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(of 3), Volume 1 (of 3)
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Title: The Greville Memoirs, Part 1 (of 3), Volume 1 (of 3)

Author: Charles Greville

Editor: Henry Reeve

Release date: June 5, 2008 [eBook #25700]

Language: English

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Transcriber’s Note:

In this work, all spellings and punctuation were reproduced from the

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original work except in the very few cases where an obvious typo
occurred. These typos are corrected without comment.

In the original volumes in this set, each even-numbered page had a
header consisting of the page number, the volume title, and the chapter
number. The odd-numbered page header consisted of the year of the diary
entry, a subject phrase, and the page number. In this set of e-books, the
year is included as part of the date (which in the original volume were in
the form reproduced here, minus the year). The subject phrase has been
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In the original book set, consisting of three volumes, the master index
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The Greville Memoirs

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A JOURNAL OF THE REIGNS

OF

KING GEORGE IV.

Page 6

AND

KING WILLIAM IV.

BY THE LATE

Charles C. F. Greville, Esq.
CLERK OF THE COUNCIL TO THOSE SOVEREIGNS

EDITED BY

HENRY REEVE
REGISTRAR OF THE PRIVY COUNCIL

IN THREE VOLUMES
VOL. I.

Second Edition

LONDON
LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
1874

Page 7

Page 8

CONTENTS.

Page 9

INDEX.

Page 10

PREFACE
BY THE EDITOR
The Author of these Journals requested me, in January 1865, a few days
before his death, to take charge of them with a view to publication at some
future time. He left that time to my discretion, merely remarking that
Memoirs of this kind ought not, in his opinion, to be locked up until they
had lost their principal interest by the death of all those who had taken any
part in the events they describe. He placed several of the earlier volumes at
once in my hands, and he intimated to his surviving brother and executor,
Mr. Henry Greville, his desire that the remainder should be given me for
this purpose. The injunction was at once complied with after Mr. Charles
Greville’s death, and this interesting deposit has now remained for nearly
ten years in my possession. In my opinion this period of time is long
enough to remove every reasonable objection to the publication of a
contemporary record of events already separated from us by a much longer
interval, for the transactions related in these volumes commence in 1818
and end in 1837. I therefore commit to the press that portion of these
Memoirs which embraces the Reigns of King George IV. and King William
IV., ending with the Accession of her present Majesty.
In accepting the trust and deposit which Mr. Greville thought fit to
place in my hands, I felt, and still feel, that I undertook a task and a duty of
considerable responsibility; but from the time and the manner in which it
was offered me I could not decline it. I had lived for more than five-and-
twenty years in the daily intercourse of official life and private friendship
with Mr. Greville. Sir George Cornewall Lewis, to whom he had previously
intended to leave these Journals, died before him. After that event, deeply to
be regretted on so many accounts, Mr. Greville did me the honour to select
me for the performance of this duty, which was unexpected by myself; and
my strong attachment and gratitude to him for numberless acts of kindness
and marks of confidence bound me by every consideration to obey and
execute the wishes of my late friend.

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In the discharge of this trust I have been guided by no other motive
than the desire to present these Memorials to the world in a manner which
their Author would not have disapproved, and in strict conformity with his
own wishes and injunctions. He himself, it should be said, had frequently
revised them with great care. He had studiously omitted and erased
passages relating to private persons or affairs, which could only serve to
gratify the love of idle gossip and scandal. The Journals contain absolutely
nothing relating to his own family, and but little relating to his private life.
In a passage (not now published) of his own writings, the Author remarks:
—

‘A journal to be good, true, and interesting, should be written
without the slightest reference to publication, but without any
fear of it: it should be the transcript of a mind that can bear
transcribing. I always contemplate the possibility that hereafter
my journal will be read, and I regard with alarm and dislike the
notion of its containing matters about myself which nobody will
care to know’ (January 2nd, 1838).

These notes were designed chiefly to preserve a record of the less
known causes and details of public events which came under the Author’s
observation, and they are interspersed with the conversations of many of the
eminent men with whom he associated. But it must be borne in mind that
they are essentially what they profess to be—a contemporary record of facts
and opinions, not altered or made up to square with subsequent experience.
Hence some facts may be inaccurately stated, because they are given in the
shape they assumed at the time they were recorded, and some opinions and
judgments on men and things are at variance (as he himself acknowledges
and points out) with those at which the writer afterwards arrived on the
same persons and subjects. Our impressions of what is passing around us
vary so rapidly and so continually, that a contemporary record of opinion,
honestly preserved, differs very widely from the final and mature judgment
of history: yet the judgment of history must be based upon contemporary
evidence. It was remarked by an acute observer to Mr. Greville himself, that
the nuances in political society are so delicate and numerous, the details so
nice and varying, that unless caught at the moment they escape, and it is

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impossible to collect them again. That is the charm and the merit of genuine
contemporary records.
The two leading qualities in the mind of Mr. Greville were the love of
truth and the love of justice. His natural curiosity, which led him to track
out and analyse the causes of events with great eagerness, was stimulated
by the desire to arrive at their real origin, and to award to everyone, with
judicial impartiality, what appeared to him to be a just share of
responsibility. Without the passions or the motives of a party politician, he
ardently sympathised with the cause of Liberal progress and Conservative
improvement, or, as he himself expresses it, with Conservative principles
on a Liberal basis. He was equally opposed to the prejudices of the old Tory
aristocracy, amongst whom he had been brought up, and to the impetuous
desire of change which achieved in his time so many vast and various
triumphs. His own position, partly from the nature of the permanent office
he held in the Privy Council, and partly from his personal intimacies with
men of very opposite opinions, was a neutral one; but he used that neutral
position with consummate judgment and address to remove obstacles, to
allay irritations, to compose differences, and to promote, as far as lay in his
power, the public welfare. Contented with his own social position, he was
alike free from ambition and from vanity. No man was more entirely
disinterested in his judgments on public affairs, for he had long made up his
mind that he had nothing to gain or to lose by them, and in the opinions he
formed, and on occasion energetically maintained, he cared for nothing but
their justice and their truth. I trust that I do not deceive myself in the belief
that the impressions of such a man, faithfully rendered at the time, on the
events happening around him, will be thought to possess a permanent value
and interest. But I am aware that opinions governed by no party standard
will appear to a certain extent to be fluctuating and even inconsistent. I have
not thought it consistent with my duty as the Editor of these papers to
suppress or modify any of the statements or opinions of their Author on
public men or public events; nor do I hold myself in any way responsible
for the tenor of them. Some of these judgments of the writer may be thought
harsh and severe, and some of them were subsequently mitigated by
himself. But those who enter public life submit their conduct and their lives
to the judgment of their contemporaries and of posterity, and this is
especially true of those who fill the most exalted stations in society. Every

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act, almost every thought, which is brought home to them leaves its mark,
and those who come after them cannot complain that this mark is as
indelible as their fame. The only omissions I have thought it right to make
are a few passages and expressions relating to persons and occurrences in
private life, in which I have sought to publish nothing which could give
pain or annoyance to persons still alive.
It will be observed that these Journals begin in the year 1818, when
Mr. Greville was barely twenty-four years of age, and indeed I possess
some notes of an earlier period, which it was not thought desirable to
include in this publication. At that age Mr. Greville had but a short
experience of life, without the opportunities of information which he
subsequently enjoyed; consequently the first two or three chapters of the
first volume are of secondary interest, and the political value of the work
begins with the retirement of Lord Liverpool. But it is by his own express
desire that these chapters are retained to complete the series, and the
particulars relating to the Duke of York and to the Queen’s trial are not
without interest. As the Author advanced in life his narrative increases in
value both in substance and in style, and the most important portion of it is
that which must at present be reserved for future publication.
Of the Author of these Journals it may suffice to say that Charles
Cavendish Fulke Greville was the eldest of the three sons of Charles
Greville (who was grandson of the fifth Lord Warwick), by Lady Charlotte
Cavendish Bentinck, eldest daughter of William Henry, third Duke of
Portland, K.G., who filled many great offices of State. He was born on the
2nd of April, 1794. Much of his childhood was spent at his grandfather’s
house at Bulstrode. He was educated at Eton and at Christ Church, Oxford;
but he left the University early, having been appointed private secretary to
Earl Bathurst before he was twenty.
The influence of the Duke of Portland obtained for him early in life the
sinecure appointment of the Secretaryship of Jamaica, the duties of that
office being performed by deputy, and likewise the reversion of the
Clerkship of the Council. He entered in 1821 upon the duties of Clerk of the
Council in Ordinary, which he discharged for nearly forty years. During the
last twenty years of his life Mr. Greville occupied a suite of rooms in the
house of Earl Granville in Bruton Street, and there, on the 18th of January,

Page 14

1865, he expired. I was with him on the previous evening until he retired to
rest; from that sleep he never woke.
No additions whatever have been made to the text of these Journals.
The passages occasionally interposed in a parenthesis, at a later date, to
correct or comment upon a previous statement, are all by the hand of the
Author. So likewise are the notes distinguished by no mark. For the notes
included in brackets [] the Editor is responsible.
Henry Reeve.
October 1st, 1874

Page 15

Contents of the First Volume
CHAPTER I.

Queen Charlotte — Duchesses of Cumberland and Cambridge
— Westminster Election — Contest between Sir Francis Burdett
and Sir Murray Maxwell — London Election — Oatlands —
The Duke of York — Duchess of York — Ampthill — Tixall —
Mr. Luttrell — Lady Granville — Teddesley — Macao —
Burleigh — Middleton — Lady Jersey — The New Parliament
— Tierney and Pitt — Princess Lieven — Madame de Staël on
the French Revolution — Westminster Election — Hobhouse
Defeated — Scarlett’s Maiden Speech — Influence of Party —
Play — The Persian Ambassador at Court — Prince Leopold —
Woburn — Anecdote of the Allies — Death of George III. —
Illness of George IV. — Queen Caroline — Fleury de
Chabaulon — The Cato Street Conspiracy — George IV. at
Ascot — Marchioness of Conyngham — Queen Caroline in
London — Message to Parliament — Debates —
Insubordination in the Guards — Wilberforce’s Motion —
Proceedings against the Queen — ‘Les Liaisons dangereuses’ —
The Queen’s Trial — The Duke of Wellington on the Battle of
Waterloo and the Occupation of Paris.

CHAPTER II.

Popularity of George IV. — The Duke of York’s Racing
Establishment — Clerk of the Council — Lord Liverpool and
Mr. Sumner — Lady Conyngham — Death of Lady Worcester
— Her Character — Ball at Devonshire House — The Duke of
York’s Aversion to the Duke of Wellington — The Pavilion at
Brighton — Lord Francis Conyngham — The King and the
Duke of Wellington — Death of the Marquis of Londonderry —
His Policy — Sir B. Bloomfield sent to Stockholm — Mr.
Canning’s Foreign Secretary — Queen Caroline and Brougham

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— Canning and George IV. — Lord William Bentinck aspires to
go to India — His Disappointment — The Duke of York’s Duel
with Colonel Lennox — George III.’s Will — George IV.
appropriates the late King’s Personal Property — The Duke of
Wellington on the Congress of Verona and on the Politics of
Europe — Intervention in Spain — Ferdinand VII. — M. de
Villèle — The Duke’s Opinion of Napoleon — Sir William
Knighton — The Duke of York’s Anecdotes of George IV. —
Death of the Marquis of Titchfield — His Character

CHAPTER III.

The Panic of 1825 — Death of the Emperor Alexander — The
Duke of Wellington’s Embassy to St. Petersburg — Robinson
Chancellor of the Exchequer — Small Notes Bill — Death of
Arthur de Ros — George III. and Lord Bute — Illness and
Death of the Duke of York — His Funeral — Lord Liverpool
struck with Paralysis — Rundell’s Fortune and Will — Copley
and Philpots — The Cottage — Formation of Mr. Canning’s
Administration — Secession of the Tories — The Whigs join
him — Dinner at the Royal Lodge — Difficulties of Canning’s
Government — Duke of Wellington visits the King —
Canning’s Death — Anecdotes of Mr. Canning — Recognition
of South American States — His Industry — The Duke of
Wellington on Canning — Lord Goderich’s Administration
formed — The Difficulty about Herries — Position of the Whigs
— The King’s Letter to Herries — Peel and George IV. —
Interview of Lord Lansdowne with the King — Weakness of the
Government — First Resignation of Lord Goderich — Lord
Harrowby declines the Premiership — Lord Goderich returns —
Brougham and Rogers — Conversation and Character of
Brougham — Lord Goderich’s Ministry dissolved — Cause of
its Dissolution — Hostility of Herries — Position of Huskisson
and his Friends — Herries and Huskisson both join the New
Cabinet

CHAPTER IV.

Page 17

The Duke of Wellington’s Administration — Huskisson’s
Speech — Irritation of Mr. Canning’s Friends — Tom
Duncombe’s Maiden Speech — Mr. Huskisson resigns and the
Canningites quit the Government — Princess Lieven hostile to
the Duke — The Catholic Question — Jockey Club Dinner at
St. James’s — Lord Lyndhurst — Sir Robert Adair — Fox and
Burke — Fox and Pitt — The Lord High Admiral dismissed by
the King — Dawson’s Speech on Catholic Emancipation — The
King’s Health — His Pages — State of Ireland — Marquis of
Anglesey — O’Connell — His Influence in Ireland — Lord
Belmore Governor of Jamaica — The Duke’s Letter to Dr.
Curtis — Recall of Lord Anglesey from Ireland — Causes of
this Event — Excitement of the King on the Catholic Question
— His Aversion to Sir William Knighton — Character of
George IV. — Denman’s Silk Gown — Pension to Lady
Westmeath — Duke of Wellington on Russia — The Reis-
Effendi — Duke of Northumberland goes to Ireland — Privy
Council Register — State Paper Office — The Gunpowder Plot
— Catholic Emancipation — Navarino

CHAPTER V.

The Catholic Relief Bill — Inconsistency of the Tories — The
Catholic Association — Dinner at Charles Grant’s — The
Terceira Expedition — Tory Discontent — Peel resigns his Seat
for Oxford University — A Blunder in Chancery — The Oxford
Election — Influence of the Duke of Wellington — Debate of
Royal Dukes — Peel beaten — Sir Edward Codrington —
Violence of the King — Intrigues to defeat the Catholic Bill —
The Duke of Cumberland — Furious State of Parties —
Matuscewitz — Peel’s Speech on Catholic Emancipation —
Exclusion of O’Connell from his Seat for Clare — Pitt’s View of
Catholic Emancipation — ‘Musæ Cateatonenses’ — ‘Thorough’
— Mr. Lowther not turned out — Duke of Newcastle’s
Audience of George IV. — The King’s Personal Habits — The
Debate — Mr. Sadler — Hardness of the Duke of Wellington —
His Duel with Lord Winchelsea — The Bishops and the Bill —

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Sir Charles Wetherell — The King on the Duel — Lord
Winchelsea’s Pocket-handkerchief — Debate on the Catholic
Bill — The Duke of Richmond — Effects of Dawson’s Speech
on the King — The Bill in Jeopardy — Lady Jersey and Lord
Anglesey — Lord Falmouth and Lord Grey — O’Connell at
Dinner — The Duke breaks with Lord Eldon — Hibner the
Murderess — Theatrical Fund — The Levee — The Duke’s
Carriage stopped — The King’s Health — Lady Conyngham —
O’Connell’s Seat — Child’s Ball at Court — Princess Victoria
— Legal Appointments — Lord Palmerston on Foreign Affairs
— The King and Lord Sefton — The King’s Speech on the
Prorogation — Madame Du Cayla — George IV.’s Inaccuracy
— Conversation of the Duke of Wellington on the King and the
Duke of Cumberland

CHAPTER VI.

The Recorder’s Report — Manners of George IV — Intrigues of
the Duke of Cumberland — Insults Lady Lyndhurst — Deacon
Hume at the Board of Trade — Quarrel between the Duke of
Cumberland and the Lord Chancellor — A Bad Season —
Prostration of Turkey — France under Polignac — State of
Ireland — Mr. Windham’s Diary — George IV.’s Eyesight —
Junius — A Man without Money — Court-martial on Captain
Dickenson — The Duke and the ‘Morning Journal’ — Physical
Courage of the King — A Charade at Chatsworth — Huskisson
and the Duke — Irish Trials — Tom Moore — Scott — Byron
— Fanny Kemble — Sir James Mackintosh — His
Conversation — Black Irishmen — Moore’s Irish Story —
Moore’s Singing — George IV. and Mr. Denman — Strawberry
Hill — Moore at Trinity College — Indian Vengeance at
Niagara — Count Woronzow — Lord Glengall’s Play — The
Recorder’s Report

CHAPTER VII.

Chapter of the Bath — The Duc de Dino arrested — A Ball to
the Divan — English Policy in Greece — Sir Thomas Lawrence

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— Gallatin — Court of King’s Bench — Accident to the Grand
Duke Constantine — Osterley — Young Sidney Herbert —
Duke of Wellington in Office — Stapleton’s ‘Life of Canning’
— Death of Sir Thomas Lawrence — Leopold and the Throne
of Greece — Canning’s Answers to Lord Grey — Distressed
State of the Country — Canning’s Greatness and his Failings —
Death of Tierney — Sir Martin Shee President — The Duke of
Wellington’s Views and Conduct — The coming Session —
Moore’s ‘Life of Byron’ — Character of Byron — Opening of
Parliament — The Fire King — The Duke of Wellington’s
Speaking — The English Opera House burnt down — Lord
Thurlow on Kenyon and Buller — Old Rothschild —
Lansdowne House — Earl Stanhope — John Murray —
Departure for Italy

CHAPTER VIII.

Calais — Beau Brummell — Paris — The Polignac Ministry —
Polignac and Charles X. — The Duke of Orleans — State of
Parties — Talleyrand — Lyons — First Impressions of
Mountain Scenery — Mont Cenis — Turin — Marengo —
Genoa — Road to Florence — Pisa — Florence — Lord and
Lady Burghersh — Thorwaldsen — Lord Cochrane — Rome —
St. Peter’s — Frascati — Grotto Ferrata — Queen Hortense and
Louis Napoleon — Coliseum — Death of Lady Northampton —
The Moses — Gardens — Palm Sunday — Sistine Chapel —
The Cardinals — Popes — Cardinal Albani — The Farnese
Palace — A Dead Cardinal — Pasquin — Statue of Pompey —
Galleries and Catacombs — Bunsen — The Papal Benediction
— Ceremonies of the Holy Week — The Grand Penitentiary —
A Confession — Protestant Cemetery — Illumination of St.
Peter’s — Torlonia — Bunsen on the Forum

CHAPTER IX.

Lake of Albano — Velletri — Naples — Rapid Travelling in
1830 — A Trial at Naples — Deciphering Manuscripts — Ball
at the Duchesse d’Eboli’s — Matteis’s Plot and Trial — Pompeii

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— Taking the Veil — Pausilippo — Baiæ — La Cava —
Salerno — Pæstum — Lazaroni — Museum of Naples —
Grotto del Cane — The Camaldoli — Herculaneum — Vesuvius
— Sorrento — Miracle of St. Januarius — Astroni — Farewell
to Naples

CHAPTER X.

Moladi Gaeta — Capua — Lines on leaving Naples — Return
to Rome — The Aqueducts — ‘Domine, quo vadis?’ — St.
Peter’s — The Scala Santa — Reasons in Favour of San
Gennaro — Ascent of St. Peter’s — Library of the Vatican — A
racing ex voto — Illness of George IV. — Approaching Coup
d’État in France — The Villa Mills — The Malaria — Duc and
Duchesse de Dalberg — The Emperor Nicholas on his
Accession — Cardinal Albani — A Columbarium — Maii — Sir
William Gell — Tivoli — Hadrian’s Villa — The Adventures of
Miss Kelly and Mr. Swift — Audience of the Pope — Gibson’s
Studio — End of Miss Kelly’s Marriage — A Great Function —
The Jesuits — Saint-making — San Lorenzo in Lucina — The
Flagellants — Statues by Torchlight — Bunsen on the State of
Rome — Frascati — Relations of Protestant States with Rome
— The French Ministry — M. de Villèle — The Coliseum —
Excommunication of a Thief — The Passionists — The Corpus
Domini — A Rash Marriage — Farewell to Rome — Falls of
Terni — Statue at Pratolino — Bologna — Mezzofanti —
Ferrara — Venice — Padua — Vicenza — Brescia — Verona —
Milan — Lago Maggiore — The Simplon — Geneva — Paris

NOTE.
Mr. Greville’s Connexion with the Turf.

Page 21

A JOURNAL
OF THE
REIGN OF KING GEORGE THE
FOURTH

Page 22

CHAPTER I.
Queen Charlotte — Duchesses of Cumberland and Cambridge
— Westminster Election — Contest between Sir Francis Burdett
and Sir Murray Maxwell — London Election — Oatlands —
The Duke of York — Duchess of York — Ampthill — Tixall —
Mr. Luttrell — Lady Granville — Teddesley — Macao —
Burleigh — Middleton — Lady Jersey — The New Parliament
— Tierney and Pitt — Princess Lieven — Madame de Staël on
the French Revolution — Westminster Election — Hobhouse
Defeated — Scarlett’s Maiden Speech — Influence of Party —
Play — The Persian Ambassador at Court — Prince Leopold —
Woburn — Anecdote of the Allies — Death of George III. —
Illness of George IV. — Queen Caroline — Fleury de
Chabaulon — The Cato Street Conspiracy — George IV. at
Ascot — Marchioness of Conyngham — Queen Caroline in
London — Message to Parliament — Debates —
Insubordination in the Guards — Wilberforce’s Motion —
Proceedings against the Queen — ‘Les Liaisons dangereuses’ —
The Queen’s Trial — The Duke of Wellington on the Battle of
Waterloo and the Occupation of Paris.

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1818.
I began to keep a Journal some time ago, and, after continuing it
irregularly, dropped it entirely. I have since felt tempted to resume it,
because, having frequent opportunities of mixing in the society of
celebrated men, some particulars about them might be interesting hereafter.

June 7th, 1818
The dissolution of Parliament is deferred on account of the mistakes
which have been made in passing the Alien Bill. On Friday night the
exultation of the Opposition was very great at what they deemed a victory
LAST YEARS OF THE REGENCY. over the Ministers. It is said that there will be 100
contests, and that Government will lose twenty or thirty members. The
Queen was so ill on Friday evening that they expected she would die. She
had a severe spasm.[1]
[1] [Queen Charlotte, consort of George III., died on the 17th of November of this year, 1818.]

The Duchess of Cambridge[2] has been received in a most flattering
manner here, and it is said that the Duchess of Cumberland is severely
mortified at the contrast between her reception and that of her sister-in-law.
On the Sunday after her arrival the Duke took her to walk in the Park, when
she was so terrified by the pressure of the mob about her that she nearly
fainted away.
[2] [Prince Adolphus Frederick, Duke of Cambridge, seventh son of George III., married on the
7th of May, 1818, Augusta Wilhelmina Louisa, Princess of Hesse, youngest daughter of the
Landgrave of Hesse-Cassel. Ernest, Duke of Cumberland, the King’s fourth son, married on the 29th
of August, 1815, at Strelitz, the Princess Frederica, third daughter of the Duke of Mecklenburg-
Strelitz. This lady had been twice married before, first to Prince Frederic Louis Charles of Prussia,
and secondly to the Prince of Salms-Braunfels. As the Duchess of Cumberland had been divorced
from her last husband, the Queen received her with great coldness; and the position in which she was
placed contrasted strongly with that of the Duchess of Cambridge on her marriage.]

The Regent drives in the Park every day in a tilbury, with his groom
sitting by his side; grave men are shocked at this undignified practice.

Page 24

June 21st, 1818
I dined at Holland House last Thursday. The party consisted of Lord
Lansdowne, Mr. Frere, and Mrs. Tierney and her son. After dinner Mr. Frere
repeated to us a great deal of that part of ‘Whistlecraft’ which is not yet
published.[3] I laughed whenever I could, but as I have never read the first
part, and did not understand the second, I was not so much amused as the
rest of the company.
[3] [The whole poem of ‘Whistlecraft’ has since been republished in the collected works of the
Right Hon. Hookham Frere.]

On Friday I went to the Stud-house, where a great party was assembled
to see the stock and buy them. After visiting the paddocks, Bloomfield[4]
gave a magnificent dinner to A GENERAL ELECTION. the company in a tent near
the house; it was the finest feast I ever saw, but the badness of the weather
spoilt the entertainment.
[4] [Sir Benjamin Bloomfield filled the offices of Marshal and Chief Equerry to the Regent, and
in 1817 he became Receiver-General of the Duchy of Cornwall and Keeper of the Privy Purse to the
Prince. The Stud-house of Hampton Court had been given him as a residence. He was raised to the
peerage in 1825.]

The Queen’s illness was occasioned by information which she received
of the Duchesses of Cumberland and Cambridge having met and embraced.
This meeting took place as if by accident, but really by appointment, in
Kew Gardens; and the Duke of Cambridge himself informed the Queen of
it. She was in such a rage that the spasm was brought on, and she was very
near dying.

June 24th, 1818
The elections are carried on with great violence, and every day we hear
of fresh contests being in agitation. The disgraceful scenes which have
taken place in Westminster excite universal shame and indignation. The
mob seem to have shaken off the feelings and the usual character of
Englishmen, and in the brutal attacks which they have made on Captain
Maxwell have displayed the savage ferocity which marked the mobs of
Paris in the worst times. He has been so much hurt that his life is now in

Page 25

danger. Sir F. Burdett told me this morning that as soon as he was at the
head of the poll he thought he should appear upon the hustings and thank
the people for having raised him thus high. It is supposed that Burdett has
laid out 10,000 ℓ . on this election, though his friends do not acknowledge
that he has spent anything. It is clear that the open houses, cockades, and
bands of music we have seen these three days were not procured for
nothing.
Lord Castlereagh went to the hustings, and voted for Sir Murray
Maxwell; he was hooted, pelted, and got off with some difficulty. His
Lordship’s judgment was not very conspicuous on this occasion; both Sir
Murray’s friends and enemies are of opinion that Lord Castlereagh’s vote
did him a great deal of harm and turned many men against him. The
severest contests will be in Wiltshire, Herefordshire, Devonshire, and
Lincolnshire. The elections are going against Government generally; in
London particularly, as the Ministers lose one seat in the Borough and two
in the City. This last election is the most unexpected of all. Curtis has been
member for twenty-eight years, and has been used to come in very high on
the poll. On this occasion the contest between him and Alderman Thorpe
was severe, but Curtis would have carried it had not Wood and Waithman
coalesced with Thorpe the last day, and thrown their spare votes over to
him; this determined the election in his favour.[5]
[5] [Sir William Curtis was the Ministerial candidate in the City of London; he was thrown out,
and Messrs. Wood, Waithman, Wilson, and Thorpe were returned.]

June 30th, 1818
There was an affray yesterday afternoon in Covent Garden. Sir Murray
Maxwell’s people paraded about a large boat drawn by six horses. Burdett’s
mob attacked and demolished the boat, and this action having raised their
spirits, the contest continued. The consequence was that a large party of
Horse Guards were marched into Covent Garden, and paraded there during
the rest of the night. The people expressed their discontent by cries of ‘This
is what they call freedom of election!’ ‘Burdett for ever!’ &c.[6]
[6] [The Westminster election terminated as follows:—Sir Samuel Romilly, 5,339; Sir Francis
Burdett, 5,238; Sir Murray Maxwell, 4,808; Henry Hunt, 84.]

Page 26

August 4th, 1818
I went to Oatlands[7] on Saturday. There was a very large party—Mr.
and Mrs. Burrell, Lord Alvanley, Berkeley Craven, Cooke, Arthur Upton,
Armstrong, Foley, Lord Lauderdale, Lake, Page, Lord Yarmouth. We played
at whist till four in the morning. On Sunday we amused ourselves with
eating fruit in the garden, and shooting at a mark with pistols, and playing
with the monkeys. I bathed in the cold bath in the grotto, which is as clear
as crystal and as cold as ice. Oatlands is the worst managed establishment
in England; there are a great many servants, and nobody waits on you; a
vast number of horses, and none to ride or drive.
[7] [Oatlands Park, Weybridge, at that time the residence of the Duke of York.]

August 15th, 1818
The parties at Oatlands take place every DUKE AND DUCHESS OF YORK.
Saturday, and the guests go away on Monday morning. These parties begin
as soon as the Duchess leaves London, and last till the October meetings.
During the Egham races there is a large party which remains there from the
Saturday before the races till the Monday se’nnight following; this is called
the Duchess’s party, and she invites the guests. The Duke is only there
himself from Saturday to Monday. There are almost always the same
people, sometimes more, sometimes less. We dine at eight, and sit at table
till eleven. In about a quarter of an hour after we leave the dining-room the
Duke sits down to play at whist, and never stirs from the table as long as
anybody will play with him. When anybody gives any hint of being tired he
will leave off, but if he sees no signs of weariness in others he will never
stop himself. He is equally well amused whether the play is high or low, but
the stake he prefers is fives and ponies.[8] The Duchess generally plays also
at half-crown whist. The Duke always gets up very early, whatever time he
may go to bed. On Sunday morning he goes to church, returns to a breakfast
of tea and cold meat, and afterwards rides or walks till the evening. On
Monday morning he always sets off to London at nine o’clock. He sleeps
equally well in a bed or in a carriage. The Duchess seldom goes to bed, or,
if she does, only for an hour or two; she sleeps dressed upon a couch,
sometimes in one room, sometimes in another. She frequently walks out

Page 27

very late at night, or rather early in the morning, and she always sleeps with
open windows. She dresses and breakfasts at three o’clock, afterwards
walks out with all her dogs, and seldom appears before dinner-time. At
night, when she cannot sleep, she has women to read to her. The Duchess of
York[9] is clever and well-informed; she likes society and dislikes all form
and ceremony, but in the midst of the most familiar intercourse she always
preserves a certain dignity of manner. Those who are in the habit of going
to Oatlands are perfectly at their ease with her, and talk with as much
freedom as they would to any other woman, but always with great respect.
Her mind is not perhaps the most delicate; she shows no dislike to
coarseness of sentiment or language, and I have seen her very much amused
with jokes, stories, and allusions which would shock a very nice person. But
her own conversation is never polluted with anything the least indelicate or
unbecoming. She is very sensible to little attentions, and is annoyed if
anybody appears to keep aloof from her or to shun conversing with her. Her
dogs are her greatest interest and amusement, and she has at least forty of
various kinds. She is delighted when anybody gives her a dog, or a monkey,
or a parrot, of all of which she has a vast number; it is impossible to offend
her or annoy her more than by ill-using any of her dogs, and if she were to
see anybody beat or kick any one of them she would never forgive it. She
has always lived on good terms with the Royal Family, but is intimate with
none of them, and goes as little as possible to Court. The Regent dislikes
her, and she him. With the Princess Charlotte she was latterly very intimate,
spent a great deal of time at Claremont, and felt her death very severely.
The Duchess has no taste for splendour or magnificence, and likes to live
the life of a private individual as much as possible.
[8] [Five-pound points and twenty-five pounds on the rubber.]
[9] [The Duchess of York was born Princess Royal of Prussia; she married the Duke of York in
1791, and died on the 6th of August, 1820.]

The Duke of York is not clever, but he has a justness of understanding,
which enables him to avoid the errors into which most of his brothers have
fallen, and which have made them so contemptible and unpopular. Although
his talents are not rated high, and in public life he has never been
honourably distinguished, the Duke of York is loved and respected. He is
the only one of the Princes who has the feelings of an English gentleman;
his amiable disposition and excellent temper have conciliated for him the

Page 28

esteem and regard of men of all parties, and he has endeared himself to his
friends by the warmth and steadiness of his attachments, and from the
implicit confidence they all have in his truth, straightforwardness, and
sincerity. He delights in the society of men of the world and in a life of
gaiety and pleasure. He is very easily amused, and particularly with DUKE AND
DUCHESS OF YORK. jokes full of coarseness and indelicacy; the men with whom
he lives most are très-polissons, and la polissonnerie is the ton of his
society. But his aides-de-camp and friends, while they do not scruple to say
everything before and to him, always treat him with attention and respect.
The Duke and the Duchess live upon the best terms; their manner to one
another is cordial, and while full of mutual respect and attention, they
follow separately their own occupations and amusements without
interfering with one another. Their friends are common to both, and those
who are most attached to the Duke are equally so to the Duchess. One of
her few foibles is an extreme tenaciousness of her authority at Oatlands;
one way in which this is shown is in the stable, where, although there are
always eight or ten carriage-horses which seldom do any work, it is
impossible ever to procure a horse to ride or drive, because the Duchess
appropriates them all to herself. The other day one of the aides-de-camp
(Cooke) wanted to drive Burrell (who was there) to Hampton Court; he
spoke of this at breakfast, and the Duke hearing it, desired he would take
the curricle and two Spanish horses which had been given to him. The
Duchess, however, chose to call these horses hers and to consider them as
her own. The curricle came to the door, and just as they were going to
mount it a servant came from the Duchess (who had heard of it) and told the
coachman that her Royal Highness knew nothing of it, had not ordered it,
and that the curricle must go home, which it accordingly did.

September 3rd, 1818
I went to Oatlands for the Egham races. The party lasted more than a
week; there was a great number of people, and it was very agreeable.
Erskine was extremely mad; he read me some of his verses, and we had a
dispute upon religious subjects one morning, which he finished by declaring
his entire disbelief in the Mosaic history. We played at whist every night
that the Duke was there, and I always won. The Duchess was unwell most

Page 29

of the time. We showed her a galanterie which pleased her very much. She
produced a picture of herself one evening, which she said she was going to
send to the Duchess of Orleans; we all cried out, said it was bad, and asked
her why she did not let Lawrence paint her picture, and send a miniature
copied from that. She declared she could not afford it; we then said, if she
would sit, we would pay for the picture, which she consented to do, when
all the men present signed a paper, desiring that a picture should be painted
and a print taken from it of her Royal Highness. Lawrence is to be invited
to Oatlands at Christmas to paint the picture. The men who subscribe are
Culling Smith, Alvanley, B. Craven, Worcester, Armstrong, A. Upton,
Rogers, Luttrell, and myself, who were present. The Duchess desired that
Greenwood and Taylor might be added. From Oatlands I went to
Cirencester, where I stayed a week and then returned to Oatlands, expecting
to find the Queen dead and the house empty, but I found the party still there.

Ampthill,[10] September 9th, 1818
I rode down here to-day, Alvanley and Montrond came in a chaise and
four, and were only three hours and three-quarters coming from town.
Luttrell and Rogers are here. The dinner very bad, because the cook is out
of humour. The evening passed off heavily.
[10] [Ampthill Park, at that time the seat of Lord and Lady Holland, who had inherited it from
the Earl of Upper Ossory. On the death of Lady Holland Ampthill was purchased by the Duke of
Bedford, and has since been inhabited by Lord and Lady Wensleydale.]

Ampthill, September 11th, 1818
The Duke and Duchess of San Carlos came yesterday with their two
daughters, one of whom is fourteen and the other twelve or thirteen years
old. The eldest is betrothed to the Count Altimira, a boy of seventeen years
old, son of one of the richest Spanish grandees. He has 70,000ℓ. a year. The
Duke of Medina-Cœli before the French invasion had 215,000ℓ. a year.
Lord Holland was talking to Mr. Fox the day after the debate on the
war (after the Peace of Amiens) about public speakers, and mentioned

Page 30

Sheridan’s speech on the Begums. Fox said, ‘You may rest assured that that
speech was the finest that ever was made in Parliament.’ Lord Holland said,
‘It is very well of you to say so, but I think your speech last night was a
pretty good one.’ Fox said, ‘And that was a devilish fine speech too.’

Teddesley, November 30th, 1818
CHARACTER OF MR. LUTTRELL.I went to Tixall[11] on Tuesday, the 10th of
November. There were Luttrell, Nugent, Montagu, Granville Somerset (who
went away the next day), and afterwards Granville Vernon, Wilmot, and Mr.
Donald. I never remember so agreeable a party—‘le bon goût, les ris,
l’aimable liberté.’ Everybody was pleased because each did what he
pleased, and the tone of the society was gay, simple, and clever.
[11] [Tixall, the seat of Sir Clifford Constable in Staffordshire, was let at this time to Lord and
Lady Granville.]

It is hardly possible to live with a more agreeable man than Luttrell.
He is difficult to please, but when pleased and in good spirits, full of
vivacity. He has a lively imagination, a great deal of instruction, and a very
retentive memory, a memory particularly happy for social purposes, for he
recollects a thousand anecdotes, fine allusions, odd expressions, or happy
remarks, applicable to the generality of topics which fall under discussion.
He is extremely sensitive, easily disconcerted, and resents want of tact in
others, because he is so liable to suffer from any breach of it. A sceptic in
religion, and by no means austere in morals, he views with indulgence all
faults except those which are committed against society, but he looks upon
a bore with unconcealed aversion. He is attached to a few persons whose
talents he respects and whose society he covets, but towards the world in
general he is rather misanthropical, and prides himself upon being free from
the prejudices which he ridicules and despises more or less in everybody
else. Detesting the importance and the superiority which are assumed by
those who have only riches or rank to boast of, he delights in London,
where such men find their proper level, and where genius and ability always
maintain an ascendancy over pomp, vanity, and the adventitious
circumstances of birth or position. Born in mystery,[12] he has always
shrouded himself in a secresy which none of his acquaintance have ever

Page 31

endeavoured to penetrate. He has connections, but they are unknown or
only guessed at. He has occupations, amusements, and interests
unconnected with the society in which he publicly moves. Of these he never
speaks, and no one ever ventures to ask him any questions. Ostensibly he
has no friend. Standing thus alone in the world, he derives but little of his
happiness from others; and he seems to delight in the independence of his
feelings as well as of his situation. He is very witty and says excellent
things, brilliant in general society and pleasant in tête-à-tête. Many men
infinitely less clever converse more agreeably than he does, because he is
too epigrammatic, and has accustomed himself so much to make brilliant
observations that he cannot easily descend to quiet, unlaboured talk. This
only applies to him when in general society; when alone with another
person he talks as agreeably as possible.
[12] [Mr. Luttrell was believed to be a natural son of Lord Carhampton. He had sat in the last
Irish Parliament before the Union, and died about 1855 at a very advanced age.]

Nugent is clever, and in many respects a more amiable companion than
Luttrell, though very inferior to him in ability. He is well-informed,
gentlemanlike, sensible, with good manners, good taste, and has a talent for
music; he is always in good humour, and discriminating without being
difficult.
Lady Granville[13] has a great deal of genial humour, strong feelings,
enthusiasm, delicacy, refinement, good taste, naïveté which just misses
being affectation, and a bonhomie which extends to all around her.
[13] [Henrietta Elizabeth, daughter of William, fifth Duke of Devonshire, married in 1809 to
Lord Granville Leveson Gower, created Viscount Granville in 1815, and Earl Granville in 1833,
during his embassy at the Court of France.]

Nothing could exceed the agreeableness of the life we led at Tixall. We
breakfasted about twelve or later, dined at seven, played at whist and macao
the whole evening, and went to bed at different hours between two and four.
‘Nous faisions la bonne chère, ce qui ajoute beaucoup à l’agrément de la
société. Je ne dis pas ceci par rapport à mes propres goûts; mais parce que
je l’ai observé, et que les philosophes n’y sont pas plus indifférents que les
bons vivants.’

Page 32

When the party at Tixall was over we all removed to PARTY AT TIXALL.
Teddesley. Littleton[14] is good-natured, liberal, hospitable, and anxious to
oblige, but he wants tact, and his table is more copious than refined. The
house is ugly and in an ugly situation; the rooms are small, but not ill
furnished. The dinners were not good, and Luttrell and Nugent were both
very angry at the badness of the fare. We had a brilliant chasse. Luttrell left
Teddesley on Monday, the Granvilles on Sunday, and Nugent and I on
Tuesday; we travelled together to Oxford. He is very agreeable, full of
information, and has a great facility in expressing himself. We parted at
Oxford. I went to Redrice, and came to town on Sunday.
[14] [Edward Littleton, Esq., at that time M.P. for the county of Stafford; raised to the Privy
Council in 1833, when he became Chief Secretary for Ireland, and to the peerage under the title of
Baron Hatherton in 1835.]

Tixall was the most agreeable party I ever was at. We were all pleased
and satisfied; we played at whist, and afterwards at macao. Littleton was the
greatest winner and Lord Granville the loser. I wrote a description of the
macao in verse:—
MACAO
The solemn chime from out the ancient tower[15]
Invites to Macao at th’ accustomed hour.
The welcome summons heard, around the board
Each takes his seat and counts his iv’ry hoard.
’Tis strange to see how in the early rounds
The cautious punters risk their single pounds,
Till, fired with generous rage, they double stake
And offer more than prudent dealers take.
My Lady[16] through her glass with keen delight
Observes the brisk beginnings of the fight;
To some propitious, but to me unkind,
With candour owns the bias of her mind,
And asks of Fortune the severe decree
T’ enrich the happy Skew,[17] to ruin me.
The fickle Goddess heard one-half the prayer,
The rest was melted into empty air;
For while she smiled complacent on the Skew,[18]

Page 33

On me she shed some trifling favours too.
Sure Granville’s luck exceeds all other men’s
Led through a sad variety of tens;[19]
The rest have sometimes eights and nines, but he
Is always followed by ‘the jolly three;’[20]
But the great Skew some guardian sylph protects,
His judgment governs, and his hand directs
When to refrain, when boldly to put in
And catch with happy nine the wayward pin.[21]
The next morning Luttrell came down with a whole paper full of
epigrams (I had been winning at macao, and had turned up five nines in my
deal):—
Why should we wonder if in Greville’s verses
Each thought so brilliant and each line so terse is?
For surely he in poetry must shine
Who is, we know, so favoured by the nine.[22]
THE JOLLY TENS.
Quoth Greville, ‘The commandments are divine;
But as they’re ten, I lay them on the shelf:
O could they change their number and be nine,
I’d keep them all, and keep them to myself!’
Thus we trifled life away.
[15] A clock tower.
[16] Lady Granville.
[17] E. Montagu.
[18] We gave him this nickname.
[19] Tens, ruinous at macao.
[20] Tens.
[21] The middle pin, a large gain.
[22] Nines are the grand desiderata at macao.

Page 34

1819.

January 17th, 1819
I went to Burleigh on the 23rd of December; there was no one there
but Irby. The house disappointed me very much, but it is a very fine
showplace. I went away on the 27th to Middleton; there were the Culling
Smiths, Worcesters, Sir James Mackintosh, Ossulstons, Nugent, &c.; it was
very agreeable, and the house extremely comfortable. Lady Jersey[23] is an
extraordinary woman, and has many good qualities; surrounded as she LADY
JERSEY. is by flatterers and admirers, she is neither proud nor conceited. She
is full of vivacity, spirit, and good nature, but the wide range of her
sympathies and affections proves that she has more general benevolence
than particular sensibility in her character. She performs all the ordinary
duties of life with great correctness, because her heart is naturally good; and
she is, perhaps, from her temperament exposed to fewer temptations than
the generality of her sex. She is deficient in passion and in softness (which
constitute the greatest charm in women), so that she excites more of
admiration than of interest; in conversation she is lively and pleasant,
without being very remarkable, for she has neither wit, nor imagination, nor
humour; her understanding is active rather than strong, and her judgment is
too often warped by prejudice to be sound. She has a retentive memory and
a restless mind, together with a sort of intellectual arrangement, with which
she appears rather to have been gifted by nature than to have derived it from
the cultivation of her reasoning faculties.
[23] [Sarah Sophia, eldest daughter of John, tenth Earl of Westmoreland, and heiress of Robert
Child, Esq., of Osterley Park, her maternal grandfather.]

I went from Middleton to Oatlands. The Duke was not there. We had
the Smiths, Worcesters, Alvanley, Stanhope, Rogers, Luttrell, George
Dawson, Lord Lauderdale, &c. Lord Erskine was ill, and Lord Lauderdale
was taking care of him. The house was very uncomfortable, and the room I
was in small, noisy, and inconvenient.

Page 35

I came to London on Friday last. Parliament having met on the
Thursday, it is very full, and is filling more and more every day. The
Opposition expect to divide 180 on the Bank question; they talk of re-
establishing the dinners which they used to have in Fox’s time.
Rogers is in a nervous state about his poem, and trembles at the
reviewers.[24]
[24] [Rogers’ poem entitled ‘Human Life’ was on the eve of publication. The reviewers treated it
more tenderly than it deserved, as appears below.]

January 28th, 1819
I went to Gorhambury on the 24th to shoot. The Duke of York was
there. We should have had a brilliant chasse, but it rained. We went out at
three and killed 105 pheasants.
There has been some skirmishing in the House of Commons,
particularly the night before last, on Dr. Halloran’s petition, when the
Opposition (Bennet duce) got completely beaten. Many of the new
members have spoken, but Mr. Lawson, a soi-disant wit, and Sir R. Wilson
have failed lamentably. It is odd enough that Wilson made a reply to an
attack which Cobbett had inserted in one of his papers upon him. Cobbett
said that he would make a silly speech in Parliament and destroy himself,
and it is just what he did. The Opposition were very angry with Sir J.
Coffin, who, with the candour of a novice, had made himself informed of
the facts of the petition, and finding they were against his friends, said so in
the House.
Arbuthnot told me some particulars about Tierney. He began by being
a friend of Mr. Pitt, and in one of his speeches on the Southwark or
Colchester election he praised him in opposition to Mr. Fox. This latter
never liked him, and the Regent assured Arbuthnot he had letters of Tierney
in his possession thanking him for having endeavoured to remove Mr. Fox’s
antipathy to him. When Addington came in, Pitt advised him to get Tierney,
as nobody would be so useful to him. He did accordingly, and so Tierney
became a member of the Administration.[25] When Pitt came again into
office a negotiation was opened with him through the medium of Charles

Page 36

Long. He was offered the Chief Secretaryship in Ireland, which he wished
to have, but he made it a condition that he should not be in Parliament. To
this Mr. Pitt would not agree, as he said that he must commit himself with
them entirely or not join them at all; he refused, not choosing to commit
himself, and the negotiations broke off.
[25] [Right Hon. George Tierney, Treasurer of the Navy and P.C. in 1803. President of the Board
of Control in October, 1806, Member of the Mint in 1827.]

January 31st, 1819
I dined with Lady Bathurst yesterday. We talked of the approaching
contests in Parliament, and she said that she felt more apprehensive now
than ever she had done for the safety of the Government, that it was
impossible PRINCESS LIEVEN. for Ministers to stay in if they were defeated, as
they had occasionally been in the last Parliament, and that if they were
defeated she should attribute it all to Vansittart, who is a millstone about
their necks. I asked why they did not get rid of him, and she said that it was
from good-nature; they had scruples about telling him he was inefficient
and must resign. She said that Canning’s conduct had been so good towards
them, they were very anxious to put him in some more considerable office.

February 3rd, 1819
I went with Bouverie to Newmarket on Monday to look at the horses.
On Wednesday I came to town and went on to Oatlands. Madame de Lieven
was there. This woman is excessively clever, and when she chooses
brilliantly agreeable. She is beyond all people fastidious. She is equally
conscious of her own superiority and the inferiority of other people, and the
contempt she has for the understandings of the generality of her
acquaintance has made her indifferent to please and incapable of taking any
delight in general society. Her manners are very dignified and graceful, and
she is extremely accomplished. She sometimes endeavours to assume
popular and gracious manners, but she does this languidly and awkwardly,
because it is done with an effort. She carries ennui to such a pitch that even

Page 37

in the society of her most intimate friends she frequently owns that she is
bored to death. She writes memoirs, or rather a journal, of all that falls
under her observation. She is so clever, has so much imagination and
penetration, that they must be very entertaining. She writes as well as talks
with extraordinary ease and gracefulness, and both her letters and her
conversation are full of point; yet she is not liked, and has made hardly any
friends. Her manners are stately and reserved, and so little bonhomie
penetrates through her dignity that few feel sufficiently attracted to induce
them to try and thaw the ice in which she always seems bound.[26]
[26] [A very imperfect character of Princess Lieven, with whom Mr. Greville was at this time
but slightly acquainted. But in after years he became one of her most intimate and confidential
friends, and she frequently reappears in the course of these memoirs.]

February 5th, 1819
I have finished Madame de Staël’s ‘Considérations sur la Révolution
Française.’ It is the best of her works, extremely eloquent, containing the
soundest political opinions conveyed in a bold and eloquent style. It is
perhaps too philosophical and not sufficiently relieved by anecdotes and
historical illustrations. Her defence of her father is written with much
enthusiasm and great plausibility, but the judgment of the world concerning
Necker is formed, and it is too late to alter it. The effect of her eloquence is
rather weakened by the recollection of her conduct to him, for she lived
with him as little as possible, because she could not bear the ennui of
Coppet.[27]
[27] [In the latter years of Madame de Staël’s life Coppet became one of the most brilliant social
resorts in Europe, for she attracted there the Schlegels, B. Constant, Bonstetten, Sismondi, Byron,
and a host of other celebrities. Towards her father Madame de Staël expressed the most passionate
regard.]

February 9th, 1819
The Opposition are in a state of the highest exultation on account of
the division in the House of Commons last night on Brougham’s being
added to the Bank Committee. The numbers were 173 to 135. They triumph

Page 38

particularly in this strong minority because the attack upon Brougham in the
‘Quarterly Review’ was deemed so successful by the Ministerial party that
they thought he would not be able to lift up his head again. The review is
extremely well done, as all allow. It is supposed to be written by Dr. Ireland
[it was by Dr. Monk[28]], and that Canning supplied the jokes, but
Arbuthnot assured me he had no hand in it.
[28] [Dr. Monk, not Dr. Ireland, was the author of the article. Monk became Bishop of
Gloucester in 1830. This passage relates to the celebrated article on the Report of Mr. Brougham’s
Committee on the Education of the People which appeared in the ‘Quarterly Review’ of December
1818. The article was a violent one, but it is amusing to see the effects attributed to it at the time.
Some controversy has since taken place as to the share Canning had in it. I have myself seen the
letters from Gifford (editor of the ‘Review’) to Dr. Monk, in which he speaks of the additions which
have been made to the article; and there is the strongest internal evidence that these purpurei panni
were added by Canning. The subject is discussed in the ‘Edinburgh Review’ for July 1858.]

February 10th, 1819
Wilberforce made a speech last night which reminded one of the better
days of the House of WESTMINSTER ELECTION. Commons. He presented a petition
from the Quakers against the Criminal Code, and introduced a compliment
to Romilly. Castlereagh was in a minority in the Committee concerning the
equerries of the Windsor establishment; he wished to keep two more than
Tierney proposed; the latter had eight to six in the Committee.[29]
[29] [In consequence of the death of Queen Charlotte in the preceding month of November, the
Government visited the Windsor establishment. The Duke of York was appointed custos personæ of
the King, and received in that capacity 10,000ℓ. a year, which had previously been allowed to the
Queen. A debate took place on this subject on the 25th of February, which is referred to by Mr.
Greville under that date.]

February 14th, 1819
George Lamb has been proposed in opposition to Hobhouse.[30] The
latter drew this opposition upon himself by his speech, and still more by the
reports of his Committee, in which they abused the Whigs in unmeasured
terms. Lambton went to Hobhouse and asked him if he would disavow the
abuse of Lord Grey, which his Committee had inserted in the document
they printed; he refused, on which the opposition was determined upon and

Page 39

begun. McDonald proposed Lamb, but they would not hear him; Evans
seconded him. G. Jones made a very good speech in proposing Cartwright.
Burdett and Kinnaird both spoke with moderation in proposing Hobhouse.
It is generally supposed that Lamb will win.
[30] [The death of Sir Samuel Romilly in November 1818 caused a vacancy in the
representation of Westminster, and another election took place upon the meeting of Parliament. The
numbers were: Hon. George Lamb, 4,465; John Cam Hobhouse, 3,861; Major Cartwright, 38.]

Rogers’ poem is disliked; the cry is all against it; some of the lines are
pretty, but it is not perspicuous enough, and is deficient in novelty and
force.

February 18th, 1819
Yesterday Lamb was only seven behind Hobhouse on the poll;
everybody thinks he is sure to win, even if Burdett should come forward
with money. The day before there was great uproar and much abuse on the
hustings. Burdett made a shameful speech full of blasphemy and
Jacobinism, but he seems to have lost his popularity in a great measure even
with the blackguards of Westminster. Hobhouse yesterday was long and
dull; he did not speak like a clever man, and if the people would have heard
Lamb, and he has any dexterity in reply, he must have crushed him—it was
so answerable a speech.
I went to the Berrys[31] in the evening, where the blues and the wits
were assembled; as Sidney Smith said, ‘the conversation raged,’ but there
was nothing remarkably entertaining.
[31] [Miss Berry’s well-known salon, No. 8 Curzon Street, which was for more than a half a
century the resort of the best company in London.]

February 25th, 1819
The debate on the 10,000ℓ. to the Duke of York on Monday produced
four very good speeches—Peel and the Solicitor-General on one part, and
Tierney and Scarlett[32] on the other. This latter spoke for the first time, and

Page 40

in reply to the two former. The Opposition came to Brookes’ full of
admiration of his speech, which is said to be the best first speech that ever
was made in the House of Commons. I, who hear all parties and care for
none, have been amused with the different accounts of the debate; one man
says Peel’s speech was the best of the night and the finest that has been
made in the House for a length of time; another prefers the Solicitor-
General’s; then on the other side it is said that Tierney was excellent, Mr.
Scarlett beyond all praise. The friends of Government allow great merit to
the two latter speakers, but declare that Peel was unanswerable, besides
having been beautifully eloquent, and that Scarlett’s speech was a fallacy
from beginning to end. Again I am told Peel was not good; his was a speech
for effect, evidently prepared, showy, but not argumentative; Scarlett
triumphantly refuted all his reasoning. Thus it is that a fair judgment is
never formed upon any question; the spirit of party influences every man’s
opinions. It is not extraordinary that each individual of a party connected by
general similarity of opinion should adhere to the great body, even in cases
where he may not happen to agree with them, and excellent reasons may be
adduced for his sacrificing his own PARTY SPIRIT. view for the great object of
unanimity; but it is very improbable that on a particular question,
unconnected with any general system, where arguments are adduced from
opposite sides, and submitted to the enlightened judgment of an assembly,
the same arguments which are looked upon as satisfactory and
unanswerable by one set of men should be deemed without exception
utterly fallacious by another. If any proof were requisite of the mighty
influence of party spirit, it would be found in a still stronger light in the
State trials in the House of Lords. I have in my mind the trial of Lord
Melville; when each Peer had to deliver his judicial opinion upon the
evidence adduced in a matter so solemn, and in the discharge of a duty so
sacred, it might be imagined that all party feelings would be laid aside, and
that a mature judgment and an enlightened conscience would alone have
regulated the conduct of every individual. Yet either by an extraordinary
accident or by the influence of party spirit we beheld all the Peers on the
Ministerial side of the House declaring Lord Melville innocent, and all
those of the Opposition pronouncing him guilty.
[32] [Sir James Scarlett, afterwards Lord Abinger and Lord Chief Baron. It is remarkable that
his first speech in the House of Commons was delivered on the Whig side of the House. He
afterwards became a decided Tory.]

Page 41

March 5th, 1819
George Lamb was to have been chaired on the day he was elected, but
the mob was outrageous and would not suffer it. They broke into his
committee room, and he and McDonald were forced to creep out of a two
pair of stairs window into the churchyard. His partisans, who assembled on
horseback, were attacked and pelted, and forced to retreat after receiving
many hard knocks. In the evening the mob paraded the town, and broke the
windows of Lord Castlereagh’s and Lord Sefton’s houses.
The other night Sir James Mackintosh[33] made a splendid speech on
the Criminal Laws; it was temperate and eloquent, and excited universal
admiration. The Ministerial party spoke as highly of it as the Opposition
themselves. Last night Canning moved the thanks to Lord Hastings, and
they say it was the finest speech he ever made, in the best taste, the clearest
narrative, and the most beautiful language.
[33] [Sir James Mackintosh’s motion for the appointment of a Committee on Capital
Punishments was carried against the Government on the 2nd of March by 148 to 128.]

June 12th, 1819
I have been at Oatlands for the Ascot party. On the course I did
nothing. Ever since the Derby ill fortune has pursued me, and I cannot win
anywhere. Play is a detestable occupation; it absorbs all our thoughts and
renders us unfit for everything else in life. It is hurtful to the mind and
destroys the better feelings; it incapacitates us for study and application of
every sort; it makes us thoughtful and nervous; and our cheerfulness
depends upon the uncertain event of our nightly occupation. How anyone
can play who is not in want of money I cannot comprehend; surely his mind
must be strangely framed who requires the stimulus of gambling to heighten
his pleasures. Some indeed may have become attached to gaming from
habit, and may not wish to throw off the habit from the difficulty of finding
fresh employment for the mind at an advanced period of life. Some may be
unfitted by nature or taste for society, and for such gaming may have a
powerful attraction. The mind is excited; at the gaming-table all men are
equal; no superiority of birth, accomplishments, or ability avail here; great

Page 42

noblemen, merchants, orators, jockies, statesmen, and idlers are thrown
together in levelling confusion; the only pre-eminence is that of success, the
only superiority that of temper. But why does a man play who is blessed
with fortune, endowed with understanding, and adorned with
accomplishments which might ensure his success in any pursuit which taste
or fancy might incite him to follow? It is contrary to reason, but we see
such instances every day. The passion of play is not artificial; it must have
existed in certain minds from the beginning; at least some must have been
so constituted that they yield at once to the attraction, and enter with avidity
into a pursuit in which other men can never take the least interest.

June 14th, 1819
The other night in the House of Commons on the Foreign Enlistment
Bill Sir James Mackintosh made a brilliant speech; all parties agree in
commending it. Canning answered him, but not successfully. The Duke of
Wellington PERSIAN AMBASSADOR AND THE REGENT. told me on Friday that there was
a good debate in the House of Lords the night before on the Catholic
question, but he thought his side had the worst of it; he acknowledged that
Lord Grey’s speech had done much to shake his opinion, and that he had
not conceived that his propositions would have been framed in so
unobjectionable a manner.[34]
[34] [On the 10th of June Earl Grey submitted to the House of Lords a Bill to relieve Roman
Catholics from taking the declaratory oaths against Transubstantiation and the Invocation of Saints.
On this occasion, for the first time, Lord Grenville supported the Catholic claims. But the Bill was
thrown out by 141 to 92.]

June 25th, 1819
The Persian Ambassador has had a quarrel with the Court. He wanted
to have precedence over all other Ambassadors, and because this was not
allowed he was affronted and would not go to Court. This mark of
disrespect was resented, and it was signified to him that his presence would
be dispensed with at Carlton House, and that the Ministers could no longer
receive him at their houses. On Sunday last the Regent went to Lady

Page 43

Salisbury’s, where he met the Persian, who, finding he had given offence,
had made a sort of apology, and said that illness had prevented him from
going to Court. The Regent came up to him and said, ‘Well, my good
friend, how are you? I hope you are better?’ He said, ‘Oh, sir, I am very
well, but I am very sorry I offended your Royal Highness by not going to
Court. Now, sir, my Sovereign he tell me to go first, and your Congress,
about which I know nothing, say I must go last; now this very bad for me
(pointing to his head) when I go back to Persia.’ The Regent said, ‘Well, my
good friend, never mind it now; it does not signify.’ He answered, ‘Oh yes,
sir; but your Royal Highness still angry with me, and you have not asked
me to your party to-morrow night.’ The Regent laughed and said, ‘I was
only going to have a few children to dance, but if you like to come I shall
be very happy to see you.’ Accordingly he went to Carlton House, and they
are very good friends again.

August 11th, 1819
The Vice-Chancellor was going to Italy, but his journey is stopped, as
he says, because the Prince Regent has desired him to stay in England in
consequence of the approaching return of the Princess of Wales.

August 30th, 1819
I am just returned from Oatlands; we had an immense party, the most
numerous ever known there. The Duchess wished it to have been
prolonged, but there were no funds. The distress they are in is
inconceivable. When the Duchess came down there was no water in the
house. She asked the reason, and was informed that the water came by pipes
from St. George’s Hill, which were stopped up with sand; and as the
workmen were never paid, they would not clear them out. She ordered the
pipes to be cleared and the bills brought to her, which was done. On
Thursday there was a great distress, as the steward had no money to pay the
tradespeople, and the Duke was prevailed on with great difficulty to
produce a small sum for the purpose. The house is nearly in ruins.

Page 44

December 24th, 1819
The Duke of Kent gave the name of Alexandrina to his daughter[35] in
compliment to the Emperor of Russia. She was to have had the name of
Georgiana, but the Duke insisted upon Alexandrina being her first name.
The Regent sent for Lieven and made him a great many compliments (en le
persiflant) on the Emperor’s being godfather, but informed him that the
name of Georgiana could be second to no other in this country, and
therefore she could not bear it at all.
[35] [The Princess, afterwards Queen, Victoria, born 24th of May, 1819.]

The frost is intense. The town is empty. I returned from Whersted last
Wednesday se’nnight, and went to Oatlands on Thursday; there was nearly
the same party. Prince Leopold came and dined there on Saturday. He is
very dull and heavy in his manner, and seems overcome with the weight of
his dignity. This Prince will not succeed here; everybody is civil to him
from the interest he excited at the time of the Princess’s death—an interest
which has not yet subsided. There seems to be no harm in him, but
everybody contrasts his manners with those of the Duke of York, and the
comparison is not to his advantage. ILLNESS OF GEORGE IV. The Duchess likes the
society of men of wit and letters; more, I think, from the variety of having
them around her than from any pleasure she takes in their conversation.
Lord Alvanley is the man in whom she takes the greatest delight.

Page 45

1820.

London, January 20th, 1820
I went last Sunday se’nnight to Woburn. The Duke of York, Duke of
Wellington, Lievens, Jerseys, Worcesters, Tavistocks, Mr. Russell, Lady
Sandwich, Alvanley, C. Smith, Huntleys, Frederick Ponsonby, Lauderdale,
and others were there. The house, place, establishment, and manner of
living are magnificent. The chasse was brilliant; in five days we killed 835
pheasants, 645 hares, 59 rabbits, 10 partridges, and 5 woodcocks. The
Duchess was very civil and the party very gay. I won at whist, and liked it
very much.

January 22nd, 1820
Just before the advance of the allied army on Paris a council of war
was held, when it was unanimously resolved to retreat. The Emperor of
Russia entered the room, and said he had reasons for advancing, and
ordered the advance; the generals remonstrated, but the Emperor was
determined. Woronzoff told Sydenham that that day a courier arrived at his
outposts with a letter for the Emperor in the handwriting of Talleyrand. This
was told me by Frederick Ponsonby.

February 4th, 1820
I returned to Woburn on Sunday. We shot the whole week and killed an
immense quantity of game; the last two days we killed 245 and 296
pheasants, 822 and 431 head. On Sunday last arrived the news of the King’s
death.[36] The new King has been desperately ill. He had a bad cold at
Brighton, for which he lost eighty ounces of blood; yet he afterwards had a
severe oppression, amounting almost to suffocation, on his chest. Halford

Page 46

was gone to Windsor, and left orders with Knighton not to bleed him again
till his return. Knighton was afraid to bleed him. REIGN OF GEORGE IV.
Bloomfield sent for Tierney,[37] who took upon himself to take fifty ounces
from him. This gave him relief; he continued, however, dangerously ill, and
on Wednesday he lost twenty ounces more. Yesterday afternoon he was
materially better for the first time. Tierney certainly saved his life, for he
must have died if he had not been blooded. Brougham sent a courier to the
Queen immediately after the late King’s death, and gave notice at Carlton
House that he had applied for a passport for a courier to her Majesty the
Queen.
[36] [King George III. died on the 20th of January, 1820.]
[37] [Sir Matthew Tierney, one of His Majesty’s physicians.]

The King has given to Lady Bloomfield the Rangership of Hampton
Court Park. He wished to give it to both of them with the survivorship, but
Lord Liverpool submitted to him that the House of Commons had
pronounced so strongly their dislike to reversionary grants that it would be
unadvisable, and it was accordingly given to Lady B. only.

February 14th, 1820
The Cabinet sat till past two o’clock this morning. The King refused
several times to order the Queen to be prayed for in the alteration which
was made in the Liturgy. The Ministers wished him to suffer it to be done,
but he peremptorily refused, and said nothing should induce him to consent,
whoever might ask him. Lord Harrowby told me this last night.
I think Fleury’s book[38] almost the most interesting memoir I ever
read; it is excessively well written, and his partiality to Bonaparte has not
blinded him to the errors he committed. This book was wanted to bring
under the same view the immediate causes of his return to France and the
situation in which he found himself when seated on the throne. This was
essentially different from that in which he had been before his abdication;
so much so that I do not believe, if he had concluded a peace with the
Allies, he could have remained upon the throne. Not only his civil power
was NAPOLEON IN THE HUNDRED DAYS. reduced within very narrow limits, but his

Page 47

military authority was no longer the same; men seemed to have lost that
reverential submissiveness which caused all his orders to be so blindly and
implicitly obeyed. During the height of his power none of his generals
would have dared to neglect or oppose his orders as Ney did at the battles of
the 16th of June. It is impossible now to determine what might have been
the political result in France of the success of Bonaparte’s arms had he
gained the battle of Waterloo. He would probably have made peace with the
Allies. Had he returned to Paris triumphant, he might have dissolved the
Chambers and re-established the old Imperial Government. In such a
measure he must have depended upon his army for success. But a spirit of
liberty had sprung up in France during his absence, which seemed to be the
more vigorous from having been so long repressed. The nation, and even
the army, appear to have imbibed the principles of freedom; and if upon this
occasion Bonaparte was placed on the throne by the force of opinion, he
could not have restored the ancient despotism without exciting universal
dissatisfaction. Men seem formerly to have been awed by a conviction of
his infallibility, and did not suffer themselves to reason upon the principles
of action of a man who dazzled their imaginations by the magnificence of
his exploits and the grandeur of his system.
[38] [M. Fleury de Chabaulon was a young auditeur at the Conseil d’État who had joined
Napoleon at Elba, and afterwards returned with him to France, when he was attached to the Imperial
Cabinet during the Hundred Days. His memoir of that period is here referred to.]

February 20th, 1820
The Ministers had resigned last week because the King would not hear
reason on the subject of the Princess. It is said that he treated Lord
Liverpool very coarsely, and ordered him out of the room. The King, they
say, asked him ‘if he knew to whom he was speaking.’ He replied, ‘Sir, I
know that I am speaking to my Sovereign, and I believe I am addressing
him as it becomes a loyal subject to do.’ To the Chancellor he said, ‘My
Lord, I know your conscience always interferes except where your interest
is concerned.’ The King afterwards sent for Lord Liverpool, who refused at
first to go; but afterwards, on the message being reiterated, he went, and the
King said, ‘We have both been too hasty.’ This is probably all false, but it is
very true that they offered to resign.

Page 48

February 24th, 1820
The plot[39] which has been detected had for its object the destruction
of the Cabinet Ministers, and the chief actor in the conspiracy was Arthur
Thistlewood. I was at Lady Harrowby’s last night, and about half-past one
o’clock Lord Harrowby came in and told us the following particulars:—A
plot has been in agitation for some time past, of the existence of which, the
names and numbers of the men concerned, and of all particulars concerning
their plans, Government has been perfectly well informed. The conspirators
had intended to execute their design about last Christmas at a Cabinet
dinner at Lord Westmoreland’s, but for some reason they were unable to do
so and deferred it. At length Government received information that they
were to assemble to the number of from twenty to thirty at a house in Cato
Street, Edgware Road, and that they had resolved to execute their purpose
last night, when the Cabinet would be at dinner at Lord Harrowby’s. Dinner
was ordered as usual. Men had been observed watching the house, both in
front and rear, during the whole afternoon. It was believed that nine o’clock
was the hour fixed upon for the assault to be made. The Ministers who were
expected at dinner remained at Fife House, and at eight o’clock Mr. Birnie
with twelve constables was despatched to Cato Street to apprehend the
conspirators. Thirty-five foot guards were ordered to support the police
force. The constables arrived upon the spot a few moments before the
soldiers, and suspecting that the conspirators had received intimation of the
discovery of their plot, and were in consequence preparing to escape, they
did not wait for the soldiers, but went immediately to the house. A man
armed with a musket was standing sentry, whom they secured. They then
ascended a narrow staircase which led to the room in which the gang were
assembled, and burst the door open. The first man who entered was shot in
the head, but THE CATO STREET CONSPIRACY. was only wounded; he who followed
was stabbed by Thistlewood and killed. The conspirators then with their
swords put out the lights and attempted to escape. By this time the soldiers
had arrived. Nine men were taken prisoners; Thistlewood and the rest
escaped.
[39] [The Cato Street Conspiracy.]

Page 49

March 1st, 1820
Thistlewood was taken the morning after the affair in Cato Street. It
was the intention of these men to have fired a rocket from Lord Harrowby’s
house as soon as they had completed their work of destruction; this was to
have been the signal for the rising of their friends. An oil shop was to have
been set on fire to increase the confusion and collect a mob; then the Bank
was to have been attacked and the gates of Newgate thrown open. The
heads of the Ministers were to have been cut off and put in a sack which
was prepared for that purpose. These are great projects, but it does not
appear they were ever in force sufficient to put them in execution, and the
mob (even if the mob had espoused their cause, which seems doubtful),
though very dangerous in creating confusion and making havoc, are quite
inefficient for a regular operation.

June 4th, 1820
I went to Oatlands on Tuesday. The Duchess continues very ill; she is
not expected to recover. The King was at Ascot every day; he generally rode
on the course, and the ladies came in carriages. One day they all rode. He
was always cheered by the mob as he went away. One day only a man in the
crowd called out, ‘Where’s the Queen?’ The Duke of Dorset was at the
Cottage, and says it was exceedingly agreeable. They kept very early hours.
The King always breakfasted with them, and Lady Conyngham looked
remarkably well in the morning, her complexion being so fine. On Friday
she said she was bored with the races and should not go; he accordingly
would not go either, and sent word to say he should not be there. They stay
there till to-morrow. In the meantime the Queen is coming to England, and
Brougham is gone to meet her. Nobody knows what advice he intends to
give her, but everybody believes that it is his intention she should come. It
was supposed that Lady Conyngham’s family (her son and brother) had set
their faces against her connection with the King; but Lord Mount Charles
was at the Cottage, and Denison was at the levee and very well received.

June 7th, 1820

Page 50

The Queen arrived in London yesterday at seven o’clock. I rode as far
as Greenwich to meet her. The road was thronged with an immense
multitude the whole way from Westminster Bridge to Greenwich. Carriages,
carts, and horsemen followed, preceded, and surrounded her coach the
whole way. She was everywhere received with the greatest enthusiasm.
Women waved pocket handkerchiefs, and men shouted wherever she
passed. She travelled in an open landau, Alderman Wood sitting by her side
and Lady Ann Hamilton and another woman opposite. Everybody was
disgusted at the vulgarity of Wood in sitting in the place of honour, while
the Duke of Hamilton’s sister was sitting backwards in the carriage. The
Queen looked exactly as she did before she left England, and seemed
neither dispirited nor dismayed. As she passed by White’s she bowed and
smiled to the men who were in the window. The crowd was not great in the
streets through which she passed. Probably people had ceased to expect her,
as it was so much later than the hour designated for her arrival. It is
impossible to conceive the sensation created by this event. Nobody either
blames or approves of her sudden return, but all ask, ‘What will be done
next? How is it to end?’ In the House of Commons there was little said; but
the few words which fell from Creevy, Bennett, or Denman seem to
threaten most stormy debates whenever the subject is discussed. The King
in the meantime is in excellent spirits, and the Ministers affect the greatest
unconcern and talk of the time it will take to pass the Bills to ‘settle her
business.’ ‘Her business,’ as they call it, will in all probability raise such a
tempest as they will find it beyond their powers to appease; and for all his
Majesty’s unconcern the day of her arrival in England may be such an
anniversary to him as he will have no cause to celebrate with much
rejoicing.[40]
[40] [On the day that the Queen landed at Dover a royal message was sent down to Parliament,
by which the King commended to the Lords an enquiry into the conduct of the Queen. In the House
of Commons there was some vehement speaking; and on the following day, before Lord Castlereagh
moved the address in answer to the message, Mr. Brougham read to the House a message from the
Queen, declaring that her return to England was occasioned by the necessity her enemies had laid
upon her of defending her character.]

June 9th, 1820

Page 51

THE QUEEN’S RETURN.Brougham’s speech on Wednesday is said by his
friends to have been one of the best that was ever made, and I think all
agree that it was good and effective. The House of Commons is evidently
anxious to get rid of the question if possible, for the moment Wilberforce
expressed a wish to adjourn the county members rose one after another and
so strongly concurred in that wish that Castlereagh was obliged to consent.
The mob have been breaking windows in all parts of the town and pelting
those who would not take off their hats as they passed Wood’s door. Last
night Lord Exmouth’s house was assaulted and his windows broken, when
he rushed out armed with sword and pistol and drove away the mob.
Frederick Ponsonby saw him. Great sums of money have been won and lost
on the Queen’s return, for there was much betting at the clubs. The
alderman showed a specimen of his taste as he came into London; when the
Queen’s coach passed Carlton House he stood up and gave three cheers.
It is odd enough Lady Hertford’s windows have been broken to pieces
and the frames driven in, while no assault has been made on Lady
Conyngham’s. Somebody asked Lady Hertford ‘if she had been aware of
the King’s admiration for Lady Conyngham,’ and ‘whether he had ever
talked to her about Lady C.’ She replied that ‘intimately as she had known
the King, and openly as he had always talked to her upon every subject, he
had never ventured to speak to her upon that of his mistresses.’

June 16th, 1820
The speech which Canning made on the occasion of the King’s
message has been violently attacked by all parties, and is said to have given
as great dissatisfaction to the Queen as to the King. It is not easy to discover
what the Queen could have objected to in the speech, for it was highly
favourable and flattering to her. It was generally supposed last Sunday that
he would resign in the course of the week, and bets were laid that he would
not be in office next Sunday. On Wednesday he had an audience of the King
at the levee, which lasted fifty-two minutes by Yarmouth’s watch; nobody
knows what passed between them. Lord Fitzwilliam and Lord Sefton have
refused to act as negotiators for the Queen.

Page 52

There was some indiscipline manifested in a battalion of the 3rd
Guards the day before yesterday; they were dissatisfied at the severity of
their duty and at some allowances that had been taken from them, and on
coming off guard they refused to give up their ball cartridges. They were
ordered off to Plymouth, and marched at four yesterday morning. Many
people went from the ball at Devonshire House to see them march away.
Plymouth was afterwards changed for Portsmouth in consequence of their
good behaviour on the route. Worcester[41] met many of them drunk at
Brentford, crying out, ‘God save Queen Caroline!’ There was some
disturbance last night in consequence of the mob assembling round the
King’s mews, where the rest of the battalion that had marched to
Portsmouth still remained.
[41] [The Marquis of Worcester, afterwards seventh Duke of Beaufort]

June 23rd, 1820
I never remember to have seen the public curiosity so excited as on
Wilberforce’s motion last night.[42] Nearly 520 members voted in the
House, and some went away; as many people as could gain admission
attended to hear the debate. The speaking on the Opposition side was
excellent, but as everybody differs in opinion with regard to the
comparative merit of the speakers, it is impossible for one who was not
present to form a correct judgment on the subject. The best speeches were
Brougham’s, Denman’s, Burdett’s, and Canning’s. Denman’s speech was
admirable and, all agree, most judicious and effective for his client.
Burdett’s was extremely clever, particularly the first part of SECRET COMMITTEE
ON THE QUEEN. it. In the meantime it is doubtful whether anything is gained by
the resolution carried last night. Public opinion seems very equally divided
as to the probability of the Queen agreeing to the expressed or implied wish
of the House of Commons, and even if she refuses to consent to the
omission of her name in the Liturgy it seems doubtful whether the green
bag will ever be opened, so strong is the repugnance of the House of
Commons to enter upon such an investigation. It is this feeling in the House
which emboldens the Queen to hold out with the firmness and constancy
she has hitherto displayed. The House of Lords cuts a most ridiculous

Page 53

figure, having precipitately agreed to go into the Committee. They have
since been obliged to put off the investigation by repeated adjournments, in
order to see what steps the House of Commons will take. Lord Grey made
an indignant speech, last night on this very subject; they say Lord Liverpool
spoke remarkably well in reply.
[42] [Mr. Wilberforce moved an address to the Queen to stop the investigation, by entreating her
Majesty, under the assurance of the protection of her honour by the Commons, to yield the point of
the insertion of her name in the Liturgy. This proposal the Queen courteously declined.]

June 25th, 1820
The Queen’s refusal to comply with the desire of the House of
Commons keeps conjecture afloat and divides opinions as to the opening of
the bag. The Opposition call her answer a very good one; those of the other
party I have seen think it too long, and not neatly and clearly worded.
Brougham declined advising her as to her answer; he told her she must be
guided by her own feelings, and was herself the only person capable of
judging what she had best do. The discussion of the Queen’s business is
now become an intolerable nuisance in society; no other subject is ever
talked of. It is an incessant matter of argument and dispute what will be
done and what ought to be done. All people express themselves tired of the
subject, yet none talk or think of any other. It is a great evil when a single
subject of interest takes possession of society; conversation loses all its
lightness and variety, and every drawing-room is converted into an arena of
political disputation. People even go to talk about it from habit long after
the interest it excited has ceased.

June 27th, 1820
The mob was very abusive to the member who carried up the
resolution to the Queen, and called Wilberforce ‘Dr. Cantwell.’ The Queen
demanded to be heard by counsel at the bar of the House of Lords. Contrary
to order and contrary to expectation, the counsel were admitted, when
Brougham made a very powerful speech. Denman began exceedingly well;
Lord Holland said his first three or four sentences were the best thing he

Page 54

ever heard; si sic omnia, he would have made the finest speech possible; but
on the whole he was inferior to Brougham. If the House had refused to hear
her counsel, it is said that she would have gone down to-day to the House of
Lords and have demanded to be heard in person. As usual Brougham’s
speech is said by many of his political adversaries to have been weak in
argument. Many, however, do him the justice to acknowledge that it was a
very powerful appeal for his client.

June 28th, 1820
The debate last night in the House of Lords was excellent. Lord Grey
made a powerful speech, very much against the Queen, a speech for office.
The manager announced at Drury Lane that the Queen would go to the play
to-night. Brougham knew nothing of this; she never told him. Mrs.
Brougham told me so last night, and that he was quite worn out with the
business.[43]
[43] [The report of the Secret Committee of the Lords was made on the 4th of July. It declared
that the evidence against the Queen was such as to demand a solemn enquiry. The trial, or rather
investigation, began on the 17th of August. The defence was opened on the 3rd of October, and the
Bill was abandoned on the 6th of November.]

July 6th, 1820
Since the report of the Secret Committee public opinion is entirely
changed as to the result of the proceedings against the Queen. Everybody
thinks the charges will be proved and that the King will be divorced. It is
impossible to discover what effect the report may have in the country; it is
certain hitherto that all ranks of men have been decidedly favourable to the
Queen, and disbelieve the charges against her. The military in London have
shown alarming symptoms of dissatisfaction, so much so that it seems
doubtful how far the Guards can be counted upon in case of any disturbance
arising out of this subject. Luttrell says that ‘the extinguisher is taking fire.’

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July 8th, 1820
I was in the House of Lords the night before last to hear
THE QUEEN’S TRIAL
Brougham and Denman speak at the bar. Brougham’s speech was
uncommonly clever, very insolent, and parts of it very eloquent. A very
amusing episode was furnished by the Bishop of Exeter, who moved that
the counsel should withdraw, and then asked the House whether they were
not out of order. Lord Holland cut him up in the most beautiful style, and
excited universal laughter. Nobody came to the assistance of the Bishop,
and the counsel were called in again and resumed. Brougham’s speech is
reported in the ‘Morning Chronicle’ of yesterday word for word.

July 14th, 1820
I have been at Newmarket, where I had the first fortunate turn this
year. The conversation about the Queen begins to subside; everybody seems
to agree that it is a great injustice not to allow her lists of the witnesses; the
excuse that it is not usual is bad, for the proceedings are anomalous
altogether, and it is absurd to attempt to adhere to precedent; here there are
no precedents and no analogies to guide to a decision. London is drawing to
a close, but in August it will be very full, as all the Peers must be here. They
say the trial will last six months.
Luttrell’s poem[44] has succeeded. The approbation it receives is
general but qualified; in fact, it was difficult to make such a sketch of life
and manners sufficiently piquant without the infusion of a little satire, and
his fear of giving offence has induced him to be so good-natured that he is
occasionally rather insipid. ‘Il y a des tracasseries de société.’ I cannot
record them, though perhaps years hence, when I may look over what I now
write, I might be amused with stories of long-forgotten jealousies and
various interests extinguished by the lapse of time, or perhaps silenced in
the grave; still it would be melancholy to retrace the days of my youth and
to bring before my imagination the blooming faces and the gaiety and
brilliancy of those who once shone the meteors of society, but who would
then be so changed in form and mind, and with myself rapidly descending
to our last home.

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[44] [Mr. Luttrell’s ‘Advice to Julia,’ published in 1820.]

Read ‘Les Liaisons dangereuses.’ Much has been said about the
dangerous tendency of certain books, and probably this would be
considered as one pregnant with mischief. I consider this a mere jargon, and
although I would never recommend this book (because it is so grossly
indecent) I should never apprehend the smallest danger to the most
inexperienced mind or the warmest passions from its immoral tendency.
The principle upon which books of this description are considered
pernicious is the notion that they represent vice in such glowing and
attractive colours as to make us lose sight of its deformity and fill our
imagination with the idea of its pleasures. No one who has any feeling or a
spark of generosity or humanity in his breast can read this book without
being moved with compassion for Madame de Tourval and with horror and
disgust towards Valmont and Madame de Merteuil. It raised in my mind a
detestation of such cold-blooded, inhuman profligacy, and I felt that I would
rather every pleasure that can flow from the intercourse of women were
debarred me than run such a course. The moral effect upon my mind was
stronger than any which ever resulted from the most didactic work, and if
anyone wants to excite remorse in the most vicious mind I would
recommend him to make use of ‘Les Liaisons dangereuses’ for the purpose.
The Duchess of York died on Sunday morning of water on her chest.
She was insensible the last two days. She is deeply regretted by her
husband, her friends, and her servants. Probably no person in such a
situation was ever more really liked. She has left 12,000ℓ. to her servants
and some children whom she had caused to be educated. She had arranged
all her affairs with the greatest exactitude, and left nothing undone.
The Queen’s letter was brought to the King whilst he was at dinner (at
the Cottage). He said, ‘Tell the Queen’s messenger that the King can receive
no communication from her except through the hands of his Ministers.’
Esterhazy THE QUEEN’S TRIAL. was present, and said he did this with
extraordinary dignity.

Newmarket, October 2nd, 1820

Page 57

I left town in the middle of August with George Fox. We went down
with extraordinary rapidity. I never was happier than to escape from
London and to find myself in Yorkshire. It was a new world, and the change
was most refreshing. The refinement of London was not there, but there was
a good humour, gaiety, and hospitality which amused and delighted me.

London, October 8th, 1820
I came to town with Payne on Friday, having won a little at
Newmarket. He told me a good story by the way. A certain bishop in the
House of Lords rose to speak, and announced that he should divide what he
had to say into twelve parts, when the Duke of Wharton interrupted him,
and begged he might be indulged for a few minutes, as he had a story to tell
which he could only introduce at that moment. A drunken fellow was
passing by St. Paul’s at night, and heard the clock slowly chiming twelve.
He counted the strokes, and when it had finished looked towards the clock
and said, ‘Damn you! why couldn’t you give us all that at once?’ There was
an end of the bishop’s story.
The town is still in an uproar about the trial, and nobody has any doubt
that it will finish by the Bill being thrown out and the Ministers turned out.
Brougham’s speech was the most magnificent display of argument and
oratory that has been heard for years, and they say that the impression it
made upon the House was immense; even his most violent opponents
(including Lord Lonsdale) were struck with admiration and astonishment.

October 15th, 1820
Since I came to town I have been to the trial every day. I have
occupied a place close to Brougham, which, besides the advantage it affords
of enabling me to hear extremely well everything that passes, gives me the
pleasure of talking to him and the other counsel, and puts me behind the
scenes so far that I cannot help hearing all their conversation, their remarks,
and learning what witnesses they are going to examine, and many other
things which are interesting and amusing. Since I have been in the world I

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never remember any question which so exclusively occupied everybody’s
attention, and so completely absorbed men’s thoughts and engrossed
conversation. In the same degree is the violence displayed. It is taken up as
a party question entirely, and the consequence is that everybody is gone
mad about it. Very few people admit of any medium between pronouncing
the Queen quite innocent and judging her guilty and passing the Bill. Until
the evidence of Lieut. Hownam it was generally thought that proofs of her
guilt were wanting, but since his admission that Bergami slept under the
tent with her all unprejudiced men seem to think the adultery sufficiently
proved. The strenuous opposers of the Bill, however, by no means allow
this, and make a mighty difference between sleeping dressed under a tent
and being shut up at night in a room together, which the supporters of the
Bill contend would have been quite or nearly the same thing. The Duke of
Portland, who is perfectly impartial, and who has always been violently
against the Bill, was so satisfied by Hownam’s evidence that he told me that
after that admission by him he thought all further proceedings useless, and
that it was ridiculous to listen to any more evidence, as the fact was proved;
that he should attend no longer to any evidence upon the subject. This view
of the case will not, however, induce him to vote for the Bill, because he
thinks that upon grounds of expediency it ought not to pass. The Ministers
were elated in an extraordinary manner by this evidence of Hownam’s. The
Duke of Wellington told Madame de Lieven that he was very tired; ‘mais
les grands succès fatiguent autant que les grands revers.’ They look upon
the progress of this trial in the light of a campaign, and upon each day’s
proceedings as a sort of battle, and by the impression made by the evidence
they consider that they have gained a victory or sustained a defeat. Their
anxiety that this Bill should pass is quite inconceivable, for it cannot be
their interest that it should be carried; and as for the King, they have no
feeling whatever THE QUEEN’S TRIAL. for him. The Duke of Portland told me that
he conversed with the Duke of Wellington upon the subject, and urged as
one of the reasons why this Bill should not pass the House of Lords the
disgrace that it would entail upon the King by the recrimination that would
ensue in the House of Commons. His answer was ‘that the King was
degraded as low as he could be already.’ The vehemence with which they
pursue this object produces a corresponding violence in their language and
sentiments. Lady Harrowby, who is usually very indifferent upon political
subjects, has taken this up with unusual eagerness. In an argument which I

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had with her the day before yesterday, she said that if the House of Lords
was to suffer itself to be influenced by the opinions and wishes of the
people, it would be the most mean and pusillanimous conduct, and that after
all what did it signify what the people thought or what they expressed if the
army was to be depended upon? I answered that I never had expected that
the day would come when I should be told that we were to disregard the
feelings and wishes of the people of this country, and to look to our army
for support. In proportion as the Ministers were elated by what came out in
Hownam’s cross-examination so were they depressed by the unlucky affair
of Rastelli,[45] which has given such an important advantage to their
adversaries. Mr. Powell’s explanation was extremely unsatisfactory, and in
his examination yesterday they elicited from him what is tantamount to a
contradiction of what he had said the day before. It is not possible to doubt
what is the real state of the case. Rastelli is an active, useful agent, and they
had occasion for his services; consequently they sent him off, and trusted
that he would be back here before he could possibly be called for, if ever he
should be called for again. It was a rash speculation, which failed. The last
two days have been more amusing and interesting than the preceding ones.
The debates in the House, a good deal of violence, and some personalities
have given spirit to the proceedings, which were getting very dull. Lord
Holland made a violent speech, and Lord Carnarvon a clever one, which
was violent enough too, on Rastelli’s affair. Lord Holland made one or two
little speeches which were very comical. Lord Lauderdale made a violent
speech the other day, and paid himself in it a great many compliments. It
must be acknowledged that the zeal of many of the Peers is very
embarrassing, displayed as it is not in the elucidation of the truth, but in
furtherance of that cause of which they desire the success. There is no one
more violent than Lord Lauderdale,[46] and neither the Attorney-General nor
the Solicitor-General can act with greater zeal than he does in support of the
Bill. Lord Liverpool is a model of fairness, impartiality, and candour. The
Chancellor is equally impartial, and as he decides personally all disputes on
legal points which are referred to the House, his fairness has been
conspicuous in having generally decided in favour of the Queen’s counsel.
Yesterday morning some discussion arose about a question which
Brougham put to Powell. He asked him who was his principal, as he was an
agent. The question was objected to, and he began to defend it in an
uncommonly clever speech, but was stopped before he had spoken long. He

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introduced a very ingenious quotation which was suggested to him by
Spencer Perceval, who was standing near him. Talking of the airy,
unsubstantial being who was the WELLINGTON’S ACCOUNT OF WATERLOO. principal,
and one of the parties in this cause, he said he wished to meet
This shape—
If shape it could be called—that shape had none,
Distinguishable in member, joint, or limb;
Or substance might be called that shadow seemed,
For each seemed either . . .
What seemed its head
The likeness of a kingly crown had on.
Paradise Lost, ii. 666.
[45] [Rastelli was a witness for the Bill—not a very important one. After his examination was
over he was allowed to leave the country. Brougham found this out, and instantly demanded that he
should be recalled for further cross-examination, well knowing this could not at the moment be done.
This answered his purpose, and he then turned with incredible vehemence on the other side, and
accused them of spiriting away the witness.]
[46] [In the course of the trial, in order to show that the Queen had associated in Italy with ladies
of good character, it was stated that a Countess T—— frequented her society at Florence. On cross-
examination it came out that the Countess spoke a provincial dialect, anything but the purest Tuscan,
whence it was implied that she was a vulgar person, and Lord Lauderdale especially pointed out this
inference, speaking himself in very broad Scotch. Upon which Lord ——, a member of the
Opposition, said to the witness, ‘Have the goodness to state whether Countess T—— spoke Italian
with as broad an accent as the noble Earl who has just sat down speaks with in his native tongue.’
The late Sir Henry Holland was present when this occurred, and used to relate the anecdote.]

Whersted, December 10th, 1820
I left Woburn on Thursday night last, and got here on Friday morning.
The Lievens, Worcesters, Duke of Wellington, Neumann, and Montagu
were here. The Duke went away yesterday. We acted charades, which were
very well done. Yesterday we went to shoot at Sir Philip Brookes’. As we
went in the carriage, the Duke talked a great deal about the battle of
Waterloo and different things relating to that campaign. He said that he had
50,000 men at Waterloo. He began the campaign with 85,000 men, lost
5,000 on the 16th, and had a corps of 20,000 at Hal under Prince Frederick.
He said that it was remarkable that nobody who had ever spoken of these

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operations had ever made mention of that corps,[47] and Bonaparte was
certainly ignorant of it. In this corps were the best of the Dutch troops; it
had been placed there because the Duke expected the attack to be made on
that side. He said that the French army was the best army that was ever
seen, and that in the previous operations Bonaparte’s march upon Belgium
was the finest thing that ever was done—so rapid and so well combined.
His object was to beat the armies in detail, and this object succeeded in so
far as that he attacked them separately; but from the extraordinary celerity
with which the allied armies were got together he was not able to realise the
advantages he had promised himself. The Duke says that they certainly
were not prepared for this attack,[48] as the French had previously broken up
the roads by which their army advanced; but as it was in summer this did
not render them impassable. He says that Bonaparte beat the Prussians in a
most extraordinary way, as the battle[49] was gained in less than four hours;
but that it would probably have been more complete if he had brought a
greater number of troops into action, and not detached so large a body
against the British corps. There were 40,000 men opposed to the Duke on
the 16th, but he says that the attack was not so powerful as it ought to have
been with such a force. The French had made a long march the day before
the battle, and had driven in the Prussian posts in the evening. I asked him if
he thought Bonaparte had committed any fault. He said he thought he had
committed a fault in attacking him in the position of Waterloo; that his
object ought to have been to remove him as far as possible from the
Prussian army, and that he ought consequently to have moved upon Hal,
and to have attempted to penetrate by the same road by which the Duke had
himself advanced. He had always calculated upon Bonaparte’s doing this,
and for this purpose he had posted 20,000 men under Prince Frederick at
Hal. He said that the position at Waterloo was uncommonly strong, but that
the strength of it consisted alone in the two farms of Hougoumont and La
Haye Sainte, both of which were admirably situated and adapted for
defence. In Hougoumont there were never more than from 300 to 500 men,
who were reinforced as it was necessary; and although the French
repeatedly attacked this point, and sometimes with not less than 20,000
men, they never could even approach it. Had they obtained possession of it,
they could not have maintained it, as it was open on one side to the whole
fire of the English lines, whilst it was sheltered on the side WELLINGTON AND
BLUCHER IN PARIS. towards the French. The Duke said the farm of La Haye

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Sainte was still better than that of Hougoumont, and that it never would
have been taken if the officer who was commanding there had not neglected
to make an aperture through which ammunition could be conveyed to his
garrison.
[47] [The Duke of Wellington has frequently been criticised for leaving so important a body of
troops at Hal, so far upon his right that they were of no use in the battle. He always defended this
disposition, and maintained that the greater probability was that Napoleon would attack his extreme
right and advance by Hal. On this occasion (in 1820) he himself drew attention to it, as is explained
in the text.]
[48] [This passage is obscure, as the pronoun they can hardly refer to the allied armies: but it
stands so in the MS.]
[49] [The battle of Ligny, 16th of June, 1815.]

When we arrived at Sir Philip Brookes’ it rained, and we were obliged
to sit in the house, when the Duke talked a great deal about Paris and
different things. He told us that Blücher was determined to destroy the
Bridge of Jena. The Duke spoke to Müffling, the Governor of Paris, and
desired him to persuade Blücher to abandon this design. However, Blücher
was quite determined. He said the French had destroyed the pillar at
Rosbach and other things, and that they merited this retaliation. He also said
that the English had burnt Washington, and he did not see why he was not
to destroy this bridge. Müffling, however, concerted with the Duke that
English sentinels should be placed on the bridge, and if any Prussian
soldiers should approach to injure it, these sentinels were not to retire. This
they conceived would gain time, as they thought that previous to making
any attempt on the bridge Blücher would apply to the Duke to withdraw the
English sentinels. This was of no avail. The Prussians arrived, mined the
arches, and attempted to blow up the bridge, sentinels and all. Their design,
however, was frustrated, and the bridge received no injury. At length
Müffling came to the Duke, and said that he was come to propose to him a
compromise, which was that the bridge should be spared and the column in
the Place Vendôme should be destroyed instead. ‘I saw,’ said the Duke, ‘that
I had got out of the frying-pan into the fire. Fortunately at this moment the
King of Prussia arrived, and he ordered that no injury should be done to
either.’ On another occasion Blücher announced his intention of levying a
contribution of 100 millions on the city of Paris. To this the Duke objected,
and said that the raising such enormous contributions could only be done by
common consent, and must be a matter of general arrangement. Blücher

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said, ‘Oh! I do not mean to be the only party who is to levy anything; you
may levy as much for yourselves, and, depend upon it, if you do it will all
be paid; there will be no difficulty whatever.’ The Duke says that the two
invasions cost the French 100 millions sterling. The Allies had 1,200,000
men clothed at their expense; the allowance for this was 60 francs a man.
The army of occupation was entirely maintained; there were the
contributions, the claims amounting to ten millions sterling. Besides this
there were towns and villages destroyed and country laid waste.

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CHAPTER II.
Popularity of George IV. — The Duke of York’s Racing
Establishment — Clerk of the Council — Lord Liverpool and
Mr. Sumner — Lady Conyngham — Death of Lady Worcester
— Her Character — Ball at Devonshire House — The Duke of
York’s Aversion to the Duke of Wellington — The Pavilion at
Brighton — Lord Francis Conyngham — The King and the
Duke of Wellington — Death of the Marquis of Londonderry —
His Policy — Sir B. Bloomfield sent to Stockholm — Mr.
Canning’s Foreign Secretary — Queen Caroline and Brougham
— Canning and George IV. — Lord William Bentinck aspires to
go to India — His Disappointment — The Duke of York’s Duel
with Colonel Lennox — George III.’s Will — George IV.
appropriates the late King’s Personal Property — The Duke of
Wellington on the Congress of Verona and on the Politics of
Europe — Intervention in Spain — Ferdinand VII. — M. de
Villèle — The Duke’s opinion of Napoleon — Sir William
Knighton — The Duke of York’s Anecdotes of George IV. —
Death of the Marquis of Titchfield — His character.

Page 65

1821.

London, February 7th, 1821
The King went to the play last night (Drury Lane) for the first time, the
Dukes of York and Clarence and a great suite with him. He was received
with immense acclamations, the whole pit standing up, hurrahing and
waving their hats. The boxes were very empty at first, for the mob occupied
the avenues to the theatre, and those who had engaged boxes could not get
to them. The crowd on the outside was very great. Lord Hertford dropped
one of the candles as he was lighting the King in, and made a great
confusion in the box. The King sat in Lady Bessborough’s box, which was
fitted up for him. He goes to Covent Garden to-night. A few people called
‘The Queen,’ but very few. A man in the gallery called out, ‘Where’s your
wife, Georgy?’

February 11th, 1821
I came to town from Euston the end of last month. The debates were
expected to be very stormy and the minorities very large, not that anybody
expected Ministers to go out. It has all ended as such anticipations usually
do, in everything going off very quietly and the Government obtaining large
majorities. Their Parliamentary successes and the King’s reception have
greatly elated them, and they think (and with reason probably) that they are
likely to enjoy their places for the term of their natural lives, not that they
care about the King’s popularity except in as much as it may add strength to
their Administration. They do not conceal their contempt or dislike of him,
and it is one of the phenomena of the present times that the King should
have Ministers whom he abuses and hates, and who entertain corresponding
sentiments of aversion to him; yet they defend all his errors and follies, and
he affords them constant countenance and protection. However, the King

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was delighted by his reception at the theatres, and told Lady Bessborough,
as he came downstairs, he never was more gratified.

February 23rd, 1821
Yesterday the Duke of York proposed to me to take the management of
his horses, which I accepted. Nothing could be more kind than the manner
in which he proposed it.[1]

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[1] [Mr. Greville continued to manage the racing establishment of the Duke of York from this
time till the death of his Royal Highness.]

March 5th, 1821
I have experienced a great proof of the vanity of human wishes. In the
course of three weeks I have attained the three things which I have most
desired in the world for years past, and upon the whole I do not feel that my
happiness is at all increased; perhaps if it were not for one cause it might
be, but until that ceases to exist it is in vain that I acquire every other
advantage or possess the means of amusement.[2]
[2] [One of these things was Mr. Greville’s appointment as Clerk of the Council; the second was
his connection with the Duke of York in his racing establishment; I am ignorant of the third.]

March 22nd, 1821
I was sworn in the day before yesterday, THE CLERKSHIP OF THE COUNCIL. and
kissed hands at a Council at Carlton House yesterday morning as Clerk of
the Council.

March 25th, 1821
Lord Fife has been dismissed from his place of Lord of the
Bedchamber for voting against the Malt Tax, and Lord Lovaine has been
appointed instead.

April 19th, 1821
The night before last Hobhouse made his furious attack upon Canning.
Last night everybody expected that Canning would speak, and was
extremely anxious to hear what notice he would take of Hobhouse. The
army estimates came on first in the evening, and almost all the members

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went away, intending to return to the Reform debate, but when Reform
came on there were only 100 members in the House. ‘Le combat finit faute
de combattans,’ and when everybody came crowding down at nine o’clock
the House had been up half an hour, having divided 53 to 41.[3]
[3] [On the 17th of April Mr. Lambton (afterwards Earl of Durham) moved for a Committee of
the whole House to consider the state of the representation of the people in Parliament. It was owing
to the misapprehension described in the text that the division was so small.]

May 2nd, 1821
When the Canonry of Windsor became vacant Lady Conyngham asked
the King to give it to Mr. Sumner,[4] who had been Mount Charles’s tutor.
The King agreed: the man was sent for, and kissed hands at Brighton. A
letter was written to Lord Liverpool to announce the appointment. In the
meantime Lord Liverpool had sent a list of persons, one of whom he should
recommend to succeed to the vacancy, and the letters crossed. As soon as
Lord Liverpool received the letter from Brighton he got into his carriage
and went down to the King, to state that unless he was allowed to have the
distribution of this patronage without any interference, he could not carry
on the Government, and would resign his office if Sumner was appointed.
The man was only a curate, and had never held a living at all. The King
‘chanta palinodie,’ and a sort of compromise was made, by which Lady
Conyngham’s friend was withdrawn, and the King begged it might be given
to Dr. Clarke, to which appointment Lord Liverpool consented, although he
did not approve of him; he did not, however, wish to appear too difficult.
[4] [Afterwards Bishop of Winchester. This was the beginning of the fortune of that amiable
prelate, of whom it must be said that if he owed his early advancement to a questionable influence,
no man has filled the episcopal office with more unaffected piety, dignity, and goodness. The
difference between George IV. and Lord Liverpool on this occasion was a very serious one. The
Duke of Wellington referred to it in a confidential letter to Lord Liverpool, written on the 26th of
October, 1821, in the following terms:—‘As I told you at Windsor, the King has never forgiven your
opposition to his wishes in the case of Mr. Sumner. This feeling has influenced every action of his
life in relation to his Government from that moment; and I believe to more than one of us he avowed
that his objection to Mr. Canning was that his accession to the Government was peculiarly desirable
to you. Nothing can be more unjust or more unfair than this feeling; and as there is not one of your
colleagues who did not highly approve of what you did respecting Mr. Sumner, so there is not one of
them who would not suffer with you all the consequences of that act.’ (‘Correspondence of the Duke
of Wellington,’ Second Series, vol. i. p. 195; published in 1867.)]

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Lady Conyngham lives in one of the houses in Marlborough Row. All
the members of her family are continually there, and are supplied with
horses, carriages, &c., from the King’s stables. She rides out with her
daughter, but never with the King, who always rides with one of his
gentlemen. They never appear in public together. She dines there every day.
Before the King comes into the room she and Lady Elizabeth join him in
another room, and he always walks in with one on each arm. She comports
herself entirely as mistress of the house, but never suffers her daughter to
leave her. She has received magnificent presents, and Lady Elizabeth the
same; particularly the mother has strings of pearls of enormous value.
Madame de Lieven said she had seen the pearls of the Grand Duchesses and
the Prussian Princesses, but had never seen any nearly so fine as Lady
Conyngham’s. The other night Lady Bath was coming to the Pavilion. After
dinner Lady Conyngham called to Sir William Keppel and said, ‘Sir
William, do desire them to light up the saloon’ (this saloon is lit by
hundreds of candles). When the King came in she said to him, ‘Sir, I told
them to light up the saloon, as Lady Bath is coming this evening.’ The King
seized her arm and said with the greatest tenderness, ‘Thank you, thank
you, THE DEATH OF LADY WORCESTER. my dear; you always do what is right; you
cannot please me so much as by doing everything you please, everything to
show that you are mistress here.’

May 12th, 1821
I have suffered the severest pain I ever had in my life by the death of
Lady Worcester.[5] I loved her like a sister, and I have lost one of the few
persons in the world who cared for me, and whose affection and friendship
serve to make life valuable to me. She has been cut off in the prime of her
life and in the bloom of her beauty, and so suddenly too. Seven days ago
she was at a ball at Court, and she is now no more. She died like a heroine,
full of cheerfulness and courage to the last. She has been snatched from life
at a time when she was becoming every day more fit to live, for her mind,
her temper, and her understanding were gradually and rapidly improving;
she had faults, but her mind was not vicious, and her defects may be
ascribed to her education and to the actual state of the society in which she
lived. Her virtues were inherent in her character; every day developed them

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more and more, and they were such as to make the happiness of all who
lived with her and to captivate the affection of all who really knew her. I
have never lost anyone I loved before, and though I know the grief I now
feel will soon subside (for so the laws of nature have ordained), long, long
will it be before I forget her, or before my mind loses the lively impression
of her virtues and of our mutual friendship.
[5] [Georgiana Frederica, Marchioness of Worcester, daughter of the Hon. Charles Fitzroy,
married to Henry, afterwards seventh Duke of Beaufort, in 1814, died 11th of May, 1821. This
lamented lady left two daughters, afterwards Lady Augusta Neumann and Lady Georgiana
Codrington.]

This is one of those melancholy events in life to which the mind
cannot for a long time reconcile or accustom itself. I saw her so short a time
ago ‘glittering like the morning star, full of life and splendour and joy;’ the
accents of her voice still so vibrate in my ear that I cannot believe I shall
never see her again. What a subject for contemplation and for moralising!
What reflections crowd into the mind!
Dr. Hume told me once he had witnessed many death-beds, but he had
never seen anything like the fortitude and resignation displayed by her. She
died in his arms, and without pain. As life ebbed away her countenance
changed, and when at length she ceased to breathe, a beautiful and tranquil
smile settled upon her face.
Call round her tomb each, object of desire,
Each, purer frame informed by purer fire;
Let her be all that cheers or softens life,
The tender sister, daughter, friend, and wife:
Bid her be all that makes mankind adore,
Then view this marble, and be vain no more.

June 24th, 1821
The King dined at Devonshire House last Thursday se’nnight. Lady
Conyngham had on her head a sapphire which belonged to the Stuarts, and
was given by Cardinal York to the King. He gave it to the Princess
Charlotte, and when she died he desired to have it back, Leopold being

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informed it was a crown jewel. This crown jewel sparkled in the headdress
of the Marchioness at the ball. I ascertained the Duke of York’s sentiments
upon this subject the other day. He was not particularly anxious to discuss
it, but he said enough to show that he has no good opinion of her. The other
day, as we were going to the races from Oatlands, he gave me the history of
the Duke of Wellington’s life. His prejudice against him is excessively
strong, and I think if ever he becomes King the other will not be
Commander-in-Chief. He does not deny his military talents, but he thinks
that he is false and ungrateful, that he never gave sufficient credit to his
officers, and that he was unwilling to put forward men of talent who might
be in a situation to claim some share of credit, the whole of which he was
desirous of engrossing himself. He says that at Waterloo he got into a scrape
and avowed himself to be surprised, and he attributes in great measure the
success of that day to Lord Anglesea, who, he says, was hardly mentioned,
and that in the coldest terms, in the Duke’s despatch.[6]
[6] [The unjust and unfavourable opinion expressed of the Duke of Wellington by the Duke of
York dated from the appointment of Sir Arthur Wellesley to a high command, and afterwards to the
chief command of the army in Portugal. The Duke of York had at one moment entertained hopes of
commanding that army, but when he was made to understand that this was impossible he erroneously
attributed this disappointment to the intrigues of those who were preferred before him. This matter is
explained with further particulars sub 24th of December, 1822.]

December 18th, 1821
I have not written anything for months. ‘Quante cose mi
THE PAVILION.
sono accadute!’ My progress was as follows, not very interesting:—To
Newmarket, Whersted, Riddlesworth, Sprotborough, Euston, Elveden,
Welbeck, Caversham, Nun Appleton, Welbeck, Burghley, and London.
Nothing worth mentioning occurred at any of these places. Sprotborough
was agreeable enough. The Grevilles, Montagu, Wilmot, and the Wortleys
were there. I came to town, went to Brighton yesterday se’nnight for a
Council. I was lodged in the Pavilion and dined with the King. The gaudy
splendour of the place amused me for a little and then bored me. The dinner
was cold and the evening dull beyond all dulness. They say the King is
anxious that form and ceremony should be banished, and if so it only
proves how impossible it is that form and ceremony should not always
inhabit a palace. The rooms are not furnished for society, and, in fact,

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society cannot flourish without ease; and who can feel at ease who is under
the eternal constraint which etiquette and respect impose? The King was in
good looks and good spirits, and after dinner cut his jokes with all the
coarse merriment which is his characteristic. Lord Wellesley did not seem
to like it, but of course he bowed and smiled like the rest. I saw nothing
very particular in the King’s manner to Lady Conyngham. He sat by her on
the couch almost the whole evening, playing at patience, and he took her in
to dinner; but Madame de Lieven and Lady Cowper were there, and he
seemed equally civil to all of them. I was curious to see the Pavilion and the
life they lead there, and I now only hope I may never go there again, for the
novelty is past, and I should be exposed to the whole weight of the bore of
it without the stimulus of curiosity.

