The Cultivation of The Native Grape_ and Manufacture of American Wines George Husmann 1008 downloads.pdf

The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Cultivation of The Native
Grape, and Manufacture of American Wines
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will
have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using
this eBook.

Title: The Cultivation of The Native Grape, and Manufacture of American
Wines

Author: George Husmann

Release date: March 27, 2007 [eBook #20917]

Language: English

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/20917

Credits: Produced by Steven Giacomelli and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images produced by Core Historical Literature
in Agriculture (CHLA), Cornell University)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE
CULTIVATION OF THE NATIVE GRAPE, AND MANUFACTURE OF
AMERICAN WINES ***

THE CULTIVATION OF THE
NATIVE GRAPE,
AND
MANUFACTURE OF
AMERICAN WINES.

By

GEORGE HUSMANN,

OF HERMANN, MISSOURI.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866,
by GEO. E. & F. W. WOODWARD,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States,
for the Southern District of New York.

TO THE
GRAPE GROWERS OF
"OUR COUNTRY, ONE AND INDIVISIBLE,"
THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED
BY THEIR
FRIEND AND FELLOW-LABORER,
THE AUTHOR.

INDEX.

Page

Introduction9

GRAPE CULTURE.

Remarks on its History in America, especially at the West; its Progress
and its Future,13

PROPAGATION OF THE VINE.

I.—From Seed27
II.—By Single Eyes30
The Propagating House31
Mode of Operating32
III.—By Cuttings in Open Air37
IV.—By Layering39
V.—By Grafting40

THE VINEYARD.

Location and Soil43
Preparing the Soil45

WHAT SHALL WE PLANT?

Choice of Varieties47
The Concord48
Norton's Virginia48
Herbemont49
Delaware49
Hartford Prolific49

Clinton50

PLANTING.

Planting.51
Treatment of the Vine the First Summer56
Treatment of the Vine the Second Summer57
Treatment of the Vine the Third Summer63
Treatment of the Vine the Fourth Summer69
Training the Vines on Arbors and Walls71
Other Methods of Training the Vine75
Diseases of the Vine78
Insects Injurious to the Grape80
Birds84
Frosts85
Girdling the Vine to Hasten Maturity86
Manuring the Vine91
Thinning of the Fruit91
Renewing Old Vines92
Pruning Saws93
Preserving the Fruit95
Gathering the Fruit to Make Wine96

VARIETIES OF GRAPES.

CLASS I.—VARIETIES MOST GENERALLY USED.

Concord (Description)97
Concord (Plate)111
Norton's Virginia (Description)98
Norton's Virginia (Plate)87
Herbemont (Plate)99
Herbemont (Description)101
Hartford Prolific (Description)101
Hartford Prolific (Plate)105
Clinton102

Delaware (Description)102
Delaware (Plate)81

CLASS II.—HEALTHY VARIETIES PROMISING WELL.

Cynthiana103
Arkansas104
Taylor104
Martha107
Maxatawney (Description)107
Maxatawney (Plate)177
Rogers' Hybrid, No. 1107
Creveling (Description)108
Creveling (Plate)117
North Carolina Seedling108
Cunningham109
Rulander109
Louisiana110
Alvey110
Cassady110
Blood's Black113
Union Village (Description)113
Union Village (Plate)167
Perkins113
Clara (Description)114
Clara (Plate)127
Ive's Seedling114

CLASS III.—HEALTHY VARIETIES—BUT INFERIOR IN QUALITY.

Minor Seedling116
Mary Ann119
Northern Muscadine119
Logan119
Brown119
Hyde's Eliza119

Marion Port120
Poeschel's Mammoth120
Cape120
Dracut Amber120
Elsinburgh120
Garber's Albino121
Franklin121
Lenoir121
North America121

CLASS IV.—VARIETIES OF GOOD QUALITY, BUT SUBJECT TO
DISEASE.

Catawba121
Diana122
Isabella122
Garrigues123
Tokalon123
Anna123
Allen's Hybrid123
Cuyahoga123
Devereux124
Kingsessing124
Rogers' Hybrid, No. 15124

CLASS V.—VARIETIES UNWORTHY OF CULTIVATION.

Oporto124
Massachusetts White125

WINE MAKING.

Gathering the Grapes131
The Wine Cellar133
Apparatus for Wine Making.—The Grape Mill and Press136

Fermenting Vats137
The Wine Casks138
Making the Wine140
After Treatment of the Wine146
Diseases of the Wine and their Remedies147
Treatment of flat and Turbid Wine147
Use of the Husks and Lees148
Dr. Gall's and Petoil's Method of Wine Making148
The Must Scale or Saccharometer150
The Acidimeter and Its Use151
The Change of the Must, by Fermentation, into Wine157
Normal Must161
The Must of American Grapes162
Wine Making Made Easy173

STATISTICS.

Cost of Establishing A Vineyard179
Cost of an acre of Concord179
Cost of an acre of Herbemont179
Cost of an acre of Norton's Virginia180
Cost of an acre of Delaware180
Cost of an acre of Catawba180
Product181
Produce Fifth Year182
Yield of Mr. Michael Poeschel's Vineyard184
New Vineyard of Mr. M. Poeschel, Planted in 1861;
First Partial Crop, 1863; Second Crop, 1864; Third Crop, 1865,184,
185
Yield of Vineyard of Mr. William Poeschel, 1857, 1858, 1859,
1860185
Yield of Vineyard of Mr. William Poeschel, 1861, 1862, 1863,
1864186
Yield of Vineyard of Mr. William Poeschel 1865187
Yield of Delaware Vineyard of John E. Mottier189

INTRODUCTION

It is with a great deal of hesitation I undertake to write a book about
Grapes, a subject which has been, and still is, elucidated every day; and
about which we have already several works, which no doubt are more
learned, more elaborate, than anything I may produce. But the subject is of
such vast importance, and the area suitable for grape culture so large, the
diversity of soil and climate so great, that I may be pardoned if I still think
that I could be of some use to the beginner; it is for them, and not for my
brethren of the craft more learned than I am, that I write. If they can learn
anything from the plain talk of a practical worker, to help them along in the
good work, I am well repaid.

Another object I have in view is to make grape growing as easy as
possible; and I may be pardoned if I say that, in my opinion, it is a defect in
all books we have on grape culture, that the manner of preparing the soil,
training, etc., are on too costly a plan to be followed by men of little means.
If we are first to trench and prepare the soil, at a cost of about $300 per
acre, and then pay $200 more for trellis, labor, etc., the poor man, he who
must work for a living, can not afford to raise grapes. And yet it is from the
ranks of these sturdy sons of toil that I would gain my recruits for that
peaceful army whose sword is the pruning-hook; it is from their honest,
hard-working hands I expect the grandest results. He who has already
wealth enough at command can of course afford to raise grapes with bone-
dust, ashes, and all the fertilizers. He can walk around and give his orders,
making grape culture an elegant pastime for his leisure hours, as well as a
source of profit. But, being one of the first class myself, I had to fight my
way up through untold difficulties from the lowest round of the ladder; had
to gain what knowledge I possess from dear experience, and can therefore
sympathize with those who must commence without means. It is my earnest
desire to save them some of the losses which I had to suffer, to lighten their

toil by a little plain advice. If I can succeed in this, my object is
accomplished.

In nearly all our books on grape culture I notice another defect, especially
in those published in the East; it is, that they contain a great deal of good
advice about grape culture, but very little about wine-making, and the
treatment of wine in the cellar. For us here at the West this is an all-
important point, and even our Eastern friends, if they continue to plant
grapes at the rate they have done for the last few years, will soon glut the
market, and will be forced to make them into wine. I shall therefore try to
give such simple instructions about wine-making and its management as
will enable every one to make a good saleable and drinkable wine, better
than nine-tenths of the foreign wines, which are now sold at two to three
dollars per bottle. I firmly believe that this continent is destined to be the
greatest wine-producing country in the world; and that the time is not far
distant when wine, the most wholesome and purest of all stimulating drinks,
will be within the reach of the common laborer, and take the place of the
noxious and poisonous liquors which are now the curse of so many of our
laboring men, and have blighted the happiness of so many homes. Pure
light wine I consider the best temperance agent; but as long as bad whisky
and brandy continue to be the common drink of its citizens we can not hope
to accomplish a thorough reform; for human nature seems to crave and need
a stimulant. Let us then try to supply the most innocent and healthy one, the
exhilarating juice of the grape.

I have also endeavored throughout to give plain facts, to substantiate with
plain figures all I assert; and in no case have I allowed fancy to roam in idle
speculations which cannot be demonstrated in practice. I do not pretend that
my effort is "the most comprehensive and practical essay on the grape," as
some of our friends call their productions, but I can claim for it strict
adherence to truth and actual results.

I have not thought it necessary to give the botanical description of the
grape-vine, and the process of hybridizing, etc.; this has already been so
well and thoroughly done by my friend Fuller, that I can do no better than
refer the scientific reader to his book. I am writing more for the practical

farmer, and would rather fill what I think a vacancy, than repeat what has
been so well said by others.

With these few remarks, which I thought due to the public and myself, I
leave it to you, brother-winegrowers, to say whether or not I have
accomplished my task. To all and every one who plants a single vine I
would extend the hand of good fellowship, for he is a laborer in the great
work to cover this glorious land of the free with smiling vineyards, and to
make its barren spots flow with noble grape juice, one of the best gifts of an
all-bountiful Creator. All hail to you, I greet you from Free Missouri.

GRAPE CULTURE

REMARKS ON ITS HISTORY IN AMERICA, ESPECIALLY AT
THE WEST—ITS PROGRESS AND ITS FUTURE.

In an old chronicle, entitled, "The Discovery of America in the Tenth
Century," by Charles C. Prasta, published at Stralsund, we find the
following legend:

"Leif, son of Eric the Red, bought Byarnes' vessel, and manned it with
thirty-five men, among whom was also a German, Tyrker by name, who
had lived a long time with Leif's father, who had become very much
attached to him in youth. And they left port at Iceland, in the year of our
Lord 1000.

But, when they had been at sea several days, a tremendous storm arose,
whose wild fury made the waves swell mountain high, and threatened to
destroy the frail vessel. And the storm continued for several days, and
increased in fury, so that even the stoutest heart quaked with fear; they
believed that their hour had come, and drifted along at the mercy of wind
and waves. Only Leif, who had lately been converted to Christ our Lord,
stood calmly at the helm and did not fear; but called on Him who had
walked the water and quieted the billows, with firm faith, that He also had
power to deliver them, if they but trusted in Him. And, behold! while he
still spoke to them of the wonderful deeds of the Lord, the clouds cleared
away, the storm lulled; and after a few hours the sea, calmed down, and
rocked the tired and exhausted men into a deep and calm sleep. And when
they awoke, the next morning, they could hardly trust their eyes. A beautiful
country lay before them, green hills, covered with beautiful forests—a

majestic stream rolled its billows into the ocean; and they cast the anchor,
and thanked the Lord, who had delivered them from death.

A delightful country it seemed, full of game, and birds of beautiful
plumage; and when they went ashore, they could not resist the temptation to
explore it. When they returned, after several hours, Tyrker alone was
missing. After waiting some time for his return, Leif, with twelve of his
men, went in search of him. But they had not gone far, when they met him,
laden down with grapes. Upon their enquiry, where he had stayed so long,
he answered: "I did not go far, when I found the trees all covered with
grapes; and as I was born in a country, whose hills are covered with
vineyards, it seemed so much like home to me, that I stayed a while and
gathered them." They had now a twofold occupation, to cut timber, and
gather grapes; with the latter, they loaded the boat. And Leif gave a name to
the country, and called it Vinland, or Wineland."

So far the tradition. It is said that coming events cast their shadows
before them. If this is so, may we not recognize one of those shadows in the
old Norman legend of events which transpired more than eight hundred
years ago? Is it not the foreshadowing of the destiny of this great continent,
to become, in truth and verity, a Wineland. Truly, the results of to-day
would certainly justify us in the assertion, that there is as much, nay more,
truth than fiction in it. Let us take a glance at the first commencement of
grape culture, and see what has been the progress in this comparatively new
branch of horticulture.

From the very first settlement of America, the vine seems to have
attracted the attention of the colonists, and it is said that as early as 1564,
wine was made from the native grape in Florida. The earliest attempt to
establish a vineyard in the British North American Colonies was by the
London Company in Virginia, about the year 1620; and by 1630, the
prospect seems to have been encouraging enough to warrant the importation
of several French vine-dressers, who, it is said, ruined the vines by bad
treatment. Wine was also made in Virginia in 1647, and in 1651 premiums
were offered for its production. Beverly even mentions, that prior to 1722,
there were vineyards in that colony, producing seven hundred and fifty
gallons per year. In 1664, Colonel Richard Nicoll, Governor of New York,

granted to Paul Richards, a privilege of making and selling wine free of all
duty, he having been the first to enter upon the cultivation of the vine on a
large scale. Beauchamp Plantagenet, in his description of the province of
New Albion, published in London, in 1648, states "that the English settlers
in Uvedale, now Delaware, had vines running on mulberry and sassafras
trees; and enumerates four kinds of grapes, namely: Thoulouse Muscat,
Sweet Scented, Great Fox, and Thick Grape; the first two, after five months,
being boiled and salted and well fined, make a strong red Xeres; the third, a
light claret; the fourth, a white grape which creeps on the land, makes a
pure, gold colored wine. Tennis Pale, a Frenchman, out of these four, made
eight sorts of excellent wine; and says of the Muscat, after it had been long
boiled, that the second draught will intoxicate after four months old; and
that here may be gathered and made two hundred tuns in the vintage
months, and that the vines with good cultivation will mend." In 1633,
William Penn attempted to establish a vineyard near Philadelphia, but
without success. After some years, however, Mr. Tasker, of Maryland, and
Mr. Antil, of Shrewsbury, N.J., seem to have succeeded to a certain extent.
It seems, however, from an article which Mr. Antil wrote of the culture of
the grape, and the manufacture of wine, that he cultivated only foreign
varieties.

In 1796, the French settlers in Illinois made one hundred and ten
hogsheads of strong wine from native grapes. At Harmony, near Pittsburgh,
a vineyard of ten acres was planted by Frederic Rapp, and his associates
from Germany; and they continued to cultivate grapes and silk, after their
removal to another Harmony in Indiana.

In 1790, a Swiss colony was founded, and a fund of ten thousand dollars
raised in Jessamine county, Kentucky, for the purpose of establishing a
vineyard, but failed, as they attempted to plant the foreign vine. In 1801,
they removed to a spot, which they called Vevay, in Switzerland County,
Indiana, on the Ohio, forty-five miles below Cincinnati. Here they planted
native vines, especially the Cape, or Schuylkill Muscadel, and met with
better success. But, after about forty years' experience, they seem to have
become discouraged, and their vineyards have now almost disappeared.

These were the first crude experiments in American grape culture; and
from some cause or another, they seem not to have been encouraging
enough to warrant their continuation. But a new impetus was given to this
branch of industry, by the introduction of the Catawba, by Major Adlum, of
Georgetown, D.C., who thought, that by so doing, he conferred a greater
benefit upon the nation than he would have done, had he paid the national
debt. It seems to have been planted first on an extensive scale by Nicholas
Longworth, near Cincinnati, whom we may justly call one of the founders
of American grape culture. He adopted the system of leasing parcels of
unimproved land to poor Germans, to plant with vines; for a share, I
believe, of one-half of the proceeds. It was his ambition to make the Ohio
the Rhine of America, and he has certainly done a good deal to effect it. In
1858, the whole number of acres planted in grapes around Cincinnati, was
estimated, by a committee appointed for that purpose, at twelve hundred
acres, of which Mr. Longworth owned one hundred and twenty-two and a
half acres, under charge of twenty-seven tenants. The annual produce was
estimated by the committee at no less than two hundred and forty thousand
gallons, worth about as many dollars then. We may safely estimate the
number of acres in cultivation there now, at two thousand. Among the
principal grape growers there, I will mention Messrs. Robert Buchanan,
author of an excellent work on grape culture, Mottier, Bogen, Werk,
Rehfuss, Dr. Mosher, etc.

Well do I remember, when I was a boy, some fourteen years old, how
often my father would enter into conversation with vintners from the old
country, about the feasibility of grape culture in Missouri. He always
contended that grapes should succeed well here, as the woods were full of
wild grapes, some of very fair quality, and that this would indicate a soil
and climate favorable to the vine. They would ridicule the idea, and assert
that labor was too high here, even if the vines would succeed, to make it
pay; but they could not shake his faith in the ultimate success of grape
culture. Alas! he lived only long enough to see the first dawnings of that
glorious future which he had so often anticipated, and none entered with
more genuine zeal upon the occupation than he, when an untimely death
took him from the labor he loved so well, and did not even allow him to
taste the first fruits of the vines he had planted and fostered. Had he been
spared until now, his most sanguine hopes would be verified.

I also well remember the first cultivated grape vine which produced fruit
in Hermann. It was an Isabella, planted by a Mr. Fugger, on the corner of
Main and Schiller streets, and trained over an arbor. It produced the first
crop in 1845, twenty years ago, and so plentifully did it bear, that several
persons were encouraged by this apparent success, to plant vines. In 1846,
the first wine was made here, and agreeably surprised all who tried it, by its
good quality. The Catawba had during that time, been imported from
Cincinnati, and the first partial crop from it, in 1848, was so plentiful, that
every body, almost, commenced planting vines, and often in very
unfavorable localities. This, of course, had a bad influence on so capricious
a variety as the Catawba; rot and mildew appeared, and many became
discouraged, because they did not realize what they had anticipated. A
number of unfavorable seasons brought grape growing almost to a stand
still here. Some of our most enterprising grape growers still persevered, and
succeeded by careful treatment, in making even the Catawba pay very
handsome returns.

It was about this time, that the attention of some of our grape-growers
was drawn towards a small, insignificant looking grape, which had been
obtained by a Mr. Wiedersprecker from Mr. Heinrichs, who had brought it
from Cincinnati, and, almost at the same time, by Dr. Kehr, who had
brought it with him from Virginia. The vine seemed a rough customer, and
its fruit very insignificant when compared with the large bunch and berry of
the Catawba, but we soon observed that it kept its foliage bright and green
when that of the Catawba became sickly and dropped; and also, that no rot
or mildew damaged the fruit, when that of the Catawba was nearly
destroyed by it. A few tried to propagate it by cuttings, but generally failed
to make it grow. They then resorted to grafting and layering, with much
better success. After a few years a few bottles of wine were made from it,
and found to be very good. But at this time it almost received its death-
blow, by a very unfavorable letter from Mr. Longworth, who had been
asked his opinion of it, and pronounced it worthless. Of course, with the
majority, the fiat of Mr. Longworth, the father of American grape-culture,
was conclusive evidence, and they abandoned it. Not all, however; a few
persevered, among them Messrs. Jacob Rommel, Poeschel, Langendoerfer,
Grein, and myself. We thought Mr. Longworth was human, and might be
mistaken; and trusted as much to the evidence of our senses as to his

verdict, therefore increased it as fast as we could, and the sequel proved that
we were right. After a few years more wine was made from it in larger
quantities, found to be much better than the first imperfect samples; and
now that despised and condemned grape is the great variety for red wine,
equal, if not superior to, the best Burgundy and Port; a wine of which good
judges, heavy importers of the best European wines too, will tell you that it
has not its equal among all the foreign red wines; which has already saved
the lives of thousands of suffering children, men, and women, and therefore
one of the greatest blessings an all-merciful God has ever bestowed upon
suffering humanity. This despised grape is now the rage, and 500,000 of the
plants could have been sold from this place alone the last fall, if they could
have been obtained. Need I name it? it is the Norton's Virginia. Truly, "great
oaks from little acorns grow!" and I boldly prophecy to-day that the time is
not far distant when thousands upon thousands of our hillsides will be
covered with its luxuriant foliage, and its purple juice become one of the
exports to Europe; provided, always, that we do not grow so fond of it as to
drink it all. I think that this is pre-eminently a Missouri grape. Here it seems
to have found the soil in which it flourishes best. I have seen it in Ohio, but
it does not look there as if it was the same grape. And why should it? They
drove it from them and discarded it in its youth; we fostered it, and do you
not think, dear reader, there sometimes is gratitude in plants as well as in
men? Other States may plant it and succeed with it, too, to a certain extent,
but it will cling with the truest devotion to those localities where it was
cared for in its youth. Have we not also found, during the late war, that the
Germans, the adopted citizens of this great country, clung with a heartier
devotion to our noble flag, and shed their blood more freely for it, than
thousands upon thousands of native-born Americans? And why? Because
here they found protection, equal rights for all, and that freedom which had
been the idol of their hearts, and haunted their dreams by night; because
they had been oppressed so long they more fully appreciated the blessings
of a free government than those who had enjoyed it from their birth. But
you may call me fantastical for comparing plants to human beings, and will
say, plants have no appreciation of such things. Brother Skeptic, have you,
or has any body, divined all the secrets of Nature's workshop? Truly we
may say that we have not, and we meet with facts every day which are
stranger than fiction.

The Concord had as small a beginning with us. In the winter of 1855 a
few eyes of its wood were sent me by Mr. Jas. G. Soulard, of Galena, Ill. I
grafted them upon old Catawba vines, and one of them grew. The next year
I distributed some of the scions to our vine-growers, who grafted them also.
When my vine commenced to bear I was astonished, after what I had heard
of the poor quality of the fruit from the East, to find it so fine, and so
luxurious and healthy; and we propagated it as fast as possible. Now,
scarcely nine years from the time when I received the first scions, hundreds
of acres are being planted with it here, and one-third of an acre of it, planted
five years ago, has produced for me, in fruit, wine, layers, cuttings, and
plants, the round sum of ten thousand dollars during that time. Its wine, if
pressed as soon as the grapes are mashed, is eminently one of those which
"maketh glad the heart of man," and is evidently destined to become one of
the common drinks of our laboring classes. It is light, agreeable to the
palate, has a very enlivening and invigorating effect, and can be grown as
cheap as good cider. I am satisfied that an acre will, with good cultivation,
produce from 1,000 to 1,500 gallons per year. My vines produced this
season at the rate of 2,500 gallons to the acre, but this may be called an
extra-large crop. I have cited the history of these two varieties in our
neighborhood merely as examples of progress. It would lead too far here, to
follow the history of all our leading varieties, though many a goodly story
might be told of them. Our friends in the East claim as much for the
Delaware and others, with which we have not been able to succeed. And
here let me say that the sooner we divest ourselves of the idea that one
grape should be the grape for this immense country of ours; the sooner we
try to adapt the variety to the locality—not the locality to the variety—the
sooner we will succeed. The idea is absurd, and unworthy of a thinking
people, that one variety should succeed equally well or ill in such a
diversity of soil and climate as we have in this broad land of ours. It is in
direct conflict with the laws of vegetable physiology, as well as with
common sense and experience. In planting our vineyards we should first go
to one already established, which we think has the same soil and location,
or nearly so, as the one we are going to plant. Of those varieties which
succeed there we should plant the largest number, and plant a limited
number also of all those varieties which come recommended by good
authority. A few seasons will show which variety suits our soil, and what we
ought to plant in preference to all others. Thus the Herbemont, the

Cynthiana, Delaware, Taylor, Cunningham, Rulander, Martha, and even the
Iona, may all find their proper location, where each will richly reward their
cultivator; and certainly they are all too good not to be tried.

Now, let us see what progress the country at large has made in grape-
growing during, say, the last ten years. Then, I think I may safely assert, that
the vineyards throughout the whole country did not comprise more than
three to four thousand acres. Now I think I may safely call them over two
millions of acres. Then, our whole list embraced about ten varieties, all told,
of which only the Catawba and Isabella were considered worthy of general
cultivation; now we count our native varieties by the hundreds, and the
Catawba and Isabella will soon number among the things which have been.
Public taste has become educated, and they are laid aside in disgust, when
such varieties as the Herbemont, Delaware, Clara, Allen's Hybrid, Iona,
Adirondac, and others can be had. Then, grape-growing was confined to
only a few small settlements; now there is not a State in the Union, from
Maine to California, but has its vineyards; and especially our Western States
have entered upon a race which shall excel the other in the good work. Our
brethren in Illinois bid fair to outdo us, and vineyards spring up as if by
magic, even on the prairies. Nay, grape-culture bids fair to extend into
Minnesota, a country which was considered too cold for almost anything
except oats, pines, wolves, bears, and specimens of daring humanity
encased in triple wool. We begin to find out that we have varieties which
will stand almost anything if they are only somewhat protected in winter. It
was formerly believed that only certain favored locations and soils in each
State would produce good grapes—for instance, sunny hillsides along large
streams; now we begin to see that we can grow some varieties of grape on
almost any soil. One of the most flourishing vineyards I have ever seen is
on one of the islands in the Missouri river, where all the varieties planted
there—some six or seven—seemed perfectly at home in the rich, sandy
mould, where it needs no trenching to loosen the soil. Then, grape-growing,
with the varieties then in cultivation, was a problem to be solved; now, with
the varieties we have proved, it is a certainty that it is one of the most
profitable branches of horticulture, paying thousands of dollars to the acre
every year. Then, wine went begging at a dollar a gallon; now it sells as fast
as made at from two dollars to six dollars a gallon. Instead of the only wine
then considered fit to drink, we number our wine-producing varieties by the

dozen, all better than the Catawba; among the most prominent of which I
will name—of varieties producing white wine, the Herbemont, Delaware,
Cassidy, Taylor, Rulander, Cunningham, and Louisiana; of light-red wines,
the Concord; of dark-red wines, the Norton's Virginia, Cynthiana, Arkansas
and Clinton; so that every palate can be suited. And California bids fair to
outdo us all; for there, I am told, several kinds of wine are made from the
same grape, in the same vineyard, and in fabulous quantities. To cite an
example of the increase in planting: in 1854 the whole number of vines
grown and sold in Hermann did not exceed two thousand. This season two
millions of plants have been grown and sold, and not half enough to meet
the demand. It is said that the tone of the press is a fair indication of public
sentiment. If this is true what does it prove? Take one of our horticultural
periodicals, and nine-tenths of the advertisements will be "Grape-vines for
sale," in any quantity and at any price, from five dollars to one hundred
dollars per 100, raised North, East, South, and West. Turn to the reading
matter, and you can hardly turn over a leaf but the subject of grapes stares
you in the face, with a quiet impunity, which plainly says, "The nation is
affected with grape fever; and while our readers have grape on the brain
there is no fear of overdosing." Why, the best proof I can give my readers
that grape fever does exist to an alarming degree, is this very book itself.
Were not I and they affected with the disease, I should never have presumed
to try their patience.

But, fortunately, the remedy is within easy reach. Plant grapes, every one
of you who is thus afflicted, until our hillsides are covered with them, and
we have made our barren spots blossom as the rose.

