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Title: The Survey of London

Author: John Stow

Author of introduction, etc.: Henry B. Wheatley

Release date: June 16, 2013 [eBook #42959]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SURVEY
OF LONDON ***

EVERYMAN’S LIBRARY
EDITED BY ERNEST RHYS

TRAVEL AND TOPOGRAPHY

STOW’S SURVEY OF LONDON
WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY
HENRY B. WHEATLEY

the publishers of EVERYMAN’S LIBRARY will be pleased
to send freely to all applicants a list of the published
and projected volumes to be comprised under the
following thirteen headings:

TRAVEL ❦ SCIENCE ❦ FICTION
THEOLOGY & PHILOSOPHY
HISTORY ❦ CLASSICAL
FOR YOUNG PEOPLE
ESSAYS ❦ ORATORY
POETRY & DRAMA
BIOGRAPHY
REFERENCE
ROMANCE

IN FOUR STYLES OF BINDING: CLOTH, FLAT BACK,
COLOURED TOP; LEATHER, ROUND CORNERS,
GILT TOP; LIBRARY BINDING IN CLOTH, &
QUARTER PIGSKIN

London: J. M. DENT & SONS, Ltd.
New York: E. P. DUTTON & CO.

TO
THE
WISE MAN
ALL THE
WORLD’S
A SOIL
BEN JONSON

THE SURVEY
OF LONDON

BY ❦ JOHN
STOW Citizen
of London

LONDON PUBLISHED
by J M DENT & SONS LTD
AND IN NEW YORK
BY E P DUTTON & CO

INTRODUCTION
Stow’s Survey of London, from its first publication in 1598, has taken rank
as the first authority on the history of London, but this very fame has been
the cause of some injury to the unity of the work, owing to the additions of
successive editors, whose words have often been quoted as if they were
written by the original author, although often referring to occurrences long
after Stow’s death.
What the reader of to-day wants, is the original work as it left the hands of
the veteran antiquary, or as nearly as the change of spelling allows, because
this gives him a vivid picture of Elizabethan London—the city in which
Shakespeare lived and worked among a multitude of the men and women of
those “spacious days,” respecting whom we are all eager to learn something
more. The Survey is a masterpiece of topographical literature written by a
Londoner of ripe experience, who was interested in everything that
occurred around him.
Stow founded his work upon documents of great value collected by himself,
and also upon the splendid series of manuscripts belonging to the city of
London, to which he had access as “fee’d chronicler” of the corporation.
The great charm of the book to the general reader is to be found in the
personal touches by which we are informed of changes and incidents which
occurred in Stow’s own experience. Of this special feature several instances
have been singled out, such as the boy fetching milk from the farm attached
to the abbey of the minoresses, for which he paid one halfpenny for three
pints; and the staking out by the tyrannical Thomas Cromwell of part of the
gardens of Stow’s father and others in Throgmorton Street to be added to
his own garden, which after his execution came into the possession of the
Drapers’ Company, and are now covered by Throgmorton Avenue. Stow, in
his description of the monuments of St. Paul’s, alluding to the burial places
of Sir Philip Sidney, Sir Francis Walsingham and Sir Christopher Hatton,
says of the latter “under a most sumptuous monument where merry poet
writ thus—

“Philip and Francis have no tombe,
For great Christopher takes all the roome.”

Henry Holland, in his Monumenta Sepulchralia Sancti Pauli, 1614, tells us
that there is “no doubt but the merry poet was the merry old man Stow
himself.”
During the whole of his life Stow was indefatigable in his work, but he kept
the best wine for the last. The first edition of the Survey of London was
published in 1598, when he was past seventy years of age, but there can be
no doubt that the whole of his previous life was a preparation for his great
work. He always lived in London, and he was interested in every particular
connected with his native city. Nothing of value in its history ever escaped
him, and what he did not personally know, he often obtained information of
from older men than himself. Some of his informants could tell what their
fathers saw, so that their reminiscences often take us back to a long past
time. It is this mixture of the personal remembrances of old men with his
own memory of what he had seen, and his careful examination of places
himself, in corroboration of tradition, which give such special value to his
book.
Stow was always in search of information at first hand, and other authors
were glad to avail themselves of his wide experience. Sir George Buck,
when writing the History of Richard III., availed himself of Stow’s
information that he had talked to old men who remembered that maligned
king as “a comely prince.” Stow’s arrangement of his materials is
admirable, and many modern topographers might imitate him with
advantage. He himself acknowledged that the model for his Survey was his
friend William Lambarde’s excellent Perambulation of Kent, 1576. Some of
his explanations of the names of places, being grounded on historical
evidence, are often of great value, but others are little better than crude
guesses. This is not to the discredit of an author writing in the sixteenth
century, but some modern writers, who ought to have a better knowledge of
the origin of place names, have been unwise enough to quote these as
possible etymologies. Mr. C. L. Kingsford, in his excellent edition of the
Survey, has corrected most of these from trustworthy old documents. Stow
improved his book in the second edition, published in 1603, two years

before his death, but he omitted some passages in the first edition which are
of interest to us, and which are noted in this edition.
Although it is chiefly the Survey which keeps Stow’s memory green in
popular esteem, his other literary productions were highly appreciated by
many distinguished contemporaries. He found a valuable patron in
Archbishop Parker, for whom he edited some old chronicles. Among his
many friends must be named Camden, Lambarde, Savile, Dr. Dee, Robert
Glover, Somerset Herald, and Fleetwood the Recorder, who hung in his
study a portrait of Stow inscribed, “Johannes Stowe, Antiquarius Angliæ.”
The “antiquary” was very proud of this honour, and he told Massingham,
who records the incident in his diary, that he thought himself “worthy of
that title for his pains.”
Stow was born about the year 1525, and came of a good London stock, his
grandfather and father were tallow chandlers, and supplied the church of St.
Michael, Cornhill, with lamp oil and candles. Thomas Stow, the
grandfather, died in 1527, and directed his body “to be buried in the little
green churchyard of St. Michael, Cornhill, nigh the wall as may be by my
father and mother.”
We have no particulars as to John Stow’s schooling, and Mr. Kingsford
points out that his remarks in the “chapter of Schools and other houses of
Learning,” respecting his seeing the scholars of divers grammar schools
repair to the churchyard of St. Bartholomew, Smithfield, to a scholastic
battle of disputation “hardly suggests that he took part in their exercises.”
The general opinion seems to be that he was self-taught, but it is strange
that the son of a fairly well-to-do citizen should not have been a scholar at
one of these free grammar schools. He did not follow his father’s business
as a tallow chandler, but set up for himself as a tailor, in a house by the well
within Aldgate, over which in later times a structure was erected widely
known as Aldgate pump. Tailors have very generally had to put up with
threadbare jokes on their trade, and Stow was no exception to the rule.
Aubrey reports that Sir Henry Spelman said to Sir William Dugdale, “We
are beholding to Mr. Speed and Stow for stitching up for us our English
history,” and Aubrey adds, “It seems they were both tailors.” Stow was
admitted to the freedom of the Merchant Taylors’ Company, on 25th
November 1547, but was never called to the livery or any office in the

company. At the same time he seems to have been highly esteemed, and
was helpful to the company. He became a pensioner about 1578, and
received four pounds a year until mid-summer 1600; this is sometimes
called his “fee” and sometimes his “pension.” At the latter date, when he
had fallen upon evil days, his pension was increased to ten pounds a year.
This information is given by Mr. C. M. Clode, under the heading of “the
loving brother of this mysterie, John Stowe,” in his Memorials of the
Fraternity, 1875.
Stow’s first literary work is one that does him great credit, namely, the 1561
edition of Chaucer’s works, and subsequently he helped his “loving friend”
Speght with notes from “divers records and monuments,” which that friend
used in his edition of Chaucer published in 1597. He then turned to the
publication of the results of his historical studies. In 1565, he brought out A
Summarie of Englyshe Chronicles, which was frequently reprinted, also The
Summarie abridged, first in 1566, and often reprinted. The Chronicles of
England were published in 1580 and not reprinted. The Annals of England
appeared first in 1592, other editions issued by Stow himself in 1601 and
1605. Editions continued by Edmond Howes were published in 1615 and
1631.
The Annals are much of a compilation, but Stow has made them interesting
by the frequent insertion of his own opinions and remarks. The bibliography
of these works is somewhat complicated, but Mr. Kingsford has set forth
the dates and distinctive characters of the different books with much
clearness.
Stow early fell into a discord with the chronicler Grafton, and the two
belaboured one another in print, sometimes having resort to bad puns.
Grafton sneered at the “Memories of superstitious foundations, fables
foolishly stowed together,” and Stow replied by alluding to “empty townes
and unfruitfull grafts of Momus’ offspring.”
Stow’s life was a stormy one, and he had much to endure, both publicly and
in his own family, but his friends helped him through many of his
difficulties. His younger brother Thomas was ungrateful, and a thorn in his
side for many years.
In the early part of 1569 he was brought before the Lord Mayor for having
in his possession a copy of the manifesto of the Spanish Ambassador on

behalf of the Duke of Alva, but he seems to have been able to clear himself.
The same matter was brought before the master and wardens of the
Merchant Taylors’ Company. Mr. Clode remarks respecting this occurrence:
“It is curious to note from the depositions of the several examinants how
very shy of knowing much about the matter they appear to have been. The
knowledge or memory of the nine taylors examined was too frequently
failing them to bring guilt home to any brother of the craft.”
The trouble about the Alva manifesto drew the attention of the Queen’s
Council to Stow’s library, and the Bishop of London (Grindal) was directed
to have his house searched, and in reply the Bishop enclosed to Cecil a
catalogue of “Stowe the taylour his unlawfull bookes,” amongst these are “a
great store of folishe fabulous bokes of old prynt as of Sir Degory, Sir
Tryamore,” etc., “old fantastical popish books printed in the old type.”
Thomas Stapleton’s translation of Bede’s Ecclesiastical History is among
the objectionable books. Nothing, however, came of all this pother.
Stow appears to have been fairly well off for some years of his life, when he
spent a considerable amount of money on the extensive collection of
manuscripts which he gathered together. This library was well known to and
much appreciated by his fellow antiquaries. Many of the important
documents are now in the British Museum and other public libraries.
He gave up his business in order to devote himself uninterruptedly to his
antiquarian labours. Although these labours were much appreciated they
were not profitable, and in consequence his means were very limited in his
later years. His poverty was brought under the notice of James I., who
acknowledged his claims, but instead of giving substantial aid the king
granted letters patent, dated 8th March 1604, authorising John Stow and his
deputies to collect money—the “voluntary contribution and kind gratuities”
of the king’s subjects. This authority brought little money to the chronicler’s
wasted coffers, and it was indeed a pitiful reward for the well-directed
labours of a life-time.
Stow did not long survive this remarkable instance of royal favour. He died
on the 6th April 1605, and was buried in the Church of St. Andrew
Undershaft, Leadenhall Street, where his widow erected a terra cotta
monument to his memory, this, which shows the man as he lived, is one of
the most interesting monuments in the city of a past London worthy.

Edmond Howes, his literary executor, and continuator of his Annals, has
left a vivid picture of the old chronicler, which completes this short notice
of one of the most distinguished “Lovers of London.”
“He was tall of stature, lean of body and face, his eyes small and crystalline,
of a pleasant and cheerful countenance; his sight and memory very good;
very sober, mild, and courteous to any that required his instructions; and
retained the true use of all his senses unto the day of his death, being of an
excellent memory. He always protested never to have written anything
either for malice, fear, or favour, nor to seek his own particular gain or vain-
glory; and that his only pains and care was to write truth. He could never
ride, but travelled on foot unto divers cathedral churches, and other chief
places of the land to search records. He was very careless of scoffers, back-
biters, and detractors. He lived peacefully, and died of the stone colic, being
four-score years of age.”
Stow is greatly to be commended for printing as an appendix to his Survey,
William Fitzstephen’s Descriptio Londoniæ, which originally formed an
introduction to the same writer’s Life of Becket. It is a remarkable relic, and
unique in its interest as a vivid description of London in the twelfth century.
The author is carried away by his enthusiasm, and probably exaggerates the
beauties of the city. But he is not blind to evils, for he wisely says, “The city
is delightful indeed, if it has a good governor,” and we know that it did not
always have that. The account of the sports of the citizens is particularly
valuable, especially the early notice of the use of skates on the Moorfields
during the winter time. We may be proud as Englishmen that no other city
in Europe possesses so early a description of a mediæval town. It should be
noted incidentally that “King Henry the Third” mentioned at the close of
Fitzstephen’s account is not the king usually known by that name; but
Henry the second son of Henry II. This prince was crowned during his
father’s life-time; but died in 1182, seven years before his father. Matthew
Paris also speaks of him as Henry III.
An enlarged edition of the Survey was prepared by Anthony Munday after
Stow’s death, and published in 1618. In 1633, four months after Munday’s
death, another edition, in folio, appeared “completely finished by the study
of A. M., H. D., and others.” John Strype took the matter in hand in the next
century and made a new book of the Survey in two volumes, folio, 1720.
The sixth edition, enlarged by John Strype, “brought down to the present

time by careful hands,” was published in the same form in 1754-5. Strype
died in 1737. This edition of Stow is an excellent history of London, but
most persons will agree with Thomas Hearne in his criticism, “Stow should
have been simply reprinted as a venerable original, and the additions given
in a different character.”
It was not until 1842 that Stow’s edition of 1603 was reprinted, when it was
edited by Mr. W. J. Thoms, founder and first editor of Notes and Queries.
Mr. C. L. Kingsford produced a critical edition of Stow’s second edition
(1603) which is of great value. It was published by the Clarendon Press,
Oxford, in 1908. The editor gives an account of Stow’s collections and
MSS., tracing their present location.
HENRY B. WHEATLEY.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
Ed. Woorkes of Geffrey Chaucer, 1561; Summarie of Englyshe Chronicles,
1565; other editions, 1566, 1570, 1574, 1575, 1590; The Summary
abridged, 1566, 1567, 1573, 1584, 1587, 1598, 1604, 1607, 1611, 1618; ed.
Matthew of Westminster’s Flores Historiarum, 1567; ed. Matthew Paris’s
Chronicle, 1571; ed. Thos. Walsingham’s Chronicle, 1574; The Chronicles
of England, 1580; re-arranged as The Annales of England, 1592; other
editions, 1601, 1605; re-edited by Edmund Howse, 1615, 1631; The
Successions of the History of England, 1638 (Lourdes); ed. second edition
of Holinshed’s Chronicle, 1585-1587; A Survey of London, 1598, 1603;
enlarged edition by Anthony Munday, 1618 and 1633; by J. Strype, 1720,
1754; modernised by Wm. J. Thoms, 1842, 1876; by Henry Morley, 1890,
1893 (with index), 1908; by C. L. Kingsford, 1908; Selections from A
Survey of London, ed. by A. Barter, 1910.
Biographies.—By Edmund Howe (in Annales of England), 1615; by J.
Strype (in Survey of London), 1720; by Wm. J. Thoms (in Survey of
London), 1876; by C. M. Clode (in The Early History of the Guild of
Merchant Taylors), 1888; by C. L. Kingsford (in Survey of London), 1908.

NORDEN’S
MAP OF LONDON
1593

LONDON
For Letter and Figure References, see Page xviii.

REFERENCES TO THE MAP
on pages xvi and xvii

a Bushops gate streete. 2. Colman streete.
b Papie. 3. Bassings hall.
c Alhallowes in the wall. 4. Honnsditche.
d S. Taphyns. 5. Leaden hall.
e Syluer streete. 6. Gratious streete.
f Aldermanburye. 7. Heneage house.
g Barbican. 8. Fancshurche.
h Aldersgate streete. 9. Marke lane.
i Charterhowse. 10. Minchyn lane.
k Holborne conduct. 11. Paules.
l Chauncery lane 12. Eastcheape.
m Temple barr. 13. Fleetstreete.
n Holbourn. 14. Fetter lane.
o Grayes Inn lane. 15. S. Dunshous.
p S. Androwes. 16. Themes streete.
q Newgate. 17. Lodon Stone.
r S. Iones. 18. Olde Baylye.
s S. Nic shambels. 19. Clerkenwell.
t Cheap syde. 20. Winchester house.
u Bucklers burye. 21. Battle bridge.
w Brode streete. 22. Bermodsoy streete.
x The Stockes.
y The Exchannge.
z Cornehill.

CONTENTS
PAGE
The Author to the Reader 1
The Antiquity of London 3
The Wall about the City of London 7
Of the Ancient and Present Rivers,
Brooks, Bourns, Pools, Wells, and
12
Conduits of Fresh Water serving the
City
The Town Ditch without the Wall of the
19
City
Bridges of this City 21
Gates in the Wall of this City 27
Of Towers and Castles 42
Of Schools and other Houses of
66
Learning
Houses of Students of the Common
70
Law
Of Orders and Customs of the Citizens 73
Of Charitable Alms in Old Times given 82
Sports and Pastimes of Old Time used
84
in this City
Watches in London 91
Honour of Citizens, and Worthiness of
96
Men in the same
The City of London divided into Parts 107
Portsoken Ward 110
Tower Street Ward 118
Aldgate Ward 125
Lime Street Ward 136

Bishopgate Ward 148
Broad Street Ward 157
Cornehill Ward 168
Langborne Ward and Fennie About 179
Billingsgate Ward 185
Bridge Ward Within 189
Candlewike Street Ward 194
Walbrook Ward 200
Downegate Ward 206
Vintry Ward 213
Cordwainer Street Ward 224
Cheap Ward 231
Coleman Street Ward 248
Bassings hall Ward 255
Cripplegate Ward 260
Aldersgate Ward 271
Faringdon Ward Infra, or Within 277
Bread Street Ward 307
Queen hithe Ward 314
Castle Baynard Ward 325
The Ward of Faringdon Extra, or
331
Without
Bridge Ward Without (the 26th in
number), consisting of the Borough of 358
Southwark, in the County of Surrey
The Suburbs without the Walls of the
City, briefly touched, as also
without the Liberties, more at large
374
described
Liberties of the Duchy of Lancaster 393
The City of Westminster, with the
Antiquities, Bounds, and Liberties 398
thereof
Spiritual or Ecclesiastical Government 422
Parish Churches 434

Hospitals in this City and Suburbs 438
Of Leprous People and Lazar Houses 440
Temporal Government of this City 442
Aldermen and Sheriffs of London 474
Officers belonging to the Lord Mayor’s
474
House
Sheriffs of London; their Officers 475
Mayor and Sheriffs’ Livery 475
Companies of London placed at the
476
Mayor’s Feast
Liveries worn by Citizens at Triumphs 479
An Apology, or Defence, against the
Opinion of some Men, which think that
the Greatness of that City standeth not 482
with the Profit and Security of this
Realm
The Singularities of the City of London 485
An Appendix 498
Fitzstephen’s Description of London 501
Index 511

A
SVRVAY OF
LONDON.

Conteyning the Originall, Antiquity,
Increase, Moderne estate, and description of that
City, written in the yeare 1598, by Iohn Stow
Citizen of London.

Since by the same Author increased,
with diuers rare notes of Antiquity, and
published in the yeare,
1603.

Also an Apologie (or defence) against the
opinion of some men, concerning that Citie,
the greatnesse thereof.

VVith an Appendix, contayning in Latine
Libellum de situ & nobilitate Londini: Written by
William Fitzstephen, in the raigne of
Henry the second.

Imprinted by Iohn Windet, Printer to the honorable
Citie of London.

1603.

TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE

ROBERT LEE
LORD MAYOR OF THE CITY OF LONDON
TO THE COMMONALTY AND CITIZENS OF THE SAME

JOHN STOW, CITIZEN, WISHETH LONG
HEALTH AND FELICITY

Since the first publishing of the perambulation of Kent by that learned
gentleman, William Lambert, Esq., I have heard of sundry other able
persons to have (according to the desire of that author) essayed to do
somewhat for the particular shires and counties where they were born or
dwelt; of which none that I know (saving John Norden, for the counties of
Middlesex and Hertford) have vouchsafed their labour to the common good
in that behalf. And, therefore, concurring with the first, in the same desire to
have drawn together such special descriptions of each place, as might not
only make up a whole body of the English chorography amongst ourselves,
but also might give occasion and courage to M. Camden to increase and
beautify his singular work of the whole, to the view of the learned that be
abroad, I have attempted the discovery of London, my native soil and
country, at the desire and persuasion of some of my good friends, as well
because I have seen sundry antiquities myself touching that place, as also
for that through search of records to other purposes, divers written helps are
come to my hands, which few others have fortuned to meet withall; it is a
service that most agreeth with my professed travels; it is a duty that I
willingly owe to my native mother and country, and an office that of right I
hold myself bound in love to bestow upon the politic body and members of
the same. What London hath been of ancient time men may here see, as
what it is now every man doth behold. I know that the argument, being of
the chief and principal city of the land, required the pen of some excellent
artisan, but fearing that none would attempt and finish it, as few have
essayed any, I chose rather (amongst other my labours) to handle it after my
plain manner, than to leave it unperformed. Touching the dedication, I am
not doubtful where to seek my patron, since you be a politic estate of the
city, as the walls and buildings be the material parts of the same. To you,
therefore, do I address this my whole labour, as well that by your authority I
may be protected, as warranted by your own skill and understanding of that
which I have written. I confess that I lacked my desire to the
accomplishment of some special parts,[1] which some other of better ability
promised to perform; but as I then professed, have since out of mine old
store-house added to this work many rare notes of antiquity, as may appear
to the reader, which I do afford in all duty, and recommend to your view,
my labours to your consideration, and myself to your service, during life, in
this or any other.

THE AUTHOR TO THE READER
Because amongst others mine authors, I have oftentimes alleged Fitz-
Stephens as one more choice than other, namely, for the ancient estate of
this city, more than four hundred years since: and also the said author being
rare, I have in this place thought good by impression to impart the same to
my loving friends, the learned antiquaries, as the author wrote it in the Latin
tongue; and first to note in effect what Master Bale, in commendation of the
said author, writeth:
“William Stephanides, or Fitzstephen, a monk of Canterbury, born of
worshipful parents in the city of London, well brought up at the first under
good masters, did more and more increase in honest conditions and
learning; for ever in his young years there appeared in him a certain light of
a gentleman-like disposition, which promised many good things, afterwards
by him performed. Such time as other spent in brawls and idle talk, he
employed in wholesome exercises for the honour of his country, following
therein the example of Plato, and was very studious both in humanity and
divinity.”
The city of London, his birth-place, the most noble of all other cities of this
land, and the prince’s seat, situated in the south part of this island, he loved
above all the other, so that at length he wrote most elegantly in Latin of the
site and rights of the same. Leland, in divers of his books, commendeth him
for an excellent writer. He lived in the reign of King Stephen, wrote in the
reign of Henry II., and deceased in the year of Christ 1191, in the reign of
Richard I.

THE SURVEY OF LONDON CONTAINING
THE ORIGINAL, ANTIQUITY, INCREASE,
MODERN ESTATE, AND DESCRIPTION OF
THAT CITY
As the Roman writers,[2] to glorify the city of Rome, derive the original
thereof from gods and demi-gods, by the Trojan progeny, so Geoffrey of
Monmouth, the Welsh historian, deduceth the foundation of this famous city
of London, for the greater glory thereof, and emulation of Rome, from the
very same original. For he reporteth that Brute, lineally descended from the
demi-god Æneas, the son of Venus, daughter of Jupiter, about the year of
the world 2855, and 1108 before the nativity of Christ, built this city near
unto the river now called Thames, and named it Troynovant, or Trenovant.
But herein, as Livy, the most famous historiographer of the Romans,
writeth, antiquity is pardonable, and hath an especial privilege, by
interlacing divine matters with human, to make the first foundation of cities
more honourable, more sacred, and, as it were, of greater majesty.
King Lud (as the aforesaid Geoffrey of Monmouth noteth) afterwards not
only repaired this city, but also increased the same with fair buildings,
towers, and walls, and after his own name called it Caire-Lud,[3] as Lud’s
town; and the strong gate which he built in the west part of the city he
likewise, for his own honour, named Ludgate.
This Lud had issue two sons, Androgeus and Theomantius, who being not
of age to govern at the death of their father, their uncle Cassibelan took
upon him the crown; about the eighth year of whose reign, Julius Cæsar
arrived in this land with a great power of Romans to conquer it; the manner
of which conquest I will summarily set down out of his own Commentaries,
which are of far better credit than the relations of Geoffrey Monmouth.
The chief government of the Britons, and ordering of the wars, was then by
common advice committed to Cassibelan, whose seigniory was separated

from the cities towards the sea-coast by the river called Thames, about
fourscore miles from the sea. This Cassibelan, in times past, had made
continual war upon the cities adjoining; but the Britons being moved with
the Roman invasion, had resolved in that necessity to make him their
sovereign, and general of the wars (which continued hot between the
Romans and them); but in the meanwhile the Troynovants, which was then
the strongest city well near of all those countries (and out of which city a
young gentleman, called Mandubrace, upon confidence of Cæsar’s help,
came unto him into the mainland of Gallia, now called France, and thereby
escaped death, which he should have suffered at Cassibelan’s hand), sent
their ambassadors to Cæsar, promising to yield unto him, and to do what he
should command them instantly, desiring him to protect Mandubrace from
the furious tyranny of Cassibelan, and to send him into their city with
authority to take the government thereof upon him. Cæsar accepted the
offer, and appointed them to give unto him forty hostages, and withal to
find him grain for his army; and so sent he Mandubrace unto them.
When others saw that Cæsar had not only defended the Trinobants against
Cassibelan, but had also saved them harmless from the pillage of his own
soldiers, then did the Conimagues, Segontians, Ancalits, Bibrokes, and
Cassians, likewise submit themselves unto him; and by them he learned that
not far thence was Cassibelan’s town, fortified with woods and marsh
ground, into the which he had gathered a great number both of men and
cattle.
For the Britons call that a town (saith Cæsar), when they have fortified a
cumbersome wood with a ditch and rampart, and thither they resort to abide
the approach of their enemies; to this place therefore marched Cæsar with
his legions; he found it excellently fortified, both of nature and by man’s
advice; nevertheless, he resolved to assault it in two several places at once,
whereupon the Britons, being not able to endure the force of the Romans,
fled out at another part, and left the town unto him: a great number of cattle
he found there, and many of the Britons he slew, and others he took in the
chase.
Whilst these things were doing in these quarters, Cassibelan sent
messengers into Kent, which lieth upon the sea, in which there reigned then
four particular kings, named Cingetorex, Carvill, Taximagull, and Segonax,
whom he commanded to raise all their forces, and suddenly to set upon and

assault the Romans in their trenches by the sea-side; the which, when the
Romans perceived, they sallied out upon them, slew a great sort of them,
and taking Cingetorex their noble captain prisoner, retired themselves to
their camp in good safety.
When Cassibelan heard of this, and had formerly taken many other losses,
and found his country sore wasted, and himself left almost alone by the
defection of the other cities, he sent ambassadors by Comius of Arras to
Cæsar, to intreat with him concerning his own submission; the which Cæsar
did accept, and taking hostages, assessed the realm of Britain to a yearly
tribute, to be paid to the people of Rome, giving strait charge to Cassibelan
that he should not seek any revenge upon Mandubrace or the Trinobantes,
and so withdrew his army to the sea again.
Thus far out of Cæsar’s Commentaries concerning this history, which
happened in the year before Christ’s nativity 54. In all which process there
is for this purpose to be noted, that Cæsar nameth the city of Trinobantes,
which hath a resemblance with Troynova, or Trinobantum, having no
greater difference in the orthography than changing b into v, and yet maketh
an error whereof I will not argue; only this I will note, that divers learned
men do not think “civitas Trinobantum” to be well and truly translated, “the
city of the Trinobantes;” but it should rather be the state, commonalty, or
seigniory of the Trinobantes; for that Cæsar in his Commentaries useth the
word civitas, only for a people living under one and the selfsame prince and
law; but certain it is that the cities of the Britons were in those days neither
artificially built with houses, nor strongly walled with stone, but were only
thick and cumbersome woods, plashed within and trenched about. And the
like in effect do other the Roman and Greek authors directly affirm, as
Strabo, Pomponius Mela, and Dion a senator of Rome, which flourished in
the several reigns of the Roman emperors, Tiberius, Claudius, Domitian,
and Severus; to wit, that before the arrival of the Romans the Britons had no
towns, but called that a town which had a thick entangled wood, defended,
as I said, with a ditch and bank, the like whereof, the Irishmen, our next
neighbours, do at this day call Fastness.[4] But after that these hither parts of
Britain were reduced into the form of a province by the Romans, who
sowed the seeds of civility over all Europe; this city, whatsoever it was
before, began to be renowned, and of fame. For Tacitus, who first of all
authors nameth it Londinum, saith, that in the 62nd year after Christ, it was,

albeit no colony of the Romans, yet most famous for the great multitude of
merchants, provision, and intercourse. At which time, in that notable revolt
of the Britons from Nero, in which 70,000 Romans and their confederates
were slain, this city, with Verulam, near St. Albans, and Maldon in Essex,
then all famous, were ransacked and spoiled. For Suetonius Paulinus, then
lieutenant for the Romans in this isle, abandoned it, as not then fortified,
and left it to the spoil.
Shortly after, Julius Agricola, the Roman lieutenant, in the time of
Domitian, was the first that by adhorting the Britons publicly, and helping
them privately, won them to build houses for themselves, temples for the
gods, and courts for justice, to bring up the noblemen’s children in good
letters and humanity, and to apparel themselves Roman-like, whereas before
(for the most part) they went naked, painting their bodies, etc., as all the
Roman writers have observed.
True it is, I confess, that afterwards many cities and towns in Britain, under
the government of the Romans, were walled with stone and baked bricks or
tiles, as Richborrow or Ryptacester,[5] in the Isle of Thanet, until the
channel altered his course, beside Sandwich in Kent; Verulamium,[6] beside
St. Albans, in Hertfordshire; Cilcester[7] in Hampshire; Wroxcester[8] in
Shropshire; Kencester[9] in Herefordshire, three miles from Hereford town;
Ribcester,[10] seven miles above Preston, on the water of Rible; Aldburgh,
[11]
a mile from Boroughbridge, or Watling Street, on Ure river, and others;
and no doubt but this city of London was also walled with stone, in the time
of the Roman government here, but yet very lately, for it seemeth not to
have been walled in the year of our Lord 296, because in that year, when
Alectus the tyrant was slain in the field, the Franks easily entered London
and had sacked the same, had not God, of his great favour, at the very
instant, brought along the river of Thames, certain bands of Roman soldiers,
who slew those Franks in every street of the city.

WALL ABOUT THE CITY OF LONDON
In a few years after, as Simeon of Durham, an ancient writer, reporteth,
Helen, the mother of Constantine the Great, was the first that inwalled this
city, about the year of Christ 306; but however those walls of stone might
have been built by Helen, yet the Britons, I know, had no skill of building
with stone, as it may appear by that which followeth, about the year of
Christ 399, when Arcadius and Honorius, the sons of Theodosius Magnus,
governed the empire, the one in the east, the other in the west; for Honorius
having received Britain, the city of Rome was invaded and destroyed by the
Goths, after which time the Romans left to rule in Britain, as being
employed in defence of their territories nearer home, whereupon the Britons
not able to defend themselves against the invasions of their enemies, were
many years together under the oppression of two most cruel nations, the
Scots and Picts, and at the length were forced to send their ambassadors
with letters and lamentable supplications to Rome, requiring aid and
succour from thence, upon promise of their continual fealty, so that the
Romans would rescue them out of the hands of their enemies. Hereupon the
Romans sent unto them a legion of armed soldiers, which coming into this
island, and encountering with the enemies, overthrew a great number of
them, and drove the rest out of the frontiers of the country; and so setting
the Britons at liberty, counselled them to make a wall, extending all along
between the two seas, which might be of force to keep out their evil
neighbours, and then returned home with great triumph. The Britons
wanting masons built that wall, not of stone as they were advised, but made
it of turf, and that so slender, that it served little or nothing at all for their
defence, and the enemy perceiving that the Roman legion was returned
home, forthwith arrived out of their boats, invaded the borders, overcame
the country, and, as it were, bore down all that was before them.
Whereupon ambassadors were eftsoon dispatched to Rome, lamentably
beseeching that they would not suffer their miserable country to be utterly
destroyed: then again another legion was sent, which coming upon a

sudden, made a great slaughter of the enemy, and chased him home, even to
his own country. These Romans at their departure, told the Britons plainly,
that it was not for their ease or leisure to take upon them any more such
long and laborious journeys for their defence, and therefore bade them
practice the use of armour and weapons, and learn to withstand their
enemies, whom nothing else did make so strong as their faint heart and
cowardice; and for so much as they thought that it would be no small help
and encouragement unto their tributary friends whom they were now forced
to forsake,[12] they built for them a wall of hard stone from the west sea to
the east sea, right between those two cities, which were there made to keep
out the enemy, in the selfsame place where Severus before had cast his
trench. The Britons also putting to their helping hands as labourers.
This wall they built eight feet thick in breadth, and twelve feet in height,
right, as it were by a line, from east to west, as the ruins thereof remaining
in many places until this day do make to appear. Which work, thus
perfected, they give the people strait charge to look well to themselves, they
teach them to handle their weapons, and they instruct them in warlike feats.
And lest by the sea-side southwards, where their ships lay at harbour, the
enemy should come on land, they made up sundry bulwarks, each
somewhat distant from the other, and so bid them farewell, as minding no
more to return. This happened in the days of the Emperor Theodosius the
younger, almost 500 years after the first arrival of the Romans here, about
the year after Christ’s incarnation 434.
The Britons after this, continuing a lingering and doubtful war with the
Scots and Picts, made choice of Vortigern to be their king and leader, which
man (as saith Malmesbury[13]) was neither valorous of courage, nor wise of
counsel, but wholly given over to the unlawful lusts of his flesh; the people
likewise, in short time, being grown to some quietness, gave themselves to
gluttony and drunkenness, pride, contention, envy, and such other vices,
casting from them the yoke of Christ. In the mean season, a bitter plague
fell among them, consuming in short time such a multitude that the quick
were not sufficient to bury the dead; and yet the remnant remained so
hardened in sin, that neither death of their friends, nor fear of their own
danger, could cure the mortality of their souls, whereupon a greater stroke
of vengeance ensued upon the whole sinful nation. For being now again
infested with their old neighbours the Scots and Picts, they consult with

their king Vortigern,[14] and send for the Saxons, who shortly after arrived
here in Britain, where, saith Bede, they were received as friends; but as it
proved, they minded to destroy the country as enemies; for after that they
had driven out the Scots and Picts, they also drove the Britons, some over
the seas, some into the waste mountains of Wales and Cornwall, and
divided the country into divers kingdoms amongst themselves.
These Saxons were likewise ignorant of building with stone until the year
680; for then it is affirmed that Benet, abbot of Wirrall,[15] master to the
reverend Bede, first brought artificers of stone houses and glass windows
into this island amongst the Saxons, arts before that time unto them
unknown, and therefore used they but wooden buildings. And to this
accordeth Policronicon, who says, “that then had ye wooden churches, nay
wooden chalices and golden priests, but since golden chalices and wooden
priests.” And to knit up this argument, King Edgar in his charter to the
abbey of Malmesbury, dated the year of Christ 974, hath words to this
effect: “All the monasteries in my realm, to the outward sight, are nothing
but worm-eaten and rotten timber and boards, and that worse is, within they
are almost empty, and void of Divine service.”
Thus much be said for walling, not only in respect of this city, but generally
also of the first within the realm. Now to return to our Trinobant (as Cæsar
hath it), the same is since by Tacitus, Ptolemæus, and Antoninus, called
Londinium, Longidinum; of Ammiamus, Lundinum, and Augusta, who
calleth it an ancient city; of our Britons, Lundayne; of the old Saxons,
Lundenceaster, Lundenbrig, Londennir; of strangers Londra and Londres;
of the inhabitants, London; whereof you may read a more large and learned
discourse, and how it took the name, in that work of my loving friend,
Master Camden, now Clarencieux, which is called Britannia.
This city of London having been destroyed and burnt by the Danes and
other Pagan enemies, about the year of Christ 839, was by Alfred, king of
the West Saxons, in the year 886, repaired, honourably restored, and made
again habitable. Who also committed the custody thereof unto his son-in-
law, Ethelred, Earl of Mercia, unto whom before he had given his daughter
Ethelfled.
And that this city was then strongly walled may appear by divers accidents,
whereof William of Malmsbury hath, that about the year of Christ 994, the

Londoners shut up their gates, and defended their king Ethelred within their
walls against the Danes.
In the year 1016,[16] Edmund Ironsides reigning over the West Saxons,
Canute the Dane bringing his navy into the west part of the bridge, cast a
trench about the city of London, and then attempted to have won it by
assault, but the citizens repulsed him, and drove them from their walls.
Also, in the year 1052, Earl Goodwin, with his navy, sailed up by the south
end of the bridge, and so assailed the walls of this city.
William Fitzstephen, in the reign of King Henry II., writing of the walls of
this city, hath these words: “The wall is high and great, well towered on the
north side, with due distances between the towers. On the south side also
the city was walled and towered, but the fishful river of Thames, with his
ebbing and flowing, hath long since subverted them.”
By the north side, he meaneth from the river of Thames in the east to the
river of Thames in the west, for so stretched the wall in his time, and the
city being far more in length from east to west than in breadth from south to
north, and also narrower at both ends than in the midst, is therefore
compassed with the wall on the land side, in form of a bow, except denting
in betwixt Cripplegate and Aldersgate; but the wall on the south side, along
by the river of Thames, was straight as the string of a bow, and all furnished
with towers or bulwarks (as we now term them) in due distance every one
from other, as witnesseth our author, and ourselves may behold from the
land side. This may suffice for proof of a wall, and form thereof, about this
city, and the same to have been of great antiquity as any other within this
realm.
And now touching the maintenance and reparing the said wall. I read, that
in the year 1215, the 16th of King John,[17] the barons, entering the city by
Aldgate, first took assurance of the citizens, then brake into the Jews’
houses, searched their coffers to fill their own purses, and after with great
diligence repaired the walls and gates of the city with stone taken from the
Jews’ broken houses. In the year 1257, Henry III. caused the walls of this
city, which were sore decayed and destitute of towers, to be repaired in
more seemly wise than before, at the common charges of the city. Also in
the year 1282,[18] King Edward I. having granted to Robert Kilwarby,
archbishop of Canterbury, license for the enlarging of the Blackfriars’

church, to break and take down a part of the wall of the city, from Ludgate
to the river of Thames; he also granted to Henry Wales, mayor, and the
citizens of London, the favour to take, toward the making of the wall and
enclosure of the city, certain customs or toll, as appeareth by his grant. This
wall was then to be made from Ludgate west to Fleet bridge along behind
the houses, and along by the water of the Fleet unto the river of Thames.
Moreover, in the year 1310, Edward II. commanded the citizens to make up
the wall already begun, and the tower at the end of the same wall, within the
water of Thames near unto the Blackfriars, etc. 1328, the 2nd of Edward
III., the walls of this city were repaired. It was also granted by King Richard
II. in the tenth year of his reign, that a toll should be taken of the wares sold
by land or by water for ten years, towards the repairing of the walls, and
cleansing of the ditch about London. In the 17th of Edward IV. Ralph
Joceline, mayor, caused part of the wall about the city of London to be
repaired; to wit, betwixt Aldgate and Aldersgate. He also caused Moorfield
to be searched for clay, and brick thereof to be made and burnt; he likewise
caused chalk to be brought out of Kent, and to be burnt into lime in the
same Moorfield, for more furtherance of the work. Then the Skinners to
begin in the east made that part of the wall betwixt Aldgate and Bevis
Marks, towards Bishopsgate, as may appear by their arms in three places
fixed there: the mayor, with his company of the Drapers, made all that part
betwixt Bishopsgate and Allhallows church, and from Allhallows towards
the postern called Moorgate. A great part of the same wall was repaired by
the executors of Sir John Crosby, late alderman, as may appear by his arms
in two places there fixed: and other companies repaired the rest of the wall
to the postern of Cripplegate. The Goldsmiths repaired from Cripplegate
towards Aldersgate, and there the work ceased. The circuit of the wall of
London on the land side, to wit, from the Tower of London in the east unto
Aldgate, in 82 perches; from Aldgate to Bishopsgate, 86 perches; from
Bishopsgate in the north to the postern of Cripplegate, 162 perches; from
Cripplegate to Aldersgate, 75 perches; from Aldersgate to Newgate, 66
perches; from Newgate in the west to Ludgate, 42 perches; in all, 513
perches of assize. From Ludgate to the Fleet-dike west, about 60 perches;
from Fleetbridge south to the river Thames, about 70 perches; and so the
total of these perches amounteth to 643, every perch consisting of five yards
and a half, which do yield 3536 yards and a half, containing 10,608 feet,
which make up two English miles and more by 608 feet.

OF ANCIENT AND PRESENT RIVERS,
BROOKS, BOURNS, POOLS, WELLS, AND
CONDUITS OF FRESH WATER, SERVING
THE CITY, AS ALSO OF THE DITCH
COMPASSING THE WALL OF THE SAME
FOR DEFENCE THEREOF.
Anciently, until the Conqueror’s time, and two hundred years after, the city
of London was watered, besides the famous river of Thames on the south
part, with the river of Wells, as it was then called, on the west; with the
water called Walbrooke running through the midst of the city in the river of
Thames, serving the heart thereof; and with a fourth water or bourn, which
ran within the city through Langborne ward, watering that part in the east.
In the west suburbs was also another great water, called Oldborne, which
had its fall into the river of Wells; then were there three principal fountains,
or wells, in the other suburbs; to wit, Holy well, Clement’s well, and
Clarkes’ well. Near unto this last-named fountain were divers other wells, to
wit, Skinners’ well, Fags’ well, Tode well, Loder’s well, and Radwell. All
which said wells, having the fall of their overflowing in the aforesaid river,
much increased the stream, and in that place gave it the name of Well. In
West Smithfield there was a pool, in records called Horsepoole, and one
other pool near unto the parish church of St. Giles without Cripplegate.
Besides all which, they had in every street and lane of the city divers fair
wells and fresh springs; and after this manner was this city then served with
sweet and fresh waters, which being since decayed, other means have been
sought to supply the want, as shall be shown. But first of the aforenamed
rivers and other waters is to be said, as following:
Thames, the most famous river of this island, beginneth a little above a
village called Winchcombe, in Oxfordshire; and still increasing, passeth
first by the University of Oxford, and so with a marvellous quiet course to

London, and thence breaketh into the French ocean by main tides, which
twice in twenty-four hours’ space doth ebb and flow more than sixty miles
in length, to the great commodity of travellers, by which all kind of
merchandise be easily conveyed to London, the principal storehouse and
staple of all commodities within this realm; so that, omitting to speak of
great ships and other vessels of burthen, there pertaineth to the cities of
London, Westminster, and borough of Southwark, above the number, as is
supposed, of 2000 wherries and other small boats, whereby 3000 poor men,
at the least, be set on work and maintained.
That the river of Wells, in the west part of the city, was of old so called of
the wells, it may be proved thus:—William the Conqueror in his charter to
the college of St. Marten le Grand, in London, hath these words: “I do give
and grant to the same church all the land and the moor without the postern,
which is called Cripplegate, on either part of the postern; that is to say, from
the north corner of the wall, as the river of the Wells, there near running,
departeth the same moor from the wall, unto the running water which
entereth the city.”[19] This water hath long since been called the river of the
Wels, which name of river continued; and it was so called in the reign of
Edward I., as shall be shown, with also the decay of the said river. In a fair
book of parliament records, now lately restored to the Tower, it
appeareth[20] that a parliament being holden at Carlile in the year 1307, the
35th of Edward I., “Henry Lacy, earl of Lincoln, complained, that whereas
in times past the course of water, running at London under Oldborne bridge
and Fleete bridge into the Thames, had been of such breadth and depth, that
ten or twelve ships navies at once, with merchandise, were wont to come to
the foresaid bridge of Fleete, and some of them to Oldborne bridge: now the
same course, by filth of the tanners and such others, was sore decayed; also
by raising of wharfs; but especially, by a diversion of the water made by
them of the new Temple, for their mills standing without Baynardes Castle,
in the first year of King John,[21] and divers other impediments, so as the
said ships could not enter as they were wont, and as they ought: wherefore
he desired that the mayor of London with the sheriffs and other discreet
aldermen, might be appointed to view the course of the said water; and that
by the oaths of good men, all the aforesaid hindrances might be removed,
and it to be made as it was wont of old. Whereupon Roger le Brabason, the
constable of the Tower, with the mayor and sheriffs, were assigned to take

with them honest and discreet men, and to make diligent search and enquiry
how the said river was in old time, and that they leave nothing that may hurt
or stop it, but keep it in the same state that it was wont to be.” So far the
record. Whereupon it followed that the said river was at that time cleansed,
these mills removed, and other things done for the preservation of the
course thereof, notwithstanding never brought to the old depth and breadth;
whereupon the name of river ceased, and it was since called a brook,
namely, Turnmill or Tremill brook, for that divers mills were erected upon
it, as appeareth by a fair register-book, containing the foundation of the
priory at Clarkenwell, and donation of the lands thereunto belonging, as
also divers other records.
This brook hath been divers times since cleansed, namely, and last of all to
any effect, in the year 1502, the 17th of Henry VII., the whole course of
Fleete dike, then so called, was scowered, I say, down to the Thames, so
that boats with fish and fuel were rowed to Fleete bridge, and to Oldborne
bridge, as they of old time had been accustomed, which was a great
commodity to all the inhabitants in that part of the city.
In the year 1589 was granted a fifteenth, by a common council of the city,
for the cleansing of this brook or dike; the money amounting to a thousand
marks, was collected, and it was undertaken, that by drawing divers springs
about Hampstead heath into one head and course, both the city should be
served of fresh water in all places of want; and also, that by such a follower,
as men call it, the channel of this brook should be scowered into the river of
Thames; but much money being therein spent, the effect failed, so that the
brook, by means of continual encroachments upon the banks getting over
the water, and casting of soilage into the stream, is now become worse
cloyed and choken than ever it was before.
The running water, so called by William the Conqueror in his said charter,
which entereth the city, etc. (before there was any ditch) between
Bishopsgate and the late made postern called Moorgate, entered the wall,
and was truly of the wall called Walbrooke, not of Gualo, as some have far
fetched: it ran through the city with divers windings from the north towards
the south into the river of Thames, and had over the same divers bridges
along the streets and lanes through which it passed. I have read in a book[22]
entitled the Customs of London,[23] that the prior of the Holy Trinity within
Aldgate ought to make over Walbrooke in the ward of Brod street, against

the stone wall of the city, viz., the same bridge that is next the Church of All
Saints, at the wall. Also that the prior of the new hospital, St. Mary Spittle
without Bishopsgate, ought to make the middle part of one other bridge
next to the said bridge towards the north: and that in the twenty-eight year
of Edward I. it was by inquisition found before the mayor of London, that
the parish of St. Stephen upon Walbrooke ought of right to scour the course
of the said brook, and therefore the sheriffs were commanded to distrain the
said parishioners so to do, in the year 1300. The keepers of those bridges at
that time were William Jordan and John de Bever. This water-course,
having divers bridges, was afterwards vaulted over with brick, and paved
level with the streets and lanes where through it passed; and since that, also
houses have been built thereon, so that the course of Walbrooke is now
hidden underground, and thereby hardly known.
Langborne water, so called of the length thereof, was a great stream
breaking out of the ground in Fenchurch street, which ran down with a swift
course, west, through that street, athwart Gra street, and down Lumbard
street, to the west end of St. Mary Wolnothes church, and then turning the
course down Shareborne lane, so termed of sharing or dividing, it brake into
divers rills or rillets to the river of Thames: of this bourn that ward took the
name, and is till this day called Langborne ward. This bourn also is long
since stopped up at the head, and the rest of the course filled up and paved
over, so that no sign thereof remaineth more than the names aforesaid.
Oldborne, or Hilborne, was the like water, breaking out about the place
where now the bars do stand, and it ran down the whole street till Oldborne
bridge, and into the river of the Wells, or Turnemill brook. This bourn was
likewise long since stopped up at the head, and in other places where the
same hath broken out, but yet till this day the said street is there called High
Oldborne hill, and both the sides thereof, together with all the grounds
adjoining, that lie betwixt it and the river of Thames, remain full of springs,
so that water is there found at hand, and hard to be stopped in every house.
There are (saith Fitzstephen) near London, on the north side, special wells
in the suburbs, sweet, wholesome, and clear; amongst which Holy well,
Clarkes’ well, and Clement’s well, are most famous, and frequented by
scholars and youths of the city in summer evenings, when they walk forth
to take the air.

The first, to wit, Holy well, is much decayed and marred with filthiness
purposely hid there, for the heightening of the ground for garden-plots.
The fountain called St. Clement’s well, north from the parish church of St.
Clement’s and near unto an inn of Chancerie called Clement’s Inn, is fair
curbed square with hard stone, kept clean for common use, and is always
full.
The third is called Clarkes’ well, or Clarkenwell, and is curbed about square
with hard stone, not far from the west end of Clarkenwell church, but close
without the wall that incloseth it. The said church took the name of the well,
and the well took the name of the parish clerks in London, who of old time
were accustomed there yearly to assemble, and to play some large history of
Holy Scripture.[24] And for example, of later time, to wit, in the year 1390,
the 14th of Richard II., I read, the parish clerks of London, on the 18th of
July, played interludes at Skinners’ well, near unto Clarkes’ well, which
play continued three days together; the king, queen, and nobles being
present. Also in the year 1409, the 10th of Henry IV., they played a play at
the Skinners’ well, which lasted eight days, and was of matter from the
creation of the world. There were to see the same the most part of the
nobles and gentles in England, etc.
Other smaller wells were many near unto Clarkes’ well, namely Skinners’
well, so called for that the skinners of London held there certain plays
yearly, played of Holy Scripture, etc. In place whereof the wrestlings have
of later years been kept, and is in part continued at Bartholomew tide.
Then there was Fagges well, near unto Smithfield by the Charterhouse, now
lately damned up, Todwell, Loder’s well, and Radwell, all decayed, and so
filled up, that their places are hardly now discerned.
Somewhat north from Holywell is one other well curved square with stone,
and is called Dame Annis the clear, and not far from it, but somewhat west,
is also one other clear water called Perillous pond, because divers youths,
by swimming therein, have been drowned; and thus much be said for
fountains and wells.
Horsepoole, in West Smithfield, was some time a great water; and because
the inhabitants in that part of the city did there water their horses, the same
was in old records called Horsepoole; it is now much decayed, the springs

being stopped up, and the land water falling into the small bottom,
remaining inclosed with brick, is called Smithfield pond.[25]
By St. Giles’ churchyard was a large water called a Pool. I read in the year
1244 that Anne of Lodburie was drowned therein; this pool is now for the
most part stopped up, but the spring is preserved, and was coped about with
stone by the executors of Richard Whittington.
The said river of the Wells, the running water of Walbrooke, the bourns
aforenamed, and other the fresh waters that were in and about this city,
being in process of time, by incroachment for buildings and heightenings of
grounds, utterly decayed, and the number of citizens mightily increased,
they were forced to seek sweet waters abroad; whereof some, at the request
of King Henry III., in the twenty-first year of his reign,[26] were, for the
profit of the city, and good of the whole realm, thither repairing, to wit, for
the poor to drink, and the rich to dress their meat, granted to the citizens and
their successors, by one Gilbert Sanforde, with liberty to convey water from
the town of Teyborne by pipes of lead into their city.
The first cistern of lead, castellated with stone in the city of London, was
called the great Conduit in West Cheape, which was begun to be built in the
year 1285, Henry Wales being then mayor. The water-course from
Paddington to James head hath 510 rods; from James head on the hill to the
Mewsgate, 102 rods; from the Mewsgate to the Cross in Cheape, 484 rods.
The tun upon Cornhill was cisterned in the year 1401; John Shadworth then
being mayor.
Bosses of water at Belinsgate, by Powle’s wharf, and by St. Giles’ church
without Cripplegate, made about the year 1423.
Water conveyed to the gaols of Newgate and Ludgate, 1432.
Water was first procured to the Standard in West Cheape about the year
1285, which Standard was again new built by the executors of John Welles,
as shall be shown in another place. King Henry VI., in the year 1442,
granted to John Hatherley, mayor, license to take up two hundred fodders of
lead for the building of conduits, of a common garnery, and of a new cross
in West Cheape, for the honour of the city.

The Conduit in West Cheape, by Powle’s gate, was built about the year
1442; one thousand marks were granted by common council for the
building thereof, and repairing of the other conduits.
The Conduit in Aldermanbury, and the Standard in Fleet street, were made
and finished by the executors of Sir William Eastfield in the year 1471; a
cistern was added to the Standard in Fleete street, and a cistern was made at
Fleetbridge, and one other without Cripplegate, in the year 1478.
Conduit in Gra street, in the year 1491.
Conduit at Oldbourne cross about 1498; again new made by William Lambe
1577.
Little conduit by the Stockes market, about 1500.
Conduit at Bishopsgate, about 1513.
Conduit at London wall, about 1528.
Conduit at Aldgate without, about 1535.
Conduit in Lothbury, and in Coleman street, 1546.
Conduit of Thames water at Dowgate, 1568.
Thames water, conveyed into men’s houses by pipes of lead from a most
artificial forcier standing near unto London bridge, and made by Peter
Moris, Dutchman, in the year 1582, for service of the city, on the east part
thereof.
Conduits of Thames water, by the parish churches of St. Mary Magdalen,
and St. Nicolas Colde Abbey near unto old Fish street, in the year 1583.
One other new forcier was made near to Broken wharfe, to convey Thames
water into men’s houses of West Cheape, about Powle’s, Fleete street, etc.,
by an English gentleman named Bevis Bulmer, in the year 1594. Thus much
for waters serving this city; first by rivers, brooks, bourns, fountains, pools,
etc.; and since by conduits, partly made by good and charitable citizens, and
otherwise by charges of the commonalty, as shall be shown in description of
wards wherein they be placed. And now some benefactors to these conduits
shall be remembered.

