of-date school books to country
merchants, thereby clearing their own stock, and imposing their unsalable
goods on others. No doubt, many established book merchants would be
willing to trust, to such as they have confidence in, a stock of books to be
sold on commission. When a sufficient sum is acquired, the individual can
purchase a stock of her own. Many dry-goods merchants keep a few books,
but when there is a sufficient sale of books, a store, if expenses are only
cleared for a while, may gradually become a revenue of profit, and is likely
to prove a permanent business, where discretion and industry are used. In
London and Paris, women sell stationery, almanacs, memorandum books,
diaries, and pocket books, on the streets. Public auctions of books are held
frequently in cities and towns. Agents do much to extend a circulation of
books. In large cities, merchants confine their stock of books to two or three
kinds—as those of medicine, law, theology, or school books; but, as a
general thing, miscellaneous books are kept. The trade sales which occur in
Boston once, and in Philadelphia and New York twice a year, are only
attended by booksellers. These sales last but a few days. The prices at
which books sell at these auctions are considered a pretty fair criterion of
their future worth. Miss H. told me of a Miss P., niece of Horace Mann,

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now living in Concord, N. H., who kept a bookstore in Boston, and
imported books to fill orders, but was crushed by other book importers,
because she was a woman. In many towns and cities, women keep small
stores for the sale of stationery, magazines, newspapers, &c. "In large
stationery stores, women might be employed to stamp initials on paper,"
with small hand presses made for the purpose.

101. China Merchants.

This business is peculiarly appropriate to women. Who so well able to
handle china as careful women? Who so well able to judge what will look
well on a table? It comes so entirely within their province, that the mind
readily suggests the appropriateness. In Paris, most, if not all the china
stores are kept by women. A lady china-dealer, on one of the avenues, told
me that she sells considerable at night to working women, who cannot spare
the time to go shopping in the day; also, to ladies living in cross streets
near, who go out walking in the evenings with their husbands, and call to
buy articles in her line. It does not require as many attendants in a china as
in any other kind of store. A girl is more careful and steady, and can dust
china better than a boy; but a boy answers best to take china home. She
sells most about the holidays. It takes time to learn the business well. In an
Eastern city, two ladies stood in their father's store, and so learned the
business. They married brothers, and each opened china stores, which they
attended, while their husbands engaged in other business. They are both
widows now, but have raised and educated their children. A son and son-in-
law of one conduct the business. They employ saleswomen, paying from $5
to $8 a week. They are now in search of two intelligent young women, from
fifteen to eighteen years of age, to grow up to the business. They require a
little more readiness in arithmetic, tact, and general business qualifications
than they can easily meet with. From their experience they judge the
employment to be healthy. A lady in a large china store on Broadway, New
York, receives $5 a week. A lady in another store told me that lifting
crockery causes quite a strain on the back, and should be done by men. A
person gets very dusty who attends china. It requires lifting and dusting,
and now and then must be washed—always when first taken out of the

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crate. Mrs. L. and her husband are English, and have been brought up to the
business. She sells most about Christmas. She is on her feet all the time. To
learn the names of all the articles sold in a large store, and their prices, and
to exercise care in handling, requires patience. A china merchant writes:
"Women are generally paid less than men. There is a difference of from $10
to $40 per month in favor of men, because (with few exceptions) women
are not so well qualified to do business as men. It would take from six to
eight months to learn to sell china. A clear head, common sense, and
activity are the qualifications needed. Women are not more likely to be
thrown out of employment than men, if as well qualified." A lady told me,
the china is a slow business and seldom pays more than twenty-five per
cent., but is a sure business for the cheaper kind of goods. The profit is not
so much as for fancy articles of ladies' wear; but less is lost from the change
of style. China merchants, she thought, seldom employ women; why, she
could not tell. Mr. H., who employs a girl, paid her $1.50 a week and board
the first year, then raised her wages to $7 a month. He thinks if more girls
would qualify themselves for china stores they would be likely to find
employment. A girl should commence young, but should know how to read
and write, on account of taking orders. He thinks it best to get homely girls,
rather advanced in age, to attend store, because the young and handsome
ones will get married. He prefers girls, because they are more quiet and
steady. Small articles of china he sends the girl home with; heavy articles he
takes himself. A lady, whose ware was partly out of doors and partly in the
house, said she had dusted it at least a dozen times through the day, and
then it was covered with dust. Her breakage is considerable. She sells most
about Christmas. Another china dealer told me, she sells most in spring,
when people go to housekeeping. E. L., in the Five Points, sells most in
summer, because her patrons are poor people, and in summer the men have
most work, and their expenses are lighter—consequently the women have
more money. Her stand is a good one, but she does not much more than
make a living. The business requires some experience in buying and selling.
Ladies sometimes come into the store to purchase articles they would not
like to ask a man for. A girl keeping a china stand told me she sells most in
spring and fall. She pays $3 a month for ground rent, but owns the shelter.
She locks it at night, and it is perfectly secure, for her lock is different from
all others. It does not take long to learn to sell common ware. She expects to

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sell all winter at her stand, and has to be on her feet all the time. She sells
on an average from $2 to $3 worth a day.

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102. Clothiers.

In London there are shops confined to the sale of nautical clothes, and some
to the sale of theatrical attire. B.'s sewers (New York) earn from $2 to $10
per week—piece work, of course. Most of it is done by machine.
Meritorious girls need never be out of work, said Mr. B.; yet he can always
get plenty of hands. He has much of his work done in New Jersey. Some
men make a business of taking it from establishments, and hire women all
through the country to do it. There are two kinds of tailoring—custom and
slop work. The last is subdivided into the cheap slop work and that of the
best quality, and there are two kinds of establishments for this common
work—that which is not better done perhaps than the other, but for which a
better price is paid and received, and done by houses of standing and
reputation. The other is done by extortionists, Jews and Germans, and
patronized by their own class. As tailoring is done now, it does not require a
regular apprenticeship as in bygone years, particularly for those who work
by machine. I met a girl on the steps, seeking for work, who told me she
makes $4 a week as operator, when she can get steady work. One of the
proprietors of L. & B.'s clothing establishment told me some of their
workmen earn from $8 to $10 a week, working by the piece. Much of their
work is for California. They employ hands most of the year, as they work
both for the home and foreign market. The great trouble is that the majority
of tailoresses are inefficient. Some are widows, striving to support their
children. Some have dissipated husbands, and are subject to constant
interruption. Some have not the time to properly learn the trade, and,
consequently, such workers cannot have that labor which pays best,
however much they need it. The character of work done by applicants is
judged of by turning to the book of their former employer, and seeing what
prices were paid. In hard times, like these, employers try to retain those that
are dependent on their labor for their bread. The foreman said, in good
times, there is work enough for all the tailoresses in New York. They pay
good operators $5 a week—a day of ten hours. All the summer work is done
by machines. The pressing and basting is done by men. The foreman of the
S. Brothers' establishment says the best place for tailoresses is in the West,

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where there are openings, and they can make money. The only trouble is,
the poor have not money to go West. All their work is done by machines,
and all given out. They do not give work more than six months in the year,
and that barely keeps the girls while they are at work. P. & C. have their
machines worked by hot condensed air. The operators receive from $4.50 to
$6. Basters are only small girls, and earn from $2 to $3 a week. B. & Co.,
clothiers, give work out, and, of course, pay by the piece. Their most busy
times are from October to March, and from April to September. They do
Southern work. Some of the workers only earn $2.50 if they are slow, even
if they are industrious and constantly at work. Some of their best hands can
earn $6 a week, but are likely to be at least two months out of employment.
The prospect for tailoresses is poor. I have heard that some good hands are
wanted in Chicago. A great deal of clothing is sold there to people from the
surrounding country and towns. B. does not require any deposit, but a girl
must show her book from her other employers. They have thousands of
applications for work. The reason more clothing is not made up out of the
city is the difficulty in procuring such tailors' trimmings as they need just at
the time they are wanted. Most clothing establishments keep a list of those
that do not return work taken out, and send them to each other. On persons
applying to the foremen, he turns to his book to see if the names are among
the delinquents. He thinks girls in service are more certain of making a
living, for they are paid from $1 to $2 a week for their work, and have their
board, which would be from $1 to $3 a week, and a competent servant need
not be out of employment; while slop work is very uncertain, and
everything that is made goes for board and clothes. Many of these shop
girls sleep half a dozen in a garret, on straw beds, without sufficient
covering. Many might go to the country and the West and get employment,
but they have not the means; and, if they had the means to go, might not
have enough to come back, if they found it necessary. F. D. & Co.,
clothiers. Their girls earn from $3 to $6 per week, paid by the piece, and
done at home. They give most of their work to men who have machines and
employ operatives. The prospect for this kind of work is poor. Not more
than two thirds of the hands in the city, in this department of labor, will be
retained. When business is good they are able to keep their hands employed
all the year, except for a few weeks when changing from thin to thick work,
and vice versa. They sometimes give a girl work to do as a sample. A

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woman told me of three girls occupying the room above her, that have a
sewing machine. Two baste and finish off, and one operates. They work day
and night, and one she knows is even now earning $8 a week. They make
flannel shirts, receiving 75 cents a dozen, without putting in the sleeves,
working the button holes, or putting on the buttons. I saw a girl that
receives 87 cents a dozen for making flannel shirts. We have seen it stated
that a persons possessed of machines, who make up large quantities of
clothing at very low prices, are enabled, by the speed at which they can
work the machines, to produce sufficient to remunerate all the parties
employed, at an average of $4 a week." One clothier in Albany, New York,
pays $3 a week to his hands working eleven hours a a day. He furnishes
work steadily through the fall, and pays men better wages, because they can
do more work. The proprietor of a mammoth establishment in New York,
D., writes: "We employ women in making pants, vests, shirts, and summer
coats, both by the week and by the piece. When the sewers take work out, it
is by the piece; but when the work is done in the shop, it is paid for by the
week. The wages by the week range from $3 to $7. Women thoroughly
educated in the trade can make about $6 per week, men about $9—their
work is heavier. The number of branches in this trade, and the time of
preparation for each, varies. We never receive learners. As the articles are of
general use, good hands usually find employment. The work is brisk from
November till March 1st, and from May till September 1st. The time of
work could be shortened, but at the expense of the laborers' wages. In a city
like ours, there is always a full supply of hands. About two thirds of our
women are American. Women could not be employed to sell clothing to
men." This firm employed, in February, 1860, five hundred hands in the
shop, and eight hundred outside. In B. Brothers' establishment, "indoor
work is paid by the week. An agent pays for the outdoor work by the piece.
Those in the house average $5 per week. Men do heavier work and receive
$7. Women make vests and pantaloons; men, coats. They work in the same
room. The men do the pressing." (I expect it is a rule that they shall not
speak to each other, for not one word did I hear any of them speak in the
half hour I spent in the room.) "It requires about six months to learn the
business. They do not take learners. An ability to sew well, and neatness
with the work, are necessary. They sell most when the country is in a
peaceful and prosperous condition. They sell most clothing to Western

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customers about the 1st of January, and to city retail stores about the 1st of
February. They work ten hours a day. There is a surplus of hands in New
York. They employ seventy in the house, and between 2,000 and 3,000
outside. The number of Americans is about 20 per cent." Great injustice is
done by women in the country, in comfortable circumstances, who do the
work at a very low price, merely to obtain pocket money. An English tailor
in New York hires girls for making pants and coats. He pays one $4, one
$3.50, and another $3, and they work from 7 A. M. to 7 P. M. There is no
difference in the prices paid, except when the man's work is heavier. Spring
and fall are the best seasons for work. Men can press better, because they
have more strength; but women can stitch as well, if they have the
experience. He kept one operator at $6 a week in busy times, and $3 in
slack times, and another at $5 the year round. Some of the poor tailors in
New York rent a room, occupy a spot themselves, and rent out the rest of
the room to others at the same kind of work, charging fifty cents for seat
room for a man and a girl to assist him; thirty-seven cents for a man alone.
It is not easy to get good hand tailoresses, for most are employed on
machines. One firm, that employ about five hundred hands, write they pay
from $3 to $5 per week of ten hours a day, and that it requires two years to
learn the trade. S. & D., manufacturers and venders of boys' clothing, write:
"Their work is done by the piece, so much a garment, and wages run from
$2 to $6 a week, of ten hours a day—of course, depending on the skill and
hours of the worker. The relative wages between men and women are, as
sewers, say for men, one third more; that is, as four for the women and six
for the men. The business of a tailoress is numbered among the regular
trades for women, and requires somewhat more than the average trade time,
say one year. They excel as vest makers—a branch almost exclusively
confined to them. There is no uniform usage in regard to pay. The requisites
are good eyesight, average strength, and if taste be superadded, the better.
Winter is the best season for those who work for wholesale venders.
Women are most apt to be out of employment in summer. The demand is, at
present, less than the supply. There is a surplus of vest makers, and a
deficiency, if anywhere, in children's suit making. It is an occupation less
suited to women than trades that require more nicety of touch and eye, such
as designing or wood engraving. The majority of tailoresses in New York
city are German and Irish." A firm engaged in the merchant tailoring and

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ready-made clothing business write: "The occupation is unhealthy, because
the workers are constantly sitting. They earn from $2 to $4.50 per week, ten
hours a day. We pay men better, because they are stronger and more
capable, and have more experience. Men receive from $9 to $12. It requires
four years for men to learn the business, and two years for women to learn
it so as to earn $4 per week. The qualifications needed are common sense,
good taste, and strong eyes. From March to January is the busy season; but
good hands have work all the year." B. O. & S. "give their work out. Their
trade is Southern. Their spring work begins 1st October, and continues until
the last of March; and fall work begins in May, and lasts until September.
They do not require a deposit, but a recommendation from the last
employer, and give some work to applicants to do as a sample. Some is
done by hand, some by machinery, Wages run from $3 up. Much of their
work is done by Germans, whose wives assist them. It is sometimes
difficult for them to get good hands. The foreman dismissed the Jews he
found at work when he went there, for he thinks they are not reliable. Some
get work out, but intrust it to others to do, and so it is poorly done. The
foreman said many women spend a day or two out of every week running
from shop to shop to get work. He has never lost anything by girls not
returning goods. If they should keep them, they would soon be known at the
different establishments, and have no place to go for work." In Maine, New
Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York,
Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, District of Columbia, and
Ohio, during the year ending June 1st, 1860, 36,155 males and 52,515
females were employed in making clothing.

103. Curiosity Dealers.

In large cities, a few persons may find employment in this way. To the
business of selling coins, medals, buckles, old-time jewelry, &c., is usually
added the sale of shells and foreign birds. The same persons might engage
in the sale of stuffed birds and animals, marine plants, minerals, and other
such articles as are suitable for placing in a museum. Many women on the
streets of London sell coins, medals, &c.

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104. Druggists and Druggists' Clerks.

Some knowledge of medicines and their nature is requisite to an attendant
in a drug store. The business is light, and, to some, a pleasant one. In a large
drug store, one of the clerks might be a young man, to attend to night
prescriptions. The day business could easily be carried on by ladies, if they
were qualified. Many articles sold by druggists require a chemical or
mechanical combination. Schools for giving instruction in the art of
preparing medicines are established in New York and Philadelphia. If
enough ladies would unite to form a class, we have no doubt that separate
instruction would be given them by the professors of pharmacy. We hope
these schools will tend to prevent abuses in the prosecution of the drug
business, as those persons will be most patronized who are known as
graduates of these schools. Dyestuffs, paint, hair oils, &c., are sold by most
druggists, besides the materials directly used in their business. The
apothecary's business is more confined to the mixing and putting up of
medicines, as prescribed by physicians. Girls that put up drugs are paid by
the package, and earn from $2 to $5 per week. Most country physicians
prepare and sell their own medicines. Censors in Great Britain visit the
stores of druggists, and are required by law to destroy any medicines they
consider not fit for use. In France the regulations are equally strict. In some
parts of France and Germany, sisters of charity are employed to compound
medicines, and some to administer them. Mrs. Jameson, in her
"Communion of Labor," describes her visits to several hospitals in Europe,
in charge of sisters of charity, where some of their number were employed
to fill prescriptions, both homœopathic and allopathic. I find that in most
Roman Catholic institutions in this country, some sisters are set apart to
perform the duties of druggists. In 1776, when Howard visited Lyons, he
found "there were sisters who made up, as well as administered, all the
medicines prescribed, for which purpose there were a laboratory and
apothecary's shop, the neatest and most elegantly fitted up that can be
conceived." Lord Brougham, in a speech at York, about two years ago, after
eulogizing the Protestant sisters of charity as nurses, said: "They are the
persons who make up, who distribute, who administer all the medicines;
they are, as I can answer from my own knowledge practically in the matter,
as well acquainted with the chemical preparations as the professional men

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themselves." In the preparation of fine chemicals in laboratories, women are
sometimes employed. A druggist told me that a person in his business need
never be idle. When not otherwise employed, he can be making tinctures,
compounds, &c. It requires four or five years to become a competent
druggist. The business is one on which hang the lives of its patrons. Some
druggists put up their goods very neatly, and make them look beautiful; but
often sacrifice, to do so, their medicinal properties. The standard of
druggists is higher in Philadelphia than New York. In Philadelphia, many
young men receive nothing for their services, while learning; but in New
York, boys over fifteen are generally paid $100 the first year, and more
afterward. Many of the best druggists will not make or sell patent
medicines. In some new parts of the Western country, druggists unite their
calling with something else; and are often but a poor excuse for druggists,
deriving their profits mostly from nostrums. One in the business needs a
retentive memory. In the census of Great Britain, three hundred and ten
females are returned as druggists. Dr. Brandreth has his pills made at Sing
Sing. He employs twelve females, and pays an average of $5 per week to
each one. The widow of a deceased druggist and chemist told me that the
receipts left by her husband she could easily dispose of for a thousand
dollars. We have seen it stated that the average hours per day of a drug clerk
are thirteen, and his wages $9. The neatness of women, their delicacy and
attention to details, qualify them admirably for the drug business. At the
Woman's Infirmary, New York, the apothecary's department is entirely in
the hands of ladies. At St. Luke's, a lady of education and refinement (a
sister of the Order of the Holy Communion) gives her services to the
measuring out and dispensing of medicines. At Smith's homœopathic
pharmacy, the lady in attendance told me nearly the whole in their
department of business is in the hands of females. They employ men, to
press the plants and make tinctures; but the distilling of water and alcohol,
the pulverizing, triturating and diluting, cleaning vials, corking, labelling,
and stamping, are done by women. It requires neatness, exactness, and
quickness, to succeed in putting up medicines. The girls, while at work,
wear clothes that will not suffer from their labor, which is not the cleanest
in the world. The proprietor of the establishment wrote me: "We employ six
ladies, and prefer them to men, as their work is neater. We pay them from
$3 to $6 per week, and they work from nine to ten hours. There is no

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difference in the seasons, as regards our employment. We pay women from
the first; and they may learn the part done by them in from three to six
months. As their work is essentially different from men's, we cannot make a
comparison in the prices paid." At another homœopathic pharmacy, I was
told they employ a few girls to wash bottles, to put on labels, and place
them in the boxes. They are paid from $3 to $3.50 a week. At a wholesale
drug store, one of the proprietors told me they "employ a number of
women, and pay by the piece, the workers earning from $3.50 to $6 per
week. Different kinds of work have different prices. They pay from the first.
Those who put up perfumery earn most. The greater part of the duties in a
drug store can be performed by well qualified ladies as efficiently as by
men." So few ladies are employed in that way, that they might feel timid
about assuming the responsibilities of a drug store in a city. Yet, after they
had spent two or three years in a store of others, where they were properly
instructed, why need they feel any more responsibility in a drug store of
their own? I was told that no drug broker and no retail druggist employs
women. When employed, it is by those in the wholesale business. I called
on a German widow keeping a retail drug store, but who employed a young
man to attend the store. She regrets that she did not learn to compound of
her husband. She can sell simple medicines, and buys all her own
medicines. She had heard of one lady druggist, in Switzerland, that
performed all the duties of a druggist, and one in Germany; but it is not
common to see women in the business there. H. & R., druggists, employ
women to put up patent medicines, and pay $4 or $5 per week. Mr. M.,
maker of patent medicines, employs some girls all the time. When busy,
they pay from $6 to $8 a week, but at other times $3. It requires some
experience to put up pills. The pills are mixed, rolled, and cut by men, as it
is heavy work when done extensively. Their girls get $2.50 the first week of
their work, and their wages are increased in proportion to their skill and
abilities. Messrs. K. & K., wholesale druggists, employ a woman to put up
Seidlitz powders, furnishing all the materials, and paying by the quantity.
They pay her about $250 a year, but suppose she is assisted by some of her
sisters at home. Mr. H. employs a woman to put up Seidlitz powders, paid
for by the gross. A smart woman can earn from $1.25 to $1.50 a day. A
measure is used, containing the right quantity for filling the papers. A house
that makes extract of ginger, in Philadelphia, formerly employed women to

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put it up; but they now employ men and boys in preference, because of the
work they can do at intervals, that women cannot do. I called at Mrs. S.'s
drug store. The youth that stood behind the counter said drug stores kept by
ladies, or where they are employed to dispense, would not be patronized by
physicians. He said, if any trouble should occur, from want of knowledge or
skill in putting up medicines, and the case was brought into court, the man
that employed female dispensers would be punished. Many persons, he
says, come to druggists for medical and surgical advice, that could not, and
would not think of consulting a lady, even if she were competent to give
advice. It would be as unsuitable as for women to shave men, as they do in
Germany. I sent for the lady, though the clerk urged that she had a sick
child, and could not leave it. I told her the object of my call. She very
kindly talked with me, and gave me information, of which I will give a
synopsis. She boarded for several years after she was married, and as she
had nothing to occupy her time, she spent much of it in the drug store with
her husband. Seven years ago he died, and she, by the advice of friends,
continued the store. She has employed a young man only part of the time.
She says it involves great responsibility, but she is, and feels just as
responsible as a man, and would be held so in court; but is not any more
liable to indictment, or prosecution, than a man. It is something that
requires exactness. It will not do to trust entirely to the memory. She
generally refers to the book for directions. A youth of good abilities can, in
from six months to one year, put up prescriptions, and a boy, when taken
into a drug store, is paid from $1.50 to $2 a week for six months. A druggist
of New York writes: "There is but one college of pharmacy in the city of
New York, where instruction would be given equally to ladies, if they
desired it; although, as yet, none have ever presented themselves. Ladies
have never been employed, to my knowledge, as druggists' clerks in this
city, or elsewhere in the United States, nor, as I am of opinion, in Europe. In
one instance, it was attempted in Philadelphia a few years since, by a
leading druggist, with a view of economy, I believe; and although he
professed to have engaged the ladies merely as saleswomen in the fancy
goods department, they nevertheless were allowed to dispense medicines. It
so happened that one of these made a mistake, in giving the wrong
medicine, which resulted in the death of the patient, a lady of wealth and
wide acquaintance, and the consequence was the ruin and destruction of the

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whole business of the druggist. This put an end to the experiment in
Philadelphia." (This we extremely regret, but know that such accidents have
occurred from the incompetency and carelessness of some young men and
boys, with less disastrous results to the proprietor.) "The business," the
writer adds, "is, in some respects, quite unsuited to females. It requires
much real manual labor, its hours are long, and its constant, close
confinement wears upon the strongest constitutions. I have myself lost my
health at it, and I know of numerous others who have done the same." A
lady physician writes: "I do not know whether women are anywhere
employed as druggists' clerks. They are not either in France or England,
where special education and license are required. I am not aware of any
druggist here who would take a pupil, but I have no doubt one could be
found."

105. Keepers of Fancy Stores.

A fancy store pays well when a good connection is established, but it takes
time for that. Business is moving up street in New York, and of course
fancy stores with it. Some unite millinery with the sale of fancy goods. The
prices paid to those who stand in such stores, vary greatly. They are given
under the head of Saleswomen.

106. Gentlemen's Furnishing Stores.

A great many women are employed in this business, and many more might
be. The making of gentlemen's robes furnishes in itself quite a business in
cities; also the making of cravats, collars, hemming handkerchiefs, and odd
work to be done. Mrs. M. told me she has a girl that assists in the house,
and stays in the store when not so occupied, and receives for her services $6
a month and her board. Madame P. pays $3 to each of her operators (ten
hours a day), and to one superior operator $4. She pays $3.50 a week to a
button-hole maker. That is made a separate branch of sewing. Fourteen is
the usual number of button holes in a shirt, and some employers pay one
cent apiece; some, one and a half; and for large ones, in which studs or
sleeve buttons are worn, two cents apiece. Some men are very particular

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about the make and fit of their shirts. Madame P. gets $2.50 a dozen for
shirts from a store down street, and $4.50 for shirts from a store up street.
Ordered work pays best. Her great trouble is that she does not get constant
employment. For awhile she sunk in her business from $4 to $5 a week. Mr.
P. says, whenever business is dull in New York city, it is, of course,
wherever work is done to supply the city. He takes learners in busy times.
Mr. D., who employs 2,000 hands in his factory at New Haven, has
discharged them all; also Mr. H., who employs 1,000; and Messrs. M. & H.,
who employ as many. He thinks, when business revives, there will be work
enough for all in this line, and even more. Shirts are such an essential part
of a man's wardrobe, that as long as men exist, shirts must be made. With
the many improvements in sewing machines, Mr. P. has shirts, when cut
out, given to the operator, and turned from the machine complete, with the
exception of buttons and button holes. No basters are employed. All the
felling is done by a feller, and all the hemming by a hemmer. He furnishes
his operators with machines. He employs men to cut, because they do it
faster than women. They cut with a knife twenty-four thicknesses of cloth.
All factories furnish machines and needles. Troy is the great place for
making shirt collars. The girls are paid by the piece in these factories, and
the employers will not permit them to work more than eight hours a day, as
they do not wish them to lose their health. A girl is not retained in these
collar factories that cannot earn $7 a week—eight hours a day. The
machines are moved by steam.

107. Furniture Sellers.

A French woman that keeps a new furniture store told me that her husband
does most of the work, employing some men to help him. She only attends
store in his absence. The lifting, repairing, and varnishing, she thought
could not be done by women. Called in the store of a woman—a German
Jew. Her husband is away most of the time. She has furniture made to fill
orders, and, of course, employs several men to make the furniture. I think
she sells on credit. I think women are better adapted to the keeping of
house-furnishing than of house-furniture stores. I was told in a furniture
store by a saleswoman, that she takes entire charge of the store, cuts and

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gives out damask for making furniture, orders the men, and keeps the
books; for which she has a comfortable home with her employer, a widow
lady, and $5 a week. She says it requires one to be amiable and obliging, to
possess health and energy, and to be a good judge of human nature, to
succeed in business; but thinks good conduct and sobriety will insure
success in almost anything. The spring she finds best for selling furniture.
Small profits and quick sales is her motto. She never credits. She regulates
her prices according to circumstances, allowing herself what she considers a
fair profit, and yet doing justice to the buyer. She goes into the store at
seven in the morning, and remains until ten at night. Only a strong, well-
built woman, can move furniture. A lady that keeps a furniture store told me
she sold a great deal before the holidays, but will not sell much again until
spring. On making inquiry of a lady that keeps a furniture store, about the
business, she uttered these practical remarks: "Never credit in the furniture
business, or your money and furniture are both gone. You may succeed, if
you have an honest, reliable man to attend to the business for you. It is a
money-paying business. You should have a man that can attend auction, and
buy furniture, and repair and varnish it. Besides, you need a carman, to lift
and move furniture in the store, and carry it home." We would state that a
woman can just as well attend the sales of house furniture in New York, at
residences, as men, and a carman can at any time be hired to move
furniture.

108. Grocers.

The retail grocery business is one that many women can and do carry on. It
is very common to see the wives of grocers in their stores. The store is
generally connected with or beneath their dwelling—so that it is very
convenient for the man, and the woman is saved from exposure to the
weather, passing back and forth from the dwelling to the store. The business
is light and generally profitable. Much depends upon selecting a stand. A
good stand is not likely to be idle long. The fall, I was told, was a bad
season for a retail grocery in New York. Many small groceries in New York
are owned by men, whose wives attend the stores while they are at work. I
saw a nice little grocer, whose husband is a tailor, and who works at his

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trade in a room back of the grocery. This seemed to be reversing the general
order of things. The husbands of some grocer women keep stalls in the
markets, and furnish the groceries of their wives with vegetables. I called in
a neat grocery store and bought some apples. The lady in attendance says
she never sells liquor, but all the groceries around there do. She goes to
market at four in the morning to buy potatoes and apples for her grocery.
The baker leaves her bread, and she goes every evening to a baker's and
buys cakes. Bundles of kindling wood are sent her from the wood yard, and
the milkman leaves her milk. She goes to Washington market for her meat,
and to Vesey street for her tea. So she manages. She said, not a cent in the
store had been gained dishonestly. A grocer woman told me that peddlers
interfere seriously with her business. Besides, the baker next door had gone
to selling milk and butter, from which she has always derived most profit.
She has least sale after families have laid in their groceries in the fall. Rich
people and those in moderate circumstances generally purchase their
groceries in large quantities, it being more convenient and economical to do
so; hence we find but few groceries in the best portions of a city. Of course
a grocer woman must be much on her feet. Most groceries are open until ten
o'clock at night. Mrs. A. says it is impossible for grocer women to make
more than a living now, paying $6 and $7 a week for rent, and sometimes
not clearing more than $3 a week. She opens at five in the morning, and
closes at nine at night. She makes most in summer, because then she does
not have to burn fuel, and can do with less candle light. What lifting is
necessary, her son does when he comes to see her. There are too many small
groceries in New York for any to thrive. I have been told that in the majority
(even when attended by women) liquor is sold. What a crime, to make
ferocious beasts of those who are stupid enough to buy ardent spirits!

109. Junk Dealers.

Junkmen go about New York with small wagons, across which is a rod.
Over the rod are strung several cowbells of different sizes, and from it fly a
number of various-colored strips. Junkmen are not the same as the rag
gatherers, or dealers, but a blending of the two, as they buy on a very small
scale, and sell again. Part of their rags they sell to shoddy manufacturers.

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A. B., a female junk-dealer, keeps a shop, where she buys and sells old
metals and rags. The first she sells to a man who comes to the door and
buys them; the others she sells at a store where rags are bought for making
paper. She has no system in buying and selling—buying at the lowest prices
she can, and selling at the highest. Another woman told me she buys white
rags at three and a half cents per pound, and sells at four. She pays so much
a pound for old metals, and sells at an advance. Other articles, as bottles,
glass, bones, cold victuals, and grease, are disposed of by junkwomen. The
damaged cotton picked up by old women is sold to junk dealers.

110. Music Sellers.

Mr. W. does not know of any ladies engaged in selling sheet music, but
thinks there may be some in small towns. He thinks it would be a very
suitable employment for them. I called in a music store, B—, where a lady
was in attendance, and, in the course of conversation, learned she was the
wife of the proprietor. According to her report, "it is an arduous business,
and one that requires brains and musical talent. People will seldom
purchase a piece of music until they hear it, and she must try the pianos
before a person will purchase or hire. The business requires great patience.
She and her husband keep their store open until ten o'clock at night. They
do not sell so much when the weather is bad, nor in summer, when the
people are out of the city. A lady so employed must be able to keep
accounts, and, when she sells, must require good security, if she does not
sell for cash. She must also be able to distinguish bad from good money."
She says, "keepers of music stores will not employ women, however great
their capabilities," but no reason could I obtain for it. I think it is something,
where an opening offers, that would pay a woman well. I called at another
music store in the same city, kept by a lady. She said: "She and her sister
would not keep a music store, if they had not brothers in the business, for
she did not consider it any more appropriate for a lady to keep pianos to sell
than to keep a cabinet wareroom. The pianos sometimes need to be repaired
and tuned, and no one can attend to that without knowing how a piano is
constructed. (?) The mere selling of sheet music, she thought, might do well
enough, but selling books would be better. She says it would not do well for

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a woman to tune pianos, as it requires considerable practice to make one
competent." Why might not women acquire that practice? Her selfishness
and fear of competition were very evident. It is desirable for a music seller
to understand Italian, French, and German, as many of the songs used in our
country are in those languages. Many pieces of music have two or three
titles. It requires some time to learn to rightly perform the duties of a music
seller. The selling of sheet music and the selling of pianos are separate
branches, and a person in one may be totally ignorant of the other. The
wholesale and retail departments are entirely distinct in large
establishments. Clerks that attend in the piano department are expected to
be able to play. A lady is now employed in a large piano store in New York
to try the instruments for purchasers. A lady in New York stays in the store
when her brother, Mr. D., is absent. He paid a boy $1.50 a week for some
months while learning, then more. A person of ability could learn the
business in six months' time, or less. Music is always arranged
alphabetically on the shelves. A boy should be kept to climb the ladder. An
extensive music seller in Boston writes: "In our direct employ is only one
female—a cashier. Repeated losses of money, and cash continually over or
above, induced us four years ago to adopt the plan of employing a female to
receive the proceeds of sales. It has saved us a great deal of money, and
lessened the temptation to the young men in the store. We would gladly
employ more women, but the height of our shelves, and the unsuitableness
of female apparel, prevent." Another music seller writes me: "Women are
employed in our business, in Germany and France, and are there paid at the
same rate as men. We do not employ ladies in our store, because those of
their own sex will not buy from them."

111. Sellers of Artists' Materials.

The sale of paintings, engravings, and artists' materials, form of themselves
a branch of business in large cities. I know of such a store in Philadelphia,
kept by a lady. It must be a light and pleasant employment. In London there
are seventy-nine print sellers.

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112. Sellers of Seeds, Roots, and Herbs.

In agricultural and horticultural communities, there is always a demand for
roots and seeds. A large number of seeds are raised and put in papers for
sale by the Shakers. In stores for the sale of roots and seeds, growing plants
in jars might be offered for sale, and evergreens, with their roots in dirt,
enveloped by linen or sacking. Orders might be given, and filled, for forest
and fruit trees. Bouquets, also, might be kept for sale. A man in New York
hires a room about Christmas, and devotes himself exclusively to the sale of
evergreens for Christmas trees. As field seeds are usually sold by the
measure, and not put up in papers, women have no employment in that line.
The proprietor of an agricultural warehouse and seed store writes: "Our
seed and grain are put up by men and boys in the winter months. It is work
that might be done by women." A lady botanic druggist told me, "there are
families in the West that make a comfortable support by gathering herbs;
but even the smallest children assist." Those plants that bear flowers she has
gathered when they begin to bloom. Those engaged in gathering commence
early in life, and gather those growing in their yards and the fields of the
neighborhood. Another seller of botanic medicine says there are spring and
fall herbs, and, of course, they must be gathered in their seasons. She has a
man and his wife gathering herbs, who support their family of five children
by it, and two girls of another family, who earn a livelihood by it. Ladies in
the occupation of root, seed, and flower selling, would do well to keep
garden tools for sale.

113. Sellers of Small Wares.

In England, the word "haberdasher" is applied to those who engage in the
sale of cord, tape, pins, and such articles. In America there is no
synonymous word—so we use the expression heading this article, which we
have seen occasionally employed in the same way. The number of women
in this business is legion. With many it is a suitable and successful
employment. Those whose means will not permit them to engage in any
more extensive business—who have a room well located in town, and not
too much competition—can, with a small capital, commence a safe and

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light business. It requires but little effort, and, with enough customers, will
well repay time and capital. Many a poor woman, unable to purchase the
articles required, has obtained them to sell on commission, and, by industry
and economy, earned sufficient, in the course of time, to purchase a stock of
her own. I called on a lady that keeps a variety store. She sells gloves,
handkerchiefs, suspenders, and such articles to gentlemen, and tape,
buttons, &c., to ladies. She would rather sell to gentlemen. She has been
keeping store thirty-five years. Her store is near the river, and she sells
much to people coming from the ferry and off the boats. She thinks in the
South and West there would be many good openings for such stores. Spring
and fall, and during the holidays, are her best times for selling. I called in a
small store: I was told by the lady that she did not much more than make a
living. She depends much on her friends and acquaintances for custom. As
they increase in number, which they do from year to year, her custom
increases. She finds herself very closely confined at home by the business.
She does not regulate her profits entirely by the value of the articles, for
cheap goods sell best where she is, and she puts on a large profit.

114. Sellers of Snuff, Tobacco, and Cigars.

A lady, keeping a cigar store, said she makes only one third profit on her
sales. Most people make one half, which, she says, is the usual profit on all
goods. Snuff gives her the headache, when dealing it out, but she thinks she
may get accustomed to it. She sells most from six o'clock in the morning
until nine or ten; and then again in the evening. To know what manufactures
of tobacco, snuff, and cigars are most popular, is important. Having
acquaintances assists much, and they are the first patrons to one
commencing business. A cigar store generally pays well in large cities, and,
if well located, is sure to succeed. Fall and winter are the best seasons for
selling cigars; in very warm weather no one cares to smoke.

115. Saleswomen.

Women are quite as capable by nature to sell dry goods as men, but are not
trained so thoroughly, nor from so early an age. Suavity of manner and

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perfect control of temper are very desirable qualifications for a clerk. Care,
judgment, and taste are requisite for success. A flow of speech and ability to
show goods to advantage are also desirable. Some people urge that if
females are employed as attendants in stores, they will be exposed to
dangerous and demoralizing influences, and something is said about the
corruption of female shopkeepers in Paris, by way of warning. Now, it so
happens that the corruption spoken of does not exist among the store
attendants in Paris, but among sempstresses. Saleswomen and bookkeepers
there enjoy as a class a good reputation, but the same cannot be said of
sempstresses. Sempstresses, we know from the rates paid them, and the
accounts of travellers, cannot make enough to support themselves; but
shopkeepers can. "One fifth of all the female criminals in Paris are
sempstresses," says Madame Mallet. Some employers complain that women
are too sociably inclined, too much disposed to chat, where several are
employed in the same establishment. It may be true; but are they more so
than men of the same age? The languid appearance of saleswomen, we
think, arises from their being on their feet so constantly. It is injurious to a
woman; and employers should allow them to be seated, when not waiting
on customers. The number of skirts they must wear, and the weight of hoop
skirts, does much to bring this about. The kind of ladies that saleswomen
mostly see in first-class stores is calculated to improve and refine their
manners, and give them a command of language. Besides, it renders them
more particular in their attire. They want to dress and look well. Those
acquainted with the art, say there are at least a hundred ways of putting up
new goods. Some Jews hire a girl to stay in their store, and require her to
sew, make hoop skirts, &c., when not waiting on customers. In the United
States, women are employed in a variety of stores: dry goods, lace, and
fancy stores are the most common. In Philadelphia they attend in nearly all
the largest stores—Levy's, Sharpless's, and Evans's; besides, several
hundred earn a subsistence as saleswomen in smaller stores. Close
observation and much experience are needed to fulfil the duties, but the
natural quickness of most women gives them a tact seldom equalled by
men. The variety afforded by the occupation is pleasing, and the labors are
light. The handling of gloves, tape, ribbon, &c., is undoubtedly best suited
to the finer and smaller hands of women. The reason there are so many
young men performing the duties of clerks and salesmen, is, that they are

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lazy, and do not want to perform hard work. Another reason is that the
majority want to dress well and make a good appearance, but have no
capital. The price paid for a girl to attend store would depend on the size,
location, and kind of store, how much they sell, and the abilities of the girl.
Lady clerks usually receive from $3 to $8 per week. The best seldom
receive more than $6; while men receive from $6 to $12. The ladies are
obliged to dress well, and to do so must retrench in other expenses, living in
crowded attics or damp cellars, or on unwholesome food. Mr. M.,
Philadelphia, pays his girls from $3 to $6 per week, it depending altogether
on their qualifications. In Bangor and Belfast, Maine, most of those who
attend stores are women. They have also been much employed in Buffalo,
New York, during the last few years. It is a regulation of some of the stores
in New York and Philadelphia, that a salesman or woman shall not sit down
to rest; and in some, if they do, they are fined. If there is nothing to do, they
must take down the boxes and pull out the articles, then arrange them
carefully in the boxes, as if they were closely occupied, to give the
impression that much business is transacted in the establishment. In fancy
stores on the avenues, New York, girls get from $2.50 to $4 a week. The
stores are mostly open from 7 A. M. to 10 P. M. In some localities, most
goods are sold in the evening. At a small dry-goods store, where I called to
make a purchase, the lady told me she used to employ a girl, paying her $3
a week, without board. She was in the store from 7 A. M. till 9.30 P. M. A
girl in a store on Sixth avenue told me, she and her companions get from $2
to $5 a week. They are there at eight in the morning, and remain until ten at
night, and on Saturday until eleven or twelve. They are not allowed to sit
down. A girl in a lace and embroidery store on Sixth avenue, New York,
told me that girls get in such stores from $3.50 to $10, but they must make
up laces when not waiting on customers. Some receive a percentage.
Women are not paid as well as men, even in such stores. Time of learning
depends on the individual. They are seldom paid anything for a few weeks.
They have most to do in spring and fall; are in the store from 8 A. M. to 9 or
10 P. M. A lady told me she used to get $7 a week in a fancy store. At M.'s
dry-goods store, New York, the superintendent told me they do not pay
learners for one month. They have girls who have been in the store but a
few weeks, that can do as well as those who have been in it for years. Some
again are stupid, and they will not retain such. When girls are qualified,

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they pay from $1 to $10 a week. They prefer having ladies in the store,
thinking they know best a lady's wants. They often have occasion to change
—some get broken down and go away, some get tired, some get
discouraged, some cannot be on their feet so long, some cannot please
customers, some are not satisfactory to employers, &c.; so, many changes
take place. The ladies all looked to be Americans. They are allowed to sit
when there is nothing to do, and no customers in; which, I suspect, is rarely,
if ever the case. I have been told the openings for saleswomen are better
farther East than in New York. A lady told me she used to get $1 a day in
R.'s store on Broadway, and the other saleswomen got the same price. Then
she was on her feet nearly all the time. She was there at eight and staid till
seven: all were expected to take their dinner and eat in the store. Mrs. H.
told me she knew a lady that stood in a store on Chestnut street,
Philadelphia, who received a salary of $800 a year. When girls first go into
a store, they usually get $1 a week during the season (three months), then
$1.50, and so increase. A pretty good knowledge of store keeping is
acquired by a smart person in six months, and now ladies are relieved in
large stores from the responsibility of making change. Many of the ladies in
New York stores are Irish. American ladies are more engaged in making
artificial flowers, bookfolding, &c. I was told rather a novel feature in the
life of shop girls, viz.: that many board from home, for the sake of having
company; and in addition to this, men, earning good wages, but of
disreputable character, will often board in low houses, and ingratiate
themselves into the favor of the girls, until they work the ruin of one or
more. Mr. D. employs five ladies, and pays them from $3 to $5. He prefers
ladies. When he takes beginners, he pays $1.50 a week, and better wages as
they become more capable. He has paid $8, and even $9 a week. The ladies
are in the store from eight to half past eight. He allows them to sit when no
customers are in and there is nothing doing. A lady with whom I talked, and
who had stood in a store on Catherine street, New York, finds the
occupation very injurious, because of having to be on her feet so constantly,
and its lasting from 7 A. M. until 9 P. M. In some stores they are obliged to
remain until eleven, and even twelve, in busy seasons. On Grand and
Catherine streets, New York, they keep open very late. She says, when the
weather is dull, and there are but few customers, employers are apt to be
cross and vent their bad feelings on the girls. And in those stores the girls

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cannot sit down to take a stitch for themselves; but, when there are no
customers to wait on, they must make up undersleeves, capes, and caps for
the store. She now keeps a millinery and fancy store, and pays her girls $5 a
week, and the girls are in the store from seven to nine. They make up
bonnets, when not waiting on customers, and so have a change of posture
without a loss of time. She has a friend in a Broadway store, that receives
$1 a day. A saleswoman should know how to make out accounts. Ability to
speak the French and German languages is a most valuable acquisition to a
saleswoman in our cities. One discouraging feature in the history of
saleswomen is, that their wages are not advanced like those of men. In
Detroit, Michigan, girls receive from $3 to $5 for standing in a store. "In
Cleveland, in 1854, there was one dry-goods store where four lady clerks
were employed at salaries from $200 to $350 per annum. In one shoe store
a lady received a salary of $250; and one, in another shoe, store, $200. In a
millinery and fancy dry-goods store, kept by ladies, fifteen girls were
employed at from $4 to $6 per week. In another, kept by a gentleman, ten
girls were employed at from $4 to $6 per week." In the same city,
gentlemen clerks usually receive from $250 to $600 per annum. At a store
on Grand street, New York, where a number of saleswomen are employed,
the owner told me he takes girls in the spring and fall. He tries them for one
month, and such as he finds he can make anything of he retains. He then
pays them something, and increases their wages in proportion to their
advancement. Some never rise above $3; but those who are ambitious and
desirous to excel and make proportionate effort, he will pay higher. He has
paid as high as $12 a week. A merchant keeping a large trimming store on
Canal street, pays his women from $1.50 to $8 per week, and they are in the
store from seven in the morning till dark. To wait in a store requires
experience; and a lady, in getting a situation, should endeavor to do so
through the influence of a merchant. It is very desirable to have a good
location for a store. Mr. M. pays his saleswomen from $2 to $6, according
to their qualifications. At a confectionery the woman told me she gives $6 a
month and board and washing; but as she does not keep open on Sunday,
the girl would have to go home Saturday night and stay till Monday. She
would be kept busy all the time, from seven in the morning till eleven at
night, waiting on customers, cleaning tables, washing plates, sweeping
floors, &c. On most of the avenues in New York, merchants do not sell as

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much, nor receive such a profit, as on Broadway, and employ women
because they can get them cheaper. In a small variety store, a lady told me
she had paid $4 a week and board to one who had never stood in a store; but
the lady was a friend. She remarked: "If a person has the inclination, a
memory, and common sense, she can soon learn. Few are willing to take
learners. American ladies are not ambitious enough to keep store. For one
month in summer and one in winter there is little doing." A lady
confectioner says: "It requires a very honest person to be in a confectionery,
because small sums are being constantly received and no note taken of
them. Girls are paid according to their capabilities from $2 to $5, and are in
the store from 7 A. M. to 9, 10, 11, and even 12 P. M., in busy seasons,
which are about the holidays. It requires some weeks to know the prices,
where to place the articles, and how to make them appear to advantage." A
merchant, who employs saleswomen, told me he thought women have a
better sense of propriety and are more particular than men, but they lack
judgment and promptness. He thinks women do very well as far as they go,
but there is a boundary line in ability, beyond which women cannot pass.
The gentleman referred to was indebted to his mother, who had kept the
store he then owned, for his education and position in business. Mr. P.,
seller of ladies' trimmings, employs from twenty to twenty-five
saleswomen, who knit and embroider for the store when not waiting on
customers. A lady who waited in the store told me they change their
position frequently, seldom sitting more than ten minutes at a time. Women
are paid from $4 to $10 per week, and are in the store from half past 8
A. M. to half past 6 P. M. They pay from $2.50 to $3.50 for board. The
business can be learned in from three to six months. While learning, they
receive enough to pay their board. Industry and ambition are necessary for
success. The prosperity of the business in the future depends on the fashion
and the amount of money in circulation. Winter is the best season for the
sale of goods. The women are mostly German; they succeed best in
knitting, because they are brought up to it. There are openings in the
business, West and South. A saleswoman told me her business is hard on the
back, because of the standing, reaching up, and bending. She is paid $6 per
week, her store companions $3, spending eleven hours in the store. A
person of business qualifications requires only practice to make a
saleswoman. She has often heard ladies complain of having to purchase

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small or fancy articles of men. She thought heavy dress goods could be
better handled by men. She says dissatisfaction is likely to arise when an
employer boards his work hands. Mrs. D., who keeps a fancy store, told me
that fifteen or twenty years ago, it was a rare thing to see a saleswoman in a
store in New York. She says nearly all of her saleswomen have relations
dependent on them for support, and if they are thrown out of employment
for a week it is a serious matter. She pays $5 a week to experienced
saleswomen, and gives something to learners; all stay in the store ten hours.
She thinks honesty, truthfulness, intelligence, good address, and a
knowledge of human nature are the best qualifications. Spring and fall she
finds the best seasons for selling goods, and thinks the occupation for a lady
next best to teaching. A merchant in New Haven writes: "We employ from
two to five women (all American) as clerks, paying from $3 to $6 per week.
To learners we pay $2 per week. The employment of women is on the
increase. My clerks are employed through the year, and work from ten to
eleven hours per day. We employ women to save expense, and because we
believe them most honest." A firm in Providence, who sell gloves, hosiery,
&c., write: "We employ ten saleswomen on an average, and pay from $2 to
$7 per week, ten hours a day. We pay $2 per week to learners. To learn
thoroughly requires about six months' practice. We consider the prospect
good of the occupation being opened to more women. One third of our
hands we send off in summer and winter. We find women neater and more
steady than men, but not so energetic." The proprietor of a large
establishment in Philadelphia writes: "About thirty women are employed by
us in selling dry goods. Their health generally improves by their active
occupation, the proper ventilation of our warehouse, and the regular habits
to which they become accustomed. Wages are from $1 to $10 per week;
they are paid less than men because their time of work is shorter, their
expenses are less, and their channels of usefulness more circumscribed. A
lifetime is needed to learn the business thoroughly, although in five years
much may be learned. Women are paid while learning. Quickness of
intellect and of body, good temper, and pleasant manners are very essential.
Women well instructed are generally permanent in an establishment. Our
most busy seasons are from February to June, and September to December.
In no season are saleswomen thrown out of employment. In winter they
spend eight and a half hours in the store; in summer, nine hours. Seventy-

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five per cent. are of American parents. The work is fatiguing at times, but
not wearing on the system. Another part of our occupation, in which women
might be employed, if properly instructed, is bookkeeping. Women are
deficient in generalizing, excellent in concentrativeness. Many of our
saleswomen have been teachers, and some return to it. They have their
evenings as their own from 6 P. M.; they have good moral boarding places,
and a public library open gratuitously. About one half live with parents; the
remainder board at from $2 to $2.50 per week, perhaps two persons
occupying the same room." In Paris, France, young women in stores receive
for their services their lodging, washing, and board, with from $40 to $80
per annum.

116. Street Sellers.

The number of women alone, in London, according to Mr. Mayhew's
estimate, engaged in street sales, wives, widows, and single persons, is from
25,000 to 30,000. Girls and women form a large proportion of the street
sellers, and earn from sixty-two cents to $1 a week. The comparative
newness of our country, the smaller size of the cities, and the greater
demand for manual labor have presented fewer calls for street sellers. We
hope the time may never come when our streets will be thronged, as those
of London are, with street venders, for we consider it not by any means an
index of general prosperity. More especially do we hope the scanty pittance
obtained by their labor, and the consequent privation and suffering, may
never be the portion of any of our population willing to work for a support.
All the wants of a great city can be supplied by the London street sellers.
They are patronized mostly by those in the middle and lower walks of life.
All the varieties imaginable are represented in their sale of articles. Both
dressed and undressed food can be obtained of them. Home and foreign
fruits and vegetables of all kinds have each their separate sales. Of the
eatables and drinkables offered by them for sale, the solids consist of hot
eels, pickled whelks, oysters, sheep's trotters, pea soup, fried fish, ham
sandwiches, hot green peas, kidney puddings, boiled meat puddings, beef,
mutton, kidney and eel pies, and baked potatoes. In each of these provisions
the street poor find a midday or midnight meal. The pastry and

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confectionery which tempt the street eaters are tarts of rhubarb, currant,
gooseberry, cherry, apple, damson, cranberry, and (so called) mince pies;
plum dough and plum cake; lard, currant, almond, and many other kinds of
cakes, as well as of tarts; gingerbread nuts and heart cakes; Chelsea buns,
muffins, and crumpets; sweet stuff includes the second kind, of rocks,
sticks, lozenges, candies, and hard cakes; the medicinal confectionery, of
cough drops and horehound; and, lastly, the more novel and aristocratic
luxury of street ices and strawberry cream, at two cents a glass (in
Greenwich Park). The drinkables are tea, coffee, and cocoa; ginger beer,
lemonade, Persian sherbet, and some highly colored beverages which have
no specific name, but are introduced to the public as cooling drinks; hot
elder cordial or wine; peppermint water; curds and whey; water; ice milk,
and milk (just from the cow), in the parks. In addition to this information,
most of which is derived from Mr. Mayhew's "London Labor and London
Poor," we will devote the remainder of the article to information from the
same author; and would do so in his words, were it not that we would like
to condense as much as possible. For the substance, we acknowledge,
therefore, our indebtedness to Mr. Mayhew. In the suburbs of London, some
people spend their time collecting snails, worms, grasshoppers, caterpillars,
toads, snakes, and lizards, which they sell in the city as food for birds.
Some, in collecting frogs, which they sell to French families, at hotels and
at hospitals. Some devote their time to the sale of coffee, beer, and baked
potatoes. Some engage in the sale of coke, some of salt, and some of sand.
Nor is literature forgotten by the street sellers. "There are," says Mr. M.,
"five houses in London that publish street literature, and six authors and
poets that prepare such literature in prose or rhyme." Some streetsellers
devote themselves to the hawking of dog collars, and some to the sale of rat
poisons. Some collect the nests of wild birds and the eggs, and sell them.
Some sell whips; and some, walking sticks; but these last articles, we
believe, are sold only by men. In London, some women sell refuse fruits;
some, water-colored pictures and cheap engravings; some, coins
commemorating public events. Some engage in the sale of children's
watches. Some sell implements belonging to a trade; for instance, tailors'
implements. Some sell washerwomen's clothes lines, pegs, and props; or
kitchen utensils, as tin ware, vegetable nets, kettle holders, &c. Some of the
street sellers are blind, with having taxed their eyes too greatly in sewing

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for slop shops. Some women are co-workers with the men in the sale of
crockery and glass ware. They go in pairs (generally husband and wife);
some with a large basket between them, others with separate baskets. Some
sell spar ornaments, and some, china ornaments; some, lace, and some,
millinery; some, thread, tape, needles, &c. Quite a number sell women's
second-hand apparel. Some sell umbrellas; some, men's suspenders, belts,
and trouser straps. Others again will sell embroidery, stockings, gaiters,
shoe laces, blacking, pipes, quack medicines, snuff, tobacco boxes, and
cigar cases; and in winter some are seen carrying even kindling wood to
sell. Some women sell dolls, spectacles, wash leather, china cement, razor
paste, matches, or japanned ware. Some women carry sponge in baskets;
they either sell it for money or exchange it for old clothes. A few sell
musical instruments. Some offer guide books, play bills, newspapers,
stationery, and jewelry. Rabbits, squirrels, parrots, and other kinds of birds
are sold by them; and some dispose of dead game. Seeds, flowers, roots,
and, about Christmas, evergreens, are sold in large numbers. In shops, some
try to resell slops from kitchens, old glass, metal, or worn clothes, &c.;
some, exhausted tea leaves, which they dispose of to those that dye and
redye them to sell again.—We give this chapter, because it comprises all
and many more than the sellers on our streets. The few engaged in street
sales in our cities are mostly confined to old women, who sit at the corners,
with stands on which rest store articles, tin ware, sweetmeats, and fruits, or
a small lot of fancy articles. There are several stands of second-hand books
and newspapers, or shelves of candy, kept by men, but the variety in the
business is quite limited, compared with the cities of Europe. Mr. Mayhew
thinks the majority of street sellers in London have been servants and
mechanics that could not get employment. Some street sellers go on foot
through the country during the summer, to sell at fairs and races. Many
others get employment from the farmers in gathering vegetables and fruits
for market, weeding gardens, picking hops, and assisting in haymaking and
harvesting. In Paris, some women carry bread to sell, in baskets strapped to
their backs. In New York, I saw two women with baskets of vegetables and
fruit to sell. I spoke to one, who told me she earns sometimes as much as $1
a day, and sometimes but a few cents. In winter, it is not unusual to see girls
with baskets of dried thyme, parsley, and sage, who sell it for culinary
purposes. I talked with a woman who carried tin ware in a basket. She often

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does not earn fifty cents a day, and will be walking all day, not even going
home at noon. She buys by the dozen, and so gets the articles a little
cheaper. I inquired of a girl selling radishes how many she usually disposed
of in a day. She takes them around only in the afternoon, and sometimes
sells to the amount of $1.25.

117. Toy Merchants.

This is a business better suited to the natural nurses of children than to men.
A handsome profit is derived from the sale of toys. The busy seasons with
toy merchants and confectioners are about Christmas and New Year. Toys
might be more extensively made in our country, thereby giving employment
to many now without it. Women mostly stand in toy shops in New York.
Even so small an item as the eyes of children's dolls produces a circulation
of several thousand pounds in England. Several establishments in London
are devoted exclusively to the manufacture of dolls.

118. Wall Paper Dealers.

Selling wall paper is a light, pretty business. In cities it affords a
remunerative return; in towns and villages it is sold mostly by dry-goods
merchants and druggists. The only objection I see to it is, that a step ladder
must be used to get the paper down from the higher shelves; but a small boy
might be used for that, and also for carrying paper home to purchasers.

119. Worn Clothes and Second-hand Furniture.

Mr. Mayhew tells us that in London thirty persons are engaged in the
exclusive sale of second-hand boots and shoes. He mentions one man that,
in 1855, was thought to take over £100 ($500) a day. Boots and shoes, too
far gone to be repaired, are sold to Prussian-blue manufacturers—so
nothing is lost. In Philadelphia, near Penn Square, may be seen ranged, on
an open space, a large quantity of second-hand clothes, shoes, dresses, &c.,
for sale. The business, in this country, of buying and selling again worn

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clothes is mostly in the hands of the Jews—perhaps altogether. In all
countries it is more or less a favorite business with them. The time is past
when the Jew was prohibited in other countries from holding real estate; yet
the Jews in all countries, so far as I know, generally retain their property in
money, or invest it in something movable. Old clothes in our country are
generally given in exchange for new china, glass ware, &c.; yet a number in
the large cities pay money. In London all kinds of articles are given for
them, and then they are taken to the old-clothes exchanges, where they are
disposed of for money, principally to shopkeepers who deal in the sale of
worn clothes. Some of these articles are made over, some made smaller,
some turned, some changed in form; in fact, the greatest ingenuity is
exercised to employ to advantage the articles used. Second-hand articles are
not so much sold in this country as in older countries, where money is more
difficult to get, and poverty greater. Boys' cloth caps and roundabouts, and
women's shoes, are made of old coats and pants, so worn in parts as to be
unsalable. Coats are also made of cloaks, bonnets of aprons, &c. Men's and
women's apparel of all sorts is bought and sold by them. Old umbrellas and
parasols are bought, repaired, and sold. Silk dresses, if unfit to be sold, are
used for making children's hoods, facing coats, &c. The scraps are used for
making quilts. Old woollen dresses, whose waists are much worn, are used
for making wadded skirts. Tailors' and dress-makers' trimmings are
sometimes purchased for a small sum, and used in making up girls' hoods,
boys' caps, &c. In London, most of women's second-hand apparel is (as it
should be) sold by women. It is customary for buyers to cry down every
article offered them for sale or barter, but those they offer for sale are
magnified into ten times their value. Many of the men who go through the
streets of our cities buying old clothes or giving china ware in exchange for
them, take them home and their wives repair them. I called at a second-hand
variety store in Brooklyn. The woman says most people engaged in the
business are foreigners. The business is not unhealthy. Clothes brought in
are washed and done over, and their domestics are always healthy. Their
business is very dull. Ten years ago it was quite brisk, but many stores of
the kind have been opened in Brooklyn lately. She and her daughter go and
look at any articles for sale; and if they think the person honest and the
price suits, they will buy; so that, if any one should come and claim the
clothes as being stolen, they could immediately take a policeman to the

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place where they got them. If articles are bought, they examine and put a
price on them, and get the address of the individual. If they find they are not
stolen, they then purchase. The poorest season for the business is midwinter.
They keep their store open till ten o'clock at night. I was told at another
store they sell most clothes in the evening to laborers' wives. In a store in
New York, the lady says she buys her clothes of Jews that go about
exchanging china for old clothes. It is very necessary that a good locality be
fixed on, near a river or bay, on a thoroughfare, or in a neighborhood where
many poor people live. One woman told me she employs two girls and
three men to make over and do up worn clothes for her store. She pays her
girls, each, thirty-one cents a day, and they work twelve hours. She sells
most in the evening. At one place I was told that Mondays and Saturdays
are their busiest days for selling. They sell most to the French, Irish, and
negroes. Germans do not like to buy second-hand clothes. She regretted that
in her present store she had not glass cases to keep the dust off her clothes.
Her purchasing is mostly done among the rich, she says, and so it brings her
a good class of customers. The keeper of a second-hand furniture store told
me that she goes to auction herself and purchases. It is two or three years
before the business pays. She will go to a dwelling and look at furniture
before purchasing. It requires a man to do the lifting. She has old furniture
repaired, chairs reseated, &c., before she attempts to sell them.

120. Variety Shops.

Variety shops, for the sale of coal, wood, kindling, candles, matches, and
water, are frequently seen in the poor districts of cities. They are a great
convenience to those whose means will not admit of their buying in large
quantities. It costs them more to buy it in that way, yet the keeping of shops
affords a subsistence to those who do.

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EMPLOYMENTS PERTAINING TO GRAIN, BIRDS,
FLOWERS, FRUITS, AND VEGETABLES.

121. Agriculturists.

With industry and enterprise, what may not woman accomplish! We have
heard of women in Western New York, Ohio, and Michigan, that not only
carry on farms, but do the outdoor work, as tilling, reaping, &c. It is said
that in countries where the physical labor of women in the open air is as
great as that of men, their constitutions become as stout and capable of
endurance. Agriculture is an employment safe and profitable, and capable
of almost any extension in this country. There is a great difference usually
between the theory and practice of farming. Many agricultural works and
periodicals are published that abound in practical instruction. In grazing
countries stock is raised, and the labor of the people is given to making
butter and cheese. A variety of soil and difference of altitude produce
different crops in the same latitude. In the United States the raising of hops
is becoming a branch of national industry, and some women are employed
to pick them. In England and France large numbers of women are employed
to pick hops. In England, 52,000 acres of land are devoted to their
cultivation. There is danger, in picking hops, of getting wet and taking cold,
which acts upon the system very much the same as the ill effects of
calomel. But if proper care is used, the work is not unhealthy. There is a
people's college in New York State, where females are received as pupils as
well as males. No doubt a horticultural department will be formed. We think
it would be well if more women would devote themselves to agricultural
and horticultural employments. Weeding gardens and attending dairies or
poultry yards would each furnish work for more women than are now
employed, and save women from running to the cities, which are already
crowded to excess with applicants for work. Headley, in his "Adirondack
Mountains," says: "Twenty miles from any settlement on Brown's Tract in
Adirondack, Arnold and his family of thirteen children—twelve girls and a

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boy—live by their trafficking, by sporting, and cultivating the field. The
agricultural part, however, is performed chiefly by females, who plough,
sow, and rake equal to any farmer. Two of the girls threshed alone, with
common flails, five hundred bushels of oats in one winter, while their father
and mother were away trapping for marten. They frequently ride without
bridle or even halter, guiding the horse by a motion or stroke of the hand.
They are modest and retiring in their manners, and wild and timid as fawns
among strangers." "On the west side of the Scioto, just below Columbus,
there is planted a field of six hundred acres of bottom land. Twenty-five
German girls follow the ploughs, and do the hoeing, for which they receive
62½ cents per day." There are two sisters in Ohio who manage a farm of
three hundred acres; and two other sisters, near Media, Pennsylvania, that
conduct as large a farm.

122. Bee Dealers.

A new species of bee, that builds in trees instead of hives, is about to be
introduced by Government from Paraguay. In keeping bees there is no
expense. The hives can easily be made at home, or purchased for a
comparative trifle. Their food they seek themselves. "The bee mistresses
gain a living by selling honey in many rural districts of England." Most of
the honey used in the United States is collected in the South. That to be
carried to the North is put in hogsheads. Merchants who buy it have small
glass jars filled, which are sold in markets and groceries.

123. Bird Importers and Raisers.

There are establishments in most of the large cities of the United States for
the sale of birds. The proprietors import and raise them. Most imported
birds are from Germany. They are caught by the peasants living among the
mountains, and sold for a trivial sum in small wooden cages. The favorite
pet bird has long been the canary. In the South the mocking bird is
common, and often seen caged. But few of our most beautiful birds bear
domestication. Their wild, free nature unfits them for it. In Germany there
is a class of men who make it a separate business to train birds to sing. The

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bullfinch is the kind most commonly taught—perhaps the only kind. They
teach in bird classes of from four to seven members each. It is done by
withholding food from them in the dark and playing on a bird organ or a
flute. A gentleman told me, he thought few, if any, ladies could be repaid in
making a business of bird raising; indeed, he had known several undertake
it, but fail. He says, people like German birds best, because they learn
earlier to sing; and, you know, a purchaser always wants to hear a bird sing
before he buys it. At a bird importer's I priced birds. He asked for a male
canary, $3; for a female, $1; an African parrot, $8; green parrot, $5;
goldfinch, $3; and thrush, $2. Mrs. L., a German, who raises canaries, told
me she could not support herself by raising birds, but she knows several
men that do. She says the American birds are the longest lived—the
imported die in about two years after reaching this country. Foreign birds
are generally devoid of strength, and their limbs are apt to turn backward as
they rest on the roosts. I suppose that arises from their being shut up in
small cages during the long journey across the ocean, and many of them,
being caught birds, cannot bear the confinement and cramped position.
Another bird dealer attributed the fact of imported being less healthy than
American birds, to their taking cold in crossing the ocean. American birds
that are not mated may live fifteen or sixteen years. The breed, form, color,
sex, and ability to sing determine their price. It is difficult to tell the age of
canaries from their appearance. So one is liable to be imposed upon by
unprincipled dealers, who prefer to sell old birds, particularly of the
feminine gender. Birds are subject to a variety of diseases. Birds are
cheapest in the fall, as it requires more to keep them in winter than summer,
and many do not wish to be at that expense. Mrs. L. sells most in February,
March, and April, the breeding season. Prices vary from $2 to $7. It does
not take long to learn to raise birds, another bird raiser told me, when you
know just how to feed them, and the proper temperature for them. She sells
most in winter.

124. Bird and Animal Preservers.

I notice in the census of Great Britain three women returned as animal
preservers; and I know there are some in Germany, three of whom are in

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Strasbourg. Bird stuffing is a trade in which but few can find employment.
It would therefore be necessary to have something else to rely on in case
that should fail. It is thought by some to be unhealthy, on account of the
arsenic used—particularly to young people. The senior of a firm I called on
had been engaged in it fifteen years without detriment to his health.
Females mostly prepare the branches of trees, or other fanciful stands, on
which the birds are placed. The frames are usually of wood or pasteboard,
covered with moss. I called at Mr. B.'s, and saw a young man who works
with him. He thinks the work is not unhealthy. It is an art in which there is
always room for improvement. Mr. B., who has been at it thirty years, says
he is always learning something new in regard to it, or making some
discovery in the art. The eyes are manufactured in New York. To one
practising the art a good eye for form is necessary, and an ability to imitate
nature closely. The spring of the year is the best season; but all seasons
answer. The only danger in summer is from insects. A bird stuffer told me
he would teach the art to one or two persons for $50; but he thinks the
prospect for employment poor. It is difficult to get birds to learn on in
winter; but in summer plenty can be had. He has had acquaintances
commence in New Orleans, St. Louis, and Chicago. The first two could not
make a living. He knows of two young ladies that have learned it merely as
a pastime. I called on a French lady, Mrs. L., who stuffs birds and animals.
She taught the art to a barber, who made a great deal of money by it. He
paid $150 for his instruction, spending every other day at it for two months.
A Cuban, who owns seven hundred slaves, paid her the same amount. He
wished to learn, that he might preserve birds he could obtain while
travelling in various countries. She has received several letters from Boston
requesting her to come there and stuff birds for a museum that is being
commenced. She was the personation of health, but she complained that she
suffered with rheumatism. She trembled much—she thought from
rheumatism. May it not be that it is the result of arsenic that she has got into
a pimple, or where the skin was broken? The work, of course, requires a
firm hand. She showed me a parrot, done, she said, in one hour, for which
she was to receive $3. A German book is written on the subject that contains
directions. The information can be obtained in English from a little work
called "Art Recreations." The ingredients are often sold in drug stores
already mixed. It can be done at all seasons. Mrs. L. thinks one could

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become proficient in two months' constant practice. A gentleman went to
California, and made a large collection of birds; stuffed them, and sent them
to various European countries. In the four years he was at it he made
$60,000. She sent six hundred to a museum in Paris a short time ago. She
thinks St. Louis may present an opening. Mrs. L. knows a man who has
been employed in stuffing birds and animals in the museum of Strasbourg
from the age of fifteen to seventy-seven, and is a very corpulent man, being
nearly as broad as he is long. That she gave as an indication of its
healthfulness; but it may be that he is bloated from the arsenic, as it has that
effect. She says even poor people will pay to have a pet bird stuffed, when
they have not a dime to buy bread.

125. Florists.

The rearing of flowers has ever been a charming pastime to many of our
sex. When the pleasure can be combined with profit, it is well. The
cultivation of flowers is a taste whose beneficial results are not sufficiently
appreciated. When the cares and troubles of life begin to press upon men
and women, they are apt to neglect the cultivation of flowers, when it might
absorb some of the cares that burden their hearts. Vines, roses, and
ornamental fruit trees cost but a small sum, and yet how much they add to
the beauty and comfort of a place! Most of the choice roses of our country
are from cuttings imported from France. They are brought over in jars.
Many, of course, die on the voyage. The variety is very great. The selling of
roots, plants, and bouquets is quite remunerative in some places. Much
depends on the knowledge and skill of the florist, the location of his
gardens, and the fondness of the people in the community for flowers. It is a
delightful business for a lady, if she has men to do the planting, digging,
and other hard work. In Paris, there is a market devoted to the sale of
flowers. In most of the markets of our large cities, are exposed for sale pot
plants and bouquets, also shrubs and evergreens. A florist told me that he
employs two women in winter to make up bouquets and wreaths for ladies
going to evening and dinner parties, concerts, and other places of
amusement. It requires taste and ingenuity. He pays each $5 per week. They
can make up wreaths to look like artificial flowers. A woman on Long

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Island makes a living by raising flowers that are sold in New York. I was
told that some lady has established a horticultural school on Long Island.
Florists in and near cemeteries are apt to find sale for flowers and plants.
Hence it is common to observe gardens and hot houses so located. I rode
out to a florist's near Brooklyn. He says the business is not so good as it
was, because the Germans in Hoboken raise flowers and sell bouquets for
sixpence that he could not sell for twenty-five cents. The man does not send
bouquets to the city, as it does not pay. Their profits are mostly derived
from the sale of choice fruit trees raised at Flushing. They sell bouquets at
their hot houses from a shilling up to $5. They derive most profit from
flowers in winter. A florist's occupation is healthy, and affords much
pleasure to one fond of flowers. Yet it requires close attention to business.
In England it was formerly customary to serve a seven-years' apprenticeship
at the business, but three or four years will answer very well, if an
individual gives undivided attention to his business, and is with a superior
florist. A knowledge of botany is necessary to a florist. It requires
considerable taste to make up a bouquet, and therefore is very appropriate
to women. A knowledge of colors and their artistic arrangement is essential;
also a natural taste for flowers, and some patience. Making bouquets,
wreaths, &c., is slow work. The stems of flowers for bouquets are cut very
short, as most of the nutriment of the stem is lost to the succeeding ones by
cutting long ones. Artificial stems are added to the natural ones, and are
usually made of broom straw or ravelled matting. Mrs. F., the wife of a
florist, says the wives of most florists assist their husbands in making up
bouquets, wreaths, and baskets. She thinks, if a florist had enough to do to
employ a lady, he would pay her $3 or $4 a week. She has often thought a
small volume might be written on the flower business in New York. She
says no one has an idea of the amount of money expended for flowers. Mr.
D. used to send out $1,000 worth of flowers on New Year's morning. It is a
very irregular employment. Some days she sells a great many for balls,
parties, and funerals. One might learn to make bouquets, if they have taste
and judgment, by a few months' practice. The flowers that are sold at
different seasons vary greatly, and the value of them depends much on their
age. Mrs. F. has sold a few baskets of flowers at $50 apiece. She sells many
flowers for Roman Catholic churches about Easter. Mrs. R. says florists
prefer to have men, because they can work in the garden or green house

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when not cutting or putting up flowers. The Germans have run the business
down in New York. A florist named Flower writes: "We employ from two to
four women tying buds, hoeing, weeding, &c.; in winter they help about
grafting. They are paid fifty cents a day, of ten hours. Women so employed
are German born. The employment is healthy. Men get seventy-five cents a
day, as they can do more work; but the principal reason for employing
women is, that we can hire them cheaper and like them better for light
work. Women could do all parts of our business, if they had a fair chance
with men, and would improve the chance. One year would give a general
knowledge, but five would be better. A good, sound constitution, and
industrious habits, are the best qualifications. Women that want such work
can find plenty of it; but outdoor work is too hard for American women."
Another florist writes: "In Europe, where women are sometimes employed
in fruit or vegetable gardens, their wages are usually about half a man's.
Women (chiefly Germans) are employed in this country by farmers to pick
fruit, vegetables, &c., by the quantity. At light work, done by contract,
women, I believe, can make as much as men. Several years would be
necessary to learn the business; some branches of it might be learned in a
few weeks. The requisite most needed for women to work in green houses,
is a change of fashion. Their dress unfits them altogether for moving about
in crowded plant houses. Were their dress similar to the men's, I see no
reason why they would not be equally useful in other departments as well as
this. If that should ever happen, they would, in my opinion, be worth as
much as men; for the work is mostly light, and ladies, having a natural taste
for flowers, would soon learn it. If you have gone through green houses,
you cannot but know the difficulty of doing so without breaking everything.
Men, at this kind of work, are not fully employed in winter." A lady florist
writes: "I sometimes think my nervous excitability is to some extent caused
by an excess of electricity, derived from the earth or flowers with which I
work."

126. Flower Girls.

Flowers are the mementoes of an earthly paradise. They are said to be "the
alphabet of angels, whereby they write mysterious things"—the mysteries

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of God's love and goodness. Earth would be a wilderness without them.
Girls sell flowers most profitably at opera houses, theatres, and other places
of amusement. They buy of those who devote themselves to the raising of
flowers, and arrange them into bouquets. A number dispose of flowers on
Broadway; and, summer before last, I observed a French woman at the
Atlantic ferry selling bouquets to people waiting for the boat. A florist told
me he disposes of flowers to girls who make up bouquets and sell them.
One of them pays $500 rent for her room. It yields a handsome profit when
a person has a good stand. He would like a stand at the opera house, but a
great many others are looking forward to it. Some pay for the privilege,
others obtain it by being known to the managers. I was told by a man who
supplies bouquets that he pays to florists from $8 to $10 a day for flowers,
and then makes up his own bouquets. I have been told that at some hotels in
Germany, girls pass around the table at dinner, and give bouquets. Such
recipients as feel disposed, pay a small sum.

127. Fruit Growers.

If American women would only turn their attention to the cultivation of
fruits and flowers for market, instead of giving it up to ignorant foreigners,
how much better it would be! A few hundred dollars would make a very
handsome beginning; and those who do not have so much at their disposal,
could get their friends to advance it. At Shrewsbury and Lebanon, much
fruit is put up by the Shakers, and sent to New York for sale. Women might
have orchards, raise fruit, and send it to market. Mrs. D. owns a farm, and
does not disdain to graft fruit trees, superintend their planting, gather fruit,
send it to market, &c.; and she realizes a handsome profit. The grafting and
budding of fruit trees might be done very well by women, and also the
budding of ornamental shrubs. "Miss S. B. Anthony," says the Binghampton
Republican, "resides at Rochester, and supports herself by raising
raspberries from land given to her by her father." I have been told that on
one acre of land near New York city a thousand dollars' worth of
strawberries can be grown. In New Jersey and Delaware, women are
employed to gather berries for market. If a lady is within a few miles of
town, and has facilities for raising and sending fruit to market, she will not

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be likely to fail in meeting with ready sale. Berries bring a good price in the
markets of a city. In Cincinnati, from May 21st to June 1st, 1847, 5,463
bushels of strawberries were sold, and near St. Louis is a gentleman that has
some hundreds of acres of strawberries in cultivation to assist in supplying
the St. Louis market. The drying of fruit affords employment, and generally
well remunerates time so given, if carried on extensively.

128. Fruit Venders.

Flowers are formed to please the eye and indulge the fancy; but fruits are a
healthy and important article of food. Some women sell fruit in market;
some, at stalls in the street; some, in fruit shops or groceries; and some,
from baskets, going from house to house. Most dispose of small fruit, such
as berries—some wild and some cultivated. The ferries in large cities are
very good stands for sellers of fruits and sweetmeats. Places of amusement
and the entrance to cemeteries, are also. I talked to one apple woman, who
says her business is a slavish one. Her stand was at the Atlantic ferry, New
York. When she goes to her dinner, she gets the gate keeper to mind her
stand. She earns, on an average, $1 a day. She rises, gets her breakfast, and
starts to market by five o'clock. She remains at her stand until nine o'clock
at night. She sells the greatest quantity of fruit in the spring and fall, when
people are most apt to be making money, and so permit a little self-
indulgence. She sells least in winter. I saw a woman on the street selling
fruit and flowers. When she is out all day, she can generally earn from fifty
cents to $1. Another fruit seller told me that she makes a good living. She
has been at her stand eight years. She sells most fresh fruit in summer; and
in winter, about the holidays, most dry fruit and nuts. In the coldest weather
she remains in her basement, heated by a stove, where she stores her fruit at
night. Her grapes are brought in on the cars, put up in pasteboard boxes.
Her location is excellent, for the working class of people pass in the
evening, returning from work, or in their promenades. I talked with an old
woman at an apple stand, who told me she often sells $1 worth of articles in
a day, but seldom makes a profit of more than half. She sells most fruit in
summer, but most cigars, candy, and nuts in winter. She says there is a stand
on every block, in that part of New York. Hers is a good location, because

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so many men pass. In wet weather, she does not sell much. She is shielded
in winter, by sitting in a hall near, where she can keep an eye on her stand.
She lives near, and while she goes home to dinner, her husband sells for her.
An apple woman, in New York, told us, she has kept her stand in
Washington park for seven years. She remains at it all the year. If any other
fruit vender should trespass on her bounds, a policeman would soon send
him or her off. Another old woman, keeping a fruit stand, told me she
makes a comfortable living at it in summer; but in winter she stays in a
confectionery store, and gets $10 a month and her board. At another fruit
stand, on asking the old lady how she got on, she burst into tears, and
replied, very poorly, scarcely made enough to keep her alive. A professional
honor exists among fruit women, and a desire to sustain each other in their
rights. A wholesale fruit dealer writes me that it takes from two to four
years to learn the business, when carried on extensively.

129. Gardeners.

The strength and energy of people, in northern climates, have led them to
excel in the rearing of fruit—not in imparting a more delicious flavor, but in
the quantity, the fulness, and the size of the fruit. In the balmy air and under
the sunny sky of the South, vegetation develops more rapidly and more
luxuriantly. He who adds to the list of beautiful and fragrant flowers, or
improves some variety of fruit, enlarging, or rendering it more luscious, will
be remembered as a benefactor. Gardening is a pleasant and healthy
occupation to those that love outdoor life. A woman can no more be
healthful and beautiful without exercise in the open air, than a plant can
when deprived of air and light. We learn, from Mr. Howitt's "Rural Life in
England," that "there are on the outskirts of Nottingham, upward of five
thousand gardens, each less than the tenth of an acre. The bulk of these are
occupied by the working classes. These gardens are let at from half a penny
to three halfpence per yard." German women are often employed, near
cities, to weed gardens, gather vegetables, and other such work. "In
Hereford, England, there are no fewer than six annual harvests, in each of
which children are largely employed: 1, bark peeling; 2, hay; 3, corn, 4,
hops; 5, potatoes; 6, apples; 7, acorns. Add to these, bird keeping in autumn

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and spring, potato setting and hop tying, and the incidental duties of baby
nursing and errand going."

130. Makers of Cordial and Syrups.

Women who live in the country, and have small fruit, would find it pay well
to make cordials, berry vinegars, &c. There are some establishments where
it is made, and women are employed to gather the fruit. The people of the
Southern States have depended on the North for these articles, but we
presume a change will be wrought. The abundant growth of small fruit in
the South will enable the South before long to meet the demand. We think
there will be many openings of this kind, in the South and West, for many
years to come. Some manufacturers of ginger wine, bitters, syrups, cordials,
and grape wines, write: "In reply to your circular we say—We do not
employ any women in our business, although we indirectly furnish
employment for several hundred, during the various fruit seasons, in
gathering most kinds of fruit, which we use in our business. Many of these
fruits are wild, which we buy at a specified price. The gatherers control
their own time, and their earnings will vary from fifty cents to $1 each, per
day. It would probably require the labor of about six hundred for six months
of each year, in gathering the amount of fruit which we use. But as we do
not directly employ them, or know anything about the general business of
those thus employed, we are unable to give further particulars."

131. Root, Bark, and Seed Gatherers.

When the grass is bowed by the sparkling dew, and the hills shrouded in
mist, plants exhale most freely their sweet odors. They are then gathered
and sold to manufacturers, who prepare from them oils, essences, and
perfumeries. An old Quaker lady on Tenth street, Philadelphia, keeping an
herb store, told me that she purchases her herbs mostly of men, but some
women do bring them to sell. It requires a knowledge of botany to gather
them, and the stage of the moon must be observed. Digging roots, and
gathering plants, at all seasons, is a hard business. At another herb store, I
learned that the prices paid gatherers depend much on the kind of herb, the

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difficulty of obtaining it, and the season when it is gathered. A woman may
earn $1 a week, or she may earn as much as $10. The roots and herbs are
bought by weight. Many are purchased fresh in market, but some of the
gatherers dry them. They are sent from different parts of the Union to the
cities and towns. One told me that she would rather purchase herbs and seed
put up by women, for they are neater and more careful with their work. She
sells most in spring and fall. An Indian doctress told me barks must be
gathered in the spring and fall, when they are full of sap; and roots, when
the leaves are faded or dead. She sometimes makes $20 worth of syrup in a
day. She says the business requires some knowledge of plants, experience in
the times of gathering, amount of drying, &c.

132. Seed Envelopers and Herb Packers.

In a seed store in Philadelphia, we found, they employ women in January
and February, at $2.50 a week, to put seeds up in paper bags, seal them, and
paste labels on. They go at eight in the morning, and remain until dark. At a
large drug store in Philadelphia, we were told they employ nine women.
They have seven distinct branches for the women, and separate apartments
for each branch, consisting of weighing and putting up powders, sorting
herbs and roots, putting up liquids, &c., &c. The women earn from $3 to $5
a week, and spend nine hours, from eight to six, having an hour at noon. In
busy seasons they remain till eight or nine, and receive additional wages.
There is nothing unhealthy in the business. They are paid $3 a week from
the time they are taken to learn, and deduction made for absence. A seller of
botanic medicines in Boston writes me: "He employs women in putting
medicines in small packages for the retail trade, bottling the same, and
labelling. He pays $5 a week to his women, and $3 a week while learning,
the time for which is six months. Common sense, neatness, and integrity are
the qualifications needed. The girls work from nine to ten hours. He will not
employ any but American women. He pays men $8 or $9, because they can
take them off, and put them upon work that girls cannot do. Women would
be paid better if they were stronger, and did not need so much waiting upon
in the way of lifting and arranging their work. Rainy days they want to stay
at home, or, if they come, it takes half a day for them to dry their clothes.

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Men they can depend on in all weather. Women might keep their books, if
their crinoline was not too extensive: that alone would bar them from the
counting room. Women are inferior only in physical disabilities. Girls are
good for nothing until after sixteen years of age; and nine in ten will get
married as soon as they are fairly initiated in work—hence the time spent
by women in acquiring a business education is to a certain extent lost—lost
to their employers, but of assistance to them in the education of their
children." Mr. P., botanic druggist says: "There are but three establishments
in New York, for this business, and twelve women would be quite enough
for them. They put up herbs in packages. One day's practice is enough for a
smart person. The women are paid from $3 to $5 a week." At the United
States Botanic Depot they employ one girl, and pay her $4 a week. She only
works in daylight. Mr. J. L. employs two girls to put up botanic medicines.
He has men to cork the bottles. They work ten months in the year. Nothing
is done in December and January. They pay $4 a week, of ten hours a day.
In Louisville, St. Louis, and Cincinnati, few women are employed in this
way. Some seedsmen and florists near Boston employ four ladies in
enveloping seed. One of the ladies writes: "We presume more ladies are
employed in Europe to put up seed than in this country. The employment is
not unhealthy. We are paid 6 cents an hour, and work by the hour. To learn
the part the women do, requires about two hours. Judgment is most needed.
Employment of this kind is increasing, there is a demand for female labor in
the seed department." A seedsman, in Rochester, writes: "We employ six
women in making paper bags, paying 25 cents per hundred. Boys are
employed at about the same wages. We have work from July to January.
The girls take their work home. We use some boys, because their work
benefits their families equally as much."

133. Sellers of Pets.

In Paris there are stores for the sale of dogs and cats. In London, the sale of
dogs is mostly on the streets, or at the residence of the raiser. The
aristocracy of England maintain 500,000 dogs and a large number of cats;
consequently food must be provided for them. The sale of birds is common.
Gold and silver fish, white rabbits, Guinea pigs, squirrels, tortoises, fawns,

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lambs, and goats, are sometimes sold in seed and flower stores. Flowers and
birds are the favorite pets of ladies in the United States. Everything of this
nature is sold to some extent in the markets and on the streets of our cities,
but generally at the houses of those who devote themselves to the business.

134. Wine Manufacturers and Grape Growers.

Many persons are becoming interested in the culture of the grape; and some
are spending time and money in experimenting. Longworth of Cincinnati
has realized a fortune from his operations. Belle Britain says: "In
Longworth's cellars are 700,000 bottles of wine. Mr. L. informed her (?)
that we have in this country at least 5,000 varieties of the grape, and his
vineyards yield from 600 to 700 gallons to the acre." The color of wine
depends on the color of the grapes from which it is made. In several of the
States, Ohio, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, and Alabama, vineyards are
flourishing, and many new ones are being planted out. The variety of soil
and surface in our country is such that there is every probability of success.
As yet, only two kinds have been much grown. No doubt a large number of
women will, in the course of a few years, be employed in the cultivation of
the vine and the manufacture of wine. One can soon learn, with a few
instructions in each season, the proper culture of the vine. A great deal of
the work in the vineyards of France and Switzerland is done by women.
Women do better that men, because their fingers are smaller and more
nimble. The want of intelligent culture has been the greatest barrier in the
introduction of graperies into our country; but such is the number of
foreigners now among us that have a practical knowledge of the business,
we need fear no want of workmen. Many, too, have not been willing to
invest capital in an uncertain enterprise. Wine manufacturers in Orange
county, N. Y., write: "We have not employed women to any great extent in
our business. There are some branches of the business in which women
might be suitably and profitably employed, where those branches are
extensively carried on. The bottling process, including cleaning of bottles,
filling, putting on foil, labels, &c., could be done by women as well as men.
Women could pick the grapes, and cull out the green and poor berries, and
prepare them for the press. They are employed for this purpose in Europe.

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The reasons why we have not employed women in these branches are, we
bottle not more than one sixth of our wine; we manufacture principally for
church communion and medicinal purposes, and the principal demand for
those purposes is by the gallon—consequently we send it out mostly in
casks. (Some wine growers bottle all.) The men, whom we necessarily
employ by the year or month in the cultivation of the ground, vines, &c.,
are of course employed in the season of the vintage, bottling, &c.; and in
hurried times, such as the time of picking the grapes, we get such additional
help as is easiest obtained, generally boys and girls, with sometimes
women. Women are in such demand here for household labor, that, unless
sought for at the proper time, March and the 1st of April, and hired for the
year, it would be almost impossible to obtain them. The wages generally
paid are from $5 to $7 per month, mostly $5 and $6." Another grape grower
writes, in answer to a circular: "I do not employ female help in my business,
except for a few weeks during the time of tying up the vines and in
gathering the fruit, for which I pay 50 cents per day, without board. Women
might be employed to quite an extent in this business, which is increasing in
the country to a wonderful degree."

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RAISERS, MAKERS, PREPARERS, AND DISPOSERS OF
ARTICLES OF FOOD.

135. Bread Bakers.

Nearly all the bakeries in New York are attended by women. I could not
learn of any women being employed in bread bakeries to mix or bake, but
they are in Germany and France. In France the bakehouse girls enter ovens
heated often to 300°, and, it is stated, sometimes to even 400°. Bakerooms
are usually of such great heat as to be injurious to the health of any but the
strongest and stoutest. Some establishments have day and night bakers. The
night bakers are up all night, and must have their bread ready by 5.30 A. M.
The day bakers go in at 7, and turn out a batch of bread at 11 A. M. Bakers
spend on an average seventeen hours at their work, and this no doubt
accounts partly for the absence of women from the occupation in this
country: seventeen hours out of the twenty-four are too many for any
woman to be on her feet. In this country the bakers are robust, hearty-
looking men, and mostly Germans. Their average wages are $6 a week.
Some bakers have a scaly eruption produced by frequent contact of the skin
with flour. Inhaling the flour in mixing bread I have heard is unhealthy.
Some women might object to working in the same room with men, and
baking is certainly very warm work in summer. In most European cities the
price of bread is regulated by the Government. The cost of materials and the
state of the market regulate the price. A fine is the penalty for a violation of
the law. In this country, bakers regulate the price of bread by the kind and
quality. No law is enforced specifying prices. Some years ago an attempt
was made in New York to have bread sold by the weight, but the bakers all
opposed it. They might have been tempted to put something heavy in the
flour. In large cities some establishments are devoted to one branch only of
the business. Baker's bread is more used in free than in slave States. In
Northern cities some families prepare their bread, cakes, pies, and meats,
and send them to bakeries, where for a small sum they are cooked. It saves

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a vast amount of labor. Some bakers use potatoes in making up wheat
bread. I never knew of rice being used by bakers in this country, but know it
is by some bakers in Paris. The modes of baking bread, and the kinds of
bread used, vary not only in different, but in the same countries. "Some
bakers give the impression their bread is made by women," said a lady in a
bakery, to us, "but it is not. A woman could not make up two or three barrels
of flour in a day. Men are just as neat bakers as women could be." At three
bakeries I was told by the employers that they pay their girls who attend the
shop $7 a month, and board them, but do not have their washing done.
From several girls that stood in bakeries I learned that they received from
$6 to $10 a month, and their board. Only one of the number got her washing
done without extra expense. The girls were expected to keep the counters,
waiters, jars, and floors clean. They must be in the bakery by 5 o'clock
A. M., and stay until 10 P. M. Some women require the girls to sew when
not waiting on customers, and some require them to sweep and keep the
room clean, and some even to wash the shop windows. Girls that stand in
bakeries receive no better compensation than house girls. A foreman of the
baking department, generally receives $8 a week, and his boarding. Girls
are usually paid from the time they enter. A knowledge of reading, writing,
and figures is considered sufficient. I was told by one lady in a shop that
girls attending bakeries usually receive from $8 to $10 a month, with board,
and some, also, get their washing done. They are not required to keep the
books for those terms, and the bakeries are few in number where female
employees keep the books. I was told by an Irish woman that in Ireland
there are few or no women attending bakeries and groceries. At one bakery
a girl told me she finds it very bad to be on her feet all the time. She could
not stay constantly in a bakery for one year at a time, she gets so weak from
excitement and fatigue. She says most Germans keep their bakeries open on
the Sabbath; but the Americans have too much respect for the day to do so.
On Saturday night, bakeries are often open until 12 o'clock, and sometimes
later.

136. Brewers.

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I wrote to a lady, whose name I saw in a directory as a brewer. She replies:
"You wish to know if I work at brewing, personally. I do not at present, but
have done so, and worked hard the man's part; but my means are such now
that I can do without. I have men employed, and a clerk, &c., &c. I am a
widow, and superintend my business, and understand all that is connected
with it. I suppose it is not necessary to dwell longer on the subject, as I am
out of the working part now. I am sixty-two years of age."

137. Candy Manufacturers.

"There are three hundred confectionery manufacturers and retail dealers in
New York city. Twelve establishments are devoted exclusively to the
manufacture of candies. In some, as many as a hundred hands are employed
in busy times. During the busy season, there are engaged in the
manufacturing houses about five thousand persons of both sexes, though a
very much larger number, probably some thousands, are indirectly
supported by it, the paper-box makers being generally busily employed, and
many children gaining a livelihood by hawking candies through the streets.
The city of New York is the headquarters of the confectionery trade,
supplying as much as all the rest of the Union together, and distributing the
results of its industry to all parts of the United States, as well as to Canada,
most of the West India Islands, Mexico, Chili, and many other places. It is
estimated that fully $1,000,000 worth of confectionery is made annually in
this city; and by that term we mean preparations of sugar, chocolate, jujube
paste, &c., but exclude many articles such as ice creams, jellies,
blancmanges, pastry, and other delicacies, which would sum up this amount
to perhaps double. Two of the principal houses manufacture daily between
them four thousand pounds of candies, at prices varying from 14 cents to 50
cents per pound, the average being about 20 cents." The coloring matter of
foreign candies is generally showy, and of a poisonous nature. That of
American manufacture is not of such brilliant and permanent colors, but
more regard is paid to health in the selection of coloring matter. At
confectioners' in London, classes of young ladies are taken and taught the
art of making confectionery. Some candies are made by stretching over a
hook, some must be shaken in a pan over a charcoal fire, and rolled on

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tables with marble tops. I was told at S. & P.'s (a wholesale house) that they
are most busy from August 1st to 20th of December, and from March to
June. They take learners for a week, to see if they are fit for the business,
and if they are, reward them for their time. It takes but a short time to learn
the part done by girls. They pay experienced girls from $3 to $6 a week.
The girls work ten hours a day, and if longer, they are paid extra. Lately
they have kept their girls until ten o'clock at night. It requires taste and
invention to envelop fancy confectionery, but is not very reliable for
constant employment. S. & P. employ ninety girls in busy times. At another
place I was told they will not take Southern orders, for the Southerners will
not buy, and have not the money to pay, if they would. The fancy candies go
through three or four processes, and so the girls must work in the same
room as the men who paint them. The girls sit while at work. R. pays by the
month, and keeps his girls all the year. He says labor is more poorly
compensated in New York, in proportion to the rates of living, than in any
city in the Union. He thinks some girls should go from the cities into
country places, and enter into service. H. says a person of any intelligence
can learn in two or three months to paint candies. He used to employ girls
to put gilding on, paying $2 a week—ten hours a day; but if a girl can paint
well, she can earn $4 or $5 a week. He knows several German girls in the
city that do. The candy flowers, he says, are made by hand, the fruit
moulded. A lady confectioner told me that a woman who ornaments fancy
candies is poorly paid, and it is dirty, sugary kind of work. Yet she
acknowledged that candies must be kept on a clean table and handled by
clean hands—otherwise they would not look well, and consequently not sell
readily. The wives of German manufacturers do most of that kind of work.
A confectioner told me, candy is never made in this country by women, but
it is in England. He said the dust of the powdered sugar and the gases of the
coal render it unhealthy. In large establishments most candy is made by
steam. The making of candy he thought even too laborious for men. The
teeth of candy manufacturers are often decayed from the frequent tasting of
heated sugar. One candy manufacturer writes me: "We employ six girls in
making candy, and do not think the business unhealthy. Wages range from
$1.25 to $4.50 per week—ten hours a day. Men's wages are from $4.50 to
$9. It requires from three to five years for men to learn. Women's part is
learned in one year. The prospect of employment is good for a limited

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number. Fall is the best season, but they are always employed except during
part of the winter. In some branches of the work women excel." At a
manufactory of gum drops and candy rings, I saw a boy who receives $3 a
week for making the rings, and a girl who receives $2.75 for picking gum
drops, i. e., loosening the sugar in which they are incrusted while being
made. They work from 7 A. M. to 6 P. M.

138. Cheesemakers.

A great deal of cheese is made in Central and Northern New York, and
some in Ohio, Vermont, and West Massachusetts. Making cheese is a
chemical operation, and requires experience. It is made in all civilized
countries. I talked with an old gentleman who had been in the cheese
business nearly all his life. He said a farmer's wife is the best help in cheese
making. In making cheese, seven eighths of the work is done by women. A
man usually places the cheese in the press, and removes it when it is dried
sufficiently. The occupation is healthy. Women are paid from $1.75 to $2 a
week and their board. Some people employ men, because they can go to
work on the farm when not making cheese. The business can be learned in
from six weeks to two months. When learning, girls give their work for
instruction, but have their board. Neatness, good health, judgment, and
common education, are desirable for a cheese maker. An individual must be
able to reckon the pounds, weigh the salt, and regulate the temperature of
the milk and curd by the thermometer. The first advice given by a lady who
taught to make cheese was, "Keep your vessels clean." The prospect of
employment in this branch of work is good, for it is difficult to obtain good
cheesemakers. The best seasons are from the 1st of March to the last of
November. The number of hours given by a girl to her work depends on the
contract made—generally eight hours—sometimes ten. In most places
cheesemakers have more leisure than house girls, but some employers
expect them to do housework when not employed about the cheese. Some
farmers hire girls who devote themselves exclusively to cheese making
during the season for it. Some have the afternoon after the cheese is put in
the press, and the jars, &c., are cleaned, until time to milk in the evening.
The morning milking is usually done before breakfast, and the cheese made

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after breakfast. It requires until about two o'clock to get through. When
cheese is put in a press, nothing further is necessary until it is ready to be
removed. It remains in the press twenty-four hours. Most farmers have their
cheese made on Sunday morning as on other days. The girls have Sunday
afternoon or evening, according to contract. Some farmers do not make
their cheese on Sunday, but retain the milk until Monday morning, and
make it into butter. Women are best adapted to the work, and employed
mostly because they can be got cheaper. The majority are Irish women.
They are usually put on a footing by their employers, and eat at the same
table. So little spinning and weaving are done now in the country, that the
female members of farmers' families generally do the milking, unless the
farmers have grown too wealthy and proud to have their wives and
daughters so employed. Some dairymen make, with the aid of their
families, all the cheese they use and sell. Milk should be drawn from a cow
as rapidly as possible and while the cow is eating. One milker should be
employed for every ten cows. Milk is very sensitive. Dairymen will make
more by having the cream remain on the milk than by taking the cream off
for churning, at the rate butter sells this winter (1861). Where the cream is
used, an inexperienced hand would find it more troublesome to make
cheese. Twenty-three million pounds of cheese were exported last year from
the United States. American cheese is, in England, taking the place of
English cheese. A German cheesemonger told me he makes the Limburg
cheese—a preparation which has been known about eight years in this
country. He was putting up some to send to New Orleans. It was very soft,
and I thought the smell very offensive. He gets American cheese of a
Yankee girl, to whom he pays $80 a year. She uses the milk of sixty cows.
She works at it but eight months. During four months of the year but very
little cheese is ever made. The arrangements of some cheesemakers for
preparing the article are very complete.

139. Coffee and Chocolate Packers.

B. S. & W., Philadelphia, employ women in packing parcels of essence of
coffee, spices, vermicelli, &c. They make paper cases, pour the article in
through a funnel and ram it down, then label and pack the cases in boxes,

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which are nailed up ready for delivery. One or two persons obtain a
livelihood by cutting the labels to paste on the boxes. They are paid fifteen
cents a thousand for this work, and are able to support themselves by it. The
women are paid by the piece, and earn from $2 to $6 per week. The work
rooms are airy and comfortable. Females were formerly more employed
than at present to put up coffee; but as coffee is now ground every day at
most factories, and as it is considered best when just ground, less is put up
than formerly. Messrs. L. & B., New York, employ girls to put the articles
in papers, pasting labels on and sealing them. They work by the piece, and
earn from $3 to $7 a week. The odor might be disagreeable to some, but
persons get accustomed to it, and it is quite as healthy as most work. There
are not over one hundred and fifty women so employed in the State of New
York, yet such packing is generally done by women. It is customary to pay
by the package. The girls change their dresses on coming to the workroom
of L. & B. They do not work with the men, but with some boys who fill
boxes with the same articles. L. & B.'s girls have employment all the year.
They never have any difficulty in getting hands. I saw a man who makes up
essence of coffee. A lady was assisting him to put it in papers. At another
factory I was told they pay by the week, from $1.50 to $4, according to the
industry, quickness, and practice of the worker. It is not unhealthy work.
They give employment ten months of the year, but at present have little to
do. It requires but a few weeks to become expert. In some establishments
girls stand or sit, as they please, while at work; in others they are all
required to assume constantly whichever posture the foreman directs. At W.
& Son's two small girls are employed, who each receive $2.50 a week.
There is one factory in Cincinnati, one in St. Louis, and one in Chicago.

140. Cracker Bakers.

At M.'s the young man said fancy crackers could be made by women. In
making soda, oyster, and some other crackers, the dough is kneaded by
machinery. In some establishments the dough is rolled out and conveyed to
the oven by machinery. In a cracker bakery I was told the women might be
employed in packing and selling crackers. It would not require all the time
of one woman to pack for a large bakery. A cracker baker writes us: "We

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employ no women, and do not see that they could work to advantage in our
business." Women could do all the work now done by men in this line, but I
suppose considerable opposition would be experienced, except by ladies
who have sufficient capital to carry on business for themselves.

141. Fancy Confectionery.

Most confectioners sell, in addition to their fancy candies, imported fruits;
and a few keep cakes. Some also keep fruits preserved in brandy or their
own juice; and some keep in addition pickles, oysters, sardines, &c. Some
confectioners merely make sweetmeats—some sell them, and some both
make and sell. In cities, confectioners usually furnish the refreshments for
both public and private entertainments. A manufacturer of confectioneries
in New York told me that in busy times he employs fifteen girls; but at that
time (January, 1861) only half as many, for they have no Southern orders—
the people in the South are doing without candies. The part done by girls
requires no special training. He pays girls for their labor from the first. They
pack, pick gums, envelop in fancy papers, fill boxes, &c. He pays $3 a
week for those that have some experience, and keeps them ten hours a day.
He gives the making and painting of fancy candies out to those that have
families, and who do it at home. W., of Philadelphia, pays his girls, eight in
number, $1.50 a week for the first two or three weeks, then from $3 to $4.
Making common candy is said to be too hard for women. They assist in the
finishing of fine candies, as rolling and covering chocolate nuts. They put
the fancy candies in French envelopes, and cut the silvered or gilt paper that
gives the finish. They can sit or stand as they please while at work, but
while enveloping mostly sit. They work ten hours. It is rather a light
business. M. employs fifty women in putting up and packing candies. He
pays them, from the time they begin, $2 a week. They learn in two or three
months. He pays then from $4 to $5 a week. A lady told me she was paid in
one establishment $6 a month and board. A girl in a confectionery told me
the prices usually paid girls are $7 or $8 a month, with board and washing,
and the girl is expected to keep the accounts. A lady in another store said
summer is the poorest season for confectioneries, as people do not like to
eat candies, because it makes them thirsty; but in those confectioneries

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where soda water and lager beer are kept, there is more or less custom
during the summer. They keep open till ten o'clock at night, and all day
Sunday. Sunday is their most profitable day. She knows a girl that is paid $5
a month in the Bowery, with her board, or $7 without. To be kind and
obliging, and have the faculty of pleasing the little folks, are the best
qualifications for the business. Prices paid depend on the responsibility of
the employed. Some that keep the books receive $5 a week without board,
most others receive $1.50 or $1.75 per week and board. Judgment must be
used in the selection of a stand. A lady who keeps a small confectionery and
fruit store in Williamsburg, says she does not make much on cakes and
bread, only half a cent on a loaf of bread. She says it is best not to trust any
one for pay—that children often come and say they want so and so, their
mother says she will pay on Saturday; but Saturday comes, and no pay; and
if they go for the money, the parents will say, "Come again," and put it off
from time to time, until they become discouraged, and give it up altogether.
M—s, French confectionery and chocolate cream manufacturers, take
learners at the proper season, which commences in August. They employ
some girls to paint fancy candies. H. says one must commence at the very
first step, and gradually advance—that to learn the business requires a long
time. He pays four girls $5 or $6 a month each, and gives them their board,
for selling confectioneries and waiting in his saloon. At S——'s
confectionery I was told that the small fine candies are made by steam.
They are made in pans, which are shaken back and forth over fires, the gas
of which is very injurious, and cannot be carried off by flues. Their girls
make so much noise, laughing and talking with the men, and waste so much
time, that they are required to work on the first floor, the same as the store.
They are paid from $1.50 to $2 a week. They are paid by the week, because
they do their work better than if paid by the quantity; besides, it is less
troublesome. They are paid for overwork (regular hours being ten), and
some earn as much in that way as by regular wages. The girls pick gums,
separate gum drops, put candy in boxes, &c. C. employs girls to paint, put
up candies, and attend store, and pays $1.50 and $2 a week. Most of the
painting is done by French and German men, who are paid from $10 to $12
a week. It requires a long time to acquire taste and experience; one, in fact,
can be always improving. C. thinks girls are not likely to find constant
employment in the kind of work he gives to females. A French confectioner

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told me he had employed a woman to make chocolate cream, paying $3 a
week for ten hours a day, and could employ her all the year, as the demand
for chocolate cream is very great. S. employed one girl to sell candy, paying
$5 a week. She was at the store at 7.30 A. M., and remained till 6 P. M. in
winter and 8 P. M. in summer. She did not keep the books, but washed the
jars and case, and swept back of the counter, and dusted several times a day.
Talked with a girl who stood in a confectionery store on Broadway. She
knew a girl on Chatham street who received $12 a month and her board.
She herself received $9 a month and her board, but not her washing. The
proprietor told her she must sew for his family, when not waiting on
customers. It seems that it is not an uncommon requisition. They have but
few customers until about 11 o'clock, and he expected her to accomplish
more sewing than a sempstress who gives all her time to it. The young lady
is in the store by 7 o'clock in the morning, and remains until 11 o'clock at
night. Any one wishing to commence a confectionery can learn from the
wholesale dealer of whom she purchases how to regulate the prices of
sweetmeats. Mrs. W. wants a girl to wait in her saloon, will give $8 a
month, with her board and washing. She would be required to sew, when
not waiting on customers, and would have to wash the jars and cases, keep
the counter clean, and dust and arrange the articles in the window every
morning. She would have to be in the store at seven, and remain until
twelve (seventeen hours). In large confectioneries girls stand while picking
gums used in making gum drops. They are mostly made in summer. There
is now (December) a great demand for girls, as there always is about the
holidays. Those now at work are kept three hours over time—from seven to
ten—and paid extra. The chemicals used in making some confectioneries
are unhealthy, but women have nothing to do with that, except in painting
candy toys. A confectioner in Boston, who employs four American girls in
attending store and making goods, writes: "We consider the occupation very
healthy, never having had a case of sickness with girls while working at this
business. Some are paid $3 and $4 per week, working ten hours a day;
others by the quantity, averaging $1 per day. Male labor is paid for,
according to the knowledge of the business, from $6 to $15. Girls could not
do the work, and the work that women do it would not pay to have done by
male labor. It requires a long time and a great deal of practice to learn the
whole business, but that part done by women is learned in a few weeks.

