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Title: Mysteries of Bee-keeping Explained

Author: M. Quinby

Release date: April 26, 2008 [eBook #25185]

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MYSTERIES OF
BEE-KEEPING EXPLAINED ***

MYSTERIES

OF

BEE-KEEPING EXPLAINED:
BEING A COMPLETE

ANALYSIS OF THE WHOLE SUBJECT;

CONSISTING OF

THE NATURAL HISTORY OF BEES, DIRECTIONS FOR OBTAINING THE GREATEST
AMOUNT OF PURE SURPLUS HONEY WITH THE LEAST POSSIBLE
EXPENSE, REMEDIES FOR LOSSES GIVEN, AND THE SCIENCE OF
"LUCK" FULLY ILLUSTRATED—THE RESULT OF MORE
THAN TWENTY YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN
EXTENSIVE APIARIES.

BY M. QUINBY,

PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPER.

NEW YORK:

C. M. SAXTON, AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHER
152 FULTON STREET. 1853.

Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by
M. QUINBY,
in the Clerk's Office
of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York.

E. O. JENKINS, PRINTER AND STEREOTYPER,
114 NASSAU STREET, N. YORK.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
BRIEF HISTORY.

Three kinds of Bees, 9
Queen described, 9
Description and Duty of Workers, 10

Description of Drones, 11
Most Brood in Spring, 11
Their Industry, 12

CHAPTER II.
HIVES.

Hives to be thoroughly made, 13
Different opinions about them, 14
The Author has no Patent to recommend, 14
Speculators supported long enough, 15
Prefix of Patent a bad recommendation, 15
Ignorance of affairs and committees, 15
Opposition to simplicity, 16
By gaining one point produce another evil, 16
First Delusion, 17
Chamber Hive, 17
Mrs. Griffith's Hive, 18
Weeks' Improvement, 18
Inclined Bottom-Boards do not throw out all the worms, 19
Objections to suspended hives, 19
See bees often, 20
Hall's Patent, 21
Jones's Patent, 21
An Experiment, 21
Reason of failure in dividing hive, 22
Cause of starving in such hives, 23
Advantages of the changeable hive considered, 24
Variation of these hives, 25
Expense in constructing changeable hives, 25
The surplus honey will contain bee-bread, 26

Description of Cutting's changeable hive, 26
First objection cost of construction, 28
Hives can be made with less expense, 29
Old breeding cells will last a long time, 29
Cells larger than necessary at first, 30
Expense of renewing combs, 30
Best to use old combs as long as they will last, 31
Method for Pruning when necessary, 31
Tools for Pruning, 32
Use of Tobacco Smoke, 33
Further objections to a sectional hive, 34
Non-Swarmers, 35
Contrast of profit, 35
Principle of swarming not understood, 36
Not to be depended upon, 37
Hives not always full before swarming, 37
Size of hives needed, 37
An Experiment, 37
Bees do not increase if full after the first year in same hive, 38
Gillmore's system doubted, 39
Utility of moth-proof hives doubted, 39
Instincts of the bee always the same, 40
Profit the object, 41
Common hive recommended, 42
Size Important, 42
Small hives most liable to accidents, 42
Apt to deceive, 43
Unprofitable if too large, 43
Correct size between two extremes, 43
Size for warm latitudes, 44

Larger hives more safe for long Winters or backward Spring, 44
2,000 inches safe for this section, 45
Kind of Wood, width of Board, &c., 46
Shape of little consequence, 46
Directions for making hives, 47
Size of cap and boxes, 48
Miner's Hive, 48
Directions for making holes, 49
A Suggestion, 50
Glass boxes preferred, 51
Glass boxes—how made, 51
Guide-combs necessary, 52
Wood Boxes, 53
Cover for Hives, 54
Jars and Tumblers—how prepared, 54
Perfect Observatory Hive described, 55
One like Common Hive preferred, 56
What may be seen, 56
Directions for making Glass Hive, 57
Plate for Hive, 61

CHAPTER III.
BREEDING.

Imperfectly Understood, 62
Good stocks seldom without brood, 63
How small stocks commence, 64
Different with larger ones, 65
How Pollen is stored in the breeding season, 65
Operation of Laying, and the Eggs described, 66
Time from the Egg to the perfect Bee, 67

Rough treatment of the young Bee, 67
Guess-work, 68
Terms applied to young Bees, 69
Discrepancy in time in rearing brood as given by Huber, 70
The number of Eggs deposited by the Queen guessed at, 71
A test for the presence of a Queen, 73
When Drones are reared, 74
When Queens, 74
Liability of being destroyed, 76
Drones destroyed when honey is scarce, 77
Old Queen leaves with the first swarm, 78
A young Queen takes the place of her mother in the old stock, 79
Other Theories, 80
Subject not understood, 80
Necessity for further observation, 84
Two sides of the question, 85

CHAPTER IV.
BEE PASTURAGE.

Substitute for Pollen, 88
Manner of packing it, 89
Alder yields the first, 89
Fruit Flowers important in good weather, 91
Red Raspberry a favorite, 91
Catnip, Mother-wort and Hoarhound, are sought after, 92
Singular fatality attendant on Silkweed, 93
Large yield from Basswood, 96
Garden Flowers unimportant, 97
Honey-dew, 97
Singular Secretion, 98

Secretions of the Aphis, 98
Advantages of Buckwheat, 101
Amount of honey collected from it, 101
Do Bees injure the crop? 102
Are not Bees an advantage to vegetation? 103
A test for the presence of Queen doubted, 106
An extra quantity of Pollen not always detrimental, 107
What combs are generally free from Bee-bread, 108
Manner of packing stores, 108
Philosophy in filling a cell with honey, 109
Long cells sometimes turned upward, 110
Is a dry or wet season best for honey? 111
How many Stocks should be kept, 112
Three principal sources of honey, 112

CHAPTER V.
WAX.

Is Pollen converted into Wax? 115
How is it obtained? 115
Huber's account of a commencement of comb, 117
Best time to witness comb-making, 118
Manner of working Wax, 119
Are crooked Combs a disadvantage? 120
Uncertainty in weight of Bees, 122
Some wax wasted, 124
Water necessary in Comb-making, 124
Remarks, 126

CHAPTER VI.
PROPOLIS.

What used for, 128
Is it an elaborate or natural substance? 129
Huber's Opinion, 129
Further Proof, 129
Remarks, 132

CHAPTER VII.
THE APIARY.

Its location, 132
Decide Early, 133
Bees mark their location on leaving the hive, 134
Changing stand attended with loss, 134
Can be taken some distance, 135
Danger of setting Stocks too close, 135
Space between Hives, 136
Small Matters, 136
Economy, 137
Cheap arrangement of stands, 138
Canal Bottom-board discarded, 139
Some advantage in being near the earth, 139
Utility of Bee-Houses doubted, 141

CHAPTER VIII.
ROBBERIES.

Not properly understood, 142
Improper Remedies, 143
Difficulty in deciding, 144
Weak families in most danger, 144
Their Battles, 145

Bad policy to raise in Hives, 146
Indications of Robbers, 146
A Duty, 147
A Test, 147
Robbing usually commences on a warm day, 148
Remedies, 149
Common Opinion, 149
A case in point, 149
Further Directions, 150
Common cause of commencing, 151
Spring the worst time, 152
No necessity to have Bees plundered in the fall, 153

CHAPTER IX.
FEEDING BEES.

Should be a last resort, 154
Care needed, 154
Apparent contradiction when feeding causes starvation, 155
How long it will do to wait before feeding, 156
Directions for feeding, 157
Whole Families may desert the Hive, 158
Objections to general feeding, 159
Arrangement for feeding, 159
Feeding to induce early swarms, 161
What may be fed, 162
Is candied honey injurious? 162

CHAPTER X.
DESTRUCTION OF WORMS.

Some in the best Stocks, 164
How Found, 165
A tool for their destruction, 165
Mistaken Conclusions, 167
Objections to suspended Bottom-board, 167
Advantage of the Hive close to the board, 168
Objection Answered, 169
Insufficiency of inclined Bottom-board 169
A Moth can go where Bees can, 170
Trap to catch Worms, 170
Box for Wren, 171

CHAPTER XI.
PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES.

Advantage of the Patent Vender, 172
Time of putting on—Rule, 172
Making holes after the Hive is full, 174
Advantage of proper arrangement, 174
Directions for boring holes in full Stock, 176
To be taken off when filled, 177
Time taken to fill a box, 178
When to take off boxes part full, 178
Tobacco Smoke preferred to Slides, 178
Manner of disposing of the Bees in the boxes, 179
Bees disposed to carry away honey, 179
Not disposed to sting, 180
Rule, 181

CHAPTER XII.

SECURING HONEY FROM THE MOTH.

Two things to be prevented, 181
Apt to be deceived about the Worms, 182
Their progress described, 182
A Solution offered, 183
Method of killing Worms in boxes, 185
Freezing destroys them, 186
Objection to using Boxes before the Hive is full, 187

CHAPTER XIII.
SWARMING.

Time to expect them, 187
All Bee-Keepers should understand it as it is, 188
Means of understanding it, 188
Inverting a stock rather formidable at first, 189
Requisites before preparation of Queen's cells, 189
State of Queen-cell when used, 190
State when swarms issue, 190
Clustering outside not always to be depended upon, 191
Examinations—the result, 191
Remarks, 192
Conflicting Theories, 192
Both Old and Young leave with swarms, 192
Cause of the Queen's inability to fly suggested, 193
Evidence of the Old Queen's leaving, 193
Mr. Weeks's Theory not satisfactory, 194
Particular directions for testing the matter, 196
Empty Hives to be ready, 197
Bottom-boards for hiving, 197

Description of swarm issuing, 198
Manner of hiving can be varied, 199
Usual Methods, 199
When out of reach, 200
When they cannot be shaken off, 202
All should be made to enter, 203
Should be taken to the stand immediately, 203
Protection from the Sun necessary, 203
Clustering Bushes, 204
How swarms are generally managed that leave for the
woods, 205
Nothing but Bees needed in a Hive, 206
Seldom go off without clustering, 207
Do swarms choose a location before swarming? 207
Means of arresting a swarm, 208
Some Compulsion, 208
How far will they go in search of honey? 209
Two or more swarms liable to unite, 211
Disadvantage, 211
Can often be prevented, 212
Indications of swarming inside the Hive, 212
Preventing a swarm issuing for a time, 213
To prevent swarms uniting with those already hived, 213
When two have united—the method of separating, 214
No danger of a sting by the Queen, 215
Some precautions in hiving two swarms together, 216
How to find Queen when two strangers are together, 217
Boxes for double swarms immediately, 218
Returning a part to the old stock, 218
Method of uniting, 219
When care is necessary, 219

Swarm-Catcher, 220
Swarms sometimes return, 222
Repetition prevented, 222
Liability to enter wrong stocks, 223
First issues generally choose fair weather, 224
After Swarms, 225
Their Size, 225
Time after the first, 225
Piping of the Queen, 225
May always be heard before and after swarm, 226
Time of continuance varies, 226
Time between second and third issues, 227
Not always to be depended upon, 227
A Rule for the time of these issues, 228
When it is useless to expect more swarms, 229
Plurality of Queens destroyed, 229
The Manner, 230
Theory doubted, 231
After-swarms different in appearance from the first, when
about to issue, 232
Time of day, weather, &c., 233
Swarms necessary to be seen, 233
Returning after-swarms to the old stock, 235
When they should be returned, 235
Method of doing it, 235
More care needed by After-swarms when hived, 237
Two may be united, 237

CHAPTER XIV.
LOSS OF QUEENS.

Of swarms that lose their Queen, 238
A suggestion and an answer, 239
A disputed question, 240
A multitude of Drones needed, 241
The Queen liable to be lost in her excursions, 243
The time when it occurs, 243
Indications of the loss, 244
The Result, 245
Age of Bees indicated, 246
Necessity of care, 246
Remedy, 247
Mark the date of swarms on the Hive, 248
Obtaining a Queen from worker brood, 249
They are poor dependence, 249

CHAPTER XV.
ARTIFICIAL SWARMS.

Principles should be understood, 252
Some Experiments, 253
The result unsatisfactory, 253
Further Experiments, 254
A successful method, 256
Advantages of this method, 257
Artificial swarms only safe near the swarming season, 259
Sometimes hazardous, 259
Some Objections, 259
Natural and artificial swarms equally prosperous, 260
This matter too often delayed, 261
Is the age of the Queen important? 261

CHAPTER XVI.
PRUNING.

Different opinions as to time, 262
Another time preferred, 263
Should not be delayed, 263
Objection to Pruning, 264
Stocks pruned now are better for winter, 265

CHAPTER XVII.
DISEASED BROOD.

Not generally understood, 266
My own experience, 267
Description of Disease, 267
The cause uncertain, 268
Remedial Experiments, 268
Public inquiry and answers, 268
Answers not satisfactory, 270
A cause suggested, 270
Reasons for the opinion, 272
Cause of its spreading, 273
Not easily detected at first, 274
Symptoms to be observed, 274
Scalding the honey to destroy the poison for feeding, 275
When to examine stocks that have swarmed, 275
Care in selecting stock-hives for winter, 276
Accusations not always right, 276

CHAPTER XVIII.
IRRITABILITY OF BEES.

Their means of defence, 277
Time of greatest Irritability, 278
Proper Conduct, 278
How to proceed when attacked, 279
A person's breath offensive, and other causes, 279
Their manner of attack, 279
Smoker described, 280
Effect of Tobacco Smoke, 281
Sting described, 282
Does its loss prove fatal? 283
Means of protection, 284
Remedies for stings, 285

CHAPTER XIX.
ENEMIES OF BEES.

Are they all guilty? 286
Rats and Mice, 287
Are all the Birds guilty? 288
King-bird—one word in his favor, 288
Cat-bird acquitted, 289
Toad got clear, 290
Wasps and Hornets not favored, 290
Ants—a word in their favor, 291
Spider condemned, 292
Wax-Moth unrivalled for mischief, 293
Indications of their presence, 296
Management, 296
Care in turning over Hives, 297
Other symptoms of Worms, 298
When they grow larger than usual, 299

Time of Growth, 299
Time of Transformation, 300
Freezing destroys Worms, Cocoon, and Moth, 300
How they pass the Winter, 301
Stocks more liable to be destroyed last of Summer, 301
When Bees are safe, 302
Means to destroy them, 302
Making them drunk and their execution by Chickens, 303

CHAPTER XX.
MELTING DOWN OF COMBS.

The Cause, 304
Effects, 304
First Indications, 305
Prevention, 305

CHAPTER XXI.
FALL MANAGEMENT.

First care, 307
Strong Stocks disposed to plunder, 307
Bees Changeable, 308
Requisites for good Stocks, 308
Great disadvantage of killing the Bees, 309
Section of country may make a difference in what poor
stocks need, 309
When Bees are needed, 310
Caution, 311
Principal Difficulty, 311
How Avoided, 311

Advantages of making one good stock from two poor ones, 312
Two families together will not consume as much as if
separate, 312
An Experiment, 312
Season for operating, 313
The Fumigator, 314
Directions for uniting two families, 315
Uniting with Tobacco Smoke, 317
Condition of Stocks in 1851, 318
How they were managed, 318
Cause of their superior Thrift, 319
Swarms partly filled pay better than to cut out the honey, 320
Advantages in transferring, 320
Another method of uniting two families, 321
Uniting Comb and Honey as well as Bees, 322
When feeding should be done for Stock Hives, 323

CHAPTER XXII.
WINTERING BEES.

Different methods have been adopted, 325
The idea of Bees not freezing has led to errors in practice, 326
Appearance of Bees in cold weather, 326
How part of the swarm is frozen, 327
How a small family may all freeze, 327
Frost and Ice sometimes smother Bees, 328
Frost and Ice in a Hive accounted for, 329
The effect of Ice or Frost on Bees and Comb, 330
Frost may cause starvation, 330
Other Difficulties, 330
Further Illustrations, 332

Accumulation of Fæces described by some writers as a
disease, 336
The Author's remedy, 337
Buying Bees, 337
Experiments of the Author to get rid of the Frost, 338
Success in this matter, 338
Bees when in the house should be kept perfectly dark, 339
A room made for wintering Bees, 339
Manner of stowing away Hives, 340
Temperature of room, 341
Too much Honey may sometimes be stored, 342
Management of room towards Spring, 342
Time for setting out Bees, 343
Not too many stocks taken out at once, 343
Families may be equalized, 344
Snow need not always prevent carrying out Bees, 344
Does not Analogy prove that Bees should be kept warm in
Winter? 345
The next best place for wintering Bees, 346
Evils of wintering in the open air considered, 347
But little risk with good stocks, 348
Effect of keeping second-rate stocks out of the sun, 348
Effects of Snow considered, 349
Stocks to be protected on some occasions, 350
Do the Bees eat more when allowed to come out
occasionally in Winter? 352

CHAPTER XXIII.
SAGACITY OF BEES.

Are not Bees directed alone by instinct? 353

What they do with Propolis, 353
Mending broken Combs, 354
Making passages to every part of their Combs, 355

CHAPTER XXIV.
STRAINING HONEY AND WAX.

Methods of removing Combs from the Hive, 357
Different modes of straining Honey, 358
Getting out Wax—different methods, 360

CHAPTER XXV.
PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES.

Why the word luck is applied to Bees, 362
Rule in taking Bees for a share, 364
A man may sell his "luck," 364
First-rate stocks recommended to begin with, 365
Old stocks are good as any if healthy, 365
Caution respecting diseased brood, 366
Result of ignorance in purchasing, 366
Size of Hives important, 367
How large Hives can be made smaller, 368
Moderate weather best to remove Bees, 369
Preparations for transporting Bees, 370
Securing Bees in the Hive, 370
Best Conveyance, 370
Hive to be inverted, 371
Conclusion, 372

PREFACE.
Before the reader decides that an apology is necessary for the introduction
of another work on bees into the presence of those already before the
public, it is hoped that he will have the patience to examine the contents of
this.

The writer of the following pages commenced beekeeping in 1828, without
any knowledge of the business to assist him, save a few directions about
hiving, smoking them with sulphur, &c. Nearly all the information to be
had was so mingled with erroneous whims and notions, that it required a
long experience to separate essential and consistent points. It was
impossible to procure a work that gave the information necessary for
practice. From that time to the present, no sufficient guide for the
inexperienced has appeared. European works, republished here, are of but
little value. Weeks, Townley, Miner, and others, writers of this country,
within a few years, have given us treatises, valuable to some extent, but
have entirely neglected several chapters, very important and essential to the
beginner. Keeping bees has been, and is now, by the majority, deemed a
hazardous enterprise. The ravages of the moth had been so great, and loss
so frequent, that but little attention was given to the subject for a long time.
Mr. Weeks lost his entire stock three times in fifteen years. But soon after
the discovery was promulgated, that honey could be taken from a stock
without destroying the bees, an additional attention was manifest,
increasing to a rage in many places. It seems to be easily understood, that
profit must attend success, in this branch of the farmer's stock; inasmuch as
the "bees work for nothing and find themselves." This interest in bees
should be encouraged to continue till enough are kept to collect all the
honey now wasted; which, compared with the present collections, would be
more than a thousand pounds to one. But to succeed, that is the difficulty.
Some eighteen years since, after a propitious season, an aged and esteemed
friend said to me, "It is not to be expected that you will have such luck
always; you must expect they will run out after a time. I have always

noticed, when people have first-rate luck for a time, that the bees generally
take a turn, and are gone in a few years."

I am not sure but, to the above remarks, may be traced the cause of my
subsequent success. It stimulated me to observation and inquiry. I soon
found that good seasons were the "lucky" ones, and that many lost in an
adverse season, all they had before gained. Also, that strong families were
the only ones on which I could depend for protection against the moth. This
induced the effort to ascertain causes tending to diminish the size of
families, and the application of remedies. Whether success has attended my
efforts or not, the reader can judge, after a perusal of the work.

It is time that the word "luck," as applied to beekeeping, was discarded. The
prevailing opinion, that bees will prosper for one person more than another,
under the same circumstances, is fallacious. As well might it be applied to
the mechanic and farmer. The careless, ignorant farmer, might occasionally
succeed in raising a crop with a poor fence; but would be liable, at any time,
to lose it by trespassing cattle. He might have suitable soil in the beginning,
but without knowledge, for the proper application of manures, it might fail
to produce; unless a chance application happened to be right.

But with the intelligent farmer the case is different: fences in order, manures
judiciously applied, and with propitious seasons, he makes a sure thing of it.
Call him "lucky" if you please; it is his knowledge, and care, that render him
so. So with bee-keeping, the careful man is the "lucky" one. There can be
no effect without a preceding cause. If you lose a stock of bees, there is a
cause or causes producing it, just as certain as the failure of a crop with the
unthrifty farmer, can be traced to a poor fence, or unfruitful soil. You may
rest assured, that a rail is off your fence of management somewhere, or the
proper applications have not been made. In relation to bees, these things
may not be quite so apparent, yet nevertheless true. Why is there so much
more uncertainty in apiarian science than other farming operations? It must
be attributed to the fact, that among the thousands who are engaged in, and
have studied agriculture, perhaps not more than one has given his energies

to the nature and habits of bees. If knowledge is elicited in the same ratio,
we ought to have a thousand times more light on one subject than the other,
and still there are some things, even in agriculture, that may yet be learned.

It is supposed, by many, that we already have all the knowledge that the
subject of bees affords. This is not surprising; a person that was never
furnished with a full treatise, might arrive at such conclusions. Unless his
own experience goes deeper, he can have no means of judging what is yet
behind.

In conversation relative to this work, with a person of considerable
scientific attainments, he remarked, "You do not want to give the natural
history of bees at all; that is already sufficiently understood." And how is it
understood; as Huber gives it, or in accordance with some of our own
writers? If we take Huber as a guide, we find many points recently
contradicted. If we compare authors of our day, we find them contradicting
each other. One recommends a peculiarly constructed hive, as just the thing
adapted to their nature and instincts. If a single point is in accordance with
their nature, he labors to twist all the others to his purpose, although it may
involve a fundamental principle impossible to reconcile. Some one else
succeeds in another point, and proceeds to recommend something
altogether different. False and contradictory assertions are made either
through ignorance, or interest. Interest may blind the judgment, and
spurious history may deceive.

It is folly to expect success in bee-keeping for any length of time, without a
correct knowledge of their nature and instincts; and this we shall never
obtain by the course hitherto pursued. As much of their labor is performed
in the dark, and difficult to be observed, it has given rise to conjecture and
false reasoning, leading to false conclusions.

When I say a thing is so, or say it is not so, what evidence has the reader
that it is proved or demonstrated? My mere assertions are not expected to be
taken in preference to another's; of such proof, we have more than enough.

Most people have not the time, patience, or ability, to set down quietly with
close observation, and investigate the subject thoroughly. Hence it has been
found easier to receive error for truth, than to make the exertion necessary
to confute it; the more so, because there is no guide to direct the
investigation. I shall, therefore, pursue a different course; and for every
assertion endeavor to give a test, that the reader may apply and satisfy
himself, and trust to no one. As for theories, I shall try to keep them
separate from facts, and offer such evidence as I have, either for or against
them. If the reader has further proof that presents the matter in another light,
of course he will exercise the right to a difference of opinion.

I could give a set of rules for practice, and be very brief, but this would be
unsatisfactory. When we are told a thing must be done, most of us, like the
"inquisitive Yankee," have a desire to know why it is necessary; and then
like to know how to do it. This gives us confidence that we are right. Hence,
I shall endeavor to give the practical part, in as close connection with the
natural history, that dictates it, as possible.

This work will contain several chapters entirely new to the public: the result
of my own experience, that will be of the utmost value to all who desire to
realize the greatest possible advantages from their bees.

The additions to chapters already partially discussed by others, will contain
much original matter not to be found elsewhere. When many stocks are
kept, the chapter on "Loss of Queens," alone, will, with attention, save to
any one, not in the secret, enough in one season to be worth more in value
than many times the cost of this work. The same might be said of those on
diseased brood, artificial swarms, wintering bees, and many others.

If such a work could have been placed in my hands twenty years ago, I
should have realized hundreds of dollars by the information. But instead of
this, my course has been, first to suffer a loss, and then find out the remedy,
or preventive; from which the reader may be exempt, as I can confidently
recommend these directions.

Another new feature will be found in the duties of each season being kept
by itself, commencing with the spring and ending with the winter
management.

In my anxiety to be understood by all classes of readers, I am aware that I
have made the elegant construction and arrangement of sentences of
secondary importance; therefore justly liable to criticism. But to the reader,
whose object is information on this subject, it can be of but little
consequence.

CHAPTER I.

A BRIEF HISTORY.

THREE KINDS OF BEES.

Every prosperous swarm, or family of bees, must contain one queen,
several thousand workers, and, part of the year, a few hundred drones.

QUEEN. WORKER. DRONE.

QUEEN DESCRIBED.

The queen is the mother of the entire family; her duty appears to be only to
deposit eggs in the cells. Her abdomen has its full size very abruptly where
it joins the trunk or body, and then gradually tapers to a point. She is longer
than either the drones or workers, but her size, in other respects, is a
medium between the two. In shape she resembles the worker more than the
drone; and, like the worker, has a sting, but will not use it for anything
below royalty. She is nearly destitute of down, or hairs; a very little may be
seen about her head and trunk. This gives her a dark, shining appearance, on
the upper side—some are nearly black. Her legs are somewhat longer than

those of a worker; the two posterior ones, and the under surface, are often
of a bright copper color. In some of them a yellow stripe nearly encircles
the abdomen at the joints, and meets on the back. Her wings are about the
same as the workers, but as her abdomen is much longer, they only reach
about two-thirds the length of it. For the first few days after leaving the cell,
her size is much less than after she has assumed her maternal duties. She
seldom, perhaps never, leaves the hive, except when leading a swarm, and
when but a few days old, to meet the drones, in the air, for the purpose of
fecundation. The manner of the queen's impregnation is yet a disputed
point, and probably never witnessed by any one. The majority of close
observers, I believe, are of opinion that the drones are the males, and that
sexual connection takes place in the air,1 performing their amours while on
the wing, like the humble-bee and some other insects. It appears that one
impregnation is operative during her life, as old queens are not afterwards
seen coming out for that purpose.

DESCRIPTION AND DUTY OF WORKERS.

As all labor devolves on the workers, they are provided with a sack, or bag,
for honey. Basket-like cavities are on their legs, where they pack the pollen
of flowers into little pellets, convenient to bring home. They are also
provided with a sting, and a virulent poison, although they will not use it
abroad when unmolested, but, if attacked, will generally defend themselves
sufficient to escape. They range the fields for honey and pollen, secrete
wax, construct combs, prepare food, nurse the young, bring water for the
use of the community, obtain propolis to seal up all crevices about the hive,
stand guard, and keep out intruders, robbers, &c., &c.

DESCRIPTION OF DRONES.

When the family is large and honey abundant, a brood of drones is reared;
the number, probably, depends on the yield of honey, and size of the swarm,

more than anything else. As honey becomes scarce, they are destroyed.
Their bodies are large and rather clumsy, covered with short hairs or
bristles. Their abdomen terminates very abruptly, without the symmetry of
the queen or worker. Their buzzing, when on the wing, is louder, and
altogether different from the others. They seem to be of the least value of
any in the hive. Perhaps not more than one in a thousand is ever called upon
to perform the duty for which they were designed. Yet they assist, on some
occasions, to keep up the animal heat necessary in the old hive after a
swarm has left.

MOST BROOD IN SPRING.

In spring and first of summer, when nearly all the combs are empty, and
food abundant, they rear brood more extensively than at any other period,
(towards fall more combs are filled with honey, giving less room for brood.)
The hive soon becomes crowded with bees, and royal cells are constructed,
in which the queen deposits her eggs. When some of these young queens
are advanced sufficiently to be sealed over, the old one, and the greater part
of her subjects, leave for a new location, (termed swarming.) They soon
collect in a cluster, and, if put into an empty hive, commence anew their
labors; constructing combs, rearing brood, and storing honey, to be
abandoned on the succeeding year for another tenement. One in a hundred
may do it the same season, if the hive is filled and crowded again in time to
warrant it. Only large early swarms do this.

THEIR INDUSTRY.

Industry belongs to their nature. When the flowers yield honey, and the
weather is fine, they need no impulse from man to perform their part. When
their tenement is supplied with all things necessary to reach another spring,
or their store-house full, and no necessity or room for an addition, and we
supply them with more space, they assiduously toil to fill it up. Rather than

to waste time in idleness, during a bounteous yield of honey, they have been
known to deposit their surplus in combs outside the hive, or under the stand.
This natural industrious habit lies at the foundation of all the advantages in
bee-keeping; consequently our hives must be constructed with this end in
view; and at the same time not interfere with other points of their nature;
but this subject will be discussed in the next chapter. Those peculiar traits in
their nature, mentioned in this, will be more fully discussed in different
parts of this work, as they appear to be called for, and where proof will be
offered to sustain the positions here assumed, which as yet are nothing more
than mere assertions.

CHAPTER II.

HIVES.

HIVES TO BE THOROUGHLY MADE.

Hives should be constructed of good materials, boards of good thickness,
free from flaws and cracks, well fitted and thoroughly nailed.

The time of making them is not very particular, providing it is done in
season. It certainly should not be put off till the swarming period, to be
made as wanted, because if they are to be painted; it should be done as long
as possible before, as the rank smell of oil and paint, just applied, might be
offensive to the bees.

But what kind of hive shall be made?

In answer, some less than a thousand forms have been given. The
advantages of bee-keeping depend as much upon the construction of hives,
as any one thing; yet there is no subject pertaining to them on which there is
such a variety of opinions, and I have but little hopes of reconciling all
these conflicting views, opinions, prejudices, and interests.

DIFFERENT OPINIONS ABOUT THEM.

One is in favor of the old box, and the cruel practice of killing the bees to
obtain the honey, as the only means to obtain "luck;" "they are sure to run
out if they meddle with them." Another will rush to the opposite extreme,
and advocate all the extravagant fancies of the itinerant patent-vender, as

the ne plus ultra of all hives, when perhaps it would be worth more for fire-
wood than the apiary.

THE AUTHOR HAS NO PATENT TO RECOMMEND.

To remove from the mind of the reader all apprehension that I am about
condemning one patent to recommend another, I would say in the
beginning, that I have no patent to praise, no interest in deceiving, and I
hope no prejudices to influence me, in advocating or condemning any
system. I wish to make bee-keeping plain, simple, economical, and
profitable; so that when we sum up the profit "it shall not be found in the
other pocket."

It is a principle recognized by our statute, that no person is suitable as a
Juror, who is biased either by interest or prejudice. Now whether I am the
impartial Jurist, is not for me to say: but I wish to discuss the subject fairly.
I hope some few will be enabled to see their own interest: at any rate,
dismiss prejudice, as far as possible, while we examine wherein one class in
community is unprofitable to bee-keepers.

SPECULATORS SUPPORTED LONG ENOUGH.

We have faithfully supported a host of speculators on our business for a
long time; often not caring one straw about our success, after pocketing the
fee of successful "humbuggery." One is no sooner gone, than we are beset
by another, with something altogether different, and of course the acme of
perfection.

PREFIX OF PATENT A BAD RECOMMENDATION.

This has been done until the very prefix of patent, or premium, attached to a
hive, renders it almost certain that there must be something deleterious to

the apiarian; either in expense of construction or intricate and perplexing in
management, requiring an engineer to manage, and a skilful architect to
construct.

What does the American savage, who without difficulty can track the
panther or wolf, know of the principles of chemistry? What does the
Chemist know of following a track in the forest, when nothing but withered
leaves can guide him? Each understands principles, the minutiæ of which
the other never dreamed.

IGNORANCE OF OFFICERS AND COMMITTEES.

Thus it appears to be with granting patents and premiums, if we take what
has been patented and praised by our committees and officers as
improvements in bee-culture. These men may be capable, intelligent, and
well fitted for their sphere, but in bee matters, about as capable of judging,
as the Hottentot would be of the merits of an intricate steam-engine.
Knowledge and experience are the only qualifications competent to decide.

OPPOSITION TO SIMPLICITY.

I am aware that among the thousands whose direct interest is opposed to my
simple, plain manner of getting along, many will be ready to contend with
me for every departure from their patent, improved or premium hives, as
the case may be.

BY GAINING ONE POINT, PRODUCE ANOTHER EVIL.

I think it will be an easy matter to show that every departure from
simplicity to gain one point, is attended in another by a correspondent evil,
that often exceeds the advantage gained. That we have made vast
improvements in art and science, and in every department of human affairs,

no one will deny; consequently, it is assumed we must correspondingly
improve in a bee-hive; forgetting that nature has fixed limits to the instinct
of the bee, beyond which she will not go!

It will be necessary to point out the advantages and objections to these
pretended improvements, and then we will see if we cannot avoid the
objections, and retain the advantages, without the expense, by a simple
addition to the common hive; because if we expect to encourage bee-
keeping, they must have better success than a neighbor of mine, who
expended fifty dollars for bees and a patent, and lost all in three years! Most
bee-keepers are farmers; very few are engineers sufficient to work them
successfully. I would say to all such as do not understand the nature of bees,
adhere to simplicity until you do, and then I am quite sure you will have no
desire for a change.

FIRST DELUSION.

Probably the first delusion in the patent line originated with the idea, that to
obtain surplus honey, it was absolutely necessary to have a chamber hive.
To get rid of the depredations of mice, the suspended hive was contrived.
The inclined bottom-board was then added to throw out the worms. To
prevent the combs from sliding down, the lower end was contracted.

The principle of bees rearing queens from worker-eggs when destitute, gave
rise to the dividing hive in several forms. Comb, when used several years,
becomes thickened and black, and needs changing; hence the changeable
hives, Non-swarmers have been introduced to save risk and trouble. Moth-
proof hives to prevent the ravages of worms, &c., &c.

CHAMBER HIVE.

The chamber hive is made with two apartments; the lower and largest is for
the permanent residence of the bees, the upper or chamber for the boxes. Its

merits are these: the chamber affords all the protection necessary for glass
boxes; considered as a cover, it is never lost. Its demerits are inconvenience
in handling; it occupies more room if put in the house in the winter; if glass
boxes are used, only one end can be seen, and this may be full when the
other may hold some pounds yet, and we cannot possibly know until it is
taken out. I know we are told to return such boxes when not full "and the
bees will soon finish them," but this will depend on the yield of honey at the
time; if abundant, it will be filled; if not, they will be very likely to take a
hint, and remove below what there is in the box; whereas if the chamber
was separate from the hive, and was not a chamber but a loose cap to cover
the boxes, it could be raised at any time without disturbing a single bee, and
the precise time of the boxes being filled ascertained, (that is, when they are
of glass.)

MRS. GRIFFITH'S HIVE.

Mrs. Griffith, of New Jersey, is said to have invented the suspended
chamber hive with the inclined bottom-board. One would suppose this was
sufficiently inconvenient to use, and difficult and expensive to construct.

WEEKS' IMPROVEMENT.

Yet Mr. Weeks makes an alteration, calls it an improvement, the expense is
but a trifle more; it is sufficient to be sanctioned by a patent. From front to
rear, the bottom is about three inches narrower than the top, somewhat
wedge-shape; it has the merit to prevent the combs from slipping down,
when they happen to be made, to have the edges supported. The objections
are, that filth from the bees will not fall as readily to the bottom as if every
side was perpendicular, and the extra trouble in constructing.

INCLINED BOTTOM-BOARDS DO NOT THROW OUT ALL THE
WORMS.

Inclined bottom-boards form the basis of one or two patents, said to be
good to roll out the worms. I can imagine a pea rolling off such a board; but
a worm is not often found in a rolling condition. Most of us know, that
when a worm drops from the combs, it is like the spider, with a thread
attached above. The only way that I can imagine one to be thrown out by
these boards, is to have it dead when it strikes it, or so cold that it cannot
spin a thread, and wind to shake the board, till it rolls off. The objections to
these boards are coupled with the suspended hive, with which they are
usually connected.

OBJECTIONS TO SUSPENDED HIVES.

All suspended hives must be objectionable to any one who wishes to know
the true condition of his bees at all times. Only think of the trouble of
unhooking the bottom-board, and getting down on your back, or twisting
your neck till your head is dizzy, to look up among the combs, and then see
nothing satisfactory for want of light; or to lift the hive from its supporters,
and turn it over. The operation is too formidable for an indolent man, or one
that has much other business. The examination would very probably be put
off till quite sure it would do no longer, and sometimes a few days after
that, when you will very often find your bees past remedy.

SEE BEES OFTEN.

"See your bees often," is a choice recipe,—it is worth five hundred dollars
at interest, even when you have but few stocks. How necessary then that we
have every facility for a close and minute inspection. How much easier to
turn up a hive that simply rests on a stand. Sometimes it is necessary to turn
the hive, even bottom up, and let the rays of the sun directly among the
combs, to see all the particulars. By this close inspection, I have often
ascertained the cause of some difficulty, and provided a remedy, thus saving

a good many that in a short time would have been lost; yet, with a little
help, were as valuable as any by another year.

HALL'S PATENT.

Mr. Hall has added a lower section to his hive, about four inches deep, with
two boards inside, like the roof of a house, to discharge the worms, &c.; but
as these boards would interfere with close inspection, they are
objectionable. Several other variations of inclined bottom-boards and
suspended hives have been contrived, to obtain a patent, but the objections
offered will apply to most of them. I shall not weary the reader by noticing
in detail every hive that has been patented; I think if I notice the principles
of each kind, it will test his patience sufficiently.

JONES' PATENT.

Jones' dividing hive was probably suggested by this instinctive principle of
the bee, viz.: when a stock by any accident loses its queen, and the combs
contain eggs or very young larvæ, they will rear another. Now if a hive is
constructed so as to divide the brood-combs, it would seem quite certain
that the half without a queen, would raise one; and we could multiply our
stocks without swarms, the trouble of hiving, and risk of their going to the
woods, &c.

AN EXPERIMENT.

Several years ago, I thought I had obtained a principle that would
revolutionize the whole system of bee management. In 1840 I constructed
such hives, and put in the bees to test by actual experiment, the utility of
what seemed so very plausible in theory. It would appear that this principle
suggested the same idea to Mr. Jones; perhaps with this difference: I think
he did not wait to test the plan thoroughly, before obtaining his patent in

'42. One vender of rights asserted that 63 stocks were made from one in
three years; but somehow a great many that obtained the rights, failed in
their expectations. From my experiments, I think I could guess at some of
the reasons.

Mr. A.—"Well, what are the reasons? give us your experience, if you
please, I am interested; I had the right for such a hive, and had a lot made to
order, that cost more money in the end than I shall ever pay again for
anything about bees."

Do not be too hasty, friend, I think I can instruct you to keep bees on
principles in accordance with their nature, which is very simple, so that if
you can be induced to try again, we will have the hives cost but little, at any
rate.

REASONS OF FAILURE IN DIVIDING HIVES.

The greatest difficulty with dividing hives, appeared to be here. It must be
constructed with a partition or division to keep the combs in each apartment
separate; otherwise, we make tearing work in the division. When bees are
first put into such hives, unless the swarm is very large, and honey
abundant, one apartment will be filled to the bottom before a
commencement is made in the other.

Mr. A.—"What difference can that make? It is necessary to have the hive
full; if it cannot be all filled at once, why let them fill part."

The difference is this. The first combs built by a swarm are for brood, and
store-combs afterwards, as needed; one apartment will be nearly filled with
all brood-combs, and the other with store-combs and honey. Now in the two
kinds of cells there is a great difference; those for breeding are near half an
inch in length, while those for storing are sometimes two inches or more;
totally unfit for breeding; until the bees cut them off to the proper length,
which they will not do, unless compelled for want of room, consequently

this side of store-combs is but little used for brood. When such hive is
divided, the chances are not more than one in four, that this apartment will
have any young bees of the proper age from which to raise a queen; if not,
and the old queen is in the part with the brood-comb, where she will be
ninety-nine times in a hundred, one half of the hive is lost for want of a
queen.

Mr. A.—"Ah! I think I now understand how I lost one-half of nearly every
hive I divided. I also lost some of them in the winter; there was plenty of
bees as well as honey; can you tell the cause of this?"

I will guess that they starved.

Mr. A.—"Starved! why, I said there was plenty of honey."

I understood it, but nevertheless feel quite sure.

Mr. A.—"I would like to see that made plain; I can't understand how they
could starve when there was honey!"

CAUSE OF STARVING IN SUCH HIVES.

I said one apartment would be filled with brood-combs; this will be
occupied, at least partially, with brood as long as the yield of honey lasts;
consequently, there will be but little room for storing here, but the other side
may be full throughout. The bees will take up their winter quarters among
the brood-combs. Now suppose the honey in this apartment is all exhausted
during a severe turn of cold weather, what can the bees do? If one should
leave the mass and go among the frosty combs for a supply, its fate would
be as certain as starvation. Without frequent intervals of warm weather to
melt all frost on the combs, and allow the bees to go into the other
apartment for honey, they must starve.

The cost of construction is another objection to this hive, as the labor
bestowed on one is more than would finish two, that would be much better.

ADVANTAGES OF THE CHANGEABLE HIVE CONSIDERED.

The value of changeable hives is based upon the following principle:—
Each young bee when it first hatches from the egg, is neither more nor less
than a worm; when it receives the necessary food, the bees seal it over; it
will then spin a cocoon, or line its cell with a coating of silk, less in
thickness than the thinnest paper: this remains after the bee leaves it. It is
evident, therefore, that after a few hundreds have been reared in a cell, and
each one has left its cocoon, that such cell must be somewhat diminished,
although the thickness of a dozen cocoons could not be measured; and this
old cell needs removing, that the bees may replace it with a new one. But
how shall it be done? This is a feat for the display of ingenuity. A common
man might go about it in a very sensible, simple manner, might possibly
turn the hive over, and cut out the old combs when necessary, without
knowing perhaps that the patent-vender could sell a receipt to do the thing
scientifically, the benefit of which would be many times on the principle of
a surgeon cutting off your head, to get a good chance to tie a small artery
according to system; or would show you a roundabout way of half a dozen
miles to accomplish what the same number of rods would do. Had we not
ocular demonstration of the fact, we could not suppose so many variations
for the same end could be invented. But if we reward ingenuity, it will be
stimulated to great exertions. Perhaps if we describe the merits of one or
two of this class, the utility of this principle may be comprehended.

VARIATION OF THESE HIVES.

First, then, the sectional hive of various patterns has been patented; it
consists generally of about three boxes, one above another; the top of each
has one large hole, or several small ones, or cross-bars, about an inch wide,
and half an inch apart; these holes or spaces allowing the bees to pass from
one box to the other. When all are full, the upper one is removed, and an
empty one put under the bottom; in this way all are changed, and the combs
renewed in three years; very easily and quietly done. This is as far as a

patent-vender wishes the subject investigated; and some of his customers
have not gone beyond this point. As an offset for these advantages, we will
first look at the cost of such hive.

EXPENSE IN CONSTRUCTING CHANGEABLE HIVES.

It is as much work to construct each separate section, as a common hive;
consequently, it is three times the expense to begin with. It is objectionable
for wintering bees, on the same principle as the dividing hive. I object to it
on another point: our surplus honey will never be pure, as each section must
be used for breeding, and every cell so used, will contain cocoons
corresponding to the number of bees raised.