Truly, the results we have already obtained, are cheering enough. And yet
all this has been principally achieved in the last few years, while the nation
was involved in one of the most stupendous struggles the world ever saw,
while its very existence was endangered, and thousands upon thousands of
her patriotic sons poured out their blood like water, and the husbandman left
his home; the vintner his vineyard, to fight the battles of his country. What
then shall we become now, when peace has smiled once more upon our
beloved country; and the thousands of brave arms, who brandished the
sword, sabre, or musket, have come home once more; and their weapons
have been turned into ploughshares, and their swords into pruning hooks?

When all the strong and willing hands will clear our hillsides, and God's sun
shines upon one great and united people; greater and more glorious than
ever; because now they are truly free. Truly the future lies before us, rich in
glorious promise; and ere long the words and the prophecy contained in the
old legend will become sober truth, and America will be, from the Atlantic
to the Pacific one smiling and happy Wineland; where each laborer shall sit
under his own vine, and none will be too poor to enjoy the purest and most
wholesome of all stimulants, good, cheap, native wine. Then drunkenness,
now the curse of the nation, will disappear, and peace and good will
towards all will rule our actions. And we, brother grape growers? Ours is
this great and glorious task; let us work unceasingly, with hand, heart, and
mind; truly the object is worthy of our best endeavors. Let those who begin
to-day, remember how easy their task with the achievements and
experiments of others before them, compared with the labors of those who
were the pioneers in the cultivation of the vine.

PROPAGATION OF THE VINE.

I.—FROM SEED.

This would seem to be the most natural mode, were not the grape even
more liable to sport than almost any other fruit. It is, however, the only
method upon which we can depend for obtaining new and more valuable
varieties than we already possess, and to which we are already indebted for
all the progress made in varieties, a progress which is, indeed, very
encouraging; for who would deny that we are to-day immeasurably in
advance of what we were ten years ago. Among the innumerable varieties
which spring up every day, and which find ready purchasers, just because
they are new, there are certainly some of decided merit. But those who
grow seedlings, should bear in mind, that the list of our varieties is already
too large; that it would be better if three-fourths of them were stricken off,
and that no new variety should be brought before the public, unless it has
some decided superiority over any of the varieties we already have, in
quality, productiveness and exemption from disease. It is poor
encouragement to the grape growing public, to pay from two to five dollars
a vine for a new variety, with some high-sounding name, if, after several
years of superior cultivation and faithful trial, they find their costly pet
inferior to some variety they already possessed, and of which the plants
could be obtained at a cost of from ten to fifty cents each.

The grapes from which the seed is to be used, should be fully ripe, and
none but well developed, large berries, should be taken. Keep these during
the winter, either in the pulp, or in cool, moist sand, so that their vitality
may remain unimpaired. The soil upon which your seed-bed is made,
should be light, deep and rich, and if it is not so naturally, should be made
so with well decomposed leaf-mould. As soon as the weather in spring will

permit, dig up the soil to the depth of at least eighteen inches, pulverising it
well; then sow the seed in drills, about a foot apart, and about one inch apart
in the rows, covering them about three-quarters of an inch deep. It will
often be found necessary to shade the young plants when they come up, to
prevent the sun from scalding them, but this should not be continued too
long, as the plants will become too tender, if protected too long. When the
young plants have grown about six inches, they may be supplied with small
sticks, to which they will cling readily; the ground should be kept clean and
mellow, and a light mulch should be applied, which will keep the soil loose
and moist. The young plants should be closely watched, and if any of them
show signs of disease, they should at once be pulled up; also those which
show a very feeble and delicate growth; for we should only try to grow
varieties with good, healthy constitutions. In the Fall, the young plants
should be either taken up, and carefully heeled in, or they should be
protected by earth, straw, or litter thrown over them. In the Spring, they
may be transplanted to their permanent locations; the tops shortened in to
six inches, and the roots shortened in to about six inches from the stem. The
soil for their reception should be moderately light and rich, and loosened up
to the depth of at least eighteen inches.

Make a hole about eight inches deep, then throw in soil so as to raise a
small mound in the centre of the hole, about two inches high; on this place
the young vine, and carefully spread the roots in all directions; then fill up
with well pulverized soil, so that the upper eye or bud is even with the
surface of the ground; then press the soil down lightly; place a good stake,
of about four feet high, with the plant, and allow but one shoot to grow,
which should be neatly tied to the stake as it grows. The vines may be
planted in rows six feet apart, and three feet apart in the rows, as many of
them will prove worthless, and have to be taken out. Allow all the laterals to
grow on the young cane, as this will make it short-jointed and stocky.
Cultivate the ground well, stirring it freely with plough, cultivator, hoe, and
rake, which generally is the best mulch that can be applied.

With the proper care and attention, our seedlings will generally grow
from three to four feet, and make stout, short-jointed wood this second
season. Should any of them look particularly promising, fruit may be
obtained a year sooner by taking the wood of it, and grafting strong old

vines with it. These grafts will generally bear fruit the next season. The
method to be followed will be given in another place.

At the end of the second season the vines should be pruned to about three
eyes or buds, and the soil hilled up around them so as to cover them up
completely. The next spring take off the covering, and when the young
shoots appear allow only two to grow. After they have grown about
eighteen inches, pinch off the top of the weakest, so as to throw the growth
into the strongest shoot, which keep neatly tied to the stake, treating it as
the summer before, allowing all the laterals to grow. Cultivate the soil well.
At the end of this season's growth the vines should be strong enough to bear
the following summer. If they have made from eight to ten feet of stocky
growth, the leading cane may be pruned to ten or twelve eyes, and the
smaller one to a spur of two eyes. If they will fruit at all, they will show it
next summer, when only those promising well should be kept, and the
barren and worthless ones discarded.

II.—BY SINGLE EYES.

As this method is mostly followed only by those who propagate the vine
for sale in large quantities, and but to a limited extent by the practical
vineyardist, I will give only an outline of the most simple manner, and on
the cheapest plan. Those wishing further information will do well to consult
"The Grape Culturist," by Mr. A. S. Fuller, in which excellent work they
will find full instructions.

The principal advantages of this mode of propagation are the following:
1st. The facility with which new and rare kinds can be multiplied, as every
well ripened bud almost can be transformed into a plant. 2d. As the plants
are started under glass, by bottom heat, it lengthens the season of their
growth from one to two months. 3d. Every variety of grape can be
propagated by this method with the greatest ease, even those which only
grow with the greatest difficulty, or not at all, from cuttings in open ground.

As to the merits or demerits of plants grown under glass from single
eyes, to those grown from cuttings or layers in open ground, opinions differ

very much, and both have their advocates. For my part, I do not see why a
plant grown carefully from a single eye should not be as good as one
propagated by any other method; a poor plant is not worth having, whether
propagated by this or any other method, and, unfortunately, we have too
many of them.

THE PROPAGATING HOUSE.

I will only give a description of a lean-to of the cheapest kind, for which
any common hot-bed sash, six feet long, can be used.

Choose for a location the south side of a hill, as, by making the house
almost entirely underground, a great deal of building material can be saved.
Excavate the ground as for a cellar—say five feet deep on the upper side,
seven feet wide, and of any length to suit convenience, and the number of
plants you wish to grow. Inside of the excavation set posts or scantlings, the
upper row to be seven feet long above the ground, and two feet below the
ground; the lower row four and one-half feet above the ground, so that the
roof will have about two and one-half feet pitch. Upon these nail the rafters,
of two-inch planks. Then take boards, say common inch-plank, and set them
up behind the posts, one above the other, to prevent the earth from falling
in. This will make all the wall that is needed on both sides. On the ends,
boards can be nailed to both sides of the posts, and the intervening space
tilled with spent tan or saw-dust. Upon the rafters place the sash on the
lower side; the upper side may be covered with boards or shingles, where
also the ventilating holes can be left, to be closed with trap-doors. The
house is to be divided into two compartments—the furnace-room on one
end, about eight feet long, and the propagating house, The furnace is below
the ground, say four feet long, the flue to be made of brick, and to extend
under the whole length of the bench. To make the flue, lay a row of bricks
flat and crosswise; on the ends of these place two others on their edges, and
across the top lay a row flat, in the same way as the bottom ones were
placed. This gives the flue four inches by eight in the clear. The flue should
rise rather abruptly from the furnace, say about a foot; it can then be carried
fifty feet with, say six to nine inches rise, and still have sufficient draft.

Inside of the propagating room we have again two compartments—the
propagating bench, nearest to the furnace, and a shelf for the reception of
the young plants, after their first transplanting from the cutting-pots or
boxes. Make a shelf or table along the whole length of the house; at the
lower end it should be about eighteen inches from the glass, and five feet
wide. To a house of, say fifty feet, the propagating bench may be, say
twelve feet long, and the room below it and around the flue should be
inclosed with boards, as it will keep the heat better.

MODE OF OPERATING.

The wood should be cut from the vines in the fall, as soon as the leaves
have dropped. For propagating, use only firm, well-ripened wood of the last
season's growth, and about medium thickness. These are to be preferred to
either very large or very small ones. The time to commence operating will
vary according to climate; here it should be the early part of February. The
wood to be used for propagating can be kept in a cool cellar, in sand, or
buried in the ground out doors. Take out the cuttings, and cut them up into
pieces as represented in Figure 1.

Fig. 1.

Throw these into water as they are cut; it will prevent them from
becoming dry. It will be found of benefit with hard-wooded varieties to
pack them in damp moss for a week or so before they are put into the
propagating pots or boxes; it will soften the alburnous matter, and make
them strike root more readily. They should then be put into, say six-inch
pots, filled to about an inch of the top with pure coarse sand, firmly packed.

Place the cuttings, the buds up, about an inch apart, all over the surface of
the pot; press down firmly with thumb and forefinger until the bud is even
with the surface; sift on sand enough to cover the upper point of the bud
about a quarter of an inch deep; press down evenly, using the bottom of
another pot for the purpose, and apply water enough to moisten the whole
contents of the pot. Instead of the pots, shallow boxes of about six inches
deep, can also be used, with a few holes bored in the bottom for drainage.

After the pots have been filled with cuttings they are placed in a
temperature of from 40° to 45°, where they remain from two to three
weeks, water being applied only enough to keep them moist, not wet. As
roots are formed at a much lower degree of temperature than leaves, they
should not be forced too much at the beginning, or the leaves will appear
before we have any roots to support them. But when the cutting has formed
its roots first, the foliage, when it does appear, will grow much more
rapidly, and without any check. Then remove them to another position,
plunging the pots into sand to the depth of, say three inches, and raise the
temperature at first to 60° for the first few days, then gradually raise it to
80°. When the buds begin to push, raise the temperature to 90° or 95°, and
keep the air moist by frequent waterings, say once a day. The best for this
purpose is pure rain-water, but it should be of nearly the same temperature
as the air in the house, for, if applied cold, it would surely check the growth
of the plants. The young growth should be examined every day, to see if
there is any sign of rotting; should this be the case, give a little more air, but
admit no sudden cold currents, as they are often fatal. The glass should be
whitewashed, to avoid the direct rays of the sun.

When the young vines have made a growth of two or three inches shift
them into three-inch pots.

So far we have used only pure sand, which did not contain much plant
food, because the growth was produced from the food stored up in the bud
and wood, and what little they obtained from the sand, water, and air. Now,
however, our young vines want more substantial food. They should
therefore be potted into soil, mixed from rotten sod, leaf-mould, and well-
decomposed old barnyard manure. This should be mixed together six
months before using; add, before using, one-quarter sand, then mix

thoroughly, and sift all through a coarse sieve. In operating, put a quantity
of soil on the potting bench, provide a quantity of broken bricks or
potsherds for drainage, loosen the plants from the pots by laying them on
their side, giving them a sudden jar with the hand, to loosen the sand around
them; draw out the plant carefully, holding it with one hand, while with the
other you place a piece of the drainage material into the pot; cover it with
soil about an inch; then put in the plant, holding it so that the roots spread
out naturally; fill in soil around them until the pot is full; press the soil
down firmly, but not hard enough to break the roots. When the plants are
potted give them water to settle the earth around the roots, and keep the air
somewhat confined for a few days, until they have become established,
when more air may be given them. Keep the temperature at 85° to 95°
during the day, and 70° to 80° during the night.

When the plants have made about six inches of growth they can either be
placed in another house, or in hot-bed frames, if they are to be kept under
glass. The usual manner of keeping them in pots during summer, shifting
them into larger and larger sizes, I consider injurious to the free
development of the plants, as the roots are distorted and cramped against
the sides of the pots, and cannot spread naturally. I prefer shifting them into
cold frames, in which beds have been prepared of light, rich soil, into which
the young plants can be planted, and kept under whitewashed hot-bed
sashes for a while, which, after several weeks, may be removed, and only a
light shading substituted in their place, which, after several weeks more,
can also be removed. Thus the young plants are gradually hardened, their
roots have a chance to spread evenly and naturally, without any cramping;
and such plants, although they may not make as tall a growth as those kept
under glass all the season, will really stand transplanting into the vineyard
much better than those hot-house pets, which may look well enough, but
really are, like spoiled and pampered children, but poorly fitted to stand the
rough vicissitudes of every-day life.

The young plants should be lightly tied to small sticks provided for the
purpose, as it will allow free circulation of air, and admit the sun more
freely to the roots. In the fall, after their leaves have dropped, they should
be carefully taken up, shortened to about a foot of their growth, and they are
then ready either to sell, if they are to be disposed of in that way, or for

planting into the vineyard. They should, however, be carefully assorted,
making three classes of them—the strongest, medium, and the smallest—
each to be put separate. The latter generally are not fit to transplant into the
vineyard, but they may be heeled in, and grown in beds another year, when
they will often make very good plants. Heeling in may be done as shown in
Figure 2, laying the vines as close in the rows as they can conveniently be
laid, and then fill the trench with well-pulverized soil. They can thus be
safely kept during the winter.

Fig. 2.

I have only given an outline of the most simple and cheapest mode of
growing plants from single eyes, such as even the vineyardist may follow.
For descriptions of more extensive and costly buildings, if they desire them,
they had better apply to an architect. I have also not given the mode of
propagating from green wood, as I do not think, plants thus propagated are
desirable. They are apt to be feeble and diseased, and I think, the country at
large would be much better off, had not a single plant ever been produced
by that method.

Plants from single eyes may also be grown in a common hot-bed; but as
in this the heat can not be as well regulated at will, I think it, upon the
whole, not desirable, as the expense of a propagating house on the cheap
plan I have indicated, is but very little more, and will certainly in the long
run, pay much better. Of course, close attention and careful watching is the
first requisite in all the operations.

III.—BY CUTTINGS IN OPEN AIR.

This is certainly the easiest and most simple method for the vineyardist;
can be followed successfully with the majority of varieties, which have
moderately soft wood, and even a part of the hard wood varieties will
generally grow, if managed carefully.

MODE OF OPERATING.

There are several methods, which are followed with more or
less success. I will first describe that which I have found most
successful, namely, short cuttings, of two or three eyes each,
which are made of any sound, well ripened wood, of last season's
growth. Prune the vines in the fall or early winter, and make the
cuttings as soon as convenient; for if the wood is not kept
perfectly fresh and green, the cuttings will fail to grow. Now, cut
up all the sound, well-ripened wood into lengths of from two to
four eyes each, making them of a uniform length of say eight
inches, and prepare them as shown in Figure 3.

These should be tied into convenient bundles, from 100 to 250
in each, taking care to even the lower ends, and then buried in the
ground, making a hole somewhat deeper than the cuttings are
long, into which the bundles are set on their lower ends, and soil
thrown in between and over them. In spring, as soon as the
ground is dry enough, the cutting-bed should be prepared. Choose
for this a light, rich soil, which should be well pulverized, to the
depth of at least a foot, and if not light enough, it should be made
so by adding some leaf mould. Now draw a line along the whole
length of the bed; then take a spade and put it down perpendicular Fig. 3.
along the line or nearly so, moving it a little backwards and
forwards, so as to open the cut. Now take the cutting and press it
down into the cut thus made, until the upper bud is even with the surface of
the soil. The cuttings may be put close in the rows, say an inch apart, and
the rows made two feet apart. Press the ground firmly down with your foot
along the line of cuttings, so as to pack it closely around the cutting. After
the bed is finished, mulch them with straw, or litter, spent tan or saw-dust,
say about an inch thick, and if none of these can be had, leaves from the

forest may be used for the purpose. This will serve to protect the young
leaves from the sun, and will also keep an even moisture during the heat of
summer, at the same time keeping the soil loose and porous. If weeds
appear, they should be pulled up, and the cuttings, kept clean through the
summer. They will generally make a firm, hardy growth of from one to four
feet, have become used to all the hardships and changes of the weather; and
as they have formed their roots just where they ought to be, about eight
inches below the ground, will not suffer so much from transplanting, as
either a single eye or a layer, whose roots have to be put much deeper in
transplanting, than they were before, and thus, as it were, become
acclimated to the lower regions. For these reasons, I think, that a good plant
grown from a cutting is preferable to that propagated by any other method.
In the Fall, the vines are carefully taken up, assorted and heeled in, in the
same manner as described, with single eyes, and cut back to about three
inches of their growth. They are then ready for transplanting into the
vineyard.

IV.—BY LAYERING.

This is a very convenient method of increasing such varieties as will not
grow readily from cuttings; and vines thus propagated will, if treated right,
make very good plants. To layer a vine, shorten in its last season's growth to
about one-half; then prepare the ground thoroughly, pulverizing it well;
then, early in spring make a small furrow, about an inch deep, then bend the
cane down and fasten it firmly in the bottom of the trench, by wooden
hooks or pegs, made for the purpose. They may thus be left, until the young
shoots have grown, say six inches; then fill up with finely pulverized soil or
leaf-mould. The vines will thus strike root generally at every joint. The
young shoots may be tied to small sticks, provided for the purpose, and
when they have grown about a foot, their tips should be pinched off to make
them grow more stocky. In the Fall they are taken up carefully, commencing
to dig at the end furthest removed from the vine, and separate each plant
between the joints, so that every shoot has a system of roots by itself. They
are then either planted immediately, or heeled in as described before.

V.—BY GRAFTING.

The principal advantages to be gained by this method are:
1st. The facility by which new and rare kinds may be
increased, by grafting them on strong stocks of healthy
varieties, when they will often grow from ten to twenty feet the
first season, producing an abundance of wood to propagate. 2d.
The short time in which fruit can be obtained from new and
untried varieties, as their grafts will generally bear the next
season. 3d. In every vineyard there are, in these days of many
varieties, vines which have proved inferior, yet by grafting into
them some superior variety, they may be made very valuable.
4th. The facility by which vines can be forced under glass, by
grafting on small pieces of roots, and the certainty with which
every bud can thus be made to grow.

The vine, however, does not unite with the same facility as
the pear and apple, and, to ensure success, must be grafted
under ground, which makes the operation a difficult and
disagreeable one. It will therefore hardly become a general
practice; but, for the purposes above named, is of sufficient
importance, to make it desirable that every vineyardist should
be able to perform it. I have generally had the best success in
grafting here about the middle of March, in the following
manner: Dig away the ground around the vine you wish to
graft, until you come to a smooth place to insert your scion;
then cut off the vine with a sharp knife, and insert one or two
scions, as in common cleft-grafting, taking care to cut the
wedge on the scion very thin, with shoulders on both sides, as
shown in Figure 4, cutting your scion to two eyes, to better
Fig. 4. insure success. Great care must be taken to insert the scion
properly, as the inner bark or liber of the vine is very thin, and
the success of the operation depends upon a perfect junction of
the stock and scion. If the vine is strong enough to hold the
scion firmly, no further bandage is necessary; if not, it should be wound

firmly and evenly with bass bark. Then press the soil firmly on the cut, and
fill up the hole with well pulverized earth, to the top of the scion. Examine
the stock from time to time, and remove all wild shoots and suckers, which
it may throw up, as they will rob the graft of nourishment and enfeeble it.

Others prefer to graft in May, when the leaves have expanded, and the
most rapid flow of sap has ceased, keeping the scions in a cool place, to
prevent the buds from starting. The operation is performed in precisely the
same manner, and will be just as successful, I think, but the grafts that have
been put in early, have the advantage of several weeks over the others, and
the latter will seldom make as strong a growth, or ripen their wood as well
as those put in early.

Mr. A. S. Fuller performs the operation in the fall, preventing the graft
from freezing by inverting a flower-pot over it, and then covering with
straw or litter. He claims for this method—1st. That it can be performed at a
time when the ground is more dry, and in better condition, and business not
so pressing as in spring.—2d. That the scion and stock have more time to
unite, and will form their junction completely during the winter, and will
therefore start sooner, and make a more rapid growth than in spring. It
certainly looks feasible enough, and is well worth trying, as, when the
operation succeeds, it must evidently have advantages over any of the other
modes.

Vines I had grafted in March have sometimes made twenty to thirty feet
of growth, and produced a full crop the next season. This will show one the
advantage to be derived from it in propagating new and scarce varieties, and
in hastening the fruiting of them. Should a seedling, for instance, look very
promising in foliage and general appearance, fruit may be obtained from it
from one to two seasons sooner by grafting some of the wood on strong
stocks, than from the original plant. Hence the vast importance of grafting,
even to the practical vineyardist.

THE VINEYARD.

LOCATION AND SOIL.

As the selection of a proper location is of vast importance, and one of the
main conditions of success, great care and judgment should be exercised in
the choice. Some varieties of grapes may be grown on almost any soil, it is
true; but even they will show a vast difference in the quality of the fruit,
even if the quantity were satisfactory; on indifferent soil, and in an inferior
location. Everybody should grow grapes enough for his own use, who owns
an acre of ground, but every one cannot grow them and make the most
delicious wine.

The best locations are generally on the hillsides, along our larger rivers,
water-courses, and lakes, sloping to the East, South, and Southwest, as they
are generally more exempt from late spring frosts and early frosts in fall.
The location should be sheltered from the cold winds from the north and
northwest, but fully exposed to the prevailing winds in summer from the
south and southwest. If a hill is chosen at any distance from a large body of
water, it should be high and airy, with as gentle a slope as can be obtained.
The locations along creeks and smaller water-courses should be particularly
avoided, as they are subject to late spring frosts, and are generally damp and
moist.

The soil should be a dry, calcareous loam, sufficiently deep, say three
feet; if possible, draining itself readily. Should this not be the case naturally,
it should be done with tiles.

I was much struck by the force of a remark made by medical friend last
summer, when, in consequence of the continual rains, the ague was very

prevalent. It was this: wherever you will find the ague an habitual guest
with the inhabitants you need not look for healthy grapevines. Wherever we
find stagnant water let us avoid the neighboring hillsides, for they would
not be congenial to our grape-vines. But on the bluffs overhanging the
banks of our large streams, especially on the northern and western sides,
where the vines are sheltered from the north and west winds, and fully
exposed to the warm southern winds of our summer days, and where the
fogs arising from the water yet give sufficient humidity to the atmosphere,
even in the hottest summer days, to refresh the leaf during the night and
morning hours; where the soil on the southern and eastern slopes is a
mixture of decomposed stone and leaf-mould, and feels like velvet to the
feet—there is the paradise for the grape; and the soil is already better
prepared for it than the hand of man can ever do. Such locations should be
cheap to the grape-grower at any price. We find them very frequently along
the northern banks of the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, and they will no
doubt become the favored grape regions of the country. The grape grows
there with a luxuriance and health which is almost incredible to those living
in less favored locations.

But the question may be asked here, what shall be done by those who do
not live in these favored regions, and yet would like to grow grapes? I
answer, let them choose the best location they have, the most free and airy,
and let them choose only those sturdy varieties that withstand everything.
They cannot grow the most delicate varieties—the Herbemont, the
Delaware, the Clara, are not for them; but they can grow the Concord,
Hartford Prolific, and Norton's Virginia, and they at least are "very good,"
although they may not be the "best." There is no excuse for any one in this
country why he should not grow his own grapes, for the use of his family at
least, if he has any ground to grow them on.

PREPARING THE SOIL.

In this, the foundation of all grape-growing, the vineyardist must also
look to the condition in which he finds the soil. Should it be free of stones,

stumps, and other obstructions, the plough and sub-soil plough will be all-
sufficient.

Should your soil be new, perhaps a piece of wild forest land, have it
carefully grubbed, and every tree and stump taken out by the roots. After
the ground is cleared take a large breaking-plough, with three yoke of
sturdy oxen, and plough as deep as you can, say twelve to fourteen inches.
Now follow in the same furrow with an implement we call here a sub-soil
stirrer, and which is simply a plough-share of wedge shape, running in the
bottom of the furrow, and a strong coulter, running up from it through the
beam of the plough, sharp in front, to cut the roots; the depth of the furrow
is regulated by a movable wheel running in front, which can be set by a
screw. With two yoke of oxen this will loosen the soil to the depth of, say
twenty inches, which is sufficient, unless the sub-soil is very tenacious. In
land already cultivated, where there are no roots to obstruct, two yoke of
oxen or four horses attached to the plough, and one yoke of oxen or a pair
of horses or mules to the sub-soil plough, will be sufficient. In stony soil the
pick and shovel must take the place of the plough, as it would be impossible
to work it thoroughly with the latter; but I think there is no advantage in the
common method of trenching or inverting the soil, as is now practiced to a
very great extent. If we examine the growth of our native vines we will
generally find their roots extending along the surface of the soil. It is
unnatural to suppose that the grape, the most sun-loving of all our plants,
should be buried with its roots several feet below the surface of the soil, far
beyond the reach of sun and air. Therefore, if you can afford it, work your
soil deep and thoroughly; it will be labor well invested; is the best
preventive against drouth, and also the best drainage in wet weather; but
have it in its natural position—not invert it; and do not plant too deep.
Should the soil be very poor it may be enriched by manure, ashes, bone-
dust, etc.; but it will seldom be found necessary, as most of our soil is rich
enough; and it is not advisable to stimulate the growth too much, as it will
be rank and unhealthy, and injurious to the quality and flavor of the fruit.

Wet spots may be drained by gutters filled with loose stones, or tiles, and
then covered with earth. Surface-draining can be done by running a small
ditch or furrow every sixth or eighth row, parallel with the hillside, and
leading into a main ditch at the end or the middle of the vineyard. Steep

hillsides should be terraced or benched; but, as this is very expensive, they
should be avoided.

WHAT SHALL WE PLANT?

CHOICE OF VARIETIES.