December 19th, 1821
I dined with Lord Gwydir yesterday, and sat next to Prince Lieven. He
told me that Bloomfield is no longer in favour, that he has been supplanted
by Lord Francis Conyngham,[7] who now performs almost all the functions
which formerly appertained to Bloomfield. He is quite aware of his decline,
and submits himself to it in a manly way. He is no longer so necessary to
the King as he was, for a short time ago he could not bear that Bloomfield
should be absent, and now his absence is unfelt. Francis goes to the King
every morning, usually breakfasts with him, and receives all his orders. He
was invited to go to Panshanger for two days, and was very anxious to go,
but he could not obtain leave from the King to absent himself. Bloomfield
does not put himself forward; ‘même il se retire,’ he said, and it is
understood that he has made up his mind to resign his situation and leave
the Court. The King is still perfectly civil and good-humoured to him, but
has withdrawn his confidence from him, and Bloomfield is no longer his
first servant.
[7] [Lord Francis Conyngham, second son of the first Marquis of Conyngham (who was raised
to the British peerage in June 1821), afterwards himself Marquis of Conyngham.]

I asked Lieven whether Francis Conyngham, in performing the other
duties which had been hitherto allotted to Bloomfield, also exercised the
functions of Private Secretary, because this involved a much more serious

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question. He said that he did not know; all he knew was that whilst he was
at Brighton Bloomfield was absent for five days, and that during that time
the other had ostensibly occupied the place which Bloomfield used to hold
about the King’s person. The commencement of this revolution in the
King’s sentiments is to be dated from the journey to Hanover. Now
Bloomfield sits amongst the guests at dinner at the Pavilion; the honours are
done by the father on one side and the son on the other.

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1822.

July 16th, 1822
Since I wrote last I have been continually in town. I have won on the
Derby, my sister is married,[8] and DEATH OF LORD LONDONDERRY. I have done
nothing worth recording. How habit and practice change our feelings, our
opinions; and what an influence they have upon our thoughts and actions!
Objects which I used to contemplate at an immeasurable distance, and to
attain which I thought would be the summit of felicity, I have found worth
very little in comparison to the value my imagination used to set upon
them.... London is nearly over, has been tolerably agreeable; but I have been
very often bored to death by the necessity of paying some attention to keep
up an interest.
[8] [Miss Greville married Lord Francis Leveson Gower, afterwards Earl of Ellesmere, in 1822.]

July 30th, 1822
Madame de Lieven is ill with the King, and is miserable in
consequence. Lady Cowper is her confidante, and the Duke of Wellington;
but this latter pretends to know nothing of it, and asked me the other day
what it was, I am sure in order to discover what people say. When the Duke
was at Brighton in the winter, he and the King had a dispute about the army.
It began (it was at dinner) by the King’s saying that the Russians or the
Prussians (I forget which) were the best infantry in the world. The Duke
said, ‘Except your Majesty’s.’ The King then said the English cavalry were
the best, which the Duke denied; then that an inferior number of French
regiments would always beat a superior number of English, and, in short,
that they were not half so effective. The King was very angry; the dispute
waxed warm, and ended by his Majesty rising from table and saying, ‘Well,
it is not for me to dispute on such a subject with your Grace.’ The King

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does not like the Duke, nor does the Duke of York. This I know from
himself.

August 13th, 1822
I went to Cirencester on Friday and came back yesterday. At Hounslow
I heard of the death of Lord Londonderry.[9] When I got to town I met
several people who had all assumed an air of melancholy, a visage de
circonstance, which provoked me inexpressibly, because it was certain that
they did not care; indeed, if they felt at all, it was probably rather
satisfaction at an event happening than sorrow for the death of the person. It
seems Lord Londonderry had been unwell for some time, but not seriously,
and a few days before this catastrophe he became much worse, and was
very much dejected. He told Lord Granville some time ago that he was
worn out with fatigue, and he told Count Münster the other day that he was
very ill indeed. The Duke of Wellington saw him on Friday, and was so
struck by the appearance of illness about him that he sent Bankhead to him.
He was cupped on Saturday in London, got better, and went to Foot’s Cray.
On Sunday he was worse, and the state of dejection in which he appeared
induced his attendants to take certain precautions, which unfortunately,
however, proved fruitless. They removed his pistols and his razors, but he
got hold of a penknife which was in the room next his, and on Sunday night
or early on Monday morning he cut his throat with it. There is not a
Minister in town but Lord Liverpool, Vansittart, and the Chancellor. Lord
Bathurst is at Cirencester, the Duke of Wellington in Holland, Lord
Sidmouth in Yorkshire, Peel and Lord Melville in Scotland with the King.
No event ever gave rise to more speculation with the few people there are
left to speculate, and the general opinion seems to be that Canning will not
go to India,[10] but will be appointed in his room. It certainly opens a door
to his ambition as well as to that of Peel, who, unless Canning comes into
office, must of necessity lead the House of Commons. Another speculation
is that Lord Liverpool will take this opportunity of resigning, and that the
King will form a Whig Ministry. I do not believe Lord Liverpool wishes to
resign, and my opinion is that Canning will come into office.
[9] [Lord Castlereagh, far better known by that name, succeeded as second Marquis of
Londonderry on the 11th of April, 1821—only sixteen months before his death.]

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[10] [Mr. Canning had just accepted the office of Governor-General of India, and was about to
go out to that country.]

I had hardly any acquaintance with Lord Londonderry, and therefore
am not in the slightest degree affected by his death. As a Minister he is a
great loss to his party, and still greater to his friends and dependents, to
whom he was the best of patrons; to the country I think he is none.
CHARACTER OF LORD LONDONDERRY. Nobody can deny that his talents were great,
and perhaps he owed his influence and authority as much to his character as
to his abilities. His appearance was dignified and imposing; he was affable
in his manners and agreeable in society. The great feature of his character
was a cool and determined courage, which gave an appearance of resolution
and confidence to all his actions, and inspired his friends with admiration
and excessive devotion to him, and caused him to be respected by his most
violent opponents. As a speaker he was prolix, monotonous, and never
eloquent, except, perhaps, for a few minutes when provoked into a passion
by something which had fallen out in debate. But, notwithstanding these
defects, and still more the ridicule which his extraordinary phraseology had
drawn upon him, he was always heard with attention. He never spoke ill;
his speeches were continually replete with good sense and strong argument,
and though they seldom offered much to admire, they generally contained a
great deal to be answered. I believe he was considered one of the best
managers of the House of Commons who ever sat in it, and he was
eminently possessed of the good taste, good humour, and agreeable
manners which are more requisite to make a good leader than eloquence,
however brilliant. With these qualities, it may be asked why he was not a
better Minister, and who can answer that question? or who can aver that he
did not pursue the policy which he conscientiously believed to be most
advantageous to his country? Nay, more, who can say but from surmise and
upon speculation that it was not the best? I believe that he was seduced by
his vanity, that his head was turned by emperors, kings, and congresses, and
that he was resolved that the country which he represented should play as
conspicuous a part as any other in the political dramas which were acted on
the Continent. The result of his policy is this, that we are mixed up in the
affairs of the Continent in a manner we have never been before, which
entails upon us endless negotiations and enormous expenses. We have
associated ourselves with the members of the Holy Alliance, and
countenanced the acts of ambition and despotism in such a manner as to

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have drawn upon us the detestation of the nations of the Continent; and our
conduct towards them at the close of the war has brought a stain upon our
character for bad faith and desertion which no time will wipe away, and the
recollection of which will never be effaced from their minds.

August 19th, 1822
I went to Brighton on Saturday to see the Duke [of York]; returned to-
day. The Pavilion is finished. The King has had a subterranean passage
made from the house to the stables, which is said to have cost 3,000ℓ. or
5,000ℓ.; I forget which. There is also a bath in his apartment, with pipes to
conduct water from the sea; these pipes cost 600ℓ. The King has not taken a
sea bath for sixteen years.
The Marquis of Londonderry is to be buried to-morrow in Westminster
Abbey. It is thought injudicious to have anything like an ostentatious
funeral, considering the circumstances under which he died, but it is the
particular wish of his widow. She seems to consider the respect which is
paid to his remains as a sort of testimony to his character, and nothing will
pacify her feelings or satisfy her affection but seeing him interred with all
imaginable honours. It seems that he gave several indications of a perturbed
mind a short time previous to his death. For some time past he had been
dejected, and his mind was haunted with various apprehensions, particularly
with a notion that he was in great personal danger. On the day (the 3rd of
August) he gave a great dinner at Cray to his political friends, some of them
finding the wine very good, wished to compliment him upon it, and
Arbuthnot called out, ‘Lord Londonderry!’ He instantly jumped up with
great vivacity, and stood as if in expectation of something serious that was
to follow. When he was told that it was about the wine they wished to speak
to him, he sat down; but his manner was so extraordinary that Huskisson
remarked it to Wilmot as they came home. In the last interview which the
Duke of Wellington had with him he said he never heard him converse upon
affairs with more clearness and strength of mind CANNING RETURNS TO OFFICE.
than that day. In the middle of the conversation, however, he said, ‘To prove
to you what danger I am in, my own servants think so, and that I ought to
go off directly, that I have no time to lose, and they keep my horses saddled

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that I may get away quickly; they think that I should not have time to go
away in a carriage.’ Then ringing the bell violently, he said to the servant,
‘Tell me, sir, instantly who ordered my horses here; who sent them up to
town?’ The man answered that the horses were at Cray, and had never been
in town. The Duke desired the man to go, and in consequence of this
strange behaviour wrote the letter to Bankhead which has been since
published.

August 20th, 1822
Knighton went with the King to Scotland, and slept in one of his
Majesty’s own cabins, that next to him. He is supposed to have been
appointed Privy Purse. Bloomfield has got the mission to Stockholm. When
Bloomfield was dismissed a disposition was shown to treat him in a very
unceremonious manner; but he would not stand this, and displayed a spirit
which he was probably enabled to assume in consequence of what he
knows. When they found he was not to be bullied they treated with him, and
gave him every honour and emolument he could desire.

September 22nd, 1822
I saw Lady Bathurst on the 13th. Canning had not then sent his answer,
and greatly surprised were the Ministers at the delay. Lord Liverpool’s
proposal to him was simple and unclogged with conditions—the Foreign
Office and the lead in the House of Commons. The King’s repugnance to
his coming into office was extreme, and it required all the efforts of his
Ministers to surmount it. The Duke of Wellington and Peel have all the
credit of having persuaded the King to consent, but Lord Bathurst’s
arguments influenced him as much as those of any person, and he told Lady
Conyngham that he was more satisfied by what Lord Bathurst had said to
him on the subject than by any of the Ministers. I know that amongst the
Canning party Lord Bathurst is supposed to have joined with the Chancellor
in opposing his appointment. The danger in which the Duke of Wellington
was sensibly affected the King, because at this moment the Duke is in high
favour with him; and when he heard he was so ill he sent Knighton to him

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to comfort him with a promise that he would reconsider the proposal of
receiving Canning, and the next day he signified his consent. I saw a note
from Lady Conyngham to Lady Bathurst, in which she gave an account of
the uneasiness and agitation in which the King had been in consequence of
the Duke’s illness, saying how much she had suffered in consequence, and
how great had been their relief, when Knighton brought word that he was
better. The ‘dear King,’ she said, was more composed. She added that she
(Lady B.) would hear that evening what would give her pleasure, and this
was that the King had agreed to take Canning. In a conversation also Lady
C. said that she did hope, now the King had yielded his own inclination to
the wishes and advice of his Ministers, that they would behave to him better
than they had done. Canning was sworn in on Monday. His friends say that
he was very well received. The King told Madame de Lieven that having
consented to receive him, he had behaved to him, as he always did, in the
most gentlemanlike manner he could, and that on delivering to him the
seals, he said to him that he had been advised by his Ministers that his
abilities and eloquence rendered him the only fit man to succeed to the
vacancy which Lord Londonderry’s death had made, and that, in appointing
him to the situation, he had only to desire that he would follow the steps of
his predecessor. This Madame de Lieven told to Lady Jersey, and she to me.
It seems that the King was so struck with Lord Londonderry’s manner (for
he said to the King nearly what he said to the Duke of Wellington), and so
persuaded that some fatal catastrophe would take place, that when Peel
came to inform him of what had happened, he said to him before he spoke,
‘I know you are come to tell me that Londonderry is dead.’ Peel had just left
him, and upon receiving the despatches immediately returned; and when
Lady Conyngham was told by Lord Mount Charles that there was a report
that he was dead, she said, ‘Good God! then he has destroyed QUEEN
CAROLINE’S RETURN. himself.’ She knew what had passed with the King, and
was the only person to whom he had told it.

September 23rd, 1822
George Bentinck, who thinks there never existed such a man as
Canning, and who probably has heard from him some circumstances
connected with his resignation at the time of the Queen’s trial, told ——

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that it was in consequence of a dispute between the King and his Ministers
concerning the payment of the expenses of the Milan Commission. The
Ministers wished the King to pay the expenses himself, and he wished them
to be defrayed by Government. Lord Londonderry promised the King
(without the concurrence of the other Ministers) that the expenses should be
paid by Government, but with money ostensibly appropriated to other
purposes. This Canning could not endure, and resigned. Such is his story,
which probably is partly true and partly false.

November 5th, 1822
I have been to Newmarket, Euston, Riddlesworth, Rendlesham,
Whersted, besides going to town several times and to Brighton. Since I left
London for the Doncaster races I have travelled near 1,200 miles. At
Riddlesworth the Duke of York told me a great deal about the Queen and
Brougham, but he was so unintelligible that part I could not make out and
part I do not remember. What I can recollect amounts to this, that the
Emperor of Austria was the first person who informed the King of the
Queen’s conduct in Italy, that after the enquiry was set on foot a negotiation
was entered into with the Queen, the basis of which was that she should
abdicate the title of Queen, and that to this she had consented. He said that
Brougham had acted a double part, for that he had acquiesced in the
propriety of her acceding to those terms, and had promised that he would go
over to her and confirm her in her resolution to agree to them; that he had
not only not gone, but that whilst he was making these promises to
Government he had written to the Queen desiring her to come over. The
Duke told me that a man (whose name he did not mention) came to him and
said, ‘So the Queen comes over?’ He said, ‘No, she does not.’ The man said,
‘I know she does, for Brougham has written to her to come; I saw the
letter.’ If Lord Liverpool and Lord Londonderry had thought proper to
publish what had been done on the part of Brougham, he would have been
covered with infamy; but they would not do it, and he thinks they were
wrong. The rest I cannot remember.[11]
[11] [This is an erroneous and imperfect account of this important transaction, the particulars of
which are related by Lord Brougham in his ‘Memoirs,’ cap. xvi. vol. ii. p. 352, and still more fully by
Mr. Yonge in his ‘Life of Lord Liverpool,’ vol. iii. p. 52. Mr. Brougham had sent his brother James to

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the Queen at Geneva to dissuade her from setting out for England, but, as he himself observes, ‘I was
quite convinced that if she once set out she never would stop short.’ He met her himself at St. Omer,
being the bearer of a memorandum dated the 15th of April, 1820, which contained the terms
proposed by the King’s Government. He went to St. Omer in company with Lord Hutchinson, but
Mr. Brougham, and not Lord Hutchinson, was the bearer of these propositions. Lord Hutchinson had
no copy of the document. The extraordinary part of Mr. Brougham’s conduct was that he never at all
submitted or made known to the Queen the memorandum of the 15th of April; and she knew nothing
of it till she had reached London, when all negotiation was broken off. This fact Lord Brougham does
not explain in his ‘Memoirs;’ but Lord Hutchinson declared in his report to Lord Liverpool that in
truth Brougham ‘did not appear to possess the smallest degree of power, weight, or authority over the
mind of the Queen’ when at St. Omer.]

Welbeck, November 16th, 1822
I have had a great deal of conversation with Titchfield,[12] particularly
about Canning, and he told me this curious fact about his coming into
office:—When the King had consented to receive him he wrote a letter
nearly in these words to Lord Liverpool: ‘The King thinks that the brightest
jewel in the crown is to extend his forgiveness [I am not sure that this was
the word[13]] to a subject who has offended him, and he therefore informs
Lord L. that he consents to Mr. Canning forming a part of the Cabinet.’ This
letter was communicated by Lord Liverpool to Canning, and upon reading
it he was indignant, as were his wife and his daughter. The CANNING AND GEORGE
IV. consequence was that he wrote a most violent and indignant reply,
addressed to the same person to whom the other letter had been addressed,
and which was intended in like manner to be shown to the King, as the
King’s letter was to him. Upon hearing what had passed, however, down
came Lord Granville and Mr. Ellis in a great hurry, and used every
argument to dissuade him from sending the letter, urging that he had
entirely misunderstood the purport of the letter which had offended him;
that it was intended as an invitation to reconciliation, and contained nothing
which could have been meant as offensive; that the country would be so
dissatisfied (which ardently desired and expected that he should come into
office) if he rejected this overture that he would not be justified in refusing
his services to the public, who so anxiously wished for them. These
arguments, vehemently urged and put in every possible shape, prevailed,
and the angry reply was put in the fire, and another written full of gratitude,
duty, and acquiescence.

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[12] [The Marquis of Titchfield, eldest son of the fourth Duke of Portland, Mr. Greville’s first
cousin, died in the twenty-eighth year of his age.]
[13] [The exact words in the King’s letter to Lord Liverpool are ‘extend his grace and favour to
a subject who may have incurred his displeasure.’ This letter, Lord Liverpool’s letter transmitting it to
Mr. Canning, and Mr. Canning’s answer to Lord Liverpool are now all published in Mr. Yonge’s ‘Life
and Administration of Lord Liverpool,’ vol. iii. p. 200.]

London, November 24th, 1822
The morning I left Welbeck I had a long conversation with Titchfield
upon various matters connected with politics and his family, particularly
relating to Lord William’s correspondence with Lord Liverpool about the
Government of India. He showed me this correspondence, in which, as I
anticipated, Lord William had the worst of it. Lord Liverpool’s answer was
unanswerable. He showed me also a very long letter which he had received
from Lord William, together with the copies of the correspondence, which
was written the evening before he went abroad. In this letter (which I only
read once, and which was so long that I cannot recollect it) he gave a
detailed account of his sentiments upon the Indian matter, with the reasons
for his having acted as he did, also his feelings with regard to the manner in
which Canning had behaved upon the occasion and a conversation which he
had with Mrs. Canning.[14] This latter I think exceedingly curious, because
it serves to show what the object and the pretensions of Canning are in
taking office, and exhibit that ambition the whole extent of which he dares
not show. It seems that the Directors were anxious that Lord William should
be appointed Governor-General, and this he knew through friends of his in
the Court. Government, however, having signified their dissent to his
nomination, Lord Amherst was nominated by the Court and accepted. Lord
William’s displeasure with Canning arises from an idea that Canning was
backward in supporting his interests in this matter, and that he kept aloof
from Lord William, and acquiesced in his rejection without ever
communicating with him on the subject. Had Canning stated to him the
difficulties under which he laboured, from his anxiety to serve him on the
one hand and his obligation of coinciding with his colleagues on the other,
Lord William would not have hesitated to desire him to abandon his
interests rather than involve himself in any embarrassment on his account.
He wrote to Lord Liverpool to complain that the Court of Directors being

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inclined to nominate him, Lord L. had interposed his influence to prevent
that nomination; that he did not ask Lord L. to consent to his appointment,
but he did ask him not to interpose his influence to prevent his nomination,
because that nomination was essential to his character, as proving that the
Court of Directors were satisfied of the injustice with which he had been
treated in the affair of the Vellore mutiny. Lord Liverpool’s answer was
short and civil, assuring him that he had neither directly nor indirectly
exerted any influence at all, maintaining his right to give his opinion to the
Directors in case it had been asked, and stating that Lord Amherst had been
proposed by the Court and accepted by Government.[15] LORD WILLIAM
BENTINCK. Whilst this matter was still pending, and before Lord Amherst’s
appointment had been made known, Lord William went to Gloucester
Lodge. He saw Mrs. Canning, and being anxious to acquire information
concerning the Indian appointment, he told her that she had an opportunity
of obliging him by telling him anything she knew concerning it. She
answered very quickly and in a very bad humour, ‘Oh, it is all settled; Lord
Amherst is appointed.’ She then put into his hand a letter which Canning
had received that morning from the Duke of Portland, declining his offer of
the Private Secretaryship for John and George, alleging as a reason the
hostile politics of Lord William and Titchfield. Mrs. Canning said that she
had no idea that they would not have supported Canning, that she was
aware they differed on some matters of minor importance, but that she had
imagined their general opinions to be similar; that she had conceived Lord
William’s opposition to have been directed against Lord Londonderry, and
that it would have ceased with his death; that ‘the present must be
considered as a new Administration, and that Canning must be virtually
Minister of the country.’ Lord William replied that he could not view it in
that light, that he thought it likely the introduction of Canning into the
Cabinet might effect a beneficial influence on the measures of Government,
and more particularly that a system of foreign policy might be adopted
more congenial to his sentiments upon that subject; that it would give him
the greatest pleasure to see such a change of measures as would enable him
to give his support to a Government of which Canning was so conspicuous
a member, but that he could not think that to be a new Administration which
was composed (with the sole exception of Canning) of precisely the same
persons of which it consisted before he joined them.

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[14] [Mrs. Canning was the younger sister of Henrietta, wife of the fourth Duke of Portland,
both of them being the daughters and coheiresses of Major-General John Scott of Balcomie. Lord
William Bentinck, the Duke’s brother, was therefore a near connection, and Lord George Bentinck
and Lord John Bentinck, the Duke’s sons, were by their mother’s side Mrs. Canning’s nephews. Lady
Charlotte Greville, Mr. Charles Greville’s mother, was of course connected with Mrs. Canning in the
same degree as her brother Lord William Bentinck.]
[15] [Lord Liverpool’s letter to the King on this appointment has been published by Mr. Yonge
in his Life of that statesman. He stated strongly to George IV. his opinion that although Lord William
Bentinck was supported by a powerful party in the Court of Directors, he thought it would be
‘humiliating to the Government and productive of the very worst effects to appoint to such a station a
man who had taken so strong a part in Parliamentary Opposition.’ George IV. replied that he thought
it ‘highly unadvisable that Lord William Bentinck should be the successor of the Marquis of
Hastings.’ (Yonge’s ‘Life of Lord Liverpool,’ vol. iii. p. 204.) Lord William Bentinck had previously
been Governor of Madras at the time of the mutiny at Vellore.]

George,[16] after having refused the Private Secretaryship, was talked
over by Canning and accepted it. He tried to gain over John, but he refused
to share it.
[16] [Lord George Bentinck, third son of the fourth Duke of Portland; born 1802, died 1848;
afterwards distinguished as the leader of the Protectionist party.]

Canning wished that Manners Sutton should be appointed Governor-
General, in order that Wynn might be made Speaker, and room made for
Huskisson in the Cabinet; but Wynn would not have given up his situation,
and it is very much suspected that if he had, the strength of Government
would have been insufficient to procure his election as Speaker, so
unpopular is he in the House.

December 24th, 1822
The other day I went to Bushy with the Duke [of York], and as we
passed over Wimbledon Common he showed me the spot where he fought
his duel with the Duke of Richmond. He then told me the whole story and
all the circumstances which led to it, most of which are in print. That which
I had never heard before was that at a masquerade three masks insulted the
Prince of Wales, when the Duke interfered, desired the one who was most
prominent to address himself to him, and added that he suspected him to be
an officer in his regiment (meaning Colonel Lennox), and if he was he was
a coward and a disgrace to his profession; if he was not the person he took
him for, he desired him to unmask, and he would beg his pardon. The three

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masks were supposed to be Colonel Lennox, the Duke of Gordon, and Lady
Charlotte. This did not lead to any immediate consequences, but perhaps
indirectly contributed to what followed. The Duke never found out whether
the masks were the people he suspected.
The last time I was with him he told me a variety of particulars about
the Duke of Wellington’s conduct at the siege of Seringapatam, of Lord
Harris’s reluctance to entrust the command of a storming party to him, of
his not arriving at the place of rendezvous the first night, of Lord Harris’s
DUKE OF YORK’S DISLIKE TO WELLINGTON. anger and the difficulty with which he was
brought to consent to his being employed the second night, when he
distinguished himself so signally. Amongst various other matters, of which
it was impossible to bring away a perfect recollection, from his confused
manner of narrating, and particularly his inaccuracy as to dates, he told me
(with many recommendations to secrecy) that which immediately explained
to me the dislike which he certainly bears to the Duke and (which I did not
know before) to Lord Londonderry. He said that after the retreat of our
army under Sir J. Moore from Spain (he was not quite certain himself as to
the exact period, though a reference to the history of that period will
probably elucidate the matter) Lord L. sent for him, and communicated to
him that it was the intention of Government to send out an expedition to
Portugal, and to confer the command of it upon him. He replied that if
called upon he should consider it his duty to serve, but he should never
solicit any command. Nothing more passed at that time, but the newspapers
by some means immediately got hold of this project and violently attacked
the Government for thinking of sending him out. He does not appear to
have known what intermediate deliberation led to a change in the
determination of the Ministers in regard to himself. He says that Lord
Chatham, who was much attached to him, and was then a Cabinet Minister,
came to him one day, and told him he was betrayed, and that he was
sacrificed to make way for Sir A. Wellesley; that soon after this Lord L. sent
for him, and said that he was extremely sorry that public opinion was so
strongly against his appointment to the command of the army that it was
impossible for Government to confer it upon him. Soon after this the
expedition was formed, and Sir A. Wellesley was appointed to the
command. This was the Duke’s own version of the transaction.

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1823.
Some particulars concerning the late King’s will were told me by the
Duke of York as we were going to Oatlands to shoot on Wednesday, the 8th
of January, 1823. The King was empowered by Act of Parliament to make a
will about the year 1766. In 1770 he made a will, by which he left all he had
to the Queen for her life, Buckingham House to the Duke of Clarence, some
property to the Duke of Kent, and to the Duke of York his second best
George and some other trifling remembrance. He considered the Duke of
York provided for by the Bishopric of Osnaburgh. Of this will three copies
were made; one was deposited in the German chancellerie in England, one
in Hanover, and the other it was believed the King kept himself. He
afterwards resolved to cancel this will, and two of the copies of it were
destroyed, the third still existing (I could not make out by what means—if
he told me I have forgotten—or which copy it was that survived). In 1810
the King made another will, but for various reasons he always put off
signing it, once or twice because he wished to make alterations in it; at
length he appointed a day to sign it, but when the Chancellor brought it one
of the witnesses was absent, and the signature was again postponed. Other
days were afterwards fixed for this purpose, but before the signature was
affixed the King was taken ill, and consequently the will never was signed.
After the death of the King the only good will, therefore, was his original
will of 1770, which was produced and read in the presence of the King, the
Chancellor, Vice-Chancellor, Lord Liverpool, the Duke of York, Adair, the
King’s solicitor (Spyer his name), and one or two others whom he
mentioned. Buckingham House, which had been left to the Duke of
Clarence, had been twice sold; the Queen and the Duke of Kent were dead;
the only legatee, therefore, was the Duke of York. Now arose a difficulty—
whether the property of the late King demised to the King or to the Crown.
The Chancellor said that the only person who GEORGE THE THIRD’S WILL. had
anything to say to the will was the Duke of York; but the Duke and the King
differed with regard to the right of inheritance, and the Duke, wishing to
avoid any dispute or discussion on the subject, begged to wash his hands of
the whole matter. The King conceives that the whole of the late King’s

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property devolves upon him personally, and not upon the Crown, and he has
consequently appropriated to himself the whole of the money and jewels.
The money did not amount to more than 120,000ℓ. So touchy is he about
pecuniary matters that his Ministers have never dared to remonstrate with
him, nor to tell him that he has no right so to act. The consequence is that he
has spent the money, and has taken to himself the jewels as his own private
property. The Duke thinks that he has no right thus to appropriate their
father’s property, but that it belongs to the Crown. The King has acted in a
like manner with regard to the Queen’s [Charlotte’s] jewels. She possessed
a great quantity, some of which had been given her by the late King on her
marriage, and the rest she had received in presents at different times. Those
which the late King had given her she conceived to belong to the Crown,
and left them back to the present King; the rest she left to her daughters.
The King has also appropriated the Queen’s [Caroline’s] jewels to himself,
and conceives that they are his undoubted private property. The Duke thinks
that the Ministers ought to have taken the opportunity of the coronation,
when a new crown was to be provided, to state to him the truth with regard
to the jewels, and to suggest that they should be converted to that purpose.
This, however, they dared not do, and so the matter remains. The King had
even a design of selling the library collected by the late King, but this he
was obliged to abandon, for the Ministers and the Royal Family must have
interfered to oppose so scandalous a transaction. It was therefore presented
to the British Museum.

January 25th, 1823
I came from Gorhambury with the Duke of Wellington last
Wednesday, and he was very communicative. He gave me a detailed history
of the late Congress, and told me many other things which I should be glad
to recollect.
After the two treaties of Paris and Vienna the Allied Powers agreed to
meet in Congress from time to time to arrange together any matters of
general interest which might arise, and to settle and discuss any differences
which might occur between any two Powers, a rule being laid down that the
affairs of no Power should be discussed without that Power being invited to

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the deliberation. The affairs of Naples were the first that attracted their
attention. Austria complained that the ramifications of the secret political
societies which had sprung up at Naples tended to disturb and revolutionise
the Italian possessions, and demanded the consent of the Allied Powers that
she should abate the nuisance. The cause was deemed sufficient to justify
her interference, and the events followed which are known. The Congress at
Verona was assembled for the purpose of taking into consideration the
affairs of Italy, and for discussing the propriety of relieving Naples from the
burden of that military force which had been maintained there for the
purpose of extinguishing the revolutionary spirit. At this Congress France
came forward and complained that the revolution which had taken place in
Spain menaced her internal tranquillity, and demanded the advice of
Congress as to the measures she should adopt. In this it will be observed
that the rule of every Power being called upon to attend a deliberation in
which its affairs were to be discussed was dispensed with. Austria, Russia,
and Prussia immediately replied that if she considered the Spanish
revolution to be dangerous to her repose, she would be justified in stifling
that revolution by force of arms, and offered to co-operate with her in the
attempt. England refused to give any answer to the demands of France, and
demanded in return what was her case against Spain. To this no answer was
given. The part then taken by the Duke was to deprecate hostilities, both
publicly as Plenipotentiary of England and privately in the various
conversations which he had with the Emperor of Russia, who seems to have
been the strongest THE CONGRESS OF VERONA. advocate for making war with
Spain. The imprudence of the Spaniards has afforded some colour to the
right assumed by their enemies of interfering with their affairs, for they
have upon several occasions attempted to foment the troubles which either
existed or threatened to appear both in Naples and Piedmont; and the
Emperor of Russia told the Duke that he had detected the Spanish Minister
at St. Petersburg in an attempt to corrupt his soldiers at the time of the
mutiny of the Guards, and that he had consequently sent him out of the
country. The Duke replied that if the Emperor of Russia had reasonable
grounds of complaint against Spain, he would be fully justified in declaring
war against her, and that he would advise him to do so if he could march
150,000 men into Spain; but in suffering three years to elapse without
making any complaint he had virtually renounced his right to complain, and
that it was unfair to rake up a forgotten grievance against Spain at a time

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when she was menaced by another Power upon other grounds. The Duke
said that the Emperor of Russia once talked to him of the practicability of
marching an army into Spain, and seemed to think he might do so. The
Duke said that the French Government would never allow it, when he said
he could send them by sea. The Duke told him it would take 2,000 ships.
One of the arguments of the Emperor of Russia was this: that constituted as
their Governments were (military Governments) it was impossible for them
to tolerate consistently with their own security any revolution which
originated in military insubordination.
After the Congress the Duke returned to Paris, and found that not only
Monsieur de Villèle was averse to war, but that the King, Monsieur, and the
Duke and Duchess of Angoulême were equally disinclined to commence
hostilities. His endeavours have been incessantly directed to confirm their
pacific dispositions, and to induce the Spanish Government to display
moderation in their language and conduct. I asked him if such were the
sentiments of the ruling powers in France upon what the question now
turned, and why all idea of war was not abandoned, since both parties were
pacifically inclined. He said[17] that France had been led into a dilemma by
a series of erroneous measures, that hers was a false position, that having
made the demands she had done to the Allied Powers, having held such
lofty language, and having made such a show of military preparation, her
difficulty was how to retract and retrace her steps with honour and credit to
herself; that she was a nation whose character depended in great measure
upon her military renown, and that it would reflect disgrace upon her to
have made such mighty preparations and assumed so peremptory a tone
without performing any action commensurate with the expectations she had
raised. He said that appearances certainly became more warlike, but that he
still hoped peace would be maintained; that if war ensued it would be
entered into contrary to the interests and inclinations of all the parties
concerned, and that it would have been brought about by a succession of
circumstances over which they had no control; that it was impossible for
two armies to remain for a length of time so near each other without mutual
incursions being made, insults and injuries exchanged, which must
inevitably end in a state of warfare and hostility; that the recall of the
French Minister from Madrid would contribute to this result, for both in the
DUKE OF WELLINGTON ON FRENCH INTERVENTION. Cortes and the Andalusian Junta

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expressions would be uttered offensive to the French Government, and
misrepresentations would be made which would have the effect of
exasperating the parties and of widening the breach; and that there being no
agent of France at Madrid to furnish explanations and destroy the effect of
the misrepresentations, there would be a constant correspondence between
Madrid and Paris, in which vent would be given to all the angry feelings
that ever existed.[18] The Duke advised that no answer should be given to
the notes of the three Powers, nor to that of the French Minister. Had the
Spanish Government declined to take notice of the notes, they would have
imposed upon them the difficulty of taking the next steps. However, he
admitted that the answer to the French note was very moderate. There is no
statesman in Spain. There are some eloquent men in the Cortes, particularly
Torreno and Arguelles. Torreno is the ablest man, but he has injured his
character by peculation. The state of Spain is such that the most violent and
turbulent possess the greatest share of influence. Portugal is in a state of
greater intellectual improvement, and amongst the Portuguese there are
some men of ability—Palmella, and another whose name I have forgotten.
But Spain is not only deficient in men of education and talent to direct her
councils, but she has no army, and not one officer of capacity. Not one was
formed by the late war, for such were their vanity and ignorance that they
would learn nothing from the English.
[17] All this reasoning appears to me exceedingly false, and I do not understand a Government
being compelled to adopt measures adverse to her inclinations and injurious to her interests by
circumstances which she could not control. A wise and vigorous statesman would break through such
a web as that in which the French politics are entangled, and I cannot comprehend how the honour of
a nation is to be supported by an obstinate adherence to measures which she had been led
incautiously to adopt, and which were afterwards found to militate with her true interests. If the
councils of France were directed by a Minister of a vigorous and independent character—if such a
Minister were to come forward and state frankly to Spain, and announce to all Europe, that he would
not invade the liberty and the rights of Spain, and instantly put a stop to all hostile preparations,
finding arguments for an act of magnanimity, moderation, and justice, which are never wanting when
some deed of lawless ambition and violent aggression is to be perpetrated, would not such a man
acquire a more solid reputation than he who sacrifices to some punctilio the interests of his own
country and the happiness and repose of millions, how great soever might be the success with which
his efforts should be crowned?—[C.C.G.]
[18] These notes were addressed by the respective Courts to their own Ministers at Madrid. The
Spanish Minister for Foreign Affairs need not have taken any notice of them whatever according to
the forms of diplomatic communication.—[C.C.G.]

Upon one occasion only the Spaniards gained a victory, the day on
which St. Sebastian was stormed. Soult attacked a Spanish corps

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commanded by General Freyre. When the Duke was informed of the attack
he hastened to the scene of action and placed two British divisions in
reserve, to support the Spaniards, but did not allow them to come into
action. He found the Spaniards running away as fast as they could. He
asked them where they were going. They said they were taking off the
wounded. He immediately sent and ordered the gates of Irun, to which they
were flying, to be shut against them, and sent to Freyre to desire he would
rally his men. This was done, and they sustained the attack of the French;
but General Freyre sent to the Duke to beg he would let his divisions
support him, as he could not maintain himself much longer. The Duke said
to Freyre’s aide-de-camp, ‘If I let a single man fire, the English will swear
they gained the victory, and he had much better do it all himself; besides,
look through my glass, and you will see the French are retreating.’ This was
the case, for a violent storm of rain had occurred, and the French, who had
crossed a river, finding that it began to swell, and that their bridges were in
danger of being carried away, had begun to retreat. The Spaniards
maintained their position, but the Duke said he believed they owed it to the
storm more than to their own resolution.
The Duke wrote to Alava some time ago (three years, I think) and
desired him to advise the King from him, now that he had accepted the
Constitution, to throw himself upon his Ministers. He has not written to
Alava, nor Alava to him, for three years, because he knows that all letters
are opened and read. He says the King of Spain is not clever, but cunning;
his manners are good. He is in correspondence with the Allied Sovereigns,
and is playing false. He has the means of corresponding, because, although
his household is composed of men friendly to the revolution, there is no
restraint upon his person, and he sees whomsoever he pleases. In case of
war the French would obtain complete success. He conceives their object
would be to obtain possession of the person of the King, to overthrow the
Constitution, establish the King upon the throne with a Constitution perhaps
similar to the French Charte, and to establish an army of occupation to
maintain such an order of things till he should be able to form an army of
his own.
The Duke saw the King of France twice while he was in Paris. He was
much broken, but talked of living twelve or DUKE OF WELLINGTON’S RECOLLECTIONS.
fourteen years. The second time he was in better health and spirits than the

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first time. Madame du Cayla sent to the Duke to ask him to call upon her;
he went twice and she was not at home. At his levee the King said, ‘Il y a
une personne qui regrette beaucoup de n’avoir pas eu le plaisir de vous
voir.’ The courtiers told him the King meant Madame du C. He went the
same evening and saw her. She is a fine woman, about forty, and agreeable.
She sees the King every Wednesday; he writes notes and verses to her, and
he has given her a great deal of money. He has built a house for her, and
given her a terre near St. Denis which is valued at 1,500,000 francs. The
King likes M. de Villèle[19] exceedingly. He has occasionally talked to the
Duke of Bonaparte. One day, when they were standing together at the
window which looks upon the garden of the Tuileries, he said, ‘One day
Bonaparte was standing here with ——, and he said, pointing to the
Chamber of Deputies, “Vous voyez ce bâtiment là: si je les démuselais, je
serais détrôné.” I said, “The King has given them freedom of debate, and I
think I go on very well with it.” ’
[19] Villèle was a lieutenant in the navy, and afterwards went to the Isle of France, where he was
a member of the council (or whatever the legislation was called). At the revolution he returned to
France and lived with his family near Toulouse, became a member of the departmental body, and
subsequently Mayor of Toulouse; he was afterwards elected a Member of the Chamber, when he
distinguished himself by his talents for debate, and became one of the chiefs of the Ultra party. He
was a member of the Duc de Richelieu’s Government, which he soon quitted, and was one of the
principal instruments in overturning it. He anticipates a long administration.—[C.C.G.]

The Duke said he had been struck down by a musket shot whilst
reconnoitring the enemy as they were retreating in the Pyrenees. The people
round him thought he was killed, but he got up directly. Alava was wounded
a few minutes before him, and Major Brooke nearly at the same time. He is
of opinion that Massena was the best French general to whom he was ever
opposed.
He said that Bonaparte had not the patience requisite for defensive
operations. His last campaign (before the capture of Paris) was very
brilliant, probably the ablest of all his performances. The Duke is of opinion
that if he had possessed greater patience he would have succeeded in
compelling the Allies to retreat; but they had adopted so judicious a system
of defence that he was foiled in the impetuous attacks he made upon them,
and after a partial failure which he met with, when he attacked Blücher at
Laon and Craon, he got tired of pursuing a course which afforded no great
results, and leaving a strong body under Marmont to watch Blücher, he

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threw himself into the rear of the Grand Army. The march upon Paris
entirely disconcerted him and finished the war. The Allies could not have
maintained themselves much longer, and had he continued to keep his force
concentrated, and to carry it as occasion required against one or other of the
two armies, the Duke thinks he must eventually have forced them to retreat,
and that their retreat would have been a difficult operation. The British
army could not have reached the scene of operations for two months. The
Allies did not dare attack Napoleon; if he had himself come up he should
certainly have attacked him, for his army was the best that ever existed.
The Duke added that he traced back the present politics of France to
their chagrin at the dissolution of the Family Compact. At the general
pacification the Duke, on the part of the English Government, insisted upon
that treaty not being renewed, and made a journey to Madrid for the
purpose of determining the Spanish Government. Talleyrand and the King
of France made great efforts to induce the Duke to desist from his
opposition to the renewal of the treaty, and both were exceedingly mortified
at being unable to shake the determination of our Government on this point.
The Duke of Wellington told me that Knighton[20] managed the King’s
affairs very well, that he was getting him out of debt very quickly, and that
the Ministers were DUKE OF YORK’S ANECDOTES OF GEORGE IV. well satisfied with
him. When he was appointed to the situation he now holds, he called at
Apsley House to announce it to the Duke, and expressed his hopes that the
appointment would not displease him. The Duke said that he could have no
objection, but he would give him a piece of advice he trusted he would take
in good part: this was, that he would confine himself to the discharge of the
functions belonging to his own situation, and that he would not in any way
interfere with the Government; that as long as he should so conduct himself
he would go on very well, but that if ever he should meddle with the
concerns of the Ministers he would give them such offence that they would
not suffer him to remain in a situation which he should thus abuse.
Knighton thanked him very much for his advice, and promised to conform
himself to it. It seems that he told this to the King, for the next time the
Duke saw him the King said he had heard the advice which he had given to
‘a person,’ and that he might depend upon that person’s following it
entirely.

Page 94

[20] [Sir William Knighton, who was originally the King’s physician, had been appointed
Keeper of the King’s Privy Seal and Receiver of the Duchies of Lancaster and Cornwall; but in fact
he acted as the King’s Private Secretary, and it was to the duties of that delicate office that the Duke’s
advice applied.]

November 29th, 1823
In the various conversations which I have with the Duke of York he
continually tells me a variety of facts more or less curious, sometimes
relating to politics, but more frequently concerning the affairs of the Royal
Family, that I have neglected to note down at the time, and I generally
forget them afterwards. I must acknowledge, however, that they do not
interest me so much as they would many other people. I have not much
taste for Court gossip. Another reason, too, is the difficulty of making a
clear narrative out of his confused communications. The principal anecdotes
he has told me have been, as well as I recollect, relative to the Duchess of
Gloucester’s marriage, to the Duke of Cumberland’s marriage and all the
dissensions to which that event gave rise in the Royal Family, the
differences between the King and Prince Leopold, and other trifling matters
which I have forgotten. In all of these histories the King acted a part, in
which his bad temper, bad judgment, falseness, and duplicity were equally
conspicuous. I think it is not possible for any man to have a worse opinion
of another than the Duke has of the King. From various instances of
eccentricities I am persuaded that the King is subject to occasional
impressions which produce effects like insanity; that if they continue to
increase he will end by being decidedly mad. The last thing which I have
heard was at Euston the other day. I went into the Duke’s room, and found
him writing; he got up and told me that he was thrown into a great dilemma
by the conduct of the King, who had behaved extremely ill to him. The
matter which I could collect was this:—Upon the disturbances breaking out
in the West Indies it became necessary to send off some troops as quickly as
possible. In order to make the necessary arrangements without delay, the
Duke made various dispositions, a part of which consisted in the removal of
the regiment on guard at Windsor and the substitution of another in its
place. Orders were expedited to carry this arrangement into effect, and at
the same time he communicated to the King what he had done and desired
his sanction to the arrangement. The Duke’s orders were already in

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operation, when he received a letter from the King to say that he liked the
regiment which was at Windsor, and that it should not move; and in
consequence of this fancy the whole business was at a standstill. Thus he
thought proper to trifle with the interests of the country to gratify his own
childish caprice. He gave, too, great offence to the Duke, in hindering his
dispositions from being carried into effect, at the same time.
The Duke told me another thing which he thought was indirectly
connected with the first. It seems one of the people about the Court had
ordered some furniture to be removed from Cumberland Lodge to Windsor
(something for the Chapel). Stephenson, as head of the Board of Works, on
being informed this was done, wrote to the man to know by what orders he
had done it. The man showed the letter to the King, who was exceedingly
incensed, and wrote to Lord Liverpool to say that Stephenson’s letter was
insulting to him, and desired he might be turned out. After some
correspondence on the subject Lord Liverpool persuaded the King to
reinstate CHARACTER OF LORD TITCHFIELD. him; but he was obliged to make all
sorts of apologies and excuses for having done what it was his duty to do.
Stephenson is a friend and servant of the Duke’s, and in his ill-humour he
tried to revenge himself upon the Duke as well as on Stephenson, and he
thwarted the Duke in his military arrangements. What made his conduct the
less excusable was that it was important that these things should be done
quickly, and as the Duke was out of town a correspondence became
necessary, by which great delay would be caused.

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1824.

March 6th, 1824
Poor Titchfield[21] died last night at eight o’clock, having lingered for
some days in a state which gave to his family alternate hopes and fears. He
was better till yesterday afternoon, when he was removed into another
room; soon after this he grew weaker, and at eight o’clock he expired. He is
a great loss to his family, of which he was by much the cleverest member,
and he was well calculated to fill the situation in which fortune had placed
him. His talents were certainly of a superior description, but their efficacy
was counteracted by the eccentricity of his habits, the indolence of his
mind, and his vacillating and uncertain disposition. He was, however,
occasionally capable of intense application, and competent to make himself
master of any subject he thought fit to grapple with; his mind was
reflecting, combining, and argumentative, but he had no imagination, and to
passion, ‘the sanguine credulity of youth, and the fervent glow of
enthusiasm’ he was an entire stranger. He never had any taste for society,
and attached himself early to politics. He started in life with an enthusiastic
admiration for Mr. Canning, but after two or three years, being thrown into
the society of many of his political opponents, he began to entertain
opinions very different from those of Mr. Canning. He never, however,
enlisted under any political banner, and his great object seemed to be to
prove to the world that he belonged to no party. After Mr. Canning came
into office he took the earliest opportunity of informing his constituents that
he was unfettered by any political connection with him. Titchfield was
never at a public school, but was educated at home. Such an education—the
most injudicious which can be given to a young man destined to fill a great
situation—was not without its effect upon his mind. The superior
indulgences and the early habits of authority and power in which he was
brought up, without receiving correction from any of those levelling
circumstances which are incidental to public schools, threw a shade of
selfishness and reserve over his character, which time, the commerce of the

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world, and a naturally kind disposition had latterly done much to correct.
The subject to which he had principally devoted his attention was political
economy, and in the discussions in the House of Commons upon currency
he had particularly distinguished himself. Whatever he attempted he had
done so well that great expectations were entertained of his future success,
and the indications he had given of talent will ensure to his memory a
lasting reputation. He has died at a moment the most fortunate, perhaps, for
his fame as a public man; but his loss to his family is very great, and by
them will be long felt and deeply lamented.
[21] [William Henry, Marquis of Titchfield, eldest son of the fourth Duke of Portland.]

[An interval of two years occurs in the Journal, during which Mr.
Greville wrote nothing.]

Page 98

CHAPTER III.
The Panic of 1825 — Death of Emperor Alexander — The Duke
of Wellington’s Embassy to St. Petersburg — Robinson
Chancellor of the Exchequer — Small Notes Bill — Death of
Arthur de Ros — George III. and Lord Bute — Illness and
Death of the Duke of York — His Funeral — Lord Liverpool
struck with Paralysis — Rundell’s Fortune and Will — Copley
and Philpots — The Cottage — Formation of Mr. Canning’s
Administration — Secession of the Tories — The Whigs join
him — Dinner at the Royal Lodge — Difficulties of Canning’s
Government — Duke of Wellington visits the King —
Canning’s Death — Anecdotes of Mr. Canning — Recognition
of South American States — His Industry — The Duke of
Wellington on Canning — Lord Goderich’s Administration
formed — The Difficulty about Herries — Position of the Whigs
— The King’s letter to Herries — Peel and George IV. —
Interview of Lord Lansdowne with the King — Weakness of the
Government — First Resignation of Lord Goderich — Lord
Harrowby declines the Premiership — Lord Goderich returns —
Brougham and Rogers — Conversation and Character of
Brougham — Lord Goderich’s Ministry dissolved — Cause of
its Dissolution — Hostility of Herries — Position of Huskisson
and his Friends — Herries and Huskisson both join the New
Cabinet.

Page 99

1826.

February 12th, 1826
The last three months have been remarkable for the panic in the money
market, which lasted for a week or ten days—that is, was at its height for
that time. The causes of it had been brewing for some months before, and
he must be a sanguine and sagacious politician who shall predict the
termination of its effects. There is now no panic, but the greatest alarm, and
every prospect of great distress, and long continuation of it. The state of the
City, and the terror of all the bankers and merchants, as well as of all
owners of property, is not to be conceived but by those who witnessed it.
This critical period drew forth many examples of great and confiding
liberality, as well as some of a very opposite character. Men of great wealth
and parsimonious habits came and placed their whole fortunes at the
disposal of their bankers in order to support their credit. For many days the
evil continued to augment so rapidly, and the demands upon the Bank were
so great and increasing; that a Bank restriction was expected by everyone.
So determined, however, were Ministers against this measure, that rather
than yield to it they suffered the Bank to run the greatest risk of stopping;
for on the evening of the day on which the alarm was at its worst there were
only 8,000 sovereigns left in the till.[1] The next day gold was poured in,
and from that time things got better.
[1] [Mr. Baring (Lord Ashburton) stated in his pamphlet on this crisis, ‘The gold of the Bank
was drained to within a very few thousand pounds, for although the public returns showed a result
rather less scandalous, a certain Saturday night closed with nothing worth mentioning. It was then
that the Bank applied to Lord Liverpool for an Order in Council to suspend cash payment. A
conference took place between Lord Liverpool, Mr. Huskisson, the governor of the Bank, and Mr.
Baring. The suspension of cash payments was happily averted, chiefly as it was said by the accidental
discovery of a box of one-pound Bank of England notes, to the amount of a million and a half, which
had never been issued, and which the public were content to receive.’ Mr. Tooke, however, states in
his ‘History of Prices’ (Continuation, vol. iv. p. 342) that the lowest amount of the banking treasure
was on the 24th of December, 1825: Coin, 426,000 ℓ .; bullion, 601,000 ℓ .: in all, 1,027,000 ℓ . The
passage in the text refers of course to the banking department only.]

Page 100

In the midst of all this the Emperor Alexander died, and after a short
period of doubt concerning his successor it was found that Nicholas was to
mount the throne. The first act of the Russian Government was to
communicate to ours their resolution no longer to delay a recognition of the
independence of Greece, and their determination to support that measure if
necessary by force of arms. They invited us to co-operate in this object, but
intimated that if we were not disposed to join them they should undertake it
alone. The Duke of Wellington is gone to Russia, ostensibly to compliment
the new Emperor, but really to concert measures with the Russian Ministry
for carrying this measure into effect; and it is remarkable that the Duke,
upon taking leave of his friends and family to set out on this journey,
FINANCIAL DIFFICULTIES. was deeply affected, as if he had some presentiment that
he should never return. Alava told me that he had frequently taken leave of
him, when both expected that they should never meet again, yet neither
upon that occasion nor upon any other in the course of the seventeen years
that he has known him did he ever see him so moved. Lady Burghersh said
that when he took leave of her the tears ran down his cheeks; he was also
deeply affected when he parted from his mother.
In the discussion which took place on Friday night in the House of
Commons, when the Chancellor of the Exchequer[2] opened his financial
plan, he is deemed to have made a very bad speech, and Huskisson a very
good one. Robinson is probably unequal to the present difficult conjuncture;
a fair and candid man, and an excellent Minister in days of calm and
sunshine, but not endowed with either capacity or experience for these
stormy times, besides being disqualified for vigorous measures by the
remissness and timidity of his character. However, though it is the peculiar
province of the Finance Minister to find a remedy for these disorders, he
may well be excused for not doing that which the united wisdom of the
country seems unequal to accomplish. All men agree as to the existence of
the evil, and all differ as to the causes of it and the measures which will
effect its removal; not one man seems to see his way clearly through the
difficulty; however, ‘time and the hour runs through the roughest day,’ and
probably the country will what is called right itself, and then great credit
will be given to somebody or other who deserves none.
[2] [Right Hon. Frederick John Robinson, Chancellor of the Exchequer from January 1823 to
April 1827; afterwards Viscount Goderich and Earl of Ripon.]

Page 101

February 20th, 1826
The Small Notes Bill,[3] as it is called, lowered the funds and increased
the alarm among the monied men. Numerous were the complaints of the
inefficacy of the measure for present relief, numerous the predictions of the
ultimate impossibility of carrying it into effect. In the City, however, on
Thursday afternoon things began to improve; there was more confidence
and cheerfulness. On Friday evening the Chancellor of the Exchequer
comes down to the House and surprises everyone by abandoning one part of
his plan, and authorising the Bank to issue one pound notes till October.
The immediate cause of this alteration was a communication which Hudson
Gurney made to the Chancellor, that if he persisted in his Bill he should
send up 500,000ℓ. which he had in Bank of England notes and change them
for sovereigns, and that all country bankers would follow his example.
From this he found that it would be impossible to persist in his original
plan. The great evil now is a want of circulating medium, and as the
immediate effect of the measure would be another run upon the Bank, and
that probably all the gold drawn from it would disappear—for men now are
anxious to hoard gold—this evil would be increased tenfold. The whole
country is in distress from the absence of circulating medium for the
common purposes of life; no country banker will issue notes, for they are
instantly returned upon his hands and exchanged for gold. The circulation
of country notes being generally confined within a very limited extent, the
holders of them can easily present them for payment. The circulation of a
quantity of Bank of England paper will relieve the immediate distress
arising from this necessity, and the difficulty of exchanging them for gold
will ensure the continuance of their circulation. When men find that they
must take notes, and that gold is not to be had without so much pain and
trouble, they will be contented to take the notes to which they have been
accustomed, and will MR. ROBINSON’S SMALL NOTES BILL. think the paper of their
own bankers as good as that of the Bank of England, besides the advantage
of being less exposed to the losses arising from forgery. This is the
argument of the opponents of Robinson’s Bill. It is generally thought that
the Ministers have disgraced themselves by their precipitation and by the
crudeness of their measures. Hitherto they have done nothing towards
removing the present distress, or satisfying the minds of men, but the
contrary. Robinson is obviously unequal to the present crisis. His mind is

Page 102

not sufficiently enlarged, nor does he seem to have any distinct ideas upon
the subject; he is fighting in the dark.
[3] [On the 10th of February the Chancellor of the Exchequer moved in Committee ‘That all
promissory notes payable on demand issued by licensed Bankers in England or by the Bank of
England for less than 5 ℓ . shall not be issued or circulated beyond the 5th of April next.’ Mr.
Huskisson made an able speech in support of the proposal, showing that the inflation produced by the
small note paper currency had greatly contributed to cause and aggravate the panic (‘Huskisson’s
Speeches,’ vol. ii. p. 444). Mr. Baring, afterwards Lord Ashburton, opposed the restriction of small
notes, but with small success. The period allowed for the contraction of their circulation was,
however, extended to the 10th of October.]

Everybody knows that Huskisson is the real author of the finance
measure of Government, and there can be no greater anomaly than that of a
Chancellor of the Exchequer who is obliged to propose and defend
measures of which another Minister is the real though not the apparent
author. The funds rose nearly two per cent, upon this alteration in the Bill
before the House, on account of the prospect of an abundance of money.
Still it is thought that nothing will be sufficient to relieve the present
distress but an issue of Exchequer bills. So great and absorbing is the
interest which the present discussions excite that all men are become
political economists and financiers, and everybody is obliged to have an
opinion.

February 24th, 1826
I have been since yesterday the spectator of a melancholy scene and
engaged in a sad office. Arthur de Ros,[4] who was taken ill a fortnight ago,
became worse on Monday night. After this time he was scarcely ever
sensible, and yesterday, at a quarter-past two, he expired. After they had
given up all hopes they were induced again to suffer them to revive from
the disappearance of the most unfavourable symptoms; but this was only
the weakness which preceded dissolution, and a few moments after his
brother Henry had told me that he did not despair he came and said that all
was over, and a little while after Rose announced that he had ceased to
breathe. He died tranquilly, and did not suffer at all. I never saw such a
distress. His father, mother, sisters, William, and his wife went immediately
to Boyle Farm. Henry would have followed them, but I persuaded him to go
home. He went first to Mrs. ——, to whom Arthur had been attached for ten

Page 103

years, and after a painful interview with her he came to his own house; he
has since been too ill to move. I have never seen grief so strong and
concentrated as his; it has exhausted his body and overwhelmed his mind,
and though I knew him to have been much attached to his brother, I did not
believe him capable of feelings so acute as those which he has evinced.
William is much more calm and resigned, a strange, unaccountable thing
considering the characters of the two men—the one so indifferent, and with
feelings so apparently deadened to the affections of this world, and the
other with a sensibility so morbid, and such acute susceptibility and strong
feelings, that the least thing affects him more deeply than very serious
concerns do other men.
[4] [Colonel the Hon. Arthur John Hill de Ros, born 1793, died February 1826. He was aide-de-
camp to his Royal Highness the Duke of York.]

Arthur was an excellent creature, and will be regretted by the Duke
and deeply lamented by all who knew him intimately. His talents were not
brilliant, but he had good sound sense, and was besides modest, diligent,
honest, and trustworthy in a high degree. There breathed not a more
honourable man, and as his ambition did not extend beyond the sphere in
which fortune had placed him and he was contented with his destiny, but for
this illness his career might have been long and prosperous. I went last
night to sleep at the house, that it might not appear to have been entirely
abandoned to the care of servants. The only wish he expressed was that
Francis Russell should succeed him, which I have no doubt he will do.

February 25th, 1826
Received a letter from the Duke of York (to whom I had written to
announce poor Arthur’s death) expressive of the greatest regret for his loss.

March 2nd, 1826
I am just come from poor Arthur’s funeral. There were present William
de Ros, the two Hills, Craufurd, Torrens, Taylor, Francis Russell, Campbell,
and B. Paget. The Duke appointed Francis his aide-de-camp directly.

Page 104

July 2nd, 1826
Four months since I have written anything.
ILLNESS OF THE DUKE OF YORK.
The Duke of York has been dangerously ill, and it is still doubtful whether
he will recover. I was with him at Frogmore before Ascot; we went with the
King to see Windsor Castle. His Majesty has since been very much annoyed
about the Duke, cried a great deal when he heard how bad he was, and has
been twice to see him.
The elections have been particularly violent and the contests very
numerous. A batch of Peers has been made; everybody cries out against
Charles Ellis’s peerage[5] (Lord Seaford); he has no property, and is of no
family, and his son is already a Peer. The King, when these other Peers were
created, asked Canning to name somebody. He said he had nobody about
whom he was interested but Charles Ellis, and the King consenting to his
elevation, it was all arranged without his knowledge. However, it is thought
very ridiculous, and that he would have done much better to have declined
it. Clanricarde, too, being made a Marquis and an English Peer is thought
an indirect exertion of Canning’s influence.
[5] [Charles Rose Ellis, created Baron Seaford in 1826. Lord Seaford was the father of Charles
Augustus Ellis, who succeeded to the title of Lord Howard de Walden through his mother, Elizabeth
Catherine Caroline Hervey, granddaughter of the fourth Earl of Bristol, who was the last Baron
Howard de Walden, as heir general of Thomas, first Baron. The son of Lord Seaford had married a
daughter of the fifth Duke of Portland, and was consequently a connection of Mr. Canning.]

London, December 14th, 1826
The Duke of York very ill; has been at the point of death several times
from his legs mortifying. Canning’s speech the night before last was most
brilliant; much more cheered by the Opposition than by his own friends. He
is thought to have been imprudent, and he gave offence to his colleagues by
the concluding sentence of his reply, when he said, ‘I called into existence
the new world to redress the balance of the old.’ The I was not relished.
Brougham’s compliment to Canning was magnificent, and he was loudly
cheered by Peel; altogether it was a fine display.
Yesterday the Duke [of York] told me that the late King [George III.]
was walking with him one day at Kew, and his Majesty said, ‘The world

Page 105

tells many lies, and here is one instance. I am said to have held frequent
communication with Lord Bute, and the last time I ever saw or spoke to him
was in that pavilion in the year 1764.’ The King went over to breakfast with
his mother, the Princess Dowager, and she took him aside and said, ‘There
is somebody here who wishes very much to speak to you.’ ‘Who is it?’
‘Lord Bute.’ ‘Good God, mamma! how could you bring him here? It is
impossible for me to hold any communication with Lord Bute in this
manner.’ However, he did see him, when Lord Bute made a violent attack
upon him for having abandoned and neglected him. The King replied that
he could not, in justice to his Ministers, hold any communication with him
unknown to them, when Lord Bute said that he would never see the King
again. The King became angry in his turn, and said, ‘Then, my Lord, be it
so, and remember from henceforth we never meet again.’ And from that day
he never beheld Lord Bute or had any communication with him.

Page 106

1827.

Friday night, January 5th, 1827, half-past one
I am just come from taking my last look at the poor Duke.[6] He
expired at twenty minutes after nine. Since eleven o’clock last night the
physicians never left his room. He never moved, and they repeatedly
thought that life was extinct, but it was not till that hour that they found it
was all over. The Duke of Sussex and Stephenson were in the next room;
Taylor, Torrens and Dighton, Armstrong and I were upstairs. Armstrong and
I had been there about half an hour when they came and whispered
something to Dighton and called out Taylor. Dighton told Torrens and they
went out; immediately after Taylor came up, and told us it was all over and
begged we would go downstairs. We went directly into the room. The Duke
was sitting exactly as at the DEATH OF THE DUKE OF YORK. moment he died, in his
great arm-chair, dressed in his grey dressing-gown, his head inclined
against the side of the chair, his hands lying before him, and looking as if he
were in a deep and quiet sleep. Not a vestige of pain was perceptible on his
countenance, which, except being thinner, was exactly such as I have seen it
a hundred times during his life. In fact, he had not suffered at all, and had
expired with all the ease and tranquillity which the serenity of his
countenance betokened. Nothing about or around him had the semblance of
death; it was all like quiet repose, and it was not without a melancholy
satisfaction we saw such evident signs of the tranquillity of his last
moments.
[6] [His Royal Highness the Duke of York, second son of King George III., died on the 5th of
January, 1827.]

In about a quarter of an hour Taylor and Halford set off to Windsor to
inform the King; the Duke of Sussex went to the Princess Sophia; letters
were written to all the Cabinet Ministers, to the Archbishop of Canterbury,
the Bishop of London, and the Speaker of the House of Commons. Orders
were given that the great bell of St. Paul’s should toll. The servants were

Page 107

then admitted to see the Duke as he lay. Worley[7] was very much affected
at the sight, and one woman, the wife of Kendal, cried bitterly, and I saw
her stoop down and kiss his hand. The room was then cleared and
surrendered to the Lord Chamberlain’s people. Thus did I take my last leave
of the poor Duke. I have been the minister and associate of his pleasures
and amusements for some years, I have lived in his intimacy and
experienced his kindness, and am glad that I was present at this last sad
occasion to pay my poor tribute of respect and attachment to his remains.
[7] [Worley was the Duke’s stud-groom.]

After the October meetings of 1825 the Duke came to town, not in
good health. At the end of November the Duchess of Rutland died, which
was a great blow to him, and probably made him worse. A short time after
her funeral he went to Belvoir, when the Duke of Rutland took him down
into the vault, where he stayed an hour and returned excessively chilled.
From that moment he grew worse till the time of the Ascot races. We went
to Frogmore two days before the party began, and for those two days he led
a quiet life. When the party was assembled he lived as he had been used to
do, going to the races, sitting at table, and playing for hours at whist. He
slept wretchedly and seldom went to bed, but passed the greater part of the
night walking about the room or dozing in his chair. I used to go into his
room, which was next to mine, the moment I was out of bed, and generally
found him in his dressing gown, looking harassed and ill. He showed me his
legs, which were always swelled. Still he went on till the last day of the
party, and when we got to town he was so ill that M‘Gregor, who came to
him that night, thought him in danger. From that moment the illness was
established which has ended in his death. They began by putting him
through several courses of mercury, and they sent him to the Greenwoods’
villa at Brompton. Here he continued to receive everybody who called on
him, and went out in his carriage every day. They always said that he was
getting better. In August he went to Brighton, and soon after his arrival his
legs mortified. It was then that Taylor went down to him and told him that
he was in great and immediate danger. He received the information with
perfect composure. The gangrene, however, was stopped, and he came to
town to the Duke of Rutland’s house. The dropsy continued to make rapid
progress, and some time in September he was tapped; twenty-two pints of
water were drawn. from him. This operation was kept secret, for the Duke

Page 108

did not like that his situation should be known. He recovered from the
operation and regained his strength; no more water formed in his body, but
there was still water in his system, and a constant discharge from his legs,
which occasioned him great pain and made wounds which were always
open and extending. These wounds again produced gangrene, but they
always contrived to stop its progress, and put the legs in a healing
condition. As often, however, as the legs began to heal the water began to
rise, and the medicines that were given to expel the water drove it again
ILLNESS OF THE DUKE OF YORK. to the legs, through which it made its way, making
fresh sores and entailing fresh mortification. In this way he went on, the
strength of his constitution still supporting him, till towards the end of
December, when the constitution could resist no longer; his appetite totally
failed, and with loss of appetite came entire prostration of strength, and in
short a complete break-up. From that moment it was obvious that his
recovery was impossible, but he continued to struggle till the 5th of
January, although he had tasted no solid food whatever for above a
fortnight. At all the different periods at which his state was critical it was
always made known to him, and he received the intimation with invariable
firmness and composure. He said that he enjoyed life but was not afraid to
die. But though perfectly acquainted with his own danger he never could
bear that other people should be informed of it, and so far from
acknowledging it, he always told his friends that he was better, and his
language was invariably that of a man who did not doubt of his recovery.
He was particularly anxious that nobody should know he had been tapped,
and it was not till many weeks after that operation that he talked of it one
day to me. Up to the last moment that I saw him (the day week before he
died) he told me he was better, and he desired me to tell Montrond, who had
called upon him, that he would see him as soon as he was well enough. He
held the same language to everybody until the day previous to his death,
when he sent for Taylor and Stephenson into his room. He could then hardly
speak, but he took hold of Stephenson’s hand, and looking at Taylor, said, ‘I
am now dying.’ He tried to articulate something else, but he was
unintelligible. About a fortnight before his death, soon after his appetite
began to fail, Taylor had to announce to him his danger. He received the
intelligence with the same coolness he had before shown, but it was not
without difficulty that he admitted the conviction. A few days after he
received the Sacrament, which was administered by the Bishop of London,

Page 109

in the presence of Sir H. Halford, Taylor, and the Princess Sophia. He was
then very weak, but calm and collected during the ceremony. When it was
over he shook hands with the men and kissed the Princess. The King saw
him the next day, but he was in a lethargic state nearly the whole time that
he was there. For many days before his death the physicians thought that
every day must close the scene, but such was the natural strength of his
constitution that he evinced a tenacity of life and maintained a struggle
which astonished them all, and of which they unanimously declared that
their practice had never furnished them with a similar instance. It seems that
three years ago, when he was very unwell, M‘Gregor told him that unless
he was more prudent he would certainly be afflicted with dropsy. He had
been subject to spasms, and in consequence of them was averse to lie down
in bed, and to this pernicious habit and that of sitting for many hours
together at table, or at cards, they attribute the origin, of the complaint
which has terminated so fatally. Had he been a more docile patient, from the
amazing vigour of his constitution he might have looked forward to a very
long life. His sufferings in the course of his illness have been very great,
and almost without cessation. Nothing could exceed the patience and
courage with which he endured them; his serenity and good humour were
never disturbed, and he never uttered a word or complaint, except
occasionally at the length of his confinement. He not only saw all the
visitors who chose to call upon him, even those with whom he was not in
habits of intimacy, but he transacted the whole of his public business every
day, and every paper was laid before him and every detail gone through as
if he had been in perfect health. This he continued to within a few days of
his death, till his strength was so entirely exhausted that he lay in a state of
almost complete insensibility. It is remarkable that from the beginning to
the end of his illness I never saw him that he did not tell me that he was a
great deal better, and he never wrote to me without assuring me that he was
going on as well as possible.

February 12th, 1827
The Duke of York was no sooner dead than the public press began to
attack him, and while those FUNERAL OF THE DUKE OF YORK. private virtues were
not denied him for which he had always been conspicuous, they enlarged in

Page 110

a strain of severe invective against his careless and expensive habits, his
addiction to gambling; and above all they raked up the old story of Mrs.
Clark and the investigation of 1809, and published many of his letters and
all the disgusting details of that unfortunate affair, and that in a manner
calculated to throw discredit on his character. The newspapers, however,
soon found they had made a mistake, that this course was not congenial to
public feeling, and from that moment their columns have been filled with
panegyrics upon his public services and his private virtues. The King
ordered that the funeral should be public and magnificent; all the details of
the ceremonial were arranged by himself. He showed great feeling about his
brother and exceeding kindness in providing for his servants, whom the
Duke was himself unable to provide for. He gave 6,000ℓ. to pay immediate
expenses and took many of the old servants into his own service. There
appeared a few days after the Duke’s death an infamous forgery, purporting
to be a letter or declaration written by him a short time before his death
(principally upon the subject of the Catholic question), which, however,
was disavowed by Taylor, but not till after many thousand copies had been
sold. I dare say many people believe still that he was the author of this
pamphlet. All his effects either have been or will be sold by auction. The
funeral took place a fortnight after his death. Nothing could be managed
worse than it was, and except the appearance of the soldiers in the chapel,
which was extremely fine, the spectacle was by no means imposing; the
cold was intense, and it is only marvellous that more persons did not suffer
from it. As it is the Bishop of Lincoln has died of the effects of it; Canning
has been dangerously ill, and is still very unwell; and the Dukes of
Wellington and Montrose were both very seriously unwell for some days
after. The King was very angry when he heard how miserably the ceremony
had been performed. I have been this evening to hear Peel move the address
of condolence to the King, which Canning would have done if he had been
here; and it is a pity he was not, for Peel did it very ill: it was poor and
jejune, and undistinguished by eloquence or the appearance of deep feeling.
I was greatly disappointed, for I expected to hear a worthier tribute to his
merits. Canning was very anxious to have been here to have performed this
duty himself. The letters which he wrote to the Royal Family abroad
announcing the event of his death were admirable and gave great
satisfaction to the King.

Page 111

February 21st, 1827
Three days ago Lord Liverpool was seized with an apoplectic or
paralytic attack. The moment it was known every sort of speculation was
afloat as to the probable changes this event would make in the Ministry. It
was remarked how little anybody appeared to care about the man; whether
this indifference reflects most upon the world or upon him, I do not pretend
to say. A report was generally circulated that the Duke of Cumberland was
dead, which was believed, but turns out to be untrue.
Old Rundell (of the house of Rundell and Bridge, the great
silversmiths and jewellers) died last week, and appointed Robarts one of his
executors. Robarts called on me this morning, and told me he had been
yesterday to Doctors’ Commons to prove the will. Rundell was eighty years
old, and died worth between 1,400,000ℓ. and 1,500,000ℓ., the greater part
of which is vested in the funds. He has left the bulk of his property to his
great-nephew, a man of the name of Neal, who is residuary legatee and will
inherit 900,000ℓ.—this Mr. Neal had taken care of him for the last fourteen
years—to a woman who had lived with him many years, and in whose
house he died, and to two natural sons by her he only left 5,000ℓ. apiece.
The old man began the world without a guinea, became in the course of
time partner in that house during its most flourishing period, and by steady
gains and continual parsimony amassed this enormous wealth. He never
spent anything and lived wretchedly. During the panic he came to Robarts,
who was his banker, and offered to place at his disposal any sum he might
require. When the executors went to prove the will, they INTERVIEW WITH
GEORGE IV. were told at Doctors’ Commons that it was the largest sum that
ever had been registered there.

March 13th, 1827
Since the debate on the Catholic question there has been a great
expectation that Canning would resign. Many of his friends think he made
an imprudent speech that night, and if he had not lashed the Master of the
Rolls so severely that he would have got more votes.[8] The truth is he was
mightily nettled by Dr. Philpots’ pamphlet and at Copley making a speech
taken entirely from it. The Master protested that he had no idea of offending

Page 112

Canning, and until he got up had no notion that Canning had taken offence
at his speech. The question was lost by accident; several pro-Catholics were
suddenly taken ill or arrived too late for the division, and the election
petitions went all against them.
[8] [Sir John Copley was then Master of the Rolls, but this occurrence did not prevent Canning
from making him Lord Chancellor on the 2nd of May following, when he was raised to the peerage
with the title of Baron Lyndhurst.]

March 16th, 1827
On Wednesday at the Council at St. James’s the King desired I would
go down to Windsor, that he might speak to me. I went down on Thursday
to the Cottage, and, after waiting two hours and a half, was ushered into his
bedroom. I found him sitting at a round table near his bed, in a douillette,
and in pretty good health and spirits. He talked about his horses and told
some old stories, lamented the death of the Duke of York, which he said
was a loss to him such as no one could conceive, and that he felt it every
instant. He kept me about an hour, was very civil, and then dismissed me.
Canning made an apology to the Master of the Rolls for his severity in
the debate on the Catholic question.

March 25th, 1827
When the King heard of Lord Liverpool’s illness he was in great
agitation. He sent for Peel in the night, and told him he must see the Duke
of Wellington. Peel endeavoured to dissuade him, but in vain. The Duke
was sent for, but he refused to go. He sent the King word that he had
nothing to say to him, and that it would not be fair to his colleagues that he
should see the King at such a moment. Consequently he saw none of his
Ministers till he saw Canning, who was taken to the Pavilion in a chair one
day. There have been a variety of reports about Lord Liverpool’s successor
and a new Administration, as always happens on such occasions.

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The King is in very good health and excellent spirits. He had a large
party at the Lodge last week, and Canning, the Granvilles, Carlisles,
Lievens, are going there next week. Mount Charles told me yesterday that
next week he thinks something must be decided, and he told me what I did
not know, that the King’s opinions on the Catholic question are just the
same as those of the Duke of York, and equally strong. This is the great
difficulty which Canning has to get over with him. He does not much like
Canning, though C. does everything he can to gratify and please him.
Mount Charles told me that his mother (Lady Conyngham) has strong
opinions in favour of the Catholics, but that she never talks to the King on
the subject, nor indeed upon politics at all.

April 13th, 1827
The King came to town a week ago. From the moment of his arrival
every hour produced a fresh report about the Administration; every day the
new appointment was expected to be declared, and the Ministers Peel, Lord
Bathurst, Duke of Wellington, and Canning were successively designated as
the persons chosen to form a Government. He had no sooner arrived than he
saw his Ministers seriatim, but nothing could induce him to come to any
determination. He wavered and doubted, and to his confidants, with whom
he could bluster and talk big, he expressed in no measured terms his
detestation of Liberal principles, and especially of Catholic Emancipation.
He begged his Ministers to stand by him, and day after day elapsed and
nothing was settled. In the meantime London was alive with reports; and
the on dit of the day, repeated with every variety of circumstance and with
the usual positiveness of entire ignorance, would fill a volume. Time MR.
CANNING’S ADMINISTRATION. crept on, and Parliament was to adjourn on the 13th
(this day). On the 9th Canning went to the King, and, after a long audience,
he came away without anything being settled. On the 10th he went again,
and told his Majesty that longer delay was impossible, and that he must
come to some determination. On the evening of the 10th we received a note
from Lord Bathurst, saying that the King had desired Canning to form an
Administration on the principles of that of which Lord Liverpool had been
at the head. This was not generally known that evening. Last night it was
said that the Duke of Wellington would not remain in the new Cabinet, and

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we heard that Peel had resigned. To-day everything will probably be
known. Canning and his friends say that the King has behaved admirably in
this business, and they affect to consider his appointment unconditional and
unfettered; but this is by no means the view which the others take of it. The
King, however, has acted in such a way that all his Ministers (except those
whose interest it now is to laud him to the skies) are disgusted with his
doubting, wavering, uncertain conduct, so weak in action and so
intemperate in language. It is now supposed that he has been influenced by
Knighton in coming to this determination, in which he certainly has acted in
a manner quite at variance with his professions and the whole tenor of his
language. It must be owned, if this is so, that although Canning has gained
his point—has got the power into his hands and is nominally Prime
Minister—no man ever took office under more humiliating circumstances
or was placed in a more difficult and uncertain situation; indeed, a greater
anomaly cannot be imagined. Canning, disliked by the King, opposed by
the aristocracy and the nation, and unsupported by the Parliament, is
appointed Prime Minister. The King, irresolute and uncertain, is induced to
nominate a man whose principles and opinions he fears and dislikes by the
advice and influence of his physician. The measure which is of paramount
importance Canning cannot carry as he desires and believes to be necessary;
he must form a Cabinet full of disunion, and he is doubtful what support he
can expect from the old adherents of Government, by whom he is abhorred.
The writ was moved for Canning yesterday by Wynne, ‘he having
accepted the office of First Commissioner of the Treasury.’ This morning
the Chancellor, Peel, Lord Westmoreland, and the Duke of Wellington
resigned. Lord Bathurst immediately wrote to Canning, saying that, finding
they had resigned, he could not avoid sending in his resignation also; that it
was unnecessary to enter into explanations, which could only tend to widen
the breach such a separation must make. Afterwards Lord Melville
resigned, although well with Canning and a friend to the Catholics; he said
he could not desert the men with whom he had acted for so many years. The
Whigs seem greatly elated at the breaking up of this Administration. The
Tories evidently think Canning is in a scrape, that he will not be able to
form a Government, and that the power will return into their hands. How
Canning and his friends feel is not yet known, nor what the King feels at
being deserted by half his Cabinet. The opinion prevalent with the

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Opposition is that Canning has been deserted by his colleagues, who
induced him to accept the Government by promising their support and
adherence, and that when he had taken the final step they left him to make
the arrangements and fill up their places as he could. This, however, is not
the case. I saw George Dawson[9] this evening, and he assured me that
Canning had received ample notice from all these Ministers that they would
not hold office under him, and that if he was appointed Prime Minister they
should resign. Peel told him this three weeks ago: ‘that he could not, with a
due regard to his own character, continue in office under a man whose
opinions are so diametrically opposite to his own upon the most important
question; that he had no views of personal ambition, but MR. CANNING’S
ADMINISTRATION. that as the administration of Ireland was his peculiar province
it was impossible they should not come into constant collision upon that
subject.’ They had no objection to act with Canning, always considering
him as one of the most influential members of the Cabinet, but they could
not hold offices under him. He said that he could not imagine how Canning
with his knowledge could take such a step, and it is evident that he has no
idea of his being able to carry on the Government at all.
[9] The Right Hon. George Robert Dawson was Secretary of the Treasury from 1828 to 1830,
and was made a Privy Councillor on resigning that office. He married in 1816 Mary, the eldest
daughter of the first Sir Robert Peel, and was consequently the brother-in-law of Mr. Peel, the
Minister.

April 30th, 1827
From the period of Canning’s acceptance of office up to Thursday
night there have been continual negotiations between Canning and the
Whigs, and it is not possible to imagine greater curiosity and more intense
anxiety than have been exhibited during the interval. The violence and
confusion of parties have been extreme—the new Ministers furious with
their old colleagues, the ex-Ministers equally indignant with those they left
behind them.

May 12th, 1827

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It is necessary to go back to the first formation of the Government.[10]
As soon as Canning had got the King’s commission he began to negotiate,
and the Whigs readily enough entered into negotiation. The friends of
Ministers resigned one after another, and for some time it seemed very
doubtful whether Canning would be able to form a Government at all. His
first measure was, however, very judicious—that of appointing the Duke of
Clarence Lord High Admiral—nothing served so much to disconcert his
opponents. The negotiations went on (through the Duke of Devonshire) up
to the end of the Easter recess, when Lord Lansdowne came to town, and
after much delay it was announced that the Whigs would support the new
Government, but that none of them would take office immediately. The
places were all filled up, but the appointments were understood to be only
provisional, and the Duke of Portland, Lord Dudley, and Sturges Bourne
were considered to hold their offices until Lord Lansdowne, Lord Carlisle,
and Tierney should join the Cabinet. With this arrangement Parliament met,
and the rage which had been accumulating in the minds of the seceders
soon burst forth in a furious attack on this provisional arrangement. The
Whigs have nearly in a body joined Government, with the exception of
Lord Grey in the House of Lords, who in a speech full of eloquence
attacked Canning’s political life and character and announced his intention
of remaining neuter. In the meantime it was understood that there was a
reason for Lord Lansdowne not joining Government immediately, which
was not to be made public till that event took place, and this secret was only
imparted to a very few people; it was even concealed from Brougham and
the leaders of the party. The secret, however, turns out to be this: Lord
Lansdowne insisted upon modelling the Irish Government as he pleased—
that is, in putting a Lord-Lieutenant, a Chancellor, and a Secretary there
favourable to the Catholic claims, to which the King would not consent.
Canning entreated Lord Lansdowne to have patience, to allow time to
elapse, during which the King’s scruples might be removed, and promised
that every endeavour should be made to reconcile the King to the
arrangement Lord Lansdowne desired. After much discussion it was
resolved that Lord Lansdowne should support Government, but that he
should not take office until this point was settled; and so the matter has
remained.
[10] [The Cabinet formed by Mr. Canning was thus constituted:—
Mr. Canning, First Lord of the Treasury and Chancellor of the Exchequer.

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Lord Lyndhurst, Lord High Chancellor.
Earl of Harrowby, Lord President of the Council.
Duke of Portland, Lord Privy Seal, and afterwards the Earl of Carlisle.
Lord Dudley, Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs.
Lord Goderich, Secretary of State for Colonial Affairs and War.
Mr. Sturges Bourne, Secretary of State for the Home Department (this office was shortly
afterwards transferred to the Marquis of Lansdowne)
Mr. Huskisson, President of the Board of Trade.
Mr. Wynn, President of the Board of Control.
Lord Bexley, Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster.
Mr. Tierney, Master of the Mint.
The Duke of Clarence was named Lord High Admiral.
The Office of Commander-in-Chief remained vacant during the Administration of Mr. Canning.
This Administration lasted ninety-eight days, until the death of Mr. Canning.]

June 3rd, 1827
Soon after writing this Lord Lansdowne came MR. CANNING’S
ADMINISTRATION. into the Cabinet, together with Tierney and Lord Carlisle,
M‘Donald and Abercromby also taking places. They found so many
objections to the unsettled state of the Cabinet, and the provisional
arrangements had brought so much odium and ridicule upon the
Government, that it was thought necessary to settle this matter without loss
of time, but Lord Lansdowne would not consent to take the Home Office
except upon the conditions on which he had before insisted. He therefore
came into the Cabinet without a place. But it is quite evident that the
present state of affairs is far from satisfactory; the Government is not
established on a firm or secure basis, and the members of it are not
altogether satisfied with each other or themselves. Lord Lansdowne
particularly does not feel comfortable where he is, and does not think that
he has been well treated by his own friends. It seems that when first
overtures were made to him by Canning he called a meeting of his friends
at Lansdowne House, at which he declared his own sentiments and the
conditions on which he would join the Government. The persons there
assembled unanimously agreed with him, but a few days after a meeting
was called at Brooks’s which was more numerously attended, and there
certain resolutions were agreed upon which were not in conformity with the
opinions expressed in Lansdowne House, and these resolutions were
communicated to Canning as the sentiments of the great body of the Whigs,

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but without the same being imparted to Lord Lansdowne, who was then at
Bowood (this fact I had last night from Duncannon[11] and Hobhouse[12]).
Matters, however, went on quietly enough till the other night, when the
Government was beat in the House of Lords upon the clause in the Corn
Bill, and this defeat it is obvious has enraged and embarrassed them to the
greatest degree.[13] Duncannon, who is entirely in the confidence of the
moderate Whig party, says that it is impossible the thing can go on in this
way; three Lords in the King’s household (Errol, Macclesfield, and
Delawarr) voted against the Bill, and if they are not dismissed it will be
such a proof of the feebleness of Government as will disgust all the Whigs
and make their support very lukewarm.[14] Burdett, who was more active
and zealous than anybody in bringing about the Coalition, is very much
disgusted already, and there appears altogether such a want of confidence
and unanimity among them as must lead to the dissolution of the
Government unless Canning can by some vigorous measures establish his
credit and convince the world of his strength. In Ireland the Chancellor[15]
has refused to put the Great Seal to the appointment of Doherty as Solicitor-
General. It is supposed that he will take this occasion to resign, and it will
then be seen what part the King will take in the nomination of his successor.
The King sees numbers of people, talks incessantly, and does nothing.
Canning was with him yesterday evening, and the result of his audience will
be very interesting, because it will appear whether he has insisted upon, and
the King consented to, the dismissal of the refractory Lords, as well as what
he will do about the Irish Chancellor. Government are indignant with the
Duke of Wellington and the other ex-Ministers for opposing the Corn Bill,
which they had been themselves (when in office) instrumental in framing,
as well as for the use which the Duke made of Huskisson’s letter.
[11] [John William, Viscount Duncannon, afterwards fourth Earl of Bessborough.]
[12] [Mr. John Cam Hobhouse, M.P. for Westminster, afterwards Sir John C. Hobhouse, Bart.,
raised to the peerage in 1851 by the title of Baron Broughton de Giffard.]
[13] [It was with reference to this defeat that Canning said soon afterwards in the House of
Commons that ‘the Duke of Wellington had been made the instrument of others for their own
particular views,’ and he pledged himself to bring in another Corn Bill in the following session. But
these were almost the last words uttered by Canning in Parliament.]
[14] [Lord Delawarr resigned of his own accord, Lord Errol was obliged to resign, and Lord
Macclesfield came over and voted with Government on the second reading of the Corn Bill.]

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[15] [Lord Manners was still Lord Chancellor of Ireland, as he had been since 1807. Mr.
Doherty was made Solicitor-General for Ireland on the 18th of June.]

June 17th, 1827
I was at the Royal Lodge for one night last THE ROYAL LODGE. Wednesday;
about thirty people sat down to dinner, and the company was changed
nearly every day. It is a delightful place to live in, but the rooms are too low
and too small for very large parties. Nothing can exceed the luxury of the
internal arrangements; the King was very well and in excellent spirits, but
very weak in his knees and could not walk without difficulty. The evening
passed off tolerably, owing to the Tyrolese, whom Esterhazy brought down
to amuse the King, and he was so pleased with them that he made them sing
and dance before him the whole evening; the women kissed his face and the
men his hand, and he talked to them in German. Though this evening went
off well enough, it is clear that nothing would be more insupportable than to
live at this Court; the dulness must be excessive, and the people who
compose his habitual society are the most insipid and uninteresting that can
be found. As for Lady Conyngham, she looks bored to death, and she never
speaks, never appears to have one word to say to the King, who, however,
talks himself without ceasing. Canning came the day I went away, and was
very well received by his Majesty; he looked dreadfully ill. The only thing
which interested me was the account I heard from Francis Conyngham
about Knighton. He is seldom there, and when he comes scarcely stays
above a night or two. But he governs everything about the house, and
cannot endure anybody who is likely to dispute his empire. The King
certainly does not like him, is always happier when he is away, and never
presses him to stay or to return. When he is there he has constant access to
the King at all times and whenever he pleases. He is on bad terms with
Mount Charles, he bullies Lord Conyngham, and he is barely civil to Lady
C.; he knows that Mount Charles is independent of him, and that the King
likes him and admits him continually and familiarly to his presence, and of
this it seems that he is jealous. I was more struck with one word which
dropped from him than with all he told me of Sir W. Knighton. While the
Tyrolese were dancing and singing, and there was a sort of gay uproar going
on, with which the King was greatly delighted, he said, ‘I would give ten

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guineas to see Knighton walk into the room now,’ as if it were some master
who was absent, and who should suddenly return and find his family and
servants merrymaking in his absence; it indicates a strange sort of power
possessed by him.
The King was very civil to the Duke of Dorset, and repeatedly told
him that what had passed would make no difference in their private
friendship. In the meantime the Corn Bill has been thrown out, and I think
political animosities are full as strong as ever, though they have taken rather
a sulky than a violent tone. I had a long conversation with Duncannon
yesterday, who is fully possessed of the sentiments of all the Whigs, and by
what he says it is clear that they are extremely dissatisfied; they want
Canning to display his power by some signal act of authority, and to show
that he is really supported cordially by the King. The opposite party are
persuaded that the King is secretly inclined to them and averse to his
present Government, and this opinion obtains more or less with the public
in consequence of the impunity with which Canning has been braved by the
Chancellor in Ireland. The appointment of Doherty as Solicitor-General has
never yet passed the Great Seal, and Lord Manners refuses to sanction it; he
has likewise refused to put Sir Patrick Bellew (a Catholic) in the
Commission of the Peace, though he is a respectable man and he has been
strongly pressed to do it even by Protestants. This refusal so disgusted
Duncannon that he was very near withdrawing his name from the
Commission, and if he had his example would have been followed by many
others, but Lord Spencer dissuaded him from doing so. Lord Grey is in such
a state of irritation that he will hardly speak to any of his old friends, and he
declares that he will never set his foot in Brooks’s again. All this is the more
extraordinary, and the vivacity of his temper the more unaccountable,
because he has constantly declined taking an active part in politics when
invited to do so for a long time past; and whenever Duncannon has asked
his advice or consulted his opinions or wishes, he has invariably referred
him to Lord Lansdowne as HOSTILITY OF LORD GREY. the person whom his friends
were to look upon as their leader, asserting that he had withdrawn himself
from public life and would have no more concern with politics. More than
this, when first overtures were made by Canning to the Whigs, it was the
unanimous opinion of all those who have since joined the Government that
Lord Lansdowne and his friends could not join an Administration of which

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Peel was to be a member (for at that time the resignation of Peel was not
contemplated as a probable event), and this opinion was warmly combated
by Lord Grey, who contended that there was no reason why they should not
coalesce with Canning and Peel. What induced him to alter his opinion so
decidedly and to become so bitter an enemy to the present arrangements
does not appear, unless it is to be attributed to a feeling of pique and
resentment at not having been more consulted, or that overtures were not
made to himself. The pretext he took for declaring himself was the
appointment of Copley to be Chancellor, when he said that it was
impossible to support a Government which had made such an appointment.

July 5th, 1827
The session is over, and has been short but violent enough. There is
apparently a majority against the Ministry in the House of Lords, though
they seem safe in the House of Commons. All depends upon Canning’s
prudence and firmness during the recess. As to the King, he seems desirous
of living a quiet life and disposing of all patronage; public measures and
public men are equally indifferent to him. The Duke of Wellington, who
knows him well, says he does not care a farthing about the Catholic
question, but he does not like to depart from the example of his father and
the Duke of York, to which they owed so much of their popularity. His
conduct is entirely influenced by selfish considerations, and he neither
knows nor cares what measures the exigencies of the country demand. The
present state of parties is so extraordinary that it cannot last, and it remains
to be seen whether Lord Grey and the other Whigs will reunite themselves
to the main body and support Canning’s Government, or whether they will
join with the Tories in their efforts to overturn it. Lord Grey’s temper,
irritated by the attacks which have been made on him, seems likely to urge
him to the latter alternative.

July 25th, 1827
Canning is gone to Chiswick, where he has had the lumbago, and
could not go to the Council last week. He is very unwell, and in a very

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precarious state, I think. I was at the Council last Monday week; it was held
for the appointment of Lords Lansdowne and Carlisle, Lord Lansdowne
having consented to take the Home Office, and Lord Carlisle the Privy Seal;
the only Cabinet Ministers present were the four who changed places. It
was the first time the King had given Lord Lansdowne an audience, but I
believe he was very civil to him. The King gave him an account of the Duke
of Buckingham’s visit to him (from Dropmore), the result of which was that
he sent his proxy to Lord Goderich, but not with a good grace.
The Duke of Wellington has been to the Lodge, and great is the
speculation thereupon.[16] It is fiercely debated whether he went by
invitation or not, and how long he stayed. He was only with the King
twenty minutes, for so Prince Leopold, who was there, told Lambton, who
told me. I don’t know if he was invited or no. The King has taken from
Prince Leopold the plate that was given, or, as they now say, lent to him, on
his marriage. The Chamberlain sent to Sir E. Gardiner for it in the Prince’s
absence, and he refused to give it up without his Royal Highness’s orders,
but the Prince, as soon as he heard of it, ordered it to be sent to the
Chamberlain.

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[16] [The causes and consequences of this visit, which was by invitation from the King, are
related in the Duke of Wellington’s ‘Correspondence,’ New Series, vol. iv. p. 63 et seq.]

The Irish Chancellor has given way about Doherty’s appointment, and
put the Great Seal to it before his own resignation. He did it with a good
grace, Lord Lansdowne told me.
We went all over the Castle the other day; his Majesty will not let
anybody see it now. I don’t think enough is effected for the enormous sums
expended, though it is a fine DEATH OF CANNING. and will be a good house; still,
how far (as a palace) from Versailles, St. Cloud, and the other palaces in
France! The external terrace has spoilt the old one, and is altogether a
frightful excrescence, and should never have been made.

August 9th, 1827
Canning died yesterday morning at four o’clock. His danger was only
announced on Sunday night, though it had existed from the preceding
Wednesday. When he saw the King on Monday his Majesty told him he
looked very ill, and he replied that ‘he did not know what was the matter
with him, but that he was ill all over.’ Nothing could exceed the
consternation caused by the announcement of his danger and the despair of
his colleagues. From the first there was no hope. He was aware of his
danger, and said, ‘It is hard upon the King to have to fight the battle over
again.’ The Cabinet met on Monday, and great unanimity prevailed among
them. They all agreed to stand by each other in the event of his death. As
soon as it happened Lord Lansdowne went down to Windsor and saw the
King. His Majesty spoke with great affection of Canning, and said
something of the difficulties in which he was again involved. Lord L.
replied that he had come down, as it was his official duty to do, to announce
to him the event; that nothing could be further from his wish or intention
than to elicit from him any opinion as to the future, and he begged his
Majesty would not say one word upon that subject. The King said that the
first thing he should do would be to show every mark of respect to the
memory and attachment to the person of Canning, and that he should
therefore send for those of his Ministers who had been the most closely
connected with him in public and private life. He sent immediately for Lord

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Goderich and Sturges Bourne, who went down to him when Lord
Lansdowne returned.
Yesterday I saw some letters from Mr. Arbuthnot[17] (Gosh) giving an
account of the break-up of the old Government, and of the reasons by which
they had been influenced in resigning. They were three in number, very
violent and indignant, defending the Duke and attacking Canning, but they
contained little more than has since appeared and been made public. The
only fact that appeared to me of consequence was this: that Peel, though he
had resigned on different grounds, was indignant at the way in which the
Duke had been treated, and was resolved never to take office till full
reparation had been made to him; that Lord Bathurst had begged Gosh (Mr.
Arbuthnot) not to mention this, as it might do harm. The next letter was a
long tirade with a great deal of wrath and indignation, such as might be
expected. He says that they knew Canning was negotiating with the Whigs
while he was pretending that he wished the old Government to go on; and
that in the course of the negotiation with his old colleagues he offered Peel,
if he would stay with him, to recall the pro-Catholic Lord-Lieutenant and
send a Protestant. Peel wanted the Duke to give up the army and take the
Treasury, which he would not hear of. He was miserable at the idea, and
opposed it so strongly that they could not press it upon him. However, the
Peers—meaning all the Lords who had made such a stir—applied to the
Duke to put himself at the head of the Government, but he hardly sent an
answer to their application—he would not hear of it.
[17] [Right Hon. Charles Arbuthnot, the most confidential friend of the Duke of Wellington,
with whom he lived. He was known in society by the nickname of ‘Gosh,’ by which he is frequently
described in these Journals.]

I may here introduce some anecdotes of Canning told me by Lord
George Bentinck, his private secretary:—
Some time after they had been in office (after Lord Londonderry’s
death) they found in a drawer, which apparently had been forgotten or
overlooked, some papers, which were despatches and copies of
correspondence between Lord Castlereagh and Lord Stewart. These
despatches were very curious, and more particularly so after his attack last
year on Canning for misappropriating the secret service money, for they
gave an account of his own employment of the secret service money in

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getting Italian witnesses for the Queen’s trial. There was likewise an
account of the discovery ANECDOTES OF CANNING. Stewart had made of the
treachery of an office messenger, who had for a long time carried all his
despatches to Metternich before he took them to England, and Lord Stewart
says, ‘I tremble when I think of the risk which my despatches have incurred
of coming before the House of Commons, as there were letters of Lord
Londonderry’s written expressly “to throw dust in the eyes of the
Parliament.” ’ These were his own expressions, and he said, ‘You will
understand this and know what to say to Metternich.’ In fact, while Lord
Castlereagh was obliged to pretend to disapprove of the Continental system
of the Holy Alliance he secretly gave Metternich every assurance of his
private concurrence, and it was not till long after Mr. Canning’s accession
that Metternich could be persuaded of his sincerity in opposing their views,
always fancying that he was obliged to act a part as his predecessor had
done to keep the House of Commons quiet.
From the moment Mr. Canning came into the Cabinet he laboured to
accomplish the recognition of the South American Republics, but all the
Cabinet were against him except Lord Liverpool, and the King would not
hear of it. The King was supported in his opposition by the Duke of
Wellington and by Lieven and Esterhazy, whom he used to have with him;
and to them he inveighed against Canning for pressing this measure. The
Duke of Wellington and those Ambassadors persuaded his Majesty that if he
consented it would produce a quarrel between him and his allies, and
involve him in inextricable difficulties. Canning, who knew all this, wrote
to Mrs. Canning in terms of great bitterness, and said if the King did not
take care he would not let him see these Ambassadors except in his
presence, and added, ‘I can tell his Majesty that his father would never have
acted in such a manner.’ At length after a long contest, in the course of
which Peel came round to him, he resolved to carry the measure or resign.
After a battle in the Cabinet which lasted three hours, and from which he
came heated, exhausted, and indignant, he prepared a memorial to the King,
and Lord Liverpool another, in which they tendered their resignations,
alleging at length their reasons, and this they submitted to the Cabinet the
following day. When their colleagues found they were in earnest they
unanimously surrendered, and agreed upon a declaration to the King that
they would all resign unless the measure was adopted. This communication

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was made to his Majesty by the Duke of Wellington, who told him that he
found Canning was in earnest, and that the Government could not go on
without him, and he must give way. The King accordingly gave way, but
with a very ill grace.[18] When he saw Canning he received him very ill, and
in a letter to him signifying his assent to the measure he said that it must be
his business to have it carried into effect in the best way it would admit of.
Canning took fire at the ungracious tone of the letter, and wrote for answer
that he feared he was not honoured with that confidence which it was
necessary that the King should have in his Ministers, and that his Majesty
had better dismiss him at once. The King sent no answer, but a gracious
message, assuring him he had mistaken his letter, and desiring he would
come to the Cottage, when he received him very well. From that time he
grew in favour, for when the King found that none of the evils predicted of
this measure had come to pass, and how it raised the reputation of his
Minister, he liked it very well, and Canning dexterously gave him all the
praise of it, so that he soon fancied it had originated with himself, and
became equally satisfied with himself and with Canning.
[18] [The memorial of Mr. Canning on this subject, the counter-opinions of the Duke of
Wellington, and the King’s minute upon them have been published in the second volume of the New
Series of the ‘Duke of Wellington’s Correspondence,’ pp. 354, 364, and 402.]

Canning concealed nothing from Mrs. Canning, nor from Charles
Ellis. When absent from Mrs. C. he wrote everything to her in the greatest
detail. Canning’s industry was such that he never left a moment
unemployed, and such was the clearness of his head that he could address
himself almost at the same time to several different subjects with perfect
precision and without the least embarrassment. He wrote very fast, but not
fast enough for his mind, composing WELLINGTON’S OPINION OF CANNING. much
quicker than he could commit his ideas to paper. He could not bear to
dictate, because nobody could write fast enough for him; but on one
occasion, when he had the gout in his hand and could not write, he stood by
the fire and dictated at the same time a despatch on Greek affairs to George
Bentinck and one on South American politics to Howard de Walden, each
writing as fast as he could, while he turned from one to the other without
hesitation or embarrassment.

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August 10th, 1827
The Cabinet sat yesterday morning and again at night. It is generally
believed that Lord Goderich will succeed Canning at the Treasury, and Lord
Lansdowne has no objection to serve under him. The Tories were full of
hope and joy at first, but in proportion as they were elated at first so were
they dejected yesterday, when they found that the King sent for Lord
Goderich and not for the Duke of Wellington. He never seems to have
thought of the Duke at all. It will all be out to-day or to-morrow. The Tories
may now give the King up. They have taken leave of office, except Peel,
who will come in some day or other.
[They remained out of office five months. What a prophecy!—January
28th, 1828.]
The Duke of Wellington talked of Canning the other day a great deal at
my mother’s. He said his talents were astonishing, his compositions
admirable, that he possessed the art of saying exactly what was necessary
and passing over those topics on which it was not advisable to touch, his
fertility and resources inexhaustible. He thought him the finest speaker he
had ever heard; though he prided himself extremely upon his compositions,
he would patiently endure any criticisms upon such papers as he submitted
for the consideration of the Cabinet, and would allow them to be altered in
any way that was suggested; he (the Duke) particularly had often ‘cut and
hacked’ his papers, and Canning never made the least objection, but was
always ready to adopt the suggestions of his colleagues. It was not so,
however, in conversation and discussion. Any difference of opinion or
dissent from his views threw him into ungovernable rage, and on such
occasions he flew out with a violence which, the Duke said, had often
compelled him to be silent that he might not be involved in bitter personal
altercation. He said that Canning was usually very silent in the Cabinet,
seldom spoke at all, but when he did he maintained his opinions with
extraordinary tenacity. He said that he was one of the idlest of men. This I
do not believe, for I have always heard that he saw everything and did
everything himself. Not a despatch was received that he did not read, nor
one written that he did not dictate or correct.

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August 20th, 1827
There was a Council at Windsor Castle on Friday last, which was a
very curious scene. What I saw puzzled me very much till matters have
since been explained to me.
On Tuesday morning Drummond, Lord Goderich’s private secretary,
came to me at my office and told me the Council would be held on Friday,
and that Herries was to be appointed Chancellor of the Exchequer and was
going down that day with Lord Goderich to Windsor. Accordingly when I
arrived at the Castle I found Herries in the room, and I asked him if he was
to take an oath as Chancellor of the Exchequer, because there was none in
the oath-book for Chancellor, but one for the Treasurer of the Exchequer,
and whether he was to take that. He said he did not know, upon which I
asked Wynn if he knew. He did not; when we all agreed to wait till Lord
Bexley came,[19] and enquire of him what he had done. When Lord Bexley
arrived we asked him, and he said that Herries would only be sworn then as
a Privy Councillor, and must take the oath of Chancellor of Exchequer in
the Court of Exchequer. Shortly after we walked round the Castle, and some
conversation occurring about the elevation of the Round Tower, which
Wyattville was anxious to accomplish, Herries said to him, ‘But it is my
business now to ask you what you will do it for, how much it will cost. Will
you do it for 10,000ℓ.?’ COUNCIL AT WINDSOR. Wyattville said, ‘You must give
me 15,000ℓ.,’ so that I could have no doubt that Herries was Chancellor of
the Exchequer. In the meantime all the Ministers arrived, the whole Cabinet
being present except the Chancellor and Lord Anglesey, who arrived
afterwards. As soon as Lord Goderich and Lord Lansdowne were come they
retired into the next room and had a long conference. Shortly afterwards the
King came, when Lord Goderich went into his room. He stayed some time,
when the Duke of Portland went in, then Herries. When Lord Goderich
came out he had another conference with Lord Lansdowne, at the end of
which he went again to the King. He came out, and at the end of three-
quarters of an hour went a third time, and after him Herries a second time,
and with him Lord Bexley. Another very animated conversation took place
between Lord Lansdowne and Lord Goderich, when the latter went to the
King a fourth time, and after him Lord Lansdowne, Goderich whispering
something to him as he went in. Previous to this I remarked a conference
between Lord Lansdowne, Goderich, and Carlisle, after which Carlisle took

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Tierney into the next room, evidently communicating what had passed.
Something was clearly going on, but I could not make out what. I fancied
that Lord Lansdowne insisted upon Lord Holland’s being in the Cabinet.
Yesterday, however, I discovered that it was all about Herries and his
appointment. The appointment was the King’s, with whom Herries had
ingratiated himself by transacting some of his pecuniary business, and
getting odds and ends for him out of droits, &c. The King then named him,
and Goderich made no objection. Herries came to Windsor, not doubting
but that he was to receive the seals, which in fact Goderich brought down
with him on purpose. Lord Lansdowne, however, declared that he would
not consent to the appointment, and hence arose all the conferences and
audiences for which I could not account at the time. The Whigs dislike
Herries’ politics, and still more do they object to the King taking upon
himself to nominate the members of the Government without consulting his
Ministers. They are determined to resist this nomination, and the
consequence of Lord Lansdowne’s remonstrance was the suspension at least
of the appointment. Such is the state of affairs, and not a very agreeable
state certainly.
[19] [Lord Bexley as Mr. Vansittart had been Chancellor of the Exchequer, from 1812 to 1823.]

The Whigs are satisfied of the candour, fairness, and plain dealing of
Goderich, but dissatisfied with his facility and want of firmness. The King
is grasping at power and patronage, and wants to take advantage of the
weakness of the Government and their apparent dependence upon him to
exercise all the authority which ought to belong to the Ministers. The Whigs
are not easy in their places. They feel that they are not treated with the
consideration to which they are entitled. But they have got too far to recede,
and they evidently are alarmed lest, if they exasperate the King, he should
accept their resignation and form a Government by a junta of the old Tories
with the rest of his Administration, by which their exclusion would be made
certain and perpetual. I find that the Duke of Portland was likewise named
by the King himself. They do not object to the Duke, on the contrary, but
they object greatly to his being so appointed. All this I have from Tierney,
who added, if the Duke had been proposed to the King by Lord Goderich,
not a member of the Cabinet would have objected, but they don’t like his
being named by the King. At the end of the Council, on Friday, Lord
Anglesey arrived, having travelled day and night, and brought with him the

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Duke of Wellington’s acceptance of the command of the army. Altogether it
was a day of unusual interest, and unlike the dulness of ordinary Councils.

