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Title: Motorcycle, Solo (Harley-Davidson Model WLA)

Author: United States. War Department

Release date: January 27, 2016 [eBook #51058]
Most recently updated: October 22, 2024

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MOTORCYCLE,
SOLO (HARLEY-DAVIDSON MODEL WLA) ***

1
TM 9–879
RESTRICTED

⎫
TECHNICAL MANUAL WAR DEPARTMENT
⎬
No. 9–879 Washington, 18 October 1943
⎭

MOTORCYCLE, SOLO
(Harley‐Davidson Model WLA)
Dissemination of restricted matter.—The information contained in restricted
documents, and the essential characteristics of restricted materiel, may be
given to any person known to be in the service of the United States, and to
persons of undoubted loyalty and discretion who are cooperating in
Government work, but will not be communicated to the public or to the press
except by authorized military public relations agencies. (See also paragraph
18b, AR 380–5, 28 September 1942.)

CONTENTS
PART ONE—VEHICLE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Paragraphs Pages
Section I Introduction 1–2 3–6
II Description and tabulated data 3–4 7–8
III Controls and operation 5–13 9–19
IV First echelon, preventive maintenance
services 14–18 20–29
V Lubrication 19–20 30–34
VI Tools and equipment stowage on the
vehicle 21–23 35–38
PART TWO—ORGANIZATIONAL MAINTENANCE
Section VII Maintenance allocation 24–25 39–44
VIII Second echelon preventive maintenance
services 26 45–59
IX Organization tools and equipment 27 60
X Trouble shooting 28–38 61–71
XI Engine 39–44 72–77
XII Engine—removal and installation 45–46 78–84
XIII Clutch 47–52 85–95
XIVTransmission 53–58 96–104
XV 105–
Chains and sprockets
59–66 114
XVI 115–
Fuel system
67–74 121
XVII 122–
Intake and exhaust system
75–81 128
XVIII 129–
Ignition system
82–89 141
XIX 142–
Generating system
90–95 148

XX 149–
Brake system
96–97 153
XXI 154–
Steering control
98–101 166
XXII 167–
Sheet metal and equipment
102–111 180
XXIII 181–
Battery, lighting system, horn
112–118 190
XXIV 191–
Instrument panel
119–121 192
XXV 193–
Tires, wheels, and hubs
122–127 199
References 200
Index 201
1 For supersession of quartermaster manuals, refer to paragraph 2.

PART ONE—OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Section I

INTRODUCTION

Paragraph
Scope 1
Supersession of quartermaster manuals 2

1. SCOPE.
a. This technical manual2 is published for the information and guidance
of the using arm personnel charged with the operation, maintenance, and
minor repair of this materiel.
b. In addition to a description of the Harley‐Davidson motorcycle, this
manual contains technical information required for the identification, use,
and care of the materiel. The manual is divided into two parts. Part One,
section I through section VI, gives vehicle operating instructions. Part Two,
section VII through section XXV, gives vehicle maintenance instructions to
using arm personnel charged with the responsibility of doing maintenance
work within their jurisdiction.
c. In all cases where the nature of the repair, modifications, or adjustment
is beyond the scope or facilities of the unit, the responsible ordnance service
should be informed so that trained personnel with suitable tools and
equipment may be provided, or proper instructions issued.

2. SUPERSESSION OF QUARTERMASTER MANUALS.
a. This technical manual, together with TM 9–1879, supersedes and
replaces the following Quartermaster Corps publications:
(1) TM 10–1175—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo, Harley‐
Davidson (Model 42–WLA), 11 September 1941.

(2) TM 10–1177—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo, Harley‐
Davidson (Models 1940–41–42), 11 September 1941.
(3) TM 10–1331—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, chain drive Harley‐
Davidson (Model 42 WLA, solo).
(4) TM 10–1359—Instruction folder (45–A) motorcycles, solo, Harley‐
Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), 25 November
1941.
(5) TM 10–1361—Instruction folder (45–B) motorcycle, solo, Harley‐
Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), 25 November
1941.

RA PD 315708
Figure 1—Top View of Motorcycle

RA PD 315709
Figure 2—Left Side View of Motorcycle

RA PD 315710
Figure 3—Right Side View of Motorcycle

2 To provide operating instructions with the materiel, this technical manual
has been published in advance of complete technical review. Any errors or
omissions will be corrected by changes or, if extensive, by an early revision.

Section II

DESCRIPTION AND TABULATED DATA

Paragraph
Description 3
Data 4

3. DESCRIPTION (figs. 1, 2, and 3).
a. This 2‐cylinder solo motorcycle is powered by a V‐type, air‐cooled
gasoline engine, operating on conventional 4‐stroke, 4‐cycle principles. Air‐
cooled engines rely upon movement of air over cylinder and head radiating
fins, and upon circulation of oil for dissipation of excessive heat.
Motorcycle engines, therefore, under no conditions should be operated for
more than 1 minute when motorcycle is not in motion.

4. DATA.

a. Vehicle Specifications.
Type of engine 2‐cylinder, V‐type L‐head, air‐
cooled
Cylinder bore 2¾ in.
Stroke 313⁄16 in.
Engine number (serial) left side engine base, below front cylinder.
Wheelbase 4 ft 11½ in.
Length over‐all 7 ft 4 in.
Width over‐all (handle bars) 3 ft 5 in.
Wheel size 18 in.
Tire size 4.00 × 18 in.
Tire type Drop center
Weight of vehicle (without rider or
armament) 540 lb.
Ground clearance (skid plate) 4 in.
Kind and grade of fuel Gasoline: 72 octane or higher

High gear ratio 4.59:1
Engine sprocket 31‐tooth
Countershaft sprocket 17‐tooth
Rear wheel sprocket 41‐tooth
b. Performance.
Maximum allowable speed 65 mph
Miles per gallon (hard surface) 35
Cruising range (without refill) 100 miles
Fording depth (carburetor) 18 in.
c. Capacities.
Fuel capacity (left tank) 33⁄8 U.S. gal
Oil tank capacity (right tank) 11⁄8 U.S. gal
Transmission capacity ¾ pt

Section III

CONTROLS AND OPERATION

Paragraph
Controls 5
Engine prestarting instructions 6
Starting the engine 7
Stopping the engine 8
Operation of vehicle 9
Driving precautions 10
Stopping and parking vehicle 11
Towing vehicle to start engine 12
Running‐in new engine (or vehicle) 13

RA PD 310201
Figure 4—Controls

5. CONTROLS (fig. 4).
a. Controls are peculiar to the motorcycle. The rider must become
thoroughly familiar with the location and use of all control devices before
attempting to operate vehicle.
b. Gasoline Valve (figs. 5 and 6). Gasoline valve is located in left tank,
forward. Valve is closed by turning to the right, finger tight. Turning to left
opens valve. Valve is in normal operating position when turned to left, with
valve head down. Lifting valve head releases emergency supply of fuel (3
quarts).

RA PD 310202
Figure 5—Fuel Supply Valve

RA PD 310293
Figure 6—Fuel Supply Valve Positions

c. Throttle. The throttle is controlled by right handle bar grip. Turning
grip inward opens throttle, turning it outward closes throttle.
d. Spark. Spark is controlled by left handle bar grip. Turning grip inward
advances spark, turning it outward retards spark.
e. Clutch (fig. 7). Clutch is operated by left foot (rocker‐type) pedal,
connecting with steel cable, which actuates clutch release lever. Pedal is
located on left side of motorcycle above footboard. Forward downward
(toe) position of pedal engages clutch. Rear downward (heel) position of
pedal disengages clutch. Foot pedal provided with friction device to retain it
in either engaged or disengaged position.

RA PD 310204
Figure 7—Clutch Pedal Positions

RA PD 310205
Figure 8—Gear Shifter Lever Positions

f. Service Brake (Rear Wheel). Foot pedal is located on right side of
motorcycle at forward end of footboard.
g. Auxiliary Brake (Front Wheel). Auxiliary brake is operated by hand
lever located on left handle bar. It is used in conjunction with service brake,
as an emergency brake, or for holding vehicle while starting engine on
grade. CAUTION: Brake is to be applied lightly and cautiously on wet and
slippery roads.
h. Gear Shifter (fig. 8). Shifter lever is located on left tank, forward
position, and operates within a guide. Shifter lever guide is notched for

positive location of gears and each position is identified, front to rear: “1”—
low gear; “N”—neutral; “2”—second gear; “3”—direct high gear.

RA PD 310206
Figure 9—Carburetor Choke Lever Positions

i. Steering Damper. Steering damper is an adjustable friction device to
damper turning action of forks, steady front wheel, and prevent wobble in
rough terrain or at high speeds, and is located on top of steering head in
center of handle bars. Move handle to right to apply desired friction.
j. Foot Starter Crank (fig. 1). The foot starter crank is located on right
side of motorcycle. Gear shifter lever must be in neutral position, and clutch
foot pedal in forward engaged position, before using foot starter crank.
Starter crank normally is in upward position. Straddle motorcycle, place
right foot on starter crank, and shift weight of body for forceful downward
crank operation to start engine.
k. Ignition and Light Switch. Earlier models are provided with switch
lock, later models are nonlocking. Switch is off in straight‐forward position.
First position to right is for engine ignition only. Second position to right is

for ignition and blackout lights. To use vehicle service lights, depress button
to turn switch to third right position.
l. Instrument Panel Signal Lights. Instead of an ammeter and oil
pressure gage, signal lights indicate generator charging, and engine oil
pressure.
(1) Green light is located on left side of instrument panel. When engine is
running, and light is out, it indicates generator is charging.
(2) Red light is located on right side of instrument panel. When engine is
running, and light is out, it indicates engine oil is circulating.
m. Carburetor Choke (fig. 9). Choke lever is in full prime position
when all the way up, and in normal running position when all the way
down.

6. ENGINE PRESTARTING INSTRUCTIONS.
a. Before the engine is started, perform the Before‐operation Service
outlined in paragraph 15. Special care must be taken during starting and
warming‐up period to avoid unnecessary engine wear.
b. The rider must acquire correct motorcycle engine starting habits, and
learn to do the job the quickest, easiest, and most dependable way. The
following pointers will be helpful to the beginner as well as to a seasoned
rider:
(1) Mount (straddle) motorcycle to obtain firm grip on handle bars.
(2) Leave side stand (jiffy stand) outward to support vehicle while
operating foot starter crank with right foot.
(3) Engine starting will be benefited by use of front wheel, hand‐operated
brake, to prevent vehicle from rolling or shifting during starting kicks. This
is especially helpful if vehicle is parked on an incline or on soft, uneven
surface.
c. The procedure outlined below is preparatory to starting either cold,
warm, or hot engine:
(1) Place gear shifter lever in “N” (neutral) position (fig. 8).

(2) See that gasoline shut‐off valve is open (fig. 5).
(3) Engage clutch (fig. 7).
(4) Spark control (left) grip must be turned inward to fully advanced
position, or nearly so.
(5) Foot starter crank may travel ½ way downward before starting
engine. See that a full vigorous starter stroke is used. A vigorous kick, using
a full swing (not a jab) of right leg and hip, is correct engine starting
practice.

7. STARTING THE ENGINE.
a. Procedure for starting cold, warm, or hot motorcycle engines differs.
Therefore, following instructions are used with paragraph 6 c to cover
correct procedure in all three cases.
b. Starting Cold Engine. When vehicle has not been operated for some
time, and engine is normally cold, follow progressive procedure for easiest
starting.
(1) Set carburetor choke lever in full upward (closed) position.
(2) Open throttle wide by turning right grip inward as far as it will go.
(3) Prime cylinders by operating foot starter crank one or two strokes.
(4) Set carburetor choke lever in ¼ to ½ closed position for mild weather
starting: ¾ closed (or leave fully choked) for extremely cold weather
starting. CAUTION: It is only in extremely cold weather that engine may
start best with choke fully closed, and even then it will have to be moved
from this position immediately after engine is started.
(5) Set throttle (right) grip to slightly open position.
(6) Turn ignition switch on, first right position.
(7) Start engine with vigorous strokes of foot starter crank.
(8) When engine starts, set throttle for moderate idling speed for warming
up, or until ready to set vehicle in motion. Do not race engine unnecessarily.
(9) After engine warms up, and misfires due to an overrich mixture,
gradually move choke lever downward. After engine has thoroughly

warmed up, move choke lever to fully open (downward) position.
c. Starting Warm Engine. Following instructions apply to engine when
halfway between hot and cold. With engine in this condition, carburetor
choking must be handled cautiously.
(1) Lift choke lever to first upward position from normal (¼ closed).
(2) Set throttle (right) grip to fully closed (outward) position.
(3) Operate foot starter crank one or two strokes.
(4) Set throttle grip to between ¼ and 1⁄3 open position.
(5) Turn ignition switch on.
(6) Start engine with vigorous strokes of foot starter crank.
(7) Soon after engine starts, choke lever must be moved to fully open
(downward) position.
(8) Turn throttle grip to control idling speed of engine.
d. Starting Hot Engine. If engine has been shut off for only a brief
period and is near normal operating temperature, it is not necessary to use
carburetor choke lever. With some engines, depending upon carburetor
condition and adjustment, hot starting is easier and more dependable if foot
starter crank is operated one stroke before turning ignition switch on.
(1) Close throttle grip by turning fully outward.
(2) Turn ignition switch on.
(3) Operate foot starter crank to start engine.
(4) When hot engine does not start readily after two or three strokes of
the foot starter crank, it is usually due to an overrich (flooded) condition,
and the proper procedure then is to open throttle wide so that more air can
enter: close throttle quickly after engine starts. CAUTION: After engine has
warmed up to a normal operating temperature, do not allow engine to stand
idling for longer than a 1 minute interval.
e. Starting Engine with Dead Battery. See paragraph 12.
f. Behavior of Instrument Panel Signal Lights. Function of generator
(green) signal light depends upon action of cut‐out relay; engine oil

pressure (red) signal light depends upon action of oil feed pump. Rider
must, therefore, thoroughly understand operating characteristics of both
signal lights to judge condition of generator‐battery circuit and pressure in
engine oil circulating system.
(1) When ignition light switch is turned to first (right) position,
preparatory to starting engine, both green and red signal lights should go
on. CAUTION: When switch is turned on, immediately after engine has
been primed by cranking, red (oil pressure) signal light may not light at
once, but will light after a few seconds, due to oil pressure built up by
cranking, and is most likely to be noticed in cold weather.
(2) With engine started and running at medium idling speed, both signal
lights should go off. CAUTION: Should oil pressure (red) signal light fail
to go off at speeds above idling, conditions must be brought to attention of
unit mechanic.
(3) At slow idle speed, or under approximately 20 miles per hour road
speed (in high gear), generator (green) signal light will normally flash on
and off, because at that speed generator voltage output is very low and
unsteady. CAUTION: Should generator (green) signal light fail to go off at
speed above approximately 20 miles per hour, generator is either not
charging at all, or its current output is not up to normal, and generator
should be given attention at once.

8. STOPPING THE ENGINE.
a. Stop engine only by turning ignition and light switch to off (straight‐
ahead) position, to prevent discharge of battery through spark coil primary
circuit.

9. OPERATION OF VEHICLE.
a. Starting on Level Ground. The engine having been warmed up and
checked for satisfactory operation, the vehicle (with operator in riding
position) is put in motion as follows:
(1) Transfer body weight to right leg.
(2) Fold back side stand (jiffy stand).

(3) Disengage clutch by depressing clutch foot pedal with heel of left
foot.
(4) Shift gear shifter lever into “1” (low) gear position.
(5) Slowly engage clutch by depressing clutch foot pedal with toe of left
foot.
(6) When clutch starts to “take hold,” open throttle sufficiently to
maintain engine speed.
(7) Accelerate gradually to between 12 and 15 miles per hour in low gear.
(8) Close throttle quickly.
(9) Disengage clutch.
(10) Shift through “N” (neutral) position into “2” (second) gear.
(11) Reengage clutch and accelerate to about 25 miles per hour.
(12) Close throttle quickly.
(13) Disengage clutch.
(14) Shift into “3” (high) gear.
(15) Reengage clutch and accelerate to desired speed.
b. Starting on Uneven or Soft Ground.
(1) If standing on an incline or in loose, heavy ground, more engine
power will be required to start vehicle without stalling engine.
(2) It may be necessary to keep vehicle from rolling by keeping pressure
on front brake hand lever. Brake pressure is released after vehicle starts in
forward motion.
(3) Open throttle and engage clutch at same time to provide power
needed for starting, without racing engine unnecessarily.
(4) Motorcycle starts should be made without excessive application of
power, with consequent unnecessary spinning of rear wheel.

10. DRIVING PRECAUTIONS.

a. Practice will enable a rider to judge at what rate of speed the
motorcycle should be moving before he shifts from a lower to higher gear,
and engine should never be permitted to labor unduly, when a shift of gears,
higher to lower, would improve operation.
(1) Operator must not look down at gear shifter when shifting gears, but
keep his eyes on the road ahead. Do not ride the clutch. The operator’s foot
should rest on clutch foot pedal only when he is operating it. When shifting
gears, disengage clutch fully to avoid gear damage and shifting difficulties.
CAUTION: Many transmissions are ruined through failure to disengage
clutch fully when shifting gears.
b. Braking. Rear wheel service brake must be in such condition that
medium‐hard application will cause rear wheel to lock. Application of
service brake should be gradual, with just enough force to accomplish
desired result.
(1) Auxiliary front wheel brake, when used in conjunction with service
brake, must be applied with caution, especially on wet, muddy, or slippery
roads.
(2) After passing through water, the brakes should be set slightly, and the
vehicle operated for a short distance, until sufficient heat has been
generated to dry the brakes.
c. Avoid Low Gear Operation. Always operate vehicle in highest gear
possible, consistent with tactical situation, speed required, power required,
and kind and nature of road substance, to prevent overheating of engine.
d. High Speed Tips. Only experienced riders should indulge in high‐
speed riding. A motorcycle operated for long distances at high speed must
be given closer than ordinary attention to avoid serious engine overheating
with consequent damage. For better motorcycle service, apply the following
suggestions:
(1) Develop habit of frequently snapping throttle shut for an instant when
running at high speed. This draws additional lubrication to piston and
cylinder and assists in cooling engine.
(2) In cool weather, operate engine slowly until it is thoroughly warmed
up, to avoid damage to pistons, rings, cylinders, and other parts before oil is
warm enough to circulate freely.

(3) If handle bar windshield and leg shields are used, engine is more
likely to overheat with continued high‐speed riding. Watch this carefully.
(4) Adjust “steering damper” for best control of motorcycle consistent
with riding speed and condition and nature of road.

11. STOPPING AND PARKING VEHICLE.
a. Stopping Vehicle. Rider will make a “restart” easier and quicker if he
will apply the following instructions upon stopping vehicle:
(1) Close throttle.
(2) Disengage clutch.
(3) Apply brake (or brakes) to slow vehicle without sliding rear tire.
(4) Just before coming to a complete stop, shift into “N” (neutral)
position and engage clutch. CAUTION: If immediate restart is to be made,
shift into “1” (low) gear and allow clutch foot pedal to remain in
disengaged position. (Rider will be mounted on motorcycle with engine
running.)
(5) Continue brake application to complete stop.
(6) After vehicle slows to point where it can no longer be balanced by
steering, place left foot on ground to maintain balance until right foot can
be removed from brake operating pedal. CAUTION: Do not idle engine
longer than 1 minute.
(7) Stop engine by turning ignition switch off.
b. Parking Vehicle.
(1) Lean motorcycle on side (jiffy) stand.
(2) Shift into “1” (low) gear.
(3) Engage clutch so vehicle cannot roll.
(4) Shut off gasoline supply by turning valve (to right) finger‐tight
against its seat.

12. TOWING VEHICLE TO START ENGINE.

a. In emergencies when engine cannot be started with foot starter crank,
it can be started by towing the motorcycle.
(1) Set gear shifter lever in “2” (second) gear position.
(2) Disengage clutch.
(3) Choke carburetor.
(4) Turn ignition switch on.
(5) After momentum of the towed motorcycle reaches between 10 and 15
miles per hour, engage clutch, and continue procedure until engine starts.
b. Engine Starting with Dead Battery. Emergency engine starting with
dead battery can be effected by making use of freshly charged battery, or by
towing as outlined above. If vehicle with dead battery is to be towed for
engine starting, proceed as follows:
(1) Disconnect battery negative wire from ground on right side of
motorcycle.
(2) Tow motorcycle for engine starting.
(3) After engine is started, reconnect battery ground wire to frame to
prevent damage to electrical system.

13. RUNNING‐IN NEW ENGINE (OR VEHICLE).
a. A new motorcycle engine or newly overhauled engine must be given
proper “break‐in” consideration for at least the first 1,000 to 1,200 miles of
service. Failure to do this may result in damage that will put engine out of
active service within a short period of time.
b. At the first 250 miles, check front and rear drive chains to make sure
they are receiving required amount of oil for ample lubrication. If
necessary, have chain oilers adjusted by unit mechanic. Drive chains must
be inspected for correct adjustment, and be given attention by unit
mechanic as needed.
c. At first 500 miles, drain oil tank and refill with fresh oil. Check front
and rear chains (step b above). Thereafter, follow instructions in
Maintenance Operation section.

d. After a new motorcycle has been run 500 to 1,000 miles it needs to be
thoroughly checked over and any loose screws and nuts tightened.
Particular attention must be given engine and transmission mounting bolts
and nuts, and to rear wheel mounting socket screws.
e. Following pointers must be observed when running‐in new engine or
newly overhauled engine:
(1) Do not exceed 30 miles per hour during first 100 miles.
(2) Do not exceed 35 miles per hour during next 200 miles.
(3) Do not exceed 40 miles per hour during next 400 miles.
(4) Do not exceed 50 miles per hour during next 500 miles.
(5) Avoid use of low gears during break‐in operation as much as possible.

Section IV

FIRST ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICES

Paragraph
Purpose 14
Before‐operation service 15
During‐operation service 16
At‐halt service 17
After‐operation and weekly service 18

14. PURPOSE.
a. To insure mechanical efficiency it is necessary that the vehicle be
systematically inspected at intervals each day it is operated and weekly, so
that defects may be discovered and corrected before they result in serious
damage or failure. Certain scheduled maintenance services will be
performed at these designated intervals. The services set forth in this section
are those performed by driver or crew before operation, during operation, at
halt, after operation, and weekly.
b. Driver preventive maintenance services are listed on the back of
“Driver’s Trip Ticket and Preventive Maintenance Service Record,” W.D.
Form No. 48, to cover vehicles of all types and models. Items peculiar to
specific vehicles, but not listed on W.D. Form No. 48, are covered in
manual procedures under the items to which they are related. Certain items
listed on the form that do not pertain to the vehicle involved are eliminated
from the procedures as written into the manual. Every organization must
thoroughly school each driver in performing the maintenance procedures set
forth in manuals, whether or not they are listed specifically on W.D. Form
No. 48.
c. The items listed on W.D. Form No. 48 that apply to this vehicle are
expanded in this manual to provide specific procedures for accomplishment
of the inspections and services. These services are arranged to facilitate
inspection and conserve the time of the driver, and are not necessarily in the

same numerical order as shown on W.D. Form No. 48. The item numbers,
however, are identical with those shown on that form.
d. The general inspection of each item applies also to any supporting
member or connection, and generally includes a check to see whether the
item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, or excessively worn.
(1) The inspection for “good condition” is usually an external visual
inspection to determine whether the unit is damaged beyond safe or
serviceable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further by the
following: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned, not broken or cracked,
not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or cut.
(2) The inspection of a unit to see that it is “correctly assembled” is
usually an external visual inspection to see whether it is in its normal
assembled position in the vehicle.
(3) The inspection of a unit to determine if it is “secure” is usually an
external visual examination, a hand‐feel, or a pry‐bar check for looseness.
Such an inspection should include any brackets, lock washers, lock nuts,
locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly.
(4) “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn close to, or
beyond, serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not replaced
before the next scheduled inspection.
e. Any defects or unsatisfactory operating characteristics beyond the
scope of first echelon to correct must be reported at the earliest opportunity
to the designated individual in authority.

15. BEFORE‐OPERATION SERVICE.
a. This inspection schedule is designed primarily as a check to see that
the vehicle has not been tampered with, or sabotaged since the After‐
operation Service was performed. Various combat conditions may have
rendered the vehicle unsafe for operation and it is the duty of the driver to
determine whether or not the vehicle is in condition to carry out any
mission to which it is assigned. This operation will not be entirely omitted,
even in extreme tactical situations.

b. Procedures. Before‐operation Service consists of inspecting items
listed below according to the procedure described, and correcting or
reporting any deficiencies. Upon completion of the service, results should
be reported promptly to the designated individual in authority.
(1) Item 1, Tampering and Damage. Look for any injury to vehicle in
general, its accessories or equipment, that may have been caused by
tampering, sabotage, collision, falling debris, or shell fire since parking
vehicle. Look for loosened or damaged accessories, loose fuel or oil lines,
or any disconnected linkage.
(2) Item 3, Fuel and Oil. Inspect tanks for fuel and oil levels, add oil and
fuel as necessary. Any appreciable change in levels since performing After‐
operation Service should be investigated and reported to designated
authority.
(3) Item 4, Accessories and Drives. Examine all accessories such as
carburetor, air cleaner, generator, and cut‐out relay for loose connections,
loose mountings, or leaks. Examine rear chain (final drive) for free up‐and‐
down movement (slack), midway between sprockets. Total up‐and‐down
movement must not be more than 1 inch, nor less than ½ inch. Inspect rear
chain for adequate lubrication.
(4) Item 6, Leaks, General. Examine vehicle and ground under vehicle
for indications of fuel or oil leaks. Normally a few drops of waste oil from
chains may be expected to drop from skid plate.
(5) Item 11, Glass. Clean glass on instruments; clean and adjust rear
view mirror; inspect glass for breakage.
(6) Item 12, Lamps. If tactical situation permits, observe whether blackout
and service lights operate with switch in its respective positions, and go out
when switched off. Also see that lights are secure, and that lenses are clean
and not broken. Observe whether both filaments of service headlight
operate when dimmer switch on left handle bar is moved to its respective
positions.
(7) Item 13, Wheels, Axle Nuts and Screws. Examine rear wheel
mounting socket screws, front and rear axle nuts, and front fork rocker stud
nuts for tightness. Observe rear chain adjusting screws for secure locking.
Inspect spokes for good condition and tightness.

(8) Item 14, Tires. Examine tires for cuts or imbedded objects in treads or
carcass. If time permits, check air pressure, which should be 18 pounds
front, and 20 pounds rear (tires cold). Inspect valve caps for presence and
secure mounting.
(9) Item 15, Springs and Suspension. Examine front fork springs for
secure mounting and good condition. Push down rear of saddle to test for
full action of saddle post spring.
(10) Item 16, Steering and Handle Bar Controls. Test steering head
bearing adjustment by exerting strong upward pull at handle bar grips, and
observing whether or not there is any noticeable play in bearing. Operate
steering damper lever and observe that damper is compressed before lever
reaches right‐side position, and is fully released with lever in left‐side
position. Test handle bar grip controls for full, free action; also test for
complete opening and closing of throttle, and full advance and retard of
timer.
(11) Item 17, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards,
and Stands. Examine these items for good condition and secure mounting.

(12) Item 21, Tools and Equipment. Inspect tools and equipment for
presence, serviceability, and proper stowage. (See tool list in par. 21.)
(13) Item 7, Engine Warm‐up. Start engine, noting any tendency toward
hard starting, or improper action of foot starter crank. Set throttle to
moderate idle speed. Listen for unusual noises. Watch instrument
indications and engine performance, such as misfiring. CAUTION: Do not
idle engine longer than 1 minute with vehicle standing.
(14) Item 8, Choke. During idling of engine, reset choke as required to
prevent excessive choking and dilution of engine oil.
(15) Item 9, Instruments. When switch is turned on and engine is idling
at moderate speed both red light (indicating oil pressure) and green light
(indicating generator action) should be out. At lower operating speeds
generator‐indicating light may flicker. CAUTION: Do not operate engine
with red light on (no oil pressure).
(16) Item 10, Horn. Tactical situation permitting, test horn.

(17) Item 22, Engine Operation. Engine should idle smoothly. Accelerate
and decelerate, listening for any unusual noises that may indicate
compression or exhaust leaks, worn, damaged, loose, or inadequately
lubricated engine parts, or accessories. Note any unusual smoke from
exhaust.
(18) Item 23, Driver’s Permit, Accident Report Form No. 26, and
Vehicle Manual. These items must be present on vehicle and safely
stowed.
(19) Item 25, During‐operation Service. The During‐operation Service
should start immediately after vehicle is put in motion, in the nature of a
road test.

16. DURING‐OPERATION SERVICE.
a. While vehicle is in motion, listen for any sounds such as rattles,
knocks, squeals, or hums that may indicate trouble. Be alert to detect any
odor of overheated components or units such as generator, brakes, or clutch,
fuel vapor from a leak in fuel system, exhaust gas, or other signs of trouble.
Any time the brakes are used, gears shifted, or vehicle turned, consider this
a test and notice any unsatisfactory or unusual performance. Watch the
instruments constantly. Notice promptly any unusual instrument indication
that may signify possible trouble in system to which the instrument applies.
b. Procedures. During‐operation Service consists of observing items
listed below according to the procedures following each item, and
investigating any indications of serious trouble. Notice minor deficiencies
to be corrected or reported at earliest opportunity, usually at next scheduled
halt.
(1) Item 27, Foot and Hand Brakes. The foot brake should operate
smoothly and effectively, leaving reserve pedal travel of 1 inch. Normal
free play before operation is 1 inch. Test hand brake lever for free play,
which should be ¼ of total handle travel. Test for ease and smoothness of
operation.
(2) Item 28, Clutch. Inspect clutch for disengagement at about ½ pedal
travel. Clutch should not chatter, squeal, or slip.

(3) Item 29, Transmission. Gears should shift smoothly, operate quietly,
and not jump out of mesh during operation. If transmission jumps out of
mesh in any gear, this indicates need of shifter control adjustment.
(4) Item 31, Engine and Controls. Be alert for deficiency in engine
performance such as lack of usual power, misfiring, unusual noise, stalling,
indication of engine overheating, or unusual exhaust smoke. Notice whether
engine responds to controls satisfactorily, whether controls appear to be in
proper adjustment and are sufficiently tight.
(5) Item 32, Instruments. Observe instruments for indication of normal
functioning of systems to which they apply.
(a) Speedometer and Odometer. Speedometer should indicate vehicle
speed without excessive noise or fluctuation. Odometer should record trip
and total mileage.
(b) Oil Pressure Signal Light. Red light should be off during operation. If
light goes on, stop vehicle and investigate for oil pressure failure.
(c) Generator Signal Light. Green light should be off above 20 miles per
hour. Battery discharge is indicated by green light being on.
(6) Item 33, Steering. Adjust steering damper to desired steering friction.
Observe vehicle steering for wander, shimmy, leading to one side, or wheel
hop.
(7) Item 34, Running Gear. Listen for any unusual noises from wheels,
axles, or suspension parts that might indicate looseness or damage.
(8) Item 35, Chassis. Be alert for noises that might indicate loose
accessories, controls, attachments, or equipment.

17. AT‐HALT SERVICE.
a. At‐halt Service may be regarded as minimum maintenance procedures
and should be performed under all tactical conditions, even though more
extensive maintenance services must be slighted or omitted altogether.
b. Procedures. At‐halt Service consists of investigating any deficiencies
noted during operation, inspecting items listed below according to the
procedures following the items, and correcting any deficiencies found.

Deficiencies not corrected should be reported promptly to the designated
individual in authority.
(1) Item 38, Fuel and Oil. Replenish fuel and oil as may be required to
reach next refilling point. CAUTION: Left tank is for fuel; right tank is for
oil. Filler caps should not be interchanged, as only fuel tank cap is vented.
(2) Item 39, Temperatures. Hand‐feel wheel hubs and brake drums for
overheating.
(3) Item 40, Vents. Make sure that crankcase breather outlet and rear
chain oil feed pipe are clear. Make sure grease drains in front and rear brake
side covers are open and clean.
(4) Item 42, Springs and Suspensions. Look for broken springs in fork.
(5) Item 43, Steering. Investigate any difficulty developed during riding.
(6) Item 44, Wheels and Mounting Screws. Inspect wheels for broken,
bent, or loose spokes. Also, look for loose axle nuts or rear wheel mounting
screws. Inspect wheel rims for good condition.
(7) Item 45, Tires. Examine tires for low pressure or damage. Remove
foreign matter from tire treads; inspect for cuts.
(8) Item 46, Leaks, General. Inspect vehicle for indication of fuel, oil, or
battery leaks.
(9) Item 47, Accessories and Chain. Examine accessories for loose
connections, loose mountings, or damage. Examine rear drive chain for
broken rollers, broken link side plates, and broken or missing connecting
link spring clips. Inspect chain for adequate lubrication.
(10) Item 48, Air Cleaner. Air cleaner must be secure, with air passages
in good condition and clean. When operating under extremely dusty or
sandy conditions, inspect air cleaner frequently and service as required.
(11) Item 49, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards,
and Stands. Inspect these items for looseness or damage.

(12) Item 52, Appearance and Glass. Clean windshield, rear view mirror,
and light lenses; inspect for good condition, secure attachment, and broken
glass.

18. AFTER‐OPERATION AND WEEKLY SERVICE.
a. After‐operation Service is particularly important, because at this time
the driver inspects his vehicle to detect any deficiencies that may have
developed, and corrects those he is permitted to handle. He should report
promptly, to the designated individual in authority, the results of his
inspection. If this schedule is performed thoroughly, the vehicle should be
ready to roll again on a moment’s notice. The Before‐operation Service,
with a few exceptions, is then necessary only to ascertain whether the
vehicle is in the same condition in which it was left upon completion of the
After‐operation Service. The After‐operation Service should never be
entirely omitted, even in extreme tactical situations, but may be reduced to
the bare fundamental services outlined for the At‐halt Service, if necessary.
b. Procedures. When performing the After‐operation Service, the driver
must remember and consider any irregularities noticed during the day in the
Before‐operation. During‐operation, and At‐halt Services. The After‐
operation Service consists of inspecting and servicing the following items.
Those items of the After‐operation Services that are marked with an asterisk
(*) require additional Weekly services, the procedures for which are
indicated in step (b) of each applicable item.
(1) Item 54, Fuel and Oil. Fill fuel and oil tanks; fill oil tank within 1
inch of top; be sure to put oil in right tank and fuel in left tank; do not
interchange caps. CAUTION: When operating under extremely dusty
conditions, drain engine oil tank and refill with fresh oil as frequently as
excessive contamination of the oil occurs.
(2) Item 55, Engine Operation. Test for satisfactory engine idle without
stalling. Accelerate and decelerate engine, noting any tendency to miss or
backfire, unusual noises, or vibration that may indicate worn parts, loose
mounting, incorrect fuel mixture, or faulty ignition. Investigate any
unsatisfactory engine operating characteristics noted during operation.
Learn to recognize noise caused by loose primary (front) drive chain. Slack
in excess of ½ inch total up‐and‐down motion can cause excessive noise
which sounds like engine knock. Remove inspection cover for examination
of chain.
(3) Item 57, Horn. If tactical situation permits, test horn.

(4) Item 59, Lights. If tactical situation permits, observe whether
blackout and service lights operate with switch in its respective positions,
and go out when switched off. Also see that lights are secure, and lenses
clean and not broken. Observe whether both filaments of service headlight
operate when dimmer switch on left handle bar is moved to its respective
positions.
(5) Item 56, Instruments. Before stopping engine, inspect instruments to
see that indicator lights are still out. Stop engine. After 30 seconds, turn on
switch to see that oil pressure and generator signal lights turn on.
CAUTION: Be sure to turn off ignition switch after this test.
(6) Item 58, Glass. Clean rear view mirror, windshield, instrument, and
light glass. Examine for secure mounting and breakage.
(7) Item 62, *Battery.
(a) Inspect battery carrier for good condition and secure mounting.
Inspect electrolyte level (should be 5⁄16 inch above plates). Inspect for any
signs of leakage of electrolyte indicating battery has been overfilled, poorly
sealed, or damaged. CAUTION: Do not add water unless actually needed.
(b) Weekly. Clean dirt from top of battery, remove battery caps, bring
electrolyte level to 5⁄16 inch above plates, using clean, drinkable water. Clean
terminals or posts if corroded; be sure felt washers are on terminals and
properly oiled; tighten terminal bolts cautiously, if loose. Clean and paint
battery carrier if corroded.
(8) Item 63, *Accessories and Chain.
(a) Inspect carburetor, air cleaner, generator, and cut‐out relay for loose
connections, mountings, or damage. Examine rear drive chain for broken
rollers, broken link side plates, and broken or missing connecting link
spring clips. Examine rear chain (final drive) for free up‐and‐down
movement (slack) midway between sprockets; maximum total allowable
deflection is 1 inch, minimum, ½ inch.
(b) Weekly. Tighten any accessory connections found loose. Wipe excess
dirt from rear chain. Check front chain for adjustment, and inspect for
proper lubrication.
(9) Item 65, *Air Cleaner.