SURPLUS HONEY WILL CONTAIN BEE-BREAD.

Also pollen, or bee-bread, is always stored in the vicinity of the young
brood; some of this will remain mixed with the honey, to please the palate
with its exquisite flavor. The majority will probably prefer all surplus honey
stored in pure comb, where it will be with proper management.

I will here give a full description of a hive on this principle, as I have the
description from one of its advocates, in the Dollar Newspaper,
Philadelphia: called Cutting's Patent Changeable Hive.

DESCRIPTION OF CUTTING'S CHANGEABLE HIVE.

"The size of the changeable hive most used in this section, has an outside
shell, made of inch boards, about two feet high and sixteen and a half
inches square, with a door hung in the rear. On the inside are three boxes or
drawers, which will hold about one thousand cubic inches each, and when
filled with honey, usually weigh about thirty-five pounds, which is a
sufficient amount of honey to winter a large swarm. The sides of these

drawers are made of boards, about half an inch thick; the tops and bottoms
of the lower drawers and ends of the upper drawers should be three-fourths
of an inch, and the drawers should be fourteen inches high, fourteen inches
from front to rear, and six and three-fourths inches wide. Two of these
drawers stand side by side, with the third placed flatwise upon the two, with
a free communication from one drawer to another, by means of thirty three-
fourth inch holes on the side of each drawer, and twenty-four in the bottom
of the upper drawer, and holes in the top and bottom of the lower drawers,
to correspond, and slides to cut off the communication when occasion may
require. Thus we see our hive may be one hive, with communication
sufficiently free throughout, or we may have three hives combined. The
drawers have tubes made in them, (for the bees to pass and repass), which
are made to go through the front side of the hive. The back-side of the
drawers are doors, with glass set in them. These drawers set up from the
bottom of the hive, and rest on pieces of wood, closely fitted in such a way,
as to make a space under the drawers for the dirt, dead bees, and water,
which collect in the bottom of hives in winter; between the drawers and the
outside is an air space of about one-third of an inch.

These hives, when well made and painted, will last many years, and those
doing much in the business will find it an advantage to have a few extra
drawers. Having given you some idea of the construction of the changeable
hive, I will proceed to notice some of the most important reasons why I
prefer this hive to any I have yet seen. First because the hive, being
constructed upon the changeable principle, so that by taking out a full
drawer, and placing an empty one in its stead, our comb is always kept new,
wherefore, the size of the bee is preserved, and kept in a more healthy, or
prosperous state, or condition, than when obliged to remain and continue to
breed, in the old comb, when the cells have become small. Secondly,
because small, late swarms may be easily united. Thirdly, because large
swarms may be easily divided. Fourthly, because however late a swarm
may come off, it may be easily supplied with honey for the winter, by
taking from a full hive a surplus drawer, and placing it in the hive of the late

swarm. Fifthly, because a column of air between the drawers and the
outside of the hive is a non-conductor of both heat and cold, preventing the
melting of the comb, and securing the bees against frost and cold."

Now here is a full description of perhaps as good a hive as any of its class;
it is given for the benefit of those who wish to go miles instead of rods; they
may know the road, especially as they can have the privilege by paying for
it: for myself, I had rather be excused,—why, reading the description has
nearly exhausted my patience; what should I do if I attempted to make one?

FIRST OBJECTION, COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

The first obstacle in the way (after the right is obtained) is the construction.
Let's see; we want inch boards to make the shell, three-quarter inch boards
for the tops and bottoms of drawers, half inch for sides, hinges to hang a
door, glass for back of drawers, tubes for the egress of the bees, and slides
to cut off communication. It will be necessary to get a mechanic, and a
workman too. Those 108 holes that must be bored, must match, or it is of no
use to make them. But few farmers would have the tools requisite, a still
less number the skill and patience to do it. What the cost might be by the
time a hive was ready to receive the bees, I could not say; but guess it might
be some three or four dollars.

HIVES CAN BE MADE WITH LESS EXPENSE.

The one I shall recommend, without paint, will not cost, or need not, over
37-1/2 cents, with cover, etc. Now, if we wish hives for ornament, it is well
enough to expend something for the purpose; but it is well not to refine too
much, as there are limits which, if passed, will render it unfit for bees.
Therefore, when profit is an object, the extra expense will or ought to be
made up by the bees, in return for an expensive domicil. But will they do it?
The merits of the one under consideration are fully given. "First, by taking

out a full drawer and putting in an empty one in its stead, the combs are
always kept new, and cells of full size." Now this fear of bees becoming
dwarfs in consequence of being reared in cells too small, has done more
mischief among the bees, and their owners' pockets, than if the fact had
never been thought, or heard of.

OLD BREEDING CELLS WILL LAST A LONG TIME.

These old cells do not need renewing half as often as has been represented.
It is the interest of these patent-venders to sell rights; this interest either
blinds their eyes as to facts, or lulls the internal monitor of right, while
acquisitiveness is gratified. The same cells can be used for breeding six or
eight years, perhaps longer, and no one can tell the difference by the size of
the bees; I have two stocks now in their tenth year without renewal of
comb. A neighbor of mine kept a stock twelve years in the same combs; it
proved as prosperous as any. I have heard of their lasting twenty, and am
inclined to believe it.

CELLS LARGER THAN NECESSARY AT FIRST.

The bees seem to make a provision for this emergency, the sheets of comb
are farther apart than actually necessary at first, the diameter of the cell is
also a little larger than the size of the young bee requires. Of this we are
certain—great many young bees can be raised in a cell, and not be
diminished in size, sufficient to be detected. The bottom fills up faster than
at the sides, and as they do so, the bees add a little to the length, until the
ends of these cells on two parallel combs approximate too close to allow the
bees to pass freely; before which time it is unnecessary to remove comb for
being old.

EXPENSE OF RENEWING COMBS.

One important item should be considered in this matter, by those who are so
eager for new combs. It is doubtful whether one in 500 ever thought of the
expense of renewing comb. I find it estimated by one writer,2 that twenty-
five lbs. of honey was consumed in elaborating about half lb. wax. This
without doubt is an over estimate, but no one will deny that some is used.

BEST TO USE OLD COMBS AS LONG AS THEY WILL ANSWER.

I am satisfied of this much, from actual experience, that every time the bees
have to renew their brood-combs in a hive, they would make from ten to
twenty-five lbs. in boxes, hence I infer that their time can be more
profitably employed than in constructing brood-combs every year. I would
also suggest that when combs have been once used for breeding it is the
best use they can be applied to, after that, as the cocoons render it unfit for
much else than a little wax.

METHOD FOR PRUNING WHEN NECESSARY.

But when the combs do actually need removing, I prefer the following
method of pruning, to driving the bees out entirely, as has been
recommended. It can be done in about an hour. As we are comparing the
merits of different methods of getting rid of old combs, I shall give mine
here, notwithstanding it may seem a little out of place.

The best time is a little before night. The first movement is to blow under
the hive some tobacco smoke (the best means of charming them I ever
found); the bees, deprived of all disposition to sting, retreat up among the
combs to get away from the smoke; now raise the hive from the stand and
carefully turn it bottom upwards, avoiding any jar, as some of the bees that
were in the top when the smoke was introduced, and did not get a taste, will
now come to the bottom to ascertain the cause of the disturbance; these
should receive a share, and they will immediately return to the top,

perfectly satisfied. When so many bees are in the hive, as to be in the way
in pruning, (which if there is not it is not worth it,) get an empty hive the
size of the old one, and set it over, stopping the holes; now strike the lower
hive with a hammer or stick, lightly and rapidly, five or ten minutes, when
nearly all the bees will be in the upper hive, and set that on the stand. There
being now nothing in the way, except a few scattering bees, that I will
warrant not to sting, unless you pinch or get them fast.

TOOLS FOR CUTTING OUT COMB.

The broad one is very readily made from a piece of an old scythe, about 18
inches long, by any blacksmith, by simply taking off the back, and forming
a shank for a handle at the heel. The end should be ground all on one side,
and square across like a carpenter's chisel. This is for cutting down the sides
of the hive; the level will keep it close the whole length, when you wish to
remove all the combs; it being square instead of pointed or rounded, no
difficulty will be found in guiding it,—it being very thin; no combs are
mashed by crowding.

The other tool is for cutting off combs at the top or any other place. It is
merely a rod of steel three-eighths of an inch diameter, about two feet long,
with a thin blade at right angles, one and a half inches long, and a quarter
inch wide, both edges sharp, upper side bevelled, bottom flat, &c. You will
find these tools very convenient; be sure and get them by all means, the cost
cannot be compared to the advantages.

Now with the tools just described, proceed to remove the brood-combs
from the centre of the hive. The combs near the top and outside are used but
little for breeding, and are generally filled with honey; these should be left

as a good start for refilling, but take out all that is necessary, while you are
about it; then reverse the hives, putting the one containing the bees under
the other; by the next morning all are up; now put it on the stand, and this
job is done without one cent extra expense for a patent to help you, and the
bees are much better off for the honey left, which has to be taken away with
all patent plans that I have seen, and this, as has been remarked, is not
worth much, occupied as it is with a few cocoons and bee-bread. It is worth
much more to the bees, and they will give us pure comb and honey for it.

USE OF TOBACCO SMOKE.

"I would not do it for fifty dollars, the bees would sting me to death." Stop a
moment, if you never tried the efficacy of tobacco smoke, you know
nothing of a powerful agent; this is the grand secret of success; without it, I
admit it would be somewhat hazardous; but with it, I have done it time after
time without receiving a single sting, and no protection whatever, for either
hands or face.

But is there no difficulty with our sectional or changeable hive, when this
feat is to be performed? The combs will be made in the two drawers similar
to the dividing hive, brood-combs in one side, and store-combs in the other.
We wish to remove the one with brood-combs of course, (as that is the one
where the combs are thick and bad, &c.) Where will the queen be? With the
brood-comb, where her duty is most likely to be; well, this is the one we
want, and we take it out. How is she to get back? She must go back, or we
have three chances in four of losing the stock; but her majesty will remain
perfectly easy, as well as some of the workers, wherever you put the drawer.

FURTHER OBJECTIONS TO A SECTIONAL HIVE.

I can see no other way but to break the box, look her up, and help the
helpless thing home, (the chances of being stung may be here too.) Now, for

a time at least, they must use the other drawer for breeding, where most of
the cells are unfit. There is altogether too great a proportion of drone-cells;
these, as well as the other size, will nearly all be much too long, and will
have to be cut off to the proper length, a waste of wax as well as labor.
Another thing might be set down per disadvantage of Mr. Cutting's hive; the
job of getting a swarm into such hive, at first, I fancy would not be
desirable to many. Now, when we strike the balance, putting expense,
difficulties, and perplexities on one side, and simplicity and economy on the
other, it appears like a "great cry for little wool." But stop a moment, four
other advantages are enumerated in its favor: second, third, and fourth are
borrowed from the common hive, or are all available here when required.
But fifthly, allows a "column of air between the drawers and outside of the
hive, is a non-conductor of heat and cold," &c. This is an advantage not
possessed by the common hive; neither does the common hive offer such
advantages to the moth, by affording such snug quarters for worms to spin
their cocoons, when they cannot be destroyed without considerable trouble.

NON-SWARMERS.

Here I will endeavor to be brief; I feel anxious to get through with this
disagreeable part, where every word I say will clash with somebody's
interest or prejudice. The merits of this hive are to obtain surplus honey
with but little trouble, which often succeeds in satisfying people of its
utility. The principal objection is found on the score of profit. Suppose we
start with one, call it worth five dollars in the beginning, at the end of ten
years it is worth no more, very likely not as much, (the chances of its
failing, short of that time, we will not take into the account;) we might get
annually, say five dollars worth of surplus honey, amounting to fifty dollars.

CONTRAST OF PROFIT.

The swarming hive, we suppose, will throw off one swarm annually, and
make us one dollar's worth of surplus honey, (we will not reckon that
yielded by the first swarm, which is often more than that from the old
stocks,) about one third of the average in good seasons. The second year
there will be two to do the same; take this rate for ten years, we have 512
stocks, either of them worth as much as the non-swarmer, and about a
thousand dollars worth of surplus honey. Call these stocks worth five
dollars each, which makes $2,560, all added together will make the snug
little sum of about $3,500, against $55. It is not to be expected that any of
us will realize profits to this extent, but it is a forcible illustration of the
advantages of the swarming hive over the non-swarmer.

PRINCIPLE OF SWARMING NOT UNDERSTOOD.

But many of these non-swarmers, 'tis said, can be changed to swarmers to
suit the convenience of the apiarian—Colton's is one. It is asserted that it
can be made to swarm within two days at any time, merely by taking off the
six boxes or drawers that are very ingeniously attached; as this contracts the
room, the bees are forced out. Now I will candidly confess that I could
never get this thing to work at all. Of this I am quite positive, that he (Mr.
Colton) is either ignorant of the necessary and regular preparations that bees
make before swarming, or supposes others are. Mr. Weeks has advocated
the same principle: he says, "There is no queen in any stage of existence, in
the old stock, immediately after the first swarm leaves it." I have examined
this matter till I am satisfied I risk but little in the bold assertion, that not
one stock in fifty will cast a swarm short of a week after commencing
preparations. This opinion will be adopted by whoever will take the trouble
to investigate for themselves. (The chapter on swarming will give the
necessary instructions for examining this point, if you wish.)

NOT TO BE DEPENDED UPON.

Further, these non-swarmers are not always to be depended upon as such.
They will sometimes throw off swarms when there is abundant room in the
hive as well as in the boxes.

HIVES NOT ALWAYS FULL BEFORE SWARMING.

I know Weeks, Colton, Miner and others, tell us the hive must be full before
we need expect a swarm; but experience is against them. Bees do
sometimes cast a swarm before filling the hive. From close observation, I
find when a hive is very large, say 4,000 cubic inches, and is filled with
comb, the first season, that such seldom swarm except in very good years.

SIZE OF HIVES NEEDED.

But if such hive is only half full, or 2,000 inches, it is very common for
them to swarm without adding any new comb; proving very conclusively
that a hive that size, is sufficient for all their wants in the breeding season.
When about 1,200 inches only had been filled the first year, I have known
them to add combs until they had filled about 1,800, and then cast a swarm,
proving also that a little less than 2,000 will do for breeding. I have tested
the principle of giving room to prevent swarming, a little further.

AN EXPERIMENT.

In the spring of '47, I placed under five full hives, containing 2,000 solid or
cubic inches, as many empty ones, the same size, without the top. I had a
swarm from each; but two had added any new comb, and these but little. If
these hives had been filled to the bottom with comb in the spring, it is very
doubtful whether either of them would have swarmed. The only place we
can put a good stock and not expect it to swarm in good seasons, is inside a
building, where it is perfectly dark, and even here a few have been known
to do it. If we could manage to get a very large hive filled with combs, it

would perhaps be as good a preventive as any. All the bees that could be
reared in one season, would have sufficient room in the combs ready made
for their labors, and there would be no necessity for their emigration. "But
what becomes of all the bees raised in the course of several years?" To this
question I shall not probably be able to give a satisfactory answer at
present.

BEES DO NOT INCREASE, IF FULL, AFTER THE FIRST YEAR, IN
SAME HIVE.

I only will notice the fact, that the bees somehow disappear, and there is no
more at the end of five years than at the end of one. A stock of bees may
contain 6,000 the first of May, and raise 20,000 in the course of the year; by
the first of the next May, as a general thing, not one more will be found,
even when no swarm had issued.

GILLMORE'S SYSTEM DOUBTED.

Now this fact is not known by a recent patentee from the State of Maine,
(else he supposes others do not,) as he recommends placing bees in a house,
and empty hives in connection with the one containing bees, and in a few
years all will be full. He has discovered a mixture to feed bees, (to be
noticed hereafter); this may account for an unusual quantity being stored by
an ordinary sized family. He said another thing, that is, each of these added
hives would contain a queen! This would seem to explain away the first
difficulty of the continued increase of bees, and so it would if it did not get
into another equally erroneous; one error never made another true. This idea
of bees raising a queen, merely because they have a side box to the main
hive, is contrary to all my experience, and to the experience of all writers
(except himself) that I have consulted. If the principle is correct, why not
sometimes raise a queen in a box on the top or side for us? I never
discovered a single instance, where two perfect queens were quietly about

their duties in connection with one hive. The deadly hostility of queens is
known to all observing apiarians. Not having the least faith in the principle,
I will leave it.

UTILITY OF MOTH-PROOF HIVES DOUBTED.

As for moth-proof hives, I have but little to say, as I have not the least faith
in one of them. When I come to speak of that insect, I will show, I think,
conclusively, that no place where bees are allowed to enter is safe from
them.

Several other perfect hives might be mentioned; yet I believe that I have
noticed the principles of each. Have I not said enough? Such as are not
satisfied now would not be if I filled a volume. Our view of things is the
result of a thousand various causes; the most powerful is interest, or
prejudice.

It is said that in Europe, the same ingenuity is displayed in twisting and
torturing the bee, to adapt her natural instinct to unnatural tenements;
tenements invented not because the bee needs them, but because this is a
means available for a little change. "Patent men" have found the people
generally too ignorant of apiarian science. But let us hope that their days of
prosperity in this line are about numbered.

INSTINCTS OF THE BEE ALWAYS THE SAME.

Let us fully understand that the nature of the bee, when viewed under any
condition, climate, or circumstance, is the same. Instincts first implanted by
the hand of the Creator, have passed through millions of generations,
unimpaired, to the present day, and will continue unchanged through all
future time, till the last bee passes from the earth. We may, we have, to
gratify acquisitiveness, forced them to labor under every disadvantage; yes,
we have compelled them to sacrifice their industry, prosperity, and even

their lives have been yielded, but never their instincts. We may destroy life,
but cannot improve or take from their nature. The laws that govern them are
fixed and immutable as the Universe.

Spring returns to its annual task; dissolves the frost, warms into life nature's
dormant powers. Flowers with a smile of joy, expand their delicate petals in
grateful thanks, while the stamens sustain upon their tapering points the
anthers covered with the fertilizing pollen, and the pistil springs from a cup
of liquid nectar, imparting to each passing breeze delicious fragrance,
inviting the bee as with a thousand tongues to the sumptuous banquet. She
does not need an artificial stimulus from man, as an inducement to partake
of the feast; without his aid or assistance she visits each wasting cup of
sweetness, and secures the tiny drop, while the superabundant farina,
dislodged from the nodding anthers, covers her body, to be brushed together
and kneaded into bread. All she requires at the hands of man, is a suitable
storehouse for her treasures. In good seasons, her nature Will prompt the
gathering for her own use an over supply. This surplus man may appropriate
to his own use, without detriment to his bees, providing his management is
in accordance with their nature.

PROFIT THE OBJECT.

To give the bees all necessary advantages, and obtain the greatest possible
amount of profit, with the least possible expense, has been my study for
years. I might keep a few stocks for amusement, even if it was attended
with no dollar and cent profit, but the number would be very small; I will
honestly confess then, that profit is the actuating principle with me. I have a
strong suspicion that the majority of readers have similar motives. I am
sure, then, that all of us with these views, will consider it a pity, when a
stock produces five dollars worth of surplus honey, to be obliged to pay
three or four of it for patent and other useless fixings.

COMMON HIVE RECOMMENDED.

I would not exchange the hive I have used for the last ten years for any
patent I ever saw, if furnished gratis. I will guarantee that it affords means
to obtain surplus honey, as much in quantity and in any way which fancy
may dictate, whether in wood or glass, and what is more than all, it shall
cost nothing for the privilege of using.

SIZE IMPORTANT.

After deciding what kind of hive we want, the next important point is the
size. Dr. Bevan, an English author, recommends a size "eleven and three-
eighths inches square, by nine deep in the clear," making only about 1,200
inches, and so few pounds necessary to winter the bees, that when I read it,
I found myself wondering if the English inch and pound were the same as
ours.

SMALL HIVES MORE LIABLE TO ACCIDENTS.

At all events, I think it too small for our Yankee bees in any place. We must
remember, that the queen needs room for all her eggs, and the bees need
space to store their winter provisions; for reasons before given, this should
be in one apartment. When this is too small, the consequences will be, their
winter supply of food is liable to run out. The swarms from such will be
smaller and the stock much more liable to accidents, which soon finish
them off.

APT TO DECEIVE.

Yet I can imagine how one can be deceived by such a small hive, and
recommend it strongly; especially if patented. Suppose you locate a large
swarm in a hive near the size of Dr. Bevan's; the bees would occupy nearly

all the room with brood-combs; now if you put on boxes, and as soon as
filled put on empty ones, the amount of surplus honey would be great; very
satisfactory for the first summer, but in a year or two your little hive is
gone. This result will be in proportion as we enlarge our hives, until we
arrive at the opposite extreme.

UNPROFITABLE IF TOO LARGE.

If too large, more honey will be stored than is required for their winter use.
It is evident a portion might have been taken, if it had been stored in boxes.
The swarms will not be proportionably large when they do issue, which is
seldom—but there is this advantage, they last a long time, and are but little
profit in surplus honey, or swarms.

CORRECT SIZE BETWEEN TWO EXTREMES.

Between the two extremes, like most other cases, is found the correct place.
A hive twelve inches square, each way, inside, has been recommended as
the correct size. Here are 1,728 cubic inches. This, I think, is sufficient for
many places, as the queen probably has all the room necessary for
depositing her eggs; and as the swarms are more numerous, and nearly as
large as from hives much larger; also, there is room for honey sufficient to
carry the bees through the winter, at least, in many sections south of 40
degrees latitude, where the winter is somewhat short.

SIZE FOR WARM LATITUDES.

This size will also do in this latitude (42 degrees,) in some seasons, but not
at all in others.3 Not one swarm in fifty will consume twenty-five lbs. of
honey through the winter, that is, from the last of September to the first of
April, (six months). The average loss in that time is about eighteen lbs.; but

the critical time is later; about the last of May, or first of June, in many
places.

LARGER HIVE MORE SAFE FOR LONG WINTERS OR
BACKWARD SPRING.

About the first of April they commence collecting pollen and rearing their
young; by the middle of May all good stocks will occupy nearly, if not quite
all, their brood-combs for that purpose, but little honey is obtained before
fruit blossoms appear; when these are gone, no more of any amount is
obtained until clover appears, which is some ten days later. (I am speaking
now particularly of this section; I am aware it is very different in other
places, where different flowers exist.) Now if this season of fruit flowers
should be accompanied by high winds, or cold rainy weather, but little
honey is obtained; and our bees have a numerous brood on hand that must
be fed. In this emergency, if no honey is on hand of the previous year, a
famine ensues; they destroy their drones, perhaps some of their brood, and
for aught I know put the old bees on short allowance. This I do know, that
the whole family has actually starved at this season; sometimes in small
hives. This of course depends on the season; when favorable, nothing of the
kind occurs. Prudence therefore dictates the necessity of a provision for this
emergency, by making the hive a little larger for northern latitudes, as a
little more honey will be stored to take them through this critical period.
From a series of experiments closely observed.

2,000 INCHES SAFE FOR THIS SECTION.

I am satisfied that 2,000 inches in the clear, is the proper size for safety in
this section, and consequently, profit. On an average, swarms from this size
are as large as any.

The dimensions should be uniform in all cases, whatever size is decided on.
It is folly to accommodate each swarm with a hive corresponding in size; a
very small family this year, may be very large next, and a very large one,
very small, &c. A queen belonging to a small swarm will be capable of
depositing as many eggs, as another belonging to a barrel full. A small
family able to get through the winter and spring, may be expected by
another year to be as numerous as any.

KIND OF WOOD, WIDTH OF BOARD, ETC.

Of the kinds of wood for hives, pine is preferable, still other kinds will do; I
have no faith in bees liking one kind better than another, and less likely to
leave on that account. Hemlock is cheaper, and used to a great extent; when
perfectly sound is as good as anything, but is very liable to split, even after
the bees have been in them some time. It should be used only when better
wood cannot be obtained. Bass wood when used for hives should always be
painted, and then will be very liable to warp from the moisture arising from
the bees inside. When not painted outside, and allowed to get wet, if only
for a few hours, so much moisture is absorbed that it will bend outward, and
cleave from the combs and crack them. A few days of dry weather will
relieve the outside of water, and the inside kept moist by the bees, the
bending will be reversed, and the combs pressed inward, keeping the bees
fixing that which will not "stay fixed." Perhaps there is wood as suitable or
better than pine, but it is not as common.

SHAPE OF NO CONSEQUENCE.

Boards should be selected, if possible, that will be the proper width to make
the hive about square, of the right size. Say twelve inches square, inside, by
fourteen deep. I prefer this shape to any other, yet it is not all important. I
have had some ten inches square by twenty in length; they were awkward
looking, but that was all, I could discover no difference in their prosperity.

Also, I have had them twelve inches deep by thirteen square, with the same
result. Hence, if we avoid extremes, and give the required room, the shape
can make but little difference.

It has been recommended to plane the boards for hives, "inside and out;"
but bees, when first put into such hive, find much difficulty in holding fast
until they get their combs started, hence this trouble is worse than useless.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HIVES.

If hives are not desired of the cheapest possible construction, the outside
may be planed and painted; but it is doubtful whether strict economy would
demand it. Yet a painted hive appears so much better, that it ought to be
done, especially as the paint adds almost enough to its durability to pay the
expense. The color may be whatever fancy dictates; the moth will not
probably be attracted by one color more than another. White is affected the
least by the sun in hot weather. Lime is put on as white-wash, annually, by
many, as a protection against insects.

When hives are not painted, the grain should never be crosswise, having the
width of boards form the height; not that the bees would have any dislike to
such, but nails will not hold firmly, they draw out in a few years. The size,
shape, materials, and manner of putting together, are now sufficiently
understood, for what I want. Sticks half an inch in diameter, should cross
each way through the centre, to help support the combs. A hole about an
inch diameter in the front side, half way to the top, is a great convenience
for the bees to enter when coming home heavy laden.

It now remains to make the top, cover, and boxes, (the bottom-board will be
described in another chapter.) The tops should be all alike; boards fifteen
inches square are just the right size; three-fourths of an inch is the best
thickness, (inch will do;) plane the upper side, rabbet out around the edge of

the upper side one inch wide, and three-eighths deep; this will leave the top
inside the rabbeting, just thirteen inches.

SIZE OF CAP AND BOXES.

A box for a cover or cap, that size inside, will fit any hive. The height of
this box should be seven inches. Of course other sizes will do, but it is best
to commence with one that we can adhere to uniformly, and no vexations
arise by covers not fitting exactly, &c. I think this size is as near correct as
we shall be likely to get; we want all the room in the boxes that the majority
of our stocks demand for storing in a yield of honey,4 at the same time not
be necessitated to give too much of the room in the height. They will
commence work in a box five inches high, much sooner than one seven or
eight. To give the requisite room, and have the boxes less than five inches
high, would require more than thirteen inches on the top, this would make
the hive too much out of shape; it would appear top-heavy.

MINER'S HIVE.

Miner's Equilateral Hive has a cap somewhat smaller than this in diameter;
consequently, if we have the requisite room, it must be in its height. But by
making the cap of his a little larger, and a few trifling alterations, it would
do very well for a patent. And if any one must have a patent hive, my advice
is to get that; it costs but two dollars for the right of using, and is nearer
what we want for bees, than any I ever saw. I prefer rabbeting around the
edge of the top, instead of nailing on a thin board the size of the inside of
the cover, with room for a slide under it; it affords too nice a place for
worms to spin their cocoons. Also, without the rabbeting water may get
under the cap, and pass along the top till a hole lets it among the bees. As
for slides, I do not approve of them at all; in shutting off communication, it
is almost certain to crush a few bees. This makes them irritable for a week;
they are unnecessary for me, at least. We will now finish the hive.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HOLES.

After the top is got out as directed, strike a line through the centre, three and
a quarter inches from this, make another on each side, now measure on one
of the last lines, two and a half inches for the first hole, two inches for the
next, and so on till five are marked on this, and the same number on the
other side, ten in all; these holes should be about an inch diameter, a pattern
three and a quarter inches wide, and thirteen in length, with places for holes
marked on it, will save time when many are made. When this top is nailed
on, the hive is ready. A less number of holes is often used, and one is
thought by some to be sufficient; experience has satisfied me that the more
room bees have to enter boxes, the less reluctance is manifested in
commencing their work in them; but here is another extreme to be avoided:
when the holes are much larger, or more of them, or even one very large
one, the queen is very apt to go into the boxes and deposit her eggs, which
renders the comb tough, dark, &c., also bee-bread is stored near the brood.
Dr. Bevan's and Miner's cross-bar hives are objectionable on this account,
they offer too free access to the boxes; we want all the room that will
answer, and no more.

A SUGGESTION.

Mr. Miner's cross-bar hive is intended to make the bees construct all straight
combs, and probably will do it. But the disadvantage of bee-bread and
brood in the boxes will not be made up by straight combs.

For the benefit of those who have been made to believe straight combs all
important, and perhaps have purchased the right to make the hive, and had
some constructed, and have found bee-bread in their surplus honey, I would
suggest an improvement, (that is, if it is thought the straight combs will pay.
If you have not the right for the cross-bar hive, and you wish to use it, I
would say, buy the right, and remove all grounds of complaint with him.)
Put in the bars and hive your bees as he directs. After all the combs are

started, instead of setting the open bottom boxes (which are also unsuitable
for sending to market) directly on the bars as he recommends, take off the
cloth, and with screws fasten on a top with ten holes, that I have just
described; and then you will have the straight combs, and surplus honey in
the boxes pure.

GLASS BOXES PREFERRED.

Having told how I make a hive, I will now give some reasons for preferring
a particular kind of boxes. I have taken great quantities of honey to market,
put up in every style, such as tumblers, glass jars, glass boxes, wooden
boxes with glass ends, and boxes all wood. I have found the square glass
boxes the most profitable; the honey in such appears to the best possible
advantage, so much so, that the majority of purchasers prefer paying for the
box at the same rate as the honey, than the wood box, and have the tare
allowed. This rate of selling boxes always pays the cost, while we get
nothing for the wood. Another advantage in this kind of boxes is, while
being filled, the progress can be watched, and the time they are finished
known precisely, when they should be taken off, as every day they remain
after that, soils the purity of the combs.

GLASS BOXES—HOW TO MAKE.

Directions for making.—Select half-inch boards of pine or other soft light
wood, cut the length twelve and three-quarters inches, width six and three-
eighths inches, dress down the thickness to three-eighths or less, two pieces
for a box, top and bottom, in the bottom bore five holes throughout the
centre to match with those in the top of the hive, (the pattern used in
marking the top of hives is just the one to mark these). Next, get out the
corner posts, five-eighths of an inch square, and five inches in length; with
a saw, thick enough to fit the glass, cut a channel length-wise on two sides,
one-fourth of an inch deep, one-eighth from the corner, for the glass. A

small lath nail through each corner of the bottom into the posts will hold
them; it is now ready for the glass—10×12 is the right size to get—have
them cut through the centre the longest way for the sides, and they are right,
and again the other way, five and five-eighths long for the ends. These can
now be slipped into the channels of the posts, and the top nailed on like the
bottom, and the box is ready.

GUIDE-COMBS NECESSARY.

It will be found a great advantage, previous to nailing on the top, to stick
fast to it some pieces of guide-combs in the direction you wish the bees to
work. They are also an inducement for them to commence several days
sooner, than if they had to start combs for themselves;5 a piece an inch
square will do; it is well to start every comb you want in the box; two
inches apart is about the right distance to look well. To make these pieces
hold fast, melt one edge by the fire, or candle, or melt some bees-wax, and
dip one edge in that, and apply it before cooling; with a little practice you
can make them stick without difficulty. For a supply of such combs, save all
empty, clean, white pieces you can, when removing combs from a hive.

If you have any way superior to this for making glass boxes, so much the
better, make them so by all means: "The best way is as good as any." I give
my method to be used only when better is not convenient. If you sell honey,
I think you will find it an advantage to have glass boxes made in some way.
Two of this size when full weigh 25 lbs. If preferred, four boxes six and
three-eighths inches square, can be used for a hive instead of two; the
expense of making is a little more for the same number of lbs., yet, when it
is in market, a few customers will prefer this size.

WOOD BOXES.

For home consumption, the wood-box will answer equally well for all
purposes of obtaining the honey, but will give no chance to watch the
progress of the bees, unless a glass is inserted for the purpose, and then it
will need a door to keep it dark, or a cover over the whole like the one for
glass boxes, may be put on. Wood boxes are generally made with open
bottom, and set on the top of the hive. A passage for the bees out of the box
to the open air is unnecessary, and worse than useless. They like to store
their honey as far from the entrance as possible. Unless crowded for room,
they will not store much there when such entrances are made.

Whether we intend to consume our surplus honey or not, it is as well to
have the hives and covers made in a manner that we can use glass, when we
are likely to have some to spare. I am not sure, but it would pay to make
hives in this way, even if glass boxes were never used; the rabbeting
prevents light as well as water from passing under the cover; imagine a box
set on a plain board nailed on for a top, without the rabbeting; the warping
or bending admits the light and water, especially when hives are out in the
weather, (and I shall not recommend any other way of keeping them.)

COVER FOR HIVES.

I have termed the cap or box a cover; but this should also be covered with a
board laid on, if nothing else. A good roof for each hive can be made by
fastening two boards together like the roof of a building; let it be about 18
by 24 inches; it being loose, can be changed in accordance with the season;
in spring, let the sun strike the hive; but in hot weather let the longest end
project over the south side, &c. You can ornament this hive, if you choose,
by mouldings or dentals, under the top, where it projects over the body of
the hive, also the cap can have the top projected a little and receive the
same addition.

JARS AND TUMBLERS—HOW PREPARED.

When jars, tumblers, or other vessels, that are all glass, are used, it is
absolutely necessary to fasten as many pieces of combs as you wish made,
in the top, for a beginning, or fasten a piece of wood there; as they seldom
commence building on glass, without a start.

Some of you may have seen paraded at our fairs, or in the public parts of
some of our cities, hives containing tumblers, some of them neatly filled,
others empty, and this meagre sentence written upon them, not to be filled!
Pretending to govern the bees, as the juggler sometimes does his tricks, by
mysterious incantations! I once encountered an agent of this humbug, and
modestly suggested to him that I had a counter charm: that I could put a
tumbler on his hive and it would be filled if the others were, however much
he might forbid it by written charms! He saw at a glance how the matter
stood; I was not the customer he wanted, and intimated that the show was
only intended for the extreme verdancy of most visitors. It no doubt assisted
in displaying his profound knowledge in bee management, which he wished
to establish, as he had a little work on the subject to sell, also hives, and
bees. The reader no doubt will guess as I did, the reason that those tumblers
were not filled, was because no combs were put in for a start.

PERFECT OBSERVATORY HIVE DESCRIBED.

There are many things pertaining to bees that cannot be properly examined
and understood, without a glass hive of some sort. Yet a perfect observatory
hive containing but one comb, is not a perfect hive for the bees. We can see
very well what the bees are doing, but it is not a tenement they would
choose if left to themselves. It forces them to labor in an unnatural manner,
is unsuitable for wintering bees, and otherwise but little profit. If the
satisfaction of witnessing some of their operations more perfectly than in
glass hives of another kind will not pay, it is doubtful if we get it. I will
describe as briefly as possible. Two frames or sashes about two and a half
feet square, containing glass, are so fastened together as to leave room for
only one comb between them, about an inch and three-fourths apart. A

comb of this size will not support itself by the top and edges; hence, it is
necessary to put in numerous cross-bars to assist in supporting it. Outside
the glass are doors to keep the whole dark, to be opened when we wish to
inspect proceedings. Under the bottom is a board or frame, to keep it in an
upright position, &c. Probably but few will be induced to make one. I will
therefore describe another; a hive that I think will pay better.

ONE LIKE COMMON HIVE PREFERRED.

If we expect to know what bees are doing in ordinary hives, we must have
one similar in every respect, in size, shape, number of bees, &c. The
construction of royal cells will be watched by most observers with the
greatest interest; now these are generally on one edge of the combs. The
bees leave a space half an inch or more between the edges of the combs and
one side of the hive, near half the length of it, apparently for no other
purpose but to have room for these cells, as the other edges of the same
combs are generally attached to the hive at the bottom.

WHAT MAY BE SEEN.

Now instead of having one piece or pane of glass in the side of several
hives, I would recommend having one or more with glass on every side;
because we might have it on three sides, and not the fourth; and this might
contain all the queen cells, and we should miss an important sight. There
are many other things to be witnessed in such a hive. The queen may be
often seen depositing her eggs! We may see the workers detach the scales of
wax from their abdomen, and apply them to the combs during the process
of construction, see them deposit pollen from their legs, store their honey,
feed the queen, each other, their young brood, seal over cells containing
brood, honey, &c. It is further useful as a guide for putting boxes on other
hives, (that is, if it is a good one, which it should be); we can easily
ascertain whether our bees are gaining or losing.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING GLASS HIVE.

My method of making them is as follows: The top is like those for other
hives, fifteen inches square, adapted to boxes and cover. This hive we want
to be as profitable as any, giving us surplus honey, and swarms like others.
Four posts are then got out, two inches square, and thirteen in length; care
should be taken to have the ends perfectly square.

A frame is then to be made, just fourteen inches square outside, for the
bottom; the pieces are one inch thick, by two in width, halved together at
the corners. A guage-mark is then made around the under side of the top,
half an inch from the edge, a post is then set inside of each corner of this
mark, and thoroughly nailed, the bottom is nailed on with the posts even
with the outside corners. Four pieces an inch thick, and an inch and a half
wide, are fitted between the posts, even with the guage-mark on the top.
Sixteen strips, about one quarter by half an inch, are got out, eight to be ten,
and eight twelve inches long.

A gauge-mark one inch from posts, bottom, &c., is the place to nail these
strips; very small nails or tacks will hold them. The panes of glass are to
rest against them, which are held in their places by small pieces of tin, or
brads. The doors are the size of the glass, 10×12, about three-fourths of an
inch thick; these doors are cut a little too short, and the pieces, to prevent
warping, are nailed on the ends; these are hung to a post on one side, and
secured by a button on the other. On two opposite sides inside the posts,
half way up, two strips, half an inch by three quarters, are nailed, with holes
in them for the cross-sticks; one way is enough if you have guide-combs for
a start, like those recommended for boxes, so that the sheets will be at right
angles with them; otherwise, let the sticks cross both ways, about three each
way will be needed, as the glass at the edges is not so good a support as
wood.

The cap can be made of half inch boards; the top to project over like the
hive, or let it be a little more than half an inch, it will admit a heavier

moulding, which should surround it here, as well as at the top of the hive, or
if it is prefered, dentals can be used, and look equally well—when no
ornament is wanted, omit it. But painting seems necessary for such hives, to
prevent warping, and the swelling of the doors in wet weather; these want
to open and shut without rubbing or sticking, otherwise we disturb the bees
every time a door is stirred. Putty should not be used to hold the glass, as
the bees in the course of a few years will cover it with propolis; it is then
necessary to take it out, and scrape, clean, and return it, when, if fastened
with putty, it would be difficult; cold weather is the time for this operation. I
am aware that a hive can be more substantially made than the one here
described; but I have endeavored to make one as cheap as possible, and if
properly made, will answer. The cost will be much less than many patents,
and the satisfaction much more, at least, with many. When our hive contains
a swarm of bees, and they are thoroughly in operation, we must not let them
pass out at the bottom on every side, as they are frequently allowed to do
from other hives; because, should one come out a little excited in
consequence of a slight jar, accidentally given the hive, on opening the door
or some other way, and should find our face within a foot of their house,
peering in the window among their works, it would be very likely to give us
a gentle hint that it was a mark of low breeding, that we were not wanted
there at all, and that it was none of our business what they were doing. To
prevent this as far as possible, a bottom-board, somewhat different from the
common one, is needed. Four posts of chestnut or other lasting wood, about
two inches square, are driven into the earth in the form of a square, far
enough apart to come under the corners of the bottom-board, (fifteen
inches,) and high enough for convenience when looking into the hive. The
ends of these posts are to be perfectly level, and to which the bottom is to
be nailed fast. As the hive is to sit perfectly close to the board, a passage
must be made through it, as well as means for ventilation in hot weather,
without raising the hive for that purpose. It requires a board about fifteen
inches square, planed smooth, the ends clamped to prevent warping or
splitting; a portion of the centre is taken out, say six inches by ten, and wire
cloth nailed over, four-ounce tacks will hold it, fasten it just enough to keep

the bees from getting through; very likely it will want to be taken off
occasionally and cleaned from the propolis that will be spread over it. It is
easiest done in freezing weather.

Take an edge in each hand, and rock the wires a few times out of square,
and it will readily crumble and fall out. In warm weather it must be scalded
or burnt off. To close this space, a moving slide is fixed in grooves under-
side, fastened to the posts or board. The slide is to be moved in accordance
with the weather, when cold, close it, when hot, withdraw it, and give the
bees as much air as possible, without raising the hive, the whole of such
space is as much ventilation as ordinary hives raised an inch. (Wire cloth is
needed for other purposes, it is best to procure some, even at considerable
trouble and expense.) On the side of the board intended for the front, two
inches from the edge of the wire cloth, a passage is cut for the bees, three-
eights of an inch wide, by eleven in length. "But how is the bees to get to
this place, so inconvenient, something is needed to assist them?" Certainly,
Sir; an alighting board, eleven inches wide, and about two feet long, (not
planed), is placed at an angle of forty-five degrees, between the two front
posts of your stand, the upper end passing under the bottom, far enough
back; to be just even with the back-side of the passage for the bees. The
bees alight on this board, and walk up into the hive without difficulty. When
the bees are at work pretty freely, and a door of this hive is opened, those
that are about departing will be very likely to get on the glass, instead of
through the opening at the bottom; seeing the light through the glass, they
endeavor to escape by the nearest route. When so many gather here as to
prevent a good view, and you wish to observe further, shut the door a
moment and they will leave through their own passage, when you can open
your door again, for a short time. After the hive is filled with combs, the
number attracted to the glass on opening a door will be much less.

The plate on the preceding page represents a glass hive, cover, and stand.
The common hive can be made equally ornamental, if you choose; this kind
of stand is unnecessary for them. I use such as are recommended on page
138.

CHAPTER III.

BREEDING.

IMPERFECTLY UNDERSTOOD.

The time that bees commence raising their young brood is but imperfectly
understood by most people. Many persons that have kept them for years,
have bestowed so little attention on this point, that they are unable to tell at
what time they commence, how they progress, or when they cease. A kind
of an idea that one swarm, and occasionally two or three, are reared
sometime in June, or fore part of summer, is about the extent of their
reflections on the subject. Whether the drones deposit the eggs, or that a
portion of the workers are females, and each raise a young one or two, or
whether the "king bee" is the chap for laying eggs, is a matter beyond their
ability to answer. It is but a few years since, that a correspondent of a
Journal of Agriculture denied the existence of a queen bee, giving the best
reasons he had, no doubt, that is, he had never seen one. But bee-keepers of
this class are so few, it is unnecessary to waste time to convince them;
suffice it to say, that a queen exists with every prosperous swarm, and all
apiarians with much pretensions to science, acknowledge the fact, also, that
she is the mother of the whole family.

The period at which they commence depositing eggs probably depends on
the strength of the colony, amount of honey on hand, &c., and not the time
they commence gathering food.

