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Title: The Book of the Pearl

Author: George Frederick Kunz
Charles Hugh Stevenson

Release date: September 26, 2020 [eBook #63299]
Most recently updated: October 18, 2024

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOOK OF
THE PEARL ***

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THE BOOK OF
THE PEARL

THE CZARINA OF RUSSIA

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THE BOOK OF
THE PEARL
THE HISTORY, ART, SCIENCE, AND INDUSTRY OF THE
QUEEN OF GEMS

BY
GEORGE FREDERICK KUNZ, A.M., Ph.D.
AND
CHARLES HUGH STEVENSON, LL.M., D.C.L.
Orient pearls fit for a queen
Will I give thy love to win,
And a shell to keep them in.
—The Faithful Shepherdess (1611)

NEW YORK
THE CENTURY CO.
1908

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Copyright, 1908, by
The Century Co.

Published October, 1908

THE DE VINNE PRESS

TO

MARGARET, THE PEARL

AS A SLIGHT MARK OF APPRECIATION BY THE AUTHORS OF HER
FATHER’S GENEROUS ENCOURAGEMENT OF SCIENCE, ART,
ENGINEERING, TECHNOLOGY, AND LITERATURE

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CONTENTS

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CHAPTER PAGE
Introduction xv

I Pearls among the Ancients 3

II Medieval and Modern History of Pearls 15

III Origin of Pearls 35

IV Structure and Forms of Pearls 51

V Sources of Pearls 65

VI The Pearl Fisheries of the Persian Gulf 85

VII East African Pearl Fisheries 153

VIII Pearl Fisheries of the British Isles 159

IX Pearl Fisheries of the South Sea Islands 189

X Pearl Fisheries of Venezuela 225

XI Pearl-Culture and Pearl-Farming 285

XII Mystical and Medicinal Properties of Pearls 301

XIII Values and Commerce of Pearls 319

XIV Treatment and Care of Pearls 375

XV Pearls as Used in Ornaments and Decoration 403

XVI Famous Pearls and Collections 449

XVII The Aboriginal Use of Pearls, and Their Discovery in Mounds and 485
Graves

Bibliography 517

Page 11

Index 541

Page 12

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Page 13

The Czarina of Russia Frontispiece

FACING PAGE
Ancient Chinese crown with pearls. Ancient Chinese pearl rosary. Chinese
priests keeping guard over the tombs of the kings, in Mukden, where the
crowns are preserved 4

Grecian pearl and gold necklace 8

Front cover of Ashburnham manuscript of the Four Gospels 16

Francis I, King of France, 1494–1547. Isabelle de Valois 19
(From photographs by A. Giraudon)

Maria Theresa (1717–1780), Queen of Hungary 24

Facsimile of title-page of decrees of Venetian Senate regulating the wearing
of pearls 27

Lady Abinger. Mrs. Adair. Baroness de Forest. Hon. Mrs. Renard Gréville.
Marchioness of Lansdowne. Lady Londonderry. Lady Wimborne 30
(From photographs, copyright by Lafayette, Ltd., London)

Venezuela shell. Panama shell 36

Shells from Venezuela with attached pearls. Exterior view of same. X-ray
photograph of shell, printed through exterior of shell and showing
encysted pearls 39

Mexican pearl-oyster with adherent pearl. Group of encysted pearls in shell
of Australian pearl-oyster. Mexican pearl-oyster with encysted fish.
Group of encysted pearls (oriental). Reverse of same group, showing
outline of the individual pearls 42

Cross section of an irregular pearl, magnified 80 diameters. Cross sections
of pearls, magnified 30 diameters. Thin section of mother-of-pearl,
magnified, showing sponge borings which traversed the pearl shell.
Structure of conch pearl produced by fracturing, magnified 80 diameters 53

Pearls from common clam of eastern coast of America. Pearl “nuggets”
from the Mississippi Valley. Wing pearls from the Mississippi Valley.
Dog-tooth pearls from the Mississippi Valley 55

Page 14

Actual sizes of pearls from ⅛ grain to 160 grains 57

Brooches made of petal, dog-tooth, and wing pearls 58

Gray pearls in the possession of an American lady and brooch from Tiffany
& Co.’s exhibit, Paris Exposition, 1900 60

Shell of pearl-oyster with attached pearl 68

Pinna or wing shell. Pearl-oyster of Ceylon 72

Shell and pearls of the common conch 76

Cargo boat in pearl fishery of the Persian Gulf. Huts of mats and palm
leaves, the homes of the pearl fishermen at Menamah, Bahrein Islands,
Persian Gulf 87

Agha Mohammed (1666–1725). Shah Sulaiman (1647–1694) 88

Arab pearl-divers at work in the Persian Gulf 90

His Imperial Majesty, Mohammed Ali, Shah of Persia 94

The “Prince of Pearls”; the late Rana of Dholpur in his pearl regalia 101

The late Maharajah of Patiala 108

Facsimiles of notices of pearl-fishing at Marichchikadde, in English and
Cingalese 110–111

Unloading oysters from the vessels into the kottus at Marichchikadde,
Ceylon. The pearling fleet on the shore at Marichchikadde, Ceylon.
Hindu workmen preparing to drill pearls, Marichchikadde, Ceylon 115

Indian pearl merchants ready for business. Children of Persian pearl dealers 120

Street scene in Marichchikadde, the pearling camp of Ceylon. Return of the
fleet from the pearl reefs to Marichchikadde, Ceylon 126

Pearls presented by the Imam of Muscat to President Van Buren 131

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Necklace and earrings from the treasury of the Emir of Bohkara 136

Carved “Jerusalem Shell” from the Red Sea 142

Cap of State, from looting of summer palace, Pekin, in 1860 145

Fishing for the awabi (abalone) shells at Wada-no-hara, Japan 148
(From “The Burlington Art Magazine”)

Old print showing four methods of catching pearl-bearing mollusks 160

Madame Norischkine née Straudman. Duchesse Elizabeth (Constantin).
(From a photograph by Ch. Bergamasco, St. Petersburg) (From a
photograph by A. Pasetti, St. Petersburg)
Daughter of General Sobelieff, first Countess Beauharnais 163

Scotch pearl rivers 167

Great Cameo Pearl 170

Dowager Czarina of Russia. Grand Duchess Vladimir.
(From a photograph by Ch. Bergamasco, St. Petersburg)
Grand Duchess Marie Pavlovna 174

Miter of Patriarch Nikon 176

Panagia or ornament worn on the breast of a bishop in Russia 180

Russian Boyard ladies of the seventeenth century, showing caps and other
ornaments of pearls 184

Pearl-divers of the Tuamotu Archipelago. Settlement of pearl fishermen at
Hiqueru, Tuamotu Archipelago 197

Pearling boats at Hiqueru, Tuamotu Archipelago. Australian pearl-diver
(armored) coming up from the depths 204

Opening pearl-oysters and searching for pearls, off the coast of Australia.
Grading, weighing, and packing mother-of-pearl, off the coast of
Australia 213

Moro boats, used among the pearl islands of the Malay Archipelago. Raft
used for pearl-fishing in the Malay Archipelago 216

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Pearling village, with youthful fishermen, Sulu Islands. Japanese diver in
Dutch East Indies, come up to “blow” for a few minutes 220

Gray pearls from Lower California, and diamonds 228

Clara Eugenia, daughter of Philip II 237

The Adams gold vase 248

Negro pearling camp, on bank of an Arkansas river. Group of Arkansas
pearl fishermen 254

Brooch, Renaissance style, set with baroque pearls, from American streams 259

Brooches and rings of fresh-water pearls from Wisconsin and Tennessee 262

Pearl-bearing unios 266

Pearling scene on White River, Arkansas. Pearling camp on upper
Mississippi River 270

The evolution of buttons, made from Mississippi shells 275

Necklace of fresh-water pearls 276

Shell of pearl-bearing abalone 280

Shell of Dipsas plicatus, with attached metal figures of Buddha coated with
nacre. Shell of Dipsas plicatus, with attached porcelain beads coated
with nacre 286

Artificial rearing-ponds for the development of pearl-oysters on the Island
of Espiritŭ Santo, Gulf of California. Trays containing small pearl-
oysters prepared for placing at the bottom of artificial rearing-ponds 291

Japanese legend of the dragon and the pearl, idealized in Jade 302

Russian eikon of the Madonna 312

Pectoral cross of Constantine IX, Monomachus (1000–1054 A.D.) 321

Page 17

Great pearl necklace of the French crown jewels 332

The Siamese Prince in full regalia 336

Half-pearls: lots of three different sizes. Brooch of half-pearls and onyx,
United States, 1860 343

Pearl nose rings, Baroda, India. East Indian earring of strings of pearls and
table diamonds. Grape pendants. Oriental pearls 345

Necklace containing 126,000 seed-pearls, Louis XVI period 346

Seed-pearls and gold; Chinese ornaments of the nineteenth century.
Complete set of seed-pearl jewelry in original case 357

Persian princess and ladies in waiting 364

Facsimiles of the title-page and last leaf of an enactment abolishing duty on
pearls, English Parliament, 1732 368

Pearl drilling 376

Pearl stringing 383

Necklace of seed-pearls, United States, Civil War period 389

Mother-of-pearl shell from Tahiti 390

Ladies’ sewing case and scissors inlaid with half-pearls; watches incrusted
with half-pearls; snuff-box, ivory inlaid with fresh-water pearls;
miniature surrounded by half-pearls 395

Evolution of a seed-pearl brooch. Seed-pearls, Indian strings. White
horsehair for stringing 396

Facsimile of letter of M. Gaston Mogeaud, Director of the Louvre 398

Madame Thiers’s pearl necklace, bequeathed to the Louvre Museum, Paris 398
(From a photograph by A. Giraudon)

Antique ornaments of pearls 404

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Tyszkiewizc bronze statuette of Aphrodite 407

Pearl earrings from Herculaneum and Pompeii 408

Antique pearl ornaments 410

East Indian necklace of pearls, table diamonds, glass beads, gold and
enamel 413

Crown of Reccesvinthus and other Gothic crowns of the seventh century 416
(From a photograph by A. Giraudon)

Her Majesty, Queen Alexandra of Great Britain and Ireland, Empress of
India 418
(From a photograph by W. & D. Downey, London)

Crown of St. Edward 424
(From “The English Regalia,” published by Kegan Paul, Trench, Trübner
& Company, Ltd., London)

The Empress Dowager of China 431

Pearl ornaments of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries 434

Margherita, Dowager Queen of Italy 439

Collection of black pearls belonging to an American lady 440

Señora Carmen Romero Rubio de Diaz, wife of President Porfirio Diaz of
Mexico 442
(From a photograph by Valleto & Co., Mexico)

Jade jar inlaid with pearls set with fine gold. Japanese decoration set with
pearls 444

Gaikwar of Baroda, 1908 450

Mary, Queen of Scots 453
(From “Portraits and Jewels of Mary Stuart,” published by James
MacLehose and Sons, Glasgow)

Queen Elizabeth of England. Elizabeth of France 456

Page 19

Pearl carpet or shawl of the Gaikwar of Baroda 460

The Hope pearl. Weighs 1800 grains 463

Her Grace, the Duchess of Marlborough 465
(From a photograph by Lafayette, Ltd., London)

The Madame Nordica collection of colored pearls 468

Grand pearl diadem of the French crown jewels 471

The Imperial Austrian crown 472

The Great Sévigné of the French crown jewels 474

Madame Nordica 476

Mrs. George J. Gould 480

Fresh-water pearls from Hopewell group of mounds, Ross County, Ohio 499

Fresh-water pearls from Hopewell group of mounds, Ross County, Ohio 510

Page 20

MAPS

PAGE

The pearling regions in Ceylon and British India 129

Persian Gulf and the Red Sea, the pearling center of the world 140

The pearling regions in Oceania and Malaysia 191

Venezuela and Panama, the principal pearling regions of South America 227

Gulf of California and the pearling territory of western Mexico 243

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INTRODUCTION

The preparation of this book has been a joint labor during the spare
moments of the two authors, whose time has been occupied with subjects to
which pearls are not wholly foreign—one as a gem expert, and the other in
the fisheries branch of the American government. But for the views and
expressions contained herein, they alone are personally responsible, and do
not represent or speak for any interest whatever. For many years the writers
have collected data on the subject of pearls, and have accumulated all the
obtainable literature, not only the easily procurable books, but likewise
manuscripts, copies of rare volumes, original edicts, and legislative
enactments, thousands of newspaper clippings, and interesting illustrations,
many of them unique, making probably the largest single collection of data
in existence on this particular subject. It was deemed advisable to present
the results of these studies and observations in one harmonious volume,
rather than in two different publications. This publication is not a pioneer in
an untrodden field. As may be seen from the appended bibliography, during
the last two thousand years hundreds of persons have discussed pearls—
mystically, historically, poetically, and learnedly. Among the older writers
who stand out with special prominence in their respective periods are the
encyclopedist Pliny, in the first century A.D.; Oviedo and Peter Martyr of the
sixteenth century; the physician Anselmus De Boot, and that observant
traveler and prince of jewelers, Tavernier, in the seventeenth century. It
would be difficult to do justice to the many writers of the nineteenth century
and of the present time; but probably most attention has been attracted by
the writings of Hessling and Möbius of Germany; Kelaart, Streeter,
Herdman, and Hornell of Great Britain; Filippi of Italy, and Seurat and
Dubois of France. While the book is a joint work in the sense that each
writer has contributed material to all of the chapters and has critically
examined and approved the entire work, the senior author has more closely

Page 22

applied himself to the latter half of the text, covering antiquity values,
commerce, wearing manipulation, treatment, famous collections, aboriginal
use, and the illustrations, while the junior author has attended to the earlier
half of the book, with reference to history, origin, sources, fisheries, culture,
mystical properties, and the literature of the pearl.
The senior author has had exceptionally favorable opportunities to
examine the precious objects contained in the various imperial and royal
treasuries. Through the courtesy of the late Count Sipuigine, Court
Chamberlain, and of the late General Philamanoff, custodian of the
Ourejena Palata, he was permitted to critically examine the Russian crown
jewels in the Summer Palace on the Neva, and in the Palata in the Kremlin,
at Moscow, he examined the crowns and jewels of all the early czars.
Through the courtesy of Baron von Theile, he was permitted to inspect
carefully and in detail the wonderful jewels of the Austrian crown, which
are beautifully ordered and arranged. The English and Saxon crown jewels
were also seen under favorable conditions which permitted detailed
examination, and the jewel collections of almost all the principal museums
of Europe and America were carefully studied. As regards the literature of
the subject, the senior author has gathered together the largest known
existing collection of works treating of pearls and precious stones.
In covering so comprehensive a subject, many obligations have been
incurred from individuals and officials, to whose courtesy and assistance is
due much of the interest of this work. To list all of these is impossible, yet it
would be ungrateful not to note the following: her Majesty Queen
Margherita of Italy; his Royal Highness the Gaikwar of Baroda; to H. R. H.
le Prince Ruprecht of Bavaria, of Munich; to the late Prince Sipuigine, then
chamberlain of the Russian Imperial Appanages; to Sir Edward Robert
Pearce Edgcumbe for data relative to fisheries of East Africa; Dr. H. C.
Bumpus, director of the American Museum of Natural History, New York,
for many courtesies in regard to materials and illustrations; Sir Caspar
Purdon Clarke, director, Dr. Edward Robinson, assistant director, J. H.
Buck, curator of Metal-work, and A. G. St. M. D’Hervilly, assistant curator
of Paintings, all of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, for numerous
courtesies; Archer M. Huntington, founder of the Hispanic Society and
Museum in New York City; Dr. Bashford Dean, Prof. Friedrich Hirth,
Chinese professor, Dr. Berthold Laufer, Prof. A. V. Williams Jackson,
professor of Indo-Iranian languages, and Prof. M. H. Saville, all of

Page 23

Columbia University, New York City; J. Pierpont Morgan, for the right to
publish the illustration of Ashburnham missal; Dr. W. Hayes Ward,
Assyriologist; Dr. Charles S. Braddock, formerly Chief of Medical
Inspection for the King of Siam; Robert Hoe, for the two plates of unique
Persian illustrations from his manuscripts; Edmund Russell, for East Indian
material; F. Cunliffe-Owen, the author of diplomatic subjects; Ten Broeck
Morse; Walter Joslyn; Stansbury Hagar; Henri de Morgan, explorer; Dr.
Nathaniel L. Britton, director New York Botanical Garden, J. H. Lawles,
and Ludwig Stross, for many courtesies; Miss M. de Barril and Miss Belle
da Costa Greene, all of New York; Dr. Stewart W. Culin, of the Brooklyn
Institute of Arts and Sciences; the Contessa Casa Cortez, for Peruvian
information, of Brooklyn; Dr. Charles B. Davenport, of the Carnegie
Institution Laboratory, Cold Spring Harbor; Arthur C. Parker, archæologist,
State Museum, Albany, N. Y.; A. S. Clark, antiquarian, Peekskill, N. Y.; Dr.
Richard Rathbun, assistant secretary, Dr. Cyrus Adler, curator, Dr. Otis S.
Mason, curator of Ethnology, all of the Smithsonian Institution; Dr. S. W.
Stratton, chief of the Bureau of Standards; Miss E. R. Scidmore; Gilbert H.
Grosvenor, editor, National Geographic Magazine; Hon. William Eleroy
Curtis; his Excellency Enrique C. Creel, Embajador de Mexico, and James
T. Archbold, war correspondent, all of Washington, D. C.; Prof. W. P.
Wilson, director Philadelphia Commercial Museum, Clarence B. Moore,
Academy of Natural Sciences, and T. Louis Comparette, curator
Numismatic Collection, U. S. Mint, all of Philadelphia; Prof. Henry
Montgomery, University of Toronto, Toronto, Canada; Dr. Warren K.
Moorehead, archæologist, Andover, Mass.; H. D. Story, and Theo. M.
Davis, curators of the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, Mass.; Miss
Mathilde Laigle of Wellesley College; Prof. F. W. Putnam and Alfred M.
Tozzer, Peabody Museum of Archæology, Cambridge, Mass.; Prof. Edward
S. Morse, Salem, Mass.; Dr. Hiram Bingham, Yale University; W. E. Frost,
Providence, R. I.; Dr. Edgar J. Banks, University of Chicago, Chicago, Ill.;
Hon. F. J. V. Skiff, director, for several photographs of museum material,
and Dr. George A. Dorsey, curator of Anthropology of the Field Columbian
Museum; Dr. A. R. Crook, curator of the Museum of Natural History,
Springfield, Ill.; Richard Hermann, director Hermann Museum, Dubuque,
Ia.; Charles Russell Orcutt, San Diego, Cal.; David I. Bushnell, St. Louis,
Mo.; Dr. J. H. Stanton, Prairie du Chien, Wis.; Joe Gassett, Clinton, Tenn.;
Prof. Wm. C. Mills, University of Ohio, Columbus, O., for material

Page 24

covering the new Ohio mound discoveries; Mrs. Marie Robinson Wright,
author and South American traveler, New York City; Miss Helen Woolley
of Judson College, Alabama; Prof. Dr. Eugene Hussak, Rio Janeiro; Hon.
George E. Anderson, Consul General of the United States, Rio de Janeiro,
Brazil; Señor L. E. Bonilla, Consul General of Colombia; Madam Zelia
Nuttall, Coyoacan, Mexico; Prof. Waldstein, University of Cambridge,
Cambridge, England; Dr. O. F. Bell, assistant keeper Ashmolean Museum,
Oxford; Dr. Stephen W. Bushell, Chinese authority; Lady Christopher
Johnston, Dr. William F. Petrie, University College, Dr. Charles Hercules
Read, director of the department of Archæology, British Museum, for
illustrations and data; Cyril Davenport, antiquarian writer of the British
Museum, for the illustration of the English crown, and crown information;
to Sir John Evans, late veteran archæologist and writer; Thomas Tyrer,
chemist, W. Talbot Ready, A. W. Feaveryear, E. Alfred Jones, author on
metal-work, Edwin W. Streeter, all of London, England; Prof. H. P.
Blackmore, curator Blackmore Museum, Salisbury, England; Dr. Thos.
Gann, Harrogate, England; Prof. Arthur E. Shipley, Cambridge, England;
Dr. Wilfred Grenfell, Labrador; T. W. Lyster, librarian of the National
Library of Ireland, Prof. R. F. Scharff, director of the National Museum of
Ireland, Dublin, W. Forbes Hourie, all of Ireland; Mr. James Hornell, Dr. W.
A. Herdmann, all on information concerning the Ceylon fisheries; Prof.
James M. Milne, Belfast, Ireland; David MacGregor, Perth, Scotland;
Joseph Baer & Co., Frankfurt, Germany; Herrn C. W. Kesseller, Idar,
Germany; Prof. Dr. Carl Sapper, University of Tübingen, Germany;
Geheimrath Prof. Dr. Max Bauer, University of Marburg, Germany; Herrn
Prof. Dr. Hofer, director Biologische Versuchsstation, Munich; Herrn Ernst
Gideon Bek, Pforzheim, Germany; Hon. Albert H. Michelsen, American
Consul at Turin; Sabbatino De Angelis, of Naples, Italy; Mons. Alphonse
Falco, of the Chambre Syndicale Pierres Précieuses of Paris; Prof. A.
Lacroix, Musée Histoire Naturale, Paris; Mons. Georges Pellisier, Paris; Sr.
Gaston J. Vives, La Paz, Mexico; Prof. R. Dubois, Faculté des Sciences,
University of Lyons, France; Prof. P. Candias, director of the National
Museum, Athens, Greece; Prof. G. A. F. Molengraaff, University of Delft,
Holland; the late Prof. Dr. Furtwängler of Munich; Dr. Otto Leiner, Custus
Landes-Museum at Constanz, Baden; Herrn Dr. A. B. Meyer, Herrn Carl
Marfels, Berlin; Prof. Dr. H. Schumacher, University of Bonn; Geheimrath
C. F. Hintze, Breslau; Herrn R. Friedlaender & Sohn, Berlin; Herrn Reg.-

Page 25

Rath Dr. W. von Seidlitz, Dresden; Dr. R. Jacobi, director König
Zoologichen Museum, Dresden, Germany; his Excellency Dr. Szalaz,
director Hungarian National Museum; Dr. S. Radischi, director National
Industrial Museum of Budapest; and to Herrn A. B. Bachrach, Budapest,
Hungary; Frau Melanie Glazer, of Prague, and Herrn V. Fric, Prague,
Bohemia; Herrn Prof. Dr. F. Heger, Custus Imperial Archæological
Collection, Vienna; Herrn H. von Willer and Herrn Max Zirner, of Vienna;
Herrn Leopold Weininger, the artisan goldsmith of Austria, for many
courtesies; Prof. W. Vernadskij, University of Moscow; Mons. C. Faberje,
Joaillier de la Cour, St. Petersburg, Russia; his Excellency Baron P.
Meyerdorff, assistant director, Musée des Antiques, Ermitage Impériale, St.
Petersburg, for important data and illustrations; his Excellency N. J. Moore,
Premier, Western Australia; Dr. K. Van Dort, engineer of Bankok, Siam; Dr.
J. Henry Burkill, of the India Museum, Calcutta, India; Alphaeus E.
Williams, manager of the De Beers Mine, Kimberley; Capt. E. L. Steever,
District Governor of Jolo, Philippine Islands; Dr. T. Nishikawa, Zoölogical
Institute; K. Mikimoto, both of Tokio, Japan; Dr. S. M. Zwemer of Bahrein,
Persian Gulf; Mr. Hugh Millman of Thursday Island, Australia; Julius D.
Dreher, American Consul at Tahiti, Society Islands; and not least, by any
means, the uniform promptness and completeness with which the officials
of the British Colonial Service have responded to the many inquiries which
the writers have addressed to them.
The Authors.

September, 1908.

Page 26

I
PEARLS AMONG THE ANCIENTS

Page 27

THE BOOK OF THE PEARL

I
PEARLS AMONG THE ANCIENTS

The richest merchandise of all, and the most soveraigne commoditie throughout the whole world,
are these pearles.
Pliny, Historia naturalis.
Lib. IX, c. 35.

P
erfected by nature and requiring no art to enhance their beauty,
pearls were naturally the earliest gems known to prehistoric man.
Probably the members of some fish-eating tribe—maybe of the
coast of India or bordering an Asiatic river—while opening
mollusks for food, were attracted by their luster. And as man’s estimation of
beauty developed, he found in them the means of satisfying that fondness
for personal decoration so characteristic of half-naked savages, which has
its counterpart amid the wealth and fashion of the present day.
Pearls seem to be peculiarly suggestive of oriental luxury and
magnificence. It is in the East that they have been especially loved,
enhancing the charms of Asiatic beauty and adding splendor to barbaric
courts celebrated for their display of costume. From their possession of the
rich pearl resources it is natural that the people of India and of Persia should
have early found beauty and value in these jewels, and should have been
among the first to collect them in large quantities. And no oriental divinity,

Page 28

no object of veneration has been without this ornament; no poetical
production has lacked this symbol of purity and chastity.
In a personal memorandum, Dr. A. V. Williams Jackson, professor of
Indo-Iranian languages in Columbia University, states that it is generally
supposed that the Vedas, the oldest sacred books of the Brahmans, contain
several allusions to pearl decorations a millennium or more before the
Christian era, as the word krisana and its derivatives—which occur a half
dozen times in the Rigveda, the oldest of the Vedas—are generally
translated as signifying “pearl.” Even if this interpretation of the term be
called into question on the ground that the Hindus of the Panjab were not
well acquainted with the sea, there can be little or no doubt that the
Atharvaveda, at least five hundred years before the Christian era, alludes to
an amulet made of pearls and used as a sort of talisman in a hymn[1] of
magic formulas.
Those two great epics of ancient India, the Ramayana and the
Mahabharata, refer to pearls. The Ramayana speaks of a necklace of
twenty-seven pearls, and has pearl drillers to accompany a great military
expedition.[2] An old myth recounts the offerings made by the elements as
gifts worthy of the deity: the air offered the rainbow, the fire a meteor, the
earth a ruby, and the sea a pearl. The rainbow formed a halo about the god,
the meteor served as a lamp, the ruby decorated the forehead, and the pearl
was worn upon the heart.
The literature of Hinduism frequently associates the pearl with Krishna,
the eighth avatar or incarnation of Vishnu, the most popular god of Hindu
worship. One legend credits its discovery to the adorable Krishna, who
drew it from the depths of the sea to adorn his daughter Pandaïa on her
nuptial day. Another version makes the pearl a trophy of the victory of
Krishna over the monster Pankagna, and it was used by the victor as a
decoration for his bride.
In the classic period of Sanskrit literature, about the first century of the
Christian era, there were abundant references to pearls, generally called
mukta (literally “the pure”); and there are dozens of words for pearl
necklaces, circlets, strings, and ornamental festoons, particularly in the
dramas of Kalidasa—the Hindu Shakspere, who lived about the third
century A.D.—and of his successors.

Page 29

In the Mahavansa and the Dipavansa, the ancient chronicle histories of
Ceylon in the Pali language, are several early Cingalese records of pearl
production and estimation.[3] The Mahavansa lists pearls among the native
products sent from Ceylon about 550 B.C., King Wijayo sending his father-
in-law gifts of pearls and chanks to the value of two lacs of rupees; and
notes that about 300 B.C., several varieties of Ceylon pearls were carried as
presents by an embassy to India.

Ancient Chinese crown with
pearls

Ancient Chinese pearl rosary

Page 30

Chinese priests keeping guard
over the tombs of the kings, in
Mukden, where the crowns
are preserved

In the ancient civilization of China, pearls were likewise esteemed; this is
evidenced by the frequent mention of them in traditional history, their
employment in the veneration of idols, and as tribute by foreign princes to
the emperor. One of the very earliest of books, the Shu King (dating from
about 2350–625 B.C.), notes that, in the twenty-third century B.C., Yü
received as tribute oyster pearls from the river Hwai, and from the province
of King Kau he received “strings of pearls that were not quite round.”[4]
That ancient Chinese dictionary, the Nh’ya, originating thirty centuries ago,
speaks of them as precious jewels found in the province of Shen-si on the
western frontier.
Many fantastic theories regarding pearls are to be found in ancient
Chinese literature. Some writers credited them as originating in the brain of
the fabled dragon; others noted that they were especially abundant during
the reign of illustrious emperors, and they were used as amulets and charms
against fire and other disasters. Curious allusions were made to pearls so
brilliant that they were visible at a distance of nearly a thousand yards, or
that rice could be cooked by the light from them. And one found about the
beginning of the Christian era, near Yangchow-fu, in the province of Kiang-
su, was reported so lustrous as to be visible in the dark at a distance of three
miles.
In Persia, the popularity of pearls seems to date from a very early period.
Professor Jackson states that if they are not mentioned in the extant

Page 31

fragments of the ancient Zoroastrian literature, the Avesta and the Pahlavi,
or by the Middle Persian books from the seventh century B.C. to the ninth
century A.D., it is probably a mere accident, due to the character of the work
or to the fragmentary condition of the literature; for pearls were well known
during that entire period, and seem to be indicated in extant sculptures. The
coin and the gem portraits of Persian queens commonly show ear-pendants
of these. The remains of a magnificent necklace of pearls and other gems
were recently found by J. de Morgan in the sarcophagus of an Achæmenid
princess exhumed at Susa or Shushan, the winter residence of the kings of
Persia. This necklace, perhaps the most ancient pearl ornament still in
existence, dates certainly from not later than the fourth century B.C., and is
now preserved in the Persian Gallery of the Louvre.[5] Even if we had no
other evidence, it would be natural to assume that the knowledge of pearls
was as wide-spread among the Iranians in antiquity as it was among the
Hindus, since the Persian Gulf, like the Indian Ocean, has been famous for
its fisheries from ancient times.
In the ruins of Babylon no pearls have been found; indeed, it would be
surprising if they could survive for so many ages in the relatively moist soil
which contains much saltpeter. Inlays of mother-of-pearl and decorations of
this material have been secured from the ruins of Bismaya, which Dr. Edgar
J. Banks refers to about 4500 B.C.
There is likewise little evidence that pearls were extensively employed
by the ancient Assyrians, notwithstanding that excavations at Nineveh and
Nimrud have furnished much information regarding their ornaments; and
the collars, bracelets, sword-hilts, etc., wrought in gold and ornamented
with gems, show that the jewelers’ art had made much progress. This is not
wholly trustworthy as determining the relative abundance; for being of
organic or non-mineral origin, pearls would not have survived the burial for
thousands of years so well as the crystal gems. An inscription on the
Nineveh Obelisk, which states, according to Sir Henry Rawlinson, that in
the ninth year of his reign Temenbar received, as “tribute of the kings of the
Chaldees, gold, silver, gems, and pearls,”[6] shows that the sea-born gems
were highly valued there.
The mother-of-pearl shell was in use as an ornament in ancient Egypt
certainly as early as the sixth dynasty (circa 3200 B.C.), the period of the
Tanis Sphinx. In a recent letter from Luxor, where he is studying the ruins

Page 32

of ancient Thebes, Dr. James T. Dennis states that he has found several of
these shells bearing cartouches of that period; and in the “pan-bearing
graves” of the twelfth dynasty (2500 B.C.), the shell occurred not only
complete, but cut in roughly circular or oblong angular blocks and strung on
chains with beads of carnelian, pottery, etc.
So far as can be determined from the representations of ancient Egyptian
costumes, pearls do not seem to have been employed to any great extent in
their decoration. The necklaces, earrings, and other jewels found in the
tombs, which are composed largely of gold set with crystal gems, contain
the remains of a few pearls, but give no indication that they were numerous.
In fact, no evidence exists that they were used extensively before the
Persian conquest in the fifth century B.C.; and probably it was not until the
time of the Ptolemies that there began the lavish abundance which
characterized the court of Alexandria at the height of her power.
The authorities differ in regard to the mention of pearls in ancient
Hebrew literature; although in the Authorized Version of the Old Testament,
this significance has been given to the word gabîsh in Job xxviii. 18, where
the value of wisdom is contrasted with that of gabîsh. Some writers claim
that this word refers to rock crystal. Other authorities are of the opinion that
the word peninim in Lam. iv. 7, which has been translated as “rubies,”
actually signifies pearls. In Gen. ii. 12, Prof. Paul Haupt has proposed to
render shoham stones by pearls, since the Hebrew word translated “onyx,”
if connected with the Assyrian sându, might mean “the gray gem.” It does
not appear that they entered into the decorations of the Tabernacle and the
Temple, or were largely employed in the paraphernalia of the synagogue.
In the New Testament, however, there are numerous references to the
estimation in which pearls were held. In his teachings, Christ repeatedly
referred to them as typifying something most precious: “The kingdom of
heaven is like unto a merchant man, seeking goodly pearls: who, when he
had found one pearl of great price, went and sold all that he had, and bought
it” (Matt. xiii. 45, 46); and in “casting pearls before swine,” in that great
Sermon on the Mount (Matt. vii. 6). In picturing the glories of the Heavenly
City, St. John made the twelve gates of pearls (Rev. xxi. 21); and what
could better serve as portals through the walls of precious stones?
In the Talmud, pearls are frequently mentioned, and usually as signifying
something beautiful or very costly, as “a pearl that is worth thousands of

Page 33

zuzim” (Baba Batra, 146a); a “pearl that has no price” (Yerushalmi, ix.
12d); the coats which God made for Adam and Eve were “as beautiful as
pearls” (Gen. R. xx. 12), and the manna was “as white as a pearl” (Yoma,
75a). Their purchase formed one of the exceptions to the law of Ona’ah
(overcharge), for the reason that two matched pearls greatly exceeded the
value of each one separately (Baba Mezi’a, iv. 8).
The high value attached to pearls by the ancient Hebrews is illustrated by
a beautiful Rabbinical story in which only one object in nature is ranked
above them. On approaching Egypt, Abraham hid Sarah in a chest, that
foreign eyes might not behold her beauty. When he reached the place for
paying custom dues, the collectors said, “Pay us the custom”; and he
replied, “I will pay your custom.” They said to him, “Thou carriest clothes”;
and he stated, “I will pay for clothes.” Then they said to him, “Thou carriest
gold”; and he answered, “I will pay for gold.” On this they said to him,
“Surely thou bearest the finest silk”; and he replied, “I will pay custom for
the finest silk.” Then said they, “Truly it must be pearls that thou takest with
thee”; and he answered, “I will pay for pearls.” Seeing that they could name
nothing of value for which the patriarch was not willing to pay custom, they
said, “It cannot be but that thou open the box and let us see what is within.”
So the chest was opened, and the land was illumined by the luster of Sarah’s
beauty.[7]
The love which the early Arabs bore to pearls is evidenced by the
references to them in the Koran, and especially the figurative description
given of Paradise. The stones are pearls and jacinths; the fruits of the trees
are pearls and emeralds; and each person admitted to the delights of the
celestial kingdom is provided with a tent of pearls, jacinths and emeralds; is
crowned with pearls of incomparable luster, and is attended by beautiful
maidens resembling hidden pearls.[8]
The estimation of pearls among the art-loving Greeks may be traced to
the time of Homer, who appears to have alluded to them under the name
τρίγληνα (triple drops or beads) in his description of Juno; in the Iliad, XIV,
183:
In three bright drops,
Her glittering gems suspended from her ears.

and in the Odyssey, XVIII, 298:

Page 34

Earrings bright
With triple drops that cast a trembling light.

Classical designs of Juno usually show the three pear-shaped pearls
pendent from her ears. The ancient Greeks probably obtained their pearls
from the East through the medium of Phenician traders, and a survival of
the word τρίγληνα seems to exist in the Welsh glain (bead), the name
having been carried to Britain by the same traders, who exchanged textiles,
glass beads, etc., for tin and salt.
The Persian wars in the fifth century B.C., doubtless extended the
acquaintance which the Greeks had with pearls, as well as with other
oriental products, and increased their popularity. One of the earliest of the
Greek writers to mention pearls specifically appears to have been
Theophrastus (372–287 B.C.), the disciple and successor of Aristotle, who
referred to them under the name μαργαρίτης (margarites), probably derived
from some oriental word like the Sanskrit maracata or the Persian
mirwareed. He stated that pearls were produced by shell-fish resembling the
pinna, only smaller, and were used in making necklaces of great value. In
Pliny’s “Historia naturalis,” that great storehouse of classical learning,
reference is made to many other writers—mostly Greeks—who treated of
gems; but virtually all of these writings have disappeared, except fragments
from Theophrastus, Chares of Mytilene, and Isidorus of Charace.

GRECIAN PEARL AND
GOLD NECKLACE

Of about third century B.C.

Now in Metropolitan Museum
of Art, New York

Page 35

From Greece admiration for pearls quickly extended to Rome, where
they were known under the Greek word margaritæ. However, a more
common name for this gem in Rome was unio, which Pliny explained by
saying that each pearl was unique and unlike any other one. The conclusion
of the historian Ammianus Marcellinus (330–395 A.D.), that it was because
each one was found singly in a shell,[9] seems scarcely correct. Claude de
Saumaise, the French classical scholar, thought that the common name for
an onion was transferred to the pearl, owing to its laminated construction.[10]
According to Pliny, the Romans used the word unio to distinguish a large
perfect pearl from the smaller and less attractive ones, which were called
margaritæ.[11]
It was not until the Mithridatic Wars (88–63 B.C.) and the conquests by
Pompey that pearls were very abundant and popular in Rome, the great
treasures of the East enriching the victorious army and through it the
aristocracy of the republic. In those greatest spectacular functions the world
has ever known—the triumphal processions of the conquering Romans—
pearls had a prominent part. Pliny records that in great Pompey’s triumphal
procession in 61 B.C. were borne thirty-three crowns of pearls and numerous
pearl ornaments, including a portrait of the victor, and a shrine dedicated to
the muses, adorned with the same gems.[12]
The luxuries of Mithridates, the treasures of Alexandria, the riches of the
Orient were poured into the lap of victory-fattened Rome. From that time
the pearl reigned supreme, not only in the enormous prices given for single
specimens, but also in the great abundance in possession of the degenerate
descendants of the victorious Romans. The interior of the temple of Venus
was decorated with pearls. The dress of the wealthy was so pearl-bedecked
that Pliny exclaimed in irony: “It is not sufficient for them to wear pearls,
but they must trample and walk over them”;[13] and the women wore pearls
even in the still hours of the night, so that in their sleep they might be
conscious of possessing the beautiful gems.[14]
It is related that the voluptuous Caligula (12–41 A.D.)—he who raised his
favorite horse Incitatus to the consulship—decorated that horse with a pearl
necklace, and that he himself wore slippers embroidered with pearls; and
the tyrannical Nero (37–68 A.D.), not content with having his scepter and
throne of pearls, provided the actors in his theater with masks and scepters
decorated with them. Thus wrote the observant Philo, the envoy of the Jews

Page 36

to the Emperor Caligula: “The couches upon which the Romans recline at
their repasts shine with gold and pearls; they are splendid with purple
coverings interwoven with pearls and gold.”
Yet not all the men of Rome were enthusiastic over the beautiful “gems
of the sea, which resemble milk and snow,” as the poet Manlius called
them. Even then, as now, there were some faultfinders. The immortal Cæsar
interdicted their use by women beneath a certain rank; Martial and Tibullus
inveighed against them; the witty Horace directed his stinging shafts of
satire against the extravagance. Referring to a woman named Gellia,
Martial wrote: “By no gods or goddesses does she swear, but by her pearls.
These she embraces and kisses. These she calls her brothers and sisters. She
loves them more dearly than her two sons. Should she by some chance lose
them, the miserable woman would not survive an hour.”[15] Hear what stern
old Seneca had to say: “Pearls offer themselves to my view. Simply one for
each ear? No! The lobes of our ladies have attained a special capacity for
supporting a great number. Two pearls alongside of each other, with a third
suspended above, now form a single earring! The crazy fools seem to think
that their husbands are not sufficiently tormented unless they wear the value
of an inheritance in each ear!”[16]
The prices reported for some choice ones at that time seem fabulous. It is
recorded by Suetonius, that the Roman general, Vitellius, paid the expenses
of a military campaign with the proceeds of one pearl from his mother’s
ears: “Atque ex aure matris detractum unionem pigneraverit ad itineris
impensas.” In his “Historia naturalis,” Pliny says that in the first century
[17]
A.D., they ranked first in value among all precious things, and reports
[18]
sixty million sestertii as the value of the two famous pearls—“the
singular and only jewels of the world and even nature’s wonder”—which
Cleopatra wore at the celebrated banquet to Mark Antony. And Suetonius[19]
places at six million sestertii the value of the one presented by Julius Cæsar
as a tribute of love to Servilia, the mother of Brutus, who thus wore
The spoils of nations in an ear,
Changed to the treasure of a shell.

Or, as St. Jerome expressed it in his “Vita Pauli Eremitæ”:
Uno filo villarum insunt pretia.

Page 37

We are told by Ælius Lampridius that an ambassador once brought to
Alexander Severus two remarkably large and heavy pearls for the empress.
The emperor offered them for sale, and as no purchaser was found, he had
them hung in the ears of the statue of Venus, saying: “If the empress should
have such pearls, she would give a bad example to the other women, by
wearing an ornament of so much value that no one could pay for it.”
The word “margarita” was used symbolically to designate the most
cherished object; for instance, a favorite child. In an inscription published
by Fabretti, p. 44, No. 253, the word margaritio has the same significance.
(Sex. Bruttidio juveni margaritioni carissimo, vixit annis II mensibus VII,
diebus XVIII.)[20]
While the ancient writers were familiar with the pearl itself, they knew
little of the fisheries, and related many curious stories which had come to
Athens and Rome. Pliny and Ælianus quoted from Megasthenes that the
pearl-oysters lived in communities like swarms of bees, and were governed
by one remarkable for its size and great age, and which was wonderfully
expert in keeping its subjects out of danger, and that the fishermen
endeavored first to catch this one, so that the others might easily be secured.
Procopius, one of the most entertaining of the old Byzantine chroniclers,
wrote of social relations between the pearl-oysters and the sharks, and of
methods of inducing the growth of pearls.
The principal fisheries of antiquity were in the Persian Gulf, on the coasts
of Ceylon and India, and in the Red Sea. The pearls referred to in ancient
Chinese literature appear to have been taken from the rivers and ponds of
that country, while those in Cochin China and Japan seem to have come
from the adjoining seas. The pearls were distributed among the nations in
control of the fisheries, and from them, other people received collections,
either as presents, in conquest, or by way of trade. History makes no
mention of pearls having been obtained elsewhere than in the Orient up to
the time of Julius Cæsar, when small quantities of inexpensive ones were
collected in Britain by the invading Romans. And in the first century A.D.,
Pliny states that small reddish pearls were found about Italy and in the
Bosphorus Straits near Constantinople.
A number of specimens of pearls of the artistic Greeks and of the
luxurious Romans are yet in existence, and some of these are in a fairly
good state of preservation. A notable and interesting example is a superb

Page 38

Greek necklace of pearls and gold, referred to the third century B.C., and
now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Several earrings now
in that museum, in the Hermitage at St. Petersburg, the British Museum, the
Louvre in Paris, and in the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, are shown in this
book. Some of these may have decorated ears that listened to the comedies
of Aristophanes, the tragedies of Euripides, the philosophies of Plato, or the
oratory of Demosthenes. A number of classic statues have the ears pierced
for earrings, notably the Venus de Medici now in the Tribuna of the Uffizi,
Florence; and a magnificent pair of half-pearls is said to have decorated the
Venus of the Pantheon in Rome.[21] Pearl grape earrings are shown on the
artistic intaglio by Aspasios, representing the bust of the Athene Parthenos
of Phidias, which has been in the Gemmen Münzen Cabinet at Vienna since
1669.
The beautiful Tyszkiewicz bronze statuette of Aphrodite was acquired in
1900 by the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, and has even yet a pearl in a
fairly good state of preservation suspended from each ear by a spiral thread
of gold which passes quite through the gem and also through the lobe of the
ear. This statuette has been described as “the most beautiful bronze Venus
known.”[22] Professor Froehner considers that it belongs nearer to the period
of Phidias (circa 500–430 B.C.) than to that of Praxiteles (circa 400–336
B.C.); but Dr. Edward Robinson does not concur in this opinion, and refers it
to the Hellenic period (circa 330–146 B.C.).
However, considering the very large accumulations, relatively few pearls
of antiquity now remain, and none of these is of great ornamental value.
Those in archæological collections and art museums are more or less
decayed through the ravages of time and accident to which they have been
subjected. While coins, gold jewelry, crystal gems, etc., of ancient
civilizations are relatively numerous, the less durable pearls have not
survived the many centuries of pillage, waste, and burial in the earth.
A well-known instance of this decay is found in the Stilicho pearls, which
owe their prominence to the incident of their long burial. The daughters of
this famous Roman general, who were successively betrothed to the
Emperor Honorius, died in 407 A.D., and were buried with their pearls and
ornaments. In 1526, or more than eleven centuries afterward, in excavating
for an extension of St. Peter’s, the tomb was opened, and the ornaments

Page 39

were found in fair condition, except the pearls, which were as lusterless and
dead as a wreath of last year’s flowers.

Page 40

II

MEDIEVAL AND MODERN HISTORY

Page 41

II
MEDIEVAL AND MODERN HISTORY OF PEARLS

I’ll set thee in a shower of gold, and hail
Rich pearls upon thee.
Antony and Cleopatra, Act II, sc. 5.

T
he popularity of pearls in Rome has its counterpart in the Empire
of the East at Byzantium or Constantinople on its development in
wealth and luxury after becoming the capital of that empire in 330
A.D. Owing to its control of the trade between Asia and Europe,
and the influence of oriental taste and fashion, enormous collections were
made; and for centuries after Rome had been pillaged, this capital was the
focus of all the arts, and pearls were the favorite ornaments. The famous
mosaic in the sanctuary of San Vitale at Ravenna, shows Justinian (483–
565) with his head covered with a jeweled cap, and the Empress Theodora
wearing a tiara encircled by three rows of pearls, and strings of pearls
depend therefrom almost to the waist. In many instances the decorations of
the emperors excelled even those of the most profligate of Roman rulers.
An examination of the coins, from those of Arcadius in 395 to the last
dribble of a long line of obscure rulers when the city was captured and
pillaged by Venetian and Latin adventurers in 1204, shows in the form of
diadems, collars, necklaces, etc., the great quantity of pearls worn by them.
The oldest existing crown in use at the present time, the Hungarian crown
of St. Stephen, which is radiant with pearls, is of Byzantine workmanship.
Outside of Constantinople, the demand and fashion for pearls did not
cease with the downfall of the Roman Empire and the spoliation of Rome in
the fifth century. The treasures accumulated there, and the gems and jewels,
were carried away by the conquering Goths and scattered among the great
territorial lords of western and northern Europe.

Page 42

In the ancient cities of Gaul, in Toulouse and Narbonne, the Ostrogoth
and the Visigoth kings collected enormous treasures. The citadel of
Carcassonne held magnificent spoils brought from the sacking of Rome in
410 by Alaric, king of the Ostrogoths, consisting in part of jewels from the
Temple, these having been carried to Rome after the spoliation of Jerusalem
in 70 A.D. Several beautiful objects of this and somewhat later periods are
yet in existence, notably the Visigothic crowns and crosses, in the Musée de
l’Hôtel de Cluny, Paris, the most beautiful of which are probably the crown
and the cross of Reccesvinthus.[23]
Even as the treasures of Rome were despoiled by the Ostrogoths and the
Visigoths, so, later, their collections were depleted by the military
operations of the Franks, when Narbonne was pillaged; when Toulouse was
sacked by Clovis, or Chlodowig, in 507; when the churches of Barcelona
and Toledo were despoiled by Childebert in 531 and 542; and by various
expeditions in succeeding years.
The military triumphs of the Franks placed them in the highest rank
among the peoples of Europe, in the sixth and seventh centuries, in the
possession of treasures of jewels which enriched their palaces and great
churches. And the taste which the triumphs of war had developed was
maintained by the trade carried on by the Jewish and Syrian merchants. The
inhabitants of Gaul were extremely fond of objects of art, of rich costumes,
and of personal decorations; and the courts of some of the early kings
rivaled in magnificence those of oriental monarchs. Especially was this true
during the reign of King Dagobert (628–638), who competed in splendor
with the rulers of Persia and India. His skilful jeweler, Eligius (588–659),
was raised to the bishopric of Noyon, and eventually—under the name of
St. Eloi—became one of the most popular saints in Gaul. Under direction of
this artistic bishop, the ancient churches received shrines, vestments, and
reliquaries superbly decorated with pearls and other gems. Indeed, for
several centuries following the time of Eligius, the greatest treasures of
jewels seem to have been collected in the churches.
The use of gems in enriching regalia, vestments, and reliquaries in
Europe, advanced greatly during the reign of Charlemagne (768–814); and
princes and bishops competed with each other in the magnificence of their
gifts to the churches, sacrificing their laical jewels for the sacred treasures.
Few of the great ornaments of Charlemagne’s time are now in existence in

Page 43

the original form. Doubtless the most remarkable pieces are the sacred
regalia of the great emperor, preserved among the imperial treasures in
Vienna.

FRONT COVER OF
ASHBURNHAM
MANUSCRIPT OF THE
FOUR GOSPELS

From the ninth century. One
quarter of the actual
dimensions.

Owned by J. Pierpont
Morgan, Esq.

An artistic use for pearls at that time was in the rich and elegant bindings
of the splendidly written missals and chronicles, finished in the highest
degree of excellence and at vast expense. An artist might devote his whole
life to completing a single manuscript, so great was the detail and so
exquisite the finish. Vasari states that Julio Clovio devoted nine years to
painting twenty-six miniatures in the Breviary of the Virgin now in the
royal library at Naples. The library at Rouen has a large missal on which a
monk of St. Andoen is said to have labored for thirty years. These books
were among the most valued possessions of the churches, and their bindings
were enriched with gold and pearls and colored stones. The wealthy
churches had many such volumes; Gregory of Tours states that from
Barcelona in 531 A.D. Childebert brought twenty “evangeliorum capsas” of
pure gold set with gems. Several of these superbly bound volumes are yet in

Page 44

existence, in the Basilica of St. Mark in Venice; in the treasury of the
cathedral at Milan; among the imperial Russian collections in the
Ourejenaya Palata at Moscow, etc.; and they furnish probably the most
reliable examples of artistic jewel work of the Dark Ages.
The most remarkable specimen of these books in America is doubtless
the Ashburnham manuscript of the Four Gospels, now owned by J. Pierpont
Morgan, Esq., which affords an interesting example of the jeweler’s art. For
many centuries it belonged to the Abbey of the Noble Canonesses, founded,
in 834, at Lindau, on Lake Constance. After an extended examination, Mr.
Alexander Nesbit concluded that the rich cover of the manuscript was
probably made between 896 and 899 by order of Emperor Arnulf of the
Carolingian dynasty. Most of the ninety-eight pearls appear to be from fresh
water, and probably all of them were obtained from the rivers of Europe.
This is one of the few remaining pieces of the magnificent ecclesiastical
jeweling of that period.
After the death of Charlemagne, internal dissensions, separations and the
division of the Empire into the nations of Europe, annihilated commerce,
oppressed the people, and impoverished the arts. In the ninth century, the
Normans pillaged many of the palaces and churches in Angoulême, Tours,
Orléans, Rouen, and Paris, and destroyed or carried away large treasures.
The tenth and the eleventh centuries were indeed the Dark Ages in respect
to the cultivation of the arts; yet even during that period the churches of
western Europe received many gems from penitent and fear-stricken
subjects. The heart of man, filled with the love of God, laid its earthly
treasure upon the altar in exchange for heavenly consolation. Pious faith
dedicated pearls to the glorification of the ritual; altars, statues, and images
of the saints, priestly vestments, and sacred vessels, were surcharged with
them. The great museums and the imperial collections contain some
beautiful and highly venerated objects of this nature.
In the meantime pearls of small size and of fair luster had been collected
in the rivers of Scotland, Ireland, and France, the headwaters of the Danube,
and in the countries north thereof. In England, as noted in the preceding
chapter, they were obtained by Cæsar’s invading legions, who carried many
to Rome. Ancient coins indicate that pearls formed the principal ornament
of the simple crowns worn by the early kings of Britain previous to Alfred
the Great.

Page 45

The river pearls were not so beautiful as oriental ones; but, owing to the
ease with which they were obtained, they were employed more extensively
and especially in ecclesiastical decorations, the principal use for pearls from
the eighth to the eleventh century. Apparently authentic specimens of fresh-
water pearls of an early period are the four now in the coronation spoon of
the English regalia, which is attributed to the twelfth century.
From the most ancient times until the overthrow of the Roman Empire,
practically the only use for pearls was ornamental; but after the eighth
century there developed a new employment for these as well as for other
gems. Natural history was little studied in Europe from the ninth to the
fourteenth century, except for the effect which its subjects had in medicine
and magic, which were closely allied. Largely through Arabic influence, the
practice of medicine had developed into administering most whimsical
remedies, among which gems, and especially pearls, played a prominent
part, and belief in the influence of these was as strong as in that of the
heavenly bodies. For this application, large demands had arisen for pearls,
which seem to have been prescribed for nearly every ill to which the flesh
was heir. On account of their cheapness, the small ones—seed-pearls—were
used principally; though larger ones were preferred by persons who could
afford them. While many of these so-called medicinal pearls were obtained
from the Orient, most of them were secured from the home streams in the
north of Europe and in the British Isles.
After the decadence of Roman power in the East, the rulers of India and
Persia, through their control of the fisheries, again accumulated enormous
quantities of pearls. All of the early travelers to those countries were
astonished at the lavish display of these gems in decorative costume.
The manuscript of Renaudot’s two Mohammedans, who visited India and
China in the ninth century, notes that the kings of the Indies were rich in
ornaments, “yet pearls are what they most esteem, and their value surpasses
that of all other jewels; they hoard them up in their treasures with their most
precious things. The grandees of the court, the great officers and captains,
wear the like jewels in their collars.”[24]

Page 46

FRANCIS I, KING OF
FRANCE, 1494–1547

Louvre, Paris

ISABELLE DE VALOIS

By Pantoia de la Cruz, Prado
Museum, Madrid

Inventories of some of the oriental collections of later times seem to be
extravagant fiction rather than veritable history. In that interesting book
dictated in a Genoese prison to Rusticiano da Pisa, accounts are given by
Marco Polo of great treasures seen by the first Europeans to penetrate into
China. He describes the king of Malabar as wearing suspended about his

Page 47

neck a string of 104 large pearls and rubies of great value, which he used as
a rosary. Likewise on his legs were anklets and on his toes were rings, all
thickly set with costly pearls, the whole “worth more than a city’s ransom.
And ’tis no wonder he hath great store of such gear; for they are found in
his kingdom. No one is permitted to remove therefrom a pearl weighing
more than half a saggio. The king desires to reserve all such to himself, and
so the quantity he has is almost incredible.”[25]
Later travelers give wonderful descriptions of this excessive passion for
pearls. Literature is full of this appreciation, and of the part which these
gems played in the affairs of the Orientals. Who has not dwelt with delight
upon those imperishable legends such as are embodied in the Arabian
Nights, of the pearl voyages by Sindbad the Sailor, of the wonderful
treasure chests, and of the superb necklaces adorning the beautiful black-
eyed women!
The returning Crusaders in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and the
development of the knightly orders, had much to do with spreading through
Europe a fondness for pearls in personal decoration. Those who, like
Chaucer’s knight, had been with Peter, King of Cyprus, at the capture and
plunder when “Alexandria was won,” returned to their homes with riches of
pearls and gold and precious stones. And learning much relative to
decorative art from Moorish craftsmen, the jewelers of western Europe set
these in designs not always crude and ineffective.
Although they were well known and valued, pearls do not seem to have
been much used in England before the twelfth century, as the Anglo-Saxons
were not an especially art-loving people. The word itself is of foreign
derivation and occurs in a similar form in all modern languages, both
Romance and Teutonic; perle, French and German; perla, Italian,
Portuguese, Provençal, Spanish, and Swedish; paarl, Danish and Dutch. Its
origin is doubtful. Some philologists consider it Teutonic and the
diminutive of beere, a berry; Claude de Saumaise derives it from pirula, the
diminutive of pirum, a sphere; while Diez and many others refer it to pira
or to the medieval Latin pirula, in allusion to the pear shape frequently
assumed by the pearl.[26]
The word pearl seems to have come into general use in the English
language about the fourteenth century. In Wyclif’s translation of the
Scriptures (about 1360), he commonly used the word margarite or

Page 48

margaritis, whereas Tyndale’s translation (1526) in similar places used the
word perle. Tyndale translated Matt. xiii. 46: “When he had founde one
precious pearle”; Wyclif used “oo preciouse margarite.” Also in Matt. vii. 6,
Tyndale wrote, “Nether caste ye youre pearles before swyne”; yet Wyclif
used “margaritis,” although twenty years later he expressed it “putten
precious perlis to hoggis.” Langland’s Piers Plowman (1362), XI, 9, wrote
this: “Noli mittere Margeri perles Among hogges.” The oldest English
version of Mandeville’s Travels, written about 1400, contained the
expression: “The fyn Perl congeles and wexes gret of the dew of hevene”;
but in 1447, Bokenham’s “Seyntys” stated: “A margerye perle aftyr the
phylosophyr Growyth on a shelle of lytyl pryhs”; and Knight de la Tour
(about 1450) stated: “The sowle is the precious marguarite unto God.”
The word is given “perle” in the earliest manuscripts of those old epic
poems of the fourteenth century, “Pearl” and “Cleanness,” which have
caused so much learned theological discussion and which testify to the great
love and esteem in which the gem was held. The first stanza of “Pearl” we
quote from Gollancz’s rendition:
Pearl! fair enow for princes’ pleasance,
so deftly set in gold so pure,—
from orient lands I durst avouch,
ne’er saw I a gem its peer,—
so round, so comely-shaped withal,
so small, with sides so smooth,—
where’er I judged of radiant gems,
I placed my pearl supreme.[27]

The fourteenth-century manuscript in the British Museum gives this as
follows:
Perle plesaunte to prynces paye,
To clanly clos in gold so clere,
Oute of oryent I hardyly saye,
Ne proved I never her precios pere,—
So rounde, so reken in uche a raye,
So smal, so smothe her sydez were,—
Queresoever I jugged gemmez gaye,
I sette hyr sengeley in synglere.

And from a modern rendering of “Cleanness” we quote:

Page 49

The pearl is praised wherever gems are seen,
though it be not the dearest by way of merchandise.
Why is the pearl so prized, save for its purity,
that wins praise for it above all white stones?
It shineth so bright; it is so round of shape;
without fault or stain; if it be truly a pearl.

In the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries throughout Europe pearls were
very fashionable as personal ornaments, and were worn in enormous
quantities; the dresses of men as well as of women were decorated and
embroidered with them, and they were noted in nearly every account of a
festive occasion, whether it were a marriage, a brilliant tourney, the
consecration of a bishop, or the celebration of a victory in battle.
The faceting of crystal gems was not known at that time, and those
dependent on artifice for their beauty were not much sought after. Although
the diamond had been known from the eighth century, it was not generally
treasured as an ornament, and not until long after the invention of cutting in
regular facets—about 1450—did it attain its great popularity.
In the Dark Ages, it was customary for princes and great nobles to carry
their valuables about with them even on the battle-fields; first, in order to
have them always in possession, and second, on account of the mysterious
power they attributed to precious stones. Since jewels constituted a large
portion of their portable wealth, nobles and knights went into battle
superbly arrayed. In this manner the treasures were easily lost and
destroyed; consequently, relatively few of the personal ornaments of that
period are preserved to the present time.
Among the greatest lovers of pearls in the fourteenth and fifteenth
centuries were the members of the ducal house of Burgundy, and especially
Philip the Bold (1342–1404), Philip the Good (1396–1467), and Charles the
Bold (1433–77), and some of the gems which they owned are even now
treasured in Austria, Spain, and Italy. When Duke Charles the Bold, in the
year 1473, attended the Diet of Treves, accompanied by his five thousand
splendidly equipped horsemen, he was attired in cloth of gold garnished
with pearls, which were valued at 200,000 golden florins.[28] We are told
that “almost a sea of pearls” was on view at the marriage of George the
Rich with Hedwig, the daughter of Casimir III of Poland, at Landshut, in
1475. Among the many ornaments was a pearl chaplet valued at 50,000
florins which Duke George wore on his hat, and also a clasp worth 6000

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florins.[29] Members of the related houses of Anjou and Valois also held
great collections. Nor in this account should we omit some of the English
sovereigns, including especially Richard II (1366–1400), one of the greatest
dandies of his day.
During the fifteenth century, enormous quantities of pearls were worn by
persons of rank and fashion. A remarkable 1483 portrait of Margaret, wife
of James III of Scotland, which is now preserved at Hampton Court, shows
her wearing such wonderful pearl ornaments that she might well be called
Margaret from her decorations. As this queen was praised for her beauty, we
fear the artist has scarcely done justice to her appearance; or possibly since
that period tastes have changed as to what on a throne passes for beauty.
Her head-dress is undoubtedly the most remarkable pearl decoration which
we have seen of that century.
The uxorious and sumptuous Henry VIII of England (1491–1547) spent
much of the great wealth accumulated by his penurious father, Henry VII,
in enriching the appearance of his semi-barbaric court. In this reign, the
spoliation of the Catholic cathedrals and churches contributed many pearls
to the royal treasury; and onward from that time, they were prominently
displayed among the ornaments of the women of rank in England. Most of
the portraits of Henry’s wives show great quantities of these gems; many of
them with settings doubtless designed by artistic Hans Holbein the Younger
(1497–1543); and during the succeeding reigns the women near the throne
were commonly depicted with elaborate pearl decorations.
The cold, unflattering portraits by Holbein of the court celebrities of that
period, not only of the gracious women and of the dandified men, but of the
clergy as well, show the prominence of pearls. Note his portrait of Jane
Seymour, of Anne of Cleves, of Christina of Denmark, and the pearl-
incrusted miter of Archbishop Warham of Canterbury.
An interesting story is told of Sir Thomas More, the learned chancellor of
Henry VIII, showing his view of the great display of jewels which
distinguished the period in which he lived:
His sonne John’s wife often had requested her father-in-law, Sir Thomas, to buy her a billiment sett
with pearles. He had often put her off with many pretty slights; but at last, for her importunity, he
provided her one. Instead of pearles, he caused white peaze to be sett, so that at his next coming
home, his daughter-in-law demanded her jewel. “Ay, marry, daughter, I have not forgotten thee!” So
out of his studie he sent for a box, and solemnlie delivered it to her. When she, with great joy, lookt
for her billiment, she found, far from her expectation, a billiment of peaze; and so she almost wept
for verie griefe.[30]

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Meanwhile, in the yet unknown America, pearls were highly prized, and
their magic charm had taken an irresistible hold on aborigines and on the
more highly civilized inhabitants of Mexico and Peru. In Mexico the
palaces of Montezuma were studded with pearls and emeralds, and the
Aztec kings possessed pearls of inestimable value. That they had been
collected elsewhere for a long time is evidenced by the large quantities in
the recently opened mounds of the Ohio Valley, which rank among the
ancient works of man in America. As in the Old World, so in the New, they
had been used as decoration for the gods and for the temples, as well as for
men and women.
The principal immediate effect of Columbus’s discovery and of the
commercial intercourse with the New World, was the great wealth of pearls
which enriched the Spanish traders. The natives were found in possession of
rich fisheries on the coast of Venezuela, and somewhat later on the Pacific
coast of Panama and Mexico, whence Eldorado adventurers returned to
Spain with such large collections that—using an old chronicler’s expression
—“they were to every man like chaff.” For many years America was best
known in Seville, Cadiz, and some other ports of Europe, as the land
whence the pearls came. Until the development of the mines in Mexico and
Peru, the value of the pearls exceeded that of all other exports combined.
Humboldt states that till 1530 these averaged in value more than 800,000
piastres yearly.[31] And throughout the sixteenth century the American
fisheries—prosecuted by the Spaniards with the help of native labor—
furnished Europe with large quantities, the records for one year showing
imports of “697 pounds’ weight” into Seville alone.
For two centuries following the discovery of America, extravagance in
personal decoration was almost unlimited at the European courts, and the
pearls exceeded in quantity that of all other gems. Enormous numbers were
worn by persons of rank and fortune. This is apparent, not only from the
antiquarian records and the historical accounts, but also in the paintings and
engravings of that time; portraits of the Hapsburgs, the Valois, the Medicis,
the Borgias, the Tudors, and the Stuarts show great quantities of pearls, and
relatively few other gems.
Probably the largest treasures were in possession of the Hapsburg family,
which furnished so many sovereigns to the Holy Roman Empire, to Austria,
and to Spain, and which, by descent through Maria Theresa, continued to

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rule the Holy Roman Empire until its abolition in 1806, and has since ruled
Austria and Hungary.
A number of superb pieces of jewelry owned centuries ago by members
of this illustrious family are yet in existence; notably the buckle of Charles
V, and especially the imperial crown of Austria, made in 1602 by order of
Rudolph II.[32]
Two great women of that period are noted for their passion for pearls,
Catharine de’ Medici (1519–89), and Elizabeth of England (1533–1603). It
requires but a glance at almost any of their portraits, wherein they are
represented wearing elaborate pearl ornaments, to see to what an extent
they carried this fondness. And many other women were not far behind
them, among whom were Mary Stuart, Marie de’ Medici, and Henrietta
Maria. And not only by the women, but by the men also, pearls were worn
to what now seems an extravagant extent. Nearly all the portraits of Francis
I (1494–1547), Henry II (1519–59), Charles IX (1550–74), and Henry III
(1551–89) of France; of James I (1566–1625), and of Charles I (1600–49)
of England, and likewise of other celebrities, show a great pear-shaped
pearl in one ear. Many portraits also show pearls on the hats, cloaks, gloves,
etc.
When the Duke of Buckingham went to Paris in 1625, to bring over
Henrietta Maria to be queen to Charles I, he had, according to an account in
the “Antiquarian Repertory,” in addition to twenty-six other suits, “a rich
suit of purple satin, embroidered all over with rich orient pearls, the cloak
made after the Spanish mode, with all things suitable, the value whereof
will be twenty thousand pounds, and this, it is thought, shall be for the
wedding day at Paris.”
In the rich and prosperous cities of southern Europe, pearls were no less
popular. From its share of the spoils of the Byzantine Empire, after its
partition in 1204, pearls and other riches were plentiful in Venice, and they
were increased by the rapidly developing trade with the Orient. In the rival
maritime cities, Genoa and Pisa, the gem was equally popular; and likewise
in Florence “the Beautiful.” When Hercule d’Este sought Lucrezia Borgia
(1480–1519) in marriage for his son, her father, Pope Alexander VI,
plunging both hands in a box filled with pearls, said: “All these are for her!
I desire that in all Italy she shall be the princess with the most beautiful
pearls and with the greatest number.”[33]

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Separated by three centuries of time and by the intervening simplicities
of puritanism and democracy, it is difficult for us to appreciate the passion
for pearls in Europe at that period, which may well be called the Pearl Age.

MARIA THERESA (1717–
1780), QUEEN OF
HUNGARY

By Martin de Mytens, 1742

The sumptuary laws which prevailed at different times in France,
England, Germany, and other countries, did not overlook this extravagance;
and an entire volume might be devoted to the efforts to curb the excessive
use. In France they were probably most stringent during the reign of Philip
IV (1285–1314), of Louis XI (1461–83), of Charles IX (1560–74), of Henry
III (1574–89), and of Louis XIII (1610–43). In Germany almost every city
had its special restrictions. A sumptuary law of Ulm, in 1345, provided that
no married woman or maiden, either among the patricians or the artisans,
should wear pearls on her dresses; and another, in 1411, restricted them to
“one pearl chaplet,” and this should not exceed twelve loth (half ounce) in
weight. A Frankish sumptuary law of 1479 provided that ordinary nobles
serving a knight at a tourney should not wear any pearl ornaments,
embroidered or otherwise, excepting one string around the cap or hat. The
regulations decreed by the Diet of Worms, in 1495, set forth that the citizens
who were not of noble birth, and nobles who were not knights, must
withhold from the use of gold and pearls. A similar provision was enacted

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by the Diet of Freiburg in 1498, and likewise by the Diet of Augsburg in
1530, which permitted the wives of nobles four silk dresses, but without
pearls. In the sumptuary law of Duke John George of Saxony, April 23,
1612, we read: “the nobility are not allowed to wear any dresses of gold or
silver, or garnished with pearls; neither shall the professors and doctors of
the universities, nor their wives, wear any gold, silver or pearls for fringes,
or any chains of pearls, or caps, neck ornaments, shoes, slippers, shawls,
pins, etc., with gold or silver or with pearls.” Beadles, burgomasters, and
those connected with the law-courts were forbidden to wear chains of pearls
and ornaments of precious stones on their dresses, caps, etc., or slippers or
chaplets with pearls.
Probably in no place were these laws more stringent than in the art-
loving republic of Venice from the fourteenth to the sixteenth century. This
seems remarkable in view of the fact that this city was largely dependent for
its wealth and prominence on commerce with the East, of which pearls
constituted a prominent item.
The earliest Venetian restriction that we have found regarding pearls was
made in 1299; when, in a decree determining the maximum number of
guests at a marriage ceremony and the extent of the bridal trousseau, the
grand council of the republic provided that no one but the bride should wear
pearl decorations, and she should be permitted only one girdle of them on
her wedding dress. This enactment was modified in 1306, but numerous
other restrictions were substituted, notably in 1334, 1340, 1360, 1497, and
1562. These differed in many particulars: some forbade ornaments or
trimmings of pearls, gold, or silver on the dresses of any women except a
member of the Doge’s family; and other enactments required that, after a
definite period of married life, no woman should be permitted to wear
pearls of any kind. But an examination of the documents and of the
paintings of that period shows that these decrees had little effect, and the
luxury of the “Queen of the Adriatic” in the use of pearls at the most
brilliant epoch in her history is aptly reproduced in the portraits by
Giovanni Bellini, Lorenzo Lotto, the great Titian, Tintoretto, Paul Veronese,
and other artists of the highest rank. In the engraving by Hendrik Goltzius
of a marriage at Venice in 1584, not one of the many women present seems
to be without her necklace and earrings of pearls, and some of them have
several necklaces.[34] And the same appears true of the principal female

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figures in Jost Amman’s noted engraving, “The Espousal of the Sea,”
executed in 1565.[35]
As preservation of the republic became more difficult with declining
resources and with the continued growth of dazzling splendor, a resolution
in the Senate, dated July 8, 1599, set forth that “the use and price of pearls
has become so excessive and increases to such an extent from day to day,
that if some remedy is not provided, it will cause injury, disorders, and
notable inconvenience to public and private well-being, as each one of this
council in his wisdom can very easily appreciate.” And then it was enacted:
“That, without repealing the other regulations which absolutely prohibit the
wearing of pearls, it shall be expressly enjoined that any woman, whether of
noble birth or a simple citizen, or of any other condition, who shall reside in
this our city for one year (except her Serenity the Dogaressa and her
daughters and her daughters-in-law who live in the palace), after the
expiration of fifteen years from the day of her first marriage, shall lay aside
the string of pearls around her neck and shall not wear or use, either upon
her neck or upon any other part of her person, this string or any other kind
of pearls or anything which imitates pearls, neither in this city nor in any
other city or place within our dominion, under the irremissible penalty of
two hundred ducats.”
And yet ten years later, on May 5, 1609, another law enacted in the
Senate stated:
Although in the year 1599 this council decided with great wisdom that married women should be
permitted to wear pearls for only fifteen years after their first marriage, nevertheless it is very evident
that the desired end has not been attained, and the extravagance has continued up to the present time
and still continues with the gravest injury to private persons. Therefore, as it is necessary to remedy,
by a new provision, not only this considerable incommodity, but also to prevent in the future the
introduction into the city of a greater quantity of pearls than are found here at present, it is enacted,
that married women as well as those who shall marry in the future (except the Serene Dogaressa and
her daughters and her daughters-in-law living in the palace) of whatever grade and condition they
may be, who have resided in this city for one year, cannot wear pearls of any kind except for ten
years immediately following the day of their first marriage; and after that period they must lay aside
these pearls which they are forbidden to wear on any part of their persons, at home or abroad, and as
well in this as in the other cities, lands, and other places of our dominion, under the penalty of two
hundred ducats. And if the husband of the offending wife is a noble, he shall be proclaimed in the
greater council and declared a debtor to the office of the governors of the revenue in the sum of
twenty-five ducats for each fine; and if he is a citizen or of any other condition, besides the penalty of
two hundred ducats and the fine of twenty-five ducats above mentioned, he shall be banished for
three years from Venice and the Duchy, and the same for each offence. And pearls or anything which
imitates pearls, shall be forbidden to all other women, men and boys or girls of every age and
condition at all times and in all places, under the same penalty of two hundred ducats. In the future
no one shall in any manner bring pearls to this city as merchandise, under the penalty of their seizure

Page 56

and forfeiture. And the merchant shall be imprisoned for five consecutive years; and if he flees, he
shall be banished from the city and district of Venice and from all other cities, lands, and places of
our dominion for eight consecutive years.... And all who at present have pearls to sell are required to
deposit a list of them with the sumptuary office, so as to avoid all fraud which could be practiced in
this matter.

A copy of the title-page of this enactment is presented above.
The decrees and edicts were not confined to Venice, or to Italy, France, or
Germany; they made their appearance quite generally throughout western
and northern Europe and the interdictions of the civil authorities were
strengthened by the voice of the bishops and other clergy, especially in the
imperial cities of southern Germany. Yet the united authority of church and
state was ineffectual in stemming the tide of fashion and personal fancy,
and whether or not pearls should be worn became one of the much
discussed questions of that period.
To the question, “Whether the statute and regulation of Bishop
Tudertinus, who had excommunicated all women who wore pearls, was
binding,” Joannes Guidius replied that many denied that this was so, and
made the subtle defense that “the women had not accepted it and all had
worn pearls, and it was considered that such a law was binding only when it
was accepted by those for whom it was intended.”[36]
And as to the validity of the statutes requiring that women should not
wear more than a definite number of pearls, he decided that “such a statute

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is valid and in itself good. And if the question is put whether every woman
who infringes incurs the penalty, an answer may be gathered from the
sayings of the doctors, who distinguish between married and unmarried
women. They consider that an unmarried woman is obliged to obey the
statute and regulation or to incur the penalty. But as to a married woman, if
her husband approves, she should obey the statute; if, however, the husband
objects, then the wife ought to wish to obey the statute, but in effect she
should rather obey her husband, for she is most immediately and strongly
bound to do this.”[37] Aided by such ingenious opinions as these, the women
continued to follow their own inclinations notwithstanding the opposition of
church and state.
Other fine distinctions were drawn by the lawyers of that day regarding
ownership of gems under certain conditions. For instance, it was decided
that pearls given by a father to his unmarried daughter remained her
property after marriage because “they are given for a reason, namely to
induce a marriage”; yet “pearls handed to a wife by her husband are not
considered as her property, but must be given to his heirs, since it is
supposed that they were given only for her adornment. The same holds
good as respects pearls handed to a daughter-in-law by her father-in-law.”[38]
However, the greed of fashion, which law-makers and bishops could not
arrest, was gradually satiated; and, influenced probably by the horrors of the
Thirty Years’ War, more simple taste prevailed in the latter part of the
seventeenth century.
In the meantime, improvements in cutting and polishing had greatly
increased the beauty and popularity of diamonds and other crystal gems,
and this adversely affected the demand for pearls. Furthermore, cleverly
fashioned imitations manufactured at a low cost also served to decrease the
relative rank and fashion of the sea-born gems. In the eighteenth century,
pearls were relatively scarce; the resources of the American seas were
largely exhausted, likewise the Ceylon and Red Sea fisheries were not to be
depended on, and practically the entire supply came from the Persian Gulf,
with a few from European rivers and the waters of China. As a result,
although they continued to be prized by connoisseurs, pearls were not so
extensively sought after by the rank and file of jewel purchasers.
It should be noted, however, that from the most ancient times, the princes
of India and of Persia have had their pick and choice of the output from

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Ceylon and the Persian Gulf; and the largest single collections of the
Western world have never equaled the possessions of some of those rulers.
Some Indian princes have loaded themselves with thousands of pearls, and
individual ornaments have been valued not only by oriental, but by
European experts, at several millions of dollars.
The great diamond resources of Brazil were discovered in 1727, and after
a few years these came on the market at the rate of 140,000 carats annually.
At that time ladies of rank did not esteem diamonds so highly as pearls.
This distinction was accentuated by Lord Hervey in his account of the
coronation, in 1727, of George II and his consort Caroline, who wore not
only the great pearl necklace inherited from Queen Anne, but “had on her
head and shoulders all the pearls she could borrow of the ladies of quality at
one end of the town, and on her petticoat all the diamonds she could hire of
the Jews and jewelers at the other; so that the appearance and the truth of
her finery was a mixture of magnificence and meanness not unlike the éclat
of royalty in many other particulars, when it comes to be nicely considered
and its source traced to what money hires or flattery lends.”[39] In a portrait
of Charlotte (1744–1818), wife of George III, the pearls and diamonds
appear equally popular.
On the entry of the British into possession of Ceylon in 1796, the
fisheries of that country were resumed with great success after thirty years
of idleness, resulting in very large outputs for several seasons. But owing to
exhaustion of the areas, they were soon reduced, and the yield became
small and uncertain.
About 1845, pearls came on the market from the Tuamotu Archipelago
and other South Sea islands, and the industry was revived on the Mexican
coast. The pearls from these localities are noted for their range of
coloration, and particularly for the very dark shades, black or greenish black
being especially prominent. But the fashion, and thus, necessarily, the
demand, had always been for white and yellow pearls; consequently, these
black ones were of little value in the markets until about ten years later,
when they became fashionable in Europe largely through their popularity
with Empress Eugénie of France, then at the height of her power. To this
queen, pearls owe much of their high rank in fashion in the nineteenth
century; and on her head they were royal gems royally worn, as appears
from Winterhalter’s portrait of her, showing her magnificent necklace.

Page 59

The discovery of the resources on the Australian coast about 1865, and
the development of the fishery there for mother-of-pearl, resulted in many
large white pearls coming from that coast. The search was confined to the
relatively shoal waters, until the introduction of diving-suits about 1880.
The use of these facilitated a considerable extension of the fisheries not
only on the Australian coast, but also in Mexico, the Malay Archipelago,
several of the South Sea islands, and some minor localities.
In America, few jewels were worn previous to the Civil War, owing to
the absence of great wealth and to the simplicity of taste in personal
decorations. The rapid increase in wealth and luxury, on the termination of
that war, resulted in a great demand for gems, and the most brilliant and
showy ones were selected, especially diamonds. This demand was the more
readily supplied by the discovery of the South African mines, with their
great yield from 1870 to the present time. So popular did that gem become
that many a young man invested his first earnings in a “brilliant,” and an
enormous diamond in the shirt-front became the caricatured emblem of a
prosperous hotel clerk.
But in the last quarter of the nineteenth century, in Europe, as well as in
America and elsewhere where gems are worn, luxury found in pearls a
refinement, associated with richness and beauty, exceeding that of
diamonds and other crystal gems, and in the last few years they have taken
the highest rank among jewels. This change in fashion and the increase in
wealth among the people developed vastly greater demands and
consequently very much higher prices. These have resulted in greatly
extending the field of search, and during the last two or three decades many
new territories have been brought into production.
By far the most important of these new regions is the Mississippi Valley
in America, the pearl resources of which were made known about a score of
years ago. As the exploitation developed, the gems from these streams
added very largely to the supply, especially of the baroque or irregular
pearls, which have increased greatly in fashion in the last ten years.

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LADY MRS.
ABINGER ADAIR
LADY HON.
WIMBORNE MRS.
RENARD
GRÉVILLE
MARCHIONESS OF
LANSDOWNE
LADY LONDONDERRY
BARONESS DE FOREST

Notwithstanding the popular idea that pearls are scarce owing to
depletion of the fisheries, they are doubtless produced in greater quantities
at present than ever before in the history of the world. True, they were more
plentiful in Rome after the Persian conquest, and in Spain immediately
following the exploitation of tropical America; but it is highly probable that
in no equal period have the entire fisheries of the world yielded greater
quantities than in the five years from 1903 to 1907 inclusive. Certain
individual fisheries are now less productive than at the height of their
prosperity; those in the Red Sea do not compare favorably with their
condition in ancient times, the European resources are nearly exhausted, the
supplies from the Venezuelan coast do not equal those obtained early in the
sixteenth century, the yield from Mexico is not so extensive as twenty-five
years ago, and the same is true of some other regions. On the other hand,

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the great fisheries of Persia and Ceylon are yet very prosperous, the Ceylon
fishery of 1905 surpassing all records, and the number of minor pearling
regions has largely increased.
The present value of pearls—which has advanced enormously since 1893
—is due to the extended markets and the increased wealth and fashion in
Western countries, rather than to diminished fisheries. The oriental demand
still consumes the bulk of the Persian and Indian output, and the vast
increase in wealth among the middle classes in America, Europe, and
elsewhere, has increased the demand tenfold over that of a century ago.
While women no longer appear ornamented from head to foot as in the
sixteenth century, pearls are in the highest fashion, and the woman of rank
and wealth usually prizes first among her jewels her necklace of pearls.

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III

ORIGIN OF PEARLS

Page 63

III
ORIGIN OF PEARLS

Heaven-born and cradled in the deep blue sea, it is the purest of gems and the most precious.
S. M. Zwemer.

T
he origin of pearls has been a fruitful subject of speculation and
discussion among naturalists of all ages, and has provoked many
curious explanations. Most of the early views—universally
accepted during those centuries when tradition had more influence
than observation and experiment—have no standing among naturalists at
the present time. And although much information has been gained as to the
conditions accompanying their growth, and many theories are entertained,
each with some basis in observed fact, science does not yet speak with
conclusive and unquestioned authority as to the precise manner of their
origin and development.
Owing to the chaste and subdued beauty of pearls, it is not strange that
poets of many countries have founded their origin in tears—tears of angels,
of water-nymphs, of the lovely and devoted. Sir Walter Scott in “The Bridal
of Triermain” refers to—
The pearls that long have slept,
These were tears by Naiads wept.

In one of his most lovely and consoling thoughts, Shakspere says:
The liquid drops of tears that you have shed,
Shall come again, transform’d to orient pearl,
Advantaging their loan with interest
Of ten times double gain of happiness.

And we quote from Rückert’s “Edelstein und Perlen”:

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I was the Angel, who of old bowed down
From Heaven to earth and shed that tear, O Pearl,
From which thou wert first-fashioned in thy shell.
To thee I gave that longing in thy shell,
Which guided thee and caused thee to escape,
O Pearl, from the bewitching sirens’ song.

In luster they so closely resemble the limpid, sparkling dewdrop as it first
receives the sun’s rays, that the ancients very naturally conceived that pearls
are formed from drops of dew or rain. The usual legend is, that at certain
seasons of the year, the pearl-oysters rise to the surface of the water in the
morning, and there open their shells and imbibe the dewdrops; these, aided
by the breath of the air and the warmth of the sunlight, are, in the course of
time, transformed into lustrous pearls; but if the air and the sunlight are not
received in sufficient quantities, the pearls do not attain perfection and are
faulty in form, color, and luster. However remarkable and even absurd this
may seem at present, it appears to have been universally accepted for
centuries by the most learned men of Europe as well as by primitive people
who delight in the mystical and fantastic. This opinion was recorded in the
Sanskrit books of the Brahmans and in other oriental literature. The
classical and medieval writings of Europe contain numerous references to
it; and it is found even yet in the traditions and folk-lore of some peoples.
In the first century A.D., Pliny wrote in his “Historia naturalis,” according
to Dr. Philemon Holland’s quaint translation:
The fruit of these shell fishes are the Pearles, better or worse, great or small, according to the
qualitie and quantitie of the dew which they received. For if the dew were pure and cleare which
went into them, then are the Pearles white, faire, and Orient; but if grosse and troubled, the Pearles
likewise are dimme, foule, and duskish; pale they are, if the weather were close, darke and
threatening raine in the time of their conception. Whereby (no doubt) it is apparent and plaine, that
they participate more of the aire and sky, than of the water and the sea; for according as the morning
is faire, so are they cleere: but otherwise, if it were misty and cloudy, they also will be thicke and
muddy in colour. If they may have their full time and season to feed, the Pearles likewise will thrive
and grow bigge: but if in the time it chance to lighten, then they close their shells together, and for
want of nourishment are kept hungrie and fasting, and so the pearles keepe at a stay and prosper not
accordingly. But if it thunder withall, then suddenly they shut hard at once, and breed only those
excrescences which be called Physemata, like unto bladders puft up and hooved with wind, no
corporal substance at all: and these are the abortive & untimely fruits of these shell fishes.[40]

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PANAMA SHELL

(Margaritifera margaritifera
mazatlanica)

With pearls attached

VENEZUELA SHELL

(Margaritifera radiata)

Showing growth of pearls

Pliny’s views were probably derived from the ancient authorities of his
time, particularly from Megasthenes, Chares of Mytilene, and Isidorus of
Charace; and these curious fictions were incorporated by subsequent writers
and influenced popular opinion for many centuries. With scarcely a single
exception, every recorded theory from the first century B.C. to the fifteenth
century evidences a belief in dew-formed pearls.
This theory is referred to by Thomas Moore in his well-known lines:

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And precious the tear as that rain from the sky,
Which turns into pearls as it falls in the sea.

The Spanish-Hebrew traveler Benjamin of Tudela, in his “Masaoth” in
Persia (from 1160 to 1173), wrote: “In these places pearls are found, made
by the wonderful artifice of nature: for on the four and twentieth day of the
month Nisan, a certain dew falleth into the waters, which being sucked in
by the oysters, they immediately sink to the bottom of the sea; afterwards,
about the middle of the month Tisri, men descend to the bottom of the sea,
and, by the help of cords, these men bringing up the oysters in great
quantities from thence, open and take out of them the pearls.”[41]
From the “Bustan,” one of the most popular works of Sadi, the Persian
poet (1190–1291 A.D.), Davie quotes:
From the cloud there descended a droplet of rain;
’Twas ashamed when it saw the expanse of the main,
Saying: “Who may I be, where the sea has its run?
If the sea has existence, I, truly, have none!”
Since in its own eyes the drop humble appeared,
In its bosom, a shell with its life the drop reared;
The sky brought the work with success to a close,
And a famed royal pearl from the rain-drop arose.
Because it was humble it excellence gained;
Patiently waiting till success was attained.

Even the usually well-informed William Camden (1551–1623), in whose
honor the Camden Historical Society of England was named, accepted the
theory of dew-formed pearls. He stated that the river Conway in Wales
“breeds a kind of shells, which being pregnated with dew, produce pearl.”[42]
Also, speaking of the Irt in county Cumberland, England, he said: “In this
brook, the shell-fish, eagerly sucking in the dew, conceive and bring forth
pearls, or (to use the poet’s word) shell berries (Baccas concheas).”[43]
A recent letter from the American consul at Aden indicates that this view
is held even yet by the Arabs of that region. In giving their explanation for
the present scarcity in the Red Sea, he states: “There is a belief among them
that a pearl is formed from a drop of rain caught in the mouth of the pearl-
oyster, which by some chemical process after a time turns into a pearl; and
as there has been very little rain in that region for several years past, there
are few pearls.”

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So firmly established throughout Europe was the belief in dew-formed
pearls, that its non-acceptance by the native Indians of America excited the
commiseration of the Italian historian Peter Martyr, in his “De Orbe Novo,”
one of the very first books on America, published in 1517. He states: “But
that they [pearls of Margarita Island on the present coast of Venezuela]
become white by the clearnesse of the morning dewe, or waxe yelowe in
troubled weather, or otherwise that they seeme to rejoice in fayre weather
and dear ayre, or contrary-wise, to be as it were astonished and dymme in
thunder and tempests, with such other, the perfect knowledge hereof is not
to be looked for at the hands of these unlearned men, which handle the
matter but grossly and enquire no further than occasion serveth.”[44] Peter
Martyr was distinguished for his learning, was an instructor at the court of
Spain at the height of its power, and came in contact with the most
enlightened men of Europe, consequently it may be assumed that he
reflected the best opinions of his time.
It was not long before the aborigines of America were not alone in
discrediting the views which had prevailed in Europe for more than fifteen
hundred years. That practical old sailor Sir Richard Hawkins concluded that
this must be “some old philosopher’s conceit, for it can not be made
probable how the dew should come into the oyster.”[45] A similar view is
expressed by Urbain Chauveton in his edition of Girolamo Benzoni’s
“Historia del Mondo Nuovo,” published at Geneva in 1578. From his
reference to pearl-oysters on the Venezuelan coast, we translate:

Shells from Venezuela (Margaritifera radiata) with attached
pearls

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Exterior view of same

X-ray photograph of shell, printed through exterior of shell
and showing encysted pearls

Around the island of Cubagua and elsewhere on the eastern coast, are sandy places where the
pearl-oysters grow. They produce their eggs in very large quantities and likewise pearls at the same
time. But it is necessary to have patience to let them grow and mature to perfection. They are soft at
the beginning like the roe of fish; and as the mollusk gradually grows, they grow also and slowly
harden. Sometimes many are found in one shell, which are hard and small, like gravel. Persons who
have seen them while fishing say that they are soft as long as they are in the sea, and that the
hardness comes to them only when they are out of the water. Pliny says as much, speaking of the
Orientals in Book IX, of his Natural History, ch. 35. But as to that author and Albert the Great and
other writers upon the generation of pearls, who have said that the oysters conceive them by means of
the dew which they suck in, and that according as the dew is clear or cloudy the pearls also are
translucent or dark, etc., etc.,—all this is a little difficult to believe; for daily observation shows that
all the pearls found in the same shell are not of the same excellence, nor of the same form, the same

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perfection of color, nor the same size, as they would or must be if they were conceived by the dew all
at one time. Besides this, in many of the islands the Indians go fishing for them in ten or twelve
fathoms depth, and in some cases they are so firmly attached to the rocks in the sea that they can be
wrenched off only by main strength. Would it not be difficult for them to inhale the quintessence of
the air there? It seems then that it is the germ and the most noble part of the eggs of the oyster which
are converted into pearls rather than any other thing; and the diversities of size, color, and other
qualities, proceed from the fact that some are more advanced than others, as we see eggs in the body
of the hen.[46]
The old theory of dew-formed pearls was illustrated even as late as 1684
on a medal struck in honor of Elena Piscopia of the Corraro family of
Venice. This bore an oyster-shell open and receiving drops of dew, and
underneath was engraved the motto “Rore divino” (By divine dew). Even
yet one hears occasionally from out-of-the-way places—as in the instance
reported by the American consul at Aden—of pearls formed from rain or
dew, notwithstanding that there seems to exist absolutely no justification for
it in scientific zoölogy.
Probably the most popular theory entertained from the fifteenth to the
seventeenth century was that pearls were formed from the eggs of the
oyster. This was intimated by Chauveton in the quotation above given, and
it was also referred to by many naturalists.
In an interesting letter, dated Dec. 1, 1673, and giving as his authority the
testimony of an eye-witness, “Henricus Arnoldi, an ingenious and veracious
Dane,” Christopher Sandius wrote: “Pearl shells in Norway do breed in
sweet waters; their shells are like mussels, but larger; the fish is like an
oyster, it produces clusters of eggs; these, when ripe, are cast out and
become like those that cast them; but sometimes it appears that one or two
of these eggs stick fast to the side of the matrix, and are not voided with the
rest. These are fed by the oyster against her will and they do grow,
according to the length of time, into pearls of different bigness.”[47] This
possibly hit the mark with greater accuracy than the observations of the
“ingenious and veracious Dane” warranted, for he seems to have had quite a
different idea as to the manner in which the pearls are “fed by the oyster
against her will” from those generally entertained by naturalists at the
present time.
However, Oliver Goldsmith settled the matter by declaring briefly:
“Whether pearls be a disease or an accident in the animal is scarce worth
enquiry.”[48] Thus it seems that notwithstanding all that had been written and
the extended attention given to the subject, theory prevailed to the almost

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complete exclusion of practical investigation, with little intelligent advance
over Topsy’s “’spect they just growed.”
Owing, doubtless, to the scarcity of pearl-bearing mollusks in their
vicinities, naturalists of Europe were somewhat slow in giving attention to
the origin of pearls. This is further accounted for by the fact that the gems
occur more frequently in old and diseased shells than in the choice
specimens which have naturally attracted the notice of conchologists.
One of the first of the original observations made on this subject was that
by Rondelet, who, in 1554, advanced the idea that pearls are diseased
concretions occurring in the mollusca, similar to the morbid calculi in the
mammalia.[49]
The first writer to intimate the similarity in structural material or
substance between pearls and the interior of the shell in which they are
formed, appears to have been Anselmus de Boot (circa 1600), who wrote
that the pearls “are generated in the body of the creature of the same
humour of which the shell is formed; ... for whenever the little creature is ill
and hath not strength enough to belch up or expel this humour which
sticketh in the body, it becometh the rudiments of the pearl; to which new
humour, being added and assimilated into the same nature, begets a new
skin, the continued addition of which generates a pearl.”[50] The Portuguese
traveler, Pedro Teixeira (1608), stated: “I hold it for certain that pearls are
born of and formed of the very matter of the shell and of nothing else. This
is supported by the great resemblance of the pearl and the oyster-shell in
substance and color. Further, whatever oyster contains pearls has the flesh
unsound and almost rotten in the parts where the pearls are produced, and
those oysters that have no pearls are sound and clean fleshed.”[51]
Somewhat more than one hundred years later, this theory was confirmed
by investigations made by the famous physicist Réaumur (1683–1757).
Microscopic examination of cross sections of pearls show that they are built
up of concentric laminæ similar, except in curvature, to those forming the
nacreous portion of the shell. In a paper published by the French Academy
of Science in 1717,[52] Réaumur noted this condition, and suggested that
pearls are misplaced pieces of organized shell, and are formed from a
secretion which overflows from the shell-forming organ or from a ruptured
vessel connected therewith, and that the rupture or overflow is ordinarily
produced by the intrusion of some foreign or irritating substance.

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Sir Edwin Arnold calls attention to this theory in his beautiful lines:
Know you, perchance, how that poor formless wretch—
The Oyster—gems his shallow moonlit chalice?
Where the shell irks him, or the sea-sand frets,
He sheds this lovely lustre on his grief.

In pursuance of this idea, we find, in 1761, the Swedish naturalist
Linnæus, “the father of natural history,” experimenting in the artificial
production of pearls by the introduction of foreign bodies in the shell, and
meeting with some degree of success. His discovery was rated so highly
that it has been announced by some writers as the reason why the great
naturalist received the patent of nobility, which is generally supposed to
have been the reward for his services to science.
It seems that Linnæus’s discovery but verified the old saying that there is
nothing new under the sun, for later it was announced[53] that in China—
where so many inventions have originated—this idea had been put to
practical account for centuries preceding, and the crafty Chinaman had
succeeded in producing not only small pearly objects, but even images of
Buddha, with which to awe the disciples of that deified teacher.
The method consisted in slightly opening or boring through the shell of
the living mollusk and introducing against the soft body a small piece of
nacre, molded metal, or other foreign matter. The irritation causes the
formation of pearly layers about the foreign body, resulting, in the course of
months or of years, in a pearl-like growth. While these have some value as
objects of curiosity or of slight beauty, they are not choice pearls, nor for
that matter were those produced by Linnæus.
It will be observed that the theory of Réaumur, and also that of Linnæus,
required the intrusion of some hard substance, such as a grain of sand, a
particle of shell, etc., to constitute a nucleus of the pearl; and this is the
accepted explanation at the present time as to the origin of many of the
baroque or irregular pearls, and likewise the pearly “blisters” and
excrescences attached to the shell. But not so as to the choice or gem pearls,
those beautiful symmetrical objects of great luster which are usually
referred to in speaking of pearls.
Examinations of many of these have failed, except in rare instances, to
reveal a foreign nucleus of sand or similar inorganic substance. In searching
many fresh-water mussels, Sir Everard Home frequently met with small

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pearls in the ovarium, and he further noticed that these, as well as oriental
pearls, when split into halves, often showed a brilliant cell in the center,
about equal in size to the ova of the same mollusk. From these observations,
in 1826 he deduced his “abortive ova” theory, and announced:
A pearl is formed upon the external surface of an ovum, which, having been blighted, does not
pass with the others into the oviduct, but remains attached to its pedicle in the ovarium, and in the
following season receives a coat of nacre at the same time that the internal surface of the shell
receives its annual supply. This conclusion is verified by some pearls being spherical, others having a
pyramidal form, from the pedicle having received a coat of nacre as well as the ovum.[54]
Naturalists generally accepted these conclusions, that pearls originate in
pathological secretions formed, either as the result of the intrusion of hard
substances, or by the encysting or covering of ova or other objects of
internal origin; and there was no important cleavage of opinion until the
development of the parasitic theory, as a result of the researches of the
Italian naturalist Filippi, and those following his line of investigations. This
theory is not severely in conflict with those of Réaumur, Linnæus, Home,
etc., but relates principally to the identity of the irritating or stimulating
substance which forms the nucleus of the pearl.
In examining a species of fresh-water mussel, the Anodonta cygnea,
occurring in ponds near Turin, and especially the many small pearly
formations therein, Filippi observed that these were associated with the
presence of a trematode or parasitic worm, which he named Distomum
duplicatum, and which appears to be closely allied to the parasite which
causes the fatal “rot” or distemper in sheep. Under the microscope, the
smallest and presumably the youngest of these pearls showed organic nuclei
which appeared undoubtedly to be the remnants of the trematode. In
Anodonta from other regions, which were not infested with the distoma,
pearls were very rarely found by Filippi. In a paper,[55] published in 1852,
containing a summary of his observations, he concluded that a leading, if
not the principal, cause of pearl-formation in those mussels was the parasite
above noted; and in later papers[56] he included such other forms as Atax
ypsilophorus within the list of parasitic agencies which might excite the
pearl-forming secretions, comparing their action to that of the formation of
plant-galls.

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Mexican pearl-oyster
(Margaritifera margaritifera
mazatlanica) with adherent
pearl

Group of encysted pearls in
shell of Australian pearl-
oyster (Margaritifera
maxima)

American Museum of Natural History

Page 74

Mexican pearl-oyster (Margaritifera margaritifera
mazatlanica) with encysted fish

American Museum of Natural History

Group of encysted pearls Reverse of same group,
(Oriental) showing outline of the
individual pearls

The discovery of the parasitic origin of pearls was extended to the pearl-
oysters and to other parasites by Küchenmeister[57] in 1856, by Möbius[58] in
1857, and by several other investigators. Prominent among these were E. F.
Kelaart and his assistant Humbert, who, in 1859[59] disclosed the important
relation which the presence of vermean parasites bears to the origin of
pearls in the Ceylon oysters. These naturalists found “in addition to the
Filaria and Cercaria, three other parasitical worms infesting the viscera and
other parts of the pearl-oyster. We both agree that these worms play an

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important part in the formation of pearls.” Dr. Kelaart likewise found eggs
from the ovarium of the oyster coated with nacre and forming pearls, and
also suggested that the silicious internal skeletons of microscopic diatoms
might possibly permeate the mantle and become the nuclei of pearls.
Unfortunately, Dr. Kelaart’s investigations were terminated by his death a
few months thereafter.
In 1871, Garner ascribed the occurrence of pearls in the common English
mussel (Mytilus edulis) to the presence of distomid larvæ.[60] Giard,[61] and
other French zoölogists, made similar discoveries in the case of Donax and
some other bivalves. In 1901, Raphael Dubois confirmed the observations
of Garner, associating the production of pearls in the edible mussels on the
French coasts with the presence of larvæ of a parasite, to which he gave the
name of Distomum margaritarum, and boldly announced: “La plus belle
perle n’est donc, en définitive, que le brillant sarcophage d’un ver.”[62]
Prof. H. L. Jameson, in 1902, disclosed the relation which exists between
pearls in English mussels (Mytilus) and the larvæ of Distomum somateriæ.
[63]
The life history of this trematode, as revealed by Dr. Jameson, is
especially interesting from a biological standpoint, since it is entertained by
three hosts at different times: the first host is a member of the duck family;
the second is the Tapes clam (Tapes decussatus), or perhaps the common
cockle (Cardium edule), which incloses the first larval stage, and the third is
the edible mussel, in which the second larval stage of the parasite stimulates
the formation of pearls. At the Brighton Aquarium and the Fish Hatchery at
Kiel, Dr. Jameson claims to have succeeded in artificially inoculating
perfectly healthy mussels with these parasites by associating them with
infested mollusks, and thereby producing small pearls.
From Dr. Jameson’s interesting paper we abridge the following account
of the manner in which the pearls are developed. The trematode enters
Mytilus edulis as a tailless cercaria, and at first may often be found between
the mantle and the shell. The larvæ, after a while, enter the connective
tissue of the mantle, where they come to rest, assuming a spherical form,
visible to the naked eye as little yellowish spots about one half millimeter in
diameter. At first the worm occupies only a space lined by connective-tissue
fibrils, but soon the tissues of the host give rise to an epithelial layer, which
lines the space and ultimately becomes the pearl-sac. If the trematode larva
completes its maximum possible term of life, it dies, and the tissues of the

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body break down to form a structureless mass which retains the form of the
parasite, owing to the rigid cuticle. In this mass arise one or more centers of
calcification, and the precipitation of carbonate of lime goes on until the
whole larva is converted into a nodule with calcospheritic structure. The
granular matter surrounding the worm, if present, also undergoes
calcification. The epithelium of the sac then begins to shed a cuticle of
conchiolin, and from this point the growth of the pearl probably takes place
on the same lines and at the same rate as the thickening of the shell.[64]
Fully as remarkable as the observations of Dr. Jameson are the results
claimed by Professor Dubois in experimenting with a species of pearl-
oyster (M. vulgaris) from the Gulf of Gabes on the coast of Tunis, where
they are almost devoid of pearls, a thousand or more shells yielding on an
average only one pearl. Conveying these to the coast of France in 1903, he
there associated them with a species of trematode-infested mussel (Mytilus
gallo-provincialis), and after a short period they became so infested that
every three oysters yielded an average of two pearls.[65] This claim has not
been without criticism; but who ever knew scientists to agree?
In the pearl-oyster of the Gambier Islands (M. margaritifera cumingi),
Dr. L. G. Seurat found that the origin of pearls was due to irritation caused
by the embryo of a worm of the genus Tylocephalum, the life of which is
completed in the eagle-ray, a fish which feeds on the pearl-oyster.[66]
In 1903, Prof. W. A. Herdman, who, at the instance of the colonial
government, and with the assistance of Mr. James Hornell, examined the
pearl-oyster resources of Ceylon, announced: “We have found, as Kelaart
did, that in the Ceylon pearl-oyster there are several different kinds of
worms commonly occurring as parasites, and we shall, I think, be able to
show that Cestodes, Trematodes, and Nematodes may all be concerned in
pearl formation. Unlike the case of the European mussels, however, we find
that in Ceylon the most important cause is a larval Cestode of the
Tetrarhynchus form.”[67]
In his investigation of the Placuna oyster in 1905, Mr. James Hornell
found that the origin of pearls was due to minute larva of the same stage
and species as that which causes the pearls in the Gulf of Manar oyster.[68]
The spherical larvæ of this tapeworm sometimes occur in great
abundance, and there is evidence of forty having been found in a single
pearl-oyster. Mr. Hornell states that the living worm does not induce pearl

Page 77

formation, this occurring only when death overtakes it while in certain parts
of the oyster. As a consequence, pearls are more numerous in oysters which
have been long infected, where the worms are older and more liable to die.
This parasitic worm has been traced from the pearl-oyster to the trigger-
fishes, which eat the pearl-oysters, and thence into certain large fish-eating
rays, where it becomes sexually mature and produces embryos which enter
the pearl-oyster and begin a new cycle of life-phases.
It seems, therefore, that the latest conclusions of science appear entirely
favorable to the parasitic theory as explaining at least one, and probably the
most important, of the causes for the formation of pearls; and that some
truth exists in the statement that the most beautiful pearl is only the brilliant
sarcophagus of a worm. This morphological change is not peculiar to
mollusks, for in most animal bodies a cyst is formed about in-wandering
larvæ. Fortunately for lovers of the beautiful, in the pearl-oysters the
character of the cyst-wall follows that of the interior lining of the shell, and
not only simulates, but far surpasses it in luster.
While the theory that pearls are caused by the intrusion of some unusual
substance has the evidence of actual demonstration in many instances, and
is unquestionably true to a large extent, yet microscopic examination of
some pearls suggests the theory that a foreign substance is not always
essential to their formation, and that they may originate in calcareous
concretions of minute size, termed “calcospherules.” As regards their
origin, Professor Herdman classifies pearls into three sorts: (1) “Ampullar
pearls,” which are not formed within closed sacs of the shell-secreting
epithelium like the others, but lie in pockets or ampullæ of the epidermis.
The nuclei may be sand-grains or any other foreign particles introduced
through breaking or perforation of the shell. (2) “Muscle pearls,” which are
analogous to gallstones, formed around calcospherules at or near the
insertion of the muscles. And (3) “Cyst pearls,” in which concentric layers
of nacre are deposited on cysts containing parasitic worms in the connective
tissue of the mantle and within the soft tissues of the body.[69]
Even a particle of earth, clay, or mud may form the nucleus of a pearl.
This was illustrated a few years ago in a fine button-shaped pearl, which
was accidentally broken under normal usage and was found to consist of a
hard lump of white clay surrounded by a relatively thin coating of nacre.

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More remarkable yet are the cases in which a minute fish, a crayfish, or the
frustule of a diatom has formed the nucleus.
Several instances have been described by Woodward, Gunther, Putnam,
Stearns, and others, where small fish have penetrated between the mantle
and the shell of the mollusk, and the latter has resented the intrusion by
covering the intruder with a pearly coating. In two or three instances the
secretion occurred in so short a time that the fish suffered no appreciable
decomposition, and its species is readily identified by observation through
the nacreous layer. Among the remarkable specimens of this nature which
have come under our observation are two very curious shells received in
March, 1907, from the Mexican fisheries. One of these specimens shows an
encysted fish, so quickly covered and so perfectly preserved that even the
scales and small bones are in evidence; indeed, one can almost detect the
gloss on the scales of the fish; and in the other—with a remarkable comet-
like appearance—a piece of ribbed seaweed is apparently the object
covered.
From the foregoing, it appears that the pearl is not a product of health
associated with undisturbed conditions, but results from a derangement in
the normal state of the mollusk. Unable to resist, to rid itself of the
opposing evil, it exercises the powers given to it by a beneficent Creator
and converts the pain into perfection, the grief into glory. Nature has many
instances of the humble and lowly raised to high degree, but none more
strikingly beautiful than this. One of the lowest of earth’s creatures,
suffering a misfortune, furnishes a wonderful lesson upon the uses of pain
and adversity by converting its affliction into a precious gem symbolical of
all that is pure and beautiful. As written by a forgotten poet: “Forasmuch as
the pearl is a product of life, which from an inward trouble and from a fault
produces purity and perfection, it is preferred; for in nothing does God so
much delight as in tenderness and lustre born of trouble and repentance.” As
the great Persian poet Hafiz says:
Learn from yon orient shell to love thy foe,
And store with pearls the wound that brings thee woe.

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IV

STRUCTURE AND FORMS

Page 80

IV
STRUCTURE AND FORMS OF PEARLS

“This maskellez perle that boght is dere,
The joueler gef fore alle hys gold,
Is lyke the reme of hevenes clere”;
So sayde the fader of folde and flode,
“For hit is wermlez, clene and clere,
And endelez rounde and blythe of mode,
And commune to all that ryghtwys were.”
Fourteenth-century mss. of “Pearl,”
in the British Museum.

A
s Kadir Munshi says, “pearls have no pedigree”; their beauty is
not to be traced to their origin, but exists wholly in the
excellence of the surroundings in which they develop.
The pearl-bearing mollusks are luxurious creatures, and for the purpose
of protecting their delicate bodies they cover the interior of their shells with
a smooth lustrous material, dyed with rainbow hues, and possessing a
beautiful but subdued opalescence. No matter how foul, how coral covered,
or overgrown with sponges or seaweeds the exterior may be, all is clean and
beautiful within. This material is nacre or mother-of-pearl. It consists
ordinarily of an accumulation of extremely thin semi-transparent films or
laminæ of a granular organic substance called conchiolin, with the
interstices filled with calcareous matter. The nacre decreases in thickness
from the hinge toward the lip of the shell, and terminates a short distance
from the extreme edge.
Next to the nacre is the middle layer or the shell proper. In species of
Margaritifera, this stratum is commonly formed of layers of calcareous
prisms arranged vertically to the shell surface. External to this middle or
prismatic layer is the epidermis or periostracum, the rough outer coating of
varying shades, usually yellow or brown. Where the waves are rough, and

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the bottom hard and rocky, this covering is thick and heavy, to afford
greater protection; but where the waters are smooth and gentle, and the
bottom free from rocks, Nature—never working in vain—furnishes only
thin sides and slight defense. As is the case with the nacre, the prismatic
layer and the periostracum decrease in thickness from the hinge to the edge,
and the inside lip of the shell shows the gradual union of the three
superimposed layers. The two outer layers are formed by the thick edge of
the mantle, the remaining portion—or nearly the entire surface—of this
organ secretes the nacral layer.
Not only is the interior of the shell made lustrous and beautiful, but this
tendency is exerted toward all objects that come in contact with the soft
body of the mollusk, either by intrusion simply within the shell, or deeply
within the organs and tissues of the animal itself. All foreign bodies—such
as small parasites, diatoms, minute pebbles, etc.,—irritate the tender tissues
of the mollusk, and stimulate the pearly formation which in course of time
covers them. At first the nacreous covering is very thin; but with added
layer after layer the thickness is enhanced, and the size of the object
increases as long as it remains undisturbed and the mollusk is in healthful
growth.
Chemically considered, aside from the nucleus, the structure of pearls is
identical in composition with that of the nacre of the shell in which they are
formed. Analyses have shown that those from the fresh-water mussels of
England and Scotland, and from the pearl-oysters of Australia and of
Ceylon, have nearly identical composition in the proportion of about 5.94
per cent. of organic matter, 2.34 of water, and 91.72 per cent. of carbonate
of lime.[70] The specific gravity ranges from nearly 2 to about 2.75,
increasing with the deposit of the nacreous coatings. The following
summary by Von Hessling[71] shows the results of certain determinations of
specific gravity:

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Authority Specific Note
Gravity
Muschenbroet 2.750 at moderate temperature
Brisson 2.684 at 14° Réaumur
Möbius 2.686 4 fine pearls, weighing 2.396 gms.
Möbius 2.650 24 pearls, weighing 6.221 gms.
Möbius 2.336 63 brown pearls from Mazatlan, weighing 4.849 gms.
Voit 2.722 Bavarian pearls, 33⁄16 carats, medium quality
Voit 2.616 Bavarian pearls, 3⅝ carats, finer quality
Voit 2.724 Bavarian pearls, 1¾ carats, very fine
Voit 2.578 Bavarian pearls, gray, with some luster
Voit 2.765 Bavarian pearls, brown, ranking between good & black
Voit 2.238 Bavarian pearls, poor black pearls, impure

Cross section of an irregular pearl, magnified 80 diameters

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Cross sections of pearls, magnified 30 diameters

Thin section of mother-of-
pearl, magnified, showing
sponge borings which
traversed the pearl shell

Structure of conch pearl
produced by fracturing,
magnified 80 diameters

The distinctive characteristic, the great beauty of a true pearl, is its luster
or orient, which is a subdued iridescence, rather than the glittering brilliance
of the diamond; and unless the shelly growth be lustrous it does not rank as
a gem pearl, no matter how perfect its form or beautiful its color. This luster
is due to the structural arrangement of the surface as well as to the quality

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of the material. The nacreous material forming true pearls, and likewise
mother-of-pearl, is commonly deposited in irregular tenuous layers, very
thin and very small in area compared with the surface of the pearl. These
laminæ overlap one another, the surfaces are microscopically crumpled and
corrugated, and the edges form serrated outlines. The greater the angle
which the laminæ form with the surface, the closer will be these serrated
outlines, and where the plane of the exterior lamina is parallel with the
plane of the surface the lines are not present. This arrangement causes the
waves of light to be reflected from different levels on the surface, just as in
a soap bubble, and the minute prisms split the rays up into their colored
constituents, producing the chromatic or iridescent effect.
The cause is wholly mechanical, and an impression of the surface made
in very fine wax shows a similar iridescence. Also, if a piece of mother-of-
pearl be immersed in acid until the surface lime or shelly matter is
dissolved, the pellucid membrane shows the iridescence until it is so
compressed that the corrugations are reduced. About two score years ago an
Englishman invented steel buttons with similar minute corrugations
producing pearly effect, but the manufacture was unprofitable, owing,
principally, to their liability to tarnish.
In the shells of some mollusks—as the edible oysters (Ostrea) or the
giant clam (Tridacna),—there is almost a total absence of the crumpled
corrugated laminæ, and, consequently, there is little luster. In others the
nacre is of better quality, resulting in superior orient, and it probably
reaches its highest degree of perfection in the pearl-oyster (Margaritifera).
As the curvature of the surface of pearls is greater, and the minute striæ
are more numerous, than in ordinary mother-of-pearl, it follows that the
iridescence is likewise greater.
Superior nacre is more or less translucent, depending on its quality; and
to the iridescence of the outer laminæ is added that of many interior ones,
so that the luster is vastly increased. The position of the pearl within the
shell may greatly affect the quality of the material and, consequently, the
orient. The choicest are commonly found within the soft parts of the animal,
and those of poorer quality are at the edges of the mantle, or within the
fibers of the adductor muscle of bivalves.
The structure of pearls may be studied by examining thin cross sections
under the microscope, or by transmitted polarized light. It appears that

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ordinarily a pearl is made up of many independent laminæ superimposed
one upon another “like the layers of an onion,” or, rather, resembling the
leaves near the upper part of a well formed cabbage. When subjected to
sufficient heat, the laminæ separate from each other, as do shells of edible
oysters and similar mollusks under like conditions. When broken by a
hammer, a pearl may exhibit this laminated formation. If not split directly
through the center, the central section may retain the spherical form; and as
this commonly remains attached to one of the parts, its concave impression
appears in the other portion of the broken pearl. The outer laminæ of many
pearls may be removed with a fair prospect of finding a good subjacent
surface, and this may be continued until the size is greatly reduced. These
laminæ are not always similar in color or luster.
However, not all pearls are laminated in this manner. Instead of
superimposed layers, some of them exhibit a crystalline form, composed of
beautiful prismatic crystals radiating from the center to the circumference.
In at least one oriental pearl examined, these crystals were in well defined
arcs, and were further separated into concentric rings of different degrees of
thickness, depth of color, and distance apart. Another specimen—a Scotch
pearl—combined in separate layers both the laminated form and the
crystalline structure.
Dr. Harley points out that some crystalline pearls apparently originate in
mere coalescences of mineral particles, rather than in well defined nuclei.[72]
Microscopic sections of crystalline pearls convey the idea that the prisms
branch and interlace with one another, and also that in some instances they
are of fusiform shape. However, these appearances seem to be due simply
to the cross sections having cut the prisms at different angles.
Pearls showing these types were exhibited at a meeting of the Royal
Society of London, June 8, 1887. That exhibit also contained a section of a
west Australian pearl of curiously complex crystalline formation; instead of
one central starting-point, it had more than a dozen scattered about, from
which the crystalline prisms radiated in all directions.
Since the three superimposed layers of the shell are secreted by separate
parts of the mantle, viz., the nacre by the general surface, the prismatic layer
by the inner edge, and the epidermis by the outer edge, it follows that if a
pearl in course of formation is moved from one of these distinctive portions
of the palial organ to another, the nature of its laminæ changes. Thus, if a

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pearl formed on the broad surface of the mantle is moved in some way to
the inner edge of that organ, it may be covered with a prismatic layer; if
then moved to the outer edge it may receive a lamina of epidermis, and then
by changing again to the broad surface of the mantle it receives further
coats of nacre.

Pearls from common clam (Venus mercenaria) of eastern
coast of America

Pearl “nuggets” from the Mississippi Valley

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Wing pearls from the Mississippi Valley

Dog-tooth pearls from the Mississippi Valley

The structure of pearls from univalve mollusks, such as the conch, the
abalone, etc., as well as those from some bivalves, as the Pinna, for
instance, differs from that of the true pearls formed in species of
Margaritifera. Instead of the alternate layers of conchiolin and of carbonate
of lime, many of these have an alveolar structure. When greatly magnified,
the surface of a Pinna pearl appears to be formed of very small polygones,
which, as decalcification shows, are the bases of small pyramids radiating
from the nucleus. The walls of these pyramids are formed of conchiolin,
and they are filled with carbonate of lime of a prismatic crystalline
structure. This is simply a modification of the parallel laminæ in the
Margaritifera pearls, for, as Dubois points out, in some sections we can see

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portions where the alveolar formation has proceeded for a time
coincidentally with the lamellar form.
Pearls are affected by acids and fetid gases, and may be calcined on
exposure to heat. Their solubility in vinegar was referred to by the Roman
architect Vitruvius (“De Architectura,” L. viii. c. 3) and also by Pausanias, a
Greek geographer in the second century (“Hellados Periegesis,” L. viii, c.
18); but it seems that there could be little foundation for Pliny’s well-known
anecdote in which Cleopatra is credited with dissolving a magnificent pearl
in vinegar and drinking it—“the ransom of a kingdom at a draught”—to the
health of her lover Antony.[73] It is no more easy to dissolve a pearl in
vinegar than it is to dissolve a pearl-button—for the composition is similar,
and one may easily experiment for himself as to the difficulty in doing this.
Not only does it take many days to dissolve in cold vinegar the mineral
elements of a pearl of fair size, but even with boiling vinegar it requires
several hours to extract the mineral matter from one four or five grains in
weight, the acid penetrating to the interior very slowly. And in neither case
can the pearl be made to disappear, for even after the carbonate of lime has
dissolved, the organic matrix of animal matter—which is insoluble in
vinegar—retains almost the identical shape, size, and appearance as before.
If the pearl is first pulverized, it becomes readily soluble in vinegar, and
might be thus drunk as a lover’s potion, but it would scarcely prove a bonne
bouche.
Pearls assume an almost infinite variety of forms, due largely to the
shapes of the nuclei, and also to their positions within the mollusk. The
most usual—and, fortunately, also the most valuable—is the spherical,
resulting from a very minute or a round body as a nucleus and the uniform
addition of nacre on all sides. Of course, spherical pearls can result only
where they are quite free from other hard substances; consequently they
originate only in the soft parts of the mollusk and not by the fixation of
some nucleus to the interior surface of the shell.
The perfectly spherical pearls range in weight from a small fraction of a
grain to three hundred grains or more, but it is very, very rare that one of
choice luster weighs more than one hundred grains. The largest of which we
have any specific information was that among the French crown jewels as
early as the time of Napoleon, an egg-shaped pearl, weighing 337 grains.
The largest pearl known to Pliny in the first century A.D. weighed “half a

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Roman ounce and one scruple over,” or 234½ grains Troy. These very large
ones, weighing in excess of one hundred grains, are called “paragons.” The
small pearls—weighing less than half a grain each—are known as “seed-
pearls.” The very small ones, weighing less than 1⁄25 of a grain, are called
“dust-pearls.” These are too small to be of economic value as ornaments.
Slight departures from the perfect sphere, result in egg shapes, pear
shapes, drop shapes, pendeloque, button shapes, etc. Some of these are
valued quite as highly at the present time as the spherical pearls, and many
of the most highly prized pearls in the world are of other than spherical
form. Indeed, pearls of this kind are found of larger size than the perfectly
round pearls. The egg-shaped pearl,[74] called “la Régente,”—one of the
French crown jewels sold in May, 1887—weighed, as stated above, 337
grains. The great pear pearl described by Tavernier—“the largest ever
discovered”—weighed about 500 grains. A button pearl received from
Panama in 1906 weighed 216 grains.
Wider departures from the spherical form result in cylindrical, conical,
top-shaped, etc. Some pearls present the appearance of having been turned
in a lathe with intricate tooling. Remarkable examples of these “turned
pearls” have been found, competing in their circular perfection with the best
work of a jeweler’s lathe.
Many standard varieties of non-spherical, but normally shaped pearls, are
recognized by the fishermen and the jewelers. For instance, in the
nomenclature of the American fishermen, bouton, or button pearls are
divided into “haystacks” and “turtle-backs,” according to the height of the
projection. Also, certain imperfections result in distinguishing names:
“bird’s-eye” refers to a pearl having a little imperfection on the best surface;
“ring-arounds” have a dark or discolored ring about them; and
“strawberries” have numerous minute projections on the surface.
During its growth, a spherical pearl may come in contact with a foreign
body, such as grit or a vegetable film, and the additional nacral layers
envelop the adjacent matter until it is entirely concealed within the pearl, its
position being recognized only by the excrescence on one side, and, with
continued increase in size, even this may be almost overcome.

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ACTUAL SIZES OF PEARLS FROM ⅛ GRAIN TO 160
GRAINS

Sometimes double, triple, or multiple pearls are formed; each of these
may have a separate nucleus and grow independently for a time until they
adjoin each other; continuing to grow, they become so united as to form a
connected mass. The “Southern Cross” is a remarkable example of this. It
appears to consist of seven nearly spherical pearls attached to one another
in a straight line, and one projecting from each side of the second in the
row, thus forming a Roman cross.[75]
A few years ago, near Sharks Bay, on the coast of western Australia, a
cluster was found containing about 150 pearls closely compacted. This
cluster measured about one and a half inches in length, three quarters of an
inch in breadth, and half an inch in thickness.
When a growing pearl is very near to the nacreous lining of the shell, the
pressure between the two hard substances results in a rupture of the pearl-
forming sac and the epithelial layer of the shell, and the pearl comes in
actual contact with the nacre. The pearl gradually becomes attached to the
shell, and the under portion is prevented from growing further; the upper or
exposed surface receives other layers, resulting in the formation of a
bouton. As the shell around the pearl continues to grow, it gradually closes
about, and almost wholly conceals the pearl. Since it is constantly wasting
away on the exterior surface as it grows on the interior, it follows that in
time the shell passes the pearl quite through to the outside, where it rapidly
decays. Thus the oyster virtually forces the annoying intruder directly
through the wall of its house instead of by way of the open door, and
magically closes the breach with its marvelous masonry.

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These embedded pearls are generally faulty and of diminished luster, but
in the aggregate, large quantities of imperfect ones, and especially half and
quarter pearls, are secured in this manner. Sometimes—particularly in the
Australian fisheries—large pearls are thus found, weighing twenty, forty,
sixty, and even eighty grains; and when the faulty outside layers of nacre
are removed, a subjacent surface of fine luster may possibly be revealed. In
bivalves, these adherent pearls are commonly in the deep or lower valve,
except in those unusual cases where the mollusks have been lying in a
reverse position. At the fisheries, the surfaces of the shells are carefully
inspected for evidence of pearly nodules, and these are broken open in
search for encysted objects. Cutters of mother-of-pearl occasionally find
embedded pearls of this kind which have escaped the vigilant eyes of the
fishermen.
We read of an instance in an important paper treating of the jeweling
trade of Birmingham: “A few years since [the paper was written in 1866] a
small lot of shells was brought to Birmingham, which either from ignorance
or mistake had not been cleared of the pearls at the fishery. A considerable
number were found and sold, and one especially was sold by the man who
had bought the shell for working into buttons, for £40. The purchaser, we
believe, resold the same for a profit of £160; and we have heard that it was
afterward held in Paris for sale at £800.”
A choice gem which was found in New York, in October, 1905, in an
Australian shell, sold finally for $1200.
The intrusion and continued presence of grains of sand or similar
material between the mantle and the shell causes the formation of nacre
over the foreign body, resulting in a chicot (blister pearl), or possibly a
quarter or a half-pearl. The growth of a chicot sometimes results from the
mollusk covering a choice pearl which has become loosened from the soft
tissues and adheres to the shell, as above cited. Hence, it is sometimes
desirable to break a chicot to secure its more valuable inclosure. In the
account of his interesting pearling experiences on the Australian coast,
Henry Taunton states: “During the first season’s shelling at Roebuck Bay,
we came across an old worm-eaten shell containing a large blister, which
was removed in the usual manner by punching a ring of minute holes
around its base; a slight tap was then sufficient to detach it. For many weeks
it was untouched, no one caring to risk opening it, for if filled with black

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ooze, which is frequently the case, it would be of little value. At last, baffled
in his attempt to solve the problem, and emboldened by an overdose of
‘square face,’ the skipper gave it a smart blow with a hammer, which
cracked it open, and out rolled a huge pearl, nearly perfect, and weighing
eighty grains. A few specks and discolorations were removed by a skilful
‘pearl-faker,’ and it was sold in London for £1500.”[76]
Blister pearls are also caused by the defensive or protective action of the
mollusk in resisting the intrusion of some animal, as a boring sponge or a
burrowing worm, which has begun to penetrate the outer layers of the shell.
This stimulation causes the mollusk to pile nacreous material upon the spot,
thus making a substantial mound closely resembling a segment of a large
pearl. This walling-out of intruders is not the result of intelligent
forethought or of instinct, analogous to the repairing of a damaged web by a
spider, or the retunneling of a collapsed gallery by ants; it is a pathological
rather than an intelligent action.

BROOCHES MADE OF
PETAL, DOG-TOOTH, AND
WING PEARLS

From the Upper Mississippi
Valley

When the nucleus of a pearl is large and very irregular, it necessarily
follows that the deposited nacre roughly assumes the irregular outline of the

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inclosed object. This is strikingly shown in pearls covering a minute fish, a
crayfish, or a small crab. Several specimens have been found in which the
species could be identified by examination through the nacreous coating.
In the American Unios there is a strong tendency to produce elongated
pearls near the hinge of the shell, which are consequently known as “hinge
pearls.” The occurrence and form of these suggest that their origin may not
be due to nuclei, but that they result from an excess of carbonate of lime in
the water, and that the animal stores a surplus of nacre in this convenient
form. There are several standard forms of these hinge pearls. Many are
elongated or dog-toothed, some are hammer-shaped, others resemble the
wings of birds, the petals of flowers, the bodies of fish, and various other
objects. A large percentage of the pearls found in Unios of the Mississippi
Valley are of these types.
Some irregular pearls or baroques are very large, weighing an ounce or
more. A well-known example is the Hope pearl, described on page 463,
which weighs three ounces. These monster pearls sometimes assume odd
shapes, such as clasped hands, the body of a man, lion, or other animal, etc.
Although baroques may have a pearly luster, they are not highly prized
unless unusually attractive, and they have little permanent value, apart from
their estimation in the eyes of admirers of the curious and unique. They are
used largely in l’art nouveau, and in forming odd and fanciful objects of
jewelry, the designer taking advantage of the resemblance which they bear
to common objects of every-day life, and by additions of gold and other
ornaments completing the form which nature had merely suggested.
Some remarkable examples of baroque mountings have been produced,
and a few are to be found in most of the large pearl collections. In a single
case in the Imperial Treasury at Vienna are baroques forming the principal
parts or figures of a horse, stag, lamb, tortoise, lizard, cock, dragon,
butterfly, gondola, hippopotamus, female bust, and three mermaids. Other
well-known collections are those of the royal family of Saxony in the Grüne
Gewölbe at Dresden; those in the Palace of Rosenberg at Copenhagen; in
the Waddesden (Rothschild) collection of the British Museum; among the
jewels in the Louvre in Paris; with the treasures of the Basilica of St. Mark
in Venice; and in the museum of the University of Moscow.
A remarkable pearl-like ornament more common in Asia than in the
Occident, is the coque de perle, which is an oval section of the globose

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whorl of the Indian nautilus. The exterior or convex surface is highly
lustrous, but the material is very thin. It is commonly provided with a
suitable filling or backing of putty or cement to impart solidity, and is used
like a blister pearl. Sometimes two perfectly matched coques de perle are
filled and cemented together, giving the appearance of an abnormally large
oblong or nearly spherical pearl.
The color of pearls has no connection with the luster. In general it is the
same as that of the shell in which they are formed. Black pearls are found in
the black shells of Mexico, and pink pearls in the pink-hued Strombus of the
Bahamas. Ceylon pearls are seldom of any other color than white, and
Sharks Bays are almost invariably quite yellow or straw-colored, while
those of Venezuela are commonly yellowish tinged. But from other
localities, pearls simulate every tint of the rainbow, as well as white and
black. The most common, as well as the most desirable ordinarily, is white,
or rather, silvery or moonlight glint,—“la gran Margherita,” as Dante calls
it; but yellow, pink, and black are numerous. They may also be piebald—a
portion white and the rest pink or brown or black. Some years ago there was
on the market a large bean-shaped pearl of great luster, one half of which
was white and the other quite black, the dividing-line being sharply defined
in the plane of the greatest circumference. The pearls from Mexico, the
South Sea islands, and the American rivers are especially noted for their
great variety of coloration, covering every known tint and shade, and
requiring such a master as Théophile Gautier to do justice to them.
Many theories have been advanced to explain the coloration of pearls.
When the old idea of dew formation prevailed, it was considered that white
pearls were formed in fair weather, and the dark ones when the weather was
cloudy. It was further considered that the color was influenced by the depth
of the water in which they grew: that in deep water they were white, but
where it was so shallow that the sunlight easily penetrated, the pearls were
more likely to be dark in color. Tavernier curiously explained that the black
pearls of Panama and Mexico owed their color to the black mud in which
the pearl-oysters of those localities lived, and that Persian Gulf pearls were
more inclined to yellow than those of Ceylon, owing to the greater
putrefaction of the flesh before they were removed therefrom.[77] Two
centuries ago the color of a pearl was attributed to that of the central
nucleus, and it was concluded that if the nucleus was dark, the pearl would
be of a similar hue.[78] This theory has also been upset, for pearls are found

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white on the exterior and quite dark within, and also with these conditions
reversed.

GRAY PEARLS IN THE
POSSESSION OF AN
AMERICAN LADY AND
BROOCH FROM TIFFANY
& CO.’S EXHIBIT, PARIS
EXPOSITION, 1900

The color of a pearl is determined by that of the conchiolin, as appears
from its remaining unchanged after decalcification. While generally it is the
same as that of the mother-of-pearl at the corresponding point of the shell in
which it is formed, there are many exceptions to this, and the reasons for
the varying tints and colors are probably to be found in the changes in
position of the pearl, the ingredients of the water, the health of the mollusk,
accidents of various kinds, etc. These factors will be referred to later in
discussing the pearls from different mollusks and regions; but in general it
is no more easy to explain the colors of pearls than it is to say why one rose
is white and another is yellow.
Medieval writers had much to say regarding unripe or immature pearls,
likening them to eggs in the body of a hen, which follow a uniform rate of
growth; and this idea is not entirely absent even in contemporaneous
writings. However, it is an interesting fact that the humble mollusks, like
the five wise virgins with prepared lamps, keep their gems perfect in beauty
and luster at all times. It matters not whether the pearl be removed when it

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is only the size of a pinhead or not until it reaches that of a marble, it is at
all times a complete, a ripe, a perfect pearl, and the largest surpasses the
smallest only in the characteristics and properties which are incidental to
size. Imparting perfection and completion every day, every moment, the
mollusk utilizes the added time simply in enlarging its beautiful work.
Although art has made wonderful progress in that direction, the pearl,
like truth, is not easily imitated. There is as much difference between the
ubiquitous imitations and the perfect gem as there is between a
chromolithograph and a silvery Corot, or between the effects of cosmetics
and the freshness of youth. While to the unskilled, or under superficial
inspection, the false has some of the properties of the genuine, it is only
necessary to place them side by side to make the difference apparent.
However clever the imitation may be in color, in form, and in density, it
always lacks in richness, in sweetness, and in blended iridescence.

Page 97

V

SOURCES OF PEARLS

Page 98

V
SOURCES OF PEARLS

Rich honesty dwells like a miser, sir, in a poor house, as your pearl in your foul oyster.
As You Like It, Act V, sc. 4.

I
n geographic range, the sources of pearls are widely distributed, each
one of the six continents yielding its quota; but the places where
profitable fisheries are prosecuted are restricted in area. First in point
of value, and possibly of antiquity also, are the fisheries of the Persian
Gulf, giving employment ordinarily to thirty thousand or more divers. The
yield in the likewise ancient fisheries of the Gulf of Manaar is uncertain,
but sometimes remarkably large. The Red Sea resources are now of slight
importance compared with their extent in the time of the Ptolemies. Other
Asiatic fisheries are in the Gulf of Aden, about Mergui Archipelago, on the
coast of China, Japan, Korea, and Siam, and also in the rivers of China,
Manchuria, and Siberia.
Aside from those produced in the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aden, the
pearl fisheries of Africa are of small extent. Some reefs exist on the lower
coast of the German East African territory and also in Portuguese East
Africa, but they have not been thoroughly exploited.
In most of the inshore waters of Australasia pearls may be secured; the
fisheries are most extensive on the northern coast of Australia, in the Sulu
Archipelago, and about the Dutch East Indies. Tuamotu Archipelago,
Gambier, Fiji, and Penrhyn are prominent in the South Pacific Ocean.
In the seas of Europe few pearls have been found, but the rivers have
yielded many; and although the resources have been greatly impaired, many
beautiful gems are yet found there.

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South America contributes the important reefs on the coast of Venezuela
—the land of unrest and revolutions, whose fisheries were first exploited by
Columbus. Other South American countries in which pearls are collected
are Panama, Ecuador, Peru, etc. In North America, pearls are found in the
pearl-oyster of the Gulf of California, the abalone of the Pacific coast, the
queen conch of the Gulf of Mexico, and in the Unios of most of the rivers,
especially those of the Mississippi Valley.
Since pearly concretions partake of the characteristics of the shell within
which they are formed, it follows that practically all species of mollusks
whose shells have a well-developed nacreous lining yield pearls to a greater
or less extent. But the number of these species is relatively small. They
belong chiefly to the Margaritiferæ, or pearl-oyster family of the sea, and to
the Unionidæ, or family of fresh-water mussels. Pearls occur also in some
univalves, but not so abundantly as in bivalves of the families mentioned.
Broadly stated, we may hope to find pearls within any mollusk whose shell
possesses a nacreous surface; and it is useless to search for them in shells
whose interior is dull and opaque, such as the edible oyster for instance.
The great bulk of the pearls on the market, and likewise those of the
highest quality, are from the Margaritiferæ, which are widely distributed
about tropical waters. Although these mollusks are spoken of as pearl-
oysters, they are not related in any way to the edible oysters (Ostrea) of
America and Europe.[79] The flesh is fat and glutinous, and so rank in flavor
as to be almost unfit for food, although eaten at times by the poorer
fishermen in lieu of better fare. The origin of the name is doubtless due to
the fact that in the somewhat circular form of the shell they resemble
oysters rather than the elongated mussels of Europe, to which they are more
nearly related in anatomy. Also in that—like their namesakes—they are
monomyarian, having only one adductor muscle.
The two valves or sides of the pearl-oyster shell are nearly similar in
shape and almost equal in size; whereas in the edible oysters one valve is
thin and somewhat flat, while the other is thicker, larger, and highly convex.
In the latter, also, the hinge, or umbo, is an angular beak; but in the pearl-
oysters the umbo is prolonged by so-called ears or wings into a straight line
the length of which is nearly equal to the breadth of the shell.
The byssus, or bunch of fibers, by which pearl-oysters attach themselves
to the bottom indicates their relationship to the mussels. The possession of a

Page 100

small foot and somewhat extended migratory powers—at least in the first
years of growth—also distinguish them from the sedentary edible oysters.
But from an economic point of view, the principal difference is the
possession of a thick, nacreous, interior lining in the shells of pearl-oysters,
which is wholly lacking in the edible species. Like their namesakes, the
pearl-oysters are exceedingly fertile, a single specimen numbering its
annual increase by millions.
Commercially considered, the pearl-oysters are roughly divisible into two
groups, (1) those fished exclusively for the pearls which they contain, and
(2) those whose shells are so thick as to give them sufficient value to
warrant their capture independently of the yield of pearls. The best
examples of the first group are the pearl-oysters of Ceylon and of
Venezuela, and to a less extent those of the Persian Gulf, the coast of Japan,
and of Sharks Bay, on the Australian coast. Of the second group, the pearl-
oysters of Torres Straits and of the Malay Archipelago are the most
prominent members. Between these two groups are the many species and
varieties whose shells and pearls are more evenly divided with respect to
value, including those of Mexico, Panama, the Red Sea, the South Sea
islands, etc.
Some conchologists recognize a large number of species of
Margaritiferæ, while other authorities consider many of these as local
variations of the same species. There is much difference in the size, color,
and markings of the shells in different localities, owing to varying
geographical and physical conditions. The distinction of species and the
nomenclature herein adopted are those of Dr. H. L. Jameson, who has
recently revised and rearranged the collection of shells belonging to this
family in the British Museum of Natural History,[80] and to whom we are
indebted for descriptive notes relative to several of the species.
The greatest pearl-producer in the family of pearl-oysters is the
Margaritifera vulgaris of the Gulf of Manaar and the Persian Gulf, and to a
much less extent of the Red Sea. It occurs in various other inshore waters of
the Indian Ocean, and about the Malay Archipelago and the coast of
Australia and New Guinea, although it is not the principal pearl-oyster of
those waters. An interesting account of its immigration into the
Mediterranean Sea through the Suez Canal was given by Vassel in 1896.[81]

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This species is quite small, averaging two and a half inches in diameter in
Ceylon waters, and somewhat more in the Persian Gulf, whence large
quantities of the shell are exported under the name of “Lingah shell.” The
Ceylon variety has the nacreous lining almost uniformly white over the
entire surface, only the lip having a slightly pinkish ground color. The
exterior is marked by seven or eight reddish brown radial bands on a pale
yellow ground. In addition to its greater size, the Persian variety is darker,
and the lip of the shell has a reddish tinge.
For centuries the Margaritifera vulgaris has sustained the great pearl
fisheries of Ceylon, India, and Persia, and at present yields the bulk of
pearls on the market, especially the seed-pearls and also those of medium
size. It produces relatively few large ones, rarely exceeding twelve grains in
weight. These pearls are commonly silvery white, and for their size
command the highest prices, because of their beautiful form and superior
luster. Excepting the Venezuelan species, this is the only pearl-oyster which
at present supports extensive fisheries exclusively for pearls; in the fisheries
for all other species the value of the shells furnishes considerable revenue,
and in some localities this represents several times as much as the income
from the pearls.
Ranking next to Margaritifera vulgaris in extent of pearl production is
the Margaritifera margaritifera, which is widely distributed about the
tropical inshore waters of the Pacific and Indian oceans. It is very much
larger than the Lingah oyster, good specimens measuring seven or eight
inches in diameter, and the nacreous interior is usually of a darker color. In
addition to its yield of pearls, the shell of this species is of value in the
mother-of-pearl trade, and contributes largely to the economic results of the
fisheries. Indeed, in several regions the shell is of more value than the
pearls, which represent only an incidental yield. As Jameson notes, the
color and markings of the shell, though extremely variable, generally
suffice to distinguish this species. The ground color of the exterior ranges
through various shades from yellowish brown to very dark brown. Its
characteristic markings consist of from ten to eighteen radial rows of white
and yellow spots, running from the umbo, or hinge, to the margin.
Several varieties of Margaritifera margaritifera are recognized. The type
species occurs along the north coast of Australia, from Brisbane on the east
to Sharks Bay on the west; on the New Guinea coast; at Formosa; and about

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many of the islands of the Pacific. The well-known “black lip shell” of
Australian waters is of this species; it shows a greenish black on the margin
of the nacre. The yield of this is very small compared with that of the large
pearl-oyster of Australia.

SHELL OF PEARL-
OYSTER WITH ATTACHED
PEARL

(Margaritifera margaritifera
mazatlanica)

From Costa Rica

The Margaritifera margaritifera occurs on the eastern coast of Arabia in
two varieties, which differ somewhat from the type species. These have
been designated by Jameson as M. margaritifera persica and M.
margaritifera erythræensis. These are much larger than the Lingah shell of
the Persian Gulf, but are smaller than the Australian species. The percentage
of pearls in them is less than in the Lingah species, but from a commercial
point of view this is to some extent offset by the greater value of the shell.
The M. m. persica is more numerous in the gulf than the M. m.
erythræensis, and large quantities of the shell are marketed in Europe.
Formerly the shipments were made principally by way of Bombay, hence
the shell is known in the mother-of-pearl trade as “Bombay shell.” The
exterior is of a light grayish or greenish brown color, with yellowish white
radial bands. The nacre has a slightly roseate tint, and the margin is
greenish yellow. The pearls found herein are more yellowish in color and
attain a larger size than those from the Lingah oyster.

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The M. m. erythræensis occurs also in the Red Sea and along the shores
of the Arabian Sea. Among mother-of-pearl dealers it is known as
“Egyptian shell” or “Alexandria shell,” owing to the fact that prior to the
opening of the Suez Canal shipments were commonly made by way of
Alexandria. The color of the nacre is darker than that of its related variety in
the Persian Gulf. In the trade, three grades of this shell are recognized,
classed according to the shade of color. The lightest comes from Massowah
and near the southern end of the Red Sea, and the darkest from farther
north, in the vicinity of Jiddah and Suakim.
The islands of the southern Pacific, and of eastern Polynesia especially,
yield another variety of M. margaritifera, to which the name M. m. cumingi
has been given. The nacre is of a dark metallic green, and in the mother-of-
pearl trade the shell is designated as “black-edged.” It attains a large size,
only slightly smaller than the large Australian species; many individual
specimens measure ten inches in diameter, and weigh six or seven pounds
for the two valves. Belonging to this variety are those oysters whose shells
are known in the markets of Europe and America as “Tahiti,” “Gambier,”
and “Auckland” shells, the name designating the port of shipment.
Yet another subspecies, the M. m. mazatlanica, occurs on the coasts of
Panama and Mexico, and especially in the Gulf of California. This is
likewise green-edged, and the exterior color is yellow or light brown. This
shell has been marketed in quantities since 1850, and is known in the
mother-of-pearl trade as “Panama shell.” It is smaller than the Australian
species, specimens rarely exceeding eight inches in diameter. It yields a
large percentage of the black pearls that have been so fashionable in the last
fifty years.
Since 1870, the largest pearls have been found mainly in a very large
species of pearl-oyster, Margaritifera maxima, obtained off the north and
west coasts of Australia, among the Sulu Islands, and elsewhere in the
Malay Archipelago. In the fisheries for this species, the mother-of-pearl is
the principal object sought, and the pearls are obtained incidentally. It is the
largest of all the members of this family, reaching in exceptional cases
twelve or thirteen inches in diameter, and weighing upward of twelve
pounds; while the Ceylon oyster rarely exceeds four ounces in weight. So
marked is this difference, that the Australian species is often designated the
“mother-of-pearl oyster,” and the Ceylon species the “pearl-oyster.”

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Jameson notes that it differs from the Margaritifera margaritifera, its
nearest competitor in size, in its much longer hinge, its shape, its lesser
convexity, and in its color and markings. As described by him, the color
ranges from pale yellowish brown to deep brown, with traces of radial
markings of dark brown, green, or red in the umbonal area. In its marginal
region, the shell is marked by a series of circumferential lines about one
third of a millimeter apart.
Several geographical varieties of this species are recognized in the
mother-of-pearl trade, differing principally in the coloring of the interior
surface. The chief commercial varieties are “Sydney” or “Queensland,”
“Port Darwin,” “West Australian,” “New Guinea,” “Manila,” “Macassar,”
and “Mergui.” The nacre of those from the Australian coast is almost
uniformly silvery white. That of the “Manila shell” is characterized by a
broad golden border surrounding the silvery white nacre. The “Macassar
shell” lacks the golden border of the “Manila shell,” and is similar in its
uniform whiteness to the “Sydney shell,” but its iridescence is much greater.
The Margaritifera carcharium, from Sharks Bay, on the coast of
Australia, yields yellow pearls and small quantities of mother-of-pearl. This
species is small—three or four inches in diameter. The color is grayish or
greenish yellow, with several somewhat indistinct radial bands of brownish
green. The nacre has a yellowish green tint, with a margin of pale yellow,
with brown markings.
In the West Indies and on the Atlantic coast of tropical America,
especially the coast of Venezuela, occurs the Margaritifera radiata. This
species is quite small, and seems to be closely allied to the Ceylon oyster.
Like the latter, the nacreous interior is rich and brilliant, but owing to its
small size, the shell is wholly valueless as mother-of-pearl. The principal
and almost the only fishery for this species is on the Venezuelan coast, in
the vicinity of Margarita Island, the islands of Cubagua, and Coche.
The coast of Japan yields the Margaritifera martensi, which occurs
among the numerous islands in the southern part of the empire, but does not
extend beyond 40° north latitude. This species is likewise small, and closely
resembles the pearl-oyster of Ceylon, from which it differs principally in
coloration. As noted by Jameson, brown and white predominate in the
exterior coloring, and the interior of the lip is marbled with yellow ocher
and chocolate brown, instead of pink, as in the Ceylon shell.