In the year 1236 certain merchant strangers of cities beyond the seas, to wit,
Amiens, Corby, and Nele, for privileges which they enjoyed in this city,
gave one hundred pounds towards the charges of conveying water from the
town of Teyborne. Robert Large, mayor, 1439, gave to the new water
conduits then in hand forty marks, and towards the vaulting over of
Walbrooke near to the parish church of St. Margaret in Lothbery, two
hundred marks.
Sir William Eastfield, mayor, 1438, conveyed water from Teyborne to
Fleete street, to Aldermanbury, and from Highbury to Cripplegate.
William Combes, sheriff, 1441, gave to the work of the conduits ten
pounds.
Richard Rawson, one of the sheriffs, 1476, gave twenty pounds.
Robert Revell, one of the sheriffs, 1490, gave ten pounds.
John Mathew, mayor, 1490, gave twenty pounds.
William Bucke, tailor, in the year 1494, towards repairing of conduits, gave
one hundred marks.
Dame Thomason, widow, late wife to John Percivall Taylor, mayor, in the
year 1498 gave toward the conduit in Oldbourne twenty marks.
Richard Shore, one of the sheriffs, 1505, gave to the conduit in Oldbourne
ten pounds.
The Lady Ascue, widow of Sir Christopher Ascue, 1543, gave towards the
conduits one hundred pounds.
David Wodrooffe, sheriff, 1554, gave towards the conduit at Bishopsgate
twenty pounds.
Edward Jackman, one of the sheriffs, 1564, gave towards the conduits one
hundred pounds.
Barnard Randulph, common sergeant of the city, 1583, gave to the water
conduits nine hundred pounds.[27]
Thus much for the conduits of fresh water to this city.

THE TOWN DITCH WITHOUT THE WALL OF
THE CITY
The ditch, which partly now remaineth, and compassed the wall of the city,
was begun to be made by the Londoners in the year 1211,[28] and was
finished in the year 1213, the 15th of King John. This ditch being then made
of 200 feet broad, caused no small hindrance to the canons of the Holy
Trinity, whose church stood near unto Aldgate; for that the said ditch passed
through their ground from the Tower of London unto Bishopsgate. This
ditch, being originally made for the defence of the city, was also long
together carefully cleansed and maintained, as need required; but now of
late neglected and forced either to a very narrow, and the same a filthy
channel, or altogether stopped up for gardens planted, and houses built
thereon; even to the very wall, and in many places upon both ditch and wall
houses to be built; to what danger of the city, I leave to wiser consideration,
and can but wish that reformation might be had.
In the year of Christ 1354, the 28th of Edward III., the ditch of this city
flowing over the bank into the Tower ditch, the king commanded the said
ditch of the city to be cleansed, and so ordered, that the overflowing thereof
should not force any filth into the Tower ditch.
Anno 1379, John Philpot, mayor of London, caused this ditch to be
cleansed, and every householder to pay five pence, which was for a day’s
work towards the charges thereof. Richard II., in the 10th of his reign,
granted a toll to be taken of wares sold by water or by land, for ten years,
towards repairing of the wall and cleansing of the ditch.
Thomas Falconer, mayor, 1414, caused the ditch to be cleansed.
Ralph Joceline, mayor, 1477, caused the whole ditch to be cast and
cleansed, and so from time to time it was cleansed, and otherwise reformed,
namely, in 1519, the 10th of Henry VIII., for cleansing and scowering the
common ditch between Aldgate and the postern next the Tower ditch. The
chief ditcher had by the day seven pence, the second ditcher six pence, the

other ditchers five pence. And every vagabond (for so were they termed)
one penny the day, meat and drink, at charges of the city. £95 3s. 4d.
In my remembrance also the same was cleansed, namely the Moore ditch,
when Sir William Hollies was mayor, in the year 1540, and not long before,
from the Tower of London to Aldgate.
It was again cleansed in the year 1549, Henry Amcotes being mayor, at the
charges of the companies. And again, 1569, the 11th of Queen Elizabeth,
for cleansing the same ditch between Aldgate and the postern, and making a
new sewer, and wharf of timber, from the head of the postern into the town
ditch, £814 15s. 8d. Before the which time the said ditch lay open, without
wall or pale, having therein great store of very good fish, of divers sorts, as
many men yet living, who have taken and tasted them, can well witness; but
now no such matter: the charge of cleansing is spared, and great profit made
by letting out the banks, with the spoil of the whole ditch.
I am not ignorant of two fifteenths granted by a common council in the year
1595, for the reformation of this ditch, and that a small portion thereof, to
wit, betwixt Bishopsgate and the postern called Mooregate, was cleansed,
and made somewhat broader; but filling again very fast, by reason of
overraising the ground near adjoining, therefore never the better: and I will
so leave it, for I cannot help it.

BRIDGES OF THIS CITY
The original foundation of London bridge, by report of Bartholomew
Linsted, alias Fowle, last prior of St. Mary Overies church in Southwark,
was this: A ferry being kept in place where now the bridge is built, at length
the ferryman and his wife deceasing, left the same ferry to their only
daughter, a maiden named Mary, which with the goods left by her parents,
and also with the profits arising of the said ferry, built a house of Sisters, in
place where now standeth the east part of St. Mary Overies church, above
the choir, where she was buried, unto which house she gave the oversight
and profits of the ferry; but afterwards the said house of Sisters being
converted into a college of priests, the priests built the bridge (of timber) as
all the other great bridges of this land were, and from time to time kept the
same in good reparations, till at length, considering the great charges of
repairing the same, there was, by aid of the citizens of London, and others,
a bridge built with arches of stone, as shall be shown.
But first of the timber bridge, the antiquity thereof being great, but
uncertain; I remember to have read,[29] that in the year of Christ 994,
Sweyn, king of Denmark, besieging the city of London, both by water and
by land, the citizens manfully defended themselves, and their king Ethelred,
so as part of their enemies were slain in battle, and part of them were
drowned in the river of Thames, because in their hasty rage they took no
heed of the bridge.
Moreover, in the year 1016, Canute the Dane, with a great navy, came up to
London, and on the south of the Thames caused a trench to be cast, through
the which his ships were towed into the west side of the bridge, and then
with a deep trench, and straight siege, he compassed the city round about.
Also, in the year 1052, Earl Goodwin, with the like navy, taking his course
up the river of Thames, and finding none that offered to resist on the bridge,
he sailed up the south side of the said river. Furthermore, about the year
1067, William the Conqueror, in his charter to the church of St. Peter at

Westminster, confirmed to the monks serving God there, a gate in London,
then called Buttolph’s gate, with a wharf which was at the head of London
bridge.
We read likewise, that in the year 1114, the 14th of Henry I., the river of
Thames was so dried up, and such want of water there, that between the
Tower of London and the bridge, and under the bridge, not only with horse,
but also a great number of men, women, and children, did wade over on
foot.[30]
In the year 1122, the 22nd of Henry I., Thomas Arden gave the monks of
Bermondsey the church of St. George, in Southward, and five shillings rent
by the year, out of the land pertaining to London bridge.
I also have seen a charter under seal to the effect following:—“Henry king
of England, to Ralfe B. of Chichester, and all the ministers of Sussex,
sendeth greeting, know ye, etc. I command by my kingly authority, that the
manor called Alcestone, which my father gave, with other lands, to the
abbey of Battle, be free and quiet from shires and hundreds, and all other
customs of earthly servitude, as my father held the same, most freely and
quietly, and namely, from the work of London bridge, and the work of the
castle at Pevensey: and this I command upon my forfeiture. Witness,
William de Pontlearche, at Byrry.” The which charter, with the seal very
fair, remaineth in the custody of Joseph Holland, gentleman.
In the year 1136, the 1st of king Stephen,[31] a fire began in the house of
one Ailewarde, near unto London stone, which consumed east to Aldgate,
and west to St. Erkenwald’s shrine, in Powle’s church; the bridge of timber
over the river of Thames was also burnt, etc., but afterwards again repaired.
For Fitzstephen writes, that in the reign of King Stephen and of Henry II.,
when pastimes were showed on the river of Thames, men stood in great
number on the bridge, wharfs, and houses, to behold.
Now in the year 1163, the same bridge was not only repaired, but newly
made of timber as before, by Peter of Cole church, priest and chaplain.
Thus much for the old timber bridge, maintained partly by the proper lands
thereof, partly by the liberality of divers persons, and partly by taxations in
divers shires, have I proved for the space of 215 years before the bridge of
stone was built.

Now touching the foundation of the stone bridge, it followeth:—About the
year 1176, the stone bridge over the river of Thames, at London, was begun
to be founded by the aforesaid Peter of Cole church, near unto the bridge of
timber, but somewhat more towards the west, for I read, that Buttolfe wharf
was, in the Conqueror’s time, at the head of London bridge.[32] The king
assisted this work: a cardinal then being legate here; and Richard,
archbishop of Canterbury, gave one thousand marks towards the
foundation; the course of the river, for the time, was turned another way
about, by a trench cast for that purpose, beginning, as is supposed, east
about Radriffe, and ending in the west about Patricksey, now termed
Batersey. This work; to wit, the arches, chapel and stone bridge, over the
river of Thames at London, having been thirty-three years in building, was
in the year 1209 finished by the worthy merchants of London, Serle Mercer,
William Almaine, and Benedict Botewrite, principal masters of that work,
for Peter of Cole church deceased four years before, and was buried in the
chapel on the bridge, in the year 1205.[33]
King John gave certain void places in London to build upon the profits
thereof to remain towards the charges of building and repairing the same
bridge: a mason being master workman of the bridge, builded from the
foundation the large chapel on that bridge of his own charges, which chapel
was then endowed for two priests, four clerks, etc., besides chantries since
founded for John Hatfield and other.[34] After the finishing of this chapel,
which was the first building upon those arches, sundry houses at times were
erected, and many charitable men gave lands, tenements, or sums of money,
towards maintenance thereof, all which was sometimes noted and in a table
fair written for posterity remaining in the chapel, until the same chapel was
turned into a dwelling-house, and then removed to the bridge house, the
effect of which table I was willing to have published in this book, if I could
have obtained the sight thereof. But making the shorter work, I find by the
account of William Mariner and Christopher Eliot, wardens of London
bridge from Michaelmas, in the 22nd of Henry VII., unto Michaelmas next
ensuing, by one whole year, that all the payments and allowances came to
£815 17s. 2¼d., as there is shown by particulars, by which account then
made, may be partly guessed the great charges and discharges of that bridge
at this day, when things be stretched to so great a price. And now to actions
on this bridge.

The first action to be noted was lamentable; for within four[35] years after
the finishing thereof, to wit, in the year 1212, on the l0th of July, at night,
[36]
the borough of Southwark, upon the south side the river of Thames, as
also the church of our Lady of the Canons there, being on fire, and an
exceeding great multitude of people passing the bridge, either to extinguish
and quench it, or else to gaze at and behold it, suddenly the north part, by
blowing of the south wind was also set on fire, and the people which were
even now passing the bridge, perceiving the same, would have returned, but
were stopped by fire; and it came to pass, that as they stayed or protracted
time, the other end of the bridge also, namely, the south end, was fired, so
that the people thronging themselves between the two fires, did nothing else
but expect present death; then came there to aid them many ships and
vessels, into the which the multitude so unadvisedly rushed, that the ships
being drowned, they all perished.[37] It was said, that through the fire and
shipwreck there were destroyed about three thousand persons, whose bodies
were found in part, or half burnt, besides those that were wholly burnt to
ashes, and could not be found.
About the year 1282, through a great frost and deep snow, five arches of
London bridge were borne down and carried away.
In the year 1289, the bridge was so sore decayed for want of reparations
that men were afraid to pass thereon, and a subsidy was granted towards the
amendment thereof,[38] Sir John Britain being custos of London. 1381, a
great collection or gathering was made of all archbishops, bishops, and
other ecclesiastical persons, for the reparations of London bridge. 1381, Wat
Tyler, and other rebels of Kent, by this bridge entered the city, as ye may
read in my Summary and Annals.
In the year 1395, on St. George’s day, was a great justing on London bridge,
betwixt David Earl of Crawford of Scotland, and the Lord Wells of
England; in the which the Lord Wells was at the third course borne out of
the saddle: which history proveth, that at that time the bridge being coped
on either side, was not replenished with houses built thereupon, as it hath
since been, and now is. The next year, on the 13th of November, the young
Queen Isabell, commonly called the little, for she was but eight years old,
was conveyed from Kenington besides Lamhith, through Southwarke to the
Tower of London, and such a multitude of people went out to see her, that

on London bridge nine persons were crowded to death, of whom the prior
of Tiptre, a place in Essex, was one, and a matron on Cornhill was another.
The Tower on London bridge at the north end of the draw-bridge (for that
bridge was then readily to be drawn up, as well to give passage for ships to
Queenhithe, as for the resistance of any foreign force), was begun to be
built in the year 1426, John Rainwell being mayor.
Another tower there is on the said bridge over the gate at the south end
towards Southwarke, whereof in another place shall be spoken.
In the year 1450, Jack Cade, and other rebels of Kent, by this bridge entered
the city: he struck his sword on London Stone, and said himself then to be
lord of the city, but were by the citizens overcome on the same bridge, and
put to flight, as in my Annals.
In the year 1471, Thomas, the bastard Fawconbridge, besieged this bridge,
burnt the gate, and all the houses to the draw-bridge, that time thirteen in
number.
In the year 1481, a house called the common siege on London bridge fell
down into the Thames; through the fall whereof five men were drowned.
In the year 1553, the 3rd of February, Sir Thomas Wyat, and the Kentish
men, marched from Depeford towards London; after knowledge whereof,
forthwith the draw-bridge was cut down, and the bridge gates shut. Wyat
and his people entered Southwarke, where they lay till the 6th of February,
but could get no entry of the city by the bridge, the same was then so well
defended by the citizens, the Lord William Howard assisting, wherefore he
removed towards Kingstone, etc., as in my Annals.
To conclude of this bridge over the said river of Thames, I affirm, as in
other my descriptions, that it is a work very rare, having with the draw-
bridge twenty arches made of squared stone, of height sixty feet, and in
breadth thirty feet, distant one from another twenty feet, compact and joined
together with vaults and cellars; upon both sides be houses built, so that it
seemeth rather a continual street than a bridge; for the fortifying whereof
against the incessant assaults of the river, it hath overseers and officers, viz.,
wardens, as aforesaid, and others.
Fleete bridge in the west without Ludgate, a bridge of stone, fair coped on
either side with iron pikes; on the which, towards the south, be also certain

lanthorns of stone, for lights to be placed in the winter evenings, for
commodity of travellers. Under the bridge runneth a water, sometimes
called, as I have said, the river of the Wels, since Turnemill brooke, now
Fleete dike, because it runneth by the Fleete, and sometimes about the
Fleete, so under Fleete bridge into the river of Thames. This bridge hath
been far greater in times past, but lessened, as the water course hath been
narrowed. It seemeth this last bridge to be made or repaired at the charges
of John Wels, mayor, in the year 1431, for on the coping is engraven Wels
embraced by angels, like as on the standard in Cheape, which he also built.
Thus much of the bridge: for of the water course, and decay thereof, I have
spoken in another place.
Oldbourne bridge, over the said river of the Wels more towards the north,
was so called, of a bourn that sometimes ran down Oldbourne hill into the
said river. This bridge of stone, like as Fleet bridge from Ludgate west,
serveth for passengers with carriage or otherwise, from Newgate toward the
west and by north.
Cowbridge, more north, over the same water by Cowbridge street or
Cowlane: this bridge being lately decayed, another of timber is made
somewhat more north, by Chick lane, etc.
Bridges over the town ditch there are divers; to wit, without Aldgate,
without Bishopsgate, the postern called Moorgate, the postern of Criplegate
without Aldersgate, the postern of Christ’s hospital, Newgate, and Ludgate;
all these be over paved likewise, with stone level with the streets. But one
other there is of timber over the river of Wels, or Fleet dike, between the
precinct of the Black Friers, and the house of Bridewell.
There have been of old time also, divers bridges in sundry places over the
course of Walbrooke, as before I have partly noted, besides Horseshew
bridge, by the church of St. John Baptist, now called St. John’s upon
Walbrooke. I read, that of old time every person having lands on either side
of the said brook, should cleanse[39] the same, and repair the bridges so far
as their lands extended. More, in the 11th of Edward III. the inhabitants
upon the course of this brook were forced to pile and wall the sides thereof.
Also, that in the 3rd of Henry V. this water-course had many bridges, since
vaulted over with bricks, and the streets where through it passed so paved,
that the same water-course is now hardly discerned. For order was taken in

the 2nd of Edward IV., that such as had ground on either side of Walbrooke,
should vault and pave it over, so far as his ground extended. And thus much
for bridges in this city may suffice.

GATES IN THE WALL OF THIS CITY
Gates in the wall of this city of old time were four; to wit, Aeldgate for the
east, Aldersgate for the north, Ludgate for the west, and the Bridgegate over
the river of Thames for the south; but of later times, for the ease of citizens
and passengers, divers other gates and posterns have been made, as shall be
shown.
In the reign of Henry II. (saith Fitzstephen) there were seven double gates
in the wall of this city, but he nameth them not. It may therefore be
supposed, he meant for the first, the gate next the Tower of London,[40] now
commonly called the Postern, the next be Aeldgate, the third Bishopsgate,
the fourth Ealdersgate, the fifth Newgate, the sixth Ludgate, the seventh
Bridgegate. Since the which time hath been builded the postern called
Moorgate, a postern from Christ’s hospital towards St. Bartholomew’s
hospital in Smithfield, etc. Now of every of these gates and posterns in the
wall, and also of certain water-gates on the river of Thames, severally
somewhat may, and shall be noted, as I find authority, or reasonable
conjecture to warrant me.
For the first, now called the postern by the Tower of London, it showeth by
that part which yet remaineth, to have been a fair and strong arched gate,
partly built of hard stone of Kent, and partly of stone brought from Caen in
Normandy, since the Conquest, and foundation of the high tower, and
served for passengers on foot out of the east, from thence through the city to
Ludgate in the west. The ruin and overthrow of this gate and postern began
in the year 1190, the 2nd of Richard I., when William Longshampe, bishop
of Ely, chancellor of England, caused a part of the city wall, to wit, from the
said gate towards the river of Thames to the white tower, to be broken
down, for the enlarging of the said tower, which he then compassed far
wide about with a wall embattled, and is now the outer wall. He also caused
a broad and deep ditch to be made without the same wall, intending to have
derived the river of Thames with her tides to have flowed about it, which
would not be. But the southside of this gate, being then by undermining at

the foundation loosened, and greatly weakened; at length, to wit, after two
hundred years and odd, the same fell down in the year 1440, the 18th of
Henry VI., and was never since by the citizens re-edified.[41] Such was their
negligence then, and hath bred some trouble to their successors, since they
suffered a weak and wooden building to be there made, inhabited by
persons of lewd life, oft times by inquest of Portsoken ward presented, but
not reformed; whereas of former times the said postern was accounted of as
other gates of the city, and was appointed to men of good credit. Amongst
other, I have read, that in the 49th of Edward III., John Cobbe was admitted
custos of the said postern, and all the habitation thereof, for term of his life,
by William Walworth, then mayor of London, etc. More, that John Credy,
Esq., in the 21st of Richard II., was admitted custos of the said postern and
appurtenances by Richard Whittington, mayor, the aldermen, and
commonalty, etc.

AELDGATE

The next gate in the east is called Aeldgate, of the antiquity or age thereof.
This is one and the first of the four principal gates, and also one of the
seven double gates, mentioned by Fitzstephen. It hath had two pair of gates,
though now but one; the hooks remaineth yet. Also there hath been two
portcloses; the one of them remaineth, the other wanteth, but the place of
letting down is manifest. For antiquity of the gate: it appeareth by a charter
of King Edgar to the knights of Knighten Guild, that in his days the said
port was called Aeldgate, as ye may read in the ward of Portsoken. Also
Matilda the queen, wife to Henry I., having founded the priory of the Holy
Trinity within Aeldgate, gave unto the same church, to Norman the first
prior, and the canons that devoutly serve God therein,[42] the port of
Aeldgate, and the soke or franchises thereunto belonging, with all customs
as free as she held the same; in the which charter she nameth the house
Christ’s church, and reporteth Aeldgate to be of his domain.
More, I read[43] in the year 1215, that in the civil wars between King John
and his barons, the Londoners assisting the barons’ faction, who then
besieged Northampton, and after came to Bedford castle, where they were
well received by William Beauchampe, and captain of the same; having

then also secret intelligence that they might enter the city of London if they
would, they removed their camp to Ware, from thence in the night coming
to London, they entered Aeldgate, and placing guardians or keepers of the
gates, they disposed of all things in the city at their pleasure. They spoiled
the friars’ houses, and searched their coffers;[44] which being done, Robert
Fitzwalter, Geffry Magnavile Earl of Essex, and the Earl of Glocester, chief
leaders of the army, applied all diligence to repair the gates and walls of this
city with the stones taken from the Jews’ broken houses, namely, Aeldgate
being then most ruinous (which had given them an easy entry), they
repaired, or rather newly built, after the manner of the Normans, strongly
arched with bulwarks of stone from Caen in Normandy, and small brick,
called Flanders tile, was brought from thence, such as hath been here used
since the Conquest, and not before.
In the year 1471,[45] the 11th of Edward IV., Thomas, the bastard
Fawconbridge, having assembled a riotous company of shipmen and other
in Essex and Kent, came to London with a great navy of ships, near to the
Tower; whereupon the mayor and aldermen, by consent of a common
council, fortified all along the Thames side, from Baynard’s castle to the
Tower, with armed men, guns, and other instruments of war, to resist the
invasion of the mariners, whereby the Thames side was safely preserved
and kept by the aldermen and other citizens that assembled thither in great
numbers. Whereupon the rebels, being denied passage through the city that
way, set upon Aeldgate, Bishopsgate, Cripplegate, Aeldersgate, London
bridge, and along the river of Thames, shooting arrows and guns into the
city, fired the suburbs, and burnt more than threescore houses. And further,
on Sunday the eleventh of May, five thousand of them assaulting Aeldgate,
won the bulwarks, and entered the city; but the portclose being let down,
such as had entered were slain, and Robert Basset, alderman of Aeldgate
ward, with the recorder, commanded in the name of God to draw up the
portclose; which being done, they issued out, and with sharp shot, and
fierce fight, put their enemies back so far as St. Bottolph’s church, by which
time the Earl Rivers, and lieutenant of the Tower, was come with a fresh
company, which joining together, discomfited the rebels, and put them to
flight, whom the said Robert Basset, with the other citizens, chased to the
Mile’s End, and from thence, some to Popular, some to Stratford, slew
many, and took many of them prisoners. In which space the Bastard having

assayed other places upon the water side, and little prevailed, fled toward
his ships. Thus much for Aeldgate.

BISHOPSGATE

The third, and next toward the north, is called Bishopsgate, for that, as it
may be supposed, the same was first built by some Bishop of London,
though now unknown when, or by whom; but true it is, that the first gate
was first built for ease of passengers toward the east, and by north, as into
Norfolk, Suffolk, Cambridgeshire, etc.; the travellers into which parts,
before the building of this gate, were forced, passing out at Aeldgate, to go
east till they came to the Mile’s end, and then turning on the left hand to
Blethenhall green[46] to Cambridge heath, and so north, or east, and by
north, as their journey lay. If they took not this way, by the east out at
Aeldgate, they must take their way by the north out at Aeldersgate, through
Aeldersgate street and Goswel street towards Iseldon, and by a cross of
stone on their right hand, set up for a mark by the north end of Golding
lane, to turn eastward through a long street, until this day called Alder
street, to another cross standing, where now a smith’s forge is placed by
Sewer’s-ditch church, and then to turn again north towards Totenham,
Endfield, Waltham, Ware, etc. The eldest note that I read of this
Bishopsgate, is that William Blund, one of the sheriffs of London,[47] in the
year 1210, sold to Serle Mercer, and William Almaine, procurators or
wardens of London bridge, all his land, with the garden, in the parish of St.
Buttolph without Bishopsgate, between the land of Richard Casiarin,
towards the north, and the land of Robert Crispie towards the south, and the
highway called Berewards lane on the east, etc.
Next I read in a charter, dated the year 1235, that Walter Brune, citizen of
London, and Rosia his wife, having founded the priory or new hospital of
our blessed Lady, since called St. Mary Spittle without Bishopsgate,
confirmed the same to the honour of God and our blessed Lady, for canons
regular.
Also in the year 1247, Simon Fitzmarie, one of the sheriffs of London, the
29th of Henry III., founded the hospital of St. Mary, called Bethlem without
Bishopsgate. Thus much for the antiquity of this gate.[48]

And now for repairing the same, I find that Henry III. confirmed to the
merchants of the Haunce, that had a house in the city called Guildhalla
Theutonicorum, certain liberties and privileges. Edward I. also confirmed
the same; in the tenth year of whose reign it was found that the said
merchants ought of right to repair the said gate called Bishopsgate;
whereupon Gerard Marbod, alderman of the Haunce and other, then
remaining in the city of London, for themselves, and all other merchants of
the said Haunce, granted two hundred and ten marks sterling to the mayor
and citizens; and covenanted that they and their successors should from
time to time repair the same gate. This gate was again beautifully built in
the year 1479, in the reign of Edward IV., by the said Haunce merchants.
Moreover, about the year 1551, these Haunce merchants, having prepared
stone for that purpose, caused a new gate to be framed, there to have been
set up, but then their liberties, through suit of our English merchants, were
seized into the king’s hand; and so that work was stayed, and the old gate
yet remaineth.

POSTERN OF MOREGATE

Touching the next postern, called Moregate, I find that Thomas Falconer,
mayor, about the year 1415, the third of Henry V., caused the wall of the
city to be broken near unto Coleman street, and there built a postern, now
called Moregate, upon the moor side where was never gate before. This gate
he made for ease of the citizens, that way to pass upon causeys into the field
for their recreation: for the same field was at that time a parish. This postern
was re-edified by William Hampton, fishmonger, mayor, in the year 1472.
In the year also, 1511, the third of Henry VIII., Roger Acheley, mayor,
caused dikes and bridges to be made, and the ground to be levelled, and
made more commodious for passage, since which time the same hath been
heightened. So much that the ditches and bridges are covered, and seemeth
to me that if it be made level with the battlements of the city wall, yet will it
be little the drier, such is the moorish nature of that ground.

POSTERN OF CRIPPLEGATE

The next is the postern of Cripplegate, so called long before the Conquest.
For I read in the history of Edmond,[49] king of the East Angles, written by
Abbo Floriacensis, and by Burchard, sometime secretary to Offa, king of
Marcia, but since by John Lidgate, monk of Bury, that in the year 1010, the
Danes spoiling the kingdom of the East Angles, Alwyne, bishop of
Helmeham, caused the body of King Edmond the Martyr to be brought
from Bedrisworth (now called Bury St. Edmondes), through the kingdom of
the East Saxons, and so to London in at Cripplegate; a place, saith mine
author, so called of cripples begging there: at which gate, it was said, the
body entering, miracles were wrought, as some of the lame to go upright,
praising God. The body of King Edmond rested for the space of three years
in the parish church of St. Gregorie, near unto the cathedral church of St.
Paul. Moreover, the charter of William the Conqueror, confirming the
foundation of the college in London, called St. Martin the Great, hath these
words:[50] “I do give and grant to the same church and canons, serving God
therein, all the land and the moore without the postern, which is called
Cripplegate, on either side the postern.” More I read, that Alfune built the
parish church of St. Giles, nigh a gate of the city, called Porta
Contractorum, or Cripplesgate, about the year 1099.
This postern was sometime a prison, whereunto such citizens and others, as
were arrested for debt or common trespasses, were committed, as they be
now, to the compters, which thing appeareth by a writ of Edward I. in these
words: “Rex vic. London. salutem: ex graui querela B. capt. & detent. in
prisona nostra de Criples gate pro x. l. quas coram Radulpho de Sandwico
tunc custod. ciuitatis nostræ London. & I. de Blackwell ciuis recognit. debit.
etc.” This gate was new built by the brewers of London in the year 1244, as
saith Fabian’s manuscript. Edmond Shaw, goldsmith, mayor in the year
1483, at his decease appointed by his testament his executors, with the cost
of four hundred marks, and the stuff of the old gate, called Cripplesgate, to
build the same gate of new, which was performed and done in the year
1491.

ALDERSGATE

The next is Ældresgate, or Aldersgate,[51] so called not of Aldrich or of
Elders, that is to say, ancient men, builders thereof; not of Eldarne trees,
growing there more abundantly than in other places, as some have fabled,
[51]
but for the very antiquity of the gate itself, as being one of the first four
gates of the city, and serving for the northern parts, as Aldegate for the east;
which two gates, being both old gates, are for difference sake called, the
one Ealdegate, and the other Aldersgate. This is the fourth principal gate,
and hath at sundry times been increased with buildings, namely, on the
south, or inner side, a great frame of timber hath been added and set up,
containing divers large rooms and lodgings; also on the east side is the
addition of one great building of timber, with one large floor, paved with
stone or tile, and a well therein curbed with stone, of a great depth, and
rising into the said room, two stories high from the ground; which well is
the only peculiar note belonging to that gate, for I have not seen the like in
all this city to be raised so high. John Day, stationer, a late famous printer of
many good books, in our time dwelt in this gate, and built much upon the
wall of the city towards the parish church of St. Anne.

POSTERN OUT OF CHRIST’S HOSPITAL

Then is there also a postern gate, made out of the wall on the north side of
the late dissolved cloister of Friers minors, commonly of their habit called
Grey friars, now Christ’s church and hospital. This postern was made in the
first year of Edward VI. to pass from the said hospital of Christ’s church
unto the hospital of St. Bartlemew in Smithfield.

NEWGATE

The next gate on the west, and by north, is termed Newgate, as latelier built
than the rest, and is the fifth principal gate. This gate was first erected about
the reign of Henry I. or of King Stephen, upon this occasion.[52] The
cathedral church of St. Paul, being burnt about the year 1086, in the reign of
William the Conqueror, Mauritius, then bishop of London, repaired not the
old church, as some have supposed, but began the foundation of a new
work, such as men then judged would never have been performed; it was to

them so wonderful for height, length, and breadth, as also in respect it was
raised upon arches or vaults, a kind of workmanship brought in by the
Normans, and never known to the artificers of this land before that time,
etc. After Mauritius, Richard Beamore did wonderfully advance the work of
the said church, purchasing the large streets and lanes round about, wherein
were wont to dwell many lay people, which grounds he began to compass
about with a strong wall of stone and gates. By means of this increase of the
church territory, but more by inclosing of ground for so large a cemetery or
churchyard, the high and large street stretching from Aldegate in the east
until Ludgate in the west, was in this place so crossed and stopped up, that
the carriage through the city westward was forced to pass without the said
churchyard wall on the north side, through Pater noster row; and then south,
down Ave Mary lane, and again west, through Bowyer row to Ludgate; or
else out of Cheepe, or Watheling street, to turn south, through the old
Exchange; then west through Carter lane, again north by Creede lane, and
then west to Ludgate: which passage, by reason of so often turning, was
very cumbersome and dangerous both for horse and man; for remedy
whereof a new gate was made, and so called, by which men and cattle, with
all manner of carriages, might pass more directly (as afore) from Aldegate,
through West Cheape by Paules, on the north side; through St. Nicholas
shambles and Newgate market to Newgate, and from thence to any part
westward over Oldborne bridge, or turning without the gate into
Smithfielde, and through Iseldon to any part north and by west. This gate
hath of long time been a gaol, or prison for felons and trespassers, as
appeareth by records[53] in the reign of King John, and of other kings;
amongst the which I find one testifying, that in the year 1218, the 3rd of
King Henry III., the king writeth unto the sheriffs of London, commanding
them to repair the gaol of Newgate for the safe keeping of his prisoners,
promising that the charges laid out should be allowed unto them upon their
account in the Exchequer.
Moreover, in the year 1241, the Jews of Norwich were hanged for
circumcising a Christian child; their house called the Thor was pulled down
and destroyed; Aron, the son of Abraham, a Jew, at London, and the other
Jews, were constrained to pay twenty thousand marks at two terms in the
year, or else to be kept perpetual prisoners in Newgate of London, and in
other prisons. In 1255, King Henry III. lodging in the tower of London,
upon displeasure conceived towards the city of London, for the escape of

John Offrem, a prisoner, being a clerk convict, out of Newgate, which had
killed a prior that was of alliance to the king, as cousin to the queen: he sent
for the mayor and sheriffs to come before him to answer the matter; the
mayor laid the fault from him to the sheriffs, forasmuch as to them
belonged the keeping of all prisoners within the city; and so the mayor
returned home, but the sheriffs remained there prisoners by the space of a
month and more; and yet they excused themselves, in that the fault chiefly
rested in the bishop’s officers; for whereas the prisoner was under custody,
they at his request had granted license to imprison the offender within the
gaol of Newgate, but so as the bishop’s officers were charged to see him
safely kept. The king, notwithstanding all this, demanded of the city three
thousand marks for a fine.
In the year 1326, Robert Baldoke, the king’s chancellor, was put in
Newgate, the 3rd of Edward III. In the year 1337, Sir John Poultney gave
four marks by the year to the relief of prisoners in Newgate. In the year
1385, William Walworth gave somewhat to relieve the prisoners in
Newgate, so have many others since. In the year 1414, the gaolers of
Newgate and Ludgate died, and prisoners in Newgate to the number of
sixty-four. In the year 1418, the parson of Wrotham, in Kent, was
imprisoned in Newgate. In the year 1422, the first of Henry VI., license was
granted to John Coventre, Jenken Carpenter, and William Grove, executors
to Richard Whittington, to re-edify the gaol of Newgate, which they did
with his goods.
Thomas Knowles, grocer, sometime mayor of London, by license of
Reynold, prior of St. Bartholomew’s in Smithfield, and also of John
Wakering, master of the hospital of St. Bartholomew, and his brethren,
conveyed the waste of water at the cistern near to the common fountain and
chapel of St. Nicholas (situate by the said hospital) to the gaols of Newgate,
and Ludgate, for the relief of the prisoners. Tuesday next after Palm Sunday
1431, all the prisoners of Ludgate were removed into Newgate by Walter
Chartesey, and Robert Large, sheriffs of London; and on the 13th of April
the same sheriffs (through the false suggestion of John Kingesell, jailor of
Newgate) set from thence eighteen persons free men, and these were let to
the compters, pinioned as if they had been felons; but on the sixteenth of
June, Ludgate was again appointed for free men, prisoners for debt; and the
same day the said free men entered by ordinance of the mayor, aldermen,

and commons, and by them Henry Deane, tailor, was made keeper of
Ludgate prison. In the year 1457, a great fray was in the north country
between Sir Thomas Percie, Lord Egremond, and the Earl of Salisbury’s
sons, whereby many were maimed and slain; but, in the end, the Lord
Egremond being taken, was by the king’s counsel found in great default,
and therefore condemned in great sums of money, to be paid to the Earl of
Salisbury, and in the meantime committed to Newgate. Not long after, Sir
Thomas Percie, Lord Egremond, and Sir Richard Percie his brother, being
in Newgate, broke out of prison by night, and went to the king; the other
prisoners took the leads of the gate, and defended it a long while against the
sheriffs and all their officers, insomuch that they were forced to call more
aid of the citizens, whereby they lastly subdued them, and laid them in
irons: and this may suffice for Newgate.

LUDGATE

In the west is the next, and sixth principal gate, and is called Ludgate, as
first built (saith Geoffrey Monmouth) by King Lud, a Briton, about the year
before Christ’s nativity, 66. Of which building, and also of the name, as
Ludsgate, or Fludsgate, hath been of late some question among the learned;
wherefore I overpass it, as not to my purpose, only referring the reader to
that I have before written out of Cæsar’s Commentaries, and other Roman
writers, concerning a town or city amongst the Britons. This gate I suppose
to be one of the most ancient; and as Aldgate was built for the east, so was
this Ludsgate for the west. I read,[54] as I told you, that in the year 1215, the
17th of King John, the barons of the realm, being in arms against the king,
entered this city, and spoiled the Jews’ houses; which being done, Robert
Fitzwater and Geffrey de Magnavilla, Earl of Essex, and the Earl of
Gloucester, chief leaders of the army, applied all diligence to repair the
gates and walls of this city, with the stones of the Jews’ broken houses,
especially (as it seemeth) they then repaired, or rather new built Ludgate.
For in the year 1586, when the same gate was taken down to be newly built,
there was found couched within the wall thereof a stone taken from one of
the Jews’ houses, wherein was graven in Hebrew characters these words
following: Hæc est statio Rabbi Mosis, filii insignis Rabbi Isaac: which is
to say, this is the station or ward of Rabbi Moyses, the son of the

honourable Rabbi Isaac, and had been fixed upon the front of one of the
Jews’ houses, as a note or sign that such a one dwelt there. In the year 1260,
this Ludgate was repaired, and beautified with images of Lud, and other
kings, as appeareth by letters patent of license given to the citizens of
London, to take up stone for that purpose, dated the 25th of Henry III.
These images of kings in the reign of Edward VI. had their heads smitten
off, and were otherwise defaced by[55] such as judged every image to be an
idol; and in the reign of Queen Mary were repaired, as by setting new heads
on their old bodies, etc. All which so remained until the year 1586, the 28th
of Queen Elizabeth, when the same gate being sore decayed, was clean
taken down; the prisoners in the meantime remaining in the large south-east
quadrant to the same gate adjoining; and the same year the whole gate was
newly and beautifully built, with the images of Lud and others, as afore, on
the east side, and the picture of her majesty Queen Elizabeth on the west
side: all which was done at the common charges of the citizens, amounting
to fifteen hundred pounds or more.
This gate was made a free prison in the year 1378, the 1st of Richard II.,
Nicholas Brembar being mayor.[56] The same was confirmed in the year
1382, John Northampton being mayor, by a common council in the
Guildhall; by which it was ordained that all freemen of this city should, for
debt, trespasses, accounts, and contempts, be imprisoned in Ludgate, and
for treasons, felonies, and other criminal offences, committed to Newgate,
etc. In the year 1431, the 10th of King Henry VI., John Wells being mayor,
a court of common council established ordinances (as William Standon and
Robert Chicheley, late mayors, before had done), touching the guard and
government of Ludgate and other prisons.
Also in the year 1463, the third of Edward IV., Mathew Philip, being mayor,
in a common council, at the request of the well-disposed, blessed, and
devout woman, Dame Agnes Forster, widow, late wife to Stephen Forster,
fishmonger, sometime mayor, for the comfort and relief of all the poor
prisoners, certain articles were established. Imprimis, that the new works
then late edified by the same Dame Agnes, for the enlarging of the prison of
Ludgate, from thenceforth should be had and taken as a part and parcel of
the said prison of Ludgate; so that both the old and new work of Ludgate
aforesaid be one prison, gaol keeping, and charge for evermore.

The said quadrant, strongly built of stone by the beforenamed Stephen
Forster, and Agnes his wife, containeth a large walking-place by ground of
thirty-eight feet and a half in length, besides the thickness of the walls,
which are at the least six foot, makes altogether forty-four feet and a half;
the breadth within the walls is twenty-nine feet and a half, so that the
thickness of the walls maketh it thirty five feet and a half in breadth. The
like room it hath over it for lodgings, and over it again fair leads to walk
upon, well embattled, all for fresh air and ease of prisoners, to the end they
should have lodging and water free without charge, as by certain verses
graven in copper, and fixed on the said quadrant, I have read in form
following:—

“Devout souls that pass this way,
For Stephen Forster, late mayor, heartily pray;
And Dame Agnes his spouse to God consecrate,
That of pity this house made for Londoners in Ludgate.
So that for lodging and water prisoners here nought pay,
As their keepers shall all answer at dreadful doomsday.”

This place and one other of his arms, three broad arrow-heads, taken down
with the old gate, I caused to be fixed over the entry of the said quadrant;
but the verses being unhappily turned inward to the wall, procured the like
in effect to be graven outward in prose, declaring him to be a fishmonger,
because some upon a light occasion (as a maiden’s head in a glass window)
had fabled him to be a mercer, and to have begged there at Ludgate, etc.
Thus much for Ludgate.
Next this is there a breach in the wall of the city, and a bridge of timber
over the Fleet dike, betwixt Fleetebridge and Thames, directly over against
the house of Bridewel. Thus much for gates in the wall.
Water-gates on the banks of the river Thames have been many, which being
purchased by private men, are also put to private use, and the old names of
them forgotten; but of such as remain, from the west towards the east, may
be said as followeth:—
The Blacke-friers stairs, a free landing-place.
Then a water-gate at Puddle wharf, of one Puddle that kept a wharf on the
west side thereof, and now of Puddle water, by means of many horses

watered there.
Then Powle’s wharf, also a free landing-place with stairs, etc.
Then Broken wharf, and other such like.
But, Ripa Regina, the Queene’s bank, or Queene hithe may well be
accounted the very chief and principal water-gate of this city, being a
common strand or landing-place, yet equal with, and of old time far
exceeding, Belins gate, as shall be shown in the ward of Queene hithe.
The next is Downe gate, so called of the sudden descending or down-going
of that way from St. John’s church upon Walbrooke unto the river of
Thames, whereby the water in the channel there hath such a swift course,
that in the year 1574, on the fourth of September, after a strong shower of
rain, a lad, of the age of eighteen years, minding to have leapt over the
channel, was taken by the feet, and borne down with the violence of that
narrow stream, and carried toward the Thames with such a violent
swiftness, as no man could rescue or stay him, till he came against a cart-
wheel that stood in the water-gate, before which time he was drowned and
stark dead.
This was sometimes a large water-gate, frequented of ships and other
vessels, like as the Queene hithe, and was a part thereof, as doth appear by
an inquisition made in the 28th year of Henry III., wherein was found, that
as well corn as fish, and all other things coming to the port of Downegate,
were to be ordered after the customs of the Queene’s hithe, for the king’s
use; as also that the corn arriving between the gate of the Guild hall of the
merchants of Cullen (the Styleyard), which is east from Downegate, and the
house then pertaining to the Archbishop of Canterbury, west from
Baynarde’s Castle, was to be measured by the measure, and measurer of the
Queene’s soke, or Queene hithe. I read also, in the 19th of Edward III., that
customs were then to be paid for ships and other vessels resting at
Downegate, as if they rode at Queene hithe, and as they now do at
Belingsgate. And thus much for Downegate may suffice.
The next was called Wolfes gate,[57] in the ropery in the parish of
Allhallowes the Lesse, of later time called Wolfes lane, but now out of use;
for the lower part was built on by the Earle of Shrewsburie, and the other
part was stopped up and built on by the chamberlain of London.

The next is Ebgate,[58] a water-gate, so called of old time, as appeareth by
divers records of tenements near unto the same adjoining. It standeth near
unto the church of St. Laurence Pountney, but is within the parish of St.
Marten Ordegare. In place of this gate is now a narrow passage to the
Thames, and is called Ebgate lane, but more commonly the Old Swan.
Then is there a water-gate at the bridge foot, called Oyster gate, of oysters
that were there of old time, commonly to be sold, and was the chiefest
market for them and for other shell-fishes. There standeth now an engine or
forcier, for the winding up of water to serve the city, whereof I have already
spoken.

BRIDGE GATE

The next is the Bridge gate, so called of London Bridge, whereon it
standeth. This was one of the four first and principal gates of the city, long
before the Conquest, when there stood a bridge of timber, and is the seventh
and last principal gate mentioned by W. Fitzstephen; which gate being
new[59] made, when the bridge was built was built of stone, hath been
oftentimes since repaired. This gate, with the tower upon it, in the year 1436
fell down, and two of the farthest arches southwards also fell therewith, and
no man perished or was hurt therewith. To the repairing whereof, divers
wealthy citizens gave large sums of money; namely, Robert Large,
sometime mayor, one hundred marks; Stephen Forster, twenty pounds; Sir
John Crosbye, alderman, one hundred pounds, etc. But in the year 1471,[60]
the Kentish mariners, under the conduct of bastard Fauconbridge, burned
the said gate and thirteen houses on the bridge, besides the Beer houses at
St. Katherine’s, and many others in the suburbs.
The next is Buttolphe’s gate, so called of the parish church of St. Buttolph,
near adjoining. This gate was sometimes given or confirmed by William
Conqueror to the monks of Westminster in these words: “W. rex Angliæ,
etc., William, king of England, sendeth greeting to the sheriffes, and all his
ministers, as also to all his loving subjects, French and English, of London:
Know ye that I have granted to God and St. Peter of Westminster, and to the
abbot Vitalis, the gift which Almundus of the port of S. Buttolph gave them,
when he was there made monke: that is to say, his Lords court with the

houses, and one wharf, which is at the head of London bridge, and all other
his lands which he had in the same city, in such sort as King Edward more
beneficially and amply granted the same; and I will and command that they
shall enjoy the same well and quietly and honourably, with sake and soke,
etc.”
The next is Bellinsgate, used as an especial port, or harbour, for small ships
and boats coming thereto, and is now[61] most frequented, the Queen’s hithe
being almost forsaken. How this gate took that name, or of what antiquity
the same is, I must leave uncertain, as not having any ancient record
thereof, more than that Geoffrey Monmouth writeth, that Belin, a king of
the Britons, about four hundred years before Christ’s nativity, built this
gate, and named it Belin’s gate, after his own calling; and that when he was
dead, his body being burnt, the ashes, in a vessel of brass, were set upon a
high pinnacle of stone over the same gate. But Cæsar and other Roman
writers affirm, of cities, walls, and gates, as ye have before heard; and
therefore it seemeth to me not to be so ancient, but rather to have taken that
name of some later owner of the place, happily named Beling, or Biling, as
Somar’s key, Smart’s key, Frosh wharf, and others, thereby took their
names of their owners. Of this gate more shall be said when we come to
Belin’s gate ward.
Then have you a water-gate, on the west side of Wool wharf, or Customers’
key,[62] which is commonly called the water-gate, at the south end of Water
lane.
One other water-gate there is by the bulwark of the Tower, and this is the
last and farthest water-gate eastward, on the river of Thames, so far as the
city of London extendeth within the walls; both which last named water-
gates be within the Tower ward.
Besides these common water-gates, were divers private wharfs and keys, all
along from the east to the west of this city, on the bank of the river of
Thames; merchants of all nations had landing-places, warehouses, cellars,
and stowage of their goods and merchandises, as partly shall be touched in
the wards adjoining to the said river. Now, for the ordering and keeping
these gates of this city in the night time, it was appointed in the year of
Christ 1258, by Henry III., the 42nd of his reign,[63] that the ports of
England should be strongly kept, and that the gates of London should be

new repaired, and diligently kept in the night, for fear of French deceits,
whereof one writeth these verses:

“Per noctem portæ clauduntur Londoniarum,
Mœnia ne forte fraus frangat Francigenarum.”

OF TOWERS AND CASTLES
“The city of London (saith Fitzstephen) hath in the east a very great and a
most strong palatine Tower, whose turrets and walls do rise from a deep
foundation, the mortar thereof being tempered with the blood of beasts. In
the west part are two most strong castles, etc.” To begin therefore with the
most famous Tower of London, situate in the east, near unto the river of
Thames: it hath been the common opinion, and some have written (but of
none assured ground), that Julius Cæsar, the first conqueror of the Britons,
was the original author and founder, as well thereof as also of many other
towers, castles, and great buildings within this realm; but (as I have already
before noted) Cæsar remained not here so long, nor had he in his head any
such matter, but only to dispatch a conquest of this barbarous country, and
to proceed to greater matters. Neither do the Roman writers make mention
of any such buildings created by him here; and therefore leaving this, and
proceeding to more grounded authority, I find in a fair register-book,
containing the acts of the Bishops of Rochester, set down by Edmond de
Hadenham, that William I., surnamed Conqueror, built the Tower of
London; to wit, the great white and square tower there, about the year of
Christ 1078, appointing Gundulph, then Bishop of Rochester, to be
principal surveyor and overseer of that work, who was for that time lodged
in the house of Edmere, a burgess of London; the very words of which mine
author are these: “Gundulphus Episcopus mandato Willielmi Regis magni
præfuit operi magnæ Turris London. quo tempore hospitatus est apud
quendam Edmerum Burgensem London. qui dedit unum were Ecclesiæ
Rofen.”
Ye have before heard that the wall of this city was all round about furnished
with towers and bulwarks, in due distance every one from other; and also
that the river Thames, with his ebbing and flowing, on the south side, had
subverted the said wall and towers there. Wherefore King William, for
defence of this city, in place most dangerous, and open to the enemy, having
taken down the second bulwark in the east part of the wall from the

Thames, built this tower, which was the great square tower, now called the
White Tower, and hath been since at divers times enlarged with other
buildings adjoining, as shall be shown. This tower was by tempest of
wind[64] sore shaken in the year 1090, the 4th of William Rufus, and was
again by the said Rufus and Henry I. repaired. They also caused a castle to
be built under the said tower, namely, on the south side towards the
Thames, and also incastellated the same round about.
Henry Huntingdon, libro sexto, hath these words: “William Rufus
challenged the investure of prelates; he pilled and shaved the people with
tribute, especially to spend about the Tower of London, and the great hall at
Westminster.”
Othowerus, Acolinillus, Otto, and Geffrey Magnaville, Earl of Essex, were
four the first constables of this Tower of London, by succession; all which
held by force a portion of land (that pertained to the priory of the Holy
Trinitie within Aldgate); that is to say, East Smithfield, near unto the Tower,
making thereof a vineyard,[65] and would not depart from it till the 2nd year
of King Stephen, when the same was abridged and restored to the church.
This said Geffrey Magnaville was Earl of Essex, constable of the Tower,
sheriff of London, Middlesex, Essex, and Hertfordshire, as appeareth by a
charter of Maud the empress, dated 1141. He also fortified the Tower of
London against King Stephen; but the king took him in his court at St.
Albones, and would not deliver him till he had rendered the Tower of
London, with the castles of Walden and Plashey in Essex. In the year 1153
the Tower of London and the castle of Windsor were by the king delivered
to Richard de Lucie, to be safely kept. In the year 1155, Thomas Becket
being chancellor to Henry II., caused the Flemings to be banished out of
England,[66] their castles lately built to be pulled down, and the Tower of
London to be repaired.
About the year 1190, the 2nd of Richard I., William Longshampe, Bishop of
Elie, Chancellor of England, for cause of dissension betwixt him and Earl
John, the king’s brother that was rebel, inclosed the tower and castle of
London, with an outward wall of stone embattled, and also caused a deep
ditch to be cast about the same, thinking (as I have said before) to have
environed it with the river of Thames. By the making of this inclosure and
ditch in East Smithfield, the church of the Holy Trinitie in London lost half

a mark rent by the year, and the mill was removed that belonged to the poor
brethren of the hospital of St. Katherine,[67] and to the church of the Holy
Trinitie aforesaid, which was no small loss and discommodity to either part;
and the garden which the king had hired of the brethren for six marks the
year, for the most part was wasted and marred by the ditch. Recompense
was often promised, but never performed, until King Edward coming after,
gave to the brethren five marks and a half for that part which the ditch had
devoured, and the other part thereof without he yielded to them again,
which they hold: and of the said rent of five marks and a half, they have a
deed, by virtue whereof they are well paid to this day.
It is also to be noted, and cannot be denied, but that the said inclosure and
ditch took the like or greater quantity of ground from the city within the
wall; namely, one of that part called the Tower Hill, besides breaking down
of the city wall, from the White Tower to the first gate of the city, called the
Postern; yet have I not read of any quarrel made by the citizens, or
recompense demanded by them for that matter, because all was done for
good of the city’s defence thereof, and to their good likings. But Matthew
Paris writeth, that in the year 1239, King Henry III. fortified the Tower of
London to another end; wherefore the citizens, fearing lest that were done
to their detriment, complained, and the king answered, that he had not done
it to their hurt, but (saith he) I will from henceforth do as my brother doth,
in building and fortifying castles, who beareth the name to be wiser than I
am. It followed in the next year, saith mine author, the said noble buildings
of the stone gate and bulwark, which the king had caused to be made by the
Tower of London, on the west side thereof, were shaken as it had been with
an earthquake, and fell down, which the king again commanded to be built
in better sort than before, which was done; and yet again, in the year 1247,
the said wall and bulwarks that were newly built, wherein the king had
bestowed more than twelve thousand marks, were irrecoverably thrown
down, as afore; for the which chance the citizens of London were nothing
sorry, for they were threatened that the said wall and bulwarks were built, to
the end that if any of them would contend for the liberties of the city, they
might be imprisoned; and that many might be laid in divers prisons, many
lodgings were made that no one should speak with another: thus much
Matthew Paris for this building. More of Henry III., his dealings against the
citizens of London, we may read in the said author, in 1245, 1248, 1249,
1253, 1255, 1256, etc. But, concerning the said wall and bulwark, the same

was finished, though not in his time; for I read that Edward I., in the second
of his reign, commanded the treasurer and chamberlain of the Exchequer to
deliver out of his treasury unto Miles of Andwarp two hundred marks, of
the fines taken out of divers merchants or usurers of London, for so be the
words of the record, towards the work of the ditch then new made, about
the said bulwark, now called the Lion Tower. I find also recorded, that
Henry III., in the 46th of his reign, wrote to Edward of Westminster,
commanding him that he should buy certain perie plants, and set the same
in the place without his Tower of London, within the wall of the said city,
which of late he had caused to be inclosed with a mud wall, as may appear
by this that followeth: the mayor and commonalty of London were fined for
throwing down the said earthen wall against the Tower of London, the 9th
of Edward II. Edward IV. in place thereof built a wall of brick. But now for
the Lion Tower and lions in England, the original, as I have read, was thus.
Henry I. built his manor of Wodstock, with a park, which he walled about
with stone, seven miles in compass, destroying for the same divers villages,
churches, and chapels; and this was the first park in England. He placed
therein, besides great store of deer, divers strange beasts to be kept and
nourished, such as were brought to him from far countries, as lions,
leopards, linces, porpentines,[68] and such other. More I read, that in the
year 1235, Frederick the emperor sent to Henry III. three leopards, in token
of his regal shield of arms, wherein three leopards were pictured; since the
which time those lions and others have been kept in a part of this bulwark,
now called the Lion Tower, and their keepers there lodged. King Edward II.,
in the 12th of his reign, commanded the sheriffs of London to pay to the
keepers of the king’s leopard in the Tower of London sixpence the day for
the sustenance of the leopard, and three-halfpence a day for diet for the said
keeper, out of the fee farm of the said city. More, in the 16th of Edward III.,
one lion, one lioness, one leopard, and two cat lions, in the said Tower, were
committed to the custody of Robert, the son of John Bowre.
Edward IV. fortified the Tower of London, and inclosed with brick, as is
aforesaid, a certain piece of ground, taken out of the Tower Hill, west from
the Lion Tower, now called the bulwark. His officers also, in the 5th of his
reign, set upon the said hill both scaffold and gallows, for the execution of
offenders; whereupon the mayor and his brethren complained to the king,
and were answered that the same was not done in derogation of the city’s

liberties, and thereof caused proclamation to be made, etc., as shall be
shown in Tower street.
Richard III., repaired and built in this tower somewhat. Henry VIII., in
1532, repaired the White Tower, and other parts thereof. In the year 1548,
the 2nd of Edward VI., on the 22nd of November, in the night, a Frenchman
lodged in the round bulwark, betwixt the west gate and the postern, or
drawbridge, called the warders’ gate, by setting fire on a barrel of
gunpowder, blew up the said bulwark, burnt himself, and no more persons.
This bulwark, was forthwith again new built.
And here, because I have by occasion spoken of the west gate of this tower
the same, as the most principal, is used for the receipt and delivery of all
kinds of carriages, without the which gate divers bulwarks and gates,
towards the north, etc. Then near within this west gate, opening to the
south, is a strong postern for passengers by the ward-house, over a
drawbridge let down for that purpose. Next on the same south side, toward
the east, is a large water-gate, for receipt of boats and small vessels, partly
under a stone bridge from the river of Thames. Beyond it is a small postern,
with a drawbridge, seldom let down but for the receipt of some great
persons, prisoners. Then towards the east is a great and strong gate,
commonly called the Iron gate, but not usually opened. And thus much for
the foundation, building, and repairing of this tower, with the gates and
posterns, may suffice. And now somewhat of accidents in the same shall be
shown.
In the year 1196, William Fitzosbert, a citizen of London, seditiously
moving the common people to seek liberty, and not to be subject to the rich
and more mighty, at length was taken and brought before the Archbishop of
Canterbury in the Tower, where he was by the judges condemned, and by
the heels drawn thence to the Elms in Smithfield, and there hanged.
In 1214, King John[69] wrote to Geffrey Magnaville to deliver the Tower of
London, with the prisoners, armour, and all other things found therein
belonging to the king, to William, archdeacon of Huntingdon. In the year
1216, the 1st of Henry III., the said Tower was delivered to Lewis of France
and the barons of England.[70]
In the year 1206 pleas of the crown were pleaded in the Tower; likewise in
the year 1220, and likewise in the year 1224, and again in the year 1243,

before William of Yorke, Richard Passelew, Henry Brahe, Jerome of
Saxton, justices.
In the year 1222, the citizens of London having made a tumult against the
abbot of Westminster, Hubert of Burge, chief justice of England, came to
the Tower of London, called before him the mayor and aldermen, of whom
he inquired for the principal authors of that sedition; amongst whom one,
named Constantine Fitz Aelulfe, avowed that he was the man, and had done
much less than he ought to have done: whereupon the justice sent him with
two other to Falks de Brent, who with armed men brought them to the
gallows, where they were hanged.
In the year 1244, Griffith, the eldest son of Leoline, Prince of Wales, being
kept prisoner in the Tower, devised means of escape, and having in the
night made of the hangings, sheets, etc., a long line, he put himself down
from the top of the Tower, but in the sliding, the weight of his body, being a
very big and a fat man, brake the rope, and he fell and brake his neck
withall.
In the year 1253, King Henry III. imprisoned the sheriffs of London in the
Tower more than a month, for the escape of a prisoner out of Newgate, as
you may read in the chapter of Gates.
In the year 1260, King Henry, with his queen (for fear of the barons), were
lodged in the Tower. The next year he sent for his lords, and held his
parliament there.
In the year 1263, when the queen would have removed from the Tower by
water towards Windsor, sundry Londoners got them together to the bridge,
under the which she was to pass, and not only cried out upon her with
reproachful words, but also threw mire and stones at her, by which she was
constrained to return for the time; but in the year 1265, the said citizens
were fain to submit themselves to the king for it, and the mayor, aldermen,
and sheriffs were sent to divers prisons, and a custos also was set over the
city; to wit, Othon, constable of the Tower, etc.
In the year 1282, Leoline, prince of Wales, being taken at Bewlth castle,
Roger Lestrange cut off his head, which Sir Roger Mortimer caused to be
crowned with ivy, and set it upon the Tower of London.