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They are paid something while learning. Honesty, industry, and a good
education are the most desirable qualifications. Spring and fall are our most
busy seasons. In midwinter we do not have many at work. Retail stores
require most help in summer. New York requires most hands, especially
women; but the demands are now very small, the trouble at the South being
the main cause. They are not strong enough to do some parts of the work.
The large towns are best for our business." A lady in a fancy confectionery
on Broadway told me she receives $8 a month and her board, and is paid by
the month. She thinks many diseases are brought on women by having to
stand so much, as they do in confectioneries, bakeries, and dry-good stores.
Women that have stood in any kind of a store before, and have business
qualifications, are paid while learning. There is never any difficulty about
obtaining qualified hands. She finds the work very laborious, and
complained of having to be in the confectionery and saloon from seven in
the morning until twelve at night. In some saloons the attendants are up
until 1 o'clock (eighteen hours!), and are on their feet most of the time. A
confectioner in Concord, N. H., writes: "We employ from five to ten girls
(because we find it most profitable) for helping make, rolling up, and
packing lozenges and pipe candy. Also for standing in the confectionery.
The work is very healthy. We pay about sixty-seven cents per day, and they
work from six to ten hours. No man employed, except one who takes
charge. There is a prospect for employment so long as children cry for
lozenges. The girls are American, and work at all seasons. They are as well
paid, according to the cost of living, as mechanics in this place. Women are
superior to men in rolling up and packing lozenges. They pay for board
$1.75 per week."

142. Fish Women.

In the United States, where every one has a right to fish in the rivers and
lakes, there is a fair opening for those in this line of business. But it is only
in the spring and fall that fish are much eaten. They are not considered
healthy in the warm weather of summer. A pound of fish is said to be in
nutritive power equal to eight pounds of potatoes. In the United States,
according to the census report of 1850, there were engaged in fisheries

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20,704 males and 429 females. The fishwomen of Philadelphia have long
engaged in the selling of shad, and are to be seen in great numbers on the
streets of the city, and even when not seen are likely to be heard crying fish.
At one time they had a large market devoted exclusively to the sale of fish,
but it became a nuisance, and the city authorities had it torn down; yet the
women, possessed of strong local association, were not to be so routed.
They are still seen sitting before their tables of fish in the neighborhood of
where the market stood. Much money has been realized by the fishwomen,
some of whom are said to own property of considerable value. What a
lesson to patient industry! "From the time of Louis XIV. to the present, fish
have been sold in Paris exclusively by women. They are now remarkable
for the urbanity of their language and propriety of their conduct, having
risen high in the scale of respectability during the last half century." "On the
coasts of the department of Somme there are certain fish, the shrimps and
'vers marius,' which are exclusively reserved to the young girls and
widows." On the coast of Great Britain thousands of women are employed
in the herring, cod, mackerel, lobster, turbot, and pilchard fisheries. Women
and children rub salt on the fish to be cured, with the hand. When cured,
women pile them in stacks from four to five feet high, and as wide. Women
are paid, at Newlyn, for this labor, 3d. an hour, and every sixth hour receive
a glass of brandy and a piece of bread. Many are also employed in obtaining
oysters and canning them; and on the return of whaling vessels, numbers of
women assist in preparing the cargoes for market. In New York, fish are
mostly sold by men, who drive about in a little wagon containing fish, and
blow a horn, crying out now and then the kind of fish they have for sale.

143. Macaroni.

Macaroni is moulded and dried. Girls then pick out the whole sticks, and
put them in boxes. The broken pieces are all thrown together in a barrel,
then ground and moulded over. It is very easy work, and requires no
learning. They are paid from $2 to $3.50 a week, working ten hours a day.
The girls I saw, stood while at work.

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144. Maple Sugar.

The cheapness of sugar made from sugar cane has almost annihilated the
existence of maple sugar, except as a sweetmeat. The peculiar flavor of
maple molasses and sugar makes them much loved by some people. The
trees are tapped early in the spring, when the sap first rises. After sufficient
water is collected, it is put on and boiled until of the consistence required. It
is slow work and pays poorly, but can be performed by women capable of
the heavy labor involved in carrying, lifting kettles, and stirring.

145. Market Women.

Mrs. Childs says, in her "History of Women," "On the seacoast of Borneo
fleets of boats may be seen laden with provisions brought to market by
women, who are screened from the sun by huge bamboo hats. In Egyptian
cities, the country girls, closely veiled, are frequently employed in selling
melons, pomegranates, eggs, poultry, &c." In the southern countries of
Europe it is common to see women riding to market on donkeys, laden with
marketing. We learn from "London Labor and London Poor," that there are
2,000 persons employed in the sale of greenstuff in the streets of London, as
water-cresses, chickweed, groundsel, turf, and plantain. The cresses are
eaten by people; the other articles are sold for birds. We may divide market
women into two classes—those that raise or have raised the products they
sell, and those that buy to sell again. The articles of the first are generally
genuine and of fair price. Vegetables, poultry, eggs, and butter, with fruit,
both green and dried, are carried to market, and there the market women,
placing them on stalls or retaining them in their wagons, wait for
purchasers. This class mostly supply the markets of towns and villages.
Their articles are usually fresh and wholesome. There are thirteen markets
in New York city where everything is obtained at the second or third
remove from the producer. It is estimated that there are 1,300 huckster
women attending the New York markets. The members of some families are
engaged in the sale of different articles: one will sell eggs; another,
vegetables; another, poultry, &c. It is said that better meat and vegetables
are brought to Philadelphia than to New York markets. In New York there is

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a larger population requiring articles of a cheap kind. We think market
women, considering their habits and modes of living, probably do as well in
a pecuniary way as any other class of women. Their wants are few, their
habits simple, and their occupation—though an exposed one—healthy. The
variety of seeing new faces, and chatting with those similarly employed,
yield more comfort and content than most women's work. They take in but
a few pennies at a time, yet have their regular customers, and, in prosperous
seasons, many besides. I will give an extract from my diary of a visit made
to several of the New York markets: "I saw some women selling fruit;
some, vegetables; and some, tripe and sausage. I judge, from the appearance
of most dealers, it is not unhealthy. Most of the women were far advanced
in life, particularly those who sold vegetables. They all complain that they
do not sell so much since the commencement of the hard times. How is it?
Do people buy less, and so eat less? or is less wasted in their kitchens? or
are some unable to buy meat and vegetables at all? Here I would state the
remark of a druggist: that, as times are hard, people do not indulge in so
much rich food, nor in a surplus of it; consequently there is less sickness,
and so little medicine sold that the druggists are discouraged. This druggist
has since sold out, and moved to the country. Most of the market women
looked to be Irish. One strong Irish woman told me that American women
cannot bear the exposure in cold weather, and rent their stalls through the
winter to men. They make their appearance in March with the flowers and
early fruit. Butter is sold exclusively by men in Washington market, New
York, and is more profitable than anything else. There is considerable
difference in the class of custom in the different markets in New York; but
the poor are usually more in number than the rich—so the markets
frequented by them may receive as great a profit as where a smaller number
of better customers attend. Some women regulate their sales to have a
percentage, but many sell for what they can get, without regard to the
amount of profit. I find those selling vegetables, buy of farmers who come
early, and leave a supply for each seller in case she is not there. Any
vegetables they may have left are locked up in boxes, or barrels, or covered
over and left on the bench. The gates of the market house are closed and
locked up at one o'clock every day except Saturday, with the exception of
Washington and Fulton markets, which are open all day, and the first
mentioned all night. Watchmen are about the markets at all hours of the day

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and night, and in some markets an extra fee is paid by the sellers to secure
attention to their stalls. At two o'clock in the morning, Washington market is
fully lighted, and the farmers begin to arrive to sell to grocers. The grocers
usually buy from four to five in summer, and from four to six in winter.
Boarding-house keepers mostly buy from seven to nine o'clock. Families
buy during any of these hours, or later. All the markets are open by half past
three. Fulton market is rather warmer than the others because of the stoves
and ranges used for making coffee, cooking oysters, &c. Ladies do not
come to market so much in winter as in spring and summer. I think the
vocation of market selling must be very healthy, when the venders are
comfortably clad, and have stoves, as many of them do. Market women live
to a great age. Vegetables injured by frost or long keeping are sold at a
lower price. As a general thing, less is sold in market during January and
February, than any other months. In spring time the market presents the
most inviting appearance, for the stalls are then freshly painted, and flowers
and fruit exhibited to advantage on them. Mrs. B. told me that a woman
who sold flowers in Fulton market had made a fortune at it. Some of these
sellers let other women have flowers and fruit to take over the city to sell,
and reap a profit in that way. One old lady told me she always made 12½
cents profit on her goods, they being pocket-knives, combs, &c. The stalls
are sold or rented. One woman told me she paid 12½ cents a day for her
stall; another, 9 cents; and this must be paid for even on days when they are
absent from market. Another woman told me that she got a permit for the
use of a stall in Washington market when it was first built, and not long
since she sold it for $1,500, and the owner pays a tax of $2 a week besides.
She paid $200 for the stall at which she stood in Fulton market, and pays a
rent of 75 cents a week. She makes a living by selling smoked salt fish. The
processes through which produce must pass from the producer to reach the
consumer, might be avoided by permitting farmers to remain longer in the
city, and furnishing them with a place for their teams and produce; but now
they must all leave by ten o'clock, and can scarcely feel that they have a
place to put anything down while they are in the city. In England are
women who shell peas and beans at so much a quart. I have seen books,
spectacles, canes, pocket-books, caps, shoes, hose, china, and even old
clothes for sale on the streets, and around or in the market-houses of
Philadelphia and New York.

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146. Meat Sellers.

In markets and in meat shops of the United States, women may occasionally
be seen selling meat. They are generally the wives or the daughters of
butchers. They no doubt assist in cleaning tripe, and making sausage and
souse. On the streets of London are nearly one thousand sellers of dogs' and
cats' meat. Most of them are men. This meat is the flesh of old worn out
horses, which are bought, killed, cut up, boiled, and sold by those who
make it a business. Mrs. M. told me of a woman that sells meat in the New
York market. She has made a fortune by it. She stands in market, and sells,
and orders her hired men to cut it up as desired. Mr. W. told me that women
are employed at the pork houses in Louisville, in putting up hogs' feet, to
send to New Orleans. Less meat is sold in summer than winter. I have been
told that curing meat is too heavy work for women, on account of the
lifting. Besides, they would get wet from the brine used; but some German
and English women do pickle meat, and some even buy and sell stock. The
late census of Great Britain reports twenty-six thousand butcheresses.

147. Milk Dealers.

Kindness to animals always indicates something good in the heart. Life, in
its every form, should be precious to us. Cows yield much less milk, and of
an inferior quality, on the eastern than western continent. In Canada and
some countries of Europe, the milk of goats is sold, and considerably used.
In some parts of Rome it is customary for dairymen to drive their cows in
every morning, and around to the houses of their customers, when the
milkman draws from the cow into the vessel the desired quantity. In
Belgium it is not uncommon to see milkmaids following their little wagons,
containing vessels of milk, and drawn by dogs. Mayhew stated, in 1852,
that in St. James's Park, London, eight cows were kept in summer to supply
warm milk to purchasers; four in winter, and the number of street women
engaged in the sale of curds, was one hundred. A lady called with me in a
milk depot. The man has his milk brought in on the cars. Milkmen pay their
women from $6 to $7 a month. They begin to milk about five in the

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morning, and the same hour in the afternoon, so that it may cool before
being placed in the cans. Those hired to milk do house work or kitchen
work in the intervals. When milking is done in the afternoon, the men that
work on the farm, and the proprietor himself, assist. In some places where
butter is made for market, the churning is done by horses and dogs. A milk
dealer told me he sold to those who wished to sell again at cost price, four
cents a quart; to other customers his price is six cents. At one depot,
Williamsburg, the dealer was counting over an immense pile of pennies. His
milk comes from New Jersey, seventy miles from New York. He crosses
two rivers every night at twelve o'clock, to receive his milk at the Jersey
depot. He sells at six cents a quart. To those who buy to sell again, his price
is five cents a quart. He told me a separate freight agent is employed on
some trains to take charge of the milk sent on the cars. Milk does not often
sour while being brought in. Cream is brought in cans placed in large tubs
of ice. He pays for freight, forty cents a can. Cream usually sells at twenty-
five cents per quart. He sells twice as much milk in summer as in winter—
he supposes, because it sours so easily. At shops, milk is usually sold at five
cents; when delivered, at six cents. Milk is less rich in winter than summer.
A milkman told me that in dairies in and near the city, men mostly milk. He
mentioned one quite near a distillery. Women that take milk about in
buckets to sell, have a cow of their own, and feed her on swill from the
distillery, and slops from kitchens. The milk they sell is not healthy. Some
of them buy a little good milk and mix with theirs. If a dairy woman's time
is not entirely occupied with her business, she might in some places find it
profitable to have an ice house, and send ice around with the same horse,
wagon, and driver used for the sale of milk. Borden's condensed milk is
boiled at a temperature of 112°, I think, and prepared in Connecticut. The
American Solidified Milk Company, in New York, employ some girls in
rolling, packing, and labelling. The superintendent writes: "The
employment is healthy. Women receive from $7 to $8 per month, and their
board. They spend twelve hours per day, including meal times, in the
establishment. An intelligent person may learn in a week. There is a
prospect of more being employed. All the girls we employ are Americans,
except one. It is a very comfortable occupation. I find little difference
between male and female labor. When I have hired men or youths, I have
found them to be more habitually attentive, and less irritable; but women

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are usually neater. The women all board at a house, subject to the control of
the Company. The price is $2.25 per week, washing included, and is paid
for by the Company. The character of the house is unexceptionable, and the
table is much better provided than that of most farmers living here."

148. Mince Meat and Apple Butter.

The preparation of mince meat might be performed by women. And it might
be sold by them in stores where poultry, eggs, and butter are disposed of, or
in clean, well-kept groceries. With a machine for cutting the meat, and
another for paring the apples, it could be easily accomplished. Apple butter
is an article that meets with ready sale in market. People that are very
particular about their food only buy of those they know to be cleanly in
their cooking. Stewing apple butter is laborious work. If a farmer has a
cider press and an apple parer, much labor is saved in preparing the
materials. In some places, apple butter is kept for sale in groceries, and in
establishments for the sale of the products of the dairy. The apples that are
partly decayed, and those picked off the ground, furnish an abundance from
large orchards. And from orchards not accessible to market where defective
fruit can be sold, there will be no want of a supply. It is sold by the pint or
quart, or put up in jars holding more.

149. Mustard Packers.

Most of the mustard in this country has been imported, but some planters
are now turning their time and attention to it. Mustard is cultivated to some
extent for the oil pressed from its seed. Some factories exist in the United
States. I have heard of a man in New York that used to be engaged
extensively in grinding mustard with vinegar, and employed women to put
it in jars, paying $3 a week. In some dry mustard factories women are
employed to put the mustard in papers. A manufacturer of mustard writes:
"Women are employed at some large establishments. The business is severe
on persons with weak lungs, as a large quantity of steam or dust arises from
packing. The work is paid for by the quantity, not the day. Women of good
judgment would soon become mistresses of their work—in six months they

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would become good workwomen. They would probably spoil as much as
their wages were worth for the first few days. When cholera and yellow
fever are about, is the best time for the sale of mustard. Ten hours is the
usual time for work, but in busy seasons the hands work longer."

150. Oyster Sellers.

I called on a woman who makes a living for herself and five little children
by selling oysters. She sells most about tea time, and on until twelve
o'clock. She thinks oysters are wholesome all the year. Physicians
recommend them for their patients, and many can eat them when they
cannot eat anything else. Of course a real oyster saloon can only be kept in
places where fresh oysters can be had. Oysters are rather hard for a woman
to open. In summer nothing is done. The room, vender, and oysters should
be clean, to draw decent customers. It pays well; but too often, in small
concerns, the profits are derived from the sale of liquor. At a little oyster
shop the woman told me she barely made a living. She keeps boys to open
the oysters. She supplies families with fresh oysters, and when she receives
an order, prepares them for families and sends them to the house.

151. Pie Bakers.

"Many of the young Swabian girls of thirteen or fourteen years old are sent
to Stuttgart to acquire music, or other branches of education, among which,
household duties are generally included. A matron, who keeps a large
establishment there, gives the instruction, which they voluntarily seek. They
may often be seen returning from the bakeries, with a tray full of cakes and
pies of their own making; and sometimes young gentlemen, for the sake of
fun, stop them to buy samples of their cookery." The foundation of Miss
Leslie's culinary knowledge was laid at a school of cookery in Philadelphia.
In England, women make pastry for confectioneries. At the W. pie bakery I
was told they employ women to prepare the fruit. They used to employ
them to roll the dough; but they are not such fast workers as men. One man
remarked, the shoulders ache from rolling by the time evening comes. The
women are paid fifty cents a day, and board themselves. One woman boards

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with them, and receives $1.50 a week, with her board. M. & Co. pay their
women five cents an hour, for preparing the fruit and making pies. They sell
most to retail stores and hotels—consequently sell most in the spring and
fall, when the largest number of strangers are in the city. They keep three
wagons running part of the time, which start at six in summer, and, in busy
seasons, sometimes do not get in to remain till twelve at night. When it
rains or snows they do not sell so much, as those who sell at stands on the
street are not out. The drivers come back several times during the day for
pies, when very busy, and they mention how many are ordered. So the
manager knows how many to have baked. They always sell most on
Saturday, and I think sell least on Wednesdays and Thursdays. When the
women work over ten hours, they are paid extra at the same rate, five cents
an hour. C. and wife pay their best woman $9 a month with board and
washing. It is her duty to roll out pastry, put the fruit in, and put the covers
on. They employ some girls for $6 a month, to wash dishes, cook fruit, chop
apples, pick dried fruit, &c. The work requires more strength than skill.
There are only four large pie bakeries in New York. Madame L., who sells
French pastry and confectionery, says very few women are employed in
Paris, in making pastry, except for families. It requires too much strength
and too long labor, to do so for a saloon. The saloons are usually open until
twelve o'clock at night. At a bread bakery an attendant told me she prepares
the fruit for pies, but the bakers prepare the crust, make and bake them. She
says their men do that in the morning, when not otherwise employed, and it
would not pay to have a woman for that purpose alone. Mrs. H. employs
fifteen women. She pays $3.50 a month, with board and lodging, to those
that slice apples and carry pies to and from the oven. Men place them in the
oven and take them out. She pays $6.50 to those that roll out pastry and
wash dishes, &c. She has three thousand pies made sometimes in one day. It
requires more care to bake pies than bread. At another pie bakery, the lady
told me she has the fruit prepared for pies in her kitchen and taken to the
bakehouse, where they are made up by men, to save the women from
working where the men are. She pays a woman for preparing fruit $5 a
month and her board. In a pie bakery in New York, one of the attendants
said in the old country women learn to bake pies and cakes for
confectioners. They pay £30 for instruction, and spend two years'
apprenticeship. They learn the whole process, including the stewing of fruit

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and preparing mince meat. In this country that is followed as a separate
branch, and mostly done by women for bakers. She said in the bakery
where she stood, girls were required, not only to wait on customers, but
wash the counters, shelves, and windows of the store. The other attendant
told me she found the smell of the pastry, and being so constantly on her
feet, very injurious. They each receive $8 a month, and their board and
washing. To succeed, a person should be quick in her motions and
calculations, and a good judge of money. They are in the shop fifteen hours.
In some bakeries the girls spend eighteen hours in the shop. The time could
be shortened, if all the establishments of the kind would unite and make
regulations to that effect; but it could not be done by one or two stores on
account of the competition in the business. Such a store would lose its
patronage. The majority of girls board with the bakers' families, on account
of rising early to be in store. Summer is the poorest season on Broadway, as
most of their customers are out of the city at that season; but in localities
where the working classes are supplied, the summer is the best season, as
most of them do not go to the expense of making up a fire to bake their
bread and pastry.

152. Picklers of Oysters.

An oysterwoman told me that girls and women are employed at most places
where oysters are put in cans to send away. They are paid by the gallon for
opening the shells; and near New Haven, some girls make $4 a day. On the
Great South Bay, they do not earn so much, as the oysters are smaller and
rougher. It requires considerable practice to become expert, but not much
physical strength. The business is considered healthy, and women are paid
at the same rate as men. Miss B. told me that at Fair Haven some women
are paid for opening oysters two and a half cents a quart.

153. Poulterers.

Much attention has been paid in this country, during the last ten years, to
the breeding and feeding of poultry. All that read this will remember the hen
fever that spread through our country a few years ago. Chinese chickens

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sold at from $40 to $100 a pair; and the usual price of one egg for a time
was $5. The saving of feathers off poultry will be found profitable, for they
bring a high price and ready sale. Poultry are best disposed of in large
quantities at hotels, steamboats, and restaurants. Houses for poultry should
be warm and tightly made. When there is a variety of poultry, each kind
should be separately lodged. Plenty of space, water accessible, gravel,
living plants and loose soil are the principal things to render poultry
comfortable. The worms and insects obtained from the loose soil furnish
them animal food, and sand or gravel is necessary to promote digestion. It is
best not to draw poultry when preparing it for market, as it keeps longer
when the air is excluded. In winter some farmers let their poultry freeze,
and pack them in boxes of dry straw, and send them to market. They will
keep so for two or three months. I was told of an old lady, back of New
Albany, Ia., that has made several thousand dollars by the sale of poultry.
The egg trade is a very extensive one. It requires a knowledge of the state of
the market, and promptness in supplying its demand at the right time.
Several establishments in Cincinnati entered largely into the business some
years ago, and, we suppose, still continue it. Eggs are often shipped from
Cincinnati to New Orleans and New York. "In France and England
6,000,000 eggs are used annually in preparing leather for gloves." In New
York the poultry sold in market is mostly purchased from the wholesale
commission merchants, who have stands in some parts of the market, or
stores near the market. Poultry is there sold by the pound: chickens, 9 and
10 cents, and turkeys from 10 to 12 cents. It requires experience to learn the
quality of poultry, but those in the business can judge of it by seeing the
poultry when alive. The best time for selling is through the fall up to
February. Some market women sell poultry in winter, and flowers in
summer. Those who engage in raising poultry, could unite with it the raising
of rabbits, pigeons, &c. About a hundred persons (mostly women) are
employed in a henery near Paris, where thousands of chickens are annually
hatched out by keeping eggs in rooms, heated by steam to a uniform
temperature.

154. Restaurant Keepers.

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In London and Paris, young and pretty women are employed in the best
class of tobacco stores and in restaurants. This should not be so on account
of the number, and often the character, of the men that resort to these shops.
Indeed, we think it best not to employ them in any stores that men only
frequent. Besides, the unseasonable hours that restaurants are kept open,
make it objectionable for women. They are often not closed until midnight
or after. In Great Britain girls and women are frequently employed as bar
maids at inns.

155. Sealed Provisions, Pickles, and Sauces.

The plan is now almost universally adopted in the United States, of putting
up fruit and vegetables in cans from which the air is excluded. It is one of
the greatest inventions of the age for housekeepers. It saves labor and
expense; and if well put up, the fruit and vegetables are as fresh and taste as
natural as we have them in the growing season. Quite a number of large
houses are engaged in the business in New York, and a few in Philadelphia.
E. Philadelphia employs women to put pickles and preserved fruit in jars,
sealing and labelling them. They can earn from $2.50 to $3 a week. They sit
while at work. The season begins in July, and is over in October. K. & Co.,
New York, employ about a hundred females during the fruit season. The
occupation consists in preparing the articles to be preserved; that is, peeling,
seeding, washing, &c., labelling bottles, and painting cans. Those they
employ are mostly Irish, and not capable of any very elevated position of
labor. The fruit season lasts six months, after which only about thirty remain
the rest of the year. The hours of labor are ten, and the compensation from
$2.50 to $3 per week. In another establishment they employ only small
girls, to whom they pay $2 per week, and occasionally $2.50. Mrs. Dall
suggests that farmers' daughters put up candied fruits like those imported
from France, which bear a good price and yield a handsome profit. Some
women engage in making pickles on their own responsibility. Owners of
gardens not convenient to market would find it profitable to put up fruits
and vegetables, and to make pickles and sauces. The spices they would have
to purchase; but if they had an orchard, they could make good vinegar. They
could either sell the articles in the nearest large city, or pay a commission

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for the sale of them. Mr. D., in one of the New York markets, employs
women for putting pickles in jars—gives $8 a month and board. The
number of hours they are employed depends on the quantity of work they
have on hand. B., New York, employs for six months from six to eight
women; for four months, some twenty-five; and the remaining two months,
from ninety to one hundred and twenty-five. B. has always had his work
done in the city, but contemplates having it done hereafter in the country, as
the articles will then be on the ground, and save the trouble of
transportation. They send South. He thinks the South must for a long time
be dependent on the North for pickles. They even furnish some of the pickle
houses in Baltimore. They fear they will lose much because they have now
no demand for pickles from the South, and they are likely to spoil by
keeping. They are most busy in summer and fall. They keep some steady
hands all the year. They find it difficult to get good hands, and pay learners
from the first. Many girls go from New York in the summer, to the country,
to put up pickles, gather berries, and weed gardens; and it pays them pretty
well. B. pays his women fifty cents a day of ten hours. It is not unhealthy,
and requires but a little time to learn. In this, as in most other mechanical
work, practice makes perfect; consequently, experienced hands receive the
preference. At most places men attend to fruit while it is being cooked. The
preserving is mostly done in large kettles, around which pass pipes
containing steam, encased by larger vessels. Lifting the kettles would be too
heavy for women, when they contain, as in some cases, thirty-five gallons
of fruit. And the steam used would require some one that knew a little of
such matters, yet a smart woman could soon learn. M. & M. have their
work done in the house, paying from $2.25 to $4. They can always get
hands. W. & P. have their pickles, preserves, and sauces put up in the
country. Their girls get from $3 to $6 a week. They employ two hundred
girls, and take most of them from the city in the busy season from June to
October. G. pays $3 a week. Any one that can use their hands can do it, and
become expert in two or three months. Another pickler pays $2 per week.
His wife does most of the work. Mrs. M. lives near Washington market. She
employs some women to preserve, and some to put up pickles. Most of her
preserves are put up by an old lady who does it at her own home. She pays
her women from $2.50 to $4 a week. It requires long experience to become
proficient. Nearly all the work is done in her house, and of course is done

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only in the summer. Her custom is mostly confined to the city. If she is
preserving a very large quantity of fruit, she has a man to stir it. He spends
most of his time taking purchased articles home. She uses only the best
articles. She can always get enough hands. An extensive pickle
manufacturer writes: "I employ women in packing pickles and all goods of
the kind into glass—labelling, corking, making jellies, jams, &c., packing,
labelling catsups, bottling syrups, &c. Women are so employed wherever
these goods are manufactured. The employment is healthy—so much so
that I have known invalids gain their health. I pay $3 per week—men $6 to
$10; all work ten hours a day. Women can learn in from three to twelve
months. Some learners receive $2, and some $2.50 per week. Quickness,
neatness, and skill are required. Summer and fall are the busy seasons. The
females are mostly young Irish, born in the United States. Women are
superior in handiness, inferior in strength." A gentleman in the business
writes from Newburyport: "I employ usually from eight to ten women. I
pay eight cents per hour, and they work from four to seven hours. The men's
work is worth more than women's, and entirely different from it. The
prospect for this kind of work is good. There is no work in winter or early
spring. Seaports are the best localities for the business. My women pay
from $1.50 to $1.75 for respectable board."

156. Sugar Makers.

When the part of the sugar cane to be pressed, is cut, it is tied in bundles
and drawn to the mill in wagons. It is deposited in heaps outside, and negro
girls carry the bundles on their heads to the mill door. After the cane has
been subjected to pressure by cylinders, to obtain the juice, it falls through
an opening in the mill walls, and is carried off by negro women and spread
in the sun, to dry for fuel. The work in sugar mills is very warm and heavy.
The work in sugar refineries is very laborious, and requires the workers to
be subjected to great heat. Several refiners have informed me that the
business does not admit of the employment of women in any department.
The business is said to be very trying on the constitution, and produces an
unhealthy increase of flesh. It is said to be good for consumptives on
account of the great nutriment in sugar. A sugar refiner died not long ago,

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whose salary received from the company amounted, I was told, to $25,000
per annum. I have thought there is one part of the work a woman might do
—it is enveloping the sugar in paper cases. At a sugar refinery a man told
us, some women are employed to make bags for containing char, i. e., burnt
bones, and earn several dollars a week. The sewing is done by hand;
making the bags requires but a short time, though it is heavy work. Most
refiners buy theirs at bag factories, or have their men to make them.

157. Tea Packers.

A boy fitting himself to be a tea broker told me, the business is best in the
spring, fall, and winter. The quality of tea is principally decided by smelling
—which is done before it is moistened, by blowing on it with the breath and
then putting it to the nostrils. Boiling water is then poured on it, and tasted.
The boy said, it is a paying business. It is not healthy on account of the dust
inhaled. It does not take more than a year to learn to judge of the quality of
kinds of tea. Boys learning the business do not live long. They are paid $2,
and $2.50 a week. In busy seasons, they sometimes work as late as nine
o'clock. There are not many tea packers in the city, and one told me, most of
them cannot make a living. We called on Mr. N., a teapacker, who charges
for putting tea out of the large boxes, in which it is imported, into canisters
and packages, according to the way in which it is put up; whether in paper
covers, or canisters of lead or tin. The facing or labelling varies some. He
says, packing could be done by girls. He employs men and boys, paying the
boys from $2 to $4 a week. There are only two tea packing establishments
in New York, and not more than one in any other large city. It is not at all
unhealthy. Packing is done most in spring and fall. Mr. N. thinks it would
be best to have the girls work in separate apartments from the men. He
complains of the want of promptness in girls. A tea packer of Boston writes:
"I employ from six to ten girls to cover and line boxes, &c. They are
American, of Irish descent. There is nothing in the business, that the girls
do, that can be considered unhealthy. Wages run from $2.50 to $3 per week.
It does not take a long time to learn, and full wages are paid while learning.
I employ my help the year round, though less hours are used for a day's
work during the winter. Ten is the number of working hours during the

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summer, spring, and autumn; and eight, during the winter months." In
London, a number of men and women, principally women, buy exhausted
tea leaves of the female servants and sell them at establishments, where
they are dried, and a fresh green color given them by a copper preparation.
They are sold for new tea. The quantity so renewed is thought to amount to
78,000 lbs. annually. The Chinese women assist in gathering tea leaves and
drying them, but men do the packing.

158. Vermicelli.

Vermicelli is moulded by passing through a machine and being laid on
frames until the next day to partially dry. Then girls cut it in short pieces,
and twist it. The twisting requires a little art acquired by practice. They
receive from $2 to $3.50 a week. It is cruel for females to be kept on their
feet all day while at work, when they might sit. At a factory I saw a French
lady, the wife of the proprietor, cutting and twisting vermicelli. A young
Frenchman was at work, who told us he was paid 75 cents a day; but
women, he said, would not be paid as much, because he had to attend to the
machinery. The lady sat, as girls in factories should do if they wish.

159. Vinegar.

A plant is now grown from which vinegar is made. "In addition to the
consumption of vinegar in culinary uses and the preparation of preserved
food, it is indispensable in several branches of manufacture, as in the
dressing of morocco leather, and in dye and print works." The labor of
making vinegar is too hard and heavy for women. The handling of barrels,
changing of liquids, and constant exposure to heat and cold, without
cessation of labor, are too great for the female frame to sustain. The workers
often pass from a temperature varying from 92° to 105°, to one of extreme
coldness." A Boston vinegar manufacturer, writes: "Women are never
employed in making vinegar in large quantities. They are not adapted to the
occupation. It does not agree with some constitutions. It requires but a short
time to learn the business. The prospect for future employment is poor."

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Some women make vinegar from parings of fruit, tea leaves, &c., for family
use.

160. Yeast.

A manufacturer of yeast powders writes: "There is but a small part of the
work that women can do. It requires the strong, muscular arm of a man to
do most of it." We know women are sometimes employed for putting up the
powders, and are paid by the number of packages.

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TEXTILE MANUFACTURES.

161. Cotton Manufacturers.

Only so far back as 1789, doubts were entertained whether cotton could be
cultivated in the United States, while now the amount of calicoes annually
produced in the United States is supposed to equal twenty millions of yards.
"The number of females employed in the various factories of Lowell, in
which textile fabrics are produced, will exceed 12,000. Those engaged in
weaving can earn, upon an average, from $2.50 to $4 per week. Those who
labor as spinners and spoolers make only from seventy-five cents to $2, but
they are generally very young." In the cotton mill at Cannelton, Ind., there
were "in 1854, about 200 females. They worked by the job, and their pay
was the same as would be given to men for the same work. They earned
from $1 to $5.50 per week." We believe, in the majority of factories, the
plan of paying some hands by the piece, and some by the week, is adopted.
B., manufacturer, told me quite a number of his weavers earn from $5 to $6
a week, being paid by the piece. It requires two or three months to get in the
way of weaving well. His hands are busy all the year. His factory is in New
Jersey, twenty-five miles from New York. The laws of New Jersey prohibit
the employment of operatives more than twelve hours out of the twenty-
four, but some evade it. The law, also, forbids the employment of children
under ten years of age. The smaller children are engaged in spinning, and
not so well paid. It requires but a short time to learn to attend the spinning
machinery. There is generally a full supply of weavers to be had, because it
pays well. Manufacturers usually have their work done in the country,
because living, and consequently labor, are cheaper there. A cotton
manufacturer in Rhode Island, who employs about 100 operatives, writes:
"I pay both by the piece and the week. When by the week, from $4 to $5.
When by the piece, the women are paid at the same rate as the men, but the
men are able to make from fifty cents to $1 per week more. It requires from
three to six months, to learn. Girls are paid while learning, if they grow up

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with us. They are employed through the year, and work sixty-nine hours per
week, twelve hours per day for five days, nine hours on Saturday. All
classes of laborers must work during mill hours. Women keep the rooms
and machinery neater than men. About seven eighths of the women
employed in our mill are Americans; one half would be the nearer
proportion in mills generally in this section, three fourths in some instances.
There are other parts that women might be employed in, but the custom has
not been introduced in our section, on account of their dress. They pay from
$1.50 to $1.75 for board, and are all in private families." The Lawrence
Manufacturing Company, at Lowell, write: "Women are employed in
carding, spinning, dressing, and weaving. The employment is not unhealthy,
and they earn from $1 to $4 a week, clear of board, according to capability
and skill—average, say, $2 per week. They work eleven hours a day; men
average about eighty cents a day clear of board; their work is altogether too
hard for women. The women learn in from one to three months. They are
paid, usually, $1 a week, besides their board, while learning. The
qualifications needed are respectable character and ordinary capacity. They
are employed all the year round. The scarcity of hands is greater in the
departments requiring most skill; there is an abundance of inferior sort. We
employ 1,300 women; perhaps one third are Americans. They are employed
in all branches where it is expedient. The Americans are well informed; the
Irish, improving, though low in the scale of intelligence. They have
churches, evening schools, and lectures. Work stops at 6.30 and 7 o'clock.
They live in boarding houses under our care, well regulated, respectable and
comfortable, and pay $1.25 per week." At the New York mills, "361 adult
and 99 minor females are employed in the manufacture of fine shirtings and
cottonades. Wages of adults are $3.99, and minors, $2.12½ per week. Price
of board, $1.50. They work 12 hours per day." The Naunkeag Steam Cotton
Company, Mass., "employ 400, and pay by the week, from $2.50 to $3.
Those that do piecework, earn on an average, $3.50 per week; six months
will enable intelligent hands to earn three fourths pay. Their board is paid
for two weeks, while learning, then they receive what they earn. Desirable
hands find steady work; they are employed all the year; they work eleven
hours a day. We prefer women, because neater and more reliable. They have
more time for improvement than is made available. Board, $1.50 to $1.75.
Good boarding houses are provided." At Kingston, Rhode Island, a man

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employing nine girls, pays by the yard, and the girls earn from $4 to $6 per
week. Men receive the same wages as women. They work from sun up to
sun down, except at meal times. If other mills ran but ten hours, they would.
They have work all the year. Hands are rather scarce in that State. All are
American. They prefer it to general housework. Women are the best in mills
for light work. Female operatives pay $1.50 for board, lodging, and
washing. The Jackson Manufacturing Company of New Haven writes:
"Women are employed in the various branches belonging to a cotton mill.
Average wages of our females are $2.30, and board money $1.25, making
$3.55 per week received by them. Some females in our employ earn eighty
cents per day; average price of male labor, about eighty-four cents per day.
Women are paid less, because they cannot do such work as is done by men.
In regard to the time required to learn to do the work in the different
departments, much depends upon the dispositions of the learners. Six
months would ordinarily be sufficient time to render one competent.
Women are usually allowed their board while learning. A good character
and good health are needed. There is much changing among help during the
spring and summer months, say for four months in the year; but we almost
invariably keep our supply good. Our working hours are eleven and a
quarter per day. With the exception of our weaving department, but little
work is done on Saturday afternoons aside from cleaning, so that our
working hours will not average over ten and a half per day. By giving a
suitable notice to the overseer, it is so arranged that the help can be absent
from their work one day of a month. The largest proportion of American
help is found in the weaving and dressing departments. We have in our
employ 140 men, 310 females, about one half American. We have good
boarding houses, carefully watched, and kept clean in all respects. Our
American help are quite intelligent, also some of the foreign. Some of our
help attend school during the winter months. Board $1.25 per week—the
keeper of the house not paying rent. The houses will each accommodate
about twenty persons comfortably." Another manufacturing company pay
from $2 to $4 per week, mostly by the piece. The work can be learned in
three or four months. Their hands are paid small wages while learning.
They have constant employment. They usually work twelve hours per day;
three fourths American. From a manufacturer in Gilford, New Hampshire,
we learn he employs forty women, who work by the piece, and whose

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average pay is $3 per week. They work eleven hours. Females are paid the
same as men for the same kind of work. Some parts of the business can be
learned in one day, others ten, and some hands will learn in one day what
others would not in ten. Work at all seasons; spring and fall most busy. It
pays better than housework. Board of males, $2.50; females, $1.25 to $1.50.
A manufacturer in New York writes: "I employ about twenty women in
weaving, twenty-five in spinning, spooling and other branches; boys and
girls from fifteen to twenty each, and ten men. Women average about $2.50
per week. Women are paid the same price as men. Weavers earn about
$3.50 per week. My mill runs twelve hours per day, the year round. Women
are mostly American. The girls have an hour for each meal." A medical man
has stated, that the health of operatives is promoted by occupying rooms
with large windows on each side of the room, so that the sunlight will
penetrate the apartments during the entire day. And those rooms with white
walls are more healthy and better for the eyes than those with colored walls.
162. Batting. A manufacturer of cotton batting writes: "Women are
employed in our factory to tend machinery. They are employed in Europe. It
is only unhealthy from being indoor work. We pay, per week, for best
hands, $2 and board. They work twelve hours. I think there is a surplus of
hands at this time. The work is light and does not require an expenditure of
strength. The work is as comfortable as any can be. All parts will not
answer for women. Board $1.42. Men are paid $1 more than women, but
perform a different part of the work. Learners usually command wages after
two weeks. The summer is the most profitable time to manufacture."
163. Calicoes. Calico takes its name from Calicot, a town in Malabar,
where the art has been practised with great success from time immemorial.
Calico printing is the art of producing figured patterns upon cotton. They
are transferred to its surface by blocks, or engraved by copper cylinders, by
which the colors are directly printed, or by which a substance having an
affinity for both the stuff and coloring matter is employed, which is called a
mordant. "In England, calico printing employs a vast number of children of
both sexes, who have to mix and grind the colors for the adult workpeople,
and are commonly called turners. The usual hours of labor are twelve,
including meal time; but as the children generally work the same time as the

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adults, it is by no means uncommon in all districts for children of five and
six years old to be kept at work fourteen and even sixteen hours
consecutively. They begin to work generally about their eighth year, as in
Birmingham and Sheffield, but often earlier." Calico is printed mostly in
Lowell, Philadelphia, Saco, Dover, and some other towns. A manufacturing
company of lawns and calicoes in Providence, R. I., write: "We employ
fifty women in stitching, folding, and tracing pantograph designs. The
employment is healthy. We pay from fifty cents to sixty-seven cents per day
of ten hours. We have one woman who does a man's work at folding, and is
paid a man's wages—$1 per day. The time to learn the business is according
to natural ability; very soon with ordinary capacity, say, two weeks. Cool
weather is the best for work, but the women are not thrown out of
employment at any season. We have more applicants than we can
accommodate. The light, clean work, is best for women; the rough and
heavy for men. We adopt female labor as far as practicable. Ordinary board
is from $2 to $2.50 per week."
164. Canton Flannels. A manufacturer of Canton flannels in Holden,
Mass., writes: "We employ from twenty to twenty-five women in spinning,
spooling, drawing, and speeder tending, warping and weaving. We like
them because they are neater, and more reliable, and the work is better
adapted to females. They earn from fifty cents to $1 per day of twelve
hours. Women are paid the same as men, except the overseers, who get
from $1.25 to $1.67 per day. It requires from one week to four to learn the
business. We sometimes pay their board while learning, if they are attentive
to work. It is as reliable as any business. There is no difference in seasons;
we work the year round. The time could not be shortened. In weaving there
is no surplus of hands. I would say, that with the present prospects for
business, it would be well for many of the females in want of employment
to learn to weave. They can make from $4 to $6 a week, but mostly average
$4.75. It is healthy work. The labor is not hard, but confining; and the girls
are generally happy and contented. Three fourths of ours are Americans."
165. Carpet Chains. We were told that in the manufacture of carpet
chain, "women are employed in spooling. We saw women employed in
weaving various kinds of binding for carpets, webbing for girths, reins, and

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harness. The hours of labor are nominally ten, which, indeed, seems
reasonable, in Philadelphia; but in the suburbs, and some parts of New
England, both men and women work fifteen hours. Our informant uses no
artificial light on the premises, and when the daylight fails, his workpeople
leave off labor. The wages are the usual fifty cents a day. Steady hands are
kept in work the year round; but unskilful workwomen are dismissed after
fair trial. Men earn double what women earn, though they do not produce
double the work, nor do it any better. When machinery is used, women
frequently require assistance from a workman."
166. Cord. C., of Philadelphia, manufacturer of black and white cord,
employs about thirty women in spooling, twisting, balling, and making into
skeins. He keeps his hands all the year. He did not permit us to see them,
saying they object to being seen by strangers, on the ground that they are
"en deshabille." We can bear witness to the probability of this statement, for
almost all the women we have seen at work are very untidily clad, and
dirty; indeed, in the present total disregard of cleanliness in the workrooms,
if they wore better clothes, they would spoil more than they can afford.
Ought not employers and workwomen to consider this subject, since it
undoubtedly degrades a female, even in her own estimation, as in that of
others, to be habitually in what is mildly qualified "deshabille?" The
spoolers receive the highest wages, viz., $5 per week; the other hands from
$2 to $5. The fine cord is made farther East, as it can there be produced
cheaper; the coarser can be made in Philadelphia, at a lower rate. Mr. J., of
New York, employs six women, two of them earn $7 each—the others less.
It is paid for by the quantity. Prospect for work, good. There are but five
factories in New York city, but they do seven eighths of the city business. In
Philadelphia most is made. It takes but two or three months to learn. They
give employment all the year, and learners receive something from the first.
167. Dyers and Bleachers. Dyeing may be divided into seven branches:
1, calico and cotton; 2, fur; 3, fustian; 4, leather; 5, linen; 6, silk; 7, wool
and woollen. Silk and wool are of animal origin, and require different
treatment in dyeing from substances of a vegetable nature, such as cotton
and flax. All the various colors and shades of dyed goods were originally
derived from the combination of the four simple colors—blue, red, yellow,

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and black. Cotton is more easily dyed than linen, and the colors are brighter.
Much of what is said under "Print Works" will apply to this subject. They
are so similar, a distinction is scarcely necessary. In large manufacturing
cities, dyers usually confine themselves to one kind of goods, as wool or
silk, and some to certain colors. Dye houses, in other than manufacturing
cities and towns, are mostly for the coloring of goods that are worn, or new
goods that have been damaged. A great deal of dyeing is done in our large
cities. Frequently, persons going into mourning have articles of dress dyed.
Steam has taken the place mostly of hard labor. When goods have been well
dyed, a casual observer could not detect it. Permanency of color is a
desirable item in dyeing. Some women make a living by keeping a little
shop, where they receive goods to be colored, and have the work done at
dye houses, making, of course, a profit. There is generally a dye house
connected with every large factory of woollen goods. A girl who was
employed in a dye house says the work is far from being neat. The work of
most of the girls is light. It is to put letters or figures on the articles sent,
and when dyed, fold and tie them up, and place the numbers on. In the dye
house where she was, one girl received $3.50—the others, each, $3 per
week. They worked ten hours a day. One girl was employed in finishing the
goods—that is, running them over a heated cylinder to smooth and dry
them. She says the floors of dye houses are so wet that women would find it
not only filthy, but injurious. Mr. Y. says women are not employed in the
mechanical department of his dye and print establishment—that the
business requires the workers to stand in liquids, and the atmosphere is very
damp. A woman would be liable to suffer from exposure of that kind. A girl
employed at another place to mark goods, told me she received $3 per
week. Was told at C.'s dye house that he employs four girls, paying $3, and
$3.50 a week. They put numbers on goods, and do other work of that kind.
They work ten hours. A cotton goods bleacher and dyer told me the work
was too wet and dirty for women. Most of the winding of cotton for dyeing
is done by machinery. By steam power one person could do ten times as
much as by a wheel. At one place they paid thirty-five cents for basting
together two pieces of cloth eight yards long to be bleached; and a woman
could earn from seventy-five cents to $3 per day; but the work could not
last long. We called at a dyer and bleacher's. He said: "Very few women are
employed in dyeing in this country, but in the old country they are. He has

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seen them at it in Scotland, and there it is rather better paid than most
women's work. They are also employed in bleaching, both by chemicals and
exposure to the sun. It is not unhealthy, although in a dye house a person
must be wet from the knees down. By wearing thick boots, and leggings of
India rubber, they would not be likely to suffer. Occasionally, dyers get
some of the chemicals they use into sores on their hands and feet, which
may injure them some, but not seriously. He says the work must be done in
a certain time, and so they cannot be particular about keeping their feet dry.
He pays old women for hanking cotton 37½ cents a score, and so they may
earn $2.25 a week." There are mechanical modes of printing textile fabrics.
In the Staten Island Dye and Print Works, "there are a good many women
and children employed. The latter are principally confined to the printing
department, each of the sixty printers engaged there being allowed a child
for the purpose of adjusting or distributing the color evenly, previous to the
application of the block. The rate of wages paid in this establishment is, we
understand, as follows: the printers and block makers are paid by the piece,
and when in full work can earn from $60 to $70 a month; the dyers and
other workmen receive from 37½ cents to $1.25 a day; the women $6 to
$12 a month, and the children from $6 to $8." A dyer writes: "Women are
sometimes employed in the finishing department, and are mostly paid by
the day. Spring and fall are the busy seasons." One in Walpole, Mass.,
writes: "I think more than an ordinary degree of intelligence is required for
the business, because of the thought and observation necessary." A dyer in
Buffalo, N. Y., writes: "I employ two, and sometimes three women. Women
are employed in basting work together, and in finishing it after it is dyed. In
some places they have charge of the office, and receive and deliver goods.
For a healthy person it is not injurious. In finishing, the individual is on his
or her feet all the time. I pay from $1.75 to $5 per week, and hands work
from ten to sixteen hours. The time could not be shortened, owing to the
nature of the business, and the loss during the winter. The comfort and
remuneration of the part done by women is very good. Women of equal
intelligence with men do better, as it is of female apparel the business
mostly consists. In winter they have considerable unoccupied time they
could devote to mental improvement." The proprietor of the Chelsea Dye
House writes: "We employ about seventy-five women to wash, iron, and
finish dyed goods. About one eighth are Americans. It is not unhealthy, to

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my knowledge, or in my experience. Average pay is $3.50 per week. Those
that work by the piece can earn from $3.50 to $6 per week of eleven hours
per day. Women are paid all which the business they do will afford. It
requires a woman of fair capacity a few weeks to learn. Work is constant for
good hands. Work is nearly uniform through the seasons. Large cities are
the best localities for business. They pay about $1.75 per week for board in
private families of their own standing." A member of a firm at Astoria, L. I.,
writes: "We employ from seventy-five to one hundred women in washing
and dyeing yarns and cloth. We know them to be so employed in Berlin,
Prussia. The employment is not unhealthy. We pay by the week from $4 to
$5. They work ten hours. We pay men $7 per week for the same work that
the females are employed at, because they do more. It requires about four
years to learn fully that portion of work done by females. They are paid $2
per week while learning. A good public school education is needed, and
temperate, steady habits. The prospects for females are good—eventually
they will supersede the men in one branch of the business. The spring and
fall seasons are the best. The winter is not so good. About two months in the
summer our works are partially stopped. There is a surplus of dyers in
Lowell, Mass. We employ women in preference to men, because we believe
them to be more intelligent than men—especially emigrants. About two
thirds are Americans. They have evening schools, lectures, and church
services. Those that board pay about $1.50 per week."
168. Factory Operatives. The larger number of operatives in our
manufactures are females. They are of all ages. They do not remain so
permanently in our factories as in those of older countries. They make
skilful and active workers. The factory operatives of this country are more
favorably situated than those of most countries. Most of them have
wholesome food and comfortable homes, or boarding houses. They are not
confined in factories from early childhood until they lie down to take their
last, long sleep; consequently, they are not stunted and deformed, and
prematurely old. The activity and variety attending life in the city are likely
to produce great restlessness, and insatiable thirst for excitement. This must
be checked, or its results may be ruinous. Vent of the feelings is harmless;
wholesome amusements, recreation so far as is possible in the quiet of the
country, reading good books, and social intercourse with the virtuous and

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worthy, will form a good substitute for this artificial excitement. So greatly
is the manufacture of materials into cloth, and cloth into goods, facilitated
by machinery, that wool taken from the sheep's back to-day, can be worn as
clothing to-morrow. The number of factories has greatly increased since the
introduction of machinery; nor is it strange, for goods have become cheaper
and the demand is greater. The materials for manufacturing are abundant in
this country; but the want of workmen acquainted with this business, and
the want of capital, have prevented some branches of American
manufacture from equalling those of older countries. The improvements in
machinery for removing dust and floating cotton in the work rooms, no
doubt renders it more healthy than it was. "In proof of his assertion that
factory labor shortens life, Dr. Jarrold deposed, that having examined, in the
schools, all the children whose fathers had ever worked, or were still
working in factories, he found that from one third to one fourth were
fatherless." "Out of about two thousand children and young persons taken
promiscuously, who were carefully examined in 1832, two hundred were
deformed. These were factory operatives." These statements refer to
operatives in England. Some women are employed in the manufactories of
Birmingham, England, as overseers in the departments where women work,
but the number is small, and in our country it is still more uncommon.
Cotton and woollen goods are extensively manufactured in the New
England States, New York, and Pennsylvania. A gentleman told me that a
little more than a year ago, as he came from Vermont, he saw a young man
in the cars with about twenty girls, that he was bringing down from Canada
to a cotton factory in Massachusetts. The manufacturers had offered a bonus
of $5 apiece for girls, and to pay their travelling expenses, and this young
man was making a business of it. He says, in busy seasons there is a
scarcity of hands in the New England factories. We believe that when men
and women do the same kind of work, such as weaving, and are paid by the
quantity, no difference is made in their wages. In comparing returns from
several factories in Massachusetts, I find weavers earn in them from $4 to
$5.50 per week; warpers, $3 to $5; dotters, $3 to $4. Irish women, by
working for less wages, have pushed American women out of factories. In
Lowell, a few years back, nearly all the operatives were young American
girls from the country. Many worked from the most honorable, self-denying
motives; some to educate younger members of the family, some to assist

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widowed mothers or hard-working fathers, some to lay by a sum to support
themselves in old age, and some to acquire the means for obtaining a more
extensive school education. A manufacturer of printing cloths, Reading,
Pennsylvania, writes: "In all countries where there are cotton mills, women
are employed as weavers, fly and drawing tenders, spoolers, warpers,
dressers, and cloth pickers. The work is not more unhealthy than any indoor
employment. Workers earn from $2.25 to $6. Men and women are paid the
same for the same kind of work. Our kind of work may be destroyed a year
or so by the unsettled state of the country—otherwise it is good. The hands
work about eleven hours at present prices, one hour less would reduce
wages about 10 per cent. There are openings in cotton mills along the
Hudson River, and farther East, and a surplus of hands in mechanical towns
inland. The work is lighter than most of womanly employments. Women are
superior in attending faithfully to their work, and are more easily managed
than men. Board is from $1.50 to $1.75 per week, and is much better than
their homes would be, if they were the daughters of day laborers, as many
of them are. I would say further, in our branch of business women are
treated in all respects as regards their work the same as men, paid the same,
and under the same rules and restraint. In our dressing department the
women make from $6 to $8, while the men make from $8 to $10, with the
same machine at the same price. There are but few mills that employ
women dressers, except in Pennsylvania. They are not strong enough; but
here the descendants of the old Dutch stock are more masculinely
developed, and are taking the place of the men in this branch." A gentleman
who has been manufacturing cotton cloth in North Adams, Massachusetts,
between twenty and thirty years, writes: "We employ women and girls in
our mill. Some of the work requires constant stepping and walking. Wages
for spinning girls, $2.50 to $3 per week; for boys the same, for spooling;
from $2.75 to $3 for speeder and drawer tenders; $3 for warpers, or $4; all
the rates of labor include the board. Farther East, women are employed as
dressers, earning from $4 to $6 per week. Weaving is paid for by the piece
—most other work by the week, as it cannot so well be let by the piece. To
learn to spin on the throstle frames requires from six to eight weeks. The
qualifications desired in an applicant are expertness, good behavior, ability
to read and write, industry, and a desire to be useful to the employer. In
midsummer, hands are most scarce. Good workers are never thrown out of

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employment except during panics. In this place (North Adams), hands
usually work from twelve to twelve and a half hours; Saturdays we close at
four o'clock in summer. Farther East, a number of operators work eleven
hours; some, twelve; and some, even twelve and a half. The legislature of
the General Government is, and has been for many years, against
encouraging the industry of the country. Whatever revenue laws would
promote the making of iron, wool, cotton, or cutlery, would assist and
support agriculture, the making of shoes, and all other branches of labor.
The cotton mills can merely subsist. The hours could not be shortened.
Those employed in watching, warming, oiling up, superintending, repairing,
&c., have the same hours. There has been a demand for hands everywhere
in Massachusetts, Connecticut, and adjoining States. Women are more
orderly, more easily governed, and more cleanly than men. Their slim
fingers enable them to be more expert. They are more attentive, as a general
thing, where the labor requires only looking after, creating no fatigue,
except that which arises from close attention. For these reasons women are
preferable. Their labor is somewhat cheaper than men's of the same age. In
Western Massachusetts, about three fourths are American women; in
Eastern Massachusetts about one half are, and the other half foreigners. The
women have good boarding houses, and live and dress well. Here, a hand
can leave his employer by giving two weeks' notice; farther East, four
weeks' notice is required. In both places, effort is made to spare them at
once, if they desire it. My American work people are above mediocrity; the
others, rather below. Children under fifteen years of age are required by law
to be kept out of the mills for at least three months in the year, to attend
school; more if the parents choose, as the schools are free. Employers, as a
general thing, press and urge the children to school, as intelligent hands are
worth more than ignorant ones. For good board, women pay $1.50 per
week; with lodging and washing, $2. Many hands lay up sums in the
savings banks; very many more might do so, if they chose. Good female
spinners, speeder tenders, spoolers, warpers, twisters-in, and weavers are
always rather scarce. They command from $3 to $6 per week. Widow
women, with families of girls to support, can get a good living by such
work, and lay up some money if they try." Hitherto few manufactories have
been established in the Southern United States: but now that the South will
depend more on its own resources, no doubt manufactories of cotton goods

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will be built up very rapidly. From "Northern Profits and Southern Wealth,"
we make an extract: "One third of the hands employed in factories at the
East are females. At the South, female labor is taking the same direction. At
the North, this element of labor is supplied by immigration in nearly its
whole extent—a very large proportion of the females employed in the
factories being Irish. The Eagle mills in Georgia have one hundred and
thirty-six looms, and employ seventy girls, who earn 50 cents to $1 per day.
The operatives in all these factories are white people, chiefly girls and boys,
from twelve to twenty years of age. On an average they are better paid and
worked easier than is usually the case in the North. Country girls from the
pine forests, as green and awkward as it is possible to find them, soon
become skilful operatives; and ere they have been in the mills a year, they
are able to earn from $4 to $6 a week. They are only required to work ten
hours a day. Particular attention is paid to the character of the operatives,
and in some mills none are received but those having testimonials of good
moral character and industrious habits. Churches and Sabbath schools are
also attached to several of the manufactories, so that the religious training
of the operatives may be properly attended to. In 1860, 45,315 males and
73,605 females were employed in cotton factories. The woollen
manufacturers employed as operatives in 1860, 28,780 males and 20,120
females.
169. Gingham. From the Manchester Gingham Manufactory, we learn
149 American women are there employed in weaving, winding, spooling,
piecing, drawing, reeling, and spinning. "Spinners' maximum is sixty cents
per day. Weavers receive twenty-six and eighteen cents per cut. Women
receive for winding ten cents per cut, nine cents for spooling, forty cents per
day for piecing, for drawing $2.50 per week, and for reeling 1¼ and 1½
cents per doff. We pay the same to men and women for the same kind of
work. They are usually about two months learning. Prospect for work is
very good. We make a staple article. Summer is the best season; we have
steady work the year round. Hands work sixty-nine hours during six days—
twelve hours, five days; and nine on Saturday. There is some demand for
them; we prefer women for weaving. They pay for board $1.40 per week."
The agent of the Gingham Mills, in Clinton, Mass., in reply to a letter
seeking information, says: "We employ four hundred females, young and

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old, in the various branches of cotton manufacture. They are paid from forty
cents to $1.25, according to skill and ability; they work 11½ hours. They are
paid partly by the piece, and partly by the day. By the piece, and for the
same kind of work, women receive as much as men. Some branches are
learned very quickly, and some slowly, according to capacity. Women are
paid while learning, much to our loss. Ordinary intelligence and complete
use of the physical faculties are necessary qualifications. We work at all
seasons. The women are very careful to select their times for absence,
visiting, &c., when we are preparing the winter style of goods, which are of
darker colors, and possibly less profitable to them. They are sure to come
back during the manufacture of lighter styles. It is clearly a womanly way
of doing business, but the men do the same. The kinds of work women do in
mills do not require the strength of men, and so women are employed. It is
cheapest to employ women; because, if we employed only men, half the
village would be idle. Boys can do all the work that the females do. We
have four hundred males also. One third are American. In weaving, where
men's and women's work is most justly and fully compared, men do the
most and the best in quality. In other branches there is no decided
difference. Board $1.50 per week; the houses are of good moral character,
and very comfortable."
170. Hosiers. The invention of machinery for making hose is ascribed to
William Lee, of England, 1589. Some trace the invention of knit stockings
to Spain. The number of hands employed in the manufacture of hose in
Saxony amounts to 45,000. Cotton, woollen, linen, and silk are the kinds of
hose common to us. The manufacture of hose worn by Americans is mostly
English. The amount of capital required, and the small number of good
operatives in our country, cause the products of some of our manufactures
to be of an inferior quality. Years back knitting was much done, particularly
in the country, but the general use of machinery has superseded the knitting
needle. In our large cities, the great amount of hosiery worn might make the
sale of hose and half hose a payable business. In making cotton and woollen
hose, some children wind the cotton, some join the seams, and others sew
them on the boards, to put them in shape. We called to see Aiken's knitting
machine. It is quite an ingenious affair; price, $65. I think if any two
women would buy one, and one should knit, while the other formed the feet

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and finished them off, it would pay better than sewing. Large quantities of
hosiery are made in Germantown, Pa. It gives employment to many women,
who, at their houses, finish them off. The United States Government have
usually obtained their clothing, shoes, hats, and socks for the army and navy
at Philadelphia, but since the war commenced, most of the clothing has
been made up in New York. The manufacture of hosiery is very limited in
New York. At the principal hosiery establishment we were told they only
employ women to seam that are the wives of the weavers, and they do the
work at home. It is very poor pay, and is done almost altogether by English
women who have been brought up to the business. It would not pay a
person to learn it. An English stocking weaver told me that he does
theatrical work, as it pays best. He has known two women from his own
country that wove hosiery in the United States. One did journey work with
her husband in New York. She earned from $4 to $5 per week. Such work is
paid for by the piece or dozen. The work pays poorly. A woman cannot earn
at it more than thirty-seven or fifty cents a day, being paid eighteen cents a
dozen for seaming socks. To seam shirts and drawers pays better, six cents
being paid for each article. Weaving stockings by hand looms will not pay
in this country—they can be imported so cheaply. It is rather light work.
Work done by steam power is not so neat; the selvages are not well made,
and the goods must be cut and sewed in seams. Many women are employed
in hosiery manufactures where steam is used. A stocking manufacturer in
Lake Village, N. H., writes: "Seven hundred girls and married women are
employed in this village to make stockings. Wages run from 50 cents to $1
per day of ten hours; some are paid by the day, others by the piece. Men's
work, being harder, is better paid. It requires from three to five weeks to
learn. Women have their board paid while learning. Spring, summer, and
autumn are the best seasons for work. Some work at the business to
maintain their families; others, because they have nothing to do. All are
Americans. They pay for board from $1.25 to $1.50 per week." A
manufacturer writes: "We employ twenty-five females in the mill, and from
one hundred to one hundred and twenty-five who take work to their homes.
Nine tenths are Americans. We pay from $3.50 to $6 per week. It requires
but a short time to learn in some departments. They are paid from the time
of entering the factory as a learner. It is considered a permanent business.
Men and women do not work on the same branches." At the Troy hosiery

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manufactory, "sixty women are employed in tending knitting machines,
winding yarn, and sewing by hand and by machines. The employment is
healthy. Their wages run from $3 to $6 per week, average $4.50. They work
mostly by the piece, a few by the week. Males and females usually work
side by side, and the wages are alike. They are continually learning, from 18
years old to 40. The prospect is good for future employment, and the
employment in factories is generally constant. They work twelve hours per
day. If shorter time was universal, it would not affect the profits. About one
half are Americans. The rooms are well ventilated, and the temperature
from sixty to seventy degrees summer and winter."
171. Men's Wear. A gentleman in Darby, Penn., writes: "Women are
employed in factories equally with men, throughout this section of country,
as weavers. They are paid just as well, for the same kind of labor. The
employment, for aught I can see, is entirely healthy. They receive from $18
to $25 per month of four weeks. They are paid by the piece. It requires
about three months to learn weaving, dependent upon the facility with
which the learners acquire knowledge. Learners are never paid while
receiving instruction; but on the other hand, they more often pay their
companions for the privilege of being taught. Industrious habits and
quickness of perception are essential to complete success. By a law of
Pennsylvania, sixty hours constitute a week's labor in factories. There is
neither a demand nor surplus of hands at present, though a number of
factories are in course of erection in this section of country; but they will
doubtless be filled as soon as ready, for American women especially prefer
factory to household labor. About one half our hands are American. Women
have more stability of character than men, and are generally superior to
them in the neatness with which they bring the cloth from the looms. Board
for operatives is from $8 to $9 per month."
172. Print Works. The Calico Print Works, New Hampshire, report: "We
employ about 24 girls. The employment is healthy. We pay girls about
fourteen years old, thirty-three cents a day for 10½ hours in summer; in
winter they work till dark, averaging ten hours. To girls about twenty years
old, we pay fifty cents per day. The men and women do different work. The
prospect of future employment is good. Hands work all the year the same.

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The price of good board is from $1.25 to $1.50 per week." The agent of the
Pacific Print Works, Lawrence, Mass., gives the following reply to
inquiries: "We employ one thousand women in carding, spinning, spooling,
warping, and weaving, on sewing machines, sewing by hand, measuring,
knotting, ticketing, &c. The employment is generally healthy, but the
workers are more or less exposed to bad air and to dust. They are paid from
twenty-five cents to $1 per day, according to age or skill. They work from
ten to eleven hours per day. Some work but 5½ days, from choice. It would
doubtless be a pecuniary loss to shorten the hours. Women are as well paid
here, generally, as men, when comparative strength and power of endurance
are considered. It requires from three to twelve months to learn. While
learning, they usually receive enough to pay their board. The more strength
and intelligence they have, the better. The prospect for this employment is
good. They work during all seasons. Women are not usually as well fitted as
men to attend large machines, but are better for smaller ones. From three
hundred to four hundred of our women are continual readers of our library.
They pay $1.50 per week for board. It is as good, for the class of people to
be accommodated, as any I ever saw." The agent of the print works,
Manchester, N. H., writes: "Women are employed in all departments. They
average sixty-five cents a day, and work eleven hours. They are paid by the
piece, and at the same rate as the men. It requires from one to four weeks to
learn. This kind of business is increasing. There is a demand all through
New England for female labor in our branch of business. We employ 1,200,
and three fourths are American. They are more steady than men. Some of
our girls go West to teach, and some teach here. They have separate
boarding houses, and pay $1.37 per week, including washing and lights.
The houses are kept with as much order as any female school. No operative
is received until they certify that they will comply with the regulations," a
copy of which we examined, and found to be very good. From the print
works at Haverstraw, N. Y., we receive the following information: "Women
are employed in sewing, measuring calico, and in the engraving department,
in running the pantograph machines, which dispense entirely with hand
engraving, die making, and machine engraving. Women are employed in
England, but only partially in other European countries. The women earn
from $2 to $4 per week. Men receive double the pay of women: I know of
no reason but usage. Only a few weeks are necessary to become proficient

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in our work, except in the engraving department. Men serve seven years to
learn the art of engraving and printing. Women learn to trace by the
pantograph in three months; become proficient in one year. Ability and
good judgment are necessary. The prospect for the employment of females
is good in many other departments, particularly designing. We are decided
that females could successfully acquire the art and trade of designing and
drawing patterns for calico. Wages of males for this work are from $10 to
$40 per week—few at the former, more at $20. Ten hours constitute a day.
The time could be shortened an hour or two without loss. We employ about
forty females, because their labor is cheaper, and they are more reliable. We
find women superior in all branches in which they are employed. The trade
society forbids their employment in other parts of the work. Ability to read
and write are indispensable in some departments. Men pay for board, $3;
women, $1.50." The Suffolk print works pay by the piece, and average
eighty cents per day. One of the proprietors at the print works in Pawtucket,
Mass., writes: "Women are employed in tracing pantograph designs, and
receive from fifty to sixty-seven cents per day. We have one woman who
does a man's work at folding, and is paid a man's wages. The work is soon
learned, with ordinary capacity. A good physical condition is needed. There
is prospect for employment as long as calicoes are used. Cool seasons are
the best for work—in very warm weather, work is suspended a short time.
We employ fifty. The work is light and clean. The number of American
women is very small. We adopt female labor as soon as the aid of
machinery renders it practicable. Men are superior in strength and
endurance. A locality is desirable where a free circulation of air is furnished
on all sides. For ordinary board, women pay $2.50." The agent of the Fall
River print works writes: "We pay women by the piece. They earn from $18
to $20 a month; have work the year round. For five days in the week they
work 10½ hours; on Saturday, 8½. We employ women because they can do
more and cost less than men. Localities are sought where there is a good
supply of soft water. Board from $2 to $2.50." A lawn manufacturer in
Lodi, N. J., writes: "We employ women in engraving, in stitching, and in
finishing goods. The work is very healthy. We pay women $5 per week for
engraving; from $2.50 to $5 for other branches. The work can be learned in
from four to five weeks. The business is increasing. The women are never
out of work. One half are Americans. Women are employed ten hours a day;

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on Saturday, eight. Women are employed, to help the village along. Very
comfortable board, $5 per month." The proprietor of some works in Rhode
Island writes me: "We employ about twenty women and girls in measuring
cloth, sewing the ends together for bleaching and fulling, knotting the ends
of the pieces of cloth when folded; also in engraving copper rolls for
printing calicoes, with a pantograph engraving machine. The prices vary
from $1 per week to $3 and over, working ten hours a day. For the same
work, females are paid the same as males. The work is easily learned.
Women are paid while learning. Women will be more employed in future.
Work is constant, so far as seasons go. There is probably no other branch of
this work, in which women may be employed, than those in which they are.
Where women are employed they are as valuable as males. Board of
women, $1.50 per week." "In the calico mills of Great Britain, girls grind
and mix the colors. They are called teerers. They begin at five years of age,
and labor twelve hours a day, sometimes sixteen; and are kept late into the
night to prepare for the following day."
173. Spinners. "Each of the workmen at present employed in a cotton
mill superintends as much work as could have been executed by two
hundred or three hundred workmen sixty or seventy years ago; and yet,
instead of being diminished, the numbers have increased even in a still
greater proportion." Again, we read that "a single person can spin as much
cotton in Lowell in an hour, as could three thousand Hindoos, by whom at
one time cotton cloth was principally manufactured." The wages of cotton
spinners in Paris are only from twenty to forty cents per day of twelve
hours. We read in the Monthly Review, that "the masters of mills are
unanimous in asserting that girls, and they alone are trained to flax
spinning, never become expert artists, if they begin to learn after eleven."
The small particles set loose in spinning affect respiration, and in the course
of time do so very seriously. In many parts of Europe women carry portable
distaffs, and spin as they walk. Two kinds of wheels are used for spinning—
one for spinning cotton, tow, and wool—the other is used for flax. Steam
machinery is mostly used for spinning cotton. The prices usually paid
spinners will be found under factory operatives. I inquired of a girl spooling
cotton for a weaver of coverlets, what wages she received. She replied:
"$1.50 a week, working five hours a day."

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174. Spool Cotton. A manufacturer at Fall River, Mass., writes: "We
employ twenty women in spooling thread, and preparing it for market. The
average pay is $3 per week, and they work eleven hours per day. It requires
from one to two months to become expert. When learning, they are paid for
what they do carefully. The qualifications needed are neatness, and
dexterity in their manipulations. They are employed at all seasons. The
demand and supply of work people are about equal. We employ twenty
females, because the work is adapted to them, and they are quicker in
motion than men. They pay $1.75 per week for board."
175. Tape. At W.'s, New York, I saw several women weaving tape for
hoop skirts. They looked dirty and sad enough. They earn from $2 to $3.50
a week. It does not require long to learn, but they must stand all the time.
W. finds it difficult to get good workers. The incessant hum of the
machinery in such a low-roofed room would deafen me. I think it must
affect the nerves of females. He pays a learner the first month $1.50 a week.
After that, if she is competent, she will receive full wages. At the Graham
Buildings, I saw the girls putting up tape for skirts. They earn from $3 to
$4. The weavers earn from $4 to $6. It requires but a few days to learn to
weave, and but a few hours to learn to measure and tie up tape. Most of the
girls were Irish. Sixty were employed, and received work all the year.
176. Weavers. Weaving is an occupation that was followed by all classes
of women in primitive ages. The story of Penelope's shroud has been read
as far as Homer is known. In Africa spinning is mostly done by women, and
the weaving by men. The invention of machinery has very much done away
with manual weaving. Fifty years back all woollen and most of cotton
goods were made in that way. Some jeans, coarse flannel, rag carpets,
coverlets, and other similar articles are still woven by hand. Now, shawls,
dress goods, gloves, hosiery, fine carpets, cassimere, and cloth in all its
varieties, are woven by machinery. The uniting of threads, and a constant
attention to the machinery, are all that is necessary. The wages vary
according to the places, the capabilities of the operatives, the goods woven,
and the price of living. "A practical working machine is now in activity,
weaving silk by the motive power of electricity. It is applied at Lyons and
St. Etienne to the Jacquard loom." Children are extensively employed in

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Great Britain as drawers to weavers. "The great majority of hand-loom
cotton weavers work in cellars, sufficiently lighted to enable them to throw
the shuttle, but cheerless, because seldom visited by the sun. The reason
cellars are chosen is that cotton, unlike silk, requires to be woven damp.
The air, therefore, must be cool and moist, instead of warm and dry." In
Philadelphia, the average payment of female weavers is from $2.50 to $4
per week. Spinners and spoolers make but from 75 cents to $2. They are
generally unskilful adults or very young girls. The number of female
operatives engaged in the manufacture of textile fabrics in Philadelphia
exceeds twelve thousand. A manufacturer in Providence writes me: "We do
not consider weaving particularly unhealthy. We pay on an average $1 per
day, by the piece. They work eleven hours a day; the time could not be
shortened. Men spend from three to twelve months learning; women, from
three to six weeks. Women are not paid while learning; men are. All seasons
are alike. There is always a demand for weavers. We employ twenty-two
women, one fourth are American; they are not inferior to men as weavers.
Men pay $2 for good board; women, $1.75." A manufacturer of negro cloth
in Connecticut writes: "The employment is very healthy. We pay weavers
from $3.75 to $5 per week, and some make more by the piece. We pay men
and women the same for their labor. Some parts are learned by women in
two or three weeks. We generally pay women while learning. We
sometimes stop a few days, in July and August, for water. They work eleven
hours and a half, except Saturday; then from eight to ten hours. The time
could be shortened by adding extra help and looms, equal to difference of
time. We prefer women, because they weave more than men. All
Americans. They are superior to men in tying knots. Good board, $1.25." A
manufacturer of cotton cloths for calicoes writes: "Women and girls are
employed in power-loom weaving. Weaving requires a little more labor and
skill than the other departments. None under sixteen years are allowed to
weave. Women are so employed over New England, much of New York,
and Pennsylvania, but mostly in Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and
Connecticut. There is always a demand for girl weavers. It requires from
one to three months to learn to weave. They will continue to grow more
expert for three years. They weave by the cut from thirty to forty pounds.
The wages of an expert weaver are from $4 to $6 per week; board, $1.50
per week. Men weavers are paid per cut the same. An expert weaver attends

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four looms, weaving from 150 to 160 yards per day. Seamers generally pay
their way at the end of four weeks. The employment is not thought
unhealthy.

177. Linen Manufacture.

Very little flax has been raised in this country. The quantity grown was
mostly for the seed and the fibre. Ireland grows and exports large quantities.
The soil is not adapted to its growth. It is the result of the most severe labor
and high culture. In France, almost every peasant woman has a flax plot.
She tends its growth, reaps, dresses, spins, bleaches, and weaves it herself.
Some women are there employed in rotting flax and hemp. Generally, the
manufacturers of flax goods confine themselves to special departments.
Some take the raw flax, and convert it into yarn, and then stop. Some take
the yarn and weave it, and when woven, bleach it; and some only take the
unbleached woven cloth, and bleach it. In D. & Co.'s establishment in
Ireland, all the departments are combined. Eight thousand people are
dependent on this firm for support. Of these, four hundred females are
employed in spinning and weaving flax. Hand-loom linen weaving is
carried on chiefly in the north of Ireland, and, for the most part, made
subsidiary to other employments—therefore, not the sole dependence of
families. Women are employed in flax mills, in this country, England, and
Canada West. A manufacturer writes from a village in New York: "The
business is healthy, and women can do any part of the work, as well as men.
Here, men receive from $9 to $14 per month. While learning, I pay my men
$11 per month, and board them. The work is done in cold weather, away
from the fire, and requires strong, healthy persons, warmly clad. The
business is increasing in this country. The best season for work is from
October till May, and sometimes later. It is not heavy work. I would pay
women $5 a month and board, while learning; but to men would pay $11 a
month and board." (Justice!) The treasurer of the Boston flax mills writes:
"Dear Madam, women are employed on the different machines in preparing
the stock, and in spinning and weaving. They are employed largely in
England, Scotland, and Ireland, but not much in the United States. They are
paid from fifty to seventy-five cents a day, and from fifty cents to $1 for

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piecework. Ordinary female hands are paid about one half as much as men
of the same stamp; best workwomen about two thirds of same grade of
men. Men are employed where it would be too difficult and laborious for
women. For most work, a very short time is needed to learn; for the higher
grades, often many months or years, according to capacity of worker.
Common hands can earn fifty cents at once, and we would pay about that,
or more, while learning the better description of work; but should not
continue it, if they did not improve. A quick eye and hand, and a desire to
give satisfaction, are the best qualifications. The prospect for employment
in this branch is good. All the year work is furnished. Average time through
the year for work is ten hours forty minutes. It is probable that a mill, where
all hands were interested to do their best, would turn off as much work in
ten hours as a similar mill would in eleven or twelve hours, where the hands
were indifferent or careless. There are but few linen mills in this country,
and probably in none of them is there a superfluity of good hands. We
employ one hundred and twenty women and children. The work is different
from that of the men. Our workwomen are mostly foreigners—Scotch,
English, and some Irish. There is as much comfort in this occupation as
laboring people would expect. The women pursue different branches. We
find a great difference in the capacity of different women, but cannot
suggest any superiority or inferiority as regards sexes. The general intellect
among our women is very fair for foreigners, but would not be considered
remarkable for Americans. Their evenings are their own, although there
have been times, occasionally, when we have worked till nine o'clock,
paying, of course, for extra work. The mill has a good library, and there is
usually evening school in winter for those who wish to attend."
178. Sewing Thread. A manufacturer in Andover, Massachusetts, writes:
"We employ about one hundred women, who receive about $3 per week,
working eleven hours per day. Women are sometimes paid while learning.
Morality, industry, and intelligence best fit them for their work. They work
at all seasons. Very few are Americans. Women are inferior only in strength
to men pursuing the same branch." The secretary of the American Linen
Thread Company writes: "We employ about sixty women in spinning,
twisting, reeling, rolling, skeining, &c. Those that work by the week receive
$3; those by the piece, more or less. Women do the lightest work, and are

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paid about half as much as men. There is a prospect of this branch of labor
increasing. They have work all the year. Those that are paid by the day
work twelve hours. The time could not be shortened without serious loss.
Most are foreigners. Board, $1.50 to $2." A member of a firm in
Schenectady writes: "We have thirty women in our flax and tow factory,
because they are best adapted to the work. The work is healthy. We pay
from $3 to $4.50 per week, working twelve hours per day. The working
time could not be shortened. A superintendent would require from two to
three years to learn. A girl, say sixteen years old, would require about a
year. Learners receive half wages. Summer is the best season, but they have
work all the year. There is no surplus of female workers in the business.
Two thirds of our women are American, one third English. Women could
not perform that part of the work done by men, and vice versa. One third
board, and pay $1.50 per week. The Americans have a common school
education, and are intelligent. The larger ones are teachers in Sabbath
schools; the smaller ones scholars. The best localities are in the Northern
and Western States."—Shoe Thread. A manufacturer told me, most or all
the flax used for shoe thread in this country is imported. "The greater part
of the shoe thread used in the United States is spun by machinery, at Leeds,
in England, from Russian flax." The flax of this country is not fine enough;
and, for bleaching, the climate of this country and Scotland is too
changeable. If the bleachers succeed in getting it of a pure white, they
extract the substance—the life of the plant—so that it will not retain its
strength. Flax is not much attended to in this country, but it is because the
tariff is so low that no encouragement is given to manufacturers.
Pennsylvania makes more woven goods of coarse linen than any other
State, and Philadelphia more than any other city. Labor is so cheap in
Europe, that linen can be made there more cheaply than here. Mr. A.
employs a number of small girls in his mills for winding the thread into
balls, as it is imported in skeins, and pays them from $1.50 to $2 a week.
They work only in daylight. He thinks the occupation is well filled. Most
factories of the kind are in small towns where living is cheap.

179. Woollen Manufacture.

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Women and children are not so much employed in the woollen as in other
manufactures, owing to the severe labor required in some of the processes.
Wool growing is increasing in the United States, particularly in Texas. We
doubt not but many woollen manufactures will spring up when business
revives. We called on the widow of a wool puller, to ascertain what the
business is, and learned that it consists in steeping sheep skins in lime
water, then rinsing them in clean water, then removing the wool from the
skin, and packing it in bales to send away. The daughter of a wool puller in
Utica writes: "Part of the work of a wool puller could be performed by
women—that of removing the wool from the skin, and sorting it according
to the quality. In Gloucester, England, women were at one time employed as
wool pullers. The business is healthy, owing to the presence of disinfectants
employed in manufacturing. It could be made respectable and
remunerative." A wool puller in Buffalo writes: "I employ some girls in
sewing sheep skins. They are paid by the piece, and earn $4.50 a week.
Board, $2. It requires a week for a woman to learn her part—a lifetime for a
man to learn his. A steady hand and good eyesight are essential. There must
be work of this kind as long as boots and shoes are fashionable. The most
busy seasons are fall, winter, and spring. The best location is where sheep
are raised and bark to be had." People employed in the making of cloth are
wool sorters and pickers, scourers, carders, slubbers, spinners, warpers,
sizers, weavers, burlers, boilers, millers, giggers or dressers, croppers,
singers, fuzers, glossers, drawers, and packers. Some of these are women. I
am sorry to say that carding—the most unhealthy process of all—is
performed almost exclusively by women, and at low prices.
180. Blankets. "Blankets were first made at Bristol, England, by a poor
weaver named Thomas Blanket, who gave his name to this peculiar
manufacture of woollen cloths." One hundred and twenty-two women are
reported in the census of Great Britain for 1850, as blanket manufacturers.
A blanket manufacturer in New Hampshire writes: "Women are employed
in carding, weaving, and binding. The work is not unhealthy. Average
wages are seventy cents per day of eleven hours, and they are paid by the
piece. Women receive about two thirds of the wages of men, because they
do less laborious work. It requires from one week to three months to learn.
They are paid small wages while learning. The manufacture of blankets will

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increase. Business is the same at all seasons. There is a demand for hands in
many of the manufacturing villages, and a surplus in country towns. We
have twenty women, all American. They do light work faster than men.
They pay for board twenty-one cents per day, in private families."
181. Carpets. Mr. Lagrange writes: "The carpets of Smyrna and
Caramania, so widely esteemed, are evidence of what woman's genius can
produce. They are all woven by feminine hands." In 1858 there were 2,500
persons employed in the manufacture of carpets in and near Philadelphia.
Ingrain and Venetian are the kinds mostly made there, but some of a very
cheap quality are also manufactured. Those made at Hartford and Lowell
are all worsted goods. The business, we believe, has been a successful and
lucrative one. It is said that much carpeting is sold in this country, as
English, that is in reality American. Our finest carpets are imported. I
visited Mr. H.'s carpet factory, New York city, and saw the entire process,
from putting the wool in to its coming out in various kinds of carpeting,
ingrain, velvet, Brussels, tapestry, &c. From that manufactory we have the
following report: "Females tend carding, spinning, spooling, weaving, and
other machines, in the manufacture of carpeting. The employment is not
unhealthy. The branch of manufacture and the capacities of females vary the
wages from 50 cents to $1 per day of eleven hours. Three fourths work by
the piece. Males and females are not employed at the same kind of work.
The time required to learn any branch of the carpet trade depends on the
natural talent and application of the learner. Many never become proficient
enough to pursue the business profitably. The prices paid to learners depend
on their success. Health, natural talent, and application are essential. The
prospect of employment in the business is good. They have work the whole
year, except during unusual depressions of the trade. Whether the work time
of eleven hours could be shortened would depend on the profit on the
quantity produced in ten hours, compared with that produced in eleven
hours. There is no demand for female labor at the present time. We employ
from 500 to 600 females, because their labor is cheaper. About one third are
Americans. The comfort and remuneration is better than the average of
other employments in this city. They are employed by us in all branches
they can be. Females perform some branches better than men. They have
free evening schools, libraries, lectures, and churches in abundance. About

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one half board. The majority board in private families, the comfort
depending generally on the price paid." Carpet manufacturers in Wrentham,
Massachusetts, write: "We employ women in winding yarn. It is unhealthy
only because of sitting so steadily. Women average $14 per month, and are
paid by the piece. They work ten hours a day. It requires but a few weeks to
learn the business. Women are paid something while learning. They are
employed all the year. We employ eight, because the work is better adapted
to them. All the workwomen are foreigners. Men, as a general thing, do not
want to be confined to indoor work, unless the wages are high. Good board
can be had at $1.50 per week." A gentleman, who was once superintendent
of the carpet factory at Lowell, informed me all the weavers were females,
when he was there, and earned from $3.50 to $4.00 on an average. They had
about thirty pickers (females), whose business it was to pick the knots and
loose wool off the carpets.
182. Carpet Bags. K. & M., carpet-bag makers, have a factory in
Newark. The carpet bags are sewed up and the buttons put in by machines.
The lining is put in by hand. It is piecework, and the girls earn from $3 to
$6 a week. It requires but a short time to become sufficiently expert to make
it pay. The busiest times are from February 1st to June, and from the middle
of July to the 1st of November. One of the proprietors thinks the prospect to
learners is good, for the business will extend. It has increased five
hundredfold in the last five years. Their girls are mostly Americans. Making
trunk covers is piecework. The linings could be put in trunks and valises
and the varnish put on by girls. The linings could be better put in valises
than trunks by women, as they are lighter and less difficult to handle. At
H.'s carpet-bag factory, I was told they employ seventy girls, and make
from ninety to one hundred dozen bags a day. They keep their hands all the
year, with the exception of three weeks. Some work by machine and some
by hand. They take learners when busy. A smart girl can learn in making
two or three dozen bags—of course, is not paid while learning. They used
to allow a few hands, accustomed to the work, to give instruction to
learners, having the profits of their work for their time. Those that work by
machine can earn from $3 to $4.50; hand sewers from $3 to $6. These work
by the piece. Those paid by the week work ten hours, and earn from $2.50
to $5. The gentleman thinks the prospect for learners to enter the business is

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poor. I think differently, if the statement that he made is true, that there are
no manufacturers West or South. A regulation that struck me as being very
unjust was, that if a girl learns in their factory and goes elsewhere to seek
work, she cannot be taken into their factory again, unless she makes eight or
ten dozen bags for them without pay. A manufacturer of carpet and oil-cloth
bags writes: "We pay by the piece, and women earn from $4 to $6 per week,
working ten hours a day. Women can learn in one month, if skilful with the
needle. Spring and fall are the best seasons, but we find work for our hands
through the winter. They work at home."
183. Cassimere. A manufacturer of cassimere in New Hampshire writes:
"We pay mostly by the week, $3.50, working eleven hours a day. We pay
the same to women as men. It requires from two to twelve weeks to learn.
They are paid what they can earn while learning. There is no surplus of
workwomen in this branch of labor. Our girls board in families, and pay
$1.34 per week." A manufacturer in Vermont says: "Twenty women are
employed by me. They are all American or English. They are paid
according to the amount of work they do. Girls that weave make $3, besides
board. Some are paid by the yard, and some by the week. They are paid as
much as men for the same kind of work. It usually takes four weeks to learn
to weave. Learners give their time. Work is performed ten hours a day all
the year. Women prefer factory to housework. They pay $1.50 per week for
board." A manufacturer in New Hampshire writes: "We pay from $2.50 to
$4.50 per week. For the work that women can do in our establishment, they
are worth more than men, as they can work quicker. Women soon learn to
weave, but for the first six months they are not worth more than half pay.
The prospect for future employment is good. The best seasons for work are
spring, summer, and fall. They are usually employed ten hours a day. We
employ none but American women. Some parts of our business are suitable
for women, but we can get boys cheaper. Board $1.25 per week." B.
Brothers, of Proctorsville, Vermont, write: "We employ from thirty to forty
American women in preference to men, because the work is more suitable
for them. Prospects for increase of employment in this line are very
flattering. The women average $2.50 per week with board. They work
twelve hours a day, and can be employed all the year. They are superior in
all respects to men. If they were not, we should employ men. Their facilities

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for mental and moral culture are good. Women are paid less than men, on
account of the work being light. Board $1.50 per week." The Globe
Woollen Company (Utica, New York) write: "Our women, seventy-five in
number, earn from $3 to $6 a week, and are paid both by the piece and
week. Men and women work together in the weaving room. It requires but a
few days to learn to weave, although experience is valuable, both on
account of wages and excellence of production. Mental and physical ability
ought to be combined to insure success. The prospect for future
employment is good. Continual employment is given. Our hands work 12
hours each day, Saturdays 10½. One fourth are Americans, and they live
and dress well. The demand for labor is good all through the country. There
is no part of our business where women could be advantageously
introduced, where not now employed. The women have all the facilities a
city affords for mental and aesthetic culture."
184. Cloths. A manufacturer of gray cloth in Vermont writes: "Women
are employed at spinning, carding, burling, and weaving. We have ten,
because they are more easily obtained than men. We pay women from $2 to
$3.50 per week, and board them. They work twelve hours per day. The
work done by men requires more than double the experience of that
performed by women. Women can learn in four weeks, men in sixteen.
Women are paid half wages while learning. They are busy except in the
winter. All board with me." C. & Sons, of T., N. Y., write: "Experienced
hands receive $3.75 per week—inexperienced $3—board included. Women
are not employed at the same work as men. It requires two years to learn
our business—six months for women. We adopt the ten-hour system. There
is no difference in seasons as to work, except in case of low water. Our
labor yields sufficient to keep them until they find an opportunity to marry.
They have a good library—ten periodicals every week. They pay for board
from $1.50 to $1.75 per week." A manufacturer in Derby, Conn., writes:
"We employ about fifteen women, because they are cheaper and more
easily obtained; but many are now using male weavers. They earn from $3
to $6 per week, and are paid both ways. They work eleven hours. To work
ten instead of eleven hours, we would lose that amount of the product of
those who work by the day. I think there is a demand for such labor all
through New England, and I do not know where there is a surplus of such

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help. We have had but few whose parents were born in America. Women
might be employed on shearing machines. They are not, because it is as
easy getting boys. Women have less strength and endurance, and are less
constant at work, but quicker in motion and less liable to bad habits. Board
for females from $2.25 to $2.50 per week." A manufacturing company of
satinets and printing cloths, Troy, N. Y., give the following information:
"We pay from $2.50 to $6 per week, average $4.50. Men and women get
the same wages for the same work. Women learn in from two to four weeks.
At best it is but partially learned. Some are paid while learning, and some
are not. There is now, and always will be full employment. We furnish
steady work all the year. The hands work twelve hours per day. The time
could be shortened, but the workers would lose by it. There is a demand for
female labor of this kind in Cohoes, N. Y. We have sixty-nine women, and
one half are Americans. They are well fed and dress better than any other
class of working people. Women are more steady and neater than men.
They are all Protestant, and their intelligence is about the average. They pay
$1.50 per week for good board." The Monsoon Woollen Co., Mass., say:
"We pay fourteen mills per yard for weaving. The women make just the
same as the men, and perform the same kind of work. They earn on an
average eighty-three cents per day of twelve hours. The work can be done
without apprenticeship. The prospect is that our business will be on the
increase for years. Our help are employed the year round: three quarters are
Americans. They have their evenings after seven o'clock. They pay $2 per
week for board." The agent of Shady Lee Mills, R. I., writes: "Women are
employed in woollen mills in England, Germany, France, and this country.
They are paid in our mill by the piece, and earn $5 per week on an average.
Women weavers earn as much as men. It takes a lifetime to learn; some
learn better than others. Learners are paid. The business is improving daily.
Women work all the year round, unless broken down. They work twelve
hours a day. The time could not be shortened. The supply of hands about
equals the demand in this manufacture. We employ seventy-five women,
because they are better for weavers. Nearly all our work people can read
and write. Board $1.75." Mr. H., a manufacturer in Massachusetts, writes:
He "pays from $14 to $18 a month, working by the piece. While learning
they are paid for what they do. They can earn fair wages after two weeks'
experience. They work thirteen hours a day, and are employed through the

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year. There is no surplus of weavers. He employs twenty-five, because they
are better adapted to the work. Women are superior in hand work. Board $6
a month." A satinet manufacturer in Maine, writes: "Our women weave by
the cut and earn about $6 per week. A person can get an insight of the
business in a few years; but to get a thorough knowledge requires at least
the English term of apprenticeship—seven years. Women are paid half price
while learning. Summer is the best season, but our women are employed the
year round. They work twelve hours—which is the usual time here, and less
would be a loss. Women are handier than men, and can be boarded for less.
We have churches in the village and a good moral influence. Board $1.50
per week; comforts quite equal to those of their homes." Manufacturers in
Pittsfield, Mass., inform us "they have a number of women employed in
weaving and sewing, mostly weaving. The employment is considered
healthy, and the condition of weavers is entirely comfortable, as this is, of
course, for the interest of the employers as well as the employées. The
average time of work is thirteen hours. The wages paid them is from $4 per
week to $6. They are paid by the yard, and their earnings depend upon their
attention, activity, and capability. They are paid $3 a week while learning.
Women weavers earn quite as much as men, and can stand the confinement
as well, if not better. We have no difficulty in keeping our looms supplied,
and frequently have applications which we are obliged to reject. We employ
sixty women, nearly one half Americans. In this place they have every
advantage for moral and mental culture. Those who have parents or friends
working in the establishment usually live with them; and those who have
not, live at our boarding house, which is as comfortable and well regulated
as any house in the country. The price charged for board is from $1.25 to
$1.50 per week." A company in North Berwick, Me., writes: "We pay both
ways; when by the week, from $2.50 to $4. Males and females do not
perform the same kind of work with us. The time of learning varies with the
capacities of the women. Some of our hands have been with us more than
ten years. Seasons alike. They work eleven hours. We employ twenty-five
women, because it is more economical. Not one of our women will do
housework. Our employées are Yankee girls—can all read and write; and,
so far as we know, converse intelligently on general subjects. They have
their evenings and a portion of each Saturday. Board $1.33 ¹/3 per week."
We would add that every cotton and woollen manufacturer from whom we

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have heard, expresses the opinion that their occupation is healthy. All, we
believe, pay some hands by the week and some by the piece, and most pay
men and women at the same rate for the same kind of work. It will be
observed that the rates paid for labor decrease the farther you go North, but
that board is also something less.
185. Coverlets. A manufacturer of woollen coverlets in Allentown,
Penn., answers inquiries in regard to prices paid, &c., as follows: "I employ
eight American girls for spooling wool and cotton yarn in my coverlet
manufactory, and pay two cents per pound. They earn from $2 to $2.50 per
week. I pay girls the same as boys. The prospect for increase of work is
good. There is a surplus of hands here. I prefer girls, as they have more
patience than boys."
186. Dry Goods Refinishers. A. & Co. employ women when busy to put
up dress goods, cravats, ribbons, &c. They pay $3 a week. I was told by a
satinet printer and refinisher, that he employs one woman to sew the ends of
the cloth together. She does it with a machine, and earns $5 a week,
working ten hours a day. The coloring matter rubs off on the hands. S.
employs some women, and pays $3 a week. He gives them about eight
months' employment. During two months in summer and two in winter,
there is not enough doing to employ them. He says some women, like some
men, know nothing but how to eat. He finds it difficult to get women of
intelligence and judgment to do his work. (I should think he would, for such
wages.) The girls fold, label, and pack. There are but three large houses of
the kind in New York. At another place we saw a girl who gets $3 a week
for such work—ten hours a day.
187. Flannels. Flannels differ much in color and quality. Employers are
unanimous in pronouncing the work healthy. If the sum paid foreign
countries for flannels and blankets were invested in manufactories in our
country, it would give employment to many, and tend to encourage home
industry. A flannel manufacturer in Stockport, New York, writes: "We
employ women at weaving and spooling. Women and girls are paid mostly
by the piece, and earn from $3 to $5 per week. No males are employed at
the same work as females. It usually takes about a week to learn to weave.
We do not pay learners. We will increase the number of women as we

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increase our product. All seasons are alike as respects employment. Our
hands work twelve hours per day. The time could not be shortened without
loss to both employer and employed. We have about forty females, and
prefer them, as it gives the whole family work. Eight tenths are American.
The work is as light and comfortable as any in the mill. There is no other
work suitable than that in which they are now engaged. All our women can
read and write, and are already quite intelligent, particularly the Americans.
We do not employ many under sixteen years of age, and those younger are
usually sent to school a part of the year. Board is $6 per month in good,
respectable families." A manufacturer in Dover, Maine, replies to a circular
asking information: "I employ women as weavers, carders, spoolers, and
one as a warper-on to draw the web. Women earn from $2.75 to $5 per
week, eleven hours per day. Weavers are paid by the piece. I pay men from
83 cents to $1.50 per day. Women do the lighter and easier work. Some
parts are not adapted to women, that is one reason why we pay less, and
perhaps custom has something to do with the prices of labor. Women learn
their part in from one to six weeks, but it requires some years of experience
to be a manufacturer. For some kinds of work we pay from the beginning;
for others, after one or two weeks. The prospect is fair; work, constant. In
large manufacturing places, there is a demand for labor of this kind. Women
are employed because they work cheaper. Women do their kind of work
better than men. Our women are Americans, and appear to enjoy life well.
They have the early morning and evening, and the Sabbath for themselves.
More than one half are church members. Those that have relations living
near the factory, board with them, and pay $1.50 per week." A manufacturer
in Conway, Massachusetts, writes: "We employ women in weaving, burling,
sewing, and numbering flannels. They receive from 50 cents to $1 per day
of twelve hours. Women doing the same kind of labor as men receive the
same price. It requires from one to four weeks to learn. If our business does
not pay better in future than the past, we had better stop. In the more
difficult part of our work there is a demand for hands. Men make better
work than women. One fourth are American. Board, $1.50, to $1.75." A
manufacturer in Morgantown, New York, writes: "The employment is as
healthy as any indoor work. The wages average about $5 per week, they
being paid by the piece. It takes about four years to learn the business, so as
to conduct it in its several branches. I pay their expenses while learning.

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The best season is the fall. Work lasts ten hours—if obliged to run longer,
we pay extra. We think women more to be depended on than men. We have
no department suitable for women but what is filled by them. Board, $2 a
week—quite good. In the cities board is seldom over $2 per week for
workwomen. The rent and price of provisions are too high to keep a
boarding house as it should be on such terms. Our wages may be lower in
the country, but expenses are much lower also, and consequently the laborer
is able to save more money." Manufacturers in Keene, N. H., write: "We
pay one half $3, the other, $3.80 per week, twelve hours a day. We pay the
same to both sexes when the quantity and quality are the same. A carder
will learn in one month, a weaver in three months. The qualities wanted are
industry, sobriety, perseverance, constructiveness, and amiability. All
seasons alike good. To shorten the time of thirteen hours would be a loss to
both parties. All branches are well supplied with workers. Women have
more patience, tact, neatness, and are more reliable than men. All our
women are well fed, well clothed, well housed, and some possess the
luxuries, and even elegancies of life. We have six places of worship, a
public library, book stores, and newspapers in abundance. Board, $1.50."
188. Gloves. Kid, silk, cotton, and woollen are the kinds of gloves most
used. They differ much in quality. Kid and leather are most numerous. The
price of labor, the difficulty in obtaining the best kid, and the want of
experienced workmen, are such that the finest kid gloves have not been
made in the United States. An immense number of kid gloves are annually
imported. In Paris, women are paid from sixty cents to $1 a dozen for
sewing gloves. The French excel in the manufacture of kid gloves. French
workmen are very economical in cutting out the kid. In France 375,000
dozens of skins are cut into gloves every year. Nearly 3,500 female glove
sewers are employed in Vienna. Immense quantities of buckskin gloves and
mittens are made in Johnstown and Gloversville, New York. "Most
American manufactures have been introduced by sending the goods into the
country by peddlers, or the manufacturers themselves selling them in that
way. This trade was commenced so." The manufacture of buckskin gloves
and mittens is mostly confined to small towns and the country. The cutting
is done by men. The sewing is given out to those who do the work at home,
and receive for their labor from $1 to $6 per week. It requires but a few

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weeks to learn. A manufacturer of kid and buckskin gloves, in Philadelphia,
has all his sewing done by hand. He will not use machines for cutting out
and sewing, as it would throw many of his workwomen out of employment.
Those who are neat and intelligent obtain a very good livelihood by it. They
take the work home, and earn $6 a week or more; beginners only $1.50 or
$2. The kid is imported from South America, and not so fine as French kid.
A glove manufacturer, New York, who lived in Johnstown eighteen years,
told me that "girls can earn at glove sewing from $3 to $6 a week. Those
who board in the families of their employers receive less, because of their
board. Many gloves are made up by farmers' daughters at home, both by
hand and machine. A good sewer would not find it difficult to make gloves.
Most of the gloves made in factories are stitched by machines. Singer's and
Grover & Baker's are preferred. Handworkers do not receive quite so good
wages. Women used to cut out gloves with scissors, but now men cut them
by striking with a hammer a tool the shape of a glove. The plan is preferred,
because of being cheaper. The knowledge of dressing kid seems to be lost to
foreigners in coming over the ocean." A manufacturer in Springfield, Mass.,
writes: "We employ some women in making buckskin gloves and mittens.
Some work by the piece, and some by the week, and earn from $3 to $5.
Those who work by the week spend ten hours, sewing. It takes females
from two hours to four weeks to learn. Patience, perseverance, and taste are
needed by learners. The best season for work is from February to
November. They are out of work about two months at times. Most are
Americans. They can use a needle better than a man." A glover in Salem
writes: "Our women sew by hand, and earn $3 per week. Men spend three
years in learning—women six months. The prospect for work is poor, as
importation is destroying the business." A manufacturer at Gloversville
writes: "Women earn from $3 to $5 a week, ten hours a day. Males get as
much again as women. A smart woman will learn in eight months. Prospect
of work in the future is good." Manufacturers in Broadalbin, N. Y., write me
they employ twelve American women at the shop, and about one hundred
out of the shop, finishing up. When paid by the week, they receive from $2
to $4.50, and work ten hours a day. The comparison in prices in male and
female labor is about $2 to $1, for the reason that it requires more strength,
labor, and skill to perform the man's part. Men spend two or three years in
learning—women, six months. Punctuality, sobriety, and a liberal

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education, together with a steady nerve, will insure success in our business.
(Some one else suggests, mechanical talent.) As long as there are feet to
wear moccasins, and hands to wear gloves, our kind of business must
thrive. Board in neat and commodious houses, $2 for women." A glover in
New Hampshire writes: "Women sew by the piece for me; most have
families, do their own work, and sew when they can—so I cannot say how
much they would earn, if they sewed constantly. A man would have to
spend from two to four years qualifying himself to superintend; the part
done by women can be learned in from two to six weeks. Summer is the
best season, but good workers have constant employment. All are
Americans. Any locality is good where water power may be had. Ladies
pay for board from $1.50 to $1.70 per week." Another in Perth, N. Y., says:
"Some of our workers use sewing machines; others fit and prepare the
goods for them. They earn from $3 to $4.75. The male and female labor is
different in our establishment. I think the business permanent. Best time for
work is from 1st of March to 1st of November. They work all daylight,
except at meal times. When a certain amount of work is required in a given
time, the women are apt to overwork themselves and slight the work. The
wives and daughters of mechanics and farmers do the piecework at their
homes. All Americans. Board, from $1.75 to $2." "At Gloversville the men
cut, and machines do the sewing. Five pair of mits and two pair of gloves
are a heavy days work. Gloves are worth 75 cents per day to cut; and to
make from 12½ cents for a light article, to 18 cents for heavy ones."—

Woollen Gloves.

I was told by a man who employed eight girls to crochet woollen gloves for
him, that he pays fifty cents a dozen pairs. He makes over five cents profit
on a pair when selling to the wholesale stores; and in retailing, nine cents a
pair. He says a right expeditious girl can make one dozen pairs a day. He
employs his girls all the year. Most that attempt to learn find their progress
so slow that they get discouraged, and give it up. It is best to learn early in
life. The Germans excel.