GOOD STOCK SELDOM WITHOUT BROOD.

I once removed the bees from a hive on the tenth of January, and found
brood amounting to about five hundred, sealed over, and others in every
stage of growth down to the egg.

This hive had been in the house, and kept warm; it will doubtless be
supposed that being kept warm was the cause; but this is not a solitary
instance. A neighbor lost a hive the fourteenth February, in weather cold
enough to seal the entrance with ice, and smother the bees. I assisted to
remove the combs, and found young brood in abundance, from the perfect
bee, through all stages of growth. This stock had been in the cold all winter.
I have further noticed, when sweeping out the litter under the hives early in
spring, say the first of March, that young bees would often be found under
the best stocks. Hence it appears there is but little time, and perhaps none,
when our best stocks have no broods. Yet stocks, when very weak, do not
commence till warm weather. It seems that a certain degree of warmth is
necessary to perfect the brood, which a small family cannot generate.

HOW SMALL STOCKS COMMENCE.

The first eggs are deposited in the centre of the cluster of bees, in a small
family; it may not be in the centre of the hive in all cases; but the middle of
the cluster is the warmest place, wherever located. Here the queen will first
commence; a few cells, or a space not larger than a dollar, is first used,
those exactly opposite on the same comb are next occupied. If the warmth
of the hive will allow, whether mild weather produces it, or the family be
large enough to generate that which is artificial, appears to make no
difference; she will then take the next combs exactly corresponding with the
first commencement but not quite as large a place is used as in the first
comb. The circle of eggs in the first is then enlarged, and more are added in
the next, &c., continuing to spread to the next combs, keeping the distance
to the outside of the circle of eggs, to the centre or place of beginning, about
equal on all sides, until they occupy the outside comb. Long before the
outside comb is occupied, the first eggs deposited are matured, and the

queen will return to the centre, and use these cells again, but is not so
particular this time to fill so many in such exact order as at first. This is the
general process of small or medium sized families. I have removed the bees
from such, in all stages of breeding, and always found their proceedings as
described.

DIFFERENT WITH LARGER ONES.

But with very large families, their proceedings are different: as any part of
the cluster of bees is warm enough for breeding, there is less necessity for
economizing heat, and having all the eggs confined to one small spot, some
unoccupied cells will be found among the brood; a few will contain honey
and bee-bread.

HOW POLLEN IS STORED IN THE BREEDING SEASON.

But in the height of the breeding season, a circle of cells nearly all bee-
bread, an inch or two wide, will border the sheets of comb containing
brood. As bee-bread is probably the principal food of the young bee, it is
thus very convenient.

When pollen is abundant, and the swarm is in prosperous condition, they
soon reach the outside sheets of comb with the brood. At this period, when
the hive is about full, and the queen is forced to the outside combs to find a
place for her eggs, it is interesting to witness operations in a glass hive. I
have seen her several times during one day, on the same piece of comb
(next the glass). The light has no immediate effect on her "Highness," as she
will quietly continue about her duty, not the least embarrassed by curious
eyes at the window. Before depositing an egg, she enters the cell head first,
probably to ascertain if it is in proper condition to receive it; as a cell part
filled with bee-bread or honey is never used. If the area of combs is small,
or the family is small, and cannot protect a large space with the necessary

heat, she will often deposit two, and sometimes three, in one cell (the
supernumeraries I suppose are removed by the workers). But under
prosperous circumstances, with a hive of suitable size, &c., this emergency
is avoided.

OPERATION OF LAYING AND THE EGGS DESCRIBED.

When a cell is in a condition to receive the egg, on withdrawing her head
she immediately curves her abdomen, and inserts it a few seconds. After
leaving it, an egg may be seen attached by one end to the bottom; about the
sixteenth of an inch in length, slightly curved, very small, nearly uniform
the whole length, abruptly rounded at the ends, semi-transparent, and
covered with a very thin and extremely delicate coat, often breaking with
the slightest touch.

After the egg has been about three days in the cell, a small white worm may
be seen coiled in the bottom, surrounded with a milky-like substance, which
is its food, without doubt. How this food is prepared, is merely guess-work.
The hypothesis of its being chiefly composed of pollen, I have no objection
to; as it is sufficiently proved by the quantities that accumulate in hives that
lose their queen, and rear no brood (that is, when a requisite number of
workers are so left). The workers may be seen entering the cell every few
minutes, probably, to supply this food.6

TIME FROM THE EGG TO THE PERFECT BEE.

In about six days it is sealed over with a convex waxen lid. It is now hidden
from our sight for about twelve days, when it bites off the cover, and comes
forth a perfect bee. The period from the egg to the perfect bee varies from
twenty to twenty-four days; average about twenty-two for workers, twenty-
four for drones. The temperature of the hive will vary some with the
atmosphere; it is also governed by the number of bees. A low temperature

probably retards the development, while a high one facilitates it. You may
have seen accounts of the assiduous attentions given to the young bee when
it first emerges from the cell: 'tis said they "lick it all over, feed it with
honey," &c., desperately pleased with their new acquisition.

ROUGH TREATMENT OF THE YOUNG BEE.

Now, if you expect to see anything of this, you must watch a little closer
than I have. I have seen hundreds when biting their way out. Instead of care
or notice, they often receive rather rough treatment: the workers, intent on
other matters, will sometimes come in contact with one part way out the
cell, with force sufficient to almost dislocate its neck; yet they do not stop
to see if any harm is done, or beg pardon. The little sufferer, after this rude
lesson, scrambles back as soon as possible out of the way; enlarges the
prison door a little, and attempts again, with perhaps the same success: a
dozen trials are often made before they succeed. When it does actually
leave, it seems like a stranger in a multitude, with no friend to counsel, or
mother to direct. It wanders about uncared for and unheeded, and rarely
finds one sufficiently benevolent to bestow even the necessaries of life; but
does sometimes. It is generally forced to learn the important lesson of
looking out for itself, the day it leaves the cradle. A cell containing honey is
sought for, where its immediate wants are all supplied.

GUESS WORK.

The time before it is ready to leave the hive for honey, I might guess would
be two or three days. Others have said "it would leave the day it left the
cell;" but I guess they guess at this point. They tell us, too, that after the
bees seal over the cells containing the larvæ, "they immediately commence
spinning their cocoons, which takes just about thirty-six hours." I think it
very likely; but when I admit it, I cannot imagine how it was ascertained;—
the faculty of looking through a mill-stone I do not possess, and it requires

about the same optical penetration to look into one of these cells after it is
sealed over, as it is all perfect darkness. Suppose we drive away the bees
and open the cell, to give us a look at the interior: the little insect stops its
labor in a moment, probably from the effect of air and light. I never could
detect one in its labor. Suppose we open these cells every hour after sealing;
can we tell anything about their progress by the appearance of these
cocoons, or even tell when they are finished? The thickness of a dozen
would not exceed common writing paper. When a subject is obscure, or
difficult to ascertain, like this, why not tell us how they found out the
particulars; and if they were guessed at, be honest, and say so? When the
bee leaves the cell, a cocoon remains, and that is about all we know about it.

TERMS APPLIED TO YOUNG BEES.

The young bee, when it first leaves the egg, is termed grub, maggot, worm,
or larva; from this state it changes to the shape of the perfect bee, which is
said to be three days after finishing the cocoon; from the time of this
change, till it is ready to leave the cell, the terms nymph, pupa, and
chrysalis, are applied. The lid of the drone's cell is rather more convex than
that of the worker's, and when removed by the young bee to work its way
out, is left nearly perfect; being cut off around the edges, a good coat or
lining of silk keeps it whole; while the covering of the worker's cell is
mostly wax, and is pretty well cut to pieces by the time the bee gets out.
The covering to the queen's cell is like the drone's, but larger in diameter,
and thicker, being lined with a little more silk.

DISCREPANCY IN TIME IN REARING BROOD AS GIVEN BY
HUBER.

We are told by most writers, the period of time necessary to perfect from
the egg, the three different kinds of bees. Huber leads the way, and the rest,
supposing him to be right, repeat in substance his account as follows: That

the whole time necessary to perfect a queen from the egg is sixteen days,
the worker twenty, and the drone twenty-four days; Huber (as quoted by
Harpers) gives the time of each stage of development belonging to each
kind of bee; but is rather unfortunate in arithmetic; the items, or stages,
when added together, "do not prove," as the school-boys say; that is, he
gains time by making his bee by degrees. He says, first, of the worker, "It
remains three days in the egg, five in the grub state, it is thirty-six hours in
spinning its cocoon; in three days it changes to a nymph, passes six in that
form, and then comes forth a perfect bee." How do the items add?

The egg, 3 days. Grub, 5 " Spinning cocoon, 1-1/2 " Changing to a nymph,
3 " In that form, 6 " ———- 18-1/2 days.

One and a half days short. We will next see how the figures with the royal
insect match; recollect sixteen days are all she has allowed; then, of the
different stages, "three days in the egg, is five a worm, when the bees close
its cell, and it immediately begins its cocoon, which is finished in twenty-
four hours. During eleven days, and even sixteen hours of the twelfth, it
remains in a state of complete repose. Its transformation into a nymph then
takes place, in which state four days and part of the fifth are passed." Now
let us add the items:

The egg, 3 days. A worm, 5 " Spinning a cocoon, (24 hours), 1 " Reposes
eleven days and 16 hours, 11-2/3 " A nymph four days, and part of the fifth,
4-1/3 " ———- 25 days.

Now, reader, what do you make of such palpable blundering guess-work? A
difference of nine days—the merest school-boy ought to know better! Can
we rely on such history? Does it not prove the necessity of going over the
whole ground, applying a test to every assertion, and a revision of the whole
matter throughout? My object is not to find fault, but to get at facts. When I
see such guess-work as the above published to the world, in this enlightened
age, gravely told to the rising generation, as a portion of natural history, I
feel it a duty not to resist the inclination to expose the absurdity.

THE NUMBER OF EGGS DEPOSITED BY THE QUEEN GUESSED
AT.

The number of eggs that a queen will deposit is often another point of
guess-work. When the estimate does not exceed 200 per diem, I have no
reason to dispute it; the number will probably fall short in some cases, and
exceed it in others. Some writers suppose that this number "would never
produce a swarm, as the bees that are lost daily amount to, or even exceed
that number," and give us instead from eight hundred to four thousand eggs
in a day, from one queen. The only way to test the matter accurately, is by
actually counting, in an observatory hive, or in one with sufficient empty
combs to hold all the eggs she will deposit for a few days, when, by
removing the bees, and counting carefully, we might ascertain, and yet
several would have to be examined, before we could get at the average. The
nearest I ever came to knowing anything about it happened as follows: A
swarm left, and the queen from some cause was unable to cluster with it,
and was found, after some trouble, in the grass a few rods off. She was put
in the hive with the swarm about 11 o'clock, a.m.; the next morning, at
sunrise, I found on the bottom-board, among the scales of wax, 118 eggs
that had been discharged in that time. Probably a few escaped notice, as the
color is the same as wax scales; also, they might already have had combs
containing some. I have several times found a few the next morning, under
swarms hived the day previous, but never over thirty, except in this one
instance. The reason of this queen not being able to fly well might have
been an unusual burden of eggs. Perhaps it would be as well to mention
here, that in all cases where eggs are found in this way, that they must be
first swarms which are accompanied by the old queens.

Schirach estimates "the eggs a single female will lay, from 70,000 to
100,000 in a season." Reaumer and Huber do not estimate so high. Another
writer estimates 90,000, in three months. Let the number be as it may,
probably thousands are never perfected. During the spring months, in
medium and small families, where the bees can protect with animal heat but

a few combs, I have often found cells containing a plurality of eggs, two,
three, and occasionally four, in a single cell. These supernumeraries must be
removed, and frequently may be found amongst the dust on the bottom-
board.

A TEST FOR THE PRESENCE OF A QUEEN.

If you have a hive that you suspect has lost a queen at this season, her
presence can be ascertained nine times in ten by this method. Sweep off the
board clean, and look the next day or two after for these eggs. Take care
that ants, or mice, have no chance to get them; they might deceive you,
being as fond of eggs for breakfast as anyone.7 When one or more is found,
or any immature bees, it is sufficient, no further proof of the presence of a
queen is needed.

Another portion of eggs is wasted whenever a supply of their food fails; if
we remove the bees from a stock during a scarcity, when the hive is light,
we will be very likely to find hundreds of eggs in the cells, and but very few
advancing from that stage towards maturity. I have thus found it in the fall,
in July, and sometimes the first of June, or at any time when maturing the
brood would be likely to exhaust their stores, to endanger the family's
supply. Now, instead of the fertility of the queen being greater in spring and
first of summer than at other times, (as we are often told), I would suggest
the probability that a greater abundance of food at this season, and a greater
number of empty cells, may be the reason of the greater number of bees
matured.

WHEN DRONES ARE REARED.

Whenever the hive is well supplied with honey, and plenty of bees, a
portion of eggs are deposited in the drone-cells, which three or four days
more are necessary to mature than the worker.

WHEN QUEENS ARE REARED.

Also, when the combs become crowded with bees, and honey plenty, the
preparations for young queens commence: as the first step towards
swarming, from one to twenty royal cells are begun; when about half
completed, the queen (if all continues favorable) will deposit eggs in them,
these will be glued fast by one end like those for the workers; there is no
doubt but they are precisely the same kind of eggs that produce other bees.
When hatched, the little worm will be supplied with a superabundance of
food; at least, it appears so from the fact, that a few times I have found a
quantity remaining in the cell after the queen had left. The consistence of
this food is about like cream, the color some lighter, or just tinged with
yellow. If it was thin like water, or even honey, I cannot imagine how it
could be made to stay in the upper end of an inverted cell of that size in
such quantities as are put in, as the bees often fill it near half full.
Sometimes a cell of this kind will contain this food, and no worm to feed
upon it. I guessed the bees had compounded more than their present
necessities required, and that they stored it there to have it ready, also, that
being there all might know it was for royalty.

PLATE OF THE THREE KINDS OF CELLS.

The taste is said to be "more pungent" than food given to the worker, and
the difference in food changes the bee from a worker to a queen. I have
nothing to say against this hypothesis; it may be so, or the young bee being
obliged to stand on its head may effect it, or both causes combined may
effect the change. I never tasted this food, or found any test to apply.

The preceding plate represents a piece of comb containing all the different
cells—those at the left hand the size for drones. In the centre are few that
appear sealed over, others nearly covered, others the larva in different
stages of growth, as well as the eggs. Fig. 1 represents a queen's cell just
commenced. They are usually started thus far the first season, very
frequently when the hive is only half or two-thirds full. Fig. 2 is a cell

sufficiently advanced to receive the egg. Fig. 3 one finished, the stage when
the first swarm leaves. Fig. 4 when a queen has been perfected and left. Fig.
5 is a cell where its occupant has been destroyed by a rival, and removed by
the workers. It will be perceived that each finished queen's cell contains as
much wax as fifty made for the workers.

LIABILITY OF BEING DESTROYED.

In any stage from the egg to maturity these royal insects are liable to be
destroyed;—if honey fails from any cause sufficient to make the existence
of a swarm any way hazardous, the preparations are abandoned, and these
young queens destroyed; (I would here request the reader not to condemn
me for telling more than I can prove, until he has had the whole story; in the
swarming season, I will give further particulars.)

DRONES DESTROYED WHEN HONEY IS SCARCE.

When an occurrence like the above happens, the drones next fall victims to
the failure of honey. A brief existence only is theirs; such as are perfect, are
destroyed without mercy; those in the chrysalis state are often dragged out,
and sacrificed to the necessities of the family. Such as are allowed to hatch,
instead of being fed and protected as they would be if honey was abundant,
are allowed, while yet weak from the effects of hunger, to wander from the
hive, and fall to the earth by hundreds. These effects attend only a scarcity
in the early part of the season. The massacre of July and September is quite
different. The drones then have age and strength—an effort is apparently
first made by the workers to drive them out without proceeding to extremes;
they are harassed sometimes for several days; the workers feigning only to
sting, or else they cannot, as I never succeeded in seeing but very few
dispatched in that way; yet there is evidence proving beyond doubt that the
sting is used. Hundreds will often be collected together in a compact body
at the bottom of the hive; this mutual protection affording a few hours'

respite from their tormentors, who do not cease to worry them. In a few
days they are gone, and it is a hard matter to tell what has become of them,
at least the majority. If the hive in September is well supplied with honey, a
portion of the drones have a longer lease of life given them; I have seen
them as late as December. In some seasons, when the best hives are poorly
supplied with stores, the ensuing spring the bees will rear no drones, until
the flowers yield a good supply. I have known one or two years in which no
drones appeared before the last of June; at other times, thousands are
matured by the first of May.

OLD QUEEN LEAVES WITH THE FIRST SWARM.

The old queen leaves with the first swarm; as soon as cells are ready in the
new hive she will deposit her eggs in them, at first for workers; the number
perfected will correspond with the supply of honey and size of the swarm.
When the supply fails before leaving the old stock, she remains there, and
continues laying throughout the season; but the bees matured after the 20th
of July (in this section) are not more than sufficient to keep the number
good. As many die, or are lost during their excursions, as the young ones
will replace; in fact, they often lose rather than gain; so that by the next
spring, a hive that has cast no swarm, is no better for a stock than one from
which a swarm has issued. We are apt to be deceived by bees clustering
outside, towards the latter end of the season, and suppose it hardly possible
for them all to get in, when it may be caused by hot weather, full stores, &c.

A YOUNG QUEEN TAKES THE PLACE OF HER MOTHER IN THE
OLD STOCK.

In ordinary circumstances, when a swarm has left a stock, the oldest of the
young queens is ready to emerge from her cell in about eight or nine days;
if no second swarm is sent out, she will take her mother's place, and begin
to lay eggs in about ten days, or a little less. Two or three weeks is the only

time throughout the whole season, but what eggs can be found in all
prosperous hives. Whenever a copious yield of honey occurs, drones are
reared; as it becomes scarce, they are destroyed.

The relative number of drones and workers that exist when they are most
numerous, doubtless depends on the size of the hive, whether one in ten, or
one in thirty.

When a swarm is first hived, the first cells are the size for working; if the
hive be very small, and bees numerous, it may be filled before they are fully
aware of it, and but few drone-cells constructed; consequently, but few can
be raised; whereas if the hive be large, long before it is full, considerable
honey will be stored. Cells for storing honey are usually the size for drones;
these will be made as soon as the requisite number for workers is provided.
An abundant yield of honey during the process of filling a large hive, would
therefore cause a great proportion of these cells to be built—the amount of
drone-brood being governed by the same cause, is a strong argument
against large hives, as affording room for too many of these cells, where an
unnecessary number of drones will be reared, causing a useless expenditure
of honey, &c.

OTHER THEORIES.

Theories differing materially from the foregoing, are advanced by nearly all
writers. One says, "In spring the queen lays about 2,000 eggs of males,
resumes it again in August, but during the rest of the intervals she
exclusively lays worker eggs. The queen must be at least eleven months old
before she begins to lay the eggs of males." Mr. Townley makes the same
assertion. Dr. Bevan says, "the great laying of drone eggs usually
commences about the end of April." Another author repeats about the same,
and appears to have investigated farther, as he has found out that the eggs
for the two kinds of bees are germinated separately, and the queen knows
when each kind is ready, as well as the workers, &c. Now, I beg leave to

differ a little from these authors. Either there exists no difference in the eggs
germinated, and any, or all will produce drones or workers, just as they
happen to be deposited and fed; or else the periods of laying drone eggs are
much more frequent than any writer with which I am acquainted has been
willing to allow.

SUBJECT NOT UNDERSTOOD.

I am not anxious to establish a new theory, but to get at facts. If we pretend
to understand natural history, it is important that we have it correct; and if
we do not understand it, say so, and leave it open for further investigation.
It is my opinion that we know but very little about this point. I wish to
induce closer observation, and would recommend no positive decision, until
all the facts that will apply have been examined. Whether these drone-egg
theories have been too hastily adopted, the reader can decide; I shall offer a
few more facts, somewhat difficult to reconcile with them.

First, in relation to the queen being "eleven months old" before laying drone
eggs. We all agree, I believe, that the old queen goes with the first swarm,
and a young one remains in the old stock. Now suppose the first swarm
leaves in June, and the old stock yet contains a numerous family. The
flowers of buckwheat in August yield a bountiful harvest of honey. This old
stock rears a large brood of drones. Is it not proved in this case that the
queen was but two months old, instead of eleven? We further agree that
young queens accompany second or after-swarms. When these happen to be
large and prosperous, they never fail to rear a brood of drones at this season.
What is the age of these? I apprehend that this eleven months theory
originated in sections where there are no crops of buckwheat raised, or in
small quantities. Clover generally fails in August, and May, or June, of
another year comes round, before there is a sufficient yield to produce the
brood. With these observations only, how very rational to conclude that it
must be a law of their nature, instead of being governed by the yield of
honey, and size of the family? If the periods of drone egg laying are limited

to only two or three, it would seem that all queens ought to be ready with
this kind of egg, about the same period of the season, but how are the facts?

I would like to inquire what becomes of the first series of drone eggs, the
last of April, or the first of May, when the stocks are poorly supplied with
honey, or when a family is small and but little honey through the summer?
No drone brood is matured in these cases. It is not pretended that the queen
has any control over the germination of these eggs, yet somehow she has
them ready whenever the situation of the hive will warrant it. Two stocks
may have an equal number of bees the first of May; one may have forty
pounds of honey, the other four pounds; the latter cannot afford to rear a
drone, while the other will have hundreds. Let two stocks have but four
pounds each at any time in summer when honey is scarce, now feed one of
them plentifully, and a brood of drones is sure to appear, while the other
will not produce one. Whenever stocks are well stored with honey, and full
of bees, the first of May will find drone-cells containing brood. If the
flowers continue to yield a full supply, these cells may be examined every
week from that period till the first swarm leaves, and I will engage that
drone brood may be found in all stages from the egg to maturity; and the
worker brood the same. In twenty-four days after the first swarm leaves, the
last drone eggs left by the old queen will be just about matured. When
transferring bees from old to new hives, I generally do it about twenty-one
or twenty-two days after the first swarm, (this is the time to avoid
destroying the worker-brood; the particulars will be given in another place.)
I have transferred a great many, and never failed to find a few drones about
ready to leave the combs. Whether the swarm had left the last of May, or
middle of July, there was no difference, they were on hand.

A very early swarm in good seasons, will often fill the hive, and send out an
issue in from four to six weeks: the usual amount of drone-brood may be
found in these cases. The following circumstance would appear to indicate
that all the eggs are alike, and if they are laid in drone-cells, the bees give

the proper food and make drones; if in worker-cells, workers, just as they
make a queen from a worker-egg, when put in a royal cell.

In a glass hive, one sheet of comb next the glass, and parallel with it, was
full size; about three-quarters of this sheet was worker-cells, the remainder
drone-cells. The family had been rather small, but now had increased to a
full swarm; a few drones had matured in the middle of the hive. It was
about the middle of June, 1850, when I discovered the bees on this outside
sheet, preparing it, as I thought, for brood, by cutting off the cells to the
proper length. They had been used for storing honey, and were much too
long, being about an inch and a half deep. In a day or two after I saw a few
eggs in both worker and drone-cells; four or five days afterwards, on
opening the door, I found her "majesty" engaged in depositing eggs in the
drone cells. Nearly every one already contained an egg; most of these she
examined, but did not use them; six or eight, it appeared, were all that were
unoccupied; in each of these she immediately deposited an egg. She
continued to search for more empty cells, and in doing so, she got on the
part of the comb containing worker-cells, where she found a dozen or more
empty, in each of which, she laid one. The whole time perhaps thirty
minutes. Query? Was her series of drone eggs exhausted just at this time? If
so, it would appear that she was not aware of it, because she examined
several drone-cells after laying the last one there, before leaving that part of
the comb, and acted exactly as if she would have used them had they not
been pre-occupied. Did the worker-cells receive some eggs that would have
produced drones, but for the circumstance of being deposited in worker-
cells? I know we are told that an egg may be transferred from a worker-cell
to one for drones, or an egg taken from a drone-cell and deposited in a
worker-cell; that the exchange will make no difference, the bee will be just
what the first deposit would have made it. How the knowledge for this
assertion was obtained, we are not informed, at least of the practical part.
That an egg was ever detached from the bottom of one cell safely and
successfully deposited in another, without breaking or injuring it in some
manner, to make the bees refuse it, permit me at present to doubt.

NECESSITY FOR FURTHER OBSERVATION.

Cannot some experiments, practicable to all, be instituted that will throw
more light on this subject? The old hypothesis of limiting drone-egg laying
to two or three periods, is evidently at fault.

TWO SIDES OF THE QUESTION.

If we suppose that the eggs are all alike, and the subsequent treatment
makes either workers, drones, or queens, and look to analogy for support,
we shall find much against, as well as for it. For instance, we find in almost
every department of animated nature, that the sex of the germ of a future
being is decided before being separated from the parent, as the eggs of
fowls, &c. Another fact, some queens (averaging one in sixty or eighty)
deposit eggs that produce only drones,8 whether in worker or drone-cells,
proving that sex is decided in this case beyond controversy. Hence it would
appear reasonable, if sex was decided by the ovaries of the queen, in one
case, it would be in another.

To allow the bees the power of making three kinds of bees from one kind of
eggs, which would be virtually constituting a third sex, an anomaly not
often found. The drones being males, and workers imperfect females with
generative organs undeveloped, renders the anomaly of the third sex
unnecessary. On the other side it might be said in reply: That if food and
treatment would create or produce organs of generation in the female, by
making an egg destined for a worker into a queen, (a fact which all
apiarians admit,) why not food and treatment make the drone? Is the
difficulty of developing one kind of sexual organs greater than another?

Respecting the anomaly of the eggs of some queens producing only drones,
the question might be asked, Is this more of an anomaly than that of
ordinary queens which are said to germinate eggs in distinct series? It is all
out of the usual line. Other animals or insects usually produce the sexes

promiscuously. As we are ignorant of causes deciding sex in any case, we
must acknowledge mystery to belong to both sides of the question here. The
stumbling-block of more than two sexes, which seems so necessary to make
plain, is no greater here than with some species of ants, that have, as we are
told, king, queen, soldier and laborer. Four distinct and differently formed
bodies, all belonging to one nest, and descended from one mother. Whether
there are four distinct kinds of eggs producing them, or the power is given
to the workers to develop such as are wanted, from one kind, we cannot say.
If we make two kinds of eggs, it helps the matter but very little. There is
still an anomaly. There is but one perfect female in a nest to germinate eggs,
and the myriads produced (being over 80,000 in twenty-four hours,
according to some historians) shows that the fecundity of our queen-bee is
not a parallel case by any means. And yet they are similar, by having their
offspring provided for without an effort of their own.

I shall leave this matter for the present, hoping that something conclusive
may occur in the course of my experiments, or those of others. At present I
am inclined to think that the eggs are all alike, but am not fully satisfied.

I am aware that this matter is of but little value or interest to many, but
myself and a few others have "Yankee inquisitiveness" pretty well
developed, and would like to know how it was managed.

As for workers proving occasionally fertile, I have but little to say. After
years of close observation directed to this point, I have been unable to
discover anything to establish this opinion. Neither have I found the black
bees described by some authors. It is true that in the middle or latter part of
summer a portion will be much darker than others, and perhaps rather
smaller, and some of them with their wings somewhat worn, probably the
result of continued labor, peculiar food, or some incidental circumstance.

I have a few times found a humble-bee under the hive, that had entered, and
not finding his way out readily, was speedily shorn of his beautiful "locks,"
and consequently his strength—that is, every particle of hair, down,

feathers, bristles, or whatever he had been covered with, was completely
removed by the bees, who had no regard for his beautiful alternating stripes
of yellow and brown; which left him the very picture of darkness.

CHAPTER IV.

BEE PASTURAGE.

In some seasons the earth is covered with snow much later than others.
When this occurs, a greater number of warm days are necessary to melt it,
and start the flowers, than otherwise.

SUBSTITUTE FOR POLLEN.

During these warm days, while waiting for the flowers, the bees are anxious
to do something. It is then interesting to watch them, and see what will be
used as substitutes for pollen and honey. At such times, I have seen
hundreds engaged on a heap of sawdust, gathering the minute particles into
little pellets on their legs, seeming quite pleased with the acquisition. Rotten
wood, when crumbled into powder, and dry, is also collected. Flour, when
scattered near the hive, I have known to be taken up in considerable
quantities. Some apiarians have fed it to their bees at this season, and
consider it a great advantage; I have not tested it sufficient to give an
opinion. A substitute for honey is sap from a few kinds of trees, yet it all
amounts to but very little. All these unnatural sources are abandoned when
the flowers appear.

MANNER OF PACKING IT.

The particular manner of obtaining pollen has been witnessed by but very
few persons, as it is generally brushed from their bodies and packed on their
legs, while on the wing, thereby preventing a fair chance to inspect

operations. When collecting only pollen they alight on the flowers, passing
rapidly over the stamens, detaching a portion of the dust, which lodges on
most parts of them, to be brushed together and packed into pellets when
again on the wing. Thus they keep alternately flying and alighting until a
load is obtained, when they immediately return to the hive; each bee
bringing several loads in a day. Honey, as it is collected, is deposited in the
abdomen, and kept out of sight till stored in the hive.

ALDER YIELDS THE FIRST.

The first material gathered from flowers is pollen. Candle-alder (Alnus
Rubra)9 yields the first supply. The time of flowering varies from the 10th
of March to the 20th of April. The amount afforded is also variable. Cold,
freezing weather frequently destroys a great portion of these flowers after
they are out. These staminate flowers are nearly perfected the season
previous, and a few warm days in spring will bring them out, even before
any leaves appear. When the weather continues fine, great quantities of
farina are secured.

The time that bees commence their labors does not govern the time of
swarming by any means; this matter depends on the weather through April
and May. These remarks apply particularly to this section, Green County,
New York, in latitude about 42 degrees. In other places many different trees,
shrubs, and herbs, may be found yielding honey and pollen that scarcely
exist here, producing far different results.

Our swamps produce several varieties of willow, (salix,) that put out their
blossoms very irregularly. Some of these bushes are a month earlier than
others, and some of the buds on the same bush are a week or two later than
the rest. These also afford only pollen, but are much more dependence than
alder, as a turn of cold weather cannot at any time destroy more than a small
part. Next comes the aspen, (Populus Tremuloides); of this we have more
than is necessary for any purpose. It is not a particular favorite with the

bees, as but few, comparatively, visit it. It is followed very soon by an
abundance of the red maple (Acer Rubrum), that suits them better, but this,
like the others, is often lost by freezing. The first honey obtained of any
account is from the golden willow (Salix Vitellina); it yields no pollen, and
is seldom injured by frost. Gooseberries, currants, cherries, pear and peach
trees, add a share of both honey and pollen. Sugar maple (Acer
Saccharinum) now throws out its ten thousand silken tassels, beautiful as
gold. Strawberries modestly open their petals in invitation, but, like
"obscure virtues," are often neglected for the more conspicuous Dandelion,
and the showy appearance and flagrant blossoms of the apple-trees, which
now open their stores, offering to their acceptance a real harvest.

FRUIT FLOWERS IMPORTANT IN GOOD WEATHER.

In good weather, sometimes a gain of twenty lbs. is added to their stores,
during this period of apple-tree blossoms. But we are seldom fortunate
enough to have good weather all through this period, it being rainy, cloudy,
cool, or windy, which is very detrimental. Sometimes a frost at this time
destroys all, and the gain of our bees is reversed, that is, they are lighter at
the end than at the beginning of these flowers. Yet this is the season that
decides their prosperity for the summer, whether they do first rate or
otherwise. If good weather now, we expect our first swarms about the first
of June; if not, no subsequent yield of honey will make up for this
deficiency. We now have a time of several days, from ten to fourteen, in
which but few flowers exist. If our hives are poorly supplied when this
scarcity occurs, it will so disarrange their plans for swarming, that no
preparations are again made much before July, and sometimes not at all. In
sections where the wild cherry (Cerasus Seratina) abounds, the flowers of
this will appear and fill this time of scarcity, which this section annually
presents.

RED RASPBERRY A FAVORITE.

The red raspberry (Rubus Strigosus) next presents the stamens as the most
conspicuous part of the flower, soliciting the embrace of the bee, by pouring
out bounteous libations more prized by our industrious insect than wine.
For several weeks they are allowed to partake of this exquisite beverage; it
is secreted at all hours and in all kinds of weather. When the morning is
warm we often hear their cheerful humming among the leaves and flowers
of this shrub, ere the sun appears above the horizon. The gentle shower,
sufficient to induce man to seek a shelter, is often unheeded by the bee
when luxuriating among these flowers; even white clover, important as it is
in furnishing the greatest part of their stores, at this season, would be
neglected if there was only a full supply of this. Clover begins to blossom
with the raspberry, and continues longer. We have an insufficient supply (in
this section) in most seasons. Red clover probably secretes as much honey
as the white, but the tube of the corolla being longer, the bee appears to be
unable to reach it. Yet I have seen a few at work even here but it appeared
like slow business. Sorrel, (Rumex Acetosella) the pest of many farmers, is
brought under contribution, and furnishes the precious dust in any quantity.
Morning is the only part of the day appropriated to its collection.

CATNIP, MOTHER-WORT, AND HOARHOUND ARE SOUGHT
AFTER.

Catnip, (Nepeta Cataria,) Mother-wort, (Leonurus Cardiaca,) and
Hoarhound, (Marrubium Vulgare,) about the middle of June, put forth their
flowers, rich in sweetness, and like the Raspberry, the bees visit them at all
hours and in nearly all kinds of weather. They last from four to six weeks;
the catnip I have known to last twelve in a few instances, yielding honey
during the whole time. Ox-eye daisy, (Leucanthemum Vulgare,) that
beautiful and splendid flower, in pasture and meadow, and worth but little
in either, also contains some honey. The flower is compound, and each little
floret contains particles so minute, that the task of obtaining a load is very
tedious. It is only visited when the more copious honey-yielding flowers are

scarce. Snap-dragon,(Linaria Vulgaris,) with its nauseous and sickening
odor, troubling the farmer with its vile presence, is made to bestow the only
good thing about it, except its beauty, upon our insect. The flower is large
and tubular, and the bee to reach the honey must enter it; to see the bee
almost disappear within the folds of the corolla, one would think that it was
about being swallowed, when the hideous mouth was gaping to receive it;
but unharmed, soon it emerges from the yellow prison, covered with dust;
this is not brushed into pellets on its legs, like the pollen from some other
flowers, but a part adheres to its back between the wings, which it is
apparently unable to remove, as it remains there sometimes for months,
making a cluster outside the hive, appear quite speckled. Bush honey-suckle
(Diervilla Trifida) is another particular favorite.

SINGULAR FATALITY ATTENDANT ON SILKWEED.

Silkweed (Asclepias Cornuti) is also another honey-yielding perennial, but
a singular fatality attends many bees while gathering it, that I never yet saw
noticed. I had observed during the period this plant was in bloom, that a
number of the bees belonging to swarms, before the hive was full, were
unable to ascend the sides to the comb; there would be sometimes thirty or
more at the bottom in the morning. On searching for the cause, I found from
one to ten thin yellow scales, attached to their feet, triangular, or somewhat
wedge shape, in size about the twentieth part of an inch. On the longest
point or angle, was a black thread-like point, from a sixteenth to an eighth
of an inch in length; on this stem was either hooks, barbs, or a glutinous
matter, that firmly adhered to each foot or claw of the bee, rendering it
useless as far as climbing the sides of the hive was concerned. I found also
among bees clustered outside of full hives, this ornament attached, but to
them it appeared no inconvenience. Among the scales of wax and waste
matter that accumulates about the swarms to the amount of a handful, I
found a great many of these scales, which the bees had worked from their
feet. The question then arose, were these scales a foreign substance,

accidentally entangled in their claws, or was it something formed there by
nature, or rather an unnatural appendage? It was soon decided. From the
number of bees carrying it, I was satisfied that if it was the product of any
flower, it belonged to a species somewhat abundant. I set about a close
examination of all such as were then in bloom. I found the flowers of the
Silkweed, (or Milkweed, as some call it,) sometimes holding a dead bee by
the foot, secured by this appendage. Both sepals and petals of this flower
are re-curved, that is, turned backward towards the stem, forming five acute
angles, or notches, just the thing for a trap for a bee with strings of beads on
its toes; when at work they are very liable to slip a foot into one of these
notches; the flower being thick and firm, holds it fast; pulling only draws it
deeper into the wedge-like cavity. The bee must either perish or break
loose; their instincts fail them in this emergency; they know nothing about
getting it out by a gentle pull the other way. I never saw one do it except by
accident. By examining the buds of this plant just before opening, I found
this fatal appendage, by which great numbers of our bees are lost.10 When I
point out a loss among our bees, I would like to give a remedy; but here I
am at a loss, unless all these plants are destroyed, and this is impracticable
in many places. After all I am not sure but honey enough is obtained by
such bees as do escape, to counterbalance what we lose. This would depend
on the amount of honey yielded by other flowers at the same time.

Whitewood (Liriodendron Tulipifera) yields something eagerly sought for
by the bees, but whether honey, or pollen, or both, I have never been able to
ascertain. All the flowers of this kind, with us, are too high. It is very
scarce, as well as Basswood, (Tilia Americana,)—that in some places is
abundant, and yields honey clear and transparent as water, superior in
appearance, but inferior in flavor to clover; it also appears much thinner
when first collected.

LARGE YIELD FROM BASSWOOD.

During the time this tree is in bloom, a period of two or three weeks in
many sections, astonishing quantities are obtained. A person once assured
me that he had known "ten pounds collected by one swarm in a day, by
weighing the hive in the morning and again at evening." I have some doubt
of the statement, and think half the amount would be a good day's work; but
I had but a small chance to know, as only a few trees, as a specimen, grow
in this section. I have weighed hives during seasons of apple-tree blossoms
and buckwheat, the two best yields of honey we have, and three and a half
pounds was the best for one day that I ever had. Sumach, (Rhus Glabra,) in
some sections, affords considerable honey. Mustard (Sinapis Nigra) is also
a great favorite.

I have now mentioned most of the honey-producing trees and plants that
come on before the middle of July. The course of these flowers is termed
the first yield. In sections where there are no crops of buckwheat, it
constitutes the only full one. Other flowers continue to bloom till cold
weather. Where white clover is abundant and the fields are used for pasture,
it will continue to throw out fresh flowers, sometimes, throughout the
summer; yet the bees consume about all they collect in rearing their brood,
&c. Thus it appears in some sections six or eight weeks is about all the time
they have to provide for winter.

GARDEN FLOWERS UNIMPORTANT.

In passing along I have not mentioned garden flowers, because the amount
obtained here is a small item, compared to the forest and fields—especially
ornamental flowers. It is true that the Hollyhock, (Altha Rosea,) Mallows,
(Malva Rotundifolia) and many others yield honey, but what does it amount
to? A person expecting his hives to be filled from such a source would very
likely be disappointed, especially when many are kept together.

HONEY-DEW.

Honey-dew is said to be a source from whence large collections are made in
some places. When or where it appears or disappears is more than I can tell.
I have seen the accounts of it, but accounts I have learned to doubt until I
find something corroborative in my own experience. I find too many errors
copied merely because they happen to be in company with several truths.
Huber discovered many important truths, and has given them to the world;
too many writers take it for granted when two points of his are true, the
third must be also. It is no proof that there is no such article merely because
I never discovered it. In the many fruitless endeavors that I have made to
get a view of this substance, it may be I have lacked close observation; or
possibly there is none showered upon this region; or I may have failed to
bring my imagination to assist me to convert common dew into the real
article.

SINGULAR SECRETION.

I once discovered bees collecting a secretion unconnected with flowers; but
was not honey-dew, as it has been described. I was passing a bush of Witch-
hazel, (Hamamelis Virginiana,) and was arrested by an unusual humming of
bees. At first I supposed that a swarm was about me, yet it was late in the
season, (it being about the 25th July.) On close inspection, I found the bush
contained numerous warty excrescences, the size and shape of a hickory-
nut. These proved to be only a shell—the inside lined with thousands of
minute insects, a species of aphis. These appeared to be engaged sucking
the juices, and discharging a clear, transparent fluid. Near the stem was an
orifice about an eighth of an inch in diameter, out of which this liquid
would gradually exude. So eager were the bees for this secretion, that
several would crowd around one orifice at a time, each endeavoring to
thrust the other away. This occurred several years ago, and I never have
been able to find anything like it since; neither have I learned whether it is
common in other sections.

SECRETIONS OF THE APHIS.

The liquid ejected by the aphis, (plant louse,) when feeding or sucking the
juices of tender leaves, and received by the ants that are always in
attendance, is something like it; but in this case the bees were in attendance
instead of ants.

This mode of elaborating honey, although not generally collected by bees,
perhaps may not be too much out of place here. Also, it may furnish a clue
to the cause or substantiate some theory of honey-dew.

These insects (Aphis) have been very appropriately termed "ants' cows," as
they are regarded by them with the most tender care and solicitude. In July
or August, when the majority of the leaves of our apple trees are matured,
there is often a few sprouts or suckers about the bottom or trunk, that
continue growing and putting out fresh leaves. On the under side of these,
you will find the aphis by hundreds, of all sizes, from those just hatched to
the perfect insect with wings. All appear to be engaged in sucking the bitter
juice from the tender leaf and stalk. The ants are among them by scores.
(They are often accused by the careless observer of the injury, instead of the
aphis.) Occasionally there will issue from their abdomen a small,
transparent globule, which the ant is ever ready to receive. When a load is
obtained it descends to the nest; others may be seen going and returning
continually. Many other kinds of trees, shrubs and plants are used by the
ants as "cow pasture," and most kinds of ants are engaged in this dairy
business.11 Would the bees attend on the aphis for this secretion, (for it
appears to be honey,) if the ant was not there first? Or if there were no ants
or bees, would this secretion be discharged, and falling on the leaves below
them, be honey-dew? If they were situated on some lofty trees, and it
lodged on the leaves of small bushes near the earth, it would, with some
authors.

These questions I shall not answer, at present. As for theory, I shall
probably have enough before I get through, where I hope the subject may

be more interesting.12

We will now return to the flowers, and see what few there are yet to appear,
after the middle of July. The button-ball bush (Cephalanthus Occidentalis)
is now much frequented for honey. Also, our vines, melons, cucumbers,
squashes, and pumpkins. The latter are visited only in the morning, and
honey is the only thing obtained; notwithstanding the bee is covered with
farina, it is not kneaded into pellets on its legs. I have seen it stated that
bees never get honey early in the morning, but pollen instead. Now it is not
best always to take our word, who pretend to know all about it, but look for
yourselves into some of these matters. Take a look some warm morning,
when the pumpkins are in bloom, and see whether it is honey or pollen they
are in quest of. Also please make an observation when they are at work on
the red raspberry, motherwort, or catnip; you will thus ascertain a fact so
easily, that you will wonder any one with the least pretension to apiarian
science could be ignorant of it. I mention this, not because it is of much
importance in itself, but to show the fallibility of us all, as we sometimes
copy the mistaken assertions of others.

ADVANTAGES OF BUCKWHEAT.

