Mission Furniture_ How to Make It_ Part 3 H. H. Windsor 1307 downloads.pdf

The Project Gutenberg eBook of Mission Furniture: How to
Make It, Part 3
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will
have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using
this eBook.

Title: Mission Furniture: How to Make It, Part 3

Author: H. H. Windsor

Release date: November 30, 2007 [eBook #23666]

Language: English

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/23666

Credits: Produced by K Nordquist, Ross Wilburn and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION
FURNITURE: HOW TO MAKE IT, PART 3 ***

MISSION FURNITURE

HOW TO MAKE IT

PART THREE

POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS
CHICAGO

POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY

Copyrighted, 1912

BY H. H. WINDSOR

This book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being
published by the Popular Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these books are
"written so you can understand it," and are intended to furnish information
on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all.
The texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this Handbook
Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and have been revised by the editor of
Popular Mechanics.
The dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of each
piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material mill-planed,
sanded and cut to length. If the workman desires to have a complete home-
made article, allowance must be made in the dimensions for planing and
squaring the pieces. S-4-S and S-2-S are abbreviations for surface four sides
and surface two sides.

CONTENTS

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
A PIANO BENCH 5
A LIBRARY TABLE 7

A PRINCESS DRESSER 10
A SEWING BOX 14
A FERN STAND 17
A WARDROBE 20
A FINISH 24
AN OAK TABLE 25
BOOK TROUGH 28
AN OAK SERVING TABLE 30
AN UMBRELLA STAND 33
A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET 35
A WRITING DESK 38
MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND 41
A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND 43
A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR 47
A WALL SHELF 50
A PEDESTAL 53
MAGAZINE RACK 55
A HALL TREE 58
A TABLE FOR THE DEN 60
A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT 64
QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE 67
A SCREEN 71, 94
A MISSION BOOKRACK 74
A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE 75
AN ARM DINING CHAIR 79
A HALL BENCH 82
A SEWING TABLE 84
A SIDE CHAIR 88
ANOTHER PIANO BENCH 91
ANOTHER SCREEN 95
A FOLDING CARD TABLE 97
MAGAZINE STAND 102
A TABOURET 105
A PORCH SWING 109
A FOOT WARMER 111
A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM 113
A MISSION SIDEBOARD 116

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Piano Bench in Black Walnut 5
Detail of the Piano Bench 6
Detail of the Library Table 8
The Finished Library Table 9
Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak 11
Detail of the Princess Dresser 12
Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash 13
Detail of the Sewing Box 16
Detail of the Fern Stand 18
Finished Stand in Quartered Oak 19
The Wardrobe Complete 21
Detail of the Wardrobe 23
Detail of Construction 26
Finished Table 26
Detail of Book Trough 28
Book Trough Complete 29
Serving Table Complete 30
Detail of Serving Table 32
Umbrella Stand 33
Detail of Umbrella Stand 34
Buffet in Quartered Oak 35
Method of Fastening with Screws 36
Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet 37
Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak 39
Detail of the Writing Desk 40
Complete Stand 41
Detail of the Stand 42
Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand 44
Stand Made in Oak 45
Arm Chair Complete 47
Detail of the Arm Chair 48
Complete Wall Shelf 51
Wall Shelf Detail 52

Completed Pedestal 53
Detail of Pedestal 54
Detail of the Magazine Rack 55
Magazine Rack Complete 56
Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree 59
Table Completed 62
Detail of a Den Table 63
Fig. 1—The Rough Cedar Box Without the Covering 64
Fig. 2—Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the Burlap 66
Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak 68
Detail of the Oak Settee 70
Detail of One Section 72
Screen of Three Sections 73
Detail of the Bookrack 74
The Complete Bookrack 75
Detail of the Table 76
Table for the Dining-Room Set 77
Armchair of the Dining-Room Set 79
Detail of the Armchair 81
Detail of the Hall Bench 82
Bench Made of Plain Oak 83
Sewing Table in Plain Oak 85
Detail of the Sewing Table 86
Construction of the Drawer 87
Side Chair of Dining-Room Set 89
Detail of the Side Chair 90
Detail of the Piano Bench 92
Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak 93
Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels 95
Detail of the Frame 97
Detail of the Card Table 98
Card Table Ready for Use 99
The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top 101
Stand Complete 103
Detail of Stand 104
Detail of Tabouret 106
Finished Tabouret 107

Complete Porch Swing 108
Detail of the Porch Swing 110
Detail of the Foot Warmer 112
Oak Stool with Brass Cover 113
Detail of Plate Rack 114
Dining-Room Plate Rack 115
Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set 116
Detail of the Sideboard 118

A PIANO BENCH

Piano Bench in Black Walnut
The piano bench shown in the accompanying picture was made of black
walnut and was finished natural. The finish was applied in the following
manner: First, all the parts were well scraped and sandpapered, then the
surface was covered with a coating of boiled linseed oil. After this had
stood several hours, or until it had had time to penetrate the wood, the
surplus liquid was wiped off with a flannel cloth. After the oil had stood for
48 hours, a thin coat of shellac was applied and allowed to harden
overnight. The next morning this shellac was sandpapered lightly with No.
00 paper and a coat of floor wax was applied according to the directions
which are found upon every can. Two more coats of wax were applied after
intervals of half an hour and the finish was completed. The effect is very

pleasing. The oil brings out the rich color of the wood and the shellac and
wax serve to preserve the color. The following stock is needed:

1 top, 1 by 16-1/2 by 40-1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.
2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.
2 lower rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
1 stretcher, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.
6 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 11 in., S-2-S.

With the exception of the legs all the stock is specified mill-planed to
thickness upon two surfaces. The legs are specified planed on four sides.
Square the legs to length and the rails, stretcher, slats, etc., to width and
length.

Detail of the Piano Bench
Lay out and work the tenons of the rails and stretcher. The slats are best
made without tenons, the whole end of each slat being "housed" into the
rails. The reason for this is obvious—it is a difficult matter to fit two or
more pieces between fixed parts when their ends are tenoned. When the
ends are housed any slight variation in the lengths adjusts itself. It is

necessary, however, to chisel the sides of the mortises carefully, but this is a
simple matter compared with getting the shoulders of the tenons, etc., all
just alike.
Assemble the parts, using good hot glue. Put the ends of the bench together
first. When the glue has hardened on these, place the stretcher and side rails.
Fasten the top to the frame from the under side, either by glued blocks and
screws or by angle irons.

A LIBRARY TABLE
A library table of neat appearance and correct proportions is shown in the
accompanying sketch and detail drawing. This table looks best when
finished in quarter-sawed oak, although any of the other furniture woods
can be used if desired. If the material is ordered from the mill cut to length,
squared and sanded, much of the hard labor can be avoided. Order the
following pieces:

4 legs, 2 by 2 by 30-1/4 in., S-4-S.
1 top, 1-1/8 by 30 by 42 in., S-4-S.
2 end pieces, 3/4 by 17-1/8 by 29 in., S-2-S.
2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 25-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 lower brace, 3/4 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.
4 shelves, 3/4 by 7 by 29 in., S-4-S.
8 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 17-1/8 in., S-4-S.
2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.
4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 3-3/4 by 14 in., soft wood.
2 drawer ends, 3/8 by 3-3/8 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.
2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 13-1/4 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.
2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 23-1/2 in., soft wood.
2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 25 in., soft wood.

Detail of the Library Table
Start work on the legs by beveling the tops and squaring them up and laying
out the mortises for the shelves as shown in section BB. Care should be
taken to get the legs mortised in pairs and all cut the same height. This is
best done by placing the four legs side by side with the ends square, and
then laying out the mortises across all four at once with a try-square.

The Finished Library Table
The table top is made of several boards which are doweled and glued
together. Be careful to get the best side of each board up and have the joints
a tight fit. The corners should be cut out for the posts as shown. The posts
are to be fastened to the board by means of screws. The holes can be
counterbored for the heads and then plugged. The top rails are also fastened
to the top board by means of screws.
The end pieces can now be made. Two or more boards will have to be glued
together for these. The top corners will have to be cut to fit about the top
rails. Cleats can be used in fastening them to the top board. The shelves also
have the corners cut to fit into the mortises in the posts. They are held to the
end boards by means of screws.
If the parts all fit perfectly square and tight, they can be glued and screwed
together, which will complete the table except for the slats and drawers. The
slats can be fastened on with nails, then the heads covered with fancy nails
which can be secured for this purpose. The drawer supports can now be put
in. They are screwed to the end boards as shown. A bottom brace should be

fastened under the lower shelves to help steady the table. The two drawers
are made as shown in the detail sketch. No handles are needed as the lower
edge of the front board can be used for pulling them out.
When the table is complete it should be carefully gone over with fine
sandpaper and all rough spots removed. Scrape the glue from about the
joints as finish will not take where there is any glue. Apply the stain
preferred or the one that matches the other furniture. This can be any of the
many stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.

A PRINCESS DRESSER

Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak
A design of a princess dresser that is well proportioned and of pleasing
appearance is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. The
cost is very moderate and if a mill is not too far away, a great amount of
labor can be saved by ordering the material ready cut to length, squared and

sanded. Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the material needed will be
as follows:

4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.
1 top board, 3/4 by 17 by 37 in., S-2-S.
5 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 end panels, 1/4 by 16-1/4 by 16-3/4 in., S-4-S.
1 drawer partition, 1 by 7-3/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 back board, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 36 in., S-2-S.
2 mirror supports, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.
2 side pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 42 in., S-4-S.
2 end pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 drawer front, 3/4 by 7 by 36 in., S-4-S.
1 20 by 38 bevel mirror.

The following pieces may be of any soft wood:

5 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in.
6 drawer sides, 1/2 by 7 by 17 in.
2 drawer bottoms, 1/2 by 17 by 17 in.
1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 17 by 35-1/2 in.
4-1/2 sq. ft. of 3/8-in. pine for back.

First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. Either
chamfer or round the upper ends as desired. The mortises can now be laid
out and cut or they can be left until the rail tenons are all made and then
marked and cut directly from each tenon. The posts as well as the end rails
should have grooves cut in them to take the 1/4-in. end panels.
The top board should have the corners cut to fit about the posts. The corners
of the back board should be rounded as shown in the drawing.
The end sections of the dresser can be glued together first, care being taken
to get the joints square and tight. When these are dry the side rails and
drawer slides can be fitted and glued in place. The top board is held in

position by means of screws through cleats which are fastened to the inner
sides of the rails.

Detail of the Princess Dresser
The mirror frame is made by mortising the end pieces with the side pieces
as shown. It is rabbeted on the back to hold a 20 by 38-in. mirror. After the
mirror is securely fastened in the frame a thin wood covering should be
tacked on the back to protect the glass. The frame swings between two
upright posts which are securely fastened to the body of the dresser as
shown.

The drawers are made and fitted in the usual manner. The drawing shows
two drawers in the top compartment, but one exactly like the lower can be
made and used instead by simply leaving out the 1 in. partition. Suitable
handles for the drawers can be purchased at any hardware store.
The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner. Scrape all
surplus glue from about the joints as the stain will not take where there is
any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper and apply the stain desired,
which may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this
purpose.

A SEWING BOX
A rather unique sewing box, and one that is quite as convenient as unique,
is shown in the illustration. The material is walnut and ash. The posts are
walnut and the slats and top rail ash. Both are finished in their natural
colors. The following is the stock bill:

4 posts, 1-1/2 in. in diameter and 15 in. long, walnut.
1 bottom, 3/8 by 16-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S, walnut.
4 top rails, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S, ash.
4 under rails, 5/8 by 3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S, walnut.
72 slats, 1/8 by 5/8 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S, ash.