(a) Examine oil cup for excessive dirt and correct oil level. If air cleaner
is excessively dirty, clean elements in dry‐cleaning solvent, refill cup with
fresh oil. Dip elements in oil in oil cup, replacing elements and attaching oil
cup immediately. If gaskets are damaged, replace. Under extremely dusty or
sandy conditions it may be necessary to clean and refill the air cleaner more
than once daily. Inspect hose for leaks.
(b) Weekly. Inspect air cleaner for proper oil level and excessively dirty
oil. Clean and service air cleaner, tighten mounting and hose clamps.
NOTE: Early‐type, round air cleaner does not have removable filter
elements. Complete cleaner must be removed to wash element.
(10) Item 66, *Fuel Filter (Gasoline Strainer).
(a) Clean cap and screen of fuel filter.
(b) Weekly. Clean cap and screen of fuel filter, remove carburetor bowl
drain plug, and drain off water and dirt. Be sure to replace plug, being
careful to avoid cross threading.
(11) Item 67, Engine Controls. Examine throttle and spark controls for
damage to wires or for disconnected linkage. Observe for lack of
lubrication.
(12) Item 68, *Tires.
(a) Remove foreign matter such as nails, glass, or stones from tire treads.
Inspect tires for abnormal tread wear, cuts, or bruises: also for presence and
tightness of valve caps. Inflate tires to 18 pounds front, 20 pounds rear, with
tires cool.
(b) Weekly. Replace badly worn or otherwise unserviceable tires.
(13) Item 69, *Springs and Suspension.
(a) Inspect front fork for broken or sagged springs, loose bolts, studs, and
nuts.
(b) Weekly. Tighten wheel axle nuts and rear brake sleeve nut. Also
tighten rear wheel mounting socket screws very securely.
(14) Item 70, Steering. Inspect steering head for proper adjustment of
bearings. Examine steering damper for correct adjustment.

(15) Item 72, *Vents.
(a) Make sure that crankcase breather outlet and rear chain oil supply
pipe are clear. Make sure grease drains in front and rear brake side covers
are open and clean.
(b) Weekly. Clean crankcase breather outlet, rear chain oil supply pipe,
and grease drains in front and rear brake side covers.
(16) Item 73, Leaks, General. Look around mechanism and beneath
vehicle for indication of fuel, oil, and grease leaks. Examine around brake
drums for evidence of grease in drums or on linings. Normally a few drops
of oil may be expected to drip from skid plate.
(17) Item 74, Gear Oil Levels. Inspect transmission oil level with
vehicle standing on rear stand (not jiffy stand); refill, if required, to level of
filler plug opening with engine oil. CAUTION: Do not use gear oil.
(18) Item 76, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards,
and Stands. Examine these items for good condition and secure mounting.

(19) Item 82, *Tighten.
(a) Inspect all frame and assembly nuts, bolts, and cap screws for
tightness.
(b) Weekly. Tighten all vehicle assembly or mounting nuts. Driver is
cautioned not to tamper with or tighten screws or nuts about the circuit
breaker, as doing so may disturb ignition timing.
(20) Item 83, *Lubricate as Needed.
(a) Lubricate all parts where inspection reveals need for lubrication: wipe
all dirt from fittings before applying lubricant. Report any missing fittings.
(b) Weekly. When vehicle has been driven a sufficient number of miles so
that it is due for a regularly scheduled lubrication, lubricate according to
Lubrication Guide in manual and current lubrication directives. Refrain
from overlubricating wheel bearings, front brake side cover bushing, and
front and rear brake operating lever camshafts.
(21) Item 84, *Clean Engine and Vehicle.
(a) Clean dirt and trash from vehicle and remove excess grease.

(b) Weekly. Wash vehicle if possible. If not, wipe off thoroughly. Do not
rub lustreless paint enough to cause shine. If vehicle is washed in a stream,
care should be taken that water or dirt does not get into bearings, breather
valve, or brakes. CAUTION: It is extremely important that high‐pressure
streams or steam should not be directed against wheel hubs, brakes,
carburetor, air cleaner, or electrical units.
(12) Item 64, *Electrical Wiring.
(a) Inspect all ignition wiring to see that it is securely connected, clean,
and not damaged.
(b) Weekly. Inspect all wiring to see that it is securely connected and
supported, that insulation is not cracked or chafed, that loom, shielding, and
condensers are in good condition and securely attached. Clean as required.
Tighten any loose connections carefully. Radio shielding or bonding
defects, except cleaning or tightening, must be referred to signal corps
personnel.
(23) Item 85, *Tools and Equipment.
(a) See that all tools and equipment assigned to vehicle are present, in
good condition, and properly stowed.
(b) Weekly. Check tools and equipment assigned to vehicle with vehicle
stowage list (par. 21) to see that they are present. Inspect tools for good
condition and proper stowage. Report missing or unserviceable items to
designated authority.

Section V

LUBRICATION

Paragraph
Introduction 19
Lubrication guide 20

19. INTRODUCTION.
a. Lubrication is an essential part of preventive maintenance, determining
to a great extent serviceability of parts and assemblies.

20. LUBRICATION GUIDE (fig. 10).
a. General. Lubrication instructions for this materiel are consolidated in
a Lubrication Guide (fig. 10). These specify the points to be lubricated, the
periods of lubrication, and the lubricant to be used. Intervals indicated on
the guide are for normal service. For extreme conditions, high speed, heat,
mud, snow, rough roads, dust, etc., change engine oil and lubricate more
frequently. In addition to the items on the guide, brake, gear shifter, clutch
control linkage, and hinges must be lubricated at frequent intervals.
b. Supplies. In the field it may not be possible to supply a complete
assortment of lubricants called for by the Lubrication Guide to meet the
recommendations. It will be necessary to make the best use of those
available, subject to inspection by the officer concerned, in consultation
with responsible ordnance personnel.
c. Lubrication Notes. The following notes apply to the Lubrication
Guide (fig. 10). All note references in the guide itself are to the steps below
having the corresponding number:
(1) Brake Fittings. Exercise caution when lubricating brake operating
cams and front brake cover bushing, as excess grease working out of these
bearings is likely to get onto brake lining, reducing brake efficiency.
CAUTION: When using air‐operated grease gun, make sure not to
overlubricate brake fittings.

(2) Brake Hand Lever Oilcan Points. Oil hand lever fittings and “oiler”
mounted on cable housing. Oil front brake control cable at ends of control
cable housing.
(3) Generator Commutator End Bearing. Hand‐pack with general
purpose grease, No. 2, at temperatures above zero. Below zero, use lighter
grease. This operation requires removal of generator end cover. Bearing
outer grease retainer must be loosened and swung aside for access to
bearing. If not convenient to grease bearing at specified intervals, at least
lubricate with a few drops of engine oil applied to hole in outer grease
retainer. Do not overlubricate. CAUTION: Generator regulating brush
plate must not be shifted while bearing outer grease retainer is loose (par.
92). Generator drive end bearing requires no attention, since it is
lubricated by oil circulating through engine.

—— KEY ——
INTERVALS
LUBRICANTS ¼ —250 MILES
OIL, ENGINE (CRANKCASE
OE — ½ —500 MILES
GRADE)
GREASE, GENERAL
CG — 1 —1000 MILES
PURPOSE
No. 1 (ABOVE +32°) 6 —6000 MILES

SPECIAL
No. 1 OR No. 0 (+32° TO +10°) * L—
LUBRICATION
No. 0 (BELOW +10°) CHECK DAILY
GREASE, GENERAL
WB — Air Cleaner
PURPOSE (No. 2)
Engine Oil Tank

TABLE OF CAPACITIES WITH RECOMMENDATIONS AT
TEMPERATURES SHOWN
ABOVE +32° TO BELOW
UNIT CAPACITY
+32° +10° +10°
OE
OE OE
OIL TANK 1 GALLON S.A.E.
S.A.E. 30 S.A.E. 10
50
OE
OE OE
TRANSMISSION ¾ pint S.A.E.
S.A.E. 30 S.A.E. 10
50

RA PD 310207
Figure 10—Lubrication Guide

(4) Spark and Throttle Control Grips. These grips require disassembly.
Twice a year, or whenever grips do not turn freely, indicating need of
lubrication, remove grips, clean parts, apply grease, and reassemble (par.
101).
(5) Air Cleaner. Examine oil cup daily for excessive dirt and correct oil
level. Under extremely dusty or sandy conditions it may be necessary to
clean and refill the air cleaner more than once daily. Refill oil cup to
indicated level with engine oil. Drain, clean, and refill oil cup every 250
miles, depending upon operating conditions. Every 1,000 miles (oftener if
necessary), remove air cleaner filter units, wash in dry‐cleaning solvent,
lubricate, and reassemble (par. 76). NOTE: Early type round cleaner did not
have removable filter element. Complete cleaner must be removed to wash
element.

(6) Wheel Bearings. When wheel hubs are lubricated at regular 500‐mile
interval, 1⁄8 ounce of grease with each greasing is sufficient. This amounts to
about 15 shots of the standard 1‐pound air gun, or four strokes with a 1‐
pound, hand‐operated gun. If vehicle has been operated in water, wheel
hubs submerged, apply hub greasing service immediately afterward (or
soon as situation permits). Do not overlubricate wheel hub bearings, as
excess grease may work into brake linings, reducing brake efficiency. When
using air‐operated grease gun, it is easy to overlubricate wheel hub
bearings.
(7) Steering Head Bearings. Every 50,000 miles, repack upper and
lower bearings, or whenever there is occasion to remove rigid fork for
repair or replacement (par. 98).
(8) Tank, Engine Oil. Oil tank is located on right side of motorcycle.
Empty tank holds 1 U. S. gallon. Check daily and add engine oil as
necessary to refill tank within 1 inch of top. Oil level gage rod (dip stick) is
located directly below tank cap. When oil level is down to “REFILL” mark
on gage rod, 2 U. S. quarts may be added. Drain oil tank every 1,000 miles
and refill with fresh engine oil. Drain plug located on underside of tank in
forward position. In extremely dusty service, and in winter weather, change
oil oftener.
(a) Winter Caution. Water is a by‐product of combustion in any internal
combustion engine. In a condensed state, the water vapor formed would
equal approximately the quantity of gasoline burned. Some of this water
vapor escapes past the rings into the crankcase. When starting and warming
up in cold weather, considerable vapor getting into crankcase condenses to
water before crankcase is hot enough to exhaust the vapor, without inside
condensation, through outside breather. If engine is driven enough to get
crankcase thoroughly warmed up frequently, most of this water is again
vaporized and blown out through outside breather. However, a moderately
driven engine, making only short runs now and then, and seldom
thoroughly warmed up, is likely to accumulate an increasing amount of
water in oil tank. This water will, in freezing weather, become slush or ice
and, if allowed to accumulate too long, may block oil lines with resulting
damage to engine. Also, water mixed with oil for some time, forms a heavy
sludge of considerable acid content that is very harmful to bearings and
other internal engine parts. To sum it up briefly, an engine that is used only

for short runs during freezing weather requires frequent oil changes along
with thorough flushing of tank to remove any accumulated sludge.
(9) Transmission Filler Opening. Check oil level in transmission case
every 250 miles and add engine oil as necessary to bring level up to filler
opening. If motorcycle is run unusually long distances, inspect more
frequently. Motorcycle must be on rear stand in straight upright position
when checking oil level or filling transmission case. Use same grade of oil
used in engine, summer, and winter. If gear shifting difficulty is caused by
oil congealing in extremely cold weather, thin oil with small amount of
kerosene or dry‐cleaning solvent. Every 1,000 miles, drain and refill
transmission to level of transmission filler plug opening with specified
grade of engine oil. Transmission holds ¾ pint of oil. To drain transmission
case remove filler plug and lay motorcycle on right side. CAUTION: Do
not leave motorcycle on side longer than two minutes.
(10) Drive Chains.
(a) Front and rear drive chains are automatically supplied with
lubrication by engine oil pumps. Chain oilers are adjustable and may need
occasional readjustment to meet lubrication requirements of varied
operating conditions. Every 1,000 miles (or more often if operating
conditions are extremely severe) inspect front primary drive chain for
adequate lubrication (fig. 36).
(b) At every 1,000‐mile period rear drive chain should have additional
lubrication as follows: Remove chain, wash thoroughly in dry‐cleaning
solvent and hang it up to dry. Then soak chain in SAE 10 engine oil for a
short period of time to allow oil to penetrate into all chain bearings. Drain
chain and wipe off excess oil. Install rear chain (par. 63). (This attention is
not required by front chain.) Readjustment of chain oilers must be made
only by organization mechanic (par. 61). CAUTION: Inspect frequently and
make sure that rear chain oiler supply pipe is clear, not bent or damaged.
d. Before Applying Lubricant. Always wipe dirt from the lubrication
fittings or plugs so that dirt will not enter with the lubricant. Lubricate all
chassis points after washing vehicle or after vehicle has been operated in
streams or extremely muddy or slushy roads. CAUTION: It is extremely
important that high‐pressure cleaning streams or steam should not be
directed against ends of wheel hubs, brake side cover bearings, air cleaner,

handle bar grips, or electrical system. To do so will seriously affect correct
lubrication and functioning of these parts.
e. Oilcan Points. All brake, transmission, and clutch control points not
fitted with grease connections should be lubricated with engine oil. Front
brake control cable, spark, and throttle control wires must be oiled at the
ends of their respective housings, especially after washing vehicle, or after
operating it in wet weather. Keep battery terminal felt washers saturated
with engine oil to prevent corrosion of connections.
f. Warning Light. Action of the engine oil feed pump is indicated by red
signal light in instrument panel. Rider must be thoroughly familiar with
operating characteristics of this signal light, to judge condition of engine oil
circulating system (par. 7 f).

Section VI

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT STOWAGE ON THE VEHICLE

Paragraph
Vehicle tools 21
Vehicle equipment 22
Vehicle spare parts 23

RA PD 310208
Figure 11—Vehicle Tools

21. VEHICLE TOOLS (fig. 11).
a. Kits. Included in the tool kit assembly are the following:

Legend
Letter
for Number Mfr’s Federal Stock Where
Fig. 11 Tool Carried Number Number Carried
A 11819– In saddle
Tool roll
1 44 —— bag

B 11551– 41–I–773– In tool
Irons, tire
2 X 75 roll
*C 11817– 41–H– In tool
Handle, chain tool
1 40 1510–400 roll
D 11804– In tool
Wrench, 5⁄8–in. by ¾–in.
1 44C —— roll
E 11804– In tool
Wrench, ½–in. by 9⁄16–in.
1 44B —— roll
F 11804– In tool
Wrench, 7⁄16–in. by ½–in.
1 44A —— roll
G 11804– In tool
Wrench, 5⁄16–in. by 3⁄8–in.
1 44 —— roll
H Wrench, ⅜–in. by 7⁄16–in. 11905– In tool
(valve tappet) 1 X —— roll
I 11813– In tool
Wrench, adjustable
1 44 —— roll
*J Wrench, ¾–in. by 1¾–in.
(rear axle nut and 11814– 41–W– In tool
trans.) 1 35 1989–850 roll
K 11562– In tool
Gage, tire
1 43 —— roll
*L 12039– In tool
Tool, chain repair
1 38 —— roll
*M Washers, 0.002–in. thick In tool
(chain oiler adj.) 4 674–32 —— roll
*N Wrench, 7⁄16–in. by 1⅜–in. 11806– In tool
(valve cover) 1 31 41–W–3617 roll
*O Wrench, 7⁄16–in. by 11⁄8–in.
(use with spark plug 11929– In tool
socket) 1 39 —— roll
*P 11812– In tool
Pliers, adjustable
1 44 —— roll
*Q 11811– In tool
Screwdriver
1 X —— roll
R Wrench, 9⁄16–in. socket 12047– In tool
(cyl. head bolt) 1 30A 41–W01525 roll

*S 11815– 41–W– In tool
Wrench, wheel mounting
1 35 3825–400 roll
*T Wrench, socket (spark 11805– In tool
plug; use with O) 1 40 41–W–3332 roll
On
Pump, tire 11553– frame,
1 41M 8–P–4900 left side
11661– In saddle
Grease gun (in case)
1 38A —— bag
*EXCEPTION: Earlier models furnished with smaller tool roll and kit
contain the items marked by asterisk.

22. VEHICLE EQUIPMENT (figs. 12 and 13).
a. Attached to Vehicle.

Item Number Carried Where Carried
Saddlebags 2 On luggage carrier
Mirror, rear view 1 On left handle bar
Box, submachine gun ammunition 1 Front fender, left side
Bracket, submachine gun carrier 1 Front fender, right side
Guard, front safety 1 Attached to frame
Guard, rear safety 1 Attached to frame
Windshield, cpt 1 On handle bar
Leg shields, cpt (right and left) 2 Attached to frame

RA PD 310216
Figure 12—Vehicle Equipment, Left Side

RA PD 310217
Figure 13—Vehicle Equipment, Right Side

RA PD 310209
Figure 14—Vehicle Spare Parts

23. VEHICLE SPARE PARTS (fig. 14).
3
a. Spare Parts.

Item Number Carried Where Carried
A Roll, parts kit 1 In saddlebag
H Plug, spark (and gasket) 1 In kit roll
F Link, rear chain repair 1 In kit roll
G Link, front chain repair 1 In kit roll
K Lamp‐unit, tail blackout 1 In kit roll
J Lamp‐unit, stop blackout 1 In kit roll
L Lamp‐unit, tail and stop 1 In kit roll
B Lamp bulk kit, head lamps, 5 bulbs 1 In kit roll
C Kit, tire repair 1 In kit roll
I Tape, friction 1 In kit roll
D Caps, tire valve (5 in box) 1 In kit roll
E Cores, tire valve (5 in box) 1 In kit roll

3 EXCEPTION: No spare parts kit supplied with earlier models. Rear chain
repair link only spare part furnished.

PART TWO—VEHICLE MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
Section VII

MAINTENANCE ALLOCATION

Paragraph
Scope 24
Allocation of maintenance 25

24. SCOPE.
a. The scope of maintenance and repair by the crew and other units of the
using arms is determined by the availability of suitable tools, availability of
necessary parts, capabilities of the mechanics, time available, and the
tactical situation. All of these are variable and no exact system of procedure
can be prescribed.

25. ALLOCATION OF MAINTENANCE.
a. Indicated below are the maintenance duties for which tools and parts
have been provided for the using arm and maintenance personnel.
Replacements and repairs which are the responsibility of ordnance
maintenance personnel may be performed by using arm personnel when
circumstances permit, within the discretion of the commander concerned.
Echelons and words as used in this list of maintenance allocations are
defined as follows:

First and Second Operating organization driver, operator or crew,
Echelon: companies and detachments, battalions, squadrons,
Table III regiments, and separate companies and detachments
AR 850–15 (first and second echelons, respectively).
Third Echelon: Technical light and medium maintenance units,
Table III including post and port shops.
AR 850–15

Fourth Echelon: Technical heavy maintenance and field depot units
Table III including designated post and service command
AR 850–15 shops.
Fifth Echelon: Technical base units.
Table III
AR 850–15
Service: Checking and replenishing fuel, oil, grease, water
(Including preventive and antifreeze, air, and battery liquid; checking and
maintenance) par. 24 a tightening nuts and bolts; cleaning.
(2) and (3) in part AR
850–15
Service: Checking and replenishing fuel, oil, grease, water
(Including preventive and antifreeze, air, and battery liquid; checking and
maintenance) par. 24 a tightening nuts and bolts; cleaning.
(2) and (3) in part AR
850–15
Replace: To remove an unserviceable part, assembly, or
Par. 24 a (5) subassembly from a vehicle and replace it with a
AR 850–15 serviceable one.
Repair: To restore to a serviceable condition, such parts,
Par. 24 a (6) in part assemblies or subassemblies as can be
AR 850–15 accomplished without completely disassembling the
assembly or subassembly, and where heavy riveting,
or precision machining, fitting, balancing, or alining
is not required.
Rebuild: Consists of stripping and completely reconditioning
Par. 24 a (6) and replacing in serviceable condition any vehicle
AR 850–15 or unserviceable part, subassembly, or assembly of
the vehicle, including welding, riveting, machining,
fitting, alining, balancing, assembling, and testing.
Reclamation: Salvage of serviceable or economically repairable
AR 850–15 Par. 4 (c) units and parts removed from vehicles, and their
in part CIR. 75, dated return to stock. This includes the process which
16 March ’43 recovers and/or reclaims unusable articles or
component parts thereof and places them in a
serviceable condition.

NOTES: (1) Operations allocated will normally be performed in the
echelon indicated by X.

(2) Operations allocated to the third echelon as indicated by E
may be performed by these units in emergencies only.

(3) Operations allocated to the fourth echelon by E are normally
fifth echelon operations. They will not be performed by the
fourth echelon, unless the unit is expressly authorized to do so
by the chief of the service concerned.

ECHELONS
CLUTCH 2nd 3rd 4th 5th
Bearings, clutch release—replace X
Clutch—replace and/or repair (reline) X
Hub, clutch—replace X
Hub, clutch—repair X
Sprocket assembly, clutch—replace X
Sprocket assembly, clutch—repair X

CONTROLS AND LINKAGE
Controls and linkage—service and/or replace X
Controls and linkage—repair X

ELECTRICAL GROUP
Battery—service (recharge) and/or replace X
Battery—repair X
Battery—rebuild E X
Cables, battery—replace and/or repair X
Coil, ignition—replace X
Head, speedometer—replace X
Head, speedometer—repair X
Head, speedometer—rebuild X
Horn assembly—replace X
Horn assembly—repair X

Light assemblies—service and/or replace X
Light assemblies—repair X
Panel, instrument—replace X
Panel, instrument—repair X
Switch assemblies—replace X
Switch assemblies—repair X
Wiring—replace X

ENGINE
(V–45″–Twin Engine)
Bearings, main—replace E X
Bearings, connecting rod—replace E X
Breaker assembly, circuit—replace X
Breaker assembly, circuit—repair X
Breaker assembly, circuit—rebuild X
Carburetor—replace X
Carburetor—repair X
Carburetor—rebuild X
Cleaner, air—service and/or replace X
Cleaner, air—repair X
Cleaner, air—rebuild X
Cylinder assembly—replace X
Cylinder assembly—repair X
Cylinder assembly—rebuild (recondition) E X
Condenser—replace X
Engine assembly—replace *4 X
Engine assembly—repair X
Engine assembly—rebuild E X
Gasket, cylinder head—replace X
Gears, timing—replace E X
Generator assembly—replace X
Generator assembly—repair X
Generator assembly—rebuild X
Head, cylinder—replace and/or repair X

Lines and connections—replace X
Lines and connections—repair X
Pistons, rings and pins assembly—replace E E X
Plug, spark—replace X
Points, circuit breaker—service and/or replace X
Pump assembly, feed—replace X
Pump assembly, feed—repair X
Pump assembly, feed—rebuild X
Pump assembly, oil—replace X
Pump assembly, oil—repair X
Pump assembly, oil—rebuild X
Pump assembly, oil scavenger—replace and/or repair X
Pump assembly, oil scavenger—rebuild X
Rod, connecting—replace and/or rebuild (recondition) X X
Sprocket, engine—replace X
Strained gasoline—replace and/or repair X
Valves—service X

EXHAUST GROUP
Muffler and exhaust pipe—replace X
Muffler and exhaust pipe—repair X

MISCELLANEOUS
Bars, safety—replace X
Bars, safety—repair X
Boxes, ammunition, battery and tool—replace X
Boxes, ammunition, battery and tool—repair X
Carriers, luggage and scabbard—replace X
Carriers, luggage and scabbard—repair X
Frame—replace and/or rebuild E X
Guards, mud—replace X
Guards, mud—repair X
Plate, skid—replace X
Plate, skid—repair X

Saddle—replace X
Saddle—repair X
Saddle—rebuild X
Springs, saddle post—replace X
Tank, fuel—replace X
Tank, fuel—repair X
Tank, oil—replace X
Tank, oil—repair X

SUSPENSION (FRONT)
Bars, handle—replace X
Bars, handle—repair X
Damper, steering—replace X
Drum, brake—replace X
Fork, front assembly—replace X
Fork, front assembly—repair X
Fork, front assembly—rebuild X
Fork, spring—replace X
Fork, spring—repair X
Fork, spring—rebuild X
Plate, rocker—replace X
Plate, rocker—repair X
Shoe assembly, brake—service and/or replace X
Shoe assembly, brake—repair (reline) X
Springs, cushion and rebound—replace X

SUSPENSION (REAR)
Chains, all—replace and/or repair X
Drum, brake, rear—replace X
Guards, chains—replace X
Guards, chains—repair X
Shoe assemblies, brake—service and/or replace X
Shoe assemblies, brake—repair (reline) X
Sprocket, rear—replace X

Wheels—replace X
Wheels—repair X
Wheels—rebuild E X

TIRES
Casings and tubes—replace X
Casings—repair E X
Tubes, inner—repair X

TRANSMISSION
Spring, kick starter—replace X
Sprocket, transmission countershaft—replace X
Starter, kick—replace X
Starter, kick—repair X
Transmission—replace *4 X
Transmission—repair X
Transmission—rebuild E X

VEHICLE ASSEMBLY
Motorcycle—service X
Motorcycle—rebuild (with serviceable unit assemblies) X E
4 The second echelon is authorized to remove and reinstall items marked by
an asterisk. However, when it is necessary to replace an item marked by an
asterisk with a new or rebuilt part, subassembly or unit assembly, the assembly
marked by an asterisk may be removed from the vehicle by the second echelon
only after authority has been obtained from a higher echelon of maintenance.

Section VIII

SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

Paragraph
Second echelon preventive maintenance services 26

26. SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICES.
a. Regular scheduled maintenance inspections and services are a
preventive maintenance function of the using arms, and are the
responsibility of commanders of operating organizations.
(1) Frequency. The frequencies of the preventive maintenance services
outlined herein are considered a minimum requirement for normal operation
of vehicles. Under unusual operating conditions such as extreme
temperatures, and dusty or sandy terrain, it may be necessary to perform
certain maintenance services more frequently.
(2) First Echelon Participation. The drivers should accompany their
vehicles and assist the mechanics while periodic second echelon preventive
maintenance services are performed. Ordinarily the driver should present
the vehicle for a scheduled preventive maintenance service in a reasonably
clean condition; that is, it should be dry, and not caked with mud or grease
to such an extent that inspection and servicing will be seriously hampered.
However, the vehicle should not be washed or wiped thoroughly clean,
since certain types of defects, such as cracks, leaks, and loose or shifted
parts or assemblies are more evident if the surfaces are slightly soiled or
dusty.
(3) If instructions other than those contained in the general procedures in
paragraph (4) or the specific procedures in paragraph (5) which follow, are
required for the correct performance of a preventive maintenance service, or
for correction of a deficiency, other sections of the vehicle operator’s
manual pertaining to the item involved, or a designated individual in
authority, should be consulted.
(4) General Procedures. These general procedures are basic instructions
which are to be followed when performing the services on the items listed

in the specific procedures. The second echelon personnel must be
thoroughly trained in these procedures so that they will apply them
automatically.
(a) When new or overhauled subassemblies are installed to correct
deficiencies, care should be taken to see that they are clean, correctly
installed, properly lubricated, and adjusted.
(b) When installing new lubricant retainer seals, a coating of the lubricant
should be wiped over the sealing surface of the lip of the seal.
(c) The general inspection of each item applies also to any supporting
member or connection, and usually includes a check to see whether the item
is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, or excessively worn. The
mechanics must be thoroughly trained in the following explanations of
these terms:
1. The inspection for “good condition” is usually an external visual
inspection to determine whether or not the unit is damaged beyond safe or
serviceable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further by the
following: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned, not broken or cracked,
not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or cut.
2. The inspection of a unit to see that it is “correctly assembled” is
usually an external visual inspection to see whether or not it is in its normal
assembled position in the vehicle.
3. The inspection of a unit to determine if it is “secure” is usually an
external visual examination, a hand‐feel, or a pry‐bar check for looseness;
such an inspection should include any brackets, lock washers, lock nuts,
locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly.
4. “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn, close to or
beyond serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not replaced
before the next scheduled inspection.
(d) Special Services. These are indicated by repeating the item numbers
in the columns which show the interval at which the services are to be
performed, and show that the parts, or assemblies, are to receive certain
mandatory services. For example, an item number in one or both columns
opposite a Tighten procedure, means that the actual tightening of the object
must be performed. The special services include:

1. Adjust. Make all necessary adjustments in accordance with the
pertinent section of the vehicle operator’s manual, special bulletins, or other
current directives.
2. Clean. Clean units of the vehicle with dry‐cleaning solvent to remove
excess lubricant, dirt, and other foreign material. After the parts are cleaned,
rinse them in clean dry‐cleaning solvent, and dry them thoroughly. Take
care to keep the parts clean until reassembled, and be certain to keep dry‐
cleaning solvent away from rubber or other material which it will damage.
Clean the protective grease coating from new parts, since this material is
not a good lubricant.
3. Special lubrication. This applies both to lubrication operations that do
not appear on the vehicle Lubrication Guide, and to items that do appear on
such guides, but should be performed in connection with the maintenance
operations, if parts have to be disassembled for inspection or service.
4. Serve. This usually consists of performing special operations, such as
replenishing battery water, and draining and refilling units with oil.
5. Tighten. All tightening operations should be performed with sufficient
wrench‐torque (force on the wrench handle) to tighten the nut according to
good mechanical practice. Use torque‐indicating wrench where specified.
Do not overtighten, as this may strip threads, or cause distortion. Tightening
will always be understood to include the correct installation of lock
washers, lock nuts, and cotter pins provided to secure the tightening.
(e) When conditions make it difficult to perform the complete preventive
maintenance procedures at one time, these can sometimes be handled in
sections, planning to complete all operations within the task if possible. All
available time at halts and in bivouac areas must be utilized, if necessary, to
assure that maintenance operations are completed. When limited by the
tactical situation, items with special services in the columns should be given
first consideration.
(f) The numbers of the preventive maintenance procedures that follow are
identical with those outlined on W.D. AGO Form No. 463, which is the
Preventive Maintenance Service Work Sheet for Motorcycles. Certain items
on the work sheet that do not apply to this vehicle are not included in the
procedures in this manual. In general, the numerical sequence of items on

the work sheet is followed in the manual procedures, but in some instances
there is deviation for conservation of the mechanic’s time and effort.
(5) Specific Procedures. The procedures for performing each item in the
1,000‐mile maintenance procedures are described in the following chart.
Each page of the chart has a column at its left edge corresponding to the
1,000‐mile maintenance.
ROAD TEST

1000 Mile NOTE: If tactical situation does not permit a full road test,
Maintenance perform items 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, and 14, which require
slight or no movement of the vehicle. When a road test is
possible, it should be for preferably 5, and not over 10 miles.
1 Before‐operation Inspection. Perform Before‐operation
Service listed on W.D. Form No. 418. “Driver’s Trip Ticket and
Preventive Maintenance Service Record” (described in par. 15),
to determine if vehicle is in a satisfactory condition to make the
road test safely.
2 Ease of Starting. Start engine and observe action of starter.
Note if engine responds readily.
3 Oil Circulation. Oil circulation is normally indicated by oil
signal light (red light) in instrument panel being out. When red
light is on, oil is not circulating. Observe for excess smoke in
exhaust. CAUTION: If red light fails to go out after engine has
been started, stop engine at once. Refer to paragraph 30 for
possible causes.
4 Instruments. Observe instruments for proper or normal
indication and functioning of system to which they apply.
Speedometer and Odometer. Speedometer must indicate
vehicle speed without excessive noise or fluctuation; odometer
must record trip and total mileage. Oil Pressure Signal Light.
Note whether oil signal light (red light) indicates correctly.
After ignition switch is turned on, and before starting engine,
the red light should go on, indicating no oil circulation. When
engine is started, light should go out.
Generator Signal Light. With switch on, and before starting
engine, the green signal light should go on, indicating discharge

of battery. After starting engine, increase engine speed to a
medium fast idle; green signal light should then go out,
indicating generator is charging battery. CAUTION: Continue
observation of signal lights during road test, and if lights
should fail to operate as indicated above, stop engine,
investigate cause, and correct or report trouble to proper
authority.
5 Brake Operation. Test foot brake for safe stop within
reasonable distance. Note squeaks or chatter that might indicate
wet, oily, dirty, or loose lining, damaged drum, or improper
adjustment. Apply hand‐operated front brake only in
conjunction with rear brake and observe whether it operates
effectively in assisting to make a quicker stop.
6 Clutch Operation. Before moving vehicle, make sure that
clutch pedal has satisfactory free travel before it begins to
disengage clutch; that it releases clutch completely before
reaching end of travel; and that there are no unusual noises in
clutch‐release mechanism. When starting vehicle, observe
whether clutch grabs, chatters, or slips when fully engaged.
7 Gearshift. Shift through entire gear range of transmission and
observe whether mechanism operates freely without clashing or
jumping out of gear. Note any unusual vibration that might
indicate loose engine or transmission mountings.
8 Unusual Noises. During entire road test, listen for unusual
noises that might indicate worn, loose, damaged, or
insufficiently lubricated parts in the entire motorcycle,
particularly in engine and accessories, or in the power train.
CAUTION: Loose primary (front) drive chain, with slack in
excess of ½ inch total up‐and‐down motion, can cause
excessive noise which sounds like engine knock. Remove
inspection cover for examination of chain.
9 Steering. Observe steering mechanism for indication of
looseness or excessive binding through full turning range. With
hands resting lightly on handle bars and vehicle in vertical
position, observe whether there is any tendency to pull to one
side when operating at a reasonable speed. Note any indication
of steering instability at higher speeds.

10 Balance. If vehicle does not balance properly in operation,
inspect for misalinement of rear wheel.
11 Speedometer and Odometer. Inspect speedometer for proper
operation, excessive fluctuation, or unusual noise. Observe
odometer for correct recording of trip and total mileage.
12 Throttle and Spark Controls. Set throttle stop screw and low
speed needle adjustment so that engine will operate smoothly
and will not stall at idling speed. With vehicle running at a
speed of 30 miles per hour, or faster, in high gear, turn throttle
control grip to “OPEN” and “CLOSED” positions and note
whether engine responds instantly to throttle changes. Turn
spark control grip and note whether it fully advances and
retards ignition timer.
13 Power and Operation. Observe engine for normal pulling
power, and good operating characteristics in each speed, from
first to high gear. Also observe whether engine misses, stalls,
knocks excessively, or makes any other unusual noise.
14 Carburetor Adjustment. No carburetor adjustment, other than
idle adjustment as performed in item 12, is required on this
vehicle.
15 Brake Drum and Hub Temperature. Immediately after
completing road test, feel front and rear brake drums and wheel
hubs for overheating.
16 Power Train Temperatures. Feel transmission for
overheating.

MAINTENANCE OPERATION
17 Compression Test. With throttle wide‐open, test compression
with starter. If engine lacks compression, inspect for leaks.
18 Transmission. Inspect transmission for good condition, secure
mounting, and leaks. Inspect oil level. Drain and refill
transmission to level of transmission filler plug opening with
specified grade of engine oil. CAUTION: Always drain
transmission immediately after it has been warmed and
agitated by operation of engine. Refill as soon as draining is

completed to avoid hazard of operating without lubricant.
Tighten all mounting and assembly bolts securely.
20 Engine Oil. Inspect oil tank for oil level: drain and refill tank.
CAUTION: Fill to within 1 inch of filler opening and filler cap
with specified weight of oil. Always drain immediately after
engine operation and refill as soon as draining is completed, to
avoid hazard of operating without lubricant.
21 Battery and Carrier. Clean top of battery. See that battery and
carrier are in good condition, and that carrier is securely
mounted. Remove cell caps: make sure that vents are open. Test
specific gravity with hydrometer and record readings on work
sheet, W.D. AGO Form No. 463. Readings below 1.225
indicate need for recharge, or battery failure. Variation between
cells of more then 0.025 must be reported. Read and record
voltage of battery (6‐volt reading is normal). Bring electrolyte
to 5⁄16 inch above tops of plates, using clean, drinkable water. If
excessive looseness of battery in case is noted, check for
presence of rubber pad in bottom of case, and make sure rubber
pad is installed on top of battery, when battery service is
completed.
22 Battery Wires and Terminals. Inspect battery for good
condition and secure connections. Look for worn spots in wire
insulation. Oil the felt washers on battery terminals.
23 Electrical Wiring. Inspect all electric wiring to see that it is in
good condition, securely attached, and connected. Look for
worn spots in insulation.
24 Generator Drive and Mounting, and Relay. Inspect generator
for secure mounting. After removing left footboard assembly,
remove generator and cover. Examine commutator for
cleanliness, good condition, or excessive wear. If commutator
is dirty, it must be cleaned with No. 00 sandpaper. Blow out
with compressed air. If commutator is in bad condition or
excessively worn, replace generator. Remove relay cover, being
careful to avoid damage to mechanism, and inspect for
cleanliness. Blow out with air if wet or dirty. CAUTION: Do
not attempt to adjust relay, or to clean it in any other manner.