In the year 1290, divers justices, as well of the bench as of the assizes, were
sent prisoners to the Tower, which with great sums of money redeemed
their liberty. Edward II., the 14th of his reign, appointed for prisoners in the
Tower, a knight twopence the day, an esquire one penny the day, to serve
for their diet.
In the year 1320, the king’s justices sat in the Tower, for trial of matters;
whereupon John Gifors, late mayor of London, and many others, fled the
city, for fear to be charged of things they had presumptuously done.
In the year 1321, the Mortimers yielding themselves to the king, he sent
them prisoners to the Tower, where they remained long, and were adjudged
to be drawn and hanged. But at length Roger Mortimer, of Wigmore, by
giving to his keepers a sleepy drink, escaped out of the Tower, and his uncle
Roger, being still kept there, died about five years after.
In the year 1326, the citizens of London won the Tower, wresting the keys
out of the constable’s hands, delivered all the prisoners, and kept both city
and Tower to the use of Isabel the queen, and Edward her son.
In the year 1330, Roger Mortimer, Earl of March, was taken and brought to
the Tower, from whence he was brought to the Elms, and there hanged.
In the year 1344, King Edward III., in the 18th of his reign, commanded
florences of gold to be made and coined in the Tower; that is to say, a penny
piece of the value of five shillings and eight pence, the halfpenny piece of
the value of three shillings and four pence, and a farthing piece worth
twenty pence; Percevall de Port of Lake being then master of the coin. And
this is the first coining of gold in the Tower, whereof I have read, and also
the first coinage of gold in England. I find also recorded, that the said king
in the same year ordained his exchange of money to be kept in Serne’s
Tower, a part of the king’s house in Bucklesbury. And here to digress a little
(by occasion offered), I find that, in times before passed, all great sums
were paid by weight of gold or silver, as so many pounds or marks of silver,
or so many pounds or marks of gold, cut into blanks, and not stamped, as I
could prove by many good authorities which I overpass. The smaller sums
also were paid in starlings, which were pence so called, for other coins they
had none. The antiquity of this starling penny usual in this realm is from the
reign of Henry II., notwithstanding the Saxon coins before the Conquest
were pence of fine silver the full weight, and somewhat better than the latter

starlings, as I have tried by conference of the pence of Burghrede, king of
Mercia, Aelfred, Edward, and Edelred, kings of the West Saxons,
Plegmond, Archbishop of Canterbury, and others. William the Conqueror’s
penny also was fine silver of the weight of the easterling, and had on the
one side stamped an armed head, with a beardless face,—for the Normans
wore no beards,—with a sceptre in his hand. The inscription in the
circumference was this: “Le Rei Wilam;”[71] on the other side, a cross
double to the ring, between four rowals of six points.
King Henry I. his penny was of the like weight, fineness, form of face,
cross, etc.
This Henry, in the 8th year of his reign, ordained the penny, which was
round, so to be quartered by the cross, that they might easily be broken into
halfpence and farthings.[72] In the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th of King
Richard I. his reign, and afterwards, I find commonly easterling money
mentioned, and yet ofttimes the same is called argent, as afore, and not
otherwise.
The first great sum that I read of to be paid in easterlings was in the reign of
Richard I., when Robert, Earl of Leicester, being prisoner in France,
proffered for his ransom a thousand marks easterlings, notwithstanding the
easterling pence were long before. The weight of the easterling penny may
appear by divers statutes, namely, of weights and measures, made in the
51st of Henry III. in these words: “Thirty-two graines of wheat, drie and
round, taken in the middest of the eare, shoulde be the weight of a starling
penie, 20 of those pence should waye one ounce, 12 ounces a pound Troy.”
It followeth in the statute eight pound to make a gallon of wine, and eight
gallons a bushel of London measure, etc. Notwithstanding which statute, I
find, in the 8th of Edward I., Gregorie Rokesley, mayor of London, being
chief master or minister of the Kinge’s Exchange, or mintes, a new coin
being then appointed, the pound of easterling money should contain as
afore twelve ounces; to wit, fine silver, such as was then made into foil, and
was commonly called silver of Guthurons lane,[73] eleven ounces, two
easterlings, and one ferling or farthing, and the other seventeen pence ob. q.
[74]
to be alloy. Also, the pound of money ought to weigh twenty shillings
and three pence by account; so that no pound ought to be over twenty
shillings and three pence, nor less than twenty shillings and two pence by

account; the ounce to weigh twenty pence, the penny weight twenty-four
grains (which twenty-four by weight then appointed were as much as the
former thirty-two grains of wheat), a penny force twenty-five grains and a
half, the penny deble or feeble twenty-two grains and a half, etc.[75]
Now for the penny easterling, how it took that name I think good briefly to
touch. It hath been said, that Numa Pompilius, the second king of the
Romans, commanded money first to be made, of whose name they were
called nummi; and when copper pence, silver pence, and gold pence, were
made, because every silver penny was worth ten copper pence, and every
gold penny worth ten silver pence, the pence therefore were called in Latin,
denarii, and oftentimes the pence are named of the matter and stuff of gold
or silver. But the money of England was called of the workers and makers
thereof; as the florin of gold is called of the Florentines, that were the
workers thereof, and so the easterling pence took their name of the
Easterlings which did first make this money in England, in the reign of
Henry II.
Thus have I set down according to my reading in antiquity of money
matters, omitting the imaginations of late writers, of whom some have said
easterling money to take that name of a star, stamped in the border or ring
of the penny; other some of a bird called a star or starling stamped in the
circumference; and other (more unlikely) of being coined at Strivelin or
Starling, a town in Scotland, etc.
Now concerning halfpence and farthings, the account of which is more
subtle than the pence, I need not speak of them more than that they were
only made in the Exchange at London, and nowhere else: first appointed to
be made by Edward I. in the 8th of his reign; and also at the same time the
said king coined some few groats of silver, but they were not usual. The
king’s Exchange as London was near unto the cathedral church of St. Paul,
and is to this day commonly called the Old Change, but in evidences the
Old Exchange.
The king’s exchanger in this place was to deliver out to every other
exchanger throughout England, or other the king’s dominions, their coining
irons, that is to say, one standard or staple, and two trussels or puncheons;
and when the same was spent and worn, to receive them with an account
what sum had been coined, and also their pix or bore of assay, and deliver

other irons new graven, etc. I find that in the 9th of King John, there was
besides the mint at London, other mints at Winchester, Excester, Chichester,
Canterburie, Rochester, Ipswich, Norwich, Linne, Lincolne, York, Carleil,
Northampton, Oxford, St. Edmondsbury, and Durham. The exchanger,
examiner, and trier, buyeth the silver for coinage, answering for every
hundred pounds of silver bought in bullion or otherwise, ninety-eight
pounds fifteen shillings, for he taketh twenty-five shillings for coinage.
King Edward I., in the 27th of his reign, held a parliament at Stebenheth, in
the house of Henry Waleis, mayor of London, wherein amongst other things
there handled, the transporting of sterling money was forbidden.
In the year 1351, William Edington, bishop of Winchester, and treasurer of
England, a wise man, but loving the king’s commodity more than the
wealth of the whole realm, and common people (saith mine author[76])
caused a new coin, called a groat, and a half-groat, to be coined and
stamped, the groat to be taken for four pence, and the half-groat for two
pence, not containing in weight according to the pence called easterlings,
but much less, to wit, by five shillings in the pound; by reason whereof,
victuals and merchandises became the dearer through the whole realm.
About the same time also, the old coin of gold was changed into a new; but
the old florin or noble, then so called, was worth much above the taxed rate
of the new, and therefore the merchants engrossed up the old, and conveyed
them out of the realm, to the great loss of the kingdom. Wherefore a remedy
was provided by changing of the stamp.
In the year 1411, King Henry IV. caused a new coin of nobles to be made,
of less value than the old by four pence in the noble, so that fifty nobles
should be a pound troy weight.
In the year 1421 was granted to Henry V. a fifteenth, to be paid at
Candlemas and at Martinmas, of such money as was then current, gold or
silver, not overmuch clipped or washed; to wit, that if the noble were worth
five shillings and eight pence, then the king should take it for a full noble of
six shillings and eight pence, and if it were less of value than five shillings
and eight pence, then the person paying that gold to make it good to the
value of five shillings and eight pence, the king always receiving it for a
whole noble of six shillings and eight pence. And if the noble so paid be
better than five shillings and eight pence, the king to pay again the

surplusage that it was better than five shillings and eight pence. Also this
year was such scarcity of white money, that though a noble were so good of
gold and weight as six shillings and eight pence, men might get no white
money for them.
In the year 1465, King Edward IV. caused a new coin both of gold and
silver to be made, whereby he gained much; for he made of an old noble a
royal, which he commanded to go for ten shillings. Nevertheless, to the
same royal was put eight pence of alloy, and so weighed the more, being
smitten with a new stamp, to wit, a rose. He likewise made half-angels of
five shillings, and farthings of two shillings and six pence, angelets of six
shillings and eight pence, and half-angels of three shillings and four pence.
He made silver money of three pence, a groat, and so of other coins after
that rate, to the great harm of the commons. W. Lord Hastings, the king’s
chamberlain, being master of the king’s mints, undertook to make the
monies under form following, to wit,—of gold, a piece of eight shillings
and four pence sterling, which should be called a noble of gold, of the
which there should be fifty such pieces in the pound weight of the Tower;
another piece of gold of four shillings and two pence sterling, and to be of
them an hundred such pieces in the pound; and a third piece of gold, of two
shillings and one penny sterling, two hundred such pieces in the pound;
every pound weight of the Tower to be worth twenty pounds, sixteen
shillings, and eight pence, the which should be twenty-three carats, three
grains and a half fine, etc., and for silver thirty-seven shillings and six
pence; the piece of four pence to be one hundred and twelve groats and two
pence in the pound weight.
In the year 1504, King Henry VII. appointed a new coin, to wit, a groat, and
half-groat, which bare but half faces; the same time also was coined a groat,
which was in value twelve pence, but of those but a few, after the rate of
forty pence the ounce.
In the year 1526, the 18th of Henry VIII., the angel noble being then the
sixth part of an ounce troy, so that six angels were just an ounce, which was
forty shillings sterling, and the angel was also worth two ounces of silver,
so that six angels were worth twelve ounces of silver, which was forty
shillings. A proclamation was made on the sixth of September, that the
angel should go for seven shillings and four pence, the royal for eleven
shillings, and the crown for four shillings and four-pence. And on the fifth

of November following, again by proclamation, the angel was enhanced to
seven shillings and sixpence, and so every ounce of gold to be forty-five
shillings, and the ounce of silver at three shillings and nine pence in value.
In the year 1544, the 35th of Henry VIII., on the 16th of May, proclamation
was made for the enhancing of gold to forty-eight shillings, and silver to
four shillings the ounce. Also the king caused to be coined base moneys, to
wit, pieces of twelve pence, six pence, four pence, two pence, and a penny,
in weight as the late sterling, in show good silver, but inwardly copper.
These pieces had whole, or broad faces, and continued current after that rate
till the 5th of Edward VI., when they were on the 9th of July called down,
the shilling to nine pence, the groat to three pence, etc., and on the 17th of
August from nine pence to six pence, etc. And on the 30th of October was
published new coins of silver and gold to be made, a piece of silver five
shillings sterling, a piece of two shillings and five pence, of twelve pence,
of six pence, a penny with a double rose, half-penny a single rose, and a
farthing with a portclose. Coins of fine gold: a whole sovereign of thirty
shillings, an angel of ten shillings, an angelet of five shillings. Of crown
gold: a sovereign twenty shillings, half-sovereign ten shillings, five
shillings, two shillings and six pence, and base moneys to pass as before,
which continued till the 2nd of Queen Elizabeth, then called to a lower rate,
taken to the mint, and refined, the silver whereof being coined with a new
stamp of her majesty, the dross was carried to foul highways, to heighten
them. This base money, for the time, caused the old sterling moneys to be
hoarded up, so that I have seen twenty-one shillings current given for one
old angel to gild withal. Also rents of lands and tenements, with prices of
victuals, were raised far beyond the former rates, hardly since to be brought
down. Thus much for base moneys coined and current in England have I
known. But for leather moneys, as many people have fondly talked, I find
no such matter. I read,[77] that King John of France, being taken prisoner by
Edward the Black Prince at the battle of Poictiers, paid a ransom of three
millions of florences, whereby he brought the realm into such poverty, that
many years after they used leather money, with a little stud or nail of silver
in the middle thereof. Thus much for mint and coinage, by occasion of this
Tower (under correction of others more skilful) may suffice. And now to
other accidents there.

In the year 1360, the peace between England and France being confirmed,
King Edward came over into England, and straight to the Tower, to see the
French king then prisoner there, whose ransom he assessed at three millions
of florences, and so delivered him from prison, and brought him with
honour to the sea.
In the year 1381, the rebels of Kent drew out of the Tower (where the king
was then lodged) Simon Sudberie, archbishop of Canterbury, lord
chancellor, Robert Hales, prior of St. John’s, and treasurer of England,
William Appleton, friar, the king’s confessor, and John Legg, a sergeant of
the king’s, and beheaded them on the Tower hill, etc.
In the year 1387, King Richard held his feast of Christmas in the Tower.
And in the year 1399, the same king was sent prisoner to the Tower.
In the year 1414, Sir John Oldcastell brake out of the Tower. And the same
year, a parliament being holden at Leycester, a porter of the Tower was
drawn, hanged, and headed, whose head was sent up, and set over the
Tower gate, for consenting to one Whitlooke, that brake out of the Tower.
In the year 1419, Friar Randulph was sent to the Tower, and was there slain
by the parson of St. Peter’s in the Tower.
In the year 1428, there came to London, a lewd fellow, feigning himself to
be sent from the Emperor to the young King Henry VI., calling himself
Baron of Blakamoore, and that he should be the principal physician in this
kingdom; but his subtlety being known, he was apprehended, condemned,
drawn, hanged, headed, and quartered, his head set on the Tower of
London, and his quarters on four gates of the city.
In the year 1458, in Whitsun week, the Duke of Somerset, with Anthonie
Rivers, and other four, kept jousts before the queen in the Tower of London,
against three esquires of the queen’s, and others.
In the year 1465, King Henry VI. was brought prisoner to the Tower, where
he remained long.
In the year 1470, the Tower was yielded to Sir Richard Lee, mayor of
London, and his brethren the aldermen, who forthwith entered the same,
delivered King Henry of his imprisonment, and lodged him in the king’s
lodging there; but the next year he was again sent thither prisoner, and there
murdered.

In the year 1478, George Duke of Clarence was drowned with malmsey in
the Tower; and within five years after King Edward V., with his brother,
were said to be murdered there.
In the year 1485, John Earl of Oxford was made constable of the Tower, and
had custody of the lions granted him.[78]
In the year 1501, in the month of May, was a royal tourney of lords and
knights in the Tower of London before the king.
In the year 1502, Queen Elizabeth, wife to Henry VII., died of childbirth in
the Tower.
In the year 1512, the chapel in the high White Tower was burnt. In the year
1536 Queen Anne Bullein was beheaded in the Tower. 1541, Lady
Katherine Howard, wife to King Henry VIII., was also beheaded there.
In the year 1546, the 27th of April, being Tuesday in Easter week, William
Foxley, potmaker for the Mint in the Tower of London, fell asleep, and so
continued sleeping, and could not be wakened with pricking, cramping, or
otherwise, burning whatsoever, until the first day of the term, which was
full fourteen days and fifteen nights, or more, for that Easter term beginneth
not before seventeen days after Easter. The cause of his thus sleeping could
not be known, though the same was diligently searched after by the king’s
physicians, and other learned men; yea, the king himself examining the said
William Foxley, who was in all points found at his awakening to be as if he
had slept but one night. And he lived more than forty years after in the said
Tower, to wit, until the year of Christ 1587, and then deceased on
Wednesday in Easter week.
Thus much for these accidents: and now to conclude thereof in summary.
This Tower is a citadel to defend or command the city; a royal palace for
assemblies or treaties; a prison of state for the most dangerous offenders;
the only place of coinage for all England at this time; the armoury for
warlike provision; the treasury of the ornaments and jewels of the crown;
and general conserver of the most records of the king’s courts of justice at
Westminster.

TOWER ON LONDON BRIDGE

The next tower on the river of Thames is on London bridge, at the north end
of the drawbridge. This tower was newly begun to be built in the year 1426.
John Reynwell, mayor of London, laid one of the first corner stones in the
foundation of this work, the other three were laid by the sheriffs and bridge
masters; upon every of these four stones was engraven in fair roman letters
the name of “Ihesus.” And these stones I have seen laid in the bridge
storehouse since they were taken up, when that tower was of late newly
made of timber. This gate and tower was at the first strongly built up of
stone, and so continued until the year 1577, in the month of April, when the
same stone arched gate and tower being decayed, was begun to be taken
down, and then were the heads of the traitors removed thence, and set on
the tower over the gate at the bridge-foot towards Southwark. This said
tower being taken down, a new foundation was drawn, and Sir John
Langley, lord mayor, laid the first stone in the presence of the sheriffs and
bridge masters, on the 28th of August; and in the month of September, in
the year 1579, the same tower was finished—a beautiful and chargeable
piece of work, all above the bridge being of timber.

TOWER ON THE SOUTH OF LONDON BRIDGE

Another tower there is on London bridge, to wit, over the gate at the south
end of the same bridge towards Southwark. This gate, with the tower
thereupon, and two arches of the bridge, fell down, and no man perished by
the fall thereof, in the year 1436;[79] towards the new building whereof
divers charitable citizens gave large sums of money; which gate, being then
again newly built, was, with seventeen houses more on the bridge, in the
year 1471, burnt by the mariners and sailors of Kent, Bastard Fauconbridge
being their captain.

BAYNARD’S CASTLE

In the west of this city (saith Fitzstephen) are two most strong castles, etc.
Also Gervasius Tilbury,[80] in the reign of Henry II., writing of these castles,
hath to this effect:—“Two castels,” saith he, “are built with walles and
rampires, whereof one is, in right of possession, Baynardes; the other the

Barons of Mountfichet.” The first of these castles, banking on the river
Thames, was called Baynard’s Castle, of Baynard a nobleman, that came in
with the Conqueror, and then built it, and deceased in the reign of William
Rufus; after whose decease Geffrey Baynard succeeded, and then William
Baynard, in the year 1111, who by forfeiture for felony, lost his barony of
Little Dunmow, and King Henry gave it wholly to Robert, the son of
Richard, the son of Gilbard of Clare, and to his heirs, together with the
honour of Baynard’s Castle. This Robert married Maude de Sent Licio, lady
of Bradham, and deceased 1134; was buried at St. Needes by Gilbert of
Clare, his father. Walter his son succeeded him; he took to wife Matilde de
Bocham, and after her decease, Matilde, the daughter and co-heir of
Richard de Lucy, on whom he begat Robert and other: he deceased in the
year 1198, and was buried at Dunmow; after whom succeeded Robert
Fitzwater, a valiant knight.
About the year 1213 there arose a great discord between King John and his
barons, because Matilda, surnamed the Fair, daughter to the said Robert
Fitzwater, whom the king unlawfully loved, but could not obtain her, nor
her father would consent thereunto, whereupon, and for other like causes,
ensued war through the whole realm. The barons were received into
London, where they greatly endamaged the king; but in the end the king did
not only therefore banish the said Fitzwater, amongst other, out of the
realm, but also caused his castle called Baynard, and other his houses, to be
spoiled; which thing being done, a messenger being sent unto Matilda the
Fair about the king’s suit, whereunto she would not consent, she was
poisoned;[81] Robert Fitzwater, and other, being then passed into France,
and some into Scotland, etc.[82]
It happened in the year 1214, King John being then in France with a great
army, that a truce was taken betwixt the two kings of England and France
for the term of five years; and a river, or arm of the sea, being then between
either host, there was a knight in the English host, that cried to them of the
other side, willing some one of their knights to come and joust a course or
twain with him; whereupon, without stay, Robert Fitzwater, being on the
French part, made himself ready, ferried over, and got on horseback,
without any man to help him, and showed himself ready to the face of his
challenger, whom at the first course he struck so hard with his great spear,
that horse and man fell to the ground; and when his spear was broken he

went back to the King of France; which when the king had seen, “By God’s
tooth,” quoth he (after his usual oath), “he were a king indeed that had such
a knight.” The friends of Robert, hearing these words, kneeled down, and
said:—“O king, he is your knight; it is Robert Fitzwater.” And thereupon,
the next day he was sent for, and restored to the king’s favour; by which
means peace was concluded, and he received his livings, and had license to
repair his castle of Baynard, and other castles.
The year 1216, the 1st of Henry III., the castle of Hartford being delivered
to Lewis the French prince, and the barons of England, Robert Fitzwater
requiring to have the same, because the keeping thereof did by ancient right
and title pertain to him, was answered by Lewis, “that Englishmen were not
worthy to have such holds in keeping, because they did betray their own
lord,” etc. This Robert deceased in the year 1234, and was buried at
Dunmow, and Walter his son that succeeded him. 1258, his barony of
Baynard, was in the ward of King Henry, in the nonage of Robert Fitzwater.
This Robert took to his second wife, Ælianor, daughter and heir to the Earl
of Ferrars, in the year 1289; and in the year 1303, on the 12th of March,
before John Blondon, mayor of London, he acknowledged his service to the
same city, and sware upon the Evangelists, that he would be true to the
liberties thereof, and maintain the same to his power, and the counsel of the
same to keep, etc.

THE RIGHTS THAT BELONGED TO ROBERT FITZWALTER
CHASTALIAN OF LONDON, LORD OF WODEHAM, WERE
THESE:—

The said Robert, and his heirs, ought to be, and are chief bannerers of
London, in fee of the chastilarie, which he and his ancestors had by Castle
Baynard, in the said city. In time of war the said Robert, and his heirs, ought
to serve the city in manner as followeth: that is, The said Robert ought to
come, he being the twentieth man of arms on horseback, covered with cloth,
or armour, unto the great west door of St. Paul, with his banner displayed
before him of his arms; and when he is come to the said door, mounted and
apparelled, as before is said, the mayor with his aldermen and sheriffs
armed in their arms, shall come out of the said church of St. Paul, unto the
said door, with a banner in his hand, all on foot, which banner shall be

gules, with the image of St. Paul, gold, the face, hands, feet, and sword, of
silver; and as soon as the said Robert shall see the mayor, aldermen, and
sheriffs, come on foot out of the church, armed with such a banner, he shall
alight from his horse, and salute the mayor, and say to him,—“Sir mayor, I
am come to do my service, which I owe to the city.” And the mayor and
aldermen shall answer,—“We give to you, as our bannerer of fee in this city,
this banner of this city to bear, and govern to the honour and profit of the
city to our power.” And the said Robert and his heirs shall receive the
banner in his hands, and shall go on foot out of the gate with the banner in
his hands; and the mayor, aldermen, and sheriffs, shall follow to the door,
and shall bring a horse to the said Robert worth twenty pounds, which horse
shall be saddled with a saddle of the arms of the said Robert, and shall be
covered with sandals of the said arms. Also they shall present to him twenty
pounds sterling money, and deliver it to the chamberlain of the said Robert
for his expenses that day. Then the said Robert shall mount upon the horse
which the mayor presented to him, with the banner in his hand, and as soon
as he is up, he shall say to the mayor, that he cause a marshal to be chosen
for the host, one of the city; which marshal being chosen, the said Robert
shall command the mayor and burgesses of the city to warn the commoners
to assemble together, and they shall all go under the banner of St. Paul, and
the said Robert shall bear it himself unto Aldgate, and there the said Robert
and mayor shall deliver the said banner of St. Paul from thence, to whom
they shall assent or think good. And if they must make any issue forth of the
city, then the said Robert ought to choose two forth of every ward, the most
sage personages, to foresee to the safe keeping of the city after they be gone
forth. And this counsel shall be taken in the priory of the Trinity near unto
Aldgate. And before every town or castle which the host of London besiege,
if the siege continue a whole year, the said Robert shall have for every siege
of the commonalty of London an hundred shillings for his travail, and no
more. These be the rights that the said Robert hath in the time of war.—
Rights belonging to Robert Fitzwalter, and to his heirs in the city of
London, in the time of peace, are these: that is to say, the said Robert hath a
soken or ward in the city, that is, a wall of the canonry of St. Paul, as a man
goeth down the street before the brewhouse of St. Paul unto the Thames,
and so to the side of the mill, which is in the water that cometh down from
the Fleet bridge, and goeth so by London walls, betwixt the Friers preachers
and Ludgate, and so returneth back by the house of the said Friars unto the

said wall of the said canonry of St. Paul, that is, all the parish of St. Andrew,
which is in the gift of his ancestors by the said seigniority. And so the said
Robert hath appendant unto the said soken all these things under-written,—
that he ought to have a soke man, and to place what sokeman he will, so he
be of the sokemanry, or the same ward; and if any of the sokemanry be
impleaded in the Guildhall, of any thing that toucheth not the body of the
mayor that for the time is, or that toucheth the body of no sheriff, it is not
lawful for the sokeman of the sokemanry of the said Robert Fitzwalter to
demand a court of the said Robert, and the mayor, and his citizens of
London, ought to grant him to have a court, and in his court he ought to
bring his judgments, as it is assented and agreed upon in this Guildhall, that
shall be given them. If any, therefore, be taken in his sokenly, he ought to
have his stocks and imprisonment in his soken; and he shall be brought
from thence to the Guildhall before the mayor, and there they shall provide
him his judgment that ought to be given of him; but his judgment shall not
be published till he come into the court of the said Robert, and in his liberty.
And the judgment shall be such, that if he have deserved death by treason,
he to be tied to a post in the Thames at a good wharf where boats are
fastened, two ebbings and two flowings of the water. And if he be
condemned for a common thief, he ought to be led to the Elms, and there
suffer his judgment as other thieves. And so the said Robert and his heirs
hath honour that he holdeth a great franchise within the city, that the mayor
of the city and citizens are bound to do him of right, that is to say, that when
the mayor will hold a great council, he ought to call the said Robert, and his
heirs, to be with him in council of the city, and the said Robert ought to be
sworn to be of council with the city against all people, saving the king and
his heirs. And when the said Robert cometh to the hustings in the Guildhall
of the city, the mayor, or his lieutenant, ought to rise against him, and set
him down near unto him; and so long as he is in the Guildhall, all the
judgment ought to be given by his mouth, according to the record of the
recorders of the said Guildhall; and so many waifes as come so long as he is
there, he ought to give them to the bailiffs of the town, or to whom he will,
by the counsel of the mayor of the city. These be the franchises that
belonged to Robert Fitzwalter in London, in time of peace; which for the
antiquity thereof I have noted out of an old record.
This Robert deceased in the year 1305, leaving issue Walter Fitzrobert, who
had issue Robert Fitzwalter, unto whom, in the year 1320, the citizens of

London acknowledged the right which they ought to him and his heirs for
the Castle Baynard; he deceased 1325; unto whom succeeded Robert
Fitzrobert, Fitzwalter, etc. More of the Lord Fitzwalter may ye read in my
Annals in 51st of Edward III. But how this honour of Baynard’s castle, with
the appurtenances, fell from the possession of the Fitzwalters, I have not
read; only I find, that in the year 1428, the 7th of Henry VI., a great fire was
at Baynard’s castle, and that same Humfrey, Duke of Gloucester, built it of
new. By his death and attainder, in the year 1446, it came to the hands of
Henry VI., and from him to Richard, Duke of York, of whom we read, that
in the year 1457 he lodged there, as in his own house. In the year 1460, the
28th of February, the Earls of March and of Warwick, with a great power of
men, but few of name, entered the city of London, where they were of the
citizens joyously received; and upon the 3rd of March, being Sunday, the
said earl caused to be mustered his people in St. John’s field; whereunto
that host was showed and proclaimed certain articles and points wherein
King Henry, as they said, had offended; and thereupon, it was demanded of
the said people, whether the said Henry was worthy to reign as king any
longer or not: whereunto the people cried Nay. Then it was asked of them,
whether they would have the Earl of March for their king; and they cried,
Yea, Yea. Whereupon, certain captains were appointed to bear report thereof
unto the said Earl of March, then being lodged at his castle of Baynard.
Whereof when the earl was by them advertised, he thanked God, and them
for their election; notwithstanding he showed some countenance of
insufficiency in him to occupy so great a charge, till by exhortation of the
Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishop of Excester, and certain noblemen, he
granted to their petition; and on the next morrow at Paul’s he went on
procession, offered, and had Te Deum sung. Then was he with great royalty
conveyed to Westminster, and there, in the great hall, set in the king’s seat,
with St. Edward’s sceptre in his hand.
Edward IV. being dead, leaving his eldest son Edward, and his second son
Richard, both infants, Richard, Duke of Glocester,[83] being elected by the
nobles and commons in the Guildhall of London, took on him the title of
the realm and kingdom, as imposed upon him in this Baynard’s castle, as ye
may read penned by Sir Thomas More, and set down in my Annals.
Henry VII., about the year 1501, the 16th of his reign, repaired, or rather
new built this house, not embattled, or so strongly fortified castle like, but

far more beautiful and commodious for the entertainment of any prince or
great estate. In the 17th of his reign, he, with his queen were lodged there,
and came from thence to Powles church, where they made their offering,
dined in the bishop’s palace, and so returned. The 18th of his reign he was
lodged there, and the ambassadors from the king of the Romans, where
thither brought to his presence, and from thence the king came to Powles,
and was there sworn to the king of the Romans, as the said king had sworn
to him.
The 20th of the said king, he with his knights of the order, all in their habits
of the Garter, rode from the Tower of London, through the city, unto the
cathedral church of St. Paul’s, and there heard evensong, and from thence
they rode to Baynard’s castle, where the king lodged; and on the next
morrow, in the same habit they rode from thence again to the said church of
St. Paul’s, went on procession, heard the divine service, offered, and
returned. The same year the king of Castile was lodged there.
In the year 1553, the 19th of July, the council, partly moved with the right
of the Lady Mary’s cause, partly considering that the most of the realm
were wholly bent on her side, changing their mind from Lady Jane, lately
proclaimed queen, assembled themselves at this Baynard’s castle, where
they communed with the Earl of Pembroke, and the Earl of Shrewsbury,
and Sir John Mason, clerk of the council, sent for the lord mayor, and then
riding into Cheap to the cross, where Garter King at Arms, trumpet being
sounded, proclaimed the Lady Mary, daughter of King Henry VIII., and
Queen Katherine, queen of England, etc.
This castle now belongeth to the Earl of Pembroke.[84]
Next adjoining to this castle was sometime a tower, the name whereof I
have not read; but that the same was built by Edward II. is manifest by this
that followeth. King Edward III., in the second year of his reign, gave unto
William de Ros, of Hamolake, in Yorkshire, a tower upon the water of
Thames, by the castle of Baynard in the city of London, which tower his
father had built; he gave the said tower and appurtenances to the said
William Hamolake, and his heirs, for a rose yearly, to be paid for all service
due, etc. This tower, as seemeth to me, was since called Legat’s inn, the 7th
of Edward IV.

TOWER OF MOUNTFIQUIT

The next tower or castle, banking also on the river of Thames, was, as is
afore showed, called Mountfiquit’s castle, of a nobleman, Baron of
Mountfiquit, the first builder thereof, who came in with William the
Conqueror, and was since named Le Sir Mountfiquit. This castle he built in
a place not far distant from Baynard’s, towards the west. The same William
Mountfiquit lived in the reign of Henry I., and was witness to a charter then
granted to the city for the sheriffs of London. Richard Mountfiquit lived in
King John’s time; and in the year 1213, was by the same king banished the
realm into France, when peradventure King John caused his castle of
Mountfiquit, amongst other castles of the barons, to be overthrown; the
which after his return, might be by him again re-edified; for the total
destruction thereof was about the year 1276, when Robert Kilwarby,
archbishop of Canterbury, began the foundation of the Fryers Preachers
church there, commonly called the Blacke Fryers, as appeareth by a charter
the 4th of Edward I., wherein is declared that Gregorie de Rocksley, mayor
of London, and the barons of the same city, granted and gave unto the said
Archbishop Robert, two lanes or ways next the street of Baynard’s castle,
and the tower of Mountfiquit, to be applied for the enlargement of the said
church and place.
One other tower there was also situate on the river of Thames near unto the
said Blacke Fryers church, on the west part thereof built at the citizens’
charges, but by license and commandment of Edward I. and of Edward II.,
as appeareth by their grants; which tower was then finished, and so stood
for the space of three hundred years, and was at the last taken down by the
commandment of John Shaw, mayor of London, in the year 1502.
Another tower, or castle, also was there in the west part of the city
pertaining to the king. For I read, that in the year 1087, the 20th of William
I., the city of London, with the church of St. Paul, being burned, Mauritius,
then bishop of London, afterward began the foundation of a new church,
whereunto King William, saith mine author, gave the choice stones of this
castle standing near to the bank of the river of Thames, at the west end of
the city. After this Mauritius, Richard his successor purchased the streets
about Paul’s church,[85] compassing the same with a wall of stone and gates.
King Henry I. gave to this Richard so much of the moat or wall of the

castle, on the Thames side to the south, as should be needful to make the
said wall of the churchyard, and so much more as should suffice to make a
way without the wall on the north side, etc.
This tower or castle thus destroyed, stood, as it may seem, where now
standeth the house called Bridewell. For notwithstanding the destruction of
the said castle or tower, the house remained large, so that the kings of this
realm long after were lodged there, and kept their courts; for until the 9th
year of Henry III. the courts of law and justice were kept in the king’s
house, wheresoever he was lodged, and not elsewhere. And that the kings
have been lodged, and kept their law courts in this place, I could show you
many authors of record, but for plain proof this one may suffice. “Hæc est
finalis concordia, facta in Curia Domini regis apud Sanct. Bridgid. London.
a die Sancti Michaelis in 15 dies, Anno regni regis Johannis 7. coram G.
Fil. Petri. Eustachio de Fauconberg, Johanne de Gestlinge, Osbart filio
Hervey, Walter De Crisping Justiciar. et aliis baronibus Domini regis.”[86]
More, as Matthew Paris hath, about the year 1210, King John, in the 12th of
his reign, summoned a parliament at St. Bride’s in London, where he
exacted of the clergy and religious persons the sum of one hundred
thousand pounds; and besides all this, the white monks were compelled to
cancel their privileges, and to pay forty thousand pounds to the king, etc.
This house of St. Bride’s of latter time being left, and not used by the kings,
fell to ruin, insomuch that the very platform thereof remained for great part
waste, and, as it were, but a laystall of filth and rubbish; only a fair well
remained there. A great part of this house, namely, on the west, as hath been
said, was given to the Bishop of Salisbury; the other part towards the east
remaining waste until King Henry VIII. built a stately and beautiful house
thereupon, giving it to name Bridewell, of the parish and well there. This
house he purposely built for the entertainment of the Emperor Charles V.,
who in the year 1522 came into this city, as I have showed in my Summary,
Annals, and large Chronicles.
On the north-west side of the city, near unto Redcross street, there was a
tower, commonly called Barbican, or Burhkenning; for that the same being
placed on a high ground, and also built of some good height, was in old
time as a watch-tower for the city, from whence a man might behold and
view the whole city towards the south, and also into Kent, Sussex, and
Surrey, and likewise every other way, east, north, or west.

Some other Burhkennings, or watch-towers, there were of old time in and
about the city, all which were repaired, yea, and others new built, by Gilbart
de Clare, Earl of Glocester, in the reign of King Henry III., when the barons
were in arms, and held the city against the king; but the barons being
reconciled to his favour in the year 1267, he caused all their burhkennings,
watch-towers, and bulwarks, made and repaired by the said earl, to be
plucked down, and the ditches to be filled up, so that nought of them might
be seen to remain; and then was this burhkenning, amongst the rest,
overthrown and destroyed; and although the ditch near thereunto, called
Hound’s ditch, was stopped up, yet the street of long time after was called
Hound’s ditch; and of late time more commonly called Barbican. The plot
or seat of this burhkenning, or watch-tower, King Edward III., in the year
1336, and the 10th of his reign, gave unto Robert Ufford, Earl of Suffolk,
by the name of his manor of Base court, in the parish of St. Giles without
Cripplegate, of London, commonly called the Barbican.
Tower Royal was of old time the king’s house. King Stephen was there
lodged; but sithence called the Queen’s Wardrobe. The princess, mother to
King Richard II. in the 4th of his reign was lodged there; being forced to fly
from the Tower of London when the rebels possessed it. But on the 15th of
June (saith Froissart), Wat Tyler being slain, the king went to this lady
princess his mother, then lodged in the Tower Royal, called the Queen’s
Wardrobe, where she had tarried two days and two nights; which tower
(saith the record of Edward III., the 36th year[87]) was in the parish of St.
Michel de Paternoster, etc. In the year 1386, King Richard, with Queen
Anne his wife, kept their Christmas at Eltham, whither came to him Lion,
king of Ermony,[88] under pretence to reform peace betwixt the kings of
England and France; but what his coming profited he only understood; for
besides innumerable gifts that he received of the king and his nobles, the
king lying then in this Tower Royal, at the Queen’s Wardrobe in London,
granted to him a charter of a thousand pounds by year during his life. He
was, as he affirmed, chased out of his kingdom by the Tartarians. More
concerning this tower shall you read when you come to Vintry Ward, in
which it standeth.
Sernes tower in Bucklesberie, was sometime the king’s house. Edward III.,
in the 18th of his reign, appointed his exchange of moneys therein to be

kept; and in the 32d, he gave the same tower to his free chapel of St.
Stephen at Westminster.

OF SCHOOLS AND OTHER HOUSES OF
LEARNING
“In the reign of King Stephen and of Henry II.,” saith Fitzstephen, “there
were in London three principal churches, which had famous schools, either
by privilege and ancient dignity, or by favour of some particular persons, as
of doctors which were accounted notable and renowned for knowledge in
philosophy. And there were other inferior schools also. Upon festival days
the masters made solemn meetings in the churches, where their scholars
disputed logically and demonstratively; some bringing enthimems, other
perfect syllogisms; some disputed for shew, other to trace out the truth;
cunning sophisters were thought brave scholars when they flowed with
words; others used fallacies; rhetoricians spake aptly to persuade, observing
the precepts of art, and omitting nothing that might serve their purpose: the
boys of diverse schools did cap or pot verses, and contended of the
principles of grammar; there were some which on the other side with
epigrams and rymes, nipping and quipping their fellowes, and the faults of
others, though suppressing their names, moved thereby much laughter
among their auditors.” Hitherto Fitzstephen, for schools and scholars, and
for their exercises in the city in his days; sithence the which time, as to me
it seemeth, by the increase of colleges and students in the universities of
Oxford and Cambridge, the frequenting of schools, and exercises of
scholars in the city, as had been accustomed, hath much decreased.
The three principal churches which had these famous schools by privileges,
must needs be the cathedral church of St. Paul for one; seeing that by a
general council, holden in the year of Christ 1176, at Rome, in the
patriarchy of Laterane, it was decreed, that every cathedral church should
have his schoolmaster to teach poor scholars, and others as had been
accustomed, and that no man should take any reward for license to teach.
The second, as most ancient, may seem to have been the monastery of St.
Peter’s at Westminster, whereof Ingulphus, Abbot of Crowland, in the reign
of William the Conqueror, writeth thus:—“I, Ingulphus, an humble servant

of God, born of English parents, in the most beautiful city of London, for to
attain to learning, was first put to Westminster, and after to study of
Oxford,” etc. And writing in praise of Queen Edgitha, wife to Edward the
Confessor: “I have seen her,” saith he, “often when being a boy, I came to
see my father dwelling in the king’s court, and often coming from school,
when I met her, she would oppose me, touching my learning and lesson;
and falling from grammar to logic, wherein she had some knowledge, she
would subtilly conclude an argument with me, and by her handmaiden give
me three or four pieces of money, and send me unto the palace where I
should receive some victuals, and then be dismissed.”
The third school seemeth to have been in the monastery of St. Saviour, at
Bermondsey in Southwark; for other priories, as of St. John by Smithfield,
St. Bartholomew in Smithfield, St. Mary Overie in Southwark, and that of
the Holy Trinity by Aldgate, were all of later foundation, and the friaries,
colleges, and hospitals, in this city, were raised since them in the reigns of
Henry III., Edward I., II., and III., etc. All which houses had their schools,
though not so famous as these first named.
But touching schools more lately advanced in this city, I read, that King
Henry V., having suppressed the priories aliens, whereof some were about
London; namely, one hospital, called Our Lady of Rouncivall, by Charing
Cross; one other hospital in Oldborne; one other without Cripplegate; and
the fourth without Aldersgate; besides other that are now worn out of
memory, and whereof there is no monument remaining more than
Rouncivall, converted to a brotherhood, which continued till the reign of
Henry VIII. or Edward VI. This, I say, and other their schools being broken
up and ceased, King Henry VI., in the 24th of his reign, by patent,
appointed, that there should be in London grammar schools, besides St.
Paul’s, at St. Martin’s le Grand, St. Mary le Bow in Cheap, St. Dunstan’s in
the west, and St. Anthony’s. And in the next year, to wit, 1447, the said king
ordained by parliament that four other grammar schools should be erected,
to wit, in the parishes of St. Andrew in Oldborne, Allhallowes the Great in
Thames street, St. Peter’s upon Cornhill, and in the hospital of St. Thomas
of Acons in West Cheap; since the which time as divers schools, by
suppressing of religious houses, whereof they were members, in the reign of
Henry VIII., have been decayed, so again have some others been newly
erected, and founded for them; as namely Paul’s school, in place of an old

ruined house, was built in most ample manner, and largely endowed, in the
year 1512, by John Collet, Doctor of Divinity, Dean of Paul’s, for one
hundred and fifty-three poor men’s children, for which there was ordained a
master, surmaster, or usher, and a chaplain. Again, in the year 1553, after
the erection of Christ’s hospital, in the late dissolved house of the Gray
Friars, a great number of poor children being taken in, a school was also
ordained there at the citizen’s charges. Also, in the year 1561, the Merchant
Taylors of London founded one notable free grammar school, in the parish
of St. Laurence Poultney by Candleweeke street, Richard Hils, late master
of that company, having given five hundred pounds towards the purchase of
a house, called the Mannor of the Rose, sometime the Duke of
Buckingham’s, wherein the school is kept. As for the meeting of the
schoolmasters on festival days, at festival churches, and the disputing of
their scholars logically, etc., whereof I have before spoken, the same was
long since discontinued; but the arguing of the schoolboys about the
principles of grammar hath been continued even till our time; for I myself,
in my youth, have yearly seen, on the eve of St. Bartholomew the Apostle,
the scholars of divers grammar schools repair unto the churchyard of St.
Bartholomew, the priory in Smithfield, where upon a bank boarded about
under a tree, some one scholar hath stepped up, and there hath opposed and
answered, till he were by some better scholar overcome and put down; and
then the overcomer taking the place, did like as the first; and in the end the
best opposers and answerers had rewards, which I observed not but it made
both good schoolmasters, and also good scholars, diligently against such
times to prepare themselves for the obtaining of this garland. I remember
there repaired to these exercises, amongst others, the masters and scholars
of the free schools of St. Paul’s in London, of St. Peter’s at Westminster, of
St. Thomas Acon’s hospital, and of St. Anthonie’s hospital; whereof the
last-named commonly presented the best scholars, and had the prize in
those days.
This priory of St. Bartholomew being surrendered to Henry VIII., those
disputations of scholars in that place surceased; and was again, only for a
year or twain, in the reign of Edward VI., revived in the cloister of Christ’s
hospital, where the best scholars, then still of St. Anthonie’s school,[89] were
rewarded with bows and arrows of silver, given to them by Sir Martin
Bowes, goldsmith. Nevertheless, however the encouragement failed, the
scholars of Paul’s, meeting with them of St. Anthonie’s, would call them

Anthonie pigs, and they again would call the other pigeons of Paul’s,
because many pigeons were bred in St. Paul’s church, and St. Anthonie was
always figured with a pig following him; and mindful of the former usage,
did for a long season disorderly in the open street provoke one another with,
Salve tu quoque, placet tibi mecum disputare? Placet. And so proceeding
from this to questions in grammar, they usually fell from words to blows
with their satchels full of books, many times in great heaps, that they
troubled the streets and passengers; so that finally they were restrained with
the decay of St. Anthonie’s school. Out of this school have sprung divers
famous persons, whereof although time hath buried the names of many, yet
in mine own remembrance may be numbered these following:—Sir Thomas
More, knight, lord chancellor of England, Dr. Nicholas Heath, sometime
Bishop of Rochester, after of Worcester, and lastly Archbishop of York and
Lord Chancellor of England; Doctor John Whitgift, Bishop of Worcester,
and after Archbishop of Canterbury, etc.
Of later time, in the year of Christ 1582, there was founded a public lecture
in chirurgerie, to be read in the College of Physicians in Knight riders
street, to begin in the year 1584, on the sixth of May, and so to be continued
for ever, twice every week, on Wednesday and Friday, by the honourable
Baron, John Lord Lombley, and the learned Richard Caldwell, doctor in
physic, the reader whereof to be Richard Forster, doctor of physic, during
his life.
Furthermore, about the same time there was also begun a mathematical
lecture, to be read in a fair old chapel, built by Simon Eayre, within the
Leaden hall; whereof a learned citizen born, named Thomas Hood, was the
first reader. But this chapel, and other parts of that hall, being employed for
stowage of goods taken out of a great Spanish caracke, the said lecture
ceased any more to be read, and was then in the year 1588 read in the house
of master Thomas Smith in Grasse street, etc.
Last of all, Sir Thomas Gresham, knight, agent to the queen’s highness, by
his last will and testament made in the year 1579, gave the Royal Exchange,
and all the buildings thereunto appertaining; that is to say, the one moiety to
the mayor and commonalty of London and their successors, upon trust that
they perform as shall be declared; and the other moiety to the mercers in
like confidence. The mayor and commonalty are to find four to read
lectures of divinity, astronomy, music, and geometry, within his dwelling-

house in Bishopsgate street, and to bestow the sum of two hundred pounds;
to wit, fifty pounds the piece, etc. The mercers likewise are to find three
readers, that is, in civil law, physic, and rhetoric, within the same dwelling-
house, the sum of one hundred and fifty pounds; to every reader, fifty
pounds, etc.: which gift hath been since that time confirmed by parliament,
to take effect and begin after the decease of the Lady Anne Gresham, which
happened in the year 1596, and so to continue for ever. Whereupon the
lecturers were accordingly chosen and appointed to have begun their
readings in the month of June, 1597; whose names were, Anthony Wootton,
for divinity; Doctor Mathew Guin, for physic; Doctor Henry Mountlow, for
the civil law; Doctor John Bull, for music; Beerewood, for astronomy;
Henry Brigges, for geometry; and Caleb Willis, for rhetoric. These lectures
are read daily, Sundays excepted, in the term times, by every one upon his
day, in the morning betwixt nine and ten, in Latin; in the afternoon, betwixt
two and three, in English; save that Dr. Bull is dispensed with to read the
music lecture in English only upon two several days, Thursday and
Saturday, in the afternoons, betwixt three and four of the clock.

HOUSES OF STUDENTS IN THE COMMON
LAW
But besides all this, there is in and about this city a whole university, as it
were, of students, practicers or pleaders, and judges of the laws of this
realm, not living of common stipends, as in other universities it is for the
most part done, but of their own private maintenance, as being altogether
fed either by their places or practice, or otherwise by their proper revenue,
or exhibition of parents and friends; for that the younger sort are either
gentlemen or the sons of gentlemen, or of other most wealthy persons. Of
these houses there be at this day fourteen in all; whereof nine do stand
within the liberties of this city, and five in the suburbs thereof; to wit:

Within the liberties

Serjeants’ inn in Fleet Street, Serjeants’ inn in Chancery lane; for judges
and sergeants only.
The Inner temple, the Middle temple, in Fleet street; houses of court.
Clifford’s inn in Fleet street, Thavies inn in Oldborne, Furnival’s inn in
Oldborne, Barnard’s inn in Oldborne, Staple inn in Oldborne; houses of
Chancery.

Without the liberties

Gray’s inn in Oldborne, Lincoln’s inn in Chancery lane by the old Temple;
[90]
houses of court.
Clement’s inn, New inn, Lion’s inn; houses of Chancery, without Temple
bar, in the liberty of Westminster.

There was sometime an inn of sergeants in Oldborne, as you may read of
Scrop’s inn over against St. Andrew’s church.
There was also one other inn of Chancery, called Chester’s inn, for the
nearness of the Bishop of Chester’s house, but more commonly termed
Strand inn, for that it stood in Strand street, and near unto Strand bridge
without Temple bar, in the liberty of the duchy of Lancaster. This inn of
Chancery, with other houses near adjoining, were pulled down in the reign
of Edward VI. by Edward Duke of Sommerset, who in place thereof raised
that large and beautiful house, but yet unfinished, called Sommerset house.
There was moreover, in the reign of King Henry I., a tenth house of
Chancery, mentioned by Justice Fortescue in his book of the laws of
England, but where it stood, or when it was abandoned, I cannot find, and
therefore I will leave it, and return to the rest.
The houses of court be replenished partly with young students, and partly
with graduates and practisers of the law; but the inns of Chancery, being, as
it were, provinces, severally subjected to the inns of court, be chiefly
furnished with officers, attorneys, solicitors, and clerks, that follow the
courts of the King’s Bench or Common Pleas; and yet there want not some
other being young students, that come thither sometimes from one of the
Universities, and sometimes immediately from grammar schools; and these
having spent some time in studying upon the first elements and grounds of
the law, and having performed the exercise of their own houses (called
Boltas Mootes,[91] and putting of cases), they proceed to be admitted, and
become students in some of these four houses or inns of court, where
continuing by the space of seven years or thereabouts, they frequent
readings, meetings, boltings, and other learned exercises, whereby growing
ripe in the knowledge of the laws, and approved withal to be of honest
conversation, they are either, by the general consent of the benchers or
readers, being of the most ancient, grave, and judicial men of every inn of
the court, or by the special privilege of the present reader there, selected and
called to the degree of utter barristers, and so enabled to be common
counsellors, and to practice the law, both in their chambers and at the bars.
Of these, after that they be called to a further step of preferment, called the
Bench, there are twain every year chosen among the benchers of every inn

of court to be readers there, who do make their readings at two times in the
year also; that is, one in Lent, and the other at the beginning of August.
And for the help of young students in every of the inns of Chancery, they do
likewise choose out of every one inn of court a reader, being no bencher,
but an utter barrister there, of ten or twelve years’ continuance, and of good
profit in study. Now, from these of the said degree of counsellors, or utter
barristers, having continued therein the space of fourteen or fifteen years at
the least, the chiefest and best learned are by the benchers elected to
increase the number, as I said, of the bench amongst them; and so in their
time do become first single, and then double, readers to the students of
those houses of court; after which last reading they be named apprentices at
the law, and, in default of a sufficient number of sergeants at law, these are,
at the pleasure of the prince, to be advanced to the places of sergeants; out
of which number of sergeants also the void places of judges are likewise
ordinarily filled; albeit, now and then some be advanced, by the special
favour of the prince, to the estate, dignity, and place, both of sergeant and
judge, as it were in one instant. But from thenceforth they hold not any
room in those inns of court, being translated to one of the said two inns,
called Sergeante’s inns, where none but the sergeants and judges do
converse.