In ordering the stock it will be wise to combine the lengths of pieces having
like widths and thicknesses.
If not possible to secure doweling of the diameter indicated for the verticals,
it is an easy matter to take a square piece of stock, lay it off and work it into
an eight-sided prism. After this, the arrises may again be planed until it has
16 and then 32 sides. The rest may be removed with sandpaper. Or it is
possible that curtain pole stock will be available. Saw these posts to length
and leave the ends square.

Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash
Square up the stock for the other parts. Work the bottom piece to a 16-in.
square. The rails are not to be squared on the ends but are to be mitered
each in turn. The bottom is fastened to the posts by metal brackets.

Detail of the Sewing Box
Chisel out recesses in the posts so that the bottom may be inserted. Insert
the corners and use glue and nails to hold them in place. Place the lower of
the two top rails, notching out the posts as is necessary to bring the inner
edge of these rails in position. Fasten to the posts. Miter and place the top
rails. The slats, it will be noted, are fastened to the bottom from the outer
side and to the lower of the two top rails from the inner side. Brass-headed
tacks such as upholsterers use are required.

In finishing, sandpaper all parts and then apply a coat of boiled linseed oil.
Allow this to stand a half hour or so and then wipe the surface clean. After
this has dried thoroughly apply a thin coating of shellac and allow it to
harden. Sand the shellac when hard with No. 00 sandpaper and then apply
several coats of wax, polishing in the usual manner.
Two pairs of castors will add to the ease with which the box may be moved
about.

A FERN STAND
When making the fern stand shown in the accompanying sketch use
quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for finishing
in the different mission stains. Considerable labor can be saved in its
construction by ordering the stock from the mill ready cut to length, squared
and sanded. Order the following pieces:

4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.
8 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 shelf supports, 3/4 by 1 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 16 in., S-4-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 15 by 15 in., S-4-S.
16 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 5 in., S-4-S.

The legs are made first. Be sure they are square and of equal length. The
mortises can be laid out and cut or they can be left until the tenons on the
side rails are all made, then marked and cut from each tenon. The top rails
and the slats are exactly alike for the four sides, as the table is square. In
addition to the tenons on the rails, grooves should be cut in each for the
ends of the slats to fit into as shown in the cross section in the detail
drawing. Holes should be cut in the slats as shown.

Detail of the Fern Stand
The top board should have the corners cut out to fit around the posts. It is
held in place by means of screws through cleats which are fastened to the
inner sides of the top rails.
The bottom board or shelf rests upon two rails that are mortised into the
posts as shown. The top and bottom boards should be of one piece if
possible, otherwise two or more boards will have to be glued together.
Before gluing up the joints see that all the pieces fit together square and
tight. The posts and rails should be glued and assembled, then the top and
bottom boards put in place to hold the frame square when the clamps are
put on.

Finished Stand in Quartered Oak
Leave to dry for about 24 hours before removing the clamps. Fasten the top
and bottom boards in place and then go over the stand with fine sandpaper
and remove all surplus glue and rough spots.

A WARDROBE
The wardrobe or clothes closet shown in the accompanying sketch and
detail drawing will be found a great convenience in a bedroom where closet
space is limited or where there is no closet at all. It provides ample room for
hanging suits, dresses and other wearing apparel, as well as space for boots
and shoes. It can be made of any of the several furniture woods in common
use, but quarter-sawed oak will be found to give the most pleasing effect.
The stock should be ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared and
sanded. In this way much labor will be saved. The following pieces will be
needed:

4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 64-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 front rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 top and 1 bottom board, each 3/4 by 18-1/2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
1 top back rail, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
6 end rails, 3/4 by 6 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 end uprights, 3/4 by 4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
8 end panels, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
5 shelves, 3/4 by 17-3/4 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 8-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 door, 3/4 by 7-3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S.
1 shelf partition, 3/4 by 10 by 19 in., S-4-S.
2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17 in., S-4-S.
1 drawer front, 3/4 by 8 by 17 in., S-4-S.
1 partition (several pieces), 3/4 by 19-1/2 by 57-3/4 in., S-4-S.
4 door uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.
2 top rails, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 middle rails, 3/4 by 6 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 lower rails, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 center uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 23 in., S-4-S.
8 panels, 3/8 by 6 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 pieces, 3/8 by 4-3/4 by 19 in., soft wood.

2 pieces, 3/8 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.
2 pieces, 3/8 by 4-1/4 by 8 in., soft wood.
4 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19 in., soft wood.
3 pieces, 1/2 by 16-1/2 by 19 in., soft wood.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 6-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.
1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.
1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 36 by 58 in., S-2-S.

The Wardrobe Complete

First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. The upper
ends can be chamfered or rounded if desired. The two front posts are alike,
as are the back ones. The mortises should be laid out in each pair of posts
and then cut with a sharp chisel, or they can be left until the tenons are all
made, and then marked and cut from each tenon. Grooves should be cut on
one side of all the posts to take the end panels.
The front and lower back rails are plain except for the tenons at each end,
but the end rails and the center uprights should have grooves cut for the
panels the same as the posts. The top back rail serves as a top back board
and should have the corners rounded as shown in the detail drawing.
The frame can now be assembled. Glue should be used on all the joints as it
makes them much stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together perfectly
square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and the shelves.
The top and bottom boards should have the corners cut to clear the posts.
The closet is divided into two compartments by a partition. This can be
made of plain boards or panels similar to those in the ends, as desired. Place
the shelves in position as shown. They are held in place by means of cleats
and screws. The one shelf has a partition in its center with a door on one
side and two small drawers on the other. Drawers should be fitted to three
of the other compartments. They are made in the usual manner except that
the front boards should be cut out at the top for a handhold as shown.
The doors are fitted by a tenon and mortise joint at the ends. They have a
centerpiece and panels to match the ends of the closet. Suitable hinges and a
catch should be supplied. These can be purchased at any hardware store.

Detail of the Wardrobe
The backing is put on in the usual manner. It should be finished on the front
side.
When complete, the closet should be carefully gone over with fine
sandpaper and all glue and rough spots removed. Apply stain of the desired
color. This may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for
this purpose.

A FINISH
An appropriate finish is obtained as follows: First thoroughly scrape and
sandpaper the various parts, then apply a coat of brown Flemish water stain.
Allow this to dry well, then sand it lightly with No. 00 sandpaper to lay the
grain. Again apply the Flemish stain, but this time have it weakened by the
addition of an equal amount of water. When dry, sand again as on the first
coat. Upon the second coat of stain apply a thin coat of shellac. This is to
protect the high lights from the stain in the filler which is to follow. Sand
lightly, then apply a paste filler of a sufficiently dark shade to make a dark
field for the brown Flemish. Clean off the surplus and polish in the usual
manner.
Upon the filler, after it has hardened overnight, apply a coat of orange
shellac. Successively apply several coats of some good rubbing varnish.
Polish the first coats with haircloth or curled hair, and the last with
pulverized pumice stone, mixed with raw linseed or crude oil.

AN OAK TABLE
The accompanying illustration shows another style of a mission table. The
stock for this table if ordered as follows and sanded will require only the
work of making the joints and putting them together:

4 posts, 2 in, square 30-5/8 in., S-4-S.
4 upper rails, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 top pieces, 7/8 by 12-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.
6 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.
1 stretcher, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-2-S.

This table may be made with mortise and tenon joints or with dowels as
desired. If dowels are used, the upper and lower rails should be made 2 in.
shorter than shown in the drawing.
Be sure to get the pieces for the posts with their surfaces square to each
other and their ends sawed square off. This will simplify the assembling a
great deal. Make the posts exactly the same length, 30-1/2 in., and chamfer
a 3/8-in, bevel on their tops.
Square up the four upper rails, 6 by 22 in., marking the working face and
edge to work from when laying out the tenons later. Square up the two
lower rails, 2-1/2 by 22 in. These must be exactly the same length as the
upper rails. The two ends of the table having the slats should be glued up
first. Lay out the tenons on the upper and lower rails for these two ends and
be sure to work from the marked face and edges, using a knife line. Cut the
tenons, and, by placing them against the posts in the exact position they are
to occupy, mark the places for the mortises. These joints should be
numbered so that each mortise may be cut to fit its own tenon.

Detail of Construction

Finished Table
Square up the slats, 3 by 15-1/8 in., and cut mortises in the upper and lower
rails 1/4 in. deep to let them in. The number of these slats, their size and
spacing may be arranged to suit one's own idea. Put the posts, upper and
lower rails, and slats together without glue first to determine if the parts fit
properly, and then glue and clamp them together. Hot glue will hold best, if
the room and lumber are warm; if not, it is best to use ordinary liquid glue.
While the glue on these two ends of the table is setting, the other upper
rails, top, and stretcher may be finished.

The top will have to be made of two or three pieces joined together with
dowels and glue. If possible, use only two boards and be sure the grain in
both pieces runs the same way when they are put together.
After the ends which were glued have set at least 24 hours, the clamps may
be taken off and the other two upper rails tenoned and mortised in place.
The stretcher may be held with two 3/8-in. dowels in each end, or with two
round-head screws put through the lower rails. When gluing up the whole
table, be sure the sides are square to each other. The top may now be
squared up 24 by 24 in. and the corners cut out for the top of the posts. The
top may be fastened as shown at A and B in the drawing, or by cleats
screwed to the inside of the upper rails and top.
Before staining, be sure that all surplus glue is scraped off and the surfaces
sanded clean. A weathered or fumed oak stain is suitable for this table. A
good weathered oak stain may be made by mixing a little drop black ground
in oil with turpentine and a little linseed oil. Put this stain on with a brush
and allow to stand until it begins to flatten or dull, then rub off across the
grain with a rag or piece of cotton waste. When thoroughly dry, apply one
coat of very thin shellac. After this has dried, finish with two coats of wax.
The shellac prevents the turpentine in the wax from rubbing out the stain.
To get a good wax finish the work should dry until it will not show finger
marks, before rubbing.

BOOK TROUGH

Detail of Book Trough
A very cheap but attractive book trough is shown in the accompanying
photograph. This piece of mission furniture will be found useful in the
home or office and can be made by anyone who has a slight knowledge of
tools. The material should be either oak or chestnut, which can be secured
from the planing mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the tenons and
mortises. The stock needed will be as follows:

2 ends, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 31 in., S-2-S.
1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 35 in., S-1-S.
2 trough pieces, 7/8 in. by 4 in. by 35 in., S-2-S.
8 keys, 5/8 in. by 5/8 in. by 3 in.

Book Trough Complete
The two end pieces should be made first with the top corners rounded off
and the lower end, which is of simple design, can be cut out with a bracket
saw and smoothed with a wood rasp. The mortises should then be laid out
according to the sketch and cut, by first boring 3/4-in. holes and finishing
with a chisel, being careful to keep all edges clean and free from slivers.
The shelf can now be made by cutting a double-key tenon at each end to fit
the end pieces. The space between the two tenons at each end can be cut out
with a bracket saw and finished with a rasp. The key holes should be

mortised as shown in the sketch. The trough pieces are made in a similar
manner, care being taken to have all tenons and mortises perfectly square
and a good fit, so the trough when assembled will have a neat and
workmanlike appearance. The trough can be finished in any one of the
many mission finishes which are supplied by the trade for this purpose.