25 Timer (Circuit Breaker). Clean and remove timer cover. See
that wiring leads are securely connected and that inside of the
timer is clean. Inspect breaker points to see that they are clean,
well‐lined, engaging squarely, and are not excessively pitted,
burned, or worn. See that condenser mounting screw is tight.
Breaker lever should be free on its pivot and well insulated
from the pivot pin. Determine if breaker arm spring exerts
normal force against arm. Examine camshaft by hand‐feel to
see whether it is excessively worn in its bushings; if camshaft
bushings are worn excessively, install new timer. If points are
slightly burned or pitted, dress them with a fine file. If breaker
points are unserviceable, install a new set, taking care to aline
them and to adjust gap to 0.022 inch. Apply one drop of oil to
breaker arm pivot pin. Use clean cloth to wipe cam and then
coat with a very light film of light grease. CAUTION: Be
careful to avoid getting oil or grease on breaker points.
26 Spark Plugs. Remove spark plugs, clean with sandblast
cleaner, and inspect for cracked insulators: inspect electrodes
for good condition and adjust gap to 0.025 to 0.030 inch;
replace faulty plugs. Be sure to install new gasket with new
plug. Inspect radio suppressors on plug cables for good
condition and secure attachment.
27 Ignition and Light Switch. Make sure that the switch is in
good condition and operating properly in all positions.
28 Lights, Service and Blackout. See that all lights are clean, in
good condition, properly aimed, and securely mounted. Tactical
situation permitting, turn switch to each of its positions and
observe whether service and blackout lights operate properly,
and whether they go out when switched off. Operate dimmer
switch on left handle bar to see whether it depresses beam of
service headlight. Apply foot brake for check of both blackout
and service stop light operation. Inspect lenses for breakage,
and headlight reflector for discoloration. Clean all lenses.
29 Horn. Tactical situation permitting, sound horn to test for
normal signal. Examine horn for good condition, secure
mounting, and tight wiring connections.

30 Cylinder Heads. If cylinder head gaskets show signs of
leakage, tighten head bolts: if leakage persists, new gaskets
should be installed. A head bolt wrench (Fed‐Stock No. 41–W–
1525) is available with which head bolts can be tightened
without removing tanks for wrench clearance. If tanks are
removed to permit taking off heads and installing new gaskets,
bolts should then be tightened evenly with a torque wrench to a
tension of 60 foot‐pounds minimum, or 65 foot‐pounds
maximum, when engine is cold.
31 Cylinder Hold‐down Nuts. If these nuts are loose, or there is
excessive oil leakage around cylinder bases, tighten nuts evenly
when engine is cold. If excessive leakage persists, new gaskets
should be installed. CAUTION: If cylinder base nuts are loose,
perform item 36 before starting engine.
32 Engine Mountings. Inspect top engine mounting bracket and
bolt for good condition and security. CAUTION: Tight seating
of the engine bracket mounting bolt is a necessity for effective
radio bonding. Inspect four lower engine mounting bolts for
signs of looseness. Tighten as required.
33 Engine Crankcase. Examine engine crankcase for good
condition and for leaks. Make sure timing gear cover screws,
and oil feed and scavenger pump nuts, are tight.
34 Intake Manifold. Examine manifold for good condition and
secure mounting. Make sure manifold nuts are tight.
35 Muffler and Exhaust Pipes. Inspect muffler and exhaust pipes
for good condition, secure mounting, and for leaks. Be sure tail
pipe opening is not restricted.
36 Valve Mechanism. When engine is cold, adjust valve tappet
clearance to 0.004–inch minimum, 0.005–inch maximum on
intake valve; 0.006–inch minimum, 0.007–inch maximum on
exhaust valve. See that valve springs are in good condition and
properly secured; that valve tappet adjusting screws and lock
nuts are in good condition; and that valve covers are in good
condition, secure, and not leaking oil.
37 Starter. Examine pedal, crank, and return spring for good
condition, correct assembly, and secure mounting. Starter

should operate without binding, and return spring should bring
starter crank to its disengaged position when foot pressure is
removed. CAUTION: Make sure that starter crank pinch bolt
is installed with head of bolt toward rear of vehicle when crank
is in upright position.
38 Engine Cooling Fins. Inspect engine cooling fins for good
condition and cleanliness. Remove all dirt or foreign matter. Do
not apply paint to cooling fins.
39 Filler Caps and Vents. Wipe dirt and dust from filler caps of
fuel and oil tanks. Inspect caps and gaskets to see that they are
in good condition. Note whether vent in fuel filler cap is open.
Reinstall caps, observing that each locks properly on filler
neck. Do not interchange fuel and oil tank filler caps.
40 Fuel Tank Valves and Lines. See that valves and lines are in
good condition, secure, and not leaking. Test fuel shut‐off valve
for ample friction to hold valve in reserve position. See that
valve lifts freely enough to operate satisfactorily.
41 Oil System Leaks. Examine oil tank, oil lines, vent line, and
connections for good condition, secure attachment, and for
leaks.
42 Carburetor and Fuel Filter (Gasoline Strainer). Examine
carburetor and fuel filter for good condition, secure
connections, and for leaks. Shut off fuel tank valve and remove
filter (strainer) cap and screen. Wash cap and screen in dry‐
cleaning solvent, and open shut‐off valve slightly to flush filter
body. Reassemble screen, gaskets, and cap, being careful not to
damage gaskets. Use new gaskets if necessary. Drain water and
foreign matter from carburetor bowl by removing bowl drain
plug. Open shut‐off valve slightly to flush carburetor bowl
while plug is out. Replace plug, being careful to avoid crossing
threads. Open fuel tank shut‐off valve and check for leaks.
43 Air Cleaner. Remove oil cup; inspect condition of oil, and
amount of sediment. If service is required, remove filter
elements, clean and fill cup to NORMAL level. Wash elements
in dry‐cleaning solvent, dry thoroughly with compressed air,
immerse each element in oil in cup, and reassemble elements
and oil cup to air cleaner body immediately. Make sure gaskets

are in good condition. NOTE: Early type round cleaner does
not have removable filter element; therefore, the complete
cleaner body must be removed to wash element.
44 Gearshift Lever and Linkage. See that gearshift lever and
linkage are in good condition, secure, and not excessively
worn. Lubricate all joints with a few drops of engine oil. Adjust
shifter lever so that when moved to any gear position in shifter
guide on tank, the transmission is shifted to full engagement in
corresponding gear.
45 Primary Drive. Remove inspection hole cover from front
chain guard. With clutch engaged and transmission in neutral,
rotate primary chain to position of least slack. Check chain for
½–inch deflection. Deflection measurement should be total up‐
and‐down free movement. Inspect chain for adequate
lubrication. Loosen front and rear chain oiler adjusting screws
two turns each. Do not remove screws. Idle engine 1 minute,
then tighten screws firmly, but do not force. This operation
serves to flush control valves and rear chain oiler pipe.
46 Clutch Pedal and Linkage. Inspect clutch pedal clevis
connections and cable to see that they are in good condition and
not excessively worn. Check free travel of clutch pedal to make
sure it is within specified limits. With foot pedal in fully
disengaged position (heel against footboard) clutch release
lever must clear sprocket cover stud and nut by about 1⁄16 inch:
with foot pedal in fully engaged position, clutch release lever
must have between 1⁄8– and ¼–inch of free movement on end of
foot pedal cable. Lubricate all joints with a few drops of engine
oil, including cable at each end of cable housing.
47 Rear Chain and Guard. Inspect rear chain guard for good
condition and secure mounting. Remove chain, wash
thoroughly in dry‐cleaning solvent, and hang it up to dry. See
that chain is in good condition, not excessively worn, and has
no broken rollers on side plates. Soak chain in SAE 10 engine
oil for a short period of time to allow oil to penetrate into all
rollers; drain chain, and wipe off excess oil. Inspect
countershaft sprocket, and rear wheel sprocket to see that they
are in good condition, not excessively worn, and that rear

sprocket rivets are tight. Do not reinstall chain until item 71 has
been performed. When reinstalling chain, make sure that
connecting link is in good condition and securely locked. See
that open end of connecting link spring clip is trailing in
direction of chain travel. Adjust chain (paragraph 60).
48 Final Drive Sprockets. Inspection of final drive sprockets is
made when performing item 47.
50 Paint and Markings. Examine vehicle for good condition and
see that paint is not rubbed to a polish, and has no bare spots
that might rust or reflect light. See that vehicle markings are
legible.
51 Frame. Examine frame for good condition; observe whether it
seems to be sprung out of alinement.
52 Steering Head and Fork Stem. Raise front end of vehicle by
placing blocks under skid plate. Complete all following items
to and including item 71, before lowering vehicle to ground.
Examine steering head and fork stems for good condition. Note
whether there is up‐and‐down play caused by loose bearings.
Move handle bars through complete range and observe if there
is any binding which might indicate improperly adjusted or
defective bearings.
53 Handle Bars. Examine handle bars for good condition and
secure mounting.
54 Throttle Control. See that grip is in good condition, that
throttle opens and closes completely as grip is turned to its
extreme positions, and that control wire and housing are in
good condition and secure. Lubricate lightly through hole in
rear of grip to avoid rusting and “freezing.” If grip does not
rotate freely, disassemble grip, clean, and lubricate spiral
control parts.
55 Spark Control. See that grip is in good condition, that spark is
fully advanced and retarded as the grip is turned to its extreme
positions; that the control wire and housing are in good
condition and secure. Lubricate lightly through hole in rear of
grip to avoid rusting and “freezing.” If grip does not rotate

freely, disassemble grip, clean, and lubricate spiral control
parts.
57 Rear View Mirror. Clean rear view mirror and examine for
good condition and secure mounting.
58 Front Fender (Mudguard). Examine front fender for good
condition and secure mounting; see that fender does not scrape
tire.
59 Weapon Carrier. Inspect weapon carrier for good condition
and secure mounting.
60 Ammunition Box. See that ammunition box and cover are in
good condition and securely attached.
61 Front Springs. See that front springs and their mountings are
in good condition, correctly assembled, and secure.
62 Front Forks. See that front forks are in good condition and
securely mounted.
63 Front Fork Rocker Plates (Rocker Arms). See that front fork
rocket plates are in good condition, secure, and not excessively
worn. Tighten rocker plate stud nuts securely.
64 Front Fork Damper. Inspect steering damper for good
condition and to see that it operates freely. Observe whether
friction disks are glazed, coated with grease, or excessively
worn.
65 Front Brake and Control Linkage. See that control linkage
operates freely, that all connections are tight, and that brake is
adjusted so that end of hand lever has ¼ free travel before
meeting resistance. Look for any indications of a cracked or
excessively worn brake drum: badly worn, loose, or grease‐
saturated linings. If there are any such indications, remove
wheel for closer inspection. Look for badly worn brake side
cover bushing, shackle bushings and studs, or brake operating
stud bearing. Apply a few drops of engine oil to control cable,
especially at control housing oiler at left handle bar, and to pin
joints.
66 Front Wheel Alinement and Spokes. Examine front wheel
spokes for presence, good condition, and tightness. If loose
spokes are found, tighten evenly, taking care not to distort rim

out‐of‐round, or to cause run‐out. Examine rim for good
condition, and spin wheel to see that it has no appreciable run‐
out.
67 Front Wheel Bearings. Inspect wheel to see whether bearings
are excessively loose. Wheel should have slight amount of side
play at rim. Spin wheel and listen for unusual noises which
might indicate dry or defective bearings or races. Observe for
excessive grease leak. If wheel is found to need only slight
cone readjustment to correct excessive bearing play, remove
wheel and make this adjustment (par. 126). If indications are
found that hub is otherwise in bad order, replace wheel.
Each Sixth 1,000–Mile Maintenance Service. Remove front
wheel, axle sleeve and bearing, and, together with wheel hub,
clean thoroughly in dry‐cleaning solvent. Inspect parts for good
condition: inspect brake drum. Inspect lining for good
condition and secure attachment, and see that it is neither
excessively worn nor soaked with grease. Repack bearings,
hub, and axle sleeve with specified lubricant. CAUTION: Make
sure that hands and grease are perfectly clean, and that grease
is forced between balls onto the cone. Reassemble and adjust
bearings according to instructions in paragraph 126, taking care
to see that wheel is properly alined. If unusual operating
conditions, such as fording streams, have indicated probable
contamination of lubricant, this service should be performed
more frequently.
68 Front Wheel Axle Nuts. Tighten axle nuts, making sure that
cotter pins are installed. Slot in stabilizer plate must be
anchored on extended end of left‐front rocker plate stud.
69 Tires, Front and Rear. Gage tires and inflate to 18 pounds
front, and 20 pounds rear (cold). Make sure that valve stems are
in good condition and correctly installed, and that valve caps
are present and secure. Examine tires for cuts, bruises, breaks,
and blisters: remove imbedded glass, nails, or other foreign
matter from tire treads; observe treads for excessive or irregular
tire wear. At any inspection when unusual or irregular tire wear
becomes evident, interchange front and rear tires.

70 Rear Wheel Alinement and Spokes. With vehicle on rear
stand, inspect in same manner as front wheel (item 66). If it is
necessary to aline wheel in frame, make sure sprockets and
chains are in correct alinement.
71 Rear Wheel Bearings and Seals. Inspect wheel to see whether
bearings are excessively loose (wheel should have a slight
amount of play at rim). Spin wheel and listen for unusual noise
which might indicate dry or defective bearings. Also observe
whether there is excessive grease leak. Test for excessive end
play. If wheel is found to have considerable side play at rim,
indicating excessively worn bearings, or there is evidence of
hub assembly being in bad order otherwise, replace wheel. If
wheel must be replaced, inspect brake drum and lining for good
condition, as indicated in item 75, before reinstalling wheel.
CAUTION: Make sure that wheel mounting socket screws are
tight.
72 Rear Wheel Axle Nut. See that rear wheel axle nut is in good
condition and securely tightened.
74 Rear Fender (Mudguard). Inspect rear fender for good
condition and secure attachment.
75 Rear Brake and Control Linkage. See that brake control
linkage operates freely, and that all connections are secure.
Look for indications of badly worn or grease‐saturated linings.
If brake operating lever stands considerably ahead of vertical,
excessive lining wear is indicated. If grease has worked out
between brake drum and brake cover, grease‐saturated linings
are indicated. In either case the wheel should be removed for
closer inspection. Inspect drum for cracks or excessive wear.
Make sure wheel mounting socket screws are tight. Examine
linkage for loose or worn pin or clevis, and for missing washers
or cotter pins. Apply a few drops of engine oil to all linkage
joints. Brake pedal should have 1–inch free travel before brake
begins to meet resistance. Adjust length of brake rod at brake
operating lever to provide 1–inch free pedal travel.
77 Footboard and Rest. Examine footboard and rest for good
condition and secure attachment.

78 Saddle Spring and Hinge. Examine saddle for good condition
and secure mounting, paying particular attention to torn leather,
ripped seams, sagging or broken spring in seat post, and
excessive wear in front hinge. CAUTION: Make sure that
spring wire clip properly locks the saddle rear hinge clevis pin.
79 Luggage Carrier. Examine luggage carrier for good condition
and secure mounting.
80 Saddle Bags. Examine saddle bags for good condition,
cleanliness, and secure fastening to luggage carrier. Note
particularly whether leather is torn, seams ripped, or straps and
buckles missing or damaged.
81 Tools, Tire Pump, and Equipment. Inspect tool kit, tools, tire
pump, and other equipment for good condition, cleanliness,
serviceability, and proper stowage. Make sure that tire pump is
securely clamped to motorcycle frame. Check all items with
stowage list (pars. 21, 22 and 23). Make sure that vehicle
manuals and Accident Report Form No. 26 are present on
vehicle and legible.
82 Safety Guards. Inspect safety guards for good condition and
secure mounting.
83 Leg Shields. Inspect leg shields for good condition and secure
mounting. NOTE: Motorcycles operating in warm weather
should not be equipped with leg shields, as they seriously
hamper engine cooling.
84 Skid Plate. Examine skid plate for good condition and secure
mounting. CAUTION: Skid plate must be present.
85 Vehicle Lubrication. Lubricate all points of vehicle in
accordance with instructions in this manual, Lubrication Guide,
current lubrication bulletins or directives, and the following
instructions:
Any unit that required disassembly for inspection purposes
must be lubricated correctly unless the vehicle is to be
deadlined for the repair of that unit. Use only clean lubricant.
Keep all lubricant containers covered except when used during
lubrication. Before applying lubricant, always wipe dirt from
the lubrication fitting or plug so that dirt will not enter with the

lubricant. If lubricant fittings or plugs are missing or damaged,
replace them. Clean the hole in which the fitting is to be
installed, and lubricate after the new fitting has been installed.
Lubricant must be applied properly. On unsealed joints or
bushings, apply lubricant until it appears at openings. However,
lubricate sparingly the front wheel hub, rear wheel hub, front
brake side cover bushing, front brake operating lever stud, and
rear brake operating lever stud, to prevent grease reaching
brake linings. Rider should be advised whenever wheel
bearings are serviced or adjusted, so that during the next road
operation he may determine whether bearings or brake drums
are running hot, due to overtight adjustment of bearings, or a
dragging brake.
Do not apply more than specified amount of lubricant to
generator or timer (circuit breaker). To do so may cause failure
of the unit.
Wipe off excess applied lubricant that may drip onto brake or
operating surfaces, soil clothes, or detract from vehicle’s
appearance.
Parts or assemblies that have already been lubricated while
disassembled for inspection, gear cases that have been drained
and refilled as mandatory items in the procedure, and those
parts that have been indicated for special lubrication, will be
omitted from the general lubrication of the vehicle.
86 Final Road Test. Make a final road test, reinspecting items 2 to
16, inclusive. Be sure to recheck transmission to see that
lubricant is at correct level and not leaking. Confine this road
test to the minimum distance necessary to make satisfactory
observation. Correct or report all deficiencies found during
final road test to designated authority.

Section IX

ORGANIZATION TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

Paragraph
Tools and equipment 27

27. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT.
a. Refer to SNL–N 19 for common hand tools available to second
echelon.
b. Refer to list given below for all special tools available to second
echelon.

Manufacturer’s Federal Stock
Special Tool Description
Number Number
Hydrometer, battery, special HRD 11831–X 18–H–1242
Tool, repair, drive chain, motorcycle
universal HRD 12039–X 41–T–3320
Tool, spoke tightening, special, ¾–inch, for 41–T–3368–
small diameter spokes IMC 7–T–3259 20
2941–W–
Wrench, cyl. base nut, twin
HRD 12650–29 872–10
HRD 12047–
Wrench, head bolt
30A 41–W–1525
41–W–1570–
Wrench, manifold, 45–in. twin
HRD 12003–X 10
Wrench, spark plug HRD 11929–40 41–W–3334
Wrench, spoke nipple, front wheel HRD 12032–X 41–W–3339
Wrench, spoke nipple, heavy duty rear
wheel HRD 12033–39 41–W–3340
Wrench, tappet and dbl–head open–end
7⁄ – and 1⅜–in HRD 11806–31 41–W–3617
16

Section X

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Paragraph
Introduction 28
Engine 29
Engine lubricating system 30
Fuel system 31
Ignition system 32
Generating system 33
Electrical system 34
Transmission and clutch 35
Wheels and chains 36
Brakes 37
Steering 38

28. INTRODUCTION.
a. Trouble shooting for the entire vehicle is given in this section. The
engine trouble shooting paragraph traces trouble to a system affecting
engine performance: for example, fuel or ignition. To trace trouble to one or
more defective components of a system, it is necessary to refer to the
pertinent paragraph of this section when the defective system or systems
have been located in the engine trouble shooting paragraph.
b. The material given in this section applies to the operation of the
vehicle under normal conditions. If extreme conditions of temperature
occur, it is assumed the operator of the vehicle has prepared his vehicle for
use for the conditions encountered.

29. ENGINE.
a. Instruction. This subparagraph traces troubles to a system affecting
engine performance. Step b below gives simple engine tests to determine
the mechanical condition of the engine. References in step b refer to step c

for engine mechanical troubles, or to pertinent paragraphs in this section for
system troubles, or when a test indicates a special unit is faulty, to the
pertinent paragraph in this manual.
(1) Engine Does Not Turn Over When Foot Starter Is Operated.
(a) Clutch slipping. Check adjustment (par. 48).
(b) Sheared engine sprocket key. Replace (par. 65).
(c) Starter clutch stuck by congealed oil. Free starter clutch. Use proper
grade of oil.
(d) Starter clutch worn. Refer to maintenance personnel.
(e) Engine locked (seized). Refer to organization mechanic.
(2) Engine Turns Over When Cranked but Does Not Start.
(a) Fuel supply valve closed. Open valve.
(b) Empty fuel tank. Fill tank.
(c) Fuel system faulty. Refer to paragraph 31.
(d) Ignition system faulty. Refer to paragraph 32.
(e) Battery weak or dead. Refer to paragraph 34.
(f) Insufficient compression. Refer to step b, below.
(3) Weak Compression. Refer to step b below for test.
(a) Improper valve tappet adjustment. Adjust (par. 43).
(b) Valves sticking. Use dry‐cleaning solvent to free valve stems in
guides.
(c) Faulty lubrication. Refer to paragraph 20.
(d) Loose cylinder head bolts and/or faulty gasket. Tighten head bolts or
replace gasket (par. 41).
(4) Overheating.
(a) Faulty fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.
(b) Dirt on cylinders. Clean fins on cylinder, especially the fins on
cylinder head.

(c) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph 30.
(d) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32.
(e) Idling engine without having vehicle in motion. Do not idle engine
longer than 1 minute.
(f) Valve tappet adjustment incorrect. Refer to step b (1) below for test, to
paragraph 43 for adjustment.
(g) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).
(h) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to organization mechanic.
(5) Lack of Power.
(a) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.
(b) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32.
(c) Overheating. Refer to step (4) above.
(d) Defective lubricating system. Refer to paragraph 30.
(e) Poor compression. Refer to step (3) above.
(f) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).
(g) Brakes dragging. Adjust (pars. 96 and 97).
(6) Popping and Spitting Through Carburetor.
(a) Water in fuel. Water may be present in fuel tank and carburetor. Drain
and refill fuel tank and carburetor bowl.
(b) Incorrect valve tappet adjustment or sticky valves. Test (step b (1)
below). Adjust tappets (par. 43). (c) Defective ignition system. Refer to
paragraph 32.
(d) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.
(e) Weak and/or broken valve springs. Refer to higher authority.
(7) Spark Knock.
(a) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32.
(b) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to step b (2) below.

(c) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.
(d) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph 30.
(8) Pounding and Excessive Metallic Noise.
(a) Front drive chain too loose. Refer to paragraph 36.
(b) Engine sprocket loose on shaft.
(c) Excessively loose valve tappets. Adjust (par. 43).
(d) Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten.
(e) Transmission mounting stud nuts loose. Tighten (par. 60).
(f) Spark timing incorrect. Adjust.
(g) Internal parts of engine worn or broken. Notify organization
mechanic.
b. Tests to Determine Mechanical Condition of Engine.
(1) Rings and Valves. This is a simple compression test. If possible,
make this test with the engine warm. Ignition switch must be off. Crank
engine slowly, placing entire weight of body on starter crank. Engine
compression should sustain the weight of an average size rider several
seconds before crank passes through complete range of its travel. If engine
offers little resistance to starter crank in testing either or both cylinders, it is
an indication that compression is not adequate in one or both cylinders. No
clearance or insufficient clearance at valve tappets; valves sticking in
guides; valves seating poorly; cylinder heads leaking; spark plugs loose in
heads; piston rings badly worn and/or broken; cylinder and pistons badly
worn, or lack of lubrication could cause the above condition. Make external
checks first: See that oil is in tank, that spark plugs are tight, and examine
around cylinder heads for signs of leaking oil deposits. In extremely cold
weather, resistance to the starter crank is increased by “stiff” oil in engine
and transmission. Therefore, do not mistake this condition to indicate actual
engine compression.
(2) Abnormal Engine Noise. Owing to constructional design of the
motorcycle, correct adjustment of the several units and components is
necessary for smooth and normally quiet engine operation. Many
motorcycles have been “deadlined” and engines exchanged because simple

tune‐up service and correct adjustment of components have been neglected.
Rough, jerky, and noisy engine action at low speed riding is usually caused
by excessively loose front and rear drive chains, or by a transmission being
loose in its frame mounting. Fast idling of engine with the front drive chain
too loose, may give the false impression that the engine bearings and
pistons need replacement service. Engine sprocket loose on its shaft will
cause a pounding noise similar to that of badly worn engine bearings. If
front drive chain is too tight, or engine sprocket and chain are badly worn, a
grinding noise results, seeming to come from the engine. Excessively loose
valve tappets will cause abnormal metallic noise in the valve timing gear
train and engine crankcase. Spark advanced too far will cause rough engine
performance at low speeds as well as spark knock, pounding, and
overheating. Engine pounding and rough operation with consequent noise,
result from loose mounting bolts. Generator mounted to give insufficient
gear‐tooth clearance will cause “howl” in gear case.

30. ENGINE LUBRICATING SYSTEM.
a. Action of the oil feed pump is indicated by the red signal light located
in right side of instrument panel. (Red signal light is normally grounded by
the oil pressure switch. When oil pump pressure is built up several pounds,
diaphragm opens the signal light circuit.) Action of the scavenger (oil
return) pump is indicated (engine running) by oil dripping from 1⁄8–inch
hole in oil return tube (large tube) inside oil tank, just back of oil gage rod
(dip stick) tube. Since the oil feed pump and scavenger pump are separate
units, operated individually, it is possible (due to faulty unit) for either to
function alone, thus affecting engine oil pressure and return of oil to the
tank. Action of the vent pipe (small pipe) located within the oil tank is of a
“breather” nature; its function not being indicated in any manner. Before
attempting to diagnose trouble in engine lubricating system, rider must be
familiar with and understand indications by instrument panel signal lights
(par. 7 f).
b. Red Signal Light Fails to Burn When Ignition and Light Switch is
Turned On.
(1) Check other lights to determine if battery is “up” and that switch and
wiring connections between battery and switch are in good order. See that

wire connection is secure and screw is tight on oil pressure switch terminal.
Failure of light to burn after these checks indicates that either the lamp is
burned out or oil pressure switch is faulty.
(2) Test to eliminate the oil pressure switch by removing wire from
switch terminal; ground wire on switch body and note if red light burns
with ignition and light switch in “ON” position. If light burns, it indicates
that oil pressure switch is faulty, and must be replaced. If light does not
burn in making this test, it indicates that lamp is burned out. Remove panel
cover (par. 119) and replace lamp.
c. Red Signal Light Continues to Burn After Engine Is Operated
Above Idling Speeds.
(1) Check oil supply in tank. If light fails to go out after engine is warm,
or after 1 minute of operation, further checks must be made to locate
trouble, as indication points to faulty engine lubrication system, or fault in
signal circuit. Eliminate the signal system first.
(2) Test oil pressure signal switch to panel signal light circuit. Remove
wire from oil pressure switch terminal by turning on ignition and light
switch and observing red signal light. If light burns, short circuit in wiring
exists. If light does not burn, it indicates normal condition, leaving oil
pressure switch of the signal circuit to be tested.
(3) Install new oil pressure switch and start engine. If red signal light
goes out after engine is operated above idling speeds, it indicates trouble in
oil pressure signal switch. If red signal light continues to burn, it indicates
trouble in oil feed pump. Replace pump (par. 44).
d. Excessive Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Oil Spray Issues from
Gear Case Breather Outlet. This is an indication that the scavenger pump
is not draining engine crankcase and returning oil to tank. With engine
running at idle speed, examine oil return in tank. Remove tank oil cap, and
with a small flashlight (tactical situation permitting), observe whether or not
oil is dripping from 1⁄8–inch hole in oil return tube. Hole is on under side of
tube and is located just back of oil gage rod tube. If observation is poor,
place finger over hole and feel for pulsation of oil pressure. If oil does not
return to tank, scavenger pump is faulty. Should the crankcase breather
valve be incorrectly timed, smoke will issue from the exhaust, but not as

noticeably as when scavenger pump is not working. Refer to step e below
for this condition.
e. Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Excessive Oil Condition Exists
Around Cylinder Exhaust Ports (where exhaust pipes enter cylinders).
Engine scavenger pump and crankcase breather valve are one unit, operated
by worm gear located behind engine shaft pinion gear. Although scavenger
pump is not “timed,” the breather valve sleeve which drives it must be
timed to balance the engine lubricating system. If for any reason the
scavenger pump unit is removed from engine base, the breather valve must
be retimed (within the gear case) when pump assembly is replaced.
Incorrectly timed breather valve will force oil past piston rings, causing
some smoke, besides forcing oil out through exhaust ports, causing
excessive oily condition around exhaust pipes where they enter cylinder
ports.

31. FUEL SYSTEM.
a. Many symptoms which might be attributed to the air‐fuel system are,
in reality, due to faulty ignition. Before attempting any but the obviously
required adjustments, check the ignition system thoroughly. Gasoline tank
supply valve is a dual purpose valve, and its operation is explained in
paragraph 5 b.
b. Shut off gasoline supply valve. Disconnect fuel line at strainer, open
valve, and observe free flow of fuel from pipe. If line is plugged, remove,
clean out, and replace.
c. Remove, disassemble, clean, and install fuel strainer (par. 72).
d. Hard Starting, Spitting, and Misfiring Caused by Water in Fuel.
Remove drain screw from carburetor bowl, drain bowl, and replace screw.
Take care not to cross drain screw threads when replacing. If there is still
evidence of water, dirt, or other foreign matter after bowl is drained, replace
carburetor (pars. 70 and 71). Remove air cleaner oil cup and inspect for
evidence of water in oil. Drain, clean, refill to correct level mark, and
replace cup. Should above procedure fail to eliminate trouble, drain fuel
tank by removing drain plug located under tank in forward position.
Replace drain plug and refill tank with fuel.

e. Hard Starting, or Missing at Idling and Low Speeds. Carburetor
low speed circuit in need of adjustment (par. 68). Carburetor high speed
circuit is controlled by a fixed jet.
f. Impossible to Obtain Satisfactory Carburetor Adjustment: Lean
Spot Between Idling and Up to 30 Miles per Hour Speeds. Carburetors
in service for some time become dirty and crust forms in the throttle barrel,
making satisfactory low speed adjustment difficult, if not impossible.
Replace carburetor (pars. 70 and 71).
g. Fuel Leaking from Carburetor. Evidence of dirt in float valve,
incorrect float level, or faulty float. Replace carburetor (pars. 70 and 71).
h. Difficult Starting, Fuel Mixture Too Rich. Air cleaner oil cup
overfilled, or cleaner elements exceptionally dirty, choking off adequate air
supply to carburetor. Check the oil cup level. If oil cup level is correct,
remove, clean, and install cleaner elements (par. 76).

32. IGNITION SYSTEM.
a. When checking ignition system for trouble, make the most obvious
and simple checks first. For example: Turn on ignition and light switch,
observe lights to ascertain battery current supply; then check to see that
current is reaching spark coil, circuit breaker, etc. Faulty spark plugs are
responsible for the great majority of engine ignition troubles. There is no
service for spark plugs other than sandblast cleaning and correct adjustment
of electrodes. Questionable spark plugs must be replaced (par. 83).
b. Remedy all poor connections in ignition wiring system ( fig. 48).
c. Remove circuit breaker cover, operate engine with starter pedal, and
observe opening and closing of circuit breaker points. Correct point gap
when breaker lever fiber is on highest point of cam is 0.022 inch. For
adjustment refer to paragraph 84.
d. Testing for High Tension Spark. Spark at plug gaps depends upon
condition and operation of circuit breaker points, condition of condenser,
and condition of spark coil and high‐tension cables. Testing the ignition
system is best done by means of elimination, testing each unit by
replacement until trouble is located; then replacing serviceable units which
were removed.

(1) Remove spark plug cable terminal from either plug, leaving other
cable and plug connected (to effect ground return of high‐tension current);
turn engine until circuit breaker points are closed; turn ignition and light
switch on; hold high tension cable terminal ¼ inch from cylinder; open and
close circuit breaker points with finger and observe spark jump at gap. If
spark jumps gap, it indicates ignition primary and secondary circuits are
complete.
(2) No spark at high‐tension gap calls for testing of primary and
secondary circuits. Turn engine until breaker points are held open; hold
cable end ¼ inch from cylinder; turn ignition switch on and with the bit of a
screwdriver, make a good ground connection between breaker movable
(lever) point, and the ground. If a good spark is obtained at high‐tension
cable terminal gap when ground connection made by screwdriver is broken,
clean or replace faulty breaker points (par. 84).
(3) If circuit breaker points are in good condition, but no spark (or a very
weak spark) occurs at high‐tension gap, replace condenser (par. 85) and
repeat test under step (1) above. If replacement of condenser does not
remedy trouble, replace spark coil (par. 89).
(4) If tests made under steps d (1), (2), and (3) above show ignition
system to be in good order (no units having been replaced), and ignition
trouble still exists, it means that breaker points, condenser, and spark coil
must be replaced with new units and engine road test made with each
replacement until trouble has been located and remedied.
e. Ignition System Tests Satisfactory but Engine Starts Hard,
Overheats or Misses. Clearly an indication that spark plugs are faulty.
Remove spark plugs, clean with sandblast, regap points between 0.028 inch
to 0.030 inch and reinstall. Replace defective plugs with new ones of
correct (No. 2) heat range (par. 83).
f. Engine Misses After Warm‐up, or When Quite Hot. Replacement of
spark plugs should remedy this trouble. If it does not, then either the
condenser or spark coil is at fault. Replace condenser first (par. 85). If new
condenser fails to correct trouble, replace spark coil (par. 89).

33. GENERATING SYSTEM.

a. Panel Green Signal Light Continues to Burn Above 20 Miles per
Hour. Correct faulty wiring and connections between battery and generator.
Refer to figure 55. Inspect condition of relay and, if necessary, replace (par.
95). Inspect brushes and commutator of generator. Clean commutator if
necessary (par. 91). If brushes are sticking in holders or badly worn, replace
generator (pars. 93 and 94).
b. Generator Output Fails to Keep Battery Charged Although Green
Signal Light Behavior Is Satisfactory. Test battery: if it will not hold
charge, or is defective, replace (par. 113). If the machine is used most of the
time for night operation, have a higher echelon increase the generating
charging rate. Inspect brushes and commutator of generator. Clean
commutator if necessary (par. 91). If brushes are badly worn or sticking in
holders, replace generator (pars. 93 and 94).

34. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.
a. Panel Lamps Do Not Light When Switch Is Turned On. Examine
each lamp and if burned out, replace (par. 120). Examine battery; if
discharged, replace (par. 113). Remedy defective wiring and connections
(fig. 71). Test light switch: if defective, replace (par. 116). Test blackout
light switch (in lamp body): if defective, replace lamp (par. 114).
b. Lights Burn Dim but Brighten Up Considerably When Engine Is
Accelerated. Test battery with hydrometer. If it is not fully charged, replace
(par. 113). Remedy defective wiring, connections, and switches in circuit
(fig. 73). If the battery runs down again after a short period of operation,
have the generator output increased (refer to a higher echelon).
c. Lights Exceed Normal Brilliancy When Accelerating Engine.
Examine battery: if defective, replace (par. 113). Remedy faulty wiring and
connections (fig. 73). Do not forget the ground connection of the lamp
body.
d. Blackout Stop Lamp and/or Service Stop Lamp Fail to Light. If
the unit is burned out, replace it (par. 115). If the brake pedal is not
operating switch, remedy the faulty operation. Remedy all faulty wiring and
connections (fig. 73).

e. Horn Does Not Sound When Ignition and Light Switch Is Turned
On and Horn Button Is Pressed. Test battery by turning on lights. If lights
are dim, replace battery (par. 113). Remedy defective wiring and
connections (fig. 73). If the horn does not respond to adjustment, replace
(par. 117).

35. TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH.
a. Need for attention to clutch and controls is indicated by clutch slipping
under load or dragging (transmission gears will shift hard and clash) when
in disengaged position. In either case, the first thing to be checked is
adjustment of controls; this being the attention usually needed. Indication
that gear shifter controls are in need of adjustment is when transmission
gears “jump” out of engagement when accelerating vehicle or when under
heavy pull. CAUTION: This warning must not be disregarded.
(1) Clutch Slips When Fully Engaged. Adjust clutch control (par. 48).
Adjust clutch spring tension (par. 48). If the clutch still slips, replace either
the disks, springs, or both (par. 48).
(2) Clutch Drags When Fully Disengaged. Adjust control (par. 48).
Adjust spring tension (par. 48).
(3) Clutch Rattles When in Disengaged Position, Engine Idling. In this
case, the clutch probably was not properly assembled. Refer to paragraph
51 a.
(4) Transmission “Jumps” Out of Gear Upon Accelerating Vehicle, or
When Under Heavy Pull. Adjust shifter lever control linkage (par. 54).
(5) Transmission Gears Shift Hard or Clash When Clutch is Fully
Disengaged. Adjust clutch control linkage and spring tension (par. 48).
Make sure the transmission mounting bolts and units are tight (pars. 57 and
58). Drain and fill transmission with correct lubricant (fig. 10). If the above
methods fail to cure the symptom, refer to a higher authority.

36. WHEELS AND CHAINS.
a. Transmission Countershaft and Rear Wheel Sprockets Show
Excessive Wear on One Side of Teeth. Adjust the position of the rear

wheel axle to aline the rear wheel sprocket with the transmission sprocket
(par. 60). If they cannot be alined, the frame is out of alinement, and the
trouble must be referred to a higher authority.
b. Chains Produce Grinding Noise with Engine Idling and Vehicle on
Rear Stand. If either chain is adjusted too tight, adjust to proper tension
(pars. 59 and 60). Examine both chains for presence of dirt and grit. If dirty,
clean and lubricate them (par. 20 c (10)). If either chain is dry, adjust chain
oilers (par. 61). Badly worn chains and sprockets will cause this symptom;
the worn parts must be replaced (pars. 62 and 63).
c. Front Chain Dry and/or Red (Rusty) in Appearance. The chain in
this condition has not been receiving enough lubrication. Adjust chain oiler
(par. 61). If the chain is damaged from lack of oil, replace (par. 62).
d. Rough or Jerky Vehicle Operation at Low Speed. Chains are too
loose. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).
e. Excessive Side Play at Rim of Front Wheel. Adjust bearing cones
(par. 126). If the cones and or hub races are badly worn, replace wheel (par.
125).
f. Front Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise (not
in brake). The wheel bearings are defective. Replace wheel (par. 125).
g. Rear Wheel Has Excessive Side Play at Rim of Wheel. The hub
bearings are defective. Replace wheel (par. 127).
h. Rear Wheel Has Side Play in Excess of 0.010 inch on Axle. The
thrust washers of hub are worn or damaged. Replace wheel (par. 127).
i. Rear Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise
(chain removed). Tighten wheel mounting screws. If this does not correct
noise, replace wheel (par. 127).

37. BRAKES.
a. Rear Brake Does Not Hold When Foot Pedal Is Depressed. If the
brake linings are wet, operate the vehicle and apply a slight pressure to the
brake pedal to dry out linings. After drying the linings adjust brake rod
length (par. 96 b). If the brake operating lever stands ahead of the vertical

position with brake applied, or the brake does not hold, replace the
defective brake shoes (par. 96).
b. Rear Brake Squeaks or Chatters When Used. Tighten side plate
sleeve nut, if it is loose. Adjust shoe position (par. 96). If the operating
camshaft and/or side cover bearing is worn, replace the assembly (par. 96).
If the brake shoe spring is defective, replace (par. 96). If the lining on the
brake shoes is loose, worn, or defective, replace shoes (par. 96). If the brake
drum is worn or damaged, replace the brake drum and sprocket assembly
(par. 96).
c. Rear Brake Drags (vehicle on rear stand). Adjust linkage (par. 96).
If it still drags, equalize shoe assemblies, and adjust linkage (par. 96).
d. Front Brake Does Not Hold When Hand Lever Is Operated. Adjust
brake control (par. 97). If brakes are wet, operate vehicle a short distance
with slight pressure on brake lever to dry out linings. If brake does not hold,
replace shoes (par. 97).
e. Front Brake Drags. Adjust control linkage (par. 97). If brake still
drags, equalize shoes and readjust control linkage (par. 97).
f. Front Brake Action Rough and/or Chatters. Adjust control linkage
assembly (par. 97). If malfunction continues, examine brake shoes, shoe
spring, camshaft bearing and side cover bearing. Replace any defective
parts or assemblies (par. 97).

38. STEERING.
a. Motorcycle Pulls to One Side. Inspect and correct alinement of rear
wheel (par. 60). If the front forks are bent or twisted, replace (par. 98). If
trouble persists, refer to higher authority.
b. Motorcycle Weaves from Side to Side. Adjust steering damper to suit
speed and road conditions. If this fails, inflate tires to correct pressure.
Make sure rear wheel mounting screws are tight. If the steering head
bearings are too tight, weaving will result. Check the steering head bearings
(par. 98), and adjust if necessary.
c. Motorcycle Shimmies at High Speed. Inflate tires to correct pressure.
Adjust steering damper to suit speed and road conditions. If the tire tread is

unevenly worn, and shifting tires does not correct the condition, replace the
defective casings. Make sure the axle nuts are tight. If the rocker plate studs
and bushings are badly worn, or the fork springs are broken, replace (par.
98).

Section XI

ENGINE

Paragraph
Description and data 39
Tune‐up 40
Replacement of head gasket 41
Carbon removal 42
Valve tappet adjustment 43
Replacement of oil feed pump 44

39. DESCRIPTION AND DATA.
a. Description. This 2‐cylinder, V‐type, air‐cooled gasoline engine of L‐
head design operates on the 4‐stroke, 4‐cycle principle. Flywheel and
connecting rod assemblies operate on roller bearings. Engine is fitted with
low‐expansion aluminum alloy, cam‐ground, horizontally slotted pistons
and with deep‐finned aluminum cylinder heads. As viewed from left side of
vehicle (drive chain side), rotation of engine is counterclockwise.
b. Lubrication system is of dry‐sump type, in which oil supply is
maintained in a tank away from engine. Oil is circulated by a supply feed
pump and a scavenger, return pump. This oil circulating system plays a
most important part in cooling the engine as well as lubricating it.
c. Data.

Type of engine 2‐cylinder, V‐type, L‐head, air‐cooled
Cylinder bore 2¾ in.
Stroke 313⁄16 in.
Piston displacement 45.12 cu in.
Compression ratio 5.0:1
Horsepower (N.A.C.C. Rating) 6.05
Engine number (serial), left side of engine base, just below front cylinder.

40. TUNE‐UP.
a. Tune‐up consists of making correct adjustment to valve tappets, circuit
breaker ignition points, spark plug electrodes: checking and correcting
ignition timing; draining and flushing carburetor bowl; cleaning and
flushing gasoline strainer; cleaning muffler outlet, servicing air cleaner, and
adjusting carburetor.
(1) Valve tappet adjustment (par. 43).
(2) Circuit breaker point adjustment (par. 84).
(3) Spark plug service (par. 83).
(4) Timing ignition (par. 86).
(5) Draining carburetor bowl (par. 73).
(6) Cleaning fuel strainer (par. 72).
(7) Cleaning muffler outlet requires freeing outlet of carbon deposits,
caked dirt, oil, etc., with blade of screwdriver, or other suitable tool. Do not
enlarge outlet size when cleaning.
(8) Servicing air cleaner (par. 76).
(9) Adjusting carburetor (par. 68).

A—CYLINDER BRACKET SPACERS AND WASHERS
B—CYLINDER BRACKET AND FRAME BOLT
C—CYLINDER UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET
D—SPARK CABLE CLIP
E—CYLINDER BRACKET BOLTS
F—OIL RETURN PIPE CONNECTION HOLLOW BOLT AND
WASHERS
RA PD 315711
Figure 15—Disassembly for Head Gasket Replacement

41. REPLACEMENT OF HEAD GASKET (fig. 15).
a. Removal. Refer to figure 15, illustrating necessary parts and units to
be removed to perform this operation.
(1) Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119).

(2) Remove gasoline tank and oil tank (par. 107).
(3) Remove cylinder head bracket to frame lug bolt: this will free clamp
which secures front spark plug cable. Pay particular attention to shim
washers placed between cylinder head bracket and frame lug, as these
washers must be replaced when installing cylinder head.
(4) Remove spark plug, or plugs.
(5) Remove cylinder head bolts, using head bolt wrench 41–W–1525.
NOTE: On some 42 WLA models, plain washers (0.095–inch thick), in
addition to regular (heavy) cylinder head bolt washers, were used to
prevent cylinder head bolts from bottoming.
(6) Perform carbon removal (head only). Refer to paragraph 42.
b. Installing Gasket and Head (fig. 15).
(1) Clean top of cylinder. Apply a light application of grease or oil to
both sides of gasket before locating on cylinder head. Place head on
cylinder.
(2) Install head bolts, using heavy washers (also 0.095–inch thick plain
washers, if any were removed). If in doubt as to use of 0.095–inch thick
washers in addition to regular washers, measure depth of bolt holes in
cylinder head. Head having hole depth of 31/32 inch must use the 0.095–
inch thick washers in addition to regular washers. Head having bolt hole
depth of 11⁄16 inch does not require the 0.095–inch thick washers.
(3) Install cylinder frame bracket with the two long bolts, special (spool‐
shaped) spacers, and flat washers. The spacers go between cylinder heads
and frame bracket. A flat washer goes under the head of each long cylinder
bolt, above the bracket; some engines may have flat washers between the
spacers and the bracket.
(4) Tighten head bolts evenly to ensure a tight cylinder head joint. Use
head bolt wrench 41–W–1525, first turning down bolts just snug, then
tightening each bolt 1⁄8 to ¼ turn at a time, until all are securely tightened. If
torque wrench is available, tighten head bolts to 60 foot‐pounds minimum,
65 foot‐pounds maximum tension when engine is cold.

42. CARBON REMOVAL.

a. At time cylinder head is removed for gasket replacement, carbon must
be removed from head only.

43. VALVE TAPPET ADJUSTMENT (fig. 16).
a. Adjust Tappets with Engine Cold. Before loosening valve spring
covers, a light application of oil around top edge of each cover will
facilitate raising cover without damage to seal packing.
(1) Loosen valve spring covers; use tappet and valve cover wrench 41–
W–3617.
(2) Before checking or adjusting tappet clearance, make sure valve is
seated and that tappet is at lowest position, by turning engine ahead until
like tappet (inlet or exhaust, whichever one is being adjusted) in the other
cylinder is at highest position (valve fully open). Inlet valves are located
nearest the carburetor manifold.

RA PD 310211
Figure 16—Valve Tappet Adjustment

(4) Loosen adjusting screw lock nut (“2,” fig. 16) slightly before turning
adjusting screw (fig. 16).
(5) Adjust inlet valve tappets to 0.004–inch minimum, and 0.005–inch
maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet (“1” and “4,” fig. 16).
Use thickness gage to determine clearance; recheck (correcting if
necessary) clearance after lock nut has been securely tightened.
(6) Adjust exhaust valve tappets to 0.006–inch minimum, and 0.007–inch
maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet. Use thickness gage to

determine clearance; recheck (correcting if necessary) clearance after lock
nut has been securely tightened.
(7) Before turning down valve spring covers, inspect paper gasket
between each cover and tappet guide. If broken or damaged, fit a new
gasket to prevent oil leak. Turn down and securely tighten valve spring
covers.

RA PD 315712
Figure 17—Oil Pump Removed

44. REPLACEMENT OF OIL FEED PUMP (fig. 17).
a. Removal.
(1) Disconnect oil tank feed pipe at oil tank. Install nipple cap on tank
nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank. Disconnect oil feed
pipe from oil pump nipple.
(2) Oil pump is secured to engine gear case cover by one hexagon head
bolt and three nuts. Two of the nuts are extra long to provide wrench
clearance, and their location should be noted so they will be put back where
they belong when reinstalling pump. After removing screw and nuts,
remove pump. Unless a new pump gasket is available, take care not to
damage or break the old one, as this is a very special gasket concerning
both thickness and holes provided for oil channels. A “homemade” gasket
may put oiling system completely out of commission.
b. Installing Oil Pump.
(1) Clean surface of pump body mounting on gear case cover and see that
gasket is in good condition. Clean face of oil pump body.
(2) Start pump on mounting studs, turn engine slowly and press lightly
against pump until driving dogs on end of cam gear shaft line up with and
drop into driving slot in oil pump rotor.
(3) Insert hexagon‐head bolt and lock washer, and install the three lock
washers and nuts (two are long extension nuts) on pump mounting studs.
Make sure to replace the two extra long nuts on the studs from which they
were originally removed.
(4) Tighten mounting bolt and three nuts securely.
(5) Connect oil feed pipe to oil pump nipple. Remove nipple cap from
tank nipple and connect upper end of oil feed pipe to this nipple. Tighten
nipple nuts securely.

Section XII

ENGINE—REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Paragraph
Remove engine 45
Install engine 46

45. REMOVE ENGINE (figs. 18, 19, and 20).
a. A study of figures 18 and 19 will provide a good picture of the steps
necessary for engine removal. Do not attempt any short cut methods, as this
would consume more time and possibly cause damage to parts or unit
assemblies.
(1) Disconnect battery ground wire at frame lug connection on right side
of vehicle.
(2) To disconnect brake front rod from bell crank (located on right side of
rear support rod), remove cotter pin and plain washer.
(3) Loosen footboard rear support stud nut and remove footboard front
stud nut, then pull footboard outward to free right front end of safety guard.
Disconnect brake front rod at bell crank. Remove bolt which secures front
exhaust pipe clamp. Remove nut from rear support rod, freeing stop light
switch and rear end of side bar. Remove nut from front support rod, freeing
footboard and brake assembly for removal.
(4) Remove the two rear mounting bolts and drop rear end of skid plate
(fig. 37).
(5) Remove muffler (par. 81).
(6) Disconnect oil pipe from tank and install nipple cap on oil tank feed
pipe nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank. Disconnect pipe
from oil pump and remove oil pipe.
(7) Disconnect spark control wire at circuit breaker lever, and free control
housing clamp at cylinder base.
(8) Disconnect brake rear rod from bell crank.

(9) Disconnect red wire and black wire from front end of relay; also
green wire from generator terminal.
(10) Remove spark plugs.
(11) Remove engine top mounting (cylinder head bracket) bracket to
frame lug bolt: this also frees front spark plug cable clamp. Pay particular
attention to shim washers (if any) between cylinder head bracket and frame
lug; these will have to be installed in the original position.
(12) Remove lever bottom bolt, freeing gear shifter lever from shifter
rod.

RA PD 315713
A—LEFT FOOTBOARD, CLUTCH PEDAL AND SIDEBAR
ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS

B—SPARK CONTROL WIRE AND HOUSING
C—ENGINE SPROCKET, KEY, NUT AND FRONT DRIVE CHAIN
D—ENGINE SPROCKET SHAFT
E—REAR SUPPORT ROD
F—INNER CHAIN GUARD
G—AIR CLEANER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY
H—OUTER CHAIN GUARD REAR MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER,
SPRING, NUT AND COTTER PIN
J—SPARK COIL REAR TERMINAL NUT, WASHER AND SCREW
K—OUTER CHAIN GUARD
L—AIR CLEANER BRACKET UPPER MOUNTING BOLT NUTS
AND WASHERS
M—AIR CLEANER HOSE AND CARBURETOR FITTING
ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING SCREWS
N—ENGINE LEFT REAR BASE MOUNTING BOLT CASTLE NUT,
WASHERS AND COTTER PIN
O—REAR SUPPORT ROD EXTENDED NUT
P—INNER CHAIN GUARD MOUNTING SCREWS AND LOCKS
Q—FUEL PIPE AND STRAINER ASSEMBLY
R—ENGINE LEFT FRONT BASE MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS,
CASTLE NUT AND COTTER PIN
S—GEAR SHIFTER AND ROD ATTACHING BOLT, WASHER AND
NUT
T—TANK, LOWER FRONT MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND
NUT
U—ENGINE SPROCKET NUT WRENCH
RA PD 315713B
Figure 18—Disassembly for Engine Removal—Left Side

RA PD 315714
A—MUFFLER ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLTS AND NUTS
B—SKID PLATE
C—STOP LIGHT SWITCH
D—REAR BRAKE ROD FRONT END
E—CYLINDER BRACKET AND FRAME MOUNTING BOLT,
SPACING WASHERS, SPARK CABLE CLIP AND NUT
F—ENGINE RIGHT FRONT BASE MOUNTING BOLT, CASTLE
NUT, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN
G—RELAY TERMINAL SCREWS AND WASHERS
H—SAFETY GUARD END

J—RIGHT FOOTBOARD, BRAKE PEDAL AND SIDEBAR
ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS
K—FRONT EXHAUST PIPE CLAMP, BOLT, WASHER AND NUT
L—EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY
M—SPARK PLUGS AND GASKETS
N—REAR SUPPORT ROD, WASHER AND NUT
O—BRAKE ROD BELLCRANK
P—ENGINE REAR BASE MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS, CASTLE
NUT AND COTTER PIN
Q—OIL FEED PIPE
R—VENT PIPE HOLLOW BOLT AND WASHER
S—VENT PIPE
T—OIL RETURN PIPE
RA PD 315714B
Figure 19—Disassembly for Engine Removal—Right Side

(13) Close fuel tank valve. Remove gasoline pipe from tank nipple and
fuel filter nipple.
(14) Disconnect throttle control wire at carburetor lever.
(15) Disconnect air intake hose connection fitting from carburetor (four
screws) and leave attached to hose. Remove air cleaner from mounting
bracket (par. 78).

RA PD 310215
Figure 20—Removing Engine

(16) Remove front chain guard (par. 102).
(17) Remove engine sprocket (par. 65).
(18) Remove two screws and locks securing inner chain guard to
crankcase.

(19) With 13⁄16–inch deep socket wrench slipped over rear footboard
support rod stud, remove extended nut, and withdraw support rod from right
side of vehicle.
(20) To disconnect the circuit breaker to coil wire and shielding ground
from coil rear terminals, disconnect oil pressure signal light wire from oil
pressure switch terminal. It will be necessary to free air cleaner mounting
bracket and swing it outward, to gain access to coil rear shielding ground
terminal.
(21) Engine mounting bolts are secured by cotter pins and castle nuts.
Remove all engine mounting bolts, except the one under generator; this bolt
cannot be removed without removing generator; merely push it up far
enough to clear frame engine lug when engine is removed from frame.
(22) Lift and remove engine from right side of frame.

46. INSTALL ENGINE (figs. 18, 19, and 20).
a. Installing the engine is generally the reverse of the procedure
followed in engine removal. Pay close attention to the following procedure
because checking and adjustment of controls and other items is necessary to
satisfactory vehicle operation.
(1) Lift engine into frame from right side of vehicle. Make sure that
mounting bolt under generator is raised to clear frame engine lug.
(2) Pass remaining three engine mounting bolts up from under side of
frame lugs through crankcase lugs: install plain washers and castle nuts. Fit
plain washer and castle nut on mounting bolt under generator. Securely
tighten all four castle nuts and lock with cotter pins.
(3) Connect circuit breaker to coil wire. Connect wire to coil rear
terminal and ground shielding on coil case terminal.
(4) Connect oil pressure switch wire to switch terminal.
(5) Pass rear footboard support rod through frame lug from right side of
vehicle and install the extended 13⁄16–inch nut.
(6) Secure inner chain guard by attaching the two screws and locks
mounting inner chain guard to engine base. Drift edge of locks into screw

slots for security.
(7) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain together. See that engine
shaft is clean, sprocket taper clean, and that key is in place before tightening
sprocket nut. Drift nut tight, using hammer on wrench.
(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102).
(9) Connect hose and fitting assembly by installing two bolts, washers,
and nuts securing air cleaner to frame bracket; then install four screws
securing hose fitting to carburetor. NOTE: If cleaner frame bracket was
loosened and shifted to gain access to coil rear terminals, securely mount
bracket before installing air cleaner assembly.
(10) Connect throttle control wire to carburetor lever. Make sure that
throttle closes fully when right grip is turned outward; and that throttle
opens fully when grip is turned inward.
(11) Install fuel pipe. Securely tighten union nuts on tank and fuel
strainer nipples. Open fuel supply valve and check connections for leaks.
(12) Connect gear shifter lever end to gear shifter rod by tightening bolt
and nut.
(13) Attach engine top mounting bracket (cylinder head bracket) to frame
lug, exercising care in installing required number of thin shims, together
with clamp for front spark plug cable, to fill space between bracket and
frame lug before tightening bolt nut. NOTE: Frame lug must be free from
paint or grease to make clean “electrical” connection with plated shims
and mounting bracket for adequate radio bonding.
(14) Before installing spark plugs, inspect for cleanliness and correct
electrode adjustment. Service if necessary (par. 83). Replace gaskets to
ensure tight joints.
(15) Connect red and black wires to relay: connect green wire to
generator terminal marked “SWITCH.” Refer to wiring diagram (fig. 73).
(16) Attach rear brake rod to bell crank. Install plain washer and secure
with cotter pin.
(17) Connect spark control wire to circuit breaker lever and secure
control wire housing clamp under cylinder base nut. Make sure that spark

advances fully (lever inward) when control grip (left handle bar) is turned
inward, and that spark retards fully when control grip is turned outward.
Make needed adjustment at control wire and lever connection.
(18) Remove nipple cap from tank oil pipe nipple (if one was used) and
connect oil feed pipe, securely tightening union nuts at tank and oil pump.
(19) Position exhaust pipe and muffler assembly and attach rear hanger
frame bolt, washer, and nut. Secure muffler front mounting bracket bolt, but
do not tighten nut until skid plate rear bracket is located on this bolt.
(20) Lift rear end of skid plate, secure rear mounting bracket and muffler
front mounting bracket with bolt, washer, and nut. Attach skid plate left side
bracket, tightening support rod nut and bracket bolt and nut.
(21) Install right side footboard, sidebar, and brake pedal assembly.
Install stop light switch bracket on rear support rod before placing lock
washer and tightening nut. Attach front exhaust pipe clamp to sidebar.
Install lock washer, and tighten sidebar front support rod nut. Attach right
end of front safety guard to sidebar with footboard front support stud.
Replace lock washer, and tighten nut. Also tighten footboard rear support
stud nut. Connect stop light switch control to brake foot pedal.
(22) Attach brake front rod to bell crank; fit plain washer and secure with
cotter pin.
(23) Connect battery ground wire to frame lug on right side of vehicle.
b. Check instrument panel signal lights for normal indications, and see
that oil is in tank before starting engine.

Section XIII

CLUTCH

Paragraph
Description 47
Maintenance and adjustment 48
Removal of disks 49
Inspection of disks and springs 50
Installation of disks 51
Replacement of clutch release bearing 52

47. DESCRIPTION (fig. 21).
a. Clutch is of simple multiple‐dry‐disk type, having two steel disks and
three lined disks, one of which provides spring action within disk pack to
“cushion” clutch operation.

48. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT (figs. 22, 23, 24, and 25).
a. If clutch adjustment is correctly maintained, clutch will cause very
little trouble. Ease of gear shifting and service life of transmission gear
shifter clutch dogs depend largely upon full disengagement of the clutch.
Clutch adjustment is in two parts; namely, control linkage and spring
tension. Do not adjust clutch spring tension before correcting control
adjustment.
b. Clutch Control Linkage (fig. 22). Operation of foot pedal, control
cable, and clutch release lever actuates the push rod through hollow
transmission shaft, disengaging or engaging clutch at will. Correct
adjustment to control cable and release lever must be made before push rod
adjustment is made.
c. Clutch Control Adjustment (figs. 23, 24, 25, and 26).
(1) Adjusting Cable Length. With clutch in fully disengaged position
(foot pedal heel down) the clutch release lever must clear the countershaft
sprocket cover stud and/or nut by 1⁄16 inch. Should clutch release lever strike

sprocket cover and nut, clutch push rod movement is restricted, and clutch
cannot be fully disengaged. Length of control cable must be adjusted to
obtain 1⁄16–inch clutch release lever and sprocket cover stud and/or nut
clearance. To lengthen or shorten clutch control cable, cable adjustable end
must be removed from foot pedal stud (figs. 23 and 24). With foot pedal in
forward (toe down) position, remove cotter pin and washer retaining cable
end. Release other end of cable from notch in clutch release lever by
pressing release lever inward and lifting cable end out of notch. Rock the
foot pedal to rear (heel down) position and work cable adjustable end off
foot pedal stud. Loosen lock nut and turn cable end to right (clockwise) to
shorten cable; turn to left (counter‐clockwise) to lengthen cable. Tighten
lock nut, install cable end on foot pedal stud; install washer and cotter pin,
and install other end of cable in clutch release lever notch.

A—CLUTCH HUB COMPLETE, WITH LINER, BEARING, STUDS,
ETC.
B—HUB DISK LINING.
C—LINING RIVET (6 USED).
D—PIN (7 USED).
E—STUD.
F—SPROCKET COMPLETE WITH DISK SPLINE RING.
G—LINED DISKS (2 USED).
H—PLAIN STEEL DISKS (2 USED).
J—SPRUNG STEEL DISK WITH ONE LINING.

K—RELEASING DISK (WITH PUSH ROD ADJUSTING SCREW
AND ADJUSTING SCREW).
L—CLUTCH SPRINGS (10 USED).
M—STUD NUT LOCKING WASHER (3 USED).
N—STUD NUT (3 USED).
O—SPRING COMPRESSION COLLAR.
P—PUSH ROD ADJUSTING SCREW.
Q—ADJUSTING SCREW LOCK NUT.
R—RETAINING PLATE LOCK RING (3 USED).
S—BEARING RETAINING PLATE.
T—60 7/32–INCH STEEL BALLS.
U—BALL BEARING RETAINER.
RA PD 310218
Figure 21—Clutch, Disassembled

RA PD 310219
Figure 22—Clutch Control Linkage

RA PD 310220
Figure 23—Clutch Lever and Stud Nut Clearance

RA PD 310221
Figure 24—Control Cable Length Adjustment

RA PD 315715
Figure 25—Clutch Adjustments

(2) Adjusting Clearance of Clutch Release Lever and Push Rod (fig.
25). With clutch release lever and sprocket cover stud clearance correctly
adjusted (step (1) above), clutch release lever must have between 1⁄8–inch
and ¼–inch free play at end where control cable engages lever notch (fig.
25). This free play ensures a fully engaged clutch without pressure on
clutch release bearing. Adjustment is made by means of push rod adjusting
screw located in clutch outer disk. Remove two screws which secure
inspection hole cover to chain guard (fig. 25). If clutch release lever has less
than 1⁄8–inch free play at end of cable, loosen push rod adjusting screw lock
nut and turn push rod adjusting screw to the left (counter‐clockwise) to
increase amount of free play. If clutch release lever has more than ¼–inch
free play at end of cable, turn adjusting screw to the right (clockwise) to
decrease amount of free play. Tighten lock nut after correct adjustment is
obtained. Replace inspection hole cover. CAUTION: If end of clutch
release lever has no free play as explained above, clutch will not hold when
fully engaged. If too much free play is allowed, clutch will drag when
disengaged; consequently, transmission gears will shift hard, clash, and
eventually become damaged.

RA PD 310223
Figure 26—Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension

d. Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension (fig. 26). If clutch slips (does not
hold when starting engine or with vehicle in operation) after controls have
been correctly adjusted (step c (1) and (3) above), spring tension must be
increased. NOTE: Do not increase spring tension any more than actually
required to make clutch hold.
(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. 102).
(2) Bend down lock lips to free the three clutch adjusting nuts.
(3) Turning nuts to right (clockwise) increases clutch spring tension.
Tighten (turn to right) all three adjusting nuts, one‐half turn at a time, until
clutch holds. Test clutch after each half‐turn of the three adjusting nuts by
cranking engine. Usually a clutch that holds without any noticeable slippage
when cranking engine, also holds on the road.
(4) After clutch spring tension adjustment is made, bend up nut lock lips
to secure adjusting nuts. Replace any broken or badly damaged locks.

(5) When a new clutch is originally assembled and adjusted, the distance
from the inner edge of shoulder on spring collar to face of outer (releasing)
disk is 1–3/32 inches (fig. 27). In any case, do not tighten the three
adjusting nuts to the point where inner edge of shoulder of spring collar is
closer than ⅞ inch to face of outer (releasing) disk. If compressed more,
clutch probably cannot be fully disengaged.

RA PD 310224
Figure 27—Measuring Distance Between Spring Collar and Disk

(7) If clutch still does not hold, after correct control and spring tension
adjustments have been made, clutch “pack” assembly must be replaced (par.
49).
(8) After making clutch spring tension adjustment, replace outer front
chain guard (par. 102).

49. REMOVAL OF DISKS (figs. 28, 29, and 30).
a. Clutch disks can be removed for inspection, cleaning, and/or replacing.
Springs can be removed for checking and/or replacing without disturbing
sprocket, which is integral with clutch shell. It is advisable to remove
releasing (outer) disk, springs, and collar as an assembly because it is
difficult to correctly aline, hold in place, and reassemble springs in this unit.
If springs show signs of overheating, and appear to be “set,” they should be
removed, measured, and replaced if necessary (par. 50).

RA PD 315716
Figure 28—Removing Spring and Outer Disk Assembly

(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut. Place a large flat washer,
approximately 1⁄8–inch thick, 1¾–inch in diameter with a ⅜–inch center
hole, over push rod adjusting screw, and replace adjusting screw lock nut
just removed (fig. 28). Tighten adjusting screw lock nut against large
washer until the three clutch spring adjusting nuts are free. Bend nut lock
down, remove the three adjusting nuts, and withdraw releasing (outer) disk
and spring assembly as one unit. Remaining lined and plain steel disks can
now be removed from sprocket and clutch shell unit without further
disassembly (fig. 30). NOTE: At time lined and plain disks are removed
from shell, observe relative position of each disk in order of correct
assembly.

50. INSPECTION OF DISKS AND SPRINGS.
a. Worn Disk Liners. When disk liners are worn down flush (or nearly
flush) with rivet heads, disk and liner assembly must be replaced.

RA PD 315717
Figure 29—Outer Assembly Removed, Exposing Clutch Disks

RA PD 315718
Figure 30—Clutch Disks, Removed

b. Loose Liner Rivets. If disk liner rivets are loose, replace disk and
liner assembly with like assembly in new or good order.
c. Oil‐soaked Disk Liners. If lined disks are not badly worn, but are oil‐
soaked, wash them thoroughly in clean gasoline and dry with air or heat.
d. Shrunken or Weak Springs. If clutch has been badly overheated as a
result of slippage, springs may be found in shrunken or weakened
condition. Assuming disk liners are not badly worn, weakened springs are
indicated when the three spring tension nuts have been tightened to make
the clutch hold until the distance between spring collar and releasing (outer)

disk is ⅞ inch. If shrunken or weak springs are suspected, remove them for
inspection.
(1) To remove springs, remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut, freeing
spring collar and the 10 springs from the releasing (outer) disk assembly.
(2) Measure springs for free length. Free length of new clutch springs is
approximately 1½ inches (they may vary plus or minus 1/32 inch). Old
springs found to be shrunk 1⁄8 inch (total free length of spring is 1⅜ inch or
less) must be replaced with new springs. NOTE: Before replacing springs,
select 10 springs that do not vary more than 1/32 inch to make up the
assembly.
(3) Assembling Releasing Disk, Springs, and Spring Collar. Place the
10 springs upright on releasing disk to centrally locate each of the 10 stud
holes. Place spring collar (flanged edge down) over ends of springs,
locating the collar plate “dimples” in ends of 7 of the springs. Place the
large washer over push rod adjusting screw; tighten adjusting screw nut,
and compress springs lightly. Turn assembly over and observe alinement of
springs and disk holes. If necessary, insert a ⅜–inch rod through holes to
aline springs. Tighten down adjusting screw nut; assembly is now ready for
complete clutch assembly.

51. INSTALLATION OF DISKS (figs. 30, 29, and 28).
a. It is important when assembling a clutch to start with a lined disk.
Install the two steel disks so that the antirattle devices are staggered on
splines in the shell, and the “sprung” disk (lined on one side) is the last of
the pack, its lined side facing the steel disk. Before installing disks, see that
bearing retaining plate lock rings (“R,” fig. 21) are in place on the short
studs, and are tight against the retaining plate. This is to prevent noise in the
clutch.
(1) Install one of the two lined disks on clutch hub studs first.
(2) Next, engage one of the two steel disks with the splines within the
clutch shell, with side stamped “OUT” facing outward.
(3) Install the remaining lined disk on the clutch hub studs.

(4) Engage remaining steel disk with shell splines with “OUT” side
facing outward.
(5) Install “sprung” (one side lined) steel disk, lined side inward, on
clutch hub studs.
(6) It will be noted that the three long, threaded‐end, clutch hub studs are
not spaced an equal distance apart. It will also be noted that the three holes
(keyhole shaped) in the spring collar are not spaced equidistantly.
Therefore, when installing releasing disk and spring assembly on clutch hub
studs, the three threaded studs and holes in spring collar must be alined.
Install assembly on studs, replace the three nut locks, replace the three
adjusting nuts, and tighten all three evenly until the distance between
shoulder of spring collar and face of releasing disk is 1–1/32 inch (fig. 27).
(7) Remove the large washer and replace push rod adjusting screw lock
nut. Do not attempt adjustment of clutch release lever and push rod
adjusting screw until outer front chain guard and footboard have been
installed.

RA PD 315719
Figure 31—Removing Clutch Releasing Bearing Assembly

(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102).
(9) Check controls and clutch adjustment. If necessary, correct according
to paragraph 48.

52. REPLACEMENT OF CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (fig. 31).
a. Clutch release lever acts against a thrust bearing and push rod
assembly which actuates clutch releasing disk.

b. Remove Clutch Release Bearing. Engage clutch fully (foot pedal toe
down) and disengage clutch control cable end from slotted end of clutch
release lever.
(1) Loosen rear chain guard by removing cap screw which retains rear
chain oil pipe and secures front end of rear drive chain guard to
transmission countershaft sprocket cover.
(2) Remove the four nuts which secure sprocket cover to transmission.
(3) Remove filler plug.
(4) Hold down starter crank with screwdriver.
(5) Remove sprocket cover and clutch release lever assembly. It may be
necessary to pry cover off studs. With cover removed, clutch release
bearing is exposed.
(6) Withdraw clutch release bearing and push rod assembly from
transmission shaft.
c. Install Clutch Release Bearing.
(1) Insert push rod with clutch release bearing assembly into transmission
shaft hole, as far as rod will go. See that bearing is clean and well greased.
(2) Install sprocket cover. Securely tighten the four nuts.
(3) Install cap screw which secures rear chain guard end and chain oiler
pipe clamp to sprocket cover.
(4) Engage clutch control cable end in slotted end of clutch release lever.
(5) Check clutch release lever for free play at end of cable.

Section XIV

TRANSMISSION

Paragraph
Description 53
Control linkage 54
Replacement of foot starter crank 55
Replacement of starter crank spring 56
Remove transmission 57
Install transmission 58

53. DESCRIPTION.
a. Transmission has three speeds: low, second, and high, and is of the
constant‐mesh, non‐selective type. High gear is direct drive. Since “dogs”
on gear shifter clutches are used to engage transmission gears, it is of great
importance that vehicle clutch is correctly adjusted. Clutch must be fully
disengaged when shifting gears, to prevent clashing of gears, and possible
damage to the shifter clutch “dogs” and transmission gears. It is also
important that gear shifter control linkage be kept in correct adjustment to
ensure full engagement of shifter clutch driving dogs in all positions, thus
preventing possible damage caused by dogs jumping out of engagement
under driving load. Close fitting and needle roller bearings, within the
transmission, necessitate use of engine oil (seasonal grade) in transmission
case for adequate lubrication.