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There are numerous other species of pearl-oysters, but they are of slight
economic importance, and do not support fisheries of value.
As only a small percentage of the individual mollusks contain pearls, it
follows that vast quantities are destroyed without any return whatever, and
handling them merely adds to the expense of the industry, as well as
reduces the resources of the reefs. This could be obviated if it were
possible, without opening them, to determine the individual mollusks
containing pearls.
Among the several methods proposed for this purpose, especially
interesting is the use of X-rays, which was suggested by Raphael Dubois of
Lyons, France, in 1901.[82] The shells of some pearl-oysters—those of
Ceylon and of Venezuela for instance—are relatively thin, and it was
thought that by the means of the rays the presence of pearls could be
ascertained, and non-pearl-bearers could be saved from opening, and be
returned to the reefs without injury. Although the calcareous shell partly
interrupts the radiations, it is not difficult to recognize the presence of large
pearls.
The theory has never been found practical in application, owing largely
to the rough and irregular exterior of the shell and the small size of the
pearls. The presence of the larger pearls may be ascertained by this method;
but it is exceedingly probable that a very large percentage of the small ones,
and especially the seed-pearls, would be overlooked. Furthermore, if in
their sixth year oysters contain no pearls, the probability of appearance
therein later is very small, and little benefit would result from their return to
the water. As to saving the trouble of opening the non-pearl-bearing
mollusks, labor in the pearling regions is usually inexpensive, and this cost
is far more than offset by the reasonable certainty of securing practically all
the small as well as the large pearls by the present method of operation.
Owing to the greater thickness and the economic value of the large pearl-
oysters—as those of Australia or of Mexico, for instance—the application
of X-rays to them is obviously impractical. However, when pearl-oyster
culture becomes a highly developed industry, with personal ownership in
those mollusks returned to the water, some method such as this might be of
great value.
Pearls are yielded by various species of Unionidæ or Naiades occurring
in the rivers of America, Scotland, Saxony, Bavaria, Norway, Sweden,

Page 106

Russia, France, China, etc. These mollusks exist exclusively in the fresh-
water streams, lakes, and ponds, and quickly die when submerged in salt
water. The Unionidæ are of particular interest in America, as it is here that
this group is most abundant, and nearly every stream east of the Rocky
Mountains contains more or less of them. The Mississippi basin abounds in
Unios, or “clams,” as they are known to the fishermen of that region, and
furnishes about 400 of the 1000 recognized species of this important family.
The Unios are most abundant in clear, running water, where the bottom is
gravelly or sandy. The interiors of the shells are iridescent, and vary greatly
in tint, exhibiting many delicate shades of color from silvery white to straw
color, pink, purple, brown, etc.
About five hundred species of American fresh-water mussels have been
recognized by conchologists. Many of these differ from one another so very
slightly that they are scarcely distinguishable from an examination of the
shells themselves, or even from the descriptions, and a detailed index to the
complete list is of little economic importance. The professional fishermen
and the shell-buyers take the trouble to name only the species with which
they deal, which includes only about twenty-five species, all of which are
margaritiferous, though some to a greater extent than others. In the pearling
regions a popular nomenclature exists, the names given by the fishermen
having reference to the shape, color, etc.
The niggerhead (Quadrula ebena) is the most numerous in the
Mississippi, and it is extensively used in button manufacture. The thick
shell of this species is almost round, with a black outer surface and a pearly
white interior. At maturity it averages about four inches in diameter and
four ounces in weight. Owing to its uniform whiteness and the flatness of
its surface, it is well adapted to button manufacture, and for this purpose
more than twenty thousand tons are taken in the Mississippi Valley every
year. When the fishery originated, the niggerhead was very abundant in
some places, and especially between La Crosse and Burlington. From a
single bed near New Boston, Illinois, measuring about 200 acres in area,
7500 tons, or about 70,000,000 individual shells, were removed in three
years. In 1897, a bed of 320 acres near Muscatine furnished 500 tons, or
about 4,750,000 shells. This species occasionally yields valuable pearls.
Two species of Unios, Quadrula undulata and Q. plicata, are known
among the fishermen as “three-ridges.” The former is also known as the

Page 107

“blue-point” from the fact that the sharp edge is usually tinged faint blue on
the inside. Although not the best for button manufacture, the shells yield the
greatest number of pearls.

PINNA OR WING SHELL
(Pinna seminuda)

One third natural size

PEARL-OYSTER OF
CEYLON (Margaritifera
vulgaris)

Natural size

A species somewhat similar to the niggerhead is the bullhead
(Pleurobema æsopus). This shell is thick and opaque, the nacre is not so
iridescent as that of the niggerhead, nor does it yield pearls of such good

Page 108

quality. These two species are not evenly distributed over the bottom of the
streams, but occur in great patches or beds, sometimes several feet in
thickness and covering many hundreds of acres. Some of the beds are
several miles in length, and they may be separated by twenty or thirty miles
in which the mollusks are so scarce that profitable fishing can not be made;
but usually the reefs are smaller and more closely situated.
The sand shells (Lampsilis)—of which there are several species—do not
occur in large beds, but are scattered over the sandy beaches and sloping
mud-banks. In shape they are narrow and long, adults measuring five or six
inches in length. Owing to the small waste in cutting, due to uniformity in
thickness, these shells are sold to button manufacturers for more than the
niggerhead, which in turn is more valuable than the bullhead.
The buckhorn (Tritigonia verrucosa) is very long and narrow; on the dark
brown exterior it is rough, as is the horn from which it takes its name, while
the interior shows a beautiful display of colors. This is not found in beds,
but lies scattered among other species. It sells at a relatively high price—
usually in excess of $20 per ton—for button manufacture.
Another species is the butterfly (Plagiola securis), which is very prettily
marked on the outside with faintly colored dotted stripes of varying length.
Over a background of dark yellow run black stripes to the outer edge of the
shell, with dark dots between the stripes. The shell is small and thick, and
like the sand shell and the buckhorn, is found in small quantities. Owing to
the beauty and permanency of its luster, this shell is in demand for button
manufacture, and its pearls are often very beautiful.
Other well-known species are the pancake (Lampsilis alatus), the maple-
leaf (Quadrula wardi), and hackle-back (Symphynota complanata). On the
Atlantic seaboard, the principal species in which pearls have been found are
Unio complanata; the Alasmodon arcuata, which has hinge teeth, and a
species of Anodon. Pearls from the Unio complanata are usually smaller
but more lustrous than those from either of the other species.
Among the many fresh-water mussels are found some remarkable
conditions of animal life. Probably the most curious is the parasitic stage of
certain species. When hatched from the egg, each one of these is provided
with hooks or spines, by means of which it attaches itself to the gills or fins
of a swimming fish and becomes embedded therein. After confinement in
this cyst for a period of two months or more, the small mollusk works its

Page 109

way out and falls to the bottom of the river or pond, where its development
continues along lines more conventional to molluscan life.
In most of the species of Unios the sexes are separate; but it has been
determined that in some the individuals are provided with both sets of
sexual organs. It is claimed by some naturalists that certain species may
change from one sex to another; yet this does not seem to have been
positively established.
Not the least interesting of the habits of the Unios is the manner in which
they “walk,” bushels of them changing their habitation in a few hours. The
shell opens slightly and the muscular tongue-like “foot” is thrust out, and by
pressure of this on the bottom, the mollusk is propelled in a jerky, jumpy
movement with more speed than one would suppose possible for the
apparently inert creature.
The number of eggs produced by an individual in one season ranges from
a few hundred in some species to many millions in others, as in the
Quadrula heros, for instance. Most of the fresh-water mollusks are of slow
growth, reaching maturity in six or eight years, and it is believed that if
undisturbed they live to be from fifteen to fifty years old; indeed, some
writers credit them with attaining an age of one hundred years.
While outwardly there is no positive indication of the existence of pearls,
they are relatively scarce in young mollusks, and likewise in those having a
normal, healthy appearance, with smooth exterior free from blemishes, and
they are found generally in the older, irregular, and deformed shells, which
bear excrescences and the marks of having parasites. However, some of the
choicest pearls have come from shells relatively young and apparently in
perfect condition.
It has been pointed out that with the fresh-water Unios there are three
indications on which the fishermen to some extent rely for determining the
presence of pearls from the outward aspects of the shell. There are, first, the
thread or elevated ridge extending from the vertex to the edge; second, the
kidney-shape of the shell, and third, the contortion of both valves toward
the middle plane of the mollusk.
A single mollusk may contain several small pearls,—more than one
hundred have been found,—but in such cases usually none has commercial
value. Ordinarily only one is found in the examination of very many shells.
Of these objects it may be truthfully said that “many are found, but few are

Page 110

chosen,” few that are of first quality or are worthy of a fine necklace. In
many instances, several pounds of cheap pearls would be gladly exchanged
for a choice gem weighing an equal number of grains.
On the Atlantic seaboard of America, the Anodontas, or “mussels,” as
they are known locally, are more numerous than the Unios. They prefer the
still waters of the ponds and lakes, rather than the swift currents of the
streams. The shell is much thinner than that of the Unios, and it is usually
not so brilliant in color and iridescence; consequently the pearly concretions
obtained from them are less lustrous.
The rivers of Europe, and of Asia also, contain numbers of pearl-bearing
mussels. In many localities the yield of pearls has at times attracted
attention and produced much profit, though probably never equaling the
present extent of the Mississippi River finds. The principal pearl-bearer of
Europe is the Unio margaritifera, the shell of which has been of some local
importance in the manufacture of pearl buttons. In Great Britain it is known
as the pearl-mussel; in France as the moule or huître perlière; in Germany
as perlenmuschel; in Belgium as paarl mossel de rivieren; in Denmark as
perle-skiael; in Sweden as perlmussla; in Russia as schemtschuschuaja
rakavina, and in Finland as simpsuckan cuosi. The Unio margaritifera
likewise exists in Siberia, and possibly elsewhere in Asia. Other species of
Unio exist there and in Mongolia, Manchuria, etc., as, for instance, U.
mongolicus, U. dahuricus, etc. A leading species in eastern China, the
Dipsas plicatus, has long been extensively employed in the artificial
production of pearly objects or culture pearls.[83] Unio pearls show less
uniformity of tints than those derived from the pearl-oysters. They present
an extended series of shades, corresponding to those on the interior of the
shells, from almost perfect white through various tints of cream, pink,
yellow, bright red, blue, green, russet, and brown. The metallic shades are
numerous, especially the steels and the coppers.
Most of the members of the Mytilidæ family, which includes the marine
mussels, are of slight luster; and the pearly concretions found in them are of
the grade known as “druggists’ pearls,” so-called because, formerly, they
were used in a powdered form in astringent and other medicines. However,
some of these mussels on the European coast yield pearls that are fairly
lustrous. The white and the pink are most numerous, but purple, red,
bronze, and yellow are by no means uncommon.

Page 111

A few pearls are also obtained from the sea-wings or wing-shells (Pinna),
the silkworms of the sea, found in the Red Sea, the Mediterranean Sea, the
Indian Ocean, the southern coast of America, and elsewhere. These shells
are narrow at the umbo, or hinge, long, and fan-shaped; they are generally
brittle, and present a horn-like appearance. The interior is commonly of a
silvery reddish or orange-colored hue, and this tint is imparted to the pearls.
The most characteristic feature of the Pinna is the thick rope of silky fibers,
from four to ten, and sometimes twenty or more inches in length,
constituting the byssus, a remarkable provision by means of which it
anchors itself to the bottom and thus outrides the storm. Formerly the
byssus was gathered in Sicily, washed in soap and water, dried, corded, and
fabricated into gloves and similar articles of a fine texture. The finished
garments were of a beautiful golden brown color, resembling the burnished
gold on the backs of some splendid flies or beetles.
The yield of Pinna pearls is very small. A few are obtained from the
Mediterranean, especially on the Adriatic coast. These are usually rose-
tinted or reddish in color, but of diminished orient, and inferior in size.
Pinna pearls are also reported from the Isle of Pines and from New
Caledonia, where they are commonly very dark, almost black in color.
The window-glass shell (Placuna placenta), the vitre chinoise of some
writers, yields a few small, irregularly shaped pearls of a dull leaden color.
It occurs in the inshore waters of the Indian and the southwestern Pacific
oceans; fisheries are prosecuted in Tablegram Lake, near Trincomali, on the
northeast coast of Ceylon; on the coast of Borneo, especially at Pados Bay,
and to a less extent in some other localities. This mollusk is quite distinct
from the true pearl-oyster, and in adult life is devoid of the byssus, living on
the muddy bottom of the shallow waters. The shell is almost circular, the
right valve is quite flat, and the left only slightly convex. It is remarkable
for its transparency, especially in the first year of growth, when the beating
of the heart of the mollusk is visible through it. Reaching maturity in about
two years, the shell becomes white and translucent, resembling pressed
isinglass somewhat in its texture. It then measures about six or seven inches
in length, and nearly the same in width. The outside is rough; the interior is
glazed over and has a subdued pearly luster. It is so thin and transparent that
with a strong light very coarse print can be read through it. It is commonly
used in the East Indies as a substitute for glass in windows, admitting a soft
mellow light into the room. For this purpose it is usually cut into small

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rectangular or diamond-shaped pieces, about five or six square inches in
area, and these are inserted into sash frames. It forms a good economical
substitute for glass, not only in windows of native residences, but also in
lanterns and the like.

SHELL AND PEARLS OF
THE COMMON CONCH

(Strombus gigas)

Of Florida and the West
Indies

The giant clam (Tridacna gigas) of tropical waters yields a few large
opal-white symmetrical pearls, with faint luster and of little value. The
transversely oval shell of the Tridacna, with its great squamous ribs, is
probably the largest and heaviest in existence, single pairs weighing upward
of 500 pounds. It is found in tropical seas, and especially in the Indian
Ocean. It is much used for ornament, particularly for fountain-basins, and
for bénitiers, or holy-water fonts. A beautiful pair used as bénitiers in the
Church of St. Sulpice in Paris is said to have been a gift of the Republic of
Venice to Francis I. There seems to be no established fishery for this
mollusk, and the pearls very rarely come on the market. About four years
ago in New York City an effort was made to market one weighing about
200 grains. The owner represented that it was a “cocoanut pearl,” and

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offered to sell it for $2000; whereas its actual value was probably not over
$10 or $20, and that only for a museum collection.
Pearls of slight luster also occur in the quahog, or hard clam (Venus
mercenaria), of the Atlantic coast of the United States. Although these are
rare, they are generally of good form, and some weigh upward of eighty
grains each. They are commonly of dark color, purplish, ordinarily, but they
may be white, pale lilac, brown, and even purplish black, or black. The
white ones—which so nearly resemble ivory buttons as readily to pass for
them at a casual glance—are of little value; but fine dark ones have retailed
at from $10 to $100 each. There is little demand for them, for unless the
color is very good, they possess slight beauty, lacking the orient peculiar to
choice pearls. Pearls have also been reported from the edible clam of the
Pacific coast of America.
Shelly concretions are found in the edible oyster of America (Ostrea
virginica), as well as in that of Europe (O. edulis); but these are commonly
objects of personal interest or of local curiosity, rather than of artistic or
commercial value, as they are lacking in luster and iridescence. Most of
them are dull or opal-white, some are purple, and a few are white on one
side and purple on the other. As many as fifty of these formations have been
found in a single oyster. Sometimes they are of odd appearance, suggesting
the human eye or face, and recently one was found which bore a striking
resemblance to a human skull. Notwithstanding many news items to the
contrary, it is doubtful whether the choicest pearl from an edible oyster
would sell for as high as $20 on its own merits; professional shuckers have
opened thousands of bushels of oysters without finding one which would
sell for ten cents.
Among univalves, the most prominent pearl-producer is probably the
common conch or great conch (Strombus gigas) of the West Indies and the
Florida coast, which secretes beautiful pink pearls of considerable value.
This is one of the largest of the univalve shells, some individuals measuring
twelve inches in length, and weighing five or six pounds. The graceful
curves and the delicate tints of lovely pink color make it exceedingly
attractive. The conch abounds in the waters of the West Indies, especially in
the Bahamas, where many thousands are annually taken for the shell, which
forms quite an article of commerce. The flesh is esteemed as food and is

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also used for bait; and it is particularly in preparing for these purposes that
the pearls are found, as no established fisheries exist for the pearls alone.
The ear-shells or abalones (Haliotidæ) found on the coasts of California,
Japan, New Zealand, and other localities in the Pacific, secrete pearly
concretions, sometimes with fine luster, but usually of small value. These
shells resemble in general outline the form of the human ear. Distinguishing
characteristics are the flatly-spiral bowl-like shape, and the regular series of
holes in the back near the distal margin, for the admission of water to the
respiratory organs. The holes are on the left side and parallel with the
columellar lip, and those nearest the apex close up as the shell increases in
size. The shells are rough externally, but beautifully nacreous within. In
variety and intensity of coloring, the nacre is superior to that of the pearl-
oysters, but it is not so harmonious, and it does not form so thick and flat a
layer.
Abalone pearls are especially interesting on account of their brilliant and
unusual colors. Green predominates, but blue and yellow also occur.
Although commonly very small, some of the well formed ones exceed
seventy-five grains in weight, and those of irregular shape may be very
much larger. The ear-shells also produce many irregular pearly masses.
Although these are without an established commercial value, their beautiful
greenish or bluish tints adapt them for artistic jeweled objects, such as the
body of a fly or of a beetle.
Similar concretions are found in species of turbos and turbinella,
especially the Indian chank (Turbinella rapa), which yields pink and pale
red pearls. The pearly nautilus (Nautilus pompilius) yields a few yellowish
pearls, especially those taken in Australian waters; but from the paper
nautilus—“the sea-born sailor of his shell canoe”—no pearls are obtained,
owing to the non-lustrous nature of the shell.
In bygone days, especially in Asia, and also to some extent in Europe,
pearls were credited as coming from many non-molluscan sources. The
Rabbis had the idea that they came also from fish, as noted in the story of a
tailor who was rewarded by finding a pearl in one which he bought (Gen. R.
xi. 5). The Raganighantu of Narahari, a Kashmir physician of about 1240
A.D., reported them as coming from bamboos, cocoanuts, heads of
elephants, bears, serpents, whales, fish, etc.;[84] although it conceded that
these were deficient in luster, which is recognized as the characteristic

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feature of pearls. We understand, therefore, that this use of the word
signifies only hard concretions of a spherical form. In the apology for his
book, prison-bound Bunyan wrote:
A pearl may in a toad’s head dwell,
And may be found in an oyster shell.

The crystal gems—the diamonds, rubies, etc.—are practically unlimited
in their longevity, existing thousands of years unchanged in condition.
Except those which have been discovered by man, the earth contains about
as many as it ever did, and it is not unreasonable to suppose that in course
of time a considerable percentage of the total will be discovered. But in the
seas as well as in the rivers, the longevity of pearls is greatly restricted, and
Full many a gem of purest ray serene
The dark, unfathomed caves of ocean bear[85]

to run their course of existence and decay unseen and unknown. Perishable
while in the seas, almost as cereals and fruits on land, the harvest must be
gathered with promptness or it is wasted. And it seems probable that only a
small percentage of the beautiful gems produced in the waters have
gladdened the sight of man.
With considerable hesitancy we have attempted to estimate the number of
persons employed in the pearl fisheries of the world, and the aggregate local
value of their catch. For two or three regions, this is not a matter of great
difficulty. For instance, the divers employed in the Ceylon fishery are
numbered each season, and the auction sales of their catch furnish a
reasonably satisfactory basis for determining the value of the output.
Likewise in Australia, Venezuela, and some minor localities, the fishermen
are numbered; but the reports are less satisfactory as to the value of the
pearls. In the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea, the Gulf of California, and the
islands of the Pacific, where pearl-diving is a profession and a regular
source of livelihood, the number of employees is fairly constant. But in the
rivers and ponds of America, as well as of Europe and of Asia, where
neither experience nor costly equipment is required for the industry, and
pearls to the value of very many thousands of dollars are obtained by men,
women, and even children, on pleasure bent, as well as in the widely
fluctuating professional fisheries, the problem is far more difficult.

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Contending with these many difficulties, we venture to present the
following estimate of the number of persons employed in the pearl fisheries
of the world, and the value of the output in 1906.

Localities. Pearls
Fishermen Local Shells Local
No. Values. Values.
Asia:
Persian Gulf 35,000 $4,000,000 $110,000
Ceylon[86] 18,500 1,200,000 40,000
India 1,250 100,000 95,000
Red Sea, Gulf of Aden, etc.[87] 3,000 200,000 150,000
China, Japan, Siberia, etc. 20,000 400,000 50,000

Total 77,750 $5,900,000 $445,000
Europe:
British Isles 200 15,000
Continent of Europe 1,000 100,000 3,000

Total 1,200 $115,000 $3,000
Islands of the Pacific:
South Sea islands 4,500 125,000 500,000
Australian coast[88] 6,250 450,000 1,200,000
Malay Archipelago 5,000 300,000 800,000

Total 15,750 $875,000 $2,500,000
America:
United States rivers 8,500 650,000 350,000
Venezuela 1,900 275,000 10,000
Mexico 1,250 210,000 200,000
Panama 400 40,000 75,000
Miscellaneous 1,000 75,000 25,000

Total 13,050 $1,250,000 $660,000

Grand total 107,750 $8,140,000 $3,608,000

Our returns do not represent the annual output of pearls in the values best
known to gem buyers. The difference in price between pearls in the

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fisherman’s hands in the Persian Gulf or at the Pacific islands, and that for
which they are exchanged over the counters in New York or Paris, is nearly
as great as the difference in value of wool on the sheep’s back and of the
same material woven into fashionable fabrics. For each dollar received by
the fisherman, the retail buyer probably pays three; and it is not
unreasonable to suppose that the pearls herein represented probably sold
ultimately for an aggregate of $24,420,000.
This summary falls far short in giving a correct idea of the importance of
the pearl fisheries in furnishing a livelihood to humanity; for it takes no
consideration of that great body of men who contribute incidentally to the
prosecution of the fisheries, such as shell-openers, pearl-washers,
watchmen, cooks, laborers, etc. In the Ceylon pearl fishery of 1906, for
instance, our estimate shows 18,500 fishermen; but there were 40,000
persons engaged at the pearl camp alone, and many others were given
employment in boat-building, supplying provisions, selling the pearls, etc.,
and this does not include the wives and children depending on the industry
for sustenance. Indeed, it seems not unreasonable to estimate that instead of
only the 18,500 fishermen, 85,000 persons were in a large measure
dependent for their livelihood on the Ceylon fishery in 1906.
Estimated on the same basis, we have a total of 500,000 persons
depending largely on the pearl fisheries of the world for their support. Thus
we see that pearl buyers and pearl wearers not only gratify a commendable
admiration for the beautiful, but contribute largely to the economic balance
whereby one class of humanity either sustains or is dependent upon another,
even though these classes be so widely separated as the crown of Russia
from the half-starved diver of the tropical seas. How strange is the
providence of God, who, by granting the pearl to the poor Arab, the Tamil
of India, the South Sea Islander, and the forgotten Selang of Mergui, makes
the greatest and wealthiest in the world contribute to their support.

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VI

PEARLS FROM ASIA

THE PERSIAN GULF, FISHERIES OF INDIA, CEYLON
PEARL FISHERIES, RED SEA AND ARABIAN SEA,
CHINA, JAPAN, SIBERIA, ETC.

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VI
THE PEARL FISHERIES OF THE PERSIAN GULF

Dear as the wet diver to the eyes
Of his pale wife, who waits and weeps on shore,
By sands of Bahrein in the Persian Gulf;
Plunging all day in the blue waves; at night,
Having made up his toll of precious pearls,
Rejoins her in their hut upon the shore.

Sir Edwin Arnold.

T
he pearl fisheries of the Persian Gulf are the most famous and
valuable in the world, and have been prosecuted for more than
two thousand years. A translation by that eminent Assyriologist,
Jules Oppert, of a cuneiform inscription on a broken obelisk,
erected presumably by a king of Nineveh, seems to indicate a very early
origin for these fisheries.[89] Professor Oppert’s translation is:
In the sea of the changeable winds (i.e., the Persian Gulf),
his merchants fished for pearls;
In the sea where the North Star culminates,
they fished for yellow amber.

The earliest writing of Europeans on the East refer to these fisheries. An
account of them was given by the Greek writer Megasthenes, who
accompanied Seleucus Nicator, the Macedonian general, in his Asiatic
conquests, about 307 B.C. Shortly afterward they were noted by the Greek
historian, Isidorus of Charace, in his account of the Parthian Empire.
Extracts from Nearchus preserved by Arrian also mention them. Ptolemy
speaks of the pearl fisheries which existed from time immemorial at Tylos,
the Roman name for the present Island of Bahrein. These resources were
well known in the days of Pliny. In his “Historia Naturalis,” Book IX, ch.

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35, he says: “But the most perfect and exquisite [pearls] of all others be
they that are gotten about Arabia, within the Persian Gulf.”[90] Pliny states
also (Book VI, ch. 25) that Catifa (El Katiff), on the Arabian coast opposite
Bahrein, was the center of an important fishery.
In the ninth century these fisheries were noted by Massoudi, one of the
earliest Arabian geographers.[91] In the latter part of the twelfth century they
were visited and described by the Spanish-Hebrew traveler, Rabbi
Benjamin of Tudela.[92] The Arabian traveler, Ibn Batuta, wrote of them
about 1336.[93] In 1508 they were noted in the account of Lodovico
Barthema’s expedition to the Island of Ormus. According to him:
At three days’ journey from this island they fished the largest pearls which are found in the world;
and whoever wishes to know about it, behold! There are certain fishermen who go there in small
boats and cast into the water two large stones attached to ropes, one at the bow, the other at the stern
of each boat to stay it in place. Then one of the fishermen hangs a sack from his neck, attaches a large
stone to his feet, and descends to the bottom—about fifteen paces under water, where he remains as
long as he can, searching for oysters which bear pearls, and puts as many as he finds into his sack.
When he can remain no longer, he casts off the stone attached to his feet, and ascends by one of the
ropes fastened to the boat. There are so many connected with the business that you will often see 300
of these little boats which come from many countries.[94]
Shortly following the visit of Barthema, the Portuguese under
Albuquerque took possession of the principal ports of the Persian Gulf, and
they imposed heavy taxes on the pearl fishery throughout the century of
their retention. While under their jurisdiction, the fisheries were visited and
described by J. H. van Linschoten in 1596, who wrote:
The principall and the best that are found in all the Orientall Countries, and the right Orientall
pearles, are between Ormus and Bassora in the straights, or Sinus Persicus, in the places called
Bareyn, Catiffa, Julfar, Camaron, and other places in the said Sinus Persicus, from whence they are
brought into Ormus. The king of Portingale hath also his factor in Bareyn, that stayeth there onlie for
the fishing of pearles. There is great trafficke used with them, as well in Ormus as in Goa.[95]

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Cargo boat in pearl fishery of the Persian Gulf

Huts of mats and palm leaves, the homes of the pearl
fishermen at Menamah, Bahrein Islands, Persian Gulf

This was the Ormus where the treasures of the Orient were gathered in
abundance, the half-way house between the East and the West, making it
one of the greatest emporia of the world. So renowned was its wealth and
commerce that it was a saying among the Portuguese, were the whole world
a golden ring, Ormus would be the jeweled signet. It was built on an island,
supported a population of 40,000 persons, and was particularly well situated
as a distributing point for the pearls, which enriched the argosies of
Portugal, and contributed so largely to

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the wealth of Ormus and of Ind,
Or where the gorgeous East with richest hand
Show’rs on her kings barbaric pearl and gold,

which Milton celebrates in “Paradise Lost.” This wonderful Ormus, in the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries one of the wealthiest places in the
world, is now only a fishing village of less than a hundred huts.
It was at Ormus, nearly a century later, in 1670, that the shrewd old jewel
merchant, Tavernier, whose acquaintance with gems doubtless equaled that
of any man of his time, saw what he called “the most beautiful pearl in the
world”; not so much for its size, for it weighed only 48¼ grains, nor for its
regularity in form, but because of its most wonderful luster.[96]
In describing the fisheries, which had been retaken by the Persians in
1622, Tavernier wrote in 1670, according to Ball’s translation:
There is a pearl fishery round the island of Bahren, in the Persian Gulf. It belongs to the King of
Persia, and there is a good fortress there, where a garrison of 300 men is kept.... When the Portuguese
held Hormuz [Ormus] and Muscat, each boat which went to fish was obliged to take out a license
from them, which cost fifteen abassis [$5.45], and many brigantines were maintained there, to sink
those who were unwilling to take out licenses. But since the Arabs have retaken Muscat, and the
Portuguese are no longer supreme in the Gulf, every man who fishes pays to the King of Persia only
five abassis, whether his fishing is successful or not. The merchant also pays the king something
small for every 1,000 oysters. The second pearl fishery is opposite Bahren, on the coast of Arabia
Felix, close to the town of El Katif, which, with all the neighboring country, belongs to an Arab
prince.[97]
During the century following Tavernier’s time, the fisheries were
vigorously prosecuted, owing to the impoverished condition of the reefs in
India and America, and to the large demand for pearls, not only by the
Oriental courts, but by the wealth and fashion of Europe. Except for the last
four years, when the Ceylon fishery was very productive, throughout the
eighteenth century the Persian Gulf was almost the only important source of
supply for pearls. For several years following the reopening of the Ceylon
fishery in 1796, that region diverted some of the attention which the Persian
waters had been receiving, but it was not long before these regained their
ascendancy.
In 1838, Lieutenant J. R. Wellsted, an officer in the British India service,
reported that the fisheries of the gulf employed 4300 boats, manned by
somewhat more than 30,000 men.[98] Of these boats, 3500 were from the
Island of Bahrein, 100 from the Persian coast, and the remaining 700 from
the Pirate Coast situated between Bahrein and the entrance to the Gulf of
Oman. Lieutenant Wellsted estimated the value of the pearls secured

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annually as approximately £400,000, which is somewhat less than the
average value of the output in recent years.
Twenty-seven years later, according to Sir Lewis Pelly,[99] who was in the
Indian service from 1851 to 1877, there were 1500 boats at Bahrein, and the
annual return from the whole fishery was £400,000, the same as previously
reported by Wellsted. In 1879, the value of the output was estimated at
£600,000 by the British Resident, Colonel Ross, and at £800,000 by
Captain L. E. Durand, of the British Protectorate of the Persian Gulf. Owing
to the increased market value, the average output in the last five years has
amounted to approximately four million dollars annually. This refers to the
local value only, which is greatly increased by the time the pearls leave the
markets in Bombay and Bagdad.
The Persian Gulf is nearly 600 miles long, with an average width of
somewhat more than 100 miles. The Strait of Ormus—thirty to sixty miles
wide—connects it with the Gulf of Oman, which opens directly into the
Arabian Sea. The depth of water rarely exceeds thirty fathoms. Oyster reefs
are well distributed throughout the gulf, and are in greatest abundance on
the Arab side between the 24th and 27th degrees of north latitude and the
50th and 54th degrees of east longitude, at a distance of from a few hundred
yards to sixty miles from the shore, and especially in the vicinity of the
Bahrein Islands. The oysters are scattered over level areas of coral rock and
sand, with depths ranging from two to eighteen fathoms.[100] The divers
rarely descend in deeper water than twelve fathoms, notwithstanding that
valuable pearls are apparently obtainable at greater depths.
Although the British Protectorate extends over the Persian Gulf, insuring
the peaceful prosecution of the fisheries and the settlement of intertribal
contentions by the government resident, the fisheries are under the
regulations of the maritime Arab sheiks. The restrictions imposed by these,
however, are principally with a view to collecting a revenue from each boat
employed. The total amount realized thereby is unknown, but there is good
reason for supposing that it is considerable.

Page 124

AGHA MOHAMMED
(1666–1725)

Founder of the present
Persian dynasty

From a Persian manuscript in
the library of Robert Hoe,
Esq.

Page 125

SHAH SULAIMAN (1647–
1694)

From a Persian manuscript in
the library of Robert Hoe,
Esq.

The fisheries are carried on during the greater part of every year,
presenting a strong contrast to the Ceylon fishery, which is prosecuted
usually less than forty days, and in only about one year in three on an
average. This is especially remarkable when it is considered that no
particular care is taken of the Persian reefs and, except for certain tribal
restrictions, the fishermen may work whenever and wherever they choose.
Owing to the extended area over which the fishing is prosecuted and the
existence of undisturbed breeding-oysters in the deeper waters, the reefs are
not readily exhausted, notwithstanding the tens of millions of mollusks
annually removed therefrom.
The fisheries are at their height from June to September, when nearly
every person on the coast is interested in some capacity, if not in fishing, at
least in furnishing supplies, cleaning shells, buying pearls, etc. In April and
May the water on the deep banks is so cold that the fishermen confine their
efforts to the more shallow areas. During the winter months, the cold
weather and the northwesterly gales interfere with the work, except such as
is prosecuted in the smaller bays and inlets.

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The pearling operations are financed mostly by Indian bunnias, or
traders, principally from Bombay, who furnish capital for equipment,
supplies of food, etc., and who purchase the pearls in gross lots. These men
bear very hard on the fishermen, furnishing the supplies and buying the
pearls almost at their own prices; and the poor divers who explore the
depths and secure the pearls derive from their exertions little more than the
crudest necessaries of life, and are usually in debt to the traders.
The actual fishing operations are carried on mainly by the maritime tribes
of Hasa and Oman, including those on the Pirate Coast. The inhabitants of
the Bahrein Islands and the adjacent shores have been devoted to pearling
from time immemorial; but the Wahabis of the Pirate Coast—the
Ichthyophagi of Ptolemy’s time—have more recently, under the persuasive
influence of British gunboats and magazine-rifles, substituted pearling for
their two-century inherited life of fanatical piracy. Referring to these people
in his quaint sketches of Persia eighty years ago, Sir John Malcolm wrote:
“Their occupation is piracy, and their delight murder, and to make it worse
they give you the most pious reasons for every villainy they commit. They
abide by the letter of the sacred volume, rejecting all commentaries and
traditions. If you are their captive and offer all to save your life, they say,
“No! It is written in the Koran that it is not lawful to plunder the living; but
we are not prohibited from stripping the dead. So saying they knock you on
the head.”[101] Most of the Wahabi pearlers congregate in the mat-hut
settlements of Dobai, Abu Thubi, and Ras-el-Kheima, located at the mouths
of creeks which form fairly good harbors for the small boats. The Batina
coast also furnishes some pearl fishermen, these coming principally from
Fujaira, Shenas, Sohar, Suaik, and Sib.
The headquarters for the pearling fleet are at Bahrein Island, the largest
of the insular group bearing the same name, the islets of Moharrek, Sitrah,
and Nissan completing the group. This is the early home of Chaldean
civilization, and one of the traditional sources of the Phenicians, and
whence came that fish-god who—according to the Babylonian myth—bore
the ark over the deluge. This island, the center of the greatest pearl fishery
in the world, is half way down on the southern side of the Persian Gulf, and
twenty miles from the mainland of “Araby the blest.” It is about twenty-
eight miles in length, and ten in width at the widest part. The population
approximates 60,000, all Moslems, except about 100 Banyan traders from
Sindh, India. The northern half of the island is described as of great beauty,

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being a garden of pomegranate, lemon, citron, and quince-trees, and
especially the magnificent date-palms, with numerous springs furnishing an
abundance of excellent fresh water. The principal settlement, Manama, with
about 10,000 inhabitants, is poorly built, the houses consisting mostly of
huts of mats and palm leaves; yet it presents a better appearance than any
other settlement along this coast.
The one great industry, and the center of all interest throughout this
region, is the pearl fishery. The present conditions are precisely as Palgrave
wrote in 1863: “It is from the sea, not from the land, that the natives subsist;
and it is also mainly on the sea that they dwell, passing amid its waters the
one half of the year in search of pearls, the other half in fishery or trade.
Hence their real homes are the countless boats which stud the placid pool,
or stand drawn up in long black lines on the shore, while little care is taken
to ornament their land houses, the abodes of their wives and children at
most, and the unsightly strong boxes of their treasures. ‘We are all, from the
highest to the lowest, slaves of one master—Pearl,’ said Mohammed bin
Thanee to me one evening; nor was the expression out of place. All thought,
all conversation, all employment, turns on that one subject; everything else
is merely by-game, and below even secondary consideration.”[102]

ARAB PEARL-DIVERS AT WORK IN THE PERSIAN
GULF

According to recent returns, the Persian Gulf fisheries employ about
3500 boats,[103] large and small, of which 1200 of the best are owned at

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Bahrein, 700 on the coast of El Hassa from El Katar to Kuweit, and the
remaining 1600 are from various parts of the gulf, and especially from the
Pirate Coast east of El Katar. They measure from one to fifty tons. The
smaller ones, with three to fifteen men each, work near the shores; the
larger, carrying fifteen to thirty men, fish over the whole gulf, remaining out
for weeks at a time. These craft are very picturesque with their artistic rigs
and spoon-shaped sails, and when the fishery is at its height the scene is one
of rare interest. The boats from Bahrein are of excellent construction made
by native workmen using local materials, with home-woven sailcloth and
rigging of twisted date-fiber. Each of the larger ones usually evidences a
lingering trace of Semitic influence in its kubait, or figurehead, covered
with skin of the sheep or goat sacrificed in the launching ceremonies.[104]
The boats from El Hassa and the Pirate Coast are usually smaller and less
substantial than those from Bahrein, the fishermen from the latter place far
surpassing those of the mainland in civilization and industrial wealth.
The fleet is manned by approximately 35,000 fishermen. In addition to
the nakhoda, or captain, who is often the owner of the boat, the crew
consists of ghoas or divers, who are mainly Arabs and Sedees, and sebs, or
rope-tenders, who are usually Bedouins or Persians and attend the divers
and perform other duties. Many Hindus from India, and flat-nosed, sable-
hued Negroes from the east coast of Africa find employment here. On each
of the larger boats is a general utility man, known as el musully, literally the
“prayer-man,” who, in addition to various other duties, relieves those sebs
who stop to pray.
Among the fishermen are all types and classes to be met with in this part
of the world, with the usual contingent of the lame, the halt, and the blind.
There are a number of fishermen who have been maimed and mutilated by
shark bites. A surprisingly large number of men who have become totally
blind engage in diving, and they usually do fairly well where the oysters are
abundant on the reefs. And one or two unfortunate divers are reported who
continue the work even though handicapped by the loss both of a leg and of
eyesight, this interfering less with their diving than with their movements
on land.
The fishery in this region owes absolutely nothing to modern civilization
in the method of securing the pearls from the depth of the sea; it is carried
on to-day practically as it was six hundred years ago, and probably has been

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without important variation for two thousand years. Aside from a loin-cloth,
the diver is devoid of clothing except that rarely, early in the season when
polypi abound, he is enveloped in a cotton overall as a protection. Over
each finger and thumb he wears a shield or stall (khubaat, or finger-hat),
about two inches long, made of flexible leather, to protect the fingers from
the sharp shells and coral-growths. As each fisherman usually wears out at
least two sets of these shields each season, it will be seen that a very large
quantity of them is required to supply the entire fleet.
The divers use stones on which they descend feet foremost. Although this
is less spectacular than the method of diving practised by the natives of the
South Sea islands, it enables the fisherman to reach the bottom more
speedily and with far less effort. The diving-stones range in weight from
thirty to fifty pounds each, depending largely on the depth of water and the
weight of the fisherman. They are somewhat oval in shape, and have one
end perforated to admit a rope. Immediately above the attachment is formed
a loop, resembling a stirrup, to receive the diver’s foot. When prepared for
the day’s work, each stone is suspended by a stout rope over outriggers
projecting from the side of the boat, and by a slip-knot is temporarily held
four and a half or five feet below the surface of the water. A very stout diver
may have a stone affixed to his waist to overcome his greater buoyancy.
Usually two divers use one stone together and descend alternately. Each one
has an attendant in the boat who assists him in ascending, and looks after
the ropes, baskets of shells, etc.
In preparing for descent, the fisherman takes hold of the rope from which
the diving stone is suspended, puts one foot in the loop just above the stone
and places the other foot in the rim of a net basket, eighteen inches wide,
made of coir rope. When ready, he signals his attendant, inhales several
good breaths, closes his nostrils with a fitaam or nostril-clasp of flexible
horn attached to a cord around his neck, raises his body somewhat above
the surface to give force to the descent, releases the slip-knot retaining the
stone, and sinks rapidly to the bottom. Immediately disengaging his foot
from the stone, he throws himself in a stooping position on the ground and
collects as many oysters as possible during the fifty seconds or more in
which he is able to remain under water. When near his limit of endurance,
he hastily gives a signal jerk to the rope attached to the basket, and the
watchful attendant hauls him up as speedily as possible, the diver frequently
quickening the ascent by hand over hand movement up the rope. When near

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the surface, he lets go of the rope and with his arms close to his body pops
above the surface puffing and blowing. The contents of the net bag are
emptied into a large basket by the attendant, and the dead shells and other
refuse are separated from the live oysters and thrown back into the sea, the
diver having worked too rapidly at the bottom to discriminate closely as to
what he gathered.
In the meantime, the stone has been drawn up and suspended by the slip-
knot in its customary position and the diving partner is resting at the surface
preparatory to descending. Thus, diving alternately at intervals of five or six
minutes, each fisherman descends thirty or forty times in an ordinary day’s
work. The number of oysters gathered at each descent depends on such
conditions as their abundance, the depth and clearness of the water, etc. It
ranges from none to fifty or more, but ordinarily ten or twelve is a good
average. As the men commonly work on shares, the shells brought up by
each diver or by each pair of divers are kept separate.
The best type of Arab divers are very careful of themselves, drying the
body thoroughly with towels on coming out of the water, taking intervals of
rest during the day’s work; and even while in the water between dives they
may enjoy the luxury of a cheroot or pipe, or possibly a cigarette may pass
from mouth to mouth of several men.
When pursuing their work, the divers are abstemious. After devotions at
sunrise and a light breakfast of perhaps dates or rice and coffee, they begin
fishing. About noon they knock off for coffee, prayers, and an hour’s siesta,
and then resume work for several hours. When the day’s work is over and
they have faced Meccaward with the customary prayers, they rest and eat a
substantial meal, commonly of dates and fish roasted over a charcoal fire.
In equal depths the Arab fishermen remain under water longer than those
of India who resort to the Ceylon fishery, but this is partly counterbalanced
by the latter descending somewhat more frequently. When preparing for a
lengthy dive, the fisherman imbibes large quantities of air, opening his
mouth and inhaling large volumes.
The length of time a diver remains submerged in the average depth of
seven or eight fathoms rarely exceeds sixty seconds, although some may
remain seventy, eighty, and even ninety seconds on special occasion. A fully
substantiated instance is reported from Manaar of an Arab diver having
remained 109 seconds in seven fathoms of water. This occurred April 13,

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1887, and was witnessed and reported[105] by Captain James Donnan, the
inspector of the fishery. Wellsted reports[106] a diving contest in the Persian
Gulf in which only one man, of the hundreds who competed, remained
down 110 seconds; the depth, however, is not noted.
There are numerous reports of much longer stays than these; indeed, a
study of the published evidence bearing upon the subject furnishes
surprising results. Ribeiro wrote, in 1685, that a diver could remain below
while two credos were repeated: “Il s’y tient l’espace de deux credo.”[107] In
his interesting account of the Ceylon fishery, Percival stated that the usual
length of time for divers to remain under water “does not much exceed two
minutes, yet there are instances known of divers who could remain four or
even five minutes, which was the case with a Caffre boy the last year I
visited the fishery. The longest instance ever known was of a diver who
came from Anjango in 1797, and who absolutely remained under water full
six minutes.”[108] Le Beck says, that in 1797, he saw a diver from Karikal
remain down for the space of seven minutes.[109] The merchant traveler, Jean
Chardin, reported in 1711 that the divers remain up to seven and a half
minutes under water: “Les plongeurs qui pêchent les perles sont quelquefois
jusqu’à demi-quart-d’heure sous l’eau.”[110]
In 1667, the Royal Society of London addressed an inquiry on this
subject to Sir Philiberto Vernatti, the British Resident at Batavia in the East
Indies. Vernatti’s reply gave certain details regarding the Ceylon fishery, but
did not touch upon the length of diving because, as he stated, he could not
“meet with any one that can satisfy me, and being unsatisfied myself, I
cannot nor will obtrude anything upon you which may hereafter prove
fabulous; but shall still serve you with truth.”[111] Two years later, and
presumably after investigation, Vernatti reported: “The greatest length of
time that pearl-divers in these parts can continue under water is about a
quarter of an hour; and that by no other means than custom; for pearl-diving
lasts not above six weeks, and the divers stay a great while longer at the end
of the season than at the beginning.”[112]

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Photograph,
Underwood
&
Underwood,
N. Y.

HIS IMPERIAL
MAJESTY,
MOHAMMED
ALI, SHAH OF
PERSIA

Wearing the Kajar
crown

The anatomist Diemerbroeck relates[113] the case of a pearl diver who,
under his own observation, remained half an hour at a time under water
while pursuing his work; and this was seriously adopted without comment
by John Mason Goode in his “Study of Medicine.”[114] Ibn Batuta, “the
Doctor of Tangier,” wrote about 1336 that “some remain down an hour,
others two hours, others less.”[115] A still earlier writer, Jouchanan ibn
Masouiah,[116] in his book on stones, states that “the diver, when he dives,
places upon his nose a masfâsa lest water should enter into him, and
breathes through the fissure, and remains under water for half an hour.”
According to Sebaldus Rau[117] this masfâsa was an article resembling a
hood or cap, which the diver placed over his nose. It was made of some
impervious material and had a projection so long that it reached to the
surface of the water. The same writer believes that this object was alluded to
by Aristotle (“De part. animal.,” Lib. II, c. 16), where he likens the trunk of

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the elephant to the instrument used by certain divers for aiding their
respiration, so that they could remain longer in the water and draw in air
from above the surface.[118] And here we cease pursuit of further records,
lest our faith in recorded testimony be too severely tested.[119]
A superficial inspection of the above evidence, from the one or two hours
noted by Ibn Batuta about the year 1336, to the half an hour of
Diemerbroeck in 1672, the quarter of an hour of Vernatti in 1669, the seven
and one half minutes of Chardin in 1711, the six minutes of Percival in
1803, to the 110 seconds of the present time, seems to indicate very clearly
a gradual but somewhat remarkable decrease in the ability of the Asiatic
divers, and that the pearl fishermen of the present day are very different
creatures from their ancestors. And especially is this so when it is
considered that the above records are not isolated reports selected for the
particular purpose of showing a decrease in the length of diving; on the
contrary they are authoritative and representative publications of their
respective periods. We do not recall having seen in any report issued
previous to 1675, an intimation that the limit of time was less than ten
minutes.
However, a careful consideration of the subject leads to the belief that
there has been no serious decrease in the length of time that the Arab and
Indian divers remain under water, and that either the writers were
misinformed or that the individual cases reported were extremely
exceptional. Ibn Batuta’s instance of one to two hours could easily be
caused by a mistake in copying Arabic manuscript, or in the translation. The
case related by Diemerbroeck in which a pearl diver remained submerged
half an hour, is more perplexing, especially as the physician reports that this
was done under his own observation. The numerous reports of five or six
minutes may have been based on a very exceptional case.
These statements are viewed as highly incredible by men who have spent
scores of years at the fisheries. A man may remain submerged for several
minutes, but the conditions are vastly different from the activities of pearl-
gathering at a depth of ten fathoms, where the pressure of the water is
nearly thirty pounds to the square inch, and the slightest exercise is
fatiguing. Unless the time is taken by a watch, it is easy to overestimate the
stay; the seconds pass very slowly when one is waiting momentarily for the
appearance of the diver’s head above the water, and certainly to the nearly

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exhausted fisherman with straining chest and palpitating heart, the last few
seconds must seem extremely long indeed. An instance is noted in which an
Arab diver remained submerged seventy-one seconds, and on his
reappearance, naïvely inquired if he had not been down ten minutes. It
seems doubtful whether the 110 seconds herein noted has been greatly
exceeded, in recent years at least, by Arab or Indian divers, who do not
appear to equal the semi-amphibious natives of the South Sea islands in
their exploits.
One of the most curious features of the pearling industry is the manner in
which the fishermen secure supplies of drinking water. In the vicinity of
Bahrein, numerous fresh-water springs exist at the bottom of the gulf in
depths of two or three fathoms, and the fishermen dive into the depth of the
salt water down to where the fresh water is springing forth and there fill a
skin or other suitable receptacle which they bring to the surface. By running
a pipe down near the bottom in the vicinity of one of these springs, an
abundance of fresh water may be pumped into the boat.
Three species—or at least three varieties—of pearl-bearing oysters are
obtained in the Persian Gulf. These are known locally as mahar, sudaifee,
and zinni. Of these, the mahar or Lingah oyster, which corresponds to the
Ceylon pearl-oyster, yields the greatest quantity of pearls, and those of the
finest quality. It measures three or three and a half inches in diameter, and is
found in deeper water than the others. The sudaifee and the zinni, which are
larger, yield pearls in much smaller quantities than the mahar.
On large boats, which remain out for two or three weeks at a time, the
oysters are left on deck overnight, and the following morning they are
opened by means of a curved knife (miflaket), four or five inches in length.
The smaller boats working near shore convey the catch to the land for the
opening and searching for pearls.
The Persian Gulf pearls are commonly not so white as those from
Ceylon, but they are found of larger size, and it is believed in Asia that they
retain their luster for a greater length of time. Many of the Persian Gulf
pearls, especially those from sudaifee and zinni shells, have a distinctly
yellow color. Tavernier made a curious explanation of this. He stated:
As for the pearls tending to yellow, the color is due to the fact that the fishermen sell the oysters in
heaps, and the merchants awaiting sometimes up to 14 or 15 days till the shells open of themselves,
in order to extract the pearls, some of these oysters lose their water during this time, decay, and
become putrid, and the pearls become yellow by contact. This is so true that in all oysters which have

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retained their water, the pearls are always white. They are allowed to open of themselves, because if
they are opened by force, as we open our oysters in the shell, the pearls may be damaged and broken.
The oysters of the Manar Strait open of themselves, 5 or 6 days sooner than those of the Gulf of
Persia, because the heat is much greater at Manar, which is at the tenth degree of North latitude,
while the island of Bahrein is at about the twenty-seventh. And consequently among the pearls which
come from Manar there are few yellow ones found.[120]
Tavernier was more familiar with the pearls themselves than with the
methods of the fishery. The yellow color is not due to contact with the
putrefactive flesh, and is independent of the manner of opening. In fact, if
putrefaction caused the yellow color, this shade would be far more
prevalent in the Manaar or Ceylon pearls than in those from Bahrein, for
practically all of the Ceylon oysters are permitted to putrefy, whereas only a
portion of those in the Persian Gulf are opened in this manner. Furthermore,
notwithstanding that it is nearer the equator, the heat at Manaar during the
pearling season is not to be compared with that at Bahrein when the season
is at its height, for the Persian Gulf during July and August is notorious as
one of the hottest places on the globe.
While the great bulk of the pearls are either white or yellowish, these
fisheries yield a few pink, bluish, gray, and occasionally even black pearls.
These unusual colors are not especially prized. A curious and remarkably
detailed story has gone the rounds in which the qualities of Persian and
Ceylon pearls are compared, to the disparagement of the latter, and during
the last hundred years few accounts have been published of this fishery
without recording it. We notice it first in Morier’s “Journey through Persia
in 1808 and 1809,”[121] but possibly it antedated that report. The statement is
that the pearls of Ceylon peel off, while those of Persia are as “firm as the
rock on which they grow”; and though they lose in color and luster one per
cent. annually for fifty years, they still lose less than those of Ceylon, and at
the expiration of the fifty years they cease to diminish in appearance.
The pearl output in the Persian Gulf at the present time appears from the
official returns to exceed four million dollars annually at local valuation.
The exports in 1903 were reported at £827,447, and in 1904, £1,077,241. It
is generally understood that all of the pearls are not entered in the official
figures, and the valuations in the markets of Asia and Europe are greatly in
excess of these amounts. The profits of the fishery are divided among a
great number of persons. A large percentage goes to the shrewd bunnias
from India, who finance the fishery operations, and who, by all sorts of
tricks connected with advances of supplies, valuation of the catch, etc.,

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manage to make a very good thing out of the business. It is nothing unusual
for the valuation of a lot of pearls to double and even treble after leaving the
hands of the fishermen.
While many of the gulf pearls—and especially of the small seed-pearls—
go to Bagdad, the great bulk of them are sold to representatives of Hindu
and Arab merchants of Bombay for shipment to that city, which to the
Bahrein fisherman is the heart of the outside world. Few of the pearls go
directly into Arabia or Persia, as the certain sale in the larger Bombay
market is preferable to a sometimes higher but less regular price in other
markets. Indeed, pearls may usually be purchased at a less cost in India than
a stranger would be obliged to pay at Bahrein. The Bombay merchants
“sow the earth with Orient pearl,” dealing direct with London, Paris and
Berlin, and with the oriental jewelers. Most of the yellow pearls find
oriental purchasers, with whose dark complexions they harmonize better
than the silvery white ones. They are also more popular because of a belief
existing throughout the East that they are less likely to lose their luster with
the lapse of years.
The shell of the pearl-oysters is not used locally, but large quantities are
exported to Europe for manufacture. Although it is the smallest and
cheapest produced in the gulf, yet, owing to the enormous quantity taken
for their pearls, the shell of the mahar (Margaritifera vulgaris) constitutes
the bulk of the exports. Formerly most of the shipments were made from
the harbor of Lingah, hence it is known in the markets of Europe as “Lingah
shell.” But in the last three or four years, much of it has been transported to
Europe via Bander Abbas and Bushire. A German firm at Bahrein is
extensively employed in exporting this shell, and several Indian merchants
are also engaged in the trade. The total exports in 1906 amounted to 3262
tons, valued at $26,408 according to the port returns, but worth about
$135,000 in Europe. Very large quantities are received in London, and over
2500 tons have been offered at auction in a single year. This shell is very
small, averaging about three inches in diameter and about one and a half
ounces in weight. It is the cheapest of all mother-of-pearl. The best quality
sells in London for ten to twenty shillings per hundredweight, but the
ordinary grade is worth usually less than nine shillings, and sometimes as
low as three shillings per hundredweight. America formerly imported it, but
few lots have been received since the exploitation of the Mississippi shell
about fifteen years ago.

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The shell of the larger species of pearl-oysters in the Persian Gulf is
worth considerably more than the “Lingah shell,” selling in Europe for £12
to £60 per ton, yet manufacturers consider it as furnishing only poor
qualities of mother-of-pearl. Several hundred tons are exported annually. It
measures six or seven inches in diameter and is used principally in making
cheap grades of buttons.

Page 138

THE PEARL FISHERIES OF CEYLON
Errors, like straws, upon the surface flow;
He who would search for pearls must dive below.

Dryden, All for Love, Prologue.

Second in extent to those of Persia only, are the intermittent and
uncertain pearl fisheries of the Gulf of Manaar. This is an arm of the Indian
Ocean, from 65 to 150 miles in width, separating the island of Ceylon from
the southernmost part of India. The pearl-oyster banks—known locally as
paars—are situated off the northwest coast of Ceylon and also in the
vicinity of Tuticorin on the Madras coast of the mainland. The Ceylon
fisheries are under the control of the colonial government of the British
Empire, and those of the mainland are monopolized by the Madras
government. Notwithstanding the fact that they are outside of the three-mile
limit established as the bound of national jurisdiction, exclusive privileges
are exercised over these fisheries by the respective governments,[122] and
poaching vessels are liable to seizure and punishment.
Though possibly not so ancient as those of Persia, the Ceylon pearl
fisheries are of great antiquity. References to them occur in Cingalese
records dating from 550 B.C. Pliny, Ptolemy, Strabo, and other ancient
writers speak of their importance.
The “Periplus of the Erythræan”—written about the end of the second
century A.D.—refers to these fisheries, and states that, owing to the dangers
involved, it was customary to employ convicts therein. In the days of the
“Arabian Nights,” under the name “Serendib,” this was the scene of the
pearling adventures of Sindbad the Sailor, and the reputation of the valuable
pearl resources is reflected in those wonderful tales.
The first extensive description we have of the Gulf of Manaar fisheries
was given by the Venetian traveler, Marco Polo, who visited the region
about 1294. He wrote:
The pearl fishers take their vessels, great and small, and proceed into the gulf where they stop from
the beginning of April till the middle of May. They go first to a place called Bettelar, and then go 60
miles into the Gulf. Here they cast anchor and shift from their large vessels into small boats. You
must know that the many merchants who go divide into various companies, and each of these must
engage a number of men on wages, hiring them for April and half of May. Of all the produce they

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have first to pay the king, as his royalty, the tenth part. And they must also pay those men who charm
the great fishes to prevent them from injuring the divers whilst engaged in seeking pearls under
water, one-twentieth of all that they take. These fish-charmers are termined Abraiaman; and their
charm holds good for that day only, for at night they dissolve the charm so that the fishes can work
mischief at their will. These Abraiaman know also how to charm beasts and birds and every living
thing. When the men have got into the small boats they jump into the water and dive to the bottom,
which may be at a depth of from 4 to 12 fathoms, and there they remain as long as they are able. And
there they find the shells that contain the pearls, and those they put into a net bag tied round the
waist, and mount up to the surface with them, and then dive anew. When they can’t hold their breath
any longer they come up again, and after a little down they go once more, and so they go on all day.
These shells are in fashion like oysters or sea-hoods. And in these shells are found pearls, great and
small, of every kind, sticking in the flesh of the shell-fish. In this manner pearls are fished in great
quantities, for thence in fact come the pearls which are spread all over the world. And I can tell you
the King of that State hath a very great receipt and treasure from his dues upon those pearls.[123]
That quaint old missionary bishop, Friar Jordanus, in his “Mirabilia
Descripta, or the Wonders of the East” (circa 1330), reports that “more than
8000 boats” were sometimes employed for three months continually in
these fisheries, which were then prosecuted under the jurisdiction of the
Cingalese kings of Kandy, and that the quantity of pearls taken was
“astounding and almost incredible.”[124]

THE “PRINCE OF
PEARLS”: THE LATE
RANA OF DHOLPUR IN
HIS PEARL REGALIA

This number of boats seems entirely too large, especially in view of the
fact that Jordanus secured his information at second hand; but it leaves the
impression that the fisheries of that period were of great importance.

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When the Portuguese, attracted by the wealth of its resources, obtained
control of this region about 1510, they exacted from the local rulers an
annual tribute in pearls and spices. Later they conducted the fisheries on
their own account, permitting the native fishermen to retain one fourth of
the catch as compensation for their work, and dividing the remainder into
three equal portions, for the king, the church, and the soldiers, respectively.
Linschoten, who visited India about 1590, leaves this interesting account
of the fishery at that time:
“There are also other fishings for pearle, as between the Iland of Seylon, and the Cape de
Comoriin, where great numbers are yearlie found, for that the King of Portingale hath a captaine
there with soldiers that looketh unto it; they have yearlie at the least above 3 or 4 thousand duckers
[divers], yt live onlie by fishing for pearles, and so maintaine themselves.” He describes the methods
of fishing, which appear to be similar to those of the present time, and adds: “When they have made
an end of the day’s fishing, all the fishers with the captaine, soldiers, laborers and watchmen for the
king, goe together, and taking all the pearls [pearl-oysters] that are caught that day they divide them
into certaine heaps, that is, one part for the king, another part for the captaine and soldiers, the third
part for the Jesuits, because they have their Cloyster in that place, and brought the countrie first into
the Christian faith, and the last part for the Fishers, which is done with Justice and Equalitie. This
fishing is done in the Summer tyme, and there passeth not any yeare but that divers Fishers are
drowned by the Cape de Comoriin (which is called the King’s fishing) and manie devoured by fishes,
so that when the fishing is done there is great and pitiful noyse and cry of women and children heard.
Yet the next yeare they must do the same work againe, for that they have no other means to live, as
also for that they are partlie compelled thereunto by the Portingales, but most part because of the
gaine.”[125]
The best description we have seen of the Ceylon fisheries at the time of
the Portuguese occupation, is that of Caesar Frederick, a Venetian trader,
who referred to the period from 1563 to 1581. Frederick reported, according
to Hickocke’s translation in the Hakluyt edition:
The sea that lieth between the coast which descendeth from Cao Comori, to the lowe land of
Chilao, and from Island Zeilan, they call the fishing of Pearles, which fishing they make every yeare,
beginning in March or April, and it lasteth fiftie dayes, but they doe not fishe every yeere in one
place, but one yeere in one place, and another yeere in another place of the same sea. When the time
of this fishing draweth neere, they send very good Divers, that goe to discover where the greatest
heapes of Oisters bee under water, and right agaynst that place where greatest store of Oisters bee,
there they make or plant a village with houses and a Bazaro, which standeth as long as the fishing
time lasteth, and it is furnished with all things necessarie, and nowe and then it is neere unto places
that are inhabited, and other times farre off, according to the place where they fishe. The fishermen
are all Christians of the countrey, and who so will may goe to fishing, paying a certain dutie to the
king of Portugall, and to the Churches of the Friers of Saint Paule, which are in that coast. All the
while that they are fishing, there are three or foure Fustes armed to defend the Fishermen from
Rovers. It was my chance to bee there one time in my passage, and I saw the order that they used in
fishing, which is this. There are three or foure Barkes that make consort together, which are like to
our litle Pilot boates, and a little lesse, there goe seven or eight men in a boate: and I have seene in a
morning a great number of them goe out, and anker in fifteene or eighteene fadome of water, which
is the ordinarie depth of all that coast. When they are at anker, they cast a rope into the sea, and at the

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end of the rope, they make fast a great stone, and then there is readie a man that hath his nose and his
eares well stopped, and annointed with oyle, and a basket about his necke, or under his left arme,
then he goeth downe by the rope to the bottome of the Sea, and as fast as he can hee filleth the
basket, and when it is full, he shaketh the rope, and his fellows that are in the Barke hale him up with
the basket: and in such wise they go one by one untill they have laden their barke with oysters, and at
evening they come to the village, and then every company maketh their mountaine or heape of
oysters one distant from another, in such wise that you shall see a great long rowe of mountaines or
heapes of oysters, and they are not touched until such time as the fishing bee ended, and at the ende
of the fishing every companie sitteth round about their mountaine or heape of oysters, and fall to
opening of them, which they may easilie doe because they bee dead, drie and brittle: and if every
oyster had pearles in them, it would be a very good purchase, but there are very many that have no
pearles in them: when the fishing is ended, then they see whether it bee a good gathering or a badde:
there are certaine expert in the pearles whom they call Chitini, which set and make the price of
pearles according to their carracts [carats or weight], beautie, and goodnesse, making foure sorts of
them. The first sort bee the round pearles, and they bee called Aia of Portugale, because the
Portugales doe buy them. The second sorte which are not round, are called Aia of Bengala. The third
sort which are not so good as the second, they call Aia of Canara, that is to say, the kingdome of
Bezeneger. The fourth and last sort, which are the least and worst sort, are called Aia of Cambaia.
Thus the price being set, there are merchants of every countrey which are readie with their money in
their handes, so that in a fewe dayes all is brought up at the prises set according to the goodnesse and
caracts of the pearles.[126]
A remarkable instance of the immutability of custom in the Orient is
found in the fact that, except in a few minor particulars, Frederick’s
account, written more than three centuries ago, could serve as a description
of the methods of the fisheries in recent years. The industry was then very
extensive, as appears from an account shortly afterward (about 1608) by
Pedro Teixeira, who reported[127] that from 400 to 500 boats were employed,
and from 50,000 to 60,000 persons resorted to the fishery.
In 1658, possession of Ceylon and India passed from the Portuguese to
the Dutch, who for a time continued the pearl fisheries after the manner
practised by their predecessors; but owing to contentions as to the details of
management, they soon resorted to leasing them each year to the highest
bidder, or to several bidders, for a definite money payment. The successful
bidders prosecuted the industry in the same manner as the government had
previously done, employing the same native fishermen and compensating
them with one fourth of the oysters secured. Under the Dutch rule the
fisheries were very unprofitable, and particularly so during the last seventy
years of their authority. There was practically no fishing from 1732 to 1746,
and there was also a suspension—but not entirely from lack of oysters or of
pearls—from 1768 until the territory passed into the control of the British in
1796.

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The colonial government of the British Empire continued the Dutch
policy of leasing, only restricting the limits of territory and season for
fishing. Many objections were found to this method. It was difficult to
regulate the business properly, and there were no reliable means of
determining its proceeds and conditions. At length in 1835, the government
began to operate the fishery on its own account, as the Portuguese had done
two hundred years before, allowing the fishermen one fourth of the oysters
taken by them and selling the remaining three fourths for the benefit of the
treasury. In this way the full value of the resources was realized without
mystery, deception, or concealment, and the plan worked satisfactorily for
all concerned.
Owing, presumably, to the long period in which they had lain
undisturbed, the Ceylon oyster reefs were in excellent condition at the
beginning of British rule. In 1796 the government derived a revenue of
Rs.1,100,000 therefrom, and in 1797 the revenue was Rs.1,400,000; these
two years were by far the most productive during the first century of British
occupation.
Several very interesting reports on the industry were prepared about that
time. Especially to be noted among these were the accounts by Henry J.
LeBeck in 1798;[128] by Robert Percival in 1803;[129] and by James Cordiner
in 1807,[130] to which reference is made for detailed accounts of the fisheries
of that period.
The Ceylon fishery was prosecuted about every other year from 1799 to
1809, and the annual returns ranged from £15,022 in 1801 to £84,257 in
1808. From 1810 to 1813, inclusive, there was a blank so far as receipts
were concerned. In 1814 the fishery was very good, bringing in a revenue
of £105,187. With the exception of very slight returns in 1815, 1816, and
1820, no oysters were then obtained until 1828. Excepting 1832 and 1834,
the industry was prosecuted each year from 1828 to 1837, the revenue to
the government averaging about £30,000 annually. Then came a long blank
of seventeen years, for there was no fishing from 1838 to 1854, and
likewise from 1864 to 1873. Indeed, so depleted had the beds throughout
the Gulf of Manaar become in 1866, that serious consideration was given to
the possibilities of securing seed oysters from the Persian Gulf for
restocking the reefs; but fortunately this was rendered unnecessary by the

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discovery soon afterward of a few oysters on several reefs on both the
Ceylon and the Malabar coasts.
From 1855 to 1863, and also from 1874 to 1881, the returns were only
ordinary, the highest being £51,017 in 1863, and £59,868 in 1881,—the best
year since 1814; and during these two periods fishing was entirely omitted
in nearly one half the seasons. There were five lean years from 1882 to
1886, and the 1887 fishery was only fair, with a yield of £39,609. But the
returns for 1888 were large, amounting to £80,424; and those for 1891 were
even greater, being £96,370, representing a yield of 44,311,441 oysters. No
oysters were caught from 1892 to 1902, inclusive. In 1903, the fishery was
profitable, yielding 41,180,137 oysters, and the share of the government
amounted to £55,303; and in 1904 the yield was almost the same, being
41,039,085 oysters and a revenue of £71,050 to the government.
In 1905 occurred the greatest fishery in the modern history of Ceylon.
The season extended from February 20 until April 21, giving forty-seven
working days, exclusive of Sundays and five days of bad weather, the
longest period in over half a century.[131] The boats employed numbered 318,
with 4991 divers and 4894 attendant manduks. The yield of oysters
exceeded all records, amounting to 81,580,716 in number, or nearly twice
as many as in any previous year within the period of British occupation.
The prices at which these sold ranged from Rs.24 to Rs.124 per thousand,
with an average of Rs.48.89 for the entire season. The government received
Rs.2,510,727 as its share of the revenue, which was twice as much as in any
previous year since the British have been in control, and doubtless the
largest received by any government in the history of the industry. The
oysters falling to the share of the divers must have sold for at least
Rs.1,255,363 (since 1881 the divers have received one third of the catch as
their compensation, instead of one fourth). The profits of the merchants,
who purchased and opened the government oysters as well as those of the
divers, doubtless amounted to fully as much, making a total of
Rs.5,021,453, or nearly $2,000,000 as a low estimate of the local value of
the pearls secured at Ceylon in 1905.
Owing to the great success in 1905, an enormous number of persons
flocked to the camp at the beginning of the season in 1906. Employment
was given to 473 boats, the largest number on record, and over 8600 divers
were engaged, with an equal number of attendants. Owing to unfavorable

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weather and the great quantity of oysters removed in 1905, the catch in
1906 was less than in that record year, amounting to 67,150,641 in number,
from the sale of which Rs.1,376,746 was realized. The prices covered a
wide range. For the large Cheval oysters, even Rs.276, Rs.291, and Rs.309
per 1000 were received. The inferior, stunted oysters from the Muttuvaratu
paar ranged from Rs.20 to Rs.41 per 1000, and even at these prices many
buyers sustained losses. On the other hand considerable money was made
by the buyers of those from Cheval, in which some very large and beautiful
pearls were found.
The results of the 1907 fishery were surprisingly good, excellent prices
being obtained. The proceeds from the sale of two thirds of the 21,000,000
oysters amounted to Rs.1,040,000, or just under $350,000. The fishery
lasted thirty-six working days. Only 173 boats were used, as it was
considered that a fleet of this size is fully as large as can be employed
advantageously to the greatest satisfaction of all interested.
According to the compilations of the colonial secretary’s office, the gross
revenue to the government from 1796 to 1907, inclusive, amounted to
£2,098,830. If to this be added the fishermen’s share and the merchants’
compensation, we have a total of about £4,200,000 or $21,000,000 as the
local value of the pearls produced in Ceylon during the period of British
occupation. The value of these in the markets of Asia and Europe was
undoubtedly very much greater.
In many respects the Ceylon pearl fisheries are the most interesting in the
world. Owing to their ready accessibility and thorough organization, they
are far better known than any others. Reliable data exist as to the number of
oysters taken during each season since 1854, and it is possible to estimate
roughly the pearls obtained therefrom. Throughout the 112 years of British
occupation, and previously to some extent under the successive rule of the
Cingalese kings, of the Portuguese, and of the Dutch, for centuries, the reefs
were annually examined by official inspectors, and fishing was permitted
only in those years when they appeared in satisfactory condition.
A noticeable feature of these fisheries is their uncertainty, a prosperous
season being followed by an absence of fishing sometimes extending over
ten years or more. This is not of recent development. Over eight hundred
years ago a total cessation of yield for a considerable period was
recorded[132] by Albyrouni, who served under Mahmud of Ghazni. He stated

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that, in the eleventh century, the oysters which formerly existed in the Gulf
of Serendib (Ceylon) disappeared simultaneously with the appearance of a
fishery at Sofala in the country of the Zends, where previously the existence
of pearls had been unknown; hence it was conjectured that the pearl-oysters
of Serendib had migrated to Sofala.
In the 249 years since Ceylon passed from the dominion of the
Portuguese in 1658, there have been only sixty-nine years in which the
pearl fisheries were prosecuted. During the last century there were only
thirty-six regularly authorized fisheries. Enormous quantities of oysters
have appeared on the reefs, giving rise to hopes of great results, only to end
in disappointment, owing to their complete disappearance. In the fall of
1887, for instance, examination of one of the reefs revealed an enormous
quantity of oysters, covering an area five miles in length by one and a half
miles in width, with “600 to 700 oysters to the square yard” in places. It
was estimated by the inspection officials that there were 164,000,000
oysters, which exceeded the total number taken in the preceding sixty years,
and which should have yielded several million dollars’ worth of pearls in
the following season, according to the usual returns. But some months later
not an oyster was to be found on this large reef, the great host presumably
having been destroyed by action of the sea. Numerous reasons are assigned
for the failure of promising reefs. Those most frequently heard are that the
currents sweep the oysters away, that they are devoured by predaceous
enemies, that they are covered by the shifting bottom, or that they
voluntarily move to new grounds.
The oysters are found in well-known and permanently located banks or
paars in the upper end of the Gulf of Manaar, in the wide shallow plateau
off the northwest end of the island and directly south of Adams Bridge. The
hard calcrete bottom is formed mostly of sand combined with organic
remains in a compact mass and with more or less coral and shell deposits.
The density of the water, as determined by Professor Herdman (to whose
important and valuable report[133] we are indebted for much information), is
fairly constant at 1.023, and the temperature has a normal range of from 82°
to 86° F. during the greater part of the year. The charts and records refer to
about twenty paars, but most of these have never yielded extensively, either
to the English or to the Dutch. In the aggregate, they cover an area fifty
miles in length and twenty miles in width. Most of them are from five to
twenty miles from the shore, and at a depth of five to ten fathoms. The

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principal paars are Cheval, Madaragam, Periya, Muttuvaratu, Karativu,
Vankalai, Chilaw, and Condatchy. Only three have afforded profitable
fisheries in recent years, i. e.: Cheval, Madaragam and Muttuvaratu.
The other paars are of practically no economic value at the present time.
They become populated with tens of millions of oysters, which
mysteriously disappear before they are old enough for gathering. Especially
is this true of the Periya paar, which is about fifteen miles from the shore,
and runs eleven miles north and south, varying from one to two miles in
width. Frequently this is found covered with young oysters, which almost
invariably disappear before the next inspection, owing, probably, to their
being covered by the shifting bottom caused by the southwest monsoon.
The natives call this the “Mother paar,” under the impression that these
oysters migrate to the other paars.
The Ceylon government has given very careful attention to all matters
affecting the prosperity of the pearl resources. It has maintained a “Pearl
Fishery Establishment,” consisting of a superintendent, an inspector and
numerous divers, attendants, and sailors. The inspector examines the paars,
determines when and to what extent they should be fished, and directs the
operations. The superintendent conducts the work on shore, divides and
sells the oysters, etc. The expense of this establishment has approximated
$40,000 per annum when there has been a fishery, and about $22,500
without fishery expenses.
It has been decided by naturalists that Ceylon oysters less than four years
old produce very few marketable pearls; in the fifth, and again in the sixth
year the value of the yield doubles, and in the seventh it is supposed to
increase fourfold. Beyond that age there appears to be little increase, and
there is the risk of the oysters dying, and of the pearls deteriorating or
becoming lost. Eight years seems to be the natural limit of life. While
experience has shown that the most profitable period for taking the pearl-
oysters is when they are from five to seven years old, the mollusks are
liable to disappear, especially after the fifth year, and the danger of waiting
too long is as great as that of beginning too early. The fishing on any
particular bank is determined by various circumstances and conditions, and
is permitted only after careful examination.
The different beds are inspected from time to time, and no fishing is
permitted until the condition of the pearl-oysters on the particular reef

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thrown open seems to warrant the most valuable returns. In the examination
of a bed apparently in suitable condition, several thousand oysters—usually
eight or ten thousand—are taken up and the pearls found therein are
examined and valued. If they average Rs.25 or Rs.30 per thousand oysters,
profitable results may be expected, provided there is a sufficient quantity of
oysters on the bed. This method of determining the fishery is very ancient.
Tavernier wrote, about 1650, “before they fish, they try whether it will turn
to any account by sending seven or eight boats to bring 1000 oysters each,
which they open, and if the oysters per 1000 yield five fanos or above, they
then know the fishing will turn to account.”[134] And much the same method
was described by Ribeiro in 1685.
When it has been decided to hold a fishery, public notice is given by
advertisement, stating which of the many paars or reefs will be open, and
the estimated quantity of oysters to be removed, the number of boats that
will be given employment, and the date for beginning the season and the
length of time it will probably last. This notice is usually given in December
preceding the fishery, and it is the signal for preparation by tens of
thousands of persons in this part of Asia, and especially on the Madras and
the Malabar coasts of India, and on the coast of Arabia. The fishermen, the
merchants, and the multitude of artisans, mechanics, and laborers who
contribute to the industry, set their homes and business in order so that they
may attend. We give the notice issued in 1907, both in Cingalese and in
English.[135]

THE LATE MAHARAJAH
OF PATIALA

Page 148

Early in February the area to be gleaned is again examined, the limits of
the oysters are charted and buoyed off, the number that may be obtained is
estimated as accurately as possible, and valuation samples are collected.
Several thousand oysters are taken up, the pearls are removed, examined,
and valued by uninterested experts, and the results are published, so that
prospective buyers may have a reliable idea as to their value. Otherwise this
would not be possible until the merchants had washed some of their own
purchases, which ordinarily would not be for a week or ten days after the
opening of the season.
The fishery usually begins late in February or early in March, as the sea
is then relatively calm, the currents least perceptible, and there is less
danger of storms. It is prosecuted from a temporary settlement or camp on
the sandy shore at a place conveniently near the reefs. The important
fisheries of the five years ending in 1907, were centered at the improvised
settlement known as Marichchikadde. Although prosecuted from the coast
of Ceylon, relatively few Cingalese attend compared with the large numbers
who assemble from India, Arabia, and elsewhere.
A week or two before the opening of the season, the boats begin to arrive,
sometimes fifty or more in a single day, laden with men, women and
children, and in many cases with the materials for their huts. In a short time
the erstwhile desolate beach becomes populated with thousands of persons
from all over the Indian littoral, and there is the noisy traffic of congregated
humanity, and a confusion of tongues where before only the sound of the
ocean waves was heard. Beside the eight or ten thousand fishermen, most of
whom are Moormen, Tamils, and Arabs, there are pearl merchants—mainly
Chetties and Moormen, boat repairers and other mechanics, provision
dealers, priests, pawnbrokers, government officials, koddu-counters, clerks,
boat guards, a police force of 200 officials, coolies, domestic servants, with
numbers of women and children. And for the entertainment of these, and to
obtain a share of the wealth from the sea, there are jugglers, fakirs,
gamblers, beggars, female dancers, loose characters, with every allurement
that appeals to the sons of Brahma, Buddha or Mohammed. Natives from
the seaport towns of India are there in thousands; the slender-limbed and
delicate-featured Cingalese with their scant attire and unique head-dress;
energetic Arabs from the Persian Gulf; burly Moormen, sturdy Kandyans,
outcast Veddahs, Chinese, Jews, Portuguese, Dutch, half-castes, the scum of

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the East and the riffraff of the Asiatic littoral, the whole making up a
temporary city of forty thousand or more inhabitants.[136]

Page 150

THE
Ceylon Company of Pearl Fishers,
LIMITED.

NOTICE

Is hereby given that a Pearl Fishery will take place at Marichchukkaddi,
in the Island of Ceylon, on or about February 20, 1907.
The Banks to be fished are—
The Karativu, Dutch Moderagam and Alanturai Pars, estimated to
contain 21,000,000 oysters, sufficient to employ 100 boats for twenty-one
days with average loads of 10,000 each per day.
The Northwest and Mid-West Cheval, estimated to contain 2,000,000
oysters, sufficient to employ 100 boats for two days with average loads of
10,000 oysters.
The Muttuvaratu Par, estimated to contain 8,000,000 oysters, sufficient
to employ 100 boats for eight days with average loads as before stated:
each boat being fully manned with divers.
2. It is notified that fishing will begin on the first favourable day after
February 19. Conditions governing the employment of divers will be
issued separately.
3. Marichchukkaddi is on the mainland, eight miles by sea south of
Sillavaturai, and supplies of good water and provisions can be obtained
there.
4. The Fishery will be conducted on account of the Ceylon Company of
Pearl Fishers, Ltd., and the oysters put up to sale in such lots as may be
deemed expedient.

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A populous town springs up with well-planned and lighted streets and
vast numbers of temporary abodes of all sorts, according to the means and
the caste of the occupants, some of them just large enough for two or three
persons to creep into. Although made mostly of poles, mats, cajans or
plaited fronds of the cocoanut tree, they furnish ample shelter for the
locality and season, the uncertainty of the fishery from year to year being
sufficient argument against expensive and substantial buildings. Numerous
wells and cisterns yield water for the use of all. Sanitary measures are
strictly enforced, with a liberal use of disinfectants. At a considerable
distance southward from the settlement are constructed the private toddis,
or inclosures, for decomposing the oysters and washing the pearls
therefrom. Nearer the camp or settlement itself are the police court, the jail,
the bank, the post and telegraph offices, the auction room, the hospital and
the cemetery—all to endure through a strenuous six weeks of toil and labor,
of money-getting and gambling, and then the inhabitants “fold their tents
like the Arabs, and silently steal away,” leaving the debris to the shore-birds
and the jackals.
The fishing fleet consists of several hundred boats[137] of various rigs and
sizes. These are interesting on account of their picturesque appearance and
also their remarkable diversity of types in hull and rigging: there is the
broad and roomy Jaffna dhoney, commonly painted black; the lugger-like
Paumben boat; the very narrow and speedy canoes,—not unlike the single

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masted bugeyes of the Chesapeake region—from Kilakarai and neighboring
villages, most noticeable owing to their great number and their bright colors
—red, green, or yellow; the clumsy looking, single masted Tuticorin
lighters, sharp sterned and copper bottomed, the largest boats in the fleet,
ranging in capacity from twenty to forty tons each; and, most singular of all,
the three masted great canoes from Adirampatnam and Muttupat on the
Tanjore coast, pale blue in color and with curved prow. In addition to these
standard types, added novelty is imparted by a few boats of design so odd
and fantastic as would be conceived only by the mind of an oriental builder.
Reaching the camp at the beginning of the season, these boats are
examined by the officials as to condition and equipment and, if found
satisfactory, are registered and numbered. When the quantity of oysters to
be removed is small, many more boats may arrive than is necessary or than
can find profitable employment. Formerly when this occurred a lottery was
held to determine those to be employed. More recently the officials have
endeavored to engage all boats passing the inspection, although to do so
might necessitate arranging the fleet into two divisions, each fishing on
alternate days. In 1874, the boats were arranged in three divisions, the red,
blue and green, with fifty boats in each; in 1879, and again in 1881, there
were two divisions, the red and the blue; and likewise in 1880, in 1903 and
in 1906 there were two, the red and the white divisions. Of the 318 boats
employed in the 1905 fishery, 143 were from Kilakarai, seventy-four from
Jaffna, thirty-five from Tuticorin, thirty-four from Paumben, nine from
Manaar, six from Negapatam, five from Colombo, four each from Tondi
and Kayalpatam, and one each from Devipatam, Adrapatam, Ammopatam,
and Koddaipatam.
The number of persons on each boat ranges from about twelve to sixty-
five, with an average for the entire fleet of about thirty-five men per boat.
This includes the sammatti, or master, who represents the owner; the tindal,
or pilot; the todai, or water-bailer, who is very necessary on these leaky
craft, and who also takes charge of the food and drinking water; at times a
government inspector or “boat guard”; and from five to thirty divers, with
an equal number of manducks, or attendants.[138] The sammattis, tindals, and
todais are nearly all from the coast of southern India. The “boat guards” or
inspectors are natives of Ceylon, and are employed by the government to
prevent the fishermen from opening the oysters. Most of the manducks are
from the Indian coast.

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Of the 4991 divers employed in 1905, 2649 were Moormen or Lubbais
from Kilakarai, Tondi, etc., on the Madura coast; 923 were Arabs; 424 were
Erukkalampiddi Moormen from Ceylon, and the remaining 995 were
Tamils from Tuticorin, Rameswaram and elsewhere on the Madras coast,
Malayalans from the Malabar coast, with small numbers from other
localities on the Asiatic coasts.
Among the 8600 divers in 1906, were 4090 Arabs, the largest number of
those people employed in recent years. In 1905 there were only 923 Arab
divers, in 1904 only 238, and previously the number was much less. Some
have worked on the Ceylon coast since 1887, but most of them are newly
arrived from Bahrein and Kuweit, where they received their training as
pearl-divers. They are very energetic and skilful fishermen, far surpassing
the Tamils, coming early in the season and staying late, and working on
many days when rough seas deter the Indian divers from venturing out.
The Erukkalampiddi divers of Ceylon are by no means so energetic or
steady in work as the Arabs, and commonly desert the fishery before the
close. The Tamil divers belong to the Parawa and Kadeiyar castes.
The season in the Ceylon fishery is very short, only about six or eight
weeks at the most; and the holidays and storms usually reduce the number
of actual working days to less than thirty. In no other pearl fishery of
importance is the season less than four months in length, and in most of
them it extends through more than half of the year. Owing to this restricted
time, there is greater activity in the Ceylon fishery compared with the value
of the output than in any other pearl fishery in the world.
Although the season is short, it is strenuous. Arising shortly after
midnight, the thousands of fishermen breakfast, perform their devotions and
prepare to get under way so as to reach the reefs about sunrise. There each
boat takes its position on the ground allotted for the day’s work, and which
has been marked in advance by buoys topped with flags; and shortly
afterward, on a signal from the guard vessel, the diving commences. This is
carried on in the same manner as already described for the Persian Gulf,
except that the Indian divers do not use nose-clips, only compressing the
nostrils with the fingers during the descent. Rarely do they descend to a
greater depth than ten fathoms.
The divers work in pairs, each pair using a single diving stone in
common, and descending alternately, precisely as in the Persian Gulf. It is

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remarkable what few changes have occurred in the methods of the fishery
in the last six centuries; the description[139] of Marco Polo, who visited the
region about 1294, and of writers somewhat more recent, indicating that, in
the main features, it was then conducted in the same manner as at the
present time.
An exception to the usual mode of diving is practised by the Malayalam
fishermen, who, in some seasons—as in 1903, for instance—attend in large
numbers from Travancore and northward on the Malabar coast. These men
are rather low in skill and physical endurance.[140] They dive head foremost
from a spring-board, and even with this assistance,—or possibly we should
say, handicapped by this method,—they find the average depth of eight
fathoms too great for them to work in with much comfort, rarely remaining
under water longer than forty-five seconds.
The number of oysters secured on each visit to the bottom ranges from
nothing to seventy-five or more, averaging between fifteen and fifty. This
depends not only on the ability of the fishermen, but also on the abundance
of oysters and the ease with which they may be collected. Sometimes they
are held together in loose bunches of five to ten in each, and a diver can
easily gather one hundred in the short length of time he remains submerged.
In other localities they may be somewhat firmly attached individually to the
bottom, so that some force is necessary to release them, thus reducing the
possible quantity. Ordinarily one dive clears a space of several square yards.

Unloading oysters from the vessels into the kottus, at
Marichchikadde, Ceylon

Page 155

The pearling fleet on the shore at Marichchikadde, Ceylon

Hindu workmen preparing to drill pearls, Marichchikadde,
Ceylon

Since 1904, a steamer has been employed each season by the government
for dredging oysters in connection with experiments in oyster-culture. The
officer in charge of this work concludes that “dredging is economically a
more sound method of fishing than is diving.”[141] This view is disputed by
the superintendent of the fishery, who points out that the average catch by
the steamer when dredging mature oysters only slightly exceeds that of an
ordinary diving boat, and the cost of maintenance and operation is vastly
greater.[142] A remarkable tribute to the skill of the nude divers, brought out
by this discussion, is that, during some days when they were at work, the
sea was too rough for dredging by the steamer, notwithstanding that she
was a typical Grimsby or North Sea trawler of 150 tons measurement, built
in 1896.[143]
A rough comparison of the Ceylon method of catching pearl-oysters with
that practised by the American oyster-growers may not be uninteresting. On

Page 156

a basis of 400 to the bushel, the total Ceylon catch of 81,580,716 pearl-
oysters in 1905 represents a trifle more than 200,000 bushels, or about the
quantity annually produced by each of the half dozen leading oyster-
growers of this country. Each one of these growers requires only about three
steamers, at a total cost, maybe, of $25,000, and manned by twenty-five
men; instead of one steamer at a cost of $25,000 and 318 diving boats
manned by 10,000 men, which was the equipment in Ceylon. To be sure,
the conditions under which the work is prosecuted are different—however,
not so entirely unlike as might be supposed—and the American season is
about six months long instead of the two months in Ceylon; but the
comparison is presented simply as a suggestion of the possibilities of
dredging on the Ceylon reefs.
Until 1885, one of the most novel features of the fishery was the
employment of shark-charmers or “binders of sharks” (kadal-kotti in the
Tamil language, hai-banda in Hindustani), whose presence was rendered
necessary by the superstition of the Indian divers. The fishermen placed
implicit reliance upon the alleged supernatural powers of these impostors,
resembling in some respects that reposed in the “medicine men” by the
American Indians, and would not dive without their supervision. It is
unknown at what period the influence of these semi-priests developed, but
at the time of Marco Polo’s visit about 1294, they were in the full bloom of
their authority, receiving one twentieth of the total catch of oysters,[144]
which amounted to a very considerable sum. It is probable that the number
of shark-charmers was then quite large, some writers more recently
referring to one for each boat. During the Portuguese occupation the
number was reduced to twelve, and at the beginning of the British
influence, it was further reduced to two.
Interesting descriptions have been given of the methods by which these
men exercised their alleged powers. In 1807, Cordiner stated:
One goes out regularly in the head pilot’s boat. The other performs certain ceremonies on shore.
He is stripped naked, and shut up in a room, where no person sees him from the period of the sailing
of the boats until their return. He has before him a brass basin full of water, containing one male and
one female fish made of silver. If any accident should happen from a shark at sea, it is believed that
one of these fishes is seen to bite the other. The divers likewise believe that, if the conjurer should be
dissatisfied, he has the power of making the sharks attack them, on which account he is sure of
receiving liberal presents from all quarters.[145]
Amusing stories are told of the shrewdness displayed by these fellows in
inventing explanations to redeem their credit when a fisherman became a

Page 157

victim of the sharks. These accounts are by men who evidently bore no
good-will toward the shark-charmers, and it would be of interest to hear
from the other side; but we have been unable to find any one who has
appeared in print in their defense.
The British government, in its policy of noninterference with the
superstitions or semi-religious customs of the natives, tolerated these
seeming impostors, owing, probably, in a measure, to the fact that the
superstitious belief in their necessity was favorable to the preservation of
the resources, since it restricted poaching on the reefs. However, the
government endeavored to prevent an extravagant misuse of the influence,
and restricted the compensation of the shark-charmers to one oyster per day
from each diver. Later, they were remunerated by the government, and were
not allowed, under any pretense whatever, to demand, exact, or receive
oysters or any other compensation from the boatmen, divers, or any other
persons. And, finally, in 1885, the shark-charmers were done away with
entirely, after having exacted their toll for upward of six centuries at least.
The dangers to which the Ceylon divers are exposed have been greatly
exaggerated, and especially the risks from sharks. Poets tell how “the
Ceylon pearler went all naked to the hungry shark,” and the struggle of the
diver has been a favorite theme with sensational writers. As a matter of fact,
the trouble from this source is very slight, and the occupation is less
dangerous than that of most of the deep-water fisheries, not to be compared,
for instance, with that of the winter haddock-fishery off the New England
coast. Even in 1905, when 4991 divers and an equal number of assistants
were employed in pearling, not a single fatal accident was reported, and
although much rough weather prevailed, not a fishing boat was lost. In the
important fishery of 1904, with 3049 divers, only one fatal accident
occurred, this was an elderly Moorman, whose death at the bottom was
apparently due either to apoplexy or to exhaustion from remaining under
water too long.
The superintendent of the fishery reported that not a single shark was
seen during the 1904 season.[146] According to the statement of Sir William
Twynam, whose Ceylon pearl fishing experience and observation equal
those of any European, he has never known of a diver being carried off by a
shark, and has heard of only one case—“which was a very doubtful
one.”[147] Prof. James Hornell, the inspector of pearl banks, reported in

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1904: “During all the months I have spent upon the pearl banks during the
last two years and a half I have never had a glimpse of a shark dangerous to
man. Several times the boatmen have caught basking sharks of considerable
size, but all were of a species that lives almost entirely upon small
crustaceans.”[148] The late Mr. A. M. Ferguson wrote in 1887: “I think it is
pretty certain that in the whole course of the Ceylon fisheries only two
human beings have fallen victims to these fierce fishes.”[149]
The diving continues until a signal is given from the guard vessel about
twelve or one o’clock, this time depending largely on the beginning of the
sea breeze which roughens the water and interferes with the work, and
likewise serves to speed the passage of the sail vessels to the shore.
Occasionally the breeze is unfavorable, and the boatmen are obliged to row
for miles, delaying their return in some instances until nightfall. Then the
shore is lighted up to guide them to the landings, and extra precautions are
maintained to prevent them from getting away with some of the oysters in
the darkness.
It is claimed—and doubtless with much truth—that it is not unusual for
the boatmen to take advantage of the time spent in reaching the shore to
surreptitiously open many of the oysters and extract the pearls therefrom,
throwing the refuse back into the sea. It would appear from some authorities
that this is a general practice. One official—and probably the one in the best
position to know—reported in 1905 that more than 15,000,000 oysters, or
nearly one fifth of the enormous catch during that season, were illicitly
opened.[150] However, this statement is strongly disputed by the
superintendent of the fishery, who states:
As a matter of fact the opening of oysters that goes on in the boats is of a much more casual
description than this. The divers occasionally pick out some of the best looking oysters that happen to
be conspicuous, or some that open, and look inside them. It is quite possible that a valuable pearl
might be found in this way, but the chances are against it. It is hardly likely that the divers would
throw into the sea an enormous quantity of perfunctorily examined oysters in which they have a share
and which contain pearls, while they were aware that immediately on landing they could get good
prices for their shares.[151]
The government officials have endeavored to put a stop to whatever
looting may exist, searching boats and occupants at the shore, revoking the
license of any boat showing evidence of oysters having been opened or
carrying knives or other appliances for that purpose. The fishermen are
alleged to resort to all sorts of devices to secrete their illicit find of pearls,
concealing them in the nose, ears, eyes, and other parts of the body, and

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even hiding them in parcels in the furled sails or attached to the embedded
anchor. In some seasons—as in 1904 and 1905—the government employed
a guard for each boat. But serious criticism has been made of the integrity
of these guards, who, with compensation of only one rupee per diem, could
scarcely be expected to resist the action of thirty or forty fishermen and
report their doings, when by silence they would have much to gain, and “the
guards simply add to the number of thieves on board” was reported by one
superintendent.
Doubtless the most interesting sight in the Ceylon fishery is afforded by
the return, about mid-afternoon, of the hundreds of novel, sail-spreading
boats running before the wind and crowded with turbaned fishermen
dressed in their few brilliant rags, and each anxious to be the first at the
wave-washed beach, where they are welcomed by an equal if not greater
number of officials, merchants, laborers, and camp followers, gathered on
the shore to learn the result of the fishery. The fantastic appearance of the
boats, the diversified costumes of the people, the general scene of
animation, afford a view which for novelty is rarely equaled even in the
picturesque Orient.
The average number of oysters brought in daily by each boat is about
10,000. Some days when the weather is unfavorable many of the boats
return empty; on other days they may have 25,000 or more. In 1905 the
maximum catch in one day for one boat was 29,990, while in 1904 a single
boat brought in 37,675 oysters. The catch by the entire fleet one day in 1905
was 4,978,686 oysters, or an average of 16,485 for each of the 302 boats
out on that occasion.
Each person taking part in the fishery receives as his compensation a
definite portion of the oysters. By government regulations, published in
1855 and yet operative, each sammatti, tindal, and todai receives daily one
dive of oysters from each diver in the boat to which they are respectively
attached. In some instances the hire of the boat is paid for in cash—about
Rs.1.50 per day from each diver,—but in most cases either one fifth or one
sixth of each diver’s portion is devoted to this purpose. After these
provisions have been made, each diver gives one third of his remaining
portion to his manduck, retaining the balance for himself. The Moormen
divers from Kilakarai commonly contribute one dive daily to the mosque of
their native town,[152] in addition to the portions given to the sammatti,

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tindal, and todai. Previous to 1855, the Hindu temples of the Madras
Presidency were allowed to operate a certain number of boats on their own
account, but this led to so many abuses that it was abolished.
After the boats are run up on the firm, hard beach, all the oysters are
removed by the crews of the boats into the government koddu or palisade, a
large wattle-walled and palm-thatched inclosure with square pens, each
bearing a number corresponding to that of each boat. This is done under
close supervision to prevent a diversion of the oysters from the regular
channels, which otherwise would be relatively easy among the animation
and excitement caused by the thousands of persons about the landing-place.
Within the government inclosure, the oysters taken by each boat are
divided by the fishermen themselves into three portions as nearly equal as
possible. This applies not only to the oysters falling to the share of the
divers and manducks, but also to those set apart for the sammatti, tindals,
and todais, for hire of the boat and even for the Kilakarai mosque. An
official indicates one of these as the share of the fishermen, who at once
remove their portion from the inclosure through a narrow gate on the
landward side. By this arrangement a satisfactory division of the oysters is
secured and all cause for complaint or unfairness is removed. Previous to
1881, the fishermen received only one fourth of the catch as compensation
for their work; but in that year their portion was increased to one third, at
which it has since remained.
As soon as the fishermen pass out of the government koddu with their
quota, they are met by a crowd of natives eager to buy the oysters in small
lots, and frequently at so many per rupee—ranging from eight to twelve
ordinarily. This “outside market” is one of the many interesting features of
the camp, for there are few persons on the shore who do not risk small sums
in testing their fortunes in this lottery. And a wonderful lottery it is too, in
which a man may risk a few coppers and win a prize worth hundreds of
dollars. A poor Tamil once bought five oysters for half a rupee, and in one
of them he found the largest pearl of the season. Any not sold among this
eager, animated throng are at once marketed with a native buyer. The diver
then hastens to immerse himself in one of the bathing tanks provided for the
purpose. It is claimed that if this bath is omitted after immersion all the
morning in the salt water of the gulf, the diver is liable to fall ill; and a

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sufficient supply of fresh water for this purpose is an important factor in the
arrangement of the camp.
Owing to their sale in much smaller lots, or as we may say, at retail, the
fishermen succeed in getting relatively high prices for their oysters, and
their earnings exceed one half of the government’s share. In 1905 this
amounted to probably £86,000, or an average of about $1350 for each of the
318 boats. However, some crews made very much more than this, with a
corresponding decrease for the others. Although 1905 was a record year for
large returns, even in an ordinary season pearl fishing is relatively
profitable, as a skilled diver earns five or six times as much as a common
laborer in Ceylon. The regulations particularly forbid the employment of
divers for a monetary consideration instead of for a share of the oysters
according to the established custom.
The remaining two thirds of the oysters in the koddu are the property of
the government. These are combined and counted. At nine o’clock each
evening they are sold at auction, and by noon of the following day all have
been removed, and the inclosure is ready for the incoming catch.
At the auction the number of oysters to be sold that evening is
announced, and bids are invited. Some one starts the bidding at, maybe,
Rs.20 or 25, and this is advanced by successive bids until the limit appears
to be reached, which may possibly be Rs.50 or 60. The successful bidder is
permitted to take as many oysters in multiples of 1000 as he chooses; and
after he is supplied, other merchants desiring them at that particular price
are accommodated. If there is no further demand for them at that price, the
bidding on the remaining oysters is begun precisely as at first, and when the
maximum bid is reached, all merchants willing to give that amount are
furnished with as many as they wish in multiples of 1000 as before. If this
does not exhaust the oysters, the bidding on the remainder is started up
again, and so on until all are sold.[153] No one knows at the time whether he
is buying a fortune in gems or only worthless shells.

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Indian pearl merchants ready for business

Children of Persian pearl dealers

The prices at which the oysters are sold at auction may differ greatly
from the estimated valuation of the samples secured in the February
examination. For instance, in 1905 the valuation of the South Madaragam
oysters was Rs.17.86 per 1000, yet the auction sales on the first day began
at Rs.53 and went up to Rs.61 per 1000, or three times the valuation; and
about the same general proportion of increase prevailed for the oysters from
the remaining banks, a result of great advances in the market for pearls.

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The auction prices for the different lots and from day to day are fairly
constant. But the shrewd Indian merchants know their business well and
keep in close touch with the yield, so that there are many variations in the
selling price that are puzzling to the uninitiated. A somewhat higher
estimation is placed on the oysters from certain banks, and also on those
from rocky portions of a particular reef, owing to their reputation for
yielding a larger percentage of pearls. The estimation of particular oysters
varies to some extent according to the amount of adhering rock and coral
growth. As already shown, the prices in 1906 covered the remarkable range
of from Rs.20 to 309 per 1000. Superstitious belief in luck also has its
influence, and a buyer may consider a certain day as unfavorable for him
and abstain from bidding on that occasion; or considering a particular day
as lucky, he may bid very high to secure a considerable portion of the sales.
The prices in different seasons vary greatly. In 1860, the average was
Rs.134.23 per 1000, which was unprecedentedly large; the nearest to this
was Rs.79.07 in 1874 and Rs.49 in 1905. In 1880, the average price per
1000 was only Rs.11, which was the lowest ever recorded. The records for
individual days greatly exceed these limits. The highest figures at which
oysters have sold on any one day was Rs.309 per 1000 in 1906, the
equivalent for each oyster of 10½ cents in American money. In 1874, the
price reached Rs.210 per 1000, and in 1905, the maximum price was
Rs.124, or about 4¼ cents for each oyster.
The oyster-buyers are principally wealthy Chetties from Madura,
Ramnad, Trichinopoli, Parambakudi, Tevakoddai, Paumben,
Kumbhakonam, and other towns of southern India. These are quite different
from the scantily clothed Naddukoddai Chetties so common in Ceylon.
Many of them are fashionably dressed in semi-European costume, with
walking-stick, patent leather boots, and other evidences of contact with
Europe. Smaller quantities of oysters are purchased by Moormen of
Kilakarai, Ramnad, Bombay, Adrampatam, Tondi, etc. A few oysters are
also purchased by the Nadans or Chánár caste people of Perunali, Kamuti,
and Karakal. Over 99 per cent. of the 50,346,601 oysters sold by the
government in 1905 were secured by Indian buyers, and less than one per
cent. by Cingalese. A few of the oysters—from two to five per cent.—are
sent to Indian and Ceylon ports, but most of them are opened at the fishing
camp.

Page 164

The purchaser of only a small number of oysters may open them at once
by means of a knife, and with his fingers and eyes search for the pearls. By
this method very small pearls may be easily overlooked, and it is scarcely
practicable in handling large quantities of oysters. These are removed to
private inclosures known as toddis or tottis, situated some distance from the
inhabited portions of the camp; where, exposed to the solar heat, they are
permitted to putrefy, and the fleshy parts to be eaten by the swarms of big
red-eyed bluebottle flies, and the residue is then repeatedly washed.
Shakspere may have had in view some such scene as this when he spoke
of the “pearl in your foul oyster.” The lady who cherishes and adorns
herself with a necklace of Ceylon pearls would be horrified were she to see
and especially to smell the putrid mass from which her lustrous gems are
evolved. The great quantity of repulsive bluebottle flies are so essential to
success in releasing the pearls from the flesh, that a scarcity of them is
looked upon as a misfortune to the merchants. However, except it may be at
the beginning of a fishery, there is rarely ever a cause for complaint on this
score, for commonly they are so numerous as to be a great plague to
persons unaccustomed to them, covering everything, and rendering eating
and drinking a difficult and unpleasant necessity, until darkness puts a stop
to their activities. But the intolerable stench, impossible of description, the
quintessence of millions of rotting oysters, fills the place, and makes
existence a burden to those who have not acquired odor-proof nostrils. This
animal decomposition seems almost harmless to health; indeed, the natives
evidently thrive on it, and eat and sleep without apparent notice of the
nauseous conditions. And yet vegetable decomposition in this region is
usually followed by fatal results. Notwithstanding sanitary precautions and
the usual quarantine camp and hospitals, cholera occasionally becomes
epidemic and puts a stop to the fishery, as was the case in 1889; but this
probably was due more to the violation of ordinary sanitary laws than to the
decaying oysters.
In a large toddi the oysters are placed in a ballam, or a dug-out tank or
trough, fifteen or twenty feet long and two or three feet deep, smooth on the
inside so that pearls may not lodge in the crevices. This tank is covered with
matting, and the toddi is closed up, sealed, and guarded for a week or ten
days, when the fly maggots will have consumed practically all of the flesh
tissues, leaving little else than the shells and pearls. The tank is then filled
with sea water to float out the myriads of maggots. Several nude coolies

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squat along the sides to wash and remove the shells. The valves of each
shell are separated, the outsides rubbed together to remove all lodgments
for pearls, and the interior examined for attached or encysted pearls. The
washers are kept under constant supervision by inspectors to prevent
concealment of pearls; they are not permitted to remove their hands from
the water except to take out the shells, and under no circumstances are they
allowed to carry the hands to the mouth or to any other place in which
pearls could be concealed.
After the shells have been removed, fresh supplies of water are added to
wash the debris, which is turned over and over repeatedly, the dirty water
being bailed out through sieves to prevent the loss of pearls. After thorough
washings, every particle of the sarraku, or material at the bottom of the
ballam, consisting of sand, broken pieces of shell, pearls, etc., is gathered
up in a cotton cloth. Later the sarraku is spread out on cloths in the sun to
dry, and the most conspicuous pearls are removed. When dry, the material is
critically examined over and over again, and winnowed and rewinnowed,
and after it seems that everything of value has been secured, the refuse is
turned over to women and children, whose keen eyes and deft fingers pick
out many masi-tul or dust-pearls; and even after the skill of these has been
exhausted, the apparently worthless refuse has a market value among
persons whose patience and skill meets with some reward. It is due largely
to the extreme care in the search that so many seed-pearls are found in
Ceylon.
And this leads to a discussion of what is commonly known in Ceylon as
the “Dixon washing machine.” This is an invention of Mr. G. G. Dixon who
constructed it at Marichchikadde in 1904 and 1905, at a total cost to the
government of about Rs.162,000,[154] including all expenses incidental to the
experiment. The machine involves two separate processes; the first consists
in separating the shells from the soft portion of the oysters, and the second
in recovering the pearls from the resultant sarraku after it has been dried. In
1905, about 5,000,000 oysters were put through this machine,[155] but with
what result has not been announced.
The shells having pearls attached to the interior surface are turned over to
skilled natives, who remove the valuable objects by breaking the shell with
hammers, and then with files and other implements remove the irregular
pieces of attached shell and otherwise improve the appearance.

Page 166

In no fishery in the world is the average size of the pearls secured
smaller, nor is the relative number greater than in that of Ceylon. It is rare
that one is found weighing over ten grains, and the number weighing less
than two grains is remarkable. For roundness and orient they are
unsurpassed by those of any region. However, Ceylon pearls worth locally
Rs.1000 ($400) are by no means abundant. The most valuable one found in
the important fishery of 1904, is said to have been sold in the camp for
Rs.2500. The fishery of 1905 yielded one weighing 76½ chevu, and valued
at Rs.12,000.
The quantity of seed-pearls obtained in the Ceylon fishery exceeds that of
any other—probably all other parts of the world. The very smallest—the
masi-tul,—for which there is no use whatever in Europe, have an
established value in India, being powdered for making chunam for chewing
with betel. Those slightly larger,—tul pearls—for which also there is no
market in Europe, are placed in the mouth of deceased Hindus of wealth,
instead of the rice which is used by poorer people.
The great bulk of the Ceylon pearls are silvery white in color, but
occasionally yellowish, pinkish, and even “black” pearls are found,
although the so-called “black” pearls are really brown or slate-colored. In
some seasons these are relatively numerous, as in 1887, for instance.
Notwithstanding the large product at the fishery camp, it is difficult to
purchase single pearls or small quantities there at a reasonable price, the
merchants objecting to breaking a mudichchu, or the lot resulting from
washing a definite number of oysters.
The shells obtained in the Ceylon fisheries do not possess sufficient
thickness of lustrous nacre for use as mother-of-pearl, and are mostly used
for camp-filling. A few are burned and converted into chunam, i.e.:
prepared lime for building purposes, or to be used by natives for chewing
with the betel-nut. Forty or fifty years ago, before the large receipts of
mother-of-pearl from Australia and the southern Pacific, there was a good
market for the shell for button manufacture and the like, but since 1875
only the choicest have been used for this purpose, and these are worth only
about $25 per ton delivered in Europe.
It will be observed that up to the close of the season of 1906, the Ceylon
fisheries were operated by the colonial government as a state monopoly. In
1904, proposals were made to the British colonial office by a London

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syndicate with a view to leasing the fisheries for a term of years. The
original suggestion was that they should be leased for thirty years in
consideration of an annual rental of £13,000 or Rs.195,000, together with a
share of the net profits after payment of a reasonable rate of interest on the
investment; and later it was suggested that the rental be Rs.100,000 a year
and twenty per cent. of the profits after seven per cent. on capital had been
paid to the shareholders. But the government preferred a definite money
payment without any rights to share in the profits realized; and after lengthy
negotiations this was fixed at Rs.310,000 annually, with certain preliminary
payments. Accordingly, on November 30, 1905, a preliminary agreement
was executed between the crown agents for the colonies, acting on behalf of
the government of Ceylon, and representatives of the Ceylon Company of
Pearl Fishers, Limited. On February 27, 1906, this agreement was
confirmed and made effective by special ordinance[156] of the governor and
legislative council of Ceylon, and the crown agents were authorized to
execute the lease as of January 1, 1906.
The principal financial terms of this lease required the company to
purchase the expensive Dixon pearl-washing machine at a cost of
Rs.120,000, which was Rs.42,000 less than it cost the government during
the preceding two years; to purchase at a cost of Rs.62,501 the steamship
Violet, which the government had used in its experimental oyster-culture; to
reimburse the government each year the amount spent in policing,
sanitation and hospital services at the fishery camp, which had in some
individual seasons amounted to more than Rs.200,000; to expend each year
from Rs.50,000 to Rs.150,000 in the development of pearl-oyster culture;
and to pay an annual rental of Rs.315,000, a rate based roughly on the
average return of the preceding twenty years, including the record year of
1905.
The company was authorized to take up the pearl-oysters by means of
divers, or by steam dredges, or by such other mechanical means as might
appear most advantageous, and to carry on such experiments with the
immature oysters as appeared most conducive to the profitable working of
the fisheries, provided they do nothing to make the resources less valuable
at the expiration of the lease.
One of the most interesting features of the lease is that relating to the
power of the colonial government to grant an exclusive right of fishing on

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the banks outside the three-mile limit. The question of this exclusive right
arose in 1890, but was not conclusively determined. Fearing lest this
authority did not exist, the terms in which the right of fishing was conveyed
were carefully chosen by the attorney general to protect the government
from liability “should any international question arise”;[157] and the
government leased to the company “all the right or privilege which the
lessors have hereto exercised and enjoyed of fishing for and taking pearl-
oysters on the coasts of Ceylon between Talaimannar and Dutch Bay Point,
to the intent that the company so far as the lessors can secure the same may
have the exclusive right, liberty and authority to fish for, take and carry
away pearl-oysters within the said limits.... But nothing in this lease shall be
taken to make the lessors answerable in damages if owing to any cause
beyond the control of the lessors the company is prevented from fully
exercising and enjoying such exclusive right and privilege.”[158]
In the meantime, while the negotiations were in progress, there occurred
the very profitable fishery of 1905, from which the colonial government
derived a revenue of Rs.2,510,727, or approximately eight times the
proposed annual rental; and before the lease was finally concluded occurred
the fishery of 1906, with its revenue of Rs.1,376,746. While it is true that a
succession of barren seasons prevailed from 1892 to 1902, yet, as the
revenue in 1903 was Rs.829,548, and in 1904 it was Rs.1,065,751, there
was, in the four years ending in 1906, a revenue to the government of
Rs.5,782,772, or nearly as much as the total amount to be derived from the
lease during the twenty years it was to run. These figures seemed to furnish
strong reasons for retaining such a valuable source of revenue, with its
possibilities of still greater expansion under the supervision and direction of
specialists in the employ of the government.
Many of the inhabitants of Ceylon saw in this a decided objection to the
lease, and there was a general feeling of indignation in the colony, with
public meetings in protest, and the like. In reply to a memorial prepared at
one of these meetings held in Colombo, Lord Elgin, the British secretary of
state for the colonies, wrote under date of May 9, 1906:
The memorialists have protested against the lease on the double ground that a lease on any terms is
contrary to the best interests of Ceylon, and that the rent agreed upon is “under existing
circumstances wholly inadequate.” There must always be in cases of this kind a difference of opinion
as to whether a fixed annual sum, with immunity from all expense and sundry other advantages, is or
is not preferable to continuing to face all the risks for the sake of all the profits. In the present

Page 169

instance the lease appears to me to have been drafted with a sincere desire to safeguard to the utmost
the property and interests of the Colony.

Street scene in Marichchikadde, the pearling camp of
Ceylon

Return of the fleet from the pearl reefs to Marichchikadde,
Ceylon

It may be true that the development of the fishery upon a scientific system affords good prospect
of a greater return in the future than has been obtained in the past, and affords at least the hope that
the barren cycles which have been so common in the past will not recur to the same extent. But the
operations necessary to that end are of a highly technical and experimental character, and I am very
doubtful whether any machinery which could be set in motion by the Government would be suited to
develop processes at once so doubtful and so delicate. In twenty years’ time the Colonial Government
will receive back the fishery, not only intact, but in the most perfect state to which commercial

Page 170

enterprise and scientific methods can raise it, and, in the meanwhile, a regular and substantial
payment is assured. Twenty years are no doubt a considerable period in the lifetime of individuals;
but if within that time all the resources that science can contribute toward systematic development of
the fisheries have been applied and thoroughly tested, the period will not, I think, be regarded as
excessive or unfortunate in the history of a fishery which has lasted for more than two thousand
years.[159]
The Ceylon Company of Pearl Fishers, Limited, with a paid up capital of
£165,000, has just entered into possession of its lease, and it is uncertain
what changes will be made in the methods of the fishery or what measure of
success will follow the attempts at pearl-oyster culture and the growth of
pearls. The attention of the pearling interests of the world is now directed to
the work of this company in the development of its magnificent leasehold,
and it seems not unlikely that greater changes will be made in the methods
of the industry during the ensuing decade than have occurred in the whole
of the last ten centuries.[160]
A curious fishery, with the Placuna placenta for its object, exists in
Tablegram Lake, a small bay in northeastern Ceylon adjacent to the
magnificent harbor of Trincomali, which Nelson declared to be “the finest
in the world.” At intervals during the nineteenth century, the Ceylon
government leased the Tablegram Lake fishery to native bidders for a
period of three consecutive years. In 1857, Dr. Kelaart visited the place and
calculated that in the three years preceding, eighteen million oysters had
been removed.[161] Owing to scarcity of the mollusk, no fisheries have
existed since 1890, but from 1882 to 1890 they were regularly leased at an
average of Rs.5000 for each term of three years. Prof. James Hornell, who
made a careful examination in 1905, reported that if the business were
carried on providently and systematically, “it should become the source of a
fairly regular annual revenue to Government of from Rs.10,000 to
Rs.12,000, possibly even more.”[162]
The Placuna oysters are caught by Moormen divers, who are scarcely
equal physically to the pearl fishery in the sea. They rarely descend more
than four fathoms, and most of the work in Tablegram Bay is in less than
two fathoms. Each diver returns with from one to five or more oysters,
depending on their abundance, and receives one half of the catch as his
share of the proceeds. Unlike the method in the pearl-oyster fishery of
Ceylon, the Placuna oysters are opened while fresh, this work being
performed by coolies, who are compensated at the rate of about Rs.3 per
1000.

Page 171

THE PEARL FISHERIES OF INDIA
There are two moments in a diver’s life:
One, when a beggar, he prepares to plunge;
Then, when a prince, he rises with his prize.

Robert Browning.

Notwithstanding the great fame of the pearl fisheries of India, those
prosecuted within the limits of British India proper are of small extent. The
only pearl resources within the empire are the rarely productive reefs on the
Madras coast in the vicinity of Tuticorin, the relatively modern fisheries of
Mergui Archipelago, and some small reefs of only local importance on the
Malabar coast and in the Bombay presidency.
The celebrity of India in connection with the pearl fisheries has never
rested on the extent of those within the territorial limits or under the control
of this government. It originated in the fact that it is largely Indian capital
which finances the fisheries of Ceylon and of the Persian Gulf; nearly all of
the divers and others employed in Ceylon are from the coast of this empire,
and most of the pearls are purchased by merchants of Bombay, Madura,
Trichinopoli, and other large towns. Thus, from an economic and industrial
point of view, the pearl fisheries of Ceylon, and to a less extent those of the
Persian Gulf, have contributed to the fame and to the wealth of the Empire
of India.
The pearl fisheries off Tuticorin in the Madras presidency have been
referred to incidentally in the account of the fisheries of Ceylon. They are
separated by only a few miles of water, and are prosecuted by the same
fishermen and in precisely the same manner. Consequently, it is difficult to
discuss them separately, especially in their early history and during the time
that this part of the world was under the rule of the Portuguese and later of
the Dutch.

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The pearling regions in
Ceylon and British India

The fisheries of the Madras coast compete in antiquity with those of
Ceylon. Indeed, from the time of Ptolemy to the seventeenth century, the
industry seems to have been prosecuted largely from the Madras side of the
gulf, centering at Chayl or Coil on the sandy promontory of Ramnad. This
place appears to be the Κόλχοι of Ptolemy, the Ramana Koil of the natives,
as well as the Cael of the travelers of the Middle Ages. But during the last
three hundred years, the Ceylon side has been the scene of the greatest
pearling operations; and from the Madras coast, the fisheries have not been
prosecuted except at long intervals, averaging once in fifteen or twenty
years.
Owing to the scarcity of oysters and to other causes, the fishery was
prosecuted on the Madras coast in only eight years of the whole period from
1768 to 1907. These years of productivity were 1822, 1830, 1860, 1861,
1882, 1889, 1890, and 1900; and even then the yield was relatively small.
The largest was 15,874,500 oysters in 1860, from which the Madras
government derived a revenue of Rs.250,276; and about half as many
oysters were obtained in 1861 with a revenue of Rs.129,003. Numerous and
prolonged experiments in conserving the reefs and in cultivating the oysters
have been made without success. The reason usually given for the greater
wealth of oysters on the Ceylon side is, that it is more sheltered from the
strong currents which sweep down the Bay of Bengal into the Gulf of
Manaar and impinge directly on the coast of the mainland.
The headquarters of the fishery are at Tuticorin, near to Madura, the
Benares of the south, the holy “City of Sweetness” which the gods have

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delighted to honor from time immemorial. But the camp is commonly
erected of palmyra and bamboo on the barren shore several miles distant
from Tuticorin. The 1890 fishery was at Salápatturai, and that of 1900 at a
place which received the mouth-filling name of Veerapandianpatanam.
The preparations for pearling at Tuticorin are similar to those on the
Ceylon coast. In the autumn the reefs are examined by government
inspectors, and if the conditions seem to warrant a fishery in the following
spring, arrangements are made therefor and the proper notification issued.
The announcement follows the general plan of that in Ceylon. The
following, from the Fort St. George “Gazette,” Madras, January 16, 1900, is
a copy of the notification preceding the last fishery which has occurred:
Notice is hereby given that a pearl fishery will take place at Veerapandianpatanam on or about the
12th March, 1900.
1. The bank to be fished is the Theradipulipudithapar, estimated to employ 100 boats for twenty
days with average loads of 7,000 oysters per day.
2. It is therefore recommended that such boat owners and divers as may wish to be employed shall
be at Tuticorin on or before the 1st of March next and anchor their boats abreast of the government
flagstaff; the first day’s fishing will take place on the 12th of March, weather permitting.
3. The fishery will be conducted on account of Government, and the oysters put up for sale in such
lots as may be deemed expedient.
4. The arrangements of the fishery will be the same as have been usual on similar occasions.

PEARLS PRESENTED BY
THE IMAM OF MUSCAT
TO PRESIDENT VAN
BUREN

Now in the United States
National Museum,
Washington, D. C.

Page 174

5. Payments to be made in ready money in rupees or in Government of India notes. Checks on the
Bank of Madras or Bank Agencies will be received on letters of credit being produced to warrant the
drawing of such checks.
6. All particulars can be obtained on application to the Superintendent of Pearl Fisheries, Tuticorin.
Sd/—J. P. Bedford,
Collector.

Tinnevelly Collector’s Office,
16th November 1899.

On the long sweep of desolate shore at a place convenient to the reefs, a
temporary camp is erected, just as is done on the Ceylon coast. However,
this camp is not nearly so large, only about one fourth or one fifth the size
of that on the eastern side of the gulf. It resembles the larger one in the
quarters for divers and merchants, the bazaars, the bungalows for the
officials, the hospital, the sale and washing inclosures, etc.; in addition to
these is the temporary Roman Catholic chapel.
The divers are mainly of the Parawa caste from Tuticorin, Pinnacoil,
Pamban, etc. on the Madras coast. Although influenced by many Hindu
superstitions, they are nominally Roman Catholics, as evidenced by the
scapulars suspended from the neck, their ancestors having been converted
and baptized through the zealous work of that prince of missionaries, St.
Francis Xavier, in the sixteenth century. Even yet a chapel at Pinnacoil is
held in special reverence by these people as a place where the saintly father
preached. Professor Hornell writes that the present hereditary head of this
caste is Don Gabriel de Croos Lazarus Motha Vaz, known officially as the
Jati Talaiva More, or Jati Talaivan. He resides at Tuticorin, and is largely the
intermediary between the government and the Parawa fishermen.
In the details of its prosecution, the Madras fishery differs in no
important particular from that of Ceylon. The boats are manned and
operated in precisely the same way; they fish in the morning only, taking
advantage of the prevailing favorable winds; the divers carry the oysters
into the government inclosure, and divide them into three equal lots, of
which they receive one; the share of the government is auctioned daily, the
divers disposing of theirs as they choose; and the oysters are rotted and
washed in the same manner as in Ceylon.
In addition to the fishery for pearl-oysters at Tuticorin, two other species
of pearl-producing mollusks are collected in the Madras presidency; one of
these is a species of mussel (Mytilus smaragdinus, according to Dr. Edgar

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Thurston of the Madras Museum), which is collected from the estuary of
the Sonnapore River near Berhampore; and the other is the Placuna
placenta, found in many places in this presidency, and especially in Pulicat
Lake and in the vicinity of Tuticorin.
The Sonnapore mussels, which are small and bright green in color, are
found adhering to the masses of edible oysters in depths of ten or twelve
feet of water. They are caught in a novel manner, as described in a letter
from the acting collector of customs at Ganjam. Thrusting a long bamboo
pole deep into the bottom of the reef, the fisherman dives down, and
holding on to this bamboo, breaks off as large a mass of the oysters as he
can bring to the surface in one hand, helping himself up the bamboo pole
with the other. Removing the mussels from the mass, he opens them with a
suitable knife and by running his thumbs and fingers over the flesh tissues,
detects the pearls therein. These pearls are of very inferior quality and of
little ornamental value. They are sold mostly for chunám and for placing in
the mouth of deceased Hindus.
Along the west coast of India, in the Bombay presidency, a few pearls are
found at various places, but the output is of slight value. The most
important of these is off the coast of Nawanagar, on the south side of the
Gulf of Cutch, where the true pearl-oyster is found.
According to the “Jamnagar Diwan,” the yearly value of the Nawanagar
fisheries is about Rs.4000. This is smaller than formerly, as the reefs are in
a depleted state; to give them a chance to recuperate, a close season was
established in 1905. The oysters are found along a coast-line eighty miles in
length extending from Mangra, near Jodya Bunder, to Pindera in the Gulf of
Cutch, and also about the islands of Ajad, Chauk, Kalumbar, and Nora,
which are also situated in the Cutch Gulf. They are not procured by diving,
but are gathered off the rocks when the tide is out. During the monsoon, the
collection is limited to eight days in the month; i.e., from the twelfth to the
fifteenth of each half according to the Hindu calendar.
The fisheries are by law restricted exclusively to the waghers of ten
villages, which are Varinar, Sashana, Sika, Balachedi, Jhakher, Sarmat,
Bharana, Salaya, Chudesar, and Bedi. The collection of the pearls is left
entirely to these men, who at Divala—the Hindu new year—bring all the
pearls gathered by them to the durbar. There an estimate is made of their
value, one fourth of which is paid to the waghers, and the pearls are turned

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over to the representatives of the state treasury for sale. This method of
conducting the industry has been long established. In recent years the
government experimented in farming out the revenue, but the old custom
has been resumed in order to placate the native fishermen.
A few pearl-oysters are also found on the Ratnagiri coast below Bombay,
and likewise at Kananur in the Malabar district. In 1901–1902, there was
some local excitement about pearls found at Belapur and quantities were
reported as collected; but since then little has been heard of the industry in
that region.
Elsewhere on the west coast of India, pearls are obtained from the so-
called “window-glass” shell, of the genus Placuna. The individual shells are
flat, thin, and transparent, and are still used in Goa and vicinity as a
substitute for glass in windows. This mollusk is abundant from Karachi,
near the Baluchistan border, to the Kanara district south of Bombay; and
wherever it occurs in any abundance it is collected for the sake of the small
pearls found therein.
Of the fishery at Karachi, Mr. E. H. Aitken writes: “It is farmed out by
Government for a good sum. In 1901, the amount realized was Rs.3650 for
a period of three years; but the lessee lost heavily, and in 1904 the highest
offer for a similar period of three years was Rs.1851. Pearls may be found
in as many as ten to twenty per cent. of the mature mollusks.” Pearls are far
more numerous in the Placuna than in the pearl-oysters, but few of them
are of sufficient size or luster to be used as ornaments, ranking with the so-
called medicinal pearls of Europe. They are much softer in texture than the
pearls of the Margaritiferæ. The largest are commonly of irregular form,
with the surface slightly botryoidal or like the “strawberry” pearls of the
Mississippi. While not often used as ornaments, they are highly valued by
the Hindus in calcined or powdered form for medicinal purposes, and
especially to be chewed with the betel-nut, and are also used in the original
form in funeral rites, a small quantity being placed in the mouth of a
deceased person.
In the Mergui Archipelago, which is within the territory of lower Burma
and under the jurisdiction of the government of British India, patches of
pearl-oyster reefs are scattered over an area roughly computed at 11,000
square miles, taking 97° 40′ as the western boundary. They occur
principally in the strong tidal passages among the islands. The bottom is

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formed largely of porphyritic granite interspersed with sand and thinly
covered with corals, coral cups, the long whip-like black coral (Antipathes
arborea), and other submarine animal and vegetable growths.[163] These
constitute a home most favorable to the growth and development of
molluscan life.
Of the several species of pearl-bearing mollusks occurring in the Mergui
Archipelago, by far the most important is the “mok,” or large Australian
pearl-oyster (Margaritifera maxima). The shell attains a maximum size of
about thirteen inches in diameter, and the nacre is of a milky or silvery
color. This species occurs in its two varieties of “golden lip” and “silver
edge,” the former being in greater abundance. The “silver edge” shell is the
more valuable owing to its uniformity of coloring, and the pearls found
therein are of superior luster and orient.
The “pate goung,” or Lingah pearl-oyster (Margaritifera vulgaris), is
similar to that of the Gulf of Manaar. It is circular in shape and measures
about two and one half inches in diameter. The nacre is silvery, with slight
yellowish tinge. Many of the pearls from this species are of a silvery color,
but most of them are yellowish or golden. The fishery for this mollusk is of
little importance compared with that for the larger pearl-oyster, which is the
species referred to in Mergui when not otherwise mentioned.
The pearl fisheries of Mergui originated with the Selangs or Salangs, a
nomadic race of maritime gipsies, the last remnants of whom live among
the three thousand islands of this group. They are supposed to be of Malay
descent; but their early history is unknown, and they are rapidly passing
away in the conflict of existence with the neighboring peoples. Probably in
no part of the world are the pearl fisheries prosecuted by a more primitive
class of men. With their women and children, they live mainly in roomy
dug-out boats; but during the southwest monsoon they erect temporary
shelters on the shore, these consisting of a few frail sticks, supporting
coverings of braided mats, and floors of bamboo strips.
They have few wants and derive a livelihood principally from gathering
and bartering shells, pearls, cured thadecon, and nests of the sea-swallow
(Collocalia). Within depths of six or eight fathoms they are fairly good
divers, both the men and the women, but their physical endurance is slight.
Their trade is mostly with Chinese merchants who visit them in small
vessels. No information exists as to when the Selangs first found profit in

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searching for pearls; but it was probably many centuries ago, and for a long
time they made contributions of them to the Buddhist rulers of Burma.
Shortly after the acquisition of Mergui Archipelago in 1826,
representatives of the British government brought experienced divers from
southern India to examine more fully the resources which the Selangs had
made known; but as only seed-pearls were secured, the government
concluded that they would yield an insignificant revenue, and the attempt to
develop these resources was given up.[164]
However, the Selangs continued to fish in their primitive fashion; and as
the market for the shell developed, the profits increased. But their wants
were easily appeased, and the increased profits were counterbalanced by
decreased activities. Old traders among the islands tell of the opportunities
of those days when choice pearls could be obtained for a pinch of opium or
for a few ounces of tobacco.
Far from the highways of the world, the Selangs remained undisturbed in
their beautiful seas until nearly twenty years ago. Meanwhile, 800 miles
distant, Singapore had arisen from a desert shore to the rank of a great
seaport, and the headquarters for the pearl fishery of the Malay Archipelago
and of the northwestern coast of Australia. In this fishery the vessels were
well equipped and depended on the use of diving apparatus rather than on
nude divers.
Beginning about 1888, some of these vessels made occasional visits to
the Mergui pearl-oyster reefs, and usually with very profitable results. This
was the first instance in which diving apparatus was successfully introduced
on any part of the Asiatic coast from the Red Sea to Malacca Strait. So great
was the profit that nearly every one on the lower coast of Burma with
sufficient capital or credit hastened to obtain a boat and diving equipment.
The success of some of these early ventures was remarkable, single pearls
worth $3000, $5000, and even $10,000 each being secured. The reefs in the
shoal waters were rapidly depleted, to the great disadvantage of the nude
Selangs, who can do little in deep water.
With a view to deriving a revenue from these well-equipped vessels, the
government of Burma in 1898 divided the 11,000 square miles of pearling
territory into five definite areas known as “blocks.” The area within each of
these blocks was surveyed, marked, and charted; and the financial
commissioner from time to time determined as to each block whether

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licenses for pearl fishing should be issued, or whether the exclusive right
therein should be leased. These leases were disposed of either by inviting
tenders and granting the lease to any of the persons who might tender, or by
public auction, as the financial commissioner might direct. By the terms of
the lease, the lessee was obliged to register at the office of the deputy
commissioner of finance the number of boats and pumps employed by him;
to declare by letter, at the end of each month, the number, weight, and
estimated value of all mother-of-pearl shell and pearls collected during the
month, and to refrain from taking any mother-of-pearl measuring less than
six inches from lip to hinge.
Outside the limits of blocks in which the exclusive pearl fishing was
leased, licenses to use diving implements were granted in such number and
on payment of such fees, not exceeding Rs.1000 per apparatus, as might
from time to time be fixed, every such license expiring on June 30 next
following the date on which it was granted, and no license was transferable.
The five blocks in which the Mergui pearling rights were leased are of
large area, averaging somewhat over 2000 square miles each. The lessees
customarily granted permits to subsidiary fishermen to operate in their
respective blocks, on payment of a royalty, this ranging in amount from
12½ to 25 per cent. of the mother-of-pearl secured, and the pearls found
were the absolute property of the fishermen.
Until 1900 the pearling rights were leased by blocks as above noted.
Rights to catch trochus, green snail shells, and sea-slugs, were included in
the lease. It was noticed that European pearlers always sublet the trochus
and green snail rights, and it was decided to auction these separately; while
as regards pearling proper the auction system was abolished in that year in
favor of a system of licensing individual vessels for a fee of Rs.400 each.
The right to collect pearls by nude diving was thought for some time to
have been left free; but subsequently it was auctioned along with the rights
to collect green snails, trochus and sea-slugs.
The following summary, compiled from data furnished by Mr. I. H.
Burkill of the Indian Civil Service, shows the extent of the pearl and shell
fisheries of Mergui for a series of years.

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Year. No. of Revenue from Revenue from Auction Reported Value of Yield.
Pumps. Pumps. Rights. Rs.
Rs. Rs.
1904 70 28,000 22,500 149,239
1905 77 30,800 14,200 131,921
1906 80 32,000 15,300 124,798
1907 76 30,400 19,700

The local headquarters of the industry are at Mergui, but most of the
supplies are drawn from Maulmain and Rangoon, or from the more distant
Singapore, where the industry is financed. The season extends from October
to April or May, when the southwest monsoon begins and puts a stop to the
fishery on this exposed coast.
The boats used are mostly of Burmese build. They measure from 25 to 35
feet in length, and 7 or 8 feet in width, and have 18 to 24 inches of draft,
with curved or half-moon shaped keels, and with high square sterns. Owing
to the very light draft and the amount of free-board, they are deficient in
weatherly qualities; but are fast sailors before the wind and are easily rowed
from place to place. For this reason they are especially suited to the industry
in Mergui, because during the pearling season calms and light winds prevail
and oars form the principal motive power, especially in the channels and
passageways between the islands where the tides are frequently very swift.
If a number of boats are of the same ownership, a schooner of thirty to
one hundred tons’ capacity is commonly provided as a floating station and
base of supplies for them; the gathering of such a fleet presents an
interesting sight, like a great white hen among her brood of chickens.

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FROM THE TREASURY OF
THE EMIR OF BOKHARA

Necklace and earrings.
Property of an American lady

Most of the boats are from Mergui, and are chartered at a monthly rate of
from Rs.105 to Rs.120 each, including a crew of four or five Burmans with
their subsistence, consisting principally of rice and salted fish; the charterer
is further required to pay each member of the crew four annas, or one rupee,
for each day actually employed in operating the diving pump. In addition to
these men, each boat carries one diver and an attendant, commonly known
as “tender.” The boat is sailed or rowed by the crew, as directed by the
diver; and while the latter is submerged, the boat and crew are under the
supervision of the attendant.
The divers are the most important men in the fleet, for on their ability and
efficiency depends the success of the enterprise. A very considerable
portion of them are natives of the Philippine Islands, although many
Japanese have been employed recently, and the number is increasing. The
compensation is at the rate of £2 to £4 per month, and £20 for each ton of
mother-of-pearl secured. The attendants are likewise mostly Manilamen,
but many Malayans and Burmans are employed; the wages range from
Rs.50 to Rs.80 per month, including provisions. The peculiar duties of the
attendant are to help the diver into his dress, place the shoulder leads into
position, screw on the helmet, and especially to receive and respond to
signals and to direct the movements of the vessel in accordance therewith.

Page 182

The scaphander, or diving dress, is composed of solid sheet rubber,
covered on both sides with canvas. The head-piece is made of tinned
copper, and is fitted with three glasses, one at the front and one on each
side, so as to afford the diver as wide a view as is consistent with strength
of construction. It has a valve by which he can regulate the pressure of the
atmosphere. The dress has a double collar, the inner portion coming up
around the neck, and the other hermetically fastened to the breastplate. The
breastplate is likewise made of copper. The suit is connected with the air-
pump by means of a stout rubber tube which enters the helmet, and through
which air is supplied to the diver incased therein. This air-tube consists of
three or four lengths—each of fifty feet—of light hose, commonly called
“pipe.” This is buoyant so that it may be easily pulled along, and may not
readily foul among the rocks. However, when working on very rough
bottom with sharp-edged stones, the lower length is of stouter material in
order to resist the chafing on the bottom. Before descending, the air-line is
loosely coiled around the diver’s arm to prevent a sudden strain on it when
it is tightened, and a signal-line is attached to his waist to enable him to
communicate with the men above.
In fishing, if the current is slight, the boat is permitted to drift therewith,
and if there is little or no current, it is propelled by oars as may be required.
The diver—fully dressed in the rubber suit with helmet, etc.,—goes
overboard easily by means of a Jacob’s ladder of five or six rungs on the
port side of the boat, and is lowered by an attendant, who gives close
attention to the lines, the crew having manned the pump in the meantime.
On reaching bottom, the diver walks along, following the course of the
moving boat and swinging his shoulders from side to side to take in a wide
vision in his search for oysters. In clear water he can discover them at a
distance of twenty-five or thirty feet, even when fifteen fathoms below the
surface; but sometimes the water is so clouded that it may be necessary for
him to go almost on hands and knees to see them, and when the seaweeds
are thick and high, he may locate them almost as much by feeling as by
sight. Owing to this difficulty in seeing the oysters, the work is suspended
in rough weather and for many days following. The catch is placed in a sack
or basket of quarter inch rope, which is raised when filled, emptied, and
returned to the bottom by means of a rope.
Finding the shell is by no means an easy matter, and much natural hunter-
craft is necessary. Of a neutral color, it is not at all conspicuous as it lies on

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a gray coral bed, itself covered with coral or sponge or hidden in dense
masses of gorgeous seaweeds. Still less visible is the shell on a muddy
bottom, for there it embeds itself and exposes only half an inch or so of the
“lip.” As the boat is impelled by the tide, the diver may have to walk rapidly
in a swinging gait; and if he should stumble or fall while stooping to pick
up the shell, recovery of balance may be difficult. He must be constantly on
the alert and has many dangers to avoid. Sharks are numerous in these clear
tropical waters; but although disaster sometimes results, they are timid, a
stream of air bubbles from the sleeve of the dress sending them away in
fright. More fruitful sources of danger are fouled air-pipes, broken pumps,
falling into holes, and especially paralysis from recklessly deep diving.
When the diver wishes to come up, he closes the escape valve in his
helmet; his dress fills and distends with air, causing a speedy return to the
surface, and the tender hauls him alongside by means of the life-line. After
“blowing” for a few minutes with the helmet removed, and usually enjoying
the indispensable cigarette, he returns to the bottom.
When the Mergui reefs were first exploited by diving apparatus, the bulk
of the shells were secured from depths of ten to twelve fathoms. These
shallow reefs have been exhausted, temporarily, at least, and the divers now
work in deeper water, fifteen, twenty, and even twenty-five fathoms, if the
bottom is very uneven and rocky. Many shells are found in the depressions
between the large boulders, which may be twenty or thirty feet deeper than
the surrounding areas.
The oysters are opened by means of the long-bladed working-knife of the
country, known as dah-she. The flesh is thrown into a large basket or
washtub, where it is searched by the proprietor of the boat, who takes each
piece between the hands and squeezes and feels through every part of it.
After the flesh has been carefully examined, the sediment at the bottom of
the tub is washed and panned to obtain those pearls which have fallen
through the flesh tissues. The Mergui pearls are commonly of good color
and luster, and compare favorably with those from the Sulu Archipelago or
the Dutch East Indies.
The sea-green shell of the snail (Turbo marmoratus) is gathered in large
quantities by the nude diving Selangs, who barter it to Chinese traders at the
equivalent of Rs.8 or 10 per 100 in number. The flesh is also dried and

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disposed of to these traders under the name of thadecon, at about Rs.3 per
viss of 3.33 pounds. This mollusk yields a few greenish yellow pearls.
In 1895, three pearl reefs were discovered off the Bassein coast in the
district of Irawadi.[165] These proved fairly remunerative for one season and
a portion of another, when they were abandoned.

Page 185

THE PEARL FISHERIES OF THE RED SEA, GULF OF
ADEN, ETC.
Under the Ptolemies, and even long after—under the Califs—these were islands whose
merchants were princes; but their bustle and glory have since departed from them, and they are
now thinly inhabited by a race of miserable fishermen.
James Bruce (1790).

The Red Sea was one of the most ancient sources of pearls, furnishing
these gems for centuries before the Christian era, and particularly during the
reign of the Ptolemies. These pearls were alluded to by Strabo, Ælianus,
and other classical writers. Although the prominence of the fisheries has
suffered by comparison with those of Persia and Ceylon, the yield has been
more or less extensive from the days of Solomon up to the present time.
Of the several pearl-yielding mollusks in the Red Sea and on the
southeast coast of Arabia, the largest and best known is that called “sadof”
by the Arabs, and which has been identified by Jameson as Margaritifera m.
erythræensis. This is closely related to the large species in the Persian Gulf.
It is commonly four or five inches in diameter, and in exceptional instances
attains a diameter of eight inches and a weight of three pounds or more. In
addition to its size, it is distinguished by a dark green coloring about the
edges, and a more or less greenish tint over the nacreous interior surface;
this color is darker in the vicinity of Jiddah and Suakin than at the southern
end of the sea, or in the Gulf of Aden. This species occurs singly rather than
congregated in beds or reefs. Although it is found in depths of fifteen
fathoms or more, most of the fishing is in less than five fathoms of water.

Page 186

Persian Gulf and the Red Sea,
the pearling center of the
world

The “sadof” yields pearls only rarely, and is sought principally for the
shells, which afford good qualities of mother-of-pearl, the pearls furnishing
an additional but always looked-for profit to the regular source of income.
As in other regions, there is no constant relation between the value of the
pearls and the quantity of mollusks taken. The oysters of some reefs are
comparatively rich in certain years; while in other seasons or on other reefs
the mollusks may be numerous but yield very few pearls.
The second species of importance in the Red Sea is similar to the Lingah
oyster and is known to the Arabs as “bulbul.” This is much smaller than the
“sadof,” averaging less than three inches in diameter. It is collected for the
pearls exclusively, the shells being too small for industrial use; but only 3 or
4 per cent. of the individuals yield pearls.
It is claimed by writers of authority that it is the red Pinna pearl from this
sea that is referred to in the Scriptures under the name peninim as the most
precious product, and which has been translated as rubies.[166] The shell is
extremely fragile, and the nacreous interior is white tinged with a beautiful
red. It is of little importance in the commercial fisheries of the Red Sea at
the present time.
The “sadof” is more scattered and less numerous than the “bulbul”; and
in order to save much useless diving, it is customary to inspect the bottom
before descending. Therefore, operations are largely restricted to calm
weather, when the water is sufficiently clear to enable the divers to sight the
individual oysters on the bottom. In recent years, water-telescopes have
been used to assist in locating them. The most popular form consists of a tin
can with a sheet of glass inserted in the bottom. The glazed end of the tin is

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submerged several inches below the surface, affording a far-reaching and
much clearer vision. In this fishery the divers work from small canoes (uri),
each manned by two men, one of whom rows while the other leans over the
bow and searches for the oysters. When one is sighted, he dives into the
water for it, and then returns to the boat to resume the search.
The pearling season begins commonly in March or April, and continues
until about the end of May; it is renewed in the autumn, continuing through
September and October.[167] The vessels employed are of two varieties:
dhows carrying from twenty to eighty men each, and the much smaller
sambuks or sail-boats without decks, each with from six to twenty-five men,
most of whom are Negro slaves. Many of the large vessels are from the
Persian Gulf. The sambuks are owned principally by Zobeid Bedouins
inhabiting the coast between Jiddah and Yambo, and also the islands near
the southern end of the sea, which are very hot-beds of pearls, shells,
religious frenzy and half famished Arabs and Negro slaves.
The “bulbul” oysters are taken in nearly the same manner as in the
Persian Gulf. When the vessel is located over the reef, each diver descends,
commonly with a short stick of iron or hard wood, with which he releases
the oysters within reach; placing them in a sack, he is pulled up by an
attendant when his breath is nearly exhausted.
The fisheries are prosecuted along both sides of the Red Sea and in the
channels among the islands, from the Gulf of Akabah to Bab-el-Mandeb.
They are especially extensive among the Dahlak Islands on the coast of the
Italian colony Eritrea, where the population is largely supported by them.
This was the center of the industry during the time of the Ptolemies and in
the early Christian era. The fisheries are also important in the vicinity of
Jiddah, the port of entrance for Mecca and Medina, holiest places of Islam.
They likewise exist near Kosseir at the northern end of the sea, and at
Suakin, Massawa, the Farsan Islands, and Loheia, near the lower end. They
are carried on by Arabs, who succeed in evading efforts at control on the
part of the local governments. Even on the African side, the Arab fishermen
predominate, for the native Egyptian has never evinced much fondness for
venturing on the sea.
On the southeast coast of Arabia, pearl fishermen are to be found at the
various harbors from Aden to Muscat. Their fantastic dhows are met with in
the harbor of Makalla, and also in that of Shehr. On the Oman coast, the

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ports of Sur and of sun-scorched Muscat do a considerable pearling
business, not only locally but to the Sokotra Islands, and even on the coast
of East Africa and Zanzibar, the trading baggalas adding pearling and illicit
slave-trading to their many sources of income. A number of these traders,
each with an instinct for pearls equal to that of a trained hound for game,
visit the fishing centers at intervals, and exchange needful commodities for
pearls and shells.
The Arab pearl-divers of the Red Sea have been noted for the depths to
which they can descend. Lieutenant J. R. Wellsted, of the Indian Navy, who
had unusual facilities for acquaintance with their exploits, reported that in
the Persian Gulf the fishermen rarely descended beyond eleven or twelve
fathoms, and even then they exhibited signs of exhaustion; but that in the
Red Sea they go down twice that depth. Among the most noted of these
divers of the last century was old Serúr, who attracted the notice of many
travelers. Lieutenant Wellsted states that he saw him descend repeatedly to
twenty-five fathoms without the slightest evidence of distress; that he
frequently dived in thirty fathoms, and is reported to have brought up mud
from the bottom at a depth of thirty-five fathoms, which is about the record,
the pressure of the water being nearly 90 pounds to the square inch. His
sons were also remarkably expert; one of them when scarcely thirteen years
of age would descend to a depth of twenty-five fathoms.[168]

CARVED “JERUSALEM
SHELL” FROM THE RED
SEA

In the collection of Dr.
Bashford Dean

Page 189

An interesting story of an Arab’s diving ability is told by Lieutenant
Wellsted: “In 1827, we were cruising in the sloop Ternate on the pearl
banks. Whilst becalmed and drifting slowly along with the current, several
of the officers and men were looking over the side at our Arab pilot, who
had been amusing himself in diving for oysters. After several attempts, his
search proved unsuccessful. ‘Since I cannot get oysters I will now,’ said he,
‘dive for and catch fish.’ All ridiculed the idea. He went down again, and
great was our astonishment to see him, after a short time, rise to the surface
with a small rock-fish in each hand. His own explanation of the feat was,
that as he seated himself at the bottom, the fish came around and nibbled at
his skin. Watching his opportunity, he seized and secured his prey by
thrusting his thumb and forefinger into their expanded gills.”[169]
Owing to the character of the fishery and the lack of government
supervision, it is extremely difficult to determine accurately the extent of
this industry in the Red Sea and the Arabian Gulf. All over this coast
extends the influence of the Hindu traders, who finance the fisheries and
purchase most of the catch. The pearls are sent mostly to Bombay, and are
not reported in the official returns of the Red Sea ports. The fishermen are
suspicious of outside inquiries, and are far from anxious to impart reliable
information. Probably the best estimates of the catch are to be obtained
from Bombay merchants, from whom A. Perazzoli learned in 1898 that
pearls to the value of 2,000,000 lire ($400,000) were carried from the Red
Sea to Bombay each year.[170] In the last four or five years the output has
been smaller than usual, owing to disturbed political conditions.
The annual product of “Egyptian” and “Bombay” shells in these fisheries
is usually upward of 1000 tons, worth from $100 to $600 per ton, according
to quality. Most of these go to Austria and France, only about 200 tons
reaching London each year. Owing to the dark color and the lack of
thickness in the nacreous layer, they are scarcely suitable for anything else
than button manufacture. Many of them are sent to Bethlehem and
Jerusalem, where they are cut into various shapes for crosses, crucifixes,
wafer-boxes, beads, and nearly every conceivable article in which mother-
of-pearl is manufactured. Many of the choicest shells are incised with
scriptural or allegorical designs for sale to tourists as well as for export. The
best of the engraved shells sell for $10 to $50, and the cheaper ones for less
than $1 each. This industry is of great importance in Bethlehem, giving

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employment to a considerable percentage of the eight thousand inhabitants
of the village.
Doubtless in no pearl fishery in the world are greater hardships endured
than in the Red Sea and along the coast of the Arabian Gulf. In practically
every other region, the industry is carried on under government supervision,
and there is little opportunity for ill-treatment of the humbler fishermen.
But the fanatics who control the fishery on the Arabian coast—
untrammeled by authorities and responsible to none—show little
consideration for the poor divers, and particularly for the unfortunate black
slaves brought from the coast of Africa.
These pearl fishermen lead a very eventful life, the divers especially.
They see some wonderful sights down below the surface-plant life and
creeping things and enemies innumerable. Dropping from the sun-scorched
surface down into the deep cool waters, everything shows “a sea change,
into something rich and strange,” just as the eyes of the drowned man in
Ariel’s song are turned into pearls and his bones into coral.
And there are enemies innumerable. The terrible sharks, prowling about
near the bottom, prove a source of perpetual uneasiness, and in the
aggregate many fishermen are eaten by these bloodthirsty tigers of the sea.
There are horrible conflicts with devil-fish equaling that in Hugo’s “Toilers
of the Sea.” The saw-fish is also a source of danger, particularly in the
Arabian Gulf, and instances are reported in which divers have been cut in
two by these animals, which sometimes attain a length of twelve or fifteen
feet, and possess a saw five feet long and three inches broad, armed on each
edge with teeth two inches in length. Another menacing peril is the giant
clam (Tridacna gigas), a monster bivalve, whose shell measures two or
three feet in diameter, and is firmly anchored to the bottom. This mollusk
occurs on many of the Asiatic pearling grounds. Lying with the scalloped
edges a foot or more apart, a foot or a hand of the diver may be accidentally
inserted. When such a fate befalls a fisherman, the only escape is for him to
amputate the member immediately. Once in a while on the pearling shores a
native may be found who has been maimed in this manner, but usually the
unfortunate man does not escape with his life.