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189. Linseys. An agent for a manufacturing company of linseys and
flannels in Rhode Island, writes: "I employ fifty-eight women in spooling
yarn and weaving, and pay from $3 to $5 a week. Our men are paid $1 per
day, because they are able to do more. Men run three looms; girls, two. The
organs that manufacture vitality in women are not allowed, by lacing
strings, to attain more than two thirds their natural size. If nature could have
her way with them, especially when young, they would earn more in the
weaving shop than men, because they are naturally quicker and smarter.
They are paid something while learning, which requires three months. Good
female workers have always been scarce since I have been in the business
—twenty years. We might employ more, if we could get them. April, May,
and June are the most busy seasons. They work twelve hours. To shorten the
time two hours would make one sixth difference, which the work people
would not be willing to lose. We have more families than single help. Those
who board pay from $1.75 to $2.25 per week. The boarding houses have to
be helped by us, to enable them to take boarders at these prices." Mr. T.,
writing from Rhode Island, mentions, in addition to the branches stated
above as performed by women, that of warping. He informs us, the work is
not more unhealthy than housework, but complains that his women are
careless, in bad weather, going to and from the mill. "Wages, when running
full time, average from $3.75 to $6 per week. Weavers are paid by the yard,
spoolers by the bunch, warpers by the web, and extra hands by the week.
Men's wages are from 75 cents to $1.25 per day, but men's board is from 50
to 75 cents per week more. The prospect for work in the future depends
upon the state of the country. Spring and summer are the best seasons for
work. From March 20th to October 20th, the hands work from seven to
seven; from October to March, until 8 P. M. Their wages are according to
the number of yards woven; so of course it is to their interest, as well as our
own, to run full time. We find male labor scarcer than female. Most of our
hands are Americans. Our mills are well ventilated and well warmed. The
company have a boarding house under their own supervision, but the
women are at liberty to board in private families, and some do. The
majority of young ladies in our employ are farmers' daughters, not really
compelled to work, but prefer to do it, and in most instances use the means
for obtaining an education. Instrumental music is taught in a seminary near
the mill, by a young lady, who obtained her education with the means

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gained by working in this mill. We have from one to three nights every
week devoted to literary societies, reading circles, &c., in all of which, the
ladies from this and neighboring mills take an active part. Some eight or ten
who worked at the mill during the summer are now attending school. Board
$2.25 for men; $1.75 for women." The proprietor of the Kenyon mills, R. I.,
writes: "Probably one half the operatives in mills, in this part of the world,
are women. Weavers are paid by the yard, and earn from $3 to $6 per week.
Men are generally hired by the day. An intelligent woman will be able to
run her loom after two or three weeks' practice. It is common to put learners
on looms with experienced weavers for two or three weeks. From 20th
March to 20th September, my working time is from sunrise to sunset, the
remainder of the year, until eight o'clock in the evening. My weavers prefer
to work full time as they are paid by the yard. There is generally a demand
for good weavers in this part of the country all the year. Weavers make most
money in summer. Large mills are being supplied with foreign help. Very
few Americans are willing to work with them. Women are employed in
mills on all kinds of work which they can do, and are preferred because
they are more steady. Nearly all my mill girls are daughters of farmers in
the neighborhood, and have had a fair common school education. Several of
my weavers take newspapers or other periodicals, and carry them into the
mill to read, when they can do so without interfering with their work. Some
take sewing or knitting. Board $1.75 for women; $2.25 for men. If we did
not keep comfortable boarding houses, our help would find employment in
other places. Any smart, good girls, who want work, need have no
hesitation in coming to Rhode Island to look for work in mills."
190. Woollen Shawls. The secretary of the Waterloo Woollen Shawl
Company writes: "Women are employed by us in weaving, carding, &c.
The work is not unhealthy. It is paid for mostly by the piece, and hands earn
from $2.50 to $3 per week. Most of them earn as much as males; and some,
more. They are employed twelve hours. Skill, industry, and good character
are necessary. The prospect of future employment is good. There is no
difference in the seasons for work. In weaving there is no surplus. We
employ two hundred and fifty women, because they do better work than
men. We employ but very few young girls, and they generally work at home

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under the eyes of parents, and attend school at least four months in the
year."
191. Shoddy. At flock or shoddy manufactories, girls are employed to
separate rags of different qualities and colors, and to cut the seams and
buttons off. The rags are placed in machines and cut to pieces, then put in
other machines that grind them to flocks. From them satinet is made.
Women are paid so much one hundred pounds, and earn from $1.50 to $3
per week. They are busy all the year. It is dirty work, and, I think,
unwholesome on account of the dust. Boys attend the machinery for cutting
and grinding, and are paid about the same wages as the girls, and probably a
little more. Girls could just as well attend the machines. Modern
improvements have made wool shoddy susceptible of receiving a fine dye,
and it is made into cloth for soldiers' and sailors' uniforms, and for pilot
coats; into blanketing, drugget, stair and other carpeting, and into very
beautiful table covers. A manufacturer of wool shoddy in Massachusetts
writes: "I employ Irish women at $3 per week, of eleven hours a day in
winter and twelve in summer. Men receive $6 per week. Women cannot
perform their labor. It requires two weeks to learn. They receive small
wages the first two or three weeks. The business is probably permanent.
The work is hard. Women do best for picking and sorting stock and tending
cards. They pay $1.50 a week for Irish fare."
192. Yarn. A manufacturer of stocking yarn, in Spring Valley, New York,
writes: "Girls are employed in twisting and reeling yarn. The employment is
not unhealthy. We pay some by the piece, and some by the week; those by
the week receive $2.50. The wages are the same for men and women. To
learn the whole business requires from three to five years; that part done by
girls, from one to two months. They are paid while learning. The prospect
of employment is as good as that of business generally. Our girls work the
year round; they work eleven hours. To shorten the time would be a
disadvantage to us, and a loss in wages to the hands. Boys would do for us,
but are not so easily governed. The work is easy and comfortable." A yarn
manufacturer in Stoughton, Mass., writes me: "I pay $2 per week, and
furnish board to those that twist and card. The labor of the women is much
cleaner and easier than that of the men. Men receive from $1 to $1.75 per

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day, board included. I charge them $2.50 per week—women $1.75. Much
of the men's labor requires strength, knowledge, and skill. It requires two or
three months to learn it well. Women work, on an average, eleven hours and
a half. I should like the ten-hour system, but cannot adopt it, unless others
do the same. The supply of hands is adequate to the demand. Ladies have
done some parts of our work, now performed by men, and have received
equal wages; but the labor being hard, and women's dress being
inconvenient, we have abandoned the plan."

193. Silk Manufacture.

The duty on raw silk is so very great that it will not do to import it into the
United States for manufacture. We suppose, if a duty in proportion to their
value were levied on silk and linen goods, we would no longer be so
dependent on other nations for these articles. Or if a reduction were made
on the duty of the raw material, capitalists would establish silk
manufactures in the United States. Individual failures here are attributed by
some to ignorance and want of experience; by others, to the nature of the
climate. The support afforded by our Government to the culture of silk has
been very fickle—to-day encouraged, to-morrow neglected. The
experiments that have been made prove the feasibility of growing the
mulberry, and raising the silkworm in this climate. The silk produced was of
good quality, and, but for imperfect implements and want of experience,
might have done well. The cheapness of labor in older countries affords an
advantage that we have not. Most of the raw silk manufactured in the
United States comes from China. The women there rear silkworms; they
also reel and weave the silk. Not many years back silk winding was done by
men in England. "In the silk factories in France, there are two unwholesome
processes entirely carried on by women: the first is the drawing of the
cocoons, when the hands must be kept constantly in boiling water, and the
odor of the putrefying insects constantly fills the lungs; the second is
carding the floss, the fine lint of which affects the bronchial tubes. Six out
of every eight women employed, die in a few months. Healthy young girls
from the mountains soon develop tubercular consumption; and, to complete
the dreadful tale, they are kept upon the lowest wages, being paid only

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twenty cents, where a man would earn sixty." "One silk manufacturer in
Valencia, Spain, gives employment to 170 women and young girls." In
Lyons, France, many women are employed in the silk manufacture, for
particulars of which see Revue des Deux Mondes, Feb. 15th, 1860. Silk
weavers mostly work in attics, where they can have the best light to
distinguish shades of colors, and where the silk, which moisture would
damage, can be kept perfectly dry. In Spitalfields, the silk manufacture is
mostly carried on by the workmen at their homes, their families assisting.
Each child has his own branch, and the wife hers. It is the same case in the
making of lace, artificial flowers, embroidery, straw braiding, &c. The
strength of silk is greater than that of cotton, flax, or wool. Machinery is
now employed for winding the silk off of cocoons, but formerly it was done
by hand. Mrs. O. told us her husband employs a few girls to spool silk,
which he dyes for a large dress trimming manufactory next door. The girls
earn from $2 to $3 a week. The pasting of patterns of floss silk upon cards
was done by men a few years ago in England, but women, after great effort,
have succeeded in gaining the work, so much more suitable for them. "A
lady in Jefferson county, Ia., has made herself a handsome silk dress from
cocoons of her own raising." A manufacturer of silk goods in Paterson,
N. J., writes: "We mostly employ girls from twelve to eighteen. The work is
not unhealthy. Average pay is $3 per week. To learn, a girl must be about
twelve years of age; it takes about two months. Pay begins after two weeks.
To learn, one should be smart with her hands, and careful with the material.
There is a good prospect ahead for weavers. All seasons are good, except
during a panic. They work twelve hours. The time could not be shortened
conveniently. If other States worked less time, we could too. We employ a
hundred girls and twenty-five boys. Seventy-five per cent. are American.
Board, $1.75. Women could be employed more extensively in weaving.
Men are employed upon the spinners, women in winding, &c."
194. Ribbons. In England, formerly, a woman was not at all engaged in
ribbon weaving, as the men thought it an encroachment on their sphere of
labor; nor were they even allowed to wind silk preparatory to its use in
weaving. Manufacturers of ribbon in West Newton, Massachusetts, write:
"We employ from forty to eighty women, and prefer them to men in all
departments they are fitted for. They are paid by the week, and earn from $2

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to $6, according to the value of their work. It requires from six months to a
year to learn the business. Women are paid something while learning. Good
character and fair capacity are needed. Our women work eleven hours. If
the time was reduced to ten, the loss would be the use of machinery. There
is a surplus of hands in New York, by reason of immigration. Women are
inferior in mechanical skill, superior in steadiness."
195. Sewing Silk. The first factory for spinning silk in this country was
established in Northampton, Massachusetts. There are 156 hands in
Massachusetts, engaged in the manufacture of sewing silk. Two other
factories have been established since then in Paterson, New Jersey; one for
the manufacture of the raw silk, and the other the manufacture of sewing
silks, fringes, gimps, and tassels. There is a manufactory in Mansfield,
Connecticut, and one in Newport, Kentucky. Most of the sewing silk used
in this country under the name of Italian silk is made by American
manufacturers. An agent for the manufacture of twist in Paterson, New
Jersey, told me their best hands do not earn over $3.50 a week and work
eleven hours. They try girls, that wish to learn, two weeks, and if they find
them fitted for the work, pay $1 a week. There is no danger from the
machinery as in cotton factories, nor has it the unhealthy tendency of
cotton, as there are no particles flying from the material like the lint that
flies from cotton. It does not require an apt person long to learn. The girls
stand all the time. They have to watch the machinery, and tie the threads
that break. The agent said, in the Eastern States girls are paid better in silk
factories, but they are more competent workers. There some earn from sixty
to eighty cents per day. The work is neat and clean. Some manufacturers of
sewing machine silk and twist write me from Boston: "We employ fifty
women winding and twisting silk. They work eleven hours in winter and
twelve in summer, and earn from $3 to $6 per week. Some are paid by the
piece and some by the week. Men are paid from $1 to $2.50 a day. Integrity
and activity are wanted. The prospect for future employment is good. They
work at all seasons. One fourth are Americans. No parts of our occupation
are suitable for women but those in which they are engaged." A sewing silk
manufacturer in Paterson, N. J., writes: "Our women are engaged in
winding and doubling the raw silk and finishing, in skeins and on spools,
the dyed material. The work is generally considered healthy. Many children,

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boys and girls, from ten years and upward, are employed—say forty per
cent. of the whole force of help; children at $1 per week—women at $3 and
$4. They work sixty-nine hours to the week. State rights prevent the
shortening of the time. Each State makes its own laws on the subject, and
no unanimity exists. Males and females are employed up to a certain age,
say fifteen years, indiscriminately; girls always preferred. The time of
learning depends upon the quickness of the hand; some learn in two or three
days, some again can scarcely learn at all. The rule of the trade is not to pay
learners. It depends on circumstances whether we pay. In brisk times we
have about sixty (including children)—women about forty—perhaps less.
About half are Americans. Crinoline is in the way to prevent women from
performing other parts of the labor. Women are cheaper. Men could not be
got, and could scarcely do the work, if they could. Yet no particular
qualifications are required. The prospect for an increase of this manufacture
depends upon congressmen and the tariff. The best seasons are immediately
after the New Year's and Fourth of July holidays." In France, some girls are
employed to wind the raw silk from cocoons, and some spin it into skeins of
silk. In Dublin, many women are employed in the winding and picking of
silk used in making poplin. Near Algiers is an orphan asylum, from which a
large number of girls have been apprenticed to a gentleman who owns a silk
winding mill in the vicinity. The girls work twelve hours a day.

196. Lace Makers.

Large numbers of women are employed in lace making in Belgium, France,
Ireland, and England. A normal lace school was established in Dublin in
1847. Lace makers are very closely confined, and in busy times many spend
from twelve to twenty hours at their work. Lace making requires care,
quickness, and dexterity. Rev. Mr. Hanson mentions the fact that, in
Liverpool, there are three Roman Catholic institutions aided by the Privy
Council for the industrial training of girls: one, attended by forty pupils, is a
laundry; another is a lace school, attended by one hundred and sixty-six; the
third, attended by twenty-six, trains domestic servants. Lace making is so
injurious to the eyes that, at forty, very few can carry it on without
spectacles. In England the process of winding is conducted by young

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women, while boys are mostly employed as lace threaders. Their condition
is a wretched one. Women are mostly employed as lace runners or
embroiderers. Mending, drawing, pearling, and joining are mostly done by
young children. An interesting account of the business is given in Charlotte
Elizabeth's story of the "Lace Runners": "It is proved by unquestionable
evidence, that in lace making it is customary for children to work at the age
of four or five and six years; and instances are found in which a child, only
two years old, was set to work by the side of its mother." The present
condition of most of the laboring classes in England is far more depressing
and exhausting than the slavery that exists among the colored population of
the United States. "The powers of production of a machine for making laces
are to hand labor nearly as 30,000 to 5." C. says he and his wife are the only
makers of hand lace in the United States, and he has been nine years in the
business here. He says, making the figures is most difficult; and he showed
me one figure he asked but twenty-eight cents for, that he stated it would
require a day and a half to make. I wish I had offered to buy it. He employs
a number of girls to put the figures on some kind of a foundation for collars,
sleeves, and capes. They also transfer, mend lace, and do other such work.
He says, making figures does not pay as well as the other parts, and it
would not pay for the salt you use on your potatoes. He does not have lace
made, except now and then a figure that cannot be obtained, to fill out a
piece that is being transferred or altered, and for which the lady is willing to
pay a good price. He says laces are made so much cheaper in the old
country, that when imported, paying even a duty of twenty or twenty-five
per cent., they are sold as cheap as those he makes. He says he pays his girls
nearly twice as much as they are paid in Europe. His report I thought
contradictory, and supposed he feared competition. I was told by an English
woman, who had been accustomed to making lace from six years of age
until the last ten, that it takes seven or eight years to learn lace making in all
its parts. She says there are twenty-one processes gone through with in
making every kind but pillow lace, in which there are but five processes.
When she was a child, none but common laces were made in France, and
the making of their finest laces they learned from the English, who went
over to France.

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197. Lace Menders. I called on M. W., a lace mender. "In New York, she
has received from one store, Mme. G.'s, from $20 to $25 a week for work.
She thinks in a few years very little work will be ordered from the stores; it
will be done by those who make a business of it. The stores derive a
handsome profit. She did a piece for one store for $3, that she knows the
lady paid $5 for having done; and another piece at $3, that the lady paid $10
for—the storekeeper having such profits for nothing but merely sending it
to the lace transferrer. She makes a comfortable living, but works at night as
well as through the day. It has injured her eyes and made her nervous. She
has had two little girls learning to mend, alter, and transfer lace; one
received her board and clothing for her work for three years. One girl, that
spent two years with her, is now obtaining a livelihood by her work. She
thinks if a bright, steady girl of thirteen should spend two years at it, and
then have friends to start her in business, she would be well able to support
herself. Lace mending is a separate branch from lace making. In England, if
a person can obtain the names of one or two wealthy families, it will at once
establish them in business. In doing up lace, little girls can put the pins in
the edges to keep it in place until dried. C. and Mme. G., she says, pay her
as her customers would, but she prefers establishing herself, and does not so
well like store work. Her customers recommend her to their friends, and so
she will gradually become known. Lace mending is a nice, clean,
respectable business, and can be done at home."

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198. Hair Cloth Manufacture.

"There is some competition in the sale of foreign and domestic hair cloth.
The American is of a better quality, and on that ground only are
manufacturers able to compete with foreigners, the duty on hair cloth being
low. When the hair has been separated from the short hair used for curling,
it goes into the more delicate fingers of the hair drawers, who sort it into
lengths, each length corresponding to the width of the cloth to be woven.
We have seldom seen any mechanical operation requiring more dexterity or
constant attention than this. The girls engaged in this work make from $3 to
$3.50, and sometimes $4 a week. The weaving is done by hand looms, each
worked by two girls—one to handle the hook (answering the purpose of a
shuttle), and the other to serve the hair. The prices paid for weaving vary
from twenty to thirty-two cents per yard. The average, including plain and
figured cloth, is twenty-four cents. A fair average day's work is four or five
yards. But this requires two hands, you must remember; so that perhaps a
fair estimate of the wages of hair cloth weavers would be from fifty to
sixty-two and a half cents per day. The labor is severe, and we should think
it impossible, without injury to the health, for young women to work at it
more than two thirds of the time." At a hair-cloth manufactory in New York,
I was told they employ one hundred girls. The proprietor says they have
work all the year. He never knew a woman at the business that could not
find employment. The first month they do not receive anything for their
work, but after that can earn from $3 to $5 per week. It is paid for by the
yard. The more practice a worker has, the better she succeeds. I think it
must be dirty work. Another manufacturer told me it does not require long
to learn to weave hair cloth, but some time to do it well. He pays $5 per
week, but their time is not limited to ten hours. The girls, I saw, were pale
and filthy. He thinks the business is likely to extend, and, consequently, the
prospect of employment to women in that field of labor is good. He keeps
his girls all the year. The Providence Hair Cloth Co. write: "Women are
employed in weaving our hair cloth. Every hair has to be put in separately
by the fingers of the girl. The only disadvantage to the health of the girl is
the close application in sitting so long. We pay our girls thirteen cents per

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yard for weaving. It requires about two weeks or one month before a girl
becomes sufficiently accustomed to the work to weave on full speed. We
pay them while learning. No qualifications needed, only general neatness
and upright moral character. All seasons are alike. We work only ten hours.
Thirty girls have each one loom with which to work; one girl mends the
cloth, and three shave and trim the same—making thirty-four in all. One
half are American. Women are in all respects superior to men in weaving—
same as in cotton looms."

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METAL MANUFACTURES.

199. Iron.

"The great heat to be endured and the severe muscular power required,
preclude women from the manufacture of iron goods. They are not directly
employed, and to a small extent indirectly. We think when women have to
perform what is unquestionably man's work, it lowers the standard of
female character instead of elevating, and nothing is more disagreeable than
to be constantly employed at labor uncongenial to one's nature." From the
United States census we learn that in 1850 there were engaged in the
manufacture of pig iron 20,298 males, 150 females; in the manufacture of
casting iron, 23,541 males, 48 females; in the manufacture of wrought iron,
16,110 males, 138 females. We do not know exactly how these women were
employed. The work in rolling mills is very severe and the heat intense. The
men have their limbs cased in tin sheaths above their knees. The vast capital
required to develop the mineral resources of a country, and the comparative
newness of our country, have hitherto prevented more than a partial
development of its resources. Many women are employed in dressing and
sorting ore in Great Britain.
200. Files. The notches in files are made by a chisel acted on by a
hammer held in the hand. The edge thrown up in making the notch assists
the workman in putting the chisel in the right place, and keeping it there
while he cuts the next notch. "It is peculiar that hitherto no machine has
been constituted, capable of producing files which rival those cut by the
human hand." From a manufacturer in Massachusetts, we learn that "he
employs from four to six girls in cutting fine work files, cleaning, and
wrapping up, &c. They are largely employed in England. The work is
considered healthy. They receive from $3 to $4.50 per week of ten hours a
day. Men and women are paid equal wages for the same kind of work. It
requires from six months to two years to learn. The prospect for a small

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number in each factory is good. There is work every day in the year. It is
quite a new business in this country. Women are neater and more particular
with their work than men. They could do some other parts that are suitable
for them, but they would soil their hands too much." A file manufacturer
writes me: "Women are paid by the piece in cutlery—in other departments
by the day; when by the piece, they receive as much as men; when by the
day, one half. It would require three or four years to learn. Most women
cannot cut any but small files as well as men, as they have not sufficient
muscular power in the hands and fingers. Women are taught in Sheffield,
England, by their fathers and brothers, and have what they earn. Good
eyesight and stout nerves are the requisites for a learner. No prospect of
employment in our business at present. The best localities for manufactures
are where files are wanted, in New England and the middle States."
201. Guns. One manufacturer writes: "I hardly know whether the work
could be done by women. It is difficult to learn and hard to practise." A
gunsmith told me, guns could be polished by women. They are polished by
hand. A manufacturer of guns writes: "I have no women employed in my
factory. It is not common for them to work at this business in America,
although many of them are employed by gun makers in foreign countries."
202. Hinges. A manufacturer of hinges writes: "We employ no women in
our manufactory. There are portions of the work that might be done by
females as well as male labor. Still we have not adopted the plan." A
manufacturer writes from New Britain, Connecticut: "We employ women in
packing goods, and making brass hinges, and pay from thirty-eight to sixty-
five cents per day of ten hours. We formerly paid women $1.50 per day. We
now get the same amount done by girls for sixty-five cents. We employ
them because the work is light, and we can get it done at that price. The part
done by women requires one month to learn. The prospect for this work in
future is good. Spring and fall are the best seasons, but our hands are
employed the year round. Other parts of the work could be done by women
if they were willing, but the work is dirty. They are superior to men in the
same branch, as they handle the work quicker, and are, as a general thing,
more steady and reliable. The housework here is mostly done by Irish girls,
while American girls prefer working in shops, even at less wages. There are

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many other branches of our work that might be done by females, for which
we pay men $1 and $1.25 per day; but the work is rather dirty, and few here
would do it, as they can have cleaner work, and we have never sought that
kind of help on that account."
203. Locks. "The Newark Lock Company" employ eight American girls
in packing hardware. They are paid by the week, from $3 to $5, and average
half the pay of men, who do more laborious work. Women spend six or
eight months learning. Activity and neatness are desirable qualities. Women
excel in both qualities. We expect to double our business in a year or two.
The women work ten hours per day, and have steady employment. Two
thirds of all the locks used in the United States are made in the five large
lock manufactories of Connecticut. The best locality is near the great
emporium, and on tide water, to save freight. Board $2.50." The secretary of
the Eagle Lock Company writes: "We employ from one hundred and fifty to
two hundred men, and only twenty girls. Our work is not suitable for
females, except to pack our locks in paper ready for market. They work by
the piece, and can earn from $10 to $25 per month, according to how they
employ themselves. They are mostly daughters of men employed by us, and
board at home. They are all Yankee girls. We only work ten hours, unless
business is driving." "Hardware manufacturers in Cromwell, Connecticut,
pay eight women from 50 to 62½ cents per day for packing. They work ten
hours a day. The work can be learned in one month. The prospect of work in
future is good. Board $1.62 per week." Manufacturers in N. Britain write:
"We pay by the day from 50 to 60 cents, ten hours' work. Women are not
generally better paid than they now are, because they compete with each
other so much in the light, easy, and clean branches of labor, and meet
competition in light work from boys. Their time of learning is from six
months to a year, and half never learn. They are paid while learning. An eye
for putting up work true to the square, and quick fingers, are the most
essential qualifications. The business is constantly increasing. Work is the
same, or nearly so, at all seasons. Girls employed by us have every personal
comfort and convenience that is possible, and are paid as much as men for
the same labor. Most of our work is more or less greasy and dirty from iron
and brass filings. Girls usually have less natural mechanical intelligence,
we think. It may be, however, that the want is from their inexperience in

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mechanical branches. Our impressions are that New England is the place
for manufacturing small wares, requiring great activity and industry. Our
workers have the use of a public library and lectures free. Board, $7 to $8
per month—thirty to thirty-one days." A manufacturer of trunk castors, in
Massachusetts, writes me that he once employed girls to paint castors, and
put them in packages for the dealers.
204. Nails. Making wrought nails is too hard work for women. A
manufacturing company of nails, in Boston, write me there are no women
employed in the nail factories of New England. The work is exceedingly
heavy. Another manufacturing company write, they have never known of
women being employed in making nails in any country. But we know that
in France, women are employed in turning the wheel in making nails, and at
Sedgley, E., and the neighboring villages, the number of girls employed in
nail making considerably exceeds that of the boys. In England, the part
done by girls is attending machinery that splits iron into the proper widths
for nails.
205. Rivets. A manufacturer writes: "We believe no manufacturer
employs women in our particular branch of industry. The business requires
great strength and exposure to furnaces." The writer suggests that in iron
moulding, perhaps a new career might be opened for women. "Innumerable
small castings are now being made, such as buckles, eyes, rings, &c., for
harness making. As this work is exceedingly light, requiring skilful
manipulation, it might be within the scope of women to undertake this
branch of industry." The casting is dangerous. The mixture of gases in the
hot metal sometimes produces a blowing—that is, the metal is thrown into
the air, falling oftentimes on the workers, penetrating their clothes and
burning them. A woman's clothes would be unsuitable for this work. The
moulding is very light, easy work, and we think as suitable for women as
most mechanical labor.
206. Screws. The processes in making screws are forging, turning up,
nicking, worming, and tipping. The cutting and polishing of screws, in
Birmingham, are chiefly done by women. The machinery used requires care
and delicacy.

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207. Skates. Skate manufacturers in Maine write: "We employ from ten
to twelve ladies to stitch skate leathers, for about two months in the year,
November and December. They are paid by the piece, and average 50 cents
a day. All are Americans. Board, $1.50 per week. In the New England
States, more American women are employed than foreigners, particularly in
country towns."
208. Shovels. A shovel manufacturer says he employs boys to clean the
handles, by holding them as they run over emery belts. He pays the boys $3
a week. For varnishing the iron part of the shovel he pays 10 cents a dozen,
and "yesterday a youth was able to do twenty-one dozen." This branch of
work, we think, might be done by strong women.
209. Wire Workers. I was told at a wire manufactory, New York, that
women are never employed to draw wire. If it be true that wire drawers are
a very rough, coarse set of men, it is well girls do not work in the
establishments; as the work is such, we presume, that all must be employed
in the same apartments. The labor of drawing is such that the hands of the
men become almost like iron. Mr. S., Philadelphia, employs a woman to
weave fine wire. She learned it in her native country, Scotland. She also
sews pieces of fine wire cloth together. She receives $5 a week, and seldom
works ten hours a day. Most men and women engaged in wire work are
English or Irish, who learned the trade in their own country. I was told it
requires some years to attain excellence. Weaving requires considerable
strength in both upper and lower limbs. Men wire workers are paid from
$1.50 to $2.50 a day. Mr. C., New York, employs a number of women
weavers and seamers. They are paid $4 a week. Formerly their girls would
want a day to go to a picnic, to get ready for a party, or help their mothers at
home. The steam would have to be stopped unless they could get hands to
fill their places during the time, which was very difficult and often could
not be done. For a while their women gave them so much trouble, they had
to stop the machinery altogether. It caused him such annoyance that some of
the female members of his family learned, and are now employed. He
employs women to cover steel for hoop skirts, and pays $3 a week. A few
women are employed at wire weaving in Cincinnati. The wiring and making
of bird cages seems to me a field of industry open to female hands. They

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can be made in any place, and the work is light. Wire could be woven in
fenders by women, I think. Mr. C., maker of patent rat traps, employed a
number of girls to lace the wires. Some he paid by the week, some by the
piece. They mostly earned $3 a week. A small girl could learn it in two
weeks. I saw a manufacturer of wire stands for cloaks, mantillas, &c. He
employs a few ladies to dress them, paying 25 cents apiece. One of his
hands is very expeditious and can cover six in a day. Those that know
nothing of the work, he employs in making skirts only, and of course make
less. February, March, August, September, and October are the busy
months. There are only three places in New York where the work is done. A
wire maker, in Lowell, writes: "I employed a girl four years ago in wire
weaving, that gave unqualified satisfaction. She left, to obtain a college
education. I paid by the piece when I employed her, and at the same rates as
I paid men. She used to earn $1 a day, and even did so while attending
school; but of course worked before and after school—probably seven or
eight hours a day. Most of my work is too laborious for women; but some
wire workers that make meal sieves, corn parchers, &c., can, and I believe
do, employ them to advantage, by reason of the price of labor being much
less for women than men. This kind of business is limited. There are not
more than one hundred and fifty men and women, probably, working at the
business in New England. A maker of sieves, and wire goods in general,
writes from Worcester, Massachusetts: "The business is quite healthy
compared with needle work. I employ six women, who earn from $4 to $5
per week of ten hours a day. Men earn from $7.50 to $12. Some goods we
manufacture will not justify us in paying women higher prices. (The women
should not do it. They would then have to employ men and pay better
prices, when women could come in and claim equal wages.) Our kind of
work they learn in a few weeks. There will be no falling off, in future, of
this work. Most girls like the work. Board, $2 per week in families." A wire
manufacturer in Belleville, New Jersey, writes: "We employ females in
sewing and winding wire. The employment is not unhealthy. We pay from
$2.50 to $4.50 per week. Learners receive $2.50 per week. Board, $2 to
$2.50. Men in our establishment average $2 per day. I would say that in
some branches of our business, women might take the place of men."

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Brass Manufacture.

In some branches of the brass manufacture women are not at all employed
—in a few others, they are. At a brass bell foundery, we were told the work
is not healthy, and is too heavy for women.
210. Candlesticks. A manufacturer of candlesticks in Vermont "employs
from three to four women, because they are better adapted to the work than
men. He pays by the piece, from $13 to $15 per month, and employs them
the year round. Women are paid as well as men or boys at the same kind of
work. It requires from three to five years to learn the business—from one to
two years, that part done by women. Women are paid small wages while
learning. It is a clean, comfortable business. There are no parts of our work
suitable for women in which they are not employed."
211. Hooks and Eyes. The agent of the Waterbury Hook and Eye
Company says: "The hooks and eyes are given out to families to put on
cards, for which they are paid by the gross. It pays poorly—probably not
more for a child than 50 cents a week. The country and villages around
supply plenty of girls for the factories. In good times the hands in the
factories are kept employed all the year. We employ three females to pack
our finished light work, which is as neat and healthy work as can be in any
pleasant factory—pay is $3.50 to $4.50 per week of sixty hours. No males
are employed on similar work. Supply and demand regulate prices. Only a
short time is required by a competent girl to learn to do our work properly;
and pay commences when they commence. Every good qualification which
'flesh is heir to' is needed to make the right sort of help. Prospect for
employing more females than heretofore is not flattering. Girls are
preferable for any light, neat, tasty work. Ours are Americans, and I believe
as comfortable and happy as people are likely to be on this sinful globe. I
doubt if much of our other work can be done by females. A place nearest to
a large market, where good air and water prevail and means of living are
reasonable, is the most desirable place to locate a factory, ordinarily.
Churches, schools, libraries, lectures, &c., afford ample means and
opportunity for mental and moral culture, for those who work ten hours a
day, and can board for $2 a week, and are free from any special cares or
anxieties." N. S. & Co., North Britain, write: "We employ nine women to

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make paper boxes, and pack hooks and eyes. They earn from 60 cents to $1
per day of ten hours, but are paid by the piece. The men earn from $1.15 to
$3 per day; but their work is different from the women's. The women learn
their part in two or three weeks. Industry and self-respect are the most
desirable qualities. The prospect for future employment is good. They work
all the year. Board, $2 per week."
212. Lamps. Mr. J. "used to employ girls to cement the glass body on the
marble stand, and the top of the body on the metal through which the wick
passes. He also employed them in papering to send away. The prospect for
workers is poor, because the business is limited. He paid his girls $3.50 a
week. No manufactories in the West or South." In 1860 the manufacture of
coal-oil lamps formed the principal business of sixteen companies, who
employed 2,150 men and 400 women and boys."
213. Pins. The pins made in the United States are not so high priced as
English pins. They have not until lately been so well finished. In pin
making in England, the drawing and cutting of the wire, the cutting of the
heads from the coils, and the trimming are mostly performed by men; the
other operations, by women and children. Sometimes, in trimming the pins,
a man, his wife, and child work together. For pickling and trimming the
pins the price usually paid is two cents a pound. A skilful and industrious
worker can head 20,000 pins per day, for which in England they are paid
about 30 cents of our money. Pin heading is very sedentary work, and
children seven or eight years of age are often kept at it for twelve or thirteen
hours, with merely time for hasty meals. Girls at Sedgley and Warrington
begin as early as five years of age to work in the pin factories. It is said that
at Wiltenhall they are treated with much cruelty, if at all refractory. In
Sedgley more women are employed than men, and receive the same
treatment. The secretary of the American Pin Company at Waterbury,
Connecticut, writes: "Women are employed in tending machines, and in
sticking and packing pins, and packing hooks and eyes, and making paper
boxes. The work is not unhealthy. The lowest wages by the week is $3.25
while they are learning; afterward $3.50 and $3.75 per week, ten hours a
day. Some work by the piece, and earn from $14 to $21 per month. The
supply of woman's labor is equal to the demand, at the prices we pay. We

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work through the year, generally without stopping, except for the holidays.
Our average number is fifty. Girls can do the work as well or better than
boys, that could be hired at the same price. Most are Americans. They have
their Sundays, holidays, and evenings—also a public library and institute
lectures at a very small cost—besides religious privileges afforded by six
churches. Board, $1.50 to $2 per week." The Albany Company, at Cohoes,
sends the following information: "Women, and girls not younger than
twelve years of age, are employed in sticking, folding, wrapping, &c. The
same work is done in England and Germany. Wages from $6 to $20 per
month, working twelve hours a day. Those having had the most practice can
usually do the work faster and better, consequently obtain higher wages.
They receive pay while learning. The qualifications most desirable are care,
attention, and activity. The business is not likely to increase greatly, as the
work is mostly done by machinery and the demand for the article is limited.
We are busy at all seasons except in extremely hot or cold weather. The
hands work twelve hours—by so doing they obtain higher wages. We have
more applicants than we wish. We employ from twelve to fifteen, because
they can do the work more readily than men. The work is light, and the
condition of the women quite equal to that of women otherwise employed
to obtain the necessities of life." The agent of the Howe Manufacturing
Company, in Connecticut, reports: "Our work is all done by the piece. The
earnings of the workwomen vary according to their skill, diligence, and the
number of hours spent at work. Average in April last, $11.09—in four
weeks. Highest earnings of one individual $22.09 (equal to $5.54 per
week). Small girls earn from $1 to $1.50 per week, and work six or eight
hours. Men and women do not perform the same kind of labor in our
establishment. Why all persons are not paid equally for equal labor, I do not
feel competent to explain. A knowledge of our work is soon acquired.
Learners are paid for what they do. A good character and reputation,
honesty, fidelity, common mechanical ability, and diligence are desirable
qualifications. We generally find the hands we want in our own immediate
neighborhood. Our work is considered desirable, and much sought for. In
all seasons the hands are equally employed, except dry seasons, when we
are short of water to drive our machinery. Our stock hands generally stay
with us till they get married or lay up so much money that they are able to
get along with less labor, or become too old or infirm to work to advantage.

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Some have stayed with us over twenty years, many over ten years. The
number of hours for work is discretionary. We seldom request industrious
hands to work more hours than they choose. Our hands sometimes work
twelve or fourteen hours, at their pleasure. Small girls, of whom we employ
but five or six, seldom work ten hours. The number of women and girls
employed in our establishment heretofore has been variable, averaging
perhaps thirty. We are using improved machinery, which has already
reduced the number, and will reduce it still more. Our work is peculiarly
adapted to female labor. Nearly all our hands are American born. In twenty-
two years' business, we have seldom, if ever, had an adult woman employed
who was unable to sign her name to the pay roll. Our adult women have the
churches and lyceum lectures, which I believe they generally attend. Their
time for reading, for the most part, will be evenings and Sundays. Small
girls can attend our district school free of cost." A manufacturer, in
Seymour, Connecticut, writes: "We pay from $3 to $4 per week. We employ
no men in sticking and packing, and, if we were not particular as to whom
we employ, we could reduce the amount of our monthly pay roll a large per
cent. It requires very little practice to learn the part of our business done by
women, and in most cases we pay them full wages upon entering the mill.
No special qualifications are needed. The kind of business we pursue will
always be carried on, but of course can never become very common. No
difference in the seasons, and the girls are never thrown out of employment.
Under the present regulations they work eleven hours, and the time could
not well be shortened, as that would tend to derange the other departments
of our business. We have but ten employed at present, but in the course of a
few days expect to have about twenty. They are employed because they are
peculiarly qualified for the business, and on account of the lower rate of
wages as compared with the labor of men. We employ women in all cases
when the work is suitable for them. Women as employed by us are superior
to men, being more expert and active. The New England States are
doubtless the best locality for our business. The females employed by us are
all intelligent and of good mental ability."
214. Rings. The American Brass Ring Co. "employ twenty women at
presses, in packing, &c. They are all foreigners. Board, $1.50 per week. The
work is not unhealthy. Women are paid fifty cents a day of ten hours.

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Women are paid $2 a week for four weeks while learning. The prospect of
future employment is no better than the business now offers."
215. Scales. H. T., manufacturer of scales and weights, Philadelphia,
Penn., writes: "We employ women in making metallic weights. The work is
not unhealthy. They earn from $4 to $6 per week. No comparison in the
price of labor. Women can make as much as men, if they are willing. It
requires almost a lifetime to learn the business; but the part the women
work at requires but a day or two. We pay learners. No extraordinary
qualifications are needed. A good prospect for increase of employment. No
difference in seasons. They work from four to ten hours. Women cannot be
employed at our heaviest work, on account of the great physical strength
required." I was told at F. & M.'s, New York, that the beams of the scales
could be burnished by women. It is done with steel instruments. I suppose
the pans could also be burnished by them. Burnishing the back of the plates
could be done by women also, but it is somewhat dirty work. Women would
have to work in the room with the men, for while the foreman was
employed, he would like to keep an eye on the employees. The work is
rather heavy for women, but not more so than some in which they are
engaged.
216. Stair Rods. A manufacturer of plated stair rods told me "he employs
a woman to burnish the rods. She can make from $4 to $7 a week, not
working more than ten hours a day, being paid from fifty cents to $1 a
hundred. It is work hard on the chest, but he thinks not hard on the eyes. He
had one lady who did it at home. In large establishments, rods are now
burnished by machinery. The polishing of stair rods is very hard work, and
requires strong, stout lads." Another stair-rod manufacturer told me "he has
employed a boy to tie up stair rods, but would employ a girl and pay the
same price, $1 per day."

217. Steel Manufacture.

No women are employed in the conversion of iron into steel in this or any
other country. It is rough, heavy work. It requires great physical strength,
and is unsuitable for a woman. No women are employed in the manufacture

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of axes in this country. It is rough, coarse work, and done by stout, strong
men. In one of the largest cutlery establishments in the United States they
employ six hundred men, but no females; except six, for wrapping up
goods. In the finishing of metals there are three branches: turning, filing,
and setting up. In turning, jagged particles of metal fly off, and often enter
the eyes of the workers, doing them great injury. Goggles of magnetized
iron might be used to prevent this. The magnetized wash is used to prevent
the filings from getting down the throats of grinders and polishers. For
learning the two parts, turning and filing, four years of apprenticeship are
served. The turning requires more skill than physical strength. It might be
done by women that were willing to serve so long an apprenticeship.
218. Buckles. G. Brothers, of Waterbury, employ six women in riveting
and other light work on bell clasps. They write: "The girls earn from $3 to
$5 per week, ten hours a day. The labor of women is paid twenty-five per
cent. less than that of males, because they are not able to do as heavy work.
It requires about three months to learn the part of males or females. Our
branch of trade is not increasing. Spring and fall are the most busy seasons,
but the women are not thrown out of employment during the year. They are
superior in light work. Board, $2 per week." A manufacturer in Attleboro'
writes: "I employ from twelve to fifteen at packing, at light press work, &c.
They are paid from four to six cents per hour. Women are not paid higher,
because they are not worth more. I pay men from seven to twenty-five cents
per hour. The time of learning depends on the ingenuity of the employed.
They have steady work most of the time. They are full-blooded Yankees—
have a good deal of fun when the boss is out, and work in a pleasant room.
The labor is easy, and they are satisfied with the remuneration. (Perhaps
because they can do no better!) A healthy climate, convenience to market
and to places where the raw material is made, are advantages. All New-
England girls have the advantages of a good education in the common
branches." A manufacturer in Middletown, Conn., replies: "Girls are
employed by me, springing in the tongues of buckles and packing them—
also making paper boxes. They earn from forty cents to $1 per day, being
paid by the piece. Their employment is not so heavy or laborious as that of
males. It takes from six months to one year to earn full wages. Women will
probably always be employed in these branches. Good box makers are

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always in demand. We employ thirty—all Americans. The balance of my
work is rather objectionable for women, unless it be foreign or second-class
girls. Women are usually more neat than men. Either water or railroad
communication is desirable in seeking a locality. Board, about $2 per week.
There was never so great a demand for female help in this part of the
country as at the present time. They have started a shirt manufactory about
nine miles from here, and are in want of girls; but the greatest trouble there
is to find boarding places at reasonable rates." The West Haven Co. report
"the employment to be very healthy by giving exercise to the limbs. The
pay is from seventy-five cents to $1.50 per day—average $1. Some learn
the business in two days, some in two weeks. The hands are paid from the
first, and are seventeen in number, all Americans. Women are superior in
this branch, because they are quicker with their fingers."
219. Edge Tools. The Humphreysville Edge Tool Manufacturing Co.
inform me they do not employ females. For polishing they hire strong,
rough boys, that they can get cheap, who stand while at work, and stoop
over the articles, which produces a strain on the back and compression of
the chest. Many find it so injurious they have to give it up, and the majority
of those who do keep at it do not last long. The majority of the metal
workers in Birmingham do their work at home. Each member of the family
has his particular part to perform. An English writer says: "In various
branches of the hardware manufacture, both in Birmingham and Sheffield,
women may be seen by hundreds in some places, comfortably secluded
from the male workers; in others, working side by side with them at the
same mechanical process. They are never given to intoxication, and rarely,
if ever, to strikes; and it may be very much the absence of these propensities
that has recommended them so largely to the notice of the employer. In
London the practice is gaining ground."
220. Electrical Machines. From the office of Davis & Kidder's magneto-
electric machines we receive the following intelligence: "We employ
women in covering wire, spools, sewing velvet, papering boxes, &c., &c.
They earn from $12 to $24 per month, and are paid by the month. Women
are paid nearly one half as much as men—can form no reason why women
are not as well paid. It requires about three months for females to learn;

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they are paid while learning. All it requires is energy. There is no prospect
at all for future employment in this branch. We employ our hands through
the year; do not deduct from their wages when absent for a week. They
work ten hours a day. We employ four, because the work is light and better
suited for them than males. All Americans. Those in my employ are well
educated. Board in respectable families, $2.50." C. Brothers, of New York,
employ two girls for the same kind of work. They pay one $5 a week, ten
hours a day—the small girl $3. They have had them but six months, but
expect to keep them all the year. Mr. C. thinks the business is so limited that
the prospect is poor for learners.
221. Fire Arms. From the Arms Manufacturing Co., Chicopee, Mass.,
we receive the following information: "We employ women in burnishing
plated ware. The employment is not unhealthy. We pay generally by the
piece. Some are paid about eighty cents per day. There is a prospect for
steady employment for the few we have, and for no more. They are in no
season entirely out of work. Ten hours a day are devoted to work when paid
for by the week. All Americans. Easy work and much sought after. Women
are inferior in point of strength, superior in cheapness." Sharp's Rifle Co.
write: "We employ from ten to thirty women in making cartridges and
inspecting primers. We pay about $1 each day, as the business requires good
skill and care, and is hazardous. It is generally piece work. Males do the
heaviest part of the work, and are paid $1.25 to $1.50 per day. If an
individual is skilful, it requires but a short time to learn. Hands are paid
while learning. Prospect good of future employment. We have constant
work for ten. They are usually employed nine hours. All Americans. They
appear very comfortable, and are quite tidy. No other parts of our
occupation are suitable for women. Women are superior in forming and
folding. $2.50 per week is the price of board."
222. Knives and Forks. The metals used for knives and forks are iron,
steel, and silver, according to use or expense. The dust that arises from the
grinding of steel knives, coats the lungs with stone. A German manufacturer
of small cutlery told me that in large establishments in some European
countries, women put the rivets in the handles of knives, and polish the
handles of ivory and pearl. In the grinding of penknives and razors the

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inclination of the body forward is greater than in any other branch; hence,
while less injurious in regard to the amount of dust than the fork and needle
branches, they are fraught with greater evil from the position of the body
alone. Articles of cutlery are glossed by holding them to a wooden wheel,
on which is emery powder. They are polished by holding them to a wheel
covered with leather, charged with crocus. Both of these processes are
within the range of woman's toil. In a cutlery establishment, I was told the
work was too hard for women. The polishing of their cutlery is done by
machinery. The Hardware Manufacturing Company, Berlin, Conn., write:
"We employ one hundred and forty men, making shelf hardware, and five
or six girls to pack it up. They get from fifty to seventy-five cents a day,
work ten hours, and all live at home. The work of papering up the goods is
light, and requires little skill. The other part of the work about our factory is
too severe for women." The Empire Knife Company, Conn., "employ four
girls in packing and sharpening. They are paid by the day (ten hours), and
earn from $3 to $4 per week. Women receive about the wages of men. It
requires from six months to one year to learn. Women are paid while
learning. The prospect of future employment is fair. The comparative
comfort and remuneration of the work are good. Comfortable board, $3 a
week." A company in Northfield, Conn., inform us: "It requires from three
to five years to learn the men's part of the work. Some of the women work
by the piece, and some by the day, receiving from $3 to $5 per week. The
same price would be paid to men. The prospect of future employment is
good. They work throughout the year. Women are superior in quickness. A
locality should be fixed on where good water power may be had."
223. Needles. Most of the needles used in Europe and America are
manufactured at Redditch, fourteen miles from Birmingham, where there
are about a dozen very large factories. The number manufactured in
Redditch amounts to about seventy million per week. The process is a very
long and painful one. The drilling is done by young women. The
constrained posture and rigid gaze of the women on the eyes of the needles
as they drill, is distressing. It requires a perfect steadiness of hand. In
addition to this, the small channel observed on each side of the eye is made
by women with a suitable file. The picking out of defective needles, and
laying perfect ones with the heads one way and the points another, is

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performed by children. Dr. G. C. Holland writes: "We candidly admit that
the physical evils produced by needle grinding exceed all that imagination
has pictured." The needle grinders in England are said to be ignorant and
dissipated. One half can neither read nor write. The dust which is evolved in
the process of needle grinding, contains a much larger amount of steel than
is produced by any other grinding. Mr. Aiken, inventor of the knitting
machine, has the machines and needles both manufactured. He says "he
supposes he could teach women to do most of the work on needles, if he
would give the time and trouble. He pays $1 per day to hands in the needle
room." In the manufacture of Bartlett's sewing-machine needles, but a few
small girls are employed, at from $1 to $1.50 per week, for smoothing the
eye by running an oiled thread through it. Formerly they employed girls to
perforate the eye, but it is now done by machinery. A manufacturer of
knitting needles writes us: "The winter season is the best for work, and the
Eastern States furnish the best localities for manufactories." A maker of
sewing-machine needles told me the tools are rather heavy, files and a lathe
being used. They pay a boy of fourteen years $3 a week, and one of
eighteen, $5.50. C. employs girls to envelop and label needles. They earn
from $3 to $4 a week, and do it at home. It takes a long time to become
expert. They are paid from the first, but not much. The business is limited.
They could have it done for less in England, but prefer to put labels on for
parties in this country, who want to be considered manufacturers. G. & B.
employ some girls to label and paper needles they import. They pay two
cents and a half for putting the labels on forty papers. The labelling is done
in the latter part of winter and early spring.
224. Pens (Steel and Quill). A thousand million steel pens are said to be
produced annually at Birmingham, England. We are indebted to some writer
in an English paper for a description of the part taken by women in the
manufacture of Gillott's pen in Birmingham. The number of women
employed in his factory is four hundred. "If not altogether manufactured by
woman, she has had, by far, more to do in its manufacture than men. He
may have forged and rolled the metal, but she cut it from the sheet, gave it
its semi-cylindrical form, stamped it, ground it on a wheel to make it
flexible, split it, helped to polish it, and finally packed it in a box, or sewed
it upon a card in readiness for the market. And whoever wishes to see her

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thus employed, may find her seated in an airy and comfortable chamber,
with two hundred or three hundred companions similarly engaged—all
healthy and merry, and singing at their work, while pens in all stages are
clicking and glittering through their fingers at the rate of something like one
hundred gross a day, each." An attempt has been made to manufacture steel
pens in this country, but, I think, as yet without success. The makers of the
Washington medallion pen had some girls to come from England to work
for them, but found they could not keep up the factory, because of the prices
they had to pay for labor. The duty on steel pens is thirty per cent., yet they
can be imported for less than it would cost to make them here. Some one
writes to the editor of the Englishwoman's Journal as follows: "Madam, I
have been told that quill pens made by hand are far superior to those made
by machinery, and are therefore used in some of the principal offices of
London. Besides which, very many persons are unable to write except with
quill pens; rejecting the best and most expensive ones made of any kind of
metal. Might not the making of them be a suitable occupation for some
young women, who, from lameness or other infirmities, might be unable to
follow a more active life?" In New York, some quills are made into pens by
machinery, but women, we believe, are not employed.
225. Philosophical Apparatus. K., in Brooklyn, told me that in the old
country it is customary to spend seven years learning to make philosophical
apparatus, but in this country boys do not like to be apprenticed so long.
The business is not fast enough for Americans. It requires close and
constant application. The burnishing is quite hard work. The occupation has
a tendency to render one intellectual and scientific. Most young men leave
it to become physicians and preachers. Dr. McG., of China, is one of the
number. The work is mostly done by lathe, but the polishing by hand. I
think women could do it, if they were brought up to it. Instruments are
made in Europe, and imported for less than they could be made in the
United States. Business is now very slack. K. used to have several
apprentices, that he boarded and paid $1 a week during the first year. The
next year he increased their wages to $1 a week more, the next year another
$1, &c. In small establishments an instrument is carried through all its
processes by the same workman. The business is done in the United States
on so small a scale as not to afford a sufficient subdivision to furnish any

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part suitable for women. P. does not know of any women being employed in
this country in this trade. He thinks there is much of it they could do, and in
process of time it will be done in the United States. In France and England,
there are many women who learn with their fathers and husbands, and work
with them. Many women are employed in making small compasses, that
require a nice adjustment and care in pasting, but a separate room would be
necessary, and that he has not. A manufacturer of nautical instruments
writes me, he does not know of women being employed in any part of his
business in any portion of the world. The brass on philosophical instruments
is polished by hand, but a manufacturer told me he would not have even the
polishing done by inexperienced hands, as they are very particular with the
finishing off of their work.
226. Saws. A saw maker says, in England women are employed in
lacquering the handles and polishing the blades of saws. An Englishman,
who did a very extensive business in New York, employed girls in the same
way, but he failed in business, and none have been employed since. W. pays
boys for such work $2.50 a week. Another informant writes me that in
England women are employed in the saw manufactories.
227. Scissors. In France, women are employed in the manufacture of
cutlery. The blades of scissors are polished by women on lathes supplied
with emery powder and oil, and subsequently on lathes supplied with
crocus.
228. Spectacles. S. says there are women in England and France who
make spectacle frames for them. He employs a woman to grind the glasses
of spectacles. She can earn $15 a week, and has earned $23 a week by
taking work home with her to do at night. On Nassau street, I saw a French
lady who grinds glasses for spectacles on a lathe. She works from nine to
five o'clock, and earns about $9 a week. There is not the danger some might
apprehend of glass flying into the eyes while at work. Yet it requires great
care and skill. I called at a manufactory of silver-plated spectacles and saw
the whole process. Several parts are done by women. One was shaping the
frames for the eyes, another setting them up, another preparing them to
solder, another soldering, and three others were scouring. The soldering
must be uncomfortable in warm weather. The employment, I suppose, is not

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more unhealthy than any other of a mechanical nature. One girl told me she
earned seventy-five cents per day. They are paid by the quantity. She said
the rest could earn as much, if they were industrious. One considerably
older, at another branch, said she could earn $4 a week. It would not require
more than a few weeks, I think, to learn any branch pursued by women—to
learn all the parts performed by women, would require six months or more,
even for an apt and skilful pupil. A spectacle maker, J., said a smart person
could learn to make silver spectacles in a year, but it would require
something longer to learn to make gold ones, as gold is a more difficult
metal to melt and work than silver. An apprentice is not paid the first year,
because of the metal he wastes. To learn it, one should at first look on and
see how the work is done. A manufacturer of spectacles writes: "Women
might make and repair spectacles. The heavier parts of the business require
foot lathes to be worked, where skirts would be out of place, but the most
could be done by hand in making spectacles." (We have seen several
women at foot lathes, polishing watch cases—so the use of foot lathes need
not be an objection with women.) A spectacle importer writes: "We use a
great many spectacle glasses, and in their manufacture in England females
are generally employed. In France and Germany the women do the same
kind of work." P., in Meriden, Conn., writes: "We employ women in making
spectacles. The work is not more unhealthy than any other labor in shops.
Most are paid by the piece—those who work by the week usually receive
$4, and work ten hours a day. They receive about three fourths the price of
male labor, because they perform the lighter work. They earn their board in
one week—get good wages in eight. They usually do about the same
amount of work through the year. We employ about fifty, because they are
more active on light work, and can be had for less wages. Most are
Americans. Girls prefer this to housework, and make better wages. The
nearer New York, the lower are freights; the farther from New York, the
more permanent our help. Good sense and religious principle prevail among
them. Those who board pay $2.25 per week." A manufacturer in Brooklyn,
of fine gilt, silver, plated, and German silver spectacles, writes: "The
employment is healthy. Young girls earn $2 per week, older ones from $3 to
$6. They are generally paid by the piece. Girls and boys earn about the
same wages, but those who have spent years to acquire the trade are entitled
to better prices. A smart girl or boy will learn in the course of six months to

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do a specific part. Wages are usually paid from the time they commence. A
fair share of common sense and willingness to labor are the principal
requisites. As long as people grow old, and need spectacles, they will be
manufactured. Our work continues about the same through the season. They
work ten hours a day. In burnishing, the demand is pretty good. We employ
ten women, because they can do the parts of work required better than boys
or men. Half are American. We find women rather more ready and apt than
men. It is advantageous to be in or near the great markets. Board, $2." I was
told by an English maker of spectacle frames, that most spectacles are made
in France and Germany. Men and women are paid in England 37½ cents a
dozen for grinding the best quality of glasses. The makers of frames should
know how to make figures, to put them on the frames. Women would be
most likely to find employment as grinders of glasses in New York, and no
doubt a small number could get work of that kind. Gold and silver frames
are polished on a lathe with leather and rouge. Common frames are
burnished with agate and steel. It is done more quickly, and is cheaper than
polishing. Most spectacle frames of a common quality are made in the
country, because it can be done by water power, and more cheaply.
229. Surgical Instruments. T., manufacturer, told me that some steel
surgical instruments are burnished by hand. He thinks there is not enough in
that line of business to do, to justify women in learning. He said the
polishing of surgical instruments could be done by women. It requires
judgment and experience, but is simple, requiring the worker merely to hold
the instrument on lathes and turn every few seconds; but burnishing
requires more strength. I was told that perhaps women are employed in
polishing silver surgical instruments.
230. Telescopes. G., an optician, says much of the light work in making
telescopes might be done by women. They could French-polish the wooden
frames, lacquer the brass work, and grind the glasses, if properly instructed.
He thinks making microscopes is more suitable for them.
231. Thermometers. The construction of the thermometer is quite
simple. Women, if taught, could put the parts together, and mark the scales.
I have been told that some girls are employed in Rochester, New York, in
marking the scales. The same remarks will apply to the barometer.

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232. Copper and Zinc Manufacture.

So far as we can learn, no women are employed in copper and zinc mines,
or in the making of copperas. Twenty-five women are employed in packing
copper powder flasks, by the Waterbury Manufacturing Company, and
making percussion caps. One fourth of them are American. They earn from
$3 to $4 per week, and the work is reported not unhealthy. The women are
paid about one half as much as men. It does not require long to learn, and
learners are paid something during their apprenticeship. Ten hours are
devoted to work. All seasons are alike. The agent says the women do better
for light work than men, but require more watching.

233. Tin Manufacture.

A youth, that was working in a tin shop for a widow, whose husband had
been a tinner, told me that a female relative of his, who lived about one
hundred years ago in Ireland, could do all the various parts of work as well
as a man. She learned the trade regularly. Women are paid nearly as well as
men for such labor in the old countries, but cannot work so fast. He says,
even now in Europe a few women learn the trade of a tinner. It requires four
years to learn it thoroughly in all its branches, because there is such a
variety. One or two branches may be learned perfectly in a short time; so
may several be learned indifferently in the same period; just as a violinist
may know how to play a few tunes very well, but cannot play any others; or
may know how to play a great many indifferently, but none perfectly. In
England, where women are employed in tin shops to solder, they receive for
this work their board and thirty-seven cents a day.
234. Lanterns. I visited a large tin establishment in Brooklyn, and saw
the girls at work; some soldering the corners of the lanterns, some assorting
the pieces, some putting glass in the sides, some fastening conductors'
lamps in the framework, with plaster of Paris, and some enveloping them to
send away. There is nothing unhealthy in the work. The smoke of the
charcoal stoves used in soldering is carried off by pipes. Girls putting glass
in the tin frames, sometimes get their fingers cut. The girls all wear aprons.
The plaster of Paris part of the work is very dirty. The girls earn from $2.50

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to $4.50. They are all employed at first in papering, as it is termed—that is,
putting the articles in papers ready to be packed; and receive, for a few
weeks, $2.50 a week, then more, according to ability and industry. Some are
paid by the week and some by the piece; they work ten hours. Girls prefer
mechanical labor to domestic service, because they have the evenings to
themselves. It requires but a few weeks for a girl of ordinary abilities to
learn the part she is to perform. The proprietor said he could have a hundred
times as many girls as he has, if he had employment for them. But few
American women will work in factories with men. Most women are neater
with their work than men. At a lantern manufactory in New York, I was told
they employ eight or ten girls to cement the metal parts on the glass, to
varnish, to wash and wipe and paper them. They are paid $3.50 a week.

235. Britannia Ware.

Some Britannia is burnished by hand, and some by lathe. Women
occasionally do the first kind.

236. Silver.

"The artisan who forms certain articles of gold and silver is called,
indifferently, a goldsmith or silversmith. The former denomination is most
commonly employed in England, and the latter in the United States." A
manufacturer of silver ware in Providence, Rhode Island, writes: "We do
not employ women, and for the same reason that females are not employed
in machine shops." Chinese women do filagree work. A lady told me she
had seen it done in a factory near Paris, by women.
237. Burnishers. At M.'s, Philadelphia, they employ from thirty to fifty
women on plated ware; would employ more if they had room for them to
work. They spend three months learning, and receive no wages during that
time. They then earn from $3 to $6 per week, according to skill and
industry. They work by the piece. Another set of women are employed in
scouring the ware. It is wet, dirty work, and the women receive somewhat
higher wages. The burnishers work in a light, comfortable room. The

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scourers work in a cellar. The business of burnishing is not hard on the
eyes; nor would it be on the chest, M. thinks, if the burnishers sat upright,
which they could do if they chose. We were told by some one else, that the
demand for laborers in that field is very limited in Philadelphia. I was told
by a silversmith in New York, that a good burnisher can earn from $5 to $7
a week, and he thought it took about a year to learn to become a good
worker. Burnishing is a laborious and perfectly mechanical process. With
some, the stooping posture is found trying to the breast, and constantly
poring over the bright surface is injurious to the eyes. The business is
poorly paid, and a silversmith can employ but a very small number of
burnishers, but manufacturers of plated ware employ more. F. employs two
girls for burnishing silver ware, who can earn from $5 to $9 per week. It is
piece work, and does not require long to learn. C. L. pays burnishers from
$3 to $6 a week. At a manufactory of silver service for Roman Catholic
churches, I was told they are most busy just before Christmas and Easter.
They pay by the week, because it is less trouble, and to them cheapest, as
many of the articles they make are small. They pay from $2 to $5 a week.
Y., in New York, who employs a number in burnishing silver ware, told me
he pays learners nothing for a month, then by the piece. A good burnisher
could earn from $5 to $7 a week. The prices are better than are generally
paid to women for mechanical work. A lady burnisher told me she likes the
work because it can be done at home. She thinks the work not injurious to
the eyes. To learners she pays nothing for two months, then $1 a week, and
so increases as the learner advances. At the end of a year, the learner is
considered proficient. Silver platers mostly employ their operatives in
factories. Silver ware requires more taste and neatness than plated ware, and
pays better. It is like vest making. One that can make good ones, gets a
good compensation; but those who slight their work are paid
proportionately. A good burnisher can earn $6 and upward. Mrs. ——
thinks after a while there will be manufactories of plated ware in the South
and West. I saw a man making silver and brass faucets. The burnishing is
first done with steel, then with agate. It requires some strength, but a
woman of muscular force could do it. The majority of burnishers work upon
plated ware, as less silver is used since plated ware has been brought to its
present state of perfection. M. pays by the piece. A woman receives from $4
to $7 per week, according to competency and industry. It requires from two

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to four months to learn. The large cities, or places where the goods are
manufactured, are the best for burnishers. The work soils clothes, so girls
generally change their dresses or wear large aprons. Spring and fall are busy
seasons. Hollow ware is generally burnished by men, as it requires more
strength. At H.'s, I saw a few women scouring the ware with sand, and
nineteen burnishing. They earn from $3 to $6 a week. A man in B., that
does hand plating, employs girls to burnish, and pays them by the piece.
They can earn from 75 cents to $1.50 per day; they work at home. In New
York there are some ladies who teach burnishing, and at some
establishments a premium is paid for learning. In some large factories, girls
are paid by the week from $3 to $5. C. pays by the piece, and from the first,
but a girl cannot earn more than $1 a week for two or three months. It
requires from four to six months to become a burnisher. The prospect for
learners is good, because girls will get married, and so leave vacancies. The
business is increasing. Good burnishers earn from $4 to $12 a week. He
employed a girl to stay in his office and burnish, paying her according to
what she did, from $1 to $1.25 a day. Women, he remarked, receive the
same price for burnishing that men do. (He may pay them so, but I know all
do not.) About the holidays are the most busy times. There are not two
months in the year a good burnisher cannot get employment. Merchants are
slack longer than manufacturers. C. is a practical plater, and not so much at
the mercy of his employés as those that are not. His burnishers begin on
knives and forks, as they are most simple. A burnisher told me it is not
customary to pay a learner during the first two months. Most burnishers
wear a shield. He thinks it is not bad on the eyes unless done at night. A
northern light is best for judging of the work, just as a northern light is best
for seeing the imperfections of a painting. About four months of the year,
January, February, July, and August, burnishers find it difficult to get work,
except in very large establishments, where they are kept busy all the time. A
man working at coach lamps told me girls used to be employed in the
factory to burnish plates, and received $3 per week. The Porter Britannia
and Plate Co., Conn., "employ women in burnishing, washing and packing.
They earn from $3 to $5 per week. Men and women have the same price for
their work, but men earn from 50 to 75 per cent. more, because they
accomplish more. Men and women spend three months learning. Women
could not endure more than ten hours such work. The supply rather exceeds

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the demand generally. On many accounts, women are preferable. They are
superior in care and nicety of execution. The labor is too exhausting for
tropical climates. There are some parts of the occupation suitable for
women in which they are not now employed." Information from three other
establishments corresponds with that given. Silversmiths in New Orleans
write me, February, 1861: "Women are much employed in Europe as well as
in this country, burnishing silver ware. It is not in the least unhealthy. Most
are paid by the piece, and here some receive as high as $50 a month. For
silver burnishing, women are paid the same as men. The time of learning
depends greatly upon capacity—usually about six months. There is a very
slight prospect, at present, of employment. The best season for work is
winter; there is none in the summer. In the higher branches of such work,
women acquire superior skill."
238. Thimbles. P. was kind enough to make an entire silver thimble, that
I might see the process. The whole of the work could be done by women,
but no women in any country are employed at it, so far as he knows. I was
told by one or two other thimble makers, that no women are ever employed
in that branch of business. It is usual for a boy to serve an apprenticeship of
four years. While doing some parts of the labor the workers sit, and while
doing other parts they stand. The polishing is done on a lathe, and there is
not enough of it to furnish work for a separate person, except in very large
establishments, and even then it is so connected with the other processes
that it could not be well divided. There are not so many thimbles sold now
as formerly, because of the sewing machines that are used. There are not
more than from eight to twelve thimble makers in the United States. There
are none South or West of Philadelphia.

239. Silver Plating.

Women cannot well do the close or hand plating. It is done by soldering and
ironing. Door plates are made in this way. Electro-plating is done with a
battery. The business includes a variety of work, and requires some
knowledge of chemicals, but could be learned by an intelligent person in a
short time. The Americans are noted for excellence in this department. H.

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knew a lady plater in Connecticut, and a very good one she was. I have
been told women are employed in silvering metals in France.

240. Bronze.

Some statuettes are made of the finer metals, gold and silver, while busts
are made of other simple metals, as copper, iron, zinc, lead, &c. They are
generally made, however, of the mixed metals. It requires some years'
experience to make bronze statuettes. Women are employed in France, in
ornamental bronze work. Mlle. de Faveau has succeeded in having a bronze
statue of St. Michael cast entirely whole, instead of in portions. It is the
resuscitation of a lost art.

241. Gold and Jewelry Manufactures.

Those that manufacture jewelry in the United States form a small body. The
articles sold by different houses vary as much in price and quality as any
other kind of goods. Jewellers often have connected with their business
persons who work in ivory, jet, hair, and such materials. "Felicie de Faveau,
as a worker in jewels, bronze, gold, and silver, as a designer of monuments
and mediæval furniture, stands without approach." Much common jewelry
is made in Rhode Island, and women are employed to some extent in its
manufacture. The New England Jewelry Company in Providence employ
women to solder, and pay $4 a week, ten hours a day. It does not take long
to learn. They have work usually all the year. In the Eastern manufactories,
women suffer some from dust, on account of their working in the same
rooms where the men are employed at the machinery. In the manufacture of
jewelry, the fumes of charcoal are usually permitted to fill the workshop;
and the fusion of saltpetre, alum, and salt, used in dry coloring, induces
general nervousness and pain in the head and chest. This has been to some
extent remedied, by having pipes that carry off the fumes partially, or it may
be, in whole. There are many departments in the jewelry line that might be
successfully filled by women: the sale of jewelry is one. It requires several
years for one to become well acquainted with the jewelry business, and that
is longer than many women are willing to spend in fitting themselves for

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business. Mr. B. said: "One to set jewels should be able to mount them. But
few people make setting a separate business. When he learned, a woman
was not at all employed by jewellers in this country. He pays some of his
workers $10 a week, ten hours a day." A jewelry manufacturer in
Pawtucket, Rhode Island, writes: "Women are employed in the manufacture
of jewelry—also in casing and packing the same for market. The work is
not more injurious than weaving or sewing. They are paid about the same as
men. Some pay by the piece, some by the hour. Women are not paid as well
as men, because they cannot do all parts. The time of learning depends upon
their ingenuity. Some may learn in one week, others in four. They are paid
while learning. Women are employed in the lighter branches because they
are quicker. The advantage of a locality is in having natural water power, in
a community where there is plenty of capital, and the capitalists are willing
to invest in the business." Some manufacturing jewellers told me "they pay
from $3 to $8 per week to their women. They work ten hours a day. The
time of learning is six months, but, as in every thing else, much depends on
the capacity, aptitude, and particular genius of the learner. More women
could be employed in this business, if properly qualified. All their women
are Germans. New York is the best place for selling jewelry, but other
places are as good for manufacturing."
242. Gold Assayers. Assaying by acids and other reagents could be done
by women. Tests are now imported, but most assayers prefer to make their
own tests. Assaying requires patience, a knowledge of metals, and
endurance of heat. It also requires instruction and considerable experience.
Some assayers move from place to place wherever new mines are
discovered, and reap the benefit of their skill and knowledge. A gold refiner
informs me "that his business is mostly heavy fire work, requiring the most
able men. None of it is sufficiently light for females." I find, however, that
women are reported in the census of Great Britain as gold and silver
refiners, cutters, and workers.
243. Enamellers. The experience, taste, delicacy of touch, and fineness
of finish required, make the art of enamelling one very suitable for women.
The richness of coloring and exquisite workmanship render some
specimens very beautiful. Simple metals are mostly used as a base. I saw a

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man enamelling jewelry, who told me he employs small girls to enamel,
paying from $2 to $3 a week. It requires but two weeks to learn. I saw some
jewelry that had been enamelled in Germany by women. In France, women
are employed as enamellers, at from 8 to 16 cents a day. "Gold of the
standard quality is the best metal to enamel on, as it imparts something of
its own glow to the ground, and assists materially the richness and delicacy
of the coloring, particularly in the flesh tints. Copper gives a cold greenish
hue to the enamel ground, but it is more commonly used than gold on
account of its cheapness. For large enamels it is necessary to use copper, as
they require a heat which would melt plates of gold." A highly polished
enamel is passed through the fire a number of times in the process of
painting; otherwise it would be impossible to imitate any great delicacy of
tint—as the colors are considerably changed by burning. "As the plates are
every time subjected to a high red heat, it is obvious that enamels must be
the most durable of all kinds of paintings." At an enamel factory for lining
metal vessels with a porcelain coating, I saw a woman who has been
employed for four years to mix enamel in the consistency of buckwheat
dough, and pour it into vessels to form an enamel lining. The articles are
then baked in a furnace that the enamel may harden. She stands while
employed. She goes at half past seven in the morning, has half an hour at
noon, and returns and works until four, for which she is paid $4 a week. She
has a sister-in-law in Williamsburg that does the same kind of work. It is
not at all unhealthy.
244. Gold and Silver Leaf. The iron hammers used for beating gold leaf
are very heavy. For the first beating, hammers weighing twelve pounds are
used; for the second beating, hammers weighing six or eight pounds. Strong
women could perform the second beating of gold leaf, but I do not know
that they ever do—I think never in the United States. Lads serving as
apprentices receive $1.50 a week for six weeks, then $2 a week for a time,
and then more, according to ability and industry. A goldbeater told me a
youth could get a pretty good insight into the business in a year or two, but
the usual time of apprenticeship is either three or four years. Goldbeaters
earn from $1.50 to $2 a day. We visited several gold-leaf manufactories, and
found more uniformity in the time of learning and the prices paid than in
any other branch of business. It requires from two to twelve weeks to learn

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to book gold leaf, depending on the abilities of the learner and the
requirements of the establishment. Six weeks is the length of time usually
given. It can be learned in two days, but requires practice to become expert.
The girls are not paid while learning, as the materials are costly, and the
quantity wasted comes to as much or more than the learner's services are
worth. The standard price for laying gold leaf is one cent and a half a book.
Bookers can earn from $2.50 to $5 a week, according to skill and
expedition. The tools of a worker are very simple. I think, most of the
women employed in the gold leaf factories of New York are Americans.
Gold leaf is so light that even a breath of air will move it. In some factories,
the booking is done in a room with the doors and windows closed—
consequently the room is very warm in summer. The seasons of the year do
not affect this business like most others. The demand for gold leaf regulates
the supply. Where business is not systematically conducted, the beaters will
sometimes not have the leaf ready to book, and so the girls must lose their
time waiting; and in some cases the men's work is retarded by the absence
of the bookers. All the manufacturers I talked with thought the prospect
good of employment to learners. K. & Co. take learners in the spring, but
will not take them unless they can insure them work when the six weeks of
learning have expired. Neatness is required. No talking is allowed in the
work room, as merely a drop of water falling from the lips might spoil from
$3 to $4 worth of leaf. The leaf is weighed when given to the booker and
when returned, so there is no opening for dishonesty. W. employs his hands
all the year. The girls always sit while at work. Lightness and delicacy of
hand are required. The prospect of employment is tolerable, but most prefer
to retain those they teach, as there is much difference in the style and
expedition. In some shops great care is taken with learners, and they acquire
proportionate proficiency. We think this a very neat and genteel
employment. It requires honest workers with nimble fingers. There are but
very few manufactories South and West.
245. Jewellers' Findings. D. & Co. manufacture tags for all kinds of
goods. They employ girls and women in the country to string their tags,
because they can do it in their spare moments, and consequently work
cheaply. It pretty much takes the place of knitting, and a person could not
earn more than twenty-five cents a day at it. They so employ thirty or forty

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persons. They also engage a number in box making. It requires care and
neatness to make small boxes for jewelry. Workers are paid by the piece,
and can earn from twenty-five cents to $1.25 a day, but those who earn the
latter amount work from five in the morning until ten at night. This work is
mostly done in families. D. & Co. are very strict in their regulations, and
particular in the kind of work people they employ.
246. Pencils. In Williamsburg, Mass., two women are employed in
making gold and silver pencil cases. H., of New York, employs one girl for
engine turning—an ornamental dotted work common on pencil and watch
cases. He employs her by the week, and pays $3. She works ten hours a day.
It requires but a few days for one of ordinary intelligence to learn. It is
sedentary, but not unhealthy. He has employed nine women: they cannot do
the work as well as men, but cheaper. He would employ boys, but they are
so fond of changing their employment, and so anxious to engage in one that
will advance them, that it is difficult to keep them at that work. It is very
clean work. There is no prospect of future employment, as one woman can
keep up with twelve other workers, and so very few are needed. Women
have to work in the same room with the men, on account of the foreman
having to regulate the machinery if it gets out of order.
247. Pens. I saw a gold-pen manufacturer in Brooklyn. He will take ten
or twelve learners shortly, and pay them from the commencement. He must
have honest girls, for a dishonest girl will take $5 or $10 worth of gold at a
time, frequently without its being missed. He will have a separate apartment
for his girls. The best hands can earn from $5 to $6 a week, working ten
hours a day. It requires only about a month to learn, but practice greatly
improves and expedites work. He thought the prospect rather poor for
learners. The part done by men could be done by women, but it is dirty
work. That done by women is rather neat work. W., of Brooklyn, employs a
number of girls in watch-case polishing and in finishing off pens. The
majority are Americans. Some are paid by the piece, and some by the week.
They work ten hours a day, and have employment all the year. Some girls
learn the art in a short time, and some never. Some girls are paid while
learning as much as $2.50 a week. W. thinks the prospect good of
employment in that branch. He wanted several girls more. From the

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nimbleness of their fingers they can do their work better than men. More
gold pens are made in this country than steel ones. A jeweller said learners
should be paid from the first, and you may know he is not much of a man
who would be willing to receive a woman's work for nothing. On Nassau
street, N. Y., I saw a manufacturer who employs girls for stoning, frosting,
and polishing pens. They are paid by the quantity, and can earn from $3 to
$5 a week. They stand at a lathe while polishing. The only trouble is that
their dress is likely to catch on the wheel. That might be remedied by
wearing Turkish costume without hoops. It requires care and some
judgment to do the frosting. They are paid something while learning, and in
two or three months receive full wages. When business is good, the factory
is going all the year. To make a good finisher requires that the individual
have some mechanical talent and be a good penman. Some never succeed.
In stoning and frosting, girls sit. The finishers are men, and the stooping
required sometimes produces consumption. So many gold pen cases are not
used now as formerly—probably not more than one tenth as many. Gutta
percha has become a substitute. N. employed women seven or eight years
ago in polishing, stoning, and pointing pens, and paid $5 a week of ten
hours a day. Manufacturers in Williamsburg, Mass., write: "We employ
women to make gold pens, pen holders, and jewelry, and pay from $3 to $4
per week—some by the piece and some by the week. It requires from one to
three years to learn, according to the part they do. They are paid small
wages while learning. We wish honesty and ingenuity in our workers. The
business is permanent. Work is given at all seasons of the year. The hands
work eleven and a quarter hours per day. We employ from ten to twelve
women, because they can do the work equally as well as men, at about one
third the price. Half are Americans. No other parts of the occupation are
suitable for women than those in which we employ them. Help once settled
in the country, if married, are likely to be permanent—in cities, vice versa,
changing about. Our workmen have a fine reading room. Board, $1.50 for
women, $2.50 for men."
248. Watches. A watch is said to consist of 992 pieces. We have seen it
stated that two hundred persons are employed in the entire process of
making a watch, and that, with the exception of the watch finishers (who
put the parts together), not one of the workmen could perform any but his

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own specific part. In Switzerland, families, for generation after generation,
devote themselves to making particular parts of watches. Women have
proved their ability to execute the most delicate parts. Twenty thousand
Swiss women earn a comfortable livelihood by watch making. They make
the movements, but men mostly put them together. I think a few women
work as finishers. We quote from the Englishwoman's Review: "Geneva has
always refused to employ women, and has now totally lost the watch trade.
None of the Geneva watches, so called, come from that part of Switzerland,
but are manufactured elsewhere, and principally in the canton of
Neufchatel, where women have been employed from the first." Mr. Bennett,
of London, "states facts relative to the mental culture of both sexes, which
is deemed requisite in Switzerland to prepare the intellect, the eye, and the
hand for watch manufacture, and he refers to the salubrious dwellings of the
operatives." A traveller states: "We see women at the head of some of the
heaviest manufactories of Switzerland and France, particularly in the watch
and jewelry line." In England, women have been until lately excluded from
watch making by men, but some are now employed in one establishment in
London and in several of the provincial towns. "There is a manufactory at
Christchurch, England, where five hundred women are employed in making
the interior chains for chronometers. They are preferred to men, on account
of their being naturally more dexterous with their fingers, and therefore
being found to require less training." From the November number of the
Knickerbocker we quote: "All imported watches are made by hand, the
American watches being the only ones made by machinery in a single
establishment by connected and uniform processes. The Waltham watches
have fewer parts and are more easily kept in order than any others; and are
warranted for ten years by the manufacturers. They have over one hundred
artisans employed, more than half of whom are women." The manufactory
occupies a space more than half an acre in extent. Hand labor is cheaper in
Europe than this country, but American watches are cheaper, because made
by machinery. Making the cases is a distinct branch from the interior work,
and furnishes employment to some women. Cleaning watches would form a
pretty and suitable employment for women. I was told of some Swiss
women living in Camden, New Jersey, that make the inside work of
watches very prettily and very accurately. A manufacturer of chronometers
in Boston writes: "We employ women in cutting the teeth of watch and

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chronometer wheels, polishing, &c. They are generally employed by the
week or year, and work nine or ten hours a day. Women might be employed
in large establishments in merely cleaning or polishing the parts of watches
repaired, without putting them together; and they might learn to do it in a
short time, a few months perhaps. We pay our women for such work from
$4 to $6 a week, according to their capacity. The qualifications needed are
delicacy of touch, patience, and great carefulness. The employment will be
very limited. Work is steady the year round. The principal objection to
employing women is that they are very apt to marry just as they become
skilful enough to be reliable; therefore, what does not require long
apprenticeship or a great expense to learn, is most desirable for them. A
good degree of intelligence is indispensable. The more, of course, the
better." We would add to the requisites for a watchmaker, patience and
ingenuity. The secretary of the American Watch Company at Waltham
writes: "Women are employed at our factory. The employment is entirely
healthy. We pay from $4 to $7 per week for intelligent girls, and women's
average pay is $5. About half are paid by the piece. Men earn about double
the wages of women, because, first, they do more difficult work, are more
ingenious, more thoughtful and contriving, more reliant on themselves in
matters of mechanics, are stronger, and therefore worth more, though not
perhaps double, as an average; second, because it is the custom to pay
women less than men for the same labor. Women and girls are paid from
$2.50 to $4 per week during the first four months, while they are learning
the particular part of our business we set them at. The requisites are a good
common-school education, general intelligence, and quickness; light, small
hands are best. The business is new to the country. We work every working
day in the year, without detriment to the health of women, who seem to
endure their labor as well as men. We work ten hours a day. There is little
demand for labor in the watch-making business generally in this country,
but we think women could be taught successfully the art of watch making,
so as to be able at least to earn a living as watch repairers. We employ
seventy-five women out of two hundred hands, and because there are many
parts of our work they can do equally well with men; but it is generally light
and simple work, for which no high degree of mechanical skill is requisite.
Nine tenths are American born. Our hands are all made perfectly
comfortable in their labor. We employ female labor, where we can, as being

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cheaper; but we find women do not reach the posts where a high degree of
skill is needed, as of course they do not those for which their strength is
insufficient. They have abundant facilities for mental culture in the
evenings. About half live with parents or relatives; the rest board, and pay
from $2 to $3 a week, according to quality."
249. Watch Case and Jewelry Polishers. Quite a number of women are
employed in polishing watch cases, and a few in polishing jewelry. It
requires some time to learn to do the finest work, and some can never learn.
The polishing of good gold is done by hand and the lathe—common
jewelry, by the lathe alone. A good polisher can earn $1 a day of ten hours'
work. C. & Co. employ girls, because they do not have to pay them so high,
and they do it as well. B. & H., who have a factory in Jersey City, employ a
number of lady polishers. The rouge renders it dirty work, but not
unhealthy. Very good hands can earn $7 or $8 a week. They employ four
sisters, French girls, who have bought a farm for their parents. They have
generally paid $23 a week to the four sisters. The prospect for learners is
good. They generally pay by the week, and have their hands work ten hours
a day. They take learners, and pay something from the first. It requires two
years' practice to become very good polishers. They prefer to make an
agreement with the learner to retain her some time, as the material is costly,
and considerable is wasted by a learner. In good times they have work
steadily all the year. Polishers can either sit or stand while at work.
Burnishing and polishing are different. Burnishing is done with steel,
polishing with buffs. Plated ware is burnished, silver and gold are polished.
S. thinks several girls might, in busy times, find employment in polishing
jewelry. He often advertises for workers, but receives few answers. It
requires two or three years to learn, and four or five to become perfect
workers. In Germany and France, girls have polished jewelry for many
years. In the Southern and Western U. States, there are no manufactories of
any extent. They have not the machinery for such work. What little is made
and repaired is done in the jeweller's shop, or above his store. F. & P.
employ small girls about thirteen years old to polish, paying $1.50 per
week, while learning. It requires about a year for young girls to become
expert. We were told women are the best polishers of jewelry. A maker of
gold buttons, who has employed girls to polish, paid $2 a week to small

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girls, and $3 to older and more experienced hands. The girls are also
employed in putting them up. Care is needed in polishing, that the work be
evenly done. A watch-case polisher told me a woman cannot earn more than
$2 or $3 a week at polishing. (It may be all he pays.) Mrs. C. is teaching a
girl to polish watch cases. She boards her, and pays her $30 the first year,
and furnishes her with a certain number of dresses. A good polisher may
earn from $6 to $8 a week. She told me a lady in Philadelphia, that she
taught, is making $27 a week. C. has most of his polishing done by a lady.
He pays boys he takes as apprentices, $2.25 a week, from the first. He says
a good lady polisher can earn $1 a day. He pays his men from $10 to $15 a
week, because they do more, and do it better than women. In good seasons
there is so much polishing to do that experienced hands are very much
hurried. The work is not confined to seasons. It does not require long to
learn to polish. Such work is mostly done in New York, but considerable is
done in the small towns around. At S.'s we saw a girl polishing, who told us
she received $1 a day. She says there a girl spends six months learning. For
three months she receives nothing, after that $3 a week. At B.'s, the lathes
are moved by steam, but have treadles also, that the work may not cease
when the engine or machinery is out of order. Less and less watch work is
done by hand in the United States every year, owing no doubt to the large
number imported and the increased use of machinery. The work in the
business has fallen to European rates. A good polisher has been earning $6
or $7 a week, but very few can do so now, and the prospect of employment
is poor for a learner. Some years ago he employed a lady at $15 a week, for
fitting movements to the case. The sister of a watch-case maker and
importer, in Brooklyn, told me that she worked at the business some years
ago, and received seventy-five cents apiece for polishing watch cases—now
but fifty cents is paid. The lady often polished four cases in a day of ten
hours, and so earned $3. In the European countries, some years back, a man
was paid $1 for making a watch case; in the United States, $5. Prices have
fallen greatly in the United States for this kind of work, because the duty on
imported goods is so low. She says the work is not very clean, because the
oil and rouge get on your clothes and person. Everybody should wear
working clothes, if their labor is such as to soil them. The motion of the foot
in moving the lathe tries the back greatly. When the polishing is done by
steam, it is not so. As men and women are paid by the piece, women receive

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as good wages. A smart person can learn to polish in a few days, but to
learn it thoroughly would require three months. Women are paid in this
country while learning, but in Europe they are not. In prosperous times,
work is good all the year. In summer, work is done for the North; in winter,
for the South. A locality in or near a large city is preferable. Prices vary in
different establishments. Usually, where the best quality of work is done,
the best prices are paid the work people—where cheaper work is done,
lower wages are paid. The usual price paid to girls as polishers, when they
are employed by the week, is $6—a better remuneration for mechanical
labor than most women receive.
250. Watch Chains. In Birmingham, several hundred women are
employed in making chains, and we suppose fifty or more in this country.
The gold wire is prepared and drawn out by men, as it requires too much
strength for women. All the work after that is performed by women. The
wire is cut into pieces of the right length, then bent into the proper form by
means of a die worked by a hand press; each link is then soldered together
by means of a jet of gas, a blowpipe, and a tiny piece of solder, when it is
finished by polishing. D. & S., Philadelphia, employ three girls in soldering.
The wages of the girls vary from $3.50 to $8 a week. They work ten hours a
day. It is not an unhealthy business, D. and S. think, and can be learned in
two months. M. F. & Co., New York, employ girls in soldering and
polishing chains. Those that solder earn from $3 to $8 a week. Some of the
girls are paid by the week, and some by the inch. It can be pretty well
learned in three months. After two or three weeks they are able to earn
about $2 a week. To those girls who instruct learners they give the profits of
the learners. Polishing is not clean work, but the women can generally earn
more at it. They earn from $3 to $9 a week. They work ten hours a day,
when paid by the week, in summer; but in winter, not so long. The building
is never lighted. The women have a separate apartment to work in, and
change their clothes on entering and leaving the work room; and the
polishers tie up their heads, to prevent their hair being covered with rouge.
The girls wear the same clothes every day while at work, that they may not
carry away any gold. The proprietors sell their waste scraps for $8,000 a
year. They require boys to spend five years learning the business, taking
them at the age of 16, and retaining them until 21. Men that learn a trade

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expect to follow it until death. M. thinks women will not spend long
learning a trade, for nearly all women look forward to something else than
working all their lives at a trade. The heat and fumes of gas used in chain
making are said to render the occupation unhealthy, but an extensive
manufacturer assured me that the fumes are not inhaled, as the flame is
blown from the worker, and that it is not more unhealthy than any other
sedentary occupation. I would have thought the minuteness of the particles
composing some chains would be trying on the eyes, but the girls said not.
The chain makers sit while at work. In summer they cannot sit near an open
window, lest any of the gold be blown away. Chain making looked to be
very nice, delicate work, requiring care, judgment, and some skill. The
Europeans have not got to using steam in any part of the process, and are
astonished at the superiority of the American chains. There are no
manufactories West or South. I was told at Tiffany's, the making of some
kinds of chains can be learned in two or three years, while other kinds
require five years. S., at Tiffany's, told me he was the first person that
introduced women into the manufacture of jewelry in New York. The hands
at chain making receive $1.50 a week at first—as they become more skilful,
they receive more. The average payment is $5 a week. They have one
woman who has been at the business six years, and earns $8 a week.
Another manufacturer told me chain making is not unhealthy. It requires a
year to learn to do polishing well, and during that time a learner can earn
only from $1.75 to $2 a week. While polishing at a lathe, workers stand.
Men do most polishing now. They do it by machinery propelled by steam,
and one man can accomplish as much in a day as a woman by a treadle
lathe can do in two weeks. Manufacturers in Providence write me, "their
girls, from six to fifteen in number, work at home, and are paid by the piece.
They earn $1 a day of ten hours on an average. They do not employ men in
that department of the business. It requires men five years to learn the
business—females to solder, thirty days. Good eyesight is necessary. The
business will probably increase with growth of country and increase of
wealth. Spring and fall are the most busy seasons. They are all American."
Some manufacturer in New York writes: "The work is not more unhealthy
than any other so sedentary. It is generally paid for by the piece, the
workers earning from $2 to $8 per week. The men average from $10 to $12.
Men spend seven years learning—girls, one. Quickness of motion,

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perseverance, and attention are desirable qualities. The prospect for work in
future is moderate. The busy seasons are spring and fall. In July, August,
January, and February, the women are employed. We have from thirty to
forty females, because the work is light."
251. Watch Jewels. I called on a Swiss lady who sets jewels in watches.
She supports her family by it, but complains of a scarcity of work, because
watchmakers can import their jewels at four shillings a dozen from
Switzerland, and set them themselves.

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MISCELLANEOUS WORK.

252. Indian Goods.

Any one that has ever visited Niagara, knows something of the immense
quantity of Indian goods offered for sale. Moccasins and reticules (made of
buckskin, and ornamented with beads), pincushions, baskets, &c. (made of
birch-wood, and ornamented with figures and flowers of party-colored
porcupine quills), can be had. Fans of feathers and a thousand little fancy
articles may be bought in a dozen different shapes at Niagara. The Indians
make most of them, but quite a number are made by fairer hands. The duty
on goods purchased in Her Majesty's realm, and brought into the States, is
ten per cent. So, if a person is careful of his purse, or disposed to encourage
home manufactures, he had as well purchase on the American side. On most
of the steamboats and cars of the Western waters, while in port or at the
depot, genuine Indian women may be seen, with (we suppose) genuine
Indian articles for sale.

253. Inkstands.

Manufacturers of inkstands in Connecticut write: "We employ from twelve
to fifteen American women in painting, varnishing, and bronzing inkstands,
and pay from fifty to sixty cents per day of ten hours. Females do not
perform the same kind of labor that the males do. The wages of women are
less, because there is a surplus in consequence of there being so little
diversity in female employment. The occupation is learned in from one to
two years. That part done by females may be learned in one month. They
are paid while learning. Some mechanical ingenuity is required. The
business will depend on general commercial prosperity. Summer and fall
are the most busy seasons. No cessation of employment during the year.
The other parts of the work are too laborious for women. Our location is

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preferable, as we have water power and are convenient to market. Board,
$1.75 per week."

254. Lithoconia

, or artificial stone, is being used as a substitute for terra cotta, papier-
maché, &c. It is composed of mineral substances, and is insoluble in water.
It is used for making photograph frames, busts, and statuary, and for
architectural purposes. It is made in Roxbury, Mass. The proprietor and
inventor writes: "I employ fourteen women in manufacturing and finishing
lithoconia photograph frames. Their wages average $5 a week, ten hours a
day. Some are paid by the piece, and some by the day. Men earn from $1 to
$2 per day. Women learn in from one to four weeks. Cultivation of the eye
and finger, and great neatness are desirable in a learner. Girls accustomed to
drawing or fine needle work answer well. The prospect of more work is
good. My women work the year round. Women, I think, are more reliable
than men; that is, if told to do a work in a certain way, they will do it. Men
are more apt to experiment in a new business. Women might be employed
in gilding the frames. We have twelve men in New York doing that for us
now. My girls pay from $1.75 to $2 per week for board. I hear no complaint
of their houses; but, judging from my Scotch experience, the
accommodations in Scotland are far superior in an intellectual point of
view; but so far as pies and doughnuts go, American boarding houses have
the advantage."

255. Marble Workers.

The rough parts of marble working are wet, dirty, and laborious, but not the
finishing. Constant standing on the feet, and having the hands wet much of
the time, would not do for very delicate females. A marble worker writes:
"Sawing marble is heavy and wet work, and performed in the night as well
as the day. I do not see that women could be employed at it to any
advantage." Theodore Parker mentioned seeing a woman, in a marble yard
in Paris, sawing marble. I have been told that in Italy whole families engage
in chiselling the beautiful marble ornaments brought to this country. As a

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stone cutter, Charlotte Rebecca Schild, of Hanau, worked in Paris. Miss
McD. told me that she got situations for two girls with a marble cutter in
Hollidaysburg to do the fine part of marble chiselling.

256. Mineral Door Knobs.

Manufacturers of mineral door knobs write: "We have women to make
mineral door knobs, and to pack locks. They are paid by the piece, and
average $5 per week. They work from nine to ten hours a day. It requires
six months to learn. The prospect for further employment is small. Seasons
make no difference in the work. We find men better adapted to the work.
Our business affords little or no opportunity for the employment of women
to advantage. We have about two hundred women in busy seasons. When
men and women are employed in the same department, they talk too much."

257. Paper Cutters.

We read in "Women Artists" of a Dutch lady, "Joanna Koertin Block, who
produced from paper very beautiful cuttings. All that the engraver
accomplishes with the burin, she was able to do with the scissors. Country
scenes, marine views, animals, flowers, with portraits of perfect
resemblance, she executed in a marvellous manner." "Mrs. Dards opened a
new exhibition with flower paintings in the richest colors. They were exact
imitations of nature, done with fish bones."

258. Papier-Maché Finishers.

Papier-maché is made of paper ground into a pulp, and bleached if
necessary. It is moulded into various forms. It has been cast into figures of
life size. It is made into mouldings for the ornamental parts of bronzes. It is
lighter, more lasting, and less brittle than plaster. It can be colored or gilt.
Another article of the same name is made by gluing and pressing together,
very powerfully, sheets of prepared paper until they acquire the thickness of
pasteboard. They must be shaped while moist into the articles desired.

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When dry, they will be very hard and firm. They must be covered with
japan, or other varnish, and may be beautifully painted with flowers, birds,
landscapes, &c. Workboxes, portfolios, waiters, miniature cases, clock
faces, and many other beautiful articles may be made of it. The varnishing,
painting, and inlaying is done by women in the factories of England. Papier-
maché manufacturers in Boston write: "We employ women in pressing and
painting. The work is healthy. We pay $4 per week of ten hours a day. Men
and women do not perform the same kind of work. We pay learners $2.50
the first month, $3 the second, $3.50 the third, and $4 afterward. The
prospect of future employment is good. We find women have not a
mechanical eye. Board, $2 per week."

259. Pipes.

Meerschaum means "foam of the sea." The pipes are made from earth found
in the island of Samos. They are light, porous, and not easily broken. Some
pipes are sold as genuine that are made from the clay left after forming and
cutting the real pipes, but are of an inferior quality. A manufacturer of
meerschaum pipes told me he employs a woman to polish the pipes. It is
done by hand. She is paid $1.25 a dozen, and can do two or three dozen a
day, but they have not enough of work to give her more than a dozen a
week. A maker of white clay pipes told me: "The clay is brought from
England. Nimbleness of fingers is most that is required for success. There is
not much of that kind of work done now in our country, because pipes are
imported from Germany for what the labor costs here. They are retailed at
one penny apiece. Women used to make them here, and do now in European
countries. They can do all parts of the work. Putting them in the furnace and
baking them is warm work, but not more so than any other baking. The
work is paid for according to the number of pipes made. A woman can earn
about fifty cents a day for moulding, yet a man can earn $5 a day, because
he can mould faster, and also attend the furnace." Besides, the man owns
the tools and furnace, which do not cost a great deal, and I suppose would
last a lifetime. We have seen it stated that white clay smoking pipes are
made in Philadelphia by one person, who recently sent to England to
procure additional assistance.

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260. Porcelain.

Porcelain partakes of the nature of both earthenware and glass. It is a
connecting link between the two. Few men are willing to run the risk of
establishing porcelain and china-ware manufactories in this country, for
they have nearly all proved failures. The porcelain of China and Japan is
harder and more durable than that manufactured in Europe, but in beauty of
form and elegance of design the European excels. Our best articles of
household ware are mostly from England, those of an ornamental kind from
France. Much of the work in a porcelain factory could be done by women,
such as cutting the porcelain with wires, moulding the articles with a press,
and washing them over with dissolved porcelain to produce a gloss. They
could also bake them. Some do decorate and burnish them. (See China
Decorators.) Women and children are employed in Cornwall, England, in
preparing clay from china stone to be used by porcelain manufacturers,
paper makers, and calico dressers. Miss B. told me that, much of the fine
lacework seen on Dresden china is executed by women. It is very beautiful
and delicate. At Greenpoint, L. I., the proprietor once employed girls, but
now employs boys in preference. The men earn about $10 a week on an
average for their work, being paid by the piece. The best of materials for
making porcelain are found in this country, particularly in New Hampshire,
where porcelain, parian, and enamel flint are manufactured. Porcelain
earths are also found at Wilmington, Del., near Philadelphia, and in
Alabama and Texas.

261. Pottery and Earthenware.

"In Africa, in the manufacture of common earthen vessels for domestic use,
the women are as skilful as the men." In the making of stone and
earthenware, women could, if properly instructed, perform most of the
processes: those of throwing, turning, attaching handles, &c. Pressing might
perhaps tax their strength, and burning prove rather warm work. In
Germany, where the finer clay is used, women tramp the clay with their
feet, and cut it with wires to remove any small stones it may contain. One of
the disagreeable parts that fall to women in the potteries of Great Britain is

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that of washing and straining the clay. For turning large articles it requires
men of a peculiar make. They must be tall and have long arms, to enable
them to reach to the bottom of the vessels as they are being turned. Small
articles made by the hand are stronger than those formed by pressing. The
construction and management of wheels differ in Germany, England, and
the United States. The materials for making earthenware are obtained in
almost every part of the globe. At an earthenware factory I was told they
pay $2.50 a week to a boy the first year he is learning, and increase that
according to ability and industry. Flower pots are paid for by the piece, and
a man can earn from $1.50 to $5 a day. At C. & M.'s factory I saw girls and
women at work. Some were treading the lathe. It was done with the right
foot only, and must be very fatiguing. I noticed the hoops of the girls were
very much in the way. The girls receive one third as much as the men
working at the wheels, which is generally $3 a week for the girls. A woman
cutting claws of the clay with a hand press, told me she is paid by the piece,
and can earn about $4 a week. She can sit while at work. It requires strength
of hand. In another room girls were cutting clay with a wire, kneading with
the hand, and giving it to the potter, and, when the vessel is turned, taking it
off the wheel and placing it on a board to be baked. They are paid fifty
cents a day. In another room a woman was employed dressing the ware, that
is, selecting any that is imperfect and removing any surplus clay that may
have been accidentally left on, and setting aside any too defective for sale.
She receives about $3 a week. The proprietors have been thinking of getting
girls in place of some of the boys who are wild and difficult to manage. A
firm in East Boston write: "We employ four girls, paying $3.50 a week.
Girls are more generally employed in the old countries at potteries than in
this, but women will eventually be more employed here in that way. Pottery
is now in its infancy in this country. My girls work ten hours. The
employment is not unhealthy. My girls are all English. We employ them to
do light work only, that boys would do, if we had no women. Board, $2.50.
We employ them all the year. Spring and fall are the best seasons for work.
We hope to live to see the time when we shall have twenty women and four
men, instead of vice versa, as they are more steady and less expensive."

262. Stucco Work.

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"Women are not employed at this trade in this country; in England there are
some instances, but rarely. It is not unhealthy. The time spent in learning
depends altogether on the taste and natural talent of the learner. Boys
generally serve from three to five years. For ordinary work the
qualifications need not be of a very high order; but for moulding, &c., a
knowledge of drawing is essentially necessary. Summer and fall are the best
seasons for this work. Ten hours a day are the usual number. Women may
be employed at trimming and cleaning ornaments—also at making moulds
for casting the same." Rosina Pflauder, in Salzburg, assisted her husband in
stucco work.

263. Terra Cotta.

The list of articles made of this substance is comprised under two heads,
vases and garden pots, and ornaments for architecture. A Gothic church was
built of it in 1842 at Lever Bridge, England. The pulpit, reading desk,
benches, organ screen, and the whole of the decorations were made of terra
cotta. In the making of figures, women could do all except moulding. The
finishing up would be suitable and pretty work for them. "Mlle. de Faveau
has been peculiarly successful in her adaptation of terra cotta to artistic
purposes."

264. Transferrers on Wood.

We do not know whether a distinct class of people engage in this business,
or whether it is considered a branch of cabinet work. It is a light, pleasant
business, and if there is sufficient demand for it, women would do well to
engage in it.

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GLASS MANUFACTURERS.

265. Glass Manufacture.

All the materials for making good glass exist in the United States, and a
great deal of glassware is made from them. The largest manufactures are in
different parts of Massachusetts and in Pittsburg. The best glass for
windows and mirrors is imported. I think glass making is not altogether
suitable for women on account of the great heat, and necessity there would
be for mixing with men, and men there must be. Yet it need not be so in all
departments. Of the different kinds of ornamental window glass are
enamelled, embossed, etched, painted, white, and colored. At a glass factory
in Greenpoint, I saw some girls employed in breaking off the rough edges
of mustard cruets, cementing the metal tops on, wiping them clean, and
wrapping them up. They also cemented the tops on glass lamps.
Occasionally they are employed to tramp with their feet and knead with
their hands the English clay of which the vessels are made for holding the
materials that are fused to form glass. In a factory I saw a girl washing
glass, for which she is paid $3 a week—a day of ten hours. Two others were
tying up glass, and were paid $4 a week of ten hours a day. At one factory
in the East, they employ some girls to do the rough grinding, making
stoppers for bottles, &c. People who silver mirrors are very seriously
affected by the fumes of mercury, and more by the touch of the substance. A
trembling disease is produced, which carries off its victims early in life. In
France, some women are employed in this work. In blowing, moulding, and
pressing glass, women of strong lungs and ability to sustain great heat could
be employed. Casting glass requires greater physical strength than generally
falls to the lot of women. A glass-bottle manufacturer in Stoddard, N. H.,
writes: "I employ twelve women willowing demijohns. They are paid by the
piece, and can make about $3 per week, and board themselves. Men and
women are paid the same. The work can be learned in from four to five
weeks. They are paid at the same rate while learning. Half are Americans.

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Price of board here, $1.25." The Bay State Glass Co. "employ seventeen
women for selecting and papering ware. They are paid by the week, from
$3 to $5. It requires from one week to one month to learn. The prospect for
employment depends somewhat upon the secession movement. The women
are employed the year round, and work ten hours a day. Board, $1.50 to $2
a week." The Suffolk Glass Co. inform us they "employ one girl in capping
lamps, &c. The work affords plenty of air and exercise. Their girl is paid by
the day, and earns $4 a week, working ten hours a day. The work done by
women could not be given to men. The reason they employ a woman is that
women are employed by others for the same work. Men could accomplish
much more in their work, but not enough to pay the difference in their
wages. Boys are sometimes employed for such work. Women receive $2
while learning. Spring and fall are the busy seasons, but work is furnished
all the year. Board, $2 to $2.50." The Union Glass Co., Boston, write: "We
employ women in assorting the different qualities of ware, in cementing
glass and brass parts together, and in cleaning glass. Their average pay is
$3.50 per week, ten hours a day. There is no comparison in the prices of
male and female labor, as they do not perform the same kind. The laws of
supply and demand regulate pay, excepting that very valuable women get
twenty-five to fifty per cent. extra pay. Men spend from seven years to a
lifetime learning the business—women a year or so to learn the best paid
kind of labor. There is little chance of women rising above $5 per week, as
they perform only a certain department of labor. There is generally constant
employment to good hands all the year. We employ fifteen, because it is
customary and found expedient. Men can be employed at a better profit in
other departments. Remuneration twenty-five to fifty per cent. less than
men would require. The glass manufacture is carried on chiefly in the New
England and Middle States."

266. Blowers.

I called in a factory where men were blowing glass bells to color and gild
for Christmas trees. The man, a German, said in Germany women make
them. The women there earn fifty cents a week at it, while men earn $2,

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though they do the work no better, and no more of it. There a person can
live as well on $3 a week as on $10 here.

267. Beads.

Beads are made to a limited extent in this country, but nearly all are of
French or German manufacture. Some cheap beads are made of potato and
colored, and some made in imitation of coral. E. employs girls to make
baskets, headdresses, &c., of beads. They cannot earn more than $2.50 a
week of ten hours a day. He has most of it done in winter. Another
gentleman, who has beads made into bracelets, necklaces, &c., gives the
work mostly to married ladies, who do it in their leisure hours, and to
school girls. They do so, because they can get it done more cheaply than if
they employed those who do it to earn a living. They pay for such work by
the gross, and a person could not earn over $3 a week at it. Putting the
necklaces on cards is done by some ladies they employ by the week. Spring
and winter are the busy seasons. The importation and selling of beads have
formed quite a business in New York for some years. G. judges from the
appearance of the applicants whether they are to be trusted with materials,
takes an account of the kind and quantity given, and the address of the
applicant, requiring them to be returned in a week's time. B. has children's
coral bracelets and armlets made up, for which he employs two English
girls, who each earn $1 a day at their work.

268. Cutters or Grinders.

It requires strength, firmness of nerve, and cultivation of eye to grind glass.
One man told me he spent seven years learning the business in England. In
this country, apprentices seldom spend more than three or four years at it,
but do not of course learn it so thoroughly. A glass cutter told me that two
girls, daughters of his boss in Jersey City, made drops for chandeliers. They
were ground on a lapidary's wheel. As drops are no longer fashionable, they
are not made. They also cut stones for breastpins. Glass cutters in New York
earn from $9 to $10 per week. Glass cutting could be done by women. No
women in this country have yet engaged in it. It is not very neat work, as

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the wet sand will of course get over the clothes. The number of straps and
wheels is very numerous, and if any women desire to engage in it, we
would advise them to lay aside hoops and don the Bloomer costume.
Grinding is tiresome to the lower limbs, which are kept in motion, like a
person operating on a sewing machine. It requires taste and ingenuity, as the
figures of an experienced workman must be made by the eye, no pattern
being used. Apprentices usually receive $2 a week the first year, $3 the
next, $4 the next, and so on.

269. Embossers.

In preparing gas and lamp globes to emboss, they are first covered with a
dark-colored substance. Girls then trace figures on them with a chemical
which corrodes the glass. The tracing is learned in a few hours, and could
be done without much practice. At a glass factory, I saw a girl who received
$2 a week for tracing. Those who have worked at it for some time become
very expeditious, and do piece work. They receive fifty cents a dozen, and a
fast hand can do two dozen a day. The operatives work nine hours.