Under some circumstances, clover will continue to bloom through this part
of the season; also, a few other flowers; but I find by weighing, a loss from
one to six pounds, between the 20th July and the 10th of August, when the
flowers of buckwheat begin to yield honey, which generally proves a
second harvest. In many places it is their main dependence for surplus
honey. It is considered by many an inferior quality. The color, when
separated from comb, resembles molasses of medium shade. The taste is
more pungent than clover honey; it is particularly prized on that account by
some, and disliked by others for the same reason. In the same temperature it
is a little thicker than other honey, and is sooner candied.

AMOUNT OF HONEY COLLECTED FROM IT.

Swarms issuing as late as the 15th July, when they commence on
buckwheat, sometimes contain not over five pounds of stores, and yet make
good stocks for winter, whereas, without this yield, they might not live
through October. It fails about once in ten years. I have known a swarm to
gain in one week sixteen pounds, and construct comb to store it at the same
time. At another time I had a swarm issue the 18th August, that obtained
thirty pounds in about eighteen days. But such buckwheat swarms, in
ordinary seasons, seldom get over fifteen pounds. The flowers last from
three to five weeks. The time of sowing the grain varies in different
sections, from the 10th of June to the 20th July. Farmers wish to give it just
time to ripen before frost, as the yield of grain is considered better, but as
the time of frost is a matter of guess-work, some will sow several days
earlier than others. Whenever an abundant crop of this grain is realized, a
proportionate quantity of honey is obtained.

DO BEES INJURE THE CROP?

Many people contend that bees are an injury to this crop, by taking away
the substance that would be formed into grain. The best reasons for this
opinion that I have obtained are these: "I believe it, and have thought so a
long time." "It is reasonable if a portion of this plant is taken away by the
bees, there must be a less quantity of material left for the formation of seed,
&c." Most of us have learned that a person's opinion is not the strongest
kind of proof, unless he can exhibit substantial reasons for it. Are the above
reasons satisfactory? How are the facts? The flowers expand, and a set of
vessels pour into the cup or nectary a minute portion of honey. I am not
aware that any one contends that the plant has another set of vessels
prepared to again absorb this honey and convert it into grain. But strong
testimony proves very plainly that it never again enters the stalk or flower,
but evaporates like water. We all know that animal matter when putrid will
be dissolved into particles small enough to float in the atmosphere, too

minute for the naked eye. When passing off in this way this real flesh and
blood would escape notice perhaps altogether, and never be detected, were
it not for the olfactories, which on some occasions notify us of its presence
very forcibly. In passing a field of buckwheat in bloom, by the same means
we are assured of the presence of honey in the air. Now what is the
difference whether this honey passes off in the air, or is collected by the
bees? If any difference, the advantage appears to be in favor of the bees
getting it, for the reason that it thus answers another important end in the
economy of nature, consistent with her provisions in ten thousand different
ways of adapting means to ends. Most breeders of domestic animals are
aware of the deteriorating qualities induced by in-and-in breeding; a change
of breed is found necessary for perfection, &c.

ARE NOT BEES AN ADVANTAGE TO VEGETATION?

Vegetable physiology seems to indicate a similar necessity in that
department. The stamens and pistils of flowers answer the different organs
of the two sexes in animals. The pistil is connected with the ovaries, the
stamens furnish the pollen that must come in contact with the pistil; in other
words, it must be impregnated by this dust from the stamens, or no fruit will
be produced. Now if it be necessary to change the breed, or essential that
the pollen produced by the stamens of one flower shall fertilize the pistil of
another, to prevent barrenness, what should we contrive better than the
arrangement already made by Him who knew the necessity and planned it
accordingly? And it works so admirably, that we can hardly avoid the
conclusion that bees were intended for this important purpose! It is thus
planned! Their wants and their food shall consist of honey and pollen; each
flower secretes but little, just enough to attract the bee; nothing like a full
load is obtained from one; were it thus, the end in view would not be
answered; but a hundred or more flowers are often visited in one excursion;
the pollen obtained from the first may fertilize many, previous to the bees'
returning to the hive; thus a field of buckwheat may be kept in health and

vigor in its future productions. A field of wheat produces long slender stalks
that yield to the influence of the breeze, and one ear is made to bestow its
pollen on a neighboring ear several feet distant, thereby effecting just what
bees do for buckwheat. Corn, from its manner of growth, the upright stalk
bearing the stamens some feet above the pistils, on the ears below, seems to
need no agency of bees; the superabundant pollen from the tassel is wafted
by the winds rods from the producing stalk, and there does its office of
fertilizing a distant ear, as is proved by different varieties mixing at some
distance. But how is it with our vines trailing on the earth, a part of these
flowers producing stamens, the other only pistils? Now it is absolutely
essential that pollen from the staminate flowers shall be introduced into the
pistillate to produce fruit; because if a failure occurs in this matter the germ
will wither and die. Here we have the agent ready for our purpose; these
flowers are visited by the bee promiscuously; no pollen (as was said) is
kneaded into pellets, (particularly that from pumpkins,) but it adheres to
every part of their body, rendering it next to impossible for a bee thus
covered with dust to enter the pistillated flower without fulfilling the
important duty designed, and leave a portion of the fertilizing dust in its
proper place. Hence it is reasonably inferred by many, that if it was not for
this agent among our vines, the uncertainty of a crop from non-fertilization
would render the cultivation of them a useless task.

When the aphis is located on the stalk or leaf of a plant it is furnished with
means to pierce the surface and extract the juices essential to the formation
of the plant, thereby preventing vigorous growth and a full development.
This idea is too apt to be associated with the bee when she visits the flower,
as if she was armed with a spear, to pierce bark or stem and rob it of its
nourishment. Her real structure is lost sight of, or perhaps never known; her
slender brush-like tongue folded closely under her neck, and seldom seen
except when in use, is not fitted to pierce the most delicate substance; all
that it can be used for is to sweep or lick up the nectar as it exudes from the
pores of the flower, secreted, it would seem, for no other purpose but to
attract her—while there she obtains nothing but what nature has provided

for her and given her the means of obtaining, and the most delicate petal
receives no injury.

During an excursion the bee seldom visits more than a single species of
flower; were it otherwise, and all kinds of flowers were visited
promiscuously, by fertilizing one species with the pollen from another, the
vegetable kingdom would be very likely to get into confusion. Writers,
when noticing the peculiarity of instinct governing the bee here, cannot be
content always, but must add other marvels. They follow this trait into the
hive, and make her store every kind by itself there. Relative to honey it is
not an easy matter to be positive; but pollen is of a variety of colors,
generally yellow, yet sometimes pale-green, and reddish or dark-brown.
Now I think a little patient inspection would have satisfied any one that two
kinds are sometimes packed in one cell, and prevented the assertion to the
contrary. I will admit that two colors are seldom found packed together, but
sometimes will be. I have thus found it, and it has entirely ruined that
theory for me.

A TEST FOR THE PRESENCE OF QUEEN DOUBTED.

It is further asserted that if a hive loses its queen "no pollen is collected."
Also, "that such quantities are sometimes collected, and fill so many cells,
that too little room is left for brood, and the stock rapidly dwindles away in
consequence." The first of these assertions has been given as a test to decide
whether the hive contains a queen or not. Now my bees have such a habit of
doing things wrong that the above is no test whatever. It is made to appear
very well in theory, but wants the truth in practice. I will say what I have
known on this point, and perhaps clear up the difficulty of a stock
containing an unusual quantity of bee-bread with the honey, and instead of
being the cause of its having but few bees, it is the effect. Stocks and
sometimes swarms lose their queen in the swarming season, (the particulars
will be given in another place,) when, instead of remaining idle, the usual
quantity of both pollen and honey is collected (unless the family is very

small). There being no larvæ to consume the bread, the consequence is,
more than half the breeding cells will contain it; they will be packed about
two-thirds full, and finished out with honey. I have known a large family
left under such circumstances, and about all the cells in the hive would be
occupied. Whereas, in a stock containing a queen and rearing brood, a
portion of the combs will be used for this purpose until the flowers fail, and
then such comb will be found empty.

AN EXTRA QUANTITY OF POLLEN NOT ALWAYS
DETRIMENTAL.

To test whether this extra quantity of bee-bread was so very detrimental, I
have introduced into such hive in the fall a family with a queen and
wintered them in it, and watched their prosperity another year, and never
found them less profitable on that account. I am so well satisfied of this,
that whenever I now have a hive in such a situation, it is a rule to introduce
a swarm.

It is calculated, I believe, generally, that when medium-sized hives are full,
about seven-eighths of the cells are made the proper diameter for raising the
workers, the remainder for drones, except a few for queens. Here is one
circumstance I do not remember to have seen mentioned, and that is, bee-
bread is generally packed exclusively in the worker cells. I would say
always; but I would do better to be careful, especially as I find my bees
doing things so differently from some others. I might as well remark here,
that when taking combs from a hive filled with honey, if such pieces were
selected as contained only the large or drone cells, but little risk of bee-
bread would occur; of the other combs, the outside sheets and the corners of
the others near the top are the next best. The sheets of comb used
principally for raising workers, and the cells next those so used, for an inch
or two in width, are nearly all packed with pollen, and much of it will
remain, when the breeding season is past. Smaller portions are found in the

worker cells in nearly all parts of the hive; even the boxes will sometimes
contain a little.

MANNER OF PACKING STORES.

In a glass hive, the bees may be seen depositing their load of pollen; the
legs holding the pellets are thrust into the cell, (not their heads), and a
motion like rubbing them together is made for a half minute, when they are
withdrawn, and the two little loaves of bread may be seen at the bottom.
This bee appears to take no farther care about them, but another will soon
come along, and enter the cell head first, and pack it close; this cell is filled
about two-thirds of its length in this way, and when sealed over a little
honey is used to fill it out.

PHILOSOPHY IN FILLING A CELL WITH HONEY.

To witness the operation of depositing honey, a glass hive or box is
requisite; the edges of the combs will be attached to the glass—when honey
is abundant, most of these cells next the glass will contain some. Now is the
time to see the operation, glass forming one side of such as are in contact,
&c. The bee may be seen to enter the cell till it reaches the bottom; with its
tongue, the first particle is deposited, and brushed into the corners or angles,
carefully excluding all the air from behind it—as it is filled, that next the
sides of the cell is kept in advance of the centre. The bee does not put its
tongue in the centre and pour out its load there, but carefully brushes the
sides as it fills, excluding every particle of air, and keeps the surface
concave instead of convex. This is just as a philosopher would say it should
be. If it was filled at once and no care taken to attach it to the sides, why,
the external air would never keep it there, which it does effectually when of
ordinary length. When the cell is about one-fourth of an inch deep they
often commence filling it, and as it is lengthened they add to it, keeping it
within an eighth of an inch of the end; it is never quite full till nearly sealed

over, and often not then. In cells of the worker size, the sealing seldom
touches the honey. But in the size for drones the case is different; the honey
on the end touches the sealing, about half the diameter on the lower side; it
is kept in the same shape while being filled; but being somewhat larger, the
atmospheric pressure is less effectual in keeping the honey in its place;
consequently, when they commence sealing these cells they begin on the
lower side and finish at the top.

LONG CELLS SOMETIMES TURNED UPWARD.

When storing honey in boxes, cells of this size are usually much longer, in
which case they are crooked, the ends turning upward, sometimes half an
inch or more; this, of course, will prevent the honey from running, but if the
box is taken off and turned over before such cells are sealed, they are very
sure to spill most of their contents. The cells in the breeding apartment, of
ordinary length, will hold the honey well enough as long as horizontal; but
turn the hive on its side, and bring the open end downward, in hot weather,
or break out a piece and hold it in that position, the air will not sustain it in
them, but will, in the size suitable for workers.

When the hive is fully supplied with bees and honey, (unless destitute of a
queen,) I never examined one, winter or summer, but it had a number of
unsealed cells containing honey, as well as pollen; it is so when they have
stored fifty pounds in boxes, even when so crowded for room as to store
honey outside or under the bottom-board; ever having some cells open for a
ready supply.

Young swarms seem unwilling to construct combs faster than needed for
use; it would appear, at first thought, to be a lack of economy. When no
honey is to be obtained and nothing to do, then it would seem to be a fine
chance for getting ready for a yield; but this is not their way of doing
business; whether they cannot spare the honey already collected to
elaborate the wax, or whether they find it more difficult to keep the worms

from a large quantity of comb, I shall not decide. Of this I am satisfied, that
it is better arranged by their instincts, than we could do it. Large swarms,
when first located, if honey is abundant, will extend their combs from top to
bottom in a little more than two weeks; but such hive is not yet full; some
sheets of comb may contain honey throughout their whole length, and not a
cell be sealed over; but, however, they generally find time to finish up
within a few inches of the lower end as they proceed. Whenever unfinished
cells contain honey, it will generally be removed soon after the flowers fail,
and used before that which is sealed; and the cells will remain empty till
another year.

IS A DRY OR WET SEASON BEST FOR HONEY?

The inquiry is often made, "What kind of season is best for bees, wet or
dry?" This point I have watched very closely, and have found that a medium
between the two extremes produces most honey. When farmers begin to
express fears of a drought, then is the time (if in the season of flowers) that
most honey is obtained; but if dry weather passes these limits, the quantity
is greatly diminished. Of the two extremes, perhaps very wet is the worst.

HOW MANY STOCKS SHOULD BE KEPT.

"What number of stocks can there be kept in one place?" is another question
often asked. This is like Mr. A. asking farmer B. how many cattle could be
pastured in a lot of ten acres. Farmer B. would first wish to know how much
pasture said lot would produce, before he could begin to answer; since one
lot of that size might produce ten times as much as the other. So with bees,
one apiary of two hundred stocks might find honey in abundance for all,
and another of forty might almost starve. Like the cattle, it depends on
pasture.

THREE PRINCIPAL SOURCES OF HONEY.

There are three principal sources of honey, viz.:—clover, basswood, and
buckwheat. But clover is the only universal dependance; as that is almost
everywhere, to some extent, in the country. Buckwheat in some places is the
main source; in others, basswood, which is of brief duration. Where all
three are abundant, there is the true El Dorado of the apiarian! With plenty
of clover and buckwheat, it is nearly as well. Even with clover alone,
enormous quantities of honey are obtained. I have said what was our
dependence in this section. I will further say that within a circle of three or
four miles, there are kept about three hundred stocks. I have had for several
years, three apiaries about two miles apart, averaging in spring a little more
than fifty in each. When a good season for clover occurs, as many more
would probably do equally well, but in some other seasons I have had too
many; on an average nearly right. When clover furnishes too little honey for
the number, buckwheat usually supplies more than is collected. Of surplus
honey, the proportion is about fifteen pounds of buckwheat to one of clover.
I have now been speaking of large apiaries. There can hardly be a section of
country found, that man can procure his living, but what a few stocks would
thrive, even if there were no dependence on the sources just mentioned.
There will be some honey-yielding flowers in nearly all places. The evil of
over-stocking is of short duration, and will work its own cure speedily.
Some judgment is required here as well as in other matters.

Another question of some interest, is the distance that a bee will travel in
search of honey in flowers—it is evident that it will be farther than they will
go to plunder a stock. I have heard of their being found seven miles from
home. It was said they ascertained, by sprinkling flour on them as they left
the hive in the morning, and then saw the same bees that distance away.
When we consider the chances of finding a bee even one mile from the hive
thus marked, it appears like a "poor look;" and then pollen the color of flour
might deceive us. It is difficult to prove that bees go even two miles. Let us
say we guess at it, for the present.

CHAPTER V.

WAX.

The careless, unreflecting observer, when seeing the bees enter the hive
with a pellet of pollen on each of their posterior legs, is very apt to conclude
that it must be material for comb, as it appears unlike honey. So little regard
is paid to the matter by many people, that they are unable to imagine any
other use for it. Others suppose that it will change from that to honey, after
being stored a time in the hive, and wonder at the curious phenomenon; but
when asked how long a time must elapse before it takes place, they cannot
tell exactly, but they "have found cells where it began to change, as a
portion near the outer end of the cell had become honey, and no doubt the
remainder would in time." It has been remarked that cells were only filled
about two-thirds full of this, and finished with honey; now when any one
finds a cell filled to the brim with pollen, and no honey, such reasoning will
apply better. If this was the case, by examining at different periods through
the summer, we certainly should find some cells before the change had
commenced, instead of their always being in just this stage of transition.

IS POLLEN CONVERTED INTO WAX?

As for pollen being converted into wax or comb, a simple question will
show its fallacy. Do not the bees belonging to a hive that is full of combs,
and no more wax for that purpose needed, bring home as much and often
more pollen than one half full? Any person who has watched two such hives
five minutes when busily engaged at work, can answer. It is evident, then,
that pollen is for something else besides wax.

HOW IS IT OBTAINED?

The inquiry is now made, "Where do they get it from, if not from pollen?" I
might with propriety answer, they don't get it at all. "Stop, there, if you
please; if you expect us to credit you, you must not give us too much
absurdity." Well, let me ask a question. Do cattle when grazing actually
obtain flesh, bone, &c., or only the materials from which these parts are
secreted? As to the production of wax, I believe all close observers (that I
have found) agree that it is a secretion natural only to the bee. With the ox,
fruit, grain, or grass may be converted into tallow; with the bee, honey and
syrup made of sugar may be converted into wax. These are probably the
only two substances yet discovered from which they extract it. Some
writers have pretended that pollen is also used, but they have failed to prove
that the old bees consume it at any time; which they must in this case if it is
converted into wax. From experiments related by Huber, either of these
substances, mixed with a little water, is all sufficient for its production.
From experiments of my own, I am satisfied that he is correct. The
experiment is tried by shutting up a swarm when first hived; feeding them
with honey—a few of the bees will probably have some pollen, though not
enough to make a comb three inches square, yet it is something—and to be
certain, time must be given them to exhaust it. In three or four days take out
the bees and remove the combs; inclose them again, and feed with honey as
before. Repeat the process, until satisfied that no pollen is needed in the
composition of wax. Huber removed the combs "five times," with the same
result at every trial. Whenever bees are confined in hot weather, air and
water are absolutely necessary.

We will now describe the first appearance of wax, and how it is produced.
When a swarm of bees is about leaving the parent stock, three-fourths or
more of them will fill their sacks with honey. When located in their new
home, of course no cells exist to hold it; it must remain in the stomach or
sack for several hours. The consequence is, that thin white scales of wax the
sixteenth of an inch in diameter, somewhat circular, are formed between the

rings of the abdomen, under side. With the claws of one of their hind legs
one of these is detached and conveyed to the mouth, and there pinched with
their forceps or teeth, until one edge is worked somewhat rough; it is then
applied to the comb being constructed, or to the roof of the hive. The first
rudiments of comb are often applied within the first half hour after the
swarm is hived. In the history of insects before noticed, is a minute account
of the first foundation of combs, somewhat amusing, if not instructive.

HUBER'S ACCOUNT OF A COMMENCEMENT OF COMB.

Huber, it is said, "having provided a hive with honey and water, it was
resorted to in crowds by bees, who, having satisfied their appetite, returned
to the hive. They formed festoons, remained motionless for twenty-four
hours, and after a time scales of wax appeared. An adequate supply of wax
for the construction of a comb having been elaborated, one of them
disengaged itself from the centre of the group, and clearing a space about an
inch in diameter, at the top of the hive, applied the pincers of one of its legs
to its side, detached a scale of wax, and immediately began to mince it with
the tongue. During the operation, this organ was made to assume every
variety of shape; sometimes it appeared like a trowel, then flattened like a
spatula, and at other times like a pencil, ending in a point. The scale,
moistened with a frothy liquid, became glutinous, and was drawn out like a
riband. This bee then attached all the wax it could concoct to the vault of
the hive, and went its way. A second now succeeded, and did the like; a
third followed, but owing to some blunder did not put the wax in the same
line with its predecessor; upon which another bee, apparently sensible of
the defect, removed the displaced wax, and carrying it to the former heap,
deposited it there, exactly in the order and direction pointed out." Now I
have some objections to make to this account. First, in the usual course of
swarming, it is unnecessary to provide the honey and water, as they come
laden with honey from the parent stock. Next, to form festoons and remain
motionless twenty-four hours to concoct the wax, is not the way they

generally manage affairs. They either swallow the honey before leaving
home long enough to have the wax ready, or less time than twenty-four
hours is needed to produce it. I have frequently found lumps, half the size
of a pin's head, attached to the branch of a tree where they had clustered,
when they had not been there over twenty-five minutes. I have had occasion
a few times to change the swarm to another tenement, an hour or two after
being hived, and found places on the top nearly covered with wax. How it
was managed to see a bee quit the "group," is more than I can comprehend;
and then the tongue to be the only instrument used to mould the scale of
wax, is another difficulty; to witness the whole process minutely in this
stage of comb-making has never been my good fortune, and I am
sometimes inclined to doubt the success of others. I have had glass hives,
and put swarms in them, and always found the first rudiments of comb so
entirely covered with bees as to prevent my seeing anything.

BEST TIME TO WITNESS COMB-MAKING.

The only time when I have witnessed the process with any degree of
satisfaction is when the combs approach the glass, and but few bees in the
way; then, by watching patiently a few minutes, some part of the process
may be seen.

MANNER OF WORKING WAX.

Transferring the swarms to different hives from one to forty-eight hours
after being hived, will show their progress. I have found that wax is
attached to the top of the hive at first promiscuously, that is, without the
least order, until some of the blocks or lumps are sufficiently advanced for
them to begin cells. The scales of wax are welded on the edge quite thick,
without regard to the shape of the cell, then an excavation is made on one
side for the bottom of a cell, and two others on the opposite side; the
division between them exactly opposite the centre of the first. When this

piece is an inch or two in length, two other pieces at equal distances on each
side are commenced. If the swarm is large, and honey abundant, it is
common for two pieces of comb to be started at one time on different parts
of the top; the sheets in the two places are often at right angles, or any other
way, just as chance happens to give direction. The little lumps that are
placed at random at first are all removed as they advance.

While the combs are in progress, the edges are always kept much the
thickest, and the base of the cell is worked down to the proper thickness
with their teeth, and polished smooth as glass. The ends of the cell also, as
they lengthen them, will always be found much thicker than any other part
of it when finished.

When two combs approach each other in the middle of the hive at nearly
right angles, an edge of comb is left there; but when an obtuse angle, the
edges are generally joined, making a sheet of crooked comb. It is evident
where the two combs join, there must be some irregular cells unfit for
rearing brood.

CROOKED COMBS A DISADVANTAGE.

These few irregular cells have been considered a great disadvantage. It is
thought, or pretended, that there is a vast difference between the prosperity
of a stock with straight combs and one with crooked ones. To avoid them,
or cause the bees to make them all straight, has given rise to much
contrivance, as if a few such cells could effect much. Suppose there were a
dozen sheets of comb in a hive, and each one had a row or more of such
irregular cells from top to bottom, what proportion would they hold to those
that were perfect? Perhaps not one in a thousand. Hence we infer that in a
hive of the proper size, the difference in amount of brood never could be
perceived. This is the only difference it can make, because such cells can be
used for storing honey as well as others. But sometimes there will be
corners and spaces not wide enough for two combs, and too wide for one of

the proper thickness for breeding. As bees use all their room economically,
and generally at the best advantage, a thick comb will be the result. It is said
they never use such thick combs for breeding. How are the facts? I have just
such a space in a glass hive; one comb two inches thick. How is it
managed? Towards fall this sheet is filled with honey; the cells outside are
lengthened until there is just room for a bee to pass between them and the
glass, when they are sealed over. In spring these long cells are all cut down
(except at the top and upper corners) to the proper length for breeding, and
used for this purpose. This has been done for five years in succession.

I will grant that there is a little waste room in such spaces, for part of the
year. It amounts to but little, as it is only outside. They are necessitated to
make such combs, because the inside combs, if built in a breeding
apartment, however crooked one may be, the next one will generally match
it, the right distance from it. But when they are built expressly for storing
honey, in such as are made in boxes, the right distance is not so well
preserved; hence it is not recommended to compel bees to use such storing
apartment for breeding. But suppose we should compel a swarm to labor
under these disadvantages, I should not apprehend such disastrous results,
(providing they have a proper proportion of worker cells,) as no swarms, or
even no surplus honey, as has been represented. Imagine a hive filled with
combs that are all too thick, and room wasted when cut down, to the
amount of one-fourth of all that is in the hive. Now here are combs enough
left to mature three-fourths as many bees as in an ordinary hive, where all
are right. We can now suppose a good swarm will bring home the same
amount of honey as though it belonged to other hives; only three-fourths as
much can be fed to the brood, and stored in the hive; and the result ought to
be, that we get a quarter more surplus honey in boxes. Even if we get no
swarm, I cannot see how our surplus honey can be less, as in this case there
would be more bees at all times than in a hive that had been reduced by
swarming.

Does experience substantiate the theory that stocks with crooked combs are
as profitable as when they are straight? When combs are built expressly for
breeding, I could never discover any difference. Any person can easily test
it by a little observation; not by taking a solitary instance of only one hive,
because some other cause might produce the result. Take a half-dozen at
least with straight combs, and as many with them crooked; have them all
alike in other respects, and carefully watch the result. I think you will have
but little interest which way the combs are made, providing they are made,
as far as profit is concerned. It is true, it would gratify order to have them
all straight, and if it was not attended with more trouble than the result
would pay for, it would be well to have them so.

In ordinary circumstances, when a swarm is first hived, they set about
comb-making immediately; yet sometimes they will remain two days, and
not make a particle. I have known them to swarm out and cluster in the
usual way, and when rehived, commence at once. This seems to prove that
they can retain the wax, or prevent secreting it, till wanted. This seldom
occurs.

UNCERTAINTY IN WEIGHT OF BEES.

A large swarm will probably carry with them some five or six pounds of
honey from the parent stock. I only guess at this, because I am uncertain
what the bees weigh exactly. "I can tell you," some one exclaims, "I saw
some weighed,—so many weigh just eight ounces." Are you sure there was
nothing but bees weighed? Was there no honey, bee-bread, fæces, or other
substance, that might deceive you? "Can't say; I never thought of that!"
Now it is important, if we weigh bees to know their weight, to be sure we
weigh nothing else. It is evident, that if five thousand weigh three pounds,
when nothing is in their sacks, they would weigh, when filled with honey,
several pounds more. Hence, the fallacy of judging of the size of a swarm
by weight, as one swarm might issue with half the honey of another.
Perhaps eight pounds, for large swarms, might be an average for bees and

honey. This honey, whatever it amounts to, cannot be stored till combs are
constructed to hold it. This principle holds good till the hive is full. That is,
whenever they have more honey than the combs will hold, if there is room
in the hive, they construct more. But they seem to go no farther than this in
comb-making. However large the swarm may be, this compulsion appears
necessary to fill the hive. Drone-cells are seldom made in the top of the
hive, but a part are generally joined on the worker-cells, a little distance
from the top; others near the bottom. There seems to be no rule about the
number of such cells. Some hives will contain twice the number of others. It
may depend on the yield of honey at the time; when very plenty, more
drone-cells, &c. If the hive be very large, no doubt an unprofitable number
would be constructed. Where the large and small cells join, there will be
some cells of irregular shape; some with four or five angles; the distance
from one angle to the other is also varied. Even where two combs of cells
the same size join, making a straight comb, they are not always perfect.

SOME WAX WASTED.

When constructing comb, they are constantly wasting wax, either
accidentally or voluntarily. The next morning after a swarm is located, the
scales may be found, and will continue to increase as long as they are
working it; the quantity often amounts to a handful or more. It is the best
test of comb-making that I can give. Clean off the board and look the next
morning, you will find the scales in proportion to their progress. Some will
be nearly round as at first; others more or less worked up, and a part will be
like fine saw-dust.

Huber and some others have divided the working bees into different classes,
denominating some wax-workers, others nurses, and pollen gatherers, &c. It
may be partially true, but how it was found out is the mystery.

The angles in the cells used for brood, are gradually filled, and after a time
become round, both at the ends and sides.

WATER NECESSARY TO COMB-MAKING.

Whenever bees are engaged making comb, a supply of water is absolutely
necessary. Some think it requisite in rearing brood. It may be needed for
that, or it may be required for both purposes; but yet I have doubts if a
particle is given to the young bee, besides what the honey contains. June,
and first part of July, and most part of August (the season of buckwheat,)
are periods of extensive comb-making; they then use most water; breeding
is carried on from March till October, and as extensively in May, perhaps
more so, than in August, yet not a tenth part of the water is used in May.

I have known stocks repeatedly to mature brood from the egg to the perfect
bee, when shut in a dark room for months, when it was impossible to obtain
a drop; also stocks that stand in the cold, (if good,) will mature some brood
whether the bees can leave the hive or not. These facts prove that some are
reared without water. As they get sufficient honey to require more comb to
store it, they will at the same time have a brood; and it is easy to guess they
need it for brood as comb, without a little investigation. This much is
certain, that they use water at such times for some purpose, and when no
pond, brook, spring, or other source is within convenient distance, the
apiarian would find it economy to place some within their reach, as it would
save much valuable time, if they would otherwise have to go a great
distance, when they might be more profitably employed; it always happens
in a season of honey. It should be so situated that the bees may obtain it
without jeopardizing their lives;—a barrel or pail has sides so steep that a
great many will slip off and drown. A trough made very shallow, with a
good broad strip around the edge to afford an alighting place, should be
provided. The middle should contain a float, or a handful of shavings spread
in the water with a few small stones laid on them to prevent their being
blown away when the water is out, is very convenient. A tin dish an inch or
so in depth, will do very well. The quantity needed may be ascertained by
what is used—only give them enough, and change it daily. I have no trouble
of this kind, as there is a stream of water within a few rods of the hives; but

I have an opportunity to witness something of the number engaged in
carrying it. Thousands may be seen (in June and August) filling their sacks,
while a continual stream is on the wing, going and returning.

REMARKS.

The exact and uniform size of their cells is perhaps as great a mystery as
anything pertaining to them; yet, we find the second wonder before we are
done with the first. In building comb, they have no square or compass as a
guide; no master mechanic takes the lead, measuring and marking for the
workmen; each individual among them is a finished mechanic! No time is
lost as an apprentice, no service given in return for instruction! Each is
accomplished from birth! All are alike; what one begins, a dozen may help
to finish! A specimen of their work shows itself to be from the hands of
master workmen, and may be taken as a model of perfection! He, who
arranged the universe, was their instructor. Yes, a profound geometrician
planned the first cell, and knowing what would be their wants, implanted in
the sensorium of the first bee, all things pertaining to their welfare; the
impress then given, is yet retained unimpaired! They need no lectures on
domestic economy to tell them, by using the base of one set of cells on one
side of their combs, for the base of those on the opposite, will save both
labor and wax; no mathematician that a pyramidal base, just three angles,
with just such an inclination, will be the exact shape needed, and consume
much less wax than round or square—that the base of one cell of three
angles, would form a part of the base of three other cells on the opposite
side of the comb—that each of the six sides of one cell forms one side of
six others around it—that these angles and these only would answer their
ends.

"The bees appear," says Reaumer, "to have a problem to solve, which would
puzzle many a mathematician. A quantity of matter being given, it is
required to form out of it cells, which shall be equal, and similar, and of a

determinate size, but the largest possible with relation to the quantity of
matter employed, while they shall occupy the least possible space!"

How little does the epicure heed, when feasting on the fruits of their
industry, that each morsel tasted must destroy the most perfect specimens of
workmanship! that in a moment he can demolish what it has taken hours,
yes days, perhaps weeks, of assiduous toil and labor, for the bees to
accomplish!

CHAPTER VI.

PROPOLIS.

WHAT USED FOR.

This substance is first used to solder up all the cracks, flaws, and
irregularities about the hive. A coat is then spread over the inside
throughout; when the hive is full, and many bees cluster outside, the latter
part of summer, a coat of it is also spread there. An additional coat it seems
is annually applied, as old hives will be coated with a thickness
proportionate to its age, providing it has been occupied with a strong
family. Huber has said it was also used to strengthen the cells when first
made, by mixing it with the wax. If it was their practice at that time, the
practice has been abandoned by our bees to a great extent. I have made
examinations when comb was first made, when it contained eggs, and when
it contained larvæ, and have never been able to find anything other than
pure wax composing it. After a young bee has matured in a cell, the coating
or cocoon that it leaves is of a dark color, somewhat resembling it, and may
have given rise to the supposition. How the article is obtained, appears to be
the mystery. This is a subject about which apiarians have failed to agree. A
few contend that it is an elaborated substance; while others assert it to be a
resinous gum, exuding from certain trees, and collected by the bees like
pollen. It differs materially from wax, being more tenacious, and when it
gets a little age, much harder.

IS IT AN ELABORATE OR NATURAL SUBSTANCE?

No modern observer has ever been able to detect the bees in the act of
gathering it.

HUBER'S OPINION.

Huber tells us, that "near the outlet of one of his hives, he placed some of
the branches of the poplar, which exuded a transparent juice, the color of
garnet. Several workers were soon seen perched upon these branches,—
having detached some of this resinous gum, they formed it into pellets, and
deposited them in the baskets of their thighs; thus loaded, they flew to the
hive, where some of their fellow-laborers instantly came to assist them in
detaching this viscid substance from their baskets." Some of our modern
apiarians have doubted this account of Huber's. Now, in the absence of
anything positive on this subject, I am inclined to adopt this theory; that it is
a resin or gum produced by trees. (I cannot say that I am exactly satisfied
with the story of bringing the "branches and laying them by the hive," &c.)
That bees gather it in its natural state, is in accordance with my own
observation.

FURTHER PROOF.

Our first swarms that issue in May, or first of June, seldom use much of the
article pure for soldering and plastering; but instead, a composition, the
most of which is wax. I have noticed at this season, when old pieces of
boards that had been used for hives, were left in the sun, that this old
propolis would become soft in the middle of the day. Here I have frequently
seen the bees at work, packing it upon their legs; it was detached in small
particles, and the process of packing was seen distinctly, as the bee did not
fly during the operation, as in the case of packing pollen. It is asserted that
when bees need it they always have it, indicating that they can elaborate it
like wax. I can see no reason why they do not need it in June as much as
August; yet, in the latter month, they use more than a hundred times the

quantity. At this time, they manifest no disposition to gather any from the
old boards, &c. It would seem they prefer the article new, which they now
have in abundance. Boxes filled in June contain but very little, sometimes
none. Why not, if they have enough of it? but when filled in August, they
always have the corners, and sometimes the top and sides, lined with a good
coat. Cracks, large enough for bees to pass through, are sometimes
completely filled with it. In this season, a little before sunset of some fair
day, I have frequently seen the bees enter the hive with what I supposed to
be the pure article on their legs, like pollen, except the surface, which
would be smooth and glossy; the color much lighter than when it gets age. I
have also seen them through the glass inside, when they seemed unable to
dislodge it themselves, like pollen, and were continually running around
among those engaged in soldering and plastering; when one required a
little, it seized hold of the pellet with its teeth or forceps, and detached a
portion. The whole lump will not cleave off at once; but firmly adheres to
the leg; from its tenacity, perhaps a string an inch long will be formed in
separating, the piece obtained is immediately applied to their work, and the
bee is ready to supply another with a portion; it doubtless gets rid of its load
in this way; it is difficult to watch it till it is freed from the whole, as it is
soon lost among its fellows. Now if this substance is not found in its natural
state, how does it happen that they pack it on their legs just as they do when
getting it from a board of an old hive, or pollen, when collected? They
never take the trouble to pack the wax there, when elaborated. Do not these
circumstances strongly favor the idea of its being a vegetable substance?
Perhaps the reason of its being collected at this season in greater abundance,
may be found in the fact, that the buds of trees and shrubs are now
generally formed. Many kinds are protected from rain and frost, by a kind
of gum or resinous coating. It may be found in many species of Populus,
particularly the balsam poplar, (Populus Balsamifera) and the Balm of
Gilead, (Populus Candicans). By boiling the buds of these trees, an
aromatic resin or gum may be obtained, (used sometimes for making salve;)
the odor is very similar to that emitted by propolis, when first gathered by
the bees, or by heating it afterwards. In the absence of facts, we are apt to

substitute theory. This appears to me to be very plausible. Yet I am ready to
yield it as soon as facts decide differently. Perhaps not one bee in a
thousand is engaged in collecting this substance—there being so few may
be one reason why they are not often detected, yet few as they are, a few of
us should set about close observation; something certain might decide.
Apiarian science is sadly neglected; a large amount of error is mixed up
with truth, that patient, scrutinizing investigation must separate.

REMARKS.

I feel anxious to get to the practical part of this work, which I hope will
interest some readers who care but little about the natural history. I shall
begin with spring, and will now endeavor to mix more of the practical with
it, as we proceed to the end of the year. In order to illustrate some points of
practice, I may have occasion to repeat some things already mentioned.

CHAPTER VII.

THE APIARY.

ITS LOCATION.

In the location of the apiary, one important consideration is, that it is
convenient to watch in the swarming season; that the bees may be seen at
any time from a door or window, when a swarm rises, without the trouble of
taking many steps to accomplish it; because if much trouble is to be taken,
it is too often neglected. Also, if possible, the hives should stand where the
wind will have but little effect, especially from the northwest. If no hills or
building offer a protection, a close, high board fence should be put up for
the purpose. It is economy to do it—bees enough may be saved to pay the
expense. During the first spring months, the stocks contain fewer bees than
at any other season. It is then that a numerous family is important, for the
purpose of creating animal heat to rear the brood, if for nothing else. One
bee is of more consequence now than a half dozen in midsummer. When the
hive stands in a bleak place, the bees returning with heavy loads, in a high
wind, are frequently unable to strike the hive, and are blown to the ground;
become chilled, and die. A chilly south wind is equally fatal, but not so
frequent. When protected from winds, the hives may front any point you
choose; east or south is generally preferred. A location near ponds, lakes,
large rivers, &c., will be attended with some loss. Hard winds will fatigue
the bees when on the wing, often causing them to alight in the water; where
it is impossible to rise again until wafted ashore, and then, unless in very
warm weather, they are so chilled as to be past the effort. I do not mention
this to discourage any one from keeping them, when so situated, because

some few must keep them thus or not at all. I am so situated myself. There
is a pond of four acres, some twelve rods off. In spring, during high winds,
a great many may be found drowned, and driven on shore. Although we
cannot miss so few from a stock, it is nevertheless a loss as far as it goes.

DECIDE EARLY.

Whatever location is chosen, it should be decided upon as early in the
spring as possible; because, when the chilling winds of winter have ceased
for a day, and the sun, unobstructed, is sending his first warm rays to a
frozen earth, the bees that have been inactive for months, feel the cheering
influence, and come forth to enjoy the balmy air. As they come from their
door, they pause a moment to rub their eyes, which have long been
obscured in darkness.

BEES MARK THEIR LOCATION ON LEAVING THE HIVE.

They rise on the wing, but do not leave in a direct line, but immediately turn
their heads towards the entrance of their tenement, describing a circle of
only a few inches at first, but enlarge as they recede, until an area of several
rods have been viewed and marked.

CHANGING STAND ATTENDED WITH LOSS.

After a few excursions, when surrounding objects have become familiar,
this precaution is not taken, and they leave in a direct line for their
destination, and return by their way-marks without difficulty. Man with his
reason is guided on the same principles. There are a great many people who
suppose the bee knows its hive by a kind of instinct, or is attracted towards
it, like the steel to the magnet. At least, they act as if they did; as they often
move their bees a few rods, or feet, after the location is thus marked, and
what is the consequence? The stocks are materially injured by loss of bees,

and sometimes entirely ruined. Let us trace the cause. As I remarked, the
bees have marked the location. They leave the hive without any precaution,
as surrounding objects are familiar. They return to their old stand and find
no home. If there is more than one stock, and the removal has been from
four to twenty feet, some of the bees may find a hive, but just as liable to
enter the wrong one as the right. Probably they would not go over twenty
feet, and very likely not that, unless the new situation was very
conspicuous. If a person had but one stock, very likely the loss would be
less, as every bee finding a hive, would be sure to be home, and none killed,
as is generally the case when a few enter a strange hive.

CAN BE TAKEN SOME DISTANCE.

When bees are taken beyond their knowledge of country, some two miles or
more, the case seems to be somewhat different, but not always without loss,
especially if many hives are set too close. They leave the hive of course
without knowing that the situation has been changed; perhaps get a few feet
before strange objects warn them of the fact. When they return, the
immediate vicinity is strange, and they often enter their neighbors' domicil.

DANGER OF SETTING STOCKS TOO CLOSE.

A case in point occurred in the spring of '49. I sold over twenty stocks to
one person. He had constructed a bee-house, and his arrangement brought
the hives within four inches of each other. The result was, he entirely lost
several stocks; some of them were the best; others were materially injured,
yet he had a few made better by the addition of bees from other hives;
(sometimes a stock will allow strange bees to unite with them, but it is
seldom, unless a large number enters—it is safest to keep each family by
itself, under ordinary circumstances). These stocks, before they were
moved, had been collecting pollen, and had their location well marked. Had
they been placed six feet apart, instead of four inches, he probably would

not have lost any, or even two feet might have saved them. I have often
moved them at this season, and placed them at three feet distance, and had
no bad results.

Facts like the foregoing, satisfied me long since that stocks should occupy
their situation for the summer, as early as possible in the spring, at least
before they mark the location; or if they must be moved after that, let it be
nothing short of a mile and a half, and plenty of room between the hives.

SPACE BETWEEN HIVES.

As regards the distance between hives generally, I would say let it be as
great as convenience will allow. Want of room makes it necessary
sometimes to set them close; where such necessity exists, if the hives were
dissimilar in color, some dark, others light, alternately, it would greatly
assist the bees in knowing their own hive. But it should be borne in mind,
that whenever economy of space dictates less than two feet, there are often
bees enough lost by entering the wrong hive, which, if saved, would pay the
rent of a small addition to a garden, or bee-yard. I have several other
reasons to offer for giving plenty of room between hives, which will be
mentioned hereafter.

SMALL MATTERS.

The reader who is accustomed to doing things on gigantic principles, will
consider this long "yarn" about saving a few bees in spring, a rather small
affair, and so it is; yet small matters must be attended to if we succeed; "a
small leak will sink a ship." A grain of wheat is a small matter; 'tis only in
the aggregate that its importance is manifest. The bee is small, the load of
honey brought home by it is still less, and the quantity secreted in the
nectary of each flower, yet more minute. The patient bee visits each, and
obtains but a tiny morsel; by perseverance a load is obtained, and deposited

in the hive; it is only by the accumulation of such loads that we find an
object worthy our notice: here is a lesson; look to little things, and the
manner in which they are multiplied, and preserved. It is much better to
save our bees than waste them, and wait for others to be raised; "a penny
saved is worth two-pence earned." If a stock is lost by small means, a
corresponding effort is only necessary to save it. This trifling care is
sometimes neglected through indolence. But I hope for better things
generally; I am willing to believe it is thorough ignorance, not knowing
what kind of care is necessary—how, when, and where to bestow it. This is
what now appears to be my duty to tell. You will now sufficiently
understand the cause of loss on this point; therefore, let it be a rule to have
all ready in spring, before the bees leave their hives—the stands, bee-house,
etc., and not change them.

ECONOMY.

If we keep bees for ornament, it would be well to build a bee-house, paint
the hives, &c.; but as I expect the majority of readers will be interested in
the profit of the thing, I will say that the bees will not pay a cent towards
extra expenses; they will not do a whit more labor in a painted house, than
if it was thatched with straw. When profit is the only object, economy
would dictate that labor shall be bestowed only where there will be a
remuneration.