Page 191

CAP OF STATE, FROM
LOOTING OF SUMMER
PALACE, PEKIN, IN 1860

Now in South Kensington
Museum

Page 192

THE PEARL FISHERIES OF CHINA, JAPAN, SIBERIA,
ETC.
Do churls
Know the worth of Orient pearls?
Give the gem which dims the moon
To the noblest or to none.

Emerson, Friendship.

It appears from ancient Chinese literature, noted in the first chapter of
this book, that pearl fisheries have existed in the rivers of China for several
thousand years. The Chinese also derived pearls from the sea, and
especially from the coast of the province of Che-kiang. Little is known of
the early fisheries, but the fragmentary literature contains so many allusions
to pearls as to lead us to believe that they were of considerable extent and
importance.
It is related that about 200 B.C., a pearl dealer at Shao-hing, an ancient
city between Hang-chau and Ning-po, on the shore of Hang-chau Bay,
furnished to the empress a pearl one inch in diameter, for which he received
five hundred pieces of silver; and to an envious princess the same dealer
sold a “four-inch pearl.” A hundred years later, the reigning emperor sent an
agent to the coast to purchase “moon pearls,” the largest of which were two
thirds of an inch in diameter.
In the tenth century A.D., Mingti, one of the most extravagant of the early
monarchs, used so many pearls—not only in his personal decoration but on
his equipage and retinue,—that after a formal procession the way would be
rich in the jewels which dropped from the gorgeous cortège. About 1000
A.D., an embassy to the emperor brought as tribute an ornament composed
of strings of pearls, and also 105 liang (8¾ lbs.) of the same gems
unmounted.
An interesting story is told of “pearl-scattering” by an embassy to the
Chinese court from a Malayan state about 1060. Following the customs of
their country, the ambassadors knelt at the threshold of the audience
chamber, and then advanced toward the throne, bearing a golden goblet
filled with choice pearls and water-lilies wrought of gold. These they

Page 193

scattered upon the floor at the feet of the emperor; and the courtiers,
hastening to pick them up, secured ten hang (15 oz.) of pearls.[171]
The Keh Chi King Yuen, a Chinese encyclopedia, describes a pearl
fishery in the southern part of Kwang-tung province, in the department of
Lien-chau and near the city of Hóhpú. Fishing began in the spring, and was
preceded by conciliating the gods through certain sacrifices, in order that
the weather might be propitious and that no disaster might be suffered
through sharks and other agencies. The five sacrificial animals,—horses,
cattle, sheep, swine, and fowls,—were presented; but ordinarily paper
images of these were economically substituted, as equally acceptable to the
Chinese rulers of destiny. In the details of the diving, the fishery resembled
somewhat that prosecuted about the same period in the Gulf of Manaar. The
diver was let down by a rope, and after collecting the mollusks and placing
them in a basket, he was drawn up at a given signal. Much complaint was
made that the divers would open the mollusks, extract the pearls and
conceal them in the mouth before returning to the surface.
The business became so perilous and the loss so great, that about the
beginning of the sixteenth century, according to the same encyclopedia,
dredges were adopted. These at first were simple rakes; later large dredges
were trailed along between two boats, by means of which great quantities of
shells were gathered. So important was the industry that an officer was
designated by the viceroy of Canton to collect a revenue therefrom. It does
not appear that pearls have been collected in considerable numbers on this
part of the Chinese coast for very many years, probably not since the advent
of Europeans.
Pearls are yet found in the river mussels in all parts of eastern Asia, from
Siberia to the Indian Ocean, and from the Himalayas to the Pacific. It is
represented that they are not from the Unio margaritifera, the common
river-mussel of Europe, but from other species, such as Unio mongolicus,
U. dahuricus, Dipsas plicatus, etc. It is quite impossible to obtain a reliable
estimate of the total number of persons employed, or the output of pearls in
China, but these items are certainly very much larger than the average
Occidental believes.
In the vicinity of Canton the Dipsas plicatus has been used for centuries
by the Chinese in the production of artificial pearls, this industry giving
employment to thousands of persons.[172]

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The pearl-mussel fishery is of importance in Manchuria, where it has
been carried on for hundreds of years, not only by the citizens, but by the
military department on account of the government, and especially in the
streams which flow into the Songari, a tributary of the Amur. Jacinth relates
that in case of a deficit, the officers and subalterns were punished by a
deduction from their pay, and also by corporal chastisement.[173] Witsen
speaks of the pearls from the River Gan, a tributary of the Amur, and also
from the islands of the Amur, the boundary river of Manchuria. Pearl
fisheries were established at these places by the Russians nearly two
centuries ago.[174]
Pearls become finer and more plentiful the further we penetrate into
Manchuria; and they are numerous in the lake of Heikow or Hing-chou-
men, “Black Lake” or “Gate of Precious Gems,” where they have long been
exploited for the account of the emperor of China.
The occurrence of pearls in many parts of Asiatic Russia was noted by
Von Hessling. In northern Siberia, according to Witsen, writing in 1705,[175]
pearls were found in the waters about the town of Mangasea on the
Turuchan; and Von Middendorf notes that they were found in the Tunguska
River, which flows into the Yenisei. Whether, however, they come from the
Unio margaritifera is considered doubtful by Von Middendorf. Witsen
referred to their occurrence in the rivers and streams of Irkutsk and Onon,
and this is confirmed by several writers of more recent times. Pallas says
that the mussels found there are quite large, and speaks of the Ilim, which
flows into the Angara, as another river where they occur.
Ancient books relating to Japan repeatedly allude to the occurrence of
pearls on the coasts of that country. They are mentioned in the Nihonki, of
the eighth century, the oldest Japanese history.
Tavernier wrote about 1670: “It is possible that of those who have written
before me concerning pearls, none have recorded that some years back a
fishery was discovered in a certain part of the coasts of Japan, and I have
seen some of the pearls which the Dutch brought from thence. They were of
very beautiful water, and some of them of large size, but all baroques. The
Japanese do not esteem pearls. If they cared about them it is possible that by
their means some banks might be discovered where finer ones would be
obtained.”[176]

Page 195

In 1727, Kaempfer wrote that pearls, called by the Japanese kainotamma
or shell jewels, were found in oysters and other mollusks almost
everywhere about Saikokf. Every person was at liberty to fish for them.
Formerly the natives had little or no value for them, till they learned of their
estimation by the Chinese, who were ready to pay good prices for them,
their women being very proud of wearing necklaces and other ornaments of
pearls. “The largest and finest pearls are found in the small sort of oysters,
called akoja, which is not unlike the Persian pearl-oyster. These are found
only in the seas about Satzuma and in the Gulf of Omura (Kiusiu). Some of
the pearls weigh from four to five candareens[177] and these are sold for a
hundred kobans each.[178] The inhabitants of the Loochoo Islands buy most
of those about Satzuma, since they trade to that province. Those found on
the Gulf of Omura are sold chiefly to the Chinese and Tunquinese, and it is
computed that they buy for about 3000 taels[179] a year. This great profit
occasioned the strict orders, which were made not long ago by the princes
both of Satzuma and Omura, that for the future there should be no more of
these oysters sold in the market with other oysters, as had been done
formerly.”[180]
Kaempfer also noted that the Japanese obtained pearls from the yellow
snail shell and from the taira gai (Placuna) in the Gulf of Arima, and
especially from the awabi or abalone (Haliotis). This mollusk was much
sought after for food, being taken in large quantities by the fishermen’s
wives, “they being the best divers of the country.”[181]
Of the several species of pearl-oysters which occur in the coastal waters
of Japan, the only one of importance at present is the Margaritifera
martensi. While this occurs in very many localities, it is most numerous
among the southern islands, where some fine pearls have been secured. The
fishery for this species was quite extensive thirty or forty years ago, and the
reefs were largely depleted. For nearly a score of years it has been used in
growing culture pearls, an account of which is given on pages 292, 293.
A few pearls are obtained from several other bivalve mollusks in Japan.
Among the collections of the present writers are pearls from Margaritifera
martensi, collected at Bay Agu; from M. panasisæ, about the Liu-kiu
Islands; from Pecten yezocusis, in Sokhaido; from Mytilus crasitesta, in the
Inland Sea, and from North Japan, and from a species of Dipsas found in
Lake Biwa.

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While the pearl fisheries of Japan are not of great importance in any
single locality, the distribution of the reefs is so extensive that the aggregate
yield is considerable.
The awabi or ear-shell (Haliotis gigantea), found on the coast of Japan,
Korea, etc., yields many pearly forms. This species is much smaller than the
California abalones. It has a fairly smooth, nacreous surface, but its value is
depreciated by the great size of the marginal perforations, which render
useless for commercial purposes all of the shell external to the line of
perforations. While its opalescent tints make it desirable for manufacturing
into certain styles of buttons and buckles, its principal use is for inlaying
work or marquetry, for which it is especially adapted, owing to its fineness
of texture and beauty of coloring even when reduced to thin sheets.

FISHING FOR THE AWABI (ABALONE) SHELLS AT
WADA-NO-HARA, JAPAN

Probably the most interesting of the abalone fisheries is that on the shores
of Quelpaerd Island, about sixty miles south of the Korean coast, which is
prosecuted largely by the women. Dressed only in a scanty garment, these
women swim out to the fishing grounds, distant several hundred yards in
some cases, carrying with them a stout knife and a small sack suspended
from a gourd. On reaching the reefs, they dive to the bottom—sometimes to
a depth of six or eight fathoms—and by means of the knife, remove the
abalones from the bottom and place them in the sack. They may remain out
an hour, diving repeatedly until the sack is filled, when they swim back to

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the shore. Pearls are found only rarely; in one lot of one hundred shells,
only five were found bearing pearls; two with three pearls each, two with
two pearls each, and one with a single pearl. The flesh of this mollusk after
it has been cleaned and dried, is quite popular as an article of diet. Although
white when fresh, the color changes to a dark red. The pieces of dried flesh,
in the form of flat reddish disks four or five inches in diameter, are fastened
on slender sticks—about ten to each stick—and displayed in the grocery
shops in Seul and other cities.
In the Gulf of Siam on the Asiatic coast, pearls are obtained from a small
oyster with a thin shell, presumably a variety of the Lingah oyster. The beds
have not yet been thoroughly exploited, as the Siamese do not especially
value pearls, attributing some superstitious sentiments of ill luck to them.
However, from time to time Chinese traders have bought them from the
Malay divers and sold them at great profit in the Singapore market. The
known beds occur chiefly in the northern part of the gulf, on the west coast,
and extend in a narrow belt for a distance of about one hundred miles. The
fishing is prosecuted by nude divers in shallow water. A recent letter from
Dr. K. Van Dort, a mining engineer of Bangkok, Siam, states that in 1906 in
six weeks, with the aid of half a dozen divers he was able to collect 720
grains’ weight of pearls, mostly small ones, but including one of 20 grains,
one of 14 grains, two of 12 grains each, and seven over 9 grains in weight.
He reports that the total value of the large ones in Bangkok was $1500, but
the small ones could not be sold to any advantage, as they are little prized
by the Siamese. The shells are of no commercial value, as they are too thin
for industrial use other than for inlaid work. Some fine old specimens of
marquetry in which these shells were used exist in the Buddhist temples at
Bangkok. This art of inlaying is almost lost among the Siamese, and there is
said to be only one man in the king’s palace who can lay any claims to
proficiency in working mother-of-pearl shell.

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VII

PEARLS FROM THE AFRICAN COASTS

Page 199

VII
EAST AFRICAN PEARL FISHERIES

The Islanders with fleecy curls,
Whose homes are compass’d by the Arabian waves;
By whom those shells which breed the orient pearls
Are dived and fish’d for in their green sea caves.

Tasso, Jerusalem Delivered.

T
he principal pearl fisheries of the coasts of Africa are those
prosecuted in the Red Sea, between this continent and Asia. These
have already been described in the preceding chapter, among the
Asiatic fisheries; for, although situated between the two
continents, they are prosecuted largely by Arabs rather than by natives of
the western shores of the sea.
Other than those in the Red Sea, the only pearl resources in Africa which
have received attention are on the eastern coast, south of the Gulf of Aden.
Little information exists as to the origin of these fisheries. In a paper
published by the Lisbon Geographical Society, January, 1903, Señor Ivens
Ferranz states that, according to tradition, in remote times the Ibo
Archipelago, on the northeast coast of Portuguese East Africa, was
inhabited by a Semitic colony, which located there to fish for pearls, and
these were carried through the Red Sea to King Solomon. He adds that
there is little doubt that, after the great emigration which started from the
Persian Gulf in 982 and founded Zanzibar, Kilwa, and Sofala on this coast,
some Arabs engaged in fishing for pearls about the islands near Sofala.
In 1609 Joao dos Santos wrote that on the sandy sea bottom about the
Bazaruto Islands, which are about 150 miles south of Sofala, there were
many large oysters which bore pearls, and the natives fished for them by
diving in practically the same manner as in the Persian Gulf.[182]

Page 200

In a personal memorandum, Sir Robert Edgcumbe states that in the very
early times of Portuguese exploitation on the eastern coast of Africa, pearl
fishing was carried on in these waters. For a long period the tenure of power
exerted by the Portuguese was of a feeble character; they practically
occupied no position of importance on the mainland, but seized upon
stations on the islands which offered decent harbors. Thus their chief
settlements, such as Mozambique and Ibo, were on islands lying off the
coast, and until recent years they made no serious attempt to occupy the
mainland.
Arabs and Banyans carried on the commercial traffic of the country, as
they still do, and they were more truly the masters of this coast than were
the Portuguese, who were little more than nominal rulers. Trading to and
from India in their small dhows, the Arabs and Banyans had full knowledge
of the value of pearls, and undoubtedly secured all that were obtainable. But
they observed no restrictions, and without doubt—for a time, at any rate—
greatly impaired the productive power of the fisheries.
The principal pearl reefs of East Africa, so far as known at present,
extend along the coast of the German East African territory from the
Province of Uzaramo to the Rovuma River, the southern limit of that
territory, and also into Portuguese East Africa as far south as Pemba Bay, a
total distance of about 300 miles. Along much of this coast, there are islands
lying from one to two miles off shore, and between these islands are
barriers of reefs, which create a series of lagoons. In these lagoons,
protected by the islands and the reefs from the influence of the surf formed
by the Indian monsoons, there are large patches of coral rock and groups of
living coral, which form excellent attachments for the pearl-oysters.
It is only recently that serious attention has been paid to these pearl
resources, although year by year a considerable number of pearls have been
collected by the natives and sold to Arabs and Banyans, who have sent them
chiefly to India by way of Zanzibar. The natives of these parts are not very
expert in diving, and they collect the oysters principally by wading out as
far as they can at low tide. They do not wait for the mollusks to attain a
proper age, and as a result they find few pearls of large size. Many parcels
of pearls fished in this very elementary way pass through the custom-house,
where they are subject to a small duty for export, and others are smuggled
out of the country. Quantities of seed-pearls are sent to India, where they

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are used principally as a medicine and in cosmetics; and occasionally there
are rumors that some choice pearls have been discovered.
In the German territory a concession of the fisheries was granted a few
years ago to Dr. Aurel Schulz; and, although we are not in position to say
what success he has met with, it is reported that he has secured a
considerable number of pearls under four grains in weight, of fair shape and
quality and of good marketable value.
A concession of the pearl fishery on the Portuguese coast north of Ibo has
been granted to the East African Pearl Company. For this company an
examination of the resources is now being made by Mr. James J. Simpson,
acting under direction of Prof. W. A. Herdman, of the Liverpool University,
the technical advisor of the Ceylon Company of Pearl Fishers.
At least four species of pearl-bearing mollusks exist here; these are
Margaritifera vulgaris, M. margaritifera, Pinna nobilis, and a species of
Perna, named in the order of their importance. A preliminary report of Mr.
Simpson (supplied through the courtesy of Sir Robert Edgcumbe), states
that among the Ibo Islands about one half of the bottom is sandy and the
other half is covered with detached pieces of coral rock, groups of living
corals, masses of nullipore, and expanses of fixed seaweed. On all of these
in the shoal waters, there is such an abundance of pearl-oysters (M.
vulgaris) that a single diver, by simply descending and bringing up a few in
his hands each time, can secure about 200 in fifteen minutes. Oysters also
occur singly on the sandy bottom, but not so abundantly. Within the three-
year-old oysters there are many seed-pearls. It is evident that there has been
an extensive removal of large oysters in recent years and that large pearls
were then found; but the depredations of the natives now prevent the
mollusks from attaining an age and size which render them useful as pearl-
bearers.
Said Mr. Simpson in his report: “The women here play great havoc on
the reefs by going out daily and collecting the pearl-oysters at low tide. All
along the coast from Muliga Point to Arimba the shores are covered with
shells. At one place we came across a heap of freshly-opened oysters which
consisted of thirty or forty thousand at the lowest estimate; while an older
heap contained between forty to sixty millions. Four women who were
fishing on the reefs while we were there had over two thousand oysters in
their baskets. Thus it is evident that immense quantities are annually

Page 202

destroyed. And the worst feature is that out of those destroyed, not one per
cent. were over two years old.”
It is the intention of the East African Pearl Company, as soon as the
investigation of the resources is completed, to police the fishing grounds so
as to put an end to the removal of immature oysters, which yield only seed-
pearls, and to permit them to attain maturity. In addition to this, it is their
purpose to utilize the extensive beds of oysters lying in comparatively deep
water, which are now inaccessible to the natives owing to their lack of
diving skill.
Sir Robert Edgcumbe writes that it is impossible to say more at present
than that these fisheries at one time bore a high repute, and that the oysters
have continued to exist in multitudes though fished by the natives in the
immature state; and there is every indication that if properly policed and
worked in a scientific way these fisheries should once again become of
much importance. The fact that the pearl-bearing oysters are found there in
large quantities, notwithstanding that they have been poached without
restriction by the natives, indicates that only proper management and
policing are necessary to make them valuable and productive.
On the lower coast of Portuguese East Africa, pearl fishing has been of
some local importance. The reefs are most extensive about the Bazaruto
Islands, previously referred to as about 150 miles south of Sofala. In 1888,
when famine prevailed on this coast, the inhabitants of this archipelago, of
both sexes and of all ages, fished for the large pearl-oysters (known locally
as mapalo), selling their catch at Chiloane to Asiatic traders, who gave them
a handful of rice for a large basket of the mollusks. It was estimated that
during two months of that year, pearls to the value of eighty contos
($83,500) were taken.[183] In 1889 three British subjects attempted to renew
the fishery by using dredges, but without success, owing, it is said, to the
great weight of the implements.
The Kafirs of Bazaruto continue to fish irregularly, but their catch is not
of importance. These pearls are carried by traders to Zanzibar, Muscat, and
Bombay. The American consul writes that some years ago the Portuguese
government granted a concession to a company of American fishermen to
exploit the Bazaruto reefs, but the attempt to work the concession failed
through “bad management, lack of funds, heavy expenses, and political

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difficulties,” a combination apparently sufficient to wreck a similar attempt
in the most favorable locality.
The American consul at Tamatave states that in 1907 the government of
Madagascar awarded two grants for pearl fisheries, covering the entire
western coast, a distance of one thousand miles, excepting two hundred
miles, for which two grants were given in 1906. Apparently no effort was
made to develop the earlier grants; the later ones may be operated, perhaps
jointly. These concessions are personal, and may not be sold or transferred
without the governor-general’s consent. The use of divers, machinery,
dredges, and other apparatus, and the building of necessary stations are
allowed, if there be no interference with navigation, fishing, or coast travel.
An annual tax is to be paid, with a stated increase each year, and revised
according to the success of the enterprise. A report must be sent yearly to
the governor-general. The grants may be revoked if work is not begun
within a stated period; if the work is needlessly abandoned during one year,
or if the tax is not paid. Whenever the interests of the colony or of the
public service require it, the privilege may be withdrawn without indemnity.

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VIII

EUROPEAN PEARL FISHERIES

THE BRITISH ISLES, THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE

Page 205

VIII
PEARL FISHERIES OF THE BRITISH ISLES

And Britain’s ancient shores great pearls produce.

Marbodus (circa 1070).

T
he occurrence of pearls in the British Isles was known two
thousand years ago, and frequent references to them were made in
Roman writings of the first and second centuries of the Christian
era.
In his “Lives of the Cæsars,” the biographer Suetonius, after speaking of
the admiration which Julius Cæsar had for pearls, states that their
occurrence in Britain was an important factor in inducing the first Roman
invasion of that country in 55 B.C.[184] If this be true, the English-speaking
people owe a vast debt of gratitude to these pearls in bringing their Briton
ancestors in contact with Roman civilization; and the influence which they
have thus exercised on the world’s history has been greater than that of the
pearls from all other regions or, we might add, than all other jewels.
The naturalist Pliny (23–79) stated: “In Brittaine it is certain that some do
grow; but they bee small, dim of colour, and nothing orient. For Julius
Cæsar (late Emperor of famous memorie) doth not dissimble, that the
cuirace or breastplate which he dedicated to Venus mother within her
temple was made of English pearles.”[185]
This decoration of pearls was a very proper offering to the goddess who
arose from the sea.
The historian Tacitus noted in “Vita Agricolæ” that the pearls from
Britain were dusky or brownish (subfusca ac liventia).[186] In his
commentaries on the Gospel of Matthew, Origen (185–253), one of the
Greek fathers of the church, described the British pearls as next in value to

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the Indian. Their surface, he stated, was of a golden color, but they were
cloudy and less transparent than those from India.
We have no certain information whether the pearls secured by the
Romans were from the edible mussel (Mytilus edulis) of the sea-coast or
from the Unios of the fresh-water streams. Tacitus’s statement that they
were collected “as the sea throws them up,” seems to locate them on the
sea-coast; but conditions in modern times make it appear more probable
that they were from the fresh waters.
Some of the very early coins of the country indicate that pearls were used
to ornament the imperial diadem of the sovereigns of ancient Britain. In
“Historia ecclesiastica gentis Anglorum,” the celebrated English monk,
Bede (673–735) surnamed “The Venerable,” enumerated among other
things for which Britain was famous in his day, “many sorts of shell-fish,
among which are mussels, in which are often found excellent pearls of all
colours; red, purple, violet and green, but mostly white.”[187] And Marbodus,
Bishop of Rennes, in his lapidarium, written about 1070, refers to the
British pearls as equaling those of Persia and India. About 1094 a present of
an Irish pearl was made to Anselm, Archbishop of Canterbury, by Gilbert,
Bishop of Limerick.[188]
In the twelfth century there was a market for Scotch pearls in Europe, but
they were less valued than those from the Orient.[189] An ordinance of John
II, King of France, in August, 1355, which confirmed the old statutes and
privileges of goldsmiths and jewelers, expressly forbade mounting Scotch
and oriental pearls together in the same article, except in ecclesiastical
jewelry (Orfèvre ne peut mettre en œuvre d’or ne argent parles d’Ecosse
avec parles d’orient se ce n’est en grands joyaulx d’église).[190]
Writing in the sixteenth century, the historian William Camden (1551–
1623) stated in his “Britannia”:

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OLD PRINT SHOWING FOUR METHODS OF
CATCHING PEARL-BEARING MOLLUSKS

Reproduced from “Margaritologia, sive Dissertatio de
Margaritis,” by Malachias Geiger, Monachii, 1637

The British and Irish Pearls are found in a large black Muscle.... They are peculiar to rapid and
stony rivers; and are common in Wales, and in the North of England, and in Scotland, and some parts
of Ireland. In this country they are called by the vulgar Kregin Diliw, i.e. Deluge shells; as if Nature
had not intended the shells for the rivers; but being brought thither by the Universal Deluge, they had
continued there, and so propagated their kind ever since. Those who fish here for Pearls, know partly
by the outside of these Muscles, whether they contain any; for generally such as have them are a little
contracted or distorted from their usual shape. A curious and accomplished Gentleman, lately of these
parts, showed me a valuable Collection of the Pearls of the Conway River in Wales; amongst which I
noted a stool-pearl [button-pearl], weighing seventeen grains, and distinguished on the convex side
with a fair round spot of a Cornelian colour, exactly in the center.[191]
In 1560 “large handsome pearls” were sent from Scotland to Antwerp.[192]
In 1620 a great pearl was found in the Kellie Burn, in Aberdeenshire. This
was carried to King James by the provost, who was rewarded with “twelve
to fourdeen chalder of victuals about Dunfermline, and the Customs of
Merchants’ goods in Aberdeen during his life.” No record appears of the
reward paid to the finder; possibly it was not worth recording.
In 1621 the Privy Council of Scotland issued a proclamation that pearls
found within the realm belonged to the Crown; and conservators of the
pearl fisheries were appointed in several of the counties, including
Aberdeen, Ross, and Sutherland. It was the duty of the conservators, among

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other things, to nominate experts to fish for pearls during July and August,
“when they are at chief perfection.” The conservators and fishermen were
compensated by selling those pearls of ordinary quality, but “the best for
bignesse and colour” were to be remitted to the king. It was reported to the
Privy Council that the conservator in Aberdeenshire did very well in the
first year. “He hath not only taken divers pearls of good value, but hath
found some in waters where none were expected.” The first parliament of
Charles I abolished these privileges.
Robert Sibbald, physician to Charles II, wrote that he had seen a necklace
of Scotch pearls which was valued at two thousand crowns; they were
“larger than peas, perfectly round, and of a brilliant whiteness.”[193]
It is said that Sir Richard Wynne of Gwydir presented to Catherine of
Braganza, queen of Charles II of England, a pearl from the Conway in
Wales, which is said to be even yet retained in the royal crown. In his
“Faerie Queene” (1590), Spenser speaks of the
Conway, which out of his streame doth send
Plenty of pearles to deck his dames withal.

The White Cart River in Scotland, on which the city of Paisley is
situated, was distinguished, according to Camden, “for the largeness and the
fineness of the Pearls that are frequently found hereabouts and three miles
above.”[194] And the pearls from Irton in Cumberland, England, were so
noted at that time that “fair as Irton pearls” became a byword in the north
country. In their history of Westmoreland and Cumberland,[195] Nicolson and
Burn state that “Mr. Thomas Patrickson, late of How of this county
(Cumberland), having employed divers poor inhabitants to gather these
pearls, obtained such a quantity as he sold to the jewellers in London for
above £800.” But in 1794 Hutchinson[196] stated that none had been seen for
many years past.
Pearl fishing in Ireland was of some consequence in the seventeenth
century. Speaking of the Slaney River, Solomon Richards, in a description
of Wexford about the year 1656, said: “It ought to precede all the rivers in
Ireland for its pearle fishing, which though not abundant are yet excellent,
for muscles are daily taken out of it about fowre, five and six inches long, in
which are often found pearles, for lustre, magnitude and rotundity not
inferior to oriental or any other in the world.”[197] In 1693 Sir Robert

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Redding wrote that there were four rivers in the county of Tyrone in
northern Ireland which abounded in pearl-mussels, all four emptying into
Lough Foyle and thence into the sea. They were also to be found in several
rivers in the adjacent Donegal County. Redding gave an interesting
description of the fishery:
In the warm months before harvest is ripe, whilst the rivers are low and clear, the poor people go
into the water and take them up, some with their toes, some with wooden tongs, and some by putting
a sharpened stick into the opening of the shell; and although by common estimate not above one shell
in a hundred may have a pearl, and of these pearls not above one in a hundred be tolerably clear, yet a
vast number of fair merchantable pearls, and too good for the apothecary, are offered to sale by those
people every summer assize. Some gentlemen of the country make good advantage thereof, and I
myself, whilst there, saw a pearl bought for £2, 10s. that weighed 36 carats, and was valued at £40,
and had it been as clear as some others produced therewith it would certainly have been very
valuable. Everybody abounds with stories of the good pennyworths of the country, but I will add but
one more. A miller took a pearl, which he sold for £4, 10s. to a man that sold it for £10 to another,
who sold it to the late Lady Glenanly for £30, with whom I saw it in a necklace; she refused £80 for
it from the late Duchess of Ormond.
The young muscles never have any pearl in them. The shells that have the best pearls are wrinkled,
twisted, or bunched, and not smooth and equal, as those that have none. And the crafty fellows will
guess so well by the shell, that though you watch them never so carefully, they will open such shells
under the water, and put the pearls in their mouths, or otherwise conceal them. Yet sometimes when
they have been taking up shells, and believing by such signs as I have mentioned, that they were sure
of good purchase, and refused good sums for their shares, they found no pearl at all in them. Upon
discourse with an old man that had been long at this trade, he advised me to seek not only when the
waters were low, but on a dusky, gloomy day also, lest, said he, the fish see you, for then he will shed
his pearl in the sand; of which I believe no more than that some muscles have voided their pearls, and
such are often found in the sands.[198]

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MADAME DUCHESSE DAUGHTER OF
NORISCHKINE ELIZABETH GENERAL
NÉE (CONSTANTIN) SOBELIEFF
STRAUDMAN FIRST
COUNTESS
BEAUHARNAIS

For several years following 1760, the Scotch pearl fisheries were of
considerable local value. The zoölogist, Thomas Pennant, wrote of them
several times in his “Tour of Scotland.” Referring to the Tay and Isla rivers,
then as now the center of the Scotch pearling, he states: “There has been in
these parts a very great fishery of pearl, got out of the fresh-water muscles.
From the year 1761 to 1764, £10,000 worth were sent to London, and sold
from 10s. to £1 6s. per ounce. I was told that a pearl had been taken there
that weighed 33 grains. But this fishery is at present exhausted, from the
avarice of the undertakers. It once extended as far as Loch Tay.”[199] And he
adds later that, some years preceding, a pearl fishery was prosecuted in
Loch Dochart with great success and the pearls were esteemed the fairest
and largest of any.
From 1770 to 1860 the pearl resources of Scotland remained almost
dormant, and Scotch pearls were rarely met with in the markets. In 1861 a
German merchant, who was acquainted with the beauty of these gems,
traveled through the districts of Tay, Doon and Don, obtaining a great
number which the poor people kept for their own pleasure, not esteeming
them of any market value, and interested the fishermen in searching for the
mussels. The seemingly high prices which he paid and the abundance of the
pearls sent hundreds of persons to the rivers and small brooks. Those who

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were otherwise employed during the day devoted hours of the long summer
nights to diligent search after the coveted shells; while boys and old
persons, who were without regular avocations, waded day after day where
there was a probability of reward. In the course of a short time pearls, good,
bad and indifferent, reached the originator of the movement at Edinburgh,
from Ayrshire, from Perthshire, and from the Highland regions far beyond
the Grampians. He was soon the possessor of a collection which, for
richness and variety, had seldom been surpassed. A trade in these gems was
developed, the patronage of royalty was obtained, and once more Scotch
pearls became fashionable, and their vogue was enhanced by the fondness
which Queen Victoria entertained for them.
In addition to the rivers named, pearls were found in the Forth, the Teith,
the Ythan, and the Spey in eastern Scotland. The summer of 1862 was most
favorable for pearling, owing to the dryness of the season and the low
water, and unusually large quantities of pearls were found, the prices
ranging ordinarily from 10s. to £2 6s. Queen Victoria is said to have
purchased one for forty guineas; others were bought by Empress Eugénie
and by the Duchess of Hamilton. A necklace of them was sold for £350 in
1863.[200] The value of the entire catch in Scotland in 1864 was estimated at
£12,000 to the fishermen, the yield being unusually large in that season
owing to the unprecedented drought which permitted access to the deep
beds of the rivers. In some of the streams the resources were quickly
depleted, but in others the fisheries yielded profitable returns for many
years. While most of the pearls were small, some of them were choice and
of considerable individual value, ranging from £5 to £150, and £500 is said
to have been paid for one fine specimen.
The pearl-mussel of the British Isles (Unio margaritifera) has a thick,
coarse and unsightly shell, from 3 to 7 inches in width and 1½ to 2½ inches
in length from the umbo to the lip. The rough exterior is dark brown, and it
is sometimes twisted, distorted and barnacled.
It generally lies scattered and detached over the pebbly bottoms, but it
also exists in reefs or beds which are sometimes of considerable extent.
These occur usually where a stretch of water is still and deep, and
oftentimes where the depth places the mussels beyond the reach of the
fishermen. Apart from the pearls it contains, the mussel is of no economic

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value except that in some localities the mollusk is used for bait in cod-
fishing.
In recent years the pearl-mussel has been numerous in several of the
rivers of Scotland, such as the Tay, Earn, and Teith in Perthshire; the Dee,
the Don, and the Ythan in Aberdeenshire; the Spey and Findhorn in
Inverness-shire, and also the classic Doon of Burns, the Nith, the Annan and
others in southern Scotland; however, it is rare in the Clyde and the Tweed.
The Teith has long been famed for pearl-bearing, though like other rivers
it has become nearly fished out. The Tay produces many pearls, yet as a rule
they are not of the best class. Some of its tributaries, as the Tummel and the
Isla, also bear pearls; those in the Isla are usually fine and rank higher than
those from the Tay. The Earn is also famous for the fine quality of its pearls,
but the whole river was robbed of its wealth some years ago by a body of
professional fishermen, and it has not yet recovered from the raid; few
pearls now exist there save in the deeper pools, where doubtless may still be
hid “full many a gem of purest ray serene.”
In Ireland pearls have been found principally in the rivers of counties
Kerry, Donegal, Tyrone, Antrum, etc. In an article in “The Field,”
December 10, 1864, Mr. F. T. Buckland stated that they abound near
Oughterard, and that a man called “Jemmy the Pearl-catcher,” who lived
there, told him that he knew when a mussel had a pearl in it even without
opening the shell, because “she [the mussel] sits upright with her mouth in
the mud, and her back is crooked,” that is, corrugated like a ram’s horn.
Pearls are yet found in several localities in the Emerald Isle, notably in the
river Bann in the northeastern part and in the beautiful Connemara district
in western Ireland. In 1892 the Bann yielded one of the choicest pearls that
ever came from Ireland. Within the last twelve months Lady Dudley, wife
of the Viceroy of Ireland, presented to Queen Alexandra a number of pearls
from the Connemara. These were mounted in a green enameled brooch, and
excited so much admiration that an active demand for similar gems quickly
developed in County Galway.
Mr. D. MacGregor, a well-known jeweler of Perth, to whom we are
indebted for much information relative to pearls in Scotland, states that no
attention whatever is given to conserving the mussel; on the contrary, the
waters are unscrupulously despoiled by the greedy pearl fisherman who
destroys all that he finds, since, by chance, they may yield the coveted gem.

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Immense numbers are thus wantonly destroyed, which if allowed to grow
and propagate would be more likely to contribute to the pearl yield, as it is
well known that it is the aged mussels in which a pearl is most likely to be
found. There is no close time, and so extensive have been the raids upon the
mussels in recent years that they have been rapidly exterminated in places
accessible to the fishermen; and should the spoliation continue and extend
to the deep waters, the pearl-mussel may soon become extinct.
Pearl fishing is not prosecuted throughout the year, as it can be carried on
only in the dry season when the waters are low. There are a number of
professional fishermen who search in their favorite streams, and sometimes
very profitably, as much as £200 having been gained in a single season by
one fisherman. One of the most noted of these was “Pearl Johnnie,” who a
few years ago hailed from Compar-Angus, in Perthshire, and who styled
himself “Pearl Fisher to the Prince of Wales,” by reason of some dealings
he once had with his Royal Highness. He was very successful in his
experience of more than thirty years. There is little mystery in the search;
skill does not always avail, and men, women and children are rewarded or
disappointed indiscriminately. The bed of the stream is searched until the
patches of mussels are discovered, and this is usually the most tedious part
of the work. These may be in very shoal water, where a small boy has only
to wade with water above his knees and pick up the mussels by stooping;
but more frequently the water covers a man’s hips, and at times he is
immersed almost to the shoulders.
The equipment of a pearl fisherman is simple. If he wades, he commonly
wears long boots with tops reaching to his breast. Provided with a pole five
or six feet long having a cleft at the lower end, and with a tube several
inches in diameter with the lower end closed by a glass, he invades the
home of the pearl-mussel. Thrusting the tube or water glass beneath the
surface, he scans the bed of the stream, and when a mussel is sighted, the
cleft pole is brought into use and it is picked up by means of these primitive
tongs. Owing to the close resemblance which the pearl-mussel bears to the
stones in the riverbed, good eyesight is required to avoid overlooking it. A
bag by the fisher’s side receives the catch; and when this is well filled, he
goes to the bank of the stream and opens his lottery, in the great majority of
cases to find that he has drawn a blank.

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A boat is seldom used, simply because it is not available, but in the tidal
waters it is indispensable. The “box” is a risky device for fishing in the
deeper waters. It is a small contrivance, somewhat like the ancient British
coracle, in which the fisherman sits or lies over on his chest; venturing out
in the deeper parts which can not be waded, he carefully peers through the
tube and draws up his find with the long cleft stick. This is a tiresome
method, but some places can not be readily fished in any other manner.
In Aberdeenshire, Perthshire, etc., there are a few men who regularly
spend the season “at the pearls.” The knowing ones dispose of their best
finds to wealthy residents or to strangers and tourists who frequent the
vicinity. In addition to these experienced fishermen, many of the idlers and
unemployed about the riverside towns, and also the farm servants in the
country, search the waters in their neighborhood in the hope of picking up
some gems. But very often it is severe and disappointing labor, for the
pearl-seeker may travel far and endure privation and hardships for days, and
yet, after destroying hundreds and even thousands of mussels, he may be
rewarded with only a little almost worthless dross; but again and again he
returns to the elusive game, inspired by the “hope which springs eternal in
the human breast.”

The Valley of the Tay

Page 215

The River Earn

Photographs by The Raeburn Portrait Studio, Perth, Scotland

SCOTCH PEARL RIVERS

The British pearls are in great variety of colors, but most of them are
practically valueless on account of the absence of orient or luster; for one
possessing the white pearly luster, fifty may be found of a dull color and
devoid of value. Many of these opaque pearls are dark, lusterless brown,
and handfuls of them sell for only a few shillings. A large percentage are of
a grayish or milky color, or of a bluish white tinge; these seldom attain
much value unless aided by excellence of shape and purity of skin. A few
are of a dark, fiery tint and of great luster. Sometimes the pearl is of a
beautiful pink tint, sometimes of a light violet, or other exquisite shade. The
fine pink ones are very rare and are highly prized. The best are those having
the sweet, pure white light which constitutes the inimitable loveliness of a
pearl; but few of them are found even in the most favorable seasons, and
usually these are from the streams in the northeastern counties and some of
the streams in the southwest. Very few combine the qualities of perfection
in shape and luster; and the product of many seasons might be examined in
vain to furnish enough pearls to make a well-matched necklace of gems
weighing from five to ten grains each. But occasionally beautiful specimens
are discovered, weighing fifteen or twenty grains or more. One found in
Aberdeenshire a few years ago, perfect in shape and luster, weighed twenty-

Page 216

five grains, and sold at first hand for £50. Another one, found at the
confluence of the Almond and the Tay in 1865, weighed thirty grains.
While most of these pearls are sold to jewelers in Edinburgh, Aberdeen,
Inverness, Perth, and other towns, many of the finest specimens have gone
into the possession of prominent Scotch and English families, who have a
fancy for collecting them. Queen Victoria possessed a fine collection of
Scotch pearls, choice specimens of many years’ search, obtained almost
exclusively from the Aberdeenshire waters which murmur round her
beautiful Highland home. In 1907, a Scotch pearl was sold in Perth for the
sum of £80; this was of a good luster with a bluish tint, it was spherical,
measured seven sixteenths of an inch in diameter, and weighed twenty-one
grains.
The falling off in the yield of pearls in some streams is credited to a
certain extent to the building of bridges and the consequent abandonment of
fords. This is based on the theory that injury to the mollusk has something
to do with the production of pearls, and that they are to be found more
plentiful about fords and places where cattle drink. The theory is beautifully
stated by the lamented Hugh Miller: “I found occasion to conclude that the
Unio of our river-fords secretes pearls so much more frequently than the
Unionidae and Anadonta of our still pools and lakes, not from any specific
peculiarity in the constitution of the creature, but from the effects of the
habitat which it chooses. It receives in the fords and shallows of a rapid
river many a rough blow from the sticks and pebbles carried down in time
of flood, and occasionally from the feet of men and animals that cross the
stream during droughts, and the blows induce the morbid secretions, of
which pearls are the result. There seems to exist no inherent cause why
Anadon cygnea, with its beautiful silvery nacre—as bright often, and
always more delicate, than that of Unio margaritiferus—should not be
equally productive of pearls; but secure from violence in its still pools and
lakes, and unexposed to the circumstances that provoke abnormal
secretions, it does not produce a single pearl for every hundred that are
ripened into value and beauty by the exposed, current-tossed Unionidae of
our rapid mountain rivers. Would that hardship and suffering bore always in
a creature of a greatly higher family similar results, and that the hard buffets
dealt him by fortune in the rough stream of life could be transmitted, by
some blessed internal pre-disposition of his nature, into pearls of great
price.”[201]

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The small blue mussel (Mytilus edulis) of the British seas yields opaque
pearls of a deep blue color, but most of them are more or less white in some
part. Sometimes a shell is found in which a blue pearl will be adhering to
the blue lip of the shell while a dull white one adheres to the white portion
of the shell. These pearls are commonly flattened on one side, doubtless
where they have been adjacent to the shell. None of them is of more than
very slight value.
Probably the principal fishery for the salt-water mussel pearls is that in
the estuary of the Conway in Wales. These are mostly quite small and well
answer the designation of seed-pearls, although a few are of fair size. In
color most of them range from dirty white to the dusky or brownish tint
noted by Tacitus eighteen centuries ago, but a few are of a pure silvery tint.
In some seasons London dealers have agents at Conway for purchasing
these pearls. The price is usually from eight to thirty shillings per ounce.

Page 218

THE CONTINENT OF EUROPE
Après l’esprit de discernement, ce qu’il y a au monde de plus rare, ce sont les diamants et les
perles.
La Bruyère, Les caractères.

Pearls occur in species of mussels found in the streams and lakes of
Europe, in some of which the fisheries have been of considerable local
interest. It appears that these resources were exploited by the Romans, then
by the Goths and the Lombards, and later the natives continued to draw
forth the treasures which lay hidden about their homes. These pearls have
attracted attention up to the present time; and while they do not compare
with those of the seas, either in quality or in aggregate value, yet they are
prized on account of their intrinsic worth as well as because they are a
product of the fatherland. In the densely populated valleys, the rivers are so
polluted by refuse and sewage that the mollusks have been greatly depleted;
but in the streams of clear, cool water, draining the mountain regions of
France, Germany, Austria, and also in the rivers of Norway, Sweden,
Russia, etc., the fisheries are not unimportant.
The most celebrated of the pearl fisheries in France are those of the
Vologne, a small river in the extreme eastern part of the country, in the
department of Vosges. Its sources are in Lake Longmere in the Vosges
mountains on the Alsace frontier, and it flows into the Moselle at Jarmenil,
between Remiremont and Épinal. While the pearl-mussel occurs to some
extent in nearly the whole length of this river, and, indeed, is to be met with
in the wild brooks and forest streams of nearly all the mountainous parts of
France, it is most abundant in the vicinity of Bruyères, where the Vologne
receives the waters of the Neuré. These resources were described in 1845
by Ernest Puton,[202] and in 1869 by D. A. Godron;[203] to whom—and
especially to Godron—we are indebted for much of our information.
The fisheries of the Vologne have been celebrated for nearly four
centuries. Writing in 1530, Volcyr stated: “In the river Vologne between
Arche and Bruyères, near the ancient castle of Perle, beautiful pearls are
found. In the opinion of jewelers and artists they closely resemble the
oriental.”[204] A few years later Francis Reues wrote: “There is near the

Page 219

Vosges mountains in Lorraine a river fertile in pearls, yet they are not very
brilliant. The strange thing is that the quality which they lack by nature is
supplied by the aid of pigeons, which swallow them and restore them purer
than before.”[205] In a publication of 1609, this little river is represented in
the frontispiece by the figure of a nymph bearing many pearls, while
beneath is the emblem: Vologna margaritifera suas margaritas ostentat.[206]
In his paper above noted, Godron recites several orders issued from 1616
to 1619 by the Duke of Lorraine, who then had jurisdiction over the present
department of Vosges, showing that a high value was attached to these
pearls and that the resources were well looked after. Writing in 1699, Dr.
Martin Lister alluded to the many pearls taken from the rivers about
Lorraine and Sedan. A Paris merchant showed him a fresh-water pearl of 23
grains, valued at £400, and assured him that he had seen some weighing 60
grains each.[207]
In 1779 Durival gave an extensive account[208] of the Vologne fishery. He
records that for sixty years pearls had been abundant, but at the time he
wrote they were very scarce.
Puton states that, in 1806, when taking the baths at Plombières in the
Vosges, Empress Josephine formed a great liking for the Vologne pearls,
and at her request some of the mussels were sent to stock the ponds at
Malmaison. It does not appear that any favorable result followed this
transplanting.
Owing to the extensive fisheries, the mussels became so scarce that in
1826, when the Duchesse d’Angoulême was visiting in the Vosges, it was
impossible to secure enough pearls to form a bracelet for her. This scarcity
has continued up to the present time; and yet in the aggregate many pearls
have been secured, so that there are few prominent families in the
neighborhood who do not possess some of them. They are especially prized
as bridal presents to Vosges maidens.
While the Vologne pearls are of good form and of much beauty, they do
not equal oriental pearls in luster. The color is commonly milky white, but
some of them have a pink, yellow, red, or greenish tint. In size they rarely
exceed 4 grains. The Nancy museum of natural history possesses one which
weighs 5¼ grains and measures 6½ mm. in diameter.
In western France, according to Bonnemere,[209] the pearl-mussel is
widely diffused, and in the aggregate many pearls are secured therefrom.

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They are somewhat numerous in the river Ille near its union with the
Vilaine at Rennes; though small, these are commonly of good color and
luster. In the department of Morbihan and that of Finistère, many pearls
have been secured, especially in the Steir, the Odet, and in the Stang-Alla
near Quimper. Small pearls, frequently of some value, are found in the
Menech near the town of Lesneven, a few miles northeast of Brest, the great
naval port of France.

GREAT CAMEO PEARL,
ACTUAL SIZE 22 INCHES

Sold at auction in Amsterdam
in 1776 for 180,000 florins.
Note great baroque pearl
forming body of the swan at
the base, diameter 1.37 inches

The Unio sinuatus (pictorum), the mulette of the artists, which has a
shorter and smaller shell than the pearl-mussel, has also yielded many small
pearls of good quality, as well as shells for manufacturing purposes. This
species has been regularly exploited in the Adour, in the Charente, in the
Gironde and its tributaries—the Garonne and the Dordogne and their
affluents, and in some other streams in western France.
There is a pearl fishery in the Charente River near the western coast of
France, and likewise in the Seugne, a small tributary entering it from the
south. The mussel is known locally under the name of palourde. In an
account of this fishery,[210] Daniel Bellet states that in the Seugne, where the
water is shallow and clear, the mussel is secured by entering the pointed end
of a wooden staff or stick between the valves of the open shell as the

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mollusk lies feeding on the bottom; as the shell is immediately closed
tightly upon the intruding stick, it is easily removed from the water.
In the deeper waters of the Charente, the fishery is prosecuted on a larger
scale. Until recently, the palourdes were caught by means of a dredge towed
by a small boat, which was raised from time to time and the catch removed.
Ten or fifteen years ago the scaphander or diving apparatus was introduced,
requiring seven men for its operation, and by its use large catches have been
made. The mussels are taken to the bank and there boiled for a time to cause
the shells to open, so that the contents may be easily removed.
The shells are examined one by one to find any pearls that may adhere
thereto, and then the flesh of the mollusk is crushed between the fingers to
locate pearls contained in the mass; this is done largely by children,
working under competent supervision. Many pearls of fairly good size and
luster are obtained. The flesh of this mollusk is edible and well-liked in
southwestern France; and the shells are also of value in the manufacture of
buttons and similar objects.
In Germany the pearl fisheries are most important in streams of the
southern districts, in Bavaria, Saxony, and Silesia. The pearl-mussel in these
waters is not so abundant as formerly; yet, owing to the care which has been
given to these resources, it is probably as numerous here as in any other part
of the continent. The mussel rarely occurs singly, generally in small beds or
banks contiguous to each other, and in some favorable regions these are
extensive.
The pearl fisheries of Bavaria have been prominent since the sixteenth
century. They exist principally in the districts of Upper Franconia
(Oberfranken) and Upper Palatinate (Oberpfalz), the several tributaries of
the Danube between Ratisbon and Passau, and in those tributaries of the
Main and the Saale which rise in the Bavarian mountains, such as the
Oelsnitz, the Lamnitz, Schwesnitz, Grünebach, Vils, and the Perlbach; also
in the district of Lower Bavaria, where in nine districts alone there are one
hundred pearl-bearing streams and lakes, of which the most important are
the Regen, the Isar, and the Ilz.[211]
Early in the sixteenth century, the river Ilz had the reputation of yielding
the choicest pearls in Lower Bavaria. The right to them was reserved to the
bishop of Passau, and a decree was made in 1579 that persons convicted of
poaching on these reserves should be hanged.[212] Since that time there have

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been few decades in which the gems have not been found in the woodland
brooks and mountain streams that flow through the ravines and past quaint,
interesting castles of the wonderful Bavarian highlands. Most of the
prominent families in this beautiful region have collections of native pearls,
and there is still some trade in them in picturesque Passau, at the junction of
the Danube, the Ilz and the Inn.
Tavernier wrote about 1670: “As for the pearls of Scotland, and those
which are found in the rivers of Bavaria, although necklaces are made of
them which are worth up to 1000 écus (£225) and beyond, they cannot enter
into comparison with those of the East and West Indies.”[213]
The official returns for the Bavarian fisheries, dating from the latter part
of the sixteenth century, were examined by Von Hessling in 1858. He noted
many gaps in the statements of the yearly returns, partly on account of the
loss of the records and partly because the pearls were delivered directly into
the hands of the princes. The results of the first fisheries are recorded in the
district of Hals for the years 1581–99, in Viechtach for 1581–83 and 1590–
93, and in Weissenstadt and Zwiesel for 1583. The range of the fisheries
was enlarged through the discovery of new areas during the first half of the
seventeenth century; but this was offset by the bad seasons and by disturbed
conditions during the Thirty Years’ War. From 1650 to 1783 the pearls in
the forest lands of the Palatinate were exploited regularly and
uninterruptedly, with the exception of the district of Wetterfeld and that of
Neunburg vor dem Wald, where they were prosecuted for a few years only.
From 1783 to 1814, they were almost entirely neglected, and the take was
confined to a few streams in Upper Palatinate and in the Bavarian forests.
In the former episcopal principality of Passau, where, according to general
accounts, the waters were rich in pearls, the records were scanty previous to
1786; this was probably owing to the fact that the head gamekeeper was
obliged to transmit the catch of pearls directly to the prince-bishop. The
records for the fisheries in the districts of Rehau and Kulmbach began with
the year 1733.
From these fragmentary returns—making no estimate for the years for
which there were no figures available—Von Hessling found that from 1600
to 1857 there were taken 15,326 pearls of the first class, which were clear
white in color and of good luster; 27,662 pearls of the second class, which
were somewhat deficient in luster, and 251,778 pearls of the third or poorest

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class, or “Sandperlen,” which, though of poor quality, had sufficient
whiteness and luster to be used as ornaments. Had the records been
complete, these figures would probably have been at least fifty per cent.
greater, or a total of about 445,000 pearls in the 257 years. In the last forty-
three years of this period, for which the records are fairly complete, the
annual average was 208 pearls of the first, 395 of the second, and 3091 of
the third class, a total each year of 3694 pearls of all grades. This was
divided among the districts as follows:

ANNUAL AVERAGE

District First class Second class Third class Total
Upper Franconia 13 34 52 99
Upper Palatinate 38 77 207 322
Lower Bavaria 157 284 2832 3273

Total 208 395 3091 3694

Probably the most interesting of the pearl fisheries in Germany are those
prosecuted in the extreme southwestern part of the kingdom of Saxony, in
the picturesque region known as Vogtland. This is not on account of their
extent, for the output rarely exceeds $2000 in value in any season; but
because for nearly three hundred years they have been conducted with the
utmost care and regard for the preservation of the resources. Indeed, a
record exists of practically every pearl obtained for nearly two centuries.
The waters in which the Saxon Vogtland fisheries are prosecuted are the
Elster River, from the health resort of that name to a short distance below
Elsterberg; its tributaries, the Mülhaüser, Freiberger, and Marieneyer
brooks; the Hartmannsgrüner and the Triebel brooks, the Trieb, the
Meschelsgrüner, the Teil, and Loch brooks, and twenty-five or more small
ponds.
For most of the data relative to these fisheries, we are indebted to J. G.
Jahn’s “Die Perlenfischerei im Voigtlande,” Oelsnitz, 1854; to Hinrich
Nitsche’s “Süsswasserperlen, Internationale Fischerei-Ausstellung zu
Berlin,” 1880, and to O. Wohlberedt’s “Nachtrag zur Molluskenfauna des
Königreiches Sachsen,” “Nachrichtsblatt der deutschen
Malakozoologischen Gesellschaft,” Frankfurt-am-Main, 1899, pp. 97–104.

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In the year 1621, the electoral prince, Johann Georg I, reserved the pearl
fishery of the Vogtland in Saxony as a royal privilege, and appointed Moritz
Schmerler as superintendent and fisherman. From that time until the
present, this fishery has remained a royal prerogative; and, remarkable to
state, except at the close of the seventeenth century when the father-in-law
of a Schmerler enjoyed the privilege, all the superintendents of the fishery
—twenty-four persons in number—have been direct descendants of the
second pearler, Abraham Schmerler, who, in 1643, succeeded his brother
Moritz. The present superintendent Julius Schmerler has been in charge
since 1889.
This fishery is conducted in accordance with regulations of the chief
inspector of forests for the district of Auerbach. The present regulations date
from June 15, 1827. In compliance therewith an inspection is made of the
waters each spring to remove all obstructions and debris that would injure
the resources; and, if necessary, entire beds of mussels are removed from
one locality to another which appears more favorable. No mussels are
opened at that time, for the real search for pearls does not begin until the
season is far advanced and the fishermen can wade up to the waist in the
water without discomfort.
Dr. Nitsche states that the whole pearling district is not searched over
every year, but is divided into 313 sections, each one constituting a day’s
work for three fishermen, and rarely are more than twenty or thirty of these
fished in any one year. Thus each section or district is permitted to rest and
recuperate for ten or fifteen years before it is again invaded. Every mussel
is opened carefully by hand, with the aid of a peculiarly constructed iron
instrument. By inserting the edge of this between the nibs of the shell and
turning it at right angles, the valves are opened sufficiently to determine
whether a pearl is contained therein. If none is observed, the instrument is
released and the mussel returned uninjured to the water; but if a pearl is
found within, the shell is forced open and the find removed. In case small
pearls are observed which give promise of growing larger in time, they are
not removed, but the year is marked upon the shell with the opening
implement and the mussel returned to the water. It often happens that good
pearls are later removed from shells marked in this manner.
Complete records exist of the yield of this fishery during each year since
1719, when the Vogtland passed to the electorate of Saxony. The following

Page 225

is a summary of these records arranged in series of twenty years each.

Page 226

DOWAGER CZARINA OF GRAND DUCHESS GRAND DUCHESS MARIE
RUSSIA VLADIMIR PAVLOVNA

Years Clear Half clear Sand Damaged Average per
pearls pearls pearls pearls Total year
No. No. No. No. No. No.
1720–1739 1,809 727 1,201 552 4,289 214
1740–1759 1,412 578 484 281 2,755 138
1760–1779 1,042 272 427 219 1,960 98
1780–1799 1,261 243 357 179 2,040 102
1800–1819 1,603 261 325 203 2,392 120
1820–1839 1,659 340 326 326 2,651 133
1840–1859 1,884 610 387 505 3,386 169
1860–1879 1,618 682 450 514 3,264 163
1880–1899 471 394 86 373 1,324 66
1900–1905 79 161 22 86 348 58

Total in 186
years 12,838 4,268 4,065 3,238 24,409
Average per
year 69 23 22 17 131

In recent years the development of manufacturing industries in Saxony
and the resultant pollution of the water has greatly reduced the abundance
of the mollusks and consequently the output has been much restricted. The
average annual yield in the twenty years ending in 1879 was 163 pearls; in
the twenty years ending in 1899 it was 66 pearls, and in the six years ending

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in 1905 the annual average was 58 pearls. Owing to high water, there was
no fishing in 1888; and with a view to permitting the resources to
recuperate, the fishery was suspended from 1896 to 1899, inclusive.
Omitting these five years, the average yield during each season in the two
decades ending 1899 was 88 pearls.
At the end of each season, the pearls secured are turned over to the
director of forestry for the district of Auerbach; by him they were formerly
sent to the royal cabinet of natural history, or to the royal collection at
Dresden, but since 1830 they have been sent to the royal minister of
finance, by whom they are sold each year. The total proceeds from these
sales now amount to about 55,000 marks.
In former times, according to Dr. Nitsche, it was customary to use these
pearls in making royal ornaments. This was the origin of the famous Elster
necklace, consisting of 177 pearls, now in the art collection in the Grüne
Gewölbe in the palace at Dresden. Another assortment in that collection
consists of nine choice, well-matched pearls, weighing 140 grains. For a
necklace of Saxon pearls, the property of a duchess of Sachsen-Zeitz, the
sum of 40,000 thalers ($28,400) is said to have been refused.
In Prussian Silesia the pearl-mussel is found in the upper tributaries of
the Oder, especially in Bober River from Löwenberg to the sources among
the foot-hills of the beautiful Riesengebirge, in the Lusatian Neisse to
Görlitz, the Queiss above Marklissa, and in the Juppel as far as Weidenau.
The Queiss has been famous for its pearls since the sixteenth century, and
even yet specimens of great beauty are obtained therefrom. As long ago as
1690, Ledel complained of the diminution of the number of mollusks owing
to their wilful destruction by children; and in 1729 the government issued a
rescript in Upper Lusatia (Oberlausitz) recommending the care of the young
mollusks.[214]
Pearls are also found in the White Main a short distance from its source,
in the head waters of the Saale, and in numerous other mountain-draining
streams of middle Germany. Indeed, references could be made to the
discovery of pearls in nearly every stream of Germany at some time during
the last three or four centuries.
The records of pearl fisheries in the province of Hanover were traced by
Von Hessling as far back as the sixteenth century, when they were
prosecuted in the Aller, Ovia or Om, Lua or Low, and in the Seva in the

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district of Lüneburg. During the reign of Christian Ludwig (1641–65) and
in that of George William (1666–1705), pearl fishing was carried on by the
state, and old records of the former district of Bodenteich note the customs
and practices of that period and of earlier times, and the implements
employed. In 1706, for instance, 265 clear and 292 imperfect pearls were
taken by three official fishermen from the Gerdauerbach. Gradually,
however, owing to indifferent management, the brooks yielded less and
less; the government seems to have entirely abandoned supervision of them,
so that, according to Taube’s “Communication,”[215] slight results were
obtained in 1766; indeed, only a few pearls could be shown as curiosities.
[216]

Regarding the condition of the Hanoverian pearl-brooks, especially of
those in the vicinity of Uelzen, Möbius wrote: “Uelzen lies at the
confluence of eleven small rivulets, three of which, the Wipperau, the
Gerdau and the Barnbeck, contain pearl-mussels. Fishing has been pursued
here for centuries, and there exists an old regulation of the sixteenth century
in regard to the pearl fisheries in the Ilmenau. Even at the present day,
hundreds of pearls are found here which command a good price when they
are bright and of good form. These either have a silvery sheen or they are of
a reddish color. The season for fishing is during the months of July and
August. The pearls are usually found in deformed shells. Their shape varies
greatly; most of them are flat on one side. Naturally those which are
spherical are the best, but the pear shapes are highly prized.” Möbius
frequently failed to find one pearl in a hundred shells, but at other times he
came across six or eight in this quantity. Most of the mussels are found in
the deepest places, especially near the banks of the streams. One end of the
shell usually projects out of the sand. The fisherman is represented as
feeling about the bottom with his feet, and when he finds a shell, he seizes it
between his toes, picks it out, and then places it in the basket suspended
from his neck.[217]

Page 229

MITER OF PATRIARCH
NIKON

Presented by the Czar Alexis
Mikhailovitch and the Czarina
Marie Illiinichna. Decorated
largely with European fresh-
water pearls. Now in the
treasury of the Patriarchs,
Moscow.

In Baden and in Hesse are small pearl fisheries. In 1760, Elector
Maximilian III sent to Mannheim, then in the Palatinate, eight hundred
living pearl-mussels from the Bavarian forests, and again in 1769, he sent
four hundred mussels from Deggendorf on the Danube, so that they might
be established in the Palatinate. The mussels were placed in the Steinbach
not far from Heidelberg, where they thrived so well that fishing was
instituted in 1783. Soon, however, most of the mussels became buried in the
sand, and the remainder were transplanted into a quieter portion of the
Steinbach, between Kreutzsteinach and Schönau, about five miles northeast
of Heidelberg. Here they seem to have been forgotten, and were left
undisturbed until, about 1820, a fine pearl valued at two louis d’or was
found near Schönau. This discovery soon led to such reckless exploitation
that the government reserved the fishery as a state monopoly. The mussels
were examined and sorted, and a portion of the brook was specially

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prepared for their reception. However, the cost of supervision was greater
than the proceeds of the fishery, and the business was rented to private
parties for a very small amount. This was paid as late as 1840 by the
Natural History Society of Mannheim, the annual rate then being ten
florins.
An effort was made nearly two hundred years ago to develop the pearl
fisheries in Hesse. In 1717, Landgrave Prince William requested his cousin,
Duke Moritz of Saxony, to send a pearl fisherman “to examine some
streams in his territory where mussels have been found and to determine
whether they are fitted for pearl fishing and whether fisheries can be
established.”[218] In the following year, a member of the famous Schmerler
family from the Saxon fisheries was sent to Cassel, but with what result is
unknown.
When the pearling excitement developed at Schönau about 1820,
Landrath Welker, of Hirschhorn on the Neckar, requested the grand duke of
Hesse to place him in charge of the fishery, and when the proposition was
declined, he formed a small company for pearl-culture. In 1828 his
company had 558 mussels, 88 of which showed pearl formations; in 1833,
out of 651, 98 contained such objects, and in 1851, 117 mussels were found
with pearl formations out of 867 examined.[219] Owing to the policy of the
company in selling the pearls only among the members thereof, the profits
were altogether insufficient to cover the expenses, and gradually the fishery
dwindled down until it was prosecuted only as a pastime.
Pearls are found in the province of Schleswig-Holstein, which formerly
belonged to Denmark, but since 1866 has been a part of the kingdom of
Prussia. Möbius relates that the Bavarian soldiers in 1864 collected large
quantities of pearls from the streams of this province and sold many of them
to jewelers in Hamburg.[220] Most of them were of good form and luster;
milky white was the prevailing tint, but some were pink and others were
rose-tinted.
In Austria, pearl fisheries are most important in the province of Bohemia,
where they are prosecuted in the headwaters of the Moldau from Krumau, a
few miles above Budweis, to below Turenberg, and to a much less extent in
its tributary, the Wottawa, on the northeastern slopes of the Böhmer Wald or
Bohemian Forest mountains. From very early times the right of fishery
belonged to those domains and estates through which the streams flow, as

Page 231

for example, the cloister of Hohenfurth, the domain of Rosenberg, of
Krumau, etc. The Schwarzenberg family formerly drew a considerable
revenue therefrom. Over a hundred years ago the fishery was actively
prosecuted by Count Adolph Schwarzenberg, who exhibited at the
Bohemian Exposition, held in Prague in 1791, an interesting collection of
shells, apparatus employed in the fishery, and many beautiful pearls
obtained from his domains. The fisheries of the Wottawa were noted in
1560 by the Swiss naturalist Konrad von Gesner,[221] and again in 1582 by
the district treasurer, Wolf Huber von Purgstall. In 1679, Balbinus referred
to the excellent qualities of the pearls, estimating the value of many of them
at twenty, thirty, and even one hundred golden florins each. He described
the methods by which they were taken, and also complained of the
destruction of the reefs by depredations of poachers.[222]
The Wottawa or Otawa River has long had linked with its name the
epithet “the gold- and pearl-bearing brook.” Formerly, along its shores gold
washing was more or less carried on, as well as the fresh-water pearl-
mussel industry. At the present time, every third or fourth year, these
mussels are gathered, by means of small, fine-woven nets, from the bed of
the river, and a goodly number of pearls are collected.
The reefs in the Moldau from Hohenfurth to Krumau were almost
entirely ruined in 1620 by the troops who were cantoned there when the
Bohemian Protestants were overthrown near the beginning of the Thirty
Years’ War, and they never regained the reputation they formerly enjoyed.
According to the Vienna “Handels- und Börsenzeitung,” the output of the
pearls fifty years ago in the upper Moldau, in the Wottawa, and in the
Chrudimka—a tributary of the Elbe—reached in some years the sum of one
million florins in value, and as much as eighty and sometimes even one
hundred and twenty florins were paid for an individual specimen.[223] These
pearls closely resemble those from Passau in Bavaria, and some approach
the oriental gems in luster.
In the archduchy of Austria, pearls occur in several of the tributaries of
the “beautiful blue Danube.” They are especially important in streams
within the former district of Schärding, such as the Ludhammerbach, the
Ranzenbergerbach, the Glatzbachenbach, the Brambach, the
Schwarzbergerbach, the Mosenbach, and the Hollenbach; those in the
former district of Waizkirchen, including the Pirningerbach, the Kesselbach,

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and many of their tributary brooks, and the Michel, the Taglinsbach, the
Fixelbach, and the Haarbach, in the domain of Marbach.[224] Fishing in the
Pirningerbach and the Kesselbach was prosperous about 1765, and Empress
Maria Theresa received a beautiful necklace and bracelets of the pearls
therefrom. In the district of Marbach, the fishing was prosecuted as long
ago as 1685 for the account of the archbishop of Passau.
In Hungary from time immemorial, the native pearls have been popular
with the Magyar women, and very many yet exist in the old Hungarian
jewelry worn with the national costume. A century ago there was scarcely a
family of local prominence which did not possess a necklace of pearls,
although these were frequently not of choice quality or of considerable size.
With a falling off in the output of the native streams there has been a great
increase in the quantity of choice oriental pearls purchased by the wealthy
families, and some of the most costly necklaces in Europe are now owned
here.
In the kingdom of Denmark no pearl fisheries are now prosecuted, but
three centuries ago the gems were taken in the Kolding Fjord in the
province of Veile, Jutland. The great Holberg, who ranks first in Danish
literature, wrote that the governor of the castle at Kolding employed as a
pearl fisherman a Greenlander who had come to Denmark in 1605 or 1606,
and who “had given the governor to understand that in his native land he
was accustomed to fish for pearls.” Being required to work continuously,
both winter and summer, he fell ill and died, and as no one else wished to
pursue the occupation, the fishery ceased.[225]
In many of the Norwegian brooks, pearl fishing has been carried on for
two or three centuries, and often with satisfactory results. It appears from
ordinances dated November 10, 1691, May 14, 1707, and May 28, 1718,
that the fisheries were under special supervision as a royal prerogative of
the queen of Denmark.[226] Jahn notes that in 1719 and in 1722, Saxon pearl
fishermen were sent for. In 1734 Charles VI of Denmark requested the
elector of Saxony to send one of the pearl fishermen of Vogtland to examine
the brooks of Norway in reference to the pearl resources, and to determine
the practicability of establishing fisheries there. In response to this request,
C. H. Schmerler was sent to Copenhagen and thence to Christiania, where
he began an investigation of the Norwegian waters, the governor himself
attending at the beginning of the work. So great was the estimation of its

Page 233

importance, that Schmerler was soon afterward received in audience by the
king and queen of united Denmark and Norway at Frederiksborg palace
near Copenhagen, and was awarded a gift of one hundred ducats and a life-
pension.[227]
In 1751, according to Pontoppidan, Bishop of Bergen, the Norwegian
pearl fisheries were placed under the jurisdiction of the diocese of
Christiansand. Among the principal pearling regions at that time were the
Gon, Närim and Quasim rivers in the Stavanger district or amt; the Undol,
Rosseland and other brooks in the Lister and Mandal province; and several
streams in the district of Nadenäs.[228]
The returns from the Norwegian fisheries gradually decreased. After
1768 the rights were leased, and the revenue therefrom was paid into the
royal treasury. Owing to small returns, this source of revenue received less
and less attention, and about a century ago it was altogether neglected,
although from time to time choice finds were made. Due to unusually low
water in 1841, a number of valuable pearls were found near Jedderen in the
province of Christiansand, some selling as high as $300 each; several of
these were shown at the London Industrial Exhibition by the diocese of
Christiania.

PANAGIA OR ORNAMENT
WORN ON THE BREAST
OF A BISHOP IN RUSSIA

Page 234

The pearl fisheries of Sweden were noted, nearly four centuries ago, by
Olaus Magnus, Archbishop of Upsala.[229] The gems were sought for by
expert fishermen in the interior districts, and were brought in large
quantities to the coasts for sale, the women and girls of all classes, rich and
poor, using them extensively in personal decoration.
The celebrated Linnæus left a detailed account of the method by which
mussels were caught in Sweden nearly two centuries ago. He wrote: “In the
summer season, if the water is shallow, the fishermen wade in the stream
and gather the mussels with their hands. Should the water be deeper, they
dive for the mussels and place such as they find in a vessel made of birch
bark, which they carry with them. Sunny days are selected, because then
they can see deeper into the water. But, should this not suffice, they traverse
the river on rafts which are painted white beneath so that the bed of the
stream may be illumined by the reflected light. The men lie prone on the
rafts and look down into the depths so that they may immediately seize with
wooden tongs the mussels which they discover. Or else, hanging by their
hands to the rafts, they seize them in the water with their toes. If the water
is too deep even for this, they dive and feel around on the bottom with their
hands until it becomes necessary to rise again to the surface in order to
breathe. However, out of a hundred mussels, scarcely one contains a good
pearl; but sometimes as many as twenty pearls of the size of a grain of sand
are found in one shell. Many of the larger pearls are reddish or dark, but
occasionally a beautiful white pearl is hidden under such a covering;
although, naturally, it is rare that this is altogether perfect. It has been noted
that mussels seven years old contain pearls; and in each of two mussels
eighteen years old, a pearl was found attached to the shell.”[230]
The list of streams in Sweden from which pearls were taken, as noted by
Olaf Maimer, J. Fischerstein, and Gissler[231] a century and a half ago, seems
to cover nearly all the rivers and brooks which flow from the mountains of
this beautiful country.
In Russia the love for the pearl has been almost as great as in Persia and
India. During the Middle Ages, pearls were worn upon the clothes of nearly
all well-to-do Russians. The great head-dresses of the women were
ornamented with them; and they were used in decorating the stoles,
vestments, crosses, and the priceless relics in the churches.

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The pearl-mussel is found in very many of the Russian streams. It occurs
throughout Archangel, in most of the rivers which flow into the White Sea,
into Lake Ladoga, Lake Onega, and the Baltic Sea; and likewise in the
Volga watershed. Von Hessling states that east of the Volga its southern
boundary extends to Lat. 56°, while on the west it extends further
southward, so that in the region of the Dnieper it reaches Lat. 51°. The
extreme southern limit is near the mouth of the Don, about 47° north
latitude.[232]
In northern Russia pearls are secured in the provinces of Livonia.
Esthonia, and Olonetz, and in the grand duchy of Finland, where they have
been sought after for three centuries or more. Most of them are bluish gray
in color and they attain a maximum weight of about twelve grains.
Although not equaling the oriental gems, these pearls are of good quality
and are highly esteemed, not only by the peasants but by the nobility and by
the royal family of Russia. For reference to most of the historical data
relative to the fishery in Livonia, we are indebted to an account written by
H. Kawall.[233]
So long ago as 1612, Dionysius Fabricius compared the pearls of Livonia
with those of India. Said he: “Nor should I omit to mention that there are
rivers in Livonia wherein large pearls are produced in shells; and I myself
have seen some as large as the oriental, especially when they are well
grown. But because the peasants of this region are too ignorant to determine
with certainty when they mature, they are unable to collect them properly,
and therefore the pearls have become rarer.”[234]
According to Mylius,[235] in the seventeenth century, when Livonia
belonged to Sweden, the pearl resources received attention from the
government. Charles IX of Sweden decreed October 22, 1694, that the
pearls therefrom should not be exported but should be sold to officers of the
crown at a definite price. In 1700, an inspector of the fishery in Livonia,
whose name was Krey, reported that the peasants collected pearls secretly
from the small rivers and brooks, and forwarded them to Moscow for sale.
As the peasants objected to selling them to the king’s commissioners at the
prices fixed, the fishery soon dwindled in extent. However, on the
annexation of Livonia to Russia in 1712, and the removal of these
restrictions, it revived and became of local importance during the last years
of the reign of Peter the Great.

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In 1742 the Livonian fishery was reorganized at the suggestion of a
Swede named Hedenberg. Furnished by the government with funds and an
escort, he began an exploration of the pearl-bearing waters, commencing
with Lake Kolk, where he secured many pearls of value, some of which
were presented to Empress Elizabeth.[236]
The fishery then came into great favor. To the nobility of Livonia, in
whose domains the brooks were situated, the crown accorded sixty rubles
for each half ounce of choice pearls secured, and for every half ounce of the
second class, thirty rubles; but the nobles were obliged to renounce their
rights to the fisheries and to permit the lakes and brooks to be guarded by
imperial soldiers. Owing to the very great destruction of mussels which
yielded no pearls, a reward was offered to any one who would discover a
method of determining from external characteristics those individual shells
which contain gems of value.
In 1746, when the Empress Elizabeth passed the summer in Livonia,
large quantities of pearls from the neighboring brooks were presented to
her. But, owing to the cost of supervision, the expenditures soon exceeded
the revenues and the government abandoned the guard and dismissed the
fishermen. Little by little the search decreased, and by 1774 relatively few
pearls were found.[237]
According to Hupel, the Schwarzbach River, near Werro, was celebrated
for its pearls, which were noted for their size and beauty; one of the
tributaries of this river is named Perlenbach (Pearl Brook). The Ammat and
Tirse streams, and forty other brooks and lakes also yielded them. Pearls of
slight value were likewise produced in the Palze and the Rause, near
Palzmar; the Paddez, a tributary of the Evest which empties into the Düna,
and the Voidau and the Petribach, each of which flows into the
Schwarzbach. Near the Tirse was a very old road house, patronized by the
peasants, which from time immemorial had borne the name Pehrlu-kroghs
(Pearl Tavern).
Formerly some of the brooks of Esthonia on the Gulf of Finland, and
principally those near Kolk and the adjacent lakes, furnished beautiful
pearls. From these waters came the beautiful necklace which is yet an
heirloom in the Kolk family. The choicest of these weighed from five to ten
grains, and the color was grayish blue. The Emperor Alexander I is said to
have received a present of pearls collected in the vicinity of Tammerfors, in

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the government of Tavastehus, in the grand duchy of Finland. The
development of manufacturing in that region, however, has destroyed most
of the mussels.
Von Hessling notes that in the province of Olonetz, pearls are found in
the Poventshanka, in the Ostjor, and in the Kums, where they are secured by
the neighboring peasants who sometimes make valuable finds.[238] When the
brooks dry up, the mussels are easily secured; old inhabitants note that on
one occasion of this kind many superb pearls were found in the
Poventshanka, and a necklace of them was presented to the Empress
Catherine Alexievna. These pearls rarely leave the province in which they
are collected, as the inhabitants are fond of using them for personal
decoration. Young girls attend to the fishing, and workmen pierce them for
about two copecks each. Choice ones sell for thirty to one hundred rubles
apiece.
In the government of Archangel pearls have been collected for centuries
from the streams flowing into the White Sea and the Arctic Ocean. An
extended account of the fisheries of this region was given by Von
Middendorff.[239] He states that the Unio margaritifera inhabits all the rivers
in which the descent is not too rapid, and especially in the Tjura, the
Tuloma, the Kovda, Kereda, the Kanda, etc. The fisheries have been
conducted exclusively by the shore Laplanders; but they have been
neglected in recent years owing to the small returns. Von Hessling notes
that the pearls are dull in color; in the opinion of the fishermen this is
caused by the mysterious influence of the copper money which they carry
with them. The Tuloma was formerly a productive river; its pearls were sold
in Kola, whence they were carried to Archangel, 335 miles distant, where
they were pierced by expert workmen. The Tjura also yielded many pearls;
but since a Laplander was drowned while fishing for them, a legend has
spread that the spirit of the river guards the pearls, and the natives hesitate
about seeking them.
Probably the occurrence of so many in the home streams had much to do
with developing in Russia that great love for the pearl which has made it the
national ornament, all classes finding pleasure in its possession. While the
superb gems treasured by the nobility are mostly from oriental seas, a
considerable percentage of those worn by the peasantry are from the native
waters. An interesting account of this fondness among a certain class of

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Russian women—the Jewesses of Little Russia—was given sixty years ago
by the German traveler Kohl.

RUSSIAN BOYARD
LADIES OF THE
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY,
SHOWING CAPS AND
OTHER ORNAMENTS OF
PEARLS

In Alexandria, a small city in the government of Kherson in South Russia, a Jew kept a café, and
his charming daughter served us with coffee. We paid her compliments on her beautiful eyes and
teeth. But she seemed to be much less vain of these natural ornaments than of the acquired ones in
the magnificent glittering pearl-cap which she wore upon her head. For all the women through South
and Little Russia even as far as Galicia wear a certain stiff, baggy cap which is very disfiguring, and
is covered all over with a great number of pearls, upon a foundation of black velvet. It is called a
“mushka.” This cap, with very unimportant modifications, has almost always the same form; the only
difference is that, in the case of the wealthy, the pearls are larger, and sometimes a number of small
pearls and precious stones are suspended here and there, set in the same way as the earrings of our
ladies. It is common for them to wear half their fortune on their heads in this way. For these caps
generally cost from five hundred to one thousand roubles, and many are worth five or six thousand
and even more; they wear them every day, holidays as well as ordinary days, and strut around the
kitchens and cellars with their “mushka.” They spend their last penny in order to secure such a pearl-
cap, and even when they are clad in rags their head is covered with pearls. In order to furnish the
requisite material for this wide-spread fashion, the commerce in pearls of Odessa, Taganrog and
some other places in southern Russia is not unimportant. There may live in the region where the
pearl-caps of which I speak are worn at least 2,000,000 Jewesses. Let us estimate that among them
there are but 300,000 adults, and that only half of these, 150,000, wear pearl-caps (only the most
indigent and the most aristocratic do not wear the “mushka”); let us then estimate the average value
of such a cap at only five hundred roubles—these are the lowest minima and fall far short of the real
figures—and we have a total capital of 76,000,000 roubles, which the Jewesses of this region wear
upon their heads. Naturally the annual diminution of this capital is small, since these pearls are
transmitted from the mothers to their daughters and granddaughters. Still, if we estimate that they last
for a century, the necessary yearly contribution amounts to nearly one million. It is, however,

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probable that a much larger capital is employed in the commerce of pearls. They are, for the most
part, oriental and come by way of Turkey and Odessa or else by way of Armenia and Tiflis. We
inquired of our beautiful Jewess whether she was not in perpetual dread on account of her pearl-cap,
and how she protected it from thieves. She answered that she wore it on her head all day and at night
placed it in a casket which rested under her pillow. So that the whole short life of these Jewesses of
the steppes revolves around their pearl-cap as the earth does around the sun.[240]
Several species of marine mollusks on the coasts of Europe yield pearly
formations, but none of much ornamental or commercial value. Probably
the most interesting of these are from the Pinna on the Mediterranean
coasts, and especially on the coast of Sardinia and the shores of the
Adriatic. An interesting collection of these Pinna pearls was furnished to the
writers by Alexandro Castellani of Rome.

Page 240

IX

ISLANDS OF THE PACIFIC

SOUTH SEA ISLANDS, AUSTRALIAN COASTS, MALAY ARCHIPELAGO

Page 241

IX
PEARL FISHERIES OF THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS

Sea-girt isles,
That, like to rich and various gems, inlay
The unadorned bosom of the deep.

Milton.

G
athering pearl shells and pearls is the principal industry of the
semi-amphibious natives of the hundreds of palm-crowned and
foam-girdled islands of the southern Pacific, commonly known
as the South Sea Islands. Among these the most prominent for
pearl fishing are the Tuamotu Islands or Low Archipelago, the Society
Islands, the Marquesas, the Fiji Islands, Penrhyn or Tongareva, and New
Caledonia. These are under the protection of the French government, except
Fiji and Penrhyn, which belong to Great Britain.
Almost ever since the South Sea Islands have been known to civilization
they have contributed pearls; and the fishery has been one of the principal
industries, not only for the natives, but also for the not inconsiderable
number of sailors who, preferring the lotus on shore to the salt pork and
monotony of ship life, have yielded to the insular attractions and formed
domestic ties. The industry has been especially extensive during the last
seventy years, when there has been a profitable market for the shells. Most
of the natives—men, women, and children—follow it for a living. Domestic
duties rest very lightly upon the women, and many of these, and even young
girls, find employment in diving, in which at moderate depths these dusky
mermaids are nearly, if not quite as expert as the men and boys.
Tahiti, the largest of the eleven Society Islands, is the center of the
pearling industry of French Oceanica. It is situated in about Lat. 17° S. and
Long. 150° W., and has an area of approximately 410 square miles and a

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population of 11,000, nearly one half of whom live in Papeiti, the principal
town. This is one of the most agreeable of the “Summer Isles of Eden,”
Nature furnishing food in abundance, and climate and social customs
requiring little in the way of dress and habitation. Notwithstanding its
importance as the headquarters of the pearling industry, few pearl-oysters
are caught at Tahiti, most of them coming from the archipelagoes of
Tuamotu, Gambier, and occasionally Tubai.
The Tuamotu Archipelago is the scene of the principal pearl fisheries of
the South Seas; and from the local importance of this industry the group is
sometimes called the Pearl Islands. These coral-formed islands are strung
out for a distance of 900 miles in a northwest and southeast direction, and
extend from Lat. 14° to 23° S. and from Long. 136° to 149° W. They
number about seventy-eight, many of them made up of small atolls only a
few feet above the surface of the ocean, and with an aggregate area of about
360 square miles. The total population is approximately 6000, with many
visitors from Tahiti and other neighboring islands during the pearling
season. The principal products are pearl shell and pearls, copra, and
cocoanut oil; and nearly one half of the islands yield nothing but shell and
pearls. The chief port is Fakarava on an island of the same name, and the
trade is almost entirely with Tahiti.
As the Tuamotus are of coral formation, they produce little vegetable
growth, and the people seem often on the brink of starvation, forming a
striking contrast with those of the neighboring Society Islands. Drawing
their subsistence entirely from the sea, except for the native cocoanuts and
breadfruit, these people have, at times, been in great straits for food, and it
was doubtless severe hunger that drove them to the acts of cannibalism with
which they have been charged. And the sea which supplies them with food
has also visited them with great destruction. As recently as January, 1903, a
great storm swept over this group, drowning over 500 of the inhabitants,
and destroying a very considerable portion of the pearling fleet and other
property.
The pearl-oyster reefs of the Tuamotu Archipelago are very extensive,
only eight or ten of the islands failing to contribute to the supply. They
occur in the protected lagoons of the atolls, where the bottom is well
covered with coral growth, with numerous elevations and depressions of
various sizes; and it is about the bases and in the recesses of these coral

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growths that the best shells are usually found. Most of them are of the
black-edged variety of Margaritifera margaritifera, which here attains a
great size, reaching a diameter of twelve inches in extreme cases.
While pearl-oysters are found about nearly all of the Tuamotu Islands,
the reefs are richest at Hikueru or Melville Island. When that lagoon is open
it is the scene of the greatest operations, and it is credited with nearly one
half of the total product of the archipelago. At the opening of the season,
this is the resort of fishermen from all over the group, even from a distance
of five hundred miles, and thousands of natives camp in temporary leaf-
thatched huts among the cocoanut-palms on the beach, those from the
different islands congregating in isolated settlements. As many as five
thousand persons are sometimes brought together in this way.

THE PEARLING REGIONS IN OCEANIA AND
MALAYSIA

The volcanic-formed Gambier Islands, with high peaks reaching, in one
instance, an altitude of over 1200 feet, present a striking contrast to the
Tuamotu atolls. This group consists of five large and several small islands,
surrounded by a coral reef of an irregular triangular figure. The 1100
inhabitants of the Gambier Islands derive a large percentage of their support
from the pearl fishery. The patches of pearl-oysters are located between the
islands and the barrier reefs. They are numerous about the island of
Mangareva, which is well surrounded by them on the north, east, and
southeast. Oysters from the reef of Tearae, which extends from the eastern
point of Mangareva to the small island of Aukena, a distance of two miles,

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are especially rich in pearls. On this reef, where the water is from one to
four fathoms in depth, the mollusks are small, rarely exceeding five or six
inches at maturity, but the shell is very thick and coral covered; these yield
many pearls. In greater depths, the oysters attain a larger size, but they yield
few pearls.
The first white man to attempt the exploitation of the pearl resources of
the Tuamotus appears to have been Mörenhout. In a voyage to the Oceanic
Islands in 1827, he learned of the great wealth of pearl shell, and applied to
Queen Pomaré at Tahiti for permission to employ the natives in the fishery.
With an eye to business, she required a fee of $5000 for herself before
granting the desired authority.[241] Considering this excessive, Mörenhout
attempted to deal with the natives without permission of the dusky queen,
but under these adverse conditions he found the trade unsatisfactory and
soon abandoned it.
In 1830, and the years immediately succeeding, desultory pearling
voyages were made from Valparaiso, Chile, and these were followed by
expeditions from America and elsewhere. An interesting account of the
trade at that time is contained in Lucatt’s “Rovings in the Pacific from 1837
to 1849,” published in London in 1851.
The Mormon influx in 1846 resulted in a further development of the
pearl fishery; and Grouard, the local leader of that denomination, is credited
with making a fortune in the business.
From the beginning of the industry up to 1880, when control of the
islands passed to the French government, it is estimated that about 15,000
tons of pearl-oysters were secured. The extent of the fishery during the few
years preceding 1880 made such drains upon the productiveness of the reefs
that many of them gave signs of exhaustion. With a view to adopting
methods for conserving the industry, so essential to the welfare of the
natives, the French Ministry of Marine and Colonies in 1883 inaugurated an
investigation of its condition, and of the possibilities for improvement. This
was made under the immediate direction of G. Bouchon-Brandely, whose
interesting report[242] contains much data on this subject.
As a result of these investigations and recommendations, a restricted
season for fishing was adopted, and only a portion of the reefs was thrown
open each year, a decree of the governor, published in the “Journal Officiel”
of the colony, determining the islands in which the fishery might be

Page 245

prosecuted. This interdiction, known locally as rahui, is for the purpose of
permitting the oysters to develop, and thus prevent the exhaustion of the
reefs.
By decree of January 24, 1885, a restriction was made against taking
shells measuring less than 17 centimeters in diameter on the interior nacre,
or weighing less than 200 grams per valve. But this was repealed in 1890,
and since then there has been no restriction on the size of the oysters that
may be fished.
The pearl fishery and the isolated leper station are the principal claims
which attract the attention of the outside world to the island of Penrhyn or
Tongareva, one of the Manahiki group, in Lat. 9° S., and Long. 158° W.
This desolate atoll island consists of a ring of land a few hundred yards in
width, inclosing a lagoon nine miles long and five miles wide, and it
produces little else than pearls and pearl shell. The white gravelly shore
yields little vegetation except cocoanuts, which share with fish in furnishing
sustenance to the semi-amphibious natives.
At Penrhyn the pearl fishery is carried on in the clear, limpid waters of
the atoll where the oysters are undisturbed by storms. The shells belong
mostly to the golden-edged variety, and are of good quality, the value in
London ranging from £100 to £250 per ton. Relatively few pearls are found,
amounting in aggregate value to only about one fourth of the value of the
shells. These are the principal objects of the fishery; the finding of pearls is
incidental, but careful search is always made for them, and some choice
specimens have been secured.
On the coast of New Caledonia, pearling is of recent origin, dating as an
industrial enterprise from 1897, although previous to that time some shells
and pearls had been secured by native beach-combers. This island is 220
miles in length and 30 in width, situated 850 miles southeast of Australia,
and about the same distance from New Zealand. It is a French colony, and
has been used by that government as a penal settlement since 1864.
In 1897, rich beds of pearl-oysters were discovered off the west coast of
this island. They are most numerous between the shore and the barrier reefs
on the west coast from Pouembout River to Gomen Bay, and especially
about the small island of Konienne at the mouth of the Pouembout River.
They are also abundant among the Loyalty Islands off the eastern coast of
New Caledonia, and especially at the island of Lifu.[243] The shell is similar

Page 246

to that from Torres Straits, and the yield of pearls is very large. Several
concessions have been obtained to exploit these beds, one of them covering
130 miles in length. The industry is carried on by means of scaphanders, in
a manner similar to that of Torres Straits. Virtually all of the catch is sent to
France.
The natives of the South Sea Islands, and particularly of Penrhyn and the
Tuamotu group, are doubtless the most expert divers in the world. This can
be readily appreciated by those who have read of Hua Manu in C. W.
Stoddard’s thrilling narrative, or have heard the story of the brown woman
who swam for forty hours in a storm with a helpless husband on her back.
Accustomed to the water from infancy, these human otters swim all day
long as readily as they would walk, go miles from shore without a boat in
search of fish which they take by means of baited hook and line, and boldly
attack a shark single-handed. Seemingly fabulous stories are told of their
descending, unaided, 150 feet or more beneath the surface, and remaining at
lesser depths for nearly three minutes, far surpassing any modern records of
the divers of India.
The water in the South Seas is wonderfully clear, enabling the fishermen
to detect small objects at considerable depths, and especially so when using
the water-telescope, similar to that employed in the Red Sea fisheries. By
immersing this to a depth of several inches and cutting off the light from the
upper end as he gazes through it down into the waters, the fisherman can
readily inspect the bottom at a depth of fifteen fathoms, and thus locate the
shells before he descends.
The diving is quite unlike that in Ceylon and Arabia. The men do not
descend on stones, but swim to the bottom. The diver is stripped to his
paréu or breech-clout, his right hand is protected by a cotton mitten or by
only a wrapping of cotton cloth, and in his left hand he carries a pearl shell
to assist in directing his movements and in detaching the oysters at the
bottom. In preparing for a deep descent, he sits for several minutes in
characteristic attitude with hands hanging over knees, and repeatedly
inflates his lungs to the fullest capacity, exhaling the air slowly through his
mouth. After five or six minutes of “taking the wind,” the diver inhales a
good breath, drops over the gunwale into the water to give him a start, and
descends feet foremost. At a distance of twelve or fifteen feet below the
surface, gracefully as an otter or a seal, he bends forward and turns head

Page 247

downward and, with limbs showing dimly in frog-like motion, he swims
vertically the remaining distance to the bottom. There he assumes a
horizontal position and swims slowly just above the ground, searching
critically for suitable oysters, in this way traversing a distance possibly of
fifty feet or more. When he has secured an oyster, or his breath is
approaching exhaustion, he springs from the ground in an erect position and
rapidly swims upward, the buoyancy of his body hastening his ascent so
that he pops head and shoulders above the surface, and falls back with
laboring pulse and panting breath. In case the dive has been unusually
extended, a few drops of blood may trickle from the nose and mouth. His
find—consisting frequently of nothing and rarely of more than one oyster—
is carried in a cocoanut fiber sack suspended from the neck, or is held in the
left hand, or may be hugged beneath the left arm.
Ordinarily in actual fishing operations, the fishermen do not descend to
greater depths than fifteen fathoms, and remain from sixty to ninety
seconds. Writing in 1851, a trader who had spent several years in collecting
pearls and pearl shells among the Tuamotus stated: “I timed several by the
watch, and the longest period I knew any of them to keep beneath the water
was a minute and a quarter, and there were only two who accomplished this
feat. Rather less than a minute was the usual duration. It is unusual for them
to attempt deep diving; and let the shells be ever so abundant, they will
come up and swear there are none.”[244]
However, in mutual contests or in special exhibitions, reports of twenty,
twenty-three, and even twenty-five fathoms are numerous, and they have
repeatedly been timed two and a half to three minutes. Bouchon-Brandely
speaks of a woman at Anaa, one of the Tuamotus, who would go down
twenty-five fathoms and remain three minutes under water.[245] This seems
very unusual, but there are numerous reports of two and a half minutes at
about seventeen or eighteen fathoms. In October, 1899, at Hikueru Island,
another of the Tuamotu group, a young native made an exhibition dive for
the officers of the United States Fish Commission steamship Albatross. He
reached bottom at a depth of 102 feet under the boat’s keel, and remained
submerged two minutes and forty seconds. The water was so transparent
that he was clearly seen from the surface. After he touched bottom at that
great depth, he calmly picked over the coral and shells to select a piece to
bring up.[246] The diver was ready to go down again only a few minutes after
he came up.

Page 248

In his work on French Oceanica, Chartier states: “There are three women
well known in the archipelago [of Tuamotu] who have no equals elsewhere;
they explore the depth at twenty-five fathoms and remain not less than three
minutes before reappearing at the surface.”[247] However, these unusual
depths and extensions of time are dangerous, and care must be taken or
serious results follow. Most of the catch is obtained in about ten fathoms of
water.
At the request of the writer, Mr. Julius D. Dreher, American Consul at
Tahiti, made inquiries among the South Sea Islands in regard to the record
of the best divers, and wrote as follows:
Mr. J. L. Young, who has lived in these islands for thirty years, informs me that he has never seen a
diver remain under water longer than 80 seconds, and that at a depth of twelve to fifteen fathoms. At
one time he tested a man who claimed to be able to stay under for three minutes, yet this man could
hold his breath on land less than 80 seconds by the watch.
Elder Joseph F. Burton, who has spent many years as a missionary in these islands, states that once
in Hikueru, of the Tuamotu group, he went out in a boat with the divers to time them. The best record
made was 107 seconds, but he was informed that there were better divers on the island than those he
tested. He thinks the water was ten to twelve fathoms in depth. A native of Takaroa, named Metuaro,
told Mr. Burton that he could stay under water three minutes or longer. When these divers come up
they take a breath and immediately put their head under water to prevent headache.
Mr. J. Lamb Doty, formerly Consul and now Vice-Consul at Tahiti, who has spent eighteen years
here, is willing to be quoted as affirming that he once timed a diver who remained under water 2
minutes 35 seconds.
Mr. Henry B. Merwin, a leading trader with the Tuamotu Islands, is willing to be quoted as saying
that he saw a diver remain under water 4 minutes 45 seconds by the watch. This is generally
regarded, so far as my inquiries go, as improbable; but most persons interviewed believe that men do
remain under water 2½ to 3 minutes. A native of Takaroa, named Tai, assured me in the presence of
others that there were twenty men in that island who could remain under water 2½ to 3 minutes at a
depth of twenty fathoms. He claimed to be able to stay 3 minutes at that depth.

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Pearl-divers of the Tuamotu Archipelago; men, women and
children dive in these waters

Settlement of pearl fishermen at Hiqueru, Tuamotu
Archipelago

Diving-suits, or scaphanders, have been used at most of the South Sea
Islands, but in a very irregular manner. In 1890 the use of scaphanders was
restricted in the Tuamotu group, and by decree of December 28, 1892, it
was interdicted altogether with a view to preserving the industry to the
natives, as it represents their principal means of livelihood. The suit
commonly employed at Penrhyn consists of a helmet and a jumper, neither
boots nor trousers being worn. Owing to the absence of weights on the feet,

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it rarely but nevertheless sometimes happens that a diver turns upside down,
and the unwieldy helmet keeps him head downward while the air rushes out
under the bottom cord of the jumper and he is suffocated. Also, when a
good patch of shells has been located, the temptation to remain down too
long is great, and paralysis often results. On the whole, these diving-suits
have proven very dangerous to the light, graceful swimmers of these
southern seas, to whom they are about as much of an impediment as was
Saul’s armor to the shepherd lad who slew the giant with the simple pebble
from a sling.
And there are dangers also in nude diving, even to those who have spent
a lifetime about the water. Sharks and sting-rays and devil-fish there are in
abundance, and many of them know the taste of diver’s flesh; on the other
hand many a daring South Sea Islander could tell of a fierce combat more
thrilling than even those pictured by Victor Hugo. One of the chief
advantages of the diving-suit is that in case a shark comes along, the diver
can bide his time until the fish is ready to leave, or he can frighten it away
by ejecting air bubbles from the sleeve of his suit or by other
demonstrations; whereas a nude diver is obliged to seek the air without
delay, and in the retreat is seized by the fish who, human like, has his
appetite increased by the visible retreat of the object of his desire.
Not Schiller nor Edgar Allan Poe ever conjured up a picture more ghastly than that of a Penrhyn
diver caught like a rat in a trap by some huge, man-eating shark or fierce kara mauua, crouching in a
cleft of the overhanging coral, under the dark green gloom of a hundred feet of water, with bursting
lungs and cracking eyeballs, while the threatening bulk of his terrible enemy looms dark and steady,
full in the road to life and air. A minute or more has been spent in the downward journey; another
minute has passed in the agonized wait under the rock.... Has he been seen?... Will the creature move
away now, while there is still time to return? The diver knows to a second how much time has
passed; the third minute is on its way; but one goes up quicker than one comes down, and there is
still hope.... Two minutes and a half; it is barely possible now, but—the sentinel of death glides
forward; his cruel eyes, phosphorescent in the gloom, look right into the cleft where the wretched
creature is crouching, with almost twenty seconds of life still left, but now not a shred of hope. A few
more beats of the laboring pulse, a gasp from the tortured lungs, a sudden rush of silvery air bubbles,
and the brown limbs collapse down out of the cleft like wreaths of seaweed. The shark has his own.
(Beatrice Grimshaw in the “Graphic.”)
At the end of the day’s work, the catch is opened by means of a large
knife, and carefully searched for the much prized pearls. Usually the
fisherman finds none; occasionally he discovers a small round one or a
large baroque, and at long intervals—possibly once in two or three years—
his search is rewarded with a fine pearl for which he may receive $50 or
$60, and there is always the chance that the very next oyster will disclose a

Page 251

gem which will make him independent for the remainder of his life; and if
no pearls whatever are found, there are the shells, the sale of which
furnishes sufficient to purchase tobacco, knives, fish-hooks, the gaudy
cotton cloths, the flour and other simple articles of food, and especially
rum, that fatal gift of civilization which has been the curse of so many
primitive peoples.
Some of the individual pearls secured have been remarkably large,
weighing 100 grains and over. Returning visitors from Tahiti, with views
magnified doubtless in proportion to the distance of the objects of their
description, credited Queen Pomaré with the possession of some
sufficiently large to be used for billiard-balls. Sixty years ago superb pearls
could be obtained from the natives for a few gallons of rum or a small
number of pieces of cheap calico, and several shrewd traders made great
profits in the business. But as trade at the islands was open to vessels of all
nationalities, the competition increased, with the result that the natives
gradually learned the high estimation in which pearls are held, and in recent
years it has not been unusual for one of medium grade to sell higher in
Oceanica than it would in Europe.
It is difficult to form a reliable estimate of the value of the pearling
industry of the South Sea Islands. The Tuamotu group, with 4000
fishermen, yields, in an average season, about 450 tons of mother-of-pearl,
worth about £65,000 in London, where most of it is marketed. The yield at
the remaining French islands is less than that of the Tuamotus. Probably the
total yield of mother-of-pearl in all the South Sea Islands is not far from 900
tons, worth about $700,000.
No statistics whatever are available regarding the yield of pearls, and the
estimates sent from the islands are small compared with those made by
London and Paris firms who import the pearls. A large number of persons
living in Papeiti and many traders visiting the islands depend very largely
on pearl-dealing for a livelihood. From the yield of pearl shell and estimates
made by dealers, we are inclined to put the value of the pearls secured in an
average season from all the South Sea Islands at about $125,000, only a
small portion of which goes to the fishermen themselves, the greater part
representing profits of the traders.

Page 252

PEARL FISHERIES OF AUSTRALIA
Ocean’s gem, the purest
Of nature’s works! What days of weary journeyings,
What sleepless nights, what toils on land and sea,
Are borne by men to gain thee!

Unknown.

As regards area of distribution the most extensive pearl-oyster grounds of
the world are situated on the northern and western coasts of Australia.
These are located within the jurisdictions of Queensland, Western Australia,
and South Australia; and extend in irregular patches from near Cooktown
on the northeast almost to Fremantle at the southwest, a distance of nearly
3000 miles. Those in Queensland are commonly known as the Torres Straits
fisheries, as they are especially important there; but they extend a
considerable distance beyond each end of the strait, and pearling
expeditions are made from the limits of the Great Barrier coral reef
northward to the vicinity of New Guinea.[248] Those of Western Australia are
commonly spoken of as the Northwest fisheries.
The fisheries of Queensland and of Western Australia are approximately
equal in extent, as regards number of vessels, boats, and men employed,
and the quantity and value of the catch, with the advantage slightly in favor
of the Northwest fishery in the last four or five years. In 1905, according to
the official figures, the Queensland fishery gave employment to 348 vessels
and 2850 men, and yielded shell and pearls worth £135,000, which was the
smallest output since 1890. The Western Australia fishery, exclusive of
Sharks Bay, employed 365 vessels in 1905, and about the same number of
men as in Queensland, and yielded £196,000 worth of shell and pearls. The
fishery of South Australia employed about 60 vessels and 375 men, and
yielded about £25,000 worth of shell and pearls. This makes for the whole
of Australia, except Sharks Bay hereinafter noted, a total of 773 vessels,
6075 men, and an output worth £356,000. It should be understood that the
South Australia fishery is not prosecuted on the southern coast of the
continent, but on the northern coast, in what is known as the Northern
Territory of South Australia.

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Three species of pearl-oysters are found in Australian waters. The largest
species, Margaritifera maxima, which is by far the most important and
widely distributed, occurs to a greater or less extent throughout the whole of
this region. This yields the standard motherof-pearl of commerce. Although
the pearls which it yields are among the largest and finest in the world, this
mollusk is sought more particularly for the shell, the value of which from
season to season averages three or four times as much as that of the pearls.
Ordinarily this shell is uniformly white over the entire inner surface, and is
commonly known locally as “silver lip”; but some “golden-edged” shell
occurs on the muddy grounds in narrow passages between the islands on the
northwest coast.
While this species is gregarious, it is not located in densely covered beds,
but is scattered in patches over the reefs. Some of these are miles in length
and contain scores of tons, but visually they are very much smaller. The
oysters occur principally on rocky bottom, and also on clay and sand when
well covered with seaweeds, but are rarely found on muddy ground. They
are most numerous in the channels where the current is strong. The small
oysters are generally loosely attached by the byssus to rock, gravel or other
shells; while the mature ones lie loosely on the bottom or slightly turned in
the sand.
The second species of the Australian pearl-oysters, Margaritifera
margaritifera, is smaller, rarely exceeding eight inches in diameter and a
weight of two pounds. The distinguishing characteristic is the black edge
bordering the inner surface of the shell, whence it acquired the local
designation “black lip.” This variety is not rare in Queensland, and in
Western Australia its range extends as far as Champion Bay in Lat. 29° S.
However, the catch is small compared with that of the Margaritifera
maxima, amounting to only two or three per cent. in Queensland. In 1905,
the export of “silver lip” and “golden-edged” from Thursday Island was 527
tons, and of “black lip” only 11 tons; in 1904, these figures were 778 and 7
respectively. In Western Australia the percentage of yield is much larger
than this.
The third species, Margaritifera carcharium, is confined almost entirely
to the limits of Sharks Bay, on the extreme western coast of Australia. At
maturity it is the smallest of the three, averaging three or four inches in
diameter, and about equals in size the Lingah pearl-oyster of the Persian

Page 254

Gulf. The percentage of pearls therefrom is relatively greater than from the
larger variety; but, owing to its small size and lack of thickness, the shell is
of little commercial value. The value of the output in recent years has
approximated two or three thousand pounds sterling, which is very much
less than formerly, the value of the shell having greatly decreased since the
introduction of the Mississippi shell in button manufacture.
The pearl fishery on the coast of Australia originated about 1861. It
appears that an American sailor named Tays was the pioneer in the
business; and on his death by drowning, the business was conducted by his
partner named Seubert.[249] This was on the northwest coast, and the output
reached the market by way of Singapore. At first the oysters were so
abundant in shallow water that they could be picked up at low tide, and
beach-combing was profitable, especially when carried on with cheap
native labor. As the beach-beds became exhausted, the natives were
encouraged to wade out to greater depths, and soon they became
accustomed to “bob under” for those oysters visible from the surface. The
Australian blacks were thus taught to dive, and in 1867 diving from boats in
two or three fathoms was attempted with such success that in the following
year the practice was generally adopted, the depth in which they worked
gradually extending to six or eight fathoms. In diving from a boat, the men
imitated “bobbing under” which they had practised in shoaler water; they
slipped off the gunwale feet foremost, and when six or eight feet below the
surface, turned and swam downward.
Owing to the close labor relations existing between the natives and the
sheep-raisers of northwestern Australia, the latter were brought into the
business, and for a number of years pearling and sheep-raising were closely
associated. The blacks were employed in various duties in connection with
raising and shearing sheep, and it was important to find some occupation
for them when ranch-work was slack, not only for their own subsistence but
for the protection of the herdsmen and their property. Fortunately, this
opportunity was furnished by the pearl fishery, for which these men were
well qualified.
The profits of the business soon attracted many outside capitalists, and it
became difficult to procure divers. Not only did the pearlers—and
particularly new-comers—resort to impressing the blacks into service, but

Page 255

skilled fishermen were brought over from the Malay Archipelago, and in
some cases the methods used in securing them were by no means regular.
In 1871 the Northwest pearl fishery gave employment to 12 vessels of 15
to 50 tons each, and yielded about 180 tons of mother-of-pearl. During the
same year, in Torres Straits, where the industry had extended about 1868,
there were 10 vessels—mostly from the port of Sydney—and the catch of
mother-of-pearl approximated 200 tons, valued at £60,000 in London.[250]
Each vessel was commonly manned by two or three white men and from
ten to fifty divers, who worked from dinghys, in gangs of six or eight each
with an overseer in charge.
As the fishery increased rapidly in extent, the problem of securing nude
divers became a serious one, and “nigger hunting” became rather common,
the Australian black man representing the cheapest form of labor, working
for his food, tobacco, and the simplest articles of clothing. There was no
complaint that the men thus impressed were treated with inhumanity; on the
contrary they were well fed and cared for; yet, with a view to protecting
them and preventing even a suspicion of wrong-doing, the Australian
government enacted regulations restricting pearling contracts with the
natives. Nearly every year these regulations became more stringent,
affecting the hours for diving, and limiting the work to depths of six and a
half fathoms, so that the employment of Australian aborigines in the fishery
became extremely troublesome and annoying.
The government of the Netherlands also placed severe restrictions on the
employment of natives of the Dutch Indies, requiring security of £20 per
head for the repatriation of each man; and the local chiefs or rajahs also
expected a rake-off before permitting their men to ship. These Malays—
from the islands of Solor, Allor, Adonare, etc.,—also expected much better
pay and better provisions than the Australian blacks.
The following interesting account by Henry Taunton gives a graphic
description of the fishery as carried on at that time:
The work was far from easy. It was exhausting and perilous for the divers, and full of privation,
exposure, and danger for the white men. Only the hope of a prosperous season reconciled one to the
life. When shells were plentiful and the weather fine, the work was exciting and interesting enough;
but during rough weather, when one had to be constantly straining at the oar to keep the dinghy from
drifting too rapidly, or when hour after hour might pass without the men bringing up a single shell,
the discouragement was great. The rays of the vertical sun beating down on one’s shoulders at such
times seemed as if it would never reach the western horizon, which was the signal for returning on
board.

Page 256

As may well be imagined, when three or four white men had to control and compel some thirty or
forty natives to carry on work which they detested, a very strict discipline had to be maintained. It
was the rule that no talking was allowed amongst the divers when in the dinghy, nor were they even
permitted to address the white man, unless, maybe, to answer a question as to the nature of the
bottom, whether nanoo (sand) or bannin (shelly bottom), etc., or unless some urgent necessity arose.
Sometimes, indeed, I have pushed off from the vessel’s side of a morning and have not heard a word
spoken until we returned on board at night, unless chance might take me within hail of some other
dinghy, when felicitations or condolences would be exchanged, as good or bad luck might happen. At
times, when the “patch” was small, the dinghys of the whole fleet might be congregated on a very
small area, in which case the scene was animated enough. On all sides you could see divers slipping
into the water and others just coming to the surface, puffing, blowing, and coughing to clear their
eyes, ears, and mouth from the salt water—some with, others without shells. Others would be
swimming to regain their dinghy or squatting in their places for the few minutes’ rest permitted, and,
if the wind were at all fresh, shivering with cold; for although the weather might be extremely hot,
the constant plunging in and out for many hours at a time tended to reduce the bodily temperature
considerably. The white men would be seen standing up in each dinghy. They were lightly clad, with
shirt sleeves and trousers rolled up, in all varieties and colours of costume, from the regulation shirt,
trousers, and felt hat, with leather belt sustaining sheath-knife and pouch, to the more comfortable
pyjama suit, or even the Malay sarong. Some would be straining hard at the end of the scull-oar,
forcing the boat against wind and tide in the endeavor to keep it as long as possible on the “patch,”
which was marked by the discoverer’s buoy, which also might be observed nodding on the surface,
and canted over by the swiftly rushing tide. Others, their men all being below, just kept the dinghy’s
head to wind until, by judicious use of the oar and well-calculated drifting, all the divers reappear on
the surface within a short distance from their own boat. This is the secret of saving the divers from
wasting their powers and time uselessly.... As may be supposed, where the tide sweeps the divers
along the bottom at the rate of three or four or even six miles an hour, they have to be very smart in
seeking and grabbing any shell within reach. I have never tested them with a time-keeper; but by
counting seconds on many occasions, from the moment a diver’s head sank below until it again came
above the surface, I estimated the average time under water was fifty-seven seconds. Part of this is of
course expended in swimming to the bottom, where they can remain only a very few seconds, as time
must be allowed for reaching the surface before letting go their breath. Practice in ever-varying
depths enables them to gauge this limit of time to a nicety. But sometimes they cut things too fine,
and then a catastrophe was inevitable, unless much watchfulness was exercised by the white man,
who has to keep his eyes turned in all directions once his men are down. So long as a diver can hold
his breath the pressure forces him to the surface at a speed which seldom requires accelerating by
strokes with the hands or feet; but the moment he lets go his breath—if under water—his upward
course is arrested and his body commences to sink. Now, when the white man sees this, either he
must plunge in to the rescue himself, or direct such divers who may be on the top to do the needful.
On a calm day, when one can see far into the blue clear depths below, I have often seen one of my
men shooting rapidly upwards until within perhaps a foot or two from the surface, when a sudden
gush of bubbles from the man’s mouth would tell its own tale. Instantly he would begin to sink gently
downwards, and only quick action could save this diver who had miscalculated his time. However, as
it was not infrequent for divers to go down and never come up at all, one may conclude that, where
the time to be allowed is comprised in so few seconds, even the most experienced make fatal errors.
[251]

The difficulties in securing labor at length resulted in experiments with
the scaphander or diving dress, and gradually its adoption by most of the
pearling fleet. The labor problem and the exhaustion of the oysters in

Page 257

medium depths developed more quickly in Torres Straits than on the
northwest coast, and diving outfits were introduced there about 1879, while
this was delayed about five years longer on the northwest coast. The outfit
did not immediately supplant nude diving in either locality. In 1883, only
80 of the 206 Queensland vessels were supplied with scaphanders, the
others continuing to use nude diving, and even yet nearly one third of the
vessels depend on that form of fishery. Of the 353 vessels fishing in 1904,
108 depended on nude divers and 245 were supplied with armored
equipment.
In 1881 the Queensland government took cognizance of the rapidly
developing industry, and enacted a license system and other regulations. For
every boat under two tons an annual license fee of £1 (in 1886 this was
reduced to ten shillings) was enacted, and for every vessel of ten tons or
under, the sum of £3, with an additional amount for vessels in excess of that
measurement; but not exceeding £20 in any case.[252] In 1886 it was required
by the Queensland government that every person employed “as a diver, and
using a diving apparatus,” must be licensed annually, for which a fee of £1
is exacted.[253] And in 1891 it was required that “every diving dress and air-
pump and all air-tubes and gear used in the fishery in connection with
diving must be submitted to an inspector for examination once at least in
every period of six months.”[254] The license system was adopted in Western
Australia in 1886, a fee of £1 per annum being exacted for each vessel
engaged in the fishery.[255] In 1891, South Australia adopted the license
system, requiring that every boat of two tons or under should pay ten
shillings, and that each boat over that measurement should pay twenty
shillings.
With a view to protecting the reefs, the government of Queensland in
1891 enacted a law forbidding the sale or removal—except for cultivation
purposes—of any pearl shell “of the kind scientifically known as
Meleagrina margaritifera, and of either of the varieties commonly known
as ‘golden-edged’ and ‘silver lip,’ of which the nacre or mother-of-pearl
measures less than six inches from the butt or hinge to the opposite edge or
lip, but this does not apply to the variety commonly called ‘dwarf-
shell.’”[256] Owing to the difficulty in enforcing this regulation, the size
restriction was reduced in 1897 to five inches from the hinge to the opposite
lip, or six and one half inches exteriorly, shells of this size weighing
approximately one pound. It is claimed that many oysters less than five

Page 258

inches in length are raised, opened for pearls, and then cast back into the
water.[257] In 1899 the governor of South Australia interdicted the capture in
the waters of that territory of any shell of “Meleagrina margaritifera
measuring less than four inches from the butt or hinge to the opposite edge
or lip.” Competent evidence exists that a good-sized pearl has been found in
an oyster measuring one inch in diameter.

Pearling boats at Hiqueru, Tuamotu Archipelago

Australian pearl-diver (armored) coming up from the depths

Page 259

The fishermen of Western Australia rendezvous at Broome, about one
thousand miles by water north of Perth, the nearest railway station. With
only a thousand or so inhabitants, under normal conditions, this is a scene
of great activity, and bears a reputation of being no Sunday-school when the
fishermen are in, with tons of shell and many a pickle bottle more or less
full of pearls. Cossack and Onslow are also important stations.
In 1905, 340 luggers and 25 schooners were employed in the pearl
fisheries of Western Australia, exclusive of Sharks Bay. Of this number
about 85 per cent. hailed from Broome. The schooners ranged in size from
13 to 133 tons, and the luggers were mostly about 12 tons, with a minimum
of 3 and a maximum of 14 tons. The total number of fishermen
approximated 2900, a medley of races, Japanese, Malays, Chinese, Arabs,
native aboriginals and South Sea Islanders working together more or less
harmoniously. The yield consisted of 1394 tons of mother-of-pearl, with a
declared value of £146,225, and about £50,000 worth of pearls, a total of
£196,255 for the year, which was an increase of £32,286 over 1904.[258]
The headquarters for the fishery of the Northern Territory of South
Australia are at Port Darwin. In 1905 this fishery employed forty-nine sail
vessels and two canoes manned by Europeans, and two proas and twelve
canoes manned by Malays. The crews, numbering about 375, consisted
mainly of Malays, Japanese and Filipinos. In 1905, 42 per cent. were
Malays, 24 per cent. were Japanese, and 20 per cent. were Filipinos. Owing
to the low price of pearl shell, the fishery was not prosecuted actively, and
many of the Asiatics left for the pearling reefs at the Aru Islands. The total
value of pearl shells reported among the exports for that year was £18,526;
during the preceding year it was £28,391. No record is available for the
value of the pearls.
The Queensland pearling fleet has its rendezvous at Port Kennedy,
Thursday Island, which was originally maintained by the British, the
Queensland, and the New South Wales governments as a harbor of refuge
for mariners. Politically this port is important as the strategic key to the
northeast of Australia, but its prosperity is almost wholly dependent on the
pearl-oyster fishery. The population approximates 1600, consisting largely
of Japanese, Malays, Cingalese, Pacific islanders, and Australian
aborigines, with specimens from nearly every Asiatic and European
nationality, and some from America and Africa. The Japanese predominate,

Page 260

their influx dating from 1891; and at present the industry is largely
dependent on these Scotchmen of the Orient for its most skilful workmen.
The heterogeneous nationalities, and the abundance of sand-flies,
mosquitos, etc., make this island rather less desirable as a place of residence
than it is interesting from a political and ethnological point of view.
The Queensland fishery in 1905 employed 348 vessels, and yielded 543
tons of shell, according to the government returns. In 1904, 353 vessels
were engaged, and the catch was 798 tons of shell.
During the last fifteen years there has been a very steady decrease in the
average catch of pearl-oysters per boat in the Australian fishery. The
average catch in the Queensland fleet in 1890 approximated 7 tons per boat;
from 1898 to 1903 it was about 3 tons annually; in 1904 it was only 2¼
tons, and in 1905 a trifle more than 1½ tons. The yearly increasing number
of boats would naturally lower the average, but the decrease is generally
ascribed to the denudation of the reefs, due to close working for thirty-five
years without giving them a chance to recuperate.
The small yield in Queensland in 1904 and 1905 was due largely ta the
extended rough weather and the accompanying thick or muddy water,
which presented an obstacle to the prosecution of the work. Mr. Hugh
Milman, the government resident at Thursday Island, states that each year
the beds in the more sheltered spots have been extensively fished, rendering
it necessary for the fleet to go farther afield in places where the depth of
water is greater, and where the vessels are more exposed to the full force of
the southeast winds which prevail for about seven months of the year, and
which were unusually severe in 1905.[259] The general denudation of the
beds is not the principal cause of the decreased take. An additional cause for
the falling off in 1905 was the deflection of a large percentage of the fleet to
new fields of operation, 110 vessels leaving for the Aru Islands in the
Arafura Sea, when the season was about half finished.
For vessels using diving apparatus, the season continues throughout the
year, but it is frequently interrupted by storms, which may cause the boats
to lie in harbor for ten days, or even two weeks at a time. The nude divers
suspend work from December to March, and also during the season of
gales.
Each vessel is manned by a diver, his attendant, and a crew of four men,
who in pairs take alternate shifts at the manual pump for supplying air to

Page 261

the diver. The entire force of men take part in managing the vessel and in
caring for the catch. The vessel is provided with full equipment and
supplies of food, water, etc., to last two or three weeks, depending on the
distance of the fishing grounds from the shore station, or the frequency of
trips made by a supply vessel.
Except a number of owners and their representatives, there are now very
few white persons engaged in pearling in Australian waters. Even the
persons in charge of the vessels are largely natives of the Pacific Islands.
Owing to the hardships encountered and the small remuneration, it is
difficult to secure white labor; and aliens from Japan, the Philippines, Java,
Singapore, India and New Guinea, are employed.
The divers are of many nationalities, principally Japanese and Malays,
and the former are said to be the most efficient. Previous to 1890, they were
mostly whites, and were paid at the rate of £40 per ton of shells; but
increased competition and the influx of cheaper labor caused a considerable
decrease in the rate of compensation, driving most of the white men out of
the employment. At present the Japanese almost monopolize the business.
Of the 367 divers licensed at Thursday Island in 1905, 291 were Japanese,
32 were Filipinos, 21 were from Rotuma Island, 16 were Malays, and 7
were of other nationalities; this shows how completely the white man has
been driven out of this skilled branch of labor.
The oysters are so scattered that considerable walking is necessary to find
them. They usually lie with the shells partly open, and in grasping them the
fisherman must be careful not to insert a finger within the open shell, or a
very bad pinch will result. The progress of the vessel must be adapted to
that of the diver, and when a good clump of oysters is found it may even be
desirable to anchor. If the current and wind are just right, the vessel may
repeatedly drift over a bed, the diver ascending and remaining on board
while the vessel is retracing its course to the windward side of the reef. On
new grounds, the nature of the bottom is determined by casting the lead
properly tipped with soap or tallow, and the prospects for oysters thus
determined without descending.
During good weather and in eight or ten fathoms of water, a diver can
work almost continually, and need not return to the surface for two hours or
more; but as the depth increases, the length of time he may remain at the
bottom in safety decreases almost in geometric ratio, and he comes to the

Page 262

surface frequently for a “blow” with helmet removed. Evidence secured by
a departmental commission of the Queensland government in 1897, showed
that in good weather at a depth of eight or ten fathoms, a diver works from
sunrise to sunset, coming to the surface only a few times. In a depth of over
fifteen fathoms the attendant usually has instructions not to let him remain
longer than fifteen minutes at a time; yet a diver’s eagerness in working
where good shell is plentiful sometimes impels him to order the attendant to
disregard this rule. The very great pressure of the water—amounting to
thirty-nine pounds or more to the square inch—is liable to cause paralysis,
and death occasionally results. In working at a depth of twenty to twenty-
five fathoms, a diver is rarely under water longer than half an hour
altogether during the day. The greatest depth from which shell is brought
appears from the same evidence to be “30 fathoms and a little over”; but at
that depth—where the pressure is seventy-eight pounds to the square inch—
the fisherman remains down only a few minutes at a stretch, and should be
exceedingly careful. The work is injurious, and even under the best
conditions the diver not infrequently becomes semi-paralyzed and
disqualified in a few years. Notwithstanding that the work is performed by
men in vigorous health, nearly every year there are from ten to twenty-five
deaths in the Queensland fleet alone;[260] three fourths of these are due to
paralysis, and most of the remaining result from suffocation, owing largely
to inexperience in use of gear. From five to ten years is the usual length of a
man’s diving career, although in the fleet may be found men who have been
diving for twenty-five years or more.
On the vessels manned by Japanese, commonly several members of the
crew are competent divers and take a turn at the work, although only one
license is secured. Such a vessel carries only one head-piece, but two
otherwise complete suits, the helmet fitting either, so that as soon as one
exhausted diver comes up to rest, a successor is ready to have the helmet
screwed to his body-dress and descend without delay, thus saving about half
an hour in the changing.
The nude divers in the Australian pearl fisheries are mostly Malays and
Australian aborigines. They work from dinghys operated from a vessel,
each dinghy carrying six or eight divers, usually with a white man as
overseer. The man in charge sculls against the tide to keep the boat
stationary over the ground, and all the fishermen of a particular dinghy
descend together for greater safety from sharks, and to cover the ground

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systematically. On rising, each diver swims to the boat, throws his catch
over the gunwale, and climbs in to rest for a few minutes. Sometimes two
or possibly even three oysters may be brought up at a single descent, but a
diver is doing well if he brings up one oyster in ten descents. The average
daily catch of each man is probably two or three oysters, but a fisherman
has been known to bring up fifty in one day. On some vessels, those who
fall behind in the catch are punished by extra duty aboard ship.
The pearling industry has had a marked effect on the industrial and social
condition of the natives of the Australian coast and the adjacent islands.
Many of these natives now have boats of their own, and others seek
employment on other vessels. Law and order and decent respect for
property have arisen, with schools and churches. The result is all the more
remarkable when it is considered that scarcely more than a generation has
passed since labor among the men was unknown, the women doing all the
work necessary to meet their scanty requirements.
As now carried on in Australia, pearling is a hard life, the men working
for two thirds of the season in a dead calm and oppressive heat, while in the
remaining months they are rolling day and night. The members of the crew
are not allowed ashore without a written permission from the captain of the
boat, and men and luggage are searched on leaving the vessel. In addition to
these objections, life on board is not unusually made intensely disagreeable
by the myriads of inch-long cockroaches, which are attracted by and
multiply rapidly on the shreds of muscle left on the pearl shell stored in the
hold. Storms are frequent on the coast. In February, 1899, three schooners
and eighty smaller vessels were wrecked, and eleven white and four
hundred colored men were drowned.
At the end of each day’s fishing, the oysters are cleaned of submarine
growths. Sometimes this is by no means an easy task, as many of the shells
are so covered with weeds, coral, and sponge as to bear little resemblance to
oysters. After they have been scrubbed and the edges have been chipped,
they are washed and stored on deck. Early the following morning they are
opened and examined for pearls. This opening is done carefully to avoid
injury to any pearl that may be within. The hinge of the shell is placed on
the deck and a broad knife forced down so as to sever the adductor muscle,
causing the shells to spring open and permitting the removal of the soft
parts. The flesh is carefully examined, both by sight and by feeling, to

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locate all pearls, which are picked out by hand and placed in a suitable
receptacle. Within the adductor muscle are found seed-pearls and small
baroques; the large pearls are found embedded in the mantle, where their
presence may be detected as soon as the shell is opened, the pearly gleam
contrasting with the light blue of the mantle. Sometimes, though rarely,
large pearls are found loose within the shell, whence they roll out when the
shell is opened. Valuable pearls are occasionally removed from blisters on
the surface of the shell, or from within the body of the nacre itself. Even
when empty, these blisters are valuable, and are especially adapted for
brooches and other ornaments requiring a broad and relatively flat surface.
After the flesh has been carefully examined throughout, it is discarded, as
it is not considered suitable for food, and the shell is dried for half a day or
so to make the hinge brittle in order that it may be broken without injury to
the mother-of-pearl. After the shell has been roughly cleaned, it is placed in
the hold, if the vessel is operating from a shore station, as is commonly the
case in Torres Straits. Since long exposure to the sun affects the quality of
the mother-of-pearl, it is important that it be kept under cover. On returning
to the station, it is thoroughly cleaned, assorted, dried, the dark edges
clipped off, and the cleaned shell is packed in shipping cases, each
containing from 250 to 325 pounds. On the west coast, where the vessels at
times operate 200 or 300 miles from port, the shell is cleaned, assorted and
crated on the vessels; whence it may be delivered direct to the steamers.
The Northwest shell is somewhat smaller than the mature shell of Torres
Straits, averaging about 1100 to the ton, whereas that of Thursday Island
runs about 725 to the ton.
It is very difficult to prevent the theft of pearls by the fishermen as they
are liable to treat them as perquisites if not carefully watched. Indeed, on
the Torres Straits vessels it has come about that pearls do not constitute a
recognized source of income to the proprietors. There the fishery is now
conducted almost exclusively for the shells, as the wage-earners secrete
probably as many valuable pearls as they turn over to the rightful owners.
The hot sun causes many of the oysters to open, and deft fingers quickly
pick out such pearls as may be visible. An oyster may be induced to open its
shell by being held near the galley fire on the lugger, and the insertion of a
piece of cork holds it open while a pearl is shaken out or hooked out by
means of a piece of wire. Then the cork is removed and the oyster closes
again with no evidence of robbery. The proprietors of boats who themselves

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open the oysters almost invariably secure larger yields of fine pearls than
those who depend on paid employees, who rarely have the luck to find
choice pearls, judging from what they turn in. The government of
Queensland has endeavored to put a stop to pearl stealing, and by
enactment[261] of 1891, it restricted all selling or buying of pearls within the
fishing region except through regularly licensed dealers, whose transactions
are open to examination.
But the fishermen seem to have little difficulty in evading the laws, and
throughout the fleet the men have become so adept that they regard the
pearls as their contraband perquisites. And the ease with which these may
be secreted is surpassed only by the facility with which they may be sold,
notwithstanding legislation to the contrary. Indeed, some employers make
no claim to the pearls found, thus enabling them to secure fishermen at
lower rates of wages.
As previously noted, the pearls constitute only an incidental catch in the
fisheries on the Australian coast, but in the aggregate the yield is very large.
The yield in the northwest Australian fishery in 1906 is estimated at
£50,000, local valuation; in the Queensland fishery £33,000; in that of
South Australia £5000, a total of £88,000 or $440,000.[262] Relatively few
seed-pearls are obtained, and some of the pearls are of great size. Some
beautiful specimens have been found, but usually they have less luster and
are more irregular in form than the Persian or the Indian output.
Among the remedies suggested for improving the condition of the
Australian pearl reefs may be mentioned the establishment of six inches as
the minimum size of the shell that may be taken (five inches is now
permitted in Queensland, and there is no restriction in Western Australia),
the closure of certain areas for stated periods from time to time, and a limit
on the number of vessels employed. The government resident at Thursday
Island, Mr. Hugh Milman, who has had long acquaintance with the industry,
strongly recommends the adoption of a system of artificial culture; and in
the meantime, to foster the industry, “licenses should be granted to a
reduced number of boats and certain sheltered areas should be closed
altogether for a few years to give the beds time to recover. This latter
procedure, however, the pearlers themselves are not in favor of, as they are
of the opinion that the weather conditions against which they have to

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contend are sufficient protection to prevent the denudation of the principal
grounds.”
A few years ago certain areas in Torres Straits were proclaimed closed for
a period against the removal of pearl shell; but, owing to the want of
effective patrol, the shell was poached to a very large extent, and
consequently the good that should have resulted from the experiment was
not apparent. Owing to the impracticability of continuous patrol, and the
want of proper legislation to bring die offenders to book, it was decided to
remove the restrictions.
The Sharks Bay fishery, to which we have previously referred,[263] is
prosecuted by means of small sail-boats using light dredges, except in the
case of the very shallow or “pick-up banks,” where the oysters are
commonly removed by hand. Some years ago this fishery was of much
local importance; but the developing scarcity of the oysters, and the present
low value of this grade of shell in Europe, due to the competition with
Mississippi shell, have resulted in a great reduction. In 1905, the industry
gave employment to 17 small boats and 42 men, of whom 18 were
Europeans, 13 Asiatics, and 11 aboriginal natives. The yield of pearls,
according to official report of the government of Western Australia,
approximated £2000 in value, and of pearl shell there was 88 tons, with a
declared value of £607. In 1896 the government of Western Australia
surveyed the Sharks Bay reefs, and opened them to preëmption in small
areas for cultivating this species of pearl-oyster. At present they are mostly
held under exclusive licenses for a period of fourteen years. The business is
under an elaborate system of regulations; but as appears from the above
figures the results have not been important.
Pearls are more numerous in this pearl-oyster than in the two other
Australian species. In removing them from the flesh, a modification of the
Ceylon process is adopted. The mollusks are opened by means of a knife,
and the contents of the shells are placed in vats or tubs—known locally as
“poogie tubs”; and, exposed to the hot sun, are allowed to putrefy. Sea
water is added, and the putrid mass stirred; after several days the water and
the thoroughly disintegrated flesh tissues are decanted, leaving the pearls at
the bottom. The odor from a number of these “poogie tubs” is said to almost
rival that of the “washing toddies” at Marichchikadde.

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The Sharks Bay pearls are commonly yellowish or straw-colored, and
sometimes have a beautiful golden tinge. Although obtained from small
shells, they are sometimes of considerable size—twenty grains or more in
weight, and fine specimens sell for several hundred dollars each. China and
India furnish better markets for them than Europe or America.

Page 268

PEARL FISHERIES OF THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO
My thoughts arise and fade in solitude;
The verse that would invest them melts away
Like moonlight in the heaven of spreading day.
How beautiful they were, how firm they stood,
Flecking the starry sky like woven pearl.

Shelley, My Thoughts.

Opening pearl-oysters and searching for pearls, off the coast
of Australia

Page 269

Grading, weighing, and packing mother-of-pearl, off the
coast of Australia

For nearly four hundred years, pearls and pearl shells have been the most
beautiful objects which have reached the outside world from the many
islands of the Malay Archipelago. On his visit to this part of the world in
1520, Pigopitta, a companion of Magalhães, reported pearls among the
prized possessions of the natives. The fisheries have never been of great
importance, although the reefs are widely scattered throughout the
archipelago, and the possibilities seem favorable for very great
development. Thomas de Comyn stated a century ago, that pearl fisheries
had been undertaken “from time to time about Mindanao, Zebu, and some
of the smaller islands, but with little success and less regularity, not because
of a scarcity of fine pearls, but on account of a lack of skill of the divers and
their well-established dread of sharks.”[264]
Giacinto Gemmi,[265] writing of Philippine pearls, repeats a strange tale
from the “Storia de Mindanao” by the Jesuit father, Combes, to the effect
that in a certain spot, under many fathoms of water, there was a pearl of
inestimable value, as large as an egg; but, although the king’s ministers had
made every effort to have it secured, they had always been unsuccessful.
During the last thirty years, pearls and pearl shells have been secured
from most of the inshore waters of Malaysia, but the output has not been so
regular or so extensive as the conditions seem to warrant. Our observation
leads to the conviction that this is not due so much to lack of skill on the
part of the divers, or to their dread of sharks, mentioned by Comyn; but to

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the fact that foreign capital, attracted to this part of the world, has found
more security and profit in developing plantations, and the natives have not
had sufficient enterprise to systematize and develop the fishery resources.
Throughout Malaysia, including the Philippine Islands, the pearl is
known as mutya, mootara, or a similar name, closely resembling the
Sanskrit mukta or the Cingalese mootoo, indicating the source of the
influence originating the fishery and trade.
The most widely-known pearl fisheries of Malaysia are in the Sulu
Archipelago, a group of islands comprising about 1000 square miles in area,
and containing a population of 100,000. The beautiful yellow pearls shared
with the many acts of piracy in attracting attention to this group previous to
1878, when the islands were brought under the influence of Spanish rule;
and since the Spanish-American War, pearl fishing has been the leading
industry, though it has received less attention from outside sources, perhaps,
than has the existence of slavery and harems as part of the social system.
Writing in 1820, John Crawfurd stated that the annual export of pearls
from Sulu Islands to China approximated 25,000 Spanish dollars in value,
and the mother-of-pearl similarly exported was worth 70,000 dollars.
“Considering the turbulent and piratical habits of the natives of the Sulu
group, it is certain that a greater share of skill and industry than can at
present be applied to the fisheries, would greatly enhance the value and
amount of their produce.”[266]
In the Sulu Archipelago, the pearl-oyster reefs exist from Sibǔtu Pass to
Basilan Strait, and roughly cover an estimated area of 15,000 square miles;
that is, in the most favorable localities throughout this area, pearl-oysters
occur to a greater or less extent. The fisheries are prosecuted by Malays and
Chinese, and are largely centered at Sulu.
Pearl-oysters occur about many other islands. They exist at Maimbun and
Parong; and also off the island of Tapul and its neighbor Lagos, both
southwest of Maimbun. In the channels among these islands, on the rocky
gravelly bottom where there is a good current, oysters are commonly found.
They also occur off Laminusa, northeast of Tawi-Tawi, at Cuyo Island, and
in the waters about Malampaya and Bacuit.
The large mother-of-pearl oyster (Margaritifera maxima) known locally
as concha de nacr, is by far the most abundant. When full-grown in this
region it is ordinarily between ten and thirteen inches in diameter. The

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young oyster attaches itself to the bottom by means of the green byssus; but
after attaining a weight of one pound, it is too heavy to be easily moved by
the tide, and the ligature gradually disappears. The Australian “black lip”
(Margaritifera margaritifera), known here as concha de nagra, is also
found. In these waters it attains a diameter of about eight inches, but most
specimens are considerably smaller.
There is another pearly shell in the Philippines, a spiral gasteropod
known locally as caracoles, which is ordinarily five or six inches in
diameter, and has a beautiful pearly surface. This yields very few pearls; it
is sought for pearl-button manufacture, selling for about the same as the
concha de nagra.
Streeter states that it is declared by the natives of the Sulu Archipelago
that pearls of a yellowish hue have been found in the pearly nautilus
(Nautilus pompilius), one of the group of cephalopodous mollusks. As,
however, there is a superstition that they bring ill luck, the natives say that
they throw them away, believing that any one who should fight while
wearing one of these pearls in a ring, would certainly be killed. If we
consider the habits and organism of this remarkable animal, and the
splendid nacreous coating of its shell, the assertion that pearls are found in
it seems quite natural. Indeed, the occurrence of pearls in the pearly nautilus
is generally recognized.
For many years the successive sultans of Sulu exercised authority over
the fisheries and—in addition to exacting certain percentages and presents
from the fishermen—claimed as their perquisites all pearls exceeding a
designated weight. The fisheries were prosecuted by nude divers, of whom
there were a large number. A Chinese company had been particularly
fortunate in its relations with the Sulus, and had an extensive equipment in
the fishery, consisting of a number of small vessels, each carrying a crew of
seven men, who used diving-suits. In addition to these, some of the native
Moros owned boats from which diving-suits were employed.
Following the Spanish-American War and the transfer of the Philippine
Islands to America, several vessels proceeded to engage in the fisheries
without previously consulting the representatives of the Sultan of Sulu. This
called forth from that official an appeal to the American authorities for
protection in his claims. He gave an account of the pearl fishery in this
interesting document, which we quote at length—through the courtesy of

Page 272

the American Bureau of Insular Affairs—because of the light it throws, not
only on the industry, but also on the characteristics of these people with
whom the American government is now dealing.

Page 273

STATEMENT MADE BY THE SULTAN OF SULU
RELATIVE TO THE PEARL FISHERIES

(Forwarded by the Governor of Moro Province.)
[Translation.]

(Seal of the Sultan.)
No date.

I beg to inform my father, the civil governor, Major Scott, as you want to know about the mother-
of-pearl shell, why it is the right of all Sulu people, above all my own right, this is the reason:
The forefathers of the Sulu people used to take the mother-of-pearl shell from the downs because
the mother-of-pearl shell belonged to the downs, and they took them to eat the oyster with other food;
of the shell they made plates and saucers to put the food on, and the pearls they used to make a hole
through and put them on a string as necklaces for their children. This was at a time when no other
nation had come to Sulu to buy the mother-of-pearl shell.
Later, a big boat, called the Sampang, wandered from China to Sulu; there were on board many
people, all Chinese; it was loaded with merchandise. The people came ashore and saw the mother-of-
pearl shell which the Sulu people were carrying. The captain of the boat said: “Have you many more
of these things?” and the people answered, “Plenty; this is what we take from the downs to eat with
other food.” The Captain said. “Gather me plenty. I will buy them from you.” The people went and
gathered them and bartered them for plates and saucers. When all the shells from the downs were
finished they looked into the deep, and that is how they found the pearling grounds, and the people
noted them, and remembered them. This is what they agreed upon; whoever finds pearling grounds
they belong to him from generation to generation. That is what they agreed upon. That is the reason
why the Sulu people have the right, and that they came to make the dredge (badja) to get the mother-
of-pearl shell from the deep, because they can not see them.
Later Salips came from Mecca of the Arab nation; they came to Sulu to convert the people into
Mohammedans, as they had no religion. And when the Sulu people, including the islanders, adopted
the faith, then they agreed to have a sultan and they elected Saripul Hassim to be sultan. Saripul
Hassim said: “I don’t want you to make me your sultan if I do not know what the rights of the sultan
are, and who I have to govern over, because this is not my country, this is your country.”
And this is how everybody agreed to accept him as sultan over Sulu and all the islands; this is how
he became Sultan and governed over all, and this is how Saripul Hassim accepted to be the sultan of
Sulu, to have full power over land and sea, and the people’s rights, where they got their living from
on land and sea, were left to them, because they were the means of their getting their livelihood.
But a law was made, if they found valuables in the sea, such as pearls, tortoise shell, ambal or
anything extraordinary, they have to show it to the sultan, and if the pearls weigh six chuchuk or over
they become the share of the sultan; if they do not have that weight, the people can do with them as
they please and sell them. If the sultan wants them, he will buy them according to custom. As to
tortoise shell, if they weigh two ketties, they go to the sultan, and as to the ambal, whether it is much
or little, it falls to the sultan. Whoever finds it must take it to the sultan. Whoever of his subjects
violates this law as agreed upon, the sultan can punish him as he pleases.

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They accepted this law as agreed upon, to be carried out by them (sultan and people), and their
descendants, and not to be changed; but they asked of the sultan not to let any other nation take a
share in this industry; it is enough for them; and the sultan agreed to this because they did not know
how to earn their living otherwise. This is what the sultan and his subjects agreed to because the Sulu
had no other treasures on land beyond the cultivation; the treasures came from the sea only, therefore
other people are forbidden because this is the property of all my subjects, and especially my own.
Recently, in my time and in the Spanish time, there came to me Captain Tiana; he wanted to dive
for pearl shells. I said “I cannot give you my consent at once because since our forefathers (sultan
and people) we have an agreement, I will confer with my people.” I sent for the chiefs and the dattos
and I told them about it, that Captain Tiana came to me and asked to dive for pearl shells. They said it
cannot be done, because there is an agreement between our forefathers that other nations cannot join
in this industry of the Sulu seas, because there is no other means of earning a living for your subjects.

Moro boats, used among the pearl islands of the Malay
Archipelago

Page 275

Raft used for pearl fishing in the Malay Archipelago

I informed Captain Tiana of it. He said: “Allow me to dive for pearl shells, I will give toll to you as
sultan and I will also give toll to the owners of the pearl grounds according to what we agree upon.”
So I informed all the owners of the pearling ground, and they said, “If he is really in earnest to give
toll to us owners of the ground according to what we agree upon, if we don’t agree, we will not allow
him to fish.” Thereupon Captain Tiana and I went to the Spanish governor to bear witness. The
governor said: “All right; anything you agree upon; I cannot change the law of the Moro people, and
I will not interfere.”
That is how I allowed Captain Tiana to fish, and I gave him a letter of the truth according to
agreement. Therefore if any person of other nation wants to fish for mother-of-pearl shell, he will
have to do as Captain Tiana did, and ask me for a letter of truth, and if he has no letter and does not
pay toll to the owners of the ground, and especially to me, he cannot dive, and if he violates this and
if anything befalls him, I am not responsible and do not want to be held responsible, because the
mother-of-pearl shells are like the property in our boxes given to us by God. They do not go away
from the places where they are put, they are not like fish that go about. Therefore, we forbid it. It is
our heritage from our forefathers.
(Signed) Hadji Mohamad Jamaul Kiram,
Sultan of Sulu.

[Seal of the Sultan.]