OF ORDERS AND CUSTOMS
Of orders and customs in this city of old time, Fitzstephen saith as
followeth: “Men of all trades, sellers of all sorts of wares, labourers in every
work, every morning are in their distinct and several places: furthermore, in
London, upon the river side, between the wine in ships and the wine to be
sold in taverns, is a common cookery, or cooks’ row; there daily, for the
season of the year, men might have meat, roast, sod, or fried; fish, flesh,
fowls, fit for rich and poor. If any come suddenly to any citizen from afar,
weary, and not willing to tarry till the meat be bought and dressed, while the
servant bringeth water for his master’s hands, and fetcheth bread, he shall
have immediately from the river’s side all viands whatsoever he desireth:
what multitude soever, either of soldiers or strangers, do come to the city,
whatsoever hour, day or night, according to their pleasures may refresh
themselves; and they which delight in delicateness may be satisfied with as
delicate dishes there as may be found elsewhere. And this Cooke’s row is
very necessary to the city; and, according to Plato in Gorgius, next to
physic, is the office of cooks, as part of a city.
“Without one of the gates is a plain field, both in name and deed, where
every Friday, unless it be a solemn bidden holy day, is a notable show of
horses to be sold; earls, barons, knights, and citizens repair thither to see or
to buy; there may you of pleasure see amblers pacing it delicately; there
may you see trotters fit for men of arms, sitting more hardly; there may you
have notable young horses, not yet broken; there may you have strong
steeds, well limbed geldings, whom the buyers do specially regard for pace
and swiftness; the boys which ride these horses, sometimes two, sometimes
three, do run races for wagers, with a desire of praise, or hope of victory. In
another part of that field are to be sold all implements of husbandry, as also
fat swine, milch kine, sheep, and oxen; there stand also mares and horses fit
for ploughs and teams, with their young colts by them. At this city,
merchant strangers of all nations had their keys and wharfs; the Arabians
sent gold; the Sabians spice and frankincense; the Scythian armour,

Babylon oil, Indian purple garments, Egypt precious stones, Norway and
Russia ambergreece and sables, and the Frenchmen wine. According to the
truth of Chronicles, this city is ancienter than Rome, built of the ancient
Troyans and of Brute, before that was built by Romulus and Rhemus; and
therefore useth the ancient customs of Rome. This city, even as Rome, is
divided into wards; it hath yearly sheriffs instead of consuls; it hath the
dignity of senators in aldermen. It hath under officers, common sewers, and
conduits in streets; according to the quality of causes, it hath general courts
and assembles upon appointed days. I do not think that there is any city
wherein are better customs, in frequenting the churches, in serving God, in
keeping holy days, in giving alms, in entertaining strangers, in solemnising
marriages, in furnishing banquets, celebrating funerals, and burying dead
bodies.
“The only plagues of London are immoderate quaffing among the foolish
sort, and often casualties by fire. Most part of the bishops, abbots, and great
lords of the land have houses there, whereunto they resort, and bestow
much when they are called to parliament by the king, or to council by their
metropolitan, or otherwise by their private business.”
Thus far Fitzstephen, of the estate of things in his time, whereunto may be
added the present, by conference whereof the alteration will easily appear.
Men of trades and sellers of wares in this city have oftentimes since
changed their places, as they have found their best advantage. For whereas
mercers and haberdashers used to keep their shops in West Cheape,[92] of
later time they held them on London Bridge, where partly they yet remain.
The goldsmiths of Gutheron’s lane and Old Exchange are now for the most
part removed into the south side of West Cheape, the peperers and grocers
of Soper’s lane are now in Bucklesberrie, and other places dispersed. The
drapers of Lombard street and of Cornehill are seated in Candlewick street
and Watheling street; the skinners from St. Marie Pellipers, or at the Axe,
into Budge row and Walbrooke; the stock fishmongers in Thames street;
wet fishmongers in Knightriders street and Bridge street; the ironmongers,
of Ironmongers’ lane and Old Jurie, into Thames street; the vintners from
the Vinetree into divers places. But the brewers for the more part remain
near to the friendly water of Thames; the butchers in Eastcheape, St.
Nicholas shambles, and the Stockes market; the hosiers of old time in
Hosier lane, near unto Smithfield, are since removed into Cordwayner

street, the upper part thereof by Bow church, and last of all into Birchoveris
lane by Cornehill; the shoe-makers and curriers of Cordwayner street
removed the one to St. Martin’s le Grand, the other to London wall near
unto Mooregate; the founders remain by themselves in Lothberie; cooks,[93]
or pastelars, for the more part in Thames street, the other dispersed into
divers parts; poulters of late removed out of the Poultrie, betwixt the
Stockes and the great Conduit in Cheape, into Grasse street and St.
Nicholas shambles; bowyers, from Bowyers’ row by Ludgate into divers
places, and almost worn out with the fletchers; pater noster makers of old
time, or bead-makers, and text-writers, are gone out of Pater noster row, and
are called stationers of Paule’s churchyard;[94] patten-makers, of St.
Margaret, Pattens’ lane, clean worn out; labourers every work-day are to be
found in Cheape, about Soper’s land end; horse-coursers and sellers of
oxen, sheep, swine, and such like, remain in their old market of Smithfield,
etc.
That merchants of all nations had their keys and wharfs at this city,
whereunto they brought their merchandises before and in the reign of Henry
II., mine author wrote of his own knowledge to be true, though for the
antiquity of the city he took the common opinion. Also that this city was in
his time and afore divided into wards, had yearly sheriffs, aldermen, general
courts, and assemblies, and such like notes by him set down, in
commendation of the citizens; whereof there is no question, he wrote
likewise of his own experience, as being born and brought up amongst
them.
And to confirm his opinion, concerning merchandises then hither
transported, whereof happily may be some argument, Thomas Clifford[95]
(before Fitzstephen’s time), writing of Edward the Confessor, saith to this
effect: “King Edward, intending to make his sepulchre at Westminster; for
that it was near to the famous city of London, and the river of Thames, that
brought in all kind of merchandises from all parts of the world, etc.” And
William of Malmesbury, that lived in the reign of William I. and II., Henry
I., and King Stephen, calleth this a noble city, full of wealthy citizens,
frequented with the trade of merchandises from all parts of the world. Also I
read, in divers records, that of old time no woad was stowed or harboured in
this city, but all was presently sold in the ships, except by license purchased
of the sheriffs, till of more later time; to wit, in the year 1236, Andrew

Bokerell, being mayor, by assent of the principal citizens, the merchants of
Amiens, Nele, and Corby, purchased letters insealed with the common seal
of the city, that they when they come might harbour their woads, and
therefore should give the mayor every year fifty marks sterling; and the
same year they gave one hundred pounds towards the conveying of water
from Tyborn to this city. Also the merchants of Normandie made fine for
license to harbour their woads till it was otherwise provided, in the year
1263, Thomas Fitz Thomas being mayor, etc., which proveth that then as
afore, they were here amongst other nations privileged.
It followeth in Fitzstephen, that the plagues of London in that time were
immoderate quaffing among fools, and often casualties by fire. For the first
—to wit, of quaffing—it continueth as afore, or rather is mightily increased,
though greatly qualified among the poorer sort, not of any holy abstinence,
but of mere necessity, ale and beer being small, and wines in price above
their reach. As for prevention of casualties by fire, the houses in this city
being then built all of timber, and covered with thatch of straw or reed, it
was long since thought good policy in our forefathers wisely to provide,
namely, in the year of Christ 1189, the first of Richard I., Henry
Fitzalwine[96] being then mayor, that all men in this city should build their
houses of stone up to a certain height, and to cover them with slate or baked
tile; since which time, thanks be given to God, there hath not happened the
like often consuming fires in this city as afore.
But now in our time, instead of these enormities, others are come in place
no less meet to be reformed; namely, purprestures, or encroachments on the
highways, lanes, and common grounds, in and about this city; whereof a
learned gentleman and grave citizen[97] hath not many years since written
and exhibited a book to the mayor and commonalty; which book, whether
the same have been by them read and diligently considered upon, I know
not, but sure I am nothing is reformed since concerning this matter.
Then the number of cars, drays, carts, and coaches, more than hath been
accustomed, the streets and lanes being straitened, must needs be
dangerous, as daily experience proveth.
The coachman rides behind the horse tails, lasheth them, and looketh not
behind him; the drayman sitteth and sleepeth on his dray, and letteth his
horse lead him home. I know that, by the good laws and customs of this

city,[98] shodde carts[99] are forbidden to enter the same, except upon
reasonable cause, as service of the prince, or such like, they be tolerated.
Also that the fore horse of every carriage should be lead by hand; but these
good orders are not observed. Of old time coaches were not known in this
island, but chariots or whirlicotes, then so called, and they only used of
princes or great estates, such as had their footmen about them; and for
example to note, I read that Richard II., being threatened by the rebels of
Kent, rode from the Tower of London to the Myles end, and with him his
mother, because she was sick and weak, in a whirlicote, the Earls of
Buckingham, Kent, Warwicke, and Oxford, Sir Thomas Percie, Sir Robert
Knowles, the Mayor of London, Sir Aubery de Vere, that bare the king’s
sword, with other knights and esquires attending on horseback. But in the
next year, the said King Richard took to wife Anne, daughter to the King of
Bohemia, that first brought hither the riding upon side-saddles; and so was
the riding in wherlicoates and chariots forsaken, except at coronations and
such like spectacles; but now of late years the use of coaches, brought out
of Germany, is taken up, and made so common, as there is neither
distinction of time nor difference of persons observed; for the world runs on
wheels with many whose parents were glad to go on foot.
Last of all, mine author in this chapter hath these words:[100] “Most part of
the bishops, abbots, and great lords of the land, as if they were citizens and
freemen of London, had many fair houses to resort unto, and many rich and
wealthy gentlemen spent their money there.” And in another place he hath
these words: “Every Sunday in Lent a fresh company of young men comes
into the fields on horseback, and the best horsemen conducteth the rest; then
march forth the citizens’ sons, and other young men, with disarmed lances
and shields, and practise feats of war; many courtiers likewise and
attendants of noblemen repair to this exercise, and whilst the hope of
victory doth inflame their minds, they do show good proof how serviceable
they would be in martial affairs, etc.” Again he saith: “This city, in the
troublesome time of King Stephen, showed at a muster twenty thousand
armed horsemen and forty thousand footmen, serviceable for the wars, etc.”
All which sayings of the said author, well considered, do plainly prove that
in those days the inhabitants and repairers to this city, of what estate soever,
spiritual or temporal, having houses here, lived together in good amity with
the citizens, every man observing the customs and orders of the city, and

those to be contributary to charges here, rather than in any part of the land
wheresoever. This city, being the heart of the realm, the king’s chamber and
prince’s seat, whereunto they made repair, and showed their forces, both of
horses and of men, which caused in troublesome time, as of King Stephen,
the musters of this city to be so great in number.
And here, to touch somewhat of greater families and households kept in
former times by noblemen, and great estates of this realm, according to
their honours or dignities,[101] I have seen an account made by H. Leicester,
cofferer to Thomas Earl of Lancaster, for one whole year’s expenses in the
Earl’s house, from the day next after Michaelmas, in the seventh year of
Edward II., until Michaelmass in the eight year of the same king, amounting
to the sum of £7957 13s. 4½d. as followeth:[102]
To wit, in the pantry, buttery, and kitchen, £3405, etc.: for one hundred and
eighty-four tons, one pipe of red or claret wine, and one ton of white wine
bought for the house, £104 17s. 6d.
For grocery ware, £180 17s.
For six barrels of sturgeon, £19.
For six thousand eight hundred stock-fishes, so called for dried fishes of all
sorts, as lings, habardines, and other, £41 6s. 7d.
For one thousand seven hundred and fourteen pounds of waxe, with
vermelion and turpentine to make red waxe, £314 7s. 4¼d.
For two thousand three hundred and nineteen pounds of tallow candles for
the household, and one thousand eight hundred and seventy of lights for
Paris candles, called perchers, £31 14s. 3d.
Expenses on the earl’s great horses, and the keeper’s wages, £486 4s. 3¼d.
Linen cloth for the earl and his chaplains, and for the pantry, £43 17s.
For one hundred and twenty-nine dozen of parchment, with ink, £4 8s. 3¼d.
Sum, £5230 17s. 7¼d.
Item, for two cloths of scarlet for the earl against Christmass, one cloth of
russet for the Bishop of Angew, seventy cloths of blue for the knights (as
they were then termed), fifteen cloths of medley for the lords’ clerks,
twenty-eight cloths for the esquires, fifteen cloths for officers, nineteen

cloths for grooms, five cloths for archers, four cloths for minstrels and
carpenters, with the sharing and carriage for the earl’s liveries at
Christmasse, £460 15s.
Item, for seven furs of variable miniver (or powdered ermine), seven hoods
of purple, three hundred and ninety-five furs of budge for the liveries of
barons, knights, and clerks, one hundred and twenty-three furs of lamb for
esquires, bought at Christmas, £147 17s. 8d.
Item, sixty-five cloths, saffron colour, for the barons and knights in summer,
twelve red cloths, mixed, for clerks, twenty-six cloths, ray, for esquires, one
cloth, ray, for officers’ coats in summer, and four cloths, ray, for carpets in
the hall, for £345 13s. 8d.
Item, one hundred pieces of green silk for the knights, fourteen budge furs
for surcoats, thirteen hoods of budge for clerks, and seventy-five furs of
lambs for the lord’s liveries in summer, with canvas and cords to truss them,
£72 19s.
Item, saddles for the lord’s liveries in summer, £51 6s. 8d.
Item, one saddle for the earl of the prince’s arms, 40s.
Sum, £1079 18s. 3d.
Item, for things bought, whereof cannot be read in my note, £241 14s. 1¼d.
For horses lost in service of the earl, £8 6s. 8d.
Fees paid to earls, barons, knights, and esquires, £623 15s. 5d.
In gifts to knights of France, the Queen of England’s nurses, to the Countess
of Warren, esquires, minstrels, messengers, and riders, £92 14s.
Item, one hundred and sixty-eight yards of russet cloth,[103] and twenty-four
coats for poor men, with money given to the poor on Maundy Thursday, £8
16s. 7d.
Item, twenty-four silver dishes, so many saucers and so many cups for the
buttery, one pair of pater nosters, and one silver coffin, bought this year,
£103 5s. 6d.
To divers messengers about the earl’s business, £34 19s. 8d.
In the earl’s chamber, £5.

To divers men for the earl’s old debts, £88 16s. 0¾d.
Sum, £1207 7s. 11¾d.
The expences of the countess at Pickering for the time of this account, as in
the pantry, buttery, kitchen, and other places, concerning these offices, £285
13s. 0½d.
In wine, wax, spices, cloths, furs, and other things for the countess’
wardrobe, £154 7s. 4½d.
Sum, £439 8s. 6¼d.
Sum total of the whole expenses, £7957 13s. 4½d.
Thus much for this Earl of Lancaster.
More I read, that in the 14th of the same Edward II., Hugh Spencer the
elder (condemned by the commonalty) was banished the realm; at which
time it was found by inquisition that the said Spencer had in sundry shires,
fifty-nine manors: he had twenty-eight thousand sheep, one thousand oxen
and steers, one thousand two hundred kine, with their calves, forty mares
with their colts, one hundred and sixty drawing horses, two thousand hogs,
three hundred bullocks, forty tuns of wine, six hundred bacons, eighty
carcases of Martilmasse beef, six hundred muttons in larder, ten tuns of
cider; his armour, plate, jewels, and ready money, better than £10,000,
thirty-six sacks of wool, and a library of books. Thus much the record,
which provision for household showeth a great family there to be kept.
Nearer to our time, I read,[104] in the 36th of Henry VI., that the greater
estates of the realm being called up to London,
The Earl of Salisbury came with five hundred men on horseback, and was
lodged in the Herber.
Richard, Duke of York, with four hundred men, lodged at Baynard’s castle.
The Dukes of Excester and Sommerset, with eight hundred men.
The Earl of Northumberland, the Lord Egremont, and the Lord Clifford,
with fifteen hundred men.
Richard Nevill, Earl of Warwick, with six hundred men, all in red jackets,
embroidered with ragged staves before and behind, and was lodged in

Warwicke lane; in whose house there was oftentimes six oxen eaten at a
breakfast, and every tavern was full of his meat; for he that had any
acquaintance in that house, might have there so much of sodden and roast
meat as he could prick and carry upon a long dagger.
Richard Redman, Bishop of Ely, 1500, the 17th of Henry VII.,[105] besides
his great family, housekeeping, alms dish, and relief to the poor,
wheresoever he was lodged. In his travelling, when at his coming or going
to or from any town, the bells being rung, all the poor would come together,
to whom he gave every one six pence at the least.
And now to note of our own time somewhat. Omitting in this place Thomas
Wolsey, Archbishop of Yorke, and cardinal, I refer the reader to my Annals,
where I have set down the order of his house and household, passing all
other subjects of his time. His servants, daily attending in his house, were
near about four hundred, omitting his servants’ servants, which were many.
Nicholas West, Bishop of Ely, in the year 1532, kept continually in his
house an hundred servants, giving to the one half of them 53s. 4d. the piece
yearly; to the other half each 40s. the piece; to every one for his winter
gown four yards of broad cloth, and for his summer coat three yards and a
half: he daily gave at his gates, besides bread and drink, warm meat to two
hundred poor people.
The housekeeping of Edward, late Earl of Derby, is not to be forgotten, who
had two hundred and twenty men in check roll: his feeding aged persons
twice every day, sixty and odd, besides all comers, thrice a week, appointed
for his dealing days, and every Good Friday two thousand seven hundred,
with meat, drink, and money.
Thomas Audley, lord chancellor, his family of gentlemen before him, in
coats garded with velvet, and chains of gold; his yeomen after him in the
same livery, not garded.
William Powlet, lord great master, Marquis of Winchester, kept the like
number of gentlemen and yeomen in a livery[106] of Reading tawny, and
great relief at his gate.
Thomas Lord Cromwell, Earl of Essex, kept the like or greater number in a
livery of grey marble; the gentlemen garded with velvet, the yeomen with

the same cloth, yet their skirts large enough for their friends to sit upon
them.
Edward, Duke of Sommerset, was not inferior in keeping a number of tall
and comely gentlemen and yeomen, though his house was then in building,
and most of his men were lodged abroad.
The late Earl of Oxford, father to him that now liveth, hath been noted
within these forty years to have ridden into this city, and so to his house by
London stone, with eighty gentlemen in a livery of Reading tawny, and
chains of gold about their necks, before him, and one hundred tall yeomen,
in the like livery, to follow him without chains, but all having his
cognisance of the blue boar embroidered on their left shoulder.

OF CHARITABLE ALMS IN OLD TIMES
GIVEN
These, as all other of their times, gave great relief to the poor. I myself, in
that declining time of charity, have oft seen at the Lord Cromwell’s gate in
London more than two hundred persons served twice every day with bread,
meat, and drink sufficient; for he observed that ancient and charitable
custom, as all prelates, noblemen, or men of honour and worship, his
predecessors, had done before him; whereof somewhat to note for example,
Venerable Bede writeth, that prelates of his time having peradventure but
wooden churches, had notwithstanding on their board at their meals one
alms dish, into the which was carved some good portion of meat out of
every other dish brought to their table; all which was given to the poor,
besides the fragments left, in so much as in a hard time, a poor prelate
wanting victuals, hath caused his alms dish, being silver, to be divided
among the poor, therewith to shift as they could, till God should send them
better store.
Such a prelate was Ethelwald, Bishop of Winchester, in the reign of King
Edgar, about the year of Christ 963: he in a great famine sold away all the
sacred vessels of his church for to relieve the almost starved people, saying
that there was no reason that the senseless temples of God should abound in
riches, and lively temples of the Holy Ghost to lack it.
Walter de Suffilde, Bishop of Norwich, was of the like mind; about the year
1245, in a time of great dearth, he sold all his plate, and distributed it to the
poor every pennyworth.
Robert Winchelsey, Archbishop of Canterbury, about the year 1293, besides
the daily fragments of his house, gave every Friday and Sunday, unto every
beggar that came to his gate, a loaf of bread sufficient for that day, and there
more usually, every such alms day, in time of dearth, to the number of five
thousand, and otherwise four thousand, at the least; more, he used every
great festival day to give one hundred and fifty pence to so many poor

people, to send daily meat, bread, and drink, to such as by age or sickness
were not able to fetch his alms, and to send meat, money, and apparel to
such as he thought needed it.
I read,[107] in 1171, that Henry II., after his return into England, did penance
for the slaughter of Thomas Becket, of whom (a sore dearth increasing) ten
thousand persons, from the first of April, till new corn was inned, were
daily fed and sustained.
More, I find recorded,[108] that in the year 1236, the 20th of Henry III.,
William de Haverhull, the king’s treasurer, was commanded, that upon the
day of the Circumcision of our Lord, six thousand poor people should be
fed at Westminster, for the state of the king, queen, and their children. The
like commandment the said King Henry gave to Hugh Gifford and William
Browne, that upon Friday next after the Epiphany, they should cause to be
fed in the great hall at Windsore, at a good fire, all the poor and needy
children that could be found, and the king’s children being weighed and
measured, their weight and measure to be distributed for their good estates.
These few examples for charity of kings may suffice.
I read, in the reign of Edward III., that Richard de Berie, Bishop of Durham,
did weekly bestow for the relief of the poor eight quarters of wheat made
into bread, besides his alms dish, fragments of his house, and great sums of
money given to the poor when he journeyed. And that these alms dishes
were as well used at the tables of noblemen as of the prelates, one note may
suffice in this place.
I read, in the year 1452, that Richard, Duke of York, then claiming the
crown, the Lord Rivers should have passed the sea about the king’s
business, but staying at Plimmoth till his money was spent, and then
sending for more, the Duke of Sommerset sent him the image of St. George
in silver and gold, to be sold, with the alms dish of the Duke of Glocester,
which was also of great price, for coin had they none.
To end of orders and customs in this city, also of great families kept by
honourable persons thither repairing, and of charitable alms of old times
given, I say, for conclusion, that all noble persons, and other of honour and
worship, in former times lodging in this city, or liberties thereof, did
without grudging bear their parts in charges with the citizens, according to
their estimated estates, as I have before said, and could prove by examples;

but let men call to mind Sir Thomas Cromwel, then lord privy seal and
vicar-general, lying in the city of London; he bare his charges to the great
muster there in a.d. 1539; he sent his men in great number to the Miles end,
and after them their armour in cars, with their coats of white cloth, the arms
of this city; to wit, a red cross, and a sword, on the breast and back; which
armour and coats they ware amongst the citizens, without any difference,
and marched through the city to Westminster.

SPORTS AND PASTIMES OF OLD TIME USED
IN THIS CITY
“Let us now,” saith Fitzstephen, “come to the sports and pastimes, seeing it
is fit that a city should not only be commodious and serious, but also merry
and sportful; whereupon in the seals of the popes, until the time of Pope
Leo, on the one side was St. Peter fishing, with a key over him, reached as
it were by the hand of God out of heaven, and about it this verse:

‘Tu pro me navem liquisti, suscipe clavem.’

And on the other side was a city, and this inscription on it: ‘Aurea Roma.’
Likewise to the praise of Augustus Cæsar and the city, in respect of the
shows and sports, was written:

‘Nocte pluit tota, redeunt spectacula mane,’ etc.

‘All night it raines, and shews at morrow tide returne again,
And Cæsar with almighty Jove hath matcht an equal raign.’

“But London, for the shows upon theatres, and comical pastimes, hath holy
plays, representations of miracles, which holy confessors have wrought, or
representations of torments wherein the constancy of martyrs appeared.
Every year also at Shrove Tuesday, that we may begin with children’s
sports, seeing we all have been children, the school-boys do bring cocks of
the game to their master, and all the forenoon they delight themselves in
cock-fighting: after dinner, all the youths go into the fields to play at the
ball.
“The scholars of every school have their ball, or baston, in their hands; the
ancient and wealthy men of the city come forth on horseback to see the
sport of the young men, and to take part of the pleasure in beholding their
agility. Every Friday in Lent a fresh company of young men comes into the
field on horseback, and the best horseman conducteth the rest. Then march

forth the citizens’ sons, and other young men, with disarmed lances and
shields, and there they practice feats of war. Many courtiers likewise, when
the king lieth near, and attendants of noblemen, do repair to these exercises;
and while the hope of victory doth inflame their minds, do show good proof
how serviceable they would be in martial affairs.
“In Easter holidays they fight battles on the water; a shield is hung upon a
pole, fixed in the midst of the stream, a boat is prepared without oars, to be
carried by violence of the water, and in the fore part thereof standeth a
young man, ready to give charge upon the shield with his lance; if so be he
breaketh his lance against the shield, and doth not fall, he is thought to have
performed a worthy deed; if so be, without breaking his lance, he runneth
strongly against the shield, down he falleth into the water, for the boat is
violently forced with the tide; but on each side of the shield ride two boats,
furnished with young men, which recover him that falleth as soon as they
may. Upon the bridge, wharfs, and houses, by the river’s side, stand great
numbers to see and laugh thereat.
“In the holidays all the summer the youths are exercised in leaping,
dancing, shooting, wrestling, casting the stone, and practising their shields;
the maidens trip in their timbrels, and dance as long as they can well see. In
winter, every holiday before dinner, the boars prepared for brawn are set to
fight, or else bulls and bears are baited.
“When the great fen, or moor, which watereth the walls of the city on the
north side, is frozen, many young men play upon the ice; some, striding as
wide as they may, do slide swiftly; others make themselves seats of ice, as
great as millstones; one sits down, many hand in hand do draw him, and
one slipping on a sudden, all fall together; some tie bones to their feet and
under their heels; and shoving themselves by a little picked staff, do slide as
swiftly as a bird flieth in the air, or an arrow out of a cross-bow. Sometime
two run together with poles, and hitting one the other, either one or both do
fall, not without hurt; some break their arms, some their legs, but youth
desirous of glory in this sort exerciseth itself against the time of war. Many
of the citizens do delight themselves in hawks and hounds; for they have
liberty of hunting in Middlesex, Hartfordshire, all Chiltron, and in Kent to
the water of Cray.” Thus far Fitzstephen of sports.

These, or the like exercises, have been continued till our time, namely, in
stage plays, whereof ye may read in anno 1391, a play by the parish clerks
of London at the Skinner’s well besides Smithfield, which continued three
days together, the king, queen, and nobles of the realm being present. And
of another, in the year 1409, which lasted eight days, and was of matter
from the creation of the world, whereat was present most part of the
nobility and gentry of England. Of late time, in place of those stage plays,
hath been used comedies, tragedies, interludes, and histories, both true and
feigned; for the acting whereof certain public places[109] have been erected.
Also cocks of the game are yet cherished by divers men for their pleasures,
much money being laid on their heads, when they fight in pits, whereof
some be costly made for that purpose. The ball is used by noblemen and
gentlemen in tennis courts, and by people of meaner sort in the open fields
and streets.
The marching forth of citizens’ sons, and other young men on horseback,
with disarmed lances and shields, there to practise feats of war, man against
man, hath long since been left off, but in their stead they have used on
horseback to run at a dead mark, called a quinten; for note whereof I read,
[110]
that in the year of Christ 1253, the 38th of Henry III., the youthful
citizens, for an exercise of their activity, set forth a game to run at the
quinten; and whoever did best should have a peacock, which they had
prepared as a prize. Certain of the king’s servants, because the court lay
then at Westminster came, as it were, in spite of the citizens, to that game,
and giving reproachful names to the Londoners, which for the dignity of the
city, and ancient privilege which they ought to have enjoyed, were called
barons, the said Londoners, not able to bear so to be misused, fell upon the
king’s servants, and beat them shrewdly, so that upon complaint to the king
he fined the citizens to pay a thousand marks. This exercise of running at
the quinten was practised by the youthful citizens as well in summer as in
winter, namely, in the feast of Christmas, I have seen a quinten set upon
Cornehill, by the Leaden hall, where the attendants on the lords of merry
disports have run, and made great pastime; for he that hit not the broad end
of the quinten was of all men laughed to scorn, and he that hit it full, if he
rid not the faster, had a sound blow in his neck with a bag full of sand hung
on the other end. I have also in the summer season seen some upon the river
of Thames rowed in wherries, with staves in their hands, flat at the fore end,

running one against another, and for the most part, one or both overthrown,
and well ducked.
On the holy days in summer the youths of this city have in the field
exercised themselves in leaping, dancing, shooting, wrestling, casting of the
stone or ball, etc.
And for defence and use of the weapon, there is a special profession of men
that teach it. Ye may read in mine Annals how that in the year 1222 the
citizens kept games of defence, and wrestlings, near unto the hospital of St.
Giles in the field, where they challenged, and had the mastery of the men in
the suburbs, and other commoners, etc. Also, in the year 1453, of a tumult
made against the mayor at the wrestling besides Clearke’s well, etc. Which
is sufficient to prove that of old time the exercising of wrestling, and such
like, hath been much more used than of later years. The youths of this city
also have used on holy days after evening prayer, at their masters’ doors, to
exercise their wasters and bucklers; and the maidens, one of them playing
on a timbrel, in sight of their masters and dames, to dance for garlands hung
athwart the streets; which open pastimes in my youth being now
suppressed, worse practices within doors are to be feared. As for the baiting
of bulls and bears, they are to this day much frequented, namely, in Bear
gardens,[111] on the Bank’s side, wherein be prepared scaffolds for
beholders to stand upon. Sliding upon the ice is now but children’s play; but
in hawking and hunting many grave citizens at this present have great
delight, and do rather want leisure than goodwill to follow it.
Of triumphant shows made by the citizens of London, ye may read,[112] in
the year 1236, the 20th of Henry III., Andrew Bockwell then being mayor,
how Helianor, daughter to Reymond, Earl of Provance, riding through the
city towards Westminster, there to be crowned queen of England, the city
was adorned with silks, and in the night with lamps, cressets, and other
lights without number, besides many pageants and strange devices there
presented; the citizens also rode to meet the king and queen, clothed in long
garments embroidered about with gold, and silks of divers colours, their
horses gallantly trapped to the number of three hundred and sixty, every
man bearing a cup of gold or silver in his hand, and the king’s trumpeters
sounding before them. These citizens did minister wine, as bottelers, which
is their service, at their coronation. More, in the year 1293, for victory
obtained by Edward I. against the Scots, every citizen, according to their

several trade, made their several show, but especially the fishmongers,
which in a solemn procession passed through the city, having, amongst
other pageants and shows, four sturgeons gilt, carried on four horses; then
four salmons of silver on four horses; and after them six and forty armed
knights riding on horses, made like luces of the sea; and then one
representing St. Magnus, because it was upon St. Magnus’ day, with a
thousand horsemen, etc.
One other show, in the year 1377, made by the citizens for disport of the
young prince, Richard, son to the Black Prince, in the feast of Christmas, in
this manner:—On the Sunday before Candlemas, in the night, one hundred
and thirty citizens, disguised, and well horsed, in a mummery, with sound
of trumpets, sackbuts, cornets, shalmes, and other minstrels, and
innumerable torch lights of wax, rode from Newgate, through Cheape, over
the bridge, through Southwarke, and so to Kennington beside Lambhith,
where the young prince remained with his mother and the Duke of
Lancaster his uncle, the Earls of Cambridge, Hertford, Warwicke, and
Suffolke, with divers other lords. In the first rank did ride forty-eight in the
likeness and habit of esquires, two and two together, clothed in red coats
and gowns of say or sandal, with comely visors on their faces; after them
came riding forty-eight knights in the same livery of colour and stuff; then
followed one richly arrayed like an emperor; and after him some distance,
one stately attired like a pope, whom followed twenty-four cardinals, and
after them eight or ten with black visors, not amiable, as if they had been
legates from some foreign princes. These maskers, after they had entered
Kennington, alighted from their horses, and entered the hall on foot; which
done, the prince, his mother, and the lords, came out of the chamber into the
hall, whom the said mummers did salute, showing by a pair of dice upon
the table their desire to play with the prince, which they so handled that the
prince did always win when he cast them. Then the mummers set to the
prince three jewels, one after another, which were a bowl of gold, a cup of
gold, and a ring of gold, which the prince won at three casts. Then they set
to the prince’s mother, the duke, the earls, and other lords, to every one a
ring of gold, which they did also win. After which they were feasted, and
the music sounded, the prince and lords danced on the one part with the
mummers, which did also dance; which jollity being ended, they were again
made to drink, and then departed in order as they came.

The like was in Henry IV., in the 2nd of his reign, he then keeping his
Christmas at Eltham, twelve aldermen of London and their sons rode in a
mumming, and had great thanks.
Thus much for sportful shows in triumphs may suffice. Now for sports and
pastimes yearly used.
First, in the feast of Christmas, there was in the king’s house, wheresoever
he was lodged, a lord of misrule, or master of merry disports,[113] and the
like had ye in the house of every nobleman of honour or good worship,
were he spiritual or temporal. Amongst the which the mayor of London, and
either of the sheriffs, had their several lords of misrule, ever contending,
without quarrel or offence, who should make the rarest pastimes to delight
the beholders. These lords beginning their rule on Alhollon eve, continued
the same till the morrow after the Feast of the Purification, commonly
called Candlemas day. In all which space there were fine and subtle
disguisings, masks, and mummeries, with playing at cards for counters,
nails, and points, in every house, more for pastime than for gain.
Against the feast of Christmas every man’s house, as also the parish
churches, were decked with holm, ivy, bays, and whatsoever the season of
the year afforded to be green. The conduits and standards in the streets were
likewise garnished; amongst the which I read, in the year 1444, that by
tempest of thunder and lightning, on the 1st of February, at night, Powle’s
steeple was fired, but with great labour quenched; and towards the morning
of Candlemas day, at the Leaden hall in Cornhill, a standard of tree being
set up in midst of the pavement, fast in the ground, nailed full of holm and
ivy, for disport of Christmas to the people, was torn up, and cast down by
the malignant spirit (as was thought), and the stones of the pavement all
about were cast in the streets, and into divers houses, so that the people
were sore aghast of the great tempests.
In the week before Easter had ye great shows made for the fetching in of a
twisted tree, or with, as they termed it, out of the woods into the king’s
house; and the like into every man’s house of honour or worship.
In the month of May, namely, on May-day in the morning, every man,
except impediment, would walk into the sweet meadows and green woods,
there to rejoice their spirits with the beauty and savour of sweet flowers,
and with the harmony of birds, praising God in their kind; and for example

hereof, Edward Hall hath noted, that King Henry VIII., as in the 3rd of his
reign, and divers other years, so namely, in the 7th of his reign, on May-day
in the morning, with Queen Katherine his wife, accompanied with many
lords and ladies, rode a-maying from Greenwitch to the high ground of
Shooter’s hill, where, as they passed by the way, they espied a company of
tall yeomen, clothed all in green, with green hoods, and bows and arrows, to
the number of two hundred; one being their chieftain, was called Robin
Hoode, who required the king and his company to stay and see his men
shoot; whereunto the king granting, Robin Hoode whistled, and all the two
hundred archers shot off, loosing all at once; and when he whistled again
they likewise shot again; their arrows whistled by craft of the head, so that
the noise was strange and loud, which greatly delighted the king, queen, and
their company. Moreover, this Robin Hoode desired the king and queen,
with their retinue, to enter the green wood, where, in harbours made of
boughs, and decked with flowers, they were set and served plentifully with
venison and wine by Robin Hoode and his men, to their great contentment,
and had other pageants and pastimes, as ye may read in my said author.
I find also, that in the month of May, the citizens of London of all estates,
lightly in every parish, or sometimes two or three parishes joining together,
had their several mayings, and did fetch in May-poles, with divers warlike
shows, with good archers, morris dancers, and other devices, for pastime all
the day long; and toward the evening they had stage plays, and bonfires in
the streets. Of these mayings we read, in the reign of Henry VI., that the
aldermen and sheriffs of London, being on May-day at the Bishop of
London’s wood, in the parish of Stebunheath,[114] and having there a
worshipful dinner for themselves and other commoners, Lydgate the poet,
that was a monk of Bury, sent to them, by a pursuivant, a joyful
commendation of that season, containing sixteen staves of metre royal,
beginning thus:—

“Mightie Flora! goddess of fresh flowers,—
Which clothed hath the soyle in lustie greene,
Made buds spring, with her sweete showers,
By the influence of the sunne shine.
To doe pleasance of intent full cleane,
Unto the States which now sit here,
Hath Vere downe sent her owne daughter deare.

Making the vertue, that dared in the roote,
Called of clarkes the vertue vegitable,
For to transcend, most holsome and most soote,
Into the crop, this season so agreeable,
The bawmy liquor is so commendable,
That it rejoyceth with his fresh moysture,
Man, beast, and fowle, and every creature,” etc.
These great Mayings and May-games, made by the governors and masters
of this city, with the triumphant setting up of the great shaft (a principal
May-pole in Cornehill, before the parish church of St. Andrew), therefore
called Undershaft, by means of an insurrection of youths against aliens on
May-day, 1517, the 9th of Henry VIII., have not been so freely used as
afore, and therefore I leave them, and will somewhat touch of watches, as
also of shows in the night.[115]

OF WATCHES IN THIS CITY, AND OTHER
MATTERS COMMANDED, AND THE CAUSE
WHY
William Conqueror commanded that in every town and village, a bell
should be nightly rung at eight o’clock, and that all people should then put
out their fire and candle, and take their rest; which order was observed
through this realm during his reign, and the reign of William Rufus. But
Henry I., restoring to his subjects the use of fire and lights, as afore; it
followeth, by reason of wars within the realm, that many men also gave
themselves to robbery and murders in the night; for example whereof in this
city Roger Hoveden writeth thus:—“In the year 1175, council was kept at
Nottingham; in time of which council a brother of the Earl Ferrers being in
the night privily slain at London, and thrown out of his inn into the dirty
street, when the king understood thereof, he swore that he would be
avenged on the citizens. For it was then (saith mine author) a common
practice in the city, that a hundred or more in a company, young and old,
would make nightly invasions upon houses of the wealthy, to the intent to
rob them; and if they found any man stirring in the city within the night that
were not of their crew, they would presently murder him, insomuch that
when night was come no man durst adventure to walk in the streets. When
this had continued long, it fortuned that as a crew of young and wealthy
citizens, assembling together in the night, assaulted a stone house of a
certain rich man, and breaking through the wall, the good man of that
house, having prepared himself with others in a corner, when he perceived
one of the thieves named Andrew Bucquint to lead the way, with a burning
brand in the one hand, and a pot of coals in the other, which he essayed to
kindle with the brand, he flew upon him, and smote off his right hand, and
then with a loud voice cried ‘Thieves!’ at the hearing whereof the thieves
took their flight, all saving he that had lost his hand, whom the good man in
the next morning delivered to Richard de Lucie, the king’s justice. This
thief, upon warrant of his life, appeached his confederates, of whom many

were taken, and many were fled. Among the rest that were apprehended, a
certain citizen of great countenance, credit, and wealth, named John Senex,
[116]
who forasmuch as he could not acquit himself by the water dome, as
that law was then, he offered to the king five hundred pounds of silver for
his life; but forasmuch as he was condemned by judgment of the water, the
king would not take the offer, but commanded him to be hanged on the
gallows, which was done, and then the city became more quiet for a long
time after.” But for a full remedy of enormities in the night I read, that in
the year 1253, Henry III. commanded watches in the cities and borough
towns to be kept, for the better observing of peace and quietness amongst
his people.
And further, by the advice of them of Savoy, he ordained, that if any man
chanced to be robbed, or by any means damnified by any thief or robber, he
to whom the charge of keeping that country, city, or borough, chiefly
appertained, where the robbery was done, should competently restore the
loss. And this was after the use of Savoy, but yet thought more hard to be
observed here than in those parts; and, therefore, leaving those laborious
watches, I will speak of our pleasures and pastimes in watching by night.
In the months of June and July, on the vigils of festival days, and on the
same festival days in the evenings after the sun setting, there were usually
made bonfires in the streets, every man bestowing wood or labour towards
them; the wealthier sort also, before their doors near to the said bonfires,
would set out tables on the vigils, furnished with sweet bread and good
drink, and on the festival days with meats and drinks plentifully, whereunto
they would invite their neighbours and passengers also to sit and be merry
with them in great familiarity, praising God for his benefits bestowed on
them. These were called bonfires as well of good amity amongst neighbours
that being before at controversy, were there, by the labour of others,
reconciled, and made of bitter enemies loving friends; and also for the
virtue that a great fire hath to purge the infection of the air. On the vigil of
St. John the Baptist, and on St. Peter and Paul the apostles, every man’s
door being shadowed with green birch, long fennel, St. John’s wort, orpin,
white lilies, and such like, garnished upon with garlands of beautiful
flowers, had also lamps of glass, with oil burning in them all the night;
some hung out branches of iron curiously wrought, containing hundreds of
lamps alight at once, which made a goodly show, namely in New Fish

street, Thames street, etc. Then had ye besides the standing watches all in
bright harness, in every ward and street of this city and suburbs, a marching
watch, that passed through the principal streets thereof, to wit, from the
little conduit by Paule’s gate to West Cheape, by the stocks through
Cornhill, by Leaden hall to Aldgate, then back down Fenchurch street, by
Grasse church, about Grasse church conduit, and up Grasse church street
into Cornhill, and through it into West Cheape again. The whole way for
this marching watch extendeth to three thousand two hundred tailor’s yards
of assize; for the furniture whereof with lights, there were appointed seven
hundred cressets, five hundred of them being found by the companies, the
other two hundred by the chamber of London. Besides the which lights
every constable in London, in number more than two hundred and forty,[117]
had his cresset: the charge of every cresset was in light two shillings and
four pence, and every cresset had two men, one to bear or hold it, another to
bear a bag with light, and to serve it, so that the poor men pertaining to the
cressets, taking wages, besides that every one had a straw hat, with a badge
painted, and his breakfast in the mornings amounted in number to almost
two thousand. The marching watch contained in number about two
thousand men, part of them being old soldiers of skill, to be captains,
lieutenants, serjeants, corporals, etc., wiflers, drummers, and fifes, standard
and ensign bearers, sword players, trumpeters on horseback, demilances on
great horses, gunners with hand guns, or half hakes, archers in coats of
white fustian, signed on the breast and back with the arms of the city, their
bows bent in their hands, with sheaves of arrows by their sides, pike-men in
bright corslets, burganets, etc., halberds, the like bill-men in almaine rivets,
and apernes of mail in great number; there were also divers pageants,
morris dancers, constables, the one-half, which was one hundred and
twenty, on St. John’s eve, the other half on St. Peter’s eve, in bright harness,
some overgilt, and every one a jornet[118] of scarlet thereupon, and a chain
of gold, his henchman following him, his minstrels before him, and his
cresset light passing by him, the waits of the city, the mayor’s officers for
his guard before him, all in a livery of worsted, or say jackets party-
coloured, the mayor himself well mounted on horseback, the swordbearer
before him in fair armour well mounted also, the mayor’s footmen, and the
like torch bearers about him, henchmen twain upon great stirring horses,
following him. The sheriffs’ watches came one after the other in like order,
but not so large in number as the mayor’s; for where the mayor had besides

his giant three pageants, each of the sheriffs had besides their giants but two
pageants, each their morris dance, and one henchman, their officers in
jackets of worsted or say, party-coloured, differing from the mayor’s, and
each from other, but having harnessed men a great many, etc.
This midsummer watch was thus accustomed yearly, time out of mind, until
the year 1539, the 31st of Henry VIII., in which year, on the 8th of May, a
great muster was made by the citizens at the Mile’s end, all in bright
harness, with coats of white silk, or cloth and chains of gold, in three great
battles, to the number of fifteen thousand, which passed through London to
Westminster, and so through the Sanctuary, and round about the park of St.
James, and returned home through Oldborne. King Henry, then considering
the great charges of the citizens for the furniture of this unusual muster,
forbad the marching watch provided for at Midsummer for that year, which
being once laid down, was not raised again till the year 1548, the 2nd of
Edward VI., Sir John Gresham then being mayor, who caused the marching
watch, both on the eve of St. John the Baptist and of St. Peter the Apostle,
to be revived and set forth in as comely order as it hath been accustomed,
which watch was also beautified by the number of more than three hundred
demilances and light horsemen, prepared by the citizens to be sent into
Scotland for the rescue of the town of Hadington, and others kept by the
Englishmen. Since this mayor’s time, the like marching watch in this city
hath not been used, though some attempts have been made thereunto; as in
the year 1585, a book was drawn by a grave citizen,[119] and by him
dedicated to Sir Thomas Pullison, then lord mayor, and his brethren the
aldermen, containing the manner and order of a marching watch in the city
upon the evens accustomed; in commendation whereof, namely, in times of
peace to be used, he hath words to this effect: “The artificers of sundry sorts
were thereby well set a-work, none but rich men charged, poor men helped,
old soldiers, trumpeters, drummers, fifes, and ensign-bearers, with such like
men, meet for princes’ service, kept in ure, wherein the safety and defence
of every common weal consisteth. Armour and weapon being yearly
occupied in this wise, the citizens had of their own readily prepared for any
need; whereas by intermission hereof, armourers are out of work, soldiers
out of pay, weapons overgrown with foulness, few or none good being
provided,” etc.

In the month of August, about the feast of St. Bartholomew the Apostle,
before the Lord Mayor, aldermen, and sheriffs of London, placed in a large
tent near unto Clarkenwell, of old time, were divers days spent in the
pastime of wrestling, where the officers of the city, namely, the sheriffs,
sergeants, and yeomen, the porters of the king’s beam or weigh-house, now
no such men, and other of the city, were challengers of all men in the
suburbs, to wrestle for games appointed, and on other days, before the said
mayor, aldermen, and sheriffs, in Fensburie field, to shoot the standard,
broad arrow, and flight, for games; but now of late years the wrestling is
only practised on Bartholomew’s day in the afternoon, and the shooting
some three or four days after, in one afternoon, and no more. What should I
speak of the ancient daily exercises in the long bow by citizens of this city,
now almost clean left off and forsaken?—I overpass it; for by the mean of
closing in the common grounds, our archers, for want of room to shoot
abroad, creep into bowling alleys, and ordinary dicing houses, nearer home,
where they have room enough to hazard their money at unlawful games;
and there I leave them to take their pleasures.

HONOUR OF CITIZENS, AND WORTHINESS
OF MEN IN THE SAME
“This city,” saith Fitzstephen, “is glorious in manhood: furnished with
munitions, populous with inhabitants; insomuch, that in the troublesome
time of King Stephen, it hath showed at a muster twenty thousand armed
horsemen, and threescore thousand footmen, serviceable for the wars.
Moreover (saith he), the citizens of London, wheresoever they become, are
notable before all other citizens in civility of manners, attire, table, and talk.
The matrons of this city are the very modest Sabine ladies of Italy. The
Londoners, sometime called Trinobantes, repelled Cæsar, which always
made his passage by shedding blood; whereupon Lucan sung:

‘Territa quæsitis ostendit terga Britannis.’

“The city of London hath bred some which have subdued many kingdoms,
and also the Roman empire. It hath also brought forth many others, whom
virtue and valour hath highly advanced; according to Apollo, in his Oracle
to Brute, ‘Sub occasu solis,’ etc. In the time of Christianity, it brought forth
that noble emperor, Constantine, which gave the city of Rome and all the
imperial ensigns to God, St. Peter, and Pope Silvester; choosing rather to be
called a defender of the church than an emperor; and, lest peace might be
violated, and their eyes troubled by his presence, he retired from Rome, and
built the city of Constantinople. London also in late time hath brought forth
famous kings: Maude the empress, King Henry, son to Henry II., and
Thomas the Archbishop,” etc.
This Thomas, surnamed Becket, born in London, brought up in the priory of
Marton, student at Paris, became the sheriff’s clerk of London for a time,
then parson of St. Mary hill, had a prebend at London, another at Lincoln,
studied the law at Bononie, etc., was made Chancellor of England, and
Archbishop of Canterbury, etc. Unto this might be added innumerable
persons of honour, wisdom, and virtue, born in London; but of actions done
by worthy citizens I will only note a few, and so to other matters.
The citizens of London, time out of mind, founded an hospital of St. James
in the fields for leprous women of their city.
In the year 1197, Walter Brune, a citizen of London, and Rosia, his wife,
founded the hospital of our Lady, called Domus Dei, or St. Marie Spittle,
without Bishopsgate of London; a house of such relief to the needy, that
there was found standing at the surrender thereof nine score beds, well
furnished for receipt of poor people.
In the year 1216, the Londoners sending out a navy, took ninety-five ships
of pirates and sea-robbers; besides innumerable others that they drowned,
which had robbed on the river of Thames.
In the year 1247, Simon Fitzmary, one of the sheriffs of London, founded
the hospital of St. Mary called Bethlem, and without Bishopsgate.
In the year 1283, Henry Wallice, then mayor, built the Tun upon Cornhill, to
be a prison for night-walkers, and a market-house called the Stocks, both

for fish and flesh, standing in the midst of the city. He also built divers
houses on the west and north side of Paule’s churchyard; the profits of all
which buildings are to the maintenance of London Bridge.
In the year 1332, William Elsing, mercer of London, founded Elsing Spittle
within Cripplegate, for sustentation of an hundred poor blind men, and
became himself the first prior of that hospital.
Sir John Poultney, draper, four times mayor, in 1337 built a fair chapel in
Paule’s church, wherein he was buried. He founded a college in the parish
church of St. Laurence, called Poultney: he built the parish church called
Little Alhallowes, in Thames street; the Carmelite friars church in
Coventry: he gave relief to prisoners in Newgate and in the Fleet, and ten
shillings a-year to St. Giles’ hospital by Oldborne for ever, and other
legacies long to rehearse.
John Stodie, vintner, mayor 1358, gave to the vintners all the quadrant
wherein the Vintners’ hall now standeth, with all the tenements round about,
from Stadies lane, wherein is founded thirteen alms houses for so many
poor people, etc.
Henry Picard, vintner, mayor 1357, in the year 1363, did in one day
sumptuously feast Edward III., king of England, John, king of France,
David, king of Scots, the king of Cyprus, then all in England, Edward,
prince of Wales, with many other noblemen, and after kept his hall for all
comers that were willing to play at dice and hazard. The Lady Margaret, his
wife, kept her chamber to the same effect, etc.
John Lofken, fishmonger, four times mayor, 1367, built an hospital called
Magdalen’s, in Kingstone upon Thames; gave thereunto nine tenements, ten
shops, one mill, one hundred and twenty-five acres of land, ten acres of
meadow, one hundred and twenty acres of pasture, etc.; more, in London,
he built the fair parish church of St. Michael in Crooked lane, and was there
buried.
John Barnes, mayor 1371, gave a chest with three locks, and one thousand
marks therein, to be lent to young men upon sufficient pawn, and for the use
thereof, to say De profundis, or Pater noster, and no more: he also was a
great builder of St. Thomas Apostle’s parish church, as appeareth by his
arms there, both in stone and glass.

In the year 1378, John Filpot, sometime mayor, hired with his own money
one thousand soldiers, and defended the realm from incursions of the
enemy, so that in small time his hired men took John Mercer, a sea-rover,
with all his ships, which he before had taken from Scarborrow, and fifteen
Spanish ships, laden with great riches.
In the year 1380, Thomas of Woodstocke, Thomas Percie, Hugh Calverley,
Robert Knoles, and others, being sent with a great power to aid the duke of
Brytaine, the said John Filpot hired ships for them of his own charges, and
released the armour, which the soldiers had pawned for their battles, more
than a thousand in number. “This most noble citizen,” saith Thomas
Walsingham, “that had travailed for the commodity of the whole realm,
more than all other of his time, had often relieved the king by lending him
great sums of money and otherwise, deceased in a.d. 1384, after that he had
assured lands to the city for the relief of thirteen poor people for ever.”
In the year 1381, William Walworth, then mayor, a most provident, valiant,
and learned citizen, did by his arrest of Wat Tyler (a presumptuous rebel,
upon whom no man durst lay hands), deliver the king and kingdom from
the danger of most wicked traitors, and was for his service knighted in the
field.
Nicholas Brembar, John Filpot, Robert Laund, Nicholas Twiford, and Adam
Francis, aldermen, were then for their service likewise knighted; and Sir
Robert Knoles, for assisting of the mayor, was made free of this city.
This Sir Robert Knoles, thus worthily infranchised a citizen, founded a
college with an hospital at Pontefract: he also built the great stone bridge at
Rochester, over the river of Medway, etc.
John Churchman, grocer, one of the sheriffs, 1386, for the quiet of
merchants, built a certain house upon Wool wharf, in Tower ward, to serve
for tronage or weighing of wools, and for the customer, comptroller, clerks,
and other officers to sit, etc.
Adam Bamme, goldsmith, mayor 1391, in a great dearth, procured corn
from parts beyond the seas, to be brought hither in such abundance as
sufficed to serve the city, and the countries near adjoining; to the
furtherance of which good work he took out of the orphans’ chest in the

Guildhall two thousand marks to buy the said corn, and each alderman laid
out twenty pounds to the like purpose.
Thomas Knoles, grocer, mayor 1400, with his brethren the aldermen, began
to new build the Guildhall in London, and instead of an old little cottage in
Aldermanberie street, made a fair and goodly house, more near unto St.
Laurence church in the Jurie: he re-edified St. Anthony’s church, and gave
to the grocers his house near unto the same, for relief of the poor for ever.
More, he caused sweet water to be conveyed to the gates of Newgate and
Ludgate, for relief of the prisoners there.
John Hinde, draper, mayor 1405, newly built his parish church of St.
Swithen by London stone: his monument is defaced, save only his arms in
the glass windows.
Thomas Falconar, mercer, mayor 1414, lent to King Henry VI., towards
maintenance of his wars in France, ten thousand marks upon jewels. More,
he made the postern called Mooregate, caused the ditches of the city to be
cleansed, and did many other things for good of the same city.
William Sevenoke, grocer, mayor 1419, founded in the town of Sevenoke,
in Kent, a free school for poor men’s children, and thirteen alms houses: his
testament saith, twenty poor men and women.
Richard Whittington, mercer, three times mayor, in the year 1421 began the
library of the grey friars in London, to the charge of four hundred pounds:
his executors with his goods founded and built Whittington college, with
alms houses for thirteen poor men, and divinity lectures to be read there for
ever. They repaired St. Bartholomew’s hospital in Smithfield; they bare
some charges to the glazing and paving of the Guildhall; they bare half the
charges of building the library there, and they built the west gate of London,
of old time called Newgate, etc.
John Carpenter, town-clerk of London, in the reign of Henry V., caused with
great expense to be curiously painted upon board, about the north cloister of
Paule’s, a monument of Death leading all estates, with the speeches of
Death, and answer of every state. This cloister was pulled down 1549. He
also gave tenements to the city, for the finding and bringing up of four poor
men’s children with meat, drink, apparel, learning at the schools in the

universities, etc., until they be preferred, and then other in their places for
ever.
Robert Chichley, grocer, mayor 1422, appointed by his testament, that on
his minde day, a competent dinner should be ordained for two thousand four
hundred poor men, householders of this city, and every man to have two
pence in money. More, he gave one large plot of ground, thereupon to build
the new parish church of St. Stephen, near unto Walbrooke, etc.
John Rainwell, fishmonger, mayor 1427, gave tenements to discharge
certain wards of London of fifteenths and other payments.
John Wells, grocer, mayor, 1433, a great builder of the chapel or college of
the Guildhall, and was there buried. He caused fresh water to be conveyed
from Tyborne to the standard in West Cheape for service of the city.
William Eastfield, mercer, 1438, appointed his executors of his goods to
convey sweet water from Tyborne, and to build a fair conduit by
Aldermanberie church, which they performed, as also made a standard in
Fleet street by Shew lane end; they also conveyed water to Cripples gate,
etc.
Stephen Browne, grocer, mayor 1439, sent into Prussia, causing corn to be
brought from thence;[120] whereby he brought down the price of wheat from
three shillings the bushel to less than half that money.
Philip Malpas, one of the sheriffs 1440, gave by his testament one hundred
and twenty-five pounds, to relieve poor prisoners, and every year for five
years, four hundred shirts and smocks, forty pairs of sheets, and one
hundred and fifty gowns of frieze, to the poor; to five hundred poor people
in London six shillings and eight pence; to poor maids’ marriages one
hundred marks; to highways one hundred marks; twenty marks the year to a
graduate to preach; twenty pounds to preachers at the Spittle the three
Easter holidays, etc.
Robert Large, mercer, mayor 1440, gave to his parish-church of St. Olave in
Surry two hundred pounds; to St. Margaret’s in Lothberie twenty-five
pounds; to the poor twenty pounds; to London bridge one hundred marks;
towards the vaulting over the water-course of Walbrooke two hundred
marks; to poor maids’ marriages one hundred marks; to poor householders
one hundred pounds, etc.