54. CONTROL LINKAGE (fig. 32).
a. Transmission Shifted to Adjust Front Drive Chain. The
transmission is located to receive power from front (engine) drive chain and
transmit power through rear drive chain to rear wheel, and is movable on its
mounting for adjustment of the front (engine) drive chain. When front
(engine) drive chain is adjusted, transmission gear shifter control linkage is
affected. Therefore, after each front drive chain adjustment, gear shifter
control linkage must be checked, and, if necessary, correctly adjusted to

ensure proper gear shifting with full engagement of the gear shifter clutch
driving “dogs” as well as prevent transmission from jumping out of gear
under load.
b. Checking Gear Shifter Control Linkage. Before making adjustment
to gear shifter control linkage, make the following checks: See that all
linkage points from transmission gear shifter lever to gear shifter hand lever
are well oiled and free‐working. Check hand lever pivot bolt nut for
tightness. Observe whether there is binding or interference with shifter rod
at any point in the shifting range; this sometimes results from a bent snifter
rod. Check whether or not shifter rod is correctly adjusted so that when
hand lever is moved to any gear position in tank shifter guide, transmission
lever moves to the proper position to fully engage shifter clutch dogs and
shifter cam spring plunger in cam‐locating notch (inside transmission).

RA PD 310229
Figure 32—Adjusting Gear Shifter Rod

c. Adjusting Gear Shifter Control Linkage (fig. 32).
(1) Set hand lever in “N” (neutral) position in shifter guide.
(2) Remove nut and bolt to disconnect shifter rod from hand lever.
(3) With slight backward and forward movement of shifter rod, carefully
“feel” transmission lever into exact position where shifter cam spring

plunger (inside transmission) seats fully in cam‐locating notch.
(4) Next, see that hand lever is in exact “N” (neutral) position in tank
shifter guide.
(5) Readjust length of shifter rod by loosening rod end lock nut, and
turning rod end (onto or off rod as necessary) until its bolt hole lines up
with bolt hole in hand lever.
(6) Replace bolt and tighten nut.
(7) Check Adjustment. It is advisable to shift hand lever into “L” (low)
and “S” (second) gear positions and check shifter rod adjustment to be sure
of having best all‐round adjustment.
(8) When shifter clutches become worn or damaged to the extent of
jumping out of engagement under driving load, even though shifter control
linkage is correctly adjusted, transmission must be removed and referred to
higher authority for service.

55. REPLACEMENT OF FOOT STARTER CRANK.
a. Remove.
(1) Remove starter crank clamp bolt nut and remove bolt from crank.
(2) Pull starter crank off squared shaft.
b. Install. In installing foot starter crank, notch (for clamp‐bolt
clearance) must be in upward position in squared shaft to put return spring
tension on crank.
(1) Use a 5⁄8–inch, open‐end wrench and turn square shaft
counterclockwise until bolt slot is upward. Hold shaft in this position and
press starter crank onto shaft until clamping bolt can be inserted.
(2) Insert clamp bolt with bolt head toward rear wheel (crank in upward
position) to provide clearance when starter crank is operated.
(3) Fit lock washer and nut and tighten nut securely.

56. REPLACEMENT OF STARTER CRANK SPRING (fig. 33).

a. Starter crank spring fits rather snugly behind rear edge of countershaft
sprocket cover; however, it can be removed and installed without removing
sprocket cover.
b. Remove.
(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. 55).
(2) With the blade of a screwdriver or with pliers, pry hooked end of
spring off stud. NOTE: If spring is broken, this operation will not be
necessary. Pull on spring end, at same time prying spring free of sprocket
cover so as to pull spring off square shaft.
c. Install.
(1) Turn squared shaft so that clamp bolt notch is in bottom position.
Engage square hole in spring on shaft with the hooked spring end to rear, in
line with starter spring stud. Work spring onto shaft, prying it to rear to
clear sprocket cover. Press all the way on squared shaft.

RA PD 315720
Figure 33—Removing Starter Crank Spring

(2) Hook end of spring in place on spring stud.
(3) Install foot starter crank (par. 55).

57. REMOVE TRANSMISSION (figs. 34 and 35).
a. Transmission and clutch are assembled in one unit and must be
removed and installed together. To make sure trouble is in transmission,
check clutch adjustment (par. 48) and transmission control linkage (par. 54)
before replacing a faulty unit.

RA PD 315721
A—TOOL BOX AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING
BOLT, WASHER AND NUT
B—BATTERY
C—BATTERY BOX REAR MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS,
FITTINGS AND NUTS
D—BATTERY BOX ASSEMBLY AND COVER

E—BATTERY BOX FRONT MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND
NUT
F—TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
G—FRONT CHAIN ADJUSTING SCREW
H—TRANSMISSION MOUNTING STUD NUTS AND WASHERS
J—REAR CHAIN OILER PIPE
K—REAR CHAIN GUARD FRONT MOUNTING BOLT AND
WASHERS
L—MUFFLER ASSEMBLY AND ATTACHING BOLT, WASHERS
AND NUTS
M—REAR BRAKE ROD ASSEMBLY, WASHER AND COTTER PIN
N—REAR CHAIN GUARD
O—REAR BRAKE CLEVIS PIN, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN
RA PD 315721B
Figure 34—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Right Side

b. Remove.
(1) Drop rear end of skid plate (par. 111).
(2) Remove front chain guard (par. 102).
(3) Remove oil bath air cleaner and mounting bracket (par. 80). Lower
bracket bolt also secures clutch cable tube to frame tube bracket on left
side.
(4) Remove engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. 65).
(5) Remove the two mounting screws and locks in engine case to free
inner front chain guard.
(6) Remove tool box from mounting bracket (par. 106). Remove bracket
from frame.
(7) Remove rear brake rod (par. 96).

(8) Remove rear drive chain (par. 63).
(9) Remove rear drive chain guard (par. 102). Remove rear chain oiler
pipe after disconnecting at oil pump.
(10) Remove battery box (par. 105).
(11) Remove nut, washer, and bolt securing clutch tube assembly bracket
to frame bracket on right side of vehicle. Disengage clutch operating cable
end from end of clutch release lever and remove cable and tube assembly.
(12) Remove gear shifter rod by disconnecting at hand shifter lever and
at transmission gear shifter lever.
(13) Remove the three transmission mounting stud nuts, then remove
lock washers and large plain washers (located under frame bracket), and lift
transmission sufficiently to permit removal of front chain adjusting screw.
(14) Loosen upper U‐bolts on ignition coil mounting, then remove the
lower U‐bolt nuts and shift coil on frame tube as far as possible toward the
front.
(15) Remove transmission and clutch assembly from vehicle by lifting
complete unit sufficiently to free mounting studs from frame bracket; then
rotate top of transmission backward about ¼ turn (fig. 34) and remove unit
from left side of frame (fig. 35).

58. INSTALL TRANSMISSION (figs. 34 and 35).
a. Install from Left Side. Working from left side of frame, tilt top of
transmission backward, and as unit passes into position, rotate top forward,
until unit is squarely in position and mounting studs pass through slots in
frame mounting bracket.
(1) Shift ignition coil mounting back into correct position and tighten U‐
bolt nuts.

RA PD 315722
Figure 35—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Left Side of
Vehicle
A—LEFT FOOTBOARD, CLUTCH PEDAL AND SIDEBAR
ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS
B—ENGINE SPROCKET, NUT, KEY AND FRONT CHAIN
C—INNER CHAIN GUARD MOUNTING SCREWS AND LOCKS
D—INNER CHAIN GUARD
E—TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
F—OUTER CHAIN GUARD
G—OUTER CHAIN GUARD REAR MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER,
SPRING, NUT AND COTTER PIN
H—AIR CLEANER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY
J—AIR CLEANER BRACKET UPPER MOUNTING BOLT NUTS
AND WASHERS

K—SPARK COIL LOWER MOUNTING U‐BOLT NUTS AND
WASHERS
L—CLUTCH CABLE AND HOUSING ASSEMBLY AND
MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS AND NUTS
M—GEAR SHIFTER ROD ASSEMBLY WITH ATTACHING BOLT,
WASHERS, PIN AND NUT
RA PD 315722B
Legend for Figure 35—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Left
Side of Vehicle

(2) Install front chain adjusting screw. Lift transmission to engage screw
in frame notch.
(3) Install large plain washers, lock washers, and nuts on the three
transmission mounting studs. Do not tighten.
(4) Install gear shifter rod by connecting to hand shifter lever and
transmission gear shifter lever.
(5) Install clutch operating cable and tube assembly. Connect cable end to
clutch release lever. Position tube assembly bracket to frame bracket and
install bolt, washer, and nut to hold in place.
(6) Install battery box (par. 105).
(7) Install rear drive chain guard (par. 102).
(8) Install rear drive chain (par. 63).
(9) Install rear brake rod (par. 96).
(10) Install tool box bracket and tool box (par. 106).
(11) Secure inner front chain guard to engine base by installing screw
locks and screws. After screws are tightened, drift edge of each lock into
screw slot for security.
(12) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. 65).
(13) If necessary, adjust front drive chain (par. 59).
(14) Securely tighten transmission mounting stud nuts.

(15) Install outer front chain guard cover (par. 102). Connect rear chain
oiler pipe to oil pump.
(16) Install air cleaner and mounting bracket, air hose, and connections
(par. 79).
(17) Lift skid plate into position and install two mounting bolts, lock
washers, and nuts.
(18) Check gear shifter control, and, if necessary, adjust linkage (par. 54).
(19) Check rear drive chain adjustment and adjust if necessary (par. 60).
(20) Check rear brake adjustment. If necessary, adjust rear brake linkage
(par. 96).
(21) Check clutch controls and adjust if necessary (par. 48).
(22) Before operating vehicle, see that transmission oil level is up to filler
opening (vehicle standing upright).

Section XV

CHAINS AND SPROCKETS

Paragraph
Adjust front chain 59
Adjust rear chain and aline rear wheel 60
Chain oilers 61
Replacement of front chain 62
Replacement of rear chain 63
Chain repair tool 64
Replacement of engine sprocket 65
Replacement of countershaft sprocket 66

59. ADJUST FRONT CHAIN (figs. 36, 37, and 38).
a. At the time front chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for correct
lubrication and, if necessary, adjust front chain oiler (par. 61).
b. Chains wear unevenly and some stretch may result, making tight and
loose sections. For this reason, engine must be turned and chain rotated to
position of least slack at the time adjustment is made.
c. A correctly adjusted front chain has ½–inch, or slightly more, free up‐
and‐down movement midway between sprockets, at inspection hole. Chain
must never be run taut (no slack at tightest point). Chain must never be
allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky, noisy action and/or strike the
chain guard.
d. Adjustment of front chain is made by shifting transmission on its
mounting base. This will affect adjustment of gear shifter control linkage,
clutch control linkage, and rear chain.
e. How to Adjust Front Chain.
(1) Remove inspection hole cover by removing screws and lifting cover
from front outer chain guard, exposing chain (fig. 36).

(2) Obtain tightest chain position by rotating chain to position of least
slack. Test amount of slack by lifting and depressing chain with finger. Use
a free up‐and‐down motion of the finger to make this test.
(3) Loosen the three transmission mounting stud nuts underneath
transmission mounting base. (It is not necessary to drop skid plate to reach
stud nuts (fig. 37).) Transmission can now be shifted on its mounting base
by means of adjusting screw, head of which protrudes through notch of
frame fitting, located at rear of transmission (fig. 38).

RA PD 310233
Figure 36—Front Chain Inspection Hole Cover Removed

(4) Turn adjusting screw clockwise (to the right) to move transmission
backward and tighten front chain. Turn adjusting screw counterclockwise
(to the left) to move transmission forward and loosen front chain.
(5) After moving transmission by means of adjusting screw, check front
chain adjustment; then securely tighten the three transmission mounting

stud nuts and again check chain adjustment, as tightening stud nuts
sometimes changes chain adjustment.
(6) After front chain adjustment has been made, securely tighten the three
transmission mounting stud nuts.
(7) Install front chain inspection hole cover and tighten screws.
(8) Check shifter lever control linkage adjustment (par. 54).
(9) Check clutch control linkage adjustment (par. 48).

RA PD 310234
Figure 37—Skid Plate Dropped to Show Location of Transmission
Mounting Nuts

RA PD 310235
Figure 38—Transmission Mounting Nuts and Chain Adjusting Screw

60. ADJUST REAR CHAIN AND ALINE REAR WHEEL (fig. 39).
a. In moving transmission backward on its mounting to tighten front
chain, the rear chain will be loosened. Rear chain must then be adjusted by
moving rear wheel backward. When rear wheel is moved either forward or
backward, adjustment of the rear wheel brake is affected.
b. When checking rear chain for slack midway between the sprockets,
turn wheel and rotate chain to position of least slack. Use free up‐and‐down
movement of finger to lift chain and depress it to determine tightest
position.

RA PD 310236
Figure 39—Brake Sleeve Nut

c. At position of least slack, a correctly adjusted rear chain has ½–inch, or
slightly more, free up‐and‐down movement midway between sprockets.
Chain must never be run taut (no slack at tightest point). Chain must never
be allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky operation and/or strike the
chain guard or other chassis parts.
d. At the time rear chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for correct
lubrication and if necessary, adjust rear chain oiler (par. 61).

e. Rear chain adjustment and rear wheel alinement are both made by
means of the rear wheel adjusting screws. Therefore, adjustment of either
the chain or the wheel alinement can affect adjustment of the other, making
it necessary to consider both adjustments at the same time.
(1) Remove rear axle nut and lock washer (right side of vehicle).
(2) Loosen brake sleeve nut enough to allow brake assembly to slide
backward or forward in frame mounting (fig. 39).
(3) Loosen the two (right and left side) rear wheel adjusting screw lock
nuts.
(4) Turn wheel adjusting screws clockwise (to right) to move wheel and
sprocket backward. This tightens chain. NOTE: If chain is too tight, turn
wheel adjusting screws counterclockwise (to left) so that wheel can be
shifted forward. This will loosen chain. Always turn the two wheel
adjusting screws an equal number of turns in order to keep wheel alined.
(5) Check correct alinement of wheel by noting that tire (not tire rim)
runs approximately midway between lower rear frame tubes at the point
where tubes join transmission mounting. It is desirable to have tire run
slightly closer (not more than 1⁄16 in.) to right than to left side lower tube. A
further check of alinement is observing that rear sprocket runs centrally in
chain. CAUTION: If rear wheel is not correctly alined, vehicle steering will
be affected, and sprockets will wear excessively on one side.
(6) With adjustment of chain and wheel alinement completed, securely
tighten wheel adjusting screw lock nuts, and brake sleeve nut: replace axle
lock washer and nut, tightening nut.
(7) Recheck adjustment of chain as tightening brake sleeve nut and axle
nut sometimes changes the chain adjustment.
(8) After tightening rear chain, rear brake may be found too tight. Check
and correct brake adjustment (par. 96).

61. CHAIN OILERS (fig. 40).
a. Both front and rear chains are automatically lubricated by engine oil
pumps. Chain oilers are adjustable and may need occasional readjustment to
meet lubrication requirements of varied operating conditions. Chains under

most operating conditions require a very small amount of oil; therefore,
chain oilers require very fine adjustment to supply just enough oil without
waste.
b. When adjusting chain oilers, it is advisable to add or remove only one
thin washer at a time and inspect chain again after vehicle has run
approximately 100 miles, to determine whether or not further adjustment is
necessary.
c. If inspection of front chain through inspection hole reveals that chain is
not getting enough oil, adjust front chain oiler as follows:
(1) Add thin (0.002–inch thick) washer under head of front chain oiler
adjusting screw (fig. 40). Do not remove any washers already under head of
screw.
(2) To check results, refer to step b above.
d. Evidence of too much oil on front chain requires cutting down on
chain oiler.

RA PD 310237
Figure 40—Chain Oilers

(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002–inch thick) washer from under
head of front chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40).
(2) To check results, refer to step b above.
e. If inspection reveals that rear chain is not getting enough oil, and that
oil pipe end is open, is not bent, and is directed on chain; then the rear chain

oiler must be adjusted.
(1) Adjust oiler by adding thin (0.002–inch thick) washer under head of
rear chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40). Do not remove any washers
already under head of screw.
(2) To check results, refer to step b above.
f. Evidence of too much oil on rear chain (supplied by oiler) requires
cutting down on chain oiler.
(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002–inch thick) washer from under
head of rear chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40).
(2) To check results, refer to step b above.
g. At 1000–mile intervals, loosen both front and rear chain oiler adjusting
screws (fig. 40) two turns each. Do not remove screws. Start and idle
engine 1 minute, then tighten screws firmly, but do not force. This operation
serves to flush oiler control valves and rear chain oiler pipe.

62. REPLACEMENT OF FRONT CHAIN.
a. A new or original duplex front chain is endless, not provided with
connecting link, and engine sprocket must be removed in order to remove
or replace chain.
b. Remove.
(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. 102).
(2) Remove engine sprocket (par. 65). Chain can now be lifted off clutch
sprocket.
c. Install. When installing a new front chain and/or sprocket, it may be
necessary to shift transmission ahead in order to get chain on (par. 59 e).
(1) Clean engine shaft taper and sprocket hole.
(2) Place chain on clutch sprocket teeth and install sprocket (par. 65).
(3) Check chain adjustment (par. 59).
(4) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102).

63. REPLACEMENT OF REAR CHAIN (fig. 41).
a. Remove. Support vehicle on rear stand. With transmission in “N”
(neutral) position, turn rear wheel until chain connecting link is located on
rear sprocket teeth, about straight back from axle.
(1) Using pliers, lift split end of connecting link spring clip out of link
pin notch, taking care not to damage spring clip. Remove spring clip from
other link pin notch.
(2) Pull off link side plate and push link out of chain ends. Replace
connecting link and spring clip in one end of chain to prevent its loss.

RA PD 310238
Figure 41—Rear Drive Chain and Connecting Link

(3) Pull on lower half of chain, guiding upper part while it rotates around
countershaft sprocket, until removed. If a new rear chain is to be installed,
one end can be linked to the upper half end of old chain and can be pulled
onto countershaft sprocket as old chain is removed.
b. Install. When installing a new rear chain and/or countershaft sprocket,
it may be necessary to set rear wheel ahead in order to get chain on (par.
60).
(1) Start end of chain over countershaft sprocket teeth, using starter crank
to turn sprocket. After chain end has reached front half of sprocket, it will
be necessary to guide end under sprocket and out of sprocket cover. Center
chain so that ends engage rear sprocket teeth, back of the axle.
(2) Install connecting link, side plate and spring clip. See that open end of
spring clip is to the rear with regard to chain travel (like the end of an
arrow). If original spring clip is bent or damaged, use a new one.
(3) Adjust rear chain (par. 60).
(4) Check rear brake adjustment (par. 96).

64. CHAIN REPAIR TOOL (fig 42).
a. Damaged or broken chain links can be replaced with connecting
(repair) links after bad links have been removed. To remove damaged or
broken link, push out chain side plate pins with the chain repair tool (41–T–
3320). Front chain is a double row of duplex chain; rear chain is a single
row chain. The chain tool furnished in the tool kit is designed to
accommodate both. To put a connecting link in the front chain, it will be
necessary to remove front chain guard (par. 102).

RA PD 310239
Figure 42—Chain Repair Tool in Use

b. When connecting (repair) links have been fitted to chain, make sure
that spring clips are correctly and securely locked on link pin ends.

65. REPLACEMENT OF ENGINE SPROCKET.
a. Remove.
(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. 102).
(2) Remove engine sprocket nut (right‐hand thread). It will be necessary
to strike wrench with a hammer to loosen nut.
(3) Give flat surface of engine sprocket, near outer edge, a light but sharp
rap with a hammer, being careful not to strike and damage sprocket teeth.
Take care not to lose sprocket shaft key.
b. Install. If new sprocket is being installed, it may be necessary to shift
transmission forward to get chain to fit on sprockets (par. 59).
(1) Thoroughly clean engine shaft taper and see that key is in place.
Clean sprocket taper hole, fit front chain on sprocket teeth, and rotate chain
until keyway in sprocket lines up with key in engine shaft. Slip sprocket
onto engine shaft, install nut, and tighten securely. Strike wrench with a
hammer to make sure sprocket nut is very tight.

(2) Install front outer chain guard (par. 102).

66. REPLACEMENT OF COUNTERSHAFT SPROCKET.
a. Remove.
(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. 55).
(2) Remove starter crank spring (par. 56).
(3) Remove countershaft sprocket cover (par. 52).
(4) Bend back extension of sprocket nut lock.
(5) Remove sprocket retaining nut. It will be necessary to strike wrench
with a hammer to loosen nut.
(6) Give sprocket a light but sharp rap with a hammer near outer edge,
being careful not to strike the sprocket teeth, and remove sprocket from
shaft taper. Do not lose the two sprocket shaft keys.
b. Install.
(1) Clean shaft taper and taper hole in countershaft sprocket. Install the
two keys.
(2) Install sprocket on shaft. Place rear chain on sprocket before
installing sprocket cover.
(3) Examine nut lock and, if badly damaged, use a new one.
(4) Install sprocket retaining nut. Tighten by striking wrench with a
hammer. NOTE: This nut must be tight. Bend up extension of nut lock
against side of nut.
(5) It will be easier to install starter crank spring at this step to avoid
interference with sprocket cover.
(6) Install sprocket cover.
(7) Install starter crank.

Section XVI

FUEL SYSTEM

Paragraph
General 67
Carburetor adjustment 68
Throttle control wire adjustment 69
Carburetor removal 70
Carburetor installation 71
Fuel strainer 72
Carburetor bowl cleaning 73
Fuel pipe 74

67. GENERAL.
a. Carburetor is of the side‐outlet, plain‐tube type with a fixed venturi.
Fuel feed is by gravity from tank above. Carburetor has two manual
controls: the throttle, which is operated by the right handle bar grip, and the
choke, which is operated by a lever on the carburetor itself. The high speed
fuel supply is governed by a fixed (non‐adjustable) jet. The idling to
medium speed (30 mph) fuel supply is governed by an adjustable (low
speed) needle valve located on rear side of carburetor body.

68. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT (fig. 43).
a. Before attempting to adjust carburetor to correct faulty engine
performance, attention should be given other items which have a direct
bearing on and can affect carburetor adjustment as well as engine
performance.
(1) Inspect fuel tank cap and make sure air vent is not plugged.
(2) See that throttle control adjustment is correct (par. 69).
(3) See that spark control adjustment is correct (par. 88).
(4) Drain and flush carburetor bowl (par. 73).

(5) Drain and flush fuel strainer (par. 72).
(6) Inspect air cleaner to see that passage of air through cleaner is not
restricted by oil level being too high in oil cup, or by an excessive
accumulation of dirt in filter elements (par. 76).
(7) Check manifold packing nuts and carburetor mounting screws for
tightness.
(8) See that spark plugs are clean and that gaps are adjusted between
0.025 inch to 0.030 inch. If condition of spark plugs is questionable, install
new ones.
(9) Check adjustment of valve tappets (par. 43).
(10) Check compression of both cylinders (par. 29 b.) (1)
(11) Check condition and adjustment of circuit breaker points (par. 84).
(12) Check ignition to battery wiring connections (diagram fig. 48).
(13) See that battery is not entirely discharged by turning on lights
(tactical situation permitting) and observing brilliancy.
b. A carburetor, once correctly adjusted, should require little, if any,
readjusting. At most, it should not be necessary to adjust the low speed
needle more than one or two notches either way to correct mixture to meet
changes in weather conditions.
c. Low Speed Adjusting Needle (figs. 43 and 44). Adjustment of this
needle valve controls only idling and low speed (up to approximately 30
mph) fuel mixture. Turn needle valve down (to right) to make mixture
leaner. Back out (to left) needle valve to make mixture richer. Needle valve
is held in any desired position by a spring‐and‐ball plunger which engages
notches in the needle adjusting screw.
d. Complete Readjustment of Carburetor. A carburetor that is badly
out of adjustment, and/or a new carburetor just installed, must be adjusted
as follows:
(1) Turn the low speed needle valve all the way down (to right).
(2) Back needle valve out (to left) about three full turns. With needle
valve in this position, engine will start, but mixture will probably be too

rich.
(3) Start engine as follows: After choke lever has been moved to normal
open running position and engine is normally hot, correct adjustment of
needle valve by turning needle valve down (to right) one notch at a time
until mixture becomes so lean that engine misses, and is inclined to stop:
then back out (to left) needle valve 5 to 10 notches, or until engine fires
regularly with spark advanced and throttle closed (or as nearly closed as it
can be set and still have engine running at idling speed).
(4) Adjust throttle lever stop screw (fig. 43) as necessary to make engine
idle at proper speed with throttle in fully closed position. Turning stop
screw to the right makes engine idle faster. Turning stop screw to the left
makes engine idle slower. Do not idle engine at the slowest possible speed,
because an extremely slow idling adjustment causes hard engine starting.
Changing idling speed with throttle stop screw is likely to change the low
speed fuel mixture to some extent: therefore, it will be necessary to again
check and correct the low speed needle valve adjustment (step (3) above).
(5) Engine starting and all‐round carburetion will be improved with low
speed fuel adjustment slightly rich, rather than extremely lean.

RA PD 310240
Figure 43—Throttle in Fully Closed Position

RA PD 310241
Figure 44—Throttle in Fully Open Position

69. THROTTLE CONTROL WIRE ADJUSTMENT (figs. 43 and 44).
a. Carburetor throttle is opened and closed by means of the right handle
bar grip, operating a control wire (within a housing) which connects to the
throttle lever. Adjustment for full opening and closing of the throttle to
correspond with full inward and outward motion of the handle bar grip is
made at the junction of the control wire end and the throttle lever
connection.
b. Adjust Fully Closed Throttle (fig. 43). See that there is about 1 inch
distance between end of control wire housing and throttle lever when in
fully closed position, so that housing end does not interfere with forward

movement of throttle lever. If adjustment of control wire housing is
necessary, refer to paragraph 101. Proceed with closed throttle adjustment.
(1) Loosen control wire clamp screw in connector block.
(2) Turn right handle bar grip outward as far as it will go: then turn it
inward slightly. Holding throttle grip in this position, move throttle lever
forward against its stop (closed position) and secure control wire in
connector block with clamp screw. Check closing of throttle after tightening
control wire set screw. If necessary, reset the control wire in the connector
block until throttle is closed with full outward grip movement.
c. Adjust Fully Open Throttle (fig. 44). Follow instructions under step
b above, then:
(1) Turn right handle bar grip inward as far as it will go and see that
throttle lever is against its stop in fully open position. If throttle does not
open fully when grip is turned inward, reset the control wire in the
connector block to correct the adjustment.

70. CARBURETOR REMOVAL.
a. Remove Carburetor for Replacement Only.
(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.
(2) Loosen connector block clamp screw and disconnect throttle control
wire at throttle lever.
(3) Disconnect fuel feed pipe at strainer nipple.
(4) Loosen air cleaner hose clamp at carburetor air intake fitting, and
remove four screws and air intake fitting from carburetor.
(5) Remove the three mounting bolts (from right side of vehicle) which
secure carburetor to manifold flange. CAUTION: Take care not to damage
or lose gaskets found between carburetor flange and manifold flange,
and/or ½–inch thick steel spacer fitted between carburetor and manifold on
some models.
(6) Remove carburetor.
(7) Remove fuel strainer assembly from carburetor bowl nipple.

71. CARBURETOR INSTALLATION.
a. When installing carburetor be sure to fit the ½–inch thick steel spacer
(if one was originally fitted) between carburetor and manifold flanges, with
two gaskets on one side and one gasket on the other side. Later models have
a longer manifold neck, extending carburetor farther to the left, away from
cylinders, and do not need the spacer.
(1) Install fuel strainer assembly on bowl nipple. Leave coupling nut
loose until after fuel pipe is connected.

RA PD 310242
Figure 45—Removing Fuel Strainer

(2) To install carburetor on manifold, locate carburetor flange and two
gaskets (½–inch steel spacer and gaskets if originally fitted) to aline with
holes in manifold flange, and insert and securely tighten the three
carburetor mounting screws. Use a 7⁄16–inch socket wrench, or a large
screwdriver, to securely tighten these screws. NOTE: If carburetor manifold
is loose in manifold packing nuts (carburetor can be lifted and manifold
turns in packing nuts), tighten manifold nuts securely, using manifold
wrench (41–W–1570–10).
(3) Insert carburetor air intake fitting into end of air hose and mount
fitting on carburetor with the four screws. Tighten air hose clamp.
(4) Connect fuel pipe to fuel strainer nipple by tightening the union nut
and also the strainer union nut on bowl nipple.
(5) Attach throttle control wire to throttle lever connector block and
adjust (par. 69).
(6) Open fuel supply valve and observe for leaks.
(7) Adjust carburetor (par. 68).

72. FUEL STRAINER (fig. 45).
a. Cleaning.
(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.
(2) Unscrew cap from bottom of strainer body.
(3) Lift strainer screen element with cork washer out of cap and clean
thoroughly. Remove any dirt or sediment collected in cap. NOTE: If
compressed air is not available for cleaning, gasoline from the fuel pipe can
be used for cleaning screen and cap.
(4) Install one cork washer in bottom of cap, set strainer screen element
in place, and locate the other cork washer over screen element. Turn cap
with screen element and washers onto bottom of strainer body, handtight.

b. Remove Strainer Assembly.
(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.
(2) Disconnect fuel feed pipe at strainer body nipple.
(3) Remove filter assembly from carburetor bowl nipple. It will be noted
that coupling nut is an integral part of the filter body assembly.
c. Install Strainer Assembly.
(1) Install fuel strainer assembly on carburetor bowl nipple. Leave
coupling nut loose until after fuel pipe is connected.
(2) Connect fuel pipe to strainer body nipple and tighten union nut.
Strainer coupling nut can now be tightened on bowl nipple.
(3) Open fuel supply valve. Inspect fuel pipe and coupling nuts for leaks.

73. CARBURETOR BOWL CLEANING.
a. Water from fuel, water moisture, and dirt entering air cleaner will settle
in bottom of carburetor bowl and will interfere with engine starting and
carburetion. At periodic intervals bowl must be drained. NOTE: Before
draining and flushing bowl, clean fuel strainer (par. 72).
(1) Support vehicle on jiffy (side) stand.
(2) Shut off fuel supply valve.
(3) Remove bowl drain screw. Let fuel, water, and dirt run out of bowl.
With drain screw still removed, open fuel supply valve (turn to left) and
leave open only a few seconds, to allow fresh gasoline to flush out bowl.
(4) Replace bowl drain screw, taking care to avoid thread crossing. Set
screw snug, but not tight enough to strip the threads.

74. FUEL PIPE.
a. Remove.
(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.
(2) Remove pipe union nut from tank nipple. Remove pipe after
disconnecting union nut from fuel strainer body nipple.

b. Install. Fuel pipe must be installed without putting undue twist or
strain on pipe or end fittings. Therefore, bend and/or shape pipe to “fit”
between nipple connections before replacing and drawing up on union nuts.
(1) Connect lower end of pipe to fuel filter body nipple. Do not tighten
nut.
(2) Connect upper end of pipe to tank nipple. Securely tighten this nut.
Next, tighten union nut on strainer body nipple.

Section XVII

INTAKE AND EXHAUST SYSTEM

Paragraph
Description 75
Air cleaner 76
Hose and carburetor fitting 77
Remove air cleaner 78
Install air cleaner 79
Replacement of air cleaner mounting bracket 80
Exhaust system 81

75. DESCRIPTION.
a. Intake System. The air intake system consists of oil bath air cleaner,
connecting air hose, and carburetor intake hose fitting. This system is
located on left side of vehicle.
b. Exhaust System. The exhaust system consists of muffler and tailpiece
assembly, front exhaust pipe assembly, and rear exhaust pipe. Exhaust pipe
ends are a slip fit in cylinder exhaust ports.

76. AIR CLEANER (figs. 46 and 47).
a. General. Air cleaner should not be submerged in water, nor should
high‐pressure stream be directed into cleaner louvers (where air enters on
rear of body) when cleaning vehicle. Either water or dirt entering air cleaner
in excessive quantities will raise the oil level in oil cup and choke off proper
air supply to carburetor.
b. Service. With vehicle in normal use on hard‐surfaced roads, clean and
refill air cleaner oil cup with engine oil (seasonal grade) at least each time
engine oil tank is drained and refilled. CAUTION: Service more frequently
under dusty conditions; daily under extremely dusty conditions. Check oil
supply daily.

(1) Hold oil cup with one hand and release (unlatch) oil cup retaining
spring clips to remove oil cup.
(2) If oil in cup is clean, with no signs of dirt and grit in oil or cup, but
the oil level is below the indicated level mark, add engine oil (seasonal
grade) to bring level up to mark. NOTE: If oil and cup are dirty, empty out
oil and wash out cup with dry‐cleaning solvent. Refill with clean engine oil
(seasonal grade) to indicated level mark.
(3) Before installing oil cup make sure that the oil cup gasket is in place
and in good condition.
(4) Check baffle plate thumb screw for tightness.

RA PD 310243
Figure 46—Air Cleaner Oil Cup Removed

(5) Install oil cup, making sure that retaining spring clips are fully
engaged in lip of oil cup and hold oil cup securely to cleaner body.
(6) Oil bath air cleaners on earlier models are of “round” type, oil cup
being secured to body with a metal clamp band and thumb screw. When oil
cup is removed on this type of cleaner, the baffle plate will come out with
the cup. Make sure that baffle plate is correctly installed and that gasket is
in place when installing cup.
c. Maintenance (fig. 47). The rectangular‐type oil bath air cleaner is
provided with two filter elements, retained in filter body by means of the
baffle plate. If daily check reveals excessive accumulation of dirt and grit in
oil and cup, filter elements must be removed and cleaned. NOTE: Check
several times daily under extremely dusty or sandy conditions.
(1) Hold oil cup with one hand and release (unlatch) oil cup retaining
spring clips; remove cup.
(2) Unscrew baffle plate thumb screw and remove baffle plate.
(3) Filter elements may “bind” in cleaner body. If so, rap side of body
with hand to loosen them; or, if necessary, withdraw elements from body
with pliers or a hooked wire.
(4) Check for presence and condition of gasket above the two filter
elements (in filter body); also for oil cup gasket.

RA PD 310244
Figure 47—Air Cleaner, Disassembled

(5) Clean both filter elements thoroughly in dry‐cleaning solvent. Allow
elements to dry out (use air hose if available).
(6) Clean oil cup and refill to indicated level mark. Use clean engine oil
(seasonal grade).
(7) Dip one screen surface of each filter element about ½ inch into oil in
the oil cup (to “oil wet” filter pack). Install the two filter elements, baffle

plate, and oil cup immediately after “oil wetting” the filter elements. Make
sure gaskets are in place. NOTE: Do not add more oil to oil cup after
elements have been dipped into it, because excess oil absorbed by elements
will drip back into oil cup, bringing level back to normal.
(8) Round‐type oil bath air cleaner used on earlier models does not have
removable filter element. Complete cleaner body must be removed from
vehicle, immersed and agitated in cleaning solvent to wash out dirt. After
cleaning, allow filter element to dry (use air hose if available), then apply a
few squirts of engine oil to inside of cleaner element, using oilcan. Refill
cup, replace baffle plate and cup, securely tightening clamp band thumb
screw.

77. HOSE AND CARBURETOR FITTING.
a. Remove. Carburetor intake and hose connection must be removed
from carburetor to remove and/or install air hose.
(1) Loosen screws in the two hose clamps.
(2) Remove four screws retaining carburetor air intake fitting. Remove
carburetor fitting from end of hose, and pull hose off air cleaner body
connection.
b. Install. Before installing air hose, inspect for breaks or faulty
condition that might prevent airtight seal between air cleaner and carburetor
fitting.
(1) Install one end of hose on carburetor fitting. Do not tighten clamp
screw.
(2) Install other end of hose on air cleaner connection. Do not tighten
clamp screw.
(3) Install carburetor fitting. Securely tighten the four screws. Next,
center air hose between carburetor fitting and air cleaner connection and
securely tighten hose clamp screws.

78. REMOVE AIR CLEANER.

a. Loosen hose clamp screw at air cleaner body connection and remove
two nuts and gear‐toothed washers from bolts securing air cleaner assembly
to frame bracket. NOTE: Gear‐toothed lock washers are also used under
heads of the two mounting bolts. Withdraw cleaner from end of air hose.
b. The same procedure applies to round‐type air cleaners used on earlier
models.

79. INSTALL AIR CLEANER.
a. Engage air cleaner hose connection in end of hose and mount cleaner
assembly on frame bracket with two bolts, gear‐toothed lock washers, and
nuts. Securely tighten mounting nuts. NOTE: The plated (whitened)
mounting bolts, four gear‐toothed lock washers, and bolt nuts must effect a
ground connection between bracket and filter mounting to insure adequate
radio bonding. Tighten air hose clamp screw at cleaner body connection.
b. The same procedure applies to round‐type air cleaners used on earlier
models.