Following these representations, the legislative council of the Moro
province, by authority of the Philippine Commission, interdicted all fishing
for pearl-oysters within three marine leagues of any land within the
territorial limits of the Moro province, without license first obtained from
the treasurer of the district within which the vessel carries on the major part
of its operations.[267] No license was to be issued to any vessel not owned in
the Philippine Islands or in the United States, and not wholly owned by
citizens of the United States, by natives of the Philippine Islands, or by

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persons who have acquired the political rights of natives,[268] except that
foreign vessels which for one year immediately preceding had actually
engaged in pearl fishing might secure license to continue therein for a
period of five years thereafter.
Licenses were of two kinds, according to the nature of the fishery. To
engage in fishing with the aid of diving-suits, the fee was five hundred
pesos annually, for each of the greatest number of divers beneath the
surface of the water at any one time. For fishing without submarine armor,
the fee was five pesos annually, for each of the greatest number of nude
divers to be employed by the vessel during any voyage, and the same sum
for each of the greatest number of dredges or rakes to be employed beneath
the surface at any one time; but this did not apply to vessels under 15 tons,
owned and operated wholly by native Moros, until January 1, 1906.
It was also made unlawful to catch or to have in one’s possession within
the Moro province “any pearl shell or any bivalvular or lateral plate, or any
pearl shell of less than 4½ inches in diameter, measured with a flat, rigid
measuring rod along the line of the ligament which joins one binocular or
lateral plate to the other at the hinge, unless the lateral plate of such shell be
more than 7 inches in diameter measured with a flat, rigid measuring rod
from the outer edge of the horny lips to the center of the hinge, the rod
being so placed as to form a right angle with the line of the hinge.”[269]
According to a report furnished by the Mining Bureau at Manila, there
were seven vessels fishing with diving-suits in the Sulu Archipelago in
1905, each representing an investment of about 6000 pesos. In 1906 there
were ten vessels engaged in this industry, and the collection on licenses for
that fiscal year amounted to 3375 pesos. These vessels are mostly small
Moro craft which cannot venture upon distant cruises in the archipelago for
prospecting purposes, and their operations are confined for the most part to
the immediate vicinity of Jolo. Each vessel carries one diver, a tender, a
cook, and four sailors. In addition to food supplies, the sailors and the cook
each receive twelve to fifteen pesos per month, the tender thirty to forty
pesos per month, and the diver the same amount and in addition thereto a
bonus of twenty cents for each shell secured. Near Jolo the vessels work
throughout the year, but farther north very little fishing is done from
December to April, when monsoons prevail. The man in charge of each
vessel is obliged by law to keep an accurate record of the number and

Page 277

weight of shells found, and his figures are checked up by a customs official
at either Jolo or Zamboanga, the ports of discharge.
To enable them to secure pearl-oysters at depths of from twenty to forty
fathoms, the Sulus have long made use of a dredge (badja) peculiarly
constructed of native materials, and admirably adapted to the purpose. This
consists of five or more long wooden teeth slightly curved and spreading
outward, with an expanse at the ends of twenty inches or more. The dredge
is properly balanced by two stones, and a bridle rope is so attached to it
that, when thrown overboard and towed behind a canoe drifting with the
current or the wind, the implement rests on the curve of the teeth, which are
in almost a horizontal position. As the teeth enter the gaping shell of an
oyster lying on the bottom, the animal instantly closes tightly on the
intruder and effects its own capture. The principle is similar to that of the
“crowfoot” dredge of the Mississippi River, although the design of the
implement is radically different. A second rope is attached so as to raise and
lower the implement and to detach it from corals, rocks, and other objects
against which it may catch in its course on the bottom. This dredge is
designed for very deep areas, where the bottom is relatively smooth.
The Moros employ yet another method of fishing, using a magtung-tung
or three-pronged catcher, which is let down by a rattan rope and by means
of which individual shells sighted from the surface are obtained. When the
water is perfectly clear this implement can be operated where the depth is
fifteen or eighteen fathoms, but its use is impractical where the water is
clouded or there is even a slight ripple on the surface.
However, the bulk of the catch is made by the nude divers, of which there
are hundreds at Maimbun, Tapul, Lugus and elsewhere. In their small boats
these Moro fishermen visit the reefs, where the boats are anchored.
Provided only with a short, heavy knife, with which to release the shells
from the bottom or, perchance, as a weapon of defense against sharks and
other fish, they enter the water feet first, but soon turn and descend head
downward, precisely as on the Australian coast, swimming toward the
bottom with bold strokes. The Sulu pearl-divers—and especially those at
Parang, Patian and Sicubun—are among the most expert in the world. They
easily penetrate to twelve fathoms and, if necessary, to eighteen or twenty
fathoms. But they are not very industrious, and seldom descend more than

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twelve or fifteen times a day, preferring rather to go with their wants half
satisfied than to satiate them by more active exertions.
Many descents may be necessary to locate and obtain a single oyster, but
when this is secured the shell alone may ordinarily be traded for sufficient
to supply the fisherman’s needs for several days, and there is always the
chance of a pearl. After a short day of labor, the fishermen return, and the
oysters which they have secured are opened and examined for pearls. After
the flesh has been carefully searched it is placed in the sun to dry and, later,
to be used for food, and the shells are carefully cleaned and placed under
cover until they may be bartered or sold.
The Sulu shell is characterized by a peculiar yellowish tint around the
rim, by means of which it is readily distinguished. Its size and beautiful
iridescence make it very attractive, and for choice individual specimens
high prices are received. It is the largest of the mother-of-pearl shells, single
half-shells of “bold” size average one and one half pounds in weight, while
some attain a weight of six pounds. The body of the shell furnishes the most
beautiful of all mother-of-pearl, yet the necessity for discarding the yellow
rim, or, rather, for using it separate from the rest, makes it unpopular with
manufacturers. The annual product is estimated at 200 tons, valued in
London and New York at $200,000, and of pearls about $30,000 worth.
The Sulu pearls are frequently large and of choice quality, but they are far
more inclined to a yellowish tint than those from Australian waters, 1300
miles southward. The sultans accumulated the finest collection of them, and
some of these found their way into the markets from time to time as the
condition of the exchequer ran low or royal emergency required, as in 1882,
for instance, when it was necessary to defray the expense of Sultan
Buderoodin’s pilgrimage to Mecca. During the last six or seven years, much
has been heard of the present sultan’s collection, which he largely inherited,
and some fairly good specimens have been presented to prominent
Americans.
Pearl-oysters are among the important resources of the inshore waters of
the Dutch East Indies, including the surrounding seas of Sumatra, Java,
Borneo, Celebes, the Aru Islands, the Moluccas or Spice Islands, and Papua
or New Guinea. For very many years the natives have gathered pearl shell
and pearls from these waters, and especially on the coast of the Aru Islands,
at Gilolo or Halmahera, and the islands thereabout, on the east coast of

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Celebes, and about the Sunda group. The collections were made in the
shallow waters by beach-combing and by nude diving, and were bartered
with the Chinese and Arab traders sailing from Singapore, Macassar, and
other ports. Occasionally a pearling vessel from Singapore or from Torres
Straits would try its luck in these waters; but, except for the work of the
natives, the reefs were practically untouched previous to 1883.
As the Australian fleet increased in size and the oysters became scarce in
Torres Straits and on the northwest coast, some of the vessels occasionally
visited the Aru Islands, the coast of Papua, etc. These met with considerable
success and the number of trips increased, especially in 1893, when oysters
were unusually scarce in Australia.
The following year, 1894, the government restricted the fishery to
inhabitants of the Netherlands and of Netherlands India, or to companies
established in those countries and operating under the Dutch flag. Owing to
the activity of Dutch capital in coffee, tobacco and other plantation
enterprises, the pearl resources received very little attention from them. The
success of the Australian fishery encouraged the formation in 1896 of an
Amsterdam company to exploit the Aru grounds; but apparently without
financial success, for it liquidated in 1898.

Pearling village, with youthful fishermen. Sulu Islands

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Japanese diver in Dutch East Indies, come up to “blow” for
a few minutes

In the meantime, residents of these islands paid more and more attention
to the pearl fishery; also Europeans, Chinamen and Arabs arranged with the
native chiefs for fishing in their territorial waters, paying therefor a fixed
sum in cash or a percentage of the catch, which was permitted on approval
by the governor-general of Dutch India. The fleet continued to increase
from year to year, and in 1905 there was a very large influx of vessels from
the Australian fisheries, 110 luggers and 7 tenders coming from Thursday
Island alone.
The species are the same as occur on the northern coast of Australia, the
“silver edge” or “golden lip” (Margaritifera maxima) occurring in greatest
abundance, and the “black lip” (M. margaritifera) to a less extent.
The shells are the principal object of the search, and the pearls found
incidentally form an additional source of revenue. These shells divide with
those of Australia the reputation of being the most valuable in the world.
They are commonly known in the trade by the name of the port from which
they are originally shipped, as Manila, Macassar, Banda, Ceram, Penang,
Mergui, etc. Before the exploitation of the Australian grounds, they sold at
very high prices, and $2000 or more per ton was sometimes realized for
those of the best quality. Singapore is the headquarters for supplies for the
industry in all this region, and it is from that port that the shells and pearls
are mostly distributed.
The pearls obtained in Netherlands India are of choice quality and of
relatively large size, a considerable percentage of them weighing over eight

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grains, and fairly good pearls of fifty grains or more are occasionally
reported. Colored pearls are rarely met with, nearly all of them being clear
white, like the beautiful Macassar shell.
At Pados Bay, island of Borneo, one hundred or more persons find
employment fishing the Placuna oysters, selling the shells for about $2 per
picul (139 pounds to the picul), the dried meats at $4 to $6 a picul, and the
seed-pearls (seleesip) at about $2 per mayam. Many of these pearls are sold
in the village of Batu Batu. When a fisherman buys his few necessaries at
the Chinese shops, he pulls out his little package of seed-pearls and pays in
that currency, the Chinaman making a good profit by the transaction.

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X

AMERICAN PEARLS

VENEZUELA, PANAMA, MEXICO, AMERICAN FRESH WATERS, MISCELLANEOUS

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X
PEARL FISHERIES OF VENEZUELA

When I discovered the Indies, I said that they composed the richest country in the world. I
spake of gold and pearls and precious stones, and the traffic that might be carried on in them.
Extract from Columbus’s Fourth Letter.

T
he Caribbean Sea furnishes one of the most interesting chapters in
the history of the pearl fisheries. In no region of the world have
these resources caused more rapid exploitation or affected the
inhabitants to a greater extent than on the shores of Venezuela.
Before the discovery of America, the natives of this region collected
pearls from the mollusks which they opened for food in times of necessity,
and also sought them for ornamental purposes. And although they had large
collections which they used for personal ornamentation and for decorating
their temples, it does not appear that they prized them extravagantly, readily
bartering them for small returns.
In Columbus’s account of his third and fourth voyages to America, he
repeatedly refers to pearls. On the third voyage, in 1498, after passing the
mouth of the Orinoco River, he entered the Gulf of Paria, where the natives
“came to the ship in their canoes in countless numbers, many of them
wearing pieces of gold on their breasts, and some with bracelets of pearls
on their arms; seeing this I was much delighted and made many inquiries
with the view of learning where they found them. They replied that they
were to be procured in their own neighborhood and also at a spot to the
northward of that place. I would have remained here, but the provisions of
corn, and wine, and meats, which I had brought out with so much care for
the people whom I had left behind, were nearly wasted, so that all my
anxiety was to get them into a place of safety, and not to stop for anything. I
wished, however, to get some of the pearls that I had seen, and with that

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view sent the boats on shore. I inquired there also where the pearls were
obtained. And they likewise directed me to the westward and also to the
north behind the country they occupied. I did not put this information to the
test, on account of the provisions and the weakness of my eyes and because
the ship was not calculated for such an undertaking.”
In his letter to one of the queen’s attendants, written in 1500, Columbus
says, in justification of his conduct toward his miserable detractors: “I
believed that the voyage to Paria would in some degree pacify them
because of the pearls and the discovery of gold in the island of Española. I
left orders for the people to fish for pearls, and called them together and
made an agreement that I should return for them, and I was given to
understand that the supply would be abundant.”
And again in the same letter, after speaking of a quantity of gold which
mysteriously disappeared when Governor Bobadilla sent him and his
brothers loaded with chains to Spain, he says: “I have been yet more
concerned respecting the affair of the pearls, that I have not brought them to
their Majesties.... Already the road is opened to gold and pearls, and it may
surely be hoped that precious stones, spices, and a thousand other things
will also be found.”
A more detailed account of Columbus’s pearling adventures, and of the
subsequent discoveries and explorations on the Caribbean coast is given by
Francisco Lopez de Gomara in his “Historia general de las Indias,”
published in 1554, of which the following is a literal translation slightly
abridged:
Since there are pearls on more than four hundred leagues of this coast between Cape Vela and the
Gulf of Paria, before we proceed farther it is proper to say who discovered them. In the third voyage
made by Christopher Columbus to the Indies, in 1498, having reached the island of Cubagua, which
he called “Isle of Pearls,” he sent a boat with certain sailors to seize a boat of fishermen, to learn
what people they were and for what they were fishing. The sailors reached the shore where the
Indians had landed and were watching. A sailor broke a dish of Malaga ware and went to trade with
them and to look at their catch, because he saw a woman with a string of rough pearls (aljofar) on her
neck. He made an exchange of the plate for some strings of rough pearls, white and large, with which
the sailors returned highly delighted to the ships. To assure himself better, Columbus ordered others
to go with buttons, needles, scissors, and fragments of the same Valencian earthenware, since they
seemed to prize it. These sailors went and brought back more than six marcs (forty-eight ounces) of
rough pearls, large and small, with many good pearls among them. Said Columbus then to the
Spaniards: “We are in the richest country of the world. Let us give thanks to the Lord.” They
wondered at seeing all those rough pearls so large, for they had never seen so many, and could not
contain their delight. They understood that the Indians did not care much for the small ones, either
because they had plenty of large ones, or because they did not know how to pierce them.

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Columbus left the island and approached the land, where many people had collected along the
shore, to see if they also had pearls. The shore was covered with men, women, and children, who
came to look at the ships, a strange thing for them. Many Indians presently visited the ships, went on
board and stood amazed at the dress, swords, and beards of the Spaniards, and the cannon, tackle, and
arms of the ship. Our people crossed themselves, and were delighted to see that all those Indians
wore pearls on their necks and wrists. Columbus asked by signs where they fished them, and they
pointed to the coast and island.

Venezuela and Panama; the principal pearling regions of
South America

Columbus then sent to the shore two boats with many Spaniards, for greater certainty of those new
riches, and because they importuned him. The chief took them to a place where there was a circular
building that resembled a temple, where presently much bread and fruits of different kinds were
brought. At the end of the feast he gave them pearls for sweetmeats, and took them afterward to the
palace to see the women and the arrangement of the house. Of the numerous women there, not one
was without rings of gold and necklaces of pearls. The Spaniards returned to the ships, wandering at
such pearls and gold, and requested Columbus to leave them there. But he did not wish to do so,
saying they were too few to settle. He hoisted sail and ran along the coast as far as Cape Vela, and
from there came to Santo Domingo, with the intention of returning to Cubagua after regulating the
affairs of the government. He suppressed the joy he felt at having found such treasures, and did not
write to the king regarding the discovery of pearls, or at all events did not write it until it was already
known in Castile. This was largely the cause for the anger of the king, and the order to bring
Columbus a prisoner to Spain. They say that he did not so much intend to conceal this discovery
from the king, who has many eyes, as that he thought by a new agreement to get this rich island for
himself.
Of the sailors who went with Christopher Columbus when he found the pearls, the greater number
were from Palos. As soon as these came to Spain, they told about the country of pearls, displayed
many, and carried them to Seville to sell, whence they went to the court and into the palace. Excited
by this report, some persons there hurriedly prepared a ship and made Pedro Alonso Niño its captain.
He had from the Catholic king license to go in search of pearls and land, provided he should not go
within fifty leagues of any discovered by Columbus.

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Niño embarked in August, 1499, with thirty-three companions, some of whom had been with
Columbus. He sailed as far as Paria, visited the coast of Cumana, Maracapan, Port Plechado, and
Curiana, which lies united to Venezuela. There he landed, and a chief, who came to the coast with
fifty Indians, conducted him amicably to a large town to take water, refreshments, and the barter he
was in search of. He bartered for and secured fifteen ounces of pearls in exchange for pins, rings of
horn and tin, glass beads, small bells, and similar trifles. The Spaniards stayed in the town twenty
days, trading for pearls. The natives gave a pigeon for a needle, a turtledove for one glass bead, a
pheasant for two, and a turkey for four. For that price they also gave rabbits and quarters of deer. The
Indians asked to be shown the use of needles, since they went naked and could not sew, and were told
to extract the thorns with them, for they went barefooted: Niño brought to Galicia ninety-six pounds
of rough pearls, among which were many fine, round, lustrous ones of five and six carats, and some
of more. But they were not well pierced, which was a great fault. On the route a quarrel arose over
the division, and certain sailors accused Niño before the governor in Galicia, saying that he had
stolen many pearls and cheated the king in his fifth, and traded in Cumana and other places where
Columbus had been. The governor seized Niño, but did not keep him in prison very long, where he
consumed pearls enough.[270]

GRAY PEARLS FROM
LOWER CALIFORNIA,
AND DIAMONDS

Pan-American Exposition,
1901

This expedition of Pedro Alonso Niño was the first financially profitable
voyage to America. After his return, the Cubagua pearl fishery became the
object of numerous speculations, and many other Spaniards fitted out
voyages, most of them sailing from Hispaniola or Haiti, nine hundred miles
distant. Owing to the ill-treatment of the Indians and excessive cruelties
toward them, much difficulty was experienced in securing divers. This was

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relieved in 1508 by transporting large numbers of Indians from the Lucayan
or Bahama Islands and impressing them into the service. These were so
expert in the work that individuals sold for upward of 150 ducats each.[271]
With their aid the fishery prospered so greatly that in 1515 a settlement,
called New Cadiz, was established on Cubagua Island by the governor of
Hispaniola, Diego Columbus, son of the discoverer. This small island was
dry and desolate, without water or wood, which were brought from the
mainland twenty miles distant, or from Margarita Island about three miles
to the northward.
An interesting description of the manner of securing the pearls by these
early adventurers was given by Gonzalo Fernandez de Oviedo y Valdes
(1478–1557) in his “Historia natural y general de las Indias,” written less
than thirty years after the discovery of the mainland of America. A
translation of this book was published in 1555 by Richard Eden in his
“Decades of the New World”; from which we extract the following account,
the retention of Eden’s quaint phraseology seeming permissible owing to
this being one of the very earliest books on America.

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Of the maner of fyshynge for perles
The Indians exercise this kynde of fyschynge for the moste parte in the coastes of the North in
Cubagua and Cumana. And manye of theym which dwell in the houses of certeyne particular lordes
in the Ilandes of San Dominico and Sancti Iohannis, resort to the Ilande of Cubagua for this purpose.
Theyr custome is to go fyve, syxe, or seven, or more in one of theyr Canoas or barkes erly in the
mornynge to sume place in the sea there about where it appeareth unto them that there shulde bee
greate plentie of those shell fyshes (which sume caule muscles and sume oysters) wherein perles are
engendered. And there they plonge them selves under the water, even unto the bottome, savynge one
that remaynethe in the Canoa or boate which he keepeth styll in one place as neare as he can,
lookynge for theyr returne owte of the water. And when one of them hath byn a good whyle under the
water, he ryseth up and commeth swymmynge to the boate, enterynge into the same, and leavynge
there all the oysters whiche he hath taken and brought with hym. For in these, are the perles founde.
And when he hathe there rested hym selfe a whyle, and eaten parte of the oysters, he returneth
ageyne to the water, where he remaynethe as longe as he can endure, and then ryseth ageyne, and
swimmeth to the boate with his pray, where he resteth hym as before, and thus continueth course by
course, as doo all the other in lyke maner, being all moste experte swymmers and dyvers. And when
the nyght draweth neare, they returne to the Ilande to theyr houses, and presente all the oysters to the
master or stewarde of the house of theyr lorde who hath charge of the sayde Indians. And when he
hath gyven them sumwhat to eate, he layeth up the oysters in safe custodie untyll he have a great
quantitie thereof. Then hee causeth the same fyssher men to open them. And they fynde in every of
them pearles other great or smaul, two or three or foure, and sumtymes five and syxe, and many
smaule graines accordyng to the lyberalitie of nature. They save the pearles bothe smaule and great
whiche they have founde: And eyther eate the oysters if they wyl, or caste them away, havynge so
great quantitie thereof that they in maner abhorre them. Those oysters are of hard fleshe, and not so
pleasant in eatyng as are owres of Spayne. This Ilande of Cubagua where this manner of fysching is
exercised, is in the Northe coaste, and is no bygger then the Iland of Zelande. Oftentymes the sea
encreaseth greatly, and muche more then the fyshers for pearles wold, bycause where as the place is
very depe, a man can not naturally rest at the bottome by reason of the aboundaunce of aery
substannce whiche is in hym, as I have oftentymes proved. For althoughe he may by vyolence and
force descende to the bottome, yet are his feete lyfted up ageyne so that he can continue no tyme
there. And therefore where the sea is verye deepe, these Indian fyshers use to tye two great stoones
aboute them with a corde, on every side one, by the weyght whereof they descend to the bottome and
remayne there untyl them lysteth to ryse ageine: At which tyme they unlose the stones, and ryse uppe
at their pleasure. But this their aptenesse and agilitie in swimming, is not the thynge that causeth men
moste to marvaile: But rather to consyder how many of them can stande in the bottome of the water
for the space of one hole houre and summe more or lesse, accordynge as one is more apte hereunto
then an other. An other thynge there is whiche seemeth to me very straunge. And this is, that where as
I have oftentymes demaunded of summe of these lordes of the Indians, if the place where they
accustomed to fysche for pearles beynge but lyttle and narrowe wyll not in shorte tyme bee utterly
without oysters if they consume them so faste, they al answered me, that although they be consumed
in one parte, yet if they go a fyschynge in an other parte or on another coaste of the Ilande, or at an
other contrary wynd, and continue fysshing there also untyll the oysters be lykewyse consumed, and
then returne ageyne to the fyrste place, or any other place where they fysshed before and emptied the
same in lyke maner, they find them ageine as ful of oysters as though they had never bin fysshed.
Wherby we may judge that these oysters eyther remove from one place to an other as do other
fysshes, or elles that they are engendered and encrease in certeyne ordinaire places. This Iland of

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Cumana and Cubagua where they fyshe for these perles, is in the twelfe degree of the part of the said
coaste which inclineth toward the North.
The cupidity of the proprietors of the fishery led to most cruel treatment
of the divers and, if the accounts of the time are to be relied upon, a large
percentage of them died under the harsh regime. About 1515 the
unfortunate natives obtained an earnest and influential advocate in
Bartolomé de las Casas, who, in 1516, prevailed upon the youthful Charles
V to decree that the fishery should be prosecuted only in summer, that the
divers should not be required to work more than four hours a day where the
depth exceeded six fathoms, that they should receive good nourishment and
half a quart of wine daily, should have hammocks or beds in which to sleep,
and should be provided with clothes to put on as soon as they left the water.
[272]
And by later ordinances it was stipulated that death should be inflicted
on any one forcing a free Indian to dive for pearls.
In 1528 the resources of Coche Island were exploited with so much
success that within six months “1500 marcs (12,000 ounces) of pearls”
were secured. Pearl banks were successively found at Porlamar,
Maracapana, Curiano, and at various places on the coast from the Gulf of
Paria to the Gulf of Coro, a distance of over five hundred miles, which
became designated the “Pearl Coast.” For a number of years previous to
1530, the output exceeded in value 800,000 piastres annually,
approximating one half the produce of the American mines at that time.[273]
It was largely these pearls that enriched the cargoes of many of those
famous caravels that crossed the Atlantic to Spain. Indeed, for several
decades, America was best known in continental Europe as the land whence
the pearls came.
An interesting account of an early effort to use dredges in the Cubagua
pearl fishery was given by Girolamo Benzoni, who had lived in America
from 1542 to 1555, and was familiar with the conditions. He states:
“At the time the pearl fishery flourished on this island there came here one Louis de Lampugnan
with an imperial license authorizing him to fish such quantities of pearls as he pleased within all the
limits and bounds of Cubagua. This man set out from Spain with four caravels loaded with all the
necessary provisions and munitions for such an enterprise, which some Spanish merchants furnished
him. He had made a kind of rake, the fashion of which was such that in whatever part of the sea it
was used, not an oyster would escape. At the same time he would have raked and drawn out all that
bore pearls if he had not been disappointed. But the Spaniards in Cubagua all banded against him in
the execution of his privilege. They said the emperor was too liberal with other people’s goods, and if
he wished to give he might give his own as he wished. As for themselves they had conquered and
kept that country with great labor and at the peril of their lives, and there were far better reasons why
they should enjoy it than a stranger. Poor Lampugnan, seeing that his patents did not avail him the

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value of a straw, and at the same time not daring to return to Spain, partly through fear of being
ridiculed and partly on account of the money he owed, was ruined. In fact, the business and its
anxieties drove him crazy and he was exposed to the mockery of all the world as a lunatic. In the end,
after dragging out five years in this miserable condition, he died in this isle of Cubagua.”[274]
The average size of these pearls derived from the Venezuelan fisheries
was small, specimens rarely exceeding twenty grains. In 1577, Urbain
Chauveton wrote: “The pearls of Cubagua are mostly 2, 3, 4, and 5 carats.
But the quantity of them is so great that the fifth part which is paid to the
king of Spain yields every year the value of more than 15,000 ducats; this
besides the frauds committed and the pearls which stick to the fingers of
those who manage the business, and who pilfer the most beautiful in great
numbers, sending them here and there for sale. They place themselves in
great danger if the facts become known, but they do it all the same.”[275]
The enormous demands made by the Spaniards soon had its effect on the
resources, for Chauveton adds: “It is apparent they decrease and not so
many are found as in the beginning. The reason for this is that the Spaniards
are so eager to gather large quantities of them quickly that they are not
content to use their divers to search for them in the depths of the sea, but
they have conceived and invented I know not how many machines of rakes
and drags to scrape up everything. In fact they have at times collected them
all so that another could not be found, and have had to abandon their fishing
for a considerable time to give the oysters a chance to lay their eggs and
grow their pearls.”[276]
The decrease noted by Chauveton was probably not very serious, for the
Spanish historian, Jose de Acosta, reports that in 1581 he saw “the note of
what came from the Indies for the king; there were 18 marcs of pearles,
besides 3 caskets; and for private persons there were 1265 marcs, and
besides them, 7 caskets not pierced, which heretofore we would have
esteemed and helde for a lie.”[277] Also the records show that in 1597 Spain
received from the Venezuelan fisheries “350 pounds’ weight of pearls.” It is
to be regretted that the Spaniards so frequently reported the yield of pearls
by pounds’ weight, for—owing to the great variation in quality—this is
about as unsatisfactory as to report the wealth of an individual by the
pounds’ weight of his title-deeds or of his stock certificates. The value of
“350 pounds of pearls” might have been anywhere from twenty thousand
dollars to as many millions. Assuming that all were two grains each in
weight and of good quality, the total value would approximate $600,000

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according to the valuation of that period; and on a basis of eight grains
each, it would be $9,600,000, or sixteen times as much. But as original
parcels of pearls from the fisheries, these figures should be divided by
three.
Following 1597, the productiveness of the Cubagua beds rapidly
decreased. By acts of cruelty and oppression the Spaniards had converted
the surviving Indians into deadly foes, ready to take advantage of any
opportunity to avenge themselves on their oppressors, and thus terrifying
the settlers into abandoning the enterprise. Early in the seventeenth century
the development of mining resources in Mexico, Peru, etc., attracted the
adventurous Spaniards. A considerable decrease in the value of pearls,
brought about by the skilful manufacture of imitations at Venice, and
elsewhere in southern Europe, also affected the prosperity of the fisheries.
As a result of these combined influences, the output in Venezuela was
greatly reduced, and it ceased long before the close of the following
century. Thus ended an enterprise which, for a number of years, represented
the greatest single industry of the European people on the American
continent.
According to General Manuel Laudecta Rosales, the Venezuela archives
contain no reference to any renewal of the fishery until early in the
nineteenth century. At the time of Humboldt’s visit in 1799, the fishery was
entirely neglected around the islands of Margarita, Cubagua, and Coche,
and the only evidence of pearls was a few very insignificant ones picked up
about Cumana and sold among the natives at a piaster per dozen.[278]
After the overthrow of Spanish authority on this coast, Messrs. Rundell,
Bridge and Rundell, a firm of well-known goldsmiths of London, obtained,
in 1823, from the government of Colombia, a ten-year monopoly of the
fishery at several places on the coast of the new republic, in consideration
of one fifth of the pearls secured.[279] After the independence of Venezuela in
1829, the taxes imposed were so heavy that the industry languished, and
about 1833 it was practically abandoned.
Owing to the improved physical condition of the reefs, the fishery
developed largely in 1845; and for several years an average of 1600 ounces
of pearls were secured, an ounce of good quality selling for 150 to 500
bolivars (one bolivar = 19½ cents), and the inferior quality at 80 to 100
bolivars.[280] At that time there was a tax of sixteen bolivars per boat

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monthly. In 1853 this was increased to forty-eight bolivars per boat, and the
use of dredges (arrastras) was interdicted, soon reducing the fishery to a
very low stage. Subjected to frequent changes in regulations, and burdened
by heavy taxes, the industry remained in poor condition until about 1895.
Since then the enhanced value of pearls, and the increased industrial
activity on the coast, has resulted in a very large development of the fishery.
In recent years the government of Venezuela has granted concessions to
individuals and to companies for the exploitation of defined areas for a
limited period, exacting 10 per cent. royalty on the proceeds of the
enterprise. In granting these concessions, the government usually reserves
the right to examine the books, and to intervene when necessary in any
phase of the enterprise. For protecting its revenue, the government requires
that shipments of the pearls must be signed by its agent, and bills of sale
must be countersigned by the Venezuelan consul in the place where the
sales are consummated.
The Venezuelan pearl fishery now gives employment to about 350 boats,
manned by five or six men each, sailing from the ports of Juan Griego,
Cumana, and Carupano. These are sail craft, measuring from two to fifteen
tons each, and are licensed by the Venezuelan authorities at a charge of 15
bolivars ($2.92) each. Most of the boats use dredges, but some of them
resort to nude diving, after the manner of the sixteenth century. Attempts
have been made to use the scaphander, or diving armor, but without
success, owing largely to the difficulty in obtaining experienced workmen,
and also to local prejudice against this form of fishery. It is claimed that in
using the scaphander, all oysters are removed from the reefs, whereas the
arrastra or dredge spreads the oysters and thereby enlarges the reefs. This
is the principal and, except those at Sharks Bay and the Sulu Islands, the
only important pearl fishery in which the oysters are secured by means of
dredges. These are made of iron and are similar to those implements used in
the scallop fisheries of New York and Rhode Island. They are dragged over
the beds, and when filled are lifted and their contents emptied into the boat,
the fishermen culling out the desirable oysters from the mass and throwing
the refuse material overboard.
The pearl-oyster (Margaritifera radiata) secured on the coast of
Venezuela is closely related to the Ceylon species. It averages slightly larger
in size, and there is a much greater range in coloration. The pearls are of

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good quality. In color they range from white to bronze, and occasionally a
so-called black one is found. The total output is valued locally at about
1,750,000 francs ($350,000) per year. Most of them are sold in Paris.
Owing to their small size and lack of thickness, the shells of the
Venezuela pearl-oyster are of little or no value in the mother-of-pearl trade.
Thousands of tons of them, the accumulations of scores of fisheries, lie in
heaps and ridges along the coast, as though in years long past vast armies of
oysters, engaged in deadly combat, had left their innumerable myriads of
slain comrades to bleach on the shores.

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THE PANAMA PEARL FISHERIES
The bordring Ilands, seated here in ken,
Whose Shores are sprinkled with rich Orient Pearle,
More bright of hew than were the Margarets
That Caesar found in wealthy Albion.

Robert Greene, Orlando Furioso (1594).

From the point of view of the Spaniards of his day, the greatest result of
Balboa’s immortal journey in 1513 across the Isthmus of Panama to the
broad waters of the Pacific, was the discovery of the pearl resources of the
Gulf of St. Michael, now known as the Gulf of Panama. Probably the best
description of this is given by Lopez de Gomara in his “Historia general de
las Indias,” published in 1554, from which we translate the following
account.
After Balboa had reached the Pacific in 1513, he proceeded a short
distance along the coast until he met with an Indian chief by the name of
Tomaco. Being questioned about the gold and pearls which some of his
people wore, Tomaco sent for some gold and 240 large pearls and a great
number of small ones—a rich present, which filled the Spaniards with
pleasure. Seeing the Spaniards so delighted, Tomaco ordered some of his
men to go and fish for pearls. These went and in a few days obtained 64
ounces, which also he gave them. The Spaniards were surprised to see such
pearls, and that their owners did not value them; they not only gave them
away, but their paddles were decorated therewith, for the principal income
and wealth of these chiefs was the pearl fishery. Tomaco told Balboa that
these riches were nothing in comparison with those of Tararequi, which had
pearls larger than a man’s eye, taken from oysters the size of sombreros.
The Spaniards wished to go there at once, but fearing another tempest, left
it for their return. They dismissed Tomaco and rested in the country of
Chiape, who, at the request of Balboa, sent thirty of his men to fish. These
did it in the presence of seven Spaniards, who looked on and saw them take
six loads of small shells. As it was not the season for that fishery, they did
not go into very deep water where the shells were. Not only did they not
fish in September and the following months, but they did not even travel by
water, on account of the stormy weather which then prevails in that sea. The

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pearls which they extracted from those shells were like peas, but very fine
and white. Of those received from Tomaco, some were black, others green,
blue, and yellow.
On the return of Balboa’s expedition to Darien in 1514, the sight of the
pearls and the wonderful reports made by the men, caused his successor,
Pedrarias, to fit out another expedition, an account of which we likewise
translate from Gomara.
By command of Pedrarias, Gaspar de Morales went in the year 1515 to the Gulf of St. Michael,
with 550 Spaniards, in quest of the island of Tararequi, which was said by Balboa’s men to be so
abundant in pearls and so near the coast. The chief of that island sallied forth with many people to
prevent his entrance, and clamored and fought three times with our people on equal terms, but the
fourth time he was defeated. He then made friends, carried the chief of the Spaniards to his house,
which was a large and good one, gave him food to eat, and a basket of pearls which weighed 110
marcs [880 ounces]. The chief received for them some looking-glasses, stringed beads, bells,
scissors, axes, and small wares of barter, which he valued more than he had the pearls. He promised
to give as tribute to the emperor, in whose guardianship he placed himself, 100 marcs of pearls every
year. With these the Spaniards returned to the Gulf of St. Michael and from thence to Darien.
Tararequi is within five degrees of the equator. It possessed a great fishery for pearls, which are the
largest and best of the new world. Many of the pearls which the cacique gave were like filberts,
others like nutmegs, and there was one of 26 and another of 31 carats, pear-shaped, very lustrous, and
most perfect, which Peter of the Port, a shop-keeper, bought of Gaspar de Morales for 12,000
castilians. The purchaser could not sleep that night for thinking on the fact that he had given so much
money for one stone, and so he sold it the very next day to Pedrarias de Avila, for his wife Donna
Isabel de Bovadilla, at the same price, and afterwards the Bovadilla sold it to Donna Isabella the
Empress.
Pedrarias, who delighted in such fishery, requested the cacique to make his men fish for pearls in
the presence of the Spaniards. The fishermen were great swimmers and divers, and seemed to have
spent all their lives in that employment. They went in small boats when the sea was calm, and not in
any other manner. They cast a stone for an anchor from each canoe, tied by strong, flexible withes
like boughs of the hazel. They plunged to search for oysters each with a sack or bag at the neck, and
returned loaded with them. They entered four, six, and even ten fathoms of water, for the shell is
larger the deeper they go, and if at times the larger ones come in shallow water it is through storms,
or because they go from one place to another in search for food, and having found their pasture they
stay there until they have finished it. They perceive those who search for them, and stick so close to
the rocks or ground, or one to another, that much strength is needed to detach them, and many times
the fishermen cannot raise them and leave them, thinking they are stones. In this fishery many
persons are drowned, either by remaining too long at the bottom, or because they become entwined
or entangled in the cord, or such carnivorous fish as the shark devour them. This is the manner of
fishing pearls in all the Indies, and many fishermen die from the dangers aforesaid, and from the
excessive and constant labor, the little food, and the maltreatment they have. The emperor was led to
enact a law among those whom Blasco Nunez Vela brought, which imposed the penalty of death
upon him who should forcibly compel any free Indian to fish for pearls. He thought more of the lives
of the men than of his interest in pearls, though they were of great value. The law was worthy of such
a prince and of perpetual memory.[281]

Page 296

CLARA EUGENIA,
DAUGHTER OF PHILIP II

Painting by Gonzales, in the
Galeria del Prado, Madrid
Most of these pearls were
doubtless from the early
American fisheries

Gonzalo de Oviedo referred to the pearl resources of Panama in his
“Historia natural de las Indias,” Toledo, 1526, mentioned in the chapter on
pearl fisheries of Venezuela. After describing the resources of Cubagua and
Cumana on the Venezuelan coast, he states, according to Eden’s quaint
translation:
Lykewise pearles are founde and gathered in the South sea cauled mare del sur. And the pearles of
this sea [the Caribbean coast] are verye bygge. Yet not so bigge as they of the Ilande of pearles
cauled de las perlas, or Margaritea, whiche the Indians caule Terarequi, lying in the gulfe of saincte
Michael, where greater pearles are founde and of greater price then in any other coaste of the Northe
sea, in Cumana, or any other porte. I speake this as a trewe testimonie of syght, havyng byn longe in
that South sea, and makynge curious inquisition to bee certenly informed of all that perteyneth to the
fysshvnge of perles. From this Ilande of Tararequi, there was brought a pearle of the fasshyon of a
peare, wayinge xxxi carattes, which Petrus Arias had amonge a thousande and soo many poundes
weight of other pearles which hee had when capitayne Gaspar Morales (before Petrus Arias) passed
to the saide Ilande in the yeare 1515, which pearle was of great prise. From the saide Ilande also,
came a great and verye rounde pearle, whiche I brought owte of the sea. This was as bygge as a
smaule pellet of a stone bowe, and of the weight of xxvi carattes. I boughte it in the citie of Panama
in the sea of Sur: and paide for it syxe hundredth and fyftie tymes the weyght therof of good gold,
[282] and had it thre yeares in my custodie: and after my returne into Spaine, soulde it to the erle of
Nansao, Marquisse of Zenete, great chamberleyne to youre maiestie, who gave it to the Marquesse
his wyfe, the ladye Mentia of Mendozza. I thyncke verely that this pearle was the greatest, fayrest,
and roundest that hath byn seene in those partes. For youre maiestie owght to understande that in the
coaste of the sea of Sur, there are founde a hundredth great pearles rounde after the fasshyon of
peare, to one that is perfectly rounde and greate. This Iland of Terarequi which the Christians caule

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the Ilande of pearles, and other caule it the Ilande of floures, is founde in the eyght degree on the
southe syde of the firme lande in the provynce of golden Castyle or Beragua. (Arber, “The First
Three English Books on America,” Birmingham, 1885.)
In addition to the gems noted by Oviedo, these waters furnished many
other beautiful pearls in the sixteenth century, and added largely to the
collections of the Spanish court and of the cathedrals of Seville, Toledo, etc.
The Italian traveler, Gemelli-Careri, who visited the Panama fisheries in
1697, reported that they yielded pearls equal to those of Ceylon. He
mentioned one weighing 60 grains, for which the owner—a Jesuit priest—
refused 70,000 pesos.[283]
In 1735, the Spanish admiral, Antonio de Ulloa visited the Panama pearl
fisheries and wrote an extended description of them.[284] According to his
account the pearls were then found in such plenty that there were few
slaveholders in the vicinity who did not employ at least a portion of their
Negroes in the fishery. These were selected for their dexterity in diving, and
were sent to the islands in gangs of from eight to twenty men each, under
the command of an overseer. They lived in temporary huts on the shore, and
visited the pearl reefs in small boats. Anchoring in eight or ten fathoms of
water, the Negroes would, dive in succession to the bottom, returning with
as many oysters as possible. It was laborious work, attended with danger
owing to the numerous sharks.
Every one of these Negro divers is obliged daily to deliver to his master a fixed number of pearls;
so that when they have got the requisite number of oysters in their bag, they begin to open them, and
deliver the pearls to the officer, till they have made up the number due to their master; and if the pearl
be but formed, it is sufficient, without any regard to its being small or faulty. The remainder, however
large or beautiful, are the Negro’s own property, nor has the master the least claim to them, the slaves
being allowed to sell them to whom they please, though the master generally purchases them at a
very small price.... Some of these pearls, though indeed but few, are sent to Europe, the greater part
being carried to Lima, where the demand for them is very great, being not only universally worn
there by all persons of rank, but also sent from thence to the inland portions of Peru.[285]
During the hundred years following, the pearl reefs of Panama were not
very productive, and relatively little attention was paid to them. The
development of a market for the shells in the mother-of-pearl trade, about
1840, enhanced the profits of the few natives engaged in pearling in a
desultory manner, and led to an increase in the number of fishermen.
During some years when industrial and market conditions were favorable,
large quantities of shells were exported. In 1855, for instance, 650 tons of
these shells were shipped to England alone, and in 1859 the reported
quantity was 957 tons. Those from the Island of San José, one of the Pearl

Page 298

Archipelago, were said to be the largest and choicest in the bay. Many of
them were used in decorating the twin towers of the stately old cathedral at
Panama.
Since then the industry has fluctuated greatly, depending on the market
for the shell. Many outsiders have experimented in the fishery, but most of
these attempts have resulted in financial loss, through mismanagement,
storms, sickness, or other causes. A story is told locally of a party of thirty
men, principally from Scotland, who arrived at Panama equipped with a
diving-bell and such necessary machinery as air-pumps, windlasses, etc.
Much was expected of their operations, but soon yellow fever broke out
among them, and within six weeks two thirds of the members of the party
had died. The remaining members, becoming disheartened, and in fear of
the dread disease, lost no time in leaving the country. The diving-bell and
machinery remained for several years as a curiosity at Panama, for no one
returned to claim them, nor has the use of similar apparatus been attempted
since then.
The scattered pearl reefs extend from the east side of the Bay of Panama
nearly to the Costa Rica boundary. However, this gives an exaggerated idea
of their area, as much of this territory yields no pearl-oysters whatever. The
principal reefs and the headquarters of the fishery are at Archipelago de las
Perlas or Pearl Islands, which are from thirty to sixty miles southeast of the
Pacific terminus of the projected Panama Canal. This archipelago contains
sixteen small islands, on which are about twice that number of small
settlements of Negro and Indian descendants, with a total population of
perhaps one thousand. About half of these live on Isla del Rey, the largest
island, about fifteen miles long and half that in width. The chief village, San
Miguel, is the center of the pearling industry, and consists mostly of palm-
thatched huts and a handsome stone church, more costly than all the
remaining buildings of the town combined. While the soil is fertile and
some vegetables are raised, the inhabitants depend almost wholly on the
fisheries.
In 1901, the Republic of Colombia invited bids for the right to operate
the pearl and coral fisheries for a term of fifteen years, but nothing seems to
have come of it, and the establishment of the Panama Republic in 1903
terminated the authority of Colombia in these resources.

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The Panama fisheries differ widely in their character from those of
Venezuela. The mollusk is much larger, averaging about six inches in
diameter when fully grown, thus furnishing a valuable quality of mother-of-
pearl. The shell constitutes the principal object of the fishery; the pearls
themselves are of incidental importance, but are always looked for and
anxiously expected.
The season extends from May to November, with a rest during the
remaining five months of the year. The fishery is open to natives and to
foreigners alike. While the leading fishermen employ diving-suits, which
were introduced here about 1890, nude diving is yet practised to a
considerable extent, the men descending in eight or ten, and some even in
twelve fathoms of water. There is no restriction whatever on the nude
fishermen, but for each machine diver an annual license fee of $125 United
States currency is exacted.
Owing to the low market price for Panama shell during recent years, the
fishery has not been vigorously prosecuted, and it has even dwindled to low
proportions. A letter from one of the leading pearling companies in Panama
states that the machine divers number about twenty, while there are about
four hundred nude fishermen; and another firm likewise prominent,
estimates these fishermen at twenty and three hundred respectively.
Yet a third pearling company writes that there are fifteen machine divers
and two hundred head divers; and adds that the small demand for this
quality of mother-of-pearl has made the condition of the industry about as
bad as it could be; many who have capital invested are getting out of the
business, and unless the market improves, the industry may be abandoned.
Probably with the introduction of new capital and methods in the infant
republic, the pearl resources may receive greater attention and a large
development ensue.
The Panama pearls are of good quality and frequently of large size. In
color they range from white to green and lead-gray, and frequently greenish
black. Valuable pearls are not common, but occasionally the fisherman is
amply rewarded. A letter from the American consul at Panama states that in
1899 a native boy, fifteen years old, fishing in shallow water, as much for
sport as for profit, found a pearl which he sold to a local speculator for 4000
silver dollars ($1760); this speculator delivered the same pearl to a dealer in
Panama for 10,000 silver dollars ($4400), and an offer of 30,000 francs was

Page 300

refused for it later in Paris. A pearl worth $2400 was reported as found
within half a mile of the steamship anchorage at Panama. A pearl from a
giant oyster resembling Tridacna, was an absolute egg-shape, pure cocoanut
white, and weighed 169 grains; it was 21 mm. at the longest and 16.5 mm.
at the narrowest part. The surface showed very distinctly a wavy structure,
occasionally with a tiny, brighter central point; the surface under the glass
resembling a honeycomb network. At the smallest point there was a
radiated center with quite a brilliant field. It was worth only $100.
Not always, however, does the poor, ignorant fisherman receive the full
value of his find; and many a story is told of some thoughtless improvident
native, who, for less than a mess of pottage, “like the base Indian, threw a
pearl away, richer than half his tribe.”
Most of the Panama pearls are sold in Paris, relatively few of them
coming to America direct. This is not because of any greater estimation of
them in Paris or higher prices obtained; but the trade relation has been long
continued and the credits are well established. From Paris many of these
pearls reach the American market.

Page 301

THE PEARL FISHERIES OF MEXICO
Then, too, the pearl from out its shell,
Unsightly in the sunless sea,
(As ’twere a spirit, forced to dwell
In form unlovely) was set free,
And round the neck of woman threw
A light it lent and borrowed too.

Thomas Moore, The Loves of the Angels.

Pearl-bearing oysters are found at various places on the Pacific coast of
Mexico, and especially along the coast of Lower California, where
extensive fisheries are prosecuted. The pearls are noted for the great variety
of colors which they display. A large percentage are black, others are white,
brown, peacock green, etc. Generally they are small and of irregular form,
yet sometimes very large ones are secured, weighing 100, 200, and even
300 grains.
European knowledge of the pearl resources of Mexico dates from the
conquest of that country by Hernando Cortés about 1522. The diary of his
lieutenant, Fortuno Ximines, tells of finding native chiefs living in primitive
huts along the sea-shore, with quantities of beautiful pearls lying carelessly
around. From a tribe near the present site of Hermosillo, in the State of
Sonora, Cortés secured great quantities of the gems. It appeared that the
fishery had been in existence for centuries. The location of the pearl reefs
was prominently noted on Cortés’ map of this coast, made in 1535, a copy
of which was procured by the Rev. Edward E. Hale when in Spain in 1883.
Following Cortés’ explorations of the Pacific coast of Mexico (1533–
1538), a number of expeditions were fitted out for securing pearls by
trading with the natives, by forcing them to fish, and by even more
questionable means. Several of these expeditions found record in history
either by reason of their unusual success or through the extreme cruelty
with which they were conducted. The contact of the Spaniards with the
Indians resulted in very bitter feelings on the part of the latter, so that it
became risky for small traders to venture among them. From time to time,
successful expeditions were made, especially the one of 200 men sent in
1596 by the viceroy of Mexico to “the rich Isles of California,” mentioned

Page 302

by Teixeira.[286] Antonio de Castillo, a Spanish colonist, with headquarters
south of Mazatlan, was one of the most successful of the early adventurers,
and Iturbide Ortega and José Carborel were also among the fortunate ones
of that period.[287] Ortega marketed his pearls in the city of Mexico, and the
reported sale of one for 4500 dollars had considerable effect in stimulating
the industry.
The advent of the Jesuits to western Mexico in 1642, developed amicable
relations with the Indians; and although the missionaries were agriculturists
rather than fishermen, the restoration of harmony resulted in a more
favorable prosecution of the fisheries. The colonists of Sinaloa and Nueva
Galicia, who had formerly, in small vessels and with great danger, made
occasional visits to the pearl beds, built larger vessels and made more
frequent visits without apprehension. The skilful Yaqui and Mayo Indians
were employed or impressed as divers, just as natives of the Bahamas had
served in the fisheries of Venezuela. Great profits resulted from the
operations. Venegas wrote that “it was certain that the fifth of every vessel
was yearly farmed for 12,000 dollars.”[288]
So profitable was the fishery that the Spanish soldiers and sailors
stationed in the Gulf of Cortes—as the Gulf of California was then called—
were frequently charged with devoting more attention to pearling than to
their official duties. In order to put a stop to this evil, in 1704, Father Silva-
Tierra, who was in authority in that part of the country, ordered that no
soldier or sailor should engage in the fishery. With a view to removing the
demoralizing influences of promiscuous adventurers among the Indians, the
industry was later restricted to persons specially authorized.
Probably the most successful of the early pearlers was Manuel Osio, who
is credited with having marketed “127 pounds’ weight of pearls in 1743,”
and “275 pounds’ weight” in 1744.[289] He operated in the vicinity of
Mulege and northward, employing the Yaqui Indians; and through his
pearling interests is said to have become the richest man in Lower
California.

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Gulf of California and the
pearling territory of western
Mexico

The revenue from the royal fifth, somewhat later, was reported by
Alvarado[290] at 12,000 dollars per year; but this was disputed by Jacob
Baegert, a Jesuit priest. Baegert spent seventeen years in Mexico and,
returning to Europe on the expulsion of his order from that country in 1767,
published a report in 1772, containing rather an unfavorable view of the
fishery. He stated that each summer eight, ten, or twelve poor Spaniards
from Sonora, Sinaloa, and elsewhere on the mainland, crossed the gulf in
small boats to the California shore for the purpose of obtaining pearls. They
carried supplies of Indian corn and dried beef, and also a number of Indians
who served as divers, the Spaniards themselves showing little inclination to
engage in the work when native fishermen could be employed so cheaply.
Provided with a sack for receiving the oysters which they removed from the
bottom, the fishermen dived head first into the sea, and when they could no
longer hold their breath they ascended with the gathered treasure. The
oysters were counted before opening; and, when the law was complied
with, every fifth one was put aside for the king’s revenue. Most of the
oysters yielded no pearls; some contained black pearls, others white ones,
the latter usually small and ill-shaped. If, after six or eight weeks of hard
labor and deducting all expenses, a Spaniard gained a hundred American
pesos, he thought he had made a little fortune, but this he could not do
every season. “God knows,” said Baegert, “whether a fifth of the pearls
secured in the California sea yields to the Catholic king an average of 150
or 200 pesos in a year, even without frauds in the transaction. I heard of
only two persons—with whom also I was personally acquainted—who had

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accumulated some wealth, after spending 20 or more years in the business.
The others remained poor notwithstanding their pearl fishing.”[291]
Father Baegert’s statement of the returns seems to be substantiated by the
reports of the royal fifth a few years later. For the period from 1792 to 1796
this was placed at “2 lbs. 2 ozs.” by some writers; and according to others,
from 1788 to 1797 it amounted to only “3 lbs. 9 ozs.,” which is the quantity
assigned by some accounts to 1797 alone.[292] These returns apparently
indicate that a great decrease had occurred since the days of Osio; but it
seems very doubtful whether, under the conditions existing in Mexico at
that time, the royal treasury received its due share of the proceeds.
Shortly following the independence of Mexico in 1821, and after a period
of little activity, several attempts were made to exploit the pearl resources.
The great prosperity in England, ensuing upon the termination of the
Napoleonic Wars, resulted in much speculation and the promotion of stock
subscriptions in many visionary schemes. Among these was “The General
Pearl and Coral-Fishing Association of London,” which in 1825 equipped
and sent out to Mexico, by way of Cape Horn, two vessels prepared to
exploit the pearl resources by the use of diving-bells similar to those
formerly employed in submarine construction. This expedition was under
the direction of Lieutenant R. W. H. Hardy, whose report thereon presents
an interesting exhibit of the condition of the pearl fishery at that time.
Hardy found the fishery at a very low ebb, owing, largely, to the scarcity
of oysters and the uncertainty of depending on the native divers. He adds
with peculiar naïveté: “I had almost forgotten to mention a very curious
circumstance with respect to the pearl-oyster, namely that on the coast of
Sonora there are none at all, except at Guaymas.” He states also that to the
northward of 28° 30′ not the trace of a shell could be discovered on either
side of the gulf.
The center of the industry was then at Loreto, a village of 250
inhabitants; but another small station existed at La Paz. At Loreto six or
eight vessels of twenty-five tons each were employed, each having three or
four sailors and fifteen or twenty Yaqui Indians who served as divers. Head-
diving was in vogue, the work proceeding from 11 A.M. to 2 P.M., and the
depth ranging from three to twelve fathoms. The annual catch of pearls was
“4 or 5 pounds’ weight, worth from $8000 to $10,000.”[293] After the

Page 305

government’s claim of one fifth had been set apart, the owner and captain of
the vessel received one half and the divers the other half.
It was found impossible to use diving-bells when the sea was at all rough,
and even during calm weather they were impracticable on account of the
unevenness of the ground and the strong undercurrents. An effort was made
to employ native divers, but owing to the disorganized state of affairs only
four could be secured. In the Gulf of Mulege a large number of oysters were
collected, but when these were opened “six very small pearls” were all that
could be found. After spending about three years on the coast, Hardy
returned to England, and the company abandoned the enterprise.
In the early history of the Mexican pearl fishery, the shells were of no
market value; but about 1830 a French trader named Combier made
experimental shipments to France, securing cheap freight rates by using the
waste shells largely as ballast for the vessels.[294] The best quality sold for
about 600 francs per ton, and the market was found sufficient for regular
shipments. The value gradually increased, and in 1854 it approximated
2000 francs per ton in France, placing the industry upon a very
remunerative basis. This resulted in much activity in the fishery, and an
increase in the number of boats and divers.
In 1855, the fishery gave employment to 368 divers, and yielded $23,800
worth of pearls, and 350 tons of shells worth $13,500.[295] It was estimated
by Lassepas that from 1580 to 1857, inclusive, 95,000 tons of oysters were
removed from the Gulf of California, yielding 2770 pounds of pearls, worth
$5,540,000.[296]
For protection of the reefs, the Mexican government in 1857 divided the
Gulf of California into four pearling districts, and provided that only one of
them should be worked each year, and then only in areas leased for the
season to the highest bidders, thereby permitting the reefs successively to
remain undisturbed for three years.
The yield of pearls in 1868 approximated $55,000, and that of shells
$10,600 in value; while in 1869 these items were given as $62,000 and
$25,000, respectively.[297] The local prices ranged from $15 per ounce for
seed-pearls to $1500 for a choice gem.
At that period the fishery was carried on from shore camps or from large
vessels, each carrying twenty to fifty divers, who were mostly Yaqui
Indians from the eastern shore of the gulf. The camp or vessel was located

Page 306

in the vicinity of the reefs or beds, and the fishing was prosecuted from
small boats, each carrying three or four nude divers. Fastened to the waist
or suspended from the neck was a net for the reception of oysters, and each
diver carried a short spud or stick with which to detach them from the
bottom, and to some extent for use as a weapon of defense against sharks
and similar enemies. The diving progressed mostly in the morning, when
the sea was unruffled by the breeze which usually begins shortly after noon.
The season lasted from May to late in September, when the water became
too cold for further operations.
The divers were paid a definite share of the catch, and kept in debt-
bondage by means of advances and supplies. Little clothing was necessary,
and the provisions consisted principally of corn, beans, and sun-dried beef.
Luxuries were added in the form of tobacco, and of mescal distilled from
the maguey plant, indulgence in these constituting the chief remuneration
for the season’s labor. The finding of an unusually choice pearl brought to
the lucky fisherman a gratuity of a few dollars, and shore leave for several
days in which to spend it. Dressing in his best calico garments, he hastened
to the nearest town to indulge in release from restraint, in drunkenness and
debauchery—the highest dreams of happiness of a Yaqui Indian—thoughts
of which served to bring him to the fishery each year from his home across
the gulf.
From the Spanish conquest until 1874, the Mexican pearl fishery was
conducted exclusively by nude divers. The experiments with the diving-bell
in 1825 had been without favorable result, and also an attempt by an
American in 1854 to use a diving-suit with air-pump, etc., this failure being
credited to imperfection of apparatus. In 1874, through the influence of
European pearl merchants, two schooners, each of about 200 tons’
measurement, one from Australia and the other from England, visited the
Mexican grounds, with a dozen boats fully equipped with scaphanders or
diving armor, including helmets, rubber suits, pumps, etc. Owing to their
working in deeper water than the nude divers were able to exploit, their
success was remarkable, and they secured upward of a hundred thousand
dollars’ worth of pearls and shells during the first season.
The hitherto somnolent inhabitants of Lower California were amazed at
seeing their resources thus easily removed, and were awakened to the
opportunities afforded them to acquire the wealth which nature had

Page 307

scattered at their very doors. With this object-lesson before them,
companies were formed for raising sufficient capital for the business, and
the leading operators equipped their men with scaphanders, to the great
annoyance of the would-be independent fishermen, who had not sufficient
means to purchase the costly equipment. Many of these continued to
employ nude divers, but after 1880 this method of fishery was subordinate
to the use of diving apparatus. The change was accompanied by many
accidents, and rarely did a month pass without the loss of a man, due in
most cases to faulty apparatus or to inexperienced management.
In 1884 President Gonzalez inaugurated the policy of granting exclusive
concessions to the pearl reefs. On February 28 of that year, five concessions
were granted to as many persons, giving them and their associates and
assigns the exclusive right to all shell fisheries in their respective zones of
large area, for a period of sixteen years, in consideration of a royalty and
export duty, amounting altogether to about $10 per ton of shells exported in
the first three years, and $15 per ton for the remaining thirteen years of the
term. Immediately these five grants were consolidated, forming the Lower
California Pearl Fishing Company (“Compañia Perlífera de la Baja
California”), incorporated under the laws of California with an invested
capital of $100,000.
Other concessions were given covering the ocean shore of Lower
California, the eastern side of the gulf within the States of Sonora and
Sinaloa, and the ocean shore of Mexico southward from Sinaloa. In addition
to these, certain territorial rights of fishing are claimed through grants
dating back very early in the history of the country. So eagerly have these
concessions been sought in recent years, that there is now little pearling
ground on the coast which is not under corporate or private claim. And,
owing to speculation in these concessions and in the formation of
companies to develop them, it is somewhat difficult to obtain wholly
reliable data relative to the condition and extent of the industry.
Two species of pearl-bearing mollusks occur on the Mexican coast. The
principal one is the M. margaritifera mazatlanica, known locally as the
concha de perla fina. This species is closely related to the “black lip shell”
of the Australian coast. It is considerably larger than the Venezuelan oyster,
averaging four or five inches in diameter and attaining an extreme diameter
of seven or possibly eight inches. It occurs to some extent all along the

Page 308

Pacific coast of Mexico, in detached beds intercalated in places. The
principal reefs, which have been exploited for nearly four centuries, are in
the shallow waters of the Gulf of California and especially within the 300
miles between Cape San Lucas and Mulege Bay. The fisheries have
centered about the islands of Cerralvo, Espiritu Santo, Carmen, and San
José, and in the bays of Mulege, Ventana, and San Lorenzo. The depth of
water on the reefs ranges from two to twenty-five fathoms, with an average
of probably six or eight fathoms. The species is generally isolated, and
firmly attached by the byssus to the bottom rocks or the stone corals, from
which it may remove in case of necessity, though it probably does not do so
frequently.
The second species is known locally under the name concha nacar, and
has been named Margaritifera (Avicula) vinesi (Rochebonne).[298] It occurs
only in the northern part of the gulf near the mouth of the Colorado River.
Formerly it was abundant in that region, occurring in large areas, but it has
become much reduced and is now little sought after. It is claimed that this
species is far more productive of pearls than the M. margaritifera, and that
it yielded the large quantities obtained by Osio in the eighteenth century.
Although iridescent, the shell is so thin and convex that it is without
commercial value.

Page 309

THE ADAMS GOLD VASE

Ornamented with American
gems and fresh-water pearls,
rock crystal, gold quartz and
agatized wood

Top of vase and side view

Now in the Metropolitan
Museum of Art

The headquarters of the Mexican pearl fishery are at La Paz, the capital
of Lower California, 240 miles northwest of Mazatlan and 150 miles north
of Cape San Lucas. This “Mantle of Peace”—the literal translation of La
Paz—contains about 5000 inhabitants, nearly all of whom are more or less
dependent on the pearl fishery. It presents an attractive picture, with the
cocoanut-palms extending down almost to the water’s edge, and the high
mountains forming a background. The low, stone houses, the tile roofs, the
plaza with tropical trees, and the beautiful flower beds under perennial
sunny skies, give it a quaint appearance. The most conspicuous objects
from the harbor are the large old warehouses, with thick walls and iron-
barred windows, for the storage of the pearls and the shells. During the
season, from April to November, the arrival and departure of the pearling
vessels presents a scene of great animation.
The present methods of the fishery on the Mexican coast are quite
different from those of thirty years ago when nude diving was the only

Page 310

method in vogue. Instead of the haphazard work, largely in shallow water,
the industry is conducted systematically, and the limit of depth is increased,
much of the diving being in depths of ten to fifteen fathoms. The fishermen
operate either from a large vessel making a cruise two or three months in
length, or from a camp on the shore near the reefs. A vessel visits them
frequently to furnish supplies and to transport the catch to La Paz. The
fishing boats are undecked craft, each equipped with an air-pump and a
crew of six men: a diver, a cabo de vida or life-line man, who is usually the
captain, two bomberos at the air-pump, and two rowers.
The greatest depth at which armored diving is attempted in Mexico rarely
exceeds twenty fathoms; twenty-five fathoms is fully as deep as it is
practicable to go, and it is not advisable to remain at that depth more than a
very few minutes. At fifteen fathoms a diver may remain half an hour or
more, and at six or eight fathoms he may work uninterruptedly for several
hours. When the water is very cold, the diver comes up frequently to restore
his numbed circulation by vigorous rubbing. The occupation is especially
conducive to rheumatism, and paralysis is more or less general, due, not
only to the compressed atmosphere, but to the abrupt changes of
temperature. The work is very debilitating, with particular effect on the
nerves, and partial deafness is common. It is important that the diver be
careful about overeating before descending, as heavy foods, and meats
especially, make respiration difficult; therefore, breakfast consists of little
more than bread and coffee. The risks and dangers from sharks, devil-fish,
etc., have greatly diminished since the introduction of scaphanders; for a
stout diver in his waterproof dress, with leads on the breast, shoulders, and
shoes, and on his head a massive helmet containing great gaping windows
for eyes, is enough to cause even a hungry shark to hesitate and to seek a
more digestible meal.
There are yet many nude divers in Mexico, who operate in shallow
waters, their cheap labor making them successful competitors of the
armored divers. In arranging with these, the pearling company commonly
grub-stakes a crew, pays a stipulated sum per hundredweight for the shells,
and bargains for the pearls. If the fishermen are not satisfied with the price
offered for these, they are at liberty to sell to other buyers under certain
restrictions.

Page 311

Nude diving is confined to the warm months, beginning about the middle
of May and continuing until October. Owing to the cloudy or muddy
condition of the water in the gulf, the nude diver can not inspect the bottom
from the surface and select the best oysters before descending, nor can he
work satisfactorily at depths greater than seven or eight fathoms. While the
work is hard, it is more remunerative than the average branch of labor in
this region.
Each day the boats deliver their catch of oysters at the fishing-camps or
on board the receiving vessels. After they have been freed from marine
growths and refuse, the mollusks are opened and searched for pearls. This
operation is performed by trusted employees, usually elderly men who have
become physically disqualified for diving, and who, seated together at a low
table, work under the watchful eyes of overseers. A knife is introduced
between the valves of the oyster, the adductor muscle is severed, and the
valves are separated by breaking the hinge. The animal is removed from the
shell and carefully examined with the eyes and the fingers, and then
squeezed in the hands to locate any pearl which may be concealed in the
organs or tissues. The debris is passed to other persons, who submit it to
further examinations. A man may work all day long and find only a few
seed-pearls, but occasionally there is the excitement of discovering a
beautiful gem.
In some localities the flesh of the pearl-oyster is a source of profit
through its sale to Chinamen, who dry and otherwise prepare it for sale
among their countrymen in Mexico and America, as well as in the Orient.
Frequently the large adductor muscle is dried for food, making excellent
soup-stock, and, indeed, it is quite palatable when stewed.
It is difficult to approximate the output of the Mexican pearl fisheries,
other than the pearl shell, because the dealers place a merely nominal value
on the pearls in their invoices when sending them to Europe, an invoice of
$500 sometimes representing gems valued in Paris at several thousand
dollars. Furthermore, it is difficult to obtain satisfactory information from
the pearling companies, owing, presumably, to the fear of developing
greater competition. According to the estimates at La Paz, the local value of
the pearl yield now approximates $250,000 annually, and the value of the
same over the counters in Europe and America probably exceeds one
million dollars.

Page 312

Some remarkably large pearls have been secured in the Mexican
fisheries, especially considering the small size of the oysters. In 1871 a
pearl of 96 grains, pear-shaped and without a flaw, sold at La Paz for 3000
pesos. In March, 1907, a beautiful pinkish white one, found near the lower
end of the peninsula, sold for 28,000 pesos or $14,000. One of the best
years for choice finds was 1881, when the scaphanders were first employed
to their greatest efficiency. A black pearl was then secured which weighed
112 grains, and which brought 40,000 francs in Paris. In 1882 two,
weighing 124 and 180 grains respectively, sold for 11,000 pesos. In the
following year a light brown pearl, flecked with dark brown, and weighing
260 grains, sold for 7500 pesos. These are the prices which the La Paz
merchants received for these pearls, and not the much greater amounts for
which they were finally sold by the jewelers.
One of the finest pearls was found in 1884 near Mulege. This weighed
372 grains. The Indian fisherman is said to have sold it for $90; the
purchaser declined an offer of 1000 pesos, and also a second offer of 5000,
and soon sold it to a La Paz dealer for 10,000 pesos. Its value in Paris was
estimated at 85,000 francs. Probably the most famous of all pearls obtained
from these grounds was “the 400–grain pearl” found near Loreto, and
“which is now among the royal jewels of Spain.” It is said that this was
offered by the lucky fisherman to the Mission of Loreto, and by the Director
of Missions in Lower California was presented to the Queen of Spain.[299]
As in every other fishery, one hears in Mexico of fishermen who have
grasped a prize only to lose it through inexperience or improvidence. The
account given above of the sale of the 372–grain pearl found near Mulege
furnishes an instance of this. It is related in La Paz that in 1883 an Indian
sold for ten pesos a gem weighing 128 grains, for which the purchaser
received 27,500 francs in Paris. On another occasion a Mexican sold two
pearls, easily worth $4000, for $16 worth of groceries.
In the eighteenth century, the Notre Dame de Loreto possessed a
remarkable collection of Mexican pearls, which had been presented from
time to time by the fishermen. During the régime of the Jesuits, it was
customary to devote the proceeds of the last day of the fishery to the
decoration of the altar of that mission. After the expulsion of this religious
order in 1767, the mission was pillaged and the collection dissipated. From
the old aristocracy of Mexico, family heirlooms of many choice pearls were

Page 313

placed on the European market during the civil wars in Mexico to
contribute to the support of the contending armies. One lady in Sonora is
said to have disposed of her collection for 550,000 francs. A fine collection
of these pearls, accumulated from 1760 to 1850, and showing them in a
great variety of colors, shapes, and sizes, was in Chihuahua until recently.

Page 314

AMERICAN FRESH WATERS
And my pearls are pure as thy own fair neck,
With whose radiant light they vie.

Whittier, The Vaudois Teacher.

The most recently developed pearl fisheries are within the limits of the
United States, in the rivers and fresh-water lakes, and especially those in the
Mississippi Valley. As an important industrial enterprise, these fisheries are
less than two decades old, yet they are very productive, yielding annually
above half a million dollars’ worth of pearls, many of which compare
favorably in quality with those from oriental seas.
The prehistoric mounds in the Mississippi Valley present evidence of the
estimation in which pearls were held by a race of men who passed away
ages before America was first visited by Europeans. In some of these
mounds, erected by a long-forgotten race, pearls have been found not only
in hundreds and in thousands, but by gallons and even by bushels. Some of
these equal three quarters of an inch in diameter, and in quantity exceed the
richest individual collections of the present day. Damaged and partly
decomposed by heat and through centuries of burial, they have lost their
beauty, and are of value only to the archæologist and to indicate the
quantity of pearly treasures possessed by these early people.
Owing to the great wealth of pearls which had been uncovered on the
Spanish Main, at Panama, and in the Gulf of California, Eldorado explorers,
in the sixteenth century, were particularly eager in searching for them
within the present limits of the United States; in the reports of their
wanderings, much space is given to these gems, and these reports aided
largely in inducing and encouraging other expeditions. Some of these
accounts read like the marvelous stories of Sindbad the Sailor, quantities of
pearls—hundreds of pounds in some instances—being secured by the
exchange of trinkets and by more questionable means. It would be easy to
bring together numerous accounts of apparently reliable authorities to show
that in the sixteenth century pearls were obtained here in far greater
quantities than were ever known in any other part of the world; but this
conclusion seems not wholly correct.

Page 315

The unfortunate wanderings of Hernando de Soto from 1539 to 1542
gave rise to most of the reports of rich pearl finds within the limits of this
country. Of this voyage there are three principal accounts. The first was by
Luis Hernandez de Biedma, who had accompanied De Soto as factor for
Charles V of Spain. His brief report was presented to the king in 1544,
although it was not published until 1841, nearly three centuries later, when
it appeared in a French translation.[300] The second, and in our opinion the
most reliable account,[301] published at Evora in 1577, was by an unnamed
Portuguese (in English editions, commonly spoken of as the Gentleman of
Elvas), who was a member of the expedition. The third account,[302] by far
the longest and most widely known, but which was not written until 1591,
was by Garcilasso de la Vega, who represented that his information was
from a Spanish cavalier who had accompanied De Soto.
The only reference made to pearls in Biedma’s report seems to be his
allusion to the large quantity secured at the village of Cofaciqui, on the east
bank of the Savannah River. He states: “When we arrived there, the
queen ... presented the governor with a necklace of pearls of five or six
rows, procured for us canoes to pass the river, and assigned the half of the
village for our quarters. After having been in our company three or four
days, she escaped into the forest; the governor caused search to be made
after her, but without success; he then gave orders to break open a temple
erected in this village, wherein the chiefs of the country were interred. We
took out of it a vast quantity of pearls, which might amount to six or seven
arrobas,[303] but they were spoiled by having been underground.”[304]
The Portuguese narrative alludes to the pearls at Cofaciqui, stating that
the queen “took from her own neck a great cordon of pearls, and cast it
about the neck of the governor.... And the lady, perceiving that the
Christians esteemed the pearls, advised the governor to search certain
graves in the town, where he would find many; and that if he would send to
the abandoned towns, he might load all his horses. He sought the graves of
that town and there found fourteen rows of pearls, and little babies and
birds made of them.”[305] This account makes no further mention of pearls,
except to state that at the battle of Mavilla this great collection was burned,
and that when the Queen of Cofaciqui escaped from the Portuguese she
carried with her a little chest full of unbored pearls, which some of the
Spaniards thought were of great value;[306] and further, that on one or two
other occasions a few pearls were received from the Indians as presents.

Page 316

The account of De Soto’s wanderings, given by Garcilasso, the Peruvian
historian, contains many references to pearls, which read more like romance
than reality. With his knowledge of the jewels, temples, etc., in Mexico and
Peru, and recognizing some similarities in the manners of the people of
those countries and the ones with whom De Soto came in contact,
Garcilasso was easily led to statements which, though possibly true in the
one case, seem fictitious in the other.
He gives the story of the Queen of Cofaciqui, with some additional
particulars. The string of pearls which she presented to the governor made
three circuits of her neck and descended to her waist. In his account, the
graves in Cofaciqui became a temple containing, among other riches, more
than a thousand measures of pearls, of which they took only two. Near
Cofaciqui was the temple of Talomeco, over a hundred steps long by forty
broad, with the walls high in proportion. Upon the roof of the temple were
shells of different sizes, placed with the inside out, to give more brilliancy,
and with the intervals “filled with many strings of pearls of divers sizes, in
the form of festoons, from one shell to the other, and extending from the top
of the roof to the bottom.” Within the temple, festoons of pearls hung from
the ceiling and from all other parts of the building. In the middle were three
rows of chests of graded sizes, arranged in pyramids of five or six chests
each, according to their sizes. “All these chests were filled with pearls, in
such a manner that the largest contain the largest pearls, and thus, in
succession, to the smallest, which were full of seed-pearls only. The
quantity of pearls was such, that the Spaniards avowed, that even if there
had been more than nine hundred men and three hundred horses, they all
together could not have carried off at one time all the pearls of this temple.
We ought not to be too much astonished at this, if we consider that the
Indians of the province conveyed into these chests, during many ages, all
the pearls which they found, without retaining a single one of them.”[307] In
the armory attached to this temple were long pikes, maces, clubs, and other
weapons mounted with links and tassels of pearls.
Garcilasso has an interesting story of an incident said to have occurred a
few days after leaving Cofaciqui, when the troops were passing through the
wilderness.

Page 317

Negro pearling camp on bank of an Arkansas river

Group of Arkansas pearl fishermen; photographed shortly
after the woman in the center of the group had found a pearl
for which she received $800

Juan Terron, one of the stoutest soldiers of the army, toward noon, drew from his saddle-bags
about six pounds of pearls, and pressed a cavalier, one of his friends, to take them. The cavalier
thanked him and told him that he ought to keep them, or rather, since the report was current that the
general would send to Havana, send them there to buy horses and go no longer afoot. Offended at
this answer, Terron replied that “these pearls then shall not go any farther,” and thereupon scattered
them here and there upon the grass and through the bushes. They were surprised at this folly, for the
pearls were as large as hazel-nuts, and of very fine water, and because they were not pierced they
were worth more than six thousand ducats. They collected about thirty of these pearls, which were so
beautiful that it made them regret the loss of the others, and say, in raillery, these words, which
passed into a proverb with them, “There are no pearls for Juan Terron.”[308]

Page 318

At the capital of Iciaha, De Soto received from the cacique or chief, a
string, five feet in length, of beautiful and well-matched pearls as large as
filberts. Upon De Soto’s expressing a desire to learn how the gems were
extracted from the shells, the chief immediately ordered four boats to fish
all night and return in the morning.
In the meantime they burnt a great deal of wood upon the shore, in order to make there a great bed
of live coals, that at the return of the boats they might put thereon the shells, which would open with
the heat. They found, at the opening of the first shells, ten or twelve pearls of the size of a pea, which
they took to the cacique, and to the general who was present, and who found them very beautiful,
except that the fire had deprived them of a part of their lustre. When the general had seen what he
wished, he returned to dine; and immediately after, a soldier entered, who instantly said to him that,
in eating oysters which the Indians had caught, his teeth had encountered a very beautiful pearl of a
very lively color, and that he begged him to receive it to send to the governess of Cuba. Soto politely
refused this pearl, and assured the soldier that he was as obliged to him as if he had accepted it; and
that some day he would try to acknowledge his kindness, and the honor which he did his wife; and
that he should preserve it to purchase horses at Havana. The Spaniards valued it at four hundred
ducats; and as they had not made use of fire to extract it, it had not lost any of its lustre.[309]
Notwithstanding the strong indorsement given to Garcilasso’s narrative
by Theodore Irving and some other writers, his tendency to exaggerate
depreciates greatly the historical value of his account, and it seems wholly
unreliable as an authority relative to early resources in America. We may
reasonably doubt whether De Soto’s expedition came in contact with more
pearls than those mentioned by Biedma and the Portuguese writer.
The account of the first voyage along the coast of the United States, that
of the Italian, Juan Verrazano, in 1524, contains no reference to pearls,
although he penetrated into the interior a score or two of miles, and was
frequently in contact with the natives, who lived largely by fishing, and who
prized many ornaments of different colored stones, copper rings, etc.
The first expedition which went far into the interior was the ill-fated one
under command of Pánfilo de Narvaez in 1528. A thrilling account[310] of
this journey was written by Cabeza de Vaca, who was one of the four
survivors, after eight years’ wandering through America to Mexico. Cabeza
had been controller and royal treasurer of the expedition, and in that
position it was his particular duty to acquaint himself with all the pearls,
gold, and similar riches found by the party. Notwithstanding his tradings
with the Indians and their efforts to gain his friendship by means of
presents, his account makes no mention of pearls, except to refer to a
statement made by some Indians that on the coast of the South Sea there
were pearls and great riches.

Page 319

Hernando D’Escalante Fontaneda, who was shipwrecked on the Florida
coast about 1550, and was detained there a prisoner for seventeen years,
wrote:
“Between Abolachi [Appalachicola] and Olagale is a river which the Indians call Guasaca-Esqui,
which means Reed River. It is on the sea-coast, and at the mouth of this river the pearls are found in
oysters and other shells; from thence they are carried into all the provinces and villages of
Florida.”[311]
The European narrators also reported great stores of pearls along the
Atlantic seaboard. Among the first of these may be mentioned David
Ingram, who is represented as traveling by land from the Gulf of Mexico to
the vicinity of Cape Breton in the years 1568 and 1569. As it appeared in
the first edition of Hakluyt’s Voyages, this relation states:
“There is in some of those Countreys great abundance of Pearle, for in every Cottage he founde
Pearle, in some howse a quarte, in some a pottel [half a gallon], in some a pecke, more or less, where
he did see some as great as an Acorn; and Richard Browne, one of his Companyons, found one of
these great Pearls in one of their Canoes, or Boates, wch Pearls he gave to Mouns Campaine, whoe
toke them aboarde his shippe.”[312]
Estimation of Ingram’s wonderful relation is decreased by Purchas’s
comment:
As for David Ingram’s perambulations to the north parts, Master Hakluyt, in his first edition
printed the same; but it seemeth some incredibilities of his reports caused him to leave him out in the
next impression; the reward of lying being, not to be believed in truths.[313]
Even the members of Raleigh’s Roanoke Colony of 1585 reported pearls.
Hariot stated:
Sometimes in feeding on Muscles we found some Pearle: but it was our happe to meet with ragges,
or of a pide colour: not having yet discovered those places where we heard of better and more plenty.
One of our company, a man of skill in such matters, had gathered from among the Savage people
about five thousand: of which number he chooses so many as made a faire chaine, which for their
likenesse and uniformity in roundenesse, orientnesse, and piednesse of many excellent colours, with
equality in greatnesse, were very faire and rare: and had therefore been presented to her Majesty, had
we not by casualty, and through extremity of a storme lost them, with many things els in coming
away from the countrey.[314]
So far as we can learn, there is no evidence to show that, during the
sixteenth or the seventeenth century, any pearls of value were received in
Europe from within the present limits of the United States, as was the case
with the resources of Venezuela, Panama and Mexico. Many of the accounts
quoted above seem wholly fictitious, some of them possibly drawn up for
the purpose of promoting exploring expeditions. It is also probable that
knowledge of the enormous collections at Venezuela and Panama misled
some of the narrators into recognizing as pearls the spherical pieces of shell

Page 320

or even the cylindrical wampum which the Indians made in large quantities
and used as money.
However, it is unquestionable that pearls of value were in the possession
of some of the wealthier tribes. Biedma’s account of the 150 pounds or
more of damaged pearls in the graves at Cofaciqui seems wholly reliable,
and likewise many other statements; and it is an interesting problem to
determine the source from which the Indians obtained them.
Most of the narratives refer to the pearls as coming from the coast of the
South Sea or Gulf of Mexico. The evidence of Fontaneda, who had spent
seventeen years in the country, throws some light on this. He states that
pearls were obtained at the mouth of Reed River near Appalachicola,
whence they were distributed throughout Florida. This seems to indicate
that on the west coast of Florida there might have been extensive reefs of
pearl-bearing mollusks, which have since become extinct, although existing
shell-heaps do not confirm this.
While it is possible and even probable that many of these pearls in the
possession of the Indians came from the Gulf of Mexico or even from the
Caribbean Sea, it seems much more likely that they came largely from the
Unios of the inland lakes and rivers.
The voyages of Narvaez, Ayllon, De Soto, Ribault, etc., had been so
unfortunate that for a century little exploration was made in the territory of
the southern part of the United States. When this territory was again
invaded, little was seen in the way of pearls.
Iberville, who established the French settlement near the mouth of the
Mississippi in 1699, was specially directed to look for them. His
instructions state: “Although the pearls presented to his Majesty are not fine
either in water or shape, they must nevertheless be carefully sought, as
better may be found, and his Majesty desires M. d’Iberville to bring all he
can; ascertain where the fishery is carried on, and see it in operation.”[315]
Pearls were found in the territory of the Pascagoulas, but they were not
worth the trouble of securing them. It appears that from these the Pearl
River in Mississippi derived its name.
The only reference to pearls in the seventy-one volumes of Travels and
Explorations of the Jesuit Missionaries in New France, from 1610 to 1791,
is a note by Father Gravier stating that he saw no choice pearls: “It is true
the chief’s wife has some small pearls; but they are neither round nor well

Page 321

pierced, with the exception of seven or eight, which are as large as small
peas, and have been bought for more than they are worth.”[316]
Daniel Coxe’s description, in 1722, of pearl resources in America, is of
special interest because of the extended experience of his father as a trader
in the country. He states:
Pearls are found to be in great abundance in this country; the Indians put some value upon them,
but not so much as on the colored beads we bring them. On the whole coast of this province, for two
hundred leagues, there are many vast beds of oysters which breed pearls, as has been found in divers
places. But, which is very remarkable, far from the sea, in fresh water rivers and lakes, there is a sort
of shell-fish between a mussel and a , wherein are found abundance of pearls, and many of an
unusual magnitude. The Indians, when they take the oysters, broil them over the fire till they are fit to
eat, keeping the large pearls they find in them, which by the heat are tarnished and lose their native
lustre; but, when we have taught them the right method, doubtless it would be a very profitable trade.
There are two places we already know within land, in each of which there is a great pearl fishery.
One about

BROOCH, RENAISSANCE
STYLE, SET WITH
BAROQUE PEARLS, FROM
AMERICAN STREAMS

Pan-American Exposition,
1901

one hundred and twenty leagues up the River Meschacebe [Mississippi], on the west side, in a lake
made by the river of the Naches, about forty miles from its mouth, where they are found in great
plenty and many very large. The other on the River Chiaha, which runs into the Coza or Cussaw
River (as our English call it), and which comes from the northeast, and, after a course of some
hundred miles, disembogues into the Gulf of Florida, about one hundred miles to the east of the
Meschacebe.[317]

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It is interesting to note that the first place mentioned by Coxe as the
location of a great pearl fishery is not far from one of the most productive
pearling regions of the last fifteen years, viz., the eastern part of Arkansas.
The second place noted by him appears to be identical with the Iciaha,
where, nearly two centuries before, the Indians exhibited the methods of
their fishing to De Soto and his companions.
Excepting Coxe’s notice, for 250 years following 1600, little was heard
of the occurrence of pearls within this country. This does not indicate
necessarily that the gems were absent from the waters; but, not using the
Unios for food as did the aborigines, the residents had little occasion to
open them and in this way learn of their contents. And even where pearls
were occasionally found in mollusks opened for fish-bait, the people were
in few instances informed as to their market value, and did not attempt to
sell them, although the most attractive ones may have been treasured as
ornaments or as keepsakes. This was paralleled in the diamond fields of
South Africa, where gems worth thousands of dollars were used as
playthings by the farmers’ children. A jewel, like a prophet, is frequently
without honor in its own country until the residents of that country learn of
the great esteem in which it is held elsewhere.
And yet, in some localities a few pearls were collected from time to time.
The Moravians—familiar with the pearls of their native streams in Europe
—gathered many from the Lehigh River near Bethlehem, Pennsylvania,
over a century ago;[318] and from Rhode Island and elsewhere a few were
obtained.
The first awakening to a realization of the value of fresh-water pearls in
America occurred fifty years ago, when several beautiful gems were
marketed from the northern part of New Jersey. The story of this find has
been frequently told. A shoemaker named David Howell, who lived on the
outskirts of Paterson, occasionally relieved the monotony of his trade by a
fishing excursion to some neighboring stream, where he would usually
collect a “mess” of mussels. Returning from one of these visits to Notch
Brook in the spring of 1857, the mussels were fried with the usual
abundance of grease and heat. After this preparation, one of them was found
to contain a large, round pearl weighing “nearly 400 grains,” which
possibly might have proven the finest of modern times, had not its luster
and beauty been destroyed by the heat and grease.[319] Had the pearl been

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discovered in time, its value might have exceeded $25,000, thus making
poor Howell’s fried mussels one of the most expensive of suppers.
Hoping to duplicate his wonderful find, Howell collected and searched
other mussels, and his example was followed by several of his neighbors.
Within a few days a magnificent pink pearl was found by a Paterson
carpenter named Jacob Quackenbush. This weighed ninety-three grains, and
was bought by the late Charles L. Tiffany for Messrs. Tiffany & Co., New
York City, for $1500. Mr. Tiffany later described with much interest the
feelings he experienced after making the purchase. Said he: “Here this man
finds a pearl within seventeen miles of our place of business! What if
thousands should be found, and many perhaps finer than this one! However,
we risked buying the pearl, and as no one in New York seemed interested in
it, we sent it to our Paris house for sale, and a French gem dealer offered for
it a very large advance on the original price, paying 12,500 francs.” From
this dealer it passed into the possession of the young and beautiful Empress
Eugénie, from whom and from its great luster it derived the name “Queen
Pearl.” Its present market value would doubtless amount to $10,000 or
more.
When news of the very large price received for Quackenbush’s find
became public, great excitement developed in the vicinity of Notch Brook.
Persons came from all directions to search in the shallow streams for
valuable pearls. Farmers of the neighborhood tried their luck, and also
mechanics and other residents of the adjacent villages and towns, and even
some from Newark, Jersey City, and New York. An old resident, who was
an eye-witness, describes the scene as one of great animation, the crowds of
people and the horses and wagons along the shore giving “an appearance of
camp-meeting time.” At least one schoolmaster in the vicinity is said to
have closed his school to give his pupils an opportunity to engage in the
hunt.
With trousers rolled up, the people waded into the shallow water and
sought for the mussels in the mud and sand on the bottom. Many pearls
were secured, but none approached in size or value the two above noted.[320]
During 1857, the New York City market received about $15,000 worth of
pearls from these waters, and in addition many were sold locally or retained
as souvenirs of the hunt. At the low price of pearls existing then, this figure
would mean possibly ten times as much at present, or $150,000.

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The active search soon depleted the resources of the little stream, so that
in the following year the reported value of the yield was only a few
thousand dollars. The decrease continued until in a few years practically
every mussel was removed, and at present scarcely a single Unio is to be
found in these waters.
The interest in pearling extended far from the place of the original find;
and in Pennsylvania, Ohio, and even as far away as Texas, search was made
in the streams. In the Colorado and its tributaries, about 20,000 were found
in a short while. Most of these were small and unattractive, but a
considerable number were reported “as large as pepper-corns” and a few
“the size of a small rifle ball,” the number decreasing with the increase in
size. A correspondent in the “Neue Zeit” wrote:
Sometimes they are round, sometimes cylindrical, elliptical, hemispherical, or of an altogether
irregular shape. The finest have a milk-white, silvery sheen; many, however, are reddish yellow,
bluish brown, or quite black; the last naturally have no value whatever. As to their value, there is
considerable uncertainty, and it can easily be understood that those who have a great number of them
in their possession greatly overestimate them. So far they are found principally in the Llano and the
San Saba.[321]
After the resources in northern New Jersey were depleted and the
excitement had died out, little was heard of pearling in this country until
1878, when many were found in Little Miami River in southwestern Ohio.
The fishing was carried on at low water, and principally by boys, who
would wade out in the water and feel for the mollusks with their feet, and
then bob under and pick them up with their hands. The senior author spent a
day in this fishery with a party of six boys with some success. During 1878
about $25,000 worth of pearls were collected in the vicinity of Waynesville
on that stream. Mr. Israel H. Harris, a banker of Waynesville, then began
collecting these pearls; and by purchasing during several years nearly every
interesting specimen found in the vicinity, he made his collection one of the
largest and best known in the country. When sold in 1888, it contained
several thousand pearls, mostly of small size, averaging in weight little
more than one grain each. A large portion of this collection was exhibited in
the American section of the Paris Exposition of 1889, and was awarded a
gold medal. Included in this exhibit was a series of ornaments in which the
gems were arranged according to color, so that in one the pearls were green,
in another purplish brown, in another pink, in another waxy white, and in
one a cream-white. It also contained a button-shaped pearl weighing thirty-
eight grains and several pink ones almost translucent. A pink pearl of eight

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grains was admired by all who saw it; by reflected light this had the color
and translucency of a drop of molten silver. Many of the pink pearls found
in the Little Miami and its tributaries were of the most beautiful rose-petal
pink; pearls of this peculiar color have never been found in any other
waters.
From Ohio the industry gradually extended westward and southward, and
new fields were developed, pearls to the value of about $10,000 annually
coming on the market from such widely separated States as Vermont,
Kentucky, Tennessee, Florida, Texas, Washington, etc. However, little
general interest was taken in fresh-water pearls, and few choice ones were
found until the magnificent resources of the upper Mississippi Valley were
discovered. Owing to the ease with which the mollusks may be collected by
wading, it was in the relatively shallow tributaries that the fishery first
developed, rather than in the deep channels of the main stream and of the
large affluents.
The first region in the Mississippi Valley to attract attention was
southwestern Wisconsin. Early in the summer of 1889, many beautiful
pearls were found in Pecatonica River, a tributary of Rock River, which in
turn empties into the Mississippi. Within three months, $10,000 worth of
gems were sent from this region to New York City alone, including one
worth $500, which was a very considerable sum for a fresh-water pearl at
that time. The interest quickly spread to neighboring waters, and within a
short time pearls were found also in Sugar River, in Apple River, in Rock
River, in Wisconsin River, and in the Mississippi in the vicinity of Prairie
du Chien. The fact that little experience and no capital was required for the
business drew large numbers of persons to the newly-found Klondike; and
the finds were so numerous and of such high quality that about $300,000
worth of pearls were collected before the end of 1891, greatly exceeding all
records for fresh waters.
The Wisconsin pearls are remarkable for their beauty, luster, and
diversified coloring, and some lovely shades of pink, purple, and especially
metallic green have been found. Several of them have weighed in excess of
fifty grains each, and some individual values ran well into four figures. One
shipment made from Sugar River to London in September, 1890, contained
ninety-three pearls, weighing from four to twenty-eight grains each, for

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which £11,700 was received in payment. In the limits of one county in the
following year, pearls to the value of nearly $100,000 were secured.

BROOCHES AND RINGS
OF FRESH-WATER
PEARLS FROM
WISCONSIN AND
TENNESSEE

Paris Exposition, 1900

Shortly following the outbreak of pearling in Wisconsin came the
development of interest in certain parts of Tennessee. For many years pearls
had been secured from the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers and their
tributaries, especially Caney Fork, Duck, Calf Killer, and Elk rivers, the
headquarters of the fishery and the local markets being Carthage,
Smithville, Columbia, and Arlington. The search had been conducted in a
moderate way by pleasure parties in the summer, and by farmers after the
crops had been laid aside.
In 1901 pearling excitement developed in the mountain regions of eastern
Tennessee, especially in Clinch River. These newly-discovered resources
proved so valuable that the local interest became very great. Vivid and
picturesque accounts published in the local papers reported hundreds of
persons as camping at various points along the streams, some in tents and
some in rough shanties, and others going from shoal to shoal in newly-built

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house-boats. They were described as easygoing, pleasure-loving people, the
men, women, and children working hard all day, subsisting largely on fish
caught in the same stream, and dancing at night to the music of a banjo
around the camp-fires. The center of the new industry was Clinton, the
county seat of Anderson County, whither the successful hunters betook
themselves each Saturday, the preferred time for selling the catch.
The next outbreak of pearling excitement was in Arkansas, in the region
referred to by Daniel Coxe two centuries ago as the location of great pearl
resources.[322] Although in recent times little had been heard of pearls in
Arkansas previous to 1895, they were not unknown in that State. For years
they had been picked up by the fishermen, and used as lucky stones or
given to the children for playthings. Some had come into the possession of
persons acquainted with their value. About 1875, a few pearls were
collected by a party of men engaged in cutting cedar poles on White River;
in 1888, a brilliant pear-shaped pink pearl of twenty-seven grains was
secured from the same river, and sold to a prominent resident. Little had
been said about these finds, and in general the people of Arkansas had slight
idea of the occurrence or the value of pearls in those waters.
In 1895, a surveying party on White River found pearls in the Unios of
that stream, and collected them to the value of about $5000. News of this
discovery attracted attention to the resource, and other persons sought for
the gems in the White River and its tributaries, in the St. Francis and the
Arkansas rivers. The unusually low water in 1896 facilitated the fishery,
and resulted in the discovery of many large and valuable gems. The interest
developed rapidly, and within twelve months nearly every stream of water
in Arkansas yielded pearls, with the finds most extensive and valuable in
White River and its tributary the Black River, which has proved to be the
richest pearling region in America. The industry centered at Black Rock,
more than a thousand persons fishing within twenty miles of that place. It is
estimated that within three years following the development of this fishery,
this State yielded pearls to the value of more than $500,000.
When the Arkansas fishery was at its height, it was reported that ten
thousand persons were employed therein. The fishermen were from nearly
every class and condition in the State. Women were not absent; even
children participated in the industry, and some proved more fortunate than
the older hunters. It was not uncommon to see several hundred persons

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congregated at one bar or in one stretch of the river, all intent on making a
fortune, and all occupied in fishing or in opening the shells. So complete
was the absorption of the people in this pursuit, and so many of the farm-
hands were occupied in the eager search for anticipated fortunes, that the
local papers reported much apprehension and difficulty in harvesting the
cotton and other crops.
Within the main channel of the Mississippi, the relative scarcity of pearls
in the Unios, and the greater preparation required for collecting the
mollusks in the deep waters, retarded the fishery until the establishment of
button manufacture afforded a market for the shells, this originating in
1891. The industry developed rapidly, and for several years has consumed
about 35,000 tons of shells annually, obtained principally in the Mississippi
between Quincy and La Crosse, and to a much less extent in other streams
in this valley. This is more than twice the total product of mother-of-pearl
shell in all parts of the world. However, the value per ton is very much less
than that of the best grade of mother-of-pearl; that from Australia, for
instance, commonly selling for $1200 per ton, whereas the Mississippi shell
usually sells for less than $20, although the very choicest may bring upward
of $50 per ton.
The gathering of shells for manufacture has extended to many of the
large tributaries of the Mississippi, especially the Arkansas, the White, the
St. Francis, the Ohio and the Illinois rivers, and this industry has added
largely to the pearl yield in these waters.
In the last three years, the scenes of greatest activity have been the
Wabash River and its tributaries, where shell-collecting developed in 1903,
and the Illinois River, where the industry was of little importance previous
to 1906. On the Wabash, camps were established at almost every town,
from the mouth up to St. Francis, Illinois, and about one thousand persons
found employment. Some of the most beautiful American gems have come
from this river. They are usually silvery white in color and of the sweetest
luster. A single pearl weighing only ten grains has been sold at the river for
$1000; but it is frequently the case that a fine gem will sell for more at the
place where found than in the great markets. During the spring of 1907,
three pearls were found in the Wabash near Vincennes, which weighed
forty-one, fifty-one, and fifty-three grains respectively. One of these was
white, one faint pink, and the third was yellow. The finest pearls have been

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reported from the vicinity of Mount Carmel near the lower end of the river.
Very large quantities of baroques or slugs are found in the Wabash and the
Illinois; 30,000 ounces were reported from those rivers and their tributaries
in 1907, for which the fishermen received a total of $50,000. A large
symmetrical pearl found during 1907 weighed a trifle under 150 grains, and
a slug was found which weighed fully one ounce, or 606 grains.
The pearl-hunting excitement has been felt even on the Atlantic seaboard,
as a result of the publication of the discoveries in the Mississippi Valley. In
Maine many pearls have been reported, especially in the vicinity of
Moosehead Lake. In 1901 over one hundred were found in that vicinity;
most of them were of little value, but more than a dozen were worth $10 or
$15 each. Three found by Kineo guides were sold for an aggregate of $300.
The choicest one reported in that year weighed twelve and one half grains
and sold for $150; had it been perfect in form and luster its value would
have been several times that amount. Most of these pearls were found by
Moosehead guides, who found purchasers among the visiting fishermen and
hunters.
Since 1901 many farm-boys as well as guides have devoted much
attention to the business, some of them deriving as large a revenue
therefrom as from the use of the rifle. Good finds have been made, during
the last year or two especially. In 1906, one choice pearl sold for $700, and
many have sold for $10 to $75 each. The search has proven so alluring that
returning visitors have complained that some of the guides care to do little
more than search every rill, brook, and creek they come across looking for
the mollusks. Just at present the principal attention seems to be directed to
the streams in the western part of Maine, where the river-beds are more
sandy and the shell-fish more abundant than in the northern and eastern part
of the State.
In Massachusetts pearls have been collected from many of the ponds and
brooks. In Nonesuch Pond in Weston, the Unio complanata has yielded
many small ones of attractive appearance, but not of sufficient size or luster
to sell for more than $10 each. Ponds in the town of Greenwich and also in
Pelham in Hampshire County are among the best in Massachusetts for
pearls. The Sudbury River above Concord also yields many. Relatively few
of the Unios contain pearls, and the gem-bearing individuals seem to be
grouped in special localities. Outside of these places, thousands of mussels

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may be opened without revealing a single gem. A collection of small
Massachusetts pearls was brought together a few years ago by Mr. Sherman
F. Denton of Wellesley Farms, who has devoted much time to exploring the
inland waters of Massachusetts.
Connecticut also has had a slight touch of the pearl fever. In 1897, Mr. C.
S. Carwell of Ledyard, explored the headwaters of Mystic River, and in a
few weeks collected a number of pearls, one of which he is reported as
having sold for $500, and two others were estimated at $400 each. And
from the other end of the State, along the Shepaug River, is reported a
similar account of the success of Mr. Arlo Kinney of Steep Rock. Attracted
by these reports, crowds of seekers have proceeded in the usual reckless
manner to make wholesale destruction of the mollusks. The finds have been
especially large and valuable in the lakes and streams of Litchfield County,
particularly in Bantam Lake.
In New York State, pearls have been found in the swift shallow streams
in the Adirondack region, and in several of those entering the St. Lawrence,
particularly the Grass River in St. Lawrence County. Pearls were first
reported from this region in 1894. In 1896 the Grass yielded one pearl
weighing fifty-eight grains, worth $600 locally; and in 1897 one weighing
sixty-eight grains was found, the fisherman selling it for $800. A resident of
Russell township devoted most of his time to pearling in Grass River during
1896 and 1897, from which he is said to have realized $2000. In this region
the mussels are found by wading in the shallow water and scanning the
bottom through a water-telescope. Most of the pearls are of slight value, but
many individuals are reported as worth from $30 to $60 each.
Pearl River in Rockland County, New York, has furnished a number of
brown pearls. These are commonly small, weighing from one eighth to one
half grain each, although some weigh seven or eight grains each. Most of
these are not lustrous, but occasionally a bright brown or a bright copper-
brown specimen of from one to four grains is met with. At the Paris
Exposition, in 1900, were exhibited one hundred of these pearls, with an
aggregate weight of 281 grains; these now form part of the Morgan-Tiffany
Collection, in the American Museum of Natural History.
Even in the rich coal regions of Pennsylvania pearls are found. Possibly
the most productive section in that State has been the headwaters of the
Schuylkill River in the vicinity of Tamaqua, Quakake, and Mahony City. Of

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the tributaries of the Schuylkill, those contributing largely to the yield have
been Lewiston, Nipert, Still, Locust, and Hecla. These rise in the mountains
and are rivulets of fair size by the time they reach their common outlet.

PEARL-BEARING UNIOS

From the Mississippi Valley

The upper pictures show the
two valves of the same shell,
and the pearl is detachable

The original pearl finds in the Schuylkill date from half a century ago,
when they were secured by farmers who used the mussel shells in removing
hair from the hides of slaughtered pigs. During the Mississippi pearling
excitement in 1897, several persons from New York, who were summering
in Schuylkill County, searched the small streams for pearl-bearing mussels
with such success that within a short while many farmers became
enthusiastic hunters during their spare time. Half a dozen or more men did
very well, their catch amounting to thousands of dollars’ worth. Mr. Frank
M. Ebert, of Quakake, has put most of his spare time in the business in the
last ten years, and has secured many good pearls. It is estimated that the
total catch in Schuylkill County alone approximates $20,000 at local values.
So actively has the search been conducted that at present few adult mussels
of the pearl-bearing species remain, and a day’s work may result in finding
less than a dozen.
The best price reported as received by a local fisherman was $200 for a
twenty-grain pearl in the year 1904. Many individual specimens have been

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sold at prices ranging from $100 to $175. It is claimed that a pearl sold by a
fisherman in Schuylkill for fifty cents was later marketed in Philadelphia
for $125, and with slight mounting was ultimately sold for $1600. The most
attractive weigh from ten to twenty grains each; larger ones have been
found, weighing up to thirty-eight grains, but as a rule the luster is not so
good as that possessed by pearls of medium size. The common colors are
dark blue, pink, lavender, and white. A few are black and some are brown.
The brown pearls are seldom of value, owing to deficiency in luster.
In Maryland pearls have been collected from the brooks near the head of
Chesapeake Bay, and especially in Kent and Cecil counties. These are of
almost every conceivable color, ranging from a clear white to a dainty pink,
and to very dark colors, especially bronze and copper. Most of them are too
small for commercial value, and only a few reach sufficient size to
command more than $5 or $10 each, but single specimens have sold as high
as $50.
Georgia has yielded some pearls, chiefly in the vicinity of Rome, at the
junction of the Etowah and Oostanaula rivers. This is believed to be the site
of the Indian town Cofaciqui, where, in his memorable expedition of 1540–
1541, De Soto found the natives in possession of so many pearls. The
general news of finds in the Mississippi Valley stirred up local interest in
this region in 1897, and when the streams were low and clear in the autumn
many persons engaged in hunting the mussels. An ex-sheriff of Rome is
reported as having secured about fifty pearls, lustrous but irregular. A few
miles above Rome, a farmer made a trial on Johns Creek, a tributary of the
Oostanaula; and from a basketful of Unios he reports finding several
marketable pearls for which he received $180 from a Baltimore jeweler.
Others followed, and many fine specimens were secured. Unios are
especially abundant in the Flint, Ocmulgee, and Oconee rivers, and it seems
probable that many pearls might be found in these streams.
Florida has not yet been actively exploited, but it may prove a productive
region ere long. The reports of De Soto’s expedition make special reference
to the size and beauty of the pearls found at a point where he crossed the
Ocklocknee River about thirty miles above its mouth, near the present site
of Langston, Wakulla County. And there seems little doubt that pearls may
be found in the Ocklocknee and also in its affluent, the Sopchoppy River.

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The banks of these streams are full of shells, and pearls of choice color have
been sent from there.
It is unnecessary to refer in detail to the origin of pearling in each of the
States. The general interest in this industry from 1889 to the present time
has resulted in the examination of most of the rivers and creeks, and in few
has the search been entirely unrewarded, although the finds have been
relatively much greater in some waters than in others. As a rule, pearl-
bearing Unios are most numerous in clear, swift streams, with sandy or
gravelly bottoms and which flow through calcareous rocks. With pearlers as
with miners, there is a stampede to the places where a good find is reported,
since the rivers are free for all; consequently, there is much variation from
year to year in the amount of attention which the individual streams and
localities receive.
While many of the pearlers operating in the Mississippi River are
professional fishermen or rivermen, most of those in the smaller streams
have had no previous experience in similar work. Frequently whole families
come twenty or thirty miles, and even greater distances, and camp on the
river bank. In many instances farm-hands are there who have abandoned
their crops, mechanics who have left steady jobs, railway men who have
taken a lay-off, teachers, merchants, all eager and expecting to find a
fortune. In some localities, pearl fishing has been used as an attraction in
big picnic advertisements, and has drawn larger crowds than a public orator.
The mollusks are removed from the river bottoms in various ways and by
many forms of apparatus. In the shallow streams the fishermen simply wade
out in the water and pick up the shells by hand. If not readily visible from
the surface, the shells may be located with the bare feet or by the use of a
water-telescope. Where the water is too deep for wading, the fishermen
work from small boats, and use garden rakes or other convenient
inplements.
Where pearling has developed into more of an industry, special forms of
rakes and drags are employed. A shoulder rake, with a handle twelve to
twenty feet in length, is used extensively under the ice in frozen rivers, and
in lakes and other places where the water is still and from eight to fifteen
feet in depth. This is simply an overgrown or enlarged garden rake, armed
with twelve or fifteen iron teeth about five inches in length. A wire scoop or
basket is attached to receive the catch as it is pulled from the bottom by the

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teeth, and when this scoop is well filled it is lifted and the contents dumped
on the ice or into the skiff. This method is laborious, and is employed only
where the water is shallow and the mollusks are abundant. Scissor tongs—
similar to those used by oystermen on the Atlantic coast—are also
employed in some localities, especially in Arkansas, where it is estimated
that 1700 pairs were manufactured and sold in 1899 and 1900, at about $7
each.
In the large streams of the Mississippi Valley, with their slow and steady
currents, and where the Unios are taken largely for their shells to be used in
button manufacture, the most popular form of apparatus since 1896 has
been the crowfoot drag. This ingenious contrivance consists of a cross-bar
of hollow iron tubing or common gas-pipe, six or eight feet long, to which
are attached, at intervals of five or six inches, stout twine or chain snoods or
stagings, each about eighteen inches in length. To each of these are attached
three or four prongs or “hooks,” about six inches apart. These “hooks” are
four-pronged, and are made of two pieces of stout wire bent at right angles
to each other. According to the depth of the water, from twenty-five to
seventy-five feet of three quarter inch rope is attached to the drag for the
purpose of towing it behind the boat, which is permitted to drift down the
stream with the current. This contrivance costs about $3, and each
fisherman generally has at least two of them, as well as a wide flat-bottom
boat costing $5 or $10.
Sometimes, when the current is light, the fisherman prepares a “mule” to
assist the boat in towing the resisting drag. This “mule” consists of a
wooden frame, hinged in V-shape, and is fastened several feet in advance of
the boat with the V end pointed down the stream. It sinks low in the water,
and the current pressing against the angle carries it along, and thus tows the
skiff and the resisting drag at a uniform rate of speed. When there is not
sufficient current even for this contrivance, as in the wide reaches and in the
lakes, oars, sails, and even power engines may be used for propelling the
boat.
As the crowfoot drag is slowly drawn along the bottom, it comes in
contact with the mollusks feeding with open shells. When a hook or other
part of the drag enters an open shell, the mollusk immediately closes firmly
upon the intruding object and clings thereto long enough to be drawn up
into the boat. In this way, where the Unios are thick, nearly every hook

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becomes freighted, and some may have two or three shells clinging thereto.
It is easy to collect fifty mollusks in passing over a length of two hundred
feet. Two drags are carried by each fisherman, and the second one is put
overboard as soon as the first one is ready to be raised. This is suspended
with the bar across two upright forks on either side of the boat with the
prongs swinging freely, and the mussels are removed therefrom. When this
operation is completed, the drag is put overboard and the other one is ready
for lifting. This apparatus is very effective, and as much as a ton of shells
has been taken by one man in twelve hours, but the average is very much
less, probably not over four or five hundred pounds. Objection is made to
this manner of fishing, since many mollusks not brought to the surface are
so injured that they die.
A cruder implement of similar type has long been employed on many
logging streams. The weighted branch of a tree is dragged on the bottom
behind a raft of logs, and the mussels attach themselves to the twigs in the
same manner as on the crowfoot hooks.
During the pearling excitement in Arkansas, a considerable portion of the
choice pearls were found, not in the mussels, but lying loosely in the mud
of the shores, indicating that under some circumstances, as agitation by
freshets or floods, the loose pearls are shaken out from the Unios. In some
instances, indeed, the pearls were found upon or in the soil at some distance
from streams or lakes. It is reported that in October, 1897, Mr. J. W.
McIntosh, of the northern part of Lonoke County, while digging post-holes
in the old bed of Cypress Bayou, found a number of pearls, some “as large
as a 44–caliber Winchester ball,” lying within the shells at a depth of a foot
and a half below the surface. This peculiar occurrence is partly explained by
the wide extension of the waters in flood times over the low region, and by
the shifting of streams and the isolation of cut-offs.
Stray pearls have been found in many other odd places, as in the viscera
of chickens and ducks, in the stomachs of fish, and even within a pig’s
mouth. It is not an uncommon scene in the pearling region to see men
raking over the muck in hog-pens along the river banks, hoping there to
find a stray pearl lost from the mussels with which the animals had been fed
by persons who had indeed “cast pearls before swine.” It is related that a
Negro near Marley, Illinois, in this way secured a pearl weighing 118

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grains, for which he received $2000 from a St. Louis buyer, and which was
ultimately sold to a New York dealer for $5000.

Pearling scene on White River, Arkansas

The fishermen are using scissor tongs from flat-bottom
skiffs

Pearling camp on upper Mississippi River

Crowfoot drags are shown on the flat-bottom skiffs at the
river bank

Page 337

During the height of the Arkansas pearling excitement in 1897, the
speculative spirit was so rife that many persons—unwilling to engage in the
labor of fishing—purchased unopened mussels from the fishermen in the
venture for aleatory profits. The price for these ranged from twenty-five
cents to $2 per hundred, and fluctuated rapidly, according to the immediate
results, increasing several hundred per cent. in a few minutes under the
influence of a valuable find. One fisherman sold mussels to the value of $28
in one day, and thought he had made an excellent bargain until over $1000
worth of pearls were revealed when the shells were opened.
While some pearlers work in southern streams throughout the year,
generally the season is coincident with warm weather, when the water is
low and the work may be conducted with comfort. In the vicinity of
Muscatine and Rock Island about twelve years ago, large quantities of
Unios were taken during the winter when the river was frozen over, the men
working with long rakes from the surface of the ice.
When only a few mollusks are taken, they are readily opened with a knife
to permit a search for the pearls. But where there are many, as in the
Mississippi River, the opening is facilitated by heating. After a sufficient
catch has been obtained, they are subjected to the action of steam in a box,
or they are heated in an ordinary kettle; a few minutes of steaming or
cooking are sufficient to cause the shells to spring open. The fleshy parts
are removed and thoroughly searched, the interior surfaces of the shells are
likewise examined for attached pearls, and the liquid at the bottom of the
vessel is strained so that nothing of value may escape.
This cooking is a convenient method of opening the shells, but
unquestionably it injures the quality of many pearls. In some instances
when the shells open, the pearls fall out and descend to the heated iron
bottom, where they are quickly injured. The surface of one exposed too
long to the heat shows numerous minute cracks, which increase in number
and size when subjected to changes of temperature. Some choice gems have
in this manner been rendered almost valueless. If a jacket boiler, or one with
a double bottom, were used, there would be less danger of injuring the
pearls; or a similar result could be accomplished by placing a wire screen a
few inches above the bottom.
Several fishermen have endeavored to devise mechanical methods for
removing the pearls and thus avoid the painstaking search among the flesh

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tissues now necessary; but these contrivances have not proved satisfactory,
and have not been employed except experimentally.
In the Mississippi and its tributaries, where the fishery is very extensive,
after the pearls have been secured, the shells are sold to button
manufacturers and to exporters at prices ranging from $4 to $40 per ton,
according to species, quality, and market conditions. This provides a fairly
remunerative income to the fishermen even if no pearls whatever are found.
But in the small tributaries and where the mollusks are less numerous, the
shells are of little value owing to the expense of bringing them together and
conveying them to market.
Not every mollusk contains a pearl, and the village belle, intent on her
evening toilet, need not buy a bushel of clams with the pleasant anticipation
of finding a sufficient number of gems for a necklace. Small and irregular
pearls are not at all uncommon, but choice ones are decidedly scarce, and
each one represents the destruction of tens of thousands of mollusks.
Quantities of irregular and imperfect nodules known as slugs are collected,
which sell for only a few dollars per ounce. In some sections of the
Mississippi, the slugs are so very numerous that their aggregate value
exceeds that of the choice pearls.
In the Mississippi, the percentage of pearls found in a definite quantity of
mollusks is less than in the tributary streams, yet the much greater quantity
of shells collected raises the total yield to a very considerable amount.
Pearling is subordinate and incidental to gathering the shells for
manufacture. In that length of the river from St. Paul to St. Louis, a fair
average yield to the fishermen is about fourteen dollars’ worth of pearls and
slugs to each ton of shells. Of course, this is not the individual experience,
for a single Unio may contain a gem worth $5000, and on the other hand
several tons of shells may yield only a few cents’ worth of baroques. The
market for the shells places the Mississippi fishing upon an industrial basis,
and guarantees a substantial income to every fisherman even when no
pearls whatever are found.
Unios from the upper part of the Mississippi yield a much greater
percentage than those from below Davenport. In 1904, for instance, from
the 4331 tons of shells taken in Wisconsin the fishermen secured pearls
which they sold for $91,345, an average of $21 per ton; from the 822 tons
in Minnesota the average was $16 per ton; in Iowa the average was $12 for

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each of the 7846 tons; in Illinois, $5 per ton for the 2364 tons, and in
Missouri less than $1 worth of pearls was secured by the fishermen for each
ton of shells which they took in the year named. A large number of choice
pearls weighing over thirty grains each were found in the vicinity of Prairie
du Chien and McGregor. Within a river length of one hundred miles in that
region, the fishermen in 1904 gathered pearls which ultimately sold for
$300,000. It is therefore apparent that the returns vary greatly in the
different regions; nevertheless, even in the less productive localities fine
pearls are sometimes found, which contribute to make the industry a
profitable one.
Success in pearling is like that in mining. In the White River in Arkansas,
for instance, one man found $4200 worth in one month. Another discovered
a $50 pearl in the first shell he opened. A Negro found an $85 pearl the first
day he worked, while another fisherman worked seven months and secured
less than $10 worth. It is a question of finding or not finding; the finding
brings riches sometimes, and though the failures reduce the average profits
as low as in other local ventures, the big prizes affect the mind, and the
average is lost to sight. Taking the country as a whole, it is probable that the
total find has been sufficient to pay the average fisherman little if any more
than $1 for each day’s work.
The fresh-water pearls range in size from that of the smallest seed to that
of a pearl weighing several hundred grains. There is relatively only a small
quantity of seed-pearls, especially when compared with the output in the
fisheries of Ceylon and Persia. Possibly this is due largely to a scarcity of
the parasites which seem to perform so important a function in the regions
noted. A further reason may be found in the manner in which the mollusks
are opened and searched. Were the Ceylon method of opening employed
here—which, however, is not at all practicable—it seems probable that the
quantity of seed-pearls found in this country would be greatly increased.
The pearls from the tributaries of the Mississippi are noted for their great
range of coloration. From a dead white, the color is gradually enhanced to
faint shades of pink, yellow, or salmon tints, then to a more decided form of
these. From the light shades, the range extends to purple and to bright
copper red, closely resembling a drop of molten copper. Some are very light
green; others rose, steel blue, or russet brown, while purplish and very dark

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brown are not uncommon. White pearls are probably the most numerous;
but pink, bronze, and lavender are by no means rare.
A large percentage of the Mississippi River pearls are very irregular in
form, many of them resembling dogs’ teeth, birds’ wings, the heads or
bodies of different animals, etc.
As a rule the fresh-water pearls do not rank so high in value as those
from oriental seas, since ordinarily they are not so lustrous. However, some
of them have sold at very high figures. A round pearl weighing 103 grains,
found in Black River, Arkansas, in 1904, was eventually sold for $25,000;
and one of 68 grains, found, in 1907, on the Wisconsin side of the
Mississippi River, was recently marketed at $15,000.
One of the largest American pearl necklaces, brought together in 1904,
consisted of thirty-eight pearls weighing 1710 grains in the aggregate, an
average of 45 grains for each pearl. The central gem weighed 98½ grains
and those on the left of it respectively 85¾, 79⅝, 65¼, 59⅝, 49⅜, 46¼,
45⅛, 43¾, 41½, 40½, 40⅝, 35⅛, 37⅝, 30, 25⅛, 22¼, 20¼, and 19 grains.
The pearls on the right were graduated as follows: 85¼, 76⅛, 64⅞, 59½,
47¼, 46, 45⅛, 44½, 42½, 41¾, 38, 37⅞, 36, 35, 34⅝, 29½, 25¼, 21, and
20⅜, grains. This necklace was exhibited at the St. Louis World’s Fair. It
was sold to a London merchant, who in turn sold it to a Parisian dealer, and
it was finally purchased by a Spanish nobleman at a price said to be about
500,000 francs.
Another necklace shown at the St. Louis World’s Fair, was of American
fresh-water pearls from the rivers of Arkansas. The total weight of these
pearls, sixteen in number, was 861⅝ grains, an average of 61½ grains for
each pearl. Of these one drop pearl weighed 77 grains, and two others each
65½ grains. A round pearl of 70 grains completed the adornment of the
pendant. The circlet consisted of ten round pearls alternating with precious
stones. The central pearl weighed 98½ grains and on each side were two of
61 grains, then two of 56 grains, two of 54⅞, and two of 48 grains, one of
45⅜ grains being at the back of the necklace.
In the early days of pearl hunting in American streams, the fishermen had
little idea of their value, and sold choice gems for insignificant sums. In
1887, a fisherman on Rock River, Illinois, found a 40–grain pearl which he
carried in his pocket for several months. Showing it one day in Davenport,
he was offered $20 for it. He quickly accepted the offer, and on his return

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home told his friends about “the sucker who gave $20 for the shell slug.” At
present this “shell slug” is worth more than one hundred times that amount.
Numerous instances of a similar nature occurred until the average
fisherman lost all confidence in his judgment as to the values, and
extravagant ideas prevailed regarding even almost worthless nacreous
concretions. Thus, when a choice pearl is found, an exorbitant price is set
upon it and the seller feels for the market value by repeated dickerings with
several buyers. And unless one is an expert, he is quite likely to pay two or
three times as much for a pearl at the river bank as in a metropolitan
market. Some of the fishermen collect everything in the shape of nacreous
concretions, and very often pearl buyers in New York and elsewhere receive
packages which are not worth the postage; in many other packages nine
tenths of the lot is worthless; and the practical joker and the swindler have
solicited bids on bright marbles, rounded pieces of pearl shell, and even
sugar-coated pills.
While many pearls of fine luster and beautiful and regular form have
been derived from these fisheries, it occasionally happens, in the case of
pearls consigned to the city pearl dealer, that cracks, breaks or marks, which
might detract from their value, are closed or removed, either by means of
water or oil, the pearls having been kept in one or the other until a few
moments before they were shown to the merchant. Pearls worth hundreds of
dollars have sometimes shown breaks, and in one instance a pearl valued at
$7000 showed these cracks even a very short time after the sale.

Page 342

THE EVOLUTION OF
BUTTONS, MADE FROM
MISSISSIPPI SHELLS

In many of the pearling regions of the Mississippi Valley, inquiry of
almost any fisherman will result in his bringing forth from an inside pocket
a small box padded with raw cotton and containing an assortment of pearls
and slugs. Most of the slugs he will sell at prices ranging from fifty cents to
$5 per ounce, for several of the small pearls he will likely ask from $2 to
$20 each, and one or two of the largest he may value at $50 or more. At
very rare intervals, a choice pearl will be found, for which he may expect
anywhere from $200 to $5000.
While the highest prices are not received by the fishermen, there are
many who have been so fortunate as to obtain $1000 or more for a single
pearl, and several have received double that amount. Probably the highest
figure obtained by the original finder was $3800, notwithstanding
exaggerated stories of enormous five-figure prices. Recently the press
credited a lad sixteen years of age with securing $20,000 for a pearl he had
found.
A particularly striking yarn relative to a so-called “Queen Mary” pearl
went the rounds of the press some time ago. According to the newspaper
report, this pearl was found by the wife of a fisherman who was a cripple or
something equally pathetic, and, fortunately, when the family resources

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were at the lowest. With tears of joy, the fisherman embraced his wife and
told her it was her very own and she should wear it. However, by means of
a check for $17,500, he was induced to part with it, but only on condition
that it be named Queen Mary in honor of the hard-working wife. The report
continues that the original buyer sold it for $25,000, and at last accounts it
was held by a Chicago dealer who had “refused $40,000 and probably
would not accept $50,000 for it.” The facts seem to be that this pearl, which
was found near Prairie du Chien in 1901 and weighed 103 grains, was
originally sold for $250, and the local buyer sold it in Chicago for $550,
where for many months it was offered at $1000.
All sorts of stories of valuable finds are told in the pearling regions:
stories of mortgages that have been released, of homes bought, of college
educations secured from the proceeds of a single gem; but these tales are
offset by the untold stories of the undermining of fine, strong character in
awaiting the turn of fortune which never comes. The public is quickly
apprised of the valuable finds, but it does not hear of the time and labor lost
by the hundreds who are unsuccessful. Pearling excitement has many of the
features of a mining craze. While a few are benefited, hundreds are made
poorer, and in many instances reduced to absolute want. Persons have given
up their established business to devote their time to pearling, staking all on
the aleatory profits, and have squandered days and months in the hope that
one great, immense, all-rewarding find will be made. The monotony of
continued disappointment is occasionally brightened by the news that some
one—possibly a near neighbor—has made a lucky find, and then the work
is continued with renewed enthusiasm. A spirit akin to that which dominates
the gambler takes possession of the fisherman, and the days go on and the
seasons go by while the gem that is to bring the fortune still eludes him. In
many localities the pursuit yields far less profit than pleasure, and many a
man who spends a summer in pearling is in a fair way to spend the winter at
the expense of some one else.
The pearls are collected for the trade by a score or more of buyers, who
visit the fisheries at intervals and purchase of the individual fishermen by
personal dickering and bargaining. The buyers endeavor to keep informed
of all choice pearls discovered, and when an especially valuable find is
reported each one endeavors to have the first chance to secure it. The
principal local centers of the pearling industry and marketing are Prairie du
Chien, Wisconsin; McGregor, Clinton, and Muscatine, Iowa; Newport,

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Black Rock, and Bald Knob, Arkansas; Clinton, Carthage, and Smithville,
Tennessee; St. Francisville, Illinois; and Vincennes and Leavenworth,
Indiana.
However, a large number of the pearls from American rivers are
consigned by the finders to well-known gem dealers, the owners depending
for fair treatment on the integrity and high standing of these experts. An
interesting story is told of the pearl and the accompanying shell in which it
was found, which was sent to a New York dealer by a poor woman. The
price she received pleased her immensely; and in writing her appreciation,
she added that she was especially gratified at receiving so good a price
because it enabled her to send her boy to school. The dealer sent another
check as a gift, and a few days before the next Thanksgiving Day a thirty-
five-pound turkey was received by the four-score-year-old jeweler as an
evidence of the mother’s gratitude.

NECKLACE OF FRESH-
WATER PEARLS

Paris Exposition, 1900

The outbreak of pearl hunting in various parts of the country is frequently
chronicled by the newspapers. These despatches are much alike, usually
telling how some fisherman discovered a beautiful pearl which he sold to
some responsible jeweler for an amount varying from $100 to $2000. The
despatches generally state further that the effect of the find has been
remarkable; the whole region is seized with the fever, and into the rivers
and creeks swarm the hunters of both sexes, of all ages, and from all classes

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of the community. Factory-men leave their mills, farmers their crops, and
merchants their stores, and with the members of their families join in
searching for the gems. The mussels are secured by whatever means is most
convenient. If valuable finds continue, thousands and thousands of mollusks
are destroyed in the search, and when the efforts begin to prove futile the
excitement subsides almost as quickly as it began. In very many localities
the industry has run the whole gamut of the feverish excitement of its
beginning, the humor and romance of its existence, and the pathos of its
ending.
If disturbed labor conditions at the height of the excitement were the only
disagreeable attendant, these pearling furors could be viewed more
favorably. But, unfortunately, in many localities, especially in shoal waters
of restricted area, the fishery has been prosecuted so vigorously that it
appears probable the resources will be very materially impoverished if not
ruined in a few years, unless prompt and decisive protective measures are
adopted. In some waters the crowds engaged in the search have removed
practically every mussel without regard not only to protecting the immature
mussels, but even to the necessity for preserving breeding mollusks. Many
ponds and small river basins have been so denuded that not for many years,
if ever, can they recover their former wealth of pearl-bearers.
This state of affairs has not come about without opposition on the part of
those interested in the industry and the general welfare of the localities.
Intelligent and well-directed efforts have been made to provide a system of
regulations for protecting the mussels so that the maximum yield of pearls
may be secured. But this is a very difficult problem to deal with. It involves
not only the methods of fishery, but the question of sewage disposal by the
cities and the large factories, through which great quantities of mussels have
been destroyed.
Undoubtedly it will be difficult to devise regulations that will be
satisfactory alike to the fishermen, the button manufacturers and the
farmers. The great desideratum in the pearl fisheries—of the seas as well as
in the fresh-water streams—is a restriction of the gathering to such
mollusks and to such seasons and periods of years as produce the largest
results with the least injury to the permanency of the resources.
It is generally agreed that the young or immature mollusks should be
protected; but it is not easy to determine what is an immature Unio, as some

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species never grow large. Likewise, the beds should not be disturbed when
the mollusks are loaded with young, but it is difficult to select particular
months which would be better for close season than any others. The
propositions which seem to be most actively advocated impose restrictions
on the number and size of the mussels to be taken, a cessation of fishing
from January 1 to May 31, closing certain areas when partly depleted, and
prohibiting the use of especially injurious forms of apparatus. But whatever
is done should be done without delay, before the pearl hunters and the
button manufacturers kill the goose which for some years has been laying
the golden eggs.[323]

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MISCELLANEOUS PEARL FISHERIES OF AMERICA
The deep’s wealth, coral, and pearl, and sand
Like spangling gold, and purple shells engraven
With mystic legends by no mortal hand.

Shelley, The Revolt of Islam.

The beautiful pearls of the conch (Strombus gigas) are sought for in the
West Indies and on the neighboring continental coasts. They are found most
abundantly about the Bahamas, a group of more than four hundred islands
off the Florida coast, where many of the fishermen devote a considerable
portion of their time to collecting them. It is from this industry that the
beach-combers of this group of islands, as well as those of the Florida reefs,
have received the designation “Conchs.”
Near the shores, where they formerly abounded, a few conchs are yet
picked up by wading fishermen. In waters of medium depth they are
secured either by diving or by means of a long pole with a hook at the end.
In great depths, the mollusks are located by means of a waterglass similar to
the type employed in the Red Sea or among the South Sea Islands.
The animal is readily removed from the shell after crushing the tip end of
the spire where the large muscle is attached. The flesh forms an important
article of food to the fishermen and to the residents of the outlying islands.
It is said that a “Conch” can make a visit to Nassau of a week or ten days,
and subsist almost entirely on this dried meat, with which he fills his
pockets on starting. A large demand exists for the beautiful shells for
ornamenting flower-beds, garden-walks, etc. Many of them are burned into
lime for building purposes. Formerly several hundred thousand shells were
exported annually to England for use in porcelain manufacture.
The pearls are generally found embedded in the flesh of the mollusk;
quite often they are in a sac or cyst with an external opening, from which
they are sometimes dislodged by the muscular movement of the animal. The
yield is small, a thousand shells in many cases yielding only a very small
number of seed-pearls or perhaps none at all. Most of them are oval,
commonly somewhat elongated. The usual size is about one grain in
weight, but some of them weigh over twenty, and a very few exceed fifty

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grains each. These pearls are generally of a deep pink color, shading toward
whitish pink at each end. While this is the usual color, yellow, white, red,
and even brown conch pearls are occasionally obtained; these are not so
highly prized as the pink ones. Conch pearls present a peculiar wavy
appearance and a sheen somewhat like watered silk, a result of the
reflections produced by the fibrous stellated structure. While many are
beautifully lustrous, they are commonly deficient in orient, and the color is
somewhat evanescent.
Most of the Bahama conch fishermen sell their catch of pearls at Nassau.
According to the late Mr. Frederick E. Stearns, there are in Nassau four
dealers who have an arrangement with Paris and London houses, to whom
they can ship pearls in any number and draw against them with a bill of
lading. In addition to these, there are a dozen dealers in Nassau who buy
what pearls they can secure and offer them for sale.
The value of conch pearls is as variable as their form, color, and size, and
they are sold by the fishermen at prices ranging from twenty-five cents to
one dollar or more each. Those weighing from three to ten grains, and of
good color and luster, but not quite regular in form, sell for about $10 per
grain; those of exceptional perfection in color and form, and of about the
same weights, sell for from $15 to $30 per grain. In other and exceptional
cases, where the size is very large, the form perfect, and the color and luster
choice, the value is enhanced to several hundred and even several thousand
dollars each. A perfect conch pearl is among the most rare and most
valuable of gems. An unusually choice one has sold in New York City for
more than $5000. The yield fluctuates considerably, but perhaps averages
about $85,000 in value annually. One of the finest conch pearls ever found
is shown on the plate with the conch shell.
There are two important materials that have occasionally been sold and
mistaken for the conch pearl. First, the pale Italian, Japanese, or West
Indian coral, with a color very closely approaching that of the pearl. By
means of a lens it can readily be seen that the coral is in layers, and does not
possess the concentric structure of the pearl, or the peculiar interwoven
structure, with its characteristic sheen, so frequent in conch pearls.
Secondly, the pink conch shell in which the pearl itself is found; this is
frequently cut to imitate the pearl and sold as such in the West Indies and
elsewhere. This can also be detected by the fact that the layers are almost

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horizontal and the structure is not concentric or interwoven, as it is in the
conch pearl, while the luster is more like that of the shell than that of the
pearly nacre.
Streeter relates that many years ago an ingenious American turned out
some bits of conch shell into the shape of pearls and placed them in the
conch shells. A slight secretion formed over them, but it was not the true
pearly secretion, and the layer was very thin, so that the deception was
easily detected.
Not the least interesting of the American pearl fisheries is that which has
the abalones (Haliotis) for its object. These occur in many inshore tropical
and semi-tropical waters, and particularly in the marginal waters of the
Pacific. They attach themselves to the rocks by means of their large
muscular disk-shaped foot, which acts like a sucker or an exhaust-cup.
On the California coast the abalones are gathered in large quantities for
the pearls, for the shells, and especially for the flesh, which is dried and
used for food. The principal fishing grounds are at Point Lobos in Monterey
County, and along the shores of Catalina and Santa Rosa islands in Santa
Barbara County, with smaller quantities from Halfmoon Bay and from the
rocks along the shores of Mendocino County. At low tide the fishermen
wade out in shallow water, and, by means of a knife, separate the mollusk
from its resting-place. Unless this is done quickly and before the mollusk
has time to prepare itself for the attack, it closes down on the rock by means
of its sucker-like foot, from which it cannot be removed without breaking
the shell. A story is told at Santa Barbara of a Chinese fisherman having
been drowned off one of the outer islands by having his hand caught
underneath the shell of an abalone.
A few years ago, Japanese fishermen introduced the use of diving-suits in
taking these mollusks in three fathoms of water; but in March, 1907, the
California legislature interdicted this form of fishery. That legislature also
interdicted the capture of black abalones measuring “less than twelve inches
around the outer edge of the shell, or any other abalone, the shell of which
shall measure less than fifteen inches around the outer edge.”
The animal is removed from the shell by thrusting a thin blade of soft
steel between the flesh and the shell, and thus loosening the great muscle.
The flesh is salted and boiled, and then strung on long rods to dry in the
open air. When properly cured, the pieces are almost as hard and stiff as

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sole leather. Most of it is packed in sacks and exported to China, but large
quantities are sold on the Pacific coast at from five to ten cents per pound.
The catch is much less than it was forty years ago.

SHELL OF PEARL-
BEARING ABALONE

From the coast of California

Many pearly masses are obtained from the abalones, and a few of these
are of considerable beauty. Some are very large, measuring two inches in
length and half an inch or more in width; but they are rarely of good form,
and their value is commonly far less than that of choice Oriental pearls.
Owing to their irregularity in form, they are scarcely suitable for necklaces.
One of the best necklaces of these pearls ever brought together sold a few
years ago for $2000; but individual specimens have exceeded $1000 in
market value. While abalone pearls are not on the market in any great
quantities, one resident of Santa Barbara has a collection of more than a
thousand specimens, ranging in value from several hundred dollars to less
than one dollar each. Most of the objects sold in curio and jewelry stores on
the Pacific coast as abalone pearls are simply irregular knots or
protuberances cut from the surface of the shell. The California fishermen
are credited with having received $3000 for the abalone pearls in 1904; but
it is safe to say that this represents only a small fraction of their final sale
value.
In the river mussels of Canada, and especially in those from the Province
of Quebec, and the Ungava Region, pearls are occasionally found. These

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are usually white and of good luster. They are not the object of systematic
search, but in the aggregate many are secured by Indians and Eskimos, and
some by the trappers and fishermen who operate from Quebec and
Montreal. A number, weighing from one to sixty-five grains each, were
shown at the Colonial Exhibition in London in 1886, and received favorable
notice. Recently, two beautifully matched pink pearls, weighing about
fourteen grains each, were obtained from one mussel. A single pearl found
in Canada has sold for $1000, but as a general rule they are of relatively
little value. The Hudson Bay traders are represented as having secured a fair
share of these pearls.
During the last few years, many pearls have been found in the streams of
Prince Edward Island and of New Brunswick Province, and also in those of
Nova Scotia. Most of them are well formed, but their color is generally
inferior and their luster deficient. Many of them are buff or brown in color,
some are bright and fairly good, a few are rose-tinted, and others are slate-
colored and even almost black. Toronto jewelers report that many Canadian
pearls are in the possession of farmers and others in the lower provinces,
held by them for higher prices than the jewelers are willing to pay. The
Nova Scotia pearls are from a bivalve which has been identified as
Alasmodon margaritifera. They are especially abundant in Annapolis and
King counties.
Even in the streams of northern Labrador and of the Caniapuscaw
watershed, pearls are obtained by the natives, and by the hunters and
fishermen who resort to that desolate country. These closely resemble the
pearls of Scotland in color, size, and luster. A story is told of a fisherman
who by chance found in one shell two well-matched pearls, which he later
sold for $150; so pleased was he with his success that he spent a fortnight in
diligent search, but secured only half a dozen small ones, worth perhaps $3
for the lot. Most of these pearls are silvery white, but beautiful pink ones
are not rare. An unusually choice 20–grain pearl from this region sold in
1905 for $1000.
On the coast of Ecuador, pearl fisheries of minor importance have been
prosecuted from time to time. Dr. H. M. Saville, of the American Museum
of Natural History, states that in his explorations in that country he
frequently came across evidence of pearls and the information that fisheries
had existed on the coast centuries ago.

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An interesting letter from that world-wide traveler and interesting writer,
William E. Curtis, states that formerly there was a pearl fishery on the coast
of Ecuador at the little town known as Manta, in the Province of Manabi;
but it had to be abandoned on account of a particularly voracious species of
fish called el manti, which abounds in that locality and gives the place its
name. Pearls are said to be even more abundant at Manta than in Panama
Bay. It is reported that this is the place where the Incas obtained those
splendid gems which the Spaniards found in the palaces and temples of
Peru.
In the waters of Costa Rica, pearl-oysters are found, and at times the
fishery has been of considerable local importance. Owing to fear of injury
to the reefs, the use of diving machinery was interdicted there a few years
ago; but in 1906 its employment was authorized under certain restrictions.
Licenses good for six months were authorized for a maximum of thirty
machines, which may work at a minimum depth of thirty-seven feet.
On the coast of Colombia, South America, scattered reefs of pearl-oysters
occur. A lease of the pearl fisheries and those for corals and sponges was
granted July 2, 1906, but it is unknown what results have followed. This
lease lasts five years, beginning August 1, 1906.
There is almost an absolute paucity of information in regard to the
occurrence of fresh-water pearls in other parts of South America. The only
data we have obtained are from Prof. Eugene Hussak of the Mining School
of Sao Paulo, Brazil, who writes us that some pearls have been obtained
from one of the Bahia rivers. Possibly, when the resources of the interior of
that continent are better known, many pearls may be found.

Page 353

XI

PEARL-CULTURE AND PEARL-FARMING

Page 354

XI
PEARL-CULTURE AND PEARL-FARMING

Some asked how pearls did grow, and where.
Then spoke I to my girl,
To part her lips, and show them there
The quarelets of pearl.

Herrick, The Quarrie of Pearls.

T
he great profit that would accrue from an increased output of
pearls has long directed attention to the problem of bringing this
about by artificial means.
In his life of Apollonius of Tyana, Philostratus, a Greek writer of the third
century, repeats a story afloat at the time, which credited the Arabs of the
Red Sea with possessing some method of growing pearls artificially. The
story as it reached Greece was that they first poured oil upon the sea for the
purpose of calming the waves, and then dived down and caused the oysters
to open their shells. Having effected this, they pricked the flesh with a sharp
instrument and received the liquor which flowed from the wounds into
suitable molds, and this liquor there hardened into the shape, color, and
consistence of the natural gems.[324]
While the description given by Philostratus is charged with many
improbable details, and could scarcely develop belief, even in the most
credulous, as to the exact method of procedure, it seems that the story may
not have been wholly without foundation, and that attempts were made at
that remote date to stimulate the growth of pearls.
In more modern times, the possibility of aiding or starting pearly
formations in mollusks seems first to have been conceived by the Chinese
about the fourteenth century. In 1736 there appeared in that storehouse of
Oriental information, “Lettres édifiantes et curieuses écrites des missions

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étrangères,”[325] a communication from F. X. de Entrecolles, dated Pekin, 4th
November, 1734, which set forth that there were people in China who
busied themselves with growing pearls, and the product was not only vastly
superior to the imitations manufactured in Europe, but were scarcely to be
distinguished from the genuine. From Father Entrecolles’s very detailed
quotation of his unnamed Chinese authority, we condense this account. In a
basin one half full of fresh water, place the largest mussels obtainable, set
this basin in a secluded place where the dew may fall thereon, but where no
female approaches, and neither the barking of dogs nor the crowing of
chickens is to be heard. Pulverize some seed-pearls (Yo tchu), such as are
commonly used in medicine, moisten this powder with juice expressed from
leaves of a species of holly (Che ta-kong lao), and then roll the moistened
powder into perfectly round pellets the size of a pea. These are permitted to
dry under a moderate sunlight, and then are carefully inserted within the
open shells of the mollusks. Each day for one hundred days the mussels are
nourished with equal parts of powdered ginseng, china root, peki, which is a
root more glutinous than isinglass, and of pecho, another medicinal root, all
combined with honey and molded in the form of rice grains.
Although extremely detailed in some particulars, the Chinese account
omits much to be desired as to the method in which the shells were opened
to receive the pellets and the nourishment, and as to the importance of
seclusion from females and loud noises. Admitting that it is “inaccurate and
misleading,” this letter seems to indicate very clearly that the Chinese had
some method of assisting nature in growing pearls in river mussels.
The first person in Europe whose suggestion of the possibility of pearl-
culture attracted general attention was Linnæus, the Swedish naturalist
(1707–1778). In a letter to Von Haller, the Swiss anatomist, dated 13th
September, 1748, he wrote: “At length I have ascertained the manner in
which pearls originate and grow in shells; and in the course of five or six
years I am able to produce, in any mother-of-pearl shell the size of one’s
hand, a pearl as large as the seed of the common vetch.”[326] There was
much secrecy about Linnæus’s discovery, and even yet there is uncertainty
as to the details of the method.

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Shell of Dipsas plicatus, with attached metal figures of
Buddha coated with nacre

Shell of Dipsas plicatus, with attached porcelain beads
coated with nacre

The Linnean Society of London apparently possesses some of the very
pearls grown by Linnæus, as well as several manuscripts which throw much
light on this subject. It appears from the latter that, under date of 6th
February, 1761, Linnæus wrote that he “possessed the art” of impregnating

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mussels for pearl production, and offered for a suitable reward from the
state to publish the “secret” for the public use and benefit. A select
committee of the state council of Sweden was appointed to confer with him,
and on 27th July, 1761, the naturalist appeared and verbally explained his
discovery. After various meetings, the select committee approved the “art”
and recommended a compensation of 12,000 dalars (about $4800). It does
not appear that the award was paid, and the following year the secret was
purchased by Peter Bagge, a Gothenberg merchant, for the sum of 6000
dalars. On 7th September, 1762, King Adolph Frederick issued a grant to
this merchant “to practice the art without interference or competition.”[327]
Peter Bagge was unable to exercise the rights which he had acquired, nor
was he able to dispose of them to advantage. On his death the memorandum
of the secret became lost, and it was not found until about 1821, when it
was discovered by a grandson, J. P. Bagge. Under the date of 27th February,
1822, the King of Sweden confirmed to this grandson the privileges which
his ancestor had purchased in 1762. Fruitless efforts were again made to
dispose profitably of the rights either to individuals or to the Swedish
government.
The details of Linnæus’s “secret” have never been published
authoritatively. In his “History of Inventions,” Beckmann states that before
the naturalist thought of the profits that might accrue from his discovery, he
intimated the process in the sixth edition of his “Systema naturæ,” wherein
he states: “Margarita testæ excrescentia latere interiore, dum exterius latus
perforatur.”[328] “I once told him,” says Beckmann, “that I had discovered
his secret in his own writings; he seemed to be displeased, made no inquiry
as to the passage, and changed the discourse.”[329]
In the second volume of his edition of “Linnæus’s Correspondence,”[330]
Sir J. E. Smith remarks: “Specimens of pearls so produced by art in the Mya
margaritifera are in the Linnean cabinet. The shell appears to have been
pierced by flexible wires, the ends of which perhaps remain therein.”
Referring to this remark, J. P. Bagge comments: “This is the nearest I have
seen any one come to truth, but still it will be remarked by reading the
‘secret’ that more information is required to enable persons to practice the
art.”
After a thorough examination of the manuscripts and other material,
Professor Herdman concludes that the essential points of Linnæus’s process

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are to make a very small hole in the shell and insert a round pellet of
limestone fixed at the end of a fine silver wire, the hole being near the end
of the shell so as to interfere only slightly with the mollusk, and the nucleus
being kept free from the interior of the shell so that the resulting pearl may
not become adherent to it by a deposit of nacre.[331]
Shortly after Linnæus communicated with the Swedish government and
before his death, it was learned in Europe that the art of producing “culture
pearls” by a somewhat similar process had been practised by the Chinese
for centuries.[332] They used several forms of matrices or nuclei, but
principally spheres of nacre and bits of flat metal or molded lead, which
were not infrequently in conventional outline of Buddha. In the spring or
early summer, these were introduced under the mantle of the living mollusk
after the shell had been carefully opened a fraction of an inch, and the
animal was then returned to the pond, or lake. The mollusk did its work in a
leisurely way, like some people who have little to do, and many months
elapsed before it was ready for opening and the removal of the pearly
objects.
The most satisfactory description we have seen of this process appears to
be that communicated nearly a century later to the London Society of Arts
by Dr. D. T. Macgowan,[333] through H. B. M. plenipotentiary in China, from
which this account is abridged and modified.
The industry is prosecuted in two villages near the city of Titsin, in the
northern part of the province of Che-kiang, a silk-producing region. In May
or June large specimens of the fresh-water mussels, Dipsas plicatus, are
brought in baskets from Lake Tai-hu, about thirty miles distant. For
recuperation from the journey, they are immersed in fresh water for a few
days in bamboo cages, and are then ready to receive the matrices.
These nuclei are of various forms and materials, the most common being
spherical beads of nacre, pellets of mud moistened with juice of camphor
seeds, and especially thin leaden images, generally of Buddha in the usual
sitting posture. In introducing these objects, the shell is gently opened with
a spatula of bamboo or of pearl shell, and the mantle of the mollusk is
carefully separated from one surface of the shell with a metal probe. The
foreign bodies are then successively introduced at the point of a bifurcated
bamboo stick, and placed, commonly in two parallel rows, upon the inner
surface of the shell; a sufficient number having been placed on one valve,

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the operation is repeated on the other. As soon as released, the animal closes
its shell, thus keeping the matrices in place. The mussels are then deposited
one by one in canals or streams, or in ponds connected therewith, five or six
inches apart, and where the depth is from two to five feet under water.
If taken up within a few days and examined, the nuclei will be found
attached to the shell by a membranous secretion; later this appears to be
impregnated with calcareous matter, and finally layers of nacre are
deposited around each nucleus, the process being analagous to the
formation of calculary concretions in animals of higher development. A
ridge generally extends from one pearly tumor to another, connecting them
all together. Each month several tubs of night soil are thrown into the
reservoir for the nourishment of the animals. Great care is taken to keep
goat excretia from the water, as it is highly detrimental to the mussels,
preventing the secretion of good nacre or even killing them if the quantity
be sufficient. Persons inexperienced in the management lose ten or fifteen
per cent. by deaths; others lose virtually none in a whole season.
In November, the mussels are removed from the water and opened, and
the pearly masses are detached by means of a knife. If the matrix be of
nacre, this is not removed; but the earthen and the metallic matrices are cut
away, melted resin or white sealing-wax poured into the cavity, and the
orifice covered with a piece of shell. These pearly formations have some of
the luster and beauty of true pearls, and are furnished at a rate so cheap as to
be procurable by almost any one. Most of them are purchased by jewelers,
who set them in various personal ornaments, and especially in decorations
for the hair. Those formed in the image of Buddha are used largely for
amulets as well as for ornaments. They are about half an inch long, and
while in the shell have a bluish tint, which disappears with removal of the
matrix. Quantities of them are sold as talismans to pilgrims at the Buddhist
shrines about Pooto and Hang-chau.
In some shells the culture pearls are permitted to remain by the Chinese
growers, for sale as curios or souvenirs; specimens of these have found their
way into many public and private collections of Europe and America. These
shells are generally about seven inches long and four or five inches broad,
and contain a double or triple row of pearls or images, as many as twenty-
five of the former and sixteen of the latter to each valve. That the animal
should survive the introduction of so many irritating bodies, and in such a

Page 360

brief period secrete a covering of nacre over them all, is certainly a striking
physiological fact. Indeed, some naturalists have expressed strong doubts as
to its possibility, supposing the forms were made to adhere to the shell by
some composition; but the examination of living specimens in different
stages of growth, with both valves studded with them, has fully
demonstrated its truth.
It is represented that in the northern part of the Che-kiang province about
five thousand families are employed in this work in connection with rice-
growing and silk-culture. To some of them it is the chief source of income,
single families realizing as much as 300 silver dollars annually therefrom.
In the village of Chung-kwan-o, the headquarters for culture pearls in
China, a temple has been erected to the memory of the originator of this
industry, Yu Shun Yang, who lived late in the thirteenth century, and was an
ancestor of many persons now employed thereby.
The method in vogue in China for so many centuries has been the
starting-point for similar attempts in various other countries. During the
New Jersey pearling excitement in 1857, there were found several spherical
pieces of nacre which had been introduced into Unios apparently for
experimental pearl-culture; and in the collection of shells bequeathed to the
United States National Museum by the late Dr. Isaac Lea, is a hemispherical
piece of candle grease partly coated with pinkish nacre. Kelaart applied the
Chinese method to the Ceylon pearl-oysters with much success in 1858. At
the Berlin Fisheries Exhibition, in 1880, appeared the results of experiments
in growing culture pearls in the river mussels in Saxony. Small foreign
bodies had been introduced in the mantle, and others had been inserted
between the mantle and the shell. These nuclei consisted of shell beads,
unsightly pearls from other mussels, etc.; but unfortunately the shape of
these was such that the mantle could not fit closely around them,
consequently the result was so irregular as to be of no value except to show
that German Unios as well as those of China could be made to cover
foreign objects with pearly material.
Professor Herdman notes that, between 1751 and 1754, an inspector
named Frederick Hedenberg received an annual salary “to inoculate the
pearl-mussels of Lulea (in the northern part of Sweden) with ‘pearl-seeds’
which he manufactured, and then to replant the mussels. Certain pearls were

Page 361

produced by the inspector, which it is recorded were sold for some 300
silver dollars.”[334]
As noted by Broussonnet, in Finland artificial pearls were produced by
inserting a round piece of nacre between the inner face of the shell and the
mantle. The owner of the pearl fisheries at Vilshofen has succeeded in
producing pearly figures by introducing into the mollusk flat figures of
pewter, most of them representing fish in form.
In 1884, Bouchon-Brandely made experiments in pearl production at
Tahiti. Gimlet holes about half an inch in diameter were drilled through
different places in the shells of pearl-oysters, and through each of these
holes a pellet of nacre or of glass was inserted and held by brass wire
passing through a stopper of cork or burao wood, by means of which each
opening was hermetically closed, so that the pellet was the only foreign
substance protruding on the inside of the shell.[335] The oysters were
returned to the sea without further injury, and after the lapse of a month the
pellets were found covered with thin layers of nacre.