September 1st, 1827
Since the Council on the 17th the affair of Herries has still been going
on. It appears that when Goderich went into the King (at the Council) to
announce to him the objection that had been raised, his Majesty was very
angry, angry at having been so committed and at being obliged to give up a
nomination he liked. Herries naturally felt himself very ill treated and
nettled by the attacks upon him in the newspapers. He has ever since
insisted upon being admitted to the Cabinet as the only MR. HERRIES’
APPOINTMENT. thing which could afford due reparation to his honour, and
prove that he had not been rejected for the reasons which had been
assigned. This the Ministers opposed, and it was at length determined that
this matter should rest till Huskisson’s return. Huskisson agreed with his
colleagues about Herries, went to the King, and spoke to him openly and
firmly on the subject. The King consented that another arrangement should
be made; the one proposed was, that Sturges Bourne should be Chancellor
of the Exchequer, and Herries take the Woods and Forests without a seat in
the Cabinet. Herries, who had constantly refused to accede to any
arrangement by which he was to be excluded from the Cabinet, said he
would consider of it; but in the meantime Sturges took fright, and refused to
take the Exchequer. In vain Huskisson offered to take all the trouble on
himself, and they all tried to persuade Sturges. He would not do it, and so
this arrangement fell to the ground. They went again to the King yesterday
to report progress and state to him what had occurred. When they came
back (Goderich, Huskisson, Sturges, Herries, and the Chancellor) Goderich
wrote a long letter to Lord Lansdowne, and he is to go to the King again
this evening.
I had a long conversation with Tierney yesterday, and I find that the
Whig Ministers are sick to death of their situation and anxious to resign.
They think they are not treated with the consideration which is due to them
whether as individuals or as the representatives of a great party who are
supporting the Government. Then they think Goderich has behaved so ill in

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this affair that they can have no confidence in him. They believe so much in
the integrity of his character that they do not suspect him of any duplicity in
what has passed, but his conduct has been marked by such deplorable
weakness as shows how unfit he is for the situation he occupies. He has
acted equally ill to the King, to his colleagues, and to Herries himself. The
history of the transaction is this:—While Goderich was Chancellor of the
Exchequer Herries was the man upon whose assistance he relied to carry on
the business of his office, and who in fact did it all for him. As soon as he
was at the head of the Treasury he felt that Herries would be equally
necessary to him, and he accordingly pressed him to take the office of
Chancellor of the Exchequer, which Herries declined. After repeated
solicitations, Herries told him that he had no objection to belong to his
Government, and that he would take the office of Vice-President of the
Board of Trade, and do all his Treasury business for him (this is the account
of Herries’ friends, which seems to me somewhat doubtful), though he did
not wish to be in the Cabinet. At last, however, Goderich prevailed on
Herries to let him propose him to the King, which was done. The
appointment was particularly agreeable to the King, who wrote a letter with
his own hand to Herries, desiring him to take the place. When Goderich
returned to town, with this letter in his pocket, he went (before he delivered
it) to the Cabinet, and then mentioning Herries, without saying what had
passed, he found that the Cabinet would not approve of the appointment, on
which he went to Herries, and said that he found that it would not do, and
begged him to allow his appointment to be cancelled. Herries told him that
he had never desired it, and was quite ready to give it up. As soon as
Herries had agreed to give it up Goderich pulls out of his pocket the King’s
letter, and says, ‘By-the-by, here is a letter which I ought to have given you
before.’ When Herries had read this letter he said, ‘This puts me quite in
another situation, and though I am still ready to give up being Chancellor of
the Exchequer, I must have my conduct explained to the King, and you
must take me down to Windsor to-morrow for that purpose.’ This Goderich
refused to do, when Herries said he should go down by himself. He did so,
and then passed all which I have described above in the account of the
Council on the 19th. I ought to have mentioned, as not the least curious
circumstance of the Council, that in the middle of it the King sent for Sir
William Knighton, who was closeted with him for an hour. I see this
account is not altogether the same as the preceding, a proof of the

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inaccuracy of anecdotes LORD LANSDOWNE AND THE KING. and historical facts
whenever they differ. This is the true one.
Henry de Ros told me that he saw George Dawson, Peel’s brother-in-
law, at Brighton, who told him that he believed there was nobody the King
was more exasperated against than Peel, and for this reason:—When the
late Government (Canning’s) was forming, Peel went to the King, and in
reply to his desire that he should form a part of it told him he could not
continue in any Government the head of which was a supporter of Catholic
Emancipation. The King proposed to him to remain, with a secret pledge
and promise from him that the question should not be carried. This of
course Peel refused, and the King, who construed his rejection of the
disgraceful proposal as conveying a doubt of his word, dismissed him with
much resentment.

September 15th, 1827
Taking up the account from where I left off, Goderich went to the
King, and it was settled Herries was to be Chancellor of the Exchequer. He
returned and wrote to Lord Lansdowne entreating him to acquiesce. Lord
Lansdowne went to the King, and the result of his interview was that he
retained office together with his friends. He wrote a letter to one of them,
which he intended might be communicated to others, giving an account of
his conduct and motives. I saw this letter. He said the King received him
very well and spared no entreaties to him to keep office. The King said that
he was most anxious the present Government should continue on every
account, but more particularly on account of what was now passing on the
Continent; that Lord Lansdowne’s holding office was indispensable for this
object, and he asked him in his own name and for the sake of the country
not to resign; that what had occurred had arisen out of a series of blunders
which, ‘let me say,’ he added, ‘were neither yours nor mine.’ Lord
Lansdowne said it was put to him in such a way that he could not do
otherwise; that he had insisted with Goderich that Stanley and
Mackintosh[20] should be employed. This was the pith of his letter. I have
been with Huskisson for a week in the country; he is in good health and
excellent spirits. Capo d’Istria was there, going to Greece. Huskisson told

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me he wanted money. He owned to me that he considered Greece as a great
humbug. I discovered from what he said that they only interfered that they
might keep the Russians quiet and prevent a war between Russia and
Turkey. The Sultan had announced his intention of sending any Minister to
the Seven Towers who should communicate the treaty to him.[21]
Everything is now quiet for the moment, and will probably continue so till
the meeting of Parliament.
[20] [Mr Stanley, afterwards Earl of Derby, had taken office under Mr. Canning, and was Under-
Secretary of State for the Colonies from April 1827 till January 1828. Lord Lansdowne must have
recommended him for a higher office.]
[21] [The Treaty of London for the Settlement of the Affairs of Greece was signed by England,
France, and Russia on the 7th of July, 1827. It was of course received with indignation by the Porte,
and led three months afterwards to the battle of Navarino, which was fought on the 20th of October.]

December 13th, 1827
Three months have passed since the above was written. I went to
Doncaster and Chatsworth, then to Newmarket, and returned to town the
middle of last month. The battle of Navarino has been fought, and after
three weeks’ expectation we know very little about the matter. The strong
part of the Cabinet, with Huskisson at the head, are for letting things take
their course, and for suffering Russia to go to war with Turkey, and leaving
it to her to enforce the articles of the Treaty of London. The plan is that
Russia should occupy Moldavia and Wallachia; that the terms should then
be offered to the Sultan, and that on his yielding the Greek independence
these provinces should be evacuated by the Russians; this is what they
propose that our mediation shall effect. In the meantime the Ministers are
uneasy about the approaching meeting of Parliament. They anticipate a
violent opposition in the House of Lords; they are by no means sure of a
majority in that House, and there is not one among them who has spirit and
character enough to face it. Lord Dudley is terrified LORD GODERICH’S
RESIGNATION. to the greatest degree at the notion of being attacked by Lord
Grey. Then, though they are not disunited, they derive no strength from
mutual co-operation and support, and the tone which the King has assumed,
and the peremptory manner in which he has claimed the disposal of every
sort of patronage, is both a proof of the weakness of Government, a source

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of discord among themselves, and the cause of distrust mixed with
contempt on the part of many of their friends. The King and the Duke of
Clarence made the promotions and dispensed the honours after the battle of
Navarino without consulting the Ministers. The King gave Sumner the
Bishopric of Winchester in the same way,[22] and there is a very general
opinion that the Cabinet is weak, that they do not act together with
cordiality, that they have neither energy nor authority, and are not likely to
keep their places. It has been currently reported that they would willingly
have censured Codrington, and have thrown the responsibility of the battle
from their own shoulders upon his, if they had dared, but that they were
prevented by the precipitate approbation expressed by the King. These
things are greatly exaggerated, but are not without foundation.
[22] [Vide supra, p. 45, when Lord Liverpool caused the nomination of Mr. Sumner to a canonry
of Windsor to be cancelled, because he had not been consulted. The King took the earliest
opportunity of appointing him to the See of Llandaff, whence he was soon afterwards translated to
that of Winchester. He died in 1874.]

December 15th, 1827
The Ministry is at an end. Goderich resigned either by letter to the
King yesterday or at the Council on Thursday. They have been going on ill
together for some time. Goderich has no energy, and his colleagues are
disgusted at his inefficiency, and at the assumption by the King of all power
in disposing of patronage. Huskisson is away, and wishes to be out. They
are embarrassed with the Greek question, and have to meet Parliament with
an immense deficiency in the revenue. This state of things and mutual
irritation and dissatisfaction have at length produced Goderich’s
resignation. Yesterday the Chancellor, Dudley, and Huskisson were
backwards and forwards to the King all day, and when he went to Windsor
at half-past five they were still in the Palace, and he left them there in
consultation. He is gone, but Knighton remains behind to negotiate and
communicate. In the meantime I find that the King is quite mad upon the
Catholic question, and that his real desire is to get rid of the Whigs, take
back the Duke of Wellington, and make an anti-Catholic Government. This
seems to be quite impossible in the present state of affairs, but a few days
will probably produce some decisive change.

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Page 136

1828.

January 2nd, 1828
As soon as Lord Goderich had resigned they sent to Lord Harrowby
and offered him the Premiership. He came to town directly, and went to the
King, but refused the place. His refusal was immediately known, and of
course there were a variety of conjectures and opinions afloat as to the man
who would be chosen. A few days, however, put an end to these, for it was
announced, to the astonishment of everybody, that Goderich had returned to
town, and that he would not resign. Here ended this matter, which made a
great noise for a few days; but the effects of what passed are yet to be seen
when Parliament meets. The injury which Goderich’s conduct has done to
the Government is incalculable, for it has brought them into such low
estimation that it is the general opinion they will not be able to retain their
places, and there are a great variety of persons in both Houses of Parliament
who are disposed to withdraw from them the support which they did give to
Canning’s Government, and which they were previously inclined to give to
this. As matters now stand they do not themselves know upon whom they
can count, nor who are their friends and who their foes. They are, however,
to have Lord Holland in the Cabinet, to help them on in the House of Lords,
but it is very doubtful whether his appointment will not lead to the
resignation of some of the Tory members of the Government and the
secession of some MR. BROUGHAM AT PANSHANGER. of its Tory supporters. Nothing
can exceed the alarm which they feel at the prospect of the approaching
contest in Parliament, and thus, full of fears and weakness, neither inspiring
nor feeling confidence, there seems a bad chance of their getting through
the session.
I have heard no more of the King and of his intentions, except that he
said he did not see why he was to be the only gentleman in his dominions
who was not to eat his Christmas dinner in quiet, and he was determined he
would. Don Miguel has been with him at the Cottage these two days. He

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has been received with great magnificence; they say he behaves well
enough, but is very shy. He went out stag-hunting in red coat and full
hunting costume, and rode over the fences like anybody else.
M‘Gregor told me the other day that not one of the physicians and
surgeons who attended the Duke of York through his long and painful
illness had ever received the smallest remuneration, although their names
and services had been laid before the King. He told me in addition that
during sixteen years that he attended the Duke and his whole family he
never received one guinea by way of fee or any payment whatever.
About three weeks ago I passed a few days at Panshanger, where I met
Brougham; he came from Saturday till Monday morning, and from the hour
of his arrival to that of his departure he never ceased talking. The party was
agreeable enough—Luttrell, Rogers, &c.—but it was comical to see how
the latter was provoked at Brougham’s engrossing all the talk, though he
could not help listening with pleasure. Brougham is certainly one of the
most remarkable men I ever met; to say nothing of what he is in the world,
his almost childish gaiety and animal spirits, his humour mixed with
sarcasm, but not ill-natured, his wonderful information, and the facility with
which he handles every subject, from the most grave and severe to the most
trifling, displaying a mind full of varied and extensive information and a
memory which has suffered nothing to escape it, I never saw any man
whose conversation impressed me with such an idea of his superiority over
all others. As Rogers said the morning of his departure, ‘this morning
Solon, Lycurgus, Demosthenes, Archimedes, Sir Isaac Newton, Lord
Chesterfield, and a great many more went away in one post chaise.’ He told
us a great many details relating to the Queen’s trial, and amongst other
things (which I do not believe) his conviction that the Queen had never had
any intrigue with Bergami. He told us the whole story of his finding out the
departure of Rastelli, which happened from a friend of his accidentally
seeing Rastelli in the street, recognising him, and telling Brougham.[23]
Brougham told none of his colleagues, and at first did not believe the story,
but by putting artful questions, and watching their effect, he found it was so,
and then out he came with it. There was a grand discussion whether they
should not throw up their briefs and stop there, and he was all for it, but was
overruled and gave way. The person who was most anxious they should go
on was Lord Grey, for he had got a notion that they could not any of them

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speak to evidence, and he wanted to make such a speech, which he fancied
he could do very well. Brougham said that as leading counsel for the Queen
he always reserved to himself the power of acting as he thought fit,
whatever the opinions of his colleagues might be, though they always
consulted together and gave their sentiments upon every debated point
seriatim. He and Denman invariably thought alike. The Queen never could
bear him, and was seldom civil to him. When she had to answer the address
of the House of Commons she appealed to her counsel for their advice,
which they declined to give, and she was furious, for she wanted to make
them advise her to accept the propositions of the House, which would have
been very unpopular, and then throw the odium of doing so on them.[24] He
spoke very CHARACTER OF MR. BROUGHAM. highly of Alderman Wood, who
behaved very well, never annoyed or interfered with them, and seems to
have been altogether a brave homme.
[23] [For the use made by Mr. Brougham of the accidental departure of Rastelli during the
Queen’s trial vide supra, p. 37, October 15, 1820.]
[24] [This was the address moved by Mr. Wilberforce on the 22nd of June, 1820 (vide supra, p.
30, June 23rd, 1820). Lord Brougham states in his ‘Memoirs’ that the Queen resolved to reject the
advice of Parliament without consulting her lawyers. In one of Lord Brougham’s letters written at the
time he calls Wood ‘the ass and alderman called Thistle-wood,’ and attributed to him the intrigue
which brought the Queen to England.]

If it had been possible to recollect all that Brougham said on this and a
hundred other subjects, it would be well worth writing down, but such talk
is much too evanescent, and I remember no more.
After all Brougham is only a living and very remarkable instance of
the inefficacy of the most splendid talents, unless they are accompanied
with other qualities, which scarcely admit of definition, but which must
serve the same purpose that ballast does for a ship. Brougham has prospered
to a certain degree; he has a great reputation and he makes a considerable
income at the bar; but as an advocate he is left behind by men of far inferior
capacity, whose names are hardly known beyond the precincts of their
courts or the boundaries of their circuits. As a statesman he is not
considered eligible for the highest offices, and however he may be admired
or feared as an orator or debater, he neither commands respect by his
character nor inspires confidence by his genius, and in this contrast between
his pretensions and his situation more humble abilities may find room for

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consolation and cease to contemplate with envy his immense superiority. To
suppose that his ambition can be satisfied in the possession of natural and
acquired powers far greater than the majority of mankind would be contrary
to all experience. Such men consider their acquirements as means for the
attainment of greater ends, and the disappointments which they frequently
meet with in the pursuit of their objects of ambition more than counteract
all the feelings of pride and satisfaction which conscious superiority is
calculated to inspire. The life of a politician is probably one of deep
mortification, for the race is not always to the swift nor the battle to the
strong, and few things can be more galling than to see men far inferior to
ourselves enabled by fortune and circumstances to attain what we toil after
in vain, and to learn from our own experience how many things there are in
this life of greater practical utility than splendid abilities and unwearied
industry.

London, January 19th, 1828
The Ministry is at last settled, and now for its history. Early in last
week Goderich went down to the King and told him there was such a
quarrel in the Cabinet between Huskisson and Herries about the Finance
Committee that both could not remain, and that Huskisson would resign if
he had not his own way. The King was furious at this new disturbance, and
said he could not understand it; if Huskisson resigned, the Government was
at an end. ‘Go,’ he ended, ‘and send the Chancellor to me.’ The Chancellor
[Lord Lyndhurst] went, and was desired to bring the Duke of Wellington.
The Government was dissolved and the King desired the Duke to form a
new one. All this was immediately known, and first it was asked, ‘What is
the quarrel between Huskisson and Herries which broke up the old
Cabinet?’ The friends of each put about a story, one of which appeared in
the ‘Times,’ the other in the ‘Morning Chronicle.’ The question was Lord
Althorp’s appointment as chairman of the Finance Committee. Huskisson’s
story is this:—In November Tierney went to Goderich and proposed
Althorp as a good man to be in the chair of that Committee. Goderich
assented, and said, ‘But you had better speak to Huskisson about it, as it is a
House of Commons matter.’ He did so, and Huskisson approved of it. A few
days after Tierney called on Huskisson and found Herries with him, when

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they discussed the matter generally, as well as the particular appointment of
Althorp, and Herries made no objection, and, as they thought, agreed with
them; but shortly after Herries went to Goderich, complained that this
matter had been settled without his knowledge and concurrence, that it was
a slight put upon him, and said he would not agree to Althorp’s nomination,
nor stay in office if it were persisted in.
This is one story, told me by Sefton, who had it (I am sure) from
Brougham, and verbatim the same by Robarts, who had it (he told me
himself) from Tierney. Herries’ HOSTILITY OF HERRIES. story only differs in this:
it omits the interview between the three Ministers, and declares the matter
was never mentioned to him at all till they had decided on it, when it was
shown him as a plan which was not to be discussed, but which he was at
once to assent to. It appears difficult to know which to believe, and at first
my impression was that they had probably not treated Herries with as much
consideration as he was entitled to as Finance Minister, and that he had
been prone to take offence and touchy from old recollections, which were
probably not effaced. But a circumstance I heard afterwards convinced me
that Herries has been all along full of ill-will towards his colleagues, and
not a little desirous of breaking up the Ministry. When he found, too, with
what difficulties they would have to contend in Parliament and the
weakness of Goderich, he probably thought they would never be able to go
on, and was not sorry to find an opportunity of accelerating their
dissolution. The circumstance is this:—In the old business of his
appointment to the Chancellorship of the Exchequer, when he thought he
was not to be appointed, he wrote to Arbuthnot telling him how ill he had
been treated, and promising to send him all the correspondence on the
subject. Subsequently he was appointed, when he wrote again to A., saying
that as it was settled and he was appointed, he did not think it would be
right to send him the correspondence, which he was sure he would
understand; that there he was, and he should do his best to act cordially with
his new colleagues; but he finished, ‘I shall hail the day which brings all of
you back again.’ Such an expression to a man who was the bitterest enemy
of the Government of which he was a member did not evince much
cordiality towards his colleagues.
The first thing to be done by the Duke was to negotiate with
Huskisson. He sent forthwith for his own friends, Peel, Lord Bathurst, and

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Melville, and for many days the great question was whether Huskisson
would join or not, the Whigs of course most anxious he should refuse, the
new Government ready to make great concessions to tempt him to join
them. He has acceded, however, but much to the disgust of many of his
friends, some of whom think he has behaved shabbily in abandoning the
Whigs, who supported him, and who had supported Canning at his utmost
need. Some think he was pledged never to act with the men who they
consider to have behaved so ill to Canning, and some think he has
compromised his dignity and independence by not insisting on higher
terms, particularly the lead in the House of Commons. At present the exact
terms of his bargain are not known, and without being acquainted with all
that has passed de part et d’autre it is impossible to form a judgment as to
the wisdom or the fairness of his conduct. Those who think he would have
acted a wiser part and have made himself of greater importance by heading
a third party in the House of Commons and keeping aloof, judge too hastily.
He would have been followed by all those who call themselves Canning’s
personal friends, and probably by a considerable body of neutrals, who
would not have been disposed to support a Tory Government, and still less
to join a Whig Opposition. But however weak the Ministry (without
Huskisson) might have appeared at first sight in the House of Commons, it
would very possibly have proved stronger than was imagined. Strength and
weakness are relative terms, and it remained to be seen what sort of power
would have been brought against it, and to what attacks the Government
would have exposed itself. The old Tory Ministry, which was voted out for
incapacity by the House of Commons, was the strongest and longest that we
have seen for many years, though opposed by all the talent and power of an
Opposition more formidable than this can be. To be sure it must always be
remembered that they floated through their difficulties on the tide of the
Duke of Wellington’s victories. Of all the party who would have ranged
themselves under Huskisson, only Canning’s friends, a select few, would
have considered themselves bound to him, and the rest, if they found the
Government strong and likely to last, would probably have dropped off and
gradually joined it. In that case Huskisson would never have been MR.
HUSKISSON’S POSITION. able to treat as an independent power, and though they
might have been glad to take him into the Administration, he could not have
made his own terms. I do not think he ever could have looked to
overturning the Tory Government and coming in with the whole body of the

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Whigs, for he has no natural partiality (any more than Canning had) for that
party, and he is fully aware how odious they are to the King and how
unpopular in the country, which is always more inclined to the Tories than
to them. If the Tories have agreed to those measures (except the Catholic
question, for that is to remain on its old footing) which he deems necessary,
and of which he is the author—that is, of Free Trade, &c.—he would
probably rather act with them than with the Whigs; and in joining
Government he is liable to no reproach but that of having shaken off his
Whig colleagues too easily. But it remains to be proved whether they could
have gone on, and at all events Lords Lansdowne and Carlisle might have
remained in office if they pleased, though certainly it was not probable that
they would do so. The part of the transaction which will appear
extraordinary is, that the Government having been broken up by a quarrel
between Huskisson and Herries, the opposite party come in and both these
Ministers remain with them. In private life the transaction would look very
like a fraud, and be open to great suspicion. It would appear as if they had
got up a sham quarrel in order to get out their colleagues and stay in
themselves with the Tories. This, however, I believe not to have been the
case, at least as far as Huskisson is concerned, though perhaps Herries may
not be altogether so clear.

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CHAPTER IV.
The Duke of Wellington’s Administration — Huskisson’s
Speech — Irritation of Mr. Canning’s Friends — Tom
Duncombe’s Maiden Speech — Mr. Huskisson resigns and the
Canningites quit the Government — Princess Lieven Hostile to
the Duke — The Catholic Question — Jockey Club Dinner at
St. James’s — Lord Lyndhurst — Sir Robert Adair — Fox and
Burke — Fox and Pitt — The Lord High Admiral dismissed by
the King — Dawson’s Speech on Catholic Emancipation — The
King’s Health — His Pages — State of Ireland — Marquis of
Anglesey — O’Connell — His Influence in Ireland — Lord
Belmore Governor of Jamaica — The Duke’s Letter to Dr.
Curtis — Recall of Lord Anglesey from Ireland — Causes of
this Event — Excitement of the King on the Catholic Question
— His Aversion to Sir William Knighton — Character of
George IV. — Denman’s Silk Gown — Pension to Lady
Westmeath — Duke of Wellington on Russia — The Reis-
Effendi — Duke of Northumberland goes to Ireland — Privy
Council Register — State Paper Office — The Gunpowder Plot
— Catholic Emancipation — Navarino.

January 28th, 1828
Until the Duke of Wellington’s commission as First Lord of the
Treasury appeared many people doubted that he would take the office.[1]
The Ordnance was offered to IRRITATION OF THE WHIGS. Lord Rosslyn, who
refused it, and then given to Lord Beresford, but without a seat in the
Cabinet (as Lord Bathurst told me) by his own particular desire. Some days
have now elapsed, and time has been afforded for the expression of popular
feeling and opinion on the late changes. Lady Canning and many of

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Canning’s friends are very much dissatisfied with Huskisson, and think he
deserted his principles and outraged the memory of Canning. Lady C.
particularly is much hurt at what has passed. She has not seen Huskisson,
but he is aware of her sentiments, though he says she has so high an opinion
of him that she is sure he is acting for what he believes to be the best. The
majority of Canning’s friends have adhered to the Government. The great
body of the Whigs who belonged to or supported the late Government are
indignant and violent, particularly with Huskisson, who they think has
betrayed them. An interview has taken place between Huskisson and Lord
Lansdowne, in which the former explained his conduct, and (as far as I can
learn) the latter said but little, neither condemning nor approving. But the
great body of the party are resolved to oppose the new Government in every
way, though without attempting to form a party, which they do not think
feasible in their present condition. They intend a desultory and harassing
warfare, particularly attacking Huskisson upon Liberal measures, to which
he stands pledged, but which they think he will now be prevented by his
colleagues from carrying into effect. The seceding Whigs are triumphant,
because they assert that what has happened is a full justification of their
conduct. They forget, however, that all this is mainly attributable to them
and to Canning’s death, which occurred in the interim. On the other hand
the old Tories are not altogether satisfied, and, though rejoiced at the
restoration of the party, cannot bear to see Huskisson and his friends
members of the Government from abhorrence of Canning and all Liberal
principles. However, the principal men have sent in their adhesions in very
civil letters to the Duke.
[1] [The Duke of Wellington’s Administration was at first constituted as follows:—
Duke of Wellington, First Lord of the Treasury.
Lord Lyndhurst, Lord Chancellor.
Earl Bathurst, Lord President of the Council.
Earl of Ellenborough, Lord Privy Seal.
Mr. Peel, Home Secretary.
Lord Dudley, Foreign Secretary.
Mr. Huskisson, Colonial Secretary.
Earl of Aberdeen, Duchy of Lancaster.
Mr. Goulburn, Chancellor of the Exchequer.
Mr. Charles Grant, President of the Board of Trade.
Mr. Herries, Master of the Mint.
Viscount Melville, President of the India Board.
Lord Dudley, Mr. Huskisson, Mr. Grant, and Lord Palmerston (Secretary at War, not in the
Cabinet) were the four Canningite members who resigned in May following. They were replaced by
Lord Aberdeen, Sir George Murray, Mr. Vesey Fitzgerald, and Sir Henry Hardinge respectively.]

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All the Ministers (old and new) were at Windsor the other day; but it
was contrived that they should not meet, the ins being in one room and
Lansdowne and Carlisle in another, and it was afterwards discovered that in
a third room by himself was Goderich. This Lord Sefton told me, and he
had it from Lord Lansdowne, who had it from the King and confirmed by
Lord Conyngham. His Majesty was remarkably civil to Lords Lansdowne
and Carlisle. The King had a scene with the Duke of Devonshire, whom he
could not persuade to stay in his place, though he tried hard. Scarlett has
resigned the Attorney-Generalship, but not very willingly. He wrote to
Milton and asked his advice. Milton advised him to resign, and so he did.
One thing that has angered the Tories is the Duke’s not having consulted
Lord Eldon, nor offered him any place; and it seems he is extremely
mortified, for though he did not want the seals again, he would have been
very glad to take office as President of the Council.

February 25th, 1828
There is one advantage in writing at intervals of some time instead of
keeping a regular diary; I can take a more bird’s-eye view of events, and
avoid falling into many errors, which it would be afterwards necessary to
correct. I went to Newmarket and stayed there three weeks for my health.
While I was there Huskisson made his speech at Liverpool.[2] The Tories
were furious, and in the IRRITATION OF THE WHIGS. House of Lords the Duke of
Wellington contradicted it, or rather said he did not believe it was faithfully
reported, for all that he was reported to have said about the guarantee was
untrue. I returned to town in time for the House of Commons, and found the
greatest excitement, curiosity, and violence generally prevailing. As to
Huskisson, he had offended the Tories, the Whigs, and Lady Canning, and
everybody condemned him. Parties were split to pieces, there was no
Opposition, and no man could tell what were the politics of his neighbour,
scarcely what his own. Lady Canning was in a state of great rage and
resentment, and had inspired George Bentinck with the same sentiments.
Clanricarde had been sent down by her to the House of Lords furnished
with extracts of Canning’s letters to throw in the teeth of his old friends and
his old enemies, and she threatened fresh disclosures and fresh documents
which were to confound all whom she deemed worthy of her indignation. A

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very angry colloquy took place at a dinner at Warrender’s between Lord
Seaford and George Bentinck, in which the latter violently attacked Mr.
Canning’s friends for joining the present Government, and quoted
Huskisson’s declaration that he would never act with the men who had
abandoned him. Lord Seaford grew angry, and asked George what he knew
of that declaration and what his authority was for quoting it. To which
George replied that he had it from himself—from Lord Seaford at Paris.
This confounded the noble Lord, and altogether there was a pretty violent
altercation, which greatly annoyed both him and Howard, who was present,
and was regretted by all their common friends. Two days after this came on
the debate in the House of Commons and the explanations of Huskisson and
Herries. Their speeches were both satisfactory enough till Tierney spoke,
who entirely knocked over their cases, or at least that of Herries, for against
Huskisson he proved nothing, except that he might perhaps have been more
communicative, though I think this reproach applies more to Lord Goderich
than to him. The impression left with regard to Herries was as unfavourable
as possible.
[2] [The speech made by Mr. Huskisson on his re-election at Liverpool on the 5th of February,
1828, is printed in vol. iii. of his ‘Collected Speeches,’ p. 673. It contains a full account of these
transactions. The passage which gave so much offence to the Tories was that ‘if the Government was
such as satisfied the view I took of the interests of the country, and provided such arrangements were
made in its construction as afforded a guarantee that the principle I approved should not be departed
from, I was not precluded from joining it;’ and again, ‘The presence in office of such men as Lord
Dudley, Lord Palmerston, Mr. Grant, and Mr. Lamb is the most satisfactory of all guarantees that the
general principles of our foreign and commercial system would remain unchanged, and that Ireland
would be governed with the strictest impartiality in respect to the Catholic question.’
These declarations of Mr. Huskisson had a material effect on the occurrences which not long
afterwards took place.]

The great event of the night was Duncombe’s[3] speech, which was
delivered with perfect self-possession and composure, but in so ridiculous a
manner that everybody laughed at him, although they were amused with his
impudence and at the style and objects of his attack. However, the next day
it was discovered that he had performed a great exploit; he was loudly
applauded and congratulated on all sides, and made into the hero of the day.
His fame was infinitely increased on a subsequent night, when Herries
again came before the House and when Tommy fired another shot at him.
The newspapers were full of his praises. The Whigs called at his door and
eagerly sought his acquaintance. Those who love fun and personality

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cheered him on with loud applause, and he now fancies himself the greatest
man going, and is ready to get up and abuse anybody on the Treasury
bench. To me, who knew all the secret strings that moved this puppet,
nothing can be more amusing.
[3] [Thomas Slingsby Duncombe, nephew of the first Lord Feversham distinguished for his
Radical opinions, M.P. for Finsbury after the Reform Bill. He sat at this time for Hertford; and the
incident related in the text appears to have been his début in political life.]

The history of Tom Duncombe and his speech is instructive as well as
amusing, for it is a curious proof of the facility with which the world may
be deceived, and of the prodigious effect which may be produced by the
smallest means, if they are aided by some fortuitous circumstances and
happily applied. Tommy came to Henry de Ros and told him that his
constituents at Hertford were very anxious he should make a speech, but
that he did not know what to say, and begged Henry to supply him with the
necessary materials. He advised him to strike out something new, and
having received his assurance that he should be able to recollect anything
that he learned by heart, and that he was not afraid of his courage failing,
Henry composed for him the speech which Duncombe delivered. But
knowing the slender capacity of his man, he was not satisfied with placing
the speech in his hands, but adopted every precaution which his ingenuity
suggested to avert the danger of his breaking TOM DUNCOMBE’S MAIDEN SPEECH.
down. He made him learn the speech by heart, and then made him think it
over again and put it into language of his own, justly fearing that if he
should forget any of the more polished periods of the original it would
appear sadly botched by his own interpolations. He then instructed him
largely as to how and when he was to bring it in, supplying him with
various commonplace phrases to be used as connecting links, and by the
help of which he might be enabled to fasten upon some of the preceding
speeches. I saw Henry de Ros the day before the debate, when he told me
what he was doing, and asked me to suggest anything that occurred upon
the subject, and at the same time repeated to me the speech with which he
had armed his hero. I hinted my apprehensions that he would fail in the
delivery, but though he was not without some alarm, he expressed (as it
afterwards appeared a well-grounded) confidence in Duncombe’s
extraordinary nerve and intrepidity.

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His speech on the second night was got up precisely in the same
manner, and although it appeared to arise out of the debate and of those
which preceded it, the matter had been all crammed into him by his
invisible Mentor. The amusement to him and to me (especially at the
honours that have been thickly poured upon him and the noise which he has
made in the world) is indescribably pungent.
Thus Duncombe and his speech have made what is called a great
sensation, and he has the reputation (no matter whether justly or not) of
having thrown the enemy’s camp into greater confusion by the boldness of
his language than anybody has ever done, because nobody has ever before
dared to mention those whom he dragged forward. To the ignorant majority
of the world he appears a man of great promise, of boldness, quickness, and
decision, and the uproar that is made about him cannot fail to impress
others as well as himself with a high notion of his consequence.
Knighton is gone abroad, I have very little doubt, in consequence of
what passed, and as nobody enquires very minutely into the real causes of
things where they get apparent ones with ease, it is said and believed at
once that Duncombe is the man who has driven him out, and that he has
given the first blow to that secret influence which has only been obscurely
hinted at before and never openly attacked. These are great and important
matters, far exceeding any consequences which the authors of the speech
anticipated from its delivery at the time. And what are the agents who have
produced such an effect? A man of ruined fortune and doubtful character,
whose life has been spent on the race-course, at the gaming-table, and in the
green-room, of limited capacity, exceedingly ignorant, and without any
stock but his impudence to trade on, only speaking to serve an
electioneering purpose, and crammed by another man with every thought
and every word that he uttered.

June 12th, 1828
We have now got a Tory Government, and all that remained of
Canning’s party are gone.[4] The case of the Duke of Wellington and
Huskisson is before the world, but nobody judges fairly. Motives are
attributed to both parties which had no existence, and the truth is hardly

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ever told at first, though it generally oozes out by degrees. After the
explanations in February the Government went on to all appearance very
well, but there lurked under this semblance of harmony some seeds of
jealousy and distrust, not I believe so much in the mind of the Duke as in
those of his Tory colleagues, and the Canningites on their side certainly felt
no cordiality even towards the Duke himself. They said that he never could
nor would understand anything; that he said a thing one day and forgot it
the next, DISPUTES IN THE CABINET. and instead of that clearness of intellect for
which he had credit, nothing could be more puzzled and confused than he
was; that nothing could absolve him from the suspicion of duplicity and
insincerity but the conviction that his ambiguous conduct on various
occasions arose from a confusion of ideas. On the other hand, Lord Bathurst
told my father that he thought they (Huskisson and his friends) were too
much disposed to act together as a party in the Cabinet; and it is clear that
the Duke thought so too, and that this feeling and the resentment it
engendered in his mind are the real reasons of his conduct on the late
occasion.
[4] [Bills had been brought into Parliament for the disfranchisement of the boroughs of Penryn
and East Retford, and the transfer of those seats to Manchester and Birmingham. On the East Retford
case, which came before the House of Commons on the 19th of May, Mr. Huskisson felt bound in
honour to support the measure, and voted against his colleagues. On his return home after the debate
he wrote a hasty letter to the Duke of Wellington, in which he said that he ‘owed it to the Duke and to
Mr. Peel to lose no time in affording them an opportunity of placing his office in other hands.’ The
Duke regarding this as a formal act of resignation, laid it before the King and filled up the
appointment. The correspondence is published in the Duke of Wellington’s ‘Correspondence,’ New
Series, vol. iv. p. 449. The resignation of Lord Palmerston, Charles Grant, and Lord Dudley followed.
The details of this transaction are sufficiently alluded to in the text.]

There had been a dispute in the Cabinet about the Corn Bill, which
occasioned the discussion of it to be put off for a few days at the time, and
upon that occasion Grant resigned his office. The matter was made up and
he stayed. But when upon the East Retford affair Huskisson resigned, and in
such an extraordinary manner, the Duke felt that there was a disposition to
embarrass him by these perpetual tenders of resignation, which he believed
they thought he would not venture to accept. Upon receiving Huskisson’s
letter he went to Lord Bathurst and consulted him, and Lord Bathurst
advised him to take him at his word. Everybody looks for some cause
which does not appear for important events, and people with difficulty
admit of very simple solutions and very trifling causes, though such are not

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unfrequently the real ones. I believe that Huskisson had no intention of
embarrassing the Duke and none of resigning; but for a cool and sensible
man his conduct is most extraordinary, for he acted with the precipitation of
a schoolboy and showed a complete want of all those qualities of prudence
and calm deliberation for which he has the greatest credit. But though this
breach might have been avoided, from the sentiments which have been
expressed by both parties, it is evident other differences would have arisen
which must have dissolved the Government before long. After putting aside
the violent opinions on both sides, the conclusion is that Huskisson acted
very hastily and imprudently, and that his letter (say what he will) was a
complete resignation, and that the Duke had a right so to consider it; that in
the Duke’s conduct there appeared a want of courtesy and an anxiety to get
rid of him which it would have been more fair to avow and defend than to
deny; that on both sides there was a mixture of obstinacy and angry feeling,
and a disposition to treat the question rather as a personal matter than one in
which the public interests were deeply concerned. But the charge which is
made on one side that Huskisson wanted to embarrass the Duke’s
Government and enhance his own importance, and that on the other of the
Duke’s insincerity, are both unfounded.
Some circumstances, however, contributed to place the Duke’s conduct
in an unfavourable point of view. These were the extravagant and
unconcealed joy of the High Tories and of his immediate friends, and his
attending at the same time the Pitt dinner and sitting there while Lord Eldon
gave his famous ‘one cheer more’ for Protestant ascendency. That he treated
Huskisson with some degree of harshness there is no doubt, but he was
angry, and not without reason; the former brought it all upon himself.
During the debate upon East Retford, when Huskisson was called upon by
Sandon to redeem his pledge, he told Peel that he could not help himself,
and must vote against him; but he begged him to put off the question till the
following week, that it might be considered again. This Peel refused; had he
acceded, all this would not have taken place.
When the King saw Huskisson he was extremely gracious to him,
expressed the utmost regret at losing him, and said that he had wished not to
see him at first, that he might avoid receiving his resignation, and in hopes
that the matter would have been arranged.[5] However, the other party say
that the King is very glad to have got rid of him and his party.

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[5] [Huskisson solicited an audience, which his Majesty refused for some days to grant: he
would not see him until he had written again to the Duke of Wellington.]

In the middle of all this Madame de Lieven is supposed to have acted
with great impertinence if not imprudence, THE CATHOLIC QUESTION. and to have
made use of the access she has to the King to say all sorts of things against
the Duke and the present Government. Her dislike to the Duke has been
increasing ever since that cessation of intimacy which was caused by
Canning’s accession to power, when she treated him very uncivilly in order
to pay court to Canning. Esterhazy told me last night that although her
position here was now greatly changed, and that it was far from being so
agreeable as it was, he could not accuse her of imprudence in having taken
the part she had done, because he thought that it had answered very well,
and that the objects of her Court had been in great measure accomplished
through her means.

June 18th, 1828
The Duke of Wellington’s speech on the Catholic question is
considered by many to have been so moderate as to indicate a disposition
on his part to concede emancipation, and bets have been laid that Catholics
will sit in Parliament next year. Many men are resolved to see it in this light
who are anxious to join his Government, and whose scruples with regard to
that question are removed by such an interpretation of his speech. I do not
believe he means to do anything until he is compelled to it, which if he
remains in office he will be; for the success of the Catholic question
depends neither on Whigs nor Tories, the former of whom have not the
power and the latter not the inclination to carry it. The march of time and
the state of Ireland will effect it in spite of everything, and its slow but
continual advance can neither be retarded by its enemies nor accelerated by
its friends. In the meantime men affect to consider his expressions as of
importance enough to influence their conduct in taking or refusing office.
Frankland Lewis,[6] who refused the Irish Secretaryship, said that after that
speech he regretted his refusal and would be glad to take it, and now he
wants to join the Government again. Certainly at this moment the Tories are
triumphant, and so far from the Duke’s Government having any difficulty in
standing, there does not appear to be a disposition in any quarter to oppose

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it. Not only in Parliament there is no Opposition, but the press is veering
round and treating him with great civility. The Government seem well
disposed to follow up the Liberal policy, to which they have been suspected
of being adverse, and have already declared that they do not intend to
deviate either in their foreign or domestic policy from the principles on
which the Government was understood to act previous to the separation.
Arbuthnot told my father yesterday that they all regret now having resigned
in 1827, and Huskisson owned to A. that he had acted with unfortunate
precipitancy.
[6] [Right Hon. T. Frankland Lewis, a member of the Grenville and Canning section of the Tory
party; made a baronet by Sir Robert Peel; the father of the Right Hon. Sir George Cornewall Lewis.]

June 29th, 1828
I dined yesterday with the King at St. James’s—his Jockey Club
dinner. There were about thirty people, several not being invited whom he
did not fancy. The Duke of Leeds told me a much greater list had been
made out, but he had scratched several out of it. We assembled in the
Throne Room, and found him already there, looking very well and walking
about. He soon, however, sat down, and desired everybody else to do so.
Nobody spoke, and he laughed and said, ‘This is more like a Quaker than a
Jockey Club meeting.’ We soon went to dinner, which was in the Great
Supper Room and very magnificent. He sat in the middle, with the Dukes of
Richmond and Grafton on each side of him. I sat opposite to him, and he
was particularly gracious to me, talking to me across the table and
recommending all the good things; he made me (after eating a quantity of
turtle) eat a dish of crawfish soup, till I thought I should have burst. After
dinner the Duke of Leeds, who sat at the head of the table, gave ‘The King.’
We all stood up, when his Majesty thanked us, and said he hoped this would
be the first of annual meetings of the sort to take place, there or elsewhere
under his roof. He then ordered paper, pens, &c., and they began making
matches and stakes; the most perfect ease was established, just as much as
if we had been dining with the Duke of York, and he seemed delighted. He
made one or two little speeches, LORD LYNDHURST AND THE GREAT SEAL. one
recommending that a stop should be put to the exportation of horses. He
twice gave ‘The Turf,’ and at the end the Duke of Richmond asked his leave

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to give a toast, and again gave ‘The King.’ He thanked all the gentlemen,
and said that there was no man who had the interests of the turf more at
heart than himself, that he was delighted at having this party, and that the
oftener they met the better, and he only wanted to have it pointed out to him
how he could promote the pleasure and amusement of the turf, and he was
ready to do anything in his power. He got up at half-past twelve and wished
us good night. Nothing could go off better, and Mount Charles told me he
was sure he was delighted.
I dined with the Chancellor [Lord Lyndhurst] three days ago; he talked
to me a great deal about his acceptance of the Great Seal and of the
speculation it was. He was Master of the Rolls with 7,000ℓ. a year for life
when it was offered to him; he debated whether it was worth while to give
this up to be Chancellor for perhaps only one year, with a peerage and the
pension. He talked the matter over with his wife, and they agreed that if it
only lasted one year (which he evidently thought probable) it was worth
while, besides the contingency of a long Chancellorship. He asked me if the
Government was popular and reckoned strong. I told him it was apparently
popular and reckoned strong, because there was no Opposition and little
chance of any. I said that however hazardous his speculation might have
been, it had turned out well, for he had a good chance of being Chancellor
as long as his predecessor had been, there being so few candidates for the
office. He said this was true, and then he talked of his Court, and said it was
impossible for one man to do the business of it. In talking of the speculation
he had made, political opinions and political consistency seemed never to
occur to him, and he considered the whole matter in a light so business-like
and professional as to be quite amusing. He talked of the Duke, said he was
a good man to do business with, quick and intelligent, and ‘how well he
managed that little correspondence with Huskisson,’ which was droll
enough, for Huskisson dined there and was in the room.

August 6th, 1828
About three weeks ago I went to Windsor to a Council. The King had
been very ill for a day or two, but was recovered. Rob Adair[7] was sworn in
Privy Councillor, and he remained in the room and heard the speech, which

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he ought not to have done. The Duke attacked me afterwards (in joke) for
letting him stay; but I told him it was no business of mine, and his
neighbour ought to have told him to go. That neighbour, however, was
Vesey Fitzgerald, who said it was the first time he had attended a Council,
and he could not begin by turning another man out. I brought Adair back to
town, and he told me a great many things about Burke, and Fox, and
Fitzpatrick, and all the eminent men of that time with whom he lived when
he was young. He said what I have often heard before, that Fitzpatrick was
the most agreeable of them all, but Hare the most brilliant. Burke’s
conversation was delightful, so luminous and instructive. He was very
passionate, and Adair said that the first time he ever saw him he unluckily
asked him some question about the wild parts of Ireland, when Burke broke
out, ‘You are a fool and a blockhead; there are no wild parts in Ireland.’ He
was extremely terrified, but afterwards Burke was very civil to him, and he
knew him very well.
[7] [Right Hon. Sir Robert Adair, the friend of Fox, formerly ambassador at Constantinople and
Vienna. It was he whom Canning once called ‘Bobadare-a-dool-fowla.’]

He told me a great deal about the quarrel between Fox and Burke. Fox
never ceased to entertain a regard for Burke, and at no time would suffer
him to be abused in his presence. There was an attempt made to bring about
a reconciliation, and a meeting for that purpose took place of all the leading
men at Burlington House. Burke was on the point of yielding when his son
suddenly made his appearance unbidden, and on being told what was going
on said, ‘My father shall be no party to such a compromise,’ took Burke
aside and persuaded him to reject the overtures. That son Adair SIR ROBERT
ADAIR’S ANECDOTES. described as the most disagreeable, violent, and wrong-
headed of men, but the idol of his father, who used to say that he united all
his own talents and acquirements with those of Fox and everybody else.
After the death of Richard Burke, Fox and Burke met behind the throne of
the House of Lords one day, when Fox went up to Burke and put out both
his hands to him. Burke was almost surprised into meeting this cordiality in
the same spirit, but the momentary impulse passed away, and he doggedly
dropped his hands and left the House.
Adair told me that Lord Holland has written very copious memoirs of
his own time, and particularly characters of all the eminent men who have
died, in the delineation of which he excels. Soon after Pitt’s resignation in

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1801 there was an attempt made to effect a junction between Pitt and Fox,
to which they were neither of them averse. The negotiation was, however,
entrusted to subordinate agents, and Adair said that he had always regretted
that they had not met, for if they had he thought the matter would have been
arranged. As it was the design was thwarted by the King through the
intervention (I think he said) of Lord Loughborough.
There was another Council about a week ago. On these occasions the
King always whispers to me something or other about his racehorses or
something about myself, and I am at this moment in high favour. We had
Howley and Bloomfield[8] at this Council, with the latter of whom I made
acquaintance, to the great amusement of the Duke. He laughed at seeing me
conversing with this bishop.
[8] [The Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of London.]

I hear from Frederick Lamb that the Duke is greatly alarmed about
Ireland. By-the-by he, Frederick,[9] is come back from Portugal, thinking
that our Government have acted very ill and very foolishly, first
encouraging and then abandoning these wretched Constitutionalists to their
fate, and he is no particular friend to Liberalism.
[9] [Sir Frederick Lamb, afterwards created Lord Beauvale, and who became Lord Melbourne
on the death of his brother William.]

August 14th, 1828
Just returned from Goodwood, where I went on the 11th, and heard on
arriving that the Lord High Admiral had resigned, but no particulars. It is a
very good thing at all events.

August 16th, 1828
The Lord High Admiral was turned out.[10] The Duke told him that he
must go, but that he might resign as if of his own accord. The Duke is all-
powerful. It is strongly reported that Peel will resign, that the Duke means
to concede the Catholic question and to negotiate a concordat with the

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Pope. Many people think Lord Grey will join the Government, and that he
will be First Lord of the Admiralty. The Duke gave his brother Dr.
Bloomfield’s living without any solicitation. Esterhazy told me to-night that
Palmella entertains from twenty to thirty of his countrymen at dinner every
day, of whom there are several hundred in London, of the best families,
totally destitute. All Palmella’s property is sequestrated, but he receives the
appointment of Portuguese Minister from the Brazilian Government.
[10] [The King’s letter dismissing the Duke of Clarence from the office of Lord High Admiral
was dated the 11th of August, 1828. It is published in the Duke of Wellington’s ‘Correspondence,’
New Series, vol. iv. p. 595.]

August 22nd, 1828
Went to Stoke on the 19th and came back yesterday. There were the
Dowager Lady Salisbury, Duchess of Newcastle, Worcester and Lady W.
Russell, Giles, Billy Churchill. On the 18th Dawson’s speech[11] at Derry
reached us, and I never remember any occurrence which excited greater
surprise. The general impression was that he made the speech, with the
Duke’s knowledge and concurrence, which I never believed. I thought from
what he said to me just before he went to Ireland that he had changed his
own opinion, and now many people say they knew this; but I was little
prepared to hear of his making DAWSON’S SPEECH AT DERRY. such a speech at such
a place as Derry, and on such an occasion as a ‘Prentice Boy’
commemoration. The rage and fury of the Orangemen there and of the
Orange press here are boundless, and the violence and scurrility of their
abuse are the more absurd because Dawson only described in glowing
colours, and certainly without reserve, the actual state of Ireland, but did not
argue the question at all further than leaving on his hearers the inevitable
inference that he thought the time for granting emancipation was come. The
truth is that the conversion of one of the most violent anti-Catholics must
strike everybody as a strong argument in favour of the measure, and they
know not by how many and by whom his example may be followed. The
Orangemen are moving heaven and earth to create disturbances, and their
impotent fury shows how low their cause is sunk. The Catholics, on the
contrary, are temperate and calm, from confidence in their strength and the
progressive advance of their course. But although I think the Catholics are

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now in a position which renders their ultimate success certain, I am very far
from participating in the sanguine expectations of those who think the Duke
of Wellington is convinced that the question must be settled directly, and
that he will carry it through in the ensuing session. In the first place I see
clearly that the Government are extremely annoyed at Dawson’s speech. I
saw Goulburn to-day, and though he did not say much, what he did say was
enough to satisfy me of this: ‘he hoped that it had been incorrectly
reported.’ Dawson has written to the Duke,[12] and the letter was sent to him
to-day. But what has put me in despair about it is a letter of the Duke’s
which Drummond read to me to-day addressed, I do not know to whom, but
upon that subject. It began, ‘My dear sir,’ and after other matter proceeded
nearly as follows:—‘This subject has been more discussed and more
pamphlets have been written upon it in the course of the last twenty-five
years than any other that I can remember. No two people are agreed upon
what ought to be done, and yet the Government is expected at once to settle
the question.’ This is the old argument, as if after thirty years’ discussion in
every shape it was not time to settle the question. As if those who undertake
to govern the country were not the men who are bound to find the means of
settling it and allaying the irritation it causes. And as if, instead of no two
persons being agreed upon the subject, all the ablest and wisest men in the
country were not cordially agreed that complete emancipation is the only
remedy for the evils that exist, and that they are opposed by the most
despicable faction which ever existed, animated by the most base and
sordid motives. This letter was read to me as conveying the Duke’s
opinions, which his secretary thought were very sound and sensible, and
which I think evinced a degree of anility quite pitiable, and proves how
little there is to expect from any liberality and good sense on his part.
[11] [Mr. Peel’s confidential letter to the Duke of Wellington, stating his reluctant conviction
that it was indispensably necessary for the Government to change its policy on the Catholic question,
was written on the 11th of August, 1828. The letter is published in Sir Robert Peel’s ‘Posthumous
Memoirs,’ vol. i, p. 189. It is a remarkable circumstance that Mr. Dawson’s speech at Derry was
made just one week afterwards; but there is no evidence that he knew of the change in his brother-in-
law’s opinion. See for further details as to the effect of Dawson’s speech infra.]
[12] [This letter is published in the Duke of Wellington’s ‘Correspondence,’ New Series, vol. iv.
p. 633. The Duke said, ‘Dawson’s speech is too bad. Surely a man who does such things ought to be
put in a strait waistcoat.’ Ibid. p. 636.]

I do not yet know the whole truth of the Lord High Admiral’s
resignation, but it seems that it is not yet certain. Negotiations on the

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subject are still going on. I believe he quarrelled with his council,
particularly Cockburn, and that Government took part with Cockburn. The
Duke of Clarence wants to promote deserving officers, but they oppose it
on account of the expense, and they find in everything great difficulty in
keeping him in order. His resignation will be very unpopular in the navy, for
his system of promotion was more liberal and impartial than that of his
predecessor, whose administration was one perpetual job, and who made
the patronage of the Admiralty instrumental to governing Scotland. Hitherto
the appointments of Government have not been the most judicious—Lord
Belmore to Jamaica, because he is a Lord, and a very dull one; Lord
Strangford to the Brazils, though the Duke knows as well as anybody that
he cannot be trusted, and was recalled by Canning because he said and did
all sorts of things at Constantinople for which he had no authority, and they
found that no reliance whatever DISMISSAL OF THE LORD HIGH ADMIRAL. was to be
placed in him. Lord Stuart de Rothesay, too, is sent back to Paris, though
personally obnoxious to the King and universally disliked.

Stoke, August 25th, 1828
Went to Windsor to-day for a Council and came on here after it. There
were the Chancellor, Peel, Fitzgerald, Ellenborough, Sir G. Murray, the
Archbishop, and Bishop of London, who came to do homage. The King
gave the Chancellor a long audience, and another to Peel, probably to talk
over Dawson’s speech and Orange politics. After the Council the King
called me and talked to me about racehorses, which he cares more about
than the welfare of Ireland or the peace of Europe. We walked over the
Castle, which is nearly finished, but too gaudy. The King told me he would
go to Egham races to-morrow. I talked to Fitzgerald about Dawson’s
speech. He said he believed Dawson had never told the Duke or Peel what
he meant to do, that he thought he was very bold and imprudent. However,
he was glad of it, as it must assist the cause, and the moral effect in Ireland
would be produced before the Duke’s sentiments could be known. Lord
Mount Charles told me the day before yesterday that the reason the Duke of
Clarence had resigned was, that he had in many instances exceeded his
powers, which had produced remonstrances from the Duke of Wellington,
whereupon the Duke of Clarence tendered his resignation, and the Duke

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immediately carried it to the King without asking him to stay.[13]
Afterwards there were some negotiations, when the Duke of Clarence
refused to stay if Cockburn did. They would not, however, part with
Cockburn, but subsequently the Duke shook hands with him and asked him
to dine at Bushy on his birthday. He said that his successor was not
appointed, but it will probably be Lord Melville. The King has not been
well; he goes fishing and dining at Virginia Water, stays out late, and
catches cold.
[13] [A letter from the Duke of Wellington to Sir Robert Peel, dated the 13th of August, 1828,
explains the circumstances that led to the removal of the Duke of Clarence from the office of Lord
High Admiral. This letter is published in the first volume of Sir Robert Peel’s ‘Posthumous Memoirs
on the Catholic Question and the Repeal of the Corn Laws,’ p. 269. The Duke of Wellington says,
‘He behaved very rudely to Cockburn. I saw Cockburn and Croker, and both agreed in stating that the
machine could no longer work.’ In a subsequent letter the Duke added, ‘I quite agree with you that it
is very unfortunate the Duke of Clarence has resigned. I did everything in my power to avoid that
result, excepting give up Cockburn.’ The whole correspondence is published in the fourth volume of
the Duke’s ‘Correspondence,’ New Series.]

August 29th, 1828
Came from Stoke last night. There were the Lievens, Cowper, Lord
Melbourne, Luttrell, Pierre d’Aremberg, Creevy, Russell, Montrond. The
King went to Egham races Tuesday and Thursday, was very well received
and pleased. He was very gracious to me. Madame de Lieven went over to
the Lodge to see Lady Conyngham, who finding she had never seen
Clifden, carried her off there, ordered luncheon and the pony carriage, took
her all over the place, and then carried her back to Salthill, where the King’s
carriage met her and took her back to Virginia Water to dinner. Lieven told
me they had never expected to find this Turkish expedition an easy
business, and had always been prepared for great difficulties, &c., from
which I conclude that they have met with some check. I met Bachelor, the
poor Duke of York’s old servant, and now the King’s valet de chambre, and
he told me some curious things about the interior of the Palace; but he is
coming to call on me, and I will write down what he tells me then. There is
a report that the Admiralty has been offered to Lord Melbourne. I asked him
(at Stoke), and he said he had never heard of it.

Page 160

London, November 25th, 1828
I have not written anything since I left town, because nothing occurred
worth remembering. Yesterday I went to the Council at Windsor. Most of
the Ministers were there, the Recorder, two foreign Ministers, and the Duke
of Clarence. The King seemed to be very well. The Duke of Wellington did
not arrive till late, and before he was come the King sent for Peel and gave
him an audience of two hours at least. I thought there must be something in
the wind, and was struck with Peel’s taking the Duke into one of the
window recesses and talking to him very earnestly as soon as he came out. I
returned to town after the Council, and in the evening went to the play, and
HEALTH AND HABITS OF GEORGE IV. coming out I met Henry de Ros and Frederick
Lamb. The former made me go with him in his carriage, when he told me
what fully explained the cause of Peel’s long audience—that the Duke has
at last made up his mind to carry the Catholic question, and that Peel[14] and
the rest of the violent anti-Catholics are going out; that the Duke’s present
idea is to apply to Huskisson, but that nothing will be done or said till the
Ministers assemble in town and hold their cabinets.
[14] [It had not then transpired, nor was it known until long afterwards, that the proposal to
carry Catholic Emancipation was made by Mr. Peel to the Duke of Wellington on the 11th of August.
Sir Robert Peel states, however, in his ‘Memoir,’ p. 269, ‘At the close of the year 1828 little, if any,
progress had been made in removing the difficulties with which the Duke of Wellington had to
contend;’ and, p. 274, ‘The chief difficulty was the King. At the commencement of the month of
January 1829 his Majesty had not yet signified his consent that the whole subject of Ireland,
including the Catholic question, should be taken into consideration by his confidential servants.’]

He told me also that the French Government have at last agreed to
make common cause with us in preventing the Russians from prosecuting
the war against Turkey.

December 16th, 1828
A Council at Windsor yesterday; very few present, and no audiences
but Aberdeen for three-quarters of an hour and the Duke for five minutes. I
sent for Bachelor and had a long talk with him. He said the King was well,
but weak, his constitution very strong, no malady about him, but irritation
in the bladder which he could not get rid of. He thinks the hot rooms and
want of air and exercise do him harm, and that he is getting every day more

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averse to exercise and more prone to retirement, which, besides that it
weakens his constitution, is a proof that he is beginning to break. Bachelor
thinks he is in no sort of danger; I think he will not live more than two
years. He says that his attendants are quite worn out with being always
about him, and living in such hot rooms (which obliges them to drink) and
seldom getting air and exercise. B. is at present well, but he sits up every
other night with the King and never leaves him. He is in high favour, and
Sir William Knighton is now as civil and obliging to him as he used to be
the reverse. The King instructs him in his duties in the kindest manner, likes
to have him about him, and talks a great deal to him. But his Majesty keeps
everybody at a great distance from him, and all about him are afraid of him,
though he talks to his pages with more openness and familiarity than to
anybody. He thinks Radford (who is dying) is not in such favour as he was,
though he is always there; of O’Reilly the surgeon, who sees the King every
day and carries him all the gossip he can pick up, Bachelor speaks with very
little ceremony. The King told them the other day that ‘O’R. was the
damnedest liar in the world,’ and it seems he is often in the habit of
discussing people in this way to his valets de chambre. He reads a great
deal, and every morning has his boxes brought to him and reads their
contents. They are brought up by Knighton or Watson, both of whom have
keys of all the boxes. He says there is not one person about him whom he
likes—Mount Charles pretty well, Taylor better than anybody, Knighton
constantly there and his influence unbounded; he thinks K. can do anything.

December 20th, 1828
Hyde Villiers called on me ten days ago to give me an account of his
visit to Ireland. He seems to have been intimate with several of the leading
men, particularly Shiel, whom all agree in describing as the cleverest man
of his party. He also saw a good deal of the Lord-Lieutenant;[15] and was
struck by his imprudence and unreserve. He spoke very positively of his
determination not to be a party to any measures contrary to his opinions,
and did not scruple to complain of the little information he received from
the Government here concerning their intentions. He also appears to have
been flattered by O’Connell into entire confidence in him, and told Villiers
that he would trust him implicitly. O’Connell and Shiel detest each other,

Page 162

though Shiel does not oppose him. Lawless detests him too, and he does
everything he can to thwart and provoke him, and opposes him in the
Association[16] upon all occasions. Lately in the affair of the ‘exclusive
dealing’ he CHARACTER OF O’CONNELL. met with such opposition in the
Association that it required a great deal of time and management to get rid
of that proposition, although in the end he carried the matter very
triumphantly. But O’Connell, though opposed by a numerous party in the
Association, is all-powerful in the country, and there is not one individual
who has a chance of supplanting him in the affections of the great mass of
the Catholics. For twenty-five years he has been continually labouring to
obtain that authority and consideration which he possesses without a rival,
and is now so great that they yield unlimited obedience to his individual
will. As an orator he would probably fail in the English House of
Commons; but to a mob, especially an Irish mob, he is perfect, exactly the
style and manner which suits their tastes and comprehensions, and
consequently his success with them is unbounded. He has a large landed
property, is at the head of his profession, an admirable lawyer and manager
of a cause, and never for a moment diverted by political or other
considerations from the due discharge of his professional duties. He is
besides a man of high moral character and great probity in private life, and
has been for years in the habit of affording his professional assistance gratis
to those of his own religion who cannot afford to pay for it. These are some
of the grounds of his popularity, to which may be added his industry and
devotion to the Roman Catholic cause; he rises at three every morning and
goes to bed at eight. He possesses a very retentive memory, and is
particularly strong in historical and constitutional knowledge. The great
object of his ambition is to be at the head of his own profession, and his
favourite project to reform the laws, a task for which he fancies himself
eminently qualified. To accomplish any particular object he cares not to
what charges of partial inconsistency he exposes himself, trusting to his
own ingenuity to exonerate himself from them afterwards. Neither
O’Connell nor Shiel are supposed to be men of courage, but Lawless is, and
he is thought capable of the most desperate adventures. Shiel is of opinion
that the Association might be suppressed by law; O’Connell thinks it could
not, and that if it might legally it could not practically. O’Connell says he
can keep the country quiet another year certainly, Doyle thinks not. Doyle is
a very able man, a man of the world, dislikes O’Connell, but is obliged to

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act in concert with him. Doyle, conscious of his own talents, is deeply
mortified that no field is open for their display, and he is one of those men
who must be eminent in whatever cause they are engaged. Murray[17] is a
clever man, but not so ambitious as Doyle; Francis Leveson is extremely
cautious, cold in his manners, and therefore conciliates no general regard in
Ireland, where they like an exactly opposite character. William Lamb was
popular beyond all precedent, but Francis seems to have avoided giving
offence to either party, which is perhaps as much as could have been
expected from him, and in a country where the rival factions are so
exasperated against each other to be able to preserve a character for
impartiality is no small praise. I wrote to my brother Henry what I have
mentioned under the head of November 21st, and in return he told me that it
was in contemplation to put down the Association, and that the law officers
in Ireland had reported that it was practicable, and their opinion had come
over here, but the decision of the Government had not arrived.
[15] [The Marquis of Anglesey was then Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland.]
[16] [The Catholic Association. The ‘exclusive dealing’ was a pledge required of members of
the Association not to deal with Orangemen.]
[17] [Dr. Murray, Roman Catholic Archbishop of Dublin. Lord Francis Leveson (afterwards
Lord Francis Egerton and Earl of Ellesmere), Mr. Greville’s brother-in-law, was then Irish Secretary.
William Lamb, afterwards Lord Melbourne, had preceded him in that office. Henry Greville held a
place at the Vice-Regal Court.]

I very soon saw enough to satisfy me that the Duke is endeavouring to
prevail on Peel to stay in office, and his repeated conferences with the
Bishop of Oxford and other bishops are enough to prove that he is
negotiating with the Church, but nothing transpires of his intentions. Not
one word has been said to Huskisson or any of his friends. My belief is that
in that long conference at Windsor the King tried to prevail on Peel not to
go; since which discussions between Peel, the Duke, and the Bishop have
been going on to see how the matter can be arranged so as to make Peel’s
acquiescence palatable to the Church and the Brunswickers, LORD BELMORE
GOVERNOR OF JAMAICA. and perhaps to engage the Duke to modify his intended

measures accordingly. This is conjecture. The Duke is gone to Wootton and
to Middleton; he is always going about.

Page 164

December 21st, 1828
A few days ago I saw Lord Belmore just as he was setting out for
Jamaica. I went to talk to him about my plan.[18] He was very civil and said
he would do all that depended upon him. He does not seem to be bright, but
whatever his talents may be, he seems to be left to the free exercise of them,
for he told me that he felt his situation to be one of some difficulty, never
having received any instructions (except of course the formal instructions
given to every governor in writing) as to his conduct from the Secretary of
State, having had no conversation with any of the authorities about the state
of the colony, nor any intimation of their views and intentions in respect to
the principal matters of interest there. He said that as the Assembly of
Jamaica is now sitting, he had proposed to postpone his departure till the
end of their session, when the Bills they passed would come over here, and
he might discuss them with the Government and learn their sentiments and
wishes as to the course he should adopt; a very sensible proposition. But he
received for answer that he had better go now, for that when these Bills
came over here Parliament would be sitting, and Government would not
have leisure to attend to the affairs of Jamaica. And this is the way our
colonies are governed! Stephen,[19] to whom I told this, said he was not
surprised, for that Sir George Murray did nothing—never wrote a despatch
—had only once since he has been in office seen Taylor, who has got all the
West Indies under his care.
[18] [Mr. Greville held the office of Secretary of the Island of Jamaica. The duties of the office
were performed by a deputy paid by the Secretary out of the fees received in the island. He never
visited Jamaica, and the office held on these conditions was a sinecure; but he occasionally took part
in the affairs of Jamaica in this country. The ‘plan’ alluded to in this passage is unknown to me.
Somerset, second Earl of Belmore, had just been appointed Governor of Jamaica at this time.]
[19] [James Stephen, Esq., then law adviser of the Colonial Office, and afterwards Under-
Secretary of State for the Colonies. Mr. Henry Taylor, the accomplished author of ‘Philip von
Artevelde,’ was at the head of the West India department of the office. Sir George Murray was
Secretary of State.]

I might as well have put in on the 25th of November what the King
said to me, as it seems to have amused everybody. I was standing close to
him at the Council, and he put down his head and whispered, ‘Which are
you for, Cadland or the mare?’ (meaning the match between Cadland and
Bess of Bedlam); so I put my head down too and said, ‘The horse;’ and then
as we retired he said to the Duke, ‘A little bit of Newmarket.’

Page 165

December 30th, 1828
Hyde Villiers brought me on Thursday or Friday last a copy of the
Duke’s letter to Dr. Curtis,[20] which had been sent to him from Dublin
under strict injunction of not showing it. The next day it appeared in all the
newspapers, O’Connell having read it to the Association. It has made a
great noise, and being as usual ambiguous, both parties affect to consider it
to be in their favour. I fancy the Duke is very angry at its publication, at
least judging from what his secretaries say.
[20] [The Duke of Wellington had corresponded with Dr. Curtis, the titular Roman Catholic
Primate of Ireland, for many years. Indeed, as appears in the text, he had known him long before at
Salamanca, when this prelate was at the Irish College there. Several excellent letters by Dr. Curtis to
the Duke are published in the second volume of the Duke’s ‘Correspondence,’ New Series. The letter
adverted to in the text was that in which the Duke said (not very wisely) that ‘if men could bury the
subject (of Catholic Emancipation) in oblivion for a short time, it might be possible to discover a
satisfactory remedy.’ Curtis put a copy of the letter in O’Connell’s hands, and he read it aloud at the
Catholic Association. Curtis sent a copy of the letter and his own reply to the Lord-Lieutenant, who
answered him in another letter, in which he said that ‘he did not before know the precise sentiments
of the Duke upon the present state of the Catholic question.’ This letter was also made public, and
added fuel to the flames.]

The word the in the first paragraph was substituted for a, and this
alteration these blockheads pretend makes a great difference in the sense. It
makes none, and is only worthy of remark because they probably echo what
he has said. It is clear enough as to his opinion, but nothing more. Curtis
was in Spain and imprisoned by the French at Salamanca. After the battle
the Duke delivered him and had a good deal RECALL OF LORD ANGLESEY. of
communication with him. He returned to Ireland, and from that period has
been in occasional correspondence with the Duke. Curtis had written him a
long letter, desiring information about his intentions, and this was the
answer. A few days ago Hyde Villiers called on the Duke and placed in his
hands the resolutions which were agreed to by a committee of the general
meeting to be held in Dublin next month. He took them, but said he must
decline saying anything; as Minister of the Crown he could not say a word,
as whatever he did must be done in conjunction with his colleagues and
with the King; that there was a disposition to draw inferences from
everything, as, for example, that a gentleman he had known in Spain had
written to him on the subject, and his answer had been handed about, and
all sorts of inferences drawn from it, which was very inconvenient, and

Page 166

proved how cautious he must be. No doubt it was the Curtis correspondence
to which he alluded.

Page 167

1829.

January 2nd, 1829
Lord Anglesey was recalled last Sunday. The Duke of Wellington came
to see my mother either Saturday or Sunday last, and told her he had been
with the King three hours the day before, talking to him about Lord A., that
his Majesty was furious with him, thought he took upon himself as if he
were King of Ireland, and was indignant at all he said and all he did. The
Duke talked a great deal about him, but did not say he was recalled, though
his manner was such that he left an impression that he had something in his
mind which he would not let out. He gave it to be understood, however, that
he had been endeavouring to appease the King, and that Lord A.’s recall
was insisted on by his Majesty against his (the Duke’s) desire. I enquired
warmly whether he had asserted or only implied this, because I don’t
believe one word of it. I was told that he had only implied it, but had left
that impression. But the Duke complained of Lord A.’s conduct to himself;
that he had at first written him insolent letters, and latterly had hardly ever
written to him at all. My belief is that the Duke has for some time wished to
get rid of Lord Anglesey, that these Cabinets have been upon this subject,
and that his recall was settled there. As to the King’s dictation and the
Duke’s submission, I don’t believe a word of it. It has been clear to me for
some time that the Irish Government could not remain in Lord Anglesey’s
hands. I am very sorry for it, for I think it will have a bad effect, and have
little hope of its being followed by any measures likely to counteract the
evil it immediately occasions.

January 4th, 1829
I have seen letters from Dublin stating that the immediate cause of the
recall was a letter which Lord Anglesey had written to the Duke (but what
that was I have not ascertained), and that his imprudence was so great it was

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impossible he could have gone on. Certainly the writing and then
publishing this letter of Curtis’ is an enormous act of indiscretion. The
consternation in Dublin seems to have been great, and Henry says that if
Lord A. does not decline all demonstrations of popular feeling towards him,
he will leave Ireland as Lord Fitzwilliam did, attended by the whole
population. Yesterday I asked Fitzgerald[21] if it was true that Lord A. was
recalled. He put on a long face, and said ‘he did not know; recalled he
certainly was not.’ I saw he was not disposed to be communicative, so I said
no more; he, however, began again of his own accord, and asked me
whether I thought, in the event of Lord A.’s coming away, that Francis
Leveson would remain. I told him under what conditions he had taken the
place, viz. that he was only to stay while Lord A. did; that circumstances
might make a difference, but that I knew nothing. He said he had done
remarkably well, given great satisfaction, and shown great discretion in a
difficult situation; that the rock Lord A. had split upon was his vanity.
[21] [Right Hon. Vesey Fitzgerald, then President of the Board of Trade. He was raised to the
peerage of the United Kingdom in 1835, as Baron Fitzgerald and Vesci.]

January 5th, 1829
The exact history of what took place in Dublin is as follows:—Lord
Anglesey first of all desired RECALL OF LORD ANGLESEY. George Villiers would get
his letter to Dr. Curtis inserted in the newspaper. He took it to Shiel, who
agreed to write as good an article as he could to go with it, and then he went
to Dr. Murray to inform him (as Dr. Curtis’s friend) of the intended
publication, as Curtis himself was absent, and his consent ought to have
been previously obtained. He went afterwards to the Phoenix Park, and
Lord Anglesey laid the whole case and correspondence before him. Some
time ago the Duke wrote to Lord Anglesey proposing that O’Gorman
Mahon and Steele should be removed from the Commission of the Peace on
account of their conduct to the Sheriff of Clare. Lord Anglesey wrote word
that the subject had engaged his attention, and he had laid the case before
the law officers, who had reported to him that there were no grounds for
any legal proceedings against them. ‘How, therefore,’ said the Lord-
Lieutenant, ‘could I degrade men against whom my law officers advised me
that no charge could be brought?’ This was one offence; and another, that he

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had countenanced Lord Cloncurry, who, being a member of the Association,
was unworthy to receive the King’s representative and the Chancellor. Lord
Anglesey warmly defended Lord Cloncurry as a magistrate and a man, and
appealed to his known loyalty and respect for the King as a proof that he
would never have done anything derogatory to his own situation. The
Duke’s letter he described to have been overbearing and insolent, Lord
Anglesey’s[22] temperate, but firm. Lord Anglesey declares that these were
all the grounds of offence he had given. Five weeks elapsed, during which
he heard nothing from the Duke, and at the end of that time he received his
letter of recall, conceived nearly in these words:—‘My dear Lord Anglesey,
—I am aware of the impropriety of having allowed your letter to remain so
long unanswered, but I wished to consult my colleagues, who were out of
town. I have now done so, and they concur with me that with such a
difference of opinion between the King’s Minister and the Lord-Lieutenant
of Ireland the government of that country could not be conducted by you
with advantage to the public service. I have therefore taken the King’s
pleasure on the subject, and he commands me to inform you that you will
be immediately relieved from your government. I will give you the earliest
information of the arrangement which will be made in consequence.
Believe me, &c.’ This is nearly the letter.[23] From Lord Anglesey George
Villiers went to Shiel, and with him to O’Connell, to whom Lord A. desired
he would communicate the event. O’Connell was dreadfully dejected, so
much so that Shiel and G. Villiers were glad to go home and dine with him
in order to calm him. They at length succeeded in doing so, and made him
engage to abstain from any discussion of the recall in the Association the
next day (a promise which he did not keep). Shiel made a very fine speech
in the Association. Nothing, they say, can exceed the general feeling on the
subject, and Lord Anglesey appears to be acting with great dignity and
reserve; he wishes to decline all popular honours, and he put off going to
the play, which he was to have done.
[22] [The correspondence of Lord Anglesey with the Duke of Wellington on these charges is
now published in the ‘Wellington Correspondence,’ New Series, vol. v. p. 244.]
[23] [The letter itself is now published in the ‘Wellington Correspondence,’ New Series, vol. v.
p. 366. Mr. Greville’s version of it differs in no material point from the original, though the language
is slightly altered.]

Page 170

January 7th, 1829
The Duke wrote to Francis Leveson to say he must not be surprised to
hear that a letter would reach Lord Anglesey by that day’s post, conveying
to him his recall; that the King was so furious with him that he said he
would make any sacrifice rather than allow him to remain there five
minutes longer. His Secretary had repeatedly remonstrated with the Lord-
Lieutenant on his imprudent language in Ireland, and on the tone of his
letters to the Duke, but that he always defended both on principle. The
Duke said that his letters were most offensive towards him, yet he
continued to declare that he should have been glad to keep Lord Anglesey
on but for the King. The Lord-Lieutenant did not go to the play, but THE KING
AND THE CATHOLIC QUESTION. his family did, and were received with great
applause, although the pit was full of Orangemen. Lord Melville has
refused the Lord-Lieutenancy.

January 11th, 1829
When George Villiers sent me the accounts of what had passed in
Ireland about Lord Anglesey’s letter to Curtis I wrote him a long letter, in
which I told him why I thought the letter and its publication were
unjustifiable and indiscreet, and particularly cautioned him against
connecting himself much with the agitator, on account of the harm it would
do him here. He wrote me a long answer, defending Lord Anglesey and his
measures, but I do not think he makes out a case for him, and if the Lord-
Lieutenant makes in the House of Lords the defence which he proposes to
make I think he will fail; but if he can keep Lord Plunket on his side, who is
now said to be very eager about him, he will do. Plunket is under the
influence of Blake, who keeps, as George Villiers says, ‘Lord Plunket’s
mind in his breeches’ pocket.’ Lord Anglesey has behaved very well since
the quarrel, declining all honours and expressions of public feeling.

January 12th, 1829

Page 171

Lord Mount Charles came to me this morning and consulted me about
resigning his seat at the Treasury. He hates it and is perplexed with all that
has occurred between the Duke and Lord Anglesey. I advised him to resign,
feeling as he does about it. He told me that he verily believed the King
would go mad on the Catholic question, his violence was so great about it.
He is very angry with him and his father for voting as they do, but they
have agreed never to discuss the matter at all, and his mother never talks to
the King about it. Whenever he does get on it there is no stopping him.
Mount Charles attributes the King’s obstinacy to his recollections of his
father and the Duke of York and to the influence of the Duke of
Cumberland. He says that ‘his father would have laid his head on the block
rather than yield, and that he is equally ready to lay his head there in the
same cause.’ He is furious with Lord Anglesey, but he will be very much
afraid of him when he sees him. Mount Charles was in the room when Lord
Anglesey took leave of the King on going to Ireland, and the King said,
‘God bless you, Anglesey! I know you are a true Protestant.’ Anglesey
answered, ‘Sir, I will not be considered either Protestant or Catholic; I go to
Ireland determined to act impartially between them and without the least
bias either one way or the other.’ Lord Anglesey dined with Mount Charles
the day before he went. The same morning he had been with the Duke and
Peel to receive their last instructions, and he came to dinner in great delight
with them, as they had told him they knew he would govern Ireland with
justice and impartiality, and they would give him no instructions whatever.
He showed me a letter from Mr. Harcourt Lees full of invectives against the
Duke and lamentations at the recall, to show how the Protestants regretted
him as well as the Catholics.
He then talked to me about Knighton, whom the King abhors with a
detestation that could hardly be described. He is afraid of him, and that is
the reason he hates him so bitterly. When alone with him he is more civil,
but when others are present (the family, for instance) he delights in saying
the most mortifying and disagreeable things to him. He would give the
world to get rid of him, and to have either Taylor or Mount Charles instead,
to whom he has offered the place over and over again, but Mount Charles
not only would not hear of it, but often took Knighton’s part with the King.
He says that his language about Knighton is sometimes of the most
unmeasured violence—wishes he was dead, and one day when the door was

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open, so that the pages could hear, he said, ‘I wish to God somebody would
assassinate Knighton.’ In this way he always speaks of him and uses him.
Knighton is greatly annoyed at it, and is very seldom there. Still it appears
there is some secret chain which binds them together, and which compels
the King to submit to the presence of a man whom he detests, and induces
Knighton to remain in spite of so much hatred and ill-usage. The King’s
indolence is so great that it is next to impossible to get him to do even the
most ordinary business, and Knighton is still the only man who can prevail
on CHARACTER OF GEORGE IV. him to sign papers, &c. His greatest delight is to
make those who have business to transact with him, or to lay papers before
him, wait in his anteroom while he is lounging with Mount Charles or
anybody, talking of horses or any trivial matter; and when he is told, ‘Sir,
there is Watson waiting,’ &c., he replies, ‘Damn Watson; let him wait.’ He
does it on purpose, and likes it.
This account corresponds with all I have before heard, and confirms
the opinion I have long had that a more contemptible, cowardly, selfish,
unfeeling dog does not exist than this King, on whom such flattery is
constantly lavished. He has a sort of capricious good-nature, arising
however out of no good principle or good feeling, but which is of use to
him, as it cancels in a moment and at small cost a long score of misconduct.
Princes have only to behave with common decency and prudence, and they
are sure to be popular, for there is a great and general disposition to pay
court to them. I do not know anybody who is proof against their seductions
when they think fit to use them in the shape of civility and condescension.
The great consolation in all this is the proof that, so far from deriving
happiness from their grandeur, they are the most miserable of all mankind.
The contrast between their apparent authority and the contradictions which
they practically meet with must be peculiarly galling, more especially to
men whose minds are seldom regulated, as other men’s are, by the
beneficial discipline of education and early collision with their equals.
There have been good and wise kings, but not many of them. Take them one
with another they are of an inferior character, and this I believe to be one of
the worst of the kind. The littleness of his character prevents his displaying
the dangerous faults that belong to great minds, but with vices and
weaknesses of the lowest and most contemptible order it would be difficult
to find a disposition more abundantly furnished.

Page 173

January 16th, 1829
I went to Windsor to a Council yesterday. There were the Duke, the
Lord Chancellor, Chancellor of the Exchequer, Master of the Mint, Lord
President, Lord Aberdeen, Peel, Melville, Ellenborough. The King kept us
waiting rather longer than usual. He looked very well, and was dressed in a
blue great coat, all over gold frogs and embroidery. Lord Liverpool was
there to give up the late Lord’s Garter, and had an audience. He said to me
afterwards that the King had asked him all sorts of questions about his
family concerns, with which he seemed extraordinarily well acquainted, and
to some of which he was puzzled to give an answer. The King is the greatest
master of gossip in the world, and his curiosity about everybody’s affairs is
insatiable. I spoke to Peel about the Council books,[24] which are in the
State Paper Office, and he promised they should be restored to the Council
Office.
[24] [At the fire which took place at Whitehall in 1619 several volumes of the ‘Council
Register’ were lost or dispersed. Some of these missing volumes were in the State Paper Office, and
two are still in the British Museum.]

Just before I set off to Windsor I heard from Ireland, and this is an
extract of the letter:—‘Lord Anglesey received a letter from Peel this
morning to the effect “that as he had written and published a letter such as
no Lord-Lieutenant was justified in writing, it was his Majesty’s pleasure
that Lords Justices should be immediately appointed.” Francis found him
very smiling and glorious, but angry, and declaring that he would do just the
same again if he had to choose his line of conduct.’
À propos of Denman’s silk gown, Mount Charles told me the other day
that Denman wrote a most humble apology to the King, notwithstanding
which the Duke of Wellington had great trouble in mollifying him. At last
he consented, but wrote himself on the document that in consideration of
his humble apology his Majesty forgave him, as he thought it became the
King to forgive a subject, but desired this note might be preserved in the
Treasury, where Mount Charles says it now is.[25]
[25] [This curious correspondence has now been published in the fifth volume of the Duke of
Wellington’s ‘Despatches,’ New Series, pp. 117 and 153. The cause of the quarrel was a Greek
quotation from Dion which Denman had introduced into one of his speeches at the Queen’s trial. In
the King’s answer to the memorial (which answer was drawn up by the Duke of Wellington) the
following passage occurs:—

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‘The King could not believe that the Greek quotation referred to had occurred to the mind of the
advocate in the eagerness and heat of his argument, nor that it was not intended, nor that it had not
been sought for and suggested for the purpose of applying to the person of the Sovereign a gross
insinuation.’ Denman, however, prayed his Majesty to believe that ‘no such insinuation was ever
made by him, that the idea of it never entered his mind,’ &c.
The truth about this quotation is this:—During the Queen’s trial Dr. Parr, who was a warm
supporter of the Queen and an intimate friend of Denman, employed himself in ransacking books for
quotations which might be used in the defence. Thus he lit in Bayle’s Dictionary, article ‘Octavia,’
upon the answer made by Pythias, one of the slaves of Octavia, to Tigellinus, when he was torturing
the slaves of the Empress in order to convict her of adultery. The same answer occurs in substance in
Tacitus’ ‘Annals,’ book xiv. cap. 60. This Parr sent to Denman, and Denman used it in his speech.
The fact is, therefore, that the quotation had been ‘sought for and suggested’ for the express purpose
of saying something personally offensive to the King. The King’s resentment against Denman did not
end here as will be seen lower down, where he refused to receive the Recorder’s report through the
Common Serjeant.]

January 21st, 1829
The sealed orders with which the ships STATE OF RUSSIA. have sailed from
Plymouth, were orders to prevent the Portuguese (who have been sent
away) from landing at Terceira.
Lady Westmeath was the woman meant in the article in the ‘Times’
from Ireland about the pension to which Lord Anglesey would not agree.
The story is very true. There was 700ℓ. disposable on the Pension Fund, and
the Duke of Wellington desired 400ℓ. might be given to Lady Westmeath,
which Lord Anglesey and the Secretary both protested against, and were
resolved to resign rather than agree to it. They wrote to the Duke such
strong remonstrances that he appears to have desisted from the design, for
they heard no more of it. It is therefore false that this had anything to do
with the recall, though it is by no means improbable that it served to
alienate the Duke from the Marquis and to make him desire the more to get
rid of him. This happened as long ago as last August, I think.
Yesterday the Duke dined with us, in very good spirits, and agreeable
as he always is, though not so communicative and free as he used to be. He
had never told Francis Leveson about the Duke of Northumberland[26] till
Sunday, when he wrote to announce the appointment. His Grace seems
mightily pleased with it, and fancies that his figure and his fortune are more

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than enough to make him a very good Lord-Lieutenant. He says he was
obliged to coax him a little to get him to accept it.
[26] [Hugh, third Duke of Northumberland, was declared Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland on the
recall of Lord Anglesey.]

He said that he was on the best terms with France, talked of Russia and
her losses in the war, adding that the notion of her power was at an end. He
believed that the Russians were numerically as strong as the Turks in the
last campaign, and they were much more numerous than they said: first,
because they said they were not so; and secondly, that he had other reasons
for believing it; he thought they had begun the campaign with 160,000 men
and had lost 120,000.[27] They were talking of St. Petersburg and its
palaces. The Duke said that the fortunes of the great Russian nobles—the
Tolstoys, &c.—were so diminished that they lived in corners of their great
palaces; but this was owing to the division of property and the great military
colonies, by which the Crown lands were absorbed, and the Emperors had
no longer the means of enriching the nobles by enormous donations as
formerly. When to these circumstances are added the amelioration of the
condition of the serfs, and the spirit of general improvement, and the
growth of Liberal ideas, generated by intercommunication with the rest of
Europe, it is impossible to doubt that a revolution must overtake Russia
within a short period, and probably the Emperor has undertaken this war in
order to give vent to the restless humours which are beginning to work. I
said so to Lord Bathurst, and he replied that ‘he thought so too, but that the
present Emperor was a man of great firmness,’ as if any individual authority
or character could stem the torrent of determined action impelled by
universal revolution of feeling and opinion. THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER I. He said
the late Emperor was so well aware of this that he died of the vexation it
had caused him, which was aggravated by the reflection that he was in great
measure himself the cause of it. He was so bit by Liberal opinions, and so
delighted with the effects he saw in other countries flowing from the
diffusion of intelligence and freedom, that he wished to engraft these
dangerous exotics upon the rude and unprepared soil of his own slavish
community. When he went to Oxford he was so captivated with the
venerable grandeur of that University that he declared he would build one
when he got home, and it is equally true that he said he ‘would have an
Opposition.’ These follies were engendered in the brain of a very intelligent

Page 176

man by the mixture of such crudities with an unbounded volition, and the
whole fermented by a lively imagination and a sincere desire to confer great
benefits on his country.
[27] [This seems an extraordinary statement, but it shows how well informed the Duke was. In
Major von Moltke’s narrative of the campaign of 1828 he estimates the average force of the Russian
army at 100,000. But from May 1828 to February 1829 no less than 210,108 men passed through the
hospitals, or died in them. So that, as Moltke remarks, in the course of those ten months every man in
his army was twice in hospital. Never did an army suffer more severely from sickness.]

January 25th, 1829
Lord Anglesey’s departure from Dublin was very fine, and his answer
to the addresses good. I fancy George Villiers had some hand in penning
them. The Duke when he dined with us the other day said that a Russian
Extraordinary Ambassador was coming here to overhaul Lieven, a M.
Matuscewitz. He is the principal writer in their Foreign Office, a clever
man. Their despatches are more able than they used to be, but the Duke said
that the Turkish offices are better conducted than any, and the Turkish
Ministers extremely able. Lord Bathurst told me he had lately read the
minutes of a conversation between the Reis-Effendi and the Allied
Ministers after the battle of Navarino, when they were ignorant whether the
Turk had received intelligence of the event, and that his superiority over
them was exceedingly striking. This was the conference in which when they
asked him ‘supposing such an event had happened, what he should say to
it,’ he replied ‘that in his country they never named a child till its sex was
ascertained.’
Everybody thinks the appointment of the Duke of Northumberland a
very good one, and that the Duke is in great luck to get him. It is surprising
that he should have consented to go, but he probably likes to do something
and display his magnificence. He is a very good sort of man, with a very
narrow understanding, an eternal talker, and prodigious bore. The Duchess
is a more sensible woman, and amiable and good-humoured. He is
supposed to be ruled in all things by her advice; he has no political
opinions, and though he has hitherto voted against the Catholics, he is one
of the people who pin their faith on the Duke, and who are made to vote in
any way and upon anything as he may please to desire them.

Page 177

This pension of Lady Westmeath’s makes a great noise, and it is
generally believed that when Lord Anglesey refused to grant it the Duke got
the King’s sign manual for it, and the job was done. The truth is that Lord
Anglesey had at first refused, or rather expressed his disapprobation, and
asked the Duke if the King had commanded it, to which the Duke sent an
angry answer that he might have been sure he should not have
recommended it but by the King’s commands. M—— told me the pension
(400ℓ.) was granted four months ago, for he signed the warrant himself.
Polignac is gone to Paris, but the Duke thinks not to be Minister.
Polignac told him that he wished to return here, as he thought he could do
more good here than there.
Yesterday I went with Amyot to the State Paper Office to look after my
Council books. I found one book belonging to my office and nearly thirty
volumes of the ‘Register of the Council of State,’[28] which I mean to ask
for, but which I suppose they will refuse. Amyot suggests that as all the acts
of the Council of State were illegal and of no authority they cannot be
considered as belonging to the Council Office, and are merely historical
records without an official character. I shall try, however, to get them. Mr.
Lemon showed us a great many curious papers. When he first had the care
of the State papers they were in the greatest confusion, and he has been
diligently employed in reducing them to order. THE STATE PAPER OFFICE. Every
day has brought to light documents of importance and interest which as
they are successively found are classed and arranged and rendered
disposable for literary and historical purposes.

Page 178

[28] [Of the time of the Commonwealth. The ‘Privy Council Register’ extends from the last
years of Henry VIII. to the present time, not including the Commonwealth.]

Lemon has found papers relating to the Powder Plot alone sufficient to
make two quarto volumes, exceedingly curious; all Garnett’s original
papers, and I hope hereafter they will be published.[29] We saw the famous
letter to Lord Mounteagle, of which Lemon said he had, he thought,
discovered the author. It has been attributed to Mrs. Abington, Lord
Mounteagle’s sister, but he thinks it was written by Mrs. Vaux, who was a
friend of hers, and mistress, probably, of Garnett; it is to her that many of
Garnett’s letters are addressed. It seems that Mrs. Vaux and Mrs. Abington
were both present at the great meeting of the conspirators at Hendlip, and
he thinks that the latter, desirous of saving her brother’s life, prevailed on
Mrs. Vaux to write the letter, for the handwriting exactly corresponds with
some other writing of hers which he has seen. There is a remarkable paper
written by King James with directions what questions should be put to Guy
Faux, and ending with a recommendation that he should be tortured first
gently, and then more severely as might be necessary. Then the depositions
of Faux in the Tower, which had been taken down (contrary to his desire) in
writing, and which he was compelled to sign upon the rack; his signature
was written in faint and trembling characters, and his strength had evidently
failed in the middle, for he had only written ‘Guido.’ There is a distinct
admission in the Plot papers in Garnett’s own hand that he came to a
knowledge of the Plot otherwise than by the Sacrament of Confession,
which oversets Lingard; a paragraph by which it is clear that the Pope knew
of it; and a curious paper in which, having sworn that he had never written
certain letters, which letters were produced when he was taxed with the
false oath, Garnett boldly justifies himself, and says that they ought not to
have questioned him on the subject, having the letters in their hands, and
that he had a right to deny what he believed they could not prove—a very
remarkable exposition of the tenets of his order and the doctrines of
equivocation.
[29] [The substance of these papers has since been published by the late David Jardine, Esq., in
his excellent ‘Narrative of the Gunpowder Plot.’ (Murray, London, 1857.) Some of the particulars
here referred to by Mr. Greville are not strictly accurate, or at least have not been confirmed by
subsequent investigation. It is not probable that the letter to Lord Mounteagle was written by Mrs.
Abington or by Mrs. Vaux, nor is it at all certain that either of these ladies had any knowledge of the
Plot. Mr. Jardine ascribes the letter to Tresham (‘Narrative,’ &c., p. 83). Garnett’s admissions are
printed in Jardine’s Appendix. His knowledge of the Plot was derived from Greenway, a priest to

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whom Catesby had revealed it in confession. The Pope was probably not privy to the Plot. The
celebrated ‘Treatise on Equivocation’ was found in Tresham’s desk. The identical copy with Garnett’s
notes is still in the Bodleian; it was reprinted in 1851.]

When I came away from the State Paper Office I met George Dawson,
and we had a long conversation about Irish affairs, from which I gathered
what is to be done. The Catholic question is to be conceded, the elective
franchise altered, and the Association suppressed. This latter is, I take it, to
be a preliminary measure, and I suspect the Duke went to the King on
Monday with the resolution of the Cabinet on the subject, and I think so the
more because the Archbishop was sent for post-haste just before he went.
Dawson talked to me a great deal about his speech at Derry, and said that so
many of his friends were aware of the change in his opinions that he
thought it more fair and manly to declare them at once in public than to use
any dissimulation with his constituents and leave them to be guessed at, as
if he dared not own them; that he had made a great sacrifice, for he had
risked his seat, which was very secure before, and had quarrelled with Peel,
with his family, and with all his old political friends and associates. We
talked a great deal about Peel, and I see clearly that he has given way;
probably they have compromised the business, and he agrees to the
Emancipation part, in order to have the Association suppressed and the 40s.
freeholders disfranchised. Lord Anglesey always said that his removal
would facilitate the business, for the Duke wished to have all the credit of it
to himself, and had no NAVARINO. mind to divide it with him, whereas if Lord
Anglesey had remained the chief credit would have fallen to his share.
I met Sir Edward Codrington in the morning, and walked with him to
Downing Street, where he was going to talk to the Duke about his Navarino
business. He is mightily incensed, thinks he has been scandalously used
both by Dudley and Aberdeen, is ready to tell his story and show his
documents to anybody, and says he is resolved the whole matter shall come
out, and in the House of Commons if he can produce it. God knows how his
case will turn out, but I never saw a man so well satisfied with himself. He
says that the action at Navarino was, as an achievement, nothing to the
affair at Patras, when with one line-of-battle ship, one frigate, and a corvette
he drove before him Ibrahim and four Turkish admirals and a numerous
fleet.

Page 180

February 4th, 1829
Went to Middleton last Friday; very few people. I returned by Oxford,
and called on Dr. Bandinell, who took me to the Bodleian. I could not find
any Council books, but I had not much time to devote to the search. Dr.
Bandinell promised to inform me if he could find any books or manuscripts
relating to my office. I was surprised to find in the Bodleian a vast number
of books (manuscripts) which had belonged to Pepys. I came to town on
Monday night, and found that the concession of Catholic Emancipation was
generally known; the ‘Times’ had an article on Friday which clearly
announced it. The rage and despair of the Orange papers is very amusing. I
have not yet heard how the King took it all. Glad as I am that the measure is
going to be carried, the conduct of all those who are to assist in it (the old
anti-Catholics) seems to me despicable to the greatest degree; having
opposed it against all reason and common sense for years past, now that the
Duke of Wellington lifts up his finger they all obey, and without any excuse
for their past or present conduct. The most agreeable event, if it turns out to
be true, is the defection of Dr. Philpots, whose conduct and that of others of
his profession will probably not be without its due effect in sapping the
foundations of the Church. All the details that I have yet learnt confirm my
opinion that the spirit in which the Duke and his colleagues approach this
great measure is not that of calm and deliberate political reasoning, but a
fearful sense of necessity and danger, to which they submit with extreme
repugnance and with the most miserable feelings of pique and mortification
at being compelled to adopt it. The Duke and Peel wrote to Francis
Leveson, complaining of my brother’s having met Shiel at dinner, and they
were so enraged with George Villiers[30] that they seriously meditated
turning him out of his office. Wretched and contemptible to the greatest
degree! They are now exceedingly annoyed because it is discovered that
Woulffe was once a member of the Association, and would willingly have
him turned out of the place of Assistant-Barrister, which has just been given
to him; but Francis is resolved to maintain him in it. They say the Duke sent
a copy of the King’s Speech to Lord Eldon.
[30] [Mr. George Villiers, then an Irish Commissioner of Customs (afterwards Earl of
Clarendon), had cultivated the society of Shiel and invited him to dinner. Such an attention from an
English official to an Irish Catholic was at that time an unheard-of innovation. Shiel told his host that
he had never dined in a Protestant house before. The Duke of Wellington took great umbrage at what
he considered an unwarrantable breach of official decorum.]

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February 5th, 1829
Went to Brookes’ yesterday, and found all the Whigs very merry at the
Catholic news. Most of them were just come to town and had heard nothing
till they arrived. The old Tories dreadfully dejected, but obliged to own it
was all true; intense curiosity to hear what Peel will say for himself. The
general opinion seems to be that the Duke has managed the matter
extremely well, which I am disposed to think too, but there is always a
disposition to heap praise upon him whenever it is possible. Nobody yet
knows who are converted and who are not; they talk of nine bishops; I think
he will have them all, and I expect a very great majority in the House of
Lords. Many people expect that Wilmot’s plan will be adopted, restraining
the Catholics from voting in matters concerning the Church, which I do not
believe, for Wilmot is at a discount and his CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. plan is absurd
and impracticable. Lord Harrowby, however, is all for it. I hear many of the
Liberals are exceedingly provoked, and not unnaturally, at the Duke’s
effecting this measure, at which they have been so long labouring in vain,
and give as many spiteful flings at him as they can about the insincerity of
his letter to Curtis. It matters very little now whether he was sincere or not.
It evidently was part of his plan to keep it all secret till it was matured, and
as Curtis chose to ask him questions he was quite right to throw dust in his
eyes.

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CHAPTER V.
The Catholic Relief Bill — Inconsistency of the Tories — The
Catholic Association — Dinner at Charles Grant’s — The
Terceira Expedition — Tory Discontent — Peel resigns his Seat
for Oxford University — A Blunder in Chancery — The Oxford
Election — Influence of the Duke of Wellington — Debate of
Royal Dukes — Peel beaten — Sir Edward Codrington —
Violence of the King — Intrigues to defeat the Catholic Bill —
The Duke of Cumberland — Furious State of Parties —
Matuscewitz — Peel’s Speech on Catholic Emancipation —
Exclusion of O’Connell from his Seat for Clare — Pitt’s View of
Catholic Emancipation — ‘Musæ Cateatonenses’ — ‘Thorough’
— Mr. Lowther not turned out — Duke of Newcastle’s
Audience of George IV. — The King’s Personal Habits — The
Debate — Mr. Sadler — Hardness of the Duke of Wellington —
His Duel with Lord Winchelsea — The Bishops and the Bill —
Sir Charles Wetherell — The King on the Duel — Lord
Winchelsea’s Pocket-handkerchief — Debate on the Catholic
Bill — The Duke of Richmond — Effects of Dawson’s Speech
on the King — The Bill in Jeopardy — Lady Jersey and Lord
Anglesey — Lord Falmouth and Lord Grey — O’Connell at
Dinner — The Duke breaks with Lord Eldon — Hibner the
Murderess — Theatrical Fund — The Levee — The Duke’s
Carriage stopped — The King’s Health — Lady Conyngham —
O’Connell’s Seat — Child’s Ball at Court — Princess Victoria
— Legal Appointments — Lord Palmerston on Foreign Affairs
— The King and Lord Sefton — The King’s Speech on the
Prorogation — Madame du Cayla — George IV.’s Inaccuracy
— Conversation of the Duke of Wellington on the King and the
Duke of Cumberland.

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February 6th, 1829
Parliament met yesterday; a very full attendance and intense interest
and curiosity. The King’s Speech, which was long and better written than
usual, was not quite satisfactory to the Catholics. I met Lord Harrowby
coming from the House of Lords, and he said they did not like it at all; the
previous suppression of the Association was what they disliked. However,
all discontent was removed by Peel’s speech, which was deemed (as to the
intentions of Ministers) perfectly satisfactory even by those PEEL’S SPEECH ON
THE CATHOLIC BILL. who were most prejudiced before against Government. I
was in the House of Commons. Peel was very feeble, and his case for
himself poor and ineffective; all he said was true enough, but it was only
what had been said to him over and over again for years past, and he did not
urge a single argument for acquiescing now which was not equally
applicable to his situation two years ago. However, everybody was so glad
to have the measure carried that they did not care to attack Peel or his
speech, though if there had been a Brunswicker of any talent in the House
he might have cut it up finely; two or three of them spoke, but wretchedly
ill, and Lord Chandos was not at all violent, which I expected he would
have been. Lord Eldon was violent but impotent, in the House of Lords, and
Lord Bathurst made a sort of explanation which was very poor.
On leaving the House of Commons I fell in with Burdett, Lord Sefton,
and G. Bentinck, and they all owned that the business is very handsomely
done; and Morpeth and many others whom I saw afterwards at the Club are
quite satisfied. They would have preferred that the Catholic Relief Bill and
the suppression of the Association should have gone together, but do not
make any difficulties on this head, and acknowledge (which is the truth)
that the Duke was probably obliged to do something to cajole the Tories,
and give some colour to their conduct. I sat next to Fitzgerald in the House,
who is not yet re-elected, and he told me that this was absolutely necessary.
He was of course delighted and said, ‘How right Lord Francis was to trust
to the Duke,’ which, however, is all nonsense. He had no reason to trust to
him at all, and I really believe would not have continued in office as Irish
Secretary unless he had adopted this measure. He owned as Peel was
speaking that he was not doing it well; he was feeble and diffuse in the
beginning, and too full of civilities and appeals to Bankes and his old
associates. However, thank God, the event is accomplished, no matter how;

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probably it could not have been done without the concurrence of these
Tories, who have, I think, certainly lost their character by their conduct; and
there is this evil in the history of the measure, that a blow will have been
given to the reputation of public men in general which will, I strongly
suspect, have an important though not immediate effect upon the
aristocratic influence in this country, and tend remotely to increase the
democratic spirit which exists. In all these proceedings there has been so
little of reason, principle, or consistency; so much of prejudice,
subserviency, passion, and interest, that it is impossible not to feel a disgust
to parties in general. The conduct of those idiots the Brunswickers is
respectable in comparison with such men as the High Churchmen; and the
Whigs and Catholic supporters, however they may have suffered before, in
this matter stand clear and have only grounds for exultation. They accept
the measure with great moderation, and are not disposed to mar the success
of it by the introduction of any topics likely to create ill blood, nor to damp
the ardour of new converts by throwing their former follies in their faces.
Now, then, the Duke is all-powerful, and of course he will get all the
honour of the day. Not that he does not deserve a great deal for having
made up his mind to the thing; he has managed it with firmness, prudence,
and dexterity; but to O’Connell and the Association, and those who have
fought the battle on both sides of the water, the success of the measure is
due. Indeed, Peel said as much, for it was the Clare election which
convinced both him and the Duke that it must be done, and from that time
the only question was whether he should be a party to it or not. If the Irish
Catholics had not brought matters to this pass by agitation and association,
things might have remained as they were for ever, and all these Tories
would have voted on till the day of their death against them.
Mahony, who is here, has written over to O’Connell, as have all the
other Catholics, to implore him to use his whole influence to procure the
dissolution of the Association, and it is said that O’Connell had an idea of
resigning his seat for Clare to Vesey, on the ground that, having turned him
out because he had joined a Government hostile DINNER AT CHARLES GRANT’S to
their claims, he owed him this reparation on finding it not to be the case.
But I doubt whether this scheme is practicable; still, I think if O’Connell
could do it it would be a good thing, and serve to reconcile the people here
to him, and give a great lift to his character. I expect to hear that the

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Association has dissolved itself on receiving intelligence of the proceedings
in the House of Commons. Lord Anglesey spoke very well, but nobody will
care for his case now; besides, I doubt his making out a good one. The fact
is that they laid a trap for him, and that he fell into it; that the Duke’s letters
became more insulting, and that a prudent man would have avoided the
snare into which his high spirit and passion precipitated him.

February 8th, 1829
Peel spoke on Friday night better than he did on Thursday. Huskisson
made a spiteful speech, and George Dawson one which I heard Huskisson
say he thought one of the neatest speeches he had ever heard. I dined
yesterday with all the Huskissonians at Grant’s. There were there Lords
Granville, Palmerston, and Melbourne, Huskisson, Warrender, and one or
two more. Huskisson is in good humour and spirits, but rather bitter; he said
that if Peel had asked the advice of a friend what he should do, the advice
would have been for his own honour to resign. I said I did not think Peel
would have got credit by resigning. He said, ‘But don’t you think he has
quite lost it by staying in?’ He owned, however, that the Duke could not
have carried it without Peel, that his influence with the Church party is so
great that his continuance was indispensable to the Duke.
This affair of the Portuguese at Terceira[1] (which certainly, unless it
can be explained, seems a gross outrage) they all fell upon very severely,
and Lord Harrowby told me afterwards he could not understand it, and
thought for the honour of the country it should be explained forthwith.
[1] [In December 1828 an expedition, consisting of 652 Portuguese refugees of the party of the
Queen, sailed from England for Terceira in four vessels, under the command of Count Saldanha.
Terceira held for the Queen, and arms and ammunition had previously been sent them from England.
The British Government ordered Captain Walpole, of the ‘Ranger’ to stop this expedition off
Terceira, which he did by firing a gun into Saldanha’s ship. The ground taken by the Duke of
Wellington in defence of this measure was his resolution to maintain the neutrality of England
between the two parties then contending for the Crown of Portugal. But the proceeding was
vehemently attacked in Parliament and elsewhere.]

We are now beginning to discover different people’s feelings about this
Catholic business, and it is clear that many of the great Tories are deeply
offended that the Duke was not more communicative to them, principally, it

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seems, because they have continued to talk in an opposite sense and in their
old strain up to the last moment, thereby committing themselves, and thus
becoming ridiculous by the sudden turn they are obliged to make. This they
cannot forgive, and many of them are extremely out of humour, although
not disposed to oppose the Duke. The Duke of Rutland means to go to
Belvoir, and not vote at all. The Duke of Beaufort does not like it, but will
support the measure. Lowther has been to the King, and it is supposed he
has resigned. They complain that the Duke has thrown them over, still
nobody doubts that he will have great majorities in both Houses. It was
asserted most positively at Brookes’ yesterday that Peel’s offer of resigning
his seat at Oxford had been accepted. In Dublin the moderate people are
furious with O’Connell for his abuse of everybody. There is no getting over
the fact that he it is who has brought matters to this conclusion, and that but
for him the Catholic question would never have been carried; but his
violence, bad taste, and scurrility have made him ‘lose the lustre of his
former praise.’

February 9th, 1829
I called at Devonshire House in the morning, and there found Princess
Lieven very eloquent and very angry about the Terceira business, which
certainly requires explanation. She is very hostile to the Duke, which is
natural, as he is anti-Russian, and they have never got over their old quarrel.
Saldanha got up a coup de théâtre on board his ship. When Walpole fired on
him a man was killed, and when the English officer came on board he had
the corpse stretched out and covered by a cloak, which was DISCONTENT OF THE
TORIES. suddenly withdrawn, and Saldanha said, ‘Voilà un fidèle sujet de la
Reine, qui a toujours été loyal, assassiné,’ &c.
Went from thence to Mrs. Arbuthnot, who declaimed against
O’Connell and wants to have a provision in the Bill to prevent his sitting for
Clare, which I trust is only her folly, and that there is no chance of such a
thing. The Duke came in while I was there. He said he had no doubt he
should do very well in the House of Lords, but up to that time he could only
(that he knew of for certain) reduce the majority of last year to twenty. He
did not count bishops, of whom he said he knew nothing, but the three Irish

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bishops would vote with him. There were many others he did not doubt
would, but he could only count upon that number. He held some proxies,
which he said he would not make use of, such as Lord Strangford’s, as he
could not hear from him in time, and would not use anybody’s proxy for
this question who had voted against it before. I told him how peevish the
Duke of Rutland, and Beaufort, and others of the High Tories were, but he
only laughed. In the evening Fitzgerald told me that the Convocation at
Oxford had accepted Peel’s resignation of his seat for the University, but
left the time to him. It seems to me that this affair was mismanaged. In the
first instance Peel wrote to the Dean of Christ Church, but he and Lloyd[2]
agreed that he ought to write to the Vice-Chancellor, which he did. The
Vice-Chancellor did not read his letter till after they had voted the address
to Parliament by three to one, after which it was difficult for them to
express anything but disapprobation of Peel’s conduct; whereas if the Vice-
Chancellor had read it first, probably the petition would not have been
carried, or at any rate not by so large a majority. He had better have carried
his Bill through and then resigned, when I have no doubt he would have
been re-elected; very likely he may be as it is.
[2] [The Bishop of Oxford, one of Sir Robert Peel’s most intimate friends.]