AN OAK SERVING TABLE
The serving table is another useful piece of furniture that can be made in
mission style. This table should be made in quarter-sawed oak and stained
very light. The stock order is as follows:

2 posts, 2 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
2 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.
1 top, 1 by 21 by 40 in., S-2-S.
2 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.
1 back panel, 3/4 by 4 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
1 stretcher, 1 by 5 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 slat, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.

Serving Table Complete
The four posts are ordered 1 in. longer than necessary for squaring to length
and the two back posts should be chamfered 1/4 in. on top, as they are the
longest and project above the back panel. All of the posts are cut tapering
for a space of 4 in. from the bottom ends. Mortises in the posts and tenons
on the rails are laid out and cut as shown by the dimensions in the drawing.
These parts are then well glued and put together. The top, which should be
of well seasoned wood, is cut to fit around the back posts so the back edge
and the back side of the posts are flush. The back panel is placed in mortises
cut in the corners of the back posts. This is done so the back surface of the

panel will be flush the same as the edge of the top. The slat is fastened with
round-headed brass screws on the front of the two back posts about half
way between the top and the ends of the posts.

Detail of Serving Table
The top may be fastened to the rails by one of two methods. One way is to
use a small button made of wood and so mortised as to set in the rails and
then fastened to the top with screws. About six of these buttons will be
sufficient to hold the top in place. The other method is to bore a hole
slanting on the inside of the rails, directing the bit toward the top, which
will make a seat—if not cut too deep—for a screw that can be turned direct
into the top.
The glue must be removed from about the joints and the surfaces smoothed
over with fine sandpaper before applying the stain. The directions for
staining will be found on the can in which it is sold. The grain of the wood
will show up well if the surface is given a dull waxed finish after staining.

AN UMBRELLA STAND
T
h
e
u

Detail of Umbrella Stand Umbrella Stand

mbrella stand shown in the accompanying illustration will be found quite
appropriate for the hall or reception room that is furnished in mission style.
It can be made of any of the furniture woods, but quarter-sawed oak gives

the best results. The stock necessary to make this stand can be secured from
the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded, and is given in the
following list:

4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.
4 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.
4 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-2-S.
4 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 20 in., S-2-S.
1 bottom, 7/8 by 10 by 10 in.

First square up the posts and bevel the tops as shown in the detail sketch.
Place them side by side, on a flat surface with the ends square and lay out
the mortises with a try-square on all four pieces at the same time. This will
insure your getting them all straight and of the same height. Now lay out the
tenons on the rails in the same manner and cut them to fit the mortises in
the posts. Mortises should also be cut in the rails for the ends of the side
slats as shown. Try all the joints and see that they fit tight and square. Glue
two sides of the stand together and let them dry for at least 24 hours, then
glue the remaining parts, being careful to get everything together perfectly
square.
The bottom board can now be fitted in place. It should have a hole cut in it
for the drip pan. The pan should be about 6 or 7 in. in diameter. One
suitable for the purpose can be purchased in any hardware store. The
bottom board can be fastened to the rails with nails driven from the under
side, or cleats can be nailed to the rails for it to rest upon.
When the stand is complete, scrape all glue from about the joints and go
over the whole with fine sandpaper, removing all rough spots. Apply the
finish you like best, or the one that will match your other furniture.
Should the builder want an entire hand-made stand, the drip pan may be
beaten into shape from sheet brass or copper. This kind of work is known as
repoussé. After beating the pan into shape, it can be finished in antique, old
copper or given a polished surface, as desired.

A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET
The chafing-dish buffet is something very convenient and attractive for the
dining room. For the best effect it should be made of quartered oak, stained
brown or weathered and trimmed with brass hardware.

Buffet in Quartered Oak

To save a great deal of uninteresting labor, secure the following pieces of
stock, surfaced on four sides and cut to length:

4 legs, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.
4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 10 in., S-4-S.
2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.
2 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 panel, 3/8 by 6-1/2 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 shelves, 7/8 by 12 by 19 in., S-4-S.
1 top, 7/8 by 16 by 20 in., S-4-S.
2 stiles for door, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
2 rails for door, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.
1 back, 7/8 by 12 by 13 in., S-4-S.
8 slats, 3/8 by 1 by 8 in., S-4-S.

Begin the work on the rails for the sides of the stand. Have them all squared
up to exactly the same length and to the correct width and thickness. Mark
the tenons on the ends of each and cut them with a saw and chisel.
When this is finished, try the legs to see that they are all the same length
and that their surfaces are square with each other. Next mark the mortises in
the legs for the tenons of the rails. To make the mortises, first bore to depth
with a bit 1/8 in, smaller than the width of the mortise and cut to the line
with a chisel.

Method of Fastening with Screws
Before gluing up the sides, cut the mortises in two lower rails for the tenons
on the ends of the shelves. These tenons, with the smaller mortises in them
for the keys, should be cut first. Square up the two side panels and cut
grooves 3/8 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep for them in the rails and part of the
legs.

Make the eight slats 8 in. long, 1 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick, and cut mortises
for them in the two upper rails.

Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet
The two sides of the buffet are now ready to be glued up and clamped.
While the glue on these is setting, make the door. The rails are mortised into
the stiles 1/2 in. and both are grooved to receive the panel. It is best to get
the stock a little full for the door so that it may be made up a little larger
than necessary and planed down to fit.
There only remains to fit in the shelves and fasten the top and back. The top
and back are held with screws as shown in sketch.
Taper the keys only slightly, otherwise they will keep working loose.

Stain with two coats of weathered oak, give one coat of thin shellac to fix
the stain and two coats of wax for a soft-gloss finish.

A WRITING DESK
The desk shown in the illustration was made of plain-sawed white oak. The
copper lighting fixtures were made by the amateur as were the hinges and
the drawer pulls. The doors are fitted with art-glass panels. The following
stock list is needed:

1 top, 3/4 by 22-1/2 by 41 in., S-2-S.
4 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.
2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.
2 rails, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
1 stretcher, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.
2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 14 in., S-2-S.
4 drawer sides, 1/2 by 4-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 14 in., S-2-S.
2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 19 by 14 in., S-2-S.
4 slides, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 19 in., S-2-S.
8 guides, 3/4 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.
2 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 16 in., S-4-S.
4 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 11 in., S-4-S.
1 back, 3/4 by 16 by 35 in., S-2-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 8 by 35 in., S-2-S.
2 shelves, 3/4 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.
4 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 15 in., S-2-S.
8 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 4 in., S-2-S.

Square the legs to length and lay out and cut the mortises thereon. Lay off
the tenons on the rails, after having squared the rails to length and width,
and cut them.
Work up the top of the table and then the drawer stock and cabinet.
Assemble the ends of the frame first, using good hot glue and enough
clamps to hold the parts together properly. After the glue has hardened on

these, the clamps may be removed and the front, back rails and the stretcher
assembled.

Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak
While the glue is hardening on the main frame the top cabinet may be built
and assembled. This cabinet is detachable from the table proper and is to be
held in place by means of cleats upon the back. These cleats are not
specified in the bill; they may be obtained from scrap stock.

Detail of the Writing Desk
For a piece of woodwork of this style some of the softer browns of the
mission stains will be most appropriate. After all parts have been
thoroughly cleaned by scraping and sandpapering, a stain may be applied.
Allow this to dry, then sand it lightly and apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand
the shellac lightly and apply a filler of a color to match the stain, but darker
in tone, of course. Clean off the surplus in the usual manner and then apply
a coat of shellac. Sand this lightly and apply several coats of some good
polishing wax.

MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND
The illustration shows a very handy music and bookstand, which also can
be used at the bedside as a reading stand. The following list of material will
be required for construction:

1 standard, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 37 in., S-4-S.
1 horizontal, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 15 in., S-4-S.
1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.
1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 12 in., S-4-S.
2 braces, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 9 in., S-4-S.
1 board, 1/2 by 8 by 13 in., S-2-S.
4 blocks, 1-1/8 in. square.
2 gauge clamps.
1 strip, 1/2 by 1 by 13 in., S-2-S.
8 round-head brass screws.
1 brass rod, 1/4 in. in diameter and 12 in, long.
1 brass piece, 1/4 by 3/4 by 10 in.

Complete Stand
Cut a tenon on the lower end of the upright and make a mortise in the center
of the long crosspiece to receive the tenon. The horizontal has tenons cut on
both ends which fit into mortises cut in the sides of both crosspieces. The
upper corners on the ends of both crosspieces are cut sloping on a 45-deg.
angle. The blocks for the feet are attached to the under side and at the end
on each crosspiece with screws and hot glue, the screw heads being sunk so
that they will not catch on carpets or mar the floor. The braces are attached
with round-head screws after they are cut on each end to fit the standard
and crosspiece.

Detail of the Stand
The book rest is cut from the board. The openings are made by sawing the
pieces out with a coping saw, and the edges are dressed up with a sharp
chisel. The lip strip is then glued to the lower edge of the board.
One end of the board is now fitted into a slot cut in one of the gauge
clamps. The slot must be cut at the right angle to give the desired slope to
the book rest. The gauge clamps are joined with two small square strips of
oak as shown. The small rod brace is flattened at both ends and a hole
drilled in each to fasten it with screws as shown. The brass strip is bent in

the middle at right angles and drilled to receive screws for fastening it in the
corner of the upright and horizontal pieces.

A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND
The accompanying picture shows a stand that is intended primarily for
holding a large-size dictionary. The shelves may be utilized for holding
books, magazines or sheet music. It will stand wear best if made of some
hard wood, such as oak. Of the soft woods chestnut has the best grain for
finishing, being hardly distinguishable from red oak.
The following pieces will be necessary:

2 sides, 3/4 by 16 by 38-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 14 by 17 in., S-2-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 13-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.
1 top, 3/4 by 13 by 17 in., S-2-S.
1 lip, 3/8 by 3/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
8 keys, 3/4 by 1 by 3-1/2 in., S-2-S.

Begin work on the sides by preparing a joint edge on each piece and from
this square up the lower ends and square lines across the inner surfaces to
indicate the positions of the lower edges of the shelves.
Next, smooth off the mill marks from the broad surfaces of the shelves and
square them to size on one edge and the two ends.

Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand
Return to the side pieces and lay out the outline, but do not cut to these lines
until the gains and mortises which are to receive the ends of the shelves and
their tenons have been laid out and cut. Laying out these outlines at this
time is done so as to give the exact width the shelves are to have. These
dimensions can be determined by measuring across the sides between the
outlines at the points where the shelves are to be placed.
The shelves which have no tenons are to be let into the sides 1/4 in. They
should be shouldered 1/2 in. back from the edge so that the groove will not
show on the face.

The lip on the front of the
top shelf may be fastened by
means of very small brads,
the heads of which should
be covered with putty,
colored to match the finish.
A suitable finish may be
obtained as follows:
First see that all the mill
marks are removed, using a
smooth plane and steel
scraper and sandpaper, then
apply a coat of cathedral-oak
water stain. When dry,
sandpaper lightly, using No.
00 paper. Apply a second
coat of stain, diluting it by
the addition of an equal
volume of water. This is to
produce a stronger contrast.
Sand this lightly and put on
a very thin coat of shellac to
bind the filler and to prevent
the stain in the filler which
follows from discoloring the
high lights. Sand this lightly
Stand Made in Oak and put on a coat of paste
filler according to the
directions that will be found on the can. This filler should be colored in the
following proportions: Light paste filler, 20 lb.; Van Dyke brown, 1 lb.
After the filler has hardened, sand it lightly and put on a coat of orange
shellac. Follow this with several coats of some good rubbing varnish. The
first coats should be rubbed with haircloth or curled hair, and the last with
powdered pumice stone and raw linseed or crude oil.