It is a very difficult matter, in a vast country like ours, where the soil and
climate differ so much, to recommend any thing; and I think it a mistake,
into which many of our prominent grape-growers have fallen, to
recommend any variety, simply because it succeeded well with them, for
general cultivation. Grape-growing is, perhaps, more than any other branch
of horticulture or pomology, dependent upon soil, location and climate, and
it will not do to dictate to the inhabitants of a country, in which the
"extremes meet," that they should all plant one variety. Yet this has been
done by some who pretend to be authorities, and it shows, more than any
thing else, that they have more arrogance than knowledge. I, for my part,
have seen such widely different results, from the same varieties, under the
same treatment, and in vineyards only a few miles apart, but with a different
soil and different aspect, that I am reluctant to recommend to my next
neighbor, what he shall plant.

But, while the task is a difficult one, yet we may lay down certain rules,
which can govern us in selection of varieties to a certain extent. We should
choose—1st. The variety which has given the most general satisfaction in
the State or county in which we live, or the nearest locality to us. 2d—Visit
the nearest accessible vineyard in the month of August and September,
observe closely which variety has the healthiest foliage and fruit; ripens the
most uniformly and perfectly; and either sells best in market, or makes the
best wine, and which, at the same time, is of good quality, and productive
enough. Your observations, thus taken, will be a better guide than the
opinion of the most skillful grape grower a thousand miles off.

I will now name a few of the most prominent varieties which should at
least be tried by every grape grower.

THE CONCORD.

This grape seems to have given the most general satisfaction all over the
country, and seems to be the "grape for the million." Wherever heard from,
it seems to be uniformly healthy and productive. Our Eastern friends
complain of its inferior quality; this may be owing partly to their short
seasons, and partly to the too early gathering of the fruit. It is one of those
varieties which color early, but should hang a long time after coloring, to
attain its full perfection. Here it is at least very good; makes an excellent
wine, and, if we take into consideration its enormous productiveness, its
vigor and adaptability to all soils and climates, we must acknowledge that
as yet it stands without a rival, and will be a safe investment almost
anywhere. Our long summers bring it to a perfection of which our Eastern
friends have no idea, until they try it here. It will do well in almost any soil.

NORTON'S VIRGINIA.

This, so far, is the leading grape for red wine, and its reputation here and
in the entire West is now so fully established, that it would be difficult
indeed to persuade our people into the belief, that any other grape could
make a better red wine. It is healthy and uniformly productive, and will be
safe to plant, I think, in nearly all the Western States. I rather doubt that our
Eastern friends will succeed in making a first class wine from it, as I think
their summers are too short, to develop all its good qualities. Will succeed
in almost any soil, but attains its greatest perfection in southern slopes with
somewhat strong soil.

HERBEMONT.

This is a truly delicious grape, but somewhat tender, and wants a long
season to fully ripen its fruit and bring out all its good qualities. Will hardly
do much further north than we are here, in Missouri, but is, I think, destined
to be one of the leading grapes for the Southern States. If you have a warm,
southern exposure, somewhat stony, with limestone foundation, plant the
Herbemont, and you will not be disappointed. It is healthy and very
productive; more refreshing than the Delaware, and makes an excellent
wine.

DELAWARE.

Is much recommended by Eastern authorities, and where it succeeds, is
certainly a fine grape and makes a delicious wine. Here at the West, it has
proved a failure in most locations, being subject to leaf-blight, and a feeble
grower. There are some locations, however, where it will flourish; and
whoever is the fortunate possessor of such a one should not forget to plant
it. It seems to flourish best in light, warm, somewhat sandy soil.

HARTFORD PROLIFIC.

This is immensely productive; of very fair quality here; hardy and
healthy; and if planted for early marketing, will give general satisfaction. It
hangs well to the bunch, and even makes a very fair wine. Will flourish in
almost every soil.

CLINTON.

Hardy, healthy and productive; will make a fair wine, but is here not
equal even to the Concord, and far behind the Norton's Virginia in quality.
May be desirable further north.

PLANTING.

The distance at which the vines may be planted will of course vary
somewhat with the growth of the different varieties. The rows may all be
six feet apart, as this is the most convenient distance for cultivating, and
gives ample space for a horse and man to pass through with plough or
cultivator. Slow-growing varieties, such as the Delaware and Catawba, may
be planted six feet apart in the rows, making the distance six feet each way;
but the Concord, Norton's Virginia, Herbemont, Hartford Prolific,
Cunningham, and all the strong growers, will need more room, say ten feet
in the rows, so as to give the vines ample room to spread, and allow free
circulation of air—one of the first conditions of health in the vines, and
quality of the fruit.

The next question to be considered is: Shall we plant cuttings or rooted
plants? My preference is decidedly for the latter, for the following reasons:
Cuttings are uncertain, even of those varieties which grow the most readily;
and we cannot expect to have anything like an even growth, such as we can
have if the plants are carefully assorted. Some of the cuttings will always
fail, and there will be gaps and vacancies which are hard to fill, even if the
strongest plants are taken for replanting. Therefore, let us choose plants.

But we should not only choose rooted plants, but the best we can get; and
these are good one year old, whether grown from cuttings, layers or single
eyes. A good plant should have plenty of strong, well-ripened roots; not
covered with excrescences and warts, which is always a sign of ill health;
but smooth and firm; with well-ripened, short-jointed wood. They should be
of uniform size, as they will then make an even stand in the vineyard, when
not forced by the propagator into an unnaturally rank growth by artificial
manures. This latter consideration, I think, is very important, as we can
hardly expect such plants, which have been petted and pampered, and fed
on rich diet, to thrive on the every-day fare they will find in the vineyard.

Do not take second or third rate plants, if you can help it; they may live and
grow, but they will never make the growth which a plant of better quality
would make. We may hear of good results sometimes, obtained by planting
second-rate plants, but certainly the results would be better if better plants
had been chosen. Especially important is the selection of good plants with
those varieties which do not propagate and transplant readily, such as the
Norton's Virginia, Delaware, and other hard-wood varieties. Better pay
double the price you would have to give for inferior plants; the best are the
cheapest in the end, as they will make the healthiest vines, and bear sooner.

But I would also caution my readers against those who will sell you
"extra large layers, for immediate bearing," and whose "plants are better
than those whom anybody else may grow," as their advertisements will term
it. It is time that this humbug should cease; time that the public in general
should know, that they cannot, in nature and reason, expect any fruit from a
plant transplanted the same season; and that those who pretend it can be
done, without vital injury to the plant, are only seeking to fill their pockets
at the cost of their customers. They know well enough themselves that it
cannot be done without killing or fatally injuring the plant, yet they will
impose upon the credulity of their confiding customers; make them pay
from $3 to $5 a piece for a plant, which these good souls will buy, with a
vision of a fine crop of grapes before their eyes, plant them, with long tops,
on which they may obtain a few sickly bunches of fruit the first season; but
if they do the vines will make a feeble growth, not ripen their fruit, and
perhaps be winter-killed the next season. It is like laying the burden of a full
grown man on the shoulders of a child; what was perhaps no burden at all to
the one, will kill the other. Then, again, these "plants, superior to those of
every one else." It is the duty of every propagator and nursery-man to raise
good plants; he can do it if he tries; it is for his interest as much as for the
interest of his customers to raise plants of the best quality; and we have no
reason to suppose that we are infinitely superior to our neighbors. While the
first is a downright swindle, the latter is the height of arrogance. If we had a
good deal less of bombast and self laudation, and more of honesty and fair
dealing in the profession, the public would have more confidence in
professional men, and would be more likely to practice what we preach.
Therefore, if you look around for plants, do not go to those who advertise,
"layers for immediate bearing," or "plants of superior quality to all others

grown;" but go to men who have honesty and modesty enough to send you
a sample of their best plants, if required, and who are not averse to let you
see how they grow them. Choose their good, strong healthy, one year old
plants, with strong, firm, healthy roots, and let those who wish to be
humbugged buy the layers for immediate bearing. You must be content to
wait until the third year for the first crop; but, then, if you have treated your
plants as you ought to do, you can look for a crop that will make your heart
glad to see and gather it. You cannot, in reason and nature expect it sooner.
If your ground has been prepared in the Fall, so much the better, and if
thrown into ridges, so as to elevate the ground somewhat, where the row is
to be, they may be planted in the Fall. The advantages of Fall planting are
as follows: The ground will generally work better, as we have better
weather in the Fall; and generally more time to spare; the ground can settle
among the roots; the roots will have healed and callused over, and the
young plant be ready to start with full vigor in spring.

Fig. 5.

Mark your ground, laying it off with a line, and put down a small stick or
peg, eighteen inches long, wherever a plant is to stand. Dig a hole, about
eight to ten inches deep, as shown in Figure 5, in a slanting direction,
raising a small mound in the bottom, of well-pulverized, mellow earth;
then, having pruned your plant as shown in Figure 6, with its roots and tops
shortened in, as shown by the dotted lines, lay it in, resting the lower end on
the mound of earth, spread out its roots evenly to all sides, and then fill in
among the roots with rich, well-pulverized earth, the upper bud being left
above the ground. When planted in the fall, raise a small mound around
your vine, so that the water will drain off, and throw a handful of straw or

any other mulch on top, to protect it. Of course, the operation should be
performed when the ground is dry enough to be light and mellow, and will
readily work in among the roots.

Fig. 6.

TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE FIRST SUMMER.

The first summer after planting nothing is necessary but to keep the
ground free from weeds, and mellow, stirring freely with hoe, rake, plough,
and cultivator, whenever necessary. Should the vines grow strong they may
be tied to the stakes provided in planting, to elevate them somewhat above
the ground. Allow all the laterals to grow, as it will make the wood stronger
and more stocky. They may even be summer-layered in July, laying down
the young cane, and covering the main stem about an inch deep with
mellow soil, leaving the ends of the laterals out of the ground. With free-

growing kinds, such as the Concord and Hartford Prolific, these will
generally root readily, and make very good plants, the laterals making the
stems of the layers. With varieties that do not root so readily, as the
Delaware and Norton's Virginia, it will seldom be successful, and should
not be practiced. The vineyard may thus be made to pay expenses, and
furnish the vines for further plantations the first year. They are taken up and
divided in the fall, as directed in the chapter for layers. In the fall, prune the
vine to three buds, if strong enough, to one or two if it has only made a
weak growth. A fair growth is from four to five feet the first summer.
During the winter, trellis should be provided for the vines, as we may
expect them to grow from twelve to fifteen feet the coming summer. The
cheapest and most economical are those of strong upright posts, say four
inches in diameter, made of red cedar if it can be had, if not, of any good,
durable timber—mulberry, locust, or white oak—and seven feet long, along
which No. 10 wire is stretched horizontally. Make the holes for the posts
with a post-hole auger, two feet deep; set in the posts, charred on one end,
to make them durable. If wire is to be used, one post every sixteen feet will
be enough, with a smaller stake between, to serve as a support for the wires.
Now stretch your wire, the lowest one about two feet from the ground, the
second one eighteen inches above it, and the third eighteen inches above the
second. The wires may be fastened to the posts by nails, around which they
can be twisted, or by loops of wire driven into the post. Where timber is
plenty, laths made of black oak may be made to serve the same purpose; but
the posts must then be set much closer, and the wire will be the cheapest
and neatest in the end. A good many grape-growers train their vines to
stakes, believing it to be cheaper, but I have found it more expensive than
trellis made in the above manner, and it is certainly a very slovenly method,
compared with the latter. Trellis is much more convenient for tying the
vines, the canes can be distributed much more evenly, and the fruit and
young wood, not being huddled and crowded together as on stakes, will
ripen much more evenly, and be of better quality, as the air and sun have
free access to it.

TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE SECOND SUMMER.

We find the young vine at the commencement of this season pruned to
three buds of the last season's growth. From these we may expect from two
to three strong shoots or canes. Our first work will be to cultivate the whole
ground, say from four to six inches deep, ploughing between the rows, and
hoeing around the vines with a two-pronged German hoe, or karst. Figure 7
shows one of these implements, of the best form for that purpose. The
ground should be completely inverted, but never do it in wet weather, as
this will make the ground hard and cloggy.

Fig. 7.

Of the young shoots, if there are three, leave only the two strongest, tying
the best of them neatly to the trellis with bass, or pawpaw bark, or rye
straw. If a Catawba or Delaware, you may let them grow unchecked, tying
them along the uppermost wire, when they have grown above it. The
Concord, Herbemont, Norton's Virginia, and other strong-growing varieties,
I treat in the following manner: When the young shoot has reached the
second wire I pinch off its leader. This has the tendency to force the laterals
into stronger growth, each forming a medium-sized cane. On these we
intend to grow our fruit the coming season, as the buds on these laterals will
generally produce more and finer fruit than the buds on the strong canes.
Figure 8 will show the manner of training the second summer, with one
cane layered, for the purpose of raising plants. This is done as described

before; only, as the vine will make a much stronger growth this season than
the first, the layering maybe done in June, as soon as the young shoots are
strong enough. Figure 9 shows the vine pruned and tied, at the end of the
second season. Figure 10 illustrates the manner of training and tying the
Catawba or Delaware.

Fig. 8. and Fig. 9.

Fig. 10.

The above is a combination of the single cane and bow system, and the
horizontal arm training, which I first tried on the Concord from sheer
necessity; when the results pleased me so much that I have adopted it with
all strong-growing varieties. The circumstances which led me to the trial of
this method were as follows: In the summer of 1862, when my Concord
vines were making their second season's growth, we had, in the beginning
of June, the most destructive hail storm I have ever seen here. Every leaf
was cut from the vines, and the young succulent shoots were all cut off to
about three to three and a half feet above the ground. The vines, being
young and vigorous, pushed out the laterals vigorously, each of them

making a fair-sized cane. In the fall, when I came to prune them, the main
cane was not long enough, and I merely shortened in the laterals to from
four to six buds each. On these I had as fine a crop of grapes as I ever saw,
fine, large, well-developed bunches and berries, and a great many of them,
as each had produced its fruit-bearing shoot. Since that time I have followed
this method altogether, and obtained the most satisfactory results.

The ground should be kept even and mellow during the summer, and the
vines neatly tied to the trellis with bast or straw.

There are many other methods of training; for instance, the old bow and
stake training, which is followed to a great extent around Cincinnati, and
was followed to some extent here. But it crowds the whole mass of fruit and
leaves together so closely that mildew and rot will follow almost as a
natural consequence, and those who follow it are almost ready to give up
grape-culture in despair. Nor is this surprising. With their tenacious
adherence to so fickle a variety as the Catawba, and to practices and
methods of which experience ought to have taught them the utter
impracticability long ago, we need not be surprised that grape-culture is
with them a failure. We have a class of grape-growers who never learn, nor
ever forget, anything; these we cannot expect should prosper. The grape-
grower, of all others, should be a close observer of nature in her various
moods, a thinking and a reasoning being; he should be trying and
experimenting all the time, and be ready always to throw aside his old
methods, should he find that another will more fully meet the wants of his
plants. Only thus can he expect to prosper.

There is also the arm system, of which we hear so much now-a-days, and
which certainly looks very pretty on paper. But paper is patient, and while
it cannot be denied that it has its advantages, if every spur and shoot could
be made to grow just as represented in drawings, with three fine bunches to
each shoot; yet, upon applying it practically, we find that vines are
stubborn, and some shoots will outgrow others; and before we hardly know
how, the whole beautiful system is out of order. It may do to follow in
gardens, on arbors and walls, with a few vines, but I do not think that it will
ever be successfully followed in vineyard culture for a number of years, as
it involves too much labor in tying up, pruning, etc. I think the method

described above will more fully meet the wants of the vinyardist than any I
have yet seen tried; it is so simple that every intelligent person can soon
become familiar with it, and it gives us new, healthy wood for bearing every
season. Pruning may be done in the fall, as soon as the leaves have dropped.

TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE THIRD SEASON.

At the commencement of the third season, we find our vine pruned to
two spurs of two eyes each, and four lateral canes, of from four to six eyes
each. These are tied firmly to the trellis as shown in Figure 12, for which
purpose small twigs of willows (especially the golden willow, of which
every grape-grower should plant a supply) are the most convenient. The
ground is ploughed and hoed deeply, as described before, taking care,
however, not to plough so deep as to cut or tear the roots of the vine.

Our vines being tied, ploughed, and hoed, we come to one of the most
important and delicate operations to be performed; one of as great—nay,
greater—importance than pruning. I mean summer-pruning, or pinching,
i.e. thumb or finger pruning. Fall-pruning, or cutting back, is but the
beginning of the discipline under which we intend to keep our vines;
summer-pruning is the continuation, and one is useless, and cannot be
followed systematically without the other.

Let us look at our vine well, before we begin, and commence near the
ground. The time to perform the first summer-pruning is when the young
shoots are about six to eight inches long, and when you can see plainly all
the small bunches or buttons—the embryo fruit. We commence on the
lower two spurs, having two buds each. From these two shoots have started.
One of them we intend for a bearing cane next summer; therefore allow it to
grow unchecked for the present, tying it, if long enough, to the lowest wire.
The other, which we intend for a spur again next fall, we pinch with thumb
and finger to just beyond the last bunch or button, taking out the leader
between the last bunch and the next leaf, as shown in Figure 11, the cross
line indicating where the leader is to be pinched off. We now come to the
next spur, on the opposite side, where we also leave one cane to grow

unchecked, and pinch off the other. We now go over all the shoots coming
from the arms or laterals tied to the trellis, and also pinch them beyond the
last bunch. Should any of the buds have pushed out two shoots, we rub off
the weakest; we also take off all barren or weak shoots. If any of them are
not sufficiently developed we pass them over, and go over the vines again,
in a few days after the first pinching.

Fig. 11.

This early pinching of the shoot has a tendency to throw all the vigor into
the development of the young bunch, and the leaves remaining on the shoot,
which now grow with astonishing rapidity. It is a gentle checking, and
leading the sap into other channels; not the violent process which is often
followed long after the bloom, when the wood has become so hardened that
it must be cut with a knife, and by which the plant is robbed of a large
quantity of its leaves, to the injury of both fruit and vine. Let any of my
readers, who wish to satisfy themselves, summer-prune a vine, according to
the method described here, and leave the next vine until after the bloom,

and he will plainly perceive the difference. The merit of first having
practised this method here, which I consider one of vast importance in
grape-culture, belongs to Mr. William Poeschel, of this place, who was led
to do so, by observing the rapid development of the young bunches on a
shoot which had accidentally been broken beyond the last bunch. Now,
there is hardly an intelligent grape-grower here, who does not follow it; and
I think it has added more than one-third to the quantity and quality of my
crop. It also gives a chance to destroy the small, white worm, a species of
leaf-folder, which is very troublesome just at this time, eating the young
fruit and leaves, and which makes its web among the tender leaves at the
end of the shoot.

The bearing branches having all been pinched back, we can leave our
vines alone until after the bloom, only tying up the young canes from the
spurs, should it become necessary. But do not tie them over the bearing
canes, but lead them to the empty space on both sides of the vine; as our
object must be to give the fruit all the air and light we can.

By the time the grapes have bloomed, the laterals will have pushed from
the axils of the leaves on the bearing shoots. Now go over these again, and
pinch each lateral back to one leaf, as shown in Figure 12. This will make
the leaf which remains grow and expand rapidly, serving at the same time
as a conductor of sap to the young bunch opposite, and shading it when it
becomes fully developed. The canes from the spurs, which we left
unchecked, and which we design to bear fruit the next season, may now
also be stopped or pinched, when they are about three feet long, to start
their laterals into stronger growth. Pinch off all the tendrils; this is a very
busy time for the vine-dresser, and upon his close attendance and diligence
now, depends, in a great measure, the value of his crop. Besides, "a stitch in
time saves nine," and he can save an incredible amount of labor by doing
everything at the proper time.

Fig. 12.

In a short time, the laterals on the fruit-bearing branches which have been
pinched will throw out suckers again. These are stopped again, leaving one
leaf of the young growth. Leave the laterals on the canes intended for next
years' fruiting to grow unchecked, tying them neatly with bass, or pawpaw
bark, or with rye straw.

This is about all that is necessary for this summer, except an occasional
tying up of a fruiting branch, should its burden become more than it can
bear. But the majority of the branches will be able to sustain their fruit
without tying, and the young growth which may yet start from the laterals
may be left unchecked, as it will serve to shade the fruit when ripening. Of
course, the soil must be kept clean and mellow, as in the former summer.
This short pruning is also a partial preventative against mildew and rot, and
the last extremely wet season has again shown the importance of letting in
light and air to all parts of the vine; as those vineyards, where a strict
system of early summer pruning had been followed, did not suffer half as

much from rot and mildew as those where the old slovenly method still
prevailed.

My readers will perceive, that Fall-pruning, or shortening-in the ripened
wood of the vine, and summer-pruning, shortening in and thinning out the
young growth, have one and all the same object in view, namely, to keep the
vine within proper bounds, and concentrate all its energies for a two-fold
object, namely, the production and ripening of the most perfect fruit, and
the production of strong, healthy wood for the coming season's crop. Both
operations are, in fact, only different parts of one and the same system, of
which summer-pruning is the preparatory, and fall pruning the finishing
part.

If we think that a vine is setting more fruit than it is able to bear and ripen
perfectly, we have it in our power to thin it, by taking away all imperfect
bunches, and feeble shoots. We should allow no more wood to grow than
we need for next season's bearing; if we allow three canes to grow where
only two are needed, we waste the energies of the vine, which should all be
concentrated upon ripening its fruit in the most perfect condition, and
producing the necessary wood for next season's bearing, and that of the best
and most vigorous quality, but no more. If we prune the vine too long, we
over-tax its energies; making it bear more fruit than it can perfect, and the
result will be poor, badly-ripened fruit, and small and imperfect wood. If,
on the contrary, we prune the vine too short, we will have a rank, excessive
growth of wood and leaves, and encourage rot and mildew. Only practice
and experience will teach us the exact medium, and the observing vintner
will soon find out where he has been wrong, better than he can be taught by
a hundred pages of elaborate advice. Different varieties will require
different treatment, and it would be foolishness to suppose that two varieties
so entirely different, as for instance, the Concord and the Delaware, could
be pruned, trained and pinched in the same manner. The first, being a rank
and vigorous grower, with long joints, will require much longer pruning
than the latter, which is a slow-growing, short-jointed vine. Some varieties,
the Taylor for instance, also the Norton, will fruit better if pruned to spurs
on old wood, than on the young canes; it will therefore be the best policy
for the vintner in pruning these, to retain the old arms or canes, pruning all
the healthy, strong shoots they have to two buds, as long as the old arms

remain healthy; always, however, growing a young cane to fall back upon,
should the old arm become diseased; whereas, the Catawba and Delaware,
being only moderate growers, will flourish and bear best when pruned
short, and to a cane of last season's growth. The Concord and Herbemont,
again, will bear best on the laterals of last season's growth, and should be
trained accordingly. Therefore it is, because only a few of the common
laborers will take the pains to think and observe closely, that we find among
them but few good vine-dressers.

At the end of this season, we find our Concords or Herbemonts, with the
old fruit-bearing cane, and a spur on each side, from which have grown two
canes; one of which was stopped, like all other fruit-bearing branches, and
which we now prune to a spur of two eyes; and another, which was stopped
at about three feet, and on which the laterals were allowed to grow
unchecked. We therefore have one of these canes, with its laterals, on each
side of the vine. These laterals are now pruned precisely as the last season,
each being cut back to from four to six eyes, and the old cane, which has
borne fruit, is cut away altogether. With Norton's Virginia, Taylor, and some
others, which will bear more readily on spurs from old wood, the old cane
is retained, provided the shoots on it are sound and healthy, with well
developed buds; the weak ones are cut away altogether, and the others cut
back to two eyes each. One of the canes is pruned, as in the Concord, to be
tied to one side of the trellis, the next spring. This closes our summer and
fall pruning for the third year. Of the gathering of the fruit, as well for
market as for wine, I shall speak in another chapter.

TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE FOURTH SUMMER.

We may now consider the vine as established, able to bear a full crop,
and when tied to the trellis in spring, to present the appearance, as shown in
Fig. 13. The operations to be performed are precisely the same as in its third
year.

Fig. 13.

In addition, I will here remark, that in wet seasons the soil of the
vineyard should be stirred as little as possible, as it will bake and clog, and
in dry seasons it should be deeply worked and stirred, as this loose surface-
soil will retain moisture much better than a hard surface. Should the vines
show a decrease in vigor, they may be manured with ashes or compost, or
still better, with surface-soil from the woods. This will serve to replenish
the soil which may have been washed off and is much more beneficial than
stable manure. When the latter is applied, a small trench should be dug just
above the vine, the manure laid in, and covered with soil. But an abundance
of fresh soil, drawn up well around the vine, is certainly the best of all
manures.

Where a vine has failed to grow the first season, replant with extra strong
vines, as they will find it difficult to catch up with the others; or the vacancy
can be filled up the next season, by a layer from a neighboring vine, made
in the following manner: Dig a trench from the vine to the empty place,
about eight to ten inches deep, and bend into it one of the canes of the vine,
left to grow unchecked for that purpose, and pruned to the proper length.
Let the end of it come out to the surface of the ground with one or two eyes
above it, at the place where the vine is to be, and fill up with good, well
pulverized earth. It will strike roots at almost every joint, and grow rapidly,
but, as it takes a good deal of nourishment from the parent vine, that must
be pruned much shorter the first year. When the layer has become well
established, it is cut from the parent vine; generally the second season.

Pruning is best done in the fall, but it can be done on mild days all
through the winter months, even as late as the middle of March. Fall-
pruning will prevent all flow of sap, and the cuttings are also better if made
in the fall, and buried in the ground during winter. All the sound, well-
ripened wood of last season's growth may be made into cuttings, which may
be either planted, as directed in a former chapter, or sold; and are an
accession to the product of the vineyard not to be despised, for they will
generally defray all expenses of cultivation.

TRAINING THE VINES ON ARBORS AND WALLS.

This is altogether different from the treatment in vineyards; the first has
for its object to grow the most perfect fruit, and to bring the vine, with all
its parts, within the easy reach and control of the operator; in the latter, our
object is to cover a large space with foliage, for ornament and shade, fruit
being but a secondary consideration. However, if the vine is treated
judiciously, it will also produce a large quantity of fruit, although not of as
good quality as in the vineyard.

Fig. 14. and Fig. 15.

Our first object must be to grow very strong plants, to cover a very large
space. Prepare a border by digging a trench two feet deep and four feet
wide. Fill with rich soil, decomposed leaves, burnt bones, ashes, etc. Into

this plant the strongest plants you have, pruned as for vineyard planting.
Leave but one shoot to grow on them during the first summer, which, if
properly treated, will get very strong. Cut back to three buds the coming
fall. These will each throw out a strong shoot, which should be tied to the
arbor they are designed to cover, as shown in Figure 14, and allowed to
grow unchecked. In the fall following cut each shoot back to three buds, as
our first object must be to get a good basis for our vines. These will give us
nine canes the third summer; and as the vine is now thoroughly established
and strong, we can begin to work in good earnest. It will be perceived that
the vine has three different sections or principal branches, each with three
canes. Cut one of these back to two eyes, and the other two to six or eight
buds each, according to the strength of the vine, as shown in Figure 15. The
next spring tie these neatly to the trellis, and when the young shoots appear
thin out the weakest, and leave the others to grow unchecked. The next fall
cut back as indicated by the black cross lines, the weakest to be cut back to
one or two eyes, and the stronger ones to three or four, the spurs at the
bottom to come in as a reserve, should any of the branches become
diseased. Figure 16 shows the manner of pruning.