Tom Duncombe is going to make another appearance on the boards of
St. Stephen’s, on the Terceira business, and he is to give notice to-night. He
has been with Palmella and Frederick Lamb, who are both to assist in
getting up his case, and he expects to be supported by some of the Whigs
and by the Huskissonians, which latter are evidently anxious to do anything
they can to embarrass the Government. I know nothing of the case, which,
primâ facie, appears much against Government; but the moment is so ill-
chosen, in the midst of this great pending affair, that I think they will make
nothing of it. Palmella is a great fool for his pains, for in clamouring against
the Duke he is only kicking against the pricks. As to Duncombe, he is egged
on by Lambton and instructed by Henry de Ros, who cares nothing about
the matter, and only does it for the fun of the thing. I have no idea but that
Duncombe must cut a sorry figure when he steps out of the line of personal
abuse and impertinence.

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February 11th, 1829
Nothing is thought of or talked of but the Catholic question; what
Peers and bishops will vote for it? who voted before against it? There is
hardly any other feeling than that of satisfaction, except on the part of the
ultra-Tories, who do not attempt to conceal their rage and vexation; the
moderate Tories, who are mortified at not having been told of what was
going on; and Huskisson’s party, who would have been glad to have a share
in the business, and who now see themselves in all probability excluded for
ever. O’Connell arrived yesterday; it is supposed he will not take his seat,
but he does not seem inclined to co-operate with Government in keeping
things quiet. However, his real disposition is not yet known, and probably
he has not made up his mind what to do, but waits for events.
Notwithstanding the declaration of the bishops, I do not believe they will
vote against Government. Peel spoke very well last night, and severely
trimmed old Bankes, which gives me great pleasure, so much do I hate that
old worn-out set. How this change of measures changes one’s whole way of
thinking; though I have nothing to do with politics, I cannot help being
influenced to an extraordinary degree by CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. what has
passed, and can understand from my own feelings how those who are
deeply engaged may be biassed by the prejudices and attachments of party
without any imputation against their sincerity or judgment. When we see
men pursuing a course of which we greatly disapprove, all their actions and
motives are suspected by us, and vice versâ. We lend a willing ear to
imputations of vanity, interest, and other unworthy motives, and when we
cannot explain or comprehend the particulars of men’s conduct, we judge
them unfavourably while we are opposed to their measures; but when they
do what we wish, we see the same things very differently, and begin to
hesitate about the justice of our censures and the suspicions which we
previously entertained. It is pretty clear that the Duke will have a good
majority in the House of Lords, and that many Peers and bishops will find
excuses between this and then for voting with him or remaining neutral.
A ridiculous thing happened the other day in the Vice-Chancellor’s
Court. Sugden had taken a brief on each side of a case without knowing it.
Home, who opened on one side and was followed by another lawyer, was to
be answered by Sugden; but he, having got hold of the wrong brief, spoke
the same way as Home. The Vice-Chancellor said coolly, ‘Mr. Sugden is

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with you?’ ‘Sir,’ said Home, ‘his argument is with us, but he is engaged on
the other side.’ Finding himself in a scrape, he said ‘it was true he held a
brief for the other party, but for no client would he ever argue against what
he knew to be a clear rule of law.’ However, the Court decided against them
all.

February 13th, 1829
Still the Catholic question and the probable numbers in the House of
Lords; nobody talks of anything else. Lord Winchelsea makes an ass of
himself, and would like to be sent to the Tower, but nobody will mind
anything such a blockhead says. Lord Holland talks of a majority of sixty in
the Lords. I walked with Ebrington to O’Connell’s door the other day; he
went in. The next day I asked him what had passed. He said that he had
pressed him strongly to dissolve the Association; O’Connell said he could
not press it himself, but would write to Ireland that it was the unanimous
opinion of all the friends of the cause here that it should be done. The fact
is, he does not dare to acquiesce in all the measures of Government, though
there is little doubt but that he desires to see an end to associations and
agitations. Lady Jersey affects to be entirely in the Duke’s confidence. She
said to Lord Granville at Madame de Lieven’s the other night that ‘she
made it a rule never to talk to the Duke about affairs in public,’ and she said
to me last night that she had known what was to be done about the
Catholics all along. Certainly she contrives to make the Duke see a great
deal of her, for he calls on her, and writes to her perpetually, but I doubt
whether he tells her much of anything. Some of the household have made a
struggle to be exempted from the general obligation on all members of
Government to vote for the Bill, but the Duke will not stand it, and they
must all vote or go out. The Privy Seal was offered to Lord Westmoreland,
but he refused, and his answer was good—that if he had been in the
Cabinet, he might possibly have seen the same grounds for changing his
mind on the Catholic question that the other Ministers did; but not having
had those opportunities, he retained his former opinions, and therefore
could not accept office.

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February 22nd, 1829
Went to Newmarket last Sunday and came back on Thursday. Still the
Catholic question and nothing else. Everybody believed that the Duke of
Cumberland would support Government till he made this last speech. He
went to the King, who desired him to call on the Duke, and when he got to
town he went uninvited to dine with him. There has been nothing of
consequence in either House, except the dressing which Lord Plunket gave
Lord Eldon, though that hard-bitten old dog shows capital fight. Peel has
got a most active and intelligent committee at Oxford, and they consider his
election safe. Inglis’s committee, on the contrary, is composed of men not
much better than old women, except Fynes Clinton, the chairman. Every
day the majority promises to be greater in the House of Lords, but it is very
ridiculous to see the faces many of these Tory CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. Lords
make at swallowing the bitter pill. Too great a noise is made about Peel and
his sacrifices, but he must be supported and praised at this juncture. It is not
for those who have been labouring in this cause, and want his assistance, to
reject him or treat him uncivilly now that he tenders it. But as to the body of
the High Tories, it is impossible not to regard their conduct with disgust and
contempt, for now they feel only for themselves, and it is not apprehension
of those dangers they have been constantly crying out about that affects
them, but the necessity they are under of making such a sudden turn, and
bitter mortification at having been kept in total ignorance, and,
consequently, having been led to hold the same violent language up to the
last moment. If Canning had lived, God knows what would have happened,
for they never would have turned round for him as they are now about to do
for the Duke. The circumstances of the case are just the same; since 1825
the same game has been going on in Ireland, and in the same manner, and
the Clare election was only what had happened at Waterford before. All this
has given a blow to the aristocracy, which men only laugh at now, but of
which the effects will be felt some day or other. Who will have any
dependence hereafter on the steadiness and consistency of public men, and
what credit will be given to professions and declarations? I am glad to see
them dragged through the mire, as far as the individuals are concerned, but I
am sorry for the effect that such conduct is likely to produce. There was a
capital paper of Cobbett’s yesterday, in his best style. Many Liberals are
uneasy about what are called the securities, and when the Duke tells Lord

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Colchester that if he will wait he will be satisfied with the Bill, it is enough
to make them so; but my hopes predominate over my fears. Yesterday Vesey
Fitzgerald said that ‘we had not yet seen what some people might consider
the objectionable parts of the measure, but that, though certain things might
be necessary, the Government are impressed with the paramount necessity
of not leaving the Catholic question behind them, and that the Duke was a
man of too firm a mind not to go through with it;’ and I think he said
distinctly that Catholics and Protestants must be placed on an equal footing,
or something to that effect. He went off into a panegyric on the Duke, and
said that seeing him as he did for several hours every day, he had
opportunities of finding out what an extraordinary man he was, and that it
was remarkable what complete ascendency he had acquired over all who
were about him. The English of this is (what everybody knew) that he
dictates to his Cabinet. The fact is, he is a man of great energy, decision,
and authority, and his character has been formed by the events of his life,
and by the extraordinary circumstances which have raised him to a situation
higher than any subject has attained in modern times. That his great
influence is indispensable to carry this question, and therefore most useful
at this time, cannot be doubted, for he can address the King in a style which
no other Minister could adopt. He treats with him as with an equal, and the
King stands completely in awe of him. It will be long before a correct and
impartial estimate is formed of the Duke’s character and abilities; his
talents, however, must be of a very superior, though not of the most shining
description. Whatever he may be, he is at this moment one of the most
powerful Ministers this country has ever seen. The greatest Ministers have
been obliged to bend to the King, or the aristocracy, or the Commons, but
he commands them all. M—— told me that he had not seen the King, but
that he heard he was as sulky as a bear, and that he was sure he would be
very glad if anything happened to defeat this measure, though he is too
much afraid of the Duke to do anything himself tending to thwart it.
The Emperor of Russia is extremely disgusted at the language of the
newspapers here, and desired his Minister to complain of it, and the Duke
wrote the answer himself, in which he entered at great length into the
character and utility of the press in this country, a dissertation affording a
proof certainly of his quickness and industry, overwhelmed as he is with

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business. The Duke of Richmond offered to give up his Garter, but the
Duke would not take it back.

February 26th, 1829
DEBATE OF THE ROYAL DUKES.The debate on Monday night in the House of
Lords was very amusing. It was understood the Duke of Clarence was to
speak, and there was a good deal of curiosity to hear him. Lord Bathurst
was in a great fright lest he should be violent and foolish. He made a very
tolerable speech, of course with a good deal of stuff in it, but such as it was
it has exceedingly disconcerted the other party. The three royal Dukes
Clarence, Cumberland, and Sussex got up one after another, and attacked
each other (that is, Clarence and Sussex attacked Cumberland, and he them)
very vehemently, and they used towards each other language that nobody
else could have ventured to employ; so it was a very droll scene. The Duke
of Clarence said the attacks on the Duke [of Wellington] had been
infamous; the Duke of Cumberland took this to himself, but when he began
to answer it could not recollect the expression, which the Duke of Clarence
directly supplied. ‘I said “infamous.”’ The Duke of Sussex said that the
Duke of Clarence had not intended to apply the word to the Duke of
Cumberland, but if he chose to take it to himself he might. Then the Duke
of Clarence said that the Duke of Cumberland had lived so long abroad that
he had forgotten there was such a thing as freedom of debate.

February 27th, 1829
They say Plunket made one of the best speeches he ever delivered last
night, and Lord Anglesey spoke very well. There was hardly anybody in the
House. Peel’s election [Oxford University] is going on ill. The Convocation
presents a most disgraceful scene of riot and uproar. I went to the
Committee Room last night at twelve, and found nobody there but Dr.
Russell, the head-master of the Charterhouse, who was waiting for
Hobhouse and amusing himself by correcting his boys’ exercises. He knew
me, though he had not seen me for nearly twenty years, when I was at

Page 193

school. I shall be sorry if Peel does not come in, not that I care much for
him, but because I cannot bear that his opponents should have a triumph.
Lady Georgiana Bathurst told me she had had a great scene with the
Duke of Cumberland. She told him not to be factious and to go back to
Germany; he was very angry, and after much argument and many
reproaches they made it up, embraced, and he shed a flood of tears.
I met with these lines in ‘The Duke of Milan’ (Massinger), which are
very applicable to the Duke in his dealings with his Cabinet and his old
friends the Tories:—
You never heard the motives that induced him
To this strange course? No; these are cabinet councils,
And not to be communicated but
To such as are his own and sure. Alas!
We fill up empty places, and in public
Are taught to give our suffrages to that
Which was before determined.

March 1st, 1829
As the time draws near for the development of the plans of
Government a good deal of uneasiness and doubt prevails, though the
general disposition is to rely on the Duke of Wellington’s firmness and
decision and to hope for the best. Peel’s defeat at Oxford,[3] though not
likely to have any effect on the general measure, is unlucky, because it
serves to animate the anti-Catholics; and had he succeeded, his success
would have gone far to silence, as it must have greatly discouraged, them.
Then the King gives the Ministers uneasiness, for the Duke of Cumberland
has been tampering with him, and through the agency of Lord Farnborough
great attempts have been made to induce him to throw obstacles in the way
of the measures. He is very well inclined, and there is nothing false or base
he would not do if he dared, but he is such a coward, and stands in such awe
of the Duke, that I don’t think anything serious is to be apprehended from
him. There never was anything so mismanaged as the whole affair of
Oxford. First the letter Peel wrote was very injudicious; it was a tender of

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resignation, which being received just after the vote of Convocation, SIR E.
CODRINGTON AND THE DUKE. they were obliged to accept it. Then he should never
have stood unless he had been sure of success, and it appears now that his
canvass never promised well from the beginning. He should have taken the
Chiltern Hundreds, and immediately informed them that he had done so.
Probably no opposition would have been made, but after having accepted
his resignation they could not avoid putting up another man. It appears that
an immense number of parsons came to vote of whose intentions both
parties were ignorant, and they almost all voted for Inglis.
[3] [Upon the 4th of February Mr. Peel resigned his seat for the University of Oxford, in
consequence of the change of his opinions on the Catholic question. A contest ensued, Sir Robert
Harry Inglis being the candidate opposed to Peel. Inglis was returned by a majority of 146. Mr. Peel
sat for the borough of Westbury during the ensuing debates.]

Codrington was at Brookes’ yesterday, telling everybody who would
listen to him what had passed at an interview, that I have mentioned before,
with the Duke of Wellington, and how ill the Duke had treated him. He said
the Duke assured him that neither he nor any of his colleagues, nor the
Government collectively, had any sort of hostility to him, but, on the
contrary, regarded him as a very meritorious officer, &c. He then said, ‘May
I, then, ask why I was recalled?’ The Duke said, ‘Because you did not
understand your instructions in the sense in which they were intended by
us.’ He replied that he had understood them in their plain obvious sense,
and that everybody else who had seen them understood them in the same
way—Adam, Ponsonby, Guilleminot, &c.—and then he asked the Duke to
point out the passages in which they differed, to which he said, ‘You must
excuse me.’ All this he was telling, and it may be very true, and that he is
very ill-used; but if he means to bring his case before Parliament, he is
unwise to chatter about it at Brookes’, particularly to Lord Lynedoch, to
whom he was addressing himself, who is not likely to take part with him
against the Duke.

March 2nd, 1829
Saw M—— yesterday; he has been at Windsor for several days, and
confirmed all that I had heard before about the King. The Duke of
Cumberland has worked him into a state of frenzy, and he talks of nothing

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but the Catholic question in the most violent strain. M—— told me that his
Majesty desired him to tell his household that he wished them to vote
against the Bill, which M—— of course refused to do. I asked him if he had
told the Duke of Wellington this; he said he had not, but that the day the
Ministers came to Windsor for the Council (Thursday last, I think) he did
speak to Peel, and told him the King’s violence was quite alarming. Peel
said he was afraid the King was greatly excited, or something to this effect,
but seemed embarrassed and not very willing to talk about it. The result,
however, was that the Duke went to him on Friday, and was with him six
hours, and spoke to his Majesty so seriously and so firmly that he will now
be quiet. Why the Duke does not insist upon his not seeing the Duke of
Cumberland I cannot imagine. There never was such a man, or behaviour so
atrocious as his—a mixture of narrow-mindedness, selfishness, truckling,
blustering, and duplicity, with no object but self, his own ease, and the
gratification of his own fancies and prejudices, without regard to the advice
and opinion of the wisest and best informed men or to the interests and
tranquillity of the country.

March 3rd, 1829
Called on H. de Ros yesterday morning, who told me that the Duke of
Cumberland and his party are still active and very sanguine. Madame de
Lieven is in all his confidence, who, out of hatred to the Duke, would do
anything to contribute to his overthrow. The Duke of Cumberland tells her
everything, and makes her a medium of communication with the Huskisson
party, who, being animated by similar sentiments towards the Duke, the
Tories think would gladly join them in making a party when the way is clear
for them. The Chancellor went to Windsor on Sunday, and on to
Strathfieldsaye at night, where he arrived at three in the morning. Yesterday
the Duke came to town, but called at Windsor on his way. Dawson,
however, told me that he believed the Duke in his interview on Friday had
settled everything with the King, and had received most positive assurances
from him that no further difficulties should be made; but it is quite
impossible to trust him.

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March 4th, 1829
Nothing could exceed the consternation which prevailed yesterday
about this Catholic business. The advocates of the Bill and friends of
Government CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. were in indescribable alarm, and not without
good cause. All yesterday it was thought quite uncertain whether the Duke’s
resignation would not take place, and the Chancellor himself said that
nothing was more likely than that they should all go out. On Sunday the
King sent for the Chancellor; he went, and had an audience in which the
King pretended that he had not been made aware of all the provisions of the
Bill, that the securities did not satisfy him, and that he could not consent to
it. The Chancellor could do nothing with him; so instead of returning to
town he went on to Strathfieldsaye, where the Duke was gone to receive the
Judges. There he arrived at three in the morning, had a conference of two
hours with the Duke, and returned to town quite exhausted, to be in the
House of Lords at ten in the morning. The Duke called at Windsor on his
way to town on Monday, and had a conversation with the King, in which he
told him it was now impossible for him to recede, and that if his Majesty
made any more difficulties he must instantly resign. The King said he
thought he would not desert him under any circumstances, and tried in vain
to move him, which not being able to do, he said that he must take a day to
consider his final determination, and would communicate it. This he did
yesterday afternoon, and he consented to let the Bill go on. There was a
Cabinet in the morning, and another in the evening, the latter about the
details of the Bill, for Francis Leveson and Doherty were both present.
I met Lord Grey at dinner, and in the evening at Brookes’ had a great
deal of conversation with Scarlett, Duncannon, and Spring Rice. They are
all much alarmed, and think the case full of difficulties, not only from the
violence and wavering of the King, but from the great objections which so
many people have to the alteration of the elective franchise. Duncannon
says nothing shall induce him to support it, and he would rather defeat the
whole measure than consent to it; Spring Rice, on the contrary, is ready to
swallow anything to get Emancipation. The object of the anti-Catholics is to
take advantage of this disunion and of the various circumstances which
throw difficulties in the way of Government, and they think, by availing
themselves of them dexterously, they will be able to defeat the measure.
They all seem to think that the Oxford election has been attended with most

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prejudicial effects to the cause. It has served for an argument to the
Cumberland faction with the King, and has influenced his Majesty very
much.
Huskisson made a speech last night which must put an end to any
hopes of assistance to the Opposition from him and his party, which it is
probable they looked to before, and I dare say the Duke of Cumberland has
held out such hopes to the King. The correspondence between the Duke of
Wellington and the Duke of Cumberland was pretty violent, I believe, but
the Duke of Cumberland misrepresents what passed both in it and at their
interview. He declared to the Duke that he would not interfere in any
manner, but refused to leave the country; to Madame de Lieven he said that
the Duke had tried everything—entreaties, threats, and bribes—but that he
had told him he would not go away, and would do all he could to defeat his
measures, and that if he were to offer him 100,000 ℓ . to go to Calais he
would not take it. The degree of agitation, alternate hopes and fears, and
excitement of every kind cannot be conceived unless seen and mixed in as I
see and mix in it. Spring Rice said last night he thought those next four days
to come would be the most important in the history of the country of any for
ages past, and so they are. I was told last night that Knighton has been co-
operating with the Duke of Cumberland, and done a great deal of mischief,
and that he has reason to think that K. is intriguing deeply, with the design
of expelling the Conyngham family from Windsor. This I do not believe,
and it seems quite inconsistent with what I am also told—that the King’s
dislike of Knighton, and his desire of getting rid of him, is just the same,
and that no day passes that he does not offer Mount Charles Knighton’s
place, and, what is more, that Knighton presses him to take it.

March 5th, 1829
Great alarm again yesterday because the CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. Duke, the
Chancellor, and Peel went down to Windsor again. Dined at Prince
Lieven’s. In the evening we learned that everything was settled—that as
soon as the King found the Duke would really leave him unless he gave
way, he yielded directly, and that if the Duke had told him so at first he
would not have made all this bother. The Duke of Cumberland was there (at

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Lieven’s), but did not stay long. I sat next to Matuscewitz (the Russian who
is come over on a special mission to assist Lieven), and asked him if he did
not think we were a most extraordinary people, and seeing all that goes on,
as he must do, without any prejudices about persons or things, if it was not
marvellous to behold the violence which prevailed in the Catholic
discussion. He owned that it was inconceivable, and, notwithstanding all he
had heard and read of our history for some years past, he had no idea that so
much rage and animosity could have been manifested and that the anti-
Popery spirit was still so vigorous. The day, however, is at last arrived, and
to-night the measure will be introduced. But the Duke of Cumberland and
his faction by no means abandon all hopes of being able to throw over the
Bill in its progress, and they will leave no stone unturned to effect their
purpose and to work on the King’s mind while it is going on.

March 6th, 1829
Peel brought on the Catholic question last night in a speech of four
hours, and said to be far the best he ever made. It is full of his never-failing
fault, egotism, but certainly very able, plain, clear, and statesmanlike, and
the peroration very eloquent. The University of Oxford should have been
there in a body to hear the member they have rejected and him whom they
have chosen in his place. The House was crammed to suffocation, and the
lobby likewise. The cheering was loud and frequent, and often burst upon
the impatient listener without. I went to Brookes’ and found them all just
come from the House, full of satisfaction at Peel’s speech and the liberality
of the measure, and in great admiration of Murray’s. The general
disposition seemed to be to support both the Bills, and they argued justly
who said that those who would have supported the whole measure if it had
been in one Bill ought not to take advantage of there being two to oppose
the one they dislike. The part that is the most objectionable is making the
measure so far prospective (‘hereafter to be elected’) as to exclude
O’Connell from Clare, more particularly after the decision of the
Committee in his favour. Six weeks ago Mrs. Arbuthnot told me that it was
intended to exclude him, but I did not believe her. It seemed to me too
improbable, and I never thought more about it. If they persist in this it is
nothing short of madness, and I agree with Spring Rice, who said last night

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that instead of excluding him you should pay him to come into Parliament,
and rather buy a seat for him than let him remain out. If they keep him out it
can only be from wretched motives of personal spite, and to revenge
themselves on him for having compelled them to take the course they have
adopted. The imprudence of this exception is obvious, for when pacification
is your object, and to heal old wounds your great desire, why begin by
opening new ones and by exasperating the man who has the greatest power
of doing mischief and creating disturbance and discontent in Ireland? It is
desirable to reconcile the Irish to the measures of disfranchisement, and to
allow as much time as possible to elapse before the new system comes into
practical operation. By preventing O’Connell from taking his seat his
wrongs are identified with those of the disfranchised freeholders. He will
have every motive for exasperating the public mind and exciting universal
dissatisfaction, and there will be another Clare election, and a theatre for the
display of every angry passion which interest or revenge can possibly put in
action. It is remarkable that attacks, I will not say upon the Church, but
upon Churchmen, are now made in both Houses with much approbation.
The Oxford parsons behaved so abominably at the election that they have
laid themselves open to the severest strictures, and last night Lord
Wharncliffe in one House and Murray in the other commented on the
general conduct of Churchmen at this crisis with a severity which DIVISION ON
THE CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. was by no means displeasing except to the bishops. I
am convinced that very few years will elapse before the Church will really
be in danger. People will grow tired of paying so dearly for so bad an
article.

March 8th, 1829
Yesterday the list came out of those who had voted on the Catholic
question, by which it appeared that several people had voted against the
Government (particularly all the Lowthers) who were expected to vote with
them, and of course this will be a test by which the Duke’s strength and
absoluteness may be tried, so much so that it is very generally thought that
if he permits them to vote with impunity he will lose the question. It was
said in the evening that Lowther and Birkett had resigned, but Lord
Aberdeen, whom I met at dinner, said they had not at five o’clock yesterday

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evening. It is, I think, impossible for the Duke to excuse anybody who votes
against him or stays away. Dined at Agar Ellis’s and met Harrowbys,
Stanleys, Aberdeen, &c. Lord Harrowby thought Peel’s speech extremely
able and judicious. He said that Lord Eldon had asserted that Mr. Pitt’s
opinions had been changed on this question, which was entirely false, for he
had been much more intimate with Mr. Pitt than Lord Eldon ever was, and
had repeatedly discussed the question with him, and had never found the
slightest alteration in his sentiments. He had deprecated bringing it on
because at that moment he was convinced that it would have driven the
King mad and raised a prodigious ferment in England. He talked a great
deal of Fox and Pitt, and said that the natural disposition of the former was
to arbitrary power and that of the latter to be a reformer, so that
circumstances drove each into the course the other was intended for by
nature. Lord North’s letter to Fox when he dismissed him in 1776 was, ‘The
King has ordered a new commission of the Treasury to be made out, in
which I do not see your name.’ How dear this cost him and what an
influence that note may have had on the affairs of the country and on Fox’s
subsequent life! They afterwards talked of the ‘Cateatonenses’ written by
Canning, Frere, and G. Ellis. Lady Morley has a copy, which I am to see.[4]
[4] [The ‘Musæ Cateatonenses,’ a burlesque narrative of a supposed expedition of Mr. George
Legge to Cateaton Street in search of a Swiss chapel. Nothing can be more droll. The only copy I
have seen is still at Saltram. This jeu d’esprit (which fills a volume) was composed by Canning and
his friends one Easter recess they spent at Ashbourne.]

March 9th, 1829
It was reported last night that there had been a compromise with
Lowther, who is to retain his seat and to vote for the Bill in all its other
stages. But he dined at Crockford’s, and told somebody there that he had
tendered his resignation and had received no answer. I do not understand
this indecision; they must deprive those who will not support them
thoroughly. ‘Thorough,’ as Laud and Strafford used to say, must be their
word.
Evening.—I asked Lord Bathurst to-day if Lowther, &c., were out, and
he said nothing had been done about it, that there was plenty of time.
Afterwards met Mrs. Arbuthnot in the Park, and turned back with her. She

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was all against their being turned out, from which I saw that they are to stay
in. We met Gosh, and I walked with them to the House of Commons. We
renewed the subject, and he said that he had been just as much as I could be
for the adoption of strong measures, but that the great object was to carry
the Bill, and if the Duke did not act with the greatest prudence and caution
it would still be lost. He hinted that the difficulties with the King are still
great, and that he is in a state of excitement which alarms them lest he
should go mad. It is pretty clear that the Duke cannot venture to turn them
out. In the meantime the Duke of Cumberland continues at work. Lord
Bathurst told me that he went to Windsor on Saturday, that he had assured
the King that great alarm prevailed in London, that the people were very
violent, and that the Duke had been hissed by the mob in going to the
House of Lords, all of which of course he believes. The Duke is very
unwell. I think matters do not look at all well, and I am alarmed.

March 11th, 1829
The Duke was much better yesterday, went CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. to the
House, and made a very good and stirring speech in answer to Lord
Winchelsea, who disgusted all his own party by announcing himself an
advocate for reform in Parliament. It is now clear that Lowther, &c., are not
to quit their places unless something fresh occurs. The reason supposed is
that the King supports them, and that the Duke does not venture to insist on
their dismissal. The real reason is that he has got an idea that the Whigs
want to make him quarrel with his old friends in order to render him more
dependent upon them, and he is therefore anxious (as he thinks he can) to
carry through the measure without quarrelling with anybody, so that he will
retain the support of the Tories and show the Whigs that he can do without
them, a notion which is unfounded, besides being both unwise and illiberal.
He has already given some persons to understand that they must support
him on this question, and now he is going to grant a dispensation to others,
nor is there any necessity for quarrelling with anybody. Lowther himself
evidently felt that he could not hold his office and oppose the measure, and
consequently resigned. The Duke might accept his resignation with a very
friendly explanation on the subject; eventually he would be certain to join
Government again, for to what other party could he betake himself? These

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great Tory borough-mongering Lords have no taste for opposition.
Arbuthnot told my father that this was his feeling, and when I told Mrs.
Arbuthnot what a bad moral effect the Duke’s lenity had, she said, ‘Oh, you
hear that from the Opposition.’ Last night in his speech, when he said he
had the cordial support of his Majesty, he turned round with energy to the
Duke of Cumberland. Several Peers upon one pretext or another have
withdrawn the support they had intended to give to the Duke’s Bill.
Fourteen Irish bishops are coming over in a body to petition the King
against this Bill, and most foolish they. The English bishops may by
possibility be sincere and disinterested in their opposition (not that I believe
they are), but nobody will ever believe that the Irish think of anything but
their scandalous revenues. The thing must go; the only question is when and
how. The Kent petition to the King is to be presented, I believe, by Lords
Winchelsea and Bexley; they would not entrust it to Peel. Lord W. wanted
to march down to Windsor at the head of 25,000 men.

March 14th, 1829
Arbuthnot told the Duke what was said about not turning out the
refractory members, and he replied, ‘I have undertaken this business, and I
am determined to go through with it. Nobody knows the difficulties I have
in dealing with my royal master, and nobody knows him so well as I do. I
will succeed, but I am as in a field of battle, and I must fight it out my own
way.’ This would be very well if there were not other motives mixed up
with this—jealousy of the Whigs and a desire to keep clear of them, and
quarrel with them again when this is over. Herries told Hyde Villiers that
their policy was conservative, that of the Whigs subversive, and that they
never could act together. All false, for nobody’s policy is subversive who
has much to lose, and the Whigs comprise the great mass of property and a
great body of the aristocracy of the country. Nobody seems to doubt that the
Bill will pass. The day before yesterday the Duke of Newcastle went to
Windsor and had an audience. Lord Bathurst told me that they had reason to
believe his Grace had told the King his own sentiments on the Catholic
question, but that the King had made no answer. But as nobody was present
they could not depend on the truth of this (which they had from his Majesty

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himself, of course), and he begged me to find out what account the Duke
gave of it.

March 15th, 1829
The Duke of Newcastle was with the King an hour and a half or two
hours. After he had presented his petitions he pulled out a paper, which he
read to the King. His Majesty made him no answer, and desired him if he
had any other communications to make to him to send them through the
Duke of Wellington. I dare say this is true, not because he says so, but
because there has been no notice taken of the Duke’s visit in any of the
newspapers. They now talk of thirteen bishops, and probably more, PERSONAL
HABITS OF GEORGE IV. voting with Government. I suppose the majority will be
very large.

March 16th to 17th, 1829
I received a message from the King, to tell me that he was sorry I had
not dined with him the last time I was at Windsor, that he had intended to
ask me, but finding that all the Ministers dined there except Ellenborough,
he had let me go, that Ellenborough might not be the only man not invited,
and ‘he would be damned if Ellenborough ever should dine in his house.’ I
asked Lord Bathurst afterwards, to whom I told this, why he hated
Ellenborough, and he said that something he had said during the Queen’s
trial had given the King mortal offence, and he never forgave it. The King
complains that he is tired to death of all the people about him. He is less
violent about the Catholic question, tired of that too, and does not wish to
hear any more about it. He leads a most extraordinary life—never gets up
till six in the afternoon. They come to him and open the window curtains at
six or seven o’clock in the morning; he breakfasts in bed, does whatever
business he can be brought to transact in bed too, he reads every newspaper
quite through, dozes three or four hours, gets up in time for dinner, and goes
to bed between ten and eleven. He sleeps very ill, and rings his bell forty
times in the night; if he wants to know the hour, though a watch hangs close
to him, he will have his valet de chambre down rather than turn his head to

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look at it. The same thing if he wants a glass of water; he won’t stretch out
his hand to get it. His valets are nearly destroyed, and at last Lady
Conyngham prevailed on him to agree to an arrangement by which they
wait on him on alternate days. The service is still most severe, as on the
days they are in waiting their labours are incessant, and they cannot take off
their clothes at night, and hardly lie down. He is in good health, but
irritable, and has been horribly annoyed by other matters besides the
Catholic affair.

March 18th, 1829
I was at Windsor for the Council and the Recorder’s report. We waited
above two hours; of course his Majesty did not get up till we were all there.
A small attendance in Council—the Duke, Bathurst, Aberdeen, Melville,
and I think no other Cabinet Minister. I sent for Batchelor, the King’s valet
de chambre, and had a pretty long conversation with him; he talked as if the
walls had ears, but was anxious to tell me everything. He confirmed all I
had before heard of the King’s life, and said he was nearly dead of it, that
he was in high favour, and the King had given him apartments in the Lodge
and some presents. His Majesty has been worried to death, and has not yet
made up his mind to the Catholic Bill (this man knows, I’ll be bound). But
what he most dwelt on was Sir William Knighton. I said to him that the
King was afraid of the Duke. He replied he thought not; he thought he was
afraid of nobody but of Knighton, that he hated him, but that his influence
and authority were without any limit, that he could do anything, and
without him nothing could be done; that after him Lady Conyngham was
all-powerful, but in entire subserviency to him; that she did not dare have
anybody to dine there without previously ascertaining that Knighton would
not disapprove of it; that he knew everything, and nobody dared say or do a
thing of any sort without his permission. There was a sort of mysterious
awe with which he spoke of Knighton, mixed with dislike, which was
curious. He is to call on me when he comes to London, and will, I dare say,
tell me more. Returned to town at night, and heard of Sadler’s speech[5] and
read it. It is certainly very clever, but better as reported than as it was
delivered. He sent the report to the ‘Morning Journal’ himself, and added
some things and omitted others, and thereby improved it. He is sixty-seven

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years old, and it is his maiden speech; certainly very remarkable and
indicative of much talent. Lord Harrowby told me he heard it, and was
greatly struck by it.
[5] [Mr. Sadler, who had never sat in Parliament before, was returned by the Duke of Newcastle
at this time for the express purpose of opposing the Catholic Relief Bill, which he did with
considerable ability.]

March 19th, 1829
Last night the debate ended, with a very excellent DEBATE ON THE CATHOLIC
BILL. speech from Robert Grant,[6] and a speech from Lord Palmerston which
astonished everybody. The Attorney-General was violent and brutal, and
Peel’s reply very good; he was bursting with passion, but restrained himself.
I met Tierney, and told him that there was great disappointment that he had
not answered Sadler. He said he could not speak for coughing, that Sadler’s
speech was clever, but over-rated, nothing like so good as they talked of.
Robert Grant’s was very good indeed, the best for matter; Palmerston’s the
most brilliant, ‘an imitation of Canning, and not a bad one.’ Though the
Opposition gained eight in this division, they are disappointed and
disheartened, and will make but little fight on the other stages (as it is
thought). Nine bishops are to vote. The meeting at Lambeth took place the
day before yesterday, but it came to nothing. They separated agreeing to
meet again, and in the meantime that each should take his own line. Tierney
talked of the Duke’s management of this business with great admiration, as
did Lord Durham last night in the same strain; but after all what was it but
the resolution of secresy (which I think was a most wise and judicious one)?
for he did nothing but keep the secret. However, the thing has been well
imagined and well executed. Tierney thinks Peel will resign when it is all
over, and at his father’s death will be made a Peer. I should not wonder; he
must be worn to death with the torrents of abuse and invective with which
his old friends assail him on every occasion. I presume that if he could have
anticipated their conduct he would not have been so civil to them in the
beginning, and would have taken another turn altogether; it would have
been better for him. Lady Worcester told me to-day what adds to many
other proofs that the Duke is a very hard man; he takes no notice of any of
his family; he never sees his mother, has only visited her two or three times

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in the last few years; and has not now been to see Lady Anne, though she
has been in such affliction for the death of her only son, and he passes her
door every time he goes to Strathfieldsaye. He is well with Lady
Maryborough, though they quarrelled after Lord M. was driven from the
Cabinet; Lord Wellesley is seriously affronted with him at the little
consideration the Duke shows for him, and for having shown him no
confidence in all this business, especially as the Catholic question was the
only political difference that existed between them. He is a very
extraordinary man certainly, and with many contradictions in his character;
in him, however, they are so much more apparent than in any other man, for
he is always before the world—all his actions, his motives, and even his
thoughts.
[6] [Robert Grant, Esq., M.P., brother of Mr. Charles Grant. He was afterwards appointed
Governor of Bombay.]

March 21st, 1829, at night
This morning the Duke fought a duel with Lord Winchelsea. Nothing
could equal the astonishment caused by this event. Everybody of course
sees the matter in a different light; all blame Lord W., but they are divided
as to whether the Duke ought to have fought or not. Lord W.’s letter
appeared last Monday, and certainly from that time to this it never entered
into anybody’s head that the Duke ought to or would take it up, though the
expressions in it were very impertinent. But Lord Winchelsea is such a
maniac, and has so lost his head (besides the ludicrous incident of the
handkerchief[7]), that everybody imagined the Duke would treat what he
said with silent contempt. He thought otherwise, however, and without
saying a word to any of his colleagues or to anybody but Hardinge, his
second, he wrote and demanded an apology. After many letters and
messages between the parties (Lord Falmouth being Lord Winchelsea’s
second) Lord Winchelsea declined making any apology, and they met. The
letters on the Duke’s part are very creditable, so free from arrogance or an
assuming tone; those on Lord Winchelsea’s not so, for one of them is a
senseless repetition of the offence, in which he says that if the Duke will
deny that his allegations are true he will apologise. They met at Wimbledon
at eight o’clock. There were many people about, who saw what passed.

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They stood at a distance of fifteen paces. Before they began DUEL OF THE DUKE
AND LORD WINCHELSEA. Hardinge went up to Lords Winchelsea and Falmouth,
and said he must protest against the proceeding, and declare that their
conduct in refusing an apology when Lord Winchelsea was so much in the
wrong filled him with disgust. The Duke fired and missed, and then
Winchelsea fired in the air. He immediately pulled out of his pocket the
paper which has since appeared, but in which the word ‘apology’ was
omitted. The Duke read it and said it would not do. Lord Falmouth said he
was not come there to quibble about words, and that he was ready to make
the apology in whatever terms would be satisfactory, and the word
‘apology’ was inserted on the ground. The Duke then touched his hat, said
‘Good morning, my Lords,’ mounted his horse, and rode off. Hume was
there, without knowing on whose behalf till he got to the ground. Hardinge
asked him to attend, and told him where he would find a chaise, into which
he got. He found there pistols, which told him the errand he was on, but he
had still no notion the Duke was concerned; when he saw him he was ready
to drop. The Duke went to Mrs. Arbuthnot’s as soon as he got back, and at
eleven o’clock she wrote a note to Lord Bathurst, telling him of it, which he
received at the Council board and put into my hands. So little idea had he of
Lord Winchelsea’s letter leading to anything serious that when on
Wednesday, at the Council at Windsor, I asked him if he had read it, he said,
laughing, ‘Yes, and it is a very clever letter, much the wisest thing he ever
did; he has got back his money. I wish I could find some such pretext to get
back mine.’ At twelve o’clock the Duke went to Windsor to tell the King
what had happened. Winchelsea is abused for not having made an apology
when it was first required; but I think, having committed the folly of writing
so outrageous a letter, he did the only thing a man of honour could do in
going out and receiving a shot and then making an apology, which he was
all this time prepared to do, for he had it ready written in his pocket. I think
the Duke ought not to have challenged him; it was very juvenile, and he
stands in far too high a position, and his life is so much publica cura that he
should have treated him and his letter with the contempt they merited; it
was a great error in judgment, but certainly a venial one, for it is impossible
not to admire the high spirit which disdained to shelter itself behind the
immunities of his great character and station, and the simplicity, and almost
humility, which made him at once descend to the level of Lord Winchelsea,
when he might, without subjecting himself to any imputation derogatory to

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his honour, have assumed a tone of lofty superiority and treated him as
unworthy of his notice. Still it was beneath his dignity; it lowered him, and
was more or less ridiculous. Lord Jersey met him coming from Windsor,
and spoke to him. He said, ‘I could not do otherwise, could I?’
[7] [The incident of the handkerchief is related below, p. 198 (March 29th, 1829).]

I met the Bishop of Oxford in the Park this morning; he said nine
bishops, and probably ten, would vote for the Bill. He said he was not at the
meeting at Lambeth, but the Archbishop sent for him, and despatched him
to the Duke with an account of their proceedings. The Archbishop
summoned the bishops to consult upon the course they should pursue, and
see if there was any chance of their acting with unanimity. Finding this was
not possible, they resolved that each should take his own line; and a
proposal to address the King, which was urged by one or two of the most
violent (he did not name them), was overruled. The anti-Catholic papers
and men lavish the most extravagant encomiums on Wetherell’s speech, and
call it ‘the finest oration ever delivered in the House of Commons,’ ‘the best
since the second Philippic.’ He was drunk, they say. The Speaker said ‘the
only lucid interval he had was that between his waistcoat and his breeches.’
When he speaks he unbuttons his braces, and in his vehement action his
breeches fall down and his waistcoat runs up, so that there is a great
interregnum. He is half mad, eccentric, ingenious, with great and varied
information and a coarse, vulgar mind, delighting in ribaldry and abuse,
besides being an enthusiast. The first time he distinguished himself was in
Watson’s trial, when he and Copley were his counsel, and both made very
able speeches. He was then a trading lawyer and politician, till the Queen
came over, when he made a very powerful speech in the House of THE KING ON
THE DUEL. Commons, full of research, in favour of inserting her name in the
Liturgy. He was then engaged by Chancellor Eldon for the Court, soon after
made Solicitor-General, much abused for ratting, became Attorney-General,
and resigned when Canning became Minister. He was restored when the
Duke was made Prime Minister, and now he will have to retire again.

March 26th, 1829

Page 209

Everything is getting on very quietly in the House of Commons, and
the Opposition are beginning to squabble among themselves, some wishing
to create delay, and others not choosing to join in these tricks, when they
know it is useless. The Duke came here the night before last, but I was not
at home. He talked over the whole matter with his usual simplicity. The
King, it seems, was highly pleased with the Winchelsea affair, and he said,
‘I did not see the letter (which is probably a lie); if I had, I certainly should
have thought it my duty to call your attention to it.’ Somebody added that
‘he would be wanting to fight a duel himself.’ Sefton said, ‘he will be sure
to think he has fought one.’ Hume gave the two Lords a lecture on the
ground after the duel, and said he did not think there was a man in England
who would have lifted his hand against the Duke. Very uncalled for, but the
Duke’s friends have less humility than he has, for Lord Winchelsea did not
lift his hand against him. It is curious that the man who threw the bottle at
Lord Wellesley in Dublin (and who is a Protestant fanatic) has been lurking
constantly about the House of Lords, so much so that it was thought right to
apprise Peel of it, and the police have been desired in consequence to keep a
strict watch over him, and to take care that he does no mischief. The Duke
after the duel sent Lord Melville to the Duke of Montrose with a message
that his son-in-law had behaved very much like a gentleman. The women,
particularly of course Lady Jersey, have been very ridiculous, affecting
nervousness and fine feeling, though they never heard of the business till
some hours after it was over. Mrs. Arbuthnot was not so foolish but made
very light of it all, which was in better sense and better taste.
M—— told me two days ago that, although he is more quiet, the King
is not at all reconciled to the Catholic question. His Majesty was very much
annoyed at his speech the other day, having always hoped that he was at
heart too indifferent about it to take a decided line or express publicly a
strong opinion. It is supposed that either Sugden or Alderson will be
Solicitor-General. O’Connell has done himself great credit by his
moderation in the Committee. Grattan wanted to move an amendment
omitting the words by which O’Connell is excluded from taking his seat for
Clare, when Rice and Duncannon begged him to withdraw it, and said they
were charged with the expression of O’Connell’s wish that his individual
case should not be thought of, as he would not have it be any impediment to
the success of the measure. This, of course, greatly annoys those who have

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inveighed against him, and who have always contended that he only wished
for confusion, and would be very sorry to see the question settled.
The other day Jack Lawless[8] called on Arbuthnot to ask him some
question about the Deccan prize money, in which a brother of his has an
interest. He entered upon politics, was very obsequious in his manner,
extravagant in praise of the Duke, quite shocked that he should have fought
a duel, and said, ‘Sir, we are twelve of us here, and not one but what would
fight for him any day in the week.’ He said that some years ago, when he
heard the Duke speak, he was distressed at his hesitation, but that now he
spoke better than anyone; that in the Lords he heard Eldon, and Plunket,
and Grey, and then up got the Duke and answered everybody, and spoke
better than they all. Arbuthnot says he was bowing and scraping, and all
humility and politeness, with none of the undergrowl of the Association.
[8] [A prominent member of the Catholic Association in Dublin.]

March 26th, 1829, at night
Just met M——, who had returned that moment from Windsor, where
he had left the King in such an ill humour that he would not stay and dine
there. The Duke of Cumberland never goes there without unsettling his
mind, and yesterday evening Lord Mansfield LORD ELDON’S INTERVIEW WITH THE
KING. had been to the Castle and had an audience. Lord Eldon prevails on all
these Peers to exercise their right and demand audiences. Lord Mansfield
had no petition to present, and only went to remonstrate about the Catholic
question and tell the King that all the Protestants looked to him to save
them from the impending danger. The King declares he only listens to what
they say, and replies that he must leave everything to his Ministers; but it is
impossible for him to listen (and not talk himself) for an hour and a quarter
together. He is very angry at the Bishop of Winchester’s speech, and at the
declaration in favour of the Bill by both of the brothers.[9] He accused M
—— of having influenced the Bishop, which he denied, and told him that
he would not have been biassed by anybody. The King still is in hopes that
the Bill will not pass, and said that the Ministers had only a majority of five,
and with that they would not carry it through. M—— replied that they had
above fifty, and after such a majority as there had been in the Commons it

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must pass. All this he received as sulkily as possible, and it is clear that if he
dared, and if he could, he would still defeat the measure. His dislike to it is
the opposition of a spoiled child, founded on considerations purely personal
and selfish and without any reason whatever.
[9] [The two Sumners. Dr. John Bird Sumner (afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury) had been
raised to the see of Chester in 1828. They owed their advancement to the especial favour of George
IV. The bishop adverted to in the next sentence was the Bishop of Winchester.]

March 29th, 1829, at night
Dined at Lady Sandwich’s, and met Madame de Lieven, who is grown
very gracious, craving for news, and probably very malignant. Lieven told
me (which she did not) that Lord Eldon was with the King yesterday for
four hours. She confirmed it after dinner, and said that Halford had told her,
but added that he had done no harm.[10] Lieven also told me that Stratford
Canning is coming home, and Robert Gordon going to Constantinople. He
is a dull, heavy man, and not able, I should think, to cope with the Turkish
Ministers, if they are (as the Duke says) the ablest diplomatists in Europe. I
don’t know why Stratford Canning is coming home, whether nolens or
volens.
[10] [This was the celebrated interview related in Lord Eldon’s ‘Memoirs’ vol. iii., when,
however, the King gave Lord E. a very erroneous account of the transaction, subsequently corrected
by Sir Robert Peel in his ‘Memoirs.’]

I have, I see, alluded to Lord Winchelsea’s handkerchief story,[11] but
have not mentioned the circumstances, which I may as well do. Lord
Holland came home one night from the House of Lords, and as soon as he
had occasion to blow his nose pulled his handkerchief out of his pocket;
upon which my Lady exclaimed (she hates perfumes), ‘Good God, Lord H.,
where did you get that handkerchief? Send it away directly.’ He said he did
not know, when it was inspected, and the letter W found on it. Lord H. said,
‘I was sitting near Lord Winchelsea, and it must be his, which I took up by
mistake and have brought home.’ Accordingly the next day he sent it to
Lord Winchelsea with his compliments. Lord Winchelsea receiving the
handkerchief and the message, and finding it marked W, fancied it was the
Duke’s, and that it was sent to him by way of affronting him; on which he

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went to the Duke of Newcastle and imparted to him the circumstances, and
desired him to wait on Lord Holland for an explanation. This his Grace did,
when the matter was cleared up and the handkerchief was found to be the
property of Lord Wellesley. The next day Lord Winchelsea came up
laughing to Lord Holland in the House of Lords, and said he had many
apologies to make for what had passed, but that he really was in such a state
of excitement he did not know what he said and did.[12]
[11] [Supra, p. 192 (March 21st, 1829).]
[12] [Lord Winchelsea was in the habit of flourishing a white pocket handkerchief while he was
speaking in the House of Lords. This peculiarity; associated with his sonorous tones, his excited
action, and his extravagant opinions, gave point to the incident.]

April 4th, 1829
On the third reading of the Catholic Bill in the House of Commons
Sadler failed, and Palmerston made a speech like one of Canning’s. The Bill
has been two nights in the House of Lords. They go on with it this morning,
and will divide this evening. The Chancellor made DEBATE ON THE CATHOLIC BILL.
a very fine speech last night, and the Bishop of Oxford spoke very well the
night before, but the debate has been dull on the whole; the subject is
exhausted. The House of Lords was very full, particularly of women; every
fool in London thinks it necessary to be there. It is only since last year that
the steps of the throne have been crowded with ladies; formerly one or two
got in, who skulked behind the throne, or were hid in Tyrwhitt’s box, but
now they fill the whole space, and put themselves in front with their large
bonnets, without either fear or shame.

April 5th, 1829
The question was put at a little before twelve last night, and carried by
105—217 to 112 (a greater majority than the most sanguine expected)—
after a splendid speech from Lord Grey and a very good one from Lord
Plunket. Old Eldon was completely beat, and could make no fight at all; his
speech was wretched, they say, for I did not hear it. This tremendous defeat

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will probably put an end to anything like serious opposition; they will
hardly rally again.
I dined at Chesterfield House, but nobody came to dinner. Chesterfield
and his party were all at the House of Lords. I found myself almost alone
with Vesey Fitzgerald, with whom I had much talk after dinner. He said that
it would be a long time before all the circumstances and all the difficulties
relating to their proceedings were known, but when they were it would be
seen how great had been the latter, how curious the former; that the day the
Chancellor, the Duke, and Peel were with the King they actually were out
(all of which I knew), and that he believes if the other party could have
made a Government with a chance of standing, out they would have gone;
but that it was put to them (this I did not know), and they acknowledged
they could not. They held consultations on the subject, and the man they
principally relied on was the Duke of Richmond; they meant he should be
either First Lord of the Treasury or Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland. Lord
Winchelsea said to Ellenborough, ‘Why, he speaks better than the Duke of
Wellington any day.’ He happens to have his wits, such as they are, about
him, and has been quick and neat in one or two little speeches, though he
spoke too often, and particularly in his attack on the Bishop of Oxford the
other night. Last year, on the Wool question, he did very well, but all the
details were got up for him by George Bentinck,[13] who took the trouble.
Besides, his fortune consists in great measure of wool, he lives in the
country, is well versed in rural affairs and the business of the quarter
sessions, has a certain calibre of understanding, is prejudiced, narrow-
minded, illiterate, and ignorant, good-looking, good-humoured, and
unaffected, tedious, prolix, unassuming, and a duke. There would not have
been so much to say about him if they had not excited an idea in the minds
of some people of making him Prime Minister and successor to the Duke of
Wellington.
[13] [It deserves remark that Lord George Bentinck was thus early employing his singular
talents in mastering details, although he took no conspicuous part in politics until the proposal for the
repeal of the Corn Law in 1845.]

Vesey told me that Dawson’s speech at Derry very nearly overturned
the whole design. The King heard of it the day of a Council at Windsor
(which I well remember). The Chancellor was with him for a long time, but
it was almost impossible to persuade the King that Dawson knew nothing of

Page 214

the intention of the Government, and that his speech was not made in
concert with Peel and the Duke. This it was which caused them such
excessive annoyance, because it raised difficulties which well-nigh
prevented the accomplishment of the design. It must be owned that the King
might well believe this, and although it is very certain that Dawson knew
nothing, and that his making such a speech ought to have been a proof that
he was in ignorance, it will always be believed that he was aware of the
intended measure, and that his speech was made with the Duke’s
concurrence. It is curious enough that his opinion had been long changed,
and that he had intended to pronounce his recantation when Brownlow did,
but as Brownlow got the start of him he would not. For two years after this
he persevered in the old course, and when Canning came in, and the
Catholic question was the great field on which he was to be fought, THE BILL
IN JEOPARDY. Dawson reverted vigorously to his old opinions, and spoke
vehemently against emancipation. Such is party!
The circumstances that Vesey talked of are in fact pretty well known or
guessed at, nor has there ever been any secret as to the main fact of the
King’s opposition and dislike to the measure. He told me that after Eldon’s
visit of four hours the Duke remonstrated, and told the King what great
umbrage it gave his Ministers to see and hear of these long and numerous
interviews with their opponents. The King declared that he said nothing and
that nothing passed calculated to annoy them, which they none of them
believed, but of course could make no reply to.

April 8th, 1829
I have mentioned above (March 4th[14]), p. 180, the Chancellor, the
Duke, and Peel going to the King, and the alarm that prevailed here. That
day the Catholic question was in great jeopardy. They went to tell the King
that unless he would give them his real, efficient support, and not throw his
indirect influence into the opposite scale, they would resign. He refused to
give them that support; they placed their resignations in his hands and came
away. The King then sent to Eldon, and asked him if he would undertake to
form a Government. He deliberated (then it was that it was question of the
Duke of Richmond being First Lord or Lord-Lieutenant), but eventually

Page 215

said he could not undertake it. On his refusal the King yielded, and the Bill
went on; but if Eldon had accepted, the Duke and his colleagues would
have been out, and God knows what would have happened. It was, of
course, of all these matters that the King talked to Eldon in the long
interview they had the other day. He is very sulky at the great majority in
the House of Lords, as I knew he would be.
[14] [It was on the 3rd of March that this interview took place, as related by Sir R. Peel himself
in his ‘Memoir’ (vol. i. p. 343). The King asked his Ministers to explain the details of the measure
they proposed to bring in. They informed his Majesty that it would be necessary to modify in the case
of the Roman Catholics that part of the oath of supremacy which relates to the ecclesiastical
jurisdiction and supremacy of the Pope. To this the King said he could not possibly consent. Upon
this Mr. Peel and his colleagues informed his Majesty that they must resign. His Majesty accepted the
resignations, and the Ministers returned to London (after an audience of five hours) under the full
persuasion that the Government was dissolved. In the interval some attempt was made to form a
Protestant Cabinet; but on the evening of the following day, the 4th of March, the King wrote a letter
to the Duke of Wellington, informing him that his Majesty anticipated so much difficulty in the
attempt to form another Administration that he could not dispense with his Ministers’ services, and
that they were at liberty to proceed with the measures of which notice had been given in Parliament.]

Lady Jersey is in a fury with Lord Anglesey, and goes about saying he
insulted her in the House of Lords the other night. She was sitting on one of
the steps of the throne, and the Duchess of Richmond on the step above.
After Lord Anglesey had spoken he came to talk to the Duchess, who said,
‘How well you did speak;’ on which he said, ‘Hush! you must take care
what you say, for here is Lady Jersey, and she reports for the newspapers;’
on which Lady Jersey said very angrily, ‘Lady Jersey is here for her own
amusement; what do you mean by reporting for newspapers?’ to which he
replied with a profound bow, ‘I beg your Ladyship’s pardon; I did not mean
to offend you, and if I did I beg to make the most ample apology.’ This is
his version; hers, of course, is different. He says that he meant the whole
thing as a joke. It was a very bad joke if it was one, and as he knows how
she abuses him, one may suspect that there was something more than joking
in it.
The other night Lord Grey had called Lord Falmouth to order, and
after the debate Falmouth came up to him with a menacing air and said,
‘My Lord Grey, I wish to inform you that if upon any future occasion you
transgress in the slightest degree the orders of the House, I shall most
certainly call you to order.’ Lord Grey, who expected from his air something
more hostile, merely said, ‘My Lord, your Lordship will do perfectly right,

Page 216

and whenever I am out of order I hope you will.’ Last night old Eldon got a
dressing again from the Chancellor.

April 9th, 1829
Met O’Connell at dinner yesterday at William Ponsonby’s. The only
Irish (agitators) were he and O’Gorman Mahon; ——, he said, was too
great a blackguard, and he would not invite him. O’Connell arrived from
Ireland that day; O’CONNELL AT DINNER. there is nothing remarkable in his
manner, appearance, or conversation, but he seems lively, well bred, and at
his ease. I asked him after dinner ‘whether Catholics had not taken the oath
of supremacy till it was coupled with the declaration;’ he said, ‘in many
instances in the reigns of Elizabeth, James, and Charles, because at that
time it was considered to apply to the civil supremacy of the Pope only, and
that the Government admitted of that interpretation of it, but that no
Catholic could take it now, because that construction is never given to the
oath.’ Duncannon told me that O’Connell has no wish to be in Parliament,
that he makes so much money by his profession that it is a great loss to him
to attend Parliament at all. What they want is a compromise with Vesey
Fitzgerald, by which he may be admitted to take his seat in this Parliament
on an understanding that he will not oppose Vesey in the next; not that I see
how that is to be done, except by an Act of Parliament (which would never
pass) in his favour. Besides, the Duke detests him, and Vesey likewise. They
cannot forgive him for all he has done and all he has made them do.
O’Gorman, the secretary of the Catholic Association, appears a heavy, civil,
vulgar man. I sat next to Stanley, who told me a story which amused me.
Macintosh, in the course of the recent debates, went one day to the House
of Commons at eleven in the morning to take a place. They were all taken
on the benches below the gangway, and on asking the doorkeeper how they
happened to be all taken so early, he said, ‘Oh, sir, there is no chance of
getting a place, for Colonel Sibthorpe sleeps at a tavern close by, and comes
here every morning by eight o’clock and takes places for all the saints.’

April 13th, 1829

Page 217

On Friday last the Catholic Bill was read a third time, after a very dull
debate. Lord Eldon attempted to rally, and made a long and wretched
speech which lasted two hours. Nobody spoke well. The Duke in his reply
dropped all the terms of courtesy and friendship he had hitherto used in
speaking of old Eldon, and broke off with him entirely. He is disgusted at
his opposition out of doors, and at his having been the constant adviser of
the Duke of Cumberland and all the foolish Lords who have been pestering
the King at Windsor; and he is acquainted with all his tricks and underhand
proceedings, probably with more of them than we know of. He thanked the
Opposition for their support—thanks which they well merit from him—but
of course nobody is satisfied. He was before accused of ingratitude in never
taking notice of their conduct, and even it is said that he gave them to
understand he had no more need of their services, and wished to make them
his bow. I don’t believe he meant any such thing; he intended to thank them
simply, though it is probably true that he does not wish to continue in
alliance with them, and is anxious to see the Tories put themselves under his
orders again. On Saturday he sent the commission down to Windsor for the
King’s signature, with other papers as a matter of course; he would not go
himself, that there might be no fresh discussion between them.
I went on Friday morning to the Old Bailey to hear the trials,
particularly that of the women for the murder of the apprentices; the mother
was found guilty, and will be hanged to-day—has been by this time.[15] The
case exhibited a shocking scene of wretchedness and poverty, such as ought
not to exist in any community, especially in one which pretends to be so
flourishing and happy as this is. It is, I suppose, one case of many which
may be found in this town, graduating through various stages of misery and
vice. These wretched beings were described to be in the lowest state of
moral and physical degradation, with scarcely rags to cover them, food
barely sufficient to keep them alive, and working eighteen or nineteen hours
a day, without being permitted any relaxation, or even the privilege of going
to church on Sunday. I never heard more disgusting details than this
THEATRICAL FUND DINNER. trial elicited, or a case which calls more loudly for an
investigation into the law and the system under which such proceedings are
possible. Poverty, and vice, and misery must always be found in a
community like ours, but such frightful contrasts between the excess of
luxury and splendour and these scenes of starvation and brutality ought not

Page 218

to be possible; but I am afraid there is more vice, more misery and penury
in this country than in any other, and at the same time greater wealth. The
contrasts are too striking, and such an unnatural, artificial, and unjust state
of things neither can nor ought to be permanent. I am convinced that before
many years elapse these things will produce some great convulsion.
[15] [Two wretched women named Hibner were tried, and one of them convicted for the murder
of a parish apprentice named Francis Colepitts by savage ill-treatment. The elder prisoner was found
guilty and executed on the 13th of April. No such concourse of people had assembled to witness an
execution since that of Fauntleroy. The details of the crime were horrible, and had excited great
sympathy for the victim amongst all classes.—Ann. Regist. for 1829, Chronicle, p. 71.]

After the Old Bailey I went and dined at the Covent Garden Theatrical
Fund dinner. The Duke of Clarence could not come, so they put Lord
Blessington in the chair, who made an ass of himself. Among other toasts
he was to give ‘The memory of the Duke of York,’ who was the founder of
the institution. He prefaced this with a speech, but gave ‘The health,’ &c.,
on which Fawcett, who sat opposite, called out in an agony, ‘The memory,
my Lord!’ He corrected himself, but in a minute after said again ‘The
health.’ ‘The memory, my Lord!’ again roared Fawcett. It was supremely
ridiculous. Francis Leveson sat on his right, Codrington on his left, and
Lawless the agitator just opposite; he is a pale, thin, common-looking little
man, and has not at all the air of a patriot orator and agitator.

May 14th, 1829
I have been at Newmarket for three weeks, and have had no time to
write, nor has anything particular occurred. The King came to town, and
had a levee and drawing-room, the former of which was very numerously,
the other shabbily attended. At the levee he was remarkably civil to all the
Peers, particularly the Duke of Richmond, who had distinguished
themselves in opposition to Government in the late debates, and he turned
his back on the bishops who had voted for the Bill. O’Connell and Shiel
were both at the levee; the former had been presented in Ireland, so had not
to be presented again, but the King took no notice of him, and when he
went by said to somebody near him, ‘Damn the fellow! what does he come
here for?’—dignified.

Page 219

There was an odd circumstance the day of the drawing-room. The
Duke of Cumberland, as Gold Stick, gave orders at the Horse Guards that
no carriages should be admitted into the Park, and Peel and the Duke of
Wellington, when they presented themselves on their way to Court, were
refused admission. The officer on guard came to the Duke’s carriage and
said that such were his orders, but that he was sure they were not meant to
extend to his Grace, and if he would authorise him he would order the gates
to be opened. The Duke said ‘By no means,’ and then desired his carriage to
go round the other way. Many people thought that this was a piece of
impertinence of the Duke of Cumberland’s, but the Duke says that the
whole thing was a mistake. Be this as it may, the Duke of Cumberland and
the Duke of Wellington do not speak, and whenever they meet, which often
happens in society, the former moves off.
Yesterday morning Batchelor called on me, and sat with me for an
hour, telling me all sorts of details concerning the interior of Windsor and
St. James’s. The King is well in health, except that since last September he
has been afflicted with a complaint in his bladder, which both annoys and
alarms him very much. There is no appearance of stone or gravel, but
violent irritation, which is only subdued by laudanum, and always returns
when the effect of the opiate is gone off. The laudanum, too, disagrees
much with his general health. He is attended by Sir Henry Holland, Brodie,
and O’Reilly. Sir A. Cooper, who did attend him, is not now consulted, in
consequence (Batchelor thinks) of some petty intrigue in some quarter. This
O’Reilly, who has gradually insinuated himself into the King’s confidence,
and by constantly attending him at Windsor, and bringing him all the gossip
and tittle-tattle of the neighbourhood (being on the alert to pick up and retail
all he can for the King’s amusement), has made himself necessary, and is
not now to be shaken off, to the great annoyance of Knighton, who cannot
bear him, as well as of all the other people about the King, LADY CONYNGHAM.
who hate him for his meddling, mischievous character, The King’s valets de
chambre sit up alternately, and as he sleeps very ill he rings his bell every
half-hour. He talks of everybody and everything before his valets with great
freedom, except of politics, on which he never utters a word in their
presence, and he always sends them away when he sees anybody or speaks
on business of any kind. Batchelor thinks that this new disorder is a
symptom of approaching decay, and that the King thinks so himself.

Page 220

In the meantime the influence of Knighton and that of Lady
Conyngham continue as great as ever; nothing can be done but by their
permission, and they understand one another and play into each other’s
hands. Knighton opposes every kind of expense, except that which is
lavished on her. The wealth she has accumulated by savings and presents
must be enormous. The King continues to heap all kinds of presents upon
her, and she lives at his expense; they do not possess a servant; even Lord
Conyngham’s valet de chambre is not properly their servant. They all have
situations in the King’s household, from which they receive their pay, while
they continue in the service of the Conynghams. They dine every day while
in London at St. James’s, and when they give a dinner it is cooked at St.
James’s and brought up to Hamilton Place in hackney coaches and in
machines made expressly for the purpose; there is merely a fire lit in their
kitchen for such things as must be heated on the spot. At Windsor the King
sees very little of her except of an evening; he lies in bed half the day or
more, sometimes goes out, and sometimes goes to her room for an hour or
so in the afternoon, and that is all he sees of her. A more despicable scene
cannot be exhibited than that which the interior of our Court presents—
every base, low, and unmanly propensity, with selfishness, avarice, and a
life of petty intrigue and mystery.

May 16th, 1829
O’Connell attempted to take his seat last night, but the business was
put off till Monday. His case is exceedingly well got up, but too long. There
are many opinions as to his right; many people think he has established it
(though he had failed to do so), that a Bill ought to be brought in to enable
him to take the new oaths. It was supposed Government would take no part,
but Peel’s speech and the language of some of the Ministers are rather
unfavourable to him. Lord Grey, when he read the case, thought his
argument on the tenth clause of the Bill conclusive, but when he examined
the Bill he thought differently, and that the context gives a different
signification to the words on which O’Connell relies. Tierney thinks
otherwise, and this they debated Bill in hand in Lady Jersey’s room
yesterday morning. O’Connell was in a great fright when he went up to the
table. He got through the necessary forms in the Steward’s office by means

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of the Commissioners whom Duncannon provided, and who were, I believe,
Burdett and Ebrington. He ought to be allowed to take his seat, but probably
he will not; it is a very hard case.[16] The Duke of Orleans is come, and his
son, the Duke of Chartres; the latter was at the opera to-night in Prince
Leopold’s box.
[16] [O’Connell was excluded from taking his seat as member for Clare, for which he had been
elected before the passing of the Relief Act, because it was held that he was bound to take the oath
which was required by law at the time of his election, and not the oath imposed on Roman Catholics
by the recent statutes. He presented himself to be sworn at the table of the House of Commons on the
15th of May, and there refused to take the former oath, which was tendered to him by the Clerk. The
House divided 100 to 116 against his admission without taking the oath of supremacy on the 18th;
Mr. O’Connell having previously been heard at the bar in person in support of his claim.]

May 29th, 1829
O’Connell is said to have made a very good speech at the bar of the
House, and produced rather a favourable impression. He has done himself
this good, that whereas it was pretty generally thought that he was likely to
fail in the House of Commons as a speaker, he has now altered that
impression. There is but one opinion as to the wretched feeling of excluding
him, but the saddle is put upon the right horse, and though the Government
are now obliged to enforce the provisions of their own Bill, everybody
knows that the exclusion was the work of the King. O’Connell goes back to
Clare (as he says) sure of his election; there will be a great uproar, but at
present nobody expects any opposition, and all deprecate a contest.
Yesterday the King gave a dinner to the
PRINCESS VICTORIA AT A CHILD’S BALL.
Dukes of Orleans and Chartres, and in the evening there was a child’s ball.
It was pretty enough, and I saw for the first time the Queen of Portugal[17]
and our little Victoria. The Queen was finely dressed, with a ribband and
order over her shoulder, and she sat by the King. She is good-looking and
has a sensible Austrian countenance. In dancing she fell down and hurt her
face, was frightened and bruised, and went away. The King was very kind
to her. Our little Princess is a short, plain-looking child, and not near so
good-looking as the Portuguese. However, if nature has not done so much,
fortune is likely to do a great deal more for her. The King looked very well,
and stayed at the ball till two. There were very few people, and neither

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Arbuthnot nor Mrs. A. were asked. I suspect this is owing to what passed in
the House about opening the Birdcage Walk. It puts the King in a fury to
have any such thing mentioned, not having the slightest wish to
accommodate the public, though very desirous of getting money out of their
pockets.
[17] [Donna Maria II. da Gloria, Queen of Portugal, on the abdication of her father, Don Pedro,
succeeded to the throne on the 2nd of May, 1826. She was born on the 4th of April, 1819, and was
consequently but a few weeks older than the Princess Victoria.]

The day before yesterday there was a review for the Duke of Orleans,
and the Marquis of Anglesey, who was there at the head of his regiment,
contrived to get a tumble, but was not hurt. Last night at the ball the King
said to Lord Anglesey, ‘Why, Paget, what’s this I hear? they say you rolled
off your horse at the review yesterday.’ The Duke as he left the ground was
immensely cheered, and the people thronged about his horse and would
shake hands with him. When Lord Hill went to the King the day before to
give him an account of the intended review and the dispositions that had
been made, he said, ‘Hill, if I can throw my leg over your Shropshire horse,
don’t be surprised if you see me amongst you.’
The new law appointments have just been announced, and have
created some surprise.[18]
[18] [The Attorney-General, Sir Charles Wetherell, had resigned in consequence of his violent
opposition to the Catholic Relief Bill, and was succeeded by Sir James Scarlett (afterwards Lord
Abinger). The Solicitor-General, Sir Nicholas Conyngham Tindal, was raised on the 9th of June to
the Chief Justiceship of the Common Pleas; and was succeeded in the Solicitorship by Sir Edward
Burtenshaw Sugden (afterwards Lord St. Leonards). The vacancy in the Common Pleas was caused
by the resignation of Sir William Draper Best, who was created Lord Wynford for the purpose of
assisting the Chancellor with the judicial business of the House of Lords.]

June 11th, 1829
I have been at Epsom for a week; the Duke of Grafton, Lords Wilton,
Jersey, and Worcester, Russell, Anson, Irby, and myself took Down Hall for
the races and lived very well. Nothing particular has occurred. Lord and
Lady Ellenborough are separated, and he is supposed to have behaved very
handsomely to her. They say he does not now know the whole story of her
intrigue with Felix Schwarzenberg; that hero is gone to the Russian army.

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All the new appointments were declared when I was out of town, and they
excited some surprise and more disapprobation. They have made Best a
Peer, who is poor and has a family, by which another poor peerage will be
added to the list; and he is totally unfit for the situation he is to fill—that of
Deputy-Speaker of the House of Lords, and to assist the Chancellor in
deciding Scotch causes, of which he knows nothing whatever; and as the
Chancellor knows nothing either, the Scotch law is likely to be strangely
administered in that great court of appeal. They would have done better to
have made Alexander[19] a Peer, who is very old, understands Equity Law,
and has no children; but he knows very little of Common Law (which Best
is well versed in), and so they keep him on the bench and put Best on the
Woolsack. Lord Rosslyn is Privy Seal,[20] and Scarlett Attorney-General,
which looks like a leaning towards the Whigs; but then Trench and Lord
Edward Somerset are put into the Ordnance; George Bankes goes back to
the India Board, and Government supports him in his contest at Cambridge
against William Cavendish. This conduct is considered very unhandsome,
LORD PALMERSTON ON FOREIGN AFFAIRS. and Tierney, who was well disposed
towards the Government, told me yesterday that if the Duke did not take
care he thought he would get swamped with such doings, that the way he
went on was neither fish nor flesh, and he would offend more people than
he would conciliate. At present there is no party, and if Government have no
opponents they have no great body of supporters on whom they can depend;
everything is in confusion—party, politics, and all.
[19] [Sir William Alexander, then Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer. The Court of Exchequer
still retained its Equity jurisdiction.]
[20] [Lord Rosslyn was considered to be a Whig, and Sir James Scarlett was better known for
the Liberal opinions he once professed than for the Tory opinions he afterwards assumed.]

The event of last week was Palmerston’s speech on the Portuguese
question, which was delivered at a late hour and in an empty House, but
which they say was exceedingly able and eloquent. This is the second he
has made this year of great merit. It was very violent against Government.
He has been twenty years in office and never distinguished himself before,
a proof how many accidental circumstances are requisite to bring out the
talents which a man may possess. The office he held was one of dull and
dry detail, and he never travelled out of it. He probably stood in awe of
Canning and others, and was never in the Cabinet; but having lately held

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higher situations and having acquired more confidence, and the great men
having been removed from the House of Commons by death or promotion,
he has launched forth, and with astonishing success. Lord Granville told me
he had always thought Palmerston was capable of more than he did, and
had told Canning so, who did not believe it.
Yesterday the King had his racing dinner, which was more numerously
attended and just as magnificent as that he gave last year, but not half so
gay and joyous. I believe he had some gouty feeling and was in pain, for,
contrary to his usual custom, he hardly spoke, and the Duke of Richmond,
who sat next to him, told me that the little he did say was more about
politics than the turf, and he fancied that something had annoyed him. He
looked well enough, and was very cheerful before dinner. When his health
was drunk ‘as Patron of the Jockey Club, and many thanks to him for
condescending to accept that title,’ he made a speech, in which he said that
‘he was much gratified by our kindness, and he could assure us that in
withdrawing himself as he had done from the Jockey Club he was not
influenced by any unkindness to any member of it, or any indifference to
the interests of the turf.’

June 24th, 1829
Went to Stoke for the Ascot races. There was such a crowd to see the
cup run for as never was seen before. The King was very anxious and
disappointed. I bought the winner for Chesterfield[21] two hours before the
race, he having previously asked the King’s leave, which he gave with
many gracious expressions. I have set about making a reconciliation
between the King and Lord Sefton. Both are anxious to make it up, but each
is afraid to make the first advances. However, Sefton must make them, and
he will. The cause of their quarrel is very old, and signifies little enough
now.... They have been at daggers drawn ever since, and Sefton has
revenged himself by a thousand jokes at the King’s expense, of which his
Majesty is well aware. Their common pursuit, and a desire on the one side
to partake of the good things of the Palace, and on the other side to be free
from future pleasantries, has generated a mutual disposition to make it up,
which is certainly sensible. The King has bought seven horses successively,

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for which he has given 11,300 guineas, principally to win the cup at Ascot,
which he has never accomplished. He might have had Zinganee, but would
not, because he fancied the Colonel would beat him; but when that appeared
doubtful he was very sorry not to have bought him, and complained that the
horse was not offered to him. He is now extravagantly fond of Chesterfield,
who is pretty well bit by it. There is always a parcel of eldest sons and
Lords in possession invited to the Cottage for the sake of Lady Maria
Conyngham. The King likes to be treated with great deference but without
fear, and that people should be easy with him, and gay, and listen well. THE
COTTAGE. There was a grand consultation at the Cottage between the King,
Lieven, Esterhazy, and the Duke of Cumberland as to the way in which the
ladies should be placed at dinner, the object being that Lady Conyngham
should sit next to his Majesty, though according to etiquette the two
Ambassadresses should sit one on each side of him. It was contrived by the
Duke of Cumberland taking out one of them and sitting opposite, by which
means the lovely Thais sat beside him and he was happy.
[21] [George Augustus, sixth Earl of Chesterfield, born in 1805, died in 1866. He married in
1830 Anne, daughter of Lord Forester. In 1829 he was one of the most brilliant of the young men of
fashion of that day, having succeeded to a large rental and large accumulations in his minority.]

June 26th, 1829
I met Tierney and Lord Grey at dinner yesterday; the former wanted to
know what passed about the King’s Speech at the Council at Windsor the
other day. I had heard nothing, not having been at the Council, but it is
believed that the Ministers had put in the Speech a sentence expressive of
satisfaction and sanguine hopes about Ireland, and that at the last moment
the King would not agree to this; for after the Duke’s audience, which
lasted a good while, there was a Cabinet, and it is supposed they knocked
under, for the paragraph about Ireland is cold enough. The Duke of
Cumberland is thought to have had a hand in all this, and to have persuaded
the King to be obstinate. We talked a great deal about the situation of the
Government and the state of the House of Commons, and Tierney thinks
that unless the Duke strengthens himself he will not be able to go on; that
Rosslyn and Scarlett are of little use to him, and what he wants is the
support of those who will bring followers in their train, such as Althorp,

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who has extensive connections, enjoys consideration, and would be of real
use to him. There is a strong report that Althorp is to be Chancellor of the
Exchequer, Goulburn Speaker, and Sutton[22] a Peer. At present the
Government is anything but strong, but then there exists no party, nor is
there any man of ability and authority enough to make one. The Duke must
strengthen himself, and have recourse for the purpose either to the Whigs or
to Huskisson and his friends. These latter he detests, and he knows they
hate him and are his bitterest enemies. The Whigs he would not dislike so
much, but the King is averse to have them, and the Duke is beset by his old
suspicion that they want to break up the Tory party and make him
dependent on themselves. At the same time, in taking in Lord Rosslyn and
Scarlett, he has made some advances towards them, though Lord Grey is
displeased at his not having shown him more deference and communicated
to him his intentions about Rosslyn. Lord Rosslyn asked Lord Grey’s
advice as to accepting, and he advised him to take office, explaining at the
same time that he should not pledge himself to support Government, though
he was at present well disposed to do so, and should be still more disposed
when Lord Rosslyn became a part of it. Tierney said it was very lamentable
that there should be such a deficiency of talent in the rising generation, and
remarkable how few clever young men there are now in the House of
Commons. The King did not like Lord Rosslyn’s appointment; he hates all
the Whigs; indeed, he hates the best men of all parties, and likes none but
such as will be subservient to himself. So little public spirit has he, and so
much selfishness, that he would rather his Government was weak than
strong, that they may be the more dependent upon him; though he only
wishes to be powerful in order to exercise the most puerile caprices, gratify
ridiculous resentments, indulge vulgar prejudices, and amass or squander
money; not one great object connected with national glory or prosperity
ever enters his brain. I am convinced he would turn out the Duke to-morrow
if he could see any means of replacing him. I don’t think I mentioned that
when he talked of giving the child’s ball Lady Maria Conyngham said, ‘Oh,
do, it will be so nice to see the two little Queens dancing together’ (the little
Queen of Portugal and the Princess Victoria), at which he was beyond
measure provoked.
[22] [Right Hon. Manners Sutton, Speaker of the House of Commons. He retained that office till
1835, when he was beaten on the great contest with Mr. Abercromby, and raised to the peerage as
Lord Canterbury.]

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July 10th, 1829
I dined with the Duke of Wellington yesterday; a very large party for
Mesdames the Duchesse d’Escars and Madame du Cayla; the first is the
widow of the Duc MADAME DU CAYLA. d’Escars, who was Premier Maître
d’Hôtel of Louis XVIII., and who was said to have died of one of the
King’s good dinners, and the joke was, ‘Hier sa Majesté a eu une
indigestion, dont M. le Duc d’Escars est mort.’ Madame du Cayla[23] is
come over to prosecute some claim upon this Government, which the Duke
has discovered to be unfounded, and he had the bluntness to tell her so as
they were going to dinner. She must have been good-looking in her youth;
her countenance is lively, her eyes are piercing, clear complexion, and very
handsome hands and arms; but the best part about her seemed to be the
magnificent pearls she wore, though these are not so fine as Lady
Conyngham’s. All king’s mistresses seem to have a rage for pearls; I
remember Madame Narischkin’s were splendid. Madame du Cayla is said
to be very rich and clever.
[23] [Madame du Cayla had been the soi-disant mistress of Louis XVIII., or rather the favourite
of his declining years. ‘Il fallait une Esther,’ to use her own expression, ‘à cet Assuérus.’ She was the
daughter of M. Talon, brought up by Madam Campan, and an early friend of Hortense Beauharnais.
Her marriage to an officer in the Prince de Condé’s army was an unhappy one; and she was left,
deserted by her husband, in straitened circumstances. After the assassination of the Duc de Berry, M.
de la Rochefoucauld, one of the leaders of the ultra-Royalist party, contrived to throw her in the way
of Louis XVIII., in the hope of counteracting the more Liberal influence which M. de Cazes had
acquired over the King. Madame du Cayla became the hope and the mainstay of the altar and the
throne. The scheme succeeded. The King was touched by her grace and beauty, and she became
indispensable to his happiness. His happiness was said to consist in inhaling a pinch of snuff from her
shoulders, which were remarkably broad and fair. M. de Lamartine has related the romance of her life
in the thirty-eighth book of his ‘Histoire de la Restauration,’ and Béranger satirised her in the
bitterest of his songs—that which bears the name of ‘Octavie’:—
Sur les coussins où la douleur l’enchaîne
Quel mal, dis-tu, vous fait ce roi des rois?
Vois-le d’un masque enjoliver sa haine
Pour étouffer notre gloire et nos lois.
Vois ce coeur faux, que cherchent tes caresses,
De tous les siens n’aimer que ses aïeux;
Charger de fer les muses vengeresses,
Et par ses moeurs nous révéler ses dieux.
Peins-nous ces feux, qu’en secret tu redoutes,
Quand sur ton sein il cuve son nectar,
Ces feux dont s’indignaient les voûtes
Où plane encor l’aigle du grand César.

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It is curious that in 1829 the last mistress of a King of France should have visited London under
the reign of the last mistress of a King of England.]

After dinner the Duke talked to me for a long time about the King and
the Duke of Cumberland, and his quarrel with the latter. He began about the
King’s making Lord Aberdeen stay at the Cottage the other day when he
had engaged all the foreign Ambassadors to dine with him in London.
Aberdeen represented this to him, but his Majesty said ‘it did not matter, he
should stay, and the Ambassadors should for once see that he was King of
England.’ ‘He has no idea,’ said the Duke, ‘of what a King of England
ought to do, or he would have known that he ought to have made Aberdeen
go and receive them, instead of keeping him there.’ He said the King was
very clever and amusing, but that with a surprising memory he was very
inaccurate, and constantly told stories the details of which all his auditors
must know to be false. One day he was talking of the late King, and
asserted that George III. had said to himself, ‘Of all the men I have ever
known you are the one on whom I have the greatest dependence, and you
are the most perfect gentleman.’ Another day he said ‘that he recollected the
old Lord Chesterfield, who once said to him, “Sir, you are the fourth Prince
of Wales I have known, and I must give your Royal Highness one piece of
advice: stick to your father; as long as you adhere to your father you will be
a great and a happy man, but if you separate yourself from him you will be
nothing and an unhappy one;” and, by God (added the King), I never forgot
that advice, and acted upon it all my life.’ ‘We all,’ said the Duke, ‘looked at
one another with astonishment.’ He is extremely clever and particularly
ingenious in turning the conversation from any subject he does not like to
discuss.
‘I,’ added the Duke of Wellington,

‘remember calling upon him the day he received the news of the
battle of Navarino. I was not a Minister, but Commander-in-
Chief, and after having told me the news he asked me what I
thought of it. I said that I knew nothing about it, was WELLINGTON’S
ANECDOTES OF GEORGE IV. ignorant of the instructions that had been
given to the admiral, and could not give any opinion; but “one
thing is clear to me, that your Majesty’s ships have suffered very
much, and that you ought to reinforce your fleet directly, for

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whenever you have a maritime force yours ought to be superior
to all others.” This advice he did not like; I saw this, and he said,
“Oh, the Emperor of Russia is a man of honour,” and then he
began talking, and went on to Venice, Toulon, St. Petersburg, all
over the Continent, and from one place and one subject to
another, till he brought me to Windsor Castle. I make it a rule
never to interrupt him, and when in this way he tries to get rid of
a subject in the way of business which he does not like, I let him
talk himself out, and then quietly put before him the matter in
question, so that he cannot escape from it. I remember when the
Duke of Newcastle was going to Windsor with a mob at his
heels to present a petition (during the late discussions) I went
down to him and showed him the petition, and told him that they
ought to be prevented from coming. He went off and talked
upon every subject but that which I had come about, for an hour
and a half. I let him go on till he was tired, and then I said, “But
the petition, sir; here it is, and an answer must be sent. I had
better write to the Duke of Newcastle and tell him your Majesty
will receive it through the Secretary of State; and, if you please,
I will write the letter before I leave the house.” This I did,
finished my business in five minutes, and went away with the
letter in my pocket. I know him so well that I can deal with him
easily, but anybody who does not know him, and who is afraid
of him, would have the greatest difficulty in getting on with him.
One extraordinary peculiarity about him is, that the only thing
he fears is ridicule. He is afraid of nothing which is hazardous,
perilous, or uncertain; on the contrary, he is all for braving
difficulties; but he dreads ridicule, and this is the reason why the
Duke of Cumberland, whose sarcasms he dreads, has such
power over him, and Lord Anglesey likewise; both of them he
hates in proportion as he fears them.’

I said I was very much, surprised to hear this, as neither of these men were
wits, or likely to make him ridiculous; that if he had been afraid of Sefton
or Alvanley it could have been understood. ‘But,’ rejoined the Duke,

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‘he never sees these men, and he does not mind anybody he
does not see; but the Duke of Cumberland and Lord Anglesey he
cannot avoid seeing, and the fear he has of what they may say to
him, as well as of him, keeps him in awe of them. No man,
however, knows the Duke of Cumberland better than he does;
indeed, all I know of the Duke of Cumberland I know from him,
and so I told him one day. I remember asking him why the Duke
of Cumberland was so unpopular, and he said, “Because there
never was a father well with his son, or husband with his wife,
or lover with his mistress, or a friend with his friend, that he did
not try to make mischief between them.” And yet he suffers this
man to have constant access to him, to say what he will to him,
and often acts under his influence.’

I said, ‘You and the Duke of Cumberland speak now, don’t you?’

‘Yes, we speak. The King spoke to me about it, and wanted me
to make him an apology. I told him it was quite impossible,
“Why,” said he, “you did not mean to offend the Duke of
Cumberland, I am sure.” “No, sir,” said I; “I did not wish to
offend him, but I did not say a word that I did not mean. When
we meet the Royal Family in society, they are our superiors, and
we owe them all respect, and I should readily apologise for
anything I might have said offensive to the Duke; but in the
House of Lords we are their peers, and for what I say there I am
responsible to the House alone.” “But,” said the King, “he said
you turned on him as if you meant to address yourself to him
personally.” “I did mean it, sir,” said I, “and I did so because I
knew that he had been here, that he had heard things from your
Majesty which he had gone and misrepresented and misstated in
other quarters, and knowing that, I meant to show him that I was
aware of it. I am sorry that the Duke is offended, but I cannot
help it, and I cannot make him an apology.” ’

The Duke went on,

‘I was so afraid he would tell the DUKES OF WELLINGTON AND
CUMBERLAND. Duke that I was sorry for what I had said, that I

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repeated to him when I went away, “Now, sir, remember that I
will not apologise to the Duke, and I hope your Majesty will
therefore not convey any such idea to his mind.” However, he
spoke to him, I suppose, for the next time I met the Duke he
bowed to me. I immediately called on him, but he did not return
my visit. On a subsequent occasion [I forget what he said it was]
I called on him again, and he returned my visit the same day.’

The Duke then talked of the letter which the Duke of Cumberland had
just written (as Grand Master of the Orange Lodges) to Enniskillen, which
he thought was published with the most mischievous intentions. However,
he said,

‘I know not what he is at, but while I am conscious of going on
in a straightforward manner I am not afraid of him, or of
anything he can do,’

which I was surprised to hear, because it looked as if he was afraid of him. I
asked him whether, with all the cleverness he thought belonged to the King,
he evinced great acuteness in discussing matters of business, to which he
replied, ‘Oh, no, not at all, the worst judgment that can be.’ This was not the
first time I had heard the Duke’s opinion of the King. I remember him
saying something to the Duke of Portland about him during the Queen’s
trial indicative of his contempt for him.
In the meantime the Duke of Cumberland, instead of returning to
Berlin, has sent for the Duchess and his son, and means to take up his abode
in this country, in hopes of prevailing upon the King to dismiss his
Ministers and make a Government under his own auspices; but however
weak the Government may be, he will not succeed, for the King has an
habitual reliance upon the Duke [of Wellington] which overcomes the
mortification and dislike he feels at being dependent upon him; and,
besides, the materials do not exist out of which a Government could be
formed that would have the support of the House of Commons. The great
want which this Administration experiences is that of men of sufficient
information and capacity to direct the complicated machinery of our trade
and finances and adjust our colonial differences. Huskisson, Grant, and
Palmerston were the ablest men, and the two first the best informed in the

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Government. Fitzgerald knows nothing of the business of his office, still
less of the principles of trade; he is idle, but quick. Of Murray I know
nothing; he is popular in his office, but he has neither the capacity nor the
knowledge of Huskisson.

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CHAPTER VI.
The Recorder’s report — Manners of George IV. — Intrigues of
the Duke of Cumberland — Insults Lady Lyndhurst — Deacon
Hume at the Board of Trade — Quarrel between the Duke of
Cumberland and the Lord Chancellor — A Bad Season —
Prostration of Turkey — France under Polignac — State of
Ireland — Mr. Windham’s Diary — George IV.’s Eyesight —
Junius — A Man without Money — Court-martial on Captain
Dickinson — The Duke and the ‘Morning Journal’ — Physical
Courage of the King — A Charade at Chatsworth — Huskisson
and the Duke — Irish Trials — Tom Moore — Scott — Byron
— Fanny Kemble — Sir James Mackintosh — His
Conversation — Black Irishmen — Moore’s Irish Story —
Moore’s Singing — George IV. and Mr. Denman — Strawberry
Hill — Moore at Trinity College — Indian Vengeance at
Niagara — Count Woronzow — Lord Glengall’s Play — The
Recorder’s Report.

July 21st, 1829
There was a Council last Thursday, and the heaviest Recorder’s report
that was ever known, I believe; seven people left for execution. The King
cannot bear this, and is always leaning to the side of mercy. Lord Tenterden,
however, is for severity, and the Recorder still more so. It not unfrequently
happens that a culprit escapes owing to the scruples of the King; sometimes
he put the question of life or death to the vote, and it is decided by the
voices of the majority. The King came to town at one, and gave audiences
until half-past four. He received Madame du Cayla, whom he was very
curious to see. She told me afterwards that she was astonished at his good
looks, and seemed particularly to have been struck with his ‘belles jambes

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et sa perruque bien arrangée;’ and I asked her if she had ever seen him
before, and she said no, ‘mais que le feu Roi lui en avait souvent parlé, et de
ses belles manières, qu’en vérité elle les avait trouvées parfaites.’ There was
a reigning Margrave of Baden waiting for an audience in the room we
assembled in. Nobody took much notice of him, and when the Duke spoke
to him he bowed to the ground, bow after bow; when he went away nobody
attended him or opened the door for him.

July 24th, 1829
The accounts from Ireland are very bad; nothing but massacres and
tumults, and all got up by the Protestants, who desire nothing so much as to
provoke the Catholics into acts of violence and outrage. They want a man of
energy and determination who will cause the law to be respected and
impartially administered. If Lord Anglesey was there, it is very probable
these outrages would not have taken place, but no one cares for such a man
of straw as the present Lord Lieutenant.
The Duke of Cumberland is doing all he can to set the King against the
Duke; he always calls him ‘King Arthur,’ which made the King very angry
at first, and he desired he would not, but he calls him so still, and the King
submits. He never lets any of the Royal Family see the King alone; the
Duchess of Gloucester complains bitterly of his conduct, and the way in
which he thrusts himself in when she is with his Majesty. The other day
Count Münster came to the King, and the Duke of Cumberland was
determined he should not have a private audience, and stayed in the room
the whole time. He hates Lady Conyngham, and she him. They put about
that he has been pressed to stay here by the King, which is not true; the
King would much rather he went away. The Duke of Wellington told me
that he one day asked the King when the Duke was going, and he said, ‘I
am sick to death of the subject. I have been told he was going fifty times,
but when he goes, or whether he ever goes at all, I have not the least idea.’
He is now very much provoked because the King will not talk politics with
him. His Majesty wants to be quiet, and is tired of all the Duke’s violence
and his constant attacks.

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August 8th, 1829
There is a story current about the Duke of Cumberland and Lady
Lyndhurst which is more true than most stories of this kind. The Duke
called upon her, and grossly insulted her; on which, after a scramble, she
rang INTRIGUES OF THE DUKE OF CUMBERLAND. the bell. He was obliged to desist and
to go away, but before he did he said, ‘By God, madam, I will be the ruin of
you and your husband, and will not rest till I have destroyed you both.’
Vesey Fitzgerald has turned out the Chief Clerk in the Board of Trade,
and put in Hume[1] as Assistant Secretary. He told me it was absolutely
necessary, as nobody in the Office knew anything of its business, which is, I
believe, very true, but as true of himself as of the rest. Hume is a very
clever man, and probably knows more of the principles of trade and
commerce than anybody, but so it is in every department of Government—
great ignorance on the part of the chiefs, and a few obscure men of industry
and ability who do the business and supply the knowledge requisite, sic vos
non vobis throughout.

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[1] [Mr. Deacon Hume, a very able public servant. He remained at the Board of Trade many
years.]

O’Connell was elected without opposition; he was more violent and
more popular than ever. They treat him with every indignity, and then they
complain of his violence; besides, he must speak to the Irish in the strain to
which they have been used and which pleases them. Had he never been
violent, he would not be the man he is, and Ireland would not have been
emancipated.

August 18th, 1829
Last Saturday I came back from Goodwood, and called on Lady
Jersey, whom I found very curious about a correspondence which she told
me had taken place between the Duke of Cumberland and the Chancellor
relative to a paragraph which had appeared in the ‘Age,’ stating that his
Royal Highness had been turned out of Lady Lyndhurst’s house in
consequence of having insulted her in it. She said she was very anxious to
see the letter, for she heard that the Duke had much the best of it, and that
the Chancellor’s letter was evasive and Jesuitical. The next day I was
informed of the details of this affair. I found that the Duke had called upon
her and had been denied; that he had complained half in jest, and half in
earnest, to the Chancellor of her not letting him in; that on a subsequent day
he had called so early that no orders had been given to the porter, and he
was let in; that his manner and his language had been equally brutal and
offensive; that he afterwards went off upon politics, and abused the whole
Administration, and particularly the Chancellor, and after staying two or
three hours, insulting and offending her in every way, he took himself off.
Soon after he met her somewhere in the evening, when he attacked her
again. She treated him with all possible indignation, and would have
nothing to say to him.
Yesterday I met the Chancellor at the Castle at a Council. He took me
aside, and said that he wished to tell me what had passed, and to show me
the correspondence. He then began, and said that after the Duke’s visit Lady
L. had told the Chancellor of his abuse of him and the Government, but had
suppressed the rest, thinking it was better not to tell him, as it would put

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him in a very embarrassing position, and contenting herself with saying she
would never receive the Duke again upon the other grounds, which were
quite sufficient; but that some time after reports reached her from various
quarters (Lord Grey, Lord Durham, Lord Dudley, and several others) that
the Duke went about talking of her in the most gross and impertinent
manner. Upon hearing this, she thought it right to tell the Chancellor the
other part of his conduct which she had hitherto concealed, and this she did
in general terms, viz. that he had been very insolent and made an attack
upon her. The Chancellor was exceedingly incensed, but he said after much
consideration he thought it better to let the matter drop; a long time had
elapsed since the offence was committed; all communication had ceased
between all the parties; and he felt the ridicule and inconvenience of putting
himself (holding the high office he did) in personal collision with a Royal
Duke, besides the annoyance which it would be to Lady Lyndhurst to
become publicly the subject of such a quarrel. There, then, he let the matter
rest, but about a fortnight ago he received a letter from the Duke enclosing a
newspaper to this effect, as well as I can recollect it, for I was QUARREL OF
CUMBERLAND AND LYNDHURST. obliged to read the letter in such a hurried way that
I could not bring the exact contents away with me, though I am sure I do
not err in stating their sense:—

‘My Lord,—I think it necessary to enclose to your
Lordship a newspaper containing a paragraph which I have
marked, and which relates to a pretended transaction in your
Lordship’s house. I think it necessary and proper to contradict
this statement, which I need not say is a gross falsehood, and I
wish, therefore, to have the authority of Lady Lyndhurst for
contradicting it.
‘I am, my Lord, yours sincerely,
‘Ernest.’

This was the sense of the letter, though it was not so worded; it was
civil enough. The Chancellor answered:—‘The Lord Chancellor with his
duty begs to acknowledge the favour of your Royal Highness’s letter. The
Lord Chancellor had never seen the paragraph to which your Royal
Highness alludes, and which he regards with the most perfect indifference,

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considering it as one of that series of calumnies to which Lady Lyndhurst
has been for some time exposed from a portion of the press, and which she
has at length learnt to regard with the contempt they deserve.’ He said that
he thought it better to let the matter drop, and he wrote this answer by way
of waiving any discussion on the subject, and that the Duke might
contradict the paragraph himself if he chose to do so. To this the Duke
wrote again:—‘My Lord,—I have received your Lordship’s answer, which
is not so explicit as I have a right to expect. I repeat again that the statement
is false and scandalous, and I have a right to require Lady Lyndhurst’s
sanction to the contradiction which I think it necessary to give to it.’ This
letter was written in a more impertinent style than the other. On the receipt
of it the Chancellor consulted the Duke of Wellington, and the Duke
suggested the following answer, which the Chancellor sent:—‘The Lord
Chancellor has had the honour of receiving your Royal Highness’s letter of
——. The Lord Chancellor does not conceive it necessary to annoy Lady
Lyndhurst by troubling her upon the subject, and with what relates to your
Royal Highness the Lord Chancellor has no concern whatever; but with
regard to that part which states that your Royal Highness had been excluded
from the Lord Chancellor’s house, there could be no question that the
respect and grateful attachment which both the Chancellor and Lady
Lyndhurst felt to their Sovereign made it impossible that any brother of that
Sovereign should ever be turned out of his house.’ To this the Duke wrote
another letter, in a very sneering and impertinent tone in the third person,
and alluding to the loose reports which had been current on the subject, and
saying that ‘the Chancellor might have his own reasons for not choosing to
speak to Lady Lyndhurst on the subject;’ to which the Chancellor replied
that ‘he knew nothing of any loose reports, but that if there were any, in
whatever quarter they might have originated, which went to affect the
conduct of Lady Lyndhurst in the matter in question, they were most false,
foul, and calumnious.’ So ended the correspondence; all these latter
expressions were intended to apply to the Duke himself, who is the person
who spread the loose reports and told the lies about her. When she first
denied him, she told Lord Bathurst of it, who assured her she had done
quite right, and that she had better never let him in, for if she did he would
surely invent some lies about her. Last Sunday week the Chancellor went
down to Windsor, and laid the whole correspondence before the King, who
received him very well, and approved of what he had done; but of course

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when he saw the Duke of Cumberland and heard his story, he concurred in
all his abuse of the Chancellor. I think the Chancellor treated the matter in
the best way the case admitted of. Had he taken it up, he must have resigned
his office and called the Duke out, and what a mixture of folly and scandal
this would have been, and how the woman would have suffered in it all!

August 22nd, 1829
The day before yesterday Sir Henry Cooke called on me, and told me
that he came on the part of the Duke of Cumberland, who had heard that I
had seen the QUARREL OF CUMBERLAND AND LYNDHURST. correspondence, and that I
had given an account of it which was unfavourable to him, that his Royal
Highness wished me, therefore, to call on him and hear his statement of the
facts. Cooke then entered into the history, and told me that it was he who
had originally acquainted the Duke with the reports which were current
about him, and had advised him to contradict them, but that he had not
found any opportunity of taking it up till this paragraph appeared in the
‘Age’ newspaper; that the Duke had given him an account of what had
passed, which was that Lady Lyndhurst had begged him to call upon her,
then to dine with her, and upon every occasion had encouraged him. I heard
all he had to say, but declined calling on the Duke. As I wished, however,
that there should be no misrepresentation in what I said on the subject, I
wrote a letter to Cooke, to be laid before the Duke, in which I gave an
account of the circumstances under which I had been concerned in the
business, stating that I had not expressed any opinion of the conduct of the
parties, and that I did not wish to be in any way mixed up in it. After I had
seen Cooke I went to the Chancellor and read my letter to him. I found he
had not shown the King the two last letters that had passed; and as Cooke
had told me that the Duke meant to go to Windsor the next day and lay the
whole correspondence before the King, the Chancellor immediately sent off
a messenger with the two letters which the King had not seen. The
Chancellor has since circulated the correspondence among his friends, but
with rather too undignified a desire to submit his conduct to the judgment of
a parcel of people who only laugh at them both, and are amused with the
gossip and malice of the thing.

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August 25th, 1829
I came to town from Stoke yesterday morning, and found a palavering
letter from Cooke, returning mine, saying that the Duke was quite satisfied,
and saw that it would be useless to have an interview with me; that he had
persuaded his Royal Highness to drop the whole affair; and ended with
many protestations of respect for the Chancellor and the purity of his own
motives in meddling with the matter. I sent his letter to the Chancellor,
together with my own, that he might show them both to the Duke of
Wellington.
Melbourne, who is a pretty good judge of Irish affairs, thinks that
Government will probably be under the necessity of adopting strong
coercive measures there; but whether they are adopted, or a temporary
policy of expedients persisted in, nobody is there fit to advise what is
requisite. The Duke of Northumberland is an absolute nullity, a bore beyond
all bores, and, in spite of his desire to spend money and be affable, very
unpopular. The Duchess complains of it and can’t imagine why, for they do
all they can to be liked, but all in vain.

August 28th, 1829
At Stoke since Tuesday for the Egham races; Esterhazy, Alvanley,
Montrond, Mornay, B. Craven, &c. The King came to the races one day (the
day I was not there) in excellent health. The weather exceeds everything
that ever was known—a constant succession of gales of wind and tempests
of rain, and the sun never shining. The oats are not cut, and a second crop is
growing up, that has been shaken out of the first. Everybody contemplates
with dismay the approach of winter, which will probably bring with it the
overthrow of the Corn Laws, for corn must be at such a price as to admit of
an immense importation. So much for our domestic prospect here, to say
nothing of Ireland.
In the meantime the Sultan with his firmness has brought the Russians
to the gates of Constantinople, and not a soul doubts that they are already
there, or that they will be directly; there is nothing to resist either Diebitsch
or Paskiewitch. Esterhazy talks of it as certain, and so unaccountable does it

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seem that Austria should have been a passive spectator of the Russian
victories, that a strong notion prevails that Metternich has made his bargain
with them, and that in the impending partition Austria is to have her share.
Still more extraordinary does it appear that the Duke, from whom vigour
and firmness might have been expected, should not have interfered. That
cursed treaty of the 6th of July, and the subsequent battle of Navarino,
which were intended RUSSIA AND TURKEY. to give us a right to arrest the ambition
of Russia, have been rendered nugatory by the obstinacy of the Turks on the
one hand, and the perpetual changes of Administration here and in France,
which have prevented any steady and consistent course of policy from
being followed; while the Russians, availing themselves of both these
circumstances, have pushed on with singleness of purpose and great vigour
of execution. It is quite impossible now to foresee the end of all this, but the
elements are abroad of as fine disturbances as the most restless can desire.
France is probably too much occupied with her own affairs to pay
much attention to those of Turkey, nor is it clear that the French would
much regret any event which tended to impair our commercial greatness. So
busy are the French with their own politics, that even the milliners have left
off making caps. Lady Cowper told me to-day that Madame Maradan
complained that she could get no bonnets, &c., from Paris; for they would
occupy themselves with nothing but the change of Administration.[2]
Nothing can exceed the violence that prevails; the King does nothing but
cry. Polignac is said to have the fatal obstinacy of a martyr, the worst sort of
courage of the ruat cœlum sort. Aberdeen said at dinner at Madame de
Lieven’s the other day that he thought him a very clever man; and that the
Duke of Wellington went still further, for he said that he was the ablest man
France had had since the Restoration. I remember him well when he was
courting his first wife, Archy Macdonald’s sister; and if being first a
prisoner, then an emigrant, then a miser, and now a saint can make him a
good Minister, he may be one.
[2] [The Polignac Ministry took office on the 8th of August.]

August 31st, 1829

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The Duke, the Chancellor, and Privy Seal came from Walmer to-day
for a Cabinet; and Esterhazy, who was to have dined with me, sent word
that as he had received a courier this morning, and was obliged to send off
Dietrichstein this evening, he could not come. It is said that Sir Frederick
Gordon has sent word that the Turks are frightened and wish to treat, but
probably it is now too late.
Last night news came that Villa Flor had routed Miguel’s expedition
against Terceira, and at the same time the little Queen is embarking with the
Empress for the Brazils. This probably comes too late; some time ago it
might have been of some use. Miguel will probably be recognised by this
country, and then the game is up. I have long been convinced that the Duke
meant eventually to acknowledge Miguel, or he would not have tolerated
Beresford’s conduct. If Lamb is to be believed, Beresford was secretly in it
all.
I met the Chancellor this morning, who gave me back my letter and
Cooke’s answer. He said, ‘There are other reports afloat now, I hear.’ I said,
‘What? I have heard none.’ ‘Oh,’ he said, ‘on public matters, and they are
put about by that blackguard,’ meaning the Duke of Cumberland. I suppose
he alludes to changes in the Government, but I have heard of none; they are,
in fact, kept in hot water by this fellow’s activity, though I think he cannot
do the mischief he would, like.
From what I hear, it is probable that Lord William Bentinck will be
speedily recalled from India. His measures are of too Liberal a cast to suit
the taste of the present Government. The Duke has never liked him, not
since the war in Spain, when he did not behave quite well to Lord William,
and he seldom forgets old animosities; besides, he cannot bear anybody
who takes a line of their own.
Lord Ellenborough, strong in the concurrence of the Duke, is inclined
to be insolent in his tone to Lord William, which, I take it, he will not stand.
The Duke looks upon Lord William as a hasty, imprudent man, with bad
judgment, and I am not sure that he is very wrong. He has made himself
popular by the affability and bonhomie of his manner, his magnificence and
hospitality, and the liberal and generous character of his political opinions,

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but he is far from a clever man, and I suspect his judgment is very
indifferent.
I hear from Ireland that Doherty conducts the trial of the policeman
with consummate skill; the object was that the trial should appear fair, and
that the men should be acquitted. They were acquitted, and the people were
furious. MR. WINDHAM’S DIARY. There is excitement enough in that wretched
country, and every effort is made to keep it up at its highest pitch; the press
on each side teems with accusations and invectives, and the Protestants
strain every nerve to inflame the spirit of rancorous fury which
distinguished the Brunswickers before the Catholic question was carried,
and to provoke the Catholics to overt acts of violence. Both sides are to
blame, but the Protestants the most. George Villiers wrote me word of a
crime that has been perpetrated, the most atrocious I ever heard of.... The
country in which such an abomination was perpetrated should be visited
with the fate of Sodom and Gomorrah. The arm of justice is too slow;
public indignation should deal out a rapid and a terrible vengeance.

September 5th, 1829
There is a strong report that the Turks want to treat, and the
proclamation of Diebitsch looks as if the Russians were ready to make
peace. There is also a hope that the Russian army may have been too bold,
and finds itself in a scrape by having advanced too far from its resources,
but the former notion is the most likely of the two. Three or four sail of the
line are ordered out to the Mediterranean.
Yesterday I went with Amyot to his house, where he showed me a part
of Windham’s diary; there are twenty-eight little volumes of it, begun in
1784, when he was thirty-four years old, and continued irregularly till his
death; it seems to be written very freely and familiarly, and is probably a
correct picture of the writer’s mind. I only read a few pages, which were
chiefly notices of his moving about, where he dined, the company he met,
and other trifles, often very trifling and sometimes not very decent; it
abounds with expressions of self-reproach for idleness, breach of
resolutions, and not taking care of his health; talks of the books he reads
and means to read, and constantly describes the state of spirits he is in.

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There is a paper containing an account of his last interview with Johnson,
shortly before Johnson died; he says that he told Johnson how much he
reproached himself for not having lived more in his society, and that he had
often resolved to be with him as much as he could, but that his not having
done so was a proof of the fallacy of our resolutions, that he regretted. In
Windham’s diary are several Johnsoniana, after the manner of Boswell,
only much shorter, his opinions on one or two subjects briefly given, some
quotations and criticisms. I was much struck with his criticisms on Virgil,
whom he seems to have held in great contempt, and to have regarded as
inferior to Ovid. He says, ‘Take away his imitation of Homer, and what do
you leave him?’ Of Homer his admiration was unbounded, although he says
that he never read the whole of the ‘Odyssey’ in the original, but that
everything which is most admirable in poetry is to be found in Homer. I
care the less about remembering these things because they will probably
appear in print before long.[3]
[3] [A selection from Mr. Windham’s journals was published by Mrs. Henry Baring in 1866. The
Johnsoniana had previously been published by Mr. Croker in his edition of Boswell’s ‘Life of
Johnson.’]