Richard Rich, mercer, one of the sheriffs 1442, founded alms houses at
Hodsdon in Hertfordshire.
Simon Eyre, draper, mayor 1346, built the Leaden hall for a common garner
of corn for the use of this city, and left five thousand marks to charitable
uses.
Godfrey Bollein, mayor of London, 1458, by his testament, gave liberally to
the prisons, hospitals, and lazar houses, besides a thousand pounds to poor
householders in London, and two hundred pounds to poor householders in
Norfolke.[121]
Richard Rawson, one of the sheriffs 1477, gave by testament large legacies
to the prisoners, hospitals, lazar houses, to other poor, to highways, to the
water-conduits, besides to poor maids’ marriages three hundred and forty
pounds, and his executors to build a large house in the churchyard of St.
Marie Spittle, wherein the mayor and his brethren do use to sit and hear the
sermons in the Easter holidays.
Thomas Ilam, one of the sheriffs 1480, newly built the great conduit in
Cheape, of his own charges.
Edward Shaw, goldsmith, mayor 1483, caused the Cripplegate of London to
be newly built of his goods, etc.
Thomas Hill, grocer, mayor 1485, caused of his goods the conduit of Grasse
street to be built.
Hugh Clopton, mercer, during his life a bachelor, mayor 1492, built the
great stone-arched bridge at Stratford upon Avon in Warwickshire, and did
many other things of great charity, as in my Summary.
Robert Fabian, alderman, and one of the sheriffs, 1494, gathered out of
divers good authors, as well Latin as French, a large Chronicle of England
and of France, which he published in English, to his great charges, for the
honour of this city, and common utility of the whole realm.
Sir John Percivall, merchant-taylor, mayor 1498, founded a grammar-school
at Macklefield in Cheshire, where he was born; he endowed the same
school with sufficient lands for the finding of a priest master there, to teach
freely all children thither sent, without exception.

The Lady Thomasine his wife founded the like free school, together with
fair lodgings for the schoolmasters, scholars, and other, and added twenty
pounds of yearly revenue for supporting the charges, at St. Mary Wike in
Devonshire, where she was born.
Stephen Gennings, merchant-taylor, mayor 1509, founded a fair grammar-
school at Ulfrimhampton[122] in Staffordshire, left good lands, and also built
a great part of his parish church, called St. Andrew’s Undershaft, in
London.
Henry Keble, grocer, mayor 1511, in his life a great benefactor to the new
building of old Mary church, and by his testament gave a thousand pounds
towards the finishing thereof; he gave to highways two hundred pounds; to
poor maids’ marriages one hundred marks; to poor husbandmen in Oxford
and Warwick shires one hundred and forty ploughshares, and one hundred
and forty coulters of iron; and in London, to seven almsmen six pence the
week for ever.
John Collet, a citizen of London by birth and dignity, dean of Paule’s,
doctor of divinity, erected and built one free school in Paule’s churchyard,
1512, for three hundred and fifty-three poor men’s children to be taught free
in the same school, appointing a master, a surmaster, and a chaplain, with
sufficient stipends to endure for ever, and committed the oversight thereof
to the mercers in London, because himself was son to Henry Collet, mercer,
mayor of London, and endowed the mercers with lands to the yearly value
of one hundred and twenty pounds or better.
John Tate, brewer, then a mercer, mayor 1514, caused his brewhouse, called
the Swan, near adjoining to the hospital of St. Anthonie in London, to be
taken down for the enlarging of the said church, then newly built, a great
part of his charge. This was a goodly foundation, with alms houses, free
school, etc.
George Monox, draper, mayor 1515, re-edified the decayed parish church of
Waltonstow, or Walthamstow, in Essex; he founded there a free school, and
alms houses for thirteen alms people, made a causeway of timber over the
marshes from Walthamstow to Lock bridge, etc.
Sir John Milborne, draper, mayor 1522, built alms houses, fourteen in
number, by the Crossed Friers church in London, there to be placed

fourteen poor people; and left to the Drapers certain messuages, tenements,
and garden plots, in the parish of St. Olave in Hart street, for the
performance of stipends to the said alms people, and other uses. Look more
in Ealdgate ward.
Robert Thorne, merchant-taylor, deceased a bachelor in the year 1532, gave
by his testament to charitable actions more than four thousand four hundred
and forty pounds, and legacies to his poor kindred more five thousand one
hundred and forty-two pounds, besides his debts forgiven, etc.
Sir John Allen, mercer, mayor of London, and of council to King Henry
VIII., deceased 1544, buried in St. Thomas of Acres in a fair chapel by him
built. He gave to the city of London a rich collar of gold to be worn by the
mayor, which was first worn by Sir W. Laxton. He gave five hundred marks
to be a stock for sea-coal; his lands purchased of the king, the rent thereof
to be distributed to the poor in the wards of London for ever. He gave
besides to the prisons, hospitals, lazar houses, and all other poor in the city,
or two miles without, very liberally, and long to be recited.
Sir William Laxton, grocer, mayor 1545, founded a fair free school at
Owndale in Northamptonshire, with six alms houses for the poor.
Sir John Gresham, mercer, mayor 1548, founded a free school at Holt, a
market-town in Norfolk.
Sir Rowland Hill, mercer, mayor 1550, caused to be made divers causeways
both for horse and man; he made four bridges, two of stone, containing
eighteen arches in them both; he built one notable free school at Drayton in
Shropshire; he gave to Christ’s hospital in London five hundred pounds, etc.
Sir Andrew Jud, skinner, mayor 1551, erected one notable free school at
Tunbridge in Kent, and alms houses nigh St. Helen’s church in London, and
left to the Skinners lands to the value of sixty pounds three shillings and
eight pence the year; for the which they be bound to pay twenty pounds to
the schoolmaster, eight pounds to the usher, yearly, for ever, and four-
shillings the week to the six alms people, and twenty-five shillings and four
pence the year in coals for ever.
Sir Thomas White, merchant-taylor, mayor 1554, founded St. John’s
college, Oxford, and gave great sums of money to divers towns in England
for relief of the poor, as in my Summary.

Edward Hall, gentleman, of Gray’s inn, a citizen by birth and office, as
common sergeant of London, and one of the judges in the Sheriffs’ court; he
wrote and published a famous and eloquent chronicle, entitled, “The
Uniting of the Two noble Families, Lancaster and Yorke.”
Richard Hils, merchant-taylor, 1560, gave five hundred pounds towards the
purchase of a house called the manor of the Rose, wherein the merchant-
taylors founded their free school in London; he also gave to the said
merchant-taylors one plot of ground, with certain small cottages on the
Tower hill, where he built fair alms houses for fourteen sole women.
About the same time William Lambert, Esq., born in London, a justice of
the peace in Kent, founded a college for the poor which he named of Queen
Elizabeth, in East Greenwich.
William Harper, merchant-taylor, mayor 1562, founded a free school in the
town of Bedford, where he was born, and also buried.
Sir Thomas Gresham, mercer, 1566, built the Royal Exchange in London,
and by his testament left his dwelling house in Bishopsgate street to be a
place for readings, allowing large stipends to the readers, and certain alms
houses for the poor.
William Patten, gentleman, a citizen by birth, a customer of London
outward, justice of peace in Middlesex, the parish church of Stokenewenton
being ruinous, he repaired, or rather new built.
Sir Thomas Roo, merchant-taylor, mayor 1568, gave to the merchant-
taylors lands or tenements, out of them to be given to ten poor men, cloth-
workers, carpenters, tilers, plasterers, and armourers, forty pounds yearly,
namely, four pounds to each, also one hundred pounds to be lent to eight
poor men; besides he enclosed with a wall of brick nigh one acre of ground,
pertaining to the hospital of Bethlem, to be a burial for the dead.
Ambrose Nicholas, salter, mayor 1576, founded twelve alms houses in
Monke’s well street, near unto Creple’s gate, wherein he placed twelve poor
people, having each of them seven pence the week, and once every year
five sacks of coals, and one quarter of a hundred faggots, all of his gift for
ever.
William Lambe, gentleman and clothworker, in the year 1577, built a water-
conduit at Oldborne cross to his charges of fifteen hundred pounds, and did

many other charitable acts, as in my Summary.
Sir T. Offley, merchant-taylor, mayor, deceased 1580, appointed by his
testament the one half of all his goods, and two hundred pounds deducted
out of the other half given to his son Henry, to be given and bestowed in
deeds of charity by his executors, according to his confidence and trust in
them.
John Haydon, sheriff 1583, gave large legacies, more than three thousand
pounds, for the relief of the poor, as in my Summary.
Barnard Randolph, common sergeant of London 1583, gave and delivered
with his own hand, nine hundred pounds towards the building of water-
conduits, which was performed. More, by testament he gave one thousand
pounds to be employed in charitable actions; but that money being in hold
fast hands, I have not heard how it was bestowed, more than of other good
men’s testaments—to be performed.
Sir Wolston Dixie, skinner, mayor 1586, founded a free school at Bosworth,
and endowed it with twenty pounds land by year.
Richard May, merchant-taylor, gave three hundred pounds toward the new
building of Blackwell hall in London, a market-place for woollen cloths.
John Fuller, Esq., one of the judges in the sheriffs’ court of London, by his
testament, dated 1592, appointed his wife, her heirs and assigns, after his
decease, to erect one alms house in the parish of Stikoneth,[123] for twelve
poor single men, aged fifty years or upwards, and one other alms house in
Shoreditch, for twelve poor aged widow women of like age, she to endow
them with one hundred pounds the year, to wit, fifty pounds to each for
ever, out of his lands in Lincolne shire, assured ever unto certain fiefs in
trust, by a deed of feoffment. Item: more, he gave his messuages, lands, and
tenements, lying in the parishes of St. Benet and St. Peter, by Powle’s wharf
in London, to feoffees in trust, yearly for ever, to disburse all the issues and
profits of the said lands and tenements, to the relieving and discharge of
poor prisoners in the Hole, or two penny wards in the two compters in
London, in equal portions to each compter, so that the prisoners exceed not
the sum of twenty-six shillings and eight pence for every one prisoner at
any one time.

Thus much for famous citizens have I noted their charitable actions, for the
most part done by them in their lifetime. The residue left in trust to their
executors, I have known some of them hardly (or never) performed;
wherefore I wish men to make their own hands their executors, and their
eyes their overseers, not forgetting the old proverb:—

“Women be forgetfull, children be unkind,
Executors be covetous, and take what they find.
If any body aske where the dead’s goods became,
They answere, So God me help, and holy dome, he died a
poore man.”

One worthy citizen merchant-taylor, having many years considered this
proverb foregoing, hath therefore established to twelve poor aged men,
merchant-taylors, six pounds two shillings to each yearly for ever. He hath
also given them gowns of good broad cloth, lined thoroughly with bays, and
are to receive every three years’ end the like new gowns for ever.
And now of some women, citizens’ wives, deserving memory, for example
to posterity shall be noted.
Dame Agnes Foster, widow, sometime wife to Stephen Foster, fishmonger,
mayor 1455, having enlarged the prison of Ludgate in 1463, procured in a
common council of this city, certain articles to be established for the ease,
comfort, and relief of poor prisoners there, as in the chapter of gates I have
set down.
Avise Gibson, wife unto Nicholas Gibson, grocer, one of the sheriffs 1539,
by license of her husband, founded a free school at Radclyffe, near unto
London, appointing to the same, for the instruction of sixty poor men’s
children, a schoolmaster and usher with fifty pounds; she also built alms
houses for fourteen poor aged persons, each of them to receive quarterly six
shillings and eight pence the piece for ever; the government of which free
school and alms houses she left in confidence to the Coopers in London.
This virtuous gentlewoman was after joined in marriage with Sir Anthony
Knevet, knight, and so called the Lady Knevet; a fair painted table of her
picture was placed in the chapel which she had built there, but of late
removed thence, by the like reason as the Grocer’s arms fixed on the outer
wall of the schoolhouse are pulled down, and the Coopers set in place.[124]

Margaret Danne, widow to William Danne, ironmonger, one of the sheriffs
of London, gave by her testament to the ironmongers, two thousand pounds,
to be lent to young men of that company, paying after the rate of five
pounds in the year for every hundred; which one hundred pounds so rising
yearly, to be employed on charitable actions, as she then appointed, but not
performed in more than thirty years after.
Dame Mary Ramsey, wife to Sir Thomas Ramsey, mayor about the year
1577, being seised of lands in fee simple of her inheritance to the yearly
value of two hundred and forty-three pounds, by his consent gave the same
to Christ’s hospital in London towards the relief of poor children there, and
other ways, as in my Summary and Abridgment I have long since expressed;
which gift she in her widowhood confirmed and augmented, as is showed
by monuments in Christ’s hospital erected.
Thus much for the worthiness of citizens in this city, touching whom John
Lidgate, a monk of Bury, in the reign of Henry VI., made (amongst other)
these verses following:—

“Of seaven things I prayse this citty.
Of true meaning and faithful observance;
Of righteousnes, truth, and equity;
Of stablenes aye kept in legiance;
And for of vertue thou hast suffisance,
In this lond here, and other londs all,
The kinges chamber of custome, men thee call.”

Having thus in generality handled the original, the walls, gates, ditches, and
fresh waters, the bridges, towers, and castles, the schools of learning and
house of law, the orders and customs, sports and pastimes, watchings and
martial exercises, and lastly the honour and worthiness of the citizens, I am
now to set down the distribution of this city into parts; and more especially
to declare the antiquities noteworthy in every of the same; and how both the
whole and parts have been from time to time ruled and governed.

THE CITY DIVIDED INTO PARTS
The ancient division of this city was into wards or aldermanries. And
therefore I will begin at the east, and so proceed through the high and most
principal street of the city to the west, after this manner.
First, through Aldgate street to the west corner of St. Andrewe’s church,
called Undershaft, on the right hand, and Lyme street corner on the left; all
which is of Aldgate ward; from thence through Cornhill street to the west
corner of Leaden hall; all which is of Lyme street ward. From thence,
leaving the street that leadeth to Bishopsgate on the right hand, and the way
that leadeth into Grasse street on the left, still through Cornhill street, by the
conduit to the west corner against the Stocks; all which is in Cornhill ward.
Then by the said Stocks (a market-place both of fish and flesh standing in
the midst of the city) through the Poultry (a street so called) to the great
conduit in West Cheape, and so through Cheape to the standard, which is of
Cheape ward, except on the south side from Bow-lane to the said standard,
which is of Cordwayner street ward. Then by the standard to the great cross,
which is in Cripplegate ward on the north side, and in Bred street ward on
the south side. And to the little conduit by Paule’s gate, from whence of old
time the said high street stretched straight to Ludgate, all in the ward of
Faringdon within, then divided truly from east to west, but since by means
of the burning of Paule’s church, which was in the reign of William I.,
Mauricius, then bishop of London, laid the foundation of a new church, so
far in largeness exceeding the old, that the way towards Ludgate was
thereby greatly straitened, as before I have discoursed.
Now from the north to the south this city was of old time divided, not by a
large highway or street, as from east to west, but by a fair brook of sweet
water, which came from out the north fields through the wall, and midst of
the city, into the river of Thames; which division is till this day constantly
and without change maintained. This water was called (as I have said)
Walbrooke, not Galus brook of a Roman captain slain by Asclepiodatus,
and thrown therein, as some have fabled, but of running through, and from

the wall of this city; the course whereof, to prosecute it particularly, was
and is from the said wall to St. Margaret’s church in Lothberrie; from
thence beneath the lower part of the Grocers’ hall, about the east part of
their kitchen, under St. Mildred’s church, somewhat west from the said
Stockes’ market; from thence through Buckles berry, by one great house
built of stone and timber called the Old Barge, because barges out of the
river of Thames were rowed up so far into this brook, on the backside of the
houses in Walbrooke street (which street taketh the name of the said brook)
by the west end of St. John’s church upon Walbrooke, under Horseshew
bridge, by the west side of Tallowchandler’s hall, and of the Skinner’s hall,
and so behind the other houses to Elbow lane, and by a part thereof down
Greenewitch lane, into the river of Thames.
This is the course of Walbrooke, which was of old time bridged over in
divers places, for passage of horses and men, as need required; but since, by
means of encroachment on the banks thereof, the channel being greatly
straitened, and other noyances done thereunto, at length the same by
common consent was arched over with brick, and paved with stone, equal
with the ground, where through it passed, and is now in most places built
upon, that no man may by the eye discern it, and therefore the trace thereof
is hardly known to the common people.
This city was divided from east to west, and from north to south. I am
further to show how the same was of old time broken into divers parts
called wards, whereof Fitzstephen, more than four hundred years since,
writeth thus:—“This city, (saith he) even as Rome, is divided into wards; it
hath yearly sheriffs instead of consuls. It hath the dignity of senators in
aldermen,” etc. The number of these wards in London was, both before and
in the reign of Henry III., twenty-four in all; whereof thirteen lay on the east
side of the said Walbrooke, and eleven on the west. Notwithstanding these
eleven grew much more large than those of the east; and therefore in the
year of Christ 1393, in the 17th of Richard II., Faringdon ward, which was
then one entire ward, but mightily increased of buildings without the gates,
was by act of parliament appointed to be divided into twain, and to have
two aldermen, to wit, Faringdon within, and Faringdon without, which
made up the number of twelve wards on the west side of Walbrooke, and so
the whole number of twenty-five on both sides. Moreover, in the year 1550,
the mayor, commonalty, and citizens of London, purchasing the liberties of

the borough of Southwark, appointed the same to be a ward of London, and
so became the number of thirteen wards on the east, twelve on the west, and
one south of the river Thames, in the said borough of Southwark, in the
county of Surrey, which in all arise to the number of twenty-six wards, and
twenty-six aldermen of London.
Wards on the east part of Walbrooke are these:—
1 Portsoken ward without the walls.
2 Tower street ward.
3 Ealdegate ward.
4 Lime street ward.
5 Bishopsgate ward, within the walls and without.
6 Brod street ward.
7 Cornehil ward.
8 Langbourne ward.
9 Billingsgate ward.
10 Bridge ward within.
11 Candlewick street ward.
12 Walbrooke ward.
13 Downgate ward.
Wards on the west side of Walbrooke are these:
14 Vintry ward.
15 Cordwainer street ward.
16 Cheape ward.
17 Colman street warde.
18 Basinghall warde.
19 Cripplegate ward, within and without.
20 Aldersgate ward, within and without.

21 Farringdon ward within.
22 Bread street ward.
23 Queenhithe ward.
24 Castle Baynard ward.
25 Farringdon ward without the walls.
One ward south the river Thames, in the borough of Southwark, by the
name of
26 Bridge ward without.

OF PORTSOKEN WARD, THE FIRST IN THE
EAST PART
Seeing that of every of these wards I have to say somewhat, I will begin
with Portsoken ward without Aldgate.
This Portsoken, which soundeth[125] the franchise at the gate, was sometime
a guild, and had beginning in the days of King Edgar, more than six
hundred years since.[126] There were thirteen knights or soldiers, well-
beloved to the king and realm, for service by them done, which requested to
have a certain portion of land on the east part of the city, left desolate and
forsaken by the inhabitants, by reason of too much servitude. They
besought the king to have this land, with the liberty of a guild for ever. The
king granted to their request, with conditions following: that is, that each of
them should victoriously accomplish three combats, one above the ground,
one under ground, and the third in the water; and after this, at a certain day
in East Smithfield, they should run with spears against all comers; all which
was gloriously performed; and the same day the king named it Knighten
Guild, and so bounded it, from Aldgate to the place where the bars now are,
toward the east, on both the sides of the street, and extended it towards
Bishopsgate in the north, unto the house then of William Presbiter, after of
Giffrey Tanner, and then of the heirs of Colver, after that of John Easeby,
but since of the Lord Bourchier, etc. And again towards the south unto the
river of Thames, and so far into the water, as a horseman, entering the same,
may ride at a low water, and throw his spear; so that all East Smithfield,
with the right part of the street that goeth to Dodding pond into the Thames,
and also the hospital of St. Katherin’s, with the mills that were founded in
King Stephen’s days, and the outward stone wall, and the new ditch of the
Tower, are of the said fee and liberty; for the said wall and ditch of the
Tower were made in the time of King Richard, when he was in the Holy
Land, by William Longshampe, Bishop of Ely, as before I have noted unto
you.

These knights had as then none other charter by all the days of Edgar,
Ethelred, and Cnutus, until the time of Edward the Confessor, whom the
heirs of those knights humbly besought to confirm their liberties; whereunto
he graciously granting,[127] gave them a deed thereof, as appeareth in the
book of the late house of the Holy Trinity. The said charter is fair written in
the Saxon letter and tongue. After this, King William, the son of William
the Conqueror, made a confirmation of the same liberties, unto the heirs of
those knights, in these words: “William, king of England, to Maurice
Bishop, and Godffrey de Magum, and Richard de Parre, and to his faithfull
people of London, greeting: Know ye me to have granted to the men of
Knighten Guilde, the guilde that belonged to them, and the land that
belonged thereunto, with all customes, as they had the same in the time of
King Edward, and my father. Witnesse, Hugh de Buche, at Rething.”
After him, King Henry I. confirmed the same by his charter to the like
effect, the recital whereof I pretermit for brevity. After which time, the
church of the Holy Trinity, within Aldgate of London, being founded by
Queen Matilda, wife to the said Henry, the multitude of brethren, praising
God day and night therein, in short time so increased, that all the city was
delighted in the beholding of them; insomuch, that in the year 1115, certain
burgesses of London, of the progeny of those noble English knights; to wit,
Radulphus Fitalgod, Wilmarde le Deucreshe, Orgar le Prude, Edward
Hupcornehill, Blackstanus, and Alwine his kinsman, and Robert his brother,
the sons of Leafstanus the goldsmith, Wiso his son, Hugh Fitzvulgar, Algare
Secusme, coming together into the chapter-house of the said church of the
Holy Trinity, gave to the same church and canons serving God therein, all
the lands and soke called in English Knighten Guilde, which lieth to the
wall of the city, without the same gate, and stretcheth to the river of
Thames; they gave it, I say, taking upon them the brotherhood and
participation of the benefits of that house, by the hands of Prior Norman.
And the better to confirm this their grant, they offered upon the altar there
the charter of Edward, together with the other charters which they had
thereof; and afterward they did put the foresaid prior in seisine thereof, by
the church of St. Buttolphe’s, which is built thereon, and is the head of that
land. These things were thus done before Bernard, prior of Dunstable, John,
prior of Derland, Geffrey Clinton, chamberlain, and many other clerks and
laymen, French and English. Orgar le Prude (one of their company) was
sent to King Henry, beseeching him to confirm their gift, which the king

gladly granted by his deed: “Henrie, king of England, to Richard Bishop of
London, to the shireffes and provost, and to all his barons and faithfull
people, French and English, of London and Middlesex, greeting: Know ye
mee to have graunted and confirmed to the church and canons of the Holy
Trinitie of London, the soke of the English Knighten Guilde, and the land
which pertaineth thereunto, and the church of St. Buttolph, as the men of
the same guilde have given and granted unto them: and I will and straightly
commaund, that they may hold the same well and honourably and freely,
with sacke and soke, toll and thea, infangthefe, and all customs belonging to
it, as the men of the same Guild in best sort had the same in the time of K.
Edward, and as King William, my father and brother, did grant it to them by
their writs. Witnesse, A. the queene, Geffrey the chauncellor, Geoffrey of
Clinton, and William of Clinton, at Woodstocke.” All these prescribed
writings (saith my book), which sometime belonged to the priory of the
Holy Trinity, are registered in the end of the Book of Remembrances, in the
Guildhall of London, marked with the letter C, folio 134. The king sent also
his sheriffs, to wit, Aubrey de Vere, and Roger, nephew to Hubert, which
upon his behalf should invest this church with the possessions thereof,
which the said sheriffs accomplished coming upon the ground; Andrew
Buchevite, and the forenamed witnesses, and other, standing by;
notwithstanding, Othowerus Acolivillus, Otto, and Geffrey, Earl of Essex,
constables of the Tower by succession, withheld by force a portion of the
said land, as I have before delivered.
The prior and canons of the Holy Trinity, being thus seised of the said land
and soke of Knighten Guilde, a part of the suburb without the wall (but
within the liberties of the city), the same prior was, for him and his
successors, admitted as one of the aldermen of London, to govern the same
land and soke: according to the customs of the city, he did sit in court, and
rode with the mayor and his brethren the aldermen, as one of them, in
scarlet or other livery as they used, until the year 1531, at the which time
the said priory, by the last prior there, was surrendered to King Henry VIII.,
in the 23rd of his reign, who gave this priory to Sir Thomas Audley, knight,
lord chancellor of England, and he pulled down the church; since the which
dissolution of that house, the said ward of Portsoken hath been governed by
a temporal man, one of the aldermen of London, elected by the citizens, as
the aldermen of other wards. Thus much for the out-bounds of Knighten
guilde, or Portsoken ward, and for the antiquity and government thereof.

Now, of the parts therein, this is specially to be noted. First, the east part of
the Tower standeth there, then an hospital of St. Katherine’s, founded by
Matilda the queen, wife to King Stephen, by license of the priory and
convent of the Holy Trinity in London, on whose grounds he founded it.
Helianor the queen, wife to King Edward I., a second foundress, appointed
there to be a master, three brethren chaplains, and three sisters, ten poor
women, and six poor clerks; she gave to them the manor of Carlton in
Wiltshire, and Upchurch in Kent, etc. Queen Philippa, wife to King Edward
III., 1351, founded a chantry there, and gave to that hospital ten pounds
land by year; it was of late time called a free chapel, a college, and an
hospital for poor sisters. The choir, which of late years was not much
inferior to that of Paules, was dissolved by Dr. Wilson, a late master there,
the brethren and sisters remaining: this house was valued at £315 14s. 2d.,
being now of late years inclosed about, or pestered with small tenements
and homely cottages, having inhabitants, English and strangers, more in
number than in some city in England. There lie buried in this church the
countess of Huntingdon, countess of the March in her time, 1429; John
Holland, Duke of Exeter and Earl of Huntingdon, 1447, and his two wives,
in a fair tomb on the north side the choir; Thomas Walsingham, esquire, and
Thomas Ballarde, esquire, by him, 1465; Thomas Flemming, knight, 1466,
etc.[128]
On the east and by north of the Tower, lieth East Smithfield and Tower hill,
two plots of ground so called, without the wall of the city; and east from
them both was sometime a monastery, called New Abbey, founded by King
Edward III. in the year 1359, upon occasion as followeth:
In the year 1348, the 23rd of Edward III., the first great pestilence in his
time began, and increased so sore, that for want of room in churchyards to
bury the dead of the city and of the suburbs, one John Corey, clerk,
procured of Nicholas, prior of the Holy Trinity within Aldgate, one toft[129]
of ground near unto East Smithfield, for the burial of them that died, with
condition that it might be called the churchyard of the Holy Trinity; which
ground he caused, by the aid of divers devout citizens, to be inclosed with a
wall of stone. Robert Elsing, son of William Elsing, gave five pounds
thereunto; and the same was dedicated by Ralph Stratford, Bishop of
London, where innumerable bodies of the dead were afterwards buried, and
a chapel built in the same place to the honour of God: to the which King

Edward setting his eye (having before, in a tempest on the sea, and peril of
drowning, made a vow to build a monastery to the honour of God, and our
lady of grace, if God would grant him grace to come safe to land), built
there a monastery, placing an abbot, and monks of the Cistercian, or White
order. The bounds of this plot of ground, together with a decree for tithes
thereof, are expressed in the charter, the effect whereof I have set down in
another place, and have to show. This house, at the late general suppression,
was valued at £546 0s. 10d. yearly; it was surrendered in the year 1539, the
30th of Henry VIII.; since the which time, the said monastery being clean
pulled down by Sir Arthur Darcie, knight, and others, of late time in place
thereof is built a large storehouse for victuals; and convenient ovens are
built there, for baking of biscuits to serve her majesty’s ships. The grounds
adjoining, belonging to the said abbey, are employed in building of small
tenements.
For Tower hill, as the same is greatly diminished by building of tenements
and garden-plots, etc. So it is of late, to wit, in the year of Christ 1593, on
the north side thereof, and at the west end of Hog street, beautified by
certain fair alms houses, strongly built of brick and timber, and covered
with slate for the poor, by the merchant-tailors of London, in place of some
small cottages given to them by Richard Hils, sometime a master of that
company, one thousand loads of timber for that use, being also given by
Anthonie Radcliffe, of the same society, alderman. In these alms houses,
fourteen charitable brethren of the said merchant-tailors yet living, have
placed fourteen poor sole women, which receive each of them of their
founder sixteen pence, or better, weekly, besides £8 15s. yearly, paid out of
the common treasury of the same corporation for fuel.
From the west part of this Tower hill, towards Aldgate, being a long
continual street, amongst other smaller buildings in that row, there was
sometime an abbey of nuns of the order of St. Clare, called the Minories,
founded by Edmond, Earl of Lancaster, Leycester, and Darbie, brother to
King Edward III., in the year 1293; the length of which abbey contained
fifteen perches and seven feet, near unto the king’s street or highway, etc.,
as appeareth by a deed, dated 1303.
A plague of pestilence being in this city, in the year 1515, there died in this
house of nuns professed to the number of twenty-seven, besides other lay
people, servants in their house. This house was valued to dispend £418 8s.

5d. yearly, and was surrendered by Dame Elizabeth Salvage, the last abbess
there, unto King Henry VIII. in the 30th of his reign, the year of Christ
1539.
In place of this house of nuns is now built divers fair and large storehouses
for armour and habiliments of war, with divers workhouses, serving to the
same purpose: there is a small parish church for inhabitants of the close,
called St. Trinities.
Near adjoining to this abbey, on the south side thereof, was sometime a
farm belonging to the said nunnery; at the which farm I myself in my youth
have fetched many a halfpenny worth of milk, and never had less than three
ale pints for a halfpenny in the summer, nor less than one ale quart for a
halfpenny in the winter, always hot from the kine, as the same was milked
and strained. One Trolop, and afterwards Goodman, were the farmers there,
and had thirty or forty kine to the pail. Goodman’s son being heir to his
father’s purchase, let out the ground first for grazing of horses, and then for
garden-plots, and lived like a gentleman thereby.
On the other side of that street lieth the ditch without the walls of the city,
which of old time was used to be open, always from time to time cleansed
from filth and mud, as need required; of great breadth, and so deep, that
divers, watering horses where they thought it shallowest, were drowned,
both horse and man. But now of later time the same ditch is inclosed, and
the banks thereof let out for garden-plots, carpenters’ yards, bowling allies,
and divers houses thereon built, whereby the city wall is hidden, the ditch
filled up, a small channel left, and that very shallow.
From Aldgate, east, lieth a large street and highway, sometime replenished
with few, but fair and comely buildings; on the north side whereof, the first
was the parish church of St. Buttolph, in a large cemetery or churchyard.
This church hath been lately new built at the special charges of the priors of
the Holy Trinity; patrons thereof, as it appeareth by the arms of that house,
engraven on the stone work. The parishioners of this parish being of late
years mightily increased, the church is pestered with lofts and seats for
them. Monuments in this church are few: Henry Jorden founded a chauntry
there; John Romany Ollarie, and Agnes his wife, were buried there about
1408; Richard Chester, alderman, one of the sheriffs, 1484; Thomas Lord
Darcie of the north, knight of the garter, beheaded 1537; Sir Nicholas

Carew, of Bedington, in Surrey, knight of the garter, beheaded 1538; Sir
Arthur Darcie, youngest son to Thomas Lord Darcie, deceased at the new
abbey on the Tower hill, was buried there. East from this parish church,
there were certain fair inns for receipt of travellers repairing to the city, up
towards Hog lane end, somewhat within the bars, a mark showing how far
the liberties of the city do extend.
This Hog lane stretcheth north toward St. Mary Spitle without Bishopsgate,
and within these forty years[130] had on both sides fair hedge rows of elm
trees, with bridges and easy stiles to pass over into the pleasant fields, very
commodious for citizens therein to walk, shoot, and otherwise to recreate
and refresh their dull spirits in the sweet and wholesome air, which is now
within a few years made a continual building throughout, of garden-houses
and small cottages; and the fields on either sides be turned into garden-
plots, tenter yards, bowling alleys, and such like, from Houndes ditch in the
west, as far as White Chappell, and further towards the east.
On the south side of the highway from Aldgate were some few tenements,
thinly scattered here and there, with many void spaces between them, up to
the Bars; but now that street is not only fully replenished with buildings
outward, and also pestered with divers alleys, on either side to the bars, but
to White Chappell and beyond. Among the which late buildings, one
memorable for the commodity of that east part of this city is a fair water
conduit, hard without the gate; at the building whereof in the year 1535, Sir
John Allen being mayor, two-fifteens were granted by the citizens for the
making and laying of pipes, to convey water from Hackney to that place;
and so that work was finished.
From Aldgate, north-west to Bishopsgate, lieth the ditch of the city called
Houndes ditch; for that in old time, when the same lay open, much filth
(conveyed forth of the city), especially dead dogs, were there laid or cast;
wherefore of latter time a mud wall was made, inclosing the ditch, to keep
out the laying of such filth as had been accustomed. Over against this mud
wall, on the other side of the street, was a fair field, sometime belonging to
the priory of the Trinity, and since by Sir Thomas Audley given to
Magdalen college in Cambridge: this field (as all other about the city) was
inclosed, reserving open passage thereinto, for such as were disposed.
Towards the street were some small cottages, of two stories high, and little
garden-plots backward, for poor bed-rid people, for in that street dwelt none

other, built by some prior of the Holy Trinity, to whom that ground
belonged.
In my youth, I remember, devout people, as well men as women of this city,
were accustomed oftentimes, especially on Fridays, weekly to walk that
way purposely there to bestow their charitable alms; every poor man or
woman lying in their bed within their window, which was towards the
street, open so low that every man might see them, a clean linen cloth lying
in their window, and a pair of beads, to show that there lay a bed-rid body,
unable but to pray only. This street was first paved in the year 1503.
About the latter reign of Henry VIII., three brethren that were gunfounders,
surnamed Owens, got ground there to build upon, and to inclose for casting
of brass ordinance. These occupied a good part of the street on the field
side, and in a short time divers others also built there, so that the poor bed-
rid people were worn out, and, in place of their homely cottages, such
houses built as do rather want room than rent; which houses be for the most
part possessed by brokers, sellers of old apparel, and such like. The residue
of the field was for the most part made into a garden by a gardener named
Cawsway, one that served the markets with herbs and roots; and in the last
year of King Edward VI. the same was parcelled into gardens wherein are
now many fair houses of pleasure built.
On the ditch side of this street the mud wall is also by little and little all
taken down, the bank of the ditch being raised, made level ground, and
turned into garden-plots and carpenters’ yards, and many large houses are
there built; the filth of which houses, as also the earth cast out of their
vaults, is turned into the ditch, by which means the ditch is filled up, and
both the ditch and wall so hidden that they cannot be seen of the passers by.
This Portsoken ward hath an alderman and his deputy, common councillors
six, constables four, scavengers four, for the wardemote inquest eighteen,
and a beadle. To the fifteen it is cessed at four pounds ten shillings.

TOWER STREET WARD
The first ward in the east part of this city within the wall is called Tower
street ward, and extendeth along the river of Thames from the said Tower in
the east almost to Belinsgate in the west. One half of the Tower, the ditch on
the west side, and bulwarks adjoining, do stand within that part where the
wall of the city of old time went straight from the postern gate south to the
river of Thames, before that the Tower was built. From and without the
Tower ditch, west and by north, is the said Tower hill, sometime a large plot
of ground, now greatly straitened by incroachments (unlawfully made and
suffered) for gardens and houses; some on the bank of the Tower ditch,
whereby the Tower ditch is marred, but more near unto the wall of the city
from the postern north, till over against the principal fore-gate of the Lord
Lumley’s house, etc.; but the Tower ward goeth no further that way.
Upon this hill is always readily prepared, at the charges of the city, a large
scaffold and gallows of timber, for the execution of such traitors or
transgressors as are delivered out of the Tower, or otherwise, to the sheriffs
of London by writ, there to be executed. I read, that in the fifth of King
Edward IV.[131] a scaffold and gallows was there set up by other the king’s
officers, and not of the city’s charges, whereupon the mayor and his
brethren complained, but were answered by the king that the Tower hill was
of the liberty of the city; and whatsoever was done in that point was not in
derogation of the city’s liberties, and therefore commanded
proclamation[132] to be made, as well within the city as in the suburbs, as
followeth: “Forasmuch as, the seventh day of this present month of
November, gallows were erect and set up besides our Tower of London,
within the liberties and franchises of our city of London, in derogation and
prejudice of the liberties and franchises of this city, the king our sovereign
lord would it be certainly understood that the erection and setting up of the
said gallows was not done by his commandment; wherefore the king our
sovereign lord willeth that the erection and setting up the said gallows be
not any precedent or example thereby hereafter to be taken, in hurt,

prejudice, or derogation of the franchises, liberties, and privileges of the
said city, which he at all times hath had, and hath in his benevolence, tender
favour, and good grace, etc. Apud Westminst. 9 die Novemb. anno regni
nostri quinto.” On the north side of this hill is the said Lord Lumley’s
house, and on the west side divers houses lately built, and other
incroachments along south to Chick lane,[133] on the east of Barking church,
at the end whereof you have Tower street stretching from the Tower hill,
west to St. Margaret Patten’s church parsonage.
Now therefore, to begin at the east end of the street, on the north side
thereof, is the fair parish church called Allhallows Barking, which standeth
in a large, but sometime far larger, cemetery or churchyard; on the north
side whereof was sometime built a fair chapel, founded by King Richard I.;
some have written that his heart was buried there under the high altar. This
chapel was confirmed and augmented by King Edward I. Edward IV. gave
license to his cousin John, Earl of Worcester, to found there a brotherhood
for a master and brethren; and he gave to the custos of that fraternity, which
was Sir John Scot, knight, Thomas Colte, John Tate, and John Croke, the
priory of Totingbecke, and advowson of the parish church of Streatham, in
the county of Surrey, with all the members and appurtenances, and a part of
the priory of Okeborn in Wiltshire, both priors aliens, and appointed it to be
called the king’s chapel or chantry, In capella Beatæ Mariæ de Barking.
King Richard III. new built and founded therein a college of priests, etc.
Hamond de Lega was buried in that chapel. Robert Tate, mayor of London,
1488,[134] and other, were there buried. This chapel and college were
suppressed and pulled down in the year 1548, the 2nd of King Edward VI.
The ground was employed as a garden-plot during the reigns of King
Edward, Queen Mary, and part of Queen Elizabeth, till at length a large
strong frame of timber and brick was set thereon, and employed as a store-
house of merchants’ goods brought from the sea by Sir William Winter, etc.
Monuments in the parish church of Allhallows Barking, not defaced, are
these:—Sir Thomas Studinham, of Norwich diocess, knight, 1469; Thomas
Gilbart, draper and merchant of the staple, 1483; John Bolt, merchant of the
staple, 1459; Sir John Stile, knight, draper, 1500. William Thinne, esq., one
of the clerks of the Green cloth, and master of the household to King Henry
VIII., 1546; Humfrey Monmouth, draper, one of the sheriffs, 1535; Henry
Howard, Earl of Surrey, beheaded 1546; Sir Richard Devereux, son and heir

to the Lord Ferrers of Chartley; Richard Browne, esq. 1546; Philip Dennis,
esq. 1556; Andrew Evenger, salter; William Robinson, mercer, alderman,
1552; William Armorer, cloth-worker, esquire, governor of the pages of
honour, or master of the heance men, servant to Henry VIII., Edward VI.,
and Queen Mary, buried 1560. Besides which there be divers tombs without
inscription. John Crolys and Thomas Pike, citizens of London, founded a
chantry there 1388.
By the west end of this parish church and chapel, lieth Sidon lane, now
corruptly called Sything lane, from Tower street up north to Hart street. In
this Sidon lane divers fair and large houses are built, namely, one by Sir
John Allen, sometime mayor of London, and of council unto King Henry
VIII.; Sir Francis Walsingham, knight, principal secretary to the queen’s
majesty that now is, was lodged there, and so was the Earl of Essex, etc. At
the north-west corner of this lane standeth a proper parish church of St.
Olave, which church, together with some houses adjoining, as also others
over against it in Hart street, are of the said Tower street ward. Monuments
in this parish church of St. Olave be these:—Richard Cely and Robert Cely,
fellmongers, principal builders and benefactors of this church; Dame Johan,
wife to Sir John Zouch, 1439; John Clarenciaulx, king of arms, 1427;
Thomas Sawle; Sir Richard Haddon, mercer, mayor 1512; Thomas Burnell,
mercer, 1548; Thomas Morley, gentleman, 1566; Sir John Radcliffe, knight,
1568; and Dame Anne his wife, 1585; Chapone, a Florentine gentleman,
1582; Sir Hamond Vaughan, knight; George Stoddard, merchant; etc.
Then have ye out of Tower street, also on the north side, one other lane,
called Marte lane, which runneth up towards the north, and is for the most
part of this Tower street ward; which lane is about the third quarter thereof
divided from Aldgate ward, by a chain to be drawn athwart the said lane,
above the west end of Hart street. Cokedon hall, sometime at the south-west
end of Marte lane, I read of.[135]
A third lane out of Tower street, on the north side, is called Mincheon lane,
so called of tenements there sometime pertaining to the Minchuns or nuns
of St. Helen’s in Bishopsgate street. This lane is all of the said ward, except
the corner house towards Fenchurch street. In this lane of old time dwelt
divers strangers born of Genoa and those parts; these were commonly called
galley men, as men that came up in the galleys brought up wines and other
merchandises, which they landed in Thames street, at a place called Galley

key; they had a certain coin of silver amongst themselves, which were
halfpence of Genoa, and were called Galley halfpence; these halfpence
were forbidden in the 13th of Henry IV., and again by parliament in the 4th
of Henry V. It was, that if any person bring into this realm halfpence,
suskinges, or dodkins, he should be punished as a thief; and he that taketh
or payeth such money shall leese a hundred shillings, whereof the king shall
have the one half, and he that will sue the other half. Notwithstanding, in
my youth, I have seen them pass current, but with some difficulty, for that
the English halfpence were then, though not so broad, somewhat thicker
and stronger.
The Clothworkers’ hall is in this lane. Then at the west end of Tower street
have ye a little turning towards the north to a fair house sometime
belonging to one named Griste, for he dwelt there in the year 1449. And
Jack Cade, captain of the rebels in Kent, being by him in this his house
feasted, when he had dined, like an unkind guest, robbed him of all that was
there to be found worth the carriage. Next to this is one other fair house,
sometime built by Angell Dune, grocer, alderman of London, since
possessed by Sir John Champneis, alderman, and mayor of London. He
built in this house a high tower of brick, the first that I ever heard of in any
private man’s house, to overlook his neighbours in this city. But this delight
of his eye was punished with blindness some years before his death. Since
that time. Sir Percevall Hart, a jolly courtier, and knight-harbinger to the
queen, was lodged there, etc. From this house, somewhat west, is the parish
church of St. Margaret’s Pattens; to the which church and house, on the
north side, and as far over against on the south, stretcheth the farthest west
part of this ward.
And, therefore, to begin again at the east end of Tower street, on the south
side, have ye Beare lane, wherein are many fair houses, and runneth down
to Thames street. The next is Sporiar lane, of old time so called, but since
and of later time named Water lane, because it runneth down to the water
gate by the Custom house in Thames street. Then is there Hart lane for
Harpe lane, which likewise runneth down into Thames street. In this Hart
lane is the Bakers’ hall, sometime the dwelling-house of John Chichley,
chamberlain of London, who was son to William Chichley, alderman of
London, brother to William Chichley, archdeacon of Canterburie, nephew to
Robert Chichley, mayor of London, and to Henry Chichley, archbishop of

Canterburie. This John Chichley, saith John Leland, had twenty-four
children. Sir Thomas Kirrioll, of Kent, after he had been long prisoner in
France, married Elizabeth, one of the daughters of this Chichley, by whom
he had this Chichley’s house. This Elizabeth was secondly married to Sir
Ralfe Ashton, knight-marshal, and thirdly, to Sir John Burchier, uncle to the
late Burchier, Earl of Essex, but she never had child. Edward Poynings
made part with Burchier and Elizabeth, to have Ostenhanger in Kent, after
their death, and entered into it, they living.
In Tower street, between Hart lane and Church lane, was a quadrant called
Galley row, because galley men dwelt there. Then have ye two lanes out of
Tower street, both called Church lanes, because one runneth down by the
east end of St. Dunstan’s church, and the other by the west end of the same;
out of the west lane turneth another lane west towards St. Marie Hill, and is
called Fowle lane, which is for the most part in Tower street ward.
This church of St. Dunstone is called, in the east, for difference from one
other of the same name in the west; it is a fair and large church of an
ancient building, and within a large churchyard; it hath a great parish of
many rich merchants, and other occupiers of divers trades, namely salters
and ironmongers.
The monuments in that church be these:—In the choir, John Kenington,
parson, there buried 1374; William Islip, parson, 1382; John Kryoll, esq.,
brother to Thomas Kryoll, 1400; Nicholas Bond, Thomas Barry, merchant,
1445; Robert Shelly, esq., 1420; Robert Pepper, grocer, 1445; John
Norwich, grocer, 1390; Alice Brome, wife to John Coventry, sometime
mayor of London, 1433; William Isaack, draper, alderman, 1508; Edward
Skales, merchant, 1521; John Ricroft, esq., sergeant of the larder to Henry
VII. and Henry VIII., 1532; Edwaters, esq., sergeant-at-arms, 1558; Sir
Bartholomew James, draper, mayor 1479, buried under a fair monument
with his lady; Ralfe Greenway, grocer, alderman, put under the stone of
Robert Pepper, 1559; Thomas Bledlow, one of the sheriffs 1472; James
Bacon, fishmonger, sheriff, 1573; Sir Richard Champion, draper, mayor
1568; Henry Herdson, skinner, alderman, 1555; Sir James Garnado, knight;
William Hariot, draper, mayor 1481, buried in a fair chapel by him built,
1517; John Tate, son to Sir John Tate, in the same chapel in the north wall;
Sir Christopher Draper, ironmonger, mayor 1566, buried 1580. And many

other worshipful personages besides, whose monuments are altogether
defaced.
Now for the two Church lanes, they meeting on the south side of this church
and church yard, do join in one, and running down to the Thames street, the
same is called St. Dunstan’s hill, at the lower end whereof the said Thames
street towards the west on both sides almost to Belin’s gate, but towards the
east up to the water gate, by the bulwark of the Tower, is all of Tower street
ward. In this street, on the Thames side, are divers large landing-places
called wharfs or keys, for craneage up of wares and merchandise, as also for
shipping of wares from thence to be transported. These wharfs and keys
commonly bear the names of their owners, and are therefore changeable. I
read, in the 26th of Henry VI., that in the parish of St. Dunstone in the east,
a tenement, called Passeke’s wharf, and another called Horner’s key, in
Thames street, were granted to William Harindon, esq. I read also, that in
the 6th of Richard II., John Churchman, grocer, for the quiet of merchants,
did newly build a certain house upon the key, called Wool wharf, in the
Tower street ward, in the parish of Allhallows Barking, betwixt the
tenement of Paule Salisberrie on the east part, and the lane called the water
gate on the west, to serve for tronage, or weighing of wools in the port of
London; whereupon the king granted that during the life of the said John,
the aforesaid tronage should be held and kept in the said house, with
easements there for the balances and weights, and a counting place for the
customer, controllers, clerks, and other officers of the said tronage, together
with ingress and egress to and from the same, even as was had in other
places, where the said tronage was wont to be kept, and that the king should
pay yearly to the said John during his life forty shillings at the terms of St.
Michael and Easter, by even portions, by the hands of his customer, without
any other payment to the said John, as in the indenture thereof more at large
appeareth.
Near unto this Customer’s key towards the east, is the said water gate, and
west from it Porter’s key, then Galley key, where the gallies were used to
unlade and land their merchandises and wares; and that part of Thames
street was therefore of some called Galley row, but more commonly Petty
Wales.
On the north side, as well as on the south of this Thames street, are many
fair houses large for stowage, built for merchants; but towards the east end

thereof, namely, over against Galley key, Wool key, and the Custom house,
there have been of old time some large buildings of stone, the ruins whereof
do yet remain, but the first builders and owners of them are worn out of
memory, wherefore the common people affirm Julius Cæsar to be the
builder thereof, as also of the Tower itself. But thereof I have spoken
already. Some are of another opinion, and that a more likely, that this great
stone building was sometime the lodging appointed for the princes of
Wales, when they repaired to this city, and that, therefore, the street in that
part is called Petty Wales, which name remaineth there most commonly
until this day, even as where the kings of Scotland were used to be lodged
betwixt Charing cross and White hall, it is likewise called Scotland, and
where the earls of Britons were lodged without Aldersgate, the street is
called Britain street, etc.
The said building might of old time pertain to the princes of Wales, as is
aforesaid, but is since turned to other use.
It is before noted of Galley key, that the galleys of Italie, and other parts,
did there discharge their wines and merchandises brought to this city. It is
like, therefore, that the merchants and owners procured the place to build
upon for their lodgings and storehouses, as the merchants of the Haunce of
Almaine were licensed to have a house, called Gilda Teutonicorum, the
Guild hall of the Germans. Also the merchants of Burdeaux were licensed
to build at the Vintry, strongly with stone, as may be yet seen, and seemeth
old, though often repaired; much more cause have these buildings in Petty
Wales, though as lately built, and partly of the like stone brought from Caen
in Normandie, to seem old, which for many years, to wit, since the galleys
left their course of landing there,[136] hath fallen to ruin, and been let out for
stabling of horses, to tipplers of beer, and such like; amongst others, one
Mother Mampudding (as they termed her) for many years kept this house,
or a great part thereof, for victualling; and it seemeth that the builders of the
hall of this house were shipwrights, and not house carpenters; for the frame
thereof (being but low) is raised of certain principal posts of main timber,
fixed deep in the ground, without any groundsell, boarded close round
about on the inside, having none other wall from the ground to the roof,
those boards not exceeding the length of a clap board, about an inch thick,
every board ledging over other as in a ship or galley, nailed with ship nails
called rough and clench, to wit, rough nails with broad round heads, and

clenched on the other side with square plates of iron. The roof of this hall is
also wrought of the like board, and nailed with rough and clench, and
seemeth as it were a galley, the keel turned upwards; and I observed that no
worm or rottenness is seen to have entered either board or timber of that
hall, and therefore, in mine opinion, of no great antiquity.[137]
I read, in 44th of Edward III., that a hospital in the parish of Barking church
was founded by Robert Denton, chaplain, for the sustentation of poor
priests, and other both men and women, that were sick of the frenzy, there
to remain till they were perfectly whole, and restored to good memory. Also
I read, that in the 6th of Henry V. there was in the Tower ward a messuage,
or great house, called Cobham’s inn; and in the 37th of Henry VI, a
messuage in Thames street pertaining to Richard Longvile, etc. Some of the
ruins before spoken of may seem to be of the foresaid hospital, belonging
peradventure to some prior alien, and so suppressed among the rest in the
reign of Edward III. or Henry V., who suppressed them all. Thus much for
the bounds and antiquities of this ward, wherein is noted the Tower of
London, three parish churches, the custom house, and two halls of
companies, to wit, the clothworkers and the bakers. This ward hath an
alderman, his deputy, common councillors eight, constables thirteen,
scavengers twelve, wardmote men thirteen, and a beadle; it is taxed to the
fifteenth at six and twenty pounds.[138]

ALDGATE WARD
The second ward within the wall, on the east part, is called Aldgate ward, as
taking name of the same gate. The principal street of this ward beginneth at
Aldgate, stretching west to sometime a fair well, where now a pump is
placed; from thence the way being divided into twain, the first and principal
street is called Aldgate street, runneth on the south side to Lime street
corner, and half that street down on the left hand is also of that ward. In the
mid way on that south side, betwixt Aldgate and Lime street, is Hart horn
alley, a way that goeth through into Fenchurch street over against
Northumberland house. Then have ye the Bricklayers’ hall, and another
alley called Sprinckle alley, now named Sugarloafe alley, of the like sign.
Then is there a fair house, with divers tenements near adjoining, sometimes
belonging to a late dissolved priory, since possessed by Mistress
Cornewallies, widow, and her heirs, by gift of Henry VIII., in reward of fine
puddings (as it was commonly said) by her made, wherewith she had
presented him. Such was the princely liberality of those times. Of later time
Sir Nicholas Throgmorton, knight, was lodged there. Then, somewhat more
west is Belzettar’s lane, so called of the first builder and owner thereof, now
corruptly called Billitar lane. Betwixt this Belzettar lane and Lime street
was of later time a frame of three fair houses, set up in the year 1590, in
place where before was a large garden plot, enclosed from the high street
with a brick wall, which wall being taken down, and the ground dug deep
for cellarage, there was found right under the said brick wall another wall of
stone, with a gate arched of stone, and gates of timber to be closed in the
midst towards the street; the timber of the gates was consumed, but the
hinges of iron still remained on their staples on both the sides. Moreover, in
that wall were square windows, with bars of iron on either side of the gate.
This wall was under ground about two fathoms deep, as I then esteemed it,
and seemeth to be the ruins of some houses burned in the reign of King
Stephen, when the fire began in the house of one Alewarde, near London
stone, and consumed east to Aldgate, whereby it appeareth how greatly the
ground of this city hath been in that place raised.