Artificial rearing-ponds for the development of pearl-oysters
on the Island of Espiritū Santo, Gulf of California

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Trays containing small pearl-oysters prepared for placing at
the bottom of artificial rearing-ponds at Espiritū Santo
Island, Gulf of California

Experiments in growing pearls in the abalone or Haliotis were made in
1897 by Louis Bouton, an account of which was given at the meeting of the
Paris Académie des Sciences in 1898.[336] The tenacity of life in this mollusk
makes it especially desirable for experiments of this nature. Through small
holes bored into the shell, pellets of mother-of-pearl were inserted and
placed within the mantle, the small holes being afterward closed up. Other
nacreous pellets were introduced directly into the bronchial cavity. The
objects were soon covered with thin, pearly layers, resulting in a few
months in spheres of much beauty, resembling somewhat the pearls
naturally produced by this mollusk. In six months, according to M. Bouton,
the layers became of sufficient thickness to be attractive. Within limitations,
the size of the pearl produced is in proportion to the length of time it is
allowed to remain within the mollusk. The results of the experiments seem
to encourage further efforts in this line, and possibly in course of time there
may be a profitable business in growing pearls in abalones on the Pacific
coast of the United States. Indeed, the experiments in transplanting and
cultivating the pearl-oyster in Australia leads one to fancy that the culture of
that species in the warm coastal waters of America is by no means an
impossibility.

Page 363

Many other experiments along similar lines have been made more
recently. An interesting feature of attempts made by Mr. Vane Simmonds of
Cedar Rapids, Iowa, in 1896–1898, is that in order to avoid straining the
adductor muscles by forcibly opening the shell while the mollusk resisted
the intrusion, each selected Unio was exposed in the open air and sunshine
until the valves opened; then a wooden wedge was carefully inserted in the
opening, and the mollusk immediately immersed in water to revive it or to
sustain life. After a few moments of immersion, the operator carefully
raised the mantle from the shell, inserted the pellet of wax or other small
article to be covered with nacre, drew the mantle to its normal position,
removed the wedge, and returned the mollusk to a selected place in the
stream at sufficient depth to avoid danger of freezing in winter.
Probably it would be more satisfactory to stupefy the mollusks by means
of some chemical in order to insert the pellets. Marine mollusks have been
successfully stupefied by slowly adding magnesium sulphate crystals to the
sea water until the animals no longer respond to contact. If treatment is not
too prolonged, they may be returned to normal sea water with good
prospects of recovery. To stupefy fresh-water mollusks, either chloral
hydrate or chlorosone may be employed, although the latter is expensive to
use in great quantity. Dr. Charles B. Davenport, of the Carnegie Institution,
suggests that it might be well to experiment with pouring ether or
chloroform over them.
In Japan the production of these pearly formations in Margaritifera
martensi, which is closely related to the Ceylon oyster, has developed into
some prominence since 1890, and the results have been well advertised.
The industry is located in Ago Bay, near the celebrated temple of Ise in the
province of Shima, and gives employment to about one hundred persons. It
is stated that the proprietor, Kokichi Mikimoto, has leased about one
thousand acres of sea bottom, on which are a million oysters of this species,
which yield from 30,000 to 50,000 culture pearls annually.
As described by Dr. K. Mitsukuri, the shoal portions of this area are used
for breeding the oysters and raising them to maturity, and in the deeper
parts—covered by several fathoms of water—the oysters are specially
treated for producing the culture pearls. In the former, the spat is collected
on small stones, weighing six or eight pounds each, placed during May or
June. The following November these stones, with the attached spat or

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young, are removed, for protection from cold, to depths greater than five or
six feet, where they remain for about three years. At the end of that period,
the growing oysters are taken from the water, the shells opened slightly, and
rounded bits of pearl shell or nacre are introduced under the mantle without
injury to the mollusks. About 300,000 are thus treated annually, and placed
in the deeper water at the rate of about one to each square foot of bottom
area. After the lapse of about four years more, the oysters are removed from
the water and opened, when a large percentage of the pellets are found
covered on the upper or exposed surface with nacre of good luster.
Most of these culture pearls are button-shaped and weigh two or three
grains each. Although somewhat attractive and superior to the culture pearls
of China and other fresh waters, they by no means compare favorably with
choice pearls. They are rarely, if ever, spherical, and only the upper surface
is lustrous; consequently they serve only the purpose of half-pearls. A cross
section shows the nacreous growth in a thin concentric layer, forming a
fragile hemispherical cap, the concave wall of which is covered with a
brownish granular secretion which prevents perfect adhesion. Compared
with choice pearls, they are not only deficient in luster, but are fragile, and
are beautiful only on the upper surface, and not available for necklaces.
Good specimens sell for several dollars each, and some individuals reach
$50 or more. Specimens exhibited at the Paris Exposition in 1900 were
awarded a silver medal; at the St. Petersburg Exhibition in 1902 they were
awarded a gold medal; at the Tokio Exhibition a grand prize, and a medal at
the St. Louis Exposition in 1904. The awards were given in the fisheries,
and not the gem divisions.
The work of Mikimoto is not the only attempt now being made in Japan
to produce pearls. A letter from Dr. T. Nishikawa, of the Tokio Imperial
University, states: “It is a great pleasure for me to tell you that I am
studying pearl formation and pearl-oyster culture in the university
laboratory, and recently I have got my pearl laboratory at Fukura, on the
Island of Awaji, where I began the pearl-culture work this summer (1907).
Fortunately, I found the cause of Japanese pearl formation, i.e., the reason
why and how the pearl is produced in the tissue of an oyster. I made
practical application of this theory with great prospects for producing the
natural and true pearls at will.”

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Among the most interesting of the pearl-culture enterprises are those of
the Compañia Criadora de Concha y Perla, under the direction of Sr. Gaston
J. Vives, in the Gulf of California. This company has an extensive station at
San Gabriel, near La Paz, where breeding oysters are placed in prepared
chests or cages for collecting the spat on trays. After remaining there for
several weeks or months, the young mollusks are removed to prepared
places (viveros) for further growth. Experiments are now made in
depositing them between a series of parallel dams alternately touching each
shore of a lagoon, thus developing a current of water over the oysters for
conveying food to them, and thus hastening their growth.
In efforts to increase the output of pearls, attention has been given to the
possibilities for extending the area and production of the reefs, and for
stocking new areas and replenishing exhausted ones, thus bringing the
pearl-bearing mollusks to maturity in greater abundance.
Although theoretically it does not seem a very difficult undertaking to
cultivate the pearl-oysters by methods somewhat similar to the cultivation
of edible oysters and clams, in no part of the world has this been
successfully done on an extensive scale. While in certain minor cases, the
areas of some species of pearl mollusks have been extended indirectly
through man’s agency—as the range of the Red Sea pearl-oyster into the
Mediterranean since the Suez Canal was opened—there is no well-known
instance in which new areas have been abundantly populated through direct
efforts.
In the chapter on the pearl fisheries of Asia are noted the hitherto
unsuccessful efforts made in Ceylon and India to preserve the young and
immature oysters on the storm-swept reefs by removing them to less
exposed areas. This has received close attention from the Ceylon authorities
during the last two years. Other practical measures which are recommended
for that region include “cultching,” or the deposit of suitable solid material,
such as shells or broken stone, to which the young oysters can attach
themselves; thinning out overcrowded reefs, and cleaning the beds by
means of a dredge, thereby removing starfish and other injurious animals.
The attempts made by individuals and associations to extend the range of
the reefs on the coast of Australia, among the Tuamotu Islands, in the Gulf
of California, and some other localities, are noted in the appropriate
chapters. But it may be stated that in most instances lack of adequate police

Page 366

protection has been not the least of the difficulties with which these
experiments have had to contend.
Nor has much greater success followed upon efforts to prevent the
exhaustion of the reefs and productive grounds through overfishing, except
in those instances in which the government exercises a proprietory interest
and determines the season, the area to be fished, and the quantity of
mollusks to be removed. The most prominent instance of this is in Ceylon,
where the fishery has been restricted to such seasons and periods as
appeared to insure the maximum yield of pearls. Without restriction upon
the fishery, the pearl-oyster in that populous region would doubtless
become almost extinct in a few years. Another instance of proprietory
interest on the part of the government is in some of the German States,
where pearl fishing has been regulated and restricted for centuries. But
there the sewage from cities and factories has accomplished almost as
effectively, if less rapidly, what unrestricted fishing would have done.
Much attention has been given to the subject of pearl-culture in Bavaria,
where the government has granted a small subsidy to encourage this
industry, and a model pearl-mussel bank has been established in one of the
brooks for the rational culture of the mussels.
On the Australian coast, the only theoretical protection of consequence is
the restriction on taking small or immature oysters; but, owing to the great
area over which the fisheries are prosecuted there, it has not been possible
to enforce the regulations. At some of the Pacific islands and elsewhere,
interdictions exist as to use of certain apparatus of capture, but this is
intended for the purpose of reserving the industry to dependent natives
rather than for protecting the reefs. Several efforts have been made to insure
adequate protection for the Unios in our American rivers, but nothing in this
direction has yet been accomplished by legislative enactment, except in
Illinois.
Reference has already been made to the parasitic stage of Unios.[337] The
attachment of the newly-hatched mollusks to the gills or fins of a fish is
entirely a matter of chance, and unless this takes place they die within a few
days. Under natural conditions the fish thus infected will rarely be found
carrying as many of the parasitic Unios as they can without serious injury.
If the fish are placed in a tank or a pond containing large numbers of newly-
hatched Unios, it is possible to bring about the attachment of hundreds of

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them for every one that would be found there by chance of nature. A fish six
inches in length may thus be made to carry several hundred parasitic Unios,
and thus a thousand fish artificially infected may do the work of several
hundred thousand in a state of nature. Experiments with small numbers of
fish under observation in the laboratory indicate that their infection on a
large scale is entirely possible, and the experiment by Messrs. Lefevre and
Curtis now in progress at La Crosse, Wisconsin, in which over 25,000
young fish have been infected, gives every indication that such work may
be begun even with the scanty knowledge now possessed.
Since it has already been shown that the production of pearls is an
abnormal condition, it does not follow that an increase in the quantity of
mollusks would necessarily result in a corresponding increase in the yield
of pearls. Indeed, it might even be that the artificial conditions bringing
about an enhanced prosperity and abundance of the mollusks would result
in a corresponding decrease in the product of gems, the improved
surroundings impairing if not destroying the conditions to which the pearls
owe their origin. This has resulted in directing efforts toward abnormally
increasing the abundance of pearls in a definite number of mollusks.
The development of the parasitic theory of pearl formation has naturally
invited attention to the possibilities of increasing the yield of pearls by
inoculating healthy mollusks with distomid parasites. It does not appear that
this has yet advanced beyond the experimental stage, and virtually all that
has been accomplished has been set forth in the chapter on the origin of
pearls. It seems that there are great possibilities in the artificial production
along these lines; and that under skilful management it could be made a
profitable industry, especially if carried on concurrently with the systematic
cultivation of mother-of-pearl shells.
Although there is scientific basis for the belief that it may be possible in
time to bring about pearl growth in this manner, the public should not be
too hasty in financing companies soliciting capital for establishing so-called
“pearl farms.” Every once in a while announcement is made in the public
press of wonderful success which has been attained by some investigator,
who surrounds his discovery with as much mystery as enveloped the Keeley
motor, and who is as anxious to sell stock as was the owner of that mythical
invention. A prospectus of one of these “pearl syndicates,” which is now
before us, claims to “increase and hasten pearl production by forcing the

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oyster, through doctoring the water in which it is immersed and also by
irritating the mollusk itself.” So far as the writers are aware, aside from the
inexpensive but somewhat attractive culture pearls, no commercial success
has yet followed the many attempts at artificial production.
This chapter should not close without reference to the so-called
“breeding pearls,” probably the most curious of all theories of pearl growth,
regarding which many inquiries have been made. Throughout the Malay
Archipelago there exists a generally accepted belief that if several selected
pearls of good size are sealed in a box with a few grains of rice for
nourishment they will increase in number as well as in size. If examined at
the expiration of one year, small pearls may be found strewn about the
bottom of the box, according to the theory; and in some instances the
original pearls themselves will be found to have increased in size. If again
inclosed for a further period of a year or more, the adherents of the theory
say, the seed-pearls will further increase in size, and additional seed-pearls
will form. Furthermore, the grains of rice will present the appearance of
having been nibbled or as though a rodent had taken a bite in the end of
each.
It is claimed that the breeding pearls are obtained from several species of
mollusks, mostly from the Margaritifera, but also from the Tridacna (giant
clam) and the Placuna (window shell). While cotton is the usual medium in
which the pearls and rice are retained, some collectors substitute fresh water
and yet others prefer salt water. It seems that rice is considered essential to
success.
The earliest account we have seen of this extraordinary belief was given
by Dr. Engelbert Kæmpfer,[338] who was connected with the Dutch embassy
to Japan from 1690 to 1696, and since that time it has been referred to by
many travelers in the Malay Archipelago.
A correspondent in the time-honored “Notes and Queries,” 20th
September, 1862, writes:
Nearly five years ago, while staying with friends in Pulo Penang (Straits of Malacca), I was shown
by the wife of a prominent merchant five small pearls, which had increased and multiplied in her
possession. She had set them aside for about 12 months in a small wooden box, packed in soft cotton
and with half a dozen grains of common rice. On opening the box at the expiration of that time, she
found four additional pearls, about the size of a small pinhead and of much beauty, which I saw and
examined not long after the lady made the discovery. While my story may be received with laughter,
I can most solemnly assure you of the truth of my having seen these pearls, and I have not the
slightest doubt of the perfect truthfulness of the lady who possessed them. I questioned an eminent

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Malay merchant of Penang on this subject, and he assured me that one of his daughters had once
possessed a similar growth of pearls.[339]
Notwithstanding the apparent absurdity of this pearl-breeding theory,
belief in it appears to be not only sincere but wide-spread, as can be attested
by any one familiar with affairs in the archipelago. A critical examination
into the matter was made in 1877 by Dr. N. B. Dennys, curator of the
Raffles Museum at Singapore, the result of which was communicated to the
Straits branch of the Royal Asiatic Society, 28th February, 1878.[340] From
his numerous quotations of persons who gave the results of their
experiences we extract two instances. One gentleman had 120 small pearls
in addition to the five breeding ones with which the experiment had started
twenty years before, and during the entire period the box had not been
molested except that it was opened occasionally for inspection by interested
persons. Another experimentor inclosed three breeding pearls with a few
grains of rice on 17th July, 1874; on opening the box on 14th July, 1875,
nine additional pearls were discovered, and the three original ones appeared
larger.
The belief has many curious variations. It is stated that in Borneo and the
adjacent islands, many of the fishermen reserve every ninth pearl regardless
of its size, and put the collection in a small bottle which is kept corked with
a dead man’s finger. According to Professor Kimmerly, nearly every burial-
place along the Borneo coast has been desecrated in searching for “corks”
for these bottles, and almost every hut has its dead-finger bottle, with from
ten to fifty “breeding pearls” and twice that number of rice grains.[341] A
correspondent at Sandakan, North Borneo, writes that at the time of his
death at Hongkong in 1901, Dr. Dennys had in his possession a small box
containing “breeding pearls”; but these disappeared after his death, and his
brother, the crown solicitor, was unable to find them. This correspondent
also states that the Ranee of Sarawak, a British protectorate in western
Borneo, has a collection of “breeding pearls” numbering about two
hundred, and that this is the only large collection known at present.
As contrasted with abundant and unquestionably sincere testimony that
pearls do “breed,” it may be stated that absolutely no result has followed
one or two native experiments made under supervision. While it must be
admitted that negative evidence is always weaker than positive, and twenty
failures would be outweighed by one successful experiment, yet the
scientific objections to the possibility of pearls “breeding” cannot be

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overcome. The phenomenon is doubtless one of those curiosities of natural
history in which some important factor has been overlooked.
Another curious theory is that peculiar pearls continue to grow after
removal from the mollusk in which they originate. Quite recently it was
reported from New Durham, North Carolina, that a pearl found there in
1896 had been growing continually since it was found and removed from
the water. Unfortunately, it was weighed only when the last observation was
made, and its increased size doubtless existed only in the imagination of its
possessor.

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XII

MYSTICAL AND MEDICINAL PROPERTIES
OF PEARLS

Page 372

XII
MYSTICAL AND MEDICINAL PROPERTIES OF PEARLS

Divers are the virtues of gems; some give favor in the sight of lords; some protect against
fire; others make people beloved; others give wisdom; some render men invisible; others repel
lightning; some baffle poisons; some protect and augment treasures, and others cause that
husbands should love their wives.
Arabic version of Solomon’s writings.

W
hile no special gems are mentioned in the tribute which the
Arabs credit to Solomon, it seems that pearls must certainly
have been included, for in nearly all countries where these
gems have been prized and from the earliest period, they
have been credited with mystic properties and healing virtues.
In the first chapter of this book, reference was made to the Atharvaveda,
dating from at least 2400 years ago, and its allusion to the use of an amulet
of pearl shell and of pearls among the Hindus in bestowing long life and
prosperity upon young Brahmanical disciples. As this amulet is fastened
upon the youth, the following hymn is recited, according to this ancient
Veda of the Atharvans:
Born of the wind, the atmosphere, the lightning, and the light, may this pearl shell, born of gold,
protect us from straits!
With the shell which was born in the sea, at the head of bright substances, we slay the Rakshas and
conquer the Atrins [devouring demons].
With the shell [we conquer] disease and poverty; with the shell, too, the Sadanvas. The shell is our
universal remedy; the pearl shall protect us from straits!
Born in the heavens, born in the sea, brought on from the river [Sindhu], this shell, born of gold, is
our life-prolonging amulet.
The amulet, born from the sea, a sun, born from Vritra [the cloud], shall on all sides protect us
from the missiles of the gods and the Asuras!
Thou art one of the golden substances, thou art born from Soma [the moon]. Thou art sightly on
the chariot, thou art brilliant on the quiver.

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(May it prolong our lives!) The bone of the gods turned into pearl; that, animated, dwells in the
waters. That do I fasten upon thee unto life, luster, strength, longevity, unto a life lasting a hundred
autumns. May the amulet of pearl protect thee![342]
The mystical Taoists, in their pursuit of immortality, made much of pearls
as an important ingredient in formulæ for perpetuating youth. According to
an old Taoist authority, in preparing one of these elixirs, an extra long pearl
which has been worn for many years is steeped in some infusion of malt, or
a preparation of serpents’ gall, honeycomb, and pumice-stone. When the
pearl becomes plastic, it is drawn out to the length of two or three feet, cut
into suitable lengths, and formed into pills, the taking of which renders food
thenceforth unnecessary.[343]
The myth of the dragon and the pearl has been a far-reaching theme of
the artists in Japan and China, whether in color, metal, or stone. There has
been much written as to how the myth became so fixed in the minds of the
Orientals, and Prince Rupprecht of Bavaria, who has made an exhaustive
study of the myth of the dragon in all its phases, has very courteously
communicated to us the following facts. Personally he had never been able
to learn of a true or clear description of the origin of the myth other than the
well-recorded legend given by Legge in the “Sacred Books of the East”
(Vol. XL, p. 211), in which there is a quotation from Shuangtze, a writer of
the fourth century before Christ, who says: “Near the Ho river there was a
poor man, who supported his family by weaving rushes. His son, when
diving in a deep pool, found a pearl worth a thousand ounces of silver. The
father said: ‘Bring a stone and beat it in pieces. A pearl of this value must
have been in a pool nine khung deep and under the chin of the black
dragon. That you were able to get it must have been owing to your having
found him asleep. Let him awake, and the consequences will not be small.’”
Prince Rupprecht says:
This legend has nothing to do with the illustration to which you refer; it belongs to a cycle of
myths concerning a stone in the head of a serpent, or the crown of the king of the serpents or
dragons; myths which also exist in Germany since the days of old. I should rather be inclined to think
that the commonly accepted pearl between the two dragons is not a pearl at all. At least this pearl is
always surrounded by ornaments in the shape of flames or claws, and Professor Hirth discovered on
such a representation in woodcut, an explanation of the flames by the sign for Yangsui, a very ancient
kind of metallic mirrors, of concave form, that were used to produce the heavenly fire.

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JAPANESE LEGEND OF
THE DRAGON AND THE
PEARL, IDEALIZED IN
JADE

Heber R. Bishop Collection,
Metropolitan Museum of Art

This explanation is probably erroneous and due to a misunderstanding of the signs for flames. In
my opinion, another explanation, that the pearl is not really a pearl but a spider, is nearer to the truth.
As an argument in favor of this theory the following sentence may be quoted from an encyclopedia
of the eleventh century (“Pieu-tzi-lei,” chap. 223): “The pearl of a fish is its eye, the pearl of a
tortoise is its foot, the pearl of the spider is its belly.” Pearl, as well as spider, are both called in
Chinese by the same word but are written in a different way.
I, for my part, believe that the pearl is the belly not indeed of a spider, but of Garuda, the eagle of
Vishnu, known in the old Hindu mythology as the foe of the Vagas, beings with human bodies and
the tails of serpents. At least, I found on an old Chinese gateway, dating back to the times of the
Mongol emperors, a sculpture showing the contest between Garuda and the Vagas. On another
sculpture of the late King epoch the Vagas are already changed into dragons, and the wings, the limbs
and the head of Garuda have become quite insignificant, while his belly is prominent like a ball.
A beautiful metaphor occurs in ancient Chinese writings, in the Book of
the Later Han,[344] for instance, which regards this gem as the hidden soul of
the oyster.
There is no end of legends and myths regarding the pearl in oriental
literature. One fable credits it with a peculiar magical power: by speaking
the right word, a spirit can be called therefrom which makes the owner a
possessor of all the happiness of the earth. Browning notes this in two
exquisite stanzas, “A Pearl, a Girl,” published on the day of his death in

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1889, in which he compares this characteristic with a woman’s love called
forth by the mystic word.
A simple ring with a single stone.
To the vulgar eye no stone of price;
Whisper the right word, that alone—
Forth starts a sprite, like fire from ice,
And lo, you are lord (says an Eastern scroll)
Of heaven and earth, lord whole and sole,
Through the power in a pearl.

A woman (’tis I this time that say)
With little the world counts worthy praise;
Utter the true word—out and away
Escapes her soul: I am wrapt in blaze,
Creation’s lord, of heaven and earth,
Lord whole and sole—by a minute’s birth—
Through the love in a girl.

In the folk-song of Servia is a pretty little poem which testifies to the
love they bear to pearls:
A youth unmated prays to God,
To turn him to pearls in the sea,
Where the maidens come to fill their urns;
That so they might gather him into their laps,
And string him on a fine green thread,
And wear him pendant from the neck;
That he might hear what each one said,
And whether his loved one spoke of him.

His prayer was granted and he lay
Turned to pearls in the dark blue sea,
Where the maidens come to fill their urns;
Then quickly they gather him into their laps,
And string him on a green silk thread,
And wear him pendant from the neck;
So he hears what each one says of her own
And what his loved one says of him.[345]

In the days when romance and chivalry held sway in Europe, pearls and
other favors were presented by ladies for the brave knights to wear at
tournaments. And we are told in the Arthurian legends how Elaine, “the lily
maid of Astolat,” gave to Sir Lancelot “a red sleeve of scarlet, embroidered
with great pearls,” for him to wear on his helmet: and “then to her tower she
climbed and took the shield, there kept it and so lived in fantasy”; while he

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fought and won at the tilt, “wearing her scarlet sleeve, tho’ carved and cut,
and half the pearls away.”[346]
The sweet sentiment of purity associated with the pearl ennobles it above
all other gems. Rabanus Maurus, archbishop of Mainz, wrote, about 850,
that “mystically, the pearl signifies the hope of the Kingdom of Heaven, or
charity and the sweetness of celestial life.”[347] True, it was not among the
twelve gems which adorned the breastplate of the high priest of the Temple,
symbolical of the twelve apostles. A Father of the Church—St. Augustine,
we believe—explains this by saying that it was reserved for a more sacred
office, that of representing Christ himself.
Pearl signifies purity, innocence, humility, and a retiring spirit. All stones
of the gray color of the pearl have the significances which are given to this
beautiful gem.[348]
Unlike other gems, the pearl comes to us perfect and beautiful, direct
from the hand of nature. Other precious stones receive careful treatment
from the lapidary, and owe much to his art. The pearl, however, owes
nothing to man. Perhaps this has much to do with the sentiments we cherish
for it. It touches us with the same sense of simplicity and sweetness as the
mountain daisy or the wild rose. It is absolutely a gift of nature, on which
man cannot improve. We turn from the brilliant, dazzling ornament of
diamonds or emeralds to a necklace of pearls with a sense of relief, and the
eye rests upon it with quiet, satisfied repose and is delighted with its modest
splendor, its soft gleam, borrowed from its home in the depths of the sea. It
seems truly to typify steady and abiding affection, which needs no
accessory or adornment to make it more attractive. And there is a purity and
sweetness about it which makes it especially suitable for the maiden.
The idea of pearly purity is inseparably linked with the name Margaret,
derived from the Persian Murwari (pearl, or child of light) through the
Greek μαργαρίτης. This name—beautiful in sound as well as in origin—is
popular in all European countries, and likewise are its abbreviations and
diminutives: in Italian, Margherita and Rita; in French, Marguerite, Margot,
and Groten; in German, Margarethe, Gretchen, and Grethel; and in English,
Margaret, Marjorie, Madge, Maggie, Peggy, etc.
The use of the word as a proper name among the early Christians was
doubtless suggested by the sweet simplicity and loveliness of the pearl, and
by the beautiful symbolical references to this gem in the Scriptures; and the

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meaning of the name has been strengthened by the pure lives and the good
deeds of the many beautiful Margarets in all lands, including the virgin
martyr, St. Margaret of Antioch, “the mild maid of God” referred to in the
Liturgy, who, before the fifth century, was the embodiment of feminine
innocence and faith overcoming evil, and who is often represented wearing
a string of pearls; also St. Margaret Ætheling of the eleventh century, who
endeared the name in Scotland, was canonized in 1215, and was adopted as
the patron saint of Scotland in 1673; and Margaret, “Pearl of Bohemia,” so
beloved by the Danes.
Especially among the Germans has the name a tender significance; with
them it is symbolical of maidenly sweetness and purity associated with
richness of womanhood, such as was typified by Goethe in the heroine of
his “Faust.” This idea may have impelled Wordsworth in the selection of a
name for the lovely, girlish character in his “Excursion”; and Tennyson for
his “Sweet pale Margaret,” and likewise Scott for “Ladye Margaret, the
flower of Teviot.” With the memory of these lives and characters before her,
many a loving mother has crystallized the hope entertained for a baby
daughter by enriching her with this beautiful name.
Poets seem never to tire of using the pearl as a symbol of perfection in
form, in purity, in luster, and in sweetness. But probably none has made a
more lovely comparison than Owen Meredith:
As pure as a pearl,
And as perfect: a noble and innocent girl.[349]

The Oriental poets unite with those of the West in their love for this gem,
and those gifted writers are lavish in its use. Let us but add the lament of
Shabl Abdullah on the death of Nozami:
Nozami’s gone, our fairest pearl is lost.
From purest dew, kind Heaven had given her birth,
And then had fashioned her the pearl supreme.
She softly shone, but hidden from mankind,
So God has now restored her to her shell.

Far more crude, but possibly equally pathetic, is that old epitaph from
Yorkshire, England:
In shells and gold pearls are not kept alone,
A Margaret here lies beneath a stone.

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In the seventeenth century, Pierre de Rosnel wrote in a burst of
enthusiasm:
The pearl is a jewel so perfect that its excellent beauty demands the love and esteem of the whole
universe. Suidas expresses himself in regard to it thus: “The possession of the pearl is one of love’s
greatest delights; the delight of possessing it suffices to feed love.” In a painting, Philostratus, who
had the same ideas, has represented cupids with bows enriched with pearls; and the ancients were all
agreed to dedicate the pearl to Venus. Now, to my thinking, the reason for their so doing was, that
inasmuch as this goddess of love, the fairest of all divinities, is descended from heaven and is formed
of the sea, so in like manner the pearl—the loveliest of all gems—is formed in the sea and is the
offspring of the dew of heaven. But he that would learn more of the excellence of the pearl, let him
inquire of the ladies, who will relate much more in its praise than I can write, and who will doubtless
confess that nothing else so well adorns them.[350]
Emblematic as the pearl is of maidenly purity and sweetness, it is deemed
especially appropriate as a wedding gift. This use dates from the earliest
dawn of Hindu civilization, when the beloved Krishna drew it from the sea
to decorate his beautiful daughter on her nuptial day. And among the
Hindus not uncommonly the presentation of a virgin pearl and its piercing
forms part of the marriage ceremony. In most of the European royal
weddings in recent years, pearls have been prominent among the bridal
gifts; nor have they been overlooked among the presents to American
brides, including one much in the public print about 1906, for whom a
necklace of them was selected by a neighboring republic as an appropriate
present.
The dedication of the pearl to love and marriage appears to have been
recognized by the artistic Greeks. One of the choicest engravings preserved
from classic times is a magnificent sardonyx showing the marriage of Cupid
and Psyche, in which the lovers are united by what some authorities
consider a string of pearls—emblematic of conjugal bonds—by means of
which the god Hymen leads them to the nuptial couch.[351] This engraved
gem now forms one of the choicest objects in the Boston Museum of Fine
Arts, having been purchased at the sale of the Marlborough gems, London,
1898, at a cost of about $10,000.
And yet in Western countries the ill omen of pearls as bridal ornaments
has been widely recognized, these determining the tears that will be shed in
the married life. As Milton says, referring to the Marchioness of
Winchester:
And those pearls of dew she wears,
Prove to be presaging tears.

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It was told that when the Empress Eugénie of France was finishing her
toilet preparatory to her wedding in Notre Dame in 1853, a personal
attendant reminded her of the omen, and begged that she refrain from
wearing her pearl necklace on that occasion. Eugenie paid no heed to the
warning and wore the beautiful jewels just the same; and, as all the world
knows, her life has been one long tragedy. Since that necklace was a
lengthy one, containing very many pearls, the bride who wears only a few
on her wedding day need not dread the adage so much, for, unfortunately,
no woman’s life is wholly free from grief; and most brides would doubtless
risk a few tears rather than refuse to wear a wedding gift of pearls.
It was a very old idea that to dream of pearls betokens tears. A suggestion
of this occurs in John Webster’s “Duchess of Malfi” (1623), Act III, sc. 5:
Duchess: I had a very strange dream to-night;
Methought I wore my coronet of state,
And on a sudaine all the diamonds
Were chang’d to pearles.

Antonio: My interpretation
Is, you’ll weepe shortly;
For to me the pearles
Doe signifie your teares.

And we quote also from “The Parson’s Wedding” (1663), Act II, sc. 5,
where Jolly exclaims: “What! in thy dumps, brother? The captain sad! ’Tis
prophetic. I’d as lieve have dreamt of pearl, or the loss of my teeth.”
Tradition relates that Queen Margaret Tudor, wife of James IV of
Scotland, just before the battle of Flodden Field (1513), had many fears as
to the disastrous issue of that conflict, owing to having dreamed on three
nights in succession that all her jewels were suddenly turned into pearls.
This was interpreted as a sign of coming widowhood and sorrow, which
was soon verified; and a similar story is told of Marie de’ Medici shortly
before the murder of Henry IV of France in 1610.
The employment of pearls medicinally dates from an ancient period. This
use is mentioned in the oldest existing Sanskrit medical work, the
“Charaka-Samhita,”[352] composed early in the Christian era; and likewise in
the somewhat more modern “Susruta,”[353] which probably originated before
the eighth century.

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It is particularly in Oriental countries that therapeutic properties have
been credited to pearls. The powder of these gems has been rated very
highly there, and is still used to some extent. It was considered beneficial in
cases of ague, indigestion, and hemorrhages, and was regarded as
possessing stimulative qualities. Medical literature of the Orient contains
many accounts of the uses of pearls and of the methods of forming them
into pills, ointments, etc.
According to a treatise written by Narahari, a physician of Kashmir,
about 1240 A.D., the pearl cures diseases of the eyes, is an antidote to
poisons, cures consumption and morbid disturbances, and increases strength
and general health.[354]
In China, as well as in other Asiatic countries, a distinction was made in
the therapeutic effects of so-called “virgin” pearls and of those pierced or
bored for stringing. The Chinese natural history of Li Shi Chin, completed
about 1596, states that bored pearls will not serve for medicine, for which
unpierced ones should be used. It further adds that the taste is saltish,
sweetish, and cold; and that they benefit the liver, clear the eyes, and cure
deafness. Dr. T. Nishikawa informs us that at the present time many Mytilus
seed-pearls are exported from Japan to China for medicinal purposes.
Quoting principally from Ahmed Teifashi, Whitelow Ainslie wrote in
1825 that Arabian physicians suppose the powder of the pearl to have
virtues in weak eyes; and they credit it with efficacy in palpitations, nervous
tremors, melancholia, and hemorrhage. Also they have this strange notion,
that when applied externally and while in the shell, it cures leprosy.[355]
Statements of the curative properties of pearls come also from Japan at a
somewhat recent date. The catalogue of the National Exhibition at Yedo in
1877, Part V, page 78, notes that they soothe the heart, lessen phlegm, are
an antidote to poison, and cure fever, smallpox, and blear-eyedness.
The popular modern idea in India as to the therapeutic value was thus
expressed by a native prince, Sourindro Mohun Tagore, Mus. Doc., the
Maharajah of Tagore, in 1881:
The use of pearls conduces to contentment of mind and to strength of body and soul. The burnt
powder of this gem, if taken with water as sherbet, cures vomiting of blood of all kinds. It prevents
evil spirits working mischief in the minds of men, takes off bad smell from the mouth, cures lunacy
of all descriptions and all mental diseases, jaundice and all diseases of the heart, intestines and
stomach. Burnt pearl mixed with water and taken into the nostrils, as a powder, takes away
headsickness, cures cataract, lachryma and swelling of the eyes, the painful sensation such as is
caused by the entry of sand into them, and ulcers. Used as a dentifrice, it strengthens the gums and

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cleanses the teeth. Rubbed on the body with other medicines, it cures all skin diseases. It stops
bleeding from cuts and ultimately heals them up. Whether taken internally or externally, it is a sure
antidote to poison. It drives away all imaginary fears and removes all bodily pain. To prevent its
tendency to affect the brain, it should always be used with the burnt powder of basud, and in its
absence with that of white mother-of-pearl. The dose of pearl-powder should not exceed 2¼ mashas
[19.68 grs.].[356]
The Hindus credited specific virtues to pearls of different colors: the
yellow brought wealth, the honey shade fostered understanding, the white
attracted fame, and the blue, good luck. Defective pearls caused leprosy,
loss of fortune, disgrace, insanity, and death, according to the degree of
defect. The “Mani-málá,” previously quoted, states that “pearls possessed of
every valuable quality shield their master from every evil, and suffer
nothing harmful to come near him. The house which contains a perfect
pearl the ever-restless Lakshmi (goddess of wealth) chooses to make her
dwelling for ever and a day.”[357]
A similar idea is expressed in an old Hindu treatise on gems by
Buddhabhatta, where we read: “The pearl from the shell ought always to be
worn as an amulet by those who desire prosperity.”[358]
Pearls still find a place in the pharmacopœia of India. One of the latest
standard works, that of R. N. Khory and N. N. Katrak,[359] credits the
powder as a stimulant, tonic, and aphrodisiac. It is one of the ingredients in
numerous Indian prescriptions used in curing impotence, heart-disease,
consumption, etc. According to these authorities, the dose is from one
fourth to one half grain of the powdered pearl.
Owing to the high cost of sea pearls, even those of the smallest size, a
substitute for medicinal and similar purposes is found in the Placuna pearls
of Ceylon, Borneo, etc. These are of such slight luster that only the choicest
are of ornamental value, consequently they are sold at relatively small
prices. A considerable demand exists for them to be placed in the mouths of
deceased Hindus of the middle class, instead of the sea pearls which are
used by the wealthy, or the rice which is employed in a similar manner by
persons of poorer rank. This custom seems to be analogous to that of the
ancient Britons, and also to that of the American Indians, in depositing food
and other requisites for a journey in burial graves. The practice is an old one
in India and was noted by Marco Polo more than six hundred years ago.
Most of the Placuna pearls are calcined and are used with areca-nuts and
betel-pepper leaves in a very popular masticatory, one of the “seven sisters
of sleep,” which is to the Hindu what opium is to the Chinaman, or tobacco

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to the American or European. The hard white areca-nut (Areca Catechu) is
about the size and shape of a hen’s egg. Three or four thousand tons of the
small, tender nuts are annually shipped from Ceylon to India for this
masticatory, which is chewed by a hundred million persons. After boiling in
water, pellets of them are placed in a leaf of the betel-pepper (Piper betle)
with a small quantity of lime made from pearls or shells, according to the
desired quality and value of product. It is credited with hardening the gums,
sweetening the breath, aiding digestion, and stimulating the nervous system
like coffee or tobacco; its most visible effect is tingeing the saliva and
blackening the teeth, which is far from attractive, especially in an otherwise
beautiful woman. A more recent use for these Placuna pearls is as an
ingredient in a proprietary face powder and enamel, which is marketed in
Europe.
It is not alone the Orientals that have found medicinal virtues in pearls.
Even in Europe they have occupied a prominent place in materia medica,
especially during the Middle Ages when a knowledge of the occult
properties of gems was an important branch of learning. Indeed, they could
scarcely have been overlooked by people who at one time or another
swallowed pretty much everything, from dried snake’s eyes to the filings of
a murderer’s irons, in their quest for the unusual and costly with which to
relieve and comfort themselves. During the Middle Ages in Europe, writers
who gave attention to pearls, as well as to other gems, treated almost
exclusively of their reputed efficacy in magic and in medicine; and most of
the accounts from the ninth to the fourteenth century seem wholly without
scientific value, and at times reach the climax of extravagance and
absurdity in their claims for the wonderful potency of the gem.
Albertus Magnus, the Dominican scholar born in Germany in the twelfth
century, wrote that pearls were used in mental diseases, in affections of the
heart, in hemorrhages, and dysentery.[360]
The “Lapidario” of Alfonso X of Castile (1221–1284), called “The
Wise,” the father of the Spanish language, states:
The pearl is most excellent in the medicinal art, for it is of great help in palpitation of the heart,
and for those who are sad or timid, and in every sickness which is caused by melancholia, because it
purifies the blood, clears it and removes all its impurities. Therefore, the physicians put them in their
medicine and lectuaries, with which they cure these infirmities, and give them to be swallowed. They
also make powders of them, which are applied to the eyes; because they clear the sight wonderfully,
strengthen the nerves and dry up the moisture which enters the eyes.[361]

Page 383

Anselmus de Boot, physician to Emperor Rudolph II, and one of the
great authorities at the beginning of the seventeenth century, gave the
following directions for making “aqua perlata, which is most excellent for
restoring the strength and almost for resuscitating the dead. Dissolve the
pearls in strong vinegar, or better in lemon juice, or in spirits of vitriol or
sulphur, until they become liquified; fresh juice is then added and the first
decanted. Then, to the milky and turbid solution, add enough sugar to
sweeten it. If there be four ounces of this solution, add an ounce each of
rose-water, of tincture of strawberries, of borage flowers and of balm and
two ounces of cinnamon water. When you wish to give the medicine, shake
the mixture so that the sediment may be swallowed at the same time. From
one ounce to an ounce and a half may be taken, and nothing more excellent
can be had. In pernicious and pestilential fevers, the ordinary aqua perlata
cannot be compared to this. Care must be taken to cover the glass carefully
while the pearls are dissolving, lest the essence should escape.”[362]
A curious book on the medicinal use of pearls was written in 1637 by
Malachias Geiger,[363] in which he especially praises the efficacy of
Bavarian pearls. It was true that their material value was less than that of
oriental pearls, but this was compensated by their therapeutic qualities. He
had accomplished many cures of a very serious disease and had used these
pearls successfully in cases of epilepsy, insanity, and melancholia.
Quotations might be given from a hundred medieval writers as to the
therapeutics of pearls. The diseases for which they were recommended, as
noted by Robert Lovell’s “Panmineralogicon, or Summe of all Authors,”
published at Oxford in 1661, seems to have included a large portion of the
entire list known at that period. This summary states:
Pearls strengthen and confirme the heart; they cherish the spirits and principall parts of the body;
being put into collyries, they cleanse weafts of the eyes, and dry up the water thereof, help their filth,
and strengthen the nerves by which moisture floweth into them; they are very good against
melancholick griefes; they helpe those that are subject to cardiack passions; they defend against
pestilent diseases, and are mixed with cordiall remedies; they are good against the lienterie, that is,
the flux of the belly, proceeding from the sliperiness of the intestines, insomuch that they cannot
retaine the meat, but let it passe undigested; they are good against swounings; they help the trembling
of the heart and giddinesse of the head; they are mixed with the Manus Christi against fainting
(called Manus Christi perlata in the London Pharmacopaea); they are put into antidotes or
corroborating powders; they help the flux of bloud; they stop the terms, and cleanse the teeth; they
are put into antidotes for the bowels, and increase their vertue, make the bloud more thin, and clarify
that which is more thick and feculent; they help feavers. The oile of Pearles or unions helpeth the
resolution of the nerves, convulsion, decay of old age, phrensie, keepeth the body sound, and
recovereth it when out of order, it rectifieth womens milk, and increaseth it, corrects the vices of the

Page 384

natural parts and seed. It cureth absesses, eating ulcers, the cancer and hemorrhoides.... The best are
an excellent cordial, by which the oppressed balsame of life and decayed strength are recreated and
strengthened, therefore they resist poyson, the plague, and putrefaction, and exhilarate, and therefore
they are used as the last remedie in sick persons.[364]

RUSSIAN EIKON OF THE
MADONNA

Ornamented with pearls

So powerful and mysterious were their alleged virtues, that in some
instances it was necessary only that the pearls be worn to make effective
their prophylaxis against disease. This belief was by no means confined to
the ignorant and inexperienced, for we are told that even Pope Adrian was
never without his amulet made of the extraordinary combination of oriental
pearls, a dried toad, etc.[365] Leonardo, in the fifteenth century, wrote that
pearls render true and virtuous all who wear them.[366] Although we wonder
at what we call the superstitions of the Middle Ages, perchance future
generations will smile at many of our mistaken follies.
A prominent historical instance of administering pearls medicinally was
in the treatment of Charles VI of France (1368–1422), to whom pearl
powder mixed with distilled water was given for the cure of insanity.
A far more illustrious patient was Lorenzo de’ Medici, “The
Magnificent” (1448–1492), the celebrated ruler of Florence. When this
plebeian prince lay dying of a fever at Careggi, just after that famous
interview with Savonarola, his friends called in Lazaro da Ticino, a

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physician of reputation, who administered pulverized pearls. Politian, who
was present, is credited with the statement that when the medicine was
administered, to the inquiry as to how it tasted, Lorenzo replied: “As
pleasant as anything can be to a dying man.”[367]
Even the English philosopher, Francis Bacon (1561–1626), mentioned
pearls among medicines for the prolongation of life. He adds: “Pearls are
taken, either in a fine powder or in a kind of paste or solution made by the
juice of very sour and fresh lemons. Sometimes they are given in aromatic
confections, sometimes in a fluid form. Pearls no doubt have some affinity
with the shells wherein they grow; perhaps may have nearly the same
qualities as the shells of crawfish.”[368]
Powdered pearl or mother-of-pearl mixed with lemon juice was used as a
wash for the face, and was considered “the best in the world.”[369] The pearl
powder and lemon juice were permitted to stand for a day or two and the
combination was then filtered before using. Another method of preparing
this was:
Dissolve two or three ounces of fine seed-pearl in distilled vinegar, and when it is perfectly
dissolved, pour the vinegar into a clean basin; then drop some oil of tartar upon it, and it will cast
down the pearl into fine powder; then pour the vinegar clean off softly; put to the pearl clear conduit
or spring water; pour that off, and do so often until the taste of the vinegar and tartar be clean gone;
then dry the powder of pearl upon warm embers, and keep it for your use.[370]
Through their composition of carbonate of lime, pearls possibly possess
some slight therapeutic value, which, however, can easily be supplied by
other materials—as the shell, for instance—and is entirely out of proportion
to their market value as ornaments.
Although pearls have lost their therapeutic prestige and no longer have a
recognized place in materia medica, their healing qualities are not to be
denied, for there are few ills to which women are subject that cannot be
bettered or at least endured with greater patience when the sufferer receives
a gift of pearls; the truth of which any doubting Thomas may easily verify
in his own household to the limit of his purse-strings.
Owing to their beauty and great value, pearls have been deemed
particularly appropriate as a sacrifice in enriching a drink for a toast or
tribute. Shakspere alludes to this in the words of King Claudius, the pearl
being frequently designated union in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries:

Page 386

The king shall drink to Hamlet’s better breath;
And in the cup an union shall he throw,
Richer than that which four successive kings
In Denmark’s crown have worn.[371]

It is stated that a pearl worth £15,000 was reduced to powder and drunk
by Sir Thomas Gresham, the English merchant, in the presence of the
Spanish ambassador, as a tribute to Queen Elizabeth, by whom he had been
knighted.[372]
The most celebrated instance of enriching a drink with a pearl was
doubtless Cleopatra’s tribute to Antony, Pliny’s account of which we give in
the words of old Philemon Holland:
This princesse, when M. Antonius had strained himselfe to doe her all the pleasure he possibly
could, and had feasted her day by day most sumptuously, and spared for no cost: in the hight of her
pride and wanton braverie (as being a noble courtezan, and a queene withall) began to debase the
expense and provision of Antonie, and made no reckoning of all his costly fare. When he thereat
demanded againe how it was possible to goe beyond this magnificence of his, she answered againe,
that she would spend upon him at one supper ten million Sestertij. Antonie laid a great wager with
her about it, and shee bound it againe, and made it good. The morrow after, Cleopatra made Antonie
a supper which was sumptuous and roiall ynough: howbeit, there was no extraordinarie service seene
upon the board: whereat Antonius laughed her to scorne, and by way of mockerie required to see a
bill with the account of the particulars. She again said, that whatsoever had been served up alreadie
was but the overplus above the rate and proportion in question, affirming still that she would yet in
that supper make up the full summe that she was seazed at: yea, herselfe alone would eat above that
reckoning, and her owne supper should cost 60 million Sestertij: and with that commanded the
second service to be brought in. The servitors set before her one only crewet of sharpe vineger, the
strength whereof is able to resolve pearles. Now she had at her eares hanging these two most precious
pearles, the singular and only jewels of the world, and even Natures wonder. As Antonie looked
wistly upon her, shee tooke one of them from her eare, steeped it in the vineger, and so soon as it was
liquified, dranke it off. And as she was about to doe the like by the other, L. Plancius the judge of that
wager, laid fast hold upon it with his hand, and pronounced withal, that Antonie had lost the wager.
[373]

Elsewhere has been set forth the impracticability of dissolving a pearl in
a glass of vinegar without first pulverizing it.[374] It seems probable that if
Pliny’s interesting story has any foundation, Cleopatra might have
swallowed a solid pearl in a glass of wine—certainly a more pleasing
draught as well as a more graphic sacrifice; and we should accept its
reported value with a grain of salt, for it would scarcely have been safe for
the court gossip to belittle the value of this tribute of love.
Pliny, and other Roman writers, mention another instance, that of Clodius
“the sonne of Aesope the Tragedian Poet,” who took two pearls of great
price “in a braverie, and to know what tast pearles had, mortified them in
venegre, and drunke them up. And finding them to content his palat

Page 387

wondrous well, because he would not have all the pleasure by himselfe, and
know the goodnesse thereof alone, he gave to every guest at his table one
pearle apeece to drinke in like manner.”[375] The chronicler fails to tell what
the guests thought of the flavor of pearls, or whether some would not have
preferred them for a more appropriate use.

Page 388

XIII

VALUES AND COMMERCE OF PEARLS

Page 389

XIII
VALUES AND COMMERCE OF PEARLS

A pearl,
Whose price hath launch’d above a thousand ships,
And turn’d crown’d kings to merchants.

Troilus and Cressida, Act II, sc. 2.

T
o trace the markets of the pearl is to trace the routes of commerce
from early times. The first routes from the Far East seem to have
been two: one by the Persian Gulf and the Euphrates to Babylonia
and Assyria, and thence by caravan through Damascus to Tyre and
Sidon; the other by the Red Sea and Suez to Egypt. As regards the former
route, Sir George Birdwood furnishes positive evidence that the Phenicians
visited India as early as 2200 B.C. It seems highly probable that pearls were
introduced by this route at an early period, although it is difficult to find
material proof of the fact.
By means of this commerce, the great ancient civilizations of Phenicia,
Mesapotamia and the Nile valley doubtless became familiar with the gem
treasures of eastern Asia. Then came the opening of the Mediterranean with
first “the great Sidon,” and later Tyre, as the starting-points of commerce,
exploration, and colonial settlement among the islands and on the shores of
what, to the Asiatic peoples, was the great western sea. However, as the
Greek islands and their colonies developed, the Phenicians were more
strictly confined to the coasts of Africa and Spain. Gades, Tartessus, and
Carthage were their great colonies and trading-ports, and their adventurous
sailors passed on through the Straits of Gibraltar and directed their course
northward to the British Isles, where they very probably obtained the pearls
of the Scotch rivers.

Page 390

Meanwhile, the campaigns of Alexander had carried Greek influence and
authority over all western Asia, reaching even to India itself, and had led to
a widely increased intercourse. Although he died at the age of thirty-two,
Alexander the Great did more than any single individual in the world’s
history to bring the nations of the Eastern and the Western worlds into
contact with each other, and it is certainly due to this circumstance that we
find much greater evidences of the use of pearls in the western countries
after his time. Besides this, the founding of Alexandria provided a mart, in
whose bazaars the traders of India, Persia, and Arabia bartered their
treasured gems, just as their descendants do in the same place at the present
day.
It was not, however, until the establishment of the Roman empire that
this commercial intercourse reached its highest development. The Romans,
with their marvelous capacity for organization, were the first to build a
great system of permanent and well-kept roads to facilitate land travel and
land traffic. These great roads, starting from the Forum, reached out in
every direction, even to the limits of the empire; and, as a result of
increased commercial activity, more gems were engraved, mounted, and set
during the five hundred years of Rome’s commercial supremacy than
during any other early epoch of the world’s history.
In Rome, the trade in pearls was so important that there was a
corporation of “margaritarii.” The officinæ margaritariorum were installed
in the Forum, in the neighborhood of the tabernae argentariæ; some were
also on the Via Sacra.[376] However, the name margaritarius did not only
apply to the jewelers, merchants, and setters of pearls, but also to those who
fished for them and to the guardians of the gems and jewels wherein pearls
were used.
With the fall of the Western empire, the Dark Ages settled down like a
cloud over Europe for five hundred years. Only among the Saracens and at
Byzantium did the culture of the old civilization survive, and eventually the
light of knowledge and of progress was rekindled from these sources. The
Crusades were the chief factors in this new development; they gave a
mighty stimulus, by means of which Europe was aroused from her lethargy
and once more brought into contact with the Orient. Venice and Genoa now
became the great carriers, and from this time, and to this source, may be
traced many of the oriental gems in Europe. The Venetian fleet of three

Page 391

hundred merchant ships brought the products of the East and distributed
them over Europe, by way of the German cities of Augsburg and
Nuremberg, where the great jewelers and silversmiths made world-famed
ornaments.

PECTORAL CROSS OF
CONSTANTINE IX.
MONOMACHUS (1000–
1054 A.D.)

Containing some wood
attributed to the true cross.

When Constantinople fell into the hands of the Turks, the treasures of the
Eastern empire were scattered throughout Europe; but, at the same time, the
establishment of the Turkish empire served to close the way to India and the
far East for the merchants and travelers of Europe, and, hence, new means
of access had to be sought by sea. This, as is well known, was the cause of
the voyages of De Gama and Columbus. The unexpected result of these
voyages—the discovery of a new continent—ushered in the wonderful
period of Spanish and Portuguese development and their colonization of
both the East and the West Indies; and to this epoch belongs the
introduction of American pearls to the markets of Europe. The gradual
decline of the power of Spain and Portugal—largely owing to bigotry and to
the reckless exploitation of the regions under their control—brings us to the
beginning of the present phase of commercial intercourse in which all the

Page 392

nations of the civilized world are engaged in varying proportion, according
to their power and aptitude. Never before have the different regions of the
earth been more closely in touch with each other, and we may safely say
that nothing is likely to occur which can permanently interrupt the
progressive development of the world’s commerce.
With the various means of transportation and locomotion that have
existed in the past twenty-three or twenty-four centuries, there is no doubt
that the commerce of pearls has varied more or less, but there has ever
been, in some part of the world, a great potentate, a great collector or dealer
who has influenced the finest gems to gravitate his way. Never has there
been a time when some person was not prepared to encourage—and to
richly encourage—the sale of fine jewels to him. The history of the
commerce of precious stones is a history of travel and exploration, of
hardship, pleasure, reward, and sometimes of serious disappointment.
The lesson we derive from these decorative objects of natural beauty and
softness—treasured alike by savage, barbarian, ancient warrior, statesman,
king, emperor, peasant, bourgeois, magyar, lady, and queen—always carries
with it the moral that the gifts of creation are ever prized by some one in
every age or place.
The necessary qualifications affecting the value of a pearl are: first, that it
should be perfectly round, pear-shaped, drop-shaped, egg-shaped, or button-
shaped, and as even in form as though it were turned on a lathe. It must
have a perfectly clear skin, and a decided color or tint, whether white, pink,
creamy, gray, brown or black. If white, it must not have a cloud or a blur or
haze, nor should the skin have the slightest appearance of being opaque or
dead. It must be absolutely free from all cracks, scratches, spots, flaws,
indentations, shadowy reflections or blemishes of any kind. It must possess
the peculiar luster or orient characteristic of the gem. The skin must be
unbroken, and not show any evidence of having been polished.
Diamonds and the more valuable precious stones generally are bought
and sold by the weight called a carat. This carat, whatever its precise value,
is always considered as divisible into four diamond or pearl grains, but the
subdivisions of the carat are usually expressed by the vulgar fractions, one
fourth, one eighth, one twelfth, one sixteenth, one twenty-fourth, one thirty-
second, and one sixty-fourth. The origin of the carat is to be sought in
certain small, hard, leguminous seeds, which, when dried, remain constant

Page 393

in weight. The brilliant, glossy, scarlet-and-black seed of Abrus precatorius
constitutes the Indian rati, about three grains; the Adenanthera pavonina
seed weighs about four grains. The seed of the locust-tree, Ceratonia
siliqua, weighs on the average three and one sixth grains, and constitutes,
no doubt, the true origin of the carat.
Another[377] of the more notable of these weight-units used for precious
stones and precious metals is the candarin, condorine, or cantarai, also
termed by the Chinese fun or fan, and by the south Indians a fanam, and
used all over the Indo-Chinese archipelago. This is by origin a large lentil or
pea of a pinkish color dotted with black, about double the size of the gonj,
and possessing the same quality of very slight variability of weight when
dried. It is probably a variety of the same botanic genus or species as the
Abrus precatorius. The value when reduced to absolute standard became a
subsidiary part or submultiple of the weight of some local coin, rupee, or
pagoda, or a decimal fraction of some local tchen, as in China and Japan.
The following derivation of the word carat is given by Grimm: “Carat.
Italian: carato; French: carat; Spanish and Portuguese: quilate; Old
Portuguese: quirate, from Arabic qirat, and this from the Greek,
κεράτιον.”[378]
The carat is not absolutely of the same value in all countries. Its weight,
as used for weighing the diamond, pearl, and other gemstones in different
parts of the world, is given in decimals of a gram, by the majority of the
authorities, as follows:

Grams In Grains Troy
Indian (Madras) .2073533 3.199948
Austrian (Vienna) .20613+ 3.18107+
German (Frankfort) .20577+ 3.175514
Brazil and Portugal .20575+ 3.175206
France .2055+ 3.171347
England .205409 3.169943
Spain .205393 3.169696
Holland .205044 3.16431+

Page 394

Pearl Grains in Grams In Grains Troy
Indian (Madras) .0518383 .799987
Austrian (Vienna) .05153+ .79526+
German (Frankfort) .05144+ .793878
Brazil and Portugal .05143+ .793801
France .051375 .792836
England .051352 .792485
Spain .051348 .792424
Holland .051261 .791077

Assuming that the gram corresponds to 15.43235 English grains, an
English diamond carat will nearly equal 3.17 grains. It is, however, spoken
of as being equal to four grains, the grains meant being “diamond” or
“pearl” grains, and not ordinary troy or avoirdupois grains. Thus a diamond
or pearl grain is but .7925 of a true grain. In an English troy ounce of 480
grains there are 151½ carats; and so it will be seen that a carat is not indeed
quite 3.17 grains, but something like 3.1683168 grains, or less exactly,
3.168 grains. Further, if we accept the equivalent in grains of one gram to
be, as stated above, 15.43235, and if there be 151½ carats in a troy ounce of
480 grains, it will follow that an English diamond carat is .205304 of a
gram, not .205409, as commonly affirmed. The following exact equivalents,
in metric grams and grains troy, of the diamond carat as used in different
parts of the world in 1882, are given by Mr. Lowis d’A. Jackson:

Page 395

DIAMOND CARATS

Grams Grains Troy
Turin .2135 3.29480
Persia .2095 3.23307
Venice .2071 3.19603
Austro-Hungary .2061 3.18060
France (old) .2059 3.17752
France (later) .2055 3.17135
France (modern) .2050 3.16363
Portugal .2058 3.17597
Frankfort and Hamburg .2058 3.17597
Germany .2055 3.17135
East Indies .2055 3.17135
England and British India .2053 3.16826
Belgium (Antwerp) .2053 3.16826
Russia .2051 3.16517
Holland .2051 3.16517
Turkey .2005 3.09418
Spain .1999 3.08492
Java and Borneo .1969 3.03862
Florence .1965 3.03245
Arabia .1944 3.00004
Brazil .1922 2.96610
Egypt .1917 2.95838
Bologna .1886 2.91054
International carat .2050 3.16363
Proposed new international carat .2000 3.08647

Recalculating the above figures into pearl grains we have:

Page 396

PEARL GRAINS

Grams Grains Troy
Turin .053375 .823700
Persia .052375 .808267
Venice .051775 .799007
Austro-Hungary .051525 .795150
France (old) .051475 .794380
France (later) .051375 .792837
France (modern) .051250 .790907
Portugal .051450 .793902
Frankfort and Hamburg .051450 .793992
Germany .051375 .792837
East Indies .051375 .792837
England and British India .051325 .792065
Belgium (Antwerp) .051325 .792065
Russia .051275 .791292
Holland .051275 .791292
Turkey .050125 .773545
Spain .049975 .771230
Java and Borneo .049225 .759655
Florence .049125 .758112
Arabia .048600 .750010
Brazil .048050 .741522
Egypt .047925 .739595
Bologna .047150 .727635
International .051250 .790907
Proposed International .050000 .771617

With the present system of diamond carats and pearl grains it is necessary
to keep two entirely different sets of weights or to resort to troublesome
calculations. The stock-book of a jeweler, at the present time, will contain
the following fractions, expressing the weight of a single pearl: ½, ¼, ⅛,
1
⁄16, 1⁄32, 1⁄64, when the weight could be much better stated as 63⁄64 of a carat.
It requires but a glance to see how much easier this would be. Certain
dealers have therefore proposed the use of sets of fractions arranged in a
similar way. In this manner a stock-book can be kept much more easily and
with greater precision. Others, again, have adopted a decimal notation of

Page 397

the fractions of a carat, which is even more simple and feasible, since the
common fractions ½, ¼, ⅛, etc. can be expressed as .5, .25, .125, etc., of a
carat, this being either a carat of .2053 of a gram or the English carat of
.20534 of a gram.
On the other hand, an agreement was arrived at, as the result of a
conference between the diamond merchants of London, Paris, and
Amsterdam, by which the uniform weight of a diamond carat was fixed
at .205 of a gram, making the pearl grain .05125 of a gram. This standard,
which was suggested in 1871, by a syndicate of Parisian jewelers,
goldsmiths, and others dealing in precious stones, was subsequently (1877)
confirmed. But there is still a lack of uniformity in the standard by which
diamonds and pearls are bought and sold, and very serious discrepancies
exist in the sets of carat weights turned out by different makers, although
the international carat is almost universally used.
At the International Congress of Weights and Measures held at the
World’s Fair at Chicago in 1893, the writer suggested that the carat should
consist of 200 milligrams, so that ½ of a carat would be 100 milligrams and
¼ of a grain would be 12.5 milligrams. This would mean 5 carats or 20
grains to a French gram, and 5000 carats or 20,000 pearl grains to a French
kilogram. This would depreciate the present diamond carat or pearl grain
only about one per cent., and it would do away with the needless series of
carats and grains of the many nationalities. It could be simply explained to
any private individual in any country, especially as there are only two
countries which do not use the metric system.
This carat has been earnestly indorsed, its introduction advocated, and its
merits clearly shown, by M. Guilliame, of the French Bureau des Arts et
Metiers, whose energetic work has found a reasonable cooperation, in this
country as well as in Europe, in introducing what will be a scientific,
logical, comprehensive, and possibly the final and international carat; and
any ancient, obsolete, or foreign carat can be readily reduced to this carat
once the metric value of the former is computed.
The Association of Diamond Merchants of Amsterdam has already, to
avoid confusion, fixed the value of the carat (17th October, 1890) at 1
kilogram = 4875 carats, or 1 carat = 3.16561 grains troy = 205.128 mg. One
pearl grain = .7914 grains troy = 51.282 mg.; but the association has
decided that, in case of litigation, these values shall be determined by

Page 398

appointed bureaus, which would express them in grams and milligrams, a
most important and valuable decision, as the gram and the milligram will
always be known as weights of constant value.
In view of the difficulty of inducing the abolition of the carat in different
countries, the German Federation of Jewelers decided to petition the
imperial government for authority to use the carat, in order that it might be
legally recognized. Such a proposition not being in accord with the German
laws in force on the subject of the metric system, it was proposed to
substitute for the carats then in use one carat only, weighing two hundred
milligrams. This proposal was very favorably received in trade circles and
may be taken into consideration by the International Committee of Weights
and Measures. The Commission des Instruments et Travaux, to which this
proposition was referred, recommended its adoption to the committee in the
following terms:
“The Commission recognizes that it would be very desirable that the unit
of weight of precious stones (the carat) which varies in different countries,
should be made uniform, and should be reduced to the nearest metric
equivalent. The weight of 200 mg., which is very close to the carat most in
use (205.5 mg.), would seem to be the best for this purpose. The
Commission believes that there can be no objection to this standard of 200
mg. being called ‘the metric carat’ in order to facilitate the abolition of the
old carat.”
This proposition, adopted at the meeting of the International Committee
on the 13th of April, was communicated to the more important associations.
The Chambre Syndicale de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie et Orfèvrerie de Paris,
and the Chambre Syndicale des Négotiants en Diamants, Perles, Pierres
Précieuses et des Lapidaires de Paris assured the committee of their support
of this measure.
The following is the text of the resolution which was passed by both the
above associations in January, 1906:
“The Council, recognizing the advantages which would result to the
international trade in precious stones from the use of a unit based on the
metric system, desires that the metric carat of 200 mg. be universally
adopted.”
The German Federation of Jewelers passed the following resolution in
August, 1906:

Page 399

“The German Federation considers that it is both necessary and
advantageous to replace the old carat by the metric carat of 200 mg.; it
authorizes its president to approach the imperial government and the
International Bureau of Weights and Measures, and the foreign associations
in order that the metric carat may be introduced as soon as possible in all
countries.”
The Chamber of Commerce of Antwerp promised, in a letter dated the
7th of December, 1906, to rescind a decision of 29th of April, 1895,
approving the adoption of a carat of 205.3 mg., when the metric carat of
200 mg. should come into universal use in the markets.
The Association of Jewelers and Goldsmiths of Prague formally
authorized the German Federation to act in its name, in order that the
reform should come about as soon as possible by international agreement,
and the Association of Goldsmiths of Copenhagen has declared its
willingness to support the reform. The Committee of Weights and Measures
in Belgium prepared a law for the adoption of the metric carat in December,
1906.
Mr. Larking, president of the Chamber of Commerce of Melbourne,
Australia, has transmitted by letter of September 16, 1907, the following
resolution of the Association of Manufacturing Jewelers of the Colony of
Victoria:
“It is desirable that the carat weight should be the same in all countries,
and our association approves a metric carat of 200 milligrams.”
On October 16, 1907, the Association of Societies for the Protection of
Commerce in the United Kingdom passed the following resolution:
“The Committee of the Association approves the attempt to urge the
adoption in all countries of an international carat of 200 milligrams, and
hopes that, in the interest of the unification of weights, it will prove
successful.”
The fourth General Conference of Weights and Measures, held in Paris in
October, 1907, passed this resolution:
“The Conference approves the proposition of the International
Committee and declares that it sees no infringement of the integrity of the
metric system in the adoption of the appellation ‘metric carat’ to designate a

Page 400

weight of 200 milligrams for the commerce in diamonds, pearls, and
precious stones.”[379]
The following resolution was passed by The Birmingham Jewelers’ and
Silversmiths’ Association, January 23, 1908: “That the best thanks of this
Committee be conveyed to the Decimal Association for the good work they
are doing, and this Committee expresses the hope that all countries will
adopt an International Carat of 200 milligrams in weight.” Finally, on
March 11, 1908, the metric carat of 200 milligrams was adopted in Spain as
the official carat for diamonds, pearls, and precious stones.
Pearls have become of so much importance to so many dealers that a
special form of weight has been proposed for them. This would have a
diamond form and not a square form, and it would be stamped “Grain”
instead of “Carat.” Another set would be stamped in milligrams, the regular
milligram weight with the pearl fraction above it, and they could even be
made round so as better to designate the pearl.
The great value of pearls has suggested the making of a gage, called the
Kunz gage, by means of which round pearls can be very accurately
measured. Pearls of a given weight and perfectly spherical form have been
weighed and then measured by this gage, and the theoretical diameters as
computed from the measurement of a single pearl are in the majority of
instances in exact accord with these actual measurements, the occasional
variations in the smaller pearls barely exceeding the thousandth part of an
inch. These discrepancies may be due to imperceptible divergencies in
sphericity or, possibly, to trifling differences in specific gravity.
The following table gives the diameters of round pearls by measurement,
from 1⁄16 to 500 grains, in millimeters and inches:

Page 401

Weight Grains Diameter Millimeters Inches
1⁄ 1.3 .0512
16
⅛ 1.66 .0653
¼ 2.09 .0823
½ 2.65 .1043
¾ 2.99 .1187
1 3.32 .1307
1¼ 3.60 .1417
1½ 3.80 .1496
1¾ 3.98 .1567
2 4.18 .1645
2¼ 4.32 .1701
2½ 4.47 .1759
2¾ 4.63 .1823
3 4.80 .1889
3¼ 4.88 .1921
3½ 5.01 .1972
3¾ 5.17 .2035
4 5.23 .2058
4¼ 5.44 .2141
5 5.65 .2224
5½ 5.86 .2283
6 6.03 .2374
6½ 6.20 .2442
7 6.36 .2504
8 6.64 .2614
9 6.90 .2716
10 7.15 .2815
11 7.38 .2905
12 7.60 .2992
13 7.81 .3074
14 8.00 .3149
15 8.18 .3220
16 8.36 .3291
17 8.53 .3358
18 8.70 .3425
19 8.86 .3488
20 9.01 .3547
25 9.71 .3823

Page 402

30 10.31 .4059
35 10.86 .4275
40 11.35 .4468
45 11.82 .4653
50 12.23 .4815
60 13.00 .5118
70 13.38 .5386
80 14.30 .5630
90 14.89 .5862
100 15.42 .6071
125 16.60 .6535
150 17.63 .6941
200 19.41 .7641
300 22.22 .8748
400 24.46 .9630
500 26.35 1.0374

The new and finer analytical balances weigh to the tenth part of a
milligram, the two thousandth part of a carat, the five hundredth part of a
grain; but this is not necessary. If the 200–milligram carat were used, the
two hundredth part of a carat could readily be ascertained, and then a short-
beam, rapid-weighing balance would answer every purpose and save much
time for the dealer who must make many weighings in the course of a day.
In an office where thousands of weighings were made in a month, the task
was accomplished with such minute accuracy that the margin of error did
not exceed one carat during that time.
The mina, the sixtieth part of the lesser Alexandrian talent of silver, was
divided by the Romans, when they occupied Egypt, into twelve ounces
(unciae), and, weighing as it did 5460 grains, it became the predecessor of
the European pounds of which the troy pound is a type. If we may believe a
Syrian authority, Anania of Shiraz, who wrote in the sixth century, the carat
or diamond weight was originally formed from one of these ounces by
taking the 1⁄144 part.[380]
We find in Murray[381] that the Greek κεράτιον was originally identical
with the Latin siliqua, and was called the siliqua Graeca. As a measure of
weight and fineness the carat represents the Roman siliqua as 1⁄24 of the
golden solidus of Constantine, which was ⅙ of an ounce, hence the various
values into which 1⁄24 and 1⁄144 enter, or originally entered. As a measure of

Page 403

weight for diamonds and precious stones, it was originally 1⁄144 of an ounce
or 3⅓ grains. It is stated in Hakluyt (Voy. II, pp. 1, 225, 1598): “Those
pearls are praised according to the caracts which they weigh; every caract is
four graines.”
There have been at all times men who possessed a delicate touch or a fine
sense of feeling, but probably few men are living to-day who would be able
to accomplish the feat attributed to Julius Cæsar, namely, that of estimating
the weight of a pearl by simply holding it in his hand. There are very few
who can tell the weight of a pearl in this way, and while the story may be
historically interesting, it is rather dubious.
To attempt to formulate a list of prices, comparative or otherwise, of
pearls, is almost an impossibility, as probably no two authors of the past
three centuries have ever seen the same lot of pearls, nor have their
estimates always been the same as to quality, rarity and value.
As interesting statistics from an historical point of view, there will be
presented here a list of the values of pearls dating back some ten centuries.
That there always has existed a higher valuation for the larger pearls, which
are the rarest, will readily be apparent, but that the correct value of a pearl
of one, ten, twenty or fifty grains be definitely given for the years 1602,
1702, 1802, or 1902 is an impossibility. However, we believe this to be the
first attempt to present so large a body of carefully selected quotations, and
they are given to the reader, whether he be layman or professional, for what
they are worth.
In regard to the smaller pearls, as is the case with the smaller diamonds,
prices have been dependent upon the changes of fashion; that is, whether
the prevailing style of jewelry was such that the smaller pearl or diamond
was in demand. In other words, if they were used as a decoration forming a
border, a flower, a scroll ornament, or a pave requiring many small gems,
the demand naturally increased and the prices were higher or lower as the
occasion required.
It is not the project of this book to fix the prices of pearls at the present
time, for any such attempt would prove misleading, owing to the fact that
pearls vary in the estimation of the different dealers, and a figure given here
for the highest standard, if applied to an inferior grade, would necessarily
mislead the buyer to his positive injury. This much, however, can be said:
during the year 1907 pearls from five grains upward have been sold

Page 404

according to their quality, at a base of five, eight, ten, fifteen, or even
twenty dollars in very exceptional cases; that is to say, twenty, thirty-two,
forty, sixty, or eighty shillings, or twenty-five, forty, fifty, seventy-five or
one hundred francs. Nevertheless, it would be impossible, without
considerable experience, for a layman to apply these valuations to objects
that require much practice in determining their quality and perfection.
With diamonds, rubies, and emeralds there may be a stated price per carat
for stones of a certain size, but a gem of unusual perfection or brilliancy, or
of exceptionally fine color, will often command a price far beyond that
generally quoted. It is the same with the pearl. Sums which may seem
exorbitant in comparison with those that are paid for ordinary pearls, are
often given for specimens remarkable for their beauty, size, or luster.
Pearls of one hundred grains are even more rare at the present time than
are diamonds of one hundred carats. Until the middle of the nineteenth
century, the diamonds of the world weighing one hundred carats or over
could be counted on the fingers, but since the opening of the African mines
in 1870, the number of large diamonds has increased at a much greater ratio
than have the pearls of one quarter of their weight. It would thus seem that
pearls of great size are worth four times as much as diamonds of equal
weight. For instance, a 100–carat diamond of the finest quality would be
worth at least from $1000 to $1500 a carat, making a total value of
$100,000 to $150,000; and a pearl of 100 grains at a base of $10 would be
worth $100,000. But no such high price has ever been paid.
The usual method of estimating the value of pearls is by establishing a
base value for those weighing one grain and then multiplying this amount
by the square of the number of grains that the pearl weighs. For instance, if
the base value of a one-grain pearl should be fixed at $1, a pearl weighing
two grains would be worth $4 (2 × 2 = 4), or $2 per grain; one weighing
five grains would be worth $25, or $5 per grain, etc. Naturally, these values
increase in proportion to the increase in the value of the base. A base of $3
would give a value of $75 for a five-grain pearl, or $15 per grain, while a
$10 base would make the value $50 per grain, or $250.
This method of estimating pearls by squaring their weights has been
credited by many authors to David Jeffries, who published an interesting
treatise on diamonds and pearls in 1750–1753. It has also been credited to
Tavernier, the oriental traveler of the middle of the seventeenth century. We

Page 405

have, however, traced this method back to Anselmus de Boot, in his treatise
on precious stones, dated 1609. Before this date we have not been able to
find any mention of the computation of the value of diamonds and pearls by
squaring their weight and multiplying the product by a base of a franc,
guilder, crown, dollar, or of many dollars, as would be necessary at present.
It is probable, however, that this system is of oriental origin and it may have
come to Europe through some of the oriental traders, with the precious
stones, as did the use of the carat.
De Boot makes the carat (four grains) his unit of comparison, increasing
his base value by one third for pearls weighing eleven carats (forty-four
grains) or over. In Pio Naldi’s treatise, published in Bologna in 1791, the
unit is the grain, the base being the fourth part of the value of four pearls
weighing together one carat. Naldi, also, increases his base value making it
1½ lire ($.30) for pearls weighing less than ten grains, and 2½ lire ($.50) for
those weighing twenty grains and upward.
A curious method of valuing pearls by their weight is shown in a treatise
by Buteo, published in 1554.[382] The writer states that a pearl weighing two
carats was valued at 5 gold crowns; one of four carats at 25 crowns; and so
on, the price increasing fivefold when the weight was doubled. The
intermediate figures were obtained by computing the proportional mean of
any two known weights and values. For example: 8 × 4 = 32, the square
root of which is 5.656. Now, the value of a four-carat pearl is 25 and that of
an eight-carat pearl 125 crowns, and 125 × 25 = 3125, the square root being
55.9; hence a pearl weighing 5.656 carats was worth 55.9 crowns.
The base value of a necklace can be determined in the following way.
Should the center pearl weigh 25 grains, multiply 25 by 25; the result is
625; then, take the next two, three, or four pearls, as many as are of
approximately the same weight, add their weights together, multiply the
resulting figure by itself and divide the product by the number of pearls in
the group. Proceed in exactly the same way with the remainder of the
necklace, always grouping the pearls so that there shall not be a
considerable difference in weight between the smallest and the largest pearl,
and then add together the figures obtained for the center pearl and for the
various groups and divide the price of the necklace by this total; the
quotient will represent the multiple or base.

Page 406

As may be seen by comparison of the first with the second and third of
the accompanying tables, the result arrived at in this way will, if there is
any difference in the weight of the pearls in the various groups, vary
slightly from that obtained by calculating the weight of each pearl
separately, but it represents a satisfactory approximation.

NECKLACE OF 41 GRADUATED PEARLS ON A $10 BASE

1 pearl, weighing 25 grs. 25 × 25 625.000
2 pearls, each of 22 grs. 44 × 44 1936 ÷2= 968.000
2 pearls, each of 20 grs. 40 × 40 1600 ÷2= 800.000
2 pearls, each of 19 grs. 38 × 38 1444 ÷2= 722.000
2 pearls, each of 18 grs. 36 × 36 1296 ÷2= 648.000
2 pearls, each of 17½ grs. 35 × 35 1225 ÷2= 612.500
2 pearls, each of 17 grs. 34 × 34 1156 ÷2= 578.000
2 pearls, each of 16½ grs. 33 × 33 1089 ÷2= 544.500
2 pearls, each of 16 grs. 32 × 32 1024 ÷2= 512.000
2 pearls, each of 15½ grs. 31 × 31 961 ÷2= 480.500
2 pearls, each of 15 grs. 30 × 30 900 ÷2= 450.000
2 pearls, each of 14½ grs. 29 × 29 841 ÷2= 420.500
2 pearls, each of 14 grs. 28 × 28 784 ÷2= 392.000
2 pearls, each of 13½ grs. 27 × 27 729 ÷2= 364.500
2 pearls, each of 13 grs. 26 × 26 676 ÷2= 338.000
2 pearls, each of 12½ grs. 25 × 25 625 ÷2= 312.500
2 pearls, each of 12 grs. 24 × 24 576 ÷2= 288.000
2 pearls, each of 11½ grs. 23 × 23 529 ÷2= 264.500
2 pearls, each of 11 grs. 22 × 22 484 ÷2= 242.000
2 pearls, each of 10¾ grs. 21½ × 462¼ ÷2= 231.125
21½
2 pearls, each of 10¼ grs. 20½ × 420¼ ÷2= 210.125
20½

41 624 10,003.750
$10 × 10,003.75 = $100,037.50

Page 407

THE SAME NECKLACE FIGURED IN GROUPS

1 pearl, weighing 25 grs. 25 × 25 = 625.00
2 pearls, total weight 44 grs. 44 × 44 = 1936 ÷ 2 = 968.00
4 pearls, total weight 78 grs. 78 × 78 = 6084 ÷ 4 = 1521.00
4 pearls, total weight 71 grs. 71 × 71 = 5041 ÷ 4 = 1260.25
6 pearls, total weight 99 grs. 99 × 99 = 9801 ÷ 6 = 1633.50
6 pearls, total weight 90 grs. 90 × 90 = 8100 ÷ 6 = 1350.00
6 pearls, total weight 81 grs. 81 × 81 = 6561 ÷ 6 = 1093.50
6 pearls, total weight 72 grs. 72 × 72 = 5184 ÷ 6 = 864.00
6 pearls, total weight 64 grs. 64 × 64 = 4096 ÷ 6 = 682.67

624 9997.92
$10 × 9997.92 = $99,979.20

GREAT PEARL
NECKLACE OF
THE FRENCH
CROWN JEWELS

Composed of 362
pearls, weighing
58.8 grains. Actual
size. Worn by
Empress Eugenia

Page 408

On a $5 base this necklace would be worth $50,018.75 according to the
first reckoning, and $49,989.60 according to the second; on a base of $2.50
the figures would be $25,009.37 and $24,994.80 respectively.

THE SAME NECKLACE FIGURED IN OTHER GROUPS

1 pearl, weighing 25 grs. 25 × 25 = 625.00
4 pearls, total weight 84 grs. 84 × 84 = 7056 ÷ 4= 1764.00
6 pearls, total weight 109 grs. 109 109 11881 ÷ 6= 1980.16
× =
6 pearls, total weight 99 grs. 99 × 99 = 9801 ÷ 6= 1633.50
6 pearls, total weight 90 grs. 90 × 90 = 8100 ÷ 6= 1350.00
8 pearls, total weight 106 grs. 106 106 11236 ÷ 8= 1404.50
× =
10 pearls, total weight 111 grs. 111 111 12321 ÷ 10 1232.10
× = =

624 9989.26

$10 × 9989.26 = $99,892.60

On a $5 base this would represent a value of $49,946.30 and one of
$24,973.15 on a base of $2.50. The different grouping of the pearls
accounts for the slight reduction in value.
A system of estimating the value of pearls which has recently been
introduced into Germany, is an adaptation of the ordinary method of
squaring the number of grains and then multiplying the result by a certain
base figure. The pearls are first grouped according to quality and size, and a
figure is agreed upon as the multiplicator of each class. In Germany the
carat is employed as the weight unit for pearls as well as for diamonds, and
in this new system the total weight of a given number of pearls of the same
class is first reduced to grains; the number of grains is then multiplied by
four and the quotient is multiplied by the figure agreed upon. The resulting
sum, after being divided by the number of pearls, gives the carat value of
such pearls. For example, if the base figure agreed upon is 5, and we wish
to find the carat worth of 4 pearls of similar size, weighing together 314⁄64
carats, the sum would be as follows:

Page 409

206 × 4 × 4 × 5
= 64.37
64 × 4

At this rate per carat, reckoning in marks, the value of the 314⁄64 carats
would be 207.20 marks. This result is identical with that obtained by the
ordinary method, but the calculation is perhaps a trifle simplified.[383]
A curious Hindu treatise on gems has been preserved for us in the
Brhatsamhitâ of Varâhamihira (505–587 A.D.). It is the earliest work of this
kind that we have in Sanskrit, and M. Louis Finot,[384] who has published it,
together with several other similar treatises, believes that it was based upon
an original composed at a much earlier period. In his introduction M. Finot
says: “It would be an error to regard the ratnaçastra [treatise on gems] as a
simple manual for the use of jewelers. Without doubt this subject formed
one of the principal branches of commercial instruction, ... but it was also
taught to princes and it is for their use that the ratnaçastras we publish seem
to have been composed.”
This treatise only describes four gems, although a larger number are
enumerated. These gems are the diamond, the pearl, the ruby, and the
emerald. One of the most interesting portions is that treating of the
valuation of pearls. The system described is peculiar, and, unfortunately,
there is some difficulty in finding an absolutely correct equivalent for the
values expressed.
A price is first placed upon a pearl weighing 4 mâsakas (about 45 grains).
This is estimated at 5300 kârsâpanas (about $1600). As the weight
diminishes the valuation decreases as follows:

Page 410

4 mâsakas 5300 kârsâpanas
3½ mâsakas 3200 kârsâpanas
3 mâsakas 2000 kârsâpanas
2½ mâsakas 1300 kârsâpanas
2 mâsakas 800 kârsâpanas
1½ mâsakas 353 kârsâpanas
1 mâsakas 135 kârsâpanas
4 guñjas[385] 90 kârsâpanas
3 guñjas 50 kârsâpanas
2½ guñjas 35 kârsâpanas

Smaller pearls were grouped together in dharanas (one dharana = about
72 grains). If there were thirteen fine pearls in a dharana, they were valued
at 325 rûpakas (about $100); the other values were as follows:

16 pearls in a dharana were worth 200 rûpakas
20 pearls in a dharana were worth 170 rûpakas
25 pearls in a dharana were worth 130 rûpakas
30 pearls in a dharana were worth 70 rûpakas
40 pearls in a dharana were worth 50 rûpakas
55–60 pearls in a dharana were worth 40 rûpakas
80 pearls in a dharana were worth 30 rûpakas
100 pearls in a dharana were worth 25 rûpakas
200 pearls in a dharana were worth 12 rûpakas
300 pearls in a dharana were worth 6 rûpakas
400 pearls in a dharana were worth 5 rûpakas
500 pearls in a dharana were worth 3 rûpakas

It would be extremely interesting if we could find at this early date (sixth
century A.D.) an indication of the use of the system of computing the value
of pearls by the square of their weight as expressed in some weight unit,
and it is singular that the three valuations given for the weight in guñjas are
graduated in accordance with this system. A pearl weighing 2½ guñjas and
valued at 35 kârṣapâṇas would have a base value of 5.6 kârṣâpaṇas.
Estimated at this ratio we would have the following figures:

Page 411

3 guñjas 50.4 kârṣâpaṇas
4 guñjas 89.6 kârṣâpaṇas

Now, the values actually given are 50 and 90 kârṣâpaṇas, respectively,
and these figures are easily obtained by rejecting the fraction that is less
than one half and counting the fraction that is in excess of one half as a unit.
After this, however, the progression becomes irregular. A pearl weighing 1
mâṣaka (5 guñjas) is valued at 135 kârṣâpaṇas, while the equivalent
according to the system would be 140. However, it is possible that the
writer may have changed this figure intentionally so as to add exactly one
half to the preceding valuation (90 + 45 = 135). The succeeding values bear
no relation to the system and appear to be entirely arbitrary. Still, it can
scarcely be due to hazard that the first three figures are practically in exact
accord with the system and the fourth in close approximation. As the
change seems to come when the weight is expressed in mâṣakas instead of
guñjas, we are tempted to think that the system may have been used for
single pearls weighing less than twelve grains (1 mâṣaka = 11¼ grains),
while the value of those over that weight was estimated in a different way.
In a much later Hindu treatise, by Buddhabhatta, after certain values have
been given for pearls of the best quality, a pearl of this class is described as
follows:
White, round, heavy, smooth, luminous, spotless, the pearl gifted with these qualities is called
qualified (guṇavat). If it be yellow, it is worth half this price; if it be not round, a third; if flat or
triangular, a sixth.[386]
One of the earliest records we have of a system of prices for pearls is the
treatise on precious stones written in the year 1265, by Ahmed ibn Yusuf al
Teifashi, who was probably a native jeweler of Egypt. In his time pearls
were sold in Bagdad in bunches of ten strings, each string comprising
thirty-six pearls. If one of these strings weighed one sixth of a miskal (four
carats or sixteen grains), the ten strings were valued at four dinars (about
ten dollars). The values increased progressively as follows:[387]

Page 412

Average weight of each 10 strings of 36 pearls, weight of each Value
pearl string
Grains Carats Grains Dinars U. S.
money
½ 4 16 4 $10.00
⅔ 6 24 5 12.50
1⅓ 12 48 6 15.00
2 18 72 10 25.00
3⅓ 30 120 15 37.50
4 36 144 20 50.00
4⅓ 42 168 25 62.50
5⅓ 48 192 35 87.50
6 54 216 40 100.00
7⅓ 66 264 70 175.00
8 72 288 80 200.00
9⅓ 84 336 110 275.00
10 90 360 150 375.00
10⅔ 96 384 200 500.00
12 108 432 400 1000.00
12⅔ 114 456 550 1375.00
13⅓ 120 480 650 1625.00
14 126 504 750 1875.00
14⅔ 132 528 800 2000.00
16 144 576 1000 2500.00
18⅔ 168 672 1500 3750.00

Al Teifashi then proceeds to describe a pearl of the first quality; it must
be “perfectly round in all its parts, colorless and gifted with a fine water.
When a pearl possesses these requisites and weighs one miskal [24 carats or
96 grains] it is worth 300 dinars [$750]. If, however, a match is found for
this pearl and each one weighs one miskal and has the same form, the two
pearls together cost 700 dinars [$1750].” This writer also mentions that in
the shops of the Arab jewelers, the pearl which exceeded the weight of a
drachma (12 carats or 48 grains) even by one grain, was called dorra, while
the name johar was used for that which did not reach the above weight.
In 1838, Feuchtwanger gave the price of a one-carat pearl as five dollars,
and used this amount as the multiplier of the square of the weight;
therefore, a four-carat pearl would cost four times four multiplied by five

Page 413

dollars, the value of the first carat; that is to say, a sixteen-grain (four-carat)
pearl would have been worth eighty dollars in 1838, according to this
computation.

THE SIAMESE PRINCE IN
FULL REGALIA

In 1858, Barbot[388] gave the value of pearls under ordinary conditions,
but very indefinitely, as follows:

Grains Carats Francs per carat U. S. currency

1 ¼ 4 $0.80
2 ½ 10 2.00
3 ¾ 25 5.00
4 1 50 10.00

Above four grains they sold by the piece, and below, by the ounce. Baroque
pearls sold for 300 to 1000 francs per ounce. Seed-pearls, if quite round,
were worth about 120 francs per ounce.
Emanuel[389] gave the following table of prices for the pearl, reduced to
United States currency:

Page 414

Grains 1865 1867

3 $2.88— $3.84 $4.32— $4.80
4 5.28— 6.72 6.72— 8.40
5 8.40— 10.80 9.60— 12.00
6 13.20— 15.60 16.80— 19.20
8 21.60— 26.40 24.00— 28.80
10 38.40— 43.20 48.00— 52.80
12 57.60— 72.00 67.20— 76.80
14 72.00— 86.40 86.40— 96.00
16 96.00—144.00 96.00—144.00
18 144.00—192.00 144.00—192.00
20 192.00—240.00 192.00—240.00
24 288.00—345.60 288.00—345.60
30 384.00—480.00 384.00—480.00

The following values appear in the “Encyclopedia Hispano-Americana,”
Barcelona, 1894, Vol. XV, p. 180 (Louis Dieulafait):

Grains Value, 1865 Value, 1867
Pesetas U. S. currency Pesetas U. S. currency

3 17— 18 $3.40— $3.60 21— 23 $4.20— $4.60
4 25— 32 5.00— 6.40 32— 40 6.40— 8.00
5 41— 52 8.20— 10.40 46— 58 9.20— 11.60
6 64— 75 12.80— 15.00 81— 93 16.20— 18.60
8 104— 128 20.80— 25.60 116— 139 23.20— 27.80
10 202— 227 40.40— 45.40 252— 277 50.40— 55.40
12 302— 378 60.40— 75.60 352— 403 70.40— 80.60
14 378— 453 75.60— 90.60 455— 504 91.00—100.80
16 504— 756 100.80—151.20 504— 756 100.80—151.20
18 756—1005 151.20—201.00 756—1005 151.20—201.00
20 1005—1260 201.00—252.00 1005—1260 201.00—252.00
24 1512—1815 302.40—363.00 1512—1815 302.40—363.00
30 2117—2521 423.40—504.20 2117—2521 423.40—504.20

Page 415

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT SHOWING THE VALUES OF PEARLS AT STATED
TIMES

Weight 1609[390] 1672[391] 1675[392] 1751[393] 1774[394] 1791[395]
Grains Thal. Kreutz. Livres £ s £ s £ s Lire

1 0 13 0 ½ 0 1 0 ⅓ 1½
2 0 52 2 0 2 0 4 0 2 6
3 1 47 5 0 6 0 9 0 7½ 13½
4 3 0 10 0 12 0 16 0 18 24
5 4 48 18 1 5 1 5 1 10 37½
6 6 52 28 2 10 1 16 2 5 54
7 9 13 38 4 10 2 9 3 1 73½
8 12 0 55 6 0 3 4 4 10 96
9 15 23 75 8 0 4 1 6 0 121½
10 18 52 100 10 0 5 0 8 5 150
11 22 48 130 12 0 6 1 9 15 242
12 27 175 14 0 7 4 288
13 31 48 16 0 8 9 13 15 338
14 36 52 270 18 0 9 16 392
15 42 13 21 10 11 5 21 0 450
16 48 380 25 0 12 16 512
17 54 13 30 0 14 9 27 10 578
18 60 52 500 35 0 16 4 648
19 67 48 37 10 18 1 722
20 75 650 40 0 20 0 37 10 800
22 90 52 50 0 24 4 52 10 1210
24 108 60 0 28 16 82 10 1440
26 126 52 33 16 99 0 1690
28 147 39 14 150 0 1960
32 192 51 4 225 0 2560
36 243 64 16 262 10 3240
40 300 80 0 300 0 4000
45 506 17 101 5 5062½
50 625 125 0 6250
60 900 180 0 9000
70 1225 245 0 12250
80 1600 320 0 16000
90 2025 405 0 20250

Page 416

100 2500 500 0 25000

Page 417

COMPARATIVE STATEMENT SHOWING THE VALUES OF PEARLS AT STATED
TIMES, REDUCED TO UNITED STATES CURRENCY

Weight Grains 1609 1672 1675 1751 1774 1791

1 $0.20 $0.12 $0.24 $0.09 $0.30
2 0.81 $0.80 0.48 0.96 0.50 1.20
3 1.82 1.90 1.44 2.16 1.87 2.70
4 3.24 3.80 2.88 3.84 4.50 4.80
5 5.06 6.84 6.00 6.00 7.50 7.50
6 7.28 10.64 12.00 8.64 11.25 10.80
7 10.92 14.44 21.60 11.76 15.25 14.70
8 12.96 20.90 28.80 15.36 22.50 19.20
9 16.40 28.50 38.40 19.44 30.00 24.30
10 20.25 38.00 48.00 24.00 41.25 30.00
11 24.50 49.40 57.60 29.04 48.75 48.40
12 29.16 66.50 67.20 34.56 57.60
13 34.22 76.80 40.56 68.75 67.60
14 39.69 102.60 86.40 47.04 78.40
15 45.56 103.20 54.00 105.00 90.00
16 51.84 144.40 120.00 61.44 102.40
17 58.52 144.00 60.36 137.50 115.60
18 65.61 190.00 168.00 77.76 129.60
19 73.10 180.00 86.64 144.40
20 81.00 247.00 192.00 96.00 187.50 160.00
22 98.01 240.00 116.16 262.50 242.00
24 116.64 288.00 138.24 412.50 288.00
26 136.89 162.24 495.00 338.00
28 158.76 188.16 750.00 392.00
32 207.36 245.76 1125.00 512.00
36 262.44 311.04 1312.50 648.00
40 324.00 384.00 1500.00 800.00
45 546.75 486.00 1012.50
50 675.00 600.00 1250.00
60 972.00 864.00 1800.00
70 1323.00 1176.00 2450.00
80 1728.00 1536.00 3200.00
90 2187.00 1944.00 4050.00
100 2700.00 2400.00 5000.00

Page 418

Giving the pearl values in 1867, Emanuel[396] says: “It would be almost
useless to give any value for drop pearls, as when of large size and fine
quality they are of so rare occurrence as to command fancy prices; still, as a
slight guide, it may be mentioned that perfect white drop pearls, of 80 to
100 grains, may be estimated at from £7 to £11 [$35–$55] per grain; those
of 50 to 80 grains at from £4 to £7 [$20–$35] per grain, and those of 30 to
50 grains at from £3–£5 [$15–$25] per grain; smaller sizes bring from 20s.
to 60s. [$5–$15] per grain.”
Emanuel also states that misshapen pieces called “baroque pearls” (perles
baroques), are sold by the ounce, the price varying from £10 to £200 ($50–
$1000) per ounce, depending on quality, color, and size.

PRICES IN NEW YORK CITY IN 1878

Grains Value per grain Total value

1 $1.00 $1.00
2 1.83 3.66
3 2.75 8.25
4 3.60 14.40
5 4.03 20.15
6 4.69 28.14
7 6.32 44.24
8 6.87 54.96
9 7.42 66.78
10 8.25 82.50
11 9.62 105.82
12 10.45 125.40
13 11.68 151.84
14 12.55 175.70
15 14.20 213.00
20 19.70 394.00
24 24.75 594.00

Page 419

HALF-PEARLS
I QUALITY. PER HUNDRED

Diameter
Size No. Millimeters Inches 1873 1876 1878 1885 1908
4 $1.10 $0.85 $0.50 $1.55
5 1.20 .047 1.35 $0.70 1.00 .60 1.95
6 1.22 .048 1.80 .90 1.35 .70 2.90
7 1.24 .049 2.25 1.10 1.70 1.12 3.88
8 1.26 .049 2.70 1.35 2.00 1.80 5.27
9 1.28 .050 3.35 1.80 2.50 2.00 6.65
10 1.80 .071 4.50 2.25 3.40 3.00 9.15
11 1.83 .072 5.60 2.70 4.20 4.00 11.36
12 1.86 .073 8.00 3.35 5.90 5.00 13.86
13 1.90 .075 9.00 4.50 6.75 5.75 15.51
14 2.00 .078 11.00 5.60 8.40 6.75 17.50
15 2.10 .082 14.00 8.00 10.00 8.25 20.80
16 2.25 .088 17.00 9.00 12.50 10.50 25.00
17 2.40 .094 19.00 11.00 14.00 12.00 30.50
18 2.60 .102 23.00 14.00 17.00 14.50 37.40
19 2.75 .108 28.00 17.00 21.00 16.25 48.50
20 2.90 .114 33.00 19.00 24.00 18.25 61.00
22 3.05 .120 42.00 28.00 31.00 33.00
24 3.15 .124 53.00 38.00 39.00 48.00
26 3.30 .130 67.00 45.00 50.00 69.00
28 3.55 .140 101.00 56.00 75.00 98.00
30 3.90 .153 124.00 79.00 92.00 150.00

Page 420

HALF PEARLS
II QUALITY. PER HUNDRED

Size No. 1873 1876 1878 1885 1908
4 $0.55 $0.45 $0.30 $0.84
5 .70 $0.35 .50 .35 1.22
6 .90 .45 .70 .50 1.87
7 1.10 .55 .85 .80 3.05
8 1.35 .70 1.00 1.05 4.43
9 1.80 .90 1.35 1.45 5.82
10 2.25 1.10 1.70 1.80 8.32
11 3.35 1.35 2.50 2.60 10.53
12 4.00 1.80 3.00 3.00 12.75
13 4.50 2.25 3.40 3.75 14.41
14 5.60 3.35 4.20 4.25 15.51
15 6.75 4.00 5.00 4.75 18.00
16 9.00 4.50 6.75 5.25 20.80
17 10.00 5.60 7.50 6.00 26.35
18 11.00 6.75 8.40 7.00 31.90
19 14.00 9.00 10.00 7.75 41.60
20 17.00 10.00 12.50 8.75 52.70
22 20.00 14.00 15.00
24 27.00 19.00 20.00
26 34.00 23.00 25.00
28 51.00 28.00 38.00
30 62.00 40.00 46.00

Page 421

HALF PEARLS
III QUALITY. PER HUNDRED

Size No. 1876 1907 Size No. 1876 1908
4 $0.47 15 2.70 8.93
5 $0.25 .70 16 3.35 11.20
6 .35 1.11 17 4.00 13.90
7 .40 1.94 18 4.50 18.00
8 .45 2.77 19 5.60 22.20
9 .70 3.86 20 6.75 27.75
10 .80 4.99 22 9.00 40.00
11 .90 5.82 24 14.00 75.00
12 1.10 6.65 26 17.00 85.00
13 1.60 7.48 28 19.00 100.00
14 2.25 8.32 30 28.00 200.00

VALUE OF IRREGULAR PEARLS IN 1774[397]

Pearls to the Value in English Equivalent in U. S. Average for each
ounce money currency pearl
£ s.
500 3 0 $15.00 $0.03
300 6 0 30.00 .10
150 11 2 55.50 .37
100 18 0 90.00 .90
60 33 15 168.75 2.81
30 75 0 375.00 12.50

The following values for the smaller oriental pearls are given in the
“Museum Brittanicum” of John and Andrew van Rymsdyck, 1778, p. 9.

Page 422

No. to the ounce Rix dollars Equivalent in U. S. currency Average for each pearl
200 70 $75.60 $0.378
300 50 54.00 .18
900 10 10.80 .012
2000 3 4.24 .00212
4000 2½ 2.70 .006755
8000 2 2.16 .00027
10,000 } 2 2.16 { .000216

Pio Naldi’s treatise of 1791 gives the following rule for estimating the
value of small, round pearls, weighing less than one carat or four grains. As
the carat value of four such pearls is given as five lire and 576 one-grain
pearls were counted as one ounce, these two numbers were used to
determine the value of an ounce of small pearls. The product of 576
multiplied by 5 is 2880, and this number was then divided by 2000, 1000,
500, or whatever might be the number of pearls in a given ounce. If there
were 2000 pearls, the carat value would be 1.44 lire or $.29; if there were
1000, the carat would be worth 2.88 lire or $.57; if 500, 5.76 lire or $1.15,
etc.

Page 423

HALF-PEARLS: LOTS OF
THREE DIFFERENT SIZES.

BROOCH OF HALF-
PEARLS AND ONYX.
UNITED STATES, 1860

The same author[398] gives tables expressing the values of pearls not
perfectly spherical in form, which he designates as “perle dolce.” These
pearls he considers to be worth half the price of good round pearls; that is to
say, 2½ lire (about $.50) per carat for four weighing together one carat.
Where there are as many as three thousand of these “perle dolce” in an
ounce, the 2½ lire base is multiplied by 576, the number of grains given to
the ounce; this makes the value of an ounce of one-grain pearls $288. This
amount is then divided by 3000, and the quotient, $.096, represents the
value of one carat of these small pearls. Multiplying this by 144 we obtain,
as the value of an ounce of such pearls, $13.82. An ounce consisting of two
thousand would be worth $20.73, while if there were but one hundred to the
ounce it would be valued at $414.72, or $4.15 for each pearl and $.72 per
grain of weight. In this latter case the pearls would average 5¾ grains.
Another class of pearls denominated by this author as “scaramazzi,” pearls
of an irregular form and with protuberances, are estimated in a similar way,
but at exactly half of the above values. The baroque pearls were not
considered to be worth even half as much as the “scaramazzi.”

Page 424

Scotch pearls (fresh-water) are mentioned by De Boot (1609, p. 88 sq.)
among the other western pearls—Bohemian, etc. He remarks that they were
valued much less than the oriental pearls, but if they were of especially pure
color their value was greater, although they lacked the silvery hue
characteristic of the eastern pearl. Fine pearls of this sort were valued on a
carat base of one fourth of a thaler ($.27), so that a forty-grain pearl was
worth $27, and one of eighty grains, $108. The author of the Bologna
treatise, “Delle Gemme,” 1791, attributes the lack of luster in the Scotch
pearls to the presence of a dark mass in the interior which interfered with
the passage of light. He estimates Scotch pearls to be worth one half the
value of oriental pearls of mediocre quality, provided the former are fairly
good.
A Scotch writer of the seventeenth century is more enthusiastic in regard
to these pearls; he mentions having paid one hundred rix dollars for an
exceptionally fine one, but he does not specify its weight. This is the value
given by De Boot for a pearl of this class weighing eighty grains, as we
have just mentioned. The Scotch writer asserts that he could never sell a
necklace of fine Scotch pearls in Scotland itself, as every one wanted
oriental pearls; he continues: “At this very day I can show some of our own
Scots Pearls as fine, more hard and transparent than any Oriental. It is true
that the Oriental can be easier matched, because they are all of a yellow
water, yet foreigners covet Scots Pearls.”
In Ceylon[399] and India, pearl-grading and valuing has received close
attention, and an elaborate system has been evolved by the pearl merchants.
This system has been in use for generations and possibly for centuries.
Although apparently very complicated, it is in reality quite simple, if we
only remember that the value of inferior pearls is determined by their
weight, whereas the value of superior pearls is computed from the square of
their weight.
The pearls are first grouped according to the size, of which ten grades are
made. This is done by passing them successively through ten brass saucer-
like sieves or baskets (peddi), each about three and a half inches in diameter
and one inch deep. The holes in the bottom of each sieve are of uniform
size, but they are graduated in size for the different baskets. The pearls are
sifted in the basket with the largest holes, and those which will not pass
through are of the first size. The pearls which pass through are then sifted in

Page 425

the second basket, and those retained are of the second size; and so on
through the entire series of ten sieves or baskets. Those which pass through
the tenth sieve are known as masi-túl, or powder pearls; they are of little
value owing to their very small size, and are not subject to further
classification. Of course, the attached pearls or very irregular baroques—the
oddumuttu—are not subject to the sifting process, and are valued
independently of this.
Sometimes in India, as well as in western countries, false measures are
used, and an oriental pearl merchant may have one set of sieves for use in
buying and another for selling. The rule for determining the proper size of
the holes in the first sieve is that they may pass pearls weighing 20 to the
kalan̄ chǔ, whence this sieve is commonly known as the “20 peddi.” The
second sieve is the “30 peddi,” since it passes pearls weighing 30 to the
kalan̄ chǔ. In the proper order the other sieves respectively pass pearls
requiring 50, 80, 100, 200, 400, 600, 800, and 1000 to the kalan̄ chǔ.
This use of sieves for grading the Ceylon pearls was mentioned by
Cleandro Arnobio, a writer of the latter part of the sixteenth century, in his
“Tesoro delle Gioie,” and he took his description from an older writer,
Garzia dell’ Horto.
After the sifting, each of the ten graded lots of pearls are placed on pieces
of cloth for classification as to quality, shape, and luster. This classification
requires much skill and judgment on the part of the valuer. Not only will
two persons commonly fail to class a large lot of pearls exactly alike, but
one person is not likely to class the same lot twice in precisely the same
manner.

Page 426

A. B. Pearl nose rings.
Baroda, India.

C. East Indian earring of
strings of pearls and table
diamonds.

Collection of Edmund
Russell, Esq.

D. E. Grape pendants.
Oriental pearls.

From long established custom, recognition is made of twelve classes into
which the ten grades or sizes of pearls are divided with respect to shape and
luster, the local names of these classes giving a fair indication of their
respective characteristics. These names are:

1 Ani, “best”: perfect in sphericity and luster, the true orient pearl.
2 Anatári, “follower”: failing slightly in sphericity and luster.
3 Masanku or Masaku: badly colored pearls, usually gray, symmetrical,
and with luster.
4 Kaiyéral, “the clasp of a necklace”: a dark-colored treble pearl, not
quite round.
5 Machchakai.

Page 427

6 Vadivu, “beauty,” also “decreasing”: that which is strained or sifted;
found in the 100, 200, and 400 sieves. These small pearls, regular in
shape, and of good luster, are especially favored in the East.
7 Madanku, “folded,” or “bent”: all pearls of vadivu size that are
imperfect in form or color.
8 Kǔrǔval, “short”: deformed and double pearls; they may, however, be
of excellent luster. Ani Kǔrǔval: where two áni are fused together,
but so formed that if separate they would be perfectly spherical.
Písal Kǔrǔval: where several pearls of good luster and color are
fused partially and irregularly together. Pampara Kǔrǔval: a pearl
grooved regularly, like a top.
9 Kalippu, “abundance,” or “rejected”: inferior to Anatári; a good pearl,
may be lens-shaped or elongated; usually flattened.
10 Písal, “torn”: a deformed pearl or cluster of small misshapen pearls; of
poor color and of little value.
11 Kurál: very misshapen and small.
12 Túl, “powder”: the seed-pearls, those retained by the 600, 800, and
1000 sieves.
In addition to the above designations, the following are also used:
Samadiam: a pearl of a reddish hue; pear-shaped but of dull color.
Nimelai: a nose-pearl, perfect skinned, and pear- or egg-shaped.
Sirippu: a pearl grooved with irregular wrinkle-like furrows.
Kodai, “brown”: like a nut, with no nacreous luster; formed of prismatic
shell; may be large, is usually spherical, and includes pearls of various
colors. This name is also used for white pearls with black or brown
marks. Van Kodai: a kodai pearl with one side nacreous. Karunk Kodai:
a black or blue-black slag-like pearl.
Masi-túl, “ink-dust,” or “chalk-powder”: smaller than the 1000 sieve.
Generally used for medicinal purposes, or burnt and eaten with areca-
nut and betel by the natives.

Page 428

Oddu—or Ottumuttu, “shell-pearl”: an attached pearl or nacreous
excrescence on the outside of the shell.
Of the twelve classes named above, the first four are known as the
chevvǔ, or superior classes; the next three as the vadivu, or beautiful
classes; and the last five as the kalan̄ chǔ, or inferior classes. The chevvǔ
pearls are found only in the first four sieves or baskets; and for this reason
these are known as the chevvǔ peddi or “chevvǔ baskets,” although they
may also retain inferior pearls. A name used to indicate the class of pearls
found in the first four sieves is mel or melmuttu, “upper” or “superior
pearl,” while vadivu designates those retained by the next three and túl
those of the last three.
After the pearls have been graded according to size and classified
according to quality, they are weighed. The unit of weight is the manchádi,
the seed of Abrus precatorius, a small, red berry of practically uniform
weight when ripe. H. W. Gillman of the Ceylon Civil Service reports the
weight of the man̄ chádi to be 3.35 grains troy. Fractional parts of a unit are
obtained by using a berry called kundumani, grains of rice, etc., whose
weights have been determined beforehand. A brass weight—the kalan̄ chǔ—
is also employed; it equals 67 grains or 20 man̄ chádi.
However, choice pearls—those of the superior classes—are not valued in
this manner, but at so much per chevvǔ of their weight, which is three
fourths of the square of the weight in man̄ chádi. Thus, to find the value of
an anatári pearl in the second sieve, if the weight be found to be three
man̄ chádi, three fourths of the square of three, or 6¾, is multiplied by the
base value of the anatári class.
The actual process of the calculation of value is as follows: owing to the
small size of the pearls, many fractions enter into the computations; to
preserve uniformity it is customary to increase all fractions so that each
may have 320 as a denominator, this being a common multiple of those that
ordinarily arise in chevvǔ calculations. The weight in man̄ chádi of the
pearls is increased to a fractional figure having 320 as a denominator. Three
fourths of the square of the numerator of this fraction is divided by the
number of pearls, and this quotient is divided twice consecutively by 320,
giving the chevvǔ of the weight. The market value then follows from the
quoted price of the pearls per chevvǔ at the time.

Page 429

In actual practice, these computations are not made; but each merchant
provides himself with sets of tables showing the calculations for different
weights, analogous to the use of interest tables by bankers, or of tables of
logarithms by surveyors. Some of the merchants commit these tables to
memory, and at times may be heard reciting them quietly to themselves to
refresh the memory.
If a pearl of a particular grade and class is of exceptional merit, the
merchant adds somewhat to the money value computed by the above
process. This applies especially to double pearls of the kǔrǔval class, which
sometimes consist of two fine bouton pearls suitable for setting, but not for
stringing.
Pearls of one of the inferior or kalan̄ chǔ classes are valued by simple
weight, at so much per kalan̄ chǔ, the market price, of course, differing for
pearls of the various classes. The weight having been ascertained, each in
its class as before noted, the value is determined by multiplying that weight
by the current market price per unit of such pearls, at so many rupees per
kalan̄ chǔ.

NECKLACE CONTAINING
126,000 SEED-PEARLS.
LOUIS XVI PERIOD

Property of an American lady

Page 430

The star pagoda is used in calculating the values. This small gold coin
was current in south India in the early part of the last century. In the
computations it is considered to be worth three and a half rupees, although
its intrinsic value as a gold coin is about six rupees.
It is considered probable that the London syndicate,[400] which has lately
leased the Ceylon pearl fisheries for a period of twenty years, will do away
with the complicated calculations employed for so many generations,
surviving all changes of administration, Portuguese, Dutch, and British.
This is only one of the many instances showing the tendency of the British
Government to abolish time-honored usages in India, without regard to the
wishes of its population; and, unimportant as many of these changes may
seem to us, they all serve to foster a spirit of discontent that may lead to
serious trouble. This conduct on the part of Great Britain is all the stranger
in view of the stubborn opposition of that country to the adoption of the
scientific and logical metric system.
In Bombay, the weight of pearls in tanks is made the basis of their
valuation; the tank equals 24 ratti or about 72 grains troy. The square of the
number of tanks is multiplied by 330 and the quotient divided by the
number of pearls; this gives the number of chevvǔs, or chows, as they are
sometimes called, and the market price of the chevvǔs for a given class of
pearls shows their value. If, for instance, we have 56 pearls of a certain
quality, weighing 5 tanks, and the chevvǔs of these pearls is worth 14
rupees, the sum would be as follows:

5 × 5 × 330 × 14
= 2062.5 rupees, or about $825.
56

In this case, as in the other system of weighing which we have mentioned,
the chevvǔs is only a nominal weight; but there is in India a real weight unit
which bears this name.[401]
The high esteem in which the pearl was held by the Hindus is well
illustrated by the following statement from an old treatise on gems: “A pearl
weighing two kalan̄ jas (about 180 grains) should not be worn even by
kings. It is for the gods, it is without equal.”[402]

Page 431

An interesting account of a great savant’s experience, in the early part of
the sixteenth century, regarding the value of pearls, is given by Guillaume
Budé[403] (1467–1540), the celebrated French Hellenist who lived during the
reign of Francis I and who is regarded as the founder of the College de
France. In his work entitled “De Asse,” he states that he once inquired of a
gem dealer in Paris whether the latter could recall the weight of some
remarkable pearl which had passed through his hands. The dealer replied
that he had seen one weighing 30 carats (120 grains), whereupon another
gem dealer, who was present, remarked that he had in his possession one of
40 carats (160 grains). This pearl was sold a few days later for 3000 gold
crowns ($6750). On another occasion Budé was told that a pearl of
exquisite beauty weighing 30 carats, had been sold to the Duchesse de
Bourbon, daughter of Louis XI of France, for the sum of 4000 gold crowns
($9000).
In regard to the manner of computing the value of pearls Budé writes: “I
think the ratio of these prices can be calculated. When I asked a gem dealer
what was the value of a pearl of four carats [sixteen grains], according to
the formula, he replied: ‘I have seen such a pearl sell for thirty gold crowns
[$67.50].’ Whereupon I asked: ‘How much would you estimate one
weighing eight carats [thirty-two grains]?’ ‘At least two hundred gold
crowns [$450],’ he answered; and as I continued to ply him with questions,
gradually increasing the weight, he responded in such a way that I could
understand that the increase of the price bore not a numerical, but a
proportional relation to the weight; so that the above mentioned eight-carat
pearl, having double the weight of a four-carat pearl, was valued at seven
times as much. The same was true of a pearl weighing twelve carats, twenty
carats, and so on; the price augmenting by a greater and greater increment
as the weight increased.”
In the “Coronae Gemma Noblissima” of Wilhelmus Eo (1621, pp. 32,
33), an instance is given of the rapid changes that are possible in the worth
of a pearl. A large and beautiful pearl was brought to Nuremberg by a
merchant who had paid 500 florins for it; he soon found a purchaser among
the merchants there, who was willing to pay him 800 florins. This latter
merchant in his turn disposed of his gem for 1000 florins, and shortly after
it again changed hands twice, the first time at an advance of 200 florins and
the second at an advance of 300 florins. All this happened within a few
days. The writer tells us that the last purchaser, who paid 1500 florins for

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the pearl, took it with him to Venice “where the wealthy dames wear a great
treasure of beautiful pearls as necklaces upon their bare skin, and he will
not have lost anything on his pearl there.”
In 1884, Mr. Edwin Streeter was asked by a member of a London
syndicate to proceed to the East, to value a large quantity of jewels, as a
heavy sum of money was about to be advanced to a certain Power, to
provide the sinews of war. On his way he was requested to stop at one of
the principal towns in Germany to purchase some jewels which had been
valued for probate but were not easy of sale in that market. The valuation
paper was shown to him, and after examining the ornaments, he agreed to
take them at the prices named. Among them was an old gold brooch of
Russian manufacture, valued at £4; in the center of this brooch was what
appeared to be a piece of hematite, but was in reality a fine, round, black
pearl, weighing 77 grains. The color had faded from exposure to the sun.
This pearl was brought to London, and the outer layer was taken off, when a
perfect black pearl of 67 grains was uncovered. This was sold to a
manufacturing jeweler in London for £400; but, having heard that in Paris
there was a pearl that would exactly match it, Mr. Streeter bought it back
again for £600, and then sold it at a large profit to one of the Paris crown
jewelers, who, in his turn, sold the pair to a rich iron merchant for 50,000
francs (£2000 or $10,000). Since then the sum of 100,000 francs (£4000 or
$20,000) has been refused for this pair of matchless black pearls. At present
values they may be worth double this sum.
At different times the values assigned to the different forms and colors of
pearls have varied. For instance, in the French Encyclopédie of 1774 (Vol.
XII, p. 385), it is stated that pear-shaped pearls, although they might be
equally perfect and of the same weight as round pearls, were valued much
less than these. Even in the case of well-matched pairs, their price was a
third less than that of round pearls.
As early as the sixteenth century it was not uncommon that jewelers who
had in their possession a fine pear-shaped pearl would have a replica of it
molded in lead, and then send the casts to the large cities of Europe and the
East. If a mate was found for it, the respective owners soon came to terms,
for such pearls command a much higher price together than they do
separately.

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An interesting story is told of no less a collector than the Duke of
Brunswick, who was so generous to the city of Geneva. For many years
every pear-shaped pearl from every land had been submitted to him for
examination. He always claimed the privilege of examining it alone for a
moment or two and in every instance he returned it. At last a new pear-
shaped pearl of marvelous size and beauty was heard of in a distant country.
It was sent to Germany, where the duke was visiting at that time, to a local
dealer who acted as agent for the owner. The price demanded for it seemed
excessive, but the duke took the pearl, stepped aside for a moment, and
said, quick as a flash, “The pearl is mine.” The next day he showed it with a
mate he had owned for many years and that was a most faultless match.
Through all the years of his search he had never informed any one of his
intention to match the pearl he already owned.
In 1879, at the time of the death of the father of Sultan Buderuddin of the
Sulu Islands, a box of large and fine pearls was among the treasures he left
behind him. Many of these disappeared, but some of them came into the
hands of Sultan Buderuddin and his mother. The former sold those which he
had inherited, in order to defray the expenses of a pilgrimage to Mecca, in
1882. His mother, who exerted a great influence over the conduct of affairs,
retained a number of the pearls, and it was always difficult to induce her to
part with any of them. When, as very rarely happened, she was persuaded to
do so, she invariably got a higher price for them than they would have
commanded in London, because she was never anxious to sell, and always
said: “Why should I sell my pearls? If the Spaniards come to attack us, I
can put them in a handkerchief and go into the hills; but if I had dollars I
should need a number of men to carry them.” We do not yet know what
became of the stolen pearls.
Many times has a dealer put nearly all that he possessed into a fine pearl
or necklace, frequently without a reward; often gradually buying more and
more, hoping for some great patron to relieve him. When the client appears,
there is happiness, but when he does not, there is woe. This instance is well
illustrated when Philip IV of Spain asked of the merchant Gogibus: “How
have you ventured to put all your fortune into such a small object?”
“Because I knew there was a king of Spain to buy it of me,” was the quick
reply. And Philip rewarded the faith of the jeweler by purchasing the pearl.
Caire and Dufie[404] state:

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We need have no fear that either the price or the use of pearls will diminish when we consider the
great demand for them both on account of luxury and superstition. There is no Hindu who does not
regard it as a matter of religion that he should pierce at least one pearl on the occasion of his
marriage. This must be a new pearl which has never been perforated. Whatever may be the
mysterious signification, this very ancient usage is, at least, very useful for the commerce of pearls.
In 1898, one of the writers had a long talk with his late chief, who had, at
that time, devoted sixty years of his life to the jewelry profession. In the
course of the conversation the latter remarked: “It seems to me that pearls
are too dear”; to which the writer rejoined: “Have pearls ever gone down in
price during your entire connection with the jewelry profession?” The
answer was: “No, they have always advanced.” Whereupon the writer said:
“I can give you statistics for two hundred years preceding your earliest
experience, which prove that pearls constantly advanced in value during
that period.”
The following are the names given to the different kinds of pearls,
according to their origin.
The term “oriental” designates those pearls that are found in the true
pearl-oyster, and have a marine or salt-water origin, being found either in
the ocean or one of its adjacent tributaries, and belonging to one of the
numerous species of the Margaritiferæ.
The term “fresh-water” is given to those pearls that are found in the
fresh-water brooks, rivulets, rivers, or fresh-water lakes, and not in salt
water, and which belong to the Unionidæ.
The term “conch” is applied to that variety of pearl which is usually pink,
or yellow, in color, and that is either found in the univalve shell, known as
the common conch (Strombus gigas), or in the yellow shell (Cassis
madagascarensis).
The word “clam pearl” is used to designate those pearls that are found in
the common clam of the Atlantic coast, and are either black, dark purple,
purple, or mixed with white, more especially if they are boiled.
“Placuna pearl” designates those pearls that are found in the Placuna, or
window-glass shell, in the East. They have a micaceous luster, are rarely of
much value, and are sold entirely in the Orient, almost exclusively for
medicinal purposes.
“Oyster pearl” signifies those concretions that are found in the common
edible oyster (Ostrea). They are generally black, purple, or with a mixture

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of black and white, or purple and white. They are devoid of nacreous luster
and possess neither beauty nor value.
“Coque de perle” designates the globuse walls of the nautilus and
possibly other shells that have a pearly nacre; they are almost hemispherical
and are either round or long, having a pearly effect.
“Abalone”: a name applied to those pearls that are found in the univalve
“ear-shell” or awabi, as it is called in Japan. They are generally green, blue-
green, or fawn-yellow, and have an intense red, flame-like iridescence.
They are rarely round, generally flat, or irregular, and are occasionally
worth several hundreds of dollars each.
“Pinna pearls”: those pearls that are found in the Pinna, or wing-shells of
the Mediterranean and adjacent seas. These possess no orient, but are more
highly crystalline than any other pearls. They are almost translucent and
have a peculiar red or yellow color, and are of little value except locally.
“Cocoanut pearl”: this name is given to those pearls that are found in the
giant oyster or clam of the vicinity of Singapore; they are erroneously
called cocoanut pearls because they have the appearance of the meat of the
cocoanut. They are often of great size, but have no commercial value.
The following are special designations of the different varieties of pearls
according to their forms and appearance:
Paragon: this term was formerly used to designate large and
exceptionally perfect or beautiful pearls, usually weighing over one
hundred grains.
Round: when the pearl is absolutely spherical, as if turned on a lathe,
without any flattening or any indentations on the sides.
Button or Bouton: if the pearl is domed on top and has either a flat or
slightly convex back.
Pear-shaped: when the pearl is formed like a pear, terminating in a point,
and is either flat at the lower end or rounded.
Drop-shaped: when the pearl is elongated like a pear, but is larger at the
lower end than a pear-shaped pearl.
Egg-shaped: when ovate in form, rounded more or less at each end, or
formed like an egg.

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Cone-shaped: applied to pearls that are elongated and rounded with one
flat end, and have the form of a cone.
Top-shaped: a name given to those pearls that are broad, flattened at the
top and rounded on the sides, terminating in a point, like a top.
Seed-pearls is a name given to pearls that are round or irregular, and
weigh one fourth grain or even less. They are frequently so small that
18,000 are contained in a single ounce, and they are often sent from the
East in bunches of about a dozen or so of strings.
Dust-pearls. When seed-pearls are very small they are known as “dust-
pearls”; they are really as fine as dust and have very little value; still, their
form is in many cases wonderfully perfect.
Petal pearls are those which are somewhat flat, frequently more pointed
at one end than at the other, and have the appearance of a petal or leaf.
Hinge pearls are those pearls that are long, generally pointed at either or
both ends, and are found near the hinge part of the shell. They are divided
into two distinct forms, namely dog-tooth, and wing-shaped.
Wing pearls: those that are elongated or irregular, resembling a wing or
part of a wing.
Dog-tooth: applied to pearls with pointed ears, elongated, and which are
narrower than the wing pearls.
Slugs: a name used for the very irregular, distorted pearls, frequently
made up of masses or groups of small pearls; usually without luster or form,
and of little value except for medicinal purposes.
Nuggets: when the pearls are somewhat round, but are indented or
slightly irregular.
Haystacks: when the pearls are either round or oval, with the top
considerably elevated.
Turtlebacks: when the pearls are a trifle longer than they are wide, with a
domed surface not much elevated. This form is quite prevalent among
American pearls.
Strawberry pearls: those that are round or elongated and entirely covered
with prickly points, somewhat resembling a strawberry or pickle. It is
believed that these irregular marks are frequently produced by minute
pearls.

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“Blister” and “Chicot” are names applied to those pearls that are found
embedded within a nacreous coating, often containing mud, water, or
imperfect mother-of-pearl. After these “blisters,” as they are termed, are
broken, and layer after layer has been removed from the contents, very fine
pearls have frequently been found.
Peelers: a term applied to pearls having imperfect surfaces or skins that
may have some inner layers which are perfect. Pearls having opaque bands
or rings are rarely peeled with much success as this opaque layer frequently
extends to some depth.
Cylindrical pearls: for pearls that have the form of a cylinder, being
elongated and flattened at each end.
Hammer pearls: when pearls are long and somewhat rounded and assume
the shape of a hammer or barrel. These are rounded or domed at the side
and flattened at the ends.
Baroque (Wart pearls in German): when pearls are not of any perfect
form such as round, pear, ovate, or any regular form, they are termed
baroque, and this term covers a large class of varieties, such as all that
follow (except seed- and half-pearls).
Double, triple, or twin pearls are those that are made up of two or more
pearls united together in a single nacreous coating, showing, however, that
they are still separate pearls.
Monster pearls: this name was formerly applied to very large, irregular,
pearly masses which either resembled some animal or were adapted to form
the head, trunk, or other part of an animal: these are also occasionally called
“Paragons.”
Bird’s-eye: a name used for a pearl that has dull spots, giving it the
appearance of a bird’s-eye.
“Ring-a-round” is a term applied to such pearls as are black, brown, pink,
or white, and have a circle running around the pearl itself of some
distinctive contrasting color, as white on black, pink on brown or black on
white.
Embedded pearls are those that are partly or entirely surrounded by
mother-of-pearl, having been enveloped and passed outward from the
interior of the shell by the mollusk so that in time the pearl would have been
lost on the outside of the shell. These embedded pearls are occasionally

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found in the manufacture of mother-of-pearl articles. When the mother-of-
pearl is split, the pearl will fall out from between the layers.
Half-pearls is the name given to such pearls as are round and spherically
domed, and are either somewhat flat or almost the shape of one half of a
whole pearl of the same diameter. They are usually made by cutting off the
best part of a hemispherical bright spot from a large irregular pearl;
frequently two to four cuttings are made from the bright spots of a single
pearl, each of the cuttings having the appearance of half a pearl.
The so-called Indian pearls have a faint rosy tint with much orient. These
are generally pearls from the Ceylonese fisheries that are sold from the
Bombay side. The term “Madras white” describes the whiter varieties, there
being a preference for these in Madras, while the rosy, yellow, and darker
shades are favored in Bombay.
Australian pearls are generally a pure waxy white and lustrous, often
with a silver-white sheen, extremely brilliant and beautiful.
Nearly all the Venezuela and Panama pearls have a faint golden-yellow
tint, very often extremely lustrous, and are especially desired by the darker
skinned people and brunettes.
The preference at various times has varied with different peoples: in
China and India, golden-yellow and satin-yellow pearls are preferred; from
Panama we have the very white; in Bombay the yellow pearls from the
Persian Gulf are highly appreciated.
Yellow pearls from other shells than the pearl-oyster are frequently
offered for sale in the East, where they are greatly appreciated, although
they find little favor in England. Some of these pearls are attributed to the
pearly nautilus (Nautilus pompilius). This may be the case with those that
have a pearly luster, but those that have the appearance of porcelain, and are
as bright as polished china, are certainly not from this shell, but evidently
from the large Melo or other shells of that character. Some may come from
the large conch (Cassis madagascarensis). A yellow pearl, very perfect in
form and color, and weighing more than one hundred grains, was shown at
the Paris Exposition of 1889 and was valued at 50,000 francs.
Wonderful golden-yellow pearls with a saffron tint are unusually lustrous
and beautiful. One of the most remarkable pearls of this character is of a
brilliant golden-yellow color which belongs to an American lady, and

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weighs 30½ grains. These pearls are from Shark’s Bay, West Australia, and
only a limited number of them are found annually.
Black pearls do not seem to have been regarded with any favor by the
ancients, and we find no mention of them by medieval writers. Only fifty
years ago a perfectly round, black pearl, weighing 8 grains, was sold for £4
($20); to-day this pearl would easily bring £100 ($500). Empress Eugenie,
the wife of Napoleon III, may be said to have brought them into favor; she
owned a splendid necklace of black pearls which was sold at Christie’s,
after the fall of Napoleon, for the sum of £4000 ($20,000). Some time later,
the Marquis of Bath bought, at Christie’s, the pearl which formed the clasp
of the necklace, paying £1000 ($5000) for it; he destined it for the center of
a bracelet.
Greenish-black pearls are perhaps valued higher than any other colored
pearls, if they have the proper orient; this is probably partly owing to their
rarity. A bluish-black pearl possessing a fine orient commands almost the
same price as a pure black pearl. Those which are found in the Placuna
placenta are often of a dull gray hue, while those produced by the Pinna
squamosa are generally brown in color.
Baroque pearls were formerly much worn and appreciated in Spain and
Poland. Their price varies greatly, according to their size, their beauty, and
also to their scarcity in any particular place. The pieces of pearl detached
from the shells—often half-pearl and half mother-of-pearl, and called “de
fantaisie”—are always very irregular in form, and sometimes offer a certain
resemblance to a part of the human or animal form.[405]
How is it that such quantities of jewels are continually brought from the
East, and such a wealth of them continues to exist there, when there are
now no very extensive mines that maintain a constant supply? The reason is
that from time immemorial, precious stones have been the form in which
wealth, in those lands, has been hoarded and preserved. Until very recently,
in the Orient, interest-bearing securities have been unknown; and hence
jewels have been sought and kept as an investment, and sold only when
money was needed for special purposes, as in times of war, famine, or other
emergency.
Their small bulk made them easy to conceal and to transport, and hence
they were well adapted for such use. How long this condition will last, is
perhaps dependent only upon the introduction of interest-paying

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investments, and of the new forms of Western civilization that involve
greater expenses and require means of income in excess of the older and
simpler conditions.
The wealth of jewels possessed by Oriental monarchs, notables, and
dealers, has been the theme of story and tradition, time out of mind. We of
the West have been disposed to regard these tales as largely exaggerated,
and to some extent they may be; yet any one who has witnessed an
important social function or state occasion where East Indian rajahs and
nabobs are present, knows that the profusion of jewels which they wear is
simply astounding to our Western eyes. These objects represent, moreover,
the gatherings of generations and centuries; they are heirlooms and
ancestral treasures, priceless to their owners as the pride of their houses;
handed down from fathers to sons in long succession; and they have also
the investment feature already noted, in that whenever necessity arises they
can be turned into available funds.
The manner of keeping and of selling such objects is also different from
ours. If it be a question of buying gems from an Eastern owner, the best are
never shown first, but on the contrary, the most inferior. The purchaser must
either be content with these, or else must prove clearly that he is a
substantial buyer or evince a knowledge and appreciation that mark him as
a judge of such objects. The order in which they are produced is, first the
poorest, then successively, poor, medium, fair, good, fine, and at last the
rare and wonderful prizes.
In visiting an Oriental dignitary, his jewel-treasures are not all shown at
once, as at an American reception or an Indian durbar, or even as a collector
or connoisseur among us exhibits his cabinet, arranged for choice display.
The method is far different. The visitor may be shown a few objects in the
first day or hour; perhaps a few more later in the day; some on the next day
or the one following, and so on; and he may remain a guest for weeks, and
never see all, or the finest of the jewels belonging to his host. When they
are produced, moreover, they are not in iron caskets or in gold or silver
jewel-cases, covered or lined with fine leather or with silk or satin. On the
contrary, they are often in old ginger jars, shabby boxes, tin cans, and all
sorts of unsightly or unpromising receptacles, which, when placed between
the owner and his guest, may well cause the latter to wonder. Nor is his
surprise lessened as the wrappings are unfolded, one after another, perhaps

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a dozen old cloths, until the piece of jewelry or the splendid pearl is at last
brought to view, after having been hidden from sight in its manifold
wrappings for months or perhaps for years.
But this method of keeping such treasures is not in reality so strange as it
appears. There are none of the provisions that we have for the responsible
safe-guarding of investments or valuable objects,—no fire-proof safes, no
banks, no deposit-vaults. Security is best attained by concealment in
unattractive and improbable receptacles, and by dividing and distributing
the treasured objects. The owner, too, must learn to know his visitor quite
well before he exhibits to him all, or the best, that he possesses. Hence the
oriental method, though so peculiar to us, has been the best adapted to the
conditions among those peoples.

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Seed-pearls and gold; Chinese ornaments of the nineteenth
century

Complete set of seed-pearl jewelry in original case

New York, 1860

As an illustration of the interest taken by Oriental potentates in the
collection of jewels, we quote an instance from Marco Polo, who, centuries
ago, wrote the following:[406] “Several times every year the King of Maabar
sends his proclamation through the realm that if any one who possesses a
pearl or stone of great value will bring it to him, he will pay for it twice as

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much as it cost. Everybody is glad to do this, and thus the King gets all into
his own hands, giving every man his price.”
Great quantities of pearls, the result of centuries of accumulation, and
exceeding in splendor the collections of the present day, must have been
garnered up in many cities of the Orient during the period of their
prosperity. But these cities have disappeared, wrecked and ruined by fire
and sword, and no vestige of their former wealth remains with them. Their
treasures have been looted, hoarded, buried, or scattered to the four ends of
the Orient, frequently finding their way in former times to Europe, but now
more often to America, where fine gems always find a generous buyer.
In Syria, and some of the Oriental countries, until recently, and perhaps at
the present time, it has been the custom, when a native wished to embark in
the pearl business, for him to allow himself to drift gradually into a state of
vagrancy, becoming a veritable tramp for fully a year. Then, with the money
that he had himself or that which was supplied by his backer, he would visit
the pearl fisheries and shrewdly acquire the gems to the best advantage,
returning again as a vagrant; for if it were known at any point along the
route that he carried with him sums of money his life would be in jeopardy,
and he would probably never reach the fisheries; or, if he did, the chances
are that he would never return. This may remind us of Marco Polo’s old
coat, in which he had concealed some valuable gems, the gift of the Grand
Khan. His wife heedlessly gave the coat to a beggar and it was only
regained by a clever stratagem.
The product of the pearl fisheries, either that of entire fisheries where
they are managed by a company, or the gatherings of merchants, or even the
single gems which may be acquired by the smaller merchants, all these
usually find their way to the great markets, although occasionally they
change hands at once. In the East they are sent either to Bombay, Calcutta,
Madras or Colombo; frequently they are intended for a higher market.
Many of them remain in the East, for in the East to-day a fine pearl is as
much prized as ever, and there are those who love pearls as much as did the
King of Maabar in the time of Marco Polo. However, the world over, there
is a feeling that if things are sent to the greatest market there will be an
opportunity for disposing of them at the greatest price. Therefore, the larger
number of parcels of exceptionally fine pearls are sent to the London
market, a few of them going to Paris, the cable, often within a few days

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after their arrival, informing the sender of the acceptance or rejection of a
parcel, or of a new offer which is often accepted. In this market they are
acquired by the dealers, who frequently exhibit many times before the lot is
purchased.
Pearls from a fishery are in many cases of mixed quality; that is to say,
they are of different sizes and varying grades of perfection as regards skin,
color, and orient. These parcels are often sold directly on offers to dealers,
but generally they are sold by brokers who show the various parcels to the
dealers, each of the latter in turn making his offer on that portion of the
parcel which is of most value to him. Thus a single dealer may want one
pearl, a dozen, or even twenty or more, to complete a great necklace, or else
to add to, or improve the necklace, by better graduation or by increasing the
evenness of the color. When the broker receives enough offers to give him
the desired price for the entire parcel, the sale is consummated, and each
one who has made an offer and who has sealed his particular parcel until his
offer is accepted or rejected, receives his portion. Pearls do not grow in the
form of necklaces, although they are frequently seen in this form only, and
to create a large necklace means not only the use of the pearls of one fishery
alone, but it often requires a selection from pearls of various sizes, the
product of many fisheries.
It is needless to say that even the shrewdest dealers do not always
succeed in their purchases of lots which are to be broken up when the
proper number of bids are obtained.
When the pearl revival came in 1898 there was a sudden and rapid
upward tendency in the prices, because at that time, in England, money
could be borrowed upon a very low rate of interest—as low as 3 per cent.,
—and it was a temptation to a number of young men to enter as dealers into
the pearl trade. The result was that a number of new stocks were created,
not for a regular, but for a speculative demand, and this tended to advance
the price spasmodically, rather than gradually, as it would have risen by
regular consumption. However, when the foreign market became higher, the
demand for pearls was not as great as had been anticipated, and there was a
sudden adjustment of prices and a readjustment of the pearl stocks,
resulting in the elimination of a certain number of speculative dealers; and,
notwithstanding the state of the fisheries, pearls have not advanced so
rapidly in the past two years as they did from 1898 to 1905.

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More than go per cent. of the pearls of commerce, whether they are
round, perfect, half- or seed-pearls, are of oriental origin; that is, pearls
from the true pearl-oyster. About 8 per cent. are probably from the fresh-
water mussels, three fourths of which are from the United States.
American fresh-water pearls have had many prejudices to overcome,
often because of the natural indifference in regard to anything that is found
at home or is easily obtainable. It has been said that, in comparison with
foreign pearls, they had less specific gravity; that they were not so hard, and
that their luster was not as good. It is certain, however, that the skin is
generally smooth, and although they may not have so peculiar an orient,
their brilliancy equals that of any known pearls. Sometimes they are
translucent and either pink or of a faintly bluish tint, like molten silver.
More frequently their hue is white, rose, pale yellow, or pale copper,
deepening to copper red until they resemble the most intense and highly
polished copper button.
According to the estimates of the value of European fresh-water pearls
given by seventeenth and eighteenth century writers, their worth was
considered to be one half that of oriental pearls of approximately the same
quality. Few European pearls, we feel sure, were ever found that possessed
the wonderful beauty and brilliancy of the pearls found either in the Miami
or the Mississippi and its many tributaries.
So great a quantity of the poorer quality of pearls have been found,
principally in the Mississippi Valley, that a foreign dealer has bought 30,000
ounces of baroque pearls at $1 an ounce, and of the slightly better grades
fully 100,000 dollars’ worth were obtained in the year 1906. The
exportation was strictly limited to the poorer qualities. When pearls are
worth from $1 to $6 a grain and upward, they are rarely sent abroad, as the
regular pearls of this quality are much appreciated by Americans, and find a
ready sale in the United States. The poor pearls above mentioned were
principally sent to New York, either from the local fishermen, or else
through the dealers in sweet-water shells, in lots of a fraction of an ounce,
or in bags weighing a number of pounds. Thirty thousand ounces would
equal 18,180,000 grains.
After all the fine pearls have been selected—buttons, baroques, turtle-
backs, haystacks, wings, petals and other pearls that can be used in any way
as a jewel on this side of the water—the balance of the material is sold by

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the ounce, varying in price from $1 to $5. These are shipped to Germany,
France, and Austria, where they are again selected for cheaper forms of
jewelry than are made in the United States. Of these pearls the baroques and
slugs go mainly to Germany, while the somewhat finer ones are sent to
France, where they are used in artistic but inexpensive work, such as
flowers and other imitative forms, and in art nouveau jewelry. Some, again,
are shipped to Algiers, Morocco, and Egypt, for the decoration of saddles,
garments, etc., and quantities go to India to be used for medicinal purposes.
In this way all the material is utilized and even the poorest is not wasted.
No better proof can be required of the wide-spread appreciation of the pearl
among all the races of mankind.
So extensive has become the finding of American pearls that great
quantities have been gathered together of all varieties. At the time of this
writing there are many large single lots of these pearls, slightly irregular,
and not of fine quality, but yet of sufficient regularity of size to be termed
baroques. At one time such quantities were gotten together that single
papers of pearls, weighing one fourth, one half, one, two or three grains
each, contained more than 10,000 grains, and quantities of the wing and
dog-tooth varieties weighing as much as 20,000 grains were inclosed in a
single paper.
So prolific has been the yield of these common American pearls that the
markets of Europe and Asia have almost been flooded with them. In 1906, a
single shipment of 3500 ounces, troy (equaling over 2,100,000 grains),
were sent abroad, at prices varying from $1 to $15 per ounce, according to
the quality. This alone would represent a worth of $30,000 at one time.
The turtleback is a form quite prevalent among American pearls, and they
are often matched in pairs slightly resembling each other and weighing
from 10 to 100 or more grains for each pair. Some of them are lustrous and
many are of very good color and regular in form. Although differing but
little in shape, they naturally are much less expensive than a finer formed
pearl, and many of them have been sold for link buttons, and more
especially for earscrews. Although they formerly sold for 50 cents a grain,
they are now held at from $1 to $8 per grain.
In regard to the prices of some of the finer American pearls, one of 15
grains, of wonderful brilliancy, luster, and perfection, was sold for more
than $2500–$166 a grain, or a base value of over $11 a grain. Two

Page 447

extraordinarily well-matched button pearls, weighing a trifle over 30 grains,
were held at about $3500, or $115 a grain, a base value of about $8 a grain.
At the time of this writing there are for sale in the United States a pair of
button earrings, almost round, not of absolutely perfect color, weighing
about 140 grains, the price being $6000; a round, slightly ovate pearl, not of
the finest color, weighing 85 grains, held at $3500; and a wonderful pearl
with a rich, faintly pink luster, round, but slightly button on each side,
weighing about 44 grains, and beautiful as are American pearls, is held at a
fanciful valuation of over $6000.
The cupidity of many of the American pearl finders and pearl dealers
cannot be exceeded even by that of the foreign pearl finder in any other
land, and this is shown by the variety of materials that from time to time are
sold to the unsuspecting public, or that are sent to pearl dealers in the large
cities. This is surprising and suggests either that the sender believes the
pearl dealers are not familiar with these deceptions, or else that he himself
has been imposed upon, and is innocent in his commercial deceit. Among
the notable examples are, first, spheres made out of the various shells, either
from a good part of the material or from hinge-material, or else from the
spot where the mussel is attached, these pieces of the shell being rounded
and polished; such spheres vary in color from white to pink or yellow, just
as the shell itself may have been colored. Second, the pupils of fish-eyes.
Third, imitation pearls. Fourth, yellow or brown translucent or transparent
masses of hinge-binding material having no greater hardness than horn, and
about the same appearance. The most interesting, however, are the
absolutely beautiful, smooth spheres of anthracite coal, which admits of a
rich polish and has a peculiar luster; these they attempt to pass off as black
pearls.
It is interesting to note that in Arkansas a negro sold a very valuable pearl
for a few dollars, under the persuasion of a white man, who, it is said,
resold the pearl for nearly a hundred times more than what he paid for it.
The local authorities investigated the matter; the case was brought to court,
and the negro received a large advance on the price that had originally been
paid him.
If a list were kept of the thousand and one different methods of wrapping
American pearls for shipment to the larger cities, it would show how much
ingenuity is displayed in environments that frequently differ very much

Page 448

from each other. A box that has contained the pills that relieved him of
fever, ague, and other ills due to swamps and damp climates, serves a
secondary purpose for the fortunate finder of a pearl in forming a receptacle
in which he can ship it to the greater market. Sometimes they are sewed in
leather cut from gloves and shoes, or in strips of cloth, generally of the
humbler varieties, such as calico or blue jean; in other cases they are
wrapped in tissue-paper and newspaper; and occasionally they are packed
in boxes made by hollowing out a bit of wood, a cover being nailed over the
opening. In almost every instance they have been treated with a certain
degree of care.
The majority of conch pearls which are carried by individuals to New
York, London, or Paris, are generally brought in small papers or bits of
cloth, each pearl being wrapped separately. Usually, there are a few white
ones, a few yellow, a few pale pink, occasionally a few of a very beautiful
rich pink, and once in a great while a fine, large pearl appears. Many of
these pearls, commonly the inferior ones, are sold in the West Indies
directly to the tourists who wish to purchase something in the country
through which they are traveling, with the result that better prices are
generally obtained than would have been secured if the pearls had been sent
to the great markets.
The tariff on pearls at present operative in the United States is so
indefinite as to have led to much serious misinterpretation and
misunderstanding, as well as to an endless chain of lawsuits, often resulting
in serious loss to the dealer or client who imports. As a consequence of the
enforced outlay of large sums for unexpected and additional duties, the
importer, who was both ready and willing to pay what seemed to him a just
duty, often found that, where he had quoted a price to a customer, he was a
loser by the transaction; and if, to escape this loss, he endeavors to dispute
the payment of the duty, he becomes involved in an expensive and
occasionally unsuccessful lawsuit. On the other hand, a private buyer who
has paid all that he feels he can afford at the time for a necklace, expecting
to pay a duty of 10 per cent. and interpreting the law to mean a duty of 10
per cent., may be called upon to pay a duty of 60 per cent., or have the
notoriety of a public lawsuit, because the pearls have been strung, or
because it is held that they had recently or at some former time been
assembled as a necklace. In other words, if the pearls constituting such a
necklace are bought at various times from various people, either here or in

Page 449

Europe, and not as a necklace, the duty is held to be 10 per cent., but if they
are sent in one shipment, a duty of 60 per cent. is levied. As it is held that
pearls assembled in the form of a necklace have a greater value than before
they were so assembled, the purchaser might naturally expect to pay the 10
per cent. duty on this higher value, but instead of this a 60 per cent. duty is
demanded on the higher assembled value.
The ambiguity of this clause of the tariff is such that a logical ruling
should be made by some superior official such as the Secretary of the
Treasury. As the law is now interpreted, a pearl worth $20,000 can be
brought in with a duty of 10 per cent.; the addition of a simple gold wire
makes it a piece of jewelry, with a duty of 60 per cent. It would seem that
an amendment might be made to the tariff by which an importer, whether a
private buyer or dealer, could be called upon to pay a 60 per cent. duty on a
high valuation of the setting of the ring, brooch, or jewel, such as $20, $25
or $50; while the contents of the ring or ornament, whether a pearl,
diamond, emerald, or a collection of stones, should pay a duty of only 10
per cent. This duty would sufficiently protect the jewelry industry, and
would at the same time prevent the levying of an unjust and unexpected
impost upon a fine pearl or gem of any kind.
It is eminently desirable that those residing in the United States who
purchase pearls in foreign countries, should, if possible, consult with the
United States consul in the city where they make their purchase, in case
they wish to bring the pearls into the United States. In this way a proper
declaration can be made, they will be correctly instructed as to the duties
upon the pearls, whether unstrung, strung, or set, and they will thus avoid
all complications when they reach the United States. Of course, this may
not be necessary should the firm with which they are dealing be able to
attend to the matter for them.
It must not be forgotten that the duty of 25 per cent. on precious stones,
which was imposed during Cleveland’s administration, was enacted for the
purpose of obtaining an increased revenue for the government, and there is
no doubt but that the time was one of great financial stress. Yet even with
the duty two and a half times as high as in the previous years, only a small
fraction was added to the income of the Government. But one adequate
explanation can be given of this remarkable decrease in the recorded
imports, more especially when we consider that legitimate dealers could, at

Page 450

that time, buy precious stones in New York City for less than it cost them to
purchase them abroad and pay the duty. It seems, therefore, that a 10 per
cent. rate is calculated to produce the best and most satisfactory results in
every way.
As examples of the difficulties encountered in the attempt to arrive at a
proper classification of pearls we cite the following cases which have been
the subjects of recent litigation: In 1901, two very valuable collections of
pearls were brought to this country. One of these consisted of 45 drilled
pearls weighing in all 672⅛ grains and entered at $60,734; the other, of 39
pearls, having an aggregate weight of 678¾ grains and entered at $63,070.
At first a duty of 20 per cent. ad valorem was imposed upon these pearls
under Section 6 of the Tariff Act, treating them as “unenumerated articles
partly manufactured,” according to the rule that had been followed since the
enactment of the present tariff. This was protested, and the case was
brought before the Board of Appraisers.[407] Subsequent to the protest,
however, the collector reliquidated the entry of the 45 pearls and imposed
upon them a duty of 60 per cent. ad valorem, as pearls set or strung. This
was done in view of Judge Lacombe’s decision in another notable case
which had been taken shortly before to the Circuit Court of Appeals.[408]
This decision was to the effect that pearls in any form not especially
covered by paragraphs 434 or 436 of the Tariff Act should be referred to
one or the other of those paragraphs, by similitude, according to the
provisions of Section 7 of the Act.
The testimony taken before the Board of Appraisers revealed the fact that
each of the collections of pearls had been inclosed in a handsome silk-lined
morocco case, with a groove running through the center; in this groove the
pearls were laid, the largest one in the middle and the others disposed on
either side, graduated according to their size; the row or series having the
effect of a necklace, although the pearls were unstrung. The importer
testified that this arrangement was only made in order to enable him to
judge of the size and quality of the pearls, and evidence was given showing
that it was necessary to rebore some of them and to ream out the holes
before any use could be made of the pearls in jewelry. Nevertheless, the
appraisers adhered to their opinion that these gems had been selected
especially to form a necklace, and that the time and labor requisite for the
assembling of a carefully matched and graduated series of pearls suitable
for a necklace constituted the main factor in its production, since the cost of

Page 451

stringing it was trifling; they, therefore, considered that such a series of
pearls was dutiable, by similitude, under paragraph 434 of the Tariff Act as
jewelry. An application was made to the Circuit Court of the Southern
District of New York for a review of the appraisers’ ruling,[409] the judge
decided against the petitioner,[410] and an appeal was then taken from his
decision. On December 12, 1904, the Circuit Court of Appeals decided that
the pearls were dutiable, by similitude, at 10 per cent. ad valorem, under
Section 7, paragraph 436, and the excess of duty collected was refunded.
Another case has to do with a collection of 37 pearls, entered at
$220,000, brought to New York in January, 1906. Duty to the amount of
$22,000 (10 per cent. ad valorem) was paid by the importer, but the entry
was liquidated at 60 per cent. and $110,000 additional duty demanded. This
was paid and a protest was made to the Board of General Appraisers, who
decided in favor of the petitioner. The Government appealed and the
case[411] was tried in the United States Circuit Court on February 24 of this
year (1908). It was shown that the pearls had been worn several times in
Paris as a necklace, but the defense held that, as they were loose when
imported and were not worth more collectively than separately, this was not
material. The judge decided for the Government and an appeal has been
taken in June, 1908.