270. Enamellers.

A glass stainer and enameller in Utica writes: "In reply to your circular, I
give what information I can. My daughters assist me in staining and
enamelling glass. Their wages are worth from $5 to $8 each. Learners are
paid from $2 to $4. To learn the work requires from three to five years.
Spring and fall are the most busy times. The business will increase. I
consider eight hours a day long enough for women to spend at this kind of
work, as they have to be on their feet most of the time, but men can work
ten hours. All parts are suitable for women except drawing (?) and the
heavy parts of the work." A large manufacturer of enamelled glass told me
that in England hundreds of women are employed in enamelling glass. He
employs a number in Newark, N. J., paying by the week from $4 to $5. He
thinks it not more unhealthy than working in any other paint. He thinks the
opinion existing that the business is prejudicial to health, arises mostly from
the girls being so very careless of themselves. One should be as careful in

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that work as in any other. He said he knew girls working at it in England for
eighteen years, who never suffered any bad effects from it. It requires but a
short time to learn to put the enamel on, but some time to acquire
proficiency. He and his partner expect to increase the manufacture of it, but
think of using a machine that will do away with women's work in applying
the enamel. He complained that their girls lacked promptness. They keep
them employed all the year. They work nine hours in summer, and eight in
winter. He thinks a few women with artistic taste might learn etching, and
execute their own designs. He would be willing to pay a good lady designer
$8 or $10 a week—yet he pays his men for that work from $12 to $15. (!!!)
He thinks, in a factory, a lady so employed would find it most pleasant to
have a separate apartment. My opinion is that one or two lady designers and
a few enamellers might find employment in this line. M. says enamelling is
very deleterious. The enamel is made of three fourths lead and a fine sand,
with a small quantity of tin. It is of a softer nature than glass, and is applied
with stencil plates and brushes. As the enamel dries a dust arises, which is
inhaled, and is more or less injurious to the lungs, producing something like
the painter's colic. It also affects the eyes some. A glass stainer in Boston,
who employs some women to enamel, writes "he pays them by the day, and
they earn from $4 to $6 per week. They receive as much as men would for
the same class of work. It requires but a few days to learn enamelling; eight
or nine years for glass staining. He sometimes pays part or two thirds wages
to learners. The prospect for future employment is uncertain, as little of the
above work is done in this country. To get near the materials is an item in
selecting a location."

271. Engravers.

An engraver on glass told me there are only from ten to thirteen glass
engravers in New York. In Bohemia, whole families engrave glass; and
women do so in other parts of Europe also. A good glass engraver is paid $3
a day.

272. Painters.

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Painting on glass was practised by nuns and monks some ages back. H. said
he used to employ ladies to paint on glass. His wife would give instruction
in painting and transferring on glass, for $20—$10 to be paid on entering,
the other $10 when the learner feels that she is thorough. To paint on glass,
one must understand colors, as opaque paints would not answer. One must
have some knowledge of shades to attain excellency in decorative painting.
Embellished glass is cheaper than stained glass, and does not require a
furnace; yet if burned, has the pigment rendered more durable. In England,
many wealthy ladies buy traced glass and paints, and color and shade it.
Pictures transferred on glass can be finely finished up and burnt. Painted
glass is more brilliant than stained. H. thinks to learn the art is a safe
investment. He thought a few ladies might learn painting and transferring
on glass, Grecian painting, and wax flowers, and turn it to account by
travelling through the country, stopping in small towns, exhibiting and
selling specimens and giving instruction. Painting glass need not be merely
a source of amusement, but prove an art of utility. H. spoke of some people
as speculators—not practitioners in the art (such I would say he would
make of ladies). He thinks, among connections and at fairs a lady might
meet with ready sale for painted glass. The pieces could be framed to hang
at a window or place on a table. Painted glass is less costly than stained
glass. A glass gilder can easily earn $2 a day. Women can do the filling in
with very little instruction. It would probably take several months' practice
to learn to form the letters perfectly.

273. Stainers.

Stained glass is now generally used for churches, and to some extent for
dwellings. The Germans are the most successful in staining glass. There are
two kinds of stained glass—the pot metal, the coloring substances of which
are fused in the glass and then burnt. The pictures of the other kind are
formed of small pieces, each one painted separately, burnt, and united with
blacklead. Frequently a window is formed of hundreds of these pieces. A
picture of stained glass looks on the right side like a rich oil painting on
canvas. I have been told there are 18,000 shades of stained glass. G. charges
$6 a square foot for stained glass of a fine kind. There is a lady in England,

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that fills large orders for the stained glass windows of churches and
cathedrals. Madame Bodichon writes as follows of a convent of Carmelite
nuns she visited at Mans, France: "By the direction of the sisters, glass
windows of all sorts, and in every stage of progress, were shown to us by an
intelligent young man—one of the artists in the employ of the convent. He
told us there were twenty-seven employés, two of them German artists; but
the sisters arrange everything, carry on all the immense correspondence,
and execute orders not only for France, but for America, Rome, and
England, and other countries. Three of the nuns are occupied in painting
upon glass themselves, but the principal part of the work is done by the
artists, under the direction of the ladies." It requires a person of artistic skill
and taste to excel in staining glass, and the work is best appreciated by
people acquainted with art. It would require at least three or four years to
learn the art well. A knowledge of other styles of painting is not of much
assistance. The paint must be put on very thickly, but very evenly. There
seems to be a combination of arts in the business to one who performs all
the parts. A man must be enough of a glazier to cut glass, enough of a
chemist to understand the colors to be used and the length of time the glass
should be exposed to heat, enough of a designer to prepare his own patterns,
and enough of an artist to color with taste. A man can earn at least $18 or
$20 a week, who is proficient in the art. The business has increased greatly
during the last few years in the United States, and is continuing to increase.
Much of the stained glass used in the United States is of home manufacture.
The designs for stained glass are usually made by the proprietor of an
establishment. Skill in drawing is very desirable for any one working at the
business. The art is one that affords exercise for inventive talent, artistic
skill, and good taste. In a few glass-staining establishments, girls do the
tracing. It requires an apprenticeship of four years to learn the grinding,
enamelling, and staining of glass. A boy is usually paid $1.50 a week the
first year, but he is expected to grind colors, clean brushes, go errands, &c.
An employer informed me he pays from $1 to $3 a day to men for staining
glass. S. spent about seven years in England learning the business. He
painted a window not long ago for $5,000. He does his own designing. He
says it would not pay to have separate designers. He is acquainted with
some secret in coloring, that he would not impart for a great deal. Great

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progress has been made in the art in this country during the last few years.
It requires more skill than painting on canvas.

274. Watch Crystals.

M. told us there are two kinds of watch crystals made in this country: the
English and Dutch. The English are the best. The Dutch make them in a
cheaper way. Men bend, cut out, and clip them. Females grind the edges.
The Dutch can be known from the English by a more sudden rounding near
the edges, while the English round from the centre equally. In
Williamsburg, German women can be seen at work in watch crystal
factories. B. told me he used to "employ girls to grind and polish glasses.
They were paid $3 a week—ten hours a day. It requires but two or three
weeks to learn, and during that time they are not paid, because of the time
lost in giving instruction and the material wasted. Now it is all done by
Germans, and Americans need not expect to get in." V. confirmed the
statement. He says it is mostly done by German families, and the women
that are hired are never paid over $3 a week. It is light and steady work, and
they are employed all the year, and do not work in the same apartment as
men. In some of the factories of Europe, from one hundred to one hundred
and fifty women are employed.

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CHINA DECORATORS.

275. China Decorators.

We find that in France, some years back, many females earned a livelihood
by painting on porcelain. During the last century, a Madame Gerard, "who
possessed a large fortune, had a hotel furnished with facilities for painting
Sevres. Her splendid cupboards of polished mahogany were gilded and
bronzed, and their contents looked like a rich collection for the gratification
of taste rather than for sale. She purchased some pieces for sixty and eighty
louis d'ors. A pair of vases, not very large, painted with sacred subjects, sold
for 26,000 livres." "There are two distinct methods of painting in use for
china and earthenware: one is transferred to the bisque, and is the method
by which the ordinary painted ware is produced; and the other transferred
on the glaze." In the former process, women called transferrers and cutters
are employed. The cutter trims away the superfluous paper around the
pattern, which the transferrer applies to the ware, and rubs with flannel to
produce an impression. She then washes the paper off, and the ware is ready
for the hardening kiln. Women are excluded from that department termed
ground laying, though, from the care and lightness of touch required, it is
very suitable. In Staffordshire, E., great opposition was made some years
back to women becoming decorators, and even now they are not permitted
to use a hand rest. In France, and to a limited extent in England, decorating,
gilding, and burnishing are done by women. This is probably one reason
that imported China is cheaper. Most of those in France and England who
attain respectable skill in decorating, are the wives or daughters of working
manufacturers. Besides the mechanical skill, it requires a very exact
knowledge of the effects of the coloring matters employed, as they are
much changed by being burnt. Decorating is certainly a beautiful
employment for women, but few in this country have the opportunity and
are willing to apply themselves long enough to learn the art. At K.'s china
warerooms, Philadelphia, I was told, no establishments of any size in the

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United States are engaged in the decoration of china, because they can get it
done more cheaply in England and France. K. employs Englishmen to do
what decorating he wishes to have done. He employs women to burnish.
The following contradictory statement I found in the "Manufactures of
Philadelphia:" "Decorating porcelain and china ware, which had been
imported plain, is done in one establishment in Philadelphia to an amount
exceeding $75,000 per annum." At H.'s, New York, I saw women
burnishing china. It is merely a mechanical operation, consisting in rubbing
the gilding with agate, after being burnt. The girls earn from $3.50 to $4.00
a week. It requires care and physical strength. One girl was cleaning
superfluous paint off the china. Women might learn to make impressions for
letters, flowers, and other patterns. I saw an English lady in New York
decorating china. A lady took lessons of either her or her husband, to teach
in the school of design. S. employs one woman for painting, and fifteen for
burnishing china. China decorating is usually paid for by the piece. Mixing
the colors for china painting is not more unhealthy than mixing them for
canvas, and putting them on not more so than any other sedentary
occupation. A French decorator told me that in Paris he gave private
instruction to some ladies who learned it for a pastime, and a few who made
a business of it. Boston, New York, Philadelphia, and New Orleans are the
only places where china is painted in the United States. L. thinks a person
of taste and abilities could learn in one year, earning nothing during the
time, and after that earn from $5 to $10 a week. He pays his burnishers $3 a
week. Another decorator told me he pays his burnishers (girls) from $2 to
$2.50 a week. The foreman of a large establishment in New York told me
that it requires several years to learn to decorate perfectly. Most decorators
design their own patterns, and usually earn $12 a week. He says, in busy
seasons it is difficult to get enough of good burnishers. His girls work only
in daylight, and earn from $3 to $5 a week. They are busy all the year—
most so three months before New Year. It requires three months' practice to
become a good burnisher. A learner receives $1 a week from the time she
commences to learn burnishing: he thinks it is not hard on the eyes. The
work is paid for by the piece. If there was a higher protective duty, more
decorating would be done in the United States.

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LEATHER.

276. Leather.

A leather dresser, somewhere in New York State, writes: "Leather dressing
is a disagreeable, wet business, fit only for men. After leather is dressed, all
the other work can be done by women. We cut by measure and by pattern. A
person cutting and making should earn one hundred per cent. Women can
cut, make, and sell as well as men, I suppose even better."

277. Currying.

The currying of skins might be done by women. Cutting it of the desired
thickness, soaking it in water, and working it with a small stone, cleaning it
with a brush, and, in the drying shed, applying oil and tallow, would not
require very long practice for one of any mechanical talent. The skin is
softened by being doubled and washed with a grooved board. It is then
carefully shaved, and worked again, after which it is blackened and grained.
The work would require some strength, but not more than the ordinary
process of washing clothes. All the work must be performed standing. The
process of converting the skins of sheep, lambs, and kids into soft leather, is
called tawing, and is somewhat lighter work than currying; yet the leather
requires much stretching and rubbing. I am sure the work would not be
more, if so offensive, as morocco sewing.

278. Harness.

A harness maker told me that a lady who stitches harness of the best quality,
can earn from $1.25 to $1.50 a day. He pays $1 a set for stitching the blinds.
The perforations are made by a man, and they are stitched by hand. Not a
great many are engaged in it, and he thinks the prospect good of learners

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obtaining employment. Many earn $6 or $7 a week. He employs two
women all the year. A person that can sew well, can learn in two or three
weeks. It requires some instruction. A maker of horse collars told me his
women stitch collars by machine; formerly by hand. He pays six cents a
pair. The wife of one of his workmen stitches twelve an hour, with one of
Howe's machines. B. employs from fifty to seventy-five girls to make fancy
harness, horse blankets, and coach tassels. Fancy bridles he has stitched by
Singer's machine. Good operators can earn from $5 to $7 a week, and for
leather work are paid by the week. Spring and fall are the most busy
seasons. The fashions of fancy leather work change. One gentleman, who
employs many girls in making harness trimmings, says the cloth pieces are
made by hand, the leather by machinery. In Newark, Bridgeport, and New
Haven, much of the stitching for the South is done by machines, and
women are employed. The English harness is considered the best, and is
done by hand. In England, men called "bridle cutters" get large quantities of
bridles to make up, and employ from one hundred to two hundred girls to
do the stitching. A lady who has quite an establishment in New York, and
employs a number of work people, told me that she pays them each from $2
to $6 a week. She thinks machine operating is trying on the health, but not
so bad as sewing with a needle. She pays by the week. Women do as well as
men, except for heavy work. The trade can be learned in a few weeks. She
pays learners something. Her hands have work all the year, but are most
busy from October till the end of December. They work ten hours. She
prefers men for most of the work. She would like American women, but
cannot get them. She says girls think more of having a beau than laying up
a few dollars in a bank, and consequently spend all they make on dress. A
manufacturer writes: "Working on leather is considered very healthy. I
employ thirteen women in the manufacture of fancy bridles, riding and
driving reins, riding martingales, &c. They average $1 per day. Three of
them run stitching machines. All are paid by the piece, except one, who
does the overseeing and writing. We think the girls receive as good pay as
the men. Considerable practice is necessary to do the work well. Learners
are paid for all work that is sufficiently well done to be salable. Good
judgment, accurate eye, and nimble fingers, best fit one for the occupation.
As our business is wholesale, it depends upon orders. Spring and fall are the
most busy seasons. Sometimes the women are entirely out of work for a

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short time in winter. They never work over ten hours. We will not employ
foreigners."

279. Jewel and Instrument Cases.

At a manufactory, I was told they employ some girls, paying by the piece.
The girls can earn $4.50 to $5 a week, of ten hours a day. It does not require
long to learn. In busy seasons it is difficult to get good hands, and they have
to advertise frequently. At another place, the proprietor told me he used to
employ girls who earned $4 or $5 a week, but he prefers boys, because they
can do all parts of the work. At a manufactory of morocco and velvet jewel
cases, the man told me he pays girls $4.50 and $5 a week, of ten hours a
day. In busy seasons it is difficult to get good hands.

280. Morocco Sewers.

At a morocco manufactory, I was told by the proprietor, a German, that he
employs girls, paying twelve cents a dozen, and they can sew from five to
twelve dozen a day. He wants hands, and of course would speak favorably
of the occupation. He says they can have work all the year except one or
two weeks. At an American manufacturer's, I was told it is wet, dirty work,
and requires considerable time and practice to learn to do it quickly. After
working at it constantly four or five years, a good hand may be able to earn
from $5 to $7 a week. Most of it is done in the families of tanners. Some
women undertake it, but give it up because they do it so slowly it will not
pay. The man said nearly or quite all who work at it are Germans, and the
wives and daughters of those in the business. They are paid twelve cents a
dozen. The occupation he thinks is full in New York, for women. Beginners
are apt to hurt their fingers, as needles are used, the sides of which are
triangular. Sewing five skins a day is considered very good work. Dr.
Wynne says: "Exhalations from animal substances, which are very
offensive to the senses, more especially to that of smell, not only appear to
be in most instances innoxious, but often of absolute advantage in affording
a protection from disease." Most morocco is made in Philadelphia, none
South or West. S. employs sixteen women, and pays good hands from $4 to

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$5 per week. He thinks there are at least two hundred morocco sewers in
Philadelphia. It does not take long to learn. He pays from the first. They
have work all the year, but the prospect for learners is poor. At A.'s,
Philadelphia, I saw some women sewing up goat skins, which were to be
tanned. It is extremely disagreeable work, as the skins are wet and smell
offensively. The women are paid twelve cents a dozen, and find their own
thread. A steady hand can earn from $3.50 to $6 a week, and can always
find work. They are most busy in spring and fall. A morocco dresser writes:
"He pays by the piece, and his women each earn about seventy-five cents a
day. A woman can learn in two or three weeks. The prospect for future
employment is very poor, as skins are mostly tanned now without sewing. A
location must always be had where pure water is abundant."

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281. Pocket Books.

One man told me he employs a woman to make portemonaies, paying $5 a
week. On Broadway a firm employs four or five women, paying from $3 to
$6 a week. It requires but two or three months to learn the business. The
women sew with a machine, paste morocco on, and varnish some parts. C.
pays his girls from $3.50 to $4 a week. At another place one of the firm told
me their girls earn $3, $4, and $5 a week. It is piece work, and requires but
three or four weeks to learn. A smart girl can earn $2 the first week. The
busy seasons are spring and fall. They find it difficult to get enough good
hands in those seasons. The business is mostly confined to New York and
Philadelphia. A manufacturer in New York told me, about two hundred
women are employed in making pocket books, &c., in that city. He pays
$4.50 a week, but they have a certain quantity to do in that time. It requires
but a short time to learn to do the stitching only (which he has done by
hand), but about a year to learn to do all parts. He pays $2 a week while
they are learning, and then he increases at the rate of twenty-five cents a
week after a few months, and at the end of the year some are earning $3;
some $3.25. Neatness in cutting and fitting the parts together is desirable.
He keeps his hands employed all the year. There is a scarcity of good hands,
but an abundance of indifferent ones. A manufacturer in Maine writes: "We
employ from eight to twelve American girls. They are paid by the piece,
and earn from $12 to $16 per month. Boys earn about the same as girls.
They are paid while learning, if the work is well done. It requires about a
year to become proficient."

282. Saddle Seats.

In Philadelphia, I was told at a large saddle store that they employ women
to stitch saddles, paying from fifty cents apiece for common ones to $1.25
for those of a better quality. At a large saddle and harness manufactory in
New York, I was told they employ women to stitch by the machine and by
hand. They are paid by the day, as there is a variety of work, and their girls
are not confined to exclusive branches. In prosperous times their hands are

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employed most of the year. Spring and fall are the best seasons for work.
There are small factories in most of the Southern and Western cities. The
hand sewers earn but $3 and $5 a week; a few operators can make $6. At S.
& M.'s they employ about twenty women in the different branches, and,
when business is good, have work all the year. It does not require long to
learn. They are paid by the week, from $3 to $4. Prospect dull. This kind of
work is mostly done in Newark.

283. Tanning.

Leather can now be tanned by a chemical process in a few days. Leather has
been made so thin, and received so high a polish, that it has been used for
making bonnets in Paris. Buckskin is used for making many articles in this
country. Shoulder braces, drawers, shirts and gloves, are made of it. A
tanner writes: "I know of no country where this business exists in which
females are employed, unless perhaps in some of the smaller German
States, where female service is not deemed incompatible with the services
of the ox and the horse. The tanning business in all its departments is
laborious and offensive, and although not unhealthy, is dirty and
disagreeable, requiring a great amount of muscular power. I know of no
employment less congenial to the taste of women, or less suited to their
elevation. Morocco is polished by hand, and in some places is done by
women. A tanner writes: "It requires strong and healthy men to perform any
part of a tanner's trade, and they do not get very highly paid at that. The
business is decidedly dirty, and oftentimes very disagreeable, not fit for
women in any particular. In order to conduct the business successfully, one
needs to be located by a good stream of water, or where it can be easily
obtained, plenty of bark, and not far from market." Among the Cossacks,
some women are employed in tanning.

284. Trunks.

A trunk maker said he thought women could not well put the tacks in
trunks, because the trunks are first put together, and are heavy lifting; but I
think it could be done by them. Putting the linings in trunks could certainly

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be done by women. The man referred to said he thought some women are
employed in a large trunk factory in Newark, because the proprietors
thought they could get their work done cheaper, and he hoped they failed,
because of their motive. The employment of women, he urged, cuts down
men's labor, and so all labor is reduced below its worth, just as it is now in
England. There a woman must neglect her home duties, to help make a
living. If women, he added, were paid at the same rate as men, and so there
was a fair competition, he would not object to women being employed.

285. Whips.

V., of New York, says he and his partner have whips manufactured in
Westfield, Mass., and some in the House of Refuge, Charlestown. Westfield
is the principal manufacturing place for whips in the United States. The
daughters of farmers for miles around the town braid lashes. The covers are
put on the handles by machines attended by girls. That part is usually done
in factories. The part called buttons is also made by girls, and done by hand.
Girls can earn from $3 to $5 a week. They receive about three fourths the
price paid men, because the work is not so laborious. It requires from three
to nine months to learn, according to the skill of the person. They are paid
what they can earn while learning. They have been able to keep their hands
employed all the year, but fear they cannot this winter (1860). In 1857,
there were probably but one half the working class able to obtain
employment. The prospect for work in this line is better than in most others,
for the whip market has increased twofold in the last ten years, and is likely
to extend. The work done at home is piece work, and that done in shops is
usually so. The business suffers in hard times, for people then think they
can dispense with whips. V. said the Philadelphians and Yankees have
different views in regard to woman's labor. The Yankees know they can get
it done cheaper by women, and the Philadelphians think they cannot get it
so well done by women. The American Whip Company write "they employ
eighty females; about one half are American, and one half Irish. Women are
employed in any department where they can labor with propriety and
advantage. The prospect is that the business will always continue as good as
now. All seasons answer equally well for the work. During working hours,

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one of the women often reads aloud for the benefit of the others in the
room. Board, $2 per week." "The reason why women are employed at
making whips is, the work being light, they can do as much as a man, and
competition compels the employer to get his work done for the lowest
wages." P. & S., in Philadelphia, employ some girls to braid lashes. It
requires about six weeks to learn. Some earn $3, and some $4 a week,
working from nine to ten hours, but are paid by the dozen. All their girls are
Americans, as are the generality of females in this business. "In London,"
says Mayhew, "the cane sellers are sometimes about two hundred in
number, on a fine Sunday, in the summer, and on no day are there fewer
than thirty sellers of whips in the streets, and sometimes—not often—one
hundred." The branch of finishing in whip making has been entered by
women in Birmingham, England, and created some opposition. Sellers of
large, coarse whips usually frequent market houses—those with fancy
whips stand on the sidewalks.

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WHALEBONE WORKERS.

286. Whalebone Workers.

The natural color of whalebone is nearly the same as gray limestone rock.
The black ones we buy are colored. Whalebone is exported from New York.
About four hundred American vessels are employed in whaling, and about
ten thousand men. Enough whalebone can be prepared in one factory to
supply the whole United States, I was told by one of the proprietors of a
whalebone factory. He paid a boy $2 a week for tying up whalebone for
parasols and umbrellas (which work could be done by a girl). Small holes
are punched by machinery in the ends of bones to be used for stays. A
woman runs a thread through, and ties them in bunches. She is paid one
cent a bunch, and, as she ties up five hundred or six hundred a week, earns
$5 or $6. At another factory, I was told they employ girls and women in
tying up some whalebones and stringing others. They sit while at work, and
are paid by the week, working ten hours a day. They keep their hands all the
year, but are most busy in the fall. Tying up whalebones looks simple, but it
requires practice to become expert, and requires discrimination to select the
indifferent from the salable. The woman we saw earns $4.50, but she has
been at it several years, and is very expert. Women seldom earn more than
$3. Girls might polish the bones—a something I saw a boy doing.

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BRUSH MANUFACTURERS.

287. Brush Manufacturers.

Women have from the earliest period been employed in making brushes. In
France, women are employed in preparing bristles for brushes, bleaching,
washing, straightening, and assorting them. If they are so employed in this
country it is at Lansingburg, N. Y. Indeed the finer bristles are all imported.
The process of preparing bristles is simple, merely washing them and
placing them in a preparation of sulphur to bleach them. "The great art in
making brushes for artists is so to arrange the hairs that their ends may be
made to converge to a fine point when moistened and drawn between the
lips; and it is said that females are more successful than men in preparing
the small and delicate pencils." In shaving brushes the bristles must be so
arranged as to form a cone. This requires skill, and commands handsome
wages. A large number of bristles are imported from Germany, Russia, and
a considerable quantity from France; yet the United States furnish some. We
think the owners of pork houses, and farmers in the Southern and Western
States, would find the saving of bristles to justify the trouble of doing so, as
they bring a good price. In this country, the process in making finer brushes,
called drawing, is mostly done by women. The heavier kind of brushes is
seldom made by women. Persons working in horn, wood, whalebone, ivory,
gutta percha, pearl, &c., prepare the handles. Few if any brush makers have
them prepared in their own establishments. I called on a brush maker whose
manufactory is in Boston. The clerk says they never have any difficulty in
getting plenty of good hands. They work by the piece. He says, if you
advertise there, you are sure to have hundreds of applicants, many of whom
are already in business, but hope to get better wages for the same amount of
work, or less work for the same wages. A manufacturer told me that he
employs boys, who do piecework and earn from $5 to $10 a week, but
thinks he will employ girls, as he could get drawers for from $3 to $4 per
week. The girls sit while at this work. H., a maker of tooth, nail, and hair

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brushes, told me his is the only tooth brush manufactory in the United
States. His girls looked clean and orderly, and had intelligent faces. Those
working in the house were of Irish extraction—those who worked at home,
Americans. Most of them attend night school. H. finds his girls more
careless about their work Monday morning than at any other time. He
attributes it to their talking and thinking of what they saw and heard the day
before. Those that sew well he finds work best for him. (I expect that
principle generally holds good—those that work well in one business are
likely to in another, because they are industrious and give their attention to
it.) If the work is not well done, he takes it out and makes them do it over.
As it is done by the piece, it of course is their own loss. They engage in
trepanning, wiring, and trimming brushes. The trepanning and wiring are
done altogether by women in England. They are paid by the piece, those
wiring and trepanning earn from $3 to $4. The lady that trims earns $6 a
week. The work is very neat and well adapted to women. It requires about
three months to learn. Women are paid something while learning. Care and
nicety must be used to fill the little cavities in the brush with bristles closely
and firmly. The business is not good, on account of competition in the
manufacture with European countries, where labor is cheaper. Women
cannot polish the ivory well, as it is done by hand and is very hard work.
Women are superior in the branches pursued by them. $2.50 is the usually
price paid by workwomen for board in New York. A brush maker in
Philadelphia writes: "I pay from eighteen to twenty cents per thousand
holes. No men employed by us in this branch. Boys spend four or five years
at this trade. Girls spend six months learning one branch. The prospect for
more work of this kind is poor. Our women are all Americans, and work the
year round. Women are superior in their branch." P. & M. employ girls to
make ostrich feather dusters, and they earn from $4 to $6 per week. They
have had employment all the year. While at work the girls can sit or stand,
as they please. Their girls also paint the handles. A manufacturer of ostrich
feather dusters told me, he pays girls from $2 to $3 a week for coloring and
putting the feathers in handles. They can always get enough of hands. The
girls work in daylight only.

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IVORY CUTTERS AND WORKERS.

288. Ivory Workers.

Ivory is generally turned in a lathe—a machine that differs some in size and
shape, according to the material worked. Ivory, wood, and metal can be cut
by it into almost any shape. The ivory nut is now much used as a substitute
for animal ivory. In a store for the sale of ivory goods, the lady in
attendance told me some of their articles are imported from Germany, and
some they have made. In Germany, some women are employed in ivory
carving. The lady thought it could not be done to any extent in this country,
because labor is so high. (But if men can afford to do it, pray, why cannot
women?) The carving is done with steel instruments, and requires
considerable strength. "Barbara Helena Lange, of Germany, earned
celebrity in the seventeenth century, by engraving on copper, and carving
figures in ivory and alabaster." "Barbara Julia Preisler was skilled in various
branches of art; could model in wax, and work in ivory and alabaster, and
added painting and copper engraving to the list of her accomplishments." H.
& F. have four or five girls to count and pack their ivory goods, but none to
polish. An ivory worker in Providence writes: "Women are employed in
carving and turning in Russia, and carving in England. I can say for myself,
that I have known many women to transact the business equal to the
smartest in the trade in England, when the husband is deceased, and the
widow has been left to support a large family, and they have never failed to
do so creditably. I know of but two in this country, one in Providence, R. I.;
the other in Westfield, Mass. They earn from $4 to $6 a week. The labor is
light for women, and they could earn the same as men. Carving could be
learned in six months, turning in one year. To be able to superintend, two
years' practice is required. The prospect for employment is not flattering. In
this country, women work eight hours; men, ten. In England, France, and
Scotland, they work eleven hours. In New York, principals could employ
twenty-five carvers and one hundred turners, and I can see no objection to

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employing women. Women excel in the business, if to their taste. Large
cities or manufacturing districts are the best localities. They must have
cultivated minds, or they are not suitable for the business, as it is necessary
to invent and execute new styles and patterns." In Connecticut, some
hundreds of families labor in the ivory comb manufactories, and are paid
per week $4.50, and by the piece earn from $5 to $6 a week. An ivory
turner in Essex, Conn., writes: "I usually employ two girls; one packing
goods, the other on fancy turning. They earn from $10 to $20 per month.
My help consists mostly of men. The work is very healthy. It is piece work.
The girls earn $1 per day of ten hours. They are paid by the piece, the same
price as men, and earn as much. A learner receives $1 per week and board.
A woman can do nearly as much as a man after working one year or more.
The work is very clean and easy. A girl to succeed should be active,
intelligent, and ingenious." A gentleman who has ornaments made of
vegetable ivory, told me he could hire Germans to turn them for him at from
seventy-five cents to $1 a day.

289. Combs.

The comb is an article of primitive date, and has been frequently found in
use among nations when first visited by civilized men. Madame de B. told
me she had frequently seen women in Europe, making, mending, and
polishing combs of tortoise shell, bone, and ivory. In Leominster, in 1853,
264 men were employed in the comb factory, at an average of $7 per week,
board $2.50—women at an average of $3 a week, board $1.50. A firm in
Lancaster, Penn., write: "We employ seven women, because they are better
adapted to the work. They are paid by the week, from $2 to $3.50, and work
ten hours a day. They do not perform the same kind of work as men. Boys
are apprentices until twenty-one years of age—females spend but a few
weeks learning. All seasons are alike. Women do the light work best. Board,
$1.25." Some manufacturers of ivory combs write: "Our establishment,
which has been in operation over thirty years, formerly gave employment to
a large number of female operatives; but of late years, so many labor-saving
machines have been introduced, that the number employed is very small. At
present, less than a dozen women are engaged in our factory, while we

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employ some forty men. We expect all who are employed by us to work
eleven hours each day, except Saturdays during the winter, when we close
before sundown. Most of our girls work by the piece, and earn from 70
cents to $1 per day. To the others we pay $4 per week. The time required to
learn the business varies with the character of the work—in some cases two
months, in others not more than one week. The only qualifications needed
are carefulness, activity, and common sense. The work is light, and not
particularly unhealthy. The only reason why it should be unhealthy at all, is
its sedentary nature. Board, from $1.75 to $2 per week. We have uniformly,
since the commencement of our business, refused to employ any but
American girls of known good moral character. There have been few or
none of them that have not possessed a good common-school education,
and some of them have enjoyed and well improved the advantages of such
schools as those at South Hadley, Pittsfield, and New Haven. It is a source
of gratification and pride to us, that we are able at present to call to mind no
less than seven of our operatives who have married clergymen; one is now a
missionary at the Sandwich Islands, and numbers of them are respected and
useful members of society." A manufacturer of horn or bone combs writes:
"The part assigned to women is the staining and the bending or shaping of
the comb. The business is healthy."

290. Piano Keys.

I cannot learn of any women being employed in sawing piano keys, but I
think they could do it, if they were properly instructed, and they certainly
could polish them. The turning of the ivory in the sun to bleach is usually
performed by a boy, and occupies several hours a day. The assorting of
piano keys and putting them in small paper boxes could certainly be
performed by women, but I was told it requires considerable experience and
judgment. The sharps are made of ebony, sawed by circular wheels moved
by steam. When large blocks have been sawed into smaller pieces, women
could then saw them into keys. It would only require care. The noise of the
machinery and the black dust flying might be disagreeable at first. A
manufacturer of piano keys writes: "No women are employed in the piano
key department of our business, and none are employed by other

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manufacturers, to our knowledge. We suppose the reason is, that most of the
labor in this department is either quite severe or dirty, wet, and unpleasant.
Assorting and matching the ivory requires so long a time to learn, that we
cannot afford to hire any person for less than two years. Girls are generally
unwilling to engage to remain so long, especially if they are at an age when
their judgment and discretion make their services really valuable." A
Massachusetts manufacturer of piano forte, melodeon, and organ keys
writes: "I employ a lady bookkeeper, but my business in the manufacture of
keys for musical instruments is such that it requires men alone, although the
work is very light and clean."

291. Rules.

The materials for rules are ivory and wood. The prices of rules have fallen
during the last few years—so the profits are less. A rule manufacturer in
Vermont writes: "We employ women graduating rules by machinery and
stamping on the figures. We pay 7 cents per hour. Women are paid
proportionately while learning. Common sense and a slight knowledge of
arithmetic are the only qualifications needed. They work all the year, ten
hours a day. All are American. Women are quite as rapid as men, and, in
application, better." A manufacturer in Connecticut writes: "I employ but
one woman, and she takes the work home. It is paid for by the piece. There
are many parts suitable for women, but it is more profitable to employ men.
The great demand for female labor in the domestic employments in this
section of the country is becoming intolerable, on account of the general
desire to obtain employment in the factories." The machines are small and
easily worked, for making lines and figures on rules. The rivets of rules
might, I think, be inserted by women. I was told, men employed in working
at rule manufacture are paid $8, and some $9 a week. The ruler stands while
at work.

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PEARL WORKERS.

292. Pearl Workers.

At S.'s, we saw a man grinding the outer and rougher coat off of pearl
shells. It requires some strength, as it is done on a stone wheel moved by
steam, the shell being kept in its place by a wooden rod held on it. It is wet
and dirty work. The water is cold, too, even in winter, for warm water
would soon become cold on account of the rapid motion of the wheel; and it
would not do to heat the pearl, as it would cause it to split. The polishing
was done on a wheel covered with leather, and could as well be done by a
girl as a boy. S. had never known women to work in pearl, except to make
paper cutters, and then only in Germany. The inlaying of pearl is in some
places done by women. A worker in pearl writes me: "The pearl button
branch is separate from the pearl shell work. In the first, females are
employed; in the latter, they are not, as it is unhealthy and laborious. In
Birmingham, England, where pearl buttons are almost exclusively
manufactured, upward of two thousand hands are employed. Pearl buttons
are made in Newark and Philadelphia." A manufacturer of pearl buttons in
Philadelphia writes: "I employ women in finishing, and pay from $2 to $3 a
week. It requires from one to three weeks to learn. The prospect of the
business increasing is good. The work is regular, and the hours ten a day. I
employ women because they are cheaper." To polish pearl buttons is very
simple—merely placing the button in a pair of tongs, and holding it against
three revolving wheels successively. The carving of pearl is wrist work, and
S. thought women have not sufficient strength in their wrists to do it; but I
think many have.

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TORTOISE-SHELL WORKERS.

293. Tortoise-Shell Workers.

Shell is made into clock cases, cigar cases, card cases, writing desks, and
other such articles, but is most used for combs. In Brooklyn, a manufacturer
of shell combs told me they had several times thought of employing
women, Gutta percha and vulcanized india rubber have become, to some
extent, a substitute for tortoise shell. On tortoise-shell combs the light
carving might be done by women; the heavy cutting requires more strength.
The sawing out of the figures is suitable for women. The finishing could
also be done by them. To learn the finishing would not require a person of
ordinary talent more than a week, and either of the other processes probably
not more than six or eight weeks. Workers could earn from $6 to $7 a week,
if they could have constant employment. The business is very dependent on
fashion. P. & B. used to employ girls in rounding the teeth of shell side-
combs, and paid each $4; but gutta-percha combs have done away with
shell ones. A worker of shell combs told me he had employed girls, paying
some by the piece and some by the week. They earned from $3 to $6 per
week. It requires about six months to learn carving and sawing—polishing,
not so long. Care, judgment, and a good idea of form and proportion, are
necessary. The business is now very dull. The style of carving on combs is
very different from that worn a few years back. It is now of a heavier kind,
and the work not so suitable for women.

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GUM ELASTIC MANUFACTURE.

294. Gum Elastic Manufacture.

"In nearly all the manufacturing branches of this business, females are
employed. After the articles are moulded, females join them; also paint the
toys, pack the combs in boxes, &c. In most establishments they are
employed the whole year, while some only retain a small proportion during
the dull season, which is in the winter. All are paid by the piece, varying
from $4 to $7 per week. They learn very quickly, and are paid for what they
do as soon as they commence, although it takes six months or one year's
practice to equal the best workers. The manufacturing is almost exclusively
confined to the country, and, as a class, the women are in no way
exceptionable, many of them being considerably cultivated. There are
plenty found to learn the business, and it gives employment to several
thousand." In Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York,
Pennsylvania, and New Jersey, 1,825 males and 1,058 females were
employed, in the year ending June 1st, 1860, in making india rubber goods.
I talked with one of the most extensive gum elastic manufacturers in the
United States, for the purpose of gaining some idea of the number of female
operatives in that department, their wages, if the occupation is unhealthy,
&c. This manufacturer has realized millions from his business; and, after
repeated efforts to learn how his women were paid, I succeeded in learning
that those who work out of the house are paid by the piece, and earn only
from $2 to $3 a week, working from dawn until midnight. Some worked in
the establishment, going at 7.30 A. M., and working until 6 P. M., receiving
about the same wages. They were employed in making suspenders. More
women are employed in the shoe department than any other. The hard india
rubber goods are labelled and packed by women in some manufactories; but
most of the making is done by men. At a city in Western Massachusetts, ten
girls were employed by one man, at an average of $2.50 each per week, to
mend imperfections in india rubber goods. I went to Harlem, and was

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permitted with my attendant to go through the manufactory and see the
process of making up a variety of india rubber goods. Some of the girls are
paid by the piece, and some by the week. They earn from $4 to $6 a week.
It does not require a girl of good sense more than from one to four weeks to
learn. I inquired of one of the proprietors and three of the foremen, if they
thought it unhealthy. The proprietor said, not; but the foremen were not very
positive in their assertions. I inquired of a girl in the sewing room. She said
she found it so in the cementing room, and had secured work in the sewing
room on that account. She attributed it to the evaporation of the camphene,
and the flying of the powder, made of pulverized soapstone and flour. The
odor, no doubt, is very disagreeable at first to most workers. One foreman
said he thought it would not be well for a consumptive person to confine
him or herself to that kind of work. One of the proprietors said, if a nice,
genteel-looking girl comes along, they will take her as a learner, even if
they do not wish a learner, that they may have good hands when they need
them. They have a great many applications. They used to take learners, and
permit old hands to instruct them, paying them for the time spent in doing
so. They are most busy in the spring and fall, but have something to do all
the year. Those in the first cementing room were working at large tables,
and stood. They were paid fifteen cents for cementing the seams of a
gentleman's coat, and some at that work make $1 a day of ten hours' labor.
Most of the girls prefer to stand while at work. They were very neat, quiet,
and good looking. In the second room we saw women making rubber
cushions, small tubes, &c. One of the girls making tubes said she was paid
by the hundred, and could not earn $1 a day. All in the second and third
room sat. In the third room the ladies were finishing off coats, sewing in the
sleeves, binding, and putting on buttons. Most india rubber factories are in
New Jersey. There are none in the West or South.

295. Men's Clothing.

The Rubber Clothing Company at Beverly, Mass., "employ from seventy-
five to one hundred women. They report the work as being light, and
therefore requiring nimble fingers. Their girls are paid both by the piece and
week, and earn from $3 to $6 per week, usually working ten hours a day.

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One half are American. Women are paid as well as men in this branch. It
requires four weeks to learn. Prospect of future work is good. Activity and
intelligence are needed. The work is very easy, and is given at all seasons.
Girls are usually not so steady at work as men. Board, $2 per week." The
superintendent of the American Hard Rubber Company writes: "We employ
ten women in making hard india rubber goods. We prefer them on account
of their small fingers. It is piece work, and women are paid from $4 to $6
per week, ten hours a day. Our women could not do the work of men, who
have to be mechanics, having learned a trade. Men receive about thirty-
three cents more per day than women. The time required for men to learn
our business it is impossible to answer. Women can learn sufficient in four
weeks to earn seventy-five cents per day. Carefulness and nimble fingers
are necessary. The business is new, but the prospects for the future good as
could be counted upon in any ordinary business. The business is not
sufficiently extended to furnish a particular set of people depending upon it
with labor. Some of our women are quite intelligent and refined. There is a
good library connected with the factory, and on Sunday they have ready
access to church."

296. Shoes.

The application of india rubber to the making of boots and shoes originated
in the United States. B. & S. "employ seventy-five girls, who earn from $3
to $6 a week. They are employed all the year, and it is not unhealthy." The
business has been on the decrease for two years. The treasurer of the Boston
Shoe Co. informs me: "The company employ about seventy-five women,
who work by the piece. The employment is not unhealthy. Average wages
from seventy five cents to $1.25 per day, of eight or ten hours. Our women
earn full as much as men, in comparison with the work done. Three fourths
are American. A smart girl will learn in a couple of weeks to make from
fifty to seventy-five cents per day; in two or three months, she can earn full
wages. The prospect of future employment is fair. The fall of the year is the
most busy season. Good board, $2 per week."

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297. Toys.

The New York Rubber Co. write: "We employ women in making and
ornamenting toys. Little of the work is done in other countries. The girls
earn from $3 to $8 per week, but are paid by the piece. Men and women do
not perform the same kind of work. In a few weeks learners earn $3; in a
few months, $5 or $6. They have work at all seasons. The work is pleasant.
Board, $2."

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GUTTA PERCHA MANUFACTURE.

298. Gutta Percha Manufacture.

A manufacturer of gutta-percha goods told me that the firm to which he
belongs employ twenty-five girls. One of their girls earns $1 a day, making
handles. The others close the seams of coats, and other articles of dress,
with cement. Some work by the piece, and some by the week. When by the
week, they are paid $3.50 and $4; and those by the piece earn about the
same. He thinks, if it is unhealthy, it is because the sulphur used opens the
pores and renders the person liable to take cold. I visited a gutta-percha
comb manufactory. The girls receive $2 a week, while learning. They can
learn in a few days. They polish and pack the combs. They work ten hours a
day, and receive $4. Few of them get $4.50. The employer thinks there may
be more work in that line hereafter. A woman acquainted with machinery
could superintend the machine that cuts the teeth of the comb. Rounding the
teeth is done by men, but could be performed by women. I was told there is
a manufactory at Stratton, L. I., where seventy women are employed.

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HAIR WORKERS.

299. Artists.

The making of hair ornaments is a distinct branch of labor. Some very
beautiful and ingenious pieces of workmanship have been executed.
Bracelets, earrings, breastpins, and guards are the most common articles.
The work is nicely adapted to the nimble fingers of women, whether
engaged in it for pastime or profit. A foreign lady, that does ornamental hair
work, told me that it is a right profitable business to one that can do it well,
but American women have not patience to learn to do it in a superior
manner. A hair jeweller in Philadelphia told me he employs six girls—all
Americans, and he thinks they do better than foreigners. He pays a girl
seventy-five cents a week, for three or four weeks. By that time she has
learned enough to earn $3 or $4 a week. Formerly he required a girl to
spend two years learning, and paid her nothing during the time. He
mentioned one firm that required three years' apprenticeship. But the girls
often became discouraged, and went at something else. Now the business is
not so much of a secret. He has now and then paid as high as $12 a week,
for a hand that was very ingenious and successful. They pay high for their
designs. The gentleman had paid $50, the week previous, for a design. His
girls all work in the establishment, and spend about nine hours at their
work. It is done altogether by hand. The only disadvantage attending it is
the confinement that pertains to it, or any other employment of that kind.
An artist on Fifth street gives work out of the house. The average rate of
wages he pays is $4 a week. Hair artists, when employed by the week,
receive from $4 to $5. At S.'s, New York, they pay a good hand from $4 to
$5 a week, ten hours a day. A person of good abilities can learn most of the
patterns in three weeks. An ornamental hair worker told me she charges
fifty cents a lesson of an hour. A lady was taking lessons who had recently
married a jeweller, and was going to Louisiana to live. A good price can be
got for such work in the South, for Southerners have had all such work done

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in the North. A German, who made very pretty ornamental hair work in
New York, told me he charges from $25 to $50 for teaching the art—those
that wish to learn in a short time, and so require much of his attention, pay
$100. It can be very well learned in six months. He pays $10 a week to
good hands. The work is the same at all seasons. Strong eyes, nimble
fingers, and a clear head are the essentials for a learner.

300. Dressers.

The business of a barber was performed by females among the Romans,
about the time of the Christian era. I have read that there are now women
barbers in Paris, Normandy, England, and Western Africa. In the reign of
Louis XIV. it was not unusual for ladies of rank and wealth to dress the
whiskers of their favorite friends. Both men and women are engaged in the
United States in the business of dressing ladies' hair. We think women most
suitable for it, and should be patronized to the exclusion of men. The
business requires practice and taste. Some ladies of wealth have their
dressing maids to learn the art and perform that office of the toilet. Most
hair dressers charge 50 cents to $1.50 for dressing the hair. The price is
regulated by the style in which it is done and the reputation of the dresser.
The demands for a hair dresser are sometimes such, in a fashionable season,
that a lady must have her hair dressed as early as noon, to wear to the opera
at 8, or to a party at 10 P. M. Mrs. W., New York, charges 50 cents for
dressing hair, 75 for shampooing and dressing, and $1 if she sends out. She
never sends any one out to dress hair where she is not acquainted. She
thinks there are about 200 hair dressers in New York. At an establishment in
Broadway they give instruction in hair dressing—price, $1 a lesson. A
person of ordinary abilities can learn to dress hair plainly in three or four
lessons. C. says he thinks more women could find employment as hair
dressers in New York; but I think, from the number of signs I saw, no
demand can exist. He thinks it strange that they do not make engagements
by the week, as they do in the cities of the old countries, where there are
200 or 300 in every large city that go out daily to the houses of their
customers. I have since learned that there are some in New York that do.
Mrs. G. goes out by the week, and receives $3 per week. She makes such

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engagements for the morning only, as she is likely to be called in the
afternoon to prepare ladies for parties. From the middle of June until
September she is at Saratoga. C. had a woman four years learning the styles
of dressing and making up hair. The third year he paid her $4 a week, and
the fourth year $5 a week. He says it requires so long to learn it that women
generally get discouraged and go at something else. Women employed by
the week to dress hair receive from $4 to $5. A lady told me she charges 50
cents a lesson, and a person can learn in from fourteen to twenty lessons.
Two years' time is generally given to learn hair work in all its branches,
weaving, mounting, &c. It takes time and capital to establish a business for
one's self, as hair is a costly article. I saw one lady who teaches hair
dressing for $10. A young woman told me it requires two weeks of constant
practice to become a hair dresser. Nearly everything at it is done in winter.
Practice makes perfect. The best plan is to get regular customers, and go to
their houses every day, including Sunday, for which it is usual to charge
from $1.50 a week up, for one head. She charges 50 cents a lesson. Some
chambermaids at hotels take a few lessons, to enable them to dress hair
plainly. For shampooing, most of which is done in summer, she charges 50
cents; for braiding front hair, 50 cents; and with the back hair, 75 cents.
Miss S. told me many female hair dressers board with the family of the
employer, because of being up late at night, and receive their board and $10
a month and up. For weaving hair her mother pays 6 cents per yard; for the
finer kind, 12 cents per yard. Her mother earns from $1.75 to $2 per day. A
person that can weave and make front pieces can get work at any time.
There are only three months dull time in a city—June, July, and August.
Some ladies pay a hair dresser $10 a month for dressing the hair every day
but Sunday, when a separate and higher charge is made. For dressing a
bride entirely, $5 is charged. One needs taste and ability to please; at any
rate, one must be civil and obliging. Fashionable watering places present
the best openings. Saratoga and Newport present favorable ones, at the first
of which there is but one permanent hair dresser. D., hair dresser and wig
maker, requires learners to be bound for four years. The first year he gives a
girl her board, lodging, washing, and $4 a month. The next year he gives the
same, with an increase of $1 a month; and so continues that increase each
succeeding year until the apprenticeship expires. He gives to journeywomen
their dinner, supper, and $4 a week. The business is not confined to regular

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hours, on account of hair dressing, which is done mostly in the evening. He
charges 50 cents for dressing a lady's hair at his rooms, and $1 at her house.
A Frenchman, under Fifth Avenue Hotel, pays $5 a week to a girl who
receives the pay of his customers. She is there at 8, and can leave at dark.
He charges 75 cents a head at the saloon, and at the ladies' residences the
same. He has rooms fitted up, and has many customers from the hotel. He
employs three girls, paying them one half of what they earn. He keeps but
one there constantly. The other two live near, and when he needs their
services he sends for them. He is going to teach hair dressing, and charge $1
a lesson; forty or fifty (?) lessons are usually taken, according to the extent
it is learned. Mrs. B. told me men teach ladies wig making, but ladies give
instruction mostly in hair dressing to those of their own sex. It is usual to
pay learners something after a few months' or a year's practice. Those that
work for others get most to do in winter. Those that have establishments of
their own can of course work all the time. Most employers pay by the week.
Mrs. Dall has the following sentence in her "Woman's Right to Labor:" "I
think there is room in Boston for an establishment from which a woman
could come to a sickroom, to shave the heated head or cut the beard of the
dying; a place where women's and children's wants could be attended to,
without necessary contact with men."

301. Dyers.

B. will want some nice women to dye ladies' hair. Now he has it done by
men. He wants but one at first—one who has worked with hair—for
instance, a lady's maid would be most suitable. She must not be afraid to
color her hands, or to work. When not working at that, she will spend her
time making wigs. He will teach her how to do both, and, if she proves
herself competent, he will give her fair wages. For two or three weeks he
will board her and pay all her expenses. Then he will pay her $5 a week. He
will take another when needed, and so increase the number as he has
occasion. He employs some women to put up hair dye and perfumery, and
pays $3 a week.

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302. Growers.

Dr. Gardner says: "At Caen, in France, there is a market, whither young
girls resort, and stand hour after hour, with their flowing hair, rich and
glossy, deriving additional lustre from the contrast with their naked
shoulders. This is the resort of the merchant barbers, some of whom come
even from England. The merchants pass along among them, examine the
color, texture, evenness, and other qualities of the beautiful fleece, haggle
for a sou, and finally buy. The hair then, after being cut as closely as
possible to the head, is weighed and paid for, and the girl goes home to let
another suit grow out for shearing time."

303. Manufacturers.

The woman at S.'s says they have constant application to receive hands, and
have to turn a great many away. They have trouble to get good workers. The
girls will not take time to learn to do their work perfectly. They ought to
spend some years learning. At C.'s, they employ a number of women in
making wigs, scalps, and toupees, who can earn from $4 to $5 a week. It
requires six months to learn that branch. At another place I was told it
requires but a few weeks to learn to make wigs only. Workers at it earn
from $3 to $5. This branch of work is profitable. Mrs. R. told me that those
who make wigs can be at work all the year, but hair dressing is mostly
confined to seasons. In different stores, the wages of employées vary. It is
well for a person to learn all the branches, if she has time, so that if one fails
her, she can take up another. Her work is mostly done in the country—no
doubt because she can get it done more cheaply. Weaving hair pays best. It
is paid for by the yard, and generally done at the home of the worker. If
done in the house, it is most likely to be paid for by the week, and ten—the
usual number of working hours—spent at it. American women form a
majority in the business. It is a good business, for a small capital, when
living near the importers. It is extending West and South. A hair
manufacturer in Rochester writes: "The occupation is permanent, and my
employées have work at all seasons. There is a demand in many places for
workers in this line." A hair manufacturer in Newburyport, Massachusetts,

Page 365

who has three women braiding hair for jewelry, and making wigs, pays by
the day, of ten hours. They receive from $3 to $8 per week, and work the
same at all seasons.

304. Merchants.

Most of the hair made up in this country is bought in France and Italy. The
price paid for each head of hair ranges from one to five francs, according to
its weight and beauty. From one of the cyclopædias we learn, that 200,000
pounds of women's hair is annually sold in France; that the price paid for it
is usually six cents an ounce." "Whether dark or light, the hair purchased by
the dealer is so closely scrutinized, that he can discriminate between the
German and French article by the smell alone; nay, he even claims the
power, 'when his nose is in,' of distinguishing accurately between the
English, the Welsh, the Irish, and the Scotch commodities."

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WILLOW WARE.

305. Willow Ware.

Great quantities of willow ware have been imported from France, but of late
years some attention has been paid to the growing of it near Philadelphia.
Our climate is said to be well adapted to its growth, and the willow raised to
be of a superior quality. Willow grows in damp places. Most basket makers
buy the willow, and split it themselves. All the most tasteful and elegant
baskets used in this country are imported from France. Basket making is
one of the principal employments engaged in by the blind. It requires some
strength, but more skill and practice. A basket maker's tools can be bought
for $5, and last a lifetime. On looking for women basket makers in
Philadelphia, we found a German widow, who could not make herself
understood in English, but my companion conversed with her in German,
and learned that she had supported herself and son for six years, by making
baskets for the trade. She buys the willow ready for use at seven cents a
pound. She sells small round baskets, with covers and handles, at $2.25 a
dozen. She looked very poor, but clean, and had evidently a room to sleep
in besides the one we saw, where she works and cooks. A German woman,
in New York, making small fancy baskets on blocks, told me she could earn
from fifty cents to $1 per day. Her husband dyes the willow. A German
woman asked me $1.50 for a basket she had paid fifty cents for making—at
that rate her profits were considerable. I met a German boy with baskets,
who said he could make from seventy-five cents to $1 a day by his work.
His father, mother, and sisters also work at the trade. I saw a woman who
merely colors willow. She could make a comfortable living at it, if she
could give all her time to it; but she cannot, as she has two small children,
and must give part of her time to them. In Williamsburg, I had a long talk
with a basket maker. He says it is best for an apprentice to learn basket
making of a practical worker who has not many hands, and who will give
instruction himself. He can give the more time to his learners. He spent

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seven years learning the trade in England. It requires knowledge of form to
make the baskets of a handsome shape. He showed me a book giving
directions how to proportion baskets. He thinks a right smart person might
learn the business in two years, when they could earn from $10 to $15 a
week. The basket makers have a society in New York that discourages the
work of women in that line, by not allowing its members to sell to any store
for which a woman works. The excuse is, it throws men out of work. Yet
the man told me that there are probably not more than two hundred basket
makers in the United States, and that it is a good business. He has more
work than he can do. (Oh, what injustice to woman!) The Dutch, he says,
make baskets at a lower price than the members of the society, and
consequently they are discountenanced by the members. Inexperienced or
careless workers are apt to cut their hands with the willow while at work. A
woman who sells baskets told me that basket making is a poor business
now. A man that worked for her during the summer said that, working from
early in the morning till late at night, he could not make more than $4.50 a
week, and if his wife had not worked out, they could not have made a
living. She says the duty on willow is high, and transporters ask any price
they please, as it occupies considerable room, and does not pay very well as
freight. When American supplies are brought in, it is cheaper. The women
that supply her do the lighter parts of the work; and their husbands, the
heavier. A willow ware manufacturer in Waterbury, Vermont, writes: "The
work is light and healthy. It is paid for by the piece. Women are paid less,
because they are not so strong, and can live cheaper. It requires about one
year to learn the business. Learners are paid by the week, about $2.
Ingenuity and some taste are needed for a basket maker. A great many
women might advantageously learn the trade, if they would. They can work
at it all the year. We should like to employ a few girls to learn the trade and
make baskets, but have been unable to do so yet, as it is very difficult
finding help enough to do housework in this vicinity." A German, who
learned his trade with the basket maker of his Majesty, in Dresden, replies
to a circular asking information on willow work: "Women are employed at
this trade at several places in Germany. They are paid by the piece. In this
country, if they are able to finish the work as well as men, they are usually
paid the same wages. Coarse work can be learned in much less time than
fine. It is in some places the custom to have five persons to make a basket,

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each doing a separate part. I think the prospects for work good. Women can
make the finer work quicker than men, but men succeed best in making
coarse work."

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WOOD WORK.

306. Carvers.

The word "carver" is rather extensive in its application, being applied alike
to one who cuts stone, wood, or metal. Carvers of stone and metal we treat
of elsewhere. The art of carving is quite ancient. There are five kinds of
wood carving: house, ship, toy, furniture, and pattern making; to these we
may add the cutting of wooden letters for ornamental signs. Pattern making
is the reverse of architectural carving: the first being in bas relief; the other,
alto. Architectural carving is mostly done in pine, occasionally in oak. Ship
carvers cut figure heads for vessels; some of this carving is done in oak,
some in pine. For some kinds of carving the design is drawn on paper and
cut out; then it is placed on the block, which is prepared of a proper
thickness, and the outline drawn with a pencil. The portions of wood
outside the design are then cut off with carving implements. The plan of
marking the wood is not practised by all carvers. It may be that it is used for
beginners only. Ingenuity in planning and skilful drawing are desirable
qualifications for a carver. The tools used by carvers are very simple, being
merely a hammer, and gouges of different sizes. When the wood is carved,
it is smoothed with sand paper, then gilded or painted and varnished.
During an apprenticeship, the usual sum paid a boy is $2.50 a week the first
year, and more afterward. A journeyman can usually earn $1.50 or $1.75 a
day of ten hours. It requires three years to learn the trade. "In wood
sculpture, all that belongs to its simple ornament might receive a special
grace from the inspiration of women." We have seen architectural and ship
carving done by women; and it is our belief that almost any and every kind
of carving could be done by them, if the wood were properly prepared, and
they were carefully instructed. Some kinds of carving require considerable
muscular strength. An architectural carver writes: "Our employment is
healthy. Part of our business is suitable for women, but there is not enough
in our establishment to keep one constantly employed." A carver told me

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that furniture carving is sometimes done by women. Though it is done in
harder wood than most other kinds, it does not involve the lifting of heavy
blocks, like architectural carving. The widow of a ship carver carries on the
business in New York. Her son told me that eight persons could do all the
work necessary for that city. There are a few ship carvers in Boston and
Philadelphia, but none in the South or West. (Would not New Orleans
present a good opening?) A. told me, a boy in learning ship carving is
apprenticed for five or six years. He receives $1.50 a week for the first year,
then $2, and after that $2.50, but no more. A carver told me that he had an
Englishman working for him, that showed him some work done by his
daughter, which was superior. He knows the wives of some carvers who
finish the work of their husbands by rubbing it with sand paper. "Louisa
Raldan, of Seville, was known as an excellent sculptor in wood." "Anna
Maria Schurmann, of Sweden, carved busts in wood." "Anna Tessala, an
artist of the Dutch school, was eminent as a skilful carver in wood."
"Properzia di Rossi, an Italian sculptress, carved on a peachstone the
crucifixion of our Saviour." Many toys are made in Germany by women
and children. They are purchased very cheaply, we know, from their low
prices in this country. Mrs. Dall says: "I would direct the attention of young
women to the Swiss carving of paper knives, bread plates, salad spoons,
ornamental figures, jewel boxes, and so on. On account of the care required
in the transportation, these articles bring large prices; and I feel quite sure
that many an idle girl might win a pleasant fame through such trifles."
Articles might be cut of wood, as mementos of some great event or pleasant
association. The small wooden cages, in which we see canaries for sale,
were made by women in Germany. There labor is cheaper, and they
probably receive only two or three cents for a cage, while in this country
they could not be made for less than a shilling. I saw some pretty wooden
toys, made in Switzerland by the shepherds while watching their flocks, and
some which were made by women. It is a favorite pastime with them in the
evening, when the family is gathered around the hearthstone. The small
carved boards, used for the support of music in pianos, are carved by a
delicate saw, moving perpendicularly and driven by steam. The carver has
the pattern marked on the board, and moves it under the saw, as the
workman does the back of shell combs. One species of carving common in
Europe is that of saints and virgins for small churches.

Page 371

307. Kindling Wood.

Some little boys putting kindling wood into bundles told me they are paid
fifteen cents a hundred bundles, and can do from two hundred and fifty to
three hundred in a day of ten hours. Most of them take the strings home at
night and tie them, to save time in the day. Girls could do it, but they would
be liable to accident from the carelessness of those at work.

308. Pattern Makers.

The wife of a pattern maker told me it requires ingenuity, patience, and a
knowledge of drawing to become a pattern maker. C. thought general
pattern making would not do for a woman, as it would require planing,
cutting, and turning wood. He said some of the finer parts of pattern
making, as forming models on a small scale for the patent office, could be
done by a woman who is qualified. It would require a knowledge of
arithmetical proportions, ability to turn a lathe properly, and aptness at
catching the ideas of others. A gentleman who makes models for the patent
office, patterns for machinery, steam and gas fittings, &c., writes: "The
varnishing might be done by women, but in most shops there would not be
enough to keep one at work all the time." S. told me that a part of the work
of pattern making could be done by women, but it would be advisable they
should have a separate apartment in founderies. The variety of ornamental
iron work is so great that it affords scope for inventive talent. We suppose
the business of pattern making is not more laborious and is very similar to
block cutting. If women were prepared for some branches of this business,
we doubt not it would prove remunerative and furnish steady employment.
A pattern maker writes from Hartford: "We do our own draughting, but
there is considerable done independent of a shop. For such work we pay $2
a day. A knowledge of geometry and mathematics is a prerequisite."

309. Rattan Splitters.

Formerly, rattan was thrown from the ships that landed in New York, as
something useless; now it sells at from four to nine cents a pound. The

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centre of the rattan is used for hoop skirts. The outside is split off by a
strange-looking machine. The strips are then shaved thin by another
machine, for making chair seats and ornamenting buggies. They are
bleached in a close room with ignited sulphur. The refuse is used in some
way in the manufacture of gas—also for making coarse mats and filling
beds. At N.'s factory, I saw girls shaving rattan. The work was dusty—one
sat, but the others stood. The girls had merely to attend to the strips as they
ran through small machines moved by steam. Each girl received fifty cents
a day of ten hours, for her services. In Fitchburg, Mass., fifty girls are so
employed.

310. Segar Boxes.

I called in a segar-box factory where the man had four boys at work. The
trade requires care, and some ability to calculate proportions. The work
consists in driving small nails, gluing on tape, planing the edges, and
similar labor. Women could do it, and I expect do in Germany. If boys from
ten to fifteen years of age can, why cannot girls? After two months, a boy
earns something. Two of the boys had been working at the trade two years,
and were earning each $3 a week. The wood is cedar, and so easily
managed.

311. Turners.

I saw the process of wood turning. The flying of the chips I thought
disagreeable. The trade can be learned in three years very well. A boy
learning is paid $2.50 a week, the first year; the next year, $3; the next,
increased fifty cents more, and so on. A good hand can earn from $1.75 to
$2 a day. Some women do the turning of small wooden articles in France,
and quite a number are employed in bone and horn turning in the old
country, which is not so hard. Turning is more nearly perfect than most
mechanical operations, and consequently is employed in all those branches
susceptible of its use. In most work of this nature the article operated on is
stationary, and the machinery in motion; but in turning, the article is kept in
motion, the tool merely pressed upon it by the hand. "There is said to be but

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little difference in the management of turning different substances. The
principal thing to be attended to is to adapt the velocity of the motion to the
nature of the material." Rosa Bonheur, when a girl, was apprenticed to a
dress maker, whose husband was a turner. His lathe stood in an adjoining
room. Rosa delighted to slip away from her work and employ herself at the
turner's lathe. The making of bone and wooden handles for canes and
umbrellas could be done by women. Removing the surface of the bone is
dirty work, and requires some strength. The polishing could be done by a
girl. The bones are bought at glue factories, slaughter houses, &c. In New
York, for a small new bone, two and a half cents is paid; for a large one,
five cents.

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AGENTS.

312. Express and other Conveyances.

We saw a description, a short time ago, by some traveller in Scotland, of
ladies acting in the capacity of railroad officials; that is, one sold tickets,
another collected them, and a third was telegraphing at a station. I have
been told that some of the ticket agents in Boston are women. Women are
also employed at some of the railway stations in France and Germany, not
only to sell tickets, but to guard the stations and crossings. I have heard that
on those roads where women are switch tenders no accident has ever
occurred. "In Paris, omnibus conductors submit their way bills at the
transfer offices to women for inspection and ratification. Women book you
for a seat in the diligence. Women let donkeys for rides at Montmorency,
and saddle them too." The St. Louis Republican mentions that there is one
feature about the steamer Illinois Belle, of peculiar attractiveness—a lady
clerk. "Look at her bills of lading, and 'Mary J. Patterson, Clerk,' will be
seen traced in a delicate and very neat style of chirography. A lady clerk on
a Western steamer! It speaks strongly of our moral progress."

313. General Agents.

"The walks of business become more manifold and extended as the luxuries
of civilization and the skill of human inventions become more multiplied
and more widely displayed. Every description of commercial, mechanical,
and executive business excited and created by the new wants and new
imaginations of advancing society, will call for the creation and extension
of new agencies to accomplish the labor which they must demand. Thus the
variety and number of business agencies of every kind must spread out in a
constant increase." We think there is great imposition practised by some
people who secure lady agents, and we would advise ladies who can
undertake an agency to learn something of the parties who would employ,

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and the character of the article, before they engage in any undertaking of
the kind. A conscientious agent is likely to have her interests suffer by a
want of honor in those whom she represents. With a liberal discount on the
retail price of most goods, agents might be enabled to make a handsome
return for their services. I saw a man that manufactures indelible ink, and
employs agents to sell it and stencil plates. He allows them half they
receive. One lady in Boston, he said, made $20 one day. I think it probable
it was in a large school. Ladies, he says, will not stay long at it, because it
tires them very much to go up stairs a great deal. An agent should be one
that can talk well and has tact and judgment. She should select those parts
of a city where she will be most likely to meet with success. If her article is
something for ladies' use, let her go where the best dwellings are. If it is
something for universal use, if she selects but part of a city, the largest
quantity will probably be sold in those parts most densely populated. A
manufacturer of fancy soaps and perfumery told me he has employed ladies
as agents to go around selling those articles. Some have cleared $2 a day.
He allows one hundred percentage. C., of Boston, manufacturer of needle
threaders, wick pullers, and pencil sharpeners, offers a liberal discount to
agents; but we presume it would require some Yankee tact to make the sales
amount to much. He states that some of their agents make from $200 to
$300 a month. A stencil cutter in New Haven writes: "I have made tools for
ladies to do the work of making embroidery stencils. It is necessary to
travel to sell them. One lady may make the work at home, and another sell
it. One young man, whom I furnished with tools, told me that he sold $14
worth of plates in five hours." Dr. B. employs twenty ladies making
shoulder braces, and pays them from $3 to $4 a week. The sewing is done
by hand. He allows lady agents to have the braces at $1 a pair, which can be
retailed at $2 a pair. Boarding agencies have become common in some of
the large cities. Some agents charge the keepers of boarding houses a
percentage for every boarder sent them, but do not charge the applicant. In
some offices a person records his name and pays $2, for which he has the
privileges of the office one year. The boarding-house keeper pays a
percentage to the agent in proportion to the rate of board, without regard to
the length of time the boarders remain. One agency charges $2 for
registering a name, and fifty cents for each boarder it secures. Some agents
in New York have purchased articles of every kind on commission for

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Southerners, receiving a commission from both parties. Southern ladies
have always preferred New York goods, but we suppose they will now wish
to patronize their own people.

314. Literary, Book, and Newspaper Agents.

By literary agents we mean those that are willing to take the compositions
of others, review, correct, prune, polish, mend, and present them for
publication. We suppose there are not a great many ladies, in our country, of
sufficient experience in this way to be prepared for the business, and
probably a smaller number that would wish to undertake it. Yet, we think, to
a competent and reliable lady, it might yield a handsome profit. We know
there are a few gentlemen so engaged. Proof readers are sometimes
employed by authors for this purpose, or some literary friend of ability does
it as an accommodation. Ladies have been agents more for magazines than
standard works. Indeed, only new books claim the privilege of having their
merits set forth by agents. In towns and cities, ladies could act as agents
without any difficulty. The business, of course, requires one to be on her
feet a great deal. In sparsely settled portions of the country, it could not be
so easily done. Yet we were told in New York of an educated lady that
wished to earn a livelihood, and, not seeing any other way open, she
became a book agent. She got a horse and buggy, and rode through the
country, and was very successful. She met with a young lady who was very
anxious to join her. They made a great deal of money, and wrote a book of
their travels. There are said to be many book and paper agents in New York
city—both men and women—and they are paid the same percentage. The
time of work is confined to daylight. If newspaper advertisements for book
agents can be relied on, we suppose the business would pay well. We can
scarcely glance over the columns of a newspaper without finding a call for
agents to present the merits of some new work, with the promise that, if
active and diligent, the individual will clear from $30 to $100 per month. It
requires judgment, taste, and a knowledge of what is popular in the book
market. I was told by the editor of a ladies' magazine, that he pays his
agents fifty cents on the dollar, and would be glad to secure the services of
more lady agents. He stated that one of his lady agents in Brooklyn

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obtained in two weeks twenty subscribers, so making $12.50. Some sell
books on subscription, but if the books are printed, the surest and most
speedy way is to deliver the book and receive the money, when the
individual decides to buy. A lady who earns her living as a book and
newspaper agent, told me that she gets a percentage for the agency of books
and papers. She has been an agent eight years in New York. Her health is
poor, and she thinks it is from being out in all kinds of weather. She does
not go to every house, but calls on one friend, who recommends her to
another—so that she has as many to visit as she can. She says the
qualifications needed are health, tact, judgment, courage, pleasing address,
perseverance, with faith in the work, and in God. Ladies are more likely to
be well received than men, but cannot walk as much. She prefers the agency
of books, because she then gets the money, gives the book, and that is the
last of it. But there is a responsibility attending the agency of papers. The
editor may require pre-payment for his magazine. If he is not an honorable
man, he may discontinue his magazine during the year, and not refund what
is due to his subscribers. The agent is then blamed, as well as the editor,
when it may be totally out of her power to remedy the matter, or to have
prevented it. A lady news agent, that has a good location and a small
circulating library, told me she has occupied the place for several years, and
so has regular customers. She does it to aid her husband in supporting and
educating their children, but thinks an individual could earn for self alone a
comfortable living by keeping a news depot. In the large cities of the North
are newspaper agents (men) who solicit advertisements, for which they
receive a commission from editors. There is a Miss S. in New York, who
makes a very good living by obtaining advertisements for the principal city
papers. She goes to stores and offices, and solicits advertisements of
business men, for which she receives a percentage from the conductors of
the papers.

315. Mercantile Agents.

At the office of a mercantile agency on Broadway, New York, one hundred
young men are employed in writing. Why could not women do it? An agent
who travels for C.'s paper-hanging manufactory, exhibiting specimens and

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getting orders, and has a commission also from another house for another
kind of business, makes $4,000 a year. Ladies were employed writing for
one mercantile agency in Boston one winter.

316. Pens.

The inventor of Prince's Protean pen thinks a lady would do well to act as
agent for the sale of his pens. A man who was agent made $3,000 a year, but
he could not stand such exertion over a year. His pen is so constructed as to
furnish a flow of ink for ten consecutive hours. It is very convenient in
travelling, on account of the ink being in the case. Physicians would find it
very convenient. An agent would receive a very good allowance; for
instance, a $5 pen she would receive for $3; one style of $4 pen for $2.50,
and another style for $2.25. Mr. Snow, of Hartford, an importer of steel
pens, offers to pay $2 a day to all agents who sell five gross of pens per day,
at the list of prices furnished, and at the same rate for any larger quantity.

317. Sewing Machines.

H., manufacturer of low-priced sewing machines in Newburyport,
Massachusetts, desires to secure some local and travelling agents. In his
circular he says: "In order to ascertain who would prove an efficient and
reliable agent, we have concluded that each applicant shall sell thirty days
on commission; and after that time, if he proves as before stated, and
prefers it to a commission, we will pay him a salary of from $30 to $80 a
month, according to capabilities, and travelling expenses. The commission
allowed will be thirty-three and one third per cent, on the machines sold."
We know nothing of the merits or demerits of the machine, but give it as a
criterion by which to judge what sewing-machine agents may expect in the
way of remuneration. The manufacturer of the universal hemmer, which can
be attached to any sewing machine, retails them at $2.50, but to agents a
deduction is made of seventy-five cents. (It probably costs ten cents apiece
to make them.) They require agents to buy what they wish to sell. It being a
cash business, they have few lady agents. Their agents confine themselves
to towns, on account of the time that would be consumed in travelling

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through the country. At a manufactory of children's spring horses, I saw a
lady employed to sell the horses and make saddles for them. Some she
stitched by hand, and some quilted and stitched by machine. She got $6 a
week.

318. School Agents.

A lady properly qualified might, we think, conduct a school agency. As
there are few school agencies in New York, we suppose it must be a
business that pays. The prejudice that will probably be created by the
difficulties in our country, will no doubt open the way for the preparation
and employment of slave State ladies as teachers in their own States, and
consequently one or more agencies in the South will be needed. The terms
of one of the best agencies we know of, are as follows: "To principals who
have their schools registered for the purpose of obtaining scholars by
making known the terms, locality, and advantages of their schools, a fee of
$5 is charged; and for each yearly renewal, $2; and for the introduction of
each pupil into a registered school, where the board and tuition does not
amount to $120 per annum, the fee is $5. When over that amount and under
$160, $7, &c. For the registration of a teacher, in advance, $2. When the
situation is obtained, and the remuneration is under $1,000, three per cent.
If $1,000 and over, five per cent. When desired to examine and personally
assume the responsibility of selecting teachers for important positions, an
additional fee of from $3 to $5 will be charged."

319. Telegraph Instruments.

A manufacturer of telegraphic instruments in Boston writes: "We do not
employ women in the mechanical part of our business, but we employ them
as agents to sell our instruments for medical use. They fit themselves as
lecturers by studying the science, and travel about lecturing, giving
instruction, selling machines, &c. A very handsome income is derived
therefrom."

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320. Washing Machines.

At a washing machine establishment, I was told they make a deduction of
twenty per cent. to agents who sell for them; but to agents who sell for
themselves and buy six or more, they make a deduction of thirty per cent.

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MANUFACTURERS AND COLORERS OF LADIES'
APPAREL.

321. Artificial Flowers.

As in everything else, the price for making artificial flowers is very much
regulated by the quality and taste displayed. Many flowers made in the
United States are equal in beauty and delicacy of finish to genuine Paris
flowers, but they are mostly made by French women, and so are in reality
French flowers. In France, the preparation of the materials used in the
manufacture, forms several distinct branches of trade, and the quality of the
flowers depends in a great measure upon the care used in the getting up of
these materials. The modes of coloring flowers are exceedingly various.
The materials used in the United States are mostly imported from Paris.
Some stores in New York are confined to the sale of materials for artificial
florists. There are said to be between sixty and seventy flower
manufacturers in New York, and about a dozen in Philadelphia. I have been
told there are probably 10,000 women and children employed in making
flowers in New York: I know there is great competition in the business. The
work is mostly done by women and children, who receive as wages from $1
to $6 per week. It requires care and patience, united with good taste and
much experience, to succeed in this pretty art. There are said to be about
twenty processes in the making of artificial flowers. The employment is one
easily affected, consequently fluctuating. The New York manufacturers
have sold large quantities of American flowers to Southern merchants, but
have had no orders lately. In New York, flower peps are made by men and
boys. A man at the work said it requires some time to learn to do all the
parts. Boys, he said, do some parts that girls cannot well do; but from my
observation, girls and women could as well do it all as workers of the other
sex. One maker of flower peps told me that at one time he employed girls,
but found they had not strength enough to cut the wires. To cut the wires
might be hard, but they could get accustomed to it; at any rate, they could

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dip the pistils and stamens into the coloring matter and place them in the
frames to dry. H. told me he employs about 600 women and 400 men in his
business, that of making flowers and dressing ornamental feathers. The
women earn from $4 to $12 a week; the average is from $6 to $7. They only
work eight hours in winter. There are several distinct branches, and it
requires longer to learn some than others. The washing and dyeing of
feathers is done by men, the curling and dressing by women. A few of his
women are French. He thinks it a business that must increase as the country
grows older. T. imports all his flowers, but employs one girl to mount them,
that is, make them into clusters, wreaths, &c. Not more than one in eight or
ten of those employed in the city in making artificial flowers devotes
herself to mounting them. It requires excellent taste and some ingenuity. He
pays by the week, from $8 to $10. I called on a German lady who makes
artificial flowers of paper and coarse muslin. She arranges them in wreaths,
and sells them to decorate small stores, particularly German book stores.
She and her daughter make a comfortable living at it. It requires long
practice in the artificial flower business to earn good wages, and very good
wages are earned at only a small number of establishments. The trickery of
mean people in every occupation, it is desirable to avoid. In this business
much is said to be practised. One of the unprincipled acts referred to is this:
Learners are told they must spend six months acquiring the trade, and
during that time will receive nothing, but after that get fair wages. One
branch is learned in a week or ten days, but the apprentices remain,
according to agreement, six months doing the same kind of work, when
they are dismissed on the plea there is no work to give them, and new
apprentices are taken. Some will keep their apprentices at but one branch of
work for a year or two, so reaping the benefit of their work, without giving
the instruction they promise. Girls who have served several years at
artificial flower making can seldom earn over $3.50 or $4 a week. G. & K.,
one of the oldest and most extensive firms in New York, prefer to take girls
from thirteen to fifteen years of age. Older girls are not satisfied with such
wages as learners receive. While learning, for the first month, they are paid
$2; after that, by the week, according to what they can do. They teach their
girls all the different parts, and they make the finest French flowers. They
give their girls work all the year, and they earn from $1 to $6 a week. In
summer, they work ten hours; in winter, nine and a half. In this, as in every

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business, the best hands are most sure to obtain employment. Mrs. P. thinks
only little girls should learn it, as it takes a great while to acquire
proficiency. She and her partner pay fifty cents a week for two months to a
learner, then $1 a week for a time, and then increase according to what is
done. They usually give employment all the year. They pay altogether by
the week, wages running from $2 to $5. At another manufactory, I found the
arrangements the same, the girls working nine and a half hours in winter,
and ten hours in summer. At another place I was told that it was best for a
learner to begin at ten years of age. By the time she is eighteen, she will be
able to make $4 or $5 a week. In some of the first-class houses for the sale
of fine French flowers, a few superior hands may earn $6 and $7 per week;
but for common flowers, particularly in the cheap establishments, the prices
paid are very low. It is said to be common among some manufacturers of
flowers to mix in a few imported ones with their own, and sell them all as
foreign flowers. At another place, I found the same arrangement, fifty cents
a week for a learner; $4 a week is the price paid for a very good hand. At an
importer and manufacturer of flower materials, I was told their season
commences about the first of February. It requires but two or three weeks'
practice to earn something—then learners are paid by the piece. Their girls
make centres. They manufacture stamps and veins. At a clean-looking
place, where the flowers were of a superior quality, I was told their girls
earn from $2 to $7. At a Frenchman's, I was told, in two months a smart girl
could begin to make fine French flowers. He pays nothing for two months;
after that, seventy-five cents a week, and increases that as the worker
acquires speed and proficiency. A good worker, he said, can earn $9 (?) a
week. His girls work nine hours a day. They make all parts and different
kinds of flowers. Some girls never learn to make flowers. At another place,
the girls, I was told, are paid nothing for three months, but at the end of that
time are paid $5. They learn all the branches. Workers are paid by the piece,
earning from seventy-five cents to $6 a week. It requires taste and a
peculiar aptitude.

322. Belts.

Page 384

B. & H. have ladies' and children's belts made, dolls dressed, fans trimmed,
&c. Their business is wholesale. They manufacture for houses here that sell
to the Southern trade. They have employed at some seasons from twenty-
five to fifty girls. The belt trade is merely making the goods into belts. A
person that can sew neatly can learn belt making in a day. The girls earn
from $3 to $4 per week, and are paid by the piece. The belt room is
superintended by a man. The busiest time for belt making and for trimming
in the wholesale business, is in July and August, January, February and
March. Spring work begins in January and ends the first of June, and fall
work the first of August and ends the first of December. Their hands have
work most of the year. They have a variety of work done; so if there is not
enough of one kind for their hands, they put them to doing something else.
They pay by the gross. The sewing must be done by hand. The business is
confined mostly to New York. When business is good, the foreman will
allow those he knows to take work home, and get their mothers and sisters
to help them. The factory is in Newark. It is difficult to get girls to go there
from New York.

323. Bonnet Ruches.

At some factories, ruches are made entirely by machinery. They are not as
well nor as neatly put together, and do not sell as high as those made by
hand. It does not require long for a girl with any brains to learn, but she
should commence when young, and gradually rise to the more difficult
processes. A manufacturer told me girls must be at it a year before they are
good pressers. For making ruches he pays by the week, from $1 to $4.50.
Ruche makers are not apt to be out of employment more than from two to
four weeks. P., New York, told us his workers are of all nations. Some work
by the week, sewing ten hours a day. Girls sit in his factory while at work,
but stand in most places. Standing is thought to be the easiest position, as it
allows of change. He told us that some girls earn as high as $6 a week. It is
piece work. Joining, sewing, and pressing are done by females, fluting by
men and boys. It is best for females that wish to learn the business to
commence quite early, say when twelve or fourteen years of age. P. thinks it
would not be advisable to introduce more workers into the occupation but I

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would advise any one desiring to learn the trade to make further inquiries
into the condition of the business. T., of Philadelphia, who has been in the
business a great many years, employs over one hundred females.

324. Dress Trimmings.

In London, many women and children are employed in making dress
trimmings. The children wind the quills, and the women wind the silk on
reels, and weave it, knit covers for fancy buttons, make fringes, tassels,
buttons, and other trimmings. In this country most of such work is done by
women and girls, the majority of whom are Germans, as are also the
proprietors. They are the best for hand work, but English trimming makers
are best for power looms. All large cities contain more or less
manufacturers of dress trimmings, but the business is mostly confined to
Boston, New York, and Philadelphia. Many who manufacture, also keep for
sale the different varieties of sewing and embroidery silk, zephyr wool,
patterns, and canvas, braid, and such articles. It is only within the last
twenty-five years that fringes and tassels have been manufactured in this
country, but quite a number of houses are now engaged in it. The goods are
said to equal those of Europe. "There are over 1,000 hands employed in this
branch in New York, at least three fourths of whom are females. Girls at
reeling earn $2.50; at braiding, $3.30; and at weaving, from $4 to $6." I
called at a factory where eighty girls are employed. They earn from $1 to $6
per week, doing both day and night work. No girl, the foreman said, can
earn $1 a day of ten hours at that work. When the snow is on the ground,
the girls can take work home with them to do at night, instead of remaining
at the factory. He says there are different seasons for different kinds of
trimmings, as buttons, fringes, gimps, &c., and the styles of these trimmings
change. Work is slack in the early part of the winter for a few weeks. It
would take three or four years to learn all the branches perfectly. Some sit
and some stand while at work. At a manufactory in New York, I was told
the season begins in September and lasts through the winter. Their hands
earn from $3 to $5 per week. There is an over supply of hands in New York.
At another place I was told the work is nearly always paid for by the piece.
Their hands earn from $3 to $5 per week. Men receive from $7 to $10.

Page 386

Women's part can be learned in from four to six weeks, and learners are
paid if they do not spoil too much material. June, July, December, and
January are dull months. In busy seasons good hands are very scarce. The
clerk of Messrs. B.'s factory told us the wages vary greatly. We glanced
over the account book, with his permission, and observed that the lowest
wages were about $1 a week, and the highest $4. It is piece work, and they
will not promise employment all the year. He says, if a girl that learns
cannot earn something in a year, she is not worth having. Their work is for
wholesale houses. At one place I was told the girls work nine hours a day,
and receive $4 a week—six months learning. After the first week they were
paid $1.50 a week for six months. They make up a stock when not doing
ordered work. N. employs from fifty to one hundred women, and
sometimes more. They can learn in fourteen days. He pays from the first,
and pays by the week, they working from six to six, having an hour at noon.
It requires but a few weeks to learn one branch. One girl told me she works
by the piece, and sometimes earns from $3 to $6 a week. She works from
seven in the morning till gaslight. Girls, when reeling and braiding, stand.
To those engaged in this kind of work, there is employment all the year to
twenty-five out of every hundred; the rest are occupied from July to
January. When paid by the week they seldom receive more than $4, though
by taking it home and working more hours they sometimes make $5. Prices
in this kind of work have fallen considerably in the last few years. I have
been told by a manufacturer that the class so employed is usually of not so
elevated a character as some others. The prices paid and work given for so
short a time, prevent the best class of workers from entering the business. M
—s, Philadelphia, employ about seventy females, including bookkeepers,
saleswomen, and trimming makers. In the dull seasons their operatives are
not likely to be thrown out of work, as the wholesale dealers will always
require them. The workers are paid by the piece, according to the degree of
perfection they have attained. When a girl presents herself for employment,
the foreman immediately sets her to work on some easy kind of trimming,
but she receives no wages until her work is fit for sale. The loss of time on
her part and the risk of materials on the part of the employer constitute the
apprenticeship. A smart girl will of course soon be able to earn something,
and has always the stimulus of increasing her gains. The class of girls in the
store seemed to be superior to those in the workroom, more intelligent and

Page 387

refined. The workrooms were large and airy. The weavers, button makers,
&c., work from eight to ten hours a day. Another proprietor said a person to
learn the business should go to a small place, where only a few are
employed—not to a factory, as they will not be troubled with learners in a
factory. Some of his hands work slowly, but execute in a superior manner;
others work rapidly, but make the article in an inferior manner. At another
manufacturer's, one of the firm told me a good hand can earn from $5 to $6
a week, ten hours a day, when times are good. They pay, after a learner has
spent a week at it, according to what she can accomplish. The prospect for
work is good, but he would not advise a lady to learn it; he thinks millinery
better. In a town not far from New York, where he lived, a milliner could
earn $20 a month and her board. Crocheting pays better. For crocheting the
heads of silk fringes, a girl may earn $5 a week. I saw the agent of a lady
who has trimmings manufactured. He says girls spend about two weeks
learning, and are then paid by the week, from $1 to $4. He thinks the
prospect for work very poor at present, for their work has been for the
South almost exclusively, and now the Southerners will not purchase,
particularly as such articles can be dispensed with. They have employed
hands all the year, but are most busy spring and fall. The busy season
commences in February. A manufacturer told me he pays his learners $2 a
week for a time. His girls have work most of the year. Good hands can earn
$5 a week. Some of his hands take work home with them to do in the
evening. From the arrangement of the conveniences in the room, I think the
air must be not only offensive but unwholesome. I observed this in two or
three other workrooms. At another factory, I was told it takes but four
weeks to learn, and girls during that time are paid fifty cents a week. Girls
earn from $3 to $5. One man told me he pays as soon as the work is done
well enough to sell. The largest manufactory in the world of dress
trimmings, curtain trimmings, carriage laces, and military goods, is that of
W. H. Horstman & Sons, Philadelphia. They employ four hundred hands,
the majority of whom are females. In R.'s dress-trimming manufactory,
Philadelphia, seventy females are employed, at an average of $2.75 a week.

325. Embroideries.

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Embroidery was a favorite employment of the ladies of ancient times. In the
days of Grecian prosperity it was a pastime among all ranks of ladies, and
in the middle ages it was no less popular. The French excel in embroidery.
Much of the embroidery sold in New York is done in Ireland. "A French
manufacturer has invented a process of applying the electric spark to
piercing designs on paper for embroidery." There now exists a machine by
which one lady can accomplish as much as fifteen hand embroiderers.
There are one hundred and fifty needles attached, all of which can be in use
at the same time. By it the most difficult patterns can be executed. Many of
the machines are now in operation in Germany, France, Switzerland, and
England. "The canton of Neufchatel employs more than 3,500 females in
hand embroidery, but this branch of the trade is principally carried on in the
eastern parts of Switzerland, where manual labor is extremely cheap." In
1851, 250,000 females were employed in Great Britain in muslin
embroidery, and the larger number of the women did the work at their own
homes. About a million and a half of dollars then passed out of the United
States in payment for a portion of this embroidery. We would be pleased to
see a greater demand for these articles from a home, and less from a foreign
market. The increased facilities for stamping impressions on the muslin, and
the consequent cheapness of doing so, tends to render the business more
lucrative to those employed. The prices earned depend on the skill and
experience of the worker. Embroidery may be divided into two kinds, cloth
and muslin. The first is used for thick goods, furniture covers, ottomans,
chair seats, tapestry, &c. The other kind consists in the embroidery of ladies'
caps, collars, handkerchiefs, and other light articles of apparel. The
materials used are cotton, linen, silk, and silver and gold thread.
Embroidery is paid for by the piece, according to the quality of the material
and the amount of work. For stamping muslin to embroider, four, six, and
eight cents a yard are paid, according to the width and style of pattern.
Some stamping is done with wooden plates, some with copper plates, and
some by a paper impression. The wooden plates cost from fifty cents to
$2.50. Metal tools for stamping cost more. It would be well, in
establishments where embroidery is kept for sale, to keep patterns on hand
for braiding, needlework, and embroidery. Such patterns have met with a
ready sale, and always will, when such a pastime is fashionable. I find fifty
cents a lesson is the usual price paid for instruction in embroidery, and a

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person accustomed to using the needle can learn in a few lessons. One lady
told me she charged twenty-five cents a lesson. An embroiderer told us but
little of such work is done now. A good deal of money was made at it, when
fashionable for outer garments and for children's flannel skirts. A gentleman
that has such work done told me that good medallion workers would find
employment. B., who employs some embroiderers, thinks there is not a
surplus of such labor. He could employ more hands. He pays by the piece,
from $3 to $7 a week. Taste and skill with the needle are required.
Embroidery pays poorly—one could not make a living at it now, unless they
had constant work, and were rapid with the needle: very few in New York
depend on it for a livelihood. D., a gold and silver embroiderer, thinks a
person of ordinary abilities could not get to embroidering well in less than
one year's practice. He pays something after a few weeks—as soon as the
work is done well enough to sell. Many Germans and French have taken the
custom. The Germans do it for less, and consequently root out other
embroiderers. So there is not much prospect for work in New York. He has
considerable done for cap makers and flag makers, who send South and
West. He pays his girls from $4 to $5 a week, and they work from eight to
six o'clock. I was told at another place that gold and silver embroidery pays
well. The lady that works for W. earns $25 a week. A man writes: "You are
aware that women are unable to make the very finest kind of needle
embroidery, and that wherever the highest skill is required, men are
needed?" We are aware there are some womanish men in France that
embroider, but we must have facts before we are convinced that women
cannot equal men in embroidering. A young lady, keeping an embroidery
store in New York, told me her father cuts stencil plates with chemicals for
embroiderers. In some establishments they are cut by steam power. Her
father made wooden plates, but it would not pay. It takes but a short time to
learn stamping, which pays better than embroidering. Those that do
embroidery cheapest, get most to do. The greater part of it is done in winter
evenings, as a pastime by ladies. Many ladies have stamping done before
they go to the country in the summer, and embroider while they are in the
country, putting out their plain sewing. Ladies that embroider, generally do
their own stamping. M. knows one lady that embroiders for two or three
stores, and makes a very good living. But she thinks very few have enough
embroidering to do to occupy all their time. The Broadway stores have

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considerable embroidery ordered, and get very good prices; but their
embroiderers, I have been told, are not better paid than those of other
people. Some stores give it to ladies who do it for pocket money. Some of
these ladies talk about embroidering for their friends, but, lo and behold!
they expect their friends to pay them. It requires considerable practice in
embroidery to keep the stitches even, and properly shape the leaves and
flowers. A French woman told me she used to get $1.20 a day for
embroidering fine collars in Paris.

326. Feathers.

Mrs. M., Philadelphia, has served an apprenticeship of five years at dressing
and dyeing feathers, and is now (and has been for fifty years) able to
perform every part of it herself, including the preparation of the dyes. She
employs women, but they do not give themselves the time or trouble to
learn enough of it to carry it on on their own account, but are satisfied to
acquire enough of it to enable them to earn a day's wages. From the
information obtained from this veteran, we concluded that this trade can be
very well carried on by women alone; and farther, that there will always be
considerable demand for feathers and plumes, at least in large cities. Ladies'
plumes pay best. She prepares plumes for the military. At a feather store in
New York, the lady said the season commences in May. Learners are paid
$1.50 the first week, and, if they become good workers, may in a few
months earn as much as $6 a week. Mrs. D. says she would like to teach
some one the business, and establish them where she is. She would turn
over her custom to them. She would do so for $200. Her location is a good
one. She would instruct how to curl, mend, sew, and color the lighter
shades, for $5. She says it is not unhealthy, but requires one to be much on
her feet. Taste, both native and cultivated, are required for success. I saw
turkey feathers made into a light, delicate plume, and those of geese into
flowers. Some feathers from the tails of roosters formed large, dark, rich-
looking plumes for children's hats. This I mention to show what the poultry
of our own barnyards can produce. Mrs. D.'s work was not confined to the
feathers of domestic poultry. In dull seasons she prepares feathers for busy
seasons. Connected with her business might be the making and selling of

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artificial flowers and head dresses. She says a superior feather worker can
earn $6 a week, and a few even $8. Mrs. N. told me she takes learners,
paying $1 a week for one month, then more if the worker is worth it, and so
on. She will not teach to dye. All the American feathers used in the United
States are sent from New York. A colorer and curler of fancy feathers told
me it does not require more than a few weeks to learn, if you can see the
process constantly during that time. It is easier to learn to curl than dye. To
dye feathers on a small scale is troublesome, for if you have a feather to be
dyed one color, another of a different shade, &c., you must mix up just
enough coloring matter for each one. A lady, that would learn the business
well, might make a living at it in the South or West.

327. Hoop Skirts.

There are now hundreds of women employed in the manufacture of hoop
skirts, that will, when the fashion ceases, be thrown out of employment.
What resource will they have? It may be that some other fashion will spring
up requiring their services, but we doubt it. D. & S., New York, employ
from 600 to 1,000, and once had 1,500 girls working for them. They have
large well-aired rooms. We passed through and saw their girls at work. They
were neat, well dressed, and cheerful looking. Nine tenths are Americans.
Most of the girls have homes. D. & S. have established a free library of two
thousand volumes for the girls, but owing to the negligence in not returning
books taken out, they lost so many that the library is no longer accessible to
them. The trade of D. & S. is Southern. Their girls earn from $4 to $8 per
week, and work 9½ hours a day in winter. The girls can change their
position frequently. Women are superior to men for this kind of work. While
learning, girls receive enough to pay their board. The continuance of this
occupation depends entirely on fashion. S. thinks the fashion as likely to
last as the wearing of bonnets. Most of the small establishments in this
business have been absorbed by the large ones. From December to April are
the best seasons for work; from June to September the most slack. T., a
large manufacturer, says the average pay is from $4 to $4.50. His
forewoman earns $400 a year. Some girls are dull, and some are smart—so
the time of learning depends much on that. They pay the girls something

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from the time they begin to learn. They work ten hours a day. As a general
thing the girls and women spend all the money they can spare for dress. The
firm have thought of establishing a savings bank in connection with their
manufactory, for the benefit of their workwomen, but have never yet found
time. Some they pay by the piece; some, by the day; and others, by the
week, or year. Some seasons they employ about one thousand work people,
of whom nine hundred and fifty are women and girls. I saw, at a factory,
some girls covering wire for hoops. The machinery was very ingenious.
They are paid $3, and a few $3.50. They have to stand all the time, and
watch their work constantly. They work ten hours. The man can always get
enough of hands. It requires but a short time to learn. They have work all
the year. The spooling, respooling, and covering, are all done by women.
Girls can earn from $2 to $6 a week, working ten hours. I saw an old
woman who spools cotton for covering hoop skirts. She receives five cents
a score, and cords six scores a day, earning thirty cents. At a factory I was
told the girls work by the piece, and get from $4 to $5 per week. Owing to
the want of proper management on the part of the proprietor, I found the
girls do not have work steadily. Sometimes they get out of clasps, or tape,
or hoops, and cannot get them immediately, because of their distance from
the stores. At B.'s hoop-skirt factory, he told me he pays from $2 to $7 a
week to his girls, and he employs between two hundred and three hundred.
It takes but a few days to learn. The season commences about the middle of
November. The twelve o'clock bell rang, and I heard one girl say: "Let's
swallow our dinner, and, when we have time, chew it." I called at A.'s
factory. He has about two hundred girls, and they receive from $2 to $5 a
week—working ten hours a day. They were nice, bright-looking girls. More
hoop skirts are manufactured in New York than in any other city. I was in a
factory where hoop skirts were woven by hand. The weaver girl we spoke
to, said she did not get tired now, but did when she commenced. The girls
are paid by the piece, and a good weaver, when industrious, can earn $1 a
day. They do not sell so many as formerly. At O.'s, they have employed two
hundred girls, but discharged one hundred the day before, and the girls earn
from $3 to $4. Last year they sold more than ever before. They pay from the
time a learner enters, but of course the pay is small for a time. They begin at
the lowest branches and gradually rise. Those at machines sit, and those at
frames stand. Some skirts excel in elegance of shape, some in durability,

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and some in elasticity. Many improvements have been made since their
introduction into this country. The prices paid were better at first than since
there has been so much competition. At S.'s factory, I was told the girls are
paid every Saturday night. They are not paid while learning, but, when they
have learned, can earn from $3 to $5 per week. Some of their girls take their
work home. The amount of work depends on the market. So they cannot tell
what amount will be done next spring. They are making up to send to New
Orleans. Prices have fallen for this work, and so a smaller number are
employed than formerly. Spring and fall are, of course, the best seasons for
work. The bindings are sewed on by machines, and operatives get about $5
per week. A. writes from Massachusetts: "Women are employed in Europe
in making hoop skirts, principally in London and Paris. In our country they
earn from $4 to $6 a week. I pay my men higher wages, on account of the
labor they perform, requiring more exercise both of body and mind. The
work of a woman can be learned in a week or ten days, but constant
practice for months gives greater skill and success. The employment is very
neat and clean, and gives exercise to the whole system. Women are quicker
in motion than men, and their powers of endurance greater. A sound mind in
a sound body, and ambition to excel, together with a tolerable love of
money, are qualifications necessary to render a girl desirable in this
business." This branch of business has given employment to upward of
twenty thousand women in the city of New York, and States of
Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island. The business is usually
suspended for the winter months. In New York city there is always a surplus
of girls seeking labor; they are daughters of the poorer classes, and live in
tenement houses, in close quarters—are shabbily clad, and their wages go to
support perhaps a drunken father, or a widowed mother and fatherless
children. This class of girls contrast sadly in looks and health with country
girls, accustomed to breathe the free air of heaven. Their flattened chests,
pale faces, and scanty wardrobe tell too plainly of the competition of labor
among girls in that great city. I am told by manufacturers, in New York, that
the daily applications of girls for employment, at their counting houses, is a
source of annoyance, and that they are obliged to paste placards on their
doors to avoid them. This business can be best prosecuted in localities
where the materials can be purchased, and near markets where they are
sold. The fact that workwomen are not paid as well as men, is owing to

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competition. In New England, men laborers are scarce, but women compete
with each other. "Board, $2 for ladies, $3 for men." A manufacturer in
Connecticut, employing from fifty to one hundred, writes he "pays from $3
to $4 per week. The best seasons for work are from Jan. 1st to April 1st, and
from June 1st to Nov. 1st. They work eleven hours per day. Women are
superior to men, in the more ready use of their fingers. Board, $1.50 to $2.
Quickness and dexterity are qualities most needed." O. & C., Connecticut,
write, their girls, "above one hundred and twenty, work by the piece, and
earn from fifty cents to $1.12 per day, in proportion to their skill and
industry. A very few in one branch earn more. Living on fashion, is of
course uncertain. Business months, May, June, October, November, and
December. Women are generally inferior in construction and skill. Board,
$1.75 to $2.50." Manufacturers in Ashfield, Mass., write: "We employ
about one hundred and twenty women. The greater part of them do the work
at their own homes. Some baste the work together, some work the sewing
machines, some draw the bastings, and others sew on the buttons and finish
the work. Our work is all done by the piece. Those who work the machines
can easily earn eighty-three cents a day of ten hours—the others earn from
thirty-three to fifty cents, according to age, activity, and capacity. We pay
men $1 a day for cutting the work and packing the goods. Neatness and
despatch are desirable for workers; and for operatives, sufficient ingenuity
to keep the machines in good order and condition. The work is as
comfortable and pleasant, perhaps, as any employment whatever. Board,
$1.50." I find some firms work ten hours, some eleven.

328. Muslin Sets.

Many girls are employed in large cities in making up lace goods, as collars,
undersleeves, &c. S. employs two women to make up undersleeves, caps,
&c., and pays from $3 to $5 per week to each. They stay from 8 to 6
o'clock. There are too many in that business who are not well qualified.
Very few are Americans. Miss A. used to make up sets, and earned $10 a
week often (piecework), before the Southern trade became so poor. Girls
earn from $3 to $5 a week for this kind of work. It is cut and prepared by a
forewoman. Some women sell lace goods on the streets of London. I called

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on a man who employs a number of girls to make crape collars. He says
experienced hands can earn from $20 to $26 a month. They work by the
piece. It does not require long to learn. Mrs. H. called on a Frenchman who
advertised for hands for that purpose. He offered her $1.50 a dozen for
making ornamented ones.

329. Parasols and Umbrellas.

The parasol was used by the ancients more in religious ceremonies than as a
protection from the sun. In some of the warmest countries, they are as much
used by men as women. The manufacture of parasols and umbrellas is quite
extensively carried on in this country, and is one that pays pretty well. At
S.'s umbrella manufactory, Philadelphia, great numbers of women are
employed—one hundred and seventy-five in his principal establishment,
and nearly as many in its branches, and some at their homes. They make
and sew on the covers, and are paid by the piece, according to the material
and workmanship. It requires about six weeks to learn umbrella making.
The girls we saw leaving the premises looked tidy and cheerful. S.
remarked that those who live at a distance from the workshop, generally
arrive earlier than those who live near. He thinks, if they would abstain
from excessive use of tea and coffee, they would enjoy better health. They
used to employ Americans principally, but now have foreigners, mostly
Irish. They can come and go during work hours as they please. Last summer
there were twelve hundred females, in Philadelphia, engaged in making
umbrellas and parasols. In most umbrella factories in New York, girls are
paid eight, nine, and ten cents an umbrella. For silk umbrellas, they receive
only two cents more than for cotton ones. Parasols range in price from four
to twenty-four cents, according to size, style, and quality of material. Old
hands, in some houses, take apprentices for two or three weeks, and receive
the proceeds of their work for the time given in instructing them. March,
April, and May are the busiest months for making city parasols; and
August, September, and October for umbrellas. Where I purchased an
umbrella in New York, the man said he employed two women in spring and
one in winter to work. The parasol work pays best. His girls earn, when
making parasols, from $5 to $6 per week; but umbrellas seldom pay more

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than half that. The wholesale parasol work commences about the middle of
December, but his, being retail for the city, does not begin until May. A girl
in the trade told me that umbrella sewers can earn from $2 to $6 per week.
Of course they have not work all the year steadily. She is paid to stay in the
store, and is expected to spend any unoccupied moments in sewing for the
shop. An umbrella maker told me his girls earn from $2 to $6, according to
the kind and quantity of work they do. He thinks the occupation well filled.
In New York city, in 1853, there was one parasol and umbrella firm that
employed two hundred and fifty girls, and their average wages were $4 a
week. In the umbrella business the work is invariably paid for by the piece.
A gentleman told me that girls in that branch of work become very immoral
from association with men while at work; but in large establishments the
females have a separate workroom, and there is no need of their ever seeing
any man while at work, except the foreman. (Why might they not have a
forewoman?) S. Brothers say their girls earn from $2 to $8 a week. They
keep them employed most of the year—their best hands all the year. Most
of the work is done at the factories, but some girls run up the covers at
home, and come to the factory to put them on the frames. I was told that in
Philadelphia, work can be done as well for lower prices, because living is
cheaper. My experience as to the price of living was to the contrary. I talked
with one girl who had been making umbrellas seven years, but thinks she
will die of consumption in less than two years, from the long and close
confinement; but I think the detriment to health arises more from the dust
and coloring matter that rubs off the umbrella muslin, particularly in
summer, when the coloring matter is absorbed freely by the openness of the
pores. A manufacturer told me his hands could earn from $4 to $6 a week. A
learner must spend three weeks without remuneration; then she is paid
according to the quality and amount of work done. About one fourth of his
girls are Americans, that have worked out, but desire to do something they
think more respectable. His hands have work all the year, with the
exception of six weeks. The busy time commences in January. Most of his
girls run them up at home, but put them on the frames at the factory. S.,
New York, says the business is bad in July, and part of August—also in
February. In his factory, some tailoresses, and girls that sew for milliners
and dress makers, get employment until the busy seasons of their trades
come round. His women get for sewing from $2 to $3 a week; those that cut

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get from $5 to $8. It requires about two weeks to learn the business. A good
use of the needle is necessary in a sewer, and economy in the use of the
cloth for a cutter. The business is likely to increase. In busy seasons there is
often a demand for good hands. In Paterson, Newark, and other towns
where the Irish prevail, they usurp the labor even in umbrella making. In
New York city a foreign influence predominates, and many Irish have come
into the business there within the last year. The importation from England
of umbrellas (like almost everything else) is less and less every year. Some
manufacturers have the hemming done by machines. S. will not, because it
throws many women out of employment. A Broadway manufacturer
informs me he pays the ladies who attend his store, each $5 per week—
those who sew are paid by the piece, and average $4.50 per week. He pays
while learning, the time of which is one month. A good maker will always
find employment. The best season is from January to June. Those who
attend store are there from 8½ until 7 P. M. A manufacturer in New York,
who employs eighty girls, informs me "he pays by the piece, and each earns
about $4 per week. Spring is the most busy season. Men and women pursue
different branches. Board, $1.50 to $2." An extensive manufacturer, a Jew,
in New York, complained to me that women do not stick to one trade. He
has often had women who have been sempstresses, cap makers, &c. Some,
too, will not remain long at this work—they want to go at something else.
Now, I would ask what a woman is to do, when her trade gives her work but
part of the year, and her wages for that are merely enough to keep her alive
during that time? Is she to be blamed for going to another trade in the
interval? No—she is to be commended for her prudence and good sense. Do
men confine themselves to one trade, if they find they can do better in
another? The proprietor said he would not receive any applicants but those
that are of good families and bring certificates of character. He pays by the
dozen, and his women earn from $3 to $4 per week. Some parts of the
work, he says, is done by machinery that women cannot manage. They
receive enough to pay their board while learning. A woman that has been a
milliner has acquired a skill with her needle, a smoothness and softness of
touch, that enables her to become a very good umbrella maker. Such a one
is best fitted for sewing on silk umbrellas. One that has been a tailoress and
accustomed to sewing on heavy cloths is deficient in fineness of touch, and
cannot succeed so well. The secretary of the Waterloo Company writes:

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"The girls of the factory are all paid by the piece, and earn from $3 to $5
per week. Men receive $1.25 per day, and are practical mechanics. The
work of the females is easy, and requires little or no experience. Work hours
average ten, the year through. The women are all American. Men's board,
$3; girls', $2.50." A manufacturer in Concord, New Hampshire, "pays his
girls from $10 to $12 a month. Women can learn their part in from one to
three months. The best seasons for work are spring and summer—the
poorest, winter. Board, $6 a month." Manufacturers in Boston write: "We
employ one woman the whole year in cutting out covers of umbrellas and
parasols, and pay her $6.50 a week the year round—to another, who
performs the same kind of work, in busy times, say from November 1st to
July 1st, we pay $5.50. A superintendent, who gives out and receives back
the work and keeps the pay roll, receives $5.50 part of the year, and $4.50
the other part. From March 1st to July 1st we employ thirty girls to sew up
covers and put on frames, and pay by the piece. They average $4 per week.
We keep ten girls, for this kind of work, through the winter. It takes four or
five years for men to learn the business; women well versed in the use of
the needle, two or three years. From December 1st to March 1st, some of
our women work on furs, or upholstery, and some are unable to obtain any
kind of work. The supply is more than the demand, particularly this year. As
a location for this business, the advantages are in favor of New York,
because of the large market, and on account of the principal part of the
material being made there. Most of our hands board with relations or
friends, because they find it difficult to get boarding places at such prices as
they are able to pay. Board, from $1.75 to $3.00." Umbrella stitchers in
New Britain, Connecticut, "have some girls tending machines, to whom
they pay from 50 to 75 cents per day of ten hours. They have some to sort
and pack goods. Women can do the light work somewhat cheaper than men,
and are somewhat quicker. No other parts of the work are suited to their
strength and dress."