CHEAP ARRANGEMENT OF STANDS.

So many kinds of bee-houses and stands have been recommended—all so
different from what I prefer, that I perhaps ought to feel some hesitancy in
offering one so cheap and simple; but as profit is my object, I shall offer no
other apology. I have fifteen years' experience to prove its efficacy, and
have no fears on this score in recommending it. I make stands in this way: a
board about fifteen inches wide is cut off two feet long; a piece of chestnut

or other wood, two inches square, is nailed on each end; this raises the
board just two inches from the earth, and will project in front of the hive
some ten inches, making it admirably convenient for the bees to alight
before entering the hive, (when the grass and weeds are kept down, which is
but little trouble). A separate piece for each hive is better than to have
several on a bench together, as there can then be no communication by bees
running to and fro. Also we are apt to give more room between them; and a
board or plank will make a stand for as many stocks when cut in pieces, as
if left whole; (and it ought to make more).

CANAL BOTTOM-BOARD DISCARDED.

I used what is termed a canal bottom-board, until I found out it did not pay
expense, and have now discarded it, and succeed just as well. It is generally
recommended as a preventive of robberies, and keeping out the moth. It
may prevent one hive in fifty from being robbed; but as for keeping out the
moth, it is about as good an assistant for it as can be contrived. It is a place
of great convenience for the worms to spin their cocoons, and some
ingenuity of the apiarian is requisite to get at them.

SOME ADVANTAGE IN BEING NEAR THE EARTH.

I am aware that I go counter to most apiarians, in recommending the stands
so near the earth; less than two or three feet between the bees and the earth,
it is said, will not answer any way. Mr. Miner is very positive on this point,
in his Manual. I ventured to suggest to him, that there was more against it in
theory, than in practice, and gave him my experience. In less than two years
from that time I visited him, and found his bees close to the earth.
Experience is worth a dozen theories; in fact, it is the only test to be
depended upon. I shall not urge the adoption of any rule, that I have not
proved by my own practice. The objection raised, is dampness from the
earth, when too near; I am unable to perceive the least bad effect. Now let

us compare advantages and disadvantages a little farther. One hive or a row
of hives suspended, or standing on a bench, two or three feet from the earth,
when approached by the bees on a chilly afternoon, (and we have many
such in spring,) towards evening, even if there is not much wind, they are
very apt to miss the hive and bottom, and fall to the ground, so benumbed
with cold, as to be unable to rise again, and by the next morning are "no
use" whatever. On the other hand, if they are near the earth, with a board as
described, there is no possibility of their alighting under the hive, and if
they should come short, and get on the ground, they can always creep, long
after they are too cold to fly, and are able, and often do enter the hive
without the necessity of using their wings.

Enough may be saved in one spring, from a few hives, in this way, to make
a good swarm, which taken from several is not perceived; yet, as much
profit from them might be realized, as if they were a swarm by themselves.
A little contrivance is all that is needed to save them. To such as must and
will have them up away from the earth, I would say, do suggest some plan
to save this portion of your best and most willing servants; have an
alighting board project in front of the hive at least one foot, or a board long
enough to reach from the bottom of the hive to the ground, that they may
get on that, and crawl up to the hive. Do you want the inducement?
Examine minutely the earth about your hives, towards sunset, some day in
April, when the day has been fair, with some wind, and chilly towards
night, and you will be astonished at the numbers that perish. Most of them
will be loaded with pollen, proving them martyrs to their own industry and
your negligence. When I see a bench three feet high and no wider than the
bottom of the hive, perhaps a little less, and no place for the bees to enter
but at the bottom, and as many hives crowded on as it will hold, I no longer
wonder that "bee-keeping is all in luck;" the wonder is how they keep them
at all. Yet it proves that, with proper management, it is not so very
precarious after all.

The necessary protection from the weather, for stocks, is a subject that I
have taken some pains to ascertain; the result has been, that the cheapest
covering is just as good as any; something to keep the rain and rays of the
sun from the top, is all sufficient. Covers for each hive, like the bottom-
board, should be separate, and some larger than the top.

UTILITY OF BEE-HOUSES DOUBTED.

I have used bee-houses, but they will not pay, and are also discarded. They
are objectionable on account of preventing a free circulation of air; also, it
is difficult to construct them, so that the sun may strike the hives both in the
morning and afternoon; which in spring is very essential. If they front the
south, the middle of the day is the only time when the sun can reach all the
hives at once; this is just when they need it least; and in hot weather,
sometimes injurious by melting the combs. But when the hives stand far
enough apart, on my plan, it is very easily arranged to have the sun strike
the hive in the morning and afternoon, and shaded from ten o'clock, till two
or three, in hot weather.

Notwithstanding our prodigality in building a splendid bee-house, we think
of economy when we come to put our hives in, and get them too close.
"Can't afford to build a house, and give them so much room, no how."

CHAPTER VIII.

ROBBERIES.

Robbing is another source of occasional loss to the apiarian. It is frequent in
spring, and at any time in warm weather when honey is scarce. It is very
annoying, and sometimes gets neighbors in contention, when perhaps
neither is to blame, farther than ignorance of the matter.

NOT PROPERLY UNDERSTOOD.

A person keeping many hives must expect to be accountable for all losses in
his neighborhood, whether they are lost by mismanagement or want of
management. Many people suppose, if one person has but one stock, and
another has ten, that the ten will combine for plundering the one. There are
no facts, showing any communication between different families of the
same apiary, that I can discover. It is true, when one family finds another
weak and defenceless, possessing treasure, they have no conscientious
scruples about carrying off the last particle. The hurry and bustle attending
it seldom escape the notice of the other families; and when one hive has
been robbed in an apiary, perhaps two-thirds of the other families,
sometimes all, have participated in the plunder. One family, if it be large, is
just as likely, and more so, to find a weak one among the ten, and
commence plundering, as the other way.

IMPROPER REMEDIES.

Notwithstanding it is common to hear remarks like this, "I had a first-rate
hive of bees," (when the fact was he had not looked particularly at his bees
for a month, to know whether it was so or not, and if he had, very likely
would not know,) "and Mr. A.'s bees began to rob them. I tried every thing
to stop it; I moved them around in several places to prevent their finding the
hive. It did no good; the first I knew they were all gone—bees, honey, and
all! The bees all joined the robbers." Now the fact is, that not one good
stock of bees in fifty, will ever be robbed, if let alone; that is, if the entrance
is properly protected. This moving the hive was enough to ruin any stock;
bees were lost at every change, until nothing was left but honey to tempt the
robbers; whereas, if left on its stand, it might have escaped.

A great many remedies have been given me gratis, which, had one-half
been followed, would have ruined them. The fact is, with many people, the
remedies are often the cause of the disease. The most fatal is, to move them
a few rods; another, to close the hive entirely, (very liable to smother them);
or, break out some comb and set the honey to running. There are some
charms that affect them but little any way. Probably there are but few bee-
keepers able to tell at once, when bees are being robbed. It requires the
closest scrutinizing observation to decide.

DIFFICULTY IN DECIDING.

There is nothing about the apiary more difficult to determine, nothing more
likely than to be deceived. It is generally supposed, when a number are
outside fighting, that it is conclusive that they are also robbing, which is
seldom the case. On the contrary, a show of resistance indicates a strong
colony, and that they are disposed to defend their treasures. I no longer have
any fears for a stock that has courage to repel an attack.

WEAK FAMILIES IN MOST DANGER.

It is weak families, that show no resistance, where we find the most danger.
In seasons of scarcity, all good stocks maintain or keep sentinels about the
entrance, whose duty it appears to be to examine every bee that attempts to
enter. If it is a member of the community, it is allowed to pass; if not, it is
examined on the spot. It would seem that a password was requisite for
admittance, for no sooner does a stranger-bee endeavor to get in, than it is
known. If without necessary credentials, there is evidence enough against it.
Each bee is a qualified jurist, judge, and executioner. There is no delay; no
waiting for witnesses for defence. The more a bee attempts to escape, the
more likely it will be to receive a sting, unless it succeeds. How strange
bees are known, would be nothing but theory, if I should attempt to explain.
Let it suffice that they are known.

THEIR BATTLES.

I will here describe some of their battles. I have in the spring frequently
seen the whole front side of the hive covered with the combatants, (but for
such hives I have no fears; they are able to defend themselves.) Several will
surround one stranger; one or two will bite its legs, another the wings;
another will make a feint of stinging, while another is ready to take what
honey it has, when worried sufficient to make it willing. It is sometimes
allowed to go after yielding all its honey, but at others, is dispatched with a
sting, which is almost instantly fatal. A bee is killed sooner by a sting, than
by any other means, except crushing. Sometimes a leg will tremble, for a
minute; the legs are drawn close to the body; the abdomen contracts to half
its usual size, unless filled with honey. I have known a pint accidentally to
enter a neighboring stock, and be killed in five minutes. The only places the
sting will penetrate a bee are the joints of the abdomen, legs, the neck, &c. I
have occasionally seen one bee drag about the dead body of its victim,
being unable to withdraw its sting from a joint in the leg. During the fight,
if it be to keep off those in search of plunder, a few bees may be seen
buzzing around in search of a place unguarded to enter the hive. If such is

found, it alights and enters in a moment. At other times, when about to
enter, it meets a soldier on duty, and is on the wing again in an instant. But
another time it may be more unfortunate, and be nabbed by a policeman,
when it must either break away, or suffer the penalty of insect justice, which
is generally of the utmost severity.

BAD POLICY TO RAISE THE HIVES.

A great many apiarians raise their hives an inch from the board early in
spring. They seem to disregard the chance it gives robbers to enter on every
side. It is like setting the door of your own house open, to tempt the thief,
and then complain of depravity.

Let it be understood, then, that all good stocks, under ordinary
circumstances, will take care of themselves. Nature has provided means of
defence, with instinct to direct its use. Non-resistance may do for highly
cultivated intellect in man, but not here.

INDICATIONS OF ROBBERS.

We will now notice the appearance about a weak hive that makes no
resistance, and show the result to be a total loss of the stock, without timely
interference. Each robber, when leaving the hive, instead of flying in a
direct line to its home, will turn its head towards the hive to mark the spot,
that it may know where to return for another load, in the same manner that
they do when leaving their hive in the spring. The first time the young bees
leave home, they mark their location, by the same process. A few of these
begin to hatch from the cells very early; in all good stocks, often before the
weather is warm enough for any to leave the hive. Consequently, it cannot
be too early for them at any time in spring. These young bees, about the
middle of each fair day, or a little later, take a turn of flying out very thickly
for a short time. The inexperienced observer would be very likely to

suppose such stock very prosperous, from the number of inhabitants in
motion. This unusual bustle is the first indication of foul play, and should be
regarded with suspicion; yet it is not conclusive.

A DUTY.

It is the duty of every bee-keeper, who expects to succeed, to know which
his weak stocks are; an examination some cool morning, can be made by
turning the hive bottom up, and letting the sun among the combs. The
number of inhabitants in them is easily seen. When weak, close the
entrance, till there is just room for one bee to pass at once. The first real
pleasant days, at any time before honey is obtained plentifully, a little after
noon, look out for them to commence robbing. Whenever a weak stock is
taken with what appears to be a fit of unusual industry, it is quite certain
they are either robbers or young bees; the difficulty is to decide which.
Their motions are alike, but there is a little difference in color—the young
bees are a shade lighter; the abdomen of the robbers, when filled with
honey, is a little larger. It requires close, patient observation, to decide this
point, and when you have watched close enough to detect this difference,
you can decide without trouble.

A TEST.

But while you are learning this nice distinction, your bees may be ruined.
We will, therefore, give some other means of protection.

Bees, when they have been stealing a sack of honey from a neighboring
hive, will generally run several inches from the entrance before flying: kill
some of these; if filled with honey, they are robbers; because it is very
suspicious, to be filled with honey when leaving the hive; or sprinkle some
flour on them as they come out, and have some one watch by the others to
see if they enter. Another way is less trouble, but will take longer, before

they are checked, if robbing. Visit them again in the course of half an hour
or more, after the young bees have had time to get back, (if it should happen
to be them); but if the bustle continues or increases, it is time to interfere.
When the entrance has been contracted as directed, close it entirely till near
sunset. When it has been left without, it should now be done, (giving room
for only one bee at a time). This will allow all that belong to the hive to get
in, and others to get out, and materially retard the progress of the robbers.

ROBBING USUALLY COMMENCES ON A WARM DAY.

Unless it should be cool, they will continue their operations till evening.
Very often some are unable to get home in the dark, and are lost. This, by
the way, is another good test of robbing. Visit the hives every warm
evening. They commence depredations on the warmest days; seldom
otherwise. If any are at work when honest laborers should be at home, they
need attention.

REMEDIES.

As for remedies, I have tried several. The least trouble is to remove the
weak hive in the morning to the cellar, or some dark, cool place, for a few
days, until at least two or three warm days have passed, that they may
abandon the search. The robbers will then probably attack the stock on the
next stand. Contract the entrance of this in accordance with the number of
bees that are to pass. If strong, no danger need be apprehended; they may
fight, and even kill some; perhaps a little chastisement is necessary, to a
sense of their duty.

COMMON OPINION.

There is an opinion prevalent that robbers often go to a neighboring stock,
kill off the bees first, and then take possession of the treasures. To

corroborate this matter, I have never yet discovered one fact, although I
have watched very closely. Whenever bees have had all their stores taken, at
a period when nothing was to be had in the flowers, it is evident they must
starve, and last but a day or two before they are gone. This would naturally
give rise to the supposition that they were either killed, or gone with the
robbers.

A CASE IN POINT.

I have a case in point. Having been from home a couple of days, I found, on
my return, a swarm of medium strength, that had been carelessly exposed,
had been plundered of about fifteen pounds of honey, every particle they
had.13 About the usual number of bees were among the combs, to all
appearance, very disconsolate. I at once removed them to the cellar, and fed
them for a few days. The other bees gave over looking for more plunder, in
the meantime. It was then returned to the stand, entrance nearly closed, as
directed, &c. In a short time it made a valuable stock; but had I left it
twenty-four hours longer, it probably would not have been worth a straw.

FURTHER DIRECTIONS.

When a stock has been removed, if the next stand contains a weak, instead
of a strong one, it is best to take that in also; to be returned to the stand as
soon as the robbers will allow it. If a second attack is made, put them in
again, or if practicable, remove them a mile or two out of their knowledge
of country; they would then lose no time from labor. Where but few stocks
are kept, and not more than one or two stocks are engaged, sprinkle a little
flour on them as they leave, to ascertain which the robbers are; then reverse
the hives, putting the weak one in the place of the strong, and the strong one
in the place of the weak one. The weak stock will generally become the
strongest, and put a stop to their operations; but this method is often
impracticable in a large apiary; because several stocks are usually engaged,

very soon after one commences, and a dozen may be robbing one. Another
method is, when you are sure a stock is being robbed, take a time when
there are as many plunderers inside as you can get, and close the hive at
once, (wire-cloth, or something to admit air, and at the same time confine
the bees, is necessary;) carry in, as before directed, for two or three days,
when they may be set out. The strange bees thus enclosed will join the weak
family, and will be as eager to defend what is now their treasure, as they
were before to carry it off. This principle of forgetting home and uniting
with others, after a lapse of a few days, (writers say, twenty-four hours is
sufficient for them to forget home) can be recommended in this case. It
succeeds about four times in five, when a proper number is enclosed. Weak
stocks are strengthened in this way very easily; and the bees being taken
from a number of hives, are hardly missed. The difficulty is, to know when
there are enough to be about equal, to what belongs to the weak stock; if too
few are enclosed, they are surely destroyed.

COMMON CAUSE OF COMMENCING.

After all, bees being robbed is like being destroyed by worms; a kind of
secondary matter; that is, not one strong stock in a hundred will ever be
attacked and plundered on the first onset. Bees must be first tempted, and
rendered furious by a weak hive; a dish of refuse honey set near them is
sometimes sufficient to set them at work, also where they have been fed and
not had a full supply. After they have once commenced, it takes an
astonishing quantity to satiate their appetite. They seem to be perfectly
intoxicated, and regardless of danger; they venture on to certain destruction!
I have known a few instances where good stocks by this means were
reduced, until they in turn fell a prey to others. I have for several years kept
about one hundred stocks away from home, where I could not see them
much, to prevent robbing. Yet I never lost a stock by this cause. I simply
keep the entrance closed, except a passage for the bees at work during

spring. It is true I have lost a few stocks, when the other bees took the
honey, but they would have been lost any way.

SPRING THE WORST TIME.

As I before remarked in the commencement of this chapter, bees will
plunder and fight at any time through the summer, when honey cannot be
collected; but spring is the only time that such desperate and persevering
efforts are made to obtain it. It is the only time the apiarian can be excused
for having his hives plundered, or letting them stand in a situation for it. We
then often have families reduced in winter and spring, from various causes,
and when protected through this season, generally make good stocks. It is
then we wish them to form steady, industrious habits, and not live by
plunder. Prevention is better than cure; evil propensities should be checked
in the beginning. The bee, like man, when this disposition has been
indulged for a time, it is hard breaking the habit; a severe chastisement is
the only cure; they too go on the principle of much wanting more.

NO NECESSITY TO HAVE THE BEES PLUNDERED IN THE FALL.

The apiarian having his bees plundered in the fall, is not fit to have charge
of them; their efforts are seldom as strong as in spring, (unless there is a
general scarcity,) the weak hives are usually better supplied with bees, and
consequently a less number is exposed; but yet, when there are some very
weak families, these should be taken away as soon as the flowers fail, or
strengthened with bees from another hive. Particulars in fall management.

I have sometimes made my swarms equal, early in spring, by the following
method, and I have also failed. Bees, when wintered together in a room,
will seldom quarrel when first set out. When one stock has an over supply
of bees, and another a very few, the next day or two after being out, I
change the weak one to the stand of the strong one, (as mentioned a page or

two back,) and all bees that have marked the location return to that place.
The failure is, when too many leave the strong stock, making that the weak
one, when nothing is gained. If it could be done when they had been out of
the house just long enough for the proper number to have marked the
location, success would be quite certain. But before an exchange of this
kind is made, it would be well, if possible; to ascertain what is the cause of
a stock being weak; if it is from the loss of a queen, (which is sometimes
the case,) we only make the matter worse by the operation. To ascertain
whether the queen be present, do not depend on the bees carrying in pollen;
as most writers assert they will not, when the queen is gone; because I have
known them do it so many times without, that I can assure the reader again,
it is no test whatever. The test given in chapter III. page 73, is always
certain.

CHAPTER IX.

FEEDING.

SHOULD BE A LAST RESORT.

Feeding bees in spring is sometimes absolutely necessary; but in ordinary
seasons and circumstances, it is somewhat doubtful if it is the surest road to
success, for the apiarian to attempt wintering any stock so poorly supplied
with honey, that he feels satisfied will need feeding in the spring or before. I
will recommend in another place (in fall management) what I consider a
better disposition of such light families. But as some stocks are either
robbed, or from some other cause, consume more honey than we expect, a
little trouble and care may save a loss. Also bees are often fed at this season
to promote early swarming, and filling boxes with surplus honey.

CARE NEEDED.

Considerable care is requisite, and but few know how to manage it properly.
Honey fed to bees, is almost certain to get up quarrels among them.
Sometimes strong stocks scent the honey given to weak ones, and carry it
off as fast as supplied.

APPARENT CONTRADICTION WHEN FEEDING CAUSING
STARVATION.

It is possible that feeding a stock of bees in spring, may cause them to
starve! whereas, if let alone, they might escape. Notwithstanding this looks
like a contradiction, I think it appears reasonable. Whenever the supply of
honey is short, probably not more than one egg in twenty which the queen
deposits, will be matured—their means not allowing the young brood to be
fed. This appears from the fact that several eggs may be found in one cell. I
transferred over twenty stocks in March, 1852—most of the cells occupied
with eggs contained a plurality; two, three, and even four, were found in
one cell; it is evident that all could not be perfected. Also, the fact of these
eggs being at this season on the bottom-board. Now suppose you give such
a stock two or three pounds of honey, and they are encouraged to feed a
large brood, and your supply fails before they are half grown. What are they
to do? destroy the brood and lose all they have fed, or draw on their old
stores for a small quantity to help them in this emergency, and trust to
chance for themselves? The latter alternative will probably be adopted, and
then, without a timely intervention of favorable weather, the bees starve.
The same effect is sometimes produced by the changes of the weather; a
week or two may be very fine and bring out the flowers in abundance—a
sudden change, perhaps frost, may destroy all for a few days. This makes it
necessary to use considerable vigilance, as these turns of cold weather
(when they occur) make it unsafe, till white clover appears; but if the spring
is favorable, there is but little danger, unless they are robbed. If you take the
necessary care about worms, you will know which are light, and which
heavy, unless your hives are suspended; even then, it is a duty to know their
true condition, in this respect. This is another advantage of the simple hive;
merely raising one edge to destroy worms, tells you something about the
honey on hand. To be very exact, the hive should be weighed when ready
for the bees, and the weight marked on it; by weighing at any time after,
tells at once within a few pounds of what honey there is on hand. Some
allowance must be made for the age of the combs, the quantity of brood,
&c. It is wrong to begin to feed without being prepared to continue to do so,
as the supply must be kept up till honey is abundant.

HOW LONG IT WILL DO TO WAIT BEFORE FEEDING.

If it is wished to wait as long as possible, and not lose the bees, a test will
be necessary to decide how long it will do to delay feeding. In this case,
strict attention will be necessary; they will need examination every
morning. If a light tap on the hive is answered b; a brisk, lively buzzing,
they are not suffering yet; but if no answer is returned to your inquiry, it
indicates a want of strength. Extreme destitution destroys all disposition to
repel an attack. Sometimes a part of the bees will be too weak to remain
among the combs, and will be lying on the bottom, and some few outside. If
the weather is cool, they appear to be lifeless; yet they can be revived, and
now must he fed.

DIRECTIONS FOR FEEDING.

Those among the combs may be able to move, though feebly. When this is
the condition of things, invert the hive, gather up all the scattered bees, and
put them in. Get some honey; if candied, heat it till it dissolves; comb
honey is not so good without mashing; if no honey is to be had, brown
sugar may be taken instead; add a little water, and boil it till about the
consistence of honey, and skim it; when cool enough, pour a quantity
among the combs, directly on the bees; cover the bottom of the hive with a
cloth, securing it firmly, and bring to the fire to warm up. In two or three
hours they will be revived, and may be returned to the stand, providing the
honey given is all taken up; on no account let any honey run out around the
bottom. The necessity of a daily visit to the hives is apparent from the fact,
that if left over for one day, in the situation just described, it will be too late
to revive them. At night, if you have a box cover, such as I have
recommended, you may open the holes in the top of the hive; fill a small
baking dish with honey or syrup, and set it on the top; put in some shavings
to keep the bees from drowning, or a float may be used if you choose; it
should be made of some very light wood, very thin, and full of holes or
narrow channels, made with a saw. At the commencement of feeding, a few

drops should be scattered on the top of the hive and trailed to the side of the
dish, to teach them the way; after feeding a few times, they will know the
road. When the weather is warm enough for them to take it during the night,
it is best to feed at evening,—from four to eight ounces daily, is sufficient.
If the family is very small, what honey is left in the morning may attract
other bees; it is then best to take it out, or carry the hive in the house to a
dark room, sufficiently warm, and feed them enough to last several days,
and then return them to the stand; keeping a good lookout that they are not
plundered, and again in a starving condition, until flowers produce honey
sufficient.

WHOLE FAMILIES MAY DESERT THE HIVE.

When you have the means to keep up a supply of food, and time requisite to
make feeding secure, perhaps it would not be advisable to wait till the last
extremity before feeding, as a small family will sometimes entirely desert
the hive, when destitute, if it occurs before they have much brood. In these
cases, they issue precisely as a swarm; after flying a long time, they either
return, or unite with some other stock. If they return, they need attention
immediately. You may be certain there is something wrong, let the desertion
take place when it may; in spring it may be destitution, or mouldy combs; at
other times the presence of worms, diseased brood, &c. By whatever cause
it is produced, ascertain it, and apply the remedy.

OBJECTIONS TO GENERAL FEEDING.

I have known it recommended, and practised by some apiarians, to feed
bees all at once in the open air, in a large trough; but whoever realizes much
profit by this method, will be very fortunate, as every stock in the
neighborhood will soon scent it out, and carry off a good share, and nearly
every stock at home will be in contention, and great numbers killed; the
moment the honey is out, their attention is directed to other stocks. Another

objection to this general feeding is, that some stocks are not necessitated at
all, while others need it; but the strongest stock is pretty sure to get the
most. Now, as I cannot afford to divide with my neighbors in this way of
feeding, and I suppose but few will be found who are willing to do it, I will
give my method, which, when once arranged, is but little trouble.

ARRANGEMENT FOR FEEDING.

I got a tinman to make some dishes, two inches deep, 10×12 inches square,
and perpendicular sides. A board was then got out, fifteen inches wide, and
two feet long; two inches from one end, a hole is cut out the longest way,
just the size of the dish, so that it will set in just even with the upper side of
the board; a good fit should be made, so that no bees can get in around it;
cleats should be nailed on the under side of the board, some over an inch
thick, to prevent crowding the dish out. This is to go directly under the hive,
but it is not ready yet, because if such dish is filled with honey under a hive,
the bees would drown; if a float is put on to keep them out, it will settle to
the bottom when the honey is out, and the bees cannot creep up the sides of
tin very easily. Another thing, there is nothing to prevent the bees from
making their combs to the bottom of this dish, two inches below the bottom
of the hive; these things are to be prevented. Get out two pieces of half-inch
board, ten inches long, one to be two inches wide, the other one and a half
inches. With a coarse or thick saw, cut channels in the side of the strips,
one-fourth inch deep, three-eighths or half an inch apart, crosswise the
whole length. You will then want a number corresponding to the places
sawed, of very thin shingles, or strips, say one-eighth of an inch thick, and
one and three-fourths wide, and nine and a half long; these are to stand
edgewise in the dish; the first two are to hold them in the channels at the
ends. The narrow one needs a block one-half inch square, nailed on each
end; on the edge, a strip of wire cloth is then nailed on, making the whole
width just two inches. This is now put in the dish, wire cloth at the bottom,
two inches from one end; two pins to act as braces will keep it there; the

other wide one is placed against the other end, and pressed down even with
the top of the dish. The thin pieces are now slipped into the channels even
with the top; it is now ready to go under the hive to be fed. Let the two-inch
space project out on the back side of the hive. A narrow board should be
provided, some more than two inches wide, to cover it. Let the hive stand
close on this board; the hole in the side is sufficient for the passage of bees
at work, till very hot weather. Thus you see that the hive covers all but the
space behind, which the board covers, and not a strange bee can get at the
honey, without entering the hole at the side, and passing through among the
bees belonging to the hive, which they will not often do; if the family is
numerous, it makes it as safe as feeding on the top; with this advantage,
there are no bees in the way to interfere while pouring in the food. When
the bees are to be fed, raise the board at the back and pour in the honey; the
wire-cloth in the bottom prevents all bees from entering this space, at the
same time will let the honey pass through directly under the bees, which
will take it up quicker than from any other place that I can put it; they will
work all night even when the weather is quite cool. This board and feeder
can be taken out when done feeding, and put away till wanted again; if left
under through the summer, it affords the worms a place rather too
convenient to spin their cocoons, where they are not easily destroyed.

FEEDING TO INDUCE EARLY SWARMS.

If the object in feeding is to induce early swarms, of course the best stocks
should be chosen for the purpose; but some care is necessary not to give too
much, and fill the combs with honey, that ought to be filled with brood, and
thereby defeat your object; one pound per day is enough, perhaps too much.
The quantity obtained from flowers is a partial guide; when plenty, feed
less; when scarce, more. Begin as soon as you can make them take it up in
spring, and continue in accordance with the weather, till white clover
blossoms, or swarms issue. Another object in feeding bees at this period, is
to have the store combs all filled with inferior honey, so that when clover
appears, (which yields our best honey,) there is no room except in the boxes
to store it, which are now put on, and rapidly filled. When this last object is
alone wished for, it is not much matter how much is given at a time,
providing it is all taken up through the night; it will then take no time in
day-light, when they might work on flowers; also, the bees would have no
trouble in repelling any attempt of others to get at it.

WHAT MAY BE FED.

Inferior honey may be used for this purpose; Southern or West India is
good, and costs but little. Even molasses sugar mixed with it will do; but
they do not relish it so well when fed without the honey. I have usually
taken about equal quantities of each, adding a pint of water to ten pounds of
this mixture, and making it as hot as it will bear without boiling over, and
skimming it.

IS CANDIED HONEY INJURIOUS?

There has an idea been advanced, that candied honey is injurious to bees,
even said to be fatal. I never could discover any thing further, than it was a
perfect waste, while in this state. When boiled, and a little water added, it
appears to be just as good as any. Nearly every stock will have more or less
of it on hand at this season; but as warm weather approaches, and the bees
increase to warm the hive, it seems to get liquified, from this cause alone.
The bees, when compelled to use honey from these cells, thus candied,
waste a large portion; a part is liquid, and the rest is grained like sugar,
which may be seen on the bottom-board, as the bees work it out very often.
Another object in feeding bees, is to give inferior honey, mixed with sugar
and flavored to suit the taste, to the bees, and let them store it in boxes for
market. Now, I have no faith in honey undergoing any chemical change in
the stomach of the bee,14 and cannot recommend this as the honest course.
Neither do I think it would be very profitable, feeding to this extent, under
any circumstances. I have a few times had some boxes nearly finished and
fit for market at the end of the honey season; a little more added would
make them answer. I have then fed a few pounds of good honey, but always
found that several pounds had to be given the bees to get one in the boxes.

CHAPTER X.

DESTRUCTION OF WORMS.

I shall not give a full history of the moth in this chapter, as spring is not the
time they are most destructive. It will be further noticed under the head of
Enemies of Bees. But as this is a duty belonging to spring, a partial history
seems necessary.

As soon as the bees commence their labors, the worms are generally ready
to begin theirs.

SOME IN THE BEST STOCKS.

You will probably find some in your best stocks; but don't be frightened;
this is not the season when they often destroy your stocks, yet they injure
them some.

HOW FOUND.

In the morning, when cool, raise the hive, and you will find them on the
board. You must not suppose that these chaps are bred outside the hive, got
their growth, and are now on their way among the bees, but the reverse.
They are bred in the hive, and most of them are on the way out, and this is
the precise time to arrest them and bring them to justice for their crimes.

A TOOL FOR THEIR DESTRUCTION.

I have used a simple tool, made in a few minutes, and very convenient in
this business. Any one can make it. Get a piece of narrow hoop-iron, (steel
would be better,) three-fourth inch wide, five inches long; taper from one
side three inches from the end to a point; then grind each edge sharp; make
three or four holes through the wide end, to admit small nails through it in
the handle, which should be about two feet long and about half an inch
square. Armed with this weapon, you can proceed. Raise the hive on one
edge, and with the point of your sword you may pick a worm out of the
closest corner, and easily scrape all from under the hive with it. Now, be
sure and dispatch every one; not that the "little victim" will itself,
personally, do much mischief; but through its descendants the mischief is to
be apprehended. Very likely half of all you find will have finished their
course of destruction, among the combs, and have voluntarily left them for
a place to spin their cocoons. They are worried by the bees, if they are
numerous, until satisfied that it is no safe place among them to make a
shroud and remain helpless two or three weeks. Accordingly, when they get
their growth they leave, get on the board on the bottom, become chilled and
helpless in the morning, but again active by the middle of the day. Now, if
they are merely thrown on the earth, a place there will be selected, if no
better is found, for transformation; and a moth perfected ten feet from the
hive is just as capable of depositing five hundred eggs in your hive, as if she
had never left it.

Several generations are matured in the course of one summer: consequently,
one destroyed at this season, may prevent the existence of thousands before
the summer is over.

This is another subject of theoretical reasoning, and imposition, (at least in
my opinion.) I wish the reader to judge for himself; get rid of whims and
prejudice, and look at the subject candidly and fair; and if there is no
corroborative testimony comes up to confirm any position that I assume, I
shall not complain if my assertions fare no better than some others. Only
defer judgment till you know for yourself.

Bees have ever received my especial regard and attention; and my
enthusiasm may blind my judgment. I may be prejudiced, but will not be
wilfully wrong. I have found so many theories utterly false, when carried
out in practice, that I can depend on no one's hypothesis, however plausible,
without facts in practice to support it. No one should be fully credited
without a test. To return to our subject.

MISTAKEN CONCLUSIONS.

It is supposed by many, when these worms are found on the board, they get
there by accident, having dropped from the combs above. They seem not to
understand that the worm generally travels on safe principles; that is, he
attaches a thread to whatever he travels over. To be satisfied on this point, I
have many times carefully detached his foot-hold, when on the side of the
hive or other place, where he would fall a few inches, and always found
him with a thread fast at the place he left, to enable him to regain his
position if he chose. Is it not probable, then, that whenever he leaves the
combs for the bottom-board, he can readily ascend again? No doubt he
often does, to be driven down again by the bees. Now, what I wish to get at
by all this preamble, is simply this: that all our trouble and worrying to
prevent the worms from again ascending to the combs—by wire hooks,
wire pins, screws, nails, turned pins, clam-shells, blocks of wood, &c., is
perfect nonsense, when half or more of them would not harm the bees any
more if they did, and might as well go there as any where else. Besides,
these useless "fixins" are very often a positive injury to the bees.

OBJECTIONS TO SUSPENDED BOTTOM-BOARD.

Suppose, if you please, that the worm has no thread attached above, and
your board is far enough from the bottom of the hive to prevent his reaching
it. Of course, he can't get up; but how are your bees to do any better? The
worm can reach as high as they can. The bee can fly up, you think; so it

will, sometimes; but will try a dozen times first to get up without, and when
it does, it is a very bad position to start from, being a smooth board. In hot
weather it does better. Did you ever watch by a hive thus raised, in April or
May, towards night, when it was a little cool, and see the industrious little
insects arrive with a load as heavy as they could possibly carry, all chilly,
and nearly out of breath, scarcely able to reach home, and there witness
their vain attempts to get among their fellows above them? If you never
witnessed this, I wish you would take some pains for it, and when you find
them giving up in despair, when too chilly to fly, and perishing after many
fruitless attempts for life, I think, if you possess sympathy, benevolence, or
even selfishness, you will be induced to do as I did—discard at once wire
hooks and all else from under the hive in the spring, and give the bees,
when they do get home with a load, under such circumstances, what they
richly deserve, and that is, protection.

ADVANTAGE OF THE HIVE CLOSE TO THE BOARD.

An inch hole in the side of the hive, a few inches from the bottom, as a
passage for the bees, is needed, as I shall recommend letting the hive close
to the board; it is essential on account of robbing; also, it is necessary to
confine as much as possible the animal heat, in most hives, during the
season the bees are engaged in rearing young brood; and warmth is
necessary to hatch the eggs, and develop the larvæ; we all know that when
the hive is close, less heat will pass off than if raised an inch.

OBJECTION ANSWERED.

You object to this, and tell me, "the worms will get between the bottom of
the hive and the board." Well, I think they will, and what then? Why I
expect if you intend to succeed, that you will get them out, and crush their
heads; if you cannot give as much attention as this, better not keep them, or
let some one have the care of them that will. I am as willing to find a worm

under the edge of the hive, and dispatch it, as to have it creep into some
place out of sight, and change to the moth. I once trimmed off the bottom of
my hives to a thin edge, so they did not have this place for their cocoons,
but now prefer to have them square. All profit is seldom obtained with
anything. If you plant a field with corn, you do not expect that the whole
work for the crop is finished. Neither should you expect when you set up a
stock of bees, that a full yield will be realized without something more. If
you are remunerated by keeping the weeds from your corn, be assured it is
equally profitable to weed out your bees.

INSUFFICIENCY OF INCLINED BOTTOM-BOARD.

Now do not be deceived in this matter, and through indolence be induced to
get those hives with descending bottom-boards, to throw out the worms as
they fall, and hope by that means to get rid of the trouble; (I have already, in
another chapter, expressed doubts of this). But we will now suppose such
descending bottom-boards capable of throwing every worm that touches it
"heels over head" to the ground; what have we gained? His neck is not
broken, nor any other bone of his body! As if nothing extraordinary had
happened, he quietly gathers himself up, and looks about for snug quarters;
he cares not a fig for the hive now; he gormandized on the combs until
satisfied, before he left them, and is glad to get away from the bees any
how. A place large enough for a cocoon is easily found, and when he again
becomes desirous of visiting the hives, it is not to satisfy his own wants, but
to accommodate his progeny; he is then furnished with wings ample to
carry him to any height that you choose to put your bees.

A MOTH CAN GO WHERE BEES CAN.

A hive that is proof against the moth, is yet to be constructed. We frequently
hear of them, but when they come to be tested, somehow these worms get
where the bees are. When your hives become so full of bees, that they cover

the board in a cool morning, the worms will be seldom found there, except
under the edge of the hive.

TRAP TO CATCH WORMS.

You may now raise it, but you may still catch the worms by laying under
the bees a narrow shingle, a stick of elder split in two lengthwise, and the
pith scraped out, or anything else that will afford them protection from the
bees, and where they may spin their cocoons. These should be removed
every few days, and the worms destroyed, and the trap put back. Do not
neglect it till they change to the moth, and you have nothing but to remove
the empty cocoon.

BOX FOR WREN.

If you would take the trouble to put up a cage or two for the wren to nest in,
he would be a valuable assistant in this department of your labor. He would
be on the lookout when you were away, and many worms, while looking up
a hiding-place in some corner, would be relieved from all further trouble by
being deposited in his crop. The cage for him need not be more than four
inches square; it may be fastened near as possible to the bees; to a post, tree,
or side of some building a few feet high. I have seen the skull of some
animal (horse or ox) used, and is very convenient for them, the cavity for
the brains being used for the nest. A person once told me the wren would
not build in one that he had put up. On examination, the stake to support it
was found driven into the only entrance. I mention this to show how little
some people understand what they do. It is sometimes well enough to know
why a thing is to be done, as to know it must be done. I could tell you to do
a great many things, but then you would like to know why, then how to do
it. Now if this prolixity is unnecessary for you, another may need it. You
must remember I am endeavoring to teach some few to keep bees, who are
not over supplied with ingenuity.

CHAPTER XI.

PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES.

Putting on boxes may be considered a duty intermediate between spring and
summer management. I cannot recommend putting them on as early as the
last of April, or first of May, in ordinary circumstances. It is possible to find
a case that it would be best. But before the hive is full of bees it is generally
useless, very likely a disadvantage, by allowing a portion of animal heat to
escape that is needed in the hive to mature the brood. Also, moisture may
accumulate until the inside moulds, &c. Some experience and judgment is
necessary to know about what time boxes are needed. That boxes are
needed at the proper season, I think I shall not need an argument to
convince any one, in the present day. Bee-keepers have generally discarded
the barbarous practice of killing the bees to obtain the honey. Many of them
have learned that a good swarm will store sufficient honey for winter,
besides several dollars worth as profit in boxes.

ADVANTAGE OF THE PATENT VENDER.

Here is where the patent vender has taken the advantage of our ignorance,
by pretending that no other hive but his ever obtained such quantities, or so
pure in quality.

TIME OF PUTTING ON—RULE.

It is probable a great many readers will need the necessary observation to
tell precisely when the hive is full of honey; it may be full of bees, and not

of honey. And yet the only rule that I can give to be generally applied, is,
when the bees begin to be crowded out, but a day or two before would be
just the right time, that is, when they are obtaining honey—(for it should be
remembered that they do not always get honey when beginning to cluster
out). This guide will do in place of a better one, which close observation
and experience only can give. By observing a glass hive attentively, in those
cells that touch the glass on the edge of the combs, whenever honey is being
deposited here abundantly, it is quite evident that the flowers are yielding it
just then, and other stocks are obtaining it also. Now is the time, if any
cluster out, to put on the boxes. When boxes are made as I have
recommended, that is, the size containing 360 solid inches, it is advisable to
put on only one at first; when this is full either of bees or honey, and yet
bees are crowded outside, the other can be added. This is before swarming;
too much room might retard the swarming a few days, but if crowded
outside, it indicates want of room, and the boxes can make but little
difference. It is better to have one box well filled than two half full, which
might be the case if the bees were not numerous. The object of putting on
boxes before swarming, is to employ a portion of the bees, that otherwise
would remain idly clustering outside two or three weeks, as they often do,
while preparing the young queens for swarming. But when all the bees can
be profitably engaged in the body of the hive, more room is unnecessary.

MAKING HOLES AFTER THE HIVE IS FULL.

Whenever it is required to put boxes on a hive that has no holes through the
top, it need not prevent your getting a few pounds of the purest honey that
may be had, just as well as to have a portion of the bees idle. I always
endeavor to ascertain in what direction the sheets of comb are made, and
then mark off the row of holes on the top, at right angles with them.

ADVANTAGE OF PROPER ARRANGEMENT.

Two inches being nearly the right distance, each one will be so made that a
bee arriving at the top of the hive between any two sheets will be able to
find a passage into the box, without the task of a long search for it; which I
can imagine to be the case when only one hole for a passage is made, or
when the row of holes is parallel with the combs. A hive might contain eight
or ten sheets of comb, and a bee desirous of entering the box might go up
between any two, many times, before it found the passage. It has been urged
that every bee soon learns all passages and places about the hive, and
consequently will know the direct road to the box. This may be true, but
when we recollect that all within the hive is perfect darkness—that this path
must be found by the sense of feeling alone—that this sense must be its
guide in all its future travels—that perhaps a thousand or two young
workers are added every week, and these have to learn by the same means
—it would seem, if we studied our own interest, we would give them all the
facility possible for entering the boxes. What way so easy for them as to
have a passage, when they get to the top, between each comb? That bees do
not know all roads about the hive, can be partially proved by opening the
door of a glass hive. Most of the bees about leaving, instead of going to the
bottom for their exit, where they have departed many times, seem to know
nothing of the way, but vainly try to get out through the glass, whenever
light is admitted.

I am so well convinced of this, that I take some pains to accommodate them
with a passage between each comb; they will then at least lose no time by
mistakes between the wrong combs, crowding and elbowing their way back
through a dense mass of bees which impede every step, until again at the
top perhaps between the same combs, perhaps right, perhaps farther off than
at first; when I suppose they try it again; as boxes are filled sometimes
under just such circumstances.

To assist them as much as possible, when new hives are used for swarms, I
wait till the hive is nearly filled before making the holes to ascertain the
direction of the combs. We all know it is uncertain which way the combs

will be built, when the swarm is put in, unless guide-combs are used.15
When holes are made before the bees are put in, guide-combs as directed
for boxes should be put in; (of course they should cross at right angles the
row of holes).

DIRECTIONS FOR BORING HOLES IN FULL STOCKS.

To make holes in the top after the combs are made,—Mark out the top as
directed for making hives and boxes. A centre bit or an auger bit with a lip
or barb is best, as that cuts down a little faster than the chip is taken out,
leaving it smooth; when nearly through, a pointed knife can cut the
remainder of the chip loose, and it can be taken out; if it is between the
combs, it is well; if directly over the centre of one, it is a little better; with
the knife take out a piece as large as a walnut; even if honey is in it, no
harm will be done. The bees will then have a passage through from either
side of the comb.