A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR

Arm Chair Complete

Detail of the Arm Chair
A mission arm chair of simple design and construction is shown in the
accompanying illustration. This chair is suitable for any room of the house
and can be made of wood to match other furniture. Quarter-sawed oak is the
wood most generally used, and it is also very easy to obtain. The stock can
be ordered from the mill, cut to length, squared and sanded. Following is a
list of the material that will be needed:

2 front legs, 2 by 2 by 26-3/4 in.
2 back legs, 2 by 4 by 43 in.
2 arm rests, 1 by 4 by 26 in.
5 rails, 3/4 by 4 by 21-1/2 in.
5 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 2-1/2 in. .
2 back pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 16-1/2 in.
1 piece leather, 31 in, square.
1 piece burlap, 28 in, square.
2 pieces leather, 13 by 18 in.
2 pieces burlap, 13 by 18 in.

1 box 8 oz. tacks.
5-1/2 doz. ornamental nails.

Start with the front legs. Cut a tenon 1-1/4 in. square and 3/4 in, long on one
end to fit the arm rests. The mortises for the side rails are cut 1/2 in. wide
and 7/8 in, deep. The tenons on the rails are cut to fit these mortises, care
being taken to get them all the same length between shoulders. The back
legs are cut with an offset of 2 in. as shown in the detail drawing and also
have mortises cut in them for the back crosspieces. The upright pieces in the
back are fastened into the crosspieces by means of tenons and mortises, and
should be in place when the crosspieces are fastened to the legs.
The arms are cut from the 1 by 4 by 26-in. pieces. Be careful to get them so
they will pair. The outside edge can be either curved or straight as desired.
The front ends of the arms are held in place by mortises which fit over the
tenons on the ends of the front legs, while the back ends are held in place by
round-headed screws as shown.
The chair is now ready to be glued. Be sure to get the parts together
perfectly square, and when dry scrape off all surplus glue around the joints,
for stain will not adhere to glue and a white spot will be the result of failing
to remove it. Go over the parts carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all
rough marks. Then apply the stain you wish to use. To make the seat, first
fit boards in the bottom and nail them to the side rails as shown. Fill the
space with hair or elastic cotton felt to about 3 in. above the edge of the
rails. Bind this down tightly with a piece of burlap and tack the edges to the
rails. Cut out the corners of the burlap so that it will fit about the posts. Put
the leather on over this and tack the edges to the bottoms of the rails. Then
finish with the ornamental nails as shown.
To finish the back, first tack a piece of burlap over the opening, then place a
layer of hair or cotton felt on this about 1 in. thick. Stretch the leather over
this and fasten with ornamental nails. The back side is finished in the same
manner, except that the hair is omitted.

A WALL SHELF
Coarse-grained woods make up into furniture and take a more satisfactory
finish than close-grained woods. For this reason chestnut or oak is
suggested for this shelf. Chestnut has a beautiful grain and is soft and easily
worked.
There will be needed the following pieces:

Sides, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 7-1/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
Lower shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
Upper shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
Lower back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
Upper back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.

In making out this stock bill the pieces have been specified 1/4 in. wider
and 1/2 in, longer than the finished piece is to be to allow for squaring up.
The thicknesses are specified mill-planed exact so that all that is necessary
is to merely plane off the mill-marks from the two broad surfaces.
It is quite possible that one may have a particular space or a particular set of
books to place in the shelf. In such a case the length of the horizontals
should be lengthened or shortened to meet the particular demands when
ordering the lumber.

Complete Wall Shelf
Begin work by squaring the horizontals to size. They are to be all of the
same length. Next shape up the end pieces. The amount of slope for the
front edges is indicated on the drawing. After all these pieces have been
squared up and the mill-marks removed, the dadoes or grooves and gains
may be laid out and cut.
Beginners are prone to underestimate the importance of getting all the mill-
marks off before putting on any finish. When boards are planed at the mill
the planing is done by means of two or four knives revolving above or
below the board—sometimes both above and below at the same time. These
knives leave the surfaces filled with little ridges and hollows across the
grain. These hollows, though they are hardly visible to the eye on the
unfinished surface, show up as ugly streaks upon the surface after it has had
a finish of stain and filler applied.
The joints here used are typical and the beginner can readily find how they
are to be made from any good book on wood-working.

Wall Shelf Detail
There are several ways of fastening the parts. They may be fastened by
means of round-head blued screws. They may be fastened with carriage
screws. The one in the illustration was put together with ordinary wire nails
and the heads of these covered with ornamental heads to represent old-
fashioned hand-wrought nails.
It will be found easier to apply the finish of stain and filler before the parts
are assembled. A suitable finish is obtained as follows: After the parts are
thoroughly sanded, put on a coat of Filipino water stain, wiping it off with
an old cloth before it has had time to soak into the wood very much. Allow
this to dry. Then sand lightly, using No. 00 paper, after which fill the pores
of the wood with a black paste filler—directions will be found on the can.
Follow this, when hardened, with several coats of floor wax.

A PEDESTAL
The pedestal shown in the accompanying illustration is another piece of
furniture that can be made in the mission style. It is very simple in design
and construction, and can be made by anyone who has a few simple tools
and a slight knowledge of their use. It is best to make it of quarter-sawed
oak as this is the most easily procured wood and also looks the best when
finished. If you order the material from the mill ready cut to length, squared
and sanded, much hard labor will be saved. Following is a list of the
material needed:

1 top, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S.
1 bottom, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S
8 pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 11 in.
2 sides, 3/4 by 5 by 26 in., S-1-S.
2 sides, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 26 in.
1 piece, 3/4 by 6 by 6 in.
4 blocks, 1 in. square.

Having the boards for the post cut to the proper length and square, nail them
together as shown in the detail drawing. Use finishing nails, then set the
heads and fill the holes with putty. Next, nail the 3/4 by 6-in. piece on one
end of the post leaving the edges projecting even on all sides. Pick out the
best board for the top. On the under side and 1/2. in. in from the edges, nail
four of the 3/4 by 2 by 11-in. pieces which have been previously mitered as
shown in the plan view. Now fasten this top to the post by nailing through
the projecting edge of the top piece into the top board. Be careful to get this
top on square with the post and exactly in center.
The bottom board is made in the same manner as the top board and is nailed
to the lower end of the post as shown. Four 1-in. square blocks should be
fastened to the bottom for the pedestal to rest on.
When complete, sandpaper smooth and apply any one of the many mission
stains that are supplied by the trade for this purpose.

Completed Pedestal

Detail of Pedestal

After staining the wood, the surface can be given a polished or dull finish,
as desired. Mission furniture requires a dull finish, and this may be obtained
by applying a coat of wax, well rubbed on the wood.

MAGAZINE RACK
The accompanying cut shows a magazine rack that will find favor with
many amateur wood-workers on account of its simplicity in design and its
rich, massive appearance when properly finished. It is so constructed that
each piece may be polished, stained and finished before it is finally put
together. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use. Plain-sawed oak looks
well, but it is more liable to warp than quarter-sawed and this is quite an
element in pieces as wide as the ones here used. Following is a list of the
material needed:

4 posts, 2 by 2 by 40 in., S-4-S.
5 shelves, 1 by 14 by 24 in., S-2-S.
20 F.H. screws, 2 in. long.

Considerable labor can be saved if the material be ordered from the mill
ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The corner posts should be made
first. The most convenient and accurate method of laying out the mortises is
to square one end of each post and lay them on the bench flat, with the
squared ends even with each other; then clamp them securely and lay out
the mortises on one side across all four pieces at once; then loosen the
clamp and project the marks to the other side with a try-square. Now saw
along these marks, making each cut just deep enough to bring the mortises
diagonally across the piece from one corner to the opposite corner as shown
in the detail sketch. Be careful not to get the mortises wider than the shelves
are thick. Bevel the tops of the posts as shown.

Detail of the Magazine Rack

Magazine Rack Complete
See that the ends of the shelves are square and smooth, then set a scratch
gauge so that the scriber is just 2 in. from the face of the block and mark
this distance off each way from the corner of the shelves. Saw these corners
diagonally across as shown, being careful not to saw off too much.
The parts can now be assembled. Place all the parts in position, then pass a
rope around each end and twist it up tightly with a small stick. If this is
properly done, you can now pick up the rack and handle it in any way you
wish. The screws can now be put in the corners. You can use flat-head

screws and plug the holes, or you can use round-head blue screws and let
the heads project. After the screws are all in, dress off all unevenness where
the shelves are mortised into the posts, then mark each shelf and post so that
you can put it together again after the parts are finished. Take the rack apart
and transfer the marks to some part of the mortises and shelves that will not
be covered with the finish you intend to put on. Apply the finish you wish
to use and when the parts are thoroughly dry they can be reassembled and
your rack will be complete.

A HALL TREE
When making the hall tree as shown in the accompanying illustration use
quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for finishing
in the different mission stains. This is a very useful and attractive piece of
mission furniture and is also very easy to construct. The stock can be
purchased ready cut to length, mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides as
given in the following list:

1 post, 2 by 2 by 59 in.
4 posts, 2 by 2 by 10 in.
8 braces, 7/8 by 2 by 7-1/2 in.
4 arms, 7/8 by 2 by 5-3/4 in.

Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree
First square up all the posts and bevel them at the tops as shown. Then cut
the mortises making them 1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in. deep. Cut the tenons on
the braces to fit these mortises. Be careful to get the distance between the
shoulders of the braces all of the same length. A good way to do this is to
place them all side by side on a flat surface with the ends square and lay
them all out at once. The top arms can be made in the same manner. The
tenons should fit good and tight in all the posts.

The parts can now be glued and clamped together. When they are dry,
scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints and go over the whole with
fine sandpaper, removing all rough spots. Apply the finish you like best or
the one that will match your other furniture. Purchase a few hooks at a
hardware store and fasten in the upper arms as shown, and the hall tree is
complete.

A TABLE FOR THE DEN
The table shown in the accompanying sketch is especially appropriate for
the den; it might be used in any other part of the house as well. It may be
built of plain-sawed red oak, or of quarter-sawed white oak. The wood
should be thoroughly seasoned and devoid of imperfections.
Order the material as follows:

1 top piece, 3/4 in. thick by 36 in. square, S-2-S.
4 legs, 2-1/2 in. square by 30 in. long, S-4-S.
2 upper horizontals, 1-1/8 by 2 by 36 in., S-4-S.
2 lower horizontals, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 35 in., S-4-S.
4 keys, 1/2 by 1 by 5 in., S-2-S.

Lay out and cut the circular top first. Next cut the four legs to length. To get
the slopes for the ends of the legs and the shoulders of the tenons, lay out a
full-sized drawing in pencil and lay the bevel along these lines, adjusting
the parts to the lines.