330. Sempstresses.

In 1845, there were in New York ten thousand sempstresses, and now there
are probably many more. "The following are the prices for which a majority

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of these females are compelled to work—they being such as are paid by the
large depots for shirts and clothing, on Chatham street and elsewhere:—For
making common white and checked shirts, six cents each; common flannel
undershirts the same. These are cut in such a manner as to make ten seams
in two pairs of sleeves. A common fast sempstress can make two of these
shirts per day. Sometimes, very swift hands, working from sunrise till
midnight, can make three. This is equal to seventy-five cents a week
(allowing nothing for holidays, sickness, accidents, being out of work, &c.)
for the first class, and $1.12½ for the others. Good cotton shirts, with linen
bosoms, neatly stitched, are made for twenty-five cents. A good sempstress
will thus earn $1.50 a week by constant labor. Fine linen shirts, with plaited
bosoms, which cannot be made by the very best hand in less than fifteen or
eighteen hours' steady work, are paid fifty cents each. Ordinary hands can
make one shirt of this kind in two days. Duck trousers, overalls, &c., eight
or ten cents each; drawers and undershirts, both flannel and cotton, from six
to eight cents at the ordinary shops, and 12½ cents at the best. One garment
is a day's work for some, others can make two. Satinet, cassimere, and
broadcloth, sometimes with gaiter bottoms and lined, from eighteen to
thirty cents—the latter price paid only for work of the very best quality.
Good hands make one a day. Their coats are made for from 25 to 37½ cents
apiece. Heavy pilot-cloth coats, with three pockets, $1 each. A coat of this
kind cannot be made under three days. Cloth roundabouts and pea jackets,
twenty-five to fifty cents. These can be made in two days." In a large town,
in Massachusetts, we read, not many months past, of overalls being made at
thirty-seven cents per dozen, or three cents a pair, and shirts at forty-eight
cents per dozen, or four cents apiece. When the times are hard, prices fall
from their usually low standard. Our hearts sicken within us as we read the
prices paid needlewomen. The trifling remuneration and wasted health of
most needlewomen is a bitter reflection on those who employ them. Some
clothing merchants and cap and shirt makers pay their women such prices
as enable them to live—better than those mentioned above. They are houses
of a more respectable class, that have a position, and deal with a more
liberal class of people. The occupation of sempstress is crowded to
overflowing in New York. In business times it is impossible to get a
working person to leave New York, but in hard times they are very willing
to go. One firm told me that they often have applications for operators and

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sempstresses in busy seasons, but then they will not leave; and when the
times are dull there is no demand, and they cannot. The supply of labor has
been greater than the demand, and hence the competition that has arisen
among clothing merchants, and the low price of made clothing as sold in
slop shops. The use of sewing machines has to some extent done away with
sewing by hand. Many a woman has been thrown out of employment by it,
to which many of our newspapers can testify, and have borne witness
during the past two years. We have heard of some slop shops in large cities
offering to pay the highest wages to good shirt makers, each applicant to
take a shirt and make it for nothing, as a sample of her sewing. From one
hundred to two hundred, perhaps, apply, and, of course, that many shirts are
made. It meets the demand of the unprincipled shopkeeper, and he has,
perhaps, employment for a dozen or more. A man that has a ladies'
furnishing store, told me he pays girls that sew neatly by hand 37½ cents a
day. Many clothing merchants have their work done in the country, because
they can have it done more cheaply. The sewing done by French linen
makers is very beautiful. The majority of sempstresses have no time they
can call their own. Those that sew twelve or fourteen out of the twenty-four
hours, without any relatives or friends even to be protectors for them, and
often in bad health, have no time for mental improvement or social
intercourse. "The habits of the sempstress are indicated by the neck
suddenly bending forward, and the arms being, even in walking,
considerably bent forward, or folded more or less upward from the elbows."

331. Sewing Machine Operatives.

There has probably been no invention in which so large a number of
persons have realized fortunes as the sewing machine. All the first
manufacturers of them have amassed money. In the United States 150,000
sewing machines are in use. Miss P. says, a sewing machine and baster do
the work of ten hand sewers and five basters. We hear of some sewing
machines in London, each of which can accomplish as much as fifteen pairs
of human hands. At several highly respectable establishments we were told
their operatives earn from $4 to $7 a week, according to the abilities of the
operative, the kind of machine, and the style of work. In houses of lower

Page 401

standing, operatives earn from $3 to $5. I was told of one man who hires a
number of girls to work on machines at $2.20 a week. At Y. & Co.'s,
operatives earn from $2.50 to $4. Machine stitchers of leather generally get
$6 a week. The usual number of hours for operatives is ten. I have been told
that the secret of its being so difficult to get basters is, they are paid poor
wages. A clothing merchant in the Bowery says he has a family working for
him that earn $28, and sometimes $30 per week. They use two machines.
The machine-made clothing for men sells at about the same price as hand-
made, and is generally liked as well by purchasers. We think, the sewing of
ladies done by machine does not pay quite so well as hand sewing; but if we
sewed for a living, we would give the machine the preference, because of
its rapid execution. C., who employs about four hundred hands, says their
dull season begins the 4th of July. L., who sells sewing machines, told me
he frequently has applications for operatives to go into clothing
manufactories. G. & B. occasionally have applications from other places,
but always give the choice to those who have learned with them. L. thinks
the employment of operatives will not amount to anything as a permanent
reliance out of cities. He thinks in one or two years the sewing machine will
be used in almost every family—as much domesticated as the wash tub. In
cities where clothing, bagging, &c., are made in large quantities, of course,
there will be a demand for some. L., superintendent of E. S.'s machines,
employs from three to twelve ladies, and pays from $5 to $10 a week. They
stay from eight to ten hours. A lady, who hires sewing machines, and sends
out operatives, told me she charges $2 a day for a machine and operative,
sending both, and giving twelve hours' time, or from $1.25 to $1.50 for an
operator only, according to the number of hours given. If they are hired for
a week or more, the prices are still lower. I think the usual hire of a machine
only is $2 a day. A man that hires machines told me that he rents for from
$3 to $5 per month, keeping the machine in repair during the time, if it is
not badly used. Singer's principal machine is a strong, heavy one, most
suitable for cloth, and requires much strength to work long at a time.
According to D., a clothing merchant, a woman with one of Singer's
machines can do all the stitching of twelve pairs of cloth pantaloons in a
day; and a coat that formerly required two days to make by hand, can now
be made in one sixth of a day. W., agent of W. & W.'s machine, says the
lady that has charge of L. & S.'s sewing department, told him ladies prefer

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to have their sewing done by machines, and that B. will not have his
mantillas made by hand. He told me of a woman that takes in $30 a week
with the aid of two girls, to whom she pays $6 a week each, leaving the
profit of $18 a week; and of another who makes $8 a week with her
machine. Now that machines are more plentiful, work done by them is not
so well paid. The sellers of machines say it is not unhealthy. Some people
suppose the machine to be much more injurious than the needle, if worked
as long and constantly. The tax on the muscles of the lower limbs and the
weaker parts of the system is certainly very great; yet those with treadles
are thought by some to be less injurious than those moved by steam. I
talked with a lady keeping a depository connected with an influential
church for the supplying of poor women with work. She thinks sewing
machines are very injurious—says a girl of seventeen will give out in three
or five years at most. It produces a pain first in the hips, and the jar affects
the nerves; and the sameness of the stitch on white or black goods produces
a constant strain of the eye. She mentioned a young woman who came a
few days before to get sewing, who had worked at B.'s five years on a
machine, and her sight had so failed her that she cannot see to work now by
gaslight. She was but twenty-three, but looked to be thirty years of age.
Sewing by machine, I have been told, injures some kinds of goods. The
needle being large, threads of the cloth are liable to be broken. Changing
the kind and quality of goods in operating injures a machine. The utility and
profit of sewing machines have to a great extent been usurped by Jew men,
that are tailors and cap makers. I have heard that many respectable men in
New York, after coming home from business, spend nearly or quite all the
evening in operating on machines, doing the family sewing that has been
cut and basted ready to stitch. What can we say of such effeminacy and
meanness, when done by those that are able to give such work to poor
women? A lady remarked to me: "When sewing machines were invented, it
was said new occupations would be opened to women as the machine came
in use, and deprived some of a livelihood; but it is eight years since, and I
have not heard of one." The sewing machine has certainly thrown many
women out of employment. Those who are able to purchase one may get
along. It is in this as in every other branch of labor—a capital, however
small, is an assistance in business. One advantage always gained by
machinery is that it enables the poor to purchase more cheaply the materials

Page 403

used by them. Freemasons often buy machines for the widows they help to
support. In some of the large manufactories of Dublin, where sewing
machines are used, from fifty to two hundred women are employed.

Page 404

FUR WORKERS.

332. Dyers.

Dyeing furs is wet and dirty work, and the odor is very disagreeable. I was
told by a lady that girls at such work can earn $4 a week, or if by the piece,
from $5 to $6. There are very few indeed at it. She thinks it not unhealthy.
She sometimes cleans furs, mostly ermine, with a powder of some kind. In
the fur business, people must sell enough in three months to keep them the
other nine months of the year. In the summer they take time to examine,
purchase, and make up furs. C., a fur dyer and dresser, told me he once
employed an Englishwoman to flesh fine skins—i. e., take off the flesh that
adheres to a skin when removed from an animal. It is done with a sharp
knife. She earned as much as a man, $1.50 a day. But men object to
working with women in that business; and no American women, to his
knowledge, know how to do it.

333. Sewers.

From conversations with a number of fur dealers in Philadelphia and New
York, I find the rate of wages for sewers runs from $2.25 a week to $8.
Forewomen get good wages. Some sewers and liners are paid by the piece,
and some by the week. Those who work by the week are paid for extra
hours. A small number of the women employed in New York are English,
but the majority are Germans, who have learned the business in their own
country. In Germany most of the men learn to sew, and most of the men
engaged in the fur business know how. Quite a number in New York are
married women, whose husbands are connected with the business. Furs are
sold only in the fall and winter, but made up in the summer. In a few places
they give work all the year to a small number of workers, but the majority
do not give work more than six months, from May to December. Some fur
sewers have another trade for the other six months, as hat binding, &c. It

Page 405

does not require long for a good sewer to learn—from one week to six.
There are some kinds of fancy fur sewing that require rather longer. No
women are employed in preparing the skins: that is done at different
establishments, generally in the suburbs, and exclusively by male hands.
The usual number of hours of sewers employed by the day is ten; but many
of those who sew by the piece take work home with them to do at night, and
so are enabled to earn considerably more. Men working in the fur business
in New York earn from $8 to $12 per week. The quilting for linings is done
by machines, but the linings are sewed in by hand. Liners are generally
better paid than sewers, and earn from $6 to $10. In extensive
establishments, a cutter and a certain number of sewers and liners confine
themselves to one kind of fur. Some furriers pay their learners enough to
board them; some do not pay anything. I think the supply of hands in New
York is equal to the demand. The best workers, of course, are most sure of
employment. New York is the great fur depot of the United States, but some
business is also done in Boston, Philadelphia, and Baltimore. Furs are sent
from St. Louis and Chicago to be made up in New York, and part of them
returned to be sold in those cities. Those that sew furs at home can most
conveniently take learners. There are a number of middlemen in the fur
business, who get work from the stores and make a profit by employing
women to do it at lower wages. Mrs. G., an importer and manufacturer, cuts
her own furs, particularly ermine and sable. She says furs are sometimes cut
in Germany by women, but people in this country think a woman cannot
properly cut them. Work at the fur business in England is said to pay better
than any other. G—s, the largest firm in New York, write: "We pay women
from $2.50 to $6 per week. Some work by the week, some by the piece.
Men get about double wages, but their work requires more physical
strength. Men do the cutting and matching, and it requires several years to
be a good workman. Sewers receive about half price while learning. Some
women can learn all that is necessary in a few months. The prospect of
employment is not so good as heretofore. The women work the year around.
Work hours are 9½. Board, $2 to $2.50 per week." Most furriers report the
employment healthy, but it is not, on account of the dust and loose hairs
flying, for persons predisposed to consumption. A furrier in New York
writes: "I pay mostly by the piece. It takes about one year and a half for
women to learn the parts they do. The amount of work hereafter depends

Page 406

some upon fashion and the weather. The best seasons for work are from
May until February. We could not shorten the hours of work unless the
business had a longer season. Board, from $1.50 to $2." A furrier in Boston
writes: "Women are employed for sewing and lining furs here, in England
and France, and partially in Germany, Russia, &c. Week hands get from $4
to $4.50, ten hours a day; others, from $2 to $6. Business in future is
uncertain. I am busy from July to Christmas. The best location for the
business is where furs are fashionable." A fur dealer in New York, who
employs from 10 to 15 women, gives the following answers to questions
concerning the fur business: "The work is very easy, and not unhealthy. I
pay women from $3 to $6 per week, ten hours a day. They are as well paid
as males, in proportion to the amount of work done. Any apt female can
learn in three months, and is always paid by me $2.50 per week while
learning. The business is better and there is more of it every year. Work is
steady from May to December; very little at other times. The comfort and
remuneration of the employment is satisfactory among working classes.
Women are more capable of handling a needle for light, fine work than
men. The colder the climate, the better the location for business, provided
people have money to buy furs." In some establishments where men and
women work in the same departments, they are allowed to talk while at
work; but the practice, some complain, is not conducive to good morals.
The character of the people and conversation, however, would decide that.

Page 407

FITTERS, CUTTERS, AND SEWERS OF LADIES' AND
CHILDREN'S WEAR.

334. Bonnets.

The making of silk, crape, velvet, and other fancy bonnets gives
employment to many females. Connected with this is the bleaching of
straw, Leghorn, and hair bonnets. In large cities this is a separate branch of
business. The making and selling of bonnets has long been one of the few
employments open to women in the United States. If a milliner gets a good
run of fashionable custom, she can do well. Most proprietors of millinery
establishments make a handsome profit on their goods, but some of the girls
employed receive but a scanty pittance. I have been told that in Holland
men milliners are common. From a newspaper we take this pithy article: "A
stranger in Mexico is struck with the appearance of the milliners' shops,
where twenty or thirty stout men with mustaches are employed in making
muslin gowns, caps, and artificial flowers." The cruelty exercised by some
milliners and dress makers toward those in their employ, by requiring of
them too long and severe application, is very great. Many girls suffer, as the
effects, diseases of the spine and the eyes. "In the case of the milliners and
dress makers in the London Metropolitan Unions, during the year 1839, as
shown by the mortuary register, out of fifty-two deceased, forty-two only
had attained the age of twenty-five; and the average of thirty-three, who had
died of disease of the lungs, was twenty-eight." But the length of time
required of their employés by milliners and dress makers in London is
longer than in the United States. A number of women are engaged in the
sale of millinery on the streets of London. Girls usually spend from six
months to a year learning the millinery business. Unless a girl has taste and
talent, she is not likely to be benefited even by a year's apprenticeship, for it
is rarely the case that they are instructed in any but the mechanical work.
No pains are taken to instruct them in what is becoming or stylish, what
shades are most harmonious, how to make a graceful bow, and turn a well-

Page 408

trimmed end, to arrange a face trimming, and render attractive the tout-
ensemble. A hundred small minutiæ are essential to a first-class trimmer,
among which is a nice discrimination of colors and shades. A knowledge of
the languages is, in cities, desirable for milliners' saleswomen. A love of
dress is said to be created by working at such articles. Many bad effects
must result from the indulgence of such a taste by those who receive the
small wages of most girls working at the millinery and dress-making
business. Over four hundred women are employed in the large straw-goods
and millinery establishments in Philadelphia. W. had, in 1854, three
hundred girls making and trimming bonnets, and twenty-six in the store as
saleswomen. They were paid from $2.50 to $6 per week. W. & L., his
successors, employ about twenty-five women constantly all the year, and
about one hundred and twenty-five on an average of six months in the year.
Their best workers and saleswomen receive about $1 a day; some get a little
more, and some rather less. The business has increased greatly during the
last few years. The only kind made by that firm are silk and fancy bonnets.
One of the firm told me that the largest establishments of fancy bonnets in
Paris employ only about fifty women. They have girls spend three months
learning, and pay nothing during the time. A girl does well to earn seventy-
five cents a day. Six years ago a good worker could earn $8 or $9 a week.
C., Philadelphia, employs twenty-six girls in the store and millinery
department, and pays about $4 a week, according to their capacity and
diligence. Learners spend six months with him. Some time ago I saw it
stated that there are "450 millinery establishments in New York city, and
1,800 milliners working in shops, and 900 at home;—35,000 silk and velvet
bonnets are turned out of the workshops of New York city, in the three
months of the fall, and the five months of what is known as the spring
trade." "Of straw bonnets, one million two hundred thousand are sold
annually to the milliners of New York for their trade alone." A tasteful and
dexterous trimmer can generally secure a good place and fair wages, but the
majority of milliner girls are apt to be out of employment, except in the
spring and fall. Most in the millinery business are Americans; yet French,
German, and English are well represented. The prices paid for bonnets vary
greatly in New York, according to the locality and establishment from
which they are obtained. No one who has not priced them could believe the
difference would be so great for bonnets of the same material and make,

Page 409

merely because purchased on such a street or at such a store. The milliner
girls of New York are said to be good looking. The time milliners and dress
makers spend at their work is such as to preclude (except in a few first-class
establishments) any time for exercise and mental culture. Their wages are
so low that they could not indulge in any recreation if they had the time.
Those girls that live at home can afford to do work cheaper generally than
others. Such girls are drawbacks to those who pay their board. Western
merchants do not purchase as much as formerly in New York, because
milliners have gone West. Southerners have purchased, until lately, nearly
all their bonnets at the North. There are, or will be openings in the South for
milliners. In 1845, "apprentices at the millinery business in New York gave
one year to learn, boarded themselves, and, in some of the most aristocratic
establishments, had to pay a bonus." Now it is different. The time given is
usually six months, and an apprentice receives her board for her work. Mrs.
S., Broadway, employs about fifty hands in the busy season—all American
girls, very genteel looking. It requires six months to learn. They are not paid
during the time; and, after that, are paid according to abilities. I called in
one establishment where there were two girls employed, American. They
received each $6 a week. A milliner told me she wanted a first-class
workwoman, and would pay from $6 to $7 a week, according to her
swiftness and taste. I called in a small store of dry and fancy goods, with
which was connected a millinery. The young lady waited on customers, and,
in the intervals, trimmed bonnets for the store. She received $1 a day, and is
at the store by half past seven, and leaves at nine at night. She lives near, so
she goes home to her dinner and supper. A lady told me of a Miss M., on
Canal street, who commenced the millinery business five years ago with
twenty dollars, and is now worth $3,000. A milliner in New York told me
she could, by piecework, sewing early and late, make $7 per week. Mrs. T.
has learners spend six months, during which time they are not paid. After
that she gives them from $3 to $7, according to competency. The number of
hours spent in the store depends on the agreement of the parties. One can
best learn where there are vacancies by inquiring at the millinery shops and
of girls working at the business. At a fashionable millinery, on Broadway,
the lady in the showroom told me the girls receive from $3 to $12, working
ten hours a day. There is one that selects, arranges, and invents, who
receives $12 per week. A surplus of indifferent hands can always be

Page 410

obtained. Sometimes good hands fail to get employment, because in busy
times some indifferent hands are engaged, and it is difficult to get rid of
them. She has had to turn away many nice-looking girls seeking for work.
On back streets and avenues in New York, women work longer, and the
stores are kept open later than on Broadway. On Division street, large cases
of bonnets are exposed for sale in summer on the sidewalks. In the poorer
portions of a city, people live much and sell mostly out of doors. Their
crowded apartments and the high price of rent account for it. D., on
Broadway, informs me that he knows of an invention connected with his
business—the sale of straw goods—that will throw ten thousand people,
mostly men, out of employment. He says his girls spend all they make on
dress. He has two forewomen, to each of whom he pays $500 a year. They
never save a cent. He had one to whom he paid $1,000, but she never laid
by a dollar. Women, he thinks, have not as much originality of thought as
men. They seldom invent. He would give $1,000 a year to a woman that
would think for him, and originate styles, and combine and arrange the
trimmings of his bonnets with taste. He walks on Broadway, and studies the
fashion of bonnets; but none of his women ever do. (Perhaps they have no
time.) Women, he thinks, never acquire such proficiency as men. They
advance to a certain degree in the art, and ever after are stationary. He
thinks it is partly because the majority look forward to marrying, and partly
because they are so constituted that they are not susceptible of acquiring the
highest degree of excellence. (I fear that D. does not consider that women
have not had as much time nor so many opportunities for improving
themselves as men, nor have they as much to stimulate them.) He pays
women from $3 to $8 per week. His girls spend four months learning. B.,
another Broadway bonnet-dealer, told me "good workwomen could at any
time find employment by going to the country towns around, but they do
not like to go from the city. Milliners often come to the city, and spend two
weeks trying to get hands, and then pay them more than they are worth to
go. His forewoman directs some of the trimmings, but part are left to the
taste of the girls. His is a wholesale business, and he trims many bonnets
before sending them away. Some of his girls earn on an average $7—a
forewoman more. The occupation is not entirely filled by good hands, and
pays well. He employs his hands about eight months." One of the
proprietors of a straw-goods warehouse told me "his women earn from $6

Page 411

to $10 (average $7 a week), ten hours a day. The season commences
December 1st, and runs to March 15th, and again from July 1st to
September 1st. Taste, industry, and imitative powers are the qualities most
needed. He employs about sixty in the busy season. When that is over, some
go to millinery shops and work, some to the country, and some to towns in
the surrounding States. The girls that work in cheap shops are mostly
Germans, and earn from $2 to $4. Some women, while learning, receive
their board for their work. By quilling ruches and such work, if not by their
bonnet work, they can earn their board. He does not pay learners, because
the waste of materials amounts to the worth of their work. Girls of Irish
parentage often make good milliners, and display very good taste in
trimming." A Boston milliner writes: "The wages of the women I employ
vary from $3 to $15 per week, of ten hours a day, according to the amount
of custom they can bring, and their aptness for the business. There are
comparatively few persons that make good milliners. As a milliner, one
must have good taste and nimble fingers; as a saleswoman, she needs to
understand human nature, have activity, an honest heart, and good
disposition. The best seasons are from March to July, and from September
to January." A lady in Reading, Pa., who employs girls, informs me "she
pays $3 a week, ten hours a day, to some; to others, $1.50, but the latter she
boards. A knowledge of reading, writing, and arithmetic is desirable." A
milliner in Auburn, N. Y., pays from $2.50 to $5 per week, of ten hours a
day. A girl spends six months learning, if she boards herself; one year, if
boarded by her employer. The dull months are July, August, January, and
February. A lady in Poughkeepsie writes "she gives from $2.50 to $3.50 and
board to some, and from $4 to $4.50 and dinner to those who lodge and
otherwise board themselves. It requires one year and a half to learn the
business thoroughly, and during the time they receive only board. None
should learn millinery except those who have homes, or design to carry on
the business. Her girls work from 7 A. M. to 7 P. M. The business is easy
and pleasant to the industrious and to those who can sit much. Out of work
hours, they have time for study, attendance on lectures, meetings, &c.
Board, $2." Millinery is often carried on in connection with some other
business, in small towns. A lady who combines millinery and book selling,
in Easton, Pa., furnishes board and pays from $1.50 to $2 per week, of
twelve hours per day, to her girls. She pays about one half the price of male

Page 412

wages. If they spend six months learning, she pays their board. Two or three
first-class milliners could find employment in Sacramento, California.

Page 413

335. Bonnet Frames.

Bonnets, of course, are worn in all civilized countries, and as long as
bonnets are worn there must be bonnet frames. Several hundred women are
employed in bonnet-frame making in New York. K. employs two hundred
girls, and H. one hundred and fifty. The time of learning is from two weeks
to two months, but some never learn. The more practice a worker has, the
better she succeeds. Learners are paid nothing. Some women working at the
trade, take learners for their labor. Workers earn from $2 to $12 a week, but
it is a rare thing any earn the last-mentioned sum. Fast hands, to work
constantly from 6 A. M. till 10 P. M., sometimes can. The usual price, in all
respectable establishments, is fifty cents a dozen. In busy seasons there is
sometimes a scarcity of hands. There are no factories South and West,
consequently they present openings for the business. Apprentices generally
commence in March. The busy seasons are from January to June, and from
August to December. Some houses are not busy until in February, and their
fall business lasts till January. The art of making the wire part of the frames
is learned in six weeks. The crowns are made by machinery attended by
women. Some manufacturers have all their women to work in the
establishments, but the majority have the work taken home. H. says "the
business is the same, so far as confinement is involved, as making up
clothes at home. The girls come two or three times a week for their work; so
they have that much walking. The prospect of work to competent hands is
good. He has a great many to reply to his advertisements for learners, but
for hands he has lately advertised seven times and got but five. Some leave
the business for places as saleswomen in millinery establishments; but that
is more uncertain, for it is more difficult to retain the same place long. It
requires a year to learn thoroughly. It is necessary that the work be
uniformly done; for instance, one hundred and twenty bonnet frames should
be so uniform that one would not differ from another. Buckram frames are
used to shape them on. The wages paid, he said, vary as much as the
rainbow. They range from $2.50 to $8. He knows one woman that earns $10
a week now and then. He sends goods away to California, and other parts of
the Union. He also manufactures for the city trade. The season for work to

Page 414

send away commences about the 20th of January, and ends about the middle
of May; the fall season begins 20th July, and ends 15th December. The city
trade gives work in the intervals. A girl of intelligence and ability can make
enough to keep her when out of work. Some employers keep their hands all
the time, for the sake of having them the next season. The girls employed in
the business are mostly Irish and Americans. He boarded some of his girls,
but they would associate with the servants. What was said before them was
repeated to the servants, and vice versa. They got the impression that he
was making money off their board, though he charged but $2 a week. He
thinks the result of large numbers of girls congregating in the same house is
bad. The influence of one depraved one may be exerted over every fourteen
good ones, and discontent and rebellion be the consequence. Few persons
are willing to board working girls, because the remuneration is small, and
the girls are expected to be furnished with nearly the same advantages as
higher-priced boarders. Those that work in their rooms are about the house
nearly all the time, and all expect the privilege of using the laundry for
doing their washing."

336. Bonnet Wire.

At a bonnet-wire factory, I was told but little of the work could be done by
women; but, if my eyesight did not deceive me, it could all be done by
women. Covering the wire was done on a steam-power machine, which
only required attention. The spooling is done by females, and also tying it
up, when covered, into bunches of twenty yards each. A manufacturer of
bonnet wire writes: "We employ some girls, and pay from $3 to $3.50 per
week, of twelve hours a day. Females cannot do all parts of the work. It
requires from one to four weeks to learn, and they receive while learning
enough to pay their board. The business is best nine months of the year,
during fall, winter, and spring. We prefer girls to boys, for such work as
they can do. Board, from $1.50 to $2."

337. Children's Clothes.

Page 415

Quite a number of stores are devoted to the sale of children's clothes in
large cities. A handsome profit is generally made by the merchant. At Mrs.
C.'s, between three hundred and four hundred females find employment in
making up children's clothing of all kinds (mostly infants'); also under-
garments for ladies. A large assortment is constantly kept on hand, and they
are ever busy filling orders; giving employment about nine months in the
year to all, and to some the year round. The work is mostly done by hand,
and to sew neatly is the only requirement. The work is all cut in the
establishment and given out, being piecework. The sewers earn from $3 to
$6 per week; cutters, the last-mentioned sum. Aside from these, a few girls
are employed in the establishment, who wait upon customers, and sew
when they have leisure.

338. Cloaks and Mantillas.

Mayhew says: "In London, the workwomen for good shops, that get fair or
tolerably fair wages, and execute good work, can make six average-sized
mantles in a week, working from ten to twelve hours a day; but the slop
workers, by toiling from thirteen to sixteen hours, will make nine such
mantles in a week." At a wholesale store, Philadelphia, where sixty women
are employed, I was told they earn from $3 to $6 per week. The head cutter
has $6, the assistant, $5. When the work is finished at the wholesale houses,
the good hands can find work at the retail houses. The best and most steady
hands are kept in work all the year. Miss S., New York, has her stitching
and seaming done by machines. She pays $5 a week to a good operator. She
does her own cutting. The prospect of employment to learners is good, even
in the city, in prosperous times. She has sold a great deal to Southern ladies
stopping at the hotels. She estimates one machine to do as much as seven
sewers. M. pays his girls $5 a week, and they work in daylight only. A
cutter designs, and consequently should have taste, judgment, and
experience. A good cutter can earn from $7 to $10 a week, and usually has
one assistant, who superintends the girls while at work. Several mantilla
manufacturers have failed, and he could get fifty thousand mantilla makers
to-day. G. & Co. make for wholesale houses. They pay by the piece, and a
girl can earn $4 a week, taking work home with her at night. It requires

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from six weeks to three months to learn. Nothing is paid during that time.
Mrs. M., who makes mantillas for S., Broadway, says she takes learners, but
they do not learn anything, for most they do is to pick out basting threads,
run errands, &c. Good sewers can make from $3 to $5 per week, ten hours a
day. Cutters can earn from $6 to $7. She thinks the prospect for a few, that
would properly qualify themselves, would be good in the South or West,
provided they find openings, take hands from New York, and be willing to
incur some expense for a short time. In Richmond, Savannah, and
Charleston, it has been almost impossible to get good hands. S. wanted a
woman cutter, and would pay from $8 to $10 for a competent one. His work
is done mostly in the house, and continues all the year. It is almost entirely
done by machine. B—s (German Jews) employ German girls mostly. They
prefer to keep old hands that have been with them several years. They think
German girls most industrious, and love best to make money. American
girls, B. charged (I think unjustly) with working just enough to get along,
and spending all their spare time promenading. According to his account,
cutters earn from $15 to $20 a week. He employs his girls most of the year.
The occupation of mantilla making, he says, is more than filled in New
York. Board, $2.50 to $3. At H.'s wholesale mantilla depot, I was told it is
best to learn to make mantillas with those who sew for the mantilla
merchants. Some of their girls sew in the building, some take their work
home. If they do not know applicants for work, they require some one as
security, who has property or is in business for himself. A gentleman told
me that, not long since, he saw an advertisement by a mantilla manufacturer
for men to make mantillas and cloaks. A manufacturer in Boston writes me
he "employs seventy-five women, and pays them mostly by the piece; some
receive as high as $12 per week, average $6. They are paid by the piece
from the first; but until they acquire dexterity, they can earn but $3 or less
per week. Cloak and mantilla making is constantly increasing, like the
ready-made clothing business. The busy seasons are from February to July,
and from September to December. Many are out of employment about three
months in the year. As sellers of goods, he finds men better qualified,
because of having been educated from children with views to business. The
New England States are the best for manufacturing, as in other localities it
is more difficult to obtain female help. Board, from $2 to $3." Another
cloak maker in Boston writes: "I employ from twenty to thirty women

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(mostly American), and pay by the day. They work nine hours a day, and
receive from $4 to $10 a week. A good sewer, with taste, will learn in six
months. Some learners I pay, some I do not. Spring and autumn are the
most busy seasons. The girls are not out of employment two months. I
employ three ladies as saleswomen. Board, from $2 to $5 a week." A cloak
and mantilla maker in New Haven writes me "he employs twenty-five
American girls, and pays by the week, from $4 to $8. He pays learners
when they have spent six months at the trade. His girls are principally
farmers' daughters, who are rapidly taking the place of men in stores.
Board, $2.25 to $3.50." A manufacturer in Providence writes: "I employ
women in making and trimming bonnets, making cloaks and mantillas, and
as saleswomen in my store. I pay by the week, from $3 to $8—average,
$4.75—ten hours a day. Six months is the time usually spent in learning
either trade. In January, February, July, and August, some of my workers are
out of employment. All are Americans, and pay for board from $2 to
$2.50." P., of Providence, "employs about twenty girls making dresses and
cloaks, whose wages depend upon their ability as sewers; average price per
week, about $4."

339. Costumes.

P. pays his girls (five in number), each, $3 a week. They work from eight to
five o'clock. He has no difficulty in getting hands. Anybody that can sew
can make costumes, but it requires taste for the design and arrangement of
such as his—theatrical. B.'s girls sew at the house, 9½ hours in winter, and
the best earn from $3 to $4 a week. Their costumes are theatrical, and are
very slightly put together. A slow, careful sewer would not answer for them.
They want their work done so that it will rip up easily. They have many
costumes on hand for sale. They have a lady cutter. They give employment
but four months, and they are in winter. W., employed in both flag and
costume making, has been in the business since 1822, and employs six girls
all the year. Flags, costumes, &c., used in the South, have always been
ordered in New York, so there will be some openings in the South for such
work. W. pays $3 and $4 a week to his best hands, and has his sewing done
in the house. His work is of a superior quality, and, consequently,

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commands a good price. He employs only correct and fast sewers. He
thinks there are openings for girls of good moral character, properly
qualified. A lady cutting out costumes told me that it requires judgment to
make the two halves alike—sleeves, for instance; also to know in how short
a time an article can be made up, where and how to get workers, &c. It is
difficult to get good hands, and some of the materials are costly—so they do
not like to give work to any one they do not know. A spangler receives from
them 62½ cents a day. Mrs. T. employs a number of hands, paying $3 a
week to those that work in the house—ten hours a day. Those that take their
work home are, of course, paid by the piece. She does all her own cutting
out. It requires ability to fit, ingenuity to design, and taste to execute.
Spangling pays best. She had a lady tinselling and spangling for her, that
made a good living at it. She does opera and theatrical work, mostly. She
makes some ball costumes also. Equestrian work she does not like, as it is
pretty much made up of horse trappings. The prospect for those who would
learn it well, she thinks very good. She finds it difficult to get superior
workers. The girls that sew for costumers are mostly those who prefer that
to going out to do housework, because they can have their evenings as their
own. It is usual to have a costumer travel with an opera troupe, who directs
and superintends the making up of costumes, and dresses the prima donna
before she makes her appearance on the stage. Mrs. S. takes learners,
paying them half price for two or three months, while learning. She makes
up most after Thanksgiving, for the Christmas festivities; but in summer she
makes up some ball costumes, and apparel and drapery for tableaux, and
operas at watering places. She has from one to two hundred women and
girls sewing for her at different times. Frequently she is very much hurried,
and must employ a great many to assist, for bills announcing operas are
often out before the costume is brought to her. At W.'s, they pay $3 a week
—ten hours a day—and are most busy about Christmas.

340. Dresses.

In Germany, many dress makers are men, and there is one on Broadway,
New York. France is the fountain head of fashion for ladies' dress. Most of
the fashions, however, are Americanized when introduced into this country.

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Dress is, to some extent, an index to the mind of the wearer. Judgment and
good taste are the best guides. Several things are to be taken into
consideration—age, complexion, proportion, means, station, comfort, and
decorum. A lady, with command of a full purse, can dress as she pleases.
Rich and elegant clothing, appropriately made, is an ornament, and well
becomes those that can afford it. With a scant purse, a lady cannot dress
very handsomely, yet she may always observe neatness and propriety of
costume. A passion for dress is apt to betray an empty mind or great vanity.
Much of the beauty of a dress depends on its tasteful make. If the figure is
bad, it improves it. If good, it adds to the beauty of the figure, which is one
of the most impressive modifications of beauty. In dress making, a lady has
only to establish a reputation as a successful fitter and fashionable trimmer,
and she will be sure of a run of custom and handsome profits. I am sorry to
say, in the majority of dress-making establishments, no reliance can be
placed on the word of the principals, in regard to the time work will be
finished. While many of those at the head of dress-making establishments
are realizing dazzling profits, the poor sempstress, working in busy times
from twelve to sixteen hours out of the twenty-four, receives the generous
allowance of from $1.50 to $4.50 a week. But few, and those only of much
skill, taste, and dexterity, ever gain better prices. Fitters and forewomen, in
some places, gain from $4 to $7 per week. I believe it is generally thought
men fit better than women, so many ladies have their basques and riding
habits made at tailors' establishments. We do not see why the plan used by
tailors, of fitting by measure, is not more generally applied to dress fitting.
Dress making is more fatiguing than millinery work, because you have to
sit at it more steadily and there is more sameness in it. Spring and fall are
the most busy seasons. Those who can secure sewing in good families, and
have some decent place to go in the intervals, are better off than most
others. They receive from 50 cents to $1.25 per day and their dinner. It
would probably require a little time to become known; and one, to succeed,
must know how to do all parts, from the fitting to the finishing off; so it
requires skill and a thorough knowledge of the business. A lady who sews
by the day told me she often gets her system out of order by the different
food of the several families she is in, and the different times of taking it. We
think there are no regular hours for those who work by the day in New
York. The length of the day depends on the mercy of the employer. "Dress

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makers in Boston, some years ago, adopted the ten-hour system, and now
average $1.25 per day. Previously they received but 75 cents or $1." The
demand for dress makers in the Northern and Eastern States is fully met,
but throughout the South and West there are openings, here and there, for
good dress makers. There is probably no occupation in which there are so
many incompetent persons as that of dress making. Many persons take it up
without having learned the trade at all, and many who become reduced in
circumstances immediately resort to it without any preparation, and are
destitute, not only of experience, but of skill, ingenuity, and taste. In New
York, the conditions on which apprentices are taken vary greatly. Some pay
nothing for six months, and even receive $10 or $15 for instruction. The
girls are kept at making up skirts, sewing up sleeves, and such plain work,
and so learn nothing during the time. Some are taken for a year, and
boarded during that time for their work. Some live at home, and are paid
from $1.50 to $2.50 for their work. Some are taken for two years, to learn
the trade thoroughly, and work from eight to twelve hours a day. Some
apprentices have not the ability to become good fitters and sewers, and are
destitute of artistic taste; but women seldom change from one employment
to another on discovering their incompetency. The majority, probably, have
not the time or means of doing so. Miss B. says those who sew for dress
makers receive from $2.50 to $4 a week, working ten hours a day.
Apprentices that can sew right well when they commence, receive at some
houses $2 a week for six months, but they are not taught to fit unless the
employer is a conscientious woman and there is a special contract. When
the busy season is over, the inferior hands are turned off without an hour's
warning. It is desirable to get a good class of customers, that the pay will be
sure, and that the dress maker may know what to rely on. Some dress
makers in New York have kept the patterns of ladies in the South, and made
their dresses for years. If a slight change was needed, for instance, the
length increased, or the waist made smaller, or vice versa, the lady wrote
accordingly. Miss B. never works for servants. They do not pay as well, and
are just as particular as their mistresses. She never works for a stranger,
unless recommended by one of her customers. Mrs. C. told me that a girl of
fair abilities can learn dress making in six months. The first three months
she does not pay anything, but the last three $1 a week. After they have
learned she pays according to their taste, skill, and industry. One girl, that

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has good taste in trimming and finishing off, she pays $4 a week; another,
that sews well and is industrious, but deficient in taste, she pays $2. They
all live at home. Those girls that live at home are often willing to work for
less than the ordinary wages, as they are not at the greatest of all expenses
—boarding. They work from seven in the morning until six, having an hour
at noon. They prefer it to the hours of some of the Broadway shops, which
are usually from eight to seven. By the first arrangement they are enabled to
get home early and go to any place of amusement. Miss H. told me that
three years ago she earned $7 per week, ten hours a day, sewing for a
French lady on Broadway, who had a great run of Southern custom. There
were many strangers in the city at the time. "Servant girls seldom pay over
$1 for making a dress; yet 10,000 servant girls in New York city, will have
from three to six and eight new dresses a year." At Wilson's Industrial
School, New York, some of the older girls are taught dress making.

341. Dress Caps and Head Dresses.

The making of ladies' dress caps is an extensive and important branch of
business. The rates at which they are now put together, enable most ladies
to buy them already made. In large cities there are separate establishments
for the sale of them, but in smaller towns they are sold at milliner shops.
Much taste should be, and generally is, exercised in this department of
business. In London, on the streets, the caps and bonnets exposed for sale
are placed in inverted umbrellas. On summing up what was told me by
eight manufacturers of dress caps and head dresses, I find the prices they
pay the women who sew for them, run from $2 a week to $10—the average
$4. Some pay by the week, but most by the piece, which is usually most
profitable to the worker, and most satisfactory to both parties. Superior
hands prefer to work by the piece, and, when working for first-class stores,
earn from $6 to $8 per week. There is a scarcity of good hands in New
York, and I would advise some ladies to learn. Taste, and swiftness of
fingers are required. The finer and more delicate the hands of a worker the
better. Some are employed all the year, but the majority are not. The busy
season begins in January and lasts till the middle of May, and begins in
September and lasts till the middle of October, when city work usually

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commences. Some houses, in the intervals, make up for the city trade. The
South has depended almost entirely on the North for the supply of these
articles. There will be openings in the South for establishments of the kind.
One keeper of a large fancy store said to me, there are not more than ten
first-class makers of dress caps in New York. He thought the Irish succeed,
many of whom learn in the convents of their own country to use the needle
well. Hands employed by the week usually work ten hours a day. Most
people prefer to employ the hands they have had. The best place for
learning is in a shop confined to the city trade. Mrs. D. devotes herself to
making up caps for the dead, but employs sewers to make ladies' dress caps.
It requires time to get to making them tastefully and rapidly. An
experienced hand can earn from $4 to $6 a week, piecework. It is thought
three months' time is necessary for learning, and during that time a girl
cannot earn over $1 a week. Mrs. D. says some can earn but eight or nine
cents a day while learning, and become discouraged and give it up. She will
not trust any but experienced hands, on account of the loss of materials, for
when badly cut, they cannot be altered into anything else, and, when they
have to be ripped, lose their stiffening, and are only fit for the scrap bag.
They can soon judge of hands by their appearance, the way they sew, and
knowing for whom they have worked, and the kind of work that house turns
out. They always require reference or deposit. They keep their hands all the
year, making caps part of the year to send away, and the remainder of the
year for city trade. Ladies' dress caps have been superseded to a great extent
by fancy head dresses and flowers. Miss C., Broadway, told me her best
hands earn, by the piece, from $6 to $7 per week. It requires three months
to learn the business. Learners, that have some knowledge of sewing,
receive from her $1 a week. Judgment, in size, form, and manner of putting
together, is desirable. The busy seasons are spring and fall. There is rather a
deficiency of good hands in New York, and in busy seasons it is sometimes
difficult to get enough of indifferent hands. The French are very successful,
on account of their cultivated taste. I was told that Mme. D. employs two
Austrian girls that invent beautiful styles of head dresses. Mr. D. says the
person that has the taste and ingenuity to invent pleasing styles will receive
a good price. He had to pay $4 a dozen more for a new style of head dresses
imported not long ago from Paris, merely because it was of a new design.
He playfully remarked: "Fancy goods must bring fancy prices." A woman

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that has lived in Paris, and been engaged in the business there, and
accustomed to observing the fashions and inventing them, would receive a
high salary. He pays from $6 to $9 a week, according to qualifications. The
abilities and taste of a person have much to do with the time of learning—
six months are usually given. He pays $3 a week to smart learners. He sells
rather more goods in fall, as ladies are then preparing for balls and parties.
He prefers to have foreigners to work for him, as he is himself a foreigner.
His store girls leave at 6 P. M. Those that board pay $3 a week. In most
stores for the sale of ladies' fancy articles, the ladies in attendance make up
such articles, when not waiting on customers. From a larger establishment,
the superintendent sent me the following report: "Women earn from $4 to
$10 per week, being paid by the piece. It requires from three months to one
year to learn the business. After six weeks, the hands are paid a small trifle.
Women are employed about eight months in the year, but first-class hands
find employment always. In busy seasons the work must be done—so hands
cannot limit themselves to time, but must be employed late and early. The
demand for first-class hands is great, and enough cannot be found. I employ
from one hundred and fifty to two hundred on an average. Most of my
hands are foreigners, and married women that live at home."

342. Fans.

In most ages, and in most countries, the fan has been used as much by
gentlemen as ladies. In Japan, everybody carries a fan. "In M. Duveleroy's
fan establishment—the largest in Paris—each fan, from the commonest to
the most costly, passes through fifteen hands before it is ready for use and
the retailer." The palm-leaf fans, which have been so much in vogue for
years past, are made to some extent in the Eastern States. Fans are
sometimes made of feathers. Peacock, duck, turkey, and those of small birds
are employed. As in other manufactures, the capital required, the risk run,
the want of operatives acquainted with the business, and the comparative
highness of wages have hitherto debarred any one from undertaking the
manufacture of fans extensively in the United States. Taste is necessary for
a fan maker. A man that has been making fans for two years in New York,
told me he took it up from repairing fans. He cannot keep materials enough

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on hand, because suitable feathers are high and difficult to get. He is raising
some peacocks and white turkeys, that he may have the feathers for making
fans. The women he employed last year he paid by the piece, and they
earned from $5 to $6 per week. He will employ more women in the course
of a year or two.

343. Ladies' Under-Wear.

A sempstress in New York can seldom earn more than seventy-five cents a
day—fifty is the more usual sum. At Mrs. C. & Co.'s, all the work is done
by hand. They employ by the week and by the piece. They will not allow
goods to be taken out unless they know the person to be reliable, because
they find it difficult to get work back at the time promised. They sell most
articles made up, about Christmas, and in the spring. People do not have
half so much sewing done out as they used to, because so many own sewing
machines, and they are not willing to pay the same prices that they formerly
did. Some women that live and dress well in New York, take in sewing to
obtain pinmoney. She mentioned one lady that came dressed in her elegant
furs and point lace, and got sewing, she said, for a sick young friend; but
when she came back, she said the friend was not able to do it, and so she
did it herself, and would like to have more. She lived in style
on —— street. The cutters of under-wear, who are competent and
responsible, can earn $6 per week, and even more, but it requires
considerable experience. A lady that has sewing done told me that nothing
pays so poorly as white work. She requires a sample of work and a deposit
from any one that takes sewing out, to the amount of the value of the article.
A lady that has most beautiful under-wear made up for ladies in New York
and in the South, told me her Southern orders have all ceased. Her work is
mostly done by hand. She has a forewoman that bastes and cuts. She has
not less than ten or twelve applicants every day for work. Some of her
hands earn $5 or $6 a week, and others work just as long and do not earn
$3. Some of her workers can earn $4 by embroidering, but sewing generally
pays best. She pays her operator by the piece—so much a yard. When she
had Southern orders, she sent goods by express, and the express collected
the money on the goods. If the money was not paid by those who had

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ordered the goods, the express would not deliver them, but returned them.
They were responsible for their return, in case they were not paid for. In the
first place, something was paid for transmitting and collecting; in the latter,
for transmitting both ways. Many ladies used to send their measures and
directions, and she would make up accordingly. She finds bridal apparel
most profitable. In large cities there is a small demand for the costume of
artists, sea bathers, and practisers of gymnastics. At the Employment
House, B., I was told they have more applications than they can attend to,
for plain sewing; but fine sewing it is more difficult to get done. Fine
sewing pays for itself very well, but coarse does not. At L. & T.'s, New
York, they have every branch done, and pay sewers by hand as good prices
as operators. A right neat and fast sempstress can earn $6 a week: it is
piecework. Operators can earn $5 or $6. Part of the work is done in the
building, and part is given out. At first they found it difficult to get superior
sewers, but they have plenty now. They have sometimes employed 375
hands. About half their women are Americans. It is usual for the forewoman
to do the cutting, and she can earn from $6 to $12. When they pay by the
week, the girls work from 8 A. M. to 6 P. M., and have three fourths of an
hour at noon. They pay by the week for making mantillas and cloaks. It is
most profitable to the employées to pay by the piece. Their customers can
rely on their work, and are willing to pay a good price for hand sewing. A
lady that supplies under-wear told me that she finds it difficult to obtain any
one that is reliable to give her work to—one that she can be sure will do her
work well at the proper time. She pays those that work in the house $3 a
week, of ten hours a day. Neatness, care, and expedition, she requires of her
hands. There is an abundance of indifferent hands, but a scarcity of superior
ones.

344. Over Gaiters.

R., Philadelphia, employs fifty girls. Some of the gaiters are made by
sewing machines, and some are stitched by hand. Makers earn from $3 to
$5 a week. Most of the work is done in the establishment—some is taken
out.

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345. Patterns.

In large cities there is a constant call for a supply of new patterns;
consequently stores are kept for the purpose of cutting and selling them. A
dress and cloak making establishment is frequently connected with them.
The sale of patterns to dress and cloak makers in the South and West is
considerable—greater, perhaps, than that in the city. T., and Mme. D., are
the leaders of this branch in New York. Mme. D. has in pattern making
mostly young girls. A large room of young girls requires but two or three
ladies to assist and direct. It takes but little time to learn. She does not pay
until they have learned, and then pays young girls $1 a week and upward.
T., son of the editor of the Bon Ton, told me their fashion magazines have a
circulation of three thousand, mostly among milliners and dress makers.
The plates are colored in Paris. Leslie's and Godey's plates are colored in
this country. T.'s takes six French publications devoted to the fashions. They
look over plates and select such styles as they think will be popular. They
have a lady in Paris who writes to them from there, describing the fashions.
They employ a lady in connection with their pattern making who, by
looking at the plates, is able to cut out a mantle, sleeve, &c., exactly like the
plates. Some ladies could never learn to do so. They employ ladies, both in
pattern cutting and dress making, and pay from $3 to $5 per week—to a
competent forewoman, $10 and $15. Women are paid small wages while
learning. Their business is advancing—has advanced most during the last
few years. Their trade is Eastern, Western, and Southern—mostly Southern.
Their girls are employed from 8 A. M. to 6 P. M.; having an hour at noon.
In the pattern business, there are just about enough of hands in New York.
Spring and fall are the busy seasons. E. G. says the busy season commences
the middle of January, when she is willing to receive learners. She gives
instruction for nothing for one month; after that, she pays $2.50 a week, if
successful, and continues to increase salary according to the abilities of the
individual. A good hand can earn $5 per week, working ten hours a day.
Another lady told me that in pattern making she gives instruction two
months, paying nothing, but then they can earn $2.50, and, as they become
more expert, can earn $3, $3.50, and $4. They are paid by the week, and it
would be impossible to pay by the piece. It requires practice to become an
expert cutter. She prefers, for pattern cutting, young girls from twelve to

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fifteen years old. In large cities, some women go around to cut patterns, sell
stays, embroidery, &c.

346. Shoes.

The business of making and selling shoes opens a wide field of employment
to women. The fashion, a few years back, of ladies making their own shoes,
raged like a fever. Those that had leisure did so with economy, as the lasts
and implements for working cost only $3, and the materials for a pair of
shoes from sixty cents to $1. Afterward no further expense was needed but
the materials. The fitting of shoes is basting, stitching, and putting them
together. Fitting is generally done by females, and is so simple that children
can work at it. A good deal of this work is done in families at the East.
Crimping and bottoming are done altogether by men. Some firms in cities
confine themselves to importing and dealing in shoe-manufacturers' tools,
materials, &c. In Massachusetts, most of the shoes are made in country
towns, where living is much cheaper than in the cities; and the business in
cities is very much absorbed by foreigners, that can live much cheaper than
Americans. The principal defect in ready-made shoes is their imperfect
shape. It would be well for every adult to have a last made the exact shape
of his or her foot, and keep it at the shoemaker's. "The application of
machinery to the manufacture of shoes has made so vast a difference in the
ease and rapidity of their production that those engaged in the business can
scarcely realize the advantage they possess, and before they are aware of it
they are in the way of creating a surplus. The effect of this change in their
production will be to lessen the number of manufacturers and operatives."
Says a writer in the Pennsylvania Inquirer: "Individuals that are prominent
in the shoe business assert that about 2,000 females are employed in
Philadelphia in binding shoes or sewing uppers; but they do not obtain
steady work, and the average of their wages is only $75 to $100 per
annum." Four thousand two hundred men are employed in Philadelphia in
making women's shoes. Might not a large part of that work be done by
women? Yes; the cutting, binding, stitching—indeed, the entire making of
ladies' shoes might be done by women. Most of the stitching is now done
by machines. The most depressed trades in New York, in 1845, were those

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of shoe and shirt making. From the New York Tribune of May, 1853, we
take the subjoined extract: "The binding of children's shoes is paid for at the
rate of two pairs for three cents, or eighteen cents a dozen pair; while for
the full size, five cents a pair. Now a first-rate hand may succeed, by the
closest application—say from fourteen to seventeen hours a day, if
uninterrupted by domestic cares—in making, during the week, four dozen
pairs, for which, after delivery and approval, she will be paid $2.40, that
being the maximum paid, and representing the value of not less than eighty
hours' labor; and from this miserable dole the cost of light and fire is to be
deducted. We are not prepared to say this sum is never exceeded, as some
houses may pay a slight advance on these prices; but it is more than
sufficient for us to know that this is above the average that hundreds of
women and girls in this city (New York) are earning from that source." We
have seen it stated, elsewhere, that good shoebinders, in New York, usually
earn from $4 to $7 a week. I talked with a shoe fitter in New York, who
works for a large and fashionable store and employs a number of hands.
Some of her operators have $6 a week, and have better wages than hand
workers, because they can do more work in the same time. As sewing
machines become cheaper, wages for work done by them will fall.
Shoemakers made more money before ladies wore heels on their shoes, as
they wore out more. Mrs. I., a shoe fitter, told me that she pays one of her
hands $7, another $6, and none less than $4. It requires about six months for
most women to learn the trade. The business is one that will extend. Spring
and fall are the best seasons for work. Her hands usually spend but nine
hours a day at labor, as stitching shoes is heavy work. Men usually do the
cutting in the back of the store, and receive better wages than the women.
The cutting is done by hand. Her workers pay $2.50 for board. There is a
scarcity of good operators on uppers. Plenty of indifferent hands can be had
at any time. She says American women are too fond of pleasure and dress.
They make money, and then must have a day or two to rest. She was an
Irish woman. The journeymen shoemakers of New York have an association
for regulating prices and hours of work, and a lady branch was started, but
has become extinct. A shoebinder in Brooklyn told me that he employs a
number of girls, paying his operatives $3, $4, $5, and some even $6 per
week. The machines have taken work from many, and lowered the prices of
those that do it by hand. To make fancy shoes requires taste and judgment.

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The late strikes have given us, through the newspapers, some reliable
information in regard to the starving rates paid for work, and wages have
been somewhat increased by it. I heard a shoemaker say he knew one sewer
that received forty cents for a week's work, stitching sixty pairs of gaiters.
Two cents is what some of the Massachusetts women received for binding a
pair of boots. Yet the consumer must pay as high for boots and shoes as
ever. The reason given is, that leather costs more than formerly—a
statement we are led to doubt when considering the increased facilities for
tanning. An intelligent shoe fitter told me the prices of work were formerly
much higher than now. The work that would formerly have brought fifty
cents is now not paid more than twenty-five cents. Mrs. B. says well-
dressed women sometimes come and bring what they say is a sample of
their work. A few pairs will be given them to make, which they will bring in
poorly stitched. She thinks any one in the shoe-making business that does
her work well can always find employment. "In Ohio, several women are
employed as shoemakers, and others are working independently and
successfully, evincing both taste and ability in their elegant and substantial
work." A manufacturer in Albany, N. Y., writes: "I employ ten women
running sewing machines, binding by hand, and stitching with wax-thread
and awl. I pay mostly by the piece, and my hands earn from $2 to $5 per
week. Women cannot do men's labor in our branch. Learners are paid what
they earn. Mechanical talent is a desirable qualification. The prospect for
extension of the business is necessarily poor. Prison work is interfering
much with our craft. Women can have steady work, if employers manage
prudently. Women that work with awl and wax thread are mostly foreign."
The returns of 1860 give 56,039 males and 24,978 females employed in
making boots and shoes in New England; and in all the States, 96,287 males
and 31,140 females. In Dublin, about five hundred women are employed in
eight of the large establishments of that city in boot closing, and earn on an
average eight shillings per week, of nine hours a day.

347. Stays and Corsets.

At Mrs. B.'s, Philadelphia, I was told women are paid by the dozen for
making corsets, and earn from $2 to $3 a week. They mostly take their work

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home. At a place in New York, I was told they have sewing machines, and
they pay operators $4 a week, working from 7½ A. M. to 7½ P. M. Those
that sew for them by hand do not earn so much. It is difficult to get enough
of good hands; so the lady thought there must be openings for competent
workers. Girls get $4 a week for basting. Their girls are of all nations.
Every store, she remarked, has its own way of doing business. It takes some
time to learn to do all parts, as a girl usually works at some special part. A
man does the cutting. One corset maker thinks it a valuable gift to be able to
fit well. She considers corsets necessary to the preservation of health.
American children, by their restlessness, counteract the effects of their rapid
growth. Miss C. told me those that work for wholesale houses can, if good
hands, find work all the year. They are paid by the piece, and can earn from
$3 to $6. It requires three or four years to learn all parts. Her girls cannot
take their work home. Few are willing to take learners. At another place, I
was told a good operator can get $6 a week. They sell most women corsets
of French and German make. The French fit American ladies nearly as well
as those made to order, but the German do not. At another place, I was told
it requires but a short time to learn. There are but few manufactories in this
country. The imported corsets are mostly sold, because cheapest. The
basters get $3 a week, ten hours a day, and operators $4, and $4.50,
according to abilities. Mrs. B. thinks it difficult to become a good fitter. She
employs men to cut, put bones and eyelets in, and press. Anybody that can
sew well can soon take up corset making. All her sewing is done by hand.
She sends her work to the country, because she can get it done more
cheaply. The work pays poorly. She says the form is retained much longer
by wearing corsets. A lady who employs women to stitch corsets for her by
hand, pays from $2.50 to $3.50 a week—ten working hours a day. It
requires six months to learn, and a just eye, a knowledge of figure, and an
ability to sew by hand and stitch by machine, to succeed. She says most
corset employers in New York are French, and employés Irish. She thought,
if a lady has good apartments in a genteel part of the city, she may do well.
Mrs. B., who has been twenty-three years carrying on the business on
Broadway, says she has applications constantly, but finds it difficult to
obtain competent workmen. Men are practical corset makers, and do the
cutting. They are better able to cut the goods, so as to make a handsome fit.
They receive better wages than women. It is a business as much to be

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learned as cutting gentlemen's coats. She pays both by the piece and week,
and her hands receive from $3 to $8. Some of the stitching is done by
machinery—some by hand. It requires about the same time to learn corset
as dress making. Learners receive from her from $1.50 to $2 per week. She
thinks the supply of hands just equal to the demand. She employs from 100
to 150 hands. They are mostly from Great Britain. The business is
dependent on fashion. Spring and fall are the busy seasons. In summer, she
does not sell so much, because ladies are then out of town; but the employés
can work all the year, and do so, as she keeps a stock on hand. Corsets are
more worn now than a few years back. A manufacturer in Boston writes: "I
employ ten American women in sewing on corsets. They work by the piece,
and average sixty cents per day. The prospect of future employment is not
flattering. Board, $2.25." Another manufacturer in Boston "pays from $3 to
$4.50, and says it is all he can afford to pay. His hands work ten hours a
day. The prospect for this work is good. July and August are the dullest
months. He has found women equal to men in all branches of business they
conduct. Board, $2.50."

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STRAW WORKERS.

348. Bleachers and Pressers.

I called in a place where I saw the pressing of bonnets and children's hats.
The rims of the hats were pressed by a woman with a large iron, the crowns
by a man with an iron attached to a lever fastened in a frame. It is all
piecework, and some can earn from $4 to $5 a week. I have been told that
Mrs. K., New York, employs women pressers. The iron is not so heavy for
bonnet pressing as for hats, but requires too much strength for a woman.
Shaping straw bonnets is done by women—that is, placing them on blocks
and pinning them around the edge, after they have been bleached, until they
acquire shape. A man pressing straw hats, told me he is paid 5 cents a hat,
and can press sixty in ten hours. The time for learning either to sew or
bleach, I find, is usually six weeks. Mrs. M. pays learners nothing for six
weeks. Her busy seasons are from October to last of November, and from
December to spring. It is all piecework, and her girls earn from $3 to $4. A
bleacher of straw hats employs a lady at $5 per week to alter and wire
bonnets, after they have been bleached, which is done by her own family.
She works ten hours a day. The work is mostly confined to spring and fall.
The bleaching process is very deleterious, owing to the sulphur used. It
produces a loss of vitality and shortens life. A stout, healthy man, in the
course of a year, becomes quite pale and thin. The bleaching does not
require all the time of any one. The bonnets and hats are put into the
bleaching room, and, when they have become white, are taken out.

349. Braiders.

The following is from the New York Tribune, of 1845: "The Amazonia
braid weavers—a large and ill-paid class of working females—begin work
at seven in the morning, and continue until seven in the evening, with no
intermission save to swallow a hasty morsel. They earn, when in full

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employment, $2 and $2.50 a week. Out of this, they must pay their board
and washing (for they have no time to wash their own clothes), medical and
other incidental expenses, and purchase their clothes—to say nothing of the
total absence of all healthy recreation, and of all mental and moral culture,
which such a condition necessarily implies. They have, many of them, no
rooms of their own, but board with some poor family, sleeping anyhow, and
anywhere. For these accommodations they pay $1.50 per week, some of the
lowest and filthiest boarding houses charging as low as $1 per week. The
living here must be imagined." At Foxboro', Franklin, Middleboro', and
Nantucket, Mass., are straw manufactories. "In 1855, 6,000,000 straw hats
and bonnets were made in Massachusetts, giving employment to ten
thousand of her people." Rye straw is raised in all the New England States.
It is cut, soaked in water (I think split), and then dried. It is sold by the
pound—then braided by women and children for 10 or 12 cents a day. It is
mostly done in farmers' families, who are at but little expense for living. In
this state, it is mostly sold to merchants or agents, who sell it at
manufactories, where it is trimmed by machinery, and then sewed. It is then
shaped into bonnets, wired, pressed, and bleached, the crowns are lined
with paper, and they are packed ready for exportation. The women earn on
an average $5 a week. In England, wheat straw is raised, which is inferior to
rye straw. N. says the largest straw-bonnet establishments of England are
not as large as those of the United States. For making straw hats in
Philadelphia, men receive $7.50 a week, and women $4.50. Philadelphia is
said to spend $6,000,000 annually in the manufacture of straw goods. At
H.'s, New York, they employ from fifty to one hundred hands. It is usual to
have learners six weeks for nothing, and then pay full wages, if they prove
competent. Work is given about ten months. They are paid by the piece, and
can earn from $4 to $6 per week. In December, they begin to make up hats
and bonnets for spring. A milliner told me she pays her braiders by the yard.
Some earn $4 a week, and some even $5. They work at home. The summer
season is over by September. H. writes: "In my opinion the best arranged
industrial establishment is the Union Straw Works at Foxboro', Mass. High
wages, cushioned arm-chairs, a literary society which carries on the lyceum
lectures of the town, are all far above any of our factories. The proprietor
would not call it a factory, to make it more attractive. Out of three hundred
operatives, sometimes, seventy-five have been teachers."

Page 434

350. Sewers.

Mrs. K. employs about seventy-five girls for bleaching and sewing braid
and straw bonnets. She pays some $3, some $3.50, and some $4 a week.
They work ten hours. All live at home, but bring their dinners. She bleaches
by the old-fashioned process with sulphur, and has men to do the pressing.
N. & Co. employ about one hundred and twenty-five on an average six
months, and about twenty-five all the year. The bonnet business has
increased very much during the last few years. At B.'s, I was told the
wholesale work for the South begins in November; but the city work, the
last of March, and continues to July. It is light work, and does not require
close application of the eyes. Machinery can never be used for sewing
straw, because long stitches answer, and straw is too brittle. Persons of a
nervous temperament are often the most intellectual. Such females make
good straw sewers. It requires a peculiar adaptability, as every other
occupation does. Everybody cannot learn to sing or to paint—just so some
cannot make good straw sewers. He thinks most young workpeople in New
York do not live at home, and considers obedience to parents and
observance of the Sabbath the foundation of success in life. B—s, of
Connecticut, write: "Women are employed in this country, and in Italy,
France, and England, in sewing straw. Our girls (150) are mostly paid by
the piece, and earn from $3 to $7 per week. They also trim straw hats. They
spend four weeks as learners, and are paid $2 a week while learning. To be
a fast sewer is the most important requisite. The prospect of a continuance
of this work is good. The busy season is from September to June. The best
locations are near New York and Boston." "About 200 persons are
employed in the straw factory at Nantucket. Some of the operatives are
daughters of the leading men of the town, and make $5 a week at the
business." A firm at Middleboro', Mass., write: "We employ 850 women,
and have them in preference to men, because they are more dexterous with
the needle. They receive from 30 cents to $1.62 per day, and are paid
mostly by the piece. Women are paid five eighths what the men receive, but
could not perform their labor even at the same price. Learners make enough
to pay their board the first three weeks. Good mechanical talent is needed in
a learner. They have work about nine months in the year—generally stop
July, August, and November. Nine tenths are Americans; seven eighths live

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at home. A large number of them are not dependent upon labor for a living.
Board, $2 to $2.25." From a factory in Wrentham, Mass., we have the
following report: "We employ during the winter season, in the factory, from
seventy-five to one hundred females, and in families who work at home
about six hundred, whose pay is not so good by about one third. Some of
our workers are paid by the piece—some by the hour. Most of them can
earn $1 a day, twelve hours being a day for females. Men are paid 15 cents
an hour; good help extra, and poor, less. They work ten hours. For the part
done by women, we pay the same price from the first, but their work is not
received until it is well done. A person is employed to give them
instruction; five or six weeks' practice mostly makes a good sewer of one
who can learn at all. During this time most girls earn half wages. To good
help we usually give work nine months in the year. Busy seasons from
December 1st till June 1st, and from July 15th to October 1st. The rest of
the year, work is given out at reduced prices—sufficient to earn about half
wages. All American women. It is desirable for manufacturers to be near
New York city, so as to keep posted on styles. Many ladies choose this
business after teaching school for years. Most of our hands come from
Maine, and board in houses provided for them, paying $2 a week." Another
straw manufacturer informs me "the girls in straw shops earn more than in
most other kinds of business, they being, as a general thing, smarter girls,
and such as would not work in cotton and other large mills. Their work
varies much, as the styles and materials change." A firm employing about
eighty American girls write: "They are paid according to their skill and
smartness, from $2.50 to $10 per week. Two thirds work by the piece—half
will earn $5 to $6.50—average about $4.50 per week. Male labor will
average double. It cannot be done by females—they are not strong enough.
The reason of women's being paid low wages is the surplus of female labor.
They cannot be hired to do housework—it is too confining. It requires one
month, more or less, according to taste and genius, to learn the work. Good
references as to character are required, and some skill with the needle, and
an idea of form. Busy from December to June, and from August to
November. We do nothing for about three months. Hands hired by the week
are paid extra for overwork. If we could not give them the amount of work
they have, the best help would go elsewhere. There is always plenty of help
in this branch in New York, and they get work done for much less, but by a

Page 436

different caste of girls. In the New England States, girls are generally
brought up to work, whether rich or poor, and we can get help from the best
families, well educated and intelligent—while in some States we could not
find them. Board, $2.25 to $2.50." A straw firm in Franklin, Mass., write:
"We employ about 400 females—60 of them in our manufactory—the
remainder work at their homes. The former have the privilege of working
from 6 A. M. to 9 P. M.; but as they work by the piece, they are not
confined to any particular time. The latter accommodate themselves. Few
get less than 80 cents per diem, and many can earn over $1—some over
$1.50. All are paid by the piece, except overseers. Males and females are
never employed in the same kind of labor. Females make and trim bonnets
and hats—males bleach, block, and press them, which is too laborious work
for females. Some years would be required to learn to conduct the straw
business successfully. Some females will make a very good bonnet or hat
after a few weeks' practice. Others take a longer time, and a few will never
make a good bonnet. Our practice is to pay all while learning. The
qualifications required by us are a good character, good health, skill in the
use of the needle, and a desire to acquire proficiency. The supply of hands is
always greater than the demand. All the females employed in straw
factories are American. Our girls have access to a good library, lectures, &c.
Those employed in manufacturing board at $2.25 per week, including
washing. Boarding houses attached to the different straw manufactories in
this town are of good character and comfortable."

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RENOVATORS.

351. Gentlemen's Wear.

A dyer and scourer of gentlemen's clothing told me she charges 37 cents for
scouring and pressing a pair of pantaloons; 75 cents for a coat, and $1 for
an overcoat. A woman could make a comfortable living at it if she had
constant employment.

352. Ladies' Wear.

The cleaning of kid gloves saves quite an item in the purses of the wearers.
Wooden frames, the shape and size of gloves, are used for drying them on.
The renovating of silk shawls, dresses, and other goods is best done by the
French. They are sometimes made to look almost as bright and clean as if
they were new. Woollen goods, too, that will not bear washing, are
beautifully cleaned by those that rightly understand the business. All that
profess to, by the way, do not. Prices vary, of course, according to goods,
places, and renovators. Women are mostly engaged in this business. A
cleaner of kid gloves writes: "I employ some women with pens and needles
at $3 per week, working from four to six hours per day. Cool weather is the
best for work, but they are employed all the year." Mrs. C. told me that her
husband and his men clean most gloves in winter; they can clean them in
two days. I noticed they are free from any offensive odor. They pass
through the hands several times. She charges individuals 12½ cents a pair—
storekeepers less. She has been many years at it. They used to send a wagon
and collect them from the stores, but their business does not warrant it now
—so they send a messenger. As many have attempted that do not
thoroughly understand it, the business has been injured.

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GENTLEMEN'S CLOTHING.

353. Army and Navy Uniform.

Our Government might do something toward bringing about a reform in the
prices paid women. If those who have clothing made for the men of the
army and navy would pay good prices to men of standing, that pay their
workwomen well, we think some good might be done. At any rate, they
would set a good example.

354. Buttons.

The making of buttons is chiefly done by women, and affords employment
for a great many. The proportion of women to men in this branch of
industry is six to one. Some kinds of buttons are made by hand, but most by
machinery, moved by steam. The manufacture of cloth for buttons is a
distinct branch of business. It was estimated in 1851 that five thousand
persons were employed in Birmingham in the manufacture of buttons of
different kinds, more than half of whom were women and children. In the
manufacture of buttons a variety of hands are employed—piercers, cutters,
stampers, gilders, and varnishers. "In a factory employing five men and
thirty females, from six to seven hundred gross of buttons can be turned out
daily." I called in a factory where buttons were made of vegetable ivory. I
think all the work could be done by women, but it is a trade, and requires
three years to learn all the parts. One man might be needed to put the
machinery in order when it would get out of repair. Boys that polish buttons
are paid from $2 to $3 a week. Polishing looks simple, but, no doubt,
requires practice. A little girl, whose father makes common horn buttons,
says he employs some small girls who, by presses, cut out the buttons and
make the perforations. They are paid seven cents for a thousand. Her
parents assort them. H. & C., manufacturers of cloth and gilt buttons, say it
requires some weeks to learn to chase the gilt buttons, which are done with

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small metal tools and a hammer. Chasers are paid by the piece, working ten
hours a day, and some can earn $1 a day. Those that make cloth buttons
work by the week, eleven hours a day. They pay nothing while the person is
learning. They think the prospect of employment in that branch is good. (I
think it must be, for it is a manufacture likely to extend.) They employ their
hands all the year. The girls sit while at work. S. has girls to do most of the
work in making men's coat buttons. They cut out the iron and cloth with
machines, and also cover the buttons with machines. The girls require but a
few weeks to learn. They are paid from $1.75 to $3 a week. Some of the
girls are not more than twelve years of age. The average of the oldest girls
is $2.75. They work ten hours. Learners are paid half wages. Good eyesight
and smart fingers are needed. The gilding of brass buttons is called water
gilding, though no water is used. The mercury and nitric acid used in
gilding metal buttons renders the business pernicious to the health, the
fumes of the nitric acid affecting the lungs, and the mercury producing its
peculiar disease. A manufacturer of tin buttons writes: "Our women earn
from 75 cents to $1 per day, and are paid by the piece. It requires but little
practice to learn. All are American girls from neighboring families." A
manufacturer in Middlefield, Conn., writes: "We employ from twenty-five
to thirty girls in cutting, drilling, sorting, and packing buttons. They work
by the piece, and average $15 per month. While learning they are paid $1
per week, and their board. They have regular work, and pay for board $1.50
per week. The prospect for an increase of the manufacture is fair." A button
company in Waterbury write: "Our hands receive $3 and upward, as they
are worth. The business is good when times are good. The majority are
Americans. Spring and fall are the best seasons." A buttonmaker in
Morrisville, Pa., writes: "We pay our girls by the gross, and they earn from
$1 to $4 per week. Men earn from $3 to $9. The women's work is lighter.
Beginners are paid small wages. The prospect of future work is poor.
Seasons make no difference in the work."

355. Canes.

Walking canes could be painted and varnished by women. I have been told
that, in France, women are employed in making ivory, gold, whalebone, and

Page 440

wire heads for canes. Mrs. F. makes whalebone heads for canes. She offered
to teach me how for $20. P. says he pays from $6 to $100 a dozen for the
heads of canes—ivory, silver, and gold. The work is mostly done by
Germans. The business will not pay except in large cities. There are only six
in the business in New York, which is the main depot. He sells most to
Southerners and Canadians. The business requires a regular apprenticeship.
Making and putting on the heads could be done by women, if they were
instructed, but there would not be enough of it to justify more than a few in
learning. The South offers the best opening.

356. Caps.

Cap makers receive very different prices for their work, depending on the
quality of the material and work, and the house for which the work is done.
There are between eight hundred and one thousand cap makers in
Philadelphia. They are said to average $3 a week. Freedley says: "In
Philadelphia, there are a large number of concerns occupied exclusively in
making caps; those of cloth constituting the chief part of the business,
though plush, silk, glazed, and other caps are also made. The cap
manufacture employs a large number of females, whose wages in the
business will average about $4 per week. Sewing machines are largely
employed; being, in fact, indispensable in consequence of the expansion of
the trade. The annual production is about $400,000." A few years ago there
were five thousand cap makers in New York city. Many of the cheap caps in
New York are furnished by Jews, who get them done very cheaply. They not
only do much to supply the home demand for caps, but export large
quantities. They sell some caps for from $1 to $1.50 a dozen. B. pays his
cap makers, some $5, some $6 a week. When business is dull the work is
divided, so that all hands are retained, and have something to do. Caps are
mostly made by German men on sewing machines. Some Germans take
fifty or sixty dozen a week from a store, and employ girls to make them up.
They are middlemen, and cut out the goods. In New York, almost every
branch of business seems to have its own locality—that of the hat and cap
manufacturers is on the lower part of Broadway. A good hand can earn
about $3.50 a week of 10 hours a day, or by working fifteen or sixteen

Page 441

hours, which many of them do, can earn $8 or $9. Working girls generally
receive about $3 a week. They pay $2 for board. The remaining $1 is almost
consumed in shoes. Nearly all are at times out of employment. In New
York, by constant labor, fifteen or sixteen hours a day, some cap makers can
earn only from fourteen to twenty-five cents. "We were told by an old lady
who has lived by this kind of work a long time, that when she begins at
sunrise, and works till midnight, she can earn fourteen cents a day. A large
majority of these women are American born, from the great middle class of
life, many of whom have once been in comfortable, and even affluent
circumstances, and have been reduced by the death or bankruptcy of
husbands and relatives, and other causes, to such straits. Many of them are
the wives of shipmasters, and other officers of vessels. Others are the
widows of mechanics and poor men, and have children, and mothers and
fathers, &c., to support by their needle. Many have drunken husbands to
add to their burdens and afflictions, and to darken every faint gleam of
sunshine that domestic affection throws even into the humblest abode.
Others have sick and bedridden husbands or children, or perhaps have to
endure the agony of receiving home a fallen daughter, or an outlawed son,
suddenly checked in his career of vice." S., of S. & Co., told me they take
learners when they can make good use of them. The business, some time
back, in New York, was over done, but for the last three or four years the
supply has not more than met the demand. It is piecework. A first-class
hand can, in busy seasons, make $10, but many are not swift with the
needle, and cannot earn more than $3 a week. They give out some of their
work. All that can be, he has done by machines. R. & H. have their caps
made by machines. It is piecework, and a good hand can earn from $6 to $9
a week. In a cloth and fancy cap store, I was told the girls earn $4, $5, and
$6 a week. Few people are willing to take learners, as the season, six weeks,
is nearly consumed by the time the trade is learned, and the instructor gets
nothing for his time and trouble. Children's fancy caps cannot be made by
machine. They are usually piecework. To make them requires taste. Six
weeks is the length of time usually given to learning the trade. A.'s caps are
made by machines. Good hands earn $5, $6, and $7. His hands are busy
only in spring. He takes learners at that time, and pays from the first, $2 or
$3 a week. D., formerly a cap maker, told me that P—s have some of their
caps made on Blackwell's Island, by the convicts. B. told me the greater

Page 442

part of the cap is made by sewing machines tended by men, but the
finishing, lining, &c., is done by women, either at home or on the premises.
They are paid by the dozen, and can earn from $5 to $6 a week. Some have
received even more, but as the work was taken home, it cannot be known
with certainty that one person did it all. The first year they work at caps of
an inferior quality, for which they receive fifty cents a dozen; girls of
average ability, can then take the better kind of cap, and of course the wages
increase according to the degree of proficiency. A cap maker told me, good
hands can have steady work all the year. The best season for work is when
manufacturing for the fall trade, which is generally in the months of June,
July, August, September, and part of October, and, for the spring trade, in
March and April. Another told me he pays by the dozen, and his hands earn
from $4 to $7 a week. A maker of cap fronts, New York, told me he pays his
girls from $3 to $7, working ten hours a day. From July to November are
the best seasons—May and June the poorest months. Cutting out is done by
hand, and requires too much strength for women. Some men cut out fifty
dozen caps a day. It is done with a knife of a peculiar shape, and several
thicknesses of the cloth are out at once. Women are not so employed where
the business is done on a large scale. Some cutters earn $24 a week. A cutter
should have taste and skill, as he is also expected to design patterns. The
English style for caps is sometimes adopted, and the most of gentlemen's
clothing is of the English style, in New York; but the ladies prefer French
fashions for themselves. An extensive manufacturer of cap fronts and other
trimmings, in New York, writes: "I have about twenty-five females
employed, the majority of whom sew at home. The occupation is perfectly
healthy, easy, and comfortable. I pay by the piece, and the workers earn
from $3 to $6 per week. Any woman that can sew and has ordinary
intelligence can learn it in three hours. There is no prospect for increase, but
constant employment for those already engaged. Spring and fall are the
busy seasons, but employment is given all the year. I can always get ten
times the help I require in this branch: four or five years ago we paid much
better wages, but competition regulates (unfortunately) the scale of wages.
Experience tells me women are inferior to men employées, in regard to
promptness in coming to the shop, and in having the articles completed at
stated times, when required for shipment. But I find them superior to men in
refinement, temperance, decorum, attachment to the interest of their

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employers, &c., when unmixed with the male sex. I formerly employed
women on sewing machines, and when first started in that branch, they
made from $8 to $10 per week, although, since the last three years, goods
are sold so much cheaper, as to reduce the wages from $5 to $8." In Detroit,
Mich., cap makers get from five to twenty-three cents a cap for making, and
can earn from $2 to $4 per week.

357. Coats.

We were told by one that ought to know, that many of the gentlemen's coats
seen on Broadway are made by women. We believe that women of
intelligence and judgment, if properly instructed, could make the greater
part, if not the whole of gentlemen's coats. Much of the tailors' work of
New York is distributed through the country, because it can be made
cheaper. Many men make it a business, as agents, to distribute, collect, and
pay for such work. Men press seams and sew the heaviest cloth, because
they have more strength. What magnificent buildings there are in New York
devoted to the sale of gentlemen's wear! But to think they are made of the
sinews and muscles and tears and sighs of hard-working women, and to see
the clerks in the stores, with nothing to do but receive and wait on
customers, while those poor girls on the fifth floor are toiling from early
morn to dark to earn less than one half of those clerks! What a hard life
most women lead!

358. Cravats.

W. & D. usually employ fifty hands. Part of the work is done in the store,
on the fourth and fifth floors. Cravats pay well, and a good hand can earn
from $6 to $18 a week, piecework. Most of their work is done by machine
and finished by hand. Those of their hands who take work home, do it when
not occupied with home duties. The gentleman with whom I talked, thought
a person would not be able to support herself by that kind of work alone.
They have been able to keep their hands all the year. Another cravat maker
told me he has employed hands all the year, and had most of his cravats
made by machines. A great many have been made in Baltimore. M. & Co.

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give some work out and have some done at the store. They are most busy in
spring and fall, but keep some hands all the year. They can always get
plenty of hands. They take learners, and pay from the first, but not so much,
of course. Week workers earn from $4 to $5—ten hours a day in summer,
rather less in winter. Those that work by the piece can earn from $8 to $9,
for they work faster at home and sew in the evenings. Part of their work is
done by machine and part by hand. They usually import the material. Most
of this work is confined to New York, and has been a separate branch but a
few years. In Detroit, girls earn from $2.50 to $3.50 a week making cravats.

359. Hats.

We will give an extract from "The Art and Industry of the Crystal Palace":
"In the manufacture of hats in the United States, there are twenty-four
thousand persons employed: one half of them are men, and the remainder
women. The consumption of straw hats amounts to about $1,500,000, about
half of which are imported. The capital invested in the hatting trade in this
country is little short of $8,000,000. The number of trimmers in New York
are four hundred. There is no branch of industry in which the rate of wages
is so fluctuating; no trade reflecting so faithfully the depressed or
prosperous condition of the country. There are between fifty and sixty
finishing shops in New York. There is no general understanding between
the shops as to a fixed rate of payment. It is a peculiarity of the trade, that a
person seeking employment never addresses himself to the principal; he
goes direct to the foreman." Silk and felt hats are most worn in the United
States. We find there is great objection by the workmen to the use of
machinery. Some factories confine their work exclusively to the making of
hat bodies. The manufacture of hatters' trimmings forms, in large cities, a
distinct branch of business. "In C.'s hat manufactory, in London, fifteen
hundred hands are employed, two hundred of whom are females. Among
the processes by which a beaver hat is produced, women and girls are there
employed in the following: Plucking the beaver skins; cropping off the fur;
sorting various kinds of wool; plucking and cutting rabbits' wool; shearing
the nap of the blocked hat (in some instances); picking out defective fibres
of fur; and trimming." Women in our country could be employed in bowing

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the fur, pressing it with a hatter's basket, folding it in a damp cloth, rolling,
rubbing, working it with the hands, and dipping it in hot water. The last
operation is a very warm one. As it is, we know of no department in which
they are employed, except that of carding, binding, lining, trimming, and tip
gilding. Binding and lining are much done by them. The work is light,
genteel, and rather profitable, and can be done at home. When done in
factories, the workers cannot be so neat, on account of the dust, the large
number of operatives in a room, and the coloring matter that rubs off the
hats. All employers have reported it healthy, and I suppose it is as much so
as any sedentary occupation, unless from causes mentioned in the preceding
sentence. A hatter in Philadelphia told us he employs girls to line and bind
men's hats. They are paid 75 cents a dozen for felt hats, and $1.25 for silk
hats. Girls can earn as much as $6 a week at it. It requires a couple of
months' apprenticeship. There is work for steady hands all the year. We
have seen it stated that "hat trimmers in Philadelphia average $3.50 per
week. They number from eight hundred to one thousand females. Hat
binders usually spend six weeks learning their trade." The war department,
about two years ago, closed a contract with S., of Philadelphia, to furnish
sixteen thousand felt hats for the army, at $2.75 each. They make all
qualities of hats at P.'s, Brooklyn, from those at 75 cents a dozen to those at
$50 a dozen. The linings of the cheapest felt hats are put in by machines
operated on by steam, the others by hand. I saw girls also laying gold leaf
on muslin, which was stamped by a machine, forming the ornamental work
and figures seen in the crown lining of cheap hats. These workers were
called tip gilders. All except the box makers and tip gilders sit while at
work. Girls at lining and binding can earn from $2.50 to $7. (I think he set
his last mark high.) It is piecework, as everything, I believe, in that line is.
Some girls have worked in P.'s factory eight years or more. The business is
learned in a short time. Operators are paid at the same rate as hand sewers;
but if any difference is made, it is in favor of operators. For hand workers,
care and ability to sew well are the principal requisites. The hands have
work all the year, but in midsummer and midwinter may do only three
fourths of the usual quantity for a week or two. Hatters who manufacture in
Brooklyn and sell in New York, told me they employ five hundred women,
who are paid by the piece. Those that sew receive from $5 to $6, machine
operatives from $8 to $9. A knowledge of sewing and taste, in finishing

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hats, is desirable. The business will extend. Three times as many hats are
sold as fifteen years ago. Some parts of hat making are performed by
machinery that could not be managed by women. The West and Northwest
of the United States present good openings for this business. Manufactories,
of course, must be where there is plenty of water. At a hatter's in New York,
I was told that they pay 14 cents for trimming a hat of any kind, coarse or
fine, silk or felt; but sometimes pay only 10 cents. Their binder often makes
$7 a week. At B.'s, New York, the girls earn from $5 to $7, and are paid by
the piece. They sew in the establishment. Sewing the crowns in and wires
on of plush hats is a distinct business from trimming, yet one in which they
employ some women. It pays rather better than the other part of women's
work, but requires great care and neatness. Sewing the leather linings in
hats is the least profitable part. More women might find employment in hat
work. A lady said to me she has an acquaintance that sometimes earns $2.50
a day at trimming hats. (?) L. employs some girls for trimming in the spring
and fall. It is piecework, and some earn $9 a week. It is sometimes difficult
to get very good hands. There are some factories in the West, but none in
the South. Another hatter told me he pays 12½ cents for trimming a hat. He
has noticed that the swiftest are the best workers. A hatter told me a smart
trimmer could earn from $8 to $10 a week, six months of the year; but not
more than $3 the other six months, because work is slack. A salesman in
D.'s store told me a brisk hand can trim a dozen hats a day. The children's
hats they have trimmed for the wholesale trade are not so neatly and
carefully done as those for the retail trade. In selling a single hat, a
purchaser examines closely, and if there is any defect, condemns it. The
occupation is well filled in New York, and the work requires care, taste, and
expedition. D. has constant employment for his hands; but for four months
they have not as much as the hands wish, yet enough to yield most about
$4. The women work above the store, because the blocks are there. They
are allowed to take home and sew in the evening the linings of those hats
that have the rims faced with leather. The plan is, generally, for a learner to
spend six weeks' apprenticeship with an experienced hand, giving her work
for instruction received. At Sing Sing prison, New York, of the one hundred
and fifty female convicts, a majority are employed in binding hats, at 15
cents a dozen, made by the male convicts. The usual price in St. Louis is
14½ cents a hat. At this rate, a lady can bind and line in a day a number

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amounting to from $1 to $1.25. There are two hat factories in St. Louis, but
they are not enough to supply the demand. A firm in Danbury write us, they
"employ from seventy-five to one hundred women trimming hats. They pay
by the piece, and their hands average $5 per week. Males average $9 a
week. By the rules of trade, males spend four years learning; females, five
weeks. Women are not paid while learning. The prospect for a continuance
of the business is good. The busy seasons are from July 1st to April 1st.
Time of work does not exceed ten hours. The majority are Americans. There
are advantages in being near the great centre of trade in this country, New
York. Board, $2." A firm manufacturing wool hats in the same place—
Danbury—write they "employ ten Irish women in a card room, and sixty
Yankee girls in trimming hats. The first receive $3 per week, the others
$5.50. Women in the card room work ten hours. The American girls are
intelligent and pretty." Another wool-hat manufacturer in Connecticut
writes: "My women earn $1 each per day, on an average. It takes male
operatives two years to learn. Work, on an average, ten months in the year.
Board, $2." A firm in Milford, Conn., write: "Women earn from $3 to $7
per week. The reason why women are not better paid, is because the supply
is greater than the demand. The employment will last as long as people
wear hats. Fall and winter are the best seasons for work. The nearer you get
to the market, the better the location." In reply to a letter, a firm employing
from sixty to eighty women give the following intelligence: "The females
employed by us are generally from fourteen to twenty-one years of age.
They are paid by the piece, and earn from $4 to $9 per week. The labor of
women is entirely distinct from that of men. It takes a good needlewoman
about two months to become proficient. Women give their labor to the
person who instructs them, from two to eight weeks. The business is good
six or eight months. The rest of the year, they average about one half of
what they can do. Busy times are from January 1st to May 1st, and from
July 1st to November 1st. The demand is about equal to the supply, except
in very busy times, when we could employ more; but I think there are
plenty, as an increased supply would tend to lower prices. Most of our
women are foreigners. The proximity to large cities is advantageous to this
business, as the goods are mostly sold in New York, Philadelphia, Boston,
&c. I should say there is little difference between the women employed in
hat manufactories and others who have to earn a livelihood, such as dress

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makers, tailoresses, &c. Board, from $1.75 to $2. There is an objection
amongst boarding-house keepers to females generally, and strangers
frequently have great difficulty in obtaining good board. This is certainly
the fault of their own sex." A wool-hat firm in Yonkers, N. Y., write they
pay by the piece, and workers earn from $5 to $7. Male and female labor do
not compete. A gentleman and his son, in New York, who import and
manufacture children's fancy hats, write me they pay from $5 to $12 a
week, according to ability. Women are paid while learning, the time for
which depends upon capacity and taste. There is regular employment with
them in all months but June and December. Good operatives are always in
demand. Large cities are the best localities.
Hat Braiders, &c. Most hats called "palm leaf" are made of straw grown
in the Northern States. P. & Co., of Boston, write me: "The occupation of
braiding hats is one that employs the odd moments and hours of almost
every Yankee farmer's sons and daughters, throughout Massachusetts and
New Hampshire, from one year's end to the other. We employ women, but
not exclusively, and pay by the piece, from $1 to $1.50 per dozen. A wide-
a-wake Yankee girl or boy, with nimble fingers, will learn in a few hours."
A manufacturer in New Hampshire, employing "from 300 to 400, pays by
the piece, and his workers earn from $6 to $8 per month. They learn
generally when children, by seeing others braid. The future prospect is not
flattering, as the demand for palm-leaf hats is decreasing. The braiders work
at home." $60,000 worth of palm-leaf hats were annually manufactured at
Nashua, N. H., a few years ago. C. told me they never employ women,
except, in winter, to bind and put the oil-silk lining in gentlemen's straw
hats, for the spring trade of the South. For the work they pay 12½ cents a
dozen. A woman can do from six to ten dozen a day. The best workers find
employment. The prospect of obtaining work to those who may learn is
good. B. thinks but few American girls are employed in trimming straw
hats. He pays by the piece, and some earn as much as $5 per week. They
should spend about one month learning, and they do well to earn their board
during that time.

360. Oil Clothing.

Page 449

I was told at L. & Co.'s oil clothing depot, that they have their sewing done
by women at their homes. It is done by machines. They do not require any
deposit. Since the panic, a number of girls and women have come in and
offered to do their work at under prices. The oiling is done after the goods
are made up. The garments are laid on tables, and the oil applied with
brushes. The clothes are then hung on frames to dry, and it requires six
months. Oiling the goods is greasy, dirty work, but might be done by strong
women. The work is not at all unhealthy. L. & Co. sell $150,000 suits a
year. Their best sewers can make up six or eight dozen shirts a week, for
some of which they are paid $1 a dozen, and for others, $1.25. The
manufacture of oiled goods is confined to New York.

361. Pantaloons.

In making pantaloons, as in most other tailor's work, what is most neatly
done commands the best prices. Custom work pays best. Making
pantaloons is not quite so remunerative as making vests. The prices paid in
cities by good-class tailors for making summer pantaloons, runs from 75
cents to $1.25. For winter goods the prices are higher, ranging from $1 a
pair to $1.50. Some tailors have their pantaloons made by men, and some
even employ men to make their vests.

362. Regalias.

"Five American women are employed at Chicopee, Mass., in stitching
military goods. They are paid by the piece. They never get their work
perfect. Learners are paid something. Men are preferable, because it takes
too much time to wait on women. There will be work as long as there are
wars." A regalia maker, in New York, told me her girls earn from $3 to $5 a
week. The sewing is done by hand. Those who embroider in silk receive
about the same; those with gold and silver thread, something more.

363. Shirts.

Page 450

"Women who make shirts by hand, are paid for fine shirts from eighteen
cents apiece to $1. Those who make at the lowest prices appear to have no
other mission on earth but to sew up bleached muslin into shirts. The only
time which they economize is their sleeping time; and their food is
economized for them by circumstances over which it would appear they
have but little control. In some instances we have been informed, that where
there are two or three or more women or girls engaged in this enterprise of
making shirts to enable gentlemen to appear respectable in society, they
absolutely divide the night season into watches, so that the claims of sleep
may not snatch from the grasp of the shirt manufacturers an iota of their
rights. In this way, by working about twenty hours a day, the amazing sum
of $2.50, and sometimes $3, is earned per week. Sewing machines have so
reduced the amount of labor required for shirts, as well as the price, that
they can in some places only earn twenty-five cents by working twelve
hours; and they cannot get steady employment even at these prices."
Between 2,000 and 3,000 women are supposed to be engaged in shirt
making in Philadelphia. Competition has depressed prices fearfully low. A
shirt maker in that city told me he pays by the week. He gives the bodies
out, and they are done by hand; the collars and bosoms by machines. They
are cut out by men with knives, and the cloth is from twenty-four to thirty-
six thicknesses. They pay basters now mostly by the piece. B., of the same
city, who carries on general shirt making, puts the plain parts out in the
country to be done. It, of course, costs less than the finishing off. Good
workers can earn from $3 to $4 a week for plain sewing—more for fine. At
a shirt-bosom manufactory in Philadelphia, P., the proprietor, told me he has
the bosoms and collars made by machinery, employing seventeen girls all
the year. Some establishments employ them only in the busy season, spring
and fall. His women earn from $3 to $5 a week. To one machine are
employed three girls: one to cut out, one to baste, and one to stitch. The fine
plaits of bosoms are laid by machinery. Cutters and button-hole makers are
better paid than basters and stitchers. A shirt maker told me in New York
(December, 1860), that the only houses there supplying the article were
those that made up for the California market. Operators, good ones, he said,
usually earn $1 a day, of nine hours in winter, and ten in summer. Those
that work at home can earn more, because they do more. On Dey street, I
was told by a gentleman that he has shirts made in Connecticut, and he

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often finds it difficult to get good hands. He has shirts cut out with scissors.
He used to employ a forewoman to cut and superintend. Most shirts sold in
the South, West, and California, have been made at the North. New York,
Troy, and New Haven are the principal places. Operators usually earn $1 a
day, of eleven hours; but as the work is generally paid for by the piece, they
may earn only from fifty cents to $1. Making button holes is a distinct
branch. He pays half a cent apiece for those of ordinary size, and one cent
for the larger ones of the wrists. In good times he employs girls all the year.
The spring sale commences in January, the fall sale in July. S., another
manufacturer, has common drawers and shirts made by machine. A brisk
hand can make two dozen pair of drawers a day, and are paid fifty cents a
dozen (?) He keeps workers in prosperous times all the year. A lady who
makes shirts by hand told me she could barely make a living, though her
work is done for customers. She does most in spring and summer. The
trimmings she makes by machine. Madame P. pays eighty cents for making
a shirt, except the bosom, which is imported. She does her own cutting by
hand. A shirt maker says girls that can finish a shirt neatly get $3 a week of
ten or eleven hours a day. Work of that kind is not confined to seasons. J.
has most work to do in summer. The girls are paid by the piece, and can
earn from $3 to $4. His are made by machine, but finished off by hand. He
has girls of all kinds; idle and industrious, easy of temper and obstinate; in
short, the variety always to be met with in help. A lady told me she cuts
shirts by measure, and has a variety of styles. She pays an old lady fifty
cents a day for basting, and from $5 to $6 a week to an operator. The
neatness of machine sewing depends much on the way in which the basting
is done. W. told me his basters earn from $3 to $4; operators from $5 to $6;
button-hole makers from $4 to $6. He gives employment all the year. No
demand, except in busy seasons for good operators, and they can be
obtained by advertising. The owner of a shirt-collar manufactory and
laundry said his collars were stitched by machines, and the operators earn
from $3 to $9 per week. It is piece work. The washers are paid by the
hundred dozen. Six weeks, I believe, is the time usually given by one that
can sew neatly, to learn the trade. At L. & G.'s, I was told the best seasons
in the wholesale trade are spring and fall; but in the retail trade there is little
difference. Men and boys cut out with a knife, and are able to cut through
seventy-two thicknesses of cloth. Women have not the strength to cut such

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quantities. The prospect is fair for good hands. There is a superabundance
of indifferent hands. Their best sewers are English. Many of them are
married women. They used to employ young girls, but they wasted material
and were not steady at work. They have lost much by women that would
come and take out a dozen shirts to make, and never return them. On
inquiring at the place where the women said they lived, they would find
they had never been there. Few, except the Jews, require a deposit. It is
difficult to obtain one from sewers of the value of the material taken out.
They could obtain one hundred and fifty hands any day by advertising.
Button-hole makers earn $5 a week; some operators, $9. A factory in New
Haven employs eight hundred women; two hundred work in the
establishment, the others work out. The indoor work is done by machines.
The other is finishing off, and is sent through the country. It consists in
gathering and sewing in the sleeves, felling down the facing around them,
stitching on wristbands, sewing in the bosoms, putting on the collar, and
working the button-holes, for which they receive ten cents a shirt. A firm of
shirt manufacturers in Troy, N. Y., write: "We employ from three hundred to
four hundred women; some with sewing machines, some with needles, and
others in various kinds of labor connected with our manufacturing. They are
paid by the piece, and earn from $3 to $10 a week. While learning they are
paid according to what they do. Spring and fall are the best seasons, but
they have some employment all the year. The supply is fully equal to the
demand in this locality. About half are Americans; board, $2 to $2.50."
Another firm in the same place writes: "We employ four hundred, and pay
from $5 to $10 per week to about one hundred hands, and from $3 to $7 to
those who do not depend upon it for a livelihood. Women spend a few
months learning; men, years. Midwinter and summer are the best seasons
for work." A shirt-collar firm in Troy write: "In reply to yours we would
state, we are employing in and outside of our manufactory, from six to eight
hundred women, in running, turning, stitching, banding, marking, and
boxing gentlemen's collars. Most of our workwomen are Americans, and
live with parents or relatives. Those boarding pay from $1.75 to $3 per
week. Many of our workwomen are very intelligent. All are required to be
steady and industrious. Some parts of our business can be learned in two or
three weeks, while other parts will take as many months; but each one is
paid while learning. Our work is all done by the piece, and women earn

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from $5 to $8 per week during business seasons, which are summer and
winter. They are usually thrown out of employment one month during the
fall, and one in spring. The employment requires from eight to nine hours
per day, in our manufactory. The making of gentlemen's collars must
increase in proportion to the increase of the male population of our country;
and, as styles are becoming more and more varied, this also must tend to
increase the manufacture. There is, however, no demand for help in any
department of the business, yet. We have but five or six women in all our
establishment who are required to stand upon their feet while at work. All
others can make their positions quite comfortable. We employ but few men
(from five to eight), and they are in departments which women could not
fill; nor could men well fill the women's department." Manufacturers in
Boston write: "The prospect of future employment is good. Our women
(fifty in number) are nearly all Americans. There is no competition between
male and female labor in this branch, which, probably, is the cause of
women receiving less wages. The work is healthy, only as it involves want
of fresh air and exercise. Girls in the shop are paid from $4 to $7 per week,
and work from nine to ten hours. Good sewers are getting scarcer every
year. We are always ready to employ a really good hand—one who can do
nice work. There is a growing demand for articles of all kinds. There are a
great many women unable to sew well, who compete with each other for
the work given out by the slop shops." Shirt makers in Ithaca, New York,
write: "The work is very healthy in well ventilated establishments. What we
employ men for, women cannot do as well. There is a demand for collar
finishers, a surplus of machine operatives." Shirt manufacturers in
Watertown, Conn., write: "We employ in our establishment from twelve to
twenty girls and women, all Americans. They work in winter about nine
hours; in summer, ten. Most of them work on sewing machines, and can
earn from $4 to $5 per week. For board they pay $2 per week. There is no
season of the year when our work is entirely stopped." L., in Lynn, Mass.,
engaged in custom-shirt manufacturing, writes: "I pay fifty cents apiece for
making shirts, and $4.50 per week for a machine girl. My workwomen are
widows and married women, and they average five shirts or $2.50 per
week, besides their house work. But a woman that makes five shirts a week
cannot have much spare time." A lady in Massachusetts, who has shirts
made to order, informs me she pays by the piece, and her girls earn from

Page 454

fifty to seventy-five cents a day. She employs the most skilful. She says the
nature of the employment is such that no woman could enjoy health long,
who did nothing else, and the wages are so small that anyone must work all
the time to make a living; hence the work does not suit any, except those
who have homes and have recourse to this as a secondary employment. The
demand for the articles in the market is limited, and she has never been able
to carry it on in a wholesale manner except by the aid of friends whose
sympathy has created a demand for the work.

364. Suspenders.

J., New York, says his girls can earn from $4 to $5, and are paid by the
piece. There are but four suspender factories in the United States, of any
size. The factories at the east are mostly supplied by the daughters of
farmers from the vicinity. The one in Easthampton is of the best standing.
The girls are intelligent and well behaved. Board too is lower. They like to
employ families, father, mother, sons, and daughters. A suspender maker, in
New York, told me he buys the woven goods, then cuts it the right length,
and shapes the leather for the ends, which his wife sews on. I expect, from
the appearance of their room, they earn but a meagre subsistence. The agent
of the American Suspender Co., at Waterbury, told me "they employ a large
number of girls to spool, weave, and pack. The straps are sewed on by
farmers' daughters, who take them home. They are paid for by the gross.
They earn less than weavers, who can make from $4 to $6 a week. They
have had constant work until this fall (1860). The bindings are sewed on by
hand. It requires some time to become a good weaver. A man serves a
regular apprenticeship—women will learn for ten years, if they continue.
Ingenuity and mechanical talent are desirable. A learner is not paid while in
with another weaver. The amount of employment in future depends on
European competition. The hands work ten hours a day, and they employ
about fifty women, one fourth of whom are American. Women are superior
to men in activity, and will handle thread much better than men. Board,
$1.75."

Page 455

365. Tailoresses.

The tailors of London have a pension society. All the tailors' work of this
country might be performed by women. It is most suitable for them. Some
say women cannot do the nice sewing of a coat. Give them the same
training, and pay them the same wages as men, and we are confident they
can. All of the clothes sold in the slop shops of cities are made by women.
Many can sew beautifully, but have not learned the art of cutting out. This
they will find an important part of their trade. It will greatly assist those
who make boys' clothes. It is ascertained that at least 4,800 females are
supplied with work by the ready-made clothing establishments of
Philadelphia, which enables each industrious sewer to earn from $1.25 to $5
per week. A large number of women are now engaged in making clothes for
the soldiers. At most large clothing establishments, work is done both by
hand and machine. Some is done in the house, but most is given out. At
O.'s, New York, they employ a large number. The majority are Americans,
but some are Germans, and a few Irish. The foreman finds those that are
dependent on their work for a living, do their work better than those that
merely do it for pocket money. The best work is always best paid. A good
hand can earn $3 per week. They work by the piece. Some women hire a
room and employ girls to work for them. S. says the principal reason that
women do not get as good prices as men, is that they do not learn to do their
work so well. He spent five years learning, but a girl expects to learn it in so
many weeks, or months, at most; but many women that sew for a support
are very poor, and cannot afford to spend much time learning. T. pays his
women from $5 to $10 a week, according to the work they do. R. says girls
do not feel the interest in their work they should. They forget that three
minutes lost by twenty girls amounts to an hour. If a procession is passing,
they think it very hard if they cannot have ten or fifteen minutes to look out
of the windows. The girls that sew earn from $3 to $4.50, except those who
fasten the ends of threads and take out basting threads, who receive $2.50.
They all work ten hours. They have some who take their work home, and
are paid by the piece. Those that do their work best have the highest prices,
and are most sure of having constant employment. Some of their women
become mere machines, and that in his opinion was a recommendation.
They have no life or spirit, but plod on day after day in the same way. Such,

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when they do their work neatly and thoroughly, he thinks most reliable.
They find it difficult to get their work well done. It is computed by Dr. L.
that one thousand needlewomen fall victims annually to overwork at the
needle. A city missionary told me that he knew of many sempstresses that
spent sixteen hours out of the twenty-four, stitching. I was told in D. & B.'s
clothing store, that the women who sew by hand, earn from $3 to $4 per
week. P. measures and cuts, and he employs women to operate on
machines, paying from $3 to $4 per week, working from 8 to 7 o'clock. It is
done under Mrs. P.'s supervision. The work is mostly for boys. They give
work out, and of course pay by the piece. Their most busy times are from
October to March, and from April to September. They do Southern work. L.
& Co. make boys' clothing, and pay by the piece. They require a deposit
from those that are doubtful. If business is good, they give work all the year.
He thinks there is enough of work, in busy times, for all the tailoresses in
the city. The best way to learn is to receive instruction from journeymen
who employ hands and take learners. Some require an apprenticeship of
three months, and some of six months, in children's clothing. The busy
season commences November 1st and runs to March 1st, and from March to
September 1st.