Fig. 16.

In this manner a vine can be made, in course of time, to cover a large
space, and get very old. The great vine at Windsor Palace was planted more

than sixty years ago, and in 1850 it produced two thousand large bunches of
magnificent grapes. The space covered by the branches was one hundred
and thirty-eight feet long, and sixteen feet wide, and it had a stem two feet
nine inches in circumference. This is one of the largest vines on record.
They should, however, be strongly manured to come to full perfection.

Other authorities prefer the Thomery system of training, but I think it
much more complicated and difficult to follow. Those wishing to follow it
will find full directions in Dr. Grant's and Fuller's books, which are very
explicit on this method.

OTHER METHODS OF TRAINING THE VINE.

There are many other systems in vogue among vine-dressers in Germany
and France, but as our native grapes are so much stronger in growth, and
are in this climate so much more subject to mildew and rot, I think these
methods, upon the whole, but poorly adapted to the wants of our native
grapes, however judicious they may be there. I will only mention a few of
them here; one because it is to a great extent followed in Mexico and
California, and seems to suit that dry climate and arid soil very well; and
the other, because it will often serve as a pretty border to beds in gardens.
The first is the so-called buck or stool method of training. The vine is made
to form its head—i.e., the part from which the branches start—about a foot
above the ground, and all the young shoots are allowed to grow, but
summer-pruned or checked just beyond the last bunch of grapes. The next
spring all of the young shoots are cut back to two eyes, and this system of
"spurring in" is kept up, and the vine will in time present the appearance of
a bush or miniature tree, producing all its fruit within a foot from the head,
and without further support than its own stem. Very old vines trained in this
manner often have twenty to twenty-five spurs, and present, with their fruit
all hanging in masses around the main trunk, a pleasing but rather odd
aspect. This method could not be applied here with any chance of success
only to those varieties which are slow growers, and at the same time very
hardy. The Delaware would perhaps be the most suitable of all varieties I
know for a trial of this method; such strong growers as the Concord and

Norton's Virginia could never be kept within the proper bounds, and it
would be useless to try it on them. It might be of advantage on poor soil,
where there is at the same time a scarcity of timber. Figure 17 shows an old
vine pruned after this method.

Fig. 17.

The other method of dwarfing the grape is practiced to make a pretty
border along walks in gardens, and is as follows: Plant your vines about
eight feet apart; treat them the first season as in common vineyard planting,
but at the end of the first season cut back to two eyes. Now provide posts,
three to three and a half feet long; drive them into the ground about
eighteen inches to two feet, which can be easily done if they are pointed at
one end, and nail a lath on top of them. This is your trellis for the vines, and
should be about eighteen inches above the ground when ready. Now allow
both shoots which will start from the two buds to grow unchecked; and
when they have grown above the trellis, tie one down to the right, the other
to the left, allowing them to ramble at will along it. The next fall they are

each cut back to the proper length, to meet the next vine, and in spring tied
firmly to the lath, as shown in Figure 18. When the young shoots appear, all
below the trellis are rubbed off, but all those above the trellis are summer-
pruned or pinched immediately beyond the last bunch of grapes, as in
vineyard culture, and the trellis, with its garland of fruit, will present a very
pretty appearance throughout the summer. In the fall all of these shoots are
pruned to one bud, from which will grow the fruit-bearing shoot for the
next season, as shown in Figure 19; and the same treatment is repeated
during the summer and fall.

Fig. 18. and Fig. 19.

DISEASES OF THE VINE.

I cannot agree with Mr. Fuller that the diseases of the vine are not
formidable in this country. They are so formidable that they threaten to
destroy some varieties altogether; and the Catawba, once the glory and
pride of the Ohio vineyards, has for the last fifteen years suffered so much
from them, that many of the grape-growers who are too narrow-minded to
try anything else are about giving up grape-growing in despair.

It is very fortunate, therefore, that we have varieties which do not suffer
from these diseases, or only in a very slight degree; and my advice to the
beginner in grape-culture would be, "not to plant largely of any variety
which is subject to disease." Men may talk about sulphuring, and dusting
their vines with sulphur through bellows; but I would rather have vines
which will bear a good crop without these windy appliances. We can

certainly find some varieties for every locality which do not need them, and
these we should plant.

The mildew is our most formidable disease, and will very often sweep
away two-thirds of a crop of Catawbas in a few days. It generally appears
here from the first to the fifteenth of June, after abundant rains, and damp,
warm weather. It seems to be a parasitic fungus, and sulphur applied by
means of a bellows, or dusted over the fruit and vine is said to be a partial
remedy. Close and early summer-pruning will do much to prevent it,
throwing, as it does, all the strength of the vine into the young fruit,
developing it rapidly, and also allowing free circulation of air. In some
varieties—for instance, the Delaware—it will only affect the leaves,
causing them to blight and drop off, after which the fruit, although it may
attain full size, will not ripen nor become sweet, but wither and drop off
prematurely. In seasons when the weather is dry and the air pure, it will not
appear. It is most prevalent in locations which have a tenacious subsoil, and
under-draining will very likely prove a partial preventive, as excess of
moisture about the roots is no doubt one of its causes.

The gray rot, or so-called grape cholera, generally follows the mildew,
and I think that the latter is the principal cause of it, as I have generally
found it on berries whose stems have been injured by the mildew. The berry
first shows a sort of gray marbling; in a day or two it turns to a grayish-blue
color, and finally withers and drops from the bunch. It will continue to
affect berries until they begin to color, but only attack a few varieties—the
Catawba, To Kalon, Kingsessing, and sometimes the Diana.

The spotted, or brown rot, will also attack many of our varieties; it is
very destructive to the Isabella and Catawba, and even the Concord is not
quite free from it. But it is, after all, not very destructive, and not half as
dangerous as the mildew or gray rot.

Early and close summer-pruning is a partial preventative against all these
diseases, as it will hasten the development of the fruit, allow free circulation
of air, and the young leaves which appear on the laterals after pinching
seem to be better able to withstand the effects of the mildew, often
remaining fresh and green, and shading the fruit, when the first growth of
leaves have already dropped.

But "an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure," and our best
preventive is to plant none but healthy varieties. A grape, however good it
may be in quality, is not fit for general cultivation if seriously affected with
any of these diseases. Nothing can be more discouraging to the grape-
grower than to see his vines one day rich in the promise of an abundant
crop, and a few days afterwards see two-thirds or three-fourths swept away
by disease. It is because I have so often felt this bitter disappointment, that I
would warn my readers against planting varieties subject to them. I would
save them from the discouragement and bitter losses which I have
experienced, when it was out of my power to prevent it. They can prevent
it, for the grape-growing of to-day is no longer the same uncertain
occupation it was ten years ago. We of to-day have our choice of varieties
not subject to disease; let us make it judiciously, and we may be sure of a
paying crop every year.

INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE GRAPE.

The grape has many enemies of this kind, but if they are closely watched
from the beginning their ravages are easily kept within proper bounds.

The common gray cut-worm will often eat the young tender shoots of the
vine, and draw them into the ground below. Wherever this is perceived the
rascal can easily be found by digging for him under some of the loose clods
of ground below the vine, and should be destroyed without mercy.

Fig. 20.
Delaware.—Berries ½ diameter.

Small worms, belonging to the family of leaf-folders, some of them
whitish gray, some bluish green, will in spring make their webs among the
young, downy leaves at the end of the shoots, eating the young bunches or
buttons, and the leaves. These can be destroyed when summer pruning for
the first time. Look close for them, as they are very small; yet very
destructive if let alone.

A small, gray beetle, of about the size and color of a hemp-seed, will
often eat a hole into the bud, when it is just swelling, and thus destroy it. He
is very shy, and will drop from the vine as soon as you come near him. It is
a good plan to spread a newspaper under the vine, and then shake it, when
he will drop on the paper and can be caught.

Another bug, of about the size of a fly, gray, with round black specks,
will sometimes pay us a visit. They will come in swarms, and eat the upper
side of the leaves, leaving only the skeletons. They are very destructive,

devouring every leaf, as far as they go; they can also be shaken off on a
paper or sheet spread under the vine.

The thrip, a small, rather three-cornered, whitish-green insect, has of late
been very troublesome, as they eat the under side of the leaves of some
varieties, especially the Delaware and Norton's Virginia, when the leaf will
show rusty specks on the surface, and finally drop off. It has been
recommended to go through the vineyard at night, one man carrying a
lighted torch, and the other beating the vines, when they will fly into the
flame, and be burnt. They are a great annoyance, and have defoliated whole
vineyards here last fall.

Another leaf-folder makes his appearance about mid-summer, making its
web on the leaf, drawing it together, and then devouring his own house. It is
a small, greenish, and very active worm, who, if he "smells a rat," will drop
out of his web, and descend to the ground in double-quick time. I know of
no other plan, than to catch him and crush his web between the finger and
thumb.

The aphis, or plant louse, often covers the young shoots of the vine,
sucking its juices. When a shoot is attacked by them, it will be best to take it
off and crush them under your feet, as the shoot is apt to be sickly
afterwards, any way.

The grape vine sphynx will be found occasionally. It is a large, green
worm, with black dots, and very voracious. Fortunately, it is not numerous,
and can easily be found and destroyed.

There are also several caterpillars—the yellow bear, the hog caterpillar,
and the blue caterpillar, which will feed upon the leaves. The only remedy I
know against them is hand picking, but they have not as yet been very
numerous, nor very destructive.

Wasps are sometimes very troublesome when the fruit ripens, stinging
the berries and sucking the juice. A great many can be caught by hanging up
bottles, with a little molasses, which they will enter, and get stuck in the
molasses.

BIRDS.

These are sometimes very troublesome at the time of ripening, and
especially the oriole is a "hard customer," as he will generally dip his bill
into every berry; often ruining a fine bunch, or a number of them, in a short
time. I have therefore been compelled to wage a war upon some of the
feathered tribe, although they are my especial favorites, and I cannot see a
bird's nest robbed. However, there are some who do not visit the vineyard,
except for the purpose of destroying our grapes, and these can not complain
if we "won't stand it any longer," but take the gun, and retaliate on them.
The oriole, the red bird, thrush, and cat bird are among the number, and
although I would like to spare the latter three, in thankful remembrance of
many a gratuitous concert, the first must take his chance of powder and
lead, for the little rascal is too aggravating. A few dry bushes, raised above
the trellis will serve as their resting place before they commence their work
of destruction, where they can be easily killed.

FROSTS.

Although our winters are seldom severe enough to destroy the hardy
varieties, yet they will often fatally injure such half hardy varieties as the
Herbemont and Cunningham, and the severe winter of 1863,-'64, killed
even the Catawba, down to the snow line, and severely injured the Norton's
Virginia, and even the Concord. Fortunately, such winters occur but rarely,
and even in localities where the vines are often destroyed by the severe cold
in winter, this should deter no one from growing grapes, as, with very little
extra labor he can protect them, and bring them safely through the winter. I
always cover my tender varieties, in fact, all that I feel not quite safe to
leave out, even in severe winters, in the following manner: The vines are
properly pruned in the fall; then select a somewhat rainy day, when the
canes will bend more easily. One man goes through the rows, and bends the
canes to the ground along the trellis, while another follows with the spade,
and throws earth enough on them to hold them in their places. Afterwards, I

run a plough through the rows, and cover them up completely. In the spring
when all danger from frost is over, I take a so-called spading fork, and lift
the vines. The entire cost of covering an acre of grape vines and taking
them up again in spring, will not exceed $10; surely a trifling expense, if we
can thereby ensure a full crop.

We have thus a protection against the cold in winter, but I know none
against early frosts, in fall, and late spring frosts; and the grape grower
should therefore avoid all localities where they are prevalent. The
immediate neighborhood of large streams, or lakes, will generally save the
grape grower from their disastrous influence; and our summers, here, along
the banks of the Missouri river, are in reality full two months longer than
they are in the low, small valleys, only four to six miles off. Let the grape
grower, in choosing a locality, look well to this, and avoid the hills along
these narrow valleys. Either choose a location sufficiently elevated, to be
beyond their influence, or, what is better still, choose it on the bluffs above
our large streams; where the atmosphere, even in the heat of summer, will
never become too dry for the health of the vine. It is a sad spectacle to see
the hopes of a whole summer frustrated by one cold night; to see the vines
which promised an abundant crop but the day before, browned and wilted
beyond all hopes of recovery, and the cheerless prospect before you, that it
may occur every spring; or to see the finest crop of grapes, when just
ripening, scorched and wilted by just one night's frost, fit for nothing but
vinegar. Therefore, look well to this, when you choose the site of your
vineyard, and rather pay five times the price for a location free from frost,
than for the richest farm along the so-called creek bottoms, or worse still,
sloughs of stagnant water.

GIRDLING THE VINE TO HASTEN MATURITY.

The practice of girdling to induce early ripening is supposed to have been
invented by Col. Buchatt, of Metz, in 1745. He claimed for it that it would
also greatly improve the quality of the fruit, as well as hasten maturity. That
it accomplishes the latter, cannot be denied; it also seems to increase the
size of the berries, but I hardly think the fruit can compare in flavor with a
well developed bunch, ripened in the natural way. As it may be of practical
value to those who grow grapes for the market, enabling them to supply
their customers a week earlier at least, and also make the fruit look better,
and be of interest to the amateur cultivator, I will describe the operation for
their benefit.

Fig. 21.
Norton's Virginia—Berries 1/3 diameter.

It can be performed either on wood of the same season's growth, or on
that of last year, but in any case only upon such as can be pruned away the
next fall. If you desire to affect the fruit of a whole arm or cane, cut away a
ring of bark by passing your knife all around it, and making another
incision from a quarter to half an inch above the first, taking out the
intermediate piece of bark clean, down to the wood. It should be performed
immediately after the fruit is set. The bunches of fruit above the incision
will become larger, and the fruit ripen and color finely, from a week to ten
days before the fruit on the other canes. Of course, the cane thus girdled,
cannot be used for the next season, and must be cut away entirely. The
result seems to be the consequence of an obstruction to the downward flow
of the sap, which then develops the fruit much faster.

Ripening can also be hastened by planting against the south side of a wall
or board fence, when the reflection of the rays of the sun will create a
greater degree of warmth.

But nothing can be so absurd and unnatural than the practice of some,
who will take away the leaves from the fruit, to hasten its ripening. The
leaves are the lungs of the plants; the conductors and elevators of sap; and
nothing can be more injurious than to take them away from the fruit at the
very time when they are most needed. The consequence of such an unwise
course will be the wilting and withering of the bunches, and, should they
ripen at all, they will be deficient in flavor. Good fruit must ripen in the
shade, only thus will it attain its full perfection.

Another practice very injurious to the vines is still in practice in some
vineyards, and cannot be too strongly condemned. It is the so-called
"cutting in" of the young growth in August. Those who practice it, seem to
labor under the misapprehension that the young canes, after they have
reached the top of the trellis, and are of the proper length and strength for
their next year's crop, do not need that part of the young growth beyond
these limits any more, and that all the surplus growth is "of evil." Under the
influence of this idea they arm themselves with a villainous looking thing
called a bill-hook, and cut and slash away at the young growth
unmercifully, taking away one-half of the leaves and young wood at one fell
swoop. The consequence is a stagnation of sap: the wood they have left,

cannot, and ought not to ripen perfectly, and if anything like a cold winter
follows, the vines will either be killed entirely, or very much injured at
least. The intelligent vine dresser will tie his young canes, away from the
bearing wood as much as he can, to give the fruit the fullest ventilation; but
when they have reached the top of the trellis, tie them along it and let them
ramble as they please. They will thus form a natural roof over the fruit, keep
off all injurious dews, and shade the grapes from above. There is nothing
more pleasing to the eye than a vineyard in September, with its wealth of
dark green foliage above, and its purple clusters of fruit beneath, coyly
peeping from under their leafy covering. Such grapes will have an exquisite
bloom, and color, as well as thin skin and rich flavor, which those hanging
in the scorching rays of the sun can never attain.

MANURING THE VINE.

As remarked before, this will seldom be necessary, if the vintner is
careful enough to guard against washing of the top-soil, and to turn under
all leaves, etc., with the plow in the Fall. The best manure is undoubtedly
fresh surface soil from the woods. Should the vines, however, show a
material decrease in vigor, it may become necessary to use a top-dressing of
decomposed leaves, ashes, bone-dust, charcoal, etc. Fresh stable-yard
manure I would consider the last, and only to be used when nothing better
can be obtained. Turn under with the plow, as soon as the manure is spread.
Nothing, I think, is more injurious than the continual drenching with slops,
dish-water, etc., which some good souls of housewives are fond of
bestowing on their pet grape vines in the garden. It creates a rank,
unwholesome growth, and will cause mildew and rot, if anything can.

THINNING OF THE FRUIT.

This will sometimes be necessary, to more fully develop the bunches.
The best thinning is the reduction of the number of bunches at the time of
the first summer pruning. If a vine shows more fruit, than the vine dresser

thinks it can well ripen, take away all weak and imperfect shoots, and also
all the small and imperfect bunches. If the number of bunches on the fruit
bearing branches is reduced to two on each, it will be no injury, but make
the remaining number of bunches so much more perfect. Thinning out the
berries on the bunches, although it will serve to make the remaining berries
more perfect and larger, is still a very laborious process, and will hardly be
followed to any extent in vineyards, although it can well be practised on the
few pet vines of the amateur, and will certainly heighten the beauty of the
bunches and berries.

RENEWING OLD VINES.

Should a vine become old and feeble, it can be renewed by layering. The
vine is prepared in the following manner: Prune all the old wood away,
leaving but one of the most vigorous of your canes; then dig a trench from
the vine along the trellis, say three feet long, eight inches deep; into this
bend down the old vine, stump, head and all, fastening it down with a
strong hook, if necessary, letting the end of the young cane come out about
three eyes above the ground, and fill up with rich, well pulverized soil. The
vine will make new roots at every joint, and become vigorous, and, so to
say, young, again. Some recommend this process for young vines, the first
year after planting; but if good plants have been chosen and planted, it will
not be necessary. Feeble and poor plants may need this process, but if plants
have good strong roots when planted, (and only such should be planted
when they can be obtained), they will not be benefited by it.

A FEW NECESSARY IMPROVEMENTS.

Pruning Shears. These are very handy, and with them the work can be
done quicker, and with less labor, as but a slight pressure of the hand will
cut a strong vine. Fig. 22 will show the shape of one for heavy pruning.
They are made by J. T. Henry, Hampden, Connecticut, and can be had in
almost all hardware stores. The springs should be of brass, as steel springs

are very apt to break. A much lighter and smaller kind, with but one spring,
is very convenient for gathering grapes, as it will cut the stem easily and
smoothly, and not shake the vine, as cutting with the knife will do. They are
also handy to clip out unripe and rotten berries, and should be generally
used instead of knives.

Fig. 22.

Pruning Saws. It will sometimes be necessary to use these, to cut out old
stumps, etc., although, if a vine is well managed, it will seldom be
necessary. Fig. 23 will show a kind which is very convenient for the
purpose, and will also serve for orchard pruning; the blade is narrow,
connected with the handle, and can be turned in any direction.

Fig. 23.

GATHERING THE FRUIT FOR MARKET.

In this, the vineyardist, of course, only aims at profit, and for that purpose
the grapes are often gathered when they are hardly colored—long before
they are really ripe—because the public will generally buy them at a high

price. Let us hope, however, that better taste will in time prevail, and that
even a majority of the public will learn to appreciate the difference between
ripe and unripe fruit. I would advise my readers at least to wait until the
fruit is fully and evenly colored; for it is our duty to do all we can to correct
this vicious leaning towards swallowing unripe fruit, which is so prevalent
in this nation, and the producer will not lose anything either, because his
fruit will look much better, it will therefore bring the same price which half
ripened fruit would have brought, even a week sooner, and will weigh
heavier. Every grape will generally color full two weeks before it is fully
ripe; and as they are one of the fruits that will not ripen after they are
gathered, they will shrivel and look indifferent if gathered before.

To ship them to market any distance, they should be packed in low,
shallow boxes, say six inches high, so that they will hold about two layers
of grapes. Cut the branches carefully, with as long a stem as possible, for
more convenient handling, taking care to preserve all the bloom, and
clipping out all the unripe berries. They are generally weighed in the basket
before packing. Now put a layer of vine leaves on the bottom of the box;
then make a layer of grapes, laying them as close as possible; then put a
layer of leaves over them; on them put another layer of grapes, filling up
evenly; then spread leaves rather thickly over them, and nail on the cover.
The box should be perforated with holes, to admit some air. The grapes
must be perfectly dry when gathered, and the box should be well filled to
prevent shaking and bruising.

PRESERVING THE FRUIT.

For this purpose, the fruit must be thoroughly ripe. When fully ripe, the
stem will turn brown, and shrivel somewhat. The fruit is then carefully
gathered, and laid upon a dry floor, or shelves, for a day or two, so that
some of the moisture will evaporate. They can then be packed in boxes, in
about the same manner as described before, but paper will be better than
leaves for this purpose. They are then put away on shelves, in an airy room,
which must, however, be free from frost, in an even temperature of from

30° to 40°. They should be examined from time to time, and the decayed
berries taken out. They may thus be kept for several months.

GATHERING THE FRUIT TO MAKE WINE.

For this purpose, the grapes should hang as long as it is safe to allow
them; for it will make a very material difference in the quality of the wine,
as the water will evaporate, and only the sugar remain; and the flavor or the
bouquet will only be fully developed in fully ripened fruit. For gathering,
use clean tin or wooden pails; cut the stems as short as possible, and clip or
pinch out all unripe or rotten berries, leaving none but fully ripe berries on
the bunch. The further process will be described under "wine making."

VARIETIES OF GRAPES.

I would here, again remark, that I consider the question of "what to plant"
as chiefly a local one, for which I do not presume to lay down fixed rules;
but which every one must, to a certain extent, determine for himself, by
visiting vineyards as nearly similar in soil and location to the one he intends
to plant, and then closely observing the habits of the varieties after planting.
Only thus can we obtain certain results; not by following blindly in the
footsteps of so-called authorities, who may live a hundred, or a thousand
miles from us, and whose success with certain varieties, on soil entirely
different from ours, under different atmospheric influences, can by no
means be taken by us as evidence of our success under other circumstances.

Class 1.—Varieties most generally used.

CONCORD.

Originated with Mr. E. Bull, of Concord, Mass. This variety seems to be
the choice of the majority throughout the country, and however much
opinions may differ about its quality, nobody seems to question its
hardiness, productiveness, health and value as a market fruit. Here it is of
very good quality—and our Eastern brethren have no idea what a really
well ripened Missouri grown Concord grape is. It seems to become better
the further it is grown West and South; an observation which I think applies
with equal force to the Hartford Prolific, Norton's Virginia, Herbemont and
others.

Bunch large, heavy shouldered—somewhat compact; berries large,
round, black, with blue bloom; buttery, sweet and rich here, when well
ripened; with very thin skin and tender pulp. A strong and vigorous grower;
with healthy, hardy foliage; free from mildew, and but slightly subject to
rot; succeeds well in almost any soil; and is, so far, the most profitable
grape we grow. A fine market fruit, and also makes a fine, light red wine,
which is generally preferred to the Catawba. Can be easily grown from
cuttings.

NORTON'S VIRGINIA, (NORTON'S SEEDLING, VIRGINIA
SEEDLING).

Originated by Dr. N. Norton, of Richmond, Virginia. This grape has
opened a new era in American grape culture, and every successive year but
adds to its reputation. While the wine of the Catawba is often compared to
Hock, in the wine of Norton's Virginia, we have one of an entirely different
character; and it is a conceded fact that the best red wines of Europe are
surpassed by the Norton as an astringent, dark red wine, of great body, fine
flavor, and superior medical quality. Vine vigorous and hardy, productive;
starting a week later in the Spring than the Catawba, yet coloring a week
sooner; and will succeed in almost any soil, although producing the richest
wine in warm, southern aspects. Bunches medium, compact; berries small,
black, sweet and rich; with dark bluish red juice; only moderately juicy.
Healthy in all locations, as far as I know, but I doubt its utility in the East,
as I do not think the summers warm and long enough. Seems to attain its
greatest perfection in Missouri, but is universally esteemed in the West.
Very difficult to propagate, as it will hardly grow from cuttings in open air.

Fig. 24.
Herbemont.—Berries 1/3 diameter.

HERBEMONT (HERBEMONT MADEIRA, WARREN).

Origin uncertain. Wherever this noble grape will succeed and fully ripen,
it is hard to find a better, for table, as well as for wine. Its home seems to be
the South; and I think it will become one of the leading varieties, as soon as
the new order of things has been fully established, and free, intelligent labor
has taken the place of the drudging, dull toil of the slave. It is particularly
fond of warm, southern exposures, with light limestone soil, and it would be
useless to plant it on soil retentive of moisture. Bunch long, large
shouldered and compact; berry medium, black, with blue bloom—"bags of
wine," as Downing fitly calls them; skin thin, sweet flesh, without pulp,
juicy and high flavored, never clogs the palate; fine for the table, and makes

an excellent wine, which should be pressed immediately after mashing the
grapes, when it will be white, and of an exquisite flavor; generally ripens
about same time as Catawba. A very vigorous and healthy grower, but
tender in rich soils, and should be protected in winter. Extremely
productive.

HARTFORD PROLIFIC.

Raised by Mr. Steel, of Hartford, Conn.: hardy, vigorous and productive;
bunch large, shouldered, rather compact; berry full medium, globular, with
a perceptible foxy flavor; skin thick, black, covered with blue bloom; flesh
sweet, juicy; much better here than at the East; of very fair quality for its
time of ripening; hangs well to the bunch here, although said to drop at the
East. For market, this is perhaps as profitable as any variety known, as it
ripens very early and uniformly, producing immense crops. I have made
wine from it, which, although not of very high character, yet ranks as fair.

CLINTON.

Origin uncertain; from Western New York; vigorous, hardy and
productive; free from disease; bunch medium, long and narrow, generally
shouldered, compact; berry medium, roundish oblong, black, covered with
bloom; juicy; somewhat acid; colors early, but should hang late to become
thoroughly ripe; brisk vinous flavor, but somewhat of the aroma of the frost
grape; makes a dark red wine, of good body, and much resembling claret,
but not equal to Norton's Virginia, or even the Concord, in my estimation.
Although safe and reliable, I think it has lately been over praised as a wine
grape, and as it is a very long, straggling grower, it is one of the hardest
vines to keep under control. Propagates with the greatest ease.