80. REPLACEMENT OF AIR CLEANER MOUNTING BRACKET.
a. Air cleaner mounting bracket and air cleaner can be removed or
installed as an assembly.
b. Remove.
(1) Loosen hose clamp connection at air cleaner body.
(2) Disconnect battery ground wire. This prevents shorting battery when
removing cleaner bracket clamp bolt.
(3) Remove the two upper cleaner bracket frame clamp bolts.
(4) Remove lower mounting bolt. Cleaner lower bracket mounting and
clutch cable tube mounting are secured to frame bracket by the same
whitened radio bonding bolt, gear‐toothed lock washers, and nut. Remove
nut and drop bolt to free cleaner bracket.
c. Install.
(1) Engage air hose and cleaner body connection.

(2) Attach lower bracket first. Locate cleaner bracket so that hole lines up
with bolt holes in frame bracket and clutch cable tube mounting. Pass
whitened radio bonding bolt upward through bracket hole, install
shakeproof lock washer, and securely tighten nut.
(3) Attach bracket to the two upper frame clips. Tighten the clamp bolt
nuts.
(4) Connect battery ground wire.
(5) Tighten air hose clamp screw at cleaner connection.

81. EXHAUST SYSTEM.
a. Remove Muffler Assembly.
(1) Support vehicle on rear stand.
(2) Remove bolt from end of hanger bracket on left side of vehicle, and
remove bolt from muffler clamp and skid plate bracket on right side of
vehicle. Drop skid plate.
(3) Loosen nut and bolt on clamp which secures front end of muffler at
exhaust pipe connection (clamp is attached to muffler).
(4) Remove muffler rear hanger bracket bolt nut. Pull muffler assembly
free from exhaust pipe connection.
b. Install Muffler Assembly.
(1) Engage muffler pipe and exhaust pipe at muffler pipe clamp
connection. Do not tighten clamp bolt nut as yet.
(2) Attach muffler rear hanger bracket to frame bracket bolt, installing
lock washer, and tightening nut. NOTE: It may be advisable to loosen
hanger bracket on muffler so that muffler can be lined up for front end
connection.
(3) Tighten muffler and exhaust pipe clamp bolt nut and rear hanger nut.
(4) Raise skid plate into position and install right side mounting bolt
which secures muffler front bracket and skid plate bracket to frame clip.
Tighten all mounting nuts.
c. Remove Exhaust Pipes.

(1) Refer to step a (1), (2), (3) above.
(2) Remove right side footboard and brake pedal assembly as follows:
Loosen footboard rear support stud nut, remove front support stud nut, and
pull footboard outward to free end of safety guard. Remove bolt which
secures front exhaust pipe clamp, and remove nut from rear support rod,
freeing stop light switch and rear end of footboard sidebar. Remove nut
from front support rod, and drop footboard and brake foot pedal assembly
to provide clearance for exhaust pipe removal. Disengage rear exhaust pipe
at cylinder port, at same time prying and pulling front exhaust pipe forward
and downward to free from cylinder port. Both exhaust pipes can now be
worked downward and removed from vehicle as an assembly.
d. Install Exhaust Pipes.
(1) Position exhaust pipe (front and rear) assembly, working it into
position so that front pipe end slips into cylinder port; then, pry and force
rear pipe end into rear cylinder port.
(2) Mount footboard, brake foot pedal, and sidebar assembly on support
rods, installing washer and nut on front support rod.
(3) Position and mount stop light switch on rear support rod. See that
spring and operating control wire exert a straight pull on switch plunger
when foot pedal is operated.
(4) Install bolt, washer, and nut which secure front exhaust pipe clamp to
footboard sidebar.
(5) To attach safety guard to sidebar, pull front end of footboard away
from sidebar, line up holes in sidebar and safety guard end, then pass
footboard support stud through both pieces, and secure with washer and nut.
(6) Tighten footboard rear support stud nut.
(7) To complete installation, follow procedure outlined in step b (1)
through (4) above.

10—INSTRUMENT PANEL TERMINAL.
12—BATTERY POSITIVE.
13—BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND).
18—TERMINAL JUNCTION ON FRAME.
26—IGNITION—LIGHT SWITCH.
28—SPARK COIL.
33—CIRCUIT BREAKER.

34—COIL TO TIMER WIRE.
*A—RADIO BOND, COIL TO TIMER WIRE.
*B—RADIO BOND, COIL TO ENGINE.
*C—NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER.
*D—SHIELDED COIL TO TIMER WIRE.
*E—SPARK PLUG SUPPRESSORS.
RA PD 315723
Figure 48—Ignition to Battery Wiring Diagram

Section XVIII

IGNITION SYSTEM

Paragraph
Description 82
Spark plugs 83
Circuit breaker points 84
Condenser 85
Circuit breaker and timer assembly 86
Coil to timer wire 87
Adjust spark control 88
Spark coil 89

82. DESCRIPTION.
a. The ignition system differs from that of the conventional automotive
types in that it has no distributor. A circuit breaker alone is used. Both coil
high‐tension winding ends lead directly to both spark plugs. Thus both
plugs spark at the same time, one cylinder being on compression stroke
while the other cylinder is on exhaust stroke.

83. SPARK PLUGS.
a. Defective spark plugs are indicated by engine missing, overheating,
knocking excessively, and lacking normal power.
b. Type. Spark plugs are medium heat range, manufacturer’s (H–D) No.
3.
c. Cleaning. Do not take plugs apart for cleaning. Use the sandblast
cleaner method.
d. Point Adjustment. Bend electrode located in plug base to adjust point
gap 0.025 inch to 0.030 inch.
e. Replacement. Use spark plug wrench (41–W–3334) to install plugs,
using new gaskets. Never draw a cool plug up tight in a hot cylinder head,

rather turn down snug and wait l/2 minute until plug base is warm: then
tighten securely. CAUTION: Take care not to cross‐thread when installing
spark plug.

84. CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS (fig. 49).
a. Circuit breaker lever is insulated from ground and connects to primary
wire binding post by means of a “pig‐tail” wire. Stationary point is
grounded to timer base and is movable in order to adjust circuit breaker
points. Circuit breaker points that are burned or pitted should be renewed or
dressed with a clean fine‐cut, contact point file. The file should not be used
on other metals and should not be allowed to become greasy or dirty.
CAUTION: Never use emery cloth to clean points. Contact surfaces, after
considerable use, may not appear bright and smooth, but this is not
necessarily an indication that they are not functioning satisfactorily.
b. Remove Breaker Lever.
(1) To disconnect condenser terminal, remove nut from end of condenser
and remove gear‐toothed washer, plain washer, and the brass terminal strip.
Do not remove fiber washer and plain washer located back of brass terminal
strip on condenser terminal post.

RA PD 310248
Figure 49—Circuit Breaker Points Removed

(2) Bend brass terminal strip down and remove binding nut which
secures brass terminal strip and breaker lever “pig‐tail” to primary wire
binding post.
(3) Compress breaker lever spring at end of lever, disengaging spring.
CAUTION: Do not lose spring. Release and remove lever from insulated
pivot post.

c. Remove Adjustable Contact Point.
(1) Remove the two lock screws and washer plate, securing adjustable
contact point assembly to timer base. Point assembly is free to be lifted off
lever pivot stud.
d. Install Adjustable Contact Point.
(1) Install contact point assembly, replacing washer plate and the two
lock screws. Do not tighten lock screws until circuit breaker points are
adjusted (step f below).
e. Install Breaker Lever.
(1) Install brass terminal strip on primary wire binding post.
(2) Connect end of brass terminal strip to condenser terminal post. Install
flat washer, gear‐toothed washer, and nut.
(3) Install breaker lever on pivot post insulated bearing.
(4) Install breaker lever spring. Make sure that ends of spring are retained
correctly.
(5) NOTE: Keep breaker lever cam very lightly greased.
f. Adjusting Circuit Breaker Points (fig. 51).
(1) Correct point gap is 0.022 inch. Circuit breaker point faces must seat
squarely against each other. If bent, square up and aline by bending contact
plate. Turn timer breaker cam until breaker lever fiber is located on highest
point of cam.
(2) With the adjustable point lock screws loose, shift the adjustable point
plate to obtain a 0.022–inch gap between the circuit breaker points.
Measure gap with an accurate thickness gage before retightening lock
screws, and again recheck point gap after tightening the lock screws.
NOTE: Wrong circuit breaker point gap affects ignition timing.

85. CONDENSER.
a. The condenser is connected in parallel with the circuit breaker points,
one of its terminals being grounded (for the adjustable point) to the timer
base by means of the mounting screw, the other terminal making connection

with the circuit breaker lever (for the lever point) by means of the lever
“pig‐tail.”
b. Remove.
(1) Unlatch circuit breaker cover retainer and remove cover.
(2) Remove nut from end of condenser and remove gear‐toothed washer,
plain washer, and the brass terminal strip. NOTE: A small plain washer and
a large fiber washer are located behind brass terminal strip.
(3) Remove screw which secures condenser to timer base. Remove
condenser.

RA PD 310249
Figure 50—Circuit Breaker (Timer), Disassembled

c. Install.
(1) Mount condenser on timer housing. Install lock washer and screw.
Make sure small plain washer and large fiber washer are in place on
condenser end terminal screw before connecting the brass terminal strip.
(2) Connect brass terminal strip to condenser. Replace plain washer, gear‐
toothed washer and terminal nut.

(3) Install circuit breaker cover.

86. CIRCUIT BREAKER AND TIMER ASSEMBLY (figs. 50 and 51).
a. When the circuit breaker timer shaft and base assembly must be
replaced due to excessive wear in timer shaft bearing, sheared worm gear
pin, and/or worn or damaged worm gear, engine ignition must be retimed.
Ignition timing for the V‐type twin engine is difficult and should be
attempted only by experienced personnel.
b. Remove (fig. 50). Before the timer shaft and base assembly can be
removed, the circuit breaker timer head assembly must be removed. NOTE:
If the timer head only, or timer wire, is to be replaced, it is not necessary to
remove timer shaft and base assembly, and thus throw engine ignition out of
time.
(1) Remove timer head cover.
(2) Unlatch cover retainer ends from holes in the timer head and remove.
(3) Disconnect spark control wire at timer lever.
(4) Lift the timer head assembly off base. The head seating tension
(ground) spring (underneath shaft base) is also free, and can now be
removed. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect timer to coil wire from
timer head terminal post, unless head or wire is being replaced.
(5) Remove the two timer base mounting screws and lock washers. It will
be noted that one screw grounds the timer to coil wire shielding.
(6) Timer shaft and base assembly can now be lifted out of engine gear
case cover. Take care not to damage or misplace base gasket.
c. Install Timer Shaft and Base Assembly and Timing Ignition (fig.
51). This calls for retiming engine ignition as follows: (NOTE: Circuit
breaker cam turns in clockwise direction):
(1) Unscrew and raise front cylinder inlet valve spring cover, using tappet
wrench (41–W–3617).
(2) Turn engine in direction in which it runs until valve tappet indicates
front cylinder is on compression stroke (directly after front cylinder intake
valve closes).

A—FLYWHEEL TIMING MARK IN CRANKCASE INSPECTION
HOLE.
B—COVER RETAINER.
C—CIRCUIT BREAKER LEVER.
D—CIRCUIT BREAKER CAM.
E—CONDENSER.
F—SPARK CONTROL WIRE HOUSING.
G—SPARK CONTROL WIRE.
H—SPARK LEVER QUADRANT.
J—SPARK LEVER.
K—TIMER HEAD ADJUSTING BAND SCREW.

L—TIMER HEAD ADJUSTING BAND.
M—MARK ON BREAKER CAM AND MARKS ON TIMER HEAD
AND HAND INDICATING ORIGINAL FACTORY TIMING.
N—CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS.
O—ADJUSTABLE CONTACT POINT PLATE.
P—ADJUSTABLE CONTACT POINT LOCK SCREWS.
Q—CIRCUIT BREAKER LEVER PIVOT (INSULATED).
R—BREAKER LEVER SPRING.
RA PD 310281
Figure 51—Circuit Breaker Marks and Flywheel Mark Correctly Alined

(3) Remove plug from timing inspection hole in left‐side crankcase.
(4) Continue turning engine slowly until flywheel timing mark is in
center of inspection hole (fig. 51). Do not turn engine further.
(5) Install paper gasket and timer head tension (ground) spring on timer
shaft base assembly. Make sure bent ends of tension spring are facing
downward (away from timer base).
(6) Insert timer shaft and base assembly all the way down into place in
timing gear case cover, trying to locate mark on small end of breaker cam in
position shown in figure 51. Do not install base mounting screws as yet.
(7) Install timer head assembly so that spark control lever is within the
advance and retard quadrant (fig. 51). NOTE: Do not install cover retainer
until later.
(8) Fully advance spark lever (push inward toward engine) and observe
how closely mark on breaker cam lines up with breaker lever fiber. If mark
does not line up, lift timer base and turn shaft gear so its engagement with
its driving gear is changed one tooth. Check again according to breaker cam
mark and breaker lever fiber. Repeat this procedure until gear engagement
is obtained which closely alines cam mark and breaker lever fiber.
(9) See that timer base is turned so that timer to coil wire is toward rear
of engine.

(10) Install timer base screws and lock washers. Make sure that timer to
coil wire shielding is grounded under head of screw farthest away from
engine (fig. 52). Securely tighten screws.
(11) Install timer head on base and secure with ground spring and cover
retainer. Be sure ground spring is in its proper place so that when cover
retainer ends are fitted through holes in the timer head, they will also fit into
spring locating notches. It will be necessary to press ground spring upward
under timer base to engage retainer ends in the spring notches. NOTE: If
cover retainer ends do not engage ground spring notches, spring will have
no tension and timer head will be loose on its base. Circuit breaker points
and condenser are electrically grounded through timer base, and ground
spring holds the head and base in close contact, thus assuring a good
ground.
(12) Connect spark control wire and timer lever and adjust (par. 88).
(13) Engine is now timed according to original factory setting, providing
mark on side of timer head and hole in head adjusting band are still in
alinement, and circuit breaker point gap is 0.022 inch. Even though all
ignition timing marks are in perfect alinement, as outlined in the foregoing
instructions, it is advisable to accurately check ignition timing (step d
following).
d. Recommended Recheck of Ignition Timing (fig. 51). Even though
all ignition timing marks are in perfect alinement, as when engine was
originally timed, ignition timing may change somewhat after engine has
been in service for a while, due to normal wear and seating of the various
moving parts that can affect ignition timing. Since accurate ignition timing
is the first essential to good engine performance, it is advisable to check
ignition timing on new vehicle after first 1,500 miles of service, and at each
2,000 miles thereafter.
(1) See that circuit breaker points are adjusted for correct gap of 0.022
inch (par. 84 f).
(2) Advance timer lever fully (toward engine).
(3) Turn engine in direction in which it runs until front cylinder is on
compression stroke, and continue to turn it ahead slowly until narrow timer

cam (the end with the timing mark), just starts to open the circuit breaker
points.

RA PD 318205
Figure 52—Shielding of Coil to Timer Wire Grounded on Base

(4) An accurate test light check as to when points just start to break can
be made, using the instrument panel red light for the purpose. Disconnect
panel light wire from the oil pressure switch, attaching this wire to the
insulated terminal post on timer head. Turn ignition and light switch on. As

long as circuit breaker points are closed, lamp will remain lit; as points start
to open, lamp will go out. NOTE: After making use of instrument panel red
light for above purpose, reconnect wire to oil pressure switch.
(5) When exact position is found, where points just start to open,
flywheel mark should be in the center of the inspection hole.
(6) If flywheel mark is not in center of hole when points open, readjust
ignition timing as necessary (slower or faster) by means of the timer head
and band adjustment.

RA PD 318203
Figure 53—Shielded Coil to Timer Wire Correctly Connected at Coil

(7) To readjust timer head, loosen adjusting band screw and shift timer
head in band. If flywheel timing mark shows forward of center in inspection
hole, the timing is slow. To correct, shift timer head counterclockwise
against rotation of breaker cam. If flywheel mark is to rear of center of
inspection hole, timing is fast and timer head must be shifted with rotation
(clockwise) of breaker cam, to correct timing.
(8) With ignition timing correct, front cylinder piston is 9/32 inch before
top dead center, on compression stroke, when circuit breaker points just
start to open. At this point spark occurs, igniting front cylinder fuel charge.
(9) Install flywheel inspection hole plug in left crankcase.

87. COIL TO TIMER WIRE (figs. 52 and 53).
a. Models provided with radio shielding are identified by “S” on either
side of instrument panel. The coil to timer wire (low‐tension wire) on these
models is shielded for radio noise suppression.
b. Remove.
(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection.
(2) Remove the two bolts which secure upper end of air cleaner bracket
to frame tube. Swing air cleaner and bracket outward and forward to gain
access to spark coil rear terminal.
(3) Disconnect coil to timer wire terminal from coil rear connection.
Disconnect wire shielding from coil rear ground connection.
(4) Refer to paragraph 86 b (1) to (4) for timer head removal.
(5) Remove timer base mounting screw which secures wire shielding
(fig. 52).
(6) Note position of coil to timer wire inside of timer head; then remove
nut washer connecting wire to insulated contact stud.
(7) Work old wire and loom out of timer head hole and free from vehicle.

(8) On earlier models, the coil to timer wire was soldered to end of
insulated stud. Removal of stud is necessary to remove this wire, or replace
it with a shielded wire. Note location of stud insulations on inside and
outside of timer head, for correct installation when reassembling.
c. Install.
(1) Pass end of wire, shield terminal, and loom up through hole in timer
base.
(2) Ground the wire shield terminal under head of timer base mounting
screw (fig. 52).
(3) Connect wire end terminal to insulated stud so that wire leads away
from stud in direction shown (fig. 52).
(4) Pass coil to timer wire up alongside and to rear of frame saddle post
tube to reach rear of spark coil.
(5) Ground the wire shield terminal to coil rear ground connection (fig.
53).
(6) Connect wire terminal to coil rear primary connection (fig. 53).
(7) Install timer head on base (par. 86 c (11)).
(8) Connect spark control wire to timer lever and adjust (par. 88).
(9) Connect battery negative post wire to frame ground terminal.
(10) Swing air cleaner bracket back into place and install two bolts,
washers, and nuts securing bracket to frame clips.
(11) Replace timer cover and check engine for starting.

88. ADJUST SPARK CONTROL.
a. Spark advance and retard is controlled by left handle bar grip. Spark
lever operates within a quadrant mounted on engine. Spark must be fully
advanced (lever inward toward engine) when handle bar grip is turned
inward to full extent of its travel. When handle bar grip is turned outward,
spark lever retards (lever outward away from engine).
(1) With control wire in lever stud and clamp screw loose, turn left grip
fully inward; then back it out just a little.

(2) Shift spark lever inward toward engine as far as it will go; then
tighten control wire clamp screw. Test by turning left grip fully inward and
noting position of spark lever. It should be against inner side of quadrant
(fig. 51). Retard spark and check position of lever within quadrant; it should
be against outer side of quadrant.
(3) Check final adjustment. Readjust full advance and retard timer lever
positions as necessary when left grip is turned inward, and outward,
respectively.

89. SPARK COIL (fig. 54).
a. Spark coil high‐tension cables go directly to the spark plugs, no
distributor being used. When the coil is faulty, it must be replaced, since
internal repairs are not possible. The high‐tension cables can be replaced,
however. Coil is provided with a condenser for radio noise suppression, and
metal coil case is grounded to engine by bonding.
b. Remove.
(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire from frame connection.
(2) Free high‐tension cable ends (with radio noise suppressors) from
spark plugs. Free front cylinder high‐tension cable from clip at upper
engine frame mounting.
(3) Loosen air intake hose connection at carburetor fitting.
(4) Remove two nuts, washers, and bolts securing upper end of air
cleaner mounting bracket to frame clamps.

RA PD 318204
Figure 54—Coil Front Connections Showing Radio Bonding and Noise
Suppression Condenser

(5) Swing air cleaner and bracket assembly outward to gain access to coil
rear terminals.
(6) Disconnect coil to timer wire from coil rear terminal screw.
Disconnect wire shielding from coil rear ground terminal (fig. 53).

(7) Swing cleaner back and remove wire connections from coil front
terminal screw (fig. 54).
(8) Disconnect radio bonding at coil front ground terminal (fig. 54).
(9) Remove nuts and bolts which mount coil to bracket. Coil is now free
for removal.
c. Install.
(1) Mount coil on frame bracket with high‐tension cables upward, and
reinstall mounting bolts, lock washers, and nuts. Tighten nuts.
(2) Connect terminals of the two green wires to coil front terminal screw.
Refer to wiring diagram, figure 48.
(3) Connect radio bonding to coil front ground terminal. Tighten nut
securely.
(4) Connect coil to timer wire terminal to coil rear terminal screw.
Connect wire shielding to coil rear ground terminal. Tighten nut securely.
(5) Swing air cleaner and bracket assembly back in place and install two
bolts, lock washers, and nuts securing bracket to frame clamps. Tighten nuts
securely.
(6) Connect battery negative ground wire to frame connection.
(7) Pass front cylinder high‐tension wire under tank, secure in cable clip
at upper engine frame mounting, and attach cable end (radio noise
suppressor) to front spark plug. Attach rear high‐tension cable end (radio
noise suppressor) to rear spark plug.
(8) Check wiring connections (fig. 48) and test coil by engine starting.

Section XIX

GENERATING SYSTEM

Paragraph
Description 90
Clean commutator 91
Armature bearing special lubrication 92
Remove generator 93
Install generator 94
Cut‐out relay 95

8—GENERATOR SIGNAL LIGHT
12—BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL

13—BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL (GROUND)
14—“SWITCH” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR
15—“RELAY” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR
18—FRONT JUNCTION TERMINAL
26—IGNITION AND LIGHT SWITCH
32—CUT‐OUT RELAY
*H—NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER
RA PD 317200
Figure 55—Generator to Battery Wiring Diagram

90. DESCRIPTION (fig. 55).
a. The generator is shunt connected. The two field coils, regulating coil,
and shunt coil are not connected in series in the conventional manner. The
regulating field coil provides adequate current output (approx. 4 amperes)
for daytime operation. The shunt field coil is controlled through the ignition
and light switch to increase current output (approx. 8 amperes) when
vehicle lights are in use. Generator uses the third (regulating) brush system
of current regulation. A cut‐out relay serves as a magnetic switch in the
generator‐battery circuit, also operating the instrument panel green signal
light to indicate generator charge.

RA PD 310259
Figure 56—Generator Cover Removed for Commutator Cleaning

91. CLEAN COMMUTATOR (fig. 56).
a. If battery is in good condition, cut‐out relay is functioning, and wiring
connections are made according to diagram (fig. 55), yet generator does not

charge or charge rate is low, proceed to clean the commutator.
(1) Remove left footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly,
following procedure outlined under paragraph 102 a (1) to (6), to permit
generator cover removal.
(2) Remove the two end cover screws and pull end cover off generator.
(3) Clean armature commutator with No. 00 sandpaper until bright and
clean. Blow out with air. CAUTION: Do not remove or disturb brushes in
their holders. Never use emery cloth to clean the commutator.

RA PD 310260
Figure 57—Generator End Cover and Grease Retainer Removed

(4) Temporarily install footboard assembly and operate engine, to
observe whether or not generator is charging (green signal light goes off at
above 20 mph). If cleaning commutator does not remedy generator charge,
and/or commutator is badly worn, then generator must be replaced (par. 93).
If cleaning of commutator remedied generator charge, reinstall generator
end cover, and the footboard and clutch pedal assembly (par. 102 b).

92. ARMATURE BEARING SPECIAL LUBRICATION (fig. 57).
a. At the 6,000–mile second echelon preventive maintenance service
period, the commutator end bearing must be hand‐packed. In performing
this operation, care must be taken not to shift or move the generator third
(regulating) brush, thus disturbing generator current regulation. Generator
drive end bearing is adequately lubricated by oil circulating through engine.
b. To Lubricate Commutator End Bearing.
(1) Remove left footboard, sidebar, and clutch pedal assembly, following
procedure outlined in paragraph 102 a (1) to (6).
(2) Remove the two end cover screws and pull end cover off generator.
(3) Remove two of the three screws which secure the outer grease
retainer plate to end of generator (fig. 57).
(4) Loosen the other grease retainer plate screw slightly to permit shifting
plate to one side.
(5) Pack ball bearing with general purpose grease No. 2, pressing
lubricant into bearing with finger.
(6) Shift the outer grease retainer plate back into position. Install the two
screws removed, and securely tighten all three screws.
(7) Install generator end cover and the two retaining screws.
(8) Install left footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly,
following procedure outlined in paragraph b.

93. REMOVE GENERATOR (figs. 58 and 59).
a. Generator is gear driven through engine timing gear train. Generator
can be removed and installed without removing timing gear case cover, or
affecting alinement of timing gears.
b. Before replacing generator because of failure of instrument panel
green signal light to indicate charge, check panel light wiring and bulb for
good condition (par. 120).
c. When it has been determined that generator must be removed for
replacement, proceed as follows:

(1) Disconnect wires from the two generator terminals marked SWITCH
and RELAY.
(2) Remove the two long screws, through timing gear case cover, that
secure end of generator against gear case (fig. 58).
(3) Remove strap nut, lock washer, and curved washer from end of strap
that clamps generator in its cradle on engine crankcase (fig. 59).

RA PD 310261
Figure 58—Removing Generator End Mounting Screws

RA PD 310262
Figure 59—Removing Generator Strap Nut

(4) Lift strap high enough to permit raising generator so that oil slinger
(on end of generator gear) will clear adjacent gear, and allow generator to
be removed from engine. Be sure to observe and count number of paper
shims between generator and cradle. Lay these shims aside to be used again
when generator is reinstalled. Also, note location of hole in shims for oil
drain. These shims were required in original assembly to adjust driving
gears for proper mesh and, if left out, gears may mesh too deeply and
“howl,” even though considerably worn. Unless a new generator gasket is
available, to be used when generator is reinstalled, be careful not to damage
the old one.

94. INSTALL GENERATOR.

a. When installing generator, the important point to consider is correct
shimming of generator in its cradle to provide correct mesh of driving gear
with intermediate timing gear. Make sure same number of paper shims are
used in reassembling as were found underneath generator when it was
removed. After an engine has been run a considerable length of time and
gears have worn to some extent, they have possibly developed sufficient
lash or play to safely remove one or more of the original shims, and thus
affect closer meshing and quieter operation. However, this should not be
done unless timing gear case cover is removed so that gear mesh and lash
can be carefully checked.
(1) Pass generator drive gear end through gear case hole, lifting generator
so that oil slinger clears intermediate timing gear. Turn generator in its
cradle so that end holes line up with long mounting screws which pass
through gear case cover. Tighten mounting screws securely.
(2) Install curved washer, lock washer, and nut on end of clamp strap;
tighten nut securely.
(3) Connect red‐black wire to generator terminal marked RELAY, and
green wire to generator terminal marked SWITCH. Refer to wiring diagram
(fig. 55).
(4) Operate engine and check generator for current output, as well as
check for gear noise. If shimming under generator is proper, generator and
timing gears will run quietly. If necessary, readjust shimming until gears
operate quietly.

95. CUT‐OUT RELAY.
a. Operation of the instrument panel green signal light, indicating
generator charge, is controlled by the cut‐out relay. Therefore, if relay is
faulty the signal light will not operate properly, falsely indicating generator
trouble. Rust around the contact points, burned points, and loss of armature
spring tension are sources of most relay trouble. NOTE: Before condemning
a relay because of failure of green signal light, make light test (par. 120).
b. Correct adjustment of relay point gaps and tensioning of armature
springs require use of precision electric meters and expert knowledge on the

subject. A faulty relay, other than removing cover and cleaning with air,
should be replaced. No adjustment of points should be attempted.
c. Remove.
(1) Disconnect the three wires from relay terminal screws.
(2) Remove the two mounting screws and lock washers. Remove relay
from engine base.
d. Install.
(1) Mount relay on engine base with two screws and lock washers. Make
sure that mounting is clean to make good electrical ground contact between
relay and engine.
(2) Reconnect the three wire terminals to relay terminal screws. Follow
wiring diagram, figure 55.
(3) Operate engine and observe action of relay, also action of instrument
panel green signal light to indicate generator charge.

Section XX

BRAKE SYSTEM

Paragraph
Rear wheel brake 96
Front wheel brake 97

96. REAR WHEEL BRAKE (figs. 60, 61, and 62).
a. Linkage. Brake foot pedal on right side of vehicle is connected to bell
crank (located on rear footboard support rod) by means of the front brake
rod (nonadjustable). The bell crank is connected to rear brake operating
lever by means of the rear brake rod with adjustable clevis end.

RA PD 310277
Figure 60—Rear Brake Adjustment

b. Adjusting Rear Wheel Brake (fig. 60). If brake operating lever
stands ahead of vertical position, excessive lining wear is indicated. Brake
shoes must be replaced (steps c and d below). Normal free play of brake
foot pedal before brake operation is 1 inch. After brake takes effect in
vehicle operation, brake foot pedal should have 1–inch reserve travel before
bottoming on footboard. If brake foot pedal operation does not come within
these limits, adjust rear brake rod as follows:
(1) Remove cotter pin, plain washer, and clevis pin from end of rear
brake rod clevis.
(2) Loosen clevis lock nut on brake rod.
(3) Turn clevis onto (clockwise) brake rod to shorten rod and take up foot
pedal free play.
(4) Turn clevis off (counterclockwise) brake rod to lengthen rod and
increase foot pedal free play.
(5) After making brake adjustment, spin rear wheel and make sure brake
is not dragging. When correct brake adjustment is attained, install clevis pin
in clevis and brake operating lever with plain washer, and retain with cotter
pin. NOTE: Cotter pin must be in good condition.

RA PD 310273
Figure 61—Rear Brake Assembly

c. Remove Brake Shoes (fig. 61).
(1) Remove rear wheel (par. 127).
(2) Remove brake drum and sprocket assembly. Brake shoes are now
accessible. Do not remove side cover assembly from frame.

(3) Disconnect brake rod clevis at brake operating lever.
(4) Place end of large screwdriver blade between ends of brake shoes at
pivot stud. Move brake‐operating lever forward to hold brake shoes in fully
expanded position, and pry ends of shoes off pivot stud without removing
brake shoe springs.
d. Install Brake Shoes. Observe that brake shoes are made for upper and
lower positions and are not interchangeable. Recess in end of shoe for pivot
stud head determines position of shoe in assembly.
(1) Engage ends of springs in shoe assembly holes from the inside before
installing shoes on side cover (fig. 61).
(2) With brake shoes and springs assembled, install so that ends of shoes
will slip over pivot stud and shaft‐operating cam.
(3) Connect brake rod clevis to brake operating lever.
(4) Install brake drum and sprocket assembly. Lock brake to hold drum in
place while installing wheel (fig. 84).
(5) Install rear wheel (par. 127). NOTE: If rear chain is in need of
adjustment, it should be done at this time.
(6) To equalize brake shoes, loosen nut on brake shoe adjustable pivot
stud (on outside of brake side plate), and while applying pressure on brake
foot pedal (to “center” the brake shoes within the drum), retighten the pivot
stud nut.
(7) After new or relined shoes have been installed, check foot pedal for
free play (step b above).

97. FRONT WHEEL BRAKE (fig. 62).
a. Linkage (control). Handle bar hand lever control wire which operates
front wheel brake can be adjusted and or replaced. Keep brake control wire
lubricated (through oiler in housing and at ends of housing) with engine oil.
b. Remove Control Wire. Remove control wire clamp nut from brake
lever clevis, and free lower end of control wire from clevis.

(1) Remove cotter pin and flat washer from hollow pin, permitting
hollow pin to be pulled out of hand lever. Control wire can now be pulled
out of housing through the hole in hand lever.
c. Install Control Wire. Apply grease or engine oil to new control wire
and insert, through hand lever, into control wire housing. Use caution when
inserting a new control wire into housing, to prevent wire end from fraying.
A frayed wire with loose end strands will not feed through the housing.
(1) With control wire in housing, insert hand lever hollow pin so that
narrow slot straddles control wire: then fit flat washer over end of hollow
pin, retaining both with cotter pin.
(2) Insert lower end of control wire through clamp nut, then through
clevis and back through clamp nut again. Grasp end of wire with pliers and
pull until all slack is taken up. Then, while pulling wire snug, tighten clamp
nut securely. Cut off excess wire.
(3) Adjust brake control (refer to step d below).

RA PD 310274
Figure 62—Front Brake Control and Adjusting Members

d. Adjusting Front Wheel Brake. End of brake hand lever must move
freely about ¼ of its travel before meeting resistance of brake operation.
(1) Loosen adjusting sleeve lock nut and turn adjusting sleeve as
necessary to attain correct free movement of hand lever.
(2) After correct hand lever adjustment is made, tighten adjusting sleeve
lock nut.
e. Remove Brake Shoes.
(1) Remove front wheel (par. 125). After front wheel is removed, brake
side cover and shoe assembly is accessible for shoe replacement.
(2) Remove brake shoes. Brake shoes and springs can be pried off pivot
stud and freed from operating cam without removing springs.

f. Install Brake Shoes. Observe that brake shoes are made for upper and
lower positions and are not interchangeable. Recess in end of shoe for pivot
stud head determines position of shoe in assembly.
(1) Engage ends of springs in shoe holes from the inside before installing
shoes in brake side plate.
(2) With shoes and springs assembled, install the shoes so that ends of
shoes will slip over pivot stud and shaft operating cam.
(3) Install front wheel and brake assembly (par. 125).
(4) Loosen nut on brake shoe adjustable pivot stud and while applying
pressure on brake hand lever, retighten pivot stud nut. This is to center
brake shoes within the brake drum.
(5) After new or relined shoes have been installed, check brake hand
lever and, if necessary, adjust the control wire (step d above).

Section XXI

STEERING CONTROL

Paragraph
Forks 98
Steering damper 99
Handle bars 100
Handle bar controls 101

98. FORKS (figs. 63 and 64).
a. Either the spring fork can be removed and replaced, or the complete
fork assembly (spring fork and rigid) can be replaced.
b. Remove Spring Fork (fig. 63).
(1) Support vehicle on rear stand.
(2) Remove the fork spring rod lock nuts (acorn‐type).
(3) Sit on front mudguard, or otherwise provide weight, to compress fork
cushion (lower) springs. The spring rod large nuts can then be easily
removed, freeing the upper recoil and upper bumper springs for removal.
(4) Remove front wheel (par. 125).
(5) Remove front mudguard (par. 104).
(6) Remove spring fork right and left side rocker plate studs. NOTE:
Leave rigid fork rocker studs, with rockers, attached.
(7) Remove spring fork from vehicle.
c. Install Spring Fork.
(1) Place buffer springs and lower cushion springs on fork rods. Apply
grease to rods. Pass fork rods up through rigid fork bracket. Bind lower end
of spring fork to lower end of rigid fork with a strap or piece of heavy wire
(fig. 64), to prevent forks from separating while compressing cushion
springs.

(2) Install two bolts in the rigid fork brackets which mount the
mudguard; then place a rod about 8 inches long on the brackets to provide a
pry base for the leverage bar when compressing cushion springs (fig. 64).
With a leverage bar about 18 inches long, anchored on top of the pry base
rod and under the spring fork, lift upward to compress cushion springs
sufficiently to install one of the rocker plates. Then install the other rocker
plate (fig. 64). NOTE: Left side spring fork rocker plate stud has a button
end which fits into notch in brake stabilizer plate.
(3) Install mudguard (par. 104).
(4) Install front wheel (par. 125).
(5) Install the two spring rod bushings. Install upper bumper springs and
upper recoil springs on the fork rods, applying grease to rods.
(6) Remove blocks from under vehicle.
(7) Sit on mudguard to compress fork cushion (lower) springs. Tighten
the two large spring rod nuts sufficiently to provide full thread for the
spring rod lock nuts (acorn‐type). Install spring rod lock nuts and tighten.
(8) See that all nuts, bolts, and screws securing lamp bracket, mudguard,
scabbard carrier, and ammunition carrier are tightened securely.
(9) Check front wheel brake for operation.
d. Remove Upper Recoil Springs and/or Upper Bumper Springs.
(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. Remove the fork spring rod lock nuts
(acorn‐type).
(2) Sit on front mudguard, or otherwise provide weight, to compress fork
cushion (lower) springs. The spring rod large nuts can then be easily
removed, freeing the upper recoil and upper bumper springs for removal.
e. Install Upper Recoil Springs and/or Upper Bumper Springs.
(1) Apply grease to fork spring rods and install upper bumper springs.
(2) Install upper recoil springs over bumper springs on fork spring rods.
(3) Sit on front mudguard to compress cushion (lower) springs
sufficiently to start on spring rod large nuts.