Table Completed
The top horizontals have grooves cut on either side to allow the posts to "set
in." This is to give the frame more rigidity. The lower horizontals or
stretchers are to be tenoned through the posts and keyed. That the keys may
be alike in size, a good plan is to make them first, then make the mortises in
the stretchers to correspond. Work the keys to the proper thickness, unless
they were ordered so, then to length and joint one edge straight and square.
Next lay off across the key the lines A and B of the drawing so that A shall
measure 1/2 in. and B 3/8 in. Draw a sloping line through these points and
work this edge of the key to size and shape. Round the top of the key as

shown. Then mortise, in the tenon, for the key can then be laid out to 1/2 in.
for the top opening and 3/8 in. for the bottom.
The most satisfactory finish
for mission designs, and the
easiest to apply, is wax. It is
an old finish that was
superseded by varnish. Our
ancestors used to make wax
polish by "cutting" beeswax
with turpentine. Cut up the
beeswax and add to it about
one-third its volume of
turpentine. Heat to the
boiling point in a double
boiler. Or, melt a quantity of
beeswax and to this add an
equal volume of turpentine.
Care must be taken that the
turpentine shall not catch
fire.
Rapid drying and hardening
waxes can be purchased
now-a-days. They require a
smooth surface and a thin
application for a successful
result. Too much wax upon a
rough surface will produce
very ugly, white, chalk-like
spottings as the wax dries.
Detail of a Den Table
These are especially
noticeable upon dark
finishes. Waxes colored black overcome this, but are not necessary if the
ordinary wax is properly applied. 1—Stain the wood, if a very dark finish is
desired. 2—If the wood is coarse grained, put on one or two coats of paste
filler and rub it off carefully, that a smooth surface may be prepared. Allow
the stain 12 hours in which to dry, also each coat of filler. 3—With a soft

cloth apply as thin a coating of wax as can be and still cover the wood. Wax
is in paste form. 4—Allow this to stand five or ten minutes, then rub briskly
with a soft dry cloth to polish. 5—Let stand 24 hours, then apply another
coat.

WINDOW SEAT Fig. 1—The Rough Cedar Box Without the
Covering

A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT
A portable window seat of neat appearance, which is designed to take the
place of a cedar chest, is shown in the accompanying sketch. If care is taken
to make the joints fit well, the box will be practically airtight and
mothproof, providing a place in which to store extra bedding or furs. The
following list of materials will be needed:

36 ft. 1-in. thick cedar boards for the box.
1 piece pine, 2 by 2 in. by 12 ft. long.
32 ft. of 1/4 by 2-in. oak strips.
54 ft. of 1/4 by 1-in. oak strips.
16 doz. R.H. 3/4-in, long brass screws.
1 piece green burlap, 24 by 48 in.
2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 44 in.
2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 20 in.
20 pieces red burlap, 3-1/4 in. square.

The box as shown in Fig. 1 is made first. Nail the sides and the bottom to
the ends, being careful to get the box perfectly square. The corners can be
dovetailed together if desired. The extra time it takes in making the
dovetailed joints will greatly add to the durability of the box. The box can
be made much stronger by nailing the sides and ends to posts 2 in. square
placed on the inside. Cleats should also be placed on the inside, at the
bottom, as shown. Fasten four blocks, 2 in. square, to the bottom for the box
to rest upon. These can be attached with long screws run through from the
bottom of the box.

Fig. 2—Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the Burlap
The green burlap is glued to the outside of the box. Be careful not to apply
too much glue on the burlap, or it will soak through. This should be tried
out on a scrap piece, and when the proper application of glue is ascertained,
applied to one side of the burlap and stuck on the box. Place the cloth on so
the weave will run in the same direction on all sides. The oak slats are cut
and fit over the burlap as shown in Fig. 2. Care should be taken to make the
mitered joints a tight fit. After the miters are all cut and the location of the
squares, found, they are marked so that pieces of red burlap may be placed
over the green before the slats are fastened permanently. The slats are put in
place over the burlap and fastened with small brass screws.
Cover the top or lid with green burlap, allowing the edges to lap over the
ends and sides and fasten under the side strips. This top can be stuffed with
excelsior, if desired, and tacks with large heads driven in to hold it in place.
The slats can be stained any color to suit the maker. They should be
removed from the box when being stained so as not to spot or stain the
burlap.

QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE
The mission settee shown in the accompanying picture should be made of
quarter-sawed white oak. The material needed will be as follows:

4 posts, 3-1/4 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 end rails, 1-1/2 by 5 by 32 in., S-4-S.
12 end slats, 5/8 by 3-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
1 front rail, 1-1/2 by 7 by 87 in., S-4-S.
1 lower back rail, 1-1/2 by 9 by 87 in., S-4-S.
1 upper back rail, 1-1/2 by 12 by 87 in., S-4-S.
2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 82 in., S-4-S.
2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.

Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak
On account of the unusual width of the pieces that go into the makeup of
this settee, it will be necessary to have the wood thoroughly seasoned

before putting them together, otherwise shrinkage will cause them to crack
open.
Begin work by making the ends of the settee first. Cut the posts to length,
chamfering both top and bottoms somewhat so that they shall not splinter or
cause injury to the hands. Next lay out and cut the mortises as shown on the
drawing. With the posts finished, lay out the end rails, cutting the tenons
and the mortises into which the ends of the slats are to be fitted.
It should be noted that the drawing calls for the "setting in" of the whole of
the ends of the slats, there being no shoulders. This is much easier and gives
just as satisfactory a result, provided the sides of the mortises are carefully
cut.
Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all these parts and then put the ends
together. In addition to the glue it will be well to through pin each of the
tenons and mortises. These pins may be put in flush and permanent on the
ends of the settee. On the side rails, however, the pins are to be allowed to
project so that they can be removed, and no glue is used in the joint.
While the glue of the ends is hardening, prepare the rails of front and back.
Scrape and sandpaper these and when the clamps can be removed from the
ends put the whole frame together. The ends of all projecting tenons are
chamfered.

Detail of the Oak Settee

The illustration shows a loose leather cushion. There is quite a variety of
materials out of which such a cushion can be made. The best, of course, is
leather. In the highest class of furniture where loose cushions are used, the
seat base is formed by solidly mortising a frame together on which is woven
a heavy cane seating. This in turn is fastened to the inside of the piece of
furniture, and the cushions when placed upon it make a very comfortable
seat. The stock bill for this settee calls for such a frame. Wood slats may be
substituted if desired.
This piece of furniture will look well if finished in weathered oak. See that
all glue is removed from the surface, and that the wood is clean and smooth,
and apply a coat of weathered oak oil stain. Sandpaper this lightly with No.
00 paper when the stain has thoroughly dried, and put on a coat of
lackluster or an equivalent.

A SCREEN
In selecting or making up mission furniture for the home, a screen is
necessary sometimes to add to the appearance of a room. The screen shown
in the accompanying illustration consists of a few parts which are easily put
together. The stock can be bought of any planing mill planed, sanded and
cut to the proper lengths. The cloth, which should be of dark color, can be
purchased at a dry goods store. The following list of material will be
needed.

6 posts, 1 in. square by 65 in.
6 rails, 3/4 in. square by 18 in.
6 rails, 1/2 in. square by 18 in.
3 panels, 1/4 by 3 by 18 in.
6 yd. of cloth.
4 double-acting hinges.
2 doz. 2-1/2-in. slender screws.

Cut or plow a groove 1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep in the center of one
surface on each of the 3/4-in. rails. Cut out the ends with a compass saw.
The five holes are bored with a 1-in. bit. The edges of these panels are
inserted in the grooves of the 3/4-in. rails, using plenty of good glue.
When the glue has dried for at least 24 hours the screen frame can be put
together. Holes for the screws should be bored through the posts where the
3/4-in. rails are joined and a screw turned into the end grain of each rail.
Scrape off all the surplus glue and sandpaper all the parts well. When this is
done the finish can be applied. Any one of the mission stains can be used
and finished with wax and polished.

Detail of One Section
The cloth is cut to length, a hem sewed on each end and one 1/2-in. rail put
through each hem. Place the top rail in position and screw it fast. Stretch the
cloth tight and fasten the lower 1/2-in. rail with screws at the bottom. Each
section of the screen is finished in the same way.
The hinges are attached about 4 in. from each end of the posts in the same
manner as hanging a door.
The sections can be made up in various ways to suit the builder. Instead of
using cloth, heavy paste-board, or board made up to take the place of plaster

on walls of dwellings, may be substituted, thus forming a ground that will
take paint and bronze decorations. A piece of this material can be easily cut
to fit the opening in each section.

Screen of Three Sections

A MISSION BOOKRACK
The accompanying sketch shows a bookrack designed strictly along mission
lines. Enough stock may be found among the scrap, as no piece is over 1 in,
in width or thickness. If stock is not on hand, secure the following, cut to
exact lengths:

2 stretchers, 1 by 1 by 20 in., S-4-S.
4 posts, 1 by 1 by 7-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 rails, 1 by 1 by 7 in., S-4-S.
8 slats, 1/2 by 1/2 by 3-1/2 in., S-4-S.

Arrange the pieces as they are to be in the finished rack and number both
parts of each joint. There will be twelve lap joints, and great care must be
taken to mark them accurately and to cut to exactly half the depth of each
piece.
First fit the posts and rails of the ends. To mark the width of each notch, lay
the piece which is to fit into the notch upon it and thus get the exact size.
Knife lines must be used for the width and light gauge lines for the depth of
each notch.

Detail of the Bookrack
Next lay out and cut joints between the stretchers and ends.
In each end there are four slats which should be mortised into the rails 1/4
in. Glue the pieces in place and clamp them with handscrews.

A rubber-headed tack in the bottom of each post will prevent the marring of
the surface upon which the rack is to rest.

The Complete Bookrack
Mission, weathered or fumed-oak stain will look well. A waxed finish
should be used. Before applying the wax, it is well to use a very thin coat of
shellac as a foundation. Let this coat stand for a few hours and allow an
interval of at least an hour between applying the coats of wax.
Should the rack wind a little, it may be remedied by cutting off part of two
diagonally opposite racks.

A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE

Detail of the Table
This extension table should be made of some hard wood, preferably white
oak. It will be a difficult matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated in solid
pieces of clear stock. It will be possible, however, to secure them veneered
upon white-pine cores. If the veneering is properly done these will serve the

purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to the white-pine core, being an
advantage. The circular facing is best made by first sawing a segment of the
circle of the size wanted and then veneering the outer surface of this. Order
the following stock:

4 legs, 3 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 leg, 5 by 5 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 rails, 1-1/8 by 5 by 23 in., S-2-S.
4 facing segments, 1-1/8 by 3-1/4 in. on a 24-in. radius.
1 top, 1-1/8 in. thick on a 27-in. radius, S-2-S;
3 extra boards, 1-1/8 by 12 by 55 in., S-2-S.
4 slides, 1-1/8 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
2 slides, 1-1/4 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
4 frame pieces, 7/8 by 3 by 9 in., S-4-S, maple.
2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 6 by 28 in., S-4-S, maple.
2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 23-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.

Table for the Dining-Room Set
There are various ways of arranging the slides to work one with the other.
Several patented devices are on the market that permit a ready adjustment
with but little effort and are used extensively by commercial manufacturers.
The amateur will do well to secure a set before he undertakes to work these
slides to shape.
Prepare the legs by cutting them to length. Lay out and work the mortises.
The ends of the facings are to be tenoned and housed into the posts. Prepare
the rails by cutting the tenons and shaping the lower edges as shown in the
drawing. Prepare the top. After this, assemble this much of the frame, using
plenty of clamps and good hot glue.
Next get the under frame and the slides ready and attach them as shown.
There will be needed plenty of glue blocks for reinforcing the facing where
it is fastened to the top, etc.
For a finish, apply a filler colored, as desired. Upon this, after it has
hardened and been sanded with No. 00 paper, apply a coat of shellac. Upon
the shellac apply successively several coats of some good rubbing varnish.
Rub the first coats with haircloth and the final coat with pulverized pumice
and crude or linseed oil.
If an effect is wanted that will contrast, stain the wood first with a water
stain. Sand this lightly when dry, then apply a second coat of stain diluted
one-half with water. Again sand and then apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand
this lightly, and apply the filler and the varnish as described above.