On the north side this principal street stretcheth to the west corner of St.
Andrewe’s church, and then the ward turneth towards the north by St. Marie
street, on the east side to St. Augustine’s church in the wall, and so by
Buries markes again, or about by the wall to Aldgate.
The second way from Aldgate, more towards the south, from the pump
aforesaid, is called Fenchurch street, and is of Aldgate ward till ye come to
Culver alley, on the west side of Ironmongers hall, where sometime was a
lane which went out of Fenchurch street to the middest of Lime street, but
this lane was stopped up for suspicion of thieves that lurked there by night.
Again to Aldgate out of the principal street, even by the gate and wall of the
city, runneth a lane south to Crowched Friers, and then Woodroffe lane to
the Tower hill, and out of this lane west a street called Hart street, which of
that ward stretched to Sydon lane by St. Olave’s church. One other lane
more west from Aldgate goeth by Northumberland house toward the
Crossed Friers; then have ye on the same side the north end of Mart lane
and Blanch Apleton, where that ward endeth.
Thus much for the bounds; now for monuments, or places most ancient and
notable.
I am first to begin with the late dissolved priory of the Holy Trinity, called
Christ’s church, on the right hand within Aldgate. This priory was founded
by Matilda, queen, wife to Henry I., in the same place where Siredus
sometime began to erect a church in honour of the Cross and of St. Marie
Magdalen, of which the Dean and Chapter of Waltham were wont to receive
thirty shillings. The queen was to acquit her church thereof, and in
exchange gave unto them a mill. King Henry confirmed her gift. This
church was given to Norman, first canon regular in all England. The said
queen also gave unto the same church, and those that served God therein,
the plot of Aldgate, and the soke thereunto belonging, with all customs so
free as she had held the same, and twenty-five pound blankes, which she
had of the city of Excester, as appeareth by her deed, wherein she nameth
the house Christ’s church, and reporteth Aldgate to be of her domains,
which she granteth with two parts of the rent of the city of Excester.
Norman took upon him to be prior of Christ’s church, in the year of Christ
1108, in the parishes of St. Mary Magdalen, St. Michael, St. Katherine, and
the Blessed Trinity, which now was made but one parish of the Holy Trinity,
and was in old time of the Holy Cross or Holy Rood parish. The priory was

built on a piece of ground in the parish of St. Katherine towards Aldgate,
which lieth in length betwixt the King’s street, by the which men go
towards Aldgate, near to the chapel of St. Michael towards the north, and
containeth in length eighty-three ells, half, quarter, and half-quarter of the
king’s iron eln, and lieth in breadth, etc. The soke and ward of Aldgate was
then bounded as I have before showed. The queen was a means also that the
land and English Knighten Guild was given unto the prior Norman: the
honourable man, Geffrey de Glinton, was a great helper therein, and
obtained that the canons might enclose the way betwixt their church and the
wall of the city, etc. This priory, in process of time, became a very fair and
large church, rich in lands and ornaments, and passed all the priories in the
city of London or shire of Middlesex; the prior whereof was an alderman of
London, to wit, of Portsoken ward.
I read, that Eustacius, the eighth prior, about the year 1264, because he
would not deal with temporal matters, instituted Theobald Fitz Ivonis,
alderman of Portsoken ward under him, and that William Rising, prior of
Christ’s church, was sworn alderman of the said Portsoken ward in the 1st
of Richard II. These priors have sitten and ridden amongst the aldermen of
London, in livery like unto them, saving that his habit was in shape of a
spiritual person, as I myself have seen in my childhood; at which time the
prior kept a most bountiful house of meat and drink, both for rich and poor,
as well within the house as at the gates, to all comers, according to their
estates.
These were the monuments in this church:—Sir Robert Turke, and Dame
Alice his wife; John Tirell, esquire; Simon Kempe, esquire; James
Manthorpe, esquire; John Ascue, esquire; Thomas Fauset, of Scalset,
esquire; John Kempe, gentleman; Robert Chirwide, esquire; Sir John
Heningham, and Dame Isabel his wife; Dame Agnes, wife first to Sir
William Bardolph, and then to Sir Thomas Mortimer; John Ashfield,
esquire; Sir John Dedham, knight; Sir Ambrose Charcam; Joan, wife to
Thomas Nuck, gentleman; John Husse, esquire; John Beringham, esquire;
Thomas Goodwine, esquire; Ralph Walles, esquire; Dame Margaret,
daughter to Sir Ralph Chevie, wife to Sir John Barkeley, to Sir Thomas
Barnes, and to Sir W. Bursire; William Roofe; Simon Francis; John Breton,
esquire; Helling, esquire; John Malwen and his wife; Anthonie Wels, son to
John Wels; Nicholas de Avesey, and Margarie his wife; Anthonie, son to

John Milles; Baldwine, son to King Stephen, and Mathilde, daughter to
King Stephen, wife to the Earl of Meulan; Henry Fitzalwine, mayor of
London, 1213; Geffrey Mandevile, 1215; and many other. But to conclude
of this priory: King Henry VIII., minding to reward Sir Thomas Audley,
speaker of the parliament against Cardinal Wolsey, as ye may read in Hall,
sent for the prior, commending him for his hospitality, promised him
preferment, as a man worthy of a far greater dignity, which promise surely
he performed, and compounded with him, though in what sort I never
heard, so that the prior surrendered all that priory, with the appurtenances,
to the king, in the month of July, in the year 1531, the 23rd of the said
king’s reign. The canons were sent to other houses of the same order, and
the priory, with the appurtenances, King Henry gave to Sir Thomas Audley,
newly knighted, and after made lord chancellor.
Sir Thomas Audley offered the great church of this priory, with a ring of
nine bells well tuned (whereof four the greatest were since sold to the parish
of Stebunhith, and the five lesser to the parish of St. Stephen in Coleman
street) to the parishioners of St. Katherine Christ church, in exchange for
their small parish church, minding to have pulled it down, and to have built
there towards the street; but the parishioners having doubts in their heads of
after-claps, refused the offer. Then was the priory church and steeple
proffered to whomsoever would take it down, and carry it from the ground,
but no man would undertake the offer; whereupon Sir Thomas Audley was
fain to be at more charges than could be made of the stones, timber, lead,
iron, etc. For the workmen, with great labour, beginning at the top, loosed
stone from stone, and threw them down, whereby the most part of them
were broken, and few remained whole; and those were sold very cheap, for
all the buildings then made about the city were of brick and timber. At that
time any man in the city might have a cart-load of hard stone for paving
brought to his door for six pence or seven pence, with the carriage. The said
Thomas Lord Audley built and dwelt on this priory during his life, and died
there in the year 1544; since the which time the said priory came by
marriage of the Lord Audley’s daughter and heir unto Thomas, late Duke of
Norfolk, and was then called the Duke’s place.
The parish church of St. Katherine standeth in the cemetery of the late
dissolved priory of the Holy Trinity, and is therefore called St. Katherine
Christ church. This church seemeth to be very old; since the building

whereof the high street hath been so often raised by pavements, that now
men are fain to descend into the said church by divers steps, seven in
number. But the steeple, or bell-tower thereof, hath been lately built, to wit,
about the year 1504; for Sir John Percivall, merchant-tailor, then deceasing,
gave money towards the building thereof. There be the monuments of Sir
Thomas Fleming, knight of Rowles, in Essex, and Margaret his wife, 1464;
Roger Marshall, esquire; Jane Horne, wife to Roger Marshall; William
Multon, alias Burdeaux, herald; John Goad, esquire, and Joan his wife;
Beatrix, daughter to William Browne; Thomas Multon, esquire, son to
Burdeaux, herald; John Chitcroft, esquire; John Wakefielde, esquire;
William Criswicke; Anne and Sewch, daughters to Ralph Shirley, esquire;
Sir John Rainsford, knight of Essex; Sir Nicholas Throkmorton, chief butler
of England, one of the chamberlains of the exchequer, ambassador, etc.,
1570, and other.
At the north-west corner of this ward, in the said high street, standeth the
fair and beautiful parish church of St. Andrew the Apostle; with an addition,
to be known from other churches of that name, of the knape or undershaft;
and so called St. Andrew Undershaft, because that of old time, every year
on May-day in the morning, it was used, that an high or long shaft or May-
pole, was set up there, in the midst of the street, before the south side of the
said church; which shaft when it was set on end and fixed in the ground,
was higher than the church steeple. Geffrey Chaucer, writing of a vain
boaster, hath these words, meaning of the said shaft:

“Right well aloft, and high ye beare your heade,
The weather cocke, with flying, as ye would kill,
When ye be stuffed, bet of wine, then brede,
Then looke ye, when your wombe doth fill,
As ye would beare the great shaft of Cornehill,
Lord, so merrily crowdeth then your croke,
That all the streete may heare your body cloke.”

This shaft was not raised at any time since evil May-day (so called of an
insurrection made by apprentices and other young persons against aliens in
the year 1517); but the said shaft was laid along over the doors, and under
the pentises of one row of houses and alley gate, called of the shaft Shaft
alley (being of the possessions of Rochester bridge), in the ward of Lime

street. It was there, I say, hung on iron hooks many years, till the third of
King Edward VI., that one Sir Stephen, curate of St. Katherine Christ’s
church, preaching at Paules cross, said there that this shaft was made an
idol, by naming the church of St. Andrew with the addition of “under that
shaft:” he persuaded therefore that the names of churches might be altered;
also that the names of days in the week might be changed; the fish days to
be kept any days except Friday and Saturday, and the Lent any time, save
only betwixt Shrovetide and Easter. I have oft times seen this man,
forsaking the pulpit of his said parish church, preach out of a high elm-
tree[139] in the midst of the churchyard, and then entering the church,
forsaking the altar, to have sung his high mass in English upon a tomb of
the dead towards the north. I heard his sermon at Paules cross, and I saw the
effect that followed; for in the afternoon of that present Sunday, the
neighbours and tenants to the said bridge, over whose doors the said shaft
had lain, after they had well dined, to make themselves strong, gathered
more help, and with great labour raising the shaft from the hooks, whereon
it had rested two-and-thirty years, they sawed it in pieces, every man taking
for his share so much as had lain over his door and stall, the length of his
house; and they of the alley divided among them so much as had lain over
their alley gate. Thus was this idol (as he[140] termed it) mangled, and after
burned.
Soon after was there a commotion of the commons in Norfolk, Suffolk,
Essex, and other shires; by means whereof, straight orders being taken for
the suppression of rumours, divers persons were apprehended and executed
by martial law; amongst the which the bailiff of Romfort, in Essex, was
one, a man very well beloved: he was early in the morning of Mary
Magdalen’s day, then kept holiday, brought by the sheriffs of London and
the knight-marshal to the well within Aldgate, there to be executed upon a
gibbet set up that morning, where, being on the ladder, he had words to this
effect: “Good people, I am come hither to die, but know not for what
offence, except for words by me spoken yesternight to Sir Stephen, curate
and preacher of this parish, which were these: He asked me, ‘What news in
the country?’ I answered, ‘Heavy news.’ ‘Why?’ quoth he. ‘It is said,’ quoth
I, ‘that many men be up in Essex, but, thanks be to God, all is in good quiet
about us:’ and this was all, as God be my judge,” etc. Upon these words of
the prisoner, Sir Stephen, to avoid reproach of the people, left the city, and

was never heard of since amongst them to my knowledge. I heard the words
of the prisoner, for he was executed upon the pavement of my door where I
then kept house. Thus much by digression: now again to the parish church
of St. Andrew Undershaft, for it still retaineth the name, which hath been
new built by the parishioners there since the year 1520; every man putting
to his helping hand, some with their purses, other with their bodies. Steven
Gennings, merchant-tailor, sometime mayor of London, caused at his
charges to be built[141] the whole north side of the great middle aisle, both
of the body and choir, as appeareth by his arms over every pillar graven,
and also the north isle, which he roofed with timber and sealed; also the
whole south side of the church was glazed, and the pews in the south chapel
made of his costs, as appeareth in every window, and upon the said pews.
He deceased in the year 1524, and was buried in the Grey friars church.
John Kerkbie, merchant-tailor, sometime one of the sheriffs, John Garlande,
merchant-tailor, and Nicholas Levison, mercer, executor to Garlande, were
great benefactors to this work; which was finished to the glazing in the year
1529, and fully finished 1532. Buried in this church:[142] Philip Malpas, one
of the sheriffs, 1439; Sir Robert Dennie, knight, and after him Thomas
Dennie, his son, in the year 1421; Thomas Stokes, gentleman, grocer, 1496.
In the new church: John Nichell, merchant-tailor, 1537; William Draper,
esquire, 1537; Isabell and Margaret, his wives; Nicholas Levison, mercer,
one of the sheriffs, 1534; John Gerrarde, woolman, merchant of the staple,
1456; Henry Man, doctor of divinity, bishop of Man, 1550; Stephen Kyrton,
merchant-tailor, alderman, 1553; David Woodroffe, haberdasher, one of the
sheriffs, 1554; Stephen Woodroffe, his son, gave one hundred pounds in
money, for the which the poor of that parish receive two shillings in bread
weekly for ever; Sir Thomas Offley, merchant-tailor, mayor, 1556; he
bequeathed the one half of all his goods to charitable actions, but the parish
received little benefit thereby; Thomas Starkey, skinner, one of the sheriffs,
1578; Hugh Offley, leatherseller, one of the sheriffs, 1588; William
Hanbury, baker.
Now down St. Mary street, by the west end of the church towards the north,
stand divers fair houses for merchants and other; namely, one fair great
house, built by Sir William Pickering the father, possessed by Sir William
his son, and since by Sir Edward Wootton of Kent. North from this place is
the Fletchers’ hall, and so down to the corner of that street, over against

London wall, and against eastwards to a fair house lately new built, partly
by Master Robert Beale, one of the clerks of the council.
Then come you to the Papey, a proper house, wherein sometime was kept a
fraternity or brotherhood of St. Charity and St. John Evangelist, called the
Papey, for poor impotent priests (for in some language priests are called
papes), founded in the year 1430 by William Oliver, William Barnabie, and
John Stafford, chaplains or chantry priests in London, for a master, two
wardens, etc., chaplains, chantry priests, conducts, and other brethren and
sisters, that should be admitted into the church of St. Augustine Papey in the
wall. The brethren of this house becoming lame, or otherwise into great
poverty, were here relieved, as to have chambers, with certain allowance of
bread, drink, and coal, and one old man and his wife to see them served and
to keep the house clean. This brotherhood, among others, was suppressed in
the reign of Edward VI.; since the which time in this house hath been
lodged Master Moris of Essex; Sir Francis Walsingham, principal secretary
to her majesty; Master Barret of Essex, etc.
Then next is one great house, large of rooms, fair courts, and garden-plots;
sometimes pertaining to the Bassets, since that to the abbots of Bury in
Suffolk, and therefore called Buries markes, corruptly Bevis markes, and
since the dissolution of the abbey of Bury, to Thomas Henage the father,
and to Sir Thomas his son. Then next unto it is the before-spoken priory of
the Holy Trinity; to wit, the west and north part thereof, which stretcheth up
to Aldgate, where we first began.
Now in the second way from Aldgate, more toward the south from the well
or pump aforesaid, lieth Fenne church street; on the right hand whereof,
somewhat west from the south end of Belzetter’s lane is the Ironmongers’
hall; which company was incorporated in the 3rd of Edward IV. Richard
Fleming was their first master; Nicholas Marshall and Richard Cox were
custos, or wardens. And on the left hand, or south side, even by the gate and
wall of the city, runneth down a lane to the Tower hill; the south part
whereof is called Woodroffe lane, and out of this lane toward the west a
street called Hart street. In this street, at the south-east corner thereof,
sometime stood one house of Crouched (or crossed) friars, founded by
Ralph Hosiar and William Sabernes about the year 1298. Stephen, the tenth
prior of the Holy Trinity, in London granted there tenements for 13s. 8d. by
the year unto the said Ralph Hosiar and William Sabernes, who afterwards

became friars of St. Crosse; Adam was the first prior of that house. These
friars founded their house in place of certain tenements purchased of
Richard Wimbush, the twelfth prior of the Holy Trinity, in the year 1319,
which was confirmed by Edward III. the 17th of his reign, valued at £52
13s. 4d., surrendered the twelfth of November, the 30th of Henry VIII. In
this house was buried Master John Tirres; Nicholas, the son of William
Kyriell, esquire; Sir Thomas Mellington, baron of Wemesse, and Dame
Elizabeth his wife, daughter and heir of William Botelar, baron of Wome;
Robert Mellington, esquire, and Elizabeth his wife, daughter to Ferreis of
Ousley; Henry Lovell, son to William Lord Lovell; Dame Isabel, wife to
William Edwarde, mayor of London, 1471; William Narborough, and Dame
Elizabeth his wife; William Narborough, and Dame Beatrix his wife;
William Brosked, esquire; William Bowes; Lionel Mollington, esquire, son
of Robert Mollington; Nicholas Couderow, and Elizabeth his wife; Sir John
Stratford, knight; Sir Thomas Asseldy, knight, clerk of the crown, sub-
marshal of England, and justice of the shire of Middlesex; John Rest,
grocer, mayor of London, 1516; Sir John Skevington, knight, merchant-
tailor, sheriff, 1520; Sir John Milborne, draper, mayor in the year 1520, was
buried there, but removed since to St. Edmondes in Lombard street; Sir
Rice Grifith, beheaded on the Tower hill, 1531.
In place of this church is now a carpenters’ yard, a tennis court, and such
like; the friars’ hall was made a glass-house, or house wherein was made
glass of divers sorts to drink in; which house in the year 1575, on the 4th of
September, burst out into a terrible fire, where being practised all means
possible to quench, notwithstanding as the same house in a small time
before had consumed a great quantity of wood by making of glasses, now
itself having within it about forty thousand billets of wood, was all
consumed to the stone walls, which nevertheless greatly hindered the fire
from spreading any further.
Adjoining unto this friars’ church, by the east end thereof in Woodroffe lane
towards the Tower hill, are certain proper alms houses, fourteen in number,
built of brick and timber, founded by Sir John Milborne, draper, sometime
mayor, 1521, wherein he placed thirteen aged poor men and their wives, if
they have wives: these have their dwellings rent free, and 2s. 4d. the piece,
the first day of every month, for ever. One also is to have his house over the
gate, and 4s. every month: more, he appointed every Sunday for ever,

thirteen penny loaves of white bread, to be given in the parish church of St.
Edmonde in Lombard street, to thirteen poor people of that parish; and the
like thirteen loaves to be given in the parish church of St. Michael upon
Cornhill, and in either parish every year one load of chare coal, of thirty
sacks in the load; and this gift to be continued for ever: for performance
whereof, by the master and wardens of the drapers in London, he assured
unto them and their successors twenty-three messuages and tenements, and
eighteen garden-plots, in the parish of St. Olave in Hart street; with proviso,
that if they perform not those points[143] above-mentioned, the said
tenements and gardens to remain to the mayor and commonalty of the city
of London.
Next to these alms houses is the Lord Lumley’s house, built in the time of
King Henry VIII. by Sir Thomas Wiat the father, upon one plot of ground of
late pertaining to the foresaid Crossed friars, where part of their house
stood: and this is the farthest part of Aldgate ward towards the south, and
joineth to the Tower hill. The other side of that line, over against the Lord
Lumley’s house, on the wall side of the city, is now for the most part (or
altogether) built even to Aldgate.
Then have you on the south side of Fenchurch street, over against the well
or pump, amongst other fair and large built houses, one that sometime
belonged to the prior of Monte Joves, or Monastery Cornute, a cell to
Monte Joves beyond the seas, in Essex: it was the prior’s inn, when he
repaired to this city. Then a lane that leadeth down by Northumberland
house towards the Crossed friars, as is afore showed.
This Northumberland house, in the parish of St. Katherine Colman,
belonged to Henry Percie, Earl of Northumberland, in the 33rd of Henry
VI., but of late being left by the earls, the gardens thereof were made into
bowling alleys, and other parts into dicing houses, common to all comers
for their money, there to bowle and hazard; but now of late so many
bowling alleys, and other houses for unlawful gaming, hath been raised in
other parts of the city and suburbs, that this their ancient and only patron of
misrule, is left and forsaken of her gamesters, and therefore turned into a
number of great rents, small cottages, for strangers and others.
At the east end of this lane, in the way from Aldgate toward the Crossed
friars, of old time were certain tenements called the poor Jurie, of Jews

dwelling there.
Next unto this Northumberland house is the parish church of St. Katherine,
called Coleman; which addition of Coleman was taken of a great haw-yard,
or garden, of old time called Coleman haw, in the parish of the Trinity, now
called Christ’s church, and in the parish of St. Katherine and All Saints
called Coleman church.
Then have you Blanch Apleton; whereof I read, in the 13th of Edward I.,
that a lane behind the said Blanch Apleton was granted by the king to be
inclosed and shut up. This Blanch Apleton was a manor belonging to Sir
Thomas Roos of Hamelake, knight, the 7th of Richard II., standing at the
north-east corner of Mart lane, so called of a privilege sometime enjoined to
keep a mart there, long since discontinued, and therefore forgotten, so as
nothing remaineth for memory but the name of Mart lane, and that corruptly
termed Marke lane. I read that, in the third of Edward IV., all basket-
makers, wire-drawers, and other foreigners, were permitted to have shops in
this manor of Blanch Apleton, and not elsewhere, within this city or suburbs
thereof; and this also being the farthest west part of this ward on that south
side, I leave it, with three parish churches, St Katherine Christ church, St.
Andrew Undershaft, and St. Katherine Colemans; and three halls of
companies, the Bricklayers’ hall, the Fletchers’ hall, and the Ironmongers’
hall. It hath an alderman, his deputy, common councillors six, constables
six, scavengers nine, wardmote men for inquest eighteen, and a beadle. It is
taxed to the fifteen in London at five pounds.[144]

LIME STREET WARD
The next is Lime street ward, and taketh the name of Lime street of making
or selling of lime there (as is supposed); the east side of this Lime street,
from the north corner thereof to the midst, is of Aldgate ward, as is
aforesaid; the west side, for the most part from the said north corner,
southward, is of this Lime street ward; the south end on both sides is of
Langborne ward; the body of this Lime street ward is of the high street
called Cornehill street, which stretcheth from Lime street on the south side
to the west corner of Leaden hall, and on the north side from the south-west
corner of St. Mary street to another corner over against Leaden hall. Now
for St. Mary street; the west side thereof is of this Lime street ward, and
also the street which runneth by the north end of this St. Mary street, on
both sides, from thence west to an house called the Wrestlers, a sign so
called, almost to Bishopsgate. And these are the bounds of this small ward.
Monuments, or places notable, in this ward be these:—In Lime street are
divers fair houses for merchants and others; there was sometime a mansion-
house of the kings, called the King’s Artirce, whereof I find record in the
14th of Edward I., but now grown out of knowledge. I read also of another
great house in the west side of Lime street, having a chapel on the south and
a garden on the west, then belonging to the Lord Nevill, which garden is
now called the Green yard of the Leaden hall. This house, in the 9th of
Richard II., pertained to Sir Simon Burley, and Sir John Burley his brother;
and of late the said house was taken down, and the forefront thereof new
built of timber by Hugh Offley, alderman. At the north-west corner of Lime
street was of old time one great messuage called Benbrige’s inn; Ralph
Holland, draper, about the year 1452 gave it to John Gill, master, and to the
wardens and fraternity of tailors and linen-armourers of St. John Baptist in
London, and to their successors for ever. They did set up in place thereof a
fair large frame of timber, containing in the high street one great house, and
before it to the corner of Lime street three other tenements, the corner house
being the largest, and then down Lime street divers proper tenements; all

which the merchant-tailors, in the reign of Edward VI., sold to Stephen
Kirton, merchant-tailor and alderman: he gave, with his daughter Grisild, to
Nicholas Woodroffe the said great house, with two tenements before it, in
lieu of a hundred pounds, and made it up in money £366 13s. 4d. This
worshipful man, and the gentlewoman his widow after him, kept those
houses down Lime street in good reparations, never put out but one tenant,
took no fines, nor raised rents of them, which was ten shillings the piece
yearly: but whether that favour did overlive her funeral, the tenants now can
best declare the contrary.
Next unto this, on the high street, was the Lord Sowche’s messuage or
tenement, and other; in place whereof, Richard Wethell, merchant-tailor,
built a fair house, with a high tower, the second in number, and first of
timber, that ever I learnt to have been built to overlook neighbours in this
city.
This Richard, then a young man, became in a short time so tormented with
gouts in his joints, of the hands and legs, that he could neither feed himself
nor go further than he was led; much less was he able to climb and take the
pleasure of the height of his tower. Then is there another fair house, built by
Stephen Kirton, alderman; Alderman Lee doth now possess it, and again
new buildeth it.
Then is there a fair house of old time called the Green gate; by which name
one Michael Pistoy Lumbard held it, with a tenement and nine shops in the
reign of Richard II., who in the 15th of his reign gave it to Roger Crophull,
and Thomas Bromeflet, esquires, by the name of the Green gate, in the
parish of St. Andrew upon Cornhill, in Lime street ward; since the which
time Philip Malpas, sometime alderman, and one of the sheriffs, dwelt
therein, and was there robbed and spoiled of his goods to a great value by
Jack Cade, and other rebels, in the year 1449.
Afterwards, in the reign of Henry VII., it was seized into the king’s hands,
and then granted, first, unto John Alston, after that unto William de la
Rivers, and since by Henry VIII. to John Mutas, a Picarde or Frenchman,
who dwelt there, and harboured in his house many Frenchmen, that
kalendred wolsteds, and did other things contrary to the franchises of the
citizens; wherefore on evil May-day, which was in the year 1517, the
apprentices and other spoiled his house; and if they could have found

Mutas, they would have stricken off his head. Sir Peter Mutas, son to the
said John Mutas, sold this house to David Woodroffe, alderman, whose son,
Sir Nicholas Woodroffe, alderman, sold it over to John Moore, alderman,
that now possesseth it.
Next is a house called the Leaden porch, lately divided into two tenements;
whereof one is a tavern, and then one other house for a merchant, likewise
called the Leaden porch, but now turned to a cook’s house. Next is a fair
house and a large, wherein divers mayoralties have been kept, whereof
twain in my remembrance; to wit, Sir William Bowyar and Sir Henry
Huberthorne.
The next is Leaden hall, of which I read, that in the year 1309 it belonged to
Sir Hugh Nevill, knight, and that the Lady Alice his widow made a
feoffment thereof, by the name of Leaden hall, with the advowsons of the
church of St. Peter upon Cornhill, and other churches, to Richard, Earl of
Arundell and Surrey, 1362. More, in the year 1380, Alice Nevill, widow to
Sir John Nevill, knight, of Essex, confirmed to Thomas Gogshall and others
the said manor of Leaden hall, the advowsons, etc. In the year 1384,
Humfrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford, had the said manor. And in the year
1408, Robert Rikeden, of Essex, and Margaret his wife, confirmed to
Richard Whittington, and other citizens of London, the said manor of
Leaden hall, with the appurtenances, the advowsons of St. Peter’s church,
St. Margaret’s Pattens, etc. And in the year 1411, the said Whittington and
other confirmed the same to the mayor and commonalty of London,
whereby it came to the possession of the city. Then in the year 1443, the
21st of Henry VI., John Hatherley, mayor, purchased license of the said
king to take up two hundred fother of lead, for the building of water
conduits, a common granary, and the cross in West Cheape, more richly, for
the honour of the city. In the year next following, the parson and parish of
St. Dunston, in the east of London, seeing the famous and mighty man (for
the words be in the grant, cum nobilis et potens vir), Simon Eyre, citizen of
London, among other his works of piety, effectually determined to erect and
build a certain granary upon the soil of the same city at Leaden hall, of his
own charges, for the common utility of the said city, to the amplifying and
enlarging of the said granary, granted to Henry Frowicke, then mayor, the
aldermen and commonalty, and their successors for ever, all their
tenements, with the appurtenances, sometime called the Horsemill, in

Grasse street, for the annual rent of four pounds, etc. Also, certain
evidences of an alley and tenements pertaining to the Horsemill adjoining to
the said Leaden hall in Grasse street, given by William Kingstone,
fishmonger, unto the parish church of St. Peter upon Cornehill, do specify
the said granary to be built by the said honourable and famous merchant,
Simon Eyre, sometime an upholsterer, and then a draper, in the year 1419.
He built it of squared stone, in form as now it showeth, with a fair and large
chapel in the east side of the quadrant, over the porch of which he caused to
be written, Dextra Domini exaltavit me (The Lord’s right hand exalted me).
Within the said church, on the north wall, was written. Honorandus famosus
mercator Simon Eyre hujus operis, etc. In English thus:—“The honourable
and famous merchant, Simon Eyre, founder of this work, once mayor of this
city, citizen and draper of the same, departed out of this life, the 18th day of
September, the year from the Incarnation of Christ 1459, and the 38th year
of the reign of King Henry VI.” He was buried in the parish church of St.
Mary Woolnoth, in Lombard street: he gave by his testament, which I have
read, to be distributed to all prisons in London, or within a mile of that city,
somewhat to relieve them. More, he gave two thousand marks, upon a
condition, which not performed, was then to be distributed to maids’
marriages, and other deeds of charity; he also gave three thousand marks to
the drapers, upon condition they should, within one year after his decease,
establish perpetually a master or warden, five secular priests, six clerks, and
two choristers, to sing daily Divine service by note for ever, in his chapel of
the Leaden hall; also,[145] one master, with an usher, for grammar, one
master for writing, and the third for song, with housing there newly built for
them for ever; the master to have for his salary ten pounds, and every other
priest eight pounds, every other clerk five pounds six shillings and eight
pence, and every other chorister five marks; and if the drapers refused this
to do, within one year after his decease, then the three thousand marks to
remain to the prior and convent of Christ’s church in London, with
condition to establish, as is aforesaid, within two years after his decease;
and if they refused, then the three thousand marks to be disposed by his
executors, as they best could devise, in works of charity. Thus much for his
testament, not performed by establishing of Divine service in his chapel, or
free schools for scholars; neither how the stock of three thousand marks, or
rather five thousand marks, was employed by his executors, could I ever
learn. He left issue, Thomas, who had issue, Thomas, etc. True it is, that in

one year, 1464, the 3rd of Edward IV., it was agreed by the mayor,
aldermen, and commonalty of London, that notwithstanding the king’s
letters patent, lately before granted unto them, touching the tronage or
weighing of wares to be holden at the Leaden hall, yet suit should be made
to the king for new letters patent to be granted to the mayor of the staple for
the tronage of wools to be holden there, and order to be taken by the
discretion of Thomas Cooke, then mayor, the counsel of the city, Geffrey
Filding, then mayor of the staple at Westminster, and of the king’s council,
what should be paid to the mayor and aldermen of the city, for the laying
and housing of the wools there, that so they might be brought forth and
weighed, etc.
Touching the chapel there, I find, that in the year 1466, by license obtained
of King Edward IV., in the 6th of his reign, a fraternity of the Trinity, of
sixty priests, besides other brethren and sisters, in the same chapel, was
founded by William Rouse, John Risbie, and Thomas Ashby priests, some
of the which sixty priests, every market-day in the forenoon, did celebrate
Divine service there to such market-people as repaired to prayer; and once
every year they met all together and had solemn service, with procession of
the brethren and sisters. This foundation was in the year 1512, by a
common council, confirmed to the sixty Trinity priests, and to their
successors, at the will of the mayor and commonalty.
In the year 1484, a great fire happened upon this Leaden hall, by what
casualty I know not, but much housing was there destroyed, with all the
stocks for guns, and other provision belonging to the city, which was a great
loss, and no less charge to be repaired by them.
In the year 1503, the 18th of Henry VII., a request was made by the
commons of the city, concerning the usage of the said Leaden hall, in form
as followeth:—“Please it, the lord mayor, and common council, to enact,
that all Frenchmen bringing canvass, linen cloth, and other wares to be sold,
and all foreigners bringing wolsteds, sayes, staimus, coverings, nails, iron
work, or any other wares, and also all manner of foreigners bringing lead to
the city to be sold, shall bring all such their wares aforesaid to the open
market of the Leaden hall, there and no where else to be sold and uttered,
like as of old time it hath been used, upon pain of forfeiture of all the said
wares showed or sold in any other place than aforesaid; the show of the said
wares to be made three days in the week, that is to say, Monday, Tuesday,

and Wednesday; it is also thought reasonable that the common beam be kept
from henceforth in the Leaden hall, and the farmer to pay therefore
reasonable rent to the chamber; for better it is that the chamber have
advantage thereby than a foreign person; and also the said Leaden hall,
which is more chargeable now by half than profitable, shall better bear out
the charges thereof; also the common beam for wool at Leaden hall, may
yearly pay a rent to the chamber of London, toward supportation and
charges of the same place; for reason it is, that a common office, occupied
upon a common ground, bear a charge to the use of the commonalty; also,
that foreigners bringing wools, felts, or any other merchandises or wares to
Leaden hall, to be kept there for the sale and market, may pay more largely
for the keeping of their goods than free men.” Thus much for the request of
the commons at this time.
Now to set down some proof that the said hall hath been employed and used
as a granary for corn and grain (as the same was first appointed), leaving all
former examples, this one may suffice: Roger Achley, mayor of London in
the year 1512, the 3rd of Henry VIII., when the said mayor entered the
mayoralty, there was not found one hundred quarters of wheat in all the
garners of the city, either within the liberties, or near adjoining; through the
which scarcity, when the carts of Stratford came laden with bread to the city
(as they had been accustomed) there was such press about them, that one
man was ready to destroy another, in striving to be served for their money.
But this scarcity did not last long; for the mayor in short time made such
provision of wheat, that the bakers, both of London and Stratford, were
weary of taking it up, and were forced to take up much more than they
would, and for the rest the mayor laid out the money, and stored it up in
Leaden hall, and other garners of the city. This mayor also kept the market
so well, that he would be at the Leaden hall by four o’clock in the summer’s
mornings; and from thence he went to other markets, to the great comfort of
the citizens.
I read also that in the year 1528, the 20th of Henry VIII., surveyors were
appointed to view the garners of the city, namely, the Bridgehouse and the
Leaden hall, how they were stored of grain for the service of the city. And
because I have here before spoken of the bread carts coming from Stratford
at the Bow, ye shall understand that of old time the bakers of bread at
Stratford were allowed to bring daily (except the Sabbath and principal

feasts) divers long carts laden with bread, the same being two ounces in the
penny wheat loaf heavier than the penny wheat loaf baked in the city, the
same to be sold in Cheape, three or four carts standing there, between
Gutheron’s lane and Fauster’s lane end, one cart on Cornhill, by the
conduit, and one other in Grasse street. And I have read, that in the 4th year
of Edward II., Richard Reffeham being mayor, a baker named John of
Stratforde, for making bread less than the assize, was with a fool’s hood on
his head, and loaves of bread about his neck, drawn on a hurdle through the
streets of this city. Moreover, in the 44th of Edward III., John Chichester
being mayor of London, I read in the Visions of Pierce Plowman, a book so
called, as followeth:

“At Londone, I leve,
Liketh wel my wafres;
And louren whan thei lakken hem.
It is noght longe y passed,
There was a careful commune,
Whan no cart com to towne
With breed fro Stratforde;
Tho gonnen beggaris wepe,
And werkmen were agast a lite;
This wole be thought longe.
In the date of oure Drighte,
In a drye Aprill,
A thousand and thre hundred
Twies twenty and ten,
My wafres there were gesene
Whan Chichestre was maire.”[146]

I read also in the 20th of Henry VIII., Sir James Spencer being mayor, six
bakers of Stratford were amerced in the Guildhall of London, for baking
under the size appointed. These bakers of Stratford left serving of this city, I
know not upon what occasion, about thirty years since.
In the year 1519 a petition was exhibited by the commons to the common
council, and was by them allowed, concerning the Leaden hall, how they
would have it used, viz. “Meekly beseeching, showeth unto your good
lordship and masterships, divers citizens of this city, which under correction

think, that the great place called the Leaden hall should, nor ought not to be
letten to farm to any person or persons, and in especial to any fellowship or
company incorporate, to have and hold the same hall for term of years, for
such inconveniences as thereby may ensue, and come to the hurt of the
common weal of the said city in time to come, as somewhat more largely
may appear in the articles following.
“First, If any assembly or hasty gathering of the commons of the said city,
for suppressing or subduing of misruled people within the said city,
hereafter shall happen to be called or commanded by the mayor, aldermen,
and other governors and councillors of the said city for the time being, there
is none so convenient, meet, and necessary a place, to assemble them in,
within the said city, as the said Leaden hall, both for largeness of room, and
their sure defence in time of their counselling together about the premises.
Also, in that place hath been used the artillery, guns, and other armours of
the said city, to be safely kept in a readiness for the safeguard, wealth, and
defence of the said city, to be had and occupied at times when need
required. As also the store of timber for the necessary reparations of the
tenements belonging to the chamber of the said city, there commonly hath
been kept. Item, If any triumph or nobleness were to be done, or shown by
the commonalty of the city, for the honour of our sovereign lord the king
and realm, and for the worship of the said city, the said Leaden hall is most
meet and convenient place to prepare and order the said triumph therein,
and from thence to issue forth to the places therefore appointed. Item, at any
largess or dole of any money made unto the poor people of this city, it hath
been used to be done and given in the said Leaden hall, for that the said
place is most meet therefore. Item, the honourable father, that was maker of
the said hall, had a special will, intent, and mind, that (as it is commonly
said) the market men and women that came to the city with victuals and
other things, should have their free standing within the said Leaden hall in
wet weather, to keep themselves and their wares dry, and thereby to
encourage them, and all other, to have the better will and desire the more
plenteously to resort to the said city, to victual the same. And if the said hall
should be letten to farm, the will of the said honourable father should never
be fulfilled nor take effect. Item, if the said place, which is the chief
fortress, and most necessary place within all the city, for the tuition and
safeguard of the same, should be letten to farm out of the hands of the chief
heads of the same city, and especially to another body politic, it might at

length by likelihood be occasion of discord and debate between the said
bodies politic, which God defend.
“For these and many other great and reasonable causes, which hereafter
shall be showed to this honourable court, your said beseechers think it much
necessary that the said hall be still in the hands of this city, and to be surely
kept by sad and discreet officers, in such wise, that it may alway be ready to
be used and occupied for the common weal of the said city when need shall
require, and in no wise to be letten to any body politic.”
Thus much for the petition.
About the year 1534, great means were made about the Leaden hall to have
the same made a burse, for the assembly of merchants, as they had been
accustomed in Lombard street; many common councils were called to that
end: but in the year 1535, John Champneys being mayor, it was fully
concluded that the burse should remain in Lombard street as afore, and
Leaden hall no more to be spoken of concerning that matter.
The use of Leaden hall in my youth was thus:,—In a part of the north
quadrant, on the east side of the north gate, were the common beams for
weighing of wool and other wares, as had been accustomed; on the west
side the gate were the scales to weight meal; the other three sides were
reserved for the most part to the making and resting of the pageants showed
at Midsummer in the watch; the remnant of the sides and quadrant was
employed for the stowage of wool sacks, but not closed up; the lofts above
were partly used by the painters in working for the decking of pageants and
other devices, for beautifying of the watch and watchmen; the residue of the
lofts were letten out to merchants, the wool winders and packers therein to
wind and pack their wools. And thus much for Leaden hall may suffice.
Now on the north of Lime street ward in the high street are divers fair
houses for merchants, and proper tenements for artificers, with an alley also
called Shaft alley, of the shaft or May-pole sometime resting over the gate
thereof, as I have declared in Aldgate ward. In the year 1576, partly at the
charges of the parish of St. Andrew, and partly at the charges of the
chamber of London, a water-pump was raised in Lime street ward, near
unto Lime street corner; for the placing of the which pump, having broken
up the ground, they were forced to dig more than two fathom deep[147]
before they came to any main ground, where they found a hearth made of

Britain, or rather Roman tile[148] every tile half a yard square, and about two
inches thick; they found coal lying there also (for that lying whole will
never consume); then digging one fathom into the main, they found water
sufficient, made their prall, and set up the pump; which pump, with oft
repairing and great charges to the parish, continued not four-and-twenty
years, but being rotted, was taken up and a new set in place in the year
1600. Thus much for the high street.
In St. Marie street had ye of old time a parish church of St. Marie the
Virgin, St. Ursula, and the eleven thousand Virgins, which church was
commonly called St. Marie at the Axe, of the sign of an axe, over against
the east end thereof, or St. Marie Pellipar, of a plot of ground lying on the
north side thereof, pertaining to the Skinners in London. This parish, about
the year 1565, was united to the parish church of St. Andrew Undershaft,
and so was St. Mary at the Axe suppressed and letten out to be a warehouse
for a merchant. Against the east end of this church was sometime a fair
wall, now turned to a pump. Also against the north end of this St. Mary
street, was sometime one other parish church of St. Augustine, called St.
Augustine in the Wall, for that it stood adjoining to the wall of the city, and
otherwise called St. Augustin’s Papey, or the poor, as I have read in the
reign of Edward III. About the year 1430, in the reign of Henry VI., the
same church was allowed to the brethren of the Papey, the house of poor
priests, whereof I have spoken in Aldgate ward. The parishioners of this
church were appointed to the parish church of Allhallows in the wall, which
is in Broad street ward, this brotherhood called Papey, being suppressed, the
church of St Augustin was pulled down, and in place thereof one Grey an
apothecary built a stable, hay-loft, etc. It is now a dwelling-house.[149]
Those two parish churches, both lying in the ward of Lime street, being thus
suppressed, there is not any one parish church or place for Divine service in
that ward, but the inhabitants thereof repair to St. Peter in Cornhill ward, St.
Andrew in Aldgate ward, Alhallows in the wall in Broad street ward, and
some to St. Denis in Langborne ward.
Now because of late there hath been some question, to what ward this
church of St. Augustine Papey should of right belong, for the same hath
been challenged by them of Aldgate ward, and without reason taken into
Bishopsgate ward from Lime street ward, I am somewhat to touch it. About
thirty years since the chamber of London granted a lease of ground, in these

words: “lying near London wall in the ward of Lime street, from the west of
the said church or chapel of St. Augustine Papey towards Bishopsgate,” etc.
On the which plot of ground the lease built three fair tenements, and placed
tenants there; these were charged to bear scot and lot, and some of them to
bear office in Lime street ward; all which they did willingly without
grudging. And when any suspected or disordered persons were by the
landlord placed there, the officers of Lime street ward fetched them out of
their houses, committed them to ward, procured their due punishments, and
banished them from thence; whereby in short time that place was reformed,
and brought into good order; which thing being noted by them of Aldgate
ward, they moved their alderman, Sir Thomas Offley, to call in those houses
to be of his ward; but I myself showing a fair ledger book, sometimes
pertaining to the late dissolved priory of the Holy Trinity whithin Aldgate,
wherein were set down the just bounds of Aldgate ward, before Sir Thomas
Offley, Sir Rowland Heyward, the common council, and wardmote inquest
of the same Lime street ward, Sir Thomas Offley gave over his challenge,
and so that matter rested in good quiet until the year 1579, that Sir Richard
Pype being mayor, and alderman of Bishopsgate ward, challenged those
houses to be of his ward, whereunto (without reason showed) Sir Rowland
Heyward yielded. And thus is that side of the street, from the north corner
of St. Mary street almost to Bishopsgate, wherein is one plot of ground,
letten by the chamberlain of London to the parish of St. Martin’s Oteswich,
to be a churchyard or burying place for the dead of that parish, etc., unjustly
drawn and withholden from the ward of Lime street. Divers other proofs I
could set down, but this one following may suffice.—The mayor and
aldermen of London made a grant to the fraternity of Papie in these words:
“Be it remembered, that where now of late the master and wardens of the
fraternity of the Papie have made a brick wall, closing in the chapel of St.
Augustine called Papie chapel, situate in the parish of All Saints in the Wall,
in the ward of Lime street, of the city of London; from the south-east corner
of the which brick wall is a scutcheon of twenty-one feet of assize from the
said corner eastward. And from the same scutcheon there to a messuage of
fifty-five feet and a half westward, the said scutcheon breaketh out of line
right southward betwixt the measures aforesaid three feet and five inches of
assize, upon the common ground of the said city aforesaid, Ralph Verney,
mayor, and the aldermen of the same city, the 22nd day of October, the 6th
year of Edward IV., granted to John Hod, priest, and to Master John Bolte,

and Thomas Pachet, priests, wardens of the fraternity of Papie aforesaid,
and to their successors for ever, etc., yielding four pence sterling yearly at
Michaelmas.” And this is, saith my book,[150] enrolled in the Guild hall of
London; which is a sufficient proof the same plot of ground to be of Lime
street ward, and never otherwise accounted or challenged.
On the south side of this street, stretching west from St. Mary street towards
Bishopsgate street, there was of old time one large messuage built of stone
and timber, in the parish of St. Augustine in the Wall, now the parish of
Allhallows in the same wall, belonging to the Earl of Oxford, for Richard
de Vere, Earl of Oxford, possessed it in the 4th of Henry V.; but in process
of time the lands of the earl fell to females, amongst the which, one being
married to Wingfielde of Suffolke, this house with the appurtenances fell to
his lot, and was by his heir, Sir Robert Wingfield, sold to Master Edward
Coke, at this time the queen’s attorney-general. This house being greatly
ruinated of late time, for the most part hath been letten out to poulterers, for
stabling of horses and stowage of poultry, but now lately new built into a
number of small tenements, letten out to strangers, and other mean people.
One note more of this ward, and so an end. I find of record, that in the year
1371, the 45th of Edward III., a great subsidy of one hundred thousand
pounds was granted towards the king’s wars in France, whereof the clergy
paid fifty thousand pounds, and the laity fifty thousand pounds, to be levied
to thirty-nine shires of England, containing parishes eight thousand six
hundred, of every parish five pounds sixteen shillings, the greater to help
the lesser. This city, as one of the shires, then containing twenty-four wards,
and in them one hundred and ten parishes, was therefore assessed to six
hundred and thirty-five pounds twelve shillings, whereof Lime street ward
did bear thirty-four shillings and no more, so small a ward it was, and so
accounted, as having no one whole parish therein, but small portions only
of two parishes in that ward. This ward hath an alderman, his deputy,
common councillors four, constables four, scavengers two, wardmote
inquest sixteen, and a beadle; and is taxed to the fifteenth at one pound
nineteen shillings and two pence three farthings.

BISHOPSGATE WARD
The next is Bishopsgate ward; whereof a part is without the gate and of the
suburbs, from the bars by St. Mary Spittle to Bishopsgate, and a part of
Houndsditch; almost half thereof, also without the wall, is of the same
ward. Then within the gate is Bishopsgate street, so called of the gate, to a
pump, where sometimes was a fair well, with two buckets, by the east end
of the parish church of St. Martin Oteswich, and then winding by the west
corner of Leaden hall down Grass street to the corner over against Grass
church; and this is the bounds of that ward.
Monuments most to be noted are these: The parish church of St. Buttolph
without Bishopsgate, in a fair churchyard, adjoining to the town ditch, upon
the very bank thereof, but of old time inclosed with a comely wall of brick,
lately repaired by Sir William Allen, mayor, in the year 1571, because he
was born in that parish, where also he was buried. An anchoress received
40s. the year of the sheriffs of London.
Now without this churchyard wall is a causeye, leading to a quadrant, called
Petty France, of Frenchmen dwelling there, and to other dwelling-houses,
lately built on the bank of the said ditch by some citizens of London, that
more regarded their own private gain than the common good of the city; for
by means of this causeye raised on the bank, and soilage of houses, with
other filthiness cast into the ditch, the same is now forced to a narrow
channel, and almost filled up with unsavoury things, to the danger of
impoisoning the whole city.
Next unto the parish church of St. Buttolph is a fair inn for receipt of
travellers; then an hospital of St. Mary of Bethelem, founded by Simon Fitz
Mary, one of the sheriffs of London, in the year 1246: he founded it to have
been a priory of canons, with brethren and sisters; and King Edward III.
granted a protection, which I have seen, for the brethren, Miliciæ beatæ
Mariæ de Bethlem, within the city of London, the 14th year of his reign. It
was an hospital for distracted people: Stephen Geninges, merchant-tailor,
gave £40 towards purchase of the patronage by his testament, 1523; the

mayor and commonalty purchased the patronage thereof, with all the lands
and tenements thereunto belonging, in the year 1546: the same year King
Henry VIII. gave this hospital unto the city; the church and chapel whereof
were taken down in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and houses built there by
the governors of Christ’s hospital in London. In this place people that be
distraight in wits are, by the suit of their friends, received and kept as afore,
but not without charges to their bringers in. In the year 1569, Sir Thomas
Roe, merchant-tailor, mayor, caused to be inclosed with a wall of brick
about one acre of ground, being part of the said hospital of Bethelem; to
wit, on the west, on the bank of Deep Ditch, so called, parting the said
hospital of Bethelem from the More field: this he did for burial and ease of
such parishes in London as wanted ground convenient within their parishes.
The lady his wife was there buried (by whose persuasion he inclosed it), but
himself, born in London, was buried in the parish church of Hackney.
From this hospital northward, upon the street’s side, many houses have been
built with alleys backward, of late time too much pestered with people (a
great cause of infection) up to the bars.
The other side of this high street from Bishopsgate and Hounds ditch, the
first building a large inn for receipt of travellers, and is called the Dolphin,
of such a sign. In the year 1513, Margaret Ricroft, widow, gave this house,
with the gardens and appurtenances, unto William Gam, R. Clye, their
wives, her daughters, and to their heirs, with condition they yearly do give
to the warden or governors of the Grey friers church within Newgate forty
shillings, to find a student of divinity in the University for ever. Then is
there a fair house, of late built by John Powlet. Next to that, a far more large
and beautiful house, with gardens of pleasure, bowling alleys, and such like,
built by Jasper Fisher, free of the goldsmiths, late one of the six clerks of
the chauncerie and a justice of the peace. It hath since for a time been the
Earl of Oxford’s place. The queen’s majesty Elizabeth hath lodged there. It
now belongeth to Sir Roger Manars.[151] This house, being so large and
sumptuously built by a man of no greater calling, possessions, or wealth
(for he was indebted to many) was mockingly called Fisher’s folly, and a
rhythm was made of it, and other the like, in this manner:

“Kirkebyes Castell, and Fishers Follie,
Spinilas pleasure, and Megses glorie.”

And so of other like buildings about the city by citizens, men have not
letted to speak their pleasure.
From Fisher’s Folly up to the west end of Berward’s lane, of old time so
called, but now Hogge lane, because it meeteth with Hogge lane, which
cometh from the bars without Aldgate, as is afore showed, is a continual
building of tenements, with alleys of cottages, pestered, etc. Then is there a
large close, called Tasel close, sometime for that there were tassels planted
for the use of cloth-workers, since letten to the cross-bow makers, wherein
they used to shoot for games at the popinjay: now the same being inclosed
with a brick wall, serveth to be an artillery yard, whereunto the gunners of
the Tower do weekly repair, namely, every Thursday; and there levelling
certain brass pieces of great artillery against a butt of earth, made for that
purpose, they discharge them for their exercise.
Then have you the late dissolved priory and hospital,[152] commonly called
St. Mary Spittle, founded by Walter Brune and Rosia his wife, for canons
regular. Walter, archdeacon of London, laid the first stone in the year 1197,
William, of St. Mary church, then bishop of London, dedicated to the
honour of Jesus Christ and his mother, the perpetual Virgin Mary, by the
name of Domus Dei, and Beatæ Mariæ, extra Bishopsgate, in the parish of
St. Buttolph; the bounds whereof, as appeareth by composition betwixt the
parson and prior of the said hospital concerning tithes, beginneth at
Berward’s lane toward the south, and extendeth in breadth to the parish of
St. Leonard of Shoreditch towards the north; and in length, from the King’s
street on the west to the bishop of London’s field, called Lollesworth, on the
east. The prior of this St. Mary Spittle, for the emortising and propriation of
Bikenacar, in Essex, to his said house of St. Mary Spittle, gave to Henry
VII. £400 in the 22nd of his reign. This hospital, surrendered to Henry
VIII., was valued to dispend £478; wherein was found, besides ornaments
of the church, and other goods pertaining to the hospital, one hundred and
eighty beds, well furnished, for receipt of the poor; for it was an hospital of
great relief. Sir Henry Plesington, knight, was buried there 1452.