(4) Tighten both spring rod large nuts. Install and tighten the two spring
rod (acorn‐type) lock nuts.
f. Remove and Install Lower Cushion Springs and/or Lower Buffer
Springs. This operation calls for same procedure followed in removing and
installing spring fork (steps b and c above).
g. Remove Complete Fork Assembly.
(1) Remove ammunition box carrier (par. 103).
(2) Remove scabbard carrier (par. 103).
(3) Remove front wheel (par. 125).
(4) Remove steering damper (par. 99).

RA PD 315728
Figure 63—Spring Fork Disassembled
A—UPPER (RECOIL) SPRINGS
B—UPPER BUMPER SPRINGS
C—SPRING ROD LOCK NUTS (ACORN‐TYPE)
D—SPRING ROD BUSHINGS
E—LARGE SPRING ROD NUTS
F—LOWER CUSHION SPRINGS

G—SPRING RODS
H—LOWER BUFFER SPRINGS
J—SPRING FORK ASSEMBLY
K—ROCKER PLATE STUD NUTS AND LOCKS
L—RIGHT SIDE ROCKER PLATE STUD AND WASHER
M—LEFT SIDE ROCKER PLATE STUD (HAS BUTTON END) AND
WASHER
N—AMMUNITION BOX CARRIER MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS
AND NUT
O—HEADLIGHT BRACKET AND MUDGUARD BOLT, WASHER
AND NUT (LEFT SIDE)
P—FRONT AXLE, CASTLE NUT AND COTTER PIN
Q—SCABBARD CARRIER MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND
NUT
R—HEADLIGHT BRACKET AND MUDGUARD BOLT, MARKER
LIGHT GABLE CLIP, WASHER AND NUT (RIGHT SIDE)
S—BRAKE SHACKLE BOLT, LOCK AND NUT
T—BRAKE AND SIDE COVER ASSEMBLY
U—MUDGUARD BRACKET MOUNTING LOCK, WASHER AND
NUTS (RIGHT SIDE)
V—MUDGUARD AND RIGID FORK MOUNTING SCREWS,
WASHERS AND NUTS
W—MUDGUARD BRACKET MOUNTING LOCK, WASHER AND
NUTS (LEFT SIDE)
X—NOTCHES IN MUDGUARD BRACKETS FOR SPECIAL LOCKS
RA PD 3157288
Legend for Figure 63—Spring Fork Disassembled

(5) Remove front mudguard, after removing nuts and locks from rear
rocker plate studs, two screws and nuts securing mudguard to rigid fork,
and the two bolts mounting headlight bracket to mudguard. NOTE: Front
mudguard blackout light wire connects to ignition and light switch and care
must be exercised not to break this wire if it is not disconnected from the
switch.
(6) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection.
Remove blackout light (par. 114). Remove headlight, horn, and bracket
assembly as one unit.
(7) Remove handle bar brake fittings and brake control wire housing
from side of fork. Remove handle bars after removing handle bar bracket
lock nut and cone lock plate. It is not necessary to disconnect spark and
throttle control wire housings from frame. Unscrew fork upper adjusting
cone from fork stem, freeing fork assembly to be removed from frame head.
NOTE: Steering head ball bearings are loose (not in retainers) in upper
and lower frame head bearing cups. Take care not to lose balls.
h. Install Fork Assembly. With vehicle on rear stand, and front end up
by blocking under frame loop or skid plate, proceed with installing fork
assembly, as follows:
(1) Thoroughly clean upper and lower frame head bearing cups and pack
with general purpose grease No. 2, installing fifteen 5⁄16–inch ball bearings
in each cup. Work grease thoroughly in between balls.
(2) See that lower fork stem cone is clean and in place, pass fork stem up
through frame head, turning on upper adjusting cone. Do not try to adjust
bearing cone as yet.
(3) Install handle bars by locating mounting bracket on ends of fork sides
and center stem, making sure that spark and throttle control wire housings
are in place.
(4) Adjust upper fork stem adjusting cone so that there is no perceptible
shake in head bearings when handle bars are worked up and down, and fork
does not bind when turned to right and left extremes.
(5) Install cone lock plate by engaging pin in one of the cone notches.

(6) Install lock nut on stem and tighten securely. NOTE: Check head
bearing play, as tightening lock nut sometimes makes head bearing too
tight. Readjust if necessary.
(7) Attach handle bar brake fittings and brake control wire housing to
side of fork.
(8) Reinstall headlight, horn, and bracket assembly. Connect wires (per
wiring diagram fig. 73) before front mudguard is reinstalled. Install
blackout light (par. 114). Reconnect battery negative ground wire to frame
ground connection.
(9) Install steering damper (par. 99).

RA PD 310266
Figure 64—Compressing Cushion Springs for Spring Fork Assembly

(10) Install front mudguard. Attach two screws, washers, and nuts for
rigid fork mounting and two bolts, washers, and nuts for headlight bracket
mounting. Fit right and left mudguard brace clip locks to right and left side
rocker plate studs respectively. Do not put on nuts until after installing
ammunition box carrier and scabbard carrier.
(11) Install front wheel (par. 125).

(12) Install scabbard carrier and ammunition box carrier (par. 103).
(13) Check lights, horn, spark control, throttle control, front brake
control, steering damper control, and steering head bearing for freedom
without binding.
i. Remove Rocker Plate Studs. Studs and/or rocker plates can be
removed and installed in the same operation. In removing and installing
studs, remove only one fork rocker plate at a time, leaving the other plate
attached to opposite side fork ends to hold fork springs in compressed
position. This will eliminate necessity of compressing fork springs to fit
rocker plates on studs.
(1) Remove front wheel (par. 125).
(2) Remove nuts and locks from rocker plate studs on right side of
vehicle. This releases gun scabbard carrier and mudguard stay clip. NOTE:
Remove the large nut which secures the long stud to rigid fork.
(3) Drive out studs from fork ends, releasing rocker plate.
(4) Install studs and rocker plate before removing studs from left side of
vehicle.
j. Install Rocker Plate Studs. Apply grease to studs and insert in rocker
plate, then install large flat washers on studs before mounting this assembly
on fork ends. Make sure that short stud is in front position, and that long
stud is in rear position for the rigid fork.
(1) Drift studs (with plate assembly) into fork end holes from the inside.
(2) Install special nut lock (with half round hole) on front stud and turn
stud as necessary to make lock “cup” over end of fork. Install and tighten
stud nut and bend up end of lock for security. Place lock washer over long
stud and install thick nut, securely tightening it.
(3) Attach end of gun scabbard carrier and mudguard brace clip with
special lock to long stud, replacing washer and nut.
(4) After right side rocker plate and/or studs have been installed, remove
and install studs and/or plate on left side of vehicle following same step‐by‐
step procedure as above. The exceptions will be ammunition box carrier

instead of scabbard carrier; also, the left side front stud is special, having a
“button” end.
(5) Install front wheel (par. 125).

RA PD 310276
Figure 65—Steering Damper Assembly

99. STEERING DAMPER (fig. 65).
a. Remove (fig. 65).
(1) Remove front wheel (par. 125).

(2) Remove front mudguard (par. 104).
(3) Remove lock nut from steering damper rod, then remove upper end
parts in the following order: adjusting nut, keyed steel washer, fiber washer,
operating lever, and actuating sleeve. This entire assembly is located in the
central part of the handle bar mounting bracket.
(4) Steering damper rod, cushion spring, pressure disk, fiber disk, and
steel disk assembly can now be withdrawn (downward) from fork stem
hole.
b. Install (fig. 65). Before installing steering damper, make sure that the
parts are in correct order on the lower end of the rod before passing rod up
through hole in fork stem. Check parts and order of assembly.
(1) Assemble parts on rod end (fig. 65), making sure that the bent down
lip of the steel pressure disk engages with notch in end of the rod lock plate.
(2) Pass rod with its lower end assembly up through hole in fork stem,
turning steel pressure disk to front position so that “bent‐up” lip engages
with notch in front side of rigid fork crown, at the same time engaging
curved end of steel disk torque arm in slot in underside of frame head.
Maintain pressure against end of rod to keep lower disks in order while
assembling upper rod end parts.
(3) Install upper rod end assembly in the following order: Small plain
washer, releasing spring, adjusting sleeve screws into end of fork stem,
operating lever registers on the adjusting sleeve, fiber washer, keyed steel
washer registers in rod slot, large adjusting nut, and lock nut.
(4) Turn actuating sleeve all the way into fork stem and then back it out
(up) ½ turn or more. Register the operating lever on flat of actuating sleeve,
and see that lever has full movement to the left without bottoming sleeve in
the fork stem.
(5) Adjust steering damper by setting adjusting (large) nut so that
operating lever must be moved nearly straight back from the free (left‐side)
position, before damper takes noticeable effect (applies friction to
movement of the handle bars). Hold large adjusting nut and tighten the
small lock nut.
(6) Install front mudguard (par. 104).

(7) Install front wheel (par. 125).

100. HANDLE BARS.
a. Remove Complete Assembly. If vehicle is equipped with handle bar
windshield and rear view mirror, remove these accessories before starting to
remove handle bar assembly.
(1) Disconnect throttle control wire at carburetor lever, and spark control
wire at timer lever.
(2) Release spark control wire housing clip at front cylinder base bolt
(near timer). Also release housing from frame clip on left side of vehicle.
Release throttle control wire housing clip, located at tank, lower front
connection bolt.
(3) Remove front brake hand lever fittings from handle bars. Also release
brake control wire housing at handle bar clamp.
(4) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection and
wires at headlight. Headlight must be removed for access to the two
terminal screws (fig. 73).
(5) Disconnect horn wire leading to handle bars and red wire (terminal
No. 17, fig. 73) leading to handle bars.
(6) Remove steering damper rod upper end fittings in the following
order: Lock nut, adjusting nut, keyed steel washer, fiber washer, operating
lever, and operating sleeve (screws into end of fork stem). Removal of these
parts gives access to handle bar lock nut. Remove handle bar lock nut and
cone lock plate.
(7) Loosen handle bar bracket‐fork end pinch bolts. Handle bars are now
free to be drifted off ends of fork sides and center stem.
(8) Remove handle bar windshield apron spring guard after handle bars
are removed from vehicle.
b. Install Complete Assembly. If vehicle is equipped with handle bar
windshield and rear view mirror, attach these accessories after handle bar
assembly is installed.

(1) Attach windshield apron spring guard to handle bar bracket. Do not
tighten bolt nut until after handle bars are installed.
(2) Start handle bar bracket holes over ends of fork, seeing that spark
control wire housing is on right side of frame head: then drive handle bars
onto fork ends, using a rawhide mallet, or a hammer and wood block.
(3) To install cone lock plate, enter registering pin through hole in handle
bars and engage notch in the adjusting cone. Install and tighten handle bar
lock nut securely. CAUTION: When tightening this nut, always make sure
that register (shoulder) of nut enters hole in lock plate and handle bars.
(4) Check adjustment of head bearing. The fork must turn freely but
without perceptible shake. Readjust head cone to obtain proper bearing
adjustment if necessary.
(5) Tighten handle bar bracket‐fork end pinch bolts.
(6) Position windshield apron guard so that it clears fork springs.
Securely tighten mounting bolt nut.
(7) Install steering damper upper end fittings (fig. 65). Make sure that
lower end disks and plates are properly engaged. Adjust (par. 99).
(8) Connect handle bar wires to terminal plate, horn, and headlight.
Consult wiring diagram (fig. 73). Install headlight. Adjust beam and secure
mounting nut (par. 114). Connect battery negative ground wire to frame
connection.
(9) Check operation of lights and horn, tactical situation permitting.
(10) Attach front brake hand lever fittings to left handle bar. Secure
control wire housing in handle bar clamp, just ahead of housing oiler.
Check front brake for correct operation and, if necessary, adjust (par. 97).
(11) Pass spark control wire housing along left side of frame front tube,
between cylinders (under carburetor) to position housing end clamp on
cylinder stud near timer. Secure clamp under cylinder stud nut. Secure wire
cable under clamp on left side of frame front tube, with white paint mark
slightly ahead of clamp front edge. Engage end of spark control wire in
timer lever and adjust spark control (par. 88).

(12) Pass throttle control wire housing along right side of frame front
tube and over top of front cylinder head to reach carburetor connection.
Install tank (lower front) mounting bolt to secure wire housing clamp. See
that white paint mark on wire housing is slightly ahead of clamp, then
secure bolt nut on left side of vehicle. Engage end of throttle control wire in
throttle lever and adjust (par. 69).

RA PD 310282
Figure 66—Removing Handle Bar Grip Sleeve Retaining Nut

101. HANDLE BAR CONTROLS (figs. 66 and 67).
a. Construction of the throttle and spark controls is the same, thus
replacing a control wire or wire housing follows the same general procedure
up to the point where control adjustment is made. Handle bar grip sleeves
(spirals) are interchangeable.

b. Remove Throttle Control Wire (fig. 67).
(1) Disconnect control wire at throttle lever connection.
(2) Insert blade of a large, square‐shank screwdriver through hole in end
of grip and turn out end nut by using a wrench on the shank of the
screwdriver (fig. 66). Sometimes this nut is difficult to remove. In this case,
insert punch into the slot in the nut and strike punch two or three sharp
blows to “free” nut in handle bar end threads. Remove nut as above. NOTE:
Nut remains inside the grip and is removed with the grip and spiral sleeve
assembly.
(3) Remove grip and spiral assembly from handle bars. Control wire and
working parts are now accessible.
(4) Remove plain roller from pin. Remove roller block from pin. Remove
pin from plunger.
(5) Pull plunger with wire attached out of handle bar end. Remove
hexagon head screw which secures wire to plunger. NOTE: If wire is
broken, remove other half from housing at carburetor connection end.
(6) Remove any rust, dirt, or gum from grip spiral, handle bar end, wire
plunger, and inside of handle bar where plunger operates.

A—END NUT.
B—GRIP.
C—GRIP SLEEVE ASSEMBLY.

D—ROLLER PIN.
E—ROLLER.
F—ROLLER BLOCK.
G—PLUNGER.
H—CONTROL WIRE.
I—WIRE RETAINING NUT.
RA PD 310263
Figure 67—Handle Bar Grip and Wire Control, Disassembled

c. Install Throttle Control Wire (fig. 67).
(1) Pass hollow screw over control wire with threaded end of hollow
screw facing button on end of wire. Install screw in end of plunger.
Securely tighten screw.
(2) Apply grease or engine oil to control wire and insert end into control
wire housing.
(3) Apply grease to plunger and push plunger and wire into handle bar
until plunger pin hole is exposed in handle bar slot. Work plunger or turn it
within handle bar so that pin hole and flat side are upward and are centered
in slot; then insert roller pin into plunger hole, roller block (with flat sides),
and roller in order named. Apply grease to plunger pin and roller and to
outside of handle bar end.
(4) Install grip and spiral assembly by engaging plunger roller in spiral
opening in end of grip sleeve. Grip spiral sleeve nut can best be started
without danger of cross threading, by holding grip assembly back slightly
while starting nut in handle bar end. This squares nut with end of grip
sleeve, alining threads. Securely tighten nut with screwdriver and wrench.
(5) Connect control wire at throttle lever connection. Adjust control (par.
69).
d. Remove Spark Control Wire (fig. 67). Disconnect control wire at
timer lever and follow procedure outlined under step b above.

e. Install Spark Control Wire (fig. 67). Follow procedure outlined
under step c above, then connect control wire at timer lever and adjust
control (par. 88).
f. Remove and Install Control Wire Housings. Remove either control
wire housing after following procedure outlined above (step b), then
remove set screw on under side of handle bar, just ahead of grip sleeve
shoulder. NOTE: Set screw for spark control wire housing is located under
headlight dimmer switch. After set screw is removed and housing freed
from attaching clamps, housing can be pushed out through end of handle
bar.
(1) When installing control wire housings, see that housing end is secured
in handle bar with set screw, and that housing is correctly attached to
vehicle clamps.
(2) Install control wire and grip (step c above) and adjust controls: spark
(par. 88), throttle (par. 69).

Section XXII

SHEET METAL AND EQUIPMENT

Paragraph
Chain guards 102
Carriers 103
Mudguards 104
Battery box 105
Tool box 106
Tanks 107
Stands 108
Saddle post 109
Safety guards 110
Skid plate 111

102. CHAIN GUARDS.
a. Remove Outer Front Chain Guard (figs. 68 and 69).
(1) Remove nut and washer which secures center of chain guard and skid
plate left‐side support bracket.
(2) Loosen skid plate support bracket lower bolt and nut and remove
bracket from stud.
(3) Loosen the nut which secures footboard rear stud to sidebar, then
remove nut which secures footboard front stud to sidebar. Pull front end of
footboard away from sidebar so that stud will clear end of safety guard.
(4) Remove extended nut which secures sidebar to frame front support
rod.
(5) Disconnect clutch control cable end at clutch foot pedal by removing
cotter pin and plain washer from stud.
(6) Left side footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly can now
be removed. If rear end of sidebar is lowered, the front end will clear end of
safety guard.

(7) Remove cotter pin, nut, spring, washer, and bolt from chain guard
rear mounting. Outer front chain guard can now be removed, exposing
engine sprocket, front drive chain, and clutch assembly.
b. Install Outer Front Chain Guard.
(1) Locate outer front chain guard on center support stud (frame rear
support rod end). Line up rear mounting bracket with frame bracket.
(2) Install bolt, washer, spring, nut, and cotter pin to secure rear
mounting.
(3) Install footboard, sidebar, and clutch foot pedal assembly on frame
support rod ends.

RA PD 310264
Figure 68—Left Footboard Assembly Removed

RA PD 315729
Figure 69—Outer Front Chain Guard Removed

(4) Attach front end of sidebar. Install extended nut and lock washer to
secure front sidebar and support rod mounting.
(5) Install skid plate support bracket on support rod (in center of chain
guard), tightening nut on bolt. Install nut and lock washer which secure skid
plate bracket and chain guard on rear support rod. Tighten nut.
(6) Pull front end of footboard away from sidebar so that hole in end of
safety guard lines up with hole in sidebar, then pass footboard stud through
both pieces, installing washer and securing stud nut. Tighten footboard rear
stud nut.

(7) Attach brake control cable end to foot pedal stud.
c. Remove Rear Chain Guard.
(1) Remove cap screw which secures rear chain oil pipe clamp, and
provides mounting for front end of chain guard on transmission sprocket
cover. Remove chain guard.
(2) Remove chain guard from rear mounting by pushing the guard back
so that stud (with washers and spring) slips out of mounting clip notch.
d. Install Rear Chain Guard.
(1) Locate rear chain guard in position for mounting. Spread the large
washer on the rear stud to engage clip notch. Push guard forward until front
end hole lines up with chain oiler pipe clamp, then install cap screw and
washer, securing guard and clip to sprocket cover.

103. CARRIERS.
a. Remove Ammunition Box Carrier.
(1) Remove nut and screw which secures carrier bracket to front
mudguard.
(2) Remove nut and lock washer from rocker plate rear stud. This frees
lower end of carrier.
(3) Remove nut, washer, cable clip, and plain washer from rigid fork
stud. Remove carrier and box.
b. Install Ammunition Box Carrier.
(1) Locate hole in lower end of bracket on rocker plate rear stud. Attach
upper end of bracket to rigid fork stud. Replace lock washers and nuts.
Tighten nuts.
(2) Attach carrier bracket to front mudguard with screw, washer, and nut.
Tighten nut.
c. Remove and Install Scabbard Carrier. The procedure for removing
and installing scabbard carrier is the same as outlined for ammunition box
carrier, except that scabbard carrier is on left side of vehicle. Follow
procedure outlined under steps a and b above.

d. Remove Luggage Carrier.
(1) Loosen straps of both saddlebags, and remove saddlebags from
keyhole notches in luggage carrier side plates. Remove nuts from right and
left side mounting studs, which secure luggage carrier to frame clips.
Deflate rear wheel tire so that a piece of wood or suitable object can be used
to depress top part of tire under mudguard, to provide clearance, and access
to the three nuts which secure screws for luggage carrier mudguard
mounting. NOTE: If rear wheel is removed, mounting screws are
accessible.
(2) Remove the three luggage carrier center mounting screws. Remove
luggage carrier from vehicle.
e. Install Luggage Carrier.
(1) Mount luggage carrier on frame clip studs. Install washers and nuts.
With rear tire deflated and depressed for clearance under mudguard, install
the three screws, lock washers, and nuts for carrier‐mudguard mounting.
NOTE: If rear wheel is removed, mounting screws are accessible.
(2) Tighten frame stud nuts to secure both sides of carrier.
(3) Attach saddlebags and securely strap to frame stays.
(4) Inflate tire to 20 pounds.

104. MUDGUARDS.
a. Remove Front Mudguard.
(1) Remove front wheel (par. 125).
(2) Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119), disconnect front
mudguard blackout marker light wire at switch. Pull wire out, free from
tanks.
(3) Remove the two screws and nuts from rigid fork and mudguard
mounting. Remove the two screws and nuts securing lamp bracket to
mudguard.
(4) Remove bolt and nut which secure ammunition box carrier to
mudguard.

(5) Remove bolt and nut which secure gun scabbard carrier to mudguard.
(6) Remove nuts from fork left rocker plate stud. These nuts secure
ammunition box lower bracket, and mudguard stay clip. Remove nuts from
fork right rocker plate stud. These nuts secure gun scabbard carrier lower
bracket, and mudguard stay clip.
(7) Pull carrier brackets off rocker plate studs. Remove mudguard brace
clip locks from slots in clips so that mudguard can be dropped. When
removing mudguard from vehicle, take care not to break and/or damage
blackout light wire.
b. Install Front Mudguard.
(1) Locate mudguard in mounting position. Engage slots in stay clips on
rocker plate studs, installing the special locks in the clip slots. NOTE:
Brace clip locks are made for right and left side installation. Secure both
clip locks with stud nuts.
(2) Attach ends of ammunition and scabbard carriers to rocker plate
studs. Secure with lock washers and nuts.
(3) Mount mudguard to rigid fork bracket. Tighten the two screws,
washers, and nuts.
(4) Attach lower end of headlight bracket to mudguard with two bolts,
washers, and nuts.
(5) Attach ammunition box carrier bracket to mudguard. Tighten bolt,
washer, and nut.
(6) Attach gun scabbard carrier bracket to mudguard. Tighten bolt,
washer, and nut.
(7) Reinstall front wheel and brake assembly (par. 125).
(8) Connect mudguard blackout light wire to switch terminal. Refer to
wiring diagram, figure 73.
(9) Install instrument panel cover (par. 119).
c. Remove Rear Mudguard.
(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. Remove rear wheel (par. 127).

(2) Remove luggage carrier (par. 103).
(3) Remove rear chain guard (par. 102).
(4) Remove the two U‐bolt nuts which mount safety guard at upper frame
bracket. Then pull safety guard away from studs and remove studs from
frame bracket, freeing mudguard at this point. NOTE: These two studs
screw into a “plate” nut.
(5) Remove bolt and nut which secure battery box left‐side bracket to
mudguard.
(6) Remove bolt and nut which secure battery box right‐side bracket.
This bolt also secures lower tool box bracket and speedometer cable clip to
mudguard.
(7) Remove nut and washers from bolt which secures lower end of
mudguard to frame (behind transmission).
(8) Remove taillight connector plugs from sockets and remove cable
from mudguard spring clips.
(9) Remove nuts from studs which secure right‐ and left‐side mudguard
brace clips to frame axle clips. Mudguard can now be removed from
vehicle.
d. Install Rear Mudguard.
(1) Locate mudguard in position for mounting. Install the two studs,
washers, and nuts which secure right‐ and left‐side brace clips to frame axle
clips. NOTE: If brake side cover interferes with locating nut on right side,
loosen the brake sleeve nut and push brake side cover assembly inward for
clearance. Be sure to retighten brake sleeve nut.
(2) Attach front lower end of mudguard. Install flat washer, lock washer,
and nut on bolt to secure lower end of mudguard to frame (in back of
transmission).
(3) Install the two studs which mount mudguard and upper battery box
bracket on frame bracket. These two studs screw into a plate nut located
underneath the battery box bracket. Removing the battery box cover will
give more access to plate nut in this step. Install battery box cover if it is
removed for this job.

(4) Attach rear safety guard to the two frame bracket studs. Install
washers and nuts. Securely tighten nuts and tighten U‐bolt nuts, which
secure ends of safety guard to frame stays.
(5) Attach battery box bracket to mudguard bracket. Install bolt, washer,
and nut which secure battery box right‐side bracket, tool box bracket lower
end, and speedometer cable clip to mudguard bracket. Bolt is inserted from
front side, head toward engine. NOTE: Speedometer cable clip is under
head of bolt.
(6) Attach left‐side mudguard bracket and battery box bracket. Install
bolt, washer, and nut which secure battery box left‐side bracket to
mudguard bracket. Bolt is inserted from front side, head toward engine.
(7) Install rear chain guard (par. 102).
(8) Locate and retain taillight cable in mudguard spring clips. Attach
connector plugs to taillights (wiring diagram, fig. 73).
(9) Install luggage carrier (par. 103).
(10) Install rear wheel (par. 127).
(11) Securely tighten all bolts and nuts.

105. BATTERY BOX.
a. Remove Battery Box.
(1) Remove battery (par. 113).
(2) To remove rear brake rod, disconnect clevis from brake lever, and free
front end of rod at brake shaft bell crank.
(3) Remove rear chain guard (par. 102).
(4) Remove tool box and bracket in one piece (par. 106).
(5) Remove nut and bolt securing left side lower battery box mounting to
mudguard bracket. Remove nut and bolt securing battery front mounting to
frame saddle post tube bracket.
(6) Remove the two nuts securing rear safety guard center connection to
mounting studs. Unscrew mounting studs to free the plate nut which clamps
the battery box bracket to frame cross member.

(7) Remove battery box from right side of vehicle.
b. Install Battery Box. Locate battery box in vehicle from left side and
secure upper rear mounting bracket with the two frame cross member studs
and the plate nut. Install washers and nuts which secure safety guard to
these same two studs.
(1) Install bolt to secure battery box front mounting to frame tube. Make
sure that bolt passes through frame tube bracket from left side, and that
large plain washer bears against battery box front bracket (bracket has open
end). Tighten nut to secure box bracket to frame tube bracket.
(2) Install tool box and bracket (par. 106).
(3) Install bolt, washer, and nut which secure battery box left‐side
mounting to mudguard. Insert bolt from the front.
(4) Install rear chain guard (par. 102).
(5) Connect rear brake rod end to bell crank fitting. Attach clevis to brake
operating lever, installing plain washer, clevis pin, and cotter pin.
(6) Install battery (par. 113).

106. TOOL BOX.
a. General. When tool box only is to be removed and/or installed, it is a
simple matter to open box and remove and/or install the three large screws.
Gear‐toothed lock washers and large recessed washers fit under screw
heads.
b. Remove Box and Bracket Assembly. Remove bolt and nut which
secure tool box upper mounting bracket to frame clip. Lower end of
mounting bracket, battery box bracket, and speedometer cable are all
secured to the mudguard bracket by the same bolt and nut. Remove
speedometer cable from clip and remove bolt and nut, freeing tool box and
bracket assembly for removal. NOTE: Removal of rear brake rod will make
bracket lower mounting bolt and nut more accessible.
c. Install Box and Bracket Assembly. Locate box and bracket assembly
on vehicle and install bolt, washer, and nut at the upper frame clip
mounting. To attach bracket lower end to mudguard bracket, place bolt

through speedometer cable clip, then through box mounting bracket, battery
box bracket, and mudguard bracket, securing assembly with lock washer
and nut.

RA PD 310245
Figure 70—Fuel and Oil Tanks Removed

107. TANKS (fig. 70).
a. General. Fuel and oil tanks are separate, fitting together, saddle‐type,
in upper frame tubes, and are retained in position with three mounting bolts.
Either tank can be removed and/or installed without disturbing line
connections of the other tank.

b. Fuel Tank. Fuel tank is located on left side of vehicle and holds
slightly over 3 U.S. gallons. It provides mounting for shifter lever and
shifter lever guide. Drain is located in forward position on under side of
tank.
c. Oil Tank. Oil tank is located on right side of vehicle and holds 1 U.S.
gallon. Oil feed pipe, scavenger (return) pipe, and breather pipe connections
are on under side of tank. Drain is located in forward position on under side
of tank.
d. Remove Fuel Tank.
(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection.
(2) Loosen the two cap screws which secure caution plate and tank top
strip.
(3) Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119).
(4) Disconnect gear shifter lever and shifter rod by removing bolt.
(5) Shut off fuel supply. Disconnect fuel pipe at tank union nipple.
(6) Remove nuts, lock washers, and flat washers from the two front (one
upper and one lower) mounting bolts, and nut, lock washer, and flat washer
from the rear mounting bolt. Leave bolts in place so that oil tank will stay in
position after fuel tank is removed. Remove fuel tank from vehicle.
e. Install Fuel Tank.
(1) Position fuel tank on vehicle. Pass the three mounting bolts through
tank brackets from right side of vehicle. It will be necessary to pry up on
tank top strip in order to slip top edge of tank under strip. Install large flat
washers, lock washers, and nuts on mounting bolts and securely tighten the
nuts.
(2) Tighten the two cap screws, securing caution plate and tank top strip.
(3) Connect fuel pipe at tank nipple union. Open supply valve.
(4) Install instrument panel cover (par. 119).
(5) Connect gear shifter lever and shifter rod by installing bolt, lock
washer, and nut.

(6) Connect battery negative ground wire to frame connection.
(7) After fuel tank has been filled, check pipe connection and drain plug
for leaks.
f. Remove Oil Tank.
(1) Disconnect battery negative ground wire at frame connection.
(2) Loosen the two cap screws which secure caution plate and tank top
strip.
(3) Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119).
(4) Drain oil from tank by removing drain plug. Use a trough (of
cardboard or tin) to keep oil from draining on engine. NOTE: If oil feed
pipe nipple cap (manufacturer’s (H–D) No. 3583–15) is available, it can be
screwed on to tank nipple, thus eliminating draining of oil.
(5) Disconnect oil feed pipe at rear nipple union.
(6) Disconnect scavenger (return) pipe at nipple union.
(7) Disconnect breather pipe banjo‐type connection by taking out bolt.
(8) Remove nuts, lock washers, and flat washers from the two front (one
upper and one lower) mounting bolts, and nut, lock washer, and flat washer
from rear mounting bolt. NOTE: To prevent fuel tank from falling out of
frame, remove upper front mounting bolt and rear mounting bolt and pass
both back through fuel tank mounting brackets from the left side of vehicle.
Oil tank can then be removed, and fuel tank will stay in place.
g. Install Oil Tank.
(1) Position oil tank on vehicle. Make sure that composition buffer is in
place before installing mounting bolts from right side of vehicle. Pry up on
tank top strip in order to slip top edge of tank under strip.
(2) Install large flat washers, lock washers, and nuts on mounting bolts.
Securely tighten the nuts.
(3) Tighten the two cap screws securing caution plate and tank top strip.
(4) Connect oil feed pipe to tank nipple. Tank nipple is located at lower
rear end of tank.

(5) Connect scavenger (return) pipe to tank nipple. Nipple is located
underneath tank, near center.
(6) Connect breather pipe with banjo‐type fitting to tank. Use hollow
bolt, making sure flat washers are in place on both sides of banjo fitting and
that mounting bolt is tight.
(7) Install instrument panel cover (par. 119).
(8) See that oil tank drain plug and washer are in place, and that the plug
is tight.
(9) Connect battery negative ground wire to frame connection.
(10) After filling oil tank, check all pipe fittings for leaks.

108. STANDS.
a. Remove Rear Stand. Remove nuts which secure rear stand mounting
bolts. Drift bolts out of frame clip holes, freeing stand.
b. Install Rear Stand. Locate stand in position so that bracket stop is
downward and will bear against frame axle clips to support vehicle when
stand is in use. See that cupped spring washers are on mounting bolts before
attaching stand to frame. Drift mounting bolts into frame axle clips and
secure with lock washers and nuts.
c. Remove Jiffy Stand.
(1) Support vehicle on rear stand.
(2) Loosen footboard rear support stud nut. Remove footboard front
support rod nut and pull footboard outward to release end of safety guard.
Remove extended nut from footboard sidebar front mounting. Remove nut
securing upper end of skid plate hanger and sidebar rear mounting (located
in center of chain guard cover). Loosen nut and bolt which secure skid plate
hanger bracket to skid plate: drop bracket. Disconnect clutch control cable
from foot pedal stud to prevent damage to cable end piece. Remove left
footboard, clutch foot pedal, and sidebar assembly from support rod ends.

RA PD 310269
Figure 71—Saddle and Suspension

(3) Remove the two nuts from U‐bolt which secure safety guard bracket
to frame tube, remove bracket from U‐bolt, and slide safety guard assembly
out of support rod.
d. Install Jiffy Stand.
(1) Install safety guard assembly on support rod and secure mounting
bracket to frame tube with U‐bolt, washers, and nuts.
(2) Install footboard, clutch foot pedal, and sidebar assembly. Attach skid
plate hanger bracket and secure to support rod. Attach clutch control cable
end to foot pedal stud, installing plain washer and cotter pin. Install washer
and extended nut on end of front support rod. Securely tighten nut. Attach

front end of sidebar to end of safety guard by pulling front of footboard
outward, alining hole in safety guard end with hole in sidebar, and passing
footboard front support stud through both parts, securing with washer and
nut. Tighten footboard rear support stud nut.
(3) Return vehicle to operating position.

109. SADDLE POST (fig. 71).
a. Saddle is mounted on saddle bar by means of three mounting bolts and
can be shifted forward or backward to provide three positions on saddle bar.
Spacer collars can be added and or removed from the two rear mountings to
raise or lower rear of saddle to alter riding position. Saddle bar hinges on
frame bracket and is clevis‐connected to saddle spring post. Saddle and
saddle bar can be lifted upward and forward after releasing spring latch (on
left side) from groove in clevis pin end and removing clevis pin from saddle
bar.
b. Remove Saddle Spring Post. Support vehicle on rear stand. Raise
saddle and saddle bar after removing saddle post clevis pin. Remove bolt
and nut from left‐side skid plate bracket and remove nut to free right‐side
skid plate bracket at muffler pipe clamp and frame connection. Drop skid
plate. Remove saddle spring post clamp nut, which is located underneath
frame at bottom end of saddle post frame tube. Saddle spring post assembly
can be pulled upward out of frame tube.
c. Install Saddle Spring Post. When saddle spring post assembly is
inserted in frame tube, see that flat side machined on post rod end nut
registers in flat side of hole in bottom of frame tube. Install and securely
tighten saddle spring post clamp nut at bottom end of frame tube. Lift skid
plate and secure in position with left‐side bracket bolt, washer, and nut and
with right bracket bolt, washer, and nut (this also secures muffler pipe
clamp to frame clip). Lower saddle and saddle bar into position. Insert
clevis pin from right side and secure with spring latch, making sure that
spring is in pin groove.

110. SAFETY GUARDS.
a. Remove Front Safely Guard.

(1) Loosen nuts which secure right and left footboard rear support studs
to sidebars. Remove nuts which secure right and left footboard front
support studs (and mount ends of safety guard) to sidebars. Pull front end of
each footboard outward so that support stud will free end of safety guard.
Remove four nuts from the two U‐bolts which mount safety guard upper
bracket to frame tube. Remove safety guard.
b. Install Front Safety Guard. Locate safety guard and mount upper
bracket to frame tube with the two U‐bolts, washers, and nuts, but do not
tighten nuts as yet. Pull front end of right footboard outward, line up hole in
safety guard end with hole in sidebar, and pass footboard front support stud
through both parts, securing with washer and nut. Follow same procedure to
mount left end of safety guard. Tighten U‐bolt nuts securely.
c. Remove Rear Safety Guard. Remove nuts from U‐bolts which mount
ends of safety guard to lower frame stays. Remove the two nuts from upper
safety guard mounting. After removing U‐bolts, safety guard can be
removed from vehicle.
d. Install Rear Safety Guard. Position safety guard on vehicle. Install
U‐bolts, washers, and nuts for lower end mounting on frame stays. Do not
tighten nuts. Engage upper mounting holes on studs and replace washers
and nuts. Tighten all mounting nuts.