Page 452

PERSIAN PRINCESS AND
LADIES IN WAITING

From a Persian illuminated
manuscript of the eighteenth
century, in the library of
Robert Hoe, Esq.

The proper classification of half-pearls has also been a matter of
controversy. This question was brought before the Board of General
Appraisers in New York on a protest[412] entered in 1897 against the
imposition of a duty of 20 per cent. on several lots of so-called half-pearls
imported during that year. This duty was imposed under Section 6 of the
Tariff Act, providing for a duty of 20 per cent. on “unenumerated partly
manufactured articles.” The petitioner claimed that half-pearls were
dutiable at 10 per cent. ad valorem, “either directly or by similitude or
component of chief value, under paragraph 436, or as precious stones,
under paragraph 435 of the Tariff Act.” After hearing the testimony of a
number of competent and reliable experts connected with some of the
leading houses dealing in precious stones and pearls, the appraisers decided
that the evidence showed that pearls, being the product of animal secretion,
could not properly be denominated stones, and that they were not in fact so
designated commercially. At the same time, half-pearls could not be looked
upon as “pearls in their natural state,” since time and labor had been
expended in their production; it was, therefore, evident that paragraph 436
did not apply to them. For this reason the original ruling was reaffirmed.

Page 453

In 1902 a duty of 60 per cent. was levied on an assorted lot of half-pearls
under a new ruling which brought them by similitude under the provisions
of paragraph 434 of the Tariff Act, providing a duty of 60 per cent. on
“jewelry ... including ... pearls set or strung.” A protest was entered against
this ruling also.[413] In the meanwhile Judge Lacombe had given the opinion
to which we have alluded above, and the Board of Appraisers upheld the
duty of 60 per cent., basing their decision upon the fact that the material of
half-pearls was similar to that of pearls in their natural state or of pearls set
or strung, thus satisfying the requirements as to similitude of Section 7 of
the Tariff Act. The same section provides that, in case two or more rates of
duty shall be applicable to any imported article, it shall pay duty at the
highest rate, and therefore the 60–per cent. rate applying to pearls set or
strung was imposed, instead of the 10–per cent. rate on pearls in their
natural state. In both of these cases an application for a review was made to
the United States Circuit Court.[414]

Page 454

DUTIES ON PEARLS IN VARIOUS COUNTRIES, MARCH, 1908

Amount in
money of the U. S.
Basis. country. currency.
Great Britain Free
British India Free
Australia Free
New Zealand Free
Canada, precious stones (pearls), polished but
not set, pierced, or otherwise manufactured ad val. 10%
Austro-Hungary, unset 100
kilogr. 60 kr. $24.00
Belgium, unenumerated.
Bulgaria, precious stones (pearls) in the natural
state, polished, cut, or engraved, but not
mounted kilogr. 75 lev (francs) 14.25
Denmark, unenumerated.
France Free
Germany, wrought (smoothed, polished, 100
perforated), unset kilogr. 60 marks 14.40
Unset, but strung on textile threads or tape for 100
the purpose of packing and transportation kilogr. 100 marks 24.00
Greece Free
Holland, unenumerated.
Italy, precious stones (pearls) wrought hectogr. 14 lire 2.66
Montenegro, precious stones (pearls) {min. 10%
ad val. {max. 15%
Norway, precious stones (pearls) {min. 250 krone .66
kilogr. {max. 3 „ .80
Portugal, unenumerated.
Portuguese S. E. Africa (Quilimane, Chinde and
Zambesia) Export Duty ad val. 6%
Portuguese India, real pearls or seed-pearls ad val. ½%
Rumania kilogr. 20 lei 3.80
Russia, loose or threaded funt 10 rubles 5.00
Finland Free
Servia, threaded for facilitating their
preservation or sale kilogr. 50 dinars 9.50
Threaded for special uses kilogr. 70 dinars 15.30
Spain, loose or mounted hectogr. 25 pesetas 4.75
Sweden, not set Free

Page 455

Switzerland, not mounted 100
kilogr. 50 francs 9.75
Turkey, unset gramme 3 piasters (gold)
Egypt (on all imports) ad val. 8%
China (on all unenumerated imports) ad val. 5%
Japan ad val. 60%
Persia, Export Duty ad val. 5%
Import Duty, precious stones, rough or cut,
including fine pearls ad val. 25%
Morocco (on all imports) ad val. 2½%
Guatemala, unenumerated.
Salvador, precious stones (pearls) unmounted 10 pesos, nom.
kilogr. val. 9.60
Nicaragua, precious stones (pearls) kilogr. 100 pesos, „ „ 96.00
Honduras ½ kilogr. 5 pesos, „ „ 4.80
Costa Rica, unset kilogr. 100 colones, „ „ 96.00
Panama ad val. 15%
Mexico, unset kilogr. 100 pesos, „ „ 96.00
United States, not strung, not set ad val. 10%
Strung, set, or not, and split pearls sorted as to
either size, quality, or shape ad val. 60%
Philippine, unset ad val. 15%
Argentine Republic, precious stones (pearls) ad val. 5%
Bolivia appraisal 3%
Brazil (natural) ad val. 2%
Chili ad val. 5%
Colombia, precious stones (pearls) set in
jewelry ad val. 10%
Ecuador, precious stones (pearls), set or not set 50 sucres, nom.
kilogr. val. 48.00
Paraguay, unset ad val. 2%
Peru, unset appraisal 3%
Uruguay 13% on eval of 1
gramme peso .12
Venezuela kilogr. 10 bolivars 1.90
Cuba, not set hectogr. $7.50
surtax of 25%
Dominican Republic ounce 6 pesos, nom. val. 5.76

The only changes from the customs lists as they existed in the tariffs of
1896 are as follows:

Page 456

1896 1908
Portugal 3% ad val. unenumerated
Mexico 50 pesos per carat 100 pesos per kilogram
Nicaragua 5 pesos per libra 100 pesos per kilogram
Haiti 20% ad val. unenumerated
San Domingo 3.60 pesos per ounce 6 pesos per ounce
Argentina 36 pesos per gram precious stones 5% ad val.
Austro-Hungary 24 florins per 100 kilogr. 60 kroner per 100 kilogr.

In the Parliament of 1727–1732, the duty on pearls and precious stones
was abolished in England. We give facsimiles of the title-page and last leaf
of the report of this enactment.

GEORGII II. REGIS Magnæ, Britanniæ, Franciæ, & Hiberniæ, SEXTO.
At the Parliament Begun and Holden at Westminster, the Twenty third Day
of January, Anno Dom. 1727. In the First Year of the Reign of our
Sovereign Lord GEORGE the Second, by the Grace of God, of Great
Britain, France, and Ireland, King, Defender of the Faith, &c. And from
thence continued by several Prorogations to the Sixteenth Day of January,
1732, being the Sixth Session of this present Parliament. LONDON, Printed
by John Baskett, Printer to the King’s most Excellent Majesty. 1732. 108
Anno Regni Sexto Georgii II. Regis. After 10 April, 1733, Diamonds and all
other precious Stones may be imported or exported free from Duty.

Page 457

Diamonds, precious Stones, Jewels, and Pearls of all Sorts, shall pass
outwards, without Warrant or Fee, may it therefore please your most
Excellent Majesty that it may be enacted, and be enacted by the King’s
most Excellent Majesty, by and with the Advice and Consent of the Lords
Spiritual and Temporal, and Commons, in this present Parliament
assembled, and by the Authority of the Same, That from and after the Tenth
Day of April, which shall be in the Year of our Lord One thousand seven
hundred and Thirty three, all Diamonds, Pearls, Rubies, Emeralds, and all
other precious Stones and Jewels, shall pass inwards without Warrant or
Fee, in the Manner as they now pass outwards, and free from the Payment
of any Duty granted to his Majesty, his Heirs, or Successors; and it shall
and may be lawful for any Person or Persons to import or export the same,
in the Ship or Vessel whatsoever; and Law, Custom, or Usage to the
contrary in any wise notwithstanding, subject nevertheless to the Proviso
herein after contained. Proviso as to the East India Company. Provided
always, That nothing herein contained shall extend to annul or make void
the Duty granted to his Majesty for the Use of the united Company of
Merchants of England trading to the East Indies, by an act passed in the
Ninth and Tenth Years of the Reign of his late Majesty King William the
Third, for such Pearls, Diamonds, and other precious Stones or Jewels, as
shall be imported into this kingdom from any Place within the Limits of the
Charter granted to the said Company, or to take away or alter any
Privileges, Profits, or Advantages, granted to or now held or enjoyed by the
said Company. FINIS.'
The total value of diamonds and precious stones imported into the United
States during the period from 1867 to 1906 inclusive, was as follows:

Glaziers’ (except 1873–83) $2,215,972
Dust 6,407,599
Rough or uncut (included with diamonds and other stones, 1891–96) 74,045,291
Set (not specified before 1897) 36,170
Unset (not specified before 1897) 124,615,662
Diamonds and other stones, not set 207,138,629
Set in gold or other metal 17,799
Pearls (from 1903) 7,809,261

Total $422,286,383

Page 458

CLASSIFIED STATEMENT OF THE IMPORTS OF PEARLS INTO THE UNITED
STATES FROM 1891 TO 1907 INCLUSIVE

Pearls Pearls, including pearls Pearls in natural state, not Pearls split
strung but not set strung or set etc.
Year 10% 10% 10% 20%
1891 $11,711
1892 32,023
1893 6,926
1894 12,978
1895 $283,018
1896 583,214
1897 392,867
1898 $491,060 $205,998
1899 1,412,952 389,899
1900 1,163,382 432,528
1901 929,247 1,173,339
1902 1,896,322 1,314,368
1903 2,835,936 7,220
1904 1,680,615 2,908
1905 1,626,476
1906 2,072,561 218
1907 1,593,498

$63,638 $1,259,099 $15,702,049 $3,526,478

Note. Previous to 1891 pearls were classified with “jewelry and precious stones,” and it was not
until 1895 that most of them were reported separately.

There are several things that are essential in pearl buying, and one of the
most important of these is that the light in which the pearls are selected
shall be absolutely pure daylight, with no reflections from the side or from
above that can enhance or detract from the color of the pearl. This must be
carefully considered, as it is not uncommon—more especially in certain
parts of Europe—that jewelers have for their selling-offices rooms
sumptuously fitted up with hangings of different colors, and sometimes
with ground glass windows, provided with heavy silk hangings, so that
artificial light becomes a necessity to make the article sold plainly visible.
In absolutely pure daylight, more especially with an unclouded sky—on

Page 459

such days as are probably more frequent in the United States than in some
of the European countries—it is possible to see the exact tint or color of the
pearls; that is, whether it is really a pure white with a tinge of pink or an
orient tending to cream-white, or whether it is more or less tinted with what
is considered a crude or red color in a pearl. Besides this, in a pure light it is
possible to see whether the pearl is brilliant, and to estimate the exact
degree of its brilliancy; whether there are any cracks, scratches, or mars on
the surface; and, lastly, whether the form is entirely regular. If one should
select two necklaces, one absolutely perfect and the other having slight
blemishes as to color or brilliancy, or with breaks, marks, or irregularities,
these two necklaces would be scarcely distinguishable from each other in
artificial light, or in daylight which had been partly confused with artificial
light; although the differences between the two would signify that the
former was worth two or three times as much as the latter.
At great receptions, large, and apparently magnificent pearls are
frequently seen, which are really of inferior quality, and yet, owing to the
absence of pure daylight, they can easily be mistaken for perfect specimens
by any one not especially familiar with pearls. Indeed, if the royalties of
Europe should wear all the pearls belonging to the crown jewels at the same
time, in a palace or hall lighted with candles, gas, or even with some types
of electric light, they would frequently seem to have a quality which many
of them do not and never did possess. It is, therefore, essential for the buyer
to use every precaution in reference to the light in which he examines his
purchase. And we may add that it is just as essential that he should know
the dealer from whom he buys; for, sometimes, after a few weeks or
months, cracks or blemishes develop that were not apparent at first, more
especially when the pearls have been “improved” for a prospective
purchaser.
A test to ascertain the quality of pearls is quaintly expressed in a work
published in 1778, as follows:
How to know good pearls. To discover the hidden Defects and Faults of a Pearl and to know
whether she is speckled or broken or has any other imperfections, the best way is to make trial of it
by the Reverberation of the Sun-beams; for by this means your eye will penetrate into the very
Centre of the Pearl and discover the least defect it has; you will then see whether it be pure, or has
any spots or not, and consequently you may the better guess its value.[415]
If you can cause a ray of sunlight or of electric light to fall on a pearl, the
light will penetrate it and show any specks, inclosed blemishes or
impurities. This can probably best be done by wrapping about the pearl a

Page 460

dark cloth of velvet or other material and having the ray fall slantingly,
whereby the defects are much more clearly shown than if the ray be allowed
to fall directly upon the gem.
A pearl necklace valued at $200,000, shown at one of our recent great
expositions, was to all appearances a remarkably beautiful collection, and it
was only when the intending purchaser took them from their velvet bed and
held them in his hands that he realized that there was not a perfect pearl in
the entire collection. It must have taken more than a week of study for the
clever dealer to arrange them so that the best part, sometimes the only good
part of each pearl, should be where the eye would fall upon it. After they
had been turned in the hands a few seconds, not one perfect specimen was
visible.
The demand for pearls has been so great, and the enhancement of value
so rapid, that the greatest ingenuity has been employed in presenting the
best part of the gems to view, as well as in many other ways. The result is
that when pearls are to be used as borders or as a gallery on a comb or
brooch, they are pierced in such a way that only the best side shall be
outward, so that the general effect produced is that of a perfect row of
pearls; but a careful examination may show that two thirds or three fourths
of them are irregular, and bear abrasion marks, indentations, or other
imperfections.
Following the analogy of the well-known precious stones—the diamond,
the ruby, the sapphire, the emerald and those of less importance—the pearl
is equally potent in creating great and permanent values for itself in catering
to the human love of adornment; and though these large values may be
greatly in excess of the original price that it commanded in the native
oriental market, yet the increased valuation gives profitable livelihood to
hundreds of thousands of persons. These embrace the dealers who sell the
original pearls in lots, those who clean and treat them, others who drill and
string them, and others again who handle them in setting jewelry of all
kinds, and also the large number of dealers throughout the entire world who
sell either the jewelry or the unmounted pearls. Directly connected with the
industry in localities where the fisheries are pursued are a sufficient number
of persons to populate a city the size of Boston, and to these we may safely
add an equal number as herein noted, aggregating about 1,000,000 people
whose livelihood is directly dependent upon the production and traffic of

Page 461

the pearl industry, and who for lack of it would be forced to seek some
other employment. Brought thus to a concrete form, one may readily grasp
the important bearing which the pearl has in a comprehensive estimate of
the complexity of the world’s civilization as we know it to-day.

Page 462

XIV

TREATMENT AND CARE OF PEARLS

Page 463

XIV
TREATMENT AND CARE OF PEARLS

T
he pearl is at the height of its perfection when taken from the
shell; from that moment it never improves. When it is drawn from
the depths of the ocean by the hand of man and given to the
charmed gaze of the world, it is as complete and perfect in its way
as the most beautiful work of art, and, whether as tiny as the point of a pin
or as large as a marble, it is always a perfect, fully formed individual; it is
always in its maturity.
Who found the first pearl? When did he discover it, and what were his
emotions? Was it found by primitive man? Very likely it was discovered by
chance in a mother-of-pearl shell cast up by the sea, or perhaps in a mussel
in a brook. If this happened in an oriental country, the native must have
already seen many equally remarkable objects, endowed with life, while the
pearl could charm him only by its luster and purity. But, besides the
impression produced by its beauty, it must have aroused in the soul of the
discoverer the sensation of wonder which every new and lovely object
excites when seen for the first time. That primitive man appreciated the
pearl is evidenced by the fact that it is found in the mounds and graves of
the American continent, from the State of Ohio to Peru in South America.
Almost all pearls are in perfect condition for setting when they are found;
all that needs to be done is to rub them with a damp or moist cloth or with a
powder of finely pulverized small or broken pearls, and they are then ready
for the succeeding processes. If there are any blemishes, these can be
removed by peeling or “faking,” although few fine pearls require any such
treatment; and then the gems may be drilled, strung, and set, and all that is
necessary for their preservation is due care and attention.

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Pearls are frequently injured in opening the shells or in removal of the
outer layers around the true pearly nacre. Both the Chinese and the Sulu
fishermen are very clever in the art of pearl peeling and pearl improving.
This method is called “faking,” although it is a perfectly legitimate
operation. All it requires is a very sharp knife, a set of files, and a powder
obtained by grinding pearls or pearl shells. This powder is placed upon a
buffer of leather or cloth to polish such parts of a layer as may not have
been entirely removed. The Chinese are unusual adepts in pearl peeling and
have been frequently known to sell as true pearls scales that they have
removed, after filling these scales or peelings with wax or shellac, and
strengthening them by cementing them on a piece of mother-of-pearl. They
are then set with the convex side up and the edges carefully covered so as to
conceal the deception. The Chinese are also very expert in removing layers
of mother-of-pearl from an encysted or buried pearl, taking off layer after
layer with the greatest care, and with a delicacy of touch that enables them
to realize the moment when the pearl itself has been reached, rarely injuring
the latter, although the coating is almost as hard as the inclosed pearl.
Peeling is employed to remove a protuberance or acid stain, to smooth a
surface broken by abrasion, or to take off a dead spot produced by careless
wearing of the pearls and allowing them to rub against one another. There
are many instances where, by careful peeling, a perfect layer and skin have
been brought to light, and where irregular or broken pearls, or those with a
blemish, have been rendered much more valuable by a good peeler. But in
many other cases the pearl has not only been reduced in value, but even
rendered altogether worthless, when it had a dead center or was pitted with
clay or other impurities.
If a pearl has been injured by coming in contact with the acids frequently
used in medicine, the surface may become roughened; or it may be
scratched by being rubbed against a stone in case of a fall or other accident.
If the surface only is injured, it can be restored to its original beauty with
only a slight loss of weight by carefully peeling off the outer layers.
In skinning or peeling a pearl, a magnifying glass, or preferably a fixed
lens, such as is used by engravers, is of great assistance, and a sharp knife,
or, better still, the sharpened edge of a steel file, is a very essential
instrument. Gloves are often worn by the peeler so that no perspiration shall

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reach the pearl and cause it to slip in the hand while it is being manipulated,
and thus have a layer or more injured by the knife.

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Drilling a pearl by means of the bow-drill

Thin layers of pearl removed by peeling (faking)

Examples of properly and poorly drilled pearls

Side view of same pearls

PEARL DRILLING
Streeter mentions a very interesting incident in regard to a genuine black
pearl. This pearl, set with diamonds, was shown in a jeweler’s window; but
after exposure in this way for some time to the sun’s rays, the brilliant black
luster disappeared and gave place to a dull, grayish hue. When the pearl was

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removed from its setting, it was seen that the part which had not been
exposed to the light was of as good color as when first removed from the
shell. It was finally determined to skin off the outer layer, an operation
which was performed with so much success that the original brilliant black
hue was fully restored, proving that the action of the sunlight had only
changed the color of the surface. We may add that the pearl, although it was
shown in the sun, may never have had a good “skin” or layer exposed; or
the layer which was not perfect may have been affected by an exudation of
the wearer produced by illness or medicine.
When pearls are of a poor yellow or dull brown tint, unscrupulous dealers
sometimes intrust them to an operator who drills them almost entirely
through, cracks the skin slightly and impregnates them with a solution of
nitrate of silver; this affects the outer layers of the pearls, and, after its
decomposition, the metallic silver is deposited, and they become absolutely
black. The effect is sometimes hastened by exposing them to the fumes of
nitrate of silver. These pearls are then rubbed up or slightly polished and
may retain a good appearance for a number of years. The upper layers,
however, which have been injured by the chemicals used in the coloring,
often scale off, and the poor and unattractive color beneath appears. This is
sometimes not detected until years after and when the dealer from whom
they were purchased has been forgotten. The breaks or cracks which have
been made can readily be detected by means of a pocket lens, if the
observer is at all experienced. In many cases the outer layer of the pearl has
been colored a good black, although scarcely any crack is visible.
Frequently, when a small knob or protuberance appears in the pearl, or
when it has adhered to another pearl or to the shell itself, this protuberance
is polished off, and the pearl is drilled at this point. This portion of the
surface, however carefully polished, will never have the true orient, but it is
placed in the necklace in such a way that it is completely hidden. Often
pearls become scratched through rough usage, or by the knife used in
opening the shells. These are occasionally polished by means of pearl-
powder, or else the entire outer layer is removed, the new skin beneath
appearing absolutely bright and perfect. It sometimes happens that a pearl
will have a good luster, but a slightly roughened skin. This is at times
polished down; but an experienced eye easily detects that it has been
tampered with. Yellowish pearls are sometimes bleached by means of
strong bleaching substances such as chlorine or other powerful reagents,

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which, although they may whiten the pearl, cause it to become very friable,
as the animal substance becomes more brittle. Pearls treated in this way
frequently wear off, layer by layer, until fully one half of the pearl is worn
out of the setting. When pearls are stained yellowish from the exudations of
the skin, grease, or other impurities, they can be cleaned by putting them in
moist caustic magnesia and allowing it to dry on them. When this is
removed, the pearls will often be found much purer in color than before.
In various parts of the world certain dubious methods have been used for
restoring the beauty of pearls which have grown dim. In India they are
rubbed in boiled rice. Some persons have even fed them to a chicken
fastened in a coop; after the lapse of an hour or two the chicken is killed,
and the pearls rescued from their temporary lodging-place, where they have
been somewhat restored by the digestive juices of the fowl.
Some curious tests applied to pearls are given us in a Hindu treatise on
gems by Buddhabhatta. For instance, we read: “If the purchaser conceives a
doubt as to the genuineness of a pearl, let him place it during one night in a
mixture of water and oil with salt, and heat it. Or let him wrap it in a dry
cloth and rub it with grains of rice; if it do not become discolored, it should
be regarded as genuine.”[416] It is needless to state that these tests would be
either useless or injurious.
If the reader is the owner of a pearl or of a pearl necklace and feels that
the pearls need treatment, any attempt to follow the directions given by
many ancient writers would infallibly result in their injury or destruction.
Pearl drilling is a most delicate operation. It is necessary that the drill
points should have the proper shape,—that is, should not be too tapering,
but slightly blunt at the end, and turning somewhat in a V-shape,—it is also
important that the drill should be revolved with perfect regularity, so as not
to jar or jolt the pearl, as this is likely to lead to the cracking of the pearl or
to the breaking of the drill. This latter happens not infrequently, and is due
either to the structure of the pearl, the clogging of the drill, or to
encountering a hard grain of sand inclosed in the pearl. Should the drill
break in the pearl, it can best be removed by drilling from a point directly
opposite, and slowly forcing the broken drill outward. This process requires
great care in the regulation of the speed, and great exactness of direction in
order to meet the broken drill accurately.

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Pearl drilling was formerly a laborious process, and it was scarcely
possible for a driller to perforate more than from forty to fifty pearls per day
by means of the bow-drill operated by hand. Now, by the use of a modern
machine, 1500 pearls of average size can be drilled without any difficulty in
the same time.
Some of the most successful drilling of fine pearls is done by means of
the bow- or fiddle-drill. The arm of this is made either of steel or of wood,
with a strong cord stretched across it in the style of an archer’s bow. The
drill is inserted in the end of a brass circular disk with a V-shaped groove on
its edge, to admit of the string being passed entirely around it like a pulley,
so that when the drill is placed on anything and held at the other side, and
the bow is moved up and down, the wheel with the drill-end rotates rapidly.
If the pearl is not properly secured, if the drill point is too irregular, if it is
not properly centered, or if it is too rapidly rotated at the start, one or more
layers of the pearl are likely to be broken, giving an irregular, ragged
appearance. If, again, the drill is rotated too rapidly as it is leaving the other
side of the pearl, one or more layers are occasionally forced off, and this in
turn will produce a break on the pearl. It happens not infrequently that
pearls are broken away on the surfaces at both drill holes if the workman is
careless.
As pearls have become more valuable, only the most efficient workmen
are employed in drilling them. Whereas formerly a drill hole would be half
a millimeter in diameter, at present it is much smaller, and such drilling
requires the greatest skill in manipulation. The use of these very fine drill
holes is due principally to the fact that pearls have become so valuable that
the slightest loss, even the fraction of a grain, would amount to a
considerable sum in a necklace of large pearls.
When a pearl has been perforated with a very fine drill hole, the hole may
be enlarged somewhat by using a slender copper wire, the fineness of the
drill hole itself, charged with either diamond-dust, emery, or sand. When the
wire thus charged is drawn in and out, the drill hole can be enlarged to any
desired size.
A large pearl is held in the hand or secured in a wooden block, or else it
is held in a small pair of forceps with a rounded, cup-shaped receptacle at
the end, which is usually lined with chamois leather and is pierced with a
hole through the center. This hole serves as a guide for the drill, directing it

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while the pearl is being perforated. Adjustable cups or forceps with cup-like
ends of every size are necessary, according to the size of the pearl; and in
order that it may be properly seen, it is requisite that the pearl should
always be larger than the cup in which it is placed.
The poorest part or spot is selected to form the beginning of the drill
hole. The pearl is placed in a pair of calipers with a circular disk, one end of
the caliper being placed on the spot to be pierced, the other end naturally
touching exactly opposite, the pearl absolutely centering it. As these caliper
ends have been rubbed with either rouge, lampblack, or some colored
substance that will readily rub off, these two spots of color remain on the
pearl and serve as a guide for the driller. The drill end is then placed on the
pearl, and the bow moved up and down; and so rapid is this work that five
pearls weighing fifteen grains each can be drilled with the greatest care in
less than one hour’s time. Of small pearls, weighing about one grain, as
many as fifty have been drilled in less than one hour by the hand-drill
method.
Many of the thinnest and best drills are made out of thin steel needles.
These are ground flat by means of a small carborundum wheel, so as to
have two flat sides. They are then thin pointed, and with a V-shaped edge.
These prevent the drill from clogging up, allowing the fine dust to pass
upward and outward readily, and the hard steel almost invariably penetrates
the central core of the pearl, no matter how hard or tough this may be. The
needle-drill is then secured in a small chuck attached to the brass revolving
wheel. Some recommend lubricating a drill with milk when it is employed
for piercing a pearl, but a well-made drill, that allows the dust to escape as
it is formed, does not require this treatment. The drill should always be
made to revolve quite slowly so that no unnecessary heat may be generated
by friction to injure the color of the pearl and also to avoid the possibility of
the drill becoming clogged by the pearl-dust.
By means of centering calipers or markers, the driller, especially in the
drilling of a large pearl, will generally drill first from one end, and then
reverse the pearl and drill from the other end, meeting absolutely in the
center. This prevents the breaking of the outer layer of the pearl. A skilful
workman can, by turning the pearl, so operate the calipers that the true
center can be obtained, even if the pearl is not absolutely round, and the
drill holes so centered that the irregularity of the pearl is less apparent.

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When the pearl has been half drilled through from one side, considerable
caution is necessary in drilling from the other, that when the two drill holes
are about meeting the drill be not revolved too rapidly, as the clogging is
likely to crack the pearl or break the drill. If the pearl is only to be drilled
one fourth or one half through, the depth can always be gaged by watching
the drill-end, first, by measuring the drill-end itself, and, secondly, by
noting to what part of it pearl-powder adheres.
Pearls are more easily manipulated than any other gems. They are also
more easily damaged. Still, when properly treated by the workman, there is
no material that offers him more satisfactory results than the pearl, if good
judgment be used.
Drillers occasionally find that when the drill reaches the center of the
pearl, there is a sharp click, the pearl often breaking at this point. This is
evidently due to the fact that a harder kernel may exist in the center, such as
a tiny grain of sand, which can turn the drill point; or else the resistance
may cause the tiny drill to break.
When a pearl is cracked by a blow or by some accident, it is customary to
drill it at the end of the largest crack; this method prevents the crack from
extending in that direction. These fissures are sometimes partly filled by
means of a solution, and may not be visible at the time when the pearl is
bought, but they are liable to appear later.
To illustrate the difference in the care used in drilling, we have selected
eight pearls from a paper of poor ones, and reproduce two views of them,
one to show the irregularity of the pearls, and the other to show the varying
size of the drill holes. Those on the left were drilled by an artist, while those
on the right show the work of an inexperienced driller.
At present pendant pearls are never drilled entirely through, and rarely
more than half way. But in the Orient, and even in Europe from the
fourteenth to the sixteenth century, they were often entirely pierced; even
pear-shaped pearls were entirely drilled through, with a metal edge
projected below for safety. Frequently old pearls, and more especially
oriental pearls, have been entirely drilled through, as are often large oriental
rubies, diamonds, and sapphires. When these are set, the holes are either
plugged with pearl shell and polished smooth, or a tiny ruby or diamond is
set in a metal rim fitting entirely into the drill hole or only slightly
projecting. This is well instanced in the portrait of Marguerite of France

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(1553–1615), in which the artist Delpech shows all the pear-shaped pearls
worn by the French queen entirely pierced.
Frequently, where pearls have been drilled by oriental workmen, the drill
holes are exceedingly large, five or six times the width of the silk string; in
fact often from one to two millimeters in diameter. In the search to supply
the great demand, many oriental pearls have been secured which formerly
were strung to an oriental jewel by means of a thick wire; it is necessary to
close this aperture, as the pearl would lie unevenly on the string. This is
done by introducing a mother-of-pearl plug, through which a new drill hole
is made. Unless the pearls are unstrung, this is rarely visible; but not
infrequently the plug drops out. In other cases the pearl has been drilled not
only from end to end, but also from the side, and this third hole is filled
with a plug of mother-of-pearl and polished over so as to hide the blemish
from the buyer. It is also no uncommon thing for a purchaser to find, after a
year, that cracks begin to develop where none apparently existed at the time
of his purchase, or they were so minute as to be considered of no
consequence.
One of the earliest references to drilling pearls was made by Rugerus, a
monk who lived in the eleventh century. He says:
Pearls are found in the sea-shell and shells of other waters; these are perforated with a fine steeled
instrument which is fixed in wood, having a small wheel of lead, also another wood in which it may
be turned, to which a strap must be placed by which it may be revolved. But should it be necessary
that the aperture of any pearl be made larger, a wire may be placed in the opening with a little fine
sand, one end of which may be held in the teeth, the other in the left hand, and by the right the pearl
is conducted upwards and downwards, and in the meantime sand is applied, that the apertures may
become wider. Sea-shells are also cut into pieces and are filed as pearls, sufficiently useful upon
gold, and they are polished as above.[417]
In “The Toy Cart,” a Hindu drama by Sudrake, who lived about the
beginning of the Christian era, there is a description of a jeweler’s
workshop attached to the house of a courtezan. He says: “Some set rubies in
gold, some string gold beads on colored thread, some string pearls, some
grind lapis lazuli, some cut shells and some grind and pierce coral.”[418]
The Chinese and Korean method of drilling pearls differs materially from
that of the Occident. A pear-shaped pearl is frequently drilled horizontally
and secured by wire or silk, and not drilled perpendicularly, as with us, to
have a metal wire or peg fastened into it. If the orientals drill a pearl
perpendicularly, the hole is generally carried entirely through it, and a gold
knot, which is used as a bead, is placed at the lower end, and sometimes a

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tiny gem is set in this peg, or else the pearl is secured either by some
projection below, or by means of a bit of enamel, or some other object may
be attached to the gold or wire below it. Button pearls, especially those of
the abalone, are drilled horizontally through the base and secured to the
ornament, or to the silk or other material on which they are sewed, by
means of a thread or wire; or else they may be drilled from below by means
of two sloping holes forming a V, the thread or wire being passed upward
until it strikes the angle, and then passed outward again through the other
branch of the hole. Many fine, round, and pear-shaped pearls of oriental
origin may be seen with this end closed either with a speck of pearl, a
diamond, or a ruby.
A most interesting and careful description of the methods of drilling
pearls was given by James Cordiner in his valuable volume, “A Description
of Ceylon,” published in London in 1807, pages 64–66.

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Scraping ends of silk threads for stringing pearl necklace

Stringing a pearl collar in sections; cleaning and reaming out
a pearl

Sliding a pearl along the string in pearl stringing

Tying a knot between pearls in pearl stringing

PEARL STRINGING
The next operation which claims attention is the drilling of the pearls. I neglected to inspect this
part of the business; but have been informed that much admiration is excited, both by the dexterity of
the artist, and the rude simplicity of the machinery which he employs. A block of wood, of the form
of an inverted cone, is raised upon three feet about twelve inches from the ground. Small holes or pits
of various sizes are cut in the upper flat surface, for the reception of the pearls. The driller sits on his
haunches close to this machine, which is called a vadeagrum. The pearls are driven steady into their
sockets by a piece of iron with flat sides, about one inch and a half in length. A well tempered needle
is fixed in a reed five inches long, with an iron point at the other end, formed to play in the socket of
a cocoanut shell, which presses on the forehead of the driller. A bow is formed of a piece of bamboo

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and a string. The workman brings his right knee in a line with the vadeagrum, and places on it a small
cup, formed of part of a cocoanut shell, which is filled with water to moderate the heat of friction. He
bends his head over the machine, and applying the point of the needle to a pearl sunk in one of the
pits, drills with great facility, every now and then dexterously dipping the little finger of his right
hand in the water, and applying it to the needle, without impeding the operation. In this manner he
bores a pearl in the space of two or three minutes; and in the course of a day perforates three hundred
small or six hundred large pearls. The needle is frequently sharpened with oil on a stone slab, and
sometimes, before the operation is performed, is heated in the flame of a lamp.
The large pearls are generally drilled first, in order to bring the hand in to work with more ease on
those of a smaller size; and pearls less than a grain of mustard-seed are pierced with little difficulty.
After the pearls have been drilled, they must be immediately washed in salt and water, to prevent
the stains which would otherwise be occasioned by the perforating instrument.
A quaint description of pearl drilling was given by Anselmus de Boot in
1609.[419]
Since all are not aware of the manner in which pearls are perforated, I wish here to give an account
of the method. The handle. A, is held with the left hand, and then the handle, B, of the bow is pushed
back and forth with the right hand, so that there is a reciprocal movement of the lance AC. The
extreme end, C, has a needle, not so sharp as to come to a point, but slightly blunted. The needle is
placed on the pearl which is to be perforated. If the pearls are too small to be held, they are fastened
in the case, D, with a small hammer of soft wood, lest they should slip. The board is inclosed on
every side by strips of wood so that the water which comes from the pearls shall not flow off. The
bow being moved, the needle penetrates and pierces the pearl and it is not corroded by the water.
A mythical story, but a pleasant one, is told of a great pearl collector who
had owned a wonderful pear-shaped pearl for many years and had
absolutely failed to find any match for it. After years of fruitless search he
was at last rewarded by finding an absolutely perfect mate. He took this to
his favorite jeweler in one of the great capitals of Europe, and ordered the
new gem to be pierced to match the other so that both could be set. The
jeweler called a small German boy from an adjoining workshop, simply
saying, “Jakey, drill this pearl to match the other.” The collector was
dumfounded that no caution should be given to the boy when so important a
piece of work was intrusted to his care. Scarcely had the boy left the room
when the collector inquired of the jeweler, almost in consternation, “How
can you trust so valuable a pearl to so small a boy without a word of
caution?” To this the dealer replied: “Jakey is the most careful pearl driller I
have ever known. I know that there will be no failure in the drilling. I have
never cautioned him about such work. He never has drilled a pearl wrong.
Had I warned him of the value of the gem or told him how important a
piece of work he was doing, he probably would have become nervous and,
as a result, your pearl would have been cracked.” The conversation had

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scarcely been completed before Jakey returned with the pearl as beautifully
drilled as the original one which it matched.
In the Orient and elsewhere, when it is considered desirable to mount a
pearl so that it shall not turn, especially when only one part of the pearl is
perfect and that is to remain outside, the drill hole is sometimes made
square, that is to say, drilled round and then reamed out with a small saw
until it becomes square, when a square wire is inserted; or else the pearl is
first drilled with a tiny round hole and this is then reamed out until it is
triangular, when a triangular wire is introduced. This method is sometimes
used for studs or ring-settings.
In setting pearls with points or claws on the wire or band of a ring, the
pearls are drilled only half way through. A gold pin is then inserted, and
sometimes a thread is cut into the pearl itself; it is secured by means of gum
mastic or some other strong gum. Occasionally, to add greater strength, a
side pin is put in, so that the pearl is drilled with two bits of metal, which
penetrate the one side in a perfectly straight line and the other at an angle of
about twenty-five or thirty degrees (this is called side-pegging). This gives
more strength and firmness to the pearl itself, and prevents it from twisting
or twining and becoming loose. Sometimes the pearl hole is drilled so that
the opening is that of a screw-thread, in order to hold it to the earring, the
stud, or the ring. The gold pin which is inserted to attach the pearl to the
ring or stud has a screw-thread also, and the peg or pin is screwed on as
well as secured.
An ingenious method, termed “keying,” for securing the peg in pearls to
be set on rings or studs, consists in drilling a hole half through the pearl and
then two smaller holes or grooves on each side of the first. Cutting tools of
a T-shape are now introduced into the aperture and worked about until the
pearl is undercut all around, so that when a peg with a cross-piece is
inserted, the latter can be turned within the pearl until it sets at right angles
with the widest part of the aperture. In this way the peg is permanently
secured and cannot slip out.
The fact that in recent years more pearls have appeared in necklaces that
are irregularly bored, that the bore holes are so large that they are plugged
with mother-of-pearl, or that one meets with pearls in which a plug has been
placed in the side immediately in the center between the two drill holes, is
due to the fact that the great demand has resulted in the destruction of many

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oriental ornaments in which the pearls were drilled in various ways, as well
as in the destruction of the different Magyar and other semi-official jewels
of eastern Europe.
The most primitive known drills were the flint drills, made by the North
American Indians by chipping chert or flint-like minerals to a fine point.
With these rude instruments a large, irregular hole was made, which
generally measured several times the diameter of the fine drill hole made by
a modern pearl driller with an improved drill. The Indians are also said to
have used hot copper drills for boring holes.
The earliest, and still a very general and perhaps the best way of drilling
pearls, is by means of the bow- or fiddle-drill. This method has been used in
a more or less perfected form by all the aboriginal peoples of the New
World from Iceland to Tierra del Fuego. But as none of these peoples were
familiar with fine, hard steel, they scarcely ever succeeded in making drill
holes as fine as those that can be produced by the use of tempered steel. By
the latter means, pearls half an inch in diameter are often drilled entirely
through with an aperture no larger than a thin bit of straw.
The largest and finest pearls are frequently drilled with the smallest
holes, as the slightest loss in weight means a diminution in value. Then, too,
a pearl with a small drill hole is not so liable to shift on the string, and thus
is less likely to cut the silk thread which holds the pearls together.
It would be difficult to enumerate all the tricks to which some jewelers
now resort in order to utilize every fragment of a pearl they can lay their
hands on. Some of them are wonderfully clever at reconstruction, but to the
woman who loves pearls, nothing can take the place of the soft, beautiful,
round gem, with its natural surface.
In sorting pearls for the smaller necklaces, it is customary to open up a
number of dozen bunches of the East Indian pearls as they are sent from the
East, strung, the ends fastened together in bunches, and then sealed. These
pearls are placed on a table and are first arranged according to color and
luster on the sorting board. They are then grouped according to size and
graduation, the greatest care being exercised in the selection for color,
luster, and form. In this way ten necklaces may be re-strung into ten others,
the necklaces probably being improved as regards selection, or else better
arranged for the uses to which the jeweler wishes to put them.

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In the case of the larger necklaces, it frequently requires many years of
selection and arrangement before one becomes perfect enough to pass the
criticism or suit the fancy of the jeweler.
We have no record as to when the first pearl necklace was strung, nor
have we a definite record of the first use of silk for stringing a necklace.
The earliest illustration that we have been able to obtain of the use of pearls
in the form of a necklace is the one from Susa, in which the pearls were
secured with gold. A Syrian necklace, dating about one or two centuries
before Christ, was strung by means of a bronze wire. We will endeavor to
give a few facts on the interesting process of preparing pearls for wearing.
Pearl stringing is an art, easy as the process may seem, and it is
interesting to note the precision, care, and delicacy with which the pearl
stringer performs his task. The first step is to grade the pearls according to
their size and color, so that they may produce the best possible effect. The
largest and finest pearl is placed in the center; alongside of this, on each
side, are laid the two pearls next in size which are the most nearly alike in
form and hue; and so on to the end of the necklace. This grouping requires
both experience and judgment, and is of great importance, since the value
of the pearls is often considerably enhanced by a proper arrangement. A
skilful stringer is able to grade them so cleverly that only a trifling
difference will be found in the weight of the two halves of a necklace.
The stringing process consists in securing the end pearl by a knot to the
diamond, pearl, or other clasp which may be used. When a necklace is
being strung, the thread is passed through the metal eye, or pearl, or other
object that serves as a clasp. It is then tied with one knot, passed through the
next pearl, and knotted between that and the second pearl, and sometimes
between the second and the third, thus making the joint doubly secure. The
other pearls are then strung in their order, a knot being placed after each
fifth, fourth, third, or second pearl, or, should there not be enough to give a
proper length to the necklace, between each single pearl. The deftness with
which the knot is tied so as not to hold the pearl too tightly, and risk the
breaking of the thread, and the precision with which forty, fifty, and even
sometimes several hundred knots are made on a single string, is a pleasing
operation to witness, and requires the greatest care and nicety of touch. If
knots are made frequently between the pearls, there is less danger of losing
them should the thread break, as only one or two can fall off; sometimes,

Page 479

indeed, when the drill holes are very small, the silk thread, waxed or
unwaxed, fits so closely that the pearl does not become detached even when
the thread breaks.
The thread used is invariably of silk of the highest standard of purity,
strength, and texture, undyed, and not containing any chemicals. Two or
three of these threads are held together, then with a knife the edges are very
carefully scraped till the combined material of the three threads is less than
the thickness of one. Some use a needle to scrape or fray to a sharp point.
Then this point is stiffened by means of “white glue,” the best material of
this kind being pure gum arabic dissolved in water. A little of this is rubbed
on the pointed threads. It stiffens in a moment, then the pearls are passed
on, one after the other. If the pearls to be strung are already on a necklace,
this process is simplified by the unknotting of the end of the necklace to be
re-strung; two or three of the pearls are slid on to the new string, the ends or
points of the new necklace thread are twisted together with the old ends and
the pearls are simply transferred.
Frequently the holes have been drilled so as to leave the rims rather
sharp; in this way the thread may be frayed out or even cut. This sharp edge
can easily be removed by careful reaming. Silk of pure quality is the best
material known for stringing pearls. A series of experiments were made
with every available fiber of sufficient durability from every quarter of the
globe, but silk alone was found to possess the strength, the flexibility, and
the smoothness necessary to permit a very fine set of threads to pass
through an opening as small as the drill hole of a pearl. In the case of a long
chain or sautoire, more than three hundred pearls will be strung on a single
row, one of over eighty inches in length containing over three hundred
pearls, and it requires a degree of neatness and patience that few possess to
do this in exactly the right way, so that the thread may not be cut, that the
pearls may not be too tightly strung, and that the ends shall be carefully
attached at the clasp, so that the necklace may hang well and there may be
no danger of the ends breaking loose.
According to the frequency with which it is worn, a necklace should be
re-strung every three, six, or twelve months. The proper time for re-
stringing can generally be determined by the stretching of the thread so that
it can be seen either between the pearls or at either end, giving the

Page 480

impression that one or more pearls are missing. A newly strung necklace is
taut.
Where a collar is from thirteen to fourteen inches in length, there are
frequently twenty-three rows of pearls, kept straight by four jeweled bars,
and sometimes from ten to twenty-five pearls in a section between a bar.
This would mean that there are more than two thousand pearls in a collar of
small pearls. When one considers that at each bar and at the catch and clasp
of the collar it is necessary to make a knotting, it is not surprising that it
requires from three to four days’ time of a very expert pearl stringer to
string or re-string such a pearl collar. A splendid example of such a twenty-
three-row collar is that belonging to Señora Diaz, wife of the President of
the Republic of Mexico.[420]
Frequent stringing may sometimes serve as a protection for pearls, as, if
wax is used, the drill hole is likely to become coated with wax from the
thread, and this prevents the absorption by the pearl of perspiration or
moisture of any kind through the thread. Indeed, the thread itself, when
waxed, does not readily absorb moisture, and as the interior of the pearl also
becomes waxed, this serves to protect it from the absorption of humidity of
any kind.
In making pearl necklets or muff-chains, a piece of gold wire of the
proper strength and pliability is taken. This wire is passed through the hole
of the pearl and then cleverly bent into a loop on each side and firmly
soldered. It is important that the wire should be very slightly smaller than
the dimension of the hole in the pearl so that it may fit closely. Sometimes,
instead of this method, a ring is soldered to one end of the wire before this
is passed through the pearl, the other end being then secured in the manner
described above. Still another method is occasionally employed; in this a
piece of the wire is bent into a ring, but not quite closed, the aperture being
just large enough to admit the wire that has traversed the pearl; in this way
the wire can be introduced into the opening in the ring, which grips it
tightly, and is then soldered to it. In many cases two small rings are strung
on the wire on each side of the pearl before the loops are made, so that they
interpose between the latter and the pearl itself. This serves to protect the
sides of the pearl, as there is otherwise some danger that the hole may
become chipped or ragged; the same result can be obtained if small caps,
closely fitting the pearl, are used instead of the rings. This is, however, only

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possible when the pearl is quite round, and in this case the effect produced
is often very attractive.

NECKLACE OF SEED-PEARLS. UNITED STATES.
CIVIL WAR PERIOD.

Many of the pearls set as rings and studs are no longer set in points, but
are set upon a peg, or are “pegged,” as it is termed. Setting a pearl in claws
generally hides more than one half of the entire sphere. But if the pearl is
not properly secured upon the peg, it will occasionally fall off. However,
this can be obviated to a great extent by attaching the pearl to a double peg
which keeps it from turning and also prevents its falling off. Pearls have
occasionally been damaged with the shellac used, or when the gold peg on
which the pearl is placed was too hot.
In mounting very small pearls as link chains so as to form a continuous
pearly rope without any break in the way of gold links, occasionally V-
shaped cavities are drilled into each end of the pearl, and the setting itself is
hidden in this V-shaped cavity. This is only done where the pearls are small
and not of great value.
The jeweler, in setting pearls, must use the greatest possible care, first, in
cutting away the settings, as they are fastened to the pearl, not to scratch or
mar it; and then, when he files the settings, not to allow the file to touch the
pearl, as both the steel tool and the file would injure it. He must particularly
avoid placing the pearl too close to a diamond, ruby, or other precious
stone; for, even if the pearl only slightly touches the gem against which it is
set, a knock of the hand may mar the pearl’s surface. More especially, as

Page 482

pearls are set at present, “pegged” and without points, it is of the greatest
importance that they be worn in such a way that they may not touch the
unexposed edges of any precious stones, as this also would injure the
pearls. For lack of this precaution fine pearls have frequently been harmed.
A large jewelry firm has under consideration the following pearl order:
Any workman who in any way mutilates a pearl by filing, imperfect drilling
or shaping, or in any way affects the shape of a pearl, without the authority
of the foreman, will be called upon to pay for the same.
As pearls are natural objects, any change of the same to fit the setting, or
for attachment to any gold object, mutilates the gem and greatly affects its
value. If belonging to a customer, this frequently means its replacement,
often at a great cost to the jeweler.
Pearl “blisters” frequently have the appearance of being empty; they are
generally filled with a fluid, either water or the product of animal and
vegetable decomposition. These contents usually emit a peculiar and
unpleasant odor. As the exterior of the inclosure gradually wears away and
disappears, the contents of the blister are slowly absorbed by the shell itself,
and any organic or insoluble substances are deposited on its inner surface.
Thus, when a shell shows any protuberance on this surface, the peeler
will cut or scrape away a portion of the decaying shell behind the spot.
Should he discover the hole of a borer, he lays the shell aside; but if he
finds it to be perfect at this spot, it is evident that the inclusion came from
within, and frequently it turns out to be an included pearl. This is removed
by breaking the shell, or by cutting around the protuberance very near to its
edge, and then breaking away the shell. The pearl is often visible, and layer
after layer of the covering mass is removed with the greatest care by the
peeler, who is rewarded by bringing to light pearls of various qualities, and
frequently those of great value.
An instance in which, by opening a pearl blister, the speculator received a
good reward is given by Streeter, who says: “The Harriet had the good luck
to find, in 1882, a pearl 103 grains in weight, which was inclosed in a huge
blister. It was a fine bouton, of splendid color in the upper portion, but a
trifle chalky below. This was attributed to the admission of salt water into
the shell through a hole made by a borer which happened to pierce the shell
just where the pearl lay, and had penetrated the latter for almost a quarter of
an inch.”

Page 483

Sometimes pearl masses are hollow. Barbot[421] mentions that a French
merchant residing in Mexico, having bought one of these pieces from a
fisherman at a low price, resolved to satisfy his curiosity by finding out
what was inside. He split it in two parts and was agreeably surprised to find
a pearl weighing 14¼ carats (57 grains), so round, of such good water, and
such fine orient, that he sold it in Paris for nearly 5000 francs ($1000) in
1850.
Seed-pearl work was introduced into the United States, about seventy
years ago, by Henry Dubosq, who had studied the methods employed in
Europe and has been succeeded in this industry by his son, Augustus
Dubosq. The father bought a large quantity of English seed-pearl jewelry,
brought it to this country, and hired a number of girls to take it apart
carefully and re-string it with white horsehair, to learn how it was made.
With no more teaching, he established an industry that has already lasted for
three score and ten years.
Seed-pearl jewelry was most in vogue from the year 1840 to 1860. It was
generally sold in sets, in a case consisting of a collar, two bracelets, two
earrings, a small brooch, and a large spray or corsage ornament. If the
object was almost round, occasionally there was a larger central pearl,
weighing from one to five grains, usually a button pearl; or, if the ornament
was elongated, there were generally three larger pearls. These sometimes
possessed a fairly good luster. Seed-pearl jewelry was at one time so
popular, and the values were so small in this country, that a $1000 seed-
pearl set formed a principal feature of the Tiffany exhibit at the
International Exposition held at the Crystal Palace, New York, in 1855.

Page 484

MOTHER-OF-
PEARL SHELL
FROM TAHITI

Illustration of a mother-of-
pearl shell, showing where a
blister has been cut out. In
this instance a large pear-
shaped pearly blister appeared
almost in the center of the
shell. A dealer removed this
by means of a saw, and was
surprised to find that the
mother-of-pearl, instead of
remaining intact, parted in
two pieces. Between these
two pieces was a mass of
green and white calcareous
matter. The two upper figures
show the pearly side and the
outside of the shell whence
the blister was cut. The
figures below show the inside
and outside of each half of the
blister and the earthy matter
inclosed.

A is the pearl sawn from the
shell.

B is the piece of pearl that

Page 485

parted from the back of this
pearly mass.

C and F are two views of the
included calcareous matter.

D is the reverse of A, showing
the cavity.

E is the reverse of B;
originally A rested on B.

There was no indication of
any hollow space, or that the
mass was not perfect.

Seed-pearl tiaras sell for from $75 to $200 or $300 each. The work is
almost entirely done by girls, either German or of German origin. As labor
is higher and pearls have advanced in price, none of the old work could now
be duplicated for the amount it cost twenty or thirty years ago. The stringing
of the pearls on the English scroll means probably twelve hours of
continuous work. An efficient pearl worker receives $3.50 a day, which
consists of not more than eight hours, as, owing to the very trying character
of the work, clear daylight is necessary to see the holes in the small pearls
and in the mother-of-pearl shell.
The foundation of all seed-pearl work is mother-of-pearl. The shell is
brought in thin plates, measuring from one and one half to two and one half
inches square. One of the most popular and attractive patterns is the English
scroll. If a design is to be repeated, a brass figure is made. For the
fabrication of a brooch, for instance, a design is first made by drawing on a
paper or cardboard; then a brass plate or pattern is cut out, leaving spaces
wherever there are to be no pearls. After this a slab of stock mother-of-
pearl, nearest the size of the brass plate, is selected, and is sawn out, using
the brass plate as a guide for the outlines. The mother-of-pearl is then
pierced wherever a pearl is to be secured, and the pearls for its
embellishment are chosen, and are strung onto the mother-of-pearl outlines
with a special horsehair thread. All the work that remains for the jeweler is
the addition of a pin or catch on the back. A representation is given of the
designs, the brass plate, the mother-of-pearl, the horsehair, the pearls, and
the completed brooch made by this model.

Page 486

Fine horsehair is used for stringing seed-pearls, because the holes drilled
in them are usually too small to admit of the use of silk, and it is very
important that what is known as pulled hair, taken from a living horse,
should be used, as otherwise the hair is too brittle. This hair, in bunches of
from eight to fourteen inches in length, is sold at an average price of $1.50 a
pound, and frequently only one ounce is selected for use from the entire
pound.
All the pearls used by the seed-pearl workers are purchased in strings and
bunches; the finest are those known as the Chinese seed-pearls; they are
drilled and strung in bunches, weighing three ounces, and are worth $40 an
ounce. They are drilled with so fine an aperture that silk will not pass
through the pearl, and only horsehair can be used. The Indian Madras
pearls, however, have a larger drill hole and can be strung with silk; they
are at present worth from eight to fifteen cents a grain, that is, $48 to $90
per ounce.
Immense quantities of these very minute pearls are also used in bunches
or strings, sometimes as many as twenty or thirty strings being grouped
together and either bound straight or else twisted into veritable ropes of
pearls.
Seed-pearls are sold by the ounce, a single ounce frequently containing
as many as 9000,—that is, fifteen pearls to the pearl grain or sixty to the
carat,—selling for from $48 to $60 an ounce. Naturally, some of these
pearls are even smaller than this, but the average is maintained by those that
are a little larger.
Pearls as small as 100 to a diamond carat are drilled and used in seed-
pearl work. Diamonds, rubies, and even sapphires, however, are cut in
brilliant form when they are as small as 250 to 300 to the carat, or 45,000 to
the ounce. The price of these small pearls, however, is only from eight to
fifteen cents per carat, whereas diamonds of this size are worth from $200
to $300, their value being three times that of those weighing one sixteenth
to one eighth carat each. This is due to the fact that the labor expended in
cutting the smaller diamonds is much greater than that bestowed upon the
pearls, which simply require drilling and not cutting.
“Half-pearl,” as we have mentioned, is the name given to such pearls as
are round and spherically domed and are either somewhat flat or almost the
shape of one half of a whole pearl of the same diameter. They are produced

Page 487

in two ways: some are cut away as hemispheres from the inner surface of
the shell of the pearl-mussel, but more usually they are the better portions
of defective whole pearls which are sawn or split by hand into two “halves”
with a minute saw, the defective part being rejected altogether or classified
as inferior half-pearl, while the better half is classified as a I or II quality
half-pearl. Frequently a fine specimen is obtained from an elongated pearl,
and sometimes two, three, or even four half-pearls are secured from the
various bright parts of a round pearl. In splitting half-pearls, the pearl to be
operated upon is held by hand in a kind of grooved vice or pincers and sawn
through with a very fine saw; this process is at once simple, rapid, and of
insignificant cost.
Only pearls which cannot be cut are filed. In this process the poorer side
of the pearl in question is laid upon the file, and the operator takes a piece
of ordinary hard wood, so formed that he can grasp it firmly in his hand,
presses it down upon the pearl, and rubs the latter on the file, removing all
but the good side. In this way a half-pearl is produced.
The smaller half-pearls are from .5 to .75 millimeters in diameter, and an
ordinary ounce of half-pearl material will number 18,000. Of the
manufactured half-pearls there are, on an average, 20,528 to an ounce.
The half-pearl industry is largely carried on in Idar, on the Nahe River,
and in Oberstein, in the Duchy of Oldenburg, Germany. The pearls are
usually purchased from London or Paris houses in lots valued up to $12,000
or more, although some of the firms buy directly from India. In Idar about
one hundred people are employed in this industry. Frequently it is pursued
m the home of the manufacturer, who may employ from one to a dozen or
more workers. These generally include a sorter or arranger, and a marker to
indicate the part of the pearl which should be sawn off. There is also a
trimmer or one who finally adjusts the pearls.
An unusually clever bit of deception was practised by an American pearl
fisher who had found two pearl blisters of almost identical size. Both of
these blisters were hollow, and were alike in form. The pearl dealer very
cleverly polished down both sides, rounded off the edges, cemented the two
backs together, and except for a tiny edge they had all the appearance of a
drop pearl that was fairly perfect on both sides. It required but a little
heating to separate the parts and show the deception.

Page 488

In setting half-pearls, they are generally selected from large lots with
great care as to their being of uniform size. A circular place for the setting is
often drilled with a steel drill, either for several or for a single one. The
half-pearl is frequently placed on one or more tiny disks of paper, to give it
the exact height in the setting, and the edge of gold is rubbed up against the
pearl, which is thus secured in its place; or else tiny edges of gold are left
projecting between each pearl. These are pressed down after the pearl is in
place. This process requires great delicacy and skill and is frequently
employed in the decoration of pearl lockets and watches. In some of the
cheaper work, the half-pearls are cemented into the shallow disks that were
drilled for them, but frequently they are secured by metal points skilfully
raised out of the disks in which the pearls are set, and then pressed down to
hold the latter in place. Although apparently frailly set, it is surprising that
half-pearl ornaments have been owned for more than a century, scarcely a
pearl dropping out; and even if one or two pearls should be lost from the
piece of jewelry, the expense of replacing them is not very great. They are
often not as safely set when they are mounted with diamonds, rubies, or
other stones, more especially in rounded rings or bracelets.
In drilling gold for the setting of half-pearls, where the hole must not be
carried right through the metal, a so-called “pearl drill” is used. This is
designed to cut a hole with a flat base in comparatively thin layers of metal
without disfiguring the opposite side, a task that can easily be accomplished
if care be taken not to drill deeper than is strictly necessary for the safe
adjustment of the pearl. For the construction of this drill a piece of round
steel wire of suitable size is chosen; this is hammered flat at one end and
then filed away at each side, leaving a small spike standing in the center,
which projects a little beyond the cutting edges and acts as a pivot on which
the drill revolves. The steel on both sides of this spike is filed down to a
fine edge, care being taken to preserve the horizontal line, so that when the
spike is embedded in the metal both cutting edges come into play
simultaneously. If the drill is in good condition, it does its work very
rapidly, since it is used in an upright drill-stock, whose weight gives a
uniform and constant pressure. A good range of sizes of this drill should be
kept ready for use, so that one may be found to suit the dimensions of any
given pearl. This is essential in order to make an opening just large enough
to hold the gem, so that it may fit tightly, without the necessity of reaming
out the hole.

Page 489

Half-pearls were frequently used with the most pleasing effect in the
decoration of antique watches. A number of remarkable examples of this
type are among the collection of antique watches of Henry Walters of
Baltimore. This collection had been acquired by Tiffany & Co. after the sale
of the San Donato Palace, the watches having been withdrawn from the
prince’s collection by his sister sometime before the sale.
In mounting pearls on gold, a white paste is sometimes employed in half-
pearl mounting, which is called by the French jewelers gouache. This
substance contains white lead, and its use is liable to be injurious to the
workmen, cases of lead colic having been recently recognized as thus
produced. This subject has lately (1907) been brought forward at the
Société Médicale des Hôpitaux in Paris. The cases were at first mistaken for
appendicitis, but proved to be well-marked cases of lead poisoning. They
had not been reported previously, and are evidently not frequent, those
noted being confined to instances in which the employees had carelessly
been in the habit of removing an excess of the paste with the tongue.
Pearls that are constantly worn with judicious care do not seem to
deteriorate in any way. By judicious care we mean that pearls should not be
dropped or thrown down violently or placed on any substance which is
likely to act injuriously on the surface of the pearl itself.
Strings of pearls should never be dipped into water or solutions of any
kind, because the string which passes through them is likely to absorb and
to draw the liquid into the pearl, and as the pearl is made up of many
concentric layers, it is quite possible that, through capillary action, some
liquid, either pure, or stained with a foreign substance, might be brought
into the pearl, which would in this way eventually become discolored.
Rings and brooches containing half-pearls frequently change color from this
cause; but contact with the skin, or with lace, or with fabrics which are not
stained with certain chemical solutions, seems to have no injurious effect
upon pearls.

Page 490

Ladies’ sewing case and scissors inlaid with half-pearls

Eighteenth Century

Watch incrusted with half-
pearls

Paris Exposition, 1900

Page 491

Snuff-box, ivory inlaid with fresh-water pearls

Eighteenth Century. Collection, Metropolitan Museum of
Art

Watch incrusted with half-
pearls

Paris Exposition, 1900

Page 492

Miniature of Catherine Emilie
Peake, by Richard Cosway.
Gold frame, surrounded by
half-pearls. Eighteenth
Century

Watch incrusted with half-
pearls

Paris Exposition, 1900

It is quite possible that in some instances where pearls which have been
inherited are thought to have changed and lost their beauty, this belief has
been owing to an exaggerated opinion of their quality on the part of those
who expected to inherit them and who never had the opportunity to

Page 493

examine them carefully. In other words, in many cases where pearls are
believed to have lost their luster, to have died, or partly died, there seems,
from the personal observation of the writer, to be little doubt that they never
were really fine pearls, and that no change had actually taken place in them.
That pearls change but slightly is evidenced by the fact that a splendid
necklace belonging to the Empress Eugenie, which was purchased about the
year 1860, is in as good condition to-day as when it first passed into the
hands of the unfortunate empress of the Second Empire. Many of the pearls
in the royal treasury in Vienna that belonged to Maria Theresa, and those
that were disposed of at the sale of the French crown jewels in 1886, as well
as the pearls that are in the imperial collection at St. Petersburg, do not
seem to show any appreciable evidence of age.
The pearl is of a lower hardness than any of the precious or semiprecious
stones, and almost as soft as malachite, though not so friable or liable to
break as is that mineral; nevertheless, it is in many ways one of the most
indestructible of natural objects of the low hardness. Still, pearls, and
especially fine pearls, require some care; but, if the same attention is
accorded them as would be given to a fine piece of lace, velvet, or other
fabric, or to a fine jewel, they will last for a number of generations. If,
however, pearls are worn at all times without removal, if they are worn in
the bath, if they are thrown on a dressing-table, dropped on the floor, or
otherwise ill-treated, if they are worn on dusty automobile rides, in bicycle
riding, or during other gymnastic or violent exercise, it is inevitable that
their sides will rub together and wear one another away. If they are worn in
the bath or in swimming, the silk string which holds them, should it become
soaked, may draw some of the water, accompanied perhaps with dust and
perspiration, through the drill hole into the center of the pearl, and this is
likely to be absorbed in turn by the various layers of the pearl, in some
instances undoubtedly affecting the color, changing it to a yellow or a gray.
It would be well not to wear pearls under the exceptional conditions above
mentioned; and, if they are carefully wiped at times, so as to remove any
perspiration or dust, their color is not likely to be affected for a long period
of time.
Dr. George Harley writes in the “Proceedings of the Royal Society,”
March 1, 1888, p. 463:
On one occasion being desirous to crush into powder a split-pea sized pearl, we folded it between
two plies of note-paper, turned up the corner of the carpet, and placing it on the hard, bare floor,

Page 494

stood upon it with all our weight. Yet, notwithstanding that we weigh over twelve stone, we failed to
make any impression whatever upon the pearl, and even stamping upon it with the heel of our boot
did not suffice so much as to fracture it. It was accordingly given to the servant to break with a
hammer, and on his return he informed us that on attempting to break it with the hammer against the
pantry table, all he succeeded in doing was to make the pearl pierce through the paper and sink into
the wooden table, just as if it had been the top part of an iron nail, and that it was not until he had
given it a hard blow with the hammer against the bottom of a flat-iron that he succeeded in breaking
it.
As the foregoing and other notes had appeared on this subject, the author
was led to observe that pearls are possessed of greater durability than is
generally supposed. In order to demonstrate this satisfactorily, he took a
number of American pearls and placed them upon different kinds of woods,
such as white and yellow pine, white oak, teak, ash, cherry, chestnut, and
rosewood. He then stood upon them, thus bringing a weight of more than
two hundred pounds to bear upon them by means of his heel. The pearls
were driven into the different woods, with the single exception of the
rosewood, which offered greater resistance so that the pearl only entered
partly. In but one instance did a pearl suffer by a slight scaling off. This
shows the strength of the many concentric layers, both mineral and
vegetable.
This does not signify that pearls should be stepped upon, trodden upon,
or thrown about, as it is not unlikely that a pearl would crack if it should fall
from some height upon a hardwood or stone floor.
It is believed by many that wrapping pearls in dyed velvets or in fatty
woolen materials, and locking them up in safe-deposit vaults, may slightly
change them. On the other hand, there is no doubt that sunlight will bleach
a pearl, and hence it is that wearing them in the light and air cannot
injuriously affect them.
For cleaning pearls, first rub them with a cloth dipped in alcohol diluted
with warm (not hot) water, or in a weak solution of soap and water, then dip
another cloth in clean water and rub the pearls until they are dry. Be careful
not to leave them wet. Either salt, rice, pearl-powder, or some exceedingly
soft substance may aid in cleaning them, but no abrasive such as ground
pumice, electro-silicon, or any powder that is sold as a polishing powder,
should be used.

Page 495

EVOLUTION OF A SEED-PEARL BROOCH

Mother-of-pearl Brass Pearl brooch completed
plate model
Design of brooch Mother-of-pearl sawn
out

Seed-pearls, Indian White horsehair for
strings stringing

There are many things that will cause injury to pearls. Occasionally they
are affected by the wearer having exudations from the skin induced by some

Page 496

disease or else by acids which pass out through the pores with the
perspiration. A smoky atmosphere in which a sulphuric acid is present
owing to sulphur in the coal, violent usage such as knocking severely, or
dropping—all of these will in time cause more or less injury to a pearl,
more especially to one of the whiter varieties; but it is believed that those of
a yellowish cast are not so susceptible. Diderot mentioned this as early as
1765.
The “life” of a pearl is said to be fifty, one hundred, and perhaps even
one hundred and fifty years; they certainly last for several generations. It
has been asserted, without any particular authority, that pearls from the
Pacific Ocean and those from Mexico do not last as long as those from the
Orient, but this statement is questionable.
If there be any foundation for the belief that it is not well to lock pearls in
a safe-deposit box, this is probably owing to the fact that the absolute
exclusion from the air may cause the drying out of the organic constituent
of the pearl. This may be obviated by putting the pearls in a piece of linen
absolutely free from any chemical, at the same time placing with them a bit
of blotting-paper or fiber-paper saturated with water; the whole should then
be wrapped up in paraffin paper, which will prevent the evaporation of the
moisture.
Many sentimental recitals have appeared in the press during the last ten
years in regard to the dying of pearls. In connection with this there is a
beautiful though mythical story to the effect that Carlotta, wife of the ill-
fated Maximilian, Emperor of Mexico, was the possessor of a large
collection of pearls which had died, and that these pearls had been placed in
a casket and sunk in the depths of the Adriatic, opposite the beautiful but
unhappy palace home, Miramar, in the hope that the salt water would revive
and restore their original luster. When, however, the time came to bring up
the pearls from the sea, it was found that the casket had, in some way,
broken loose from the chains, and all trace of it was lost. It is needless to
state that there was absolutely no foundation for this romantic tale; indeed,
these very pearls were afterward sold. Furthermore, pearls have never lived,
and hence they can never die. They do, however, decay, if exposed to
influences which destroy either the calcareous or the animal layer of the
pearl itself. This is due to many causes: first, overheating, sometimes
through the inexperience of a pearl driller; secondly, undue exposure to heat

Page 497

in the washing of a pearl necklace; thirdly, exposure to acids or acid fumes.
Apparently there seems to be some foundation for the belief that if they are
confined in safe-deposit boxes, probably in contact with wool or with the
colored velvets of jewel-cases, the skin of the pearl may be more or less
affected. There is no question that in the oriental fisheries so-called dead
pearls have been found in the shell itself, probably owing to some disease
of the pearl-oyster; and they have also appeared in the fresh-water pearl
fisheries of the United States, where the pearls have been too long boiled in
the opening of the shell, or where they have been swallowed and have
passed through the body of some ruminant, such as a hog, etc.

Facsimile letter of M. Gaston
Mogeaud, Director of the
Louvre, Paris, stating that the
Madame Thiers’ pearls are in
perfect condition, and have
never been in better health.

Page 498

MADAME THIERS’S
PEARL NECKLACE,
BEQUEATHED TO THE
LOUVRE MUSEUM, PARIS

Probably about no necklace has more been printed than about the famous
necklace of Madame Thiers, now in the Louvre Museum of Paris. Article
after article has gone over the face of the earth, stating that the pearls in this
necklace were dying, and that a record was being kept of the slow death that
was overtaking them. Through the courtesy of the director of the museum,
M. Gaston Mogeaud, we are permitted to reproduce the following statement
from a letter, showing very clearly that there is absolutely no truth in the
assertion, and that this necklace has in no way suffered, or is likely to
suffer, for many years to come.
“The necklace of Madame Thiers has caused much ink to flow, to such an
extent that, a few months ago, the minister ordered an examination to be
made by three expert jewelers, who have found that the pearls are in perfect
condition, and have never been in better health.”
For assuring the safety of jewels there are the primitive methods such as
are used in the East Indies, of hiding pearls in out-of-the-way places, where
they often escape detection; or else they may be protected by means of an
armored room, like the gem-room that contained the wonderful collection
of the Duke of Brunswick when he resided in Paris. Decoy necklaces have
even been made to represent the original, and so placed that they were taken
away by the highwayman or stolen by the burglar under the belief that he
was stealing the jewels; while in other cases the pearls have been carried in
receptacles that would not be taken for jewel-caskets, a device resorted to
by some travelers.

Page 499

A word in regard to the former system of strong boxes or small safes for
the home. These protect from fire and from the ordinary thief, but they have
sometimes not proved so invulnerable to the expert cracksman. Quite
recently a jewel chest has been devised which can be placed in a trunk and
carried from city to city by the owner. It is provided with an exceedingly
sensitive electrical apparatus, by means of which a loud burglar alarm is set
off should the chest be lifted even one thirty-second of an inch or jarred
ever so slightly. This alarm is set automatically when the owner turns the
key, and if once started, it will ring for a couple of hours, stopping only
when the box is unlocked, thus preventing the carrying away of what is
otherwise a portable box.
Lastly, there are the more advanced methods, in use during the past two
centuries, such as taking the jewels to a banker and allowing him to place
them in his vault, where they are guarded as well as are his own belongings,
but not always with the security of the modern safe-deposit vaults, where
the gems are absolutely under the control of the owner, and can frequently
be obtained at any hour of the day; or as safely kept as they are when
deposited in the safe deposit of the jeweler, in whose establishment they can
be cleaned, repaired, added to, or changed without risking their removal to
another building.

Page 500

XV

PEARLS AS USED IN ORNAMENTS AND
DECORATION

Page 501

XV
PEARLS AS USED IN ORNAMENTS AND DECORATION

And the necklace,
An India in itself, yet dazzling not.

Byron, Marino Faliero.

T
he brilliant diamond and the love of its possession has captivated
many to such a degree that it has often been the cause of intrigue
and bloodshed; and national history has been influenced by its
acquisition or retention. The pearl, however, though the most
quiet of gems, has, in its own way, found favor in the sight of emperors and
empresses, kings and queens, generals, nobles, and priests; and even
savages have admired its quiet, stately dignity.
The following pages are devoted to a description of the various
ornamental uses of the pearl in different times and countries. Naturally,
many of the famous pearls in the following chapter, if considered purely as
ornaments, might have found a place here.
The Egyptians of olden times do not appear to have used fine pearls,
although they probably knew of them on account of the proximity of the
Red Sea. M. J. de Morgan, the explorer, says: “In the tombs of Dashour I
have never seen any; the only ones that I know of in Egyptian jewelry
belong to the Ptolemaic period and are mounted in Greek style.”[422]
This statement is confirmed by Dr. William F. Petrie, the well-known
Egyptologist, who writes under date of July 26, 1907: “The pearl was often
used in Roman jewelry in Egypt, but I do not know of any instance of it in
pure Egyptian work. The Romans pierced it and hung it by gold wire on
earrings. They also made glass, pearl-like beads, called luli by the modern

Page 502

natives. These beads are made by silvering glass beads and then flashing
over them another coat of glass.”
Among specimens of the late Egyptian work we may note here some
objects in the Louvre:
A pleasing decoration on gold wire is a necklace in the collection of the
Egyptian Gallery. In this very small pearls are used as a connective
decoration for the points of leaves, and to hold the leaves and ornaments is
a gold wire which is secured by bending. This piece comprises 104 pearls, a
greater number than is contained in any other object of antiquity found in
Egypt.
An Egyptian pendant of unknown origin is also shown in this collection.
At the lower end is a bull’s head, caparisoned, and the tip of each horn is
fitted with a ball like the embolados toros of the Spanish bull-fights. The
rein is double, and above this there are two rondelles of an unidentified
material; then comes a rondelle of lapis lazuli, and after this a rondelle of
gold. The whole is strung with twisted gold wire. The center stone is an
hexagonal amethyst, evidently a crystal, the two faces of which had been
polished and incised. One of these faces represents a priest with a staff of
office, and the other a priest holding an incense-burner with the hieroglyph
of the altar. With one hand he is offering the two sacrifices, the mineral and
the vegetable; in the other he holds a garland of flowers or leaves. Above
this is an Oriental pearl somewhat worn and abraded. All these are secured
by a twisted gold wire, to which four tiny gold beads of graduated size are
affixed at the top of the pendant.
There are six other pendants and earrings in the Egyptian Gallery, all of
which contain pearls, and in most instances these pearls have been drilled
and suspended by metal wires, unless they are used as an ornament facing
outward. In four instances they are secured by a peg of gold.
The Assyrian and Persian bas-reliefs show that the sovereigns and great
personages of those countries adorned themselves profusely with pearls.
They wore them not only in their jewelry, but also on their garments and
even in their beards![423] The coins of the Persian kings also bear testimony
to the use of the gem in ancient Persia, since the sovereigns are represented
wearing tiaras ornamented with triple rows of pearls.[424] The same may be
said of the imperial Roman diadem from the time of Caracalla (188–217
A.D.).

Page 503

One of the most interesting of all ancient pearl necklaces,[425] containing
more pearls than any other that has been found, and in a better state of
preservation, is the Susa necklace now in the Persian Gallery of the Louvre
Museum. It consists of three rows, each containing 72 pearls, so that there
are 216 in all. Ten gold bars, formed of three small disks, each about five
millimeters in diameter, divide the necklace into nine equal sections; at each
end there is a disk, ten millimeters in diameter, to which the three strands
are secured. If there was any other setting, it has evidently disappeared,
although it is quite possible that there may only have been a string at each
end, as in the East Indian necklaces.

Page 504

ANTIQUE
ORNAMENTS OF
PEARLS

No. 1. Gold pin from Paphos,
Island of Cyprus, mounted
with large marine and small
fresh-water pearl, now in
British Museum.

Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Gold
earrings and pins set with
pearls, now in the Egyptian
Gallery of the Louvre, Paris.

No. 9. Pearl and gold
necklace found at Susa,
Persia, now in the Louvre,
Paris.

This ornament was found on the site of the ancient Susa or Shushan by
M. J. de Morgan, February 10, 1901, in a bronze sarcophagus, which
contained the skeleton of a woman, adorned with a great number of gold
ornaments set and incrusted with precious stones. M. de Morgan gives circa
350 B.C. as the probable date of these objects. The pearls were much
deteriorated. About 238 were found, but many of them crumbled away
when they were touched. M. de Morgan considers that the necklace was of
the type of the “dog-collar” of to-day, and he believes that it originally
comprised from 400 to 500 pearls.

Page 505

According to a personal communication from M. P. Cavvadias, of the
Société Archéologique d’Athènes, there are no pearls on the ancient
ornaments preserved in the National Museum at Athens. This is hardly
surprising in view of the fact that the greater part of these ornaments belong
to the archaic period of Greek art; that is to say, to a time when the pearl
was evidently unknown to the Greeks.
The fact that we do not find more evidence of the use of pearls in Greece
at a later period need cause no surprise, when we consider how many of the
treasures of Greek art have disappeared in the course of more than twenty
centuries. There can be no question that they were known and used as
ornaments at an early time, as we can infer from the description of them by
Theophrastus and later Greek authors.
Dr. Edward Robinson of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and other
authorities on Greek art and archæology, maintain that the Arethusa
necklace, and other ornaments of that time, depicted on coins, etc., were
meant to represent gold ornaments, as it is believed by many that pearls
were unknown in Greece at that period.
One of the most interesting specimens showing the use of a pearl in
ancient times is a very beautiful pearl pin from Paphos, on the Island of
Cyprus, which is mounted with a large marine pearl, probably the largest
antique pearl ever found, measuring fourteen millimeters in diameter, and
weighing about 70 grains. This, unfortunately, has been very much abraded
and worn away, although more than half of the pearl is still present. It is
surmounted by a small fresh-water pearl, four millimeters in diameter,
weighing about two grains and in a much better state of preservation. This
unusually interesting example of prehistoric pearl is in the Greek and
Roman department of the British Museum, and we are able to show it by
the courtesy of the keeper of that department, Dr. Charles Hercules Read.
In excavations made last spring (1907), in the Hauran district in Syria,
Azeez Khayat found a number of loose pearls which had formed a necklace.
The tomb in which they were discovered was cut in the rock, and appeared
to be of Roman origin. The pearls were still attached to the old bronze wire
with which they had been strung. Mr. Khayat also mentions the finding of a
pearl pin, and a single earring bearing a pearl, in a rock-tomb at Cæsarea, in
Syria. Rock-cut tombs from ten to twelve feet in depth are frequently
discovered, and they probably date from the beginning of the Christian era.

Page 506

The habit was so common of using pearls as a base to throw up the
brilliance of other gems, that we may, perhaps, believe even in Caligula’s
slippers of pearls, with rubies and emeralds set upon them like flowers.
The Roman ladies had a special favor for pearls as earrings, and it was
one of their consuming ambitions to possess exceptionally fine specimens
for this purpose. They preferred pear-shaped pearls, and often wore two or
three of them strung together. They jingled gently as they moved about—a
fitting accompaniment, it may be said, to their graceful movements—and
from this jingling the name crotalia, or “rattles,” was applied to them.
The description given by Pliny of the pearl ornaments of Lollia Paulina is
the principal claim which the wife of Caligula has on our interest.
I myselfe have seen Lollia Paulina when she was dressed ... so beset and bedeckt all over with
hemeraulds and pearles, disposed in rewes, ranks, and courses one by another; round about the attire
of her head, her cawle, her borders, her perruke of hair, her bongrace and chaplet; at her ears pendant,
about her neck in a carcanet, upon her wrest in bracelets, & on her fingers in rings; that she glittered
and shone againe like the sun as she went. The value of these ornaments she esteemed and rated at
forty million Sestertij[426] and offered openly to prove it out of hand by her bookes of accounts and
reckonings. Yet were not these jewels the gifts and presents of the prodigall prince her husband, but
the goods and ornaments from her owne house, fallen to her by way of inheritance from her
grandfather, which he had gotten together even by the robbing and spoiling of whole provinces. See
what the issue and end was of those extortions and outrageous exactions of his: this was it. That M.
Lollius, slandered and defamed for receiving bribes and presents of the kings in the East; and being
out of favor with C. Cæsar, sonne of Augustus, and having lost his amitie, dranke a cup of poison,
and prevented his judiciall triall: that forsooth his neece Lollia, all to be hanged with jewels of 400
hundred thousand Sestertij, should be seene glittering, and looked at of every man by candle-light all
a supper time.[427]

Page 507

TYSZKIEWICZ BRONZE STATUETTE OF APHRODITE,
SHOWING EARRINGS OF PEARL AND GOLD OF
EARLY GREEK PERIOD

Now in Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, Mass.

And the taste of the Roman ladies for pearls has perpetuated itself in
Italy, though other of the luxurious habits which in their case accompanied
it, have long since died out. The women of Florence even now are not
content if they do not possess a necklet of pearls, and this generally forms
the marriage portion of the middle-class women. It is thought, just as it was
in ancient Rome, that this gives an air of respectability, and forms a sure
protection from insult in the street or elsewhere.
One of the earliest illustrations showing a pearl earring is the one in the
ear of Julia, the daughter of Titus, incised on a splendid aquamarine in the
Bibliothèque Nationale. This gem was formerly in the Treasury of St.
Denis, and is considered to belong to the Carlovingian period.[428]
So large and heavy were the earrings worn in Rome that there were
women known as auriculæ ornatrices, special doctresses whose sole
occupation was the healing of ear tumors and of injured or infected ears. In
a similar way, at the present day, we have the ear piercer, whose vocation,
however, is rapidly becoming useless because of the ingenious modern
devices for holding the pearls to unpierced ears; and we must consider this
eminently desirable when we think of the ear-piercing outfits of the former
jeweler, who never disinfected his apparatus, and when we recall the fact

Page 508

that it was always expected that the ear would swell, first, from the crude
awl that was used, and, secondly, from the unsterilized instruments.
That the Romans believed in decorating the statues of their goddesses
with pearls and dedicating them as offerings, is evidenced by the gift of
Cleopatra’s pearl, which was cut in halves to make earrings for the Venus of
the Pantheon; and by the buckler of British pearls for the statue of Venus
Genetrix, given by Julius Cæsar. Quite a number of statues and busts of the
Roman period, and some of an earlier time, have the ears pierced for the
reception of earrings, and it is highly probable that pearls were used for this
decoration. Among these are the busts of Pallas and Juno Lanuvina in the
Vatican; that of Eirene, a marble copy of a work of Cephisdotus, in the
Glyptothek, Munich, and the Venus de Medici in the Uffizi, Florence.
Pottier[429] mentions several other Greek statues which show that earrings
were used for their adornment; as, for example, the winged Victory of
Archernos, in Delos; the head of one of the caryatids found at Delphi, a cast
of which is in the Louvre; the archaic Aphrodite of the Villa Ludovisi; the
Athena from the frieze of the temple at Ægina; the Venus of Milo, etc. In
other instances the ornament was simply painted on the ear as is shown in
the Aphrodite in white marble which has been found in Marseilles. This
may also have been the case in the frieze at Olympia. The earrings used in
these statues were usually metal disks entirely covering the lobe of the ear.
We have, however, many representations of pearl earrings in the paintings
at Pompeii, and on cameos and coins. These show us several of the types
mentioned by Pliny and other authors; still, they are smaller and more
unpretentious than we might expect in view of the well-known luxury of the
Roman ladies in this respect. The greater part of the earrings represented
show a pearl suspended from a single wire; there are some, however, with
three pearls, one above the other,[430] and a few bearing several pearls
loosely hung together, answering to the description of the crotalia. Others,
again, bear pear-shaped pearls or elenchi.[431] It is a singular fact that
scarcely any of the busts of Roman women are ornamented with earrings,
but it is quite possible that the cause for this must be sought in the desire of
the artist to dispense with unimportant details which might detract from the
general effect he wished to produce. We may note, however, four female
figures in the Gallerie des Empereurs in the Louvre Museum, with the ears
pierced for the reception of earrings (Nos. 1195, 1202, 1230, and 1269).

Page 509

Pearl earrings from Herculaneum and Pompeii

Many numismatists, among them Dr. F. Louis Comparette,[432] believe
that the necklaces and earrings represented on Greek coins from the fifth
century B.C. are intended to represent pearl ornaments, since the personages
depicted are in all cases female divinities, goddesses, or nymphs, held in
great veneration in the city where the coins were minted, and it is almost
certain that the artist intended to portray the choicest and most beautiful of
gems as an adornment for the beautiful head of the city’s patron.
The Syracusan coins, by Euvenetus, minted in the early part of the fifth
century B.C., and bearing the head of Arethusa, seem to be the earliest coins
showing a neck and ear ornament. This was later imitated on the Greek and
Greco-Roman coins. A coin of Sulla shows a double necklace, one strand
consisting of round beads and the other of pendants. The later coins almost
always represent the goddesses with neck and ear ornaments. Some of the
latter, however, resembling amphoræ, are neither round nor pear-shaped.
In view of the great fondness of the Romans for pearls, it is not surprising
that many of these gems have been found in the excavations at Pompeii,
Herculaneum, and Capodimonte. The collection of earrings preserved in the
Naples Museum is especially noteworthy. Here we can see earrings
consisting of a simple golden hoop, from which hangs a wire bearing a
single pearl; others in which a cross-bar is attached to the hoop, and at each
end of this bar is a loosely hung wire with a pearl at its extremity, this
earring suggesting the crotalia mentioned by Pliny (see Fig. A); and still
others wherein the pearls are strung directly on the hoop. The cross-bars are
of various designs, sometimes entirely smooth, and again shaped like a
cornice or a pediment; in other cases we have an earring with two pearls on
a wire, then a pierced transparent stone, and beneath that, two pearls

Page 510

terminating the large drop. A few of the earrings are more elaborate, as, for
example, one represented in Fig. B which was found in Pompeii, March 8,
1870. Here there is an emerald in the center, surrounded by gold rays,
between which were set eight pearls, two of which are now missing; above
is a small pearl. The single earring shown in Fig. D came from
Herculaneum, and bears a circlet of thirteen pearls, alternating with rubies
and other stones; beneath there is a link from which depends a pearl about
seven and a fifth millimeters in diameter, and weighing nearly twelve
grains. The fact that we know the latest date to which these pearls can be
assigned, namely, 79 A.D., renders them peculiarly interesting and valuable
from a historical point of view. Naturally, many of them are calcined or
otherwise damaged, but others are fairly well preserved as to form, although
the luster has departed from them. There are twenty-seven earrings in the
collection, and the pearls number about one hundred. No great pearls were
found.
In the Roman excavations, and in those of other early remains, many
objects are found in which there may be a sapphire, an emerald, or several
other stones, pierced, and pendant on a gold wire, with a blank space
between, showing that something was there originally. This object has
apparently decomposed and fallen away. We may reasonably suppose that it
was either a pearl or a glass bead, and it is unlikely that glass would be used
in connection with the more precious materials. This pearl or glass may
have been affected by the organic acids or the acids resulting from the
decomposition of the body with which the ornament was buried for a score
of centuries.
Among the ancient jewels containing pearls which are preserved in the
Hermitage at St. Petersburg, we may mention a broken gold ring with a
roughly cut turquoise and two pendants, each set with two pearls separated
by a garnet. This object was found in southern Siberia during the reign of
Peter the Great, and may belong to the second century before Christ. Also
may be noted a pair of gold earrings, with an engraved six-rayed star, in the
center of which a pearl is set, while below hang three pendant sticks, two of
which have a pearl at the extremity. These earrings were found in 1892 in a
tomb situated close to the site of the ancient town of Chersonesus, in the
Crimea. As a coin of the Emperor Gordianus III (224–244 A.D.) was
discovered in the same tomb, we may assign the earrings to the first half of
the third century A.D.

Page 511

Beside another pair of earrings, one of which is set with a pearl, and two
pearl-headed pins, all from the neighborhood of Tiflis, in the Crimea, we
may especially refer to an earring made of a plain, thick, golden wire, on
which seven pearls are threaded; one of these occupies the center and the
others are grouped around it. This earring was purchased in 1903 by the
Russian Imperial Archæological Commission from a collector residing at
Odessa; it is said to have been found on the site of the ancient Greek colony
of Olbia, but we have no definite external or internal evidence to sustain
this view.
We may also note the gold necklace and earrings[433] containing pearls
found near the site of Olbia during the reign of Napoleon III, and now in the
collection of the Roman, Campana. These objects are especially interesting
owing to the fact that the pearls are drilled and a gold cap is set on each
side.
A pair of pearl earrings were found in a tomb on Mount Mithridates, near
Kertch, in the Crimea. These earrings probably belong to the third or fourth
century of our era. Of the four pearls which originally adorned the cross-
bars, only one has been preserved. Another pair of earrings was discovered
in the same place. It is probable that they were ornamented with pearls in a
similar way, but the latter have entirely disappeared.

Page 512

ANTIQUE PEARL
ORNAMENTS

No. 1. Gold earring with
turquoise top. Two pearls, two
garnets, and two pearls.
Found in southern Siberia in
1726; believed to be of the
second century, A.D.

No. 2. Brass earring with one
pearl and glass beads. Fourth
century, A.D.

No. 3. Brass dress pin. Sphere
of amber, surmounted by a
pearl. Found near village of
Mzchet Caucasus. Fourth
century, A.D.

No. 4. Carnelian dress pins
with pearl tops. Early
Christian.

No. 5. Gold earring, hook and
eye type. From Olbia, the site
of an ancient Greek colony.
Fourth century, A.D.

Nos. 1 to 5 are from the
collection of the Imperial
Hermitage in St. Petersburg.

Page 513

Nos. 6–8–9. Pearl and gold
earrings, Greek, from the
Island of Cyprus. Second
century, A.D.

No. 7. Roman brooch (pearls
and gold), found in the river
Thames, England. Ninth
century, A.D.

Gabriele Bremond states in his “Viaggi di Egitto,” Lib. I, c. 30, that it
was a Mohammedan custom to embroider baldachins and carpets of
precious metals with pearls. This use is especially typified in a baldachin of
gold embroidered with pearls which is over the sepulcher of Mohammed at
Mecca.[434]
When the Mohammedans captured the Persian city Ctesiphon, in 637,
they collected an immense booty. Each of the 60,000 soldiers received the
value of 12,000 dirhems ($1560), a total of $93,600,000. Among the
treasures sent to Caliph Omar (581–644), in Medina, was a crown, perhaps
that of Khusrau I (499–579), which Tabari says was studded with 1000
pearls each as large as a bird’s egg.[435] There was also a wonderful carpet
450 feet long and 90 broad, with a border of emeralds, rubies, sapphires,
and pearls, representing luxuriant foliage and beautiful flowers. Tabari
states that it was called the “Winter Carpet,” because “the Persian kings
used it in winter when there was no longer verdure or flowers, for whoever
was seated on this carpet thought he looked out upon a garden or a green
field.”[436]
On the occasion of the marriage of the Caliph Al-Mamun (786–833) with
the daughter of Hassan Sahal, all the grandees of Al-Mamun received slaves
of both sexes as presents from the bride’s father. The preliminary
negotiations were held at Fomal Saleh, and the road traversed by the bride
and bridegroom to reach Bagdad, a distance of one hundred miles, was
covered with mats of cloth of gold and silver. We are told that the bride
wore on her head-dress a thousand pearls, each of which is said to have
been of enormous value.[437]
Describing the birthday festival of Kublai Khan (circa 1275 A.D.), Marco
Polo says: “The Great Kaan dresses in the best of his robes, all wrought
with beaten gold; and full 12,000 Barons and Knights on that day came

Page 514

forth dressed in robes of the same colour, and precisely like those of the
Great Kaan, except that they are not so costly; but still they are all of the
same colour as his, and are also of silk and gold. Every man so clothed has
a girdle of gold; and this as well as the dress is given him by the Sovereign.
And I will aver that there are some of these suits decked with so many
pearls and precious stones that a single suit shall be worth full 10,000
golden bezants [about $25,000].”[438]
In the Kan period, in China, the dead bodies of the emperors were
embalmed and wrapped in a garment ornamented with pearls. They were
then inclosed in a case of jade.[439]
Speaking of the jewels of the King of Maabar, or what is now known as
the Coromandel Coast, Marco Polo tells us: “It is a fact that the king goes
as bare as the rest, only round his loins he has a piece of fine cloth and
round his neck he has a necklace entirely of precious stones,—rubies,
sapphires, emeralds, and the like, insomuch that this collar is of great value.
He wears also hanging in front of his chest from the neck downwards, a fine
silk thread strung with 104 large pearls and rubies of great price. The reason
why he wears this cord with the 104 great pearls is (according to what they
tell) that every day, morning and evening, he has to say 104 prayers to his
idols. Such is their religion and custom; and thus did all the kings his
ancestors before him, and they bequeathed the string of pearls to him that
he should do the like.”[440]
A favorite East Indian amulet is known as the “Nao-ratna” or “Nao-
ratan,” and consists of “nine gems”: in former times the pearl, ruby, topaz,
diamond, emerald, lapis lazuli, coral, sapphire, and a stone, not identified,
called the gomeda. At the present time these stones are generally the coral,
topaz, sapphire, ruby, flat diamond, cut diamond, emerald, hyacinth, and
carbuncle. This talisman may suggest the Urim and Thummin or sacred
oracle of the Jews, which was said to have been taken from Jerusalem in
615 A.D. by Khusrau II, the Sassanian Persian king.
The East Indian custom for persons of quality was to wear a pearl
between two colored stones in each ear, that is, either between two rubies or
two emeralds; and Tavernier noted, about 1670, that there was no person of
any consideration in those regions who did not wear, in each ear, a pearl set
between two colored stones. Another favorite ornament for women in India

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is a girdle elegantly embroidered, bearing a large pendant pearl in front,
where it is fastened.[441]
A necklace of twenty-seven pearls bears in India the name of nakshatra
mālā, nakshatras (originally “stars”) being the name of the twenty-seven
divisions of the Hindu zodiac.[442]
In the Indian jewels often a small spot of enamel is fastened or melted on
to a gold wire, and then one or several pearls are hung upon it; or beads of
some gems, as sapphire, ruby, emerald, or even glass, may be added or
alternated with pearls. Then the enamel stop-piece is turned down and the
other end of the gold wire is twisted on to the setting, loosely, in such a
manner as to swing freely. It is the effect of these dozens or even hundreds
of swinging drops that add such grace and elegance to East Indian jewelry.

EAST INDIAN NECKLACE
OF PEARLS, TABLE
DIAMONDS, GLASS
BEADS, GOLD AND
ENAMEL

Property of an American lady

In China, such precious stones as the ruby, sapphire—both blue and
yellow—the emerald, and the pink tourmaline, are not facetted, as with us,
but are generally polished in conformity to the shape of the bead or other
ornament, and never have a lathe-turned or cut appearance; they are either
set in cabochon or as beads, rounded, oval, or elongated. All these forms,
and the colors used by the Chinese, lend themselves well to combinations

Page 516

with pearls; and hence pearls are often found in Chinese jewelry, especially
in those ornaments which are flexible and graceful, in which the pearls and
gems are strung on wire and allowed to swing freely with a gentle tinkle
when the wearer moves. This is not unlike the setting of such gems in
ancient Roman times. An admirable example is shown and described in
Bushell’s “Chinese Art” (Vol. II, plate 108, page 90). In this head-dress of a
Manchu lady, there are combined with the pearls, jadeite, amethyst, amber,
and coral, on a gilt silver openwork, with blue kingfisher feathers. This
great cap of state is an admirable example of pure Chinese design and
workmanship. The pendant strings of pearls are occasionally relieved by a
bit of carved jade, carnelian or coral, especially the latter. Another example,
the “cap of state” has silver-gilt openwork and immortelles (Taoist
symbols), and is much enhanced in beauty by a decoration or inlay of plates
of the beautiful blue feathers of the kingfisher, which are used so
extensively and effectively in Chinese jewelry. The pearls are scattered at
intervals over the cap, and ten strings of them hang from the sides of it. This
is believed to be of Manchu origin by Dr. Stephen W. Bushell, the great
Chinese scholar, to whom we are indebted for the use of the illustration. We
are also told that young ladies in China wear a sort of crown constructed of
pasteboard, covered with silk. This is adorned with pearls, diamonds, and
other jewels.[443]
The pearls on many Chinese ornaments were generally strung upon silk,
often with half a dozen or a dozen seed-pearls above and below the large
pearl, to hold the latter in place, and also to add a softness to the whole
jewel. The end pendant pearl, even if pear-shaped, was usually pierced
entirely through, and a wire that was worked through it was flattened out,
and this gold head was again ornamented in some way. A Chinese pendant
from the China-Japan war-loot offers an excellent illustration of this kind of
pearl-setting. This was preserved in a double box of finely carved gold.
The rosaries containing 104 pearls, which are used to-day, were
mentioned centuries ago by Marco Polo, and an excellent pearl string of this
kind has been in the Russian Treasury at Moscow for over two hundred
years. Dr. Stewart Culin, the archæologist, who has paid much attention to
Chinese customs, informs us that the black and white counters made for use
in games by the Chinese are called black and white pearls.

Page 517

Dr. T. Nishikawa writes us in 1908 that pearls were used in Japan for
ornamental purposes more than a thousand years ago. Large abalone pearls
are found in images of Buddha made in 300 A.D. Fresh-water pearls, usually
from Dipsas and Unio, were also used. A beautiful color-print was made by
Hoku’ai of the first pearl, called “tide-jewel” by the Japanese.
Most interesting pearls are those in a brooch in the British Museum,
which was discovered in 1839 while excavating a sewer opposite Ludgate
Hill in Thames Street, at the depth of about nine feet, in a dark-colored
artificial stratum of earth, unaccompanied by any remains that could aid in
throwing light upon its history. It is four inches and a half in circumference,
and is composed of a circular compartment an inch and a quarter in
diameter, set with variegated enamel, representing a full-faced head and
bust, with a crown on the head, and the drapery of a mantle, formed of
threads of gold effectively arranged so as to mark the features of the face
and the folds of the drapery; this is inclosed in a border of rich gold filigree
work, set at equal distances with four pearls.[444] Dr. Charles Roach Smith
attributes this brooch to the time of King Alfred, and supposes it to have
been executed in England by a foreign artist. He only ventures a conjecture
that the head might be that of King Alfred.
Crowns, both ancient and modern, are richly ornamented with pearls. We
shall treat of the crown of the Holy Roman Empire and of the imperial
Austrian crown in the following chapter. One of the most interesting and
ancient is the famous crown of Khusrau II (reigned 590–638), made in the
latter part of the sixth century, which was brought to light by Shah Abbas
after a thousand years of concealment in an obscure fortress among the
mountains of Lauristan. It does not contain diamonds among its ornaments,
but is incrusted with pearls and rubies.[445]
From the representation given on the cup of Khusrau, the throne of the
Sassanian Persian kings appears to have been as large as a couch; it was
supported by four winged animals, whose model had been borrowed by the
Sassanians from their ancestors, and it was covered with an embroidered
stuff thrown over mattresses and cushions. If we may believe Tabari
(“Chronicles,” trans. by Zotenberg, Vol. II, p. 304), this throne was of gold,
enriched with precious stones, and surmounted by a crown of gold and
pearls, so heavy that the sovereign could not wear it, and therefore had it
suspended above his head.[446]

Page 518

One of the crowns in the Hermitage at St. Petersburg was discovered in
1864 in a tumulus near Novo-Tcherkask, with many other valuable objects,
all of which had apparently been buried with some important personage.
This crown resembles somewhat that of Reccesvinthus in the treasure of
Guerrazar, although some portions of it seem to belong to the period of the
Roman empire. The conjecture has been made that the crown may have
been worn by a queen since it is decorated with a finely executed bust of a
woman in amethyst. The crown itself is of pure gold, and was bordered with
two rows of pearls, which have disappeared, leaving only the small disks to
which they were attached; besides these, it was ornamented with a number
of uncut precious stones. The date of this object cannot be exactly
determined, although the consensus of opinion is that it belongs to about the
third century after Christ. Possibly the bust and some other portions, which
appear to be of Greco-Roman workmanship, are of this period, while the
rest of the crown was executed one or two centuries later; it is about seven
inches in diameter and two in height.[447]
Toward the end of the year 1858 a French officer who lived in Spain,
while making some excavations on a property he owned there, discovered
fourteen small gold crowns. They were taken to the Spanish mint and are
said to have been melted for bullion. New excavations on the same spot
brought to light eight other crowns of considerable weight, of the finest
workmanship, and incrusted with precious stones, pearls, etc. There is no
doubt that these crowns were buried in the early years of the eighth century,
when the Arabs, led by Tarik, invaded Spain and forced the Gothic dynasty
to take refuge in the north of Europe. The importance of this discovery is
very great, since it gives us positive evidence of the development of the
goldsmith’s art in Spain at that early period. An inscription proves that one
of the crowns was dedicated in the second half of the seventh century, and it
is one of the few authentic memorials we possess of that epoch. In
February, 1859, the eight crowns were purchased by the French government
and placed in the Musée de Cluny. Two other crowns found in the same
place were added in 1860, and complete the collection.
The largest of these crowns is that of the Gothic king, Reccesvinthus,
who was King of Spain from 649 to 672. It is composed of a wide band of
solid gold, ten centimeters wide and twenty-one centimeters in diameter
(about four and eight inches respectively). This band, which opens by
means of a hinge, is surrounded by two borders of gold set with the red

Page 519

stones of Caria, called “gemmae alabandenses,” and the band itself is
studded with thirty large oriental sapphires of the greatest beauty. Thirty
fine pearls of appropriate size alternate with the sapphires on a ground
incrusted with the red stones above mentioned. From twenty-three small
gold chains depend large letters in cloisonné, and also incrusted, forming
the sentence: RECCESVINTHUS REX OFFERET. Each letter has a gold
pendant with a pearl from which hangs a pear-shaped sapphire.
The crown is suspended from four chains, converging to a double floral
ornament of solid gold, adorned with twelve sapphire pendants. This
ornament, the leaves of which are open, is surmounted by a capital of rock
crystal, then comes a ball of the same material, and the whole is terminated
by the gold center to which the four chains are attached.
The cross, which is suspended underneath the crown by a gold chain, is
remarkable for its elegance and its richness. It is of solid gold and is inlaid
with six very fine sapphires and eight large pearls, each of which is
mounted in relief with claws. At the back, the cross still bears the wire by
which it was attached to the royal mantle. The inside of the crown is quite
smooth; the outside is composed of elegant fleurettes in openwork, the
leaves being filled with the same species of red carnelian mentioned above.
There are thirty sapphires, all of the finest water, and a few of them show
the natural facetted crystallization; the two principal ones, placed in the
center of the band, are thirty millimeters in diameter. The pearls are of an
exceptional size, and only a few of them have been injured by time. The
total number on the crown, cross, and top ornament, is seventy, thirty of
which are unusually large. The chains are each composed of five openwork
ornaments with an enamel paste inlaid in the gold edge. A close
examination of the crown shows that it had been worn before the king
presented it to some church.
The royal Hungarian crown given to St. Stephen by the pope in the year
1000 A.D., when Hungary became an empire, is one of the most ancient
crowns in existence. It contains 320 pearls and was procured in Byzantium.
It was pledged to the emperor, Frederick IV, by Queen Elizabeth of
Hungary, probably about 1440.

Page 520

CROWN OF
RECCESVINTHUS AND
OTHER GOTHIC CROWNS
OF THE SEVENTH
CENTURY

From the treasure of
Guarrazar, near Toledo

Musée de Cluny, Paris

In the cathedral of Prague (the metropolitan church of St. Vitus) there
may be seen the crown which was made by the order of Charles IV (1378)
out of four pounds, ten and a quarter ounces of gold. It is adorned with
twenty-nine pearls, forty-seven rubies, twenty sapphires, and twenty-five
emeralds. The value of the gold and gems was estimated at $10,000 in
1898, which is probably less than it would be worth to-day. The sacred
crown worn by St. Wenceslaus was inserted within the crown of Charles IV
at the instance of Queen Blanca. The golden scepter and the golden orb are
of very beautiful workmanship. The scepter has six rubies, eight sapphires,
and thirty-one pearls. There may also be seen in the treasury a gilded
monstrance, in the style of the Renaissance, studded with pearls and
precious stones, a gift of the princely family of Schwarzenberg. Within the
same cathedral, in the tabernacle of the chapel of St. Ludmilla, wife of the
first Duke of Bohemia, is the head of that saint, bearing a crown studded
with 1800 pearls.[448]
The crown of Vladimir, with its singular and thoroughly Russian form, is
preserved in the treasury of the Kremlin at Moscow, and has been used at

Page 521

the coronation of all the Russian emperors. It has borne the name of the
crown or cap of Monomachus from the reign of Ivan IV. Although, to judge
from this designation, the crown was probably executed in the twelfth or
thirteenth century, there is a legend to the effect that it was sent, in 988,
from Byzantium by the ruler as a gift to St. Vladimir. It is executed in
filigree work, and is surmounted by a plain cross with four pearls at the
extremities; between these pearls are set a topaz, a sapphire, and a ruby. The
crown itself is ornamented with four emeralds, four rubies, and twenty-five
pearls from Ormus, set in gold. The cap has a bordering of sable fur, and is
lined with red satin. (See Maskell, “Russian Art,” London, 1884, p. 125.)
The imperial state crown of her Majesty Queen Victoria, was made in the
year 1838 by Messrs. Rondell and Bridge, with jewels taken from old
crowns, and others furnished by command of her Majesty. It consisted of
diamonds, pearls, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, set in silver and gold. It
had a crimson velvet cap with ermine border, and was lined with white silk.
Its gross weight was thirty-nine ounces five pennyweights troy. The lower
part of the band above the ermine border consisted of a row of 129 pearls,
and the upper part of a row of 112 pearls; between these rows, in the front
of the crown, was a large sapphire (partly drilled) purchased for the crown
by his Majesty George IV. In the front of the crown, and in the center of a
diamond Maltese cross, was the famous ruby said to have been given to
Edward, Prince of Wales (the Black Prince), by Don Pedro, King of Castile,
after the battle of Nájera, near Vittoria, 1367 A.D. This ruby was worn in the
helmet of Henry V at the battle of Agincourt, 1415 A.D. It was pierced quite
through, after the eastern custom, the upper part of the piercing being filled
up by a small ruby. From the Maltese cross issued four imperial arches
composed of oak leaves and acorns, thirty-two pearls forming the acorns.
From the upper part of the arches were suspended four large pendant, pear-
shaped pearls with rose diamond cups.[449] Writing in 1850, Barbot, the
French jeweler, placed the value of this crown at $600,000.
The crown of St. Edward, the official crown of England, is used at each
coronation.[450] The original crown of this name was destroyed by the
republicans in 1649, but at the time of the coronation of Charles II, another
crown was made to take its place, under the direction of Sir Robert Viner.
As far as can be known, this crown was an exact copy of the older one,
which was worn by Edward the Confessor, and perhaps even by King
Alfred. The crown in use at present is of gold, richly studded with pearls

Page 522

and precious stones of various kinds: diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and
sapphires. There is a mound of gold on top, and on this a cross of gold
ornamented with very large oval pearls, one attached to the top and the two
others pendant from the ends of the cross. The present arrangement of the
jewels cannot date back earlier than 1689, as the crown was found to be
despoiled of them at the time of the accession of William and Mary. Those
now in the crown are acknowledged to be inferior to the former ones.
The orb or mound which is placed in the king’s hand immediately after
his coronation, is a ball of gold, six inches in diameter, surrounded by a
band of the same metal ornamented with roses of diamonds set around other
precious stones, and bordered with pearls. It is surmounted by a cross,
embellished with four larger pearls at the angles near its center, and three
others at the ends. The orb, including the cross, is eleven inches high, and it
is figured on the coins of many of the English kings, who are represented
holding it in their left hands.
The regalia of Scotland,[451] consisting of the crown, scepter, and sword of
state, are preserved in the castle of Edinburgh. It is not certainly known at
what time this crown was executed. At the coronation of Robert Bruce
(1274–1329) a simple circlet of gold was used; this fell into the hands of the
English after the battle of Methven in 1306. In 1307 Edward I issued a
pardon at the request of his “beloved Queen Margarate,” to a certain
Galfredus de Coigniers, who was said to have concealed and kept “a certain
coronet of gold with which Robert the Bruce, enemy and rebel of the King,
had caused himself to be crowned in our own Kingdom of Scotland.”

Page 523

Photograph by W.
& D. Downey,
London

HER MAJESTY, QUEEN
ALEXANDRA OF GREAT
BRITAIN AND IRELAND,
EMPRESS OF INDIA

Sir Walter Scott, in his account of the regalia, gives it as his opinion that
the present crown was probably made for Robert Bruce at a later date, and
that it was used at the coronation of his son, David II (1324–1376). The
style of workmanship indicates a fourteenth-century origin. The crown was
originally open and was arched over by James V (1512–1542). As Scott
notes, this was done to many royal crowns in the fifteenth and sixteenth
centuries, in order to assimilate them to the type of the old imperial crowns.
The following description is slightly abridged from that given by Sir
Walter Scott:
The lower part consists of two circles, the undermost much broader than that which rises over it;
both are of the purest gold and the uppermost is surmounted by a range of fleur-de-lis interchanged
with crosses fleurées, and with knobs or pinnacles of gold topped with large pearls; this produces a
very rich effect. The under and broader circle is adorned with twenty-two precious stones, betwixt
each of which is interposed an oriental pearl. The stones are topazes, amethysts, emeralds, rubies and
jacinths; they are not polished by the lapidary, or cut into facets in the more modern fashion, but are
set plain, in the ancient style of jewellers’ work. The smaller circle is adorned with small diamonds
and sapphires alternately. These two circles, thus ornamented, seem to have formed the original
Diadem or Crown of Scotland, until the reign of James V, who added two imperial arches rising from

Page 524

the circle, and crossing each other, closing at the top in a mound of gold, which again is surmounted
by a large cross patée ornamented with pearls and bearing the characters J.R.V. These additional
arches are attached to the original crown by tacks of gold, and there is some inferiority in the quality
of the metal.
The bonnet or tiara worn under the crown was anciently of purple, but is now of crimson velvet,
turned up with ermine—a change first adopted in the year 1695. The tiara is adorned with four superb
pearls set in gold, and fastened in the velvet which appears between the arches. The crown measures
about nine inches in diameter, twenty-seven in circumference, and about six and a half in height from
the bottom of the lower circle to the top of the cross.
The scepter, made by order of James V at the time he added the arches to
the crown, is a slender silver rod about thirty-nine inches long. An antique
capital of embossed leaves supports three small figures representing the
Virgin Mary, St. Andrew, and St. James, above which is a crystal ball,
surmounted by an oriental pearl.
The regalia have passed through many vicissitudes. After the execution
of Charles I, his son Charles II was crowned King of Scotland at Scone on
January 1, 1651. On the advance of the parliamentary army into Scotland,
the regalia were placed in the care of the Earl Mareschal who preserved
them in his castle of Dunrottar, and here they were kept until the castle was
besieged and on the point of falling into the hands of the English. In this
extremity, they were rescued by Christian Fletcher, wife of the Rev. James
Granger, minister of Kinneff. She obtained permission from the English
general to pay a visit to the Lady Mareschal and succeeded in carrying off
the regalia. Her husband buried them in the church of Kinneff, just in front
of the pulpit. When they were brought to light again after the Restoration,
an Act of Parliament was passed which, after reciting Christian Fletcher’s
services in the matter, stated: “Therefore, the King’s Majestie, with advice
of his estates in Parliament, doe appoint Two Thousand Merks Scots to be
forthwith paid unto her by his Majestie’s thresaurer, out of the readiest of
his Majestie’s rents, as a testimony of their sense of her service.”
In 1707, after the union of England and Scotland, it was considered wiser
to remove the regalia from public view, since they were calculated to arouse
memories of the old Scotch monarchy. These precious objects were
therefore inclosed in a chest, which was their usual receptacle, and locked
up in the crown-room, a strong vaulted apartment in Edinburgh Castle.
There the regalia remained until 1817, when, as doubts had been expressed
as to their existence, a commission of investigation was appointed, one of
the members being Sir Walter Scott. The chest—which had probably been

Page 525

the jewel-safe of the Stuarts—was forced open, and the regalia were found
within, just as they had been deposited in 1707.
An imperial German crown does not exist; a design has been made and
accepted, but at the present date, 1907, it has not yet been executed. On
festive occasions, when the imperial insignia are necessary, the Prussian
insignia are used, especially the Prussian royal crown. This consists of a
circlet of gold set with thirteen diamonds. On this are five leaves, each
composed of three larger diamonds and a smaller one, and four prongs, each
bearing a diamond and above it a large pearl. From the five leaves start the
same number of semicircular arches, tapering toward the central point,
where they unite. Each of these is set with ten diamonds of decreasing size.
On the center rests an imperial globe. It consists of a large Indian-cut
sapphire,—the counterpart of the one on the Austrian imperial crown,
evidently dating from the time of the Crusades,—and above it rises a
chaplet ornamented with diamonds. The crown has a lining of purple velvet
reaching to the arches. Between the arches are eight pearl pendants of an
average weight of 80 grains; they are 25 millimeters in length, and have a
fine, brilliant white color, although they are not perfectly regular in form.
In addition there belongs to the regalia a pearl necklace of three rows; the
first consists of thirty-seven pearls averaging 28 grains each; the second of
thirty-nine pearls averaging 34 grains, and the third of forty-five pearls
averaging 39 grains. There is also a guard chain of 114 pearls, averaging 20
grains, making a total of 2280 grains for the chain. These pearls are also of
irregular form.[452]
The crown jewels of the Sultan Abdul-Aziz (1830–1876) were of
immense richness and value. At the exhibition in Vienna, 1873, many of
these were exhibited in a building created specially for the purposes of
display and protection. They were in five compartments, in what might be
termed five impregnable fire-proof safes of a peculiar construction. Among
other interesting objects was the armor of Sultan Murad I (1319–1389), the
founder of the Ottoman empire in Europe. This armor is of the most delicate
oriental workmanship. Diamonds, pearls, and rubies are worked broadcast
over it with exquisite taste.[453]
In Germany and Austro-Hungary there are many valuable ecclesiastical
ornaments, some of which possess great interest for the history of early

Page 526

German art. They also serve to show the appreciation of the pearl even in
the Dark Ages and the Early Renaissance period.
One of the most curious productions of early German art is a reliquary in
the form of a sack, which is from Enger near Herford, and is exhibited in
the Kunstgewerbe Museum in Berlin. It is set with cameos and pearls;
several of the latter have dropped out; a few, however, remain in their
setting. According to a very probable tradition, this reliquary was given by
Charlemagne to the Saxon duke, Wittekind, on the occasion of his baptism
in 785. It is of very rude and primitive workmanship and, if we accept the
tradition, it is not unlikely that it was executed at Aix-la-Chapelle.[454]
An interesting example of German art, from the time of Archbishop
Egbert of Treves (977–993), is a frame now in the Beuth-Schinkel Museum,
at Charlottenburg. This was probably the framework of a portable altar. It is
decorated with a simple geometrical design in the three primary colors, and
has four polished stones and four pearls on the outer border of gold filigree.
Another example of the art of Treves at the time of Archbishop Egbert is the
Echternacher Codex. The gold-plated cover is a worthy product of the
school: ivory, enamel, and mosaic are combined in its decoration with rows
of pearls. Among the representations of many saints, appears the figure of
the Empress Theophanu, daughter of the Greek emperor, Romanos II, with
the inscription “Theophaniu imp.” Opposite is a youthful figure, probably
that of her son, Otho III. It seems likely that the work was executed, at the
command of the empress, between 983 and 991.[455]
In the cathedral of Treves is the portable altar known as the altar of St.
Andrew. This was primarily a reliquary and secondarily an altar. In memory
of the relic of the sandal of St. Andrew, which was greatly prized by
Archbishop Egbert, this altar bears the representation of a foot executed in
wood and covered with plates of gold. The front of the case is divided into
three fields; that in the middle containing a Byzantine lion in gold relief,
and the others the symbols of the four evangelists in enamel work. The
border is formed of rectangular pieces of enamel and smaller ones of gold,
and it is set with round stones alternating with half-pearls; the ends are
covered with filigree and enamel work wherein are embedded strings of
pearls. A coin of Justinian II is set in the middle of the back of the case and
is surrounded by a wreath of larger pearls.[456]

Page 527

A gold cross, the work of Rogkerus Theophilus, is in the Kunstgewerbe
Museum in Berlin, and comes from Herford. The frame, which is of wood,
is covered with plates of gold; at the extremities and in the center are
groups of precious stones surrounded by pearls; at the base is a fine
Augustan cameo with a wreath of pearls; the entire cross is covered with
filigree work and decorated with pearls in groups of threes. The
arrangement of the precious stones, and the enhancement of their beauty by
means of the circles of pearls, are highly artistic. As a work of Rogkerus,
this cross must have been executed at the very end of the eleventh century
and it may be regarded as one of the finest examples of the art of this
period.[457]
A very rich collection of ecclesiastical ornaments is contained in the
treasury of the cathedral of Gran in Hungary.[458] One of the most interesting
objects is a reliquary in the form of a Latin cross, which is of great
historical and artistic value. An inventory made after 1528 describes it
briefly: “crux aurea continens lignum vitae” (a gold cross containing the
wood of life). Although this reliquary probably belongs to the end of the
twelfth century, the inventory of 1659 describes it as a gift of King Stephen,
and proceeds to say that the kings of Hungary took their coronation oath
upon it. This custom has been preserved to the present day, and Emperor
Francis Joseph, on the occasion of his coronation as King of Hungary, June
8, 1867, swore, upon this cross, to uphold the constitution and the laws of
the land. The cross is decorated with plates of gold in filigree design, and
has four en cabochon cut sapphires and eighteen oriental pearls.
The greatest treasure of the collection is known as the cross of Corvinus,
King of Hungary, and is decorated with a great number of pearls.[459] It is a
remarkable example of early Italian Renaissance art. The entire structure is
about twenty-eight inches high; the pedestal is triangular and ornamented
with pearls and precious stones; three sphinxes bearing shields with the
arms of Corvinus support a disk from which springs a triangular support
sloping outward; on the three sides are mythological figures. Upon this base
rests the chapel, a light Gothic structure with the figure of the Saviour
bound to a pillar in the center, and the busts of three prophets in the niches
outside. Above all is the crucifix, on each side of which are figures of the
Blessed Virgin and of St. John. Around the base and about each division of
this elaborate design is a row of pearls; the Gothic chapel is surmounted by
a close-set row, and each of its six pinnacles terminates in an oval pearl.

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The cross itself has fifteen large pearls disposed in twos and threes, and
many smaller ones. There are at least two hundred pearls on the whole
structure.
Another cross, with the arms of the primate, George Szolepchényi, and
bearing the date 1667, is of pure design and richly decorated with pearls
and precious stones.[460] It is quite possible that this cross, which seems to
belong to a better period, was bought by the archbishop, who afterward
added his arms. There are thirteen oriental pearls, three at the top, three at
the end of each of the arms, and four at the intersection. This cross was used
as an “instrumentum pacis,” for the kiss of peace, on solemn occasions such
as coronations.
We may also note the pendant with the image of the Virgin Mary as
patroness of Hungary, which is of gold enamel and has two pendant pearls
and a sapphire, and likewise the pectoral cross of the primate, Emerich
Losy; this is of gold, decorated with green, blue, and black enamel, and has
three pendant pear-shaped pearls, one quite large, as well as thirty-four
smaller round pearls.
Among the many valuable and interesting objects in the treasury of the
house and chapel of Maria Loretto am Hradschin,[461] at Prague, there is a
monstrance of silver-gilt, thirty-seven and a half inches high and fifteen and
three quarter inches wide. It dates from the beginning of the eighteenth
century, and is not a harmonious whole, but only a combination of different
ornaments of precious stones, corals, and several hundred pearls of various
sizes. All these are the devotional offerings of now unknown givers, and
many of the pieces are of artistic workmanship. This monstrance owes its
origin to Josef von Bilin, who was a monk of the Capuchin order and a
sacristan of Maria Loretto. On account of the many pearls which adorn it, it
is known by the name of the “Pearl Monstrance.”
Another monstrance of Arabic gold, of the year 1680, is twenty inches
high and is studded with fifty-one pearls, of which twenty-nine surround the
disk, while the remainder are on the plate and the base. There are also two
crowns of silver-gilt for the statues of the Virgin and of the Infant Jesus.
The larger of these crowns has eighteen diamonds, a ruby, and 102 pearls
set in two rows; while the smaller has nineteen diamonds and a great
number of pearls; both crowns are made up of the offerings of the faithful.

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In a historic description of the pearls in the treasury of the Kremlin,
Margeret, a Burgundian captain (“Estat de l’empire de Russie,” 1649), says
that the treasury was “full of all kinds of jewels, principally pearls, for they
are worn in Russia more than in the rest of Europe. I have seen fifty
changes of raiment for the emperors around each of which there were
jewels for a bordering, and the robes were entirely bordered with pearls,
some with a border of pearls measuring a foot, half a foot, or four inches in
width. I have seen dozens of bed-coverings embroidered with pearls.”[462]
In the treasury of the celebrated Troiza Monastery near Moscow, there is
an immense collection of ornamental objects for ecclesiastical use, the
value of which has been estimated at many millions of rubles. Here may be
seen miters and bishops’ crooks—many of them of solid gold and set with
precious stones—Bibles and missals in golden bindings, priestly vestments,
altar-cloths, etc., all literally covered with pearls. There is also a dish filled
with large pearls of enormous value.[463]
The use of fresh-water pearls in one of the most interesting ecclesiastical
objects of antiquity is shown in the “Shrine of St. Patrick’s Gospels,” which
is in the Dublin Museum. It was purchased by the Irish Royal Academy in
1845 for £300 ($1500). This shrine, known as the “domnach airgid,” is of
Irish manufacture and was perhaps made in the eleventh or twelfth century.
It was found in the neighborhood of Clones, in County Monaghan, and is
ornamented with three bosses which contained uncut crystals, and are
decorated with figures of grotesque animals and traceries enameled in blue
paste; between these may be seen representations of four horsemen. On
each of the four corners there was a fresh-water pearl, one of which still
remains in its setting. According to George Petrie, LL.D., in his “Christian
Inscriptions in the Irish Language,” the shrine bears an inscription to the
effect that it was made by John O’Barrdan at the instance of John O’Carbry,
Abbot of Clones, who died in 1353.

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CROWN OF ST. EDWARD

The official crown of England

Dr. R. F. Scharff informs us that there is also in the Dublin Museum a
modern Celtic gold brooch, presented to Queen Victoria on the occasion of
her visit to Ireland in 1849, and containing a pearl of beautiful luster,
discovered in Lough Esk, which is in the western part of Ireland. Dr.
Scharff says that this pearl is undoubtedly from the Margaritifera
margaritifera.
Mr. W. Forbes Howie of Dublin writes that the shrine of O’Donnel, made
in 1084, originally contained pearls. It still retains some pieces of amber
and coral. Mr. Howie believes that fresh-water pearls were freely used in
the decoration of ancient Irish shrines.
The inventories of jewels and ornaments belonging to the kings and
queens of France, to the nobility, and to the treasures of the Sainte-
Chapelle, in Paris, and of the abbey and church of St. Denis, all mention a
large number of objects decorated with pearls.[464] The more important of
these are given below.
The following ornaments decorated with pearls are mentioned in the
inventory of Louis, Duke of Anjou, which was made circa 1360:[465]
A large silver-gilt foot for a vase or chalice, resting upon six lions couchant, and set with groups of
four pearls with a garnet in the middle.
A half girdle of gold with a hinge bearing two ornaments, one a balas set between two eagles.
Between the ornaments is a gold bar set with eight pearls in two rows. In front is a clasp with a large
sapphire in the middle, surrounded by two balases and two sapphires alternating with pearls.
A gold brooch having a balas-ruby in the middle, and at each side four sapphires and four clusters
each of five quite large pearls.

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A gold brooch of a very pretty design, with five balas-rubies, two sapphires, and eight very round
pearls weighing about four carats each. At each end of the brooch is a flat pearl weighing about five
carats.
There is in the Bibliothèque Nationale[466] in Paris, the original record of
the execution of the testament of the Comte de Montpensier, son of the Duc
de Berri. This document was written in 1398, and it mentions that the sale
of the jewels and plate of the count produced the sum of “2390 livres
tournois 11 sols 3 deniers [about $8265].” In the record we have a
description of “a large gold cup, weighing 5 marcs, 7 ounces, 1 gros [nearly
3 lbs.], whereon there is a crown of precious stones.” The decoration of the
cup comprised thirty large pearls, six balas-rubies, and four sapphires, and
we are told that the Duc de Berri retained it for his own use.
An early mention of the use of pearls in rings occurs in the inventory of
the Duc de Berri,[467] to whom we have just referred. This inventory, which
was made in 1416, notes a gold ring with black enamel, set with a pearl
called “the great pearl of Berri.”
The inventory of the personal property of Marguerite, Countess of
Flanders, the mother of the Duke of Burgundy, was made in 1405.[468] In this
inventory we have a list of an immense number of ornamental objects of
every sort and kind, and everything, from the ducal crown to the smallest
trinket, is garnished with pearls. In most cases the number of pearls is
given, and we find that no less than 4494 are enumerated. Evidently the
duchess was ever ready to honor the precious gem to which she owed her
name, and fully recognized its poetical significance. The following are a
few of the more noteworthy ornaments in the inventory:
The circlet of the great crown, composed of eight sections; four of which each comprise sixteen
pearls, four diamonds, and four balas-rubies, with a sapphire in the center; the four others contain
sixteen pearls, four diamonds, and four sapphires, with a balas-ruby in the center; beside this there
are two pearls in each section. Also, eight large fleurons of the great crown, four of which bear each
twenty-three pearls, five diamonds, three balas-rubies and a sapphire, and the other four each twenty-
three pearls, five diamonds, four sapphires, and a balas-ruby; and eight small fleurons of the said
crown garnished each with a pearl, a sapphire, and a balas-ruby. The whole is valued at 8724 florins
($22,682).
A gold cap with ten large ornaments fashioned like brooches, five of which are each of six pearls
and a balas-ruby, and the other five each of five pearls and two balas-rubies, and between each
ornament there is a balas-ruby. This is appraised at 2159 florins ($5613).
A head-dress garnished with balas-rubies and sapphires and tassels of large pearls, each of six
pearls, and with a row of larger balas-rubies, larger sapphires and larger pearls. This was estimated at
2030 florins ($5278).
A gold necklace, enameled white and green, garnished with nine rubies, thirteen diamonds and
thirteen pearls, with a clasp of three small rubies, and three large pearls with one large diamond in the

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center. The worth of this necklace is given as 1923 florins ($5000).
The jewels and ornamental objects in this inventory are appraised at the sum of 56,129 florins,—
about $145,000,—equivalent to a much larger sum to-day in consideration of the greater purchasing
power of money in the fifteenth century.
In 1480, during the reign of Louis XI, an inventory was made of the
objects preserved in the treasury of the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris.[469] We
select the following items from this inventory:
A very beautiful cross, covered with gold, bearing on one side a crystal reliquary which contained
a piece of the True Cross. On supports attached to the cross were images of the Virgin Mary and of
St. John, each holding a reliquary. The cross itself rested on a square silver-gilt base bearing the
images of the four evangelists. The ornamentation consisted of fifty large Scotch pearls and 142
small ones, intermixed with garnets and emeralds; there were also many balas-rubies and sapphires
of different sizes. The inventory says: “The goldsmith Nicholas Roet declares that the stones are
genuine and that the pearls are from Scotland.”
Another gold cross, resting on a silver-gilt base which bore the arms of France and Burgundy, was
decorated with fourteen sapphires, twenty balas-rubies, and twenty-four Scotch pearls. On the base
were the figures of St. Louis and of the queen, kneeling in prayer.
Still another cross, covered with gold and of Venetian workmanship, bore thirty-nine pearls,
twenty-seven balas-rubies, and four sapphires. A clasp attached to this cross was set with four large
perforated pearls surrounded by small emeralds and sapphires.
A silver-gilt ornament, consisting of a golden image of St. Louis seated on a silver throne and
holding in his hand a reliquary decorated with twelve pearls, six emeralds, and six Alexandrian
rubies. The crown of the image was set with four large oriental pearls, three balas-rubies, etc.
An ivory image of the Virgin Mary, supported by a silver-gilt base with the arms of France. This
base was borne by four lions. On the head of the Virgin was a crown of gold adorned with eight large,
round, oriental pearls and four small ones, as well as four emeralds and four balas-rubies. On the
breast of the image was a very large, square emerald.
A splendid miter studded with good-sized pearls and decorated with emeralds, rubies, sapphires,
and balas-rubies. The pendants were covered with seed-pearls and precious stones.
A fine chasuble of Indian satin lined with crimson taffeta and covered with lilies, birds, unicorns,
etc., embroidered in gold and pearls. It was also adorned with small clusters of pearls and with two
shields bearing the arms of France and Navarre, quartered.
A beautiful copy of the gospels with covers of gold, ornamented with fourteen large sapphires,
thirteen balas-rubies, two cameos, and eighty-nine good-sized pearls.
The following items are taken from the inventory of the treasury of the
abbey of St. Denis, made in 1534, during the reign of Francis I. This record
is in the Bibliothèque Nationale, in Paris:[470]
A crown of gold, with four fleurons, garnished with several balas-rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and
pearls; valued at 59,980 crowns (about $135,000).
A golden cross and within it a piece of the True Cross which belonged to “Jeanne d’Evreux, royne
de France et de Navarre,” valued, with the pearls that decorate it, at 345 crowns ($776).
A wooden chest containing eleven cases in which were many precious stones and large and small
pearls, both oriental and Scotch; valued at 1858 crowns ($4180).
A number of priestly vestments embroidered with seed-pearls are inventoried at 1200 crowns
($2700).

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A blue satin chasuble bordered with pearls is valued at 350 crowns ($787).
An altar-table, set in the “grand altar,” is described as elaborately decorated with “arches and
pillars and images of gold” in low relief, and garnished with precious stones and pearls. The value is
given as 1203 crowns ($2700).
Another altar-table similarly ornamented is valued at 2645 crowns ($5850). Above this table was a
great cross of gold with a silver border, called the “cross of St. Eloysius” (the patron saint of
goldsmiths); this was valued at 2291 crowns ($5154).
Over the sarcophagus containing the body of St. Denis, there was “a large tabernacle of wood-
work resembling a church, with a lofty nave and low arches.” In this nave and in the transepts there
were three representations of sarcophagi; the whole was covered with gold, precious stones, and
pearls, and was valued at 7275 crowns ($16,368).
The head of St. Denis, incased in gold, was borne by two silver-gilt angels, while a third held a
small shrine containing a portion of the jaw-bone of the saint. All these objects were studded with
precious stones and pearls, and were valued at 5622 crowns ($12,650).
There were also in the treasury several miters covered with “ounce-pearls” and decorated with
gold and silver bands; on this field several larger pearls were set. One of these miters is valued at 964
crowns ($2169) and another at 509 crowns ($1135).
The total value of the articles inventoried is 185,500 crowns (at least $417,375).
Inventories of the property of the dukes of Lorraine, dated 1544, 1552,
and 1614, mention a number of pearl ornaments. In the inventory of 1544,
made about the time of the accession of Francis I of Lorraine, we read of “a
very fine case of silver-gilt around which are thirteen personages in gold,
and on the lock three balases and five pearls.” The inventory of 1552, made
while Charles II was duke, mentions “a cap of crimson velvet whereon
there are large pearls,” and another cap “entirely covered with pearls.” It is,
however, in the inventory of 1614, made a few years after the accession of
Henry II of Lorraine, that we find the greatest number of items relating to
pearls. An estimate of the value of the rings and jewels was “faicte du
commandement de son Altèze par jouailliers et Lapidaires et Espertz dudit
ars.” All these jewels were to remain forever the property of the Duchy of
Lorraine. Among the items relating to pearls, the following are worthy of
note:
A gold collar with seven settings, each containing one large diamond and two large pearls. The
diamond in the center was believed to weigh fifteen carats, and the collar was valued at 35,000
crowns (about $70,000).
Another collar contained seven diamonds and sixteen pearls set in pairs, and was considered to be
worth 19,750 crowns (about $40,000).
A collection of one hundred large pearls, some weighing twenty grains, some twenty-four, some
twenty-eight, and a few thirty-two grains, were estimated at 12,000 crowns ($24,000).
A large pearl, very nearly pear-shaped and almost as large as a pigeon’s egg, was set down at 2000
crowns ($4000).
A very fine pear-shaped pearl weighing forty-eight grains was valued at 800 crowns ($1600).

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Another pear-shaped pearl weighing about thirty-two grains was placed at 500 crowns ($1000).
Four other pear-shaped pearls, nearly as large as the one above mentioned, were estimated at 300
crowns ($600), while a round “pearl of Seville” was valued at only fifty crowns ($100).
Six clusters of pearls, each containing two of fourteen grains, and four of eight grains, were
thought to be worth 700 crowns ($1400).
A large chalice was decorated with seven large oriental emeralds and eight clusters, each
composed of fourteen fine, round pearls, six of twelve grains and eight of eight grains; the whole
valued at 2400 crowns ($4800).
A hat ornament composed of eleven fine rubies and ten large, round pearls, each weighing twelve
grains, was estimated at 800 crowns ($1600).
A similar ornament, composed of thirteen rubies and fourteen pearls, partly flat and partly round,
was placed at 2000 crowns ($4000).
A collar set with seven fine rubies and the same number of round pearls, each weighing twelve
grains, and with seven other pendant pearls, was valued at 550 crowns ($1100).
There was also a bed called the “bed of pearls,” which was elaborately decorated with
ornamentation in gold and richly studded with pearls.
The inventory made in 1634 of the ornaments, etc., contained in the
abbey of St. Denis, offers some new material and a fuller description of a
few of the objects mentioned in the inventory of 1534. The most
noteworthy entries are given below:
A golden scepter upon a staff of wood. The scepter bears the figure of Charlemagne seated upon a
throne; at the corners are two lions and two eagles (one of the latter was lacking in 1634). The figure
holds a scepter in its right hand, and a globe surmounted by a cross in its left; on its head is a crown
with a large, round, oriental pearl valued at 200 livres ($135). The throne rested on a fleur-de-lys,
beneath which was a ball of gold ornamented with eight oriental pearls. Around the throne was the
inscription: “Sanctus Carolus Magnus Italia Roma Gallia Germania,” and three clusters of three
pearls each. The value of this scepter was given at 3300 livres, or about $2200.
The reliquary of the hand of St. Thomas. Two angels, resting on a silver-gilt base, bore the crystal
receptacle containing the relic. The ornamentation consisted of eight clusters of four large pearls
each, with a small diamond in the center. On the hand was a gold band bearing the inscription: “Hic
est manus beati Thomae apti. quam misit in latus domini nostri Jesu Christi.” On the hand was a
pontifical ring set with a large sapphire. The reliquary also bore the images of St. John the Baptist, of
St. Thomas, and of the Virgin Mary. It was valued at 5590 livres, or about $3700.
A vessel made of a porphyry resembling jasper and embellished with forty-six pearls; estimated at
1500 livres ($1000).
A cope given by Anne of Bretagne, Queen of France, and bearing six scenes from the life of the
Virgin Mary embroidered in gold and pearls; the whole bordered with pearls and gold of Cyprus. On
the cope were the letters A and S, and the words “plutost mourir.” There were two ounces of pearls.
Valued at 2000 livres ($1350).
A vase of rock crystal, of antique workmanship, with a cover and base of silver-gilt; the top
decorated with a band of amethysts, garnets, and sapphires, alternating with Scotch and oriental
pearls. On the base are various precious stones and twenty-three Scotch and oriental pearls, and the
inscription “Hoc vas sponsa dedit Anor. regi Ludovico.” This vase was given by Eleanor of Aquitaine
to her husband, Louis VII of France (1137–1180), by whom it was bestowed upon Suger, Abbot of
St. Denis (1082–1152). The goldsmith work and decoration belong to the time of Suger. The vase is
now in the Louvre.

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A chalice of agate, with two handles, and engraved with the figures of men, animals, and birds. It
stood on a foot of gold adorned with sixteen sapphires, forty-four pearls, and twenty-two clusters of
fourteen pearls each. This chalice rested upon a paten of porphyry decorated with seven fishes inlaid
in gold, and with a bordering of pearls and precious stones disposed around the edge. Both together
valued at 25,000 livres (about $16,000).

THE EMPRESS DOWAGER
OF CHINA

From a portrait painted by
Miss Katharine A. Carl

A vase of agate with a foot of silver-gilt, and furnished with a cover and a spout in the form of a
serpent, both of silver-gilt. Around the base an inscription: “Dum libare deo gemmis debemus et
auro, Hoc ego Sugerus offero vas domino” (Since we should pour libations to God out of gems and
gold, I, Suger, offer this vessel to the Lord). This vase, which is now in the Louvre and is of
sardonyx, was enriched with many precious stones and with nineteen Scotch and oriental pearls. The
value given was 1500 livres (about $1000).
A book beginning: “Kyrie Eleison,” with covers of wood, one overlaid with gold and the other
with silver. On the golden cover was an ivory crucifix, and images, in ivory, of the Virgin Mary and
of St. John. The cross was bordered with seed-pearls, as were the diadems of the images. The cover
was also decorated with an engraved crysolite, an engraved peridot, and with sapphires, emeralds,
and garnets.[471]
A curious item regarding the use of pearls in embroidery is contained in
one of the inventories of the dukes of Burgundy, made in 1414; this reads as
follows:
The sum of 276 livres 7 sols 6 deniers tournois (about $960), the price of 960 pearls destined to
ornament a dress; along the sleeves are embroidered the words of the song “Madame, je suis

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joyeulx,” and the notes are also marked along the sleeves. On each sleeve are 264 pearls which help
in forming the notes of the said song, numbering 142; that is to say, a square made of four pearls for
each note.[472]
Mention is made in two old French documents of the use of pearls from
Compiegne in ornamentation. In the “Inventaire de la royne Clémence,” in
1328, we read of “a cock covered with precious stones and bearing a pearl
of Compiègne”; and in the “Comptes Royaux,” under date of 1353, appears
this item: “For four pearls, oriental, Scotch and of Compiègne, for the said
arm-chair, 48 crowns.” As these pearls could not have been found in
Compiègne, we may suppose that there was a market for their sale in that
place, which gave rise to the designation.[473]
The English authority and writer on early English silver, F. Alfred Jones,
communicated, under date of September, 1907, that pearls were rarely used
in old English plate; in fact, any such embellishments were of exceedingly
infrequent occurrence. They are, however, frequently mentioned in the
inventory of the marvelous collection of gold plate dispersed by Charles I
of England, which may have dated from the time of the looting of the
churches and monasteries by Henry VIII.
The following items are from the inventories of Philip II of Spain and of
Margarita, wife of Philip III. The original documents are in the Austrian
archives.
A golden cup which came from England. Around the foot was a wreath of fifteen fleurons, each
containing pearls, and also four St. Andrew’s crosses comprising eighteen pearls each. The interior of
the cup showed scenes from the life of St. George and was studded with pearls, while thirty-one pearl
pendants hung from the edge. 11,897 reals (about $1700).[474]
Some curious jewels, belonging to Queen Margarita, wife of Philip III of
Spain, were entered in an inventory made in 1611.
An imperial eagle, full of diamonds, that came from England, with two pendants of two pearls,
which could be unhooked from the said eagle and were worn by her Majesty at two masks as
earrings. Valued at 77,000 reals (about $11,000).
Gold earrings, enameled in various colors, with seven diamonds in each one and three pendant
pearls, two small ones of equal size and the other shaped like a pear. Valued at 1320 reals ($188).[475]
In the older Spanish jewelry pearls were frequently entirely pierced
through, as if they had been worn in necklaces; and if hung as drops of one
to three or more, they were strung on a wire, the upper end usually forming
an ornament, and they were kept from falling off below by flattening the
lower end of the wire, this flattening acting as a stop. These styles have a
marked resemblance to the oriental methods elsewhere described, and
suggest the derivation of the early Spanish pearl mounting from the

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Moorish occupation of the country. If they were set singly on any part of the
jewel, they were put on a wire peg fastened to it, and then the end of the
wire which projected was hammered flat to keep the pearl in place.
Excellent examples of these styles are the Spanish earrings in the collection
of the Hispano-American Museum of New York. The same method was
used in Transylvania in the seventeenth century with remarkably artistic
effect.
The pearls of the Virgin of the Rosary in the church of St. Domingo,
Lima, were famous. It is believed that they were sold in the war of
independence. Those of the monstrance in the sanctuary of the cathedral of
Lima were sold during the last war with Chile. The monstrance of the
cathedral of Cuzco still shows pearls and emeralds, but they are of small
size.
A lady who left a great fortune in pearls to the church of Nazareno and
the House of the Poor of the church of St. Peter, Lima, was Doña Maria
Fernandez de Córdoba, from the family of Borda, grandmother to the
minister of Peru in Washington. She was a descendant of Hernan Cortés and
of Pizarro by her ancestor Carmen Cortés.
The pearls of Lima figure prominently in the history of the Peruvian
families. The war of independence, which ended in 1822, was followed by
the suppression of the entailed estates; this forced a division of the family
fortunes, and it became necessary to sell the family jewels in Europe.
Thither went all the famous pearls of the Peruvian aristocracy, whose
luxury is proven by the fact that in 1780 there were in Lima no less than
two thousand private carriages.
One of the most remarkable uses of Bohemian pearls was that of a large
triptych owned by Count Moritz of Lobkowitz and Duke of Raudnitz. It
measured six or more feet in height. The entire borders were ornamented
with pearls. The center of the triptych represented the ascension of Christ
on a chariot drawn by lambs. In the panel to the right was the Angel
Gabriel, and to the left the Virgin Mary praying. The borders and lettering
were magnificently embroidered and decorated in Bohemian pearls. This
object probably dated from the sixteenth or early part of the seventeenth
century. It was estimated by one of the authors to contain at least one
hundred thousand pearls.