366. Vests.

First class vest makers receive better prices than women in the other
departments of tailoring, and are more sure of work. Superior hands can
earn from $4 to $5 a week. Clothing, cap makers and shoe binders are often
crowded together from forty to fifty in a room, where it is stitch, stitch,
stitch from daylight to sundown. Some slop shops in New York pay only
fifteen cents for making a vest, and only ten cents for pantaloons!!! There
are over nine thousand tailoresses doing custom work in New York, and of
these 7,400 are vestmakers.

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UPHOLSTERERS.

367. Upholsterers.

Some branches of upholstery are hard work in consequence of the heaviness
of the materials. At some upholsterers in Philadelphia, when a girl applies
for work, she is taught during a fortnight, and receives enough to pay her
board—usually $1.50 per week. At the end of this time, if found faithful
and diligent, she is put upon full wages, $3.50 a week. In this trade there is
the serious drawback of remaining a great part of the year unemployed, as it
is only in the spring and fall that the business is brisk. Men usually put up
tapestry, and lay down heavy carpets. The price to girls by upholsterers is
about on a par with other work done by females. H., Philadelphia, employs
several women. The forewoman receives $5.50 per week; the next best
hand, $5; the less proficient, from $2 to $5. The business requires a good
amount of intelligence, and about a year's application to acquire it. H. is not
exacting as to the number of hours his operatives work. When business is
slack they have easy times. He employs his good hands all the year. In one
of the principal importing and manufacturing upholsteries and carpet
establishments in New York about seventy females are employed. They
make up a great many lace and damask curtains, and are under the
supervision of a forewoman. Seventeen sewing machines are kept, though
most of the sewing is done by hand. Any person that can sew well can do all
the work, as it is cut out and prepared. With a very few exceptions all are
paid by the week, receiving from $3 to $4, working ten hours a day. The
piece workers can sometimes earn $5. They are employed the whole year.
An upholsterer told me that his work is done to order, and consequently the
measure for beds, mattresses, curtains, &c., is always taken. There are many
women in Boston, I have been informed, working in sofa, chair, and lounge
manufactories that earn from $1 to $1.50 a day. A firm in Boston writes: "I
employ women to sew and attend sales, and pay from $3 to $4 a week. Men
are paid two thirds more than women, because it is the fashion. It requires

Page 458

three months to learn. A knowledge of the needle and figures is desirable.
Learners are paid. Females work nine hours and a half. Some parts of our
work are in wood, and too heavy for women; the rest they can do better
than men. Board, $2 to $4. A firm in Boston, "employing two women to
make sofa cushions, pay them $4 each per week, working from eight to ten
hours a day. They pay women less than men, because female help is
generally cheaper. Men spend three years learning; women, one month.
Learners have their board paid. The prospect for work is good. Spring and
autumn are the most busy seasons, but they have work all the year."
Another firm in the same place write they "employ fifteen women, pay by
the piece, and their hands earn $5 per week. The prospect for work is good,
but there are plenty of hands there."

368. Beds.

At a feather store I was told feathers for stuffing beds are bought from
merchants, who employ agents to travel through the country, and buy them
up. They get their feathers from the West. Live geese feathers are the best.
All imported are from Russia. It requires great experience to buy feathers.
At another store I was told feathers must be baked to render them light—
otherwise they are flat and heavy. The salesman never knew of a woman
being employed in baking—thinks it not suitable, for the down gets in the
mouth and nostrils, as the feathers must be constantly stirred. In the spring
and fall, when most people go to housekeeping, most beds are sold.

369. Carpets.

Two thirds of the inhabitants of Saxony are employed in weaving. It
requires from two to three years to become a good carpet weaver. To
prepare warp and rags for rag carpets is very suitable, but the weaving is
rather hard for women. Mrs. W. says it does not require a great deal of
strength to weave rag carpets, when the loom is a good one and in proper
order. In weaving, both the arms and lower limbs are exercised, particularly
the latter. She wove when she was only thirteen years old. The exercise
tends to develop the chest. The price for weaving in small places is from

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12½ to 18 cents a yard. She knew one lady that often wove fourteen yards a
day, amounting to $1.75; but her health failed, and she changed her
occupation. I called in a weaver's, in Brooklyn. He charges 18¾ cents per
yard for weaving, and can weave from eighteen to twenty yards a day.
Some rags are much more difficult to manage than others. The dust from
the rags in spooling and weaving must be disagreeable. When not working
for customers he makes carpets to keep on hand for sale. He buys the rags
of old women, who get the scraps at tailors' shops every Monday morning,
and cut them into strips, then wind and sell them at $7.50 a hundred pounds.
The women are mostly Germans, and make a scanty living at it. In the Old
Ladies' Home, Brooklyn, some of the inmates pass part of their time in
preparing rags for weaving. Some old women buy of junk dealers the rags
they sell to weavers. A woman whose husband was a carpet weaver in New
York, continues the business since his death, employing two old men to
weave. She charges eighteen cents a yard for weaving. She says that kind of
weaving could never be done by machinery, as it would pull the rags all to
pieces. She buys listing and cloth of old women who get it from the tailors
and bring it around to sell. She pays twelve cents a pound for listing, six for
cloth. She cuts them herself. A weaver told me he charges eighteen cents a
yard. He buys pieces of cloth from the tailors for making up a stock to keep
on hand. A pile of listing lay on the floor, for which he had paid nine cents a
pound. He can weave from eight to sixteen yards a day. I have seen the
average price of weaving carpets stated at nine cents a yard. The dust that
flies in preparing carpet rags is disagreeable, and injurious to the eyes and
lungs.

370. Curled Hair Pullers.

Hair pullers are mostly Irish women, the wives of foreigners and laboring
men. A few are women of a better class reduced in circumstances. In
Philadelphia, at the shop of a kind old man, I saw women picking hair for
mattresses. He pays two cents a pound for picking. The women earn from
forty to sixty cents a day. The dust that flies from the hair is injurious to the
lungs, and the constant watching is trying to the eyes. At one curled hair
factory in New York I saw women employed at one cent a pound, at another

Page 460

two cents. A smart woman can pick twenty-five or thirty a day. An
upholsterer in Boston writes: "We have women to sew, pick hair, &c. We
pay by the piece. Men receive one third better pay than women. Women
receive less, because they have not brass enough to ask more. Any woman
can do our work. The prospect of work in our line is very fair. We have
twenty women who work all the time. The demand for hands is small,
surplus large. Large cities are best for our trade. Board, $2.50."

371. Curtain Trimmings.

I saw two girls, in New York, who work at the trade. Their employer does
not pay learners for two weeks, then according to what they do. Some are
paid by the week, and some by the piece. The last plan pays best. The girls
earn from $3 to $5 per week, some even as much as $7. Plenty of hands can
always be had. They have most work in summer. At another place I was told
it takes three or four months to learn. Good hands can earn then from $4 to
$5. Mrs. B., in New York, told me her girls work by the piece, making
curtain trimmings, and earn from $5 to $6 a week. They work from 6 A. M.
until 7 P. M. They can learn it in a few weeks. At Y.'s, in New York, I saw a
plain, genteel-looking woman engaged in making tassels. She pays $2 a
week for board—washing extra. She spoke very well of her employer, for
whom she had worked twelve years. She mentioned an old lady upstairs
who had been in his employ twenty years. He has fifteen women in the
tassel department, and fifteen making gimps and fringes. Some of the hands
are paid by the piece, and some by the week—ten hours a day. They are
paid every two weeks on Saturday afternoon. In the old country women
make twisted cord, but not in this. Cordmakers are on their feet all the time.
Y.'s women get from $2 to $5 per week, ten hours a day. Men get from $6 to
$9. It requires six months to learn, and learners receive $1.50 per week. In
winter, just before the holidays, is the best time for work; but Y.'s hands
have employment all the time. When not filling orders, they make stock
work. They have a great many applications for work.

372. Furniture Goods.

Page 461

"At Seymour, Conn., are manufactured brocatelles and cotalines, a fabric
composed of silk and linen, or cotton, and used for furniture draperies and
carriage linings. Each loom is worked by a girl, who requires very little
previous experience to manage it perfectly. There are about 60 persons
employed at present in the work, two thirds of whom are females from the
age of fourteen upward. The rate of wages paid by the company is higher
than that given by the neighboring factories, the nature of the work
requiring a superior degree of skill and intelligence."

373. Mattresses.

A girl engaged in making mattresses told us they are mostly sewed up by
machines, and operators earn from $3 to $6, working ten hours a day. In
some factories women sew the mattresses, and boys and men prepare the
hair and fill them. A mattress seller told me he employs girls to make
mattresses in the spring and fall, paying $3 a week, of ten hours a day. One
bed furnisher told me her work is mostly done by old ladies. She says some
girls down street earn $6 a week, making mattresses. One large
manufacturer told me that his is piecework, and some of his girls earn from
$8 to $12 a week. He furnishes the sewing machines. In April and May, he
finds it difficult to get enough of hands. At another large store, I was told
they pay from $6 to $7 a week to good operators, and have their work done
in the building. At another large bed and mattress store, I was told they pay
women for making ticks with machines from $4 to $5 a week. It is not very
steady work. At another place they occupied a room back of the store, and
earned from $4 to $6 a week. A firm in Nashua, N. H., write me "they
employ fourteen American women in making mattresses, cushions, &c., and
pay from $3 to $3.50 a week, including board, and work ten hours a day.
Men are paid about $5 a week, and do different work from the women.
Some of the hands are employed all the year. There is no great demand for
mattress makers at present anywhere. Board, $2."

374. Venetian Blinds.

Page 462

At W.'s Venetian blind manufactory, in Philadelphia, I was told they
generally employ several women. They earn about $3 a week, and take their
sewing home. The work is sewing tapes on the main pieces to support the
slats. The business is best in the spring, from January to May, and is good in
the fall, but they endeavor to furnish some employment all the year to their
girls, who are American. A manufacturer of Venetian blinds in Boston
employs some women in writing, sewing, laying out work, &c. They are
mostly paid by the piece, and earn from $3 to $6 per week. Male and female
labor is not of the same kind in his establishment. Men spend two years
learning; women, one month. The last part of spring and the first part of
summer are best for work. He could easily find more sewers, if he had
employment for them. He finds them cheaper and more suitable for the
work than men. The means of mental and moral culture are those common
to the residents of Boston.

375. Window Shades.

At an establishment in Philadelphia, a few women are employed in the busy
seasons, spring and fall, in laying the gilding on the borders of linen shades.
They earn from $1.50 to $3.00 per week. The painted linen window shades
(landscapes, buildings, &c.) are executed entirely by men, who receive $12
a week wages. Our informant said these men could paint (I think) 6 pair a
day. I am sure there is no reason why a lady could not paint landscapes and
other ornamental work on shades, if they would only qualify themselves. It
would probably require two or three years' practice to acquire proficiency,
for a person unaccustomed to painting of any kind. The design of common
ones is invented as the painter proceeds, as he has no pattern to work from.
It requires a knowledge of colors, and some taste and ingenuity. A man is
paid from $1.50 to $2 a day. K., New York, has a number of women
stencilling shades. The women earn about $4 a week. B., New York, usually
employs two girls in putting elastic over the bands of pulleys and tying
them up, for which they each receive $4 a week. I saw a girl in New York,
engaged in stencilling. She is paid by the piece, and can earn $6 or $7 a
week, when she has constant employment. It does not take long to learn. I
called at a factory where they pay three cents a piece for painting the

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centres of common shades. It is done with cloths. They pay $2 a piece for
fine ones. The fine ones have the principal parts drawn before being
painted. A smart man can earn $20 a week at that work, but shades are not
much used now. At a store on Broadway, they used to employ girls for
painting shades and putting on the gilding. They had American girls mostly.
German men are mostly employed at that work. If American men learn this
business, they have so much energy and ambition they are soon able to get
an establishment of their own, and then employ foreigners, many of whom
work for less, to obtain employment, and then cannot raise their prices, and
so are apt ever to retain a subordinate position. Their girls worked in the
room with the men, but it was a large room, and they worked at the far end.
Part of the work ought to be done by men. They had one woman that put on
the flowing colors and earned $9 a week. But they found it necessary to
have the girls wear Bloomer costume, to prevent their dresses touching the
shade while painting; but they would not even then consent to lay down
their hoops, and as their skirts would touch the painting and injure it, they
altogether abandoned the employment of females. L., New York, told me he
met with great opposition when he first employed women to gild window
curtains, and he could not have held out if his house had not been
established and he very firm. He lost one or more of his customers by doing
so. The work is very suitable for women. L.'s men and women work in the
same apartment, but the men are required to be very respectful. The women
have a dressing room attached to their workroom. They move about on their
feet all the time, while at work. Men put size on, but women could do it.
The women receive $5 a week, and never work over ten hours. The work
can be learned in a day. The Southerners are doing without fancy goods
now, so the trade is very poor. L. has saved about $1,000 the past year by
employing women. Men are in such haste to get through their work, that
they are careless and waste the gold leaf. A window-shade manufacturer in
Boston, who employs some girls in stencilling, informs me by letter that "he
pays by the piece from $3 to $6 per week. A smart, active girl can earn
more than a man of medium abilities. Cleanliness and endurance are the
most essential qualifications. The prospect for continuance is as good as
that of any other fancy business. Best seasons for work are from March to
July, and October to January, but at other times hands can make enough to
pay their board. They work from seven to twelve hours; for over hours, are

Page 464

paid extra. Board, $2.50; (washing extra) but they have not a room alone."
One shade manufacturer writes: "There are parts of my work that could be
done by girls as well as men, but their style of dress is not adapted to it."
Another in Boston writes: "I would employ women, if my shop was
convenient, as I could get them for less price than men. Men are paid thirty-
three per cent. more than women: one reason is they are capable of more
endurance. We work ten hours in summer, eight in winter." Another firm in
the same city employs from four to eight women, paying from $3 to $6 per
week, working from nine to ten hours a day. Six months is the average time
given by a learner. Spring and fall are the most busy seasons."
Wire Window Shades. Mrs. C. said a lady used to paint wire shades for
her husband. He also employed men. He has most work done in summer. It
requires care to keep from filling the niches with paint. Miss —— acquired
boldness and freedom of execution in oil painting by the practice. Rapidity
and lightness of touch were also acquired. Her hand had got a stiff, cramped
feeling, from painting on canvas constantly. The price paid for shades
depends on the fineness of the cloth, the size, and design. Miss S. says her
father has the landscape painting done by Germans, and pays good prices. It
is paid for by the square foot. He charges $2 a square foot, for a shade in the
frame, ready to put in the window. The artists take them to their studios.
Germans are preferred because they work most rapidly. One makes a great
deal of money, but he works late at night and on Sundays. Several coats of
paint are put on before the landscape is painted. Some copy engravings, but
enlarge the scale. They make to order. The business is increasing. He sends
a great many to the South, particularly Havana and Baltimore.

Page 465

MANUFACTURERS OF BOOKS, INK, PAPER, AND
PENCILS.

376. Bookfolders.

I know of no work in a bookbindery that could not be performed by
intelligent women that were properly instructed. Forwarding, marbling,
gilding, stamping, and finishing could be done by them, in addition to
presswork, folding, gathering, and sewing. The female bookfolders of New
York number several thousand. The women in Philadelphia binderies are
between 1,000 and 2,000. The most bookfolding and sewing, out of New
York, are done in Washington and Philadelphia, and some in Cincinnati.
The busy seasons for book makers are from September to January, and from
March to July. In this business there is a union among the men regulating
prices, hours, &c. There is a great difference in the character of the
binderies in New York—every shade and grade is to be found. In seeing the
size and comfort of the workrooms, and the manners and conversation of
the employer, it would not be very difficult to judge of the pay and
condition of the workgirls. The trade is well filled, and, no doubt, with quite
as many women of worth, self-respect, and education, as any other. At the
Bible House, Tract House, Methodist Book Concern, and Harper's, New
York, the faces of the workers are bright and cheerful. Every precaution is
taken to secure only those who are respectable, and the associations
surrounding them are calculated to elevate, rather than degrade. Most of
them are able to pay enough for their board to secure the right kind of home
associations. These establishments, except in emergencies like the present,
retain their hands all the year; while those in a majority of other houses
fluctuate with their business and are unoccupied three or four months in the
year. Bookfolding is paid for by the 1,000 sheets, depending on the size of
the sheet and the number of times it is folded. A good, fast folder can earn
from 50 cents to 65 cents a day, whether folding with a machine or by hand.
A few can earn as much as $6 per week. Folding and collating pay the best

Page 466

of woman's work. Collating is usually paid for at 20 cents an hour. Men in
bookbinderies get from $8 to $20 per week. Some employers are much
more kind and intelligent than others. Some bookbinders in New York
impose on girls by taking them to learn the business, requiring that they
stay from six weeks to six months to do so, and paying nothing during that
time. During the most of the time their work is efficient, and they earn
money for their employers. When the time has expired they are turned off,
and others taken on. Some bookbinders employ those who will do their
work at a very cheap rate, often thus exposing them to influences that are
pernicious. Favoritism is often shown by employers and foremen. At H.'s,
200 women and girls are employed in folding, sewing, and gilding. Either
of the branches is light and pleasant, and soon learned, after which the
remuneration depends upon the abilities of the learner. Their hours are from
7-½ to 6, but it is piece work. All of his workpeople are temperance people.
The work of bookbinders is not more unhealthy than any other indoor work.
At the Tract House they take a few girls to learn to fold, and have them
work until they earn $6 before they pay anything. An English woman told
me that she used to earn $7 a week, as forewoman, but they never allowed
her to be absent a day. A publisher in Philadelphia employs about fifty girls
in his bindery, but complains that as soon as they make a few dollars they
will take a holiday to spend it. He says the better he pays the girls in his
bindery, the more they are absent from their work and the more difficult are
they to manage. That, I think, arises from defective moral training. We
know that people of right principle (both men and women), whose wages
enable them to dress comfortably, and provide wholesome food and well
ventilated, healthy apartments, are not only better able to work well and
constantly, but do so. It stands to reason they should. If the poor cannot
make a proper use of their scanty compensation, they are more to be pitied
than blamed, for we know well they have nothing to spare. The manufacture
of blank-books is an important branch of business. A blank-book
manufacturer in Troy writes: "I pay both ways, and the wages are from $3
to $4.50 per week. Men's wages are from $6 to $12, but their work is
different and heavier. Women's part of the work is learned in from six
weeks to one year. A ready hand and quick eye are wanted by a learner.
Busiest time from December to July. There is a surplus of hands, so far as I
know. When men work at the women's branches (which is very seldom),

Page 467

they do it more substantially." In France women do much of the work in
blank-book binderies. In M. Maitre's book bindery, Dijon, France, "No
apprentice, boy or girl, is received until after they have made their premier
communion, and received a certificate that they can both read and write,
and also a medical certificate of vaccination. The workpeople are thus of a
respectable class. The young children of most of the married women are
either sent out to nurse in the country, according to the very common
custom of France, or else the married pair form one household with the
grand parents."

377. Book Sewers.

"Trades in general require a large share of mechanical ingenuity, in
combination with strength, mathematical skill, and other qualifications.
Strength is requisite to the success of a bookbinder." Women employed in
sewing are paid by the piece, and as soon as they are competent, which
requires but a few days, are paid according to their application from $3.50
to $7 per week. The work of women in binderies is clean, and about as
comfortable and remunerative as any other of a mechanical nature. At the
Methodist Book Concern we saw girls folding, gathering, sewing, putting
plates in books, gilding the covers, and feeding the presses. They were well
dressed and intelligent looking, and evidently felt an interest in the welfare
of the establishment. The majority were Americans. The superintendent told
us, "girls earn, in the sewing department, from $3 to $9 per week. A good
sewer can earn, without difficulty, from $5 to $5.50 per week. They have
about thirty, most of whom work by the piece. They have one strong
woman who sometimes earns $10 a week. They never work over ten hours,
as the house is only open for work that long. The folding and enveloping of
tracts and papers admit of a change of posture. There is no similarity in the
male and female labor. The comparison in prices is about one-half to one-
third. It requires a lifetime to learn a man's branch; an intelligent woman
can learn hers in a week. The result of a bookbinder's work is not for a day,
but for all time. Bookbinders have more constant employment than those in
most other trades. The work is most dull in summer. There is constant
employment in New York for first-class hands, and always a surplus of

Page 468

second-class. Large cities offer the best localities—those in the South and
West will probably furnish many openings to publishers." A. & S. employ
girls to fold, stitch, and sew. They are paid by the piece (customary), and
earn from $3 to $5 per week. Sewers can earn more than folders and
stitchers—say from $5 to $7. They work until six o'clock and commence
when they please, as they are paid by the quantity. A bookbinder told me his
girls work from seven to six o'clock. He gives work all the year. They are
paid by the piece, and can earn from $5 to $6 a week. I have been told
folders and sewers are taken as learners only where the cheapest work is
done. At some binderies three cents 100 is paid for folding, three cents for
sewing, and six cents for stitching. At some places five cents 100 is paid for
folding 12mo. sheets. The proportion of hands employed in the different
branches of bookbinding is somewhat as follows: About two thirds are
folders, one sixth gatherers, and one sixth sewers. A process has been
invented by which books can be strongly bound without sewing. I fear it
may be the means of throwing many sewers out of employment. At W.'s
bookbindery I was told they sometimes take learners. They expect them to
stay six months, and pay them half that they can earn during that time. They
pay workers by the piece, and they can earn from $4 to $6 a week. Some of
the girls are employed to remove the covers from old books and magazines
that are to be rebound. M., who does the printing of the A.'s, informs me
that his girls work by the piece, and average over $4 per week. His learners
receive one half their earnings—the teacher the other half. Spring and fall
are the most busy seasons, but the women are never entirely out of
employment. There is no surplus of good hands, but many imperfect ones.
He employs from 125 to 150. The superintendent at H.'s told me that the
girls in the sewing-room earn from $3.50 to $8. He says their women are
intelligent and lady-like, and would adorn the best society. They change
their dresses when they come to work, and then before leaving. If they are
at all hurried in their work, their hands, both men and women, come early
and stay late of their own free will. Males average $10, females over $4.
The reason of the difference is, that men serve an apprenticeship of five or
seven years—women five or seven weeks. The former are the mechanics;
the latter merely assistants. The latter cheapen the labor of the former,
without having the strength or physical ability to perform their work. (I
cannot see how it should be so when the branches performed are entirely

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distinct.) The foreman at B.'s told me a very brisk worker can earn $6 a
week, but few do. They do not average over eight hours a day. They never
light their building. S.'s girls, in good times, are employed all the year. He
pays by the piece, and his girls earn from $3 to $5. In most small book
binderies in New York men and girls work in the same room. A girl at the
Tract House told me they pay better for sewing there than in most other
places, and have work all the year, in ordinary times. A printer boy told me
his sister earns, in a bindery, from $8 to $10 a week. D. has newspapers
printed and folded, and pays his women for folding from $4 to $5 a week. A
manufacturer in New York, having a bindery in New Jersey, pays his girls
mostly $3.50 a week, besides their board and washing. He boards them, and
he is very particular in having them attend church on the Sabbath, and
keeping an oversight of their morals and habits. Most of the binding done
South and West is that of blank books. There is not so much machinery at
the South and West as at the North. F. says the binding of blank books pays
best. A good folder may earn $6 a week, but a sewer not so much. The
majority of both do not earn more than $4. They pay from the first. One
woman can stitch enough to keep three men employed. So there are not as
many women employed in factories where blank books are made, as where
printed books are. I was told on Fulton street, at a blank-book manufactory,
that their girls earn from $5 to $7. They give steady work all the year. The
binding of blank books pays best. They have one girl that sometimes earns
$9 a week. At jobbing houses girls generally earn $6 a week, when paid by
the week for binding.

378. Card Makers.

For about eleven hundred years women have been more or less employed in
the manufacture of cards. At N.'s, New York, I saw two girls who each earn
$6 a week, and work only in daylight, and have work all the year. I went
through D. & Co.'s work rooms, and saw the process of making playing
cards. A large number of girls were at work, who receive average wages of
$4 per week. It requires six months to learn well. They do not like to take
any learners with whose character they are unacquainted; for many, when
they have learned, will go off where they can get better pay. Six girls that

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learned with him last summer were drawn off by an employer who offered
them twenty-five cents a week more; but when his busy time was over, they
came back crying to be taken in again. So he made a rule that none should
be taken back that once leave. (Do not men go where they get the best
prices?) They keep all their hands at work, because many of them represent
three or four others, who are dependent on their labor for bread. They give
work all the year, and pay a learner according to what she accomplishes.
They sometimes find it difficult to get good hands. They will not take hands
from another employer unless they bring a note saying they have been
honorably discharged. It is to avoid getting bad and dishonest workers. (If
employers in that line of business, or any other, should agree never to
receive hands from each other's places of business, it would cast workers
entirely at the mercy of employers.) D. says their regulations are strict. I
thought the girls looked to be comfortably situated. Some were cutting
cards, some assorting, some counting, and some enveloping. Nearly all sat.
He thinks the business so limited that it is not likely to furnish employment
to many more. He says girls working at bookbinding and hoop skirts are out
of employment a great deal; two thirds of the hoop-skirt makers are now out
of employment. S. & P. make fancy and business cards. S. told me he pays
his most experienced girls $3.50 a week. Learners receive $2.50 a week for
four weeks—after that, according to activity and capability. He has
hundreds of applicants, and always selects those who seem most destitute.
They work ten hours a day. He has had some girls several years. To the
small girls he pays less. He often has two or three girls from the same
family. Foreign goods are so much preferred by Americans that they put
French labels on some.
Visiting Cards. A., New York, employs two girls to put up visiting cards,
and pays $3 and $3.50 per week. It does not require any time to learn. He
now uses a machine for cutting that does the work of several girls. I was
told by a very obliging girl, working in a visiting-card manufactory in New
York, that to some the occupation is unhealthy, because of the lead inhaled,
which injures the lungs. In that factory learners are paid $2 a week. It
requires but a week to learn to cut the cards, which is done with a small
hand press. The girl knew of two places in the city where the work was paid
for by the piece; but in that factory they were mostly paid by the week,

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receiving $3.50 and $4, working ten hours a day. It requires from four to six
weeks to learn. Nimbleness of fingers and ability to count are the most
desirable qualifications. They have work all the year, except in November
and December. They sit while cutting, assorting, and packing. This work is
confined to women, as they are best adapted to it. Those in the brushing
room stand. Several hundred girls are employed in New York in the card
business.

379. Card Stencillers and Painters.

A stencil engraver told me he cannot use acids in his work, because his
lungs are weak, and it is very injurious. The business is dull in winter, but
good in spring and fall. It pays very well when there is enough to do. His
work has to be done hurriedly, as it is generally for merchants who are
going to ship goods, and frequently do not order the plates until the barrels
are headed and the boxes are nailed. The making of embroidery stencil
plates, he thinks, would do better for a woman, and that could be done
without any regard to seasons. A visiting-card writer told me he charges $1
a package of fifty-two for plain marking. Mrs. H. saw the advertisement of
one who writes one hundred cards for $1. I. G., who makes show cards,
says a boy for filling the letters is paid six cents a sheet. For designing, a
person could get twenty-four cents a sheet. He could both design and fill
thirty a day, so earning $1.87½. He knows that the merchants of the South
used to purchase their cards in New York, and so there must be openings in
the South for writers of show cards, and probably in the West. It requires
about one year to learn to design well, and two weeks to learn to fill in
neatly. Employees are paid by the piece. I was told that card painting must
be done by women, judging from the prices paid—some cards costing but
twelve cents a piece. I am sure women could do all the work. Making the
letters is very simple, and filling them up is a mere mechanical operation.
They can earn, I am confident, over $2 a day, if they have enough of work.
It is peculiarly adapted to women, and some of them should learn it. I saw
the wife of a German stencil engraver, who assists her husband by cutting
out with scissors the parts that form the letters. He is paid three cents a
letter. He can cut forty letters in two or three hours. A coat of wax is laid on

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the plate, and an instrument used for working out the letters, figures, or
design, then an acid poured on, and when it has stood for a time removed
with the wax. It can then be cut out with scissors, or into large letters and
figures with other tools. Writing plates are cut by hand, as they can be most
neatly and delicately done in that way. They are twice as high in price as
stencil plates. S., who manufactures show cards, has several times thought
of employing women. They could with a brush fill the outlines, which is
now done by men, who earn from $2.50 to $18 a week. It would require
about a year to acquire proficiency in drawing the outlines of the letters and
using the brush to fill them. He thinks it a very suitable business for
women, and will probably employ some before long.

380. Cover and Edge Gilders.

I think burnishing the edges of books could be done by women after they
are put in the frames, but considerable strength is required in the
preparatory processes of shaving and screwing up. The burnishing is done
with agates. I doubt whether it requires more strength than many other
things women do. Laying gold leaf on the edges could certainly be done by
them. Men that gild the edges of books receive from $7 to $9 a week. Men
will not fold or stitch, because it does not pay well enough. G. says gilding
the covers of books requires a longer apprenticeship than either folding or
sewing; and at H.'s, workers are paid at first eight cents an hour, afterward
ten cents an hour. It being piecework, the girls are not strictly confined to
hours. Book and card edge-gilding is done both in England and France by
women.

381. Electrotypers.

Electrotyping is now more used than stereotyping by those who expect to
have many editions of a work published. It costs but little more than
stereotyping, and is either four or six times as durable, I forget which.
2,000,000 impressions can be taken from an electrotype plate, but only
800,000 from a stereotype plate. A boy learning the business receives $4 a
week the first year, and after that more. A journeyman receives $2 a day,

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and some $2.50. A journeyman told us he had spent seven years at it, and he
felt that he had yet much to learn; in fact, a person could be always
learning. Electrotyping would be a useful and profitable occupation for
women. An apprenticeship of three or four years is given to it.

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382. Envelope Makers.

At B. & G.'s, New York, girls work by the piece all the year in busy times,
and can earn from $3 to $6. Most of those who get in factories, do so
through the influence of friends or acquaintances in or connected with the
establishment. Their business is increasing. They keep their girls all the
year. They give lessons in the busy months, August and September,
February and March, and pay from the first. A good hand can earn from $3
to $5. P. & Co. usually employ sixty girls. They are paid by the piece, and
earn from $4 to $4.50 a week. The envelopes are made by machines,
attended by women. They employ five or six girls making envelopes by
hand, as they have not machines of some sizes. P. thinks the occupation is
full. They have employed their girls all the year. They used to take learners,
and give the teachers their profits. My companion, Mrs. F., inquired if
envelopes could not be more easily made where the paper is manufactured.
He replied, they could not, because paper (and, I believe, all other goods)
are delivered free of freight in New York, and he can make more by being
here in the centre of trade, than if he had to send his goods here to be sold,
and employ some one to sell them. He prefers the girls that can be obtained
in the villages and country, for he thinks them more honest and truthful. He
thinks the grade of morals altogether superior in the country to that of the
city. He spoke of the want of moral obligation in the lower classes, arising
from the want of proper instruction, and the lower you descend the worse
you find it. The makers of boxes for containing envelopes they got were
such a common set, that they instructed some nice American girls how to
make them, and now employ them. He says the box makers are a common
set. So I have heard bookbinders, umbrella makers, and hoop-skirt workers
spoken of. But I frequently hear one trade speak disparagingly of another.
W. told me their girls are paid so much a thousand. The envelopes are cut
by a machine attended by a man. They are folded by a machine managed by
two women, who of course stand. They are pasted and enveloped by girls
who sit. The girls earn from $3 to $5 a week. It requires but two or three
weeks to acquire the trade. A learner is paid nothing. The envelopes are
tipped or gummed by a girl, who stands. This is the most difficult part of

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the work done by women, and pays best. There are eight factories in New
York, one in Philadelphia, and one in Connecticut. Nine tenths of the
business is done in New York. There are probably between two hundred and
three hundred girls employed in the business in that city. W. requires
references. Some employers are particular in their selection of hands—
others advertise, and take them as they come. 2,700 envelopes have been
made in an hour by machinery. A manufacturer in Massachusetts writes:
"The work is considered particularly healthy. Girls from 12 years up are
employed, and earn from thirty-three to seventy-five cents a day of ten
hours. Men are paid from $1 to $2.75 per day. Two are machinists, two
overseers, and two cutters of envelopes. Women are not strong enough for
this kind of work. Some parts can be learned in a month, some in six
months, and in others it requires a year to excel. We give the same
employment and pay through the year, whether our profits are larger or
smaller. I employ about sixty, one sixth of whom are American. The work is
light, and we have constant applications from girls, who prefer this to any
other manufacturing business in town. Board, $1.50."

383. Folders and Directors of Newspapers.

The lady at F. & W.'s who directs the papers for them, says the business has
been followed by women in New York for fifteen years. I called at the
office of the Independent, and saw one of the editors, who, on learning my
business, kindly invited me into the room where the young ladies were
employed in directing strips of paper to envelop newspapers. It is a pretty
business, and well adapted to women. Some learn it easily, and some never
learn it. Dr. C. remarked: "A person may have a willing mind, but not an
obedient hand." They had one young lady who spent five months at it, and
then gave it up, because she could not succeed. It requires a peculiar
aptitude, aside from an expeditious movement of the pen. It was followed
more by women eight or nine years ago than now. Many ladies would like
to get employment of the kind, but cannot. I think all the young ladies in the
Independent office were American, and were certainly very pretty and lady-
like. They have a separate room to write in. They spend about eight hours
directing envelopes for papers to send away. One earns $6 a week, another

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$5, and another $4. The one that first came is permitted to have as much
work as she can do. The next has what she leaves, and the third the
remainder. The objections made by some men to employing ladies are that
they do not like to have women work in the same room where they are.
They feel under more restraint, and not so free to say what they please.
Such a restraint may be a wholesome one. Many women make the same
objection in regard to working with men. Again, if a lady does not work as
they wish, or is idle, they do not like to correct her, because women are
more quick to resent. The last excuse is a poor one. They also waste much
time by having their beaux call on them. Some urge they find a boy more
useful, because they can put him to doing something else, when he is not
busy writing. In the Tribune office, men are employed because they can do
it more rapidly. It is said some direct eight hundred envelopes in an hour. In
some offices the girls are expected to seal the papers, but not in all. At the
Cosmopolitan Art Association, I saw a lady that is employed in directing the
Art Journals that are sent by mail. The covers are put on by a boy. She
receives $9 a week, and spends about eight hours writing. At the rooms of
the A. C. Association, we saw three ladies directing envelopes for the report
of the society. The Association issues a monthly magazine, and at the time
of its issue employs the same ladies for the purpose of enveloping and
directing them. At other times they employ but one. She has been there ten
years, and is very efficient. She attends to the books containing the names
of subscribers, assists the treasurer sometimes, writes letters for the
secretary, and makes herself generally useful in that way. All the ladies
complained of women being so poorly paid. The one who has been there ten
years says, for the $350 a year she gets, they could not secure a young
man's services for less than $700 or $800. The others are paid 63 cents per
thousand for directing, and ten cents per hundred for sealing and directing.

384. Ink.

A large quantity of writing and printing ink is used in this country. There are
factories for making each kind. Making printing ink is hard and dirty work,
unsuitable for women. Some persons cut stencil plates and make indelible
ink, and employ agents to sell the ink and plates. Indelible, and all writing

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inks, could be made and bottled by women. Care should be taken that the
acids used do not touch the flesh. Common clothes should be worn while at
work, as both the ingredients and compound are of a kind to injure clothes.
A maker of writing ink in New York, employs three girls in summer for
bottling and labelling, and pays $3.50, working from seven till dark. He
never employed any in winter, but if his business extends, he will employ
his girls all the year, paying the same price in winter. He has found it
difficult to get good hands. The prospect for learners is poor. A
manufacturer of ink writes: "I have never yet employed female help, though
I am satisfied that most of the work in my laboratory might be as well done
by women as men. The employment is not unhealthy. My men work ten
hours a day, and are paid by the month."

385. Label Cutters.

At P. Brothers', I was told some of their labels are cut by hand, and some by
machinery. The first are square or oblong, the others are of different shapes.
Those cut with shears are most neatly done. For cutting by hand the price is
one cent per hundred. They take them home. A lady and her two daughters,
who work for them, often receive $50 a month. Those cut by machinery
could not well be cut by women. It requires practice to make one expert. B.
pays a girl by the hundred to cut labels at home. He would employ a girl to
cut and attend his store, paying $3 a week from the first, but she must not
be absent a day. If her health is such that she cannot always be there, he
does not want her. He had one three and a half years, who was absent only
ten days during that time. S. says cutting labels is always piecework, and a
good worker can earn from $4 to $6 a week. He gives them out, and they
are cut by hand. Common ones, for spices, mustard, &c., are cut by
machinery. It does not require long to become expert. The business is
always dull in December and January.

386. Lead Pencils.

The young man at the agency for the sale of Faber's pencils, says they are
made at Steinway, Germany, and he thinks women there are employed in

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varnishing the wood of the pencils and tying them up. The pencils are either
painted or the simple wood varnished. "A man in New York is reported to
have made $60,000 by selling lead pencils about the streets at a penny a
piece, and safely investing his profits." Some large pencils, such as are used
by carpenters, were some time back made in Massachusetts. The writing
part of lead pencils is made of lead and clay, mixed, pressed, and burnt. The
wooden part is in two pieces that are united when the lead is put in. In
Germany each man has his own part to do. Children do some parts of it,
such as joining the wood.

387. Operatives in Paper Factories.

Paper is of various qualities and colors, and is adapted to different purposes.
At least one half of the operatives in paper factories in the United States are
females, amounting to several thousand. Water power is used in some paper
mills, but in most large mills steam is used. Women are employed in paper
mills to sift, sort, and cut up rags. It is dusty, disagreeable work, and we
presume not particularly healthy, as much of the dust is no doubt inhaled. In
some factories, women attend the picking and cutting machines and
calenders. They are also employed for hanging, laying off, reeling, folding,
assorting, counting, enveloping, and labelling the paper. The inability to
meet fully the demand for rags in the manufacture of paper has led to
experimenting with a variety of articles. One agent for the sale of paper
made in New Jersey, and the foreman of the same establishment, told me
their girls get from $2.50 to $3 a week. The majority receive $2.50. Part
work six consecutive hours, have a rest of one hour, then six consecutive
hours more, that is from six at night till seven in the MORNING, HAVING
ONE HOUR AT MIDNIGHT; THE OTHER HALF FROM 7 A. M. till 6
P. M., having an hour at noon. The day and night workers take week about.
They board for $1.50 a week. In Lee, Mass., women get $3.50 and $4, and
the men twice as much. Women are paid best in the ruling department. In
the paper factories in New York, women receive from $3 to $5 per week.
Paper maker's girls, $1.50 to $2.50 per week. S. says, in some paper
factories girls are able to earn $6 a week. All the labor in paper mills, except
attending to the fires and machinery, could be done by women. All

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manufacturers report the occupation as healthy, except one in South Adams,
who states that small pox is sometimes taken from the rags—not often. A
paper manufacturer in Lee, Mass., writes: "Women are employed in all
countries where paper is made. The time of learning depends upon their
skill and developments in certain directions in the business. They are
usually paid by the piece. Men are paid more because their labor is greater.
Boys learn the business in about five years, girls in about one year. In
learning they generally receive enough to pay their board. They work at all
seasons—sometimes have nothing to do in July. There is a demand for
hands in the loft, a surplus in the rag room." The New England Roofing Co.
manufacture a felt, which is similar to sheathing paper, but made of a fine
stock. They employ six females in sorting rags and other materials for the
felt, and pay from $3 to $5 per week, one half the price of males. They
work eleven hours, and pay $2 per week for board. A manufacturer of
wrapping and wall paper, in Connecticut, writes "he employs a few females,
and pays fifty cents per day of from eight to ten hours. He prefers them
because most economical. Those working by the piece can earn from fifty
to seventy-five cents per day. He pays men $1 per day for doing like work.
They require less attention, and can perform other work when wanted, that
is not suitable for females to perform. He usually pays beginners the same
as others when they work by the day. His most busy time is when there is
most water for power. An active person can usually earn as much in from
six to eight hours as a house girl is paid for a full day's work." A
manufacturer at Niagara Falls "employs between forty and fifty women,
paying each from $2.50 to $4 per week, without board. They are paid about
one half less than men, because boys would do. The prospect of
employment is good. They are most busy in summer, although they run the
whole year, day and night (except Sunday). They are twelve hours on, and
twelve hours off. Board, $1.25 to $1.75. A firm in South Adams, Mass.,
write me: "We pay by the piece and the day. The prices for female labor, we
think, compared with work done, better than for male. It requires no time to
learn to cut rags, but experienced hands can earn more wages. For finishing,
from four to six months are given. Women are paid while learning. We
employ women always, when they can do the labor. Women are superior in
the neatness with which they do their work. New England, and such States
as have abundance of clear spring water, are the best. Board, from $1.25 to

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$2 per week. We think, perhaps, that at present the business of paper
making is pretty fully supplied with laborers, male and female, in this
section of the country, yet good help finds ready employment, at fair
wages." Manufacturers of bank-note paper, in Lee, Mass., inform me by
mail, they "pay by the piece, to women, from $3 to $4.50 per week. It
would require five years for a man to learn the business, so as to properly
superintend it. That portion done by women can be learned in one month."
A newspaper manufacturer in Taunton, Mass., writes: "Fifty or sixty women
are employed by me, in manufacturing cotton goods and newspaper. I pay
by the piece and the week, from $2.50 to $6 per week, depending on the
age. I give equal pay to both sexes for the same work. They are employed
the year round, and work eleven hours on the average. The climate of New
England is best adapted to indoor labor." Paper manufacturers in Dalton
write: "We pay women by the piece, from $12 to $16 per month, and they
have work all the year. No men are employed for the same kind of work.
For other branches of the business, men are paid from $25 to $35 per
month. Women are paid while learning for what they accomplish. The
prospect for work is good. We employ women because they are cheaper.
They pay for board $1.25." A firm in Russell, Mass., write: "We employ
from forty to fifty; one tenth are Americans. They can all live comfortably
and earn good wages. New England is the best part of this country for fine
paper mills, on account of the purity of the water. Board, $1.50 to $1.75."

388. Paper-Bag Makers.

At a paper-bag factory in Brooklyn, the man pays from $1.50 to $2 a week
to his girls. They work ten hours. The work is all done by hand. The bags
are considered better than those made by machinery. He has twenty-six girls
at work. Some he pays by the quantity; for some kinds, twenty cents a
hundred; for some, thirty-seven cents. Those that work by the piece have a
forewoman, with whom he makes a contract. She cleared $14 one week. It
takes but a week to learn. Work is furnished all the year. Some have worked
for him five years. Paper-bag manufacturers in Watertown, Mass., write:
"We employ six women in tending bag machines, and pay seventy cents per
day of ten and a half hours. To males we pay one third more. It requires

Page 481

about one month to learn, and all that is necessary are care and application.
Summer and fall are the best seasons, but they can have work the year
round. We will not have any but American girls. Women are more
accustomed to sitting, but cannot keep the machine in order. Their dress is
objectionable, particularly their hoops, which take up much room, and are
in danger of getting in the machinery."

389. Paper-Box Makers.

Though this may seem a trivial business, it is one very extensively carried
on. Every size and shape is called for. The most are made, we suppose, in
New York and Philadelphia, as greater demands exist there, owing to the
variety and quantity of goods manufactured and offered for sale. Boxes are
almost entirely made by women. I think most of the men in this trade in
New York are Germans. The occupation for women is pretty well filled.
The bandbox manufacture is a distinct branch. Some women, who make
small match boxes, receive but one cent for thirty boxes. At a place in New
York where seventeen girls are employed, I was told they are paid by the
piece, and some can earn as much as $5 a week. The calling can be learned
in three or four weeks. At one place, where they make bandboxes also, the
girls earn from $2 to $5. At another, they earn from $2.50 to $5. Some
seasons of the year are better than others. They have mostly American girls.
It is sometimes difficult to get good hands. They keep their hands all the
year. Spring and fall are the most busy seasons. Very little sewing is ever
done—mostly cutting and pasting. In some large factories, machinery is
used for much of the work. K. employs a number of hands all the year. They
work by the piece (customary plan), and earn from $1.50 to $6. They are
paid $1.50 per week from the time they begin to learn. He thinks there are
not more than from five hundred to six hundred females in New York
employed in his branch. There were three hundred in Philadelphia about
fifteen months ago. One paper-box maker told me he pays fifty cents a
hundred, and a smart girl can make one hundred and fifty in a day. He gives
employment all the year; his brother, in the spring and fall. The work is
always, I think, cut out by a man. B.'s girls are paid by the piece, and earn
about $4 a week. While learning, his girls are paid $2 a week. It requires but

Page 482

two or three months to become skilful. I noticed the girls in some work
rooms sat, and some stood. I was told those making small boxes sit, but
those making large boxes stand, because of the time consumed in rising to
reach the parts needed to be joined. Learners work with F. fourteen days for
nothing, and then are paid by the hundred. Some can accomplish more than
others in the same time, because they are quicker with their fingers and
apply themselves more closely. In putting on labels, it is best to stand, as it
can be done more expeditiously. It is best for girls to learn where the cheap
kind of boxes are to be made. Those that make fine boxes are seldom
willing to take learners, because of the materials that are wasted in learning.
Good hands can get work all the year; indifferent hands are likely to get out
of employment for one or two months. The girls in the trade are mostly
Irish and German. For three months, the past year, F. was out of hands. He
deserved to be all the time, for his factory was on the fifth floor, and the
steps of the open wood kind. So girls must have been very much exposed in
going up and down stairs, as every flight of stairs led to a floor on which
men were at work. At C.'s, I was told his best workers earn from $4 to $6 a
week, and are paid by the gross. They never work over ten hours, as his
work is of a large kind. In some factories, where the boxes made are small,
the girls are allowed to take work home with them to do in the evening. He
keeps his best hands all the year. He requires two weeks of learners, and
then pays them according to the amount of work done. Another box maker
gives his work to three or four families in an adjoining city. His workers
earn from $3 to $4 per week. A girl sewing small bandboxes told me she is
paid six cents a dozen, and can usually sew ten dozen a day. It takes but a
week to learn. They are most busy in spring and fall. In pasting, girls can
earn from $4 to $5 a week. The girls sewing, sat; those pasting, stood. At
another factory I was told April and September are their most busy months,
and then they take learners. Most box makers have steady work. If they are
not making boxes for one branch of trade, they are for another—
confectioners, candle makers, &c. The business is increasing. Girls can earn
from $3 to $7. There are openings in New Orleans. It is difficult to get good
hands in busy times. It takes some time to become expert. A boy remarked
to me that paper-box makers are a hard set; but I find there is considerable
jealousy and envy existing between some members of the different trades,
and consequently always make some allowance for what I hear. A firm of

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paper-box manufacturers in Connecticut write: "Women are employed by us
to run machinery, making paper boxes, &c. It is healthy, clean, neat work.
Average wages are seventy-eight cents per day, including board. Our male
help are employed at some laborious work, which females could not
perform. Average price paid men is $1.25 per day, of eleven hours. No time
is required to learn the paper-box business, but practice makes it more
remunerative. There are advantages in being in large cities; but, having no
market near, we prefer the country, on the ground of better advantages for
our help, and its being easier to procure trusty, intelligent girls to labor. Our
women have constant employment, and are superior to men in their work.
Most of them are well suited for making good wives, being from eighteen
to twenty-five years of age. Board, $1.75." B., of Philadelphia, writes: "We
pay women from $2.50 to $5 per week, working by the piece. Men's wages
are double, as they generally have families. Neatness and to be good sewers
are desirable. They generally have work the year round. The demand is
greatest in Philadelphia, New York, and the Eastern States. We employ them
because of their ability to use the needle. Women are superior in their own
branch." A manufacturer of hook-and-eye and button boxes writes: "We
employ twelve women, and pay by the piece, from $4 to $6 a week.
Women's wages are low, because of the competition in the article
manufactured. Time of learning depends upon the natural skill of the learner
—one can learn for years. The prospect for a continuance of this work is
good. The price, and fittedness for the work, recommend women to us."

390. Paper Marblers.

I saw the process of marbling—something very suitable for women, if they
would properly qualify themselves for it. The young man said a paper
marbler in Philadelphia used to employ some women to assist him, but he
had to mix their paints. A paper marbler in Boston writes: "I do not know of
any females being employed as marblers of book edges in the United States.
Some are employed in marbling paper for the covers and linings of books."

391. Paper Rulers.

Page 484

In ruling paper for blank books and ledgers, females are employed in some
establishments to feed the machine. It is not difficult to learn, though there
are not many willing to take learners, as considerable paper must be wasted
before they can become proficient. Only a few weeks are required, and they
are seldom paid while learning. $4 a week is a fair average for female
workers. Very closely connected with this branch is that of paging blank
books. It may be learned in from ten to twelve days. This is a limited
business, and would not justify many in learning. K. thinks thirty girls
would supply the demand for the whole United States. The most busy
season is from the first of July to the last of October, and they seldom refuse
any applicants during this season. March and April are also busy months.
About half the hands are retained through the dull season. The girls earn
from $5 to $6 a week; the forewoman something more. All are required to
be orderly and respectable, and there are no associations that would have an
immoral tendency. A journeyman paper ruler in Boston writes: "There are a
few girls employed in this city at ruling, i. e., where they feed on the paper,
watch the work, fixing it when it requires attention, &c. The paper is
trimmed for them, it being hard work, and requiring a man's strength to do
it. The wages are from $3 to $4.50 per week—$3.75 about the average—
and when they board away from home, pay $2 to $2.25 per week. I work by
the piece, and make sometimes $10, sometimes $16 per week; can make
$12 and $13 per week well enough, nine hours to the day. One disadvantage
females have, is, that some of them are inclined to marry when a good
opportunity is offered. I wish to be understood that this is a disadvantage
only as keeping down the price of female labor. The young man learns his
trade, then he marries. He does not quit the shop, but still improves in skill
in his trade. The female, when she marries, bids farewell to the shop and her
trade. Nine or ten hours a day is as long as girls work at our trade here. One
great objection girls have to our trade is, they do not like to soil their hands
with the ruling ink, and one cannot get through much ruling without soiling
their hands more or less."

392. Press Feeders.

Page 485

"The number of women who feed power presses in printing offices in
Philadelphia may number one hundred and fifty. They can earn, upon an
average, $4 per week." At the Methodist Book Concern, New York, they
pay to press feeders the usual price, $4 per week. It requires about six
months to become a good press feeder. When work is scarce, they retain all
their hands, if possible, but work a less number of hours, and pay in
proportion. At a blank-book manufactory I was told their girls are paid $6 a
week for feeding. Their girls think they make poor wages when they earn
but ten cents an hour. Some embossers, in Boston, who employ thirty
women in binding and press feeding, write: "They pay both by the week
and by the piece. Their women, on an average, earn $5 per week. Female
labor is thirty-three per cent. cheaper than men's, and the part done by
women is too effeminate for men. Women spend from one to two months
learning. Prospect of employment in this branch is good. The women work
ten hours. They are out of employment in summer. Board, $1.50 to $2.50."
At a printing office where from forty to fifty women were employed, I was
told the girls were mostly German, because the foreman was a German. It
requires four weeks to learn. They work ten hours a day, and are never
thrown out of employment. The demand seems to be fully met in New York.

393. Printers.

"In 1476, Fra Domenico da Pistoya and Fra Pietro da Pisa, the spiritual
directors of a Dominican convent, established a printing press within its
walls; the nuns served as compositors, and many works of considerable
value issued from this press between 1476 and 1484, when, Bartolomeo da
Pistoya dying, the nuns ceased their labors." In the Victoria Printing Office,
of London, all the compositors' work is done by women. The Printers'
Unions in the United States have done all they could to prevent women
from entering the occupation and obtaining employment. Men's
employments in the cities, they say, are now filled, and if women enter,
men's wages will fall. They do fall, at any rate, because women will work
for less than men. To obviate this difficulty, I would suggest that more men
engage in agricultural and other occupations that will take them out of the
cities. At present, the war demands large numbers. A printer told me that

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type setting could be carried on more easily by women in towns and
villages than in cities, where men are slaves to the Unions. In the latest
rules of the Printers' Union, New York, a printer is not prohibited from
working in the office with a woman. Yet few publishers are willing to
employ them, because it is supposed they are employed for less wages. At a
printers' convention, held recently in Springfield, Ill., the following
resolutions were adopted: "Whereas, the employment of females in printing
offices, as compositors, has, wherever adopted, been found a decided
benefit, both as regards the moral tendencies inculcated and the dependence
to be placed in their constant presence and attendance upon the duties
required of them, and as a means of opening a wider field of remunerative
labor to a deserving class of society; therefore, be it resolved, That the
Association recommend to its members the employment of females in their
offices, wherever and whenever practicable." Printing is mostly paid for by
the thousand ems. More is paid for printing from manuscript than for
reprint. Newspaper is paid rather higher than book printing, and morning
papers more than evening. Much has been said of the unhealthiness of a
printer's work. The majority of causes that render it so are not confined to
the occupation itself. Some printers must work during the night. Their
habits become irregular, and many run into dissipation. The rooms occupied
by some are poorly ventilated, and so poorly lighted as even in the day to
require artificial light, which helps to absorb the oxygen of the atmosphere.
When type are heated they emit an odor that affects respiration, and will in
the course of time paralyze the hand. But there is no necessity for using
them when heated. The standing position of compositors weakens the
organs of digestion; but compositors can as well sit as stand. Stools may
occasionally be seen in the offices of men. Bending over the stone to correct
is not more tiresome than bending over cloth when sewing. A good
education and general intelligence are necessary for a printer. A gentleman
connected with a printing office remarked to me that printers generally
possess much desultory information, but have not their faculties more fully
developed than people in most other trades. Women's fineness of touch and
quickness of motion will fit them for type setting. "They might be
instructed, not merely to compose and distribute, but to correct, make up,
impose forms, and prepare the type completely for the press or stereotype
foundery." A man should be employed to carry the chases to the press room.

Page 487

When the pressman has had the type inked and used them, he should have
the form washed and returned to the compositors' room. When women have
had as much experience as men in the printing business, they will be fair
competitors. In most large cities, and even towns, many are now employed
in type setting; but they are much scattered, and consequently not much is
known of them. In Boston, women have been engaged in type setting for
nearly thirty years, in New York eight years, and in Philadelphia five years.
More girls are employed as type setters in Boston than any other city of the
United States. They set type for nearly all the large periodicals. They are
paid less than men; but some earn $8 a week. F., of Boston, who employs
some women as type setters, writes: "I pay twenty cents per thousand ems,
which averages to a good hand about $6 or $7 per week. It requires about
six months to learn type setting. I pay my learners, because I consider it to
my advantage in the long run to do so. Type setters with an ordinary
education will improve as they progress. In a few years, women will work
in many branches that to-day would be termed innovation. I consider winter
the best season for printing books and periodicals. On account of neatness
and taste, women are well suited for the ornamental branches of printing."
The proprietors of a printing house in Boston, who have some thought of
employing females, write me: "The printing business is considered rather
unhealthy, on account of its being both mental and physical. It requires
from two to three years to become good workmen at our business for males,
and would take about the same time for females, although our business is
now classed composition room and press room, and females are sometimes
employed in other offices in both rooms. Our business does not vary much,
except in the month of August, when it is generally dull. Our number of
hours for work are ten, the year through. Our business is not considered
very laborious, and females make from $4 to $8 per week. Men are
generally superior to women in education and judgment. The printing
business is almost a school for learning. Board, from $1.50 to $2.50." The
largest number of printers in New York are employed on books and
periodicals. I think it likely there are more Americans employed in the
book-making trade in New York than any other trade. From an article on
"Printers," in the New York Tribune of April, 1853, we extract the
following: "We estimate the services of a competent young woman at type
setting as worth in this city $2 per week, after a fortnight—$4 per week,

Page 488

after three months—$6 per week, after a year—$8, after two years. Every
compositor on the Tribune at work at the case has thirty-seven cents per
thousand ems, and thirty cents per hour for steady time." The present price
required by members of the New York Typographical Union for newspaper
work, when employed by the week, is $12—ten hours constituting a day's
work. For book and job work $11 is required. At the Day Book office I saw
one of the editors, who thinks women do not correct so well as men, and
they want self-reliance. Besides, they cannot lift the forms. Men are paid
better for these reasons. He thinks more women might very advantageously
be employed in setting type for papers. Job printing he thinks not so well
adapted to them, because of the variety in the work, and the judgment and
self-reliance required. Two of the girls in the Day Book office have with
their earnings bought their mother a home in the country. Their girls are
more intelligent, have more pride, and dress better than most working girls.
To set type requires more intelligence than most shop girls possess. The
foreman of the same paper writes: "We employ ten women, whose
exclusive business is type setting. Seven are American women. I deem the
employment of type setting unhealthy, but not more injurious to women
than it is to men. We pay women twenty cents per thousand ems. Men
receive thirty-one cents per thousand ems in our office. Women are not as
competent to do all kinds of work as men, particularly in a newspaper
office; hence the difference in wages. The time of learning depends almost
wholly on the aptitude of the new beginner. Some persons (men as well as
women) would or could not learn the business in a lifetime. Women have
been paid while learning in this office. A knowledge of the English
language, and a disposition to improve that knowledge on all suitable
occasions, are the principal requisites. The general order of intellect did not
amount to much, when we first tried the experiment; those who have
worked steady have improved wonderfully. They work ten hours per day.
Average wages $6.50 per week in this office. With proper training and
instruction, they would be competent to do any portion of the work not
requiring too much physical exertion. The best seasons for a printer's work
depend almost wholly on circumstances. Large cities are the best places for
the printer who wishes to have steady employment." T., of New York, told
me "he employed girls for a while, and would have retained them if he
could have had time to attend to the composition department. He paid his

Page 489

girls the same price he did his men. He thinks it strange that more broken-
down ministers and worn-out school teachers do not turn to type setting, as
it is learned in a very short time, requires intelligence, and demands no
outlay of muscle. On the principle that a stout muscular man should be a
blacksmith, and a small delicate one a watchmaker, a woman should be a
type setter. A girl should begin when young. Women are no more thrown
with men in type setting than in feeding presses. In all large establishments,
type setting and press work are done in separate rooms." I think if some
lady teachers would learn the art of printing and get places as forewomen,
they could from girls obtain as much work as a foreman does from boys;
but he thinks it difficult for a foreman to be exacting with women,
particularly with those who are old enough to be sensitive and self-willed.
He thinks, "in New York, women are not so much employed in intelligent
occupations as in Boston. In the cities printers make most all their profits
off two-thirders, as they are called—boys who have not attained their
majority, and do their work as well for much less than journeymen. His son,
a boy of sixteen, earns from $5 to $6 a week as type setter." H., in New
York, employs three girls. They get $6 a week of ten hours a day. They can
sit if they choose. They have a room to work in, separate from the men. At
W.'s, opposite, a youth told me a fast worker could earn $8 a week. The
girls there were working in the same room with the men. J., of Philadelphia,
said he used to employ women to print his labels, but they demanded $6 a
week, and men he could get for $9. He told the women they were cutting
their throats in asking so much. He said women should not expect as high
wages as men, even if they did their work as well, and as much of it, for
they would thereby displace men; and besides, you could not order women
about as you could men. B., editor of the Pittsburg Commercial Journal,
employs six girls as compositors. Connected with his office are two
journeymen, who set type after 6 P. M., reporting telegraphic and local
news. All type setting should be done by women in the day, unless they
board very near, or in the house of the printing office, because of the
exposure of going home late at night. Three fourths of the work of a
printing office could be done by women. Afternoon and weekly papers
could be very well printed by ladies, as they are printed in the day. One of
B.'s lady compositors receives $7 a week, another $6, and the others $4 and
$3.50. They work eight or nine hours a day; and to a learner they pay $1.50

Page 490

a week, until she can set type correctly—then more; and in two years she
will be very nearly or quite perfect in the art. It requires quickness of eye
and finger to succeed. At the office of the Detroit Daily Democrat, girls as
apprentices are paid from $3 to $4 per week, and those advanced twenty-
five cents per thousand ems. "The compositors' office of the Ohio Farmer,
at Cleveland, has four apprentice girls. Compensation light at present, but
after the first year they will have the same that journeymen are receiving in
this place, i. e., twenty-five cents per thousand ems." A lady learning to set
type in Indiana writes: "I think the reason of the printers objecting to my
learning was that I was not required to run of errands, or, in other words, be
the 'devil' of the office, as boys are who learn the printing business. Besides,
my compensation is better than theirs, in consequence of my ability to do
more than they. I receive my board and $50 a year while learning; after that,
journeyman's wages by the week or by the thousand ems, as I prefer. In this
time I can learn to do all, except the press work, making up, &c. The girls
employed as type setters in the office receive $3 per week while learning." I
have been told that in Rochester, Buffalo, and New Haven, printing is done
more cheaply than in New York, and some publishers send their printing to
those towns to have it done. A great deal of raised printing is done for the
blind in the United States, but women do not work at that. Printers were
wanted some time back in Charleston, S. C., and when affairs become
settled in the South, we doubt not there will be many openings for printers.
An institution has been founded in Edinburg for teaching girls the art of
printing. Monsieur P. says in many of the villages of France it is difficult to
get printers. He proposes that a certain number of girls be qualified for the
work, as women are well suited to such work, and it is of a kind that pleases
those who have tried it.

394. Sealing-Wax Makers.

D., sealing-wax, ink, and mucilage manufacturer, employs two girls in
putting up carmine ink and gum mucilage, also in rolling, stamping, and
boxing sealing wax. To one he pays $5 a week, to the other $4. He employs
his girls all the year. Making sealing wax is too heavy work for women, D.
thought, and there is not much demand for the kind used in sealing letters.

Page 491

Self-sealing envelopes and mucilage have done away with both wafers and
wax. In the United States, one pound is sold where formerly one ton was
sold. Had the use of wafers increased with correspondence, it would have
been an extensive business; but the making and baking of wafers, D.
thought, was too heavy work for women. I expect it is not more so than
making and baking bread. But little ink is made in the South and West. C.
said women could not make sealing wax, because of the danger of being
about the fire. I suggested there is not more than in cooking. He said lifting
the vessels is very heavy.

395. Stereotypers.

All the first plates in this country were moulded by a Mrs. Watts, the wife of
an Englishman, who introduced the art from London. Stereotyping could be
learned by women. It is an interesting employment, but requires intelligence
and judgment. In stereotyping, one department of labor is that of correcting
metal plates. If a letter is wanting, a type is soldered in the plate. If any of
the letters or spaces are filled with superfluous metal, it is removed. I think
stereotyping an occupation well adapted to skilful and educated women. It
requires an apprenticeship of three or four years.

396. Type Rubbers and Setters.

At P. & Co.'s, I saw the whole process of type making. They employ some
women to rub type, and some to set them up. The setters earn from $1.50 to
$2 a week. It is very simple, but there is much difference in the quantity
done by different individuals. A careful and rapid manipulation is desirable
for the worker, as it is paid for by the number of types set up. The rubbers
are paid by the pound, and earn from $8 to $9 a week. Some people can rub
2,000 types in an hour. The fingers become hardened. P. & Co. do not
employ many American girls, for American girls do not like such dirty
work, and most of them dislike to work where men are. Breaking off the
jets is in some places done by women. It is a mechanical operation for
removing the inequalities of the metal, caused by the imperfect chasing of
the moulds. It requires a very rapid movement of the hand, but is not a

Page 492

laborious operation. It is said that some fast workers can break off 5,000 in
an hour. Girls are employed at type rubbing and setting, in the same room
with men. Type are cut of a soft metal, from which copper moulds are taken
for forming printers' type. It requires a steady hand, a correct eye, and some
practice to cut them, but not much strength. It could be done by women. B.
thinks the work is not unhealthy. I suppose the same objection as regards
health might be made to breaking off the jets, type rubbing, and type
setting, that is often made to the business of a compositor—that the lead in
the metal has a tendency to paralyze the arm; but I have never heard the
objection offered. B. does not pay learners. Prospect for employment
tolerable. When times are good, he keeps girls all the year. They are paid by
the quantity. The little girls can earn $2.50 each, and some of the larger
girls, who are very expert, can earn $4.50. Girls always sit in rubbing type.
In setting up, I think they can sit or stand, as they please. There will be a
demand for type so long as books and papers are printed. I suppose there
will now be an opening in the South for type founderies. W. takes learners,
and pays by the quantity from the first. All his women sit while at work. It
is not healthy work, because of the lead floating in the atmosphere being
inhaled. He can always get hands by advertising. Setters get about $2.50 a
week, and rubbers $3, and $3.50. C. says, if type rubbers are industrious
and attentive, they can earn from $3 to $7 a week. Rubbing pays better than
setting, but is quite laborious. Setters earn from $2 to $3.50, and are
generally small girls. They are always paid by the quantity. It does not
require long to learn. The prospect is good for employment. In ordinary
times they are employed all the year. At H.'s, I was told that girls are never
taught rubbing until they have learned setting, as rubbing pays best, and it is
not fair to give a learner the advantage of an old hand. Setters cannot earn
more than $2.50 a week; rubbers, from $4 to $6. He gives work all the year.
Some of his girls are always absent on Monday. He thinks there are from
700 to 800 girls in founderies in New York. His girls earn from $3 to $6 a
week. Printers, he says, are always first to suffer in a panic. A type founder
in Buffalo, writes: "I employ fifteen American girls in finishing type, and
pay by the piece. They earn from $3 to $5 per week. One day is sufficient to
learn, and nimble fingers greatly assist. Seasons make no difference with
the work. The work is easy in a warm room in winter." The proprietors of
the Boston Type Foundery sent me the following intelligence by mail: "We

Page 493

employ about twenty women in breaking, rubbing, and setting type. The
metallic dust from the type is considered unwholesome. We pay by the
piece. The girls are from ten to twenty years of age, and average from $1 to
$6 per week, working from six to nine hours. But a short time is required to
learn the parts, except rubbing, which occupies some months. They are paid
while learning. All other parts of our business, except those mentioned, are
too severe for women. The prospect for a continuance of work is tolerable."

397. Wall Paper Gilders.

Most of the wall paper used in the United States for many years past has
been made in Philadelphia, and I believe it is still thought to produce the
best qualities. There are three modes of impressing wall paper: one by
printing, another by stencilling, and the third by painting with a brush. In
the cheapest paper, the outlines are printed and the colors put on by stencil
plates. For printing, large blocks are used that are cut by hand, and for each
color a separate block must be used. This work forms a separate occupation,
that of a block cutter. For the finest papers, the outlines are printed, and then
filled by the use of the brush. The ailments of colorers of wall paper arise
principally from the coloring matter, much of which is very poisonous. "By
laboring upon arsenical paper in the finishing department, small tumors are
produced, and some have to change their occupation in consequence." At
H.'s store, Philadelphia, the young man told me they employ girls from
twelve to sixteen years of age, for putting gilding on paper. They work ten
hours, and earn from $3.50 to $4.50 a week. They merely lay gilding on,
which is fastened by the pressure of machinery. Some manufacturers have
the gilding put on with a size. At C.'s, New York, the foreman told me they
employ two girls, at $3 a week each. A powder is sprinkled on by boys,
which, by the way, could be done by girls. The girls then lay the gold leaf
on the powder. A machine then passes over the gold leaf, making an
impression by a die, of the pattern desired. Another branch of labor in
which they employed girls for a time, was the rolling of paper for the store.
It requires a peculiar tact acquired by practice only. They are paid seven
cents for 100 rolls, each roll containing eight yards. It would take a brisk
and careful hand to become at all expert three months, at which time she

Page 494

could earn about sixty cents a day, of ten hours' work. At the end of three
months more she would, perhaps, be able to earn an additional twenty cents
a day. It makes the fingers very sore, as considerable force is thrown into
the tips of the fingers. Some fingers cannot become hardened to it, and the
individual has to give it up. C——'s have work all the year, except a week
in summer, and one in winter, and when the machinery is out of repair. They
have most to do in winter, getting their paper ready for spring sale, and to
send away to the West and South. It is not unhealthy labor. Many girls
might be employed in departments now occupied by boys. At N. C. & Co.'s,
I was told by a young German that from one hundred to one hundred and
fifty boys are employed in that building, but no women or girls. There are
several parts that could be done by women. The common paper is rolled by
machinery, the fine by hand. In one factory in Boston, girls are employed to
roll, and in one in some other part of Massachusetts. Paper stainers in
Nashua, New Hampshire, write: "Women are employed in coloring and
finishing papers. The work is healthy, though all cannot use green. We pay
some by the week and some by the day: $3 per week for day hands. It
requires two or three months to learn. A light hand, quick motions, &c., are
desirable qualifications. The prospect of employment is the same as all
other branches of manufacture. Warm weather is our most busy season. The
hands spend a few weeks in the country in midsummer. We employ from
twenty to twenty-five women, and they work ten hours a day. They have the
advantages of libraries, religious services, &c., and pay for board $1.50 per
week." A wall-paper manufacturer, in Boston, writes: "The different kinds
of work and a fair knowledge of the manufacture of paper hangings must be
seen to be appreciated. For one to be capable of taking charge of a
manufactory in my line, he must devote many years of close application,
and must be a man of fine taste, in order to get up a taking style of goods, as
the success of the business, in a great measure, depends upon that, coupled
with a fine finish. The perfection of the manufacture may be all that could
be desired, but if the arrangement of the shadings of the colors were faulty,
there would be a very limited sale of them. A woman might perhaps make a
color mixer (as we call them), if the work was not too hard and too dirty.
We employ three girls to roll paper. It is light work, and they are paid from
$2 to $4 per week—day hands, ten hours. The time to learn depends upon
the capacity of the learner—say a month. The women are not out of

Page 495

employment long. The women are mostly foreign, and can make a
comfortable living if they choose. Women have not sufficient strength for
some parts of our work."

Page 496

CHEMICALS.

398. Chemicals.

One chemist wrote me that some part of the work in the manufacture of
chemicals is wet and disagreeable. Another writes that "women are not
employed in that branch in this country, but may possibly be employed in
England, Germany, and France; but if at all, only to a small extent. The
employment is not generally unhealthy. To learn it in all its details, a pretty
thorough knowledge of chemistry ought to be acquired. But a short time is
required to learn the ordinary part of the business. The prospect of the
employment of women is slight, but your inquiries have, however,
suggested the idea and possibility of employing women to a small extent.
Men in chemical works are employed at all seasons, and constantly for
eleven hours per day. No particular locality has advantage over another,
except its proximity to market. Uneducated persons, of ordinary intellect,
can be employed to some extent in the labor." Another informant writes:
"The manufacture of those chemicals most largely used in the arts, requires
laborious work. It is, besides, rather severe on the clothes and hands, and is
entirely unsuitable for women. There is, perhaps, room for the employment
of women in the manufacture of the finer chemicals, but rather in the way
of putting up than in the manufacture itself. We are not engaged in this
branch. The demand for pure chemicals is so very limited, that only
regularly educated chemists engage in the business, and they do most of the
nice work themselves. There is nothing to hinder women from studying
practical chemistry, but there are few chances for educated chemists; and
there are more than men enough to take all the places that are to be filled."
A manufacturer of acids writes: "We employ no female labor in our
establishment, it being heavy work, not suitable for them." The present style
of female dress would be inconvenient, if not dangerous, in the preparation
of such chemicals as require the operator to be near the fire. This difficulty,
however, could be obviated.

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399. Baking Powders.

D. employs girls to put up baking powders, spices, &c. It is piecework. A
very brisk hand can earn $5 a week, but few can do so. They work longest
in summer days. They like to close early enough to give their girls time to
get home before it is very late. Mechanical talent only is necessary.

400. Bar and Soft Soap.

Large quantities of soap are made in the United States. That sold in
groceries is made mostly in towns or the country. It is hardened by muriate
of soda, and called bar soap. That used by people in the country is generally
of their own make, and called soft soap. In New York, we observed in some
groceries barrels of soft soap of a very light color, almost white. Vegetable
substances were used previous to the invention of soap, for washing the
person and garments. A plant growing in California is said to yield a very
good substitute. Some kinds of earth, mixed with lye ashes, have been used.
Making soap in large quantities would be very heavy work for women. A
machine has been invented for cutting soap into bars, which will doubtless
in time do away with the primitive plan of cutting it with wires. At a soap
factory, a man told us that women are never employed in factories in
making coarse soap. Attending the kettles could not be well done by them.
The only part that could be done would be cutting it in bars, but that is
rather too hard, on account of the strain and change of position. It is cut
with wire after it has become hard.

401. Blacking.

In London, in 1852, there were, by Mayhew's estimate, one hundred and
fifty women and girls selling cake blacking. M., manufacturer, Philadelphia,
occupies a four-story granite-fronted building. He employs about fifty
women in making tin boxes, filling them with blacking in paste, and
labelling them. It requires but a few weeks for a smart girl to acquire
dexterity. We saw the women at work in two large rooms (each being the
whole floor of the house). They looked cheerful, though somewhat grimy.

Page 498

They work ten hours, and earn about $3 a week. The steady hands are kept
in work the year round. The tin boxes pass, almost with the swiftness of
thought, through eight hands, three of these operations being performed by
steam machinery, tended by women. The boxes are soldered by men, who
receive $6 per week. It was once done by women, but is right warm work,
particularly in summer. All stood while at work, except the women sorting
bands. The premises had been rendered as healthy as possible. All the small
pipes of the soldering stoves led into one large pipe, which carries off the
fumes of the coal; and a cylinder has been made to confine a white powder
which is used in the business, and which formerly floated through the
atmosphere of the work rooms. The women are sometimes employed in
bottling ink, and earn from $2 to $3 a week, working about the usual time—
ten hours.

402. Candles.

Candles are made of different materials, of which wax, tallow, and
spermaceti are most common. Some candle makers employ women to
prepare the wax for candles. Candle manufacturers write us: "Women are
never employed in our business, and we never heard of their being so
employed. We consider the work too heavy, and too cold. The principal part
of the work is done in winter, and the manufacturing rooms must be kept
cold. Women were at one time employed in cutting and preparing the wick
for candles; but since the introduction of machinery, that part is dispensed
with." A manufacturer writes from another city: "Men sometimes work all
night, at the season when the nights are long. The only place, I think, where
there can be a demand for female labor in my branch, is where there are no
men." Another informant writes: "I think women could not be to any
considerable extent employed in making soap and candles, for several
reasons: 1st. It is for the most part a heavy business, requiring more than
female strength. 2d. It is objectionable on account of the dirt, which is the
result of coming in contact with tallow, &c." Another says: "Our plan for
moulding is too heavy for women to work at." At an oil and candle
manufactory, New York, I was told they used to employ some women in
putting wicks into moulds, drawing candles, and packing them. Machinery

Page 499

is so much used now, that women cannot do as much of it as they did.
Besides, candles are not used so much as they were, owing to the
introduction of gas and various oils. They paid their girls $4 a week. They
now employ one woman in putting the wicks in moulds for wax candles,
and drawing and packing them. J. employs two women in making sperm
candles, but they have been at it twenty years. They each get $4 a week. M
—s, New York, write: "We employ six women in making and packing
candles. They are so employed in France and England, and very likely in
Germany. The work is not unhealthy. Our women are paid from $2.50 to $4
per week, of ten hours a day. They are generally paid by the week, though
sometimes by the piece. Men's wages are from $9 to $12. We know of no
reason why women are paid less, except that it is the general custom. It
requires from two to three weeks to learn. Women are paid while learning.
Dexterity of the hands is the best qualification for a worker. The occupation
is gradually decreasing. There is no material difference in the seasons for
work. Women are sometimes thrown out of employment in the summer
months. We employ women because they are more nimble fingered than
men, and female labor is cheaper. Workwomen are more apt to get in
trouble among themselves, where many are employed, and are more
difficult to control. We have generally found them more careless and less
uniform in their work than men; so much so, that their employment is
constantly diminishing in our work, being replaced by machinery. We find
them in no way superior to men, except their nimble fingers." We place
against this the preliminary report to the United States Census of 1860,
where one hundred and forty-two women are returned as being employed in
soap and candle manufactures.

403. Chalk.

I saw a man making prepared chalk. He sometimes employs small girls to
put it in boxes, and pays from seventy-five cents to $2 per week. They work
ten hours a day. There is nothing unhealthy in it. He thinks there are but few
manufacturers of it, and consequently there is not much prospect for
employment.

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404. Emery Paper.

G. would be willing to employ girls to pack and tie up emery paper, paying
$3.50 a week. It is dirty work, on account of the glue that is used, and is
very severe on the fingers, causing the blood to flow often, and
unfortunately does not harden the fingers by practice.

405. Fancy Soaps.

Some of the fancy soaps of American manufacture are equal to any in the
world. Those of Bazin, Philadelphia, are considered best. Those of Jules
Hauel and Harrison are nearly equal. There are other manufacturers of
fancy soap in the United States. On Spruce street, Philadelphia, is a place
where they employ girls to put up fancy soaps, and pay by the piece, from
$2 to $5 per week. L., New York, employs girls by the week, for from $2 to
$3.50. It requires practice to put up either soap or perfumery. They are most
busy in spring and fall. None made South or West. L. has lost the custom of
shop girls by the hard times. They have no money now to spend for fancy
soap and hair oil.

406. Fire Works.

Two hundred and eleven females are reported in the census of Great Britain
as being employed in making fire works. S. & Co., New York, employ ten
or twelve women for pasting the paper covers on fire works, but not for
filling with powder. All the work is done in daylight. They are paid
something while learning, and then from $3 to $5 a week. For overwork,
they are paid by the hour. Their factory is in Greenville, N. J. There is one
in Cincinnati, one in Boston, and one in Philadelphia. Girls sit while at
work. The prospect for learners is good. S. & Co. are most busy in spring
and summer but able to keep their hands employed all the year. They have a
great many children employed on Long Island, in making torpedoes, who
cannot earn more than $1.50 a week.

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407. Flavoring Extracts.

Manufacturers in Rochester write: "We have about twenty women engaged
in putting up and packing perfumery, &c., and pay from $2 to $3 per week.
A smart girl will learn in a week. Quickness of movement and steadiness of
habit are the best qualifications. The prospect of work in this line is good.
They are employed all the year, and work ten hours a day." C., of Boston,
employs a number, "because they can work cheaper than men. They are
paid by the day or week, according to their experience. Good workers earn
50 cents a day, of nine hours. To thoroughly understand the business
requires a lifetime. Women's part of the work is learned in six months.
Women are paid while learning. All seasons are alike. The work is easy, and
the pay good. Board, $1.50." H. C. & Co., of Boston say: "In compliance
with your wishes, we give below answers to your inquiries. We manufacture
perfumery, cooking extracts, hair oils, &c. We employ females to bottle and
label them. We pay by the amount of labor done, and the average earnings
are about $4 per week. Why women are not generally better paid is a
difficult question to answer. We think, however, the argument is good that
they do not as a general thing have family expenses to bear. If they were
taxed (are not those that own property?) and also bore a proportionate share
of family expenses, there is no good reason why they should not have the
same pay for the same labor as males. (Have not the majority of
workwomen some one dependent upon them, even with their scanty
wages?) The work may be learned in a few weeks. An aptness and tact to
handle small bottles, to tie ribbons, and cut corks quickly, best fit one for
this work. There is a constant demand for the kind of goods we
manufacture. Our females work ten hours a day, and their employment is
steady. The work is clean and comfortable; the remuneration, we think, just.
Women are superior to men, from being quicker in their movements and
displaying better taste. Board, $2.50." Other manufacturers in Boston write:
"We employ ten American women, because they do the work cheaper than
men could. We pay by the piece. They earn $6 a week, and receive three
fourths of the wages of men. They are paid $3 per week while learning.
Women are inferior in business capacity, superior in details. Board, $3 per
week."

Page 502

408. Glue.

Glue is made from the parings of hides, and refuse leather. First they are put
in alkaline water to be cleaned, and then boiled in large vessels. The liquid
is poured off from the gelatine which coats the vessel and forms in sheets. I
think women might spread the substance on nets in drying rooms, and,
when dry, cut it and pack it. It is cut by wires having handles, which are
held in the hand, to assist in pressing the wire with more force across the
glue. S. employs several girls, who earn from $3 to $6 per week. He pays
by the gross. Most of the girls have been with him ever since he
commenced manufacturing, eight years ago.

409. Gunpowder.

The agent of the Hazard Gunpowder Company told me they employ at the
manufacture as many of the widows and children of those killed by
explosions as they can, in making linen covers for kegs, and putting
gunpowder in envelopes, and cutting labels, and putting on them. D. writes
to an acquaintance for us: "We employ women at times in labelling
canisters, and then only two."

410. Oils.

A manufacturer of machine oil says a lady that understands the business
could give men orders, and keep the office, and so carry on the business;
but the work is too warm for women, and too laborious. It is certainly
greasy work, and therefore hard on clothes. A manufacturer of oil writes me
"he thinks the business not at all suitable for women: the only part that
could be done by them is such as pertains to the office, which would be the
same as that of other merchants." The manufacture of hair oils forms an
extensive business. A manufacturer of linseed oil told me he could employ a
woman to remove the seed from the bags, after the oil has been pressed out,
but it would be greasy work. Some oil manufacturers told me they would
employ girls to put oil in bottles for sewing machines. They would also be

Page 503

willing to employ female agents to sell oil for sewing machines. If a lady
could sell twelve bottles a day, at 25 cents a bottle, she could make $1.75.

411. Paints.

Oil paint is so disagreeable to handle and put up in such large quantities that
it is unsuitable work for women. An English workman in B. & I.'s factory
told us that women are employed in the paint factories in London and Hull
as extensively as men. What they do we could not exactly learn, except that
they put the powder for paint in cans, and label them. The man said the
business is pernicious to the health. Ex-Mayor T. employed some women in
his color factory at Manhattanville to label. At O.'s Philadelphia, a few
women are employed in moulding the cakes of water paints, and stamping
them, and in tubing and packing fine oil paints. A paint manufacturer in
Brooklyn writes: "The only way we can employ females is at putting up
paint dry in six-pound boxes or in cans. This last is ground in oil. We have
generally employed boys for this purpose, but I think females would suit
better, provided they were kept by themselves. If this could be done, we
might be able to employ from four to five hands. The work is rather
unhealthy, as it affects the lungs. We pay one woman $4 per week, working
ten hours a day. It requires a week to learn. We do not work for four months
in winter. Cleanliness and tact are necessary for putting up goods. Women
would attend to their work better than boys."

412. Patent Medicines.

Women are very extensively employed in putting up patent medicines. At
H.'s, Philadelphia, where extract of ginger is made, they once employed
women in the summer. They prefer boys and men, because in intervals men
and boys can do other work that women cannot. Women were only
employed by them to put up, seal, and label. Where H.'s bitters are made,
women are employed to envelop, seal, and label, and paid according to the
industry and skill of the workers. They receive from $3 to $4 a week. Dr.
Ayres, I have been told, has his medicine put up by females in Canada,

Page 504

because he can have it done there more cheaply, although a duty of 15 per
cent. is paid for importing.

413. Pearlash.

Women could make pearlash in the country, where large quantities of wood
are burned in clearing off land, and would no doubt find it pay very well for
the trouble.

414. Perfumery.

Perfumeries have been used in oriental countries from the most remote
ages. The finest and most costly perfumes are still brought from the East.
They were much used in England about the time of Queen Elizabeth. The
essential oil of plants confers their odors. This oil may be obtained by
expression, infusion, or distillation. In some cases, it may be pressed out of
the cellular structure that contains it. Roses and such plants are mostly
steeped in water, but some plants are steeped in wine and similar
substances. There is a difference in oils obtained from different parts of the
same plant; for instance, the leaves, flowers, and fruit of the orange tree
yield distinct oils. The perfumeries of France have the best reputation of
any others. Considerable perfumery is manufactured in this country, that
meets with a ready sale at a good profit. At J. H.'s, Philadelphia, the woman
who superintends others employed in putting up perfumery, told me that the
hands work three months before they are paid. They then receive from
$1.50 to $5 a week. It would require two years, she thinks, to acquire
proficiency. J. H. finds employment for his hands all the year round. The
girls cut kid for the tops, tie them on, label the bottles, lay them in cotton in
small boxes, and then put them in large boxes ready for nailing and sending
away. The girls each perform the entire process. It is not divided into
separate branches. Sometimes they are employed in putting up fine soaps.
The labels are all imported from France. They sit while employed, and
spend from ten to twelve hours at it, according to the work on hand. R. says
some perfumery is made by machinery and some by hand. He thinks a
woman should spend from six months to one year learning to put up

Page 505

perfumery, as it must be done very neatly. He pays his girls, while learning,
$2.50 a week, and after that according to ability and industry. The business
is now dull, for people cannot afford to indulge in luxuries. At P.'s
perfumery manufactory, I learned that the girls work from 7½ to 6, and earn
from $2 to $8 per week—the average, $3.50. They are mostly Americans.
Spring and fall are the best seasons, but they keep them all the year. They
have many applications, but are often puzzled to get enough of good hands.
Girls do better than men for putting up perfumery. It requires some taste.
Poor workers are very destructive, for the articles of which some
perfumeries are made are very costly. There are employed in packing fancy
soap and preparing perfumery, between six hundred and seven hundred
girls, in New York; average wages, $4. A manufacturer of hair oil pays his
men from $10 to $15 per week. Good taste and a quick hand are the
requisites. Near a city is the best location. At H.'s perfumery and fancy soap
manufactory, one of the firm told me they "import" Frenchmen to make the
perfumery, who impart to them the secret, and they furnish the materials.
Their busy season commences in January. They pay their girls from the
first, but not much until they get to working well. It requires some time to
become expert and tasteful in putting up perfumery. They are paid by the
piece (customary plan), but do not work over ten hours, as it is all done at
the factory. They can earn from $3 to $9 a week. They keep their hands all
the year, but in busy times employ extra hands. They employ a number of
girls in making boxes, who earn about $3 a week. P. & F. employ one
woman, paying $3.50 a week. P. told me such work is usually paid for by
the gross, and workers earn about $4.50. The business is likely to increase.
No manufactures West or South. It requires six months to become expert.
Vacancies are often occurring among the hands. Some are employed in
label cutting some in filling bottles, corking, tying, labelling, and boxing,
while others envelop and seal the soap. They sit most of the time, but
change their position every little while. There is but one establishment of
the kind west of Philadelphia, and that is in Cincinnati.

415. Quinine.

Page 506

At P. & W.'s laboratory, Philadelphia, they employ a number of girls in
weighing and putting up quinine, calomel, &c., to send away. The girls
work eight hours in winter and nine in summer, and receive from $3 to $9 a
week. The employment is thought not to be healthy. It changes the fairest
complexion to a sallow, just as the taking of the medicine would. The air of
the room where we sat, and where the girls were corking, sealing,
enveloping, and labelling, was strongly impregnated with the quinine. It
was so offensive that I could not rid myself of the taste for several hours
after I left the room. In one apartment a man and woman were weighing the
article. The woman wore a bandage over her mouth and a muslin cap on her
head, and spectacles with large, dark, convex frames, to prevent the quinine
from getting in her eyes, as it turns the white of the eye yellow. The women
had each their own apartment of labor. They looked as healthy as you
generally see, but I do not know how they may have looked when they
commenced working there. The lady who accompanied me, said her friend
had fallen off very much and lost the beauty of her complexion while
working there during the last two years.

416. Salt.

"In certain cities, especially at Dieppe, France, women have the business of
carrying salt; it is a monopoly which has belonged to them from time
immemorial. They form a corporation, have a syndic, and salt in the sack
cannot, in this city, be transported from the vessel to the depots or
warehouses by any but them." According to the statistics of the salt
manufacture in 1850, there were 2,699 males employed and 87 females in
the United States. Water from the ocean, lakes, and salt springs, I suppose,
could be boiled by women. A rock-salt manufacturer writes: "Women might
do some of our work better than a man; but one man can tend the hopper
and tie as fast as another can fill. The best salt for dairy purposes is
imported, and therefore a seaport is the best place for our business." A
manufacturer in Barnstable, Mass., writes: "Women are not employed in my
branch of industry, as far as my knowledge extends, in making salt; but,
when it is ground for table use, women are sometimes employed in making
the bags to put the salt in. They formerly made good wages in this business;

Page 507

but, since sewing machines have come into almost general use, the price of
labor has fallen, and I am not posted as to the price now paid, as most of the
ground salt and the bags are manufactured in Boston. Working with salt is
very healthy. We manufacture our salt between the 1st of April and the last
of October, by solar evaporation; but very little if any salt can be made in
this way after the latter month, as the sun runs too low for salt making. Our
works are provided with covers, which require too hard labor for women to
shove on as rain approaches, and to be opened every fair day. Women can,
and occasionally do lend a hand in this business; but it is too laborious.
Then, the salt has to be taken out by men with shovels, and this is too hard
labor for women. They might assist in drawing the water from one room to
another, by simply taking out and putting in plugs; but under a hot summer's
sun, we think our business entirely unsuitable for them. In the winter, we
manufacture epsom salts; but even this work we consider too laborious for
women." A salt manufacturer in South Yarmouth, Maine, writes: "I believe
women are employed in the mills in Boston for grinding salt, in making the
bags, putting it up, &c., for table use. Otherwise, the service is too hard."
Manufacturers in Syracuse, N. Y., say "they have but a limited number of
women employed in making sacks. The most of their sacks are furnished by
the manufacturing establishments." Salt clarifiers in Burlington, Vt., write:
"We employ one woman, because it is cheaper to do so. We pay her $4 per
week—a man we would have to pay $6. The work is healthy, and women's
part soon learned. Spring and summer are the best seasons. The prospect for
work in this line is good. Board, $1.70 per week." A gentleman in the salt
business at Geddes, N. Y., writes: "There used to be employed far more
women than now in making bags to hold dairy or bag salt. Now, sewing
machines have entirely superseded them in this branch of our business.
During the summer season, formerly, there were from one hundred to three
hundred women at bag making. There are now, say one hundred or more
women engaged in packing and filling the barrels with salt. They are all
foreigners. It is dirty, heavy, and laborious work, and not suitable for
women, but is extremely healthy. No difference is made in the price paid
men and women, all being paid by the piece, and earning from 75 cents to
$1 per day. A strong woman can learn very soon. The amount of work,
probably, will not change much in future. The work is done only in the
summer season. A large proportion of all the salt made in this country is

Page 508

made here. The annual product of our salt springs is about seven million
bushels salt, produced at an expense for labor of not less than ten cents per
bushel. Nearly all is paid to men, Irish and Dutch getting the most of it. A
very small part of the work, if any, is adapted to women. Most of our
women workers are the wives or mothers of men and boys who fasten
hoops on barrels. Most of the salt at Syracuse, N. Y., is made by boiling
down the water that springs from artesian wells. At Turk's Island, salt is
made by simply digging vats in the meadow and throwing the water into
them. As it rarely rains there for a number of months, they require no
covering to their works, and have only to take out the salt and stack it up
when it is made."

417. Soda.

I find that in factories of this kind, girls are not employed in this country,
except for putting the article in papers. They are paid from twelve to sixteen
cents per hundred, according to the size. At a factory I saw many at work.
They looked very neat. All wore clean calico dresses, and snow-white
handkerchiefs over their heads, to prevent the soda from lodging in their
hair. They must inhale considerable of it, as the atmosphere was strongly
impregnated. One of the workers told me they are paid eighteen cents per
hundred packages, which were rather large. A box contained sixty packages.
Some are able to put up as many as seven hundred packages a day. The
proprietor and one of the girls said it was not unhealthy work; but it is my
impression that it is, if worked at constantly. It requires but a week to get in
the way of doing it, and expertness is gained by practice. They work all the
year, but sometimes there is not much to do. They are most busy in spring
and fall. Some of the hands live near; so, in slack times, if the proprietor
receives an order to be filled, he sends immediately for his girls. At another
factory, I was told September and October are the most busy months for
their hands. They cannot send much away in winter, because the rivers are
closed and railroad freight is high. Soda, I was told, is more used in the
South than saleratus. Some of their girls are paid by the week, and some by
the box. They earn from $3 to $4. The gentleman said the dust was
disagreeable, but not unhealthy. Their girls stand while at work.

Page 509

418. Starch.

A large number of plants and vegetable substances contain starch. Wheat,
potatoes, rice, and maize are the principal. It is also found in the seeds and
stems of plants. It is not soluble in cold water, consequently may be easily
washed out of any vegetable substance. For those from which it cannot be
so removed chemical decomposition may be employed. Manufacturers
write us: "The making of starch is hard and unsuitable work for females;
but girls are employed to put up the starch in papers and label it, receiving
from thirty-seven to seventy-five cents a day, according to what the worker
accomplishes." The following intelligence we received from the Oswego
factory: "We employ from fifteen to twenty women, because we find them
more attentive than boys. They paste labels on packages of starch, and
receive thirty-seven and a half cents per day, of from eight to ten hours. A
smart girl can learn in a few hours. The prospect of employment in future is
good. They are paid the same that boys would be, and have work the year
round. There are no parts suitable for women, in which they are not
engaged. Board, $1.25 to $1.50."

419. White Lead.

At the store of a white lead manufacturer, I was told they employ a number
of girls, when busy, to label the tin cans. The making of white lead is
unhealthy, and, I suppose, very disagreeable work. Women are employed in
England in the manufacture of white lead.

420. Whiting.

This article is used for cleaning silver, and one preparation of it for the face.
There are not more than from twelve to twenty women at the work in the
United States. B. used to employ women, and paid by the pound. The
women earned about $3 a week, of ten hours. They were employed merely
in putting up the article.

Page 510

COMMUNICATING MEDIUMS BETWEEN EMPLOYERS
AND OTHERS.

421. Assistants in Public and Benevolent Institutions.

There is a wide field of usefulness open to ladies, as matrons in charitable
institutions. Blessed is the influence a woman exerts as a matron, if she is a
kind, good woman. Her responsibilities are great, but a consciousness of the
vast amount of good she may accomplish should reconcile her to them. The
discharge of her duties will often cast her in the society of visitors, many of
whom are refined and educated people. In reformatory institutions for
children, a matron may do incalculable good. The female department of
almshouses, lunatic asylums, hospitals, prisons, workhouses, and all other
public and charitable institutions, should be in the hands of women. They
can exert a better influence. They know better the wants of their sister
women. They can enter into their feelings. They can check familiarities
with the male inmates, and exert more influence when temptation is offered.
In short, they are women, and know a woman's heart. Orphan, and deaf and
dumb asylums, houses of refuge, eye and ear infirmaries, schools for
imbecile children, and all such places, should be managed by women, as far
as practicable. The managers of the home department of such institutions
should be firm and efficient, yet kind hearted. Nor should merely the filling
of these offices be given to women, but there should be a number of lady
visitors to coöperate with the managers. They can often suggest many
improvements for the comfort and health of the inmates, that would escape
the notice of men. I was told by a friend, now deceased, who took an active
part in establishing and advancing benevolent institutions, that she found it
very difficult to obtain matrons, seamstresses, and tailoresses, willing and
competent to instruct the inmates of the institutions in their various
branches of labor. She thought it would be well to instruct women so
thoroughly in their business that they might efficiently impart a knowledge
of it to others. She thought there should be a house where women and girls

Page 511

could be properly prepared to perform the duties of cooks, nurses, and
house servants. A lady friend suggested that many of the situations in the
public institutions of New York might be filled by some of the women who
are now keeping boarding houses, and so, the pressure in that quarter being
removed, there would be fairer and fuller play to those that are left in the
occupation. A principal reason of the order and cleanliness of the
workhouses in Holland, is the attention and humanity of the governesses;
for each house has four, who take charge of the inspection, and have their
names painted in the room. For the moral management of convicts, men are
systematically trained in some countries of Europe. In the hospitals, prisons,
and reformatory institutions of England, supported by the government,
women are employed. They are even eligible as overseers of the poor. The
President of the Board of Public Institutions in New York city furnished me
with answers to questions in regard to the women employed therein, as
follows: "Women are employed as matrons, nurses, and laborers in this city,
and on Blackwell's and Randall's islands. They receive from $5 per month
to $430 per annum, and are paid by the month. The labor performed,
properly belongs to women, although we employ some men for part of the
same labor, but their pay is about the same. There is no need of an
apprenticeship to become familiar with their employments, and the only
special qualifications are health and strength. There is no difference as to
seasons with us. They work only as many hours as are necessary. The
demand for those occupying this position grows out of the number of the
destitute and criminal thrown on our hands. About twenty-five per cent.
employed are Americans. We employ women in all work for which they are
suited. The more intelligent are selected for the most responsible positions.
If so disposed, they have ample time for mental and moral culture. They
live where they labor, and their places of residence are comfortable." Each
of the janitresses of the public schools of New York receives a salary of
from $100 to $400 per annum. At the Tombs of New York, a woman has
charge of the department where the female convicts are. At a meeting of
ladies in Dublin, for the employment of women, Mr. McFarlane said that
"for the last twenty-five years, the Grangegorman Penitentiary had been
under the management of a lady, and it had been most admirably
conducted."

Page 512

422. Commissioners of Deeds.

There are about two hundred in the city of New York, and, with a moderate
run of custom, each can make several hundred dollars per annum. Their
duties are very light, and, I have been told, could as well be performed by
women as men.

423. Housekeepers.

A kind, yet decided manner, will more effectually govern a household than
fretting and scolding. A portion of time should be regularly set aside for
servants to feel as their own. It will often prove a matter of economy to
those who exact work of them. Those of principle will work more
diligently. Everybody needs some rest. Gain the good will and confidence
of servants, and they will reward you in the labor of their stronger muscles.
But avoid familiarity, by all means. Much of the long, wearing toil of
servants might be avoided by consideration and management on the part of
a housekeeper. Domestics labor hard, and much of the comfort of a family
depends on them. Do not accuse on suspicion those in your employ of
doing or having done wrong. Be careful of the reputation of others,
particularly dependent females. A man of standing, to whom I expressed the
desire that more occupations should be opened to women, expressed the
wish that our domestics should be Americans, and of a more intelligent
class. An effort should be made to elevate the standard of servants, he said,
to induce more respectable and intelligent women to enter domestic service.
Those engaged in it, he thought, should find something else to do, and will
be pushed out as a more competent class enter. I would prefer to see our
present class of servants fit themselves better for the discharge of their
duties, and American girls enter occupations of a more refined and exalted
nature. The same gentleman referred to, stated that his servants each receive
$2 a week, dress handsomely, and lay by money. (?) They do better for
themselves, he remarked, than the girls in his bookbindery. In some of the
convents of France, the sisters go through a course of training to prepare
them for the duties of housekeepers, and are then sent to take charge of
religious and charitable institutions connected with their church. Why might

Page 513

not some such plan be pursued by Protestants? Says an English review: "In
Germany, the employment of women in the offices of house-steward, maitre
d'hotel, butler or lackey, sanctioned by universal custom, is not considered
so incompatible as it would be with us, with the other branches of a first-
rate establishment."

424. Keepers of Intelligence Offices.

Intelligence offices are established for the purpose of giving information to
or respecting persons seeking employment. They are individual enterprises.
From fifty cents to $1 is paid by an applicant for information of persons
desiring one of such capacity as they seek to fill. The same price is paid by
the person seeking an assistant or domestic. Most offices are limited to
supplying domestics; but one or more might be established for the supply of
seamstresses, saleswomen, milliners, dress makers, &c. Girls often find it
an advantage to apply at an office, if they have not friends to interest
themselves and secure them situations. But they should be particular to
know the character of the office they patronize. A lady remarked to me, if a
girl was willing to spend a year in a family where she could be well
instructed for her work, she could then be sure of a good home and fair
wages. Servant girls are universally complained of at the North. Many of
them are very exacting. Most are raw Irish girls, who think, when they
come to this country, everybody is equal. Consequently, they do not know
their places as they do in the old country, where there are distinct grades in
society. Another thing that makes some so trifling is that such swarms
come, and they are so ignorant, and many of them so corrupt, that they
instigate each other. I was told, by the keeper of an intelligence office, that
girls and women always ask more than they expect to get. Some cooks get
as high as $20 a month. They are mostly French and German. Now and then
he has a good American. He has a lady in attendance that can speak French
and German. His terms are fifty cents a month from the employer, and the
same from the employée. It gives the privileges of the office for one or two
months. Few are willing to go to the country. Many girls come from the
country that do not know where to board. The keeper of the office sends
them to a cheap but respectable house. His office is open from eight to five.

Page 514

To employers he sends a blank certificate of character, to be filled when the
servant leaves. There is a Protestant office in Philadelphia, and one or more
in New York. At an intelligence office on Grand street, where girls pay fifty
cents and the employer fifty cents, the girl has the privilege of being
supplied with places for two months, if she remains on trial the time
specified by agreement with her various employers. If not, she forfeits the
privilege. This office had a servants' home connected with it, that is, a
boarding house for servants out of employ. The girls paid $2 a week. A
training school was connected with this, in which the servants received
instructions in cooking and the various details of housekeeping. The
cooking of the boarding house was done by some of the number. He failed
in his enterprise, he said, from want of capital. One has been in operation in
England for eight years very successfully, connected with which is a
training school. They have few Americans to apply for places; for
Americans like lighter work, as nursing, sewing, being lady's maid, &c. In
summer there is a scarcity of girls, for they go to the country and watering
places to cook and do housework. In the fall they flock to the city, and there
are more applicants than situations. At some offices the privilege is
accorded for three months, and at some only one month. A lady who keeps
an office in Williamsburg told me, when the girls come to her, she takes
their names and qualifications. She receives the calls of ladies wanting girls,
and also records their wants. After five o'clock, and on Saturday after two
o'clock, the office is closed, and she then compares the wants of employers
and employées, and makes out a corresponding list. Next day she sends
girls to their places. I could have got a lady's maid for $5 a month with
board and lodging. I saw a lady securing a nurse for her child at the same
price. Fifty cents is the fee for the privilege of her office for three months.
She furnishes girls during that time until the mistress is satisfied; and the
girl pays the same, and is furnished with places for three months until she is
satisfied. She does not require references from her girls, but sends the lady
to the last employer of the girl. I called at Mrs. Y.'s office, New York. Girls,
she says, get different prices in different States. In wealthy States, as
Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Southern States, they get good prices.
In Cincinnati, and the States of Wisconsin and New Jersey, poor prices. She
sends many from the city to every part of the United States. People write to
her, inclosing the money for the girl's passage. She then buys her a ticket

Page 515

and provisions, and sends her on; but the arrangement is always for a year
or six months, as people are not willing to incur the expense of paying the
passage of a girl for less time. She could get many more places for girls, if
they would go to the country; but they do not wish to go, and, if
dissatisfied, be at the expense of returning. The girl may be deceived, by
finding there are twice as many in the family as represented, or the work is
much harder. Mrs. Y. learns the character of a girl that applies to her, and
then registers it in her book. So ladies applying for a girl have from her the
true character. She has no difficulty in finding places for her girls. She is
always busy but on a rainy day. People object to having an intelligence
office near them, as the girls are inclined to stand about the door. It is said
that the majority of the keepers of intelligence offices furnish the best
places to those by whom they are bribed. A few years ago, the number of
white female servants in New York city was estimated at 100,000, that of
Boston 50,000, Philadelphia 30,000, and Baltimore 20,000. There is a lady
in Boston who goes around among her friends and secures to them good
domestics, receiving some compensation for her services—I think, fifty
cents a domestic. When the influence of servants over children is
considered, I think parents cannot be too careful in the selection of their
servants; and to obtain good ones, they should be willing to pay a fair price.
There is a waste of time to girls sitting in offices, and a risk run of being
sent, by a person of whose moral character they know nothing, to a house
that may prove the wreck of their virtue. At a boarding house and
intelligence office for workwomen, the lady told me they charge $2 a week
for board, allowing the privilege of the wash room, and of sitting in the
parlor in the evening, which is warmed and contains a piano. To those who
cannot pay as much as this, they charge from $1 to $1.25, giving them
rooms in the attic. They have been applied to often for persons of a higher
class than usually frequent intelligence offices, but only until since the
times have been so hard have they had such applicants. I was told, at
another office, they seldom have American girls apply for places, except as
house girls, and they are mostly girls who have worked in factories. They
send girls to California and all parts of the United States, and they have
some who travel through Europe in the capacity of ladies' maids. Their
office is open from nine to five o'clock. When a girl is sent for from another
place, the money is sent by express and a receipt taken, or by mail, and a

Page 516

receipt taken at the post office. One of a high order for cultivated women,
who desire places as bookkeepers, copyists, secretaries, &c., is quite
necessary. We would suggest the establishment of such an office for
furnishing female workers to different parts of the United States, where they
are wanted in the higher branches of woman's labor. It would confer a
blessing on virtuous and industrious women, and be an accommodation to
employers. A paper devoted to the same interests might do much good also;
but we think it doubtful whether it would pay its way.

425. Lighthouse Keepers.

Miss H. told me of two young women whose father keeps a lighthouse, but
he is very feeble and infirm. They attend the lights, and often row out, if
they see a wreck, and do what they can to rescue the passengers. We
observed this newspaper paragraph a few years back: "A Mrs. Lydia Smith
has been appointed assistant keeper of the lighthouse at Manitou Island
(Michigan) at $250 per annum." "They have a Grace Darling at Bridgeport,
Conn. On the night of the 13th inst., Miss Moore, an accomplished young
lady, the daughter of the keeper of the lighthouse on Fairweather Island, just
below Bridgeport, heard cries for help at a distance from the shore, and
determined that an effort should be made to rescue whom it might be. It was
too dark to tell the direction or the distance, but, summoning two young
men to her aid, she launched the boat belonging to the lighthouse, and
ordered them to pull out in the direction of the cries, herself holding the
tiller. About two miles out in the Sound, they found a sailboat capsized, and
clinging to it were two men nearly exhausted. One of them was entirely
helpless, and with great difficulty got in the boat; but both were finally
rescued from death by the courage and efforts of this brave girl, and brought
safely to shore. Mr. Moore, the keeper of the lighthouse, has been for some
time afflicted with ill health, and when unable to see to the details of his
office, this daughter assumes the entire management, and, through the
lonely watches of the night, it is her fair hand that trims and tends the
beacon that guides the mariner safely on his way."