Windham told Johnson that he regretted having omitted to talk to him
of the most important of all subjects on which he had often doubted.
Johnson said, ‘You mean natural and revealed religion,’ and added that the
historical evidences of Christianity were so strong that it was not possible to
doubt its truth, that we had not so much evidence that Cæsar died in the
Capitol as that Christ died in the manner related in the Bible; that three out
of four of the Evangelists died in attestation of their evidence, that the same
evidence would be considered irresistible in any ordinary historical case.
Amyot told me, as we were coming along, that Windham had questioned
Johnson about religion, having doubts, and that Johnson had removed them
by this declaration: if, then, the commonest and hundred times repeated
arguments were sufficient to remove such doubts as were likely to occur to
a mind like Windham’s, it may be counted a miracle, for I am sure, in the
ordinary affairs of life, Windham would not have been so easily satisfied. It
has always appeared to me questionable whether Johnson was a believer (I
mean whether his clear and unbiassed judgment was satisfied) in
Christianity; he evidently dreaded and disliked the WELLINGTON AND THE
‘MORNING JOURNAL.’ subject, and though he would have been indignant had
anybody hinted that he had doubts, his nervous irritation at any religious

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discussion betokened a mind ill at ease on the subject. I learnt one thing
from Windham’s diary which I put into immediate practice, and that is, to
write mine on one side only, and leave the other for other matters connected
with the text; it is more convenient certainly.

September 16th, 1829
Went to Brighton on Saturday last to pay Lady Jersey a visit and shoot
at Firle. Jersey and I shot 376 rabbits, the greatest number that had ever
been killed on the hills. The scenery is very fine—a range of downs looking
on one side over the sea, and on the other over a wide extent of rich flat
country. It is said that Firle is the oldest park in England. It belongs to Lord
Gage.
I heard at Brighton for the first time of the Duke of Wellington’s
prosecution of the ‘Morning Journal,’ which was announced by the paper
itself in a paragraph quite as scurrilous as those for which it is attacked. It
seems that he has long made up his mind to this measure, and that he thinks
it is a duty incumbent on him, which I do not see, and it appears to me to be
an act of great folly. He stands much too high, has performed too great
actions, and the attacks on him were too vulgar and vague to be under the
necessity of any such retaliatory measure as this, and he lowers his dignity
by entering into a conflict with such an infamous paper, and appearing to
care about its abuse. I think the Chancellor was right, and that he is wrong.
There is a report that the King insists upon the Duke of Cumberland being
Commander-in-Chief, and it is extraordinary how many people think that he
will succeed in turning out the Duke. Lord Harrington died while I was at
Brighton, and it is supposed that the Duke of Cumberland will try and get
the Round Tower,[4] but probably the King will not like to establish him so
near himself. The King has nearly lost his eyesight, and is to be couched as
soon as his eyes are in a proper state for the operation. He is in a great fright
with his father’s fate before him, and indeed nothing is more probable than
that he will become blind and mad too; he is already a little of both. It is
now a question of appointing a Private Secretary, and Knighton, it is
supposed, would be the man; but if he is to abstain from all business, there

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would seem to be no necessity for the appointment, as he will be as little
able to do business with his Private Secretary as with his Minister.
[4] Lord Conyngham got the Round Tower, and Lord Combermere the regiment—[C.C.G.]

I have been living at Fulham at Lord Wharncliffe’s villa for six or
seven weeks; I have lived here in idleness and luxury, giving dinners, and
wasting my time and my money rather more than usual. I have read next to
nothing since I have been here; I am ashamed to think how little—in short,
a most unprofitable life.

September 23rd, 1829
At Fulham till Friday, when I came to town. Went to Stoke on
Saturday, and returned yesterday; old Lady Salisbury, Giles, E. Capel, and
Conroy. There is always something to be learnt from everybody, if you
touch them on the points they know. Giles told me about the letter to his
sister written by Francis,[5] and which was supposed to have afforded
another proof that he was Junius. Many years ago Francis was in love with
his sister, Mrs. King (at Bath), and one day she received an anonymous
letter, enclosing a copy of verses. The letter said that the writer had found
the verses, and being sure they were meant for her, had sent them to her.
The verses were in Francis’ handwriting, the envelope in a feigned hand.
When the discussion arose about Francis being Junius, Giles said to his
sister one day, ‘If you have kept those verses which Francis wrote to you
many years ago at Bath, it would be curious to examine the handwriting and
see if it corresponds with that of Junius.’ She found the envelope and
verses, and, on comparing them, the writing of the envelope was A MAN
WITHOUT MONEY. identical with that of Junius as published in Woodfall’s book.

[5] [Sir Philip Francis, the reputed author of the ‘Letters of Junius.’ This anecdote has since been
verified with great minuteness by Mr. Twisleton in his researches on the authorship of ‘Junius.’ The
copy of verses and the envelope in a feigned hand are still in existence. I have seen them. The
feigned hand appears to be identical with that of Junius.]

Old Creevey is rather an extraordinary character. I know nothing of the
early part of his history, but I believe he was an attorney or barrister; he
married a widow, who died a few years ago; she had something, he nothing;
he got into Parliament, belonged to the Whigs, displayed a good deal of

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shrewdness and humour, and was for some time very troublesome to the
Tory Government by continually attacking abuses. After some time he lost
his seat, and went to live at Brussels, where he became intimate with the
Duke of Wellington. Then his wife died, upon which event he was thrown
upon the world with about 200ℓ. a year or less, no home, few connections, a
great many acquaintance, a good constitution, and extraordinary spirits. He
possesses nothing but his clothes, no property of any sort; he leads a
vagrant life, visiting a number of people who are delighted to have him, and
sometimes roving about to various places, as fancy happens to direct, and
staying till he has spent what money he has in his pocket. He has no
servant, no home, no creditors; he buys everything as he wants it at the
place he is at; he has no ties upon him, and has his time entirely at his own
disposal and that of his friends. He is certainly a living proof that a man
may be perfectly happy and exceedingly poor, or rather without riches, for
he suffers none of the privations of poverty and enjoys many of the
advantages of wealth. I think he is the only man I know in society who
possesses nothing.
Captain Dickinson’s trial[6] ended last week, with a sentence which
was levelled against Codrington, and which called the charges groundless,
frivolous, and vexatious. It is generally thought that this sentence might
have been spared, though the acquittal was proper; that Codrington behaved
very foolishly, and in ever mentioning the round robin after he had forgiven
it, very inexcusably; but that, on the other hand, the Admiralty had
displayed a spirit of hostility and rancour against him which is very
disgusting, and that Blackwood was sent down to the court-martial for the
express purpose of bullying and thwarting him. I saw him after the
sentence; he seemed annoyed, but said that such a sentence made it
necessary the matter should not stop there, and that it must be taken up in
Parliament. I cannot see what he is to gain by that; he may prove that the
Ministry of that day (which was not the Duke’s) behaved very ill, but that
has nothing to do with the court-martial.
[6] [Captain Dickinson fought the ‘Genoa’ at the battle of Navarino after Captain Bathurst, the
commander of the ship, was killed. A quarrel afterwards took place between him and Sir Edward
Codrington, and Dickinson was tried by court-martial for not making proper use of the springs
ordered by the Admiral to be placed on the anchors, the consequence of which was that her broadside
was not directed against the enemy, but fired into the ‘Albion.’ Captain Dickinson was honourably
acquitted of all the charges, and it was proved that Sir Edward Codrington’s recollection of what had
passed was inaccurate in some particulars.]

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The whole press has risen up in arms against the Duke’s prosecution of
the ‘Morning Journal,’ which appears to me, though many people think he
is right, a great act of weakness and passion. How can such a man suffer by
the attacks of such a paper, and by such attacks, the sublime of the
ridiculous?—‘that he is aiming at the Crown, but we shall take care that he
does not succeed in this.’ The idea of the Duke of Wellington seeking to
make himself King, and his ambition successfully resisted by the editor of a
newspaper, ‘flogs’ any scene in the ‘Rehearsal.’ I saw the Duke yesterday
morning; he was just come from Doncaster, where he told me he had been
very well received. He was with Chesterfield, who was to have had a large
party. Afterwards I rode with him, and he took me to see his house, which is
now excellent. He told me that both the King’s eyes were affected, the left
the most, and that he would have the operation performed when they were
fit for it; he said that the King never evinced any fear upon these occasions,
that he was always perfectly cool, and neither feared operations or their
possible consequences; that he remembered when he had a very painful and
dangerous operation performed some time ago upon his head, that he was
not the least nervous about it, nor at all afraid of dying, for they told him
that he would very likely not recover. I said, ‘Then, after CHATSWORTH. all,
perhaps he who has the reputation of being a coward would prove a very
brave man if circumstances occasioned his showing what he is.’ He said,
‘Very likely;’ that he seemed to have but one fear, that of ridicule: he cannot
bear the society of clever men, for fear of ridicule; he cannot bear to show
himself in public, because he is afraid of the jokes that may be cut on his
person.
In the evening I met Matuscewitz, who is all glorious at the Russian
successes. He, Montrond, and I talked the matter over, and he said that they
should make peace, but of course (I had said, ‘Vous serez modestes, n’est-
ce pas?’) they should profit by circumstances; that the Allied Ministers
would not be permitted to interfere, and they should grant such terms as
they pleased without consulting them. This was a lie,[7] for Bandinell had
told me in the morning that the negotiations were going on in concert with
the Ambassadors of the Allies.
[7] It was not a lie though after all, for I don’t believe the Allied Ministers had any concern in
the matter. (December 5th.)—[C.C.G.]

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November 4th, 1829
Left London the last week in September, and, after visiting at several
country houses, slept at Harborough, and went to Bretby to breakfast; got
there at twelve and found nobody up. In process of time they came down to
breakfast, the party consisting of the Chancellor and Lady Lyndhurst, the
Worcesters, Mrs. Fox, and Williams, the chaplain, and his wife. I saw very
little of the place, which seems pretty, but not large; a very large unfinished
house. I stayed two or three hours, and went on to Chatsworth,[8] where I
arrived just as they were going to dinner, but was not expected, and so there
was no room at the table. The party was immense; 40 people sat down to
dinner every day, and about 150 servants in the steward’s room and
servants’ hall; there were the Lievens, Cowpers, Granvilles, Wharncliffes,
Granthams, Wiltons, Stanleys, Belfasts, Newboroughs, Dawsons,
Matuscewitz, Clanwilliams, G. Anson, H. de Ros, &c. Nothing could be
more agreeable from the gaiety of numbers and the entire liberty which
prevails; all the resources of the house—horses, carriages, keepers, &c.—
are placed at the disposal of the guests, and everybody does what they like
best. In the evening they acted charades or danced, and there was plenty of
whist and écarté high and low. It was in the middle of that party that news
came of the negotiations being begun between the Russians and Turks,[9]
and I received a letter from Robert Grosvenor, which Madame de Lieven
was ready to devour, and she was very angry that I would not let her see the
whole of it. Our Russians were of course triumphant, and the Princess’s
good humour was elevated to rapture by a very pretty compliment which
was paid her in the shape of a charade, admirably got up as a pièce de
circonstance, and which has since made some noise in the world. The word
was Constantinople, which was acted: Constant, Penelope and the suitors;
Inn, a tavern scene; and Opal, the story in ‘Anne of Geierstein.’ The whole
represented the Divan, the arrival of Diebitsch’s Ambassadors, a battle
between the Turks and Russians, the victory of the latter, and ended by
Morpeth as Diebitsch laying a crown of laurel at Madame de Lieven’s feet.
She was enchanted, and of course wrote off an account of it to the Empress.
The whole thing is abused as a bassesse by her enemies, but it was very
amusing, and in the Duke’s house, who is a friend of the Emperor, a not
unbecoming compliment.

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[8] [The hospitality of Chatsworth in the lifetime of William Spencer Cavendish, sixth Duke of
Devonshire, was princely. The Duke of Portland, Mr. Greville’s grandfather, married Dorothy, only
daughter of William, fourth Duke of Devonshire, from whom Mr. Greville derived his second name
of Cavendish. He was therefore second cousin of the sixth Duke and of Lady Granville and Lady
Carlisle.]
[9] [The negotiations for the peace of Adrianople, which terminated the Russo-Turkish war.]

I returned to Newmarket on the 11th of October. At the end of the
week I had a fall from my horse, which confined me to my room for ten
days. The Arbuthnots were at Newmarket, having come from Sudbourne,
where Lord Hertford had brought the Duke and Huskisson together.
Nothing seems to have passed between them beyond the common civilities
of society, but Huskisson has suffered IRISH TRIALS. greatly from a universal
opinion that the meeting was sought by him for the purpose of re-
ingratiating himself with the Duke, and, if possible, getting into office on
any terms. It is a proof of the low estimation in which his character is held
even by those who rate his talents the highest that all his former political
adherents think this of him. With such a reputation his political efficacy
never can be great again. There was a strong report that he was to join the
Government, which is now dying away. The Duke is very fortunate, for his
most formidable opponents always do something to lower their own
characters and render themselves as little formidable to him as possible.
The trials in Ireland are just over, and the Government have been
defeated, which I find they think may be productive of very important
consequences to the peace of the country. The obstinacy of one man, who
held out against the other eleven, in the second batch of conspirators who
were tried, obliged them at length to dismiss the jury, and the prisoners will
be tried at the next assizes; the others were acquitted, though the evidence
against them was the same as that on which Leary, &c., were convicted.
The exertions of O’Connell, who appears to have acted with great ability,
produced this result. The Government say, of course, that he has acted very
ill, but as the Judge, at the conclusion of the trial, said publicly that the
defence had been conducted with perfect regard to the due administration of
the laws, we may conclude that while he availed himself of every
advantage, he did not overstep the legitimate duty of an advocate to his
client. It is, however, agreed on all hands, notwithstanding these excesses,
that the state of the country is improving, and the Emancipation Bill
producing fresh benefits every day.

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November 9th, 1829
Dined to-day with Byng and met Tom Moore, who was very agreeable;
he told us a great deal about his forthcoming ‘Life of Byron.’ He is nervous
about it; he is employed in conjunction with Scott and Mackintosh to write
a history of England for one of the new publications like the Family
Library.[10] Scott is to write Scotland, Mackintosh England, and Moore
Ireland; and they get 1,000ℓ. apiece; but Scott could not compress his share
into one volume, so he is to have 1,500ℓ. The republication of Scott’s works
will produce him an enormous fortune; he has already paid off 30,000ℓ. of
the Constable bankruptcy debt, and he is to pay the remaining 30,000ℓ. very
soon. A new class of readers is produced by the Bell and Lancaster schools,
and this is the cause of the prodigious and extensive sale of cheap
publications. Moore had received a letter from Madame de Guiccioli to-
day; he says she is not handsome. Byron’s exploits, especially at Venice,
seem to have been marvellous. Moore said he wrote with extraordinary
rapidity, but his corrections were frequent and laborious. When he wrote the
address for the opening of Drury Lane Theatre, he corrected it repeatedly.
[10] Dr. Lardner’s ‘Cyclopædia.’ Moore told me that the editor of one of the annuals offered him
600ℓ. to write two articles for his work, but ‘that he loathed the task’ and refused, though the money
would have been very acceptable. The man said he did not care about the merit of the performance,
and only wanted his name; when Moore refused, the editor raked out some old and forgotten lines of
his to Perry, and inserted them with his name.—[C.C.G.]

I saw Miss Fanny Kemble for the first time on Friday, and was
disappointed. She is short, ill made, with large hands and feet, an expressive
countenance, though not handsome, fine eyes, teeth, and hair, not devoid of
grace, and with great energy and spirit, her voice good, though she has a
little of the drawl of her family. She wants the pathos and tenderness of
Miss O’Neill, and she excites no emotion; but she is very young, clever, and
may become a very good, perhaps a fine actress. Mrs. Siddons was not so
good at her age. She fills the house every night.
The King, who was to have gone to Brighton, has given it up, nobody
knows why, but it is supposed that the Marchioness is not well. This
morning the Duke and my brother were occupied for half an hour in
endeavouring to fold a letter to his Majesty in a particular way, which he
has prescribed, for he will have his envelopes made up in some French
fashion. SIR JAMES MACKINTOSH I hear he thinks that he rode Fleur de Lis for the

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cup at Goodwood, which he may as well do as think (which he does) that he
led the heavy dragoons at Salamanca.
O’Connell has been making a most infamous speech at Youghal, and is
moving heaven and earth to begin a fresh agitation about the Union, and to
do all the mischief he can. Francis Leveson is to meet Sheil at dinner to-
morrow for the first time; he did not dare do this without asking leave of
Peel. Peel answered his letter that he ‘rather inclined himself to do anything
to win him, but stating that the Duke would urge the difficulties of their
position, and also the King’s horror of the man,’ &c. The King’s horror is in
consequence of his speech about the Duke of York. I am told Greece is to be
erected into a kingdom, with a boundary line drawn from Volo to Arta, and
that the sovereignty is to be offered to Prince Frederick of Orange, and, if
he refuses it, to Leopold.

November 12th, 1829
At Roehampton at Lord Clifden’s from Tuesday, the 10th, till to-day;
Sir James Mackintosh, Moore, Poodle Byng,[11] and the Master of the Rolls.
It was uncommonly agreeable. I never was in Mackintosh’s society for so
long before, and never was more filled with admiration. His prodigious
memory and the variety and extent of his information remind me of all I
have heard and read of Burke and Johnson; but his amiable, modest, and
unassuming character makes him far more agreeable than they could either
of them (particularly Johnson) have been, while he is probably equally
instructive and amusing. Not a subject could be mentioned of which he did
not treat with equal facility and abundance, from the Council of Trent to
Voltaire’s epistles; every subject, every character, every work, all were
familiar to him, and I do not know a greater treat than to hear him talk.
[11] [Hon. Frederick Byng, formerly of the Foreign Office, universally known at this time as
‘The Poodle,’ probably because he once kept a fine animal of that breed.]

Mackintosh said he was a great reader of novels; had read ‘Old
Mortality’ four times in English and once in French. Ellis said he preferred
Miss Austen’s novels to Scott’s. Talked of the old novelists—Fielding, little
read now, Smollett less; Mackintosh is a great admirer of Swift, and does

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not think his infamous conduct to Vanessa quite made out. Talked of the
articles of our religion, and said that they were in almost exact conformity
with certain doctrines laid down in the Council of Trent. The Jansenists
differ very little from our Church, except as to the doctrine of the Real
Presence. Speaking of India, Mackintosh said that it was very remarkable
that we had lost one great empire and gained another in the same
generation, and that it was still a moot point whether the one really was a
gain or the other a loss. Called America the second Maritime Power.
Franklin wept when he quitted England. When he signed the treaty at Paris,
he retired for a moment and changed his coat. It was remarked, and he said
he had been to put on the coat in which he had been insulted by Lord
Loughborough at the English Council Board. Madame de Staël, he said,
was more agreeable in tête-à-tête than in society; she despised her children,
and said, ‘Ils ne me ressemblent pas.’ He told her she did not do them
justice, particularly her daughter. She said, ‘C’est une lune bien pâle.’ She
took an aversion to Rogers, but when she met him at Bowood, and he told
her anecdotes, she liked him. She had vanquished Brougham, and was very
proud of those conquests.
Moore told several stories which I don’t recollect, but this amused us:
—Some Irish had emigrated to some West Indian colony; the negroes soon
learnt their brogue, and when another shipload of Irish came soon after, the
negroes as they sailed in said, ‘Ah, Paddy, how are you?’ ‘Oh, Christ!’ said
one of them, ‘what, y’re become black already!’
Moore, without displaying the astonishing knowledge of Mackintosh,
was very full of information, gaiety, and humour. Two more delightful days
I never passed. I could not help reflecting what an extraordinary thing
success is in this world, when a man so gifted as Mackintosh has failed
completely in public life, never having attained honours, reputation, or
wealth, while so many ordinary men have reaped an SIR PHILIP CRAMPTON’S STORY
abundant harvest of all. What a consolation this affords to mediocrity! None
can approach Mackintosh without admiring his extraordinary powers, and
at the same time wondering why they have not produced greater effects in
the world either of literature or politics. His virtues are obstacles to his
success; he has not the art of pushing or of making himself feared; he is too
doucereux and complimentary, and from some accident or defect in the
composition of his character, and in the course of events which have

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influenced his circumstances, he has always been civilly neglected. Both
Mackintosh and Moore told a great many anecdotes, but one morning at
breakfast the latter related a story which struck us all. Mackintosh said it
was enough to furnish materials for a novel, but that the simple narrative
was so striking it ought to be written down without exaggeration or
addition. I afterwards wrote it down as nearly as I could recollect it. It was
Crampton, the Surgeon-General, who told it to Moore, and Crampton
loquitur.
‘Some years ago I was present at a duel that was fought between a
young man of the name of MacLoughlin and another Irishman. MacL. was
desperately wounded; his second ran up to him, and thought to console him
with the intelligence that his antagonist had also fallen. He only replied, “I
am sorry for it if he is suffering as much as I do now.” I was struck by the
good feeling evinced in this reply, and took an interest in the fate of the
young man. He recovered, and a few years after my interest was again
powerfully excited by hearing that he had been arrested on suspicion of
having murdered his father-in-law, his mother’s second husband. He was
tried and found guilty on the evidence of a soldier who happened to be
passing in the middle of the night near the house in which the murder was
committed. Attracted by a light which gleamed through the lower part of the
window, he approached it, and through an opening between the shutter and
the frame was able to look into the room. There he saw a man in the act of
lifting a dead body from the floor, while his hands and clothes were stained
all over with blood. He hastened to give information of what he had seen;
MacLoughlin and his mother were apprehended, and the former, having
been identified by the soldier, was found guilty. There was no evidence
against the woman, and she was consequently acquitted. MacLoughlin
conducted himself throughout the trial with determined calmness, and never
could be induced to acknowledge his guilt. The morning of his execution he
had an interview with his mother; none knew what passed between them,
but when they parted he was heard to say, “Mother, may God forgive you!”
The fate of this young man made a deep impression on me, till time and
passing events effaced the occurrence from my mind. It was several years
afterwards that I one day received a letter from a lady (a very old and
intimate acquaintance) entreating that I would immediately hasten down to
the assistance of a Roman Catholic priest who was lying dangerously ill at

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her house, and the symptoms of whose malady she described. Her
description left me doubtful whether the mind or the body of the patient was
affected. Being unable to leave Dublin, I wrote to say that if the disease was
bodily the case was hopeless, but if mental I should recommend certain
lenitives, for which I added a prescription. The priest died, and shortly after
his death the lady confided to me an extraordinary and dreadful story. He
had been her confessor and intimate friend, and in moments of agony and
doubt produced by horrible recollections he had revealed to her a secret
which had been imparted to him in confession. He had received the dying
confession of MacLoughlin, who, as it turned out, was not the murderer of
his father-in-law, but had died to save the life and honour of his mother, by
whom the crime had been really committed. She was a woman of violent
passions; she had quarrelled with her husband in the middle of the night,
and after throwing him from the bed had despatched him by repeated blows.
When she found he was dead she was seized with terror, and hastening to
the apartment of her son, called him to witness the shocking spectacle and
to save her from the consequences of her crime. It was at this moment,
when he was lifting the body and preparing to TOM MOORE remove the bloody
evidence of his mother’s guilt, that the soldier passed by and saw him in the
performance of his dreadful task. To the priest alone he acknowledged the
truth, but his last words to his mother were now explained.’

November 20th, 1829
Roehampton. Only Moore and myself; Washington Irving and
Maclane, the American Minister, come to-morrow. Moore spoke in the
highest terms of Luttrell, of his wit and information, and of his writings, to
which he does not think the world does justice, particularly the ‘Advice to
Julia,’ but he says Luttrell is too fearful of giving offence. Moore was very
agreeable, told a story of Sir —— St. George in Ireland. He was to attend a
meeting at which a great many Catholics were to be present (I forget
where), got drunk and lost his hat, when he went into the room where they
were assembled and said, ‘Damnation to you all; I came to emancipate you,
and you’ve stole my hat.’ In the evening Moore sang, but the pianoforte was
horrid, and he was not in good voice; still his singing ‘va dritto al cuore,’
for it produces an exceeding sadness, and brings to mind a thousand

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melancholy recollections, and generates many melancholy anticipations. He
told me as we came along that with him it required no thought to write, but
that there was no end to it; so many fancies on every subject crowded on his
brain; that he often read what he had written as if it had been the
composition of another, and was amused; that it was the greatest pleasure to
him to compose those light and trifling pieces, humorous and satirical,
which had been so often successful. He holds Voltaire to have been the most
extraordinary genius that ever lived, on account of his universality and
fertility; talked of Scott and his wonderful labour and power of
composition, as well as the extent to which he has carried the art of book-
making; besides writing this history of Scotland for Dr. Lardner’s
‘Encyclopædia,’ he is working at the prefaces for the republication of the
Waverley Novels, the ‘Tales of a Grandfather,’ and has still found time to
review Tytler, which he has done out of the scraps and chips of his other
works. A little while ago he had to correct some of the proofs of the history
of Scotland, and, being dissatisfied with what was done, he nearly wrote it
over again, and sent it up to the editor. Some time after finding another
copy of the proofs, he forgot that he had corrected them before, and he
rewrote these also and sent them up, and the editor is at this moment
engaged in selecting from the two corrected copies the best parts of each.
Yesterday I met the Chancellor at dinner at the Master of the Rolls’,
when he told me about the King and Denman.[12] The King would not have
the Recorder’s report last week, because the Recorder was too ill to attend,
and he was resolved not to see Denman. The Duke went to him, when he
threw himself into a terrible tantrum, and was so violent and irritable that
they were obliged to let him have his own way for fear he should be ill,
which they thought he would otherwise certainly be. He is rather the more
furious with Denman from having been forced to consent to his having the
silk gown, and he said at that time that he should never set his foot in any
house of his; so that business is at a standstill, and the unfortunate wretches
under sentence of death are suffered to linger on, because he does not
choose to do his duty and admit to his presence an officer to whom he has
taken an aversion. As the Chancellor said to me, ‘the fact is, he is mad.’ The
fact is that he is a spoiled, selfish, odious beast, and has no idea of doing
anything but what is agreeable to himself, or of there being any duties
attached to the office he holds. The expenses of the Civil List exceed the

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allowance in every branch, every quarter; but nobody can guess how the
money is spent, for the King makes no show and never has anybody there.
My belief is that —— and —— —— plunder him, or rather the country,
between them, in certain stipulated proportions. Among other expenses his
tailor’s bill is said to be 4,000ℓ. or 5,000ℓ. a year. He is now employed in
devising a new dress for the Guards.
[12] [Thomas Denman, afterwards Lord Denman and Lord Chief Justice of England, was at this
time Common Serjeant of the City of London. George IV. hated him for the part he had taken on the
Queen’s trial, and did all he could to prevent his having a silk gown. Vide supra, p. 156, January
16th, 1829.]

November 21st, 1829
STRAWBERRY HILLMaclane, the American Minister, could not come, but
Irving did. He is lively and unassuming, rather vulgar, very good-
humoured. We went to Strawberry Hill to-day—Moore, Ellis, Lady
Georgiana, and I. Ellis is an excellent cicerone; everything is in the state in
which old Horace Walpole left it, and just as his catalogue and description
describe it. He says in that work that he makes that catalogue to provide
against the dispersion of his collections, and he tied up everything as strictly
as possible. Moore sang in the evening and was very agreeable the whole
day. He said that Byron thought that Crabbe and Coleridge had the most
genius and feeling of any living poet. Nobody reads Crabbe now. How
dangerous it is to be a story-teller, however agreeable the manner or
amusing the budget, for Moore to-day told a story which he told here last
week! However, they all laughed just the same, except me, and I moralised
upon it thus. Clifden is a very odd man, shrewd and well informed, and
somewhat sarcastic, but very gay and good-humoured, fond of society and
the ‘Times’ newspaper, a great enemy to the Church, and chuckles over its
alarms and its dangers, but I was amused with a comical contradiction.
Somebody told a story about an erratum in an Irish paper, which said that
such a one had abjured the errors of the Romish Church and embraced those
of the Protestant, at which he was greatly diverted, and said, ‘That is just
what I should have said myself;’ and to-day after dinner, all of a sudden, he
said grace (he says grace on Sunday only).

Page 258

Moore gave an account this morning of his being examined in Trinity
College, Dublin, when a boy, during the rebellion. Many of the youths
(himself, and he says he is pretty sure Croker, among the number) had taken
the oath of the United Irishmen[13] (Emmett[14] and some others who were
in the College had absconded). The Chancellor (Lord Clare) came to the
College, erected his tribunal, and examined all the students upon oath. He
asked first if they had belonged to any society of United Irish, and, if the
answer was in the affirmative, he asked whom they had ever seen there and
what had passed. Contumacy was punishable by expulsion and exclusion
from every profession. At the end of the first day’s examination Moore went
home to his parents, and told them he could not take an oath which might
oblige him to criminate others (as he should be forced to answer any
question they might choose to put), and though they were poor, and had
conceived great hopes of him, they encouraged him in this resolution. The
next day he was called forth, when he refused to be sworn, stating his
reasons why. The Chancellor said he did not come there to dispute with
him, but added that they should only ask him general questions, on which
he took the oath, but reserved to himself the power of declining to answer
particular questions. They only asked him such questions as he could
conscientiously answer (they had got all the information they wanted, and
were beginning to relax), but when they had done with him Lord Clare
asked him why he had demurred to answer. He said he was afraid he might
be called on to criminate others, and that he had never taken an oath before,
and naturally felt some reluctance and dread on such an occasion.
[13] He did not take the oath till after this examination.
[14] He had lived in intimacy with Emmett.

Moore told a story of an Irishman who saw from the pit a friend of his
acting Othello, and he called out, ‘Larry, Larry, Larry, there’s the least taste
in life of your linen hanging out!’ One day in America near the falls of
Niagara Moore saw this scene:—An Indian whose boat was moored to the
shore was making love to the wife of another Indian; the husband came
upon them unawares; he jumped into the boat, when the other cut the cord,
and in an instant it was carried into the middle of the stream, and before he
could seize his paddle was already within the rapids. He exerted all his
force to extricate himself from the peril, but finding that his efforts were
vain, and his canoe was drawn with increasing rapidity towards the Falls, he

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threw away his paddle, drank off at a draught the contents of a bottle of
brandy, tossed the empty bottle into the air, then quietly folded his arms,
extended himself in the boat, and LORD GLENGALL’S COMEDY awaited with perfect
calmness his inevitable fate. In a few moments he was whirled down the
Falls and disappeared for ever.
Washington Irving wants sprightliness and more refined manners. He
was in Spain four years, at Madrid, Seville, and Grenada. While at the latter
place he was lodged in the Alhambra, which is excellently preserved and
very beautiful; he gives a deplorable description of the ignorance and
backward state of the Spaniards. When he returned to France he was utterly
uninformed of what had been passing in Europe while he was in Spain, and
he says that he now constantly hears events alluded to of which he knows
nothing.

December 1st, 1829
After I left Roehampton last week came to town and dined with Byng,
Moore, Irving, Sir T. Lawrence, and Vesey Fitzgerald; very agreeable. No
news but the failure of the Spanish expedition against Mexico, which
capitulated, and the soldiers promised never to bear arms against Mexico
again. On Friday went to see Lord Glengall’s comedy, with a prologue by F.
Mills and an epilogue by Alvanley.[15] It succeeded, though the first two
acts went off heavily; not much novelty in it, but the characters well drawn
and some of the situations very good: it amused me very well, and was
exceedingly well acted. Glengall came to me afterwards to get criticisms on
his play. I told him some of the faults, and he was not in the Sir Fretful line,
but took it all very thankfully. At Roehampton on Sunday; Byng, Sir Robert
Wilson, Sharpe,[16] and Luttrell. There is a joke of Luttrell’s about Sharpe.
He was a wholesale hatter formerly; having a dingy complexion, somebody
said he had transferred the colour of his hats to his face, when Luttrell said
that ‘it was darkness which might be felt.’ Wilson has written to the Sultan a
letter full of advice, and he says the Turks will be more powerful than ever.
Wilson is always full of opinions and facts; the former are wild and
extravagant, the latter generally false.
[15] [A comedy by the Earl of Glengall, entitled ‘The Follies of Fashion.’]

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[16] [Richard Sharpe, Esq., well known by the sobriquet of ‘Conversation Sharpe.’]

No Council yet; the King is employed in altering the uniforms of the
Guards, and has pattern coats with various collars submitted to him every
day. The Duke of Cumberland assists him, and this is his principal
occupation; he sees much more of his tailor than he does of his Minister.
The Duke of Cumberland’s boy, who is at Kew, diverts himself with making
the guard turn out several times in the course of the day to salute him.

December 3rd, 1829
Came from Roehampton. Lady Pembroke and her daughter, Luttrell
and I, and the Lievens, dined there one day. Lady Pembroke was Countess
Woronzow; Lord Pembroke pleaded poverty all his life, and died leaving
each of his five daughters 20,000ℓ., and his wife 200,000ℓ. to do what she
liked with. Old Woronzow was Ambassador here many years, has lived here
ever since, and never learnt a word of English. His son Michel is one of the
most distinguished officers in the Russian army, and now Governor of
Odessa and the province of which that city is the capital.
I went to see Glengall’s play again, which was much better acted than
the first time, and, having been curtailed, went off very well. Henry de Ros,
Glengall, and I went together. I was very much amused (but did not venture
to show it) at a point in one of the scenes between Lureall and Sir S. Foster:
the latter said, ‘Let me tell you, sir, that a country gentleman residing on his
estate is as valuable a member of society as a man of fashion in London
who lives by plundering those who have more money and less wit than
himself;’ when De Ros turned to Glengall and said, ‘Richard, there appears
to me to be a great deal of twaddle in this play; besides, you throw over the
good cause.’

December 5th, 1829
This morning the Duke of Wellington sent for me about the Council on
Monday, and after settling that matter he began talking about the King’s
conduct with reference to the Recorder’s report. I told him it was thought

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very extraordinary. He said, ‘You have no idea what a scene I had with him;
there never was anything like it. THE RECORDER’S REPORT I never saw him so
violent.’ He then rang the bell, when Drummond (his secretary) appeared,
and the Duke desired him to bring the correspondence with the King about
the Recorder, which was done. He then said, ‘I came to town on the
Monday for the Council and report, which was to have been on Tuesday,
and which he had himself settled, without consulting me; in the afternoon
Phillips came to me and said that the Recorder could not attend, and that
they did not know if his Majesty would receive Denman. I wrote to the
King directly this letter.’ He then read the letter, which was to this effect:
that he informed the King that the Recorder was ill, and therefore the
Common Serjeant, Mr. Denman, would have the honour of making the
report to his Majesty; that he thought it right to apprise him of this, and if he
had any objection to receive Mr. Denman, it would be better to put off the
Council, as no other person could now lay the report before him. ‘To this
the King wrote an answer, beginning “My dear Duke,” not as usual,’ the
Duke said, ‘ “My dear Friend,” that the state of his eyes would not allow
him to write by candle-light, and he was therefore obliged to make use of an
amanuensis. The letter was written by Watson, and signed by the King,
“Your sincere Friend, G. R.” It was to the effect that he was quite surprised
the Duke should have made him such a proposal; that he had been grossly
insulted by Denman, and would never admit him to his presence; that it had
been settled the Deputy-Recorder, Arabin, in the absence of the Recorder,
should make the report, and that he had already done so; that he was
surprised, knowing as the Duke must do the firmness of his character, that
he should think him capable of yielding on this subject; that he never would
do so, and desired the Council might take place, and the report be made by
Arabin.’ His letter was much longer, but this was the pith of it. On the
receipt of this the Duke held a consultation with Peel and the Chancellor,
when they determined to put off the Council, which was done, and the Duke
wrote to the King, as nearly as I can recollect, as follows. This was an
admirable letter—business-like, firm, and respectful:—‘That upon the
receipt of his Majesty’s letter he had thought it his duty to consult the
Chancellor, and that they had come to the resolution of postponing the
Council and report; that the making of this report was the privilege of the
City of London, and that the Recorder in the execution of this duty, being
unable to attend, had placed it in the hands of the Common Serjeant, whose

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duty it then became to present it; that it was now in his hands, and could not
be withdrawn without his consent; that the only occasion on which it had
been presented by Mr. Serjeant Arabin had been when the Common
Serjeant was on the circuit; that as his Majesty objected to admit Mr.
Denman to his presence, they had thought it best to put off the Council, as if
Mr. Arabin was summoned he could have no report to present, and there
would probably arise some discussion between the Common Serjeant and
him, which would be a proceeding such as ought not to take place in his
Majesty’s palace, and that he would wait upon his Majesty the next morning
and take his commands upon the subject.’ The next day, he continued, he
went to Windsor, where he had a grand scene with his Majesty. ‘I am sure,’
said the Duke, ‘that nobody can manage him but me.’ He repeated all he
had said in his letter, and a great deal more; represented to him that having
given his sanction to the official appointment of Denman since the Queen’s
trial, he could not refuse to receive him in the execution of his duty without
alleging legal objections for so doing; to which the King replied that Lord
Liverpool had behaved very ill to him, and had made him do this; and then
he became very violent, and cursed and swore, and said he never would see
him. The Duke said that he might put off the report; that there were three
men who must be hanged, and it did not signify one farthing whether they
were kept in prison a little longer or shorter time (he forgets that there are
others lying under sentence of death, probably several), and that he had
better put it off than have the Common Serjeant come down to a scene in
his palace. After letting him run on in his usual way, and exhaust his
violence, THE CIVIL LIST he left him, and the report stands over once more; but
the Duke told me that it could not stand over after this, and if the Recorder
is not well enough when the time arrives for the next report, his Majesty
must receive Denman whether he will or no, and that he shall insist upon it.
He told me the whole history in great detail mixed with pretty severe
strictures on the King. I have put down all I could carry away. I have not
such a memory (or such an invention) as Bourrienne.
The Duke then told me that he had made strong remonstrances about
the excess of expenditure on the Civil List; that in the Lord Steward’s
department there had been an excess of 7,000ℓ., in that of the Master of the
Horse of 5,000ℓ., and that of the Master of the Robes (the tailor’s bill) of
10,000ℓ. in the last half-year;[17] that he had stated that unless they could

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save the difference in the next half-year, or pay it out of the Privy Purse, he
must go to Parliament, which would bring the whole of the expenses of the
Civil List under discussion. He said it was very extraordinary, that the
King’s expenses appeared to be nothing; his Majesty had not more tables
than he (the Duke) had.
[17] I am not sure that I am correct in the sums, but very nearly so.—[C.C.G.]

I asked him about Brummell and his Consulship. He said Aberdeen
hesitated; that he had offered to take all the responsibility on himself; that
he had in Dudley’s time proposed it to him (Dudley), who had objected, and
at last owned he was afraid the King might not like it, on which he had
spoken to the King, who had made objections, abusing Brummell—said he
was a damned fellow and had behaved very ill to him (the old story, always
himself—moi, moi, moi)—but after having let him run out his tether of
abuse, he had at last extracted his consent; nevertheless Dudley did not give
him the appointment. The Duke said he had no acquaintance with
Brummell.

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CHAPTER VII.
Chapter of the Bath — The Duc de Dino arrested — A Ball to
the Divan — English Policy in Greece — Sir Thomas Lawrence
— Gallatin — Court of King’s Bench — Accident to the Grand
Duke Constantine — Osterley — Young Sidney Herbert —
Duke of Wellington in Office — Stapleton’s ‘Life of Canning’
— Death of Sir Thomas Lawrence — Leopold and the Throne
of Greece — Canning’s Answers to Lord Grey — Distressed
State of the Country — Canning’s Greatness and his Failings —
Death of Tierney — Sir Martin Shee President — The Duke of
Wellington’s Views and Conduct — The Coming Session —
Moore’s ‘Life of Byron’ — Character of Byron — Opening of
Parliament — The Fire King — The Duke of Wellington’s
Speaking — The English Opera House burnt down — Lord
Thurlow on Kenyon and Buller — Old Rothschild —
Lansdowne House — Earl Stanhope — John Murray —
Departure for Italy.

December 7th, 1829
At Windsor for a Council; the Duke was there, and Lord Aberdeen,
Murray, Lord Rosslyn, the Chancellor, and Herries. There was a chapter of
the Bath, when the Duke of Clarence was installed Grand Master, Stratford
Canning and Robert Gordon Grand Crosses. The King looked very well, but
was very blind. The Council was by candle-light, but he could not see to
read the list, and begged me to read it for him. However, I was so good a
courtier that I held the candle in such a way as to enable him to read it
himself. He saw the Duke for a short time, and the Chancellor for a long
time. I asked the latter if the King had been Denmanising, and he said, ‘Oh,
yes—“I said when I consented to that fellow’s having the silk gown that I

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would never admit him,” &c.’ I was amused with old Conyngham, who told
me his wife had been in danger, ‘so they tell me,’ talking of her as if she
were somebody else’s wife. The Duke went from the Council to Stowe; we
all returned to town.

December 9th, 1829
Dined with Prince Lieven; a great THE DUC DE DINO ARRESTED dinner—
Laval,[1] Granvilles, Aberdeen, Montrond, &c. The Duc de Dino, who came
here to amuse himself, has been arrested, and Montrond and Vaudreuil
begged Laval to put him on his list of attachés at the Foreign Office, which
would release him from the sponging-house. He was afraid and made
difficulties; they were excessively provoked, but at last induced him to
speak to Lord Aberdeen about it, which he said he would do after dinner. In
the meantime Montrond got me to tell the story to Aberdeen, which I did,
and got him to encourage Laval to do the business. He then told Laval that I
had aplani the matter, at which the Ambassador was rather affronted, but I
suppose the thing will be done and Dino will get out. The Duc de Dino is
Talleyrand’s nephew, and his son has married Mademoiselle de
Montmorency, a relation of the Duc de Laval.
[1] [The Duc de Laval had succeeded Prince Polignac as French Ambassador in London.]

December 10th, 1829
Last night Miss Kemble acted Belvidera for the first time, and with
great success.

December 18th, 1829
At Roehampton last Saturday to Monday; Granvilles, Byng, Lord
Ashley, and I. Dino was extricated from prison by Laval’s paying the
money, which he did very handsomely; he thought it wrong to have him in

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prison and wrong to attach him fictitiously to his Embassy, so he paid the
debt, and Dino is gone back to France.
Despatches were received from Gordon yesterday giving an account of
a ball he had given to the Divan; the Turks came, and the Reis-Effendi
waltzed with a Mrs. Moore. After supper they drank King George IV.’s
health in bumpers of champagne. This story was told to Lord Sidmouth as a
good joke; but he said with a face of dismay, ‘Good God, is it possible? To
what extent will these innovations be carried?’

December 19th, 1829
There is a review in the ‘Foreign Quarterly’ (the last number) on
Greece, which is a remarkably able critique of the conduct of our
Government in the affairs of that State. The writer, whoever he may be, has
been amply supplied with documents and information, probably from Paris.
Nothing can be more just than his remarks on our miserable policy, or more
severe. I showed it to Lord Granville, who told me that it was generally
correct, though containing some errors; for instance, that it was not true that
we had engaged to afford the Greeks pecuniary aid, which we never did
promise, but that he had been himself the person to negotiate with M. de la
Ferronays, then Minister for Foreign Affairs at Paris, for the more limited
boundary, and to dissuade the French from sending their expedition to the
Morea; that there had been a violent contest in the English Cabinet on that
subject, Huskisson and Dudley being in favour of the French expedition,
and the Duke and the rest against it, but that the moment Huskisson and his
party resigned the Duke gave way and agreed to the measure. This affords
another example of his extraordinary mode of proceeding, that of opposing
the views and plans of others violently, and when he finds opposition
fruitless, or likely to become so, turning short round and adopting them as
his own, and taking all the credit he can get for doing so. He did so in the
case of the recognition of the South American colonies, of the Test and
Corporation Acts, the Catholic question, and in this instance. Then his
conduct on the Corn Bill is only the converse of the same proposition—
begins by being a party to it and then procures its rejection. Greece and
Portugal, if well handled, would afford two great cases against the Duke’s

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foreign policy, and they serve as admirable commentaries on each other.
The raising the siege of Previsa, and the respect paid to Miguel’s blockade,
and compulsion exercised on the Terceira people are enough to prove
everything.
Ashley told me a curious thing about Sir Thomas Lawrence the other
day. His father kept the inn at Devizes,[2] and when Lord Shaftesbury’s
father and mother were once at the inn with Lord Shaftesbury, then a boy,
the innkeeper GALLATIN came into the room and said he had a son with a
genius for drawing, and, if they would allow him, his little boy should draw
their little boy’s picture; on which the little Lawrence was sent for, who
produced his chalk and paper, and made a portrait of the young Lord.
[2] [Sir Thomas Lawrence’s father at one time kept the ‘Black Bear’ at Devizes. In 1775 Lord
and Lady Kenyon had the young prodigy (as he was called) introduced to them there. Lawrence was
then only six years old.]

December 21st, 1829
At Roehampton from Saturday; Maclane, the American Minister,
Washington Irving, Melbourne, Byng, and on Sunday the Lievens to dinner.
Maclane a sensible man, with very good American manners, which are not
refined. Even Irving, who has been so many years here, has a bluntness
which is very foreign to the tone of good society. Maclane gave me a
curious account of Gallatin. He was born at Geneva, and went over to
America early in life, possessed of nothing; there he set up a little huxtering
shop—in I forget what State—and fell in love with one of the daughters of a
poor woman at whose house he lodged, but he was so destitute that the
mother refused him. In this abject condition accident introduced him to the
celebrated Patrick Henry, who advised him to abandon trade, and go into
the neighbouring State and try to advance himself by his talents. He
followed the advice, and soon began to make himself known.

December 22nd, 1829

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Dined with Byng yesterday and met Moore, Fitzgerald, and Luttrell.
Luttrell is a great lover of conundrums, which taste he acquired from
Beresford, the author of the ‘Miseries of Human Life,’ who has invented
some very curious but elaborate conundrums. They are not worth repeating.
Moore told a story of an Irishman at the play calling out, ‘Now, boys, a clap
for Wellington!’ which being complied with, ‘And now silence for the rest
of the family!’ He complained that all the humour which used to break out
in an Irish audience is extinct.
Fitzgerald told me that the King had been annoying them as much as
he could, that he took pleasure in making his Government weak, that the
money matter (which the Duke told me of before) had been settled by
‘contrivances,’ or that they must have gone to Parliament for the amount;
that he has just ordered plate to the amount of 25,000ℓ. Fitzgerald is so ill
that he can scarcely carry on the business of his office, and yet he does not
like to give it up, for fear of embarrassing the Government; he complained
that the other offices had thrown much of their business on the Board of
Trade, a custom which had grown up in Huskisson’s time, who was the
most competent man, and who took it all. Probably Huskisson was not
sorry, by making himself very useful, to make himself nearly indispensable,
and thought that he was so; and so he was de jure, but the Duke would not
let him be so de facto.

December 23rd, 1829
Went to the Court of King’s Bench this morning to prove that the Duke
of Wellington is a Privy Councillor, on the trial of the action which the
Duke brought against the ‘Morning Journal.’ The action brought by the
Chancellor had been tried the day before. Scarlett was feeble; Alexander
again defended himself in a very poor speech; the jury retired for three
hours, and I thought would have said ‘Not guilty;’ but they brought in a
verdict which is tantamount to a defeat of the prosecution on this charge,
and amply proves the folly of having instituted it at all. I did not hear the
second trial, on which they gave a verdict of guilty, after consulting for
about half an hour. The jury in each case consisted of eight special jurors
and four talesmen. Afterwards there was a crim. con. case, which I did not

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stay out, but which was amusing enough from the translations of the
counsel, the Judge, the witnesses, and the interpreters, for some of the
witnesses were French. Lord Tenterden has a comical way of muttering to
himself half aloud as the counsel are speaking, either answering or
commenting on what they say. Scarlett was saying (in this last case) that he
could not prove the fact, but he could prove that the defendant passed the
night in the lady’s room, and the jury might judge what he did, when
Tenterden muttered, ‘If he did nothing, what was he there for?’
The prosecution finished with the trial of Bell (of the ‘Atlas’), who
made a very good speech (it was about Lord and Lady Lyndhurst), and the
jury found him guilty of PRESS PROSECUTIONS publishing only, which I take to
be an acquittal; the point, however, will not be tried probably, for it is not
likely that he will be brought up for judgment. He will be contented to get
off, and they will not like to stir such a question. The result of the trials
proves the egregious folly of having ever brought them on, especially the
Duke’s. One of the verdicts is, as far as he is concerned, an acquittal; the
author showed himself to be so contemptible that he had better have been
treated with indifference. He has been converted into a sort of martyr, and
whatever may have been thought of the vulgar scurrility of the language,
ruin and imprisonment will appear to most people too severe a punishment
for the offence. Then the whole press have united upon this occasion, and in
some very powerful articles have spread to every corner of the country the
strongest condemnation of the whole proceeding. The Government, or
rather the Duke, is likely to become unpopular, and no good end will have
been answered. I do not believe that these prosecutions originate in a desire
to curb the press, but merely in that of punishing a writer who had so
violently abused him; not, however, that he would be sorry to adopt any
measure which should tend to fetter free discussion, and subject the press to
future punishment. But this would be a fearful war to wage, and I do not
think he is rash enough to undertake such a crusade.

December 27th, 1829
At Panshanger since the 24th; Lievens, J. Russell, Montrond, M. de la
Rochefoucauld, F. Lamb. On Christmas Day the Princess [Lieven] got up a

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little fête such as is customary all over Germany. Three trees in great pots
were put upon a long table covered with pink linen; each tree was
illuminated with three circular tiers of coloured wax candles—blue, green,
red, and white. Before each tree was displayed a quantity of toys, gloves,
pocket-handkerchiefs, workboxes, books, and various articles—presents
made to the owner of the tree. It was very pretty. Here it was only for the
children; in Germany the custom extends to persons of all ages. The
Princess told us to-day about the Emperor of Russia’s relapse and the cause
of it. He had had a cold which he had neglected, but at length the physicians
had given him some medicine to produce perspiration, and he was in bed in
that state, the Empress sitting by him reading to him, when on a sudden a
dreadful noise was heard in the next (the children’s) room, followed by loud
shrieks. The Empress rushed into the room, and the Emperor jumped out of
bed in his shirt and followed her. There the children, the governess, and the
nurses were screaming out that Constantine (the second boy, of two years
old) was destroyed; a huge vase of porphyry had been thrown down and had
fallen over the child, who was not to be seen. So great was the weight and
size of the vase that it was several minutes before it could be raised, though
assistance was immediately fetched, and all that time the Emperor and
Empress stood there in ignorance of the fate of the child, and expecting to
see the removal of the vase discover his mangled body, when to their
delight it was found that the vase had fallen exactly over him, without doing
him the least injury, but the agitation and the cold brought on a violent
fever, which for some time put the Emperor in great danger. The Princess
said she was surprised that it did not kill the Empress, for she is the most
nervous woman in the world, ever since the conspiracy at the time of his
accession, when her nerves were ébranlés by all she went through. That
scene (of the revolt of the Guards) took place under the window of the
Palace. The whole Imperial Family was assembled there and saw it all, the
Emperor being in the middle of men by whom they expected him to be
assassinated every moment. During all that time—many hours—the young
Empress never spoke, but stood ‘pâle comme une statue,’ and when at
length it was all over, and the Emperor returned, she threw herself on her
knees and began to pray.

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December 29th, 1829
At Osterley;[3] Lady Euston, Mrs. Sheridan and her son; a very fine
house, which is thrown away, as they hardly ever live there. They spent
200,000ℓ. in building Middleton, which is the worst place in England, and
now they WELLINGTON AS A MINISTER regret it, but Lord Jersey hates Osterley and
likes Middleton. This place belonged to Sir Thomas Gresham, but the
present house is modern. It was here that Sir Thomas Gresham feasted
Queen Elizabeth, and pulled down a wall in the night which she had found
fault with, so that in the morning she found it was gone.
[3] [Lord Jersey’s seat near Hanwell, Middlesex.]

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1830.

January 2nd, 1830
At Roehampton; William Howard, Baring Wall, and Lady Pembroke’s
son;[4] the best sort of youth I have seen for a long while, and he will have
12,000ℓ. a year, besides what his mother may leave him. Vesey Fitzgerald is
so ill that it is doubtful if he will recover, and, at all events, almost
impossible that he should remain in office. It will be very difficult for the
Duke to fill his place. There is not a man in office now who is fit for it, and
where is he to look for anyone else? Yet I think almost anybody would take
it; for although the late prosecutions are blamed, and the foreign policy is
thought by most people to have been very miserable, there is an extensive
disposition to support the Duke and to keep him at the head of affairs.
Huskisson is the man whose knowledge and capacity would be of the
greatest service just now, but the Duke will not like to apply to him in a
moment of distress, because he would probably take advantage of that
distress to make better terms for himself; at the same time, I should not be
surprised if the Duke were to invite him to return to the Cabinet, and that he
accepted the Chancellorship of the Exchequer or one of the Secretaryships
without any conditions. Vesey will be a great loss, for he is clever and ready
in debate, and by great diligence and application, and the powerful
assistance of Hume and Stephen, he has made considerable progress in the
science of trade and commerce.
[4] [Sidney Herbert, afterwards Lord Herbert of Lea, whose life and character did not belie the
promise of his youth.]

January 5th, 1830
There are many speculations about Vesey’s successor; some think Lord
Chandos or Herries; I think Frankland Lewis, but that Lord Chandos will
have some place before long; the Duke has a great hankering after that set.
In the meantime all accounts concur in admitting the great and increasing

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distress; and, as such a state of things not unnaturally produces a good deal
of ill-humour, the Duke is abused for gadding about visiting and shooting
while the country is in difficulty, and it is argued that he must be very
unfeeling and indifferent to it all to amuse himself in this manner. Nothing
can be more unjust than such accusations as these. The sort of relaxation he
takes is necessary to his health, and, all things considered, it is not
extraordinary he should prefer other people’s houses to his own, particularly
when everyone invites him in the most pressing manner. But these visits by
no means interrupt the course of his official business; all his letters are
regularly sent to him, and as regularly answered every day, and it is his
habit to open his letters himself, to read them all, and to answer all. He
never receives any letter, whatever may be the subject or the situation of the
writer, that he does not answer, and that immediately, to a degree which is
not only unprecedented, but quite unnecessary, and I think unwise, although
certainly it contributes to his popularity. It is another proof of that simplicity
of character and the absence of all arrogance which are so remarkable in
him, especially as he has long been used to command and to implicit
obedience, and the whole tenor of his conduct since he has been in office
shows that he is covetous of power and authority, and will not endure
anybody who will not be subservient to him; still in his manner and bearing
there is nothing but openness, frankness, civility, and good-humour. As to
his supposed indifference to the public distress, I firmly believe that his
mind is incessantly occupied with projects for its relief, and that when
unwarped by particular prejudices, partialities, and antipathies, which have
had a stronger and more frequent influence over him than befits so great a
man, he is animated with a sincere desire to reform abuses of any kind, and
is not diverted from his purpose by any personal considerations or collateral
objects. The King is preparing for STAPLETON’S ‘MEMOIRS OF CANNING’ a new battle
with him (stimulated, I presume, by the Duke of Cumberland) about the
appointment of sheriffs. He has taken it into his head that he will not
appoint any Roman Catholic sheriff; and as several have been named, and
these generally first on the list, according to the usual practice, they must be
chosen. The King will be obliged to give way, but it is an additional proof
of his bad disposition and his pleasure in thwarting his Ministers on every
possible occasion.

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January 7th, 1830
Stapleton’s ‘Memoirs of Canning’ are coming out directly, but he is
prevented from making use of all the documents he, or rather Lady
Canning, has. She has had an angry correspondence with the Foreign
Office. Every Minister takes away a précis of all he has done while in
office, but Canning’s précis was not finished when he died. She wrote and
demanded that what was incomplete should be furnished to her, but claimed
it as a right, and said it was for the purpose of vindicating him. Lord
Aberdeen declined giving it, and I think very properly. The reason he
assigned was that a Minister who was furnished with such documents for
his own justification was bound by his oath of secresy not to reveal the
contents, but the secrets of the State could not be imparted to any
irresponsible person, who was under no such restraint.
Vesey Fitzgerald is better, but will hardly be able to do any business.
Some think he will have leave of absence, that Dawson will exchange
offices with Courtenay, and do the business of the Board of Trade; others,
that Herries will succeed Vesey, or Frankland Lewis. The revenue has fallen
off one million and more. The accounts of distress from the country grow
worse and more desponding, and a return to one pound notes begins to be
talked of.

Roehampton, January 9th, 1830
Yesterday morning died Sir Thomas Lawrence after a very short
illness. Few people knew he was ill before they heard he was dead. He was
longè primus of all living painters, and has left no one fit to succeed him in
the chair of the Royal Academy. Lawrence was about sixty, very like
Canning in appearance, remarkably gentlemanlike, with very mild manners,
though rather too doucereux, agreeable in society, unassuming, and not a
great talker; his mind was highly cultivated, he had a taste for every kind of
literature, and was enthusiastically devoted to his art; he was very
industrious, and painted an enormous number of portraits, but many of his
later works are still unfinished, and great complaints used to be made of his
exacting either the whole or half payment when he began a picture, but that
when he had got the money he could never be prevailed on to complete it.

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Although he is supposed to have earned enormous sums by his paintings, he
has always been a distressed man, without any visible means of expense,
except a magnificent collection of drawings by the ancient masters, said to
be the finest in the world, and procured at great cost. He was, however, a
generous patron of young artists of merit and talent. It was always said that
he lost money at play, but this assertion seems to have proceeded more from
the difficulty of reconciling his pecuniary embarrassments with his
enormous profits than from any proof of the fact. He was a great courtier,
and is said to have been so devoted to the King that he would not paint
anybody who was personally obnoxious to his Majesty; but I do not believe
this is true. He is an irreparable loss; since Sir Joshua there has been no
painter like him; his portraits as pictures I think are not nearly so fine as Sir
Joshua’s, but as likenesses many of them are quite perfect. Moore’s was the
last portrait he painted, and Miss Kemble’s his last drawing.
The King has been very ill; lost forty ounces of blood. Vesey is better,
but has no chance of going on with his office. The general opinion seems to
be that Herries will succeed him. I do not believe he knows anything of the
business of the Board of Trade. Charles Mills told me yesterday that a
proposal was lately made by Government to the East India Company to
reduce their dividends, and that at the very time this was done Rothschild,
who had 40,000ℓ. East India stock, sold it all out, and all his friends who
held any did the same. The matter was eventually LEOPOLD AND THE THRONE OF
GREECE dropped, but he says nobody doubts that N—— gave notice to
Rothschild of the proposed measure. The Company are mightily satisfied
with Lord William Bentinck, who has acted very handsomely by them in
this business by the reduction of the pay of the troops. He has written some
very trimming letters to Lord Combermere, who is coming home, and if he
had not been, would probably have been recalled. The Duke, as well as the
Company, is furious with Combermere for the part he has acted in the affair.
Leopold’s election to the throne of Greece seems to be settled, and
while everybody has been wondering what could induce him to accept it, it
turns out that he has been most anxious for it, and has moved heaven and
earth to obtain it; that the greatest obstacle he has met with has been from
the King, who hates him, and cannot bear that he should become a crowned
head. He may think it ‘better to reign in hell than serve in heaven,’ but I
should have thought he had a better prospect here, with 50,000ℓ. a year and

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as uncle to the heiress apparent, than to go to a ruined country without cities
or inhabitants, and where everything is to be created, and to sit on such a
wretched throne as the nominee of the Allied Powers, by whom he will be
held responsible for his acts; however, ‘il ne faut pas disputer des goûts.’
George Bentinck told me that Lady Canning is not satisfied with
Stapleton’s book, particularly with that part of it in which he attempts to
answer Lord Grey’s speech, which she thinks poor and spiritless; he is not
disposed to be very severe on Lord Grey, being in a manner connected with
him. She is persuaded that that speech contributed to kill Canning; his
feelings were deeply wounded that not one of his friends said a word in
reply to it, although some of them knew that the facts in Lord Grey’s speech
were incorrect. He vehemently desired to be raised to the peerage, that he
might have an opportunity of answering it, and he had actually composed
and spoken to Mrs. Canning the speech which he intended to make in the
House of Lords. A great part of this she remembers. It seems, too, that to the
day of his death this was the ruling desire of his mind, and he had declared
that the following year, when he should have carried the Corn Bill through
the House of Commons, he would go to the House of Lords and fight the
battle there.

January 17th, 1830
Charles Mills told me the other day that the Chancellor of the
Exchequer has been making enquiries as to the fact of Rothschild having
sold his India stock at the time he did. The two Grants (Charles and Robert)
are always together, and both very forgetful and unpunctual. Somebody said
that if you asked Charles to dine with you at six on Monday, you were very
likely to have Robert at seven on Tuesday.
Edward Villiers (who has been living with Malcolm on board his ship
in the Mediterranean) writes word that Malcolm told him that he had orders,
in the event of Diebitsch’s marching upon Constantinople, to destroy the
Russian fleet. If this is true, it would have been a great outrage, and a most
extraordinary piece of vigour, after so much long-suffering and endurance.

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The country gentlemen are beginning to arrive, and they all tell the
same story as to the universally prevailing distress and the certainty of
things becoming much worse; of the failure of rents all over England, and
the necessity of some decisive measures or the prospect of general ruin. Of
course they differ as to the measures, but there appears to be a strong
leaning towards the alteration in the currency and one pound notes. It really
does appear, from many representations, that a notion prevails of the Duke
of Wellington’s indifference to the state of the country, and of his
disposition to treat the remonstrances and petitions of the people, as well as
their interests and feelings, with contempt, which I believe most false and
unjust. He has an overweening opinion of his own all-sufficiency, and that
is his besetting sin, and the one which, if anything does, will overturn his
Government, for if he would be less dictatorial and opinionated, and would
call to his assistance such talents and information as the crisis demands, he
would be universally POLITICAL MORALITY voted the best man alive to be at the
head of the Government; but he has such a set of men under him, and Peel
will never get over the Catholic question. [Peel got over it, but not before he
had expiated his conduct by being turned out.]

January 20th, 1830
The Duke and Lord Bathurst dined here yesterday, the former not in
good spirits. The battle about Leopold and Greece is still going on between
his Majesty and his Ministers. The Duke was talking about the robbery at
Brussels of the Princess of Orange’s jewels, and that there is reason to
believe that Pereira, the Prince’s friend, had some concern in it; many
people suspect that both he and the Prince were concerned. The Princess
was in the country, and only one maid-servant in the house where such
valuable property was left. The jewels were in a case, and the key of the
case was kept in a cabinet, which was opened, the key taken, and the large
case or chest opened by it. Small footsteps (like those of Pereira, who has
very small feet) were traced in the house or near it, and the day of the
robbery the porter was taken by Pereira’s servant to his house and there
made drunk. The robbery was discovered on Friday morning, but no steps
were taken to inform the police till Sunday night.

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January 22nd, 1830
I believe it to be impossible for a man of squeamish and
uncompromising virtue to be a successful politician, and it requires the
nicest feeling and soundest judgment to know upon what occasions and to
what extent it is allowable and expedient to diverge from the straight line.
Statesmen of the greatest power, and with the purest intentions, are
perpetually counteracted by prejudices, obstinacy, interest, and ignorance;
and in order to be efficient they must turn, and tack, and temporise,
sometimes dissemble. They who are of the ruat cœlum sort, who will carry
everything their own way or not at all, must be content to yield their places
to those who are certainly less scrupulous, and submit to the measures of
those who are probably less wise. But though it is possible that the less rigid
and austere politician may be equally virtuous and disinterested, the whole
context of his life must be such as to endure the most scrutinising enquiry,
which unfortunately it will very seldom do, in order to establish a character
for integrity. If Canning had had a fair field, he would have done great
things, for his lofty and ambitious genius took an immense sweep, and the
vigour of his intellect, his penetration and sagacity, enabled him to form
mighty plans and work them out with success; but it is impossible to believe
that he was a high-minded man, that he spurned everything that was
dishonest, uncandid, and ungentlemanlike; he was not above trick and
intrigue, and this was the fault of his character, which was unequal to his
genius and understanding. However, notwithstanding his failings he was the
greatest man we have had for a long time, and if life had been spared to
him, and opposition had not been too much for him, he would have raised
our character abroad, and perhaps found remedies for our difficulties at
home. What a difference between his position and that of the Duke of
Wellington’s! Everybody is disposed to support the latter and give him
unlimited credit for good intentions. The former was obliged to carry men’s
approbation by storm, and the moment he had failed, or been caught
tripping, he would have been lost.
The Duke has lately given audience to the West Indians who came to
complain of their sufferings and taxation and to implore relief. Murray and
Goulburn were present, neither of whom, it is said, spoke a word. The Duke
cut them very short, and told them they were not distressed at all, and that
nothing would be done for them. He is like the philosopher in Molière’s

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play, who says, ‘Il ne faut pas dire que vous avez reçu des coups de bâton,
mais qu’il vous semble que vous en avez reçus.’
Lawrence was buried yesterday; a magnificent funeral, which will
have cost, they say, 2,000ℓ. The pall was borne by Clanwilliam, Aberdeen,
Sir G. Murray, Croker, Agar Ellis, and three more—I forget who. There
were thirty-two mourning-coaches and eighty private carriages. The
ceremony in the church lasted two hours. Pretty well for a man DUKE OF
WELLINGTON’S POSITION who died in very embarrassed circumstances. The
favourites for the chair of the Academy are Shee and Wilkie, painters, and
Westmacott and Chantrey, sculptors.
We were talking of Clanwilliam, who Agar said was the quickest man
he had ever known; Luttrell said he and Rogers were ‘the quick and the
dead.’ Looking over the ‘Report of the Woods and Forests and the Cost of
the Palaces,’ somebody said ‘the pensive’ (meaning the public: see Rejected
Addresses) must pay; Luttrell said ‘the public was the pensive and the King
the expensive.’

January 26th, 1830
Yesterday afternoon Tierney died. He sank back in his chair and
expired suddenly, without any previous illness; he had been in an indifferent
state of health for some time, but he had resolved to make one more effort
in Parliament and deliver his opinion on the present state of affairs. He is a
great loss to all his friends; his political life was already closed.
Shee was elected President of the Royal Academy last night at ten
o’clock. He had sixteen or eighteen votes; Sir William Beechey six, who
was the nearest to Shee; Wilkie only two. He is an Irishman and a Catholic,
a bad painter, a tolerable poet, and a man of learning, but, it is said, florid.
Had a long conversation with Arbuthnot yesterday, who is weak, but
knows everything; his sentiments are the Duke’s. They are furious with the
old Tories, especially Lord Lonsdale, and not well satisfied with Lowther,
whom they suspect to be playing a sneaking, underhand part. The Duke is
determined not to alter his Government, nor to take anybody in to

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strengthen it. Arbuthnot said that the Duke had shown he did not mean to be
exclusive when he had taken in Scarlett and Calcraft, and that ‘his friends’
would not have borne any more extensive promotion from that party; that of
all Ministers he was the one who least depended upon Parliamentary
influence and the assistance of the great families; and that if Lord Lonsdale
and all his members were to leave him to-morrow, he would not care a
straw. Still he pays them, if not court, great deference, and he keeps
Lowther, though he suspects him. Arbuthnot said that as soon as the Duke
became Minister he said to him, ‘Now, Duke, for God’s sake settle that
question’ (the Catholic), which was as much as to say, ‘Now that you have
got rid of every enemy and every rival, now that you can raise your own
reputation, and that you will share the glory with no one, do that which you
would never let anybody else do, and fight for the measure you have been
opposing all your life.’ It may be imagined he would not have said this
unless he had been fully aware of the Duke’s sentiments on the subject. This
speech was made to him eight months after Canning came into office, when
they all went out, on the Catholic question. He says it is utterly false that
the Duke is unconscious of or indifferent to the distress, but that it is
exaggerated, and the Duke attributes it to temporary and not to permanent
causes; that he labours incessantly on the subject, and his thoughts are
constantly occupied with devising a remedy for it, which he thinks he can
do. He adverted to the difficulties with the King, who is never to be
depended upon, as his father was. He remembers upon some occasion,
when Perceval was Minister, and thought the difficulties of his situation
great, he represented to George III. his sense of them in a letter; Perceval
showed him the King’s answer, which was in these words:—‘Do you stand
by me as I will stand by you, and while we stand by each other we have
nothing to fear.’
I told Arbuthnot it was reported that the Duke had given a very rough
answer to the West Indian deputations, and that if he had it was unwise, as,
though he might not adopt such measures of relief as they desired, he could
treat them with soft language. He said that, so far from it, Lord Chandos
had returned to the Duke the next day, and apologised for their conduct to
him, assuring him that he was ashamed and tired of his connexion with
them, and should withdraw from it as soon as possible. This I mentioned at
Brookes’, but Gordon (a West Indian) said that they had all been shocked at

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the manner in which he had used them, that some of them had declared they
would never go to him THE COMING SESSION again; and Spring Rice said that old
George Hibbert, who has been their agent these thirty years, and had
attended deputations to every Prime Minister since Pitt, had told him that he
never saw one so ill received before. It is customary for every deputation to
draw out a minute of their conversation with the Minister, which they
submit to him to admit its correctness. They did so, but the Duke destroyed
their minute, and sent them back one drawn out by himself, which,
however, they declare was not so correct as that which had been transmitted
to him; which I can well believe, but they had no right to complain of this,
on the contrary.

January 30th, 1830
Laid up with the gout these last three days. George Bankes has
resigned, and John Wortley is appointed Secretary to the Board of Control.
He was of the Huskisson party, as it is called (though it does not deserve the
name), and previously to the offer of this place being made to him was
rather inimical to the Government; but the Duke proposed, and he accepted.
I doubt his being of much use to them. Lord Ellenborough’s letter to Sir
John Malcolm, which appeared in the ‘Times’ a few days ago, has made a
great deal of noise, as it well may, for a more flippant and injudicious
performance has seldom been seen.[5]
[5] [This letter, which excited much attention at this time, will be found in the ‘Life of Sir John
Malcolm,’ by Mr. (now Sir John) Kaye, vol. ii. p. 528. It had been written a year before, and by some
indiscretion obtained publicity in India. A warm dispute had broken out between Sir John Malcolm,
then Governor of Bombay, and the Judges of the Supreme Court there. Lord Ellenborough took
Malcolm’s part with great eagerness, and said of the Chief Justice, Sir J. P. Grant, that he ‘would be
like a wild elephant between two tame ones.’ This expression was long remembered as a joke against
Lord Ellenborough.]

The greatest curiosity and interest prevail about the transactions in the
ensuing session—whether there will be any opposition, and from what
quarter, how Peel will manage, how the country gentlemen will act and
what language they will hold, and whether the Duke will produce any plan
for alleviating the distress. I think there will be a great deal of talking and
complaining, a great many half-measures suggested, but no opposition, and

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that the Duke will do nothing, and get through the session without much
difficulty. There was to have been a Council on Thursday to prick the
sheriffs, but it was put off on account of my gout, and I was not able to
attend at the dinner at the Chancellor’s on Wednesday for the same reason. I
remember once before a Council was put off because I was at Egham for
the races; that was a Council in ’27, I think, to admit foreign corn.

February 1st, 1830
Stapleton’s book on Mr. Canning is not to appear. Douglas was sent to
him by Aberdeen to tell him that if anything appeared in it which ought not
to be published he would be turned out of his office. He wrote to Lady
Canning accordingly, who sent him a very kind answer, desiring him by no
means to expose himself to any such danger, and consenting to the
suppression of the work. I am glad of it on all accounts.

February 3rd, 1830
Brougham has given up Lord Cleveland’s borough, and comes in for
Knaresborough, at the Duke of Devonshire’s invitation. He is delighted at
the exchange. I see by the ‘Gazette’ there has been a compromise with the
King about the Catholic sheriffs; only one (Petre for Yorkshire) is chosen,
the others, though first on the list and no excuses, passed over: they were
Townley for Lancashire and Sir T. Stanley for Cheshire. It is childish and
ridiculous if so; but no matter, as the principle is admitted.
I have just finished the first volume of Moore’s ‘Life of Byron.’ I don’t
think I like this style of biography, half-way between ordinary narrative and
self-delineation in the shape of letters, diary, &c. Moore’s part is agreeably
and feelingly written, and in a very different style from the ‘Life of
Sheridan’—no turgid diction and brilliant antitheses. It is, however, very
amusing; the letters are exceedingly clever, full of wit, humour, and point,
abounding in illustration, imagination, and information, but not the most
agreeable sort of letters. They are joined together by a succession of little
essays upon his character. But as to life, it is no life at all; it merely tells you

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that the details of his life are not tellable, that they would be like those of
Tilly or Casanova, and so indecent, and compromise so many people,
CHARACTER OF LORD BYRON that we must be content to look at his life through an
impenetrable veil. Then in the letters and diary the perpetual hiatus, and
asterisks, and initials are exceedingly tantalising; but altogether it is very
amusing. As to Byron, I have never had but one opinion about his poetry,
which I think of first-rate excellence; an enormous heresy, of course, more
particularly with those whose political taste rests upon the same foundation
that their religious creed does—that of having been taught what to admire
in the one case as they have been enjoined what to believe in the other. With
regard to his character, I think Moore has succeeded in proving that he was
far from deficient in amiable qualities; he was high-minded, liberal,
generous, and good-natured, and, if he does not exaggerate his own
feelings, a warm-hearted and sincere friend. But what a wretch he was! how
thoroughly miserable with such splendid talents! how little philosophy!—
wretched on account of his lame foot; not even his successes with women
could reconcile him to a little personal deformity, though this is too hard a
word for it; then tormenting himself to death nobody can tell why or
wherefore. There never was so ill-regulated a mind, and he had not even the
talent of making his pleasures subservient to his happiness—not any notion
of enjoyment; all with him was riot, and debauchery, and rage and despair.
That he very sincerely entertained a bad opinion of mankind may be easily
believed; but so far from his pride and haughtiness raising him above the
influence of the opinion of those whom he so despised, he was the veriest
slave to it that ever breathed, as he confesses when he says that he was
almost more annoyed at the censure of the meanest than pleased with the
praises of the highest of mankind; and when he deals around his fierce
vituperation or bitter sarcasms, he is only clanking the chains which, with
all his pride, and defiance, and contempt, he is unable to throw off. Then he
despises pretenders and charlatans of all sorts, while he is himself a
pretender, as all men are who assume a character which does not belong to
them, and affect to be something which they are all the time conscious they
are not in reality. But to ‘assume a virtue if you have it not’ is more
allowable than to assume a vice which you have not. To wish to appear
better or wiser than we really are is excusable in itself, and it is only the
manner of doing it that may become ridiculous; but to endeavour to appear
worse than we are is a species of perverted vanity the most disgusting, and a

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very bad compliment to the judgment, the morals or the taste of our
acquaintance. Yet, with all his splendid genius, this sort of vanity certainly
distinguished Lord Byron, and that among many other things proves how
deeply a man may be read in human nature, what an insight he may acquire
into the springs of action and feeling, and yet how incapable he may be of
making any practical application of the knowledge he has acquired and the
result of which he can faithfully delineate. He gives a list of the books he
had read at eighteen which appears incredible, particularly as he says that
he was always idle, and eight years after Scott says he did not appear well
read either in poetry or history. Swift says ‘some men know books as others
do Lords—learn their titles, and then boast of their acquaintance with
them,’ and so perhaps at eighteen he knew by name the books he mentions;
indeed, the list contains Hooker, Bacon, Locke, Hobbes, Berkeley, &c. It
sounds rather improbable; but his letters contain allusions to every sort of
literature, and certainly indicate considerable information. ‘Dans le pays des
aveugles les borgnes sont rois,’ and Sir Walter Scott might think a man half
read who knows all that is contained in the brains of White’s, Brookes’, and
Boodle’s, and the greater part of the two Houses of Parliament. But the
more one reads and hears of great men the more reconciled one becomes to
one’s own mediocrity.
Say thou, whose thoughts at nothingness repine,
Shall Byron’s fame with Byron’s fate be thine?
Who would not prefer any obscurity before such splendid misery as was the
lot of that extraordinary man? Even Moore is not happy. One thinks how
one should like to be envied, and admired, and applauded, but after all such
men WEAKNESS OF THE GOVERNMENT suffer more than we know or they will
confess, and their celebrity is dearly purchased.
Se di ciascun l’interno affanno
Si leggesse in fronte scritto,
Quanti guai ch’invidia fanno
Ci farebbe pietà.
One word more about Byron and I have done. I was much struck by the
coincidence of style between his letters and his journal, and that appears to
me a proof of the reality and nature which prevailed in both.

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February 5th, 1830
Parliament met yesterday; there was a brisk debate and an amendment
on the Address in each House. The Duke had very indiscreetly called the
distress ‘partial’ in the Speech, and the consequence was an amendment
moved by Knatchbull declaring it to be general. The result shows that
Government has not the slightest command over the House of Commons,
and that they have nothing but casual support to rely upon, and that of
course will only be to be had ‘dum se bene gesserint.’ For a long time
Holmes and their whippers-in thought that they should be in a minority; but
Hume and a large party of Reformers supported them (contrary to their own
expectations), so they got a majority of 50 out of 250. The division was
very extraordinary, Brougham, Sadler, and O’Connell voting together. It is
pretty clear, however, that they are in no danger of being turned out, but that
they are wretchedly off for speakers. Huskisson made a shabby speech
enough, O’Connell his début, and a successful one, heard with profound
attention; his manner good and his arguments attended and replied to. In the
Lords there was nothing particular, but nothing was concerted by any party,
for the subject of the amendment in the Commons was not even touched
upon in the Lords, which is very remarkable. Lord Chandos has refused the
Mint, because they will not give him a seat in the Cabinet, but many people
think it is because he has been pressed to refuse by his High Tory friends.
Charles Ross is the new Lord of the Admiralty,[6] and Abercromby Chief
Baron of Scotland, which everybody is glad of.
[6] The appointment has not taken place.

There is a charlatan of the name of Chobert, who calls himself the Fire
King, who has been imposing upon the world for a year or more, exhibiting
all sorts of juggleries in hot ovens, swallowing poisons, hot lead, &c.; but
yesterday he was detected signally, and after a dreadful uproar was obliged
to run away to avoid the ill-usage of his exasperated audience. He pretended
to take prussic acid, and challenged anybody to produce the poison, which
he engaged to swallow. At last Mr. Wakley, the proprietor of the ‘Lancet,’
went there with prussic acid, which Chobert refused to take, and then the
whole deception came out, and there is an end of it; but it has made a great
deal of noise, taken everybody in, and the fellow has made a great deal of

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money. It was to have been his last performance, but ‘tant va la cruche à
l’eau qu’enfin....

February 13th, 1830
In the House of Lords last night: Lord Holland’s motion on Greece; his
speech was amusing, but not so good as he generally is; Aberdeen
wretched, the worst speaker I ever heard and incapable of a reply; I had no
idea he was so bad. The Duke made a very clever speech, answering
Holland and Melbourne, availing himself with great dexterity of the
vulnerable parts of their speeches and leaving the rest alone. I was sitting by
Robert Grant on the steps of the throne, and said to him, ‘That is a good
speech of the Duke’s,’ and he said, ‘He speaks like a great man;’ and so he
did; it was bold and manly, and a high tone, not like a practised debater, but
a man with a vigorous mind and determined character.
In the House of Commons Graham spoke for two hours; Burdett said
not well, but others said the contrary. The Government resolution moved as
an amendment by Dawson was better than his, so it was adopted without
difficulty. Burdett said Peel made the best speech he ever heard him make,
and threw over the Tories. Dined afterwards with Cowper, Durham, and
Glengall. Durham said that Lord Grey’s THE ENGLISH OPERA HOUSE BURNT politics
were the same as his, and that before Easter he thought an Opposition
would be formed, and that the elements, though scattered, exist of a strong
one. I doubt it.

February 16th, 1830
Last night the English Opera House was burnt down—a magnificent
fire. I was playing at whist at the ‘Travellers’ with Lord Granville, Lord
Auckland, and Ross, when we saw the whole sky illuminated and a volume
of fire rising in the air. We thought it was Covent Garden, and directly set
off to the spot. We found the Opera House and several houses in Catherine
Street on fire (sixteen houses), and, though it was three in the morning, the
streets filled by an immense multitude. Nothing could be more picturesque

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than the scene, for the flames made it as light as day and threw a glare upon
the strange and motley figures moving about. All the gentility of London
was there from Princess Esterhazy’s ball and all the clubs; gentlemen in
their fur cloaks, pumps, and velvet waistcoats mixed with objects like the
sans-culottes in the French Revolution—men and women half-dressed,
covered with rags and dirt, some with nightcaps or handkerchiefs round
their heads—then the soldiers, the firemen, and the engines, and the new
police running and bustling, and clearing the way, and clattering along, and
all with that intense interest and restless curiosity produced by the event,
and which received fresh stimulus at every renewed burst of the flames as
they rose in a shower of sparks like gold dust. Poor Arnold lost everything
and was not insured. I trust the paraphernalia of the Beefsteak Club
perished with the rest, for the enmity I bear that society for the dinner they
gave me last year.

February 19th, 1830
In the House of Lords last night to hear Melbourne’s motion about
Portugal—a rather long and very bad debate. Melbourne spoke very ill—
case very negligently got up, weakly stated, confused, and indiscreet—in
the same sense as his brother’s pamphlet, with part of which (the first part)
none of the members of Canning’s Administration or of Goderich’s agree,
and consequently it was answered by Lansdowne and Goderich. The latter
made an excellent speech, the only good one that was made. Aberdeen was
wretched; it is really too bad that a man should be Secretary for Foreign
Affairs who cannot speak better. The Duke made no case for the Terceira
business, and delivered a very poor speech; but I like his speaking—it is so
much to the point, no nonsense and verbiage about it, and he says strongly
and simply what he has to say. The other night on Greece there was a very
brisk skirmish between Palmerston and Peel, and the former spoke, they
say, remarkably well; the latter, as usual, was in a passion.

February 21st, 1830

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Dined with the Chancellor; Granvilles, Hollands, Moore, Luttrell, Lord
Lansdowne, Auckland, and one or two more; very agreeable. Lord Holland
told stories of Lord Thurlow, whom he mimicks, they say, exactly. When
Lord Mansfield died, Thurlow said, ‘I hesitated a long time between
Kenyon and Buller. Kenyon was very intemperate, but Buller was so
damned corrupt, and I thought upon the whole that intemperance was a less
fault in a judge than corruption, not but what there was a damned deal of
corruption in Kenyon’s intemperance.’ Lady Holland and I very friendly;
the first time I have met her in company since our separation (for we have
never quarrelled). She is mighty anxious to get me back, for no other reason
than because I won’t go. Everybody is surprised at Melbourne’s failure the
other night; some say he was not well, some that he did not like the
business. I doubt if he is up to it; he did not speak like a man that has much
in him.

February 23rd, 1830
Dined with Lord Bathurst and a dull party; but after dinner Lady
Bathurst began talking about the King, and told me one or two anecdotes.
When the account of Lord Liverpool’s seizure reached the King at
Brighton, Peel was at the Pavilion; the King got into one of his nervous
ways, and sent for him in the middle of the night, desiring he would not
dress; so he went down in his bedgown and sat by the side of the King’s
bed. Peel has got an awkward way of thrusting out his hands while he talks,
which at length provoked the King so much that he said, ‘Mr. Peel, it is no
use going on so (taking him off) WINDSOR CASTLE and thrusting out your hands,
which is no answer to my question.’
Went to Esterhazy’s ball; talked to old Rothschild, who was there with
his wife and a dandy little Jew son. He says that Polignac’s Government
will stand by the King’s support and Polignac’s own courage; offered to
give me a letter to his brother, who would give me any information I
wanted, squeezed my hand, and looked like what he is.

February 25th, 1830

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Yesterday at Windsor for a Council; the first time I have seen one held
in the new rooms of the Castle. They are magnificent and comfortable, the
corridor really delightful—furnished through its whole length of about 500
feet with the luxury of a drawing-room, and full of fine busts and bronzes,
and entertaining pictures, portraits, and curious antiquities. There were the
Chancellor, the Duke, three Secretaries of State, Bathurst, and Melville. The
King very blind—did not know the Lord Chancellor, who was standing
close to him, and took him for Peel; he would not give up the point, though,
for when he found his mistake he attributed it to the light, and appealed to
Lord Bathurst, who is stone-blind, and who directly agreed.

February 26th, 1830
Intended to go to the House of Lords to hear the debate on Lord
Stanhope’s motion (state of the nation), but went to see Fanny Kemble in
‘Mrs. Beverley’ instead. She had a very great success—house crowded and
plenty of emotion—but she does not touch me, though she did more than in
her other parts; however, she is very good and will be much better.
The debate in the Lords was not lively, and the Duke, they say, made a
most execrable speech. The fact is that he is not up to a great speech on a
great question; he wants the information and preparation, the discipline of
mind, that is necessary, and accordingly he exposes himself dreadfully, and
entirely lost all the advantages he had gained by the excellent speeches he
had previously made on other and more confined questions. He was very
angry with the Duke of Richmond, whose opposition to him is considered
by the Duke’s adherents as a sort of political parricide. Old Eldon spoke
very well, and Radnor; the rest but moderate.

February 27th, 1830
Dined at Lord Lansdowne’s; Moore, Rogers, J. Russell, Spring Rice,
Charles Kemble, Auckland, and Doherty; very agreeable, but Rogers was
overpowered by numbers and loud voices. Doherty told some good
professional stories, and they all agreed that Irish courts of justice afforded

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the finest materials for novels and romances. The ‘Mertons’ and
‘Collegians’ are both founded on facts; the stories are in the ‘New Monthly
Magazine;’ they said the author had not made the most of the ‘Collegians’
story. Very odd nervousness of Moore; he could not tell that story (of
Crampton’s), which I begged him to do, and which would not have been
lugged in neck and shoulders, because everybody was telling just such
stories; he is delighted with my note of it. Charles Kemble talked of his
daughter and her success—said she was twenty, and that she had once seen
Mrs. Siddons in ‘Lady Randolph’ when she was seven years old. She was
so affected in ‘Mrs. Beverley’ that he was obliged to carry her into her
dressing-room, where she screamed for five minutes; the last scream (when
she throws herself on his body) was involuntary, not in the part, and she had
not intended it, but could not resist the impulse. She likes Juliet the best of
her parts.

February 28th, 1830
Dined yesterday with Lord Stanhope; Murray the bookseller (who
published ‘Belisarius’), Wilkie the painter, and Lord Strangford; nobody
else of note. Wilkie appears stern, and might pass for mad; he said very
little. Murray chattered incessantly; talked to me a great deal about Moore,
who would have been mightily provoked if he had heard him. An odd
dinner, not agreeable, though Lord Stanhope is amusing, so strange in his
appearance, so ultra-Tory and anti-Liberal in his politics, full of information
and a good deal of drollery. Murray told me that Moore is going to write a
‘Life of Petrarch.’ Croker would have written Lawrence’s Life if Campbell
[the poet] had not seized the task before anybody else thought of laying
hold of it. He has circulated a command that all persons who have FOR ITALY
anything to communicate will send their letters to his secretary, and not to
him.

March 2nd, 1830
To-morrow I set out to Italy, after many years of anxiety to go there,
without violent expectations of pleasure, but not thinking of

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disappointment. I care not for leaving London or anything in it; there are a
few people whose society I regret, but as to friends or those who care for
me, or for whom I care, I leave few behind.

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CHAPTER VIII.
Calais — Beau Brummell — Paris — The Polignac Ministry —
Polignac and Charles X. — The Duke of Orleans — State of
Parties — Talleyrand — Lyons — First Impressions of
Mountain Scenery — Mont Cenis — Turin — Marengo —
Genoa — Road to Florence — Pisa — Florence — Lord and
Lady Burghersh — Thorwaldsen — Lord Cochrane — Rome —
St. Peter’s — Frascati — Grotta Ferrata — Queen Hortense and
Louis Napoleon — Coliseum — Death of Lady Northampton —
The Moses — Gardens — Palm Sunday — Sistine Chapel —
The Cardinals — Popes — Cardinal Albani — The Farnese
Palace — A Dead Cardinal — Pasquin — Statue of Pompey —
Galleries and Catacombs — Bunsen — The Papal Benediction
— Ceremonies of the Holy Week — The Grand Penitentiary —
A Confession — Protestant Cemetery — Illumination of St.
Peter’s — Torlonia — Bunsen on the Forum.

Paris, March 6th, 1830
I left London at three o’clock on Wednesday, the 3rd, and arrived at
Dover between twelve and one. Went over in the packet at nine on
Thursday, which was not to have sailed till twelve, but did go at nine,
principally because they heard that I had got despatches, for I had armed
myself with three passports couched in such terms as were most likely to be
useful. A good but rather long passage—near four hours—and the day
magnificent. Landed with difficulty in boats. Detained at Calais till seven.
There I had a long conversation with Brummell about his Consulship, and
was moved by his account of his own distresses to write to the Duke of
Wellington and ask him to do what he could for him. I found him in his old
lodging, dressing; some pretty pieces of old furniture in the room, an entire

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toilet of silver, and a large green macaw perched on the back of a tattered
silk chair with faded gilding; full of gaiety, impudence, and misery.
Lord Tweeddale came over in the packet, and we dined PARIS IN MARCH
1830 together. He was full of the Duke of Richmond’s speech about the Duke
of Wellington the other night, which he said had annoyed the Duke of
Wellington more than anything that ever happened to him, and that the
Duke of Richmond was now equally sorry for what he had said. He
(Tweeddale) was employed to carry a message from the one Duke to the
other, which, however, the Duke of Wellington did not take in good part,
nor does it seem that he is at all disposed to lay aside his resentment.
Tweeddale ranks Richmond’s talents very highly, and says he was greatly
esteemed in the army.
Left Calais at seven; travelled all night—the roads horrid in most parts
—and arrived at Paris last night at half-past twelve. Found everything
prepared—an excellent apartment, laquais de place, and courier. Called on
Lady Stewart and old Madame Craufurd, and wandered about the whole
day. Paris looking gay and brilliant in the finest weather I ever saw. I find
the real business is not to begin in the Chambers till about the 10th, so I
shall not wait for it. Polignac is said to be very stout, but the general
opinion is that he will be in a minority in the Chambers; however, as yet I
have seen nobody who can give good information about the state of parties.
For the first time (between Calais and Paris) I saw some new houses and
barns building near Abbeville and Beauvais, and the cottages near Monsieur
de Clermont-Tonnerre’s mansion had a very English look.
It is Lent, and very little going on here. During the Carnival they had a
ball for the benefit of the poor, which was attended by 5,000 people, and
produced 116,000 francs. Immense sums were given in charity, and well
appropriated during the severe weather. There are also nuns (soeurs de
charité), who visit and tend the sick, whose institution is far more
practically useful than anything of which our Protestant country can boast. I
shall only stay here a very few days.

March 8th, 1830

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It will be difficult to get away from this place if I don’t go at once; the
plot thickens, and I am in great danger of dawdling on, Yesterday morning I
walked about, visiting, and then went through the Tuileries and the
Carrousel. The Gardens were full of well-dressed and good-looking people,
and the day so fine that it was a glorious sight. The King is, after all, hardly
master of his own palace, for the people may swarm like bees all around
and through it, and he is the only man in Paris who cannot go into the
Gardens. Dined with Standish, Brooke Greville, Madame Alfred de
Noailles and her daughter, and then went to Madame de Flahault’s to see
the world and hear politics. After all, nobody has an idea how things will
turn out, or what are Polignac’s intentions or his resources. Lord Stuart[1]
told me that he knew nothing, but that when he saw all the Ministers
perfectly calm and satisfied, and heard them constantly say all would be
well, although all France and a clear majority in both Chambers seemed to
be against them, he could not help thinking they must have some reason for
such confidence, and something in reserve, of which people were not
aware. Lady Keith,[2] with whom I had a long talk, told me that she did not
believe it possible they could stand, that there was no revolutionary spirit
abroad, but a strong determination to provide for the stability of their
institutions, a disgust at the obstinacy and pretensions of the King, and a
desire to substitute the Orleans for the reigning branch, which was
becoming very general; that Polignac is wholly ignorant of France, and will
not listen to the opinions of those who could enlighten him. It is supposed
that the King is determined to push matters to extremity, to try the
Chambers, and if his Ministry are beaten to dissolve them and govern par
ordonnance du Roi, then to try and influence the elections and obtain a
Chamber more favourable than the present. Somebody told her the other
day of a conversation which Polignac had recently had with the King, in
which his Majesty said to him, ‘Jules, est-ce que vous m’êtes très-dévoué?’
‘Mais oui, Sire; pouvez-vous en douter?’ ‘Jusqu’à aller sur l’échafaud?’
‘Mais oui. Sire, s’il le faut.’ ‘Alors IMPENDING CRISIS IN FRANCE tout ira bien.’ It is
thought that he has got into his head the old saying that if Louis XVI. had
got upon horseback he could have arrested the progress of the Revolution—
a piece of nonsense, fit only for a man ‘qui n’a rien oublié ni rien appris.’ It
is supposed the Address will be carried against the Government by about
250 to 130. (It was 221 to 180. —— has a tabatière Warin of that day, with
the names of the 221 on the lid.) All the names presented to the King

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yesterday for the Presidency are obnoxious to him, but he named Royer
Collard, who had twice as many votes as any of the others. It was remarked
at the séance royale that the King dropped his hat, and that the Duke of
Orleans picked it up, and they always make a great deal of these trifles. The
Duke of Orleans is, however, very well with the Court, and will not stir, let
what will happen, though he probably feels like Macbeth before the murder
of Duncan—

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If chance will have me King, why let chance crown me
Without my stir.
[1] [Lord Stuart de Rothesay was then British Ambassador in Paris.]
[2] [Married to Count de Flahault; in her own right Baroness Keith and Nairn. She died in
1867.]

March 8th, 1830, at night
Walked about visiting, and heard all the gossip of Paris from little
Madame Graham, who also invited me to Pozzo di Borgo’s box at the
Opera. I don’t mean to record the gossip and scandal unless when I hear
something out of the common way and amusing. Dined with Stuart;
Tweeddale, Gurwood, Allen, and some heavy attachés; no French. He
appears to live handsomely. Afterwards to the Opera to see Taglioni, who
did not dance; then to Madame Appony’s, to whom I was introduced, and
we had plenty of bowing and smirking and civilities about my family.
Rather bored at the party, and am come home quite resolved to be off on
Thursday, but am greatly puzzled about my route, for everybody
recommends a different one.

March 9th, 1830
Dined with M. de Flahault; met M. de Talleyrand, Madame de Dino,
General Sébastiani, M. Bertin de Vaux, Duc de Broglie, and Montrond.
Sébastiani and Bertin de Vaux are Deputies, and all violent Oppositionists.
After dinner M. de Lescure, another man, and the young Duc de Valençay,
Madame de Dino’s son, came in. They talked politics all the time, and it
was curious enough to me. Bertin is the sort of man in appearance that
Tierney was, and shrewd like him; he is brother to the editor, and principal
manager himself, of the ‘Journal des Débats.’ Sébastiani is slow and
pompous. The Duc de Broglie is one of the best men in France. They all
agreed that the Government cannot stand. Talleyrand is as much against it
as any of them. Sébastiani told me they should have 280 against 130.
Talleyrand said that it was quite impossible to predict what might be the

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result of this contest (if the Court pushed matters to extremity) both to
France and Europe, and that it was astonishing surrounding nations, and
particularly England, did not see how deeply they were interested in the
event. He said of us, ‘Vous avez plus d’argent que de crédit.’ He looks
horridly old, but seems vigorous enough and alive to everything. After
dinner they all put their heads together and chattered politics as fast as they
could. Madame de Flahault is more violent than her husband, and her house
is the resort of all the Liberal party. Went afterwards to the Opera and saw
Maret, the Duc de Bassano, a stupid elderly bourgeois-looking man, with
two very pretty daughters. The battle is to begin in the Chamber on
Saturday or Monday on the Address. Talleyrand told me that the next three
weeks would be the most important of any period since the Restoration. It is
in agitation to deprive him of his place of Grand Chambellan.

Susa, March 15th, 1830, 9 o’clock.
Just arrived at this place at the foot of Mont Cenis. Left Paris on the
11th, at twelve o’clock at night. On the last day, Montrond made a dinner
for me at a club to see M. des Chapelles play at whist. I saw it, but was no
wiser; but I conclude he plays very well, for he always wins, is not
suspected of cheating, and excels at all other games. At twelve I got into my
carriage, and (only stopping an hour and a half for two breakfasts) got to
Lyons in forty-eight hours and a half. Journey not disagreeable, and roads
much better than MOUNTAIN SCENERY I expected, particularly after Macon, when
they became as good as in England; but the country presents the same
sterile, uninteresting appearance as that between Calais and Paris—no
hedges, no trees, except tall, stupid-looking poplars, and no châteaux or
farm-houses. I am at a loss to know why a country should look so ill which
I do not believe is either barren or ill cultivated. Lyons is a magnificent
town. It was dark when I arrived, or rather moonlight, but I could see that
the quay we came along was fine, and yesterday morning I walked about
for an hour and was struck with the grandeur of the place; it is like a great
and magnificent Bath; but I had not time to see much of it, and, with
beautiful weather, I set off at ten o’clock. The mountains (les Échelles de
Savoie) appear almost directly in the distance, but it was long before I could
make out whether they were clouds or mountains.

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After crossing the Pont de Beauvoisin we began to mount the Échelles,
which I did on foot, and I never shall forget the first impression made upon
me by the mountain scenery. It first burst upon me at a turn of the road—
one huge perpendicular rock above me, a deep ravine with a torrent rushing
down and a mountain covered with pines and ilexes on the other side, and
in front another vast rock which was shining in the reflected light of the
setting sun. I never shall forget it. How I turned round and round, afraid to
miss a particle of the glorious scene. It was the liveliest impression because
it was the first. I walked nearly to the other post with the most exquisite
pleasure, but it was dark by the time I got to La Grotta. I went on, however,
all night, very unhappy at the idea of losing a great deal of this scenery, but
consoled by the reflection that there was plenty left. As soon as it was light
I found myself in the middle of the mountains (the Lower Alps), and from
thence I proceeded across the Mont Cenis. Though not the finest pass, to
me, who had never seen anything like it, it appeared perfectly beautiful,
every turn in the road presenting a new combination of Alpine
magnificence. Nothing is more striking than the patches of cultivation in the
midst of the tremendous rocks and precipices, and in one or two spots there
were plots of grass and evergreens, like an English shrubbery, at the foot of
enormous mountains covered with snow. There was not a breath of air in
these valleys, and the sun was shining in unclouded brightness, so that there
was all the atmosphere of summer below with all the livery of winter above.
The altitude of some tall crag
That is the eagle’s birthplace, or some peak
Familiar with forgotten years, that shows,
Inscribed as with the silence of the thought
Upon its bleak and visionary sides,
The history of many a winter storm
Or obscure record of the path of fire.
There the sun himself
At the calm close of Summer’s longest day
Rests his substantial orb; between those heights,
And on the top of either pinnacle,
More keenly than elsewhere in night’s blue vault
Sparkle the stars, as of their station proud:
Thoughts are not busier in the mind of man

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Than the mute agents stirring there,—alone
Here do I sit and watch.
In one place, too, I remarked high up on the side of the rugged and barren
mountain two or three cottages, to arrive at which steps had been cut in the
rock. No sign of vegetation was near, so exactly the description of
Goldsmith:—
Dear is that shed to which their souls conform,
And dear that hill that lifts them to the storm;
In another place there was a cluster of houses and a church newly
built. Not far from Lans-le-Bourg (at the foot of Mont Cenis) is a very
strong fort, built by the King of Sardinia, which commands the road. It has
a fine effect perched upon a rock, and apparently unapproachable. A soldier
was pacing the battlement, and his figure gave life to the scene and
exhibited the immensity of the surrounding objects, so minute did he
appear. At Lans-le-Bourg they put four horses and two mules to my
carriage, but I took my courier’s horse and set off to ride up the mountain
with a THE MONT CENIS guide who would insist upon going with me, and who
proposed to take me up a much shorter way by the old road, which,
however, I declined; he was on foot, and made a short cut up the hill while I
rode by the road, which winds in several turns up the mountain. Fired with
mountainous zeal, I had a mind to try one of these short cuts, and giving my
horse to Paolo (my valet de chambre) set off with my guide to climb the
next intervening ascent; but I soon found that I had better have stuck to my
horse, for the immensity of the surrounding objects had deceived me as to
the distance, and the ground was so steep and slippery that, unprepared as I
was for such an attempt, I could not keep my footing. When about half-way
up, I looked ruefully round and saw steeps above and below covered with
ice and snow and loose earth. I could not get back, and did not know how to
get on. I felt like the man who went up in a balloon, and when a mile in the
air wanted to be let out. My feelings were very like what Johnson describes
at Hawkestone in his tour in Wales. ‘He that mounts the precipices at ——
wonders how he came thither, and doubts how he shall return; his walk is
an adventure and his departure an escape. He has not the tranquillity but the
horrors of solitude—a kind of turbulent pleasure between fright and
admiration.’ My guide, fortunately, was active and strong, and properly

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shod so he went first, making steps for me in the snow, into which I put my
feet after his, while with one hand I grasped the tail of his blue frock and
with the other seized bits of twig or anything I could lay hold of; and in this
ludicrous way, scrambling and clambering, hot and out of breath, to my
great joy I at last got to the road, and for the rest of the ascent contented
myself with my post-horse, who had a set of bells jingling at his head and
was a sorry beast enough. I was never weary, however, of admiring the
scenery. The guide told me he had often seen Napoleon when he was
crossing the mountain, and that he remembered his being caught in a
tormento,[3] when his life was saved by two young Savoyards, who took
him on their backs and carried him to a rifugio.[4] He asked them if they
were married, and, finding they were not, enquired how much was enough
to marry upon in that country, and then gave them the requisite sum, and
settled pensions of 600 francs on each of them. One is dead, the other still
receives it. As I got near the top of the mountain the road, which had
hitherto been excellent, became execrable and the cold intense. I had left
summer below and found winter above. I looked in vain for the chamois,
hares, wolves, and bears, all of which I was told are found there. At last I
arrived at the summit, and found at the inn a friar, the only inhabitant of the
Hospice, who, hearing me say I would go there (as my carriage was not yet
come), offered to go with me; he was young, fat, rosy, jolly, and dirty,
dressed in a black robe with a travelling-cap on his head, appeared quick
and intelligent, and spoke French and Italian. He took me over the Hospice,
which is now quite empty, and showed me two very decently furnished
rooms which the Emperor Napoleon used to occupy, and two inferior
apartments which had been appropriated to the Empress Maria Louisa. The
N.’s on the grille of the door had been changed for V.E.’s (Victor
Emmanuel) and M.T.’s (Maria Theresa), and frightful pictures of the
Sardinian King and Queen have replaced the Imperial portraits. All sorts of
distinguished people have slept there en passant, and do still when
compelled to spend the night on Mont Cenis. He offered to lodge and feed
me, but I declined. I told him I was glad to see Napoleon’s bedroom, as I
took an interest in everything which related to that great man, at which he
seemed extremely pleased, and said, ‘Ah, monsieur, vous êtes donc comme
moi.’ I dined at the inn (a very bad one) on some trout which they got for
me from the Hospice—very fine fish, but very ill dressed. The sun was
setting by the time I set off, it was dusk when I had got half-way down the

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descent, and dark before I had reached the first stage. When half-way down
the descent, the last rays of the sun were still TURIN gilding the tops of the
crags above, and the contrast between that light above and the darkness
below was very fine. From what I saw of it, and from what I guess,
straining my eyes into the darkness to catch the dim and indistinct shapes of
the mountains, the Italian side is the finest—the most wild and savage and
with more variety. On the French side you are always on the breast of the
same mountain, but on the Italian side you wind along different rocks
always hanging over a precipice with huge black, snow-topped crags
frowning from the other ridge. I was quite unhappy not to see it. Altogether
I never shall forget the pleasure of the two days’ journey and the first sight
of the Alps, exceeding the expectations I had formed, and for years I have
enjoyed nothing so much. The descent (at the beginning of which, by-the-
bye, I was very nearly overturned) only ends at this place, where I found a
tolerable room and a good fire, but the cameriere stinking so abominably of
garlic that he impregnated the whole apartment.
[3] A tormento (most appropriate name) is a tempest of wind, and sleet, and snow, exceedingly
dangerous to those who are met by it.
[4] A rifugio is a sort of cabin, of which there are several built at certain distances all the way up
the mountain, where travellers may take shelter.

Turin, March 16th, 1830
Got here early and meant to sleep, but have changed my mind and am
going on. A fine but dull-looking town. Found the two Forsters, who
pressed me to stay. Made an ineffectual attempt to get into the Egyptian
Museum, said to be the finest in the world. It was collected by Drovetti, the
French Consul, and offered to us for 16,000ℓ., which we declined to give,
and the King of Sardinia bought it. Forster told me that this country is rich,
not ill governed, but plunged in bigotry. There are near 400 convents in the
King’s dominions. It is the dullest town in Europe, and it is because it looks
so dull that I am in a hurry to get out of it. This morning was cloudy, and
presented fresh combinations of beauty in the mountains when the clouds
rolled round their great white peaks, sometimes blending them in the murky
vapour, and sometimes exhibiting their sharp outlines above the wreath of

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mist. I did not part from the Alps without casting many a lingering look
behind.

Genoa, March 18th, 1830
Got on so quick from Turin that I went to Alessandria that night, and
set off at half-past six yesterday morning. Crossed the field of battle of
Marengo, a boundless plain (now thickly studded with trees and houses),
and saw the spot where Desaix was killed. The bridge over the Bormida
which Melas crossed to attack the French army is gone, but another has
been built near it. The Austrians or Sardinians have taken down the column
which was erected to the memory of Desaix on the spot where he fell; they
might as well have left it, for the place will always be celebrated, though
they only did as the French had done before. After the battle of Jena they
took down the Column of Rossbach,[5] but that was erected to
commemorate the victory, and this the death of the hero. I feel like Johnson
—‘far far from me and my friends be that frigid philosophy which can
make us pass unmoved over any scenes which have been consecrated by
virtue, by valour, or by wisdom’—and I strained the eyes of my imagination
to see all the tumult of this famous battle, in which Bonaparte had been
actually defeated, yet (one can hardly now tell how) was in the end
completely victorious. This pillar might have been left, too, as a striking
memorial of the rapid vicissitudes of fortune: the removal of it has been
here so quick, and at Rossbach so tardy, a reparation of national honour.
[5] The battle of Rossbach was gained by Frederick the Great over the French and Austrians in
1757.