RA PD 310234
Figure 72—Showing Skid Plate Dropped

111. SKID PLATE.
a. Rear end of skid plate must be dropped when removing and or
replacing muffler assembly, saddle spring post, transmission, and engine.
b. Drop Skid Plate (fig. 72).
(1) Remove nut from bolt which secures skid plate side mounting bracket
to frame clip. This bolt also mounts muffler tube clamp to frame clip.
(2) Remove left side mounting. Remove nut and bolt which secures
lower end of hanger bracket to skid plate on left side of vehicle. Drop rear
end of skid plate.
c. Install Dropped Skid Plate.
(1) Lift rear end of skid plate into position. Attach right‐side bracket at
frame clip bolt. Secure mounting with washer and nut.
(2) Attach lower end of left‐side hanger bracket to skid plate. Install bolt,
washer, and nut. Tighten nut.

d. Remove and/or Install Skid Plate.
(1) To remove skid plate from vehicle, follow instructions in step b
above; then remove nut and bolt from U‐clamp which secures skid plate to
frame bracket, and remove nut and belt from clamp which secures right
front end to support rod.
(2) To install skid plate, mount right front end to support rod clamp, and
install bolt and nut to secure U‐clamp under frame bracket. Then follow
instructions in step c above.

Section XXIII

BATTERY, LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORN

Paragraph
Description 112
Battery 113
Headlights 114
Taillights 115
Ignition and light switch 116
Horn 117
Wiring 118

112. DESCRIPTION.
a. Lighting system and horn are supplied 6‐volt current from the 22‐
ampere‐hour battery. Negative side of battery and system is grounded.
Blackout lights and service lights are controlled by the same switch
(ignition and light switch) which also controls ignition. Blackout headlight
has auxiliary control switch in body. Service headlight upper and lower
beam is controlled by toggle switch on left handle bar. Horn is operated by
button on left handle bar after ignition and light switch is in “ON” position.
Blackout stop light and service stop light are operated by brake foot pedal
switch.

113. BATTERY.
a. The 3‐cell, 15‐plate, 6‐volt, 22‐ampere‐hour battery is located in
battery box back of frame seat post tube, and is accessible for inspection
and or service after removing box cover. Normally charged battery has
specific gravity reading of 1.275. Normally discharged battery has specific
gravity of 1.150.
b. Check Electrolyte Level (fig. 74).
(1) Raise saddle and bar assembly after releasing and removing swivel
pin.

(2) Loosen wing thumb nuts on box top hold‐down studs sufficiently to
disengage bracket slots, then lift off box cover.
(3) Remove the three filler plugs. Check and or adjust electrolyte level.
See that electrolyte level is 5⁄16 inch above plates. If necessary, bring
electrolyte to that level, using clean, drinkable water.
(4) Clean top of battery before installing box cover.
(5) Clean terminals or posts, if corroded. Make sure that the felt washers
are on posts and are saturated with engine oil.
c. Remove Battery. Raise saddle and bar assembly. Release and remove
swivel pin. Loosen wing thumb nuts on box top hold‐down studs
sufficiently to disengage bracket slots, then lift off box cover. Disconnect
positive and negative wires from battery terminals. Lift battery upward out
of battery box.

RA PD 310278
Figure 73—Complete Wiring Diagram
1. SWITCH TERMINAL (Three Wires connected)—Black wire
from blackout marker light 24; taillight cable green wire from
blackout taillight 22; single wire direct from blackout headlight as
shown by dotted line in illustration 43, or horn and headlight
cable black wire from junction terminal 35 as shown in
illustration 44.

2. SWITCH TERMINAL (Four wires connected)—Generator and
relay cable green wire from “switch” terminal (14) of generator;
taillight cable black wire from service stop and taillight (23);
horn and headlight cable red wire from junction terminal 17;
black wire from speedometer light (11).
3. SWITCH TERMINAL (Two wires connected)—Generator and
relay cable red wire from terminal marked “BAT” on relay; coil
and battery cable red wire from junction terminal 18.
4. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Black wire from oil
signal light terminal (10).
5. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Taillight cable
yellow wire from blackout stop lamp (21).
6. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Battery and coil
cable black wire from junction terminal 19.
7. SWITCH TERMINAL (One wire connected)—Taillight cable red
wire from service stop and taillight (23).
8. GENERATOR SIGNAL LIGHT TERMINAL (One wire
connected)—Generator and relay cable black wire from relay
right front terminal.
9. OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL LIGHT TERMINAL (One wire
connected)—Black wire from oil pressure switch (16).
10. SIGNAL LIGHT TERMINAL (Four wires connected)—Black
wire (under switch panel) from generator signal light terminal
(8); black wire from switch terminal (4); battery and coil cable
green wire from coil front terminal; horn and headlight cable
green wire from horn.
11. SPEEDOMETER LIGHT—Black wire from switch terminal 2.
12. BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL (LEFT SIDE)—Red wire with
black tracer from junction terminal 18.
13. BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL (RIGHT SIDE)—Black wire
from ground clamp on frame.

14. “SWITCH” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR—Generator and
relay cable green wire from switch terminal 2.
15. “RELAY” TERMINAL OF GENERATOR—Red wire with black
tracer from relay rear terminal.
16. OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL SWITCH—Black wire from signal
light terminal 9.
17. JUNCTION TERMINAL (BAKELITE TERMINAL PLATE ON
HORN MOUNTING)—Horn and headlight cable red wire from
switch terminal 2,—red wire with black tracer from handlebar
toggle switch (31).
18. FRONT JUNCTION TERMINAL (in motorcycle frame, under
saddle)—Coil and battery cable red wire from switch terminal 3;
red wire with black tracer from battery positive terminal (12).
19. REAR JUNCTION TERMINAL (in motorcycle frame, under
saddle)—Coil and battery cable black wire from switch terminal
6; red wire from stop light switch (20).

RA PD 310278B
20. STOP LIGHT SWITCH—Red wire from junction terminal 19;
green wire from coil terminal.
21. BLACKOUT STOP LIGHT (Top socket in right taillight)—
Taillight cable yellow wire from switch terminal 5.
22. BLACKOUT TAILLIGHTS—Taillight cable green wire from
switch terminal 1.
23. SERVICE TAIL AND STOP LIGHT (top socket in left taillight—
two wires in one plug)—Taillight cable black wire from switch
terminal 2 is for service taillight, and taillight cable red wire from
switch terminal 7 is for service stop light.
24. BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT (ON FRONT MUDGUARD)—
Black wire from switch terminal 1.

25. SERVICE HEADLIGHT—Black wire with red tracer from
handlebar toggle switch (31) to large terminal screw; red wire
with yellow tracer from handlebar toggle switch to small
terminal screw.
26. IGNITION AND LIGHT SWITCH (TOP VIEW)—Switch “OFF”
in straight‐ahead position.
27. BLACKOUT HEADLIGHT—Blackout headlight is fitted with
independent switch in lamp body.
28. SPARK COIL—Coil and battery cable green wire from terminal
10 to coil front terminal; green wire from stop light switch (20) to
coil front terminal; low tension wire (34) from circuit breaker (33)
to coil rear terminal.
29. HORN—Horn and headlight cable green wire from terminal
10; black wire from horn switch (30).
30. HORN SWITCH—Black wire from horn.
31. HANDLEBAR TOGGLE SWITCH—Black wire with red tracer
from service headlight terminal with large terminal screw; red
wire with yellow tracer to service headlight terminal with small
terminal screw; red wire with black tracer from junction terminal
17.
32. CUT‐OUT RELAY—Red wire with black tracer from “relay”
terminal of generator to relay rear terminal; generator and relay
cable red wire from switch terminal 3 to relay terminal marked
“BAT”; generator and relay cable black wire from terminal 8, to
relay right front terminal.
33. IGNITION CIRCUIT BREAKER AND TIMER—Low tension
wire (34) from coil rear terminal.
34. CIRCUIT BREAKER‐TO‐COIL LOW TENSION WIRE—See
Description 33.
35. JUNCTION TERMINAL ON BAKELITE TERMINAL PLATE—
Horn and headlight cable black wire from switch terminal 1; wire
from blackout headlight (27).

All WLA model motorcycles originally equipped with radio
interference suppression‐devices, or to which suppression‐
devices have been added, can be identified by a large letter S
stenciled on left and right sides of instrument panel cover.
*A GROUND TERMINALS ON COIL HOUSING.
*B FLEXIBLE BRAID CONDUCTOR.
*C CONDENSER.
*D SHIELDED CIRCUIT BREAKER‐TO‐COIL LOW TENSION
WIRE.
*E SPARK PLUG SUPPRESSORS.
*H CONDENSER.
RA PD 310278C
Legend for Figure 73—Complete Wiring Diagram

RA PD 310247
Figure 74—Battery Box Open and Filler Plugs Removed for Service

d. Install Battery. See that rubber mat is in place in bottom of battery
box and install battery in box so that positive post is on left side of vehicle,
and negative post is on right side of vehicle. Connect wires to battery
positive and negative posts. Fit rubber mat on top of battery. Install cover
and securely tighten thumb wing nuts. Lower saddle and bar assembly.
Install swivel pin on right side of vehicle so that retaining spring fits in
groove in end of swivel pin.

114. HEADLIGHTS.
a. Service Headlight.
(1) Remove nut which secures light body to bracket, observing that
conical washer bears against cup of bracket for secure light mounting.
Disconnect wires from light body terminals.
(2) Before installing service headlight, connect wires to light body
terminals, noting that black wire with red tracer connects with the larger
terminal screw. Mount light on bracket. Position conical‐shaped washer and
lock washer and install mounting stud nut. Do not tighten mounting nut.
b. Adjust Service Headlight. Adjustment should be made in darkened
area or at night, tactical situation permitting. Vehicle must be standing on a
level surface about 25 feet away from and headed toward a wall or screen
upon which a horizontal line has been drawn at exactly the same height as
service headlight center. Set handle bar toggle switch in “BRIGHT”
position and check light beam for height and direction. The top of main
beam of light should register on wall or screen even with, but not higher
than, the horizontal line mentioned. Tilt light body in bracket up or down to
correctly aim it in relation to the horizontal line, making sure that light body
is not turned either to right or left. Securely tighten mounting stud nut.

RA PD 310275
Figure 75—Blackout Headlight Installation

c. Blackout Headlight. Blackout headlight is mounted on bracket which
attaches to left upper side of front fork. Blackout headlight operates when
ignition and light switch is turned to the second right position. However,
blackout headlight is fitted with an independent switch in light body to
permit turning it off while other blackout lights are in use. Blackout
headlight body is secured to mounting bracket by means of a conical

washer, lock washer, and mounting nut, providing a swivel mounting to
permit light adjustment.
d. Blackout Marker Light. The blackout marker light is secured to front
mudguard by means of a hollow mounting stud, with plain washer, lock
washer, and nut. Light wire passes through hollow stud and is protected by
tubing on under side of mudguard. Blackout marker light wire connects
with No. 1 post on ignition and light switch. Lamp is on with ignition and
light switch in second right position.

115. TAILLIGHTS.
a. Blackout Stop and Taillight. Blackout stop and taillight is mounted
on right side of taillight bracket. Light is provided with top unit to provide
blackout stop light controlled by brake‐operated stop light switch. Bottom
unit in the blackout stop and taillight is regularly used as service blackout
taillight and is controlled by ignition and light switch.

RA PD 310272
Figure 76—Ignition and Light Switch, Front and Back Positions

b. Service Stop and Taillight. Light is located on left side of light
mounting bracket. Top unit is used for service stop and taillight (double
filament lamp). Taillight filament is controlled by ignition and light switch;
stop lamp filament is controlled by brake‐operated stop light switch. Stop
light does not operate in daytime when ignition only is turned on. Bottom
unit serves as a spare blackout taillight. In case the regularly used (right‐
side) blackout taillamp fails, its socket plug can be transferred to this
taillight socket.
c. Stop and Taillight Switch. This switch is operated by brake pedal and
is located on end of rear support rod on right side of vehicle. Refer to
wiring diagram (fig. 73) and paragraph 118 for wiring connections.

116. IGNITION AND LIGHT SWITCH.
a. Earlier models are provided with lock, later models are non‐locking.

8—GENERATOR SIGNAL LIGHT.

14—GENERATOR TERMINAL TO SWITCH.
15—GENERATOR TERMINAL TO RELAY.
26—IGNITION‐LIGHT SWITCH.
32—RELAY.
35—TERMINAL STRIP BINDING POST.
36—MAGNETIC SWITCH FOR BLACKOUT LIGHT.
H—NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER.
RA PD 310279
Figure 77—Blackout Headlight Magnetic Switch on Later Models

b. Remove. Disconnect battery ground wire. Remove instrument panel
cover (par. 119). Disconnect all wires from switch. Remove the four switch
mounting screws and spacers. Switch is now free for removal.
c. Install. Mount switch on instrument panel base. Install four screws and
spacers. Connect wires (fig. 73). Connect battery negative ground wire to
frame. Turn switch on. Check lights and horn, tactical situation permitting.
Install instrument panel cover (par. 119).

RA PD 310270
Figure 78—Wiring Cables, Left Side

RA PD 310271
Figure 79—Wiring Cables, Right Side

117. HORN.
a. Description. Horn is mounted to headlight bracket by means of four
bolts, lock washers, and nuts. One horn terminal is connected with
operating button, and other terminal is connected to No. 4 ignition and light
switch terminal (fig. 73).
b. Adjust. Tone adjusting screw is located in rear side of horn. If horn
fails to operate and moving the adjusting screw does not remedy the
trouble, horn must be replaced. NOTE: Do not change position of the
adjusting screw located in center of diaphragm.

118. WIRING.

a. Cable System. Since ignition and lights are controlled by the ignition
and light switch, all wires terminate at the ignition and light switch. Cables
for wire protection are used, making it necessary to replace cables rather
than individual wires. A study of figure 73 will be helpful when removing
or installing any of the wiring cables. Also study figures 78 and 79 and note
how cables are arranged on frame, and how they lead to the switch panel.
b. Remove and Install Cables. When it becomes necessary to replace
wiring cables leading to the ignition and light switch, both fuel and oil tanks
must be removed (par. 107) and instrument panel cover removed (par. 119)
for accessibility.

Section XXIV

INSTRUMENT PANEL

Paragraph
Panel cover 119
Indicator lights 120
Speedometer head 121

119. PANEL COVER (fig. 80).
a. Remove. Remove speedometer light switch knob and remove screw.
Remove hexagon‐head screw on front of cover. Remove two screws from
side of cover. Remove two screws and washers which fasten plate to right
side of cover. Lift cover off panel.

RA PD 315731
Figure 80—Panel Cover Removed

b. Install. Position cover on panel. Install two side mounting screws and
washers and install hexagon‐head screw, plain washer, and lock washer in
front end of cover. Attach cover side plate, installing two screws and
washers. Install speedometer light switch knob and screw.

120. INDICATOR LIGHTS.
a. Three 2–c.p. single‐contact lamps are located on instrument panel. One
for oil pressure (red) indicator light: one for generator‐charge (green)
indicator light, and one for speedometer illumination.
b. Remove and/or Install. Remove and/or install panel cover (par. 119).

c. Test Generator‐Charge (Green) Indicator Lamp. Disconnect black
wire from relay terminal (top terminal at front end of relay) and ground on
relay base. Turn ignition and light switch on. Lamp should light. If it does
not light, check wire for condition and/or replace lamp after removing panel
cover (par. 119).
d. Test Oil Pressure (Red) Indicator Lamp. Disconnect wire from oil
pressure switch. Ground the wire on engine. Turn ignition and light switch
on. Lamp should light. If it does not light, check wire for condition and/or
replace lamp after removing panel cover (par. 119). If lamp and wiring are
satisfactory, replace oil pressure switch.

121. SPEEDOMETER HEAD.
a. Remove. Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119). Loosen the two
tank front mounting bolts and remove rear mounting bolt to free
speedometer cable clamp. Disconnect speedometer cable at drive unit. Free
cable from clip located below tool box. Remove two screws which mount
head to frame. Pull head upward, working cable forward under tank, until
head and cable connection nut is clear of frame. Unscrew cable nut. NOTE:
Cable may be secured to frame tube, between tanks, with friction tape. If so,
cut tape.
b. Install. Attach speedometer head to cable end and tighten nut. Pass
cable down into frame hole, pulling on rear of cable at same time. Mount
speedometer head to frame with two screws and lock washers. Install panel
cover (par. 119). Secure cable clamp under head of tank rear mounting bolt.
Secure cable in clip, located under tool box. Attach end of cable to drive
unit. Tighten the two tank front mounting bolts.

Section XXV

TIRES, WHEELS, AND HUBS

Paragraph
Description 122
Tires 123
Rims and spokes 124
Front wheel replacement 125
Front wheel hub adjustment 126
Rear wheel replacement 127

122. DESCRIPTION.
a. Wheels have drop center rims to accommodate 4.00 x 18 tires. Front
and rear wheels are not interchangeable. Front wheel hub is of ball‐bearing
design, having cone adjustment similar to that of a bicycle hub. Rear wheel
hub is of roller‐bearing design and must be taken apart for adjustment. Both
wheels have “knock‐out” type axles.

123. TIRES.
a. Description. Wheel rims are of the drop‐center type, having a
depression, or well, in center of rim. The rim well, being smaller in
circumference than the rest of the rim, allows one casing bead to fit loosely
in it while other bead is being worked over edge of rim. Bear in mind the
importance of keeping one bead in rim well while other bead is being
worked onto or off rim. NOTE: It is not always necessary to completely
remove casing from rim. Removing one side only allows inner tube to be
removed and reinstalled, and also allows inside of casing to be inspected.
b. Remove.
(1) Remove wheel from vehicle and lay wheel on its side. To remove
front wheel, refer to paragraph 125. To remove rear wheel, refer to
paragraph 127.
(2) Remove valve cap and valve core to free all air from tube.

(3) Press casing head into rim well to within a short distance of each side
of valve.
(4) Using tire iron “B” in vehicle kit (fig. 11), start bead over edge of rim
at valve. Do not use force when starting bead over edge of rim with tire
iron, because bead wires may be broken or stretched, and tire ruined. With
first bead in rim well, bead on other side can be started easily over edge of
rim. After a portion of second bead is started over rim edge, casing can be
further removed from wheel without aid of tire iron.

RA PD 310254
Figure 81—Disassembly for Front Wheel Removal

c. Install. Before applying casing to rim, see that rubber rim strip is in
place in rim well and that rim strip valve hole alines with valve hole in rim.
(1) Start either bead of casing over rim edge. Work around wheel until
entire bead is on rim.
(2) Place inner tube in casing. NOTE: Inner tube may be placed in casing
before or after first bead of casing is on rim. Insert valve stem through hole
in rim and start valve stem lock nut. While pressing first bead into rim well,
work remaining bead over edge of rim, starting directly opposite valve
stem. Work both ways around wheel toward valve.
(3) Inflate front tire to 18 pounds, and rear tire to 20 pounds.
(4) Reinstall front wheel (par. 125): reinstall wheel (par. 127).
CAUTION: Tire casings are balanced and must be applied to rim with
balance mark located at valve stem. On Firestone tires the balance mark is
a red triangle, and on Goodyear tires a red dot.

124. RIMS AND SPOKES.
a. Wheels with broken and or missing spokes, with rims in badly kinked
and or distorted condition, or having considerable run‐out, must be
replaced.
b. Loose wheel spokes must be tightened evenly, being careful not to
distort rim out‐of‐round or cause run‐out. Use spoke nipple wrench (41–W–
3339) for front wheel spokes, and wrench (41–W–3340) for rear wheel
spokes.

125. FRONT WHEEL REPLACEMENT (fig. 81).
a. Remove.
(1) Support vehicle on rear stand. Raise front end of vehicle by blocking
up under frame loop on skid plate.
(2) Remove brake shackle bolt from rigid fork on left side of vehicle.

(3) Front axle is knock‐out type. Remove cotter pin and axle castle nut
and pull out axle. Wheel is free for removal. CAUTION: Before removing
axle note how slot in brake stabilizer plate is fitted over the extended
(button) end of the left‐front rocker plate stud. It is necessary that this be
correctly assembled when replacing front wheel.
(4) Roll wheel forward and remove brake assembly from brake drum,
leaving the assembly attached to brake control wire and control wire
housing.
b. Install (fig. 81). NOTE: At the time wheel and brake assembly is
located in front fork, and before axle is installed, make sure that the curved
slot in brake stabilizer plate engages with the button end of the left‐front
rocker plate stud.
(1) Install brake assembly in brake drum.
(2) Roll wheel into position. Engage stabilizer plate notch and rocker
plate stud button end, and at same time insert front axle.
(3) Install castle nut (no lock washer used) on axle and securely tighten.

RA PD 310252
Figure 82—Front Hub Prepared for Cone Adjustment

(4) Use good cotter pin to secure nut.
(5) Install brake shackle bolt and special lock washer and nut. Tighten
nut.
(6) Check front brake control wire and housing to make sure everything
is in order and correctly adjusted (par. 97).
(7) Remove blocking from under vehicle.

126. FRONT WHEEL HUB ADJUSTMENT.

a. Front wheel, ball‐bearing hub, is similar to a bicycle front hub as far as
adjustment is concerned. Do not completely disassemble hub for adjustment
as balls are not in retainers, and will fall out when cone is removed. Hub is
provided with grease deflector sleeve and felt retainer. NOTE: Earlier
models are not equipped with grease deflector sleeve or felt retainer
washer. Front wheel should have slight play or shake on bearings, and
should turn freely.

RA PD 315733
Figure 83—Disassembly for Rear Wheel Removal

(1) Remove front wheel (par. 125).
(2) Back off cone lock nut to end of axle sleeve. Do not remove nut.
(3) Turn cone on axle sleeve to the right (clockwise) to take up wheel
play, and to the left (counterclockwise) to give more wheel play. Adjust so
that wheel has slight play on bearing.
(4) Tighten cone lock nut. After tightening nut, again try for slight wheel
play on bearing. Sometimes tightening lock nut takes up on bearing play. If
necessary, readjust for desired results when cone lock nut is tight.
(5) Install front wheel and brake assembly (par. 125).
(6) Check adjustment of front brake.

127. REAR WHEEL REPLACEMENT (figs. 83 and 84).
a. Remove.
(1) Support vehicle on rear stand.
(2) Release mudguard rear stays. Loosen mounting nuts, and raise end of
mudguard for wheel clearance.

RA PD 310253
Figure 84—Brake Rod Lock

(3) Remove the five wheel mounting socket screws which secure wheel
hub to brake shell and sprocket assembly. Use vehicle kit wrench “S” and
sleeve (handle) “C” (fig. 11). NOTE: Wrench can be inserted from left side
through holes in hub, and wheel must be turned to bring each mounting
screw directly to the rear of axle for accessibility.
(4) Use brake rod lock to set and lock brake to prevent brake shell and
sprocket from coming off brake assembly while wheel is being removed.
Apply brake pedal and shift brake rod lock against tool box bracket,
securing lock in this position with wing nut (fig. 84).
(5) Remove axle nut (right side of vehicle), using vehicle kit wrench “J”
(fig. 11).
(6) Pull out axle from left side of vehicle.
(7) Remove spacer from between wheel hub end and left side of frame.

(8) Wheel is now free to come out by pulling and working it away from
dowel pins located in brake shell assembly. A wheel being removed for the
first time may offer some resistance. It will be observed that chain,
sprocket, and brake assembly remain in the vehicle frame.
b. Install (figs. 83 and 84).
(1) Position wheel on brake shell dowel pins. Work hub onto dowels as
far as it will go.
(2) Install axle spacer at left end of hub so that axle will pass through it
and the hub.
(3) Install axle from left side of vehicle. Pass it through sleeve and hub,
with end of axle engaging the frame left axle clip notch.
(4) See that lock washer is in place. Turn on and securely tighten axle
nut, using vehicle kit wrench “J” (fig. 11).
(5) Loosen wing nut clamping brake rod lock. Move brake rod lock
forward so that it will not strike any object when brake is operated; tighten
wing nut to retain in position (fig. 84).
(6) Install and securely tighten the five wheel mounting socket screws.
(7) Lower mudguard into position and attach ends of rear stays. Securely
tighten the clamping nuts.

REFERENCES

STANDARD NOMENCLATURE LISTS
SNL G–
Motorcycle, chain drive (Harley‐Davidson)
523
Cleaning, preserving and lubricating materials, recoil fluids,
special oils, and miscellaneous related items SNL K–1
Soldering, brazing, and welding materials, gases, and related
items SNL K–2
Tools, maintenance, for the repair of automotive vehicles SNL G–27
Tool sets—motor transport SNL N–19
Tool sets for ordnance service command, automotive shops SNL N–30
Current Standard Nomenclature Lists are listed above.
An up‐to‐date list of SNL’s is maintained in the Index to
Maintenance Publications OFSB 1–1
EXPLANATORY PUBLICATIONS
Military motor vehicles AR 850–15
Automotive Materiel
Automotive electricity TM 10–580
Electric fundamentals TM 10–455
The motor vehicle TM 10–510
Chassis, body, and trailer units TM 10–550
Maintenance and Repair
Automotive lubrication TM 10–540
Motor transport inspections TM 10–545
Tire repair and retread TM 9–1868
Cleaning, preserving, lubricating and welding materials and
similar items issued by the ordnance TM 9–850
OFSB 6–
Detailed lubrication instructions for ordnance materiel
series
Protection of Materiel
Explosives and demolitions FM 5–25
Defense against chemical attack FM 21–40

Decontamination of Armored Force vehicles FM 17–59
Chemical decontamination, materials and equipment TM 3–220
List of Publications for Training FM 21–6
Storage and Shipment
Registration of motor vehicles AR 850–10
Storage of motor vehicle equipment AR 850–18
Ordnance storage and shipment chart, group G—Major items OSSC–G

INDEX
A Page No.

Air cleaner, 122
Allocation of maintenance by echelons, 40
Ammunition box carrier, 169
Armature bearing special lubrication, 145
Auxiliary brake, 12

B

Battery, lighting system, horn
battery
check electrolyte level, 181
installation, 185
removal, 181
description, 181
horn
adjustment, 190
description, 190
ignition and light switch
installation, 188
removal, 188
service headlights
adjustment, 185
blackout, 186
marker, 187
taillights
blackout stop and taillight, 187
service stop and taillight, 187
wiring
cable system, 190
removal and installation, 190

Brake system
brake shoe installation, 151
brake shoe removal, 150
front wheel brake, 151
rear wheel brake
adjustment, 149
linkage, 149

C

Carburetor
adjustment, 116
bowl cleaning, 120
installation, 118
removal, 118
Chains and sprockets
chain oilers, 109
chain repair tool, 113
countershaft sprocket replacement, 114
engine sprocket replacement, 113
front chain adjustment, 105
front chain replacement, 111
rear chain adjustment, 107
rear chain replacement, 111
rear wheel alinement, 107
Clutch
control adjustment, 85
description, 86
disk and spring inspection, 91
disk installation, 93
disk removal, 90
maintenance and adjustment, 86
release bearing
installation, 95
removal, 95
spring tension adjustment, 89

Controls and operation
controls
auxiliary brake (front wheel), 12
carburetor choke, 13
clutch, 10
foot starter crank, 12
gasoline valve, 9
gear shifter, 12
ignition and light switch, 12
instrument panel signal lights, 13
service brake (rear wheel), 12
spark, 10
steering damper, 12
throttle, 10
driving precautions
avoid low gear operation, 17
braking, 17
high‐speed tips, 17
engine prestarting instructions, 13
operation of vehicle
starting on level ground, 16
starting on uneven or soft ground, 16
running‐in new engine (or vehicle), 19
starting engine
behavior of instrument panel signal lights, 15
cold engine, 14
engine with dead battery, 15
hot engine, 15
warm engine, 14
stopping and parking vehicle
parking vehicle, 18
stopping vehicle, 17
stopping the engine, 16
towing vehicle to start engine
engine starting with dead battery, 18

D

Data, tabulated
engine, 72
vehicle specifications, 7
capacities, 8
performance, 7
Description
battery, lighting system, horn, 181
clutch, 86
engine, 72
generating system, 142
ignition system, 129
intake and exhaust system, 122
tires, wheels and hubs, 193
transmission, 96
Description of vehicle, 7

E

Echelon system of maintenance allocation, 40
Engine
carbon removal, 74
data, 72
description, 72
head, gasket replacement
installation, 74
removal, 73
installation, 82
oil feed pump replacement, 77
removal, 78
tune‐up, 72
valve tappet adjustment, 74
Exhaust system, 126

F

First echelon preventive maintenance services

after‐operation and weekly service, 25
at‐halt service, 24
before‐operation service, 21
during‐operation service, 23
purpose, 20
Fuel system
carburetor
installation, 118
removal, 118
carburetor adjustment
complete readjustment of carburetor, 116
low speed adjusting needle, 116
carburetor bowl cleaning, 120
fuel pipe
installation, 121
removal, 121
fuel strainer
cleaning, 120
install strainer assembly, 120
remove strainer assembly, 120
general, 115
throttle control wire adjustment
closed throttle, 118
open throttle, 118

G

Generating system
armature bearing special lubrication, 145
commutator cleaning, 143
cut‐out relay, 147
description, 142
generator installation, 147
generator removal, 145
Generator removal and installation, 145, 147

H

Horn, 190

I

Ignition system
circuit breaker and timer assembly installation, 133
recommended recheck of ignition timing, 135
removal, 133
circuit breaker points
adjustable contact point installation, 131
adjustable contact point removal, 131
adjustment, 131
breaker lever installation, 131
breaker lever removal, 130
coil to timer wire
installation, 138
removal, 138
condenser
installation, 133
removal, 131
description, 129
spark coil
installation, 140
removal, 139
spark control adjustment, 139
spark plugs
cleaning, 129
point adjustment, 129
replacement, 129
type, 129
Installation procedure
air cleaner, 126
ammunition box carrier, 169
battery, 185
battery box, 173
carburetor, 118
circuit breaker and timer assembly, 133

circuit breaker lever, 131
circuit breaker points, 131
clutch release bearing, 95
coil to timer wire, 138
condenser, 133
control wire housings, 166
engine, 82
engine head gasket, 74
exhaust pipe, 127
foot starter, 98
fork assembly, 158
front wheel, 196
fuel pipe, 121
fuel strainer assembly, 120
fuel tank, 175
generator, 147
handle bar assembly, 163
ignition and light switch, 188
instrument panel cover, 191
jiffy stand, 177
luggage carrier, 170
mudguards, 171
muffler assembly, 127
oil tank, 176
outer front chain guard, 167
rear chain guard, 169
rear stand, 176
rear wheel, 199
saddle post, 178
safety guards, 178
scabbard carrier, 169
skid plates, 180
spark coil, 140
spark control wire, 166
speedometer, 192
spring forks, 154
starter crank springs, 101

steering damper, 161
throttle control wire, 165
tires, 195
tool box and bracket assembly, 173
upper bumper springs, 155
upper coil springs, 155
wiring, 190
Instrument panel
indicator lights, 191
panel cover
installation, 191
removal, 191
speedometer
installation, 192
removal, 192
Intake and exhaust system
air cleaner
general, 122
installation, 126
maintenance, 123
removal, 125
service, 122
air cleaner mounting bracket replacement, 126
description
exhaust, 122
intake, 122
exhaust system
muffler assembly installation, 127
muffler assembly removal, 126
pipe installation, 127
hose and carburetor fitting
installation, 125
removal, 125
Introduction
scope of manual, 3
supersession of quartermaster manuals, 3

L

Lighting system, 181
Lubrication
introduction, 30
lubrication guide, 30
general, 30
lubrication notes, 30
oilcan points, 34
supplies, 30
warning light, 34

M

Maintenance allocation
allocation of maintenance by echelons
clutch, 40
controls and linkage, 40
electrical group, 41
engine (V‐45″ twin engine), 41
exhaust group, 42
miscellaneous, 42
suspension (front), 43
suspension (rear), 43
tires, 44
transmission, 44
vehicle assembly, 44
scope of maintenance, 39
Manual, scope of, 3

O

Organization tools and equipment, 60

P

Preventive maintenance services

first echelon, 20
second echelon, 45

R

References
explanatory publications
automotive materiel, 200
list of publications for training, 200
maintenance and repair, 200
protection of materiel, 200
storage and shipment, 200
standard nomenclature lists, 200
Removal procedure
air cleaner, 125
ammunition box carrier, 169
battery, 181
battery box, 172
carbon, 74
carburetor, 118
circuit breaker and timer assembly, 133
circuit breaker lever, 130
condenser, 131
control wire housings, 166
engine, 78
engine head gasket, 73
foot starter, 98
fork assembly, 155
front wheel, 195
fuel pipe, 121
fuel strainer assembly, 120
fuel tank, 174
generator, 145
handle bar assembly, 162
ignition coil to timer wire, 138
instrument panel cover, 191
jiffy stand, 176

luggage carrier, 170
mudguards, 170, 171
muffler assembly, 126
oil tank, 175
outer front chain guard, 167
rear chain guard, 169
rear stand, 176
rear wheel, 198
release bearing (clutch), 95
saddle post, 178
safety guards, 178
scabbard carrier, 169
skid plates, 180
spark coil, 139
spark control wire, 166
speedometer, 192
spring forks, 154
starter crank spring, 98
steering damper, 161
throttle control wire, 164
tires, 193
tool box and bracket assembly, 173
upper bumper springs, 155
upper coil springs, 155
Road test chart of maintenance operations, 49

S

Second echelon preventive maintenance
road test chart, 47
maintenance operation, 49
services
first echelon participation, 45
frequency, 45
general procedures, 45
specific procedures, 47

Sheet metal and equipment
battery box
installation, 173
removal, 172
carriers
ammunition box carrier installation, 169
ammunition box carrier removal, 169
fuel tank
installation, 175
removal, 174
chain guards
outer front chain guard installation, 167
outer front chain guard removal, 167
rear chain guard installation, 169
rear chain guard removal, 169
jiffy stand
installation, 177
removal, 176
luggage carrier
installation, 170
removal, 170
mudguard (front)
installation, 171
removal, 170
mudguard (rear)
installation, 171
removal, 171
oil tank
installation, 176
removal, 175
rear stand
installation, 176
removal, 176
saddle post
description, 178
installation, 178
removal, 178

safety guards
installation, 178
removal, 178
scabbard carrier
installation, 169
removal, 169
skid plates
installation, 180
removal, 180
tanks
fuel tank, 173
general, 173
oil tank, 173
tool box
box and bracket assembly installation, 173
box and bracket assembly removal, 173
Spark plugs, 129
Speedometer
installation, 192
removal, 192

Steering control
control wire housings
installation, 166
removal, 166
fork assembly (complete)
installation, 158
removal, 155
rocker plate studs, 160
forks (springs)
installation, 154
removal, 154
handle bar controls
install throttle control wire, 165
remove throttle control wire, 164
handle bars

installation of assembly, 163
removal of assembly, 162
spark control wire
installation, 166
removal, 166
steering damper
installation, 161
removal, 161
upper coil springs and upper bumper springs
installation, 155
removal, 155
Stowage on vehicle (tools and equipment), 35

T

Tabulated data
engine, 72
vehicle specifications, 7
capacities, 8
performance, 7
Tires, wheels, and hubs
description, 193
front wheel
hub adjustment, 197
installation, 196
removal, 195
rear wheel
installation, 199
removal, 198
rims and spokes, 195
tires
description, 193
installation, 195
removal, 193
Tools and equipment stowage on the vehicle
vehicle equipment, 36

vehicle spare parts, 38
vehicle tools, 35
Transmission
control linkage
adjustment, 97
checking gear shifter control linkage, 96
transmission shifted to adjust front drive chain, 96
description, 96
foot starter
installation, 98
removal, 98
installation, 101
removal, 99
starter crank springs
installation, 98
removal, 98
Trouble shooting
brakes, 70
electrical system, 68
engine
instruction, 61
tests to determine mechanical condition, 63
engine lubricating system, 64
fuel system, 65
generating system, 68
ignition system, 66
introduction, 61
steering, 71
transmission and clutch, 69
wheels and chains, 69

W

Wheels and hubs, 195
Wiring, 190

[A.G. 300.7 (17 Aug. 1943)]
By order of the Secretary of War:

G. C. MARSHALL,
Chief of Staff.

Official:
J. A. ULIO,
Major General,
The Adjutant General.
Distribution: R9 (4): IR 5, 7 and 17 (5): Bn 9 (2): IBn 5, 6,
7 and 17 (5): C9 (8): IC 5, 6, 7 and 17 (5)
(For explanation of symbols, see FM 21–6)
RAPD3OEC43–81M

PUBLICATIONS DEPARTMENT ‐ RARITAN ARSENAL

Transcriber’s notes:
The original spelling, punctuation and hyphenation has been retained except for
apparent printer’s errors which have been silently corrected.
In the Fig. 51 caption M—MARK ON BREAKER CAM AND MARKS ON TIMER HEAD
AND HAND - ‘HAND’ should possibly read ‘BAND’.
In the echelon table, section 25. ALLOCATION OF MAINTENANCE, ‘strained gasoline’
should possibly read ‘strainer gasoline’.

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