Page 517

426. Pawnbrokers.

I suppose this business requires a general knowledge of the value of goods.
Some pawnbrokers profess to make liberal advances, but a very heavy
percentage is usually charged. Indeed, some pawnbrokers extort an
incredible interest on money loaned to the poor. S., an intelligent Irish
pawnbroker, into whose office I went to ask something of the business, told
me he never knew of but one woman in the business. She was nominally a
widow, and employed a young man to stay in the shop. When women are
employed in pawnbrokers' establishments, it is nearly always as auxiliaries,
being the wife, sister, or daughter of the keeper. He thinks it not a suitable
business for a woman, as the class of people that come require a strong man
to deal with them, who can use their slang language, and drive them away if
they become very rude. No doubt, many go to pawn what they have when
under the influence of liquor, or to pawn their clothes to get liquor. The
broker retains what is pawned for a year, if it is not redeemed in less time. It
is then sold at auction. There is a law that permits it. His shelves were filled
with bundles, on which were pinned numbered papers. Another pawnbroker
told me that the fashion and quality of goods decide the price put on them,
particularly wearing apparel. There may be a difference in the value
estimation of pawnbrokers, just as there is in different establishments where
the same kind of new goods are sold. I saw the name of a female
pawnbroker in a business directory, and called. I did not see her, but the
young man who was employed to assist her in attending the store said they
have most business to do in summer, and that it is a business requiring
experience. They pay on articles taken to them what they will be likely to
sell for at auction. They must make some allowance for what they may lose
on the article. They charge at the rate of twenty-five per cent. for a year's
time, which is as long as anything pawned is kept. They lose more on
clothes than other goods. They allow a depositor to draw any sum of less
amount than the estimated value of an article; and when the article is
redeemed, a percentage is paid on the amount of the money drawn, and not
on the full value of the article.

427. Postmistresses.

Page 518

There are (1854) 128 postmistresses in the United States. They receive the
same salaries that postmasters do. The clerks in post offices sometimes
count at the rate of sixty letters a minute. There are 29,000 post offices in
the United States, ninety clerks in Chicago, and, I think, nearly three
hundred in New York. Might not a large number of these be women? I have
read that it is in contemplation to place in the general post office in London
a number of lady clerks. I called on Mrs. W., who was for nearly two years
at the ladies' window in the general post office, New York. Very few
approved of a lady being there. She found some advantages, but many
disadvantages, arising from her position. In the first place, it yielded her and
her child a support, the salary being $600. She was treated with respect by
all the attachés of the office except two—one of whom was immediately
dismissed, and the other removed. But the class of women who go to the
general post office constantly for letters, are of a kind a respectable woman
would not like to come in contact with. The majority receive letters under
fictitious names. Some of them were very impudent to her. And sometimes
men would come to the window and insist on her getting the letters of their
lady friends for them. Besides, there were about fifty clerks immediately
around her, and altogether in the office between two hundred and three
hundred. They were men of all classes and nations. The office is one
influenced by political motives, and a man has the advantage as candidate
by gaining the votes of his friends. She says she was kind and courteous,
but found it necessary to be very decided, and keep at a distance from every
one. The men in the office did not like it, because they had to guard their
tongues. She remained there from 8.30 A. M. to 4.30 P. M., and was on her
feet all the time, with the exception of a few minutes. There were no
conveniences or comforts for a woman. So she suffered severely from the
effects. She thinks the plan of employing ladies in the post offices of towns
and villages might be done more easily. Even here it might be done more
advantageously, if the office was situated farther up street, the regulations
were different, and a number of ladies were employed instead of but one. A
lady could not well use a ladder to reach down letters from the upper boxes.
A young man did that for her. For a postmistress we might enumerate the
qualifications of quickness of eye, strict integrity, a retentive memory, and
patient industry. "Unmarried females only can hold the office of
postmistress. They are appointed, give bonds, and are commissioned in the

Page 519

same manner as postmasters, and receive the same compensation. There is,
however, a larger number of females, generally the wives and daughters of
postmasters, employed as assistants; but as the latter are appointed and paid
by the postmasters themselves, to whom alone they are responsible, their
names are not recorded on the government books."

428. Sewing-Machine Instructors.

In many of the stores of New York, where sewing machines are sold, we
notice that many of those who give instructions to buyers of machines are
men. Shame on the men that teach women to sew! When such is the case, to
what may not a woman resort for earning a livelihood? Shame on the man
that engages in such an effeminate employment, save he who is deformed
and cannot engage in harder work! Shame, I say, on the man seen at a
sewing machine, or with a needle in his hand! Surely the muscles and bones
and sinews of men were never given for such a purpose. W. & W. employ
five young ladies as instructors on machines, paying each of them over $6 a
week. They have one to sell thread, and two to go about the city adjusting
machines. It is something difficult to do, as it requires almost the
mechanical talent of a machinist. They have no applications for instructors
on sewing machines out of the city, but have for some in the city. They
employ females because the purchasers of machines are generally ladies. G.
& B. employ a lady for adjusting machines, as they find ladies prefer one of
their own sex for the purpose. I was told at S.'s, by the bookkeeper, they do
not employ female instructors. They used to employ both young men and
young ladies, but they spent so much time talking to each other, that they
found it necessary to dispense with either the one or the other. So they gave
up the girls eighteen months ago, and have not employed any since. They
paid girls $4 a week from the time they took them, and increased their
wages to $5 or $6. Many of the women earned $6. They worked, on an
average, ten hours a day. Ladies are employed in Boston to sell machines.
The ladies of New York (said a young man selling machines) prefer to buy
of a gentleman. (?) Yet, he thinks the crying sin of civilization is, not
furnishing remunerative employment to women. Simply learning to sew
with a machine is by no means difficult, though the time required depends

Page 520

very much upon the abilities of the learner. Some become proficient in all
its accomplishments of hemming, tucking, gathering, preparing work for
the machine, &c., in from three to six months, while others do not become
efficient workers in less than a year. The time required to learn depends
very much on the machine used, as some are more complicated than others;
and a thorough knowledge of the machine is desirable for every good
worker. It is more difficult to learn to operate on one kind of machine after
learning on some other kind. By paying $1.50, a person can receive six
lessons on sewing machines at S.'s. At W. & W.'s, and at G. & B.'s,
purchasers and those who cannot pay are taught free of charge. Some
people charge $3 for teaching to operate. L. & W. will teach any one to
operate who buys a machine, but they charge others $2.

429. Shepherdesses.

Boys who keep sheep in Scotland, knit while so employed. Girls and
women who tend sheep, might perhaps do the same. Sheep are being raised
to considerable extent in Texas, and the raising of them is on the increase in
the Western States, but we do not know that females have ever been
employed in this country to tend sheep.

430. Toll Collectors.

It is not unusual to see women receiving toll at the gates, but they are
mostly foreigners, or poor widows, or the wives of the gatekeepers.

Page 521

CONTRIBUTORS TO THE COMFORT OR AMUSEMENT
OF OTHERS.

431. Bathhouse Attendants.

There are some people that cannot afford to have bathhouses in their
dwellings, and for such it is well there are houses where, for twenty-five
cents, they may enjoy the luxury of a bath. Particularly is it well for hard-
working people, on whom the dust and perspiration collect, and who are
refreshed and rendered more healthy by frequent baths. Where a bathhouse
is used for women alone—there being no department for men—we think it
might be owned and superintended by a lady, just like any other branch of
business. Females, of course, would be in attendance to wait on those that
frequent the bath rooms. Quite a number are employed at water-cure
establishments, which are open for patients at all seasons of the year. Not
only does cleanliness promote comfort, but it is conducive to health. Many
of the diseases of the poor arise from a want of cleanliness. Even the morals
are improved, and the mind freed as it were from its cobwebs. Most
medicinal baths should be superintended by some one that has a knowledge
of medicine and the human system. And those employed, if unacquainted
with the business, should be particular in observing directions given. For
baths, a person should have means to fit up rooms neatly, and enough to
live on until their establishment becomes known. I called on the wife of a
gentleman who has electro-magnetic baths administered. He is a physician,
and gives medical advice as to the kind of bath required. He does not give
much medicine, thinking the article that would be prescribed had better be
administered externally in the form of a bath. The baths are $3 for a single
one; $10 for four. More people take the baths in summer than winter. After
a vapor bath the system is stimulated, not relaxed; it is then better prepared
for the reception of medicine. The charge at one establishment I know to be
50 cents a bath, or $5 for twelve. In New York, I saw the People's Washing
and Bathing Establishment, which was put up by some philanthropic

Page 522

citizens, for the benefit of the poor. A man is employed to take charge of it;
and in summer, several women attend to bathers, and some wash and iron
towels. They pay $3 a week to a bath attendant, and from $3 to $3.50 to
washers and ironers. They have had 1,500 bathers a day, in summer. For a
bath in a small room and one towel, six cents are charged; for better
accommodations, twelve cents. A swimming bath for boys is attached, and a
charge made of three cents a swim of half an hour.

432. Brace and Truss Makers.

I went to M. & Co.'s, New York, who are surgical and anatomical
mechanicians, inventors, and manufacturers. They want to employ several
good female workers. They will not take any to learn, because it requires
time to teach them; yet a person of moderate abilities, that can sew neatly,
can learn in a few days, or weeks at most, to do the cutting out and
stitching. Part of the stitching is done by hand, and part by machinery. The
workwomen are paid $3 a week, and work ten hours. At L.'s truss and
bandage institute, I learned that he employs a number at $3 a week. He
cannot get as many good hands as he wants. He drew several hands from
his former employer by paying them a little more. His wife does the fitting
for ladies. A truss maker in Middletown, Conn., pays his women by the
piece, and they earn from $3 to $4 per week. A., Brooklyn, pays a girl that
sews neatly, but has never worked at the business, $3 a week. Any one that
can sew well or operate on a machine, can do the mechanical work. He pays
experienced hands over $3, according to what they do. His girls work but
nine hours a day. Manufacturers of surgical apparatus in Boston write: "We
employ women in sewing exclusively, generally about twenty, and all
American. The work is not more unhealthy than any sewing. We consider
any steady sewing, and the consequent confinement, more or less injurious.
Average wages, perhaps $4 per week—something depends upon
capabilities, however. Some have earned $6 per week, though such cases
are exceptions. All our work is done by the piece. Females are paid about
half the price of males. There appears to be an ample supply of female
labor. On this basis, prices, details, &c., are governed accordingly. That
portion of the work done by males, it takes three years to learn; that done by

Page 523

women, three months, presuming they were good sewers at the start.
Learners are paid the same as old hands. Of course, they are slower, and
accumulate less until well learned. To be a neat sewer and possess some
mechanical skill will prepare one for this employment. We are seldom idle
more than two weeks in the year. The male portion of our work would be no
more adapted to women than horse shoeing. Our hands work from eight to
twelve hours each day, and have none too much time for the improvement
of their minds, considering they must be occupied more or less upon their
own private sewing in addition to their business." A truss maker in Boston
writes: "I pay by the week, from $4 to$6 to women; to men, from $7 to $12,
because they can do more. They work from nine to ten hours. All are
Americans. It requires from three to six months to learn. Some portions of
the steel work would not be suitable for women. Board, $2 per week." "W.
& F. employ eight women for making braces, bandages, &c. They pay $3 a
week to those who are employed by the week. Those that work by the piece
can earn from $4 to $6, and sometimes by overwork $7 a week. Their work
is steady in good times, and they are able to employ their girls all the year.
All sew by hand but one, and she receives but $4 as an operator. The
business is mostly confined to cities."

433. Chiropodists.

W., of the firm of L. & W., was quite a gentlemanly man in his manners,
conversation, and dress. He mentioned three women, each in different
cities, engaged in this occupation. He thinks his pursuit preferable to
dentistry. Both depend on the class of patients. To follow the calling
professionally requires a knowledge of anatomy and surgery. There is a
great deal of charlatanism practised by some in the calling. A knowledge of
how to extract corns is not sufficient. Bunions, inverted nails, &c., require
scientific treatment. He charges $1 for removing one corn, fifty cents apiece
for two, and proportionately less for three or more. There are a great many
itinerant doctors. If any individual fits himself properly for the calling, he
may, after three or four years, in a large city, living from hand to mouth
during the time, succeed in establishing a name and gaining respectable
practice. The number of ladies suffering from corns has not decreased,

Page 524

judging from his experience. Men are more liable to have corns than
women, because of more severe and constant exercise. He thinks it would
not do for women to work at men's feet. I think it would not be more
agreeable to a woman to have a man work at her feet; and as far as
propriety goes, one is no better than the other. He would discourage any
lady friend of his from undertaking the business. I called on Mme. K., a
French lady. Her father is a chiropodist in Paris, and what she knows of the
business she learned from seeing him. She found it unpleasant at first, but
now she does not mind it. She goes to the house of the patient for the same
price as she operates at her own room, namely, fifty cents a corn. She has as
much to do as she wants. She thinks, in other places there are openings, and
a woman that thoroughly understands the business is in every way as fit and
capable as a man. She knows of but one other lady in the business in this
country, and she is quite aged. She thinks, by three months' study and
practice with a skilful operator, one might do very well to commence for
herself. She would as soon operate on a gentleman's as a lady's foot. It
might be well for one commencing to practice to travel, or get custom in
several towns and villages in the same vicinity. I think she would instruct
any one for a satisfactory compensation. A chiropodist says, as long as
people are fools enough to abuse their feet, the prospect for his employment
is good. L. is the oldest practitioner in the United States, and has practised
in New York for twenty years. He would be willing to instruct pupils,
charging $100 for each student. He would give thorough and systematic
instruction, and teach to make the material used. People have not had much
confidence in ladies, because of their deficiency in surgical skill.
Incompetent persons have injured the business. Times do not affect the
amount of practice. There are openings in Boston, Baltimore, and Chicago.
Many ladies come to L. to have their finger nails trimmed, polished, and
tinted. They would no doubt be as willing to have a competent lady.

434. Cuppers and Leechers.

This business is sometimes connected with that of a barber. But in cities,
some women engage in it, and, no doubt, are as competent as men. Indeed,
for their own sex and children they are better fitted. Mrs. A., a cupper and

Page 525

leecher, told me the best way to obtain custom is to form the acquaintance
of some of the best physicians, as they will then recommend you but you
must always be ready to attend their patients, or they forget you. Her father
was a physician, and in that way she learned the treatment of leeches. It is
well to get into the favor of persons that serve as leechers at the infirmaries
—they may be willing to instruct you. The Germans have killed the
business in New York. Some charge but twenty-five cents for cupping, and
proportionately low for leeching. Leeching is sooner learned than cupping,
but there is much less of both done than formerly. Homœopathy has
interfered with their use. She used to be out all day and up all night, but
now she seldom has a call; and yet she must be always at home, and ready
for a call. She never goes to take a cup of tea with a friend, and is frequently
called out of church. Leeching and cupping require a steady hand, and
ability to use the scarificator. A person in the business must go into all kinds
of sickness, without even asking what it is. Accidents give considerable
custom, and in the sickly season there is most. It has become common for
lads in apothecary shops to be sent out to apply leeches. When they are to
be applied to any hidden part of a lady, a female leecher, of course, is
preferable. Mrs. A. charges twenty-five cents a leech, if more than one is
applied—if not, thirty-seven cents. For cupping she charges $1. One lady in
New York charges not less than $1 apiece for applying leeches, and in some
cases more. Mrs. L. thinks a lady could not make a living at the business in
New York, because the Germans have killed the trade by working at half
price, and, as might be supposed, do not properly understand it. A good
location should be fixed upon for an office. A cupper and leecher is
expected to go in all weather, and in all hours of the day and night, and in
any kind of sickness. Most of it is done in fall and winter, because there is
then most inflammation. Judgment must be used in the quantity of blood to
be drawn. A leecher should be a good judge of the quality of leeches, and
the proper treatment of them. Particular attention should be paid to the
directions of the doctor in applying leeches. Mrs. L. says there is an
opening for a cupper and leecher in Albany, N. Y. A friend of hers there had
to pay exorbitantly for the services of a leecher.

435. Fishing-Tackle Preparers.

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In Philadelphia, I was told at the store where most fishing tackle is sold,
that one woman is employed by them in fastening small hooks, with silk
thread, on the end of worm gut. Large hooks are prepared in the same way
for other kinds of fishing. It would seem that few women know of the
existence of that kind of work in Philadelphia, for when the proprietor
advertises for a female hand, he never has any applicants. It is clean,
healthy work, and the materials can be easily carried home. Fifty cents a
day a woman earns at it, but a man $1. There is but a small demand for
fishing tackle in Philadelphia, but in New York the trade is much more
important. C., of New York, says most engaged in this work are English
women. A fast and correct worker can earn $6 a week at it. They are paid
for by the dozen. He finds women more honest than men, and therefore
prefers them. Men will steal some of the line or some of the hooks. For
making flies, a superior hand may earn $8 a week. Something of a
mechanical turn is all that is necessary to make a good workman. They have
more work of that kind done than any house in New York, and pay a better
price to have it well done. Nets pay very poorly, because all the large nets
are now made by machinery, and the smaller ones are made by infirm
people, who do it to keep employed as much as for the compensation. When
the coarse netting is done by machinery, it can be obtained at 12½ cents a
fathom, and a fathom of the same kind done by hand would require a day.
The peculiar system of the business is that the work is all done in winter,
and the goods sold in summer. It is a luxury, and consequently dispensed
with when times are hard. C. pays for putting hooks on the lines by the
gross. The silk lines are manufactured in England. G. & B. employ four
women who work at home in making fishing tackle and artificial flies. They
are made in winter. An experienced hand can obtain $15 a week, working
from six in the morning till ten at night. He thinks, there are so few in the
business, workers would not give instruction without good pay. A woman
may possibly earn $4 a week making nets. They employ Irishmen to weave
the silk worm gut on the hooks. The three or four large fishing-tackle
establishments in New York could furnish all that is needed for the United
States. Mrs. R., who makes artificial flies and fishing tackle, says she has
now and then earned $9 a week—a difference of $6 in the report of the
clerk. But there is considerable difference in the amount of work of the
different kinds; and as they are paid for by the gross, some kinds of work

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pay better than others. There is now considerable competition in this work,
because of the many that are out of employment. Girls apply at the store,
offering to do the work at forty-two cents a gross. None are prepared South
or West—so there may be openings before long in St. Louis, Chicago, New
Orleans, &c. Making artificial flies is mostly in the hands of Irishmen.

436. Fortune Tellers.

In London is a class of men and women called Druynackers, that take goods
around in baskets to sell, and profess to tell fortunes. This magic power
gives them influence over many silly girls, that are tempted to buy of them
on that account. We cannot believe that God would vouchsafe to a mortal
the power to foretell future events—to unite the present and future—time
and eternity. The constitution of all nature and the teachings of the Bible
confute such a belief. "The veil," says some one, "which covers futurity is
woven by the hand of mercy. Seek not to raise the veil therefore, for
sadness might be seen to shade the brow that fancy had arrayed in smiles of
gladness." Wherever there are people tempted to pry into the future, there
will be some to take advantage of it. Many a fortune teller sells her soul to
Satan for the power of imposing the belief that she reveals future events.
The prices charged by fortune tellers for their services vary from 25 cents to
$5.

437. Guides and Door Attendants.

"In Paris, the box offices of all the theatres are tended by women—not only
those of the evening, but those open during the day for the sale of reserved
places. The box openers and audience seaters are women." "The proprietor
of the London Adelphi advertised, at the opening of the last season, that his
box openers, check takers, and so on, would all be women." We have seen it
stated that in some of the Roman Catholic churches in Paris, ladies of the
congregation pass around the plates to take up a collection. Women in some
of the old countries are occupied as doorkeepers at museums and galleries
of paintings. In Great Britain, many of the door attendants are females,
where the houses are occupied by several families, as is often the case. In

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England, some women are employed as pew openers. To come nearer
home. Those who have visited the Academy of Fine Arts, in Philadelphia,
will remember the pleasant face of the janitress who receives the tickets of
the visitors, and that an obliging young woman checked the canes and
parasols. In New York, most of the picture galleries have female
doorkeepers.

438. Lodging and Boarding House Keepers.

Patience, a spirit of forgiveness, and an ability to overlook faults, are very
necessary for gliding along smoothly in this difficult and often ungrateful
calling. A cheerful disposition, too, is almost indispensable, for everybody
likes smiles better than frowns. A love of society is desirable. It is a
principle that has been wisely implanted in the human heart, and one that
affords numerous and important advantages to mankind. It is one that tends
to produce a desire for the comfort and happiness of those around. Yet too
great a fondness for society may cause a neglect of duty and a love of
gossipping. It is sometimes the case that light, frivolous talk and too great
fondness for excitement characterize the keepers and inmates of a boarding
house. Yet such, of course, is not always the case. Keeping a boarding
house is an office that will give to one of a kind and benevolent nature a
good opportunity of exercising her native qualities. Sympathy closely binds
such to the unfortunate, and pleasures are doubled by participating with
others. Whether those who keep boarding houses happen to have by nature
more idle curiosity than others, or whether the business is one calculated to
create and foster such a quality, I cannot say, but favor the latter opinion.
The tempers of those who keep boarding houses are apt to be very much
tried. They need great firmness and uniformity in deportment. The price
paid for boarding is usually proportioned to the comforts enjoyed, but not
always. In early times, houses of entertainment for travellers were kept
mostly by women. In a region of country where hunting and fishing are
good, or the scenery fine, and the roads pleasant, ladies often accommodate,
for the summer and autumn, families from the city. It is a very general
fashion for people in the cities to go during the warmest weather to the
country, seaside, or springs. Boarding house keepers usually find it most

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profitable to keep a large house, as only one kitchen and parlor are needed,
and many other expenses attending a house are proportionately diminished.
Good boarding houses for workwomen are scarce in all large cities,
particularly New York. Most keepers of boarding houses prefer men,
because they are less about the house. I have been told that it is very
difficult for work girls to get board in well kept houses. I think several
respectable boarding houses should be established in large cities by wealthy
and influential ladies, or religious societies, for working women. In New
York are some houses where none but merchants' clerks board. Why might
not one or more be established for shop girls? A list, as given by employers,
of the prices paid by work girls for their board, I will annex at the close of
this work; but I would add that comfortable rooms and wholesome food
cannot be furnished in cities at these prices, and afford a reasonable profit to
the keepers of the houses. And I would further say, the prices paid women
for their labor does not enable them to pay higher rates for their board.

439. Makers of Artificial Eyes.

The science of supplying defects in the physique is such that an artificial
man can almost be manufactured. Artificial teeth, hair, eyes, ears, noses,
chins, palates, arms, hands, and legs, are some of the missing parts of the
frame that can be supplied. In the census report of Great Britain for 1850,
we find four women under the head of artificial limb and eye makers. G., of
New York, knows two or three ladies in Paris, and one in London, that are
engaged in making the whites of glass eyes. G. may be able to give
employment to a lady in making the white of the eyes, in a few months. It is
done by blowing the glass, and requires but a short time to learn. He says he
would pay a woman well for the work. I called at D.'s, a manufacturer of
glass eyes, and saw D.'s son, a youth about eighteen years of age. He says
there are but two other makers of glass eyes in the United States, and only
two or three in London. D. spent fourteen years in London and Dublin,
manufacturing eyes at the infirmaries, and giving them away. He did it to
get in practice. He prefers to insert the eyes himself. They move as a natural
eye does, and certainly were very natural in color. He sells them at from
$10 to $20. Some physicians furnish their patients with them, charging $60

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or $70 for one, and so making a handsome profit. When a person that does
not understand the form of the glass eye and the anatomy of the human eye
inserts one, the inside of the eye is liable to become inflamed, and proud
flesh is formed. D. spent a fortune experimenting. It requires an extensive
knowledge of chemicals, and the effect produced on them by heat. A small
furnace is used for burning the colors, in the glass. Some people would give
thousands of dollars to know the chemicals used, and their proportions. The
young man says his father has never even imparted to him the information.
Some people that wear glass eyes take them out at night. D. judges of the
shape and size required by merely looking at the remaining eye of the
individual. We think a competent person in this business might establish
himself at the South. I called on an Englishman who has been at the
business twenty years in New York. He is over sixty years of age, and has
been in the business fifty years; learned it with his father in London. He had
a number of certificates on his walls. He says a woman would go into a
decline directly, if exposed to the heat of a furnace in baking eyes. It is
necessary to stay in the oven while the change is taking place in the
chemicals. In summer it is intolerable. His son would not continue the
business on that account. He says the French eyes are made of glass,
covered with porcelain, and break easily; the white is made by being blown.
The English are not blown, and are made entirely of porcelain. He says they
will not break unless very cold water is applied in bathing the eyes (a
common fashion in the United States). He has had eyes worn for a year
without being taken out. He takes the dimensions of the eye by fitting in
different sized ones. If an eye is too small, it will slip out, fall, and break. It
requires long experience to become proficient in making glass eyes; but it is
a beautiful art, and not inappropriate to competent women.

440. Artificial Limbs.

We had thought, perhaps, a few women could be employed in this vocation,
and accordingly addressed a circular to a gentleman so occupied. He thinks
no women are engaged in this business in the United States or any other
country; but says they could be, and the reason they are not is, there is not
enough of the kind of work connected with it, that could be done by

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women, to employ them. "It requires some men one year to learn, some five
years, and some never can learn. It depends on natural ability and skill. The
qualifications required are skill, judgment, sobriety, morality, pleasing
address, dignity, imitation, industry, love of the beautiful, and anatomy. The
prospect of work is good; superior workmen will succeed. The best seasons
for work are from September 1st to July 1st. There is a demand for the work
in California. Large seaport towns are not good localities—patients
generally charity cases. Inland cities surrounded by a populous country, the
best localities—patients better able to pay."

441. Artificial Teeth.

It is said that 3,000,000 artificial teeth are made in the United States
annually. The materials are all found in the United States. Each tooth passes
through ten different processes. I called at J. & W.'s, Philadelphia. They
employ sixty-two girls, all American. They pay a learner, after two or three
weeks' practice, according to the quality and quantity of her work. Their
girls earn from $1.50 to $7 per week; average $4.50. They have but one
hand earning $7. They would be glad to get more such at the same price, for
it is difficult to get good hands. They have to turn away a great many
applicants. The prospect is good to learners. They keep their hands all the
year. The business has advanced rapidly during the last few years, and is
likely to continue increasing. There are constant improvements in the
business. Consequently a hand may be always improving. They will not
receive a girl without reference, or credentials of moral character. They do
not want any but intelligent girls, for the hand is guided by the mind. There
are three or four processes carried on in different rooms. They work at the
establishment, and never carry work home, unless a mother or sister is sick
and requires their attention. It is a light, genteel business; and one well
adapted to women of some education and intelligence. A lady in the cars
told me she knew a lady who received $7 a week for making teeth in
Baltimore. She came to Philadelphia, but could not get as good wages; so
she returned to Baltimore. The New York Teeth Manufacturing Company
pay from $3 to $5 a week. Learners are paid $2.50 a week, from the first,
for six months; and then, if competent, paid more. The work is not

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unhealthy. Men average $10, but their branch is different; the work is
heavier. It requires about two months to learn, in one department. Neither
men nor women are often taught more than one branch. All seasons are
alike, and they are never out of work. The supply of hands is greater than
the demand everywhere. Small hands, nimble fingers, and good eyesight are
important to a worker. In the establishment of R., New York, four processes
in the making of artificial teeth are performed by women. Some branches
require a longer time to learn than others. It takes six months to learn any
one perfectly. R. pays $3 a week to his learners, and $5 a week to
experienced workers. Careful manipulation is the most that is needed.
Judging from the increase in the last five years, the prospect for
employment is excellent; yet the openings in New York are limited. Women
are the best workers, but some prefer men. The only manufacturers are in
New York, Philadelphia, Hartford, and Bridgeport. It is desirable to have
careful workers. B. had a girl ruin $500 worth of teeth for him. The parts
performed by women are cleaning the moulds, setting the pins, filling the
moulds with the tooth materials, and trimming, and putting on the pink
color answering the place of gums; also placing them on slides preparatory
to baking and carding.

442. Nurses for the Sick.

Attention to this subject has been awakened during the last few years, by
the heroic conduct of Miss Florence Nightingale and the ladies who went
with her to the Crimea to wait on the sick and wounded. When the people of
England proposed making some testimonial of regard to Florence
Nightingale, she proposed that, with the means expended in doing so, they
should establish an institution for the training of nurses. We would not fail
to notice a fact that reflects much credit on Miss Anne M. Andrews, of
Syracuse, N. Y. While the yellow fever raged in Norfolk, Va., she left her
home and went alone to Norfolk, devoting her time and services to the sick
of all conditions. She received the medal that is usually awarded to a
physician on such occasions, and the citizens talked of placing a statue in a
conspicuous part of their city, as a memorial of her goodness and their
indebtedness. In Berlin, Vienna, Turin, and Halle, hospitals have been

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established for the education of nurses. In Germany, there has been one for
many years. A number of good ladies connected with that institution are
now in Pittsburg, where they form an order of deaconesses. Some take care
of the sick, and some have charge of an orphan asylum. St. Luke's Hospital,
New York, is under Episcopal supervision, and connected with it is an order
of Protestant deaconesses, who attend the sick. Most of the hospitals in this
country have been established by the Roman Catholic Church, and are
under its guidance. We think Protestant hospitals for the sick are greatly
needed, especially in the Western and Southern cities—Chicago, St. Louis,
Louisville, Cincinnati, and New Orleans. It may be that some exist in those
cities; but, if so, we think they must be quite limited in extent. Asylums for
sick children are established in some of our largest cities. A number exist in
Europe. A nurse should have a kind, sympathizing nature, good health,
strong nerves, great powers of endurance, ability to sit up all night, and bear
exposure to extremes of temperature. In addition, she needs a good
memory, that she may give the right medicine at the proper time. If she has
not, she should commit to paper such orders, and consult them frequently. A
long and thorough training is needed by an attendant on the sick. Great self-
control is necessary, for many persons are very impatient in sickness. A
bright, cheerful spirit should be cultivated. A sweet voice is pleasant in a
nurse, because a sick person is sensitively alive to the smallest matters. It
requires a woman of education, consideration, and delicacy of feeling, to be
an acceptable nurse to people of refinement; and such a one must become
attached to those she serves, if treated kindly. To make a kind and
sympathizing nurse, one must have waited, in sickness, upon those she
loved dearly. A nurse should use the precaution of wearing camphor, or
something of that nature, on her person, particularly where there is
contagious fever. The room should be large and well ventilated, and
preventives used to keep the infectious air from spreading. A better class of
women are employed to wait on the sick than formerly. The infirmary for
women, established by Dr. Blackwell, in New York, is designed partly as a
school for nurses. There is also an institution in Philadelphia for training
them. Nurses earn from $4 to $10 a week. Some wait only on male patients,
some only on ladies; some attend incurables, but the most serve in general
sickness. Mrs. B. gets $7 and sometimes $8 a week and her board for
monthly nursing. She knows some that get $10 a week. She stays in the

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room with the lady and her infant, and takes care of and waits on them.
When food is to be prepared, the child's clothes washed, or anything of that
kind done, she rings a bell and gives orders to a servant. Mrs. B., another
ladies' nurse, charges from $8 to $10 a week, according to the amount of
rest she loses at night. She told me that most good physicians keep a list of
the best nurses. A nurse is expected to be able to make all the nice dishes
required by her patient. In most small places, she is not expected to have the
assistance of any one else, unless the sickness is very protracted, or the
patient is delirious. In some places, a nurse is expected to close the eyes of
the dying, and wash them after death, and perform any other service of that
nature. But it is not uncommon for an undertaker's wife to be sent for to
perform these duties, and take a measure for a shroud. For these services
she is paid from $3 to $5. A nurse runs the risk of contracting a contagious
disease; but, if the system is in a good condition, there is not much danger.
As long as people are sick, which will be as long as there are any, nurses
will be employed. Of course, there is most to do in sickly seasons. I called
on Mrs. P., who charges $5 a week for her services. She does all that is
required for the patient, except give medical advice. She would rather wait
on men than women, as they are sure either to pay better wages or make
presents. As she has had children of her own, and raised them all, she feels
competent to take care of children in sickness. It is well for a woman to
have a home to go to, when relieved from the labor and anxiety of nursing.

Page 535

443. Steamboat and Railroad News Venders.

Boys and men are much more frequently engaged in the sale of newspapers,
than women and girls. They are more disposed to sell edibles. We have seen
some little girls selling papers on the streets of New York and Philadelphia;
but we do not remember ever to have seen women selling papers at railroad
depots or on steamboats, though many are seen with baskets of sweetmeats.
Many, perhaps, cannot read, and do not wish to sell papers with whose
contents they are unacquainted. Others may think they will be less likely to
make any profit by their sale. Some women sell papers at stands on the
streets of New York, and about the hotel doors. I saw a newspaper boy with
an armful of Ledgers. He had sixty that he had bought at three and a half
cents apiece, and was selling at four cents apiece. A girl that sells
newspapers at the door of a hotel on Broadway, told me that she and her
mother take turns about in being at the stand, and the profits of their joint
sales are from 50 cents to $1 a day. She has several Sunday customers, to
whose houses she takes ordered papers.

444. Street Musicians.

Organ grinders and street harpers have ever found a fair representation in
the softer sex. Such representation is, however, among our foreign
population—German and Italian, mostly. Last summer, in the streets of
Philadelphia, might be seen, from day to day, a German woman with an
organ on her back, and a baby in a hand-wagon, going from street to street,
stopping now and then under a window to play. And in New York was
another, whose organ was placed in a small barrow, which she wheeled
through the streets of the city. We have seen two old women going through
the streets of New York, one playing an organ, the other a tambourine; and a
few days since, we observed one drawing very creditable music from a
violin. Girls in the Swiss costume are sometimes seen walking from place
to place, with a harp and tambourine. Some people say that, by the
encouragement of street musicians, we encourage idleness. Most such
people would treat a musician with scorn, and close the door in their faces,

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but step out where they could enjoy the music and save their pennies; or
they would stand behind closed shutters, that their neighbors might not
think them capable of having such vulgar taste as listening to a street
musician. Now, we may encourage a disposition to roam, but scarcely
idleness. This propensity to roam may be unfavorable to the cultivation of
business habits; but the class of listless Italians who engage in it could
never become business people. In the first place, harpers, violinists, and
flutists must depend on their own skill and knowledge of music, to perform.
They must prepare for their particular vocation, as others do. Those who
play on organs, harmonias, and similar instruments, where no knowledge of
music is necessary, we must admit, require no training; but walking, as most
musicians do, from eight to twenty miles a day, is in itself laborious. We
have been told that in New York most street musicians are employed by two
or three individuals, who furnish the instruments, and allow the carriers to
have so much of the proceeds. In older countries, there is a greater variety
in the instruments used by street musicians. "There are sometimes fifty
persons engaged in the sale of second-hand musical instruments on the
streets of London."

445. Tavern Keepers.

The keeping of taverns in small villages, or on the roadside in the country,
furnishes some with the means of gaining a livelihood. Women engaged in
this business should be wives whose husbands can attend to receiving
travellers, settling bills, ordering horses, and such duties, or widows with
sons old enough to do so. It is laborious enough for a woman to superintend
the table and bed rooms, and the man must be in wretched health, or good
for nothing, that cannot attend to the outdoor duties. Much money has been
accumulated by some people keeping taverns in the Western country, where
fifty cents is the usual price for a meal. Indeed, the accommodations are
often such that a person cannot be rendered comfortable, and yet the price
paid would command all the comforts of a good boarding house in a large
town. It is the same case with the hotels, or saloons, at some railroad
depots. At others an abundance of life's good things is furnished. The tavern
keepers of London have a pension society.

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446. Travelling Companions.

Travelling alone, is most favorable to thought, but not to pleasure. How
much more we enjoy a lovely scene in nature, or the novel and brilliant
sentiments of an author, when in company with one to whom we can talk
freely! Good conversational powers, and an ability to appreciate the
beautiful, are desirable in a travelling companion. Conversation should flow
in a free, easy, unrestrained current. Will it not promote the entertainment
and edification of rational, responsible, and immortal beings, to engage in
wholesome conversation—to exchange sentiments in regard to books and
the improvements of the age—to learn of the heavens above and the earth
beneath? In talking with strangers, might not much be learned of their
various countries, and a thousand things pertaining to them? Conversation
exercises the imagination, gives play to a talent of invention, and
strengthens the reasoning faculty. It sharpens thought as fermentation does
wine. It tends, also, to restore the diseased imagination of the secluded and
morbidly sensitive.

Page 538

MISTRESSES AND DOMESTICS.

447. Mistresses.

We scarcely know that it is in place to say anything to this large and
influential class of ladies. Yet, as we treat of servants, and endeavor to
impress their duty upon them, we hope we may be excused for saying a few
words to those who have charge of them. From the relation existing
between a mistress and her servants, the mistress is supposed to have had
superior mental and moral advantages. Then let that strongest of all
incentives, a good example, be given. In some cases, the only good
influence likely to be exerted over the servant, is by the mistress. No
woman of right feelings can look upon her servants as mere beasts of
burden. She knows and feels that they have souls, and are accountable
beings; that each one is capable of extremes of misery and happiness.
Should they not therefore receive kind and careful instruction in what is
right? If the same regular system of domestic service were employed in this
country that exists in Europe, housekeepers would be saved much labor.
There, each department, even of kitchen labor, is distinct, and a servant is
promoted according to her industry and improvement. But the expense of a
large number of servants is one that most people in our country feel unable
to support. Difficulties often arise from labor being required of servants that
they have not stipulated to perform; and no definite understanding as to the
extent of the privilege of receiving visitors is likely to prove a source of
trouble. The thousand petty annoyances to which a mistress is subject,
renders it necessary that she have a perfect command of her temper. A
mistress must make great allowance for ignorance of what is right and
wrong, for untamed passions, strong appetites, unimproved reason, and
want of self-control. Many domestics are foreigners—ignorant, dull, and
unacquainted with our language. We are sorry to say some mistresses
expect their servants to be faultless, when they themselves, with their
superior advantages, are not so. Mistresses are responsible, to some extent,

Page 539

for the spiritual, as well as the mental and physical good of their servants.
They are in charge of immortal souls. The tendency of their influence and
example must be either elevating or depressing. The quiet of the Sabbath,
we think, might be granted to those in most departments of domestic labor.
Cooks, we think, might prepare a dinner on Saturday, to be served cold on
Sunday, with tea, if the weather be cold, or the habits of the people require
it. Sabbaths have been called "milestones in the journey of life," and has not
the poor cook, steaming over the fire day after day, need to count the
milestones in the journey of her toilsome life? Says Mrs. Graves, in her
"Woman in America:" "Is it not strange, that, among all the societies of the
day, not one should have been formed for the intellectual and moral
improvement of domestic servants, and for instructing them in household
employments?" At the House of Protection, a Roman Catholic institution,
New York, girls and women of good character, out of employment, or
strangers in the city, are received on application. The girls are taught to
wash, iron, do housework, sew, and embroider. Would that the Protestants
would imitate this noble charity more fully! I am happy to add that in
connection with the Child's Nursery (a Protestant institution), Fifty-first
street, New York, has been commenced a servants' school. Young girls
taken into the institution receive a year's instruction in washing, ironing,
house cleaning, and sewing.

448. Domestics.

We think an important work of benevolence presents itself in Free States. It
is providing homes for servant girls, when they are out of employment or
sick. Many of them are in a strange land, unacquainted with the language
and the ways of the people. When sick, some of them are immediately sent
off by their mistresses to save the trouble of waiting on them. The negroes
of the Slave States, when sick, are (if they have kind masters and
mistresses) as tenderly cared for as any member of the family, and are never
without a home in health or in sickness. That lonely and wretched feeling of
having no place to consider home, is not their experience. Connected with
this subject, arises one to which we have never yet given much attention,
but which forces itself on our mind as one calling for attention from the

Page 540

benevolent: it is the establishment of institutions for the afflicted portion of
the colored population, both in Slave and Free States. We refer to the blind,
the deaf and dumb, and the insane. We know of no separate institution for
such, and no arrangement whatever, with the exception of limited
arrangements for the insane, in connection with institutions for white
people. Now and then we hear people advocate the old plan of binding
orphans and destitute children. Whether that would be advantageous, would
depend altogether on the kind of people to whom they were bound. Some
servants soon fail, and are not fit for service more than a few years. It arises
mostly from their exposure to cold and dampness without being properly
clothed and fed, and sometimes from a too free indulgence in the pleasures
of the palate, particularly that of the consuming liquid which burns out life
and sense. The hard work that most Irish women can perform, and the large
number in this country, have made them the most numerous domestics in
the Free States. They are generally employed as maids of all work. I think
the number of American girls going into service is increasing. The majority
of white female domestics in this country are single women, from sixteen to
thirty-five years of age. In Providence, R. I., a census was taken in 1855,
stating, among other particulars, the number of American families having
servants, the number in foreign families, and the aggregate; but the number
of white domestics has never been fully taken in the United States, even
when collecting statistics for the census. A short time ago, we counted in the
New York Herald eight columns of situations wanted, three fourths of
which were by female domestics. It shows what a surplus there is of
domestics in the cities, that no doubt could find situations through the
country, and in the villages. The majority of female domestics would rather
starve in New York than go to the country, or even little towns around for
fair wages. I think it arises from the fear that they will not find associates. A
social feeling is natural, but should be controlled by circumstances. With
many, the great drawback is the fear that they may not be able to have the
privileges of their own particular church; and still another is that they may
not find the place to which they go, or are sent, exactly what it is
represented to be, and the expense that would be incurred by a return.
Domestics are more respected in the country, and treated more as members
of the family, than domestics in towns. The preference is usually given, in
towns and cities, to domestics from the country, because of their superior

Page 541

strength and better health. "For a person to be a good servant, there are
three requisites: first, she must have professional skill in her calling;
secondly, she must be a good woman; thirdly, she must have feelings of
kindliness and regard to her master and mistress." In 1853, domestics were
receiving wages in San Francisco proportioned to the prices paid for
everything else. Cooks got $100 a month, and board; house servants, from
$35 to $70, and board. Chambermaids $40 to $70, and board. Prices have
fallen since 1853 in California, but good female domestics can now earn
there from $25 to $30 a month besides board. "In most towns through our
country domestics get from $1.25 to $2.50 a week, and board. We give the
rates of wages of domestics in New York (1857) at the intelligence offices.
Maids of all work, very raw, $4 per month; average, $5; good, $6 to $7.
Chambermaids—good, $6. Cooks—good, $7 to $8—extra $12 to $16.
Laundresses $8 to $10. The cooks who obtain the highest rates, sometimes
reaching $20, are employed mostly in hotels or private families, in New
York. Five or six years' education in a restaurant, during which period the
pupil is supporting herself, will thus often add seventy-five per cent. to the
market value." I have had numberless statements from different parts of
Free States that it was almost impossible to obtain good domestics. I have
just taken up a paper in which I read: "Female domestics are scarce in
Minnesota and Wisconsin, and obtain employment readily at good prices in
almost all the river towns." More particularly are female domestics scarce,
where there are factories. Girls, especially American girls, prefer to work in
factories to being servants, as they think it more honorable, and it secures to
them more time—in short, they are more their own mistresses.

449. Chambermaids.

"Of the 200,000 female servants in England, the largest in number, the
shortest in life, and of course the worst paid are the general housemaids, or
unhappy servants of all work." Chambermaids in the United States may be
classed under three heads: those in hotels, those in private families, and
those on steamboats. The business of a chambermaid in a hotel, or on a
steamboat, is an occupation affording variety in frequent change of faces.
Of course, prices and conditions are stipulated for. Many get $20 a month,

Page 542

and do the washing of the boat, that is, the table and bed linen. Others get
$25, $30, and $35 a month. On small boats, they are expected to do the
washing of the boat, but in some cases have a woman hired while in port to
assist them. On large boats, or small packet boats, there are generally two
chambermaids. The first chambermaid attends to receiving lady passengers,
seeing that they are furnished with berths, and giving them such attention as
they need. She cleans the state rooms, and wakes any lady passengers that
are to land in the night. The second chambermaid does the washing and
ironing. In some cases, the washing is sent up from the boats, while in port,
to laundries. But clothes are thought to be injured in that way, and the plan
is not so popular as while the novelty lasted. Most of the rivers of the
United States are either too low to be navigable, or are frozen over, part of
the year; so, constant employment in that way cannot be found. The first
chambermaid on the steamboat E. received $20 a month. Her business was
to wait on the ladies. She had several hours' time that she could devote to
sewing for herself. The second chambermaid did the washing of the boat,
and received $15 per month. A steamboat chambermaid told me she
averages $20 a month (and board, of course); but, in addition to her services
as chambermaid, is required to do the washing for the boat; that is, the
sheets, table linen, and towels. In families, the prices for chambermaids are
about the same as at hotels, and of course the duties are pretty much the
same, except that in families all of a chambermaid's time is expected. In a
hotel, a chambermaid is often through her work in the early part of the
afternoon, and has several hours as her own. We think it advisable for a
servant to keep a place with good people, even if her wages are less, rather
than with more selfish and more remunerative people. The first mentioned
would feel an interest in, and be more ready and willing to do for a servant
in sickness or distress. Besides, they would be more apt to keep a watch
over her welfare, should circumstances intervene to bring about a
separation. It does not answer well for servants to move about much from
place to place; it is likely to create suspicion of unfaithfulness or want of
qualification. Yet, if they are not comfortable and satisfied, I would advise
them to move, if confident they have a prospect of bettering their condition.
The usual wages of chambermaids in cities are from $1.50 to $2.50 per
week. In the Northern cities, white chambermaids are rather better paid than
in Southern, as colored servants are preferred in the South. For doing

Page 543

housework by the day women receive in New York, fifty, seventy-five
cents, and $1; for cleaning stores, they often receive $1.25 per day. Tidy,
honest American girls will not find much difficulty in getting situations. If
every family in New York city would take a girl, and either instruct her
thoroughly or have her instructed in one branch of domestic service, there
would not be such universal complaint of bad servants. In Paris, men are
employed in some hotels as chambermaids. In a newspaper, we met with
the following paragraph some time ago; "Females are so scarce in some of
the interior towns of California, that men have to be employed to do the
chamberwork."

450. Cooks.

I know of several benevolent institutions in Philadelphia and New York
where poor women are furnished with employment. From most of them
sewing is given out; but, in a few, housework is given to those who cannot
sew. A school of cookery is now in operation in London. The object is to
give instruction, gratis, to the lower classes, in preparing the most common
articles of food in general use. It was established by Miss Burdett Coutts.
To acquire the higher branches of the art requires much time and practice.
Much of the nutriment of food is lost in cooking. Health depends much on
the kind of food eaten, and the way in which it is prepared. Simple diet is
most healthy; yet what contributes to the nourishment of one person may
not to another. Persons can better learn what is nutritious and beneficial to
them in health than it were possible for an Æsculapius to prescribe. Eating
too hastily and too hurriedly, when the mind is excited and agitated, is one
cause of bad health. The modes of preparing food, in the most wholesome
way, should be a matter of study and interest to all engaged in a matter
where health is so much at stake. Articles of food that contribute to the
nourishment of every part of the body should be used. Children should have
not only wholesome food, but as much as nature craves, when the system is
in a state of health. A morbid appetite, of course, should be regulated. Some
cooks devote themselves exclusively to the making and baking of pastry. At
hotels they command a good price. In New York and Philadelphia, cooks
receive from $1.50 to $5 a week, but in the small towns adjoining do not get

Page 544

more than from $1 to $1.50. Much of the success of servants will depend
upon themselves. They may rest assured they will be able to please most
families if they are good-natured, honest, truthful, active, and willing to do
what they can. They will need patience. They should consider there are
many trials, cares, and griefs attendant on those occupying a more
responsible station. Punctuality is a desirable item in a cook. A skilful cook,
of taste and experience, can, at any time, for reasonable wages, obtain a
situation in one of the Northern cities. Hotel cooks are most frequently in
demand, and receive from $12 to $25. A woman who cooks for a saloon
frequented by gentlemen only, in a business part of New York, told me that
she goes at 8 in the morning and remains, generally, until 2 o'clock next
morning, when she goes home. She is paid $12 a month for her work,
having her meals besides. A colored man, a public cook, told me he
employs two or three women to assist him in getting up parties. He pays
them from $6 to $7 a week. He loans plate for parties, charging for plated
knives twenty-five cents a dozen, and the same price for forks, and thirty-
seven or fifty cents for a basket. He keeps some articles, but hires most
from another party. Sometimes he will receive three or four orders a day;
then again he may not have one for two weeks. It is a very irregular
business. He prepares lunches for bankers and political men, mostly; but
finds it inconvenient, as these lunches are often given in their offices, and
he prepares the dishes at home, and must have them warm when served up.
In some offices, he can have an apartment for that purpose; in others, he
cannot. A colored woman, who goes on a propeller in summer, and does the
cooking for ten men, told me she receives $19 a month. The boats at New
York seldom stop running longer than three months in the year. She thinks
the trouble in New York is, you cannot have one kind of work regularly. In
Germany, most of the women, in every class of society, learn to cook. In
Stuttgart, a wealthy man died, leaving a certain sum, the interest of which
goes to a given number of the best hotel cooks, to teach a limited number of
young women the art. In some cities in Germany, ladies pay something to
pastry cooks at hotels and restaurants for instruction in cooking.

451. Dining-Room Waiters.

Page 545

It would be well, had we such laws as England, for the protection and rights
of servants. There, a servant cannot have her character scandalized, her
good name maligned, or her faithfulness as a servant belied. Neither may a
servant say aught that is false against her mistress. Scandalizing becomes,
oftentimes, a curse in our Free States, and consequently self-respect, with
servants, becomes, to a great extent, a defunct virtue. Nor is the fault
confined to one party. Both are often culpable—mistress and servant. A
good character is the best capital a servant can possess. Servants have an
opportunity of improving themselves, and gaining much practical
information from intercourse with their mistresses while in the discharge of
their duties. If worthy American girls would get situations as domestics in
respectable families, they would be likely to fare better than by working in
shops; for they would lay by more money, secure the interests and good
wishes of their employers, and be more certain of lasting employment. A
servant should be active and quick in motion, to perform well the duties of a
waiter. In 1854, from seventeen to twenty-four white girls were employed
as dining-room waiters at the Delavan House, Albany, N. Y. Their wages
were from $5 to $7, in one or two cases $8, a calendar month. The wages of
men for similar service were from $14 to $20. The ages of the women were
from seventeen to twenty-four. They dressed uniformly in calico, and were
under a head waiter—a man. At that time, women had been employed at the
establishment about two years and a half. The result was entirely
satisfactory in every respect. A gentleman inquired of the proprietor, after
he had employed them two years, if there was any inferiority to men's
service, and was informed there was not any. They were more quiet than
men, and less troublesome. In this time, only four had left the house of their
own accord, and then to be married. When more hands were needed, there
was no difficulty in getting them. It was apprehended that improprieties
might occur, from the gallantries of the gentlemen. No difficulty of the kind
had been experienced. It was suggested that it might be otherwise in a
liquor house. In April, 1860, we had a few lines from the proprietor of the
Delavan House, saying he found women would not answer for first-class
hotels, where the crowd is very great, as the work is too severe. He changed
the plan of having them in 1858.

Page 546

452. Ladies' Maids.

Some of the most wealthy or self-indulgent ladies have a female attendant
to dress and wait on them, but it is not so common in the United States as in
older and more wealthy countries. In Slave States, a colored woman,
graceful and good natured, is often set apart from the family servants for
this purpose. The difficulty that attends the taking of a colored servant in
travelling, sometimes calls for a white attendant to act in this capacity. The
business is light, and brings good wages. A maid should endeavor to secure
a place with a lady that is amiable and patient. She will find ability to
perform the services of a lady's hair dresser a valuable acquisition.

453. Nurses for Children.

None should enter this occupation unless they have a love for children. It
requires affection and patience. Added to this, is needed a degree of mild
firmness that children find it difficult to resist. It requires strength too, and a
lady had better, if possible, furnish a grown nurse for her child. Nurses
receive as wages from $1 to $1.25 per week. Wet nurses receive higher
wages. Being able to speak the French and German languages correctly, is
in some places a desirable qualification. Fashionable and educated people,
who desire to have their children early instructed in the languages, are
willing to pay a better price for such a nurse. The habit of nursing children
is indicated, in both mothers and nursery maids, by the right shoulder being
larger and more elevated than the left. C. thinks it would be well for young
American girls to devote themselves to domestic service—thinks it a
misplaced pride which prevents their doing so. Many would certainly be
much better off in every respect than they now are, and, if their affairs were
well conducted, would save money.

454. Saloon Attendants.

"This class of labor is performed by young men and girls. Although the girls
are preferred in some places, and do make most excellent waitresses, their
remuneration is not as high as that paid to men. In some cases the men get

Page 547

as high as $14 a month; in most cases, however, they do not receive more
than $12 a month. The girls get paid from $8 to $10 a month, varying
according to experience. The hours employed do not exceed, in most cases,
ten per day. These rates are exclusive of board and lodging. Where lodgings
are not provided, an allowance is made for the purpose." The ladies that T.
employs in his saloon, board in the International—a hotel connected with
the saloon and confectionery. He pays them $6 a month, besides their board.
M., Broadway, pays those that stay in his confectionery $12 a month, and
their board. In the northern part of France, women are employed on some of
the packet boats as table waiters. They are young and pretty, and
misconduct among them is very rare.

455. Washers, Ironers, and Manglers.

The plan of washing by steam is said to have been practised many years
back in France. There were, some years ago, over 300 different models of
washing machines at the Patent Office in Washington. Some families have
their washing done by hand, some by machinery, and some at laundries.
Where washing, ironing, and mangling are carried on extensively, it is
mostly by men, but women are employed to do the labor. It is thought by
some that clothes are injured when washed at laundries. We do not know
whether it originates from the plan of washing, or the carelessness of those
employed. In New York is a public washing house, where, for four cents an
hour, steam, water, and troughs can be used for washing clothes. At the
same price, the privileges of the wringing machine, the drying room, and
the ironing room are granted. A mangler costs from $50 to $100. Those that
are operated on by steam cost more, and are often used in laundries. A
woman told me that she is paid fifteen cents a dozen for mangling sheets
and table cloths. She can mangle eight or nine dozen pieces a day, and so
earn from $1.20 to $1.25. It takes but a very short time to become expert.
Strong arms and a strong back are more necessary than anything else. She
could work her mangle all day, but it would be a hard day's work. She has
much work in summer, before people go to the country. The prices given for
family washing and ironing by the dozen, range from fifty cents to $1.
Others make arrangements by the parcel, at so much a week or month.

Page 548

Those employed in ironing receive good wages. Where new shirts are done
up for stores, the best prices are given. A woman employed in an
establishment of the kind in Cincinnati, told me that she received for her
work, which was ironing the bosoms of new shirts for stores, $7 a week.
She ironed thirty or forty a day, averaging one, I think, every twelve
minutes. I called on Mrs. S., who has a laundry. Women in that branch are
well paid, both principals and employées. Some of the laundry keepers in
New York go down to Castle Garden and get fresh emigrant girls. They give
them their board until they can wash right well (for about four weeks), then
pay them by the week or the piece. If by the week, $6 a month and their
board, or allow them $1.50 a week to pay their board. They instruct some
hands in ironing, if they need hands in that department. When qualified,
they pay three cents a shirt for ironing; or, if by the week, §4.75. It is most
satisfactory generally to both parties to pay by the piece. The best doers up
of muslin and cotton goods are the French. New shirts are sent from Boston,
Philadelphia, &c., to New York, to be done up. The openings for ironers are
good, and the work pays well. A right active, skilful hand can iron fifty
shirts a day, and so earn $1.50. When women are employed by the week,
they are required to iron twenty-five shirts a day, and, if brisk, may get
through by one or two o'clock. Mrs. S. charges $1.50 a dozen for store
shirts, and $1 for others. Washers earn $12 a month; ironers, $21; and
starchers, $14. The girls employed in laundries are mostly Irish, with strong
muscular power. A shirt manufacturer told me that ironers of new shirts are
much needed. He cannot obtain enough. Ironers can learn the business in
three months. Ironers earn from $5 to $8 per week. I called on A. G., who
charges from $1 to $1.50 a dozen for doing up new shirts, according to the
quality and the work on them. She pays her ironers from $10 to $12 a
month. I called at B.'s laundry. The proprietor and his family are Americans.
They do only store shirts. They employ more than one hundred hands, who
are boarded and paid by the month. Learners receive their board. Ironers are
paid best. Those that work fast get through earliest in the day, each one
having a certain number to do. I called at another laundry, where I was told
all the girls receive $1.75 per week for board money. While learning, they
are paid their board money, and more, if their services are worth it. The
washers are paid $12 a month, and ironers from $10 to $25, boarding
themselves. Some are fast, and some are slow; some smart, and some

Page 549

stupid. The ironers are paid 2¼ cents a piece for common shirts, 2½ for fine
ones. The proprietor says experienced ironers are so scarce, you never find
a good one in an intelligence office. If a laundryman fails, a good ironer can
go to another laundry and get a place at once. At another place, I was told
their washers receive $5 a month and their board. Ironers are paid by the
month, and required to do so many in that time. She corroborated the
statement of the other that a good ironer need never want a place. I heard a
washerwoman say that, as the system is very much relaxed by washing, the
vapor from the suds and soiled clothes renders it unhealthy. H. pays ironers
$10 a month and board; $1.75 a week. Some he boards in his own house.
An ironer is expected to iron from twenty to thirty a day, according to the
contract. It requires a long time to iron well. Almost all washers and ironers
are Irish girls—they are stronger and quicker in their motions. He has
washing done only for the New York stores, because the time and trouble of
going to steamboats for those from other places and returning them, are
more than he wishes.

Page 550

MISCELLANEOUS OCCUPATIONS, AND WORKERS
THEREIN.

456. Backgammon-Board Finishers.

We called at L.'s backgammon-board manufactory, and saw a girl about
thirteen years old, who has worked at the business for one year. She pastes
the morocco on the back of the boards, and lays the gold leaf on, which is
passed under a press, and receives, from a man who has charge of it, the
ornamental gilding. They used to employ girls, and paid $4 a week,
working from 7 to 6 o'clock—eleven hours. L. does not take learners—it is
too much trouble. K. used to employ girls in finishing boards, but those he
had were not steady and reliable.

457. Balloon Makers.

Large balloons are stitched up by sewing machines. Prof. L.'s required
several days' work. Prof. W.'s sister and niece make both cotton and silk
balloons. They have the substance put on the silk by men with a brush.
They think that part of the work would be rather hard on women, because of
the stooping and bending.

458. Billiard-Table Finishers.

I saw G., who employs one woman to make and put on the billiard bags at
the corners and sides. He pays her such wages for her work that she can by
industry earn $1.50 a day. He does not know of any woman that makes it a
regular business, but thinks, if a woman could engage all that kind of work
to be had at the billiard manufactories in New York city, it would be a good
business, and probably pay about $3 a day. It is very easy work, and would
require but a few weeks' practice. Besides, it would not require any capital,

Page 551

as the manufacturers furnish the materials. They pay twenty-five cents for
making a cover of unbleached domestic, when two seams are sewed and it
is hemmed at the ends. The cloth that is fastened on the table could not be
put on by a woman, as it requires too much strength. Netting the bags is
done by hand. I was told by a manufacturer that two women could do all the
work for New York.

459. Bill Posters.

This is a business confined to cities. W. heard of one woman that went
through New York distributing circulars for some benevolent institution. I
do not see why a woman might not be so employed. An immense quantity
of waste paper is sold in London to grocers, butchers, fishmongers,
poulterers, and others that need paper for wrapping up the articles they sell
to purchasers.

460. Block Cutters.

Block cutters prepare blocks of wood for the coloring of wall paper. A block
about eighteen inches square and two inches thick is made perfectly
smooth. The pattern is then traced on it with a lead pencil. It is then cut with
chisels, which are of all sizes and many shapes. Each one, as required, is
driven into the wood with a mallet. It requires considerable physical
strength, but is remunerative when sufficient orders are given to keep one
constantly employed. Each color, and even shade, in wall paper, requires a
separate block. It is the same case where wooden blocks are used for
printing calicoes. The wall-paper establishments in Philadelphia are the
most extensive in the United States. A lady in Philadelphia, engaged in the
business, told me that she got about $10 a week, working ten hours a day,
but that she had not orders enough to keep her constantly employed. At N.
& C.'s paper-hanging factory, New York, they employ six male block
cutters, who earn from $2 to $2.25 a day. A boy, when apprenticed to a
block cutter, receives $2.50 a week the first year, $3 the next, $4 the next,
and $5 the last. There are probably from sixty to one hundred block cutters
in New York city. Block letters, we were told, are made by machinery. A

Page 552

gentleman in Maine writes: "There are but very few females in this section
who work at block cutting (blocks for printing oil carpets); but three or four
in this State, I think. I have none with me excepting my wife. It is a branch
of business that females cannot carry on alone, as the most of it requires
considerable labor that women are not able to perform." In the census
returns of Great Britain for 1850, we find four women under the head of
block cutters.

461. Boatwomen.

In the countries of Europe, it is not unusual to see women employed as
rowers of boats, on the lakes and rivers. On the lakes of Scotland, made
famous by the poetry and fiction of Sir Walter Scott, women are seen
waiting in their little boats to take passengers out on the lakes. In the
sealochs of Scotland, fisherwomen manage their own boats. In Germany,
women also ply the oar. In the United States, it is seldom done; but I think
Miss Murray, in her Travels, mentions being rowed upon a lake in New
York State by a woman. Some of the Indian women, of the Arctic regions,
are noted for their skill in the management of a boat; and some of the
women of the Polynesian Islands are distinguished in the same way. In the
census of Great Britain for 1850, in class eight, and third division (Carriers
on Canals), are reported 1,708 bargewomen over twenty years of age, and
525 under that age.

462. Bone Collectors.

Some collectors of bones sell them to people who make soup of them, and
sell it to the poor at a penny a bowl. Some sell their bones to soap
manufacturers, who boil them to obtain the marrow and oily substance, and
then sell them to button makers, or makers of cane and whip handles. Some
sell them to glue manufacturers, who boil them to obtain the gelatine for
making glue. Some have establishments where they are ground and sold as
a fertilizer for the soil. Some bone gatherers give toys to children for
collecting bones. I saw a girl gathering some, who told me she sold them at
fifteen cents a half bushel. She gathers sometimes half a bushel a day, and

Page 553

sometimes more. A boy told me he got thirty cents a bushel for bones; and
another, that he got one cent a pound. The profit must be great of those who
sell them again, judging from the price paid by the makers of cane handles.
Yet it may be, so much is not paid by manufacturers for those taken from
the street as for new ones.

463. Bottlers and Labellers.

In large establishments where wine, porter, ale, or beer is corked, women
could, and in some places do, have the job. When it is done from day to day,
it affords a reliable resource. The payment is generally, I believe, by the
dozen or hundred bottles. "In one house or more, in London, are seen from
one hundred to one hundred and fifty women bottling pickles all day long,
at the charge of sixpence a score of bottles, at which an industrious woman,
without any extra exertion, will earn her two shillings a day." In
establishments for the sale of patent medicines and other articles of a
similar nature, women are employed. I saw a man bottling lager beer by
hand. He is paid $15 a month, and full board. For labelling, another
received $6 a month, and full board. In Europe, where women do such
work, they wear wooden shoes to keep their feet dry. A woman could as
well cork as a man, when it is done by hand, and, no doubt, could use the
machines employed for corking. A large manufacturer of hair restorative
employs two girls to put it up, and pays from $3 to $4 a week. A brewer
writes that "women might be employed in the bottling department, cleaning,
filling, corking, &c., but the proportion would be small in comparison with
the number of men at work." A woman that buys and sells empty bottles
says she and her husband made a comfortable living at it. If they make three
cents profit on a dozen they do well. They send a wagon to hotels,
groceries, and private houses, if the number is sufficient to justify it. They
find a ready sale for their bottles. The bottles must be washed clean before
they will buy them. I was told at the office of Mrs. W.'s S. Syrup, that girls
are paid by the week, from $5 to $6. R., in putting up his Ready Relief,
employs several girls to fill bottles, cork and label them. They earn from $3
to $6 a week. They are paid by the quantity, and the work is all done in
daylight. Until the last few days they have had work all the year round. S.

Page 554

employs from five to ten girls, and pays from $4 to $5 a week for bottling
medicines and putting up Seidlitz powders. He keeps his hands all the year.
They can either sit or stand. He does not know of any women being so
employed South or West. L. employs three, and pays $5 a week, ten hours a
day. One is employed in putting up Seidlitz powders—the others in bottling.
All three work at the store. K. employs three girls to put up Seidlitz
powders, perfumery, &c. He pays from $3 to $3.50 a week. B. & M., stove-
polish manufacturers, employ girls to put up the polish in papers. The paper
is folded on a wooden block and pasted, then withdrawn, and the polish put
in and sealed.

464. Broom Makers.

C. employs a girl to paint the handles of brooms, paying $4 a week, of ten
hours a day. After New Year is the most busy season. It requires but a short
time to learn. A man can earn at broom making $1.25 to $1.75 a day. At
some of the broom factories girls are employed to assort the broom by
laying perfect pieces of a certain length in one pile, and those shorter in
another, &c. Only strong, robust women could perform the entire process of
broom making.

465. Bronzes.

When a bronze appearance is desired for some metals, bronze powders are
used. I have been told that a patent has been granted for the making of
them. Parties that we think competent to know tell us that "bronze powders
are made in very few establishments in this country, and they think women
and boys, much more than men, are both here and in Europe engaged in the
making and working of bronze. They suggest that manufacturers, printers,
japanners, and all who have operatives engaged in handling bronze powders
should, in all cases, see that their people are protected, by gauze, sponge, or
some sort of screen over the mouth and nostrils, from inhaling the fine
particles that arise and impregnate the atmosphere where the powders are
handled, and which are liable to cause serious injury to those who inhale
them. The same might also be said of Dutch metal or gold leaf used in

Page 555

gilding house paper and other things." Magnetic masks are used by some
grinders and polishers to prevent iron filings from passing down their
throats. We suppose they would answer also for bronzers. Men oppose the
introduction of women into the business. I saw three sisters bronzing in
New York. They told me each receives $5 a week, and works about nine
hours a day. It requires but a few months' practice to become perfect, and
seemed to be an easy business. The young ladies employed at it looked
genteel enough to grace any calling. Men get $10 a week. Women do it just
as well, if not a little better, and accomplish just as much, yet receive only
$5. I called in the store of the Ornamental Iron Works, New York. The
young man says they employ about twenty-five German bronzers. It is a
work easily done, and would require but a short time to learn. Women could
just as well do it as men. If women were employed, it would be desirable to
have a separate room for them to work in. Their men work ten hours a day,
and receive from $1.50 to $2 a day.

466. Canvas and Cotton Bag Makers.

The firm of B. E. C. & Co. employ about forty females during the whole
year, and seventy during the summer. Men cut out the bags. The folding and
turning is done by little girls, who receive, some $1.50 per week, and some
more, while the sewing is done by machines, for which the operators
receive $4.50 per week. I do not remember what the spoolers were paid.
This business is confined exclusively to seaports or river cities, and is not
very extensive. The usual time required is ten hours. For extra work, girls
receive double wages. C. & Co. have certain regulations, requiring morality
and order. The girls were more cheerful, neat, and genteel-looking than the
general run of work girls. They have a dressing room, where each one has a
peg for her bonnet and shawl, and a small box in which to lay her dinner.
They have washbowls and all the conveniences needed. Spring and fall are
their most busy times, but they are able to keep their hands all the year in
prosperous times. They are always busy just before the sailing of vessels, as
they supply many vessels with bags to carry grain. They are well located for
their business, being immediately on the river. The prospect for learners C.
thinks very good, as bags are considered almost as essential as boats; and

Page 556

now they can be purchased so cheaply they are used for purposes to which
they were never applied before. V. employs fifteen girls all the year, and
sometimes extra help. Some girls get $3.50, and some $4 a week, of ten
hours a day. Most of their machines are propelled by hot air. They never
have any trouble in getting hands. There are a few bag factories in the West.
W. & O. make cotton bags for flour, seed, grain, &c. We saw the girls
sewing on machines moved by steam. They are paid $3 a week, ten hours a
day. Their girls are not punctual, and are so often absent that they find it
necessary to employ more hands than they want, that they may not get out
of a supply. I met an old woman with bolts of heavy unbleached cotton,
who was going to make up bags, sewing them with the needle. She receives
seventy-five cents for one hundred bags. A bag manufacturer in Boston
writes: "We pay by the week; girls, from $3 to $4—men, $7.25. The men's
branch requires from six to twelve months to become proficient and
reliable. Women require about one week. Perseverance and industry are
needed by workers. Business in future is dubious. Winter and spring are the
best seasons, but we are generally employed ten months out of the year. The
hands work ten hours, unless driven up by brisk trade, when extra wages are
paid pro rata. They receive all the comforts which women of this class
require, viz., sufficient to live upon, with a small surplus for the priest, and
to send to 'ould Ireland.' The labor of the men and women are entirely
dissimilar. The advantages have been entirely in favor of the city of Boston;
but from present indications, I fear that this business, if done at all, will be
done in the cities of Charleston, Savannah, Mobile, and New Orleans. The
women can scarcely read; none can write. They can have free access to the
city library and free evening schools. Board, $1.25—mostly whole families
in one room."

467. Carriage and Car Painters.

At a very large car establishment in New York, I was told that when they
take boys to learn ornamental painting, they pay $2.40 a week the first year.
After that, eight cents a day more, the next year; and so continue until the
apprenticeship expires. Three or four years are usually given. We saw a
foreman ornamenting the side of a car to be sent to Liverpool, who was

Page 557

taken by the firm when a penniless boy. He now has $3,000 deposited with
his employers, drawing a handsome interest. The painters are paid twenty-
five cents an hour while ornamenting cars, and omnibuses. They do their
work better than when paid by the piece. They prefer Germans, as they have
more taste, and are more easily obtained. Miss H. knew a young lady that
painted a cutter. Her father was a coach painter, and she painted in oils on
canvas. A lady, if she would give time and attention, might become an
ornamental painter of carriages, omnibuses, and cars. E. G. & Co., car
builders, in Troy, write: "There are some portions of our ornamental
painting women might be instructed to perform, that would be suitable for
them, and, if proficient, they could make good wages at it."

468. Carriage Trimmers.

I was told by G., a carriage maker, that women usually make the cushions
and trimmings for carriages. At a railroad-car and omnibus factory, the
trimmer told me the work was too hard for women. The sewing is all done
by hand. Much wax must be used on the thread, and a machine will not
draw the threads tight enough. A shield of leather is worn on the little
finger. I have read that "landscape painters, upholsterers, and trimmers of
cars and carriages receive from $1.50 to $2 per day, of ten hours, in New
York and New Jersey. Women are not generally employed; but they are
occasionally serviceable in preparing the hair for seats, by which they could
make, at steady employment, from $3 to $5 per week." B., at his carriage
manufactory, said he intends employing two women to make curtains for
his carriages. He now employs a girl to make covers for them. He thinks the
curtains and much of the lining might be stitched by a machine. He thinks
women might make fair wages at it—say, $4 or $5 a week. A carriage
maker in Boston writes me: "I employ female labor only to the amount of
about $50 a year. It is done by the piece, and a woman who is tolerably
smart with her needle can in a very short time learn to do it, and can earn
from eight to ten cents an hour. The work is irregular, a large portion of it
coming in the months of April, May, and June, and sometimes requiring to
be done at short notice." Car builders in Albany, N. Y., write: "Dear Madam
—In reply to your inquiries, would say that, out of seventy-five to eighty

Page 558

hands employed by us, two only are women. One has charge of a sewing
machine, the other picks curled hair. They have constant employment, at $5
a week." Carriage makers in Syracuse reply to a circular, saying: "We
employ one lady to run the sewing machine in making leather and cloth
tops for carriages. The work is healthy. We pay from $3 to $4 per week, of
ten hours a day. Girls receive from one third to one half as much as men. It
requires about two months to learn. Learners receive from $2 to $2.50 per
week. The prospect for more such work to women is increasing. The
employment is steady. There is a demand for women capable of good,
heavy stitching." C—s, of New Haven, write: "We employ about twelve
women in carriage trimming, running sewing machines, &c. Good wages
are earned—from $5 to $9 per week, of ten hours a day. We pay mostly by
the week. At the same kind of work our girls earn as much as men. The
main part of their business being sewing, women are preferable at the same
wages as men. In two days any ordinary person can learn to use a sewing
machine; but to learn all parts of the business would require from two to
three months' time. Girls receive a small compensation while learning. They
are never out of employment, except in hard times, like the past winter. Two
thirds are American girls. The girls employed by us are intelligent and
happy; earning good wages, and always have work when we are doing
anything. Board, $2.50."

469. Chair Seaters.

The putting of seats in chairs, the material being of cane, hickory, flags,
willow, and corn husks, is carried on very often in orphan asylums,
institutions for the blind, or for the deaf and dumb, and in penitentiaries.
There is a large establishment in Worcester, Mass., where women are
employed. At the House of Refuge, on Randall's Island, I saw the boys
seating chairs with rattan. It is learned in three months. It is very severe on
the fingers at first. In a small second-hand furniture store, I saw a woman
seating chairs with cane. I stepped in and inquired of the woman how long
it required to learn the work. She said she learned it in one day, of a German
who kept a furniture store next door, and who wished her to work for him.
She could seat two chairs in a day, and earn by doing so a dollar. For such a

Page 559

chair as she would be paid sixty-two cents the cane would cost twelve
cents, leaving her a profit of fifty cents a chair for her work. It cuts the
fingers some. She has most family work in winter; but her husband can
always get enough for her from the stores. Another German woman seating
chairs said she could seat three in a day. She charged fifty cents apiece for
ordinary chairs. At a chair-seating factory, I saw several girls caning chairs
for the proprietor, who receives orders from stores. We were told that it is
always piecework. Some girls earn from sixty to seventy-five cents a day.
They have work all the year. The girls were very clean-looking. They stood
while at work. A girl told us it would take but three weeks to learn. Work is
most apt to be slack in January, February, August, and September. The work
is mostly done by German women. At another factory, I was told the
prospect for work is very good. The man said, three years ago he had more
work for his women than they could do. They are not paid while learning,
and have work the same all the year. His best hands can earn $4 or $5 a
week. The work is always paid for by the piece. The superintendent of the
Monroe County Penitentiary, N. Y., writes: "We employ our female convicts
at the manufacture of both flag and cane chair seats. They are equally
adapted to the employment of women; the flag seats, however, cannot be
made except near a chair manufactory, because of the expense of
transporting the frames upon which they are made. The cane-seat frames
can be easily transported; but the market is overstocked, and has been for
years. They are made in many Northern and more Eastern prisons, and are
made by both sexes. At the Albany (N. Y.) Prison, the females are employed
at cane-chair seating, and at some part of the manufacture of shoes. At the
Erie County Penitentiary, Buffalo, N. Y., the female convicts are employed
at cane chair seating and packing hardware, manufactured by the male
convicts; and at the Onondago County Penitentiary, Syracuse, caning chair
seats. New York, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, and Michigan are the only
States, probably, having county prisons, where the convicts are regularly
employed. Cane seating is a business employing many females (free labor)
in Massachusetts and New Hampshire, and is well adapted to girls and
women of the lower grades of intelligence; and the same is applicable to
flag seating. They can earn, on an average, about thirty cents per day. The
business may be acquired in a few days—say, thirty." The proprietor of the
Oswego chair factory writes: "I have in my employ about forty women and

Page 560

girls in the cane-seating department. An attentive worker, possessing
ordinary skill, can earn about fifty cents per day, of ten hours. Young
persons of either sex are much more sprightly at the work than older
persons." By a chair manufacturer in Fitchburg, Mass., several hundreds of
women, girls, and children are employed in seating chairs, which they do at
home.

470. China Menders.

All parts of this work are very suitable for women. Covering and repairing
fans, mending china, wax dolls, works of virtu, &c., require care and taste.
Connected with this might be the mending of jewelry, card cases, work
boxes, and other ornaments of the toilet. A china mender told me he
estimates his time at twenty-five cents an hour. His prices vary, according to
the quality of the article, and the time and care required. He sells the
composition for cementing at twenty-five cents a bottle. His work was
beautifully done. I talked with another china mender and glass driller. After
the fourth of July he goes to the country and mends ware. Some learn his
business in a short time. He charges $10 to teach to make cement, drill, and
mend articles. He thinks, in Boston, Philadelphia, and Brooklyn, there are
probably openings. He says money can be made at the business by
advertising, and having some one to go for the articles and collect the
money. He is recommended by one customer to another, and so has enough
to do; yet, from the want of capital, barely makes a living. If he could get a
place in a china store, ladies could get their china mended there, and the
store would give him some. He makes between thirty and forty kinds of
cement. Some of them stand water. If a lady would learn, he would pay her
$3 a week for her services.

471. Cigar Makers.

At F.'s, Philadelphia, we were told that girls who make cigars are usually
idle; but when we afterward saw the rapid motion of their fingers, we felt
disposed to doubt the charge. Habits of order, temperance, industry, and the
reverse, are said to run in some trades. F. had heard some employer

Page 561

lamenting that there is no such thing as a sober reed-cutter. May not the
flavor of tobacco, in making cigars, produce an excitement that craves some
artificial stimulus? We think it would not be strange if it did; but have no
means of ascertaining, and hope that it does not. Bending over was the only
item mentioned by F. as being uncomfortable or injurious in the work. "In
Philadelphia, the whole number of employés, journeymen and girls,
engaged in making cigars, is fully four thousand. The average labor
expended upon each thousand cigars costs $3.50, and the average cost of
each thousand cigars is $8." In Philadelphia, many Americans work at the
business; but in New York, almost all are Germans. In Germany, many
women make cigars. A cigar maker told me that some women find the odor
too strong; and even men with weak lungs are likely to have the
consumption, if they work at it long. He pays women the same price as
men, and he pays according to the quality and the workmanship—$2, $3,
$4, $5, and $6 per thousand. Quickness in the use of the fingers is
necessary. He has never known women to make the finest cigars. At K.'s,
New York, I saw some bright, pleasant-looking girls at work. They are paid
six cents a hundred. One girl told me she generally made thirteen hundred a
day—seventy-eight cents. Women receive the same rates of wages as men.
The son of the proprietor told me he had thought the work not altogether
healthy; for the men you see working at the business are pale and thin. His
father's girls are kept busy all the year. Girls generally make from $3 to $4 a
week. There are enough of girls at it in New York, though there are but few
places where girls are employed. The atmosphere almost stifled me, the
tobacco scent was so strong. I inquired of a girl if she thought it unhealthy.
She said no—that when she first came there, her head ached all the time,
and she had constant nausea of the stomach; but now she never notices the
smell of the tobacco, and does not feel any bad effects. She said she had
learned to make cigars in three weeks; another girl said she learned it in one
week. In summer, when the days are long, a girl earns most. A bundler is
paid the best price, as she receives six cents a hundred. It is very dirty work.
A cigar dealer told me he pays from $2 up to $6 per thousand. A man can
make two hundred per day, and so earn from 40 cents to $1.20. He thinks it
not unhealthy, where there is a circulation of air. The rapidity in making
cigars depends much on the quality of the tobacco. Some leaves are not so
well dried, nor so fine and perfect, as others. Such, of course, require a

Page 562

longer time to make. D., New York, says women mostly make the quality
called sixes; and he knows that, farther East, in making that kind they often
earn $1 a day. They can make the common ones more rapidly than men. He
attributes the inability of women to make fine cigars to the want of
instruction. Men do not like to teach them, because they are afraid of the
competition that may be created, causing them to lose work or have to do it
at lower wages. Now and then a woman may be found who makes cigars
equal to any man. It requires a knowledge of tobacco, to select the different
kinds for the various grades. Some judgment and intelligence are needed to
cut the leaf economically, and to select tobacco of proper strength for
making various brands. It is usual for a boy to serve three years, who is paid
about $30 a year, and boarded. He has boys fifteen years of age working for
him as journeymen. He says cigar makers in New York earn from $6 to $15
per week. Good hands can usually find employment. It can easily be
learned in one year. All seasons are favorable for the work. From five
hundred to fifteen hundred cigars are made in a day, according to the
expertness of the manipulator and the kind of tobacco. Machines have not
as yet been found to work well. The machine cigars are finished at the end
by hand. He remarked that machines never can succeed so well as men,
until they have the brains of men. A very nice widow, who kept a cigar store
in New York, told me that many more women are employed in making
cigars in Philadelphia than in New York; but the cigars made and sold there
are mostly of the cheap kind, selling for two or three cents apiece. Six
months' practice is required by a learner, to become perfect. Careful and
rapid movement of the fingers, and ability to use the left hand, are
desirable. I would suggest that a few smart women learn of a competent
workman to make the best quality, and instruct several of their own sex. I
find the making of cigars is paid for, altogether, by the thousand, and cigar
makers earn from $3 to $18 a week. The usual price paid for a thousand
cigars is $5, and a fast worker can make fifteen hundred a day.

472. Cigar-End Finders.

Mayhew says: "There are, strictly speaking, none who make a living by
picking up the ends of cigars thrown away as useless by the smokers in the

Page 563

streets; but there are very many who employ themselves, from time to time,
in collecting them. How they are disposed of, is unknown; but it is
supposed that they are resold to some of the large manufacturers of cigars,
and go to form a component part of a new stock of the best Havanas. There
are five persons, residing in different parts of London, who are known to
purchase cigar ends. In Naples, the sale of cigar ends is a regular street
traffic. In Paris, the ends thus collected are sold as cheap tobacco to the
poor. In the low lodging-houses of London, the ends, when dried, are cut up
and sold to such of their fellow lodgers as are anxious to enjoy their pipe at
the cheapest possible rate."

473. Cinder Gatherers.

I saw some girls gathering cinders. They burn them at home, after washing
them. One pailful lasts from one and a half to two days. The larger girls
gather two pails a day, generally; the smaller girls each gather one.

474. Clear Starchers.

The doing up of muslin, in large cities, has made for itself a separate
calling. Where there is constant employment, it pays well. Mrs. N. charges
from sixteen to twenty-five cents for doing up a set of muslin. She does
most of the work herself, as she feels responsible for the way in which it is
done, and would be afraid a stranger might tear or burn the muslin. When
she has not enough to do, she fills up her time crocheting for the stores. I
think the best locations must be in a part of the city where the best
residences are.

475. Clock Makers.

The amount and variety of wooden clocks manufactured in this country are
very great. The low price at which they sell, puts it in the power of almost
every one to purchase. Clock-case and clock-movement making are two
distinct branches. Connecticut is the only State in which clock movements

Page 564

are made; but there are many shops all over the North in which the cases are
manufactured. In 1845, there were twenty establishments in New York city,
in which the cases were made. "Wages of clock makers are poor. Women
are occasionally employed in painting the cases of clocks, painting the
dials, and making part of the movements." The New Haven Clock Company
employ women to paint the glass tablets, and in lettering, or putting the
figures on the dial, at which work they can earn from 90 cents to $1 per day,
of ten hours. They also use quite a number in making trimmings, and the
lighter part of the movements, at which they earn about seventy-five cents
per day. All their work is done by the piece. The time necessary to learn
depends much on the intelligence and aptness of the person. Manufacturers
of clock dials in Farmington, Conn., write: "We employ twelve American
women figuring clock dials. The spirit of turpentine used is unhealthy to
some. They are paid by the piece, and average $2.50, with board. Men are
not employed in the same department. It requires about four weeks to learn,
and learners are furnished with board. The amount of employment in future
is indefinite. Fall, winter, and spring are the best seasons for work; but
constant employment is given by us. Board, $2."

476. Clothes-Pin Makers.

A clothes-pin manufacturer in Vermont writes: "Women are employed in
packing clothes pins, and are paid from 25 to 50 cents per day, usually
working ten hours. Our women are Americans. The clothes-pin business
should be carried on in a sparsely settled community, where timber can be
obtained at cheap rates."

477. Clothes Repairers.

We have seen it suggested that shops for repairing, remodelling, and
remaking ladies' clothes, would, in large cities, if conducted by competent
persons, probably yield a support. The mending of ladies' shoes, and
mending second-hand ones to sell again, could employ the time of a
number.

Page 565

478. Cork Assorters and Sole Stitchers.

The principal use made of cork in this country is for bottle stoppers. It is
also used in making cork soles for shoes. Cork is mostly imported from
Spain, Portugal, and the south of France, in large blocks, and cut in the
shapes wanted. A member of a large cork-cutting company at the East
writes: "In France, Spain, and Portugal, women are employed to a limited
extent in cutting the smaller description of corks, and a few are also
employed in England, but not to any extent." He thinks the employment not
suitable for women, and says none are employed in this country. But from
the public reports of the city of his residence, I find women are employed as
cork cutters in that city. At one establishment, we saw men at work cutting
corks. There did not appear any objection to women employing themselves
in this trade. A good deal of practice is required. S., of New York, cuts by
machine, and employs six girls to assort. He pays 50 cents a day, of ten
hours. At another cork store, I was told they employ boys and girls to assort,
who receive from $2 to $3 a week. The coverings of cork soles are put on
by women with sewing machines. A good hand, we were told, can make
eight dozen pairs a day, and is paid eighteen cents a dozen. I suppose it
requires at least a day to cut out and baste on the covering of that number;
so the compensation is not as great as one might at first suppose. Some can
baste five dozen a day, and could stitch from twelve to twenty dozen a day.
Girls are paid 10 cents a dozen for basting, and 6 cents per dozen for
stitching them on machines. A cork-sole manufacturer in the upper part of
the city, pays for basting covers on, 10 cents a dozen. Some women baste
five or six dozen a day. It requires care and a little skill. If not properly
done, it is almost impossible to stitch them correctly. He pays 6 cents a
dozen for stitching, and an operator can stitch from twelve to twenty dozen
a day. He has often sold two hundred dozen in a year.

479. Daguerreotype Apparatus.

In most large cities, daguerreotype apparatus is manufactured. A maker of
daguerreotype cases and materials told me that his girls earn from 50 to 75
cents a day, the latter being the highest price ever paid. S., whose factory is

Page 566

in New Haven, employs about one hundred and fifty girls. It is piecework.
The business is increasing, but still is so limited that it cannot furnish
employment for a great many. No difficulty is found in getting hands, as
there are a great many girls in New Haven. No factory in the South or West.
New York is the depot for everything made in a limited quantity, and for
everything new in style. G. Brothers have given work all the year until
lately. It is piecework. Girls earn from $4 to $6 a week. It does not take a
smart girl more than eight days to learn. The busy time commences in April.
It is an increasing business. The foreman at A.'s factory said a nice, steady,
cleanly girl, that has sufficient dignity to command respect, can always get
work. One that is not very sensitive to ridicule, and independent in the
performance of duty, will be sure to succeed in that establishment; for so
many learners are taken in and need supervision, that such a one is sure to
be prized. He has seventy-five girls. It requires but a week to learn, and the
girl that instructs gets the profit of that week's labor. In some branches they
stand, in some they sit. They are paid by the piece, and earn from $2 to $6 a
week. Some of their girls learn bookbinding; so, when there is much to do
in that line, they find it difficult to get hands. The manufacture of
daguerreotype apparatus is increasing; so the prospect for learners is good.
Most of his hands have work all the year. He has found many work girls
very trifling. (No wonder, with such training, and so little encouragement to
do right.) They have all their photograph pictures colored by ladies in New
York, except the glass ones. It pays well, and is done at home. I think some
lady would do well to learn to color the glass ones. No manufactories West
or South. A firm in Waterbury write: "We employ twelve women making
daguerreotype mattings, &c. We prefer them, because men work better with
a few women to work with them. We pay by the piece. They earn $3 per
week, ten hours a day. They are paid the same as male labor in the same
business. It requires one month to learn. Activity and common sense are all
that is necessary for a learner. The majority are Americans, and pay for
board $1.75 per week."

480. Feather Dressers.

Page 567

Those that purify the feathers of beds, also renovate the hair and moss of
mattresses. A gentleman told me he thought the business of a feather dresser
too hard for a woman. Carrying bags of feathers, weighing them, assorting
and filling other bags, he considered too heavy. Feathers are cleaned by
steam. Some people, to renovate feathers, place them in the sun for a few
days in summer, and then bake them. There is never any need of renovating
feathers, if they are properly cured at first.

481. Flag Makers.

At A.'s, New York, the young man said it requires about a year to learn the
business thoroughly. The hands employed in the house are paid by the
week, and receive $4. They work from half-past seven to six o'clock, having
an hour at noon. Those working out of the house are paid by the piece. They
do not always have enough of good hands. They do not require the girls to
invent designs, but like to have them quick to understand and execute any
particular device or new pattern. To sew well and rapidly are the principal
qualifications. He thinks about two hundred women are employed in this
way in summer, but not more than fifty in winter. The sewing and
embroidering are confined exclusively to females. The cutting is mostly
done by those who carry on the business, whether men or women. Learners
receive a compensation of $2 per week while learning, after which they
receive from $4 to $6 per week. Some employers require their hands to
spend six months at it as learners; but any one that can sew neatly, and has
taste, could as well make a flag, after it is cut out and basted, as a bedquilt.
The most busy seasons are spring, summer, and fall. When employed by the
week, the hours are ten. The business is pretty well filled. Probably the most
flags are made for vessels, and the next most for military and other
processions. A flag maker told me he employs some girls and women,
paying from thirty-seven to fifty cents a day, of ten hours, to those working
in his rooms. Those that work at home, often earn seventy-five cents, as
they sew in the evening also, and are paid by the piece. He does all his
cutting. He has most work to do in summer and in political campaigns. In
winter, vessels are laid up, and consequently no flags are wanted for them.
Most work is done in seaports. More is probably done in Boston than any

Page 568

other city. In Philadelphia, flag stitching is done by machines. He will not
have it done so, because it will throw women out of employment, and their
pay is small enough at best. He takes those that can sew, and pays from the
first. He complains that most women are mere machines, and display no
intelligence in their work. (Query: Whose fault is it?) Mrs. McF. pays her
girls $3 a week, of nine and a half hours. She employs eight now (January,
1861), but sixteen in summer. In summer she makes flags for vessels, but in
winter she has made national flags. When she wants any intricate pattern
prepared, she employs a regular designer, but cuts the goods herself. Ability
to draw well is a great assistance to a flag maker. She does all her own
cutting, even to the letters that are placed on her flags. Her forewoman
sometimes assists in cutting the figures. She works some for a house in
Mobile that sells flags. It requires taste and ingenuity to succeed, but a good
sewer can soon do the mechanical part. She has been in the business
nineteen years. We suppose there are some openings in the South for this
business.

482. Furniture Painters.

F., who confines his business to the ornamenting of furniture, says it
requires taste and a knowledge of colors. He thinks the Americans excel the
Europeans in applying ornament to works of utility. He has a man of
twenty-five that he employed when a boy in his store. He observed that he
had such talents as would make him a good ornamental painter, so he gave
him instruction. The first year he paid him $4 a week; the next, $6; and now
he earns from $12 to $20. The young man invents when F. has given him an
idea of the style he wishes. A manufacturer of enamelled furniture said no
women are employed in enamelling, to his knowledge; that lifting and
turning the furniture about would be too heavy for women. So it would; but
they might have a man to do that. Another one told us he did not know of
any women employed in enamelling furniture; but with a knowledge of
painting, they might be. Men often earn $20 a week at it. A manufacturer of
chairs told me that he pays ornamenters (men) from $9 to $18 a week, of
ten hours a day. The men sit while painting them. A girl must have a natural
taste for such work to succeed. The coloring requires experience. The

Page 569

French and Germans do most of it. It is piecework. A girl, no doubt, could
get work, if she were competent. The Heywood Chair Company write: "We
employ women to some extent in ornamenting chairs. The work is not
considered especially unhealthy. We pay by the piece, and our women earn
from $5 to $6 per week, averaging ten hours a day, the year round. There is
no difference in the prices between the two sexes. Six months'
apprenticeship is required, at $3 per week. Nimbleness, neatness, taste, and
a true eye are needed in a worker. In ordinary times, there is no difference
in the amount of work. We employ women, because they will do the same
work better, faster, and cheaper than men. We would employ more, if they
could perform other parts of the work. Women are inferior in strength to
men, superior in manual dexterity, neatness, and taste. All are Americans.
We can hardly speak with confidence of any considerable opening for
female labor in our business. Most of our work requires skilled mechanics,
or hard, rough bone and muscle. We have for five or six years employed all
the females we could find room or work for, and can see no chance for any
increase." According to the census of 1860, the number of hands employed
in the New England, Middle, and Western States, in making furniture, were
21,953 males and 1,880 females.

483. Gilders of Mirror Frames.

About the same arrangements are made with apprentices in this as in other
trades. In the old country, women do as much of the work in all its branches
as men; but in this country, the custom of women working in shops with
men is not so common, and consequently some females that learned it in the
old country will not engage in it, because of having to work with the men. I
have been informed that in Dublin there are at least forty women employed
in gilding—some in business for themselves. A good male worker earns $12
a week. Gilders calculate to make twenty cents an hour, the most usual price
for good hands in all trades. In some trades men are paid twenty-five, some
twenty, some eighteen, and in some but fifteen cents an hour. Gilders that
manufacture frames for mirrors and artists, are most likely to have work all
the year. In most shops there is a slack time just after New Year, and after
the Fourth of July. It is a very close, confining business, in summer, while

Page 570

laying the gold leaf on, as it is so light it is apt to fly, and should be done in
a close room. It is not at all unhealthy. Most of the work is done standing;
but, I think, in gilding, women are permitted to sit. A German that sells
ornamental furniture, thinks women might do the gilding on furniture. G.
employs a number of girls in gilding oval frames. They earn, on an average,
from $4 to $4.50. It requires but a short time to learn the business. B. used
to employ some for the same purpose, paying $4, $5, and $6 a week. I think
this work preferable for women to most mechanical employments, and, no
doubt, in a few years many will be so occupied. I was told by a gilder that
women are employed, because they can be had cheaper than men, seldom,
if ever, receiving over $5 a week, of ten hours a day; and they have no
knowledge of the business, except the one department in which they work.
The frames are sold cheaply for photographs. There are no extensive gilders
in the South or West, except one in Cincinnati, and one in Chicago. In the
mirror and picture frame departments, there are now a great many stores
that cut up the business of the large establishments, and the times are hard
—so the business is dull. Not more than forty women in New York city are
employed in gilding frames, and twenty of them are at G.'s. A gilder in New
Hampshire writes: "It depends upon how much painted work there is in the
same room whether the occupation is unhealthy. As far as my observation
goes, women are as good workers at this business as men." One in
Massachusetts writes: "My wife sometimes does my gilding, which is no
harder than sewing. The carver's daughter in Essex, near here, did all his
gilding for ten years." Gilders in Boston write: "We employ a girl to
burnish, and pay from $3 to $5 per week, ten hours a day. Men get from $9
to $12. Fall and spring are the most busy seasons. Most of the cities
northeast of Baltimore are good for this work. Board, $2 to $3."

484. Globe Makers.

H., manufacturer of school apparatus in Connecticut, writes: "From four to
six women are employed by us, in the construction of globes and other
articles. Some are paid by the piece, and some by the week, and earn from
$3 to $5 per week, ten hours a day. Women receive less than one half the
wages of men. They do not perform the same kind of labor. Women are

Page 571

employed at the lighter work, requiring less strength, but an even amount of
skill. The abundance of the supply of labor prevents the increase of wages.
Learners are paid, and it requires but a few weeks to succeed. A nicety of
eye and readiness of hand are necessary for a worker. The prospect of
employment is good, but limited. The winter is best for the work, but hands
are occupied at all seasons. The employment is pleasant, and as well paid as
any in this vicinity. Women are employed in all parts of the work suitable
for them. The work is best adapted to the Eastern States. All our employés
are Americans, and live at home. Board here, $2 a week."

485. Hobby Horse Finishers.

In summer time, Mr. —— has children's carriages trimmed by women.
They are paid by the piece, and earn from $3 to $4 a week. At B.'s they are
employed all the year. The horses and carriages could be painted by women,
and the manes, tails, saddles and bridles could be put on by them. At C.'s,
one lady is employed for trimming children's carriages—$5 a week—ten
hours a day. She sews by machine. C.'s busy season for children's carriages,
is from February to November, and he employs his hands the rest of the
time at hobby horses. He says there is one factory in Columbus, two in
Chicago. He thinks there are good openings (1860) in Richmond and
Petersburg, Va., for they sell many there. He thinks wrong must succumb to
right—that there is no justice in withholding from women their proper
compensation for labor, and the time will come when the prejudice will be
done away that now exists on that subject.

486. Horse Coverings.

I was told, at a store in Philadelphia, they pay twenty-five cents a piece for
ordinary blankets and linens, and a woman can make from three to four a
day. One, on which was considerable chain stitching, the storekeeper paid
$2 for making, and he thought a woman could make one in a day. A saddle
and harness maker, New York, told me the prospect of getting such work is
good. The wives of his workmen make his blankets, and can earn from $1
to $1.50 a day, as he pays thirty-seven cents a blanket. Another one told me

Page 572

his girls earn from $4 to $6 a week at such work; and another rated the
payments still higher, from $1.25 to $1.50 a day. At a large store on
Broadway, I was told all the work is given to one woman, who employs
other women to help her. Her workers can earn $4 a week, if industrious.
They make horse linens and blankets, and rosettes for head ornaments.
Netting for horses is made by hand, in a large establishment near New York.
L. L. & Co. pay for the coarsest blankets twenty cents apiece, and a woman
can make two a day. For some they pay as high as from $4 to $5. A very
swift sewer could make one such in little over two days—consequently her
day's wages would be $2. So the prices vary according to style. The chain
stitch, so much used for ornamenting, is done by hand, because in that way
the edges of the cloth can be more neatly and securely turned under. L. L. &
Co. employ ladies, who in their turn employ others. The coarse heavy
blankets are generally lined, and the work is mostly done by Irish women.
They are most busy on blankets from June to January, and on linen from
February 1st to May 1st. Linen covers are used on horses in stables, as flies
annoy horses much where they are standing quiet. Out of doors, nets
answer, because they are kept in motion by the horse. When busy, L. & L.
employ about one hundred girls. The business is growing. The blankets are
mostly used in the country. The manufacture of them is confined principally
to New York and Boston. Those in the cities are different in style; indeed,
each city has its own style. Many are made in Chicago. The rosettes pay
very well, but it requires a long time to become expert. One lady they
employ earns occasionally $50 a week. Tassels are paid for by the piece,
and girls can earn from $2 to $4. Tassel making requires some time to learn
perfectly. Cloth goods are confined to seasons, and consequently
occupations in which they are involved are confined to seasons. Styles of
trimming are apt to change. A man who makes blankets for a large
wholesale house, employs from one hundred to two hundred women. They
earn from $3 to $7 a week. The stitching is done by machine, but the
ornamental part by hand. Men do all the cutting. He has paid as high as
$100 for one pattern of blankets and ornaments. There are no blankets made
in the South or West, except here and there a saddler's wife will make a few.
In Williamsburg, I saw a number of women in the basement of the
employer's residence. They looked sad, and the rooms were small, damp,
and filthy. The employer told me most of his stitching is done by machine.

Page 573

Anybody that can sew tolerably well, and has strength, can do it. Women
seldom, if ever, cut them out; but I think they could. A manufacturer in
Brooklyn writes: "We employ women for making horse clothing, who are
paid by the piece, and earn from seventy-five cents to $1 per day. Spring
and fall are the best seasons for work. We have no difficulty in procuring
hands."

487. House Painters.

The tools of a painter cost but little. Women might be employed in glazing,
and in painting the inside work of houses. Their ingenuity and taste might
be successfully exercised in embellishing walls and ornamenting doors. The
style for doors, called graining, would be particularly appropriate. The
business could be best carried on by men and women in partnership, as the
outdoor work is most suitable for men. An apprenticeship should be served
of two or three years. The work would pay well. Most of it is done in
spring. A woman would need to make some change in her style of dress.
The Bloomer would probably be best—at any rate, hoops should be laid
aside. The vocation presents a very good opening to women, who could best
engage in it, at first, in towns and villages.

488. Japanners.

Japanning is one of the few arts that had its origin in a heathen country. It is
now practised in all civilized countries. Many metal articles are japanned—
as tea trays, candlesticks, &c. Wood is also japanned. In a late report of one
of the schools of design in England, we observed on the list of female
students the names of two japanners. Care, and ability to stand, are all that
are required for success, to those doing the plain painting; but some taste is
required for ornamental japanning. There is a good prospect for
employment, as the tin trade has been increasing rapidly in the last two
years, and is likely to, as our country grows older, and depends less on other
countries for a supply. California has created quite a demand in the last few
years, and it is supplied mostly from New York. M., in New York, told us he
and his partner employ some women to japan. They pay from $3 to $4 a

Page 574

week. They have one woman to do the ornamental work, painting flowers
and gilding. To ornamental painters they pay from $10 to $15 a week. They
had a man to whom they often paid $15 a week. Most of the men that have
been employed in ornamental japanning have gone to painting clocks,
which pays better. They sometimes find it difficult to get hands—so if some
women could take it up, they would be likely to find employment. The
painters design as they paint, not using a pattern. Japanning of the heavy
kind could not be done by women. The pieces are too heavy to lift. B., an
ornamental japanner, used to employ women to put on the pearl scraps, but
now employs boys, because he can get them cheaper and take them as
apprentices. He can send them on errands and make use of them in that
way. He pays an apprentice $1.50 a week for one year, then increases at the
rate of fifty cents a week the next year, and so on. B. thinks no women are
employed at it. Women are employed at such work in Paris. Japanning, he
thinks, is not unhealthy, although the ovens into which japanners must pass
are often heated to 260°. The spirits of tar used in japanning renders it
healthy, and consumptives go frequently into japanning furnaces, feeling
that they are benefited by it. At a firm of japanners, the boy told me they
employ an artist to come and paint for them. They once had a lady that
painted landscapes and flowers on piano boards in oils. They were not
baked in a furnace afterward, but the oil permitted to dry, as with a painting
on canvas. S. used to employ women in making pearl piecework, but it is
not much used now. For painting clocks, not more than six cents a piece is
paid for many. Men are so rapid that they can make money, but women
could not earn more than $2.50 a week. Some men earn $25 a week, and
formerly even $35, at painting the finer clocks; but there are now so many
in the business that wages have fallen, though the business is increasing. At
a tin manufactory in Williamsburg, I saw two girls employed in tying up
goods, and seven girls employed in putting the first coat of paint on tin ware
—grounding, it is called. They are paid from $1.25 up. One woman they
have earns $6 a week. She is an English woman, and has been at the
business nearly all her life. She is quick and skilful. A boy who paints
flowers on tin ware, after the first coat is put on by the girls, gets $1 a day
for his work. Japanning is done in England by women. Many women are
employed through the country, in the Eastern States, in making tin canisters,
&c., and some in japanning; but japanners carry their work into ovens,

Page 575

which he thought would be too hard for women. Yet he thinks doing so is
not unhealthy. If the employment is unhealthy, it arises from the
evaporation of the turpentine in the paint. The unhealthiness of the common
painter's business arises from the turpentine, in evaporating, carrying off
with it white lead, but no white lead is employed on the tin ware. Girls are
paid by the week. Men, for graining, a style resembling the graining of
wood, and in fact being the same except on a different material, received
$2.50 per day. Male labor is twice or three times as high in their
establishment. Why women are not better paid the man could not answer,
but, like many other men with whom I have talked, thought it unjust they
were not paid at the same rate as men. Their girls are employed all the year.
They work ten hours a day. They were mostly Americans, and miserably
dressed. The work soils their clothes greatly. They wore old skirts over their
dresses to work in. I think some men and boys work in the same room with
them. The fine work could be well done by them, if they would take time to
learn it efficiently, for it requires taste, ingenuity, and delicacy of touch. At
an ornamental japanner's, I was told it requires three or four years to learn
the business well. A good workman earns from $12 to $18 a week. It is
piecework.