The Apennines are nothing after the Alps, but the descent to Genoa is
very pretty, and Genoa itself exceeds everything I ever saw in point of
beauty and magnificence.
How boldly doth it front us, how majestically—
Like a luxurious vineyard: the hill-side
Is hung with marble fabrics, line o’er line,
Terrace o’er terrace, nearer still and nearer
To the blue heavens, here bright and sumptuous palaces

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With cool and verdant garden interspersed.
* * * * * *
While over all hangs the rich purple eve.
Milman’s Fall of Jerusalem.
I passed the whole day after I got here in looking into the palaces and
gardens and admiring the prospect on every PALACES AND CHURCHES OF GENOA
side. You are met at every turn by vestiges of the old Republic; in fact, the
town has undergone very little alteration for hundreds of years, and there is
an air of gaiety and bustling activity which, with the graceful costume of
the men and women, make it a most delightful picture. Genoa appears to be
a city of palaces, and although many of the largest are now converted to
humbler uses, and many fallen to decay, there are ample remains to show
the former grandeur of the princely merchants who were once the lords of
the ocean. Everything bespeaks solidity, durability, and magnificence. There
are stupendous works which were done at the expense of individuals. In
every part of the town are paintings and frescoes, which, in spite of constant
exposure to the atmosphere, have retained much of their brilliancy and
freshness. The palaces of Doria are the most interesting; but why the Senate
gave him that which bears still the inscription denoting its being their gift it
is difficult to say, when his own is so superior and in a more agreeable
situation. The old palace of Andrew is now let for lodgings, and the Pamfili
Doria live at Rome. The walls are covered with inscriptions, and I stopped
to read two on stone slabs on the spot where the houses of malefactors had
formerly stood, monuments of the vindictive laws of the Republic, which
not only punished the criminal himself, but consigned his children to
infamy and his habitation to destruction; though they stand together they are
not of the same date. There is no temptation to violate the decree by
building again on the spot, for they are in a narrow, dirty court, to which
light can scarcely find access. The Ducal Palace now belongs to the
Governor. It has been modernised, but in the dark alleys adjoining there are
remains demonstrative of its former extent—pictures of the different Doges
in fresco on the walls half erased, and little bridges extending from the
windows (or doors) of the palace to the public prisons and other adjoining
buildings. The view from my albergo (della villa) is the gayest imaginable,
looking over the harbour, which is crowded with sailors and boats full of
animation.

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Evening.—Passed the whole day seeing sights. Called on Madame
Durazzo, and went with her and her niece, Madame Ferrari, to the King’s
palace, formerly a Durazzo palace. Like the others, a fine house, full of
painting and gilding, and with a terrace of black and white marble
commanding a view of the sea. The finest picture is a Paul Veronese of a
Magdalen with our Saviour. The King and Queen sleep together, and on
each side of the royal bed there is an assortment of ivory palms, crucifixes,
boxes for holy water, and other spiritual guards for their souls. For the
comfort of their bodies he has had a machine made like a car, which is
drawn up by a chain from the bottom to the top of the house; it holds about
six people, who can be at pleasure elevated to any storey, and at each
landing-place there is a contrivance to let them in and out. From thence to
the Brignole Palace (called the Palazzo Rosso), where I met M. and
Madame de Brignole, who were very civil and ordered a scientific footman
to show us the pictures. They are numerous and excellent, but we could
only take a cursory look at them; the best are the Vandykes, particularly a
Christ and a portrait of one of the Brignoles on horseback, and a beautiful
Carlo Dolce, a small bleeding Christ. I saw the churches—San Stefano,
Annunziata, the Duomo, San Ambrosio, San Cyro. There are two splendid
pictures in the Ambrosio, a Guido and a Rubens; the Martyrdom in the San
Stefano, by Julio Romano and Raphael, went to Paris and was brought back
in 1814. The churches have a profusion of marble, and gilding, and
frescoes; the Duomo is of black and white marble, of mixed architecture,
and highly ornamented—all stinking to a degree that was perfectly
intolerable, and the same thing whether empty or full; it is the smell of stale
incense mixed with garlic and human odour, horrible combination of
poisonous exhalations. I must say, as everybody has before remarked, that
there is something highly edifying in the appearance of devotion which
belongs to the Catholic religion; the churches are always open, and, go into
them when you will, you see men and women kneeling and praying before
this or that altar, PALACES AND CHURCHES OF GENOA absorbed in their occupation,
and who must have been led there by some devotional feeling. This seems
more accordant with the spirit and essence of religion than to have the
churches, as ours are, opened like theatres at stated hours and days for the
performance of a long service, at the end of which the audience is turned
out and the doors are locked till the next representation. Then the Catholic
religion makes no distinctions between poverty and wealth—no pews for

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the aristocracy well warmed and furnished, or seats set apart for the rich
and well dressed; here the church is open to all, and the beggar in rags
comes and takes his place by the side of the lady in silks, and both, kneel on
the same pavement, for the moment at least and in that place reduced to the
same level.
I saw the Ducal Palace, where there are two very fine halls,[6] the old
Hall of Audience and the Hall of Council, the latter 150 by 57 feet; and the
Doria Palace, delightfully situated with a garden and fine fountain, and a
curious old gallery opening upon a marble terrace, richly painted, gilt and
carved, though, now decayed. Here the Emperor Napoleon lived when he
was at Genoa, preferring Andrew Doria’s palace to a better lodging: he had
some poetry in his ambition after all. Lastly to the Albergo dei Poveri,[7] a
noble institution, built by a Brignole and enriched by repeated benefactions;
like all the edifices of the old Genoese, vast and of fine proportions. The
great staircase and hall are adorned with colossal statues of its benefactors
(among whom are many Durazzos), and the sums that they gave or
bequeathed are commemorated on the pedestals. In the chapel is a piece of
sculpture by Michael Angelo, a dead Christ and Virgin (only heads), and an
altarpiece by Puget. Branching out from the chapel are two vast chambers,
lofty, airy, and light, one for the men, the other for the women. About 800
men and 1,200 or 1,300 women are supported here. Many of the nobles are
said to be rich—Ferrari, Brignole, Durazzo, and Pallavicini particularly. I
forgot to mention the chapel and tomb of Andrew Doria; the chapel he built
himself; his body, arrayed in princely robes, lies in the vault. There is a
Latin inscription on the chapel, signifying that he stood by the country in
the days of her affliction. It is a pretty little chapel full of painting and
gilding. In the early part of the Revolution the tomb narrowly escaped
destruction, but it was saved by the solidity of its materials. I gave the man
who showed me this tomb a franc, and he kissed my hand in a transport of
gratitude.
[6] They are left just in the state in which they were in the time of the Republic; the balustrade
still surrounds the elevated platform on which the throne of the Doge was placed.
[7] The Albergo dei Poveri and the Scoghetti Gardens pleased me more than anything I saw in
Genoa. I am sorry I did not see the Sordi e Muti, which is admirably conducted, and where the pupils
by all accounts perform wonders. The Albergo is managed by a committee consisting of the principal
nobles in the town. The Scoghetti Gardens are delightfully laid out; there is a shrubbery of evergreens
with a cascade, and a summer-house paved with tiles—two or three rooms in it, and a hot and cold

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bath. It is astonishing how they cherish the memory of ‘Lord Bentinck.’[7a] I heard of him in various
parts of the town, particularly here, as he lived in the house when first he came to Genoa. The
Gardens command a fine view of the city, the sea, and the mountains. The saloon in the Serra is only
a very splendid room, glittering with glass, and gold, and lapis lazuli; by no means deserves to be
called, as it is by Forsyth, the finest saloon in Europe. It is not very large, and not much more gilt
than Crockford’s drawing-room, but looks cleaner, though it has been done these seventy years or
more.
[7a] [Lord William Bentinck was Mr. Greville’s uncle.]

Florence, March 21st, 1830
Arrived here at seven o’clock. Left Genoa on the 19th (having
previously gone to see the Scoghetti Gardens and the Serra Palace), and
went to Sestri to pass that evening and the next morning with William
Ponsonby, who was staying there. The road from Genoa to Chiavari is one
continual course of magnificent scenery, winding along the side of the
mountains and hanging over the sea, the mountains studded with villages,
villas, and cottages which appear like white specks at a distance, till on near
approach they swell into life and activity. The villas are generally painted as
at Genoa; the orange trees were in full bloom, and the gardens often slope
down to the very margin of the sea. Every turn in the road and each SESTRI
AND PISA fresh ascent supplies a new prospect, and the parting view of Genoa,
with the ocean before and the Apennines behind, cannot be imagined by
those who have not seen it. ‘Si quod vere natura nobis dedit spectaculum in
hac tellure vere gratum et philosopho dignum, id semel, mihi contigisse
arbitror, cum ex celsissimâ rupe speculabundus ad oram maris mediterranei,
hinc aequor cæruleum, illinc tractus Alpinos prospexi, nihil quidem magis
dispar aut dissimile nec in suo genere magis egregium et singulare.’[8]
[8] Burnet’s ‘Theory of the Earth.’

Chiavari and Sestri are both beautiful, especially the latter, in a little
bay with a jutting promontory, a rocky hill covered with evergreens, and
shrubs, and heather, and affording grand and various prospects of the still
blue sea and the white and shining coast with the dark mountains behind—
A sunny bay
Where the salt sea innocuously breaks
And the sea breeze as innocently breathes

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On Sestri’s leafy shores—a sheltered hold
In a soft clime encouraging the soil
To a luxuriant beauty.
The mountain road from Chiavari to La Spezzia presents the same
scenery as far as Massa and Carrara, which I unfortunately lost by travelling
in the night. I crossed the river in the boat by candle-light, which was
picturesque enough, the scanty light gleaming upon the rough figures who
escorted me and plied the enormous poles by which they move the ferry-
boat. Got to Pisa to breakfast (without stopping at Lucca), and passed three
hours looking at the Cathedral, Leaning Tower, Baptistry, and Campo
Santo, the last of which alone would take up the whole day to be seen as it
ought. The Cathedral is under repair; the pictures have been covered up or
taken down, and the whole church was full of rubbish and scaffolding; but
in this state I could see how fine it is, and admire the columns which
Forsyth praises, and the roof and many of the marbles. The Grand Duke has
ordered it all to be cleaned, and very little of it to be altered. One alteration,
however, is in very bad taste; he has taken away the old confessionals of
carved wood, and substituted others of marble, fixed in the wall, which are
exactly like modern chimney-pieces, and have the worst effect amidst the
surrounding antiquities. The exterior is rather fantastic, but the columns are
beautiful, and John of Bologna’s bronze doors admirable. The Campo Santo
is full of ancient tombs, frescoes, modern busts, and morsels of sculpture of
all ages and descriptions. The Leaning Tower[9] is 190 feet high, and there
are 293 steps to the top of it, which I climbed up to view the surrounding
country, but it was not clear enough to see the sea and Elba. Here is the
finest aqueduct I have seen, which continues to pour water into the town.
Part of the old wall[10] with its towers is still standing. These pugnacious
republics, who were always squabbling with each other and wasting their
strength in civil broils, erected very massive defences. The Pisans are proud
of their ancient exploits. The San Stefano or Chiesa dei Cavalieri is full of
standards taken from the Turks, and the man who showed me the Campo
Santo said that a magnificent Grecian vase which is there had been brought
from Genoa by the Pisans before the foundation of Rome. There are
Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, and Grecian remains, which have been
plundered, or conquered, or purchased by patriotic Pisans to enrich their
native city. The frescoes are greatly damaged. I went to look at the

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celebrated house ‘Alla Giornata,’ a white marble palace on the Arno; the
chains still hang over the door, and there is an inscription above them which
looks modern. My laquais de place told me what I suppose is the tradition
of the place—that the son of the family was taken by the Turks, and that
they had captured a Turk, who was put in chains; that an exchange was
agreed upon, and the prisoners on either side released, and that the chains
were FLORENCE hung up and the inscription added, signifying that the Turk
was at liberty to go again into the light of day. But it was a lame and
improbable story, and I prefer the mystery to the explanation.
[9] There was another leaning edifice, but the Grand Duke had it pulled down; it was thought
dangerous.
[10] It had been destroyed, but was restored by the Medici or the present family.

Much as I was charmed with the mountains, I was not sorry, for a
change, to get into the rich, broad plain of Tuscany, full of vineyards and
habitations along the banks of the Arno. The voice and aspect of
cheerfulness is refreshing after a course of rugged and barren grandeur; the
road is excellent and the travelling rapid. Yesterday being a holiday, and to-
day Sunday, the whole population in their best dresses have been out on the
road, and very good-looking they generally are. There are not more beggars
than in France, and certainly a far greater appearance of prosperity
throughout the north of Italy than in any part of France I have seen,
although there are the same complaints of distress and poverty here that are
heard both there and in England. Thorwaldsen, the sculptor, is in this inn,
and the King of Bavaria left it this morning. The book of strangers is rather
amusing; the entries are sometimes remarkable or ridiculous. I found ‘La
Duchesse de Saint-Leu et le Prince Louis-Napoléon; Lord and Lady
Shrewsbury and family; Miss Caroline Grinwell, of New York; the King of
Bavaria (not down in the book though); Thorwaldsen’. Tuscany seems to be
flourishing and contented; the Government is absolute but mild, the Grand
Duke enormously rich.

March 23rd, 1830
Yesterday morning breakfasted with Lord Normanby, who has got a
house extending 200 feet in front, court, garden, and stables for about 280ℓ.

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a year, everything else cheap in proportion, and upon 2,000ℓ. a year a man
may live luxuriously. His house was originally fitted up for the Pretender,
and C. R.’s are still to be seen all over the place. Called on Lord Burghersh,
[11] who was at breakfast—the table covered with manuscript music, a
pianoforte, two fiddles, and a fiddler in the room. He was full of
composition and getting up his opera of ‘Phædra’ for to-morrow night. The
Embassy is the seat of the Arts, for Lady Burghersh has received the gift of
painting as if by inspiration, and she was in a brown robe in the midst of
oils, and brushes, and canvas; and a model was in attendance, some part of
whose person was to be introduced into a fancy piece. She copies pictures
in the Gallery, and really extraordinarily well if it be true that till a year ago
she had never had a brush in her hand, and that she is still quite ignorant of
drawing.
[11] [Lord Burghersh, afterwards Earl of Westmoreland, was then British Minister at Florence.]

Went into two or three of the churches, then to the Gallery, and sat for
half an hour in the Tribune, but could not work myself into a proper
enthusiasm for the ‘Venus,’ whose head is too small and ankles too thick,
but they say the more I see her the more I shall like her. I prefer the
‘Wrestlers,’ and the head of the ‘Remontleur’ is the only good head I have
seen, the only one with expression. ‘Niobe’ is fine, but I can’t bear her
children, except one. Then to the Casine on horseback to see the town and
the world: it seems a very enjoyable place. This morning again dropped into
some of the churches, after which I have always a hankering, though there
is great sameness in them, but I have a childish liking for Catholic pomp.
The fine things are lost amidst a heap of rubbish, but there is no lack of
marble, and painting, and gilding in most of them. They are going on with
the Medici Chapel, on which millions have been wasted and more is going
after, for the Grand Duke is gradually finishing the work. The profusion of
marble is immense, and very fine and curious if examined in detail; the
precious stones are hardly seen, and when they are, not to be recognised as
such. To the Pitti Palace, of which one part is under repair and not visible,
but I saw most of the best pictures. I like pictures better than statues. It is a
beautiful palace, and well furnished for show. Nobody knows what Vandyke
was without coming here. To the Gabinetto Fisico, and saw all the wax-
works, the progress of gestation, and the representation of the plague,

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incomparably clever and well executed. I saw nothing disgusting in the
wax-works in the museum, which many people are so squeamish about.
Before dinner yesterday called upon Thorwaldsen, who FLORENCE was in
the inn, to tell him Lord Gower likes his ‘Ganymede.’ He was mighty
polite, squeezed my hand, and reconducted me to my own door. At night
went to the Opera and heard David and Grisi in ‘Ricciardo e Zoraida.’ She
is like Pasta in face and figure, but much handsomer, though with less
expression. She is only eighteen. He has lost much of his voice, and
embroiders to make up for it, but every now and then he appears to find it
again, and his taste and expression are exquisite. To-night at a child’s ball at
Lady Williamson’s, where I was introduced to Lord Cochrane, and had a
great deal of talk with him; told him I thought things would explode at last
in England, which he concurred in, and seemed to like the idea of it, in
which we differ, owing probably to the difference of our positions; he has
nothing, and I everything, to lose by such an event.

March 25th, 1830
Went yesterday morning to Santa Croce to hear a Mass on the
completion of a monument which has been erected to Dante; very crowded
and the music indifferent. Afterwards to the Gallery and saw all the
cabinets, but we were hurried through them too rapidly. I began to like the
‘Venus’ better, best of all the statues. The ‘Niobe’[12] cannot have been a
group, nor the children have belonged to the mother. Rode to Normanby’s
villa at Sesto, five miles from Florence; a large and agreeable house,
gardens full of fountains, statues, busts, orange and lemon trees, shrubs and
flowers. He pays 600 dollars a year for it, exclusive of the race-ground. In
the evening to Burghersh’s opera, which was very well performed; pretty
theatre, crowded to suffocation. All the actors amateurs;[13] chorus
composed of divers ladies and gentlemen of Florence, principally English.
Here all the society of Florence was assembled in nearly equal proportions
of Italians, English, and other foreigners. Nothing can be worse than it is,
for there is no foundation of natives, and the rest are generally the refuse of
Europe, people who come here from want of money or want of character.
Everybody is received without reference to their conduct, past or present,

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with the exception, perhaps, of Englishwomen who have been divorced,
whose case is too notorious to allow the English Minister’s wife to present
them at Court.
[12] The ‘Niobe’ is supposed to have been a group upon some temple

so, of which the mother was the centre figure; this makes it more probable, but the difficulty to this
hypothesis is, that there do not appear to be the necessary gradations in the size or altitude of the
other figures; the sons in the ‘Laocoon’ are certainly little men.
[13]
Phædra Miss Williams Soprano.
Hippolytus Madame Vigano Contralto.
The Girl Madame de Bombelles Soprano.
Theseus Goretti Tenor.
Attendant Franceschini Bass.

March 26th, 1830
Yesterday morning to a Mass at the Annunziata, to which the Grand
Duke came in state, with his family and Court. The piazza was lined with
guards; seven coaches-and-six with his guardia nobile and running
footmen; the Mass beautifully performed by his band, Tacchinardi (father of
Madame Persiani, I believe) singing and Manielli directing. Then rode to
Lord Cochrane’s villa, where we found them under a matted tent in the
garden, going to dinner. He talks of going to Algiers to see the French
attack it. He has made 100,000ℓ. by the Greek bonds. It is a pity he ever got
into a scrape; he is such a fine fellow, and so shrewd and good-humoured.
To the Certosa, on a hill two miles from Florence; very large convent,
formerly very rich, and had near forty monks, now reduced to seven
residents, though there are a few more who belong to it, but who are absent.
It is in good repair, but looks desolate. There is an old monk, Don
Fortunatus by name, who understands English and speaks it tolerably,
delights in English people and books, received us in his cell, which consists
of two or three little apartments, not uncomfortable and commanding a
beautiful view; talked with great pleasure of his English acquaintance, and

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showed all their cards, which he treasured up. A very lively, good-
humoured old friar. Returned to ride in the Corso, which is a narrow street
going from the Duomo to the Annunziata, to drive up and down which is
one of the ceremonies of the day (Lady Day), as the people are supposed to
go and pay their respects to the Virgin. In the evening to the Opera and
heard David again.

Rome, March 29th, 1830
ROME Set off yesterday morning at half-past seven from Florence, and
arrived here at six this evening in a fine glowing sunset, straining my eyes
to catch interesting objects, and trying in vain to make out the different
hills. The last two days at Florence I went to the Gallery and Pitti Palace
again with the Copleys. Half the rooms were shut up when I was at the Pitti
before, but we now saw them all, and probably the finest collection of
pictures in the world. The Raphaels, Rubens, Andrea del Sartos, and
Salvators I liked the best. On Saturday evening went to Court and was
presented to the Grand Duke, who is vulgar-looking and has bad manners;
but the whole thing is rather handsome. Stopped at Siena to see the
cathedral; very fine, the ancient fount beautiful. The mutilated Graces I am
not connoisseur enough to appreciate, but the illuminated Missals of the
thirteenth century I thought admirable, both for the colouring and the
drawing, and as exquisitely finished as any miniature. The entrance to
Rome through the Porta del Popolo appeared very fine, but I was
disappointed in the first distant view of the city from the hill above Viterbo.
I passed Radicofani in the dark, and saw little to admire in the Lake of
Bolsena or the surrounding country. The women throughout Italy appeared
very handsome, one quite beautiful at Siena.

March 30th, 1830
This morning I awoke very early, and could not rest till I had seen St.
Peter’s; so set off in a hackney coach, drove by the Piazza della Colonna
and the Castle of St. Angelo (which burst upon me unexpectedly as I turned
on the bridge), and got out as soon as St. Peter’s was in sight. My first

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feeling was disappointment, but as I advanced towards the obelisk, with the
fountains on each side, and found myself in that ocean of space with all the
grand objects around, delight and admiration succeeded. As I walked along
the piazza and then entered the church, I felt that sort of breathless
bewilderment which was produced in some degree by the first sight of the
Alps. Much as I expected I was not disappointed. St. Peter’s sets criticism at
defiance; nor can I conceive how anybody can do anything but admire and
wonder there, till time and familiarity with its glories shall have subjected
the imagination to the judgment. I then came home and went with Morier to
take a cursory view of the city and blunt the edge of curiosity. In about five
hours I galloped over the Forum, Coliseum, Pantheon, St. John Lateran,
Santa Maria Maggiore, the Vatican, and several arches and obelisks. I
cannot tell which produced the greatest impression, St. Peter’s or the
Coliseum; but if I might only have seen one it should be the Coliseum, for
there can be nothing of the same kind besides.[14]
[14] Of the same kind there is, at Pompeii, but not near so fine; more perfect as a specimen, far
less beautiful as an object. And the amphitheatre at Verona, but that is very inferior.

They only who have seen Rome can have an idea of the grandeur of it
and of the wonders it contains, the treasures of art and the records of
antiquity. Of course I had the same general idea of there being much to see
that others have, but was far from being prepared for the reality, which
exceeds my most sanguine expectations. The Vatican alone would require
years to be examined as it deserves. It is remarkable, however, how the
pleasure of the imagination arising from antiquities depends upon their
accidents. The busts, statues, columns, tombs, and fragments of all sorts are
heaped together in such profusion at the Vatican that the eyes ache at them,
the senses are bewildered, and we regard them (with some exceptions)
almost exclusively as objects of art, and do not feel the interest which,
separately, they might inspire by their connection with remote ages,
whereas there is scarcely one of those, if it were now to be discovered, that
would not excite the greatest curiosity, and be, in the midst of the ruins to
which it belongs, an object of far greater interest than a finer production
which had taken its splendid but frigid position in this collection. We went
to the Sistine Chapel, and saw Michael Angelo’s frescoes, which Sir Joshua
Reynolds says are the finest paintings in the world, and which the unlearned
call great rude daubs. I do not pretend to the capacity of appreciating their

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merits, but was very much struck with the ease, and SIGHTS OF ROME grace, and
majesty of some of the figures; it was, however, too dark to see the ‘Last
Judgment.’ I ended by St. Peter’s again, where there were many devout
Catholics praying round the illuminated tomb of the Apostle, and many
foolish English poking into it to stare and ask questions, the answers to
which they did not understand. I have but one fault to find, and that is with
the Glory, a miserable transparency in the great window opposite the
entrance, throwing a yellow light upon the Dove, which has the most paltry
effect, and is utterly unworthy of the grandeur of such a place.

April 1st, 1830
Yesterday morning at nine o’clock went with Edward Cheney and
George Hamilton to Frascati to dine with Henry Fox, who has got a villa
there. As soon as we arrived Cheney and I walked over to Grotta Ferrata to
see Domenichino’s frescoes. The convent is about a mile and a half off,
large, formerly rich, full of monks, and a fortress; also the scene of various
miracles performed by St. Nilo, the founder and patron saint; now tenanted
by a few beggarly friars, and part of it let to Prince Gagarin, the Russian
Minister, as a villa. Domenichino sought and found an asylum there in
consequence of some crime he had committed or debt he had incurred; he
stayed there two years, and in return for the hospitality of the monks
adorned their chapel with (some think) the finest frescoes in the world.
They are splendid pictures, and all painted by his own hand.
At dinner we had Hortense, the ex-Queen of Holland, her son, Prince
Louis Napoleon, her lady in waiting, Lady Sandwich and her daughter,
Cheney, Hamilton, Lord Lovaine, and Fordwich. We dined in the garden,
but there was too much wind for a fête champêtre. Hortense is not near so
ugly as I expected, very unaffected and gay, and gives herself no royal airs.
The only difference between her and anybody else was that, after dinner,
when she rose from table, her own servant presented her with a finger-glass
and water, which nobody else had. She is called Madame.
We returned by moonlight, and though I did not go into the Coliseum,
because the moon was not full enough, it looked fine, and the light shining
through the lower arches had a beautiful effect. This morning went a long

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round of sights—Caesar’s Palace, of which there are no remains but
fragments of walls; it really does ‘grovel on earth in indistinct decay.’
Caracalla’s Baths, which are stupendous; the custode showed us a room in
which were heaped up bits of marble of all sorts and sizes, fragments of
columns and friezes; and he told us that they never excavated without
finding something. And Titus’s Baths, less magnificent but equally curious,
because they contain the remains of the Golden House of Nero, on which
Titus built his Thermæ. The ruins are, in fact, part of the Golden House, for
the Thermæ have been altogether destroyed. Then to the Capitol, Forum,
Temple of Vesta, Fortuna Virilis, and other places with Morier. The Capitol
contains an interesting collection of busts and statues of all the Emperors,
most famous characters of ancient Rome and Greece together, with various
magnificent objects of art. By dint of repeatedly seeing their effigies, one
becomes acquainted with the faces of these worthies. These tastes grow
upon one strangely at Rome, and there is a sort of elevation arising from
this silent intercourse with the ‘great of old.’
Proud names, who once the reins of empire held,
In arms who triumphed, or in arts excell’d,
Chiefs graced with scars, and prodigal of blood,
Stern patriots who for sacred freedom stood,
Just men by whom impartial laws were given,
And saints who taught, and led the way to heaven.
Tickell.
There has been a wrangle about the Borghese Gardens which the
Prince ordered to be shut up; the Government remonstrated, and a
correspondence ensued which ended in their being reopened to the public,
whom he has no right to exclude. Paul V. gave the Borghese Gardens to his
nephew (Aldobrandini) with a condition that they should always be open to
the public, which they have been from then till now. They were a part of the
Cenci property, which was immense, and confiscated by an enormous piece
of injustice.

April 3rd, 1830

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SIGHTS OF ROME Went on Thursday to Lady Mary Deerhurst’s and the
Duchess Torlonia’s, where all the English in Rome (or rather all the most
vulgar) were assembled. Yesterday morning to the Colonna Palace,
Museum of the Capitol, Baths of Diocletian, now Church of Santa Maria
degli Angeli, which are very remarkable because built on the baths, of
which it has preserved the form; San Pietro in Vincoli, San Bernardo, all
built on the site and amidst the ruins of Titus’s and Vespasian’s Baths; in
various parts the old pavement is preserved, which shows how magnificent
they must have been, for it is all of giallo, verd antique, porphyry, &c. To
the garden of the Maronite Convent to see the Coliseum, whence there is
the finest view of it in Rome. Then to the Coliseum, and walked all over the
ruins while a parcel of friars with covered faces were chanting and praying
at each of the altars in succession round the circle below (called the Via
Crucis).
I called yesterday morning on M. de la Ferronays, the French
Ambassador, who was very civil and obliging. Dined in the evening with
Lord Haddington, Lovaine, Morier, Prince Gagarin the Russian Minister,
Cheney, and M. Dedel. After dinner George Hamilton came in and said that
Lady Northampton had died suddenly at five o’clock. I never saw her, but
they say she was a very good sort of woman, and remarkably clever, which
good sort of women seldom are. She had written a poem full of genius and
imagination. Lord Northampton was absent at a scavo he has forty miles
off.
There has been no rain here for two months, and the clouds of dust are
insupportable; as it is the town in Europe best supplied with water (there are
three aqueducts; the ancients had sixteen) so it is the worst watered. The
excavations which are going on (though languidly) are always producing
something. Two busts, said to be fine, were found the day before yesterday
at the Borghese Villa at Frascati.
I saw yesterday at San Pietro in Vincoli Michael Angelo’s famous
Moses. It may be very fine, but to my eye is merely a colossal statue; the
two horns are meant to represent rays of light; but how can rays of light be
represented in marble, any more than the breath? It is impossible to make
marble imitate that which is impalpable. The beard is ropy and unnatural; it
is, however, an imposing sort of figure. But I am more sensible to painting

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than to sculpture. I delight in almost everything of Domenichino’s, who is
only inferior (if inferior) to Raphael. As to Michael Angelo, he speaks a
language the unlearned do not understand; his merit, acknowledged to be
transcendent as it is by all artists, cannot be questioned; but he must serve
as a model to form future excellence, and not be expected to produce
present delight, except to those who, by long study, have learnt to
comprehend and appreciate him.
Evening.—This morning to the tomb of the Scipios, Catacombs,
Cecilia Metella (from which I wonder they don’t take the battlements), the
Circus of Maxentius, Temple of Bacchus, the Fountain of Egeria, San
Stefano Rotondo, Temple of Pallas, Arches of Drusus and Dollabella, and
the Borghese Villa and Gardens. The ruins of the Gaetani Castle are rather
picturesque, but they spoil the tomb, which would be far finer without its
turrets. The Circus is as curious as anything I have seen, for it looks like a
fresh ruin. Old Torlonia furbished it up at his own expense, and brought to
light the inscription which proved it to be Maxentius’s instead of
Caracalla’s Circus. The remains are so perfect that it is easy to trace the
whole arrangement of the ancient games. Forsyth says very truly that the
Fountain of Egeria is a mere trough; but everybody praises the water, which
is delicious, and it falls with a murmur which invites to idleness and
contemplation. This fountain has been beautifully sung, but it is a miserable
ruin, ill deserving of such strains.
In vallum Egeriæ descendimus et speluncas
Dissimiles veris—quanto præstantius esset
Numen aquæ, viridi si margine clauderet undas
Herba, nec ingenuum violarent marmora tophum.
Juvenal.
A little wood of firs, and pines, and ilexes about thirty or forty years
old is pointed out as the grove in which Numa THE SISTINE CHAPEL used to meet
the nymph. In all the views on one side Soracte is a striking object, as it
From out the plain
Heaves like a long-swept wave about to break
And on the curl hangs pausing.

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I like this side of Rome, where the aqueducts stride over the
Campagna, and the ruins of the mighty Claudian tower over the pigmy
arches of the Pope, like the genius of ancient over that of modern Rome.
The Borghese is the beau idéal of a villa; lofty, spacious apartments,
adorned with statues, busts, and marbles, painting and gilding, and
magnificent gardens; but deserted by its owner, who has only been there
once in the last thirty years, and untenable in the summer from malaria,
which is very unaccountable, for it is close to Rome, high, and full of trees;
but nobody knows anything about the malaria. The Gardens are the
fashionable lounge, but after June nobody can walk there. Though the
Prince never comes here he has just bought a large piece of ground between
the Porta del Popolo and the Gardens, and is making a handsome entrance,
has already built gates and some ugly Egyptian imitations, and is making a
waterfall. I dined with Lady William Russell, and set off to go to Queen
Hortense in the evening, but found so few carriages in the court that we
would not go in.

April 4th, 1830
To the Sistine Chapel for the ceremonies of Palm Sunday; we got into
the body of the chapel, not without difficulty; but we saw M. de la
Ferronays in his box, and he let us in (Morier and me). It was only on a
third attempt I could get there, for twice the Papal halberdiers thrust me
back, and I find since it is lucky they did not do worse; for upon some
occasion one of them knocked a cardinal’s eye out, and when he found who
he was, begged his pardon, and said he had taken him for a bishop. Here I
had a fine opportunity of seeing the frescoes, but they are covered with dirt,
the ‘Last Judgment’ neither distinguishable nor intelligible to me. The
figures on the ceiling and walls are very grand even to my ignorance. The
music (all vocal) beautiful, the service harmoniously chanted, and the
responsive bursts of the chorus sublime. The cardinals appeared a wretched
set of old twaddlers, all but about three in extreme decrepitude—
Odescalchi, who is young and a good preacher, Gregorio, Capellari
[afterwards Pope Gregory XVI.]. On seeing them, and knowing that the
sovereign is elected by and from them, nobody can wonder that the country
is so miserably governed. These old creatures, on the demise of a Pope, are

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as full of ambition and intrigue as in the high and palmy days of the Papal
power. Rome and its territory are certainly worth possessing, though the
Pontifical authority is so shorn of its beams; but the fact is that the man who
is elected does not always govern the country,[15] and he is condemned to a
life of privation and seclusion. An able or influential cardinal is seldom
elected. The parties in the Conclave usually end by a compromise, and
agree to elect some cardinal without weight or influence, and there are not
now any Sixtus the Fifths to make such an arrangement hazardous. Austria,
Spain, and France have all vetos, and Portugal claims and exercises one
when she can. To this degradation Rome is now obliged to submit. The
most influential of the cardinals is Albani.[16] At the last election the Papal
crown was offered to Cardinal Caprara, but Albani stipulated that he should
make him Secretary of State; Caprara refused to promise, and Albani
procured the election of the present Pope (who did not desire or expect the
elevation), became Secretary of State A DEAD CARDINAL (being eighty), and
governs the country. He is rich and stingy. The great Powers still watch the
proceedings of the Conclave with jealousy; and though it is difficult to
conceive how the Pope can assist any one of them to the detriment of
another, an Ambassador will put his veto upon any cardinal whom he thinks
unfavourable to his nation; this produces all sorts of trickery, for when the
Conclave want to elect a man who is obnoxious to Austria, for example,
they choose another whom they think is equally so (but whom they do not
really wish to elect), that the veto may be expended upon him, for each
Government has one veto only. The last veto absolutely put was on Cardinal
——, who was elected on the death of Pius VII. He had behaved very
rudely to the Empress Maria Louisa when she took refuge in the north of
Italy after the downfall of Napoleon, thinking it was a good moment to
bully the abdicated Emperor’s wife. She complained to her father, who
promised her the Cardinal never should be Pope. He was a young and
ambitious man, and the veto killed him with vexation and disappointment.
[15] This, from what I have heard since, was not true of the last Pope, Leo XII., who was an
odious, tyrannical bigot, but a man of activity, talent, and strength of mind, a good man of business,
and his own Minister. He was detested here, and there are many stories of his violent exertions of
authority. He was a sort of bastard Sixtus V., but at an immense distance from that great man,
‘following him of old, with steps unequal.’ He used, however, to interfere with the private
transactions of society, and banish and imprison people, even of high rank, for immorality.
[16] Albani holds the Austrian veto, and is supported by her authority. But I have heard that
since Clement XI., who was an Albani, there has always been a powerful Albani faction in the

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Conclave. This cardinal is enormously rich and the head of his house. The Duke of Modena is his
nephew, and it is generally thought will be his heir.

Went and walked about St. Peter’s, and was surprised to find how very
little longer it is than St. Paul’s. To the Farnese Palace, built by Paul III. out
of the ruins of the Coliseum, which now, with all the Farnese property,
belongs to the King of Naples, and is consequently going to decay. It got
into his hands by the marriage of a King of Naples with the last heiress of
the house of Farnese. The Neapolitan property here consists of the Farnese
and Farnesina Palaces, the Orti Farnesiani, and the Villa Madama, all in a
wretched state; and the Orti, in which there are probably great remains, they
will not allow to be excavated. Many of the fine things are gone to Naples,
but a few remain, most of which came out of the Thermæ of Caracalla, and
originally from the Villa of Adrian. These two, principally the one through
the other, have been the great mines from which the existing treasures of art
were drawn. The frescoes in this palace are beautiful—a gallery by Annibal
and Agostino Caracci, with a few pictures by Domenichino, Guido, and
Lanfranco. Annibal Caracci’s are as fine as any I have seen; also a little
cabinet picture painted entirely by Annibal, which is exquisite.
As we were going to this palace we drove by the Cancellaria (which
was likewise built out of the Coliseum), and heard by accident that a dead
cardinal (Somaglia) was lying in state there. Somaglia was Secretary of
State in Leo’s time. Having seen all the living cardinals, we thought we
might as well complete our view of the Sacred College with the dead one,
and went up. After a great deal of knocking we were admitted to a private
view half an hour before the public was let in. He had been embalmed, and
lay on a bed under a canopy on an inclined plane, full dressed in cardinal’s
robes, new shoes on, his face and hands uncovered, the former looking very
fresh (I believe he was rouged), his fingers black, but on one of them was
an emerald ring, candles burning before the bed, and the window curtains
drawn. He was 87 years old, but did not look so much, and had a healthier
appearance in death than half the old walking mummies we had seen with
palms in their hands in the morning.
Took a look at Pasquin, who had nothing but advertisements pasted
upon him. I had seen Marphorius in the Capitol; there has long been an end
to the witty dialogues of the days of Sixtus V., so quaintly told by Leti; they
are so little ‘birds of a feather’ (for Pasquin is a mutilated fragment,

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Marphorius a colossal statue of the ocean) that, residing as they did at
different parts of the town, it is difficult to understand how they ever came
to converse with each other at all. I remember one of the best of his stories.
Sixtus V. made his sister a princess, and she had been a washerwoman. The
next day Pasquin appeared with a dirty shirt on. Marphorius asks him ‘why
he wears such foul linen;’ and he answers ‘that his washerwoman has been
made a princess, and he can’t get it washed.’
To the Farnesina: Raphael’s frescoes, the famous Galatea, and the great
head which Michael Angelo painted on the wall, as it is said as a hint to
Raphael that he was too minute. There it is just as he left it. Here Raphael
painted the Transfiguration, and here the Fornarina was shut up with
POMPEY’S STATUE him that he might not run away from his work. It might be
thought that to shut up his mistress with him was not the way to keep him to
his work. Be that as it may, the plan was a good one which produced these
frescoes and the Transfiguration.
I very nearly forgot to mention the Palazzo Spada, where we went to
see the famous statue of Pompey, which was found on the spot where the
Senate House formerly stood, and which is (as certainly as these things can
be certain) the identical statue at the foot of which Cæsar fell.
Muffling his face within his robe
Ev’n at the base of Pompey’s statue,
Which all the while ran blood, great Cæsar fell.
People doubt this statue, because it is not like his busts. There is
certainly no resemblance to the bust I have seen, which represents Pompey
as a fat, vulgar-looking man with a great double chin. It is impossible for
the coldest imagination to look at this statue without interest, for it calls up
a host of recollections and associations, standing before you unchanged
from the hour when Cæsar folded his robe round him and ‘consented to
death’ at its base. Those who cannot feel this had better not come to Rome.
Cardinal Spada was Secretary of State when this statue was found, and
Julius III. (Giocchi del Monti, 1550) made him a present of it.
The Temple of Bacchus is one of the most remarkable objects in
Rome; it is not in the least altered, merely turned into a Christian church,
and some saints, &c., painted on the walls. The mosaic ceiling and the

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pavement are just the same as when it was devoted to the worship of the
jolly god. The mosaics are beautiful, and perfect models of that sort of
ceiling. The pavement is covered with names and other scribblings cut out
upon it, all ancient Roman. Not a column has been removed or mutilated.
The fact is, Rome possesses several complete specimens of places of
heathen worship; this temple, the Pantheon, and San Stefano Rotondo are
perfect in the inside, the Pantheon within and without, Vesta and Fortuna
Virilis perfect on the outside.
In the Rospigliosi Palace is the famous Aurora of Guido. It is in
excellent preservation, and three artists were copying it in oils. One copy
was just finished, and admirably done, for which the painter asked forty
louis. I begin to like frescoes better than oils; there is such a life and
brilliancy about them. At the Quirinal, which was fitted up for the King of
Rome and inhabited by the Emperor of Austria, we saw everything but the
Pope’s apartments. It is a delightful house, and commands a charming view
of Rome. The Pope always goes there the last day of the Holy Week, and
stays there all the summer. Nothing can be more melancholy than his life as
described by the custode; he gets up very early, lives entirely alone and with
the greatest simplicity. In short, it shows what a strange thing ambition is,
which will sacrifice the substantial pleasures of life for the miserable
shadow of grandeur. Coming home we stopped by accident at the
Capuchins, and looked in to see Guido’s St. Michael, with which I was
disappointed till I looked at it from a distance. We then went to their
catacombs, the most curious place I ever saw. There are a series of chapels
in the cloisters, or rather compartments of one chapel, entirely fitted up with
human bones arranged symmetrically and with all sorts of devices. They are
laid out in niches, and each niche is occupied by the skeleton of a friar in
the robes of his order; a label is attached to it with the name of the skeleton
and the date of his death. Beneath are mounds of earth, each tenanted by a
dead friar with similar labels. When a friar dies, the oldest buried friar, or
rather his skeleton, is taken up and promoted to a niche, and the newly
defunct takes possession of his grave; and so they go on in succession. I
was so struck by this strange sight that, when I came home at night, I
ventured on the following description of it:—
THE CATACOMBS IN THE CAPUCHIN CONVENT.

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In yonder chapel’s melancholy shade,
Through which no wandering rays of daylight peep,
In strange and awful cemetery laid,
The ancient Fathers of the convent sleep.
A CAPUCHIN CHARNEL-HOUSE

No storied marble with monastic pride
Records the actions of their tranquil life,
Or tells how, fighting for their faith, they died
Unconquer’d martyrs of religious strife.
They are not laid in decent shroud and pall,
To wait, commingling with their kindred earth,
Th’ Archangel’s trumpet, whose dread blast shall call
The whole creation to a second birth.
But midst the mouldering relics of the dead
In shapes fantastic, which the brethren rear,
Profaned by heretic’s unhallowed tread,
The monkish skeletons erect appear.
The cowl is drawn each ghastly skull around,
Each fleshless form’s arrayed in sable vest,
About their hollow loins the cord is bound,
Like living Fathers of the Order drest.
And as the monk around this scene of gloom
The flick’ring lustre of his taper throws,
He says, ‘Such, stranger, is my destined tomb;
Here, and with these, shall be my last repose.’
At night I went with a party of English to see the Coliseum, but the
moon was as English as the party, and gave a faint and feeble light. Still,
with this dim moon it was inconceivably grand. The exquisite symmetry of
the building appears better, and its vast dimensions are more developed by
night. I long to see it with an Italian sky and full moon; but not with a
parcel of chattering girls, who only ‘flout the ruins grey.’

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April 9th, 1830
On Wednesday called on Bunsen, the Prussian Minister, who lives at
the top of the Tarpeian Rock, in a house commanding one of the best views
of Rome. He has devoted himself to the study of Roman history and
antiquities, and has the whole subject at his fingers’ ends. He is really
luminous, and his conversation equally amusing and instructive. He is about
to publish a book about ancient and modern Rome, which, from what I hear,
will be too minute and prolix. I then went to look at the Tarpeian Rock, but
the accumulation of earth has diminished its height—there is the Rock, but
in a very obscure hole. It was probably twice as high as it is now. I think it
is now about forty feet. Bunsen says that though the antiquaries pretend to
point out the course of the ancient triumphal way, he does not think it can
ever be ascertained. The only remains (only bits of foundations) of the
temple of the Capitoline Jupiter, to which the conquerors ascended, are in
the garden under his windows. He thinks the population of ancient Rome
may be taken at two millions at its most flourishing period. It is curious that
there are hardly any houses on the hills on which ancient Rome was built,
and that there were none formerly where modern Rome stands—no private
houses, only public buildings and temples.
To the Mamertine Prisons, probably not a stone of which has been
changed from the time that Jugurtha was starved in them. The tradition
about St. Peter and the well of course is not to be believed; but it is very
odd there should be a well there when there are so few in Rome. To the
Sistine Chapel with M. de la Ferronays, and very much disappointed with
the music, which was not so good as on Sunday; nor was the ceremony
accompanying the Miserere at all imposing. Yesterday morning to the
Sistine again; prodigious crowd, music moderate. As soon as it was over we
set off to see the benediction; and, after fighting, jostling, and squeezing
through an enormous crowd, we reached the loggia over one side of the
colonnade. The Piazza of St. Peter’s is so magnificent that the sight was of
necessity fine, but not near so much so as I had fancied. The people below
were not numerous or full of reverence. Till the Pope appears the bands
play and the bells ring, when suddenly there is a profound silence; the
feathers are seen waving in the balcony, and he is borne in on his throne; he
rises, stretches out his hands, blesses the people—urbi et orbi—and is
borne out again. A couple of indulgences were tossed out, for which there is

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a scramble, and so it ends. Off we scampered, and, by dint of tremendous
exertions, THE HOLY WEEK AT ROME reached the hall in which the feet of the
pilgrims are washed. The Pope could not attend, so the Cardinal Deacon
officiated. No ceremony can be less imposing, but none more clean.
Thirteen men are ranged on a bench—the thirteenth represents the angel
who once joined the party—dressed in new white caps, gowns, and shoes;
each holds out his foot in succession; an attendant pours a few drops of
water on it from a golden jug which another receives in a golden basin; the
cardinal wipes it with a towel, kisses the foot, and then gives the towel, a
nosegay, and a piece of money to the pilgrim—the whole thing takes up
about five minutes—certain prayers are said, and it is over. Then off we
scampered again through the long galleries of the Vatican to another hall
where the pilgrims dine. The arrangements for the accommodation of the
Ambassadors and strangers were so bad that all these passages were
successive scenes of uproar, scrambling, screaming, confusion, and danger,
and, considering that the ceremonies were all religious, really disgraceful.
We got with infinite difficulty to another box, raised aloft in the hall, and
saw a long table at which the thirteen pilgrims seated themselves; a cardinal
in the corner read some prayers, which nobody listened to, and another
handed the dishes to the pilgrims, who looked neither to the right nor the
left, but applied themselves with becoming gravity to the enjoyment of a
very substantial dinner. The whole hall was filled with people, all with their
hats on, chattering and jostling, and more like a ring of blacklegs and
blackguards at Tattersall’s than respectable company at a religious
ceremony in the palace of the Pope. There remained the cardinals’ dinner,
but I had had more than enough, and came away hot, jaded, and disgusted
with the whole affair.
In the evening I went to St. Peter’s, when I was amply recompensed
for the disappointment and bore of the morning. The church was crowded;
there was a Miserere in the chapel, which was divine, far more beautiful
than anything I have heard in the Sistine, and it was the more effective
because at the close it really was night. The lamps were extinguished at the
shrine of the Apostle, but one altar—the altar of the Holy Sepulchre—was
brilliantly illuminated. Presently the Grand Penitentiary, Cardinal Gregorio,
with his train entered, went and paid his devotions at this shrine, and then
seated himself on the chair of the Great Confessional, took a golden wand,

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and touched all those who knelt before him. Then came a procession of
pilgrims bearing muffled crosses; penitents with faces covered, in white,
with tapers and crosses; and one long procession of men headed by these
muffled figures, and another of women accompanied by ladies, a lady
walking between every two pilgrims. The cross in the procession of women
was carried by the Princess Orsini, one of the greatest ladies in Rome. They
attended them to the church (the Trinità delle Pellegrine) and washed their
feet and fed them. A real washing of dirty feet. Both the men and the
women seemed of the lowest class, but their appearance and dresses were
very picturesque. These processions entered St. Peter’s, walked all round
the church, knelt at the altars, and retired in the same order, filing along the
piazza till they were lost behind the arches of the colonnades. As the shades
of night fell upon the vast expanse of this wonderful building it became
really sublime; ‘the dim religious light’ glimmering from a distant altar, or
cast by the passing torches of the procession, the voices of the choir as they
sang the Miserere swelling from the chapel, which was veiled in dusk, and
with no light but that of the high taper half hid behind the altar, with the
crowds of figures assembled round the chapel moving about in the
obscurity of the aisles and columns, produced the most striking effect I ever
beheld. It was curious, interesting, and inspiring—little of mummery and
much of solemnity. The night here brings out fresh beauties, but of the most
majestic character. There is a colour in an Italian twilight that I have never
seen in England, so soft, and beautiful, and grey, and the moon rises ‘not as
in northern climes obscurely bright,’ but with far-spreading rays around her.
The figures, costume, and attitudes that you see in the THE GRAND PENITENTIARY
churches are wonderfully picturesque. I went afterwards to the Jesù, where
there was a tiresome service (the Tre Ore), and heard a Jesuit preaching
with much passion and emphasis, but could not understand a word he said.
So then I called on Cheney and saw his mother’s illustrations of Milton,
which are admirable, full of genius.
At night.—To St. Peter’s, where the Miserere was not so good as last
night. It was reported that the Pope was coming to St. Peter’s, and the Swiss
Guards lined the nave, but he did not arrive. Formerly, when the Cross was
illuminated, he used to come with all the cardinals to adore it. Now the
cardinals (or rather some of them) came and adored the Cross and the relics
belonging to the church, which were exhibited in succession from one of

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the balconies—a bit of the true Cross, Santa Veronica’s bloody
handkerchief, and others. There were, as the night before, several
fraternities of penitents, some in black, others in white or brown, all
disguised by long hoods, but there was to-night one of the most striking and
remarkable exhibitions I ever beheld.
The Grand Penitentiary, Cardinal Gregorio, again took his seat in the
chair of the Great Confessional. All those who have been absolved after
confession by their priest, and who present themselves before him, are
touched with his golden wand, in token of confirmation of the absolution,
and here again that quality which I have so often remarked as one of the
peculiar characteristics of the Catholic religion is very striking. Men and
women, beggars and princesses, present themselves indiscriminately; they
all kneel in a row, and he touches them in succession. In the churches there
seem to be no distinctions of rank; no one, however great or rich, is
contaminated by the approximation of poverty and rags. But to return to the
Confessional. There are some crimes of such enormity that absolution for
them can only be granted by the Pope himself, who delegates his power to
the Grand Penitentiary, and he receives such confessions in the chair in
which he was seated to-day. They are, however, very rare; but this evening,
after he had finished touching the people, a man, dressed like a peasant in a
loose brown frock, worsted stockings, and brogues, apparently of the lowest
order, dark, ill-looking, and squalid, approached the Confessional to reveal
some great crime. The confession was very long, so was the admonition of
the Cardinal which followed it. The appearance of the Cardinal is
particularly dignified and noble, and, as he bent down his head, joining it to
that of this ruffian-like figure, listening with extreme patience and attention,
and occasionally speaking to him with excessive earnestness, while the
whole surrounding multitude stood silently gazing at the scene, all
conscious that some great criminal was before them, but none knowing the
nature of the crime, it was impossible not to be deeply interested and
impressed with such a spectacle. Nothing could exceed the patience of the
Cardinal and the intensity with which he seemed absorbed in the tale of the
penitent. When it was over he wiped his face, as if he had been agitated by
what he heard. It was impossible not to feel that be the balance for or
against confession (which is a difficult question to decide, though I am
inclined to think the balance is against) it is productive of some good

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effects, and, though susceptible of enormous abuses, is a powerful
instrument of good when properly used. I have no doubt it is largely abused,
but it is the most powerful weapon of the Romish Church, the one, I
believe, by which it principally lives, moves, and has its being. That
penitence must be real, and of a nature to be worked upon, which can
induce a man to come forward in the face of multitudes and exhibit himself
as the perpetrator of some atrocious though unknown crime.
At night I went to the Trinità dei Pellegrini to see the pilgrims at
supper. The washing of the feet was over; a cardinal performs it with the
men, and ladies with the women, but it is no mere ceremony as at the
Vatican; they really do wash and scrub the dirty feet perhaps of about a
dozen of them each night. I saw the room in which they were just clearing
away the apparatus and collecting piles of dirty towels. The pilgrims sit on
benches; under their feet PILGRIMS AT SUPPER are a number of small wooden
tubs, with cocks to turn the water into them, and there they are washed.
Afterwards they go to supper, and then to bed. The men sup in a very long
hall—most curious figures, and natives of half the world. The Cardinal
Camerlengo[17] says grace and cuts the meat. They are waited upon by
gentlemen and priests, and have a very substantial meal. The women are
treated in the same way.[18] No men are admitted to their hall, but we
contrived to get to the door and saw it all. The Princess Orsini and a number
of Roman ladies were there (who had been washing feet) with aprons on,
waiting upon them at supper. Their dormitories were spacious, clean, and
sweet, though the beds were crowded together. The pilgrims are kept there
from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, when they are dismissed. Their
numbers are generally about 250 or 300. The funds of the establishment are
supplied by private subscriptions, legacies, and donations, the names of the
benefactors, with the amount of their contributions, being recorded on
boards hung up in the hall. There were a great many spectators, but the
whole ceremony was ordered with regularity and decency, which is more
than can be said for those of the Vatican. I walked to-night to St. Peter’s, to
look at it by moonlight. From every point of view it is magnificent; the
stillness of the night is broken only by the waters of the fountains, which
glitter in the moonbeams like sheets of molten silver. The obelisk, the
façade, the cupola, and the columns all contribute to the grandeur and
harmony of the scene: but everything at Rome should be seen at night. The

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Castle of St. Angelo, the Tiber, and the Bridge are all wonderfully fine in
these bright nights.
[17] Minister of the Interior and Chamberlain; but Gonsalvi deprived the Camerlengo of his
Ministerial functions, and joined them to the Secretaryship of State, and so it has since remained.
[18] I met Lady ——, a very tiresome woman, a day or two after, who had been to see this
ceremony, and was most devoutly edified by the humility and charity of the ladies. She told me a
very old woman put out her foot to her, thinking she was one of them, and begged her to be very
careful, as she had got some sores produced by the itch; but as it formed no part of her Protestant
duty, she turned her over to the Princess Orsini, who handled this horrid old leg with great
tenderness; and afterwards, when the same Princess was handed into the other apartment to see the
male pilgrims at supper, by an attendant in the livery which they all wore, this attendant turned out to
be Prince Corsini. It sounds very fine, but after all I don’t think there is much in it. It is ostentatious
charity and humility, and though rather disgusting and disagreeable, it is the fashion, and those who
do it are set up in a capital stock of piety and virtue. It may be both cause and effect of great moral
excellence, but I think it questionable.

April 10th, 1830
In the morning to St. John Lateran, where, as my laquais de place said,
‘converted Jews, or Turks, or Lutherans’ were baptised; got too late for the
baptism, which I believe is a farce regularly got up, but heard the High
Mass. The churches were crowded all this week with pilgrims, whose
appearance is always very picturesque. Went into the cloisters, and was
shown by the monk or priest (whichever he was) some very remarkable
articles that they possess—a bit of the column on which the cock stood
when he crowed after Peter’s three denials; a slab showing the exact height
of Jesus Christ, as he could just stand under it,[19] and two halves which had
once been a whole column, but which was broken when the veil of the
Temple was rent on the death of Christ. The column is adorned with
sculpture, which they say is Jewish, and was brought to Rome with the
Holy Stairs. Then to Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, where they were
performing High Mass, with many assistants and a full choir, but without a
congregation; there were not six people in the church. To Minerva Medica,
a questionable and uninteresting ruin, and besides falling to pieces. To the
Barberini Palace, where there is little besides the Cenci, which is worth
going any distance to see. To the Doria, a magnificent palace, with an
immense number of pictures, and some very fine ones, which I was hurried
through. To the Pyramid of Caius Cestius, which is in the middle of the wall

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of Aurelian, and forms the back of a very pretty Protestant burial ground,
the greatest number of those who have been buried there being of course
English. It is on the side of a hill with high, turreted walls behind it. There
are two rows of white marble tombs, whose diminutive proportions form a
contrast with the enormous sepulchre of PROTESTANT BURIAL GROUND the Roman.
Round some of the tombstones rose-trees and other shrubs have been
planted, and all but one adorned with epitaphs and inscriptions in Latin,
English, German, and Italian. That one is the tomb of the pretty Miss
Bathurst who was drowned in the Tiber. Her mother was to have returned to
Rome and supply the epitaph, but she has never come, and it has not even
her name inscribed upon it. I copied the following, which are apparently
intended for Latin verses, from one of the tombs—of Frederica Ursulina
Arabella de Montmorency, by her father, Colonel Raymond Henry de
Montmorency, whose feelings set quantity at defiance:—
Frederica quæ Claris fueram prælata puellis
Illa ego hoc brevi condita sum tumulo;
Cui formam pulcherrimam, charites tribuere decoram
Quam Deus cunctis artibus erudiit.
[19] He must have been just six feet high.

Clambered up Monte Testaccio, from which the view is beautiful, and
then went on to the ruins of San Paolo fuori le Mure. The church, which
was the finest in Rome except St. Peter’s, was entirely destroyed by fire;
but although it is near three miles from the gates, and not the least wanted,
and that there are hundreds of churches, half of which seldom or never have
congregations to fill them, they are already rebuilding this at an enormous
cost, and the priest told me, to my great disgust, that they had got all the
materials ready, and in ten years they expected the work to be finished.
There are plenty of fools found to contribute to the expense, the greatest
part of which, however, is supplied by the Government. It is to be built just
as it was before, but they cannot replace the enormous marble columns
which were its principal ornament. To a church to hear the Armenian Mass.
The priests arrived in splendid oriental dresses, but I did not stay it out.
Walked to the Borghese Gardens, the fine weather being something of
which no description can convey an idea, and in it the beauty of Rome and
its gardens and environs are equally indescribable. Groups of pilgrims in

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their odd dresses, with staves, and great bundles on their heads, were
lounging about, or lying under the trees. At night to the Coliseum (but the
moon never will shine properly), and back by the Forum and the Capitol.
The columns in the Forum look beautiful, but St. Peter’s gains at least as
much as the ancient ruins by the light of the moon. The views from
different hills, and sunset from the Pincian in such weather as this, and with
spring bursting in every direction, are things never to be forgotten.

Sunday.
High Mass in St. Peter’s, which was crowded. I walked about the
church to see the groups and the extraordinary and picturesque figures
moving through the vast space. They are to the last degree interesting: in
one place hundreds prostrate before an altar—pilgrims, soldiers, beggars,
ladies, gentlemen, old and young in every variety of attitude, costume, and
occupation. The benediction was much finer than on Thursday, the day
magnificent, the whole piazza filled with a countless multitude, all in their
holiday dresses, and carriages in the back-ground to the very end. The
troops forming a brilliant square in the middle, the immense population and
variety of costume, the weather, and the glorious locality certainly made as
fine a spectacle as can possibly be seen. The Pope is dressed in white, with
the triple crown on his head; two great fans of feathers, exactly like those of
the Great Mogul, are carried on each side of him. He sits aloft on his throne,
and is slowly borne to the front of the balcony. The moment he appears
there is a dead silence, and every head is bared. When he rises, the soldiers
all fall on their knees, and some, but only a few, of the spectators. The
distance is so great that he looks like a puppet, and you just see him move
his hands and make some signs. When he gives the blessing—the sign of
the cross—the cannon fires. He blesses the people twice, remains perhaps
five minutes in the balcony, and is carried out as he came in.
The numbers who come to the benediction are taken as a test of the
popularity of the Pope, though I suppose the weather has a good deal to do
with it. Leo XII. was very unpopular from his austerity, and particularly his
shutting ILLUMINATION OF ST. PETER’S up the wine shops. The first time he gave
the benediction after that measure hardly anybody came to be blessed.

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At night.—The illumination of St. Peter’s is as fine as I was told it was,
and that is saying everything. I saw it from the Pincian, from the windows
of the French Academy and Horace Vernet’s room. He is established in the
Villa Medici; a very lively little fellow, and making a great deal of money
as director of the Academy and by his paintings. His daughter is very pretty.
Here I met Savary, the Duc de Rovigo, a tall, stout, vulgar-looking man. We
were introduced and conversed on French politics. Afterwards drove down
to the piazza and round it. The illumination is more effective at a distance,
but I think it looks best from the entrance to the piazza and the Bridge of St.
Angelo; the blaze of light, the crowd, and the fountains, covered with a red
glare, made altogether the most splendid sight in the world. (One poor devil
was killed, and there is almost always some accident.) Eight hundred men
are employed in illuminating St. Peter’s; the first pale and subdued light,
which covers the whole church, is brought out by the darkness of night, the
little lamps being lit in the day-time. The blazing lights which succeed are
made by large pots of grease with wicks in them; there is one man to every
two lamps. On a given signal, each man touches his two lamps as quick as
possible, so that the whole building bursts into light at once by a process the
effect of which is quite magical—literally, as the Rejected Addresses say,
’starts into light, and makes the lighter start.’

April 12th, 1830
At night at Torlonia’s to see the girandola, which is as fine as fireworks
can be, but nothing will do after the illumination of St. Peter’s. All the
world was there at an assembly after the ceremony, at which I was
introduced to Don Michele Gaetani, said to be the cleverest man in Rome,
and I had a long conversation with Monsignore Spada, who is a young
layman with ecclesiastical rank and costume, and a judge. A Monsignore
holds ecclesiastical rank at Rome, as a Lady of the Bedchamber at St.
Petersburg holds military rank, where she is a major-general; there is no
other. He is free to marry, and I presume to do anything else, but he must
preserve a certain orthodox gravity of dress and conduct; he is a curious
nondescript, about an equal mixture of the cardinal and the dandy. This
Monsignore is a very clever, agreeable man, and gave me some information
about the administration of law in this country. There seems to be a good

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deal of laxity in it, for a man was condemned for stabbing another (with
premeditation) a little while ago to six months’ imprisonment, or more
perhaps; and having been George Hamilton’s laquais de place, his family
came to him and begged him to try and get him off. He applied to Spada,
and got the punishment commuted to some trifling imprisonment, and when
he got out he came, with all his family, to kiss Hamilton’s hand.

April 13th, 1830
Breakfasted with Bunsen at the Capitol; Lovaine, Morier, Haddington,
Hamilton, Kestner, Falck, G. Fitzclarence, Sir W. Gell, a little Italian
servant, and Mr. Hall, Bunsen’s brother-in-law. Haddington told the story of
Canning’s sending to Bagot a despatch in cipher, containing these lines:—
In matters of commerce the fault of the Dutch
Is giving too little and asking too much;
With equal protection the French are content:
So we’ll lay on Dutch bottoms just twenty per cent.
Chorus of Officers.—We’ll lay, &c.
Chorus of Douaniers.—Nous frapperons Falck avec Twenty
per cent.
He received the despatch at dinner, and sent it to be deciphered. After
some hours they brought him word they did not know what to make of it,
for it seemed to be in verse, when he at once saw there was a joke.
Went to see the excavations in the Via Triumphalis and the Temple of
Concord, and heard Bunsen’s theory of the Forum. Bunsen gives different
names to the remains of the temples in the Forum from those which have
been usually given, and by which they are known, and on very plausible
grounds, drawn chiefly from accounts in different Roman authors and
peculiarities in the buildings themselves. The BUNSEN ON THE FORUM Temple of
Fortune he thinks was the Basilica of Augustus, and the Temple of Jupiter
Tonans the Temple of Saturn; but all his reasons I need not put down if I
could remember them, for are they not written in the voluminous work he is
going to publish in four or six volumes octavo?

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Bunsen’s history is rather curious. He was a poor German student
destined for the Church; came to Rome, and got employed by Niebuhr,
from whom he first got a taste for antiquities. The King of Prussia came to
Rome and saw him; he was struck with his knowledge and the character he
heard of him, and consulted him about a new Liturgy he wished to
introduce into Prussia. Bunsen gave him so much satisfaction in that matter,
as well as in some others which were entrusted to him, that on Niebuhr’s
return to Prussia he was appointed to succeed him, and has been at Rome
ever since—thirteen years. Some say he is not a profound man, and that his
speculations about the ruins are all wrong. He talks English, French, and
Italian like his own language.
The part of the triumphal road was discovered by accident in digging
for a drain; and an attempt is being made to procure the permission of the
Government to excavate all that can be found of it, and ascertain its exact
course. It was in the Temple of Concord that Cicero assembled the Senate
and pronounced one of his orations against Catiline. The building must have
been large and magnificent, from the remains now visible, which are of the
finest marble. The pavement is in a state of considerable preservation. Then
we went to the old Tabularium, standing on the Intermontium, an undoubted
work of the Republic. This was the place where the records of the Senate
were kept. It is very perfect. Nibby, the great authority here, differs,
however, about this place; the antiquaries are at daggers drawn upon the
subject of the ruins, remains, and discoveries. They have all different
systems, which they support with great vehemence and obstinacy, and
perhaps ingenuity, but the ignorant and curious traveller is only perplexed
with their noisy and discordant assertions. They will insist upon knowing
everything, whereas there are many things here which are so doubtful, that
they can only conjecture about them; but when once they have published a
theory they will not hear of its being erroneous, and oppose any fresh
discovery likely to throw discredit upon it. After his lecture in the Forum
we went to San Nicolo in Cercera, an old church built on three old temples,
or two and a prison, but not much to see. The prison of San Nicolo in
Cercera is said to be the scene of the story of the Roman daughter, which it
probably is not. Over the Bridge of Fabricius to the Basilica of Saint
Bartholomew and Temple of Esculapius; small remains, but curious; and
very pretty view of the Tiber and Temple of Vesta. To the Villa Lanti, a

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delicious villa belonging to Prince Borghese, who never goes there, and will
neither let nor lend it. One of the finest views of Rome is from the terrace,
and Julio Romano’s frescoes adorn the ceilings. When Raphael was
painting the Vatican, he and Julio Romano used to retire every night to the
Villa Lanti, and the ceilings are covered with frescoes painted by both of
them. Just below is a terrace, and on it a beautiful tree called Tasso’s Oak,
because under it he used to sit and compose when he lived in the Convent
of San Onofrio, which is close by, and where he died. This convent is
remarkably clean, airy, and spacious. In the library is a bust of Tasso, a
mask taken from his face just after he died; in the chapel his tomb.
And Tasso is their glory—
Hark to his strain and then survey his cell.
Byron.
In the cloister are some frescoes of the universal Domenichino. I like the
Convent of San Onofrio. To Santa Maria in Trastevere, a very fine church;
splendid ceiling with a Domenichino in the middle. Immense granite
columns of various orders taken from God knows what temples, and mosaic
floor rich to a degree. Large pieces of porphyry and verd antique eternally
trodden by the Trasteverine mob, and never even cleaned. It is a basilica,
and at the end is an SIGHTS OF ROME ancient stone chair, which, was evidently
the old justice-seat, though they of the Church do not know it.

April 14th, 1830
Set off early to make up an arrear of churches. First to Santa Maria
sopra Minerva, and lit upon the funeral of a cardinal (Bertazzoli), which I
was obliged to see instead of Michael Angelo’s Christ. All the cardinals
attended; the church hung with black and gold; guards, tapers, mob, &c.
Then to the SS. Apostoli, Araceli (built where the Citadel stood, and is a
corruption of Arx, but with a legend); a curious church enough, with some
fine frescoes of Pintoriccio, and the Chapel of the Virgin with hundreds of
ex voto’s hang round it, almost all wretched daubs of pictures, and
principally representing accidents in gigs, carriages, or carts, broken heads
or limbs. To Santa Anastasia, Santa Maria in Cosmedin, Santa Sabina. Santa
Maria in Cosmedin, or the Bocca della Verità, built in and on the ruins of an

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old temple (di Pudicizia), is one of the best worth seeing in Rome; the
columns, if freed from the modern church, would present as perfect a front
as the temples in the Forum. To Monte Aventino to see the view of Rome
and the Chapel of the Order of Malta, where Cardinal Zurla as Grand Prior
has a most agreeable residence. The garden contains immense orange-trees
and a very large palm. To San Gregorio to see the famous rival frescoes of
Guido and Domenichino, which are much impaired. I began by liking
Guido’s and ended by liking the other best. The view of the Palatine from
this convent is magnificent. To San Gregorio and San Paolo, and saw the
ruins, which must have belonged to the Coliseum, for the architecture is
exactly similar, and they have every appearance of having been the
Vivarium from their shape. To the Corsini Palace, containing one of the best
collections of pictures, of which the finest are two portraits of cardinals by
Raphael and Domenichino. The palace is very fine, and the villa joins it on
the opposite hill of the Janiculum, but both are affected by the malaria.
Then to the Vatican and saw all the frescoes and pictures; the collection of
pictures is very small, but they are all masterpieces. To the gallery below to
see the mosaics and the process of copying the great pictures. The coloured
bits are numbered, and though there are not above six or seven colours, the
sub-divisions of various shades amount to 18,000. This art is in a great
degree mechanical, but requires ingenuity, attention, and some knowledge
of painting. On the large pictures, such as those which are in St. Peter’s,
several men are employed at the same time, but on the lesser only one. It is
very tedious, requiring years to copy one of the largest size. All the pictures
in St. Peter’s are in mosaic, except one, and they are at work on one which
is to replace this single oil-piece. The studio appeared in good order, but
there were only two men at work, as the Government spends very little
money upon it at present. From one of the open galleries we (Morier and I)
saw a thunderstorm, with gusts of wind, flashes of lightning, and rain. It
was amazingly grand from that place as it swept over the city and made us
‘sharers in its fierce delight.’ Then to the Borghese Gardens, and back to
one of those sunsets from the Pincian which will long be remembered
among the smoke and fogs in which I am destined to live.

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CHAPTER IX.
Lake of Albano — Velletri — Naples — Rapid Travelling in
1830 — A Trial at Naples — Deciphering Manuscripts — Ball
at the Duchesse d’Eboli’s — Matteis’s Plot and Trial — Pompeii
— Taking the Veil — Pausilippo — Baiæ — La Cava —
Salerno — Pæstum — Lazaroni — Museum of Naples —
Grotto del Cane — The Camaldoli — Herculaneum — Vesuvius
— Sorrento — Miracle of St. Januarius — Astroni — Farewell
to Naples.

Velletri, April 15th, 1830
Left Rome at nine o’clock this morning; at Albano procured an ancient
rural cicerone, a boy, and two donkeys, and set out on the grand giro of the
place. The road over the Campagna is agreeable, because the prospect
roundabout is so fine, and the aqueducts stretching over the plain so grand.
After climbing up to the Capuchin Convent, close to which are the remains
of what is called Domitian’s Theatre, we came to the lake, which is
beautiful, but does not look large, and still less as if it had ever threatened
Rome with destruction. There is a road called the Upper Gallery, shaded by
magnificent ilexes, which leads to the Villa Barberini, a delicious garden,
once Clodius’s and afterwards part of Domitian’s Villa, containing many
remains of former magnificence. This villa was probably the scene of the
council described by Juvenal (Fourth Satire).
Misso proceres exire jubentur
Concilio, quos Albanam Dux magnus in arcem
Traxerat attonitos.
I could not make out that any excavations have ever been made here,
though they would be certain of finding marbles. The road passes along the

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hill which overhangs the margin of the lake to Castel Gandolfo, and thence
a path leads to the bottom, where are the Emissarium, the Nyphæum (called
the Baths of Diana), and a beautiful view of the lake, Monte Albano, and its
towns. There is nothing more curious than the Emissarium, built with a
solidity which has defied the effect of time, for it has never required
reparations, and performs its office still as it did more than 2,000 years ago
(393 years before the Christian era). Nothing is so incomprehensible as the
magnitude and grandeur of the works of the Republic before it had acquired
power, territory, or population. The Romans built as if they had an
instinctive prescience of future greatness, and not even the pressure of
immediate danger could induce them to sacrifice solidity to haste. After
wondering at their enterprise and industry we may go and admire their
subsequent luxury in the Baths of Diana, as the place is called, but which is
evidently a natural cave improved into a delicious retreat by some
inhabitant of one of the villas above. We mounted the hill and went by
another road (called the Lower Gallery, shaded by the finest ilexes, elms,
and oaks, which ‘high over-arch’d embower,’ and where there is one ilex
which twelve men can hardly embrace) to the Doria Villa, once Pompey’s
and likewise Domitian’s, who included both Clodius’s and Pompey’s in his
own. There are no remains here, but some arabesques in a sort of grotto,
which I suspect are modern. All their villas command views of the
Campagna, the sea, Rome, and the mountains. It is no wonder Hannibal was
deeply mortified when he looked down on Rome from these hills (the hills
at least close by called the Prati d’Annibale) at having twice just missed
taking it. Poetry and history contribute alike to the interest of this beautiful
scenery. We met an Englishman, a single bird who had lost his covey, and
had procured a guide who could not understand what he said. He wanted to
go to Albano, and the man was taking him to the Emissarium. We put him
right, but his fury in mixed Italian, French, and English was exceedingly
comical. It was unlucky that we met him at the top instead of the bottom of
the hill.
The road to Aricia, where Horace got such a bad dinner— ALBANO—
NAPLES

Egressum magnâ me excepit Aricia Româ
Hospitio modico—

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is beautiful, and close to Gensano we went to look at the Lake of Nemi,
which is very pretty, but not so grand as Albano. The peasantry are a fine
race in these parts, and we met many men driving carts or riding asses who
would not disgrace the most romantic group of banditti. The people were all
working in the open air, and seemed very gay. There were few beggars, and
not much rags and wretchedness.
Started from Velletri at six in the morning; went very quick over the
Pontine Marshes (which form an avenue of about twenty miles, quite
straight, shaded with trees, and with vegetation of remarkable luxuriance on
each side) to Terracina (Anxur), where we breakfasted in a room looking
upon the sea. The place is extremely pretty. Thence to Mola di Gaeta, which
is very beautiful, but where we did not stop; and, after a very tiresome
journey, got to Naples at two o’clock in the morning. Vesuvius was so
obliging as to emit some flames as we passed by, just to show us his
whereabouts. They were, however, his first and his last while I was at
Naples.

Naples, April 18th, 1830
I am disappointed with Naples. I looked for more life and gaiety, a
more delicious air, beautiful town, and picturesque lazaroni, more of Punch,
more smoke and flame from Vesuvius. It strikes me as less beautiful than
Genoa, but these are only first impressions. The Bay and the Villa Reale, a
garden along the sea, full of sweets and sea breezes and shade, are certainly
delightful. All the people seem anxious to cheat as much as they can, from
the master of the inn to the driver of the hackney-coach. At present I don’t
feel disposed to stay here, and when I have seen Pæstum, Pompeii, and the
environs I shall be glad to get back to Rome. Sir Henry Lushington said at
dinner yesterday he had seen at Naples a ‘Courier’ newspaper of that day
week, produced by Rothschild and brought by one of his couriers. I came
very fast, but was 236 hours on the road, including 20 hours’ stoppage. This
is 168 hours, which appears incredible, but ‘gold imp’d by Jews can
compass hardest things.’

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April 19th, 1830
I retract all I said about disappointment, for I have since seen Naples,
and it is the most beautiful and the gayest town in the world. Yesterday
morning with Morier I walked up to the Castle of St. Elmo and the Certosa;
went over the chapel, which is full of costly marbles, and fine pictures both
in oil and fresco, particularly one by Spagnolet as fine as any at Rome or
anywhere. Tasted the custode’s lachryma Christi, which, if it be as good of
the sort as he pretends, is middling stuff, but not bad with water. Saw all the
views, which are magnificent. Walked down to the Villa Reale, which was
crowded with people, and the Chiaja with carriages. Dined with Hill—half
English and half foreigners—and went to the Opera; a very indifferent
opera of Rossini, ill sung, called the ‘Siege of Corinth.’
This morning at half-past eight we went to the Court of Justice to hear
an extraordinary trial which excites great interest here. The proceedings of
the day happened to be very uninteresting, not that it made much difference,
for I could not understand a word anybody said, but I had an opportunity of
seeing the manner in which they conduct trials in this country, and the
behaviour of the judges, the counsel, and the prisoners. Nothing can be less
analogous than the proceedings here to those which prevail in our courts;
and although it is possible that ours might be better, it is not possible that
theirs could be worse.
I soon left the Court, and walked up the Strada di Toledo—the finest
and liveliest street in the world, I believe—crowded with people. An Italian
proverb says, ‘Quando Dio onnipotente è tristo, prende una finestra nella
Toledo.’ Then to the Museum, of which everything was shut but the library
and the papyri. The former contains 180,000 volumes, but is deficient in
modern (particularly foreign) books. They showed us the process of
deciphering the papyri, which is very ingenious. The manuscript (which is
like a piece of charcoal) is suspended by light strings in a sort of frame;
gum and goldbeater’s skin are applied to it as it is unrolled, MARQUIS DI GALLO’S
VILLA and, by extreme delicacy of touch, they contrive to unravel without
destroying a great deal of it, but probably they have been discouraged by
the small reward which has attended their exertions; for there are several
black-looking rolls which have never yet been touched, and very few men
at work. The gentlemen who explained to us the process said that Sir

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Humphrey Davy had attended them constantly, and had taken great pains to
contrive some better chemical process for the purpose, but without success.

April 20th, 1830
A delightful drive (made by Murat) to the Marquis di Gallo’s villa on
the Capo di Monte, which far surpasses all the villas I saw at Rome. The
entrance is about half a mile from the house, through a wood, one part of
which is a vineyard; the vines hanging in festoons from cherry trees, and
corn growing underneath. The house is not large, but convenient; a wide
terrace runs along the whole front of it with a white marble balustrade;
below this is a second terrace covered with rose-trees; below that a third,
planted with vines, and oranges, and myrtles. From the upper terrace the
view is beautiful. Naples lies beneath, and the Bay stretches beyond with
the opposite mountains, and all the towns and villages from Portici to
Sorrento. On the right the Castle of St. Elmo and the Certosa, and Vesuvius
on the left. There is a large wood on one side, cut into shady walks and laid
out with grottoes, and on the other a vineyard, through which there is also a
walk under a treillage of vines for nearly half a mile. The ground extremely
diversified, and presenting in every part of it views of the surrounding
country—
Umbrageous grots and caves
Of cool recess, o’er which the mantling vine
Lays forth her purple grape, and gently creeps
Luxuriant.
It is always let, and, till he went away, was occupied by Stackelberg, the
Russian Ambassador.
In the evening went to a ball at the Duchesse d’Eboli’s; very few
people, and hardly any English, and those not the best—only four, I think:
Sir Henry Lushington, the Consul; a Mr. Grieve, of whom I know nothing
but that his father was a physician at St. Petersburg, and that he killed his
brother at Eton by putting a cracker into his pocket on the 5th of November,
which set fire to other crackers and burnt him to death; Mr. Auldjo, the man
who made a very perilous ascent of Mont Blanc, of which he published a

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narrative; Mr. Arbuthnot, who levanted from Doncaster two years ago—but
most of the Italian women were there, and I was surprised at their beauty.
Acton, who introduced me to some of them, assured me that they were
models of conduct, which did not precisely tally with my preconceived
notions of Neapolitan society. They danced, but with no music but a
pianoforte. This is one of the few houses here which is habitually open, for
they have not the means of doing much in the way of society and gaiety;
they are poor, and the Government (the worst in the world) interferes. The
Duchesse d’Eboli is poor, but she was a beauty, and has had adventures of
various sorts.

April 21st, 1830
Dined with Keppel Craven yesterday; Acton, Morier, Duchesse
d’Eboli, and some other people.
The day was so disagreeable yesterday I could not go out—not cold,
but a hurricane and clouds of dust. The principal topic of conversation at
dinner was the trial, which goes on every day, has already lasted a month,
and is likely to last two or three more. The Code Napoléon is in force here,
so that there may probably be something like a certain and equal
administration of justice between man and man; but this is a Government
prosecution, and therefore exempted from ordinary rules. The history of this
trial exemplifies the state of both the law and the Government of this
country. The accused are five in number; the principal of them, Matteis, was
an intendente, or governor, of a province; 2nd, the advocate-general of the
province; 3rd, Matteis’s secretary; and 4th and 5th, two spies. These men
united in a conspiracy to destroy various persons who were obnoxious to
them in the province, some of them actuated by political motives, and
others in order to get possession of the property of their victims. The
bugbear of the Court is Carbonarism, and Matteis pretended that there was a
Carbonari plot on MATTEIS’S TRIAL foot, in which several persons were
implicated. He employed the spies to seduce the victims into some
imprudence of language or conduct, and then to inform against them; in this
way he apprehended various individuals, some of whom were tortured,
some imprisoned or sent to the galleys, and some put to death. These

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transactions took place eight or nine years ago, and such was the despotism
of this man and the terror he inspired, that no resistance was made to his
proceedings, or any appeal against them ever sent to Naples. At last one of
his own secretaries made some disclosures to Government, and the case
appeared so atrocious that it was thought necessary to institute an
immediate enquiry. The intendente was ordered to Naples, and
commissioners were sent to obtain evidence in the province and sift the
matter to the bottom. After much delay they made a report confirming the
first accusations and designating these five men as the criminals. As soon as
the matter was thus taken up, the public indignation burst forth, and a host
of witnesses who had been deterred by fear from opening their lips came
forward to depose against Matteis and his associates. They were arrested in
the year 1825 and thrown into prison, but owing to the difficulties and delay
which they contrived by their influence to interpose, and to the anomalous
character of the prosecution, five years elapsed before the proceedings
began. At length a royal order constituted a Court of Justice, composed of
all the judges of the Court of Cassation (about twenty), the highest tribunal
in the kingdom, and they have just been enjoined not to separate till the
final adjudication of the case. Although the offences with which the
criminals are charged are very different in degree, they are all arraigned
together; a host of witnesses are examined, each of whom tells a story or
makes a speech, and the evidence is accordingly very confused, now
affecting one and now another of them. They have counsel and the right of
addressing the Court themselves, which the intendente avails himself of
with such insolence that they are obliged to begin the proceedings of each
day by reading an order to the prisoners to behave themselves decently to
the Court. Their counsel are assigned by the Court, and it is not one of the
least extraordinary parts of this case that the advocate of Matteis is his
personal enemy, and a man whom he displaced from an office he once held
in the province. They say, however, that he defends him very fairly and
zealously. The day I was there the proceedings were uninteresting, but
yesterday they were very important. An officer was examined who had been
imprisoned and ill-treated in prison, and who deposed to various acts of
cruelty. They on their part hardly deny the facts, but attempt to justify them
by proving that the sufferers really were Carbonari, that other governors had
done the same thing, and that they were doing a service to the Government
by these pretended plots and consequent executions. Though their guilt is

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clear, it is by no means so clear that they will be condemned, or at least all
of them. The public indignation is so great that they must sacrifice some of
them, and the spies, it is said, will certainly be hanged. Matteis has interest
in the Court, but, as a majority of votes will decide his fate, it is most likely
he will be condemned.

April 22nd, 1830
Yesterday to Pompeii, far better worth seeing than anything else in
Italy. Who can look at other ruins after this? At Rome there are certain
places consecrated by recollections, but the imagination must be stirred up
to enjoy them; here you are actually in a Roman town. Shave off the upper
storey of any town, take out windows, doors, and furniture, and it will be as
Pompeii now is: it is marvellous. About one-fifth part of the town has been
excavated, and the last house found is the largest. It is said 1,000 men
would clear it in a year, and there are thirty at work. The road is a bed of
dust, and infested with blind beggars, each led by a boy. There are
habitations almost uninterruptedly along the road between Naples and
Pompeii, built apparently for no other reason than because they are exposed
to eruptions of the mountain, for any other part of the Bay would be just as
agreeable, and safe from that danger.
This morning we went to an Ursuline convent to see two TAKING THE VEIL
girls take the veil. The ceremony was neither imposing, nor interesting, nor
affecting, nor such as I expected. I believe all this would have been the case
had it been the black veil, but it was the white unfortunately. I thought they
would be dressed splendidly, have their hair cut off in the church, be
divested (in the convent) of their finery, and reappear to take leave of their
relations in the habit of the order. Not at all. I went with A. Hill and Legge,
who had got tickets from the brother of one of the sposine; we were
admitted to the grating, an apartment about ten feet long by five wide, with
a very thick double grating, behind which some of the nuns appeared and
chattered. A turning box supplied coffee and cakes to the company. I went
to the door of the parlour (which was open), but they would not admit me.
There the ladies were received, and the nuns and novices were laughing and
talking and doing the honours. Their dress was not ugly—black, white, and

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a yellow veil. The chapel was adorned with gold brocade, and blue and
silver hangings, flowers, tapers; a good orchestra, and two or three tolerable
voices. It was as full as it could hold, and soldiers were distributed about to
keep order; even by the altar four stood with fixed bayonets, who when the
Host was raised presented arms—a military salute to the Real Presence!
The brother of one of the girls did the honours of the chapel, placing the
ladies and bustling about for chairs, which all the time the ceremony was
going on were handed over heads and bonnets, to the great danger of the
latter. It was impossible not to be struck with this man’s gaiety and sang-
froid on the occasion, but he is used to it, for this was the fourth sister he
has buried here. When the chapel was well crammed the sposine appeared,
each with two marraines. A table and six chairs were placed opposite the
altar; on the table were two trays, each containing a Prayer Book, a pocket-
handkerchief, and a white veil. The girls (who were very young, and one of
them rather pretty) were dressed in long black robes like dressing-gowns,
their hair curled, hanging down their backs and slightly powdered. On the
top of their heads were little crowns of blue, studded with silver or
diamonds. The ladies attending them (one of whom was Princess Fondi and
another Princess Bressano) were very smart, and all the people in the chapel
were dressed as for a ball. There was a priest at the table to tell the girls
what to do. High Mass was performed, then a long sermon was delivered by
a priest who spoke very fluently, but with a strange twang and in a very odd
style, continually apostrophising the two girls by name, comparing them to
olives and other fruit, to candelabri, and desiring them to keep themselves
pure that ‘they might go as virgins into the chamber of their beloved.’ When
the Sacrament was administered the ladies took the crowns off the girls,
who were like automata all the time, threw the white veils over them, and
led them to the altar, where the Sacrament was administered to them; then
they were led back to their seats, the veils taken off and the crowns
replaced. After a short interval they were again led to the altar, where, on
their knees, their profession was read to them; in this they are made to
renounce the world and their parents; but at this part, which is at the end, a
murmuring noise is made by the four ladies who kneel with them at the
altar, that the words may not be heard, being thought too heart-rending to
the parents; then they are led out and taken into the convent, and the
ceremony ends. The girls did not seem the least affected, but very serious;
the rest of the party appeared to consider it as a fête, and smirked and

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gossiped; only the father of one of them, an old man, looked as if he felt it.
The brother told me his sister was eighteen; that she would be a nun, and
that they had done all they could to dissuade her. It is a rigid order, but there
is a still more rigid rule within the convent. Those nuns who embrace it are
for ever cut off from any sort of communication with the world, and can
never again see or correspond with their own family. They cannot enter into
this last seclusion without the consent of their parents, which another of this
man’s four sisters is now soliciting.
We afterwards drove through the Grotto of Pausilippo, that infernal
grotto which one must pass through to get BAIÆ out of Naples on one side; it
is a source of danger, and the ancient account of it is not the least
exaggerated:—

Nihil isto carcere longius, nihil illis faucibus obscurius, quo
nobis præstant non ut per tenebras videamus sed ut ipsas.

There are a few glimmering lamps always obscured by dust, and it is
never hardly light enough to avoid danger except at night; in the middle it is
pitch dark.
Then round the Strada Nuova, Murat’s delightful creation, and walked
in the Villa Reale, where I found Acton, who had been all the morning at
the trial, which was very interesting. A woman was examined, who deposed
that her husband was thrown into prison and ill-treated by Matteis because
he would not give some false evidence that he required of him; that she
went to Matteis and entreated him to release him, and that he told her he
would if she would bring her daughter to him, which she refused, and he
was put to death. On this evidence being given, the examining judge
dropped the paper, and a murmur of horror ran through the audience. The
accused attacked the witness and charged her with perjury, and said he was
ill in bed at the time alluded to. The woman retorted, ‘Canaglia, tu sai ch’
egli è vero,’ and there was a debate between the counsel on either side, and
witnesses were called who proved that he was in good health at the time.
They think the evidence of to-day and the apparent disposition of the judges
must hang him.

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Salerno, April 24th, 1830
Here Morier and I are going to pass the night on our way to Pæstum,
and as he is gone to bed (at half-past eight) I must write. Yesterday morning
Morier, St. John, Lady Isabella, and I went to Pozzuoli, embarked in a
wretched boat to make the giro of Baiæ.
Ante bonam Venerem gelidæ per litora Baiæ
Illa natare lacu cum lampade jussit amorem,
Dura natat, algentes cecidit scintilla per undas,
Hinc vapor ussit aquas, quicumque natavit, amavit.
Venus bade Cupid on fair Baiæ’s side
Plunge with his torch into the glassy tide;
As the boy swam the sparks of mischief flew
And fell in showers upon the liquid blue;
Hence all who venture on that shore to lave
Emerge love-stricken from the treacherous wave.
I was disappointed with the country, which is bare and uninteresting;
but the line of coast, with the various bays and promontories and the
circumjacent islands, is extremely agreeable, and the Bay of Baiæ, with the
Temple of Venus, delightful. The Temple of Mercury is also worth seeing.
The Cave of the Sybil, Lake Avernus, and Temple of Apollo are not worth
seeing, but as they are celebrated by Virgil they must be visited, though the
embellishments of Virgil’s imagination and the lapse of time have made
disappointment inevitable. Nature indeed no longer presents the same
aspect; for there is a mountain more (Monte Nuovo) and a wood less about
the lake than in Virgil’s time. We found two ridiculous parties there, one
English, the other French, the latter the most numerous and chattering, and
mounted on asses, so as to make a long cavalcade. There was a fat old
gentleman just coming puffing out of the cave, and calling with delight to
his ladies, ‘Ah, mesdames, êtes-vous noires?’ as they certainly were, for all
one gets in the cave is a blackened face from the torches. There was another
gaunt figure of the party in a fur cap, who was playing the flute—
His reedy pipe with music fills,
To charm the God who loves the hills
And rich Arcadian scenery.

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We landed from our boat in various places, but declined going down
the Cento Camerelle to have a second face-blackening. All the ruins, said to
be of Cæsar’s and Marius’s Villas, Agrippina’s Tomb, Caligula’s Bridge,
&c., may be anything; they are nothing but shapeless fragments, only on a
rock I saw a bit of marble or stucco in what they call Cæsar’s Villa. The
Stygian Lake presented no horrors, nor the Elysian Fields any delights; the
former is a great round piece of water, and the latter are very common-
looking vineyards. When well wooded, which in the time of the EXCAVATIONS
AT POMPEII Romans it was, this coast must have been a most delicious and
luxurious retreat, so sequestered and sheltered, such a calm sea, and soft
breezes.
Mira quies pelagi; ponunt hic lassa furorem
Æquora, et insani spirant clementius Austri.
We went up to look at the old harbour of Misenum, where, instead of a
Roman fleet, were a few fishing-boats, and walked back through fields in
which spring was bursting forth through endless varieties of cultivation—
figs, mulberries, and cherry trees, with festoons of vines hanging from tree
to tree, and corn, peas, and beans springing up underneath.
Our boatmen, as we rowed back, were very proud of their English, and
kept on saying ‘Pull away,’ ‘Now boys,’ and other phrases they have picked
up from our sailors. This morning we set off to come here [to Salerno] with
Vetturino horses; the dust intolerable; stopped at Pompeii, and walked half
round the walls and to the Amphitheatre. All the ground (now covered with
vineyards) belongs to the King (for Murat bought it); the profusion and
brilliancy of the wild flowers make it quite a garden—
Flowers worthy of Paradise, which not nice art
In beds and curious knots, but nature boon
Pours forth profuse on hill, and dale, and plain.
If Murat had continued on the throne two or three years longer, the
whole town would have been excavated. He, and still more the Queen, took
great interest in it, and they both went there frequently. She used to see the
houses excavated, and one day they found the skeleton of a woman with
gold bracelets and earrings, which were brought to her, and she put them on
herself directly. In their time 800 men and 50 cars were at work; now there

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are 40 men and 6 cars. The expense of 800 men and 50 cars would be about
13,000ℓ. a year, but these men will spend nothing. A car costs a scudo, and
a man four carlins, a day. (A scudo is ten carlins, a carlin fourpence.) The
Royal Family seldom or never come here; the Duke of Calabria has been
once. The Amphitheatre, though not to be compared in size or beauty with
the Coliseum, is much more perfect. The road here is beautiful, particularly
about La Cava. I walked up to the Convent of the Trinità; it stands on the
brink of a deep ravine in the middle of the hills, which are tossed into a
hundred different shapes and covered with foliage—a magnificent situation.
The convent is very large, and well kept; it contains fifty monks, who were
most of them walking about the road. Here were all the raw materials
requisite for a romance—a splendid setting sun, mountains, convent, flock
of goats, evening bell, friars, and peasants. Arrived here, delighted with the
outside and disgusted with the inside of the town; but the Bay of Salerno is
beautiful, the place gay and populous, all staring at a fire-balloon which
was just ascending, and soon after came down in the sea. The inns
execrable. We got into one at last, in which there is a wide terrace looking
over the sea, and there we ordered our dinner to be laid; but we were soon
driven in, not by the cold, but by the flaring of our tallow candles.
We were obliged to write our names down for the police, who are very
busy and inquisitive. One man, whose name was just before mine, had
added this poetical encomium on the inn:—

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I mention by way of guidanza
For those who are going to Pæstum,
They’ll find at this inn, the ‘Speranza,’
A good place to eat and to rest ’em.
I could not concur with this poet, so I added to my name this
contradiction:—
On the ‘Hope’s’ being such a good treat
We must both put our positive vetos;
We not only got nothing to eat,
But ourselves were ate up by mosquitos.

Naples, April 25th, 1830
Started at four o’clock in the morning from Salerno, and got to Pæstum
at eight. Tormented to death by beggars and ciceroni (often both characters
in one), for in Italy everybody who shows a stranger about is a PÆSTUM
cicerone, from Professor Nibby down to a Calabrian peasant. There is little
beauty in the scenery of Pæstum, but the temples amply repay the trouble of
the journey. I agree with Forsyth that they are the most impressive
monuments I have ever seen. The famed roses of Pæstum have disappeared,
but there are thousands of lizards ‘nunc virides etiam occultant spineta
lacertos.’ No excavations have ever been made here, but they talk of
excavating. There were some fine Etruscan vases found in a tomb at
Pæstum, which we did not see. The brute of a custode knew nothing of it,
nor should I if I had not seen the model in the Museum afterwards.
Thousands of Etruscan vases may be had for digging; they are found in all
the tombs. The peasants have heaps of little carved images of terra cotta and
coins, which they offer for sale. I believed they were fabricated, but a man I
met there showed me two or three that he had turned up with his stick, so
that they may be genuine. What treasures Naples possesses, and how
unworthy she is of them! Pæstum[1] long neglected, and Pompeii hardly
touched! At Rome they are always digging and doing something, and
though the Papal Government is neither active nor rich, I do believe they
would not let this town (Pompeii, I mean) remain buried when a few

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thousand pounds would bring it all to light. There seem to be no habitations
near Pæstum, but there is a church, which was well attended, for the
peasants were on their knees all round it; and while we were breakfasting
(in a manger with the horses out in the air) they came out, strange-looking
figures, rude, uncouth, and sunburnt, and without any of the finery which
they generally wear on a Sunday.
[1] The authorities of course can’t agree when Pæstum was built, and by whom, or whether one
of the temples (the largest) was a temple or a basilica. The perfect state of these temples, particularly
that called of Neptune, is the more remarkable because there are scarcely any vestiges of other
buildings. Morier thought them inferior to the temples at Athens, but so they may well be; the
Athenian temples are built of white marble from the Pentelic quarries, and highly ornamented by
Phidias.

Naples, April 26th, 1830
To the Museum; met the Dalbergs and Prince and Princess
Aldobrandini, a good-looking daughter and two sons. They will have all
Prince Borghese’s estate. I only went into the Pompeii and Herculaneum
part of the collections.
The lazaroni are very amusing. This morning four of them stripped
stark naked under my window, put off in a boat, and thirty yards from the
shore fished for cockle fish, which they do by diving like ducks, throwing
their feet up in the air as the ducks do their tails. The creatures are perfectly
amphibious; they don’t care who sees them, and their forms are perfect.
Then there are little lazaroni who ape the big ones. Met a christening this
morning, and then a funeral. The wet nurse, full dressed, was carried in a
sedan chair down the middle of the street, and the child, dressed also, held
out of the window in her arms, and so she was going to church. The funeral
was a priest’s—a long file of penitents in white, carrying torches, a bier
covered with crimson and gold, and the priest dressed in robes and exposed
upon it, a ghastly sight, with a chalice in his hand and a book at his feet,
other priests following, the cross borne before him. When young girls are
buried in this way, they are gaily dressed with chaplets of flowers, a flower
in the mouth, and flowers at their feet.

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Rode to the race-course and round the hills; such views and such an
evening! At seven o’clock I could see the houses at Sorrento, nineteen miles
off on the other side of the Bay. Dined with Acton; none but English. In the
evening went to Toledo, the Spanish Ambassador’s. The Duc de Dalberg
talked of an association to excavate at Calabria and Apulia. The
Government reserves four places—Pompeii, Pæstum, Stabiæ, Herculaneum
—for its own use, and anybody may excavate elsewhere who will be at the
trouble and expense.

April 29th, 1830
On Tuesday again to the Museum and the King’s Palace; rather fine,
good house, very ridiculous pictures of the royal families of Naples and
Spain. The Duchess of Floridia’s apartment (old Ferdinand’s wife) is
delightful; the rooms are furnished with blue satin and white silk, opening
upon a terrace covered with orange-trees, ANTIQUE PAINTING flowers, and
shaded walks, and looks over the Bay. A few fine pictures, but not many.
There is a bath, built after one of those at Pompeii.
From what I saw at the Museum, I see no reason to doubt that the
ancients were as excellent in painting as in sculpture; there are some very
exquisite paintings taken from Pompeii. Then we are not to believe that the
best have been found, or that a provincial town contained the finest
specimens of the art. Painted on walls, they appear deficient in light and
shade, but the drawing and expression, and sometimes the colouring
(allowing for spoiling), are very good. There are some Cupids playing at
games, and driving chariots, very like the Julio Romanos in the Lanti Villa
at Rome, which indeed were borrowed from the ancient frescoes discovered
in the Baths of Titus. The bronzes taken out of Herculaneum and Pompeii
are very interesting, because they display the whole domestic economy of
the ancients, and their excellent taste in furniture, sacrificial instruments,
&c., but there is nothing particularly curious in the fact of their pots and
pans being like our pots and pans, for if they were to boil and stew they
could not well have performed those operations with a different kind of
utensils. However, all the people marvel at them; they seem to think the
Romans must have been beings of a different organisation, and that

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everything that is not dissimilar is strange. What is really curious is a
surgical instrument which was lately found, exactly similar to one invented
thirty years ago in France. The lava would not touch bronze; the iron was
always encrusted and spoilt, but the bronze things all look like new.

May 2nd, 1830
Went to the Lake of Agnano and the Grotto del Cane; very pretty lake,
evidently the crater of a volcano; saw the dog perform; a sight neither
interesting nor cruel; the dog did not mind it a bit, and the old woman must
make a fortune, for she had eight carlins for it. The grotto is very hot and
steaming; a torch goes out held near the ground, and when I put my face
down the steam from the earth went up my nose like salts. Virgil’s Tomb,
which is very picturesque, and from whence the common view of Naples is
taken; there has been plenty of discussion whether it really is Virgil’s tomb
or not. Forsyth seems to doubt it, with one of his off-hand flings at the
authority for its being so, a sort of ‘Who the Devil, I humbly beg to know, is
Donatus?’ but there is tradition in its favour, the fact of Virgil having been
buried here or hereabouts, and the honour being claimed by no other spot.
When there is probability it is unwise to be so very sceptical: take away
names, and what are the places themselves? Here not much, at Rome
nothing.

Thursday.
Went a long and most beautiful ride up to the Camaldoli, from which
the view extends over sea and land to an immense distance in every
direction.
Thus was this place
A happy rural seat of various views.
The convent was once very rich, but the French stripped all the
convents of their property, which they have never since recovered. It is
remarkably clean and spacious. Each monk has a house of his own

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containing two or three little rooms, and a little garden, and they only eat
together on particular days. The old man who took us about said he had
been there since he was eighteen, had been turned out by the French, but
came back as soon as he could, and had never regretted becoming a monk.
He showed me a bust of the founder of their order (I think San Romualdo),
and when I asked him how many years ago it was founded, he said,
‘Perhaps 2,000.’ I said when I became a monk I would go to that convent,
when he asked very seriously if I was going to be a monk. I said, ‘Not just
yet.’ ‘Very well,’ he said; ‘you must pay 120 ducats, and you can come
here.’ We went down a road cut for miles in the mountain, very narrow and
steep, through shady lanes, groves, and vineyards (with magnificent views),
through Pianura to Pozzuoli, entering by the old Roman road and Street of
Tombs. The columbaria in the Street of Tombs are the best worth seeing
ejus generis of any. Went to the Temple of Jupiter Serapis, of which there
are very curious remains. RUINS ABOUT NAPLES
Hard by the reverent ruins
Of a once glorious temple, reared to Jove,
Whose very rubbish (like the pitied fall
Of virtue, most unfortunate) yet bears
A deathless majesty, though now quite rased,
Hurl’d down by wrath and lust of impious kings,
So that where holy Flamens wont to sing
Sweet hymns to Heaven, there the daw and crow,
The ill-voiced raven, and still chattering pie
Send out ungrateful sounds.
Marston.
To the ruins of the Amphitheatre, from the top of which there is one of
the finest views I ever saw of the Bay of Baiæ and the islands; and then to
the Solfaterra. The ruins scattered about Naples (those at Pozzuoli, for
instance) are far more extensive than most of those at Rome, but partly
‘carent quia vate sacro,’ and partly because there are no well-known names
attached to them, the ground is not so holy, and little is said or thought
about them. If these temples were at Rome, what an uproar they would
cause! The Solfaterra is remarkable as a sort of link between the quick and
the dead volcanoes; it is considered extinct, but the earth is hot, the sulphur
strong, and at a particular spot, when a hole is made, it hisses and throws up

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little stones and ashes, and exhibits a sort of volcano in miniature, but the
surface of the crater is overgrown with vegetation. The road to Naples by
the convent of the Jesuits and Chapel of St. Januarius is the most beautiful I
ever saw, particularly towards sunset, when the colouring is so rich and
varied. It lies over a crest commanding a prospect of the mountains on one
side and the sea on the other.
Quid mille revolvam
Culmina visendique vices.

May 3rd, 1830
We sailed across the Bay to Resina, to see Herculaneum, the old and
new excavations. At the new there are only seven or eight men at work; the
old are hardly worth seeing. So much earth and cinders are mixed with the
lava in the new part, that they might excavate largely if they would spend
money enough; at present they have only excavated one or two houses, but
have found some bronzes and marbles. The houses are laid open, just like
those at Pompeii.
The next day Morier, Watson, and I set off to ascend Vesuvius; we rode
on donkeys from Salvatore’s house to the bottom of the last ascent, which
was rather less formidable than I expected, though fatiguing enough.
Another party went up at the same time: one man of that party, Watson, and
I walked up alone; the others were all lugged up. They take the bridles off
the donkeys and put them on the men; the luggee holds by this tackle and
the guide goes before him. After infinite puffing and perspiring, and resting
at every big stone, I reached the top in thirty-five minutes. It was very
provoking to see the facility with which the creatures who attended us
sprang up. There was one fellow with nothing on but a shirt and half a pair
of breeches, who walked the whole way from Resina with a basket on his
head full of wine, bread, and oranges, and while we were slipping, and
clambering, and toiling with immense difficulty he bounded up, with his
basket on his head, as straight as an arrow all the time, and bothering us to
drink when we had not breath to answer. I took three or four oranges, some
bread, and a bottle of wine of him at the top, and when I asked Salvatore
what I should pay him, he said two carlins (eightpence English). I gave him

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three (a shilling), and he was transported. It was a magnificent evening, and
the sunset from the top of Vesuvius (setting in the sea) a glorious sight—
For the sun,
Declined, was hastening now with prone career
To the ocean’s isles, and in th’ ascending scale
Of heaven the stars, that usher evening, rose.
The view, too, all round is very grand; the towns round the Bay appear so
clear, yet so minute. I had formed to myself a very different idea of the
crater, of which the dimensions are very deceitful; it is so much larger than
it appears. The bottom of the crater is flat, covered with masses of lava and
sulphur, but anybody may walk all about it. At one end stands what ASCENT OF
VESUVIUS looks like a little black hillock, from which smoke was rising, as it
was from various crevices in different parts; that little hillock is the crater
from which all eruptions burst. The mountain was provokingly still, and
only gave one low grumble and a very small emission of smoke and fire
while we were there; it has never been more tranquil. The descent is very
good fun, galloping down the cinders; you have only to take care not to
tumble over the stones; slipping is impossible. The whole ascent of the
mountain is interesting, particularly in that part which is like a great ocean
of lava, and where the guides point out the courses of the different
eruptions, all of which may be distinctly traced. We got to the Hermitage
just as it was dark; there was still a red tint round the western horizon, and
the islands were dimly shadowed out, while the course of the Bay was
marked by a thousand dancing lights. Salvatore has especial care of the
mountain under the orders of Government, to whom he is obliged to make a
daily report of its state, and he is as fond of it as a nurse of a favourite child,
or a trainer at Newmarket of his best race-horse, and delights in telling
anecdotes of old eruptions and phenomena, and of different travellers who
have ascended it.
Two years ago an English merchant here laid a bet of 200 napoleons
that he would go from Resina[2] to the top in an hour and a half. Salvatore
went with him, and they did it in an hour and thirteen minutes. The
Englishman rode relays of horses, but the guide went the whole way on
foot, and the best part of the ascent had to drag up his companion He said it
nearly killed him, and he did not recover from it for several weeks; he is 53

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years old, but a very handsome man. He said, however, that the fatigue of
this exploit was not so painful as what he went through in carrying the
Duke of Buckingham to the top; he was carried up in a chair by twelve
men, and the weight was so enormous that his shoulder was afterwards
swelled up nearly to his head. When the Duke got down he gave a great
dinner (on the mountain), which he had brought with him to celebrate the
exploit. Salvatore said that he continues to write to many scientific men in
various parts of Europe when anything remarkable occurs in the mountain,
and talked of Buckland, Playfair, and Davy. We got down to Resina about
half-past nine, and at ten embarked again and sailed over to Castel-a-Mare,
where we arrived at one o’clock.
[2] From Salvatore’s house at Resina to the top of the mountain is seven miles; from the
Hermitage to the top, 3⅓. It is a mile and 200 feet from the bottom of the ascent (on foot) to the top,
800 feet from the point we first gain to the bottom of the crater; the inner crater (or black hill, as I
call it) is 230 feet high and 180 feet in circumference. The miles are Neapolitan miles, about three-
fourths of an English mile.

The next morning Mr. Watson and I got a six-oared boat (with sails)
and went to Sorrento. Castel-a-Mare and the whole coast are beautiful.
Landed a mile from Sorrento, and walked by a path cut in the rock to the
Cocomella, a villa with a magnificent prospect of the Bay exactly opposite
Naples.
Placido lunata recessu
Hinc atque hinc curvas perrumpunt æquora rupes.
Dat natura locum, montique intervenit imum
Litus et in terras scopulis pendentibus exit.
Then to the town to see the curiosities, which are the Piscine, Tasso’s
house, and some very romantic caverns in a wild dell under the bridge at
Sorrento; all very well worth seeing, but Tasso’s house was locked, so we
could not get to the terrace. Just as we arrived at Sorrento we found they
were performing a ceremony which takes place there every year on the 1st
of May, and there only—the benediction of the flowers, the ushering in the
may.
With songs and dance they celebrate the day,
And with due honours usher in the may.