DELAWARE.

First disseminated and made known to the public by Mr. A. Thompson, of
Delaware, Ohio. This is claimed by many to be the best American grape;
and although I am inclined to doubt this, and prefer, for my taste, a well
ripened Herbemont, it is certainly a very fine fruit. Unfortunately, it is very
particular in its choice of soil and location, and it seems as if there are very
few locations at the West where it will succeed. Whoever has a location,
however, where it will grow vigorously and hold its leaves, will do well to
plant it almost exclusively, as it makes a wine of very high character, and is
very productive. A light, warm soil seems to be the first requisite, and the
bluffs on the north side of the Missouri river seem to be peculiarly adapted
to it, while it will not flourish on those on the south side. Bunch small,
compact, and generally shouldered; berry below medium, round; skin thin,
of a beautiful flesh-color, covered with a lilac bloom; very translucent; pulp
sweet and tender, vinous and delicious; wood very firm; short-jointed;
somewhat difficult to propagate, though not so much so as Norton's
Virginia. Subject in many locations, to leaf-blight, and is there a very slow
grower. Fine for the table, and makes an excellent white wine, equal to, if
not superior, to the best Rhenish wines, which sells readily at from five to
six dollars per gallon. Although I cannot recommend it for general
cultivation, it should be tried every where, and planted extensively where it
will succeed. Ripens about five days later than Hartford Prolific.

Class 2.—Healthy varieties promising well.

CYNTHIANA (RED RIVER).

Origin unknown—said to come from Arkansas. This grape promises fair
to become a dangerous rival to Norton's Virginia, which variety it resembles
so closely in wood and foliage, that it is difficult if not impossible to
distinguish it from that variety. The bunch and berry are of the same color
as Norton's Virginia, but somewhat larger, and more juicy; sweeter, with not

quite as much astringency, and perhaps a few days earlier. Makes an
excellent dark red wine, with not as much astringency, but even more
delicate aroma, and was pronounced the "best red wine on exhibition," at
the last meeting of the State Horticultural Society, where it was in
competition with eight samples of the Norton's Virginia. A strong grower,
and productive; as difficult to propagate as the Norton. Mr. Fuller
evidently has not the true variety, when he calls it worthless, and identical
with the Chippewa and Missouri, from both of which it is entirely distinct.

ARKANSAS.

Closely resembles the foregoing, and will also make an excellent wine of
a similar character. I consider both of these varieties as great acquisitions,
as they are perfectly healthy, very productive, and will make a wine
unsurpassed in merit by any of their class.

TAYLOR (BULLITT.)

This grape, under proper treatment, has proved very productive with me,
and will make a wine of very high quality. The bunches and berries are
small, it is true; but not much more so than the Delaware; it also sets its
fruit well, and as it is hardy, healthy, and a strong grower, it promises to be
one of our leading wine grapes. Bunches small, but compact, shouldered;
berry small; white at the East; pale flesh-color here; round, sweet, and
without pulp; skin very thin. Requires long pruning on spurs, to bring out its
fruitfulness.

Fig. 25.
Hartford Prolific.—Berries ½ diameter.

MARTHA.

This new grape, grown from the seed of the Concord, by that enthusiastic
and warm-hearted horticulturist, Samuel Miller, of Lebanon, Pa., promises
to be one of the greatest acquisitions to our list of really hardy and good
grapes, which have lately come before the public. It has fruited with me the
last extremely unfavorable season, and has stood the hardest test any grape
could be put to, without flinching. Bunch medium, but compact and heavy,
shouldered; berry pale yellow, covered with a white bloom; perhaps a trifle
smaller than the Concord; round; pulpy, but sweet as honey, with only
enough of the foxy aroma to give it character; juicy—very good. I esteem it

more highly than any other white grape I have, as it has the healthy habit
and vigorous growth of its parent, and promises to make an excellent white
wine. Hangs to the bunch well, and will ripen some days before the
Concord.

MAXATAWNEY.

Another very promising white grape—a strong grower, and healthy; may
be somewhat too late in the east, but will, I think, be valuable at the West
and South. Bunch medium to large—-not shouldered; berry above medium;
oval; pale yellow, with a slight amber tint on one side; pulp tender, sweet
and sprightly; few seeds; fine aroma; quality, best. Ripens about same time
as Catawba; seems to be productive.

ROGERS' HYBRID, NO. 1.

This variety, which is also too late in ripening for the East, to be much
esteemed there, fruited with me last season, and more than fulfilled all the
expectations I entertained of it. It is the best of Mr. Rogers' Hybrids, which
I have yet tasted; and its productiveness, healthy habit, large berry, and
good quality, makes it one of the most desirable of all the grapes we raise
here, for the table and market. Bunch medium, loose, shouldered; berry
very large, oblong, pale flesh-color; skin thin; pulp tender; few seeds,
separating freely from the pulp; sweet, vinous and juicy; quality very good.
Ripens about same time as Catawba. It is to be regretted that Mr. Rogers
has not named some of the best of his hybrids, as the numbers give rise to
many mistakes, and a great deal of confusion. It would be in the interest of
grape-growing if this was avoided, by naming at least the best of them.

CREVELING, (CATAWISSA) (BLOOM).

This grape, although not quite perhaps so early as has been claimed for it
—ripening about five days after Hartford Prolific—is yet of much better
quality; and if it only should prove productive enough, will no doubt make
an excellent wine. Bunch long, loose, shouldered; berry full medium, black,
round, with little bloom; pulp tender; dark juice, sweet and very good—
seems to be hardy and healthy.

NORTH CAROLINA SEEDLING.

Bunch large, shouldered, compact; berry large, oblong, black, with blue
bloom; pulpy, but sweet and good; ripens only a few days after Hartford
Prolific—very productive, hardy and healthy; strong grower. One of the
most showy market grapes we have—not much smaller than Union Village
—and as it ripens evenly, and is of very fair quality, is quite a favorite in the
market. Makes also a wine of very fair quality.

CUNNINGHAM.

For the West, and very likely further South, this is a very desirable grape
for wine, of the Herbemont class. Bunch compact and heavy, sometimes
shouldered; berry rather small, black, without pulp, juicy sweet and good;
productive, but somewhat tender; strong grower; should be covered in
Winter; makes a very delicious wine, of the Madeira class, which very often
remains sweet for a whole year. Ripens late, about a week after the
Catawba.

RULANDER.

Mr. Fuller evidently does not know this grape, as he says it is the same
as Logan. The Rulander we have here, is claimed to be a true foreign
variety. I am inclined to think, however, that it is either a seedling from

foreign seed, raised in the country, or one of the Southern grapes of the
Herbemont class. Be this as it may however, it certainly bears no
resemblance to the Logan, which is a true Fox, of the Labrusca family. Vine
a strong, vigorous, short-jointed grower, with heart-shaped, light green,
smooth leaves; very healthy, and more hardy than either the Herbemont or
Cunningham. Bunch rather small, very compact, shouldered; berry small,
black, without pulp, juicy sweet and delicious; not subject to rot or mildew:
makes a delicious, high flavored wine, but not a great deal of it. The wine of
this variety is certainly one of the most delicate and valuable ones we have
yet made here and on the soil around Hermann, it will, I think, take
preference over the Delaware. Ripens a few days later than Concord.

LOUISIANA (BURGUNDER).

Introduced here by Mr. F. Muench, who received it from Mr. Theard, of
Louisiana, where it has been cultivated for some time. Some claim that it is
the grape which makes the famous white Burgundy wine of Europe. I am
inclined to think it is also a native, grown from foreign seed, like the
foregoing, which it closely resembles in foliage and wood; but will, I think,
make a wine of still higher quality, perhaps the most delicate white wine we
yet have. It can hardly be distinguished from the Rulander in appearance,
but has a more sprightly flavor. Ripens at the same time.

ALVEY (HAGAR).

This nice little grape will certainly make one of the most delicious red
wines we have, if it can only be raised in sufficient quantity. It is healthy
and moderately productive, but a slow grower. Bunch loose, small,
shouldered; berry small, black, without pulp, juicy, sweet and delicious;
quality best. Ripens about the same time as the Concord.

CASSADY.

Bunch medium, very compact, shouldered; berry medium, round,
greenish-white, covered with white bloom; thick skin, pulpy, but very
sweet, and of fine flavor; makes an excellent white wine; very productive,
but somewhat subject to leaf-blight in wet seasons; does not rot or mildew.

Fig. 26.
Concord.—Berries ½ diameter.

BLOOD'S BLACK.

Has often been confounded with Mary Ann, as both varieties were
disseminated here, by different persons, under the same name. The true
Blood's Black is a few days later than Hartford Prolific; bunch heavy and
compact, shouldered; berry round, black, full medium, of very fair quality,
and an excellent early market grape. The vine is healthy, hardy, and
enormously productive.

UNION VILLAGE.

Perhaps the largest native grape, of fair quality; bunch large, heavy and
compact, shouldered; berry very large, oval, black, with blue bloom, pulpy,
but juicy, sweet and good. Of better quality here than Isabella; tolerably free
from disease, and a splendid market and table fruit. Ripens rather late.

PERKINS.

For those who do not object to a good deal of foxy flavor, this will be a
valuable market grape, on account of its earliness, beautiful color, and great
productiveness. Mr. Fuller has evidently not the true variety, as he
describes it as a "black grape, sour and worthless."

Bunch medium, compact, shouldered; berry full medium, oval, flesh-
color, with a beautiful lilac bloom; very sweet, pulpy and foxy. Ripens at
same time with Hartford Prolific. Vine a strong grower, healthy and hardy.

CLARA.

For family use, there is at present no grape here at the West, which is
superior to this in quality; and although it will not pay to plant largely,
either for market or wine, yet no one who can appreciate a really good
grape, should be without a few vines of it at least.

Bunch long, rather loose, shouldered; berry medium, pale yellow,
translucent, without pulp, sweet, juicy, and of excellent flavor; vine
moderately productive and healthy. Ripens with Catawba.

IVES' SEEDLING, (IVES' MADEIRA).

This variety is recommended so much lately, as a superior grape for red
wine, that I will mention it here, although I have not yet fruited it. It was
first introduced by Col. Waring, of Hamilton County, Ohio, and is said to
be free from rot, healthy and vigorous, and to make an excellent red wine,
the must having sold from the press at $4 to $5 per gallon. The following
description is from bunches sent me from Ohio last fall:

Bunch medium, compact, shouldered; berry rather below medium, black,
oblong, juicy, sweet and well flavored; ripens about the time of the
Concord. Vine vigorous and healthy; said to propagate with the greatest
ease; evidently belonging to the Labrusca species.

We have a seedling here of the Norton's Virginia, raised by Mr. F.
Langendorfer, of this neighborhood, which promises to be a valuable wine
grape for this location. It has not yet been named, and the owner says will
never receive a name, unless it proves, in some respect, superior to anything
we have yet. He has fruited it twice, and made wine from it the last season,
which is of a very high character, resembling Madeira, of a brownish-
yellow color; splendid flavor, and of great body. The vine is a strong
grower, healthy and very productive; bunch long, seldom shouldered, very
compact; berry small, black, with blue bloom; only moderately juicy, and
ripens a week later than its parent. I am inclined to think that it will be of
great value here and further south as a wine grape, although it would ripen
too late to suit the climate further north.

It may be expected here that I should speak of the Iona, Israella, and
Adirondac, as many, and good authorities too, think they will be very
valuable. The Iona and Israella have fruited but once with me, last summer,
and my experience, therefore, has not been long enough to warrant a
decided opinion. As far as it goes, however, it has been decidedly
unfavorable. My Iona vine set about twenty five bunches, but mildewed and
rotted so badly, that I hardly saved as many berries. It may improve in time,
but I hardly think it will do for our soil; whatever it may do for others—and
I cannot put it down as "promising well." It is a grape of fine quality, where
it will succeed. The Israella stood the climate and bad weather bravely, but
ripened at least five days later than the Hartford Prolific close by, and was
not as good in quality as that grape; in fact, the most insipid and tasteless

grape I ever tried. They may both improve, however, upon closer
acquaintance, or be better in other locations. Here, I do not feel warranted
in praising them, and a description will hardly be needed, as their originator
has taken good care to so fully bring their merits, real or imaginary, before
the grape-growing community, that it would be superfluous for me to
describe them.

The Adirondac I saw and much admired at the East, in 1863; and if its
originator, Mr. Bailey, had only been liberal enough to furnish me with a
scion of two eyes, for which I offered to pay him at the rate of a dollar per
eye, I would, perhaps, be able to report about it. Instead of the scion, he sent
me a dried up vine, which had no life in it when I received it, and in
consequence of these disadvantages, I have not been able to fruit it yet. It
seems to be healthy and vigorous, however; and should the quality of the
fruit be the same as at the East, may be a valuable acquisition.

On this list I have only mentioned those which have fruited here from
four to five years, with very few exceptions, and which have generally,
during that time, proved successful. To fully warrant the recommendation of
a grape for general cultivation I think, we should have fruited it at least five
or six years; and although there are many on this list which I should not
hesitate to plant largely, yet I have preferred to be rather a little over
cautious than too sanguine.

Class 3.—Healthy varieties, but inferior in quality.

MINOR SEEDLING, (VENANGO).

This grape has attracted some attention lately—some persons claiming
for it superior qualities as a wine grape, even classing it with the Delaware,
a statement which I cannot believe. It is a rank Fox, and I can therefore
hardly think it will make a wine to suit a fastidious palate.

Bunch medium, very compact, sometimes shouldered; berry full medium,
pale red, round, sweet, but very pulpy and foxy. Ripens later than Catawba;
is very productive, vigorous and healthy—not subject to rot.

Fig. 27.
Creveling.—Berries ½ diameter.

MARY ANN.

The earliest grape we have—healthy, hardy and productive—but in point
of quality, a rather poor Isabella, which it much resembles.

Bunch full medium, moderately compact, shouldered; berry medium,
oval, black, pulpy, with a good deal of acidity, and strong flavor. Ripens

about four to five days before the Hartford Prolific, but is much inferior to
that variety in quality.

NORTHERN MUSCADINE.

Very productive and healthy, but too foxy, and liable to drop from the
bunch when ripe.

Bunch medium, compact, sometimes shouldered; berry round, brown,
sweet, very foxy—pulpy. Ripens about five days later than Hartford
Prolific.

LOGAN.

Ripens about same time with Hartford Prolific—but rather inferior in
quality. Bunch long, loose, shouldered; berry medium, oval; resembling
Isabella.

BROWN.

Resembling Isabella, but more free from disease; good grower and
productive; will suit those who like the Isabella.

HYDE'S ELIZA, (CANBY'S AUGUST).

Bunch medium, compact; berry medium, round, black, juicy; rather
pleasant, but unproductive, and of little value, where better varieties can be
had.

MARION PORT.

Resembles the foregoing; may, perhaps, make a better wine, but cannot
be recommended.

POESCHEL'S MAMMOTH.

Grown here, from seed of the Mammoth Catawba, by Mr. Michael
Poeschel.

Bunch medium, compact, sometimes shouldered; berry very large, round,
pale red, pulpy; rather deficient in flavor, but very large; free from disease.
Ripens a week later than Catawba.

CAPE (ALEXANDER, SCHUYLKILL MUSCADELL).

Bunch rather small, compact; berry medium, black, round, pulpy, rather
sweet, dark juice. Said to make a good red wine, but my experience has not
been favorable. Ripens late—a week after the Catawba.

DRACUT AMBER.

A Fox Grape, pale red, pulpy, inferior in quality and color to Perkins,
which it closely resembles; ripens about same time.

ELSINBURGH, (MISSOURI BIRD'S EYE).

This old variety was largely disseminated under the latter name, by
Nicholas Longworth, of Cincinnati. It is a nice little grape; but too

unproductive to be of any value here, although it makes a very superior
wine. Bunch long and loose, shouldered; berry small, round, black,
moderately juicy, with little pulp, sweet and good. Ripens a week before the
Catawba.

GARBER'S ALBINO.

A grape of very fair quality, and rather early, but a shy bearer. Bunch
small, rather loose; berry medium, pale yellow, sweet and good.

FRANKLIN.

A strong grower; said to be very productive; resembling Clinton in
foliage and general habit. Bunch small, compact; berry below medium,
black, juicy, with a marked frost grape flavor, and hardly worthy of
cultivation.

LENOIR.

Of the Herbemont class, but about a week earlier; of good quality, but too
unproductive to be recommended. Bunch medium, compact, shouldered;
berry small, round, black, sweet and good.

NORTH AMERICA.

Early and hardy, but too unproductive, and bunch too small. Bunch small,
shouldered; berry round; of very good quality for its season; black, juicy.
Ripens as early as Hartford Prolific.

Class 4.—Varieties of good quality, but subject to disease.

CATAWBA.

This well known grape was brought into notice by Major Adlum, of
Georgetown, D.C., who thought he had, by its introduction, conferred a
greater boon upon the American people, than if he had paid the national
debt. For the last ten years, it has been so much subject to disease, that it
cannot be recommended any longer, except for some peculiar locations. It is
said to be healthy in northern Illinois and Iowa, where it will not stand the
winter, however, without protection.

Bunch large, moderately compact, shouldered; berry medium, red,
covered with lilac bloom; juicy, pulpy, sweet, somewhat astringent, of good
flavor. A fair grape for the table, and makes a good wine, resembling Hock,
but subject to mildew, rot and leaf-blight.

DIANA.

A seedling of the foregoing, raised by Mrs. Diana Crehore. Perhaps one
of the most variable of all the grapes, being very fine one season, and very
indifferent the next. Bunch large and long, compact, shouldered; berry pale
red, round, somewhat pulpy; thick skin; juicy and sweet, with a peculiar
flavor, which Dr. Warder very aptly calls "feline;" others call it "delicate."
Very productive, but subject to leaf-blight, mildew and rot; although
perhaps not so much as the Catawba. Ripens about a week earlier.

ISABELLA.

Unworthy of cultivation here, but said to be better at the North. Bunch
long, loose, shouldered; berry medium, oval, black; tough pulp, with a good
deal of acidity, juicy, and a peculiar flavor. Ripens irregularly. Subject to rot
and leaf-blight.

GARRIGUES.

Closely resembling the Isabella, but ripens more evenly, and is of
somewhat better quality.

TOKALON.

Bunch large, loose, shouldered; berry black, large, sweet and buttery; of
very good quality, but very much subject to disease. Ripens somewhat later
than Catawba.

ANNA.

Bunch large and loose; berry pale amber, covered with white bloom;
sweet, tolerable flavor, but poor bearer, and subject to mildew. Ripens about
same time as Catawba.

ALLEN'S HYBRID, (ALLEN'S WHITE HYBRID).

Bunch large and loose, shouldered; berry medium, nearly round; white,
without pulp, juicy and delicious; quality very good, but variable;
sometimes best. Said to be a hybrid of Vitis Labrusca and a foreign grape,
raised by J. F. Allen, Salem, Massachusetts, and is really a fine grape,

although too tender and variable for extensive vineyard culture. Ripens
about two weeks before Catawba.

CUYAHOGA (COLEMAN'S WHITE).

Much recommended in Ohio, where it originated, but unworthy of
culture here, being a poor grower, a shy bearer and very much subject to
leaf-blight. Bunch medium, compact; berry dirty greenish-white; thick skin;
pulpy, and insipid.

DEVEREAUX.

This is, in dry seasons, a really fine grape, but subject to leaf-blight and
mildew in hot seasons. Bunch often a foot long, loose, shouldered; berry
below medium, round, black, juicy; without pulp, sweet and vinous.
Belonging to the Herbemont family; is a strong grower; very productive,
and rather tender. May be valuable in well drained soils, and southern
climate, as it undoubtedly will make a fine wine.

KINGSESSING.

Bunch long and loose, large, shouldered; berry medium, round, pale red,
with fine lilac bloom; pulpy; of fair quality, but subject to leaf-blight, and
mildew.

ROGERS' HYBRID, NO. 15.

Bunch large, loose, shouldered; berry above medium, red with blue
bloom, roundish-oblong, pulpy, with peculiar flavor, sweet and juicy. A

showy grape, but not very good in quality, and much subject to mildew and
rot. Ripens at the same time with Catawba.

Class 5.—Varieties unworthy of cultivation.

OPORTO.

Of all the humbugs ever perpetrated upon the grape-growing public, this
is one of the most glaring. The vine, although a rank and healthy grower, is
unproductive; seldom setting more than half a dozen berries on a bunch,
and these are so sour, have such a hard pulp, with such a decided frost-
grape taste and flavor, and are so deficient in juice, that no sensible man
should think of making them into wine, much less call it, as its disseminator
did, "the true port wine grape."

MASSACHUSETTS WHITE.

This was sent me some eight years ago, by B. M. Watson, as "the best
and hardiest white grape in cultivation," and he charged me the moderate
sum of $5 each, for small pot plants, with hardly two eyes of ripened wood.
After careful nursing of three years, I had the pleasure of seeing my labors
rewarded by a moderate crop of the vilest red Fox Grapes it has ever been
my ill luck to try.

The foregoing have all been tried by me, and have been characterized and
classified as I have found them here. The following are varieties I have not
fruited yet, although I have them on trial.

Varieties highly recommended by good authorities: Telegraph, Black
Hawk, Rogers' Hybrids, Nos. 3, 4, 6, 9, 12, 13, 19, 22, 33, Hettie, Lydia,

Charlotte, Mottled, Pauline, Wilmington, Cotaction and Miles.

There are innumerable other varieties, for which their originators all
claim peculiar merits, and some of whom may prove valuable. But all who
bring new varieties before the public, should consider that we have already
names enough, nay, more than are good for us, and that it is useless to swell
the list still more, unless we can do so with a variety, superior in some
respects to our best varieties. A new grape, to claim favor at the hands of the
public, should be healthy, hardy, a good grower, and productive; and of
superior quality, either for the table or for wine.

There are some varieties circulated throughout the country as natives,
which are really nothing but foreign varieties, or, perhaps, raised from
foreign seed. They will not succeed in open air, although now and then they
will ripen a bunch. The Brinkle, Canadian Chief, Child's Superb, and El
Paso belong to this class.

A really good table grape should have a large amount of sugar, but
tempered and made more agreeable by a due proportion of acid, as, if the
acid is wanting, it will taste insipid; a tender pulp, agreeable flavor, a large
amount of juice, a good sized bunch, large berry, small seeds, thin skin, and
hang well to the bunch.

A good wine grape should have a large amount of sugar, with the acid in
due proportion, a distinctive flavor or aroma; though not so strong as to
become disagreeable, and for red wines a certain amount of astringency. It
is an old vintner's rule, that the varieties with small berries will generally
make the best wine, as they are generally richer in sugar, and have more
character than varieties with larger berries.

Fig. 28.
Clara.—Berries ½ diameter.

WINE-MAKING.

GATHERING THE GRAPES.

Although I have described the process already, I will here again reiterate
that the grapes should be thoroughly ripe. This does not simply mean that
they are well colored. The Concord generally begins to color here the 5th of
August, and we could gather the majority of our grapes, of that variety, for
market, by the 15th or 20th of that month; but for wine-making we allow
them to hang until the 15th or 20th of September, and sometimes into
October. Thus only do we get the full amount of sugar and delicacy of
aroma which that grape is capable of developing, as the water evaporates,
and the sugar remains; it also loses nearly all the acidity from its pulp; and
the latter, which is so tough and hard immediately after coloring, nearly all
dissolves and becomes tender. The best evidences of a grape being
thoroughly ripe are: 1st. The stem turns brown, and begins to shrivel; 2nd,
the berry begins to shrivel around the stem; 3d, thin and transparent skin;
4th, the juice becomes very sweet, and sticks to the finger like honey or
molasses, after handling the grapes for some time.

It is often the case that some bunches ripen much later on the vines. In
such a case, the ripest should be gathered first, and those that are not fully
ripe remain on the vines until mature. They will ripen much quicker if the
ripest bunches have been removed first.

The first implements needed for the gathering are clean wooden and tin
pails and sharp knives, or better still, the small shears spoken of in a former
part of this work. Each gatherer is provided with a pail, or two may go
together, having a pail each, so that one can empty and the other keep filling
during the time. If there are a good many unripe berries on the bunches,

they may be put into a separate pail, and all that are soft will give an
inferior wine. The bunch is cut with as short a stem as possible, as the stem
contains a great deal of acid and astringency; every unripe or decayed berry
is picked out, so that nothing but perfectly sound, ripe berries remain.

Fig. 29.

The next implement that we need is a wooden tub or vat, to carry the
grapes to the mill; or the wagon, if the vineyard is any distance from the
cellar. This is made of thin boards, half-inch pine lumber generally; 3 feet
high inside, 10 inches wide at the bottom, 20 inches wide at the top, being
flat on one side, where it is carried on the back, and bound with thin iron
hoops. It is carried by two leather-straps running over the shoulders, as
shown in Fig. 29, and should contain about eight to ten pails, or a little over
two bushels of grapes. The carrier can pass easily through the rows with it
to any part of the vineyard, and lean it against a post until full. If the
vineyard is close to the cellar or press-house, the grapes can be carried to it
directly; if too far, we must provide a long tub or vat, to place on the wagon,
into which the grapes are emptied. I will here again repeat that the utmost
cleanliness should be observed in all the apparatus; and no tub or vat should
be used that is in the least degree mouldy. Everything should be perfectly
sweet and clean, and a strict supervision kept up, that the laborers do not
drop any crumbs of bread, &c., among the grapes, as this will immediately

cause acetous fermentation. The weather should be dry and fair, and the
grapes dry when gathered.

THE WINE-CELLAR.