AN ARM DINING CHAIR
This armchair will
look well if made
of plain-sawed oak.
Quarter-sawed oak
might be used, or
black walnut if
desired. The stock
bill specifies the
various parts mill-
planed to size as far
as possible. If some
amateur craftsman
should prefer to do
his own surfacing,
thereby saving
somewhat on the
expense, he should
add 1/4 in. to the
width of each
piece, providing the
stock is mill-planed
to thickness. It is
hardly profitable to
get stock entirely in
the rough if the
work is to be done
by hand. The
following is the Armchair of the Dining-Room Set
stock bill:

2 front posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.
1 piece for back posts, 1-3/4 by 6 by 43 in., S-2-S.

2 arm pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
2 front and back lower rails, 5/8 by 2-3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
2 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 slat, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 braces, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 5-1/2 in., S-2-S.

The design shown is for a chair in which the width of front and back is the
same. Also the back leg parallels the front below the seat. In commercial
practice the backs are usually made somewhat narrower than the fronts and
the back leg is slanted somewhat below the seat as well as above. As this
construction necessitates sloping shoulders on all tenons it complicates the
problem when the work is not done by machinery. The ambitious amateur
may readily get the proportion of slant by measuring common chairs. For
mission effects the chair looks well with front and back the same width.
Prepare the front posts first and then the rear. The rear posts are to be cut
from the single piece of stock specified. By proper planning both pieces
may be gotten out without trouble. Lay off and cut the mortises.
Saw the rails to length and lay out and cut the tenons. The back rails are to
have mortises in their edges to receive the ends of the slats. Instead of
tenoning these slats make mortises large enough to receive the whole end—
in other words, house the ends.
Shape the two arms, then glue up the back and then the front of the chair.
After the glue has set sufficiently, assemble the remainder of the parts.

Detail of the Armchair
Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the parts and then apply the finish.
For a seat, either a leather cushion may be placed upon slats or the bottom
may be upholstered in the usual manner, using webbing on heavy canvas,
and then felt or hair with a top of canvas and leather; the whole being firmly
fastened with tacks and the leather with ornamental nails.

A HALL BENCH
All the stock for this bench should be of 7/8-in. oak, excepting the slats,
which may be of a cheaper wood. The following list of lumber will be
required to build it:

4 slats, 7/8 by 4 by 17 in., cheap wood.
2 cleats, 7/8 by 1 by 26 in., cheap wood.
4 end rails, 7/8 by 2 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.
2 ends, 7/8 by 16 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.
2 sides, 7/8 by 4 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.
2 pieces, 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.

Detail of the Hall Bench
Start the work by first cutting the two pieces of 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25-in.
material diagonally 1 in. from each corner, thus making the legs. The edges
are planed square and the ends should be rounded a little so that there will

be no splinters projecting. The legs are mortised 1 in. deep for the side rails.
The tenon ends are cut on the rails, care being taken to get the right angle
and a good fit. These can now be fastened together, using hot glue on the
entire surface of the joint.

Bench Made of Plain Oak
While these are drying the ends can be made as shown in the plan. The 3 by
4-in. holes are cut at equal distances apart. Be sure that each end is perfectly
square, then glue and dowel the 2-in. strips at each end. The ends are then
glued and nailed to the sides, using finishing nails, which are set and the
holes filled with colored putty.

The cleats are now fastened, extra care being taken when fastening them
over the joints where the legs receive the side rails, as this will help to
strengthen the joints. The slats rest on these cleats and are placed at equal
distances apart.
The bench is now finished, but before applying the stain, see that all parts
are free from glue and are well sandpapered.
The leather cushion should be the loose kind and of a shade to harmonize
with the finish.

A SEWING TABLE
This convenient and useful table will be much appreciated by any woman.
It has two drawers for sewing material, and two drop leaves to spread the
work upon.
The following list of material will be needed for its construction. The sizes
given are exact, so if the stock cannot be bought at a mill ready planed and
squared, a slight allowance must be made for this.

4 posts, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.
9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S.
1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 18 in., S-2-S.
2 leaves, 7/8 by 10 by 18 in., S-2-S.
2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 13 in., S-2-S.
2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4-1/8 by 13 in., S-2-S.
2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 12-3/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.
4 drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
3 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 14 in., S-2-S.
2 brackets, 7/8 by 3 by 4 in., S-2-S.

Have the surfaces of the legs exactly square with each other. The ends must
be square with all surfaces, but need not be planed smooth as neither will be
seen in the finished table.

Sewing Table in Plain Oak
Arrange the rails in position. The two rails in each side and back are placed
with the 2-in. surface out, while the three in the front have the 2-in. surface
up for the drawers to slide upon. Mark the tenons, 1 in, by 3/8 in., with a
knife and gauge lines on each end of the rails for the sides and back. Mark
the tenons, 3/4 in. by 7/8 in., as shown in the sketch, on each end of front
rails. Cut all the tenons with a backsaw and smooth them with a chisel.

Detail of the Sewing Table
Carefully mark the mortises in the legs, taking measurements for each
mortise from the tenon which is to go into it. Fit together all rails and legs
without glue to detect any errors.
See that the panels for sides and back are squared up true and the surfaces
smooth. Mark the grooves for the panels in the side and back rails and legs.
Cut the grooves with a chisel or plow plane to a depth of 1/4 in.
Glue up the joints and clamp the two table sides first. While the glue is
setting, square up and smooth the top and two leaves perfectly.
Now glue up the whole table, having set in the front and back rails and
panel. The drawer slides, two on each side, should next be put in. A nail
through them and into each leg will hold them, as there is only the weight
of the drawers resting on them. Fasten the top with screws through the rails
from the under side. The leaves are attached with two 2-in. butt hinges
which must be set in flush with the under surface to prevent a crack
showing between the table top and leaf when the latter is raised. The small
bracket hinged to the panel supports the open leaf.

Construction of the Drawer
The drawers are now made. Allow the side to lap over the front 1/2 in. as
shown in sketch and fasten it with nails. The bottom should be let into the
sides and front 1/4 in., but must not be nailed to them, because this would
cause the drawer to stick, when the bottom expands.
Metal rings or wooden knobs will do well for the drawer pulls.
Stain to any desired shade and finish with a wax if a dull gloss is wanted, or
with one coat of shellac and two coats of varnish for a highly polished
surface.

A SIDE CHAIR
A companion piece to the
chair with arms and the
sideboard is the side chair
illustrated herewith. It
should be made of the same
kind of wood and finished
to correspond with the
armchair. Order the
following stock list:

2 front posts, 1-1/2 by
1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-
4-S.
1 piece for back posts,
1-1/2 by 5-1/2 by 38-
1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 seat rails, 1 by 2 by
17 in., S-4-S.
4 lower side rails, 5/8
by 1-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-
S.
2 lower front and back
rails, 5/8 by 2-1/2 by
17 in., S-4-S.
1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-
1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
1 back rail, 3/4 by 2 by
17 in., S-4-S. Side Chair of Dining-Room Set
1 slat, 3/8 by 3 by 13-
1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.

Square up the front posts to length. From the single piece specified cut out
the back posts, giving them the amount of slant indicated in the drawing.
Set these four posts upright in the positions they are to occupy relative to
one another in the finished piece, and mark off, as with penciled circles, the
approximate locations of mortises. After this, lay them on the bench side by
side, even the lower ends and locate accurately the ends of the mortises.
Gauge their sides.
Saw the rails to length and lay out the shoulder lines and the cheeks of the
tenons and cut them. Plan to house the ends of the slats in the back rails.
While the drawing shows a chair in which the front and back are of equal
width, the amateur may make the back narrower if he so desires. A
measurement of a common chair will give the proportions.

Detail of the Side Chair
Place the front and the back in the clamps and after the glue has had time to
harden, assemble the remaining parts. Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all
the parts, carefully removing any surplus glue. Wood finish will not "take
hold" where any glue has been allowed to remain.
The seat may be given the same treatment as suggested for the armchair.
This should not be done, however, until the finish has been applied.
A simple finish is obtained by the application of a coat of paste filler of a
soft brown color, if oak has been used. Apply and clean this off in the

manner directed by the manufacturers and after it has had 24 hours in which
to harden, sand it lightly with No. 00 paper. Over this apply a thin coat of
shellac. Allow this to harden, then sandpaper lightly with fine paper. Upon
the shellac apply several coats of some good rubbing wax. Follow the
directions that are to be found upon the cans, being careful not to apply too
much at a time. If too much wax is applied, it stays in the small pores of the
wood and produces an ugly chalk-like appearance.

ANOTHER PIANO BENCH
The piano bench shown is best made of black walnut or oak and should be
finished in the natural color for walnut, but stained some rich brown for
oak.
The following pieces will be needed:

1 top, 1 by 15-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 legs, 1 by 14-1/2 by 20-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 rails, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.
1 stretcher, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37 in., S-2-S.

The keys can be secured from the waste that will be cut off from the other
parts.
Square up the top in the usual manner to the size indicated in the working
drawing. In a similar manner square up the stretcher to width and length.
There will be no need to square the ends of the rails as they are to be cut off
on a slant. Square up the sides or edges and then lay off and cut the slanting
ends, smoothing them with the plane. Lay off and work the shape on their
under edges.

Detail of the Piano Bench
The ends are best laid off by means of a template or pattern for which a
piece of rather heavy paper will do. Lay off the main dimensions on a
center line. Sketch in the curve of the edge after the slant has been laid out.
Lay out the form at the bottom, then fold the paper along the center line and
trace the other half. With this pattern lay off the outline upon the wood. For
convenience in laying out the grooves for the rails and the mortise for the
tenon on the stretcher, it is well to work a face edge upon each leg and
allow this to remain until these joints have been made and the parts fitted.
The shape at the bottom of the leg is merely suggestive and may be
modified as desired.
Lay out and work the tenons on the stretcher. Then lay out and work the
grooves upon the rails. Each side of each rail is grooved 1/8 in, to allow the
leg to be recessed. This is done to give the bench the bracing that is needed
to make it stand firmly. Work the grooves in the legs and the mortises for
the rails.

Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak
It should be noted that the mortise for the key in the stretcher must be laid
out before the shoulders and cheeks of the tenon on which the mortise is
made are cut off. Otherwise there would be no place to put the gauge in
marking the sides of the mortise for the key.
Thoroughly scrape all the parts and then assemble them. No glue is needed.
The rails are held in place by dowel pins, the heads of which are allowed to
project slightly and rounded so as to give an ornamental effect. The top is
attached by means of small angle irons or by means of blocks and screws
fastened to the corners made by top and rails.

ANOTHER SCREEN
The screen shown in the accompanying illustration is made of burlap and
plain-sawed oak. The stock list follows:

2 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 40 in., S-4-S.
2 base pieces, 3 by 3 by 12-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 horizontals, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 38 in., S-2-S.
1 horizontal, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 38 in., S-2-S.
1 vertical, 3/4 by 1-3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S.
4 braces, 1-1/8 by 4-1/4 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S.

The two base pieces may be shaped first. The drawing shows the form and
the dimensions. Make use of a face edge in laying out the mortises in the
base pieces for the uprights, before these face edges are removed to make
the slanting sides.
Work the verticals to length, laying out and cutting the tenons at the
bottoms, and shaping the tops as shown.
Lay out and shape the three horizontals as shown, working the tenons upon
the ends of each and the mortises in the lower two for the tenons of the
middle vertical.
For the braces, secure a face edge on each piece and square one end of each
to that. Lay off the curve free-hand upon one block and cut it out. Use this
block as a pattern or template to lay off the others.
Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all the parts, then assemble them, using
clamps and good hot glue. Take care to see that there is no warp in the
frame as it lies in the clamps. After the glue on the frame has hardened,
remove the clamps and attach the base blocks and the braces. The braces are
secured by means of round-head screws.

Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels
Remove the surplus glue and then apply a finish as desired.
For the paneling, frames will be needed about which to fasten the burlap.
These may be made of 1/2-in, soft wood and the following pieces will be
necessary:

2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 36 in., S-2-S.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 8 in., S-2-S.
4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 18 in., S-2-S.
4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 19 in., S-2-S.

Make these frames enough smaller than the openings they are to occupy to
allow for burlap and tacks. These frames are held in place by putting fixed
nails in the top of each frame before the burlap is attached. Holes are bored
in the rails to correspond to them. The lower edges of the frames are held in
place by nails inserted up through the rails upon which the frames rest.

Detail of the Frame

A FOLDING CARD TABLE
The accompanying sketch shows the details of a card table that can be
folded up and carried about or stored away when not in use. We would
advise making two tables at the same time, as the material for both can be
purchased nearly as cheaply as for one. The material necessary for making
one table is given in the following list:

1 piece, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 27-1/2 in., basswood or poplar.
2 pieces, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 29-1/4 in., basswood or poplar.
4 legs, 1 in. square, 24-3/4 in. long; oak.
4 pieces, 1 in. square, 5 in. long; oak.
4 side pieces, 3/8 by 1-3/8 by 29-5/8 in.; oak.
4 pieces, 27-1/2 in. long, single groove electric wire moulding with
batten.
1 piece cardboard, 1/8 in. thick, 29-1/4 in. square.
4 pieces brass rod, 3-16 in. diameter, 15 in. long.
30 small copper washers, 3/8 or 7/16 in. outside diameter and drilled
3/16 in.
4 brass corners, 1-3/8 in, deep.
2-1/2 doz. No. 5 oval head brass screws, 3/4 in. long.
4 No. 2, 7/8-in. rubber screw tips.
1 piece felt, 1 yd. square.
1 sheet wadding, 1 yd. square (if pad is wanted under felt).
1 pt. wood stain.
3 doz. No. 14 wire beads, 2 in. long.
Some 2-oz., 4-oz., and 6-oz. flat-head tacks.

Detail of the Card Table
Begin by squaring up the four legs making them all 24-3/4 in. long and 1 in.
square. Also square up the crosspieces marked B in the detail drawing.
These should be 5 in. long and should have 1/4-in. holes about 1 in. deep
drilled in both ends of each for the 1/4-in. oak swivel pins. Measure back 1-
1/2 in. from one end of each and bore a 9/16-in. hole, 7/8 in. deep as shown.
Now cut a tenon on one end of each leg, 3/4 in. long, that will fit tightly in
this 9/16-in. hole. Round the corners of the piece B at the top as shown at C.
Fasten the two pieces together with glue and brads, being careful to get
them square with each other. After the glue is set bore a 3/16-in. hole in the

center of the leg, 7 in. from the edge of the crosspiece, for the brace rod.
Bevel the corners as shown. Sandpaper them smooth, then stain and polish.

Card Table Ready for Use
Lay the two pieces marked D and E in the sketch on a level surface with the
7/8-in. edge up, place the cardboard on top and tack it fast to the pieces,
using 6-oz. tacks. Place the center piece in and tack it fast also. Fasten the
ends to the other pieces with brads. The four pieces of electric wire
moulding should each measure exactly 27-1/2 in. long, or the same length
as the center piece. Fit a piece of wood about 4 in. long in the groove at
each end of the moulding, plane down and fasten with brads. Next take the
thin batten or covering strip that comes with the moulding and bore a 1/2-
in. hole in the center, 6 in, from one end, and a 1/4-in. hole, 8-3/16 in. from
the other end. With a gouge cut a slot 1/4 in. wide from one hole to the
other in the center as shown in the section A-A. Sandpaper this slot smooth

and then fasten the batten to the moulding with small brads driven in about
2 in. apart. At a point 3/4 in. from each end and in the center drill 1/4-in.
holes through the moulding at the small ends of the slots. These are for the
ends of the brace rods to spring into, to lock the legs when they are open.
Tack the two pieces of moulding marked F and J on the remaining edges of
the cardboard with the slots facing in and the large holes of the slots at
opposite sides, then place the other two pieces (G and H) 5 in. inside of
these, or just the length of the cross ends of the legs, with the slots facing
the first two placed (F and J) and tack fast with 4-oz. tacks. Use brads at the
ends and be careful that they do not enter the 1/4-in. holes. This part of the
table can now be stained or painted the same as the legs. The 3/8-in. side
pieces can also be stained at this time.
The ends of the brass rods can be bent in a vise. One end should be 1 in.
long and should be square with the stock. Measure 11-1/4 in. center to
center and bend in opposite direction, leaving this end at a slight angle out
from square. Just at this bend raise a burr with a sharp chisel to keep the
washer on. Now place five of the copper washers on the 1-in. end and batter
the end of the rod so they will not slip off. They should be loose so that they
will roll and slip on the brace. Slip a washer on the other end and put the
end of the rod through the 3/16-in. hole in the leg from the short end side,
place another washer on the rod, saw off and rivet down the end.

The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top
To put the legs in the table, slip the end of one of the braces and the washers
in the large hole in the slot, shove it up until the 1/4-in. hole in the
crosspiece and the one in the moulding meet, then drive an oak dowel or
rod into each end. This is the hinge or pivot that the legs swing on. When
the leg is extended the end of the brace rod should spring into the 1/4-in.
hole in the moulding and lock the leg in place. Rubber tips should be put on
the bottom ends of the legs. Two wooden buttons should be made and

fastened to the cardboard as shown at K for locking the legs when they are
closed.
The felt can now be put on the top of the table. Stretch it tightly and then
tack the edges securely to the sides of the table. Now fasten on the 3/8-in.
side pieces and the brass corners with the small brass screws as shown on
the drawing, and the table is complete.

MAGAZINE STAND
If you do not possess the necessary
tools for getting out the material
used in this piece of furniture, it can
be purchased from a mill already
planed, sanded and cut to lengths
given in the list. Any kind of wood
can be used, but quarter-sawed red
oak with a mission stain and waxed,
gives the best appearance. The
following pieces will be needed:

2 shelves, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in.,
S-2-S.
1 shelf, 3/8 by 10 by 15 in., S-
2-S.
1 shelf, 3/8 by 12 by 15 in., S-
2-S.
8 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/8 by 38 in.,
S-4-S.
2 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 38 in.,
S-4-S.
4 doz. 1 in. No. 9 round-head
screws.

Take the four shelves and line them
up with their backs and ends even
and clamp them together firmly.
Mark the places for the slats across
Stand Complete
the edges of the shelves, making the
first line 1/2 in. from their ends. Use
a square to get the lines at right angles to the surface. Another line is drawn
1-1/8 in. from the first, or the width of the slat. The ends of the shelves are
marked in the same manner, beginning from the back edges and making the

first line 1/2 in. from them, and then another line 1-1/8 in. from the first, or
the width of the slat. Make a line across the ends, 1/2 in. from the front edge
of the 8-in, shelves, and another line 1-1/8 in. back from the first one. This
will leave 2-1/2 in. and 4-1/2 in. of space respectively from the front edges
of the 10-in. and 12-in. shelves. Shift the shelves so they will be even on the
front edges and mark them the same as the back. Make a 1/4-in. depth mark
on all edges between the lines and cut this material out. This can be done
while the shelves are clamped together.

Detail of Stand

Place the shelves on end in their order and start by screwing on the back
slats on both ends first, then screw on the two front slats. Turn the stand
down and put on the two back slats. Attach the two front slats on the top
shelf first. Then bore the places for the remaining holes and turn in the
screws. This will bend the slats into place. The two remaining slats are
screwed on the ends of the shelves without letting them in, making the
spaces equal. Mark each slat 1/2 in. below the bottom shelf and saw them
off. The stand can be taken apart, sandpapered and stained.

A TABOURET
The stock necessary to make a tabouret of craftsman design as shown in the
accompanying illustration can be purchased from the mill ready cut to
length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use and
it is also the easiest to secure. Order the following pieces:

4 legs, 1-1/2 in. square by 22 in. long.
1 top, 3/4 in. thick by 14 in. square.
4 top rails, 3/4 by 4 by 12 in.
4 lower rails, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in.

First square up the four legs. Bevel the tops at an angle of 30 deg. and
hollow out the lower part of the legs as shown in the detail sketch. Clamp
them together with the ends square and lay out the mortises all at once. Cut
the tenons on the rails to fit these mortises. Lay them out in the same
manner as the posts so as to get them all the same distance between
shoulders. The upper rails should be cut out underneath as shown.
The rails and posts can now be glued together. Be careful to get them joined
perfectly square. When they are dry cut and fit the top as shown. This is
fastened to the top rails by means of screws from the inside. Remove all
surplus glue from about the joints, as the finish will not take where there is
any glue. Go over the whole with fine sandpaper and remove all rough
spots, then apply the finish you like best.

Detail of Tabouret

Finished Tabouret

A PORCH SWING

Complete Porch Swing
The porch swing shown in the illustration can be made of southern pine at a
very moderate cost. It should be suspended by rustless black chains and
eyebolts passing through the lower rails. If cushions are desired they can be
made up quite cheaply of elastic felt covered with denim cloth.
These pieces, dressed and sanded, may be bought at the mill:

2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 71 in., S-4-S.
1 rail, 1-3/4 by 3 by 65 in., S-4-S.
2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 25 in., S-4-S.
2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 17 in., S-4-S.
2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 arm rests, 7/8 by 4 by 28 in., S-2-S.
5 slats, 3/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S.
8 ft. flooring for bottom.
2 cleats, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.

Plane and square the ends of all the rails and posts. Lay out the lap joints for
the back rails and posts. Use a knife line for this and saw exactly to the line
to avoid trimming with the chisel. When sawing be careful to cut exactly
halfway through the thickness of each piece. In the same way make the lap
joints between the front rail and posts. Have the two end rails exactly the
same length and proceed to fasten the front and back posts to them, using 4-
in. lag screws and washers. Bore through the posts and part way into the
ends of the end rails for the lag screws.

Detail of the Porch Swing
The slats are mortised 1/2 in. into the back rails, or a 3/8-in. groove may be
planed in these rails, the entire distance between joints, to receive the slats.
A rabbeting plane will be needed for this. The arm rests lap over the back
posts and are held to them with 2-in. round-head screws. They may be
fastened to the top of the front posts with round-head screws or dowel pins.
Ordinary pine flooring makes a good, tight seat, or 7/8-in. board may be
used if desired. Fasten the cleats, which support the seat, to the front and
back lower rails with 1-1/2-in. screws.
To bring out the beautiful grain of southern pine, stain it brown or black and
finish with two coats of waterproof varnish.

A FOOT WARMER
This foot warmer is so constructed that two bricks may be heated and
placed inside of the stool.
Oak is the most suitable wood to use, and the following pieces will be
needed:

4 legs, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 8 in., S-4-S.
4 side rails, 7/8 by 3 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 top pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-2-S.
1 bottom piece, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.
1 piece asbestos, 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in.
4 pieces asbestos, 2 by 8-1/2 in.
1 sheet of brass, 13 by 13 in., 17 gauge.
2 hinges, 1 elbow catch, 3 doz. ornamental tacks.