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It was in the Archiepiscopal church, which was gaily adorned with
hangings of various colours, gold and silver and flowers, full of people, all
in their best attire. A priest in the pulpit opposite the Archbishop’s throne
called on the representatives of the different parishes (seven in number),
who advanced in succession, each bearing a huge cross fifteen or twenty
feet high, entirely made of flowers, and adorned with THE BLOOD OF SAN GENNARO
garlands and devices, all likewise of the most brilliant flowers, and, as each
came up, a little cannon was fired off. They were blessed in succession, and
then deposited around the throne of the Archbishop, who, after this
ceremony was concluded, went up to the altar and celebrated High Mass.
They told me that this festival had taken place at Sorrento from the remotest
time.
After seeing the Piscine we went into a garden above, where there was
a profusion of orange and lemon trees, loaded with ripe fruit; the oranges
we pulled off the trees and ate; they were excellent, and as red as Morella
cherries—
Whose fruit, burnished with golden rind,
Hung amiable, Hesperian fables true,
If true, here only, of delicious taste.
We could not stay long at Sorrento, and were four hours rowing across
the Bay to Naples. Dined with Hill at the Villa Belvidere (a delicious villa
on the Vomero), with a large, tiresome party, principally English.
Yesterday the miracle of the blood of San Gennaro was performed, and
of course successfully; it will be repeated every morning for eight days. I
went to-day to the Cathedral, where San Gennaro’s silver bust was standing
on one side of the altar, surrounded by lights, and the vessel containing the
blood on the other. Round the altar were ranged silver heads of various
saints, his particular friends, who had accompanied him there to do him
honour, and who will be taken this evening with him in procession to his
own chapel. Acton and I went together, and one of the people belonging to
the church seeing us come in, and judging that we wanted to see the blood,
summoned one of the canons, who was half asleep in a stall, who brought
out the blood, which is contained in a glass vase mounted with silver. It
liquefies in the morning, remains in that state all day, and congeals again at

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night. A great many people were waiting to kiss the vessel, which was
handed to us first. We kissed it, and then it went round, each person kissing
it and touching it with his head, as they do St. Peter’s foot at Rome. San
Gennaro and his silver companions were brought in procession from one of
the other churches, all the nobility and an immense crowd attending. I had
fancied that the French had exposed and put an end to this juggle, but not at
all. They found the people so attached to the superstition that they
patronised it; they adorned the Chapel of St. Januarius with a magnificent
altarpiece and other presents. The first time (after they came to Naples) that
the miracle was to be performed the blood would not liquefy, which
produced a great ferment among the people. It was a trick of the priests to
throw odium on the French, and the French General Championnet thought it
so serious that he sent word that if the blood did not liquefy forthwith the
priests should go to the galleys. It liquefied immediately, and the people
were satisfied. Acton told me that nobody believed it but the common
people, but that they did not dare to leave it off. It is what is called a false
position to be in, when they are obliged to go on pretending to perform a
miracle in which no men of sense and education believe, and in which it is
well known they don’t any of them believe themselves. Miracles, if
sometimes useful and profitable, are sometimes awkward incumbrances.
Drove round the obscure parts of the town, and through dense masses of
population, by the old palace of Queen Joan and the market place, which
was the scene of Masaniello’s sedition. He was killed in the great church (in
1646).

May 4th, 1830
To the Museum, and saw the mummies which have been unrolled; they
are like thin, black, shrivelled corpses; hair and shape of face perfect, even
the eyelids. The canvas fold in which they are wrapped quite fresh-looking;
the best preserved is 3,055 years old. Amongst the bronzes there is a bust of
Livia with a wig. Dined with Toledo, the Spanish Minister. The women put
their knives into their mouths, and he is always kissing his wife’s hand—an
ugly little old woman. Toledo was Romana’s aide-de-camp.

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May 5th, 1830
To Cumæ, and dined at the Lake of Fusaro THE BLOOD OF SAN GENNARO with
the Talbots and Lushingtons; not a pretty lake, but the country near it pretty
enough. A splendid sunset, with real purple. ‘Lumine vestit purpureo.’

May 7th, 1830
In the morning to the Chapel of St. Januarius, to see the blood liquefy.
The grand ceremony was last Saturday at the Cathedral, but the miracle is
repeated every morning in the Chapel for eight days. I never saw such a
scene, at once so ludicrous and so disgusting, but more of the latter. There
was the saint, all bedizened with pearls, on the altar, the other silver ladies
and gentlemen all round the chapel, with an abundance of tapers burning
before them. Certain people were admitted within the rails of the altar; the
crowd, consisting chiefly of women, and most of them old women, were
without. There is no service, but the priests keep muttering and looking at
the blood to see if it is melting. To-day it was unusually long, so these old
Sibyls kept clamouring, ‘Santa Trinità!’ ‘Santa Vergine!’ ‘Dio onnipotente!’
‘San Gennaro!’ in loud and discordant chorus; still the blood was obstinate,
[3] so the priest ordered them to go down on their knees and to say the
Athanasian Creed, which is one of the specifics resorted to in such a case.
He drawled it out with his eyes shut, and the women screamed the
responses. This would not do, so they fell to abuse and entreaties with a
vehemence and volubility, and a shrill clamour, which was at once a proof
of their sincerity and their folly. Such noise, such gesticulations. One
woman I never shall forget, with outstretched arm, distorted visage, and
voice of piercing sharpness. In the meantime the priest handed about the
phial to be kissed, and talked the matter over with the bystanders. ‘È sempre
duro?’ ‘Sempre duro, adesso v’ è una piccola cosa.’ At last, after all the
handling, praying, kissing, screaming, entreating, and abusing, the blood
did melt,[4] when the organ struck up, they all sang in chorus, and so it
ended. It struck me as particularly disgusting, though after all it is not fair to
abuse these poor people, who have all been brought up in the belief of the
miracle, and who fancy that the prosperity of their city and all that it
contains is somehow connected with its due performance. The priests could

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not discontinue it but by acknowledging the imposture, and by an
imaginative people, who are the slaves of prejudice, and attached to it by
force of inveterate habit, the acknowledgment would not be believed, and
they would only incur odium by it; there it is, and (for some time at least) it
must go on.
[3] I dined at Hill’s; sat next to the Duchess de Dalberg, talked of the miracle, which she told me
she firmly believed. I fancied none believed it but the lowest of the people, and was (very foolishly)
astonished; for what ought ever to produce astonishment which has to do with credulity in matters of
religion?
[4] Illarum lacrymæ meditataque murmura præstant,—Juvenal, 6.

Went up to Craven’s villa (this is the villa at which the amour between
the present Queen of Naples and Captain Hess was carried on), and sat
there doing nothing in the middle of flowers, and sea breezes, and beautiful
views. To comprehend all the luxury of the bel far niente one must come to
Naples, where idleness loses half its evil by losing all its enervating
qualities; there is something in the air so elastic that I have never been at
any place where I have felt as if I could make exertions so easily as here,
and yet it is a great pleasure to sit and look at the Bay, the mountains, the
islands, and the town, and watch its amusing inhabitants. At least half an
hour of every morning is spent at my window, while I am dressing,
watching the lazaroni, who fish, work, swim, dress, cook, play, and quarrel
under it. At this moment the scene is as follows:—Half a dozen boats with
awnings and flags moored off the landing-place, a few fishing-boats with
men mending their nets, three fellows swimming about them, two with red
caps on perched upon the wall playing at cards, two or three more looking
on, one on the ground being shaved by a barber with a basin (the exact
counterpart of Mambrino’s helmet), and two or three more waiting their
turn for the same operation—always a certain number lounging about,
others smoking or asleep.

May 8th, 1830
Rode with a large party to Astroni, where they dined, but I did not.
There were the Lushingtons, Prince and Princess Dentici (he is at the head
of the Douane), Madame and Mademoiselle Galiati (she is remarkably

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pretty), ASTRONI Count (I believe) and Countess Rivalvia, her uncle, Lord A.
Chichester, Count Gregorio, and a Mr. Stuart. The park, or whatever it is
called—for it is the King’s chase and full of wild boars—is one of the most
beautiful and curious places about Naples. Milton’s description of the
approach to Eden applies exactly to Astroni; if ever he saw it it is likely that
he meant to describe it—
To the border comes
Of Eden, where delicious Paradise,
Now nearer, crowns with her enclosure green,
As with a rural mound, the champaign head
Of a steep wilderness, whose hairy sides,
With thicket overgrown, grotesque, and wild,
Access denied; and overhead up grew
Insuperable height of loftiest shade,
A sylvan scene, and as the ranks ascend
Shade above shade, a woody theatre
Of stateliest view.
It is an immense crater of a volcano, the amphitheatre quite unbroken,
and larger than that of Vesuvius, but covered with wood, and the bottom
with very fine trees of various sorts and with fern—very wild and
picturesque. There are several little hillocks, supposed to have been small
craters; but although it is proved that this was a volcano from the lava under
the soil and from its shape, there is no mention of it as an active volcano,
and nobody can tell how many thousand years ago it was in operation. The
King, with his usual good taste, is cutting down the finest trees, and has
made a ride round the bottom, which he has planted with poplars in a
double row, spoiling as much as he can all the beauty of the place. They
dined in a shady arbour, made on purpose with branches of trees bound
together, and on beds of fern, were very merry, pelting each other with
oranges and cherries, and dealing about an abundance of manual jests.
Evening.—I have taken my last ride and last look at Naples, and am
surprised at the sorrow I feel at quitting it, as I fear, for ever. Rode again to
Astroni with Morier, and walked through the wood and tried to scale one of
the sides of the mountain, but lost the path, and could only get half-way up;
it is the most beautiful place about Naples. Came back by the Strada Nuova,

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and saw for the last time that delicious Bay with its coast and its islands,
which are as deeply imprinted on my memory as if I had passed my life
among them. To-night I have stood once more by the shore, and could
almost have cried to think I should never see it again—
The smooth, surface of this summer sea—
nor breathe this delicious air, nor feast my eyes on the scene of gaiety, and
brilliancy, and beauty around me. Nobody can form an idea of Naples
without coming to it; every gale seems to bring health and cheerfulness
with it, and appears ‘able to drive all sadness but despair.’
Naples, they tell me, does very well for a short time, but you will soon
grow tired of it. To be sure, I have been here only three weeks, but I liked it
better every day, and I am wretched at leaving it. What could I ever mean
by thinking it was not gay, and less lively than Genoa? To-night, as I came
home from riding, the shore was covered with lazaroni and throngs of
people, dancing, singing, harping, fiddling—all so merry, and as if the open
air and their own elastic spirits were happiness enough. I suppose I shall
never come again, for when I have measured back the distance to my own
foggy country, there I shall settle for ever, and Naples and her sunny shores
and balmy winds will only be as a short and delightful dream, from which I
have waked too soon.

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CHAPTER X.
Mola di Gaeta — Capua — Lines on leaving Naples — Return
to Rome — The Aqueducts — ‘Domine, quo vadis?’ — St.
Peter’s — The Scala Santa — Reasons in favour of San Gennaro
— Ascent of St. Peter’s — Library of the Vatican — A racing ex
voto — Illness of George IV. — Approaching Coup d’état in
France — The Villa Mills — The Malaria — Duc and Duchesse
de Dalberg — The Emperor Nicholas on his Accession —
Cardinal Albani — A Columbarium — Maii — Sir William Gell
— Tivoli — Hadrian’s Villa — The Adventures of Miss Kelly
and Mr. Swift — Audience of the Pope — Gibson’s Studio —
End of Miss Kelly’s Marriage — A great Function — The
Jesuits — Saint-making — San Lorenzo in Lucina — The
Flagellants — Statues by Torchlight — Bunsen on the State of
Rome — Fiascati — Relations of Protestant States with Rome
— The French Ministry — M. de Villèle — The Coliseum —
Excommunication of a Thief — The Passionists — The Corpus
Domini — A Rash Marriage — Farewell to Rome — Falls of
Terni — Statue at Pratolino — Bologna — Mezzofanti —
Ferrara — Venice — Padua — Vicenza — Brescia — Verona —
Milan — Lago Maggiore — The Simplon — Geneva — Paris.

Mola di Gaeta, May 9th, 1830
I have dined here on an open terrace (looking over the garden and the
delicious Bay), where I have been sitting writing the whole evening. The
moon is just rising, and throwing a flood of silver over the sea—
Rising in cloudless majesty,
Apparent queen, unveiled her peerless light

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And o’er the dark her silver mantle threw.
We left Naples at half-past seven in the morning, went to Caserta, and
walked over the palace, in which nothing struck me but the dimensions, the
staircase, and a few of the rooms. The theatre is very well contrived; it is at
one end of the palace, and the back of it opens by large folding doors into
the garden, so that they can have any depth of stage they please, and
arrange any pageants or cavalcades. This could, however, only be at a
theatre in a country house. Thence to Capua, and went over the
Amphitheatre, which is very remarkable. It is said to be larger than the
Coliseum, but the arena did not appear to me so vast. Here we are in the
land of names again, and it is impossible for the imagination not to run over
the grandeur, luxury, and fate of Capua, for on the very spot on which I was
standing (for the chief places are ascertained) in all probability Hannibal
often sat to see the games.[1]
[1] No such thing. His Capua was nearly destroyed, and if it had an amphitheatre it would have
been ruined. These ruins must have belonged to Capua the Second, which was restored by Augustus
or Tiberius, and became as flourishing and populous as the first had been.—[C.C.G.]

The Italian postilions, it must be owned, are a comical set. They
sometimes go faster than ever I went in England, then at others they creep
like snails, and stop at the least inclined plane to put on the scarpa. The
occasions they generally select for going fast are when they have six horses
harnessed to the carriage, and so extend about ten yards, on slippery
pavement, through very narrow streets, extremely crowded with women and
children; then they will flog their horses to full speed, and clatter along
without fear or shame. Nothing happens; I have remarked that nothing ever
does anywhere in Italy.
I have walked over this garden [at Gaeta], which contains remains of
one of Cicero’s villas, but they are only arched rooms like vaults, and not
worth seeing but for the name of Cicero, and the recollection that he was
murdered almost on this spot. He had good taste in his villas, for this bay is
as placid and delicious as that of Baiæ. There is an ancient bath, which
probably belonged to the villa; it is in the sea, and still available, when
cleaned out, which just now it is not.

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Rome, May 10th, 1830
Left Mola at half-past seven and got here at ten minutes after seven. It
was so kind as to rain last night and this morning, and lay the dust all the
way. Stopped at Terracina, and went to see the ancient port, which is worth
seeing. The road is pretty all the way, but the scenery in Italy wants verdure
and foliage. The beauty LINES ON LEAVING NAPLES of these landscapes consists in
the bold outlines, lofty mountains, abundant vegetation, and bright
atmosphere, and they are always better to look at from a little distance than
very near. Aricia is pretty well wooded. I found a parcel of letters with the
London news; but the post is enough to drive one mad, for I got one of the
23rd of April and another of the 19th of March on the same day.
ON TAKING LEAVE OF NAPLES.
(Written in a carriage between Naples and Mola di Gaeta.)
‘Nascitur poeta.’
Though not a spark of true poetic fire
Beamed at my birth, or on my cradle fell,
Though rude my numbers, and untuned my lyre,
I will not leave thee with a mute farewell.
I cannot see recede thy sunny shore,
Nor ling’ring look my last upon thy bay,
And know that they will meet my gaze no more,
Yet tearless take my unreturning way.
’Tis not that Love laments his broken toys,
Nor is it Friendship murmurs to depart,
Touching the chords of recollected joys
Which ring with sad vibration on the heart.
Nor bound am I in Habit’s unfelt chain,
Which o’er the fancy steals with gradual pow’r,
Till local sympathy awakes in pain,
That slept unconscious till the parting hour.
But ’tis the charm, so great, yet undefin’d,
That Nature’s self around fair Naples throws,
Which now excites and elevates the mind,

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And now invites it to no dull repose.
No exhalations damp the spirits choke,
That feed on ether temp’rate and serene;
No yellow fogs, or murky clouds of smoke,
Obscure the lustre of this joyous scene.
The God of Gladness with prolific ray
Bids the rich soil its teeming womb expand,
While healthful breezes, cooled with Ocean’s spray,
Scatter a dewy freshness o’er the land.
No mountain billow’s huge uplifted crest
Lashes the foaming beach with sullen roar;
The smooth sea sparkles in unbroken rest,
Or lightly rakes upon the pebbled shore.
The Ocean’s Monarch on these golden sands
Seems the luxurious laws of Love to own,[2]
And yield his trident to Thalassia’s hands,
To rule the waters from the Baian throne.
Here the green olive, and the purple vine,
The lofty poplar and the elm espouse,
Or round the mulberry their tendrils twine,
Or creep in clusters through the ilex boughs.
A thousand flow’rs, enamelling the fields,
Declare the presence of returning spring;
A various harvest smiling Ceres yields,
And all the groves with vocal music sing.
Earth, air, and sea th’ enchantment of the clime,
Revived that young elation of the breast
When Hope, undaunted, saw the form of Time
In Fancy’s gay, deluding colours drest,
And though those visions are for ever fled
Which in the morning of existence rose,
And all the false and flatt’ring hopes are dead

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That vainly promised a serener close.
I’ll snatch the joys which spite of fate remain
To cheer life’s darkness with a transient ray,
And oft in vivid fancy roam again
Through these blest regions when I’m far away.
[2] The Temple of Venus stands upon the shore of the Bay of Baiæ.

Rome, May 13th.—11th, 1830
Walked about visiting to announce my return, and found nobody at
home. Hired a horse and rode with Lovaine till near eight o’clock; rode by
THE AQUEDUCTS the Via Sacra two or three miles along the Street of Tombs—
very interesting and curious—and then cut across to the ruin of an old villa,
where an apartment floored with marble has lately been discovered,
evidently a bath, and a very large one; on to Torlonia’s scavo and under the
arches of the Claudian aqueduct. Nothing at Rome delights and astonishes
me more than the aqueducts, the way they stretch over the Campagna—[3]
As some earth-born giants spread
Their mighty arms along th’ indented mead.
[3] The Claudian aqueduct, which is the grandest, and whose enormous remains form the great
ornament of the Campagna, was begun by Caligula, and finished by Claudius. The structure of the
arches is exactly like those of the Coliseum. The first aqueduct was built by Appius Cæcus, the
censor, the same who laid down the Via Appia, 310 B.C.

And when you approach them how admirable are their vastness and solidity
—each arch in itself a fabric, and the whole so venerable and beautiful.
After all my delight at Naples I infinitely prefer Rome; there is a tranquil
magnificence and repose about Rome, and an indefinable pleasure in the
atmosphere, the colouring, and the ruins, which are better felt than
described. We lingered about the aqueducts till dark, but there is hardly any
twilight here; the sun sets, and in half an hour it is night. Almost everybody
is gone or going, but the heat can’t have driven them away, for it is
perfectly cool.

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As we set out on our ride we passed a little church called ‘Domine,
quo vadis?’ which was built on this occasion:—St. Peter was escaping from
Rome (he was a great coward, that Princeps Apostolorum), and at this spot
he met Christ, and said to him, ‘Domine, quo vadis?’ ‘Why,’ replied our
Saviour, ‘I am going to be crucified over again, for you are running away,
and won’t stay to do my business here;’ on which St. Peter returned to
suffer in his own person, and the church was built in commemoration of the
event. The Saint has no reason to be flattered at the character which is given
of him by the pious editors of his Epistles. ‘Confidence and zeal form a
conspicuous part of his character, but he was sometimes deficient in
firmness and resolution. He had the faith to walk upon the water, but when
the sea grew boisterous his faith deserted him and he became afraid. He was
forward to acknowledge Jesus to be the Messiah, and declared himself
ready to die in that profession, and yet soon after he thrice denied, and with
oaths, that he knew anything of Jesus. The warmth of his temper led him to
cut off the ear of the High Priest’s servant, and by his timidity and
dissimulation respecting the Gentile converts at Antioch he incurred the
censure of the eager and resolute St. Paul.’
We returned through the Porta di San Giovanni, and by the Scala
Santa. There are three flights of steps; those in the middle are covered with
wood (that the marble may not be worn out), and these are the holy steps;
the other two are for the pious to walk down. I had no idea anybody ever
went up on their knees, though I was aware they were not allowed to go up
on their feet, and with no small surprise saw several devout females in the
performance of this ceremony. They walk up the vestibule, drop upon their
knees, rise and walk over the landing-place, carefully tuck up their gowns,
drop again, and then up they toil in the most absurd and ridiculous postures
imaginable.
Weak in their limbs, but in devotion strong,
On their bare hands and feet they crawl along.
Dryden, Juv. 6.
I suppose there is some spiritual advantage derivable from the action,
but I don’t know what. Why, however, I should be surprised I can’t tell,
after all I have seen here. Madame de Dalberg came to my recollection, and
San Gennaro; she had owned to me that she believed in the miracle, and we

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had a long dispute about it, though I have since thought that I am wrong to
regard her credulity with such pity and contempt. The case admits of an
argument, though not that which she made use of. Many people are right in
what they do, but without knowing why; some wrong, with very fair
reasons. She, however, is wrong both MODERN MIRACLES ways, but she had
been brought up in principles of strong religious belief, and she belongs to a
church which teaches that miracles have never ceased from the days of the
Apostles till now. Those who believe that a miracle ever was performed
cannot doubt that another may be performed now; the only question is as to
the fact. We believe that miracles ceased with the Apostles, and we
pronounce all that are alleged to have happened since to be fictitious.
Believing as she does that miracles have continually occurred, it is more
reasonable to believe in the reality of one she sees herself than in those
which are reported by others. She sees this done; it is, then, a miracle or it is
an imposture; but it is declared to be a miracle by a whole body of men,
who must know whether it be so or not, and to whom she has been
accustomed to look up with respect and confidence, and who have always
been deemed worthy of belief. What is it, then, she believes? The evidence
of her own senses, and the testimony of a number of men, and a succession
of them, who are competent witnesses, and whose characters are for the
most part unblemished, in her opinion certainly. The objection that it is
improbable, and that no sufficient reason is assigned for its performance, is
quite inadmissible, as all considerations of reason are in matters of
revelation.

And when the event only is revealed, it is not for men to
dogmatise about the mode or means of its accomplishment, for
God’s ways are not as our ways, nor His thoughts as our
thoughts, and His purposes may be wrought out in a manner that
we wot not.—Keith.

There is nothing of which we are so continually reminded as that we
must not pretend to judge of the reasonableness and fitness of the Divine
dispensations, and there may therefore be good cause for the San Gennaro
affair, though we cannot fathom it. Still, as the generality of people of
education have given it up, one wonders at the orthodox few whose belief

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lingers on. There are other bloods that liquefy in various places besides San
Gennaro’s.

May 12th, 1830
Walked to Santa Agnese, in the Piazza Navona, a pretty church, but
hardly anybody in it; to Santa Maria sopra Minerva, empty likewise, but
Michael Angelo’s Christ was there—a grand performance, though defective
about the legs, which are too thick; he has one golden foot for the devotees,
who were wearing out the marble toe, and would soon have had it as
smooth as that of Jupiter’s in St. Peter’s; ci-devant Jupiter, now St. Peter.
I went again to the Pantheon, and walked round and round, and looked,
and admired; even the ragged wretches who came in seemed struck with
admiration. It is so fine to see the clouds rolling above through the roof; it
passes my comprehension how this temple escaped the general wreck of
Rome. Then to St. Peter’s, and went up to the roof and to the ball, through
the aperture of which I could just squeeze, though there is plenty of room
when once in it. The ball holds above thirty people, stuffed close of course.
Three other men were going up at the same time, who filled the narrow
ascent with garlicky effluvia. It is impossible to have an idea of the size and
grandeur of St. Peter’s without going over the roof, and examining all the
details, and looking down from the galleries. The ascent is very easy; there
are slabs at the bottom taken from the holy gates, as they were successively
opened and closed by the different Popes at the Jubilees.[4] At the top were
recorded the ascents of various kings and princes and princesses, who had
clambered up; there was also an inscription in Latin and Italian, the very
counterpart of that which is still seen on the wall in Titus’s Baths, only
instead of ‘Jovem omnipotentem atque omnes Deos iratos habeat,’ &c. &c.,
it runs, ‘Iratos habeat Deum omnipotentem et Apostolos Petrum et Paulum,’
though I don’t see why Paul should care about it. Went afterwards and
walked on the Pincian.
[4] The Jubilee was established by Boniface VIII. in 1300, and was originally a centenary
commemoration, but reduced to fifty years, and afterwards to twenty-five, as it still continues.
Hallam remarks that the Court of Rome at the next Jubilee will read with a sigh the description of
that of 1300. ‘The Pope received an incalculable sum of money, for two priests stood day and night at
the altar of St. Peter, with rakes in their hands, raking up the heaps of money.’—Muratori.

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A RACING VOW This morning went with the Lovaines and Monsignore
Spada to see the library of the Vatican, which was to have been shown us by
Monsignore Maii, the librarian, but he was engaged elsewhere and did not
come. These galleries are most beautiful, vast, and magnificent, and the
painting of the old part interesting and curious, but that which was done by
Pius VI. and Pius VII. has deformed the walls with such trash as I never
beheld; they present various scenes of the misfortunes of these two Popes,
and certain passages in their lives. The principal manuscripts we saw were a
history of Federigo di Felto, Duke of Urbino, and nephew of Julius II.,
beautifully illuminated by Julio Clovio, a scholar of Giulio Romano. I never
saw anything more exquisite than these paintings. Amongst the most
curious of the literary treasures we saw are a manuscript of some of St.
Augustine’s works, written upon a palimpsest of Cicero’s ‘De Republicâ;’
this treatise was brought to light by Maii; the old Latin was as nearly erased
as possible, but by the application of gall it has been brought out faintly, but
enough to be made out, and completely read: Henry VIII.’s love-letters to
Anne Boleyn, in French and English: Henry’s reply to Luther, the
presentation copy to the Pope (Clement VII.), signed by him twice at the
end, in English at the end of the book, in Latin at the dedication, which is
also written by his own hand, only a line; the pictures representing St.
Peter’s in different stages of the work are very curious. In the print room
there is a celestial globe painted by Julio Romano.
Just before I went to the Vatican I read in ‘Galignani’ the agreeable
intelligence that my mare Lady Emily had beat Clotilde at Newmarket,
which I attribute entirely to my ex voto of a silver horse-shoe, which I
vowed, before I went to Naples, to the Virgin of the Pantheon in case I won
the match; and, as I am resolved to be as good as my word, I have ordered
the horse-shoe, which is to be sent on Monday, and as soon as it arrives it
shall be suspended amongst all the arms, and legs, and broken gigs, and
heads, and silver hearts, and locks of hair.
Everybody here is in great alarm about the King (George IV.), who I
have no doubt is very ill. I am afraid he will die before I get home, and I
should like to be in at the death and see all the proceedings of a new reign;
but, now I am here, I must stay out my time, let what will happen. I shall
probably never see Rome again, and ‘according to the law of probability, so

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true in general, so false in particular,’ I have a good chance of seeing at least
one more King leave us.

May 15th, 1830
I rode with Lord Haddington to the Villa Mellini last evening on a
confounded high-going old hunter of Lord Lynedoch’s, which he gave to
William Russell. On my return found Henry de Ros just arrived, having
been stopped at Aquapendente and Viterbo for want of a lascia passare.
This morning I have been dragging him about the town till he was half
dead. The three last days have been the hottest to which Rome is subject—
not much sun, no wind, but an air like an oven. The only cool place is St.
Peter’s, that is delicious. It is the coolest place in summer and the warmest
in winter. We went to St. Peter’s, Coliseum, gallery of the Vatican, Villa
Albani, and Villa Borghese. The Villa Albani I had not seen before; it is a
good specimen of a Roman villa, full of fine things (the finest of which is
the Antinous), but very ill kept up. The Cardinal has not set his foot in it for
a year and a half; there is one walk of ilexes perfectly shady, but all the rest
is exposed to the sun. The post brought very bad accounts of the King, who
is certainly dying. I have no notion that he will live till I get home, but they
tell me there will be no changes. Gagarin told me last night that Lieven is to
be governor to the Emperor of Russia’s eldest son, that for the present he
will retain the title of Ambassador, and that Matuscewitz will be Chargé
d’Affaires in London.

May 18th, 1830
Again dragging Henry de Ros about, who likes to see sights, but is not
strong enough to undergo fatigue. Yesterday I called on M. de la Ferronays,
and had a long conversation about French politics; he is greatly APPROACHING
COUP D’ETAT IN FRANCE alarmed at the state of affairs in France, and told me that
he had said everything he could to the King to dissuade him from changing
his Ministry and trying a coup d’état, that the King has always been in his
heart averse to a Constitution, and has now got it into his head that there is a

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settled design to subvert the royal authority, in which idea he is confirmed
by those about him, ‘son petit entourage.’ He anticipates nothing but
disaster to the King and disorder in the country from these violent
measures, and says that France was increasing in prosperity, averse to
change, satisfied with its Government and Constitution, and only desirous
of certain ameliorations in the internal administration of the country, and of
preserving inviolate the institutions it had obtained. He thinks the success of
the expedition to Algiers, if it should succeed, will have no effect in
strengthening the hands of Polignac; says they committed a capital fault in
the beginning by proroguing the Chambers upon their making that violent
Address in answer to the Speech, that they should immediately have
proceeded to propose the enactment of those laws of which the country
stands in need, when if the Chamber had agreed to them the Ministry would
have appeared to have a majority, and would thereby gain moral strength;
and if they had been rejected, the King would have had a fine opportunity
of appealing to the nation, and saying that as long as they had attacked him
personally he had passed it by, but as they opposed all those ameliorations
which the state of France required, his people might judge between him and
them, and that this would at least have given him a chance of success and
brought many moderate people to his side. He added that he had also said
the same thing to Polignac, but without success, that he is totally ignorant of
France and will listen to nobody. I told him that Henry de Ros had been at
Lyons when the Dauphin came, and how ill he was received by the
townspeople and the troops, at which he did not seem at all surprised,
though sorry.
Went to Santa Maria in Trastevere to-day, the Farnese Palace, the
Farnesina and Spada, Portico d’Ottavia and Mausoleo d’Augusto; this last
not worth seeing at all. The last time I was at the Spada I did not see the
pictures, some of which are very good, particularly a Judith by Guido, and a
Dido by Guercino, which is damaged, but beautiful. Then to Santa Maria
Maggiore and St. John Lateran, and a ride over the Campagna to the
Claudian aqueduct and Torlonia’s scavo.

May 20th, 1830

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I breakfasted with Mills at his villa on the Palatine; Madame de
Menon, Henry Cheney, Fox, and the Portuguese Charge d’Affaires; very
agreeable: his villa charming; it formerly belonged to Julius II., and one
room is painted in fresco by Raphael and his scholars, as they say.
The Portuguese is Donna Maria’s officer. The relations of the Holy See
with Portugal are rather anomalous, but sensible. The Pope says he has
nothing to do with politics, does not acknowledge Don Miguel, but as he is
de facto ruler of Portugal, he must for the good of the Church (whose
interests are not to be abandoned for any temporal considerations) transact
business with him, and so he does. This Envoy is very sanguine as to the
ultimate success of the Queen’s cause.
Went to the Orti Farnesiani and to Livia’s Baths, where there is still
some painting and gilding to be seen. Then to the Capitol; saw the pictures
and statues (again), and called on Bunsen, who told me a colossal head of
Commodus could not be Commodus (which stands in the court of the
Capitol); he won’t allow anything is anything. He is full of politics, and
thinks the French will get rid of their domestic difficulties by colonising
Africa, and does not see why they should not as well as the Romans; but he
seems a better antiquary than politician.
Some pictures in the Capitol are very fine—Domenichino’s Sybil and
Santa Barbara, Guercino’s Santa Petronella (copied in mosaic in St. Peter’s)
and Cleopatra and Antony. There are several unfinished Guidos, some only
just begun. They say he played, and when he lost and could not pay, MALARIA
painted a picture; so these are the produce of bad nights, and their progress
perhaps arrested by better.
To the Borghese Villa. At present I think Chiswick better than any villa
here, but they tell me when I get home and see Chiswick and remember
these I shall think differently.

May 22nd, 1830
Found it absolutely necessary to adopt Roman customs and dine early
and go out after dinner; one must dine at four or at nine. Went to Raphael’s

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house, which is painted by his scholars, and one room by himself; a very
pretty villa, uninhabited, and belongs to an old man and an old woman, who
will neither live in it nor let it. Though close to the Villa Borghese, which is
occupied by the malaria, this villa is quite free from it. The malaria is
inexplicable. If it was ‘palpable to sight as to feeling,’ it would be like a fog
which reaches so far and no farther. Here are ague and salubrity, cheek by
jowl. To the Pamfili Doria, a bad house with a magnificent view all round
Rome; fine garden in the regular clipped style, but very shady, and the stone
pines the finest here; this garden is well kept. Malaria again; Rome is
blockaded by malaria, and some day will surrender to it altogether; as it is,
it is melancholy to see all these deserted villas and palaces, scarcely one of
which is inhabited or decently kept. I don’t know one palace or villa which
is lived in as we should live in England; the Borghese Villa is the only one
which is really well kept, but Prince Borghese has 70,000ℓ. a year; he lives
at Florence and never comes here, but keeps collecting and filling his villa.
The other morning the ground here was in many parts covered by a thin red
powder, which was known to come from an eruption, and everybody
thought it was Vesuvius, and so travellers reported, but it turns out to be
from Etna or Stromboli. Naples was covered with it, and the sun obscured,
but it is much nearer. Rome must be 300 or 400 miles from Etna.

May 23rd, 1830
Went to three churches—Nuova, San Giovanni del Fiorentini, San
Agostino; in this latter is Raphael’s fresco of the prophet Isaiah, in the style
of M. Angelo, but it did not particularly strike me. There is a remarkable
Madonna here, a great favourite; her shrine is quite illuminated with lamps
and candles, and adorned with offerings which cover the columns on each
side of the church. Numerous devotees were kissing her gilt foot, and the
Virgin and Child were decked with earrings, bracelets, and jewels and gold
in every shape; the Child, which is of a tawny marble, looked like some
favourite little ‘nigger,’ so bedizened was he with finery. She is a much
more popular Madonna than my friend of the Pantheon, to whom I went, as
in honour bound, and hung up my horse-shoe by a purple riband (my racing
colour) round one of the candlesticks on the altar, with this inscription—
C.C.G., P.G.R.N. A.27, 1830.[5]

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[5] [These letters appear to stand for the following votive inscription: ‘Charles Cavendish
Greville. Pro gratias receptas nuper. April 27, 1830.’]

Took H. de Ros to see the Cenci and the skeleton friars, not exactly
birds of a feather; was obliged to squabble with the monk to get a sight of
my old friends the skeletons, who at last let us in, but would not take any
money, which I thought monks never refused, but my laquais de place said,
‘Lo conosco bene, c’è molto superbo.’ Rode along the Via Appia and to
Maxentius’s Circus.

May 24th, 1830
Called on Sir William Gell at his eggshell of a house and pretty
garden, which he planted himself ten years ago, and calls it the Boschetto
Gellio. He was very agreeable, with stories of Pompeii, old walls, and
ruined cities, besides having a great deal to say on living objects and
passing events.
Dined with M. de la Ferronays—a great party—and was desired to
hand out Madame la Comtesse de Maistre, wife to the Comte Xavier de
Maistre, author of the ‘Voyage autour de ma Chambre’ and ‘Le Lépreux,’ to
which works I gave a prodigious number of compliments. The Dalbergs and
Aldobrandinis dined there, and some French whom I did not know. The Duc
de Dalberg and his wife are a perpetual source of amusement to me, she
with her devotion and believing everything, he with his air moqueur and
believing nothing; she so merry, he so shrewd, and so they ACCESSION OF THE
EMPEROR NICHOLAS squabble about religion. ‘Qui est cet homme?’ I said to him
when a ludicrous-looking abbé, broader than he was long, came into the
room. ‘Que sais-je? quelque magot.’ ‘Ah, je m’en vais dire cela à la
Duchesse.’ ‘Ah, mon cher, n’allez pas me brouiller avec ma famille.’
He had been talking to me about La Ferronays the day before, and said
he was a sensible, right-headed man, ‘mais diablement russe;’ and last night
La Ferronays gave us an account of the revolt of the Guards on the Emperor
Nicholas’s accession, of which he had been a witness—of the Emperor’s
firmness and his subsequent conversations with him, all which was very
interesting, and he recounted it with great energy. He said that the day after

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the affair of the Guards all the Corps Diplomatique had gone to him, that he
had addressed them in an admirable discourse and with a firm and placid
countenance. He told them that they had witnessed what had passed, and he
had no doubt would give a faithful relation of it to their several Courts; that
on dismissing them, he had taken him (La Ferronays) into his closet, when
he burst into tears and said, ‘You have just seen me act the part of Emperor;
you must now witness the feelings of the man. I speak to you as to my best
friend, from whom I conceal nothing.’ He went on to say that he was the
most miserable of men, forced upon a throne which he had no desire to
mount, having been no party to the abdication of his brother, and placed in
the beginning of his reign in a position the most painful, irksome, and
difficult; but that though he had never sought this elevation, now that he had
taken it on himself he would maintain and defend it. When La Ferronays
had done, ‘L’entendez-vous?’ said Dalberg. ‘Comme il parle avec goût; cela
lui est personnel. L’Empereur ne lui a pas dit la moitié de tout cela.’
La Ferronays introduced me to Cardinal Albani, telling him I had
brought him a letter from Madame Craufurd, which I did, and left it when I
was here before. He thought I was just come, and asked for the letter, which
I told his Eminence he had already received. He had, however, forgotten all
about me, my letter, and old Craaf. We had a long conversation about the
Catholic question, the Duke’s duel with Lord Winchelsea (which he had
evidently never heard of), the King’s illness, &c. He is like a very ancient
red-legged macaw, but I suppose he is a dandy among the cardinals, for he
wears two stars and two watches. I asked him to procure me an audience of
the Pope, which he promised to do. Escaped at last from the furnace his
room was, and went to air in the streets; came home early and went to bed.
This morning got up at half-past six, and went to look out for some
columbaria I had heard of out of the Porta Pia, and near Santa Agnese. The
drones at Santa Agnese knew nothing about them, but I met La Ferronays
riding as I was returning in despair, and he showed me the way to them.
They have been discovered about six years, and are in a garden. The
excavation may be fifteen feet by about eight or nine, more or less, and is
full of broken urns and inscriptions, some of which are very good indeed.
One is upon C. Cargilius Pedagogus:—
Vixi quandiu potui, sine lite, sine rixâ,
Sine contentione, sine ære alieno, amicis fidem

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Bonam præstiti, peculio pauper, animo divitissimus,
Benè valeat is qui hoc titulum perlegit meum.
Another—
Lucius Virius Sancius æt. xxiii.
Quod tu mî debebas facere, ego tibi facio, mater pia.
The same idea as in Canning’s verses on his son:—
Whilst I, reversed our nature’s kindlier doom,
Pour forth a father’s sorrows o’er his tomb.
And Evander on Pellas:—
Contra ego vivendo vici mea fata superstes
Restarem ut genitor.
As I came back I looked into San Bernardo, Santa Maria della Vittoria,
and Santa Susanna, and I stopped to look at the ‘Moses striking the Rock,’
which is certainly very fine, though there is too much of Moses and not
enough of rock or water. TIVOLI After breakfast to the Vatican library, where
the Duc de Dalberg had engaged the Abbé Maii to meet him, and he showed
us all the manuscripts, most of which I had already seen. He is very
laborious as well as learned. Maii is said to undertake too much, and to
leave a great deal half examined, and therefore unknown; but somebody (I
forget who) is at daggers drawn with him, so it may be the accusation of a
literary enemy. Went about with the Dalbergs to several places, to all of
which I had been before. At every church the Duchess and her daughter
dropped on their knees and sprinkled themselves with holy water, and
prayed and curtsied, but nothing could get him down upon his marrow
bones.

May 25th, 1830
Breakfasted with Gell in his Boschetto Gellio under a treillage of
vines, and surrounded by fruits and flowers. He was very agreeable, and

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told us a great many anecdotes of the Queen and her trial. We are just
setting off for Tivoli.

May 27th, 1830
Went to Tivoli. The journey hotter than flames over the Campagna. It
is the most beastly town I ever saw, more like the Ghetto here than any
other place, full of beggars and children. The inn very moderate, but Henry
and I got a very good appartment, looking over the country, in a private
house. We all dined together.
—— is the merriest of saints, the jolliest of devotees, and very unlike
the ghost in ‘Don Juan,’ who says, ‘Che si pasce di cibo celeste non si pasce
di cibo mortale,’ for though rigorously obedient to the prescribed fasts of
the Church, she devours flesh enough on other days to suffice for those on
which it is forbidden; and on the meagre days she indemnifies herself by
any quantity of fish, vegetables, and sucreries of all kinds. It is only like
eating her first course on Thursday and her second on Friday.
After dinner we sent for the most famous guide, with the magnificent
name of Pietro Stupendo, called ‘Stupendous’ from his frequent use of that
adjective in pointing out the views. His real name is Barbarossa, which is
nearly as fine. We went to see the sun set from the Villa d’Este a very fine
villa, with clipped trees, waterworks, and all the usual beauties of Italian
villas. It belongs to the Duke of Modena, is uninhabited, and falling to
decay for want of care and attention. Thence to the Temple of the Sybil or
Vesta[6] (for it goes by both names), which is very airy and graceful, and
perched on the point of a rock, but its effect spoiled by being embedded in
dirty, ugly houses. The fall below was made by Bernini, and is very pretty,
but not grand, and it looks rather artificial. We saw it from what is called the
Grotto of Neptune. At night I returned again, but nobody else would stir
out. I went down to the fall, and had bundles of hay lit on the rock above,
and some blue lights called lumi di Bengala, a sort of firework, put in the
temple, and the effect was beautiful. The reflected light upon the cascade,
and the light and shade upon the rocks, and the temple made visible through
the darkness by the soft blue flame, without any of the background of
buildings appearing, were very fine, and in the obscurity it seemed much

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more extensive and natural. I saw this first from the Grotto of Neptune, and
then from the opposite height.
[6] I believe it to be the Sybil’s Temple. There is a frightful square building close to it they call
the Sybil’s Temple, but I do not see by what authority. Nibby says it is Vesta, but everybody else says
the Sybil.—Forsyth, Cramer, &c.

Yesterday morning we were to have started on the giro of Tivoli at six,
but as women are never ready, and a good deal of eating and drinking was
to be gone through before we got under weigh, we were not off till near
eight. The consequence was that we got into the heat, and lost the colouring
of the early morning, and those lights and shades on which great part of the
beauty of this scenery depends. I was altogether disappointed; the hills are
either quite bare or covered with olives, the most tiresome of trees; the falls
are all artificial, and though the view at the foot of the largest (or as near as
you can approach it) is beautiful, on the whole no part of the scenery
answered my expectations. The water falls in eleven separate cascades
(above and below), and sinking into the gulf appears to boil up again in
clouds of spray, but TIVOLI the artificial channel above is distinctly visible.
There is an ancient bridge over the Anio and part of a road up to Tivoli in
wonderful preservation. Our party pleased their imaginations by thinking
that Augustus and Mecænas had probably gone cheek by jowl over the road
and bridge, but Stupendous told me it was built by Valerian, A.D. 253,
though he had no notion who Valerian was, except that he was an Emperor.
There are some curious remains of Mecænas’s Villa, particularly the places
(if they are really so) where the slaves were kept, which are just like cellars.
I cannot remember seeing any apartments destined for slaves at Pompeii,
but from all one sees or hears and reads of the Roman slaves, they must
have been treated in a manner that it is inconceivable they should have
endured, considering their numbers, and of what they were generally
composed—barbarian prisoners or free citizens reduced to servitude. We
ended the giro at the Villa d’Este, and breakfasted on the terrace; the rest of
the party then retired to sleep and play at cards at the inn, and I started with
Stupendous to see the remains of an ancient city, and some specimens of
Cyclopean walls, about four or five miles off. The first place is called
Ventidius Bassa’s, because that gentleman had a villa there, built on the
ruins of a little Cyclopean town, where there are still some walls standing.
From thence to Mitriano, which must have been a large town, the vestiges
still covering several hills, and the remains of walls being very large; there

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is nothing left but a few broken fluted columns, and one flat marble stone
perfect, with an inscription. This jaunt was hardly worth the trouble.
When I came back from Mitriano, I went down to the Grotto of the
Syrens, from whence the view of the cascade is much finer than from the
other grotto, and really grand; but the path is very slippery from the clouds
of spray constantly falling over it. I did not go quite to the grotto, for
Stupendous told me he had nearly slipped down the rock and cracked his
crown; so I declined running that risk, but saw just as well, for I went nearly
to the bottom.
At half-past four we went to Adrian’s Villa, with which I was as much
delighted as I was disappointed with Tivoli. Nothing can be more
picturesque than the ruins, and nothing gives such an idea of the grandeur
of the ancient masters of the world. They are six miles in circumference,
and the remains are considerable, though not very distinct, but it is very
easy to perceive that they are the ruins of a villa, or a collection of
ornamental and luxurious buildings, and not of a town, which from their
size they might be. Almost all the ruins of antiquity that adorn Rome were
found here, or in Caracalla’s Baths, which latter were supplied from this
stock—all the Albani collection, most of the Museo Borbonico at Naples,
and half the Vatican. The Albani collection was made by a nephew of
Clement XI., the Albani Pope. They say only one-fourth has been
excavated. The ruins are overgrown with ivy and all sorts of creepers. The
grounds are full of pines and cypresses of great size, and it is altogether one
of the most interesting and beautiful spots I have seen in Italy. The Villa
Adriani now belongs to Duke Braschi, nephew of Pius VI. He has not
excavated, but the truth is that there is little temptation to individuals to do
so. The Government have taken all the ruins under their protection, and no
proprietor is allowed to destroy any part of them. So far so good, but if he
digs and finds anything, he may not sell it; the Government reserves to
itself a right of pre-emption, and should he be offered a large sum by any
foreigner for any object he may find, he is not allowed to take it, although
the Government may not choose to buy it at the same price. They will fix a
fair, but not a fancy price, but the vendor is often obliged, when they do buy
it, to wait many years for his money. Albani employed 1,000 men to
excavate.

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We came back in a deliciously cool evening. The Duchess wanted us to
keep with her carriage (she had a pair and we had four horses), for fear she
should be robbed—for she had heard that somebody had been robbed
somewhere a little while ago—which we promised; but our postilions set
off in a gallop, we fell asleep, and they were left to their fate.
MISS KELLY’S ADVENTURE At night.—This morning as I was sitting at
Torlonia’s reading the newspapers, a woman came in, whom Luigi Chiaveri
soon after begged to introduce to me. She was a Mrs. Kelly, of whose
history I had already heard, and I told Chiaveri I would assist her if I could.
She told me her case in detail. The short of it is this:—She and her daughter
(who is very pretty) got acquainted at Florence with a family of Swifts.
Young Swift seeing the girl was good-looking, and hearing she was rich,
made up to her, gained her affections (as they call it), and proposed to
marry her. She agreed, provided her mother did. They came to Rome. Swift
followed, established himself at the same inn, and wrote to the mother to
propose himself. The mother declined. He wrote a second letter—same
reply. He then prevailed on the girl to promise not to give him up, but failed
in persuading her to elope with him. She said she would marry him when
she was of age. He pressed her to give him a written promise to this effect
before witnesses. After some hesitation she agreed, and one evening
(having been previously appointed by him) she met him in another room,
where she found a priest and two men. She signed two papers without
reading them, heard a short form muttered over, which she did not
understand, and then was told to run downstairs again. A few days after she
got uneasy as to what had happened, and confessed it all to her mother, who
immediately conceived that this was a marriage ceremony into which she
had been inveigled. She told her lover what she had done, who asked her
what her mother had said. She told him that her mother fancied that it was a
marriage, but that she had told her it was not, when he informed her it was,
and this was the first intimation he gave her of the sort, and the first time he
had given her to understand that he regarded her as his wife. She
reproached him with his duplicity and the imposition he had practised on
her, and told him she would have no more to say to him. This took place in
St. Peter’s one Friday at vespers. Soon after they went to Naples, where
Swift followed, and wrote to her mother saying he had married her
daughter, and asking her forgiveness; that she might fancy the marriage was

Page 384

not valid, but she would find it was, having been celebrated by an abbé,
witnessed by the nephew of a cardinal, and the certificate signed by a
cardinal, with the knowledge of the Pope. She sent no answer, when he
begged an interview, which she granted, and then he told her that he was a
Catholic, and that her daughter had become so too, and had signed an act of
abjuration of the Protestant religion. The mother and daughter, however,
declined having anything to do with him, and the latter declared that she
had never changed her religion at all. He then claimed her as his wife, and
tried to prevail on Hill and Lushington (Sir Henry Lushington, Consul—the
present Lord Berwick, Minister) to prevent their leaving Naples. They
declined to interfere, and advised the mother to go home, and let the matter
be settled between them in England. She took the hint and set off. He
followed, and overtook them at Rome, and there, by representations to the
civil and religious authorities that they were taking away his wife to prevent
her being a Catholic, and make her relapse to the Protestant faith, he got
them to interfere, and their passports were refused. Such is their story. They
have nobody to advise, assist, or protect them.
I went to La Ferronays, who was all good-nature, and said he would go
with me to Cardinal Albani; but I went first to the hotel and saw the girl
alone, who corroborated all her mother had said. I wrote down her
evidence, and made her sign it, and then went with the Ambassador to the
Cardinal in the Quirinal Palace. The door of his cabinet was locked, but
after a sort of abbé suisse had knocked a little he came and opened it, and in
we went. He did not recollect my name the last time I saw him, nor my
person this. La Ferronays explained the business, with which he was
already acquainted, partly through Kestner (the Hanoverian Minister) and
partly through the Roman authorities, who had given him the case of the
adventurer, for such he seems to be. The Cardinal seemed disposed to do
nothing (Bunsen assures me he is a very sensible man, and right-headed MISS
KELLY’S ADVENTURE and well disposed), and said she was married. We said, not
at all. Then he hummed and hawed, and stammered and slobbered, and
talked of the ‘case being in the hands of the Saint Office [the Inquisition!!]
under the eyes of his Holiness. What could he do?’ We fired off a tirade
against the infamy of the action, said that the English tribunals ought to
decide upon the validity of the marriage, that all they wanted was to go
home, that the man might follow and make his claim good if he could, and

Page 385

that the story (if they were detained here) would make a noise in England,
and would be echoed back to France by the press of both countries, and that
it was very desirable to avoid such a scandal. He seemed struck with this,
and said it would be best to send them off to settle their disputes at home,
but that they must have patience, that time was necessary and the case must
be examined. We were obliged to be contented with this, and saying we
were sure the case was in good hands (which I doubt, for he would leave it
there if he dared), with many scrapes and compliments we took our leave.
The girl has never dared to show her face, for fear of being carried off by
the lover or shut up in a convent by the Grand Inquisitor, so I tranquillised
their minds and sent them out an airing. In the evening I spoke to
Monsignore Spada, who has promised to help to get up a case in Italian, if it
should be wanted.
Dined with M. de la Ferronays, and went to his villa (Mattei)
afterwards. He has been perfect in this affair, full of prompt kindness; but
what a Government! how imbecile, how superannuated!—a Minister of
ninety almost, a sovereign of whom all that can be said is that he is a great
canonist, and all that little bubbling and boiling of priestery and monkery,
which is at once odious, mischievous, and contemptible, a sort of extinct
volcano, all the stink of the sulphur without any of the splendour of the
eruption. They want the French again sadly. English subjects detained by
the Inquisition in 1830!! La Ferronays advised me to ask the Pope for a
moment of audience, and to request him to see the girl himself, and
interrogate her, and learn the truth, of the case.
I had just done writing the above when a note came from La Ferronays
with the passports for the Kellys, which Albani had sent him, so I had only
to thank the Cardinal instead of mentioning it to the Pope. I did not think he
would have been so quick. How enchanted they will be to-morrow
morning!

May 29th, 1830
At ten Kestner called for Lovaine and me, and we went to the Pope.[7]
His Court is by no means despicable. A splendid suite of apartments at the
Quirinal with a very decent attendance of Swiss Guards, Guardie Nobili,

Page 386

Chamberlains—generally ecclesiastics—dressed in purple, valets in red
from top to toe, of Spanish cut, and in the midst of all a barefooted
Capuchin. After waiting a few minutes, we were introduced to the presence
of the Pope by the Chamberlain, who knelt as he showed us in. The Pope
was alone at the end of a very long and handsome apartment, sitting under a
canopy of state in an arm-chair, with a table before him covered with books
and papers, a crucifix, and a snuff-box. He received us most graciously, half
rising and extending his hand, which we all kissed. His dress was white
silk, and very dirty, a white silk skullcap, red silk shoes with an
embroidered cross, which the faithful kiss. He is a very nice, squinting old
twaddle, and we liked him. He asked us if we spoke Italian, and when we
modestly answered, a little, he began in the most desperately unintelligible
French I ever heard; so that, though no doubt he said many excellent things,
it was nearly impossible to comprehend any of them; but he talked with
interest of our King’s health, of the antiquities, and Vescovali, of Lucien
Buonaparte and his extortion (for his curiosities), said when he was
Cardinal he used to go often to Vescovali. He is, in fact, a connoisseur.
Talked of quieting religious dissensions in England and the Catholic
question; and when I said, ‘Très-Saint Père, le Roi mon maître n’a pas de
meilleurs sujets que ses sujets catholiques,’ his eyes MISS KELLY’S ADVENTURE
whirled round in their sockets like teetotums, and he grinned from ear to
ear. After about a quarter of an hour he bade us farewell: we kissed his hand
and backed out again. We then went to the Cardinal, whom I thanked
warmly for his prompt attention to my request in having given the passports
to my protégées. It is the etiquette in the Court of the Quirinal for the
servants to descend from behind the carriage, and the horses to go a foot
pace.
[7] [The Pope was Pius VIII. (Francisco Xavierio Castiglioni), whose reign was a very short
one, for he succeeded Leo XII. in March 1829, and was succeeded by Gregory XVI. in December,
1830.]

After this audience I took the passport to the Kellys. The mother was
in bed, but the girl came to me in a transport of gratitude and joy. They went
off in the evening to Florence. La Ferronays advised me to send them off
directly, for fear the priests should begin to stir in the matter and raise fresh
obstacles.

Page 387

In the afternoon went to Gibson’s, the sculptor. He is very simple and
intelligent, and appears to be devoted to his art. There is a magnificent
Venus, composed from various models, like Zeuxis’s statue of Juno at
Crotona.
Quando Zeusi l’immagine far volse
Che par dovea nel tempio di Giunone,
E tante belle nude insieme accolse,
E per una farne in perfezione,
Da chi, una parte, e da chi, un’ altra tolse.

May 31st, 1830
Yesterday the advocate to whom I had advised Mrs. Kelly to go came
to me, and said he could not understand what she said, and she had desired
him to call on me. I told him the story, and he said he would look into it and
see what was to be done. I had advised her before she went to consult an
Italian lawyer as to the necessary steps to be taken here in order to prove the
invalidity of the marriage in England. This man, whose name is Dottore
Belli, was recommended to me by Monsignore Spada as a clever lawyer,
and particularly good for the case, because brother of one of the judges (or
other officer) in the Vicar-General’s court. But I suppose he has less
influence over the brother than the brother over him, for this morning he
sent me a very civil but formal letter, saying ‘the parties were married, and
had abjured after instruction received’—evidently a letter dictated by the
court or by his brother, or at all events by some ecclesiastical interest. They
evidently want to make the marriage good to save their own credit, but
there is a great mystery in the whole affair. Cardinal Weld told La Ferronays
that they had not yet found the priest who had performed the ceremony.
Bunsen at my request undertook to enquire into the affair, but up to the
present moment (June 13th) he has only made the case more confused and
inexplicable.[8]
[8] The conclusion of this affair is not less curious than its commencement. The parties returned
to this country. Swift sued Miss Kelly in the Ecclesiastical Court for the restitution of conjugal rights.
After much delay the case was elaborately argued before Sir John Nicholl, who at very great length
pronounced judgment against the validity of the marriage. Swift appealed to the Judicial Committee
of the Privy Council, when the sentence of the Court below was reversed, and the ceremony at Rome

Page 388

decided to be a good and binding marriage. The parties were thus irrevocably made man and wife,
and after some time had elapsed their mutual friends and relations set on foot a negotiation for a
reconciliation, and eventually Miss Kelly agreed to live with Mr. Swift, on condition that the
marriage ceremony should be regularly performed, which was accordingly done: certain settlements
were made, and they are now (for all I know to the contrary) living happily and harmoniously
together. [The further proceedings in this cause are described in the second volume of this Journal,
when they came before the Privy Council.]

To-day there was a grand ceremony of the transportation of the
standard of a new saint (that is, one made about fifty years ago) from St.
Peter’s to San Lorenzo in Lucina, his own church. This saint is San
Francisco Carraccioli, a Neapolitan. All the peasantry came in, covered with
religious gewgaws, and the streets were crowded. There was a balcony at
the Cardinal’s as for the Girandola, but the Duc de Dalberg and I went to
the Piazza di San Pietro, and saw it there; it was curious. First came the
guards; then the footmen of the cardinals in State liveries, four for each,
carrying torches; the clergy of various orders with chandeliers, crucifixes,
immense crosses, standards, and all with torches; a long file of Jesuits,
whose appearance was remarkable, so humble and absorbed did they look;
bands of music and soldiers, the whole reaching from the door of SAINT-
MAKING St. Peter’s to the other side of the Castle of St. Angelo. This
procession made the giro of the city, for we fell in with it again in the
Piazza della Colonna two hours afterwards. The Church of San Lorenzo and
the adjoining houses were illuminated, and there was a picture, inscription,
&c., stuck up over the door. The Cardinal Galetti, who is the patron of this
order, asked the General of the Jesuits to send some of his flock to swell the
procession, which he was desirous of making as brilliant as possible. The
General excused himself on the ground that the Jesuits were not in the habit
of attending processions. The Cardinal complained to the Pope of the
General’s refusal. The next time the Pope saw him (he goes once a week to
the Quirinal to make his report), after discussing all their matters of
business and giving him the benediction, just as he was leaving the room,
the Pope called after him, ‘O reverend Father, I hope you will not send less
than a hundred of your Jesuits to the procession to-morrow.’ The General
was thunderstruck, but obliged to obey. This ecclesiastical anecdote makes
a noise here. The present General is a Belgian, and a man of great ability.
The Jesuits have a college here, and a seminary; a hundred in the one, and
three hundred in the other.

Page 389

The process of saint-making is extremely curious. There are three
grades of saintship: the first, for which I forget the name, requires
irreproachable moral conduct; the second (beatification), two well-proved
miracles; the third (sanctification), three. It costs an immense sum of money
to effect the whole, in some cases as much as 100,000 piastres. The process
begins by an application to the Pope, on the part of the relatives of the
candidate, or on that of the confraternity, if they belong to a religious order.
The Pope refers the question to a tribunal, and the claimants are obliged to
appear with their proofs, which are severely scrutinised, and the miracles
are only admitted upon the production of the most satisfactory evidence.
Individuals continually subscribe for this purpose, particularly for members
of religious orders, in order to increase the honour or glory of the society.
These trials last many years, sometimes for centuries. There is a Princess of
Sardinia, sister of the late King, who died lately, and they want to make a
saint of her. The money (estimated at 100,000 piastres) is ready, but they
cannot rout out a miracle by any means, so that they are at a dead stand-still
before the second step. Nobody can be sanctified till two hundred years
after their death, but they may arrive at the previous grades before that, and
the proofs may be adduced and registered.

June 1st, 1830
Yesterday news came of the change in the French Ministry,[9] of which
La Ferronays knew nothing the night before, and from which Dalberg
anticipates an increase of desperate measures on the part of the Court. Went
in the morning to Gibson’s; in the evening to the Orti Sallustiani, one of the
many objects here not worth seeing, though they show two great holes in a
wall, which they call the Campo Scelerato, and they say it is the place
where the frail vestals were buried. Coming back we met the Pope taking a
drive—two coaches-and-four, with guards and outriders. We got out of the
carriage and took off our hats, and our laquais de place dropped on his
knees. The Pope was in white, two people sitting opposite to him, and as he
passed he scattered a blessing. All persons kneel when he appears—that is,
all Catholics. The equipage was not brilliant. To the Corsini Villa, the
gardens of which are some of the shadiest and most agreeable in Rome, but
nobody inhabits the palace. The Corsinis live at Florence, and when they

Page 390

come here they lodge elsewhere, for the malaria, they say, occupies their
domain. Thus it is that between poverty and malaria Rome is deserted by its
great men. But the population ought to be increasing, for almost every
woman one meets is with child. Gell denies the malaria, says he SAN LORENZO
IN LUCINA should not mind living where they say it is dangerous to live; but
can this be matter of opinion?
[9] [Charles X. had signed the decree for the dissolution of the existing Chamber of Deputies on
the 16th of May: on the 19th of May another ordinance appointed M. de Chantelauze to the Ministry
of Justice, M. de Peyronnet to the Interior, M. de Montbel to the Finances, and M. Capelle to the
Department of Public Works. These appointments, more especially that of M. de Peyronnet, were
deemed in the highest degree hostile to the Liberal party.]

In the evening looked into the Church and Piazza of San Lorenzo in
Lucina. The church is hung with drapery, adorned with statues, and
illuminated by innumerable wax candles. The piazza is illuminated too, and
drapery hung out from the windows. There were crowds of people, lines of
chairs, and boys bawling to the people to come and sit upon them; others
selling lemonade, others the life and exploits of the saint on penny papers; a
band of military music on a scaffolding, and guards patrolling about.
Between the intervals of the band the bells, in discordant chorus, regaled
‘the ears of the groundlings.’ This strange, discordant scene, the foundation
of which is religious, but which has but little of the appearance of religion
in it, lasts eight successive days, and costs a vast sum of money—they say
9,000 scudi—the greatest part of which is furnished by the Government. It
probably answers some end, for it is difficult to conceive that any
Government, even this, should spend money, of which they have so little to
spare, on these fooleries while poverty overspreads the land. This ceremony
has not taken place before for a hundred years. The sight is certainly very
gay. Close by, in the Palazzo Mani, is a theatre of marionettes, who play a
comedy of Goldoni. The Duke Fiani lets part of his palace for this purpose.
What an exhibition of wretchedness! He reserves a box which his servants
let to anybody, whether on his account or their own I don’t know.
Evening.—Went before dinner to the Villa Madama, a ruined villa
belonging to the royal house of Naples, with fine paintings still on the walls
and ceilings, the vestiges of former luxury, and a capital view of Rome, the
Tiber, the Milvian Bridge, and the mountains. After dinner to the San
Gregorio to see the frescoes, the ‘Martyrdom of St. Andrew,’ the rival

Page 391

frescoes of Guido and Domenichino, and afterwards drove about till dark,
when we went to a most extraordinary performance—that of the
Flagellants. I had heard of it, and had long been curious to assist at it. The
church was dimly lit by a few candles on the altar, the congregation not
numerous. There was a service, the people making the responses, after
which a priest, or one of the attendants of the church, went round with a
bundle of whips of knotted cord, and gave one to each person who chose to
take it. I took mine, but my companion laughed so at seeing me gravely
accept the whip, that he was obliged to hide his face in his hands, and was
passed over. In a few minutes the candles were extinguished, and we were
left in total darkness. Then an invisible preacher began exhorting his hearers
to whip themselves severely, and as he went on his vehemence and passion
increased. Presently a loud smacking was heard all round the church, which
continued a few minutes; then the preacher urged us to fresh exertions, and
crack went the whips again louder and faster than before as he exhorted.
The faithful flogged till a bell rang; the whips stopped, in a few minutes the
candles were lit again, and the priest came round and collected his cords. I
had squeezed mine in my hands, so that he did not see it, and I brought it
away with me. As soon as the candles were extinguished the doors were
locked, so that nobody could go out or come in till the discipline was over. I
was rather nervous when we were locked up in total darkness, but nobody
whipped me, and I certainly did not whip myself. A more extraordinary
thing (for sight it can’t be called) I never witnessed. I don’t think the people
stripped, nor, if they did, that the cords could have hurt them much. From
thence to St. Peter’s, where we found the quarant’ ore and the high altar
illuminated with heaps of candles. Only a few lights scattered at a great
distance through the rest of the church, very few people there; but the dim
light, the deep shades, the vast space, and the profound stillness were
sublime. Certainly nothing in the world can approach St. Peter’s, and it
always presents something new to admire.
From St. Peter’s to the Vatican, to see the statues by torchlight. The
effect is wonderful, and totally unlike that which is produced by day. The
finest statues unquestionably gain the most, and it is easy, after seeing this,
to understand why most of the best are found in the baths; a better BUNSEN’S
ACCOUNT OF ROME notion, too, may be formed of their magnificence. It would
seem as if some statues had been formed expressly to be thus exhibited.

Page 392

There is a mutilated statue they call a Niobe (God knows why), with
drapery blown back by the wind and appearing quite transparent. This effect
cannot be produced by daylight.

June 2nd, 1830
Called on Bunsen, who has not yet got an answer from the agent he
sent to the office of the Grand Vicar. I had a long conversation with him
about the expediency of appointing an English Minister or agent of some
sort at Rome, which he thinks very desirable and very feasible, upon the
same plan on which the diplomatic relations of Prussia with Rome are
conducted, and which he says go on very smoothly, and without
embarrassment or inconvenience. There is good faith on both sides. The
Catholic bishops do not attempt to deceive the Government, and he thinks
that the Court of Rome does not attempt to hold any clandestine intercourse
with the Prussian States. He says Albani is a sensible man; that the cardinals
are bigoted and prejudiced, hostile to England, and most of them forgetful
of all the See of Rome owes to our country; but they are still aware that, in
the hour of danger, it is to England and the Protestant countries they must
look for protection, as they found it when Austria wanted to strip them of
the March of Ancona. He thinks there is much superstition among the lower
classes, little religion among any, great immorality in all; the same desire of
intriguing and extending its influence which the Romish Church has always
had, but with very diminished means and resources. The Inquisition is still
active in repressing heresy among Roman subjects, but not venturing to
meddle with the opinions of foreigners. Its principles and its forms are the
same as in former times. He says we have an inefficient Consul at Ancona,
who was put in by Canning on account of his Liverpool connections. It
would be very desirable to establish a regular Protestant church in Rome,
with an able and permanent minister; but there is only an occasional church,
with anybody who will serve in it, and who is paid by the congregation; but
such a man is totally unable to cope with the Catholic preachers, and
consequently many converts are made to the Catholic religion. A Consul-
General at Rome might answer the purpose of an agent, and, without being
an accredited Minister, perform all the functions of one. This was the pith of
what he said, besides a great deal about the Catholic religion itself, its

Page 393

inferiority to the Reformed, its incompatibility with free institutions, and a
good deal more, not much to the purpose. Bunsen is a man of very
considerable information, learned, very obliging, and communicative,
sensible, moderate, but rather prejudiced. At this moment he is full of the
French expedition [to Algiers], and their colonising projects, of which he is
thoroughly persuaded and not a little afraid.
The Duc de Dalberg told me that at the Congress of Vienna he was
deputed to speak to Consalvi about ceding the March of Ancona to the
Austrians. He answered, ‘My dear Duke, the Congress can treat us as it
pleases. If we are pressed, we must retreat to the walls; further we cannot
go, and we are there already.’ The Cardinal afterwards spoke to the
Emperor, and the next day Metternich said he had orders from the Emperor
to declare that he would take nothing from the Pontifical States without the
free concurrence of the Pope; so there ended that question.
At night.—Just returned from Frascati with Henry de Ros—a very
agreeable expedition. We went to the inn, a most execrable hotel, but dined
very well on a repast we had the foresight to take with us. Before dinner
went to the Villa Conti, which has a delicious garden, with fine trees and
ample shade, and one of the prettiest falls of water I have seen. The house
we did not enter, but it appeared small. To the Villa Marconi, without any
garden, but a capital house, and the only one which looks well kept and
inhabited. The Marconi house in the Conti garden would be perfect. After
dinner to Tusculum, a beautiful walk under shade, with magnificent views
over the Campagna on one side and Monte Cavo, Rocca di Papa, and the
Prati d’Annibale on the other. The remains at Tusculum are next to nothing,
part of a theatre, of an aqueduct, and of the FRASCATI walls. I believe the town
was destroyed by Pope Celestine III. (1191), in order to extirpate a band of
robbers which had long infested the country and made Tusculum their
stronghold. All the country hereabout is beautiful, and the air excellent, so
that a more perfect residence cannot be imagined. To the Villa Belvidere,
belonging to Prince Aldobrandini, deserted and neglected, but very
enjoyable, full of childish waterworks, but a good house, which is to be
hired for 150ℓ. a year, and might be made very comfortable. Here is Mount
Parnassus, and the water turns an organ, and so makes Apollo and the
Muses utter horrid sounds, and a Triton has a horn which he is made to
blow, producing a very discordant noise. I fell in with Lady Sandwich, and

Page 394

went back to tea with her at a villa which belonged to the Cardinal York.
There are the royal arms of England, a bust of the Cardinal, and a picture of
his father or brother. We also went to the Rufinella, whence the view is
extremely fine; this was Lucien Buonaparte’s villa, and the scene of the
capture of a painter and a steward by the banditti, who carried them off
from the door of the villa and took them into the Abruzzi, which may be
descried from the terrace. The cicerone who went with us (a tiresome and
chattering fellow) told us that he had attended Queen Caroline, that they
had come to him for evidence against her, and he had declared he knew
nothing; but he said he could have deposed to some things unfavourable to
her, having seen her and Bergami together and witnessed their familiarity.

June 4th, 1830
Yesterday rode round the walls. In the evening to the Vatican, and
afterwards to Bunsen’s. He gave me his memorandum to read, which is
contained in a letter to Wilmot Horton of the 28th of December, 1828, upon
the settlement of the Catholic question, and his view of the mode in which it
might be done. He approves of Wilmot’s plan, not knowing at that time that
the Duke had resolved to grant unqualified emancipation. In this paper he
describes the existing arrangements between the other Protestant Powers
and the Court of Rome, and states in what manner he thinks we might
pursue a similar course. It is well done, and his ideas appear to me very
clear and sound. It is pretty evident that we should meet with no difficulties
here, and that they would practically agree to everything we should require,
provided we did not insist upon their doing so in specific terms. Our
difficulties would arise from the extreme parties at home—the ultra-
Catholics and the ultra-Protestants—but a steady hand might steer betwixt
them both. Bunsen describes what has been done in Prussia, Hanover,
Netherlands, and the minor German States; the Prussian arrangements
appear to be the wisest. When the King of Prussia began to negotiate, he did
not allow his Ministers to enter upon any discussion of principles, nor to
ask for any express sanction of the status quo. On the other hand he did not
prescribe to the Church of Rome the canonical form in which an express or
tacit acknowledgment of the claims and rights of the Crown was to be made
as to the secularisation of Church property. The Netherlands went on a

Page 395

different plan, and framed a constitution of the Roman Catholic Church in
their dominions, called a Pragmatic Sanction, which they wanted the Pope
to acknowledge. The Hanoverian Government also wished to conclude a
formal treaty, and oblige the Pope to sanction certain civil regulations
concerning Church government. He observes that the Court of Rome will
appear ignorant of, and thus tacitly acknowledge, many things which it
never will nor can expressly sanction and approve.
Throughout Germany, both Catholic and Protestant, all correspondence
between the clergy and the Pope goes through the Government by the law
of the country—all matters public and private—the Pope’s bulls and briefs
are returned in the same way; and whenever any of these contain
expressions which run against the national laws, the placet regium is only
given with clauses reserving the rights of the Crown, and annulling what is
irreconcilable with the civil law. The Court of Rome is quite aware of this
practice, and the legations of Bavaria and Austria, as well as those of
Prussia and Hanover, present the respective petitions of their clergy through
their Roman agents. Bunsen says nothing can be practically more
established, PROTESTANT STATES AND ROME but that no consideration would induce
the Pope formally to sanction the practice in a treaty.
In the arrangements respecting the appointment of bishops and
dignitaries, Prussia proposed the establishment of chapters, with the same
right of election which had existed before the French Revolution. The
smaller States of Germany followed a similar plan. Hanover proposed and
obtained a veto. The chapter presents a list; the Government strikes out any
name, but must leave two, out of which the chapter may elect, but in case of
irregularity or inconvenience the chapter may make a second list. The
Netherlands have the same system of limited veto and second list, and the
confidential brief in addition.[10] The chapters have the right of election, the
Pope of confirmation, by canonical institution as the necessary condition of
the bishop’s consecration; but besides a confidential brief was agreed on
desiring the chapter not to elect as bishop a person ‘minus gratam
serenissimo regi;’ this ensures respect to the royal recommendation.
[10] [These facts, originally suggested by Bunsen at Rome to Mr. Greville were afterwards used
by him as the basis of his argument for the establishment of diplomatic relations with the Court of
Rome in his book on the ‘Policy of England to Ireland,’ published in 1845.]

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June 5th, 1830
Yesterday morning called on M. de la Ferronays, but only saw him for
a minute, for the Austrian Ambassador arrived, and I was obliged to go. He
is in great alarm as well as sorrow at the appointment of M. de Peyronnet[11]
and the aspect of affairs in France. He told me that he had so little idea of
this appointment that he would have guessed anybody rather than that man,
who was so odious that he had been rejected for three successive places, for
the representation of which he had stood when he was Minister; that Villèle,
with all his influence, could not get him elected; and that in the Chamber of
Peers he had been so intemperate that he had been repeatedly called to
order, a thing which hardly ever occurred; that the Government had
evidently thrown away the scabbard by naming him on the eve of a general
election, and thus offering a sort of insult to the whole nation; that it
rendered his own position here very disagreeable, although his was an
ecclesiastical and not a political mission, and that he in fact considered it
only as an honourable retreat; yet he had written to Polignac the moment
the news reached him, saying that if he considered him as in the least
degree implicated politically with his Government he should immediately
resign, and that if he found by his answer that he looked upon him as in the
remotest degree connected with their measures he should instantly retire. I
saw Dalberg afterwards, who appears to me deeply alarmed. He looks with
anxiety to the Duke of Wellington as the only man whose authority or
interference can arrest the French Ministry in the career which must plunge
France into a civil war, if not create a general war in Europe. He believes
that Metternich and the Austrians are backing up Charles X., and that, in
case of any troubles, they will, in virtue of the Treaty of Chaumont, pour
troops into France. His hope, then, is that the Duke will interpose and
prevent this Austrian interference.
[11] [M. de Peyronnet was the Garde des Sceaux in the Polignac Cabinet: he was considered one
of the most reactionary members of that ill-fated Administration.]

When La Ferronays told Polignac his opinion of the course he was
beginning, the other only said, ‘Mon cher, tu ne connais pas le pays.’ The
King told Dalberg himself that he would rather labour for his bread than be
King of England; that it was not being a king. In his presence, too, he asked
General ——, the Governor of Paris, what was the disposition of the troops,
and he answered, ‘Excellent, sir; I have been in all the casernes, and they

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desire nothing so much as to fight for your Majesty;’ and such words as
these the King swallows and acts upon. Their confidence, audacity, and
presumption are certainly admirable, disdaining any art and management,
and apparently anxious to bring about a crisis with the least possible delay.

June 7th, 1830
Drove about yesterday taking leave of people and places, the former of
which I probably shall, and the latter shall not, see again. I have seen almost
everything, but leave Rome with great regret, principally because I am
POLIGNAC AND VILLÈLE afraid I shall never come again. If I was sure of returning
I should not mind it.
Three o’clock.—Have determined to stay till after the Corpus Domini.
Called on the Cardinal, who received me à bras ouverts, was full of
civilities, and reconducted me to the outward room; talked of the Catholics
and of the anxiety of his Government to see relations established with ours.
I was obliged to go and take leave of him, for Bruti brought me a message
full of politeness and a letter to convey to the Nuncio at Paris. Then to La
Ferronays, who says, as does Dalberg, that he is persuaded it will end by the
recall of Villèle to the Ministry, a compromise that all parties will be glad to
make—that he has had the prudence to decline being a party to Polignac’s
Administration, and when he is called to form one he will have nothing to
say to Polignac.[12] It certainly will be curious if Villèle, after being driven
from the Government with universal execration, and almost proscribed,
should in two years be recalled by the general voice as the only man who
can save France from anarchy and civil war. La Ferronays says that Villèle
is not a great Minister, but a clever man, with great ingenuity and the art of
management. He wishes to be thought like Pitt, who was also obliged to
quit the Ministry, and afterwards resumed it; and he considers Polignac as
his Addington, not that the resemblance holds good in any of the
particulars, either of the men, or the times, or the circumstances.
[12] [M. de Villèle had come to Paris from his country seat in April, and a secret attempt had
been made to bring him back to power. Prince Polignac offered him a seat in the Cabinet, but showed
no disposition to make way for him. The King feared Villèle and preferred Polignac. Yet if M. de
Villèle had then returned to power, he would probably have saved the monarchy and changed the

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course of events in Europe. (See Duvergier de Hauranne, ‘Histoire du Gouvernement parlementaire
en France,’ tome x. p. 468; for a narration of these transactions.)]

June 8th, 1830
Last night to the La Ferronays’, when the Princess Aldobrandini was
so delighted with the anecdote of my horse-shoe that she is gone off to the
Pantheon to look at it. It was a full moon and a clear night, so I went to the
Coliseum, and passed an hour there. I never saw it so well; the moon rode
above without a cloud, but with a brilliant planet close to her; there was not
a breath of air, not a human being near but the soldiers at the gates below,
and the monk above with me; not a sound was heard but those occasional
noises of the night, the bark of a dog, the chimes from churches and
convents, the chirp of a bird, which only served to make silence audible.
Though I have seen the Coliseum a dozen times before, I never was so
delighted with its beauty and grandeur as to-night. No description in poetry
or painting can do it justice; it is a ‘wreck of ruinous perfection,’ whose
charm must be felt, and on such a night as this. The measures which the
Government have taken to save the Coliseum from destruction will
certainly accomplish that end, but its picturesque appearance will be greatly
damaged. There is no part of the ruin which is not already supported by
some modern brickwork, and they are building a wall which will nearly
surround it. If they had been more selfish they would have left it to moulder
away, and posterity to grumble over their stinginess or indifference. I am
always tossed backwards and forwards between admiration of the Coliseum
and St. Peter’s, and admire most that which I see last. They are certainly
‘magis pares quam similes,’ but worth everything else in Italy put together,
except Pæstum.
To-day the spiritual arms of the Church are to be fulminated against a
sinner in a case which is rather curious. There are two brothers who live at a
place called Genezzano, in two adjoining houses, which formerly formed
but one, belonging to the Colonna family, of whom the progenitors of these
men bought it. A short time ago a man came to the brothers, and told them
that in a particular spot on the premises there was a treasure concealed, the
particulars of which he had learned from a memorandum in the papers of
the Colonna family, to which he had got access, and he proposed to

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discover the same to them, if they would give him a part of it. They agreed,
when he told them that under a little column built against a wall they would
find a flat brick, covering a hole, in which was an earthen pot
EXCOMMUNICATION OF A THIEF containing 2,000 ducats in gold. The column was
there, so at night the brothers set to work to take it down, and beneath it
they found the flat stone as described. When one of them (an apothecary)
said to the other that, after all, it was probably an invention, that they should
be laughed at for their pains, and he thought they had better give up the
search, the other (who must be a great flat) said, ‘Very well,’ and they
retired to bed. In the morning the apothecary told the other that in the night
he could not help thinking of this business, and that his curiosity had
induced him to get up and dig on, and that he had actually found the pot,
but nothing in it. The other, flat as he was, could not stand this, and, on
examining the pot, he found marks which, on further investigation, turned
out to be indications of coin having been in it. The thief stuck to his story,
so the dupe complained, and, as the presumption is considered to be
strongly against him, they are going to try what excommunication will do.
It is remarkable that they asked this man if he would swear upon the Host
that he had not found any money, and this he refused to do, though he
continued to deny it and to decline restitution. He was accounted a very
religious man, and these were religious scruples, which, however, were not
incompatible with robbery and fraud. His refusal to swear was taken as a
moral evidence of guilt, and he was to be excommunicated to-day.

June 9th, 1830
Saw Torlonia’s house; very fine, and the only one in Rome which is
comfortably furnished, and looks as if it was inhabited. A great many good
pictures, and Canova’s Hercules and Lycus, which I do not admire. In the
evening to the Convent of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, which is remarkably clean
and well kept. There are forty-five friars (Passionisti), whose vows were not
irrevocable, and, though the cases do not often occur, they can lay aside the
habit if they please. They live on charity. In their garden is a beautiful palm,
one of three which grow in Rome. They have several apartments for
strangers who may like to retire to the convent for a few days, which are
very decently furnished, clean, and not uncomfortable. They were at supper

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when I got there, so I went to look at them. They eat in silence at two long
tables like those in our college halls, and instead of conversation they were
entertained by some passages of the life of St. Ignatius, which a friar was
reading from a pulpit. Their supper seemed by no means despicable, for I
met a smoking frittura which looked and smelt very good, and the table was
covered with bread, fruit, vegetables, and wine. But they fast absolutely
three times a week, and whip themselves (la disciplina) three others. They
teach theology and la dogmatica, and there is a library containing (they told
me) books of all sorts, though their binding (for I only saw them through a
trellis) looked desperately theological. At night to a very fine feu d’artifice
in the Piazza San Lorenzo, which ended the festivities in honour of San
Francisco Caraccioli, whose name appeared emblazoned amidst rockets and
squibs and crackers, and the uproarious delight of the mob. Afterwards to
the Pantheon to see it by moonlight, but the moon was not exactly over the
roof, so it failed, but the effect of the partial light and the stars above was
fine with the torches below half hid behind the columns.

June 10th, 1830
I thought I had seen everything here worth seeing, yet, though I have
been several times to the Capitol, I have somehow missed seeing the
Palazzo dei Conservatori, containing the famous wolf that suckled Romulus
and Remus, in bronze, said to have been struck by lightning (of which it
bears all the marks) the day Julius Cæsar was killed; the boy picking the
thorn from his foot; the statue of the first Brutus; the geese of the Capitol
(which are more like ducks); and the Fasti Consulares. It just occurred to
me in time, and I went there yesterday morning. After dinner to the Villa
Ludovisi with the Dalbergs and Aldobrandinis, which must owe its celebrity
principally to the difficulty of getting access to it. I was extremely
disappointed; Guercino’s ‘Aurora’ is not to be compared to Guido’s; his
‘Day’ and ‘Night’ are very fine, and the ‘Fame’ magnificent, but the ladies
bustled through so rapidly that it was not possible to examine anything. The
gardens are large, but all straight PROCESSION OF THE CORPUS CHRISTI walks and
clipped hedges. The gallery of statues contains three or four fine things, but
they are huddled together and their effect spoilt.

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June 11th, 1830
Whilst the carriage is getting ready I may as well scribble the last day
at Rome. And this morning went at eight to the Palazzo Accoramboni, to
see the procession of the Corpus Domini, and was disappointed. This
Palazzo Accoramboni, in which we were accommodated, belonged to a
very rich old man, who was married to a young and pretty wife. He died
and left her all his fortune, but, suspecting that she was attached to a young
man who used to frequent the house, he made the bequest conditional upon
her not marrying again, and if she did the whole property was to go to some
religious order. She was fool enough (and the man too) to marry, but
clandestinely. She had two children, and this brought the marriage to light.
They therefore lost the property, amounting to 10,000ℓ. or 12,000ℓ. a year;
but the Pope, in his vast generosity, allows her out of it 300 piastres (about
65 ℓ .) a year, and gives a portion of 1,000 piastres (200 ℓ .) to each of the
little girls. It is supposed that she consulted some priest, who urged her to
marry secretly, and then revealed the fact to the order interested. Otherwise
it is difficult to account for their folly.
The magnificence of ceremonies and processions here depends upon
the locality, and the awnings and flowers round the piazza spoilt it all. It
was long and rather tiresome—all the monks and religious orders in Rome,
the cardinals and the Pope, plenty of wax-lights, banners, and crosses, the
crosses of Constantine and Charlemagne. The former is not genuine; that of
Charlemagne is really the one he gave to the See. The Pope looks as if he
was huddled into a short bed, and his throne, or whatever it is called, is ill
managed. He is supposed to be in the act of adoration of the Host, which is
raised before him, but as he cannot kneel for such a length of time, he sits
covered with drapery, and with a pair of false legs stuck out behind to give
his figure the appearance of kneeling. Before him are borne the triple crown
and other Pontifical ornaments. The Guardia Nobile, commanded by Prince
Barberini, looked very handsome, and all the troops en très-belle tenue. All
the Ambassadors and foreigners were in this palace, and from it we flocked
to St. Peter’s, which is always a curious sight on these occasions from the
multitudes in it and the variety of their appearance and occupation—
cardinals, princes, princesses, mixed up with footmen, pilgrims, and
peasants. Here, Mass going on at an altar, and crowds kneeling round it;
there, the Host deposited amidst a peal of music at another; in several

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corners, cardinals dressing or undressing, for they all take off the costume
they wore in the procession and resume their scarlet robes in the church;
men hurrying about with feathers, banners, and other paraphernalia of the
day, the peasantry in their holiday attire, and crowds of curious idlers
staring about. All this is wonderfully amusing, and is a scene which
presents itself in continual variety. Went afterwards and took leave of all my
friends—La Ferronays, Dalbergs, Bunsens, Lovaines, &c.—and at seven, to
my great sorrow, left Rome. But as I do all that superstition dictates, I drank
in the morning a glass of water at the Fountain of Trevi, for they say that
nobody ever drinks of the Fountain of Trevi without returning to Rome.
The road about Narni and Augustus’s Bridge is beautifully picturesque.
I set off directly to the cascade, with which I was as much delighted as I
was disappointed with that of Tivoli. It is difficult to conceive anything
more magnificent than the whole of this scenery.

Florence, June 10th, 1830
The horses were announced, and I was obliged to break off my account
of Terni and resume it here, where I arrived after a tedious journey of forty
hours, from Rome.
Most people are dragged up the mountain by bovi, see the upper part
of the fall, and walk down. But as the bovi were not at hand, I reversed the
usual order, walked to the bottom, and then toiled to the top. The walk,
which is lovely, lies through the grounds of a count, who has a house close
to the Nera (the Nera (Nar) is the river into which the Velino runs, and in
which there is very good trout fishing), where FALLS OF TERNI the Queen of
England once lived for a month. At the different points of view are little
cabins (which would be very picturesque if they were less rudely
constructed) for the accommodation of artists and other travellers. This
gentleman has got a house which he reserves for the use of artists, of which
there are always several on the spot during the summer. They pay nothing
for the accommodation, but each is obliged to leave a drawing when he
goes away; and by this means he has got an interesting collection, of the
scenery of Terni. Nothing can be more accurate, as well as beautiful, than
Byron’s description of the cascade, and it is wonderful in his magnificent

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poetry, how he has kept his imagination within the bounds of truth, and
neither added a circumstance nor lavished an epithet to which it is not
entitled.
Horribly beautiful! but on the verge
From side to side, beneath the glittering morn,
An Iris sits amidst the infernal surge,
Like Hope upon a death-bed, and, unworn
Its steady dyes, while all around is torn
By the distracted waters, bears serene
Its brilliant hues with all their beams unshorn:
Resembling, ’mid the torture of the scene,
Love watching Madness with unalterable mien.
The rainbows are very various, seen from different points: from the
middle, where the river rushes from the vortex of the great fall to plunge
into another, the stream appears to be painted with a broad layer of divers
colours, never broken or mixed till they are tossed up in the cloud of spray,
and mingled with it in a thousand variegated sparkles. Above, an iris
bestrides the moist green hill which rises by the side of the fall; and, as the
spray is whirled up in greater or less abundance, it perpetually and rapidly
changes its colours, now disappearing altogether, and now beaming with the
utmost vividness. The man told me that at night the moon forms a white
rainbow on the hill. There is a delicious but dangerous coolness all about
the cascade. All the scenery about is as beautiful as possible. Just above the
great fall is the Velinus tearing along in the same channel, which was first
made for him by the Roman Consul 2,200 years ago—
Velino cleaves the wave-worn precipice—
and there, the guide told me, some years ago a man threw in a young and
beautiful wife of whom he was jealous. He took her to see the cascade, and
when he got to this part (which is at the end of a narrow path overhung with
brushwood) he got rid of the boys who always follow visitors, and after
some delay returned alone, and said the woman had fallen in. One scream
had been heard, but there was nobody to witness the truth. The mangled
body was found in the stream below. Jealousy is probably common here. As
I was walking a man passed me, going in great haste to the mountain, but I

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paid no attention to him. When I got back I heard that he was escaping from
justice (into the Abruzzi, which are in the Neapolitan dominions), having
stabbed his brother-in-law a few moments before out of jealousy of his
wife. The wounded man was still alive, but badly hurt. The murderer was
un bravo mechanico.
The mountain and the river have undergone many revolutions. The
rock through which the present path is cut has been formed entirely by
petrified deposits, and there are marks in various parts of former cascades,
from which the water has been turned away. Clement VIII. (Aldobrandini)
turned the water into its present course. At the bottom the old outlet of the
Romans is dry, but is marked with that solidity which defies time, like all
their works of this kind. Great part of the road from Terni is beautiful, and
the Papal towns and villages appear to be in much better condition than on
the other road. Some of them perched on the mountains are remarkably
picturesque.

Bologna, June 14th, 1830
I went yesterday morning to Pratolino to see the statue of the genius of
the Apennines, by John of Bologna, six miles from Florence. Pratolino was
the favourite residence of the famous Bianca Capello. The house has been
pulled down. It is in a very pretty English garden belonging to the Grand
Duke, and, I think, amazingly MEZZOFANTI grand, but disgraced by presiding
over a duck pond. They told me that if he stood up (and he looks as if he
could if he would) he would be thirty braccia in height. I went into his
head, and surveyed him on all sides. He ought to be placed over some
torrent, or on the side of a mountain; but as he is, from a little distance
(whence the ducks and their pond are not visible) he is sublime. Myriads of
fire-flies sparkled in every bush; they are beautiful in a night journey,
flitting about like meteors and glittering like shooting stars.
Dined with Lady Normanby at Sesto, set off at half-past eight, and
arrived here at nine this morning. The first thing I did was to present my
letter to Madame de Marescalchi from her sister, the Duchesse de Dalberg,
who received me graciously and asked me to dinner; the next to call on
Mezzofanti at the public library, whom I found at his desk in the great

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room, surrounded by a great many people reading. He received me very
civilly, and almost immediately took me into another room, where I had a
long conversation with him. He seems to be between fifty and sixty years of
age, short, pale, and thin, and not at all remarkable in countenance or
manner. He spoke English with extraordinary fluency and correctness, and
with a very slight accent. I endeavoured to detect some inaccuracy of
expression, but could not, though perhaps his phraseology was occasionally
more stiff than that of an Englishman would be. He gave me an account of
his beginning to study languages, which he did not do till he was of a
mature age. The first he mastered were the Greek and Hebrew, the latter on
account of divinity, and afterwards he began the modern languages,
acquiring the idioms of each as he became acquainted with the parent
tongue. He said that he had no particular disposition that way when a child,
and I was surprised when he said that the knowledge of several languages
was of no assistance to him in mastering others; on the contrary, that when
he set to work at a fresh language he tried to put out of his head all others. I
asked him of all modern languages which he preferred, and which he
considered the richest in literature. He said, ‘Without doubt the Italian.’ He
then discussed the genius of the English language, and the merits of our
poets and historians, read, and made me read, a passage of an English book,
and then examined the etymology and pronunciation of several words. He
has never been out of Italy, or further in it than Leghorn, talks of going to
Rome, but says it is so difficult to leave his library. He is very pleasing,
simple, and communicative, and it is extraordinary, with his wonderful
knowledge, that he should never have written and published any work upon
languages. He asked me to return if I stayed at Bologna. The library has a
tolerable suite of apartments, and the books, amounting to about 80,000
volumes, are in excellent order. One thousand crowns a year are allowed for
the purchase of new books.
The Bolognese jargon is unintelligible. A man came and asked him
some questions while I was there in a language that was quite strange to me,
and when I asked Mezzofanti what it was, he said Bolognese, and that,
though not harmonious, it was forcible and expressive. Afterwards to the
gallery, which contains the finest pictures in Italy, though only a few: the
Guidos and Domenichinos are splendid. I think Domenichino the finest
painter that ever existed.

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June 15th, 1830
Dined yesterday with Madame de Marescalchi, who lives in a great
palace, looking dirty and uncomfortable, except one or two rooms which
they occupy. There is a gallery of pictures, all of which are for sale. Seven
or eight Italians came to dinner, whose names I never discovered. After
dinner she took me to the Certosa, to see the Campo Santo, which is a
remarkably pretty spot, and the dead appear to be more agreeably lodged at
Bologna than the living. I had much rather die here than live here. It is very
unlike the Campo Santo at Pisa, entirely modern, and looks exceedingly
cheerful. Guido’s skull is kept here.
Went again to the gallery, and the Zambeccari Palace, where there are
a few good pictures, but not many. All the pictures in all the palaces are for
sale.
FERRARA In the ferry, crossing the Po (i.e. written in the ferry).—Called
on Madame de Marescalchi to take leave. Set off at half-past one, and in
clouds of dust arrived at Ferrara. It is curious to see this town, so large,
deserted, and melancholy. A pestilence might have swept over it, for there
seems no life in it, and hardly a soul is to be seen in the streets. It is eight
and a half miles round, and contains 24,000 inhabitants, of which 3,000 are
Jews, and their quarter is the only part of the town which seems alive. They
are, as usual, crammed into a corner, five streets being allotted to them, at
each end of which is a gate that is closed at nine o’clock, when the Jews are
shut in for the night. The houses are filthy, stinking, and out of repair. The
Corso is like a street in an English town, broad, long, the houses low, and
with a trottoir on both sides. The Castle, surrounded by a moat, stands in
the middle of the town, a gloomy place. In it lives the Cardinal Legate. I
went to see the dungeon in which Tasso was confined; and the library,
where they show Ariosto’s chair and inkstand, a medal found upon his body
when his tomb was opened, two books of his manuscript poetry; also the
manuscript of the ‘Gerusalemme,’ with the alterations which Tasso made in
it while in prison, and the original manuscript of Guarini’s ‘Pastor Fido.’
The custode told me that in the morning the library was full of readers,
which I did not believe. There are some illuminated Missals, said to be the
finest in Italy. Though the idea of gaiety seems inconsistent with Ferrara,

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they have an opera, corso, and the same round of festivals and merriment as
other Italian towns, but I never saw so dismal a place.

Venice, June 16th, 1830
We crossed the Po, and afterwards the Adige, in boats. The country is
flat, and reminded me of the Netherlands. I was asleep all night, but awoke
in time to see some of the villas on the banks of the Brenta. Of Padua I was
unconscious. Embarked in a gondola at Fusina, and arrived at this
remarkable city under the bad auspices of a dark, gloomy, and very cold
day. It is Venice, but living Venice no more. In my progress to the inn I saw
nothing but signs of ruin and blasted grandeur, palaces half decayed, and
the windows boarded up. The approach to the city is certainly as curious as
possible, so totally unlike everything else, and on entering the Great Canal,
and finding

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The death-like silence and the dread repose
of a place which was once the gayest and most brilliant in the world, a little
pang shoots across the imagination, recollecting its strange and romantic
history and its poetical associations.
Two o’clock.—I am just driven in by a regular rainy day, and have the
prospect of shivering through the rest of it in a room with marble floor and
hardly any furniture. However, it is the only bad day there has been since
the beginning of my expedition. The most striking thing in Venice (at least
in such weather as this) is the unbroken silence. The gondolas glide along
without noise or motion, and, except other gondolas, one may traverse the
city without perceiving a sign of life. I went first to the Church of Santa
Maria dei Frati, which is fine, old, and adorned with painting and sculpture.
At Santa Maria dei Frati Titian was buried. Canova intended a monument
for him, but after his death his design was executed and put up in this
church, but for him, and not for Titian, the reverse of ‘sic vos non vobis.’
Here are tombs of several Doges, of Francis Foscari, with a pompous
inscription. The body of Carmagnola lies here in a wooden coffin; his head
is under the stone on which it was cut off in the Piazza di San Marco. He
was beheaded by one of those pieces of iniquity and treachery which the
Venetian Government never scrupled to use when it suited them. Then to
the Scuola di San Rocco, containing a splendid apartment and staircase, all
richly gilded, painted by Tintoret, and with bronze doors. To the Church of
Santa Maria della Salute, containing a very rich altar-piece of precious
stones, which is locked up, and produced on great occasions; and in the
sacristy three fine pictures by Titian. To the Church of St. Mark and the
Doge’s Palace—all very interesting, antique, and splendid. But the
Austrians have modernised some of the rooms, and consequently spoilt
them. They VENICE have also blocked up the Bridge of Sighs, and the reason
(they told me) is that all the foreigners who come here are so curious to
walk over it, which seems an odd one for shutting it up. The halls of
audience and of the different councils are magnificently gilded, and contain
some very fine pictures.
The Hall of the Council of Ten (the most powerful and the most
abominable tribunal that ever existed) has been partly modernised. In the

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Chamber of the Inquisitors of State is still the hole in the wall which was
called the ‘Lion’s Mouth,’ through which written communications were
made; and the box into which they fell, which the Inquisitors alone could
open. There were ‘Bocche di Lioni’ in several places at the head of the
Giant’s Staircase, and in others. The mouths are gone, but the holes remain.
Though the interior of the Ponte di Sospiri is no longer visible, the prisons
are horrible places, twenty-four in number, besides three others under water
which the French had closed up. They are about fourteen feet long, seven
wide, and seven high, with one hole to admit air, a wooden bed, which was
covered with straw, and a shelf. In one of the prisons are several
inscriptions, scrawled on the wall and ceiling.
Di chi mi fido, mi guardi Iddio,
Di chi non mi fido, mi guardo io.
Un parlar pocho, un negar pronto,
Un pensar in fine può dar la vita
A noi altri meschini.
Non fida d’alcuno, pensi e tacci
Se fuggir vuoi di spioni, insidie e lacci.
Il pentirti, il pentirti, nulla giova
Ma ben del valor tuo far vera prova.
There are two places in which criminals, or prisoners, were secretly
executed; they were strangled, and without seeing their executioner, for a
cord was passed through an opening, which he twisted till the victim was
dead. This was the mode pursued with the prisoners of the Inquisitors; those
of the Council were often placed in a cell to which there was a thickly
grated window, through which the executioner did his office, and if they
resisted he stabbed them in the throat. The wall is still covered with the
blood of those who have thus suffered. From the time of their erection, 800
years ago, to the destruction of the Republic nobody was ever allowed to
see these prisons, till the French came and threw them open, when the
people set fire to them and burnt all the woodwork; the stone was too solid
to be destroyed. One or two escaped, and they remain as memorials of the
horrors that were perpetrated in them.

Page 410

June 17th, 1830
This morning was fine again, and everything looks gayer than
yesterday. From the Rialto to the Piazza di San Marco there is plenty of life
and movement, and it is exactly like Cranbourne Alley and the other alleys
out of Leicester Square. While Venice was prosperous St. Mark’s must have
been very brilliant, but everything is decayed. All round the piazza are
coffee houses, which used to be open and crowded all night, and some of
them are still open, but never crowded. They used to be illuminated with
lamps all round, but most of these are gone. One sees a few Turks smoking
and drinking their coffee here, but they are all obliged to dine and sleep in
one house, which is on the Grand Canal, and called the Casa dei Turchi. I
went this morning to the Chiesa Scalzi, San Georgio Meggiore, Redentore,
SS. Giovanni e Paolo, and the Gesuiti. The latter is the most beautiful
church I ever saw, the whole of it adorned with white marble inlaid with
verd antique in a regular pattern. SS. Giovanni e Paolo has no marble or
gilding, but is full of monuments of Doges and generals. To the Manfrini
Palace for the pictures. The finest picture in the palace is Titian’s
‘Deposition from the Cross,’ for which the Marchese Manfrini refused
10,000 ducats. A Guido (Lucretia) and some others. Tintoret was no doubt a
great genius, but his large pictures I cannot admire, and Bassano’s still less.
Titian’s portrait of Ariosto is the most interesting in the collection. To the
Arsenal, which is three miles in circumference, and a prodigious
establishment. In the time of the Republic there were nearly 6,000 men
employed in it, VENICE in that of the French 4,000, now 800. The old
armoury is very curious, full of ancient weapons, the armour of Henry IV.
of France, and of several Doges, Turkish spoils, and instruments of torture.
The Austrians have made the French much regretted here. It is since the last
peace that the population of Venice has diminished a fourth, and the palaces
of the nobles have been abandoned. There is no commerce; the Government
spend no money, and do nothing to enliven or benefit the town (there has
not yet been time to see the effect of making it a free port). The French
employed the people, and spent money and embellished the place. They
covered over a wide canal and turned it into a fine street, and adjoining it
they formed a large public garden, which is a delightful addition to the
town. Till the French came the bridges were dangerous; there was no
balustrade on either side, and people often fell into the water. They built

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side walls to all of them, which was the most useful gift they could bestow
upon the Venetians.
This morning I asked for the newspapers which came by the post
yesterday, and found that they had not yet returned from the police, and
would not be till to-morrow. Before anybody is allowed to read their
newspapers they must undergo examination, and if they contain anything
which the censor deems objectionable they detain them altogether. After
dinner I went to the public gardens, and into a theatre which is in them;
there is no roof to it, and the acting is all by daylight, and in the open air. I
only arrived at the end, just in time to see the deliverance of a Christian
heroine and a very truculent-looking Turk crammed down a trap-door, but I
could not understand the dialogue. Nothing certainly can be more
extraordinary or more beautiful than Venice with her adjacent islands, and
nothing more luxurious than throwing oneself into a gondola and smoothly
gliding about the whole day, without noise, motion, or dust. At night I went
to a dirty, ill-lit theatre, to see the ‘Barbiere di Seviglia,’ which was very ill
performed. There was a ballet, but I did not stay for it.

June 18th, 1830
To the Church of St. Mark, and examined it. It is not large, but very
curious, so loaded with ornament within and without, and so unlike any
other church. The pavement, instead of being flat, is made to undulate like
the waves of the sea. All the sides are marble, all the top mosaic, all the
pavement coloured marble in exquisite patterns. There is not a single tomb
in it, but it wants no ornament that the wealth and skill of ages could supply.
Climbed up the tower to see Venice and the islands; a man is posted here
day and night to strike the hours and quarters on a great bell, to ring the
alarm in case of fire in any part of the city. It is a very curious panorama,
and the only spot from which this strange place can be completely seen. In
the Grimani Palace there are some Titians (not very good) of Grimani
Doges, and others of the family; the famous statue of Agrippa, which
Cardinal Grimani brought from Home, and a ceiling by Salviati of Neptune
and Minerva contending to give a name to Athens. In the Pisani Palace, a
fine picture of P. Veronese, ‘Darius’s Family at the Feet of Alexander.’[13]

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The Barbarigo Palace has never been modernised, has kept all its original
form and decorations. It is full of Titians, all very dirty and spoiling. The
finest is the ‘Magdalen,’ which is famous. The Royal Academy, called the
Scuola della Carità, contains a magnificent collection of the Venetian
school.
[13] [This fine work is now in the National Gallery, London.]

In I forget which church is the ‘Martyrdom of St. Peter’ by Titian, so
like in composition the same subject by Domenichino at Bologna that the
one is certainly an imitation of the other (Titian died in 1576; Domenichino
was born in 1581). There is the same sort of landscape, same number of
figures, and in the same respective attitudes and actions, and even the same
dress to each. In the hall of the Academy are preserved Canova’s right hand
in an urn, and underneath it his chisel, with these words inscribed: ‘Quod
amoris monumentum idem gloriæ instrumentum fuit.’ There is also a
collection of drawings and sketches by various masters; some by M. Angelo
and some by Raphael.

Vicenza, June 19th, 1830
This morning went again to St. Mark’s to examine the
VINCENZA AND PADUA
library and the palace, which I could hardly see the other day, it was such,
gloomy weather. The library is open to everybody, but with a long list of
rules, among which silence is particularly enjoined. The custos librorum is a
thorough Venetian; talked with fond regret of the splendour of the Republic,
and is very angry with Daru for his history. The Hall of the Great Council,
containing the portraits of the Doges (and Marino Faliero’s black curtain),
is splendid, and adorned with paintings of Paul Veronese, Bassano, Tintoret,
and Palma Giovane. At twelve o’clock I got into the gondola and left Venice
without the least regret or desire to return there. The banks of the Brenta
would be very gay if the villas were inhabited, but most of them are shut up,
like the palaces at Venice. There is one magnificent building, formerly a
Pisani palace, which belongs to the Viceroy, the Archduke Rainer.
Padua is a large and rather gloomy town. They say it is beginning to
flourish, having been ruined by the French, and that, since their downfall,

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the population has increased immensely. The University contains 1,400
scholars. It contained 52,500 in the time of the French, and in the great days
of Padua 18,000. I went to look at the outside of the building, which is not
large, but handsome. The old palace of the Carraras is half ruined, and what
remains is tenanted by the commandant of the place. The old Sala di
Giustizia, which, is very ancient, is now a lumber room, and they were
painting scenes in it. Still it is undamaged, and they call it the finest room in
Europe, and perhaps it is. It is 300 feet long, 100 wide, and 100 high. At one
end of it is the monument and bust of Livy, the latter of which they pretend
to have found here; they also talk of his house and the marbles, &c., that
have been dug up in it, which they may believe who can. The Cathedral has
nothing to boast of, except that Petrarch was one of its canons, and in it is
his bust, put up by a brother canon. I had not time to go to the churches.
The whole road from Fusina to this place is as flat as the paper on
which I am writing. I really don’t believe there is a molehill, but it is
extremely gay from the variety of habitations and the prodigious cultivation
of all sorts. Vicenza is one of the most agreeable towns I ever saw, and I
would rather live in it than in any place I have seen since Rome. It is
spacious and clean, full of Palladio’s architecture; besides the Palazzo della
Ragione, a very fine building, there are twenty-two palaces built by him in
various parts of the town. They show the house in which he lived. From the
Church of Santa Maria del Monte, a mile from the town, there is a
magnificent view, and the town itself, under the mountains of the Tyrol, and
the end of a vast cultivated plain, looks very inviting and gay. There is a
Campo di Marte, a public walk and drive, and from it a covered walk
(colonnade) half a mile long up to the church on the hill. One of the most
remarkable things here is the Olympic Theatre, which was begun by
Palladio and finished by his son. It is a small Grecian theatre, exactly as he
supposes those ancient theatres to have been, with the same proscenium,
scenes, decorations, and seats for the audience. There appeared to me to be
some material variations from the theatre at Pompeii. In the latter the seats
go down to the level of the orchestra, which they do not here, and at
Pompeii there is no depth behind the proscenium, whereas here there is very
considerable. It is, however, a beautiful model. The air and the water are
good, and there is shooting, so that I really think it would be possible to live

Page 414

here. They talk with horror of the French, and of the two seem to prefer the
Austrians, but peace is better than war, cæteris paribus.

Brescia, June 21st, 1830
This is a particularly nice town, airy, spacious, and clean, and in my
life I never saw so many good-looking women. There is a drive and walk on
the ramparts, where I found all the beauty and fashion of Brescia, a string of
carriages not quite so numerous as in Hyde Park, but a very decent display.
The women are excessively dressed, and almost all wear black lace veils,
thrown over the back of the head, which are very becoming. The BRESCIA AND
MILAN walks on the ramparts are shaded by double rows of trees, and
command a very pretty view of the mountains and country round. This inn
is execrable. I stopped at Verona to see the Amphitheatre, which is only
perfect in the inside, and has been kept so by repeated repairs. It is hardly
worth seeing after the Flavian and the Pompeiian. There is a wooden theatre
in it, where they act, and the spectators occupy the ancient seats. The tombs
of the Scaligeri are admirable, the most beautiful and graceful Gothic; their
castle (now the Castle Vecchio) a gloomy old building in a moat, but with a
very curious bridge over the Po. The Church of St. Zeno is remarkable from
its Gothic antiquity and the profusion of ornament about it of a strange sort.
Here is the tomb of Pepin, erected by Charlemagne, but empty; for the
French, in one of their invasions, carried the body to France. In the
Cathedral is a fine picture of the ‘Assumption of the Virgin’ by Titian. I saw
many Veronese beauties in their balconies, but none quite like Juliet. Her
tomb (or, as they would say at Rome, ‘sepolcro detto di Giulietta’) I did not
see, for it was too far off. I was in a hurry to be off, and there was nobody to
detain me with a tender ‘Wilt thou be gone? It is not yet near’ night. The
road, which is excellent, runs in sight of the Alps all the way, and the Lago
di Garda is excessively pretty.