As the wine-cellar and press-house are generally built together, I will also
describe them together. A good cellar should keep about an even
temperature in cold and warm weather, and should, therefore, be built
sufficiently deep, arched over with stone, well ventilated, and kept dry.
Where the ground is hilly, a northern or northwestern slope should be
chosen, as it is a great convenience, if the entrance can be made even with
the ground. Its size depends, of course, upon the quantity of wine to be
stored. I will here give the dimensions of one I am constructing at present,
and which is calculated to store from 15,000 to 20,000 gallons of wine. The
principal cellar will be 100 feet long, by 18½ feet wide inside, and 12 feet
high under the middle of the arch. This will be divided into two
compartments; the back one, at the farthest end of the cellar, to be 40 feet,
which is destined to keep old wine of former vintages; as it is the deepest
below the ground, it will keep the coolest temperature. It is divided from the
front compartment by a wall and doors, so that it can be shut off should it
become necessary to heat the other, while the must is fermenting. The other
compartment will be 60 feet long, and is intended for the new wine, as the
temperature will be somewhat higher, and, therefore, better adapted to the
fermentation of the must. This will be provided with a stove, so that the air
can be warmed, if necessary, during fermentation. This will also be closed
by folding doors, 5½ feet wide. There will be about six ventilators, or air-
flues, on each side of these two cellars, built in the wall, constructed
somewhat like chimneys, commencing at the bottom, whose upper terminus
is about two feet above the arch, and closed with a grate and trap-doors, so
that they can be closed and opened at will, to admit air and light. Before this
principal cellar is an arched entrance, twenty feet long inside, also closed by
folding doors, and as wide as the principal cellar. This will be very
convenient to store empty casks, and can also be used as a fermenting room
in Fall, should it be needed. The arch of the principal cellar will be covered
with about six feet of earth; the walls of the cellar to be two feet thick. The

press-house will be built above the cellar, over its entire length, and will
also be divided into two rooms. The part farthest from the entrance of the
cellar, to be 60 feet by 18, will be the press-house proper, with folding
doors on both sides, about the middle of the building, and even with the
surface ground, so that a wagon can pass in on one side and out on the
other. This will contain the grape-mill, wine-presses, apparatus for
stemming, and fermenting vats for white or light-colored wine. The other
part, 40 feet long, will contain an apparatus for distilling, the casks and vats
to store the husks for distilling, and the vats to ferment very dark colored
wines on the husks, should it be necessary. It will also be used as a shop,
contain a stove, and be floored, so that it will be convenient, in wet and cold
weather, to cut cuttings, &c. A large cistern, to be built on one side of the
building, so that the necessary water for cleaning casks, &c., will be handy;
with a force-pump, will complete the arrangement. I need hardly add here,
that the whole cellar should be paved with flags or brick, and well drained,
so that it will be perfectly dry.

This cellar is destined to hold two rows of casks, five feet long, on each
side. For this purpose layers of strong beams are provided, upon which the
casks are laid in such a manner that they are about two feet from the
ground, fronting to the middle, and at least a foot or eighteen inches of
space allowed between them and the wall, so that a man can conveniently
pass and examine them. This will leave five and a-half to six feet of space
between the two rows, to draw off the wine, move casks, &c.

This cellar will, at the present rates of work, cost about $6,000. Of
course, the cellar, as before remarked, can be built according to the wants of
the grape-grower. For merely keeping wine during the first winter, a
common house cellar will do; but during the hot days of summer wine will
not keep well in it.

APPARATUS FOR WINE-MAKING.—THE GRAPE MILL AND
PRESS.

This mill can be made very simple, of two wooden rollers, fastened in a
square frame, running against each other, and turned with a crank and cog-
wheel. The rollers should be about nine inches in diameter, and set far
enough apart to mash the berries, but not the seeds and stems. A very
convenient apparatus, mill and press, is manufactured by Geiss & Brosius,
Belleville, Ill., and where the quantity to be made does not exceed 2,000
gallons, it will answer every purpose. The mill has stone rollers, which can
be set by screws to the proper distance, with a cutting apparatus on top, for
apples in making cider, which can be taken off at will. The press is by itself,
and consists of an iron screw, coming up through the platform, with a zinc
tube around it to prevent the must from coming in contact with it. The
platform has a double bottom, the lower one with grooves; the upper
consists simply of boards, with grooves through it to allow the must to run
through. These boards are held in their places by wooden pegs, and can be
taken off at will. A circular hopper, about a foot in diameter, and made of
laths screwed to iron rings, with about a quarter of an inch space between
them, encloses the zinc tube. The outer frame is constructed in the same
way, is about 2½ feet in diameter, and bound with strong wooden and iron
hoops. The mashed grapes are poured into the frame, a close-fitting cover is
put on, which is held down by a strong block, and the power is applied by
an iron nut just on the top of the screw, with holes in each end to apply
strong wooden levers. The apparatus is strong, simple, and convenient, and
presses remarkably fast and clean, as the must can run off below, on the
outside and also on the inside. The cost of mill and press is about $90, but
each can be had separately for $45.

If a large amount of grapes are to be pressed, the press should be of much
larger dimensions, but may be constructed on the same principle—a strong,
large platform, with a strong screw coming through the middle, and a frame
made of laths, screwed to a strong wooden frame, through which the must
can run off freely, with another frame around the outside of the platform.
The must runs off through grooves to the lower side, where it is let off by a
spout. It may be large enough to contain a hundred bushels of grapes at a
single pressing, for a great deal depends upon the ability of the vintner to
press a large amount just at the proper time, when the must has fermented
on the husks just as long as he desires it to do.

FERMENTING VATS.

These should correspond somewhat with the size of the casks we intend
to fill; but they are somewhat unhandy if they hold more than, say four
hundred gallons. They are made of oak or white pine boards, 1½ inch thick,
bound securely by iron hoops, about three feet high, and, say, five feet
wide. The bottom and inside must be worked clean and smooth, to facilitate
washing. When the must is to ferment a longer time on the husks, as is often
the case in red wines, a false bottom should be provided, for the purpose of
holding the husks down below the surface of the must. It is made to fit the
size of the vat, and perforated with holes, and held in its place by sticks of
two inches square, let into the bottom of the vat, and which go through the
false bottom. A hole is bored through them, and the bottom held down by
means of a peg passed through this hole. The vat is closed by a tight-fitting
cover, through which a hole is bored, large enough to admit a tin tube of
about an inch in diameter, to let off the gas. The vats are set high enough
above the ground to admit drawing off the must through a faucet near the
bottom of the vat. For those grapes which are to be pressed immediately we
need no false bottoms or covers for the vats. As fermentation generally
progresses very rapidly here, and it is not desirable with most of our wines
to ferment them on the husks very long, as they generally have astringency
enough, operations here are much more simple than in Europe.

The must is generally allowed to run into a large funnel, filled with oat
straw, and passes through a hose into the casks in the cellar. A hole can be
left through the arch for that purpose, as it is much more convenient than to
carry the must in buckets from the press into the casks.

It is sometimes desirable to stem the grapes, although it is seldom
practiced in this country. This can be easily done by passing the bunches
rapidly over a grooved board, made somewhat in the form of a common
washboard, only the grooves should be round at the bottom and the edges
on top. It is seldom desirable here.

THE WINE CASKS.

These should be made of well-seasoned white oak staves, and can, of
course, be of various sizes to meet the wants of the vintner. The best and
most convenient size for cellar use I have found to be about 500 gallons.
These are sufficiently large to develop the wine fully, and yet can be filled
quick enough to not interrupt fermentation. Of course, the vintner must
have some of all sizes, even down to the five-gallon keg; but for keeping
wine, a cask of 500 gallons takes less room comparatively, and the wine
will attain a higher degree of perfection than in smaller casks. The staves to
make such a cask should be about 5 feet long, and 1½ to 2 inches thick, and
be the very best wood to be had. The cask will, when ready, be about as
high as it is long, should be carefully worked and planed inside, to facilitate
washing and have a so-called door on one end, 12 inches wide and 18
inches high, which is fastened by means of an iron bolt and screw, and a
strong bar of wood. This is to facilitate cleaning; when a cask is empty, the
door is taken out, and a man slips into the cask with a broom and brush, and
carefully washes off all remnants of lees, etc., which, as the lees of the wine
are very slimy and tenacious, cannot be removed by merely pouring in
water and shaking it about. It is also much more convenient to let these
large casks remain in their places, than to move them about. The casks are
bound with strong iron hoops.

To prepare the new casks, and also the vats, etc., for the reception of the
must, they should be either filled with pure water, and allowed to soak for
several days, to draw out the tannin; then emptied, scalded with hot water,
and afterwards steamed with, say two or three gallons of boiling wine; or
they can be made "wine-green," by putting in about half a bushel of
unslaked lime, and pouring in about the same quantity of hot water. After
the lime has fallen apart, add about two quarts of water to each pound of
lime, put in the bung, and turn the cask about; leaving it lie sometimes on
one side, sometimes on the other, so that the lime will come in contact with
every part of the cask. Then pour out the lime-water; wash once or twice
with warm water, and rinse with a decoction of vine leaves, or with warm
wine. Then rinse once more with cold water, and it will be fully prepared to

receive the must. This is also to be observed with old casks, which have
become, by neglect or otherwise, mouldy, or have a peculiar tang.

MAKING THE WINE.

As we have our apparatus all prepared now, we can commence the
operation itself. This can be done in different ways, according to the class
of wine we are about to make.

To make white, or light-colored wine, the grapes which were gathered
and mashed during the day, can be pressed and put into the cask the
following night. To mash them, we place the mill above one of the
fermenting vats, mashing them as quick as they are carried or hauled to the
press-house. The vat is simply covered with a cloth during the day. If the
season has been good, the must will make good wine without the addition
of anything else. In poor seasons it will be necessary to add water and
sugar, to improve its quality, but I will speak of this method in a separate
chapter. In the evening, the must which will run off, is first drawn from the
vat, and by some kept separate; but I think, it makes, upon the whole, a
better wine, if the pressing is added to it. The husks, or mashed grapes, are
then poured upon the press, and pressed until fully dry. To accomplish this
the press is opened several times, and the edges of the cake, or "cheese," as
some call it, are cut off with an axe or cleaver and put on top, after which
they are pressed down again. The casks are then filled with the must; either
completely, if it is intended that the must should ferment above, as it is
called, or under, when the cask is not completely filled, so that the husks,
which the must will throw up, will remain in the cask. Both methods have
their advantages, but I prefer the former, with a very simple contrivance, to
exclude the air, and also prevent waste. This is a siphon or tin tube, bent in
the form of a double elbow, of which one end fits tightly in the bung hole,
and the other empties into a dish of water, to be set on one end of the cask,
through which the gas escapes, as shown in Fig. 30.

We should, however in pressing, be guided somewhat by the weather. In
warm weather fermentation will commence much sooner, and be more

violent, than when the weather is cold. Consequently we should press much
sooner in warm weather, than when the air is cool. Late in the fall, it is
sometimes advisable to leave the must a day longer on the husks, than
indicated below. The cellar should be kept at an even temperature of about
60° during the first few weeks, and if it does not naturally attain this
temperature, then it should be warmed by a stove, as much of the quality of
the wine depends upon a thorough fermentation during the first ten days.

Fig. 30.

When violent fermentation has ceased, say after about ten or twelve days,
and the must has become quiet, the cask should be closed with a tight bung,
and the wine is left until it is clear. In about two to three months it ought to
be perfectly clear and fine—is then racked, i.e., drawn from the lees, by
means of a faucet, and put into clean, sweet casks. It is very important that
the casks are "wine-seasoned," that is, have no other tang than of wine. For
must, fresh brandy or whiskey casks may be used, but after the wine has
fermented, it will not do to use such, as the wine will acquire the smell and
taste of the liquor. When a cask has been emptied, it should be carefully
cleaned, as before described, by entering at the door, or with smaller casks,
by taking out the head. After it is thoroughly cleansed, it may be fumigated
slightly, by burning a small piece of sulphured paper, or a nutmeg in it, and
then filled. To keep empty casks in good condition they should, after

cleaning, be allowed to become thoroughly dry, when they are sulphured,
closed tightly, and laid away in the cellar. The operation of sulphuring
should be repeated every six weeks. If wanted for use, they are simply
rinsed with cold water.

Fig. 31.

For racking the wine, we should have: 1st a large brass faucet. 2d. Pails
of a peculiar shape, wider at the top, to prevent wastage. 3d. A wooden
funnel, as shown in Fig. 31, to hold about six gallons. In racking—first
carefully lift the bung of the cask, as the exclusion of air from above would
cause a gurgling motion in the cask, if tapped below, which would stir up
the lees in the bottom. Then, after having loosened with a hammer the
wooden peg, closing the tap hole, let your assistant hold the pail opposite
the hole, hold the faucet in your right hand, and with the left, withdraw the
plug, inserting the faucet quickly. Drive it in firmly with a hammer, and you
are ready for the work.

Do not fully open the faucet at first, because the first pailful is generally
not quite clear, and should run slowly. You can keep this by itself; and this,
and the last from the lees, is generally put into a cask together and allowed
to settle again. It will make a good, clear wine after a few weeks. As soon as
the wine runs quite clear and limpid, it can be put into the cask destined to
receive it, and you can let it run as fast as it can be emptied. When the wine
has run off down to the tap hole, the cask may be carefully raised on the
other end, one inserting a brick or piece of board under it, while the other
lifts gently and slowly. This may be repeated several times, as long as the

wine runs clear; and even the somewhat cloudy wine may be put with the
first pailful into a separate cask. As soon as it comes thick or muddy, it is
time to stop. The lees are emptied out, and will, if distilled, make a fine
flavored and very strong brandy.

This treatment can be applied to all white and light-colored wines, when
it is not desirable to have a certain astringency in the wine. The Catawba,
Concord, Herbemont, Delaware, Rulander, Cassady, Taylor, Louisiana,
Hartford Prolific, and Cunningham should all be treated in a similar
manner. The Concord, although it will, under this treatment, make only a
light red wine, of which the color can be changed to dark red by fermenting
on the husks, is not desirable if treated in the latter manner; as the peculiar
foxy aroma of the grape will be imparted to the must to such a degree, as to
make the flavor disagreeable, I shall recur to the subject of flavor in wines
in another chapter.

To make red wine, the must should be fermented on the husks, as
generally the darkest color is desired, and also, a certain astringency, which
the wine will acquire principally from the seeds, skins, and stems of the
grapes, which contain the tannin. The grapes are mashed, and put into the
fermenting vat, of the kind described before, with false bottoms. After the
vat is filled about three-fourths the false bottom is put on, the husks are
pressed down by it, until they are covered about six inches by the must, and
the cover put on. It is seldom desirable here to ferment longer than three
days on the husks, if the weather is warm—in a temperature of 60°—two
days will often be enough, as the wine will become too rough and astringent
by an excessively long fermentation. Only experience will be the proper
guide here, and also the individual taste. It will be generally time to press,
when the must has changed its sweet taste, and acquired a somewhat rough
and bitter one. Where it is desired to make a very dark colored wine,
without too much astringency, the grapes should be stemmed, as most of the
rough and bitter taste is in the stems; and it can then be fermented on the
husks for six or eight days. In this manner the celebrated Burgundy wines
are made; also most of the red wines of France and Germany. Many of them
are even allowed to go through the whole process of fermentation, and the
husks are filled into the cask with the must, through a door, made in the
upper side of the cask; and it there remains, until the clear wine is drawn

off. This is seldom desirable here, however, as our red wine grapes have
sufficient astringency and color without this process. The treatment during
fermentation, racking, etc., is precisely the same as with white wine, with
only this difference, that the red wine is generally allowed to stay longer on
the lees; for our object in making this class of wine is different than in
making white, or so-called Schiller or light red wine. In white and light
colored wines we desire smoothness and delicacy of bouquet and taste; in
dark red wines, we desire astringency and body, as they are to be the so-
called stomach or medical wines. It is therefore generally racked but once,
in the latter part of February or March, and the white and light colored
wines are racked in December or January, as soon as they have become
clear—and again in March. We also use no sulphur in fumigating the casks,
as it takes away the color to a certain extent. We generally do not use
anything, but simply clean the casks well, in racking red wine.

I will say a few words in regard to under fermentation. If this method is
to be followed, the casks are not filled, but enough space left to allow the
wine to ferment, without throwing out lees and husks at the bung. The bung
is then covered, by laying a sack filled with sand over it, and when
fermentation is over—as well by this as by the other method—the casks are
filled with must or wine, kept in a separate cask for the purpose. The casks
should always be kept well filled, and must be looked over and filled every
two or three weeks, as the wine will continually lose in quantity, by
evaporation through the wood of the casks. The casks should be varnished
or brushed over with linseed oil, as this will prevent evaporation to some
extent.

In wine making, and giving the wine its character, we can only be guided
by practice and individual taste, as well as the prevailing taste of the
consuming public. If the prevailing taste is for light colored, smooth and
delicate wines, we can make them so, by pressing immediately, and racking
soon, and frequently. If a dark colored, astringent wine is desired, we can
ferment on the husks, and leave it on the lees a longer period. There is a
medium course, in this as in everything else; and the intelligent vintner will
soon find the rules which should guide him, by practice with different
varieties.

Among the wines to be treated as dark red, I will name Norton's Virginia,
Cynthiana, Arkansas, and Clinton, and, I suppose, Ives' Seedling. It would
be insulting to these noble wines to class with them the Oporto, which may
make a very dark colored liquid, but no wine worth the name, unless an
immense quantity of sugar is added, and enough of water to dilute the
peculiar vile aroma of that grape.

AFTER TREATMENT OF THE WINE.

Even if the wine was perfectly fine and clear, when drawn off, it will go
through a second fermentation as soon as warm weather sets it—say in May
or June. If the wine is clear and fine, however, the fermentation will be less
violent, than if it is not so clear, as the lees, which the wine has never
entirely deposited; act as they ferment. It is not safe or judicious, therefore,
to bottle the wine before this second fermentation is over. As soon as the
wine has become perfectly clear and fine again—generally in August or
September—it can be bottled. For bottling wine we need: 1st. clean bottles.
2d. good corks, which must first be scalded with hot water, to soften them,
and draw out all impurities, and then soaked in cold water. 3d. a small
funnel. 4th. a small faucet. 5th. a cork-press, of iron or wood. 6th. a light
wooden mallet to drive in the corks.

After the faucet has been inserted in the cask, fill your bottles so that
there will be about an inch of room between the cork and the wine. Let
them stand about five minutes before you drive in the cork, which should
always be of rather full size, and made to fit by compressing it with the
press at one end. Then drive in the cork with the mallet, and lay the bottles,
either in sand on the cellar floor, or on a rack made for that purpose. They
should be laid so that the wine covers the cork, to exclude all air.

The greater bulk of the wine, however, if yet on hand; can be kept in
casks. All the wine to be kept thus, should be racked once in about six
months, and the casks kept well filled. Most of our native wines, however,
are generally sold after the second racking in March, and a great many even
as soon as clear—in January.

DISEASES OF THE WINE AND THEIR REMEDIES.

These will seldom occur, if the wine has been properly treated. Cases
may arise, however, when it will become necessary to rack the wine, or fine
it by artificial means.

TREATMENT OF FLAT AND TURBID WINE.

The cause of this is generally a want of Tannin. If the wine has a peculiar,
flat, soft taste, and looks cloudy, this is generally the case. Draw the wine
into another cask, which has been well sulphured, and add some pulverized
tannin, which can be had in every drug store. The tannin may be dissolved
in water—about an ounce to every two hundred gallons of wine—and the
wine well stirred, by inserting a stick at the bung. Should it not have
become clear after about three weeks, it should be fined. This can be done,
by adding about an ounce of powdered gum-arabic to each forty gallons,
and stirring the wine well when it has been poured in. Or, take some wine
out of the casks—add to each forty gallons which it contains the whites of
ten eggs, whipped to foam with the wine taken out—pour in the mixture
again—stir up well, and bung up tight. After a week the wine will generally
be clear, and should then be drawn off.

USE OF THE HUSKS AND LEES.

These should be distilled, and will make a very strong, fine flavored
brandy. The husks are put into empty barrels or vats—stamped down close,
and a cover of clay made over them, to exclude the air. They will thus
undergo a fermentation, and be ready for distillation in about a month. They
should be taken fresh from the press, however; for if they come into contact
with the air, they will soon become sour and mouldy. The lees can be

distilled immediately. Good fresh lees, from rather astringent wines are also
an excellent remedy when the wine becomes flat, as before described.

DR. GALL'S AND PETIOL'S METHOD OF WINE MAKING.

The process of wine making before described, however, can only be
applied in such seasons, and with such varieties of grapes, that contain all
the necessary elements for a good wine in due proportion. For unfavorable
seasons, with such varieties of grapes as are deficient in some of the
principal ingredients, we must take a different course—follow a different
method. To see our way clearly before us in this, let us first examine which
are the constituent parts of must or grape juice. A chemical analysis of must,
shows the following result:

Grape juice contains sugar, water, free acids, tannin, gummy and mucous
substances, coloring matter, fragrant or flavoring substances, (aroma
bouquet). A good wine should contain all these ingredients in due
proportion. If there is an excess of one, and a want of the other, the wine
will lose in quality. Must, which contains all of these, in due proportion, we
call normal must, and only by determining the amount of sugar and acids in
this so-called normal must, can we gain the knowledge how to improve
such must, which does not contain the necessary proportion of each. The
frequent occurrence of unfavorable seasons in Europe, when the grapes did
not ripen fully, and were sadly deficient in sugar, set intelligent men to
thinking how this defect could be remedied; and a grape crop, which was
almost worthless, from its want of sugar, and its excess of acids, could be
made to yield at least a fair article, instead of the sour and unsaleable article
generally produced in such seasons. Among the foremost who experimented
with this object in view I will here name Chaptal, Petiol; but especially
Dr. Ludwig Gall, who has at last reduced the whole science of wine-
making to such a mathematical certainty, that we stand amazed only, that so
simple a process should not have been discovered long ago. It is the old
story of the egg of Columbus; but the poor vintners of Germany, and
France, and we here, are none the less deeply indebted to those intelligent
and persevering men for the incalculable benefits they have conferred upon

us. The production of good wine is thus reduced to a mathematical
certainty; although we cannot in a bad season, produce as high flavored and
delicate wines, as in the best years, we can now always make a fair article,
by following the simple rules laid down by Dr. Gall. When this method
was first introduced, it was calumniated and despised—called adulteration
of wine, and even prohibited by the governments of Europe; but, Dr. Gall
fearlessly challenged his opponents to have his wines analyzed by the most
eminent chemists; which was repeatedly done, and the results showed that
they contained nothing but such ingredients which pure wine should
contain; and since men like Von Babo, Dobereiner and others have openly
endorsed and recommended gallizing, prejudice is giving way before the
light of scientific knowledge.

But to determine the amount of sugar and acids contained in the must we
need a few necessary implements. These are:

THE MUST SCALE OR SACCHAROMETER.

The most suitable one now in use is the Oechsle's
must scale, constructed on the principle that the
instrument sinks the deeper into any fluid, the
thinner it is, or the less sugar it contains. Fig. 32
shows this instrument, "which is generally made of
silver, or German silver, although they are also
made of glass. A, represents a hollow cylinder—best
made of glass, filled with must to the brim, into
which place the must scale B. It is composed of the
hollow float a, which keeps it suspended in the
fluid; of the weight c, for holding in a perpendicular
position; and of the scale e divided by small lines
into from fifty to one hundred degrees. Before the
gauge is placed in the must, draw it several times
through the mouth, to moisten it—but allow no
saliva to adhere to it. When the guage ceases to
descend, note the degree to which it has sunk; after

Fig. 32. which press it down with the finger a few degrees
further, and on its standing still again, the line to
which the must reaches, indicates its so-called
weight, expressed by degrees." The must should be weighed in an entirely
fresh state, before it shows any sign of fermentation, and should be free
from husks, and pure.

This instrument, which is indispensable to every one who intends to
make wine, can be obtained in nearly every large town, from the prominent
opticians. Jacob Blattner, at St. Louis keeps them for sale.

The saccharometer will indicate the amount of sugar in the must, and its
use is so simple, that every one can soon become familiar with it. The next
step in the improvement of wines was to determine the amount of acids the
must contained, and this problem has also been successfully solved by the
invention of the acidimeter:

THE ACIDIMETER AND ITS USE.

"The first instrument of this kind which came into general use, was one
invented by Dr. Otto, and consists of a glass tube, from ten to twelve
inches in length, half an inch in width, and closed at the lower end. Fig. 33
shows Otto's Acidimeter.

"The tube is filled to the partition line a, with tincture of litmus. The must
to be examined, before it has begun to ferment is then poured into the tube,
until it reaches the line 0. The blue tincture of litmus, which would still be
blue, if water had been added, is turned into rose-color by the action of the
acids contained in the must.

"If a solution of 1,369 per cent, of caustic ammonia is added to this red
fluid, and the tube is turned around to effect the necessary mixture, keeping
its mouth closed with the thumb, after the addition of more or less of the
ammonical fluid, it will change into violet. This tinge indicates the
saturation of the acids, and the height of the fluid in the tube now shows the
quantity of acid in the must, by whole, half and fourth parts per cent. The

lines marked 1, 2, 3, 4, indicate whole per cents.; the short
intermediate lines, one-fourth per cents."

When Dr. Gall, shortly before the vintage of 1850, first
publicly recommended the dilution of the acids, he was
obliged to refer to this instrument, as already known, and
everywhere at hand, which was at the same time cheap, and
simple in its use. "It is true, however, that if must is
examined by this instrument, the quantity of acids contained
in it, is really somewhat larger than indicated by the
instrument; because the acids contained in the must require
for their saturation a weaker solution of ammonia than
acetic acid." As however, Otto's acidimeter shows about
one eighth of the acids less than the must actually contains,
and about as much acids combined with earths is removed
during fermentation, Dr. Gall recommends that the
quantity of acids be reduced to 6½, or at most 7 thousandths
of Otto's acidimeter, and the results have shown that this
was about the right proportion; as the wines in which the
Fig. 33. acids were thus diluted were in favor with all consumers.

"The acidimeter referred to was afterwards improved, by
making the tube longer and more narrow, and dividing it
into tenths of per cents, instead of fourths; thus dividing the whole above 0
into thousandths. But although by this improved acidimeter the quantity of
acids could be ascertained with more nicety, there remained one defect, that
in often turning the glass tube for mixing the fluids, some of the contents
adhered to the thumb in closing its mouth. This defect was remedied in a
new acidimeter, invented by Mr. Geisler, who also invented the new
vaporimeter for the determination of the quantity of alcohol contained in
wine. It is based on the same principle as Otto's, but differs altogether in its
construction. It is composed of three parts, all made of glass; the mixing
bottle, Fig. 34; the Pipette, Fig. 35; and the burette, Fig 36. Besides, there
should be ready three small glasses—one filled with tincture of litmus, the
second with a solution of 1,369 per ammonia, and the third with the must or
wine to be tested; also, a taller glass, or vessel, having its bottom covered

with cotton, in which glass the burette, after it has been filled with the
solution of ammonia, is to be placed in an upright position until wanted.

Fig. 34. Fig. 35. Fig. 36.

"To use this instrument the must and the tincture of litmus, having first
received the normal temperature of 14° Reaumer, are brought into the
mixing bottle by means of the pipette, which is a hollow tube of glass, open
on both ends. To fill it, place its lower end into the tincture or must, apply
the mouth to the upper end, and by means of suction fill it with the tincture
of litmus to above the line indicated at A. The opening of the top is then
quickly closed with the thumb; by alternately raising the thumb, and
pressing it down again, so much of the tincture is then allowed to flow back
into the glass so as to lower the fluid to the line indicated at A. The
remainder is then brought into the bottle, and the last drops forced out by
blowing into the pipette.