After you have opened one hole, very likely the bees will want to see what
is going on over head, and walk out to reconnoitre. To prevent their
interference, use some tobacco-smoke, and send them down out of your
way, till your hole is finished. Now lay over this a small stone or block of
wood, and make the others in the same way. When all are done, blow in
some smoke as you uncover them, and put on your box. This process is not
half so formidable as it appears; I have in this way bored hundreds. You will
remember my hives are not as high as many others keep them, they are in
about as convenient a position as I can get them. This method saves me the
trouble of sticking the guide-combs in my hives; also, the necessity of
covering or stopping the holes. Dr. Bevan and some others have made a
cross-bar hive, instead of nailing on a top in the usual way; a half-inch
board of the right length is cut into strips, some over an inch wide, and half
an inch apart, across the top. It is plain that in such a hive a bee can pass
into the box whenever it arrives at the top, without difficulty. I will here
repeat the objection to allowing too much room, to pass into the boxes, that

you may see the disadvantages of the extremes of too little and too much
room. In these cross-bar hives, the animal heat rises into the box from the
main hive, making it as warm as below; the queen goes up with the bees,
and finding it warm and convenient for breeding, deposits her eggs; and
young brood as well as honey is found there. When we think it full, it is
then indispensable to return it, if taken off, till they hatch, (otherwise they
spoil it by moulding), which makes the combs dark, tough, &c. Another
objection to such open tops is, that open bottom boxes must be used, which
are not half as neat for market.

TO BE TAKEN OFF WHEN FILLED.

This advantage attends glass boxes: while being filled, the progress can be
watched till finished, when they should be taken off to preserve the purity
of the combs. Every day the bees are allowed to run over them, renders
them darker. Consequently, when our bees are a long time filling a box, it is
not as purely white as when filled expeditiously.

TIME TAKEN TO FILL A BOX.

Two weeks is the shortest time I ever had any filled and finished. This, of
course, depends on the yield of honey, and size of the swarm; three or four
weeks are usually taken for the purpose. I have before said that the first
yield of honey nearly fails in this section, usually about the 20th of July;
there are some variations, later or earlier, according to the season. In other
places it may be much later.

WHEN TO TAKE OFF BOXES PART FULL.

It can be ascertained by occasionally raising the cover to your glass boxes.
When no more is being added, all boxes that are worth the trouble should be
taken off; if left longer the comb gets darker, and such cells of honey as are

not sealed over, (and sometimes the majority are such,) the bees generally
remove down into the hive.

TOBACCO SMOKE PREFERRED TO SLIDES.

When boxes are to be taken off, if a slide of tin, zinc, &c., is used to close
the holes, some of the bees are apt to be crushed, others will find
themselves minus a head, leg, or abdomen, and all of them be irritable for
several days. A little tobacco smoke is preferable, as it keeps all quiet. Just
raise the box to be taken off sufficient to puff under it some smoke, and the
bees will leave the vicinity of the holes in an instant; the box can then be
removed, and another put on if necessary, without exciting their anger in the
least.

MANNER OF DISPOSING OF THE BEES IN THE BOXES.

Arouse the bees by striking the box lightly four or five times. If all the cells
are finished, and honey is still obtained, turn the box bottom up, near the
hive from which it was taken, so that the bees can enter it without flying; by
this means you can save several young bees, that have never left the hive
and marked the location, and a few others too weak to fly, but will follow
the others into the hive; (such are lost when we are obliged to carry them at
a distance.) Boxes can be taken off either in the morning or evening; if in
the morning, it may stand several hours when the sun is not too hot, but on
no account let it stand in the sun in the middle of the day, as the combs will
melt. The bees will all leave, sometimes in an hour; at others they will not
be out in three. They may be taken off at evening and stand till morning, in
fair weather; if not too cool, they are generally all out; but here is some risk
of the moth finding it and depositing her eggs; perhaps one in fifty may be
thus found.

BEES DISPOSED TO CARRY AWAY HONEY.

When boxes are taken off at the end of the honey season, a different method
of getting rid of the bees must be adopted, or we lose our honey. Unless the
combs are all finished, we lose some then any way, as most of the bees fill
themselves before leaving; they carry it home and return for more
immediately, and take it all, if not prevented. It has been recommended to
take it to some dark room with a small opening to let the bees out; in the
course of the day they will sometimes all leave; but this method I have
found unsafe, as they sometimes find the way back. When a large number
of boxes are to be managed, a more expeditious mode is, to have a large
box with close joints, or an empty hogshead, or a few barrels with one head
out, set in some convenient place; put the boxes in, one above another, but
not in a manner to stop the holes; over the top throw a sheet of one
thickness, a thin one is best, as it will let through more light. The bees will
leave the boxes, creep to the top, and get on the sheet; take this off and turn
it over a few times; in this way all may be got rid of without the possibility
of carrying off much honey. All that know the way will return to the hive,
but a few young ones are lost.

NOT DISPOSED TO STING.

They seldom offer to sting during this part of the operation, even when the
box is taken off without tobacco smoke, and carried away from the hive;
after a little time, the bees finding themselves away from home, lose all
animosity.

As honey becomes scarce, less brood is reared; a great many cells that they
occupied are soon empty; also, several cells that contained honey have been
drained, and used to mature the portion of brood just started at the time of
the failure. We can now understand, or think we do, why our best stocks
that are very heavy, that but a few days before were crowded for room and
storing in boxes, are now eager for honey to store in the hive; as there is
abundant room for several pounds. They will quickly remove to the hive the
contents of any box left exposed; or even risk their lives by entering a

neighboring hive for it; after being allowed to make a beginning, under such
circumstances.

RULE.

During a yield of honey, take off boxes as fast as they are filled, and put on
empty ones. At the end of the season take all off. Not one stock in a hundred
will starve that has worked in boxes, that is, when the hive is the proper
size, and full before adding the boxes, unless robbed or other casualty.

CHAPTER XII.

SECURING HONEY FROM THE MOTH.

TWO THINGS TO BE PREVENTED.

When the boxes are free from the bees, two things are to be prevented, if we
wish to save our honey till cold weather. One is to keep out the worms, the
other to prevent souring. The last may be new to many, but some few of us
have had it caused by dampness in warm weather. The combs become
covered with moisture, a portion of the honey becomes thin like water, and
instead of the saccharine qualities we have the acid. Remedy: keep perfectly
dry and cool, if you can, but dry at any rate.

APT TO BE DECEIVED ABOUT THE WORMS.

But the worms, you can surely keep them out, you think, since you can seal
up the boxes perfectly close, preventing the moth or even the smallest ant
from entering! Yes, you may do this effectually, but the worms will often be
there somehow, unless in a very low temperature, such as a very cool cellar,
or in house, and then you have dampness to guard against. I have a little
experience in this matter that spoils your theory entirely. I have taken off
glass jars, and watched them till the bees were all out, and was certain the
moth did not come near them, then immediately sealed them up; absolutely
preventing access afterwards, (I could do this with a jar more effectually
than a box which is made of several pieces,) I then felt quite sure that I was
ahead, and should have no trouble with the worms, as had often been the
case before. I was sadly mistaken.

THEIR PROGRESS DESCRIBED.

In a few days, I could see at first a little white dust, like flour, on the side of
the combs, and on the bottom of the jar. As the worms grew larger, this dust
was coarser. By looking closely at the combs, a small white thread-like line
was first perceptible, enlarging as the worm progressed.

When combs are filled with honey, they go only on the surface, eating
nothing but the sealing of the cells; seldom penetrating to the centre,
without an empty cell to give the chance. Disgusting as they seem to be,
they dislike being daubed with honey. Wax, and not honey, is their food.

The reader would like to know how these worms came in the jars, when, to
all appearance, it was a physical impossibility. I would like to tell
positively, but cannot. But I will guess, if you will allow it. I will first
premise, that I do not suppose they are generated spontaneously! Their
being found there, then, would indicate some agent or means not readily
perceived.

A SOLUTION OFFERED.

The hypothesis that I offer is original and new, and therefore open for
criticism; if there is a better way to account for the mystery, I would be glad
to know it.

From the first of June till late in the fall, the moth may be found around our
hives, active at night, but still in the day. The only object probably is to find
a suitable place to deposit its eggs, that the young may have food; if no
proper and convenient place is found, why, I suppose it will take up with
such as it can find; their eggs must be deposited somewhere, it may be in
the cracks in the hive, in the dust at the bottom, or outside, as near the
entrance as they dare approach. The bees running over them may get one or
more of these eggs attached to their feet or bodies, and carry it among the
combs, where it may be left to hatch. It is not at all probable that the moth

ever passed through the hive among the bees, to deposit her eggs in the jars
before mentioned. Had these jars been left on the hive, not a worm would
have ever defaced a comb; because, when the bees are numerous, each
worm as soon as it commences its work of destruction will be removed, that
is, when it works on the surface, as in the boxes of honey—in breeding
combs, they get in the centre and are more difficult to remove. By taking off
these jars and removing the bees, it gave all the eggs that happened to be
there a fair chance. Many writers finding the combs undisturbed when left
on the hive till cold weather, recommend that as the only safe way,
preferring to have the combs a little darker, than the risk of being destroyed
by the worms. But I object to dark combs, and leaving the boxes will
effectually prevent empty ones taking their places, which are necessary to
get all the profits. I will offer a few more remarks in favor of my theory, and
then give my remedy for the worms. I have found in all hives where the
bees have been removed in warm weather, say between the middle of June
and September, (and it has been a great many,) moth eggs enough among
the combs to destroy them in a very short time, unless kept in a very cool
place; this result has been uniform. Any person doubting this, may remove
the bees from a hive that is full of combs in July or August; and close it to
prevent the possibility of a moth entering, set it away in a temperature
ranging from sixty to ninety, and if there are not worms enough to satisfy
him that this is correct, he will have better success than I ever did. Yet, no
such result will follow, when the bees are left among the combs, unless the
swarm be very small; then the injury done will be in proportion. A strong
stock may have as many moth eggs among the combs as a weak one, yet
one will be scarcely injured, while the other may be nearly or quite
destroyed.

Now, if this theory be correct, and the bees do actually carry these eggs
among the combs, is there not a great deal of lost labor in trying to
construct a moth-proof hive? The moth, or rather the worms, are ever
present to devour the combs, whenever the bees have left them in this
season.

METHOD OF KILLING WORMS IN BOXES.

Now, whether you are satisfied or not with the foregoing, we will proceed
with the remedy. Perhaps you may find one box in ten that will have no
worms about it, others may contain from one to twenty when they have
been off a week or more. All the eggs should have a chance to hatch, which
in cool weather may be three weeks. They should be watched, that no
worms get large enough to injure the combs much, before they are
destroyed. Get a close barrel or box that will exclude the air as much as
possible; in this put the boxes, with the holes or bottom open. In one corner
leave a place for a cup or dish of some kind, to hold some sulphur matches
while burning. (They are made by dipping paper or rags in melted sulphur.)
When all is ready, ignite the matches, and cover close for several hours. A
little care is required to have it just right: if too little is used, the worms are
not killed; if too much, it gives the combs a green color. A little experience
will soon enable you to judge. If the worms are not killed on the first trial,
another dose must be administered. Much less sulphur will adhere to paper
or rags, if it is very hot, when dipped, than when just above the temperature
necessary to melt it; this should be considered, as well as the number of
boxes to be smoked, size of the vessel used in smoking them, &c.

Whether this gas from burning sulphur will destroy the eggs of the moth
before the worm appears, I have not tested sufficiently to decide; but I do
know that it is an effectual quietus for the larvæ!

FREEZING DESTROYS THEM.

Boxes taken off at the end of warm weather, and exposed in a freezing
situation through the winter, appear to have all the worms as well as eggs
for them destroyed by the cold; consequently, all boxes so exposed, may be
kept any length of time; the only care being necessary, to shut out the moth
effectually. But don't forget to look out for all combs from which the bees
have been removed in warm weather. I prefer taking off all boxes at the end

of the first yield of honey, even when I expect to put them on again for
buckwheat honey. The bees at this season collect a great abundance of
propolis, which they spread over the inside of the boxes as well as hive; in
some instances it is spread on the glass so thick as to prevent the quality of
honey being seen. There is no necessity for boxes on a hive at any season
when there is no yield of honey to fill them. Sometimes even in a yield of
buckwheat honey, a stock may contain too few bees to fill boxes, but just a
few may go into them and put on the propolis; this should not be allowed,
as it makes it look bad when used another year. At this season, (August)
some old stocks may be full of combs, and but few bees, but swarms when
they have got the hive full in time, are very sure to have bees enough to go
into the boxes to work. I have known them to do so in three weeks after
being hived.

OBJECTION TO USING BOXES BEFORE THE HIVE IS FULL.

Some put on boxes at the time of hiving the bees. In such cases the box is
often filled first, and nearly as often will contain brood. I consider it no
advantage, and often a damage to do so; as I want the hive full any way—
and then if they have time let them into boxes, although it may be
buckwheat, instead of clover honey that we get.

CHAPTER XIII.

SWARMING.

TIME TO EXPECT THEM.

The season for regular swarms in this section, I have known to commence
the 15th of May, and in some seasons the 1st of July. The end is about the
15th of the latter month, with some exceptions. I have had one as late as the
21st; also a few buckwheat swarms between the 12th and 25th of August.

The subject now before us is one of thrilling interest. To the apiarian the
prospect of an increase of stocks is sufficient to create some interest, even
when the phenomenon of swarming would fail to awaken it. But to the
naturalist this season has charms that the indifferent beholder can never
realize.

ALL BEE-KEEPERS SHOULD UNDERSTAND IT AS IT IS.

As a guide in many cases, it is important that the practical apiarian should
understand this matter as it is, and not as said to be by many authors. I shall
be under the necessity of differing from nearly all in many points.

MEANS OF UNDERSTANDING IT.

This is another case of "when doctors disagree, who shall decide?" You,
reader, are just the person. There is no need of a doctor at all in this matter. I
will endeavor to give a test for most of my assertions. To make this subject

as plain as possible in this place, I may repeat some things said before. The
facts related have come under my own observation. I have probably taken
more pains than most bee-keepers, to understand this matter to the bottom
from the beginning, (I mean the bottom of the cells). But few apiarians have
made the number of examinations that I have to get at the modus operandi
of swarming. Perhaps I ought not to expect full credit for veracity, when I
assure the reader that I have inverted more than one hundred stocks to get a
peep at the royal cells, some of them near a dozen times in one summer. I
have inverted them frequently for the purpose of obtaining cells. But
generally to see when such cells are being made, when they contain eggs,
when these eggs are sufficiently matured for swarming, or abandoned and
destroyed, &c.

By these signs I predict with certainty (almost) when to expect swarms, and
when to cease looking for them.

INVERTING A STOCK RATHER FORMIDABLE AT FIRST.

To a person that has never inverted a hive full of bees, even to overflowing,
or never has seen it done, it appears like a great undertaking, as well as the
probability of ruining the stock! But after the first trial, the magnitude of the
performance is greatly diminished, and will grow less with every repetition
of the feat, until there is not the least dread attending it. Without tobacco
smoke I hardly think it practicable, but with it, there is not the least
difficulty. It would be very unsatisfactory to turn over a hive and nothing to
drive the bees away from the very places on the combs that you wish
particularly to inspect. The smoke is just the thing to do it! As for the bad
effects of such overturning and smoking, I never discovered any.

REQUISITES BEFORE PREPARATION OF QUEEN'S CELLS.

I have found the process for all regular swarms something like this: before
they commence, two or three things are requisite. The combs must be
crowded with bees; they must contain a numerous brood advancing from
the egg to maturity; the bees must be obtaining honey either by being fed or
from flowers. Being crowded with bees in a scarce time of honey is
insufficient to bring out the swarm, neither is an abundance sufficient,
without the bees and the brood. The period that all these requisites happen
together, and remain long enough, will vary with different stocks, and many
times do not happen at all through the season, with some.

These causes then appear to produce a few queen-cells, generally begun
before the hive is filled, (sometimes when only half full, but usually remain
as rudiments till the next year, when the foregoing conditions of the stock
may require their use).

STATE OF QUEEN'S CELL WHEN USED.

They are about half finished, when they receive the eggs; as these eggs
hatch into larvæ, others are begun, and receive eggs at different periods for
several days later. The number of such cells seem to be governed by the
prosperity of the bees: when the family is numerous, and the yield of honey
abundant, they may amount to twenty, at other times perhaps not more than
two or three; although several such cells may remain empty. I have already
said that a failure, (or even a partial one), in the yield of honey at any time
from the depositing of royal eggs till the sealing of the cells, (which is about
ten days), would be likely to bring about their destruction. Even after being
sealed, I have found a few instances where they were destroyed.

STATE WHEN SWARMS ISSUE.

But when there is nothing precarious about the honey, the sealing of these
cells is the time to expect the first swarm, which will generally issue the

first fair day after one or more are finished. I never missed a prediction for a
swarm 48 hours, when I have judged from these signs, in a prosperous
season. When there is a partial failure of honey, the swarm sometimes will
wait several days after finishing them.

CLUSTERING OUTSIDE NOT ALWAYS TO BE DEPENDED UPON.

The clustering out of the bees I find but a poor criterion to judge from,
further than full hives do swarm—many such do not.

EXAMINATIONS—THE RESULT.

I will detail a few circumstances, that have led to these conclusions. Some
years ago the honey began to fail, when only about one third of my good
stocks had cast swarms; and all at once, the issues began to "be few and far
between." I had previously examined, and found they had gone into
preparations pretty extensively; by having not only constructed cells, but
occupied them with royal eggs and larvæ. Now I examined again, and
found five out of six had destroyed them, (at the same time the bees
clustered out extensively). This put an end to all hopes of swarms here.
Some few had finished their cells, and these, I had some hopes, would send
out the swarms; but the dry weather caused some misgivings. After waiting
three or four days and none coming, I found these sealed cells destroyed
also, and had no more swarms that season. Subsequent observations have
fully confirmed these things. One season some of the hives commenced
preparations at two different periods, and then abandoned them without
swarming at all, through the summer. The first time it was the last of May,
the next in July.

REMARKS.

The failure of honey was the cause, without any doubt. And who shall say,
these bees were not wise in their conduct? What prudent man would
emigrate with a family, if the prospect of a famine was plainly indicated,
when, by remaining at home, there was enough, at least for the present?
Who can help but admire this wise and beautiful arrangement? The combs
must contain brood; the bees must find honey during the rearing of the
queens. If a swarm were to issue the moment of obtaining honey, the
consequence might be fatal, as there would not be a numerous brood to
hatch out, and replenish the old stock with bees sufficient to keep out the
worms. Were they to issue at any time, as soon as the bees had increased
enough in numbers to spare a swarm, without regard to the yield of honey,
they might starve.

CONFLICTING THEORIES.

I find many theories conflicting with these views, which appear to call for
some remarks. It is generally supposed that a young queen must be matured
to issue with the swarms, and the old one with the old bees are permanent
residents of the old hive.

BOTH OLD AND YOUNG LEAVE WITH SWARMS.

It is probable that no rule governs the issue of workers. Old and young
come out promiscuously. That old bees come out may be known sometimes,
by so many leaving, that not a quarter as many will be left, as commenced
work in the spring. That young bees leave, any one may be satisfied on
seeing a swarm issue; a great many too young and weak to fly will drop
down in front of the hive, having come out now for the first time, and
perhaps some of them had not been out of the cell an hour; these very
young bees are known by the color.

CAUSE OF THE QUEEN'S INABILITY TO FLY SUGGESTED.

The old queen often gets down in the same way; but I would assign another
cause for her inability to fly; that is, I would suggest it to be her burden of
eggs.

EVIDENCE OF THE OLD QUEEN'S LEAVING.

That the old queen does leave with the first swarm is indicated by several
things: one is, eggs may often be found on the board the next morning;
another, when the first swarm has left, and before any of these royal cells
hatch, the bees may be driven out and no queen will be found, or you may
drive out the bees at the end of three weeks, and the brood of workers will
be about all hatched, the drone brood not quite as near. The combs may also
contain some eggs, and perhaps some very young larvæ, that have been
deposited by the young queen, which begins to lay usually sixteen or
eighteen days after the first swarm. This shows a cessation of laying eggs
for about two weeks. First swarms will have eggs in the cells as soon as
they are made to hold them, which is often within 24 hours after being
hived; occasionally a new piece of comb will fall down, and, if the cells are
deep enough, they are almost certain to contain eggs. I could add other
proof, but the attentive observer will discover it himself.

MR. WEEKS' THEORY NOT SATISFACTORY.

Mr. J. M. Weeks, in his work on bees, says, "Two causes and two only can
be assigned why bees ever swarm: the first, the crowded state of the hive;
the second, to avoid the battle of the queens." The first cause producing first
swarms, the other second, third, &c. Mr. Colton's patent hive, it is said, can
be made to swarm "at any time within two days," merely for want of room.
By removing the six boxes attached to it, the bees are compelled to crowd
into the main body of the hive, and swarm out in consequence. Now, if
merely crowding the hive with bees is the only cause of first swarms, how
is it that half or more of mine refused to swarm, when a great many, for

want of room, were crowded outside for weeks, and great numbers
maturing every day to crowd them still more? To me the reason is plain,
that some of the before-mentioned requisites were wanting. Mr. Weeks
further says, when the first swarm has left, "not a single queen, in any stage
of minority, is left in the old hive; the bees, destitute of a queen, set about
constructing several royal cells, take larvæ or eggs and put in them, and
feed with royal jelly, and in a few days have a queen." Although I had not
had much experience at the time of getting his work, I had some doubts,
because I found that all hives that became full and began to run over, did
not swarm, and some others swarmed before being quite full; it seemed as if
something like a preparation beforehand was requisite. I knew of no means,
for a long time, that would decide positively; when it occurred to me, if I
examined the old stock immediately after the first swarm had left, I should
find some preparations if there were any; a thing so simple and easy that I
felt somewhat mortified not to have thought of it before. The first stock I
looked at revealed the secret. I examined it the evening of the day that a
swarm had left; I was gratified by finding two finished cells on the lower
edges of the combs; other cells were in different stages of progression, from
those containing an egg to the full developed larva. Several more hives
showed the same result. I now got bold enough to examine some previous
to swarming, as I have already explained.

MR. MINER NOT CORRECT.

Mr. T. B. Miner, in his work, has allowed the preparation of queen cells
previous to swarming, but he has put off the time of the swarm issuing eight
or nine days too long. That is, he has the young queen matured so that she
commences piping first, which does not occur more than one time in fifty.

Now I think it more than probable that many readers will have some doubts
in regard to my statements about this swarming matter. Yet I think I can
give directions sufficiently particular that they may remove them

themselves. They should bear in mind that they have no right to be positive
on any subject without an investigation.

PARTICULAR DIRECTIONS FOR TESTING THE MATTER.

I will now give more minute directions for an examination. Full hives
require a little more care than those containing fewer bees. Don't let the
crowded state of the hive, even if some are outside, deter you from
gratifying a laudable curiosity, (such hives are most likely to possess these
cells.) Let the satisfaction of ascertaining a few facts for yourselves
stimulate you to this exertion, the risk is not much; what I have done you
may do. This is better than to rely on any man's "ipse dixit." I do it without
any protection whatever for face or hands; but, if you have too much fear of
stings, a veil to protect the face may be put on, but do without it, if you can
find the courage, as you will want a good view. The best time is, when most
of the bees are out at work near the middle of the day; but then the bees
from the other hives are sometimes cross, and interfere. On that account I
prefer morning or evening, although there are more bees to be smoked out
of the way. If you are accustomed to smoking tobacco, you will find a pipe
just the thing for making a smoke here; if not, vide a description of an
apparatus in chap. 18th, p. 281. When you are ready to proceed, some
smoke must be blown under the hive before you touch it; then raise the
front side a few inches, and blow in some more; now carefully lift the hive
from the stand, avoiding any jar, as this would arouse their anger; turn it
bottom upwards; also, be careful all the time not to breathe among them.
More smoke will now make them crowd among the combs out of your way
while you examine. It is very common for the bees to set up a buzzing, and
rush up the sides of the hive, but a little smoke will drive them back; get
them out of the way as much as possible, and look on the edges of the
combs for the queens' cells, where most of them are. If the hive is fully
supplied with honey, they will be near the bottom, if not, farther up among
the combs; in some hives they cannot be seen even where they exist. Yet

they may be found in four out of five, by a thorough search. I have found
nine within two inches of the bottom, some on the extreme ends of the
comb. I would here give a caution about turning over hives with very new
combs, before they are attached to the sides of the hive, as they are apt to
bend over.

EMPTY HIVES TO BE READY.

We will now suppose that some of your stocks are ready to cast their
swarms: we will also presume that your empty hives for the reception of
swarms are ready before this period; to prepare a hive after the swarm has
issued is bad management; negligence here argues negligence elsewhere; it
is one of the premonitions of "bad luck."

BOTTOM-BOARDS FOR HIVING.

You will want also a number of bottom-boards, expressly for hiving; get a
board a little larger than the bottom of the hive, nail strips across the ends
on the under side to prevent warping; in the middle cut out a space five or
six inches square, and cover with wire cloth. These are for your large
swarms in very hot weather, to be used for four or five days. They are much
safer than to raise the hive an inch or more for ventilation. They are also
essential for many other occasions. I would not do without them, even if the
expense was ten times what it is.

DESCRIPTION OF SWARM ISSUING.

When the day is fair and not too much wind, first swarms generally issue
from ten o'clock till three; if you are on the lookout, the first outside
indication of a swarm, will be an unusual number of bees around the
entrance, from one to sixty minutes before they start. The utmost confusion
seems to prevail, bees running about in every direction; the entrance

apparently closed with the mass of bees, (perhaps one exception in twenty,)
presently a column from the interior forces a passage to the open air; they
come rushing out by hundreds, all vibrating their wings as they march out;
and when a few inches from the entrance, rise in the air; some run up the
side of the hive, others to the edge of the bottom-board. If you have seen the
old queen come rushing out the first one, and the rest following her, as we
are often told she does, you have seen what I never did in a first swarm!
Second and third swarms conduct themselves quite differently. I have seen
the old queen issue a few times, but not till half the swarm was out.

The bees when first rising from the hive, describe circles of but few feet,
but as they recede, they spread over an area of several rods. Their
movement are much slower than usual, in a few minutes thousands may be
seen revolving in every possible direction! A swarm may be seen and heard,
at a distance, where fifty hives, ordinarily at work, would not be noticed!
When about out of the hive, or soon after, some branch of a tree or bush is
usually selected on which to cluster. In less than half a minute after the spot
is indicated, even when the bees are spread over an acre, they are gathered
in the immediate vicinity, and all cluster in a body from five to ten minutes
after leaving the hive. They should now be hived immediately, as they show
impatience if left long, especially in the sun; also, if another stock should
send out a swarm while they were hanging there, they would be quite sure
to mix together.

MANNER OF HIVING CAN BE VARIED.

It makes but little difference what way they are put in the hive, providing
they are all made to go in. Proceed as is most convenient; an old table or
bench is very good to keep them out of the grass if there should happen to
be any; if there is not much in the way, lay your bottom-board on the
ground, make it level, set your hive on it, and raise one edge an inch or
more to give the bees a chance to enter.

USUAL METHOD.

Cut off the branch with the bees, if it can be done as well as not, and shake
it in front of the hive, a portion will discover it, and will at once commence
a vibration of their wings; this, I suppose, is a call for the others. A
knowledge of a new home being found seems to be communicated in this
way, as it is kept up until all are in. A great many are apt to stop about the
entrance, thereby nearly or quite closing it, and preventing others going in,
when they will gather on the outside. You can expedite the matter with a
stick or quill, by gently pushing them away; and another portion will enter.
When gentle means will not induce them to go in, in a reasonable time, and
they appear obstinate, a little water sprinkled on them will facilitate
operations greatly, when nothing else will. (Be careful and not over-do the
matter, by using too much water, they can be so wet as not to move at all.)

When they cluster on a branch that you do not wish to cut off, place your
bottom-board as near as convenient; on it lay two sticks about an inch in
diameter, of the same length: try the hive, and see that all is right; then turn
it bottom up, directly under the main part of the cluster; if you have an
assistant, let him jar the branch sufficiently to detach the bees; most of them
will fall directly into the hive. If no assistant is at hand it is unnecessary to
wait, (I have done it a hundred times without help); with the bottom of the
hive strike the under side of the branch hard enough to dislodge them, then
turn it on the board; the sticks will prevent the bottom crushing many bees.

WHEN OUT OF REACH.

I have gone up a ladder fifteen feet, got the bees in the hive in this way, and
backed down without difficulty. After putting the hive in its place,
sometimes a part will go back; in that case, a small branch full of leaves
should be held directly under and close to them, and as many jarred on it as
possible. Hold this still, and shake the other to prevent their clustering
there; you will soon have them all collected, ready to bring down, and put

by the hive. A handle basket or large tin pan may be taken up the ladder
instead of the hive, when they can be readily emptied before it. But very
few will fly out in coming down. If you succeed in getting nearly all the
bees in the first effort, and but few are left, merely shaking the branch will
be sufficient to prevent their holding fast, and will turn their attention to
those below, where those which have already found a hive will be doing
their best to call them. When the hive is first turned over, most of the bees
fall on the board and rush out, but as soon as it is realized that a home is
found, a buzzing commences inside; this quickly communicates the fact to
those outside, which immediately turn about, facing the hive and hum in
concert, while marching in.

Another plan may be adopted, even if fifteen feet high; when the branch is
not too large, and there is not too much in the way below it. Have ready two
or three light poles of suitable length; select such as have a branch at the
upper end, large enough to hold a two-bushel basket. This is raised directly
under the swarm; with another pole, the bees are all dislodged, and fall into
the basket, and are quickly let down. Now, if you have got about all, throw
a sheet over for a few moments, to prevent their escape. They soon become
quiet, and may be hived without many going back to the branch, as they do,
when attempting to hive them immediately.

I often have them begin to cluster near the ground, very conveniently for
hiving. In such a case, I do not wait for all to collect, but as soon as such
place is indicated, I get the board and hive ready. When a quart or so are
gathered, shake them in a hive, and set it up; the swarm will now go to that,
instead of the branch, especially if the latter is shaken a little. Where many
stocks are kept, it is advisable to be as expeditious as possible. A swarm
will thus hive itself much sooner than when it is allowed to cluster.

WHEN THEY CANNOT BE SHAKEN OFF.

Swarms will sometimes get in places where it is impossible to jar them off,
or cut off a branch, such as the trunk of a tree, or a large limb near it. In
which case place the hive near, as first directed; take a large tin dipper, a
vessel most convenient for the purpose, and dip it full of bees; with one
hand turn back the hive; with the other throw the bees into it; some of them
will discover that a home is provided, and set up the call for the rest, (by the
vibration of their wings), and the remainder may be emptied in front of the
hive as you dip them off. I have known a few instances when the first
dipper full all ran out, and joined the others without making the discovery
that they were in a hive, but this is seldom the case. When you get the queen
in, there is no trouble with the remainder, even if there are many left; as
soon as they ascertain that the queen is no longer among them, it may be
known by their uneasy movements, and they will soon leave, and join those
in the hive; but if the queen is yet on the tree, and but a dozen with her, they
will leave the hive and cluster again.

ALL SHOULD BE MADE TO ENTER.

In all cases be sure to get them all to enter; a cluster outside of it may
contain the queen, unconscious of a home so near; and the probable
consequence might be, she would leave for a miserable one in the woods.

SHOULD BE TAKEN TO THE STAND IMMEDIATELY.

When all are in, except a few that will be flying, let the hive down close to
the board; take hold of this and carry it at once to the stand they are to
occupy, and raise the front edge half an inch; let the back rest on the board;
this will give them means to re-ascend, if they chance to drop, which large
swarms often do in hot weather. If the bottom is an inch or more from the
board when the bees fall, there is nothing to prevent their rushing out on
every side—their means of getting up again are bad—if the queen comes
out with the rush, there are some chances for their leaving.

PROTECTION FROM THE SUN NECESSARY.

Another thing is very important; swarms should be protected from the sun
for several days, in hot weather, from nine o'clock till three or four; and
then if the heat is very oppressive, and the bees cluster outside, sprinkle
them with water and drive them in; and by wetting the hive occasionally, it
will carry off a large portion of the heat, and make it much more
comfortable.

CLUSTERING BUSHES.

If there are no large trees in the vicinity of your apiary, all the better, as
there will then be no danger of your swarms lighting on them; but all bee-
keepers are not so fortunate, myself being one of the number. In such a
place it is necessary to provide something for them to cluster on; get some
bushes six or eight feet high (hemlock is preferable); cut off the ends of the
branches, except a few near the top: secure the whole with strings to
prevent swaying in ordinary winds; make a hole in the earth deep enough to
hold them, and large enough to be lifted out easily. The bees will be likely
to cluster on some of these; they can then be raised out, and the bees hived
without difficulty. A bunch of dry mullein tops tied together on the end of a
pole, makes a very good place for clustering; it so nearly resembles a
swarm that the bees themselves appear to be sometimes deceived. I have
frequently known them leave a branch where they had begun to cluster, and
settle on this when held near.

The motives for immediately removing the swarm to the stand are, that they
are generally more convenient to watch in case they are disposed to leave;
also many bees can be saved. All that leave the hive, mark the location the
same as in spring; several hundreds will probably leave the first day; a few
may leave several times; when removed at night, such will return to the
stand of the previous day, and generally are lost; whereas, if they are carried
at once to a permanent stand, this loss is avoided.

Those that are left flying at the time, return to the old stock, which those
that return from the swarm the next day will not always do. The time for
moving them now is no more than at another. It is unnecessary to object,
and say, that "it will take too long to wait for the bees to get in;" this will
not do. I shall insist on your getting all the bees to enter before leaving any
way. I consider this an essential feature in the management. I will not say
that my directions will always prevent their going to the woods, but this I
do say, that out of the hundreds that I have hived, not one has ever left. It is
possible proper management has had no influence in my success, yet
something like an opinion of this kind has been indulged for a long time.

HOW SWARMS ARE GENERALLY MANAGED THAT LEAVE FOR
THE WOODS.

Some of my neighboring bee-keepers lose a quarter or half of their swarms
by flight, and how do they manage? When the word is given out, "Bees
swarming," a tin-horn, tin-pan, bells, or anything to make a "horrible din,"
is seized upon in the hurry of the moment, and as much noise made as
possible, to make them cluster; (which they naturally would do without the
music, at least all mine have. This probably gave rise to the opinion of one
old lady, who knew "drumming on a pan did good, for she had tried it.")
Very often a hive is to be constructed, or an old one unfit to use any way,
needs some sticks across, or something to take time. When the hive is
obtained, it must be washed with something nice to make the bees like it; a
little honey must be daubed on the inside; sugar and water, molasses and
water, salt and water, or salt and water rubbed on with hickory leaves, "is
the best thing in the world;" several other things are just as good, and some
are better. Even whisky, that bane of man, has been offered them as a bribe
to stay, and sometimes they are persuaded and go to work.

NOTHING BUT BEES NEEDED IN A HIVE.

Now I cannot say positively that these things do harm, yet I am quite sure
they do no good, as nothing but bees is needed in a hive. Is it reasonable to
suppose they are fond of all the "knick-knacks" given them? I have never
used any, and could not possibly have done better. I am careful to have the
hive sweet and clean, and not too smooth inside; an old hive that has been
used before is scalded and scraped.

But to the manner they get the bees in, after the hive is ready. A table is set
out, and a cloth spread on it; sticks are put on to raise the hive an inch or
more: if they succeed in getting the swarm even on the outside of the hive it
is left; if they go in, it is well; if they go off, why hope for "better luck next
time." The hive is left unsheltered in the hot sun and when there is no wind,
the heat is soon insupportable, or at least very oppressive; the bees hang in
loose strings, instead of a compact body, as when kept cool; they are very
apt to fall, and when they do, will rush out from every side: if the queen
chances to drop with them, they may "step out." Two thirds of all the bees
that go to the woods are managed in this, or a similar manner, and may it
not be said, they are fairly driven off?

SELDOM GO OFF WITHOUT CLUSTERING.

Perhaps one swarm in three hundred will depart for the woods without first
clustering. I have had three times that number, not one of which has ever
left me thus. Yet I have evidence not to be disputed that some will do it.
Three instances have occurred near me that satisfied me of the fact. Two
were lost, the other was followed to a tree, half a mile off; I assisted in
cutting the tree, and hiving them. The cavity where they entered was very
small, and contained old comb, made by a swarm a year or two previous,
which had probably starved, as there was too little room for storing
sufficient honey for winter. This swarm, when hived and carried home,
remained perfectly contented.

DO SWARMS CHOOSE A LOCATION BEFORE SWARMING?

The inquiry is often made, Do all swarms have a place looked out before
leaving the parent stock? The answer to this must ever be guess-work. I
could offer some circumstances indicating the affirmative very strongly, and
as much for the negative; and will let it pass at that. Yet I think if bees are
properly cared for, that ninety-nine swarms in a hundred will prefer a good
clean hive to a rotten tree in the woods.

MEANS OF ARRESTING A SWARM.

I have had three swarms that were exceptions to general rules, giving me
some trouble by swarming out after being hived; the third and fourth time
they left, I threw water among them, causing quite a shower; when my pail-
full was out, I used earth; they went but a short distance, and clustered in
the usual way. Now were these bees intending to leave, and had their
designs frustrated by the water and earth? I am not quite as sure as the old
lady, who knew that "drumming on a tin-pan did good," but I am inclined to
think it had some effect. I have heard of several instances where swarms
were apparently stopped, by having earth thrown among them, while
passing over a field where men were at work. We know they dislike being
wet, as we see them hastening home on the approach of a shower; or we can
at any time drive them in the hive by sprinkling them with water. Throwing
water in the swarm is a kind of imitation shower, and earth is something
like it. Whether useful or not, these swarms leaving the hive was rather
suspicious, and I should try it again under similar circumstances.

SOME COMPULSION.

After getting them in the hive for the fourth time, I resolved not to be
baffled or have much more such trouble, and perhaps go to the woods at
last, thereby setting a bad example. I put under the hive the wire-cloth

bottom-board, opened two or three holes on the top, and covered these also
with wire-cloth, (this was to let the air circulate); a quantity of honey and
water was given them and they were then carried to the cellar, and kept
prisoners four days, except half an hour before sunset; when too late to
leave for a journey, I set them out to provide a few necessaries, and then
returned them to the cellar. In four days, when honey enough is given them,
a good swarm will half fill an ordinary hive with combs. Some of the first
eggs deposited will be about hatching into larvæ, all of which would seem
like too much to leave. I now set them out, and gave them liberty; shading
the hive, &c., as before directed. They all proved faithful and industrious,
prospering like others. If their design was for a distant location, they put a
good face on the matter in the end.

HOW FAR WILL THEY GO IN SEARCH OF A HOME?

How far they will travel in search of a home, is also uncertain. I have heard
of their going seven miles, but could not learn how the fact was proved. I
have no experience of my own in this matter, but will relate a circumstance
that happened near me a few years since. A neighbor was ploughing, when a
swarm passed over him; being near the earth, he "pelted them heartily" with
the loose dirt he had ploughed up, which seemed to bring them up, or rather
down, as they clustered on a very low bush; they were hived, and gave no
further trouble. A man living some three miles from this neighbor, on that
day hived a swarm about eleven o'clock, and left them to warm up in the
sun as described a page or two back; about three o'clock their stock of
patience was probably exhausted, when they resolved to seek a better
shelter. They put off in a great hurry, not even waiting to thank their owner
for the spread on his table, and the sweet-scented "yarbs" and good things
with which he had rubbed their hive. They gave him no notice whatever of
their intention to "quit," until they were moving! With all their goods ready
packed, they were soon under way, accompanied by their owner with
music; but whether they marched with martial precision, keeping time, is

uncertain. In this case the bees took the lead; the man with his tin-pan music
kept the rear, and was soon at a respectful distance. They were either not in
a mood, just then, to be charmed by melodious sounds, or their business
was too urgent to allow them to stop and listen! Their means of locomotion
being superior to his, he gave up in despair, out of breath, after following
about a mile. Another person, about the same time in the day, saw a swarm
moving in the same direction of the first; he also followed them till
compelled to yield to their greater travelling facilities. A third discovered
their flight and attempted a race, but like the others soon came out behind.
The before-mentioned neighbor saw them, and thought of the fresh earth
that he had ploughed up, which he threw among them till they stopped.
How much farther they would have gone, if any, would be guessing. That it
was the same swarm that started three miles away, appears almost certain;
the direction was the same as seen by all, until they were stopped; the time
in the day also exactly corresponded.

We will now return to the issuing of the swarms. There will be some
emergencies to provide for, and some exceptions to notice.

TWO OR MORE SWARMS LIABLE TO UNITE.

If we expect to keep many stocks, the chances are that two or more may
issue at one time; and when they do, they nearly always cluster together (I
once knew an instance where only three stocks were kept; they all swarmed
and clustered together). It is plain that the greater the number of stocks, the
more such chances are multiplied.

DISADVANTAGE.

One first swarm, if of the usual size, will contain bees enough for profit, yet
two such will work together without quarrelling, and will store about one-
third more than either would alone; that is, if each single swarm would get

50 lbs., the two together would not get over 70 lbs., perhaps less. Here,
then, is a loss of 30 lbs., besides one of the swarms is about lost for another
year; because such double swarms are not generally any better the next
spring as a stock, and often not as good as a single one. You will therefore
see the advantage of keeping the first swarms separate.

CAN OFTEN BE PREVENTED.

"Prevention is better than cure." We can, if we keep a good lookout, often
prevent more than one issuing at a time. This depends on our knowledge of
indications, in a great measure. I have said that before starting to fly off,
they were about the entrance in great numbers; there may be one exception
in twenty, where the first indications will be a column of bees rushing from
the hive. To take this matter a little farther from the surface, we will take a
peep at the interior; that is, if our hives contain glass boxes, such as have
been recommended. It is an advantage to know which are about to cast their
swarms, as long beforehand as possible.

INDICATIONS OF SWARMING INSIDE THE HIVE.

These glass boxes are usually filled with bees; before leaving they may be
seen in commotion, long before any unusual stir is visible outside,
sometimes for near an hour. The same may be noticed in a glass hive. Now,
in good weather, when we have reason to expect many swarms, it is our
duty to watch closely, especially when the weather has been unfavorable for
several days previous. A number of stocks may have finished their queen-
cells during the bad weather, and be ready to come out within the first hour
of sunshine that occurs in the middle of the day. We must expect some such
occurrences, and in large apiaries there is apt to be trouble, unless you take
some precautions. If you have taken no care (which but few will), by
previous examinations, to know which are ready, as soon as one has started
or commenced flying, look at all the rest that are in condition to swarm; or,

what is much better, look before any have started. Even if nothing unusual
is seen about the entrance, raise the cover to the boxes. If the bees in them
are all quiet as usual, no swarm need be immediately apprehended, and you
will probably have time to hive one or two first.

PREVENTING A SWARM ISSUING FOR A TIME.