In place of this hospital, and near adjoining, are now many fair houses built
for receipt and lodging of worshipful persons. A part of the large
churchyard pertaining to this hospital, and severed from the rest with a
brick wall, yet remaineth as of old time, with a pulpit cross therein,
somewhat like to that in Paules churchyard. And against the said pulpit on
the south side, before the charnel and chapel of St. Edmond the Bishop and
Mary Magdalen, which chapel was founded about the year 1391 by William
Eneshan, citizen and paperer of London, who was there buried, remaineth
also one fair built house, of two stories in height, for the mayor and other
honourable persons, with the aldermen and sheriffs to sit in, there to hear
the sermons preached in the Easter holidays. In the loft over them stood the
bishop of London, and other prelates; now the ladies and aldermen’s wives
do there stand at a fair window, or sit at their pleasure. And here is to be
noted, that, time out of mind, it hath been a laudable custom, that on Good
Friday, in the afternoon, some especial learned man, by appointment of the
prelates, hath preached a sermon at Paules cross, treating of Christ’s
Passion; and upon the three next Easter holidays, Monday, Tuesday, and
Wednesday, the like learned men, by the like appointment, have used to
preach on the forenoons at the said Spittle, to persuade the article of
Christ’s Resurrection; and then on Low Sunday, one other learned man at
Paules cross, to make rehearsal of those four former sermons, either
commending or reproving them, as to him by judgment of the learned
divines was thought convenient. And that done, he was to make a sermon of
his own study, which in all were five sermons in one. At these sermons, so
severally preached, the mayor, with his brethren the aldermen, were
accustomed to be present in their violets at Paules on Good Friday, and in
their scarlets at the Spittle in the holidays, except Wednesday in violet, and
the mayor with his brethren on Low Sunday in scarlet, at Paules cross,
continued until this day.
Touching the antiquity of this custom, I find, that in the year 1398, King
Richard having procured from Rome confirmation of such statutes and
ordinances as were made in the parliament, begun at Westminster and ended
at Shrewsbury, he caused the same confirmation to be read and pronounced
at Paules cross, and at St. Mary Spittle, in the sermons before all the people.
Philip Malpas, one of the sheriffs in the year 1439, gave twenty shillings by
the year to the three preachers at the Spittle. Stephen Forster, mayor in the
year 1454, gave forty pounds to the preachers at Paules cross and Spittle. I

find also that the aforesaid house, wherein the mayor and aldermen do sit at
the Spittle, was built for that purpose of the goods and by the executors of
Richard Lawson, alderman, and Isabell his wife, in the year 1488. In the
year 1594, this pulpit being old was taken down, and a new set up; the
preacher’s face turned towards the south, which was before toward the
west; also a large house, on the east side of the said pulpit, was then built
for the governors and children of Christ’s hospital to sit in, and this was
done of the goods of William Elkens, alderman, late deceased; but within
the first year the same house decaying, and like to have fallen, was again
with great cost repaired at the city’s charge.
On the east side of this churchyard lieth a large field, of old time called
Lolesworth, now Spittle field; which about the year 1576 was broken up for
clay to make brick; in the digging whereof many earthen pots, called urnæ,
were found full of ashes, and burnt bones of men, to wit, of the Romans that
inhabited here; for it was the custom of the Romans to burn their dead, to
put their ashes in an urn, and then bury the same, with certain ceremonies,
in some field appointed for that purpose near unto their city. Every of these
pots had in them with the ashes of the dead one piece of copper money,
with the inscription of the emperor then reigning: some of them were of
Claudius, some of Vespasian, some of Nero, of Anthoninus Pius, of
Trajanus, and others. Besides those urns, many other pots were there found,
made of a white earth with long necks and handles, like to our stone jugs:
these were empty, but seemed to be buried full of some liquid matter long
since consumed and soked through; for there were found divers phials and
other fashioned glasses, some most cunningly wrought, such as I have not
seen the like, and some of crystal; all which had water in them, nothing
differing in clearness, taste, or savour from common spring water,
whatsoever it was at the first: some of these glasses had oil in them very
thick, and earthy in savour; some were supposed to have balm in them, but
had lost the virtue; many of those pots and glasses were broken in cutting of
the clay, so that few were taken up whole. There were also found divers
dishes and cups of a fine red-coloured earth, which showed outwardly such
a shining smoothness as if they had been of coral; those had in the bottoms
Roman letters printed: there were also lamps of white earth and red,
artificially wrought with divers antiques about them, some three or four
images made of white earth, about a span long each of them: one I
remember was of Pallas, the rest I have forgotten. I myself have reserved,

among divers of those antiquities there, one urn, with the ashes and bones,
and one pot of white earth very small, not exceeding the quantity of a
quarter of a wine pint, made in shape of a hare squatted upon her legs, and
between her ears is the mouth of the pot. There hath also been found in the
same field divers coffins of stone, containing the bones of men: these I
suppose to be the burials of some especial persons in time of the Britons or
Saxons, after that the Romans had left to govern here. Moreover, there were
also found the skulls and bones of men without coffins, or rather whose
coffins (being of great timber) were consumed. Divers great nails of iron
were there found, such as are used in the wheels of shod carts, being each of
them as big as a man’s finger, and a quarter of a yard long, the heads two
inches over; those nails were more wondered at than the rest of things there
found, and many opinions of men were there uttered of them; namely, that
the men there buried were murdered by driving those nails into their heads;
a thing unlikely, for a smaller nail would more aptly serve to so bad a
purpose, and a more secret place would likely be employed for their burial.
But to set down what I have observed concerning this matter, I there beheld
the bones of a man lying (as I noted), the head north, the feet south, and
round about him, as thwart his head, along both his sides, and thwart his
feet, such nails were found, wherefore I conceived them to be the nails of
his coffin, which had been a trough cut out of some great tree, and the same
covered with a plank, of a great thickness, fastened with such nails; and
therefore I caused some of the nails to be reached up to me, and found
under the broad heads of them the old wood, skant turned into earth, but
still retaining both the grain and proper colour: of these nails, with the wood
under the head thereof, I reserved one, as also the nether jaw-bone of the
man, the teeth being great, sound, and fast fixed, which, among other many
monuments there found, I have yet to show; but the nail lying dry, is by
scaling greatly wasted. And thus much for this part of Bishopsgate ward,
without the gate; for I have in another place spoken of the gate, and
therefore I am to speak of that other part of this ward which lieth within the
gate.
And first to begin on the left hand of Bishopsgate street, from the gate you
have certain tenements of old time pertaining to a brotherhood of St.
Nicholas, granted to the parish clerks of London, for two chaplains, to be
kept in the chapel of St. Mary Magdalen, near unto the Guildhall of
London, in the 27th of Henry VI. The first of these houses towards the

north, and against the wall of the city, was sometime a large inn or court
called the Wrestlers, of such a sign, and the last in the high street towards
the south was sometime also a fair inn called the Angel, of such a sign.
Among these said tenements was on the same street side a fair entry, or
court, to the common hall of the said parish clerks, with proper alms
houses, seven in number, adjoining, for poor parish clerks, and their wives
and their widows, such as were in great years not able to labour. One of
these, by the said brotherhood of parish clerks, was allowed sixteen pence
the week; the other six had each of them nine pence the week, according to
the patent thereof granted. This brotherhood, amongst other, being
suppressed, in the reign of Edward VI. the said hall, with the other buildings
there, was given to Sir Robert Chester, a knight of Cambridgeshire; against
whom the parish clerks commencing suit, in the reign of Queen Mary, and
being like to have prevailed, the said Sir Robert Chester pulled down the
hall, sold the timber, stone, and lead, and thereupon the suit was ended. The
alms houses remain in the queen’s hands, and people are there placed, such
as can make best friends; some of them, taking the pension appointed, have
let forth their houses for great rent, giving occasion to the parson of the
parish to challenge tithes of the poor, etc.
Next unto this is the small parish church of St. Ethelburge Virgin, and from
thence some small distance is a large court called Little St. Helen’s, because
it pertained to the nuns of St. Helen’s, and was their house: there are seven
alms rooms or houses for the poor, belonging to the company of
Leathersellers. Then, somewhat more west, is another court with a winding
lane, which cometh out against the west end of St. Andrew Undershaft
church. In this court standeth the church of St. Helen, sometime a priory of
black nuns, and in the same a parish church of St. Helen.
This priory was founded before the reign of Henry III. William Basing,
dean of Paules, was the first founder, and was there buried; and William
Basing, one of the sheriffs of London, in the 2nd year of Edward II. was
holden also to be a founder, or rather a helper there. This priory being
valued at £314 2s. 6d. was surrendered the 25th of November, the 30th of
Henry VIII.; the whole church, the partition betwixt the nuns’ church and
parish church being taken down, remaineth now to the parish, and is a fair
parish church, but wanteth such a steeple as Sir Thomas Gresham promised
to have built, in recompense of ground in their church filled up with his

monument. The nuns’ hall, and other houses thereunto appertaining, was
since purchased by the company of the Leathersellers, and is their common
hall; which company was incorporate in the 21st year of Richard II.
In the church of St. Helen have you these monuments of the dead:—
Thomas Langton, chaplain, buried in the choir 1350; Adam Frances, mayor,
1354; Elizabeth Vennar, wife to William Vennar, alderman, one of the
sheriffs of London, 1401; Joan, daughter to Henry Seamer, wife to Richard,
son and heir to Robert Lord Poynings, died a virgin 1420; John Swinflat,
1420; Nicholas Marshall, ironmonger, alderman, 1474; Sir John Crosby,
alderman, 1475, and Ann his wife; Thomas Williams, gentleman, 1495;
Joan Cocken, wife to John Cocken, esquire, 1509; Marie Orrell, wife to Sir
Lewes Orrell, knight; Henry Sommer, and Katherine his wife; Walter
Huntington, esquire; John Langthorpe, esquire, 1510; John Gower, steward
of St. Helen’s, 1512; Robert Rochester, esquire, sergeant of the pantry to
Henry VIII.; Sir William Sanctlo, and Sir William Sanctlo, father and son;
Eleanor, daughter to Sir Thomas Butler; Lord Sudley; John Southworth;
Nicholas Harpsfield, esquire; Thomas Sanderford, or Sommerford,
alderman; Alexander Cheyney; Walter Dawbeney; George Fastolph, son to
Hugh Fastolph; Robert Liade; Thomas Benolt, alias Clarenciaulx, king at
arms, 1534; William Hollis, mayor, 1540; John Fauconbridge, esquire,
1545; Hacket, gentleman of the king’s chapel; Sir Andrew Jud, mayor,
1551; Sir William Pickering, and Sir William Pickering, father and son;
William Bond, alderman, 1567; Sir Thomas Gresham, mercer, 1579;
William Skegges, sergeant poulter; Richard Gresham, son to Sir Thomas
Gresham, 1564.
Then have you one great house called Crosby place, because the same was
built by Sir John Crosby, grocer and woolman, in place of certain
tenements, with their appurtenances, letten to him by Alice Ashfed, prioress
of St. Helen’s, and the convent for ninety-nine years, from the year 1466
unto the year 1565, for the annual rent of £11 6s. 8d. This house he built of
stone and timber, very large and beautiful, and the highest at that time in
London. He was one of the sheriffs, and an alderman in the year 1470,
knighted by Edward IV. in the year 1471, and deceased in the year 1475; so
short a time enjoyed he that his large and sumptuous building; he was
buried in St. Helen’s, the parish church; a fair monument of him and his
lady is raised there. He gave towards the reforming of that church five

hundred marks, which was bestowed with the better, as appeareth by his
arms, both in the stone work, roof of timber, and glazing. I hold it a fable
said of him to be named Crosbie, of being found by a cross, for I have read
of other to have that name of Crosbie before him; namely, in the year 1406,
the 7th of Henry IV., the said king gave to his servant John Crosbie the
wardship of Joan, daughter and sole heir to John Jordaine, fishmonger, etc.
This Crosbie might be the father or grandfather to Sir John Crosbie.
Richard, Duke of Gloucester, and lord protector, afterward king, by the
name of Richard III., was lodged in this house; since the which time, among
other, Anthonie Bonvice, a rich merchant of Italy, dwelt there; after him,
Germain Cioll, then William Bond, alderman, increased this house in
height, with building of a turret on the top thereof: he deceased in the year
1576, and was buried in St. Helen’s church. Divers ambassadors have been
lodged there; namely, in the year 1586, Henry Ramelius, chancellor of
Denmark, ambassador unto the queen’s majesty of England from Frederick
II., the king of Denmark; an ambassador of France, etc. Sir John Spencer,
alderman, lately purchased this house, made great reparations, kept his
mayoralty there, and since built a most large warehouse near thereunto.
From this Crosbie place up to Leaden hall corner, and so down Grass street,
amongst other tenements, are divers fair and large built houses for
merchants, and such like.
Now for the other side of this ward, namely, the right hand, hard by within
the gate, is one fair water conduit, which Thomas Knesworth, mayor, in the
year 1505, founded: he gave £60, the rest was furnished at the common
charges of the city. This conduit hath since been taken down and new built.
David Woodrooffe, alderman, gave £20 towards the conveyance of more
water thereunto. From this conduit have you, amongst many fair tenements,
divers fair inns, large for receipt of travellers, and some houses for men of
worship; namely, one most spacious of all other thereabout, built of brick
and timber by Sir Thomas Gresham, knight, who deceased in the year 1579,
and was buried in St. Helen’s church, under a fair monument, by him
prepared in his life: he appointed by his testament this house to be made a
college of readers, as before is said in the chapter of schools and houses of
learning.

Somewhat west from this house is one other very fair house, wherein Sir
William Hollies kept his mayoralty, and was buried in the parish church of
St. Helen. Sir Andrew Jud also kept his mayoralty there, and was buried at
St. Helen’s: he built alms houses for six poor alms people near to the said
parish church, and gave lands to the Skinners, out of the which they are to
give 4s. every week to the six poor alms people, 8d. the piece, and 25s. 4d.
the year, in coals amongst them for ever.
Alice Smith, of London, widow, late wife of Thomas Smith, of the same
city, esquire, and customer of the port of London, in her last will and
testament, bequeathed lands to the value of £15 by the year for ever, to the
company of Skinners, for the augmenting of the pensions of certain poor,
inhabiting in eight alms houses, erected by Sir Andrew Jud, knight, her
father, in the parish of Great St. Helen’s, in Bishopsgate street, in London.
She hath also given in her said last will and testament, in other charitable
uses, as to the hospitals and to the poor of other parishes and good
preachers, the sum of £300. As also to the poor scholars in the two
universities of Oxford and Cambridge the sum of £200; of which, her last
will and testament, she made her sons, Thomas Smith, late sheriff of
London, and Richard and Robert Smith, her executors, who have performed
the same according to her godly and charitable mind.
Then in the very west corner, over against the east end of St. Martin’s
Oteswich (from whence the street windeth towards the south), you had of
old time a fair well, with two buckets, so fastened that the drawing up of the
one let down the other; but now of late that well is turned into a pump.
From this to the corner over against the Leaden hall, and so down Grasse
street, are many fair houses for merchants and artificers, and many fair inns
for travellers, even to the corner where that ward endeth, over against
Grasse street. And thus much for this Bishopsgate ward shall suffice; which
hath an alderman, two deputies, one without the gate, another within,
common councillors six, constables seven, scavengers seven, for wardmote
inquest thirteen, and a beadle: it is taxed to the fifteen at £13.[153]

BROAD STREET WARD
The next is Brode street ward, which beginneth within Bishopsgate, from
the water conduit westward on both sides of the street, by Allhallows
church, to an iron grate on the channel which runneth into the water-course
of Walbrooke, before you come to the postern called Mooregate; and this is
the farthest west part of that ward.
Then have you Brode street, whereof the ward taketh name, which
stretcheth out of the former street from the east corner of Allhallows
churchyard, somewhat south to the parish church of St. Peter the Poor on
both sides, and then by the south gate of the Augustine friars west, down
Throkmorton street by the Drapers’ hall into Lothburie, to another grate of
iron over the channel there, whereby the water runneth into the course of
Walbrook, under the east end of St. Margaret’s church, certain posts of
timber are there set up; and this is also the farthest west part of this ward, in
the said street. Out of the which street runneth up Bartholomew lane south
to the north side of the Exchange; then more east, out of the former street
from over against the Friars Augustine’s church south gate, runneth up
another part of Brode street south to a pump over against St. Bennet’s
church. Then have you one other street called Three needle street, beginning
at the west, with two buckets, by St. Martin’s Oteswich church wall. This
street runneth down on both sides to Finkes lane, and half way up that lane
to a gate of a merchant’s house on the west side, but not so far on the east;
then the foresaid street, from this Finkes lane, runneth down by the Royal
Exchange to the Stocks, and to a place formerly called Scalding house, or
Scalding wick, but now Scalding alley; by the west side whereof, under the
parish church of St. Mildred, runneth the course of Walbrooke; and these be
the bounds of this ward.
Special monuments therein are these:—First, the parish church of
Allhallows in the wall, so called of standing close to the wall of the city, in
which have been buried Thomas Durrem, esquire, and Margaret his wife;
Robert Beele, esquire, 1601. On the other side of that street, amongst many

proper houses possessed for the most part by curriers, is the Carpenters’
hall, which company was incorporated in the 17th year of King Edward IV.
Then east from the Currier’s row is a long and high wall of stone, inclosing
the north side of a large garden adjoining to as large an house, built in the
reign of King Henry VIII. and of Edward VI. by Sir William Powlet, lord
treasurer of England. Through this garden, which of old time consisted of
divers parts, now united, was sometimes a fair footway, leading by the west
end of the Augustine friars church straight north, and opened somewhat
west from Allhallows church against London wall towards Moregate; which
footway had gates at either end, locked up every night; but now the same
way being taken into those gardens, the gates are closed up with stone,
whereby the people are forced to go about by St. Peter’s church, and the
east end of the said Friars church, and all the said great place and garden of
Sir William Powlet to London wall, and so to Moregate.
This great house, adjoining to the garden aforesaid, stretcheth to the north
corner of Brode street, and then turneth up Brode street all that side to and
beyond the east end of the said Friars church. It was built by the said lord
treasurer in place of Augustine friars house, cloister, and gardens, etc. The
Friars church he pulled not down, but the west end thereof, inclosed from
the steeple and choir, was in the year 1550 granted to the Dutch nation in
London, to be their preaching place: the other part, namely, the steeple,
choir, and side aisles to the choir adjoining, he reserved to household uses,
as for stowage of corn, coal, and other things; his son and heir, Marquis of
Winchester, sold the monuments of noblemen there buried in great number,
the paving-stone and whatsoever (which cost many thousands), for one
hundred pounds, and in place thereof made fair stabling for horses. He
caused the lead to be taken from the roofs, and laid tile in place whereof;
which exchange proved not so profitable as he looked for, but rather to his
disadvantage.
On the east side of this Brode street, amongst other buildings, on the back
part of Gresham house, which is in Bishopsgate street, he placed eight
proper alms houses, built of brick and timber by Sir Thomas Gresham,
knight, for eight alms men, which he now there placed rent free, and receive
each of them by his gift £6 13s. 4d. yearly for ever.

Next unto Pawlet house is the parish church of St. Peter the Poor, so called
for a difference from other of that name, sometime peradventure a poor
parish, but at this present there be many fair houses, possessed by rich
merchants and other. Buried in this church: Richard Fitzwilliams, merchant-
tailor, 1520; Sir William Roch, mayor, 1540; Martin Calthrope, mayor,
1588.
Then next have you the Augustine Friars church and churchyard; the
entering thereunto by a south gate to the west porch, a large church, having
a most fine spired steeple, small, high, and straight, I have not seen the like:
founded by Humfrey Bohun, Earl of Hereford and Essex, in the year 1253.
Reginald Cobham gave his messuage in London to the enlarging thereof, in
the year 1344. Humfrey Bohun, Earl of Hereford and Essex, re-edified this
church in the year 1354, whose body was there buried in the choir. The
small spired steeple of this church was overthrown by a tempest of wind in
the year 1362, but was raised of new, as now it standeth, to the beautifying
of the city. This house was valued at £57, and was surrendered the 12th of
November, the 30th of Henry VIII.
There lie buried in this Friars church, amongst others, Edward, first son to
Joan, mother to King Richard II.; Guy de Mericke, Earl of St. Paule; Lucie,
Countess of Kent, and one of the heirs of Barnabie Lord of Millaine, with
an epitaph; Dame Ide, wife to Sir Thomas West; Dame Margaret West;
Stephen Lindericle, esquire; Sir Humfrey Bohun, Earl of Hereford and
Essex, Lord of Brekenake;[154] Richard, the great Earl of Arundell, Surrey,
and Warren, beheaded, 1397; Sir Edward Arundell, and Dame Elizabeth his
wife; Sir Francis Atcourt,[155] Earl of Pembrooke, which married Alice,
sister to the Earl of Oxford; Dame Lucie Knowles, of Kent; Sir Peter
Garinsers, of France; the Lord John Vere, Earl of Oxford, beheaded on the
Tower hill 1463; Aubrey de Vere, son and heir to the Earl of Oxford; Sir
Thomas Tudnam, knight; William Bourser; Lord Fitz Warren; Sir Thomas
de la Lande, knight; Dame Joan Norris, the Lady of Bedforde; Anne,
daughter to John Viscount Welles; Walter Nevell, esquire; Sir John
Manners, knight; the wife of Sir David Cradocke, knight; the mother to the
Lord Spencer’s wife; Sir Bartlemew Rodlegate; John, son to Sir John
Wingfield; Sir Walter Mewes; Robert Newenton, esquire; Philip Spencer,
son to Sir Hugh Spencer; Dame Isabell, daughter to Sir Hugh; the Lord
Barons slain at Barnet field, buried there 1471. In the body of the church:

Dame Julian, wife to Sir Richard Lacie; Sir Thomas Courtney, son to the
Earl of Devonshire, and by him, his sister, wedded to Cheverstone; the
daughter of the Lord Beaumont; two sons of Sir Thomas Morley, to wit,
William and Ralph; Sir William Talmage, knight; Nicholas Blondell,
esquire; Sir Richard Chamberlaine; John Halton, gentleman; Sir John
Gifford, knight; Thomas Manningham, esquire; Sir William Kenude,
knight; Sir William, son to Sir Thomas Terill; John Surell, gentleman. In the
east wing: Margaret Barentin, gentlewoman; John Spicer, esquire, and Letis
his wife; John le Percers, esquire; Roger Chibary, esquire; Peter Morens,
esquire; Thomas, son to Sir William Beckland; James Cuthing, esquire;
John Chorner, esquire; William Kenley, esquire; Margery, wife to Thomas
Band, and daughter to John Hutch; the Lord William, Marquis of Barkeley
and Earl of Nottingham, and Dame Joan his wife. In the west wing: Sir
John Tirrill, and Dame Katherine his wife; Sir Walter of Powle, knight; Sir
John Blanckwell, and his wife Dame Jane Sayne, daughter to Sir John Lee;
Sir John Dawbeney, son and heir to Sir Giles Dawbeney; William, son to
Sir Roger Scroope; Dame Joan Dawbeney, wife to Sir William Dawbeney;
Thomas Charles, esquire; Sir John Dawbeney, knight, and his son Robert;
Sir James Bell, knight; Sir Oliver Manny, knight; Henry Deskie, esquire;
Sir Diones Mordaske; Sir Bernard Rolingcort; Sir Peter Kayor; Sir William
Tirell; Sir William, his brother knights; William Collingborne, esquire,
beheaded 1484; Sir Roger Clifford, knight; Sir Thomas Coke, mayor in the
year 1462; William Edward, mayor, 1471; Sir James Tirell, Sir John
Windany, knights, beheaded 1502; Sir John Dawtrie, knight, 1519; Dame
Margaret Rede, 1510; Edward, Duke of Buckingham, beheaded 1521;
Gwiskard, Earl of Huntington.
On the south side, and at the west end of this church, many fair houses are
built; namely, in Throgmorton street, one very large and spacious, built in
the place of old and small tenements by Thomas Cromwell, master of the
king’s jewel-house, after that master of the rolls, then Lord Cromwell,
knight, lord privy seal, vicar-general, Earl of Essex, high chamberlain of
England, etc. This house being finished, and having some reasonable plot of
ground left for a garden, he caused the pales of the gardens adjoining to the
north part thereof on a sudden to be taken down; twenty-two feet to be
measured forth right into the north of every man’s ground; a line there to be
drawn, a trench to be cast, a foundation laid, and a high brick wall to be
built. My father had a garden there, and a house standing close to his south

pale; this house they loosed from the ground, and bare upon rollers into my
father’s garden twenty-two feet, ere my father heard thereof; no warning
was given him, nor other answer, when he spake to the surveyors of that
work, but that their master Sir Thomas commanded them so to do; no man
durst go to argue the matter, but each man lost his land, and my father paid
his whole rent, which was 6s. 6d. the year, for that half which was left. Thus
much of mine own knowledge have I thought good to note, that the sudden
rising of some men causeth them[156] to forget themselves.
The company of the Drapers in London bought this house, and now the
same is their common hall. This company obtained of King Henry VI., in
the 17th of his reign, to be incorporate: John Gidney was chosen to be their
first master, and the four wardens were, J. Wotton, J. Darbie, Robert Breton,
and T. Cooke. The arms granted to the said company by Sir William
Bridges, knight, first garter king at arms, in blason, are thus: Three
sunbeams issuing out of three clouds of flame, crowned with three crowns
imperial of gold, upon a shield azure. From this hall, on the same side down
to the grates and course of Walbrook, have ye divers fair houses for
merchants and other; from the which grates back again on the other side in
Lethbury, so called in record of Edward III., the 38th year, and now
corruptly called Lothbury, are candlestick founders placed, till ye come to
Bartholomew lane, so called of St. Bartholomew’s church, at the south-east
corner thereof. In this lane also are divers fair built houses on both sides,
and so likewise have ye in the other street, which stretcheth from the Friars
Augustine’s south gate to the corner over against St. Bennet’s church. In
this street, amongst other fair buildings, the most ancient was of old time a
house pertaining to the abbot of St. Albans; John Catcher, alderman, now
dwelleth there; then is the free school pertaining to the late dissolved
hospital of St. Anthony, whereof more shall be shown in another place, and
so up to Threeneedle street. On the south part of which street, beginning at
the east, by the well with two buckets, now turned to a pump, is the parish
church of St. Martin called Oteswich, of Martin de Oteswich, Nicholas de
Oteswich, William Oteswich, and John Oteswich, founders thereof. There
be monuments in this church of William Constantine, alderman, and Emme
his wife; Katherine, wife to Benedick Augustine; Sir William Drifield,
knight; John Oteswich, and his wife, under a fair monument on the south
side; John Churchman, one of the sheriffs, in the year 1385; Richard
Naylor, tailor, alderman, 1483; James Falleron; John Melchborne; Thomas

Hey, and Hellis his wife; William Clitherow, and Margaret his wife; Oliver
and William, sons to John Woodroffe, esquire; Hugh Pemberton, tailor,
alderman, 1500, and Katherine his wife; Matthew Pemberton, merchant-
tailor, about 1514: he gave £50 to the repairing of St. Lawrence chapel. The
aforesaid John Churchman, for William and John Oteswich, by license of
Henry IV., the 6th of his reign, gave the advowson or patronage of this
church, four messuages, and seventeen shops, with the appurtenances in the
parish of St. Martin’s Oteswich, etc., to the master and wardens of tailors
and linen-armourers, keepers of the guild and fraternity of St. John Baptist
in London, and to their successors, in perpetual alms, to be employed on the
poor brethren and sisters; whereupon, adjoining unto the west end of this
parish church, the said master and wardens built about a proper quadrant or
squared court, seven alms houses, wherein they placed seven alms men of
that company, and their wives (if they had wives); each of these seven of
old time had 13d. the week, but now of later time their stipend by the said
master and wardens hath been augmented to the sum of 26s. the quarter,
which is £5 4s. the year to each of them, besides coals; more, to each of
them 20s. the year, by gift of Walter Fish, sometime master of that
company, and tailor to her majesty.
Some small distance from thence is the Merchant-tailors’-hall, pertaining to
the guild and fraternity of St. John Baptist, time out of mind called of tailors
and linen-armourers of London; for I find that Edward I., in the 28th of his
reign, confirmed this guild by the name of Tailors and Linen-armourers, and
also gave to the brethren thereof authority every year at Midsummer to hold
a feast, and to choose unto them a governor, or master, with wardens;
whereupon the same year, 1300, on the feast day of the nativity of St. John
Baptist, they chose Henry de Ryall to be their pilgrim for the master of this
mystery (as one that travelled for the whole company was then so called)
until the 11th of Richard II.; and the four wardens were then called
purveyors of alms (now called quarterage) of the said fraternity. This
merchant-tailors’ hall, sometime pertaining to a worshipful gentleman
named Edmond Creping (Dominus Creping after some record), he in the
year of Christ 1331, the first of Edward III., for a certain sum of money to
him paid, made his grant thereof by the name of his principal messuage in
the wards of Cornehill and Brode street, which Sir Oliver Ingham, knight,
did then hold, to John of Yakley, the king’s pavilion maker. This was called
the new hall, or tailors’ inn, for a difference from their old hall, which was

about the back side of the Red Lion in Basing lane, and in the ward of
Cordwayner street.
The 21st of Edward IV., Thomas Holme, alias Clarenciaulx king of arms
for the south part of England, granted by his patents to the said fraternity
and guild of St. John Baptist, of tailors and linen-armourers, to bear in a
field silver, a pavilion between two mantels imperial purple garnished with
gold, in a chief azure and holy Lamb, set within a sun, the crest upon the
helm, a pavilion purple garnished with gold, etc. After this King Henry VII.
being himself a brother of this fraternity or guild of St. John Baptist, of
tailors or linen-armourers (as divers other his predecessors kings before him
had been, to wit, Richard III., Edward IV., Henry V., Henry IV., and Richard
II.); and for that divers of that fraternity had, time out of mind, been great
merchants, and had frequented all sorts of merchandises into most parts of
the world, to the honour of the king’s realm, and to the great profit of his
subjects, and of his progenitors; and the men of the said mystery, during the
time aforesaid, had exercised the buying and selling of all wares and
merchandises, especially of woollen cloth, as well in gross, as by retail,
throughout all this realm of England, and chiefly within the said city;
therefore he, of his especial grace, did change, transfer, and translate the
guild aforesaid, and did incorporate them into the name of the Master and
Wardens of the Merchant-tailors of the fraternity of St. John Baptist, in the
city of London.
Some distance west from this the Merchant-tailors’ hall is Finke’s lane, so
called of Robert Finke, and Robert Finke his son, James Finke, and
Rosamond Finke. Robert Finke the elder new built the parish church of St.
Bennet, commonly called Fink, of the founder; his tenements were both of
St. Bennet’s parish and St. Martin’s Oteswich parish. The one half of this
Finke lane is of Brode street ward, to wit, on the west side up to the great
and principal house wherein the said Finke dwelt; but on the other side,
namely the east, not so much towards Cornhill. Then without this lane in
the aforesaid Threeneedle street is the said parish church of St. Bennet, a
proper church, in which are these monuments of the dead:—Robert Simson,
and Elizabeth his wife; Roger Strange, esquire; Trerisse; William Coolby;
John Frey; Thomas Briar, plumber, 1410, etc.
Some distance west is the Royal Exchange, whereof more shall be spoken
in the ward of Cornhill, and so down to the little conduit, called the pissing

conduit, by the Stockes market, and this is the south side of Threeneedle
street.
On the north side of this street, from over against the east corner of St.
Martin’s Oteswich church, have ye divers fair and large houses till ye come
to the hospital of St. Anthonie, sometime a cell to St. Anthonie’s of Vienna.
For I read that King Henry III. granted to the brotherhood of St. Anthonie of
Vienna, a place amongst the Jews, which was sometime their synagogue,
and had been built by them about the year 1231; but the Christians obtained
of the king that it should be dedicated to our Blessed Lady; and since a
hospital being there built, was called St. Anthonie’s in London; it was
founded in the parish of St. Bennet Finke, for a master, two priests, one
schoolmaster, and twelve poor men: after which foundation, amongst other
things, was given to this hospital, one messuage and garden, whereon was
built the fair large free school, and one other parcel of ground, containing
thirty-seven feet in length, and eighteen feet in breadth, whereon was built
the alms houses of hard stone and timber, in the reign of Henry VI., which
said Henry VI., in the 20th of his reign, gave unto John Carpenter, D.D.,
master of St. Anthonie’s hospital, and to his brethren and their successors
for ever, his manor of Ponington, with the appurtenances, with certain
pensions and portions of Milburne, Burnworth, Charlton, and Up
Wimborne, in the county of Southampton, towards the maintenance of five
scholars in the university of Oxford, to be brought up in the faculty of arts,
after the rate of ten pence the week for every scholar, so that the said
scholars shall be first instructed in the rudiments of grammar at the college
of Eaton, founded by the said king.
In the year 1474, Edward IV. granted to William Say, B.D., master of the
said hospital, to have priests, clerks, scholars, poor men, and brethren of the
same, clerks, or laymen, choristers, proctors, messengers, servants in
household, and other things whatsoever, like as the prior and convent of St.
Anthonie’s of Vienna, etc. He also annexed, united, and appropriated the
said hospital unto the collegiate church of St. George in Windsor.
The proctors of this house were to collect the benevolence of charitable
persons towards the building and supporting thereof. And amongst other
things observed in my youth, I remember that the officers charged with
oversight of the markets in this city, did divers times take from the market
people, pigs starved, or otherwise unwholesome for man’s sustenance; these

they slit in the ear. One of the proctors for St. Anthonie’s tied a bell about
the neck, and let it feed on the dunghills; no man would hurt or take them
up, but if any gave to them bread, or other feeding, such would they know,
watch for, and daily follow, whining till they had somewhat given them;
whereupon was raised a proverb, “Such an one will follow such an one, and
whine as it were an Anthonie pig;” but if such a pig grew to be fat, and
came to good liking (as oft times they did), then the proctor would take him
up to the use of the hospital.
In the year 1499, Sir John Tate, sometime ale-brewer, when a mercer,
caused his brewhouse, called the Swan, near adjoining to the said free
chapel, college, or hospital of St. Anthonie, to be taken down for the
enlarging of the church, which was then new built, toward the building
whereof the said Tate gave great sums of money, and finished in the year
1501. Sir John Tate deceased 1514, and was there buried under a fair
monument by him prepared. Dr. Tayler, master of the rolls, and other.[157]
Walter Champion, draper, one of the sheriffs of London 1529, was buried
there, and gave to the beadman twenty pounds. The lands by year of this
hospital were valued in the 37th year of Henry VIII. to be fifty-five pounds
six shillings and eight pence.
One Johnson (a schoolmaster of the famous free-school there) became a
prebend of Windsor, and then by little and little followed the spoil of this
hospital. He first dissolved the choir, conveyed the plate and ornaments,
then the bells, and lastly put out the alms men from their houses, appointing
them portions of twelve pence the week to each (but now I hear of no such
matter performed), their houses with other be letten out for rent, and the
church is a preaching place for the French nation.
This school was commended in the reign of Henry VI., and sithence
commended above other, but now decayed, and come to nothing, by taking
that from it what thereunto belonged.
Next is the parish church of St. Bartholomew, at the end of Bartholomew
lane. Thomas Pike, alderman, with the assistance of Nicholas Yoo, one of
the sheriffs of London, about the year 1438, new built this church. Sir John
Fray, knight, was buried there, Margery his daughter and heir, wife to Sir
John Lepington, knight, founded there a chantry the 21st of Edward IV.
Alderban, a Gascoyne, was buried there; Sir Will. Capel, mayor 1509,

added unto this church a proper chapel on the south side thereof, and was
buried there; Sir Giles Cappell was also buried there; James Wilford, tailor,
one of the sheriffs 1499, appointed by his testament a doctor of divinity,
every Good Friday for ever, to preach there a sermon of Christ’s Passion,
from six of the clock till eight before noon, in the said church. John
Wilford, merchant-tailor, alderman, 1544; Sir James Wilford, 1550; Sir
George Barne, mayor 1552; John Dent; Miles Coverdale, Bishop of
Excester; Thomas Dancer, and Anne his wife.
Then lower down towards the Stocks’ market is the parish church of St.
Christopher, but re-edified of new; for Richard Shore, one of the sheriffs
1506, gave money towards the building of the steeple. There lie buried
Richard Sherington, 1392, who gave lands to that church; the Lady
Margaret Norford, 1406; John Clavering, 1421, who gave lands thereunto;
John Godnay, draper, mayor 1427. This Godnay, in the year 1444, wedded
the widow of Robert Large, late mayor, which widow had taken the mantle
and ring, and the vow to live chaste to God during the term of her life, for
the breach whereof, the marriage done, they were troubled by the church,
and put to penance, both he and she. William Hampton, mayor 1472, was a
great benefactor, and glazed some of the church windows; Sir William
Martin, mayor 1492; Roger Achley, mayor 1511, he dwelt in Cornehill
ward, in a house belonging to Cobham college, rented by the year at
twenty-six shillings and eight pence; Robert Thorne, merchant-tailor, a
bachelor, 1532—he gave by his testament in charity more than four
thousand four hundred and forty-five pounds; John Norryholme; Ralph
Batte; Alice Percivall; Jane Drew; William Borresbie; John Broke; Richard
Sutton; William Batte; James Well; Henry Beacher, alderman, 1570.
West from this church have ye Scalding alley, of old time called Scalding
house, or Scalding wike, because that ground for the most part was then
employed by poulterers that dwelt in the high street from the Stocks’ market
to the great conduit. Their poultry, which they sold at their stalls, were
scalded there. The street doth yet bear the name of the Poultry, and the
poulterers are but lately departed from thence into other streets, as into
Grasse street, and the ends of St. Nicholas flesh shambles. This Scalding
wike is the farthest west part of Brode street ward, and is by the water
called Walbrook parted from Cheap ward. This Brode street ward hath an
alderman, with his deputy, common councillors ten, constables ten,

scavengers eight, wardmote inquest thirteen, and a beadle. It is taxed to the
fifteenth in London at seven-and-twenty pounds, and accounted in the
Exchequer after twenty-five pounds.

CORNEHILL WARD
The next ward to the south is Cornehill ward, so called of a corn market,
time out of mind there holden, and is a part of the principal high street,
beginning at the west end of Leaden hall, stretching down west on both the
sides by the south end of Finks lane on the right hand, and by the north end
of Birchovers lane; on the left part of which lanes, to wit, to the middle of
them, is of this ward, and so down to the Stockes market; and this is the
bounds.
The upper or east part of this ward, and also a part of Lime street ward, hath
been (as I said) a market place, especially for corn, and since for all kind of
victuals, as is partly showed in Lime street ward; yet it appeareth of record,
that in the year 1522, the rippers of Rie and other places, sold their fresh
fish in Leaden hall market upon Cornehill, but foreign butchers were not
admitted there to sell flesh till the year 1533; and it was enacted, that
butchers should sell[158], their beef not above a halfpenny the pound, and
mutton a halfpenny half-farthing; which act being devised for the great
commodity of the realm (as it was then thought) hath since proved far
otherwise; for before that time a fat ox was sold in London for six-and-
twenty shillings and eight pence at the most, a fat wether for three shillings
and four pence, a fat calf the like price, a fat lamb for twelve pence, pieces
of beef weighing two pounds and a half at the least, yea three pounds or
better, for a penny, on every butcher’s stall in this city, and of those pieces
of beef thirteen or fourteen for twelve pence, fat mutton for eight pence the
quarter, and one hundred weight of beef for four shillings and eight pence,
at the dearest. What the price is now I need not to set down; many men
thought the same act to rise in price, by mean that graziers knew or
supposed what weight every their beasts contained, and so raising their
price thereafter, the butcher could be no gainer, but by likewise raising his
price.[159] The number of butchers then in the city and suburbs was
accounted six score, of which every one killed six oxen a piece weekly,
which is in forty-six weeks thirty-three thousand one hundred and twenty

oxen, or seven hundred and twenty oxen weekly. The foreign butchers for a
long time stood in the high street of Lime Street ward on the north side,
twice every week, namely, Wednesday and Saturday, and were some gain to
the tenants before whose doors they stood, and into whose houses they set
their blocks and stalls; but that advantage being espied, they were taken into
Leaden hall, there to pay for their standing to the chamber of London. Thus
much for the market upon Cornhill.
The chief ornaments on Cornhill ward are these: first, at the east end
thereof, in the middle of the high street, and at the parting of four ways,
have ye a water standard, placed in the year 1582, in manner following. A
certain German, named Peter Morris, having made an artificial forcier for
that purpose, conveyed Thames water in pipes of lead over the steeple of St.
Magnus church, at the north end of London Bridge, and from thence into
divers men’s houses in Thames street, New Fish street, and Grasse street, up
to the north-west corner of Leaden hall, the highest ground of all the city,
where the waste of the main pipe rising into this standard, provided at the
charges of the city, with four spouts did at every tide run (according to
covenant) four ways, plentifully serving to the commodity of the inhabitants
near adjoining in their houses, and also cleansed the channels of the street
towards Bishopsgate, Aldgate, the bridge, and the Stockes’ market. But now
no such matter, through whose default I know not.[160]
Then have ye a fair conduit of sweet water, castellated in the middest of that
ward and street. This conduit was first built of stone in the year 1282, by
Henry Walles, mayor of London, to be a prison for night-walkers, and other
suspicious persons, and was called the Tun upon Cornehill, because the
same was built somewhat in fashion of a tun standing on the one end.
To this prison the night watches of this city committed not only night
walkers, but also other persons, as well spiritual as temporal, whom they
suspected of incontinence, and punished them according to the customs of
this city; but complaint thereof being made, about the year of Christ 1297,
King Edward I. writeth to his citizens thus:—
“Edward, by the grace of God, etc. Whereas Richard Gravesend, bishop of
London, hath showed unto us, that by the Great Charter of England, the
Church hath a privilege, that no clerk should be imprisoned by a lay man
without our command, and breach of peace, which notwithstanding some

citizens of London, upon mere spite, do enter in their watches into clerks’
chambers, and like felons carry them to the Tun, which Henry le Walleys,
sometime mayor, built for night walkers; wherefore we will that this our
commandment be proclaimed in full hustings, and that no watch hereafter
enter into any clerk’s chamber, under the forfeit of twenty pounds. Dated at
Carlisle the 18th of March, the 25th of our reign.”
More, I read about the year of Christ 1299, the 27th of Edward I., certain
principal citizens of London, to wit, T. Romane, Richard Gloucester,
Nicholas Faringdon, Adam Helingburie, T. Saly, John Dunstable, Richard
Ashwy, John Wade, and William Stortford, brake up this prison called the
Tun, and took out certain prisoners, for which they were sharply punished
by long imprisonment and great fines. It cost the citizens (as some have
written) more than twenty thousand marks, which they were amerced in,
before William le March, treasurer of the king’s exchequer, to purchase the
king’s favour, and confirmation of their liberties.
Also, that in the year 1383, the 7th of Richard II., the citizens of London,
taking upon them the rights that belonged to their bishops, first imprisoned
such women as were taken in fornication or adultery in the said Tun, and
after bringing them forth to the sight of the world, they caused their heads
to be shaven, after the manner of thieves, whom they named appellators,
and so to be led about the city, in sight of all the inhabitants, with trumpets
and pipes sounding before them, that their persons might be the more
largely known. Neither did they spare such kind of men a whit the more, but
used them as hardly, saying, they abhorred not only the negligence of their
prelates, but also detested their avarice, that studying for money, omitted
the punishment limited by law, and permitted those that were found guilty
to live favourably in their sin. Wherefore, they would themselves, they said,
purge their city from such filthiness, lest, through God’s vengeance, either
the pestilence or sword should happen to them, or that the earth should
swallow them.
Last of all to be noted, I read in the charge of the wardmote inquest in every
ward of the city, these words:—“If there be any priest in service within the
ward, which before time hath been set in the Tun in Cornhill for his
dishonesty, and hath forsworn the city, all such shall be presented.”

Thus much for the Tun in Cornhill have I read. Now for the punishments of
priests in my youth: one note and no more. John Atwod, draper, dwelling in
the parish of St. Michael upon Cornehill, directly against the church, having
a proper woman to his wife, such an one as seemed the holiest among a
thousand, had also a lusty chantry priest, of the said parish church, repairing
to his house; with the which priest the said Atwod would sometimes after
supper play a game at tables for a pint of ale: it chanced on a time, having
haste of work, and his game proving long, he left his wife to play it out, and
went down to his shop, but returning to fetch a pressing iron, he found such
play to his misliking, that he forced the priest to jump out at a window over
the penthouse into the street, and so to run to his lodging in the churchyard.
Atwod and his wife were soon reconciled, so that he would not suffer her to
be called in question; but the priest being apprehended and committed, I
saw his punishment to be thus:—He was on three market days conveyed
through the high street and markets of the city with a paper on his head,
wherein was written his trespass. The first day he rode in a carry, the second
on a horse, his face to the horse tail, the third led betwixt twain, and every
day rung with basons, and proclamations made of his fact at every turning
of the street, as also before John Atwod’s stall, and the church door of his
service, where he lost his chantry of twenty nobles the year, and was
banished the city for ever.
By the west side of the foresaid prison, then called the Tun, was a fair well
of spring water, curbed round with hard stone; but in the year 1401, the said
prison house, called the Tun, was made a cistern for sweet water, conveyed
by pipes of lead from Tiborne, and was from thenceforth called the Conduit
upon Cornhill. Then was the well planked over, and a strong prison made of
timber called a cage, with a pair of stocks therein set upon it, and this was
for night walkers. On the top of which cage was placed a pillory, for the
punishment of bakers offending in the assize of bread, for millers stealing
of corn at the mill, for bawds, scolds, and other offenders. As in the year
1468, the 7th of Edward IV., divers persons being common jurors, such as
at assizes were forsworn for rewards, or favour of parties, were judged to
ride from Newgate to the pillory in Cornhill, with mitres of paper on their
heads, there to stand, and from thence again to Newgate, and this judgment
was given by the mayor of London. In the year 1509, the 1st of Henry VIII.,
Darby, Smith, and Simson, ringleaders of false inquests in London, rode
about the city with their faces to the horse tails, and papers on their heads,

and were set on the pillory in Cornhill, and after brought again to Newgate,
where they died for very shame, saith Robert Fabian. A ringleader of
inquests,[161] as I take it, is he that making a gainful occupation thereof, will
appear on Nisi-priuses, or he be warned, or procure himself to be warned, to
come on by a tales. He will also procure himself to be foreman when he
can, and take upon him to overrule the rest to his opinion; such an one shall
be laboured by plaintiffs and defendants, not without promise of rewards,
and therefore to be suspected of a bad conscience. I would wish a more
careful choice of jurors to be had; for I have known a man carted, rung with
basons, and banished out of Bishopsgate ward, and afterward in Aldgate
ward admitted to be a constable, a grand juryman, and foreman of the
wardmote inquest: what I know of the like, or worse men, proffered to the
like offices, I forbear to write, but wish to be reformed.
The foresaid conduit upon Cornhill, was in the year 1475 enlarged by
Robert Drope, draper, mayor, that then dwelt in that ward; he increased the
cistern of this conduit with an east end of stone, and castellated in comely
manner.
In the year 1546, Sir Martin Bowes, mayor, dwelling in Lombard street, and
having his back gate opening into Cornehill against the said conduit,
minded to have enlarged the cistern thereof with a west end, like as Robert
Drope before had done towards the east; view and measure of the plot was
taken for this work; but the pillory and cage being removed, they found the
ground planked, and the well aforesaid worn out of memory, which well
they revived and restored to use—it is since made a pump; they set the
pillory somewhat west from the well; and so this work ceased.
On the north side of the street, from the east unto the west, have ye divers
fair houses for merchants and other, amongst the which one large house is
called the Wey house, where merchandises brought from beyond the seas
are to be weighed at the king’s beam. This house hath a master, and under
him four master porters, with porters under them: they have a strong cart,
and four great horses, to draw and carry the wares from the merchants’
houses to the beam and back again. Sir Thomas Lovell, knight, built this
house, with a fair front of tenements towards the street; all which he gave to
the Grocers of London, himself being free of the city, and a brother of that
company.

Then have ye the said Finke’s lane, the south end of which lane on both
sides is in Cornehill ward.
Then next is the Royal Exchange, erected in the year 1566, after this order,
namely, certain houses upon Cornehill, and the like upon the back thereof,
in the ward of Brode street, with three alleys, the first called Swan alley,
opening into Cornehill, the second New alley, passing throughout of
Cornehill into Brode street ward, over against St. Bartholomew lane, the
third St. Christopher’s alley, opening into Brode street ward, and into St.
Christopher’s parish, containing in all fourscore households, were first
purchased by the citizens of London, for more than three thousand five
hundred and thirty-two pounds, and were sold for four hundred and
seventy-eight pounds, to such persons as should take them down and carry
them thence; also the ground or plot was made plain at the charges of the
city; and then possession thereof was by certain aldermen, in name of the
whole citizens, given to Sir Thomas Gresham, knight, agent to the queen’s
highness, thereupon to build a burse, or place for merchants to assemble, at
his own proper charges. And he, on the 7th of June, laying the first stone of
the foundation, being brick, accompanied with some aldermen, every of
them laid a piece of gold, which the workmen took up, and forthwith
followed upon the same with such diligence, that by the month of
November, in the year 1567, the same was covered with slate, and shortly
after fully finished.
In the year 1570, on the 23rd of January, the queen’s majesty, attended with
her nobility, came from her house at the Strand, called Somerset house, and
entered the city by Temple Bar, through Fleet street, Cheape, and so by the
north side of the burse, through Threeneedle street, to Sir Thomas
Gresham’s in Bishopsgate street, where she dined. After dinner her majesty
returning through Cornehill, entered the burse on the south side; and after
that she had viewed every part thereof above the ground, especially the
pawn, which was richly furnished with all sorts of the finest wares in the
city, she caused the same burse by an herald and trumpet to be proclaimed
the Royal Exchange, and so to be called from thenceforth, and not
otherwise.
Next adjoining this Royal Exchange remaineth one part of a large stone
house, and is now called the Castle of such a sign; at a tavern door there is a
passage through out of Cornehill into Threeneedle street; the other part of

the said stone house was taken down for enlarging the Royal Exchange: this
stone house was said of some to have been a church, whereof it had no
proportion, of others a Jew’s house, as though none but Jews had dwelt in
stone houses; but that opinion is without warrant, for besides the strong
building of stone houses against the invasion of thieves in the night, when
no watches were kept, in the 1st year of Richard I., to prevent the casualties
of fire, which often had happened in the city, when the houses were built of
timber, and covered with reed or straw, Henry Fitz Alewine being mayor, it
was decreed, that from henceforth no man should build within the city but
of stone, until a certain height, and to cover the same building with slate or
burnt tile; and this was the very cause of such stone buildings, whereof
many have remained till our time, that for winning of ground they have
been taken down, and in place of some one of them being low, as but two
stories above the ground, many houses of four or five stories high are
placed. From this stone house down to the Stocks are divers large houses,
especially for height, for merchants and artificers.
On the south side of this high street is the parish church of St. Peter upon
Cornehill, which seemeth to be of an ancient building, but not so ancient as
fame reporteth, for it hath been lately repaired, if not all new built, except
the steeple, which is ancient. The roof of this church, and glazing, were
finished in the reign of Edward IV., as appeareth by arms of noblemen and
aldermen of London then living. There remaineth in this church a table
whereon it is written, I know not by what authority, but of a late hand, that
King Lucius founded the same church to be an archbishop’s see
metropolitan,[162] and chief church of his kingdom, and that it so endured
the space of four hundred years, unto the coming of Augustin the monk.
Joceline of Furness writeth, that Thean, the first archbishop of London, in
the reign of Lucius, built the said church by the aid of Ciran, chief butler to
King Lucius; and also that Eluanus, the second archbishop, built a library to
the same adjoining, and converted many of the Druids, learned men in the
Pagan law, to Christianity. True it is, that a library there was pertaining to
this parish church of old time, built of stone, and of late repaired with brick
by the executors of Sir John Crosby, alderman, as his arms on the south end
doth witness.
This library hath been of late time, to wit, within these fifty years, well
furnished of books; John Leyland viewed and commended them; but now

those books be gone, and the place is occupied by a schoolmaster and his
usher, over a number of scholars learning their grammar rules, etc.
Notwithstanding, before that time a grammar school had been kept in this
parish, as appeareth in the year 1425, I read, that John Whitby was rector,
and John Steward schoolmaster there; and in the 25th of Henry VI., it was
enacted by parliament, that four grammar schools in London should be
maintained, namely, in the parishes of Allhallows, in Thames street, St.
Andrew in Oldbourne, St. Peter’s upon Cornehill, and St. Thomas of Acars.
Monuments of the dead in this church defaced: I read, that Hugh Waltham,
Nicholas Pricot, mercer, alderman, Richard Manhall, 1503; William
Kingston, fishmonger, gave his tenements called the Horse mill in Grasse
street to this church, and was there buried about the year 1298; John
Unisburgh, poulterer, 1410; John Law. Also Peter Mason, tailor, gave to this
church seven pounds sterling yearly for ever, out of his tenements in
Colechurch parish, and deceased about the year 1416. John Foxton founded
a chantry there. A brotherhood of St. Peter was in this church established by
Henry IV., the 4th of his reign. William Brampton and William Askham,
fishmongers and aldermen, were chief procurers thereof, for the
fishmongers of late buried there; Sir William Bowyer, mayor 1543; Sir
Henry Huberthorn, mayor 1546; Sir Christopher Morice, master-gunner of
England to King Henry VIII.; Edward Elrington, esquire, chief-butler to
Edward VI.; Thomas Gardener, grocer; and Justice Smith, and other.
Then have ye the parish church of St. Michael th’ Archangel; for the
antiquity whereof I find that Alnothus the priest gave it to the abbot and
convent of Covesham, Reynold abbot, and the convent there did grant the
same to Sperling the priest, in all measures as he and his predecessors
before had held it; to the which Sperling also they granted all their lands
which they there had, except certain lands which Orgar le Prowde had held
of them, and paid two shilling yearly; for the which grant the said Sperling
should yearly pay one mark of rent to the said abbot of Covesham, and find
him and his lodging, salt, water, and fire, when he came to London. This
was granted 1133, about the 34th of Henry I. Thus much for antiquity; of
later time I find, that Elizabeth Peake, widow, gave the patronage or gift of
this benefice to the Drapers in London; she lieth buried in the belfry, 1518:
her monument yet remaineth.