"In filling it with must, raise the fluid in the same way, until it comes up
to the line indicated at B, and then empty into the mixing bottle.

"The burette consists of two hollow tubes of glass. In filling it, hold the
smaller tube with the right hand into the glass containing the solution of
ammonia, apply the mouth to the larger one, and by drawing in the fluid the
tube is filled exactly to the line indicated at 0 of the tube.

"Holding the mixing bottle by the neck between the thumb and forefinger
of the left hand, place the smaller tube of the burette into the mouth of the
mixing bottle, which must be constantly shaken; let enough of the solution
of ammonia be brought drop by drop, into the mixture in the bottle, till the
red has been changed into the deep reddish blue of the purple onion. This is
the sign of the proper saturation of the acids. To distinguish still better, turn
the mixing bottle upside down, by closing its mouth with the thumb, and
examine the color of the fluid in the tube-shaped neck of the bottle, and
afterwards, should it be required, add another drop of the ammonia. Repeat
this until the proper tone of color has been reached, neither red nor blue.
After thus fixing the precise point of the saturation of the acids, the burette
is held upright, and the quantity of the solution of ammonia consumed is
accurately determined,—that is, to what line on the scale the burette has
been emptied. The quantity of the solution so used corresponds with the
quantity of acids contained in the must—the larger division lines opposite
the numbers indicating the thousandths part, and the smaller lines or dots
the ten thousandths part.

"Until the eye has learned by practice to recognize the points of
saturation by the tone of color, it can be proven by means of litmus paper.
When the mixture in the bottle begins to turn blue, put in the end of a slip of
litmus paper about half an inch deep, and then draw this end through your
fingers, moistened with water. So long as the ends of the blue litmus paper
become more or less reddened, the acids have not been completely
saturated. Only when it remains blue, has the point of saturation been
reached.

"In examining red must, the method should be modified as follows:—
Instead of first filling the pipette with tincture of litmus, fill it with water to
the line A, and transfer it into the bottle. After the quantity of must has been

added, drop six-thousandths of the solution of ammonia into the mixture,
constantly shaking it while dropping, then test it, and so on, until, after
every further addition required with litmus paper, it is no longer reddened
after having been wiped off."

Dr. Gall further gives the following directions, as a guide, to distinguish
and determine the proportion of acids which a must should contain, to be
still agreeable to the palate, and good:

"Chemists distinguish the acid contained in the grape as the vinous,
malic, grape, citric, tannic, gelatinous and para-citric acids. Whether all
these are contained in the must, or which of them, is of small moment for us
to know. For the practical wine-maker, it is sufficient to know, with full
certainty, that, as the grape ripens, while the proportion of sugar increases,
the quantity of acids continually diminishes; and hence, by leaving the
grapes on the vines as long as possible, we have a double means of
improving their products—the must or wine.

"All wines, without exception, to be of good and of agreeable taste, must
contain from 4½ to 7 thousandths parts of free acids, and each must
containing more than seven thousandths parts of free acids may be
considered as having too little water and sugar in proportion to its quantity
of acids.

"In all wine-growing countries of Germany, for a number of years past,
experience has proved that a corresponding addition of sugar and water is
the means of converting the sourest must, not only into a good drinkable
wine, but also into as good a wine as can be produced in favorable years,
except in that peculiar and delicate aroma found only in the must of well-
ripened grapes, and which must and will always distinguish the wines made
in the best seasons from those made in poor seasons.

"The saccharometer and acidimeter, properly used, will give us the exact
knowledge of what the must contains, and what it lacks; and we have the
means at hand, by adding water, to reduce the acids to their proper
proportion; and by adding sugar, to increase the amount of sugar the must
should contain; in other words, we can change the poor must of indifferent
seasons into the normal must of the best seasons in everything, except its

bouquet or aroma, thereby converting an unwholesome and disagreeable
drink into an agreeable and healthy one."

THE CHANGE OF THE MUST, BY FERMENTATION, INTO WINE.

Let us glance for a few moments at this wonderful, simple, and yet so
complicated process, to give a clearer insight into the functions which man
has to perform to assist Nature, and have her work for him, to attain the
desired end. I cannot put the matter in a better light for my readers than to
quote again from Dr. Gall. He says:—"To form a correct opinion of what
may and can be done in the manufacture of wine, we must be thoroughly
convinced that Nature, in her operations, has other objects in view than
merely to serve man as his careful cook and butler. Had the highest object
of the Creator, in the creation of the grape, been simply to combine in the
juice of the fruit nothing but what is indispensable to the formation of that
delicious beverage for the accommodation of man, it might have been still
easier done for him by at once filling the berries with wine already made.
But in the production of fruits, the first object of all is to provide for the
propagation and preservation of the species. Each fruit contains the germ of
a new plant, and a quantity of nutritious matter surrounding and developing
that germ. The general belief is, that this nutritious matter, and even the
peculiar combination in which it is found in the fruit, has been made
directly for the immediate use of man. This, however, is a mistake. The
nutritious matter of the grape, as in the apple, pear, or any similar product,
is designed by Nature only to serve as the first nourishment of the future
plant, the germ of which lies in it. There are thousands of fruits of no use
whatever, and are even noxious to man, and there are thousands more
which, before they can be used, must be divested of certain parts, necessary,
indeed, to the nutrition of the future plant, but unfit, in its present state, for
the use or nourishment of man. For instance, barley contains starch,
mucilaginous sugar, gum, adhesive matter, vegetable albumen, phosphate of
lime, oil, fibre and water. All these are necessary to the formation of roots,
stalks, leaves, flowers and the new grain; but for the manufacture of beer,
the brewer needs only the first three substances. The same rule applies to
the grape.

"In this use of the grape, all depends upon the judgment of man to select
such of its parts as he wishes, and by his skill he adapts and applies them in
the best manner for his purposes. In eating the grapes, he throws away the
skins and seeds; for raisins, he evaporates the water, retaining only the solid
parts, from which, when he uses them, he rejects their seeds. If he
manufactures must, he lets the skins remain. In making wine, he sets free
the carbonic acid contained in the must, and removes the lees, gum, tartar,
and, in short, everything deposited during, and immediately after
fermentation, as well as when it is put into casks and bottles. He not only
removes from the wine its sediments, but watches the fermentation, and
checks it as soon as its vinous fermentation is over, and the formation of
vinegar about to begin. He refines his wine by an addition of foreign
substances if necessary; he sulphurizes it; and, by one means or another,
remedies its distempers.

"The manufacture of wine is thus a many-sided art; and he who does not
understand it, or knows not how to guide and direct the powers of Nature to
his own purposes, may as well give up all hopes of success in it."

So far Dr. Gall; and to the intelligent and unbiased mind, the truth and
force of these remarks will be apparent, without further extending or
explaining them. How absurd, then, the blind ravings of those who talk
about "natural" wines, and would condemn every addition of sugar and
water to the must by man, when Nature has not fully done her part, as
adulteration and fraud. Why, there is no such thing as a "natural wine;" for
wine—good wine—is the product of art, and a manufacture from beginning
to end. Would we not think that parent extremely cruel, as well as foolish,
who would have her child without clothing, simply because Nature had
allowed it to be born without it? Would not the child suffer and die, because
its mother failed to aid Nature in her work, by clothing and feeding it when
it is yet unable to feed and clothe itself? And yet, would not that wine-
maker act equally foolish who has it within his power to remedy the
deficiencies of Nature with such means as she herself supplies in good
season, and which ought and would be in the must but for unfavorable
circumstances, over which we have no control? Wine thus improved is just
as pure as if the sugar and water had naturally been in the grapes in right
proportions; just as beneficial to health; and only the fanatical "know-

nothing" can call it adulterated. But the prejudices will disappear before the
light of science and truth, however much ignorance may clamor against it.
Galileo, when forced to abjure publicly his great discovery of the motion
of the earth around the sun as a heresy and lie, murmured between his teeth
the celebrated words, "And yet it moves." It did move; and the theory is
now an acknowledged truth, with which every schoolboy is familiar. Thus
will it be with improved wine-making. It will yet be followed, generally and
universally, as sure as the public will learn to distinguish between good and
poor wine.

Let us now observe for a moment the change which fermentation makes
in converting the must into wine. The nitrogeneous compounds—vegetable
albumen, gluten—which are contained in the grape, and which are
dissolved in the must as completely as the sugar, under certain
circumstances turn into the fermenting principle, and so change the must
into wine. This change is brought about by the fermenting substance
coming into contact with the air, and receiving oxygen from it, in
consequence of which it coagulates, and shows itself in the turbid state of
must, or young wine. The coagulation of the lees takes place but gradually,
and just in the degree the exhausted lees settle. The sugar gradually turns
into alcohol. The acids partly remain as tartaric acid, are partly turned into
ether, or settle with the lees, chrystallize, and adhere to the bottom of the
casks. The etheric oil, or aroma, remains, and develops into bouquet; also
the tannin, to a certain degree. The albumen and gluten principally settle,
although a small portion of them remains in the wine. The coloring matter
and extractive principle remain, but change somewhat by fermentation.

Thus it is the must containing a large amount of sugar needs a longer
time to become clear than that containing but a small portion of it;
therefore, many southern wines retain a certain amount of sugar
undecomposed, and they are called sweet, or liqueur wines; whereas, wines
in which the whole of the sugar has been decomposed are called sour or dry
wines.

I have thought it necessary to be thus explicit to give my readers an
insight into the general principles which should govern us in wine-making.
I have quoted freely from the excellent work of Dr. Gall. We will now see

whether and how we can reduce it to practice. I will try and illustrate this by
an example.

NORMAL MUST.

"Experiments continued for a number of years have proved that, in
favorable seasons, grape juice contains, on the average, in 1,000 lbs.:

Sugar, 240 lbs.
Acids, 6 lbs.
Water, 754 lbs.
1,000 lbs.

This proportion would constitute what I call a normal must. But now we
have an inferior season, and the must contains, instead of the above
proportions, as follows:

Sugar, 150 lbs.
Acids, 9 lbs.
Water, 841 lbs.
1,000 lbs.

What must we do to bring such must to the condition of a normal must?
This is the question thus arising. To solve it, we calculate thus: If, in six
pounds of acids in a normal wine, 240 pounds of sugar appear, how much
sugar is wanted for nine pounds of acids? Answer, 360 pounds. Our next
question is: If, in six pounds of acids in a normal must, 754 pounds of water
appear, how much water is required for nine pounds of acids? Answer,
1,131 pounds. As, therefore, the must which we intend to improve by
neutralizing its acids, should contain 360 pounds of sugar, nine pounds of
acids, and 1,131 pounds of water, but contains already 150 pounds of sugar,
9 pounds of acids, and 841 pounds of water, there remain to be added, 210
pounds of sugar, no acids, and 290 pounds of water.

By ameliorating a quantity of 1,000 pounds must by 210 pounds sugar,
and 290 pounds water, we obtain 1,500 pounds of must, consisting of the
same properties as the normal must, which makes a first-class wine."

This is wine-making, according to Gall's method, in Europe. Now, let us
see what we can do with it on American soil, and with American grapes.

THE MUST OF AMERICAN GRAPES.

If we examine the must of most of our American wine grapes closely, we
find that they not only contain an excess of acids in inferior seasons, but
also a superabundance of flavor or aroma, and of tannin and coloring
matter. Especially of flavor, there is such an abundance that, were the
quantity doubled by addition of sugar and water, there would still be an
abundance; and with some varieties, such as the Concord, if fermented on
the husks, it is so strong as to be disagreeable. We must, therefore, not only
ameliorate the acid, but also the flavor and the astringency, of which the
tannin is the principal cause. Therefore it is, that to us the knowledge of
how to properly gallize our wines is still more important than to the
European vintner, and the results which we can realize are yet more
important. By a proper management, we can change must, which would
otherwise make a disagreeable wine, into one in which everything is in its
proper proportion, and which will delight the consumer, to whose fastidious
taste if would otherwise have been repugnant. True, we have here a more
congenial climate, and the grapes will generally ripen better, so that we can
in most seasons produce a drinkable wine. But if we can increase the
quantity, and at the same time improve the quality, there is certainly an
inducement, which the practical business sense of our people will not fail to
appreciate and make use of.

There is, however, one difficulty in the way. I do not believe that the
acidimeter can yet be obtained in the country, and we must import them
direct from the manufacturers, Dr. L. C. Marquart, of Bonn, on the Rhine;
or J. Diehn, Frankfort-on-the-Main.

However, this difficulty will soon be overcome; and, indeed, although it
is impossible to practice gallizing without a saccharometer, we may get at
the surplus of acids with tolerable certainty by the results shown by the
saccharometer. To illustrate this, I will give an example:

Last year was one of the most unfavorable seasons for the ripening of
grapes we have ever had here, and especially the Catawba lost almost nine-
tenths of its crop by mildew and rot; it also lost its leaves, and the result
was, that the grapes did not ripen well. When gathering my grapes, upon
weighing the must, I found that it ranged from 52° to 70°; whereas, in good
seasons, Catawba must weighs from 80° to 95°. I now calculated thus: if
normal must of Catawba should weigh at least 80°, and the must I have to
deal with this season will weigh on an average only 60°, I must add to this
must about ½ lb. of sugar to bring it up to 80°. But now I had the surplus
acid to neutralize yet. To do this, I calculated thus: If, even in a normal
Catawba must, or a must of the best seasons, there is yet an excess of acid, I
can safely count on there being at least one-third too much acid in a must
that weighs but 60°. I, therefore, added to every 100 gallons of must 40
gallons of soft water, in which I had first dissolved 80 lbs. of crushed sugar,
which brought the water, when weighed after dissolving the sugar in it, up
to 80°. Now, I had yet to add 50 lbs., or half a pound to each gallon of the
original must, to bring this up to 80°. I thus pressed, instead of 100 gallons,
150 gallons, from the same quantity of grapes; and the result was a wine,
which every one who has tasted it has declared to be excellent Catawba. It
has a brilliant pale yellow color, was perfectly clear 1st of January, and sold
by me to the first one to whom I offered it, at a price which I have seldom
realized for Catawba wine made in the best seasons, without addition of
sugar or water. True, it has not as strong an aroma as the Catawba of our
best seasons, nor has it as much astringency; but this latter I consider an
advantage, and it still has abundant aroma to give it character.

Another experiment I made with the Concord satisfied me, without
question, that the must of this grape will always gain by an addition of
water and sugar. I pressed several casks of the pure juice, which, as the
Concord had held its leaves and ripened its fruit very well, contained sugar
enough to make a fair wine, namely, 75°. This I generally pressed the day
after gathering, and put into separate casks. I then took some must of the

same weight, but to which I had added, to every 100 gallons, 50 gallons of
water, in which I had diluted sugar until the water weighed 75°, or not quite
two pounds of sugar to the gallon of water, pressed also after the expiration
of the same time, and otherwise treated in the same manner. Both were
treated exactly alike, racked at the same time; and the result is, that every
one who tries the two wines, without knowing how they have been treated,
prefers the gallized wine to the other—the pure juice of the grape. It is more
delicate in flavor, has less acidity, and a more brilliant color than the first,
the ungallized must. They are both excellent, but there is a difference in
favor of the gallized wine.

Dr. Gall recommends grape sugar as the best to be used for the purpose.
This is made from potato starch; but it is hard to obtain here, and I have
found crushed loaf sugar answer every purpose. I think this sugar has the
advantage over grape sugar, that it dissolves more readily, and can even be
dissolved in cold water, thus simplifying the process very much. It will take
about two pounds to the gallon of water to bring this up to 80°, which will
make a wine of sufficient body. The average price of sugar was about 22
cents per pound, and the cost of thus producing an additional gallon of
wine, counting in labor, interest on capital, etc., will be about 60 cents.
When the wine can be sold at from $2 to $3 per gallon, the reader will
easily perceive of what immense advantage this method is to the grape-
grower, if he can thereby not only improve the quality, but also increase the
quantity of the yield.

The efforts made by the Commissioner of Patents, and the contributors to
the annual reports from the Patent Office, to diffuse a general knowledge of
this process, can therefore not be commended too highly. It will help much
to bring into general use, among all classes, good, pure, native wines; and
as soon as ever the poorer classes can obtain cheap agreeable wines, the use
of bad whiskey and brandy will be abandoned more and more, and this
nation will become a more temperate people.

But this is only the first step. There is a way to still further increase the
quantity. Dr. Gall and others found, by analyzing the husks of the grape
after the juice had been extracted by powerful presses, that they not only
still contained a considerable amount of juice, but also a great amount of

extracts, or wine-making principles, in many instances sufficient for three
times the bulk of the juice already expressed. This fact suggested the
question: As there are so many of these valuable properties left, and only
sugar and water exhausted, why cannot these be substituted until the others
are completely exhausted? It was found that the husks still contained
sufficient of acids, tannin, aroma, coloring matter, and gluten. All that
remained to be added was water and sugar. It was found that this could be
easily done; and the results showed that wine made in this manner was
equal, if not superior, to some of that made from the original juice, and was
often, by the best judges, preferred to that made from the original must.

I have also practiced this method extensively the last season; and the
result is, that I have fully doubled the amount of wine of the Norton's
Virginia and Concord. I have thus made 2,500 gallons of Concord, where I
had but 1,030 gallons of original must; and 2,600 gallons of Norton's
Virginia, where I had but 1,300 gallons of must. The wines thus made were
kept strictly separate from those made from the original juice, and the result
is, that many of them are better, and none inferior, to the original must; and
although I have kept a careful diary of wine-making, in which I have noted
the process how each cask was made, period of fermentation on the husks,
quantity of sugar used, etc., and have not hesitated to show this to every
purchaser after he had tasted of the wine, they generally, and with very few
exceptions, chose those which had either been gallized in part, or entirely.

Fig. 37.
Union Village.—Berries 1/3 diameter.

My method in making such wines was very simple. I generally took the
same quantity of water, the husks had given original must, or in other
words, when I had pressed 100 gallons of juice, I took about 80 gallons of
water. To make Concord wine, I added 1¾ lbs. of sugar to the gallon, as I
calculated upon some sugar remaining in the husks, which were not pressed
entirely dry. This increased the quantity, with the juice yet contained in the
husks to 100 gallons, and brought the water to 70; calculating that from 5°
to 10° still remained in the husks, it would give us a must of about 80°. The
grapes, as before remarked, had been gathered during the foregoing day,
and were generally pressed in the morning. As soon as possible the husks
were turned into the fermenting vat again, all pulled apart and broken, and
the water added to them. As the fermentation had been very strong before, it
immediately commenced again. I generally allowed them to ferment for
twenty-four hours, and then pressed again, but pressed as dry as possible
this time. The whole treatment of this must was precisely similar to that of
the original.

In making Norton's Virginia, I would take, instead of 1¾ lbs., 2 lbs. of
sugar to the gallon—as it is naturally a wine of greater body than the
Concord—and I aimed to come as near to the natural must as possible. I
generally fermented this somewhat longer, as a darker color was desired.
The time of fermentation must vary, of course, with the state of the
atmosphere; in cooler weather, both pressings should remain longer on the
husks. The results, in both varieties were wines of excellent flavor, good
body, a brilliant color, with enough of tannin or astringency, and sufficient
acid—therefore, in every way satisfactory.

The experiments, however, were not confined to these alone, but
extended over a number of varieties, with good results in every case. Of all
varieties tried, however, I found that the Concord would bear the most of
gallizing, without losing its own peculiar flavor; and I satisfied myself, that
the quantity in this grape can safely be increased here, from 100 gallons of
must to 250 gallons of wine, and the quality yet be better, than if the must
had been left in its normal condition.

And it is here again where only experience can teach us how far we can
go with a certain variety. It must be clear and apparent to any one who is
ever so slightly acquainted with wine-making, how widely different the
varieties are in their characteristics and ingredients. We may lay it down as
a general rule, however, that our native grapes, with their strong and
peculiar flavors, and their superabundance of tannin and coloring matter,
will admit of much more gallizing, than the more delicately flavored
European kinds.

I have thus tried only to give an outline of the necessary operations, as
well as the principles lying at the foundation of them. I have also spoken
only of facts as I have found them, as I am well aware that this is a field in
which I have much to learn yet, and where it but poorly becomes me to act
the part of teacher. Those desiring more detailed information, I would refer
to the Patent Office Reports of 1859-60, where they will find valuable
extracts from the works of Dr. Gall; and also to the original works.

If we look at the probable effect these methods of improving wines are
likely to have upon grape-culture, it is but natural that we should ask the
question: Is there anything reprehensible in the practice—any reason why it

should not become general? The answer to this is very simple. They contain
nothing which the fermented grape juice, in its purest and most perfect state
does not also contain. Therefore, they are as pure as any grape juice can be,
with the consideration in their favor, that everything is in the right
proportion. Therefore, if wine made from pure grape juice can be
recommended for general use, surely, the gallized wines can also be
recommended. Dr. Gall has repeatedly offered to pay a fine for the benefit
of the poor, if the most critical chemical analysis could detect anything in
them, which was injurious to health, or which pure wines ought not to
contain, and his opponents have always failed to show anything of the kind.

I know that some of my wine-making friends will blame me for thus
"letting the cat out of the bag." They seem to think that it would be better to
keep the knowledge we have gained, to ourselves, carefully even hiding the
fact that any of our wines have been gallized. But it has always been a
deep-seated conviction with me, that knowledge and truth, like God's sun
should be the common property of all His children—and that it is the duty
of every one not to "hide his light under a bushel," but seek to impart it to
all, who could, perhaps, be benefitted by it. And why, in reality, should we
seek to keep as a secret a practice which is perfectly right and justifiable? If
there is a prejudice against it, (and we know there is), this is not the way to
combat it. Only by meeting it openly, and showing the fallacy of it, can we
hope to convince the public, that there is nothing wrong about it. Truth and
justice need never fear the light—they can only gain additional force from
it. I do not even attempt to sell a cask of gallized wine, before the purchaser
is made fully acquainted with the fact, that it has been gallized.

It is a matter of course, that many, who go to work carelessly and
slovenly, will fail to make good wine, in this or any other way. To make a
good article, the nature of each variety and its peculiarities must be closely
studied—we must have as ripe grapes as we can get, carefully gathered; and
we need not think that water and sugar will accomplish everything. There is
a limit to everything, and to gallizing as well as to anything else. As soon as
we pass beyond that limit, an inferior product will be the result.

But let us glance a moment at the probable influence this discovery will
have on American grape culture. It cannot be otherwise than in the highest

degree beneficial; for when we simply look at grape-culture as it was ten
years ago, with the simple product of the Catawba as its basis; a variety
which would only yield an average of, say 200 gallons to the acre—often
very inferior wine—and look at it to-day, with such varieties as the
Concord, yielding an average of from 1,000 to 1,500 gallons to the acre,
which we can yet easily double by gallizing, thus in reality yielding an
average of 2,500 gallons to the acre of uniformly good wine; can we be
surprised if everybody talks and thinks of raising grapes? Truly, the time is
not far distant—of which we hardly dared to dream ten years ago—and
which we then thought we would never live to see; when every American
citizen can indulge in a daily glass of that glorious gift of God to man, pure,
light wine; and the American nation shall become a really temperate people.

And there is room for all. Let every one further the cause of grape-
culture. The laborer by producing the grapes and wine; the mechanic by
inventions; the law-giver by making laws furthering its culture, and the
consumption of it; and all by drinking wine, in wise moderation of course.

WINE MAKING MADE EASY.

Some of my readers may think I did not look much to this, which I told
them was one of the objects of this little work. To vindicate it and myself I
will here state, that our object should always be to attain the highest
perfection in everything. But, while I am aware that I have generally given
the outline of operations on a large scale, I have never for a moment lost
sight of the interests of those, who, like myself, are compelled, by bitter
necessity, to commence at the lowest round of the ladder. And how could I
forget the bitter experience of my first years, when hindered by want of
means; but also the feelings of sincere joy, of glad triumph, when I had
surmounted one more obstacle, and saw the path open wider before me at
every step; and I can, therefore, fully sympathize with the poor laborer, who
has nothing but his industrious hands and honest will to commence with.

While, therefore, it is most advantageous to follow grape-growing and
wine-making with all the conveniences of well prepared soil, substantial

trellis, a commodious wine cellar and all its appurtenances; yet, it is also
possible to do without most of these conveniencies in the beginning, and yet
succeed. If the grape-grower has not capital to spare to buy wire, he can, if
he has timber on his land, split laths and nail them to the posts instead of
wire. He can layer his plants even the first summer, and thus raise a stock
for further planting; or dispose of them, as already mentioned in the
beginning of this work. Or he can lease a piece of land from some one who
wishes to have a vineyard planted on it, and who will furnish the plants to
him, besides the necessary capital for the first year or so. I have contracted
with several men without means in this manner, furnished them a small
house, the necessary plants, and paid them $150 the first two years, they
giving me half the returns of the vineyards, in plants and grapes; and they
have become wealthy by such means. One of my tenants has realized over
$8,000 for his share the last season, and will very likely realize the same
amount next season.

And if he cannot afford to build a large cellar in the beginning, he can
also do with a small one, even the most common house cellar will do
through the winter, if it is only kept free from frost. One of our most
successful wine-growers here, commenced his operations with a simple
hole in the ground, dug under his house, and his first wine press was merely
a large beam, let into a tree, which acted as a lever upon the grapes, with a
press-bed, also of his own making. A few weeks ago the same man sold his
last year's crop of wine for over $9,000 in cash, and has raised some $2,000
worth more in vines, cuttings, etc. Of course, it is not advisable to keep the
wine over summer in an indifferent cellar, but during fermentation and the
greater part of winter, it will answer very well, and he can easily dispose of
his wine, if good, as soon as clear. Or he can dispose of his grapes at a fair
price, to one of his neighbors, or take them to market.

But there is another consideration, which I cannot urge too strongly upon
my readers, and which will do much to make grape-growing and wine-
making easy. It is the forming of grape colonies, of grape-growers' villages.
The advantages of such a colony will be easily seen. If each one has a small
piece of suitable land, (and he does not need a large one to follow grape-
growing), the neighbors can easily assist each other in ploughing and sub-
soiling; they will be able to do with fewer work animals, as they can hitch

together, and first prepare the soil for one and then for the other; the ravages
of birds and insects will hardly be felt; they can join together, and build a
large cellar in common, where each one can deliver and store his wine, and
of which one perhaps better acquainted with the management of wine than
the others, and whom all are willing to trust, can have the management. If
there should be no such man among them, an experienced cooper can be
hired by all, who can also manufacture the necessary casks. An association
of that kind has also, generally, the preference in the market over a single
individual, and they are able to obtain a higher price for their products, if
they are of good quality.