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Madame Zelie Nuttal, the great Maya scholar, personally writes that
pearls are not mentioned either as articles of tribute or of decoration in
ancient Mexican codices; possibly a lack of fine, hard instruments with
which to drill holes in pearls may have caused them to be comparatively
little used in personal adornment. Neither do they appear to have been
found incrusted in prehistoric objects, and we have no written evidence of
their having been used in this way. We do not know of any instances of the
wearing of pearls by the Indian women, but the women of the higher classes
used to wear them profusely, more especially drop-earrings and pendants.
Madame Nuttal also communicates as follows:
Bernadino de Sahagun states: “There are also pearls in New Spain, and they are familiar to
everybody. They are named epyollotti,[476] which means the heart of the shell, because they are
formed in the shell of the oyster.” In Molina’s dictionary “seed-pearls” are named “piciltic
epyollotti,” which means “water-stars,” a poetical name, composed of the word a = att = water, and
cittallin = star. The latter name leads us to infer the possibility that the “star-skirt, or skirt of, or with
stars,” the “cittallin icue” of the living image of the goddess “Tlamateculitti” was decorated with
pearls, although it is only described (Book II, chap. 36) as being “of leather, cut into strips at the
bottom (forming a fringe), at the end of each of which hung a small shell named ‘cueclitti’ which
reproduced a sound when she walked.” As it is stated that this “star-skirt” was worn over “a white
one” it seems as though it must have been of the kind, represented in codices and sculptures, made of
openwork and netlike, and studded with round objects—possibly pearls—at the crossings or in the
centers of the open spaces.
Oil-paintings of the madonnas represent them with robes richly
embroidered with pearls, and wearing “ropes of pearls.” The Virgin of the
Rosario, in the church at Santo Domingo, Mexico, was noted for her pearls,
and there is a small oil-painting of this virgin, in which she is depicted with
a wealth of pearls.
In the Bohemian National Exposition, held at Prague in 1891, Count
Schwarzenberg exhibited four embroideries, each fourteen by eight inches.
They were embroidered with Bohemian pearls found on his domains a
century or more previous, and contained many thousands of pearls.
In Hungary pearls have always been the favorite jewels, especially
among the aristocracy, and they have served to adorn the national costume
of both men and women. A century ago nearly every family of distinction
owned a necklace, but most of the pearls were small and of indifferent
quality. Since that time fine pearls have become more usual, and many
wealthy Hungarian families have acquired beautiful pearls of good size and
excellent quality, and many splendid necklaces can now be seen in
Hungary. The following are some of the finest:

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A necklace of three large rows, owned by the Archduke Joseph and valued at one million francs.
A still larger necklace in the possession of Prince Nicholas Esterhazy; this, however, is an entailed
heirloom, and may not be parted with without the king’s permission.
A very fine necklace of five rows, also an entailed heirloom, owned by Count Maurice Esterhazy.
A large necklace, possessed by Countess Alois Karoly, wife of the late ambassador in London.
This is another entailed heirloom; its value is at least a million and a half francs.
An unusually large necklace of four rows, such as one rarely sees, owned by the Countess
Wenkheim. The pearls are white, and have a good shape, but not much brilliancy. The average size of
these pearls is approximately twenty-four grains.
An equally large necklace consisting of a single row, averaging twenty-six grains, in the
possession of Countess Louis Batthyani.
There are a great many other necklaces of fine quality, worth from 300,000 francs down to
100,000 francs, belonging to families such as those of Count Joseph Hunyadi, Countess Festetics-
Hamilton, Count Landor Nako, Peer Leo Lanczi, Count Albert Apponyi, Mr. Eugene Dreher,
Madame Emma de Bachrach, etc., etc. Indeed, almost every wealthy family of the better class owns a
necklace worth up to 100,000 francs and over.

Page 540

PEARL ORNAMENTS OF
THE SEVENTEENTH AND
EIGHTEENTH CENTURIES

Hungarian Earring,
Aigret Hungary
Earrings, Spanish
Nijni- earring
Novgorod

The portraits of the fifteenth, sixteenth, and seventeenth centuries afford
us many interesting evidences regarding the various forms of jewelry in
which pearls were used. Indeed, had we no other records, these pictures
alone would prove the great popularity of the gem as an ornament.
In the finely executed portrait of the Duchess Anne de France, she wears
a coronet with three pearls at each point. It seems to be made up of three
large pearls, set on a row of pearls circling the entire top of her head,
beneath which is a row of great emeralds, and then another row of pearls.
Flaring downward and entirely covering the side of her head near the ear,
are two rows of pearls with a row of fine emeralds between them, the rows
of pearls deflecting slightly downward until the chin line is reached, and
then turning back and slightly upward, meeting at the back. As in the crown
cap, the same severe decoration in pearls is the main feature, and is repeated
on each side of the robe, the front of which is of ermine. Beginning on a

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line with the shoulder is a broad band of pearls and emeralds set in gold
which extends below her waist. At the top of this are six pearls set in a
straight line. Then from the end of this line, dropping straight down, is a
row on each side. Between the two rows is a gem, then two great pearls and
another gem, then two more pearls, this being repeated to below the waist.
The ermine is held at her waist by a trefoil reversed; that is, two pearls
above and one below a great gem, and then a trefoil reversed below this.
This portrait is dated 1498 and is on a triptych in the cathedral of Moulins.
Quite unique is the pearl decoration in a picture of St. Barbara, painted
by an artist of the French school, and dated 1520, which is in the National
Museum of Budapest. This artist uses pearls with the utmost severity of
taste and richness. Beginning a trifle above the center of her forehead is an
emerald ornament, and on each side there extend to the back of her head
three rows of pearls, not placed exactly one row above the other, but the
rows intertwined with each other. The whole is enriched by a great string of
pearls about her neck. The effect produced is extremely artistic and
beautiful.
Catharine de’ Medici wore two rows of pearls on her bonnet, and a quaint
necklace in sections of two rows of four pearls, with a large pearl between;
a pear-shaped pendant on a Renaissance jewel; a row of pearls around her
low-cut bodice, and a girdle of jewels alternating with pearls, which
extended to the lower end of her gown. In addition to all this, she wore a
bracelet of jewels with a pearl set between each ornament. This artistic
combination is best shown in her portrait in the Uffizi, Florence (No. 726),
painted by an unknown artist.
One of the most unique, rich, and chic collections of pearls, and one
worn with unusual grace, is that of the Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia,
shown in the fine portrait of her by Coello Sanchez. In this portrait her hat
shows the plumes embroidered with slanting rows of three, four, and five
pearls. In the center of the hat is an ornament shaped like a flower, with
seven large pearl petals surrounding a great pearl center. The hat is tilted to
one side showing her hair on the left, while a little to the right of the center
of her forehead, and touching it, there hangs from her hair a great pear-
shaped pearl, which adds a wonderful amount of character to the jeweling
of her head. Around her neck is a high fluted ruff; below which is a collar of
large gems relieved by an ornament of two pearls placed between each gem.

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The same interesting motive is carried out in a girdle of gems which comes
down very low to her waist, terminating in a large jeweled heart ornament.
The painting shows sixteen remarkable pearls in the collar, and thirty-six
pearls in the jeweled girdle.
A very interesting collection of portraits was exhibited last spring (1907)
at the Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris. The pictures are contained, in some
instances, in old illuminated manuscripts, while in others they are
contemporary crayon sketches. Many pearl decorations are represented, and
we give a few of the most important.
The portrait of Anne de Bretagne (1476–1514), wife of Louis XII, from the “Heures d’Anne de
Bretagne,” illuminated by Jean Bourdichon, represents the queen kneeling; she wears a collar
ornamented with groups of four pearls alternating with precious stones.
A crayon sketch of Françoise de Foix, Comtesse de Châteaubriant (1490–1537), who became the
mistress of Francis I, shows her wearing a hood or coif ornamented with forty oval pearls. She also
wears a necklace of sixty fine round pearls.
Diane de Poitiers (1499–1566), granddaughter of Charles VII and Agnes Sorel, is represented with
a head-dress similar to that worn by the Comtesse de Châteaubriant . It has a border of sixty round
pearls. This crayon is of the time of Jean Clouet.
A portrait of Philip Strozzi (1541–1582) who, although an Italian, had the rank of colonel-général
in the French army, is interesting as an illustration of the wearing of earrings by the men of this
period. The fine round pearl which hangs from his ear strikes us now as a curious ornament for a
warrior.
A crayon sketch of Gabrielle d’Estrées (d. 1599), mistress of Henri IV, is attributed to the hand of
Daniel Dumonstier. Here may be seen a splendid pearl necklace, which apparently consists of six
sections, each comprising three rows of eight round pearls, the sections being connected with each
other by a large oval pearl. The necklace, which hangs down over the bosom, is fastened by a clasp in
the form of a four-leaved clover, from which depend two other sections similar to those described
above, and terminating in an oval pearl pendant.
The portrait of the Duchesse de Montpensier (1627–1693), the “Grande Mademoiselle” of Mme.
de Sévigné’s letters, is from the “Maximes de nostre salut,” dedicated to the duchess by the author,
M. de la Serre, and is attributed to Nicolas Jarry. It represents the duchess wearing a beautiful
necklace of round pearls and a large pear-shaped pearl earring, while another pear-shaped pearl
depends from a clasp which serves to loop up her fichu on the shoulder.
A fine example of the Renaissance style existing in the sixteenth century
is that of a gold and enamel necklace of Italian workmanship, embellished
with pearls. This necklace was presented to the Louvre Museum by Don A.
de Rotschildt. The two-pearl motive is carried out exquisitely, two pearls
appearing in a small connecting ornament between two larger enameled and
engraved gold plaques, which represent scenes from the life of our Saviour.
At the exposition of 1900 there was shown in the Russian Pavilion, a
most interesting collection of jewelry of decidedly oriental character, dating
from the sixteenth to the eighteenth century. These jewels were said to have

Page 543

belonged to the Emir of Bokhara. They differed slightly from the East
Indian in character, and generally consisted of combinations of pearls,
rubies, and emeralds, the three colors of these gems predominating. One of
the most interesting of the necklaces, acquired by J. Gelatley, Esq., shows
an arrangement of the pearls which is peculiarly attractive and decorative.
The heraldic significance of pearls has at times been very important.
While in the eighteenth century the crowns of the French nobles were
surmounted with silver points, it appears that in the sixteenth century they
were provided with pearl points. According to Rudolphus,[477] the dukes
wore a leaf crown of eight leaves, with or without as many commingled
pearl points; the marquises a crown of four leaves with twelve pearl points,
or with four groups of three pearls set one over the other; and the counts, a
pearl crown which sometimes had four pearls in each corner, one above the
other. The viscounts wore a gold ring set with four pearls, and the barons a
gold ring entwined with pearls.
The same is true of the English coronets. Instead of the pearls which they
bore at an earlier period, silver balls are now used on those of the English
barons, viscounts, earls, and marquises. This change probably owed its
origin to the desire on the part of the sovereigns to confine the official use
of pearls and other precious stones to themselves. The rules at the
coronation of Edward VII forbade the use of pearls except as a special royal
privilege. The earl’s coronet has eight balls raised on points, with gold
strawberry leaves between the points. The marquis wears one with four gold
strawberry leaves and four silver balls alternating, the latter raised above
the rim.[478]
A pearl and gold ring, formerly belonging to Washington, is now in the
possession of Vice-Chancellor E. B. Learning, of Camden, N. J. It bears in
the center a lock of Washington’s hair under a conical glass, around which
is a setting of blue and white enamel with a square of red at each corner.
The whole is surrounded by a circle of thirteen pearls. This ring was
presented by Washington to Lieutenant Richard Somers prior to the latter’s
departure on the expedition against the Algerine pirates in Tripoli, in the
course of which he lost his life. Before his departure he left the ring with his
sister, Sarah Keen. Vice-Chancellor Leaming’s paternal grandmother
inherited it as heir to Somers’s estate, and from her it descended
successively to her son and grandson. The lock of Washington’s hair is

Page 544

admitted to be one of only three now existing, of the other two, one is at
Washington’s headquarters at Newburg and the other in the museum at
Boston. The ring was exhibited at the Centennial Exposition in 1876.
And what a wealth of pearls was seen at the marriage of the late Emperor
Frederick III of Germany with Princess Victoria, in 1858! The wedding gift
of the bridegroom consisted of a necklace of thirty-six enormous pearls,
three superb ones in the middle, and graduated in size toward the ends.
From her mother, Queen Victoria, the bride received a diamond necklace
and three massive brooches set with unusually large pearls; and from Prince
Albert, a magnificent hair-net of pearls, diamonds, and emeralds. The king
and queen of Prussia presented a diadem of brilliants surrounded with a
splendid circlet of pearls. On the day of her entry into Berlin, the queen
bestowed on the bride a costly brooch of pearls and diamonds, representing
a bouquet, the leaves of which consisted of diamonds, while the flowers
themselves were of pear-shaped pearls of large size, one weighing 160
grains, and fourteen of them weighing 600 grains together.
One of the most splendid and best known collection of pearls, and one
worn with as much grace as any in Europe, consists of those owned by the
dowager Queen Margherita of Italy, whose name signifies pearl, and who
has always been fond of the ocean jewel. Her husband, King Humbert,
made her many presents of this regal gem. A photograph, signed by the
queen and sent to us for this volume by her gracious courtesy, shows her
wearing her magnificent twelve strings of pearls, a pearl bracelet, and a
pearl tiara with pear-shaped pearl tips.

Page 545

MARGHERITA, DOWAGER
QUEEN OF ITALY

At the coronation of Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, beside her
coronation crown, the latter wore many of her richest and most beautiful
jewels. These consisted of seven immense rows of pearls, each twenty-four
to thirty inches in length, hanging below five large neck circlets of
diamonds and a great corsage ornament which covered her entire bodice;
and beneath part of this was a splendid ornament of diamonds with large,
pear-shaped pearls.
A careful study of the decorations conferred by potentates and
governments shows that the pearl is rarely used in the ornamentation of
these marks of distinction. A notable exception is that given by the Siamese
government. This decoration is known as the nine-jewel Siamese
decoration, and bears a large center pearl. It is only conferred on nine
members of the royal Siamese family, including his Majesty the King of
Siam. The central pearl represents the king and the eight other jewels
surrounding it the members of his family. It is strange that Siam should find
so much significance in white, as is illustrated by the white elephant, and
also by the use of the white pearl for this order.
The Order of Christ, the chief Portuguese order, has a long cross
enameled in bright red surcharged with a white cross and bordered with fine
pearls. The effect is both striking and beautiful.

Page 546

The order of the crown of India is a jeweled badge with a device
composed of the imperial cipher, E. R. and I., in diamonds, pearls, and
turquoises, set within a border of pearls and surmounted by the imperial
crown.[479]
A remarkable pearl necklace was recently the subject of litigation in
England. It was the property of the late Duchess of Sermonata, an
Englishwoman who married an Italian. She was a daughter of the late Lord
Howard de Walden, one of the wealthiest of the English nobility. The
duchess was in the habit of investing all her spare cash in pearls, and it
seems that she chose a very good form of investment, since pearls have
increased in value to a greater extent even than diamonds during the same
period. Of the ten rows of which this necklace consisted, six were deposited
for safekeeping in a London bank and the other four were in Florence at the
time of the death of the duchess. She had bequeathed the gems at the bank
to her niece, Miss Henrietta Ellis, and had left directions that, if her pearl
necklace was in London when she died, it should be sent to her Italian
executors. All the jewels are now claimed by these executors, while Miss
Ellis contends that it was the intention of the duchess to leave to her the
pearls in the hands of the London bankers. The necklace consisted at one
time of ten rows; the first, thirteen and a half inches long, comprised forty-
one pearls; the second, fourteen inches in length, thirty-nine pearls; the
third, fourteen and a half inches, forty-three pearls; the fourth, seventeen
inches, forty-seven pearls; the fifth, seventeen and a half inches, forty-nine
pearls; the sixth, nineteen and a half inches, fifty-five pearls; the seventh,
twenty-one inches, sixty-six pearls; the eighth, twenty-three and a half
inches, seventy pearls; the ninth, twenty-six inches, eighty-two pearls; the
tenth, twenty-nine and a half inches, ninety-one pearls. The total number of
pearls is 583, and the necklace is valued at $150,000.
A widely advertised necklace of large size was shown in the English
section of the Paris Exposition of 1900. This necklace consisted of forty-six
pearls weighing 1596 grains, and was valued at $450,000. It was loaned by
an English gentleman now dead, and was returned to him at the close of the
exposition and later dispersed.
In regard to the possession of pearls by families in the United States, we
may safely say that there is not a letter in the alphabet under which we
cannot find the names of from one to a dozen families, owning single

Page 547

strings or collections from the value of $10,000 to $200,000, or even more.
If one is a wearer of jewels, pearls are an absolute necessity; indeed, they
are as essential and indispensable for the wealthy as are houses, horses, and
automobiles. At no period in the world’s history have pearls been more
widely distributed; and some of those of to-day are finer in quality and
orient, and also more carefully matched, than those in the great collections
of the past. Of course there are exceptions, where royal personages have
been careful observers and have used good taste, but it is a question
whether there have ever been more critical or better buyers, as far as
selection is concerned, than are many American men and women who have
purchased this gem.
One of the largest pearl necklaces in the United States is in the
possession of an American lady. There are perhaps thirty pearls in the
necklace, weighing in all about 1400 grains; the largest pearl weighs nearly
120 grains. There is also one of 75 grains and one of 70 grains, the others
graduating down to 20 grains.

COLLECTION OF BLACK
PEARLS BELONGING TO
AN AMERICAN LADY

With increasing wealth, and a demand for rich rather than gaudy or
showy jewelry, there is nothing that commends itself so highly as the pearl,
which acts as a foil to the diamond, emerald, ruby, and sapphire, and at the
same time harmonizes with them and in fact with all the colored stones. The
true pearl, as it increases in size and beauty, becomes proportionately more

Page 548

rare and costly; and yet it differs from other jewels in the fact that they are
mined in the depths of the earth, and their existing quantity is speculative,
while the home of the pearl is much more accessible, and it is possible to
make an estimate of the number of pearls in course of growth. Pearls,
however, are forming all the time, while other gems are perhaps to-day as
they were ages before the advent of man. Nevertheless, even if pearls were
cultivated as they should be, and people cared for the mollusks as the
oyster-gatherer does for his crop—by planting it, guarding it and gathering
it systematically—still, the ever-increasing demand would more than
balance the greater supply. As we have said, at no time since pearls were
worn have they enjoyed such favor; and while they have always increased
in value, this increase has never been so rapid as in the past ten years. They
are jewels which can be worn by young or old, and which adapt themselves
to every fabric that man or woman can use for attire; whether they are
white, gray, or black, they are never obtrusive, but always have a refining
effect. Round as the globe upon which we live, they will probably be worn
and appreciated as long as life exists upon this sphere.
It is interesting to note the change of taste and the difference of opinion,
at various epochs, in regard to the respective merits of pear-shaped and
round pearls. In the Roman period the pear-shaped pearls were more highly
valued; in the eighteenth century round pearls were esteemed the more
valuable, while at the present day they are both on about the same basis.
With the progressive twentieth century taste for independence in fashion,
our modern ladies take from every epoch what they think will best suit their
superrefined beauty. Therefore we are not surprised to find in their jewel-
cases the long earrings and large brooches adorned with seed-pearls, similar
to those worn by their grandmothers of the early Victorian period. Although
these jewels cannot be considered very beautiful according to the artistic
standard of to-day, they, nevertheless, lend to their wearers a certain quaint
dignity and piquancy which is very attractive.
As an instance of modern pearl-wearing by a lady of the present century,
we may note a portrait in which there is a simple necklace of large pearls;
over this a collar of twenty-three rows of pearls with a diamond centerpiece,
and to relieve the severity, a sautoir, which is made up of alternate pearls
and diamonds, and pearl earrings. No better illustration can be given than

Page 549

the portrait of Señora Carmen Romero Rubio de Diaz, wife of President
Porfirio Diaz of Mexico, which, by her courtesy, we are able to figure.
The gathering of a great necklace is not the work of a day; it often
requires many years. Such necklaces are frequently held for a long time by
dealers or by a number of people who are interested in their sale, and
whenever one or more pearls can be purchased which form a better
graduation or which are of better color or more perfect, they are usually
purchased to improve the necklace if the price is a proper one.
In the early sixties, when most American women aspired to owning a pair
of diamond earrings, it was not uncommon for ladies to start with a
hundred, two hundred, five hundred, or a thousand-dollar pair, and, for a
dozen years to come, to add an annual sum of one hundred, two hundred or
five hundred dollars to increasing the size of these by exchanging them with
the dealer at the cost price and paying the difference between the value of
the pair that had been purchased and that of the new pair. In this way ladies
who never would have thought of spending five thousand dollars for a pair
of earrings, virtually made a savings-bank of the jewels. This is frequently
done with pearls. A small necklace or a few pearls will be purchased; these
are added to annually or at such times as the owner may have spare savings
or gifts to invest. It is not uncommon for a family to buy a pearl for a
daughter on her first birthday, and each succeeding year add one pearl to
this, so that she may first wear one pearl, then two, then three, and by the
time the young lady makes her début in society, a good start has been made
toward a pearl necklace. It was the custom of King Humbert of Italy to
present his queen, Margherita, with one fine pearl every year, and with this
succession of annual gifts she possessed one of the finest collections in
Europe.
In the portraits of the four daughters of the present Czarina of Russia, the
Grand Duchesses Tatiana, Olga, Maria, and Anastasia, we can see that their
pearl necklaces were built up gradually, as that of the eldest daughter is
notably longer than those of her younger sisters. These pearls were annual
gifts from the Czar and Czarina and from others of the imperial family.
There are few ornaments worn by man or woman that have not at one
time or another been bepearled, either with large or small pearls, with one
pearl or many pearls, with pearls of high or low degree, and no object is

Page 550

ever made the less rich by the addition of the peerless gem of the ocean
depths.
As the prices of pearls have increased, naturally the single objects
containing them have also become more costly. It is not unusual to see rings
with pearls each costing from $5000 to $10,000, $20,000, and even $30,000
and over, the pearls not infrequently being in button form.
Rings are occasionally made up of one white and one black oriental
pearl, and if a pink one is combined with these, it is either a fresh-water or a
conch pearl. Such rings sell for $5000, $8000, $10,000 and $15,000 each.
Pendant pearls, either round, ovate, drop, or pear-shaped, sell from $5000
to $10,000, $20,000, $50,000, and even $100,000.
The prices for one or two choice pearls worn for the adornment of a
man’s shirt-front are $2000, $3000, $5000, and even $10,000.

SENORA CARMEN
ROMERO RUBIO DE DIAZ,
WIFE OF PRESIDENT
PORFIRIO DIAZ OF
MEXICO

In link buttons, slightly ovate, button or round pearls are used, the link
being made up of one white and one black pearl, costing $2000, $3000,
$5000, and even $20,000 a set.
It is not unusual for a man to wear a scarf-pin set with a round, ovate, or
pear-shaped pearl costing $2000, $5000, $10,000, $15,000, and even
$30,000.

Page 551

For men’s scarf-pins, a variety of colors are frequently selected, such as a
white oriental, a pink American, a pink conch, or a gray and black oriental
pearl.
Single pearl necklaces sell for $1000, $2000, $5000, $8000, $10,000,
$15,000, $20,000, $50,000, $100,000, $250,000, and $500,000 necklaces
are not unknown.
Tiaras sell for $10,000, $20,000, $50,000, and $100,000.
Waistcoat buttons, sometimes made up of baroque pearls, cost from $200
to $500; sometimes, however, when fine pearls are used, the price paid for a
set of five or six buttons is as high as $10,000.
It is scarcely possible to mention all the various forms in which the pearl
has been worn: whether as a spray of many small pearls or a few large ones,
either round, ovate, or pear-shaped for aigrets; in points on crowns, used
either for ornamental or heraldic purposes; for the decoration of the orbs,
scepters, and crowns of kings and emperors; for forming an edging on
bonnets, caps, fillets, or diadems; in pendant form, usually consisting of
one, although sometimes of three or four pendants in rows and lines to
ornament the side of the face; or one, two, three, or a bunch together to
adorn the ear; as a single pearl on a wire or a group of them, as worn in the
nose of the East Indian beauty; as a single, two, three, or many-rowed
necklace to grace the lady, the queen, and the empress; or else in six, ten, to
twenty or more rows with a tiny gold jeweled bar, or a large diamond
center, in the form of collars; as a long chain from four to ten feet long to
hang from the neck to the waist, or else to be worn once, twice, or thrice
around the neck, hanging down and then encircling the waist in the form of
a sautoir; either as a single drop, consisting of an ovate or pear-shaped pearl
or a number of them together in the form of a pendant combined with
diamonds; as a single pearl surrounded with pearls or diamonds for buttons
to adorn my lady’s crown; in rows, or combined with jewels and enamel, in
the form of a bow-knot with long bunches of pearls, for shoulder bars;
either as one pearl alone or alternating with gold wire, with jewels, or with
many pearls, in endless forms, as bracelets; either as a single row, two rows
or alternate rows in infinite variety on bodices, as worn in the past more
than at the present; in a single row on ornamenting metal, enamel, or
jewelwork in the form of girdles; in five hundred forms for rings; as an

Page 552

embroidery or in rows pendant on slippers; and, finally, as a stole. These are
only a few of the uses to which a lady can put pearls.
By men, pearls are worn to adorn the shirt, to wear in the scarf, as link
buttons, as waistcoat buttons, or as a fob. The pearls used in this way are
sometimes quite as expensive as any of those worn by the ladies.
Ecclesiastics, for more than two thousand years, have appreciated the
richness of bepearling. In Russia we find pearls decorating crosses, missal
covers, vestments, bindings on books, chalices and crook-tops; they are
employed as borders to ikon frames, or for the decoration about the
Madonna and Child. In Persia we find pearl-embroidered rugs, pillows, and
bolsters. Half-pearls are used in quaint decorations for watches, snuff-
boxes, miniatures, and portrait frames. Even saddles and horse-trappings in
the East do not escape the charm and beauty of the pearl. Even the English
coronation spoon is known for the pearls which ornament it.
Of the many forms of earrings that have come down to us, none is
simpler or daintier than a single pearl worn as an ear-screw, or partly or
entirely strung on a thin gold wire. Another dainty style is three pearls,
worn one below the other as in ancient Rome, known as a triclum; or the
round pearl with a pear-shaped pendant or bunches of pearls known as
crotalia, also worn in ancient times.
A pearl necklace is usually clasped either by a round or ovate pearl,
drilled so that the catch and snap are contained within the pearl itself, or
else by a pearl surrounded by diamonds, rubies, or other gems. Such a clasp
frequently serves to bind from two to fifteen rows of pearls, the first or
smaller row encircling the neck, and each row in turn being larger until the
fifteenth row reaches to the bosom or even to the waist.
Pearl collars are usually made up of four, six, ten, twenty, and even
twenty-five rows; often of very small pearls, generally fitting closely to the
neck. The pearls are held in position either by four gold, diamond, or
jeweled bars, or frequently the entire front of the collar is occupied by a
large diamond ornament.
In ancient times, pearls were a favorite decoration of crosses; frequently
an entire cross was made up of pearls, either of a single or a double row.
Many portraits dating from the fifteenth to the seventeenth century show the
cross used in connection with a necklace, this either starting from the top of
the cross or from each side at the end of each arm. Sometimes from below

Page 553

the arms and the lower part of the cross there hung pendant either round or
pear-shaped pearls. We have other instances where at the top, the cross was
attached to a pearl necklace, while below each of the two arms there hung a
pearl, and from the lower part of the cross a double necklace again reached
to the back of the neck. Frequently a festoon collar will be made up of five
rows of pearls, each of a graduated length, and pendant on each a diamond.
Recently pearls have been drilled and invisibly joined by fine platinum
links, so as to form a continuous ribbon or even a collar two inches wide;
occasionally, a Greek border or some other design, of larger pearls or of
diamonds, rubies, sapphires or other gems, is interwoven. This constitutes a
veritable, smooth pearl cloth, or pearl mesh, very beautiful and also
comfortable to wear. Indeed, a purse, measuring five by six inches, has been
made of this cloth of pearls.

Jade jar inlaid with pearls set
with fine gold

Heber R. Bishop Collection,
Metropolitan Museum of Art

Page 554

Japanese decoration set with
pearls

Order of the crown of the
First Class. Metropolitan
Museum of Art

Dust-pearls, too minute to drill, and numbering over 100,000 to the
ounce, were used, in the latter part of the eighteenth and the early part of the
nineteenth centuries, for the embellishment of the hair-work then so much
in favor and which was placed under glass. Where foliage was represented
the leaves were made of the most minute seed-pearls, graduated in size and
set on an outline of enamel or white paint, the pearls being cemented to the
outline. This added a softness to the hair-work and other decoration.
As long as the pearl has been known, there has been a desire to obtain
possession of one in some of its degrees of perfection, and for this reason
many attempts have been made to prepare something that might pass for a
pearl or even suggest a pearl. Sometimes the mother-of-pearl shell has,
naturally, a protuberance, either round or pear-shaped, which, if cut off and
highly polished may resemble an imperfect pearl; and this operation is often
so cleverly performed that, at the first glance, this object may pass for a true
pearl. In Russia, and especially in Bohemia, they have gone farther than
this. They have cut out a bit of mother-of-pearl shell, leaving a piece of the
natural shell for the top, or the part that will be visible, and rounding off the
rest of the surface so as to give it a pearly effect. These objects are of
trifling value and are used in necklaces and earrings, and in the
ornamentation of icons and miniature frames and even as beads. Glass with
either an exterior or interior coating of a nacreous substance is sometimes
made absolutely round, while at other times it is made with many
imperfections so as to resemble either a marine baroque or a fresh-water

Page 555

irregular pearl. The North American Indian, as described elsewhere, has
coated little balls of clay with a powder made from a pearl-bearing fresh-
water mussel and then baked them.

Page 556

XVI

FAMOUS PEARLS AND COLLECTIONS

Page 557

XVI
FAMOUS PEARLS AND COLLECTIONS

The kingdom of heaven is like unto a merchant man, seeking goodly pearls: who, when he
had found one pearl of great price, went and sold all that he had and bought it.
St. Matthew, XIII, 45, 46.

I
n the course of twenty centuries many pearls and pearl collections
have become famous, either because of their intrinsic value or else
through historic associations. An attempt is made here to list briefly
the more important of these. While we have purposely omitted any
mention of the pearl collections in private hands at the present time, some
of which are more valuable than many of those noted in the following
pages, we have, nevertheless, given the principal sales of pearls at auction
during the past twenty years. Many specimens of remarkable size and
beauty have changed hands in this way, more especially in England.

Cleopatra Pearls. Next to that “pearl of great price,” mentioned by
Christ, probably the most famous of all pearls were the two which Pliny
records as having been worn in the ears of Cleopatra, “the singular and
onely jewels of the world and even Nature’s wonder.” This writer does not
note their size, but estimates their value at sixty million sestertii. We have
already quoted the passage in which Pliny relates how one of these pearls
was dissolved and swallowed by Cleopatra in order to win a wager she had
made with Antony. After the death of that queen the other pearl “was cut in
twaine, that in memoriall of that one halfe supper of theirs, it should
remaine unto posterite, hanging at both the eares of Venus at Rome in the
temple of Pantheon.”[480] Budé estimated the value of the pearl dedicated to
Venus at 250,000 escus of gold.[481]

Page 558

Another famous pearl mentioned by Pliny was the one which Julius
Cæsar presented to Servilia, mother of Brutus, the value of which he notes
as six million sestertii.[482]

Peroz Pearl. The historian Procopius,[483] of the sixth century, tells of a
magnificent pearl which belonged to Peroz, or Firuz (459–484), one of the
Sassanian kings of Persia. In the course of his disastrous battle with the
White Huns, in which both he and his sons perished, Peroz, having a
presentiment of the misfortune about to befall him, took the pearl from his
right ear and cast it away, lest any one should wear it after him. This pearl is
described as being “such as no king had ever worn up to that time.”
Procopius, however, thinks it more probable that the ear of Peroz was cut
off in the combat, and he states that the emperor (Zeno, 426–491) was very
anxious to buy the gem from the Huns, but that all search for it was in vain.
Nevertheless, a rumor was current that it was recovered later, but that
another pearl was substituted for it and sold to Kobad, a successor of Peroz.
A different version is given by Panciroli,[484] who quotes Zonaras, a
Byzantine historian of the twelfth century, as his authority. According to
this version Justinian the Great, who succeeded to the throne forty-three
years after the death of Peroz, offered one hundred pounds of gold (about
$25,000) for the pearl, but the barbarians refused to part with it, preferring
to keep it as a memorial of Persian folly. On the coins of Peroz he is
represented wearing an earring with three pendants, one of which may have
been this wonderful pearl.

Charles the Bold. One of the greatest jewels of the fifteenth century was
that belonging to Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy (1433–1477).
According to notes and drawings[485] made in 1555 by J. J. Fugger of
Nuremberg, who was the banker jeweler of his generation, this consisted of
a large pyramid diamond five eighths of an inch square at the base, with the
apex cut as a four-rayed star in relief; surrounding this were three
rectangular pyramid-shaped rubies and three magnificent pear-shaped
pearls, and a large ovate pearl was suspended from the lowest ruby. The
pear pearls are described as measuring half an inch in diameter and must
have weighed about sixty grains each. This magnificent jewel was probably

Page 559

the most celebrated in Europe during the fifteenth century. According to
Comines, on the defeat of the Grand Duke and the plundering of his
baggage by the Swiss at Granson in 1476, the ornament was found by a
careless soldier who tossed it away, but retained the gold box containing it.
On second thought, he searched for and recovered the jewel and sold it to a
priest for one florin, and the ecclesiastic sold it to a Bernese government
official for the sum of three florins. Some years later this jewel, together
with the ducal cap of Charles the Bold, which was covered with pearls, and
bore a plume case, set with diamonds (points), alternating with pearls and
balas-rubies, was sold by the Bernese government to Jacob Fugger, as
related by J. J. Fugger in the manuscript above noted, “for no more than
47,000 florins.” In the vain hope that it would be purchased by Emperor
Charles V, grandson of Charles the Bold, Fugger held the jewel for many
years, but he broke up the cap and reset the stones in it for Maximilian II.
The brooch was finally sold to Henry VIII of England just before his death,
and it passed to his daughter and successor, Bloody Mary, who presented it
to her Spanish bridegroom, Philip. Thus, after seventy-six years, the jewel
was restored to a descendant of the original owner. This history has been
given at some length owing to its illustration of the manner in which great
pearls were easily lost on battle-fields and were passed about from one
country to another.

GAIKWAR OF BARODA,
1908

Tararequi Pearls. The early American fisheries yielded several
magnificent pearls, many of which eventually became part of the imperial

Page 560

Spanish jewels. Prominent among these was the Huerfana or Sola.
According to Gomara, this was secured in 1515 from the Indians at
Tararequi, in the Gulf of Panama, in a large collection which weighed 880
ounces. It was pear-shaped and weighed thirty-one carats. Gomara states
that this pearl was purchased from Gaspar de Morales, leader of the Spanish
expedition, by a merchant, for the sum of 12,000 castilians. “The purchaser
could not sleep that night for thinking on the fact that he had given so much
money for one stone, and sold it the very next day to Pedrarias de Avila, for
his wife Donna Isabel de Bovadilla”; and afterward it passed to Isabella,
wife of Emperor Charles V (1500–1558). It was remarkable for its luster,
color, and clearness, as well as for its size. Another large pearl in this
collection weighed twenty-six carats.

Oviedo Pearl. As already noted on page 237, in his “Historia natural y
general de las Indias,” published at Toledo in 1526, Gonzalo de Oviedo
wrote of having purchased at Panama a pearl weighing twenty-six carats for
which he paid 650 times its weight in fine gold, and which he claimed was
the “greatest, fairest and roundest” that had ever been seen at Panama.
Probably this was the twenty-six-carat pearl obtained at Tararequi by
Gaspar de Morales in 1515. At 650 times its weight in gold the value of this
pearl would be $2294.54; representing a base of $.2124 per grain; but at a
base of $5 per grain the same pearl would be worth $54,080, equaling
15,320 times its weight in gold.

Temple of Talomeco. Among great collections of pearls, some writers
would place that described by Garcilasso de la Vega as having been found
by De Soto and his followers in 1540 in the Temple of Talomeco near the
Savannah River in America.[486] According to Garcilasso, the quantity of
pearls there was so great that 300 horses and 900 men would not have
sufficed for its transportation, vastly excelling every other if not all other
collections in the history of the world. Unfortunately the accuracy of this
account has not been unquestioned.

La Peregrina. Most celebrated among the early American pearls was La
Peregrina (the incomparable), or the Philip II pearl, which weighed 134

Page 561

grains. According to Garcilasso de la Vega, who says that he saw it at
Seville in 1597,[487] this was found at Panama in 1560 by a negro who was
rewarded with his liberty, and his owner with the office of alcalde of
Panama. Other authorities note that it came from the Venezuelan fisheries in
1574. It was carried to Spain by Don Diego de Temes, who presented it to
Philip II (1527–1598). Jacques de Treco, court jeweler to the king, is
credited with saying that it might be worth 30,000, 50,000 or 100,000
ducats, as one might choose to estimate, for in fact it was so remarkable as
to be beyond any standard valuation. If we can credit Garcilasso, at one
time this pearl decorated the crown of the Blessed Virgin in the church of
Guadeloupe, which was resplendent with gems.[488] A contemporaneous
account[489] notes that it was worn at Madrid by Queen Margarita, wife of
Philip III, at the fêtes given in celebration of the treaty of peace between
that country and England in 1605.

Charles II Pearl. Somewhat similar to the foregoing was the pearl of
Charles II of Spain (1661–1700), which was presented to that monarch by
Don Pedro de Aponte, Conde del Palmer, a native of the Canaries. This gem
was found in 1691, or more than a century after La Peregrina. These two
pearls were nearly equal in size, and for many years they were worn as
earrings by the successive queens of Spain. It is reported that they were
destroyed in 1734, when a large portion of the old palace at Madrid was
burned.[490]

Page 562

MARY, QUEEN OF SCOTS

The property of the Earl of
Leven and Melville. About
1559–1560

The jewels of the Spanish crown have passed through so many
vicissitudes that it is not surprising that but few of them remain in the
Spanish treasury. After the overthrow of the Spanish monarchy by the
French in 1808, Ferdinand VII, during the time of his exile, disposed of
many of these jewels. It is asserted that, after the deposition of Queen
Isabella, in 1868, the crown jewels were divided between herself and her
sister, the pious Duchesse de Montpensier, and a considerable portion was
eventually distributed among the numerous descendants of the latter. It is
also stated that there is no mention of the Spanish crown jewels during the
reign of King Amadeus, the first sovereign of the restored monarchy. There
are, however, great quantities of pearls and other gems belonging to the
various madonnas in the Spanish churches, as, for example, Nuestra Señora
de Atocha, Cavadonga and others.

Pearls of Mary Stuart. The pearls owned by the unfortunate Mary
Queen of Scots (1542–1587) were among the most beautiful in Europe.
Inventories of these[491] show great bordures de tour of large pear pearls
with entredeux of round pearls, long ropes of pearls strung like beads on a
rosary, carcans or broad belts set with pearls, and a large number of loose
pearls. Many of these appear in the portraits of this popular queen; but
probably the most remarkable exhibition of them is in the portrait now
owned by the Earl of Leven and Melville,[492] which appears to agree fairly

Page 563

well with the inventories of her jewels, although this portrait is not wholly
free from impeachment as to its accuracy and contemporaneousness.
After the downfall of the queen, most of her jewels were sold, pawned, or
lost by theft. A number of them passed into the possession of Queen
Elizabeth in 1568, in a manner not wholly satisfactory to lovers of justice.
Some of these were described in a letter dated May 8, 1568, and addressed
to Catharine de’ Medici by Bodutel de la Forest, the French ambassador at
the English court, as “six cordons of large pearls, strung as paternosters; but
there are about twenty-five separate from the others much larger and more
beautiful than those which are strung. They were first shown to three or four
jewelers and lapidaries of this city, who estimated them at three thousand
pounds sterling, and who offered to give that sum; certain Italian merchants
who viewed them afterwards valued them at 12,000 escus, which is the
price, as I am told, this queen [Elizabeth] will take them at. There is a
Genevese who saw them after the others and estimated them as worth
16,000 escus [$24,000].”[493]
Catharine de’ Medici, who was a mother-in-law of Mary Stuart, was very
anxious to obtain these pearls; but the ambassador wrote on May 15, 1568,
that he had found it impossible to purchase them; for, as he had told her
from the first, they were intended for the gratification of the Queen of
England, who had purchased them at her own price, and was even then in
possession of them.[494]

Queen Elizabeth’s Pearls. Although in her youth she is said to have had
a distaste for personal decorations, in her later years Queen Elizabeth
entertained an extravagant fondness for pearls. In speaking of her portraits,
Horace Walpole says: “A pale Roman nose, a head of hair loaded with
crowns and powdered with diamonds, a vast ruff, a vaster fardingale, and a
bushel of pearls, are features by which everybody knows at once the
pictures of Queen Elizabeth.”[495] And to the end, her love for them was
unabated, for in the last tragi-comic scene of her life, to meet the Angel of
Death himself, she was dressed up in her most splendid jewels with great
pearl necklaces and earrings and pendants, as Paul Delaroche so
successfully pictured in his remarkable painting in the Louvre.
The faded waxwork effigy of her, long preserved in Westminster Abbey
in that curious collection of effigies[496]—the “Ragged Regiment,” as

Page 564

Walpole called them—has a coronet of large spherical pearls in wax, long
necklaces of them, a great pearl-ornamented stomacher, pearl earrings with
large pear-shaped pendants, and even broad, pearl medallions on the shoe-
bows. In accordance with that singular custom which prevailed from the
time of Henry V (1422), to that of Queen Anne (1714),[497] this effigy lay on
her coffin at the funeral and caused, says Stow in his Chronicle, “such a
general sighing, groning, and weeping, as the like hath not beene seene or
knowne in the memory of man.” A contemporaneous poet wrote that when
the corpse with the effigy passed down the Thames to lie in state at
Whitehall,
Fish wept their eyes of pearl quite out,
And swam blind after.

Gresham Pearl. During the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Sir Thomas
Gresham, the merchant prince, was credited with possessing a pearl valued
at £15,000, which he reduced to powder and drank in a glass of wine to the
health of the queen, in order to astonish the Spanish ambassador, with
whom he had laid a wager that he would give a more costly dinner than
could the Spaniards.[498] No other information regarding this pearl seems
available. The valuation certainly appears excessive when compared with
that of some other pearls of that period.
We quote an item from Burgon,[499] taken from the manuscript journal
kept by Edward VI:
25 [April, 1551]. A bargaine made with the Fulcare for about 60,000 l. that in May and August
should be paid, for the deferring of it. First, that the Foulcare should put it off for ten in the hundred.
Secondly, that I should buy 12,000 marks weight at 6 shilinges the ounce to be delivered at
Antwerpe, and so conveyed over. Thirdly, I should pay 100,000 crowns for a very faire juel of his,
four rubies marvelous big, one orient and great diamount, and one great pearle.

Rudolph II Pearls. The scientific, art-loving, but eccentric Rudolph II
(1552–1612), Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, gathered about him at
Prague a great collection of jewels and wealth of all sorts. The values of his
pearls and precious stones, of the gold and silver articles, was estimated by
the archæologist, Jules Cæsar Boulenger, at seventeen millions of gold
florins, which was a very considerable sum at that time, as appears when we
consider that one hundred gold florins annually was deemed a good salary

Page 565

for an official at the emperor’s court. De Boot mentions a pearl belonging to
Rudolph II which weighed “thirty carats and cost as many thousands of
gold pieces.” It is quite likely that this was the one noted by Gomara as
coming from the Gulf of Panama,[500] and which Rudolph probably inherited
from his grandfather, Emperor Charles V. The pearl bought by Oviedo in
Panama, prior to 1526, may be one of the principal decorations of the
imperial crown of Austria.
We read in that curious and interesting book, “The Generall Historie of
the Turkes,” by Richard Knolles,[501] that Abbas the Great, Shah of Persia
(1557–1628), after having defeated the Turks in many battles, desired to
form an alliance with Emperor Rudolph II, and to induce him to break his
engagements with the Turks. To this end Shah Abbas, in 1610 sent an
embassy to Prague, with many valuable gifts for the emperor, among which
were “three orientall pearles exceeding big.” It has been conjectured, and it
is also claimed, that these may be three of the eight pear-shaped pearls
which are now to be seen in the crown of Rudolph II. One of the largest
pearls in the Austrian crown, as we have stated, is most probably the
Oviedo pearl.

Charles I Pearl. Admirers of Vandyke’s pictures of Charles I (1600–
1649) readily recall the pearl pendant from his right ear, which appears in
nearly all of his portraits by that artist. Janin wrote: “This pearl in the ear of
his majesty was greatly coveted, and as soon as his head had fallen, the
witnesses of the dreadful scene rushed forward, ready to imbue their hands
in his blood in order to secure the royal jewel.” It seems more probable that
the martyr king would have left this gem in the hands of a trusty friend for
his family than to the risk of injury by the ax and to be torn from his
mutilated head by a scrambling mob.

Owing to their control of the great fisheries, the most valuable collections
of pearls have been held by eastern monarchs, and particularly by those of
India and Persia. It has been estimated that one third of the portable wealth
of these countries is in jewels. Most Orientals are as suspicious of interest
in their jewels as they are of inquiry regarding their harems, imagining,
doubtless, that the interest conceals a sentiment of cupidity, hence it is not

Page 566

practicable to give a minute description of them. However, several travelers
have recorded glowing accounts of collections which they have examined,
which read much like a description of Aladdin’s palace in the Arabian
Nights. Among these, some of the greatest are the

Pearls described by Tavernier. For accounts of remarkable pearls in
eastern countries in the seventeenth century, we are indebted to that well-
informed old French jeweler, Tavernier, one of the most remarkable gem
dealers the world has ever known. He made numerous journeys to Persia,
Turkey, Central Asia, and the East Indies, gaining the confidence of the
highest officials and trading in gems of the greatest value. After amassing a
large fortune and purchasing a barony near Lake Geneva, he died at
Moscow in 1689 while on a mercantile trip to the Orient, at the age of
eighty-four years. His “Voyages,” published in 1676–1679, reveal a critical
knowledge of gems, a remarkable insight into human nature, and the
absence of any intention to impart misleading information.
In the first English edition of his travels, published in 1678, Tavernier
gave sketches of five of the principal pearls which came under his careful
observation.
Figure 1 of Tavernier’s diagram shows what he considered “the largest
and most perfect pearl ever discovered, and without the least defect.” The
weight of this pear-shaped gem does not appear to have been noted, but
from the sketch it may be estimated at about 500 grains. Tavernier states
that the bloodthirsty Shah Sofi, King of Persia, purchased it in 1633 from an
Arab who had just received it from the fisheries at El Katif. “It cost him
32,000 tomans, or 1,400,000 livres of our money, at the rate of 46 livres and
6 deniers per toman ($552,000).”[502]

Page 567

QUEEN ELIZABETH OF
ENGLAND

ELIZABETH OF FRANCE

Very much smaller but more beautiful than this great pearl, was the one
which Tavernier saw in 1670 at Ormus in the possession of the Imam of
Muscat, who had recently recovered the Muscat peninsula from the
Portuguese. The jeweler stated that although this weighed only twelve and
one sixteenth carats (forty-eight and a quarter grains),[503] and was not
perfectly round, it surpassed in beauty all others in the world at that time. It
was so clear and lustrous as to appear translucent. At the conclusion of a
grand entertainment given by the Khan of Ormus, at which Tavernier was
present, the Prince of Muscat drew this gem from a small purse suspended
about his neck, and exhibited it to the company. The Khan of Ormus offered
2000 tomans (about $34,500) for it, but the owner would not part with his
treasure. Tavernier states that later the prince refused an offer of 40,000
escus ($45,000) from Aurangzeb, the Great Mogul of India.[504]

Page 568

Figure 3 in the diagram represents a pear-shaped pearl of fifty-five carats
(220 grains) which Tavernier sold to Shaista Khan, uncle of the Grand
Mogul. Although of large size and good shape, this was deficient in luster.
According to the jeweler, this pearl was from the Island of Margarita on the
Venezuelan coast, and was the largest ever carried from Occident to Orient.
Tavernier listed among the Great Mogul’s jewels a large olive-shaped
pearl, perfect in form and luster. The weight was not noted, but from the
sketch which he gave (see Fig. 4) it may be estimated at about 125 grains. It
formed the central ornament of a chain of emeralds and rubies, which the
Mogul sometimes wore about his neck. He also listed a round pearl of
perfect form (see Fig. 5). The weight of this also is not noted, but from the
sketch it may be estimated at 110 grains. This was the largest perfectly
spherical pearl known to Tavernier. Its equal had never been found, and for
that reason it was kept with the unmounted jewels.
Among the other pearl treasures of the Great Mogul, Tavernier noted the
following:
(a) Two grand, pear-shaped pearls, one weighing about seventy ratis,[505] a
little flattened on both sides, and of beautiful water and good form. (b) A
button-shaped pearl, weighing from fifty-five to sixty ratis, of good form
and good water. (c) A round pearl of great perfection, a little flat on one side
and weighing fifty-six ratis; this had been presented to the Great Mogul by
Shah Abbas II, King of Persia. (d) Three round yellowish pearls weighing
from twenty-five to twenty-eight ratis each. (e) A perfectly round pearl,
thirty-five and a half ratis, white and perfect in all respects. This was the
only jewel purchased by the Great Mogul himself, the others being
inherited or coming to him as presents. (f) Two pearls perfectly shaped and
equal, each weighing twenty-five and a quarter ratis. (g) Also two chains,
one of pearls and rubies of different shapes pierced like the pearls; the other
of pearls and emeralds, round and bored. All of these pearls were round and
ranged in weight from ten to twelve ratis each.[506]

Peacock Throne. The famous Takht-i-Tâ’ûs, or “Peacock Throne,” at
Delhi doubtless contained the greatest accumulation of gems in the
seventeenth century. It was completed, in the eighth year of his reign (1044
A.H., 1634 A.D.) by Shah Jehan, greatest of Mogul sovereigns, who likewise
built the Taj Mahal at Agra, one of the most beautiful edifices ever designed

Page 569

by man. Abd-al-Hamid, of Lahore, in his Pâd-shâh-nâmah, “Book of the
King,” composed prior to 1654, writes as follows:[507]
In the course of years many valuable gems had come into the imperial jewel house, each one of
which might serve as an ear-drop for Venus or as an adornment for the girdle of the Sun. Upon the
accession of the emperor, it occurred to him that, in the opinion of far-seeing men the acquisition of
such rare jewels and the keeping of such wonderful brilliants could render but one service, that of
adorning the throne of the empire. They ought, therefore, to be put to such a use that beholders might
benefit by their splendour and that majesty might shine with increased brilliancy.
As described by Tavernier in 1676, great quantities of pearls were used in
the ornamentation of this throne, the arched roof, the supporting pillars, the
adjacent sun-umbrellas, being well covered with these gems, many of them
of great value. The choicest one was pear-shaped, yellowish in color, and
weighed about fifty carats (200 grains);[508] this was suspended from a great
ruby which ornamented the breast of the peacock. “But that which in my
opinion is the most costly thing about this magnificent throne is that the
twelve columns supporting the canopy are surrounded with beautiful rows
of pearls, which are round and of fine water, and weigh from 6 to 10 carats
each [24 to 40 grains].”[509] The total value of the jewels entering into the
ornamentation was estimated at 160,500,000 livres or $60,187,500; and the
present value of the throne as it stands in the shah’s palace at Teheran,
whither it was carried by Nadir Shah from the sack of Delhi in 1739, even
though divested of many of its most valuable gems, is estimated at
$13,000,000.[510] The designer of the Peacock Throne was Austin de
Bordeaux, who also planned the magnificent Taj Mahal. He was named by
Shah Jehan, “Jewel-Handed,” and received a salary of two thousand rupees
a month.

Shah’s “Tippet.” Sir Harford Jones Brydges’ description of the jewels of
the Shah of Persia at Teheran is of particular value, since he had formerly
dealt in jewels and was an expert in such matters. He says:
I was particularly struck with the king’s tippet, a covering for part of his back, his shoulders and
his arms, which is only used on the very highest occasions. It is a piece of pearl work of the most
beautiful pattern; the pearls are worked on velvet, but they stand so close together that little, if any, of
the velvet is visible. It took me a good hour to examine this single article, which I have no fear of
saying can not be matched in the world. There was not a single pearl employed in forming this most
gorgeous trapping less in size than the largest marrow-fat pea I ever saw raised in England, and many
—I should suppose from 150 to 200—the size of a wild plum, and throughout the whole of these
pearls, it would puzzle the best jeweler who should examine them most critically to discover in more
than 4 or 5 a serious fault. The tassel is formed of pearls of the most uncommon size and beauty; and
the emerald which forms the top of the tassel is perhaps the largest perfect one in the world.... For

Page 570

some days after I had seen these jewels, I attempted to make an estimate of their value, but I got so
confused in the recollection of their weight and the allowance to be made in some of them for their
perfection in water and color, that I gave it up as impossible. I cannot, however, think I shall much
mislead if I say that on a moderate, perhaps a low calculation, their value cannot be less than fifteen
millions [sterling?] of our money.[511]

Shah’s Pearls in 1820. Nearly a century ago the elaborate state costume
of the Shah of Persia was described by the English artist, Sir Robert Ker
Porter. In this description he mentioned particularly the pearls in the tiara,
the pear-shaped pearls of immense size with which the plumes were tipped,
the two strings of pearls—“probably the largest in the world”—which
crossed the king’s shoulders, and the large cushion incased in a network of
beautiful pearls against which he reclined.[512]

Pearls of the Gaikwar of Baroda. Among the greatest jeweled treasures
of India are those of the present Mahratta Gaikwar of Baroda, who has
precedence over all the rulers in India at all functions, and is one of the
most prominent and enlightened of the Indian princes. He governs a
province of about 8225 square miles and 2,415,396 inhabitants in the
northwestern part of India, 248 miles north of Bombay. Most of these
treasures, whose value is estimated at a dozen million dollars, were
collected by his predecessor, Mahratta Khandarao, who lived in barbaric
splendor, and they are rarely worn by the present gaikwar. These treasures
include a sash of one hundred rows of pearls, terminating in a great tassel of
pearls and emeralds; seven rows of superb pearls whose value is estimated
at half a million dollars; a litter set with seed-pearls, quantities of unstrung
pearls, and more remarkable yet, a shawl or carpet of pearls, which closely
resembles the “tippet” at Teheran described by Brydge. This carpet is said
to be ten and one half feet long by six feet wide, and to be made up of
strings of pearls, except that a border, eleven inches wide, and also center
ornaments, are worked out in diamonds. Some writers assert that this costly
ornament was originally intended by the late Mahratta Khandarao as a
covering for the tomb of Mohammed. Others state that it was designed as a
present for a woman of whom he was enamoured, but that the British
resident interfered, claiming that the wealth of Baroda was not sufficient to
warrant such an expensive gift on the part of the ruler. This ornament is
now retained among the regalia at Baroda, and is probably the most costly

Page 571

pearl ornament in the world, its value being estimated at several million
dollars.

Summer Palace in 1860. Many superb pearls were among the precious
objects in the Yuen-Min-Yuen or Summer Palace in Pekin at the time of its
capture by the European forces in 1860. Numbers of these were lost in the
confusion of the sacking and plunder, when the soldiers’ pockets were filled
and the floors were strewn with jewels, beautiful objects of gold and silver,
rich silks and furs, carved jade, lapis lazuli, etc. Some of the pearls found
their way to Europe, and especially to France and England. They were of
good size and luster and were mostly yellowish in color. Unfortunately,
many were crudely drilled with large holes, and had been strung on gold
wires by which they were attached to the idols they decorated at the time
they were stolen. More than one hundred, each over thirty grains in weight,
were received in England, and sold at an average of nearly one thousand
dollars.

PEARL CARPET OR
SHAWL OF THE GAIKWAR
OF BARODA

A similar booty came from the spoliation during the war between China
and Japan in 1894, and during the Boxer outbreaks of 1901, and quantities
of pearls, often large and of fine color, but a little the worse for wear, were

Page 572

brought to the United States and Europe by the soldiers and officials, and
also by traders and travelers who obtained them in China. The pendant
figured is one of these objects.

The Gogibus Pearl. This famous pearl, said to have been the largest in
Europe, weighed no less than 126 carats (504 grains). It was pear-shaped
and of fine orient, and was brought from the West Indies, in 1620, by
François Gogibus, a native of Calais, who sold it to Philip IV of Spain. As
no match could be found for this magnificent gem, it was mounted as a
button in the royal cap.[513]

La Reine des Perles. The large round pearl of the French crown jewels
which is listed in the inventory of 1791 at 200,000 francs, was purchased in
1669[514] for the sum of 40,000 livres, from a gem dealer named Bazu, who
had traveled in the East at about the time of Tavernier’s voyage. In the
inventory of 1691, it is described as “a virgin pearl, perfect, round, and of
fine water,” weighing 27½ carats and valued at 90,000 livres. When the
greater part of the jewels were stolen from the Garde-Meuble in 1792, we
are told that the thieves took a pearl inclosed in a gold box on which was
written: “The queen of pearls.” This was most probably the one we have
described and there is reason to believe that this same pearl came later into
the possession of the Zozima brothers, and was called La Pellegrina.

La Régente. This name was bestowed upon a big, ovate pearl which was
in the collection of the French crown jewels. This pearl, which weighs 337
grains, was furnished in November, 1811, by the court jewelers, Messrs.
Noitat, for a tiara, worn by Marie Louise, Empress of France. By order of
the emperor, Napoleon III, the pearl was taken out of the tiara and mounted,
in August, 1853, by the Paris jeweler Lemounier into a brooch. This great
brooch, with “La Régente” as the central gem, was bought by Faberge &
Company of St. Petersburg, Russia, for the Princess Youssoupoff at the
“Vente des Diamants de la Couronne” in 1887.

Page 573

La Pellegrina. For nearly a century there has been in Russia one of the
most lovely pearls in the world; this is La Pellegrina, formerly owned by
the Zozima brothers of Moscow, who were antiquarians of note in St.
Petersburg. In 1818 a small book of forty-eight pages was written about this
beautiful gem by G. Fischer de Waldheim, vice-president of the Imperial
Medico-Chirurgical Academy, probably the only book ever devoted to a
single pearl. According to this writer, La Pellegrina was purchased at
Leghorn by one of the Zozima brothers from an English admiral who had
just returned from India. It combines all the requisites of perfection: it is
absolutely spherical and has never been pierced; its luster, its silvery sheen,
make it appear almost transparent, and for a pearl of this high grade, it is of
remarkable size, weighing 111½ grains.
The Zozima brothers retained it in a sea-urchin shell mounted in gold and
with a convex lens as cover; this was contained in a silver box, and this in
turn in another box studded with gems. Although the lens enlarged the
appearance of the pearl, it detracted from its beautiful form, giving it an
oval shape. But when removed from the triple inclosure, it rolled about like
a globule of quicksilver, and surpassed that metal in whiteness and
brilliancy.
Everything that is beautiful and perfect takes such possession of the beholder that words become
insufficient to express his feelings; and that is what happened to me in the case of La Pellegrina of
Zozima. One must have seen an object of this kind in order to appreciate the impression it makes. As
an evidence of this, I shall note the last visit which I made to the owner in company with several
distinguished persons.
After having examined many curious medals and coins, and also some pearls which exceeded in
size the one of which I treat, and after they had received their due meed of admiration, La Pellegrina
appeared, rolled upon a sheet of paper by the owner’s little finger. Attention and admiration was
depicted on every face; a perfect silence reigned. It was only when the pearl had been removed very
carefully lest it should slip away, and was again triply enclosed, that we recovered the power of
speech and could unanimously express our admiration.[515]
As it had been stated that this pearl was in the possession of the Princess
Youssoupoff, Mr. Henry W. Hiller of New York, who was in St. Petersburg,
courteously made inquiries and was successful in obtaining a view of the
two splendid pear-shaped pearls. These are almost exactly alike, but neither
of them can well be La Pellegrina, since this is a round pearl; possibly the
one on the right may be La Peregrina.[516]

Page 574

THE HOPE PEARL.
WEIGHS 1800 GRAINS

Actual size

The owner of La Pellegrina in 1818, Z. P. Zozima, died in Moscow at a
great age, in 1827. He was a Greek dealer in curiosities and gems, who had
resided in Moscow for a long time, and had many clients among the
nobility of Russia. It is stated that a few months before his death the best
pieces of his collection, including La Pellegrina, were stolen from him by a
compatriot.

Moscow Pearl, 1840. The German traveler, Johann Georg Kohl (1808–
1878), in the account of his travels in Russia, relates an interesting incident
connected with a beautiful pearl in the Imperial Treasury. Shortly previous
to 1840, a rich Moscow merchant died in a convent, whither he had
retreated after the manner of the wealthy pious ones of his nation. Feeling
the approach of age, he had given up the toils of business to his sons. His
wife was dead, and the only beloved object which even in the cloister was
not separated from him was a large, beautiful, oriental pearl. This precious
object had been purchased for him by some Persian or Arabian friend at a
high price, and, enchanted by its water, magnificent size, and color, its
perfect shape and luster, he would never part with it, however enormous the
sum offered. He himself inhabited an ordinary cell in the convent; but this
object of his love reposed on silk in a golden casket. It was shown to few
persons, and favorable circumstances and strong recommendations were

Page 575

necessary to obtain such a favor. A Moscow resident reported the style and
manner of the ceremony. On the appointed day he went with his friends to
the convent, and found the old gentleman awaiting his guests in his holiday
clothes. Their reception had something of solemnity about it. The old man
went into his cell and brought out the casket in its rich covering. He spread
white satin on the table, and, unlocking the casket, let the precious pearl roll
out before the enchanted eyes of the spectators. No one ventured to touch it,
but all burst into acclamations, and the old man’s eyes gleamed like his
pearl. After a short time it was returned to the casket. During his last illness,
the old gentleman never let the pearl out of his hand, and after his death it
was with difficulty taken from his stiffened fingers.
There seems to be a great similarity between the description of this pearl
and that of La Pellegrina, although we have been unable to verify our
surmise as to their identity.

The Hope Pearl. In the first half of the last century, Henry Philip Hope, a
London banker, brought together a great collection of gems, among which
were many pearls. The most famous of these was the often-described Hope
pearl, one of the largest known; the value of which, however, is not in
proportion to its size, owing to its irregular formation. As described in the
catalogue of the Hope collection, published in 1839, this oriental pearl is of
an irregular pear-shape, weighs 1800 grains, or three ounces, measures two
inches in length, and in circumference four and one half inches at the
broadest and three and one fourth inches at the narrowest end. The color at
the larger end is of a bronze or a dark green copper tint, this gradually
clearing into a fine white luster for within one and one half inches of the
smaller end. This baroque pearl was firmly attached to the shell, and it yet
shows the point of attachment, which has been polished so as to correspond
to the remaining portion. It is attractively mounted, the smaller end being
capped with an arched crown of red enameled gold set with diamonds,
rubies, and emeralds.[517] After remaining in the Hope jewel collection at the
South Kensington Museum for many years, it was sold at auction, at
Christie’s, in 1886, when that collection was placed on the market. This
pearl is now held by Messrs. Garrard & Company of London, at the price of
£9000.

Page 576

The Hope collection also contained about 148 pearls of good form.
Notable among these were the following: (a) a conical pearl weighing 151
grains, cream-white in color, from Polynesia; (b) a bouton pearl of 124
grains, bluish-white at the top and encircled by a dark bronze color; (c) an
oval cream-colored pearl, weighing ninety-four grains, from the South Seas;
(d) an eighty-nine-grain, roughly spherical pearl, one side bluish and the
other of a light bronze; (e) an eighty-five-grain, acorn-shaped, bluish-white
pearl, with a band of opaque white near the base; (f) an oval conch pearl,
pink in general color and somewhat whitish at the ends, weighing eighty-
two and one fourth grains; (g) another conch pearl, seventy-seven and one
half grains, button-shaped, yellowish white with a slight shade of pink; (h) a
seventy-six-and-one-half-grain drop-shaped pearl of a chatoyant aspect, of
white color shaded with red, purple, and green; and (i) a pear-shaped
Scottish pearl of thirty-four and three fourths grains, of a milky bluish caste,
slightly tinged with pink.

Van Buren Pearls. Among the collections of the United States National
Museum are two pendant pearls each weighing about thirty grains, and a
necklace containing 148 pearls with an aggregate weight of 700 grains.
These were presented in 1840 to President Van Buren by the Imam of
Muscat. They were deposited in the vaults of the Treasury Department,
where they remained until a few years ago, when, by the order of the
Secretary of the Treasury, they were transferred to the custody of the
National Museum where they now are.

Page 577

HER GRACE, THE
DUCHESS OF
MARLBOROUGH

Thiers Necklace. In the galleries of the Louvre at Paris may be seen a
pearl necklace formerly owned by the wife of President Thiers (1797–
1887), consisting of 145 pearls in three rows. The weights of the three
largest individual pearls are fifty-one, thirty-nine, and thirty-six grains,
respectively. The aggregate weight is 2079 grains, and the value at the time
of their deposit was estimated at 300,000 francs. This is on a base of $2.02;
at a higher valuation the figures would be:

$148,947 = $71.64 per grain; base, $5
238,315 = 114.63 per grain; base, 8

the last being very probably nearer to the correct value of the necklace at
the present time.

Tiffany Queen Pearl. Doubtless the most famous pearl ever found within
the limits of the United States, and likewise one of the choicest, is the well-
known “Queen Pearl,” found in Notch Brook near Paterson, New Jersey, in
1857.[518] In form it is a perfect sphere, and weighs ninety-three grains. The
history of the discovery and of the sale of this beautiful gem is set forth on
page 260.

Page 578

The Bapst Pearls. Very practical is the account given by Streeter of a
pair of magnificent spherical pearls exhibited at the Paris Exhibition in
1878 by Messrs. Bapst of Paris. One of these pearls—then weighing 116
grains—was purchased by Mr. Streeter in 1877, and by him sold to a
leading merchant of London, who skilfully removed a blemish on it,
reducing it to 113¾ grains in weight. After holding it for some months, it
occurred to him that it would match a pearl sold by Hunt and Roskell to
Dhuleep Singh about fifteen years previously. On comparison, the two were
found to match perfectly, one weighing 113¾ and the other 113¼ grains.
The two were eventually sold early in 1878 “for £4800, which was even
then much below their value, and to-day they would be worth £10,000.
They were exhibited in the great Paris Exposition in 1878, where they
attracted universal attention, and were pronounced by connoisseurs to be
the most extraordinary pair of pearls ever seen in Europe. They were sold
from the exhibition to an individual for a very large sum.”[519]

The “Southern Cross.” The “Southern Cross” is an unusual pearl or
rather cluster of pearls which attracted much attention twenty years ago. It
consists of nine attached pearls forming a Roman cross about one and one
half inches in length, seven pearls constituting the shaft or standard, while
the arms are formed by one pearl on each side of the second one from the
upper end. The luster is good, but the individual pearls are not perfect
spheres, being mutually compressed at the point of juncture and
considerably flattened at the back. If separated, the aggregate value of the
individual pearls would be small, and the celebrity of the ornament is due
almost exclusively to its form. This striking formation was exhibited at the
Colonial and Indian Exhibition at London in 1886, and later at the Paris
Exhibition in 1889, where it was the center of interest, and obtained a gold
medal for the exhibitors. It is reported that an effort was made to bring
about its sale at £10,000, the owners suggesting that it was especially
appropriate for presentation to Leo XIII, on the occasion of his jubilee in
1896. The writers have been unable to obtain information as to its present
location.
Much information relative to the “Southern Cross” was volunteered by
Henry Taunton in the very interesting account of his wanderings in
Australia. He presents apparently reliable statements showing that it was

Page 579

found on March 26, 1883, off Baldwin Creek in Lat. 17° S. and Long. 122°
E., by a boy named Clark, in the employ of James W. S. Kelly, a master
pearler. When delivered to Kelly, it was in three distinct pieces, but the boy
reported that it was in one piece when he found it a few hours before. Kelly
sold it in the three pieces in which he received it for £10 to a fellow pearler
named Roy; Roy sold it for £40 to a man named Craig, and he sold it to an
Australian syndicate.
However, according to Taunton’s positive statement, there were only
eight pearls in the cluster when it was sold by Kelly in 1883, and to make it
resemble a well-proportioned cross—the right arm being absent—another
pearl of suitable size and shape was subsequently secured at Cossack and
attached in the proper place to the others, which, in the meantime, had been
refastened together by diamond cement, thus making three artificial joints
in the present cluster. “As if to assist in the deception, nature had fashioned
a hollow in the side of the central pearl just where the added pearl would
have to be fitted; and—the whole pearling fleet with their pearls and shells
coming into Cossack about this time—it was no difficult matter to select a
pearl of the right size and with the convexity required. The holder paid
some ten or twelve pounds for the option of selecting a pearl within given
limits; and then once more, with the aid of diamond cement and that of a
skilful ‘faker,’ this celebrated gem was transformed into a perfect cross.”[520]

Morgan-Tiffany Collection. Probably the most interesting assortment
of American pearls is the Morgan-Tiffany Collection in the American
Museum of Natural History, New York. The excellence of this collection
lies, not in the high cost of any individual pearl, but in its illustrating in a
comprehensive manner the great variety, colors, and forms of American
pearls. Not only are the many varieties of fresh-water pearls represented,
but likewise abalone pearls from the Pacific coast, conch pearls from the
Gulf of Mexico, and a good assortment of pearly concretions from edible
oysters and clams of the Atlantic coast.
This collection contains 557 species of white and colored Unio pearls,
four multicolored, five mallet-shapes, 166 baroques, thirty-nine hinge
pearls, twenty pearlaceous masses, thirty-four clam (Venus) pearls, fifteen
abalone pearls, eleven conch pearls, and twelve oyster (Ostrea) pearls. The
collection was exhibited in two parts, the first at the Paris Exposition of

Page 580

1889, and the second at the Paris Exposition of 1900. On each occasion a
gold medal was awarded.

Count Batthyani’s Pearl. A curious history is connected with a beautiful
black pearl[521] which was at one time in the possession of Count Louis
Batthyani, the premier of the revolutionary government of Hungary. The
count was shot in 1849, by the orders of a court-martial, and on the eve of
his execution he gave the pearl, which he had worn mounted on a scarf-pin,
to his trusty and faithful valet. The latter left it to his son, who, when in
straightened circumstances, sought to raise money upon the pearl. The
pawnbroker of the small town was distrustful of its value and took it to
Budapest for appraisal. There the suspicions of the authorities were aroused,
an investigation was ordered, and it was finally discovered that the pearl
had been stolen one hundred and fifty years before from the English crown.
The English government redeemed it for the sum of £2500 ($12,500). How
it came into the possession of Count Batthyani is a mystery; probably he
purchased it from some antiquarian.
In 1900 there was shown in Paris one of the most important black pearls
of any time, a pear-shaped pearl of forty-nine grains, of a most wonderful
black color with a green sheen, as perfectly formed as though it had been
turned out of a lathe; it did not terminate in a point at the small end, but was
slightly flattened. It was so beautiful an object that it almost seemed it
should never be drilled for mounting. This pearl ultimately sold for more
than $30,000, and it is probably the finest black pearl that has ever reached
the European markets.
According to a personal communication from E. Z. Steever, governor of
the District of Sulu, the largest pearl that he has seen in the islands belongs
to the sultan, and is now in the possession of Hadji Butu, former prime
minister. It is an oblate spheroid, there being a trifling difference between
the two diameters. The upper hemisphere is very beautiful; the lower one
has a few minute, black specks which are superficial and could be easily
removed, the pearl not having been treated since it was taken from the
oyster. This pearl measures five eighths of an inch at its greatest diameter
and is said to weigh twelve carats (forty-eight grains). Hadji Butu informed
Governor Steever that the sultan had refused $25,000 for the pearl in
Singapore.

Page 581

The Nordica pearl is the finest abalone of which we have any record. It
weighs 175 grains, is a drop pearl of a greenish hue, with brilliant red fire-
like flashes, and serves as a pendant to the famous collection of colored
pearls belonging to the beloved and admired American prima donna,
Madam Nordica.
At the International Exposition in Paris in 1889, Mr. Alphonse Falco,
president of the Chambre Syndicale, exhibited a round pearl, white and
lustrous, weighing seventy grains, and valued at 50,000 francs.
Augusto Castellani, the well-known Italian jeweler of Rome, in the year
1868, during the Papal regime, executed a crown for King Victor
Emmanuel II. This crown was destined for the Church of the Holy
Sepulchre, in Jerusalem, and on it is a pearl which, although slightly
irregular, is as large as the famous Gogibus pearl.
A remarkable golden-yellow pearl from Shark’s Bay, West Australia, is in
the possession of a New York lady; it weighs thirty and one half grains, is
perfectly round, and is without a flaw or blemish.

Crown Jewels of France. The collection of gems known as the Crown
Jewels of France owed its origin to Francis I (1494–1547). While in
Bordeaux, on his way to meet his bride, Eleanor of Austria, sister of
Emperor Charles V, Francis created by letter patent the Treasure of the
Crown Jewels, giving to the state a number of his most valued diamonds,
under the condition that at each change of sovereign a careful inventory
should be made. The original collection consisted of six pieces of jewelry
valued at 272,242 “écus soleil,” or about $700,000. The crown jewels have
passed through many vicissitudes in the course of time. A number of the
gems were at various times pledged as security for loans made in France
and Italy, and it is said that in 1588, during the reign of Henry III, all the
jewels disappeared from the royal treasury. Henry IV strove to regather the
scattered ornaments, but it was only in the reign of Louis XIV that the
collection became really important. At the time of the French Revolution, in
1791, an inventory was made by the order of the National Assembly.

Page 582

THE MADAM NORDICA
COLLECTION OF
COLORED PEARLS

The Nordica drop pearl
weighs 175 grains

The jewels were then deposited in the Garde-Meuble, where they were
exposed to public view. Either they were very carelessly guarded, or the
guardians were in collusion with a band of thieves, for the room wherein
they were kept was entered on five successive nights, and when the theft
was finally discovered only about 500,000 francs’ ($100,000) worth of the
gems remained. Many of the most valuable objects were, however, traced
and recovered. Napoleon I, when he became emperor, made every effort to
enrich the treasure, and purchased gems to the value of 6,000,000 francs
($1,200,000), and subsequent rulers added to the collection on various
occasions.
At the time of the official inventory in 1791 the entire collection of pearls
was estimated at about 1,000,000 francs ($200,000). The finest specimen in
the collection was a splendid round pearl weighing 109¼ grains[522] and
estimated at 200,000 francs ($40,000), or $366 per grain, on a base of
$3.35. Then came two pear-shaped pearls of a fine orient and well-matched,
weighing respectively 117¾ and 113 grains, and valued at 300,000 francs
($60,000) or $260 per grain, on a base of $2.25. In addition to the above

Page 583

there were twenty-five separate round pearls which had constituted the
necklace of the queen; they ranged in weight from 36 to 165½ grains, and
were valued at about 90,000 francs ($18,000). Beside the pear-shaped
pearls to which we have alluded, there were two other pairs, each valued at
32,000 francs ($6400) for the two pearls; they averaged about 100 grains in
weight. In addition to these there were two weighing respectively 175½ and
205¼ grains, each valued at 20,000 francs ($4000), and seven others
ranging in weight from 92½ to 167 grains and valued at from 10,000 to
15,000 francs ($2000 to $3000). The best oval pearl was one weighing
seventy-six and one half grains and estimated at 20,000 francs ($4000);
there were two others, one of ninety-three grains, valued at 12,000 francs
($2400), and one of 121 grains, valued at 10,000 francs ($2000). We may
also mention an egg-shaped pearl weighing 145¼ grains, estimated as
worth 10,000 francs ($2000), and a button pearl of 198 grains entered at
15,000 francs ($3000). Beside these separate pearls there were eleven
strings comprising 310 pearls, weighing in all 6778 grains and valued at but
29,400 francs (about $6000). The average per pearl was 95 francs ($19),
less than one dollar a grain.
These pearls, according to their beauty, would now be worth from four to
six times the valuation here given, so that the two large pear-shaped pearls
of the French crown may be worth to-day $200,000 and the great round
pearl from $100,000 to $250,000.
Many of these pearls were a century old. They were collected at a time
when not as much attention was paid to their absolute perfection and beauty
as at the present time, for there probably never has been a period when rare
and perfect pearls, diamonds, or rubies have been appreciated so much
more highly than those of mediocre quality.

Page 584

RECAPITULATION

Weight in grains Value
No. Average Total Francs U. S. currency
Round Pearls 1 109¼ 200,000 $40,000
3 79 238½ 29,000 5,800
11 77¼ 804½ 37,300 7,460
7 64½ 450½ 19,400 3,880
14 53¾ 753¼ 23,100 4,620
43 34½ 1488½ 16,100 3,220
Pear-shaped 2 115⅜ 230¾ 300,000 60,000
4 99¼ 397½ 64,000 12,800
6 163⅛ 978¾ 92,000 18,400
8 114¼ 914¼ 55,000 11,000
47 42¼ 1989¾ 24,600 4,920
Oval 3 27 290½ 42,000 8,400
9 72½ 654¼ 20,100 4,020
11 43 473¾ 5,000 1,000
Egg-shaped 1 145¼ 10,000 2,000
Irregular 12 39½ 475¼ 7,300 1,460
Button 1 198 15,000 3,000
6 66¼ 398 4,900 980
Baroque 4 37½ 150¾ 1,500 300
Strings 310 21⅞ 6778 29,400 5,880

503 35⅜ 17,919¼ 995,700 $199,140

Page 585

GRAND PEARL DIADEM OF THE FRENCH CROWN
JEWELS

Containing 212 pearls weighing 2452 grains, and 1990
diamonds weighing 74 27–32 carats. Worn by the Empress
Eugénie

After the downfall of Napoleon III and the proclamation of the French
Republic, the jewels were inventoried, and, by a law passed December 10,
1886, it was decreed that a large part of the treasure should be sold at public
auction. The sale was held in the Pavilion de Flore, a part of the Palace of
the Tuileries, on May 12, 1887, and, very naturally, all the principal gem
dealers and collectors were represented. A number of remarkable pearl
ornaments were among the objects offered at this sale, one of the most
beautiful being a diadem of an exceptionally artistic openwork design,
adorned with large, round pearls and surmounted by a row of magnificent
pear-shaped pearls. The total number of pearls in this diadem was 212, and
their weight 2452 grains. It was sold for the sum of 78,000 francs
($15,600). The coronet which accompanied the diadem comprised 274
pearls, weighing 984 grains; the design was similar to that of the diadem,
but the points consisted of a round and a pear-shaped pearl in alternation.
This ornament realized the sum of 30,000 francs ($6000). A large brooch of
very elaborate and beautiful design, beside a number of smaller pearls,
comprised four fine, pear-shaped pendants, weighing 100 grains each, and
two choice bouton pearls, and had in the center the famous pearl known as
“La Régente,” which was purchased in 1811 for 40,000 francs ($8000).
This splendid ornament brought the sum of 176,000 francs ($35,200). Four
other brooches each contained seven pearls and many brilliants, the twenty-

Page 586

eight pearls having a total weight of 1496 grains, an average of more than
fifty-three grains. Each brooch had two pearls surrounded with brilliants,
and five large, pear-shaped pearls set as pendants. They were sold to
different purchasers at prices ranging from 18,500 francs ($3700) to 43,000
francs ($8600), the four together realizing 113,500 francs ($22,700).
Six pearl necklaces were also offered. One of forty-seven pearls
weighing 698 grains was sold for 34,600 francs ($6920), and two others,
each consisting of fifty-eight pearls, with a total weight of 524 and 400
grains respectively, brought the sum of 22,300 francs ($4460) and 15,000
francs ($3000). Another necklace composed of thirty-eight round pearls and
nine pear-shaped pendants, the total weight being 1612 grains, sold for
74,300 francs ($14,860). The two finest necklaces were broken up into a
number of separate lots. One of them, consisting of 362 pearls and
weighing in all 5808 grains,—an average of a trifle over sixteen grains,—
was offered in four lots which together brought 295,800 francs ($59,160).
The other necklace comprised 542 pearls weighing 6752 grains, and was
disposed of in eight lots, realizing in all 331,800 francs ($66,360). Two
bracelets adorned with 202 pearls and a number of small brilliants were
purchased for the sum of 90,200 francs ($18,040). The total amount realized
for the pearl ornaments was 1,261,500 francs ($252,300). There are several
American ladies who own single strings of pearls which are of more value
than the whole pearl parure of the Empress Eugénie.
Pearl parure of the crown jewels of France, worn by the Empress
Eugénie, and sold at the Tuileries, May 12, 1887.
A diadem containing 212 pearls, weighing 2452 grains.
A coronet with 274 pearls, weighing 984 grains.
Four brooches, each containing four large pearls, two round, two pear-
shaped, and three smaller ones, weighing in all 1496 grains.
A larger brooch comprising four large pear-shaped pearls, each weighing
100 grains. In the center is the pearl called “La Régente.”
Two necklaces each consisting of forty-seven pearls, with an aggregate
weight of 698 and 1612 grains, respectively.
Two bracelets with 202 pearls, weighing 2000 grains.
Five buttons, three with nine and two with ten pearls.
A necklace of 542 pearls, weighing 6752 grains.

Page 587

Another necklace of 362 pearls, weighing 5808 grains.
Two other necklaces, each containing fifty-eight pearls, the total weight
being 400 and 524 grains, respectively.

SUMMARY OF THE PRINCIPAL PEARL ORNAMENTS FORMING THE PEARL
PARURE OF THE FRENCH CROWN JEWELS SOLD AT PALACE OF THE
TUILERIES IN MAY, 1887

Designation No. of pearls Aggregate weight grains Amount rec’d francs
1 necklace 362 5,808 295,800
1 necklace 542 6,752 331,800
1 necklace 47 698 34,600
1 necklace 58 524 22,300
1 necklace 58 400 15,000
1 necklace 47 1,612 74,300
2 bracelets 202 2,000 90,200
1 large diadem 212 2,452 78,000
1 coronet 274 984 30,000
1 brooch 45 1,200 176,000
4 brooches 28 1,496 113,500

Total 1875 23,926 1,261,500

Imperial Austrian Schatzkammer. The weights and values of the great
gathering of pearls of the imperial Austrian Schatzkammer were carefully
estimated by one of the authors and by his friends, and it is the first
attempted inventory ever published.[523]
The imperial crown of the Holy Roman Empire, preserved in the treasury
of the imperial Burg at Vienna, and known as the crown of Charlemagne,
has in front seventeen pearls weighing 424 grains, of which two weigh
fifty-six grains each. The remaining fifteen pearls average 20.8 grains. The
values of these pearls are as follows:

Page 588

Base
$2.50 $5.00 $7.50
15 pearls, 20.8 grains $16,224 $32,448 $48,672
2 56–grain pearls 15,680 31,360 47,040

Total $31,904 $63,808 $95,712

THE IMPERIAL AUSTRIAN
CROWN

Made by order of Emperor
Rudolph II, in 1604

At the back of the crown there are eighteen pearls, weighing 180 grains.
One of these has a weight of twenty-six grains; the remaining seventeen
average 9.058 grains. The values estimated are as follows:

Base
$2.50 $5.00 $7.50
17 pearls, 9.058 grains $3,487.55 $6,975.10 $10,462.65
1 pearl of 26 grains 1,690.00 3,380.00 5,070.00

Total $5,177.55 $10,355.10 $15,532.65

The pearls in the cross surmounting the crown have a weight of thirty-six
grains.

Page 589

The imperial cross is profusely ornamented with pearls in front, while the
back consists simply of silver-gilt. There are three strings of pearls in the
front running in each direction. The total weight of the pearls is 4092
grains; one weighing sixty-four grains, and the smallest two grains.
The crucifix of the Golden Fleece is ornamented only in front with
pearls; these have a weight of but 136 grains.
The imperial Austrian regalia, dating from the time of Emperor Rudolph
II, are also in the imperial Burg; some of the emperor’s jewels were sold at
auction in Prague in 1728.
The crown is adorned with two rows of pearls, weighing respectively 960
and 840 grains; between these rows are pearls having a total weight of 440
grains, while the ornaments and eight large drops weigh 2052 grains. The
largest pearl on this crown weighs 104 grains. It is drop-shaped and
belonged to Rudolph II; it is slightly uneven and the color, although white,
is not that of a new pearl, but this pearl has a positive history of three
hundred and six years, and at the present time is probably the oldest known
unchanged pearl with a direct and authentic record.
The imperial orb is studded with pearls weighing in all 1560 grains. Four
of these weigh forty grains each, the others are of lesser size, the smallest
weighing ten grains. The scepter is adorned with pearls to the weight of 300
grains.
In addition to these insignia and regalia there are in the treasury two
magnificent pearl necklaces, deposited by Empress Maria Theresa in 1765.
The first consists of a single string of 114 large-sized pearls with the
“Baden Solitaire,” a diamond of 30 carats, as a clasp. Three of these pearls
weigh from 92 to 100 grains each, and the whole string has a total weight of
3400 grains. This would give us the following values, the pearls averaging
29.82 grains.

Base
$2.50 $253,432.12
5.00 506,864.24

The other necklace contains 121 pearls of a total weight of 3788 grains,
arranged in three rows; these pearls average 31.3 grains, the largest

Page 590

weighing forty grains and the smallest ten grains. The necklace has a
diamond clasp of 141⁄32 carats. The pearls are worth:

Base
$2.50 $296,450
5.00 592,900
7.50 889,350

Two bracelets with brilliant clasps, belonging to the same set, and
consisting of 240 medium-sized pearls weighing 2800 grains and averaging
11⅔ grains, have the following values:

Base
$2.50 $81,658.80
5.00 163,317.60
7.50 244,976.40

There is also a pendant of six pearls, weighing 300 grains and averaging
fifty grains; these pearls are worth:

Base
$2.50 $37,500
5.00 75,000
7.50 112,500

Another necklace, bequeathed to the treasury by the late Empress
Caroline Augusta, consists of eighty-six pearls disposed in two rows, the
largest pearl weighing seventy-two grains and the smallest eight grains. The
total weight is 2600 grains and the average, 30.2. This necklace is worth:

Base
$2.50 $196,088.60
5.00 392,177.20
7.50 588,265.80

Still another necklace is composed altogether of black pearls, of which
there are thirty, the largest weighing forty-eight grains and the smallest ten.

Page 591

The total weight of this necklace is 1040 grains, an average of 34.66 grains
for each pearl. On a base of $5 this necklace is worth $180,150.
The diamond crown of the empress bears pearls to the total weight of
2000 grains; among them are four weighing 100 grains each. These pearls
alone, on a $5 base, would be worth $200,000.

THE GREAT
SÉVIGNÉ OF THE
FRENCH CROWN
JEWELS

Containing “The
Regent Pearl,”
weighing 337
grains, and four
pear-shaped pearls
of 100 grains each;
also 100 carats of
diamonds

The total weight of the pearls in all these ornaments is 35,816 grains,
equal to four and a half pounds, avoirdupois, and they are worth from
$2,000,000 to $4,000,000.
The so-called crown of Charlemagne bears the inscription: “Chuonradus
Rex Dei gratia Romanorum Imperator Aug.” It is believed to be a work of
the twelfth century and originally the royal crown of Conrad III, king of the
Germans (1093–1152), the first Hohenstaufen.[524] The arch is said to have
been added to adapt this royal crown for use in the expected coronation of

Page 592

Conrad as emperor. He died, however, while making preparations for his
journey to Rome.
The imperial vestments used in the coronation ceremonies of the Holy
Roman Empire, were produced in the celebrated Hôtel de Tirâz, at Palermo.
Roger II, King of Sicily (1096–1154), after a victorious campaign in
Greece, brought back with him to Sicily a number of skilled silk-weavers
and embroiderers, whom he established at Palermo. The imperial mantle is
of a brilliant purple and bears an inscription, embroidered in gold and
pearls, stating that the garment was made in the royal manufactory in the
year 1133. Two pearl-embroidered representations of a lion, who has
stricken down a camel and is about to tear it to pieces, also appear on this
mantle. This symbol of royal power was used frequently by the Saracens,
and it is said that Richard Cœur de Lion had this design embroidered on his
saddlecloths.[525]
A fine collection of large baroque pearls is preserved in the Grüne
Gewölbe (Green Vaults) in the palace at Dresden, which contains the
treasures of the royal family of Saxony. Most of these were mounted during
the eighteenth century by J. M. Dinglinger (1665–1731), the famous
goldsmith to the Saxon Elector, King Augustus II of Poland, and who is
sometimes called the German Cellini. A splendid specimen of his work is a
vase of Egyptian jasper in the shape of a shell, bearing a representation of
Hercules fighting with the Nemæan lion; this bears reference to the
immense personal strength and power of Augustus II, whose portrait is
painted in enamel on a mirror at the back. The pedestal is adorned with a
great many precious stones, pearls, and enamel paintings in the shape of
cameos representing the twelve labors of Hercules. A dragon is studded
with emeralds and its back is formed of pearls, with a large sardonyx in the
middle. Hercules and the lion are in enamel.
In the same collection may be seen the figure of a dwarf made by
Ferbecq, who was one of the goldsmiths of King Augustus. The body of the
dwarf is formed of a baroque pearl, which is studded with small diamonds.
His sleeves and trousers are in black and green enamel; his hat is also of
green enamel and on it is a string of diamonds. In his right hand the dwarf
holds a spit and in his left a roast. On his left shoulder he bears a goose, the
upper part of whose body is formed of a pearl; at his right side hangs a
bottle also formed of a pearl. The gilded pedestal is ornamented with white

Page 593

enamel work on a pink ground. Above and below, it is set with white and
yellow diamonds. Another figure, similarly formed of a large baroque pearl
ornamented with gold and diamonds, shows a drunken vintager and his dog;
and an exceedingly grotesque, ornamented baroque is said to bear a striking
resemblance to Señor Pepe, the court dwarf of Charles II of Spain.
Exhibited at the Palace of Rosenberg at Copenhagen, are similar designs
in which large baroques form the principal part of fish, birds, dragons,
mermaids, etc. Prominent among them is the figure of a skater, executed by
the jeweler, Diederichsen; it is said that this was made for Frederick VII,
who died before it was accepted, and in 1895 it was presented to the
museum.
A beautiful and costly figure of this nature was completed a year or two
ago by the court jeweler, Alfred Dragsen, of Copenhagen. This is nearly
four inches in height, and represents a female snake-charmer. A very long
baroque pearl forms the body from the shoulders to the knees, and the head,
arms, and the legs below the knees are of gold. The figure is ornamented
with a diamond-studded garland, ruby necklace and earrings, and garters set
with similar gems, a red enameled girdle ornamented with pearls, and
golden anklets with black pearls. With a flute she charms a serpent twined
about her body and grasped with the other hand.
What is said to be the finest collection of black pearls in all Europe is that
belonging to the Duchess of Anhalt Dessau, Germany. It consists of three
large caskets of black pearls that have taken a century to collect. It is
traditional in the family that these pearls are never to be sold except as their
last possession, since they know they will always find a purchaser.
A collection of pearls had been kept for many years in the Monte de
Piedad of Mexico City, which it was claimed had been pawned by a friend
of the Empress Carlotta, in order to provide her with money at the time of
the assassination of Emperor Maximilian. These pearls were contained in a
necklace and a pearl and diamond tiara, which were sewn upon cardboard
covered with black velvet, and had the appearance of not having been
disturbed for many years. The necklace consisted of old pearls, both of the
so-called Madras and Panama varieties; in the center was a large diamond
medallion from which pear-shaped pearls were suspended. It is believed
that these pearls were part of Empress Carlotta’s marriage portion, and that
they came from the Austrian crown jewel collection. None of them

Page 594

possessed much quality with the exception of one, a large pear-shaped pearl
which was set at the base of the necklace and weighed eighty-four grains.
The drilling of this pearl was of a very old style, being of that type in which
a tube is inserted in the drill hole, through which a gold wire passes to hold
the pearl; a diamond is then set at the base of the tube to disguise the drill
mark. It is, however, possible that the pearl came from the East Indies,
where large drill holes are usual.

MADAM NORDICA

The pearls were sent in bond to the United States as a collection, and then
to Europe, where they were sold separately, the pear-shaped pearl appearing
again in the New York market in 1906. There has been some doubt as to
these really being Carlotta’s pearls, but the Mexican account is fairly
consistent, and it satisfactorily disposes of the newspaper romance in which
it was claimed that Carlotta had taken these pearls with her to Europe and
that they had been buried in a casket in the Adriatic Sea.

Recent Auction Sales. In England and in France, more than in the
United States, great auction sales of jewels are common. They are held in
London, principally at Christie’s, originally a coffee house, established in
1880; and in Paris, at the Hôtel Drouot. Good prices are generally realized,
as the buyers of the entire continent attend these great sales. The purchases
are usually made by dealers who frequently do not neglect each other’s
interests if private buyers are present. No matter how great may be the

Page 595

amount involved, no matter whether the collections consist of paintings,
furniture, or jewels, there are always buyers, to a much greater extent than
in the United States. The price for fine jewels may naturally vary a trifle in
the different markets, according to the conditions of payment. It must
evidently make an appreciable difference whether almost the entire amount
is paid in cash or whether a credit of thirty days is extended, or one for a
much longer period, in some countries for as long as one, two, or even three
years.
While in the United States such sales of valuable jewels are very unusual,
it has been a custom in England and in France for many years, in the
settlement of estates, to sell not only the furniture, bric-à-brac, etc., but also
the jewels. Sales of this kind are naturally calculated to attract not only the
dealers, but also many rich collectors and connoisseurs, and as they are
frequently widely advertised, and London and Paris are, at the most, but one
to two days’ journey from all parts of Europe, many people attend, most of
the private buyers being represented by their agents. By means of these
sales many heirlooms, which have been handed down from generation to
generation, often pass into the possession of strangers. In the matter of
jewels, it has been frequently noticed that dealers are in the majority of
cases the ultimate buyers, and it has also been inferred that when an
outsider participates in the bidding, the prices are advanced to such an
extent that it does not often appear profitable for him to buy in the face of
such competition. All manner of people have had their estates disposed of in
this way, and the list of these sales during the past twenty years is a striking
one: royalty, nobility, merchants, and people in many other conditions of
life find a place in it.
It is not an infrequent custom in London for solicitors to advance money
on jewels, and when the payments are not forthcoming these jewels are
sold. Hence, many sales appear at the larger auction rooms in which no
name is given, the owners frequently being people of high degree.
On July 19, 1892, a necklace containing eighty-five graduated pearls of unusual size and quality,
the property of the late H. W. F. Bolchow, M.P., was sold in London for the sum of £2500 ($12,500).
Another necklace of 146 fine graduated pearls disposed in two rows, brought £2400 ($12,000); a
single-row necklace of eighty-five pearls realized £1600 ($8000), and one of 118 pearls in two rows
£1660 ($8300).
An exceptionally fine pearl necklace which belonged to her Grace the late Caroline, Duchess of
Montrose, mother of the present Duke of Montrose, was sold at Christie’s on April 30, 1895. The
necklace comprised 362 graduated pearls, arranged in seven rows of forty-four, forty-seven, forty-

Page 596

eight, forty-nine, fifty-two, fifty-eight, and sixty-four pearls, respectively. The amount realized for
this ornament was £11,500 ($57,500).
On July 9, 1901, a pearl necklace, advertised as the property of “a French lady of rank,” and
several other valuable pearl ornaments, were offered at Christie’s. It is supposed by many that these
jewels belonged to Madame Humbert. The necklace was composed of six rows of graduated pearls
consisting of fifty-five, sixty-one, sixty-seven, seventy-three, seventy-nine, and eighty-nine pearls,
respectively, a total of 424, all of good color and luster. A London dealer considers that they owed
their value mainly to skilful matching and fineness of color; they are perhaps a century old. As may
be supposed, there were many bidders who competed eagerly for possession of this fine ornament,
and it was at last adjudged for the sum of £20,000 ($100,000). While this was, up to that date, a
record price in an auction room, it was by no means an exceptional figure for private sales; indeed, at
about the time this necklace was sold, a London dealer disposed of another for £34,000 ($170,000).
A necklace, the property of the late Lady Matheson of the Lews, was sold at Christie’s, March 5,
1902. Well-matched and graduated round pearls, to the number of 233, were disposed in four rows,
and strung with seed-pearls between. This necklace, which had been presented to Lady Matheson at
the time of her marriage in 1843 by Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy, Bart., brought the sum of £6800
($34,000).
A pearl necklace, containing fifty-three fine and graduated pearls, was sold in London, June 9,
1902, for the sum of £2250 ($11,250). Another necklace of sixty-eight fine round pearls, one of
which formed the clasp, brought £1580 ($7900). A beautiful pearl and brilliant pendant of open scroll
design, with a large, round white pearl in the center, and a large, pear-shaped black pearl as drop,
realized £800 ($4000), and a pearl collar of ten rows of round pearls brought £820 ($4100). A
noteworthy offering at this sale was a rope of 135 pearls, an heirloom sold under the will of Lady
Marianna Augusta Hamilton. These pearls had been given to Lady Augusta Anne Cockburn in 1769
on the occasion of her marriage to Sir James Cockburn, Bart., by her godmother, Augusta, Duchess
of Brunswick, sister to George III. The rope was sold for £900 ($4500).
The pearls of Lady Dudley were sold at Christie’s on July 4, 1902. Among them was a magnificent
necklace of forty-seven slightly graduated round pearls, of large size and unusually brilliant orient;
their gross weight was 1090 grains. This necklace brought the sum of £22,200 ($111,000). A single
pear-shaped pearl of the finest orient mounted with a diamond cap, as a pendant, and weighing 209
grains, was sold for £13,500 ($67,500). A rope of 222 graduated round pearls of the highest quality,
weighing 2320 grains was purchased for £16,700 ($83,500), and a pearl and brilliant tiara brought
£10,300 ($51,500). The entire casket of thirty-one lots realized £89,526 ($447,630).
At the sale of the jewels of Mlle. Wanda de Boncza, at the Hôtel Drouot, Paris, December 6, 1902,
a fine necklace was disposed of for the sum of 150,000 francs ($30,000), and a rope of 100 small
pearls realized 38,100 francs ($7620); the proceeds of the entire sale of these jewels were 1,249,578
francs ($249,915).
Among the Aqualia jewels, sold in London in 1903, was a pearl necklace that brought £4480
($22,400).
The jewels of the late Marquis of Anglesey, an enthusiastic jewel and art collector, were disposed
of at Christie’s on May 4 and 5, 1904. At the time of his death, the marquis was supposed to be a
bankrupt, but the value of the gems which he had purchased had increased so rapidly that the sale
realized the sum of £22,988 10s. ($114,942), more than enough to cover all the obligations of the
estate. Of this amount a magnificent drop pearl, mounted as a scarf-pin, brought £4000 ($20,000);
another drop pearl of the finest orient, weighing 105½ grains, but slightly cracked, was sold for
£3700 ($18,500). Four other drop-shaped pearls, mounted as scarf-pins, were sold for £5220
($26,100), one of them bringing £1720 ($8600). A single bouton pearl, used as a coat fastener,
realized £980 ($4900), and a pearl trefoil was purchased for £580 ($2900). One fine large bouton

Page 597

pearl, set as a stud, was disposed of for £3000 ($15,000), and another somewhat smaller bouton, also
set as a stud, brought £1600 ($8000).
A splendid necklace comprising forty-nine well-matched and graduated pearls of fine quality,
weighing 563½ grains, was sold in London on June 29, 1905, for the sum of £4700 ($23,500). At the
same sale a necklace of thirty-two graduated pearls, weighing about 890 grains, brought £2600
($13,000).
On July 20, 1905, a pearl necklace comprising forty-five graduated pearls of fine orient, with a
cabochon ruby clasp, the gross weight being 832 grains, was sold in London for £3150 ($15,750).
A fine pearl and brilliant pendant was disposed of at the sale in London, February 21, 1906, of the
stock of Mr. E. M. Marcoso. This pendant was composed of one large white brilliant, weighing
181⁄32 carats, and a drop-shaped pearl weighing 75¾ grains. The ornament brought the sum of £2050
($10,250).
A pearl necklace composed of 285 well-matched and graduated pearls disposed in five rows was
sold in London on June 13, 1906, for the sum of £10,000 ($50,000). At the same sale a three-row
necklace, with 213 graduated and matched pearls of fine orient, brought £3200 ($16,000), and a rope
of 237 fine pearls realized £2800 ($14,000).
Among the jewels disposed of at a sale in London on July 11, 1906, may be mentioned a five-row
pearl necklace of 445 graduated oriental pearls which was sold for £2500 ($12,500). Three other
necklaces were offered at the same sale; one of fifty-five matched and graduated pearls of fine
quality bringing £3400 ($17,000); one of fifty-seven pearls, £2700 ($13,500), and the other of 219
well-matched and graduated pearls realizing £2350 ($11,750). Still another necklace of 417 matched
and graduated pearls arranged in five rows was sold for £4800 ($24,000). A splendid pearl drop, of
the finest orient, brought £1650 ($8250), and a pearl rope of 191 oriental pearls, arranged so as to
form three single-row necklaces, realized the sum of £3700 ($18,500), three fine black pearls,
mounted as studs, were sold for £1000 ($5000). The most important necklace was reserved for the
end of the sale; this was composed of forty-seven large oriental pearls, and was purchased for the
sum of £10,000 ($50,000).
At the sale of the Massey-Mainwaring collection at Christie’s on March 18, 1907, a five-row pearl
necklace consisting of 471 graduated pearls, with a bouton pearl in the center, was sold for £4600
($23,000).
Another collection, sold at Christie’s, April 15, 1907, was the property of the late Mrs. Lewis-Hill,
and the proceeds of the first day’s sale reached the heretofore unapproached total of £94,805
($474,025), thus exceeding by $26,395 the amount obtained in one day by the sale of Lady Dudley’s
jewels. Among the valuable pearls in this collection, we may mention a pair of large bouton pearl
earrings, with small diamond tops, which brought £1180 ($5900). The enthusiasm and interest of the
assembly were aroused by a necklace of forty-five large, graduated pearls of fine orient, with a
bouton pearl and brilliant cluster snap; after spirited bidding this was bought for £6100 ($30,500).
The greatest event of the day, however, was the appearance of a splendid rope of 229 pearls of very
good form, well-matched and graduated. The opening bid was £10,000 ($50,000) and after a warm
contest the pearls were finally acquired for the sum of £16,700 ($83,500). A necklace consisting of
fifteen graduated drops, each formed of one bouton pearl, one brilliant, and one pear-shaped pearl
drop, depending from a narrow band of small diamonds, drew forth a bid of £5000 ($25,000) and was
finally awarded for the sum of £12,200 ($61,000). A pearl rope of 183 graduated and well-matched
pearls realized £7200 ($36,000), and a fine pair of pearls set as earrings brought £3400 ($17,000).
The crowded auction room, the keen competition among the bidders, and the amount obtained for
these jewels are good indications of the firmness of the market at the present time.

Page 598

Copyright, 1907, by
Theo. C. Marceau,
N. Y.

MRS. GEORGE J. GOULD

At the sale of the jewels of Lady Henry Gordon-Lennox, held at Christie’s on May 12, 1907, a
splendid necklace was offered. It comprised 287 graduated pearls of the finest orient, disposed in five
rows, with a large circular pearl. This magnificent ornament was sold for £25,500 ($127,500).
On July 11, 1907, a splendid necklace of forty-nine graduated pearls, of fine luster and carefully
matched, was sold at auction by Debenham and Storr of London, for the sum of £5600 ($28,000). At
the same sale a single-row necklace of forty-five pearls brought £5300 ($26,500), and a rope of
oriental pearls realized £4500 ($22,500).
At the auction sale of the collection of the late Bishop Bubics of Hungary, among other objects, a
very handsome saber pouch was offered, of the style worn by the Hungarian hussars. It was of green
silk and richly embroidered with hundreds of pearls of varying sizes. After a spirited competition this
pouch was sold to Prince Esterhazy for 13,500 crowns ($2700). Some time after the sale a letter from
the late bishop was found, containing the statement that he had borrowed the ornament from the
jewel-room of the Princess Esterhazy. Naturally, Prince Esterhazy was not called upon to pay the
amount of his bid. It is a gratification to know that at least one of the remarkable Magyar jeweled
ornaments has escaped the cupidity of enterprising jewelers who have broken up so many of these
ornaments for the gems which they contained.

Page 599

A BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE PRINCIPAL GREAT PEARLS OF HISTORY

Weight
Charles the Bold’s Pearls. Three, each about 60 grains
Gomara Pearl, 31 carats 124 grains
Oviedo Pearl, 26 carats
(probably the Morales or Pizarro Pearl) 104 grains
La Peregrina 134 grains
Charles II’s Pearl, (nearly equal to La Peregrina)
Morales and Pizarro Pearl, 26 carats 104 grains
Rudolph II’s Pearl, 30 carats 120 grains
Tavernier’s Pearls:
Shah Sofi’s Pearl (estimated) 500 grains
Imam of Muscat’s Pearl, 121⁄16 carats 48¼ grains
Shaista Khan Pearl, 55 carats 220 grains
Great Mogul’s Pearls:
Peacock Throne Pearl 200 grains
Two pear-shaped, one about 70 ratis 186.2 grains
Olive-shaped pearl (estimated) 125 grains
One button-shaped, 55–60 ratis 146.3–159.6 grains
One round pearl, 56 ratis (gift of the Shah Abbas II) 148.9 grains
Round pearl (estimated)[526] 110 grains
Three yellowish pearls, 25–28 ratis 66.5–74.5 grains
One perfectly round pearl, 35½ ratis 94½ grains
Two perfectly shaped and equal, each 25¼ ratis 67.1 grains
La Reine des Perles 109¼ grains
Pearls of Maria Theresa’s Necklace (three) 92–100 grains
La Régente (now owned by Princess Yousoupoff) 337 grains
La Pellegrina 111½ grains
The Ynaffit, pear-shaped 143⅛ grains
Hope Pearl, drop-shaped baroque 1800 grains
Also in the Hope Collection:
Conical pearl 151 grains
Bouton pearl 124 grains
Oval pearl 94 grains
Roughly spherical pearl 89 grains
Acorn-shaped pearl 85 grains
Oval conch pearl 82¼ grains
Button-shaped conch pearl 77½ grains

Page 600

Drop-shaped pearl 76½ grains
Pear-shaped Scotch pearl 34¾ grains
Van Buren Pearls:
Two, each about 30 grains
Also necklace 148 pearls 700 grains
Tiffany Queen Pearl, American 93 grains
Black bouton earring-pearl 88 grains
White bouton earring-pearl 93 grains
Bapst Pearls, two 113¼ and 113¾ grains
Round pearl of Paris Exposition of 1889 70 grains
Mme. Nordica’s Pearl (abalone) 175 grains
Great Bahama Conch Pearl 138¼ grains
The Queen Conch Pearl 90 grains
W. H. Moore’s Pearl (Arkansas pearl, brown) 122½ grains
Shark’s Bay Pearl, golden yellow 30½ grains
Rudolph II Crown Pearl, 26 carats 104 grains
Carlotta’s Pearl, pear-shaped 84 grains
Marquis of Anglesey’s Pearl, drop-shaped 105½ grains
Black pear-shaped pearl (Lower California) 49 grains

Page 601

XVII

THE ABORIGINAL USE OF PEARLS, AND
THEIR DISCOVERY IN MOUNDS AND
GRAVES

Page 602

XVII
THE ABORIGINAL USE OF PEARLS, AND THEIR
DISCOVERY IN MOUNDS AND GRAVES

T
he use of pearls by the aborigines of the territory now comprised
in the United States is proven by their appearance in the mounds
and certain graves of pre-Columbian date. This is of great interest
in view of the unique system of burial and the great variety of
objects buried with the pearls. It is evident from the quantities discovered in
some of the mounds that a very great number of pearls, many of large size,
must have been owned by these aborigines, and they were evidently quite
expert in the art of drilling them. Pearls must have been freely used for
ornamental purposes, and it is clear that many rivers in this region must
have produced them in great numbers, when we consider that in all
probability the mussels were taken only as they were required for food or
for bait in fishing, and had probably reached their full growth.
It is not unlikely that pearls were used on this continent for a long period,
and they may have been in use centuries before any employment was made
of them in Europe. In the age of the mound-builders there were as many
pearls in the possession of a single tribe of Indians as existed in any
European court. We have no means of ascertaining the precise date of any
of these burials, and there are no historical records relating to this region,
such as were kept in Mexico as well as in Europe and Asia. No trace has
been found of the employment of pearls, either for decoration or ornament,
by the aborigines of Europe or Asia; either they did not use them or else the
pearls have entirely passed away in the course of twenty or more centuries.
We do know, however, that neither pearls nor Unio shells were used by any
of the lake-dwellers of Switzerland or the adjacent countries.

Page 603

Many eminent archæologists have investigated the finding and history of
the pearls of the mound-builders of Ohio and Alabama, especially Squier
and Davis, F. W. Putnam, Warren K. Moorehead, C. C. Jones, W. C. Mills,
and Clarence B. Moore. The discoveries made up to 1890 were fully treated
by one of the writers in several pamphlets (one of them, “Gems and
Precious Stones of North America”).
It is not unlikely that the Indians of the Atlantic coast may have known of
pearls from the common clam as well as from the edible oyster. The former
may have often contained pearls weighing from fifty to one hundred grains
each, as at that period the mollusks were permitted to attain their full
growth, and perhaps were not eaten except when they were as small as
little-neck clams; the larger ones were sought for the purple spot which held
the muscle, and was used for wampum. We have no record of the finding of
pearls in any graves north of Virginia, as the many graves opened in the past
century have failed to reveal them, nor has the use of pearls been mentioned
by any of the early writers. They may have been worn, but if so they have
passed away or may have been mistaken for ashes if they had decrepitated.
The first English settlers found the Indians of the tidewater region of
what now constitutes the Middle States using pearls quite freely and
esteeming them among their favorite treasures and ornaments. Captain John
Smith, and all the early chroniclers of the Virginia colony, have given many
accounts of this aboriginal use of pearls.
In view of the general interest awakened by the tercentenary of the
founding of Jamestown, and the exposition in commemoration thereof, the
“American Anthropologist” devoted its first number for 1907 principally to
topics relating to the Virginia Indians.[527] Among these articles is one of
much interest by Mr. Charles C. Willoughby, of the Peabody Museum at
Cambridge, Massachusetts, dealing with the tribes occupying tidewater
Virginia at the time of the first colonization, their habits and customs, their
distribution, and their subsequent history of diminution and almost of
extinction. These were a branch of the Algonquian stock, and extended as
far south as the Neuse River in North Carolina. To the south and west they
were hemmed in by tribes of Iroquoian and Siouan race, and on the north
they were separated from other hostile Indians by the Potomac River and
Chesapeake Bay. The powerful confederacy under Powhatan comprised
some thirty tribes or “provinces,” covering most of the tidewater region of

Page 604

Virginia proper. To the greater chiefs, John Smith states that tribute was
paid, consisting of “skinnes, beads, copper, pearle, deere, turkies, wild
beasts and corne.”[528] Many other references in this article confirm and
illustrate this general statement, especially regarding pearls, both as to their
use by the living and their deposit with the remains of the dead.
In the account given of the native clothing, the outer mantles are
described, made usually of deerskin with the hair removed, and bordered
with a fringe. These were often “couloured with some pretty work, ...
beasts, fowle, tortayses, or such like imagery,”[529] or adorned with shells,
white beads, copper ornaments, pearls, or the teeth of animals.[530] Strachey
describes a wonderful cloak made of feather-work, belonging to an Indian
princess, the wife of a deposed chief, Pipisco; with it she wore “pendants of
great but imperfect couloured and worse drilled pearles, which she put into
her eares,” besides a long necklace made of copper links.[531]
With regard to such ornaments, Mr. Willoughby says (p. 71) that “the
ears of both sexes were pierced with great holes, the women commonly
having three in each ear, in which were hung strings of bones, shell, and
copper beads, copper pendants, and other ornaments. Captain Amidas met
the wife of a chief who wore in her ears strings of pearl beads as large as
‘great pease’ which hung down to her middle.[532] The husband of this
woman wore five or six copper pendants in each ear. It was a common
custom for the men to wear a claw of a hawk, eagle, turkey, or bear, or even
a live snake as an ear ornament.”
“Bracelets and neck ornaments of various kinds of beads were common.
Beads of copper seem to have been most highly valued in the early colonial
period. These were made of ‘shreeds of copper, beaten thinne and bright,
and wound up hollowe,’ and were sometimes strung alternately with pearls
which were occasionally stained to render them more attractive.[533] Beads
of polished bone or shell were strung into necklaces either alone or with
perforated pearls or copper beads. Some of these chains were long enough
to pass several times around the neck. Necklaces of such construction as to
be easily identified were worn by messengers as a proof of good faith.
Powhatan gave Sir Thomas Dale a pearl necklace, and requested that any
messenger sent by Dale to him should wear it as a guaranty that the
message was authentic.”[534]

Page 605

“Pearls of various shapes and sizes were comparatively common, but
symmetrical pearls of uniform size were more rare. Strachey writes of
having seen ‘manie chaynes and braceletts (of pearls) worne by the people,
and wee have found plentie of them in the sepulchers of their kings, though
discoloured by burning the oysters in the fier, and deformed by grosse
boring.’ One of Hariot’s companions obtained from the Indians about five
thousand pearls, from which a sufficient number of good quality and of
uniform size were obtained to make a ‘fayre chaine, which for their
likenesse and uniformitie in roundnesse, orientness and pidenesse of many
excellent colours, with equalitie in greatnesse, were verie fayre and
rare.’[535]
“Those who have examined the thousands of pearls from the Ohio
mounds, to be mentioned later, can readily understand these conditions. The
pearl beads from the mounds vary in diameter from about an eighth of an
inch to nearly an inch, the great majority being small and irregular, although
there are many among them of good form and value. It is probable that most
of the Virginia pearls were obtained from the fresh-water mussel (Unio)”;
not unlikely from the common marine clam (Venus mercenaria), or the
common oyster (Ostrea virginica).
As regards the burial of pearls with the dead and their use in religious
rites, curious and quite full accounts are given by Strachey, Smith, Hariot,
and Beverley.[536] There was a “temple,” also occupied as a residence by one
or more priests, in the territory of every chief. This building was usually
some eighteen or twenty feet wide, and varied in length from thirty to one
hundred feet, with an entrance at the eastern end, and the western portion
partitioned off with mats to form a sort of sanctuary or “chancel.” Within
this were kept the dried bodies of deceased chiefs, and an image of the god,
called Okee, made in the shape of a man, “all black, dressed with chaynes
of perle.” Full descriptions of these idols and their manufacture are given by
Hariot and Beverley, also of the process of preserving the remains of the
chiefs.[537] After the body had been disemboweled, the skin was laid back
and the flesh was cut away from the bones. When this operation was
completed, the skeleton, held together by its ligaments, was again inclosed
in the skin, and stuffed with white sand, or with “pearle, copper, beads, and
such trash sowed in a skynne.”[538] It was then dressed in fine skins and
adorned with all sorts of valuables, including strings of pearls and beads.

Page 606

The same kinds of treasures were also deposited in a basket at the feet of
the mummy.
Captain Smith describes the temple of Powhatan, at Uttamussack, which
was in charge of seven priests, and was held in great awe by “the salvages.”
At a place called Orapaks, was also his treasure-house, fifty or sixty yards
long, frequented only by priests, where he kept a great amount of skins,
beads, pearls, and copper, stored up against the time of his death and burial.
A vivid account is given of the four grotesque images that stood guard at
the corners of this building, all made “evill favouredly according to their
best workmanship.”[539]
The use of pearls as ornaments, and their deposit with the remains of
chiefs and persons of distinction, have already been described as familiar
among the Indian tribes of tidewater Virginia, in the notes above cited from
early explorers and colonists. It is a curious circumstance, however, that this
habit does not appear to have extended in that part of the country much
beyond the dominions of Powhatan, as no pearls have been noted in the
Indian graves in Maryland. This statement, in reply to a letter of special
inquiry, is made by Dr. P. R. Uhler, of the Peabody Institute of Baltimore,
who has been making very careful studies of all aboriginal remains in that
region, for the Maryland Academy of Sciences.
It would seem from this and other evidence, that the use and appreciation
of pearls must have been in some way a tribal matter, familiar to some and
not to others, of the Indian peoples. In the Mississippi Valley, the ancient
population known as the mound-builders, by some regarded as a distinct
and earlier race, and by others as of true Indian stock, although much more
advanced in arts and culture, have left in their mounds most remarkable
quantities of pearls. But here again, the same feature appears, that these
treasures are not found wherever there are mounds, but only in certain
regions. Of these, by far the most celebrated is that of the Scioto and Miami
valleys, in Ohio. Outside of these, no large amounts have been found, and
only at a few localities are they met with at all.
The valleys of the Miami and Scioto rivers and their tributaries contain
many remarkable mounds and “earthworks,” which have attracted much
attention, and have been more or less explored at different times, with
increasing care and thoroughness as archæological science has advanced. It
may be well to give a brief, general account of these investigations and

Page 607

some leading features of the mounds as a whole, before going into
particulars as to the occurrence of pearls.
The first important and scientific study of these remarkable structures
was that conducted in the early forties by Dr. Edwin H. Davis and Mr. E.
George Squier, and published in their celebrated and standard work entitled
“Ancient Monuments of the Mississippi Valley,” issued by the Smithsonian
Institution in 1848. This book and the “Correspondence” in regard to the
mounds by the same writers, published in 1847, were the first works issued
by the Smithsonian Institution.
According to Squier and Davis,[540] two quarts of pearls were originally
deposited in one of these mounds. The writers consider that the pearls were
probably derived from the fisheries in the southern waters, and they regard
their presence in the Ohio mounds as a proof of “an extensive
communication with southern and tropical regions and a migration from
that direction.”
A number of pearls or pearl beads from the Ohio mounds and which
formerly belonged to the Squier and Davis collection, are now in the
Blackmore Museum at Salisbury, England. According to a communication
from Dr. H. P. Blackmore, director of the museum, these pearls, which
originally formed five necklaces, have been much injured by the action of
fire at the time the bodies of those interred in the mounds were burned. Mr.
Blackmore considers that the greater part of the pearl beads are of mother-
of-pearl cut from some large shell, made into a round shape and perforated,
but, after very careful examination, he is of the opinion that about ten may
be classed as natural pearls. Their present color is a dull, leaden gray, rather
lighter than the “black pearl” of commerce. The size of these pearls or
beads varies from four millimeters to twenty millimeters in diameter. One
of the necklaces consists of thirty-three beads well graduated, but of a dead
white color from the action of the earth.
A quarter of a century later, when the Centennial Exposition was in
preparation, the Smithsonian Institution undertook the formation of a public
exhibit illustrating American archæology, and engaged Prof. F. W. Putnam,
of Cambridge, Massachusetts, to open and examine some of the most
remarkable of the mounds described by Squier and Davis. These
explorations were continued for some years, partly for the government and
partly for the Peabody Museum of Archæology at Cambridge, and their

Page 608

results were exhibited at the Columbian Exposition in 1893. The mounds
explored were chiefly in the valley of the Little Miami, and particularly
those known as the Turner group.
A very important series of explorations was also carried on by Mr.
Warren K. Moorehead, covering the years from 1887 to 1893, largely in
preparation for the Columbian Exposition. These investigations were
mainly in the Scioto valley, in the counties of Ross, Franklin, and Pickaway,
Ohio. Among the most important results then obtained were those from the
mounds of the “Porter” and “Hopewell” groups, in Ross County.
Since that time, much valuable work has been done by Mr. Moorehead
and others, and particularly under the auspices of the Ohio State
Archæological and Historical Society. The latest and most complete
investigation was made for this society in 1903, by its curator, Prof.
William C. Mills, in the Harness mound, seven miles north of Chillicothe,
Ohio, near the Scioto River, in Ross County. This locality had been
previously explored in part, by Professor Putnam in 1885, and Mr.
Moorehead in 1896; it was now systematically examined down to the
original surface at every point.
Squier and Davis divided these ancient monuments into four classes: (1)
Altar mounds, which contain what appear to be altars, and are also called
hearths, of stone or hardened clay; (2) Burial mounds, containing human
bones; (3) Temple mounds, with neither altars nor bones, but seeming to
have had some special religious significance; and (4) Anomalous mounds,
including “mounds of observation” and others of mixed or uncertain
character. The burials are found to be of two kinds, simple interment and
cremation; and these are sometimes met with in the same mound.
This classification has been generally followed in describing these
ancient structures, although the whole subject is obscure and difficult, from
our ignorance of the purposes and conditions of their formation. In many of
the mounds of the first two classes especially, not only have pearls been
found, but quantities of interesting and remarkable objects, many of which
have been brought from distant points, and prove clearly the existence of an
extensive intertribal commerce at a remote period. Galena from Illinois and
Wisconsin, mica from North Carolina, obsidian from beyond the Rocky
Mountains, and sea-shells from the Gulf coast, are among these objects, and
particularly native copper from Lake Superior, from which many articles

Page 609

were fashioned by hammering. Pearls are extremely abundant, and were at
first supposed to have been brought from the coast, and may have been the
pearls of the common clam and the common oyster, the pearls being found
in opening the mollusks for food; but the recent development of pearl
hunting in the western rivers, where the fresh-water mussels (Unios) are so
abundant and produce such beautiful pearls, shows that these treasures were
undoubtedly gathered, partly, if not wholly, in the region where the mounds
exist. The enormous numbers found are, indeed, no source of surprise, as
such quantities of pearls have been obtained, for over twenty years past,
from the same regions. The mollusks are still abundant in all the streams of
the Mississippi Valley, except where they have been reduced or
exterminated by the reckless methods of pearl hunting employed where the
“pearl fever” has prevailed.
It is quite possible that the fresh-water Unios were not sought for their
pearls alone, but were also used as food, and perhaps as bait for fishing.
They were evidently gathered in great quantities, as is shown by the old
heaps of shells found along the banks of streams at many points; and
doubtless there are multitudes of such heaps that have never been observed.
They are known as far north as Idaho, as communicated by Dr. Robert N.
Bell, State mineralogist, and they extend still farther north, as noted by Dr.
Harlan I. Smith, in his “Preliminary Notes on the Archæology of the
Yakima Valley.”[541] He says: “Small heaps of fresh-water clam-shells were
examined, but these being only about five feet in diameter and as many
inches in depth, are hardly to be compared to the immense shell-heaps of
the coast.”
These Unio shell-heaps are frequent in the South, and some of the
Spanish chroniclers of De Soto’s expedition in 1540–1541, describe the
gathering and cooking of the mussels, and the finding of occasional pearls
therein. The same writers also give glowing accounts of the pearls
possessed by the natives. Some of these accounts may be exaggerated, but
they cannot be wholly so. It would seem that some of the pearls may have
come from marine shells, and others from those of the rivers and streams;
but there are few pearl-producing shells on our own coasts, and it is not
very likely that there was any trade or intercourse with the West Indian
Islands, where marine pearls occur freely.

Page 610

Albert H. Pickett, in his “History of Alabama,” refers to the accounts of
De Soto’s historian, Garcilasso de la Vega, and holds that the pearls which
he noted were evidently from the Unios of Alabama. “Heaps of mussel
shells,” he says, “are now to be seen on our river banks wherever Indians
used to live. They were much used by the ancient Indians for some purpose,
and old warriors have informed me that their ancestors once used the shells
to temper the clay with which they made their vessels. But as thousands of
the shells lie banked up, some deep in the ground, we may also suppose that
the Indians in De Soto’s time, everywhere in Alabama, obtained pearls from
them. There can be no doubt about the quantity of pearls found in this State
and Georgia in 1540, but they were of a coarser and more valueless kind
than the Spaniards supposed. The Indians used to perforate them and string
them around their necks and arms like beads.”[542]
The use of fragments of these shells in tempering the clay for pottery,
alluded to in the preceding paragraph, is well known. Prof. Daniel S. Martin
describes an old village site in South Carolina, near the Congaree River, a
few miles south of the city of Columbia, where the ground had been
plowed, and along the furrows the soil was gleaming with brilliant pearly
fragments of Unio shells, intermingled with bits of pottery.
Mr. Clarence B. Moore discovered pearls pierced for stringing in several
of the mounds at Moundville, Alabama. He also found a sheet-copper
pendant, elongated oval in outline, with an excised repoussé decoration,
embracing a swastika within a circle, and a triangle. This pendant, which
lay near the skull of burial No. 132, bears a perforated pearl nearly seven
millimeters in diameter and weighing about nine grains; it is fastened to the
pendant by a piece of vegetable fiber that passes through the pearl. With
another burial (No. 162), the skeleton of an adult, was an elliptical gorget of
sheet-copper decorated with a pearl.[543] In a personal communication Mr.
Moore states that all the pearls found by him in the mounds were very much
disintegrated by the lapse of time; he also writes that he has never found
any shells immediately with the pearls, although masses of Unio shells were
often met with in the mounds. He believes the shell-fish had been used for
food.
Unio shell-heaps exist likewise on the shores of the inland lakes of
Florida, and in middle Georgia and Alabama; and several of them on the
banks of the Savannah River, above Augusta, are fully described by Colonel

Page 611

Charles C. Jones.[544] He says: “In these relic-beds no two parts of the same
shell are, as a general rule, found in juxtaposition. The hinge is broken, and
the valves of the shell, after having been artificially torn asunder, seem to
have been carelessly cast aside and allowed to accumulate.”
Thus, in addition to the historical evidence, physical proof is abundant of
the pearl fisheries of the aboriginal tribes of the South. In order to ascertain
the precise varieties of shells from which the southern Indians obtained
their pearls, Colonel Jones invited an expression of opinion from a number
of scientists whose studies rendered them familiar with the conchology of
the United States. Their responses throw considerable light upon this
inquiry, though with some curious variation.
Prof. William S. Jones, of the University of Georgia, says that he has
seen small pearls in many of the Unios found in that State.
Prof. Jeffries Wyman, on the other hand, after a careful and extensive
series of excavations in the shell-heaps of Florida, failed to find a single
pearl. “It is hardly probable,” he remarks, “that the Spaniards could have
been mistaken as to the fact of the ornaments of the Indians being pearls,
but in view of their frequent exaggerations, I am almost compelled to the
belief that there was some mistake; and possibly they may not have
distinguished between the pearls and the shell beads, some of which would
correspond with the size and shape of the pearls mentioned by the
Spaniards.”
Prof. Joseph Jones, whose investigations throw much valuable light upon
the contents of the ancient tumuli of Tennessee, says: “I do not remember
finding a genuine pearl in the many mounds which I have opened in the
valleys of the Tennessee, the Cumberland, the Harpeth, and elsewhere.
Many of the pearls described by the Spaniards were probably little else than
polished beads cut out of large sea-shells and from the thicker portions of
fresh-water mussels, and prepared so as to resemble pearls. I have examined
thousands of these, and they all present a laminated structure, as if carved
out of thick shells and sea conchs.” This point will be referred to again.
Dr. Charles Rau[545] writes: “I learned from Dr. Samuel G. Bristow, who
was a surgeon in the Army of the Cumberland during the Civil War, that
mussels of the Tennessee River were occasionally eaten ‘as a change’ by the
soldiers of that corps, and pronounced no bad article of diet. Shells of the

Page 612

Unio are sometimes found in Indian graves, where they had been deposited
with the dead, to serve as food during the journey to the land of spirits.”
Dr. Brinton saw on the Tennessee River and its tributaries numerous
shell-heaps consisting almost exclusively of the Unio virginianus
(Lamarck). In every instance he found shell-heaps close to the water-
courses, on the rich alluvial bottom-land. He says: “The mollusks had
evidently been opened by placing them on a fire. The Tennessee mussel is
margaritiferous, and there is no doubt but that it was from this species that
the early tribes obtained the hoards of pearls which the historian of De
Soto’s exploration estimated by bushels, and which were so much prized as
ornaments.”[546]
A source has recently been pointed out whence small pearls, and perhaps
some fine specimens, could have been obtained by the Indians of Florida,
and in considerable quantities. In the Unios of some of the fresh-water lakes
of that State, there were found not less than 3000 pearls, most of them
small, but many large enough to be perforated and worn as beads. From one
Unio there were taken eighty-four seed-pearls; from another, fifty; from a
third, twenty, and from several, ten or twelve each. The examinations were
chiefly confined to Lake Griffin and its vicinity. It is said that upon one of
the isles in Lake Okeechobee are the remains of an old pearl fishery, and it
is proposed to open the shells of this lake, which are large, in hopes of
finding pearls of superior size and quality.
The use of the pearl as an ornament by the southern Indians, and the
quantities of shells opened by them in various localities, make it seem
strange that it is not more frequently met with in the relic-beds and
sepulchral tumuli of that region; but, after exploring many shell- and earth-
mounds, Colonel Charles C. Jones failed, except in a few instances, to find
pearls.[547] A few were obtained in an extensive relic-bed on the Savannah
River, above Augusta, the largest being four tenths of an inch in diameter,
but all of them blackened by fire. Many of the smaller mounds on the coast
of Georgia do not contain pearls, because at the period of their construction
the custom of burning the dead appears to have prevailed very generally;
hence, it may be that the pearls were either immediately consumed or so
seriously injured as to crumble out of sight.
This absence of pearls tends somewhat to confirm the opinion that beads
made from the thicker portions of shells that were carved, perforated, and

Page 613

brilliant with nacre, were regarded by the imaginative Spaniards as pearls.
More minute investigation, however, will doubtless reveal the existence of
pearls in localities where the pearl-bearing shells were collected. Perforated
pearls have been found in an ancient burying-ground located near the bank
of the Ogeechee River, in Bryan County, Georgia; and many years ago,
after a heavy freshet on the Oconee River, which laid bare many Indian
graves in the neighborhood of the large mounds on Poullain’s plantation,
fully a hundred pearls of considerable size were gathered.
It seems quite clear that many of the pearls reported by the early Spanish
voyagers were really such, although it is well known also that shell beads
have been found in mounds in connection with pearls; but the numbers
found in Ohio, by Professor Putnam, Mr. Moorehead, and others, leave no
room for doubt in this matter. That the Indians of the South also had these
pearls, both drilled and undrilled, is beyond question.
The same fact comes to view, however, in these various accounts, that
has been alluded to already, viz., that the use of pearls among the aborigines
appears to have been local, and probably tribal. All the fresh waters of
North America contain Unios, especially in the Mississippi basin and in the
South, and all the Unios are more or less pearl-bearing; but it is only at
certain points that pearls are found deposited in ancient graves, sometimes,
however, in extraordinary quantities.
Father Louis Hennepin relates that the Indians along the Mississippi wore
bracelets and earrings of fine pearls, which they spoilt, having nothing to
bore them with but fire. He adds: “They gave us to understand that they
received them in exchange for their calumets from nations inhabiting the
coast of the great lake to the southward, which I take to be the Gulph of
Florida.”[548]
The statement here made, that the Indians perforated their pearls only
“with fire,” evidently refers to the use of a heated copper wire, or point, as
mentioned by Pickett and others of the early explorers. This point is of
importance, as apparently indicating a marked difference between the
Indians met with by the first European visitors, and the mound-building
people of an earlier time, among whom the perforation was made with
small stone drills. On this point, a recent letter from Prof. Wm. C. Mills,
who has conducted the very full exploration of the Harness mound in Ohio,
is of interest. He describes the small and carefully-wrought flint drills,

Page 614

which he found, and believes to have been made and used for this purpose.
In size and form they answer all requirements; they are delicate little
implements, somewhat T-shaped or gimlet-shaped, an inch and a quarter
long; the narrow boring part is about an inch in length and tapers from one
eighth of an inch to quite a fine point; the wider upper end is abruptly
expanded into the transverse handle, which is about a quarter of an inch
thick, i.e., lengthwise of the instrument, and half an inch in span, i.e.,
across, so as to give a good hold for the fingers to rotate the drill, just as in
an ordinary gimlet.
Passing now to the actual discoveries of pearls in the mounds of the
Mississippi Valley, these will be reviewed in the order of the successive
explorations in which they were made known. As already stated, the only
region where any large amounts have been encountered, is that of the Scioto
and Miami valleys in Ohio. Even here, pearls are found only at certain
points, and though the numbers are great, the graves which contain them are
few. They were apparently buried only with the remains of individuals of
especial distinction, probably either chiefs or eminent medicine men. The
accounts of recent explorations in these mounds bring to mind very forcibly
the statement before cited from Captain John Smith, as to Powhatan’s
treasure-house, where all his most valued articles, including pearls, were
collected and kept, in preparation for his death and burial. Pearls appear
also to have been used only by the more cultured tribes, and were kept in
the larger and more prosperous communities exclusively. They are confined
to the great “mound groups,” and are not found in isolated mounds. The
tumuli of northern Ohio, the hill mounds, and the village sites along the
smaller streams, have yielded practically none.
According to the manner of burial, the pearls vary greatly in their present
condition. Where they have been placed with cremated bodies, they are, of
course, much damaged, being blackened and largely decomposed.
Otherwise, although injured in color and luster, the mere fact of burial in the
ground has not entirely ruined them. They are generally perforated, so as to
be strung or attached to garments, and traces of both these methods of use
are sometimes clearly shown.
The term “pearl beads,” often employed by writers, is uncertain in
meaning; as it may refer either to actual pearls, bored so as to be strung, or
to imitations thereof made from pearly shell. With regard to this point,

Page 615

although such quantities have been obtained, there seems to have been very
little close examination as to their structure, which would at once indicate
the facts, according as the minute layers of the pearly material are
concentric or not. The only distinct testimony is that we have cited above
from Prof. Joseph Jones,[549] who states that he has examined large numbers,
and found them to be apparently cut from shells. He makes the suggestion
that they may have been carved from the thicker portions of the fresh-water
Unios. This is not only probable, but would go far to solve the mystery of
the enormous numbers found, as compared with anything known of the
yield of genuine pearls by these mollusks, even with all the pearl hunting of
recent years. An interesting fact bearing directly on this question is the
discovery in the Taylor mound, at Oregonia, Warren County, Ohio, of
several Unio shells in which had been made a circular hole, two thirds of an
inch in diameter, either for some ornamental use of the shell or to extract
pieces to be shaped into beads. These may have been made in either of two
ways. Firstly, by breaking pieces of the shell from one of the valves, as a
lapidary “roughs out” a piece of gem material before he begins to grind it
into shape; or, secondly, by cutting out a circular disk of shell by means of a
hollow copper drill or a hollow reed, just as they perforated hard pieces of
quartz or granite for pipes, or as they trephined circular disks from the
skulls. Decorated disks of Unio shell were also found in the same mound. If
the ancient people made beads in this manner, there is little difficulty in
accounting for the quantities described, especially in connection with the
evident gathering of Unios on a large scale, as shown by the widely
distributed shell-heaps already described. They certainly did make beads
from various marine shells, and these are found with the pearl beads in
many of the mounds, as particularly noted by Professor Jones, cited above,
and by others.
In the recent exploration of the Harness mound, by Professor Mills, a
very curious discovery was made of imitation pearls of a kind never before
met with; these were made of clay, modeled apparently after the larger
natural pearls associated with them, and after being baked hard, had been
“covered with a flexible mica,” so as to resemble pearls.[550] The mica was a
silvery mica that may have been burned and would pulverize into a gray
powder with a pearly luster, as almost all micas are too resilient to be
attached in any other way.

Page 616

Taking up now the history of pearl discovery in the mounds, the first
definite record goes back to about 1844, when perforated pearls were found
by Dr. Edwin H. Davis[551] on the hearths of five distinct groups of mounds
in Ohio, and sometimes in such abundance that they could be gathered by
the hundred. They were generally of irregular form, mostly pear-shaped,
though perfectly round ones were also found among them. The smaller
specimens measured about one fourth of an inch in diameter, but the largest
had a diameter of three quarters of an inch.
The next great discovery of these Unio pearls was in the Porter group of
mounds, in the Little Miami Valley, explored by Prof. Frederick W. Putnam,
and Dr. Charles L. Metz, who procured over 60,000 pearls, nearly two
bushels, drilled and undrilled, undoubtedly of Unio origin; all of them,
however, decayed or much altered, and of no commercial value. In 1884
these scientists examined the Marriott mound, where they found nearly one
hundred Unio shells, and among other objects of special interest six canine
teeth of bears, that were perforated by a lateral hole near the edge at the
point of greatest curvature of the root, so that by passing a cord through
this, the tooth could be fastened to any object or worn as an ornament. Two
of these teeth had a hole bored through near the end of the root on the side
opposite the lateral perforation, and the hole countersunk in order to receive
a large spherical pearl, about three eighths of an inch in diameter. When the
teeth were found, the pearls were in place, although chalky from decay.
Upward of 250 pearl beads were found here, concerning which they say:
“The pearl beads found in the several positions mentioned are natural
pearls, probably obtained from the several species of Unios in the Ohio
rivers. In size they vary from one tenth of an inch to over half an inch in
diameter, and many are spherical. They are neatly drilled, and the larger
from opposite sides. These pearls are now chalky, and crumble on handling,
but when fresh they would have formed brilliant necklaces and
pendants.”[552]

Page 617

Necklace of fresh-water
pearls and cut shell beads,
from Mound No. 25

Bear-tooth inlaid with fresh-
water pearl from the neck of
skeleton No. 209, Mound 23

Page 618

Perforation in charred, cut fresh-water pearl; weight, 5569
grams

Perforated fresh-water pearl;
weight, 22,955 grams

FRESH-WATER PEARLS FROM HOPEWELL GROUP OF MOUNDS,
ROSS COUNTY, OHIO
It is easy to see, even at a glance, that most of those in this great deposit
of 60,000 are true pearls. Many are very irregular in form, and quite a
number are the elongated, somewhat feather-shaped, “hinge pearls,” that are
found in the region of the hinge teeth of Unios. A large and interesting
exhibit of these is shown in the Field Museum of Natural History, Chicago.
But thousands of spherical pearls were also obtained, from the “altars” or
“hearths” of mounds belonging to the first division of Squier and Davis’s
classification, above noted. From the Turner group, in Clermont County, in

Page 619

the Little Miami Valley, Professor Putnam obtained for the Peabody
Museum as much as half a bushel of pearls of this character. As these had
been exposed to fire, nearly all were blackened, some cracked, and all
greatly impaired.[553]
The next great series of explorations were those conducted by Mr. W. K.
Moorehead in the Scioto Valley, in the counties of Ross, Franklin and
Pickaway, Ohio. He opened and examined a number of mounds, and found
pearls or pearl beads in ten or twelve of them, but the larger deposits were
confined to certain limited districts, which seem to have been occupied by
tribes more advanced in culture and in traffic than the rest. In these, the
pearls and also objects of other kinds brought from a distance, are
principally found. The scattered mounds, not associated with any village or
community sites, have few of these valuable objects.
But even where they are found freely, pearls were apparently used or
possessed by only a few individuals. Mr. Moorehead investigated in all 117
burial mounds, containing about 1400 skeletons. Pearls were met with in
only seven of these mounds, and in connection with but twenty-two
skeletons. These, however, yielded a total of 2600 pearls, apparently from
Unios, the numbers found with single skeletons varying from 18 to 602, an
average of 118. It thus appears that in Mr. Moorehead’s researches, pearls
were found in about one mound out of seventeen, and in these, with about
one skeleton out of eight.
From “altar mounds,” pearls have been in some cases taken in vast
numbers. Professor Putnam’s discoveries are mentioned above; and Mr.
Moorehead obtained tens of thousands from two altars or hearths in the
Hopewell group, which will be described hereafter.
When found in the burial mounds with skeletons, pearls are generally
seen to have been placed at the wrists or ankles, or about the neck, or in the
mouth. Sometimes they are found on copper plates, and occasionally they
show evidence of having been sewn or attached to a garment. Particulars on
these points will be given further on. Mr. Moorehead has also found bears’
teeth, set with pearls, as Putnam and Metz did in the Marriott mound, lying
with or near skeletons.
In the case of the altar mounds, there seems to have been a different
procedure, not a burial, but a great funeral sacrifice in honor of some very
distinguished person, in which treasures of every kind, including great

Page 620

stores of pearls, were consumed, or meant to be. Of this, Mr. Moorehead
says, in a letter to the author: “In the case of all altar offerings, a fire had
been kindled ... and all these things were heaped upon it. They were utterly
ruined, save a few; ... those at the top were not so much affected as those at
the bottom.”
Mr. Moorehead’s investigations already mentioned were in the years
1888 to 1891 inclusive; he next took up especially the remarkable Hopewell
groups of mounds, in 1891–1892, and explored these extensively for the
archæological exhibit at the World’s Columbian Exposition of 1893, at
Chicago.[554] This was his most important and elaborate investigation, and
will be described in some detail. In 1896, he made a partial exploration of
the Harness mound near Chillicothe, which has been fully completed more
recently by Prof. William C. Mills, and will also be described further on.
The investigations made in the Hopewell group of mounds were recorded
by Mr. Moorehead in a series of articles in the “Antiquarian.”[555] He gives a
general account of the remarkable region of ancient remains in Ross
County, Ohio. The State archæological map shows the “mound belt,” as a
strip of country some fifteen miles wide and one hundred miles long,
extending through the Scioto Valley, from about Columbus to Portsmouth.
The ancient works noted on this map, though not all that exist there, yet
number over 900 mounds, 24 village sites, 36 circles of earth and stone, 87
other inclosures and works of similar character, and 31 sites of gravel or
kame burials. Five groups of mounds in particular exist in Ross County, all
of them showing a “high culture” state. “All of the lower Scioto Valley,”
says Mr. Moorehead, “was occupied by a mound-building tribe ranking
higher in intelligence and numerically stronger than that of any other
section of the whole Ohio region.” Among the many remarkable ancient
works in that part of the country, the five groups in Ross County are the
most important, and among these, the Hopewell group is preëminent. The
first published notice of them, which appeared in 1820, was by Mr. Caleb
Atwater.[556] Squier and Davis examined and described them in the years
1844–1846, and obtained large and notable collections from them which are
now in England, in the Blackmore Museum at Salisbury, as not enough
interest in such matters then existed in America to induce the purchase and
retention of these valuable treasures. From that time until 1891, when Mr.
Moorehead began his explorations there, no one had paid much attention to
these mounds, all published accounts being derived from those of Squier

Page 621

and Davis. They described them under the name of Clark’s works, from the
owner of the farm within which they lie; but the property has since passed
into the possession of Mr. M. C. Hopewell. From this fact, yet more from
his kind and intelligent interest in the work of exploration, his name has
been given to the group.
The Hopewell works are situated on the north fork of Paint Creek, about
one third of a mile from the stream. The intervening space is low bottom-
land, and the works stand upon a terrace about twenty feet high, from which
again there is a rather steep rise of thirty or forty feet more, to the general
level of the country. They consist of a nearly quadrangular inclosure, about
half a mile in length (strictly 2800 feet), and half as much in width,
occupying the entire breadth of the terrace. At its eastern end, this large
inclosure opens into a second and smaller one, an exact square of 850 feet.
Within the main inclosure are one or more village sites, a number of
separate mounds, and especially a group of several connected elevations,
together known as the Effigy mound, these being much the highest and
most conspicuous, and themselves surrounded by a semicircular inclosure.
The whole suggests a defensive work, or “walled town”; but the wall,
although strongly and carefully built, partly of stones and partly of hard
clay, is so low—only from four to six feet in height—that it could not have
been a very formidable obstacle to a vigorous assault; and, moreover, the
whole is overlooked and “commanded” from the bluff above it. The
mounds, as Squier and Davis examined them, were pronounced to be
mainly of the sacrificial or “altar” type. Since their very full and accurate
account was published, time and the hand of man have reduced and almost
obliterated portions of the wall and some of the smaller mounds, while the
creek has slightly shifted its course. When they wrote their description, it
was a little nearer than it is now; and they then expressed the belief that it
had formerly washed the base of the terrace where the works are located.
Mr. Moorehead’s exploring party, aided by Dr. H. T. Cresson, began
operations at this notable group of mounds in August, 1891, and continued
them through about seven months, without interruption, much of the time in
severe winter weather. The work was carried on under authority of the
Anthropological Department of the Columbian Exposition of 1893, at
Chicago. All the most interesting and important of the very extensive body
of relics obtained was displayed there; and the whole remains as a
permanent exhibit in the Field (Columbian) Museum of Natural History.