The work may be started by shaping the four legs and cutting the mortises
for the rails. Tenons are cut on the ends of the rails to fit in the mortises
made in the posts. They are then glued together, care being taken to get the
stool perfectly square.
The top frame can now be made and covered with the sheet of brass. The
frame has mitered corners and the inside of the frame must be even with the
inside of the rails. This in turn is fastened to the stool with the two hinges
on the back and the elbow catch on the front side to keep it closed.

Detail of the Foot Warmer
The design on the brass can be made by tacking it on a board, laying out the
design and piercing the background with some sharp-pointed tool. This
leaves the design raised with a smooth surface.
The brass can now be removed from the board, placed on the frame and
fastened with the ornamental tacks.
Turn the stool bottom side up and line the inside of the rails with asbestos;
then place the bricks on the inside of the stool. Both should fit up tight to
the brass when the bottom is in place.

Oak Stool with Brass Cover
The stool is now ready for the finish, which can be of some stain to match
the other furniture in the room where it is to be used.

A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM
This plate rack can be made of any kind of wood and finished to match
other pieces of furniture in the room, but as it is of mission design, oak is
the most suitable lumber, as it takes the mission stain so nicely.
The material required is as follows:

4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.
1 top, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 48 in., S-2-S.
2 plate rails, 7/8 by 6-1/4 by 32 in., S-2-S.
2 back boards, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.
2 side boards, 7/8 by 5-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.
4 shelves, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 8-1/4 in., S-2-S.
2 plate rests, 7/8 by 7/8 by 32 in., S-4-S.

Detail of Plate Rack
This stock is specified to exact thickness, but some allowance is made for
trimming on the edges and ends.
Begin work by squaring up the posts to length and beveling the top ends,
then trim the back and side boards. These are nailed together, lapping the
back board over the side board. The posts are fastened with dowels placed
at equal distances apart. Hot glue is used in the joints.

Dining-Room Plate Rack
The four shelves are now put in place. These are notched out to fit around
the posts and are nailed and glued.
While the glue is hardening on these, the plate rails can be cut. These have
7/8-in grooves near the front edge to receive the lower edge of the plates
when resting against the two strips placed 5 in. above the plate rails and far
enough back to prevent the plates from falling forward.
The rails are fastened to the two sides with dowels, three at each end being
sufficient. The two strips fit in mortises cut in the side pieces. The top is
then put on. This fits around the posts and rests on the sides. Hooks on
which to hang cups are placed under the rails. All parts are thoroughly
sandpapered before the stain is applied.

A MISSION SIDEBOARD

Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set
The sideboard is a piece designed to go with the armchair and side chair
with similar paneling design. Like these chairs the sideboard should be
made of hard wood and should be similarly finished. The drawer pulls, if
not made of wood, should be of such metal and design as to harmonize with
the mission style. Wrought-iron effects in plain outlines are appropriate.
Drawer sides, bottoms and backs may be made of some soft wood, such as
yellow poplar. The small top drawer may be lined with ooze leather for
holding silverware.

Obtain the following stock:

2 posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in., S-4-S.
2 posts, 2 by 2 by 39 in., S-4-S.
1 top, 1 by 23 by 58 in., S-2-S.
2 plate rails, 1/2 by 2 by 58 in., S-4-S.
1 plate rail, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 58 in., S-4-S.
2 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
2 rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 21 in., S-4-S.
4 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 panels, 3/8 by 18-3/4 by 10 in., S-2-S.
1 back rail, 7/8 by 2 by 54 in., S-4-S.
1 back rail, 7/8 by 3-1/8 by 54 in., S-4-S.
1 back rail, 7/8 by 3 by 54 in., S-4-S.
2 back stiles, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S.
2 back stiles, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S.
1 back panel, 3/8 by 10 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.
1 back panel, 3/8 by 11-1/2 by 53 in., S-2-S.
2 back panels, 3/8 by 11 by 11 in., S-2-S.
1 drawer front, 3/4 by 3 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 6 by 52-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 drawer ends, 1/2 by 3 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
4 drawer ends, 1/2 by 4 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
4 drawer ends, 5/8 by 6 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
3 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.
2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 6 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.
3 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.
2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.
2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 54 in., S-4-S.
10 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
2 middle verticals, 3/4 by 22 by 13 in., S-2-S.
Drawer guides can be made from scrap stock.

A detailed description is hardly necessary for such a piece of work as this.
Anyone capable of building it, will know the order of the different
operations that are required in its construction.

Detail of the Sideboard
It may be said that the two back panels at either side of the small drawers
may be filled with beveled plate glass instead of wood if one so choose.

Transcriber's Notes:

Moved table of contents to the head of the document
Added a List of Illustrations
Folio 4: "Millplaned" changed to "Mill-planed"
Folio 34: Started new paragraph at "The bottom board...."
Added captions to Illustrations:
Folio 33: "Umbrella Stand"
Folio 34: "Detail of Umbrella Stand"
Folio 54" "Detail of Pedestal"

*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION
FURNITURE: HOW TO MAKE IT, PART 3 ***

Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will be
renamed.

Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright law
means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the
Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States
without permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules,
set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to copying
and distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the
PROJECT GUTENBERG™ concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a
registered trademark, and may not be used if you charge for an eBook,
except by following the terms of the trademark license, including paying
royalties for use of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge
anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is
very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation
of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project Gutenberg
eBooks may be modified and printed and given away—you may do
practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected by
U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark license,
especially commercial redistribution.

START: FULL LICENSE

THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG™ LICENSE
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK

To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free
distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work (or any
other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project Gutenberg”), you
agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project Gutenberg License
available with this file or online at www.gutenberg.org/license.

Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing
Project Gutenberg electronic works

1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg electronic work,
you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to and accept all the
terms of this license and intellectual property (trademark/copyright)
agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all the terms of this agreement,
you must cease using and return or destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg
electronic works in your possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy
of or access to a Project Gutenberg electronic work and you do not agree to
be bound by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the
person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.

1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be used on
or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who agree to be
bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few things that you can
do with most Project Gutenberg electronic works even without complying
with the full terms of this agreement. See paragraph 1.C below. There are a
lot of things you can do with Project Gutenberg electronic works if you
follow the terms of this agreement and help preserve free future access to
Project Gutenberg electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below.

1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the Foundation”
or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
Gutenberg electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the
collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an individual
work is unprotected by copyright law in the United States and you are

located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative works
based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg are
removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project Gutenberg
mission of promoting free access to electronic works by freely sharing
Project Gutenberg works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for
keeping the Project Gutenberg name associated with the work. You can
easily comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the
same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg License when you
share it without charge with others.

1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in a
constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check the
laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement before
downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or creating
derivative works based on this work or any other Project Gutenberg work.
The Foundation makes no representations concerning the copyright status
of any work in any country other than the United States.

1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:

1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
access to, the full Project Gutenberg License must appear prominently
whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg work (any work on which the
phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the phrase “Project
Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, copied
or distributed:

This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States
and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it
under the terms of the Project Gutenberg™ License included with
this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in
the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country
where you are located before using this eBook.

1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg electronic work is derived from
texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not contain a notice
indicating that it is posted with permission of the copyright holder), the
work can be copied and distributed to anyone in the United States without
paying any fees or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a
work with the phrase “Project Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on
the work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs
1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
Project Gutenberg trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.

1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg electronic work is posted with the
permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution must comply
with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional terms imposed
by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked to the Project
Gutenberg License for all works posted with the permission of the
copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.

1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg License
terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this work or any
other work associated with Project Gutenberg.

1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without prominently
displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with active links or
immediate access to the full terms of the Project Gutenberg License.

1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or
distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg work in a format other than “Plain
Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official version posted on the
official Project Gutenberg website (www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no
additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a copy, a means of
exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work
in its original “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format
must include the full Project Gutenberg License as specified in paragraph
1.E.1.

1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, performing,
copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg works unless you comply
with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.

1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing access to
or distributing Project Gutenberg electronic works provided that:

• You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from the
use of Project Gutenberg works calculated using the method you
already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed to the
owner of the Project Gutenberg trademark, but he has agreed to donate
royalties under this paragraph to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid within 60 days
following each date on which you prepare (or are legally required to
prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty payments should be clearly
marked as such and sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
Foundation at the address specified in Section 4, “Information about
donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.”

• You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he does
not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™ License. You
must require such a user to return or destroy all copies of the works
possessed in a physical medium and discontinue all use of and all
access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™ works.

• You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of
receipt of the work.

• You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free distribution
of Project Gutenberg™ works.

1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg™
electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set forth in
this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of the Project

Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3
below.

1.F.

1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread works
not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project Gutenberg™
collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™ electronic works, and
the medium on which they may be stored, may contain “Defects,” such as,
but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or corrupt data, transcription
errors, a copyright or other intellectual property infringement, a defective or
damaged disk or other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that
damage or cannot be read by your equipment.

1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except
for the “Right of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the
Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all liability to
you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal fees. YOU AGREE
THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT
EXCEPT THOSE PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE
THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY
DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE LIABLE
TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL,
PUNITIVE OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE
NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGE.

1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you
discover a defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you
can receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you
received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with the
defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a refund.
If you received the work electronically, the person or entity providing it to

you may choose to give you a second opportunity to receive the work
electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy is also defective, you
may demand a refund in writing without further opportunities to fix the
problem.

1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth in
paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’, WITH NO OTHER
WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING
BUT NOT LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR
FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.

1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied warranties or
the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. If any disclaimer or
limitation set forth in this agreement violates the law of the state applicable
to this agreement, the agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum
disclaimer or limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity
or unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the
remaining provisions.

1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in accordance
with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works,
harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, that
arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do or cause
to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg work, (b)
alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg
work, and (c) any Defect you cause.

Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project
Gutenberg

Project Gutenberg is synonymous with the free distribution of electronic
works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers including
obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists because of the

efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from people in all walks of
life.

Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the assistance
they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg’s goals and ensuring
that the Project Gutenberg collection will remain freely available for
generations to come. In 2001, the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
Foundation was created to provide a secure and permanent future for
Project Gutenberg and future generations. To learn more about the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations
can help, see Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at
www.gutenberg.org.

Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation

The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit 501(c)
(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the state of
Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal Revenue Service.
The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification number is 64-6221541.
Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation are tax
deductible to the full extent permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state’s
laws.

The Foundation’s business office is located at 41 Watchung Plaza #516,
Montclair NJ 07042, USA, +1 (862) 621-9288. Email contact links and up
to date contact information can be found at the Foundation’s website and
official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact

Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation

Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without widespread
public support and donations to carry out its mission of increasing the
number of public domain and licensed works that can be freely distributed
in machine-readable form accessible by the widest array of equipment

including outdated equipment. Many small donations ($1 to $5,000) are
particularly important to maintaining tax exempt status with the IRS.

The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United States.
Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a considerable effort,
much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up with these
requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations where we have not
received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND DONATIONS or
determine the status of compliance for any particular state visit
www.gutenberg.org/donate.

While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we have
not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition against
accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who approach us
with offers to donate.

International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make any
statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from outside the
United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.

Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation methods
and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other ways including
checks, online payments and credit card donations. To donate, please visit:
www.gutenberg.org/donate.

Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg
electronic works

Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg
concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared with
anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project Gutenberg
eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.

Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed editions,
all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in the U.S. unless a

copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily keep eBooks in
compliance with any particular paper edition.

Most people start at our website which has the main PG search facility:
www.gutenberg.org.

This website includes information about Project Gutenberg, including how
to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation,
how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to subscribe to our email
newsletter to hear about new eBooks.