There are thousands upon thousands of acres of the best grape lands yet
to be had in the West, especially in Missouri, at a merely nominal price,
which would be well adapted for settlements of that kind; where the virgin
soil yet waits only the bidding of intelligent labor—of enterprising and
industrious men—to bring forth the richest fruits. There is room for all—
may it soon be filled with willing hearts to undertake the task.

And how much easier for you to-day, men with the active hand and
intelligent brain, to commence—with the certainty of success before you—
with varieties which will yield a large and sure return every year; with the
market open before you, and the experience of those who have commenced,
to guide you; with the reputation of American wines established; with
double the price per gallon—and ten times the yield—compared with the
beginner of only ten years ago, with nothing but uncertainty; uncertainty of
yield, uncertainty of quality, of price, and of effecting a sale.

It took a brave heart then, and an iron will; the determination to succeed,
—succeed against all obstacles. And yet, hundreds have commenced thus,
and have succeeded. Can you hesitate, when the future is all bright before
you, and the thousand and one obstacles have been overcome? If you do,
you are not fit to be a grape-grower. Go toil and drudge for so many cents
per day, in some factory, and end life as you have begun it. God's free air,
the cultivation of one of His noblest gifts, destined to "make glad the heart
in this rugged world of ours," is not for you. I may pity you, but I cannot
sympathize with nor assist you, except by raising a cheap glass of wine to
gladden even your cheerless lot.

Fig. 38.
Maxatawny.—Berries ½ diameter.

STATISTICS.

COST OF ESTABLISHING A VINEYARD.

In this, of course, allowances must be made for soil, locality, cost of
plants, cost of timber, etc., which will vary with the locality. The estimation
given here is about what it would cost here, with the leading varieties.

COST OF AN ACRE OF CONCORD.

$ 50
Preparing ground by ploughing, laying off, etc.,
00
700 first-class yearling plants, to be planted 6×10,
84 00
$12 per hundred,
450 posts, 15 feet apart, 10 cents each, 45 00
450 intermediate stakes, 3 cents each, 13 50
600 lbs. No. 12 wire, 16 cents per lb., 96 00
Cost of erecting trellis, 50 00
Attendance, labor, etc., during first year, 50 00
Interest on capital, 20 00
$408
50

The following year the vineyard can be made to pay all expenses, by
layering, etc.

COST OF AN ACRE OF HERBEMONT.

Preparing ground, 50 00
700 first class plants, 6×10, $25 per hundred, 175 00
450 posts, 10 cents each, 45 00
450 stakes, 3 cents each, 13 50
600 lbs. wire, 16 cents per lb., 96 00
Cost of erecting trellis, 50 00
Attendance, labor, during first two years, 125 00
Interest on capital during first two years, 66 00
$620 50

COST OF AN ACRE OF NORTON'S VIRGINIA.

Preparation of soil, etc., 50 00
850 plants, first class, to be planted 6×8, $25 per
212 50
hundred,
450 posts, 10 cents each, 45 00
450 stakes, 3 cents each, 13 50
600 lbs. No. 12 wire, 16 cents per lb., 96 00
Cost of erecting trellis, 50 00
Attendance, labor, etc., during first two years, 125 00
Interest on capital during first two years, at 6 per
70 00
cent. per annum,
$662
00

COST OF AN ACRE OF DELAWARE.

Cost of preparing ground, 50 00
1,200 first-class plants, planted 6×6, 400 00
450 posts, 10 cents each, 45 00

450 stakes, 3 cents each, 13 50
600 lbs. No. 12 wire, 16 cents per lb. 96 00
Cost of erecting trellis, 50 00
Cost of cultivation two first years, 125 00
Interest on capital two years, 92 00
$871 50

COST OF AN ACRE OF CATAWBA.

Preparing ground, 50 00
Cost of 1,200 plants, 6×6, 45 00
450 posts, 10 cents each, 45 00
450 stakes, 3 cents each, 13 50
600 lbs. wire, 16 cents per lb., 96 00
Cost of erecting trellis, 50 00
Attendance during two years, 125 00
Interest on capital two years, 39 00
$463 50

PRODUCT.

The following has been the produce of a vineyard of Catawba, now under
my management, since 1849:

Vines Gallons Yield per
Bearing season. bearing. of Wine. Price. acre.
1849, 1st year, 1,500 750 $1.25 $600 00
1850, 2d year, 2,000 150 1.25 95 00
1851, 3d year, 2,000 500 1.25 300 00
1852, 4th year, 1,800 210 1.25 120 00
1853. 5th year, 1,500 580 1.25 500 00
1854, 6th year, 2,500 750 1.50 600 00
1855, 7th year, 3,000 230 2.00 150 00

1856 8th year, 4,000 150 2.00 75 00
1857 9th year, 4,000 2,000 1.20 600 00
10th
1858, 4,000 210 1.20 60 00
year,
11th
1859, 4,200 1,200 1.20 360 00
year,
12th
1860, 4,200 1,300 1.25 405 00
year,
13th
1861, 4,200 150 1.00 37 50
year,
14th
1862, 4,200 20 2.00 10 00
year,
15th
1863, 4,200 150 2.00 75 00
year,
16th
1864, 4,200 150 2.00 75 00
year,
17th
1865, 4,200 500 2.00 250 00
year,

Which will show the average yield per
250 00
acre, to have been somewhat over
Deduct from this cost of labor per
year, per acre, 50 00
Interest on capital, 40 00–90 00
Would leave a clear profit, per acre, of 160 00

The poor returns were nearly all occasioned by mildew and rot, with the
exception of 1862, when a very destructive hail-storm swept away almost
the entire crop; and in 1864, when the vines were all killed down to the
snow line by frost the preceding winter.

The following is the cost of a vineyard planted by me in May, 1861,
containing about 3,000 vines, on 2½ acres of ground. The ground could not

be made ready until late in the season, consequently many of the vines
failed to grow, and had to be replanted the second season:

$20.00 per
1700 Norton's Virginia, 340 00
hundred,
400 Concord (small), 25 per hundred, 100 00
350 Delaware, 50 per hundred, 175 00
150 Herbemont, 25 per hundred, 37 50
50 Cunningham, 50 per hundred, 25 00
Other varieties assorted, 100 00
Cost of clearing, ploughing, and
$50 per acre, 125 00
planting,
Putting up trellis, $150 per acre, 375 00
Interest on capital, 100 00
$1,377
50
PRODUCT.

For layers and cuttings made 1st year, 339 00
For layers and cuttings made 2d year, 1200 00
For layers and cuttings made 3d year, 2500 00
Concord grapes sold, 2,000 lbs., net 16 cents, 320 00
Plants and cuttings fourth year, 4000 00
2,040 lbs. of grapes (Concord), marketed at 24
cents per lb., net 489 60
$8,848 60

PRODUCE FIFTH YEAR.

1,030 gallons Concord at $2.50 $2,575 00
1,300 gallons Norton's Virginia 4.00 5,200 00
125 gallons Herbemont 3.00 375 00
30 gallons Cunningham 4.00 120 00
40 gallons Delaware 6.00 240 00
10 gallons Clinton 3.00 30 00
50 gallons Other Varieties 3.00 150 00
336 gallons Hartford Prolific Grapes 20 cts. per lb. 67 20
57,000 Plants from cuttings and
layers, average
price $100 per thousand 5,700 00
$14,457 20

Leaving the product of the first five
$23,305 80
years
From which deduct expenses for
1,277
plants, trellis, etc.,
Interest on capital at 5 per cent. 500
Cost of labor 1st. year, 150
Cost of labor 2d. year, 300
Cost of labor 3d. year, 400
Cost of labor 4th. year, 500
Cost of labor 5th. year, 500
Total Cost $3,627
Leaves clear profit for first five years
$19,679 80
of

The fourth year, nearly all the fruit buds of the vines had been killed
above the snow line, but I made, besides the grapes sold, about $1,500
worth of wine, which was emptied by the rebels in their raid that fall, and

consequently lost. The vines were not all in bearing this last season, for
reasons already given; and the whole amount of vines bearing, was not
more than 2,200—hardly two acres. If my readers will contrast this with the
yield of the Catawba vineyard, they will see the difference in yield between
varieties suited to the climate and soil, and those unused to it.

The last season—although unfavorable to the Catawba—produced an
enormous yield of Concord and Norton's Virginia, and cannot be taken as
an average crop. I think about 700 gallons of Norton's Virginia, and 1,200
gallons of Concord would be a fair average estimate per year—which the
vines can easily produce, and remain healthy and vigorous.

YIELD OF MR. MICHAEL POESCHEL's VINEYARD.—CATAWBA.

Year after Acres in
Yield. Price.
planting. Vines.
1847, 2d 5-6 24 gallons 2.00
1848, 3d 3-6 1,000 gallons 2.00
1849, 4th 2 600 gallons 1.50
1850, 5th 2 350 gallons 1.25
1851, 6th 2½ 450 gallons 1.75
1852, 7th 2½ 500 gallons 1.50
1853, 8th 2½ 350 gallons 2.00
1854, 9th 3½ 800 gallons 2.00
1855, 10th 3½ 50 gallons 1.50
1856, 11th 3½ 1,000 gallons 1.25
1857, 12th 6 4,500 gallons 1.50
1858, 13th 6 1,100 gallons 1.75
1859, 14th 6 1,500 gallons 1.50
1860, 15th 6 2,000 gallons 1.25
1861, 16th 6 250 gallons 1.00
1862, 17th 6 300 gallons 1.50
1863, 18th 8 2,000 gallons 1.15

NEW VINEYARD OF MR. MICHAEL POESCHEL, PLANTED IN
1861, 1863—FIRST PARTIAL CROP.

500 Gallons Norton's Virginia—2 acres, at
$1,500 00
$3 per gallon
Grapes sold from ½ acre of Concords 400 00
Plants from cuttings and layers sold 2,000 00
$3,900 00

1864.—SECOND CROP.—VINES BADLY FROSTED IN WINTER.

2 Acres of Norton's Virginia produced 600
$2,700 00
gallons, at $4 50
2½ Acres of Catawba, produced 400 gallons,
850 00
at $2 15
Grapes sold from ½ acre of Concord 400 00
Plants sold 1,500 00
$5,450 00

1865—THIRD CROP.

2¾ Acres of Norton's Virginia, produced 2,000
8,000 00
gallons at $4
2½ Acres Catawba, produced 450 gallons at $1
787 50
75

1¼ Acres Concord, produced 1,000 gallons, at
2,500 00
$250
½ acre Herbemont produced 400 gallons, at $3
1,200 00
per gallon,
½ acre Rulander produced 50 gallons, at $5 250 00
Plants sold, 1,500 00
$14,237 50

This vineyard was trenched at an average cost of $120 dollars to the acre,
and most of the vines are planted 5×5, evidently too close. They are trained
to wire trellis, as described in a former part of this work, and receive close
attention, and the very best cultivation.

YIELD OF VINEYARD OF MR. WILLIAM POESCHEL—1857.

1½ acres of Catawba produced 1,050 gallons of
1,402 50
wine; sold at

1858.
1¾ acres of Catawba produced 250 gallons;
275 00
sold at $1.10 per gallon,

1859.
1¾ acres Catawba produced 300 gallons; sold at
375 00
$1.25 per gallon,

1860.
2 acres of Catawba produced 8,843 lbs. of
884 30
grapes; sold at 10c. per lb.,
120 gallons of wine, at $1.20 per gallon, 144 00
230 gallons of wine, at $0.95 per gallon, 218 50
Plants sold, 600 00
$1,846 80

1861.
2 acres of Catawba produced 270 gallons, at
283 50
$1.05 per gallon,
Plants sold, 500 00
$783 50

1862.
2 acres Catawba produced 6,718 lbs. of grapes;
604 62
sold at 9 cents per lb.,
225 gallons of wine, sold at $1.25 per gallon, 281 25
75 gallons of Norton's Virginia, from about 1-
206 25
10th of an acre, at $2.75 per gallon,
Plants sold, 650 00
$1,742 12

1863—2¼ ACRES IN ALL.
720 gallons of Catawba, at $1.85 per gallon, 1,332 00
60 gallons of Concord, at $2.00 per gallon, 120 00
70 gallons of Herbemont, at $2 per gallon, 140 00
40 gallons of Norton's Virginia, $3 per gallon, 120 00
Plants sold, 800 00
$2,512 00

1864—2¼ ACRES IN BEARING; VINES BADLY
FROSTED.
45 gallons Catawba, $2.00 per gallon, 90 00
42 gallons Concord, 2.50 per gallon, 105 00
20 gallons Norton's Virginia and Delaware
105 00
mixed, at $5.25 per gallon,
10 gallons Norton's Virginia, second class, at $3 30 00
Plants sold, 300 00
$630 00

1865—5 ACRES IN BEARING.

2½ acre Catawba produced 900 galls., at $1.75, 1,575 00
½ acre Concord produced 700 galls., at $2.50, 1,750 00
1 acre Norton's Vir. produced 600 galls., at
2,400 00
$4.00,
1/3 acre Delaware produced 120 galls., at $5.00, 600 00
½ acre Herbemont produced 350 galls., at
875 00
$2.50,
Balance in other varieties, 150 00
Plants sold, 940 00
$8,290 00

This vineyard has one of the best locations for Catawba and Delaware in
the neighborhood, and its proprietor one of the most intelligent and
industrious cultivators and wine-manufacturers in the vicinity.

The following are copied from the report of a special committee
appointed by the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, to inquire into the
condition of vineyards, and report whether or not grape-growing was still
profitable. I regret to say that our Cincinnati friends have not, generally
speaking, paid as much attention to the introduction and testing of better
varieties—and there are but few vineyards in that neighborhood—where
any other variety than the Catawba has been planted to any extent. It is to
be hoped that the signal failure of that variety last season will do much to
open their eyes to the full importance of the subject, and to abandon the
Catawba, which evidently will not pay any longer.

But, as we have already said, there are other varieties of grapes being
successfully grown in this vicinity, and we have extended our researches to
some of those vineyards, and give the results as follows:—

Ives' Seedling is a grape of much promise, not addicted to mildew and
rot. Col. Wahring, of Indian Hill, in this county, has a small vineyard, only
two acres in bearing, which made, the past season, 650 gallons of wine. The
season previous, only one acre in bearing, yielded 560 gallons. The Colonel
makes his account for the past season's business stand as follows:—

650 gallons of wine, sold at $4.10 per gallon, $2,665 00

Sale of cuttings, 1,500 00
$4,165 00
Deduct cost of taking care of vineyard, 100 00
Leaving net product of vineyard, $4,065 00
Or over $2,000 per acre.

Norton's Virginia is another promising grape that is being grown
considerably hereabouts.

The Messrs. Bogen have given us their figures for the product of this
grape, as follows:

1863—From 1½ acres, first year in bearing,
$1,500 00
they made 500 gallons, sold at $3 per gallon,
Sale of cuttings, 400 00
Sale of roots from layers, 800 00
$2,700 00
Deduct from this, for cost of culture, 100 00
Leaves net, $2,600 00
Or $1,733 per acre.
1864—Yield of same in wine and cuttings, 2,300 00
Or about $1,500 per acre.

Delaware is another grape of very great promise and profit, now being
extensively grown throughout the country. The Messrs. Bogen, from one-
third of an acre, first bearing year, give us the following figures for the past
season:

87 gallons of wine, sold at $6 per gallon, 522 00
Sold cuttings, 450 00
Sold roots from layers, 2,050 00
$3,022 00
Deduct cost of culture, 22 00
$3,000 00
Or $9,000 per acre.

Mr. J. E. Mottier gives us, as the result of his Delaware vineyard for the
past two years, as follows:

1863—FROM 1½ ACRES.
165 gallons of wine, sold at $5 per gallon, $825 00
Sale of cuttings, 1,630 00
2,455 00
Deduct expenses, 200 00
Leaving net, $2,255 00
Or $1,504 per acre.

1864—FROM SAME VINEYARD.
200 gallons of wine, at $6 per gallon, $1,200 00
Sold roots from layers, 1,835 00
Sales of cuttings, 2,360 00
5,395 00
Deduct expenses, 200 00
Leaves net, $5,195 00
Or $3,562 per acre

Mr. Mottier says he might have obtained a larger yield of wine, but his
vineyard being young, he would not allow it to overbear.

Your committee, therefore, take pleasure in submitting the foregoing
facts, in refutation, in part, of the loose and reckless statements of Mr.
Yeatman, and take this method of entering their protest against the same.

(Signed),

E. A. Thompson.
John E. Mottier.

The foregoing contains some valuable facts, but it would seem to me that
our Cincinnati friends have hardly estimated labor and expenses high
enough. We cannot begin to cultivate our vineyards at as low an estimate.

The following is a rough estimate of the last season's crop around
Hermann. It may be rather inaccurate, but it is about as near as I could come
to the result. There are now, I suppose, something like 1,000 acres planted
in grapes, of which about 400 may be in bearing. Unfortunately, nearly all
the old vineyards are planted with the Catawba, which was almost an entire
failure this season, the average crop being only about 75 gallons to the acre.
Most of the later planting has been done with the Concord and Norton's
Virginia, but these vineyards are not bearing yet. Of the Norton's Virginia,
the average crop the last season may have been about 600 gallons to the
acre; of the Concord, 1,000 gallons per acre. The Herbemont may have
yielded about 800 gallons to the acre.

Grapes marketed, mostly Concord, 20,000 lbs.
$3,000 00
average price, 15c. per lb.,
Catawba wine made, about 25,000 gallons;
37,500 00
average value, $1.50 per gallon,
Norton's Virginia wine made, about 10,000
40,000 00
gallons; average value, $4 per gallon,
Concord wine made, about 5,000 gallons;
12,500 00
average value, $2.50 per gallon,
Herbemont wine made, about 1,500 gallons;
4,500 00
average value, $3 per gallon,
Other varieties made, about 1,000 gallons;
3,000 00
average value, $3 per gallons,
Grape roots, cuttings, etc., grown and sold, 50,000 00
$150,500 00

I think the above is rather below the real amount; and the value of the
crop may come up even as high as $200,000.

Although grape culture is followed to a larger extent around Hermann
than anywhere in the State, yet there are also a great many grapes grown
and wine made around Boonville, in Cooper County; and Augusta, St.
Charles County; also, Hannibal, on the Mississippi river; and St. Joseph, on
the Missouri; and there is hardly a county in the State now but has some
flourishing vineyards.

The above facts may serve to give my readers a clearer insight into the
cost and profits of grape-growing, and also the comparative varieties. In
every case, the figures given can be relied on as actual facts.

In our neighboring States, Illinois and Iowa, grape-growing is
progressing rapidly. There are already a number of vineyards established in
the neighborhood of Alton, Belleville, Mascoutah, Warsaw, and Nauvoo, in
Illinois; and in the neighborhood of Burlington and Davenport, in Iowa. I
am told that in the neighborhood of Makanda alone, in Jackson County,
Illinois, at least 70,000 vines of the Concord will be planted the coming
spring.

Our sister State, Kansas, is also progressing bravely in the good work;
and I do not think that, although our propagators throughout the country
have done their best, there will be half the number of vines for sale that are
wanted to meet the demand.

But, while I am fully aware of the importance of grape-culture
everywhere, I cannot help but believe that the southwest will take the
preference in grape-growing over the eastern and northern States. We have
the advantages of longer seasons and a warmer climate, generally of richer
soil, of cheaper lands; we can cultivate varieties which cannot be grown by
our eastern brethren, and therefore all the chances are on our side. The
mountainous regions of Tennessee, Georgia, Arkansas, Texas, and Alabama
may, perhaps, rival and even surpass us in the future, but their inhabitants at
present are not of the clay from which grape-growers are formed. They still
cling to the demon of slavery, and their hatred of northern industrious
freemen seems to be stronger than their love of prosperity. Let us hope that
a better spirit may prevail, that they will in time begin to see their own
interest, and welcome with open arms every one who can assist them in
developing the natural advantages of their lands. The grape can only
flourish on free soil, and by free intelligent labor.

*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE
CULTIVATION OF THE NATIVE GRAPE, AND MANUFACTURE OF
AMERICAN WINES ***

Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will be
renamed.

Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright law
means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the
Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States
without permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules,
set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to copying
and distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the
PROJECT GUTENBERG™ concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a
registered trademark, and may not be used if you charge for an eBook,
except by following the terms of the trademark license, including paying
royalties for use of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge
anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is
very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation
of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project Gutenberg
eBooks may be modified and printed and given away—you may do
practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected by
U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark license,
especially commercial redistribution.

START: FULL LICENSE

THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG™ LICENSE
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK

To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free
distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work (or any
other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project Gutenberg”), you
agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project Gutenberg License
available with this file or online at www.gutenberg.org/license.

Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing
Project Gutenberg electronic works

1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg electronic work,
you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to and accept all the
terms of this license and intellectual property (trademark/copyright)
agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all the terms of this agreement,
you must cease using and return or destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg
electronic works in your possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy
of or access to a Project Gutenberg electronic work and you do not agree to
be bound by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the
person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.

1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be used on
or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who agree to be
bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few things that you can
do with most Project Gutenberg electronic works even without complying
with the full terms of this agreement. See paragraph 1.C below. There are a
lot of things you can do with Project Gutenberg electronic works if you
follow the terms of this agreement and help preserve free future access to
Project Gutenberg electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below.

1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the Foundation”
or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
Gutenberg electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the
collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an individual
work is unprotected by copyright law in the United States and you are

located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative works
based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg are
removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project Gutenberg
mission of promoting free access to electronic works by freely sharing
Project Gutenberg works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for
keeping the Project Gutenberg name associated with the work. You can
easily comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the
same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg License when you
share it without charge with others.

1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in a
constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check the
laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement before
downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or creating
derivative works based on this work or any other Project Gutenberg work.
The Foundation makes no representations concerning the copyright status
of any work in any country other than the United States.

1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:

1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
access to, the full Project Gutenberg License must appear prominently
whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg work (any work on which the
phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the phrase “Project
Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, copied
or distributed:

This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States
and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it
under the terms of the Project Gutenberg™ License included with
this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in
the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country
where you are located before using this eBook.

1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg electronic work is derived from
texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not contain a notice
indicating that it is posted with permission of the copyright holder), the
work can be copied and distributed to anyone in the United States without
paying any fees or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a
work with the phrase “Project Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on
the work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs
1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
Project Gutenberg trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.

1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg electronic work is posted with the
permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution must comply
with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional terms imposed
by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked to the Project
Gutenberg License for all works posted with the permission of the
copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.

1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg License
terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this work or any
other work associated with Project Gutenberg.

1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without prominently
displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with active links or
immediate access to the full terms of the Project Gutenberg License.

1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or
distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg work in a format other than “Plain
Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official version posted on the
official Project Gutenberg website (www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no
additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a copy, a means of
exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work
in its original “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format
must include the full Project Gutenberg License as specified in paragraph
1.E.1.

1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, performing,
copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg works unless you comply
with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.

1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing access to
or distributing Project Gutenberg electronic works provided that:

• You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from the
use of Project Gutenberg works calculated using the method you
already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed to the
owner of the Project Gutenberg trademark, but he has agreed to donate
royalties under this paragraph to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid within 60 days
following each date on which you prepare (or are legally required to
prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty payments should be clearly
marked as such and sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
Foundation at the address specified in Section 4, “Information about
donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.”

• You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he does
not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™ License. You
must require such a user to return or destroy all copies of the works
possessed in a physical medium and discontinue all use of and all
access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™ works.

• You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of
receipt of the work.

• You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free distribution
of Project Gutenberg™ works.

1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg™
electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set forth in
this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of the Project

Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3
below.

1.F.

1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread works
not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project Gutenberg™
collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™ electronic works, and
the medium on which they may be stored, may contain “Defects,” such as,
but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or corrupt data, transcription
errors, a copyright or other intellectual property infringement, a defective or
damaged disk or other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that
damage or cannot be read by your equipment.

1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except
for the “Right of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the
Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all liability to
you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal fees. YOU AGREE
THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT
EXCEPT THOSE PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE
THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY
DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE LIABLE
TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL,
PUNITIVE OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE
NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGE.

1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you
discover a defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you
can receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you
received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with the
defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a refund.
If you received the work electronically, the person or entity providing it to

you may choose to give you a second opportunity to receive the work
electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy is also defective, you
may demand a refund in writing without further opportunities to fix the
problem.

1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth in
paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’, WITH NO OTHER
WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING
BUT NOT LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR
FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.

1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied warranties or
the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. If any disclaimer or
limitation set forth in this agreement violates the law of the state applicable
to this agreement, the agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum
disclaimer or limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity
or unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the
remaining provisions.

1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in accordance
with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works,
harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, that
arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do or cause
to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg work, (b)
alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg
work, and (c) any Defect you cause.

Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project
Gutenberg

Project Gutenberg is synonymous with the free distribution of electronic
works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers including
obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists because of the

efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from people in all walks of
life.

Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the assistance
they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg’s goals and ensuring
that the Project Gutenberg collection will remain freely available for
generations to come. In 2001, the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
Foundation was created to provide a secure and permanent future for
Project Gutenberg and future generations. To learn more about the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations
can help, see Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at
www.gutenberg.org.

Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation

The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit 501(c)
(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the state of
Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal Revenue Service.
The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification number is 64-6221541.
Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation are tax
deductible to the full extent permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state’s
laws.

The Foundation’s business office is located at 41 Watchung Plaza #516,
Montclair NJ 07042, USA, +1 (862) 621-9288. Email contact links and up
to date contact information can be found at the Foundation’s website and
official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact

Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation

Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without widespread
public support and donations to carry out its mission of increasing the
number of public domain and licensed works that can be freely distributed
in machine-readable form accessible by the widest array of equipment

including outdated equipment. Many small donations ($1 to $5,000) are
particularly important to maintaining tax exempt status with the IRS.

The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United States.
Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a considerable effort,
much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up with these
requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations where we have not
received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND DONATIONS or
determine the status of compliance for any particular state visit
www.gutenberg.org/donate.

While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we have
not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition against
accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who approach us
with offers to donate.

International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make any
statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from outside the
United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.

Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation methods
and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other ways including
checks, online payments and credit card donations. To donate, please visit:
www.gutenberg.org/donate.

Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg
electronic works

Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg
concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared with
anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project Gutenberg
eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.

Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed editions,
all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in the U.S. unless a

copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily keep eBooks in
compliance with any particular paper edition.

Most people start at our website which has the main PG search facility:
www.gutenberg.org.

This website includes information about Project Gutenberg, including how
to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation,
how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to subscribe to our email
newsletter to hear about new eBooks.