But should you discover the bees running to and fro in great commotion,
although there may be but few about the entrance, you should lose no time
in sprinkling those outside with water from a watering-pot, or other means.
They will immediately enter the hive to avoid the supposed shower. In half
an hour they will be ready to start again, in which time the others may be
secured. I have had, in one apiary, twelve hives all ready in one day, and did
actually swarm; several of which would have started at once, had they not
been kept back with water, allowing only one at a time, thus keeping them
separate. They had been kept back by the clouds, which broke away about
noon.

TO PREVENT SWARMS UNITING WITH THOSE ALREADY
HIVED.

When any of the subsequent swarms were disposed to unite with those
already hived, a sheet was thrown over to keep them out. I had four so
covered at once. An assistant, in such cases, is very important; one can
watch symptoms and keep them back, while the other hives the swarms.

Occasionally, when ready for a swarm and waiting for one to start, two may
do so at once. Whenever a part have got on the wing, I never succeeded in
stopping the issue: consequently I have found it useless trying to drive or
coax them back in such cases. To succeed, the means must be used in
season, before any of the swarm leaves.

WHEN TWO HAVE UNITED, THE METHOD OF SEPARATING.

Two or more swarms will cluster together, and not quarrel, if put in one
hive; I have already told you the disadvantages. Unless business is very
urgent, your time cannot be better employed than in dividing them. First, it
is necessary to provide a good stock of patience, as it may be a short job, or
it may be a long one. Get two empty hives, and divide the bees as nearly
equal as possible. It is generally the best way to spread a sheet on the
ground, and shake the bees in the centre, and set the hives each side of the
mass, their edges raised to allow the bees to enter; if too many are disposed
to enter one hive, set it farther off. If they cluster in a situation where they
cannot be got to the earth in a body, they must be dipped off as before
directed, but, in this case, putting a dipper full in each hive alternately, until
all are in. They should be made to hurry some in going in; keep the entrance
clear, and stir them up often; or sprinkle a very little water on them, as they
should not be allowed to stop their humming until all are in. We have one
chance in two of getting a queen in each. The two hives should now be
placed twenty feet apart; if there is a queen in each, the bees in both will
remain quiet, and the work is done; but if not, the bees in the one destitute
will soon manifest it by running about in all directions, and, when the queen
cannot be found, will leave for the other hive, where there are probably two,
a few going at a time. Now there are two or three methods of separating
these queens; one is, to empty the bees out and proceed as before, a kind of
chance game, that may succeed at the next trial, and may have to be
repeated. Another way is, that, as soon as it is ascertained which is without
a queen, before many bees leave, spread down a sheet; set this hive on it,
and tie the corners over the top to secure the bees for the present, turn the
hive on its side for the present to give them air; or it may be let down on a
wire cloth bottom-board and the hole in the side stopped, and this would be
less likely to smother the bees, if it could be secured to the bottom, and
have the hive lie on its side; when this division is secured, get another hive,
and jar out those with the queens; let them enter as before, and then set
them apart, &c., watching the result; if the queens are not yet separate, it

will be known by the same appearances. The process must be continued till
separate, or the number with the queens may be easily looked over, and one
of them found; indeed, a sharp lookout should be kept up from the
beginning, and the queens caught, if possible.

NO DANGER OF A STING BY THE QUEEN.

No danger of her sting need be apprehended, as she will not demean herself
to use that for a common foe; she must have a royal antagonist. When
successful in obtaining one, it is sufficient; put her in a tumbler or some
safe place; then put your bees in two hives, place them as directed, and you
will soon learn where your queen is needed. After all is done, the two hives
should not be nearer than twenty feet, at least the first day; perhaps forty
would be still better. When two swarms are mixed, and then separated, it is
evident that a portion of each swarm must be in both hives. A queen in each
must of course be a stranger to at least a part of the bees; these might, if
their own mother was too near, discover her, and leave the stranger for an
old acquaintance, and, in the act of going, call or attract the whole with
them, including the queen. I have known a few instances of the kind.

SOME PRECAUTIONS IN HIVING TWO SWARMS TOGETHER.

If you are disposed to separate them, but are afraid to work among them to
this extent in the middle of the day, or if there is danger of more issuing, to
mix with them, and add to your perplexity, of which you already have
enough, then you can hive them as a single swarm; but, instead of a bottom-
board, invert an empty hive and set the one with the swarm on this, and
insert a wedge between them, for ventilation. As many bees are liable to
drop down, in this case the lower hive will catch them, and there is less
danger of leaving. Let them remain till near sunset, when another course
may be taken to find a queen, though by that time one is sometimes killed;

yet it is well to know the fact. Take them to some place out of the sun, as a
less number will fly during the operation.

HOW TO FIND QUEEN, WHEN TWO STRANGERS ARE
TOGETHER.

First, look into the lower hive for a dead queen, and, if none is found there,
look thoroughly, as far as possible, for a little compact cluster of bees, the
size of a hen's egg, that may be rolled about without separating. Secure this
cluster in a tumbler; it is quite sure one of the queens is a prisoner in the
middle;16 should two be seen, get both. Then divide the bees, and give the
one destitute, a queen; or, if you have two, one to each, as the case may be.
It would be well first to see if the queen was alive, by removing the bees
from about her. But should you find nothing of the kind, spread a sheet on
the ground, shake the bees on one end of it, and set the hive on the other;
they will immediately begin a march for the hive. You may now see the
cluster, and may not; but they will spread out in marching, and give a good
chance to see her majesty, when a tumbler is the most convenient thing to
set over her. No matter if a few bees are shut up with her, there is no risk,
then, in your eagerness to get the queen, of taking hold of a worker or two.
A piece of window-glass can be slipped under, and you have her safe, and
by this time you will know what is to be done next. This operation could not
well be done in the middle of the day, or in the sun, as too many bees would
be flying, and greatly interfere.

Should you fail in finding a queen, and cannot succeed in making a division
in consequence, or should you resolve, from want of time, patience or
energy, to let them remain together in the beginning, it is unnecessary to get
a hive any larger than usual for two swarms; they will certainly find room
by cold weather: if more than two, they should be divided by all means; it
will be a disadvantage for another year. For the first four days, when two
large swarms are together, it is necessary to keep an inverted hive under

them, but much longer it would not do, as they might extend their combs
into the lower hive.

BOXES FOR DOUBLE SWARMS IMMEDIATELY.

It should then be taken out, and boxes immediately put on, which should be
changed for empty ones, as fast as they are filled. Yet, this extra honey is
not quite as much advantage as increase of stocks; when that is an object, I
will recommend another disposition.

RETURNING A PART TO THE OLD STOCK.

Separate one-third or more of the two swarms, being sure there is no queen
with this part, (by the test given of setting them at a distance) and then
return them to one of the old stocks; they will immediately enter without
contention, and issue again in about nine days, or as soon as a young queen
is matured to go with them. There may be an exception to this, of one in
twenty. I would have recommended this course in all cases of the kind, but
there will be a loss of time for the bees in the old stock; because they are apt
to be rather idle, even when they might labor in the boxes; and here there is
a loss of some eight or ten days. The collections of a good swarm may be
estimated at least one pound a day, (often two or three.) A swarm that just
fills the hive, would make at least ten pounds box-honey, if it could have
been located ten days earlier. Still another method may be adopted when
you have a very small swarm, one that is not likely to fill the hive, and has
not been hived more than two or three days. A third of your two swarms
may be put in with that; taking care, as before, not to let your only queen go
with them.

METHOD OF UNITING.

The manner of doing it is very simple; get them in a hive as before directed,
and jar them out in front of the one you wish them to enter, or invert it,
setting the other over, and let them run up.

WHEN CARE IS NECESSARY.

Except on the day of swarming, care is necessary not to introduce a small
number with a large swarm; they are liable to be destroyed. The danger is
much greater than to put together about an equal number, or a large number
put in with a few. The day that swarms issue, they will generally mix
peaceably, but in proportion as time intervenes between the issues, so will
be the liability to quarrel. Yet, I have united two families of about equal
numbers in the fall and spring, and, with a few exceptions, have had no
difficulty.

SWARM-CATCHER.

There is another method of keeping swarms separate, contrived and used by
a Mr. Loucks, of Herkimer Co., N.Y. He calls it a swarm-catcher; he has a
half dozen of them, and says he would not do without for one season, for
fifty dollars, as he has a large apiary. I made one as near as I could from
seeing his, without taking the exact measure. I got out four light posts four
and half feet long, one inch square; then twelve pieces of one-quarter inch
stuff, four inches wide; the four for the top twelve inches long, for the
bottom two were fourteen inches long, and two were twenty. These were
thoroughly nailed on the ends of the posts, making it into an upright frame,
the other four pieces were nailed around the middle, which made the frame
firmer. I made a frame for the top, of four pieces, each an inch and a half in
width, and half inch thick, halved at the ends and nailed together, and
fastened by hinges to one side of the top, and a catch to hold it shut. The
whole was now covered with very thin cloth to admit the light, but not so
open as to let the bees through, (Mr. Loucks used cloth made for cheese-

strainers.) I now had a covered frame four and half feet high, 12 inches
square at the top, at the bottom 14 by 20, with a door or lid at the top, to let
out the bees. On each side of the bottom I tacked a piece of common
muslin, near a yard in length. When a swarm is ready to issue, the bottom of
this frame is set up before the hive, one edge of the bottom rests on the
bottom-board, the other against the side of the hive; the top sets off from the
hive at an angle of about 45 degrees, under which a brace is set to hold it.
The muslin at the bottom is to wrap around the hive at the side to prevent
the escape of the bees. The swarm rushes into this without any hesitation.

When done coming out, the muslin at the bottom is drawn over it, and the
frame is set in an upright position, and allowed to stand a few minutes for
the bees to get quiet in the top. It is now to be laid on its side, the door
opened, and the bees hived. In the few trials that I have given it, I
succeeded without difficulty. But I would remark, that stocks from which
swarms are caught in this way, must not be raised at the back side, as a part
of the swarm would issue there, and not get into the net. Mr. Loucks had his
hive directly on the board; and he told me he kept them so through the
season: the only places of entrance was a sprout out of the bottom of the
front side, about three inches wide by half inch deep, and a hole in the side
a few inches up. You will thus perceive that stocks from which swarms are
hived in this way must be prepared for it previously. Also, it will be no use
to such bee-keepers as depend on seeing their swarms in the air. It will be
beneficial only in large apiaries, where several swarms are liable to issue at
once; the swarming indications well understood, and the apiarian on the
lookout.

SWARMS SOMETIMES RETURN.

Occasionally a swarm will issue, and in a few minutes return to the old
stock. Mr. Miner gives a cause for this, very ingenious, and romantic, but
unfortunately there are but few facts to sustain this hypothesis, (at least I
have not discovered them.) There are other causes that appear to me more

reasonable; the most common is the inability of the old queen to fly, on
account of her burden of eggs, old age, or something else. I have
sometimes, after the swarm had returned found the queen near the stock,
and put her back, and the next day she would come out again, and fly
without difficulty, (perhaps she had discharged some of her eggs.)

Their returning is more frequent in windy weather, or when the sun is
partially obscured by clouds. About three-fourths of them will not re-issue
until a young queen is matured, eight or ten days afterwards; and a few, not
at all. But when the queen returns with the swarm, they usually come out
again the next day, or day after, and some not till the third or fourth. I have
known two instances where they issued again the same day.

REPETITION PREVENTED.

Sometimes a swarm will issue and return three or four days in succession,
but this I generally remedy, as it is often owing to some inability of the
queen, and she may be frequently found while the swarm is leaving outside
the hive, unable to fly. In such cases it is only necessary to have a tumbler
ready, and watch for her; and as soon as she appears, secure her, get the
empty hive for the swarm, a sheet, and put down a bottom-board a few feet
from the stock. The swarm is sure to come back; the first bees that alight on
the hive will set up the call; as soon as this is perceived, lose no time in
setting the old stock on the board, and throwing the sheet over it to keep out
the bees. Put the new one in its place on the stand, and the queen in it; in a
few minutes the swarm will be in the new hive, when it can be removed,
and the old one replaced. This I have done many times. But should the
swarm begin to cluster in a convenient place, when you have so caught the
queen, by being expeditious she may be put with the swarm, before they
have missed her and may be hived in the usual way.

LIABILITY TO ENTER WRONG STOCKS.

In all cases, whether you set a new hive in place of the old one or not,
whenever a swarm returns, if other stocks stand close on each side, they are
quite sure to receive a portion of the bees—probably a few hundreds; these
are certain to be massacred. To prevent which, it is necessary to throw
sheets over them until the swarm has gathered on their own hive. This is
another reason for plenty of room between stocks. Should no queen be
discovered during their issue, or return, she should be sought for in the
vicinity of the hive, and put back if found, and the swarm will be likely to
issue several days earlier, than to wait for a young queen.

When the old queen is actually lost, and the bees have returned to wait for a
young one, it is often ready to leave one or two days short of the time
required for second swarms. Whether a greater number of bees in the old
stock creating more animal heat, matures the chrysalis in less time than a
stock thinned by casting a swarm, or some other cause, I cannot say. I
mention it because I have known it to occur frequently, but not invariably. A
swarm flying, unaccompanied by a queen, is scattered more than usual.

FIRST ISSUES GENERALLY CHOOSE FAIR WEATHER.

First swarms are commonly more particular as to weather than after
swarms. They have several days from which to choose, after these royal
cells are ready, and before the queens are matured; and they usually take a
fair one. But here again are exceptions. I once had two first swarms issue in
a wind that kept every branch of tree and bush in agitation to such a degree
that it was impossible to find any such place to cluster. I expected their
return to the old hive; but here were more exceptions. After repeating a
fruitless attempt at the branches, they gave it up, and came down amongst
the grass on "terra firma." This occurred after several days of rainy weather.
The next day being pleasant, twelve issued; almost proving that the wind
the preceding day kept back a part. I also knew one to issue in a shower,
that beat many of them to the ground before they could cluster. In this case
the shower was sudden, the sun shone almost up to the time it began to rain.

About this time the swarm started when it seemed they were unwilling to
turn about.

AFTER SWARMS.

After swarms are second and third issues (or all after the first) from a stock;
and quite a different affair from the first, as also are some first swarms,
when the old queen has been lost, being led out by young queens.

THEIR SIZE.

Second swarms are usually half as large as the first, the third half as large as
the second, the fourth still less; with some variations. I give general
features, noticing only the exceptions that occur most frequently; others
sometimes happen, but so seldom that mentioning them is deemed
unnecessary.

TIME AFTER THE FIRST.

Whenever the first swarm in a prosperous season was not kept back by foul
weather, the first of the young queens in the old stock is ready to emerge in
about eight days. We will suppose the first swarm issued on Sunday; a week
from the next Tuesday will be usually as soon as the second one need be
expected.

PIPING OF THE QUEEN.

On the Monday evening previous, or on Tuesday morning, by putting your
ear close to the hive, and listening attentively five minutes, you will hear a
distinct piping noise, like the word peep, peep, uttered several times in
succession, and then an interval of silence; two or more may be often heard
at the same time; that of one will be shrill and fine, of another hoarse, short

and quick. This piping is easily heard by any one not actually deaf, and not
the least danger of its being taken for any humming; in fact, it is not to be
mistaken for anything else but piping, even when you hear it for the first
time. These notes can probably never be heard except when the hive
contains a plurality of queens.

MAY ALWAYS BE HEARD BEFORE AND AFTER SWARM.

I never failed to hear it, previous to a second swarm, or any after the first,
whenever I listened; and whenever I have listened and not heard it at the
proper time, I never knew a second swarm to issue!

TIME OF CONTINUANCE VARIES.

The time of commencing will be later than this rule in some stocks, if the
weather is cool, or not many bees left; it may be ten or twelve days. I once
found it fourteen before I heard it. Also the swarm may not issue in two or
three days after you hear it. The longer the swarm delays, the louder will be
the piping; I have heard it distinctly twenty feet, by listening attentively
when I knew one was thus engaged; but at first it is rather faint. By putting
your ear against the hive it may be heard even in the middle of the day, or at
any time before issuing. The length of time it may be heard beforehand
seems to be governed again by the yield of honey; when abundant it is
common for them to issue the next day; but when somewhat scarce, they
will be much longer—very often three or four days. In these cases third
swarms seldom occur.

TIME BETWEEN SECOND AND THIRD ISSUES.

Piping for third swarms (when they issue) may usually be heard the evening
after the second has left, though one day commonly intervenes between
their issues.

Here my experience is at variance with many writers, who give several days
between the second and third. I do not recollect an instance of more than
three days between, but many in less, several the next, and one the same
day of the second! I had an instance of a swarm losing its queen (the old
one) on its first sally, and returned to wait for the young ones; when they
were ready, an uncommon number of bees were present; three swarms
issued in three days! On the fourth, another came out and returned; the fifth
day it left; making four regular swarms in five days. On the eighth, the fifth
swarm left! Although I never had five swarms from a stock before, yet I
expected this, from the fact of hearing the piping on the next evening after
the fourth one had left. The piping had continued in this hive from the
evening previous to the first swarm till the last one had left.

NOT ALWAYS TO BE DEPENDED UPON.

One stock in fifteen may commence piping, yet send out no swarm. The
bees will change their minds about coming out, and kill their queens, or
allow the eldest one of them to destroy the others, or some other way, as
they do not always swarm in such circumstances. But when the piping
continues over twenty-four hours, I never knew but one failure! I have
known a few (two or three) to commence this piping, while I supposed the
old queen was yet present, and had not left the hive, on account of bad
weather, but a swarm issued soon after. Also, three instances where I
supposed the old queen lost, from some other cause than leading out a
swarm, and the stock reared some young ones to supply her place. It
occurred in or near the swarming season, and one or two issues was the
consequence. One case was three weeks in advance of the season, and the
swarm was about half the usual size. When a swarm has been out, and
returned at the last of the swarming season, it is much more probable to re-
issue, than if it depended on an old queen for a leader, that had not been out.
Such will sometimes be a week or ten days later than others. Once I had the
first swarm kept back by wet weather, and the second came out on the fifth

day after; several other instances on the seventh and eighth; and one as late
as the sixteenth, after the first.

A RULE FOR THE TIME OF THESE ISSUES.

This may be put down as a rule, that all after swarms must be out by the
eighteenth day from the first. I never found an exception, unless the
following may be considered so: When a swarm left the middle of May, and
another the first of July, seven weeks after, but two cases of this kind have
come up, and these I consider rather in the light of first swarms, as they
leave under the same circumstances, leaving the combs in the old stock
filled with brood, queen-cells finished, &c. A stock may cast swarms in
June, and a buckwheat swarm in August, on the same principle.

WHEN IT IS USELESS TO EXPECT MORE SWARMS.

Therefore, bee-keepers having but few stocks, will find it unnecessary to
watch their bees when the last of the first swarms came out sixteen or
eighteen days before. Much trouble may be thus saved by understanding
this matter. During my early days in beekeeping, I wished for the greatest
possible increase of stocks. I had some that had cast the first swarm, and
soon after clustered out again. I vainly watched them for weeks and months,
expecting another swarm. But had I understood the modus operandi, as the
reader may now understand it, I should have been through with all my
anxiety, as well as watching, in a fortnight. As it was, it lasted two months. I
found no one to give me any light on this subject, or even tell me when the
swarming season was over, and I came very near watching all summer!

PLURALITY OF QUEENS DESTROYED.

When the bees, queens, or all together, decide that no more swarms are to
issue, the plurality of queens is destroyed, and but one is left. It is probable

that the oldest and strongest queen dispatches the others, generally while in
the cells.

I once had some artificial queens reared, as an experiment, from common
eggs, on the top of a hive, in a small glass box, where there was room for
but one comb, which allowed me to see all particulars.

THE MANNER.

After the first queen was matured, and had left her cell, I caught her within
six hours, taking advantage of her younger sisters, which were yet sealed
up, and of course could offer no resistance. She first made an opening that
would allow her to reach the abdomen of her competitor (probably this is
the most vulnerable). As soon as this was sufficiently large to admit her
body, she thrust it in, inflicting the fatal sting. This was then left for another,
that soon shared the same fate. If quick and spiteful movements are any
indications of hatred, it was manifested here very plainly. The bees enlarged
the orifice and dragged out the now dead queens.

Now, if I should say that all queens were dispatched in this way, merely
because I witnessed it in this case, it would be carrying out the principle I
am endeavoring to avoid: that is, judging all cases from one or two solitary
facts. As it is, it is somewhat confirmatory of what some others have said. I
will suppose, then, until further evidence contradicts it, that the first perfect
queen leaving her cell, makes it her business to destroy all rivals in their
cradle, as soon as it is decided that no more swarms shall issue. By keeping
grass, weeds, &c., away from about the stock, these dead queens, as they
are brought out, may be frequently found. Such as are removed during the
night may be often found on the floor-board in the morning. I have found a
dozen by one stock. Should the stock send out but one swarm, they may be
found about the time, or a little before you would listen for the piping. But
should after swarms come out, they will, or may be found the next morning
after it is decided that no more are to issue. It is very seldom that all the

queens reared are needed. They make it a rule, as far as they have control,
to go on safe principles, by having a little more than just enough. When
several such bodies are thrown out, and no piping is heard, no further
swarming need be expected. But should you hear the piping a day or two
after finding a dead queen, you may yet look for the swarm.

THEORY DOUBTED.

It is stated that when the bees decide an after swarm shall issue, the first
queen matured is not allowed to leave her cell, but kept a prisoner there,
and fed until wanted to go forth with the swarm. This may be true in some
cases (though not satisfactorily proved), but I am quite sure it is not in all.

When she is confined to her cell, how does she ascertain the presence of
others? By leaving the cell, this knowledge is easily obtained. Huber says
she does, and is "enraged at the existence of others, and endeavors to
destroy them while yet in the cell, which the workers will not allow; this is
so irritating to her majesty that she utters this peculiar sound." Also second
and third swarms may contain several queens, frequently two, three, and
four; even six at one time come out. If these had to bite their way out, after
the workers had decided it was time to start (for it must be they decide it
when the queens are shut up), they would hardly be in season.

AFTER SWARMS DIFFERENT IN APPEARANCE FROM THE
FIRST WHEN ABOUT TO ISSUE.

Another thing, when after swarms start, the appearance about the entrance
is altogether different from first ones, unless there is an unusual number of
bees. I have said that for a little time beforehand, that such were in an
apparent tumult, &c. But after swarms seldom give any such notice. One or
more of the young queens may sometimes be seen to run out, and back,
several times in a few minutes, in a perfect frenzy; sometimes fly a short

distance, and return before the swarm will get started (which she could not
do if confined). The workers seem more reluctant about leaving than in first
swarms, when a mother instead of a sister is leader. Even after the swarm is
in motion, she may return and enter the hive a moment. No doubt she finds
it necessary to animate or induce as many as possible to leave with her. A
person watching the issue of a second swarm under these circumstances, for
the first time, and finding the queen leaving first, would very likely guess
all must be alike. Perhaps the next one would be different; the first thing
seen might be the swarm leaving, and no queen discovered at all. But to
return to the imprisonment of the queens. I have one other fact in objection.
I once saw a queen running about in a glass hive, while they were piping for
a second swarm. She was near the glass, appeared agitated, stopping
occasionally to vibrate her wings, which was simultaneous with the piping,
and seemed to make it. The workers appeared to take but little notice of her.
The next day the swarm left. Here was one instance, at least, of her not
being confined till the time of leaving, making an exception, if not a rule.
Let this matter be as it may, I admit it makes but little difference to the
practical apiarian, either way; but to the reader whose interest is the natural
history of the bee, the truth is important.

TIME OF DAY, WEATHER, ETC.

These after swarms are not very particular about the weather; heavy winds,
a few clouds, and sometimes a slight sprinkling of rain, will not always
deter them. Neither are they very precise about the time of day. I have
known them in a warm morning to issue before seven o'clock, and after five
p.m. These things should be understood; because, when after swarms are
expected (of which the piping will give warning), it is necessary to watch
them in weather, and at times when first ones would not venture to leave.

SWARMS NECESSARY TO BE SEEN.

It is essential that you see them, that you may know where they cluster,
otherwise it might be difficult to find them. They are apt to go farther from
the parent stock than others; sometimes fifty rods, and then settle in two
places, perhaps that distance apart, in some high or inconvenient place to
get at. (Let me not be misunderstood: I do not say they all do so, or even the
majority; but I wish to say that a greater portion of these swarms do so than
of the first.) If they cluster in two places, a queen may be in each, and they
will remain, and when you have hived one part you may think you have all.
If one cluster is without a queen, they will join the other if near; but when
distant, will be very likely to return to the old stock soon, unless put
together. I had a swarm light in two places, in exactly opposite directions
from the stock. In one, a good swarm had clustered; in the other, some less
than a pint. The small part had one or more queens, the other none. It was
perceived at once by their movements. Now, if we provide a hive for a
swarm, and get a few to set up the call or buzzing, they will not leave till
that is stopped. There is generally no difficulty to start it. The surest way is
to jar a portion or all directly into the hive. It takes a few minutes to get
composed, and miss the queen. In my case I got them in the hive, and
before they missed the queen, carried them to the small cluster, which I got
in a dipper and emptied in front of the hive; they entered, and all were
peaceable. You will therefore see the necessity of watching such swarms, to
see if there is no separation, if nothing else.

RETURNING AFTER SWARMS TO THE OLD STOCK.

Much has been said about returning all after swarms to the old stock; the
advantages of which will depend on the time of issuing; whether late or
early, the yield of honey, etc. It would be unusual to have many after
swarms without a liberal yield of honey, for the time being; but to tell of its
continuance is the question to be answered. Second, and even third swarms,
if early in the season, and the honey continues plentiful, may be hived, and

these, together with the old stock, will prosper. Here the apiarian needs a
little judgment and experience to guide him.

WHEN THEY SHOULD BE RETURNED.

It is always best, if possible, to have good strong families. When after
swarms are late it is safest to return them, as the old stock will need them to
replenish the hive, and prepare for winter. Also a less number of worms will
infest it, when well provided with bees; and the chances of box honey are
greater.

METHOD OF DOING IT.

But the process of returning such requires some little patience and
perseverance. I have said there may be a dozen young queens in the old
stock. Now suppose one, two, or more leave with the swarm, and you return
the whole together, there is nothing to prevent their leading out the swarm
again the next day. Therefore it is policy to keep the queens back. The least
trouble is to hive in the usual way, and let them stand till the next morning.
It will save you the trouble of looking for more than one, if there should be
more, for all but that are destroyed by that time. There is a chance, also, for
the old stock to decide that no more should issue, and allow all but one to
be slain there. When this is the case, and you find the one with the swarm,
you will have no further trouble by their re-issuing. They should be returned
as soon as the next morning, otherwise they might not agree, even when put
in the old home. To return them, and find a queen easily, get a wide board a
few feet long; let one end rest on the ground, the other near the entrance,
that they may enter the hive without flying; then shake out the swarm on the
lower end of the board; but few will fly, but soon commence running up
towards the hive; the first one that discovers the entrance will set up the call
for the others. If they do not discover it, which is the case sometimes,
scatter some of them near it, and they will soon commence marching up,

when you should look out for, and secure the queen, as they spread and give
a good chance. By applying your ear to the hive, the piping will tell you if
they are to issue again. It is evident, if you follow these directions, that the
swarm cannot issue many times before their stock of royalty will be
exhausted; and when but one queen remains the piping will cease, and no
further trouble will be had. To prevent these after swarms, some writers
recommend turning over the hive and cutting out all the royal cells but one.
This I have found impracticable with a great many stocks. Some of the cells
are too near the top to be seen, consequently this cannot always be
depended upon. As for a rule about returning, it is somewhat difficult to
give one. If I should say, return all such as issue after the 20th of June, the
variation in the season might be two or three weeks, even in the same
latitude; i.e., the course of flowers that had bloomed by that date in one
season might, another year, require two weeks more to bring out. Also, the
20th of June, in latitude of New York City, is as late as the 4th of July in
many places further north. I once had a second swarm on the 11th of July,
that wintered well, having nearly filled the hive. Yet, in some seasons, the
first swarms, of the last of June, have failed to get enough. In sections
where much buckwheat is raised, late swarms do more towards filling their
hives than where there is none.

MORE CARE NEEDED BY AFTER SWARMS WHEN HIVED.

Should it be thought best to hive after swarms, and risk the chances, they
should receive a little extra attention after the first week or two, to destroy
the worms; a little timely care may prevent considerable injury. They are
apt to construct more combs in proportion to the number of bees, than
others; consequently, such combs cannot be properly covered and protected.
The moth has an opportunity to deposit her eggs on them, and, sometimes,
entirely destroy them.

TWO MAY BE UNITED.

Whenever these swarms issue near enough together, it is best to unite them.
I have said second swarms were generally half as large as the first. By this
rule, two second swarms would contain as many bees as a first one, and
four of the third, or one of the second issue, and two of the third, &c. If the
first and second are of the ordinary size, I think it advisable always to return
the third. But in large apiaries it is common for them to issue without any
previous warning, just when a first one is leaving, and crowd themselves
into their company, and seeming to be as much at home as though they were
equally respectable.

Whenever the hives containing our swarms are full or very near it, the
boxes should be put on without delay, unless the season of honey is so
nearly gone as to make it unnecessary.

I have found it an advantage to hive a few of these very small swarms, on
purpose to preserve queens, to supply some old stocks that sometimes lose
their own at the extreme end of the swarming season. The cases to be
mentioned at the last of the next chapter. I try and save one for about every
twenty stocks that have swarmed.

CHAPTER XIV.

LOSS OF QUEENS.

OF SWARMS THAT LOSE THEIR QUEEN.

Swarms that lose their queen the first few hours after being hived, generally
return to the parent stock; with the exception that they sometimes unite with
some other. If much time has elapsed before the loss, they remain, unless
standing on the same bench with another. On a separate stand they continue
their labor, but a large swarm diminishes rapidly, and seldom fills an
ordinary-sized hive. One singular circumstance attends a swarm that is
constructing combs without a queen. I have never seen it noticed by any
one, and may not always be the case, but every instance that has come
under my notice, I have so found it. That is, four-fifths of the combs are
drone-cells; why they thus construct them is another subject for speculation,
from which I will endeavor in this instance to refrain.

A SUGGESTION AND AN ANSWER.

It has been suggested as a profitable speculation, "to hive a large swarm
without a queen, and give them a piece of brood-comb containing eggs, to
rear one, and then as soon as it is matured, deprive them of it, giving them
another piece of comb, and continue it throughout the summer, putting on
boxes for surplus honey. The bees having no young brood to consume any
honey, no time will be lost, or taken to nurse them, and as a consequence
they will be enabled to store large quantities of surplus honey."

This appears very plausible, and to a person without experience somewhat
conclusive. If success depended on some animal whose lease of life was a
little longer, it would answer better to calculate in this way. But as a bee
seldom sees the anniversary of its birthday, and most of them perish the first
few months of their existence, it is bad economy. It will be found that the
largest amount of our surplus honey is obtained from our prolific stocks.
Therefore it is all-important that every swarm and stock has a queen to
repair this constant loss.

A DISPUTED QUESTION.

We now approach another disputed point in natural history, relative to the
queen leaving at any time except when leading out a swarm. Most writers
say that the young queen leaves the hive, and meets her paramour, the
drone, on the wing. Others deny this positively, having watched a whole
summer without seeing her highness leave. Consequently they have arrived
at the very plausible and apparently consistent conclusion, that nature never
intended it to be so, since it must happen at a time when the existence of the
whole family depends entirely on the life of the queen. The stock at such
times contains no eggs or larvæ, from which to rear another, if she should
be lost. "The chances at such times of being devoured by birds, blown away
by the winds, and other casualties, are too many, and it is not probable the
Creator would have so arranged it." But facts are stubborn things; they will
not yield one jot to favor the most "finely-spun hypothesis;" they are most
provokingly obstinate, many times. When man, without the necessary
observation, takes a survey through animated nature, and finds with
scarcely an exception that male and female are about equal in number, he is
ready, and often does conclude that one bee among thousands cannot be the
only one capable of reproduction or depositing eggs. Why, the idea is
preposterous! And yet only a little observation will upset this very
consistent and analogous reasoning. So it appears to be with the excursions
of the young queens. I was compelled, though reluctantly, to admit that they

leave the hive. That their purpose is to meet the drones, I cannot at present
contradict. Also, that, when the queen is once impregnated, it is operative
for life, (yet it is another anomaly), as I never detected her coming out again
for that purpose. What then is the use of the ten thousand drones that never
fulfil this important duty? It seems, indeed, like a useless waste of labor and
honey, for each stock to rear some twelve or fifteen hundred, when perhaps
but one, sometimes not any of the whole number is of any use. If the risk is
great in the queen's leaving, we find it arranged admirably in its not being
too frequent.

A MULTITUDE OF DRONES NEEDED.

Instinct teaches the bee to make the matters left to them as nearly sure as
possible. When they want one queen, they raise half a dozen. If one drone
or only half a dozen were reared, the chances of the queen meeting one in
the air would be very much reduced. But when a thousand are in the air
instead of one, the chances are a thousand times multiplied. If a stock casts
a swarm, there is a young queen to be impregnated, and be got safely back,
or the stock is lost. Every time she leaves, there is a chance of her being
lost, (one in fifteen). If the number of drones was any less than it is, the
queen would have to repeat her excursions in proportion, before successful.
As it is, some have to leave several times. The chances and consequences
are so great, that on the whole no doubt but it is better to rear a thousand
unnecessarily, than to lack one just in time of need. Therefore let us
endeavor to be content with the present arrangement, inasmuch as we could
not better it, and probably had we been consulted, would have so fixed "the
thing, that it would not go at all."

But what is the use of the drones in hives that do not swarm, and do not
intend it, situated in a large room or very large hives? Such circumstances
seldom produce swarms, yet as regular as the return of summer, a brood of
drones appear. What are they for? Suppose the old queen in such hive dies,
leaving eggs or young larvæ, and a young queen is reared to supply her

place. How is she to be impregnated without the drones? Perhaps they are
taught that whenever they can afford it, they should have some on hand to
be ready for an emergency. I have already said when bees are numerous,
and honey abundant, they never fail to provide them. I once put a swarm in
a glass hive. The queen was a cripple, having lost one of her posterior legs;
in two months after she was replaced by one young and perfect. Here was
an instance of drones being needed, when no intention of swarming was
indicated; the hive was but little more than half full.

THE QUEEN LIABLE TO BE LOST IN HER EXCURSIONS.

This excursion of the queen, whenever I have witnessed it, always took
place a little after the middle of the day, when the drones were out in the
greatest numbers. At such times I have seen them leave amid rather more
commotion than usual among the workers. I have watched their return,
which varied from three minutes to half an hour, and seen them hover
around their own hive, apparently in doubt whether they belonged in that,
or the next; in a few instances they have actually settled on the neighboring
hive, and would have there perished, but for my assistance in putting them
right.

THE TIME WHEN IT OCCURS.

Thus we see that queens are lost on these occasions from some cause, and
part of them by entering the wrong hive, perhaps most of them; if so, it is
another good reason for not packing stocks too close. The hives are very
often nearly alike in color and appearance. The queen coming out for the
first time in her life, is no doubt confused by this similarity.

The number of such losses in a season has varied: one year the average was
one in nine, another it was one in thirteen, and another one in twenty. The
time from the first swarm also varies from twelve to twenty days. The

inexperienced reader should not forget that it is the old stocks which have
cast swarms, where these accidents happen; the old queen having left with
the first swarm. Also all after swarms are liable to the same loss. I would
suggest that these have abundant room given between the hives; if it is
necessary to pack close, let it be the first swarms, where the old queen has
no occasion to leave. Having never seen this matter fully discussed, I wish
to be somewhat particular, and flatter myself that I shall be able to direct the
careful apiarian how to save a few stocks and swarms annually, that is, if he
keeps many. A few years ago, I wrote an article for the Albany Cultivator. A
subscriber of that paper told me a year afterwards that he saved two stocks
the next summer by the information; they were worth at least five dollars
each, enough to pay for his paper ten years or more.

When a stock casts but one swarm, the queen having no competitors to
interfere with her movements, will leave in about fourteen days, if the
weather is fair; but should an after swarm leave, the oldest of the young
queens will probably go with that, of course: then, it must be later before
the next is ready: it may be twenty days, or even more; those with after
swarms will vary from one to six. It always must occur when no eggs or
larvæ exist, and no means left to repair this loss; a loss it is, and a serious
one; the bees are in as much trouble as their owner, and a great deal more,
they seeming to understand the consequences, and he, if he knows nothing
of the matter, has no trouble. Should he now, for the first time, learn the
nature of it, he will at the same time understand the remedy.

INDICATIONS OF THE LOSS.

The next morning after a loss of this kind has occurred, and occasionally at
evening, the bees may be seen running about in the greatest consternation,
outside, to and fro on the sides. Some will fly off a short distance and
return; one will run to another, and then to another, still in hopes, no doubt,
of finding their lost sovereign! A neighboring hive close by, on the same
bench, will probably receive a portion, which will seldom resist an

accession under such circumstances. All this will be going on while other
hives are quiet. Towards the middle of the day, this confusion will be less
marked; but the next morning it will be exhibited again, though not so
plainly, and cease after the third, when they become apparently reconciled
to their fate.

They will continue their labors as usual, bringing in pollen and honey. Here
I am obliged to differ with writers who tell us that all labor will now cease.
I hope the reader will not be deceived by supposing that because the bees
are bringing in pollen, that they must have a queen; I can assure you it is not
always the case.

THE RESULT.

The number of bees will gradually decrease, and be all gone by the early
part of winter, leaving a good supply of honey, and an extra quantity of bee-
bread, as before mentioned, because there has been no young brood to
consume it. This is the case when a large family was left at the time of the
loss. When but few bees are left, it is very different; the combs are
unprotected by a covering of bees; the moth deposits her eggs on them, and
the worms soon finish up the whole. Yet the bees from the other stocks will
generally first remove the honey.

AGE OF BEES INDICATED.

Hundreds of bee-keepers lose some of their stocks in this way, and can
assign no reasonable cause. "Why," say they, "there wasn't twenty bees in
the hive; it was all full of honey," or worms, as the case may be. "Only a
short time before, it was full of bees; I got three good swarms from it, and it
always had been first rate, but all at once the bees were gone. I don't
understand it!" Such bee-keepers cannot understand how rapidly a family of
bees diminish, when there is no queen to replenish with young this

mortality of the old ones. I doubt whether the largest and best family
possibly could be made to exist six months, without a queen for their
renewal, except, perhaps, through the winter.

When standing close on one bench, they are gone sooner than if on separate
stands, as they often join a neighboring hive when they can walk to it.

NECESSITY OF CARE.

As this tumult cannot be seen but a few days at most, it is well—yes, it is
necessary—to make it a duty to glance at the hives at this period after
swarming, every morning; a glance is sufficient to tell you of the fact.
Remember to reckon from the date of the first issue; this occurs when the
first royal cells are sealed over, and is the best criterion as to when the
queen will leave. If the first swarm issue and return, it can make no
difference; reckon from their first issuing.

REMEDY.

When you discover a loss, first ascertain if there is any after swarm to be
expected from another stock, (by listening for the piping); if so, wait till it
issues, and obtain a queen from that for your stock; even if there is but one,
take it, and let the bees return; they would be likely to come out again the
next day; if not, it is very often no great loss.

Should no such swarm be indicated, go to a stock that has cast a first swarm
within a week; smoke it and turn it over, as before directed, find a royal
cell, and with a broad knife cut it out, being careful not to injure it. This
must now be secured in the other hive in its natural position, the lower end
free from any obstacle, that would interfere with the queen leaving it. It will
make but little difference whether at the top or bottom, providing it is
secure from falling.

I generally introduce it through a hole in the top, taking care to find one that
will allow the cell to pass down between two combs. It being largest at the
upper end, the combs each side will sustain it, and leave the lower end free.
In a few hours the bees will secure it permanently to the combs with wax.
This operation cannot be performed in a chamber hive, as it is impossible to
see the arrangement of the combs through the holes. To put it in at the
bottom is some more trouble; the difficulty is, to fasten it, and prevent it
resting on the end. I have done it as follows: Get an old thick piece of dry
comb some three inches square; cut out an inch of the middle. At right
angles with this, in one edge in the centre, make another to intersect it, just
the size of the cell, and have the lower end reach into the opening. This
comb will keep it in the right position, and may rest on the floor-board. It
can now be put in the hive, cutting out a piece of comb to make room for it
if necessary.

Soon after such cell is introduced, the bees are quiet. In a few days it
hatches, and they have a queen as perfect as if it had been one of their own
rearing. This queen of course will be necessitated to leave the hive, and will
be just as liable to be lost, but no more so than others, and must be watched
the same. It is unnecessary to look for a cell in a stock that has cast its first
swarm more than a week before, as they are generally destroyed by that
time, (sometimes short of it,) unless they intend to send out an after swarm.

MARK THE DATE OF SWARMS ON THE HIVE.

Should you have so many stocks that you cannot remember the date of each
swarm without difficulty, it is a good plan to mark the date on one side or
corner of the hive, as it issues. You can then tell at once where to look for a
cell when wanted.

It will sometimes happen that a queen may be lost at the extreme end of the
swarming season, when no other stock contains such cells. I then look
around for the poorest stock or swarm that I have on hand, one that I can

afford to sacrifice, if it possesses a queen, to save the one that has sustained
this loss; this is not often the case, but is sometimes. I have a few times put
just bees enough with the queen to keep her in a box, and kept them for this
purpose, as was mentioned in the last chapter. When introduced, the bees
are generally killed, but the queen is preserved.

OBTAINING A QUEEN FROM WORKER BROOD.

There is yet another method to be adopted, and that is, to obtain a piece of
brood-comb containing workers' eggs, or larvæ very young. You will
generally find it without much trouble, in a young swarm that is making
combs; the lower ends usually contain eggs; take a piece from one of the
middle sheets, two or three inches long, (you will probably use smoke by
this time without telling). Invert the hive that is to receive it, put the piece
edgewise between the combs, if you can spread them apart enough for the
purpose; they will hold it there, and then there will be ample room to make
the cells. They will nearly always rear several queens. I have counted nine
several times, which were all they had room for. But yet I have very little
confidence in such queens, they are almost certain to be lost.

THEY ARE POOR DEPENDENCE.

Therefore I would recommend getting a royal cell whenever it is practical.
There is yet another advantage; you will have a queen ready to lay eggs two
or three weeks earlier, than when they are compelled to commence with the
egg. I have put such piece of brood-comb in a small glass box on the top of
the hive instead of the bottom, because it was less trouble, but in this case
the eggs were all removed in a short time; whether a queen was reared in
the hive or not I cannot say; but this I know, I never obtained a prolific
queen, after repeated experiments in this way.

It would appear that I have been more unfortunate with queens reared in
this way, than most experimenters. I have no difficulty to get them formed
to all appearance perfect, but lose them afterwards. Now whether this arose
from some lack of physical development, by taking grubs too far advanced
to make a perfect change, or whether they were reared so late in the season,
that most of the drones were destroyed, and the queen to meet one had to
repeat her excursions till lost, I am yet unable to fully determine. To test the
first of these questions, I have a few times removed all the larvæ from the
comb; leaving nothing but eggs, that all the food given them might be
"royal pap," from the commencement, and had no better success so far. Yet
occasionally prolific queens have been reared when I could account for
their origin in no other way but from worker eggs. But you will find they
are not to be depended upon generally.