This hath been a fair and beautiful church, but of late years, since the
surrender of their lands to Edward VI., greatly blemished by the building of
lower tenements on the north side thereof towards the high street, in place
of a green churchyard, whereby the church is darkened, and other ways
annoyed. The fair new steeple, or bell tower of this church, was begun to be
built in the year 1421, which being finished, and a fair ring of five bells
therein placed, a sixth bell[163] was added, and given by John Whitwell,
Isabel his wife, and William Rus, alderman, and goldsmith, about the year
1430, which bell, named “Rus,” nightly at eight of the clock, and otherwise
for knells, and in peals, rung by one man, for the space of one hundred and
sixty years, of late overhauled by four or five at once, hath been thrice
broken, and new cast within the space of ten years, to the charges of that
parish more than one hundred marks.
And here a note of this steeple: as I have oft heard my father report, upon
St. James’ night, certain men in the loft next under the bells, ringing of a
peal, a tempest of lightning and thunder did arise, an ugly shapen sight
appeared to them, coming in at the south window, and lighted on the north,
for fear whereof they all fell down, and lay as dead for the time, letting the
bells ring and cease of their own accord; when the ringers came to
themselves, they found certain stones of the north window to be razed and
scratched, as if they had been so much butter, printed with a lion’s claw; the
same stones were fastened there again, and so remain till this day. I have
seen them oft, and have put a feather or small stick into the holes where the
claws had entered three or four inches deep. At the same time certain main
timber posts at Queene Hith were scratched and cleft from the top to the
bottom; and the pulpit cross in Powle’s churchyard was likewise scratched,
cleft, and overturned. One of the ringers lived in my youth, whom I have oft
heard to verify the same to be true.
But to return. William Rus was a special benefactor to this church; his arms
yet remain in the windows. William Comerton, Symon Smith, Walter
Belingham, were buried there, and founded chantries there; John Grace,
1439; Robert Drope, mayor, buried on the north side of the choir, under a
fair tomb of grey marble, 1485, he gave to poor maids’ marriages of that
parish twenty pounds, to poor of that ward ten pounds, shirts and smocks
three hundred, and gowns of broad cloth one hundred, etc.[164] Jane his
wife, matching with Edward Gray, Viscount Lisle, was buried by her first

husband, 1500; she gave ninety pounds in money to the beautifying of that
church, and her great messuage, with the appurtenance, which was by her
executors, W. Caple and other, 1517, the 9th of Henry VIII., assured to John
Wardroper, parson, T. Clearke, W. Dixson, and John Murdon, wardens of
the said church, and their successors for ever, they do keep yearly for her an
obite, or anniversary, to be spent on the poor, and otherwise, in all three
pounds, the rest of the profits to be employed in reparation of the church. In
the 34th year of Henry VIII., Edward Stephan, parson, T. Spencer, P.
Guntar, and G. Grouch, churchwardens, granted to T. Lodge a lease for
sixty years of the said great messuage, with the appurtenance, which were
called the Lady Lisle’s lands, for the rent of eight pounds thirteen shillings
and four pence the year. The parishioners since gave it up as chantry land,
and wronged themselves. Also the said Robert Drope, and Lady Lisle,
notwithstanding their liberality to that church and parish, their tomb is
pulled down, no monument remaineth of them. Peter Hawton, late
alderman, is laid in their vault, 1596. Robert Fabian, alderman, that wrote
and published a Chronicle of England and of France, was buried there 1511,
with this epitaph:—

“Like as the day his course doth consume,
And the new morrow springeth againe as fast,
So man and woman, by Nature’s custome,
This life to pass, at last in earth are cast,
In joy and sorrow, which here their time do wast,
Never in one state, but in course transitory,
So full of change is of this world the glory.”

His monument is gone. Richard Garnam, 1527, buried there; Edmond
Trindle and Robert Smith;[165] William Dickson and Margaret his wife,[166]
buried in the cloister under a fair tomb now defaced; Thomas Stow, my
grandfather, about the year 1526, and Thomas Stow, my father, 1559; John
Tolus, alderman, 1548, he gave to John Willowby, parson of that church, to
Thomas Lodge, G. Hind, P. Bolde, churchwardens, and to their successors,
towards the reparation of that church, and relief of the poor for ever, his
tenement with the appurtenances in the parish of St. Michael, which he had
lately purchased of Alvery Randalph, of Badlesmeere in Kent; but the
parish never had the gift, nor heard thereof by the space of forty years after;

such was the conscience of G. Barne and other the executors, to conceal it
to themselves; and such is the negligence of the parishioners, that being
informed thereof, make no claim thereunto. Philip Gonter, that was
alderman for a time, and gave four hundred pounds to be discharged
thereof, was buried in the cloister about the year 1582, and Anne his wife,
etc. Thomas Houghton, father to the said Peter Houghton, Francis Beneson,
and William Towersan.
This parish church hath on the south side thereof a proper cloister, and a fair
churchyard, with a pulpit cross, not much unlike to that in Paule’s
churchyard. Sir John Rudstone, mayor, caused the same pulpit cross in his
lifetime to be built, the churchyard to be enlarged, by ground purchased of
the next parish, and also proper houses to be raised for lodging of choir
men, such as at that time were assistants to divine service, then daily sung
by note in that church. The said John Rudstone deceased 1531, and was
buried in a vault under the pulpit cross; he appointed sermons to be
preached there, not now performed; his tomb before the pulpit cross is taken
thence, with the tomb of Richard Yaxley, Doctor of Physic to King Henry
VIII. and other. The choir of that church dissolved, the lodgings of choir
men were by the grave fathers of that time charitably appointed for receipt
of ancient decayed parishioners, namely, widows, such as were not able to
bear the charge of greater rents abroad, which blessed work of harbouring
the harbourless is promised to be rewarded in the kingdom of heaven.
Then have ye Birchover lane, so called of Birchover, the first builder and
owner thereof, now corruptly called Birchin lane, the north half whereof is
of the said Cornehill ward; the other part is of Langborne ward.
This lane, and the high street near adjoining, hath been inhabited for the
most part with wealthy drapers, from Birchover’s lane, on that side the
street down to the stocks, in the reign of Henry VI., had ye for the most part
dwelling Fripperers or Upholders, that sold old apparel and household stuff.
I have read of a countryman, that then having lost his hood in Westminster
hall, found the same in Cornehill hanged out to be sold, which he
challenged, but was forced to buy, or go without it, for their stall, they said,
was their market. At that time also the wine drawer of the Pope’s head
tavern (standing without the door in the high street) took the same man by
the sleeve, and said, “Sir, will you drink a pint of wine?” whereunto he

answered, “A penny spend I may;” and so drank his pint, for bread nothing
did he pay, for that was allowed free.[167]
This Pope’s head tavern, with other houses adjoining, strongly built of
stone, hath of old time been all in one, pertaining to some great estate, or
rather to the king of this realm, as may be supposed, both by the largeness
thereof, and by the arms, to wit, three leopards passant, gardant, which were
the whole arms of England before the reign of Edward III., that quartered
them with the arms of France, three fleur-de-lis.
These arms of England, supported between two angels, are fair and largely
graven in stone on the fore front towards the high street, over the door or
stall of one great house, lately for many years possessed by Mr. Philip
Gunter. The Pope’s head tavern is on the back part thereof towards the
south, as also one other house called the stone house in Lombard street.
Some say this was King John’s house, which might so be; for I find in a
written copy of Matthew Paris’ History, that in the year 1232, Henry III.
sent Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, to Cornehill in London, there to answer
all matters objected against him, where he wisely acquitted himself. The
Pope’s head tavern hath a footway through from Cornehill into Lombard
street. And down lower on the high street of Cornehill, is there one other
way through by the Cardinal’s hat tavern into Lombard street. And so let
this suffice for Cornhill ward. In which be governors:—an alderman, his
deputy, common councillors four or six, constables four, scavengers four,
wardmote inquest sixteen and a beadle. It is charged to the fifteen at sixteen
pounds.

LANGBORNE WARD, AND FENNIE ABOUT
Langborne ward, so called of a long bourne of sweet water, which of old
time breaking out into Fenchurch street, ran down the same street and
Lombard street to the west end of St. Mary Woolnoth’s church, where
turning south, and breaking into small shares, rills, or streams, it left the
name of Share borne lane, or South borne lane (as I have read), because it
ran south to the river of Thames. This ward beginneth at the west end of
Aldgate ward in Fenne church street, by the Ironmongers’ hall, which is on
the north side of that street, at a place called Culver alley, where sometime
was a lane, through the which men went into Lime street, but that being
long since stopped up for suspicion of thieves that lurked there by night, as
is shown in Lime street ward, there is now this said alley, a tennis-court,
etc.
Fenne church street took that name of a fenny or moorish ground, so made
by means of this borne which passed through it, and therefore until this day
in the Guildhall of this city, that ward is called by the name of Langborne
and Fennie about, and not otherwise; yet others be of opinion that it took
that name of Fœnum, that is, hay sold there, as Grasse street took the name
of grass, or herbs, there sold.
In the midst of this street standeth a small parish church called St. Gabriel
Fen church, corruptly Fan church.
Helming Legget, esquire, by license of Edward III., in the 49th of his reign,
gave one tenement, with a curtelage thereto belonging, and a garden, with
an entry thereto leading, unto Sir John Hariot, parson of Fenchurch, and to
his successors for ever; the house to be a parsonage-house, the garden to be
a churchyard, or burying-place for the parish.
Then have ye Lombard street, so called of the Longobards, and other
merchants, strangers of divers nations assembling there twice every day, of
what original or continuance I have not read of record, more than that
Edward II., in the 12th of his reign, confirmed a messuage, sometime

belonging to Robert Turke, abutting on Lombard street toward the south,
and toward Cornehill on the north, for the merchants of Florence, which
proveth that street to have had the name of Lombard street before the reign
of Edward II. The meeting of which merchants and others there continued
until the 22nd of December, in the year 1568; on the which day the said
merchants began to make their meetings at the burse, a place then new built
for that purpose in the ward of Cornhill, and was since by her majesty,
Queen Elizabeth, named the Royal Exchange.
On the north side of this ward is Lime street, one half whereof on both the
sides is of this Langborne ward, and therein on the west side is the
Pewterers’ hall, which company were admitted to be a brotherhood in the
13th of Edward IV.
At the south-west corner of Lime street standeth a fair parish church of St.
Dionys called Backe church, lately new built in the reign of Henry VI. John
Bugge, esquire, was a great benefactor to that work, as appeareth by his
arms, three water budgets, and his crest, a Morian’s head, graven in the
stone-work of the choir, the upper end on the north side, where he was
buried. Also John Darby, alderman, added thereunto a fair aisle, or chapel,
on the south side, and was there buried about the year 1466. He gave
(besides sundry ornaments) his dwelling-house and others unto the said
church. The Lady Wich, widow to Hugh Wich, sometime mayor of London,
was there buried, and gave lands for sermons, etc. John Master, gentleman,
was by his children buried there 1444; Thomas Britaine; Henry Travers, of
Maidstone, in Kent, merchant, 1501; John Bond, about 1504; Robert Paget,
merchant-tailor, one of the sheriffs, 1536; Sir Thomas Curteis, pewterer,
then fishmonger, mayor, 1557; Sir James Harvie, ironmonger, mayor, 1581;
William Peterson, esquire; William Sherington; Sir Edward Osborne,
clothworker, mayor, etc.
Then by the four corners (so called of Fenchurch street in the east, Bridge
street on the south, Grasse street on the north, and Lombard street on the
west), in Lombard street is one fair parish church called Allhallows Grasse
church, in Lombard street; I do so read it in evidences of record, for that the
grass market went down that way, when that street was far broader than
now it is, being straitened by incroachments.

This church was lately new built. John Warner, armourer, and then grocer,
sheriff 1494, built the south aisle; his son, Robert Warner, esquire, finished
it in the year 1516. The pewterers were benefactors towards the north aisle,
etc. The steeple, or bell tower, thereof was finished in the year 1544, about
the 36th of Henry VIII. The fair stone porch of this church was brought
from the late dissolved priory of St. John of Jerusalem by Smithfield, so
was the frame for their bells, but the bells being bought, were never brought
thither, by reason that one old Warner, draper, of that parish deceasing, his
son Marke Warner would not perform what his father had begun, and
appointed, so that fair steeple hath but one bell, as friars were wont to use.
The monuments of this church be these. The said Warners, and John
Walden, draper.
Next is a common hostelry for travellers, called the George, of such a sign.
This is said to have pertained to the Earl Ferrers, and was his London
lodging in Lombard street, and that in the year 1175, a brother of the said
earl, being there privily slain in the night, was there thrown down into the
dirty street, as I have afore shown in the chapter of night watches.
Next to this is the parish church of St. Edmond, the king and martyr, in
Lombard street, by the south corner of Birchover lane. This church is also
called St. Edmond Grasse church, because the said grass market came down
so low. The monuments in this church are these: Sir John Milborne, draper,
mayor, deceased, 1535, buried there by Dame Joan and Dame Margaret his
wives, under a tomb of touch; Humfrey Heyford, goldsmith, mayor 1477;
Sir William Chester, draper, mayor 1560, with his wives, amongst his
predecessors; Sir George Barne, mayor 1586; Matilde at Vine founded a
chantry there, etc.
From this church down Lombard street, by Birchover’s lane (the one half of
which lane is of this ward), and so down, be divers fair houses, namely, one
with a very fair fore front towards the street, built by Sir Martin Bowes,
goldsmith, since mayor of London, and then one other, sometime belonging
to William de la Pole, knight banneret, and yet the king’s merchant,[168] in
the 14th of Edward III., and after him to Michael de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk,
in the 14th of Richard II., and was his merchant’s house, and so down
towards the Stocks market, lacking but some three houses thereof.

The south side of this ward beginneth in the east, at the chain to be drawn
athwart Mart lane up into Fenchurch street, and so west by the north end of
Minchen lane to St. Margaret Patten’s street, or Roode lane, and down that
street to the midway towards St. Margaret’s church; then by Philpot lane (so
called of Sir John Philpot that dwelt there, and was owner thereof), and
down that lane some six or eight houses on each side, is all of this ward.
Then by Grasse church corner into Lombard street to St. Clement’s lane,
and down the same to St. Clement’s church; then down St. Nicholas lane,
and down the same to St. Nicholas church, and the same church is of this
ward. Then to Abchurch church lane, and down some small portion thereof;
then down Sherborne lane, a part thereof, and a part of Bearebinder lane, be
of this ward; and then down Lombard street to the sign of the Angel, almost
to the corner over against the Stocks market.
On the south side of this ward, somewhat within Mart lane, have you the
parish church of Allhallows, commonly called Stane church (as may be
supposed), for a difference from other churches of that name in this city,
which of old time were built of timber, and since were built of stone. In this
church have been divers fair monuments of the dead, namely, of John
Costin, girdler, a great benefactor: he deceased 1244. His name remaineth
painted in the church roof; if it had been set in brass, it would have been
fetched down.[169] He gave out of certain tenements to the poor of that
parish a hundred quarters of charcoals yearly for ever. Sir Robert Test,
knight of the holy sepulchre, and Dame Joan his wife, about 1486; Robert
Stone; Sir John Steward, and Dame Alice his wife;[170] John Bostocke,
esquire; Christopher Holt, Sir Richard Tate, knight, ambassador to King
Henry VIII. buried there 1554. His monument remaineth yet; the rest being
all pulled down, and swept out of the church, the churchwardens were
forced to make a large account; 12s. that year for brooms, besides the
carriage away of stone and brass of their own charge. And here I am to note,
that being informed of the Writhsleys to be buried there, I have since found
them and other to be buried at St. Giles without Cripplegate, where I mind
to leave them.
By this church sometime passed a lane, called Cradock’s lane, from Mart
lane, winding by the north side of the said church into Fenchurch street, the
which lane being straitened by incroachments, is now called Church alley.

Then is the parish church of St. Nicholas Acon, or Hacon (for so have I read
it in records), in Lombard street. Sir John Bridges, draper, mayor, 1520,
newly repaired this church, and embattled it, and was there buried. Francis
Boyer, grocer, one of the sheriffs, was buried there 1580, with other of the
Boyers: so was Julian, wife to John Lambart, alderman.[171]
Then is there in the high street a proper parish church of St. Mary
Woolnoth, of the Nativity, the reason of which name I have not yet learnt.
This church is lately new built. Sir Hugh Brice, goldsmith, mayor in the
first year of Henry VII., keeper of the king’s exchange at London, and one
of the governors of the king’s mint in the Tower of London, under William
Lord Hastings, the 5th of Edward IV., deceased 1496. He built in this
church a chapel called the Charnell, as also part of the body of the church
and of the steeple, and gave money toward the finishing thereof, besides the
stone which he had prepared: he was buried in the body of the church. Guy
Brice, or Boys, was buried there. Dame Joan, wife to Sir William Peach;
[172]
Thomas Nocket, draper, 1396: he founded a chantry there. Simon Eyre,
1459: he gave the tavern called the Cardinal’s Hat, in Lombard street, with
a tenement annexed on the east part of the tavern, and a mansion behind the
east tenement, together with an alley from Lombard street to Cornhill, with
the appurtenances, all which were by him new built, toward a brotherhood
of our Lady in St. Mary Woolnoth’s church. John Moager, pewterer, and
Emme his wife, in St. John’s chapel; Sir John Percivall, merchant-tailor,
mayor, about 1504; Thomas Roch, and Andrew Michael, vintners, and Joan
their wife; William Hilton, merchant-tailor, and tailor to King Henry VIII.,
was buried there 1519, under the chapel of St. George, which chapel was
built by George Lufken, sometime tailor to the prince; Robert Amades,
goldsmith, master of the king’s jewels; Sir Martin Bowes, mayor, buried
about 1569: he gave lands for the discharge of that Langborn ward, of all
fifteens to be granted to the king by parliament; George Hasken, Sir
Thomas Ramsey, late mayor, etc. Thus have ye seven parishes in this ward,
one hall of a company, divers fair houses for merchants, and other
monuments none. It hath an alderman, his deputy, common councillors
eight, constables fifteen, scavengers nine, men of the wardmote inquest
seventeen, and a beadle. It is taxed to the fifteen,[173] in the exchequer, at
£20 9s. 8d.

BILLINGSGATE WARD
Billingsgate ward beginneth at the west end of Tower street ward in Thames
street, about Smart’s key, and runneth down along that street on the south
side to St. Magnus church at the bridge foot, and on the north side of the
said Thames street, from over against Smart’s key, till over against the
north-west corner of St. Magnus church aforesaid, on this north side of
Thames street, is St. Marie hill lane, up to St. Margaret’s church, and then
part of St. Margaret Patten’s street, at the end of St. Marie hill lane. Next
out of Thames street is Lucas lane, and then Buttolph lane, and at the north
end thereof Philpot lane; then is Rother lane, of old time so called, and
thwart the same lane is Little Eastcheape; and these be the bounds of
Billingsgate ward.
Touching the principal ornaments within this ward. On the south side of
Thames street, beginning at the east end thereof, there is first the said
Smart’s key, so called of one Smart sometime owner thereof; the next is
Belinsgate, whereof the whole ward taketh name; the which (leaving out of
the fable, thereof feigning it to be built by King Beline, a Briton, long
before the incarnation of Christ), is at this present a large water-gate, port,
or harborough, for ships and boats, commonly arriving there with fish, both
fresh and salt, shell-fishes, salt, oranges, onions, and other fruits and roots,
wheat, rye, and grain of divers sorts, for service of the city and the parts of
this realm adjoining. This gate is now more frequented than of old time,
when the Queen’s hithe was used, as being appointed by the kings of this
realm, to be the special or only port for taking up of all such kind of
merchandises brought to this city by strangers and foreigners, and the
drawbridge of timber at London bridge was then to be raised or drawn up
for passage of ships with tops thither.
Touching the ancient customs of Belinsgate in the reign of Edward III.,
every great ship landing there paid for standage two-pence, every little ship
with orelockes a penny, the lesser boat called a Battle a halfpenny; of two
quarters of corn measured the king was to have one farthing, of a combe of

corn a penny, of every weight going out of the city a halfpenny, of two
quarters of sea coal measured a farthing, and of every tun of ale going out
of England beyond the seas, by merchant strangers, four-pence, of every
thousand herrings a farthing, except franchises, etc.
Next to this is Sommer’s key, which likewise took that name of one
Sommer dwelling there, as did Lion key of one Lion, owner thereof, and
since of the sign of a Lion.
Then is there a fair wharf, or key, called Buttolph’s gate, by that name so
called in the times of William the Conqueror, and of Edward the Confessor,
as I have shown already in the description of the gates.
Next is the parish church of St. Buttolphs, a proper church, and hath had
many fair monuments therein, now defaced and gone: notwithstanding I
find, by testimonies abroad, that these were buried there; to wit, Roger
Coggar, 1384; Andrew Pikeman, and Joan his wife, 1391; Nicholas James,
ironmonger, one of the sheriffs, 1423; William Rainwell, fishmonger, and
John Rainwell, his son, fishmonger, mayor 1426, and deceasing 1445,
buried there with this epitaph:

“Citizens of London, call to your remembrance,
The famous John Rainwell, sometime your Maior.
Of the staple of Callis, so was his chance.
Here lieth now his corps; his soule bright and faire,
Is taken to heaven’s blisse, thereof is no dispaire.
His acts beare witnes, by matters of recorde,
How charitable he was, and of what accorde,
No man hath beene so beneficiall as hee,
Unto the Citie in giving liberallie,” etc.

He gave a stone house to be a revestrie to that church for ever; more, he
gave lands and tenements to the use of the commonalty, that the mayor and
chamberlain should satisfy unto the discharge of all persons inhabiting the
wards of Belinsgate, Downegate, and Aldgate, as oft as it shall happen any
fifteen, by parliament of the king to be granted, also to the Exchequer, in
discharge of the sheriffs, ten pounds yearly, which the sheriffs used to pay
for the farm of Southwark, so that all men of the realm, coming or passing
with carriage, should be free quitted and discharged of all toll and other

payments, aforetime claimed by the sheriffs. Further, that the mayor and
chamberlain shall pay yearly to the sheriffs eight pounds, so that the said
sheriffs take no manner of toll or money of any person of this realm for
their goods, merchandises, victuals, and carriages, for their passages at the
great gate of the bridge of the city, nor at the gate called the Drawbridge,
etc. The overplus of money coming of the said lands and tenements, divided
into even portions; the one part to be employed to instore the granaries of
the city with wheat for the release of the poor commonalty, and the other
moiety to clear and cleanse the shelves, and other stoppages of the river of
Thames, etc.
Stephen Forstar, fishmonger, mayor in the year 1454, and Dame Agnes his
wife, lie buried there. William Bacon, haberdasher, one of the sheriffs 1480,
was there buried, besides many other persons of good worship, whose
monuments are all destroyed by bad and greedy men of spoil.
This parish of St. Buttolph is no great thing, notwithstanding divers
strangers are there harboured, as may appear by a presentment, not many
years since made of strangers, inhabitants in the ward of Billingsgate, in
these words: “In Billingsgate ward were one and fifty households of
strangers, whereof thirty of these households inhabited in the parish of St.
Buttolph, in the chief and principal houses, where they give twenty pounds
the year for a house lately letten for four marks; the nearer they dwell to the
water-side the more they give for houses, and within thirty years before
there was not in the whole ward above three Netherlanders; at which time
there was within the said parish levied, for the help of the poor, seven and
twenty pounds by the year; but since they came so plentifully thither, there
cannot be gathered above eleven pounds, for the stranger will not contribute
to such charges as other citizens do.” Thus much for that south side of this
ward.
On the north side is Bosse alley, so called of a boss of spring water
continually running, which standeth by Billingsgate against this alley, and
was sometime made by the executors of Richard Whittington.
Then is St. Marie hill lane, which runneth up north from Billingsgate to the
end of St. Margaret Pattens, commonly called Roode lane, and the greatest
half of that lane is also of Belinsgate ward. In this St. Marie hill lane is the

fair parish church of St. Marie, called on the hill, because of the ascent from
Billingsgate.
This church hath been lately built, as may appear by this that followeth.
Richard Hackney, one of the sheriff’s in the year 1322, and Alice his wife,
were there buried, as Robert Fabian writeth, saying thus:—“In the year
1497, in the month of April, as labourers digged for the foundation of a
wall, within the church of St. Marie hill, near unto Belinsgate, they found a
coffin of rotten timber, and therein the corpse of a woman whole of skin,
and of bones undissevered, and the joints of her arms pliable, without
breaking of the skin, upon whose sepulchre this was engraven:—‘Here lieth
the bodies of Richard Hackney, fishmonger, and Alice his wife.’”[174] The
which Richard was sheriff in the 15th of Edward II. Her body was kept
above ground three or four days without nuisance, but then it waxed
unsavoury, and so was again buried. John Mordand, stock-fishmonger, was
buried there, 1387; Nicholas Exton, fishmonger, mayor 1387; William
Cambridge, mayor, 1420; Richard Goslin, sheriff, 1422; William Philip,
sergeant-at-arms, 1473; Robert Reuell, one of the sheriffs 1490, gave
liberally toward the new building of this church and steeple, and was there
buried; William Remington, mayor, 1500; Sir Thomas Blanke, mayor, 1582;
William Holstocke, esquire, comptroller of the king’s ships; Sir Cuthbert
Buckle, mayor, 1594.
This lane on both sides is furnished with many fair houses for merchants;
and hath at the north end thereof one other lane, called St. Margaret Pattens,
because of old time pattens were there usually made and sold; but of latter
time this is called Roode lane, of a roode there placed in the churchyard of
St. Margaret, whilst the old church was taken down, and again newly built;
during which time the oblations made to this rood were employed towards
building of the church; but in the year 1538, about the 23rd of May, in the
morning, the said rood was found to have been in the night preceding, by
people unknown, broken all to pieces, together with the tabernacle wherein
it had been placed. Also, on the 27th of the same month, in the same parish,
amongst the basket makers, a great and sudden fire happened in the night
season, which within the space of three hours consumed more than a dozen
houses, and nine persons were burnt to death there: and thus ceased that
work of this church, being at that time nigh finished to the steeple.

The lane on both sides beyond the same church to the midway towards
Fenchurch street, is of Bellinsgate ward.
Then again out of Thames street, by the west end of St. Mary hill church,
runneth up one other lane, of old time called Roape lane, since called Lucas
lane, of one Lucas, owner of some part thereof, and now corruptly called
Love lane; it runneth up by the east end of a parish church of St. Andrew
Hubbert, or St. Andrew in East Cheap. This church, and all the whole lane
called Lucas lane, is of this Belinsgate ward.
Then have ye one other lane out of Thames street, called Buttolph lane,
because it riseth over against the parish church of St. Buttolph, and runneth
up north by the east end of St. George’s church to the west end of St.
Andrew’s church, and to the south end of Philpot lane.
This parish church of St. George in Buttolph lane is small, but the
monuments for two hundred years past are well preserved from spoil,
whereof one is of Adam Bamme, mayor 1397; Richard Bamme, esquire, his
son, of Gillingham in Kent, 1452; John Walton, gentleman, 1401; Marpor, a
gentleman, 1400; John St. John, merchant of Levant, and Agnes his wife,
1400; Hugh Spencer, esquire, 1424; William Combes, stock fishmonger,
one of the sheriffs 1452, who gave forty pounds towards the works of that
church; John Stokar, draper, one of the sheriffs, 1477; Richard Dryland,
esquire, and Katherine his wife, daughter of Morrice Brune, knight, of
Southuckenton in Essex, steward of household to Humfrey Duke of
Glocester, 1487; Nicholas Patrich, one of the sheriffs, 1519. In the
churchyard: William Forman, mayor, 1538; James Mumford, esquire,
surgeon to King Henry VIII., buried 1544; Thomas Gayle, haberdasher,
1340; Nicholas Wilford, merchant-tailor, and Elizabeth his wife, about the
year 1551; Edward Heyward, 1573, etc. Roger Delakere founded a chantry
there.
Then have ye one other lane called Rother lane, or Red Rose lane, of such a
sign there, now commonly called Pudding lane, because the butchers of
Eastcheap have their scalding house for hogs there, and their puddings, with
other filth of beasts, are voided down that way to their dung boats on the
Thames.
This lane stretcheth from Thames street to Little East Cheape, chiefly
inhabited by basket-makers, turners, and butchers, and is all of Billinsgate

ward. The Garland in Little East Cheape, sometime a brewhouse, with a
garden on the back side, adjoining to the garden of Sir John Philpot, was the
chief house in this East Cheape; it is now divided into sundry small
tenements, etc.
This ward hath an alderman, and his deputy, common councillors,
constables eleven, scavengers six, for the wardmote inquest fourteen, and a
beadle; it is taxed to the fifteen in London at thirty-two pounds, and in the
Exchequer at thirty-one pounds ten shillings.

BRIDGE WARD WITHIN
Bridge ward within, so called of London bridge, which bridge is a principal
part of that ward, and beginneth at the stulpes on the south end by
Southwark, runneth along the bridge, and north up Bridge street, commonly
called (of the fish market) New Fish street, from Fish street hill, up Grasse
street, to the north corner of Grasse church; all the bridge is replenished on
both the sides with large, fair, and beautiful buildings, inhabitants for the
most part rich merchants, and other wealthy citizens, mercers, and
haberdashers.
In New Fish street be fishmongers and fair taverns on Fish street hill and
Grasse street, men of divers trades, grocers and haberdashers.
In Grasse street have ye one fair conduit of sweet water castellated with
crest and vent, made by the appointment of Thomas Hill, mayor, 1484, who
gave by his testament one hundred marks towards the conveyance of water
to this place. It was begun by his executors in the year 1491, and finished of
his goods whatsoever it cost.
On the east side of this bridge ward have ye the fair parish church of St.
Magnus; in the which church have been buried many men of good worship,
whose monuments are now for the most part utterly defaced. I find John
Blund, mayor, 1307; Henry Yeuele, freemason to Edward III., Richard II.,
and Henry IV., who deceased 1400; his monument yet remaineth; William
Brampton; John Michell, mayor, 1436; John French, baker, yeoman of the
crown to Henry VII., 1510; Robert Clarke, fishmonger, 1521; Richard
Turke, one of the sheriffs, 1549; William Steede, alderman; Richard
Morgan, knight, chief justice of the common pleas, 1556; Mauritius
Griffeth, Bishop of Rochester, 1559; Robert Blanch, girdler, 1567; Robert
Belgrave, girdler; William Brame, John Couper, fishmonger, alderman, who
was put by his turn of mayoralty 1584; Sir William Garrard, haberdasher,
mayor 1555; a grave, wise, and discreet citizen, equal with the best and
inferior to none of our time, deceased 1571 in the parish of St. Christopher,
but was buried in this church of St. Magnus as in the parish where he was

born; a fair monument is there raised on him; Robert Harding, salter, one of
the sheriffs, 1568; Simon Low, merchant-tailor, esquire, etc.
Then is the parish church of St. Margaret on Fish street hill, a proper
church, but monuments it hath none: a footway passeth by the south side of
this church from Fish street hill unto Rother lane.
Up higher on this hill is the parish church of St. Leonard, Milke church, so
termed of one William Melker, an especial builder thereof, but commonly
called St. Leonard’s in East Cheape, because it standeth at East Cheape
corner. Monuments there be of the Doggets, namely, Walter Dogget,
vintner, one of the sheriffs, 1380; John Dogget, vintner, and Alice his wife,
about 1456; this John Dogget gave lands to that church; William Dogget,
etc.
This church, and from thence into Little East Cheape to the east end of the
said church, is of the Bridge ward.
Then higher in Grasse street is the parish church of St. Bennet, called
Grasse church, of the herb-market there kept: this church also is of the
Bridge ward, and the farthest north end thereof. Some monuments remain
there undefaced, as of John Harding, salter, 1576; John Sturgeon,
haberdasher, chamberlain of London; Philip Cushen, Florentine, a famous
merchant, 1600.
The customs of Grass church market, in the reign of Edward III., as I have
read in a book of customs, were these: Every foreign cart laden with corn or
malt, coming thither to be sold, was to pay one halfpenny, every foreign
cart bringing cheese two-pence, every cart of corn and cheese together (if
the cheese be more worth than the corn) two-pence, and if the corn be more
worth than the cheese, it was to pay a halfpenny; of two horses laden with
corn or malt the bailiff had one farthing; the cart of the franchise of the
Temple and of St. Martin le Grand paid a farthing; the cart of the hospital of
St. John of Jerusalem paid nothing for their proper goods, and if the corn
were brought by merchants to sell again, the load paid a halfpenny, etc.
On the west side of this ward, at the north end of London bridge, is a part of
Thames street, which is also of this ward, to wit, so much as of old time was
called Stocke Fishmonger row, of the stock fishmongers dwelling there,
down west to a watergate, of old time called Ebgate, since Ebgate lane, and

now the Old Swan, which is a common stair on the Thames, but the passage
is very narrow by means of encroachments. On the south side of Thames
street, about the midway betwixt the bridge foot and Ebgate lane, standeth
the Fishmongers’ hall, and divers other fair houses for merchants.
These fishmongers were sometimes of two several companies, to wit,
Stock-fishmongers and Salt-fishmongers, of whose antiquity I read, that by
the name of fishmongers of London, they were, for forestalling, etc.,
contrary to the laws and constitutions of the city, fined to the king at five
hundred marks, the 18th of King Edward I. More, that the said fishmongers,
hearing of the great victory obtained by the same king against the Scots, in
the 26th of his reign, made a triumphant and solemn show through the city,
with divers pageants, and more than one thousand horsemen, etc., as in the
chapter of sports and pastimes. These two companies of stock-fishmongers
and salt-fishmongers of old time had their several halls; to wit, in Thames
street twain, in New Fish street twain, and in Old Fish street twain: in each
place one for either company, in all six several halls, the company was so
great, as I have read, and can prove by records. These fishmongers having
been jolly citizens, and six mayors of their company in the space of twenty-
four years; to wit, Walter Turke, 1350; John Lofkin, 1359; John Wroth,
1361; John Pechie, 1362; Simon Morden, 1369; and William Walworth,
1374. It followed that in the year 1382, through the counsel of John
Northampton, draper, then being mayor, William Essex, John More, mercer,
and Richard Northburie, the said fishmongers were greatly troubled,
hindered of their liberties, and almost destroyed by congregations made
against them, so that in a parliament at London the controversy depending
between the mayor and aldermen of London, and the fishmongers there,
Nicholas Exton, speaker for the fishmongers, prayeth the king to receive
him and his company into his protection, for fear of corporal hurt:
whereupon it was commanded, either part to keep the peace, on pain of
losing all they had; hereupon, a fishmonger, starting up, replied that the
complaint brought against them by the movers, etc., was but matter of
malice, for that the fishmongers, in the reign of Edward III., being chief
officers of the city, had for their misdemeanors then done, committed the
chief exhibitors of those petitions to prison. In this parliament the
fishmongers, by the king’s charter patents, were restored to their liberties;
notwithstanding in the year next following, to wit, 1383, John Cavendish,
fishmonger, craveth the peace against the chancellor of England, which was

granted, and he put in sureties the Earls of Stafford and Salisburie.
Cavendish challengeth the chancellor for taking of a bribe of ten pounds for
favour of his case, which the chancellor by oath upon the sacrament
avoideth. In further trial it was found that the chancellor’s man, without his
master’s privity, had taken it; whereupon Cavendish was adjudged to
prison, and to pay the chancellor one thousand marks for slandering him.
After this, many of the nobles assembled at Reading to suppress the
seditious stirs of the said John Northampton, or Combarton, late mayor, that
had attempted great and heinous enterprises, of the which he was convicted;
and when he stood mute, nor would utter one word, it was decreed that he
should be committed to perpetual prison, his goods confiscate to the king’s
use, and that he should not come within one hundred miles of London
during his life. He was therefore sent to the castle of Tintegall in the
confines of Cornewall, and in the mean space the king’s servants spoiled his
goods. John More, Richard Northbery, and other, were likewise there
convicted, and condemned to perpetual prison, and their goods confiscate,
for certain congregations by them made against the fishmongers in the city
of London, as is aforesaid; but they obtained and had the king’s pardon, in
the 14th of his reign, as appeareth of record; and thus were all these troubles
quieted. Those stock-fishmongers and salt-fishmongers were united in the
year 1536, the 28th of Henry VIII.; their hall to be but one, in the house
given unto them by Sir John Cornwall, Lord Fanhope, and of Ampthull, in
the parish of St. Michael in Crooked lane, in the reign of Henry VI. Thus
much have I thought good to note of the fishmongers, men ignorant of their
antiquities, not able to show a reason why or when they were joined in
amity with the goldsmiths, do give part of their arms, etc. Neither, to say
aught of Sir William Walworth,[175] the glory of their company, more than
that he slew Jack Straw, which is a mere fable, for the said Straw was after
overthrowing of the rebels, taken, and by judgment of the mayor beheaded;
whose confession at the gallows is extant in my Annals, where also is set
down the most valiant and praiseworthy act of William Walworth against
the principal rebel Waltar Tighlar. As in reproof of Walworth’s monument in
St. Michael’s church, I have declared, and wished to be reformed there, as
in other places.
On that south side of Thames street have ye Drinkwater wharf and Fish
wharf, in the parish of St. Magnus. On the north side of Thames street is St.

Martin’s lane; a part of which lane is also of this ward, to wit, on the one
side to a well of water, and on the other side as far up as against the said
well. Then is St. Michael’s lane, part whereof is also of this ward up to a
well there, etc. Then at the upper end of New Fish street is a lane turning
towards St. Michael’s lane, and is called Crooked lane, of the crooked
windings thereof.
Above this lane’s end, upon Fish street hill, is one great house, for the most
part built of stone, which pertained sometime to Edward the Black Prince,
son to Edward III., who was in his lifetime lodged there. It is now altered to
a common hostelry, having the Black Bell for a sign.
Above this house, at the top of Fish street hill, is a turning into Great
Eastcheape, and so to the corner of Lombard street, over against the north-
west corner of Grasse church; and these be the whole bounds of this Bridge
ward within: the which hath an alderman and his deputy, for the common
council sixteen, constables fifteen, scavengers six, for the wardmote inquest
sixteen, and a beadle. It is taxed to the fifteen in London at forty-seven
pounds.[176]

CANDLEWICK STREET WARD
Candlewick street, or Candlewright street ward, beginneth at the east end of
Great Eastcheape; it passeth west through Eastcheape to Candlewright
street, and through the same, down to the north end of Suffolk lane on the
south side, and down that lane by the west end of St. Laurence churchyard,
which is the farthest west part of that ward. The street of Great Eastcheape
is so called of the market there kept in the east part of the city, as
Westcheape is a market so called of being in the west.
This Eastcheape is now a flesh market of butchers there dwelling on both
sides of the street: it had sometime also cooks mixed amongst the butchers,
and such other as sold victuals ready dressed of all sorts. For of old time,
when friends did meet, and were disposed to be merry, they went not to
dine and sup in taverns, but to the cooks, where they called for meat what
they liked, which they always found ready dressed at a reasonable rate, as I
have before showed.
In the year 1410, the 11th of Henry IV., upon the even of St. John Baptist,
the king’s sons,[177] Thomas and John, being in Eastcheape at supper (or
rather at breakfast, for it was after the watch was broken up, betwixt two
and three of the clock after midnight), a great debate happened between
their men and other of the court, which lasted one hour, till the mayor and
sheriffs with other citizens, appeased the same; for the which afterwards the
said mayor, aldermen, and sheriffs were called to answer before the king,
his sons, and divers lords, being highly moved against the city. At which
time, William Gascoyne, chief justice, required the mayor and aldermen, for
the citizens, to put them in the king’s grace; whereunto they answered, that
they had not offended, but (according to the law) had done their best in
stinting debate and maintaining of the peace; upon which answer the king
remitted all his ire, and dismissed them. And to prove this Eastcheape to be
a place replenished with cooks, it may appear by a song called London
Lickepennie, made by Lidgate, a monk of Berrie, in the reign of Henry V.,
in the person of a countryman coming to London, and travelling through the

same. In Westcheape (saith the song) he was called on to buy fine lawn,
Paris thread, cotton umble, and other linen clothes, and such like (he
speaketh of no silks),[178] in Cornhill, to buy old apparel[179] and household
stuff, where he was forced to buy his own hood, which he had lost in
Westminster hall: in Candlewright street drapers proffered him cheap cloth,
in Eastcheape the cooks cried hot ribs of beef roasted, pies well baked, and
other victuals: there was clattering of pewter-pots, harp, pipe, and sawtry,
yea by cock, nay by cock, for greater oaths were spared: some sang of
Jenken, and Julian, etc.; all which melody liked well the passenger, but he
wanted money to abide by it, and therefore gat him into Gravesend barge,
and home into Kent.
Candlewright (so called in old records of the Guildhall, of St. Marie
Overies, and other), or Candlewick street, took that name (as may be
supposed) either of chandlers, or makers of candles, both of wax and
tallow; for candlewright is a maker of candles, or of wick, which is the
cotton or yarn thereof; or otherwise wike,[180] which is the place where they
used to work them, as Scalding wike by the Stocks market was called of the
poulterers scalding and dressing their poultry there; and in divers countries,
dairy houses, or cottages, wherein they make butter and cheese, are usually
called wicks. There dwelt also of old time divers weavers of woollen
clothes, brought in by Edward III. For I read, that in the 44th of his reign,
the weavers, brought out of Flanders, were appointed their meetings to be in
the churchyard of St. Laurence Poultney, and the weavers of Brabant in the
churchyard of St. Mary Sommerset. There were then in this city weavers of
divers sorts; to wit, of drapery, or tapery, and napery. These weavers of
Candlewright street being in short time worn out, their place is now
possessed by rich drapers, sellers of woollen cloth, etc.
On the north side of this ward, at the west end of Eastcheape, have ye St.
Clement’s lane; a part whereof on both sides is of Candlewick street ward,
to wit, somewhat north beyond the parish church of St. Clement in
Eastcheape. This is a small church, void of monuments, other than of
Francis Barnam, alderman, who deceased 1575, and of Benedicke Barnam,
his son, alderman also, 1598. William Chartney and William Overie
founded a chantry there.
Next is St. Nicholas lane, for the most part on both sides of this ward,
almost to St. Nicholas church. Then is Abchurch lane, which is on both the

sides almost wholly of this ward, the parish church there (called of St.
Marie Abchurch, Apechurch, or Upchurch, as I have read it), standeth
somewhat near unto the south end thereof, on a rising ground: it is a fair
church. Simon de Winchcomb founded a chantry there the 19th of Richard
II.; John Littleton founded another, and Thomas Hondon another; and hath
the monuments of J. Long, esquire, of Bedfordshire, 1442; William
Wikenson, alderman, 1519; William Jawdrell, tailor, 1440; Sir James
Hawes, mayor 1574; Sir John Branch, mayor 1580; John Miners; William
Kettle, etc.
On the south side of this ward, beginning again at the east, is St. Michael’s
lane, which lane is almost wholly of this ward, on both sides down towards
Thames street, to a well or pump there. On the east side of this lane is
Crooked lane aforesaid, by St. Michael’s church, towards New Fish street.
One the most ancient house in this lane is called the Leaden porch, and
belonged sometime to Sir John Merston. knight, the 1st of Edward IV. It is
now called the Swan in Crooked lane, possessed of strangers, and selling of
Rhenish wine. The parish church of this St. Michael’s was sometime but a
small and homely thing, standing upon part of that ground wherein now
standeth the parsonage-house; and the ground there about was a filthy plot,
by reason of the butchers in Eastcheape, who made the same their laystall.
William de Burgo gave two messuages to that church in Candlewick street,
1317. John Lofkin, stock-fishmonger, four times mayor, built in the same
ground this fair church of St. Michael, and was buried there in the choir,
under a fair tomb, with the images of him and his wife, in alabaster. The
said church hath been since increased with a new choir, and side chapels by
Sir William Walworth, stock-fishmonger, mayor, sometime servant to the
said John Lofkin: also the tomb of Lofkin was removed, and a flat stone of
grey marble garnished with plates of copper laid on him, as it yet remaineth
in the body of the church. This William Walworth is reported to have slain
Jack Straw,[181] but Jack Straw being afterward taken, was first adjudged by
the said mayor, and then executed by the loss of his head in Smithfield.
True it is that this William Walworth, being a man wise, learned, and of an
incomparable manhood,[182] arrested Wat Tyler, a presumptuous rebel, upon
whom no man durst lay hand, whereby he delivered the king and kingdom
from most wicked tyranny of traitors. The mayor arrested him on the head
with a sound blow, whereupon Wat Tyler, furiously struck the mayor with

his dagger, but hurt him not, by reason he was well armed. The mayor,
having received his stroke, drew his basiliard, and grievously wounded Wat
in the neck, and withal gave him a great blow on the head; in the which
conflict, an esquire of the king’s house, called John Cavendish, drew his
sword, and wounded Wat twice or thrice even to the death; and Wat,
spurring his horse, cried to the commons to revenge him: the horse bare him
about eighty feet from the place, and there he fell down half dead; and by
and by they which attended on the king environed him about, so as he was
not seen of his company: many of them thrust him in divers places of his
body, and drew him into the hospital of St. Bartholomew, from whence
again the mayor caused him to be drawn into Smithfield, and there to be
beheaded. In reward of this service (the people being dispersed) the king
commanded the mayor to put a bascinet on his head; and the mayor
requesting why he should do so, the king answered, he being much bound
unto him, would make him knight: the mayor answered, that he was neither
worthy nor able to take such estate upon him, for he was but a merchant,
and had to live by his merchandise only; notwithstanding, the king bade
him to put on his bascinet, and then with a sword in both his hands he
strongly stroke him on the neck, as the manner was then; and the same day
he made three other citizens knights for his sake in the same place; to wit,
John Philpot, Nicholas Brember, and Robert Launde, alderman. The king
gave to the mayor one hundred pounds land by year, and to each of the
other forty pounds land yearly, to them and their heirs for ever.
After this, in the same year, the said Sir William Walworth, founded in the
said parish church of St. Michael a college of a master and nine priests, or
chaplains, and deceased 1385, was there buried in the north chapel by the
choir; but his monument being amongst other by bad people defaced in the
reign of Edward VI., and again since renewed by the fishmongers, for lack
of knowledge of what before had been written in his epitaph, they followed
a fabulous book, and wrote Jack Straw instead of Wat Tilar, a great error
meet to be reformed there and elsewhere; and therefore have I the more at
large discoursed of this matter.
It hath also been, and is now grown to a common opinion, that in reward of
this service done by the said William Walworth against the rebel, King
Richard added to the arms of this city (which was argent, a plain cross
gules) a sword or dagger (for so they term it), whereof I have read no such

record, but to the contrary. I find that in the 4th year of Richard II.,[183] in a
full assembly made in the upper chamber of the Guildhall, summoned by
this William Walworth, then mayor, as well of aldermen as of the common
council, in every ward, for certain affairs concerning the king, it was there
by common consent agreed and ordained, that the old seal of the office of
the mayoralty of the city being very small, old, unapt, and uncomely for the
honour of the city, should be broken, and one other new should be had,
which the said mayor commanded to be made artificially, and honourable
for the exercise of the said office thereafter, in place of the other; in which
new seal, besides the images of Peter and Paul, which of old were rudely
engraven, there should be under the feet of the said images a shield of the
arms of the said city, perfectly graved,[184] with two lions supporting the
same, with two sergeants of arms; another part, one, and two tabernacles, in
which above should stand two angels; between whom, above the said
images of Peter and Paul, shall be set the glorious Virgin. This being done,
the old seal of the office was delivered to Richard Odiham, chamberlain,
who brake it, and in place thereof was delivered the new seal to the said
mayor, to use in his office of mayoralty, as occasion should require. This
new seal seemeth to be made before William Walworth was knighted, for he
is not here entitled Sir, as afterwards he was; and certain it is that the same
new seal then made is now in use, and none other in that office of the
mayoralty; which may suffice to answer the former fable, without showing
of any evidence sealed with the old seal, which was the cross and sword of
St. Paul, and not the dagger of William Walworth.
Now of other monuments in that church. Simon Mordon, mayor 1368, was
buried there; John Olney, mayor 1446; Robert March, stock-fishmonger,
gave two pieces of ground to be a churchyard; John Radwell, stock-
fishmonger, buried 1415; George Gowre, esquire, son to Edward Gowre,
stock-fishmonger, esquire, 1470; Alexander Purpoynt, stock-fishmonger,
1373; Andrew Burel, gentleman of Gray’s-inn, 1487; John Shrow, stock-
fishmonger, 1487, with this epitaph:

“Farewell, my friends, the tide abideth no man,
I am departed hence, and so shall ye.
But in this passage the best song that I can,
Is requiem æternam, now Jesus grant it me,
When I have ended all mine adversitie,

Grant me in Paradise to have a mansion,
That sheddest thy blood for my redemption.”
John Finkell, one of the sheriffs 1487, was knighted, and gave forty pounds
to this church, the one half for his monument. John Pattesley, mayor 1441;
Thomas Ewen, grocer, bare half the charges in building of the steeple, and
was buried 1501; William Combes, gentleman, of Stoke, by Guilford in
Surrey, 1502; Sir John Brudge, mayor 1530, gave fifty pounds for a house
called the College in Crooked lane; he lieth buried in St. Nicholas Hacon.
Waltar Faireford; Robert Barre; Alexander Heyban; John Motte; John
Gramstone; John Brampton; John Wood, stock-fishmonger, 1531; Sir Henry
Amcots, mayor 1548, etc. Hard by this St. Michael’s church, on the south
side thereof, in the year 1560, on the fifth of July, through the shooting of a
gun, which brake in the house of one Adrian Arten, a Dutchman, and set fire
on a firkin and barrel of gunpowder, four houses were blown up, and divers
other sore shattered; eleven men and women were slain, and sixteen so hurt
and bruised, that they hardly escaped with life.
West from this St. Michael’s lane is St. Martin Orgar lane, by Candlewick
street, which lane is on both sides down to a well, replenished with fair and
large houses for merchants, and it is of this ward; one of which houses was
sometime called Beachamp’s inn, as pertaining unto them of that family.
Thomas Arundel, archbishop of Canterbury, commonly for his time was
lodged there.
The parish church of St. Martin Orgar is a small thing. William Crowmer,
mayor, built a proper chapel on the south side thereof, and was buried there
1533; John Mathew, mayor 1490; Sir William Huet, mayor 1559, with his
lady and daughter, wife to Sir Edward Osburne; Ralph Tabinham, alderman;
Alice, wife to Thomas Winslow; Thorudon; Benedicke Reding; Thomas
Harding; James Smith; Richard Gainford, esquire; John Bold, etc.
Then is there one other lane called St. Laurence, of the parish church there.
This lane, down to the south side of the churchyard, is of Candlewick street
ward. The parish church of St. Laurence was increased with a chapel of
Jesus by Thomas Cole, for a master and chaplain; the which chapel and
parish church was made a college of Jesus and of Corpus Christi, for a
master and seven chaplains, by John Poultney, mayor, and was confirmed
by Edward III., the 20th of his reign: of him was this church called St.

Laurence Poultney, in Candlewick street; which college was valued at £79
17s. 11d., and was surrendered in the reign of Edward VI. Robert Ratcliffe,
Earl of Essex, and Henry Ratcliffe, Earl of Sussex, was buried there;
Alderman Beswicke was buried there; John Oliffe, alderman, Robert
Browne, and others. Thus much for this ward, and the antiquities thereof. It
hath now an alderman, his deputy, common councillors eight, constables
eight, scavengers six, wardmote inquest men twelve, and a beadle. It is
taxed to the fifteen at sixteen pounds.

WALBROOK WARD
Walbrook ward beginneth at the west end of Candlewick street ward. It
runneth down Candlewick street west towards Budge row. It hath on the
north side thereof St. Swithen’s lane, so called of St. Swithen, a parish
church by London stone. This lane is replenished on both the sides with fair
built houses, and is wholly of Walbrook ward.
The said parish church of St. Swithen standeth at the south-west corner of
this lane. License was procured to new build and increase the said church
and steeple in the year 1420. Sir John Hend, draper, mayor, was an especial
benefactor thereunto, as appeareth by his arms in the glass windows, even
in the tops of them, which is in a field silver, a chief azure, a lion passant
silver, a cheveron azure, three escalops silver: he lieth buried in the body of
this church, with a fair stone laid on him, but the plates and inscriptions are
defaced. Roger Depham, alderman, Thomas Aylesbourgh, William Neve,
and Matilda Caxton, founded chantries, and were buried there; John Butler,
draper, one of the sheriffs, 1420; Ralph Jecoline, mayor, a benefactor,
buried in a fair tomb; William White, draper, one of the sheriffs, 1482, and
other.
On the north side of this church and churchyard is one fair and large built
house, sometime pertaining to the prior of Tortington in Sussex, since to the
earls of Oxford, and now to Sir John Hart, alderman; which house hath a
fair garden belonging thereunto, lying on the west side thereof. On the back
side of two other fair houses in Walbrook, in the reign of Henry VII., Sir
Richard Empson, knight, chancellor of the duchy of Lancaster, dwelt in the
one of them, and Edmond Dudley, esquire, in the other; either of them had a
door of intercourse into this garden, wherein they met and consulted of
matters at their pleasures. In this Oxford place Sir Ambrose Nicholas kept
his mayoralty, and since him the said Sir John Hart.
On the south side of this high street, near unto the channel, is pitched
upright a great stone called London stone, fixed in the ground very deep,
fastened with bars of iron, and otherwise so strongly set, that if carts do run

against it through negligence, the wheels be broken, and the stone itself
unshaken.
The cause why this stone was set there, the time when, or other memory
hereof, is none, but that the same hath long continued there is manifest,
namely, since (or rather before) the Conquest; for in the end of a fair written
Gospel book given to Christ’s church in Canterburie, by Ethelstane, King of
the West Saxons, I find noted of lands[185] or rents in London belonging to
the said church, whereof one parcel is described to lie near unto London
stone. Of later time we read, that in the year of Christ 1135, the 1st of King
Stephen, a fire, which began in the house of one Ailward, near unto London
stone, consumed all east to Aldgate, in the which fire the priory of the Holy
Trinitie was burnt, and west to St. Erkenwald’s shrine in Paule’s church.
And these be the eldest notes that I read thereof.
Some have said this stone to be set as a mark in the middle of the city
within the walls; but in truth it standeth far nearer unto the river of Thames
than to the wall of the city; some others have said the same to be set for the
tendering and making of payment by debtors to their creditors at their
appointed days and times, till of later time payments were more usually
made at the font in Pont’s church, and now most commonly at the Royal
Exchange; some again have imagined the same to be set up by one John or
Thomas Londonstone dwelling there against; but more likely it is, that such
men have taken name of the stone than the stone of them, as did John at
Noke, Thomas at Stile, William at Wall, or at Well, etc.
Down west from this parish church, and from London stone, have ye
Walbrooke corner; from whence runneth up a street, north to the Stocks,
called Walbrook, because it standeth on the east side of the same brook, by
the bank thereof, and the whole ward taketh the name of that street. On the
east side of this street, and at the north corner thereof, is the Stocks market,
which had this beginning. About the year of Christ 1282, Henry Wales,
mayor, caused divers houses in this city to be built towards the maintenance
of London bridge, namely, one void place near unto the parish church called
Woole church, on the north side thereof, where sometime (the way being
very large and broad) had stood a pair of stocks for punishment of
offenders; this building took name of these stocks, and was appointed by
him to be a market place for fish and flesh in the midst of the city. Other
houses he built in other places, as by the patent of Edward I. it doth appear,