489. Knitters.

The knitting done by machinery is not so soft, so warm, or so durable as
that done by hand. It is almost impossible to obtain ladies' hand-knit hose in
cities. Gentlemen's are sometimes made by the Shakers, and bring a very
high price. We have no doubt but some old ladies might even now find it
profitable to knit to order, or supply some store where their goods would be
brought forward and disposed of to those who can appreciate the difference
between machine and hand knitting. The Germans are famous knitters. "The
peasant women of the Channel Islands, Jersey, Guernsey, &c., knit a great
deal. They are seldom, if ever, without the materials for this occupation. On
the way to and from market, and at other times, knitting forms their almost
constant employment." A knitting machine has been invented in Seneca,
N. Y., that is said to knit a perfect stocking in less than five minutes. Aiken's
knitting machines are very popular. We have thought ladies would do well

Page 576

to try them, and devote themselves to making up hosiery. We doubt not but
it would pay very well. The cloth is knit in a straight piece, and another lady
cuts it into shape and sews into the articles wanted. A machine has been
invented by Mr. Aiken, also, for toeing and heeling socks. A manufacturer
of knit goods writes: "We employ about twenty hands, one half of whom
are girls. Their wages are from $3 to $5 per week, except when working by
the piece. Those who run the knitting machines are paid by the piece, and
earn from 75 cents to $1 per day. Males receive from $1 to $1.75 per day.
The work done by them is generally harder, and such as females could not
well do. To effectually superintend the knitting business would require at
least five years. The part performed by females can be learned in six
months. They are paid while learning, from $2.75 to $3 per week. The
business is overdone at present; although there is always a demand in our
section of country for girls. They work regularly throughout the year,
twelve hours in summer, ten in winter. It would be better for all parties to
run their mills only ten hours per day, and thus tend to keep down the
production, and so keep up the prices to a fair profit. Those tending sewing
machines are generally married, or widows with children, and in general
support their families. Their machines are repaired by a foreman, but with a
little practice they can learn to do it themselves. In other branches generally
pursued by girls, they earn sufficient to dress well, but seldom accumulate.
A location is preferred in some thickly settled place, on account of getting
sewing done by hand, as all the goods are finished off by hand. After
working twelve hours a day, they will be necessarily rather too much
fatigued to go through any mental processes otherwise than reading a novel.
If all the mills of all descriptions would work ten hours only, and establish
evening schools, and request all to attend, it would greatly elevate them in
the social scale. But selfishness rules, and where one manufacturer would
agree to this arrangement, two would not. Board, $1.50 per week, including
washing." A hose manufacturer in Holderness writes: "We employ about
sixty females in the mill. Work is given out to three hundred. Almost all are
American. Their wages are from $3 to $6 per week. The wages in the
knitting department are not much less for women than men. Women learn
the knitting so as to earn good pay in three months. Women are paid $2 per
week for the first four weeks; after that, by the piece. A learner should be
steady and quick with her fingers. The employment is healthy, as the

Page 577

knitters sit only about half the time. We run all the year eleven hours a day.
There is not female help enough. We are trying women where men have
been employed. I think women are in some respects superior workers to
men." Manufacturers of seamless hosiery, in Connecticut, write they "pay
from $3 to $5 per week, eleven hours a day—that it requires from six to
eight weeks to learn—that their hands have access to libraries; and board is
for men $3, for women $2." At Cohoes, N. Y., is a manufactory of shirts,
drawers, &c. I have a letter from the company saying: "We employ two
hundred and fifty women, and pay from 40 cents to $1 per day. Some are
paid by the piece, and some by the week. Men receive from 75 cents to
$2.50 per day, of twelve hours. The reason why they obtain better wages is
that they do work which women cannot do. (Query: Do not the women
perform work that men cannot do?) Men are continually learning. Women
can learn to perform certain work in a few days. The best qualifications are
soundness of mind and body, activity, steadiness, quick perception, and a
desire to make money. The business is increasing yearly. Occasionally, in
the winter, the mills stop for a month. There is at present (October, 1860) a
surplus of labor. Board, $1.75 to $2." At L.'s knitting factory, in Brooklyn,
the foreman told me there are six machines in operation, each of which cost
between $5,000 and $6,000. The articles made by them are softer than any
knitting done by machine I have seen; but it may be owing to the quality of
the wool: I cannot say. Those working at machines stand, the others sit. The
machine operators receive from $1.50 to $3.50: those in the finishing room
are paid by the piece, and earn from $2 to $5. A foreman superintends the
work and puts the machinery in order. A woman of good abilities can learn
in three months, if the factory is in a position to put her forward. From May
to December is the best time for work. Double price is paid the hands for
night work in busy times. They prefer American girls, because they are
neater. A manufacturer of factory supplies, in Massachusetts, writes: "We
employ thirty women in knitting loom harnesses. The work is not more
unhealthy than any employment that requires one to sit all the time. They
are paid by the piece. The employment is sure so long as cotton
manufacturing is good. The work is equally good all seasons. Board, $1.62
to $2.25 per week." The secretary of the Waterbury Knitting Company
writes: "We employ one hundred hands, at from 50 cents to $1 per day,
working twelve hours in summer, ten in winter. Women are paid as well or

Page 578

better than men of the same age; working by the piece, they are paid the
same. The women are not thrown out of work at any season. Women are
inferior in mechanical genius. We are obliged to keep a man to every fifteen
women to overlook them. A woman will run a knitting machine for seven
years, and never be able to straighten a needle, or knit the cloth slack or
tight. A boy or man will learn to oversee a whole room in half that time.
Women cannot be made to think or act for themselves in the least thing, or
in any case to rely on their own judgment. This is equally true of the stupid
Irish, German, and English, and of the more acute Yankee. Women are
superior perhaps in good looks." S., of Enfield, N. H., has his daughter
write: "I use three of Aikens's knitting machines, and other machinery for
making yarn. The wool is first made into yarn and then knit into webbing,
and marked for heeling and toeing. It is then divided into dozens, and
distributed around the country to be heeled and toed, in which branch we
employ usually five hundred American women. We pay $1 a dozen for
heeling and toeing; for tending the machine, $2 per week, of eleven hours a
day. Women are paid less, because they are not usually as strong as men,
and therefore cannot do the same work, or, if the same kind, not so great an
amount in a limited time. Men can be employed by paying them what they
require, and as they are considered, or rather seem to consider themselves
the 'lords of creation,' they demand higher wages than women. In four
weeks the females can perform their part without trouble. Learners receive
their board. The prospect is good for the same number employed as at
present. The summer season is the best for work. If at any time there is a
want of work, it is in January and February."

490. Lace Bleachers.

Mrs. L. spent five years learning the business in Paris. A girl that spent two
years learning with her, is now doing well in the business in St. Louis. She
prefers to take learners a week on trial. She charges from $1 to $1.50 a pair
for curtains. The French are the most successful in that line. She often has
thirty or more pair from a hotel and other large houses. One can make a
good living at it. L. says the work is unhealthy, particularly while the vapor
of the chemicals is warm. The curtains are not wrung out, but the water

Page 579

pressed out with the hands. The dirt, of course, is first washed out. It
requires strength to handle the goods. Curtains are put on frames to dry, and
women, he says, are not strong enough. It requires strength to get the extra
starch out, as it is done by squeezing. It is surprising how many objections,
as regards health and physical strength required, can be presented by selfish
men, who do not wish women to engage in their occupations. None but
those who have had occasion to test the matter would believe it possible
that the majority of men are so selfish and unjust in this respect. Another
man told me he does all the washing and drying himself, because he is
responsible for the goods, and is not willing to trust them to strangers. He
charges $1 a pair, except for a very large size. Different kinds of laces
require different methods of washing and ironing.

491. Lacquerers.

Lacquering is warm work, and in summer is done in rooms the temperature
of which is over 200°. M. thought women could be employed in burnishing,
lacquering, polishing, and bronzing. Girls were at one time employed in
lacquering gas fixtures on William street, New York; but they were
dismissed, because they did not prove steady and efficient workers. The
process previous to lacquering, called dipping, is dirty work. It requires but
a short time to learn to lacquer. F. told me that in France women do all the
fine lacquering, and they do it much better than men can. They take it home
with them to do; and the same plan could be followed in this country, and
probably will be before long. The finest lacquering, such as ormolu clocks,
&c., is done with gold dust. The varnish must be put on evenly. It requires
care and delicacy of touch. Most of the gas fixtures sold as brass are merely
zinc gilded, and then lacquered—the bronzed part the same metal, bronzed.
Zinc can be bought at six cents a pound—brass is thirty cents a pound.
Mathematical instruments, daguerreotype cases, and gas fixtures are
lacquered. A man earns from $8 to $10 a week, working ten hours a day.
Lacquering, I was told, is not unhealthy, and a person can sit two or three
feet from the fire while at work. A firm in New York, manufacturing gas
fixtures, wrote to us as follows: "Lacquering is a suitable occupation for
women; but we do not employ them, because men are considered more

Page 580

reliable as to regularity of hours, and are more easily managed. Women can
be made equally good lacquerers with the men; but when employed by us,
some years since, we found, with few exceptions, that they produced
inferior work, owing, as we think, to want of application. Women are
employed in similar establishments to ours in England and, we learn, in
Boston. The employment is not unhealthy. They are paid by the week in
England. It requires from three to five years to learn the business. Steady
application and a good eye for colors will make a good lacquerer."

492. Life Preservers.

R. employs two women to stitch his life preservers with a sewing machine,
and pays the usual price of operatives. None are made South or West.
(Would not New Orleans offer an opening?)

493. Lucifer Matches.

This is a business that has been largely entered into in New York. The
making and selling of matches have furnished employment for hundreds
and thousands of boys and girls in all our large cities. The making of
matches is a dangerous employment. Its unhealthy tendency (owing to the
use of sulphur), and the long period of twelve, and even fourteen hours'
confinement, no doubt serve to account for the sad and woe-begone faces of
the poor little operators. At a match factory where I stopped, girls are paid
three cents a gross for cutting matches and filling boxes. Some can do as
many as forty gross a day; but very few can. It is best for girls to commence
early in life, and most do so. Some girls earn as much as $5 to $6 per week,
if we may believe the proprietor's statement. Girls are paid for filling the
frames in which they are to be dipped, sixty-two cents 100 frames, each
frame containing 1,500 double, or 3,000 single matches. The factory is open
from seven in the morning to ten at night. The business for women and girls
is not crowded. Most learners become discouraged and leave it, because it
is so long before they can become expert enough to earn fair wages. It is not
as healthy, he says, as some occupations. I should think not, judging from
his sallow face, and the pale, spiritless faces of all I have seen in the match

Page 581

factories. He buys bundles of sticks, ready to cut for matches, of those who
make it a business to prepare them. They are cut by hand. He pays twenty-
five cents a bunch, and a man can cut a bunch in five minutes. They never
stop work, except in December and January. A brisk hand can earn from $5
to $7 a week. They make from twenty to forty different kinds of matches, to
suit all climates. At the store of this manufacturer, the bookkeeper told me
that, if a person has a tooth extracted, the phosphorus will be absorbed by
the jaw bone and cause it to decay, if the individual works in the factory
before the gum is entirely well. A lady told me she knows a girl that earns
$6 a week in a match factory. In H.'s factory, I saw small girls and boys
putting matches in the frames to be dipped. They are paid sixty cents 100
frames, containing 1,500 double matches. They can seldom fill more than
85 frames a day. They commence work at 6½ in winter, and work until 8; in
summer, they commence at 6, and work until 7½. They are not obliged to
work all the time, as they are paid by the piece; but with the exception of an
hour at noon, which all have the privilege of taking, they no doubt work the
full time. They were poor, dirty-looking children. In the room where the
boxes were filled, large girls worked. Most match makers are Germans and
Irish. A manufacturer told me that he now employs boys only—that girls he
found so wild he could not manage them. He says some of his girls used to
earn $5 a week. He thinks none but strong, healthy persons should work at
the business, as the fumes of sulphur are injurious. A manufacturer in
Vermont writes: "Women are employed to pack matches. They are paid by
the thousand, and their wages amount to fifty cents per day, of ten hours,
after they get accustomed to it. Women's work in this department is lighter
than men's—so will not yield as good wages. A learner will gain the trade in
about six months. An increase of this business is not flattering. No
difference in the seasons for work. Women are more nimble in the use of
their fingers, and consequently succeed better in this kind of work."

494. Mat Makers.

Door mats are made of sea grass, corn husks, worsted, manilla, hemp, and
cocoa-nut fibre. At the largest manufactory in the United States, I saw the
process of making several kinds. No girls or women were employed. The

Page 582

superintendent told us it was too heavy work for women. In one
establishment in Philadelphia, girls are employed as tenders, which is
merely picking the substance to be woven—jute, hemp, or wool—into
bunches of the right thickness, and handing to the weaver. Some of their
mat weavers earn $14 a week—boys, from $1.50 to $3. Mats are sometimes
made by women of osier, rushes, and straw.

495. Manufacturers of Musical Instruments.

The manufacture of different musical instruments is engaged in as so many
distinct branches of business. Musical instruments are usually classed as
follows: 1. Wind instruments, of wood or metal. 2. Stringed instruments. 3.
Keyed instruments. 4. Instruments of percussion. 5. Automatic instruments.
6. Miscellaneous articles in connection with musical instruments. On wind
instruments made of wood and ornamented with metals, as flutes,
clarionets, &c., women might be employed to polish the metal. Those that
are all metal, as horns, trumpets, &c., are polished in making, and could not
well be divided into a separate branch of work. Of stringed instruments, the
ornamental part, as painting, inlaying of pearl, &c., would be very pretty
work for women of taste. The smaller strings could be covered by women.
Of keyed instruments, some of the smaller and finer work would be very
suitable for women. In instruments of percussion, the drum and tambourine
are probably the only instruments presenting a field for woman's work. Of
automatic instruments, mechanical organs are the only ones, I think, at
which women do work. I cannot learn that women are employed in making
musical boxes, which are imported from Switzerland, Germany, and France.
Women are employed to some extent, in other countries, in the manufacture
of musical instruments. Z. thinks the reason women are not employed in the
manufacture of musical instruments in this country is, that they do not
understand the business.—1. Wind Instruments. Women might polish the
metal on flutes, and even paint the woodwork. I was told by a manufacturer
in New York, whose factory is in Connecticut, that he once employed
women in that way, but they did not succeed, because they did not try.—2.
Stringed Instruments. I called on L., engaged in the manufacture of harps.
There are but two harp manufacturers in the United States. Ladies might do

Page 583

the gilding and ornamental painting on harps. Sizing is put on, and then
gold leaf laid on, and smoothed down with a small brush. The varnishing
could be very well done by women. The same kind of work is executed on
guitar frames, of which a number are made in the United States. The
painting is done as on enamelled furniture. L. employs an Englishman to do
the gilding and ornamental painting. The other manufacturer, B., thinks
there is no part of the work in making harps that could be done by a lady.
The ornamental part is done by the varnisher, and varnishing requires much
strength. It requires a regular apprenticeship, and some artistic taste. So few
harps are made in this country, that it would not pay a woman to learn. He
was evidently opposed to women having anything to do with the business.
—3. Keyed Instruments. Accordions. In making accordions women could
put on the keys and kid, and do so in Germany. Accordions are nearly all
imported, because they can be made more cheaply in Europe than in this
country. L., Philadelphia, says he is in partnership with his brother in
Germany, who has musical instruments made there, and employs a number
of women and girls.—Melodeons. C., New York, manufacturer, says he
does not know of any women being employed in the making of melodeons;
but much of the work, I am sure, could be done by women. Cutting the
keys, polishing, gluing them on the board, and fastening the hammers on,
are done by hand, and the work is as suitable for women as men. Men
receive for such work, $2 a day. Women properly trained, and with a good
ear for music could also tune the instruments. Men who do so, earn about
$3 a day. A manufacturer of melodeons writes: "We do not employ women,
but think larger firms might."—Organs. I was told by a manufacturer that in
Germany some women assist their husbands in making the action, but there
is lighter work and more of it in piano actions. J., another organ builder,
told me that in England, in some organ factories, women are employed to
gild the pipes. In making the organs turned by a crank, used in some
churches in England, women, he said, are employed in putting the pins in
the cylinders. They are made on the same principle as the music box. J.
seldom makes more than one of these organs in a year, and I think he is the
only one in the United States that does make them. Mrs. Dall says "there are
women, who strain silk in fluting, across the old-fashioned workbag, or
parlor organ front."

Page 584

Pianos. In England, the men engaged in making piano actions used to do
much of the work at home, and their wives and daughters would assist
them. In the United States, each branch in the making of pianos is now done
separately, except in very large establishments, and consequently most of
the work is done at home by the workmen. At a factory in New York, an
apprentice, nearly out of his time, told me that an individual to learn the
business is bound, and must remain until of age. Otherwise he could not get
a certificate, and is not likely to find employment without one. An
apprentice receives $3 a week the first year, $4 the second year, and more
afterward if he is bright and quick to learn. A journeyman receives from $10
to $12 a week for his work. At W.'s piano manufactory, New York, we were
kindly permitted to pass through and see the entire process of making.
Among other parts that I thought could be done by women, were those of
varnishing and polishing. This work forms a separate branch of itself, and
requires an apprenticeship of three or four years. It looked to be very
simple. The pianos are first rubbed with pumice stone, to render them
smooth and susceptible of a polish, then with rotten stone. Rubbing with
pumice stone all day might be too laborious, except for a very strong
woman; but the other process is feasible for any woman of moderate health.
Indeed, the finest polish could be better given by women than men, because
it is done by the naked hand, and the softer the hand the better. The
ornamenting of the sounding boards could be done by women that know
anything of painting, and also the gilding on the inside top and outside
front. I asked an old Frenchman, doing that kind of work, how long it would
require to learn. He said he had been at it fifty years, and had not learned it
perfectly yet. It is pretty work, and very suitable for a woman of taste. The
delicacy of woman's touch, with some knowledge of drawing and painting,
would enable her to succeed. Covering wire, and putting it in, is another
branch that might be done by women. Bleaching ivory for the keys, cutting
them, and gluing them on, are also within woman's range. Cutting leather
and buckskin, and gluing it on the hammers, are very light and simple work.
Another branch suitable for women is regulating the tone of pianos. Men,
said W., would oppose women working at the piano business in large
establishments, but a man would not be likely to suffer inconvenience from
employing women in his own house to do the part he carries on. If he were
independent of his business it would be better. At ——'s, New York, a

Page 585

manufacturer of pianoforte actions, I saw two girls at work. It is very nice,
clean work. Part of the time they stand, and the remainder they sit. One is
paid $3 a week, and the other less. The young man who showed us through
the factory, said much of the work in making pianoforte action that is now
done by men could be done by women. D——'s girls looked to be
Americans. They have work all the year. It mostly consists in covering
hammers. A manufacturer of pianofortes writes: "Our men are paid both by
the piece and by the week, according to the departments in which they are
engaged. The time of learning is from five to seven years for men.
Apprentices (boys) are paid from 25 cents to $1 per day, beginning with the
first amount, and increasing from year to year. In some departments,
physical strength is required, in others, aptness and ready tact—in others, a
cultivated musical ear. The prospect for future employment is very fine in
all branches for men—in some, equally good for women. The majority of
workmen are below mediocrity, as compared with most all others in
manufacturing." A manufacturer in Meredith, N. H., writes: "We once
employed a lady in our key and action department. She was the wife of one
of our workmen. She earned as much as her husband, and in every respect
did her work as well. She learned her trade in half the time it took her
husband to learn the same. Theirs was jobwork; the two earned about $3 per
day. She did her housework besides. I think there might be many ladies
employed in our business, to the advantage of all concerned. We expect to
test the matter further by employing some in our varnish rooms soon."
Seraphines. A manufacturer writes: "I think women might be employed
to advantage in some parts of the work, and in any part of it, if they could
adopt a different style of dress, something like the Bloomer. The long dress
with hoops, as now worn, must be an insurmountable barrier against their
entering many employments. It is injurious to health, and prevents a proper
development of form."

496. Musical String Makers.

The manufacture of strings for musical instruments is carried on as a
separate branch. A German violin maker told me that women are employed

Page 586

in Germany in winding wire for guitar strings. I find they are also in a
factory in Connecticut, and the manufacturer said they could earn as high as
$9 a week. It is rather severe on the fingers, but that can be avoided to some
extent by wearing a glove finger. In New York, it is mostly done by
Germans and French, who have taken the trade from Americans. The
preparing of catgut from the intestines of sheep and goats, and making it
into strings, is carried on mostly in Germany, and some women are
employed at that. Most metal strings are of steel, and covered with fine wire
of other metals. Mrs. Z., whose husband, when living, manufactured
covered strings for musical instruments, told me, she and her daughters had
often assisted in covering guitar strings and the lighter piano strings. She
thinks a person of good abilities could learn it in from two to four weeks,
with an attentive instructor. She usually rested against a bench while
employed. A good worker will earn from $3 to $5 per week. She has never
heard of any but English and German women being engaged in it. In some
of the up town shops the machinery is moved by steam, but it does not
answer so well, because it is not so easily slackened or checked. Harp
strings and the larger piano strings cannot be made by women, because of
the strength and firmness required.

497. Netters.

Netting is now generally done by machinery. Seines are mostly made in that
way. When by hand, it is done by old people, who receive a very inadequate
compensation for their labor. The nets so much used for horses are mostly
made in a large factory near the city of New York. In England, woollen
netting is used by some gardeners for the protection of the bloom of fruit
trees from frost. They are also used to prevent birds destroying currants,
cherries, raspberries, and other small fruit. The making of purses of
different kinds, and of hammocks, have employed a small number of
people. Net and seine manufacturers in Gloucester write me: "We employ
one hundred women who work at their homes, and are paid by the piece. It
requires a year to learn. From October to June are the best seasons for our
trade. A few that we employ to work by the week spend ten hours a day at
it. The comfort of the occupation is good, but the pay poor. We think

Page 587

women better company than men. Health and strength are the best
qualifications for our work." A net and twine company in Boston write: "We
employ women for converting twine into netting. It is mostly job work, and
they have cash for what they earn. The comparative prices of men and
women are the same as those of factories in general. It requires about as
long to learn as it takes a woman to learn to knit stockings. The business is
good as long as the sea furnishes fish and mankind eat them. The
employment of women in the work is a providential necessity. Nearly all
ours are American. Women are quicker in their work—men stronger. Our
women have the leisure that belongs to nearly all manual occupations."

498. Oakum Pickers.

Perhaps some one reading this book may not know what oakum is. It is old
rope, pulled to pieces until it is soft and pliable, like the original material,
and used for the purpose of corking vessels. Ten years ago, the picking was
done by hand, and many women employed. Now, this work is mostly done
by machinery in this country, and very few women are employed. In some
factories, women are employed in teazing, that is, untwisting the pieces of
rope that are not pulled to pieces by passing through the machinery the first
time. They are paid so much per hundred pounds, and do not earn more than
$2 a week. It is dirty, disagreeable work. A firm in Maine write: "We have
seen females, both young and old, at work in oakum mills in the State of
New Jersey. In England (we believe) all oakum is made in their almshouses,
consequently a part by females. The business is healthy. We use many boys
that do work which might be done by females; but we prefer the boys."

499. Paper Hangers.

An English lady, who has spent much time in various parts of Europe, told
me she had known of women being engaged in paper hanging in small
towns. I believe it is customary, when papering a room, to have one person
put the paste on, and another put it up. We are confident women could do
the first-mentioned part of the work.

Page 588

500. Polishers.

Women are employed in France in polishing furniture. They are mostly the
wives of cabinet makers. It requires art to do it that some can never learn. A
person must be able to put the gum shellac on evenly. A woman in London
earned a very good living by applying French polish to the furniture of
cabinet makers. A French woman that polished furniture in Paris, told me
that the work is hard on the fingers, and one could not learn it in less than a
year. A piano manufacturer told me that women could be profitably
employed in polishing pianos. It is better learned by women than men, he
thought. It is tedious, however, and requires patience. I have been told that
the finest polish is imparted to furniture by the naked hand, and the softer
and finer the hand the better. For that reason, women are employed in
France to polish piano cases with the palms of their hands, and, when not
employed, wear kid gloves to keep their hands soft and smooth.

501. Pure Finders.

The finders of dog pure constitute a small class in this country; but Mr.
Mayhew thinks in the city of London there are between two hundred and
three hundred constantly employed. It is used for dressing leather and kid,
and sold at from sixteen to twenty cents a bucketful. In our country, it is
probably carried on with bone grubbing and rag gathering.

502. Rag Cutters.

I find nearly all rag cutters are Irish, and they are mostly old women or
young girls. The girls usually earn about 75 cents or $1 a week. I called at a
rag dealer's, and was told by a woman that one cent a pound is paid for
cutting the seams off, taking the linings out, and removing the buttons. A
woman can earn, she says, from $2 to $2.50 a week. It is not unhealthy.
They grow fat on it. Theirs are mostly old women, and all are Irish. For
assorting they are paid by the week, and receive $2.75. They work from
seven to five in winter; in summer, ten hours. The keeper of the wareroom
sells his rags for making paper, and sends many to Europe. The women

Page 589

work all the year. No other kind of work could be done by women in that
business, as the only other is packing in bales, and that, of course, must be
done by men. The warerooms close at six; so the women have the evenings
for themselves. P., a rag dealer, says he buys and sells according to the
quality of the rags. It is customary to pay by the week for sorting rags.
Some get $2, and some $2.50. Cutting the seams off is paid for by the
pound. The odor was extremely offensive (it was a damp day); but the man
said it was not unhealthy, unless the rags are worked with in a close room;
then the dust is apt to affect the eyes. Occasionally the small pox is taken
from rags. I called at a rag dealer's, and was told by a filthy, squalid,
barefooted girl at work, that for cutting up rags a penny a pound is paid. She
was assorting. For that work, hands are paid twenty-five cents a day, and
their board. It is very dirty work. The dust and sand must affect the eyes and
lungs. Some men can cut as many as thirty-five pounds a day. Men are paid
twice as much as women for assorting. I inquired why. I was told by a
young junk dealer, standing by, that they could pick twice as much in the
same time, the truth of which the reader can decide as well as I. Some men
earn at it, he said, $6 a week. A woman, who seemed to have some interest
in the place, remarked the girls have work all the year. Called at the door of
a large wareroom, where I saw men assorting waste paper to be sold for the
purpose of being made into new paper.

503. Rag Gatherers.

The chiffoniers or rag gatherers of Paris are said to number about 6,000;
those of London about 800 or 1,000. The chiffonier in Paris can collect only
from eight in the evening until early next morning, as the streets are all
swept before six o'clock in the morning, as after that time until eight in the
evening the citizens are passing. A few in Paris have realized fortunes; but
we suspect the most, in all countries, barely gain a subsistence. They all
lead a hard and gloomy life. In the United States, most of the rags collected
are converted into paper. Some are sold at shoddy manufactories, and those
unfit for either shoddy or paper are spread over corn land, or used as a
fertilizer for hops. One of the most handsome buildings on Broadway is
said to be owned by a man that commenced life in the petty business of a

Page 590

rag collector. So much for economy and industry! Most of the rag pickers in
New York live in the Five Points, and near the Central Park. Scarcely any
person that has seen the old women rag pickers of New York in rain and
snow, cold and driving winds, partially clad, can ever deny that a woman is
capable of very hard and degrading labor, when driven to it by want. Rag
picking and rag assorting are distinct branches. Rag pickers make the most,
and are chiefly Germans. The number of rag gatherers in New York is very
great, and the majority of them are women. I never observe the face of an
American or French woman. Rag gatherers have each their own province,
and none of the rest dare intrude. The majority do not confine themselves to
picking up rags only, but bones and bits of metal and glass. Some even
carry a basket in which they gather waste vegetables or putrid meat, or the
trimmings of uncooked meat, which they feed on themselves, or give to a
pet pig, or trade with some neighbor better off that has a cow. When the rag
collectors reach their homes, they assort the articles they have collected.
They separate the rags into clean and dirty (the last they wash), into linen
and woollen, and the paper into clean and dirty, white and colored. The life
led by rag gatherers is very laborious, as they must spend all the hours of
daylight on their feet, walking many miles. Their earnings are so scanty that
they must be out in all kinds of weather. The enormous rent they pay for
wretched accommodations is a disgrace to the landlords. Many of them
sleep a dozen in a room, on the bare floor. By the most rigid economy and
unremitting industry, a few are enabled to lay by a small sum for old age, or
purchase a little cottage and a plot of ground, when they change their filthy
occupation for a more healthy and agreeable one, that of raising vegetables
for the market. If I had to make a living on the streets of New York, I would
prefer carrying a wheel around to grind knives and scissors, or putting
window-glass in, to collecting rags, for the work of neither is so filthy. The
children of rag gatherers begin very early to follow the pursuit of their
parents. I saw some children one day picking rags, that told me they
received two cents a pound. They were at the dirt heaps where carts of dirt
from town had been emptied. They sometimes gather forty pounds each a
day. They cannot do so well in winter. I saw a rag collector who starts at
five in the morning, and is gathering rags until eight in the evening. She
eats nothing during the time. She was German. Her father and mother also
gather rags. Her father sells them at two cents a pound. She did not know

Page 591

how many pounds she gathered, but said she got three large bags full every
day in good weather. I saw other collectors, who told me they gather each
from ten to thirty pounds a day. Some families succeed in gathering from
fifty cents to $1.50 worth a day, in good weather and good seasons. "The
prices paid for the staple articles of their trade, purchased exclusively by
middlemen, are: bones, 36 cents per bushel; rags, whether linen or woollen,
$1 per cwt.; paper, $1 per cwt.; and these sell them again to the down-town
customers, the rags at $2.50 to $3.50; the paper at $1.25 to $1.50; with a
proportionate advance on bones, and all the articles in the junk business."

504. Rope and Twine Makers.

Ropes are made of the fibres of various plants, and particular kinds of
grasses, and the fibres of the cocoanut cover. Hair from the manes and tails
of horses is also used. Hemp and flax are most common in the United
States. The simplest mode of making rope is under long sheds. After the
material is spun into yarn, it is doubled or trebled, and twisted. Ropes for
the rigging of vessels employ a large number of men. The great variety and
amount of cordage used make it an extensive trade. Ropes are now
manufactured in some places by steam. A small number of women are
employed in rope making. S. & M., Philadelphia, employ about fifty female
hands. Some are engaged in spinning, and a dexterous woman will keep
from forty to fifty spindles in constant motion, some at carding, some at
balling. The last-named operation is the only one in which the women can
sit while at work. They work ten hours, and earn from $1.50 (for young
girls), to $5 a week (for the experienced frame spinners). The last
mentioned are mostly English, Scotch, or Irish women, who have followed
the trade from childhood. It requires long practice to command the highest
wages. A good steady hand is much valued, and is not liable to be thrown
out of work. Water power is used with the machinery. W., New York,
employs them in his manufactory for spooling only. A manufacturer on
Long Island writes: "I pay my hands $1 a week, for the first four weeks;
then $1.50 a week, for the next four weeks; and for the four weeks
following, $2 per week; and so increase their wages till I allow them $3.50
per week. I employ mostly boys and girls. I pay them the same, regardless

Page 592

of sex. They work from ten to twelve hours, and are employed all the year.
Board, $1.25 to $1.50 per week. At eighteen, my boys learn a trade. I pay
my hands well and use them well. I do not receive children under twelve
years of age. I encourage them in going to school before and after they
work in my factory." There are only two factories of this kind in New York
city that employ women. The proprietor of the largest gave me the
following items: "I employ thirteen girls and women (mostly Irish) in
spooling, twisting, &c. Most are paid by the week. Women receive $3.50;
girls, from $1.15 to $3.50. The time of learning is one, two, or three weeks,
according to the kind of work, and the ability of the girl. The prospect is
poor for more learners. My girls work ten hours a day, and have
employment the year round. There are enough of hands in New York. Some
of the minor parts could be performed by women, that are not, but not
enough to give many employment. Cities are the best for selling the article,
country the best for making. Men do not perform the same kind of work
women do. Women are best suited to their branches. Boys could be got to
do the work of the girls for as low wages. Indeed, most boys work for less
in New York than girls." We think the last assertion a mistake on the part of
H. The agent of the Royal River Yarn and Twine Company writes: "We
consider our employment healthy. It proves so. Take, for instance, a certain
number, at random, of different ages, employed in cotton mills, and
compare with the same number, taken in the same way, from farm
neighborhoods, and you will find more sickness and death among farmers'
daughters." (This is rather a startling statement, but we are not prepared to
disprove it.) He adds: "The regularity in exercise, taking meals, and resting,
accounts, I think, for the steady employment in cotton mills, and the like,
being so conducive to health. I have been engaged as a machinist, &c.,
about a cotton mill, for thirty-five years; and, according to my observation,
more girls improve their health, taking ordinary care of themselves, than
otherwise. Part of our hands are paid by the week, and part by the piece.
They have from $2 to $4.50 per week, new hands having only $2. It takes
from three months to two years to learn. Common sense and industrious
habits are the only qualifications needed. Spring and summer are the best
seasons, but work is furnished continuously the year round. Our girls go
home now and then to spend a few weeks, visit, fix their clothing, &c. To
shorten their time would be rather a disadvantage, as capital invested must

Page 593

pay, or no encouragement would be given to invest more. Demand for
hands is steady; and if a surplus, it is on the neatest and lightest kind of
work. Women are neater, steadier, and more active than men. Our girls
make the best of housewives. Overseers, agents, and business men marry
them, and we may look around and see, in some that have worked in mills,
the brightest and best mothers of the land. The faculties of the mind are
quickened by the busy hum and movement of machinery. Board, $1.50,
respectable and comfortable. Parties not regarding that, would not have
respectable help."

505. Sail and Awning Makers.

I think it would require considerable strength and long practice to make
sails, but not more than some occupations in which women are engaged. L.
sometimes employs women to run the binding on awnings, paying 2 and 2½
cents a yard. He thinks no women are employed in the United States in
making sails. They worked at tents during the Mexican war, but now only
men are employed. S. knows that, in France, women make the lightest kind
of sails. In Russia, sails are made by women. A sail maker in a large
maritime city writes: "Some women are employed in sail making in
Massachusetts. It is a healthy trade, and men spend three years learning it.
A sail maker needs a tough constitution and steady habits. Some parts of the
work are suitable for women. The best locations are on the lakes or in
seaport towns." An awning manufacturer told me he employs girls in
summer, and pays from $4 to $5 a week, of ten hours a day. They work by
hand, and bind and put on fringe. T. employs some girls for binding. They
can earn from $3 to $4 a week when constantly employed. He usually pays
by the week, and has it done in his shop. A sail maker in Connecticut writes:
"Women are employed at sail making in France. A knowledge of arithmetic
and draughting are essential. The work is done at all seasons. The
occupation is filled. It is usual to spend four years as an apprentice. The best
locations are in seaports or river towns. I think the occupation is too
laborious for women."

Page 594

506. Shoe-Peg Makers.

A shoe-peg manufacturing association, in New Hampshire, furnish me a
report of the work they have done by women, as follows: "Women are
employed only to feed the machine with prepared blocks, and sorting pegs
after they are split. The work is light, and well adapted to the physical
capacity of girls and women. They can do the work just as well as young
men and boys, and perhaps a little quicker. Wages are perhaps two thirds as
much as that of men in the same branches. Two hundred women would do
all the work, in their several departments, in the business, for the whole of
North and South America. We employ sixteen in our mill, at $3.50 per
week, including board, which is called about $1.75. Men are not employed
in the same branches. A part could be learned in one month—nearly half of
it would require from six to twelve months. Girls are paid $3 a week, while
learning. Nothing needed but ready and quick application. They work
eleven hours. Each hour less would be more than a private loss. All are
Americans."

507. Shroud Makers.

There is something repulsive in death—the shroud—the cap—the coffin—
the sunken eyes—the still hands and ghastly face. Death is fearful, even in
its mildest forms. And yet how we yearn for rest—how we long for quiet!
How we pant for that glorious freedom from anxiety and care, that awaits
the just in heaven! The change of the chrysalis to the butterfly, of the seed
to the plant, of the earth beneath our feet, and the heavens above—the very
consciousness within us, all proclaim unmistakably the truth that the spirit
will not die—that it is immortal. There are duties connected with the house
of mourning that afflicted friends and relatives have not the heart to
perform. These, therefore, devolve upon persons interested in the dead, or
hired attendants. Closing the eyes, washing the body, making the shroud
and putting it on, are in some cases performed by the hired nurse, but
generally making the shroud is done by the undertaker's wife. Some
undertakers keep shrouds in their shops ready for sale. In large cities, an
undertaker's wife is in many cases sent for by the nurse, to assist in laying

Page 595

out the dead, and receives, as a compensation, from $3 to $5. The wife of an
undertaker told me that she lines the coffins for her husband. They buy their
caps already made, of an old lady who brings them around. Mr. ——, an
undertaker, is always willing to dress the remains of any but those who have
died of small pox. He charges $3 to wash and dress a corpse, $5 with
shaving. An undertaker told me he knew women could be employed in
plaiting the folds of silk in coffins, and making coffin pillows. The
wholesale trade send away large quantities of shrouds and caps, and so have
many made up. A man in Newark, who devotes himself exclusively to
making shrouds, employs several women. In England, some undertakers
employ women to make up mourning suits.

508. Sign Painters.

Sign painting requires a long, steady, and regular apprenticeship. It requires
also a correct eye and a steady hand. In large cities, sign and ornamental
painting can be made a distinct branch of painting; but in a town or village
it is combined with carriage or house painting, as one individual seldom has
enough sign and ornamental painting to keep him constantly occupied. It is
not more necessary for a painter to know how to mix the paints, and use
judgment and taste in the selection of colors, than to form letters according
to geometrical proportions. A painter must measure, more by the eye than a
rule, the size and arrangement of letters in a given space. Good painters
receive $3, $4, and $5 a day for their work, but generally are paid by the
piece. When paid by the week, and they work regularly, they receive from
$12 to $15 a week. Mrs. K., New York, says in Dublin there are many
families that devote themselves to sign painting, but she knows of none in
this country except her own. She employs a man to grind paints, put up
signs, &c.,—also to paint out-of-door signs, that is, such as must be painted
on the building. Her two daughters paint all the signs that are to be put up.
Some of the large signs above stores in New York have been painted by
them. They are paid as good prices as men. She thinks an individual should
commence early to learn. Her daughters received their instruction and
advice from their father. In that way they acquired maturity of judgment and
nicety of hand. Judgment needs to be exercised in regard to size and space,

Page 596

and artistic taste in ornamenting. A sign painter told me that superior
workers can earn from $3 to $15 a day, if they have sufficient employment.
Many house and other painters, in cities, profess to paint signs, but in
reality have it done. Germans do much of it in New York, because they do it
cheaply, but many of them do not execute their work well. It is customary
to have an apprentice three years, and pay the usual terms, $2.50 a week,
the first year. A boy, during the first year, mostly grinds paints, goes
errands, &c. Spring is the most busy season. Painting in oils is not neat
work. A sign and carriage painter writes me: "The work is unhealthy on
account of the poisonous vapors and dust. It requires two or three years to
learn, and one must have a great deal of practice. A common education,
natural taste, and a correct eye are the qualifications needed. Many parts of
it are very easy and pleasant. Some parts might be done by women." The
business pays best in large towns and cities. An ornamental painter writes
me: "Women are employed in sign painting in England, France, Germany,
and Belgium. The time required to learn would depend on the taste or
genius of the individual. The qualifications requisite are those of an artist in
a less degree." B., an emblematic sign painter, thinks the employment very
suitable for females, but supposes there are better openings in other cities
than New York. It requires two or three years to learn all the different
branches well. During the first year a learner could not support herself, but
after that could, if she had a taste for it, was industrious, and received
enough orders to keep her busy.

Page 597

509. Snuff Packers.

At a snuff factory, I saw two women putting up snuff. The women color the bladders for holding snuff, in
tobacco water, pack, cap, label, varnish, and wrap them. They are weighed after being packed, and women
are paid at the rate of one cent a pound. Women always stand in packing. They can earn from $5 to $6 a
week, and have work all the year. The woman with whom we conversed was a sensible American, who told
us her health had failed greatly during the nine years she had worked in snuff. While working in the snuff,
women wear caps, but are so covered with it that they might be mistaken for bags of snuff. Of course, a great
deal is inhaled. Both the women I saw complained of difficulty in breathing, particularly when they lie down
at night. One said, when suffering great oppression she would vomit, and throw up snuff as fresh in taste and
smell as before it was inhaled. For packing snuff in jars, they are paid by the week, $4.50, and, for putting it
in bottles still less. Men are mostly employed in packing snuff.

510. Stencil Makers.

A stencil-plate maker told me that cutting the plates could be done by women, but it would require a strong,
stout woman to hammer the plates after they are cool. In learning, a boy receives $2 a week. There are very
few stencil cutters in the South and West. People send North for their plates, or get them cut by travelling
peddlers, who are not allowed now in the South. The price of stencil plates has fallen very greatly. Such as
would have sold for $5 a few years ago, can now be had for fifty cents. I saw a lady who cut stencil plates.
She wanted an agent to sell her plates and ink.

511. Street Sweepers.

The girls seen in New York sweeping the crossings in winter, are not paid by the city, but receive, now and
then, from a passer by, a penny for their labor. If enough of strong men were employed by the city, and
properly paid, it would serve to diminish the $13,000,000 annually spent in New York for preventable
sickness, where thirty-one die every day more than in Philadelphia, while its natural advantages are greater.
In Paris, women are employed as street sweepers.

512. Tip Gilders.

Most hats and caps are made in New York city. There are six establishments in the city devoted to tip
gilding, and morocco cutting and rolling, and four girls, on an average, in each. The girls put the sizing and
gold leaf on, and, when the impression is made, brush the loose gold leaf off. A man in the business told me
he sometimes finds it difficult to get a good hand, and always prefers to teach a girl. He pays from $2 to $6 a
week. The men cut the morocco for linings, and girls roll down the edge by running it through a small
machine.

513. Tobacco Strippers.

In tobacco factories, women are generally employed to strip the leaves from the stems. Smoking tobacco is
cut in machines, and put in papers of different sizes. But little chewing tobacco is prepared in the Southern
and Western States, though some factories have commenced it in the West during the last few years. Some
leaf tobacco is put up in the South by slaves. In the West it is difficult to get hands, but in New York there is
a surplus, though they are the very dregs of society. A. told me the women he employs are mostly Irish, and
of low origin. They are generally old women, not fit for much else, and they are quite as poorly paid as in

Page 598

any other branch of labor. The part done by women is not unhealthy, though some of the parts done by men
in close rooms are thought to be unhealthy. H. pays by the pound for stripping, and the girls earn from $2 to
$4 a week. They sit while at work. In packing they stand, because they can do more. He employs his hands
all the year. For packing tobacco in papers and boxes the girls are paid by the paper, and earn about the same
as the strippers. The work is dirty, and the hands change their clothes when they come and go. It requires
some time to acquire expertness. H. considers tobacco very healthy, if not taken inwardly to excess. He says
tobacco workers never have fevers. (?) I went through G.'s factory. I never saw females engaged in such
degrading work, and so uncomfortably situated, in all my life. It is far worse than rag picking. A tier of
bunks (two on a side), in dark, narrow rooms, the centre filled with hogsheads of tobacco, a hatchway, and
machinery made up the furniture of the place. The air was so close and strong, that I was almost stifled
during the short time I spent there. The floor was covered with filth and waste tobacco. In the lower bunks,
in one room, it was with difficulty I could discover the features of the old women and neglected children, at
work. A forewoman had the superintendence, who assisted the workers in weighing the tobacco, and keeping
an account of the amount given each. They were mostly Irish. It is very filthy, disagreeable work. Their
tobacco strippers are paid fifty cents one hundred pounds. They strip from twenty to fifty pounds a day,
earning from $1 to $3 a week. The majority have no homes, but hire lodgings at thirty-seven cents a week,
and buy something to eat. They work from seven to half past five or six, having half an hour at noon. At C.'s,
the rooms were not so dark, cramped, and uncomfortable as at G.'s. They employ seventy-five women and
children. The forewoman told me that a smart hand, working in good leaf, and having constant employment,
can earn from $3 to $5 a week. They are paid two cents for three pounds. The packers, if active and skilful,
can earn more. At a place on Greenwich street, they pay thirty-five cents per hundred pounds for stripping,
and a woman may earn from $1 to $4 a week at it. At packing they can earn from $3 to $6. At L.'s, they
employ one hundred and twenty-five girls and women. At packing their girls can earn from $4.25 to $9 a
week, working only in daylight. Strippers can earn from $1.50 to $3.50, and are mostly old widow women
with children. The foreman thinks it most healthy for packers to stand, as they are thereby saved from
stooping. He tries to get the best class of girls he can, but he finds it impossible to secure the services of
American girls. I am glad American girls object to working in the filthy weed. The girls at L.'s have
employment all the year. M. pays forty cents per hundred pounds for stripping. His strippers earn from thirty
to forty cents a day. Some packers are able to earn $1 a day. They have work all the year. Tobacconists in
Albany write: "We employ women in papering tobacco, and pay by the dozen, the hands earning from $3 to
$5 per week. They work ten hours a day, the year through." A tobacconist in Hartford "pays his women by
the week, $3.50, for stripping tobacco. They work ten hours a day. It requires but a few weeks to learn the
work done by women." B——'s, of Boston, write: "We always have employment for women, in stripping
and papering tobacco, and other light work. They are employed, also, in making cigars. By some physicians
the work is considered healthy. We pay by the week, from $3 to $5, working ten hours a day. The men who
make cigars are mostly foreigners, thoroughly acquainted with their business, a kind of work which requires
a regular apprenticeship to learn. The women never give their time to learn, and we cannot afford to teach
them, on account of the low price of goods made in Germany, shipped here by millions. Hence, the men, in
their part of the business, earn from $6 to $15 per week. Learners receive their board. It would be much
better if a tariff, excluding cheap cigars, were passed. The comfort and remuneration are as good as any
branch of female industry. Board, $2 to $3."

514. Toy Makers.

The thousand and one inventions for amusing children have given exercise to a variety of talents. Any
particular style of toy follows the fashion of the world—it passes away, and another takes its place. Pewter
toys are made in New York, tin toys in Philadelphia and Connecticut. The reason more toys are not made in
this country is the high price of labor and living. Children's drums are made both in the city and country. N.
& Co., manufacturers of military and toy drums in Massachusetts, write: "We employ one woman only in
our factory, who makes the straps for drums. She works by the piece, and earns $1 a day, boarding herself."

Page 599

A manufacturer of pewter toys, in New York, employs ten or twelve boys. He pays $1.75 per week, of ten
hours a day. He could use girls just as well, but prefers boys. I called at a manufactory of tin ware. The
proprietor makes tin toys, and employs some women to paint them. The work has to be done on the
premises, as the articles have to be subjected to heat after they are painted. The girls work ten hours a day,
and are paid $3 a week. H., New York, makes small boats and vessels. They range in price from 37 cents to
$30. The highest priced are perfect in all their parts. He pays a woman $80 a year for stitching by machine
the edges of the sails. B., manufacturer of mechanical toys, employs twenty girls in soldering and painting.
The painting is done by stencils. It requires but a short time to learn. Good hands earn from $2.50 to $4 per
week. There are two departments in the manufacture of dolls—making and painting. D. employs women out
of the house to make bodies for dolls—muslin stuffed with wadding. G., New York, pays his girls about $4
per week for dressing dolls. At a large store in New York, I was told they employ a number of girls for
dressing dolls, paying from $3 to $4 per week. They pay by the piece, according to the size, and style of
dress. In busy seasons, the girls are allowed to take some dolls home and dress them in the evening. Doll
dressing requires taste, expertness, ingenuity, and economy in cutting the materials. Their room is
superintended by a lady. At a store for the sale of fancy goods, on inquiring about the canton-flannel rabbits,
mice, &c., I was told they give them to a school girl in Brooklyn to make. She makes them out of school
hours, and earns $1.50 per week. They are sewed by a machine, because it can be done faster. The treasurer
of a firm manufacturing Yankee notions, in Providence, writes they have six women employed in labelling
and packing light goods, who earn from $3 to $6 per week, of ten hours a day. It requires about four weeks
to learn to do the work. There is no difference in seasons. What work women do at all they do as well as
men. Some places are better than others for this style of manufacture.

515. Varnishers and Varnish Makers.

In France, women are employed as varnishers of furniture. At some varnish factories, women are employed
to separate the good from the imperfect gum, and I think are paid the usual price of woman's work, 50 cents
a day. Women might make spirit varnish. Copal varnish has to be boiled, and is liable to take fire. As it
requires much strength to stir it, women could not very well make it. The varnishing of pianos could be done
by women. A manufacturer of musical instruments told me a solution, one constituent of which is pulverized
marble, has been made for varnishing, that is very substantial. A knife can be broken against it, after it has
become hardened on furniture. It will probably be used very extensively.

516. Water Carriers.

"Everywhere on the banks of the Nile, the poorer sort of women may be seen bringing up water from the
river, in pitchers, on their heads or shoulders." There are from one hundred to one hundred and fifty water
carriers in London, but they are mostly or all men.

Page 600

EMPLOYMENTS FOR THE AFFLICTED.

517. Blind Women.

Many blind persons are employed as follows: Attendants in blind institutions, authors, basket makers, bead
workers, broom makers, brush makers, carpet and rug weavers, chair seaters, flower and fruit venders,
governesses, hair and moss pickers, hucksters, knitters, match sellers, mattress makers, milk sellers, music
teachers, netters, newspaper and book agents, paper-box makers, seamstresses, stationers, straw braiders,
teachers, umbrella sewers, washerwomen, willow workers. We think they usually engage in their work with
pleasure and profit. Fortunately the tools employed in the occupations of the blind do not cost much. So if
the blind have a thorough knowledge of some pursuit, and means to keep them until they are established and
able to secure constant work, they may feel sure of a comfortable livelihood. Their occupations are of a kind
to furnish them with most constant employment in a city. Though the compensation for each article is small,
yet, when one's time is fully occupied, the aggregate is considerable.

518. Deaf Mutes.

Deaf mutes can engage in most branches of book making, fancy work, sewing, shoe making, teach drawing,
and teach those afflicted like themselves.

519. The Lame.

The lame can braid straw, color photographs, copy, cut labels, edit papers, embroider, engrave, make mats,
make pens, model, paint, sew—indeed, do almost anything. Lameness is no excuse for idleness. What do
lame men do? None of them, that have any self-respect, beg or sit idle because they are lame.

Page 601

UNUSUAL EMPLOYMENTS.

520. United States.

Last summer, a lady ascended alone in a balloon, from Palace Garden, N. Y. She went up once in a balloon
filled with hot air. She received part of the profits derived from the admittance fees, and the keeper of the
garden the other portion, neither of which were very large. Several women have gone up with their
husbands. We take the following items from the summary of the San Francisco Alta California, of December
5th: "At the recent election, two women were elected to fill office in Placer County—one as justice of the
peace, and the other as constable. Each received one vote in the precinct, and there was no opposition." It is
seldom that a lady's exertions are called forth as were those of Mrs. Patton, wife of the captain of the ship
Neptune's Car. Yet, it goes to confirm what we have stated in some other place, that any valuable
information acquired will always come in use. We will quote the extract as we saw it in a newspaper, copied
from a San Francisco letter: "Fifty days ago, Captain Patton was attacked with the brain fever, and for the
last twenty-five days has been blind. Previous to his illness, he had put the first mate off duty on account of
his incompetency. After the captain's illness, the second mate took charge of the ship, but he did not
understand navigation. The first mate wrote Mrs. Patton a letter, reminding her of the dangers of the coast,
and of the great responsibility she had assumed, and offered to take charge of the ship; but she stood by the
decision of her husband and declined the offer. She worked up the reckoning every day, and brought the ship
safely into port. During all this time she acted as nurse to the captain. She studied medicine to learn how to
treat his case, and shaved his head, and by competent care and watchfulness kept him alive. She said that for
fifty nights she had not undressed herself. Few women could have done so much and done it so well. She
was at once navigator, nurse, and physician, and protector of the property intrusted to her husband." The
Geneva Courier notices the appearance in that village "of a strong-armed, strong-backed, and, of course,
strong-minded woman, in charge of a canal boat, of which she is owner and captain. She is of German
origin, and manages her craft with great ability." In New York, I saw a woman driving a bread wagon, one
rolling a wheelbarrow, and another drawing a similar wagon filled with ashes. A few women are employed
in charcoal burning in New Jersey.

521. England.

In looking over the census of Great Britain, for 1850, we are surprised to find that in some of those
occupations most suitable for women, as physicians, music composers, teachers of mathematics, macaroni
packers, mask makers, honey dealers, lecturers, reporters, and spice merchants, not one female is reported;
while, in occupations altogether unsuitable, many women are employed—in some, even hundreds. No doubt
many of these women, perhaps a majority, and in some occupations it may be all, are the widows of men
who have been engaged in the business, and who employ others to do the work. In some of the other
occupations, the women probably do only the lighter work, under the direction of the masters or competent
foremen. Circumstances, as regards occupation, certainly do much to influence the fate of every one. But in
no respect is there a greater need of reform, than in the proper appreciation of employments by the sexes.
Men have, in bygone times, seized upon the lightest and most lucrative occupations, and by custom still
retain them. The most laborious and disagreeable work is left for women, and what is still worse, they are
paid only from one third to one half as much as men, doing the same kind of work. Of the occupations that
strike us as odd for women, in the census of Great Britain, are makers of agricultural implements, anchor
smiths, barge women, barge boat builders, bell hangers, bedstead makers, bill stickers, blacksmiths, brass
manufacturers, brick makers, bristle manufacturers, builders, carpenters, case (packing) makers, chimney
sweepers, coke burners, commercial travellers, engine and machinery makers, ferriers, goldbeaters,

Page 602

grindstone cutters, gun makers, hawkers, hemp manufacturers, hinge makers, nail manufacturers, oil
refiners, paper hangers, parasol and umbrella stick manufacturers, peat cutters, plasterers, potato merchants,
railway-station attendants, razor makers, ring-chain makers, rivet makers, rope makers, saddle-tree makers,
sail makers, scale makers, sawyers, scavengers, sextons, ship agents, ship builders, small steel-ware
manufacturers, snuff and tobacco manufacturers, spade makers, spar cutters, spirit and wine merchants,
stone breakers, stone quarriers, stove, grate, and range makers, sugar refiners, surgical-instrument makers,
timber merchants, timber choppers and benders, tin manufacturers, trunk makers, turners, turpentine
manufacturers, undertakers, vermin destroyers, well sinkers, wheelwrights, white-metal manufacturers, wine
manufacturers, wood dealers, and zinc manufacturers. In the furniture trade of Great Britain, 5,763 women
are employed, while 7,479 are engaged in conveyance. I would also add, that in Great Britain, women have
been, and still are, to some extent, employed in coal, copper, iron, lead, manganese, salt, tin, and other
mineral mines. Of those for men extremely inappropriate, are reported three hundred and sixty-six dress
makers, and sixty-one embroiderers. "In the reign of George II. (says Mrs. Childs), the minister of
Clerkenwell was chosen by a majority of women. The office of champion has frequently been held by a
woman, and was so at the coronation of George I. The office of grand chamberlain, in 1822, was filled by
two women; and that of clerk of the crown, in the court of king's bench, has been granted to a female. The
celebrated Anne, Countess of Pembroke, held the hereditary office of sheriff of Westmoreland, and exercised
it in person, sitting on the bench of the judges. In ancient councils, mention is made of deaconesses; and in
an edition of the New Testament printed in 1574, a woman is spoken of as minister of a church." Miss Betsy
Miller has for years commanded the Scotch brig, Cleotus. Her father commanded a vessel plying between
England and France. After his wife died, the daughter frequently accompanied him. On his death, being
without a home on land, she took command of the vessel, and remained in the capacity of captain several
years. An English correspondent of an American paper writes: "Walking, lately, near some white-lead works,
about the hour of closing, we observed the sudden egress of about a hundred women from the establishment,
all Irish, and all decently clad and well conducted. On inquiry, we found that they are employed
continuously in the works, piling the lead for oxidation, and in various other processes, not by any means
coming under the denomination of light labor." A few years ago, a singular death occurred in England. It was
that of a woman, who, owing to harsh treatment from her parents when a child, left her home at the age of
eight, dressed in boy's clothes, got work as a boy, learned the trade of a mason, and worked at it until about
middle age, when the business was changed for that of a beer house, in which occupation the individual
continued until her death, at the age of sixty. She always dressed as a man. When quite young, she was very
industrious and hard-working. Many of the large houses and tall chimneys in Manchester and Salford were
built by her. "The 7,000 women returned in the census under the head of miners, are, no doubt, for the most
part, the dressers of the ores in the Cornish and Welsh mines. The work is dirty, but not too laborious; less
laborious than the work which may perhaps be included under the same head—the supplying porcelain clay
from the same regions of country. Travellers in Devonshire and Cornwall are familiar with the ugly scenery
of hillsides where turf is taken up, and the series of clay pits is overflowing, and the plastered women are
stirring the mess, or sifting and straining, or drying or moulding the refined clay. The mineral interest is,
however, one of the smallest in the schedule of female industry; and it is likely to contract, rather than
expand—except the labor of sorting the ores." In Great Britain, some women work in alabaster, and some in
alum mines. In what is called the Black country, some women are employed on the pit banks, and some
about the furnace yards. A London paper says: "Melton and its neighborhood can boast of three public
characters, which, perhaps, no other can; namely, two independent ladies, who have taken out game
certificates, and who enter the field, and can bring down the game equal to any sportsman, as well as those
indulging in fishing, hunting over the country with hounds, &c. The third is a female blacksmith, a daughter
of Mr. William Hinman, who is such an adept at shoeing a horse or working at the anvil, as to cause
universal excitement. It was but the other day that she took off the old shoes of a horse, pared the feet, and
fitted the shoes at the fire, and affixed them in the most scientific manner possible, and in considerably less
time than her father could, who is called one of the quickest shoers in Melton." Some women are employed
as kelp burners in Great Britain; and some, as bathers, manage the bathing machines used on the coast. In
the census of Great Britain are reported some women as hack proprietors.

Page 603

522. France.

A Paris correspondent of the New York Times writes: "My washerwoman is a man. He lives in the Rue
Blanc, and any one may see him up to his elbows in soap suds, or ironing frills on bosoms. His wife is a
wood sawyer." It is not unusual, in the public gardens of Germany, and on the broad sidewalks of the
Boulevards in Paris, for men and women to hire a chair for a sou to a passer by who wishes to rest. In
France, some women are engaged in cutting and drying seaweeds, and some in making wooden shoes. "In
the department of Somme, France, women alone have the right to go into the fields and gather stones to
repair the roads. In the cantons where peat is dug, the privilege of loading and unloading the boats which
carry it is given them. At Cistal, in Provence, women alone have been authorized to sell the water which was
brought from a fountain some distance from the city. No man could be a carrier of water. In other parts, to
women is given the transport of trunks, valises, clothes bags, and effects for the use of travellers on packets.
These resources are momentary. Accorded by one mayor, they can be withdrawn by another." "In Paris,
women cry the rate of exchange, after Bourse hours." They also "undertake the moving of furniture, agree
with you as to price, and you find them quite as responsible as men." The author of "Parisian Sights and
French Principles" mentions a number of female employments rather novel to Americans: "I will say nothing
of their laboring in the field, their driving huge carts through the streets of Paris, and other rude labors which
soon rub out of them all feminine softness; but confine myself to the more agreeable duties which they have
here usurped from men. Indeed, a man is but a secondary being in the scale of French civilization. The
'dames à comptoir' are as essential to the success of a Parisian café as the cook himself. More hats are
donned at their shrines than before the most brilliant belles of the metropolis. My boot maker, or the head of
the establishment, is a woman; my porter is of the same sex, older in years and worse in looks; my butcher,
milkman, and the old-clothes man, newsboy, and rag gatherer beneath my window, ditto. They are waiters at
the baths, doorkeepers at the theatres, ticket sellers, fiddlers, chair letters of the churches; they figure in
every revolution, and have a tongue and arms in every fight; in short, they are at the bottom and top of
everything in France." In the Hotel des Invalides, at Paris, is Lieutenant Madame Brulow, who entered in
1799, and has been there ever since. Her father, brothers, and husband were soldiers, and were all killed in
battle; at the age of twenty she was a widow and a mother. She joined the French army at Corsica, where she
behaved very bravely; but was disabled for service by the bursting of a bomb while in the discharge of her
duties as sergeant. She is a woman of chaste manners and correct principles. She dresses in the uniform of
the Invalides. Louis XVIII. conferred on her the rank of second lieutenant, and by the present Napoleon she
was made a member of the society of the Legion of Honor. A female soldier, whose history is similar to
Madame Brulow's, died near Paris, a short time since, at the age of eighty-seven. She was a dragoon, and
served in Italy, Germany, and Spain, in all the campaigns of the French, from 1793 to 1812. When Bonaparte
was first consul, he expressed a wish to see her, and she was kindly received by him at St. Cloud. She
received many wounds in battle, and had four horses killed under her. We find the following article, taken
from Galignani's Messenger: "In consequence of the success obtained by Madame Isabella in breaking
horses for the Russian army, the French Minister of War authorized her to proceed, officially, before a
commission of generals and superior officers of cavalry, to a practical demonstration of the method, on a
certain number of young cavalry horses. After twenty days' training, the horses were so perfectly broken in,
that the Minister no longer hesitated to enter into an arrangement with Madame Isabella to introduce her
system into all the imperial schools of cavalry, beginning with that of Saumur."

523. Other Countries.

Professor Ingraham, in his "Pillar of Fire," describing the Hebrews at work in Egypt, says: "The men that
carried brick to the smoothly swept ground where they were to be dried, delivered them to women, who,
many hundreds in number, placed them side by side on the earth in rows—a lighter task than that of the men.
The borders of this busy plain, where it touched the fields of stubble wheat, were thronged with women and
children gathering straw for the men who mixed the clay." "The Egyptian ladies," says the same writer,

Page 604

"employed much of their time with the needle, and either with their own hands, or by the agency of their
maidens, they embroidered, wove, spun, and did needlework." Herodotus says: "It was expected of the
virgins consecrated to the service of the Egyptian temples to gather flowers for the altars, to feed the sacred
birds, and daily to fill the vases with pure, fresh water from the Nile." During the middle ages, "women
preached in public, supported controversies, published and defended theses, filled the chairs of philosophy
and law, harangued the popes in Latin, wrote Greek, and read Hebrew. Nuns wrote poetry, women of rank
became divines, and young girls publicly exhorted Christian princes to take up arms for the recovery of the
Holy Sepulchre." "In the Greek island of Hinnin, the inhabitants gain a livelihood by obtaining sponges for
the Turkish baths; and no girl is allowed to marry till she has proved her dexterity by bringing up from the
sea a certain quantity of this marketable article." The wife of the Burmese governor was observed, by some
Englishmen, to superintend the building of her husband's ship. "In many of the South Sea islands, women
assist in the construction of the buildings appropriated to common use. Sometimes a woman of distinction
may be seen carrying a heavy stone for the foundation of a building, while a stout attendant carries the light
feathered staff to denote her rank." "In Genoa there are marriage brokers, who have pocketbooks filled with
the names of marriageable girls of different classes, with an account of their fortunes, personal attractions,
&c. When they succeed in arranging connections, they have two or three per cent. commission on the
portion. The contract is often drawn up before the parties have seen each other. If a man dislikes the
appearance or manners of his future partner, he may break off the match, on condition of paying the
brokerage and other expenses." In the "Art Student in Munich," we find this passage: "You know, in
Germany, your neighbor's dresses by meeting the laundresses bearing them home through the streets upon
tall poles, like gay pennons." "In Munich, a servant girl will be sent around with a number of advertisements
and a paste pot, and pastes up the advertisements at the corners of the streets throughout the city." "At
Homburg, Germany, four, six, or eight girls, according to the season, dip the water from the spring, by taking
three tumblers by the handles in each hand, and filling them without stopping, and supplying those in
waiting, so fast that there is no crowd and no jostling and impatience." Mrs. Nicolson says: "Many a poor
widow have I seen in Ireland, with some little son or daughter, spreading manure, by moonlight, over her
scanty patch of ground; or, before the rising of the sun, going out, with her wisp about her forehead and
basket to her back, to gather her turf or potatoes." "In the elevated, cold, dry regions of Thibet, the goats are
furnished with a fine down or hair-like wool under the coarse, common outer wool. The long hairs are
picked out, the remainder washed out in nice water, and then handspun by women." "In some African tribes,
it is common for the women to unite with the men in hunting the lion and the leopard." During the reign of
Anne of Austria, the French women often appeared at the head of political factions, wearing scarfs that
designated the party to which they belonged. Swords and harps, violins and cuirasses, were seen together in
the same saloon. There was a regiment created under the name of mademoiselle. "During the late war, Polish
women assisted the men in erecting fortifications, and one of the outworks was called the 'lunette of the
women,' because it was built entirely by their hands. The Countess Plater raised and equipped a regiment of
five or six hundred Lithuanians at her own expense; and she was uniformly at their head, encouraging them
by her brave example in every battle. The women proposed to form three companies of their own sex, to
share the fatigues and perils of the army; but their countrymen, wishing to employ their energies in a manner
less dangerous, distributed them among the hospitals to attend the wounded." "In the army of the King of
Siam, one corps particularly attracts the attention of strangers, which is a battalion of the king's guard,
composed of women. This battalion consists of four hundred women, chosen from among the handsomest
and most robust girls in the country. They receive excellent pay, and their discipline is perfect. They are
admitted to serve at the age of thirteen, and are placed in the army of reserve at twenty-five. From that
period they no longer serve about the king's person, but are employed to guard the royal palaces and crown
lands."

Page 605

MINOR EMPLOYMENTS.

524. United States.

A little boy told me he used to catch butterflies, and sell them in New York at a penny apiece for canary
birds. Sometimes he would get one hundred a day; and at other times, not as many a week. Some women are
seen on the streets of our large cities, selling baskets, brushes, sponges, and wash leather—and many with
baskets containing tape, cord, pins, &c. Some women buy waste paper to sell to grocers, butchers,
fishmongers, and such others as would use it for wrapping. A few resort to levees and warehouses to seek the
scraps of waste cotton that are lost by the removal of bales. Some collect ashes, separate the cinders, wash
and sell them; while some collect wood scattered about lumber yards, and catch that drifting in rivers.

525. England.

Some children on the streets of London are employed in the sale of fly-papers. Some sell paper cuttings to
ornament ceilings. Sand is sold on the streets for scouring and for birds—also gravel for birds. Some
women, in London, go around and buy the skins of rabbits and hares to sell again, and some keep little shops
where they buy kitchen stuff, grease, and dripping. In England, women are hired to pick currants and
gooseberries, put up fruit, weed gardens, bind grain, pick hops, and sometimes even to cut hay and dig
potatoes. On the streets of London, some women sell conundrums and playbills, which are pinned to a large
screen, and a number sell stationery. In old countries nothing is lost. Use is found for every article, even
when no longer of value for its original purpose. For instance, old tin kettles and coal scuttles, we learn from
Mr. Babbage, are cut up for the bottoms and bands of trunks, and by manufacturing chemists in preparing a
black dye used by calico printers. In some cities of the old countries, every variety of second-hand
miscellaneous articles are sold in shops, from a Jew's harp to a bedstead. In London, Mayhew says: "Among
the mudlarks may be seen many old women, and it is indeed pitiable to behold them, especially during the
winter, bent nearly double with age and infirmity, paddling and groping among the wet mud for small pieces
of coal, chips of wood, copper nails that drop out of the sheathing of vessels, or any sort of refuse washed up
by the tide. These women always have with them an old basket, or an old tin kettle, in which they put
whatever they may chance to find. It usually takes them the whole tide to fill the receptacle, but, when filled,
it is as much as the feeble old creatures are able to carry home." Little girls, too, eagerly press into the mud
as the tide recedes, to secure what trifles they can, by which to gain bread.

526. France.

In France, many women are employed in vineyards to pick grapes, tie up the vines, &c. L. told me he had
seen women in France employed in preparing a kind of fuel made of clay mixed in water, cast in moulds,
and dried. Females are employed by some of the merchants in Paris to carry goods home for purchasers. One
of the most flourishing of the minor street trades of Paris is that in fried potatoes, invented some twenty-five
years ago by a man that made his fortune at the business. A few years back might have been seen in the
grounds of the Tuileries an old woman with a long stick, drawing off the surface of the water the feathers
that loosened and fell from the swans that floated on the ponds. That old woman sold the feathers to buy
bread.

527. Occupations in which no Women are employed.

Page 606

I have received information from persons saying women are never engaged in their branches of business,
which are the following: Architectural Ornamentation, Bonedust, Buckets, Carriage painting, Copperas
("hard and unsuitable"), Currying, Drug Mills ("only fit for able-bodied men"), Edge Tools ("not adapted to
the sex"), Emery Paper, Flour Mills, Glazier's Diamonds, Gunpowder ("dangerous"), India Rubber Belting,
Magnesia, Melodeons, Mercantile Agencies, Metallic Furniture, Oil, Oil Cloth, Organ building, Paint Mills,
Pattern making (of wood), Pearlash ("unsuitable"), Philosophical Instruments (except Globes), Pine
Furniture, Pork packing, Reed making, Rivets, Roll covering, Seed crushing ("requires able bodied men"),
Sellers of License, Ship Crackers, Shot and Lead ("dangerous and unhealthy"), Shovels, Slate, Spools,
Starch ("too hard"), Steel-letter cutting, Stone quarrying, Street-lamp lighting, Sulphur ("unhealthy"),
Superphosphate of Lime ("requires too much muscular strength"), Surveyors' and Engineers' Instruments,
Tanning, Tinfoil, Trowels, Vinegar, Wholesale Fruit dealing, Wire drawing, Wool combing, and Zinc
manufacture.

528. None in the United States.

There are no women employed in any capacity in connection with mining and shipping coal in our country.
Neither could any branch of the business be well placed under their supervision, for very nearly all the labor
is performed by foreigners of the most low and illiterate class. None are employed in Baggage
transportation, Bleaching, Brokers' Offices, Chemical Works, Cutlery, Furniture moving, Glue drying, Gun
making, Iron Works, Landscape gardening, Lead Pencils, Sail making, Savings Banks, Silvering Mirrors,
Tending Sheep, and Wood carving.

529. Very few employed.

Attending in offices of ladies' physicians, Charcoal burning, China painting, Chiropody, Clock Work,
Lacquering, Marble Work, Mirror Frames, Sign painting, Stencil cutting, and Stone Ware. "As a curious
incident of the growing availability of female labor, Vermont returns four females engaged in ship building,
and Virginia reports two so employed." Mrs. Swisshelm is an inspector of lumber, receiving a salary of $500
per annum. Mrs. N. Smith was recently elected mayoress in Oskaloosa, Iowa, the first time that office was
ever filled by a lady. We have been told of a Miss D., who furnishes houses, receiving a stipulated sum for
the exercise of her taste and judgment, and the time and trouble of making purchases. In the Southern States,
a few colored women are employed about sugar mills, and many in gathering cotton. I suppose that in some
countries women may be, and probably are employed in the preparation of isinglass and gelatine; also, in
collecting cochineal, and gathering rice and coffee.

530. The South.

There will be openings in the South for business in the following branches:

Artificial Eyes, Limbs, and Teeth.
Artificial Flowers.
Bags (Cotton and Paper).
Baskets.
Belts (Ladies').
Bonnets.
Bonnet Ruches.
Bonnet Frames.

Page 607

Books.
Braces and Trusses.
Brushes.
Buttons.
Candles (from the tallow tree of South Carolina and Georgia).
Candy.
Canes.
Caps.
Card Printing and Stencilling.
Carpets.
Carriage Trimmings.
Car and Carriage Ornamenting.
China.
Cigars.
Cloaks and Mantillas.
Clocks.
Clothing.
Cord.
Cordage and Twine.
Cutlery.
Daguerreotype Apparatus, &c.
Designs.
Drawings (Architectural, &c.).
Dress Caps.
Dress Trimmings.
Embroideries.
Envelopes.
Factory Work.
Fancy Stores.
Feather Dressing.
Fishing Tackle.
Furniture.
Gilding.
Gold Chains.
Gold Pens.
Gold and Silver Leaf.
Grape Growing.

Page 608

Gum-Elastic Goods.
Hair Dressing and Manufacturing.
Hardware.
Hats.
Hoop Skirts.
Horse Coverings.
Ink.
Jewelry.
Labels.
Lamps.
Lapidaries' Work.
Laundries.
Lead.
Leather.
Life Preservers.
Lithographing.
Maps.
Matches.
Military Goods.
Needle and Thread Stores.
Oils.
Paper Boxes.
Patterns (Ladies' and Children's).
Plated Ware.
Paints.
Painting and Staining of Glass.
Perfumery.
Photography.
Practising Medicine.
Picture Restoring.
Pipes.
Places of Summer Resort.
Porcelain.
Potash.
Pottery.
Printing.
Rag Collecting.

Page 609

Sealed Provisions.
Sewing-Machine Labor.
Shoes.
Shot.
Soda and Saleratus.
Spectacles.
Stair Rods.
Steel Engraving.
Straw Working.
Surgical Instruments.
Suspenders.
Tailors' Work.
Tape.
Tobacco Stripping and Packing.
Toys.
Types.
Umbrellas and Parasols.
Under Wear.
Wall Paper.
Watches.
Willow Growing.
Window Shades.
Wood Engraving.

There will be openings in St. Louis and Chicago for fur sewers. There has been a demand for mill girls in
Rhode Island. There is a surplus now of workers in cotton mills, but not of operatives in woollen mills. A
gentleman in Middletown, Conn., wrote me a boarding house for work girls is wanted there. Makers of
ladies' dress caps and ironers of new shirts have been scarce in New York city.

531. Prices of Board for Workwomen, and Remarks of Employers.

Aside from the prices of board for workwomen as mentioned in different parts of this work, I have
intelligence from employers in one hundred and fifteen towns and cities of the Eastern States, New York,
Pennsylvania, and New Jersey. These places number: Maine 4, New Hampshire 13, Vermont 4,
Massachusetts 34, Rhode Island 5, Connecticut 29, New York 19, Pennsylvania 5, and New Jersey 2. Of the
places in Maine, prices of board for women run from $1.33 ¹/3 to $1.50 a week. In New Hampshire, they
make the same range. In Vermont, the price is given, of all places, at $1.50. In Rhode Island, from $1.50 to
$3. In Connecticut, from $1.42. to $3. Massachusetts, from $1.25 to $4. New York, $1.50 to $3.50.
Pennsylvania, $1.50 to $5. New Jersey, $1.25 to $1.75. The difference in board is something between a small
town and a city in any State. The largest number of employers in cities give, as the most common prices,
from $1.50 to $3 per week. Lights and washing are sometimes included in these prices, but washing very
seldom—fuel in the rooms of the boarders, never. Employers write the boarding houses of their workmen

Page 610

are comfortable and respectable. We hope they are so, and wish that as much could be said of all. But we
must acknowledge that we feel disposed to question the comfort of the majority of those for which such
prices are paid in cities as mentioned by the employers. In villages and towns, board could be had at such
rates. But we are confident it would be impossible to furnish sufficient wholesome food and clean, well
ventilated lodging rooms, at the rates mostly specified in cities, where rent and provisions are high, with any
profit to the keepers of the houses. Some employers assert that women can live cheaper than men. They
cannot, in most places, to have as good accommodations; and when they can, the difference is slight. So a
just proportion in wages is not observed, even with such a plea. Most men in industrial avocations receive
$1.50 a day (many $2); women, from 50 cents to $1—most generally the former price. In France, a
workman usually receives 60 cents a day; a woman, over 30 cents. So women do not receive even as good
wages, in proportion to men, in the United States, as in France. In Lyons, France, women have always been
paid for work performed in the same proportion as men. Most hand seamstresses receive starvation prices in
both countries. In most industrial employments in Dublin, Ireland, women receive six English shillings a
week, for their work of ten hours a day. Yet on the dusty and disagreeable labor of sorting and picking rags,
some are enabled to earn eight shillings a week, but they are paid by the piece. School children in Dublin, as
well as the working classes, usually take Monday for a holiday. Nor is it confined to Dublin. In France and
England, Monday is made a day of freedom from work, and of reckless dissipation, with a large portion of
the working people. In most occupations open to women, the times for work are usually not more than six
months in the year, while men's extend the year round. Some employers write their women have more time
than inclination for mental improvement—that all their time is at their disposal, except those hours
employed in the factory, workshop, or store, which run from ten to seventeen hours. A woman's wardrobe
requires some hours' attention; and the more limited her means, the more time is needed to keep it in repair.
We think employers could do much good by learning the condition of their work people—what their habits
and home comforts are; and would recommend to those disposed to learn something of the results, to read a
work called "The Successful Merchant." I have heard there is a great laxity of morals in some of the
establishments of New York, where men and women are employed. Proprietors and foremen of correct
principles could do much to prevent this. Much, too, might be avoided by a careful selection of work people.
I learn from one employer that one of his workwomen reads aloud to the others while at work. It is an
admirable plan, but, where machinery is employed, could not be adopted, because of the noise. The best
policy for any government is a protection of home produce and manufactures—a policy that it is desirable to
see carried out more fully in our country. It will be observed that the farther we go south, as a general thing,
the better are the prices paid for labor. Living, however, is somewhat higher. So what is gained in one way is
lost in another. A majority of workwomen in this country are foreigners. In New York, I have heard the
opinion expressed that there are in that city fifteen foreign workwomen where there is one American. One
source of trouble among workwomen is the indifferent way in which they execute their work, arising from
the want of proper instruction, the want of application, or a careless habit they acquire. Another failing is
stopping often when at work. A misfortune with many workwomen is that they have not the physical
strength to do much work, to do it constantly, or to do it fast.

532. Number of Work Hours.

In France, the number of work hours is 12; in England, 10; and in most of the United States, 10. In some of
the United States there are no laws regulating the number of work hours; and in some States, where such
laws do exist, they are evaded.

533. Extracts from the Census Report for 1860.

In advance of publication, Mr. Kennedy, Superintendent of the United States Census Report, writes: "The
whole number, approximately, of females employed in the various branches of manufacture, is 285,000. The

Page 611

following are approximations to the average wages paid in New York and New England. Monthly wages of
females employed in making
Boots and shoes, $11 25
Clothing, 12 00
Cotton goods, 13 30
Woollen, 16 00
Paper boxes, 14 30
Umbrellas, &c. 13 38
Book folding, 15 38
Printing, 13 65
Millinery, 17 47
Ladies' mantillas, &c. 16 00
Hoop skirts, 14 00

Page 612

APPENDIX.
INDUSTRIAL STATISTICS OF PARIS, IN 1848.
Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Makers of 217 51 40 1 00 15 35 Jan., Feb.,
Accordions Aug.
Sculptors in 51 14 40 1 20 30 45 Jan., Feb.,
Alabaster Night March.
Lamps, and Wicks
Makers of Matches 184 357 25 1 00 12 60 May, June,
July, Aug.
Manufacturers of 83 4 45 0 80 30 .. June, July,
Starch and Aug.
Spongers of Cloths
Dressers of Woven 491 325 25 1 00 20 50 June, July,
Goods, Silver and Jan.
Copper
Dressers and 31 3 50 1 20 20 60 Jan., Feb.
Drawers of Gold
Gunsmiths 492 8 30 1 10 .. 35 June, July,
May,
March.
Makers of Scales 205 2 60 1 10 .. .. Jan., Feb.,
and Weights Aug.
Whalebone 96 42 20 1 00 average 29 Dec., Jan.,
Splitters Feb.
Bandage and Truss 278 404 50 0 83 60 $2 00 Jan., Feb.,
Makers and part of
Dec.
Beaters of Gold 195 377 50 1 20 20 60 Jan., Feb.
and Silver
Polishers of Steel 1,091 784 30 2 00 15 50 Jan., Feb.,
Jewelry March.
Mourning Jewelry 170 54 40 1 20 20 60 Jan., Feb.,
July.
False Jewelry 1,507 456 25 1 60 16 80 Jan., Feb.,
March.
Fine Jewelry 2,942 637 20 2 40 .. 48 July, Aug.,
Jan., Feb.
Garnishers of 83 4 50 1 10 20 40 Jan., Feb.,
Jewels and part of

Page 613

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
July.
Manufacturers of 216 9 40 2 00 30 60 July, Aug.,
Implements for Jan.
Billiards
Toy Manufacturers 641 1,345 25 1 20 10 80 Jan., Feb.,
March,
April.
Bleachers of 65 275 50 1 00 10 55 June, July,
Woven Goods Aug., and
part of Sept.
Washerwomen 36 7,491 40 0 70 20 60 Aug., July,
Jan., Feb.
Wood Workers 43 20 40 1 00 15 60 July, Aug.,
Jan., Feb.
Cap Makers 1,068 1,565 18 1 00 8 50 Jan., Feb.,
July, and
part of Aug.
Makers of Hooks 127 75 60 1 00 20 35 Jan. and
and Eyes, and part of Feb.
Buckles
Makers of Wax 186 113 40 1 00 15 60 June, July,
and Tallow Aug.
Candles
Bakers 1,996 643 25 0 60 30 and a loaf of bread June, July,
every day. Aug., Sept.
Embroiderers of 7 876 60 0 80 15 60 Jan., Feb.,
Bags and Purses July, and
Aug.
Button Makers, 405 185 40 1 20 18 40 From Dec.,
Horn, Pearl, &c. to Feb.,
being most
of 3
months.
Button Makers, 716 522 30 1 20 10 60 Jan., Feb.,
Cloth and Metal and part of
July and
Aug.
Bricks, Tiles, and 497 27 40 2 80 25 60 Commence
Pipes for in Nov. and
Chimneys end in
March.
Book Stitchers 183 678 20 1 00 20 65

Page 614

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Tapestry 14 969 70 1 20 15 70 June, July,
Embroiderers Aug.
Embroiderers 43 3,746 60 3 00 10 $1 00 July, Aug.,
and part of
Jan. and
Feb.
Manufacturers of 2,515 27 45 2 00 25 70 Most active
Bronze in Oct.,
Nov., and
Dec.
Bronze Carvers 752 6 30 1 25 30 .. " " "
Bronze Gilders 343 24 50 1 20 30 55 Oct., Nov.,
Dec.
Bronze Founders 1,178 1 40 1 40 27 .. " " "
Bronze Mounters 32 11 40 0 70 25 70 Sept., Oct.,
and Nov.
Bronze Finishers 333 2 30 1 20 40 .. Oct., Nov.,
and Dec.
Bronze Turners 164 4 30 1 20 30 40 Sept., Oct.,
and Nov.
Bronze Varnishers 168 233 40 1 40 25 $1 00 Oct., Nov.,
Dec.
Makers of 365 163 35 1 00 20 60 Jan., Feb.,
Common Brushes July, Aug.
Makers of Fine 371 421 30 1 20 15 60 " " "
Brushes
Coffee Toasters 37 22 30 1 00 30 40 June, July.
Contractors for 193 45 40 0 80 25 55 Jan., Feb.,
Washrooms and March,
Public Washing April.
Houses
Manufacturers of 24 10 55 1 00 30 50 Jan., Feb.,
Dials for March.
Watchesand
Clocks
Manufacturers of 989 57 40 2 00 25 60 Jan., Feb.,
Mouldings for Gilt and part of
Frames July and
Aug.
Manufacturers of 114 30 33 0 80 25 40 Jan., July.
Cotton Canvas
Cane and Whip 796 84 35 1 40 20 55 Jan., Feb.,
Makers Dec., July.

Page 615

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Cane Chair Seaters 10 169 35 0 80 15 50 Jan., Feb.,
March.
Makers of Gum 259 310 50 1 20 20 60 Jan., Feb.,
Elastic Works June.
Coachmakers 3,685 2 30 1 60 $2 40 a month each and July, Aug.,
boarded. Sept.
Makers of Playing 160 97 45 1 00 20 50 June, July,
Cards Aug.
Manufacturers of 210 121 30 1 30 20 45 Dec., Jan.,
Pasteboard and Feb.
Cards, Glazed
Paper
Manufacturers of 569 1,357 40 1 20 6 70 Jan., Feb.,
Pasteboard Boxes March,
July.
Makers of Men's 81 3,929 30 1 20 10 60 Jan., Feb.,
and Boy's Caps July, Aug.
Manufacturers of 786 1,133 30 1 80 10 60 June, July,
Shawls Aug.
Mounters and 173 1,974 30 2 00 15 $1 00 Work slack
Trimmers of Straw six months,
Hats from June
to Nov.
Weavers of Braid 12 108 50 0 70 20 60 " " "
for Straw Bonnets
Bleachers and 117 101 40 1 40 20 60 July to Jan.
Pressers of Straw
Hats
Hat Makers 2,829 1,158 30 2 40 15 $1 00 July, Aug.,
Jan., Feb.
Meat Sellers 629 72 10 0 80 $30 to $160 per year for June, July,
female accountants. Aug.
Manufacturers of 162 82 30 1 00 20 35 Jan., Feb.,
Articles for March,
Hunting Dec.
Embroiderers of 9 174 60 1 00 25 80 Jan., Feb.,
Church Ornaments and part of
March.
Coppersmith ... .... 1 .. .. .. ..
wife of patron
Makers of Woven 728 1,154 20 0 90 10 50 Dec., July,
and Knit Shoes Aug., and

Page 616

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
part of
March.
Hair Preparers, 678 280 30 1 40 15 60 June, July,
Dressers, Wig Aug.
Makers, &c.
Washers and 27 44 50 0 70 12 40 Dec. and
Assorters of Rags Jan.
Chocolate Makers 266 122 45 1 10 20 55 June, July,
Aug., Sept.
Manufacturers of 86 45 25 0 80 20 40 " " "
Blacking and
Varnish
Manufacturers of 57 23 40 0 80 30 40 July, Aug.
Wafers and Sealing
Wax
Chasers and 330 21 50 1 40 30 $1 20 July, Aug.,
Engravers Jan., Feb.
Makers of Bells 40 2 50 1 20 30 .. Jan., Feb.,
and Clock Bells and part of
March.
Nailmakers 347 33 40 1 40 20 25 Jan., July,
Aug.
Print Colorers 18 626 45 0 70 20 60 " " "
Makers of 1 1,301 .. 1 00 10 80 Jan., Feb.,
Women's Clothing July, Aug.
Confectioners 367 284 40 1 20 20 60 June to
Sept.
Makers of 75 45 30 0 80 20 40 June, July,
Nutritious Aug., Sept.
Conserves
Rope Makers 392 5 15 0 80 25 40 From Dec.
to Feb.
Boot and Shoe 13,553 6,713 15 1 80 8 70 Jan., Feb.,
Makers July, Aug.
Makers of Shoes to 7,511 1,555 20 1 82 12 70 " " "
Order
Curriers 2,170 189 30 2 00 10 30 " " "
Corset Makers 38 2,810 40 1 00 10 80 July, Aug.,
Sept., and
part of Jan.
Costumers 37 47 60 1 00 20 50 June, July,
Aug., Sept.

Page 617

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Makers of Colors 510 12 40 1 10 30 50 Nov., Dec.,
and Varnish Jan., Feb.
Knife Makers 503 39 25 1 60 25 50 July, Aug.
Mantua Makers .. 5,287 .. .. 10 80 July, Aug.,
Jan., Feb.
Makers of Flannels 404 215 30 0 70 $1 00 $1 80 Jan., Feb.,
and Blankets March.
Makers of Crayons 65 21 35 0 90 20 40 " " "
Curd and Cheese 53 30 40 0 60 20 40 Nov., Dec.,
Makers Jan., Feb.
Makers of Horse- 43 68 45 0 90 15 90 Dec., Jan.,
hair Goods Feb.
Dressers and 145 72 40 0 SO 25 50 Dec., Jan.
Liners of Horse
Hair
Manufacturers of 38 8 60 0 70 30 .. Jan., Feb.,
Razor Leather July.
Varnished Leather 175 9 60 1 00 30 40 June, July
Daguerreotypists 34 8 60 1 00 40 .. Jan., Feb.,
March.
Pinkers of Shawls 12 32 45 0 70 20 45 June, July.
and Woven Goods
Makers, Hookers, 1 817 .. 0 70 12 70 June, July,
and Washers of Aug., Sept.
Laces
Makers of 63 20 50 2 00 35 40 July, Aug.,
Artificial Teeth Sept.
Designers for 579 43 50 4 00 .. 40 July, Aug.,
Manufacturers Feb.,
March.
Designers for 173 46 50 2 40 20 50 June, July,
Embroidery Aug.
Manufacturers of 294 13 30 0 90 30 45 July, Aug.,
Distilled Liquors Sept.
and Sirups
Gilders and 442 163 40 2 00 20 50 July, Jan.,
Silverers of Ware Feb.
and Jewelry
Wood Gilders 773 257 40 1 20 20 60 Jan., Feb.,
July, Aug.
Gilders of Edges 95 72 50 1 20 39 .. " " " "
of Paper and
Parchment

Page 618

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Mineral and other 177 12 40 1 20 30 40 Nov. to Feb.
Gaseous Waters Women
make
powders for
gaseous
waters.
Furniture Makers 8,459 90 25 2 00 25 80 Jan., Feb.
Writers and 54 11 70 1 60 20 80 June, July,
Designers for Aug.
Lithographs
Publishers of 356 464 50 2 40 20 60 Jan., Feb.,
Images and July, Aug.
Engravings
Manufacturers and 240 113 40 2 00 30 60 Jan., Feb.,
Painters of March.
Enamelled Ware
Makers of False 19 14 50 1 00 30 50 " " "
Stones and
Enamels
Makers of 93 408 55 2 50 20 40 " " "
Artificial Eyes,
Porcelain Buttons,
& Glass Links
Makers of Writing 85 11 40 0 55 15 40 Jan., Aug.
and Printing Ink
Fancy Inkstands 150 12 50 1 00 12 40
and Toilet Articles
Grocers, 851 24 40 0 90 30 45 June, July,
Manufacturing Aug., Sept.
Makers of Military 1,649 2,254 25 1 40 10 70 Jan., Feb.,
Equipments July.
Embossers 337 74 40 1 60 30 60 Jan., Feb.
Stampers and 220 9 40 1 20 30 40 Jan., Feb.,
Engravers of July, and
Moulds for part of
Goldware & March.
Jewelry
Pewterers 102 17 50 1 00 30 .. Jan., Feb.,
July, Aug.
Fan Makers. There 252 264 40 1 20 12 $1 00 June, July,
are several Aug.
branches

Page 619

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Makers of Chairs 1,673 53 45 1 60 20 60 Jan., Feb.,
and Arm Chairs March.
Makers of Sheet 84 14 40 1 00 25 35 April, May,
Pewter June, July.
Makers of Wax 21 13 70 1 20 25 40 March,
Figures June, July,
Aug.
Spinners, Dressers, 47 113 30 1 00 20 40 Jan., June,
and Twisters of July.
Silk
Spinners and 578 1,334 35 1 00 18 45 Jan., July,
Twisters of Cotton Aug.
Spinners and 445 452 50 1 20 14 60 April, May,
Twisters of Wool June.
Makers of 414 5,063 40 1 20 12 80 June, July,
Artificial Flowers Aug., Jan.
Metal Melters 1,785 4 60 2 30 40 .. Jan., Feb.
Suet and Tallow 80 3 50 1 40 25 30 From a
Melters month to
six weeks in
summer.
Melters and 624 133 50 2 00 25 50 Aug., Sept.
Engravers of
Stamps and Metal
Plates
Block Makers 130 21 50 0 90 25 50 July, Aug.,
Sept.
Fur Dealers and 232 399 50 1 80 12 60 Mar., April,
Dressers May, June,
July, & part
of Aug.
Old Clothes .. 50 .. .. 12 60 Jan., Feb.,
Women March,
Aug.
Sheath Makers 341 70 30 1 20 20 50 July, Aug.,
Jan.
Makers of Kid 1,045 873 40 1 20 15 50 June, July,
Gloves Aug., Sept.
Makers of Cloth 19 203 40 1 00 8 60 June, July,
Gloves Aug.
Stampers and 136 39 40 2 40 20 60 June, July,
Printers of Stuffs Aug., Jan.,
and Garments Feb.

Page 620

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Gelatine and Glue 78 35 .. 0 60 20 35 Jan., Feb.,
Makers Nov., Dec.
Makers of Cloth 751 369 20 1 20 20 40 April, Aug.,
for Under Vests Sept., Jan.
Carvers and Gem 165 17 60 1 60 35 60 Jan., Feb.,
Engravers and parts of
July and
Aug.
Mould Engravers 68 10 60 1 40 .. 30 Jan., Feb.
Copper Plate 226 62 60 2 00 25 70 July, Aug.
Engravers
Engravers on 160 6 60 2 00 60 $1 00 Jan., Feb.
Wood and on
Metal for Printing
Engravers on 154 11 40 1 10 .. 30 July, Aug.,
Wood for Sept.
Impressions on
Stuff and Printed
Papers
Engravers on 205 7 30 1 60 40 70 June, July,
Metals for Seals Aug.
and Clocks
Legging Makers 73 206 40 1 00 20 60 Aug., Sept.
Makers of Clocks 1,826 155 35 2 50 12 $1 00 June, July,
and Clock Aug.
Trimmings
Lithographic and 1,909 186 30 7 00 20 60 June, July,
Copperplate Aug., Sept.
Printers
Cloth Printers 316 45 40 2 00 25 55 " " " "
Type Printers 4,053 304 60 3 00 10 80 " " " "
Makers of Surgical 247 14 40 1 40 40 .. Jan., Feb.,
Instruments Sept.
Makers of Musical 71 4 50 1 10 30 70 Business
Wind Instruments most active
in Oct.,
Nov.
Copper Musical 461 1 45 1 60 55 .. Slack in
Instruments June, July,
Aug., Sept.
Makers of False 192 26 50 2 00 30 80 July, Jan.,
Jewels Feb.

Page 621

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Makers of Fine 416 65 20 2 50 35 $1 00 June, July,
Jewels Aug.
Makers of Lamps 1,856 24 40 1 60 25 60 May, June,
July, Aug.
Makers of Coach 142 6 50 1 40 30 50 July, Aug.
Lamps
Lapidaries 112 10 60 1 40 25 35 Jan., Feb.,
March,
July.
Box Makers and 1,089 2 20 1 20 30 .. " " " "
Packers
Makers of Letters 95 7 55 1 20 30 40 Dec., Jan.
in Relief
Cork Makers 159 53 50 1 00 20 40 Dec., Jan.,
Feb.
File Makers 418 10 60 2 40 25 60 Jan.
Contractors for 80 8,974 45 1 10 3 80 July, Aug,
Linen Drapery Jan., Feb.
Manufacturers of 80 2,312 .. .. 12 80 Jan., Feb.,
Linen Drapery July, Aug.
Design Readers 121 99 50 1 00 30 70 June, July,
Aug., Jan.
Makers of Bed 257 410 40 1 20 16 80 Dec., Jan.,
Clothing Feb.,
March.
Makers of 336 44 40 1 20 12 60 Jan., Feb.,
Spectacle Frames July.
Trunk Makers 210 73 40 1 20 20 60 Dec., Jan.,
Feb.,
March.
Cutters of Marble 574 45 80 1 20 20 60 Jan., Feb.,
for Furniture March
Cutters of Marble 933 23 50 1 60 30 40 Jan., Feb.,
for Buildings Dec.
Horse Farriers 346 2 30 1 30 30 .. June, July,
Aug., Sept.
Veneerers and 306 34 40 1 40 30 50 Jan., Feb.,
Carvers July, Aug.
Alum Leather 164 1 40 0 80 .. ..
Dressers
Looms for 176 21 50 1 20 25 30 July, Aug.,
Weaving Jan.

Page 622

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Trellis Makers 50 3 40 1 00
Wives of patrons
Looking-Glass 515 96 40 1 40 20 55 Jan., Feb.,
Makers March.
Milliners 24 2,354 50 0 90 20 $1 00 July, Aug.,
Sept., Feb.
Makers of Watch 57 20 20 1 00 25 60 June, July,
Cases Aug.
Makers of Mosaic 51 2 50 1 30 .. $1 00 June, July,
Work and part of
Aug.
Plaster and 155 4 30 1 20 .. 30 Jan., Feb.,
Composition July, Aug.
Moulders
Makers of 266 3 60 1 70 .. 30 Jan., Feb.
Mouldings, Copper
Pipes, and Show
Cases
Makers of Eyelet 223 85 35 1 20 15 40 Jan., Feb.,
Holes, Percussion July.
Caps, Pen Holders,
&c.
Makers of 1,634 101 40 3 20 30 40 Jan., Feb.,
Instruments of July, Aug.
Precision and
Spectacles
Makers of Silver- 544 59 40 2 00 25 60 July, Aug.,
Plated Ware Sept.
Makers of Silver 328 81 40 1 30 30 70 Jan., Feb.,
Trinkets and July, Aug.
Jewelry
Manufacturers of 541 188 40 1 60 28 60 July, Aug.,
Gold Plate and part of
Jan. and
Feb.
Organ 401 2 40 2 00 .. ..
Manufacturers ...
Wives of patrons
Wadding Makers 104 122 25 0 90 20 40 Commences
in Feb.,
ends in
July.

Page 623

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Mat Makers 57 91 30 0 90 8 35 Commences
in May,
ends in
Sept.
Makers of Paper 40 120 30 0 90 10 45 Jan., July,
Bags, &c. Aug.
Makers of Fancy 114 129 50 1 20 20 30 Dec., Jan.,
Papers Feb.
Makers of Wall 1,855 93 30 2 00 20 60 June, July,
Paper Aug., and
part of Sept.
Makers of Parasols 601 742 40 1 20 20 60 July, Sept.,
and Umbrellas Jan., Feb.
Perfumers 349 366 30 2 00 15 60 July, Aug.,
Sept.
Makers of Lace 2,545 6,046 20 1 20 5 80 Jan., Feb.,
Embroidery July, Aug.
Novelty 1,142 2,331 20 1 20 8 80 " " " "
Embroiderers
Embroiderers for 473 941 30 1 00 12 60 July, Aug.,
Furniture Jan., Feb.
Chenille 37 69 40 0 90 30 80 Jan., Feb.,
Embroiderers March.
Military 160 589 25 0 80 10 40 July, Aug.,
Embroiderers and part of
Jan. and
Feb.
Furniture and 198 114 30 1 00 12 50 July, Aug.,
Coach and Jan.
Embroiderers
False and Fine 108 387 35 0 90 25 70 July, Aug.,
Embroiderers Jan., Feb.
Embroiderers of 367 1,615 25 1 00 5 50 Jan., Feb.,
Braces and Garters July.
Makers of 92 59 45 1 40 25 60 June, July,
Nutritious Pastry Aug., Sept.
Pastry Cooks 973 60 20 1 10 30 45 " " " "
Skinners and 644 15 40 1 20 25 30 July, Aug.,
Morocco Dressers Jan.
Makers of Articles 0 25 30 1 00 20 50 Jan., Feb.,
for Fishing Oct., Nov.,
Dec.

Page 624

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Comb 585 210 40 1 20 15 70 Jan., Feb.,
Manufacturers July.
Wool Combers 694 194 30 1 00 25 35 April, May.
House Painters 5,213 15 30 2 00 25 40 Jan., Feb.,
Nov., Dec.
Manufacturers of 202 63 25 0 80 15 40 Jan., Feb.
Plush
Makers of False 56 154 60 2 00 20 40 Jan., Feb.,
Pearls and Pearl and part of
Flowers Dec.
Stringers and .... 52 .. .. 15 40 Jan., Feb.,
Mounters of Pearls and part of
March.
Makers of Painters' 114 129 50 1 20 20 30 Dec., Jan.,
Pencils and Feb.
Brushes
Polishers of Gold 52 4 30 1 40 30 .. Jan., Feb.,
& Daguerreotypes part of July
and Aug.
Plaiters and 170 492 30 0 60 10 35 Jan., Feb.,
Winders of Cotton, July.
Wool, and
Cashmere
Plaiters and 44 277 40 1 00 15 50 July, Aug.,
Winders of silk Jan.
Plumbers, Pump, 1,014 2 40 1 40 .. .. Dec., Jan.,
& Fountain Feb.
Makers Wives of
patrons
Feather Dressers 78 533 40 1 00 20 60 Jan., July.
Makers of Feather 120 28 50 1 20 30 40 July, Jan.,
Brooms Feb.
Makers of Quill 55 44 50 1 40 15 50 June, July,
Pens Aug.
Cutters and 91 505 40 1 20 15 50 Dec., Jan.,
Preparers of Hair Feb.
for Hatters
Polishers and 23 284 50 0 90 15 65 Jan, Feb.,
Burnishers of Gold July, Aug.
and Jewelry
Decorators of 1,641 1,010 40 2 40 20 $4 00 Jan., Feb.,
Porcelain part of
March.

Page 625

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Makers, Moulders, 155 9 50 3 00 30 50 June, July,
Polishers, and Aug.
Menders of
Porcelain
Portfolios and 506 307 25 1 30 20 55 Jan., Feb.,
Articles of July.
Morocco
Makers of Articles 330 20 25 1 60 25 40 July, Aug.,
of Earthenware, Jan., Feb.
Stoneware, and
China
Pewterers 337 84 40 1 20 20 40 Jan., Feb.
Preparers of 15 20 60 1 20 12 60 June, July,
Animals Aug.
Makers of 138 20 60 1 10 25 30 Dec., Jan.,
Chemical Products Feb.
Makers of 108 75 85 1 00 20 55 July, Aug.
Pharmaceutical
Products
Makers of 226 5 30 1 00 25 .. Jan., Feb.,
Ironware Articles July, Aug.
Refiners of Sugar 425 5 30 1 20 30 .. About six
weeks work
is slack.
Makers of 43 123 60 1 20 20 50 June, July,
Registers Aug.
Makers of Rulers, 39 12 60 1 00 35 60 Dec., Jan.,
Easels, &c. Feb.
Paper Rulers 35 143 30 0 70 30 50 June, July,
Aug.
Bookbinders 939 807 25 1 20 20 60 June, July,
Aug., Sept.
Borers of Jewelry .. 30 .. .. 20 50 Jan., Feb.,
March,
July.
Ribbon Makers 19 30 60 0 70 35 45 Jan., Feb,
and part of
July.
Makers of Wooden 60 34 50 1 00 15 40 March,
Shoes May, June,
July, Aug,
Sept.

Page 626

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Ebony Sculptors 471 3 40 1 60 25 60 Jan., Feb,
(for Furniture) March.
Modern Sculptors 448 15 40 2 00 30 40 Jan., Feb.,
in Bronze some
report.
Others say,
July, Aug.
Wood Carvers 424 39 30 1 40 30 45 June, July,
Aug.
Saddle and 1,347 142 30 1 20 12 40 Dec., Jan.,
Harness Makers July, Aug.
and Furnishers
Saddle Belts and 124 80 40 1 00 15 50 Jan., Feb.,
Girdles Dec.
Saddle Spurs, 447 28 40 1 60 20 50 Three
Plates, and months,
Ironware for part in
Harnesses, &c. winter and
part in
summer.
Mechanical 959 16 30 1 40 30 40 Jan., Feb.
Locksmiths
Locks for 760 7 60 1 40 20 50 ""
Furniture
Settings for Jewels 46 2 50 1 20 .. .. July, Aug.,
... Wives of patrons Jan., Feb.
Makers of Spar 10 63 50 0 60 8 40 Dec., Jan.,
Ornaments Feb.
Makers of Coach 118 11 40 3 00 20 40 " " "
Blinds
Makers of 184 11 40 1 20 25 30 Dec., Jan.
Tinctures
Toy Manufacturers 1,404 174 30 1 40 15 70 Jan., Feb.,
July.
Makers of Toy 264 6 40 1 20 15 25 June, July,
Umbrellas Aug, Jan.
Edge Tool Makers 854 2 30 1 40 .. 40 Jan., Feb.,
July, Aug.
Tailors 11,066 10,769 15 1 60 10 90 July, Aug.,
Jan., Feb.
Tailors who work 6,660 2,947 30 1 60 10 90 1st July to
by Measure middle of
Sept., and

Page 627

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
1st Jan. to
middle of
March.
Carpet Clippers 20 15 50 80 30 35 Feb.,
and Drawers March.
Upholsterers 1,832 1,797 40 3 00 15 70 June, July,
Aug., Sept.
Dyers of Thread 149 20 40 1 10 30 60 July, Aug.
and Woven Goods
Dyers, Scourers 523 510 40 1 20 20 $1 00 Jan., Feb.,
July, Aug.
Dyers of Skins for 149 20 40 1 10 30 60 July, Aug.
Gloves
Makers of Cloths 462 431 30 1 20 7 40 July, Jan.
for Robes, Buttons,
Furniture
Makers of Oil 144 30 30 1 40 25 40 Feb., and
Paper and Cloth part of Jan.
Metal Varnishers, 300 111 40 1 40 20 40 Dec., Jan.,
Painters, Gilders, Feb.,
and Silverers March.
Constructors and 357 86 35 2 00 15 30 Jan., Feb.,
Decorators of Dec.
Tombs
Metal Turners 646 12 40 1 20 36 .. Jan., Feb.,
Mar, and
part of July.
Wood Turners 361 7 25 1 10 30 """""
Turners of Wood 316 11 30 1 00 30 60 Jan., Feb.,
Furniture March.
Chair Turners 665 234 30 1 20 15 50 " " "
Makers of Metal 411 43 60 1 80 25 60 Jan., Feb.
Traps
Seamless Bags of 20 29 30 0 70 20 35 Jan., Aug.,
Hemp and Flax Sept.
Basket Makers 231 27 18 1 20 30 40 Dec., Jan.,
Feb., and
part of Aug.
Glass Blowers 76 6 30 1 00 .. 40 Jan., Feb.,
March.
Painters and 103 35 30 2 00A 20 50 " " "
Gilders of Glass

Page 628

Minimum Maximum
Minimum Maximum of of Months
Numbe Numbe of Men's of Men's Women's Women's when
r of r of Wages Wages Wages Wages Work is
OCCUPATIONS. Men. Women. per Day. per Day. per Day. per Day. slack.
cents $ cts cents cents
Glass and Crystal 327 8 60 2 00 25 40 July, Aug.,
Cutters, Engravers Jan.
and Polishers
Makers of Glass 13 90 60 1 00 20 40 Jan., Feb.,
Beads March.
Vinegar Makers 60 3 40 0 90 30 .. One has
$80 per
annum,
board and
lodging.
June, July,
Aug.
Makers of 296 356 40 1 40 10 50 July, Aug.,
Morocco for Hats, Jan., Feb.
&c.

A Some, employed in painting church windows, get $2.

REMARKS ON PRECEDING TABLES.

Employed in the thirteen groups of industrials, 112,891 women; 7,851 girls, of whom 869 were under 12
—rest from 12 to 16. To every two men employed, one woman. Women more numerous than men in the
manufacture of garments and materials for them. None employed in the laborious occupations. Equal in
fancy wares. Highest wages of women per day, 20 francs, least 15 centimes—average, 1 franc 63 centimes.
950 women's salaries less than 60 centimes.
626 " higher than 3 francs.
The bulk, or 100,050 " range between the two extremes.
Extremely low salaries are exceptional. Thus only two were so low as 15 centimes, and one of these
workers was aged sixty-eight, and the other seventy-one. Women's wages are rather over half what the
wages of men are.B

B 5 centimes are equal to about one cent of our money, and a franc is equal to about 20 cents.

Page 629

THE END.

Transcriber's notes:
In "By giving a suitable notice to the overseer, it is so arranged that the help can be absent from their
work one day or a month." or was changed into of.

In "Another lady told me that in pattern making she gives instruction two months, paying nothing, but
then they can earn $2.50, and, as they become more expert, can earn $3, $3.50, and $4.", $ was added
before the figure of 3.50.

The name of the inventor of the knitting machine mentioned several times in this book (Mr. Aiken) was
spelled "Aikens" on occasion; this was corrected except in the one instance which was a quotation from
another document.

In "In the department of Sonne, France, women alone have the right to go into the fields", Sonne was
changed into Somme.

In "Many of the young Swabian girls of thirteen or fourteen years old are sent to Stuttgard", Stuttgard was
changed into Stuttgart.
There are many opening or closing quotation marks missing in the text. As in most instances, it is
impossible to say where the quotation was meant to begin or end, those errors have not been corrected.
Only in the following two instances were quotation marks removed:

In >"Mrs. B., who has been twenty-three years carrying on the business on Broadway, says "she has
applications constantly, but finds it difficult to obtain competent workmen."<, opening quotation
mark before Mrs. B. (lacking a closing quotation mark, and since text indicates only indirect
quotation) was removed.

In >The war department, about two years ago, closed a contract with S., of Philadelphia, to furnish
sixteen thousand felt hats for the army, at $2.75 each."<, closing quotation mark was removed as
erroneous.

"Employee/s" is found in various different spellings throughout the book; this inconsistency has been
retained.

Page 630

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