Sometimes, after all our endeavors, a stock or two will remain destitute of a
queen. These, if they escape the worms, will generally store honey enough
in this section to winter a good family. This will have to be introduced, of
course, from another hive, containing a queen; but this belongs to Fall
management.

As respects the time that elapses from the impregnation of the queen till the
commencement of egg laying, I cannot tell, but guess it might be about two
or three days. I have driven out the bees twenty-one days after the first
swarm, when no second swarm had issued—the young queen came out on
the fourteenth day. I found eggs and some very young larvæ. When it is
remembered that eggs remain three days before they hatch, it shows that the
first of these must have been deposited some four or five days. When
writers tell us the exact time to an hour (46 or 48) from impregnation to
laying, I am willing to admit the thing in this case, but feel just as if I would
like to ask how they managed to find out the fact; by what sign they knew
when a queen returned from an excursion, whether she had been successful
or not, in her amours; or, whether another effort would have to be made;
and then, how they managed to know exactly when the first egg was laid.

Occasionally a queen is lost at other than the swarming season, averaging
about one in forty. It is most frequent in spring; at least it is generally
discovered then. The queen may die in the winter, and the bees not give us
any indications till they come out in spring. (Occasionally they may all
desert the hive, and join another.) If we expect to ascertain when a queen is
lost at this season, we must notice them just before dark on the first warm
days—because the mornings are apt to be too cool for any bees to be
outside—any unusual stir, or commotion, similar to what has been
described, shows the loss. This is the worst time in the year to provide the
remedy, unless there should happen to be some very poor stock containing a
queen, that we might lose any way—then it might be advisable to sacrifice
it to save the other, especially if the last contained all the requisites of a
good stock except a queen. Some eight or ten, that I have managed in this
way, have given me full satisfaction. I have at other times let them go till
the swarming season, and then procured a queen, or introduced a small
swarm; at which time they are so reduced as to be worth but little, even
when not affected by the worms. To obviate this loss in this way, it might be
an advantage to transfer the bees to the next stock, if it was not too full
already; or the bees of the next stock to this. Let the age and condition of
the combs, quantity of stores, &c., decide.

CHAPTER XV.

ARTIFICIAL SWARMS.

PRINCIPLES SHOULD BE UNDERSTOOD.

Artificial swarms can be made with safety at the proper season. To the bee-
keeper who wishes to increase his stocks, it will be an advantage to
understand some of the principles. I have had some little experience that has
led to different conclusions from those of some others. I have seen it stated,
and found the assertion repeated by nearly every writer, that "whenever
bees were deprived of their queen, if they only possessed eggs or young
larvæ, they would not fail to rear another," &c. There are numerous
instances of their doing this, but it is not to be depended upon, especially
when left in a hive full of combs, as the following experiments tend to
prove.

SOME EXPERIMENTS.

Several years since I had a few stocks well supplied with bees, and every
indication of swarming present, such as clustering out, &c., but they
pertinaciously adhered to the old stock, through the whole swarming
season! Others apparently not as well supplied with bees threw off swarms.
I had but few stocks, and was very anxious to increase the number; but
these were provokingly indifferent to my wishes. Taking the assertions of
these authors for facts, I reasoned thus: In all probability there are eggs
enough in each of those stocks. Why not drive out a portion of the bees,
with the old queen, and leave about as many as if a swarm had issued?

Those left will then raise a queen, and continue the old stock, and I shall
have six instead of the three, that have been so obstinate. Accordingly, I
divided each, examined and found eggs and larvæ. Of course all must be
right. Now, thought I, my stocks can be doubled at least annually. If they do
not swarm, I can drive them.

THE RESULT UNSATISFACTORY.

My swarms prospered, the old stocks seemed industrious, bringing in pollen
in abundance, which to me at that time, was conclusive that they had a
queen, or soon would have. I continued to watch them with much interest,
but somehow, after a few weeks, there did not seem to be quite as many
bees; a few days later, I was quite sure there was not. I examined the combs,
and behold there was not a cell containing a young bee of any age, not even
an egg in any one of these old stocks. My visionary anticipations of future
success speedily retrograded about this time.

I had, it is true, my new swarms in condition to winter, although not quite
full; but the old ones were not, and nothing was gained. I had some honey, a
great deal of bee-bread and old black comb. Had I let them alone, and put
on boxes, I should have probably obtained twenty-five or thirty pounds of
pure honey from each, worth five times as much as what I did get; besides,
the old stocks, even with the old comb, would have been better supplied
with both honey and bees; altogether much better, as stocks for wintering.
Here was a considerable loss, merely by not understanding the matter.

I carefully looked the bees over, and ascertained to a certainty that neither
of them had a queen. I smothered what few there was left in the fall. I then
knew of no better way. I had been told that the barbarous use of fire and
brimstone was part of the "luck;" that a more benevolent system would
cause the bees "to run out," &c.

FURTHER EXPERIMENTS.

Subsequent to these experiments, I thought perhaps the jarring of the hives
in driving might have some effect on the bees, and prevent their rearing a
queen. This idea suggested the dividing hive, when the division could be
made quietly; but success was yet uncertain. I was told to confine the bees
in the old stock twenty-four hours or more, after driving out a swarm; this I
tried, with no better results. Again, I drove out the swarm, looked out the
queen, and returned her to the old stock, compelling the new swarm to raise
one. To be certain they did so, I constructed a small box about four inches
square, by two in thickness; the sides glass. In this I put the piece of brood-
comb containing eggs and larvæ, and then put it on the hive containing the
swarm, having holes for communication, a cover to keep it dark, &c. They
were very sure to rear queens, but from some cause were lost after they
were matured.

Now, if others have been more successful in these experiments than myself,
it indicates that some favorable circumstances attended them that did not
me. I have not the least doubt but the result will be favorable sometimes.
Yet from the foregoing, I became satisfied that not one of these methods
could be relied upon. Instead of constructing a queen's cell, and then
removing the egg or larva to it from another cell, I always found that the
cell containing such egg or larva was changed from the horizontal to the
perpendicular; such cells as were in the way below were cut off, probably
using the material in forming one for royalty, which, when finished,
contains as much material as fifty or a hundred others.

My experiments did not end here. I can now make artificial swarms, and
succeed nine times in ten with the first effort, and the reader can as easily
do the same. It must be in the swarming season, or as soon as the first
regular swarm issues. You want some finished royal cells that any stock
having cast a swarm will furnish, (unless in rare instances, where they are
too far up among the combs to be seen.)

A SUCCESSFUL METHOD.

When you are all ready, take a stock that can spare a swarm; if bees are on
the outside, raise the hive on wedges, and drive them in with a little water,
and disturb them gently with a stick. Now smoke and invert it, setting the
empty hive over. If the two hives are of one size, and have been made by a
workman, there will be no chance for the bees to escape, except the holes in
the side; these you will stop; (no matter about a sheet tied around it.) With a
light hammer or stick, strike the hive a few times lightly, and then let it
remain five minutes. This is very essential, because most of the bees, if
allowed the opportunity, will fill themselves with honey after such
disturbance.

All regular swarms go forth so laden. A supply is necessary when bad
weather follows soon after. It is also used in forming wax, a very necessary
article in a new hive. The amount of honey carried out of a stock by a good
swarm, together with the weight of the bees (which is not much), will vary
from five to eight pounds.

This, allowing time for the bees to fill their sacks, and supplying the old
stock with a royal cell, I believe is entirely original: the importance of
which the reader can judge.

ADVANTAGES OF THIS METHOD.

It is very plain that a queen from such finished cell must be ready to deposit
eggs several days sooner than by any other method that we can adopt. It is
also clear that if we have a dozen queens depositing eggs by the 10th of
June, that our bees are increasing faster, on the whole, than if but half that
number are engaged in it for a month later. There is yet another advantage.
The sooner a young queen can take the place of the old one in maternal
duties, the less time will be lost in breeding, the more bees there will be to
defend the combs from the moth, and the surest guaranty for surplus honey.

When the bees have filled their sacks, proceed to drive them into the upper
hive by striking the lower one rapidly from five to ten minutes. A loud
humming will mark their first movement. When you think half or two-thirds
are out, raise the hive and inspect progress. They are not at all disposed to
sting in this stage of proceeding, even when they escape outside. If full of
honey, they are seldom provoked to resentment. The only care will be not to
crush too many that get between the edges of the hives. The loud buzzing is
no sign of anger. If your swarm is not large enough, continue to drive till it
is. When done, the new hive should be set on the stand of the old one. A few
minutes will decide whether you have the queen with the swarm, as they
remain quiet: otherwise uneasy, and run about, when it will be necessary to
drive again.

If both hives are one color, set the old one two feet in front; but if of
different colors, a little more. I prefer this position to setting the old stock
on one side, even when there is room; yet it can make but little difference.
Should you set it on one side, let the distance be less. When the old stock is
taken much farther than this rule, all the bees that have marked the location
(and all the old ones will have done so) will go back to the old stand, and
none but young bees that have never left home will remain. The same will
be the case with the new swarm if moved off. It will not do to depend on the
old queen keeping them, as she does when they swarm out naturally. This
has been my experience. Try it, reader, and be satisfied, by putting either of
the hives fifteen or twenty feet distant.

Before you turn over the old stock, look among the combs as far as possible
for queens' cells; if any contain eggs or larvæ, you may safely risk their
rearing a queen; but otherwise wait till next morning, or at least twenty-four
hours, then go to a stock that has cast a swarm, and obtain a finished royal
cell, as before directed, and introduce it. You will have a queen here as soon
as if it had been left in the original hive, and no risk of an after swarm,
because there is but one. But when there are young queens in the cells at the
time of driving, after swarms may issue. Should a queen-cell be introduced

immediately, it is more liable to be destroyed than after waiting twenty-four
hours; and then is not always safe. After it has had time to hatch, (which is
about eight days after being sealed), cut it out, and examine it: if the lower
end is open, it indicates that a perfect queen has left it, and all is safe; but if
it is mutilated or open at the side, it is probable that the queen was
destroyed before maturity, in which case, another cell will have to be given
them.

ARTIFICIAL SWARMS ONLY SAFE NEAR THE SWARMING
SEASON.

By what I have said about artificial swarms, it would appear that it is unsafe
at any time but the swarming season; that is my opinion. It may do a little in
advance or a little after, providing royal cells can be had. By feeding as
directed, (in Chapter IX.) you may induce a stock to send out a swarm some
days in advance of the regular season, thereby giving you a chance for these
cells somewhat early.

SOMETIMES HAZARDOUS.

To make such swarms at any time when the bees are destroying drones,
would be extremely hazardous, not only on account of the young queen
being impregnated, but their massacre denotes a scarcity of honey.
Therefore I would advise never to make swarms, or drive out bees at such
periods, when it can be avoided, without spare honey is on hand to feed
them.

SOME OBJECTIONS.

It has been argued by some, and with much reason, that "nature is the best
guide, and it is better to let the bees have their own way about swarming—
if honey is abundant, and the stock is in condition to spare a swarm, their

own instincts will teach them to construct royal cells; if it fails before they
are ready, and the royal brood is destroyed, it is because the existence of the
swarm would be precarious, and it is best not to issue." I will grant that in
many instances it is better. The chance is better for surplus honey; the stock
is quite sure to be in condition to winter; and some judgment is required to
tell when a stock can spare a swarm.

But yet, we are sometimes anxious to increase our stocks to the utmost that
safety will allow, and often have some that can spare a swarm as well as
not, but refuse to leave; perhaps commence preparations, and in a few days
abandon them. Now it is evident that as long as many continue such
preparation, that honey is sufficiently abundant to put the safety of the
swarm beyond hazard; some stocks will swarm while these others just as
good, (that had abandoned it before) and have not now begun again, to be in
time before a partial failure of honey, and some may not have commenced
in season.

NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL SWARMS EQUALLY PROSPEROUS.

I can see no difference in artificial or natural swarms of equal size, at the
same time. By taking the matter in time into our own hands, with the rules
given, we make a sure thing of it, that is, we are sure to get the swarms,
when if left to the bees it would be uncertain, and no greater risk afterwards
than with natural issues.

THIS MATTER TOO OFTEN DELAYED.

I am aware that this matter will be apt to be put off too long; "wait and see
if they don't swarm," will be the motto of too many, and when the season is
over, drive them. Perhaps a good swarm has set outside the hive, all through
the best of the honey season, and done nothing, while they could have half
filled a hive; but this is all lost now, as well as the best chances for getting

cells. Let me impress the necessity of doing it in season, when it will pay. If
you intend to have a swarm from every stock that can spare one, begin
when nature points out the proper time, which is, when the regular ones
begin to issue. It must, indeed, be a poor season when there are none.

IS THE AGE OF THE QUEEN IMPORTANT?

There is another object effected in this way, considered by some apiarians
as very important. It is the change of the queens in the old stock. A young
queen is thought to be "much more prolific than an old one." They even
recommend keeping none "over two or three years old," and give directions
how they may be renewed. But as I have been unable to discover any
difference in relation to the age in this respect, I shall not at present take
much time to discuss it. It is well enough, when we can take our choice
without trouble, to preserve a young queen. When we consider that there are
but few queens but what will deposit three times as many eggs in a season
as are matured, it looks as if it would hardly pay to take much trouble to
change them. At what time the queen becomes barren from old age, I
presume has never yet been fully determined.

A friend of mine has had a stock in a large room eight years, that has never
swarmed, and is still prosperous! I think it very probable that this queen
will gradually decay, and possibly become barren, some weeks before she
dies; if so, this stock will soon die off. A few such cases will probably occur
in swarming hives, perhaps one in fifty, but generally such old and feeble
queens are lost when they leave with the swarm, especially in windy
weather. As long as they are able to go with the swarm, and sometimes
when they are not, I have found them sufficiently prolific for all purposes. I
would rather risk their fecundity, and hive the swarm, than to allow the bees
to return to the parent stock, and wait eight or nine days for a young queen
to mature. A great many will remain idle, even if there is room to work in
the boxes.

CHAPTER XVI.

PRUNING.

Notwithstanding I have given the method of pruning in the chapter on
hives, (page 23, Chapter II.) it will be necessary to give the tyro in bee-
culture a few more particulars. The season for doing it is of importance.

DIFFERENT OPINIONS AS TO TIME.

The month of March has been recommended by several; others prefer April,
August, or September. Here, as usual, I shall have to differ from them all,
preferring still another period, for which I offer my reasons, supposing, of
course, that the reader is conscious of a freeman's privilege, that is, to adopt
whatever method he thinks proper, on this, as on any other point.

ANOTHER TIME PREFERRED.

There is but one period from February till October, when prosperous stocks
are free from young brood in the combs. If combs are taken out when
occupied, there must be a loss of all the young bees they contain; which
may be avoided. The old queen leaves with the first swarm; all the eggs she
leaves in the worker-cells will be matured in about twenty-one days,
consequently this is the time to clear out the old combs with the least waste.
A few drones will be found in the cells, that would require a few days more
to hatch, but these are of no account. Also a few very young larvæ and some
eggs may be sometimes found, the product of the young queen; these few

must be wasted, but as the bees have expended no labor upon them as yet, it
is better to sacrifice these than the greater number left by her mother, which
have consumed their portion of food; the bees have sealed them up, and
now only require the necessary time to mature, to make a valuable addition
to the stock.

SHOULD NOT BE DELAYED.

Should this operation be put off for a time much longer than three weeks,
the young queen will so fill the combs again as to make it a serious loss.
Therefore, I wish to urge strongly attention to this point at the proper
season. If you think it unimportant to mark the date of your first swarms for
the purposes mentioned in another place, it will be found very convenient
here, for those that need pruning.

It is also recommended by some, to take only a part, say one-third or half,
in a season; thereby taking two or three years to renew the combs. This is
advisable only when the family is very small. As this space made by
pruning cannot be filled without wax and labor, our surplus honey will be
proportionate to its extent. Now suppose we take out half the old combs,
and get half a yield of box honey this year, and the same next, or make a
full operation of it and get none this year, and a full one next. What is the
difference? There is none in point of honey, but some in trouble, and that is
in favor of a full operation at once. We have to go through with about the
same trouble to get one-third or half as to take the whole.

OBJECTION TO PRUNING.

The objection to this mode of renewing combs generally, will be the fear of
getting stung. But I can assure you there is but little danger, not as much as
to walk among the hives in a warm day. Only begin right, use the smoke,

and work carefully, without pinching them, and you will escape unhurt
generally.

STOCKS PRUNED NOW ARE BETTER FOR WINTER.

Besides the advantage of saving a large brood by pruning at this season,
such stocks will usually refill before fall, and are much better for wintering,
which is not the case when it is done later. We must of necessity then waste
the brood, and have a large space unoccupied with combs through the
winter. But few combs can then be made, and those few must be at the
expense of their winter stores, unless we resort to feeding.

These objections apply with greater force to pruning in March or April. The
loss of brood is of much more consequence now, than in mid-summer, or
even later, and a space to be filled with combs is a serious disadvantage. It
is important that the bees should devote their whole attention now to rearing
brood, and be ready to cast their swarms as early as possible. One early
swarm is worth two late ones. Suppose a stock, instead of collecting food
and nursing its young, is compelled to expend its honey and labor in
secreting wax and constructing combs before it can proceed with breeding
advantageously, it must of necessity be some weeks later.

Further, I have always found it best to have the bees out of the way, during
this operation. It will be found much more difficult to drive the bees out of a
hive in the cool weather of March or April, than in summer, as they seem
unwilling to shift their warm quarters and go into a cold hive.

It is presumed the reader will bear in mind the disadvantages already given
of too frequently renewing combs; the little value of combs for storing
honey, for our use, after being once used for breeding; the necessity of the
bees using them as long as they possibly will answer; and not compel them
to be filling the hive, when they might be storing honey of the purest quality
in boxes, &c.

Vide remarks on this subject on page 22, Chapter II.

CHAPTER XVII.

DISEASED BROOD.

This, like many other chapters in this work, is probably new, as I, never saw
one thus headed. A few newspaper discussions are about all that have yet
appeared on this subject.

NOT GENERALLY UNDERSTOOD.

This disease is probably of recent origin. Mr. Miner, it appears, knew
nothing of it until he moved from Long Island to Oneida County, in this
State. Mr. Weeks, in a communication to the N.E. Farmer, says, "Since the
potato rot commenced, I have lost one-fourth of my stocks annually, by this
disease;" at the same time adds his fears, that "this race of insects will
become extinct from this cause, if not arrested." (Perhaps I ought to
mention, that he speaks of it as attacking the "chrysalis" instead of the larva;
but as every thing else about it agrees exactly, there is but little, doubt of its
being all one thing.)

MY OWN EXPERIENCE.

My first experience will probably go back to a date beyond many others; it
is almost twenty years since the first case was noticed. I had kept bees but
four or five years when I discovered it in one of my best stocks; in fact, it
was No. 1 in May and first of June. It cast no swarm through the summer;
and now, instead of being crowded with bees, it contained but very few; so
few, that I dared not attempt to winter it. What was the matter? I had then

never dreamed of ascertaining the condition of a stock while there were
bees in the way, but was like the unskilful physician who is obliged to wait
for the death of his patient, that he may dissect and discover the cause. I
accordingly consigned what few bees there were to the "brimstone pit."

DESCRIPTION OF DISEASE.

A "post mortem" examination revealed the following circumstances: Nine-
tenths of the breeding-cells were found to contain young bees in the larva
state, stretched out at full length, sealed over, dead, black, putrid, and
emitting a disagreeable stench. Now here was one link in the chain of cause
and effect. I learned why there was a scarcity of bees in the hive. What
should have constituted their increase, had died in the cells; none of them
were removed, consequently but few cells, where any bees could be
matured, were left.

THE CAUSE UNCERTAIN.

But when I attempted the next link in the chain (to wit) What caused the
death of this brood just at this stage of development? I was obliged to stop.
Not the least satisfaction could be obtained. All inquiries among the bee-
keepers of my acquaintance were met with profound ignorance. They had
"never heard of it!" No work on bees that I consulted ever mentioned it.

Subsequently, I had more stocks in the same situation. I found, whenever
the disease existed to any extent, that the few bees matured were
insufficient to replace those that were lost; that the colony rapidly declined,
and never afterwards cast a swarm!

REMEDIAL EXPERIMENTS.

As for remedies, I tried pruning out all those combs containing brood,
leaving only such as contained honey, and let the bees construct new for
breeding. It was "no use," these new combs were invariably filled with
diseased brood! The only thing effectual was to drive out the bees, into an
empty hive. In this way, when done in season, I generally succeeded in
rearing a healthy stock. But here was a loss of all surplus honey, and a
swarm or two that might have been obtained from a healthy one.

PUBLIC INQUIRY AND ANSWERS.

I had so many cases of the kind, that I became somewhat alarmed, and
made inquiry through the Cultivator, (an agricultural paper,) as to a cause,
and remedy, offering a "reward for one that would not fail when thoroughly
tested," &c. Mr. Weeks, in answer, said, "that cold weather in spring
chilling the brood was the cause." (This was several years prior to his article
in the N.E. Farmer.) Another gentleman said, "dead bees and filth that
accumulated during winter, when suffered to remain in the spring, was the
cause." A few years after, another correspondent appeared in the Cultivator,
giving particulars of his experience, proving very conclusively to himself
and many others, that cold was the cause. Having mislaid the paper
containing his article, I will endeavor to quote correctly from memory. He
had "three swarms issue in one day; the weather during the day changed
from very hot to the other extreme, producing frost in many places the next
morning. These swarms had left but few bees in the old stocks, and the cold
forced them up among the combs for mutual warmth; the brood near the
bottom, thus left without bees to protect it with animal heat, became chilled,
and the consequence was diseased larvæ." He then reasoned thus: "If the
eggs of a fowl, at any time near the end of incubation, become chilled from
any cause, it stops all further development. Bees are developed by
continued heat, on the same principle, and a chill produces the same effect,
&c.; afterwards, other swarms issued under precisely similar circumstances;
but these old stocks were covered with a blanket through the night, which

enabled the bees to keep at the bottom of the hive. In a few days, enough
were hatched to render this trouble unnecessary. These last remained
healthy." He further says, that "last spring was the first time I ever knew
them to become diseased before swarming had thinned the population. The
weather was remarkably pleasant through April. The bees obtained great
quantities of pollen and honey, and by this means extended their brood
further than usual at this season. Subsequent chilly weather in May, caused
the bees to desert a portion of brood, which were destroyed by the chill."

Now this is reasoning from cause to effect very consistently.

ANSWERS NOT SATISFACTORY.

Had I no experience further than this, I should, perhaps, rest satisfied as to
the cause, and should endeavor to apply the remedy. Several other writers
have appeared in different papers, on this subject, and nearly all who assign
a cause have given this one as the most probable. Now I have known the
chrysalis in a few stocks to be chilled and destroyed by a sudden turn of
cold weather, yet these were removed by the bees soon after, and the stocks
remained healthy. To me the cause assigned appears inadequate to produce
all the results with the larvæ. After close, patient observation of fifteen
years, I have never yet been wholly satisfied that any one instance among
my bees, was thus produced.

A CAUSE SUGGESTED.

We are all familiar to some extent with the contagious diseases of the
human family, such as small-pox, whooping-cough, and measles, and their
rapid spread from a given point, &c. We must also admit that some cause or
causes, adequate to the effect, must have produced the first case. To
contagion, then, I would attribute the spread of this disease of our bees, at
least nineteen cases in twenty. I will admit, if you please, that one stock in

twenty or fifty may be somewhat affected by a chill to a small extent. It is
only a portion of the brood that is in danger—only such as have been sealed
over, and before they have progressed to the chrysalis state, are attacked.
How many then can there be in a hive at any one time, in just the right stage
of development to receive the fatal chill? Of course there will be some; but
they should be confined to the cells near the bottom, where the bees had left
them exposed. These should be all; and these few would never seriously
damage the stock. Why then does this disease, when thoroughly started,
spread so rapidly throughout all the combs in the hive? Will it be said that
the chill is repeated every few days through the summer? Or will it be
admitted that something else may continue it?

I think there must be other causes, besides the chill, even to start it, in most
cases. As our practice will be in accordance with the view we take of this
matter, and the result of our course will be somewhat important, I will give
some of the reasons that have led to this conclusion.

REASONS FOR THE OPINION.

For instance, I had all the bees of a good swarm leave the hive in March;
after flying a time, they united with another good stock, making double the
usual number of bees at this season; enough to keep the brood sufficiently
warm at any time; if other stocks with half or a quarter of the number could.
By the middle of June, the bees were much reduced, and had not cast a
swarm. It was examined, and the brood was found badly diseased. My best
and most populous stocks, in spring, are just as liable, and I might add more
so, than smaller or weaker families. I have had two large swarms unite, and
were hived together, that were diseased the next autumn. These cases prove
strongly, if not conclusively, that animal heat is not the only requisite. The
fact that when I had pruned out all affected comb from a diseased stock, and
left honey in the top and outside pieces, and the bees constructed new for
breeding, and the brood in such were invariably affected, though only a few
at first, and increasing as the combs were extended; led me to suppose that

it was a contagious disease, and the virus was contained in the honey. Some
of it had been left in these stocks, and very probably the bees had fed it to
the brood. To test this principle still further, I drove all the bees from such
diseased stocks, strained the honey, and fed it to several young healthy
swarms soon after being hived. When examined a few weeks after, every
one, without an exception, had caught the contagion.

Here then is a clue to the cause of this disease spreading, whether we have
its origin or not. We will now see if we can trace it through, if there is any
consistency in its transfer from one stock to another.

CAUSE OF ITS SPREADING.

Suppose one stock has caught the infection, but a small portion of the brood
is dead. In the heat of the hive, it soon becomes putrid; other cells adjoining
with larvæ of the right age are soon in the same condition. All the breeding
combs in the hive become one putrid mass, with an exception, perhaps, of
one in ten, twenty or a hundred, that may perfect a bee. Thus the increase of
bees is not enough to replace the old ones that are continually dying off. It
is plain, therefore, that this stock must soon dwindle down to a very small
family. Now let a scarcity of honey occur in the fields, this poor stock
cannot be properly guarded, and is easily plundered of its contents by the
others. Honey is taken that is in close proximity to dead bodies, corrupting
by thousands, creating a pestilential vapor, of which it has probably
absorbed a portion. The seeds of destruction are by this means carried into
healthy stocks. In a short time, these in turn fall victims to the scourge; and
soon dwindle away, when some other strong stock is able to carry off their
stores; and only stop, perhaps, at the last stock! The moth is ever ready with
her burden of eggs, which she now without hindrance deposits directly on
the combs. In a short time the worms finish up the whole business, and are
judged guilty of the whole charge; merely because they are found carrying
out effects that speedily follow such causes.

Let the reader who doubts this theory, simply strain out honey, vitiated in
this way, and feed it to a few stocks or swarms, that are healthy; and if they
escape, communicate the fact to the public. But should he become satisfied
that such honey is poison to his bees, he will with me, and all others
interested, wish to stop this growing evil.

NOT EASILY DETECTED AT FIRST.

It is very difficult to detect the first hundred or two that die in a stock. But
when nine-tenths of the breeding cells hold putrid larvæ, there is but very
little trouble in making out a correct diagnosis. The bees are few and
inactive. When passing the hive our olfactories are saluted with a nauseous
effluvia, arising from this corrupting mass. Now, if we wish, or expect to
escape, the most severe penalty, our neglect must never allow this extent of
progression before such a stock is removed. Therefore, we must watch
symptoms—ascertain the presence of the disease at the earliest moment
possible.

SYMPTOMS TO BE OBSERVED.

As no part of the breeding season is exempt, the stocks should be carefully
observed during spring, and fore part of summer, relative to increase of
bees. When one or more is much behind others in this respect, make an
examination immediately. (I would here urge again the convenience of the
simple, common hive, over those more complicated, or suspended, and
difficult to turn over. In one case we might make an examination in season;
in the other, too much trouble and difficulty might cause it to be put off too
long.) The hive must be inverted, and the bees smoked out of the way. Our
attention is to be directed to the breeding cells; with a sharp-pointed knife,
proceed to cut off the ends of some of them that appear to be the oldest;
bearing in mind that young bees are always white, until some time after
they take the chrysalis state. Therefore, if a larva is found of a dark color, it

is dead! Should a dozen such be found, the stock should be condemned at
once, and all the bees driven into an empty hive. (The directions for this
have been given, see page 31.) If honey should be scarce, at the time, they
should be fed.

SCALDING THE HONEY TO DESTROY THE POISON FOR
FEEDING.

The honey from the old hive may be used, if you will only first destroy the
virus. This, I have ascertained, may be done by scalding: add a half-pint of
water to about ten lbs.; stir it well, and heat it to the boiling point, and
carefully remove all the scum.

Stocks in which the disease has not progressed too far, will generally
swarm.

WHEN TO EXAMINE STOCKS THAT HAVE SWARMED.

Three weeks from the first swarm, will be the time to examine them. I make
it a rule to inspect all my stocks at this period. It is easily done now, as
about all the healthy brood (except drones) should be matured in that time.
By perseverance in these rules, I allow no stocks to dwindle away until they
are plundered by others. If all my neighbors were equally careful, this
disease would probably soon disappear. This is like one careless farmer
allowing a noxious weed to mature seeds, to be wafted by winds on the
lands of a careful neighbor, who must fortify his mind to continual
vigilance, or endure the injury of a foul pest. So with the successful
apiarian; in sections where the disease has appeared (it has not in all), he
must be continually on the watch; it is the price of success.

CARE IN SELECTING STOCK HIVES FOR WINTER.

Again, after the breeding season is over, in the fall, every stock should be
thoroughly inspected, and all diseased ones condemned for stock hives. It is
better to do it, even if it should take the last one. It would pay much better
to procure others instead, that are healthy.

Persons wishing to eat the honey from such hives, will experience no bad
effects from it, if they are careful to remove all the dead brood, as they take
it out of the hive.

The greatest distance that I ever knew bees to go, and plunder a defenceless
stock of its contents, was three-fourths of a mile. Very likely they would go
farther on some occasions, but not often.

ACCUSATIONS NOT ALWAYS RIGHT.

Careless bee-keepers, when their hives are thus robbed, feel regret, or are
more often vexed at somebody—at the result of their carelessness. The
person, keeping most bees in a neighborhood, must expect to be
accountable for all effects of their ignorance, mismanagement, or
carelessness, and consequent "bad luck;" when all the honey thus obtained,
probably carries with it more mischief than can be eradicated in a
twelvemonth, thereby giving the real cause of complaint to the other party.

CHAPTER XVIII.

IRRITABILITY OF BEES.

Keeping bees good-natured, offers a pretty fair subject for ridicule: it seems
rather too absurd to teach a bee anything! Nevertheless, it is worth while to
think of it a little. Most of us know that by injudicious training, horses,
cattle, dogs, &c., may be rendered extremely vicious. If there is no
perceptible analogy between these and bees, experience proves that they
may be made ten times more irritable than they naturally would be.

THEIR MEANS OF DEFENCE.

Nature has armed them with means to defend their stores, and provided
them with combativeness sufficient to use them when necessary. This could
not be bettered. If they were powerless to repel an enemy, there are a
thousand lazy depredators, man not excepted, who would prey upon the
fruits of their industry, leaving them to starve. Had it been so arranged, this
industrious insect would probably have long since been extinct.

TIME OF GREATEST IRRITABILITY.

The season of their greatest caution, in this section, is August, during the
flowers of buckwheat. It is then their stores are greatest. As soon as a stock
is pretty well supplied with this world's goods, like some bipeds, they
become very haughty, proud, aristocratic, and insolent. A great many things
are construed into insults, that in their days of adversity would pass
unnoticed; but now it is becoming and proper for their honor to show a "just

resentment." It behooves us, therefore, to ascertain what are considered
insults.

PROPER CONDUCT.

First, all quick motions, such as running, striking, &c., about them, are
noticed. If our movements among them are slow, cautious, humble, and
respectful, we are often let to pass unmolested, having manifested a
becoming deportment. Yet the exhalations from some persons appear very
offensive, as they attack them much sooner than others; though I apprehend
there is not so great a difference as many suppose. Whenever an attack is
made, and a sting follows, the venom thus imparted to the air, if by only
one, is perceived by others at some distance, which will immediately
approach the scene, and more stings are likely to follow than if the first had
not been.

HOW TO PROCEED WHEN ATTACKED.

Striking them down renders them ten times more furious. Not in the least
daunted, they return to the attack. Not the least show of fear is perceived.
Even after losing their sting, they obstinately refuse to desist. It is much the
best way to walk as quietly as possible to the shelter of some bush, or to the
house. They will seldom go inside of the door.

A PERSON'S BREATH OFFENSIVE, AND OTHER CAUSES.

The breath of a person inside the hive, or among them, when clustered
outside, is considered in the tribunals of their insect wisdom as the greatest
indignity. A sudden jar, sometimes made by carelessly turning up the hive,
is another. After being once thoroughly irritated in this way, they remember
it for weeks, and are continually on the alert; the moment the hive is
touched, they are ready to salute a person's face. When slides of tin or zinc

are used to cut off the communication between the hives and boxes, some of
the bees are apt to be crushed or cut in two. This they remember, and
retaliate, as occasion offers; and it may be when quietly walking in the
apiary.

THEIR MANNER OF ATTACK.

I must disagree with any one who says we always have warning before
being stung. I have been stung a few times myself. Two-thirds of them were
received without the least notice—the first intimation was the "blow." At
other times, when fully determined on vengeance, I have had them strike
my hat and remain a moment endeavoring to effect their object. In this case,
I have warning to hold down my face to protect it from the next attempt,
which is quite sure to follow. As they fly horizontally, the face held in that
position is not so liable to be attacked. When they are not so thoroughly
charged with anger, they often approach in merely a threatening attitude,
buzzing around very provokingly for several minutes in close proximity to
our ears and face, apparently to ascertain our intentions. If nothing hostile
or displeasing is perceived, they will generally leave; but should a quick
motion or offensive breath offend them, the dreaded result is almost sure to
follow. Too many people are apt to take these threatening manifestations as
positive intentions to sting. When these things can be quietly endured, and
at the same time leave their vicinity, it generally ends peaceably. They never
make an attack while away from their home in quest of honey, or on their
return, until they have entered the hive. It is only in the hive and its vicinity
that we expect to meet this irascible temperament, which should not be
allowed, or at least may be subdued in a great measure, if not entirely, by
doing things in a quiet manner, and, by the use of tobacco smoke. Any
person having the care of bees should go armed with this powerful weapon.
As bees are not much affected with smoke, while flying in the air, but will
have their own way, we must take them in the hive as the place to teach
them a proper deportment!

Those who are accustomed to smoking will find a pipe or segar very
convenient here. But such as are not would do better, perhaps, not to learn a
bad habit. I will therefore give a simple substitute.

SMOKER DESCRIBED.

Get a tube of tin about five-eighths of an inch diameter, five or six inches in
length; make stoppers of wood to fit both ends, two and a half or three
inches long; with your nail-gimlet make a hole through them lengthwise:
when put together it should be about ten inches. The ends may be tapered.
On one end leave a notch, that it may be held with the teeth, which is the
most convenient way, as you will often want to use both hands: it is also
always ready, without any trouble to blow through, and also to keep the
tobacco burning. When ready to operate, fill the tube with tobacco, ignite it,
and put in the stoppers; by blowing through it you keep the tobacco burning
while the smoke issues at the other end.

EFFECT OF TOBACCO SMOKE.

We can now subdue these combative propensities, or render them harmless;
turn their anger to submission, and make them yield their treasures to the
hands of the spoiler without an effort of resistance! When once
overpowered, they seem to lose all knowledge of their strength, and no
slave can be more submissive! After the effects of the smoke have passed
off, their former animosity will return. Should any resentment be shown on
raising a hive, blow in the smoke; they immediately retreat, "begging
pardon." After a few times, they learn "it's no use," and allow an inspection.
If you wish to take off a box, raise it just enough to blow under the smoke;
there is no trouble; you can replace it with another; the bees are kept out of
the way with a little more smoke, and no anger created about it to be
remembered. Those in the box are all submission; they can be carried away
and handled as you please, without a possibility of getting them irritated,

until they once more get home, and then are much more "amiable" than if
the box had been taken without the smoke. They seem to forget, or do not
realize anything of the transaction. When bees are to be transferred to a new
hive, it is unnecessary to be so very particular about the escape of a single
bee; no fears need be entertained of such as get out. In driving, the loud
humming indicates their submission; the upper hive can then be safely
raised at any time. After being thus driven out, they may be pushed about
with impunity, and still be quiet! In short, by using smoke on all occasions
where they would be likely to be disturbed without it by our meddling with
them, it has a tendency to keep dormant their combative propensities. When
these have never been aroused, there is much less danger from their attacks
while walking or looking among them. Any one wishing further proof, I
would recommend the experiment of managing one year with smoke, and
the next without.

STING DESCRIBED.

Their sting, as it appears to the naked eye, is but a tiny instrument of war;
so small, indeed, that its wound would pass unheeded by all the larger
animals, if it was not for the poison introduced at the same instant. It has
been described as being "composed of three parts, a sheath and two darts.
Both the darts are furnished with small points or barbs like a fishhook," that
hold it when introduced into the flesh; the bee being compelled to leave it
behind.

DOES ITS LOSS PROVE FATAL?

It is said "to the bee itself this mutilation proves fatal." This last is another
assertion for fact, so often repeated, that perhaps we might as well admit it;
seeing the difficulty we should have in disproving it. Only think of the
impossibility of keeping our eye, for five minutes, on a bee that is flying
about, after it has left its sting. Yet there are some persons so very particular

about what they receive as facts, that they would require this very
unreasonable thing of watching a bee till it died, before they could be
positively sure that the loss of its sting caused its death. (It is much easier to
guess.) They might even take analogy, and say that other insects possess so
little sensation that they have been known to recover after much more
extensive mutilation—that beetles have lived for months under
circumstances that would have instantly killed some of the higher animals
—that spiders often reproduce a leg, even lobsters can replace a lost claw,
&c. I have put off describing any protection against their attacks, because I
wish to get up a little more courage in our doings among them. Yet it is
folly to expect all will manage successfully without something for defence.

MEANS OF PROTECTION.

The face and hands are most exposed; for the latter, thick woollen mittens
or gloves are best; the sting is generally left when thrust into a leather
glove. For the face procure one and a half yards of thin muslin or calico,
sew the ends together, the upper end gathered on a string small enough to
prevent it slipping over the head when put on. An arm-hole is to be cut out
on each side; below is another string to gather it close to the body. As I do
not expect you to work in the dark, we will have a place cut out in front,
and a piece of coarse lace inserted; that which will just prevent a bee from
passing, is best, as it gives us a better chance to see. To keep it from falling
against the face, a wire is bent around and sewed fast. Any person that
knows how to put on a shirt will manage this. When thus equipped, and
other garments of proper thickness, the most timid ought not to hesitate to
venture among them, when necessary. I cannot avoid cautioning you again
to beware of irritating your bees, until this protection is necessary, as it is a
rather bad state of things. With this on, you cannot conveniently use any
smoke. To put this on and off is considerable trouble, and every time you go
among them, if you have to resort to this, I fear some necessary duties will
be neglected. Whenever a partial protection will do, I would recommend a

handkerchief; it is always at hand, and can be put on in a moment; throw it
over the head, letting the ends fall around the neck and shoulders, covering
all but the face. The hat can come on over it. As for the face, whenever a
bee comes around in a menacing attitude, hold it down—unless he stings at
the first onset, there is not much risk.

REMEDIES FOR STINGS.

Concerning the remedies for stings, it is a hard matter to tell which is the
best. There is so much difference in the effect in different individuals, and
the different parts of the body, as well as the depth the sting reaches, that a
great variety of remedies are recommended.

A person is slightly stung, and applies something as an antidote; the effect
of the sting is trifling, as perhaps it would have been without anything, and
the medicine is forthwith extolled as a sovereign remedy. I have been thus
deceived; when slightly stung applied what I thought cured in one case,
when in the next the sting might have penetrated deeper, or in some other
place, and the remedy would seem to have no effect. For the last few years,
I have not made any application whatever for myself, and the effect is no
worse, nor even as bad as formerly. (This, I am told, is because the system
is hardened, and now can resist or throw off the effects.) Among the
remedies recommended, are saleratus and water, salt and water, soft-soap
mixed with salt, a raw onion cut in two and one-half applied, mud or clay
mixed pretty wet and changed often, tobacco wet and rubbed thoroughly to
get at the strength, and cold water constantly applied. To cure the smart, the
application of tobacco is strongly urged, and cold water is spoken of with
equal favor to prevent the swelling.

When stung in the throat, drinking often of salt and water is said will
prevent serious consequences.

Whether any of these remedies are applied or not, I suppose it is
unnecessary to say that the sting should be pulled out as soon as practicable.

CHAPTER XIX.

ENEMIES OF BEES.

Among the enemies of bees, there are included rats, mice, birds, toads, and
insects.

ARE THEY ALL GUILTY?

But some of these are probably clear of any actual mischief. I strongly
suspect that the spirit of destructiveness with many people is altogether too
active. There are some farmers, with this principle predominant, so short-
sighted, that if it was in their power they would destroy a whole class of
birds, because some of them had picked a few cherries, or dug out a few
hills of corn, when, at the same time, they are indebted to their activity in
devouring worms, insects, &c., that would otherwise have destroyed entire
crops! It will be well, therefore, before condemnation, to see if on the whole
we are to be gainers or losers by an indiscriminate slaughter, without judge
or jury.

RATS AND MICE.

Rats and mice are never troublesome, except in cold weather. The entrances
of all hives standing out are too small to admit a rat. It is only when in the
house that much damage need be apprehended. They appear to be fond of
honey, and when it is accessible will eat several pounds in a short time.

Mice will often enter the hive when standing on the bench, and make
extensive depredations. Sometimes, after eating a space in the combs, they
will there make their nest. The animal heat created by the bees will make a
snug, warm place for winter quarters. There are two kinds: one the common
class, belonging to the house; the other called "deer-mouse"—the under
side perfectly white, the back much lighter than the other kind. The latter
seems to be particularly fond of the bees, while the first appears to relish the
honey. Whether they take bees that are alive, or only such as are already
dead, I cannot say. Only a part of the bee is eaten; and if we take the
fragments left to judge of the number consumed, the circumstance will go
some ways to prove the sacrifice of quite a number. Whether bees or honey
is wasted, a little care to prevent their depredations is well worthy of
bestowal. As rats and mice have so long since been condemned and
sentenced for being a universal plague, and without a redeeming trait, I will
say nothing in their favor, and am perfectly willing they shall be hanged till
dead.

ARE ALL THE BIRDS GUILTY?

But for some of the birds accused of preying upon bees, I would say a word.

KING-BIRD—ONE WORD IN HIS FAVOR.

The king-bird stands at the head of the list of depredators! With a fair trial
he will be found guilty, though not so heinously criminal as many suppose.
I think we shall find him guilty of taking only the drones. In the afternoon
of a fair day he may be seen perched upon some dry branch of a shrub or
tree near the apiary, watching for his victims, occasionally darting to seize
them. I have shot him down and examined his crop, after seeing him devour
a goodly number; but in every instance the bees were so crushed to pieces,
that it was impossible to distinguish workers from drones. We are told of
great numbers of workers being counted. It may be so, or it may be thus