Milan, June 23rd, 1830
Milan is a very fine town, without much to see in it. The Duomo,
Amphitheatre, Arch of the Simplon, Brera (pictures). There are a few fine

Page 415

pictures in the Brera; among others Guido’s famous ‘St. Peter and St. Paul,’
Guercino’s ‘Hagar and Abraham;’ a row of old columns which were broken
and lying about till the French set them upon their legs; Leonardo da Vinci’s
fresco, which is entirely spoilt. The view from the top of the Duomo is
superb, over the boundless plain of Lombardy with the range of the Alps,
and the Apennines in the distance. I like the Duomo, but I know my taste is
execrable in architecture. I don’t, however, like the mixture of Italian with
the Gothic—balustrades over the door, for instance—but I admire its tracery
and laborious magnificence. Buonaparte went on with it (for it was never
finished), and this Government are completing it by degrees; there will be
7,000 statues on different parts of the outside, and there are already 4,500.
St. Charles Borromeo’s tomb is very splendid, and for five francs they
offered to uncover the glass case in which his much esteemed carcase
reposes, and show me the venerable mummy, but I could not afford it. The
entrance to Milan from Venice, and the Corso, are as handsome as can be.
The Opera is very bad, but the Scala is not open, and none of the good
singers are here.

Varese, June 26th, 1830
Left Milan at six o’clock on the 24th, and got to Como after dark.
Embarked in the steam boat at eight yesterday morning, went as far as
Cadenebbia, where I got out, saw the Villa Sommariva, then crossed over
and went round the point of Bellagio to see the opening of the Lake of
Lecco, turned back to the Villa Melzi, saw the house and gardens, and then
went back to dine at Cadenebbia, and waited for the steam boat, which
returned at four, and got back to Como at half-past six. Nothing can surpass
the beauty of all this scenery, or the luxury of the villas, particularly Melzi,
which is the best house, and contains abundance of shade, flowers, statues,
and shrubberies. The owners live very little there, and principally in winter,
when, they say, it is seldom cold in this sheltered spot. The late Count Melzi
was Governor of Milan under Napoleon, and used to feast the Viceroy here.
He once gave him a fête, and had all the mountain tops illuminated, of
which the effect must have been superb.

Page 416

Evening. Top of the Simplon.—Set off at five from Varese, travelled
very slowly through a very pretty road to Navero, where I crossed the Lago
Maggiore in a boat, and landed at the Isola Bella, which is very fine in its
way, though rather flattered in its pictures. The house is large and
handsome, and there is a curious suite of apartments fitted up with pebbles,
spars, and marble, a suite of habitable grottoes. The garden and terraces are
good specimens of formal grandeur, and as the Count Borromeo’s son is a
botanist, they are full of flowers and shrubs of all sorts and climates. RETURN
TO ENGLAND

Whatever fruits in different climes are found,
That proudly rise or humbly court the ground;
Whatever sweets salute the northern sky
With vernal flowers, that blossom, but to die;
These, here disporting, own the kindred soil,
Nor ask luxuriance from the planter’s toil.
The expense of keeping this place up is immense, but the owner is very
rich. He lives there during August and September, and has fifteen other
country houses. All the island belongs to him, and is occupied by the palace
and gardens, except some fishermen’s huts, which are held by a sort of
feudal tenure. They live there as his vassals, fishing for him, rowing him
about the lake, and their children and wives alone are employed in the
gardens. It was built about 150 years ago by a younger son (a nephew of
San Carlo), who was richer than his elder brother. He was his own architect,
and planned both house and garden, but never completed his designs. The
cost was enormous, but if he had lived and finished it all, he would have
spent four millions more. There is a laurel in the garden, the largest in
Europe, two trees growing from one stem, one nine and the other ten feet
round and eighty high; under this tree Buonaparte dined, as he came into
Italy, before the battle of Marengo, and with a knife he cut the word
‘Battaglia’ on the bark, which has since been stripped off, or has grown out
—so the gardeners said at least. Breakfasted at Baveno, which is the best
inn I have seen in Italy. The road from Baveno is exceedingly beautiful, but
on the whole I am rather disappointed with the Simplon, though it is very
wild and grand; but I am no longer struck with the same admiration at the
sight of mountains that I was when I entered Savoy and saw them for the
first time. I walked the last thirteen miles of the ascent to this place, and

Page 417

found one of the best dinners I ever tasted, or one which my hunger made
appear such.

Geneva, June 29th, 1830
Got here last night, and found twenty letters at least. I only think of
getting home as fast as I can. Left the Simplon in torrents of rain, which
lasted the whole day. The descent is uncommonly grand, wild, savage, and
picturesque, the Swiss side the finest. All along the valley of the Rhone fine
scenery; and yesterday, in the most delightful weather I ever saw, the drive
from Martigny, along the lake and under the mountains, is as beautiful as
possible. The approach to Geneva is gay, but Mont Blanc looks only very
white, and not very tall, which is owing to the level from which he is seen.
They tell me it has never ceased raining here, while on the other side of the
Alps hardly a drop has fallen. Only three rainy days while I was in Italy—
one at Venice, one at Rome, and a couple of halves elsewhere.
Evening.—Passed the whole day driving about Geneva, in Bautt’s
shop, and at the Panorama of Switzerland. Dined with Newton, drove round
the environs by Sécheron; a great appearance of wealth and comfort, much
cultivation, no beggars, and none of the houses tumbling down and
deserted. Altogether I like the appearance of the place, though in a great
hurry to get away from it. We had a storm of thunder and lightning in the
evening, which was neither violent nor long, but I had the pleasure of
hearing
Jura answer from her misty shroud
Back to the joyous Alps, that call on her aloud.
Mont Blanc was hid in clouds all day, but the mountains owe me some
grudge. Mont Blanc won’t show his snows, nor would Vesuvius his fires. It
was dark when I crossed the Cenis, and raining when I descended the
Simplon.

Paris, July 3rd, 1830

Page 418

Got here last night, after a fierce journey of sixty-three hours from
Geneva, only stopping two hours for breakfast; but by never touching
anything but bread and coffee I was neither heated nor tired. The Jura
Mountains, which they say are so tedious, were the pleasantest part of the
way, for the road is beautiful all through them, not like the Alps, but like a
hilly, wooded park. It rained torrents when I set out, but soon cleared up,
and when I got to the top of the first mountain, I saw a mass of clouds rise
like a curtain and unveil the whole landscape DEATH OF GEORGE IV. of Geneva,
lake, mountains, and country—very fine sight. We heard of the King’s death
in the middle of the night.

Calais, July 6th, 1830
Voilà qui est fini. Got here last night, and found the Government
packet only goes out five days a week, and not to-day. I am very sorry my
journey is all over, but glad to find myself in England again—that is, when I
get there. I saw Lord Stuart at Paris, just breaking up his establishment and
sending his wife off to the Pyrenees. Heard all the news of London and
Paris, such as it was. Not a soul left in Paris, which was like a dead city. I
only heard that, notwithstanding the way the elections are going against the
Government, Polignac is in high spirits. The King of France was very civil
about the death of our King,[14] and, without waiting, as is usual, for the
announcement of the event by the English Ambassador, he ordered the
Court into mourning upon the telegraphic account reaching Paris.
[14] [George IV. died at Windsor on the 26th of June, 1830.]

Here is the end of my brief but most agreeable expedition, probably
the only one I shall ever make. However this may be, I have gained thus
much at least—
A consciousness remains that it has left,
Deposited upon the silent shore
Of memory, images, and precious thoughts,
That shall not die, and cannot be destroyed.

Page 419

NOTE.
MR. GREVILLE’S CONNEXION WITH THE TURF.
Frequent references will be remarked in these volumes to the
connexion of their author with the Turf, which was his favourite
amusement, and to his position as an influential member of the Jockey
Club. It may, therefore, be worth while to record in this place the principal
incidents in his racing career; and we are tempted, in spite of the strange
and incorrect phraseology of the writer, to borrow the following notice of
them from the pages of ‘Bailey’s Magazine,’ published soon after Mr.
Greville’s death:—
‘Though the Warwick family have long been identified with the sports
of the field, it is fair to assume that Mr. Greville’s love for the turf came
from his mother’s side, as the Portlands, especially the late Duke, have
always been amongst the strongest supporters of the national sport, and
raced, as became their position in society. That Mr. Greville took to racing
early may be imagined when we state he saw his first Derby in 1809, when
the Duke of Grafton’s Pope won it, beating five others. At that period he
was barely fifteen years of age, and the impression the sight of the race
made upon him at the time was very great, and it was rekindled more
strongly when, in 1816, travelling with his father and mother to Ickworth,
the seat of the Marquis of Bristol, he stopped at Newmarket and saw Invalid
and Deceiver run a match on the heath; and subsequently he saw a great
sweepstakes come off between Spaniard, Britannia, and Pope, which the
latter won. Four years elapse, and, as a proof that the lad we have described
had kept pace with the times, we find him selected to manage the racing
establishment of the late Duke of York, on the death of Mr. Warwick Lake.
The first step taken by Mr. Greville on being installed in office was to weed
the useless ones and the ragged lot; and with the aid of Butler (father of the
late Frank and the present William Butler) he managed so well that in his
second year he won the Derby for him with Moses. As the Duke’s affairs at
that time were in anything but a flourishing condition, Mr. Greville did not
persuade him to back his horse for much money; still his Royal Highness

Page 420

won a fair stake, and was not a little pleased at the result. He likewise
carried off the Claret with him the following year. With Banker, who was a
very useful horse at all distances, he won for him many good races; and, by
a reference to the “Calendars” of the day, it will be seen the Duke won in
his turn, if he did not carry all before him. To reproduce the names of his
horses now would not be worth while, as from the effluxion of time the
interest in them has ceased. The first animal in the shape of a race-horse
that Mr. Greville ever possessed was a filly by Sir Harry Dimsdale, which
he trained in the Duke’s stable with a few others of no great standing.
‘Circumstances with which the world are familiar rendering the
retirement of the Duke of York requisite, his stud came to the hammer, and
Mr. Greville came to the assistance of his uncle, the Duke of Portland, who
trained with Prince. With the Duke Mr. Greville remained some little time,
and afterwards became confederate with Lord Chesterfield, who was at that
time coming out, and was in great force with his Zinganee, Priam, Carew,
Glaucus, and other crack horses. During this time he had few horses of any
great account of his own, although his confederate had nothing to complain
of in the shape of luck. At the termination of this confederacy Mr. Greville
entered upon another with his cousin, Lord George Bentinck, who, from his
father’s hostility to his racing, was unable to run horses in his own name.
The extent of this stud was so great that we are unable to deal with it at the
same time with the horses of the subject of our memoir, who can scarcely
be said to have come across a really smashing good mare until he met with
Preserve, with whom, in 1834, he won the Clearwell and Criterion, and in
the following year the One Thousand Guineas, besides running second for
the Oaks to Queen of Trumps. A difference of opinion as to the propriety of
starting Preserve for the Goodwood Stakes led to their separation, and for a
time they were on very bad terms, but by the aid of mutual friends a
reconciliation was effected. From what Preserve did for him, Mr. Greville
was induced to dip more freely into the blood, or, as old John Day would
have said, to take to the family, and accordingly he bought Mango, her own
brother, of Mr. Thornhill, who bred him. Mango only ran once as a two-
year-old, when, being a big, raw colt, he was not quick enough on his legs
for the speedy Garcia filly of Col. Peel and John Day’s Chapeau d’Espagne,
and was easily beaten. In the spring Mango made so much improvement
that Mr. Greville backed him for the Derby for a good stake; and had he

Page 421

been able to have continued his preparation at Newmarket, and been vanned
to Epsom, as is the custom in the present day, there is little doubt he would
have won; but having to walk all the way from Newmarket, he could not
afford to lose the days that were thus consumed, and although he ran
forward he did not get a place. That this view of the case is not a sanguine
one is proved by his beating Chapeau d’Espagne, the second for the Oaks,
for the Ascot Derby, and within an hour afterwards bowling over Velure, the
third in that race, for William the Fourth’s Plate. On the Cup Day he
likewise beat the Derby favourite, Rat-Trap, over the Old Mile. At
Stockbridge, in a sweepstakes of 100 sovs. each, with thirteen subscribers,
he frightened all the field away with the exception of Wisdom, whom he
beat cleverly, and then he remained at Dilly’s, at Littleton, to be prepared
for the St. Leger. Having stood his work well, John Day brought over The
Drummer and Chapeau d’Espagne from Stockbridge to try him on
Winchester race-course. Both Mr. Greville and Lord George Bentinck had
reason to be satisfied with what Mango did in his gallop on that morning,
and the latter backed him very heavily for the race—much more so, indeed,
than his owner. Mr. Greville was anxious to have put up John Day, but the
Duke of Cleveland having claimed him for Henriade, he was obliged to
substitute his son Sam, a very rising lad, with nerves of iron and the coolest
of heads. The race was a memorable one, inasmuch as William Scott, who
was on Epirus, the first favourite, fell into the ditch soon after starting, and
Prince Warden running over him and striking him with his hind leg, he
sustained a severe fracture of the collar-bone. Henriade also came down
about a distance from home from a dog crossing the course. John Day,
however, soon righted him, but the contretemps spoilt his chance. At the
stand there were but three in the struggle—The Doctor, Abraham Newland,
and Mango. The two former seemed to be making a match of it, and it
looked impossible for Mango to get up; but a slight opening presenting
itself, which was not visible to the spectators, Sam Day, with a degree of
resolution which justifies the attributes we have before ascribed to him, sent
his horse through with such a terrific rush that his breeches were nearly torn
off his boots, and won by a neck.
‘After the race Lord George, who was a very heavy winner, gave
Honest John 500ℓ. for his trial with the Drummer; the like sum to Sam Day
for having ridden him better than he was ridden in the Derby, and an

Page 422

equivalent proportion to Montgomery Dilly for preparing him better than
Prince for the same race. Mango was afterwards sent to Newmarket for the
St. Leger, and “Craven,” who then edited the “Sporting Magazine,” having
asserted that Mr. Greville had caused it to be reported that Mango was lame
to get him back in the markets for that race, he called on him to apologise
for the statement, which proving, by the volunteered testimony of Lord
George Bentinck, Colonel Anson, and Admiral Rous, to be wholly without
foundation, the writer in question made Mr. Greville the fullest amende
honorable. Mango only won once again as a four-year-old, when he carried
off a sweepstakes of 300 sovereigns at Newmarket, beating Chapeau
d’Espagne and Adrian. Having thus established himself with Dilly, owing to
Mr. Payne, with whom he had become confederate, training at Littleton, Mr.
Greville made no change until Dilly gave up, when he continued his
confidence to his brother William Dilly, who succeeded him on his
retirement from Lord Glasgow.
‘It was some few years before Mr. Greville had another good horse, at
least one that is worth dwelling upon, and Alarm must be considered the
legitimate successor to Mango. This colt Mr. Greville purchased of his
breeder, Captain George Delmé, and tried him good enough to win the
Derby in 1845 in a canter, even in the face of such animals as Idas and The
Libel. But just prior to starting an accident occurred by which all Mr.
Greville’s hopes were destroyed; for The Libel flying at Alarm very
savagely, he jumped the chains, threw Nat who lay for a time insensible on
the ground, and ran away. He was, however, soon caught and remounted,
and although much cut about ran forward enough to justify the idea that but
for his accident he must have won, as no other animal could have got
through the Cambridgeshire with 7st. 10lb. on him so easily as he did in a
field of such quality as he met. In the following year Alarm made some
amends for his Epsom failure, by winning the Ascot Cup, as well as the
Orange Cup at Goodwood, the latter after a terrific race with Jericho. He
also, at Newmarket in the autumn, won three great matches in succession,
viz. with Oakley, the Bishop of Romford’s cob, and Sorella. Going through
the “Calendar,” Cariboo is the next most noteworthy animal we come
across, for it will be recollected he ran second to Canezou for the
Goodwood Cup, having been lent to make running for her. But it is almost
needless to add that, had Mr. Greville known him to be as good as he was,

Page 423

he would have been started on his own account, in which case the cup in all
probability would have gone to Bruton Street instead of to Knowsley.
Continuing our track through the “Calendar,” we light on a better year for
Mr. Greville, in 1852, when he had really two good animals in Adine and
Frantic. With the former, at York, he had perhaps the best week he ever had
in his life, having won both the Yorkshire Oaks and Ebor Handicap with
her, besides beating Daniel O’Rourke with Frantic, who two months before
had carried off the Union Cup for him at Manchester. The following year
Adine did a good thing for him by winning the Goodwood Stakes, and two
years afterwards he again won that race with Quince.
‘Between Adine and Quince’s years came Mr. Greville’s last good
horse, Muscovite, whom he thought impossible to lose the Metropolitan,
and backed him accordingly. He was much put out, however, by old John
Day telling him he had no chance with his mare Virago. At first Mr.
Greville was incredulous at what John told him, and made him acquainted
with the form of Muscovite. This made not the slightest impression on the
old man, who merely went on repeating Mr. Greville must back Virago for
500ℓ., and the value of the advice was proved by the mare beating the horse
very easily. Muscovite’s career for a time was a very unfortunate one, for
when in Dockeray’s stable he was so “shinned” that his chance for the
Goodwood Stakes was completely out, and his trainer, who could not
discover the offender, and who was terribly annoyed at the circumstance,
begged he might be transferred to William Dilly’s, at Littleton. While there
he was betted against for the Cæsarewitch in the same determined manner
as he had been for his other races, and when he arrived at Newmarket, and
stood in Nat’s stables, which were perfectly impregnable, there was no
cessation in the opposition to him, although his trainer told everybody that
unless he was shot on the Heath, which he could not prevent, he would
walk in. This he did, and the crash he produced is still fresh in the public
recollection; but it is creditable to the bookmaker who laid the most money
against him to state that out of 23,000 ℓ . which he lost, he paid 16,000 ℓ .
down on the spot, an act which procured him time for the remainder.
‘Since Muscovite, who is now at the stud at Newmarket, Mr. Greville
has had no animal that has done a really good thing for him, though Anfield
made another determined attempt at the Goodwood Stakes this year; and
having, at Lord Ribblesdale’s sale of General Peel’s horses, purchased

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Orlando, and added him to his establishment at Hampton Court, he has
turned his attention perhaps more to breeding than racing. For some time
his returns were very large, but of late, from the age of Orlando, and from
getting some of his stock so small, they have diminished in amount,
although the old horse looks as fresh as a four-year-old, and preserves all
that fine symmetry for which he was remarkable both in and out of training.
Latterly Mr. Greville, from being the confederate of Mr. Payne, has trained
with Alec Taylor at Fyfield; but with Godding he has generally two or three
at Newmarket.
‘In turning to Mr. Greville in his private capacity we hardly know how
to treat him, for his is a nature that shrinks from having his good deeds
brought before the glare of the public eye. No man, ever so high or low, we
believe, ever sought his advice and assistance in vain; and to no one
individual, probably, have so many and such various difficulties been
submitted. Neither can we remember a new trial or even an appeal
demanded by those who had sought his counsel. Beloved by his friends, and
feared by his opponents, Mr. Greville will ever be considered one of the
most remarkable men that have lent lustre to the English turf.’

Page 425

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Page 426

INDEX.
A B C D E F G H I J K L M
N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Abercromby, Right Hon. James, proposed as Speaker, ii. 333; Master of the
Mint, iii. 95; proposed as Speaker, 201; the Speakership, 204; elected
Speaker, 213
Aberdeen, Earl of, Duchy of Lancaster, i. 124; motion about Belgium, ii.
238
Achmet Pacha, concludes a treaty with Russia, iii. 69
Adair, Right Hon. Sir Robert, sworn in Privy Councillor, i. 136
Addington, Henry Unwin, recalled from Madrid, iii. 14
Address, proposed amendment to the, iii. 217
Adelaide, Queen, ii. 7; at the Ancient Concert, 133; mobbed in the City,
141; audience of, about the crown, 179; coronation of, 190; Lord
Howe, 338; yacht, iii. 99; return of, 125; illness of, 125; supposed to
be with child, 198, 199, 201
Adrian’s Villa, i. 377
Agar Ellis, see Dover, Lord
Alava, General, and the Duke of Cumberland, iii. 275
Albani, Cardinal, influence of, i. 310; conversation with, 373; interview
with, 380
Albano, i. 331
Alexander, Emperor of Russia, death of, i. 78; coronation of, described by
Talleyrand, ii. 185
Allen, Dr., Bishop of Ely, iii. 363
Allen, John, iii. 135; unbelief of, 324

Page 427

Althorp, Viscount, proposed as Chairman of the Finance Committee, i. 120;
Chancellor of the Exchequer, ii. 66, introduces the budget, 114; leader
of the House of Commons, 116, 200; letter to Attwood, 205, 206;
hurries on the Irish Church Bill, 364; as Chancellor of the Exchequer,
iii. 2; arrested by the Sergeant-at-Arms, 56; financial statement, 60;
defects as leader, 62; summons a meeting of the supporters of
Government, 92; resigns, 101; popularity of, 105; Chancellor of the
Exchequer under Lord Melbourne, 113; succeeds his father as Earl
Spencer, 140
Alvanley, Lord, duel with Morgan O’Connell, ii. 257; on Irish affairs, 348
America, dispute with France, iii. 322
Anglesey, Marquis of, recalled, i. 149; entry into Dublin, ii. 99; disputes
with O’Connell, 106
Antwerp, threatened bombardment of, by the Dutch, ii. 321; French army
marches to, 329
Arbuthnot, Right Hon. Charles, nickname ‘Gosh,’ i. 103; conversation with,
on the Duke of Wellington’s Administration, ii. 51; conversation with,
at Oatlands, 170
Arbuthnot, Mrs., death of, iii. 116
Arkwright, Sir Richard, fortunes of iii. 50
Arkwright, Mrs., visit to, iii. 49
Arms Bill, the, ii. l96
Arnold, Dr., proposed for a bishopric, iii. 325
Artevelde, Philip van, iii. 114; discussed at Holland House, 128
Ascot Races, 1831, ii. 147; 1833, 375
Attwood, chairman of the Birmingham Union, ii. 205, 208; proclamation
against, 215
Auckland, Lord, Board of Trade, ii. 66; First Lord of the Admiralty, iii. 88,
113; on the state of affairs, 238; First Lord of the Admiralty in Lord
Melbourne’s second Administration, 256
Augustus, Prince, of Prussia, ii. 319
Austin, Mr. John, his work on Jurisprudence, iii. 138
Austin, Mr. Charles, ii. 306

Page 428

Aylmer, Lord, recalled from Canada, iii. 394; the King’s address to him,
395

Bachelor, valet to the Duke of York and to King George IV., i. 142, 143;
conversation with, ii. 30
Bagot, Lord, conduct to Lord Harrowby, ii. 253
Baiæ, Bay of, i. 341
Baring, House of, ii. 53
Baring, Right Hon. Alexander, offered the Chancellorship of the Exchequer,
ii. 299; proposes a compromise with the ex-Ministers, 300
Baring, Francis, Chairman of the West India Committee, iii. 279
Barnes, Mr., editor of the ‘Times,’ ii. 97, 214; negotiations with, for
supporting the Government, iii. 155, 156, 157 dines with Lord
Lyndhurst, 167, 169 alarm of, at the prevailing spirit, 188
Barri, Madame du, ii. 219
Barry, Dr., sent to Sunderland, ii. 216; report on cholera, 217
Bath, Chapter of the Order of the, i. 254
Bathurst, Earl, Lord President, i. 124; death of, iii. 115; character of, 115
Bathurst, Countess, conversation with, ii. 62
Bathurst, Hon. William, appointed Clerk of the Council, ii. 61, 86; delay in
appointment of, 74; sworn in Clerk of the Council, 94
Bathurst, Lieut.-Colonel Hon. Seymour, death of, iii. 79
Baudrand, General, ii. 33; reception of, 38
Bazaar, in Hanover Square, ii. 383
Beauclerc, Lord Aurelius, dances a country dance with the King, ii. 341
Belgian question, the, settlement of, ii. 314
Belgium, revolution in, ii. 41; affairs of, 44; unsettled state of, 69;
deputation from, 160; fortresses of, 169; invaded by the Dutch, 175;
French army refuses to leave, 181; end of hostilities with the Dutch,
184; Conference, 1832, 321

Page 429

Belmore, Earl of, Governor of Jamaica, i. 140, 147
Belvoir Castle, iii. 46
Benson, Canon, sermon at the Temple Church, ii. 113
Bentinck, Right Hon. Lord William, desires to be appointed Governor-
General of India, i. 59; address to the electors of Glasgow, iii. 339,
343; qualities of, 339; inscription on monument in honour of, 340
Bentinck, Lord Henry, quarrel with Sir Roger Gresley, ii. 148
Bergara, Convention of, iii. 259
Berri, Duchesse de, in La Vendée, ii. 322
Berry, Miss, iii. 58
Berryer, M., iii. 379; appearance of, 380
Best, Right Hon. William Draper, see Lord Wynford
Bethnal Green, distress in, ii. 261
Bexley, Lord, Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, i. 95
Biekersteth, Henry, see Lord Langdale
Blacas, M. de, favourite of Louis XVIII., ii. 305
Black Book, the, ii. 79
Bloomfield, Sir Benjamin, dismissal of, i. 55
Blount, Rev. Mr., sermon, iii. 12
Body-snatchers, ii. 227
Bologna, i. 402
Bonaparte, Emperor Napoleon, in the 100 days, i. 24; campaigns of,
described by Marshal Marmont, ii. 35
Bonaparte, Louis Napoleon, Strasburg attempt, iii. 381
Bonaparte, Joseph, at dinner at Lady Cork’s, iii. 18
Bonaparte, Lucien, introduced to the Duke of Wellington, iii. 11; at dinner
at Lady Cork’s, 18
Boodle’s, dinner at, ii. 124
Bosanquet, Right Hon. Sir John Bernard, sworn in a Privy Councillor, iii.
30; Judge of the King’s Bench, 71
Boswell, ‘Life of Johnson,’ anecdotes lost, ii. 105

Page 430

Boulogne, iii. 388
Bourbon, Duke de, death of, ii. 50
Bourmont, Marshal de, marches on Lisbon, iii. 25
Bourne, Right Hon. Sturges, Secretary of State for the Home Department, i.
95
Bowring, Dr., sent to Paris, ii. 219; satire of Moore on, 219; career of, 220
Bradshaw, Mrs., acting of, at Bridgewater House, ii. 353
Brescia, i. 412
Bretby, visit to, iii. 327; Chesterfield Papers, 327
Bridgewater House, dramatic performances at, iii. 352, 355
Bridgewater Election, iii. 398
Brighton, the Court at, 1832, ii. 334; races, 1835, iii. 284
Bristol, riots at, ii. 208
Broglie, Duke de. conduct of, iii. 386
Brooks’s Club, iii. 320
Brougham, Lord, attack upon, in ‘Quarterly Review,’ i. 16; speech on the
Queen’s trial, 35; letter to the Queen, 57; character of, 117; qualities
of, ii. 18, 33; appointed Lord High Chancellor, 65; discontent of, 65;
social qualities of, 69; anecdote of, 106; quarrel with Sugden, 106;
correspondence with Southey on rewards to literary men, 112; speech
on Chancery Reform, 118; domestic kindness of, 120; origin of
representation of Yorkshire, 125; as Lord Chancellor, 128; at the Horse
Guards, 129; as a judge, 145; at dinner at Hanbury’s brewery, 148; at
the British Museum, 149; claims the old Great Seal, 188; intention of
sitting at the Privy Council, 223; speech on the Russian Loan, 244;
quarrel with Sugden, 312; anecdote of, 314; Bill for creating a new
Court of Appeal, 342; Bill objected to, 344; Judicial Committee of the
Privy Council Bill, 365; sits on the case of Drax v. Grosvenor, 370; as
Chancellor, iii. 22; anecdotes of Queen Caroline, 36; and Sir William
Home, 67; meets Sir Thomas Denman in Bedfordshire, 71; judicial
changes, 71; defence of himself, 72; apology for, 76; speech on Lord
Wynford’s Bill for the observance of the Sabbath, 83; on the Pluralities
Bill, 86; on the Irish Church, 94; and the ‘Times,’ 96; Lord Chancellor
in Lord Melbourne’s Administration, 113; and Lord Westmeath, 119;

Page 431

conduct in the Westmeath case, 119, 124; versatility of, 121; lines
applied to, 121; Greek epigrams, 121; ambition of, 122; in Scotland,
133; communicates to the ‘Times’ the fall of Lord Melbourne’s first
Administration, 145; resigns the Great Seal, 156; takes leave of the
Bar, 156; asks for the Chief Baronship, 157; anecdote, 232; conduct of,
in the case of Swift v. Kelly, 260, 267; on the London University
Charter, 261; judgment in the case of Swift v. Kelly, 274; on the
Corporation Bill, 286; violence in the House of Lords, 303; illness of,
329; and Macaulay, 337, 338; at Queen Victoria’s first Council, 408
Brummel, ‘Beau,’ i. 282
Brussels, disturbances at, ii. 40
Buccleuch, Duke of, subscription to election expenses, iii. 182
Budget, the, 1831, ii. 113
Buller, James, death of, ii. 59
Bülow, Baron von, on English affairs, iii. 211
Bulwer, Sir Edward Lytton, iii. 348
Bunsen, Baron, i. 315; career of, 327; on Roman affairs, 389
Burdett, Sir Francis, returned for Westminster, 1837, iii. 398
Burghersh, Lord, at Florence, i. 299; amateur opera, 301
Burghersh, Lady, intercedes for a prisoner at the Old Bailey, ii. 85
Burghley, party at, iii. 53
Burke, Right Hon. Edmund, writings of, iii. 209; compared with
Mackintosh, 314
Burke, Sir G., conversation with, on O’Connell, ii. 111
Buxton, Fowell, dinner at the brewery, ii. 148
Byng, Right Hon. George, Lord of the Treasury, iii. 95
Byron, Lord, Moore’s Life of, i. 272; character of, 273

Cambridge, H.R.H. the Duchess of, reception of, i. 2
Cambridge, University of, petition for the admission of Dissenters to the,
iii. 72, 75

Page 432

Campbell, Sir John, Solicitor-General, ii. 333; Attorney-General, iii. 141
Canada, affairs in, iii. 350
Canning, Right Hon. Sir Stratford, Ambassador at St. Petersburg, ii. 352,
357; anecdote of, iii. 39; offered the Governor-Generalship of Canada,
234
Canning, Right Hon. George. Foreign Secretary, i. 55; correspondence with
the King on taking office, 59; forms an Administration (1827), 93, 95;
death of, 103; anecdotes of, 104; industrious habits of, 106; memoirs
of, 263, 272; despatch in verse, 326; sagacity of, ii. 42; conversation
with the King, 102; correspondence with the Duke of Wellington, 103;
coldness to the Duke of Wellington, 103; anecdote of, 125; negotiation
with the Whigs, 170; influence over Lord Liverpool, 172; in favour
with the King, 172; on Reform, iii. 135; and King George IV., 137
Canning, Lady, visit to, ii. 101; authorship of pamphlet, iii. 40
Canning, Mr. Charles, offered a Lordship of the Treasury, iii. 202
Cannizzaro, Duchess of, iii. 11; crowns the Duke of Wellington, 406
Canterbury, Archbishop of, indecision of the, ii. 250, 262, 263; importance
of support of the, 252, 253
Canterbury, Viscount, declines to go to Canada, iii. 234
Capo di Monte, i. 335
Capua, i. 360
Cardinals, the, i. 309
Carlisle, Earl of, Lord Privy Seal, i. 95; iii. 88
Carlists, the, in Spain, iii. 66
Carlos, Don, in London, iii. 98
Carlow election, iii. 348
Carnarvon, Earl of, refuses to move the address in the House of Lords, iii.
202
Caroline, Queen, return of, i. 28; trial of, 31, 35; anecdote of, iii. 37
Carvalho, Minister of Finance to Dom Pedro, iii. 93
Catacombs, the, see Rome
Catholic emancipation, i. 163, 172, 174

Page 433

Catholic Relief Bill, excitement concerning the, i. 180; debates on, see
Lords and Commons
Cato Street Conspiracy, the, i. 26
Cayla, Madame du, i. 71; dinner at the Duke of Wellington’s, 214;
Béranger’s verses on, 215; favourite of Louis XVIII., ii. 306
Cenis, the Mont, i. 287
Champollion, Jean François, death of, ii. 307
Chapeau de Paille, the, purchase of, ii. 125
Chapel, near Holland House, unable to be consecrated, iii. 200
Charles I., King, head of, discovered at Windsor, ii. 168; executioner of, iii.
132
Charles X., King, of France, arrival of in England, ii. 31; at Lulworth
Castle, 33; off Cowes, 34
Charlotte, Queen, illness of, i. 2, 3
Charlotte, H.R.H. the Princess, anecdotes of, ii. 319
Chartres, H.R.H. the Duc de, arrival of, i. 208
Chatham, Earl of, death of, iii. 316
Chatsworth, hospitality at, i. 237; charade at, 238; party at, ii. 51
Chesterfield Papers, the, iii. 327
Chobert, the ‘Fire King,’ i. 276
Cholera, the, in Russia, ii. 57; account of, 150; preventive measures against,
154, 216; effect on trade of, 156; spread of, 161; alarm about, 169; at
Berlin, 192; at Sunderland, 208, 210; at Marseilles, 221; on the
decline, 224; near Edinburgh, 240; in London, 258, 259; in Bethnal
Green, 261; account of, 278; diminution of, 285; in Paris, 287; alarm
in London, 309, 311
Christina, Queen, of Spain, iii. 66, 72; reported flight of, 360; courage of,
365
Christmas trees, introduced by Princess Lieven at Panshanger, i. 259
Church Bill, the, Committee on, iii. 199
Church Reform, iii. 206
City, the, address to the King, ii. 126; illumination in, 140; election, 1835,
iii. 184, 186, 187; anxiety in the money-market, 373, 376

Page 434

Civil List, the, excess of expenditure on, i. 253; for debates on, see
Commons, House of
Clanricarde, Marquis of, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 78
Clarence, H.R.H. the Duke of, Lord High Admiral, i. 95; removal of, from
the office of Lord High Admiral, 138, 140. See William IV.
Cobbett, William, trial of, ii. 158; returned for Oldham, 335; takes his seat,
351; and Sir Robert Peel, 373
Cochrane, Lord, at Florence, i. 301; villa near Florence, 302
Codrington, Sir E., interview with the Duke of Wellington, i. 179
Coercion Bill, the, introduced, ii. 359
Colchester Election, iii. 112
Commons, House of; Alien Bill, i. 1; Dr. Halloran’s petition, 14; debate on
grant to the Duke of York, 18; debates on Queen Caroline, 30, 32, 38;
Small Notes Bill, 79; debates on Catholic Relief Bill, 91, 133, 166,
191; division on Catholic Relief Bill, 185; Catholic Relief Bill read a
third time, 203; Regency and Civil List, ii. 45; debate on the Evesham
election, 25; debate on the Civil List, 110; announcement of the
Reform Bill, 110; Pension List, 111; debate on Ireland, 112; Budget of
1831, 113; proposed reductions, 118; introduction of the first Reform
Bill, 121; debates on the Reform Bill, 123, 125; debate on the Timber
duties, 130; debate on the Reform Bill, 131; division on the Reform
Bill, 132; Government defeated, 135; scene in the House, 135; second
reading of the Reform Bill, 156; Wine duties, 160; Reform Bill,
Schedule A, 170; second Reform Bill, 227; debate on, and second
reading of the second Reform Bill carried, 228; Reform Bill supported
by the Irish Members, 239; division on the Russian Loan, 240; division
on the sugar duties, 267; Reform Bill passed, 270; debates, 296;
violent scene in debate on petition of the City of London, 299; Irish
Tithe question, 308; debate on, 309; debate on the Address, 353; Irish
Church Reform, 354; aspect of the reformed House, 360; debate on
Slave Emancipation, 371; vote of confidence in the Ministers, 376;
division on the Irish Church Bill, 381; vote against sinecures, iii. 13;
division on Apprenticeship Clause of West India Bill, 16; disorganised
state of the House, 17; Pension List, 60; business of the House, 61;
debate on the Corn Laws, 68; debate on admission of Dissenters to the

Page 435

University, 75; debate on Repeal of the Union, 80; Pension List, 80;
debate on Portugal, 82; Poor Law Bill, 83; debate on Irish Tithe Bill,
98, 99; gallery for reporters, 205; debate on the Speakership, 214;
debate on the Address, 221; debate and division on amendment to the
Address, 223; Malt Tax, 224; debate on appointment of Lord
Londonderry, 225; Dissenters’ Marriage Bill, 230; Government beaten
on Chatham election, 234; state of parties in the House, 234; debate
and division on Irish Church question, 240; uproar in the House, 243;
Government defeated on Irish Tithe Bill, 246; debate on Irish Church
Bill, 281; position of the House, 288, 291; conflict with the House of
Lords, 225; debate and division on the amendment to the Address, 334;
effect of division, 336; Opposition defeated, 347; division, 359; Irish
Corporation Bill, 388; insult to Lord Lyndhurst, 389; debates on Irish
Tithe Bill, 391; abandonment of the appropriation clauses, 393
Como, i. 414
Conroy, Sir John, ii. 190; iii. 3
Conservative Club, dinner at, ii. 327; speeches, 327
Constantine, the Grand Duke, accident to, i. 259; death of, ii. 164
Convention signed between France, England, and Holland, ii. 375
Conyngham, Marquis of, Postmaster-General, iii. 88, 113
Conyngham, Marchioness of, i. 46; wears a Crown jewel, 48; Court
intrigues, 207
Conyngham, Lord Francis, i. 50
Coprogli, History of the Grand Vizier, iii. 115
Cornelius, painter, ii. 149
Coronation, the, of William IV. decided on, ii. 156; preparations for, 157,
163, 165; estimates for, 181; disputes over the arrangements for, 187
Cottenham, Lord, Lord High Chancellor, iii. 328
Cotton, Sir Willoughby, suppresses the insurrection in Jamaica, ii. 262; on
affairs in Jamaica, 380
Council, Clerk of the, Mr. Greville sworn in, i. 44; after the accession of
William IV., ii. 12; Lord Grey’s Administration sworn in, 71; for the
proclamation against rioters, 73; recorder’s report in, 85; clerks of the,
87; scene at Council for a new Great Seal, 188

Page 436

Council, Privy: suttee case before the, ii. 307; embargo on Dutch ships, 343;
meeting of the, on the London University petition, iii. 80; counter
petition of Oxford and Cambridge, 80
Council, Cabinet: the first of Lord Melbourne’s Administration, iii. 120; the
first of Sir Robert Peel’s Administration, 174
Covent Garden Theatrical Fund Dinner, i. 205
Coventry, glove trade, ii. 224
Cowley, Abraham, lines from ‘Ode to Solitude,’ ii. 272
Cowper, Earl, at Panshanger, ii. 229
Cowper, Countess, at Panshanger, ii. 229
Cowper, William, Life of, by Southey, iii. 134
Cradock, Colonel, sent to Charles X., ii. 37
Crampton, Sir Philip, Irish story, i. 243
Craven, Earl of, disperses a mob, ii. 77; on the proposed new Peers, 232
Craven, General the Hon. Berkeley, suicide of, iii. 350
Crawford, William, member for the City of London, iii. 188
Creevey, Mr., i. 235
Croker, Right Hon. John Wilson, edition of ‘Boswell’s Life of Johnson,’ ii.
105; reviews lost, 106
Cumberland, H.S.H. the Duke of, opposition to Catholic Relief Bill, i. 180;
intrigues at Court, 222; insults Lady Lyndhurst, 222, 223; quarrel with
Lord Lyndhurst, 224; disputes concerning the office of ‘Gold Stick,’ ii.
5, 21
Cumberland, H.P..H. the Duchess of, i. 2
Cuvier, Baron, death of, ii. 307

Dalberg, Duke de, letter on European affairs, ii. 44
Dawson, Right Hon. George Robert, speech on Catholic Emancipation, i.
138, 200; sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 71

Page 437

De Gazes, Duke, favourite of Louis XVIII., ii. 305; Ambassador to the
Court of St. James, 306
Dedel, M., Dutch Minister at the Court of St. James, iii, 32
Denbigh, Earl of, Chamberlain to Queen Adelaide, ii. 342; sworn in Privy
Councillor, 352
Denman, Lord, correspondence with the King, i. 156; sworn in a Privy
Councillor, ii. 329; Lord Chief Justice, 330; qualities of, 331; meeting
of, with Lord Brougham, in Bedfordshire, iii. 71; raised to the Peerage,
74
Derby Dilly, the, iii. 236, 237, 253
De Ros, Lord, in Rome, i. 368
De Ros, Colonel, the Hon. Arthur John Hill, death of, i. 81; character of, 82
Dickenson, Captain, trial of, by court-martial, i. 235
Diebitsch, Marshal, death of, from cholera, ii. 154
Dino, Duc de, arrest of the, i. 255
Dino, Duchesse de, ii. 57; on the state of France, 195
Discontent throughout the country, ii. 108
Disraeli, Benjamin, projects for sitting in Parliament, iii. 170
Dissenters’ Marriage Bill, iii. 207, 230. For debates on, see Commons,
House of
Dorsetshire election, 1831, ii. 203, 207; crime in, iii. 77
Dover, Lord, resigns the Woods and Forests, ii. 109; created a Peer, 150;
death of, iii. 4; character of, 4; Life of Frederick II., 6; book on the
Man in the Iron Mask, 6
Down, deanery of, iii. 70
Drax v. Grosvenor, case of, ii. 224; lunacy case, 369; decision on, 375; final
meeting on, 377
Drummond, Henry, mission to the Archbishop of York, iii. 333
Dublin Police Bill, iii. 333
Dudley, Earl of, Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, i. 95, 124; dinner to
Marshal Marmont, ii. 38; eccentricity of, 271, 272
‘Duke of Milan,’ quotation from the, i. 178

Page 438

Dulcken, Madam, performs before the Judicial Committee, iii. 325
Duncannon, Viscount, iii. 104; called to the House of Lords, and Secretary
of State, 109; sworn in, 112; Home Secretary, 113; on O’Connell, 117;
at a fire in Edward Street, 117; on the state of affairs, 196;
Commissioner of Woods and Forests under Lord Melbourne, 256
Duncombe, Hon. Thomas Slingsby, maiden speech of, i. 128; petition from
Barnet, ii. 255; guilty of libel, iii. 9; at Hillingdon, 123
Durham, Earl of, quarrel with Lady Jersey, ii. 119; influence over Lord
Grey, 222; attack on Lord Grey at a Cabinet dinner, 226; rudeness of,
269; return from Russia, 333; violence of, 333; created an earl, 365
Dwarris, Sir Fortunatus, dinner at the house of, ii. 359

East, Sir E. Hyde, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 155
Eboli, Duchesse d’, ball at Naples, i. 335
Ebrington, Viscount, moves a vote of confidence in the Government, ii.
202, 204
Ebury, Lord, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 78
Egremont, Earl of, at Petworth, ii. 336; wealth of, 337; hospitality to the
poor, iii. 84
Eldon, Earl of, audience of King George IV., i. 197; speech at Apsley
House, ii. 198; career of, 378; tribute to, iii. 42
Election, General, in 1830, ii. 20, 29; in 1831, 139, 141, 142, 145; in 1832,
335; in 1835, iii. 184, 189, 191, 193; results of, 195; in the counties,
198; result, 201
Eliot, Lord, return of, from Spain, iii. 259; conversation with Louis
Philippe, 259
Ellenborough, Earl of, Lord Privy Seal, i. 124; letter to Sir John Malcolm,
271; on West India affairs, ii. 350; on Egypt, 351; speech on admission
of Dissenters to the University, iii. 73
Ellesmere, Earl of, Irish Secretary, i. 146

Page 439

Ellice, Right Hon. Edward, iii. 104; and the Colchester election, 112;
Secretary for War, 113; in Paris, 379
Elliot, Frederic, letter from Canada, iii. 325
Epsom races, 1831, ii. 143; in 1833, 373
Erskine, Right Hon. Thomas, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 223; Chief
Judge in Bankruptcy, 223
Escars, Duchesse d’, at a party given by the Duke of Wellington, i. 214
Este, Sir Augustus d’, behaviour of, ii. 194
Esterhazy, Prince Paul, conversation with, ii. 40; on Belgian affairs, 189; on
the state of England, iii. 32; on affairs in Europe, 370; conversation
with, 373
Europe, state of, ii. 126; in 1831, 187; in 1836, iii. 370
Evans, General de Lacy, iii. 265; reported death of, 359
Evans, the incendiary, arrest of, ii. 70
Exeter, Bishop of, correspondence with Lord Melbourne, ii. 97; interview
with Lord Grey, 205; talents of, 287; ambition of, 289

Falck, Baron, ii. 15, 41
Ferdinand, Emperor, of Austria, iii. 374
Fergusson, Right Hon. Cutlar, Judge Advocate, iii. 95
Ferrara, i. 405
Fieschi conspiracy, iii. 286
Fingall, Earl of, created a Baron of the United Kingdom, ii. 150
Finsbury election, 1834, Radical returned, iii. 100
Fitzclarence, Colonel George, see Munster, Earl of
Fitzclarence, Lord Frederick, resigns appointment at the Tower, ii. 362
Fitzclarence, Lord Adolphus, picture of, ii. 179
Fitzclarence, Lord Augustus, at Ascot, ii. 147; picture of, 176
Fitzclarence, Lady Augusta, marriage of, iii. 363
Fitzgerald, Right Hon. Vesey, i. 150

Page 440

Fitzherbert, Sirs., death of, iii. 396; documents of, 396
Flahault, Madame de, anecdotes of Princess Charlotte, ii. 319; salon of, in
Paris, iii. 381
Fleury, Cardinal, ii. 347
Florence, i. 299; sights of, 300; society at, 302; sculpture, 300, 301;
pictures, 303; Grand Duke, 303
Foley, Lord, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 84; Lord-Lieutenant of
Worcestershire, 84; at St. James’s, 297
Fonblanque, Albany, iii. 348
Forester, Right Hon. Colonel Cecil, resigns his appointment as Groom of
the Bedchamber, ii. 118
Forfar election, 1835, iii. 197
Fox, Mrs. Lane, accompanies the Prince of Orange to Gravesend, ii. 133;
receives the Cabinet Ministers, iii. 140
Fox, Right Hon. Charles James, described by Talleyrand, ii. 344
Fox, W.J., Unitarian minister, sermon, iii. 43
France, state of affairs in, i. 284; appearance of the country, 287; impending
crisis in 1830, 369; events in 1830, ii. 17; revolution, 19; Duke of
Orleans ascends the throne, 26; political prospects, 26; reconstruction
of the Constitution, 28; army ordered to Belgium, 178; army in
Belgium, 181; seizure of Portuguese ships, 182, 184; republican
tendencies of, 187; state of the country, 1831, 195; weakness of the
Government of Louis Philippe, 322; dispute with America, iii. 322;
state of the country, 382
Francis, Sir Philip, handwriting of, i. 234
Franklin, Benjamin, ii. 185
Franz Joseph, Archduke, iii. 374
Frascati, convent at, i. 305; dinner at, 305; visit to, 390

Gallatin, Albert, i. 257
Gambier, Lord, proxy of, ii. 286

Page 441

Garrick, David, anecdotes of ii. 316
Gell, Sir William, at Rome, i. 372, 375
Geneva, i. 415
Genoa, i. 292; palaces, 293, 295; churches, 294; tomb of Andrew Doria,
296
George III., death of, i. 23; will, 64; jewels and property, 65; dislike of the
Duke of Richmond, iii. 129
George IV., illness of, i. 23; at the Pavilion, 49; interview with, 91; health
and habits of, 143; violent dislike to the Catholic Relief Bill, 153, 181;
character of, 155; personal habits of, 189; interview with the Lord
Chancellor, the Duke of Wellington, and Sir Robert Peel, 201; health
of, 206; racing interests of, 212; anecdotes concerning, 216; eyesight
affected, 233, 236; courage of, 236; conduct in reference to Mr.
Denman, 250; illness of, 368; death of, 417; funeral of, ii. 4; sale of
wardrobe, 23; details of last illness, 30; anecdotes concerning, 189
Gérard, Marshal, reported resignation of, ii. 45; ordered to Belgium, 178
Gibson, John, R.A., at Rome, i. 383
Gladstone, William Ewart, West India Committee, iii. 280
Glenelg, Lord, President of the Board of Trade, i. 124; Board of Control, ii.
66, iii. 113; Colonial Secretary in Lord Melbourne’s second
Administration, 256; and the King, 276
‘Glenfinlas’ performed at Bridgewater House, iii. 353, 355
Glengall, Earl of, comedy by the, i. 249
Glengall, Countess of, ii. 85
Gloucester, H.R.H. the Duke of, ii. 8
Goderich, Viscount, Small Notes Bill, i. 79; Secretary of State for Colonial
Affairs and War, 95; sent for by the King, 107; scene at Windsor, 108;
Administration of, formed, 108; resignation of, 115; returns to office,
116; Ministry dissolved, 120; Colonial Secretary, ii. 66; Lord Privy
Seal, 365; created an earl, 367; invested with the Order of the Garter,
367
Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, death of, ii. 307
Goodwood, ii. 182; in 1833, iii. 20

Page 442

Gorhambury, party at, ii. 188
‘Goriot, Le Père,’ iii. 378
Goulburn, Right Hon. Henry, Chancellor of the Exchequer, i. 124
Graham, Right Hon. Sir James, First Lord of the Admiralty, ii. 66; elevation
of, 90; remarks on, 91; resignation of, iii. 88; declines to join the Peel
Administration, 176; conservative spirit of, 249; on the crisis of 1835,
249; joins the Opposition, 272
Grange, The, attacked by a mob, ii. 68
Grant, Right Hon. Charles, see Glenelg, Lord
Granville, Earl, Ambassador in Paris, iii. 385
Granville, Countess, i. 10; quarrel with M. Thiers, iii. 380
Greece, policy of the English Government towards, i. 255
Greenwich, dinner at, iii. 1
Grenville, Thomas, conduct during the riots of 1780, iii. 129
Gresley, Sir Roger, quarrel with Lord H. Bentinck, ii. 148
Greville, Charles, sen., death of, ii. 318
Greville, Mrs., ‘Ode to Indifference,’ ii. 319
Greville, Algernon, private secretary to the Duke of Wellington, iii. 163
Grey, Earl, hostility to the Government, i. 100; forms an Administration,
1830, ii. 64, 66; First Lord of the Treasury, 66; at dinner at Lord
Sefton’s, 69; nepotism of, 78; character of, 88; relations with Lord
Lyndhurst, 88; lays the Reform Bill before the King, 109; weakness of
Government in the House of Commons, 116; remarks on
Administration of, 137; invested with the Order of the Garter, 146; at
dinner at Hanbury’s Brewery, 149; attacked on his foreign policy, 178;
on Belgian affairs, 178; attacked by Lord Durham, 226; proposed new
Peers, 230; altered conduct of, 232; reluctance to make new Peers,
247; conversation with, 248; interview with Lord Harrowby and Lord
Wharncliffe, 259; minute of compromise with Lord Harrowby and
Lord Wharncliffe, 260; speech on Ancona, 269; speech at the close of
the Reform debate, 288; continued efforts for a compromise, 291;
Government defeated in committee, 293; resignation of Administration
of, 294; resumes office with his colleagues, 300; remarks on the
members of the Administration of, 322; embarrassment of

Page 443

Government, 369; instance of readiness of, iii. 10; on Portuguese
affairs, 21; compared with the Duke of Wellington, 73; changes in the
Administration of, 88, 90, 91; situation of, in the crisis of 1834, 91;
letter to Lord Ebrington, 92; weakness of the Government, 97;
resignation of, 101; refuses the Privy Seal, 112; desires to retire, 124;
dinner to, at Edinburgh, 135; events subsequent to retirement of, 145;
intrigue, 145; conservative spirit of, 249; audience of the King, 251;
dissatisfaction of, 352
Grey, Sir Charles, Governor of Jamaica, sworn in a Privy Councillor, iii.
271
Grote, George, returned for the City of London, iii. 188
Guixot, Monsieur, reported resignation of, ii. 45; eminence of, iii. 379
Gully, Mr., account of, ii. 335; returned for Pontefract, 336
Gunpowder Plot, papers relating to, i. 161

Haddington, Earl of, Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, iii. 181
Halford, Sir Henry, report on the cholera, ii. 137
Hampden, Dr. Regius Professor of Divinity at Oxford, iii. 341, 342
Hanbury’s Brewery, dinner at, ii. 148
Happiness, reflections on, iii. 293
Hardinge, Right Hon. Sir Henry, on the prospects of the Tory Government,
iii. 167; on the King and Lord Melbourne, 168
Harrowby, Earl of, Lord President, i. 95; speech on Reform, ii. 206;
interview with Lord Grey, 224; circular to the Peers, 242, 248;
interview with Lord Grey, 259; discussions on letter of, 262; letter
shown to Lord Grey, 264; the ‘Times’ on the letter of, 264, 265;
patriotic conduct of, 275; declines to vote on Schedule A, 281;
character of, iii. 52; subscription to election expenses, 182
Harrowby, Countess of, iii. 52
Hartwell, visit to, ii. 345
Harvey, Whittle, committee, iii. 112; speech of, at Southwark, 188

Page 444

Harwich election, 1835, iii. 186
Health, formation of a board of, ii. 154
Henry II., King, and Thomas à Becket, iii. 130
Henry VIII., King, coffin of, found at Windsor, ii. 168
Herbert, Sydney, Secretary to the Board of Control, iii. 194
Herculaneum, i. 349
‘Hernani,’ ii. 154
Herries, Right Hon. John Charles, scene at Council, i. 108; discussions on
appointment of, 110; ill-will of, towards his colleagues, 121; Master of
the Mint, 124
Hertford, Marchioness of, funeral of, iii. 79
Hess, Captain, ii. 319, 320
Heurteloup, Baron, before the Judicial Committee, iii. 332
Heythrop, riot at, ii. 77
Hill, Mr., Irish members’ squabble, iii. 55
Hobhouse, Right Hon. Sir John Cam, speech on the Reform Bill, ii. 123;
Secretary of War, 243; resigns Irish Secretaryship and seat for
Westminster, ii. 368; on the state of affairs, iii. 195; Board of Control,
in Lord Melbourne’s second Administration, 256
Holland, the King of, invades Belgium, ii. 175; state of, 200; conduct of the
King of, 314; the King refuses to give up Antwerp, 321, 329; obstinacy
of the King, 324; bankrupt condition of, iii. 32
Holland, Lord, at Panshanger, ii. 47; Duchy of Lancaster, iii. 113; anecdotes
related by, 131; on Reform, 135; on Mr. Canning, ib.; anecdotes, 335;
on Mr. Fox, ib.; contempt for the Tory party, 336
Holland, Lady, fancies of, ii. 331; and Spencer Perceval, iii. 331
Holland House, dinner at, ii. 245; conversation at, 316; Allen and Macaulay,
317; sketch of, 331; conversation at, iii. 127, 129; literary criticisms,
130; Lord Melbourne’s conversation, 131; dinner at, 132; news of the
fall of Lord Melbourne’s Administration, 147; party spirit at, 192
Holmes boroughs, ii. 140
Hook, Theodore, improvisation of, iii. 119, 197; singing of, 197
Home, Sir William, Attorney-General, ii. 333; and Lord Brougham, iii. 67

Page 445

Hortense, Queen, at Frascati, i. 305
Horton, Wilmot, lectures at the Mechanics’ Institute, ii. 97
Howe, Earl, dismissal of, ii. 203; Queen’s Chamberlain, 319; and Queen
Adelaide, 331; correspondence about the Chamberlainship, 339
Howick, Viscount, Under-secretary, ii. 78; in office, iii. 254; civility of the
King to, 255; Secretary of War, 256; acrimony of, 312; interview with
Spencer Perceval, 330; on the position of parties, 360
Hudson, Sir James, page of honour, ii. 339
Hume, John Deacon, Assistant-Secretary to the Board of Trade, i. 223; ii. 49
Hume, Joseph, extreme Radical views of, ii. 361; speech on the
Orangemen, iii. 344; deputation to Lord Melbourne, 357
‘Hunchback, The,’ ii. 285
Hunt, Henry, speech of, ii. 112; speech of, against the Reform Bill, 134
Huskisson, Right Hon. William, President of the Board of Trade, i. 95;
dispute in the Cabinet, 120; joins the new Government, 122; Colonial
Secretary, 124; resignation of, 131; Lord Melbourne’s opinion of, ii.
46; death of, 47; character of, 49; funeral of, 51

Incendiarism in the country, ii. 84
Ireland, trials in, i. 239; dissatisfaction in, ii. 76; unpopularity of
Government changes in, 89; state of, 112, 114; education in, 267, 271;
tithes, 309; Church difficulties in, 323
Irish Church, abuses in, iii. 9; the Irish Church Bill dangerous to the
Government, 86; differences in the Cabinet, 89; difficulties of the Irish
Church question, 240, 253; opinions of Lord Melbourne on the, 269.
For debates on the Irish Church Bill, see Lords, House of, and
Commons, House of
Irish Tithe Bill, thrown out, iii. 117; divisions on the, 246; conduct of the
Government, 298; difficulties of, 353, 354; abandonment of the
Appropriation Clause, 355
Irving, Edward, service in chapel, iii. 40; the unknown tongues, 41; sermon
of, ib.; interview with Lord Melbourne, 129

Page 446

Irving, Washington, i. 249
Istria, Duchesse d’, beauty of, iii. 381

Jacquemont’s Letters, iii. 115
Jamaica, insurrection in, ii. 262; Mr. Greville, Secretary of the Island of,
349; petition to the King, 352; affairs of, ib.; anecdote of a slave, 359;
opinion of Sir Willoughby Cotton, 380; office of Secretary to the
Island of, threatened, iii. 266, 268, 275; secured, 279
Jebb, Judge, charge of, at O’Connell’s trial, ii. 109
Jeffrey, Lord, and Professor Leslie, iii. 44
Jersey, Countess of, character of, i. 12; party at the house of, ii. 64; quarrel
with Lord Durham, 119; correspondence with Lord Brougham, 126
Jockey Club, dinner given by the King to the, 1828, i. 134; in 1829, 211
‘John Bull,’ the, newspaper, ii. 97
Johnson, Dr., anecdotes of, ii. 316
Johnstone, Right Hon. Sir Alexander, sworn in a Privy Councillor, iii. 27,
30; at the Judicial Committee, 125
Jones Loyd, Mr., iii. 188
Jones, ‘Radical,’ interview with Lord Wharncliffe, ii. 200
Judicial Committee of the Privy Council, Bill for the establishment of the,
iii. 21; meeting to make regulations for the, 35; first sitting of the, 38;
working of the, 205

Kelly, Mrs., adventures of her daughter, i. 379, 383; case before the Privy
Council, iii. 259, 261, 266, 267; judgment, 274
Kemble, Charles, and his family, iii. 260
Kemble, Miss Fanny, i. 240, ii. 129; tragedy by, 270; in the ‘Hunchback,’
285

Page 447

Kempt, Right Hon. Sir James, Master-General of the Ordnance, sworn in a
Privy Councillor, ii. 84
Kent, H.R.H. the Duchess of, disputes in the Royal Family, ii. 190; and the
Duke of Wellington, ib.; the Regency Bill, 191; salutes to, iii. 3; at
Burghley, 315; quarrels with the King, 366; scene at Windsor, 367;
answer to the address of the City of London, 399; squabble with the
King, 400
Kenyon, Lord, speech at Apsley House, ii. 198
Kinnaird, Lord, created a Baron of the United Kingdom, ii. 150
Klopstock, Friedrich Gottlieb, anecdote of, iii. 130
Knatchbull, Right Hon. Sir Edward, joins the Peel Government, iii. 176,
177; attack on, 226
Knighton, Sir William, i. 72; influence with the King, 99, 144; behaviour
of, during the King’s illness, ii. 174

Lafayette, Marquis de, resignation of, ii. 99
La Ferronays, M. de, French Ambassador at Rome, i. 307; on the accession
of the Emperor Nicholas, 373; on French politics, 368; civility of, 380,
381; on French affairs, 393, 395
La Granja, revolution of, iii. 364, 365
‘Lalla Rookh,’ at Bridgewater House, iii. 353
Lamb, Sir Frederick, ii. 94; reported letter to the King of France from the
Duke of Wellington, 94
Lambeth Palace, restoration of, ii. 34
Lancashire election, 1835, iii. 198
Langdale, Lord, reply to Lord Brougham, iii. 81; declines the Solicitor-
Generalship, 141; peerage, 328; Master of the Rolls, 328
Lansdowne, Marquis of, Secretary of State for the Home Department, i. 95;
Lord President, ii. 66; dinner to name the sheriffs, 109; on the Reform
Bill, 131; and Lord Brougham, 347; Lord President in both of the
Administrations of Lord Melbourne, iii. 113, 256

Page 448

La Roncière, case of, iii. 202
Laval, M. de, at Apsley House, ii. 15
Law, History of English, iii. 114
Lawrence, Sir Thomas, early genius of, i. 256; death of, 263; character of,
264; funeral of, 268; engagement of, to the Misses Siddons, iii. 50
Leach, Right Hon. Sir John, disappointed of the Woolsack, ii. 68; in the
case of Drax v. Grosvenor, 378
Leigh, Colonel George, ii. 189
Leinster, Duke of, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 155
Leitrim, Earl of, created a Baron of the United Kingdom, ii. 150
Le Marchant, Denis, at Stoke, iii. 21
Lemon, Robert, F.S.A., Deputy Keeper of the State Papers, iii. 44
Lennard, John Barrett, Chief Clerk of the Privy Council Office, ii. 370
Leopold, King, i. 22; desires to ascend the throne of Greece, 265; anxiety to
ascend the throne of Belgium, ii. 153; accepts the throne of Belgium,
158; starts for Belgium, 167; proposes to the Princess Louise of
France, 168; in Belgium, 177; want of confidence in, 177; cold
reception of, at Windsor, iii. 370
Leuchtenberg, Duke of, at Havre, iii. 33; marriage of, 33; letter to Lord
Palmerston, 34; arrival of, 195
Leveson, Lord Francis, see Ellesmere, Earl of
Levee, iii. 213
Lewis, Matthew Gregory, (‘Monk’ Lewis), journals and voyages to the West
Indies, ii. 382; anecdote of, iii. 2; agreement with Mr. Murray for the
Journal, 8
Lichfield, Earl of, at Runton, iii. 51
Lichfield Cathedral, iii. 327
Lieven, Prince, recalled, iii. 87
Lieven, Princess, character of, i. 15; attacks Lord Grey, ii. 261; on the
Belgian question, 266; conversation with, 322; renews her friendship
with the Duke of Wellington, 325; grievances of, 351; interference of,
358; diplomatic difficulties, 357; reception of, at St. Petersburg, iii. 23;
position, of, in Paris, 379

Page 449

Littleton, Right Hon. Edward, i. 11; proposed by Lord Althorp as Speaker,
ii. 333; Secretary for Ireland, 372; and O’Connell, iii. 99; instrumental
in breaking up the Government, 102; political career of, 103; letter to
Lord Wellesley, 103, 110; in communication with O’Connell, 103, 110;
Irish Secretary, 113
Liverpool, Earl of, and the King, i. 25; paralytic seizure, 90; transactions
before the close of Administration of, ii. 173
Liverpool, opening of the railroad, ii. 43, 47; bribery at election, 79
Lobau, Marshal, Commandant-Général, ii. 99
Lodge, the Royal, entertainments at, i. 99
London, speech of Bishop of, iii. 391; University Charter, iii. 80, 81, 237;
meeting of Committee of Council on, 260, 262
Londonderry, Marquis of, death of, i. 51; character of, 52; funeral of, 54
Londonderry, Marquis of, motion on Belgium, ii. 180; attacks Lord Plunket,
266; debate on appointment of, to St. Petersburg, iii. 225; opinion of
the Duke of Wellington, 227; speech of, 228; resignation of, 229
Long, St. John, trial of, ii. 85
Lords, House of, debate of Royal Dukes, i. 177; debate on Catholic Relief
Bill, 199; division on Catholic Relief Bill, 199; debate on affairs in
Portugal, 277; debate on the Methuen Treaty, ii. 118; speech of Lord
Brougham, 118; violent scene in the, 136; debate on Lord
Londonderry’s motion, 180; prospects of the Reform Bill, 193; First
Reform Bill thrown out, 202; attack on the Bishops, 205; new Peers,
230; measures for carrying the second reading of the Second Reform
Bill, 235, 237; division on the Belgian question, 240; Reform Bill,
271; Irish education, 271; debates on second reading of the Reform
Bill, 272, 286; list of proposed new Peers, 283; Reform Bill carried,
287; in Committee on the Reform Bill, 291; debate on conduct of the
Tory party, 303; Russo-Dutch Loan, 315; Government beaten on
Portuguese question, 376; powerlessness of, 377; Local Courts Bill,
382, 384; debate on Local Courts Bill, iii. 7; Government defeated, 7;
Irish Church Bill, 8; Bill for the observance of the Sabbath, 83; debate
on the Irish Church Bill, 94; Poor Law Bill, 114; debate on Irish Tithe
Bill, 117; conduct of the House, 239; debate on Corporation Bill, 286,
290; position of the House, 288, 291; Irish Tithe Bill thrown up, 295;

Page 450

conflict with the House of Commons, 295; state of the House, 307;
debate on Corporation Bill, 308, 351; hostility to the House of
Commons, 359; conduct of the House, 360, 361
Louis XVIII., King, memoirs of, ii. 305; favourites of, 305; at Hartwell, 345
Louis Philippe, King, accession of, ii. 26; conduct of, 27; tranquillises Paris,
99; speech of, 169; averse to French attack on Antwerp, 334;
behaviour of, to the Queen of Portugal, iii. 33; power of, in the
Chamber, 142; courage of, 286; conduct towards Spain, 321, 360, 364;
at the Tuileries, 382; dislike to the Duke de Broglie, 386
Louise, H.R.H. Princess, daughter of King Louis Philippe, ii. 168
Louis, Baron, reported resignation of, ii. 45
Luckner, General, ii. 219
Lushington, Dr., speech of, in the appeal of Swift v. Kelly, ii. 383
Lushington, Sir Henry, and ‘Monk’ Lewis, iii. 2
Luttrell, Henry, character of, i. 10; ‘Advice to Julia,’ 33
Lyndhurst, Lord, Lord High Chancellor, i. 95, 124; quarrel with the Duke of
Cumberland, 223; dissatisfaction at Lord Brougham’s being raised to
the Woolsack, ii. 68; reported appointment to be Lord Chief Baron, 89;
opinion of the Government, 93; Lord Chief Baron, 106; political
position of, 107; anecdote of a trial, 107; retort to the Duke of
Richmond, 139; on the Government, 143; on Sir Robert Peel, 144; on
Lord Brougham, 144; sent for by the King, 294; efforts to form a Tory
Government, 326; judgment in Small v. Attwood, 330; account of the
efforts of the Tory party to form a Government, 340; forgets the
message of the King to Lord Grey, iii. 49; account of transactions
between the King and Lord Melbourne, 150; policy of, 151; on Lord
Brougham, 153; Lord High Chancellor, 156; on the Administration of
Sir Robert Peel, 189; conduct on the Corporation Bill, 288, 292; on the
prospects of the session, 332; on the business of the House of Lords,
333; speech in vindication of conduct, 362; in Paris, 378; insult offered
to, in House of Commons, 389; capacity of, 390; violent speech of,
401
Lyndhurst, Lady, insulted by the Duke of Cumberland, i. 222; conversation
with, ii. 93
Lynn Regis, election, iii. 170, 171, 175, 181

Page 451

Lyons, riots at, ii. 219

Macao, verses on, i. 11, 12
Macaulay, Thomas Babington, speeches on the Reform Bill, ii. 123, 199;
eloquence of, 204; at Holland House, 245; appearance of, 246;
character of, 317; on the Coercion Bill, 363; conversation of, iii. 35;
memory of, 337; eloquence of, compared to Lord Brougham, 338;
inscription on monument erected in honour of Lord William Bentinck,
339
Macaulay, Zachary, iii. 337
Mackintosh, Right Hon. Sir James, speech of, on the criminal laws, i. 19;
conversation of, 241; death of, ii. 307; ‘History of England,’ iii. 139;
remarks on life of, 293, 314; compared with Burke, 314; life of, 316;
abilities of, 316; religious belief of, 324
Maggiore, Lago, i. 414
Maidstone, state of the borough, iii. 184
Maii, Monsignore, i. 367, 375
Malibran, Maria Felicita, in the ‘Sonnambula,’ iii. 12
Mallet, conspiracy of, ii. 186
Malt Tax, the, Government defeated on, ii. 368
Manners Sutton, Sir Charles, G.C.B., proposed as Premier, ii. 326; conduct
of, 341; reappointed Speaker, 343; Knight of the Bath, iii. 30; the
Speakership, 204, see Canterbury, Lord
Mansfield, Lord, speech against the Government, ii. 136; audience of the
King, 138; meeting of Peers, 152
Mansion House, the, dinner at, iii. 178
Marengo, battle-field of, i. 292
Maria, Donna, Queen of Portugal, at a child’s ball, i. 209; proposals of
marriage for, iii. 33; at Windsor, 33; picture of, 195
Marie Amélie, Queen, iii. 383

Page 452

Marmont, Marshal, at Lady Glengall’s, ii. 34; conversation with, ib.;
revolution of 1830, 37; at Woolwich, 38; dinner at Lord Dudley’s, 38
Matteis, trial of, i. 336, 341
Matuscewitz, Russian Ambassador Extraordinary, i. 159; on affairs in
Europe, ii. 176; conduct of, 324; conversation with, iii. 314
Maule, Mr. Justice, at dinner at the Athenæum. ii. 101
Meeting of moderate men, origin of the ‘Derby Dilly,’ iii. 219
Meiningen, château of, model of the, iii. 122; the Queen revisits the, 125
Melbourne, Viscount, Home Secretary, ii. 66; efficiency of, in office, 90;
negotiations with, 104; dissatisfaction of, 245; on the proposed new
Peers, 254; on the Reform Bill, 277; on the members of Lord Grey’s
Administration, 322; sent for by the King, iii. 102; forms an
Administration, 108; letter to the Duke of Wellington, Sir Robert Peel,
and Mr. Stanley, 109; Administration of, 113; anecdote of, 126;
information of, 130; literary conversation of, 131; on Benthamites,
138; theological reading of, 138; fall of Government of, 143; dismissal
of, 144; details of fall of Government, 147; account of dismissal, 150,
168; with the King, 163, 168; with his colleagues, 164; 165, 166;
dispute with Lord Duncannon, 166; speeches at Derby, 170; weakness
of, ib.; second Administration formed, 253; composition of, 256;
theological reading of, 324; appointment of Dr. Hampden, 342; action
against, brought by the Hon. Mr. Norton, 349; result of the trial, 351;
difficulties of the Government, 355
Melville, Viscount, President of the India Board, i. 124
Mendizabal, ability of, iii. 321; dismissal of, 350
Messiah, the oratorio of the, performed in Westminster Abbey, iii. 98
Methuen, Paul, M.P., on supporting the Government, iii. 65; retort of
O’Connell to, 65
Metternich, Princess, anecdote of, iii. 187
Mexico, failure of the Spanish expedition against, i. 249
Meynell, Mr., retires from the Lord Chamberlain’s department, ii. 133
Mezzofanti, i. 403
Middlesex election, 1835, iii. 197
Middleton, party at, i. 12

Page 453

Miguel, Dom. ii. 312, 315, 321; attacks Oporto, 324; fleet captured by
Captain Napier, iii. 9; anecdote of, 26; blunders of, 93
Milan, i. 413
Mill, John Stuart, at breakfast given by Mr. Henry Taylor, ii. 59
Milton, Viscount, at a meeting at Lord Althorp’s, ii. 161
Mirabeau, Count de, Talleyrand’s account of, ii. 384
Miraflores, Count de, Spanish Ambassador in London, iii. 98; doubtful
compliment to Madame de Lieven, 99
Mola di Gaeta, i. 359; Cicero’s villa, 368
Molé. M., Prime Minister of France, iii. 379; abilities of, 380
Montalivet, case of the French refugee, iii. 386
Monti, Vincenzo, anecdote of, ii. 186
Moore, Thomas, i. 239, 245; conversation of, 242; anecdotes, 247; Irish
patriotism of, ii. 98; opinions on Reform, 140; copy of ‘Lord Edward
Fitzgerald,’ 169; satire on Dr. Bowring, 219; compared with Rogers,
iii. 324; quarrel with O’Connell, 346
‘Morning Herald,’ the, moderate Tory organ, ii. 269
Mornington, Countess of, death of, ii. 194
Morpeth, Viscount, Irish Secretary, iii. 256; speech on Irish Tithe Bill, 256
Mosley, Sir Oswald, meeting of moderate men, iii. 220
Mulgrave, Earl of, in Jamaica, ii. 352; refuses the office of Postmaster-
General, iii. 90; Lord Privy Seal, 113; capability of, 255
Municipal Corporation Bill, iii. 263, 284, 290; policy of Tory Peers on the,
283; prospects of the, 295; effects of the, 309, 313; the Bill carried,
310
Munster, Earl of, employed by the King, ii. 10; raised to the Peerage, 143;
Lieutenant of the Tower, 168; sworn in a Privy Councillor, 352
Murat, Achille, ii. 115
Murray, Dr., Roman Catholic Archbishop of Dublin, i. 146
Murray, Sir George, Secretary of State for the Colonial Department, ii. 11
Murray, Lady Augusta, marriage of, ii. 194
Musard’s ball, iii. 384

Page 454

Namik Pacha, Turkish Ambassador, ii. 339
Napier, Sir William, on the state of the country, ii. 108; ‘History of the
Peninsular War,’ iii. 271
Napier, Captain Charles, captures Dom Miguel’s fleet, iii. 9; cause of
capture of a French squadron, 11; anecdote of, 34
Naples, i. 333; sight-seeing at, 334; Court of Justice, 334; manuscripts, 334;
ceremony of taking the veil, 338; sights of, 345, 356; miracle of the
blood of San Gennaro, 353, 355, 364; excursions to Astroni, 356; lines
on leaving, 361
Navarino, battle of, i. 114, 163
Nemours, H.R.H. Duc de, accompanies King Louis Philippe, ii. 99;
nomination to the throne of Belgium declined, 111; in the House of
Commons, iii. 306; at Doncaster, 315
Newmarket, political negotiations at, ii. 290
Nicholas, Emperor, accession of, i. 373; reception of strangers, iii. 24; on
the change of Government in England, 211; speech at Warsaw, 319;
dislike to King Louis Philippe, 387; qualities of, 371
‘Norma,’ the opera of, iii. 2
North, Lord, Letters of George III. to, iii. 129; anecdote of, 132
Northamptonshire election, iii. 326
Northumberland, Duke of, Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, i. 157
Northumberland, Duchess of, resigns her office of governess to the Princess
Victoria, iii. 400
Norton, Hon. Mr., action brought against Lord Melbourne, iii. 349; result of
the trial, 351

Oaks, The. ii. 374; party at, 374
Oatlands, the residence of the Duke of York, i. 4; weekly parties at, 5, 7

Page 455

O’Connell, Daniel, character of, i. 145; at dinner, 203; attempts to take his
seat, 207; elected for Clare, 1829, 223; insult to, ii. 76; in Ireland, 96;
opposition to Lord Anglesey, 98; abilities of, 100; violence of, 106;
arrest of, 107; trial of, 109; position of, 111; pleads guilty, 114;
opposition to Lord Duncannon in Kilkenny, 115; explanation of, 123;
dread of cholera, 309; member for Ireland, 351; violent speech at the
Trades’ Union, 362, 363; attack on Baron Smith, iii. 59; retort to Mr.
Methuen, 65; and the Coercion Bill, 103, 110; in correspondence with
Mr. Littleton, 110; union with the Whig party, 219; power of, 255;
affair with Lord Alvanley, 256; in Scotland, 316; proposed expulsion
from Brooks’s club, 320; quarrel with Moore, 346; Carlow election,
348
O’Connell, Morgan, duel with Lord Alvanley, iii. 256
Old Bailey, trials at, i. 204; ii. 85
Opera House, the English, burnt, i. 277
Orange, Prince of, dinner to the, ii. 57; returns to Holland, 133
Orange, Princess of, robbery of jewels of, i. 267
Orange Lodge, association of, iii. 343
Orangemen, meeting of, ii. 123
Orleans, H.R.H. Duke of, arrival of, i. 208; sent to Lyons, ii. 219; in
England, 373; project of marriage at Vienna, iii. 372; question of
marriage of, 387
Orloff, Count, arrival of, ii. 278; delay in ratification of the Belgian Treaty,
285
Osterley, party at, ii. 187

Padua, i. 411
Pæstum, i. 344
Palmella, Duke of, arrival of in London, ii. 315
Palmerston, Viscount, speech on the Portuguese question, i. 211; Foreign
Secretary, ii. 66; suggests a compromise on the Reform Bill, 211; on
proposed new Peers, 254; on prospects of the Reform Bill, 256;

Page 456

business habits of, iii. 20, 21; unpopularity of, 56; speech on the
Turkish question, 71; Foreign Secretary in Lord Melbourne’s
Administration, 113; unpopularity with the corps diplomatique, 136;
loses his election in Hampshire, 197; as a man of business, 210;
Foreign Secretary, 256; abilities of, 360
Panic, the, 1825, i. 77; on the Stock Exchange, 1830, ii. 43
Panshanger, parties at, ii. 46, 47, 229
Paris, society at, in 1830, i. 283; in July, 416, 417; Marshal Marmont’s
account of events at, in 1830, ii. 36; alarm felt in, 99; change of
Ministry, 133; in 1837, iii. 377; society at, 378, 385; sight-seeing, 381,
383
Park, Judge, anecdotes of, ii. 92; iii. 372
Parke, Right Hon. Sir James, sworn in a Privy Councillor, iii. 21; Baron of
the Exchequer, 71; in the appeal of Swift v. Kelly, 268
Parliament, meeting of, 1830, ii. 53; meeting of, 1831, ii. 110; dissolution
of 1831, 137; opening of, 153; in 1831, 223; dissolution of, 1832, 334;
opening of, 1833, 351; prorogation of, 1833, iii. 27; opening of, 1834,
55; dissolution of, 183; temporary buildings for Houses of, 205;
opening of, 219; in 1836, 334; prorogation of, 1836, 361
Parnell, Sir Henry, turned out of office, ii. 243
Parsons, anecdotes of, ii. 108
Paskiewitch, Marshal, in quarantine, ii. 162
Pattison, James, returned to Parliament for the City of London, iii. 188
Pavilion, The, dinner at, i. 49; completion of, 54
Pease, Mr., and O’Dwyer, iii. 59
Pedro, Dom, expedition of, ii. 312, 315; proposal to combine with Spain, iii.
72; in possession of Portugal, 93
Peel, Right Hon. Sir Robert, Home Secretary, i. 124; speeches on Catholic
Relief Bill, 167, 183; Oxford University election, 1829, 177; defeated,
178; political prospects of, ii. 95, 96; power in the House of Commons,
116; speech on the Reform Bill, 123; inactivity of, on the Reform Bill,
130, 134; complaints of policy of, 141; conduct of, 160; reserve of,
161, 174; excellence in debate, 200; answer to Lord Harrowby, 248,
249; policy of, 264; speech on Irish Tithes, 269; invited to form a

Page 457

Government, 294; refuses to take office, 296; defence of conduct, 304;
conduct during the Tory efforts to form a Government, 327, 328;
conduct compared with that of the Duke of Wellington, 328; character
of, 354; on political unions, iii. 12; in society, 35; position of, in the
House of Commons, 64; collection of pictures, 70; great dinner given
by, 72; speech on admission of Dissenters to the University, 75; policy
of the Administration of, 161; friendship with the Duke of Wellington
renewed, 167; arrival of, from the Continent, 174; formation of
Administration, 177; manifesto to the country, 178; prospects of the
Ministry, 179; qualities of, 189; Toryism of Administration of, 194;
false position of, 208; prospects of Government, 214, 235, 236; talents
of, 224; conduct to his adherents, 230, 244; courage of, 283;
impending resignation of, 242; Government defeated, 246; resignation
of Administration of, 1835, 246, 248; speech on Corporation Reform,
263; on Irish Church Bill, 281; relations with Lord John Russell, 282;
seclusion of, 297; speech on Corporation Reform, 304; consideration
for Lord Stanley, 335; conduct with regard to the Corporation Bill,
340; position of, 358; on the beginning of the new reign, 402
Peel, Sir Robert, sen., account of, ii. 125
Peel, Right Hon. Jonathan, iii. 243
Pemberton, Thomas, ii. 314; in the appeal of Swift v. Kelly, iii. 267, 271
Pembroke, Earl of, i. 250
Pension List, see Commons, House of
Pepys, Right Hon. Sir Christopher, Master of the Rolls, iii. 328. See
Cottenham, Lord
Perceval, Spencer, discourse of, iii, 41; the Unknown Tongue, 41; on the
condition of the Church, 123; apostolic mission to the members of the
Government, 331; at Holland House, 331; apostolic mission of, 333
Périer, Casimir, momentary resignation of, ii. 175; attacked by cholera, 288;
death of, 307
Persian Ambassador, the, quarrel of, with the Regent, i. 21
Perth election, 1835, iii. 197
Petworth House and pictures, ii. 336; fête at, iii. 84
Peyronnet, Comte de, i. 393

Page 458

Phillpotts, see Exeter, Bishop of
Pisa, i. 297
Pitt, Right Hon. William, described by Talleyrand, ii. 345; anecdotes of, iii.
131
Plunket, Lord, Lord Chancellor in Ireland, ii. 90; anecdote of, 107; at Stoke,
iii. 21; Deanery of Down, 70
Poland, contest in, ii. 157
Polignac, Prince Jules de, head of the Administration in France; i. 160, 229,
283; Administration of, 394; behaviour of, ii. 29; letter to M. de Molé,
33; exasperation against, 38, 39
Pompeii, i. 338; excavations at, 343
Ponsonby, Viscount, Minister at Naples, ii. 155; letters of, 172; conduct of,
as Ambassador at Constantinople, iii. 405
Pope, the, audience of Pius VIII., i. 382; Irish appointments of the, iii. 269.
See Rome
Portfolio, the, iii. 327
Portland, Duke of, Lord Privy Seal, i. 95
Portugal, ships seized by the French, ii. 182, 184; affairs in, iii. 25, 79;
bankrupt state of, 93
Powell, Mr., ii. 52
Pozzo di Borgo, Count, ii. 347; views of, on the state of Europe, iii. 182;
Russian Ambassador in London, 201, 203
Praed, Winthrop Mackworth, first speech of, ii. 115; First Secretary to the
Board of Control, iii. 194
Pratolino, i. 402
Prayer, form of, on account of the disturbed state of the kingdom, ii. 99
Proclamation against rioters, ii. 73

‘Quakers’, the, address to King William IV, ii. 17
‘Quarterly Review, The,’ attacks Lord Harrowby, ii. 269, 270; pamphlet in
answer to article, 270

Page 459

Quintus Curtius, iii. 130

Racing, remarks on, ii. 373; anecdote, 374
Redesdale, Lord, letter of, ii. 269
Reform, plan of, ii. 105; remarks on, 207; negotiations concerning, 215,
217, 218
Reform Bill, the, laid before the King, ii. 109; excitement concerning, 124;
carried by one vote, 132; alterations in, 134; Government defeated,
135; remarks on, 180; attitude of the press, 193; prospects of, 199;
negotiations for a compromise, 211; altered tone of the press, 225;
meeting of Peers in Downing Street, 225; measures for carrying the
second reading in the House of Lords, 235, 237, 239, 241; continued
efforts to compromise, 268; finally passed in the House of Commons,
270; continued discussions on, 274; difficulty with Schedule A, 280;
carried in the House of Lords, 287; in committee, 292; passes through
committee, 304; results of, iii. 27, 191. For debates on, see Lords,
House of, and Commons, House of
Reichstadt, Duke of, and Marshal Marmont, iii. 374
Reis-Effendi, the, i. 159
Renfrewshire election, iii. 388
Rice, Right Hon. Thomas Spring, Colonial Secretary, iii. 88, 113;
difficulties with, 253; Chancellor of the Exchequer, 256; incapacity of,
as Chancellor of the Exchequer, 376
Richmond, Duke of, and King George III. at a naval review, iii. 129
Richmond, Duke of, summary of character of, i. 199; Postmaster-General,
ii. 66; refuses the appointment of Master of the Horse, 67; difficulties
with his labourers, 68; at Goodwood, ii. 182; on Reform, 211;
character of, iii. 15; resignation of, 88
Riots, in London, 1830, ii. 55; among the farm labourers, 68; proclamation
against, 73; in the country, 77
Ripon, Earl of, Lord Privy Seal, ii. 66; resignation of, iii. 88. See Goderich,
Viscount

Page 460

Robarts, Mr., dinner given by, iii. 184
Robinson, Right Hon. Frederick John, Chancellor of the Exchequer, i. 79;
See Goderich, Viscount
Rochester election, 183.3, iii. 193
Roden, Earl of, declines the office of Lord Steward, iii. 179, 181
Rogers, Samuel, breakfast given by, ii. 150; compared with Moore, iii. 324
Rolle, Lord, remark to Lord Brougham, iii. 107
Rome, i. 303, 304; St. Peter’s, 303, 321; sight-seeing, 306, 311, 322; the
Sistine Chapel, 309; the cardinals, 309; a cardinal lying in state, 312;
Pompey’s statue, 313; Temple of Bacchus, 313; the Catacombs, 314;
the Pope’s blessing, 316, 324; Holy Week observances, 317; the Grand
Penitentiary, 317, 319; washing of pilgrims’ feet, 320; supper to
pilgrims, 321; Protestant burial-ground, 322; St. Peter’s illuminated,
325; excavations, 327; sight-seeing, 328, 329, 362; aqueducts, 363; the
Scala Santa, 364; St. Peter’s, 366; Library of the Vatican, 367; votive
offering of a horse-shoe, 367, 372; Columbaria, 374; saints, 385; the
Flagellants, 387; relations with Protestant countries, 391; the
Coliseum, 395; story of a thief, 396; convent of SS. Giovanni e Paolo,
397; sight-seeing, 398
Rosslyn, Earl of, Lord Privy Seal, i. 210; Lord President of the Council, iii.
177; dinner for selecting the Sheriffs, 201
Roussin, Admiral, at Constantinople ii. 367
Rovigo, the Duke de, at Rome, i. 325
Rundell, Mr., fortune of, will of, i. 90
Runton Abbey, shooting at, iii. 51; murder in the neighbourhood, 51
Russell, Right Hon. Lord John, introduces the Reform Bill, ii. 121; seat in
the Cabinet, 150; brings in his Bill, 155; letter to Attwood, 205, 206;
willing to compromise, 223; brings on the second Reform Bill, 227;
Paymaster, of the Forces, iii. 113; objected to by the King as leader of
the House of Commons, 160; speech at Totness, 171; on the
Speakership, 205; on Church Reform, 206; first speech as leader of the
House of Commons, 214; letter of, on the Speakership, 218; as leader
of the House of Commons, 221; marriage of, 252; Home Secretary in
Lord Melbourne’s second Administration, 256; introduction of

Page 461

Corporation Reform, 263; relations with Sir Robert Peel, 282; course
to be pursued on the Corporation Bill, 303, 310; speech on the
Orangemen, 344; moderation of, 352; meeting at the Foreign Office,
357, 358; intention of the Government to proceed with their Bills, 397;
speech in answer to Roebuck, 401
Russia, state of, 1829, i. 158; intrigues of, ii. 351; diplomatic relations with,
352; combines with Turkey against Egypt, 366; fleet sent to
Constantinople, ib.; establishes her power in the East, 371; quarrel
with, iii. 44; policy towards Turkey, 48; treaty with Turkey, 69;
relations with Turkey, 183
Russo-Dutch Loan, question of the, ii. 240, 241; origin of the, 244; debate
on the, in the House of Lords, 315
Rutland, Duke of, anti-Reform petition, ii. 263; birthday party, iii. 46

Sadler, Mr., maiden speech of, in opposition to the Catholic Relief Bill, i.
191
Saint-Aulaire, M. de, French Ambassador at Vienna, ii. 187; anecdote of,
187
Saint-Aulaire, Madame de, iii. 187
Saint-Germain, Count de, account of, ii. 186; the ‘Wandering Jew,’ 186
Salerno, i. 344
Salisbury, Marquis of, petition to the King, ii. 231
Saltash, borough of, division on, ii. 170
San Carlos, Duke and Duchess of, i. 8
Sandon, Viscount, moves the Address in the House of Commons, iii. 202;
on Sir Robert Peel, 340
Sandys, Lord, iii. 359
Sartorius, Admiral, petition, iii. 366
Scarlett, Sir James, Attorney-General, i. 210
Scott, Sir Walter, death of, ii. 307
Seaford, Lord, i. 83

Page 462

Sebastiani, Count, French Ambassador to the Court of St. James’s, iii. 180
Sefton, Earl of, dinner to Lord Grey and Lord Brougham, ii. 69; on Lord
Brougham, 148; created a Peer of the United Kingdom, 150; qualities
of, 183
Segrave, Lord, Lord-Lieutenant of Gloucestershire, iii. 322
Senior, Nassau, at Holland House, iii. 138
Session of 1833, review of the, iii. 28
Sestri, i. 297
Seton, Sir Henry, arrival of, from Belgium, ii. 178
Seymour, Lord, withdraws his support from the Government, ii. 124
Seymour, George, Master of the Robes, ii. 50
Seymour, Horace, retires from the Lord Chamberlain’s Department, ii. 133
Seymour, Jane, coffin of, found at Windsor, ii. 168
Shadwell, Right Hon. Sir Lancelot, on legal business, iii. 76
Shee, Sir Martin, elected President of the Royal Academy, i. 269
Sheil, Right Hon. Richard, dispute with Lord Althorp, iii. 55; arrest of, by
the Serjeant-at-Arms, 56; committee, 57, 58; insult to Lord Lyndhurst,
389
Sheridan, Richard Brinsley, iii. 336
Siege of Saragossa, the, iii. 40
Siena, i. 303
Simplon, the, i. 415
Slavery, abolition of, ii. 347; for debates on, see Commons, House of
Smith, Baron, ii. 105; O’Connell’s attack upon, iii. 59, 61, 63
Smith, Sydney, and the siege of Saragossa, iii. 39; and Professor Leslie, 44;
sermon of, in St. Paul’s Cathedral, 166; on Sir James Mackintosh, 317;
dispute of, with the Bishop of London, 395; letter to Archdeacon
Singleton, 395
Smithson, Sir Hugh, ii. 337, 338
Somaglia, Cardinal, i. 312
Somerville, Mrs., iii. 58
Sorrento, i. 352; Benediction of the Flowers, 352

Page 463

Soult, Marshal, sent to Lyons, ii. 219; Prime Minister of France, 324
Southey, Robert, at breakfast given by Mr. Henry Taylor, ii. 59; letter to
Lord Brougham on rewards to literary men, 111
Spain, the Duke of Wellington on affairs in, iii. 47; state of, 55; affairs in,
66, 72; proposal to combine with Dom Pedro, 72; affairs in, 183;
deplorable state of, 359
Spanish Legion, formation of the, iii. 265
Speaker, the, indecision of, ii. 299; disputes on the Speakership, 333; iii.
204
Spencer, Earl, death of, iii. 140
Spencer, Earl, see Althorp, Viscount
Sprotborough, party at, for the races, ii. 50
Staël, Madame de, ‘Considérations sur la Révolution française,’ i. 16;
anecdote of, ii. 186
Stafford House, concert at, iii. 278
Stanley, Right Hon. Edward, Irish Secretary, ii. 66; speech on the Reform
Bill, 123; seat in the Cabinet, 150; speech in answer to Croker, 228;
Secretary for the Colonial Department, 365; at The Oaks, 374;
indecision of, iii. 17; racing interests of, 35; resignation of, 88; in
opposition, 93; ‘Thimblerig’ speech, 100; conciliatory letter to Lord
Grey, 107; disposition of, 165, 167; declines to join Sir R. Peel, 175,
176; speech at Glasgow, 180; formation of the Stanley party, 220;
position of Mr. Stanley, 222; policy of, 228; meeting of party at the
‘King’s Head,’ 237; speech on Irish Church question, 240; character
of, 250; letter to Sir Thomas Hesketh, 265; joins the Opposition, 272;
conduct of, 336
Stanley, Right Hon. Edward John, Under-Secretary of State, iii. 112
State Paper Office, i. 160; iii. 44
Stephen, James, opinions on emancipation, ii. 359
Stephenson, George, on steam-engines, iii. 54
Stewart, Lady Dudley, party given by, ii. 115; accompanies the Prince of
Orange to Gravesend, 133
Stoke, party at, i. 142; ii. 185

Page 464

Strangford, Viscount, sent to the Brazils, i. 140
Strasburg prisoners, acquittal of, iii. 381
Strawberry Hill, party at, i. 247
Strutt, Edward, ii. 59
Stuart de Rothesay, Lord, Ambassador in France, i. 141
Sugden, Right Hon. Sir Edward, quarrel of, with Lord Brougham, ii. 312;
origin of animosity towards Lord Brougham, iii. 22; Irish Chancellor,
178; resignation of, 231; retains his appointment, 234
Sugden, Lady, not received at Court, iii. 231
Sunderland, state of, ii. 216
Sussex, H.R.H. the Duke of, marriage of, ii. 194
Sutherland, Duke of, death of the, iii. 19; wealth, of the, 19
Suttee case, before the Privy Council, ii. 307
Swift v. Kelly, before the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council, iii. 259,
266, 267, 271; judgment, 274

Tallyrand, Charles Maurice de, letter to the Emperor of Russia, i. 23;
Ambassador to the Court of St. James, ii. 44; conversation of, 185;
anecdotes, 185; mot of, 195; dinner with, 222; on Fox and Pitt, 344;
detained in the Thames, 346; on Portuguese affairs, iii. 25; on relations
between France and England, 314; opinion of, of Lord Palmerston,
360; dissatisfaction at his position in London, 386
Tasso, i. 328; bust of, 328
Tavistock, Marquis of, on the prospects of the Liberal party, iii. 43
Taylor, Sir Herbert, conversation with Lord Wharncliffe, ii. 251;
correspondence with, about the Chancellorship, 339
Taylor, Henry, breakfast at the house of, ii. 58; breakfast to Wordsworth,
Mill, Elliot, Charles Villiers, 120; on the abolition of slavery in the
West Indies, 348; ‘Philip van Artevelde,’ iii. 114
Taylor, Brook, mission to Rome, ii. 153
Teddesley, party at, i. 11

Page 465

Tenterden, Lord, death of, ii. 329; character of, 331; classical knowledge of,
331
Terceira, Portuguese expedition to, i. 169, 170
Terni, Falls of, i. 401
Thiers, Adolphe, dinner to, iii. 31; account of, 31; at the head of the French
Government, 66; on interference in Spain, 66; foreign policy of, 364;
social qualities of, 370; quarrel with Lady Granville, 380; courts the
favour of Austria, 387
Thompson, Alderman, difficulties with his constituents, ii. 166
Thomson, Right Hon. Charles Poulett, originates a commercial treaty with
France, ii. 219; Board of Trade, iii. 113, 256; self-complacency of, 330
Thorwaldsen, Albert, at Florence, i. 299, 300
Tierney, Right Hon. George, i. 14; Master of the Mint, 95; death of, 269
‘Times,’ the, on Lord Harrowby’s letter, ii. 264, 265; attacks Lord Grey,
267; Lord Chancellor’s speech, 313; influence of the, 362; and Lord
Brougham, iii. 133; disposition of, to support a Tory Government, 149,
152; terms of support to the Duke of Wellington, 155; power of the,
156, 157; negotiations with Lord Lyndhurst, 171; letter signed
‘Onslow,’ 199
Titchfield, Marquis of, death of, i. 75; character of, 75
Tivoli, i. 375
Tixall, party at, i. 10; Macao, 11
Torrington, Viscount, and the King, iii. 285
Tory party, state of the, ii. 162; meeting at Bridgewater House, iii. 237; state
of the, 306; indifference of members of the, 389
Treaty of Unkiar Skelessi, iii. 45; between Russia and Turkey, 1834, 69; the
Quadruple, for the pacification of the Peninsula, signed 1834, 94
Tree, Ellen, at the City Theatre, ii. 181
Tuileries, the, reception at, iii. 382; ball at, 383; small ball at, 385
Turf, the, reflections on, iii. 139
Turin, i. 291
Turkey, threatened by Russia, i. 228; critical state of, ii. 351; relations with
Russia, iii. 183

Page 466

Tusculum, i. 390
Twiss, Horace, supper party given by, iii. 260

Union, speech of O’Connell on the repeal of the, iii. 80
Unions, proclamation against the, ii. 215; procession of trades, iii. 79
Urquhart, Mr., Secretary to the Embassy at Constantinople, iii. 405

Van de Weyer, Sylvain, Belgian Minister to the Court of St. James, ii. 180
Vaudreuil, M. de, French chargé d’affaires in London, on French affairs, ii.
24
Vaughan, Right Hon. Sir Charles, special mission to Constantinople, iii. 405
Vaughan, Right Hon. Sir John, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 155
Venice, i. 405; sights of, 406, 408, 410
Vernet, Horace, at Rome, i. 325
Verona, Congress of, i. 65; visit to, 413
Verulam, Earl of, petition to the King, ii. 231
Vesuvius, ascent of, i. 350
Vicenza, i. 412
Victoria, H.R.H. the Princess, at a child’s ball, i. 209; first appearance of, at
a drawing-room, ii. 119; at Burghley iii. 315; health of, proposed by
the King, 364; at Windsor, 367; letter from the King, 400; seclusion of,
403; first Council of, 406; proclaimed Queen, 408; impression
produced on all, 409
Villiers, Hon. Hyde, appointed to the Board of Control, ii. 145
Villiers, Hon. George, at the Grove, ii. 105; conversation with the Duke of
Wellington, 105; mission to Paris for a commercial treaty, 219;
Minister at Madrid, iii. 14, 20, 21; on prospects in Spain, 69, 79; letters
of, from Madrid, 321, 360, 365

Page 467

Villiers, Hon. Charles Pelham, ii. 59
Virginia Water, ii. 25; visit to, 30

Walewski, Count Alexander, arrival of, in London, ii. 104
Walpole, Horace, letters to Sir Horace Mann, iii. 2
‘Wandering Jew, The,’ ii. 186
Warsaw, affair at, ii. 95; taken by the Russians, 192
Warwickshire Election, iii. 353, 354
Wellesley, Marquis of, Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, iii. 31; correspondence
with Mr. Littleton, 103, 110; resigns the White Wand, 258
Wellesley, Long, Esq., committed for contempt of court, ii. 166
Wellington, Duke of, account of the battle of Waterloo, i. 39; in Paris with
Blücher, 41; dispute with the King, 51; on affairs of France and Spain,
67; opinion of Bonaparte, 71; mission to Russia, 78; visit to the Royal
Lodge, 102; opinion of Mr. Canning, 107; forms a Government, 1828,
124; resolves to carry the Catholic Relief Bill, 143; correspondence
with Dr. Curtis, 148; ascendency of, in the Cabinet, and over the King,
176; hardness of character of, 191; duel with Lord Winchelsea, 192;
conversation with, on King George IV. and the Duke of Cumberland,
216, 218; prosecution of the press, 233, 258, 260; business habits of,
262; conversation with on the French Revolution, ii. 21; qualities of,
41; confidence in, 45; declaration against Reform, 53; Administration
of, defeated, 61; resignation of, 62; suppresses disturbance in
Hampshire, 75; political character of, 81; reported letter of advice to
the King of France, 94; correspondence with Mr. Canning, 103;
conduct towards the Government, 159; objections to Mr. Canning,
170; dinner at Apsley House, 188; anti-Reform dinner at Apsley
House, 197; remarks upon, 204; memorial to the King, 211;
correspondence with Lord Wharncliffe, 221; obstinacy of, 234; letter
to Lord Wharncliffe, 248; unbecoming letter laid before the King, 252;
reply to Lord Wharncliffe, 253; speech on Irish Education, 272; sent
for by the King, 294; efforts of, to form an Administration, 299;
inability of, to form an Administration, 300; statement of his case, 302;

Page 468

conduct of the Tory party, 302; ill-feeling towards Peel, 325; view of
affairs, 1833, 363; government of French provinces, 363; respect
evinced towards, 372; defence of policy, 379; Speech on the
Coronation Oath, iii. 9, 10; policy on the Irish Church Bill, 10; on
Portuguese affairs, 11, 26; and the Bonaparte family, 26; subsequent
account of attempt to form a Government, 48; compared with Lord
Grey, 73; speech on the admission of Dissenters to the University, 73;
presents the Oxford petition, 79; and the Whigs, 82; installed as
Chancellor of the University of Oxford, 95; First Lord of the Treasury,
and Secretary of State for the Home Office, 149; arrangement for a
provisional Government, 149; at the public offices, 1834, 154; account
of crisis of 1834, 162; inconsistencies of, 172; on the division on the
Speakership, 216; on Lord Londonderry’s appointment, 227; anecdote
of Lord Brougham, 232; on Spain, 270; on the Walcheren expedition,
271; policy of, on the Corporation Bill, 283; letter to the Duke of
Cumberland, 320; speech in answer to Lord Lyndhurst, 362; meeting
of Tory Peers, 397; crowned by the Duchess of Cannizzaro, 406;
quarrel with the Duke of Clarence, 406
Western, Lord, evidence of, iii. 112
West India Body, consternation of the, ii. 350; deputation of the, 350
West India Bill, prospects of the, iii. 13. For debates on the, see Commons,
House of
West Indies, Lord Chandos’s motion on the state of the, ii. 116; project of
emancipation, 347; alarm in the, 352; difficulties attending
emancipation, 360; committee on affairs of the, iii. 266; decision on
the office of Secretary of the Island of Jamaica, 279
Westmeath, Marchioness of, pension, i. 157, 160
Westmeath v. Westmeath, appeal before the Judicial Committee, iii. 119,
124; decision in, 140
Westminster election, 1818, contest, i. 3; in 1819, 17, 19; in 1833, ii. 370; in
1837, iii. 398
Wetherell, Sir Charles, account of, i. 194; speech on the Reform Bill, ii.
123; supports Sir E. Sugden’s motion, 314
Wharncliffe, Lord, interview with Radical Jones, ii. 200; overtures for a
compromise on the Reform Bill, 211; character of, 213; draws up a

Page 469

declaration for signature in the City, 214; disappointment of, 218; final
interview of, with Lord Grey, 220; correspondence of, with the Duke
of Wellington, 221; interview of, with the King on the proposed new
Peers, 231, 233; memorandum laid before the King, 252; as chief of a
party, 289; in communication with Lord Lyndhurst and Lord
Ellenborough, 290; defends his policy, 292; paper on the Tory party,
343; on the prospects of the country, iii. 54; joins the Peel
Government, 175; on the prospects of the session, 341
Whately, Richard, D.D., Archbishop of Dublin, iii. 280
Whig party, state of the, iii. 159; tactics of the, 216; union with O’Connell,
219; symptoms of disunion in the, 221; meeting at Lichfield House,
224; prospects of the, 235
Wicklow, Earl of, attack on the Government, iii. 110
Wilberforce, William, speech of, i. 16; negotiation with Mr. Canning, ii. 125
William IV., King, accession of, ii. 1; dislike of, to the Duke of
Cumberland, 5; behaviour of, 6, 9; at the House of Lords, 11; personal
anecdotes of, 11, 12, 13, 14; dinner at Apsley House, 14; at Windsor,
25; pays the racing debts of the Duke of York, 50; speech on the
change of Government, 72; levee, 74; health of, 106, 108; mobbed on
returning from the theatre, 117; in mourning for his son-in-law, 133; in
the House of Lords, 136; dissolves Parliament, 136; conduct to his
Ministers, 138; at Ascot, 147; opens Parliament, 153; at Windsor, 179;
and the Bishops, 185; divides the old Great Seal, 188; crowned at
Westminster, 190; levee, 192; toasts at dinner at St James’s, 193;
interview with Lord Wharncliffe on creation of new Peers, 233; health
of, 282; reluctance of, to make Peers, 283; adverse sentiments towards
the Whigs, 298; dinner to the Jockey Club, 301; levity of, 302; letter to
the Peers, 303; character of, 307; struck by a stone, 307; country
dance, 341; anecdotes of, 342; state of mind of, 364; letter to the
Archbishop of Canterbury, 382, 383; letter-writing, iii. 2; animosity to
the French, 33; irritability of, 81; conduct of, 84; personal feelings
towards the members of Lord Melbourne’s Administration, 137;
dismissal of Lord Melbourne, 144; speech to the Tory Lords, 148;
provisional appointments, 148; account of difference with Lord
Melbourne, 150; resolution of, to support the Tory Government, 161;
address to the new Ministers, 175; on the state of Persia, 184; whims

Page 470

of, 203; Island of St. Bartholomew, 203; indignation of, at the affair of
Lord Londonderry, 231; distress of, 245; and the Ministers, 251;
personal habits of, 264; speech to Sir Charles Grey, 272; audience to
Lord Durham, 272; hostility towards Lord Glenelg and the Ministers,
276; conduct to the Speaker, 279; scene with Lord Torrington, 285;
speech to the Bishops, 303; speech on the Militia, 311; and the
Duchess of Kent, 313; speech at dinner to the Jockey Club, 351;
Toryism of, 358; joke, 361; speech to the Bishop of Ely, 363; proposes
the health of the Princess Victoria, 364; aversion to his Ministers, 364,
366; speech to Lord Minto, ib.; rudeness to the Duchess of Kent, 366;
scene at birthday party, 367; reception of King Leopold, 370; speech,
1837, 385; address to Lord Aylmer, 394; illness of, 399, 400; letter to
the Princess Victoria, 399; dangerous illness of, 401; prayers offered
up for, 403; death of, 406; kindness of heart of, 410
Williams, Sir John, Justice of the Common Pleas, iii. 71
Winchelsea, Earl of, duel of, with the Duke of Wellington, i. 192; incident
of the handkerchief, 198
Winchester Cathedral, iii. 283
Windham, Right Hon. William, diary of, i. 231; conversation with Doctor
Johnson, 232
Windsor Castle, dinner in St. George’s Hall, ii. 34, 42; dinner during the
Ascot week, 147
Windsor election, mobs at the, iii. 130
Woburn, party at, i. 23; riot at, ii. 77
Wood, Charles, on the Reform Bill, ii. 280
Wood, Matthew, returned to Parliament for the City of London, iii. 188
Worcester, Marchioness of, death of the, i. 47
Worcester Cathedral, iii. 327; monument of Bishop Hough, 327
Wordsworth, William, characteristics of, ii. 120
Wortley, Right Hon. John, Secretary to the Board of Control, i. 271. See
Wharncliffe
Wrottesley, Sir John, motion of, for a call of the House, iii. 8, 13
Wynford, Lord, raised to the Peerage, i. 210; Deputy Speaker of the House
of Lords, 210

Page 471

Wynn, Right Hon. Charles, President of the Board of Control, i. 95;
resignation of, ii. 124

York, H.R.H. the Duke of, character of, i. 5; management of racing
establishment, 44; dislike to the Duke of Wellington, 48, 62; duel with
the Duke of Richmond, 62; anecdotes of King George IV., 73; illness
of, 83, 85; death of, 84; funeral of, 89; letter to Lord Liverpool on the
Catholic question, ii. 104
York, H.R.H. the Duchess of, character of, i. 5; portrait of, 8; illness of, 27;
death of, 34
Young, Thomas, private secretary to Lord Melbourne, iii. 126

Zea Bermudez, iii. 21; dismissal of, 55
Zumalacarreguy, ii. 270

Page 472

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