Page 622

The Hopewell group comprises in all some twenty larger and smaller
mounds within the general inclosure, besides a few unimportant ones
outside of it, and the main connected group in the special inclosure near the
center. These latter form together what is known as the Effigy mound, a
name based upon its general resemblance to a reclining human figure; but it
is not constructed on a human or animal design, as are the effigy mounds
properly so called. After working for a time upon some of the others, and
finding much interesting material, Mr. Moorehead set his men to work upon
the Effigy mound, and spent most of his time and effort upon that
remarkable structure, of which he made a very thorough and systematic
exploration.
The Effigy mound is about 500 feet long and 220 feet wide, and rises 23
feet above the general surface at its highest point. It proves to belong to the
fourth class of Squier and Davis, those of mixed character, with both altars
and burials, as it contained three large altars and as many as 175 skeletons,
nearly all of adults.
Reviewing now the entire exploration of the Hopewell group, the first
mound opened, known as No. 17, was of considerable size, nearly ninety
feet in diameter, and was notable for a layer of mica—some 3000 sheets—
that extended almost entirely through it. It contained a rude altar, with ashes
and bones, some copper implements, bone needles, sharks’ teeth, and nearly
200 pounds of bright galena. The next examined, No. 18, contained several
decayed skeletons, and a good example of an “altar,” together with
ornaments cut from human skulls. The next, No. 19, had an altar of earth,
partially hardened by heat, which was taken out entire and boxed. It was
roughly cubical, about three feet each way. In the “bowl,” or concavity, on
the top of it, were various minor implements, with some galena and mica,
etc. The next attacked was a large mound, No. 2, which had been partly
opened by Squier and Davis, nearly fifty years before. It is remarkable for
its immense store of roughly chipped flint disks, over 8000 in number, of
which 600 were taken out by Squier and Davis, and most of the remainder
by Mr. Moorehead. It would seem to have been a place of storage for partly
worked material of this kind, to preserve it from the hardening effect of
long exposure to the air.
Several other mounds yielded little of importance, save that from the soil
on the site of No. 1, which had been obliterated, were taken a number of

Page 623

fragments of bone, curiously ornamented with finely carved patterns. Two
others, Nos. 4 and 5, had peculiarly constructed altars, of which an
extended account is given.
The first discovery of pearls by Squier and Davis was made in their
mound No. 9, now obliterated by a railroad. With the pearls, they report as
found on the top of a small altar, broken instruments of obsidian, cut
patterns of mica, vestiges of cloth, etc.
Mr. Moorehead’s first discovery of pearls was in a small but interesting
mound, No. 20, about forty feet in diameter. It had been reduced by plowing
to only some two feet in height; and its contents would ere long have been
broken into and scattered by the same process. This was strictly a burial
mound, and soon yielded five skeletons, one of them being that of a child,
nine or ten years of age. With these bones were numerous objects: two large
shells made into cups for drinking, several copper articles and ornaments,
among them a broad copper bracelet encircling the right wrist, and several
hundred pearl and shell beads and small shells. The same mound yielded
later some other children’s remains, but with no important objects. A finely
polished pipe and two bear’s teeth coated with copper were also found.
Mr. Moorehead points out the evidences of a long occupation of this site
by a cultured tribe, who had commerce with the South and West more than
with the North or East.
Work was then begun, in the latter part of September, on a large and
important mound known as the Oblong (No. 23), 155 feet long by 100 feet
wide, with an elevation at present of 14 feet, and originally of perhaps 20
feet. This mound yielded thirty-nine skeletons, lying at depths varying from
eight and three fourths to eleven feet below the present surface, nearly on
the base-line of the mound. Some of these were surrounded by boulders,
others were much charred, and a good deal of variety exists in their
condition, all of which Mr. Moorehead describes particularly. All manner of
relics and objects were obtained, including pearl beads and a splendid
copper ax of seventeen pounds’ weight, of course entirely too large for any
practical use, and hence plainly a ceremonial object or badge of some high
distinction. Among the most remarkable of the many interesting objects
discovered here were the large canine teeth of bears,[557] which had not only
been drilled through near the base of the root for suspension, like many
others, but had also been partly drilled at the middle of one side, and a large

Page 624

pearl inserted into the cavity. These singular ornaments were found at the
neck of a skeleton, and had evidently been worn as pendants. It will be
remembered that almost identical specimens were found by Professor
Putnam in the Marriott mound in the Miami Valley.[558] The one here figured
is now in the Field Museum of Natural History, Chicago, with most of the
other Hopewell material.
Another somewhat similar example of the taste and art of the same
people, also preserved in the Field Museum, came from the mound known
as No. 25. This consisted of a large figure of a bird, in hammered copper,
fifteen and seven eighths inches long, with a pearl inserted to form the eye.
The head is quite expressive, and the tail-feathers well represented,
although the wings and the general proportions are rude. This is shown
about one third of the actual length.
The Effigy mound was next examined. The first trial shafts proved it to
be evidently of human construction, and not of glacial origin, as some had
supposed. One or two open cuts were then begun, using teams with a large
shovel until indications of burials were found, when the further work would
be carried on by hand, with extreme care.
After about two weeks, in which time several skeletons were unearthed,
with some shells, beads, and copper ornaments, a burial of extraordinary
character was reached on November 14. Here was lying a skeleton which
the newspapers soon reported as “The King of the Mound-Builders.” It was
much decayed, but was covered and surrounded with a wealth of relics. The
skull was surmounted by a tall cap or helmet of copper, from which
extended a wonderful pair of antlers, exactly imitating those of a deer, but
made of wood and covered with copper. The whole skeleton, to quote the
words of Mr. Moorehead, “glittered with mica, pearl, shell, and copper.”
Plates of the latter were above, beneath, and around it, with bears’ and
panthers’ teeth, etc., and over 1000 beads, many of them of pearl. The
succeeding month, during which the last cut was finished down to the base-
line, and a third one much advanced, revealed numerous skeletons, with
abundant objects of the same general kind, including a remarkable separate
deposit of copper articles of curious workmanship, ornaments of cut mica,
and one of cannel coal, fragments of meteoric iron and celts made
therefrom, and “many thousand pearl and shell beads.” The latest trophy

Page 625

here unearthed was another enormous ax of copper, nearly two feet in
length, unparalleled in the world.
The first altar was next reached; it was about four by five feet, and some
six inches deep, and had an immense variety of objects upon it and around
it, nearly all entirely ruined by the fire. Among them were pearl beads.
The largest altar had been not only heaped with all sorts of valuables, but
they had been piled around it so as to form a sloping mass of twelve feet or
more in diameter at the base. Among these was a layer of mica plates of
extraordinary size, eighteen or twenty inches in diameter. It is not easy even
now to obtain sheets of mica of such dimensions, in any quantity. Carvings
and effigies in bone and slate, rock crystal arrow-heads, obsidian knives,
etc., etc., damaged and broken by heat, were cemented together by half-
melted copper. The pearl and shell beads taken out amid the ashes are
estimated at not less than 100,000.
The Effigy mound, “a place for ceremony, for sacrifice, for burial,” as
Mr. Moorehead calls it, thus combining the character of the first three
classes distinguished by Squier and Davis, is seen not to have been
constructed at one time, but to have developed gradually through perhaps a
long period. The several altars, the more important burials, the store of
copper objects, each was surmounted by a small and separate mound.
“These may have been built on the level dance or ceremonial floors, from
time to time. When the entire floor was covered, the people brought large
quantities of earth and gravel, heaped it on top of the irregular contour of
the small mounds, and this formed the present Effigy.”
The population that occupied the main inclosure was apparently not very
large, as compared with some other of the important earthworks, such as
Fort Ancient, or Madisonville. From the distribution of village-site debris,
Mr. Moorehead estimates that there could have been only from two hundred
to three hundred lodges, even if these were all occupied at the same time.
But the indications of traffic and of art show that it must have been a
community advanced in culture beyond most of its neighbors. Mr.
Moorehead believes it to have been a sort of capital among a body of allied
or affiliated tribes who made and occupied the similar earthwork towns of
the “mound belt,”—a center of production and distribution of art objects,
and a place for the holding of great religious ceremonials. It may be noted,
however, that the art was developed in certain directions and not in others

Page 626

wherein it might be expected. In hammered copper-work and in drilling, it
was most remarkable, in the latter extending even to the perforation of
quartz crystals, but of pottery there is little, and that not very choice—a
striking contrast to the abundant and elaborately ornamental potter’s art of
the tribes in the Southwest.
Tonti, the historian of La Salle’s expedition, in the eighteenth century,
states that La Salle actually saw mound-dwellers among southern tribes of
Indians, living very much as the Ohio mound-builders must have done, and
quite untouched as yet by any contact with the whites. Tonti describes the
dwellings, made of sun-dried mud and with dome-shaped roofs of cane; two
of them were larger and better constructed than the rest, one the chief’s
house and the other a temple, both about forty feet square. The latter held
the bones of deceased chieftains, and was surmounted by three rude,
wooden eagles. In the center was apparently “a kind of altar,” where was
maintained a perpetual fire of logs, watched by two aged men. A recess, to
which strangers were not admitted, contained the treasures of the tribe,
especially pearls from the Gulf, as he was told. The chief returned the visit
of La Salle, coming in great state, with attendants, one of whom bore a disk
of copper, supposed to represent the sun, the chief’s great ancestor.[559] The
wooden eagles recall the large copper bird taken from mound No. 25 at
Hopewell; and the copper disk carried before the chief suggests a similar
use for some of the large objects of the same metal. The whole account is
extremely interesting in its resemblance to the Ohio remains.
The most complete study of these ancient structures is that of the Harness
mound, not far distant from the Hopewell, conducted under the direction of
the Ohio State Archæological and Historical Society, in 1905, by their
curator and librarian, Prof. William C. Mills.[560]
The Harness group contains within and about it fourteen mounds; the
works as a whole were described by Squier and Davis, on page 56 of their
great report (“Ancient Monuments of the Mississippi Valley,” 1848), and
have been frequently mentioned and pictured for their striking form,—a
large and perfect circle, opening at one side into a smaller circle and also
into an exact square. They are located, like the Hopewell, in Ross County,
and stand on a terrace of the Scioto River, nearly a mile from its eastern
bank, and about eight miles south of Chillicothe.

Page 627

The square inclosure measures 1080 feet on each side, and the diameters
of the two circles are about 1600 feet for the larger and 650 feet for the
smaller. In general character, this group closely resembles the Hopewell:
there is the same low wall or embankment, some four feet high, though
without any ditch as at Hopewell, and the same problem as to its object. A
number of small mounds are placed here and there, and one large and
important one recalls the Effigy, though it is somewhat less in size and
much more regular in form. In 1846, when Squier and Davis examined it,
unfortunately most of the ground was covered with woods; but these are
gone, and the works have since been much reduced by tillage and partly
obliterated by railroad and other constructions.
The one large mound is named for the recent owner of the property, Mr.
Edwin Harness; the present owner, his son, Mr. John M. Harness, aided and
facilitated the explorations in every way. This fact, as also in the case of Mr.
Hopewell, stands in pleasing and honorable contrast to the narrow policy of
some land-owners, who refuse permission for any such work, even when
the structures are upon unused and valueless ground.
The large mound is an almost perfect oval in form, 160 feet long and
some 80 feet across at its widest point, which is about one third of the way
from the northern end; in height it is nearly 20 feet, or was before its recent
removal. It was partly explored by Squier and Davis in 1846, and quite
extensively by Professor Putnam in 1885, and, unlike the Effigy mound,
had been repeatedly opened and examined in a small way by both official
and unofficial explorers. In 1896, Mr. W. K. Moorehead took up the work
where Professor Putnam had stopped, and carried it considerably further,
under the auspices of the Ohio Archæological and Historical Society; and
the same body, in 1905, commissioned Mr. Mills to resume and complete
the examination, removing the entire structure down to its base.
The Harness mound, unlike the Effigy, was for burial purposes only.
There must have been nearly two hundred. Squier and Davis found one of
these, and possibly another which they mistook for an “altar”; and they state
their belief that the mound probably contained other burials which their two
pits had not revealed. Professor Putnam encountered 12 burials, Mr.
Moorehead 27, and the final exploration 133, making a total of 174. Besides
these, an unknown number have been disturbed and removed by occasional
explorers. Of the 174 recorded, only ten had been buried without being

Page 628

burned; the rest were all cremated, some where they were laid, but most of
them elsewhere, and the ashes brought and placed in the grave. This was in
all cases carefully prepared, within a small inclosure of logs, the decayed
and charred remains of which are clearly traceable. The entire mound itself
had been outlined with posts set in the ground. the holes and impressions
remaining as evidence of the fact.
Mr. Mills outlines the history of this mound, in a way that recalls Mr.
Moorehead’s views as to the gradual growth of the Effigy. It began as a
place for the holding of funeral rites and the deposit of the dead, marked out
by lines of posts, which show that it was from time to time enlarged.
Finally, when the place was substantially filled, earth and gravel were
deposited over the whole, and slabs of stone (particularly noted by Squier
and Davis) were laid around it, upon the lower part of the slope.
Much description is given of the separate graves or burial chambers,
which are of several types, and of the various details of the cremated and
uncremated interments. The mound is rich in relics, although none of the
profuse sacrificial accumulations of the “altars” were encountered, this
being a mound of burial only. The relics are of the same kind, in general, as
those found in the Hopewell group, and to specify them in detail would be
only repetition. From the 133 graves opened in Mr. Mills’s final
investigation, no less than 1200 specimens were obtained for the museum
of the Archæological Society at Columbus. Among these were artefacts of
Lake Superior copper (and some pieces of native silver), large shells from
the Gulf, galena, obsidian, and much mica, both in “blocks” and cut into
ornaments, all showing the same range of aboriginal commerce as already
described at Hopewell. In reference to pearls, the following are the principal
observations:
Beads made from Unio pearls were very abundant everywhere in the
Harness mound, as also beads of shell. They are found in such position as to
show that they were strung and worn around the neck or wrists. One burial
(No. 100) had some 2100 pearl beads, all rather small, and some of them
perfectly round. Several hundred were obtained, however, that ranged from
one quarter to one half an inch in diameter. A number of these are shown of
natural size. The larger pearls, instead of being bored through for beads, are
frequently somewhat flattened by grinding, and then pierced with two holes
so as to attach them to a fabric. Very large ones were sometimes set in

Page 629

copper,—a style of work never observed before. Mr. Mills says of this:
“Large and select pearls were flattened upon one side by grinding, and then
placed upon a circular disk of copper a little larger than the pearl. The edges
were then turned (up) around the pearl, holding it in place. Not only were
pearls set in this way, but various pieces of shell cut in a circular form.”
Fine examples of this unique style of jewelry, of natural size, and another
copper setting of like character, from which the pearl has been lost, are
shown in plates facing pages 499 and 510.
More curious still is the discovery of imitation pearls, made of clay, and
apparently modeled from real ones as they reproduce all the irregularities of
form of the true pearls. They could easily have been made more nearly
spherical, as the beads cut from shell are so regular as to look as though
made by machinery. These somewhat irregular clay imitations, found with
the genuine pearls, were first coated with a pulverent mica and then burned
so as to preserve a pearly appearance.
Other forms of art work were abundantly represented in the Harness
mound, such as carvings and decorations in stone and bone; a variety of
textile fabrics, of which remnants are preserved when they were in contact
with plates of copper, the salts of the metal having penetrated the fabric and
prevented its entire decay; very skilful work in copper, and to some extent
in native silver and meteoric iron; and numerous fragments of pottery, more
or less ornamental with simple impressed patterns. The “culture,” as a
whole, appears to have been equal, and very similar, to that of the Hopewell
community, and these are regarded as having been the most advanced
among the Ohio mound-builders; while the term “Fort Ancient culture” is
applied to a somewhat lower grade in the matter of arts, which has its chief
illustration among the builders and occupants of that celebrated work. By
such researches, thus minutely and systematically conducted, there is now
beginning to be possible something like a classification of these ancient
unknown tribes, which will doubtless be developed more fully, as
investigation shall be extended and its results combined and compared.
As to pearls in the mounds of Illinois, we are informed by the veteran
archæologist, Dr. J. F. Snyder, that in 1889 he found the skeletons of three
adult Indians at the base of a small mound on the bluffs of the Sangomon
River in Cass County. These skeletons were in a squatting posture; artefacts
—such as greenstone celts, a bicave stone and a heavy pipe—had only been

Page 630

deposited with one of them. Around each wrist and ankle of this skeleton
were perforated beads made from Marginella shells, and resting on the
sternum was a solitary pearl which had evidently formed the center of a
necklace of the same small marine shells. Although much decayed, it still
retained something of its original luster. It was spherical, measured
approximately seven eighths of an inch in diameter, and was perforated
through the middle. Dr. Snyder also states that at the base of one of the
large mounds he opened in 1895, in Brown County, on the west side of the
Illinois River, he discovered a number of the large canine teeth of the bear,
perforated at the roots, so as to be used for necklaces. On the convex side of
each tooth were from two to four pits about one third of an inch in diameter,
and the same in depth, in which gems had been inserted. Two small pearls
were still in place. Near by were the remains of another necklace composed
of alternate pearls and bone beads; the latter were oblong and perforated
lengthwise. Eight of the pearls were recovered, ranging in diameter from
one half to one third of an inch, and pierced through the center, but all were
very badly injured by the action of fire.
Mr. David I. Bushnell, who has excavated the McEvers mound in
Montezuma, Pike County, Illinois, for the Missouri Historical Society,
found in this mound a cyst containing a skeleton six feet in height and also
a skull reposing on a bundle of bones near which lay forty-five pearls, one
of them weighing fifty-two grains and still showing a beautiful luster.
Almost all the objects discovered in the mound will be presented to the
Missouri Historical Society. The large pearl would be worth from $12,000
to $15,000 if it were in perfect condition.
We learn from Mr. Richard Herrmann, founder of the Herrmann Museum
of Natural History, Dubuque, Iowa, that on the top of the high cliff from
Eagle’s Point to its end at McKnight’s Spring, there were formerly a great
many mounds which were long ago examined by government experts.
Many ancient ornaments were found in these mounds, among them a string
of pearls, greatly damaged from having been buried for a long period.[561]
Mr. Herrmann believes that these pearls were taken from the Mississippi
River by the mound-builders.
Enough has been said, in this general sketch, to give some idea of the
extent to which pearls, largely those from the fresh-water Unios, were
gathered and used by the native tribes of North America, from the ancient

Page 631

mound-builders of the Ohio Valley to the Indians encountered by the
explorers and colonists of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.
The love of pearls shown by the Indians was as noteworthy as was their
devotion to their dead and the superstitious mystery which enshrouds their
funeral rites; for, when the human sacrifice was consummated, the act was
performed in as earnest a spirit of devotion as was shown by Abraham in
his readiness to sacrifice Isaac, and the Indians evidenced an almost
pathetic sentiment either of reverence, duty, or supernatural dread.
Dr. J. Walter Fewkes writes that in none of his excavations has he ever
noted pearls. Haliotis shells, conch shells, and fragments of the same have
been found in the great ruins at Casa Grande, Arizona.
Dr. Charles Hercules Read, director of the Department of Archæology of
the British Museum, states that the Mexican mosaic masks in the Christy
collection, which are pre-Columbian in origin, and probably date hundreds
of years in advance of the conquest, prove of special interest from the fact
that five of them contain an inlay of mother-of-pearl shell. The first of these
is a plain mask in which the eyes are of mother-of-pearl; the second is a
dagger having the details of feather-work in mother-of-pearl; the third, a
circular shield center having the eyes, teeth, fingers, and toes of the figures
in mother-of-pearl; the fourth, a helmet with small pieces of pearl-shell
representing collars around the necks of rattlesnakes; and the fifth is a
jaguar in the side of which are similar inlays. These masks are described by
Dr. Read in “Archæologia,” Society of Antiquaries, London, Vol. LIV, p.
383; in this volume the objects are shown in color. Dr. Read communicates
that the pearl jaguar seems to be of more recent execution, but he believes
the first four to be original. He is not entirely sure that these objects contain
the true mother-of-pearl, the substance having changed so much as to make
a decision doubtful even if it were extracted. He states, however, that it is a
pearly, nacreous shell, resembling that of the ordinary pearl-oyster. In these
masks are also other shells, among them a red shell, probably a spondylus,
almost as red as coral. The mother-of-pearl is of special interest as it is quite
possible that the shell itself was known, and it may be that pearls also
formed part of a commerce that existed between the coast and the interior.

Page 632

Group of charred, cut fresh-
water pearls; more than
100,000 found in mounds

Finger-shaped piece of lignite
inlaid with fresh-water pearl

Copper bird, 15⅞ inches long with eye of fresh-water pearl

Page 633

FRESH-WATER PEARLS FROM HOPEWELL GROUP OF MOUNDS,
ROSS COUNTY, OHIO
We are informed by Mr. E. P. Dieseldorf, of Coban, Republic of
Guatemala, that he has never observed pearls in the pre-Columbian graves
in Guatemala; he had, however, frequently found marine shells, whole, and
elaborated in connection with jadeite beads.
In a personal communication, Mr. Thomas Gann, of Yucatan, states that,
in excavating a mound at San Antonio, near the mouth of the Rio Hondo, in
Yucatan, he uncovered a small stone cyst or chamber, containing two
perforated, pear-like ornaments of considerable size, together with portions
of a human skeleton, painted pottery, etc. He also states that ornaments such
as beads, gorgets, and ear-pendants, made from the pearly shell of both the
oyster and the conch, are of common occurrence in many sepulchral
mounds in British Honduras and in Yucatan, and he notes the fact that pink
conch pearls are found in considerable numbers at the present day along the
coast of British Honduras. There is no especial fishing for pearls, and they
are found only incidentally in conchs which have been gathered for food.
These pearls are sold by fishermen in Balize at prices varying from two or
three dollars to twenty or thirty apiece. In size they range from that of a
large pin’s head to that of a small pea.
Mrs. Marie Robinson Wright informs us that she has never found pearls
in the Bolivian graves, although they are quite plentiful in Bolivia to-day,
and hundreds of them are offered in the markets. The pretty girls wear them
as earrings and in their topos.
There is no doubt that pearls existed long before the advent of man, both
in the fresh-water and in the marine form. This is more clearly evidenced by
Sir Charles Lyell, who calls attention to the fact that the fresh-water mussel
(Unio littoralis Gray), formerly found in abundance at Grays Thurrock,
Essex, no longer exists in England, but occurs in France, showing that not
only had this mollusk been unseen by any Englishman, but that the form
had become extinct in an entire country. Thus, both the pearl shell of the
ocean and the pearl-mussel of the river, for many centuries produced pearls,
which passed away with the shell itself.
A great number of fossil Unios were collected by Barnum Brown from
the Laramie clays, 130 miles northwest of Miles City, Montana. The shells
were found in a bed situated about 180 feet above the Fort Pierre shales

Page 634

and, therefore, well above the recognized cretaceous strata. These shells
were in fairly good condition and retained the nacreous coloring to a
considerable extent. As some of them resemble the modern species, it seems
that the same designations might be applied to them.
Prof. R. P. Whitfield, one of our greatest palæontologists, who has
carefully examined these fossil shells, suggests that they are probably the
progenitors of the species of Unios and fresh-water mussels that now
inhabit the Mississippi and Wisconsin rivers and their tributaries, and he
proposes the following names for some of them, indicating at the same time
the living species with which he compares them: Unio biæsopoides, Unio
æsopoides and Unio æsopiformis, all resembling U. æsopus Green; Unio
letsoni = U. cornutus Barnes; Unio cylindricoides = U. cylindricus Say;
Unio gibbosoides = U. gibbosus Barnes; Unio pyramidatoides = U.
pyramidatus Lea; Unio retusoides = U. retusus Lam.; Unio verucosiformis
= U. verrucosus Barnes.
Although it is almost certain that these ancient Unios were pearl-bearing,
Professor Whitfield informs us that, in a period of fifty years of
palæontological research, he has never found a fossil pearl.
We are informed by Sophus Müller, Director of the Royal Danish
Museum of Antiquities at Copenhagen, that no Danish ornaments
containing pearls have been found dating from an earlier period than 1000
B.C.; he also states that no fresh-water pearls have ever been discovered in
the Danish graves.
Dr. H. Ulmann, director of the great Swiss Landesmuseum at Zurich, and
Dr. Otto Leiner, director of the Rosengarten Museum at Constance,
personally communicated to us that no pearls exist in either of the
collections of these great museums, nor to their knowledge have any been
discovered in the lake-dwellings or the prehistoric graves of either
Switzerland or Baden. This may either be due to conditions favorable to the
dissolution of the pearl by the action of the ooze on the lake bottom, or else
to the entire absence of knowledge of them on the part of a people who
were familiar with many materials, since the museum collections even show
jade implements of a number of types.
Dr. Leiner, whose father was curator of the Rosengarten Museum before
him, informs us that at Bodman on Lake Constance there were found a large
number of bored cylinders, from one fourth of an inch to one inch in length,

Page 635

made out of limestone. They were used for necklaces, somewhat in the style
of our Indian wampum, and were either worn alone or in connection with
bored cylinders made of the tuff-rock and also of encrinite stems.
Dr. Leiner also asserts that he has never seen Unio margaritifera in Lake
Constance; nor was there any evidence of shells, broken or otherwise,
observed by him in the excavations in the lake-dwellings.
The curator of the Rhodesia Museum, Bulawayo, South Africa, states that
in Rhodesia, in the vicinity of Bulawayo, beads made out of the shell of the
common Unio or fresh-water mussel (Unio verreauxi) have been observed
in the graves, although pearls themselves have never been found with them
in any burials.

Page 636

ADDENDA
One of the authors used every endeavor in 1893 and 1894 to have a bill passed by Congress for the
regulation of pearl-fishing in the United States. These efforts were frustrated by the influence of the
local pearl fishers. An attempt has now been made to preserve the industry in Illinois, where the
legislature has this spring passed a bill for its regulation.
The first section of the bill provides:
It shall be unlawful for any person or persons to take or catch, by any means whatever, in any of
the navigable waters within the jurisdiction of this State, any mussel, fresh-water clam or shell-fish
from the first day of October to the first day of April (both dates inclusive) of each succeeding year.
The bill imposes upon any one who violates these provisions a fine of not
less than $25, nor more than $100, or imprisonment in the county jail for a
term not exceeding one year, or else both fine and imprisonment at the
discretion of the court.
Another section provides that any one not a resident of Illinois, who takes
clams, shell-fish, or mussels, without procuring a license, shall be subject to
a fine of not less than $50, nor more than $100, or to imprisonment for one
year, or to both penalties. The licenses may be procured on application and
payment of $50 for each vessel to be employed, and they expire on the first
day of October following their issuance. The amount received for these
licenses is to be turned over to the State Treasurer at the end of each month
and placed to the credit of the State Fish Protective Fund. No boat having
more than two bars, each not exceeding sixteen feet in length, shall be used
for this fishery, and the space separating the hooks on these bars is not to be
less than eight inches.
Miss Carl, the artist who painted the portraits of the Empress and that of
the Dowager Empress of China, states that she wears a diamond ring. When
she shows this she apologizes for wearing it, stating that it had been given
to her by the Viceroy, Li Hung Chang, saying that she, herself, sees no
beauty in the sparkle of the diamond; for her there is more beauty in the
soft, quiet tones of the pearl than in the brilliancy of the diamond.
During the Boxer War in China, the looting was carried on to so great an
extent, that a French hotel-keeper is said to have obtained a basket of pearls,
which he bought for a trifle, and which are said to have netted him very
nearly $1,000,000.

Page 637

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Page 638

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The English Regalia. London, 1897. 4to.
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Page 646

Nacroculture et ostréiculture perlière aux îles Pomotu (Océanie).
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Breeding Pearls. Journal of the Straits Branch of the Royal Asiatic
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Diamonds and Precious Stones; a Popular Account of Gems. Translated
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Pêche de l’huître perlière dans le Golfe de Californie. Bulletin de la
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Report on the Inspection of Pearl Banks, 1875. Sessional Papers.
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Page 647

Report on the Inspection of the Pearl Oyster Banks, 1876. Sessional
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Nos Parures. Le Jais et les Perles Fausses. Paris, 1890. 12mo.
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Sur le mécanisme de la formation des perles fines dans le Mytilus
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Sur l’acclimatation et la culture des Pintadines, ou huîtres perlières
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Paris, 1903.

Page 648

Application des rayons X à la recherche des perles fines. Comptes
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Dutens (Louis)
Des pierres précieuses et des perles fines, avec les moyens de les
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Eberhard (Johann Peter)
Abhandlung von dem Ursprung der Perle, worin deren Zeugung,
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Aux îles des perles. Journal le Correspondent, pp. 977–996. Paris,
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Manière de faire des perles artificielles. Lettre à Pekin, 4 Nov. 1734.
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Memoria sobre la pesca de la perla en la Baja California. Boletin de la
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Mexico, 1865.

Page 649

Farrington (Oliver Cummings)
Gems and Gem Minerals. Chicago, 1903. 8vo.
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All about Gold, Gems, and Pearls in Ceylon and Southern India....
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The Voyages of Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, 1595–1606. Translated
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Feuchtwanger (Lewis)
A Popular Treatise on Gems, in Reference to Their Scientific Value.
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Einige Nachrichten von dem Rehauischen Perlen Bach. Frankische
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Underbrush. Boston, 1881. 8vo.
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Sull’ origine delle perle. Il Cimento revista di Scienza, Lettere, ed Arti,
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Page 650

Troisième mémoire pour servir à l’histoire génétique des Trématodes.
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Fischer (Gotthelf)
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Production artificielle des perles. Journal de Conchyliologie, Vol. xiii,
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Frank Leslie’s Magazine
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La Pêche aux Perles. Paris, 1887. 8vo.
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Perlen der Juwelierausstellung. Internationale Fischerei-Austellung zu
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Fryer (John)
A new Account of East-India and Persia. London, 1698. Fol.

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Page 651

On the Pearls of the Conway River, North Wales. British Association
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Australasia Illustrated. 3 vols. Sydney, 1892. 4to.
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Margaritologia, sive dissertatio de Margaritis, in qua, post varia ad
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Giro del mondo. Nuova edizione, accresciuta, ricorretta, e divisa in
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L’épithélium sécréteur des perles. Comptes Rendus de la Société de
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Curiosities of Pearls. “Gentleman’s Magazine,” Vol. cclxxvii, pp.
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Life in the Southern Isles; or Scenes and Incidents in the South Pacific
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Valuation of Pearls in Ceylon. Journal of the Ceylon Branch of the
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Gimma (Giacinto)

Page 652

Della storia naturale delle gemme, delle pietre, e di tutti i minerali,
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The Pearl-shell Fisheries of Queensland. U. S. Consular Reports, No.
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Also published in Bulletin U. S. Fish Commission, Vol. vi, pp. 433–
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Grill (Johan Abraham)
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The Pearl Fishery. “The New Monthly Magazine,” Vol. lxxxii, pp. 70–
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Guido (Joannis)

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De Mineralibus tractatus absolutissimus. Francofurti, 1627. 8vo.
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Malaysia and the Pacific Archipelago. London, 1894. 8vo.
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A Small Fish of the Genus Fierasfer Imbedded in the Shell of
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History of Pearls, Natural and Artificial. “Godey’s Magazine,” Vol.
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Pearls and Pearl Divers of the Gulf of California. “St. James’s
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Colombia: its present state. Philadelphia, 1825. 12mo.
Hamilton (Alexander), Captain
A New Account of the East Indies. 2 vols. Edinburgh, 1727. 8vo.
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Les moules perlières de Billiers (Mytilus edulis). Bulletin de la Société
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Travels in the Interior of Mexico, in 1825, 1826, 1827, and 1828.
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Microscopic Examination of Pearls. “The Cheltenham Ladies’ College
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Harley (George and Harold S.)

Page 654

The Chemical Composition of Pearls. Proceedings of the Royal Society
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Sur la production artificielle de quelques-unes des principales
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Historical Researches into the Politics, Intercourse and Trade of the
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The Pearl Fisheries of Ceylon. Abstract of a discourse delivered at the
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Also in Smithsonian Report for 1904, pp. 485–493.

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Presidential Address, 1905. Proceedings of the Linnean Society of
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A Catalogue of the Collection of Pearls and Precious Stones formed by
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Theophrastus’s History of Stones, with the Greek Text and an English
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Report on the Conditions and Prospects of the Pearl Oyster Banks,
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Home (Everard), Sir, Bart.

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On the Production and Formation of Pearls. Philosophical Transactions
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Ibn Batuta
The Travels of Ibn Batuta. Translated from the original Arabic
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The Conquest of Florida, under Hernando de Soto. 2 vols. London,
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I Molluschi Commestibili, le Applicazioni delle Conchiglie, le Perle e i
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On the Origin of Pearls. Proceedings of the Zoological Society of
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Treatise on Diamonds and Pearls and the True Method of
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A Treatise on Diamonds and Pearls. Fourth edition, corrected to the
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Antiquities of the Southern Indians, Particularly of the Georgia Tribes.
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History and Mystery of Precious Stones. London, 1880. 8vo.
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Kæmpfer (Engelbert)
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La pêche des perles en Livonie. Annales de la Société Malacologique
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Report on the Pearl and Pearl Shell Fisheries of North Queensland.
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Kingsmill (Walter)
The Pearling Industry [of Western Australia]. Illustrated Handbook of
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Perle in Unio rostratus. Zoologischer Garten, p. 155. Berlin, 1896.
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Tripang- und Perlenfischerei in niederländischen Australien. Ausland,
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On the Occurrence of Pearls in the United States. Transactions of the
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Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Gems in the United States
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Australind: Wanderings in Western Australia and the Malay East.
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Tavernier (Jean Baptiste)
Les Six Voyages de J. B. Tavernier en Turquie, en Perse et aux Indes.
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Page 676

Travels in India, 1640–1667.... Translated from the original French
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Taylor (W. H.)
Taylor’s Submarine Pearl Fishing Company. New York, 1848. 8vo.
Teixeira (Pedro)
The Travels of Pedro Teixeira; with his “Kings of Hormuz” (1608) and
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Tenebre (Jehan)
La pêche des perles. A Travers le Monde, pp. 232–234. Paris, 1905.
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Ceylon: an Account of the Island. 2 vols. London, 1859. 8vo.
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Theophrastus’s History of Stones, With the Greek Text and an English
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Theophrastus von den Steinen, aus dem Griechischen. (By A. H.
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A Report on Pearl Fisheries and Chank Fisheries [of Tuticorin], 1884.
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History of the Fisheries of New South Wales; with a Sketch of the
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Sketch of the Ceylon Pearl Fishery of 1903. Spolia Zeylonica, Vol. I,
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Notes on the Pearl and Chank Fisheries and Marine Fauna of the Gulf
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Page 677

Pearl and Chank Fisheries of the Gulf of Manaar. Madras Government
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Collection of Pearls and the Shells in Which They Are Found in the
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Tollius (Jacobus)
Epistolæ itinerariæ, ex auctoris schedis postumis recensitæ, suppletæ et
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Townsend (Charles Haskins)
Report Upon the Pearl Fishery of the Gulf of California. Bulletin U. S.
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Tullberg (Tycho)
Studien über den Bau und das Wachsthum des Hummerpanzers und der
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Report on the Pearl Fishery of 1877. Sessional Papers. Colombo, 1877.
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Page 678

Report on the Pearl Fishery of 1891. Sessional Papers. Colombo, 1891.
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Report on the Ceylon Pearl Fisheries. Sessional Papers. Colombo,
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Twynam (William C.) and Donnan (James)
Reports by the Superintendent of the Fishery and the Inspector of the
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Ulloa (Antonio de), Admiral
Relación histórica del viage á la América meridional. 5 vols. Madrid,
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Ungewitter (Friedrich H.)
Geschichte des Handels, der Industrie und Schifffahrt von den ältesten
Zeiten an bis auf die Gegenwart. Leipzig und Meissen (1844). 8vo.

Vane (George)
Ceylon Pearl Fisheries. Report to Governor Sir Henry Ward, February
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The Pearl Fisheries of Ceylon. Journal of the Ceylon Branch of the
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The Three Voyages of Vasco da Gama. London, Hakluyt Society, 1869.
8vo.
Vaughan (Rice)
A Discourse of Coin and Coinage ... as also Tables of the Value of All
Sorts of Pearls, Diamonds, Gold, Silver, and Other Metals. London, 1675.
12mo.
Vega (Garcilasso de la)
Historia de la Florida. 4 vols. Madrid, 1803. 24mo.
Venegas (Miguel)

Page 679

A Natural and Civil History of California Containing an Accurate
Description of That Country. 2 vols. London, 1759. 8vo.
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Traité des Pierres qui s’engendrent dans les terres et dans les animaux,
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1701. 12mo.
Vere (Schele de)
Jewels of the Deep: Pearls. “Putnam’s Magazine,” Vol. xi, pp. 278–
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Vernatti (Philiberto), Sir
Pearl-divers in the East Indies, Their Time Under Water. Philosophical
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Sull’ origine delle perle e sulla possibilita di produrle artificialmente.
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Vincent (William)
The Commerce and Navigation of the Ancients in the Indian Ocean. 2
vols. London, 1807. 4to.

W. (S.)
Recollections of Ceylon: its Forests and its Pearl Fishery. “Fraser’s
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American Pearls. Ann Arbor, Mich., 8vo, 48 pages, paper, 5 plates.
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Scotch Pearls and Pearl Hunting. “Gentleman’s Magazine,” Vol.
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Page 680

A Visit to the Ceylon Pearl Fisheries. “The Graphic,” Vol. lxxi, pp.
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Om Perler og Perlefiskerierne. Norske Fiskeritidende, pp. 252–263.
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Wellsted (James Raymond)
Travels in Arabia. 2 vols. London, 1838. 8vo.
Travels to the City of the Caliphs Along the Shores of the Persian Gulf
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Westerlund (Carl Agardh)
Fauna Molluscorum terrestrium et fluriatilium Sveciæ, Norvegiæ et
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Westropp (Hodder M.)
A Manual of Precious Stones and Antique Gems. London, 1874. 8vo.
Whigham (H. J.)
The Persian Problem. London, 1903. 8vo.
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Fishing for Pearls in Australia. “The Century Magazine,” Vol. xxi, pp.
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Pearl-diving and Its Perils. “The Cosmopolitan,” Vol. xviii, pp. 564–
572. New York, March, 1895.
The World’s Rough Hand: Toil and Adventure at the Antipodes. New
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Working Under Water: the Story of an Amateur Pearl Fisher. “The
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Williams (Charles)
Silvershell; or the Adventures of an Oyster. London, 1856. 8vo.
Wilson (D.), Colonel
Pearl Fisheries in the Persian Gulf.

Page 681

Journal of the Royal Geographic Society of London, Vol. iii, pp. 283–
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Wohlberedt (O.)
Nachtrag zur Molluskenfauna des Königreiches Sachsen.
Nachrichtsblatt der deutschen Malakozoologischen Gesellschaft, pp. 97–
104. Frankfurt, 1899.
Wolf (Johann Christoph)
Reise nach Zeilan. Nebst einem Berichte von der holländischen
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Woodward (Henry)
Parasitical Animals in Meleagrina margaritifera of Australia.
Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London, 1886, pp. 176–177.

Zimmern (Helen)
Stories in Precious Stones. London, 1873. 8vo.
Zwemer (S. M.)
Arabia: the Cradle of Islam. New York, 1900. 8vo.

Page 682

INDEX

Page 683

INDEX

Abalone pearls, 55, 78, 148, 280, 291, 351, 414
Abbas the Great, 455
Abdul-Aziz, 421
Aberdeenshire, Scotland, 164, 166
Aboriginal use of pearls, 485–513
Abortive ova theory, 42
Abraham and Sarah, 7
Accidents to divers, 117, 138, 144, 197, 203, 208, 247, 249
Acid stains, 376
Acosta, José de, 232
Aden, Arabia, 37, 142
Aden, Gulf of, 80, 140
Adirondack, New York, 266
Adour River, France, 171
Adrian, Pope, 313
Africa, 65, 140, 153–156
Age of mollusks, 74, 108, 171
Ago Bay, Japan, 292
Aitken, E. H., 133

Page 684

Alabama, 492, 493
Alasmodon arcuata, 73
margaritifera, 281
Albertus Magnus, 311
Alexander the Great, 319
Alexander VI, 24
Alexander Severus, 10
Alexandra, Queen, 165, 418
(plate), 438
Alexandria, 320
Alexandria shell, 69
Alfonso X, 311
Alfred the Great, 414
Algonquin Indians, 486
America, 225–282, 294
America, Prehistoric, 23, 485–512
American Museum of Natural History, 266, 467
Amsterdam, Diamond Merchants of, 325
Anania of Shiraz, 329
Ancients, Pearls among the, 3–12
Anglesey, Marquis of, 479
Angoulème, Duchess of, 170
Anhalt Dessau, Duchess of, 476
Anjou, Duke of, 425
Annan River, Scotland, 164
Anne de Bretagne, 436
Anne de France, Duchess, 435

Page 685

Anodonta cygnea, 42, 168
Antwerp, Chamber of Commerce of, 327
Apparatus of capture, 166, 181, 268–270.
See Dredges, Scaphanders.
Apple River, Wisconsin, 262
Aqualia jewels, 479
Aqua perlata, 311
Archangel, Russia, 181, 184
Areca-nut, 310
Arethusa necklace, 405
Aristotle, 95
Arizona, 510
Arkansas, 259, 263, 264, 270, 276, 361
Arkansas River, 263, 264
Arlington, Tenn., 263
Arnobio, Cleandro, 344
Arnold, Sir Edwin, 41, 85
Arthurian legends, 304
Artificial pearls, 41, 285–293
Aru Islands, 206, 220
Ashburnham missal, 17
Assyria, Pearls in, 6, 404
Atax ypsilophorus, 43
Atharvaveda, 4, 301
Athens National Museum, 405
Atwater, Caleb, 500

Page 686

Auction of oysters, 120
Auction of pearls, 470–472, 477–481
Augsburg, Germany, 320
Australia, 30, 58, 65, 68, 199–212, 291, 294, 466
Austria, Fisheries of, 178–179
Austrian Schatzkammer, 472–474
Awabi. See Abalone.
Aztecs, Pearls among the, 23

Bacon, Francis, 313
Baden, Germany, 177
Baegert, Jacob, 244
Bagdad, 88, 98, 335, 411
Bagge, J. P., 287
Bahama Islands, 278
Bahrein Islands, 85, 88–90
Balapur, India, 133
Baldknob, Arkansas, 276
Banda, 221
Banks, Edgar J., 5
Bann River, Ireland, 165
Bantam Lake, Conn., 266
Bapst pearls, 465
Barbot, Charles, 337, 390
Baroda, Gaikwar of, 460
Baroque pearls, 30, 31, 59, 265, 272, 353, 359, 464, 475, 476

Page 687

Baroque pearls, Values of, 337, 340, 343, 355
Barthema, Lodovico, 86
Base value for pearls, 330–333
Basilica of St. Mark, 17, 59
Bassein Coast, India, 139
Bath, Marquis of, 355
Batthyani, Count Louis, 467
—— Countess Louis, 434
Bavaria, 171–173, 294
Bazaruto Islands, 153, 156
Beads, 403, 497, 498, 508
Beckmann, Johann, 287
Bede, 160
Bell, Robert N., 492
Benjamin of Tudela, 37, 86
Benzoni, Girolamo, 231
Berri, Duc de, 426
Beuth-Schinkel Museum, Charlottenburg, 421
Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris, 407, 425, 428, 436
Biedma, Louis Hernandez de, 253, 257
Bird’s-eye pearls, 56, 353
Birdwood, Sir George, 319
Birmingham, Jewelers’ and Goldsmiths’ Association of, 327
Blackmore, H. P., 490
Blackmore Museum, 490, 500
Black pearls, 29, 60, 241, 349, 355, 376, 467, 476

Page 688

Black River, Arkansas, 264, 273
Black Rock, Arkansas, 264, 276
Bleaching pearls, 377, 396
Blister pearls, 58, 353
Blue-point shell, 72
Boats, 91, 112, 136, 141, 166, 205, 218, 234
Bober River, Germany, 175
Bohemia, Austria, 178
Bohemian pearls, 433, 434
Bolchow, H. W. F., 478
Bolivia, 511
Bologna treatise of, 1791, 331, 338, 342, 343
Bombay, 88, 89, 98, 156, 347, 354, 357
Bombay Presidency, 132
Bombay shell, 69, 143
Boncza, Mlle. Wanda de, 479
Boot, Anselmus de, 40, 311, 331, 338, 343, 382, 455
Bordeaux, Austin de, 459
Borneo, 221, 297
Boston Museum of Fine Arts, 11, 12, 307
Bouchon-Brandely, G., 193, 195, 290
Bourbon, Duchess of, 348
Bouton, Louis, 291
Bouton pearls, 56, 57, 352.
See Button pearls
Bracelets, 474

Page 689

Brazil, 282
Breeding pearls, 296–298
Bremond, Gabriele, 411
Brhatsamhita of Varâhamihira, 334
Bridal presents, Pearls as, 170
Brinton, D. G., 494
Bristow, Samuel G., 494
British Honduras, 511
British Isles, 11, 159–168
British Museum, 11, 20, 67, 405, 414, 510
Brooch, 471
Broome, Australia, 205
Brown, Barnum, 511
Browning, Robert, 303
Bruce, Robert, 418
Brunswick, Duke of, 349, 399
Brydges, Sir Harford Jones, 459
Bubics, Bishop, 481
Buckhorn shell, 73
Buckingham, Duke of, 24
Buckland, F. T., 165
Budapest National Museum, 435
Buddha images, 288–289
Buddhabhaṭṭa, 310, 335, 378
Budé, Guillaume, 348
Bulawayo, South Africa, 513

Page 690

Bullhead shell, 73
Bunyan, John, 79
Burgundy family, 21, 431
Burkill, F. H., 136
Burma, 135
Bushell, Stephen W., 413
Bushnell, David I., 509
Butterfly shell, 73
Button manufacture, 72, 264, 269, 271
Button pearls, 352, 360, 470
Buttons, Link, 443
Buying pearls, 369
Byron, Lord, 403
Byssus, 66, 76
Byzantine coins, 15
Byzantium, 320

Cæsar, Julius, 10, 11, 159, 329, 449
Cæsarea, Syria, 406
Calcutta, 357
California, 280, 281
California, Gulf of, 69, 241–251, 294
Caligula, 9
Caliph Al-Mamun, 411
Cambridge, Mass., 490
Camden, William, 37, 160

Page 691

Canada, 281
Candarin, weight, 322
Caniapuscaw, Canada, 281
Carat, 321–329, 331, 333
Carborel, José, 242
Care of pearls, 394–395
Caribbean Sea, 225
Carl, Miss, 513
Carlotta, Empress of Mexico, 397, 476
Caroline Augusta, Empress, 474
Caroline, Queen, 29
Carpets embroidered with pearls, 411
Carthage, Tenn., 263, 276
Carupano, Venezuela, 234
Cassis madagascarensis, 351, 354
Castellani, Alexandro, 185
Castellani, Augusto, 468
Catharine de’ Medici, 24, 435, 453
Catharine of Russia, 184
Cavvadias, M. P., 405
Ceram, 221
Ceylon, 4, 29, 31, 45, 60, 81, 87, 99–128, 293, 343–347, 383
Ceylon Company of Pearl Fishers, 110, 125, 127
Chank, 78
Chardin, Jean, 94
Charente River, France, 171

Page 692

Charlemagne, 16, 472, 475
Charles I of England, 431, 456
Charles II of Spain, 452
Charles IV, Crown of, 416
Charles V, Buckle of, 24
Charles VI of France, 313
Charles the Bold, 21
Charles the Bold’s jewel, 450
Charlotte, Queen, 29
Chauveton, Urbain, 38, 232
Che-kiang, China, 288
Chesapeake Bay, 267
Chicago, Ill., 275, 499, 500
Chicot, 58, 353
Chillicothe, Ohio, 491, 500, 506
China, 4, 5, 19, 145–146, 285, 288, 302, 413
Chinese pearl ornaments, 413
Christ, 7, 304
Christie’s Auction House, 477–481
Chung-kwan-o, China, 290
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 468
Clam pearl. See Venus, 351, 486
Cleaning pearls, 375, 377, 378, 396
“Cleanness,” the poem, 21
Cleopatra, 10, 55, 314, 315, 407, 449
Clinch River, Tenn., 263

Page 693

Clinton, Tenn., 263, 276
Clodius, 315
Coche Island, Venezuela, 231, 233
Cockburn, Lady Augusta Anne, 479
Cocoanut pearls, 78, 351
Cofaciqui, 253, 254, 257, 267
Coins, ancient, 404, 450
Collar, Pearl, 444
Colombia, 233, 239, 282
Colombo, 357
Color of pearls, 60, 61, 97, 124, 166, 184, 221, 241, 261, 267, 273, 321,
351, 354, 359, 362, 467
Colorado River, 261
Columbus, Christopher, 23, 225, 226, 228, 321
Columbus, Diego, 229
Columbus, Ohio, 500
Commerce in pearls, 319–321
Commission des Instruments et Travaux, 326
Comparette, F. Louis, 408
Compiègne, France, 431
Composition of pearls, 52, 314
Comyn, Tomas de, 213
Conch pearls, 55, 77, 278, 279, 351, 361, 464
Conchiolin, 44, 51, 61
Cone-shaped pearls, 352
Congaree River, 492

Page 694

Connecticut, 266
Connemara, Ireland, 165
Constantinople, 15, 320
Conway River, Wales, 37, 160, 161, 168
Copenhagen, 476
Coque de perle, 59, 351
Coral, 412
Cordiner, James, 104, 116, 382
Cordoba, Maria Fernandez de, 433
Coronation orb, English, 418
Cortés, Hernando, 241
Corvinus, Cross of, 423
Cossack, Australia, 205, 466
Costa Rica, 239, 282
Coxe, Daniel, 258, 263
Cracks in pearls, 271, 321, 381
Crawfurd, John, 213
Cresson, H. T., 501
Crosses of pearls, 444
Crowfoot drag, 269
Crowns, 15, 24, 414–420, 455, 472–475
Crown jewels of France, 56, 461, 468–472
Crusades, 19, 320
Crystalline pearls, 54, 55, 351
Cubagua Island, Venezuela, 228, 229, 231, 233
Culin, Stewart, 414

Page 695

Cultching, 294
Culture pearls, 41, 75, 148, 288–293
Cumana, Venezuela, 228, 233, 234
Cumberland River, 263, 494
Cupid and Psyche, 307
Curtis, William E., 282
Cuzco, Cathedral of, 432
Cylindrical pearls, 56, 353
Czarina of Russia, Frontispiece
Czarina of Russia, Daughters of the, 442

Dahlak Islands, 142
Danube River, 18, 171, 177, 179
Dark Ages, 17, 21, 320, 421
Davenport, Charles B., 292
Davis, Edwin H., 485, 489, 498
Death of pearls, 397, 399
Debenham & Storr, 481
Dee River, Scotland, 164
Denmark, 179, 512
Dennis, James T., 6
Dennys, N. B., 297
Denton, Sherman F., 266
Depletion of pearl beds, 31, 106, 132, 148, 164, 169, 175, 180, 206, 233,
261, 277, 294
Dew-drop origin of pearls, 36–39, 60

Page 696

Diamonds, 21, 28, 29, 30, 79, 259, 321, 330, 334, 369, 371, 392, 403, 412,
439, 442
Diane de Poitiers, 436
Diaz, Carmen Romero Rubio de, 441
Diederichsen, 476
Diemerbroeck, 94
Dieseldorf, E. P., 511
Dieulafait, Louis, 337
Dinglinger, J. M., 475
Dipsas plicatus, 75, 146, 288
Distomum duplicatum, 42
margaritarum, 43
somateriæ, 43
Divers, Characteristics of, 91, 93, 113, 131, 134, 137, 143, 149, 194, 207,
217, 238, 246
Diving-bell, 239, 245, 247
Diving, Limit of, 93, 94–96, 195, 208, 219, 249
Diving, Method of, 92, 114, 128, 132, 138, 142, 146, 194, 201–203, 207,
219, 230, 236, 246, 249
Diving-stones, 92
Dixon washing machine, 123, 125
Dog-tooth pearls, 352, 360
Donnan, James, 93
Don River, Scotland, 163, 164
Doon River, Scotland, 163, 164
Double pearls, 57, 353
Dragon and pearl, 302
Dragsen, Alfred, 476

Page 697

Dredging for pearl-oysters, 115, 146, 218, 231, 234
Dreher, Julius D., 196
Dresden, Germany, 475
Drilling pearls, 378–385, 477, 492, 496
Drinking dissolved pearls, 314
Drop-shaped pearls, 352
Druggists’ pearls, 75
Dublin Museum, 424, 425
Dubois, Raphael, 43, 44, 55, 71
Dubosq, Augustus, 390
Dubosq, Henry, 390
Dubuque, Iowa, 510
Dudley, Lady, 479
Durand, L. E., 88
Dust-pearls, 56, 352, 445
Durability of pearls, 395–398
Dutch Indies, 202, 220
Dyeing pearls, 377

Earn River, Scotland, 164
Ear-piercing, 407
Earrings, 403, 404, 407–410, 444
East Africa, Fisheries of, 153–156
East African Pearl Company, 154
East Indian pearl jewelry, 412
Ebert, Frank M., 267

Page 698

Ecclesiastical ornaments, 16, 17, 160, 421–424, 444
Echternacher Codex, 421
Ecuador, 282
Edgcumbe, Sir Robert, 153, 155
Edibility of pearl mollusks, 66, 171, 210, 250, 280, 494
Edward VI of England, 455
Edward VII of England, 438
Edward, the Black Prince, 417
Effigy mound, 502, 504, 505
Egbert, Archbishop of Treves, 421
Egg-shaped pearls, 56, 240, 352, 470
Egypt, Pearls in ancient, 6, 403 403–404
Eldorado explorers, 252
Elgin, Lord, 126
Eligius or St. Eloi, 16
Elizabeth of England, 24, 453, 454
Elizabeth of Russia, 182, 183
El Katif, 457
Elster River, Saxony, 173
Emanuel, Harry, 337, 340
Embedded pearls, 57, 353, 376
Emeralds, 330, 372, 412, 439
Emerson, Ralph Waldo, 145
Empress Dowager of China, 431 (plate)
Enriching a drink with pearls, 314
Entrecolles, F. X. de, 285, 286

Page 699

Eo, Wilhelmus, 348
Espiritŭ Santo Island, Mexico, 248, 293
Esterházy, Count Maurice, 434
Esterházy, Prince Nicholas, 434, 481
Esthonia, Russia, 182, 183
Etowah River, Georgia, 267
Eugénie, Empress, 30, 164, 260, 307, 355, 395, 471
Europe, Fisheries of, 168–185
European pearl-bearing mollusks, 75, 160, 164, 170, 184

Fabricius, Dionysius, 182
Fake pearls, 361
Falco, Alphonse, 468
Farsan Islands, Red Sea, 142
Fashion for pearls, 21, 30, 31, 329, 354, 439, 440
Ferbecq, 475
Ferguson, A. M., 117
Ferranz, Ivens, 153
Fertility of pearl mollusks, 67, 74
Feuchtwanger, Lewis, 336
Fever, Pearl hunting, 276
Fewkes, J. Walter, 510
Field Museum of Natural History, 499, 501, 503
Filippi, Filippo de, 42
Findhorn River, Scotland, 164
Finland, Russia, 182, 183, 290

Page 700

Finot, Louis, 334
Fishermen, Characteristics of, 91, 268, 275.
See Divers.
Fishermen, Total number of, 80
Fishing boats, 112, 113, 136, 141
Flavor of pearls, 313, 315
Flint River, Georgia, 268
Florence, Italy, 24, 407
Florida, 257, 262, 268, 278, 493
Foix, Françoise de, 436
Fontaneda, Hernando, 256, 257
Forms of pearls, 55–60, 351–354
France, 17, 169–171
Francis I of France, 468
Frederick, Cæsar, 101
Frederick III of Germany, 438
French crown jewels, 56, 461, 468–472
Fresh-water pearls, 16, 18, 30, 72–75, 146, 159–185, 252–282, 351, 359
Froehner, 12
Fugger, J. J., 450
Fukura, Japan, 293
Funeral rites, use of pearls, 133

Gabrielle d’Estrées, 436
Gambier Islands, 190, 192
Gann, Thomas, 511

Page 701

Garde-Meuble, Paris, 461
Garner, Robert, 43
Garrard & Co., 464
Gemelli-Careri, 238
Gemmen Münzen Cabinet, 12
General Pearl and Coral-Fishing Association of London, 245
Genoa, Italy, 24, 320
Gentleman of Elvas, 253
Georgia, 267, 492, 495
German East Africa, 154
German Federation of Jewelers, 326
German ornaments, Antique, 421–422
Germany, 171–178, 294
Giant clam, 53, 76, 144, 296
Giard, Alfred, 43
Gieger, Malachias, 312
Gillman, H. W., 346
Gimma, Giacinto, 213
Gironde River, 171
Glyptothek, Munich, 407
Godron, D. A., 169
Goethe, 305
Gogibus pearl, 350, 461
Gollancz, 20
Gomara, Francisco Lopez de, 226, 235, 451, 455
Gonzalez, President, 247

Page 702

Goode, John Mason, 94
Gordon-Lennox, Lady Henry, 481
Gould, Mrs. George J., 480 (plate)
Grain, Pearl, 322–327, 330–334
Gran, Cathedral of, 422
Grass River, N. Y., 266
Graves, Aboriginal, 253, 485–512
Great pearls of history, 481, 482
Greece, 8, 11, 307, 405, 409
Greene, Robert, 253
Greenland, 179
Gresham, Sir Thomas, 314, 454
Grimshaw, Beatrice, 197
Grüne Gewölbe, 59, 175, 475
Guadeloupe, Church of, 452
Guatemala, 511
Guidius, Joannes, 28
Guillaume, M., 325

Hafiz, 47
Hale, Edward E., 241
Half-pearl making, 392, 394
Half-pearls, 354, 364, 444
Half-pearls, values, 340–341
Haliotidæ, 78
Haliotis gigantea, 148

Page 703

Hammer pearls, 353
Hampton Court, 22
Hanover, Germany, 176
Hapsburg family, 23
Hardy, R. W. H., 245
Hariot, Thomas, 257, 488
Harley, Geo., 54, 396
Harness, John M., 506
Harness mound, 491, 496, 500, 506–509
Harpeth River, Tenn., 494
Harris, Israel H., 261
Haupt, Paul, 6
Hawkins, Sir Richard, 38
Haystack pearls, 56, 353, 360
Healing qualities of pearls, 314
Hebrew literature, 6, 7
Hedenberg, Frederick, 290
Heikow, Lake of, Manchuria, 147
Heirlooms, 434, 477, 479
Hennepin, Father Louis, 495
Henry V, 417, 454
Henry VIII, 22, 431, 451
Heraldic significance, 437
Herculaneum, pearls from, 409
Herdman, W. A., 45, 46, 155, 287, 290
Hermitage, St. Petersburg, 11, 410, 415

Page 704

Herrick, Robert, 285
Herrmann, Richard, 509
Hesse, 177
Hessling, Theodore von, 52, 172, 176, 181
Hiller, Henry W., 462
Hindus, 4, 301, 307, 309, 347, 350, 382
Hinge pearls, 59, 352
Hispano-American Museum, 432
Holbein, Hans, 22
Holberg, 179
Holland, Philemon, 314
Holy Roman Empire, 472, 475
Home, Sir Everard, 42
Homer, 8
Hope pearls, 59, 463–464
Hope, Henry Philip, 463
Hopewell mounds, 490, 500–505
Hopewell, M. C., 501
Hornell, James, 45, 117, 127
Horsehair threads, 391
Hôtel de Tiraz, Palermo, 475
Hôtel Drouot, 477–479
Howe, Sir Everhard, 42
Howell, David, 259, 260
Howie, W. Forbes, 425
Humbert, Mme., 478

Page 705

Humboldt, Alexander von, 23, 233
Hungary, Pearls in, 179, 422, 423, 434, 481
Hunt & Roskell, 465
Hunyadi, Count Joseph, 434
Hussock, Eugene, 282

Iberville, Pierre, 258
Ibn Batuta, 86, 94
Ibo Archipelago, 153, 155
Iciaha, 255, 259
Idaho, 492
Idar, Germany, 392
Ille River, 170
Illinois, 270, 274, 276, 509
Illinois River, 264
Ilz River, Bavaria, 172
Imam of Muscat, 457, 464
Imitation pearls, 29, 61, 279, 286, 361, 376, 382, 403, 445, 490, 497
India, 3, 18, 128–133, 293, 309, 343–347, 354, 385
Indiana, 276
Indications of pearls, 71, 74, 165
Ingram, David, 256
Inspection of reefs, 108, 130, 155, 174
International Committee of Weights and Measures, 326
Inventories of jewels, 425–431, 469, 470, 472
Investments in pearls, 456

Page 706

Iowa, 276, 291
Ireland, 17, 162, 165
Irregular pearls, Value of, 342
Isabella, Clara Eugenia, 436
Isabella, Queen, 453
Isar River, Bavaria, 172
Isidorus of Charace, 85
Isla River, 163, 164

Jackson, A. V. Williams, 3, 5
Jackson, Lowis d’A., 323, 347
Jade, 412
Jahn, J. G., 173
Jameson, H. L., 43, 44, 67
Japan, 70, 147, 292, 296, 302, 309
Japanese divers, 137, 207, 208
Jeffries, David, 331, 338
Jesuits, 242, 244, 251, 258
Jiddah, Arabia, 140, 142
Jolo, Philippine Islands, 218
Jones, Charles C., 485, 493, 495
Jones, F. Alfred, 431
Jones, Joseph, 493, 497
Jones, William S., 493
Jordanus, Friar, 100
Joseph, Archduke, 434

Page 707

Josephine, Empress, 170
Jouchanan ibn Massouiah, 95
Juan, Griego, Venezuela, 234
Julia, daughter of Titus, 407
Juppel River, Prussia, 176
Justinian the Great, 450

Kaempfer, Engelbert, 147, 296
Kalidasa, 4
Karachi, India, 133
Károly, Countess Alois, 434
Kawall, H., 182
Kelaart, E. F., 43, 127
Kelly, James W. S., 466
Kentucky, 262
Khayat, Azeez, 406
Khusrau crown, 411, 414
Kimmerly, 297
King of the Mound-Builders, 504
Knolles, Richard, 455
Kohl, Johann Georg, 184, 463
Koran, 7
Kosseir, Arabia, 142
Kremlin, Moscow, 417, 424
Krishna, 4, 306
Küchenmeister, F., 43

Page 708

Kunstgewerbe Museum, Berlin, 421, 422
Kunz, George F., 328, 527, 528

Labrador, 281
La Bruyère, Jean de, 169
La Crosse, Wisconsin, 295
Laminæ of pearls, 53, 54
Lamnitz River, Bavaria, 171
Lampsilis, 73
alatus, 73
La Paz, Mexico, 245, 248, 251
La Pellegrina, 461–463
La Peregrina, 452, 462
Laplanders, 184
La Régente, 56, 461, 471
La Reine des Perles, 461, 469
La Salle, Robert, 505
Lea, Isaac, 290
Lead poisoning, 394
Learning, E. B., 438
Lease of pearl beds, 125–127, 135, 246, 247
Leavenworth, Indiana, 276
Le Bec, Henry, 94, 104
Lefevre and Curtis, 295
Lehigh River, Penn., 259
Leiner, Otto, 512

Page 709

Levin and Melville, Earl of, 453
Lewis-Hill, Mrs., 480
License to fishermen, 204, 217, 233, 240, 282
Lima, Cathedral of, 432
Lingah shell, 68, 98, 99, 141
Linnæus, 41, 181, 286, 288
Linnean Society of London, 286
Linschoten, J. H. van, 86, 101
Lister and Mandel, Norway, 180
Lister, Martin, 170
Litchfield County, Conn., 266
Little Miami River, Ohio, 261, 262
Livonia, Russia, 182
Lobkowitz, Count Moritz, 433
Loch Dochert, Scotland, 163
Lollia Paulina, 406
London, 358, 477
London Society of Arts, 288
Longevity of pearls, 79, 473, 478
Loreto, Mexico, 245, 251
Lorraine, Dukes of, 428, 429
Lorraine, Germany, 169, 170
Louvre Museum, Paris, 5, 11, 59, 398, 403–405, 408, 430, 437, 454, 465
Love for pearls, 7, 9, 184, 304, 347, 463, 510
Lovell, Robert, 312
Lower California, 241, 247

Page 710

Lower California Pearl Fishing Company, 247
Lüneburg, Germany, 176
Luster of pearls, 51, 52, 78, 293
Lyell, Sir Charles, 511

Maabar, King of, 412
Macassar, 70, 221
McEvers mound, 509
Macgowan, D. T., 288
MacGregor, David, 165
McGregor, Iowa, 272, 276
Madras, 129–130, 354, 357
Mahavansa, 4
Maine, 265
Malabar fisheries, 132
Malay Archipelago, 30, 67, 70, 201, 212–221, 296
Malcolm, Sir John, 89
Manama, Persian Gulf, 90
Manar, Gulf of, 65, 67, 99–131
Manchuria, 146, 147
Manila, 70, 221
Mani-Málá, 310
Manlius, 9
Mannheim Natural History Society, 177
Manta, Ecuador, 282
Maple-leaf shell, 73

Page 711

Marbach, Austria, 179
Marbodus, Bishop of Rennes, 160
Margaret, 305
Margaret, Pearl of Bohemia, 305
Margaret Tudor, Queen, 308
Margaret, wife of James III, 22
Margarita, wife of Philip III, 432, 452
Margarita Island, Venezuela, 229, 233, 457
Margaritarii, 320
Margaritiferæ, 67, 351
Margaritifera, 296
carcharium, 70, 200
margaritifera, 68, 155, 164, 184, 190, 200, 214, 221, 425
cumingi, 44, 69
erythræensis, 69, 140
mazatlanica, 69, 248
persica, 69
martensi, 70, 148, 292
maxima, 70, 133, 200, 214, 221
panasisæ, 148
radiata, 70, 234
vinesi, 248
vulgaris, 44, 67, 68, 98, 134, 155
Margherita, Queen of Italy, 438, 442
Marguerite of Flanders, 426
Marguerite of France, 381
Maria Loretto, Prague, 423
Maria Louise, Empress of France, 461
Maria de’ Medici, 24, 308
Maria Theresa, 24 (plate), 179, 395, 473

Page 712

Marichchikadde, Ceylon, 109
Marketing pearls, 349–351, 356–362
Marlborough, Duchess of, 465
Marquesas Islands, 189
Marriott mound, 498
Martial, 10
Martin, Daniel S., 492
Martyr, Peter, 38
Mary Stuart, 24, 453
Maryland, 267, 489
Massachusetts, 265
Massey-Mainwaring collection, 480
Massoudi, 86
Massowah, Egypt, 142
Matched pearls, 349
Matheson, Lady, 478
Maturity of Unios, 74
Maurus, Rabanus, 304
Medici, Lorenzo de, 313
Medicinal use of pearls, 18, 133, 308–314, 351, 360
Mediterranean Sea, 67, 185, 293
Megasthenes, 11, 85
Melbourne, Australia, Chamber of Commerce, 327
Meleagrina margaritifera, 204, 205
Melville Island, 190
Meredith, Owen, 306

Page 713

Mergui Archipelago, 70, 133–139, 221
Metric carat, 325–327
Metropolitan Museum of Art, 11, 405
Metz, Charles L., 498
Mexico, 23, 29, 30, 60, 69, 241–252, 433, 476
Miami Valley, 489
Middendorf, Alexander von, 184
Mikimoto, Kokichi, 292, 293
Milan, Cathedral of, 17
Miller, Hugh, 167
Mills, William C., 491, 496, 500, 506
Milman, Hugh, 206, 211
Milton, John, 87, 189, 307
Mingti, Emperor of China, 145
Missals, Decoration of, 16, 17
Mississippi clams, 72–74
Mississippi River, 258, 264, 271, 272, 273, 359
Mississippi Valley, 30, 252, 262
Missouri Historical Society, 509
Mitsukuri, K., 292
Möbius, Karl, 43, 176, 178
Mogeaud, Gaston, 398
Mogul, Great, 457
Moldau River, Austria, 178, 179
Mongareva, 192
Monster pearls, 353

Page 714

Montana, 512
Monte de Piedad, 476
Monterey, Cal., 280
Montpensier, Comte de, 425
Montpensier, Duchesse de, 437
Montrose, Duchess of, 478
Moore, Clarence B., 485, 492
Moore, Thomas, 37, 241
Moore, W. H., Pearl of, 482
Moorehead, Warren K., 485, 490, 499–507
Moosehead Lake, Maine, 265
Morales, Gaspar de, 236
Moravians, 259
More, Sir Thomas, 22
Mörenhout, 192
Morgan, J. de, 403, 405
Morgan, J. Pierpont, 17
Morgan-Tiffany Collection, 266, 467
Moro Province, 215
Moscow, 461, 463
Moscow Pearl, 1840, 463
Mother-of-pearl, 6, 53, 69, 70, 80, 198, 201, 220, 238, 245
Moulins, Cathedral of, 435
Mound pearls, 485–511
Moundville, Ala., 493
Mulege, Mexico, 243, 245, 251

Page 715

Müller, Sophus, 512
Munshi, Kadir, 51
Murad I, 421
Muscat, Arabia, 156
Muscatine, Iowa, 271, 276
Musée de l’Hôtel de Cluny, 16, 415
Mya margaritifera, 287
Mystic River, Conn., 266
Mystical properties, 301–308
Mytilidæ, 75
Mytilus crasitesta, 148
edulis, 43, 44, 160, 168
smaragdinus, 131

Nacre, 51, 53, 54, 66, 70, 288, 289
Nadenäs, Norway, 180
Naldi, Pio, 331, 338, 342, 343
Nao-ratna, 412
Naples Museum, 409
Napoleon I, 469
Napoleon III, 461, 470
Narahari, 78, 308
Narvaez, Pánfilo, de, 256
Nassau, Bahamas, 279
Nautilus, 59, 351
Nautilus pompilius, 78, 214, 354
Nawanagar, India, 132

Page 716

Nearchus, 85
Necklace, Accumulating a, 442
Necklaces, Method of valuing, 331–333
Necklace, pearl, 273, 362, 365, 386–388, 404, 439, 443, 471, 473, 478, 480
Neisse River, Russia, 176
Nero, 9
Nesbit, Alexander, 17
New Brunswick, Canada, 281
New Cadiz, Venezuela, 229
New Caledonia, 189, 193, 194
New Guinea, 67
New Jersey, 259, 261, 290
Newport, Arkansas, 276
New York City, 260, 262
New York State, 266
Niggerhead shell, 72
Nigger hunting, 201
Nineveh Obelisk, 6
Nino, Pedro Alonso, 228
Nishikawa, T., 293, 309, 414
Nith River, Scotland, 164
Nitsche, Hinrich, 173, 174 175
Nonesuch Pond, Mass., 265
Nordica, Mme., 468, 476 (plate)
Nordica pearl, 468
North Carolina, 298

Page 717

Norway, 180
Nose rings, 443
Notch Brook, N. J., 259, 260
Notice of fishery, 108, 110, 111, 130
Nova Scotia, Canada, 281
Nuclei of pearls, 41, 52, 55, 58, 60, 288, 289, 380
Nuggets, 353
Nuremberg, 320, 348
Nuttal, Mme. Zélie, 433

Oberstein, Germany, 393
Ocklocknee River, Fla., 268
Ocmulgee River, Ga., 268
Oconee River, Ga., 268, 495
Oder River, Prussia, 175
Odet River, France, 170
Oelsnitz River, Bavaria, 171
Ogeechee River, Ga., 495
Ohio, 261, 489
Ohio Archæological and Historical Society, 490, 506–508
Ohio River, 264
Okeechobee Lake, Fla., 494
Olonetz, Russia, 182, 183
Oman Coast, Arabia, 142
Omura, Gulf of, 147
Oostanaula River, Ga., 267

Page 718

Opening pearl mollusks, 122, 139, 198, 209, 250, 255, 271, 273
Oppert, Jules, 85
Order of Christ, 439
Order of Crown of India, 439
Oregonia, Ohio, 497
Oriental collections of pearls, 355–357
Oriental pearls, 351, 359
Orient or luster, cause of, 53, 54
Origen 159
Origin of pearls, 35–48
Ormus, Island of, 86, 87, 457
Ortega, Iturbide, 242
Osio, Manuel, 242
Ostrea, 53, 66, 351, 467
edulis, 77
virginica, 77, 488
Ottoman crown jewels, 421
Ounce-pearls, 360
Ourejenaya Palata, Moscow, 17
Oviedo y Valdes, 229, 237, 451, 455
Oyster, edible, 77
Oyster pearls, 351

Palermo, 475
Palgrave, W. G., 90
Panama, 23, 56, 60, 69, 235–241, 451, 452
Pancake shell, 73

Page 719

Panciroli, 450
Papeiti, 189, 198
Papers of pearls, 358, 360, 361, 386
Paphos pin, 405
Paragon pearls, 56, 352
Parasitic formation of pearls, 42–46, 295
Parasitic stage of Unios, 73, 295
Paris, 358, 477
Paris, Académie des Sciences, 291
Passau, Bavaria, 172, 179
Peabody Museum of Archæology, 486, 490
Peacock Throne, 458
Pearl blisters, 389, 390
Pearl-caps, 184, 185
Pearl carpet of Baroda, 460
Pearl cloth, 445
Pearl coast, 231
Pearl collar, 388
Pearl-culture, 177, 285–296
Pearl, derivation of word, 19, 20
Pearl drills, 380, 383, 385, 394
Pearl-dust, 380
Pearl forms, 295
Pearl-grading, 343–347
Pearl Islands, Panama, 239
Pearl mesh, 445

Page 720

Pearl monstrance, 424
Pearl of Great Price, 7
Pearl River, N. Y., 266
“Pearl,” the poem, 20, 51
Pearls, Annual product of, 79, 80
Pearls as investments, 350, 355
Pearls as tears, 307
Pearls as wedding gifts, 306–307
Pearls, Bibliography of, 517–538
Pearls, Qualities of perfection in, 321, 336, 344, 370–372
Pearly nautilus, 78
Pear-shaped pearls, 56, 349, 352, 382, 456, 470
Pecatonica River, Wisconsin, 262
Pecten yezocusis, 148
Pedrarias, 236
Peelers, 353
Peeling pearls, 58, 375–377
Pegging pearls, 388
Pelly, Sir Lewis, 88
Penang, 221
Pendants, 404, 442, 474
Pennant, Thomas, 163
Pennsylvania, 259, 261, 266
Penrhyn, 189, 193
Perazolli, A., 143
Percival, Robert, 94, 104

Page 721

Periplus of the Erythræan, 100
Perlbach River, Bavaria, 171
Perle dolce, 343
Perna, 155
Peroz Pearl, 450
Persia, 5, 31, 85–99, 404
Persian Gulf, 65, 67, 85–99
Perthshire, Scotland, 165, 166
Peru, 238
Peruvian aristocracy, 433
Petal pearls, 352, 360
Petrie, George, 425
Petrie, William F., 403
Phenicians, 319
Philip II of Spain, 431, 451, 452
Philip IV of Spain, 350
Philippine Commission, 217
Philippine Islands, 213, 217
Philo, 9
Philostratos, 285
Pickett, Albert H., 492
Piebald pearls, 60
Piercing pearls, 350.
See Drilling pearls.
Pigeons, 169
Pigopitta, 213

Page 722

Pinna nobilis, 155
Pinna pearls, 55, 75, 351
squamosa, 355
Pirate coast, 88, 89, 91
Pirningerbach, Austria, 179
Pisa, 24
Placuna pearls, 296, 310, 311, 351
Placuna placenta, 45, 76, 127, 132, 148, 221, 355
Plagiola securis, 73
Pleurobema œsopus, 73
Pliny, 3, 8, 9, 10, 11, 36, 38, 55, 85, 159, 314, 315, 406, 409, 449
Poland, 355
Polishing pearls, 377
Polo, Marco, 19, 100, 116, 310, 357, 411, 414
Pomaré, Queen, 192, 198
Pompeiian pearls, 409
Pompey, 9
Pooto, China, 289
Port Darwin, Australia, 205
Port Kennedy, Australia, 205
Porter group of mounds, 490, 498
Porter, Sir Robert Ker, 459
Portuguese East Africa, 156
Portuguese Order of Christ, 439
Pottier, M., 407
Powder pearls, 344, 345

Page 723

Powhatan, 486, 487
Prague, 416, 423, 434, 455
Prague, Association of Jewelers and Goldsmiths of, 327
Prairie du Chien, Wis., 262, 272, 275, 276
Prince Edward Island, Canada, 281
Procopius, 11, 450
Prussian regalia, 420
Ptolemy, 85
Putnam, F. W., 485, 490, 498
Puton, Ernest, 169

Quackenbush, Jacob, 260
Quadrula ebena, 72
heros, 74
plicata, 72
undulata, 72
wardi, 73
Quahog, 77
Quebec, Canada, 281
Queen Mary Pearl, 275
Queen Pearl, 260, 465
Queensland, Australia, 199, 206
Queiss River, Prussia, 176
Quelpaerd Island, 149

Ramayana, 4
Randell & Bridge, 417

Page 724

Ratnagiri, India, 132
Rau, Charles, 494
Rau, Sebaldus, 95
Rawlinson, Sir Henry, 6
Read, Charles Hercules, 405, 510
Réaumur, 40
Reccesvinthus, Crown of, 16, 415–416
Redding, Sir Robert, 162
Red Sea, 31, 67, 69, 139–144, 285
Reed River, Florida, 256, 257
Regalia, 418–420, 443, 460, 473
Regen River, Bavaria, 172
Regulation of fishery, 193, 197, 204, 211, 218, 277
Renaudot, 18
Reues, Francis, 169
Rhode Island, 259
Rhodesia Museum, 513
Ribeiro, Joano, 94
Richard II, 22
Rigveda, 4
Ring-a-round pearls, 56, 353
Rings with pearls, 438, 442
Robinson, Edward, 12, 405
Rock Island, Ill., 271
Rock River, 262, 274
Rogkerus. See Rugerus.

Page 725

Rome, Georgia, 267
Rome, Pearls in ancient, 8, 9, 12, 320, 406–410
Rondelet, Gulielm, 40
Rosales, Manuel Laudecta, 233
Rosaries, 413
Rosenberg Palace, Copenhagen, 59, 476
Rosengarten Museum, Constance, 512
Rosnel, Pierre de, 306, 338
Rotschildt, Don A. de, 437
Round pearls, 352, 470
Royal fifth, 243, 244
Rubies, 79, 330, 371, 392, 412, 417, 439
Rückert, Friedrich, 35
Rudolph II, 24, 455, 473
Rugerus, 381, 423
Rundell, Bridge & Rundell, 233
Rupprecht, Prince, 302
Russia, 463
Russian Jewesses, 184
Russian Treasury at Moscow, 414
Rymsdyck, J. & A. van, 342, 371

Saddle decorations, 360, 444
Sadi, Shaikh, 37
Safe-guarding pearls, 357, 399, 400
Sahayun, Bernadino de, 433

Page 726

St. Augustine, 304
St. Barbara, 435
St. Denis, Paris, 425, 429, 430
St. Domingo, Lima, 432
St. Edward’s crown, 418
St. Francis River, Ark., 263, 264
St. Francisville, Ill., 276
St. Jerome, 10
St. Ludmilla, 417
St. Margaret Ætheling, 305
St. Margaret of Antioch, 305
St. Petersburg, 462
St. Stephen’s crown, 416
Sainte-Chapelle, Paris, 425, 427
Sales of pearls, 477–481
Salisbury, England, 490
Sand shells, 73
Sandius, Christopher, 39
San José Island, Mexico, 248
San José Island, Panama, 239
San Miguel, Panama, 239
San Vitale, Ravenna, 15
Sanskrit literature, 4, 36
Santa Barbara, Cal., 280, 281
Santo Domingo, Mexico, 434
Santos, João dos, 153

Page 727

Sapphire, 371, 412, 439
Satsuma, Japan, 147
Saumaise, Claude de, 9
Savannah River, 253, 452, 493, 495
Saville, H. M., 282
Saxony, Fisheries of, 173–175
Scaphander, 137, 171, 196, 203, 234, 240, 247, 282
Scarf-pins, 443
Schärding, Austria, 179
Scharff, R. F., 425
Schleswig-Holstein, 178
Schmerler family, 174, 177, 178
Schulz, Aurel, 154
Schuylkill River, Penn., 266, 267
Schwarzbach River, Russia, 183
Schwarzenberg, Count, 178, 434
Schwarzenberg family, 178
Schwesnitz River, Bavaria, 171
Scioto River, Ohio, 491, 506
Scioto Valley, Ohio, 489
Scotch pearls, 17, 160–164, 167, 319, 343, 427, 464
Scotland, 17, 160–167
Scott, Sir Walter, 35, 305, 419
Scriptural references, 6, 7, 449
Season, Fishery, 89, 109, 114, 141, 206, 240, 246, 250, 271, 277
Seed-pearls, 18, 56, 124, 221, 273, 309, 337, 342, 352, 391

Page 728

Seed-pearl jewelry, 390–392
Selangs, 134, 139
Selling pearls, 276, 356, 361
Seneca, 10
Sermonata, Duchess of, 439
Servia, 304
Servilia pearl, 10, 449
Setting pearls, 384, 388, 389, 393
Seugne River, France, 171
Seurat, L. G., 44
Seven Sisters of Sleep, 310
Shabl Abdullah, 306
Shah Jehan, 458
Shah’s pearls in 1820, 459
Shah’s tippet, 459
Shakspere, 35, 122, 314, 319
Shark-charmers, 115, 116
Sharks, 117, 138, 144, 208, 249
Shark’s Bay, Australia, 57, 60, 70, 200, 211, 468
Shelley, P. B., 212, 278
Shell-heaps, 492
Shells, Commercial varieties, 69, 70, 72, 73, 124, 141, 143, 221
Shells, Product of, 80, 99
Shells, Sweet-water, 264
Shepaug River, Conn., 266
Shrine of St. Patrick’s Gospels, 424

Page 729

Shuangtze, 302
Shu King, 5
Siam, Gulf of, 149
Siamese decoration, 439
Sibbald, Robert, 161
Siberia, Fisheries of, 147
Sieves (peddi) for pearls, 344
Silesia, Germany, 175
Silk threads for pearls, 387
Silva-Tierra, Father, 242
Simmonds, Vane, 291
Simpson, James J., 155
Sinaloa, Mexico, 244, 248
Singapore, 135, 149, 220
Size of pearls, 328, 344
Slaney River, Ireland, 162
Slugs, 272, 275, 352, 360
Smith, Captain John, 486
Smith, Charles Roach, 414
Smith, Harlan I., 492
Smith, Sir J. E., 287
Smithsonian Institution, 490
Smithville, Tenn., 263, 276
Snail shell, 139, 148
Snyder, J. F., 509
Sofala, Africa, 106, 153

Page 730

Sokotra Islands, 142
Solomon, 301
Solubility of pearls, 55
Sonnapore mussels, 132
Sonora, Mexico, 241, 244, 245, 248, 251
Sorting pearls, 385
Soto, Hernando de, 253, 255, 452
Sources of pearls, 65–81
Sourindro Mohun Tagore, 309
South America, 65, 282
South Carolina, 492
Southern Cross, 57, 466, 467
South Kensington Museum, 464
South Sea Islands, 29, 30, 189–198
Spain, 327, 355
Spanish crown jewels, 452
Spanish jewelry, 432
Specific gravity of pearls, 52
Spenser, Edmund, 161
Spey River, Scotland, 164
Spherical pearls, 55, 56
Springs, Fresh-water, 96
Squier, E. George, 485, 489, 490
Stang-Alla River, France, 170
Statistics of fisheries, 80, 88, 91, 98, 100, 103, 105, 126, 136, 143, 246
Stavanger, Norway, 180

Page 731

Stearns, Frederick E., 279
Steever, E. Z., 468
Steinbach River, Germany, 177
Steir River, France, 170
Stilicho pearls, 12
Stock-book for pearls, 324
Stoddard, C. W., 194
Strachey, William, 487, 488
Strawberry pearls, 56, 353
Streeter, E. W., 214, 349, 390, 465
Stringing pearls, 386–388
Strombus gigas, 77, 278, 351
Strozzi, Philip, 436
Structure of pearls, 51–55
Stupefying mollusks, 292
Suakin, Egypt, 140
Sudbury River, Mass., 265
Suetonius, 10, 159
Sugar River, Wisconsin, 262
Sultan of Sulu, 215, 217, 220, 350, 468
Sulu Archipelago, 70, 213, 214–220, 350, 468
Sumptuary laws, 10, 25–28
Susa necklace, 386, 404, 405
Sweden, 180, 286, 290
Sweetness of pearls, 305
Sydney, Australia, 201

Page 732

Sydney shell, 70
Symphynota complanata, 73
Syracusan coins, 409
Syria, Pearls in ancient, 386, 406
Syrian pearl merchants, 357

Tabari, 411, 415
Tablegram Lake, Ceylon, 127
Tacitus, 159
Tahiti, 189, 190, 196, 290
Talmud, 7
Talomeco, Temple of, 254, 452
Taoists, 302
Tararequi pearls, 236, 451
Tariff on pearls, 362–369
Tasso, Torquato, 153
Taunton, Henry, 58, 202, 466
Tavernier, J. B., 56, 60, 87, 97, 147, 172, 331, 412, 456
Tavernier pearls, 456–458
Taylor mound, 497
Tay River, Scotland, 163, 164
Tears, Pearls as, 35, 307–308
Teheran, Persia, 458, 459
Teifashi, Ahmad ibn, 335
Teith River, Scotland, 164
Teixeira, Pedro, 40, 103, 242

Page 733

Temple of Talomeco, 254, 452
Tennessee, 262, 263, 276, 494
Tennessee River, 263, 494
Tennyson, Alfred, 305
Terron, Juan, 255
Texas, 261, 262
Theft of pearls, 118, 123, 210, 232
Theodora, Mosaic of, 15
Theophrastus, 8, 405
Thiers necklace, 398, 465
Three-ridge shells, 72
Thursday Island, 205, 207
Thurston, Edgar, 131
Tiana, Captain, 216
Tiaras, 443
Tiffany & Co., 394
Tiffany, Charles L., 260, 276, 350
Tiffany Queen Pearl, 260, 465
Tomaco, 235
Tonti, 505
Top-shaped pearls, 352
Torres Straits, 199, 201, 210, 211
Transylvania, 432
Treves, Cathedral of, 422
Tridacna gigas, 53, 76, 144, 296
Triptych, 433

Page 734

Tritigonia verrucosa, 73
Troiza Monastery, Moscow, 424
Tuamotu Islands, 29, 189, 190, 196, 198, 294
Turbinella rapa, 78
Turbo marmoratus, 139
Turner group of mounds, 490, 499
Turtleback pearls, 56, 353, 360
Tuticorin, India, 128, 130
Twynam, Sir William, 117
Tyszkiewicz statuette, 12

Uelzen, Germany, 176
Uffizi, Florence, 12, 407, 436
Uhler, P. R., 489
Ulloa, Antonio de, 238
Ulmann, H., 512
Ungava, Canada, 281
Unio complanata, 73, 265
dahuricus, 75, 146
littoralis, 511
margaritifera, 513
mongolicus, 75, 146
sinuatus, 170
verreauxi, 513
virginianus, 494
Unionidæ, 72, 351
Unios, 59, 72–74, 259, 261, 268, 272, 290, 291, 294
United States, 252–278, 291

Page 735

United States National Museum, 290, 494
University of Moscow, 59
Unripe pearls, 61
Urim and Thummim, 412
Uzaramo, Africa, 154

Vaca, Cabeza de, 256
Values of pearls, 273, 274, 275, 279, 281, 282, 329–349, 350, 361, 470, 474
method of computing, 331–335, 346–348
Van Buren pearls, 464
Van Dort, K., 149
Vatican, 407
Vaughan, Rice, 338
Vedas, 3, 4, 301
Veerapandianpatanam, 130
Vega, Garcilasso de la, 253, 254, 452
Venezuela, 23, 31, 38, 70, 225–235, 354, 457
Venice, 24, 25–27, 320, 348
Venus, 306, 467
Venus de Medici, 407
Venus de Milo, 408
Venus Genetrix, 159, 407
Venus mercenaria, 77, 488
Venus of the Pantheon, 407, 449
Venus, Statues of, 10, 11
Venus, Temple of, 9

Page 736

Vermont, 262
Vernatti, Sir Philiberto, 94
Verrazano, Juan, 256
Victor Emanuel II, 468
Victoria, Association of Manufacturing Jewelers of the Colony of, 327
Victoria crown, 417
Victoria, Princess, 438
Victoria, Queen, 163, 167, 425
Vienna, 395, 472
Vilshofen, Finland, 290
Vils River, Bavaria, 171
Vincennes, Indiana, 276
Vinegar, 315
Virgin pearls, 308
Virginia, 486, 488, 489
Vitellius, 10
Vladimir crown, 417
Vogtland, Saxony, 173
Volga River, Russia, 181
Vologne River, France, 169, 170
Von Middendorf, 184
Vosges mountains, 169

Wabash River, 264, 265
Waddesden collection, 59
Wahibis of Pirate Coast, 89

Page 737

Waistcoat buttons, 443
Waizkirchen, 179
Waldheim, G. Fischer de, 461
Walk, How Unios, 74
Walpole, Horace, 454
Walters, Henry, 394
Washington, George, 438
Washington, State of, 262
Water-telescopes, 141, 194, 268, 278
Waynesville, Ohio, 261
Webster, John, 307
Wedding gifts of pearls, 476
Weighing pearls, 321–329, 346
Weights of pearls, 56, 251, 327, 330, 481, 482
Welker, Landreth, 177
Wellsted, J. R., 88, 93, 142
Wenkheim, Countess, 434
West Indies, 278
Westminster Abbey, 454
White Cart River, Scotland, 161
White Main River, Germany, 176
White River, Arkansas, 263, 264
Whitfield, R. P., 512
Whittier, J. G., 252
Wijayo, King, 4
Willoughby, Charles C., 486, 488

Page 738

Window-glass shell, 76.
See Placuna.
Wing pearls, 352, 359
Wire threads for pearls, 388
Wisconsin, 262, 276
Wohlberedt, O., 173
Women as fishermen, 149, 155, 189, 264
Wordsworth, Wm., 305
World’s Columbian Exposition, 490, 500, 501
Worms, Parasitical, 43–45
Wottawa River, Austria, 178, 179
Wright, Marie Robinson, 511
Wyman, Jeffries, 493
Wynne, Sir Richard, 161

Xavier, St. Francis, 131
X-ray examination, 71

Yaqui Indians, Mexico, 242, 243, 246
Yellow pearls, 97, 98, 212, 351, 354, 377, 468
Youssoupoff, Princess, 461, 462
Ythan River, Scotland, 164
Yucatan, 511
Yu Shun Yang, 290

Zanzibar, 156
Zonaras, 450

Page 739

Zozima pearl, 461, 462
Zwemer, S. M., 35

Page 740

1. See pp. 301, 302.

2. See Jacobi, “Das Ramayana,” Bonn, 1893.

3. Geiger, “Dipavansa und Mahavansa, die beiden Chroniken der Insel Ceylon,” Erlangen, 1901.

4. Legge, “The Shu King,” Oxford, 1879, pp. 67, 69.

5. See p. 404.

6. Rawlinson, “Cuneiform Inscriptions of Babylonia and Assyria,” London, 1850, p. 38.

7. Gen. R. xl. 6. This story also exists somewhat altered in Arabic literature; see Weill’s
“Biblical Legends of the Mussulmans,” New York, 1846.

8. Sale, “Preliminary Discourse to the Quran,” London, 1882, Vol. I, pp. 153–159.

9. Lib. XXIII, c. 6.

10. “Plinianæ Exercitationes in Solinum,” 1629, pp. 822–4.

11. “Historia naturalis,” Lib. IX, c. 59.

12. Ibid., Lib. XXXVII, c. 2.

13. Ibid., Lib. IX, c. 53.

14. Ibid., Lib. XXXIII, c. 3. Also Böttiger, “Sabina oder Morgenscenen,” Leipzig, 1803, Vol. I,
p. 158.

15. Martial, “Epigrammata,” VIII, 81.

16. Seneca, “De beneficiis,” Lib. VII, c. 9.

17. Pliny, “Historia naturalis,” Lib. IX, c. 35.

18. Equivalent to 1,875,000 ounces of silver, worth about $1,300,000 at the present time, but of
far greater value in Roman days.

19. “Divus Julius Cæsar,” c. 50.

20. “Dictionnaire des Antiquités Grecques et Romaines,” Paris, 1904, Vol. III, pp. 1595–6.

21. See p. 449.

22. Froehner, “La Collection Tyszkiewicz,” Munich, 1892.

23. See p. 415.

24. Renaudot, “Ancient Accounts of India and China by Two Mohammedan Travelers,” London,
1733, p. 98.

Page 741

25. “The Book of Ser Marco Polo,” London, 1871, Vol. II, p. 275.

26. Analogous to the uniform European word for this gem, is the extension of the Sanskrit form,
mukta, from Persia to the Sulu Islands. In Tamil, the word for pearl is mootthoo; in Hindustani, it is
mootie; in Cingalese, mootoo; and in Malay, mutya or mootara. (Ainslie, “Materia Indica,” London,
1826, Vol. I, pp. 292–297.)

27. Gollancz, “Pearl, an English Poem of the Fourteenth Century,” London, 1891.

28. Sachs, “Kaiserchronik,” Vol. IV, p. 261.

29. Staudenraus, “Chronik der Stadt Landshut,” 1832, Vol. I, p. 172.

30. Jones, “History and Mystery of Precious Stones,” London, 1880, p. 135.

31. Humboldt, “Personal Narrative of Travels to the New Continent,” London, 1822, Vol. II, p.
273.

32. See p. 473.

33. Yriarte, “Autour des Borgia,” Paris, 1891, pp. 136, 137.

34. See Yriarte, “Venice,” Paris, 1878, p. 236.

35. Ibid., pp. 252, 253.

36. Guidius, “De Mineralibus,” Frankfort, 1627, p. 74.

37. Ibid., p. 73.

38. Ibid., pp. 75–77.

39. Croker, “Lord Hervey’s Memoirs,” London, 1848, Vol. I, pp. 88, 89.

40. “The Naturall Historie of C. Plinius Secundus,” London, 1601, Book IX, ch. 35.

41. “Travels of Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela,” Gerrans’s edition, London, 1783, p. 23.

42. “Camden Britannia,” 2d edition, London, 1722, Vol. II, p. 801.

43. Ibid., Vol. II, p. 1003.

44. Richard Eden edition, London, 1577, 10th ch. of 3rd Decade, fol. 148a.

45. Hawkins, “Voyage to the South Sea in 1593,” London, 1847, p. 133.

46. Benzoni, “Novæ Novi Orbis Historiæ,” Geneva, 1578, pp. 161–163.

47. “Philosophical Transactions,” 1674, No. 101, p. 11.

48. Goldsmith, “History of the Earth and Animated Nature,” 1774, Vol. VI, p. 54.

49. Rondelet, “Universæ Aquitilium Historiæ Pars Altera,” Lugduni, 1554.

Page 742

50. “Gemmarum et Lapidum Historia,” Hanoviæ, 1609.

51. “The Travels of Pedro Teixeira,” Hakluyt Society, p. 180.

52. “Memoires de l’Académie des Sciences,” 1717, pp. 177–194.

53. Grill, in “Abhandlungen der Königlichen Schwed. Akademie der Wissenschaften,” Vol.
XXXIV, p. 88, 1772.

54. “Philosophical Transactions,” 1826, Pt. III, pp. 338–341.

55. “Sull’origine delle Perle. II Cimento, revista di Scienze,” Torino, 1852, Vol. I, pp. 429–439.

56. “Memorie della Reale Academia delle Scienze di Torino,” 1855, Vol. XV, pp. 331–358;
1857, Vol. XVI, pp. 419–442, and 1859, Vol. XVIII, pp. 201–232.

57. Müller’s “Archiv für Anatomie,” 1856, pp. 269–281.

58. “Die echten Perlen,” Hamburg, 1858. Dr. Möbius died in Berlin, on April 26, 1908. He was
born at Eilenburg, in Saxony, in 1825.

59. “Report on the Natural History of the Pearl Oyster of Ceylon,” Trincomali, 1859.

60. “Journal of the Linnean Society,” Vol. XI, pp. 426–428.

61. “Société de Biologie, Séance du 29 décembre, 1903.”

62. “Comptes Rendus de l’Académie des Sciences,” Vol. 133, pp. 603–605, Oct. 14, 1901.

63. “Proceedings of the Zoölogical Society of London,” Vol. I, pp. 140–166.

64. “Proceedings of the Zoölogical Society of London,” 1902, pp. 148–150.

65. “Comptes Rendus de l’Académie des Sciences,” Paris, 1903, Vol. CXXXVII, pp. 611–613.

66. Seurat, “Observation sur l’évolution de l’Huitre perlière des Tuamotu et des Gambier,”
1904.

67. “Pearl Oyster Fisheries of the Gulf of Manaar,” London, 1903, Vol. I, p. 11.

68. Hornell, “Report on the Placuna placenta Pearl Fishery of Lake Tampalakamam,” Colombo,
1906.

69. “Pearl Oyster Fisheries of the Gulf of Manaar,” London, 1903, Vol. I, p. 10.

70. Harley, “Proceedings of the Royal Society,” Vol. XLIII, p. 461.

71. “Die Perlenmuscheln,” Leipzig, 1859, pp. 294, 295.

72. Harley, “Proceedings of the Royal Society of London,” Vol. XLV, p. 612.

73. “Historia Naturalis,” Lib. IX, c. 35. This is also referred to by Macrobius in Saturnaliorum
conviviorum Lib. II, c. 13.

Page 743

74. Now in the French crown brooch in the possession of the Princess Youssoupoff of Russia.

75. See p. 465.

76. Taunton, “Australind,” London, 1903, p. 224.

77. “Tavernier’s Travels,” London, 1889, Vol. II, p. 115. See p. 97.

78. See “Report of the Royal Society,” Oct. 13, 1688.

79. Neither is there any special significance in the popular terms “clams,” “mussels,” etc., as
applied to the pearl-bearing species of the rivers. The “clams,” or Unios of the Mississippi Valley,
resemble neither the long clams (Mya) nor the round clams (Venus) of the Atlantic coast; the mussels
of the fresh-water lakes are quite distinct from the edible ones of brackish waters, and the Pinna
oyster and the giant clam (Tridacna) have little resemblance to the mollusks with which these
terminal names are commonly associated.

80. Jameson, “On the identity and distribution of the mother-of-pearl oysters; with a revision of
the subgenus Margaritifera.” Proceedings of the Zoölogical Society of London, Vol. L, 1901, pp.
372–394.

81. Vassel, “Sur la Pintadine du Golfe de Gabes, Comptes Rendus Assoc. Franç.,” 1896, pp.
458–466.

82. See “Comptes Rendus de l’Académie des Sciences,” Paris, 1904, Vol. CXXXVIII, pp. 301,
302.

83. See p. 288.

84. Garbe, “Die Indischen Mineralien,” Leipzig, 1882.

85. Gray’s Elegy.

86. In 1905, the Ceylon pearl yield approximated $2,000,000 in value.

87. Including African coast.

88. Including Sharks Bay.

89. Oppert, “L’Ambre jaune chez les Assyriens.”

90. Holland’s edition of 1601, p. 254.

91. Reinaud, “Mémoire sur l’Inde,” Paris. 1849

92. “Travels of Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela,” London, 1783.

93. Lee, “Ibn Batuta,” 1829, p. 65.

94. “The Travels of Lodovico di Barthema, 1503 to 1508,” London, 1863, p. 95.

95. “Discours of Voyages into ye Easte and West Indies,” London, 1598, folio, ch. 84.

Page 744

96. See p. 457, for Tavernier’s description of this gem.

97. Tavernier, “Travels in India,” London, 1889, Vol. II, p. 108.

98. Wellsted, “Travels in Arabia,” London, 1838, Vol. I, ch. 17, pp. 264, 265.

99. In report to the Government of Bombay, dated December 15, 1865.

100. Schlagintweit, “Nachrichtsblatt der deutschen Gesellschaft,” Frankfurt-am-Main, 1883, pp.
153–156.

101. Malcolm, “Sketches of Persia,” London, 1827, p. 27.

102. “Personal Narrative of Journey through Arabia,” London, 1865, p. 100.

103. Lord Curzon reports 4500 boats, and some other authorities state 5000, but this probably
includes a number of tenders.

104. For this and some other data on the pearling fleet of Bahrein we are indebted to the
kindness of Dr. S. M. Zwemer, who has spent many years at the Bahrein Islands as a missionary.

105. “Reports by the Superintendent of the Fishery and the Inspector of the Pearl Banks,”
Colombo, 1887.

106. Wellsted, “Travels in Arabia,” London, 1838, Vol. I, p. 266.

107. “Histoire de l’Isle de Ceylon,” Amsterdam, 1701, ch. 22, p. 169.

108. “An Account of the Island of Ceylon,” London, 1803, ch. 3, p. 91.

109. “Asiatic Researches,” London, 1798, Vol. V, p. 402.

110. Chardin, “Voyages en Perse,” Paris, 1811, Vol. III, p. 363.

111. Sprat, “History of the Royal Society,” London, 1667, p. 169.

112. Philosophical Transactions for 1669, No. 43, p. 863.

113. Diemerbroeck, “Anatome Corporis Humani,” Ultrajecti, 1672.

114. Sixth American Edition, New York, 1835, Vol. I, p. 239.

115. Reinaud, “Fragments Arabes,” Paris, 1845, p. 126. Lee, “Ibn Batuta,” London, 1829, p. 65.

116. A Christian physician who lived in the time of the Khalif Wathek Billa, about 842 A.D.

117. “Specimen Arabicum,” Traiecti ad Rhenum, 1784, p. 64.

118. Ibid., p. 65.

119. Writers describing the early pearl fisheries on the American coast, and especially at
Cubagua on the present coast of Venezuela, also reported very lengthy stays. In 1526, Gonzalo
Fernandez de Oviedo y Valdés wrote: “The thing that causeth men most to marvel is to consider how

Page 745

many of them can remain at the bottom for the space of one whole hour, and some more or less,
according to expertness.” (“Natural Historia de las Indias,” Toledo, 1526.) About 1588, the Jesuit
priest José de Acosta wrote: “I did see them make their fishing, the which is done with great charge
and labor of the poor slaves, which dive 6, 7, yea 12 fathoms into the sea...; but yet the labor and toil
is greatest in holding their breath, sometimes a quarter, yea, half an hour together under water.”
(Acosta, “Natural and Moral History of the Indies,” Hakluyt Society, 1880, p. 227.)

120. Tavernier, “Travels in India,” Ball edition, Vol. II, pp. 114, 115.

121. London, 1812, p. 55.

122. See infra., p. 125.

123. “The Book of Ser Marco Polo,” London, 1871, Vol. II, pp. 267, 268.

124. Jordanus, “Mirabilia Descripta,” Hakluyt Society, 1863, p. 28.

125. “The Voyage of John Huyghen van Linschoten to the East Indies,” Hakluyt Society, 1884,
Vol. II, pp. 133–135.

126. “Hakluyt’s Voyages,” Vol. V, Glasgow, 1904, pp. 395–397. Benjamin Franklin states that
the Mediterranean divers, finding the light below obscured by the surface waves, used to let a little
oil out of their mouths at intervals, which, rising to the surface, smoothed the waters. This might be a
suggestion to modern marine and fresh-water pearl fishers.

127. “The Travels of Pedro Teixeira,” Hakluyt Society, 1902, pp. 174–181.

128. “Asiatic Researches,” London, 1798, pp. 393, et seq.

129. “The Island of Ceylon,” 1803, ch. 3.

130. “Description of Ceylon,” 1807, Vol. II, pp. 36–78.

131. In 1881, the number of days was the same—47, the season extending from March 4 to
April 27. In 1891 there were 40 working days, in 1904 there were 33, in 1903 there were 36, and in
1906 there were 36 days of actual fishing.

132. See Reinaud’s “Fragments Arabes,” Paris, 1845, p. 125.

133. “Pearl Oyster Fisheries of the Gulf of Manaar,” 5 vols., London, 1903–1906.

134. Tavernier, “Travels in India,” Vol. II, ch. 21.

135. See pp. 110, 111.

136. The report of the Chief of Police at the 1905 fishery states: “In the camp there were 40,000
to 50,000 persons, of whom it may be said that not less than a tenth were gamblers, vagrants, and
rogues, who, without occupation in their own country, made their way to Marichchukkadi with the
hope of making money to gamble in oysters.” (“Reports on the Pearl Fisheries for 1905,” Colombo,
p. 17.)

Page 746

137. In 1906 there were 473 boats employed; in 1905, 318; in 1857, 1858, 1859, and 1863, over
400 boats reported for employment.

138. Some years ago, notably in the early sixties, each and every boat was required to have ten
divers, thus making a total of 23 persons in each boat. (See Vane’s “Report on Ceylon Pearl
Fisheries,” 1863.)

139. Supra., p. 100.

140. Hornell, “Reports on the Pearl Fisheries of 1904,” Colombo, p. 31.

141. “Reports on the Pearl Fishery for 1904,” p. 7.

142. “Reports on the Pearl Fishery for 1905,” p. 23.

143. Ibid., p. 22.

144. “The Book of Ser Marco Polo,” London, 1871, Vol. II, p. 267.

145. Cordiner, “Description of Ceylon,” Vol. II, p. 52.

146. “Reports on the Pearl Fisheries of 1904,” p. 17.

147. Ibid., p. 17.

148. Ibid., p. 34.

149. “Royal Asiatic Society Proceedings,” 1887–1888, p. 100.

150. “Reports on the Pearl Fisheries of 1905,” p. 40.

151. Ibid., p. 24.

152. “Reports on the Pearl Fishery for 1904,” Colombo, p. 6.

153. “Colonial Sessional Papers,” 1904, Colombo, p. 653.

154. “Colonial Sessional Papers,” 1906, Colombo, p. 330.

155. “Reports on the Pearl Fisheries for 1905,” Colombo, p. 25.

156. Ordinance No. 8 of 1906.

157. “Ceylon Sessional Papers,” 1906, p. 328.

158. Ibid., pp. 333, 335.

159. “Ceylon Sessional Papers,” 1906, p. 650.

160. The Government Commission has interdicted the fishing for this year (1908), as experts
have reported the pearl-oysters were not plentiful enough and were also immature, being only five
years old. The next fishery will be in 1909.

Page 747

161. Kelaart, “Report on the Tablegram Pearl-Oysters,” Trincomali, 1857, 6 pp.

162. Hornell, “Report on the Placuna placenta Pearl Fishery of Lake Tampalakamam,”
Colombo, 1906.

163. Jardine, “Report Relating to the Mergui Pearl Fisheries,” Rangoon, 1894, p. 6.

164. Nisbet, “Burma Under British Rule and Before,” Westminster, 1901, Vol. I, p. 362.

165. Nisbet, “Burma Under British Rule and Before,” Vol. I, p. 363.

166. See Proverbs xxxi, 1.

167. Hesse, “Der Zoologische Garten,” Dec. 1, 1898.

168. Wellsted, “Travels in Arabia,” London, 1838, Vol. II, p. 238.

169. Ibid., Vol. I, pp. 268, 269.

170. “Bolletino della Società d’esplorazione commerciale in Africa,” Milan, June, 1898.

171. Von Hessling, “Die Perlenmuscheln,” Leipzig, 1859, p. 6.

172. See p. 288 for an account of the methods.

173. Statist. “Beschreibung des chines. Reiches,” 1842, Vol. II, p. 11.

174. Ranft, “Vollständige Beschreibung des russischen Reiches,” Leipzig, 1767, p. 415.

175. Witsen, “Nord en Oost Tartarye,” 1705. p. 762.

176. Tavernier, “Travels in India,” Ball edition, London, 1889, Vol. II, pp. 113, 114.

177. One candareen equals 5.72 grains.

178. One koban equals 66 cents.

179. $4200.

180. Kaempfer, “History of Japan,” 1728, Vol. I, pp. 110, 111.

181. Ibid., Vol. I, p. 139.

182. Joao dos Santos, “Ethopia Oriental,” Lisbon, 1609, Vol. i, c. 27.

183. Lisbon Geographical Society Report, January, 1903.

184. “Britanniam petiisse spe margaritarum, quarum amplitudinem conferentem, interdum sua
manu exegisse pondus.” “Divus Julius Caesar,” c. 47.

185. “Naturall Historie,” Holland edition, London, 1601, Lib. IX, c. 35.

186. “Vita Agricolæ,” c. 12.

Page 748

187. Giles’s edition, London, 1840, p. 6.

188. Joyce. “Social History of Ancient Ireland.” New York. 1903. Vol. II, p. 227.

189. Nicolai, “Anglia Sacra,” Vol. II, p. 236. Also “Alberti Magni Opera Omnia,” ed. Augusti
Borgnet, Paris. 1890, Vol. V., p. 41.

190. “Histoire de l’Orfèvrerie-Joaillerie.” Paris, 1850, p. 46. De Laborde, “Emaux,” Paris, 1852,
Vol. II, p. 437.

191. Camden. “Britannia.” 2nd edition, London, 1722, Vol. II, p. 802.

192. Macpherson, “Annals of Commerce,” Vol. II, p. 131.

193. Sibbald, “Hist. Nat. Scotiae,” 1684, Vol. III, p. 27.

194. Camden, “Britannia,” London, 1695, p. 924.

195. London, 1777, Vol. II., p. 24.

196. “History of Cumberland,” London, 1794, Vol. I, p. 573.

197. Joyce. “Social History of Ancient Ireland,” New York, 1903, Vol. II, p. 227.

198. “Transactions of the Royal Society of London, for 1693,” Vol. XVIII, No. 198, pp. 659–
663.

199. Pennant, “Tour in Scotland,” Chester, 1771.

200. London “Times,” December 24, 1863.

201. Hugh Miller, “My Schools and Schoolmasters,” 1852, p. 201.

202. Puton, “Mollusques terrestres et fluviales des Vosges: Le Département des Vosges,
statistique, historique, et administrative, par Henri Lepaye et Ch. Charton,” Nancy, 1845, 8vo, 2
vols., Vol. I.

203. Godron, “Les perles de la Vologne, et le Château-sur-Perle.” “Mémoires de l’Académie de
Stanislas, 1869,” Nancy, 1870, pp. 10–30.

204. Volcyr, “Cronicque abrégée par petits vers huytains des Empereurs, Roys, et Ducz
d’Austraisie,” etc., Paris, 1530.

205. Reues, “De Gemmis aliquot,” etc., Tiguri, 1566, p. 47.

206. Claude de la Ruelle, “Les pourtraicts des ceremonies, ... et pompe funèbres faitez au corps
de feu Charles III, Duc de Lorraine,” etc. Nancy, 1609.

207. Lister, “Journey to Paris in the year 1698,” London, p. 143.

208. Durival, “Description de la Lorraine et du Barrois,” Nancy, 1779, Vol. I, p. 280.

Page 749

209. Bonnemere, “Les perles fines de l’Ouest de la France,” “Revue des sciences naturelles de
l’Ouest,” 1899, Vol. III, p. 97–99.

210. “La Nature,” 1899, pp. 347, 348.

211. Von Hessling, “Ueber die Erzeugung künstlicher Perlen,” “Gelehrte Anzeigen der
Münchener Akademie,” 1856, Vol. II, p. 159.

212. Weinmann, “Bresslauer Naturgeschichten,” 1725.

213. Tavernier, “Travels in India,” 1889, Vol. II, p. 113.

214. Von Hessling, “Die Perlenmuscheln,” Leipzig, 1859, p. 179.

215. “Beiträge zur Naturkunde des Herzogthums Celle,” Halle, 1766, Pt. I, p. 70.

216. Von Hessling, “Die Perlenmuscheln,” p. 180.

217. Möbius, “Die echten Perlen,” Hamburg, 1858., p. 47.

218. Jahn, “Voigtländische Perlenfischerei,” p. 165; Von Hessling, “Die Perlenmuscheln,” p.
182.

219. Von Hessling, “Die Perlenmuscheln,” p. 182.

220. “Die echten Perlen,” p. 48.

221. Gesner, “De aquatilibus,” Tiguri, 1560.

222. Bohuslai Balbini, “Miscellanea historica regni Bohemiæ,” Prague, 1679, Vol. I, p. 73.

223. “Allg. Zeitung,” Nov. 1, 1858, No. 305.

224. Von Hessling, “Die Perlenmuscheln,” Leipzig, p. 178.

225. Holberg, “Danmarks Riges Historie,” Reicharot edition, 1743, Vol. II, p. 632.

226. Thaaruys, “Versuch einer Statistik der dänischen Monarchie,” Copenhagen, 1795, Pt. I, p.
416.

227. Jahn, “Voigtländische Perlenfischerei,” p. 175; and Von Hessling, “Die Perlenmuscheln,” p.
189.

228. Pontoppidan, “Versuch einer natürlichen Historie von Norwegen,” Copenhagen, 1754, Vol.
II, p. 309.

229. Olaus Magnus, “Historia de gentibus septentrionalibus,” Antwerp, 1562, c. 6, p. 192.

230. Linnæus, “Lach. Lapponica,” Vol. II, pp. 104–107.

231. See “Abhandlungen der Schwedischen Akademie,” 1742, Vol. IV, p. 240; 1759, Vol. XXI,
p. 136, and 1762, Vol. XXIV, p. 64.

Page 750

232. “Die Perlenmuscheln,” Leipzig, 1859, p. 194.

233. Kawall, “La pêche des perles en Livonie,” “Annales de la Société Malacologique de
Belgique,” 1872, Vol. VII, pp. 38–46.

234. Dionysius Fabricius, “Scriptor rerum Livonicarum,” 1612, Vol. II, p. 440.

235. G. F. Mylius, “Memorabilium Saxoniae subterraneae,” Leipzig, 1709–1718, Vol. II, p. 20.

236. Charles Zeze, “Considerations sur les lièvres blancs en Livonie,” 1749, p. 52.

237. A. H. Hupel, “Nouvelles topographiques de Livonie et d’Esthionie,” 1774, Vol. I, p. 134.

238. “Die Perlenmuscheln,” Leipzig, p. 196.

239. Baer and Helmersen, “Beiträge zur Kenntniss des russischen Reiches,” St. Petersburg,
1845, Vol. XI, pp. 143, 144.

240. Kohl, “Reisen in Südrussland,” 2nd edition, Leipzig, 1846, Vol. I, p. 15.

241. “Voyage aux Iles du Grand Océan,” Paris, 1838; also “Le Correspondant,” March 10, 1906.

242. “La Peche et la Culture des Huitres Perlières à Tahiti; Pêcheries de l’Archipel Tuamotu,”
Paris, 1885.

243. Seurat, “L’huitre perlière,” Paris, 1900, p. 133.

244. Lucatt, “Rovings in the Pacific from 1837 to 1849,” London, 1851, Vol. I, p. 245.

245. “Bulletin United States Fish Commission,” Vol. V, p. 293.

246. Alexander, “Report United States Fish Commission,” Vol. XXVII, p. 764.

247. “Tahiti et les Colonies Françaises de la Polynésie,” Paris, 1887, p. 173.

248. “Report on Pearl Fisheries of North Queensland,” Brisbane, 1890.

249. Garran, “Australasia Illustrated,” Sydney, 1892, Vol. II, p. 886.

250. Gill, “Life in the Southern Isles,” London, 1876, p. 294.

251. “Australind,” London, 1900, pp. 233–239.

252. 45 Victoriæ, No. 2.

253. 50 Victoriæ, No. 2.

254. 55 Victoriæ, No. 29.

255. 50 Victoriæ, No. 7.

256. 55 Victoriæ, No. 29.

Page 751

257. “Departmental Commission on Pearl Shell and Bêche-de-Mer Fisheries,” Brisbane, 1897.

258. “Report on the Fishing Industry for the Year 1905,” Perth, 1906, pp. 4–7.

259. During the month of June, 1908, a severe storm destroyed a pearling fleet, with a loss of 40
vessels and 270 lives.

260. “Report of Departmental Commission on Pearl Shell and Bêche-de-Mer Fisheries,”
Brisbane, 1897.

261. 55 Victoriæ, No. 29.

262. To this should be added the output of Sharks Bay, amounting to £2000 in 1906, making a
total of $450,000.

263. See pp. 70 and 200.

264. Comyn, “State of the Philippine Islands,” London, 1820, pp. 38, 39.

265. “Storia Naturale delle Gemme,” Naples, 1730. Vol. I, p. 461.

266. Crawfurd, “History of the Indian Archipelago,” Edinburgh, 1820, Vol. III, p. 445.

267. Act No. 51, June 7, 1904.

268. A letter from the Bureau of Insular Affairs, dated November 20, 1906, states: “It is
proposed by the officials of the Moro province to amend the regulations so that, under certain
restrictions, vessels of foreign build may engage in pearl fisheries.”

269. Act No. 43, amended June 7, 1904.

270. “Historia general de las Indias,” by Francisco Lopez de Gomara, 12mo, 1554, pp. 104–106
b.

271. Herrera, “Historia general de los hechos de los Castellanos en las islas y Tierra Firme del
Mar Oceano,” Dec. iii, Book VII, ch. 3.

272. Herrera, “Descripcion de las Indias Occidentales,” Dec. iv, Book VI, ch. 12.

273. Humboldt’s “Personal Narrative,” Vol. II, p. 273.

274. Translated from “Historia del Mondo Nuovo,” Geneva, 1578.

275. Translation of Chauveton’s Notes to Benzoni’s “Historia del Mondo Nuovo,” Geneva,
1578, fol. 170.

276. Ibid., fol. 168.

277. “Natural and Moral History of the Indies,” Hakluyt Society, London, 1880, p. 228.

278. Humboldt, “Personal Narrative of Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of the New
Continent, 1799–1804.”

Page 752

279. Findlay, “Directory for the Navigation of the Pacific Ocean,” London, 1851, Vol. I, p. 217.

280. Rosales, “Gran Recopilación de Venezuela,” Caracas, 1889.

281. Gomara, “Historia general de las Indias,” 1554, pp. 268, 269 b.

282. 111½ ounces of gold; present value about $2300.

283. Gemelli-Careri, “Giro del Mondo,” Venezia, 1719, p. 240.

284. Ulloa, “Relación historica del viage á la América meridional,” Madrid, 1748.

285. “Ulloa’s Voyage to South America,” translated by J. Adams, London, 1758.

286. Hakluyt’s “Voyages,” Glasgow, 1904, Vol. IX, pp. 318, 319.

287. Clavigero, “Storia della California,” Venezia, 1789, Vol. I, p. 161.

288. Venegas, “Noticia de las Californias,” Madrid, 1757, p. 454.

289. Clavigero, “Historia de la Baja antigua California.” Esteva, “Boletin de la Sociedad
Mexicana de Geographia y Estadistica,” Vol. X, pp. 673–697.

290. Pedro Alvarado, “Historia California,” Vol. I, p. 10.

291. Baegert, “Nachrichten von der Amerikanischen Halbinsel Californien,” Mannheim, 1772.

292. Arch. Cal. Prov. St. Pap. xvi. Ben. Mil. xvi, xvii, xviii.

293. Hardy, “Travels in Mexico,” London, 1829, pp. 231–238.

294. Diguet, “Bulletin de la Société Centrale d’Aquiculture,” Paris, 1895, Vol. VII, pp. 1–18.

295. Esteva, “Memoria sobre la Pesca de la Perla,” “Boletin de la Sociedad Mexicana de
Geographía,” Vol. X, pp. 681–688.

296. Lassepas, “Historia de la Baja California,” Mexico, 1859, p. 65.

297. Pujol, “Estudio Biológico sobre la ostra Avicula margaritiferus,” “Boletin de la Sociedad de
Geographía,” Epoc. 2, Vol. III, p. 139 et seq.

298. Diguet, “Bulletin de la Société Centrale d’Aquiculture,” 1895, Vol. VII.

299. Lassepas, “Historia de la Colonizaciónde la Baja California,” Mexico, 1859.

300. “Recueil des pièces sur la Floride,” Paris, 1841.

301. “Relaçam verdadeira dos Trabalhos q ho gouernador dō Fernādo de Souto e certos fidalgos
portugueses passarom no descobrimēto da provincia da Frolida. Agora nouamente feita per hū fidalgo
Deluas.”

302. “La Florida del Ynca,” Lisbon, 1605.

Page 753

303. One arroba = twenty-five pounds’ weight.

304. “Discovery of Florida,” Hakluyt Society, 1851, Vol. IX, p. 181.

305. Ibid., p. 50.

306. “Discovery of Florida,” Hakluyt Society, 1851, Vol. IX, p. 60.

307. Bernard Shipp, “The History of Hernando de Soto and Florida from 1512 to 1568,”
Philadelphia, 1881, 8vo, p. 364.

308. Bernard Shipp, “The History of Hernando de Soto and Florida from 1512 to 1568,”
Philadelphia, 1881, 8vo, p. 369.

309. Ibid., p. 372.

310. “Relation of Alvar Nunez Cabeça de Vaca,” translated by Buckingham Smith, New York,
1871.

311. Bernard Shipp, “History of Hernando de Soto and Florida,” Philadelphia, 1881, p. 586.

312. Hakluyt, “The Principall Navigations, Voiages, and Discoveries of the English Nation,”
London, 1589.

313. “Purchas’s Pilgrims,” London, 1625, Vol. IV, p. 179.

314. Hakluyt’s “Voyages,” Glasgow, Vol. VIII, p. 357.

315. P. F. X. de Charlevoix, “History of New France,” New York, 1900, p. 129.

316. “Voyage of Father Gravier in 1700 From the Country of Illinois to the Mouth of the
Mississippi,” Cleveland, 1900, p. 141.

317. Coxe, “A Description of the English Province of Carolana, by the Spaniards call’d Florida,
and by the French La Louisiane, as also of the Great and Famous River Meschacebe or Missisipi,”
London, 1722, pp. 82, 83.

318. “Allgemeine Handelszeitung,” Leipzig, April, 1789, p. 218.

319. “Frank Leslie’s Magazine,” New York, May 23, 1857, Vol. III, pp. 384–386.

320. “Gems and Precious Stones of North America,” by George F. Kunz, New York, 1889–1892,
pp. 211–257. “The Fresh-Water Pearls of the United States,” Washington, 1898, 50 pages and plates.

321. “Neue Zeit,” in Ausland, 1858, No. 8, p. 192.

322. See p. 258.

323. Illinois State has passed a bill to regulate pearl fishing. See Addendum on p. 513.

324. Philostratus, “Vita Apollonii,” Lib. III, c. 57, edit. Olearii, p. 139. Also see Konrad von
Gessner, “Historiæ natura,” Lib. IV, p. 634.

Page 754

325. Vol. XXII, pp. 425–437.

326. Pulteney, “General View of the Writings of Linnæus,” London, 1805.

327. “Proceedings of the Linnean Society of London,” October, 1905. p. 26.

328. Pearl: an excrescence on the inside of a shell when the outside has been perforated.

329. Beckmann, “History of Inventions,” London, 1846, Vol. I, p. 263.

330. London, 1821, p. 48.

331. “Proceedings of the Linnean Society of London,” October, 1905, p. 29.

332. See Grill, “Abhandlungen der königlichen Schwedischen Akademie der Wissenschaften auf
das Jahr 1772,” Leipzig, Vol. XXXIV, pp. 88–90.

333. “Journal of the Society of Arts,” Vol. II, pp. 72–75.

334. “Proceedings of the Linnean Society of London,” October, 1905, p. 28.

335. “La Pèche et la Culture des Huitres Perlières à Tahiti,” Paris, 1885.

336. “Comptes Rendus de l’Académie des Sciences,” Vol. CXXVII, pp. 828–830.

337. See p. 73.

338. Kæmpfer, “History of Japan,” London, 1728, Vol. I, pp. 110–112.

339. “Notes and Queries,” 3rd Series, Vol. II, p. 228.

340. “Journal of the Straits Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society,” Singapore, 1878, Vol. I., pp.
31–37.

341. “Jewelers’ Review,” May 10, 1892.

342. Bloomfield, “Hymns of the Atharvaveda,” Oxford, 1897, p. 62.

343. Macgowan, “Journal of the Society of Arts,” Vol. II, p. 73.

344. Pfirzmaier, “Kaiserliche Akademie der Wissenschaften,” Wien, 1868, Vol. LVII, p. 623.

345. Translated from Klenn, “Culturgeschichte,” Leipzig, 1852, Vol. X, p. 318.

346. Tennyson, “Idylls of the King.”

347. “Opera omnia,” Paris, 1864, Vol. V, p. 473.

348. W. & G. Audsley, “Handbook of Christian Symbolism,” London, 1865, p. 140.

349. “Lucile,” Pt. II, c. 6, st. 16.

350. “Le Mercure Indien, ou le Trésor des Indes,” Paris, 1672, p. 160.

Page 755

351. Many Greek scholars maintain that this is a knotted cord or fillet; but this view is contested
by others.

352. Edited by Jibananda Vidyasagara, Calcutta, 1877.

353. Edited by Vidyasagara, 1873.

354. Garbe, “Die Indischen Mineralien.” Narahari’s “Raganighantu,” Varga XIII, Leipzig, 1882,
p. 74.

355. Ainslie, “Materia Indica,” London, 1826, Vol. I, p. 292.

356. “Maṉi-málá,” Calcutta, 1881, p. 871.

357. “Maṉi-málá,” Calcutta, 1879, p. 315.

358. Finot, “Les Lapidaires Indiens,” Paris, 1896, p. 15.

359. “Materia medica of India and their Therapeutics,” Bombay, 1903, p. 98.

360. “Alberti Magni Opera omnia,” ed. Augusti Borgnet, Paris, 1890, Vol. V, p. 41.

361. “Lapidario del Rey D. Alfonso X,” Codice original, Madrid, 1881, p. 4.

362. De Boot, “Gemmarum et Lapidum Historia,” Hanover, 1609, Lib. II, c. 38, p. 87.

363. Margaritologia, Monachii, 1637.

364. Lovell, “Panmineralogicon,” Oxford, 1661, pp. 77, 78.

365. Jones, “Credulities Past and Present,” London, 1880, p. 166.

366. “Speculum lapidum,” Venice, 1502, p. 37.

367. Yriarte, “Florence,” Paris, 1881, p. 39.

368. Bacon, “Historia Vitæ et Mortis,” Londini, 1623, p. 100.

369. Grew, Nehemiah, “Musæum Regalis Societatis,” London, 1681, p. 145.

370. “A Queen’s Delight,” London, 1671, pp. 75, 76.

371. “Hamlet,” Act V, sc. 2.

372. W. J. Lawson, “History of Banking,” London, 1850, pp. 24, 25.

373. “The Naturall Historie of C. Plinius Secundus,” Lib. IX, c. 35. This anecdote is mentioned
also by Macrobius (Circa 400 A.D.) in “Saturnaliorum conviviorum libri septem,” Lib. II, c. 13.

374. See p. 55.

375. “The Naturall Historie of C. Plinius Secundus,” Lib. IX, c. 35.

Page 756

376. See the epitaph of Tutichylus “qui fuit margaritarius,” Orelli, 4076.

377. Lowis d’A. Jackson, “Modern Metrology,” London, 1881, p. 370.

378. Grimm, “Deutsches Wörterbuch,” Leipzig, 1873, Vol. V, p. 205.

379. Guillaume, “Les récents progrès du système métrique,” Paris, 1907, pp. 62–66, “La
réforme du carat.”

380. William Hallock and Herbert T. Wade. “Outlines of the Evolution of Weights and Measures
and the Metric System,” New York, 1906, p. 25.

381. “A New English Dictionary,” Oxford and New York, 1893, Vol. II, Pt. I, p. 105.

382. Buteonis, “Opera Geometrica,” Lugduni, 1554, pp. 88–96.

383. See “Edelsteinkunde,” Wilhelm Rau, Leipzig, 1907, p. 137.

384. “Les Lapidaires Indiens,” Paris, 1896.

385. The guñja was one fifth of a mâsaka and equaled about 2¼ grains.

386. Finot, “Les Lapidaires Indiens,” Paris, 1896, p. 22.

387. “Fior di Pensieri sulle Pietre Preziose di Ahmed al Teifascite,” text and translation by
Antonio Raineri, Florence, 1818, pp. 8, 9.

388. Charles Barbot, “Traite Complète des Pierres Précieuses,” Paris, 1858, p. 467.

389. Emanuel, “Diamonds and Precious Stones,” 2nd edition, London, 1867, p. 6.

390. Anselmi de Boot, “Gemmarum et Lapidum Historia,” Hanoviae, 1609, pp. 88–90.

391. De Rosnel, “Le Mercure Indien,” Paris, 1672, Pt. III, pp. 17, 18.

392. Rice Vaughan, “A Discourse of Coin and Coinage,” London, 1675, p. 241.

393. David Jeffries, “A Treatise on Diamonds and Pearls,” London, 1751, pp. 128–141.

394. “Encyclopédie de Diderot et d’Alembert,” Neuchâtel and Paris, 1774, Vol. XII, p. 385.

395. Pio Naldi, “Delle Gemme e delle Regole per Valutarle,” Bologna, 1791, p. 207.

396. Emanuel, “Diamonds and Precious Stones,” London, 1867, p. 197.

397. “L’Encyclopédie ou Dictionnaire Raisonné des Sciences,” Neuchâtel and Paris, 1774, Vol.
XII, p. 385.

398. “Delle Gemme,” etc., 1791.

399. See “Report to the Government of Ceylon on the Pearl Oyster Fisheries of the Gulf of
Manaar,” by W. A. Herdman, F.R.S., Pt. V, London, 1906, pp. 34–36.

Page 757

400. See pp. 124–127.

401. See “Modern Metrology,” Lowis d’A. Jackson, London, 1882, p. 369.

402. From “Navaratnapariska,” in Finot, “Les Lapidaires Indiens,” p. 158.

403. Guillielmi Budaei, “De Asse,” Venice, 1522, Lib. V, pp. 67, 68.

404. Caire and Dufie, “La Science des Pierres Précieuses appliquée aux Arts,” Paris, 1833.

405. Charles Barbot, “Traité Complète des Pierres Précieuses,” Paris, 1858, pp. 464, 465.

406. “The Book of Ser Marco Polo, the Venetian.” Trans. and ed. by Col. Henry Yule, London,
1871, Vol. II, p. 275.

407. General Appraisers 5146 (Treasury Department 23748).

408. December 6, 1901; 112 Fed. Rep. 672.

409. Suit No. 3328.

410. Dec. 29, 1903.

411. Suit No. 4974.

412. General Appraisers 4166.

413. General Appraisers 5148.

414. Suits Nos. 2781 and 3324.

415. John and Andrew van Rymsdyk, “Museum Brittanicum,” London, 1778, p. 8, note.

416. Finot, “Les Lapidaires Indiens,” Paris, 1896, p. 24.

417. “An Essay upon Various Arts, in Three Books by Theophilus, called also Rugerus, Priest
and Monk, Forming an Encyclopedia of Christian Art of the Eleventh Century.” Translated, with
notes, by Robert Hendrie. London, 1847.

418. “Indian Art,” by Sir George C. M. Birdwood (South Kensington Museum Art Books), Pt.
II, pp. 188, 248.

419. Anselmi de Boodt, “Gemmarum et Lapidum Historia,” Hanover, 1609. Lib. II, c. 40,
“Quomodo margaritae perforuntur,” p. 91.

420. See portrait facing page 442.

421. Charles Barbot, “Traité Complète des Pierres Précieuses,” Paris, 1858, pp. 464, 465.

422. “Délégation en Perse,” Paris, 1905, Vol. VIII, p. 52.

423. De Morgan, “Délégation en Perse,” Paris, 1905, Vol. VIII, p. 52.

Page 758

424. Imhoof-Blumer, “Porträtköpfe auf antiken Münzen,” pl. 7, figs. 12 sqq.

425. See “Délégation en Perse,” Vol. VIII. “Recherches Archéologiques.” Paris, 1905, third
series, pp. 51–2, pl. 5.

426. Equivalent to about 1,250,000 ounces of silver; Hardouin says 7,600,000 francs.

427. “Naturall Historie,” London, 1601, Lib. IX, c. 35.

428. MS. Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris, 2089, XLVII, No. 12.

429. “Dictionnaire des Antiquites Grecques et Romaines,” ed. by Deremberg and Saglio: Art.
“Inaures” by Pottier, Paris, 1899, Vol. III, pp. 440–447.

430. Babelon, “Cab. des Antiq.,” pl. 33, fig. 3.

431. Duruy, “Hist. des Romains,” Vol. I, p. 511.

432. Custodian of the coin collection of the Philadelphia Mint.

433. Imperial Museum of Archæology, St. Petersburg, Russia.

434. “Della Storia Naturale delle Gemme delle Pietre e di tutti i Minerali,” Giacinto Gimma,
Naples, 1730.

435. Tabari, “Chronique,” translated by Zotenberg, Paris, 1869, Vol. II, p. 304.

436. Ibid., Vol. III, p. 417.

437. Alexander, “The History of Women,” London, 1782, Vol. II, p. 136.

438. “The Book of Ser Marco Polo, the Venetian,” trans. and ed. by Col. Henry Yule, London,
1871, Vol. I, p. 343.

439. De Mély, “Les Lapidaires Chinois,” Paris, 1896, p. 178.

440. “The Book of Ser Marco Polo, the Venetian,” trans. and ed. by Col. Henry Yule, London,
1871, Vol. II, p. 275.

441. Alexander, “The History of Women,” London, 1782, Vol. II, p. 172.

442. Max Müller, “Rig-Veda Samhita,” 1862, Vol. IV, p. 64.

443. Alexander, “The History of Women,” London, 1782, Vol. II, p. 171.

444. From a letter of Charles Roach Smith, Esq., F. S. A., to John Gage Rokewode, F. R. S.
“Archæologia,” Vol. XXIX, p. 70.

445. Augustus C. Hamlin, “Leisure Hours Among the Gems,” Boston, 1884, p. 22.

446. Dieulafoy, “L’art antique de la Perse,” Paris, 1884. Pt. V, p. 137.

Page 759

447. See Maskell, “Russian Art” (South Kensington Museum Handbooks), London, 1884, pp.
83, 84; also “La Russie Méridionale,” by Reinach-Kondakoff-Tolstoy, pp. 489, 490.

448. “Die Domkirche bei St. Veit in Prag,” Prague, 1890, pp. 13, 19, 21.

449. Abridged from a description by Professor Tennant.

450. Davenport Debrett, “Dictionary of the Coronation,” London, p. 52.

451. Sir Walter Scott, “Description of the Regalia of Scotland,” Edinburgh, 1869.

452. Communicated by Prof. H. Schumacher of Bonn and Johann Wagner & Sohn, Jewelers of
the German Court.

453. W. Jones, “Crowns and Coronations,” London, 1883, p. 425.

454. Otto von Falke and Heinrich Frauberger, “Deutsche Schmelzarbeiten des Mittelalters,”
Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1904, p. 2.

455. Otto von Falke and Heinrich Frauberger, “Deutsche Schmelzarbeiten des Mittelalters,”
Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1904, pp. 6, 7.

456. Ibid., p. 9.

457. Ibid., p. 16.

458. Josef Dankó, “Aus dem Graner Domschatz,” Gran, 1880, pp. 64–66.

459. Josef Dankó, “Aus dem Graner Domschatz,” Gran, 1880, pp. 67–70.

460. Ibid., pp. 74, 75.

461. “Katalog der Schatzkammer von Maria Loretto am Hradschin zu Prag,” Prague, 1891, pp.
34, 40.

462. Maskell, “Russian Art” (South Kensington Museum Handbooks), London, 1884, pp. 119,
120.

463. Baedeker, “Russland,” Leipzig, 1888, p. 317.

464. One of the authors has in his possession twenty manuscript volumes of these inventories.
They are careful copies from the originals, most of which are in the Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris.
These copies were executed for M. E. Molinier, a conservator of the Louvre Museum, and were
disposed of after his death in 1906. The values in the money of the times are usually given, and we
have endeavored where possible to indicate the equivalent in United States currency, taking account
of the progressive changes in the French monetary standard.

465. “Inventaire des Joyaux de Louis Duc d’Anjou,” In De Laborde’s “Emaux,” Paris, 1853,
Vol. II.

466. Bibliothèque Nationale. MS. fr. 6542 (suppt. 4622) parchemin original, 13 pp. in folio.

467. De Laborde, “Emaux,” Paris, 1853, Vol. II, p. 437.

Page 760

468. “Inventaire des Biens de Marguerite de Flandre,” Bibliothèque Nationale coll., Moreau,
1725 (Mouchet 5).

469. Bibl. Nat. MS. Latin. 9941 (suppt. 1656), folio, parchment, 40 leaves.

470. Bibliothèque Nationale MS. fr. 18766 (S. Germain fr. 910) 40 ff. Bound in green velvet.

471. Bibl. Natl. MS. français, 4611, folio, pp. 433 in parchment.

472. “Inventaires des Ducs de Bourgogne,” De Laborde, “Emaux,” Vol. II, p. 438.

473. See De Laborde. “Emaux,” Paris, 1853, Vol. II, p. 437.

474. “Jahrbuch der kunsthistorischen Sammlungen des allerhöchsten Kaiserhauses,” Vienna,
1895, Vol. XIV, Pt. II, p. 52. “Inventories of Philip II” (1598–1607).

475. Ibid., Vol. XIX, Pt. II, p. 170.

476. From eptli—shell, and yollott—heart, i.e., life.

477. “Heraldic. Curios.,” Pars III, c. 8, p. 12.

478. Debrett, “Dictionary of the Coronation,” p. 127.

479. “Illustrated London News,” April 13, 1878, p. 347.

480. Pliny, “Naturall Historie,” London, 1601, Lib. IX, c. 35.

481. Budé, “De Asse,” Paris, 1514.

482. Pliny, “Historia Naturalis,” Lib. IX, c. 35.

483. “Historia,” Lib. I, c. 4, ed. Niebuhr, Bonnae, 1833.

484. Panciroli, “Rerum Memorabilium, libri duo,” Frankfort. 1660, Pt. I, p. 44. We have been
unable to find this statement in the Annals of Zonaras; it was possibly derived from some gloss or
annotation.

485. Published by Lambeccius in “Bibliotheca Cæsarea,” Vol. II, p. 516.

486. See p. 254 for Garcilasso’s description.

487. Garcilasso, “Historie des Incas, Rois du Pérou,” Amsterdam, 1704, Vol. II, p. 352.

488. Ibid., p. 351.

489. Miscel. Academ. Nat. Curios, Dec. 1, Ann. II, obs. 288.

490. “Hawkins’ Voyages,” Hakluyt Society, 1878, p. 315 note.

491. See Robertson, “Inventaires de la Royne d’Ecosse,” Bannatyne Club, 1863.

492. See Lang, “Portraits and Jewels of Mary Stuart,” Edinburgh, 1906.

Page 761

493. Teulet, “Relations politiques de la France et de l’Espagne avec l’Ecosse,” Vol. II, p. 352.

494. Teulet, “Relations,” etc., p. 364.

495. Walpole, “Anecdotes of Painting in England,” London, 1849, Vol. I, p. 151.

496. An interesting account of this collection was given in a little book, now quite rare,
published in London in 1793 by John Roberts, entitled “A View of the Waxen Figures in Henry VII’s
Chapel.”

497. Bolton, “Curious Relics of English Funerals,” Boston, 1894, p. 233.

498. Lawson, “History of Banking,” London, 1750, pp. 24, 25.

499. Burgon, “The Life and Times of Sir Thomas Gresham,” London, 1839, Vol. I, p. 69.

500. See p. 451.

501. London, 1631, p. 1297.

502. Tavernier, “Travels in India,” London, 1889, Vol. II, p. 130.

503. Tavernier used the Florentine carat, which equaled 3.04 grains troy.

504. Tavernier, “Travels in India,” London, 1889, Vol. II, p. 110.

505. One rati equaled seven eighths of the Florentine carat, or 2.66 grains troy.

506. Tavernier, “Travels in India,” London, 1889, Vol. I, pp. 397–399.

507. Sir Henry Miers Elliot, “The Mohammedan Period as described by Its Own Historians,”
Vol. V. of “The History of India,” ed. by A. V. W. Jackson, New York, 1907, p. 324.

508. See Fig. 2 of Tavernier’s diagram.

509. Tavernier, “Travels in India,” trans. by V. Ball, London, 1889, Vol. II, p. 384.

510. Benjamin, “Persia,” p. 73.

511. Brydges, “An Account of the Transactions of His Majesty’s Mission to the Court of Persia,
in the Years 1807–1811,” London, 1834, p. 383.

512. Porter, “Travels in Georgia, Armenia, Ancient Babylon,” etc., London, 1821, Vol. I, p. 325.

513. Robert de Berquen, “Les Merveilles des Indes Orientales et Occidentales,” Paris, 1661, p.
78 b.

514. Bibl. Nat. MS. “Mélanges de Colbert,” Tome 218, p. 14.

515. De Waldheim, “Essai sur la Pellegrina,” p. 48.

516. See p. 452.

Page 762

517. Hertz, “Catalogue of the Collection of Pearls and Precious Stones Formed by Henry Philip
Hope, Esq.,” London, 1839.

518. “Gems and Precious Stones of North America,” New York, 1892, Pl. VIII, p. 229.

519. Streeter, “Pearls and Pearling Life,” London, 1886, pp. 295, 296.

520. Taunton, “Australind,” London, 1900, p. 231.

521. Austrian Court Journal, 1899.

522. See p. 461.

523. The senior author was permitted to handle these treasures in 1899.

524. Winckler, “Die Reichskleinodien,” Berlin, 1872, p. 17.

525. Ibid., p. 9.

526. As this pearl was brought from the East later on, it may be the same as the Reine des
Perles, stolen from the French crown jewels in 1791. It is evidently the same as the La Pellegrina of
the Zozima brothers (1814) and later stolen from them, reappearing as the pearl described by Kohl, in
1840, first in the possession of a Russian merchant and then later in the Russian Treasury.

527. “American Anthropologist,” Lancaster, Pa., Vol. IX, No. 1, Jan.–March, 1907, pp. 57–86.

528. “True Travels,” Richmond edition, 1819, p. 144.

529. Strachey, “Historie of Travaile into Virginia Britannia,” Hakluyt Society, London, 1849, p.
65.

530. Smith, op. cit., p. 130.

531. Strachey, op. cit., p. 57.

Page 763

532. Smith, op. cit., p. 83.

533. Strachey, op. cit., p. 67. “The ‘blue’ or ‘violet-colored’ pearls shown in White’s original
drawings are probably stained pearls.” These were most probably the dark purple pearls of the round
clam or quohog of the coast, although it is possible that they were only glass beads.

534. Smith, op. cit., Pt. II, p. 19.

535. Thomas Hariot, “A Brief and True Report of the New Found Land of Virginia,” Holbein
edition, p. 11.

536. Willoughby, “American Anthropologist,” Lancaster, Pa., Vol. IX, No. 1, January, 1907, pp.
61, 62.

537. Beverley, “History of Virginia,” 1722, pp. 167, 186.

538. Strachey, op. cit., p. 89.

539. Smith, op. cit., p. 143.

540. Squier and Davis, Smithsonian “Contributions to Knowledge,” Vol. I, 1848, p. 283.

541. “Science,” April 6, 1906, Vol. XXIII, No. 588.

542. “History of Alabama,” Charlestown, 1851, Vol. I, p. 12.

543. “Moundville Revisited,” Reprint from the Journal of the Academy of Natural Sciences of
Philadelphia, Philadelphia, 1907, Vol. XIII, pp. 398–403.

544. “Antiquities of the Southern Indians,” New York, 1873, p. 483; also, “Monumental
Remains of Georgia,” Savannah, 1861, p. 14.

545. “Ancient Aboriginal Trade in North America,” Report of the Smithsonian Institution for
1872, p. 38 of the author’s reprint.

546. See “Artificial Shell Deposits in the United States,” in the Report of the Smithsonian
Institution for 1866, p. 357.

547. “Antiquities of Southern Indians,” p. 490.

548. Transactions of the Philosophic Society for 1693.

549. See p. 494.

550. “Exploration of the Edwin Harness Mound,” Columbus, O., press of F. J. Heer, 1907, p. 76.

551. “Ancient Monuments of the Mississippi Valley,” Squier & Davis, Washington, 1848, p.
232.

552. “Explorations in Ohio,” from the Eighteenth Report of the Peabody Museum, Cambridge,
1886, p. 462.

Page 764

553. Collection of Peabody Museum of Archæology, Cambridge, Mass.

554. Now in the Field Museum of Natural History, Chicago, Ill.

555. “American Archæologist,” May, 1897, to May, 1898.

556. “Archæologia Americana,” 1820, p. 182.

557. See p. 499.

558. See p. 498.

559. “La Salle and the Discovery of the Great West,” Parkman, p. 281.

560. William C. Mills, “Explorations of the Edwin Harness Mound, Columbus, O.”; press of
Fred. J. Heer, 1907. “Ohio Archæological and Historical Quarterly,” Vol. XVI, No. 2.

561. Herrmann, “Mound-builders of the Mississippi Valley,” pp. 92, 93.

562. A large number of these works are in the library of George F. Kunz.

Page 765

Page 766

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
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